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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..228bad8 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #68854 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/68854) diff --git a/old/68854-0.txt b/old/68854-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 004ef71..0000000 --- a/old/68854-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7977 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook of Three years of war in East Africa, by -Angus Buchanan - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this eBook. - -Title: Three years of war in East Africa - -Author: Angus Buchanan - -Contributor: Cranworth - -Release Date: August 27, 2022 [eBook #68854] - -Language: English - -Produced by: Peter Becker and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team - at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images - generously made available by The Internet Archive) - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THREE YEARS OF WAR IN EAST -AFRICA *** - - - - - - -THREE YEARS OF WAR IN EAST AFRICA - - _BY THE SAME AUTHOR_ - - WILD LIFE - IN CANADA - - With Illustrations from Photographs - by the Author - - LONDON: JOHN MURRAY - -[Illustration: LUKIGURA RIVER. - -_Frontispiece_] - - - - - THREE YEARS OF WAR - IN EAST AFRICA - - BY CAPT. ANGUS BUCHANAN, M.C. - - WITH MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS - - LONDON - JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET, W. - 1920 - - FIRST EDITION _July 1919_ - _Reprinted_ _January 1920_ - - ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - - - - -FOREWORD - - -Captain Buchanan has done me the honour of asking me to write a short -preface to a work which seems to me at all events of peculiar interest. -To write a preface is a difficult task, unless one has some real _raison -d’être_ for the task; yet I find it difficult to refuse, if only for my -intense admiration for the part played by the battalion with which the -author was so long and honourably associated—the 25th Royal Fusiliers. - -The author’s qualifications to write this work are undoubted, not only -from his stout record as a soldier, but also through his previous -experience as a traveller, explorer, and student of Natural History. When -war broke out Captain Buchanan was engaged on behalf of the Provincial -Government of Saskatchewan, Canada, in investigating the country in the -far north, west of Hudson Bay, and studying and collecting the rarer -flora and fauna. He had been for nearly a year many hundreds of miles out -of touch with any other white man. The first rumour of war did not reach -him until the end of October, when he at once struck south to a Hudson -Bay Fort, which he reached at Christmas. Without delay he left to join -up, and in but a month or two had changed his habitat from almost the -Arctic Circle to the Equator. - -Readers will be able to follow the fortunes of that wonderful unit, -the 25th Royal Fusiliers, through the campaign, and will perhaps gain -thereby an insight into this strangest of all side-shows more true and -illuminating than a more comprehensive work. There was little that -this old Legion of Frontiersmen missed. Comparisons are odious; yet -I think it may safely be said that no other white unit took so full -a part in the diverse stages of the campaign. They bore the long and -arduous months of frontier and railway guarding in 1915. They took no -mean share in the spectacular capture of Bukoba. Their mounted infantry -as well as ordinary rank and file, took part in many of the small but -intensely trying patrols through the thorny scrub along the Serengeti -plains. General Smuts’s operations around Kilimanjaro saw them. Right -to the fore were they in the long and tiring treks, varied by frequent -and fierce rear-guard actions, which took place down the Pangani and -southward through the bush and forests to the capture of Morogoro; and -onwards again right down to the Rufiji. They bore that cruelly hard -period through the rains of 1916, when they held the Mgeta line against a -numerically superior foe, living literally in a swamp for months, riddled -through and through with fever. In January, 1917, when General Smuts made -his final effort to crush the opposition, Colonel Driscoll and his men -were right in the van, and here among others they lost Captain Selous, -that great hunter and greater English gentleman. After a brief period in -the south we find them back in time for the final stages of the campaign. -Here they went in from Lindi to take part in the fighting of 1917, -fighting so bitter that all the previous work was but as child’s play in -comparison. Lest it seem that I exaggerate, let me say that, with a force -of about half the size, the casualties during these last four months were -three times as great as those throughout the whole previous two years. -There was indeed hardly an action in which the battalion did not take -part, until that day on the 18th of October, 1917, when, while covering a -temporary retirement, they were overwhelmed by immensely superior numbers -and cut to pieces. - -The author does not harp overmuch on the sickness and privations of his -comrades—he has been through too many of them to do so; but I am reminded -of the remark of one of them during the not infrequent periods of -grousing which every respectable British soldier must have. “Ah, I wish -to h⸺ I was in France! There one lives like a gentleman and dies like a -man, here one lives like a pig and dies like a dog.” There may have been -something in this remark, yet I have thought as I saw the 25th staggering -on, absolutely in rags, many with fever actually on them, nearly all -emaciated and staring-eyed, that they were living, if not like gentlemen, -at all events like Men. - -There is one point of view that I would like to put before readers in -estimating the debt that those of us _who live_ in Africa owe to these -men—and that is this: when once the coastal belt was reached, and after -the departure of General Smuts and practically all his South African -fighting troops, it became apparent that European infantry, generally -speaking, could no longer compete on even terms with the native soldier. -The handicap of climate became too great. The European could no longer -stand marching under a load, and more than that, the continual fever and -sun sapped the “essential guts,” so that it became _almost_ impossible -for white troops to meet the German-African troops—led, of course, by -trained and well-fed German officers and N.C.O.s—with any fair prospect -of success. Such a fact boded ill for the future prestige of the white -race. Yet it may be said that the Fusiliers soared triumphant even over -this handicap; and they can boast, without fear of contradiction, that -up to the very end no German field company would look with other than -apprehension to meeting the 25th on even terms. I have always felt that -the prowess and endurance of these fine men during these last months have -done more to uphold our prestige and ensure the firm future of our rule -than is likely to be adequately realised. - -An estimate of the campaign as a whole is scarcely yet possible. It will -probably be years before a just view can be taken of a side-show that -is believed to have cost more money and many more lives than the whole -of the South African Campaign. Many mistakes were made, and it is more -than possible that the lion’s share of what credit posterity may have -to bestow will fall on Von Lettow and his comrades. Yet there were many -factors which caused the task which Generals Tighe, Smuts, Hoskins, and -Van Deventer did eventually accomplish, to be of almost unparalleled -difficulty. - -The question asked very often, and one which is likely to be of -interest to posterity, is: How were the Germans able to prolong their -resistance and, in fine, to make such a determined struggle against -our very superior forces? In answer the following points seem to merit -consideration. - -In the first place the enemy had in the person of Colonel Von Lettow -an outstanding personality, and a soldier whose merit it is hard to -over-estimate. It will, moreover, always form one bright spot on the -blackened German escutcheon that in his operations during the campaign, -personally speaking, his conduct was as clean as it was efficient. - -When war broke out the local military position was overwhelmingly in -favour of the Germans. They had ready, at a conservative estimate, -2,000 to 3,000 trained whites and 8,000 native troops, with some 70 -machine-guns and 40 guns. Against this we, on our side, had in British -East Africa about 700 native soldiers and 2 machine-guns, one of which -was out of action, and not more than 100 whites with any military -experience at all. This force might possibly have been duplicated in -Nyasaland. With this early crushing superiority it is obvious that -expansion on the one side was easy—on the other a matter of extraordinary -difficulty. - -In connection with this point it must also be borne in mind that in -British East Africa the natives are for the very large part, not -soldiers, but agriculturists by nature; whereas German East Africa teems -with natives who form as fine material for soldiers as any in the world. -This point is always worth remembering since, because of it, while -Germany held German East Africa, she was a potential menace to the whole -continent. - -Unity of command again was with the Germans to a striking degree. For -on our side was ever command so divided? Our main force working from -East Africa contained troops from almost every portion of the globe, -speaking different tongues, having different habits, eating different -foods, fighting in different ways. From Nyasaland and Rhodesia, General -Northey with his small force brilliantly fought his way into the enemy’s -country, for long not only not under our Commander-in-Chief, but not -even administered by the War Office. From the west our most gallant -Allies the Belgians pushed forward to Tabora, and later worked in direct -co-operation into the very heart of the enemy’s country. On the south -there were the Portuguese. - -The advantages which the Germans had over us in this matter were worth -many thousands of rifles. - -It is certainly undeniable that after the first eighteen months our -combined force largely outnumbered our adversaries. Yet at his strongest -Von Lettow probably mustered 25,000 to 30,000 rifles, all _fighting_ -troops. A not inconsiderable army on the basis that we, on our side, had -to estimate that it took four to five soldiers to get one fighting man -into the firing line. - -It will naturally be assumed that at all events in the matter of -equipment and arms we had the advantage, but until the very latest stages -it may be doubted if this was so. Two incidents will illustrate this. -During the latter part of 1916 a German prisoner, being taken past a spot -where some of our artillery units, which shall be nameless, were parked, -remarked, “the movable armament from the Ark, I should imagine!” And, -indeed, his naval guns, his 42-in. howitzers, and quick-firing mountain -guns were far ahead of anything in our possession. Again, late in 1917, -a German doctor came in to demand back one of his medical panniers -abandoned on the field. We returned it with reluctance, as it was a very -fine set, the latest model in 1914. However, in response to repeated -and urgent indents and “hasteners,” new equipment for our own medical -department was that moment arriving. It was far in advance of anything -we had seen on our side, but was plainly marked 1906. I shall not soon -forget the sneer on that doctor’s face. - -It is true that twice in the campaign the Germans were on short commons -in the matter of small-arm ammunition, in spite of their enormous pre-war -accumulation, but in each case, most unfortunately, a blockade runner -relieved the situation. Later on, unfortunate captures prevented a -shortage which would have appeared inevitable. - -Again, the Germans worked throughout on interior lines and were able, -for the most part, to choose the areas in which their resistance would -be stiffest. Such spots were naturally where they would gain the fullest -advantage from their knowledge of the country, and where the evil climate -would exact the most murderous toll from our white and Indian troops. -These considerations should, I think, be borne in mind by those who feel, -as many must, that the cost in blood and money was altogether in excess -of the results obtained. In any case it is to our credit that having -put hand to the plough we did not turn back. It is for those who in the -future will reap the benefit to see that the worthiest use is made of the -vast country which the efforts of those who have fallen have placed in -our hands. - -The wild animal and bird life encountered throughout the campaign formed -a most distinctive feature. This especially applies to the last stages, -when the fighting in the south-east corner of the Colony was conducted in -territory almost virgin to the naturalist. This applies equally to the -insects both large and small, which in many cases were as unpleasant as -they were intrusive. Captain Buchanan is well qualified to discourse on -these subjects, and his observant notes are most instructive. Let us hope -that some day he may find an opportunity of renewing his researches under -happier circumstances. - -In conclusion of these few remarks let me wish Captain Buchanan the -utmost success in putting his book before the public. If only others read -it with the same interest and enjoyment with which it has filled me, I -can only think that the author’s work will not have been in vain. - - CRANWORTH. - - - - -PREFACE - - -In accomplishing the conquest of German East Africa, many columns were -put in the field. Those had their starting-points from the British East -Africa frontier in the neighbourhood of Kilimanjaro Mountain, from Lake -Victoria Nyanza, from the Belgian Congo, from Rhodesia, and latterly from -the East Africa coast. To cover wide fronts of great extent of country, -the forces from each of those bases advanced in their particular area -in two, three, or more columns. This narrative deals directly with the -operations of a single column, but, as operations throughout the columns -were similar, it may be found, in part, to be generally descriptive of -much that was experienced by all columns. - -On actual operations in German East Africa—not including the operations -on the frontier during 1915, nor the countless distances covered on -patrol—our unit marched some 850 miles with the column, in the following -stages: Kilimanjaro area, 194 miles; to the Central Railway, 335 -miles; Morogoro-Rufiji area, 260 miles; and Lindi area (to date of my -departure), 61 miles. Those distances are not direct to their objective -as the crow flies, for they had often a zigzag course, and sometimes even -doubled back to a fresh starting-point. - -It has been my endeavour to include every detail of experience, and, in -doing so, I trust that at some points I have not laid too much stress on -the hardships of the campaign. They were all in the day’s work, and were -taken as such, no matter how irksome they were. Of them General Smuts, in -a dispatch of 27th October, 1916, said: - - “Their work has been done under tropical conditions which not - only produce bodily weariness and unfitness, but which create - mental languor and depression, and finally appal the stoutest - hearts. To march day by day, and week by week, through the - African jungle or high grass, in which vision is limited to - a few yards, in which danger always lurks near, but seldom - becomes visible, even when experienced, supplies a test to - human nature often, in the long run, beyond the limits of human - endurance.” - -Little reference has been made in the narrative to the number of our -casualties, nor was that possible. A recent casualty statement—at the -end of 1918—records the casualties of the East African Campaign as: 380 -officers killed, 478 officers wounded, 8,724 other ranks killed, 7,276 -other ranks wounded, 38 officers missing (including prisoners), and 929 -other ranks missing (including prisoners) = 896 officers, 16,929 other -ranks. - -This is the only statement of casualties I have seen, and I give -these figures with every reservation, doubting the aggregate and its -completeness. - -They will, however, suffice to show that there is a remarkable percentage -of killed, and this may largely be put down to the closeness of the -fighting, and that at times the attacking forces were advancing on -entrenched positions without protection of any kind to themselves. - - ANGUS BUCHANAN. - - - - -CONTENTS - - - PAGE - - FOREWORD ix - - PREFACE xviii - - CHAPTER - - I. OUTWARD BOUND 1 - - II. FRONTIER LIFE 17 - - III. CATTLE RAIDERS 43 - - IV. THE FIRST ADVANCE 64 - - V. THE SECOND TREK 87 - - VI. THE THIRD STAGE 125 - - VII. THE END OF THE CAMPAIGN ON GERMAN SOIL 173 - - VIII. NATURE NOTES 200 - - IX. HERE AND HEREAFTER 225 - - INDEX 242 - - - - -LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS - - - LUKIGURA RIVER _Frontispiece_ - - FACING PAGE - - KILIMANJARO 34 - - THE NECK AT “GERMAN BRIDGE” 92 - - GERMAN PAPER RUPEE 106 - - NATIVE KRAAL 144 - - A GOOD BAG: 268½ LB. OF IVORY 160 - - TANDAMUTI 188 - - OSTRICHES 202 - - -LIST OF MAPS - - FROM THE FRONTIER TO MOROGORO 86 - - MOROGORO TO RUFIJI RIVER 124 - - LINDI AREA 172 - - - - -THREE YEARS OF WAR IN EAST AFRICA - - - - -CHAPTER I - -OUTWARD BOUND - - -It was raining in London. It had been raining all day, and for many days -previous, and to-night the atmosphere of damp and greyness pervaded the -very soul of the city outdoors. - -[Sidenote: FRONTIERSMEN AT WATERLOO] - -Number Seven platform, at Waterloo Station, was crowded with troops and -baggage, about to depart for service with the B.E.F. in East Africa. They -had arrived at the station at 6 p.m. At 11 p.m. they were still there -grouped about in talkative jollying clusters, apparently indifferent to -the delay in entraining. - -Everyone knows this type of crowd nowadays, but in this case, and as -commonly with men garbed in identical uniform, no one could tell with -any accuracy the remarkable variety of character of the men, or the -extent of their notability. Joe Robson, who was standing apart—a quiet -onlooker—thought: “It is almost a pity that the individual loses his -individuality in the army and becomes a stranger in a strange crowd.” -What would that group of schoolboys say, and the inquisitive idle crowd -in general, if they knew that here in the ranks, beneath the guise of -homogeneous khaki, were gathered many men from all the world over? Men -who had come to fight for their native land from Honolulu, Hong-Kong, -China, Ceylon, Malay States, India, New Zealand, Australia, South and -East Africa, Egypt, South America, Mexico, United States of America, and -Canada? Men from the very outer edges of the world; in Ogilvie’s words: - - Lean men, brown men, men from overseas, - Men from all the outer world; shy and ill at ease. - -Some were men who had taken part in Arctic exploration; others were of -the North-west Mounted Police and of the British South Africa Police; -even a cowpuncher or two from under the flag of the U.S.A. were amongst -this force of frontiersmen. And there were among them: good sorts, bad -sorts, rich sorts, keen sorts, game sorts—all sorts! - -Here also, holding the rank of subalterns, were some famous hunters, -setting out again on adventure. F. C. Selous, the renowned big-game -hunter and naturalist and explorer, was there, and Cherry Kearton, who, -like his brother Richard, “shoots” with his camera and has specialised -in photographing big game in Africa. Then there were George Outram -and Martin Ryan, hailing from divergent corners of our colonies, who -were reputed old hunters who knew, by long association, the vast -hunting-grounds in Africa, as well as you or I, perhaps, know our grouse -moor at home. And, lastly, at the head of all stood Colonel Driscoll, the -leader of “Driscoll’s Scouts” in the South African War. - -Yes, there was a spirit of romance on Number Seven platform on this -evening of April 1915. But, as is often the case with romance, it was -obscure to the ordinary vision of the spectator, and but dully realised, -if realised at all. So, for the most part, those troops remained -commonplace, and passed from London, as thousands of other troops do, out -to an unknown destination under cover of the night. - -It was 2 o’clock next morning when, after long waiting, the train finally -drew out of Waterloo. Between 11 p.m. and 1 a.m., by twos and threes, -friends of the troops had taken their last farewells and departed, taking -sadness with them, and leaving, here and there, a disconsolate soul -behind. - -How many touching, aye, last farewells have been witnessed by the -soulless shed of that vast station since war began! How many brave souls -have laughingly departed never to return!—their one great love their -Home, their Empire’s honour. - -The battalion’s destination—the port of sailing—was unknown, except to -those in command, but in the early dawn of morning it became apparent to -all, as we passed along the borders of Somerset and Dorset and on through -Devon, that we were _en route_ to Plymouth. - -At 10 a.m. we drew up in Plymouth Docks, there to embark on H.M.T.S. -_Neuralia_ (Glasgow). - -The day was spent in embarking the troops and baggage to their allocated -stations on board ship; and in the depth of a pitch-black night, when all -was ready, we cleared the docks and steamed slowly out of Plymouth Sound, -in company with others of a convoy, and commenced our voyage “outward -bound” to Africa. - -[Sidenote: ON BOARD A TROOPSHIP] - -There are times in all men’s lives when they go through experiences -that remain for ever remarkable, either because they are so new and -unexpected, or because they contain so much of pain and hardship. The -men new to travel—and there were a number of them—who embarked on the -good ship _Neuralia_ will remember, to the end of their days, their first -experiences on board a troopship and their first voyage to the tropics; -for it contained, for them, all the hardship of their new life of -soldiering, and all the romance and pleasure of seeing a completely new -and unexpected world. - -Conversation on board ship dealt largely with contrasts. Old pictures -were compared with new and, in most cases, within the mind of the -intelligent individual each fresh experience brought new expression and -wide awakening. Young men who short weeks before, and all their lives, -had enjoyed all the comfort and ease of home life were now feeling the -first rigour of army service. - -Robson, an observant old soldier, heard much of his neighbours’ little -troubles. It was common to hear the warm, soft, white-sheeted bed at home -ruefully recalled by the men, when rolled in coarse grey blankets on the -hard deck, or, chrysalis-like, bound in hammocks slung from the ceiling -in the impure atmosphere below. Also to hear, when men viewed their -portions of bare, often ill-cooked rations, fond recollections of Sunday -dinners at home, or a lucid description of a favourite dish. Personal -comparisons those, which would have in time become odious had they not -usually evoked laughter from some buoyant spirit, and the request to -“Shut up, you old Funeral!” - -It was much the same with everything of this new environment—the men’s -clothes, their boots, their fatigue work (deck-scrubbing, etc.), all -were of a rougher nature than that to which they had been accustomed in -pre-war life. - -The process of securing and ensuring hardihood had begun, and, as time -went on, the men, particularly the good ones, came to see the purpose of -it and, generally, to laugh more than to “grouse” at their difficulties. - -Were they not, after all, starting out on the greatest adventure of -all—the stern pursuit of a perilous quest—and was not a rough life part -of the setting to be expected and contested? - -“Assuredly yes,” thought Robson. “I who am an old traveller know it. -Before you again see England you, who are ‘green hands,’ will have -seen and experienced what ‘roughing it’ really is, and you will be the -stronger men for it; you who live through.” - -While the change of personal surroundings was being discussed and -searching out men’s weaknesses, the _Neuralia_ was proceeding daily on -her way—overjoying the men, in their idle hours, with the new scenes -constantly presenting themselves, and stirring awake excited anticipation -of the adventurous country to which they were going. - -[Sidenote: GIBRALTAR] - -The ship’s course—the war-time course—held south, well west of France and -Spain and outside the Bay of Biscay. The first few days had been dull, -for sea-sickness and strange quarters affect the best of spirits, but by -the time the ship ran into Gibraltar, on the fourth day, everyone was -about deck and cheerful. - -No shore leave was granted at “Gib.,” nor was there any real time for it. -The ship lay off “the Rock” only a few hours—the time required to take -off, from launches, a few troops for Malta and some fresh vegetables. -From the sea the towering Rock looked magnificent—grave, strong-featured, -impressive. From the ship’s side the eye could just discern the houses -around the base of the promontory, clustered like molluscs on a rock, the -white-bright dwellings of the inhabitants rising tier above tier from the -water’s edge to the sheer rock face a little distance inland from shore. -A few light sailing craft were dodging about in the foreground, out on -their habitual occupation of the day, making pleasant pictures when they -swept past with full white sail taut in the breeze. Alongside, a number -of native row-boats, which had raced for the ship from shore as soon as -it anchored, were doing thriving business in cigarettes, cigars, and -tobacco, which gaily dressed Moors, and other low-caste tradesmen, were -disposing of rapidly at their own figures to the improvident Tommies. - -Dear old Gib., so proudly British, to many it was the entrance to the -promised land of adventure, and the portal of farewell to things that are -near and dear to home. - -The ship sailed amid the gay raillery and cheers of Tommies to the -barter-boats, but behind the laughter there lurked, perhaps, a tear, for -this was the final, irrevocable, parting of the ways. - -The good ship was now in the Mediterranean Sea—fast bidding good-bye to -Europe, and with Northern Africa distantly in sight, at times, on our -starboard beam. - -It pleased many on board, at this stage, to get a hint of Africa’s -vastness. Here were they sighting the Continent on the fifth day out -from England, and yet they knew that they must have about twenty days of -travel, hugging her shores, before they could reach their destination on -the East Coast of that same continent. - -This set some of the more enterprising Tommies to establishing a “range -card,” and, after questioning good-natured ship’s officers, they arrived -at the information that our journey from Gib. to Mombasa was one of -roughly some 6,000 miles. - -This “range card” was: - - Miles - Gibraltar to Malta 1,200 - Malta to Port Said 1,125 - Port Said to Aden 1,675 - Aden to Mombasa 1,950 - Total 5,950 - -It was pleasant, now, forging ahead day after day, through sunny seas, -neither storm-disturbed nor storm-delayed. Fair weather and placid -sea, and the mellow wind of a southern spring—indeed we had found the -Mediterranean in gracious mood. And under a clear sky is there another -sea like that of the soft cobalt blue of the Mediterranean? It is not -the commonplace sea, for it has lost all that is grey or blackish, and -lives completely and wholly blue—blue as the overhead April sky; even -more blue, more alluringly attractive. - -[Sidenote: MALTA] - -On the morning of the eighth day the ship worked slowly into the snug but -narrow harbour at Malta, while all along deck deeply interested troops -conversed on the unfolding view of this quaint and foreign port, dressed -for the business of war and bristling with grim fortifications. - -British and French warships lay in harbour, and merchant vessels of all -kinds—suggestive of the great activities of war in this quarter of the -world, for here routes touched to the war zones of Egypt, Gallipoli, -Mesopotamia, India, and Africa. - -Here, as at Gibraltar, the boat hawking tobacco vendors arrived alongside -from shore in their small craft, plying clamorous trade with the -good-natured troops, until the arrival of the coal barges put them to -flight. - -The ship coaled all day and late into night; a process conducted by -swarms of gibbering ill-thriven Maltese natives, meagrely garbed in -ragged loin-cloths, who filed, endlessly, up plank gangways from the -barges to the coal bunkers in the ship’s side, each with his loaded -wicker basket hoisted shoulder high. - -Coaling is a filthy business. Before evening, despite awnings and closed -port-holes, the fine coal-dust had sought its way into every conceivable -corner of the ship, to be roundly abused and accused by a thousand -discomforted Tommies. None were sorry to get it over, and all rejoiced -when, the following morning, the ship hove anchor and took again to the -clean-winded open sea. - -Before departing, at early dawn, it was a strange sight to see row-boats -from shore dredging the shallow harbour, with small bag nets, for the -oddments of coal which had fallen overboard during the process of -coaling—patient labour for a mere pittance of reward that forcibly -suggested the value of fuel to the low-caste natives of the island. - -Fair weather continued, and the next few days were as pleasant and -generous of speed as those preceding our arrival at Malta. A noteworthy -occurrence was the northern-bound migration of bird life which was -encountered on the 19th and 20th of April. Many swallows and doves were -seen and a few yellow wagtails, while a whitethroat and a screech owl -were picked up on deck. At the time most migration was observed the ship -was about in a longitudinal line with the island of Crete. - -On the morning of the twelfth day the ship arrived at Port Said, at -the entrance of the Suez Canal, and anchored for a few hours—not long -enough to go ashore and get any real first impression of the place. But -it marked an important stage in the voyage; and the colonial, somewhat -oriental, appearance of the town on the west shore of the Canal entrance, -close to which the ship had anchored, was predictive of things Egyptian, -and of the weird beauty and strangeness of the Land of Deserts. - -[Sidenote: THROUGH THE SUEZ CANAL] - -Leaving Port Said, the Suez Canal was entered, and slowly the ship -proceeded on her course up the narrow fairway; but not before sand-bags -had been stacked on the bridge for protection from enemy sniping, for we -were now in a theatre of war. - -On entering the Canal, which, between its low banks, is straight and of -apparent width of a city thoroughfare, the first view, at this season, -is of mud flats and shallow sheets of water, like flooded fen country; -colourless of green, except for a few isolated tufts of grass or dwarfed -shrub. - -Soon this changes to the dry level plain of sand desert, endless as far -as eye can see on land, and featureless in geographical outline if one -seeks profile or form. There were many outposts stationed along the -Canal, safeguarding it from Turkish enemy who longed to wreak destruction -on it. And they made picturesque scenes, those outposts on the desert, -with their chalk-white groups of clustered conical tents, standing -prominent in the unbroken desolation of pale wastes of sand. On the -outskirts of camp were a few patient camels and some soldiers—helmeted -British Tommies or turbaned Indians—all sharply outlined in firm -silhouette, since they were darker in colour than the dead flat -background. - -By evening the ship was well up the Canal, and the scene was very -beautiful and impressive then. Far as the eye could see on either side -were deep desolate stretches of limitless desert, unbroken by the -slightest undulation. Overhead, the sky was soft and peculiar; singularly -wistful and hazed and unlike any sky one sees at home, while a brilliant -rainbow, foreboding, perhaps, a light shower of rain, lit up and went out -low on the north-east horizon, away, apparently, at the uttermost edges -of the world, where sand and sky merged almost without any visible line. - -It was strange brooding country, and it infused a vein of solemnity into -the atmosphere, for it held a suggestion that it had something to say, -could it but give utterance, as an unexpressed thought may do which lies -dormant for unknown ages through the long, long life of mankind. - -At daybreak the ship arrived at Port Suez, having completed the passage -through the Canal during the night. Here ammunition was taken on board -before proceeding onward a few hours later. - -Suez was left with regret. Many were sorry to go to sea from a land so -attractively picturesque and so full of indefinite mystery. - -[Sidenote: IN THE RED SEA] - -And in after days it was men’s habit to look back on this one brief -glimpse of Egypt and recall it as the most novel and memorable picture of -the many which unfolded before their eyes on their voyage to Africa. The -fast-moving ship was now sailing the Red Sea, and we were experiencing -that for which it is famed—excessive heat. Damp, cold, and wintry it -had been in England when the troops had sailed, and men had cursed the -weather roundly, as soldiers will, but now, lolling listlessly about -deck, victims of oppressive heat, they would fain have recalled a little -of that northern temperature for the benefit of bodily comfort. However, -the heat brought about one good service, for it caused the “powers that -be” to issue orders for all ranks to hand in their home service kit -to Stores and be supplied with the light tropical khaki drill outfit -customarily worn in hot climates. - -The troops were now settled to the routine of ship-board, and in leisure -hours even the novelties of sea and new scenes became less astonishing -the more they grew familiar with them. - -The days in the Red Sea passed without particular incident. The weather -remained phenomenally fine, and the sea charmingly clear and blue—almost -as blue as that of the Mediterranean. Large numbers of flying fish -were seen soon after leaving Port Suez; the first of their kind to be -observed. With their transparent wings and long bodies they looked like -magnified dragon-flies in their short flights over the water. - -About this time the shortening of the hours of daylight was noticeable. -On the 26th of April dawn was at 5 a.m. and dusk at 6.45 p.m. The North -Pole Star, too, was now low on the horizon, as the ship drew farther and -farther away from the northern hemisphere, and nearer to the Equator. - -On the 17th day land was in sight on both bows. Strange land; of -pronounced geographical change in the formation of the prominent -mountains. They were not generally round and rolling and soft as the -hills at home, but flat-topped, and severe as a cliff-head at their -summit, their steep-rearing slopes terminating abruptly in a definite -horizontal line. The whole was apparently rock and boulder, barren of any -covering of foliage. - -The sight of land was a forewarning of approach to Aden, and late at -night, some hours after dark, anchor was dropped outside the harbour. - -There was little sleep for anyone on board at Aden, unless you had -cast-iron nerves and hearing, for coaling was started almost immediately -the ship anchored, and continued throughout the night. The uproar of a -thousand puny jabbering Lascars, and the run of the coal down the chutes, -made merry music for devils’ ears, but not for sleepless Tommies. - -Next morning, before sailing, Aden was viewed from the ship’s side, but -it was too far to land to glean much. The settlement was at the base of -towering ragged mountains and, judging by the gathering of houses close -to the shore front, it was apparently a small place, and principally a -military station. - -Here, for the first time, numbers of that well-known camp thief, the -Egyptian kite, were seen gathering their food by robbing the defenceless -gulls of the meat scraps that they picked up overboard. - -[Sidenote: NEARING EAST AFRICA] - -At 10.30 a.m. Aden was left behind. It was the final port _en route_, and -the ship steamed down the Gulf against a light headwind on the last lap -of the voyage. She was soon well out to sea, and land was not sighted -again until, six days later, her destination was approached. The third -day out from Aden, in dead calm weather in the Indian Ocean, the best run -of the voyage was recorded—337 miles. - -Otherwise the final days were uneventful, except that there was a good -deal of bustle and confusion in preparation to land. Arms and ammunition -were issued, equipment fitted, and everything got in readiness for -the journey up country to the frontier, which was to be immediately -undertaken on arrival in port. - -On the morning of the 4th of May the battalion landed at -Mombasa—twenty-four days after our departure from Plymouth. - -The bugle sounded _Réveillé_ at 5 a.m.—one hour earlier than usual; and -while all were dressing, low-lying shore came into sight, rich with -abundant tropical tree growth, and green, for it was the rainy season -and leaf was new. A little later the ship anchored in the harbour of -Kilindini, and, in due course, commenced the disembarkation of troops -and stores into barges, and thence to the landings on shore. It was late -evening ere the labours of transportation had ceased and all were landed -and entrained, ready to proceed up country in the narrow, antiquated, -wood-seated carriages of which the train was composed. - -There had been no time for cooking, and everyone was hungry, for the last -meal had been at 12 noon on the previous day. However, some hours after -commencing the train journey, the train was stopped at a small wayside -station about midnight, and hot tea and rations were served to the -famishing troops. In after days all knew much more about going hungry—not -for a day, but for many days—but, looking back now, it was strange that -the very first experience in Africa was one of short rations and lean -“interiors.” - -Thus an imperial unit had come to East Africa; to join Indian and Native -African forces already holding the frontier against the enemy in German -East Africa. - - - - -CHAPTER II - -FRONTIER LIFE - - -Routine in the early days of war, in the camps on the frontier of British -East Africa in 1915, was like unto a watch-dog’s duties. - -The Uganda Railway, running parallel to the boundary from Mombasa, on -the East Coast, to Kisumu, on Lake Victoria Nyanza, had to be vigorously -protected from raiding parties; and a force larger than our own had to be -held at bay until a sufficient army could be sent out to take the field -and the offensive. - -[Sidenote: ENCAMPMENTS AND PATROLS] - -Small encampments, manned with a handful of daring, miscellaneous -soldiers, had sprung into being all along the frontier. - -Every station along the boundary was alert and aware of the presence of -enemy; and frequent were the alarms and skirmishes. - -Amongst thorn “bush,” in dreary landscape of consistent sameness, -those stations were everywhere hidden—a mere gathering of small tents, -within limited enclosures built up of sharp-spiked, tangled, thorn-tree -branches. These enclosures were called “bomas,” and were, against -an enemy surprise, as complete a protection as barbed wire. Water, -always the chief concern of existence in Africa, was usually in the -neighbourhood of those encampments. Sometimes, if the camp was a main -station, water was brought by pipe line from the hills; but most often, -the supply for a small camp was that of the adjacent muddy “water hole.” -They were those stagnant pools of water so often spoken of by travellers -who have written of interior Africa and know her thirst. Those pools of -water—a single pool in a swampy bed or in a barren river bottom—are of -uncertain quality and of uncertain supply. It was usual to place a guard -over such scanty supply, and order a very bare ration to be served to -each individual each day. - -_Patrols_ were the chief concern of those bush encampments. They -were unceasingly active, daily, nightly, moving out into the vague, -half-unmapped country, to cover many miles in quest of enemy patrols or -raiding parties. - -Those patrols seldom covered less than ten miles a day, more often twenty -miles; while occasionally long distances were covered that necessitated a -party being out from three to six days. - -In this manner the frontier was kept fairly clear of enemy; especially -in the neighbourhood of the camps. The grass was tall, and the bush, -in places, very heavy, so that ambush and surprise encounters were not -infrequent. On those occasions casualties were, sometimes, on both -sides heavy; but usually it was the side which laid the ambush which -scored most heavily. To illustrate this: on one occasion, on the 4th of -September, 1915, at Maktau, a party of our M.I. was ambushed and rather -badly cut up by the enemy. The casualties in killed were eleven Europeans -and three Indians. During this encounter a young British officer named -Dartnell won the V.C. for refusing to surrender to the enemy, and -fighting right out to a finish against great odds. Ten days later this -same enemy company was ambushed by our forces and completely routed, -leaving thirty dead Askaris and one German officer on the battle-ground. - -On the whole it was this sort of ding-dong fighting all along, with -the British forces holding the stronger hand. Patrols were constantly -expectant of an engagement of some description, and many became very -expert bushmen as months of this type of fighting went on. - -On the 19th June, 1915, four hundred of our unit found themselves -detraining at Kisumu, on Lake Victoria Nyanza, after a long train -journey which had lasted one day and one night. On the low shore of the -lake edge they camped, near to the wharf and half-roofed freight sheds, -while other detachments came in on the railway and joined the force. -During the day, there were concentrated here, beside us, detachments of -29th Punjabis, King’s African Rifles, Loyal North Lancashires; and 28th -Mountain Battery, with their array of fine looking Sepoys, and sturdy, -well-groomed, well-fed mules. - -By noon on the following day, which was a Sunday, everyone had been -packed on to the small lake steamship craft which lay at the wharf -in readiness, and the expedition sailed thenceforth, out through the -Kavirondo Gulf into the great lake. - -The ships had been filled to their utmost capacity, above deck and below, -and it was a motley crowd that occupied every yard of deck space, while -pack-mules and store cattle stood roped to the ship’s rails on the upper -deck. Forward, each vessel had a gun mounted, and a space roped off and -cleared for action. - -Thus we sailed from Kisumu to raid the town of Bukoba on the 22nd and -23rd June; a prosperous trade town within the German colony, on the -south-west shores of the lake, which was the base of enemy activities -against the Uganda Frontier in the vicinity of the Kagera River, and -which contained a powerful wireless plant, by which the enemy were able -to obtain, and send, important communications. - -All night, and all the next day, we sailed the great lake, Victoria -Nyanza, and we had been some thirty hours on board when, at sundown on -the second day, we drew near to the enemy’s territory and slowed down, -awaiting the fall of darkness. - -[Sidenote: RAID ON LAKE VICTORIA NYANZA] - -It was thought to effect a night landing and make a surprise attack on -the town, and plans were all prepared for this. In this connection three -privates were voluntarily selected for a novel undertaking: it was -arranged that an Australian bushman, a Canadian from the Yukon, and self -(I was then a private) were to go ahead at landing and try to overpower, -and kill if necessary, a certain sentry whose post was known to our -command. But all plans were changed in the end, for, about midnight, when -our lightless phantom ships were drawing in to Bukoba, wakeful watchers -on a high island, that lay out in the bay before the town, detected our -approach in the light of the half-full moon, and five great rockets shot -in warning into the sky. The alarm was out! Soldiers in the town would be -rushing to arms and our landing on the beach would now be in the face of -enemy waiting to receive us. Thus, plans were changed, and the ships drew -away from shore, beyond the vision of the enemy, and stood to, waiting -for dawn. - -When dawn approached we again moved toward land. A force was to threaten -a landing away south of the town, while the main forces drew in behind a -long promontory north of Bukoba Bay. - -Close on dawn our ship dropped anchor and boats were lowered; and, one by -one, they were filled with troops, and left the ship’s side for shore; -while the ship trembled from stem to stern beneath the shock of her -gun-fire, which was now rapidly shelling the heights before us, and the -hidden positions beyond. Beneath the steep hill-face of the promontory -each boat ran aground on the beach, and the troops scrambled overboard -and waded ashore. - -[Sidenote: ATTACKING BUKOBA] - -It was breaking daylight when we began filing up the steep mountain-side, -which was cliff-like in places, and the climb to the top proved a stiff -one, of close on a mile in distance, and very breathless were we when the -summit was reached, while we judged it our great good fortune that this -awkward ground had been covered unopposed by enemy. Advancing across the -summit, south toward Bukoba, some resistance was encountered there in the -banana plantations and forest, but the real fighting did not begin until -we reached the southern slopes and looked out on the town of Bukoba, some -two miles distant, situated on low land that swept back from the shores -of the lake to the foot of the hills, and over the intervening bouldered, -rocky hill country, and on to the commanding heights, above the town, -on the west and south. It was then that serious fighting began, and all -day—while the ships shelled from the lake—we fought in attack against the -enemy, who, to begin with, held out amongst the rocks and clumps of trees -in the broken hills before us, and who, latterly, defended the commanding -hills north-west of the town. - -It was real guerilla warfare. From rock to rock one could see men dodge, -while puffs of smoke puffed in and out from behind scores of rocks, and -from many a tree-clump bottom. The enemy were here using the old ·450 -rifle and black powder and lead bullets, hence the prominence of the -smoke-puffs. On the whole front all was visible, even the enemy’s single -piece of artillery, which was plainly seen in position by the river-side -in the low flat ground north of the town, and which the Mountain Battery -guns in a short time knocked out of action, before turning their -attention to the enemy machine-guns, which were not so easy to deal with. - -In the afternoon we worked down the last of the hill-slopes under -constant fire of our foes, and, toward evening, gathering our tired -limbs under us, a charge was ordered. Across an open meadow we doubled, -cheering lustily; through swamp and river, almost neck-high in water, -and, finally, up the hill-side opposite, and on to the lower hill-top of -the enemy’s coveted position commanding the town; there to lie, panting -breathlessly, picking off the fleeing enemy that we could see dodging -among the rocks in endeavour to reach the higher hill, across a ravine -and to the west of us. - -Meantime the Loyal North Lancashires, who had made a wide flank movement, -were advancing in on the higher hill from the west; and ere darkness set -in we were in full possession of the chief positions. - -Had there been more daylight, it is possible that we should have taken -the town this day, for the enemy were on the run; but darkness overtook -us, and night gave the enemy opportunity to reorganise. - -We camped for the night on the hill, chilled, and blanketless, and -foodless; for no supplies followed us as it was a short undertaking. In -the early part of the night, the force which had made a demonstration to -the south of the town were landed on the beach near to us, and joined our -force. - -At daylight a fighting line was formed across the flats, from the hills -to the lake; and an advance began toward the town in face of steady -rifle and machine-gun fire. The river we had crossed yesterday had swung -southward and ran parallel with the lake, and here again proved an -obstacle, and many of us got thoroughly wet crossing and recrossing it. -Also, in the morning, in the heat of the early fighting, a thunderstorm -burst and heavy rains fell, while we lay in the grass drenched to the -skin for an hour or two, and rifle locks choked with sand and moisture. -For a time firing ceased on both sides; to resume again as it cleared. -Bit by bit, we pushed on across the flat, to be held up for a time before -the entrance to the town; and then, breaking the opposition down, to -enter the town without further resistance on the heels of the fleeing foe. - -[Sidenote: WIRELESS STATION DESTROYED] - -But there we did not stop, for our unit passed on through the town—which -had a beautiful broad main road parallel to the lake front, and many fine -Colonial residences within flower-decked, shaded grounds—and occupied the -high hill-summit on the south, while, in the town, the great power-house -containing the wireless plant, and the fort, and all ammunition and -stores, were blown up and destroyed by our engineers. - -Late in the afternoon we evacuated the hills and came down through banana -plantations on to the road and into the town; there to witness the -impressive burial of our fallen comrades near to the central square. - -At sundown re-embarkation commenced, and at daylight the following day -the ships drew out from Bukoba pier, and lay to, waiting until the -outlying pickets were gathered in. When they put out from shore and were -taken aboard, we steamed away northward to get back within our frontier, -while most men lay down anywhere and slept, for there had been little -rest since we had landed three days ago. - -On the 26th June we were again in Kisumu, and were given a joyous -reception by the natives, who showed extraordinary interest in the affair. - -Three days later we were back in camp—back to the bush, and the routine -of frontier patrols. - -To give some little idea of the ordinary days of life in a frontier -encampment the following notes may serve: - - MAKTAU, _20th Aug., 1915._ - -Fortifying camp, taken over yesterday. All day on trench construction. -Gangs of our fellows working well and cheerfully. Hearty jokes among -themselves constantly brace them against their trying labours in the -excessive heat. - -Patrol attacked near camp this morning by enemy party trying to mine -the railway. One private killed, three wounded. The enemy scattered and -cleared off as soon as the first surprise shots were over. They attacked -from hiding cover in the bush, whence they had viewed the approach of our -patrol down the bare straight line of the single-track railway. - - MAKTAU, _21st Aug., 1915_. - -On trench work all day, same as yesterday. Dust-begrimed and filthy. Hope -for opportunity to wash and change to-morrow. - -Last night an Indian sentry was shot by enemy who crept up to the camp -entrance in the darkness. - - MAKTAU, _22nd Aug., Sunday_. - -Trench work in early morning and again in forenoon; then “knocked off” -all hands for Sunday relaxation. - -Early this morning enemy again on Voi railway near here. This time they -succeeded in laying mines which blew up the line and derailed an incoming -train. Enemy got clear away. - - MAKTAU, _23rd Aug., 1915_. - -Railway line repaired and open to traffic this morning. - -[Sidenote: A WATCHFUL ENCAMPMENT] - -On outpost last night on kopje below Signal Hill. Nothing untoward -occurred, though this picket had been twice attacked lately. Strong S.W. -Monsoon blowing: bitterly cold for sentries on windward front of kopje. -Damp mist driving over the level bush-land below us, obscuring everything -in the early morning. - -Silent dawn, except for the strident cry of guinea-fowl, spur-fowl, -and hornbills; and the lesser “cheepings” of awakening songbirds that -mouse-like stirred amongst the surrounding foliage. - -Picket relieved at 9 a.m. It was dark at 6.15 p.m. and day dawned at 5.30 -a.m. Sunrise three-quarters of an hour later. - - MAKTAU, _28th Aug., 1915_. - -Out on patrol all day over country west of camp. Party, ten whites and -two natives. Uneventful day—no enemy sighted or tracked. - -Three rhinoceros encountered at close quarters; one being a very large -one with splendid forehead horns. All were allowed to go their way -unmolested, since they showed no inclination to charge, and pleasure -shooting was not permissible in enemy country. - - MAKTAU, _3rd Sept., 1915_. - -Out on reconnaissance, to position enemy holding about eight miles west -of our camp. Moving quietly through bush—our party two whites and two -porters. - -On outward journey ran across a rhinoceros, who charged on hearing stick -break underfoot; but he stopped about ten yards short, when he then got -our wind, and cleared off rapidly with a quick turn and snort, apparently -afraid of us. Self and companion, at the sound of the rushing crash of -the charge, had backed behind stoutish trees, with rifles ready, but the -natives, in an incredibly short moment, had squirmed frantically into the -bushes overhead. They were fully frightened, poor wretches—but they were -low-caste porters. - -Observations were made of enemy camp while lying close to position in -evening and early part of night. Later, slept under a tree in the bush. -Night bitterly cold; dozed intermittently, but keeping a wakeful uneasy -eye for the most part. Idly watching the stars when awake. The Southern -Cross set about 9.30 p.m. and the pointers about midnight. - -Saw many eland on return journey, beautiful beasts. In shape and solid -form they are at a distance like Jersey cattle in an English park. Also -saw one lion, three jackals, some herds of Grant’s gazelle, and about a -dozen mongoose. - -[Sidenote: OPERATIONS IN DIFFICULT BUSH] - -On reaching camp heard of M.I. engagement, already mentioned, from which -our men had just returned. On our travels we had almost been over the -ground on which the engagement took place, yet in the maze of bush and -tall grass we had seen nothing. It is very difficult, for those who have -not seen the country, to conceive how terribly possible secretive work -is in this virgin bush-land, where vegetation grows luxuriant and rank in -vast uninhabited areas. It is not the enemy in themselves that are the -difficult foe to conquer; it is the bush that hampers everything, and -hides almost all of the evil planned against us. The unpleasant game, -though it is a game on a much larger scale, is like hunting a snake in -the long grass. And who was ever sure of trapping a snake unless he was -come upon unawares, and a complete ring formed around his chosen cover? -Even then, notwithstanding the great care with which the cordon may close -in, the snake may escape through an unguarded yard of grass, just as a -patrol, or an army, if it has sharp eyes everywhere, may escape, under -cover of the screening bush, through the narrowest of openings and be -gone and hopelessly lost in a single night. - - MAKTAU, _1st Oct., 1915_. - -To-day an aeroplane made an ascent from camp. This is the first flight -made here, and the African natives were spell-bound in amazement at sight -of the wonderful machine and its graceful flying. At once they termed -it “Ndege” (the Swahili for “bird”), and thereafter they always called -aeroplanes by that name. - -’Planes should prove of immense value to us out here now that they have -been landed in the country. The Germans have no machines, and are very -unlikely to succeed in securing any, since they are isolated from the -outer world and the open seas. - - TIETA HILLS, _26th Dec., 1915_. - -After holding the ranks of private, lance-corporal, corporal, and -lance-sergeant, it has been my fortune to receive my commission. I leave -the ranks with regret, for it has, on the whole, been a gay, care-free, -rough-and-tumble experience, and one which teaches that among all types -“a man’s a man for a’ that,” and that there are few who have not their -finer feelings beneath any kind of veneer. - -[Sidenote: NIGHT SCOUTING] - -At 9.30 p.m. moved out to watch railway, at a point five miles from -camp, hoping to catch mine-layers. Dark night; starlit sky, but no moon. -Sentries on outskirts of camp spoken to, and passed. Party wearing -moccasins, boots on hard road or in dry bush very noisy. Alert to catch -the slightest sound, hearing being more important than sight in the -darkness. - -About 11 p.m. held up by rhinoceros moving about on left of road, -breaking undergrowth and branches close ahead. Could not see whether -he meant to charge or not, and there was a moment’s suspense on that -account, but eventually he moved off quietly. Later, at first railway -crossing over road, below a great dark mango tree on the river-side, the -leading scout caught a glint of the small, red glow of a dying fire. We -halted and waited, but no sound was audible, though a man’s breathing -could have almost been heard in the calm stillness. On venturing forward, -a deserted fire, almost out, was found. Whoever lit it had used it and -gone, but they had left a mark that would arouse suspicion. Such signs -of the enemy’s presence were constantly being found. The moon rose at -10.30. Everything clear then, and our forms, moving stealthily along at -wide intervals, showed dark on the dust-white road. Reached point on road -overlooking railway about midnight and lay down in bush, each of the four -comprising the party in turn keeping watch to detect any movement of -enemy. - -Night passed quietly, stirred only by African sounds. Among the high -trees on the river-bank, beyond the railway, monkeys yelled occasionally -and snapped off dry branches as they swung from limb to limb. A solitary -owl hoo-hooed away out in the distant darkness, and once or twice the -weird clatter-ratchet of a hornbill, wakeful in the moonlight, like a -barndoor fowl, broke the stillness. - -Sometimes, too, an animal of prey would betray its presence and its -prowling: the deep blood-curdling howl of the hyena and the dog-like bark -of the jackal at times awoke the silence, for one or two brief moments, -ere, phantom-like, they were swallowed in the dark, fathomless pit of -night, and lost on their onward trail. - -At daybreak, white morning mists came down over the bush-land and -obscured everything; soon they rose again and cleared. - -Back from the roadside, in the bush, we made a small fire and warmed and -cheered ourselves with a hot cup of tea. - -Later we returned pleasantly to camp, having joined in with the railway -patrol, which came out along the line at daybreak some fifty strong. - - NAMANGA, _27th Feb., 1916_. - -[Sidenote: SEARCHING DIFFICULT COUNTRY] - -A small reconnaissance patrol climbed the densely bush-forested slope of -Ol Doinyo Orok mountain to-day. Mountain-sides overcrowded with trees, -cactus, and undergrowth, in tropical uncultivated confusion. Contrary to -the usual in country of this nature, no roller-like game paths of the -ponderous rhinoceros could be found breaking a way to the higher ground. -The ascent was therefore begun up a small river-course, in a delightfully -picturesque ravine down which trickled and murmured a stream of running -water. Progress was made slowly up this water-course, for the way was -continually obstructed by huge granite boulders, and cliff-like falls -which were surmounted only by the aid of a rope. By stiff climbing we -completed about half the ascent, and were then confronted with impassable -cliffs over which scanty water trickled. The patrol then branched off -the course of the stream, and attempted to find easier passage through -the forest above the ravine on the right. This forest, however, proved -desperately difficult to penetrate, compelling us to continual stooping, -and forcing of way, through cruel barriers of jagged, tearing thorn. -Here, too, the ascent was very steep, and, at times, detours had to -be made to avoid an unclimbable cliff face. Defeat was unpalatable; -otherwise we must early on have given up the undertaking. As it was, we -stuck grimly to our task, and finally reached the summit at 4.30 p.m. - -On our ascent on the east bank of the river, a cave had been found which, -by reason of newly cut sticks and an old fire, had evidently been used -by enemy scouts, at the time of our advance into this area, a few days -previously. Otherwise, the mountain held no signs of recent occupation. - -After resting a short time, and exploring the plateau on the summit, -the descent was commenced. All might have gone well, but darkness came -down before we were half-way out of the bush, and then our troubles -really began. It was impossible to see more than a yard before one, and -thorn and boulders and pitfalls played havoc with faces and limbs, as -downward we clambered laboriously in the inky darkness. It was, at one -time, proposed, in despair, to give up, and to camp where we were without -blankets, but at that time some one made the inspired suggestion to use -lighted faggots. This idea was carried into force, and by the aid of -their uncertain light we were able to grapple with, and partly avoid, -the barriers of cruel fanged bush, and at last managed to extricate -ourselves from the deep forest of shapeless, sightless jungle. But not -until the entire patrol was torn and bleeding and sore, and completely, -almost hopelessly, tired out. They were sadder and wiser men who wearily -dragged into camp long after midnight, avowing everlasting denunciation -on African jungle. - -Nevertheless expeditions of this kind were commonplace enough to scouts -who endeavoured to understand almost every landmark on our border that -might harbour the enemy. Sometimes they were fruitless expeditions, -sometimes they were the means of obtaining valuable information. - -[Sidenote: RAINS, SNOWFALL ON KILIMANJARO] - -For the greater part of the year those frontier operations were carried -on in the excessively hot, unchangeable climate of tropical Africa. -Through the intensive heat of the piercing overhead sun, the routine work -went on day after day, and month after month. Not until December was -there change, and then there was a period of heavy torrential rains. But -ere the month was out they had ceased again, and the rich green foliage -of the acacias, which had sprung in a day to life, had begun to fade and -lose their freshness; so soon does the blazing sun dry up the abundant -rainfall, and scorch the very earth. - -[Illustration: KILIMANJARO FROM SOUTH-WEST: 19,700 FEET.] - -Locusts, and their following of storks, are heralds of the Rains, and -near to that season great clouds of them were seen. Remarkable swarms -of locusts were witnessed on the 25th November and 5th December, 1915, -and again on 21st February, 1916. Great clouds of them, darkening the -very sky in their tens of millions, drifted down wind slowly, in a -south-westerly direction, over camp on those dates; and above them, on -the last occasion, high in the sky, followed a very large flight of black -and white storks, sailing along, with the ease of a floating feather, -with wing-still, wind-poised motion, apparently planing on the banking of -the air; and now and then checking their onward flight, to swing slowly -and gracefully in a circle, as if to hesitate and examine the ground far -underneath them. - -At the time of the Rains, too, fresh snow fell on Mount Kilimanjaro, the -highest mountain in Africa, with the elevation of over 19,700 feet. In -1915 the first fresh snowfall was on 25th November, and on the morning of -that day a new white coat of snow mantled the peaks of Kibo and Mawensi, -and well down their slopes. - -A native once told me that if he could climb to the far-off glistening -snows, he would find rupees. And he seemed seriously to believe that the -snows, which glinted silver-like in the sun, were unattainable wealth. - -On the frontier, when not scouting, or on patrol, or on picket, it -sometimes fell to our lot to have a day in camp. - -[Sidenote: ROUTINE IN CAMP] - -In camp, “_Réveillé_” was at 5.30 a.m.—just about daybreak. The able -men then dressed, and, outside their tents, shook out their dust and -insect-ridden blankets, in which they had slept on the bare hard ground. -The lazy, and the seedy, and the really sick men, slept on fitfully -until the last possible moment before the “Fall In,” at 6.30 a.m.; then -reluctantly to turn out in cheerless spirit. - -On early morning parade “the roll” was first called. The sick were then -excused from duty, and the remainder marched off with shovels and picks -and axes to dig trenches and construct overhead shell-shelters, wherever -the fortifications of our encampment required strengthening. - -Such mornings passed quickly, and work went ahead, for, in the cool of -the rising day, the labours were not unpleasant. Most men made light of -their morning’s work, and enjoyed getting up a keen healthy appetite ere -the “Fall Out” for 8 o’clock breakfast. - -Breakfast consisted generally of a measured ration of bread, cheese, and -tea: sometimes bacon replaced the cheese, sometimes jam. - -The second morning parade fell in at 9 a.m., and again the men in camp -were sent on to the fortifications. But now work was carried on in the -heat of the tropic sun, for a soldier’s duties are at any hour of the -day or night, and in any weather, in any hemisphere. They laboured on in -the heat, swearing and joking (I think a soldier will joke, aye, even -in H⸺) and perspiring, and with faces and clothes smothered in the fine -red lava sand, which was raised by the labouring picks and shovels, or -which incessantly wafted down-wind in gusts off the bare compound of -the encampment. But, nevertheless, the work went forward, for it had to -go, and defences became duly more and more impregnable. About noon the -working party fell out for lunch, which consisted of a ration of bread, -jam, and tea. - -Lunch over, the men rested until 4.30 p.m. Some fitfully slept under -stifling hot canvas, others washed clothes down by the trough, or bathed -themselves with water from a bucket, standing naked in the open; while -still others gambled, mildly, over halfpenny nap and threepenny bridge. - -The afternoon parade fell in at 4.30 p.m. and worked as before on -trenches for another hour and a half. It was then time to “Fall Out” for -dinner. - -Dinner consisted _always_ of badly cooked stew, an unchanging dish which -became deadly monotonous, and which, in time, many men could not touch, -their palate revolted so strongly against the unseasoned, uninviting -mixture. - -[Sidenote: SHORT RATIONS] - -I have particularly mentioned food, because, even when rations were -full—and they were often not—our soldiers were nearly always troubled -with that subject throughout the East Africa Campaign. It is wonderful -what men, living outdoors, can subsist on, but, at the same time, I will -never believe that the cut-and-dry army ration, as served in Africa, -is sufficient for men carrying on arduous operations in an intensely -tropical climate. All units experienced a tremendous amount of sickness, -and I am certain, in my own mind—and many others agree with me—that at -least half of the sickness was caused, directly or indirectly, from -lack of full and proper nourishment for a prolonged period. Transport -difficulties, and the greater wars in Europe, no doubt had a strong -guiding influence with the commissariat; and for such, allowances must -be made. I have but little inclination to raise the subject now, for -the roughness of war is always to be expected and borne, but for the -future it is well to write down the harsh experiences of the past so -that others, in like undertakings, may gain an insight into such things, -and prepare for them, or seek to obtain a reconstruction. Food was a big -question in Africa, and, if such a campaign should be called for again in -any far-off country, administrators would do well to give serious thought -to a serious subject that might well in the end save the nation both life -and expenditure. - -On the frontier, men had very few means of adding to their rations. -Parcels from home, in many cases, found them most of the luxuries they -ever enjoyed. Again, at some places a venturous Goanese trader set up -small wood-framed shack-stores, and dispensed to the troops a few odds -and ends in very limited quantities. The chief luxuries (?) which the men -sought I give below, and a comparison in African and English prices: - - Trader’s Price. English Price, - 1915. - _s._ _d._ _s._ _d._ - Tea, per lb. 2 6½ 1 10 - Sugar, per lb. 0 6½ 0 1½ - Butter, per lb. 1 4 1 2 - Milk, condensed 0 11 0 6½ - Worcester Sauce 2 0 0 9 - Soap, per lb. 0 10½ 0 3½ - Cigarettes, “King Stork,” per 10 packet 0 2 — - -On those groceries, or such-like, every penny of a man’s pay was often -spent the day he received it. Whenever the trader received a fresh lot -of goods the news would fly about camp, and, as soon as night-fall came -and liberated the soldiers from duty, he would be besieged by toil-worn -troops hungry for luxuries, and speedily everything in demand would be -sold out. - -In one other way was it sometimes possible to obtain a change of diet: -that was by game shooting. A good many buck, wart-hog, guinea-fowl, and -partridges found their way into camp at one time or other, and furnished -a few fortunate ones with a very welcome addition to the routine fare. - -[Sidenote: GAME HUNTING WITH SELOUS] - -One of the first hunting outings which I experienced was with Capt. W., -Lieut. F. C. Selous, and the “Doc.,” when I accompanied them on a trek to -make a sketch of certain country they were going into. We were at this -time camped in the open upland bush near Kajiado. Mounted on mules we had -travelled overnight to a selected camp. Selous—fine sportsman that he -was—was as keen as ever on a hunt, and the party were merry as sand-boys. - -Next morning all were astir at daylight. Before breakfast some spur-fowl -were shot close to the near-by water-hole, and fried for the meal. -They were delicious eating. After breakfast the mules were saddled and -mounted, and we rode onward. In the forenoon we sighted one lion—which -escaped under cover of a thickly bushed valley—two wart-hog, three -waterbuck, a few hartebeeste and mpala, and many giraffe. Selous had an -unsuccessful shot at an mpala, but, otherwise, the game were allowed to -go unmolested, as all were wild and no exceptionally good heads were -singled out. We made the noon halt in rolling, somewhat open bush country -and haltered the mules, to picket them there. After lunching the party -went in divergent directions on foot. Capt. W. and self proceeded to the -highest hill-crest in the neighbourhood, and I there settled for the -afternoon to pencil a panoramic sketch of the country before me. Capt. -W. then left me. Later I learned he had, on his return tramp to camp, -shot a hartebeeste for meat. But game proved very wary. Selous and the -“Doc.” returned without securing a single head, though they had seen -mpala, eland, giraffe, and a rhinoceros. Masai natives were grazing -many cattle in this area at the time of our visit, and the game were -evidently kept moving and wild by constant disturbance of the cattle and -their cattle-herds. At any rate, as far as game heads, and meat, were -concerned, it was not a successful outing. But it was all very enjoyable -and a holiday from soldiering. To me it was a memorable outing because it -recalls to mind one of my first meetings with Selous. It was the first of -many meetings, for, in after days, we joined in many a successful hunt, -the old hunter and the young attracted together by a mutual enthusiasm -for Nature and the Open Road. - -These, above, are a few notebook entries. It will be seen that a -soldier’s life in 1915 was not without variety and adventure in a theatre -of war of which the outer world, in those days, heard very little. Yet -it was the beginning of a great undertaking which, in its turn, has been -overshadowed, almost overlooked, on account of the gigantic world-war -raging in Europe, and resounding on England’s doorstep. - -Towards the end of 1915 rumours were prevalent that strong South African -forces were to arrive in the country. - -About the same time the Germans, who apparently had information of -our movements, increased their activities on the border from Voi to -Kilindini. Perhaps their biggest effort at interference was when a -strong force of Germans occupied the prominent hill position of Kasigau -and threatened the Uganda Railway from the S.E. of Voi. Obviously, -if they could break on to our only up-country railway and line of -communication, at such a time, they had much to gain. However, in this -they were forestalled. Forces were sent to oppose them in their mountain -stronghold, on the heels of their arrival, and eventually they were -forced to evacuate without accomplishing anything. - -At this period signs were not wanting of the coming of forces. Around the -old camps extensive spaces were cleared of bush in readiness for camping -grounds. Supplies of all kinds arrived daily, by train or by wagon -transport, and were stacked in huge piles in the open. Everywhere, in the -frontier camps, could be seen added activities and increased optimism. - -For two months this sort of thing had been going on, until one fine -day—the 16th of January, 1916—the first large contingent of South African -troops passed through Voi, and detrained at Maktau. The critical period -was over; here was compensation at last for long months of waiting and -watching. - -Daily the arrival of troops, horses, mules, and baggage went on, and -daily our spirits rose at the prospect of the coming advance into the -enemy’s country. - - - - -CHAPTER III - -CATTLE RAIDERS - - - _Note._—The figures in this adventure are fictional: otherwise - the setting and the theme are real. - -Saidi-bin-Mohammed, native of East Africa, had been to the war a year. -When the English had gone to the borders of his country to face the -German enemy, Saidi had followed his white master. - -One day in June, about 5 o’clock—about that time of day most pleasant in -Africa, when the sun is lowering in the west and losing its intensive -piercing heat—Saidi, tall, and straight and athletic, was busied outside -his small grass hut, cleaning his equipment and rifle with the interest -and care of one who had pride in dearly loved possessions. Across the -dry, bleached, much-trampled opening of the encampment, which lay in -the midst of virgin bush-land, appeared the gaunt figure of a British -officer. He stooped, as with age, and his dark, tanned face bore heavy -traces of exposure and hardship, in the deep-lined furrows which covered -his forehead, and in the fine lines that contracted to the corners of -his tired eyes. But, though worn and lean, he had still about him the -bearing of resolute manhood—the bearing of one who is strong to endure -and conquer, even under difficulties and a merciless tropic sun. Clive -Clifford had, in the old days, been a pioneer of unbound frontiers, and a -hunter of big game: to-day he was a famous scout; a man whose knowledge -and whose word carried weight in the highest quarters of command. - -He approached Saidi, who smiled broadly seeing that his master, whom he -held in high regard, came to him. Clifford spoke in the soft, halting -consonants of the Swahili language, and addressed his “boy” in kindly -manner, as a man speaking to a trusted servant. “Saidi,” he said, “get -ready. We go out to-night, you and I, and stay out many days. Eat food -now; and be ready to leave in an hour.” - -[Sidenote: SINGLE-HANDED ADVENTURE] - -Some hours before, half a dozen Masai warriors had run into camp to -report that enemy had stolen many of their cattle, and were driving them -off across the border. Clifford heard the story. He knew the country the -enemy were plundering, and volunteered at once to go in pursuit. It was -an adventure dear to his heart. - -At dusk they quietly left the noisy, troop-filled camp—the master -leading, Saidi following. They were mounted on wiry, donkey-like -Somali mules, animals so small that they appeared disproportionately -overburdened with their load and their well-filled saddle-bags. But in -this they were deceptive. Clifford knew them, from long experience, -to have no equal in animal transport in the country. Tireless little -animals they were, grit to the back-bone, and strong to endure long, -heart-breaking treks. - -Clifford was fully armed, with rifle and cartridge-filled bandolier; as -was his boy. A “slouch” hat, a sleeveless khaki shirt, open at the neck; -and a pair of shorts, leaving the scarred, sun-burned knees bare and -free, was Clifford’s uniform. Undress, but near to coolness and comfort -as possible—and protective in colour, for, when smothered in dust, -as all would soon be, his light drill khaki would be as a tussock of -sun-bleached grass or a hillock of sand, if danger bid him take cover.... - -[Sidenote: NIGHT AND WILDERNESS] - -Some hours later, after making good time in the cool of early night, -the travellers began to work clear of the low thorn-bush, and emerged -into open, somewhat mountainous country. Clifford was travelling west -now, and travelling fast; feeling his way over the country to some -distant prearranged destination. Saidi, the expert guide, was out in -the lead—for no white man has eyes or hearing equal to the black in his -native country. Both travellers were dismounted and led their mules. They -wound their way through tall valley grass, breast high and dust-laden; -over pools of mud, long sun-baked and waterless; then out, finally, on to -rising ground strewn with lava rock and volcanic boulders. It was weird -wilderness country, barren of habitation—virgin and waterless as on the -day of Africa’s dawning. - -The night progressed uneventfully. Nothing suspicious was encountered. -No tracks of the cattle raiders were crossed. The air was breathlessly -still, and it was oppressively hot in the valleys. - -Toward midnight the waning moon drooped lower and lower on the -horizon—and went out. Travelling then became slower and more wary; -occasionally man or mule stumbled over a boulder painfully and noisily in -the breathless darkness. No conversation passed between man and servant. -Tirelessly they padded on, each certain of the other’s knowledge almost -as animals are certain of the bypaths to their lair. For them the night -held little mystery. They were startled not by the grim silhouettes of -zebra, or hartebeeste, when, at a dozen yards, they chanced upon game -herds which galloped off into the night like riderless squadrons. Nor -did the whir of wings and frightened cackle of guinea-fowl, disturbed at -their very feet, more than startle the mules to one brief backward jerk -of their bridle reins. - -Day was dawning when Saidi, who had for some hours been following an -obscure track through the dark with his lynx eyes, gave a grunt of -satisfaction as a gap loomed visible between two dull grey hills in -front. Soon they entered a narrow pass and prepared to make camp in the -hidden cavity between the hills. Here was water, and camp, and the first -halt in the march; for a dry rocky river-bed, cut by the torrents of the -brief rainy season, ran down the pass, and there, in a deep pocket in -the solid rock, worn smooth and circular as a gigantic porridge pot, was -a pool of water, green-slimed and stagnant, it is true, but priceless, -nevertheless, in the sun-parched desert. The mules were off-saddled, -rubbed down, and fed; and picketed under cover of the hill-side—for they -were now in country where the raiders might be encountered, and every -precaution was being taken to lie low and outwit the enemy. - -Saidi busied himself over a small smokeless fire, making tea for his -master, while Clifford lay idly on the ground watching the doves and -grass-finches, which in thousands were endlessly arriving at the -water-hole to drink, fearless of human presence in their haste and need -to quench their thirst. - -“Water far, Saidi,” said Clifford, pointing to the fluttering flock over -the pool. “Birds come long distance to drink here?” - -“Yes, Bwana” (master), answered Saidi. “No other water nearer than one -day.” - -By turns Clifford and Saidi slept and kept watch throughout the day. The -camp was in the foothills of a low range, east of the Guaso Nyero Valley. -Away to the west, out to the Nguruman Mountains, blue in the farthermost -distance, lay the far-reaching Guaso Nyero Valley; and it was on this -great plain, somewhere, that the enemy were raiding the Masai cattle. -Clifford hardly expected to find trace of the enemy until after another -march, when he would be well over the western side of the valley, and -where he knew there was a sluggish stream and an abundance of water—that -physical essential, to man and beast, anywhere in the land. But he was -taking no risks—nothing for granted—for a little mistake meant life or -death to the enterprise, if not to himself. - -So all day long watchful eyes scanned the western plain, but only to be -rewarded with the familiar sight of occasional dust-clouds; sometimes -kicked up by the feet of moving game, such as zebra, hartebeeste, -wildebeeste, or buffalo; and sometimes the sport of a whirlpool gust -of wind which swiftly sweeps the ground, finally to rear a thin spiral -dust-column tapering from the ground to a point high in the sky. - -[Sidenote: MASAI CATTLEMEN] - -Toward sundown three Masai were sighted, worming their way in and out of -the long yellow grass toward the water-hole. They came from the west, and -were travelling hurriedly, perhaps fearfully—for ever and anon the rear -man of the trio would cast a hasty backward glance over his shoulder. -Cunningly, in fear that foe might be at the water, they swung wide of the -pass before approaching, and lay down while one of their number started -to steal forward in the grass to investigate. But a shout from Saidi, -and then an exchange of a reassuring word or two, brought them speedily -to their feet, and into camp. - -Like all of the Masai race, they were strange, red-skinned fellows, those -wandering cattle men of the open uplands; wholly naked but for a loin -cloth, and physical pictures of the aboriginal of the plain. For arms, -they had each a long assegai, and a large mat-laced shield. They were -covered with dust—otherwise, their bearing conveyed nothing untoward. -It would be difficult to guess that beneath those features, cool and -collected, expressionless, almost sullen, there lurked the emotions of -men who had been near to death an hour or two ago. - -After they had all drunk copiously of water, at a little distance from -Clifford, they squatted on the ground with their knees drawn up under -their chins, and told their hurried, broken story. - -In their own language they arrived crudely and directly at essential -facts. - -[Sidenote: GERMAN FREEBOOTERS] - -“Germans, master, many Germans,” said their spokesman, showing, for the -first time, a spark of excitement. “This day, when sun there”—pointing -to the mid-horizon south-east—“our cattle quiet—we cooking food; at -that time he come—one German, two German, three German, on horse—after -him come plenty Askaris [native soldiers] driving many cattle—cattle -footsore, for long way he made go too fast. One German ride among us—he -got small gun, and promise shoot to kill if we try to run away—Askaris -come soon and bind our hands with cord; then one man stay to watch us. -In little while Germans make fire and eat—plenty talk—plenty bottle -[beer]—German pleased. By and by German sleep. By and by Askaris, who -watch us, he sleep too—he plenty tired. Headman, he find stone beneath -him and work cord binding hands against it. Sometime, cord cut—soon, -then, we all free. We crawl in grass, far—afterwards we wait and watch. -When the sun there” (pointing to sun’s position about three hours later) -“German wake—find no boy. Plenty noise—Askari who watch us, he get plenty -beating—afterwards they tie him prisoner—German afraid we run far and -fast and go tell British. Soon German go—driving all cattle—our cattle -too. But other cattle tired, master, he no go quick now; and German near -his own country. He go Shombole and Lake Natron, one day’s trail, after -that, soon he reach big German camp.” - -Clifford was lost in thought—the Masai had ceased talking, and the -youngest of them, a mere lad, had fallen asleep, hunched up awkwardly, -on the bare, hard ground, weary beyond further caring. Saidi, who had -listened attentively to all, moved off and busied himself over a fire and -his master’s evening meal. The customary evening breeze had not arisen, -it was close and oppressively hot, and a subdued spirit lay over the -land. Clifford restlessly stirred the gravel beneath his feet, lost in -his conjectures. He was wide awake and his keen, roving eyes betokened an -intelligent mind stirred to unusual degree. The enterprise had taken on a -serious aspect. Clifford had anticipated, if he were fortunate, he would -run up against a small raiding party of one or two whites and a native -soldier or two. His original difficulty, he thought, would be to track -them, and overtake them. He found himself, instead, pitted against four -whites and some dozen armed Askaris, whom he could head off, on their -southward trail, in a single night’s march. - -The odds were great—too great—but he was too far from his base to call -for reinforcements; he must go on as he was, or return to camp mortified -at having had the enemy within reach while admitting his inability to -strike. - -Clifford rose impatiently to his feet and paced to and fro. - -But slowly a new resolution crept into his face and bearing, and at last -his mind was made up. He called his boy. “Saidi,” he said, “I’m not going -to stop here and go back; I’m going on. I may not fight, for the Germans -are many; but I mean to get as near to the raiders as I can, and, for the -rest, trust to luck and opportunity. You, Saidi, are free to go back if -you please. I cannot order you to run the risks ahead against such odds. -This is my ‘show.’” - -But Saidi was staunch and true. “Where master go, I want to go—me not -afraid,” he said; and indeed he did not look one whit abashed—rather was -there a new-found pride in his bearing. - -The undertaking thus promoted, Clifford, with mind relieved, partook of -the substantial meal which Saidi had prepared. They then saddled the -mules, and were ready again to take up the trail of the raiders. The -exhausted Masai were given some food from Saidi’s saddle-bags and told -to sleep at the water-hole for the night. They were directed to follow -Clifford’s tracks in the morning, and remain at a discreet distance from -the enemy, unless sent for. - -On leaving camp Clifford headed out into the south-west, for it was his -intention to cut across the German line of flight, well in front of them, -and, before daybreak, to hide among the low kopjes east of Lake Natron. -To carry this out he must travel hard all night. Accordingly the pace he -set off at was determined and sustained. Man and beast perspired freely -as they toiled onward; for relentlessly the night breeze held off, and -the still, humid air hung, like the vapours of a hot-house, over the -breathless valley. To add to the discomfort, the trotting mules raised, -from the dust-laden grass, a fine dust which remained suspended in the -air to irritate the nostrils and throats of the travellers, and induce a -quenchless, vexing thirst. However, until midnight Clifford held on his -course unfalteringly. At that hour, just before the moon went down, he -halted to rest and ease the saddle-girths of the tired mules. - -Half an hour later he resumed the journey; but on foot, now that it was -pitch dark, the mules led, and faithful, tireless Saidi out in front -trailing, with his keen eyes, over unseen landmarks, for the low hills -his master had named. - -[Sidenote: ACROSS THE GUASO NYERO VALLEY] - -They were in rough country now—rough with awkward boulders and ragged -lava rocks. Moreover, the travellers were repeatedly confronted with -yawning chasms—deep, dry, tortuous river-beds—which barred their path. -In the inky darkness to surmount these obstacles was difficult and -delaying, and Clifford cursed them roundly while he “barked” his shins in -scrambling up and down banks of unknown depth, forcing his way across in -the wake of Saidi, whose presence he could feel rather than see. - -To add to their difficulties, the mules were restless. They were in fear -of lions, for twice, away northward, the night stillness had vibrated -with the awesome whouh —— whouh —— whouh —— whouh —— whouh —— whouh —— -wwho —— wwho —— wwho —— wwho —— wwho —— wwho of the King of Beasts. The -sound brought terror to the hearts of the mules, and delayed progress. -But, at the same time, it brought a note of good cheer to the party, for -to the experienced ears of Clifford and Saidi the lions’ roar was a good -omen, coming, as it did, from the north-west of their position: for they -guessed that the lions were among the beasts of prey following in the -track of the trekking cattle, ready to drag down and devour the weaker -ones which became too exhausted to go on and were outcast from the herd. -If the surmise was correct, Clifford felt sure he was cutting in well -ahead of the cattle raiders—and only that result could compensate him for -the toil of travelling this ghastly country in the dark. - -About 4 a.m. Clifford, in spite of short halts, was feeling done up -with his exertions in keeping pace with Saidi. Hardened though he was, -he inwardly admitted he was about finished on this trek. He halted and -whistled peculiarly to Saidi, who stopped likewise. Saidi came back -to his master, apparently cool and tireless as ever, and sure of his -untraced road. Clifford asked him how far he thought they were from -the hills. In answer, Saidi pointed into the darkness a little to the -left. “There, master,” he said, “close now—river we cross last, near to -hills—soon we camp.” - -Thus cheered, they started on the final tramp; but Saidi’s hills were -deceptive, his “short distance” stretched out to a good two miles before -the tired party reached their chosen hiding-place. - -[Sidenote: LAKE NATRON AT DAWN] - -At the first inkling of dawn, Clifford moved well into the hills and -secreted the mules in the bottom of a valley thickly grown with cactus. -From there Clifford and Saidi made their way to a spur overlooking the -plain on the west and north. Here they concealed themselves among some -acacia bushes, after they had made sure that, in the event of discovery, -there was a line of retreat down either slope of the spur to thicker -cover—whence their hidden rifles could put up a reasonable defence -against odds, if need be. - -From where he stood in the early morning dawn, Clifford had a wonderful -view of the wild life and of the country. Below him a small herd of -graceful antelope, known as Grant’s gazelle, was browsing quietly in -the immediate foreground of the plain—a plain of dry, buff-coloured -grass which stretched some two miles to the west, to the shores of Lake -Natron. In the intermediate distance was a great herd of unsymmetrical -hartebeeste (buck of size and colour of red deer), and pony-like zebra, -moving along, in ever-changing attitudes, busy on their morning feed, -and lending life and colour to the peaceful scene. Along the shores of -Lake Natron, white soda deposit glistened like silver in the lightening -day, whilst the waters of the lake appeared dyed in pink where countless -flamingoes rested. A mile or two up the valley, at the head of Lake -Natron, and to the east of the swamp of tall green grass which is there, -rugged old Shombole mountain stood prominent with its furrowed surface -of deep ravines and back-bone ridges, the whole overawed by the sheer -cliff face, and the inaccessible plateau at the towering crest, of the -most westerly range. In many places the outer slopes of Shombole were -buff with the dry, yellow grass of the plains, but in the ravines, and -on sheltered slopes, dark-green foliage grew where overcrowded masses of -impenetrable cactus had found root, and an existence, amongst the rocks. - -Meantime there was no sign of the enemy—nothing moved, except droves of -game in this hunter’s paradise. - -Clifford estimated that he was an hour or two ahead of the raiders, and -soon he dozed in the cool of the morning—leaving Saidi on guard. He -trusted the boy completely, for the experience of long months had proved -him always faithful and fearless to serve. Faithful as a wonderful dog -was Saidi, and “greater faith hath no man.” Saidi worshipped his master. - -Some hours passed—Clifford had fallen into profound sleep after his long -night’s exertion, for he was more easily tired now than in the old days -before he knew the impairing ravages of fever. The heightened day found -Saidi still at his post. But he was now tense and alert, and his eyes -were eagerly fixed on a cloud of dust approaching from the north. There -were the raiders! of that he was sure; for he had seen a horseman break -off to the right, clear of the dust, for a moment or two. However, he -would not wake his master yet; the raiders were far out at present, and -the cattle they herded moved very slowly. - -In a short time, however, he espied two horsemen riding forward, at an -easy gallop, clear of the herd. They were probably coming on ahead to -select their noon camp, confident that the plain was uninhabited but by -themselves. Seeing this, Saidi woke Clifford, who was instantly on his -feet, and eager to sight the enemy. - -[Sidenote: DARING] - -Immediately a daring scheme of attack flashed through Clifford’s -mind—the enemy were playing into his hands in separating their forces. -Hastily he lifted his rifle, spoke a few excited words to Saidi, and -started to steal through the grass down to the plain on the west. Once -on the plain they scrambled and crawled, under cover of a dry, shallow -rivulet, seeking to reach the probable line over which the advancing -horsemen would pass. Over a mile they laboured, slowly, awkwardly, until, -scratched, torn, and breathless with their mad haste, they lay still; -near to the place on which the enemy were bearing. - -As Fate would have it, the horsemen bore straight down on them, utterly -unaware of danger. Clifford whispered to Saidi that he was to shoot -the nearest horse at the same time as he (Clifford) fired. With their -rifles in the grass, and with heads low, they watched and waited. Grim -was the expression on their faces now, all outward excitement had gone: -nerves were set, and “steeled” against the coming effort. Suddenly—when -the horses were barely fifteen yards away, Clifford whispered tersely, -“Now!” Simultaneously, both rifles spoke, and all was violent struggle -and confusion on the ground in front. Clifford stood upright and fired -quickly again. Then, harshly, he called out a command in German, while -like a flash his rifle swung to his right and remained aimed at its -object. Unmoved, he ordered Saidi from his hiding-place. Both horses -were down, and the nearest German; the other German had his hands up, -covered by Clifford. Saidi removed the German’s rifle, which lay on the -ground where it had been thrown when the horse, with its rider, fell. -The prisoner was then speedily bound and gagged, so that he could not -warn the others, and concealed in the rivulet ditch. The other German was -dead, and both horses. The horses could not be moved, so, to disguise -them from sight at a distance, the carcases were hastily covered with -prairie grass. - -Meantime the main body of the enemy was approaching, but, luckily, at a -slow pace. The scene enacted had been lost to the other raiders, for a -low rise lay between them and the ground, gently falling to the lake, -where Clifford had ambushed the leaders. The rifle shots they must have -heard, but, as they were not expecting enemy, they would probably think -that their comrades were after game, for meat for their natives, as was -common practice. - -[Sidenote: CLIFFORD STRIKES] - -After making certain that the prisoner was securely bound and concealed, -and unable to move away, Clifford now moved hastily forward; his -intention being to reach the protection of a small knoll about six -hundred yards nearer to the approaching enemy and away from the -condemning signs of catastrophe. But before he got there, dust, over -the rise, warned him and his boy to take cover. So they lay on the open -veldt, in the hay grass, not daring to move to better cover, for, at any -instant now, horsemen, or keen-sighted Askari, might appear in view. -Lying there, Clifford gave his orders to Saidi, who grinned still over -the success of their first attack. “Fire like H⸺, Saidi! at Askaris—make -plenty noise—make him think plenty British here. Make him run!” - -Clifford was confident of the outcome now, and eager for the fray. By an -extraordinary piece of luck the white opposition had been evened up: and -now he had the advantage of surprise, and the consequent target for his -deadly rifle. - -Slowly the raiders appeared in view over the rising ground, and drew -on. Together the Germans scanned the plain ahead, but beyond a word or -two they, apparently, did not trouble about the non-appearance of their -comrades—they thought, no doubt, that theirs was only a momentary -disappearance behind some low ridge in the distance. - -The raiders sat their horses idly, and watched the tired cattle being -herded on; they swore at their Askaris and urged them, time without -number, to lash on the many laggards. Apparently they were weary of their -work, and tired of the trek. - -Clifford and Saidi were waiting breathlessly. The herd was a bit to the -right, but was going to pass them at about fifty yards. Steadily they -drew on. Again the rifles were ready in the grass; again Clifford’s -terse, “now!” was whispered, and startling shots rang out. And then the -scene was like a battle. Shots poured from their hidden haven in the -grass, as fast as they could load and fire, simply to disguise their -strength and frighten the blacks. - -[Sidenote: ROUTING THE RAIDERS] - -Clifford had brought down his first man, but the second white he missed, -as his startled horse plunged and threw the rider. For a time the German -replied vigorously to their fire, but luckily he couldn’t see through -the grass, and no bullet got home. Suddenly he rose and scrambled on to -one of the horses and galloped off. Twice Clifford fired and missed, -but at the third shot the German crumpled up and slid limply from his -mount. Clifford now ran forward, and caught the remaining horse; Saidi -following at his heels. Shots whistled and cracked around them, but -all were wide of the mark; for the Askari is a poor marksman. Into -the blacks rode Clifford, reckless and wild, driving them to panic and -confusion. Two went down with his first shots, the rest, five in number, -leapt from the grass and fled in frantic disorder. One more fell, -sprawling, to Clifford’s marksmanship, and another was winged. But by -that time the remainder had spread and got farther afield, and Clifford -gave up the chase, afraid to get too far away from Saidi, who might be in -difficulties. - -Returning, Clifford found Saidi broadly smiling, as was his wont when -greatly pleased. He had accounted for three Askaris. Clifford praised the -boy—though he seldom gave praise to a native—and told him, now, to make -“plenty big feed” for himself, and then to sleep—the boy had had no rest -since the day before. - -While Saidi busied himself lighting a fire, Clifford counted the cost. - -One German was dead, one wounded. Four Askaris were dead, and three -wounded. After he had gone back and brought the prisoner to camp, -Clifford attended to the wounded. When that gruesome work was finished, -he sought a vantage-point on a rise, and, from there, sent three piercing -whistles out over the plain. - -He was soon rewarded by the sight of natives, showing in the grass, about -a mile to the east. They were the three Masai left behind overnight; and -he signalled to them to come on. - -In a short time the Masai came up. - -Fear was first in their approach, then astonishment, when they sighted -the destruction of the enemy, and Clifford and Saidi in complete -possession of the cattle. Their usually passive faces broke into -broad smiles, they gesticulated excitedly in their exclamations over -the extraordinary scene; and, finally, they came, one by one, before -Clifford, to voice their timid gratitude, and to salaam profoundly, -as vassals to their lord. He was, in their eyes, indeed a mighty and -wonderful white chief. - -A “chit” was written to G.H.Q. asking for a mounted patrol to be sent -out to conduct the cattle back to a safe area, and a Masai runner was -dispatched with it to camp—with instructions, also, to send word to his -tribe to furnish some men to dig graves. - -The remaining Masai counted the cattle. They numbered close on seven -hundred head—a substantial meat ration for the Europeans over the border, -if the raid had succeeded. Clifford directed the Masai to drive the -cattle slowly back to the Guaso Nyero River, and to wait for him at the -bend beyond the northern slopes of Mount Shombole. Before leaving, they -released the hidden mules, and drove them also to water. - -Three days later an officer and a native soldier rode into the British -camp, dust-covered and with clothes torn. Dismounting, the officer left -his mule in the care of the native and passed on to the encampment of -G.H.Q. - -Down the dry dust-thick lanes of the camp stalked the well-known figure -of the famous scout—the lean, the brown, the worn bushman, scarred and -tired with exposure and climate—a thing of the wild world and the silent -places—unassuming, almost shy. But, on a thousand lips the news flew -among the troops that Clive Clifford was back—and glad men came from -their tents to cheer him past. - -And Saidi, unsaddling the mules in the horse lines, hearing the welcome, -smiled in content. - - - - -CHAPTER IV - -THE FIRST ADVANCE - - -The dusty road through dense tropical thorn-bush followed the “lie” of -the mountain, and to approach Longido West you came round the bend from -the west, and swung easterly, to find the camp, an irregular, partly -cleared space in the midst of trees. The camp, with cunning purpose, -was under cover, for it was within the timber line, which hung densely -in colour and form along, and all around, the mountain base. Beyond, -at no great distance to the south and west, the bush terminated, and -open yellow veldt stretched far out to the hill-marked distance where -sheltered the considerable town of Arusha. - -The whole was a wilderness country, neither bush nor veldt held human -creature! All that lived was of nature’s giving! In the forest of -thorns, and by the mountain-fed streamlet which gave the camp sparingly -of priceless water, bird, insect, and plant life, in myriad forms, were -habited in abundance. Beyond the jungle of low-stature trees, the veldt -lay in expressionless vagueness and silence, with but the slow, dark -movement of a small number of ostrich and wildebeeste, and the flight of -a ranging vulture, to attract and hold the wandering eye. - -[Sidenote: GERMAN EAST AFRICA THREATENED] - -And it was here that our forces were congregating, over the German -border, under the south-western continuance of Longido Mountain. We had -been days in coming, and we had come from many places—British, South -African, Indian, and native African—and we knew by the unwonted stir of -traffic that there was “something on.” A day passed, two days, and still -the gathering grew! Troops and transport—ox wagons, mule wagons, and -motors—and the hundred-and-one oddments that accompany a large force, -came into view at the clearing entrance, passed down the road and camped, -and thenceforth became part of us. In time, it came to be the evening of -the second day, and a great stir arose in camp. - -Orders were out: we were to commence the advance to-morrow! Suppressed -excitement was in the air! Down the dust-smothered road, as I passed -to camp, there trooped to water a hurrying continual line of thirsty, -road-tired, sad-visaged horses, mules, and oxen, accompanied by -gesticulating, chattering, khaki-clad attendants. The men were discussing -the news, and the prospect ahead, in many different ways and in different -tongues of English, Dutch, Hindu, and Swahili. It was nigh to the common -hour of peacefulness—that is, _peace_ as near as it is ever realised in -the army—when half-clad, begrimed, talkative soldiers grub and wash up -around the evening camp fires. But to-night there was no peace. Sergeants -were calling out orders on every rustle of the wind, fatigue parties were -falling-in here, there, and everywhere. Final preparations were in full -swing, and—what use to deny it?—fuss and confusion held sway, as if in -devilish glee. Rations, the most vital care of the army, were discussed -and arranged. Kits to go, 25 lb. per man, including his blanket and spare -boots, and surplus kits to be left behind were packed and loaded on -wagons, or stored. Sick men, and men not particularly robust, were sorted -out and detailed for garrison, for commanders realise that only the very -fittest can endure the hardship of a long trek in Africa. Finally all was -arranged and the sleep of night settled on the camp. - -[Sidenote: A FIGHTING COLUMN] - -Next day we were off to the south on a narrow dust-laden track. We were -an infantry column, a column made up of variously dressed soldiers of -different races, a column of various kind and equipment, eloquent of the -brotherhood of colonies. We streamed out in column of route, after scouts -had preceded us by half an hour or so. The 129th Baluchis, olive-hued -Indian soldiers in turbans and loose-kneed trousers, were in advance; -then their maxim battery of gunners and side-burdened, bridle-led -mules. Then came the 29th Punjabis, another regiment of similar kind, -followed closely by some battalions of South African artillery—a bold -array of gun-carriages and ammunition wagons, each drawn by eight span -of sturdy South-American-bred mules, and driven by reckless Cape boys -mounted on the line of near mules. Then followed more infantry, the -25th Royal Fusiliers, of familiar face and colour, of our own kind, but -soiled and sunburnt with long exposure; the 1st King’s African Rifles, -well-trained natives of stalwart appearance, khaki-clad as the rest, but -with distinctive dark-blue puttees and light close-fitting headgear. -And so on, and so on, down the line, except that one might mention the -ammunition column in the rear, a long line of two-wheeled carts, drawn -by two span of patient, slow-gaited oxen. In the rear, trailing far -behind, came the miscellaneous transport—some motors, large four-wheeled -mule-wagons, Scotch carts, and water carts, an assortment of varied, -somewhat gipsy-like kind. The wagons, which were most in evidence, and -which carry from three thousand to four thousand pounds, were drawn by -ten span of mules, or by sixteen to twenty span of oxen, and all were -ordered and driven by capable management of men from South Africa, who -had long experience in trekking in their own country. In all it was -probably a column of a fighting strength of from 4,000 to 5,000 men, with -its necessary large following of accoutrements. - -When the column reached far out into the grass-grown, sandy plain—for it -was open highland here—one could look back, almost as far as the eye -could distinguish, and see the course of the column, as the fine line -of a sinuous thread drawn across the blank space of an incomplete map! -To-day, the map was marked; to-morrow, the thin dust-line would be gone -onward, and the desert veldt would again lie reposed in vagueness. - -Thus did we leave our harbour of safety to venture far into the enemy’s -country on “the long trek”; to travel amidst dust, and dryness, and heat, -for many days. - -It was on a Sunday morning, the 5th of March, 1916, that the advance -began. This column leaving Longido was to operate round the west of -Kilimanjaro and finally converge on Moschi, the terminal of the Usambara -railway—the only railway in the northern area of German territory. The -column was acting in conjunction with large forces operating, also on the -border, away to the east of Kilimanjaro: forces which were largely South -African, and that were opposite the long-standing enemy line defending -Taveta and barring the main thoroughfare into German territory. This -marked the commencement of the offensive campaign under General Smuts—an -offensive that time proved was to last twenty-one months before German -East Africa was to be cleared of the enemy and completely in our hands. - -However, as I have said, one Sunday morning, at the beginning of March, -found us moving out on the big game, eagerly, and with a great gladness -to be “up and doing.” - -[Sidenote: WE ADVANCE FROM THE BORDER] - -The column travelled east along the line of Longido Hill, then struck -south across the flat, sandy plain before us until the shelter of the -Sheep Hills was reached. Here the column was halted under the northern -slopes of the hills, thus making use of the protection which they -afforded from observation from the south—for the south held ever the -danger of the enemy. The column had trekked about eight miles across -trackless country, making a road as they went merely by the commotion and -pressure of wheels and of thousands of feet of troops and their transport -animals. Marching was unpleasant in the soft, powdered dust which lay -ankle-deep underfoot, and was kicked in the air in a hanging cloud to -choke both throat and nostrils, and adhere to every visible part of one’s -clothing. - -Under the Sheep Hills we lay in the heat of the sun, waiting our orders. -At 6.30 p.m. the column moved out on a long night march. A two hours’ -halt was called at midnight, but otherwise we trekked steadily on all -through the night. At midnight, detachments went off on our left flank to -attack at dawn the enemy post on Ngasseni Hill. The enemy were engaged, -but the fight was short-lived, and in due course the hill was occupied by -our troops. The main column encountered no opposition, though opposition -had been expected at the Engare Naniuki water. - -The column camped at 10.30 the following morning at water at Engare -Naniuki. We had travelled all night into the south over a level sandy -plain, covering, roughly, twenty miles. Entrenchments were dug in camp, -and the swamp grass, bordering the water-holes, was burnt. Camp was -unmasked to all eyes, friend or foe, by a continually rising cloud -of fine chalk-like lava sand. Profusion of troops and transport were -everywhere, and made an animated picture while moving here and there on -quest of their unending duties. - -I picked up two young hares (Sungura) in camp, paralysed with fear at -finding themselves surrounded by such overwhelming commotion. Overhead, -many flocks of sand-grouse passed in the morning and evening; apparently -they haunt these plains in their migrations. - -The following morning we moved out at 8 o’clock and made slow progress -during the march. The column skirted the river-course of Engare Naniuki -and passed through open country. A long delay was caused getting the -column across the “drift” at Nagasseni Bridge, when we intercepted the -Aruscha—Engare Nairobi road; the river was, here, about 25 feet wide and -the water swift flowing. The bridge over the river had been destroyed -before our arrival. The column, in the late afternoon, camped, when -across the Engare Naniuki, at Nagasseni. - -[Sidenote: NAGASSENI EVACUATED] - -Nagasseni, which had been hastily evacuated, was a prominent hill with a -small boma and fort on the crest commanding the river and the bridge. -At 2.30 in the morning the camp was stirred afoot, and the column moved -out in the dark an hour later. The travelling was east, then south-east, -through fairly level country commanded by many cone-shaped bare kopjes. -We are still free of bush country. To-day we march through forsaken -desert, sparsely grass-grown, and of a surface nature of metallic lava -crustings. A small party of enemy was engaged, on our left front, about -noon. The enemy fired on our mounted advance scouts from a low kopje -which they occupied. But our scouts had previously sighted the enemy, -and had sent back word to the column. Mountain Battery guns, already -trained on the target, opened fire the instant the enemy showed his hand, -and with deadly shooting put the enemy to flight in no time, followed -by rounds of vicious shrapnel. It proved to be a mere outpost of enemy -reported at thirty-five strong. - -All are beginning to wonder where we are to “bump” the enemy. Is there to -be no resistance offered to an advance from this side of Kilimanjaro? Has -an advance here been thought impossible? Is it completely a surprise? - -Soon after the short moment of excitement, above mentioned, Geraragua -River was reached, and camp was pitched on the north bank. Here our -position was entrenched, and camp for the night prepared. - -Next day we spent in camp while a convoy returned to Engare Nairobi to -assist in bringing forward rations, which were being delayed owing to the -heavy half-broken tracks. Near here, at Kakowasch, an enemy camp, hastily -evacuated, was found among the bush of the Kilimanjaro foothills. This -was set fire to and burned so that the grass huts could not be reoccupied. - -[Sidenote: MOSCHI IN SIGHT] - -The following day the column moved out at noon—our destination said to -be Ngombe, which is across the Aruscha line of the enemy’s retreat from -Moschi, should the eastern forces attack it from the Taveta side. We -travelled until dark through level country, pimpled with numerous pigmy -hills; breaking road through the country as we went. About darkening we -entered bush country, which offered splendid concealment to the enemy, -but they did not put in an appearance. About this time, however, some of -our artillery, who were having difficulty in getting along on the heavy -tracks, were attacked by the enemy in the open, some distance in our -rear. Forward, with the column, the rifle-fire was heard, and the boom of -our thirteen-pounders. Detachments were ordered to retire and reinforce -the rear. Our battalion went back about three miles, but did not go into -action, as the enemy by that time had been beaten off. Again we moved -on in the darkness, and about 3 a.m. rejoined the column. It had been -uncertain, awkward marching, the night was very dark, the track broken, -and heavy with dust. About the time we rejoined the column it began to -rain. A halt was called, and we slept in our tracks, for the remaining -three hours, until daylight—then up and away again. It was bitterly cold -sleeping in the open in the rain, but we were too dog-tired to care. -A number of horses and mules are now dying by the roadside with horse -sickness and tsetse fly. Mosquitoes numerous since entering the bush. -Marched about eighteen miles to-day. - -_Saturday, 11th March._—Just one week since we left Longido. Marched at -2 p.m., heading south through the bush, with Kilimanjaro Mountain on our -left, and Meru Mountain on our right. Towards dusk, on reaching open -country, the column swung easterly and crossed the plain, pursuing a line -parallel with the southern slopes of Kilimanjaro, but well away from the -mountain. The German town of Moschi was sighted away to the north-east, -and eager were the eyes that witnessed it, because there was probably our -objective and the enemy. About dusk, scouts engaged in a short bout of -firing with opposing scouts, but soon the bush was “all clear.” Marched -until 9 p.m. and camped, before Kilimanjaro, on River Sanja. Fires were -observed between us and Moschi, and were thought to be those of the East -African Mounted Rifles, who were reconnoitring nearer in to the mountain -base. Marched about fifteen miles to-day. - -“Stand to” was at 5 o’clock on Sunday morning, but dawn broke -undisturbed. A few shots were fired by our sentries overnight at prowling -scouts. Part of column moved out at 9 a.m.; and returned in evening, -without having been in action. Our present camp is on the Aruscha road, -about five miles from Ngombe. The column is now about sixty miles away -from its starting-point at Longido. - -Marched on Monday for Masai Kraal, hoping there to intercept the enemy’s -retreat from Moschi. Reached Ngombe about 11 a.m. A number of houses were -still inhabited, by Goanese and Greeks, and they had white flags erected -to protect themselves from attack. The small river Kware flowed through -the village. Transport and considerable artillery were left behind here, -while the column continued eastward on the low road or, more properly, -track, to Moschi. The bush is now becoming more luxuriantly tropical -in country that is apparently well watered. Marched until 2 a.m. in -the dark, through rain, and over a track narrow and unused. On camping -everyone was so done up that fires were allowed for warmth, and to make -tea. Few of us could sleep, we were so very wet, and the remainder of -the night was spent cowering over our fires in poor endeavour to keep -some circulation alive in our numbed bodies. Marched about fifteen miles -to-day. - -[Sidenote: THE ENEMY FLEE] - -The following day, in the early morning, our course was changed, and -the column marched direct for Moschi, news having been received that -the town had been evacuated and was occupied by South African forces -from the eastern column. During the march our column forded four rivers -in the course of the day—the Kikafu, the Weruweru, the Kiladera, and -the Garanga. It is slow, patience-trying work transporting animals and -wagons through such river-drifts; not one or two heavily burdened mules, -not one or two wagons, had to be coaxed down steep banks, and across -the ford, and up the opposite bank, but the endless number of an entire -column. However, in the end the last river was passed, and we marched -into Moschi just after dark, a weary and footsore column; both man and -beast thoroughly done up. Torrential rain fell all night, and all were -very thankful for the shelter of the various buildings and barns into -which we were crowded. But even then our sleep was a broken one, lying on -the cold hard floor, or on the ground, without blanket covering. For the -past three days we have been without our kits or blankets, only our bare -rations having been transported with us in our haste onwards. - -Moschi—which is the Swahili for “smoke,” and which aptly refers to the -mists daily hanging over Kilimanjaro mountain-top—had been captured -without any resistance, though it had been thought that the enemy would -make a long stand there. It proved an extensive, well-built town, -nestling in the pleasant and picturesque surroundings of the Kilimanjaro -foothills. A mile or so above the new town were the old fort and -residences of Old Moschi. Coffee and rubber were extensively grown in the -district, and well-developed plantations abounded in the neighbourhood of -the town. There was a large civil population left in the town at the time -of occupation, principally natives, Goanese, and Greeks. - -On the 15th, 16th, and 17th March we lay in Moschi resting, while it -daily, and gaily, rained in torrents. Apparently the rainy season had -begun in this locality. - -On the evening of the 18th, however, all was again stir and movement, -and the column marched out at dusk on the good _made_ road that strikes -south-east to Muë Hill. We marched pleasantly all night, for it was -dry overhead and the moon was full. We reached Muë Hill at 4 a.m. and -slept on the roadside for a brief three hours; clad only in our shirts, -as we had marched out. After our brief spell of rest the wagons and -pack-mules were loaded up, and we stood ready to march at a moment’s -notice. While waiting, some dead horses were burnt by the roadside, for -the poor animals continue to die in considerable numbers each day, and -if not burnt soon create, in the heat of the sun, a vile penetrating -smell, repulsive to all who pass. The column marched out at 1 p.m. in a -southerly direction on the road to Kahe, which was a railway station some -distance down the Moschi-Tanga line. Our advance guard engaged the enemy -in the thick bush, which bordered either side of the road, at about 3 -p.m. and firing kept up steadily for about half an hour. From there on -we intermittently engaged the enemy, who were retiring in good order and -taking up fresh positions about every half-mile. - -[Sidenote: ONWARD AGAIN BY NIGHT] - -About 2 p.m. aeroplanes from the eastern forces were sighted coming out -from Taveta, and they flew over our front. They were trying to locate the -enemy’s position ahead, and the direction of their retirement. All the -afternoon heavy big-gun firing was heard, seemingly from somewhere west -of Kitowo Mountains. The eastern column is evidently in action to-day, -while we, too, are at last in touch with the main enemy forces. Camped -for the night at Store—an open space with a few long-limbed cocoa-nut -palms therein, and enclosed on all sides by thick forest, with the Defu -River immediately on our right. No blankets to-night, and no fires -possible on account of the proximity of the enemy. Camp fired on on three -occasions overnight, but disturbances were short-lived. These alarms were -at 2 a.m., 4 a.m., and at daylight. - -The following day we remained in camp. No rations until noon, for owing -to bad river-drifts, and wagon accidents in the darkness, the toiling -transport had been outpaced, and left far behind, on the past two days of -trekking. Much rejoicing among the breakfastless men when rations turned -up. Aeroplanes scouting south of us in forenoon. The enemy, under the -command of Kraut, is said to be holding the entire front on the Ruwu -River, between Kahe Station (extreme west of line) and the marshes west -of Mokinni Mountain (extreme east of line). - -[Sidenote: ATTACKED IN THE DARK] - -About 5 p.m. an enemy patrol crept up to the river where our troops were -bathing and watering their animals, and opened fire on them. Confusion -ensued on the river-bank. Unarmed bathers beat a precipitous retreat; -mules and horses broke away in all directions. One of our men, stark -naked, rushing back to our trench line for his arms, was amusingly -confronted by the General and the Colonel of our battalion, who stopped -him to inquire the cause of the disturbance. The poor fellow felt much -abashed, and, no doubt, wished the ground would open up and swallow -him. The firing soon ceased, and the excitement it had caused gradually -quietened down. But peace was doomed to be short-lived, for at 8 a.m. -at a suddenly given signal, tremendous fire swept the camp and startled -everyone to frightful wakefulness. Bugle calls of the enemy rang out -immediately after the first burst of firing, and thenceforward a -deafening, close-grappling, vicious battle held forth. Time after time -the enemy came on at our trench line, always to be held up and driven -back. In all they made about twenty charges in frontal attack, and were -once almost into our line. The engagement raged without pause for about -four hours. The frontal attack, which could be rapidly reinforced from -the road from the south, was the heaviest, but both flanks, at the same -time, underwent considerable pressure, though from a farther range. -German bugles sounded the advance from time to time, whenever there -was a lull in the firing, as if the moment’s pause had been to take in -breath for a fresh effort; and when one bugle sounded, the call would be -caught up and repeated all around us in the darkness of the bush. The -enemy fire, fortunately for us, was bad, for it was mostly too high, also -many bullets were obstructed in their flight through the dense forest. -Otherwise, our casualties must have been extremely heavy, for many of the -column were without any trench cover, and lay exposed on the open ground. -As it was our casualty return, eventually, was only three killed and -seventeen wounded, and a number of horses destroyed, while, next day, the -enemy were reported to have had fully one hundred casualties. - -Next day—the memorable 21st of March, 1916—in the early morning, our -column was reinforced from the eastern command with two battalions of -South African Infantry, armoured cars, and some field guns. Orders had -been received to attack Kahe. Our right was to be on the main road, -when we advanced into battle. It transpired that General Van Deventer’s -mounted brigade had passed through Moschi last night, and was to advance -on the right flank and attack west and south of Kahe Station, while, at -the same time, the eastern column was to operate along the line of the -Himo River on the left flank. - -[Sidenote: HARD FIGHTING AT KAHE] - -Our column moved out at 9 a.m. Contact with the enemy was very soon found -thereafter. At 11 a.m. our artillery opened fire on the enemy positions, -while meantime our fighting line had formed and advanced slowly until -about 400 to 800 yards off the enemy’s entrenched and prepared positions -in the bottle-neck formed by the Soko-Nassai River at its junction with -the Defu River. Here our forces were held, and the battle raged bitterly -for some hours. Some of the enemy machine-guns were faultlessly handled, -and inflicted heavy casualties. The fight was across a dead-level open -grass space, terminating in bush at either fighting line. It was in -the bush, on the enemy’s side, that their death-dealing machine-guns -were concealed, and throughout the day our artillery failed to search -them out. I saw those machine-gun emplacements later—there were two -outstanding ones—and one proved to be on a raised platform, eight feet -above ground, and skilfully concealed amongst the trees; the other was -in a dug-out pit, with a fire-directing observation post in a tall tree -standing just behind it. Where each gun had stood lay a huge stack of -empty cartridge-cases, telling clearly that their gunners had found a -big target. But where the raised gun had been, blood in all directions, -and torn garments, and dead natives, told that not without payment had -they held their post. But I digress. The battle raged unceasingly until -dusk, with all its grime, and thirst, and heart-aching bloodshed. With -darkness the firing ceased, as if by mutual consent, and immediately we -commenced to strengthen our hastily dug trenches—dug during the action -with bayonets, knives, hands—anything. And there they laboured, those -grim, dirt- and blood-bespattered men of the firing lines while movement -became general on all occupations. Ambulances and doctors were being -sought on all sides, while many men passed along looking for water, in -desperate need of quenching their thirst. In that bush forest, after -dark, wandering parties, unfamiliar with the encampment as it lay after -battle, seemed to be looking for every regiment, and water-cart, and -doctor in creation. Late into the night the labours of readjustment and -of organisation went on, while in the trenches dog-tired men, one by one, -dropped off to sleep. About midnight peace settled over the camp, and -the remainder of the night passed without further disturbance. At dawn, -patrols went out and found the enemy had evacuated the entire front of -prepared entrenchments, and had retired rapidly south under cover of -the bush and the darkness. At the same time, news came in that General -Van Deventer’s mounted troops had occupied Kahe Station, and the two -commanding kopjes to the south. - -So, for the time being, the storm of arms was over, and the enemy had -staved off defeat by evading a prolonged battle. - -[Sidenote: GERMANS USE GUNS FROM BATTLESHIP] - -At 9 a.m. our battalion moved forward and took up a new defensive line, -facing the south, across the Ruwu River. South of the Ruwu River, on the -left flank of the enemy’s position, lay the ruins of a 4·1 naval gun, -laboriously transported inland from the _Koenigsberg_ battleship, which, -in the early days of the war, our naval forces had crippled and rendered -unseaworthy after chasing it to its lair in the mouth of the Rufiji -River. About 7 o’clock on the previous night all had heard a terrific -explosion, and there now lay the wreckage of it. The gun had been set -up completely and with ingenious labour. Iron girders carried the heavy -plank platform which received the deck mountings of the gun. Tools, -and ironmongery, and rope, of ship-board nature, lay about the gun in -profusion. In all construction the equipment and labour were thorough and -workmanlike. The labour of carrying the material from Kahe Station, and -the labour of erection, must have been colossal, one would think almost -impossible. The observation post for the gun—a crow’s-nest platform with -a rude ladder access—was in a high thorn tree towering above all its -neighbours; and during the late battle, from this look-out, they had been -able to direct the fire of the gun on to both Van Deventer’s column and -our own. Close to the gun were the many grass huts of an encampment of -some weeks’ standing, while all about those dwellings were native stores -of mealie-meal, peas and beans, and calabashes and empty bottles, the -leavings of a settled camp suddenly unsettled. - -The bridges over the Soko-Nassai and the Ruwu Rivers had been partially -destroyed, and a party of us was selected to repair them, as soon as camp -was established. Much of the old bridge timber was reclaimed from the -floating ruins, wherever it was found to have jammed down-stream, and -this saved us much labour, for otherwise make-shift timber would have -had to be cut from the surrounding trees. Toward the end of the day the -reconstruction was successfully completed. A rail was then run along -either side of those bridges, and laced with broad banana leaves, so that -transport animals would not see the drop to the river surface underneath. -Grass and earth were then laid over the planking of the bridge, and again -this was to assist the timid mules and cattle to face the crossing of an -obstacle that they all instinctively feared. - -On 23rd and 24th March, the column remained camped at Ruwu River. The day -after the battle some interesting information was obtained from prisoners -and is here noted: Two companies of the enemy were at Engare Nairobi -at the time of our march from the border, and were to have held up our -advance on Moschi. They retired on Moschi without offering any prolonged -or determined resistance, and it transpired that the Major in command -was severely reprimanded by the O.C. there; and took it so much to heart -that he committed suicide the same night. - -Sixteen companies—varying from 150 to 260 rifles per company—retired on -Kahe from Moschi district. - -The night attack on Store on the 20th inst. was made by three companies, -while seven were held in reserve at Kahe. The enemy are stated to have -had information that our strength was four infantry battalions. If that -is correct, they were exceedingly courageous, or very foolish, to attack -a force more than double their averred strength. - -In the action before Kahe the enemy were said to have employed eight -companies. After the engagement they were reported to have retired from -the Ruwu front on to Lembeni, which is some twenty miles farther south on -the railway. It is estimated that twenty companies have congregated at -Lembeni, and that another stand is likely to be made there. - -A doctor in the R.A.M.C. told me our casualties in the Kahe action were -about 200. German intelligence notes, captured later, showed that their -casualties had been eighteen Europeans and 146 Askaris. So that, if one -recalls that we were attacking the enemy in their prepared positions, -without cover for our troops, the result was not discouraging. Moreover, -as I have said, their machine-guns were most skilfully handled and -accounted for a large percentage of our casualties. - -[Sidenote: HEAVY RAINS STOP OPERATIONS] - -During the two days in camp at Ruwu, block-houses were built at the -bridge crossing, for the rains had seriously commenced, and the line was -here to be held until it was feasible to continue the advance. During -the rains it would be impossible to go on, for the country would then -be impassable for transport and guns; indeed much of it would be under -water. Moreover, it was necessary to lay the railway line on from our -base at Maktau to link up with the railway terminus at Moschi. So, -meantime, a battalion of Baluchis were detailed to hold the line on the -Ruwu, while the column retired to Moschi, which had the advantage of -being on higher and dryer ground, and was nearer to the base of supplies. -On 25th March the column commenced the return march, through heavy rain, -and on terrible roads. The rain had coagulated the loose dust into a -sticky holding mud that adhered, like a weight of lead, to the marching -feet. Late at night, after a very trying march, the column reached Muë -Hill and camped below the hill in an open space which resembled a marsh, -for it was six inches deep in mud and water. In this way we lay down and -slept as best we could, and passed a bad night. - -Next day, which was Sunday, we marched at dawn; again through mud and -rain. Many of our battalion fell out to-day, unable to go on, and were -picked up by the following ambulances. No evening meal last night, and no -breakfast this morning; and the men are feeling the acute strain that -has been put on their endurance. We reached Moschi about noon, and the -battalion was billeted in deserted buildings in the town. - -And there our travels for a time ended, for it transpired that we -were fated to lie in Moschi for a month and a half while it rained -incessantly. The first trek was over, a trek that, since crossing the -frontier, had entailed, for our column, a march of some 148 miles. - -[Illustration: ADVANCE FROM FRONTIER TO MOROGORO] - - - - -CHAPTER V - -THE SECOND TREK - - -On 14th May, 1916, I received orders to take the entire transport from -Kibosho, west of Moschi, back to Mbuyuni, on the Taveta side, where the -column was rapidly outfitting for another advance. The rains were over. -Our rest at Moschi was at an end. - -After a few days’ hurried preparation we marched out from Mbuyuni in the -afternoon of the 18th of May, and continued on the way all through the -night. It was a memorable march. I happened to be temporarily in charge -of battalion transport, and had to set out with a batch of “green” mules -which had been allotted to me on the previous day, and some of which had -never had a saddle on. All through the trek it was incessantly a case -of chasing escaped mules across country, repairing broken harness, and -resaddling the rearing, frightened, stubborn brutes. I, and my comrades, -spent the whole night on horseback, rounding up runaways, on the -outskirts of the column, and we had our hands full. During our labours, -four mules were completely lost in the dark; they had been either -overrun and left far behind, or they had been caught by others. However, -we got into camp in the end with two over our complement, for others had -experienced the same difficulties as ourselves all along the column; and -when in a tight corner, there is a popular old army maxim which says that -“the Lord helps those that help themselves.” So we had helped ourselves, -when we found stray animals without an owner. This first day out was the -worst, in dealing with the transport animals, and very soon hard work and -experience had won them all over to steady-going patient beasts of burden. - -The column marched in stages from Mbuyuni to Taveta, from Taveta to Himo -River, and from Himo River to Kahe; the battle-field of the 21st of -March, and the line at which operations ceased when the rains overtook -us. From Mbuyuni to Kahe was a trek of forty-two miles, and it was -accomplished in three days, which was good going for a burdened column -over bad roads. - -[Sidenote: OFF DOWN THE PANGANI RIVER] - -At Kahe we rested a day and marched at midnight on 22nd-23rd May. The -column was now trekking through bush and following the course of the -Pangani River, about a quarter of a mile east of its banks. Thus, we -hold well west of the Usambara Railway, but are travelling parallel to -it. This is a sound manœuvre, for our position here will always worry -the enemy in front of our forces operating on, or near, the railway in -conjunction with us. It is clearly seen that, should the enemy on the -railway make a stand, they would at once be threatened with a flank -or rear movement from this side, unless they had sufficient forces -to oppose, and hold, both columns. The country through which we are -passing is flat, and mostly grown with thorn bush. There are no hills, -excepting the distant ranges far out on our right and left. The soil here -is sandy, and sometimes lava-strewn. Signs of game are plentiful. The -column marched for ten hours before, in the forenoon of the following -day, halt was called, and we camped. All were tired out, for, under any -circumstances, a night march is trying; but we had been losing sleep -for some days now, and were feeling strained accordingly. Regarding -night marching, it is extraordinary how difficult it becomes to keep -awake, either marching or on horseback, when monotonously plodding -along. Commonly you will see a man dozing on his feet, but marching -unsteadily on, and if the man in front of him should have occasion to -halt, the sleeping man behind will walk forcibly into him, as an unseeing -pedestrian may bump into a lamp-post. - -During the early morning, on to-day’s march, an astonishing incident -occurred. Some of us, on the transport line, were suddenly startled by -the rush of an animal from the bush, and were amazed to witness a buck -jump clean across the road, over the top of a double line of mules. Half -a dozen white men and some natives saw this almost unbelievable feat. -The buck landed on the far side of the road only two yards away from me, -and I think it was a hartebeeste, but in the half-light I was unable to -be quite certain of the species. - -[Sidenote: BREAKING WAY THROUGH BAD BUSH] - -The following day, though we started at 3 a.m., the column had only got -forward about eight miles when halt was called in the evening. Heavy -bush had been encountered and was responsible for our slow progress, for -laboriously a roadway had to be cut before the column could pass onwards. -After camp was established, working parties went out ahead to continue -hacking a clear way onward. About midnight we loaded our transport -up, and moved out on the march about 3 a.m. We trekked all day slowly -forward, and did not camp until after dark. It was a long, hard day, -and everyone is feeling the pinch of meagre rations and want of sleep. -The trail, being obstructed by heavy bush, continued bad, until in the -afternoon the column emerged into an open grass-grown valley and made -headway thenceforward smoothly and rapidly. To-day we have passed well -beyond, and outflanked, Lembeni, on the railway—the point at which the -German forces congregated on retiring from Kahe. Apparently the enemy -have cleared. - -The following day, the 26th of May, the column did not trek until 1 p.m., -so that all, thank God, had the opportunity of securing a complete -night’s sleep. Much refreshed and more cheerful was the column that -marched out to-day. Late in the evening we camped near the Pangani River, -about opposite Same Station, which lay away to the east of us on the -railway. The weather continues rainless, and very hot. - -_27th May._—Trekked all day—a hot and wearisome march. The country we -passed through was level and open, and we pushed on rapidly. The enemy -are, apparently, fleeing far, for no resistance has been encountered, and -our pace is accordingly as fast as man and beast can stand. Last night, -ten Askaris and one white were captured in a patrol encounter. - -_28th May._—This Sunday morning we were astir at 3 a.m. and trekked until -the late afternoon. The pace, and the heat, and the lack of water between -camps are beginning to wear down the endurance of man and animal. The -men were very tired, and cheerless, when they reached camp to-day; they -had been loaded with equipment and on their feet for thirteen hours, and -were almost past exerting themselves to cook food and look after their -odd accoutrements. The oxen and mules, too, were about “all in” ere they -reached the end of to-day’s trek, and the poor brutes, who must needs -endure all in dumb suffering, get little enough care when the men who -look after them are so very tired out at the end of such a day as this. -Still passing through good game country. One herd of buffalo and many -zebra were seen to-day. - -_29th May._—At 4 a.m. loaded up transport ready to march, but did not -move off until two hours later. No rations this morning; supplies are -stuck on the road behind. When the battalion marched out I received -orders to stay back in camp to try to secure rations. This was -accomplished during the forenoon, and I then proceeded forward with three -food-loaded carts drawn by poor jaded oxen that were very far gone—during -the drive forward two completely exhausted oxen had to be turned loose -and a make-shift arranged by lightening one cart and driving it with a -single span of oxen. - -[Illustration: THE NECK AT “GERMAN BRIDGE”: ENGAGEMENT 30TH MAY, 1916.] - -[Sidenote:“GERMAN BRIDGE”] - -Meantime the enemy had been shelling the column ahead with one of their -4·1 naval guns, in position on the railway. When I approached the column, -they were halted in extended formation in the bush. Before reaching them -I had to cross an extensive open sandflat where the carts raised a cloud -of dust, and this caught the enemy’s eye, for suddenly their gun—which -had ceased firing for a space—boomed forth, and their shells, one by one, -whizzed wickedly in close proximity. Some fifteen to twenty shells were -sent at us before we had crossed that open space, but none found the -mark, though three of them landed, straight in the centre of the trek, -uncomfortably close in front. When we got through, it amused us to think -that those innocent old carts had drawn the enemy’s fire—perhaps we were -mistaken for artillery, or the dust-cloud of moving troops. On joining -the battalion there was general rejoicing at the sight of rations, and -something to eat was issued forthwith. About sunset the column drew off -to the right, and camped near the river. To-day, instead of heading -south as usual, we have followed the river-course almost due east, and -have approached close to the railway and the South Pare Mountains. The -advance troops of our column are to-day in touch with the enemy. We have -been placed with the reserve force and remain in readiness close behind. -The enemy’s position is at the entrance of the narrow neck formed by the -meeting of the Pangani River and the hills at the south end of the Pare -Mountains. Through this narrow fairway goes the Usambara Railway on its -route to Tanga. - -Next day, 30th May, the troops in front, under General Sheppard, attacked -the enemy positions across the neck, and fighting continued throughout -the day; the 2nd Rhodesians bearing the brunt of the battle. Close on -darkness the enemy force retired, and escaped overnight. Casualties were -fairly severe on both sides, for the fighting was stubborn, and the enemy -stuck gamely to their positions. While our column was thus attacking, the -eastern column—on the railway—had, some distance back, gone over the Pare -Mountains and closed in on Buiko from the eastern side of the range, -thus threatening to surround the enemy, in the neck, if they should -determine to hold on there. - -Meantime, everyone in reserve, though keenly disappointed not to be -called into the fight, made the most of a halt that was needed by all, -while starving oxen and mules were fully watered, and turned loose -to graze on the scant grass and low woody shrubs which grew on the -ill-nourished sandy surface in the somewhat open bush. - -No fires were permissible, since smoke might give our position away, and -draw artillery fire or a night attack; and accordingly our grub consisted -of “straight” bully and biscuit, and water, a fare we were very familiar -with now. - -In the small hours of the following morning we loaded up the wagons and -pack-mules, and moved out again. But we did not go any considerable -distance before halt was called on the battle-ground of yesterday. The -battalion to which I belonged was then ordered ahead, but the transport -remained behind, and I with it, much to my disgust—we were very keen in -those days, and no one liked to miss the smallest chance of a fight. - -While in camp I looked over the enemy’s positions of yesterday. The -entrenchments were all newly dug, and a splendid bridge was half -constructed over the Pangani River. Apparently this was to have become -a very strong position had time been allowed for its completion, and -here we realised the wisdom of our forced marching. General Smuts in -pressing on is giving the enemy little time to rest, and prepare for our -on-coming. We have marched 145 miles, from Mbuyuni to Buiko, in the past -thirteen days, and, since leaving Kahe, have had to break trail through -uninhabited country, most of it standing thorn-bush forest. And, so that -one may realise the extreme length of our day, I have been particular -in recording the hours at which we started out on those treks. It will -be seen that sometimes we trekked all night, sometimes we started at -midnight, but most often it was a case of getting up at 2 a.m. or 3 a.m., -or 4 a.m. in the cold, chill night, and away soon after. - -[Sidenote: DELAYED AT BUIKO] - -However, our arrival at Buiko next day marked a pause in operations, for -we were destined to remain in that locality for the next eight days, -while the German railway was being repaired to this point, and our -insufficient supplies were augmented. - -The enemy had passed on through Buiko in their flight, and it was -unoccupied by either them or civilian inhabitants. It was a small station -composed of a few stone-built houses with cactus-fenced compounds, but -with an extensive railway siding, and siding sheds. After resting here -four days, the battalion crossed the Pangani River, opposite Buiko, by -pontoon bridge, and were then employed in cutting a road, through dense -bush, back north to the almost completed “German Bridge” at the entrance -to “the neck.” - -Where the open valley grass—which stretched north and south, following -the river’s course—joined with the rugged edge of the bush, we had -pitched camp, and it was here that, short of rations, a comrade and I -ventured to hunt for meat for the pot. - -It was about 4.30 on the second morning in camp. I turned over -luxuriously in my blankets, and lay on my back blinking hazily at the -overhead stars. It was within that dreamless hour before rising time, -when the many disturbances of night on war service had passed away, and -given place to peaceful rest and deep, delicious comfort and content. -Half consciously I saw that dawn was breaking, and was aware that -overnight I had promised to go on a surreptitious game hunt at daylight. -What a fool’s promise I thought that now! and I nestled snugly into the -blankets for just “five minutes more.” - -“Buck! Come on!” - -Rudely I was startled to active wakefulness, as the words of Lieutenant -Gilham broke into my slumbers in a low voice. - -“Right!” I called back as I sat upright. It was full daylight. Gilham -was pulling his boots on in his lair under a bush a few yards away. We -grinned at each other and dressed rapidly, silently; we knew the value of -stealth. - -[Sidenote: RATIONS VERY LOW] - -Rations were low. Flour, and half a pound of bully beef, had been -yesterday’s issue, and Gilham, a veteran from South Africa, had come to -me with the scheme to clear into the bush at daylight on the morrow. It -was against orders to shoot, and perhaps against orders to leave the -camp, but, being old hunters, and hungry, the old instinct got the better -of discipline, and we had agreed to “chance it” in the morning. - -All ready! Gilham lit a cigarette—that was in the days when we still had -a few—lifted a service rifle, and started off, with a nod to me to come -on. Signing to my black boy, Hamisi, I followed out, between the line -of sleeping trek-tired soldiers, who lay along the west front of our -perimeter. Immediately we were in the dense thorn-bush and wending our -way laboriously, carefully, westward through the cruel-fanged jungle of -countless cactus needles and grasping hook-thorns. It was the familiar -type of African bush—dry, waterless, gravel and sand surface, grown with -low wide-branching thorn-trees at fairly open intervals, filled in with -a dense undergrowth of smaller shrubs, sisal, cactus, and grasses, until -only narrow sand washes, or game paths, remain open, for short intervals, -here and there. Through this one wends his way, zigzagging, dodging, -stooping, and always on the look-out to move along the line of least -resistance. - -It is rough going, as rough as one will meet with in many travels. If one -who has not experienced it can think of a hard mountain climb, or of a -long march at the end of twenty miles, or of stiff canoe-going up-river, -one may realise something of the stress of endurance. For the rest—the -scratching, patience-trying obstacles—if you would picture the worst of -them—the thorn-tree Mgoonga—imagine half a dozen groups of Stewart tackle -clutching along your arm or leg or helmet, while another lot threatens -to tear your shirt back to rags. When you are hooked, you cannot free -yourself by forcing forward; you must draw gingerly back, and extricate -each barb with commendable patience; be impatient, and you will instantly -be hooked up worse than ever. I will carry memories of Mgoonga as long as -I live. But the bush is not all dense, and this morning, after an hour’s -travelling, we found more open spaces, along which one could sometimes -look to right or left or in front, for fifty yards or so. We were then -well out from camp, and, with a cross wind from the south aiding us, we -judged we could safely fire our rifles without fear of sound of report -reaching back to head-quarters. - -[Sidenote: HUNTING FOR FOOD] - -In whispers we agreed “all clear,” and the locks of our rifles clicked, -as cartridges were slipped into place, ready for action, while the boy -dropped fifty yards behind, as we moved ahead in Indian file, silently, -alertly, Gilham leading. We were hungry, and we meant to have meat! - -We had not gone more than half a mile, when suddenly a single buck jumped -from behind a bush, close in, and showed for an instant, in full view, -as it bounded behind the cover of the jungle. One breathless instant, -and it was gone, untouched. There had been no time to shoot, though we -had seen enough to name it a Lesser Koodoo doe, a delicate, graceful -thing, near to the size of a red deer, with prominent widespread ears. -Eagerly we had realised the valued prize; keenly we realised it had -vanished—alarmed, and impossible to follow. In undertone I “swore,” and -Gilham muttered “bad luck,” each in mind appraising the venison’s goodly -proportions, and hungry friends waiting rations in camp. Regrets were -vain. More keen than ever, we moved on again, the actual sight of game -whetting our appetite for a kill. But no! the Fates were unkind. At the -end of two miles of careful stalking we halted, and had not fired a shot. -Spoor in plenty had been encountered, principally the sharp-pointed -sand-print of Mpala hoofs or the untidy scraping and burrowing of a -family of wart hog. Many were fresh tracks, and promised the momentary -appearance of game, but the shadow of the bush held motionless and -lifeless, blank cover from which the treasures we sought had travelled -at first suspicion of danger’s footfall. Twice we had flashed large -flocks of guinea-fowl, magnificent birds and king of spoil for shot-gun -in Africa; but, armed with rifles only, we were this day in mind to -be impatient with the flutter and disturbance of their cackling, and -heavy-winged rise from cover, when we rudely chanced in upon their -morning breakfasting. And so, as duty demanded our presence in camp at 9 -a.m., we were halted at the turning-point—empty-handed and disconsolate. -Gilham wasn’t saying much. He never did when hunting, but one might -judge he was mourning his luck, as none too gently he rolled an uncouth -cigarette out of notepaper and rough-cut Boer tobacco. While he smoked, -we decided to circle up-wind, southward to begin with, and then, when -clear of our outbound line, to strike for camp over fresh ground. - -[Sidenote: GERENUK ANTELOPE KILLED] - -We were soon off again. The sun was now up and beginning to make itself -felt in the bush. In an hour it would be stifling hot in those enclosed -surroundings. We had not gone far—a half-mile or so—and we were crossing -some open bush—abreast in open order—when a low whistle from Gilham, -on my right, warned me to halt my cautious walk abruptly. He was not -in view, but I caught the movement of his rifle rising, and almost -instantly the report followed. Fifty yards ahead a buck jumped from -behind a bush and stood face on, startled; fearful astonishment and -bewilderment apparently making it unable to run for its life. Hurriedly, -too hurriedly! I fired—and missed to the left, and off went our quarry -bounding through the bush, we following at a run, not certain the -animal was unscathed, and hoping it might be wounded. But the buck had -vanished, and no sight of blood rewarded an inspection of his tracks. We -had missed. Fools we felt, and deserved our self-condemnation—too keen! -over-anxious! the certain temperament to make even the old hand miss “a -sure thing.” - -The buck had attracted my notice. During our fourteen months of -patrolling the German-East-British-East frontier I had not seen its kind -before. It was a buck like an Mpala antelope, but it stood slightly -taller, and was of extremely delicate build, while the neck was -noticeably very long and very slender; the horns curved back, as with the -buck Mpala, but were more closely set together than with that species. -Gilham named it a Gerenuk antelope. - -Again we moved on, and by and by drew near to the distance from camp -where we dare not fire. Suddenly a shot rang out, again from Gilham, on -my right. I could neither see him nor his object as the bush was dense, -and I paused anxiously. A moment, and a cheery shout rang out—“All right, -come on!” and I hurried over to find my partner proudly surveying a -prostrate Gerenuk doe, for, strangely enough, it was again this novel -species which Gilham had spotted and dropped with a bullet high in the -shoulder. It was a beautiful beast, though a doe, killed by fate of the -pot-hunter’s need, slender and delightfully delicate of build, with -a coat of close, short, glossy hair, dark chocolate brown, above the -central sides, where a distinctive horizontal line clearly separated -the darker upper parts from those a shade or two lighter below. Many -were our ejaculations of joy over our prize! Here was meat at last!—and -venison!—fit reward for our strenuous stalk. Proudly now we would steal -in upon our camp comrades and revel in a goodly feed all round. For one -day at least bully beef would not plague our palate. - -Without loss of time we cut the meat up, loaded the black boy, and, -carrying the remainder ourselves, we set off for camp, deciding we were -now too close in to shoot further. - -Nearing camp, half an hour later, we put up at intervals, singly, numbers -of dainty dodging Dik Dik, the smallest African antelope, which lairs and -jumps off like a British hare, and which in size it barely exceeds. These -little animals are usually sought with shot-guns, and give very tricky -shooting. They are a much-prized table delicacy. - -Our entrance to camp was a masterpiece of secret movement, and -bush-cutting parade found us on duty outwardly severe but inwardly -rejoicing over our morning’s outing. And so had we a glimpse of sport in -this famous big-game land while we passed on trek, keen on the trail of -even bigger game. - -On 9th June, the entire column—which had crossed the river from Buiko -and had assembled at our bush camp on the previous day—again marched out -on trek, and continued down the Pangani. In the late afternoon, the -advanced troops at the head of the column engaged rear-guards of the -enemy, and heavy fighting for a time ensued before the native village of -Mkalamo. Our position then was about opposite Wilhelmstal and Mombo, two -of the principal stations of the Usambara Railway. - -[Sidenote: ENEMY LEAVING USAMBARA RAILWAY] - -On entering Mkalamo, next day, it was found to be a village composed of -a few wrecked trading stores—burnt down by the enemy—and a large number -of grass-built native Shambas. Here an important light trolley-line, from -Mombo, crossed the Pangani and passed through the village, and on into -the bush where it continues a course to Handeni, which is a town, some -thirty miles farther south, on the broad trade road from the mouth of the -Pangani into the interior. The fighting took place last evening a short -distance north of the village, and the rear-guard action of the enemy -was, apparently, solely to hold us off until darkness, for it is reported -now that over 2,000 enemy were here yesterday, and that they evacuated -the village and neighbourhood overnight. Rumours are persistent that the -remainder of the Usambara line down to Tanga is almost completely clear -of German forces, and that all enemy are now making for the Central -Railway. The length of railway line from Mombo out to Tanga on the -east coast is about seventy-five miles. It should greatly assist the -forwarding of supplies if the port of Tanga and this section of railway -fell into our hands; if it is not already seriously destroyed. - -But it soon became evident that General Smuts intended to continue the -pursuit south, toward the Central Railway, without waiting for the -complete clearing of the remainder of the line. - -We remained two days at Mkalamo, holding on while operations on the -railway in this neighbourhood progressed. On 12th June we marched some -six miles forward to the angle of the Pangani River where it changes -direction and flows east to the sea, and there we again halted for a -couple of days. Rations have been short for the past two weeks, and -transport difficulties are evidently increasing behind. Moreover, most -of the bridges on the railway from Moschi have been destroyed, or partly -destroyed, by the enemy, so that there is delay in making use of any -railway line, until hasty repairs are completed. - -Regarding food we are limited at present to flour, and bully beef, and -tea, and sugar, no bacon, no jam, no biscuit—and bare flour, without -bacon fat or lard to cook it with, is almost a “straw” ration, for -flour and water dropped into a dry canteen lid doesn’t make anything -digestible or palatable. But if one is hungry it is eaten, and really the -men were wonderfully patient over their “dough-nuts,” and such scanty -grub, even though they grew lean—for you know the popular old song -beginning: “What’s the use of worrying?” which is the never-dying axiom -of our ever plucky soldiers. Being much in need of meat now, I went out -hunting in the afternoon of both days, but without success. Many tracks -of rhinoceros were crossed in this neighbourhood, but small game is -apparently very scarce. Some day, in hunting in proximity to the enemy, I -expect the game will be Germans instead of buck, but it’s worth that risk -of adventure, and if Germans are about in the bush, it’s as well to know -it. - -[Sidenote: WE BRANCH OFF FROM PANGANI RIVER] - -_15th June._—Réveillé at 4 a.m., and soon after the column marched out. -This morning we bid good-bye to the Pangani River, after having followed -its course for 135 miles, and headed south in the direction of the -far-off Central Railway, and Morogoro—to reach which a great area of -wilderness bush would have to be penetrated. Marched to-day over unmade -dust-deep tracks, and camped in the bush at night after advancing some -sixteen miles. Rations dwindling; flour, tea, and sugar only issued -to-day. - -The following day we continued onward, and, after completing some twelve -miles, camped at 8 p.m., at Gitu, north-west of the considerable station -of Handeni, on to which the eastern column was advancing. Rations to-day, -½ lb. bully beef, coffee, and biscuits. - -Next day the column continued onward into the south, and during the day -emerged from wilderness bush into a country of plentiful small-croft -cultivation—the first country of this kind that we have encountered -since leaving Moschi. Native huts and mealie patches were on all sides -amongst the bush, which is now fairly open and of fertile growth. - -Toward noon we crossed the broad, well-made caravan road which comes from -the coast station of Pangani, and runs far west into the interior. Soon -after crossing this road we climbed into low hill country, and camped -at Ssangeni, a native village west of Handeni—some houses of which were -now visible, about eight miles distant, at the foot of an isolated, -prominent, cone-shaped kopje. To-day’s meagre rations, sugar (no tea), 1 -lb. meat, and biscuits. - -_Sunday, 18th June._—Lay all day in position occupied last night. -South African troops went out from the column in the early morning -under operation orders. Recent information as to the enemy’s strength -estimates that the force opposed to us, in the Handeni neighbourhood, -is twelve companies of infantry, two 4·1 naval guns, and fourteen maxim -machine-guns. - -[Sidenote: HANDENI NEIGHBOURHOOD] - -_19th June._—In camp. To-day the news reached us that Handeni had been -occupied by General Sheppard’s column, and also that the South Africans -operating from our column had engaged the enemy near here yesterday, -and inflicted some casualties, but the enemy would not long stand their -ground, and fought their familiar bush-covering retreating fight. To-day, -from the native habitations, some food was collected by our hungry -troops. My orderly obtained some welcome delicacies in the following -strange manner: he bartered an old shirt for two chickens, an under-vest -for seven eggs, and an old football sweater for six vegetable-marrows. -Money held little inducement to the natives here; they were in great need -of clothing, and it was apparel they sought. They say that sugar and -clothes are finished in the German camps. - -[Illustration: GERMAN PAPER RUPEE.] - -Crude, locally minted brass coins and printed paper one-rupee notes were -plentiful among the natives, here and elsewhere. Those they have received -from the Germans since war began in payment for food collected, by native -consent or by force. If the war failed for the German this very doubtful -currency would be unredeemable and valueless, and so the ignorant natives -were warned that it was poor, if not totally false, this wealth which -they held. - -On the 20th and 21st of June we remained at Ssangeni. In the evening -of the 20th advanced South African troops engaged the enemy ahead, and -heavy conflict ensued, and lasted some two or three hours. Later, one of -the returned wounded reported that the South African casualties were 15 -killed and 75 wounded, and that the enemy had had some 200 casualties, -but none of this information was authentic, though it was sufficient to -show that a sharp encounter had taken place. - -Next day, the 22nd of June, the column accomplished a long march forward, -trekking on from 9 a.m. until 8 p.m., with but one hour halt, and camped, -at the end of the day, at the native village of Kangata some twenty-five -miles ahead of our last camp. It was a long, hot, trying day, and -particularly wearisome when sheer exhaustion laid hold of the heavily -burdened soldiers toward the evening of the day. On the march, the column -passed through Ssonjo about noon, having travelled easterly across -country on a native bush-path until the Handeni-Ssonjo road had been -intersected. Our course thenceforth had been due south. The retreating -enemy, falling back from Handeni, held up our advance by occasional sharp -short-lived rear-guard actions—bursts of firing on the advance guard—and -the country, which was bush-grown on either side of the narrow native -road, was well suited to their hide, and strike, and run away manœuvres. - -A number of oxen and horses were left dead on the roadside to-day. No -“feed” ration is available for issue to transport animals at present, and -this unfortunate state of affairs is telling heavily on the live-stock. -Our own rations have been somewhat better during the last three days. - -[Sidenote: WE MARCH ON LUKIGURA RIVER] - -On the 23rd of June rations of meat and flour were cooked before the -column marched at 4 a.m. We were in for a long trek, and were told to -expect a fight at the end of it. Our objective was the bridge-head, and -the hills commanding it, where the bush-road crossed the Lukigura River, -and where the enemy had dug in. The eastern column was, in conjunction, -to advance down the narrow native road, which runs through the bush from -Handeni to Makindu at the northern end of the populated Nguru Mountains, -while we were to circle away wide to the west and attack at the heart -of the hill position. All night we trekked, excepting for one halt at -midnight. It was slow, monotonous work for this column, which must have -stretched to a sinuous length of miles; for it was necessary, on account -of the density of bush and jungle growth, to feel the way along in -single file, on a narrow native bush-path over which a native guide was -leading us to our goal. Moving, then halting till the kink in the line -straightened out, then on again, so dragged the night hours wearily on; -and progress was made, though we travelled as sheep in a strange defile, -led we knew not where. After midnight bitter cold set in and chilled our -scanty shirt-clad bodies, and when dawn broke the red-hot sun was for -once welcomed in Africa, as it warmed us to life again. But still, when -the day dawned, the trekking column held onwards, and all through the -day we marched, until 4.30 p.m.—and then to battle. I have never seen -men more utterly tired and woebegone than our men at the time of their -approach on Lukigura River. They had been marching twenty-four and a half -hours, kit-laden and without substantial food; and yet, when they went -into battle all fatigue was forgotten, or they were careless of further -physical trial; and they fought like madmen—and as heroes. - -It was for us a short, hot engagement, and the height and the village of -Kwa-Direma were stormed at the point of the bayonet, and in our hands ere -the fall of dusk. It transpired that the enemy had confined all their -attention to the bush-road from Handeni, down which the eastern column -was advancing, and they were taken completely by surprise when our attack -pounced on them from the west, and inflicted complete defeat and heavy -loss. Meantime the eastern column attacked below, on the road in the -bush, east of Kwa-Direma, and carried the bridge-head over the Lukigura -River, inflicting further punishment on the beaten enemy. - -During the early part of the night our new positions on the hill-crest -were shelled by the enemy’s naval guns. A few casualties resulted, but -most of the shells were high and went over the hill to burst in the -vacant bush below. - -[Sidenote: AN AFTER-BATTLE PAUSE] - -The next few days were spent in camp at Kwa-Direma. Here I made some -sketches of the position and neighbourhood for G.H.Q., and spent some -time in the bush, much of which was breast-high in tangled undergrowth -and rank grass, but which nevertheless showed traces of where the enemy -had scattered and hidden at the time of our attack. - -Here, one morning, my porters captured a small antelope—Harvey’s Duiker, -♀—even at the door of my native-erected grass hut, where it had rushed in -fear and bewilderment on being disturbed near by. - -Here, also, I had some practice with a 1-in. Krupp gun which we had -captured in the late engagement. Though completely out of date, it -was a vicious and accurate little piece, and, as long as the captured -ammunition lasts, it has been decided to have it added for service to the -Machine-gun Section of which I am in charge. A day later, too, I took -part in some tests of armoured-car armour plate, at the request of Major -Sir John Willoughby. The armour plate withstood the blow of the Krupp -gun shell at 100 yards range, and was merely dented. We then tested the -German made-up iron-plate shield on the Krupp gun. Our service rifle -failed to penetrate the plate, but a ·245 high-velocity sporting rifle of -Sir John Willoughby’s put a neat hole clean through it. - -_Sunday, 2nd July._—And for once, as it rarely is on service, it has been -a quiet day, and like a Christian “day of rest.” And being a Sunday it -recalls our homes, from which we are longing very much for news. Mails -reach us at very long intervals of a month or more, and for weeks we have -been hoping for home news. The column has lain a week at Kwa-Direma, -and we are said to be waiting here until supplies come up in quantity. -We have had no full ration since getting here, and we are all feeling -the effect of the shortage. From two natives, whom I persuaded two days -ago to go to their home in the hills to forage for food for me, I have -to-day purchased, in exchange for old clothing, some mealie-meal flour -and thirteen fowls. Great the rejoicing, for this is, in these bad days, -a windfall for myself and some of the men. One hen, a white-plumaged one, -I kept a few days, and by then it had proved so friendly and tame that I -decided to spare its life and keep it as a pet. Thereafter, here and on -trek, it caused much amusement and comment. It lived with me a few months -before it was stolen by someone whose hunger overcame his scruples, and -each day, whether on trek or in camp, it laid me an egg. Very peculiarly -this hen learned to come to roost wherever I lay, and, more curious -still, it was never at a loss as to my whereabouts when released among -the feet of hurrying soldiers in strange surroundings at the end of a -trek. On trek she was generally tied down in a horse-bucket, and carried -by my native servant. - -The next few days passed uneventfully, except that much time was given -over, on my part, to increasing the proficiency of the machine-gunners -and to the training of mules, both old and new, to complete familiarity -with their saddles and loads. Once during those days the camp was sniped -at night, but in the darkness no damage was done. - -On 7th July we loaded up and marched out south-west, on the bush-road -over the Lukigura River. In the afternoon Makindu, which had already been -occupied by General Sheppard’s column, was reached, and there we camped. -Immediately on camping we were shelled by the enemy for about an hour, -but little damage was done. - -[Sidenote: 260 MILES FROM THE FRONTIER] - -Makindu, this village on the Msiha River, which we had reached and where -we were destined to stay for a time, is still some seventy-five miles -north of our objective—Morogoro, and the Central Railway. But a great -trek has been accomplished, for we are now 260 miles from Mbuyuni, our -starting-point on the frontier. Needless to say this exceedingly long -line of communication has made the transport of supplies a tremendous -undertaking, therefore it was not unreasonable that, for the next month, -we lay at Makindu while transport difficulties were mastered and clearly -organised, and the shorter line, in from Tanga by rail, was opened and -brought to our assistance. - -This long pause, too, was beneficial to the overstrained troops. Speaking -of our own battalion, they were very far through in physique at the time -we reached Makindu, and in numerical strength they were, all told, under -200 strong. True, they were “the flower of the flock” in endurance, -this remnant of the 1,200 which sailed from England, but even they were -withered, and withering, with long fight, on short commons, against -unhealthy soul-exhausting climate. Nine officers remain who have gone -through all since the beginning, including the doctor, the O.C., and the -second-in-command. - -[Sidenote: UNDER PROLONGED SHELL-FIRE] - -At Makindu we had our first prolonged experience of shell-fire, for -throughout our occupation of this place we were continually shelled by -the enemy’s naval guns, and sometimes suffered considerable loss. The -enemy’s fire was throughout particularly accurate, as if the camp were -directly under observation from some undetected look-out in the high -ranges of the Nguru Mountains, on our south-west—which, at some points, -had an extreme elevation of some 6,100 feet. It was here seen that the -native Africans were very nervous and fearful of shell-fire, and their -raw instincts with difficulty stood the strain. It is a trying thing -for anyone to wait idly inactive for a shell’s vicious death-dealing -on-coming, but it is much more trying to the half-wild senses of a black -man than to a white man. We had no artillery with a range sufficient to -reach the enemy’s naval guns, so that the only retaliation on our part -was accomplished by dropping bombs from our aeroplanes. As soon as the -enemy ceased firing, invariably our ’planes went up, and, when over the -German positions—cunningly though they were concealed in the bush—bombs -were dropped on every likely target. It became amusing when the intention -of the opposite foe became clear, this persistent blow for blow “strafe” -between the enemy guns and our aircraft. - -At Makindu two delayed mails were received, and great was the rejoicing; -even though some of the letters were six months old. - -It was at Makindu, too, that, one evening, my pet white hen, which had -been with me since the fight at Lukigura River, killed a small snake 15 -inches long. This I had never seen done before by domestic fowl. She -was very timid and wary in pecking at the snake until very sure she had -stricken it to death, whereafter, with much exertion, she swallowed it -whole as if it were a worm. She is indeed a funny old hen. Still she -never gets lost amongst all the confusion of camp life, and each night -she comes home, often after roaming far, to roost within a yard or two of -me. - -[Sidenote: RECONNAISSANCE ON ENEMY’S FLANK] - -While at Makindu I did some reconnaissance and sketching for G.H.Q., and -saw much of the bush country beyond the camp. The following notes of one -such reconnaissance will serve to give an idea of its nature and the type -of country. - - RECONNAISSANCE PATROL - - WITH VIEW TO FLANKING ENEMY’S POSITION - IN RUHUNGU HILLS - - Patrol undertaken to investigate country on east flank out to - the track crossing from Massimbani to Legero, which is well - behind the German position. Patrol left Makindu at 4 a.m. on - the 1st of August, 1916, and returned to Makindu 3 p.m. on the - 3rd of August, 1916. Our southerly direction, from point of - setting out, was held on a bearing of 160 degrees throughout - the advance to Massimbani track. The distance, reckoned by - time, from starting-point to Massimbani track is about twelve - miles. The distance to intermediate grass track crossing from - Mssente to Ruhungu is about 4¼ miles. The first seven miles is - good and fast-going for vehicle road through open forest—little - forest cutting should be necessary, and no grading. The last - five miles of the total distance passes through some parts of - less open forest, and some timber felling will be necessary - in places. In this locality a few narrow “islands” of dense - bush—lying east and west—will be encountered, but these may - always be evaded by keeping round their western extremities. - No rivers, or soft river-beds were encountered; throughout - the surface soil is dry and hard. Where the Mssente track - was crossed, the bearing on to the Ruhungu position was 260 - degrees. Said bearing follows down an open grass valley which - is unobstructed by forest and in full view of Ruhungu hills. - The mountain range appeared close at the Mssente track, at - most some two to four miles distant, but the range viewed from - the Massimbani track appeared far off, and as if viewed from a - lower level. By eye I judged the distance here to be eight to - ten miles, and later, sketching out the course of the patrol, - I find it to be 8½ miles. The impression given me, and this is - borne out, was that in avoiding Massimbani village we were very - wide of the hills and the enemy’s line of communication to his - positions in front. In regard to this I might state that, after - crossing over the Mssente track about a mile, a bearing of 5 - degrees to 7 degrees would draw in more closely to the mountain - foothills, and might have better results. From the Massimbani - track a long, fairly low range of hills was apparent in the - distance, tailing off south beyond the prominent peak of Kanga - (elevation 3,280 ft.). The Mssente track was a mere path in the - grass and had no appearance of being much in use. The broad - Massimbani track is apparently one of long standing, and had - appearance of being much used by the enemy, though no movement - was observed while for some hours we lay hidden on watch. There - was no telephone line on the Massimbani track. - - On the return journey the patrol held slightly easterly until, - after going three miles, the Lukigura River was struck. The - course of the river was then followed for about 2½ miles. - Kwa-Beku, where shown on field map, was not observed. Kraals - were seen on the opposite side of a lagoon on the river, after - we had followed its course for about a mile, and signs of - grazing cattle were noticed near here, but the huts across the - river appeared uninhabited. The route by the course of the - Lukigura River is obstructed by dense patches of jungle, and - the going is bad. If it were necessary to approach the river - for purpose of securing water for animals and troops, I would - state that a short distance north of the Massimbani track, - say two miles, the open forest runs out to the river-bank and - access to water could here be easily accomplished. - -Such was a manner of unravelling the mystery of the important and unknown -details of the map in this ever new and strange country. - -_5th August, 1916_.—At 3.30 a.m. the camp was astir—to-day we were to -march, to-day we were again to begin active operations. After great -overnight operations, this morning we trekked out from Makindu on the -road back to Kwa-Direma, for it transpired that we were, as Divisional -Reserve, to take part in an encircling right flank movement through the -Nguru Mountains between the main block of hills and the Kanga-Kilindi -range, on the eastern side of which the enemy stronghold sheltered. -Arriving at Kwa-Direma about midday, we found a large concentration of -forces there composing General Hannyngton’s Brigade and part of the -Divisional Reserve. Previous to our arrival mounted South African troops -under General Brits had already left to commence the advance through the -hills. - -The following two days I have no wish to recall, but that they are -necessary to this narrative. We began, and laboured incessantly to -advance our column of troops and transport into hill country that proved -to be quite impassable, for any but unburdened man or beast, owing to -its succession of deep valley bottoms and steep untracked hills. But -nevertheless we laboured on for two days, on such strenuous work as -cutting roads through forest, laying corduroy logging over swamp marsh, -and, at the hills, inspanning two to three complete teams of mules or -oxen to drag each wagon with excessive effort up the stupendous grades. -At the end of the second day, after we had in all covered some eight to -ten miles, the project was abandoned, and we received orders to return -the way we had come. - -[Sidenote: OPERATIONS AGAINST RUHUNGU FAIL] - -Next day we again reached Kwa-Direma, and none were sorry to be out of -those hills. Meantime the operations that had been going on, on both -flanks, with a view to attacking or surrounding the Ruhungu positions -unaccountably failed to get to grips with the enemy, who, probably in -fear of a rear attack, succeeded in secretly evacuating their stronghold -while the mounted troops were working their way through the hills. This -was to all a big disappointment, but the extremely awkward nature of -the country proved again the enemy’s disconcerting ally and for him his -saving. This operation was, perhaps, meant to be our greatest effort to -force a decision—at least so did we, at the time, regard it. - -On the 9th of August we were back in Makindu, and on the 10th we -proceeded along the road toward the Ruhungu position. Soon we found -the road completely blocked by great trees that had been felled across -it by the enemy, and in some places the road was also mined. Slowly we -went forward throughout the day, investigating the level bush and the -hill-sides as we went. Once about fifty enemy were sighted, and lost -again in the bush. Once a mounted patrol of Sepoys fell in with the -enemy, who surprised them when dismounted, and they lost their horses, -and then their heads, while an advancing line of our men raked the bush -with rifle-fire beyond them. Next day those horses, six of them, were -found running free in the bush, and were caught and returned to their -owners, one or two of them suffering from bullet wounds. - -In the late afternoon we built a boma (bush fence) protection and camped -for the night on the road; and again moved forward in the morning into -the Ruhungu position. Progress was slow while the position, which -was a very strong one in its systematic completeness, was carefully -investigated, covered by machine-guns trained on the hill-slopes ahead. -The position was completely occupied at 11 a.m. and all reported clear. - -[Sidenote: RUHUNGU STRONGHOLD] - -Going over the position I was astonished at the work that had been spent -on it. For instance, on the low ground at the position defending the -road, a wide carpet of sharply pointed, dangerous-looking, hand-cut -pegs had been staked out in front of the whole trench line to protect -it, apparently, from cavalry charge. This original and ingenious -“entanglement” could not have been constructed without many, many days of -labour by many men. Then, too, in the hills above, regular subterranean -caves, and pits, had been excavated everywhere for protection from the -attacks of our aeroplanes, some of them even hewn out of the solid rock -by the industry of many hands. - -In the afternoon we passed beyond Ruhungu, and in the evening camped by -a small rivulet in low country east of the high Kanga mountain-top. Many -small bush-log culverts on the road have here been destroyed by the enemy -as they retired, and this has left the road impassable for transport -until repairs are made. - -The following day we advanced until the Russongo River was reached, and -then camped, while working parties busily constructed a new bridge over -the river. - -At early dawn of the next day, which was Sunday the 13th of August, -we trekked again onward through tree-covered hill country, and made a -long march in a south-westerly direction, camping in the afternoon at -Kinjumbi on the Luăle Liwăle River. The timber bridges destroyed, over -streamlets and rivers, coursing numerously from the mountain watersheds, -are now everywhere being roughly and speedily repaired, and the forces -are hurrying forward in the wake of the escaping enemy. General Smuts is -himself here to-day and hustling things forward. - -Worked all through the night repairing the bridge over the deep-banked -Luăle Liwăle River; then off over the river in the morning and onward, -until again held up at Turiani, before which flows the large River Mwúhe, -where two bridges had been blown up to block our passage. We have now -descended into low, unhealthy marsh country, where the atmosphere is -close and damp, and fly-ridden. For the remainder of the day and the -next two days, swarms of us, like busy ants, laboured to and fro on the -construction of the large timber-buttressed bridge being thrown across -the high-banked river. At the end of the latter day fever laid hold of -me, and left me with just enough energy doggedly to carry on. Toward -evening, too, of the latter day the work drew to a close, and we marched -out forthwith, at 7 p.m., to camp about midnight at Kwe d’Hombo. - -Meantime the forces ahead had pushed on south to reach, on the 17th of -August, the Wami River, there, at the bridge-head at the village of -Dakawa, to enter into an all-day battle with the strongly entrenched -enemy. The struggle was a fierce one, and again the enemy suffered severe -punishment, but, nevertheless, they stubbornly defended their positions, -on the opposite banks of the river, until night-fall, then to escape -under cover of the screening darkness. - -[Sidenote: MOROGORO OCCUPIED] - -On the 19th, 20th, and 21st of August, I was employed going over and -making plans of the Dakawa position, though still continuing a victim of -vile malaria. This, however, was the last work I did for seven days, for -I went hopelessly down with fever next day, and went into field hospital, -while the force continued on, and on 26th August occupied Morogoro, and -cut the Central Railway without meeting further enemy resistance. - -I left ambulance quarters, and Dakawa, on the 28th of August, and reached -Morogoro in the forenoon two days later, there to find that the battalion -was still fifteen miles ahead. So, not to be done, I borrowed a mule and -a broken-down German saddle, and caught up the column before night-fall, -at Killundi, east of Morogoro on the low road south of the Central -Railway. Over the country I had passed in coming from Dakawa great -stretches of the bush grass had been burnt down by the enemy in their -retirement, presumably so that there would not be even dry poor grazing -for our already lean-flanked horses and cattle. - -So we had reached Morogoro—which was a large, picturesque town below the -northern foothills of the Ulugúru Mountains, with colonial well-built -houses and bungalows, and palm-shaded, sand-carpeted streets, wherein -moved native pedestrians in bright-coloured cotton garments swathed -loosely over their shoulders and bodies. And here I must halt; though -the columns halted not, and relentlessly continued their pursuit of the -fleeing enemy. To reach Morogoro we had trekked some 355 miles, and -in attaining our objective had taken part in the fall of the entire -Central Railway; for in conjunction with our operation, and almost -simultaneously, naval forces captured the port of Bagomayo, near -Dar-es-Salaam; General Van Deventer’s column cut the railway at Kilossa -and Mpapua—over 100 miles west of Morogoro—while the Belgian forces, -from the Congo, threatened and eventually captured Tabora—the interior -terminal of the railway. - -A few days later news came through that Dar-es-Salaam, the capital and -chief port of the Protectorate, had surrendered to naval forces on the -4th of September. - -After wrecking all the important steel-constructed bridges, and all the -rolling stock on the railway, the enemy had now fled to the south into -the only country that remained free to them—even though it was, beyond -the Ulugúru Mountains, a country of bush and swamp and wilderness to -which they fled, and entailed their final irrevocable departure from the -last of their civilised settlements and trade-centres, and from their -all-important railway. - -Indeed, at this stage, it must have been patent to most of them that, -in suffering this disaster, their country was lost; prolong the final -capitulation though they may. - -[Illustration: MOROGORO—RUFIJI RIVER] - - - - -CHAPTER VI - -THE THIRD STAGE - - -This was to be an advance less in ultimate distance than those previously -undertaken, and accomplished, but proved to be through country much -more attractive, in its early stages, yet, in its latter stages, more -unhealthy and trying than anything we had so far experienced. The -operations began in the very mountainous and beautiful Ulugúru mountains, -south of Morogoro, mountains which were cultivated and habited by large -numbers of natives, and which were rich in crop and pasturage and water, -and truly the first fair country we had seen—if we except the Moschi -area—that was not barren of almost everything but bush and wilderness. -But thereafter, when we cleared those mountains, we bade good-bye to -the last of fair scene and entered, for the remainder of the trek, the -low-lying, unhealthy bush country that stretches like a great unruffled -carpet right away to the banks of the Rufiji River, and beyond. - -Our object was, first, to follow the enemy, and, secondly, to clear all -the country north of the Rufiji River of enemy. To reach the Rufiji -River from Morogoro was a trek in all of some 130 miles, the first -fifty-five miles of which was through mountainous country. To clear the -hills our column was to proceed through them on the east of the highest -range; some ten miles east of us the eastern column was to work along -parallel south-going tracks; while a column composed entirely of South -African troops, in co-operation, was to work down the country, west of -the mountains, to close ultimately on the Fort of Kissaki. - -Setting out on the 31st of August we trekked to begin with on a good -“made” road, cut through the hills, and free of impossible grades, and -encountered no opposition until we had got beyond Matombo village and -mission station. - -Meantime, in continuing without halt to follow the enemy from Morogoro, -we were adding to supply difficulties, and saw little prospect of full -rations in the near future. At Killundi, one day’s march from Morogoro, -no rations reached us, and the battalion in their need had a much-wasted -trek-ox killed, and issued as emergency ration. Otherwise we had to make -shift as best we could, and were hard put to it to assuage our hunger. A -few small things were gathered from the neighbourhood, such as sugar-cane -stalks to chew at, a few pawpaws (Papáyu), and wild tomatoes, a chicken -or two; and one great find, a grey-marked goat from the hills. - -[Sidenote: IN THE ULUGÚRU MOUNTAINS] - -On the 3rd of September we encamped at Ruwu River, an enemy encampment -far down in a beautiful valley into which we had descended on a zigzag, -well-engineered road cut out of the steep hill-sides in pre-war days -at the expense of gigantic labour. The existence of this road through -the hills was unknown to our command until the enemy retired by it from -Morogoro. Fine tropical trees, on either side of the road, were tall and -dark-foliaged and majestic, and the undergrowth luxuriant and flower-lit, -while through the trees, every now and then, one glimpsed the fair valley -and hills below and beyond. Everyone was filled with admiration for the -beauties of the scenes we encountered on the final day of our march to -Ruwu River. It was indeed very beautiful country! - -The wide-spanned bridge over the river had been destroyed, but though -the river was wide at this season it was shallow and not more than -waist-deep, and the troops and the transport laboriously and successfully -forded the firm gravel and sand-bedded stream. The Germans had had -stores at Ruwu River, and here, in their hasty flight—for the enemy -had apparently just abandoned the place—large quantities of shells and -grenades were found dumped in the river-bed. - -On the 4th of September, leaving all transport behind, we marched out -at 6.30 a.m., and again trekked through lovely hill country, especially -in the early part of the day, when the road ran along parallel to the -river, we being then on a regular mountain pass cut in the precipitous -hill-sides that fell abruptly to the broad, bank-forested river, flowing -below us on our right. The Pass was a cutting that worked a way round to -open country, penetrating, in its course, the great base of a mountain -spur that abutted on to the very river-bank. In two or three places large -boulders and rocks had been blown out of the upper side of the Pass from -perpendicular rock cliffs, and effectually blocked the way for all but -nimble-footed men and mules. It was, though strange and very beautiful, -a dangerous bit of road, and difficult, and would give our engineers -and pioneers a very considerable task to make it again passable for -transport. However, bad though the road was, the marvel was that the -enemy had not completely blocked the way, for a few sticks of dynamite, -well placed, could so easily have accomplished that purpose. It proved -perhaps again that the enemy was hard pressed and flustered. During the -morning the Pass was negotiated, and we proceeded along a good road. -After the column had passed Matombo village, the battalion received -orders to occupy Magali Ridge—a high, long-backed hill off the road, on -the left flank. This entailed a long five-mile drag up steep hill-sides, -on narrow native footpaths, that were awkwardly rutted and bouldered. -However, by 4 p.m. we had laboured to the crest, and took up position for -the night there. - -[Sidenote: WARFARE IN THE HILLS] - -Meantime, the Gold Coast Regiment—who had been landed at Dar-es-Salaam -to augment our forces on this trek—engaged the enemy on the right of the -road in open, tree-clear hill country. This engagement, which continued -on through the next two days, was like open guerilla warfare, and -different therefore from all previous encounters which had taken place in -thick bush country. We, from our high position—as all was quiet on this -flank except for one short encounter—watched the fortunes of battle of -our friends across the valley. Artillery was in action on both sides, and -the white puffs of smoke told us plainly where the flying shells burst, -and where the opposing forces were located, and holding on. - -Gallantly the Gold Coast blacks, led by British officers, fought -the blacks of the country, and steadily they dislodged them out of -bush-patches, and from behind rocks, to drive them, bit by bit, up the -many hill-slopes toward the Kihunsa ridge; behind which lay the track -to Mgata, and their second road of retreat to the south through Tulo or -Kissaki. - -Meantime, on our flank, as I have said, all was quiet except for one -short “dust-up.” This was when, on the evening of the 5th, on a prominent -knoll on the opposite ridge, south of Magali ridge, we discovered and -destroyed, with mountain battery and machine-gun fire, the enemy’s -observation post which had been directing the fire of their naval -guns—long-range guns—which shelled from positions some six miles in -rear, and which our artillery could not attempt to reach, for at best -ours were light pieces which had been got through the part-blocked pass -at Ruwu River. As soon as this vital observation post was wiped out, -the enemy’s guns ceased fire, for there, far forward of the guns, had -hidden the eyes that saw all—eyes that scanned the whole countryside, and -the road, with the intentness of a bird of prey—and there had been the -cunning hand on the wires of the telephone that told off every pulse-beat -of the booming guns. - -On the evening of the 6th the troops on the right flank had worked -far out and up to the main ridge crest—some had even gone over it, -in pursuit of fleeing enemy—and, on the approach of dusk, the firing -died down altogether and fighting ceased. Natives whom I questioned, -who live in these hills, and have not deserted their homes in fear of -approaching conflict, state that the force on the right flank is not the -big one, but that the larger force is on the main road between here and -Bukubuku, in which village, where a road joins in from the west, there -is a large camp of enemy. On the last day of the fight the natives, who -are extraordinarily quick in flashing news from hut to hut amongst their -tribes, stated that all the enemy were preparing to leave the hills, and -that they would go toward Kissaki Fort. - -The 7th of September was a quiet day, and was spent in camp on the -sun-hot ridge, while we grew impatient at our inactivity. Though all was -quiet on our front, we could hear the battle call of big guns firing to -the east, where the eastern column was “somewhere” in action. - -[Sidenote: ENEMY HARD-PRESSED] - -_8th September, 1916._—Camp afoot at 4 a.m., and the battalion trekked -at daylight; at that time commencing the descent from Magali ridge to -the road, where we joined in with the column. About 10 a.m. we passed -through Bukubuku, then deserted, but where large, carefully built barrack -hutments extensively lined the road. This place had the aspect of being a -large military centre, probably a training station for natives recruited -from these populated hills. Late in the day, as we advanced steadily, -the road began to wind down out of the hills until, to the south, there -appeared before us a great level stretch of haze-softened bush country, -reaching out as far as eye could follow. From noon onward, to-day, small -but troublesome enemy rear-guards harassed our advance, until finally, -in the evening, we drew in on larger forces and entered into a short -engagement at Mwuha River and village. It promised, at one time, to be -a hot set-to, but mountain-battery guns subjected the village to very -heavy fire, and, when extended infantry proceeded to attack, the village -was entered without noteworthy incident, for the enemy were found to be -again retiring, and, as it was getting dark, we could not follow on their -heels. - -During the trek to-day quantities of abandoned stores were passed from -time to time upon the road, principally field-gun ammunition, wagons, -dump-barrows, and pioneering implements. We continue close on the heels -of the enemy, and, fearful of standing up to our superior forces, they -are apparently being hustled uncomfortably to get away each night, and -must now be a much-harassed force. - -[Sidenote: ABANDONED BUILDINGS AND STORES] - -Early next morning, when we moved out, we had not trekked far before -we came on the enemy’s rear-guard camp of last night, where some fires -were yet kindled and freshly killed meat lay about, quantities having -been but partly used. Shortly after midday, the column marched into -Tulo, which the enemy had hastily cleared from. Here, as at Bukubuku, -were countless grass huts which had been built and used as barracks. The -interiors of all were in disorder—rude furnishings, such as grass-laced -couches and chairs, were upturned everywhere; mealie-meal flour, peas, -beans, and paper lay scattered on the ground, or lay about in half-empty -sacks against the walls, and all gave one the impression of a looted -and abandoned camp, from which the occupants had fled in uncontrolled -haste. An hour or two ago the enemy had been here—now they were fleeing -through the bush and down the road leading south-west in the direction -of Kissaki. Here, as at Ruwu, large quantities of shells and other -ammunition were found dumped in the Mwuha River and abandoned. Besides -the barrack huts already mentioned, there were the many native kraals -of the permanent village of Tulo, and a number of these still contained -their peaceful occupants. The following day, as I had lost a considerable -number of machine-gun carriers, I recruited, for temporary service, -twenty-one sturdy, ragged-garbed, almost naked natives from amongst the -inhabitants of the village. These natives appeared friendly and willing -to serve under us, although we had been but a few hours their masters. -In their own dull way I suppose they reasoned that we were a great and -powerful people, since we were driving their late masters before us. - -The next four days we remained in reserve at Tulo, while the column -went ahead to Nkessa’s village, some thirteen miles farther on, on the -Dunthumi River, and entered on an extensive encounter on a wide front. - -My diary entries at this time again record great food shortage, and -declare that the men have not enough food to keep together their sorely -tried, used-up systems. And this was really so. Daily the ambulances took -in men we lost on the march from sickness and _exhaustion_. - -Being short of food at Tulo, and as the conditions did not improve, on -the third and fourth day I went out to hunt for the pot, and, as we were -now on the border of a large German game reserve, I found game plentiful, -and shot five antelope, three Reedbuck, and two Mpala. Other officers -did likewise, and soon there was no shortage of buck meat in the camp. - -[Sidenote: PROLONGED FIGHT AT NKESSA’S] - -Meantime, during the 10th, 11th, 12th, and 13th of September, a stern -struggle had been raging at Nkessa’s, and not until the evening of the -13th were the enemy dislodged from their many positions and driven back -some three miles south, and the hills and the river and the village -occupied. - -The day following I went forward to make a sketch survey of the -battle-field, which, owing to the extensiveness of the operations, I -did not complete until four and a half days later; throughout that time -labouring from daylight to dusk to get over the many positions. While I -was at Nkessa’s enemy movements were fairly quiet, excepting for some -night shooting on 15th, 16th, and 18th. The enemy were entrenched across -the Mgeta River about three and a half miles south of Nkessa’s, and some -of our forces were dug-in opposite them. For, for reasons beyond my -knowledge, operations, and the active chase, had, for the time being, -come to an end. - -[Sidenote: A WELL-CHOSEN POSITION] - -I give here a description of the country held by the enemy before -Nkessa’s village: - -To advance to the encounter Nkessa’s was approached from the east on the -Tulo-Kissaki road—a narrow, inferior road through the low country, and -running westerly parallel with the southern foothills of the Ulugúru -mountains, which were always visible well off to our right. The road -throughout was over level grade, and passed through country of thorn-bush -growth and tall, dense grass. - -Approaching Nkessa’s, the foothills draw in to close proximity of -the village, and, about 2,100 yards north of the road, a prominent -bush-covered hill, and a long ridge trending west, rise to an elevation -of about 300 feet from dense, bush-grown bases, and command the flat -country south and east; over which our forces advanced to attack. - -South of the prominent hill, between the hill base and the road, the low -ground formation is irregular, with small nullas and mounds and the whole -surface a dense tangle of bush growth and tall grass. - -Adjoining this, and continuing to the eastern edge of the village, there -is a square-planned rubber plantation, while above the northern boundary -of it there is a low spur, on which is situated a group of planters’ -buildings. From those buildings, which are clearly in view from the low -ground, a narrow road runs down, between the village boundary and the -plantation, to the main road. - -Across the main road, opposite the rubber plantation and the low ground -below the hills, there is a large level mealie-field, clear of crop, -which parallels the road for 1,000 yards or so from the village, and -which has a narrow width at the village, but which opens out fan-wise to -a depth of 550 yards at its easterly extremity, where it is bordered by a -cotton-field in crop. East of the cotton-field, where some of our forces -dug in, the country is level, with a surface of tall rank grass and a few -bushes. - -Bordering the south margin of the mealie-field, and continuing some -distance east, is a belt of dark jungle composed of tall trees and -tangled bush. - -Immediately south of the tree belt, at the south-west margin, there is a -village of native kraals hidden by some fields of tall-stalked mealies -and by the tall, rank grass common to the low ground of the Dunthumi -River, which in the rains is flooded. - -Farther south of this there are no decided landmarks, the country running -out like prairie, low and level, and grown with tall, rank grass, and -screening the Dunthumi River, which swings on to an easterly course after -it has left the hills and passed through Nkessa’s village and beyond -about a mile. - -Turning now from the south aspect to the west aspect: - -Immediately west of the prominent hill above the road, there runs -north and south, across a deep parallel valley, a long ridge which, at -its southern extremity, descends abruptly to the Dunthumi River, and -from the ridge the course of the river is clearly seen below, in the -immediate foreground, and running out south through its margins of tall -grass. Across the river, and just north of the village, the country -rises brokenly into low, bush-covered foothills. Those foothills were -unoccupied by enemy. From the ridge Nkessa’s village is not seen, -it being under cover of the large mango trees, and palms, and thick -forest, amidst which it is situated. However, it is a large village of -native huts, with a broad white road running through the centre of it -which is shaded with avenues of great densely leafed mango trees, and -lined on either side with native dwellings, grass-thatched, mud-walled, -sand-floored. - -From the village, a track runs out south along the west bank of the -Dunthumi River. The track is narrow but level, and passes through low -country with the usual perplexing growth of tall, rank grass and thorn -bush. - -One may gather, from this detailed description, the immense natural -difficulties of the country, and how hard it may be to turn an enemy -out of such positions. Here the only area of open space—viz. the -mealie-field—down which an attacking force might push rapidly forward, -was ruthlessly exposed to enemy fire from no less than three sides—from -the village, from the low bush north of the road, and from the dark -tree-belt south of the road. It meant death to too many to attempt it. -The alternative attack was to advance slowly, through the all-screening, -hampering bush, upon those concealed entrenchments in the grass; never -sure, even when the enemy are located by their fire, of the exact -position of the foe; never sure, at any time, what the next twenty -yards of jungle hold in store for you. You are blind from the time you -enter the rank jungle growth until you reach the enemy’s position, and -you are lucky if at the end you have sighted an enemy at all, though -you have been blazing away at one another at some fifty yards. And -picture the difficulty of keeping in touch with your own people in such -jungle, which, the moment you enter it, swallows you up in its depth of -undergrowth as if you were a rabbit taking cover in a field of ripe corn. -Not only is it difficult—I might say impossible, sometimes—to know where -your own people are, who are advancing on the right or left, but also it -is difficult to know the movements of the enemy. One moment they may be -in front of you; a few moments more, and they may be gone, undetected—all -but a few bluffing rifles—to a new position, or may be working round on -an open flank. - -Truly the enemy chooses his positions well, and it is the country, not -he, well though he fights, that robs us again and again of decisive -battle. Their positions are, with rare exceptions, chosen where they and -their movements cannot be seen, and thus their strength, at the many -points of battle, may be either a handful of men or a dozen companies. -Moreover, under cover of the bush, their lines are flexible to any -change, while always, in the rear, they have sure and safe lines of -retreat by which they can escape in the bush, in a dozen directions, -to meet again at a given point when their flight is over. Moreover, the -enemy is always on his own soil, whereas each new battle-front is, in -all its details, for us an unmapped riddle of which eye and mind have no -clear conception. - -[Sidenote: BUSH FOILS DECISIVE COMBAT] - -I have often been asked, “What were the difficulties of the -campaign?”—for the uninitiated have sensed that there were -difficulties—and I have answered, “Our greatest enemy to overcome was -the ever-blinding, ever-foiling bush and jungle growth; our second enemy -was the intensely hot climate, and subsequent disease; the third enemy -was the shortage of adequate rations; and the fourth enemy was the -grim tenacity of a stubborn and worthy foe.” There you have the four -essential conditions that made the East African Campaign a long one. But, -undoubtedly, the main condition, the one that can never be overlooked, is -that, in a territory 176,210 square miles larger than Germany—which is -seven-eighths larger than the whole area of the German Empire—the country -was a vast, unbounded wilderness of bush, with ready cover to conceal all -the armies of the world. Into that blank area were placed our tiny pawns -of armies, to move and counter-move, with the touch of blind men, in -pursuit of peoples who were, in their knowledge of the country, like wild -animals in their native haunts. - -And there for a time we must leave this subject, and the enemy—free like -wild animals in the bush—while I return to our camp life at Tulo. - -On the 19th of September, leaving Nkessa’s, I rejoined my unit at -Tulo, and remained there ten days, while the operations of our column -stood more or less at a standstill. Apparently our chase from Morogoro -had entailed even greater difficulties than usual to our line of -communication, and a breathing space had become imperative to attend to -road repairs in the hills behind, and to augment our failing supplies. - -Ultimately it transpired that our onward-pressing advance had come to a -prolonged halt that was to confine us to this unhealthy area for three -and a half wearisome months, while rains fell incessantly in the Ulugúru -hills in the rear and blocked the road to almost all traffic. Hence we -were constrained to wait in patience, holding on to our front in this low -country, and subsisting on such rations as could be got through to us, -while here too it rained, though in lesser quantity than in the hills. -When we came down out of the hills into the low country our battalion -camped for nineteen days at Tulo, before moving on, on the 30th of -September, to take over permanent positions at Old and New Kissaki on the -Mgeta River. - -[Sidenote: DELAYED AT TULO] - -A few records of Tulo may be interesting, and I will endeavour to follow -our existence there for a few days. - - TULO, _21st Sept., 1916_. - -Heavy rains overnight and all to-day, causing much discomfort, since we -have no shelter or clothing against such weather. We have been camping -under mere sun-shelters, hastily erected, and protection only from the -heat. We had been caught unprepared, and as penalty slept the night in -soaking blankets on the sodden ground, while to-day has passed without -chance to dry anything, not even our wet blankets. To-morrow, the -ambulance will attend more fever cases than ordinarily. - - TULO, _22nd Sept_. - -Rain has ceased, and everyone in camp is to-day employed rectifying -their shelters against a recurrence of downpour by rigging, over their -camp spaces, steep-pitched roofs, framed with green poles cut from the -bush, and thatched with compact layers of long grass gathered from -the surrounding country by our porters. In the afternoon I rode out -south-west across the river to look for game, and secured three Reedbuck -in open, dried-out swamp country. - - TULO, _23rd Sept_. - -Remained in camp all day. Overnight heavy firing was heard in the -direction of Nkessa’s village. To-day a crocodile was shot in the Mwuha -River: it measured 13 feet 1 inch. - - TULO, _25th Sept_. - -[Sidenote: KILLING GAME FOR HUNGRY PORTERS] - -Nothing new to-day. No fresh news of “our” war, or of the European -war, of which we get but scraps of information at intervals. Spent -the morning on battery drills and on machine-gun instruction. In this -country, where sickness is so rife, it is impossible to keep an efficient -gun team together for any length of time. Old hands slip away each week, -and men to replace them have endlessly to be instructed in the intricate -mechanism of the gun whenever halt gives opportunity. In the afternoon -out for a hunt, to keep fit, and to look for buck meat, chiefly for -porter food, as their ration issue is very short. But to-day I searched -without success, principally through having a local native with me who -purposely, or foolishly, took me over what proved to be very poor game -country. Nearing camp on the way home, I shot four of those delicious -table birds—the wild guinea-fowl, which I have—wanting a shot gun—taken -to shooting with our ·303 service rifle; which indeed now serves for the -killing of anything from a partridge upwards. - -Next day, still wanting meat, I rode out on horseback and, with the -assistance of my porter followers, brought in the meat of four Reedbuck. -On the 28th of September I again went out with the same purpose, and -secured three Waterbuck, animals about the size of a mule and of the -same dark mouse colour. In this way were the natives tided over some bad -ration days. - -Before passing on, I must mention a strange incident that occurred last -night. A great pack of hyenas, like a pack of timber wolves, came from -the bush to the east, right through the centre of the camp, snarling and -howling and fighting at our very hut doors as they passed, arousing the -whole camp to wakefulness and astonishment with their gruesome, fiendish -uproar. The camp, in pitch darkness, was a regular wolf garden for some -minutes, ere the last of the howling, quarrelling mob had gone through, -and passed beyond the camp. Why such a thing occurred no one could tell -next morning; the impression given was that the whole band was chasing -something, a wounded buck perhaps, or one or two outcasts of their own -kind; but, in any case, they were so intent on their business that they -knew no fear of our presence, for they went through our camp, in their -wild excitement, just as if they were going down a main city street, -though in ordinary temperament such surroundings would have filled them -with the greatest suspicion and fear. - -So much for the small events of bush life while we lay at Tulo. - -After the usual reorganising, preparatory to abandon a camp we had been -settled in for some days, we left Tulo in the early morning of 30th -September, and trekked forward to Nkessa’s, _en route_ for Kissaki; -there to take over the positions captured some time ago by South African -forces, in conjunction with operations on this side. - -Meantime we had learned that we were to remain on in the country, a -reduced but a hard-dying Imperial unit, though in the latter months of -this year a great many exhausted white troops were sent back to better -climes—I believe, in all, some 12,000, the larger number of whom, -excepting a battalion of the Loyal North Lanes, and the 2nd Rhodesians, -had landed in the country in the early part of the year. These troops -were replaced, in time, by newly raised battalions of King’s African -Rifles, and by the Nigerian Brigade—all of them native regiments, -accustomed to the hot African climate. - -[Sidenote: ADVANCE TO RUFIJI POSTPONED] - -The advance to the Rufiji had by this time been definitely postponed, -and our command was now concerned in holding the Mgeta River front at -all vital points, and in patrolling, continuously and alertly, the -intervening country from post to post. Our battalion was ordered to -Kissaki Fort, and to Camp A—the old Arab fort of Kissaki, and about -two miles south of the present fort. In taking up these positions -we were on the extreme right of the Mgeta front, a front that lay -virtually east and west along the course of the river. Our camp at Old -Kissaki was within a square compound, walled in by an ancient hedge of -impenetrable, needle-leaved cactus. Within the compound were some old -stone foundations of long-demolished buildings, and in the centre an old -unused stone-built well. Outside the compound a road ran in from the east -to the very entrance of the square, to turn off abruptly there and head -north on the way to New Kissaki Fort. The road outside the compound, -in both directions, was bordered with solid-looking avenues of large, -thick-leaved mango trees, while underneath those trees, on the road from -the east, nestled the shaded grass huts of a score or two of peaceful -natives. In the neighbourhood of the fort some land was cultivated, but -where not, it grew dense and rank, with tall grass and low bush. In the -big rains of February—April the entire country adjacent to the river is -two or three feet under water, say the natives; and they tell of how -they then go to live in the hills. This locality had a considerable -native population, and their huts and mealie patches are to be found at -intervals near to the banks of the river along its course. - -[Illustration: NATIVE KRAAL.] - -[Sidenote: PEACEFUL NATIVES AT KISSAKI] - -These native habitations have with them a certain human homeliness, a -certain attractiveness, that is altogether foreign. Picture a group of -tall, full-bodied trees with thick foliage, dark and green, from which -issues the pensive, melodious “co-coo-oo” of African doves toward the eve -of a throbbing, sun-scorched day, when the air is cooling, and you are -fortunate to have leisure to notice that the scenes and the sounds are -pleasant and restful. These are the mango tree (Mwembe)—trees of blessed -shade against the hot sun, and trees that, when the leaves are ready to -fall, in October or November, give a rich harvest of delicious mango -fruit. - -It is here, close to their sheltering shade, that the native huts are -grouped; huts with a great proportion of steep roof of weather-darkened -grass, and with low squat walls of baked reddish mud. Here naked children -play around the tree-trunk roots, in the shade, while old shrivelled-up -women, or labouring wives, together under the hut-eaves, croon their -soft Swahili folk-songs, in tune with the doves in the trees, in tune, -indeed, with all that is African. About the habitations are some patches -of cultivation—a not extensive irregular area of ground cleared, without -choice of fair angles or straight lines, in any old haphazard way, -wherever the bush could most easily be cleared, or where the soil held -most richness and moisture. Here and there in the clearing stands a great -wintry looking, sparsely leaved wild fig tree (Mcuyu), a landmark to -the eyes of all. On those clearings are grown millet (Mtama) and maize -(Mahindi), which is the harvest of the native—his bread, as it were, his -chief staple food. Part of the crop is standing, twice the height of man, -tall, clustering reed-canes with long ribbon leaves and bending, burdened -seed-heads, caught into motion, and rustling in the light, undulating -wind. Here, moreover, from the neighbouring bush, numerous doves fly, -swift-winged and grey, to feed on the ground among the stems; to search -out the broken heads that have fallen, or to perch, with some effort to -balance, on swinging plant top to plunder the ripened head. Part of the -crop has been cut as need required, and, in the open, the stem-strewn -stubble lies, straw brown, and level, and tinder dry. - -Such is the common aspect of the native habitations in this neighbourhood. - -Within the compound we built our huts of shelter—for owing to transport -difficulties we never had tents—and strongly entrenched the perimeter -against attack. Water we carry from the river, which is about half a mile -south down a dusty track between bushes; and since this same water is -essential to existence here, vigilant pickets guard the river drift, day -and night. - -Here at Camp A, as the old fort was designated, we had a period of heavy -duties, busily fortifying the position, while rations became shorter and -shorter. - -[Sidenote: UNDER-FED, UNDERCLOTHED SOLDIERS] - -On 3rd October I record: - -Another day of fatigues. Every one more overstrained than usual, for -we are now in low country that is excessively hot and relaxing. It is -difficult to keep up good spirits all round. Unfortunately there is no -ration improvement, and no word of fresh kit coming, of which all are -much in need. Notice shirtless men in camp, with badly sun-burned backs, -and men on the march without socks. One sees, in the brave suffering of -men, many things in these days to make one’s heart sore and sad. To-day -General Sheppard, the man who has won the popularity of our men, and of -all, visiting the camp from Dakawa, paraded the remnant of our force and -spoke encouragingly of the ration shortage, thanking all for enduring the -hardships so cheerfully, and promising at least some improvement in four -days’ time. - -At this time, too, most men are without even the solace of tobacco, -having run completely out of it, though some tackle the crude native -stuff, and make of it cigarettes by rolling it in paper or in dry -mealie-cob sheaths. At best this was a hot, rank smoke which some could -put up with, but which many had to forgo, after a brave trial or two. - -But light may glint through even the worst of shadows, and a day or two -later some parcels reached camp from home, and priceless were they to -their lucky recipients. I wish those at home who had sent those gifts -could have witnessed, even though it might have brought tears to their -eyes, those ragged men rejoicing over the gifts that meant so much to -them in their need, and were not to be bought for their weight in gold. -Yet, after all, they were but little things; such as a pair of socks, -some packets of Gold Flake cigarettes, a cake of soap, a candle or two, -and a few tins of sardines or biscuits. Nothing at all when you are -living in civilisation or near to it, but everything to men heart-hungry -and half-starved of any luxury for nigh on two years. - -Yes! we had our “mean” days in Africa, plenty of them. We had had them -before, we were having them here, and we are certain to experience them -again, but in all our roughing it those dark days at Kissaki cannot be -surpassed, and they were the days that found our spirits at the lowest -ebb. - -During our stay in the Kissaki area, I will ramble over some of the -incidents of daily life as they chanced to come along. If they should -appear more personal than ought to be, in my endeavour to be accurate, -through describing incidents that were known directly to me, I would like -you to forget the “I” and imagine any one of us in that character, for, -besides the regular routine of patrols, all were employed on a variety of -similar duties, arduous and otherwise, and found our little pleasures, -one in the manner of the other, when the opportunity chanced our way. - - KISSAKI, _5th Oct._ - -Carrying out orders received, to make sketch survey of Mgeta River and -neighbourhood east of drift. Found the river-banks of tall grass in many -places impenetrable, and therefore, to secure the principal bearings and -distances, I, and the two men who were with me, took to the water and -waded, waist-deep, some two miles down the centre of the broad stream. It -was, since the water was warm, not such an unpleasant proceeding as it -would appear, so long as no enemy, or crocodiles, put in an appearance; -and neither were seen. On the spits of sand on the river-side, where -they occasionally appeared, were many fresh footprints of elephant and -hippopotamus, telling that they habit this district in numbers, and haunt -the river at night and at daybreak. - -To-day fifteen German Askaris passed wide of our picket at the river -drift. In the evening, cavalry reported a company of the enemy camped -close to the drift, and additional precautions were taken in camp against -an attack. But the night passed quietly, and no attempt was made by the -enemy, to seize and hold the river-bank, as was thought they might do. -Our forces here are small—growing smaller daily through sickness—and a -strong attack of the enemy might now make our position difficult to hold. - - KISSAKI, _8th Oct._ - -[Sidenote: INCIDENTS OF CAMP LIFE] - -This afternoon one of my porters rushed excitedly into camp and -breathlessly told that three Germans were cutting the telegraph wires -on the road north of the camp. Not, on the spur of the moment, being -able to find the O.C., I went unauthorised in chase with two machine-gun -volunteers, after I had left word that I had gone to keep in touch with -the enemy, and asking that reinforcements follow on later. I found that -the enemy had been alarmed by our porters, who were in numbers in the -bush, cutting wood, and had got a start of us, but we went in pursuit -nevertheless, and after a hot chase of about three miles we came in -sight of the enemy. We had crossed the river away back, and had followed -out the chase over native tracks, and were now far over our front. In -passing a group of native kraals we learned that the enemy, who had -just passed through ahead of us, were eleven strong, so when we sighted -them, on the other side of a bare mealie-field, we paused, awaiting -developments. And while we thus lay watching under cover of some bush, up -came seven Indian cavalry, who had been sent out from camp. Immediately -they charged on the enemy, whom we pointed out to them, outpacing us -altogether down the side of the field, though we followed at a run. -I thought then that we had the raiders sure—but we were doomed to -disappointment. The enemy, before the cavalry reached them, scattered in -the bush, to the left or to the right?—the cavalry, nor we, could tell -not where—and escaped under the rank jungle cover. Reluctantly, and after -much unsuccessful searching of likely groups of bush, we gave up at dusk -and returned to camp, feeling that our little adventure had deserved a -more fitting finish. However, I think we thoroughly frightened the enemy, -for the wires were not again interfered with while we lay at Kissaki. - - KISSAKI, _15th Oct._ - -Seven German Askaris gave themselves up overnight. They report food -scarce, and also that numbers of natives are deserting and going off -west through the bush, their purpose to try to find their way back to -their homes. They also say, as we have heard before, that the German -carriers are partially bound when in camp, so that they cannot run away -in the night, if they wanted to escape. - -Then I find a few entries when all was not as it should be and a little -cry of impatience had crept in: - - KISSAKI, _16th Oct._ - -Bad night; suffering from dysentery. Weak and lay on my grass-bed all day. - - _17th Oct._ - -Little better to-day and trying to get around duties. Feeling about -“all in” now, but must stick it out with the others, and trust that the -sickness will pass off. - - _19th Oct._ - -[Sidenote: OVERSTRAINED AND LANGUISHING] - -Feeling better to-day and cheerier, but I wish, since I’ve lost patience, -that we could get along with “the Show,” and then be quit of Africa for -a time, for I have a passionate desire that we should be free to change, -just for a little, the colour and the quality of a long-familiar picture -whose strange characteristics are now indelible. Sometimes, I’m afraid, I -feel as if I was in prison, and long for the freedom of the life beyond -these prison walls. Those are times when thoughts quickly fly in and out -the old scenes—dear old familiar scenes—and they are touched now with a -deep and a sure appreciation. Would that they could stay; would that, by -the strength of their willingness, they could lift me in body over the -vast space and set me in some fair, peaceful land! But, alas! so quickly -as I write they are back again, exhausted, and fluttering in the bated -African sun-glare. Nevertheless, for the hour, I am restless as those -thoughts. This campaign, this adventure of war, has been a long Game of -Patience, and I feel mad, poor wight, at times to chuck away the cards -and run. But, after all, I know that all is as it should be, and that -the hand must be strong to win. Yet it would be a very beautiful day in -my eyes were it ever to come to pass, this pictured freedom from war and -bloodshed, though for the present it is so far down the long blind trail -of the uncertain road before me that I may but carry the memory of things -that have been, and of things that are ideal. - -So may I ponder—so may others here, though they are but thoughts that -well up for a moment, and then fade away into the far distance of space, -where, like the setting sun, or the mists on the hills, they may mingle -with the mysteries of Beyond. However, I have paused long enough with -such thoughts, and will leave them now, perhaps a little reverently, and -go on with the record of other days for neither thought nor the span of -a day can hold steadfast for long, without the intervention of onward -passing time, and change to other scenes. - - KISSAKI, _3rd Nov._ - -[Sidenote: SEEKING A ROADWAY THROUGH HILLS] - -I am back in camp again, after being away seven days on reconnaissance -up into the Ulugúru mountains, to try to find a suitable track, back -over the hills to Matombo, for porter transport during the approaching -rains, when the low road, via Tulo, will be flooded. My party was made -up of privates Taylor and Wilson, six native carriers, and a shrewd old -native who was supposed to know the country, and, contrary to usual -experience, did know it. We found the outermost point of our journey at -Kasanga, overlooking Matombo, and high up in the mountains—elevation, -3,900 feet—amongst majestic hill-slopes and fair deep valleys which -were cultivated by the numerous inhabitants of the hills, who dwelt -everywhere, in their little bits of “crofts,” like the ancient highlander -of mediæval ages. We were two days out from camp when we found ourselves -in this land of plenty, and land of great beauty; for the scenery -surpassed anything we had previously seen in Africa. Up in the mountain -heights the air was cool, almost cold; mists fitfully swept over the -peaks and dropped like waterfalls into the valleys; it rained, then -cleared again—all ever-changing the picture, and the lights and shades on -the mountain slopes, and in the valleys—truly it was a most enchanting -country. The trail outward, up hill and down valley, and along the line -of least resistance, proved to be thirty-one miles in distance, all -of which was measured by counting the paces as we trudged along, and -surveyed by many compass bearings. From such data I was able completely -to map the route, on my return to camp, and this was the manner in which -I carried out all such work, when detailed information was wanted. - -[Sidenote: ELEPHANTS] - -On the return journey, after descending from the highest ranges, and when -drawing away from the last of the cultivated area, the party encountered -a small herd of elephant feeding amongst bamboos, and loudly breaking -their way along a wide valley bottom. Taylor and I, both armed with -·303 rifles, cut off the track and went to try to get a shot at the -beasts—both very keen to bag an elephant. Successfully we worked up-wind -on them, and finally drew near to two animals partly hidden in the fringe -of the bamboo belt. I doubted the killing capacity of our rifles, but, -when we fired, it transpired that both animals dropped—though in the -thick cover, for the moment, we couldn’t be sure of the full effect of -our shots—one dead, and the other emitting the most dreadful trumpet -blasts, that echoed and re-echoed, like thunder, in the enclosed valley. -The wounded animal could, apparently, not run away, but we dared not, -meantime, go any nearer to him, in case he should charge us down in the -tall, tangled grass, where, for us, running was well-nigh impossible. -Therefore we decided to leave him for a time, and return to where we -had left Wilson and the porters. We found our porter loads scattered -broadcast on the track, but not a black was to be seen, for, at the -trumpeting of the wounded elephant, they had scattered and fled in -mortal terror. Wilson, who was armed with a revolver only, and could not -take part in the shooting, in the midst of the uproar had been, while -standing on the track, almost knocked down by the rush past of a startled -Waterbuck. We shouted for the porters, and, one by one, they appeared, -reluctantly, from various directions, to be chaffed and laughed at. They -were all wildly excited when we said we had one or two elephants shot, -and lying in the bamboos below. Taylor and I had both been suffering from -malaria throughout the day—brought out by the cold in the hills—so we -decided on a drink of tea to refresh us, and hurried the boys about it, -while excited talk ran high. Twenty minutes later, though we could still -hear an occasional movement in the bamboos, we decided to venture down to -our quarry, but nothing on earth would tempt any of the blacks to come. -Soon I saw our quarry, badly wounded, but still able to move about a bit. -A moment later I put the elephant down like a log, with a fatal bullet, -and we could hear him venting great sobbing breaths as life gave out. We -now ventured close up, and saw him lying on his side with all legs out. -Now and again his huge head raised, but only to relax to the ground -again. By and by he was quite still, and then we went up to him. We were -looking at him, highly delighted, since it was our first elephant, when -Wilson cried “Look out!” pointing, as he did so, to our right. We wheeled -round to see, indistinctly through the canes and grass, the head and the -great forward-thrust ears of an elephant quite close to us—I fired, and -again rang out that appalling trumpet cry. Soon, as all was quiet, we -went forward cautiously, to exclaim our surprise when we found a great -cow elephant dead—killed by one of our first shots—and a young bull -fatally wounded beside her. The wounded animal was dispatched, and, after -some trouble, and assurances that there was not another elephant alive -in Africa, we persuaded the black boys to venture down, and to start -cutting out the tusks from the skull base with their long-bladed, heavy, -wood-chopping knives. I left them, then, to get under the shade of a -tree, and to roll myself in my blanket, for by this time I was absolutely -exhausted, and in high fever. Water had been found near-by, and I had -given orders that we would camp here till the morning. I hazily remember -looking out of my blanket about 5 p.m., when the sun was lowering, to -see the tusk trophies lying close to me and the native boys, “happy as -kings,” smoking huge pieces of elephant trunk, placed on bamboo racks -over well-fed fires. - -Next day, in the morning before we moved on, troops of natives began to -arrive from the hills to cut up, and smoke, and part roast, the elephant -meat—to carry it off, when ready, to their homes. It was good to see -their simple rejoicing at securing such plentiful food. - -On one other occasion I ran across elephants when on reconnaissance -work. This was about six miles south-west of Kissaki, at hot springs at -the northern end of Magi-ya-Weta hill. I had been out looking over the -country, with the view to finding a road route, when I found that large -herds of elephant had been recently at the water below the springs, and -in some places had wrecked the bush-forest when feeding—for an elephant, -if wanting to reach the upper growth, thinks nothing of grasping a -tree-trunk, and pulling downwards with his mighty weight (a large -elephant weighs about seven tons) until the tree, which has commonly a -diameter of six to eight inches, snaps off like a broken match, a yard or -two above the ground. - -On my return to camp from reconnaissance I happily received permission -to go out again in quest of the elephants; and set out next day with my -fellow-officer, Martin Ryan—a Rhodesian, who was an experienced elephant -hunter. - - KISSAKI, _5th Dec._ - -[Sidenote: AN ELEPHANT HUNT] - -[Sidenote: TWO FINE ELEPHANTS KILLED] - -Left camp at 6 a.m., Captain Ryan, self, and nine natives. We camped -about a mile from the springs at 12 noon. On viewing the ground, which -was new to Ryan, we decided to make the noon camp our base, and here left -six of the boys when we started out again at 3 p.m. About 4.30 p.m., -when still searching for the large fresh track of bull elephant, we had -the extraordinary luck to see three large elephants, with fine tusks, -coming along the edge of a belt of forest, on our right flank and towards -us. Ryan, beckoning to me, immediately set out after them—after he had -dropped a handful of dust to test the wind—and, crouching and running, -we were soon very close to them, while the short-sighted brutes, intent -on feeding as they moved along in single file, were still unaware of -our presence. When at not more than fifteen yards from our quarry, Ryan -dropped on his knees, and fired on the elephant opposite him (the centre -one of the three), trying to get in the brain shot, just in front of the -ear. On the report of Ryan’s shot the rear elephant cleared off the way -it had come, while the leading elephant swung wide and then crossed back, -at full run, attempting to rejoin its companion. This elephant I now -gave my attention to—for I had hesitated, while the huge bulk of Ryan’s -elephant interrupted my view—and got in four shots which apparently -had no effect, though I felt fairly certain that the second and fourth -shots had been true. I followed the brute at a run, but, for the moment, -couldn’t find trace of him where he had disappeared in thicker forest. -Meantime Ryan’s elephant had recovered, and had got away with six shots -in him, delivered at hand-to-hand range; so I rejoined my comrade, to -find him empty-handed and fearing he had “mulled” his chance. However, we -now set about tracking his elephant over ground very difficult to follow -tracks on, as it was hard and dry, and strewn with dead leaves, and had -been trampled over recently by numerous elephants. Again and again we -went off on a false track, until Ryan, whose keen eye was looking for -such minute signs as a single freshly crushed leaf, or a small broken -twig, stem, or grass, would declare he was at a loss once more. At -last, nearing dusk, Ryan said, “We’ll have one more try and then go to -camp,”—and the “one more try” found our prey, outstretched and dead, -under the trees of a thick growth of forest. He was a great brute with a -splendid pair of tusks, the largest Ryan had ever secured, and this was -his fifty-seventh elephant. A few measurements I took next day were: - - ft. in. - Length—from snout of trunk to root of tail 19 3 - Length of trunk 6 6 - Height to shoulder 10 6 - Girth of body 18 0 - Length of tusks 6 1½ - Weight of tusks, 58 lb. and 59½ lb. = 117½ lb. - -[Illustration: A GOOD BAG: 268½ LB. OF IVORY.] - -We returned to camp highly delighted with our success, and reached it -with difficulty in the dark. On the way to camp we encountered a cow -elephant feeding in a swamp, and Ryan took considerable pains to pass -it, at some distance, without being detected, for he was afraid that if -it had a calf and scented danger, it would charge, and prove a furious, -fearless brute. I, in my ignorance, would, perhaps, not have foreseen -danger there, but it afterwards made me think a bit of the risk of -elephant-hunting, when I saw this seasoned hunter treating a single -animal with such great respect and care. But Ryan told me that you may -only have to make a mistake once, and pay the full penalty of it with -your life. He said there are few men, who have hunted elephants long, -who are not in the end caught; and long is his list of those who have -been killed in Rhodesia by an enraged elephant, at the far end of their -hunting days. - -We could hear many elephants moving near camp during the night—a herd of -cow elephants, Ryan conjectured, for at this season the bulls roam singly -or in very small numbers. - -At daybreak next morning we set out for the scene of yesterday’s -adventure, taking all the boys with us. On reaching our quarry we -started the natives to break in the skull to the root of each tusk, an -undertaking that, even with axes that we had brought for the purpose, -kept the boys incessantly labouring for nigh on two hours, so hard and -so great are the bones of an elephant’s head. Meantime, I and a native -had gone off to try to track my elephant, starting from the point of -shooting and working out to where I’d last seen him. Soon, following his -track step by step, we found he had swung to the right, and I then knew -I had overrun him yesterday. In a quarter of an hour more, great was my -joy to come on him stone dead, not 500 yards from where Ryan’s elephant -lay. Again he proved to be all that he had looked (for Ryan had yesterday -declared the leading elephant to be the best one), a grand old bull, with -a beautiful pair of tusks, weighing, it later proved, 74 lb. and 77½ lb., -= 151½ lb., and measuring 6 ft. 5½ in. in length. He was shot through -the lungs, and his right hind-leg was crumpled up under him, so probably -he was hit somewhere there also, though it was, of course, impossible to -move him and see. - -We got back to camp in the late afternoon with our loads of ivory, which -took six men to carry, and next day trekked to Kissaki, where our arrival -with such fine trophies caused much interest and not a little excitement. - -[Sidenote: PREPARING TO ADVANCE AGAIN] - -The last weeks of the year 1916 marked various activities on our front, -in preparation for another advance. Trees were felled in large numbers in -the river neighbourhood, and with such crude timber more than one stout -bridge was thrown across the Mgeta River, opposite our camps. - -Away, even to Kirengwe, ten miles west of the old boma, a party of us -went out to cut a twelve-foot road through an otherwise impenetrable -forest belt, in preparation for a wide flank advance. In those last -weeks of the year, also, some of us did considerable reconnaissance -work, and were interested in gaining as much knowledge as possible of -the enemy’s country across the river, particularly in the direction of -Wiransi hill, which was on the enemy’s line of retreat from Dakawa. - -Supplies, too, had improved; and our forces were strengthened and -augmented by other units. Captain Selous, who had been invalided home to -England some months before, arrived in camp on the 16th of December with -a draft of 150 fresh men; and at a time when our effective strength was -very much reduced through sickness and exhaustion. - -Selous looked hale and hearty, and the grand old man he was. How fine -an example of loyalty he gave, in thus, at his great age, returning -again to the front to fight his country’s battles! It was pleasant to -see him back amongst us again, for his own sake, and for the additional -joy of hearing directly of the old country, and of how we were faring -in the great war at home. Of course talk drifted to hunting, and we had -to exchange news since last we met: he of a large butterfly collection -which he had collected in the first year and had taken home, and we of -our hunting since he left. Meantime machine-gun porters were building -the Bwana M’Kubwa (the Big Master) a grass “banda,” and soon Selous was -comfortably sheltered among us. I mention this because it was here, at -the old Kissaki boma, that Selous was destined to have his last brief -rest from travel, his last sleep in comfort, ere he met his death on the -field of battle some two weeks later. - -On the 20th of December it was known that a move was anticipated, and -preparations for trekking were commenced. It was decided, in due course, -that we advance on the 27th, but on that date, and on the day previous, -heavy rains fell and the move was postponed, while at the same time it -was reported that, owing to the storm, our heavy guns were stuck on -the road beyond Tulo. If rains continued it would be most unfortunate. -Undoubtedly the wet season was near, and, I remember, Selous had grave -doubts of the weather at this period, and feared that the whole operation -might be stopped, for he knew the swift change the big rains would bring -about, and how flooded and impassable the country would become. However, -after five days of rain, the weather cleared somewhat, and we had orders -on New Year’s Eve that to-morrow the Mgeta position would be attacked. - -Meantime, on the 30th, a column, under General Beves, moved through our -camp, _en route_ to Kissaki Fort and thence to Kirengwe, to advance, away -on the right flank, on Mkalinso on the Rufiji River. - -[Sidenote: ATTACK ON TWENTY-MILE FRONT] - -The early morning of New Year’s Day found our forces across the river -at points along a wide twenty-mile front, and attacking the enemy’s -elaborate entrenchments wherever they were known to exist. - -Under the direction of General Sheppard, the fighting on our column took -place opposite Dakawa. Part of the force made a frontal attack on the -enemy’s first-line trenches, and the remainder, after crossing the river -by the new bridge south of our camp, advanced from a westerly direction, -and successfully intercepted the enemy in their retirement from their -first line on to their second line. Here hand-to-hand fighting ensued, -and the foiled enemy Askaris three times charged with fixed bayonets in -their attempts to break through in ordered formation, but in all they -were defeated and scattered in the bush, in the end to escape in disorder. - -The 130th Baluchis did splendidly in this fighting and bore the brunt -of the attack. Losses on both sides were severe, as a result of the -closeness and the fierceness of the fighting. Toward noon the fighting -on our front had eased off, and, with the enemy scattered and in full -retreat in the bush, we continued southward on the Behobeho road, camping -at 11.30 p.m., when the column had advanced some fifteen miles, and was -in touch with our force in occupation of Wiransi: for a small detachment, -travelling through the bush the previous night, had surprised and -captured Wiransi early in the day, taking some white prisoners and some -stores. - -During the day operations to our east had been progressing with equal -success. On the centre General Cunliffe, with the Nigerians, had -advanced from Nkessa’s out to Kiderengwe, clearing the enemy from the -strong entrenchments before him on the south bank of the Mgeta River. - -On the left flank, a column under General Lyall made a hard cross-country -trek in crossing westerly from Kiruru to cut the Duthumi—Kiderengwe road, -on reaching which they intercepted enemy retiring from before the central -force. Among other incidents during the fighting, a company from this -column charged and captured one of the renowned 4·1 Koenigsberg guns. - -[Sidenote: MGETA RIVER IN OUR HANDS] - -Thus evening found the whole network of entrenchments on the Mgeta River -front—so long the halting-place of operations—completely in our hands, -and the enemy in full retreat. - -The night of 1st January passed uneventfully. Bugleless, drumless -“_Réveillé_”—silent as always in enemy country—was at 4.30 a.m. and -we trekked soon afterwards, but only into Wiransi, where we halted -until 4 o’clock in the evening; then continuing, we advanced out on -the Behobeho track some three to four miles, before striking off -south-westerly through tall grass and fairly open bush in the direction -of the Fuga hills. Aided by the light of a full moon, the column kept -on until midnight, when the hitherto level bush became more uneven, -and thick bush belts were encountered among low hills and “dongas” of -rough gravel surface. Halt was called in a fairly clear space of tall -grass, but almost immediately exclamations of pain and acute irritation -were heard on all sides from much-provoked individuals, and the air was -literally full of abuse—we had camped among a swarm of fighting ants, who -straightway attacked the bare legs and arms and faces of everyone, in no -half-hearted manner, but with all the malice of their angered millions. -It was suggested that we move to another camping-ground at once, but no -order came to that effect, and by and by, when the attacks abated, we -dropped off to sleep, one by one, too tired to continue to kill the more -vengeful of the ants that still bit deep into quivering weather-toughened -skins. - -Next day we continued on, but made progress slowly in the neighbourhood -of Mount Fuga, hampered by river-beds and their precipitous descents -and ascents. We put in a trying day’s trek, considerably exhausted by -the heat and oppressive atmosphere of the enclosed bush, and finally -made camp at dusk between Mount Fuga and Behobeho—which was known to be -occupied by the enemy. - -In conjunction with our force a column to the east are advancing on the -Behobeho track, and we heard that column in action to-day. We, on our -part, now outflank the enemy from the west. - -On 4th January we moved before daylight, and slowly headed in toward -Behobeho. An hour or two later we made a prolonged halt, and lay -hidden under cover of the bush in widely extended formation, while -north-east we could hear the other column in heavy action. Anxiously -we waited—impatiently—but no enemy fell into the ambush. After a time -scouts, who had been watching the track which was but a short distance -ahead, hurriedly reported that enemy in scattered forces were retiring -along it. We then moved forward on the track-road, to take up positions -closely viewing it. As we drew near to the road some enemy were seen -approaching. On these we immediately opened machine-gun and rifle -fire, surprising them completely, and inflicting severe casualties. -Notwithstanding this they retaliated, gamely enough for a little, but -our firing wore them down, and soon those that remained were silent, -and fleeing in the bush. We were now astride the road in the rear of -enemy forces, but to the wily foe, aided by the nature of the country, -this only meant the brief blocking of their line of retreat. They would, -and did, avoid the danger in their path by taking to the wide area of -vacant bush to the east of the track, and scattered there to meet at some -prearranged rendezvous, in a distant zone of safety. - -[Sidenote: TRYING FIGHT AT BEHOBEHO] - -[Sidenote: F. C. SELOUS KILLED IN ACTION] - -Meantime, having cut on to the track very close to the village of -Behobeho—which we later learned harboured a large German camp—a lively -action soon developed with forces entrenched before the village. Directly -north of the level ground on which Behobeho is situated, there are some -low, gravel-covered ridges, facing the village, and those we advanced on -to, and there a line was established, while fierce fighting continued -for some hours, with our men lying on the almost red-hot ground of the -ridge crests, beneath a scorching, merciless sun. Men who had been -exposed to African sun for nigh on two years, and were skin-hardened and -browned to the colour of leather, nevertheless suffered serious sunburn, -and were blistered and peeled like delicately skinned children, on the -following day, so great had been the heat reflected from the white gravel -crystals on which they had lain. It was a trying fight in other uncommon -ways, for, though we were in fair positions against the enemy before -the village, we were fully exposed to sniping from the tall trees which -shaded the village, and we suffered a considerable part of our casualties -on that account. It was here that Captain Selous was killed, when -commanding his company in attack. His death caused a deep-felt whisper -of gravity and regret to pass along the line of faithful soldiers, who -loved him in uncommon manner, as their officer and as their grand old -fearless man. Here occurred an incident which speaks volumes for Selous’s -understanding of natives—on the just consideration of whom he held strong -opinions, and a broad generous view of kindliness toward untutored -humanity in any form, tempered with the latent authority of a strong -man. When Selous was killed, his native servant, Ramazani—who had been a -gun-bearer of Selous’s before the war—was overcome with grief and swore -to avenge his master’s death, and through the remainder of the engagement -he exposed himself in absolute fearlessness in his grim rage against the -foe. At the end of the day he claimed with conviction that he had killed -the man who had killed his master. About 4 p.m. Behobeho was occupied, -and the enemy in full retreat to Rufiji, which was now but another day’s -march farther on. Later in the evening the eastern column, which had had -severe fighting in dislodging the enemy from entrenched positions on the -road farther back, joined our force here. At Behobeho Captain Selous -and a few of the faithful “lean brown men” were buried in the shade of -a great baobab tree. Thus the famous hunter finished a career that had -been full of great risks and great adventures, fighting for his country, -at the age of sixty-five years—seeing through his last undertaking in -Africa as, perhaps, he would have chosen it should be, for this was the -continent he had explored the outer frontiers of, more than any other -living man, and in the early days, when Africa was “darkest” Africa, and -primitive races and strange diseases far more difficult to contend with -than they are to-day. Here he had found his life’s work, and had risen to -renown; and here, on the soil of Africa, he was destined to die. - -The next four days, being wounded, I remained behind, and missed our -occupation of the north bank of the great Rufiji River. But bandaged, and -fit but for a crippled left “wing,” I was able to rejoin my battalion at -Kibambawe, and again take on my machine-gun command, which was otherwise -without an officer, since few remained fit at this stage. I found all -our forces on the banks of the Rufiji, and dug in against the enemy away -across the marsh-banked stream which, from memory, had a width of from -700 to 1,000 yards. - -The opposite bank had been subjected to searching machine-gun fire -during the first two days, and now the enemy were quiet, and to effect a -crossing of our forces we—and also the western column, which had reached -Mkalinso—were apparently but waiting the construction of rafts, and the -arrival of the row-boats which were being brought up, all this distance -inland, from Dar-es-Salaam to surmount the difficulty of bridging this -river. However, our battalion remained but three more mildly eventful -days on the Rufiji front: then, being relieved, we had to commence a -long fourteen days’ march back to Morogoro, there to enter rest-camp, -and ultimately, some time later, to be sent from Dar-es-Salaam to South -Africa to recuperate for three months at “the Cape.” - -The big rains were approaching. It transpired that they broke on 25th -January, soon after our forces had crossed and effected a lodgment on -the south shores of the Rufiji—and there active operations ended for some -months, while the country was deluged with torrential tropical rains. - -A dispatch of General Hoskins, then commanding the East Africa -Forces—since General Smuts had a few weeks previously been called to the -War Cabinet in London—stated: - - “By the 27th January the lines of communication from Mikessa - (on the Central Railway) to Kibambawe were interrupted by - the washing away of bridges and the flooding of roads, and - operations in all areas were henceforth seriously hampered by - the untimely rains. - - “In the Mgeta and Rufiji valleys roads constructed with much - skill and labour, over which motor transport ran continually - in January, were traversed with difficulty and much hardship a - month later by porters wading for miles in water above their - waists.” - -To native regiments was left the unpleasant task of “holding on” under -those dreadfully trying conditions, and there they remained, through -the months to come, marooned on their little bits of dry islands, with -flood water ankle deep around them; while we, lucky people, were out of -it for the time being, and were at last to enjoy rest and change, and -to witness, in South Africa, the civilisation and society to which our -long-bushed eyes and minds had been completely estranged for nigh on two -years. - -[Illustration: LINDI AREA] - - - - -CHAPTER VII - -THE END OF THE CAMPAIGN ON GERMAN SOIL - - -Our glorious rest of three months at “the Cape” came to an end—months -which had been filled with the joy and appreciation of men who had come -out of scenes that had borne something of nightmare into the full light -of life, among people of their own kind, in a beautiful, peaceful land. -The intellectual uplifting was supreme. Minds that were fever-weakened, -and depressed, and unresponsive—and few had not been affected by -prolonged hardship and equatorial climate—came again to life and ordinary -buoyant activity. - -But our rest was over. On 12th May, 1917, we regretfully bade good-bye -to Cape Town and travelled by train overland through the bleak Karroo -Veldt, and on to Durban, to embark again there for East Africa on -19th May. Durban had for some days been the gathering-point for this -movement, and many troops were congregated here when we arrived. Five -ships, loaded with troops and stores, made up the convoy which sailed -from Durban for East Africa, a considerable reinforcement that promised -an immediate recommencement of offensive operations now that the rainy -season was over. Then, too, on the _Caronia_, which was one of the ships -of the convoy, were General Van Deventer and General Beves, and their -staffs, hastening back to take again the field. This great liner, the -_Caronia_, was on her way to India with troops, and was only to touch -in on the East African coast, but serious combustion set in in her coal -bunkers and threatened to delay her voyage, and therefore, on nearing our -destination, those of us going to East Africa transferred to naval craft -at sea, and thenceforward proceeded to port. - -On the morning of 29th May, I and a few comrades, who had been travelling -overnight on an auxiliary cruiser, found ourselves on deck, and the ship -standing off the low white sand shore of Lindi Bay, a mile or more from -land. Thus we had again come in sight of East Africa—again we looked on -the silent land that lay before us, darkened with that unforgettable -growth of bush thicket that reached to the very borders of the sea. We -viewed the shore with mixed feelings: adventure still held an attraction -to us, but the country had, in its latent possibilities, the power to -appal the searchings of imagination, and it was with feelings more sober -than otherwise that we contemplated the land before us. For there lay the -bush-land, as it had always lain before us, an over-dark picture which no -man could surely read, though he knew, since he had seen it in another -light, and had looked at it closely, that behind the foreground in view -there was concealed the vague lines of startling drama. - -[Sidenote: LINDI] - -Meantime a small steam tug had put out of Lindi, and when this drew -alongside we boarded her, and, bidding cheery good-bye to the officers -of the cruiser, who had been brief but the best of comrades, the little -tug “jug-jugged” earnestly in for shore. Approaching shore we again -transferred—this time to a row-boat, which in turn grounded on the -shallow beach before the town; and we finally landed dry-shod on the -backs of the native crew, who waded ashore. - -Lindi, a town of some 4,500 native inhabitants, is about sixty miles -north of the Portuguese border, and about eighty-five miles south of -Kilwa (Kivenje). Lindi, before it fell into our hands, had been the -southern head-quarters of the Protectorate, and at the north end of the -town there is a large, stone-built fort and extensive barrack buildings. -Along the shore front, facing the sea, there are a number of large, -colonial, commercial buildings and residences: otherwise the town, which -extends inland from the sea, is comprised of palm-shaded streets of -grass-roofed, mud-walled huts, with an odd whitewashed hut inset here and -there—the barter-den of an Arab or Goanese trader. Lindi is low-lying -and unhealthy, as is the Lukuledi Valley, south of the town, where the -broad swamp estuary of the Lukuledi River flows into the bay. Moreover, -the brackish-flavoured well water of the town was very bad, and added to -the tremendous difficulty that was experienced in maintaining the health -of white troops in this area. Behind Lindi the ground rises to a low -hill-crest, the ridge of which runs north parallel to the coast line, and -it was along this crest, overlooking the roads inland, that our present -line terminated. In pre-war days sisal, palm oil, and rubber had been the -chief products developed in this area by settlers, and large, carefully -cultivated estates were plentiful in this neighbourhood. - -[Sidenote: VON LETTOW’S FORCES] - -At Lindi we were soon fully occupied preparing for active operations. -The main force of the enemy—excepting the smaller force near Mahenge -under Tafel, and opposed to General Northey—were now confined to a -limited area in the south-east corner of the Colony, and were facing our -forces at Lindi and Kilwa. This force, under General von Lettow-Vorbeck, -was estimated to be 4,000 to 5,000 strong. Against these forces a new -offensive began under the command of General Van Deventer, who at the -end of May relieved General Hoskins; and from June onward was carried on -relentlessly, while the enemy, with their backs to the wall, as it were, -fought desperately. - -Behind the Kitulo hill, which rose immediately west of Lindi, lay a broad -flat swamp through which crossed the Mtupiti and Ngongo Rivers on their -course to the Lukuledi estuary. Across this waste the enemy were holding -a strong line, on a nine-mile front, in the rubber plantations and bush, -with particularly strong fortifications at Schaafer’s Farm and Mingoyo -village on this line. - -On 10th June it was decided to attack, and on that day columns left Lindi -to flank widely those positions on their north and south extremes. The -force to the north, which marched inland from Lindi, was composed mainly -of a battalion of King’s African Rifles and some artillery. The force -operating south was comprised of another battalion of King’s African -Rifles, our own battalion—the 25th Royal Fusiliers—and South African -Field Artillery. Under cover of darkness the latter force was to proceed -some miles inland up the wide river estuary, and effect a landing, -if possible, in the centre lagoon of the three at the head of the -estuary, where a trolley line from Mkwaya terminated at a small timber -landing-stage. General O’Grady was in command in this area, and the -operations were carried out under his direction, and personal supervision -in the field. - -On the evening of 10th June, toward sundown, scenes that were strange, -and that must have astonished the native inhabitants, were afoot on the -water-front at Lindi. Out in the sultry, windless channel, with their -bows up-stream, lay the active-looking warships H.M.S. _Hyacinth_ and -H.M.S. _Thistle_, while between them and shore fleet motor-boats plied -busily on ordered errand. Inshore wide-beamed lighters with steam tugs in -attendance lay off the end of the shallow-draught pier, while a number of -large open boats, linked together in twos and threes by their bow ropes -and towed by motor-craft, lay outside in the current—all in readiness -to take aboard their human freight. And then, into the town marched -soldiers in fighting kit; a battalion of British infantry appearing from -the north, while black troops and some artillery came down from the -hills: all to come to a halt in a long column on the dust-thick road -on the shore front near to the pier. As dusk approached, embarkation -commenced, under naval and military direction, and under orders of strict -silence—and gradually the boats filled while the line on the road melted -away until none remained on shore!... All were aboard! and we drew off -shore and lay to in the bay waiting for darkness—an ominous force, in -their silence that was nigh to sullenness, but in reality filled with -suppressed excitement over the novelty and promise of adventure. - -We had not long to wait for darkness. Soon it crept down rapidly, as is -its habit in Africa. Under naval direction the craft then cast loose -one by one, and the dark forms on the water, each in the wake of the -other, followed silently on their way up-stream. In the lead were the -patrol launches armed with machine-guns, and some of the intermediate -motor-boats were likewise prepared for emergency. - -[Sidenote: A NIGHT LANDING] - -Hour after hour we crept up the wide stream with black, threatening -shores on either beam, and all remained quiet, and nothing stirred -on land to break the stillness of the sultry night nor our pent-up -expectancy. Our destination was eight miles up-stream. About half-way -we passed through the narrow neck between Kombe and Kala islands, and -a short time later our motor-boat, when hugging the east bank, had the -misfortune to ground on a sand-bar and hold fast. While we lay there, -phantom dark craft passed us, going up-stream and returning down. One -heard a low, tense word or two spoken across the gloom, the muffled beat -of the engines; and then the darkness swallowed everything. After some -delay and much exertion with poles and oars, we got afloat again and -proceeded, now more slowly, up-stream, keeping our course by following -a tiny bright light, like a firefly, that showed now and again in the -distance ahead, where the leaders were in the stream or had landed at an -important bend in the channel. - -About midnight, when we were still persistently working up the channel, -which had narrowed considerably, exclamations and low voices drifted to -us out of the darkness ahead. In a moment more we knew that we were at -our destination, while voices directed us to the landing-place close -on our right. It was very dark—so dark that one could at best see a -yard or two—so, groping along the boat-bottom, you got near to where a -voice said “jump,” and in doing so found yourself immersed to your very -knees in deep, holding mud through which, after you had got rifle and -equipment clear of the mess, you waded heavily ashore; no longer dry and -fairly comfortable, but wet, mud-plastered and chilled, and thoroughly -uncomfortable. - -On our arrival we learned that, at the landing, a German picket had been -alarmed and driven in, and therefore we knew that the enemy command would -soon be warned that danger threatened. - -Back from the landing there was a long, narrow, level mud-flat, clear of -the bush that bordered it blackly on either side, and here our forces -formed up as they landed. Finally, when all were accounted for and in -position, word was passed round that we were to remain here for an hour -or two, and men stretched themselves on the hard tidal-damp ground and -shivered; yet slept as only tired soldiers can sleep. - -At 3 a.m. we were up and on the move again; slowly marching up the -trolley line that led inland, in a southerly direction, toward Mkwaya. -Breaking the stillness of a bush-land that apparently lay asleep and -without inhabitant, I remember a solitary cock, at some near-by dwelling, -crowed clear and full-voiced as we neared Mkwaya; declaring habitations, -and promising the coming of dawn. Almost immediately afterwards the -first faint shade of daylight was heralded by the boom of artillery from -the direction of Mingoyo. - -[Sidenote: ARTILLERY ENGAGED] - -Overnight the monitors had moved into the estuary, and it was on H.M.S. -_Thistle_, who had nosed her way far up-stream, that the Germans opened -fire. Reply came immediately from the ships, and, as soon as it was full -daylight, they were heavily shelling all enemy positions within range. -During the action H.M.S. _Thistle_ received one disturbing direct hit, -but not a vital one, and she remained seaworthy through the action. -Aeroplanes were up all morning busily “spotting” for our guns, and -observing enemy movements as best they could in the darkly screened bush. - -[Sidenote: ZIWANI] - -Meantime, our turning-point had been reached at Mkwaya, and we now headed -westerly in the direction of the Mohambika valley, behind Mingoyo, while -the King’s African Rifles, who were an hour or so in advance of us, were -now well out on our left flank and moving parallel to us. Some two hours -later we had reached the valley crest at Ziwani, and overlooked the -Mohambika valley and across to the opposite crest where lay hidden, in -the bush and forest, the large native village of Mrweka and Schaadel’s -Farm. Large numbers of the enemy were seen, about 1,500 yards distant, -moving along the edge of the bush in rear of Mrweka, while smoke-puffs -of gun-fire from the enemy artillery could be plainly seen farther -down the valley toward Mingoyo. An advance was attempted down into -the valley, and action thereafter commenced, but the valley was found -to be almost impenetrable—a wide sugar-cane swamp in which the enemy -were already located, and which they commanded from the opposite valley -crest—and, as the left column were by this time heavily engaged and not -making progress, we were ordered, meantime, to dig in on the Ziwani crest -while the enemy kept up persistent long-range machine-gun fire on us. -Enemy soon appeared to be everywhere on our front and left, for whenever -patrols left the ridge and commenced descent into the valley they -encountered enemy in force, and were driven in. Finally, the situation -culminated when, about 2 p.m., the enemy launched a terrific attack on -our left flank and attempted to storm our position. On the left the -ground fell away, as in front, and they had crept up the valley side in -the grass and bush, until no more than thirty yards from our line—when -their fire burst on us like a thunder-clap. From then on one lost all -reckoning of time, all reckoning of everything, except that there was -something big on that kept every energy alive and working at fever speed. -In the end, toward night, we had won, and won handsomely; finally routing -the foe from their offensive at the point of the bayonet, and capturing -two of the three machine-guns which they had in the line. To add one -final trial to this grim encounter, hives of bees had been shot down -from the trees during the action, and their inmates descended on us at -the end of the day in infuriated swarms to drive us almost crazy with the -agony of their stings. They inflicted such punishment that many men could -barely see through their half-closed eyelids on the following day, while -everyone suffered from cruel yellow-poisoned face scars. - -The attack had been a tremendously bold venture on the part of the -enemy, who were, for the present, under Von Lettow in person, apparently -in large and even superior force in the neighbourhood, and it gives -an idea of their strength and desperation, and the gameness of their -fighting—which one cannot help but admire. Had we been native troops, -the result of such a daring blow might have been different; and even as -it was, one looked back and thanked God for one thing—and that was that, -even at point-blank range, the enemy’s shooting had been bad, for their -deadly sweep of fire was, in general, too high. Had they got the correct -elevation, their machine-guns alone were sufficient to deal terrible -havoc along our short, hastily and half-entrenched line. - -Meantime the column in the bush—wide on our left—had met with opposition -that they could not well break through; and no word had come in from the -inland column that was operating in the north, which was momentarily -expected to converge on to the position across the valley, and relieve -the pressure on that side; and so, for the night, there was nothing for -it but to hold on where we were. - -One had here a striking example of the difficulties of bush operations; -of the disappointments, of the almost impossible task of keeping in touch -with each force, across wide areas of dense, untouched, unfamiliar bush -miles ahead of the base. One never knows, at the commencement of a day, -the full difficulties to overcome; one can never altogether foresee the -obstacles that will be encountered to enforce delay, be it an impassable -swamp, impenetrable forest, an unbridged river, a loss of direction, or -an unknown enemy force. It has been called a difficult campaign; but the -difficulties have been so gigantic that the wonder one has is that the -men who direct it have not grown old and grey with the weight of the -anxieties imposed. - -Next morning, too late, the force on the north occupied Mingoyo and -Mrweka, for overnight, under cover of darkness, the enemy had evacuated -their positions, and had fallen back on their second line of defence -across the trolley rails at Mohambika village. - -The battalion remained the day at Ziwani, and the following day, leaving -other troops to hold the line, we crossed the valley and proceeded by -stages, overland, back to Lindi. The enemy force, through the sudden -appearance of new companies on this front, apparently now outnumbered -ours, and it was, it appeared, necessary to hold on and recuperate our -forces, as far as possible, which were becoming increasingly difficult -to keep up to reasonable establishment owing to overwhelming sickness -and lack of proportionate reinforcements. Also, our column was operating -in conjunction with the Kilwa column, which had a much longer distance -to advance before both would close in on Massassi, the enemy base of -operations. Therefore those causes accounted for our again “holding on” -for a period at Lindi. - -[Sidenote: SICKNESS RIFE] - -On 15th June we were again back in Lindi. A week later the battalion was -experiencing a fell wave of coast fever, which thinned our ranks at an -appalling rate. On 26th June the S.M.O. inspected the men remaining on -duty, to inquire into their general physique and endeavour to trace the -plague to any local fault, and at that time less than half our fighting -strength were on parade. Other units were suffering in similar manner, -but were losing men somewhat less rapidly. Next day camp was moved to -higher ground, above Lindi, but though sickness abated it still continued -to find daily victims, and it was heart-breaking to be thus weakened of -our fighting strength; more especially as we were not long returned from -our rest at the Cape, which it had been thought would surely resuscitate -our health for further campaigning. But looking back now it is apparent -that the hardships of the first two years in Africa had sapped far more -than the mere surface strength of the men, and the short change, though -it brightened everyone outwardly, had not time to repair completely the -debilities of thoroughly exhausted systems. Moreover Lindi, and the -Lukuledi valley, were undoubtedly the most unhealthy country it was ever -our misfortune to enter, and we had been in more than one bad area in the -past. - -On 1st July I received orders to take up a position on Mtanda Plateau, -with fifty rifles and two machine-guns, and there to establish an outpost -one and a half mile from Lindi on the Noto Road, defending the approach -on Lindi from the north-west, and north, where coast tracks led away to -Kilwa, on which the enemy might retire, from before the Kilwa column, -and here congregate. Mtanda Plateau was a broad ridge, overlooking Lindi -and the sea from its south-east bank, and, crossing to the other side, -where the ground again fell away to low country, its north-west aspect -overlooked great distances of hill-broken, bush-covered country. The -plateau was a jungle of breast-high grass and low bush, within a forest -of stately mango trees. - -Routine on the outpost was to have strong, alert pickets posted near the -road at night, and, through the day, to patrol the country out before -us, sometimes to an outward-bound distance of ten miles. In view of the -possibility of a night attack, on one or two dark nights the monitor -H.M.S. _Severn_ experimented with her flash-lights, turning them on to -our position from where she lay in the bay, and weirdly those lights, lit -up the jungle. - -We remained twenty-four days on this outpost, but experienced in that -time no untoward incident. One or two German natives came in and gave -themselves up, claiming at the same time to be porters, but sometimes -such deserters had the military bearing of Askaris, and no doubt were -really such, and had discarded their equipment and rifle in fear of -terrible punishment for having fought against us—which was a belief -taught them by their white masters. - -[Sidenote: ON OUTPOST AT LINDI] - -On the morning of 25th July the detachment evacuated the outpost, and -rejoined the battalion at Lindi in preparation to again resume the -offensive. On the 26th the battalion trekked from 4.30 a.m. until 2 p.m. -via Naitiwi, to Mayani, a planters’ station, having then come thirteen -miles, by track, out into the country of our June operations. - -We stayed a few uneventful days at Mayani, and on the night of 1st -August moved on into Mingoyo, there to join the column, on the eve of -an offensive against the enemy, who were holding a front which had its -centre before Mohambika village, on the trolley line, its extreme north -flank on Kipanya Ridge, and its extreme south flank on Tandamuti Hill: in -all a front of some four miles. The next day we were in action, which I -can, perhaps, best describe in quoting the following notes: - -[Sidenote: FIGHTING AGAINST LARGE FORCES] - -One a.m., night of 2nd August, up and getting ready to move. Left Mingoyo -at 3 a.m.—our battalion, with the main column, which was to operate on -the left flank, and which advanced slowly through thick bush in the -direction of Tandamuti Hill. Enemy first encountered about 6 a.m. Engaged -in force 9 a.m. and 3/4 King’s African Rifles in attack. They were a -newly recruited battalion, and this was their first time in action, -and the wear of attack told heavily on them, particularly when finally -opposed to the fortifications on Tandamuti Hill crest. It was then that -two companies of our unit went forward to reinforce the front line. -They lost no time in charging the enemy position, but found themselves, -ultimately, against a dense, thorn-built boma fence, through which they -could not break and, under telling fire, they swung off to the left -flank, and withdrew. The battalion machine-guns were now established -fifty yards from the boma, after casualties had lost me four of the most -able and invaluable gunners, and thenceforward the boma and fort were -raked with heavy machine-gun fire, and shelled by Stoke’s guns; until -finally, about 3.30 p.m., the enemy response was completely silenced -within the fort, while German bugles rapped out their rallying calls -in the valley in the rear of the hill. But orders were now received -to retire, as the other two columns on the right had been held up; in -fact, the central force, operating immediately south of the trolley -line near to Mohambika, had even been forced to retreat, by weight of -the numbers opposed to them. This was indeed a day brimful of adventure -and expectancy, while everyone was aware of the great strength opposed -to us, and the desperation of the fighting. But this was not the end of -it. Soon after commencing the retirement heavy firing broke out in our -original rear. It transpired that Kraut, in command of a company, had -broken into our line of communication, and had attacked and scattered the -whole of the 1st-line transport porters and their escort. The defenceless -porters had flung away their loads and fled, leaving everything to the -mercy of the enemy, and we encountered inconceivable disorder on the -baggage-littered track when we came along. But, just before reaching this -point, we, too, were pounced on by an ambush on the left, and terrific -firing again ensued until the enemy were driven off. We then came to -the advanced Field Hospital, where it was found the German raiders had -entered, and even had had the audacity to order the native orderlies to -supply the German whites with tea, while they removed all the quinine and -such medicines of which they were in need. But the whites had treated the -wounded with consideration, and, with revolvers drawn, had ordered their -wildly excited blacks to stand clear of any possibility of interference. - -[Illustration: TANDAMUTI.] - -Finally we marched wearily into Ziwani, to camp about 11 p.m., very -tired after being twenty-two hours on our feet. So ended another day of -battle, one of hard fighting and heavy casualties, and one which goes -to show that at periods we had not got it all our own way by force of -numbers, nor by superior fighting qualities, and that the final defeat -of the enemy was the result of many a hard knock, given and taken. As -General Van Deventer said, later, in a dispatch dated 21st January, -1918:—“The completion of the conquest of German East Africa could only be -brought about by hard hitting and plenty of it”—which has, has it not? -much of the theory which General Foch had on the battle-fields of France. - -On 9th August preparations were again afoot to resume the offensive, and -a column under Colonel Taylor—which contained, in part, the remnants of -the 8th South African Infantry, lately landed in Lindi from farther up -the coast—left about midday to strike east into the Lukuledi River, and, -thence, southward, to be in a position to outflank widely Tandamuti on -the following day. - -[Sidenote: TANDAMUTI FRONT CLEAR] - -On 10th August our force advanced up the Mohambika Valley in touch with -the trolley line, which was on our right. At evening we camped west of -the old Tandamuti position, having passed Mohambika village and come -to our halting-place without encountering any sustained resistance.... -On the morning of this day at 7 o’clock, and again recommencing at 1 -p.m., Tandamuti Hill was heavily shelled by the long-range guns of the -monitors _Severn_ and _Mersey_, from where they lay up the river estuary -some eight to ten miles to the north-east, and also by the howitzers of -the Royal Garrison Artillery, and the field guns of the South African -Artillery. And this cannonade, and the threat of impending attack of -the same severe nature as in the preceding week, apparently decided -the enemy’s retirement, for by the evening we had advanced and were in -possession of all the positions which we had fought so hard for a week -before. Next day, but now leaving the trolley track and striking deeply -into the bush, the advance continued, and during the forenoon we joined -in with the left column, which then preceded us in a southerly direction, -through tall grass and much bad bush. Light engagements occurred from -time to time with the advance guard, but the column kept moving on, -though progress was painfully slow, while every new aspect of the country -ahead was being carefully investigated, for well was it known that any -100 yards of fresh ground might hold an ambush and a trap. At the end -of a wearisome day we reached the Lukuledi River, where it flows for -some miles on a course due east, and then camped about 1½ mile west of -Narunyu, which was reported occupied by the enemy. - -_12th August._—Thoughts recall the grouse moor, and this day of days at -home, but again it passes with but memories. All porters have gone back -to bring forward rations, while we halt here near Narunyu. - -From 13th August to 18th August we remained closely in one area, where -low hills and ridges encompassed us on all sides. West of us the enemy -had established a line defending the approach to Narunyu, and our line -dug in before them, while engagements daily occurred here and in the -neighbourhood, and we were fitfully subjected to shelling by the enemy’s -artillery. - -The weather at this time broke down, and we had five consecutive days of -heavy rain, which, as we had no blankets or grass-hut shelters, made us -very cold, wet, and miserable, while during the nights we slept lying in -rain-soaked mud—a condition of things that brought out even more fever -than usual. - -[Sidenote: FIERCE FIGHTING] - -_18th August._—Overnight, under cover of darkness, part of our forces -evacuated camp and travelled northerly, and then westerly, until we -drew in to the trolley line: then we lay down and waited until early -morning. At 3 a.m. we were moving again, and the column had crossed -the open avenue of the trolley line, and were lost again in the bush, -before daybreak. All morning we moved, through truly terrible thorn-bush -country, in a south-westerly direction, thereby widely circling round -to attack the Narunyu position from the west, while our other forces, -at the camp we had left, would hold the enemy’s attention on the east. -About 11 a.m., when drawing in to the hill-crest overlooking Narunyu, -which is situated in a valley bottom, the first-second King’s African -Rifles, in the lead, encountered large forces of the enemy, and entered -into action. On their establishing a firing line, the rear of the column -was drawn in, and a perimeter was formed, for, in the thick bush we were -then in, attack might threaten from any direction. This was a wonderfully -wise and fortunate precaution, for no sooner were our lines on all sides -established than the enemy opened a determined attack on our right flank; -and, as the fight continued, fierce and sustained attacks developed -later, even in our rear and on our left. In other words, the enemy were -all around us and trying to break through our “square” in the bush. -It was a day of tremendous battle. There were, within the circle, the -first-second King’s African Rifles, 25th Royal Fusiliers, and Stoke’s -Guns, and back to back they fought, without one minute’s cease in the -deafening fusillade, until long after dark. It was here that one saw, and -realised, the full fighting courage to which well-trained native African -troops can rise. The first-second King’s African Rifles was one of the -original pre-war regular battalions, and magnificently they fought here; -and we, who were an Imperial unit, felt that we could not have wished for -a stouter, nor a more faithful, regiment to fight alongside of. About 8 -p.m. the firing ceased and we had at last a breathing space and could -hear each other speak in normal voice. But all was not yet over. At 9.30 -p.m. an enemy whistle blew sharply—and instantaneously a great burst -of enemy fire swept the square from the right flank, and from closer -quarters than before. An enemy force had crept in in the darkness and -silence, and tried to take us by surprise. But they reckoned wrongly, and -in the end, after a fierce encounter, they were driven off and silenced: -though movement and groans, from beyond our front, continued long into -the night while the enemy collected their dead and wounded. - -There was now opportunity to review the situation and its vital points: -the King’s African Rifles were very short of ammunition, and it was felt -that the situation might become serious in the event of a sustained night -attack—what ammunition could be spared was handed over to them by our -battalion. - -Casualties, after such extremely heavy fighting, were not excessively -heavy, which was undoubtedly due to the lie of the ground, for our -position was in a slight dip that could not be detected from the enemy -lines. We were out of touch with G.H.Q. and the reserve column, and a -patrol was sent out to try to get through to Head-quarters, though we had -now no fear of joining up, for we had confidence we could hold on, and -had in the fighting worn down the enemy’s will to strike. _Water_ was our -greatest need—there was none within our square. - -[Sidenote: AN ANXIOUS NIGHT] - -At last our anxieties ceased. Weary, powder-blackened, mud-filthy, -thirsty beyond the telling, the line slept fitfully through the -remainder of the night. - -Dawn found everyone standing to, and patrols investigating the bush out -in front of the lines. Some patrol fighting took place close in, but the -enemy trenches of yesterday were found to be evacuated, and the enemy -line now some 700 yards away on our right flank and front. At 9 a.m. -General O’Grady arrived in camp, and relief was felt that we were again -in communication. - -Heavy fighting had been experienced at all points yesterday, and -casualties of comrade acquaintances, in other units, were learned of with -regret. - -It was decided that we were to hold on here, and arrangements were made -to bring water to camp, while bully and biscuit would be our ration—no -tea, no cooked food, for no fire could be allowed on account of the -smoke, which would have marked our position to enemy artillery. The enemy -were shelling the square and shooting dangerously close, but were unable -to locate us exactly, or tell where their shells were landing, in the -dense bush. To-day all ranks were very exhausted after the past week of -blanketless, half-sleepless nights and the extreme strain of yesterday. - -For five days we lay in the confined square in our shallow trenches, -drinking sparingly of foul water, and holding impatiently on, while -smaller engagements went on with the enemy, who continued to invest our -front closely and right flank. Our porters had a bad time here. In time -cooked food was sent up for them from the rear, but on the first two days -it was common to see the poor creatures hungrily munching their uncooked -ration of hard rice-grains. At the end of the five days, many of them -were almost unable to walk, and could not be burdened with an ammunition -load. - -On 22nd August our battalion received orders to withdraw under cover -of night to the reserve column at the main camp back some miles on the -trolley line and west of Tandamuti—a camp which was designated C.23. - -The withdrawal was quietly accomplished, and at 9.30 p.m. we camped at -C.23. And then we had, what in the past few days we had come to dream -of—tea, tea, tea. Camp-fires were started everywhere, and we sat there -and feasted our fill of tea that tasted threefold more fragrant and -delicious than ever before, and on cooked food, warm and palatable, and -long we sat into the hours when weary heads should have been asleep. - -We remained at C.23 until 4th September, and at intervals each day were -shelled by the enemy’s long-range guns, at aggravating intervals. - -[Sidenote: TERRIBLY UNHEALTHY COUNTRY] - -A large camp had sprung up at C.23, and additional forces and additional -stores were daily arriving. But we were in terribly unhealthy country; -the air was close and oppressive, and the sun merciless; and men went -about their duties with listless bearing. The hospitals were full of -sick, and troops and porters were being evacuated in hundreds every few -days. The native African was suffering as much as if not more than the -European. The 25th suffered no less than other units, and our forces were -sadly growing smaller and smaller. - -On 4th September the battalion left C.23 and advanced to the centre and -left camps before Narunyu, to occupy the front line there; relieving the -8th South African Infantry, who were tottering with sickness and unfit -for further service in active fields. - -Here utter physical exhaustion, and fever, which had gripped me for some -time, began slowly to master endurance. For a few days I struggled on, -having just enough strength to “stand to” by the machine-guns in the -early mornings, and afterwards to direct the day’s routine. Those days -were commonplace—there was sometimes some exchange of firing at daybreak, -and on some occasions the camp was shelled; while we were gratified to -see considerable numbers of porter and Askari deserters come in and give -themselves up. - -On 5th September we had news that the Kilwa column had progressed -considerably and were at Mssinoyi River on 4th September, sixty -miles south-west of Kilwa, and some 110 miles off their ultimate -objective—Massassi. - -On 9th September I had not strength to walk, and later in the morning -I was taken to hospital. I was beaten, hopelessly overcome, though no -man likes to give in. General O’Grady came to see me when I lay on my -stretcher at the Field Hospital—perhaps the bravest man I have fought -under, and the kindest—and, in my weakness, when he had gone, I hid my -face in the gloom of the low grass hut and broke down like a woman. I -had worked under his direction many times, on reconnaissance and other -special work, when he was Chief of Staff, and when he commanded a -brigade, and now he was sorry I was _done_—and I, ah well! my heart was -breaking because I could not stay on, as he and the last of my comrades -were doing. - -[Sidenote: THE END] - -There remains little more to add. By stages I was transported by -ambulance to Lindi, and thence by sea to Dar-es-Salaam, where at the end -of September I lay for a few days dangerously ill, and was pulled through -only by the tireless care of the doctor and sisters. On 2nd October I was -borne aboard the _Oxfordshire_ and sailed for South Africa. - -My actual experience of the German East Africa campaign thus ended. -The Lindi column were, at the time of my departure, reinforced by the -Nigerians, and fighting of the same severe nature as I have described, -against Von Lettow and his concentrated forces, continued 1½ month more -in the fever-stricken Lukuledi Valley before the Kilwa and the Lindi -forces effected a junction. - -Not long after that was accomplished, on 25th and 26th November, Von -Lettow avoided final surrender by crossing the Rovuma River south-west -of Massassi, and escaped up the Luyenda River into Portuguese territory; -while Tafel’s force—of some 2,000 to 3,000—which, too late, tried to -effect a junction with the main force, was cut off, and on 28th November -surrendered unconditionally. - -On our side, there is one sorrowful disaster to record which touches this -narrative deeply. In the final action which my unit undertook—the only -one after my departure—the remnants of the band, steel-true men who had -come through everything till then, were pitted against overwhelming odds, -when covering a retirement, and fought till they were cut to pieces. - -It was a tragic ending. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII - -NATURE NOTES - - -It would be difficult to picture East Africa without her vivid abundance -of Nature, for it is “the creatures of the earth” that for ever astonish -all who enter this country of vast wildernesses and few habitations of -white men. - -In this connection I will endeavour to describe some of the forms of wild -life that were most closely associated with camp and trek during the -campaign. - -[Sidenote: NATIVES OF EAST AFRICA] - -To begin with, if I may bring them into the category of wild things, -there were the natives of the country—who aided us tremendously during -the campaign, and without whose aid it would have been well-nigh -impossible for our columns to traverse the country. Broadly speaking, -we had to deal with four distinct types of native—the Swahili-speaking -tribes, the Kavirondos, the Kikuyus, and the Masai. The Swahili-speaking -natives, whose tribes were numerous and included such fighting peoples as -the Whahamba, Diruma, and Nandi, were most generally recruited from the -coast areas; they were the most intelligent and adaptable natives in our -service. Many of them made splendid Askaris, while as trained porters, -for machine-guns, signalling sections, and stretcher-bearers, they -were extremely useful, and many thousands were utilised for such work. -Those natives were extraordinarily keen on their drills—in which they -were daily instructed, whenever opportunity arose, to ensure combined -movement without confusion, and quick obedience to orders—and it was a -common thing to see them, after a parade had been dismissed, continue -their drill within their own lines, under the direction of one of their -enthusiastic headmen. They were simple, good-natured people, those -blacks, and very easy to deal with if one took the trouble to understand -them and their language, and ruled with a strong yet considerate hand. -But they were unfortunate, and at a loss, when they came under the charge -of strangers who had not had opportunity to understand them or their -language—which often occurred, owing to loss of experienced men through -sickness or casualties, and their replacement by men freshly arrived in -the country. - -When we entered German territory many Swahili natives, of the inhabited -districts we passed through, were hired by all ranks as personal -servants, and thenceforth became followers of the column. Those were -usually boys of from fifteen years to twenty-five years. They subsisted -on any kind of diet, and often foraged for scraps in camp and for -fruits in the bush, with much of the instinct of animals. Those who -were ignorant were taught to cook, and to do the many little duties of -body-servant; and were a great boon to trek-tired men when camp was -reached and they were available to cut grass for the bed on the ground, -fetch water, kindle camp fires, and help in the cooking of food. - -The Kavirondos from the Lake District, and the Kikuyus from the Nairobi -area, were used almost exclusively for carriers and camp cleaners, and -were perhaps less intelligent than the average Swahili native, and of -lower type. Nevertheless, some of them were very useful, and I have used -picked men from both tribes as higher-grade machine-gun porters, and -found them come very close to the standard of the good Swahili. - -The warlike nomad Masai roamed the upland grass-lands of their great -reserves and held aloof from warfare. Only as guides in the early days on -the frontier were they of usefulness to our forces, and at that time they -were often seen about our camps. They were remarkable for their knowledge -of direction in a country of few apparent landmarks, and for the speed at -which they could cover long distances, with their ungainly shuffling run. - -[Sidenote: BIG GAME] - -I turn now to the big game of the country. - -I know no more interesting and wonderful sight than that we often -witnessed, and that may be to-day witnessed, on the Kajiado Plains, and -in the neighbourhood of the Guaso Nyero valley. Not even the wonderful -migration of the vast bands of caribou in the far Canadian North can -surpass the sight of game one will see here in a day. In a single day’s -march herd after herd of game may be passed feeding plainly in view -in the open grass veldt—herds of wildebeeste, hartebeeste, zebra, and -Grant’s gazelle, are the most plentiful; and small groups of Thomson’s -gazelle, oryx antelope, giraffe, and ostrich. While in the Guaso Nyero -valley it may be your good fortune to sight a large herd of buffalo. - -[Illustration: OSTRICHES.] - -Eland antelope I only remember seeing in two localities—at Maktau on the -frontier, and in the Rufiji valley. - -Within German territory no such vast numbers of game were encountered: -but that may have been because we did not again travel through open veldt -of the same nature as contained the herds on the frontier. Most game, in -German territory, were seen in the low-lying Mgeta and Rufiji valleys. -At Tulo and Kissaki, some species of game were plentiful. At Tulo, -reedbuck, waterbuck, mpala, and wart-hog were numerous, while a number -of hippopotamus haunted the sluggish Mwuha River. At Kissaki, bushbuck, -Harvey’s duiker, and wart-hog were the principal small game, while here, -and out to the great Ruaha and Rufiji Rivers, the territory was renowned -for elephant. - -Elephant tracks, old and new, were everywhere in the neighbourhood of -Kissaki, but animals were seldom seen, since they were very wary, -and extraordinarily quick in scenting danger. If they detect human -scent—which they will pick up a mile or more down-wind—they are at once -alarmed and fast travel away from the danger, very often covering great -distances before reassured that they have reached a zone of safety. - -[Sidenote: HIPPOPOTAMUS, RHINOCEROS] - -At the Rufiji River a remarkable number of hippopotamus were seen. North -of Kibambawe village there is a chain of lakes no great distance apart, -and I have passed one of those lakes, Lake Tágalala, when there have been -scores of hippo, visible in the water. I should think the marsh-banked -Rufiji River throughout its course teems with those strange, cumbersome, -uncomely animals. - -Rhinoceros were perhaps most plentiful on the frontier, and were often -encountered when patrolling the thick bush, or bush-covered hill-country. -During the many times I have met those animals at close quarters—and I -have stumbled across as many as four separate animals in a single night -when on particular reconnaissance—I have never known them to charge -seriously when not wounded. I have experienced them rush straight on to -the sound of a stick crackling underfoot, but, when they drew close and -got my wind, they veered off instantly to one side, and escaped in the -bush rapidly and fearfully. I remarked my experiences to Selous, for they -were not what I had been led to expect, and he corroborated them by -saying that he also had never seen one charge a man when unmolested. - -Selous, too, in discussing lions, in his quiet, practical way, laid very -little stress on the dangers of hunting those animals. He said there was -little danger of their ever venturing to attack unless wounded, and then -the greatest danger was in going into long grass to search for an animal -that in all probability would be lying there concealed, and at bay, and -ready to spring on an over-hasty pursuer. Selous’s advice was that, “in -hunting lions you should try to get a clean clear shot at your quarry, at -fairly close quarters, and to shoot to kill with your first shot.” “Don’t -attempt snapshots and wild shooting, which only lead to a bad hit, and a -dangerous lion at bay to be dealt with.” - -The eerie roar of lions was often heard at night outside our camps, or -near to the bivouac of a lonely outpost, and sometimes, through the day, -they were seen by our outlying pickets; but I only know of three being -shot by members of our battalion during our service in East Africa. - -[Sidenote: BIRD LIFE] - -I turn now to the bird life of the country. In the bush, in the -neighbourhood of water, birds, of various kinds, were often plentiful, -and were remarkable, as a rule, for their brilliant plumage. But they -were seldom conspicuous in numbers in the open, for, as a rule, they -kept closely within the cover of the bush and jungle grass; and on this -account I have often heard unobservant men remark on how little bird -life they saw during the campaign in East Africa. Their unobtrusiveness, -too, was added to by the fact that very few African birds are songsters. - -I think the bird most commonly seen throughout the campaign was the -Red-eyed Turtle Dove (_Streptopelia semitorquata_), and their soft cooing -in the quiet evenings was certainly the outstanding note of bird life in -the country. It is a truly African sound—a sound which one who has heard -it will always associate with African fantasy—and which sometimes strikes -the ear as most pleasant and soothing, and, at other times, haunts you -with its persistent hint of native sadness. - -A more remarkable call, but only heard in certain localities, was the -strange bottle-bubbling echoing call of the Lark-heeled Cuckoo—a largish -partridge-barred brown bird with a long tail—which was usually uttered -at dark, or through the night, by a lone bird perched somewhere on the -topmost twig of an outstanding bush or tree, sending his soft note-clear -call out over the ocean of misty leaf-tops; where it would be picked -up and responded to by another like sentinel at some other distant -signal-post. - -The most common bird to enter our encampments was the White-necked Raven, -a bird similar in habit and colour to the British Rook, but with a large -white mark on the nape of the neck. He was the chief scavenger of our -camps, though, sometimes, he was ably aided by the Egyptian Kite, one, or -a pair, of which species was commonly with us. - -Common varieties of the neat little mouse-like Waxbills were, on -occasions when we were near to permanent habitations, the only “sparrows” -to visit camp. - -In odd hours, when the chance occurred, I, and one or two others who -became interested, collected some specimens of bird life, chiefly with -catapult and trap, in the absence of better weapons, and, notwithstanding -the difficulties of storage and transport of the skins, at the end of -the campaign had secured the specimens below recorded; which, along with -a collection of butterflies, eventually, by purchase, passed into the -magnificent collection in Lord Rothschild’s museum at Tring, where such -splendid scientific research in world-wide zoology is being extensively -and actively prosecuted. - -The correct nomenclature of all species has been very kindly formulated -by Dr. E. J. O. Hartert, Director of the Tring Museum. - - -LIST OF SPECIES COLLECTED - - Name of Species. Sex. Where Secured. Date. Reference - No. - - WADERS - - Plover, Ringed (_Charadrius - hiaticula hiaticula_) - ♂ Maktau, B.E.A. 25.10.15 30 - Stilt (_Himantopus himantopus - himantopus_) - ♂ Bura, B.E.A. 29.12.15 81 - Sandpiper, Common (_Tringa - hypoleuca_) - ♀ Maktau, B.E.A. 27.9.15 12 - - HERONS, STORKS, ETC. - - Hammerhead (_Scopus umbretta - bannermani_) - ♂ Bura, B.E.A. 29.12.15 82 - Heron, Buff-backed (_Bubulcus - ibis ibis_) - ♂ Moschi, G.E.A. 9.4.16 110 - - PIGEONS - - Pigeon, Hartert’s Green (_Treron - calva brevicera_) - ♀♂ Moschi, G.E.A. 12.4.16 115, - 116 - Pigeon, Rameron (_Columba arquatrix - arquatrix_) - ♂♀ Kibosho, G.E.A. 1.5.16- 147, - 5.5.16 150, - juv. ♀♂ 154, 155 - Pigeon, Crimson-winged (_Turturoena - delegorguei harterti_) - ♂ Kibosho, G.E.A. 7.5.16 160 - Dove, Tamburine (_Tympanistria - tympanistria fraseri_) - ♂ Moschi, G.E.A. 16.4.16 128 - ” Red-eyed Turtle (_Streptopelia - semitorquata semitorquata_) - ♀ Lindi, G.E.A. 6.7.17 218 - - GAME BIRDS - - Guinea-fowl, Crested (_Guttera - pucherani_) - ♂ Kirengwe, G.E.A. 2.12.16 210 - - BIRDS OF PREY - - Hawk, Lesser Barred (_Kaupifalco - monogrammicus - meridionalis_) - ♀ Lindi, G.E.A. 25.6.17 216 - Eagle, African Crested (_Lophoaetus - occipitalis_) - ♂ Bura, B.E.A. 23.12.15 78 - ” Steppe (_Aquila nipalensis - orientalis_) - ♂ Kissaki, G.E.A. 30.11.16 209 - Buzzard, Steppe (_Buteo buteo - rufiventris_ Jerd. - [= _anceps_, Brehm]) - ♂ ” 30.10.16 183 - Falcon, African Lanner (_Falco - biarmicus biarmicus_) - ♀ ” 14.11.16 196 - Falcon, Pigmy (_Poliohierax - semitorquatus_) - ♂ Maktau, B.E.A. 7.11.15 45 - - OWLS - - Owl, Great Eagle (_Bubo lacteus - lacteus_) - ♀ Tulo, G.E.A. 26.9.16 171 - ” Spotted Eagle (_Bubo africanus - africanus_) - ♂ Lindi, G.E.A. 7.7.17 219 - - PARROTS - - Parrot, Meyer’s (_Poicephalus - meyeri_ Matschiei) - (Remarkable yellow - variety) - ♀ Namanga, G.E.A. 2.3.16 85 - ” Brown-headed (_Poicephalus - fuscicapillus_) - ♀ Lindi, G.E.A. 9.7.17 221 - - PLANTAIN EATERS - - Plantain Eater, White-bellied, - Grey (_Schizaerhis - leucogastra_) - ♂ Bura, B.E.A. 22.12.15 77 - ” Hartlaub’s (_Turacus - hartlaubi_) - ♂ Moschi, G.E.A. 22.4.16 138 - - CUCKOOS - - Cuckoo, Lark-heeled (_Centropus - superciliosus - superciliosus_) - ♀ Bura, B.E.A. 16.11.15 49 - ” ” - ♂ ” 14.12.15 69 - Coucal, Southern Green - (_Centhmochares aereus - australis_) - ♂ Kirengwe, G.E.A. 20.11.16 202 - Cuckoo, Golden (_Chrysococcyx - caprius_ [= _cupreus - auct._]) - ♂♂ Bura, B.E.A. 18.11.15 50 - 14.12.15 - ” Klass’s Golden - (_Chrysococcyx klassi_) - ♂ Lindi, G.E.A. 11.7.17 222 - - BARBETS - - Barbet, Black-winged (_Lybius - melanopterus - melanopterus_) - ♀♂ Moschi, G.E.A. 16.4.16 125-130 - ” Yellow-vented (_Lybius - torquatus irroratus_) - ♀♂ Kissaki, G.E.A. 15.11.16 197, - 198 - ” Spotted-breasted - (_Tricholaema - stigmatothorax_) - ♀ Maktau, B.E.A. 19.9.15 3 - ” ” - ♀♂ ” 27.9.15 10-11 - ” Pied (_Tricholaema - lacrymosum_) - ♀ Moschi, G.E.A. 3.4.16 95 - Tinker, Small (_Barbatula pusilla - affinis_) - ♀ Bura, B.E.A. 3.1.16 84 - Barbet, Böhm’s (_Trachyphonus - darnaudi böhmi_) - ♀♂ ” 11.12.15 57, - 58 - ” White-cheeked (_Smilorhis - leucotis kilimensis_) - ♂ Moschi, G.E.A. 27.4.16 142 - - WOODPECKERS - - Woodpecker, Bearded (_Mesopicos - namaquus_) - ♀ Kirengwe, G.E.A. 20.11.16 203 - ” Masai Cardinal - (_Dendropicos guineensis - massaicus_) - ♀? Moschi, G.E.A. 8.4.16 106 - ” Hartlaub’s Cardinal - (_Dendropicos guineensis - hartlaubi_) - ♀ Kissaki, G.E.A. 9.11.16 192 - - COLIES - - Coly, White-headed (_Colius - leucocephalus_) - ♂ Maktau, B.E.A. 1.11.15 36 - ” White-cheeked (_Colius - striatus affinis_) - ♂ Bura, B.E.A. 12.12.15 62 - ” ” - ♂♀ Moschi, G.E.A. 5.4.16 101, - 8.4.16 108 - - ROLLERS - - Roller, Lilac-breasted (_Coracias - caudatus caudatus_) - ♂ Moschi, G.E.A. 9.4.16 112 - ” Cinnamon African - (_Eurystomus afer - suahelicus_) - ♀ Maktau, B.E.A. 6.12.16 40 - ” ” - ♂ Kissaki, G.E.A. 7.12.16 212 - - HORNBILLS - - Hornbill, Crested (_Bycanistes - cristatus_) - ♀ Moschi, G.E.A. 30.4.16 145 - ” von der Decken’s - (_Lophoceros deckeni_) - ♀ Maktau, B.E.A. 31.10.15 32 - ” Crowned (_Lophoceros - melanoleucus suahelicus_) - ♀ Moschi, G.E.A. 1.5.16 149 - - KINGFISHERS - - Kingfisher, Hooded (_Halcyon - leucocephala leucocephala_) - ♂ Bura, B.E.A. 14.12.15 68 - ” Lesser Brown Hooded - (_Halcyon albiventris - orientalis_) - ♀ Moschi, G.E.A. 28.4.16 143 - ” Striped (_Halcyon - chelicuti_) - ♂ Makindu, G.E.A. 29.7.16 167 - ” Painted (_Ispidina picta - picta_) - ♀ Moschi, G.E.A. 14.5.16 163 - ” Crested (_Corythornis - cristata_) - ♂? Bura, B.E.A. 19.12.15 74 - - BEE-EATERS - - Bee-eater, Little Yellow-throated - (_Melittophagus pusillus - cyanostictus_) - ♂ Maktau, B.E.A. 2.11.15 39 - ” Southern Little - Yellow-throated - (_Melittophagus pusillus - meridionalis_) - ? Bura, B.E.A. 4.1.16 85 - Bee-eater, Southern Little - Yellow-throated - (_Melittophagus pusillus - meridionalis_) - ♂ Kissaki, G.E.A. 21.10.16 178 - Bee-eater, Cinnamon (_Melittophagus - oreobates_) - ♂ Moschi, G.E.A. 28.4.16 144 - ” Olive-Green (_Merops - superciliosus_) - ♀ Lindi, G.E.A. 8.7.17 220 - - HOOPOES - - Hoopoe, Wood (_Irrisor - erythrorhynchus marwitzi_) - ♂ Lindi, G.E.A. 6.7.17 217 - - NIGHTJARS - - Nightjar, Inornated (_Caprimulgus - inornatus_) - ♀ Makindu, G.E.A. 5.12.15 55 - ” Fosse’s (_Caprimulgus - fossii fossii_) - ♀ Lindi, G.E.A. 12.7.17 223 - - SWIFTS - - Swift, Palm (_Tachornis parvus - myochrous_) - ♂ young Kissaki, G.E.A. 18.10.16 176 - - SWALLOWS - - Swallow, Common European (_Hirundo - rustica rustica_) - ♂ Maktau, B.E.A. 31.10.16 31 - ” Lesser Stripe-Breasted - (_Hirundo puella_) - ♂ Moschi, G.E.A. 1.4.16 88 - ” ” - ♀ ” 7.5.16 157 - ” Ermin’s Red-breasted - (_Hirundo emini_) - ♂ ” 2.4.16 90 - ” Wire-tailed (_Hirundo - smithi smithi_) - ♂ Kibosho, G.E.A. 21.4.16 137 - ” ” - ♀ ” 1.5.16 148 - - FLYCATCHERS - - Flycatcher, Neumann’s Scrub - (_Bradornis neumanni_) - ♂ Maktau, B.E.A. 7.11.15 46 - ” Mouse-coloured Scrub - (_Bradornis pallidus - murinus_) - ♂ Makindu, G.E.A. 28.7.16 166 - ” Littoral Puff-backed - (_Batis molitor - littoralis_) - ♀? Maktau, B.E.A. 7.11.15 47 - ” ” - ♀ Bura, B.E.A. 12.12.15 64 - ” Puff-backed (_Batis molitor - puella_) - ♀♂ Moschi, G.E.A. 15.4.16 121, - 122 - ” Wattle-eyed (_Platysteira - peltata peltata_) - ♀ Kirengwe, G.E.A. 21.11.16 207 - ” Suaheli Paradise (_Tchitrea - perspicillata suahelica_) - ♂ Moschi, G.E.A. 16.4.16 126 - - SHRIKES - - Shrike, White-headed Crow - (_Eurocephalus rüppelli - deckeni_) - ♂ Bura, B.E.A. 18.12.15 72 - ” Helmeted (_Sigmodus - retzii_) - ♀ juv. Narunyu, G.E.A. 2.9.17 226 - ” Yellow-spotted Bush - (_Nicator gularis_) - ♂ Kirengwe, G.E.A. 19.11.16 119 - ” Black-fronted Bush - (_Chlorophoneus - nigrifrons_) - ♀ Moschi, G.E.A. 19.4.16 141 - ” Red-breasted (_Rhodophoneus - cruentus cathemagmenus_) - ♂♀ Makindu, G.E.A. 7.11.15 44-48 - -18.11.15 - ” Sombre (_Laniarius funebris - funebris_) - ♂ Maktau, B.E.A. 18.9.15 2 - ” Lesser Sombre (_Laniarius - funebris degener_) - ♂ Moschi, G.E.A. 7.4.15 105 - ” Black-and-White Bush - (_Laniarius aethiopicus - aethiopicus_) - ♂ ” 13.4.16 119 - ” Grey-headed Green - (_Malaconotus - poliocephalus approximans_) - ♀ Lindi, G.E.A. 16.7.17 224 - ” Lesser Puff-backed - (_Dryoscopus cubla - suahelicus_) - ♀ Moschi, G.E.A. 9.4.16 111 - ” ” - ♂ Makindu, G.E.A. 30.7.16 169 - ” Great African (_Lanius - cabanisi_) - ♂ Maktau, B.E.A. 24.10.15 29 - ” Fiscal (_Lanius collaris - humeralis_) - ♀ Moschi, G.E.A. 8.4.16 107 - ” Black-crowned Bush - (_Harpolestes senegalus - orientalis_) - ♂ Bura, B.E.A. 18.11.15 52 - ” Lesser Three-streaked Bush - (_Harpolestes australis_) - ♂ Kissaki, G.E.A. 6.11.16 185 - - DRONGOS - - Drongo (_Dicrurus ater lugubris_) - ♀ Makindu, G.E.A. 28.7.16 165 - - ORIOLES - - Oriole, Lesser Black-headed - (_Oriolus larvatus - rolleti_) - ♂ Moschi, G.E.A. 3.5.16 151 - - STARLINGS - - Starlings, White-bellied, Glossy - (_Cinnyricinclus - leucogaster verreauxi_) - ♂♀ Moschi, G.E.A. 7.5.16 158, - 159 - ” Stuhlman’s Lesser - Red-winged (_Stilbopsar - stuhlmanni_) - ♂? ” 7.5.16 156 - - WEAVERS, WAXBILLS, WHYDAHS, ETC. - - Weaver, Black-headed (_Ploceus - nigriceps_) - ♂ Bura, B.E.A. 18.11.15 51 - ” Cabanis’ Yellow-Black - (_Ploceus melanoxanthus_) - ♂ Maktau, B.E.A. 7.11.15 43 - ” Golden (_Ploceus - aureoflavus aureoflavus_) - ♂ Kissaki, G.E.A. 8.11.16 189 - ” Uniform Gros-beak - (_Amblyospiza unicolor_) - ♀ Kirengwe, G.E.A. 21.11.16 205 - Bishop, Red-crowned (_Pyremelana - flamiceps_) - ♂ Kissaki, G.E.A. 15.10.16 172 - Finch, Hooded Weaver (_Spermestes - scutata_) - ♂ Moschi, G.E.A. 18.4.16 133 - Waxbill, White-spotted (_Hypargos - niveoguttatus_) - ♀ Kirengwe, G.E.A. 19.11.16 200 - Finch, Melba (_Pytelia melba_) - ♂ Makindu, G.E.A. 30.7.16 168 - ” ” (or Kirk’s?) - (_Pytelia melba - belli_ [or _kirki_]) - ♀ juv. Kirengwe, G.E.A. 21.11.16 204 - Waxbill, Mozambique (_Estrelda - astrilda cavendishi_) - ♀ Kissaki, G.E.A. 22.10.16 181 - ” Little Ruddy - (_Lagonosticta - senegala ruberrima_) - ♂ Moschi, G.E.A. 18.4.16 136 - ” Violet-bellied - (_Uraeginthus - ianthinogaster hawkeri_) - ♂ Maktau, B.E.A. 6.10.15 17 - ” ” - ♀ ” 1.11.15 35 - ” Bengali (_Uraeginthus - bengalus niassensis_) - ♂ Kissaki, G.E.A. 18.10.16 177 - ” Northern Bengali - (_Uraeginthus bengalus - schoanus_) - ♂ Moschi, G.E.A. 26.4.16 140 - Whydah, Pied Pintail (_Vidua - serena_) - ♂ ” 16.4.16 129 - - FINCHES - - Sparrow, Suaheli, Grey-headed - (_Passer griseus - suahelicus_) - ♂ Moschi, G.E.A. 4.4.16 97 - ” ” - ♀ ” 17.4.16 131 - Finch, Hartert’s Serin (_Serinus - maculicollis harterti_) - ♀ Maktau, B.E.A. 25.9.15 6 - ” Buchanan’s Serin (_Serinus - buchanani_) - ♂ ” 18.9.15 1 - ” ” - ♀ ” 9.10.15 26 - Siskin, Spotted African (_Spinus - hypostictus_) - ♀ Moschi, G.E.A. 15.4.16 123 - ” ” - ♂ ” 18.4.16 132 - - WAGTAILS AND PIPITS - - Wagtail, African Pied (_Motacilla - vidua_) - ♀ Moschi, G.E.A. 3.4.16 92 - ” Long-tailed Pied - (_Motacilla clara_) - ♂ ” 3.5.16 152 - Pipit, Golden (_Tmetothylacus - tenellus_) - ♂ Maktau, B.E.A. 1.11.15 38 - - LARKS - - Lark, Masai Sabota (_Mirafra - poecilosterna_) - ♂ Maktau, B.E.A. 15.10.15 24 - ” Foxy (_Mirafra alopex_) - ♂ ” 19.10.15 25 - ” ” - ♀ ” 31.10.15 33 - - BULBULS - - Bulbul, Greater Green Forest - (_Andropadus insularis - insularis_) - ♀ Kirengwe, G.E.A. 21.11.16 206 - ” Yellow-vented (_Pycnonotus - barbatus micrus_) - ♂ Moschi, G.E.A. 3.4.16 96 - ” ” - ♀ ” 12.4.16 113 - - SUNBIRDS - - Sunbird, Little Collared - (_Anthreptes collaris - elachior_) - ♂ Kissaki, G.E.A. 21.10.16 179 - ” Lampert’s Senegal - (_Cinnyris senegalensis - lamperti_) - ♂ Moschi, G.E.A. 31.3.16 86 - ” ” - ♀ ” 3.4.16 93 - ” Yellow-bellied (_Cinnyris - venusta falkensteini_) - ♂ ” 1.4.16 87 - ” Bifasciated (_Cinnyris - bifasciata microrhyncha_) - ♀ Kissaki, G.E.A. 18.10.16 173 - ” Kilimanjaro Long-tailed - (_Nectarinia kilimensis - kilimensis_) - ♂ Moschi, G.E.A. 13.4.16 117 - - WARBLERS - - Warbler, Red-headed Grass - (_Cisticola ruficeps - scotoptera_) - ♂ Maktau, B.E.A. 29.9.15 14 - ” Dwarf Grass (_Cisticola - nana_) - ♂ ” 8.10.15 18 - ” Common Grass (_Cisticola - lateralis_) - ♂ Moschi, G.E.A. 6.4.16 102 - ” Uniform Wren (_Calamonastes - simplex simplex_) - ♀ Maktau, B.E.A. 10.10.15 20 - ” Long-tailed Scrub (_Prinia - mistacea tenella_) - ♂ Kissaki, G.E.A. 9.11.16 194 - Crombec, Jackson’s (_Sylvietta_) - [probably _jacksoni_] - ♀ juv. Moschi, G.E.A. 7.4.16 103 - Warbler, Yellow-bellied Bush - (_Eremomela flaviventris - abdominalis_) - ♀ Maktau, B.E.A. 10.10.15 21 - ” Golz’s Long-tailed Forest - (_Euprinodes flavidus - golzi_) - ♀ ” 8.10.15 19 - ” ” - ♂ Kissaki, G.E.A. 9.11.16 191 - Babbler, Aylmer’s (_Argya aylmeri - mentalis_) - ♀ Maktau, B.E.A. 26.9.15 8 - ” Kirk’s (_Crateropus - kirki_) - ♀ Moschi, G.E.A. 14.4.16 120 - Whinchat, African (_Saxicola - torquata axillaris_) - ♂ Kibosho, G.E.A. 8.5.16 161 - Wheatear, European (_Oenanthe - oenanthe_) - ♀ Maktau, B.E.A. 28.9.15 13 - ” Pileated (_Oenanthe - pileata_) - ♀ Moschi, G.E.A. 4.4.16 98 - -[Sidenote: SPECIES OF INTEREST] - -This was, under the circumstance of soldier life, but a small collection, -but it is interesting to note that they proved useful and of interest. -Dr. Hartert wrote concerning them: - - “Nos. 1 and 26. It is surprising that a new species should - still be found in British East Africa. It seems, however, - probable that the specimens mentioned by Reichenow from Ugogo - as probably—judging by the somewhat poor description and figure - in the Proceedings of the Zoological Society—being _Serinus - donaldsoni_, are not the latter, but this new species, which I - have described as _Serinus buchanani_ at the January meeting - of the British Ornithological Club, 1919. I have compared the - specimens with the types and other examples of _S. donaldsoni_ - in the British Museum, from Somaliland, and it is evident that - _S. buchanani_ differs by its larger and less curved bill, - longer wing, and more yellowish colour, especially the sides - being yellow with faint stripes, not green with black streaks. - - “The nest of _S. buchanani_ was found at Maktau in the fork - of a thorn tree about eight feet above the ground, on 26th - September, 1915. It is a somewhat flat structure of fibres and - rootlets, interwoven with cobwebs and wool. The three eggs are - pale blue with purplish black dots and short lines around the - wide pole. They measure 20 by 14·8 and 19·3 by 14·7 mm. They - closely resemble the eggs of the Trumpeter Bullfinch. - - (init.) “E. H.” - - “No. 13, _Oenanthe oenanthe_ (European Wheatear) collected at - Maktau, B.E.A., on 28th September, 1915. This appears to be an - early date for the occurrence of the European Wheatear so far - south. - - (init.) “E. H.” - - “No. 36. _Colius leucocephalus_ (White-headed Coly). This - species is still very rare in collections. It is at once - distinguished from all other colies by its well-marked white - head. The first example was obtained by Fisher at Wapokomo, - B.E.A., in 1878, and long remained a unicum. The trader Abdu - Jindi sold a skin from Bardera to the Paris Museum. The British - Museum possesses specimens obtained on the Guaso Nyero, B.E.A., - by Lord Delamere, and by Atkinson at Logh, Somaliland. The late - Baron Erlanger collected five specimens in Southern Somaliland. - The bird is figured in _Coliidae_, Genera Avium VI, 1906. Quite - recently Zedlitz received three males and one female from - Afgoi, South Somaliland. - - (init.) “E. H.” - - “No. 105. _Laniarius funebris degener_ (Lesser Sombre Shrike), - collected at Moschi, Kilimanjaro Area, is from a locality that - is remarkable. Hitherto only known from South Somaliland, - but agrees perfectly with _degener_, being smaller than - _atrocaeruleus_, and much less deep black than _L. funebris - funebris_. - - (init.) “E. H.” - - “Nos. 115, 116. _Treron calva brevicera_ (Hartert’s Green - Pigeon). In _Novitates Zoologicae_, XXV. 1918, I have, with the - help of Arthur Goodson, reviewed the African Green Pigeons of - the _calva_ group. We were able to distinguish not less than - nine sub-species, and there seem to be one or two other, still - doubtful ones, in N.E. Africa. In the _Catalogue of Birds_ in - the British Museum all these nine forms were united, while - Reichenow separated two, and recently four different ones. The - specimens from East Africa have given us the greatest trouble. - It is evident that a distinct form with a very short naked - ‘cere’ or basal portion of the beak, and with a sharply defined - lavender-grey nuchal collar, is found in East Africa around - Kilimanjaro and thence to the Athi River, Machakos, Matabato - Hills, and to the Kikuyu Mountains and Escarpment. This form we - called _Treron calva brevicera_. - - (init.) “E. H.” - - “No. 152. _Motacilla clara_ (Long-tailed Pied Wagtail). This - is the bird which used to be called for many years _Motacilla - longicauda_, but as this name had been preoccupied, Sharpe - named it _Motacilla clara_ in the fifth volume of the - _Hand-list of Birds_. - - (init.) “E. H.” - -[Sidenote: PLANTS COLLECTED] - -I collected also during our travels some specimens of plants for Dr. -A. B. Rendle of the British Museum, and was fortunate to secure some -interesting species, four of which were new, and not formerly recorded, -and have been described in the _Journal of Botany_ (October, 1916), while -others, unfortunately, were too fragmentary to determine, or to give more -than a genus name, though nine of them are possibly new species. - - The East African plants obtained were: - - CAPPARIDEAE - _Cleome hirta_ Oliv. - - PORTULACACEAE - _Talinum cuneifolium_ Willd. - - TILIACEAE - _Grewia canescens_ A. Rich. - - GERANIACEAE - _Pelargonium_ sp. - - LEGUMINOSAE - _Vigna fragrans_ Bak. fil. - _Rhynchosia_ sp. - - RUBIACEAE - _Pentas carnea_ Benth. (forma) - _Oldenlandia Bojeri_ Hiern - - COMPOSITAE - _Erlangea Buchananii_ S. Moore (sp. nov.) - _Vernonia Hoffmanniana_ S. Moore - _Vernonia lasiopus_ O. Hoffm. - _Ageratum conyzoides_ L. - _Notonia abyssinica_ A. Rich. - _Wedelia abyssinica_ Vatke - _Melanthera Brownei_ Sch. Bip. - _Senecio disciflorus_ Oliv. - _Berkheyopsis diffusa_ O. Hoffm. - _Aspilia_, sp. - _Achyrocline luzuloides_ Vatke - _Zinnia multiflora_ L. (New World plant; an escape from gardens.) - _Erythrocephalum longifolium_ Benth. - _Triplocephalum Holstii_ O. Hoffm. - _Mikania scandens_ Willd. - _Pluchea dioscoridis_ D. C. - _Polycline_ (sp. nov.?) - - OLEACEAE - _Jasminum Buchananii_ S. Moore (sp. nov.) - - APOCYNACEAE - _Adenium coetaneum_ Stapf - - ASCLEPIADACEAE - _Daemia extensa_ R. Br. - _Sarcostemma viminalis_ R. Br. - - BORAGINACEAE - _Cynoglossum lanceolatum_ Forsk. - - CONVOLVULACEAE - _Ipomaea Wightii_ Choisy - _Hewittia bicolor_ Wight - - SOLANACEAE - _Solanum panduraeforme_ E. Mey. - - SCROPHULARIACEAE - _Rhamphicarpa Heuglinii_ Hochst. - _Rhamphicarpa serrata_ Klotzsch. var. _longipedicellata_ Engl. - _Striga elegans_ Thunb. - - GESNERIACEAE - _Streptocarpus caulescens_ Vatke (Ulugúru Mts.) - _Streptocarpus_ sp. (Ruwu River) - - PEDALINEAE - _Sesamum_ (sp. nov.?) - - ACANTHACEAE - _Thunbergia affinis_ var. _pulvinata_ S. Moore - _Thunbergia alata_ Bojer - _Barleria maculata_ S. Moore (sp. nov.) - _Ruellia_, sp. - _Eranthemum Hildebrandtii_ C. B. Clarke - _Ecbolium namatum_ C. B. Clarke - _Barleria_, spp. - _Barleria ramulosa_ C. B. Clarke - _Somalia_ (sp. nov.). - _Blepharis linariaefolia_ Pers. - _Justicia Fischeri_ Lindau - - VERBENACEAE - _Priva leptostachya_ Thunb. - - LABIATAE - _Leucas_, sp. - _Erythrochlamys spectabilis_ Gürke - _Coleus decumbens_ Gürke - _Plectranthus buraeensis_ S. Moore (sp. nov.) - _Leucas leucotricha_ Baker - - NYCTAGINEAE - _Boerhaavia plumbaginea_ Cav. - _Boerhaavia pentandra_ Burch. - - AMARANTACEAE - _Aerua lanata_ Juss. - _Aerua brachiata_ Mart. - _Digera arvensis_ Forsk. - _Centema rubra_ Lopr. - - CHENOPODIACEAE - _Chenopodium album_ L. - - EUPHORBIACEAE - _Phyllanthua amarus_ Schum. & Thonn. - - (Species possibly new when genus only is given.) - - A. B. RENDLE. - - BRITISH MUSEUM (NAT. HIST.) _30th May, 1916_. - -In collecting in this way, in odd hours, one was constantly moving about, -and to that, strange as it may seem, I ascribe my good fortune in keeping -fit and free of sickness during the first two years of service in the -tropics. I feel sure, even if one feels listless and exhausted, that it -is a mistake to lie about camp in the oppressive heat when off duty, -pestered by flies and camp dust, and brooding over your discomforts. -Some of the men of the battalion became interested in this searching -for curious things, and, after a time, it was noticeable that they were -the ones most contented with the hardships they endured, and among the -fittest on trek. Africa had undoubtedly the power to depress men’s -spirits in no light manner, and thus, to find something to do and think -about, in any interval of idleness, was a good thing. - -[Sidenote: PESTS OF CAMP AND TREK] - -Lastly, I will refer to the pests of camp-life and trek. - -The common house-fly was a terrible pest at all times. They swarmed over -everything, and were a particular source of annoyance when food was being -prepared, or being eaten. It was impossible to take steps to reduce their -number in the limitless areas through which we were constantly passing, -and there was nothing for it but to endure the plague, while, whenever -camp was established for a few days, all rubbish was scrupulously burned -or buried so that they would have as little to attract them to our -neighbourhood as possible. - -A large glossy “blue-bottle”—following the ghastly trail of dying -transport animals, was also a common and disease-carrying pest. When the -elephants—mentioned previously—were shot in the Ulugúru Mountains, they -were miles from any habitation, and in vague bush country, which one -would judge was no habitat of “blue-bottles,” yet in an hour they were -in millions on the dead carcases—so many that the standing grass was -weighed down with the blackness of flies settled on each stem. The sense -that brought such swarms to one small centre in so short a time is beyond -understanding. Should a horse die on the roadside, but a day will elapse -before it becomes a seething mass of “blue-bottle” larva and terrible to -look upon. - -Mosquitoes, in regard to their irritating bite and their nocturnal -activities, were, on the whole, not very troublesome, and in no instance -have I a record of their being particularly bad, but they carry the -malaria germ, and, in that they did so, they were our most deadly enemy. -As protection against them everyone was supposed, by S.M.O. order, to -sleep beneath mosquito net, but that was often quite impossible when -trekking, and our kit miles in rear. - -In some parts we passed through, especially if riding, the tsetse fly was -a terrible pest, for they bite hard and deep, and follow you persistently -on your way for many miles. It is that fly which is credited with -carrying the germ of that dread disease sleeping sickness—while, as is -well known, its bite is particularly fatal to imported horses and mules, -and, in lesser degree, to cattle. - -[Sidenote: ANTS AND BEES] - -Ants, too, were among our enemies. And once you have been amongst red -fighting ants in long marsh grass you are never likely to forget them. -Sometimes, too, those species trek during the night, and I have seen a -sleeping camp turned out in the middle of the night by those insects -swarming over everyone and biting furiously. And, after a day of hard -trekking, this kind of disturbance is very far from pleasant, as may -be judged by the vicious exclamations of abuse that arise out of the -darkness. These red ants were the worst of their tribe, and many an -uncomfortable experience we had with them. Again, there was a tiny -species of ant that was always with us. It infested every article of our -belongings, and particularly anything edible, and on that score was a -great nuisance, though quite harmless otherwise. As if there was not -enough to plague the life of man, spiders, tarantulas, and scorpions -on occasions found their way into your blanket, and they were insects -that were dreaded, for their stings were very painful and poisonous and -inflamed and irritated the part afflicted for days. - -There are a great many bees in East Africa, and the natives place hives -for them in the trees and collect the wild honey from time to time. -These bees, if annoyed, are the most dreadful insect in Africa. On two -occasions hives were disturbed by our battalion, and swarms of the -annoyed inmates descended to inflict terrible punishment on all those -in the neighbourhood. On the first occasion their attack was more than -human flesh could endure, and an entire company was routed in disorder -from the neighbourhood. I have never before seen bees attack with such -ferocity nor sting so poisonously. On the first occasion of attack one -unfortunate man was completely overcome, and lay on the ground groaning -and screaming, while bees were apparently biting him to death. From this -he was rescued, but not before he was mentally unbalanced, and had to be -removed to hospital. On the second occasion of attack another individual -suffered almost equally severely. - -Many snakes were killed about camp, but no one of our battalion, so far -as I know, was ever seriously bitten by one. One python was killed and -a number of puff-adders, and a great many of the smaller grass snakes. -I have seen men, when sleeping in the open, awake at daylight to find -a snake, 4 to 6 feet long, curled against their body for warmth, but, -on being disturbed, they slid off quietly into the grass, and were gone -without attempting to be antagonistic. - -At Kissaki camp we experienced a bad plague of mice. At the time we were -there, the entire neighbourhood had been burnt out by the natives in -clearing their cultivated ground of undergrowth, and this had driven the -mice into camp. There were thousands of them—they lived in your grass -roof by the score, they scuttled about the floor of your hut o’ nights, -and while you slept they played “hide and seek” over your blankets. It -was a common thing for half a dozen biscuit-tin traps—make-shift traps -made by ingenious Tommies—to catch a hundred mice in a night. - -Those are but brief references to the forms of Nature that were closely -associated with the campaign; some giving us pleasure, some adding to our -trials and discomforts—but all memorable to those who have bivouacked and -trekked under the tropic sun. - - - - -CHAPTER IX - -HERE AND HEREAFTER - - -WAR - -War is as a storm of the clouds—a human storm. Dark frowning clouds, -commotion and strife, and outbursts of thunder—and before the threatening -disaster we tremble, and hope and fear. - -It is the changing of the Universe, this mighty upheaval within nations, -and there is the impulse of Destiny in it. As a storm will clear the -atmosphere, afterwards there will be sunshine and better things. Not for -to-day, and the present, is this warring of nations, but for the future, -and the wisdom of those who in generations will follow us. - -Was not the world growing fast into a plaything? Something in the form of -a pleasure-giving empty bubble, growing larger, floating uncertainly, the -surface substance—that which is visible to the eyes and mind—transparent, -and weak, and unworthy of the clear and vigorous world from which it had -risen, brightly coloured, and to which it was fast descending, colourless -and vague. As a bubble will burst, so was a climax imminent. - -Does not war, this drastic liberation of opposite forces, hold for us a -lesson? Are we not passing through the throes of upheaval to change the -mind of our race from vanity to wisdom? The world to-day is steeped in -blood and sorrow; and all the suffering would be in vain, were there not -hope that the world will arise in the end sobered, and humbled, and eager -to live anew. - - -WAR MATERIAL - -[Sidenote: THOUGHTS FROM THE FRONT] - -Is not to enter war to enter an arena of great possibilities, wherein -a great game may be played, or a bad game? but, in any case, it is so -closely and seriously fraught with terrible issues that it bares the -character of men to the very bone. And there are many characters—not -one character, but a thousand characters; some great, some small, some -active, some dormant, but out of all such elements it is a wise man’s -wish to weld a universal organisation of strength; and an ignorant man’s -folly to look at no other ambition but his own. - -And therein lie the factors of all troubles of organisation, and the -tremendous internal difficulties of army or national construction. One -man—or body of men—may plan to build well, but can only succeed if the -material is good: if the material is bad, there results failure, with -credit neither to the builder nor the material. And human character is -material—the most delicate material great builders may know and direct, -in war, or commerce—just so many human beings prone to be directed so -far, and for the rest to rise or fall, in the world’s estimate, as our -characters decide. But out of this mass of human character, out of these -manifold qualities of a multitude, is formed the final whole which -goes to mark the characteristics of an era of history, and a national -greatness or littleness. - - * * * * * - -Like unto axe-men felling trees in a forest is the destructive hand of -warfare. The land is depopulated of its finest timber, and that which -will take a lifetime to replace. - -Wholesale destruction reaches far beyond the actual crime of killing. It -breaks the evolution of growth, retards or destroys the life-history of a -species, and leaves, through the age it occurs in, an irreplaceable blank -in the population and wealth of a country. - -This is not the first war, nor has anyone in the present authority to -state that it is the last. If war and the felling of our forests must -be, it is well to cling stoutly to the old features of the race and -cultivate, in place of the fallen giants, clean-limbed sturdy saplings of -full-worthy quality to serve the generations of the future. - -It will concern us greatly in the future to cultivate a race strong -enough to endure the buffeting of great elements, and true and straight -as the best of the race of the past. For the country will want a race -that is fine-grained and sure-rooted, and fit to stand up against the -stress of the many storms of a restless world’s brewing. - - * * * * * - -How little we are, we pawns of a universe: how far-reaching is war in the -destruction of our plans! At the beginning of life it has picked us up -in its whirlwind, from every stage of life, and left our poor ambitious -castles in the air, tiny long-forgotten dust-heaps on the plain. - -And yet we laugh and hide our sorrow, and go on, on our new-found task, -our future now no farther ahead than we can see, and trusting in God that -all will come right in the end. - - * * * * * - -We learn at the front and at home that nothing else matters, that -nothing really counts in the greatness of a nation but clean, unshaken, -sacrificing purpose, and ceaseless industry: worthless are all our little -deceits and vanities, and greed of personal gain. - -That nation will find religion and prosperity which holds on to the -deeper lessons of war, long after war is over. To forget those lessons -will be to sin against God and conscience, and the great silent -grave-yard of our dead, who died that their nation might live. - - * * * * * - -[Sidenote: NEED OF INDUSTRY] - -Industry will greatly concern us after the war. On that will our nation -depend for its solid existence hereafter, as it does to-day, on the -activities of our war-worn, long-enduring men-at-arms. We should be glad -that there will be much to do, for work is a fine thing. It is sincere in -its object—it accomplishes, and it satisfies the strongest trait in our -character: that wish of all men to establish a stable place of existence -where they can support an acknowledged standing of manhood. - -Had we not to provide for ourselves, the chief care of our lives would be -taken away from us. In idleness we would become brainless and degenerate. - -Nature has decreed her purposeful laws of all existence. Everything -that lives must industriously seek to find its means of livelihood, and -its means of defence against its enemies. For instance, in wild nature, -do not birds and animals without cease spend all their lives providing -themselves with food, and defending themselves against storms and their -enemies? In similar manner so must we; so must all things. - - * * * * * - -There are centuries of Time. - -The World is very, very old, and a mighty universe in which a man is -but an infinitesimal activity of creation. After all, in spite of the -breathless, concentrated ambitions of a lifetime, we are a little people -and we only live on earth for a very little while. Let us then, above -all, make our fireside, and that of our neighbours, as pleasant as we -can. For love and beauty have a powerful influence to promote the better -religion, the stronger manhood of our race, and it is those intimate -characteristics, wisely planted, that may take root and grow, and be -everlasting long after we have travelled over the line and are gone. - - * * * * * - -It is sometimes our misfortune to misunderstand the scene or the life -around us. Forgetting our humility, it is often our temperament to find -fault, rather than reason, with the picture we view; and fault-finding -causes uneasiness, pain, and strife. - -Perhaps our first care should be to perfect ourselves, and, next, to -harmonise with the endeavours of our neighbours. It would be well to go -pleasantly forward to find the best that is in anything—to look for the -little gleams of beauty which throw light across most pictures, no matter -how dark the background. - - * * * * * - -[Sidenote: IMPULSES OF CHARACTER] - -Some men, like a giant moth in its full beauty of life when it breaks -from its chrysalis cell, fail to accomplish anything before they are -lured to the bright lights of the lamps of civilisation. Like an -unfortunate moth to a lamp, it is their fate to be inevitably drawn -towards the attraction, to seek an elusive something, and a possible -happiness. Persistently they damage their manhood and their strength in -trying to reach a luminous star within the radiant unattainable circle. -Again and again they return to flutter madly to their doom; and have no -wish to stay away. Until, at last—unless the will and mind overmaster -the weakness, and they go soberly away—the body drops to the darkness, -wasted and broken, and lies seriously damaged or dead. Ah, the pity of -it!—the sadness! There lies a creature of unknown possibilities come to -untimely grief. - -Some men have no luck. Why are the strong impulses of a character born -in a creature without the one great saving grace of control? It is the -mystery of life, and it is impossible to criticise justly the man or the -ultimate end. It would be wise and kind to be very generous to all acts -and to all characters, since it is, above all else, “Destiny that shapes -our ends.” The moth could not damage its wings if the lamps were not -there, and alight, and yet for generations they have hung in their places -by the custom of our race, if not by the will of our God. - - * * * * * - -Judge no man hastily or harshly. Know a man long enough and, in most -cases, you will know him, in some phase of life, do an act of nobleness. - -Environment has a great and often a deciding influence on man’s -behaviour; and sometimes it is a man’s misfortune never to have had a -chance. - - * * * * * - -Justice is not so straightforward as it seems. To bring blame home to the -true offender, or the true origin of offence, is often a task beyond -human breadth of mind and human skill. We attempt, as best we can, what -is God’s work—He who sees and knows all things. - -It is not always what appears on the surface that really counts; it is -when the storms of battle are at their bitterest that the true materials -are found out, and the pure metal most praised. - -How thoroughly in us is instilled the knowledge of right and wrong! -How clearly we know our wickedness when we err! That alone should be -sufficient to prove that there is a God and a sound foundation to -religion. - - * * * * * - -[Sidenote: WAR’S SCHOOLING] - -Sleepless night—the bare hard ground an awkward resting-place, and our -look-out on the outer edges of outer civilisation. Over on the left of -camp a tireless, cheerful youngster, with spirit undaunted, is holding -the long, dreary watches through the night. Once he was a dandy-dressed -youth of a great city. He has come through a lot since then, he has -learned his lesson and his position in a grim world of naked realities. -He has risen from nothing to become a man—stripped of the fine clothes of -his drifting butterfly days, and aware now of how little they were. For -him the war has held more than loyalty to his country, for it held for -him, in its own time, and in its own way, the finding of himself. - -A boy changed to a man, and the man seeing a world that is not as he -built it. He has sighed and fretted for lost dreams, but he knows the -battle-ground of Life’s conflict must be in the arena before him, and, -headstrong and vigorous, he accepts the challenge against strange weapons -and foes, and is of the stuff to prove that he has grown to be a worthy -defender of his race. - - -ROUTINE - -At your post there are some days when mists are in your eyes, and you -cannot clearly see; there are days when mountains must be climbed with -aching limbs and burdened back; and there are days when you are humbled -in wretchedness, and glad of the kindliness of natives. Those days we -all experience, but, thank God, there are days when the sky is blue and -sunshine is in everything, and it is good to be alive. - - -CHARACTER AND COMMAND - -Eighty per cent. of the rank and file are good fellows, glad to do their -best if treated with consideration, humanity, and a little love. They are -all very human, and you cannot prevent them from thinking in a human way. -What they expect and desire is a strong command that lays down a just and -reasonable order of things, and carries them through without confusion -and change. To supply such command is often difficult—for, again, it is -human nature that has to be dealt with. - -Perhaps thirty per cent. of young officers are in part ignorant or -forgetful of their trust and its bearing on good or bad organisation. -They are sometimes inclined to imagine themselves set on a pedestal above -the rank and file, spending more thought than should be on rivalling one -another for rank, and stylishness, and a well-catered mess, while their -men go forgotten, and left to look after themselves. - -One may truly say that one does not always find strong men in large -majorities down the list of young officers of a battalion—men who have -a prolonged determination and ambition to endure the hard fight for a -complete, wholesome, and wholly dangerous and united force. Here and -there one may pick out the strong men, who never lose their military -interest and who will brave anything, and then look at the remaining -line which clearly shows, in the chain which is to bind the whole of a -battalion, some weakness of strength, and the full extent of our failing. - -It is a chain of some usefulness, thank God, but not capable, with its -weaknesses, of everlasting service, nor as strong as it might be if time -and material had allowed of a faultless welding. - -By nature it is impossible to find all men of equal resolution, but at -the same time we of some means and education are often a thoughtless -people inclined to travel the line of least resistance in a difficult, -self-seeking world. And that is where, in part, the fault springs -from—the country from which we draw our stock has falteringly halted -or fallen back in producing men of refinement and chivalry, and has -encouraged in its stead a temperament of peculiar self-set vanity. - -In a strong commander, a man who is loved by his men, you will always -find there is refinement and generosity and bravery, and little selfish -vanity—whether he be gentle-born or not. And look on the men who play the -clean, straight game in any field of life, and one cannot fail to see -that they are loved of all true-minded humanity. It is, they know, the -only game to play, the only game that wins a mighty battle. - - -LEADERSHIP - -The control of an ordered parade is a simple thing, and for the drill -sergeant. But do not let us confuse the drill and discipline of the -barrack square, which is something of an ornament and impressive, with -the state of mind and aspect of a vital battle. - -Gifted leadership is that which takes hold of and controls disorder—not -order. No matter what we have read and have preached about discipline, -the eternal fact which human nature will put before you on the awesome -field is that we are of many tempers, that all has not been calculated -or understood, and that Fate or Circumstance has, in part, destroyed the -plan so carefully arranged before setting out. - -Out of such a situation nothing can lift the force, that is confronted -with difficulties, but quick thought, speedy action, and sure command. -And that is the leadership so hard to obtain. - -Men essentially want strength in their leaders. They will go through -fire and brimstone for a good leader, and never be at a loss. Is it not -a mistake to rely too much on discipline as a factor of strength? May it -not be misleading to judgment of fighting strength? Drill and discipline -are somewhat automatic and ornamental, and it is just that surface which -is rudely swept aside in the first shock of battle. - -Drill and discipline, in moderation, are good, but one should not overdo -it or overvalue it. Husband the high spirit of youth as long as one -can—it is the spirit that fights a winning battle. - -Above all it should be remembered that soldiers are not schoolboys, -or mere tools, but men, often with high-strung feelings, who have put -their lives at the disposal of their country. The British soldier is -essentially a practical man; he has, in peace time, been an engineer, a -boiler-maker, an electrician, a mason, a farmer, or in a score of other -trades, and he does not easily lose the character of his long training; -nor should we expect it. He wants to be considered seriously, and as a -man. He wants to do his best, within reason, and, given a fair chance, -he never fails you. And, finally, he considers he has the right, at all -times, to be the keeper of his own soul. - -Leadership imposes a wide knowledge of human nature, and a wide -responsibility; but tact, great patience, and a durable enthusiasm will -carry one far on an undertaking that is full of difficulties. - - -CRITICISM - -A soldier said to me the other day: “I have been fifteen months out -here—I may be fifteen more—I may be shot to-morrow.” - -To him it was a commonplace remark without a note of complaint. He merely -wished to show he had had time to think of the subject he was discussing -from a serious point of view. - -And he had been discussing the folly, the uselessness, the narrowness, -the meanness of some of the newspaper and political criticisms so rife in -his home papers—the home that now he passionately hoped would emerge from -bloody battle-fields purified, serious, content, and aged to a greater -wisdom. - -He thought some journalism at home and, incidentally, politics had been, -since the date of war, very disappointing. War had brought the golden -opportunity, while the State was in trouble and distress, to raise the -standard of thought to high Idealism. Yet had it carried on, on the -whole, as before, the chief forte criticism; sometimes uttered in weak -alarm or blundering foreboding—always in attack or defence of a narrow -circumstance. - -[Sidenote: DISTURBING CRITICISM] - -And, having warmed to his subject, the soldier went on to condemn -criticism—and his arguments were these: - -There is far too much freedom of field given to fractious, unfounded -criticism. Criticism is nearly always, in some aspect, unjust; certainly -it is always unkind. For it aims at striking a down-felling blow while -it hits but one surface of the many-sided views of complex humanity. The -surface that is struck at may be bruised or even destroyed, if the blow -be straight, but there are others of the many surfaces which will merely -recoil and revolt, with cause, against the blow. And there are times when -the blow misses the mark altogether, and revolt is complete from all -sides. - -Criticism can only be justified in two forms: when it condemns a great -wrong or a grave deceit—and then we should see to it that it is our -law, not criticism, that deals out judgment with certain understanding; -and, in the other case, when it is uttered in good spirit with helpful -purpose—and then it were more rightly called advice. Surely it is -wrong entirely to condemn, in bitter and unsubstantiated speech, the -thoughts and purpose of another body which dares to see a phase of -life, or government, in other light, and with another brain. Were it -not far better to prove by deed, by clear-sighted example—not merely by -words—the value of thought? And, if the opponent be a man, he will come -to thank you, and both views, in the process of discussion, will become -enlightened and instructive. - -If he is not ‘a man’ his scheme of things opposed to yours should crumble -away if our laws are right, and concur with the common law of decay -which decrees that ill-fed roots cannot live and flourish. Does any man -do right to sit on a stool at home looking for trouble in the machinery -of the nation, when millions toil in endless endeavour, his object to -descry weakness or fault, or to direct to his temple of ideas, while he -raises no active hand to prove his knowledge or his understanding? Is he -certain of his usefulness? Does his position as a man of letters entitle -him, by self-appointment, to be king of people? Is there not a more -noble, if harder, method of reasoning a cause to greatness? If we are to -be truly great we must see the main views together, listening to all from -every human standpoint—and framing the final law with certain wisdom—for -the greatness of nations must spring from absolute unity of purpose, and -with an honesty near to the goodness of God. And is it not by example, -by action, and thereafter with broader vision, by help and advice, that -mankind should build together their fortresses of strength against the -battles of to-day and of the future? Have you seen a grim figure, grimly -occupied during an action, defending his yard of trench—which is to him -his Britain’s all—and dealing death with certain purpose and unshakable -resolution? He has nothing to say—only by deed can he hope to hold this -little yard for Britain’s honour. - -He has no need for criticism. He has risen beyond any fault-finding or -narrowness. - -He may live but to-day, but he lives those hours for the good and the -greatness of his motherland. - -Should he criticise, if he comes through, methinks his words will be -measured with a new seriousness, and with warmth of comradeship more than -with enmity and bitterness. - -And does not that common picture show the nobleness of _action_, and its -accomplishment—while criticism, ignorant and powerless, is blown back -into the four winds ashamed of its fragility? - - -ALONE - -I have been a lone sentry many nights now in this distant outpost, and, -like a single plover seeking out the flock, I could utter his weird, wild -cry of loneliness. Love is surely the strongest motive in our lives, and -ah! it is cruel, and cold, and barren without any of it.... Yet I carry -on, though sometimes losing control of wariness and pitching among the -far-off fields of dream-land in search of the old home ... then back to -this lone, wild beat as before. - -Is it an untamed spirit beating its life out because it has not the -saving faculty of control? or is it lost for a time on unbeaten tracks, -out of the course that it was intended to keep? - - * * * * * - -The virtue of life is not in learning to get what you want, but in -learning to do without what you want; and a soldier may have to do -without everything. A motto is no good if it is only an ornament on the -wall. If we live up to it, then only does it become worth while. - - * * * * * - -There is one thing greater than strength that will carry one far, and -that is endurance. - - * * * * * - -[Sidenote: UNDERLYING SADNESS] - -It is the fate of youth, in simple trustfulness, to venture forth on the -broad highway of life a dreaming idealist; and to return, if the wars go -against him, with deep-cut scars and bowed head. He knows that there are -plans made otherwise than his, and that they will remain unalterable, -while he must break his spirit to change, and self-denial, and humbleness. - -There is something of bitterness in the struggle, but it is that -bitterness which makes for deeper experience and ultimate strength, -though underlain with haunting sadness. - - - - -INDEX - - - Aden, 14 - - Aeroplanes, 29, 77, 114 - - African sounds, 31 - - Africa’s vastness, 8, 139 - - Ambushed patrol, 26, 28 - - Ammunition abandoned, 127, 132 - - Animals dying, 76; - exhausted, 91 - - Ants, 167, 222 - - Armour-plate tests, 111 - - Army, a mixed, 65 - - Aruscha road, 70, 74 - - Askaris surrender, 151 - - - Bagomayo, 124 - - Baluchis, 66, 85, 165 - - Bay of Biscay, 6 - - Bayonet charge, 110, 188 - - Bees, 222 - - Behobeho, 166 - - Belgian Force, 124 - - Beves, Gen., 164 - - Big game, 202 - - Bird life in East Africa, 206-207 - - Bird migration, north-bound, 10 - - Birds collected, 209-215 - - Birds of special interest, 216 - - Boat-hawking vendors, 9 - - Bridges destroyed, 104, 124 - - Bridges, repairing, 83, 122 - - Brits, Gen., mounted troops, 118 - - Buck jump, great, 89 - - Buffalo, 48, 92, 203 - - Buiko, delayed at, 95 - - Bukoba, 20, 22 - - Bukubuku, large camp at, 130 - - Bush foils decisive combat, 139 - - Bush-war difficulties, 29, 138, 184 - - - Camp routine, 36 - - Camp shelters, 141 - - Cape Town, rest at, 171 - - Casualties, 165, 190, 194 - - Casualties at Kahe, 84 - - Central railway, marching on, 103 - - Central railway falls, 124 - - Character and command, 233 - - Character, impulses of, 230 - - Clifford strikes, 58 - - Climate of intense heat, 34, 114 - - Coaling, 9 - - Colony lost to Germans, 124 - - Convoy sail, 4 - - Country beautiful, Ulugúru Mts., 127, 154 - - Country, cultivated, 76, 125 - - Country terribly unhealthy, 197 - - Criticism, disturbing, 237 - - Crocodile shot, 141 - - Cultivation, native, 105, 146 - - Cunliffe, Gen., 165 - - Currency, doubtful German, 107 - - - Dakawa, 165 - - Dar-es-Salaam surrenders, 124 - - Dark days, 195 - - Dartnell, Lieut., V.C., 19 - - Daylight, hours of, 13, 27 - - Defu River, 80 - - Desert, march through forsaken, 71 - - Dik-dik, 102 - - Doves, numerous, 146, 206 - - Dress, typical, 45 - - Driscoll, Colonel, 3 - - Driving off cattle, enemy, 44 - - Duiker, Harvey’s, 111 - - Dunthumi River, 133 - - Dust, marching in thick, 69 - - - East Africa, nearing, 15 - - Egyptian kite, 15 - - Eland, 28, 203 - - Elephants, 155, 203 - - Elephant tusks, 160 - - Engare Naniuki, 70 - - Entrenchments, Ruhungu, 120 - - - Fever, more cases, 141 - - Fires not allowed, 94 - - Fly pests, 220 - - Fly, tsetse, 221 - - Food at low ebb, 149 - - Food, bartering for native, 107, 112 - - Food, German, reported short, 151 - - Food, hunting game for, 97, 133, 143 - - Forces dwindling, 113, 150 - - Freebooters, German, 51 - - Frontiersmen, 2 - - Frontier skirmishes, 18 - - Frontier stations, 17 - - Front, four-mile, 187 - - Front, nine-mile, 177 - - Front, twenty-mile, 164 - - Fuga hills, 166 - - Fusiliers, 25th Royal, 67, 177, 193 - - - Game, big, 202 - - Geraragua River, 71 - - Gerenuk antelope, 101 - - German askaris surrender, 151 - - “German Bridge” engagement, 93 - - German East Africa, area of, 139 - - German East Africa threatened, 65 - - German freebooters, 51 - - German natives hired, 133 - - German paper rupees, 107 - - Gibraltar, 7 - - Gilham, Lieut., goes hunting, 97 - - Gitu, 105 - - Goanese, 76 - - Gold Coast Regiment, 129 - - Greeks, 76 - - Guaso Nyero Valley, 47 - - Guerilla warfare, Bukoba, 22 - - Guinea-fowl, 99 - - Guns, heavy, stranded, 164 - - Guns, Koenigsberg, captured, 82, 166 - - Gun-teams, sickness depletes, 142 - - - Handeni neighbourhood, 106 - - Hannyngton’s, Gen., Brigade, 118 - - Hartebeeste shot, 40 - - Heat, climate of intensive, 34, 147, 168 - - Hen, pet white, 112, 115 - - Hill country, impassable, 119 - - Himo River, 80 - - Hippopotamus, 204 - - Horses dying, 73, 108 - - Hoskins, Gen., C.-in-C., 172, 176 - - Hot springs, 158 - - Houses inhabited, 74 - - Hunting at Kajiado, 39 - - Hunting game for food, 97 - - Hyenas in camp, 143 - - - Indian Ocean, 15 - - Industry, need of, 229 - - Information, natives give, 130 - - Ivory, 160 - - - Jungle, cruel-fanged, 97 - - - Kahe, enemy strength at, 84 - - Kahe, hard fighting at, 80 - - Kajiado, hunting at, 40 - - Kanga-Kilindi range, 118 - - Kasanga, 154 - - Kasigau, occupied by enemy, 42 - - Kavirondos, 202 - - Kearton, Cherry, 2 - - Kibambawe, 171 - - Kibo, 35 - - Kibosho, 87 - - Kiderengwe, 166 - - Kihunsa ridge, 129 - - Kikuyus, 202 - - Kilimanjaro, 35 - - Kilossa, 124 - - Kilwa, 176 - - Kilwa column, position of, 179 - - King’s African Rifles, 67, 144, 177, 188, 193 - - Kipanya ridge, 187 - - Kiruru, 166 - - Kissaki, activities, 149 - - Kissaki camp, 140, 144 - - Kissaki, enemy retiring to, 130 - - Kisumu, 19 - - Kite, Egyptian, 15 - - Kitulo Hill, 176 - - Koodoo, Lesser, 99 - - Kraals, native, 146 - - Kraut, Major, 78, 189 - - Krupp gun, small, 111 - - Kwa-Beku, 117 - - Kwa-Direma, 110 - - - Lake Natron at dawn, 55 - - Lake steamship craft, 20 - - Lake Victoria Nyanza, 19 - - Landing effected, Bukoba, 22 - - Leadership, 235 - - Lembeni outflanked, 90 - - Lindi Bay, 174 - - Lindi, 175 - - Lindi, return to, 185 - - Lions, 40, 53, 205 - - Locusts, 34 - - London, departure from, 3 - - Longido west camp, 64 - - Long-range guns, enemy, 130 - - Loyal North Lancashires, 23 - - Luăle Liwăle River, 121 - - Lukigura River, march on, 109 - - Lukuledi River, 176 - - Luxuries (?), 39 - - Lyall, Gen., 166 - - - Machine guns, death-dealing, 80 - - Magali Ridge, 127 - - Maize, 146 - - Makindu, 109, 113 - - Makindu, advance beyond, 118 - - Maktau, reconnaissance, 27 - - Malaria, victim of, 123 - - Malta, 9 - - Mango, tree and fruit, 145 - - Masai, 48, 202 - - Masai, respect white chief, 62 - - Massimbani track, 116 - - Massassi, 197 - - Material, war, 226 - - Mawensi, 35 - - Mayani, 187 - - Mbuyuni, back to, 87 - - Mediterranean Sea, 7 - - Mgata, 129 - - Mgeta river front, 140, 144, 164 - - Mice plague, 223 - - Millet, 146 - - Mingoyo, 184 - - Mkalamo, 103 - - Mkalinso, 171 - - Mkwaya, 177 - - Mohambika, 184, 187 - - Mombasa, 15 - - Mombo, 103 - - Monitors at Lindi, 177 - - Monsoon, South-west, 27 - - Morogoro occupied, 123 - - Moschi, 74 - - Moschi area all clear, 86 - - Mosquitoes, 221 - - Mountain pass partly blocked, 128 - - Mounted troops, Gen. Brits, 118 - - Mpala, 40, 133, 203 - - Mpapua, 124 - - Mrweka, 184 - - Mssente, 116 - - Mtanda plateau, 187 - - Mules dying, 73 - - Mules, Somali, 44 - - Mules, South American, 67 - - Mwúhe River, 122 - - Mwuha River, 131 - - - Nagasseni, 70 - - Narunyu, 191 - - Native cultivation, 105, 146 - - Native kraals, 146 - - Natives fearful of shell-fire, 114 - - Natives, German, hired, 133, 201 - - Natives of East Africa, 201 - - Naval gun captured, 82, 166 - - Neuralia, troopship, 4 - - Nguru mountains, 109, 114, 118 - - Nguruman mountains, 47 - - Nigerian regiment, 165, 198 - - Night attack by enemy, 78, 194 - - Night landings, 20, 179 - - Night scouting, 30 - - Nkessa’s, 133, 134 - - North Pole Star, 13 - - - Observation post destroyed, 129 - - Offensive, commencement of, 68, 174 - - Officers, 233 - - O’Grady, Gen., 177, 198 - - Ol Doinyo Orok, 32 - - Operations against Narunyu fail, 119 - - Operations in Ulugúru Mts., 125 - - Outpost, Maktau, 26 - - Outpost scattered, 71 - - Outram, George, 3 - - Oxen dying, 108 - - - Pangani River, column leaves, 105 - - Pangani River, down the, 88 - - Parcels from home, 38, 148 - - Pare mountains, 93 - - Patrol ambushed, 26, 28 - - Patrols, 18 - - Plantations, coffee, 76 - - Plantations, rubber, 76, 176 - - Plants collected, 218 - - Plymouth Dock, 4 - - Port Said, 10 - - Punjabis, 66 - - - Raiders, heading off, 52 - - Railway, central, falls, 124 - - Railway protection, 17 - - Railway to Tanga clear, 103 - - Rains, 35, 76, 145, 164, 172 - - Ramazani, Selous’s gun-bearer, 170 - - Rank and file, 233 - - Rations, Gen. Sheppard on, 147 - - Rations very short, 96, 104 - - Rearguard skirmish, 72 - - Rearguards harass advance, 108, 131 - - Reconnaissance flanking Ruhungu, 115 - - Reconnaissance, Maktau, 27 - - Red Sea, 13 - - Reedbuck, 133, 142, 203 - - Rhinoceros, 27, 28, 30, 204 - - Rhodesians, 2nd, 93 - - Routine in camp, 26, 36 - - Routing the raiders, 60 - - Rovuma River, Germans cross, 199 - - Royal Fusiliers, 25th, 67, 177, 193 - - Rubber plantations, 76, 176 - - Rufiji, enemy retreat to, 170 - - Rufiji, postponed advance to, 144 - - Rufiji River, north of, 125 - - Ruhungu, operations fail, 119 - - Russongo River, 121 - - Ruwu River (Kahe front), 78, 82 - - Ruwu River (Ulugúru Mts.), 127 - - Ryan, Martin, 3, 158 - - - Saidi-bin-Mohammed, 43 - - Sanja River, 73 - - Scouting, night, 30 - - Selous, F. C., 2, 162, 169 - - Sheep hills, 69 - - Shelled by naval guns, 92, 110, 196 - - Shell-fire, prolonged, 114, 196 - - Sheppard, Gen., 93, 106, 147, 165 - - Shombole Mountain, 56 - - Sickness depletes gun-teams, 142 - - Sickness, food shortage causes, 38 - - Single-handed adventure, 44 - - Sleep in mud and water, 85 - - Sleep lost and overtaxed, 89 - - Smuts, Gen., C.-in-C., 68 - - Smuts, Gen., pressing forward, 95, 104, 121 - - Snakes, 223 - - Snowfall on Kilimanjaro, 35 - - Soko-Nassai River, 80 - - Soldiers underfed, underclothed, 146 - - Somali mules, 44 - - Sounds, African, 31 - - South African troops coming, 41 - - Southern Cross, 28 - - South Pare mountains, 93 - - Ssangeni, 106 - - Ssonjo, 108 - - Starving natives, 196 - - Stations, frontier, 17 - - Steamship craft, lake, 20 - - Stores abandoned, 132 - - Storks, 34 - - Suez Canal, 11 - - Sunburn, extreme, 169 - - Supply difficulties, adding to, 126 - - Surrender, Tafel’s force, 199 - - Swahili-speaking tribes, 200 - - - Tabora, Belgian force occupy, 124 - - Tafel’s force surrender, 199 - - Tandamuti, attack fails on, 187 - - Tandamuti front clear, 191 - - Tanga clear, railway to, 103 - - Taveta base, 88 - - Telegraph wires cut, 150 - - Thorn trees, 98 - - Tieta hills, 30 - - Tobacco, out of, 148 - - Trackless country, 69 - - Tragic end, 199 - - Transport difficulties, 75, 104, 113 - - Transport attacked, 189 - - Trees, thorn, 98 - - Trolley line, 103, 180 - - Troopship, 4, 5 - - Tsetse fly, 221 - - Tulo, 132 - - Tulo, delayed at, 140 - - - Uganda railway, 17, 42 - - Ulugúru mountains, operations in, 125 - - Ulugúru mountains, seeking road, 154 - - Unhealthy area, a very, 140, 197 - - Usambara railway, enemy leaving, 103 - - Usambara railway, west of, 88, 93 - - - Van Deventer’s, Gen., column, 81, 124 - - Van Deventer, Gen., C.-in-C., 176 - - Victoria Nyanza Lake, 19 - - Voi Railway mined, 26 - - Von Lettow crosses Rovuma River, 199 - - Von Lettow, forces under, 176 - - - Wami River, fight at, 122 - - War material, 226 - - Watch-dog’s duties, 17 - - Water, 18, 48, 194 - - Waterbuck, 142, 203 - - Waterless wilderness, 45 - - Waterloo station, 1 - - Whirlpools, 48 - - White troops leave country, 144 - - Wilderness and night, 47 - - Wilderness country, 64, 139 - - Wilhelmstal, 103 - - Willoughby, Major Sir John, 111 - - Wireless station destroyed, 20, 25 - - - Ziwani, fighting at, 183 - - - _Printed by Hazell, Watson & Viney, Ld., London and Aylesbury, England._ - -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THREE YEARS OF WAR IN EAST -AFRICA *** - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the -United States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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font-size:1.2em; font-weight:bold'>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Three years of war in East Africa, by Angus Buchanan</p> -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online -at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you -are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the -country where you are located before using this eBook. -</div> - -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: Three years of war in East Africa</p> -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: Angus Buchanan</p> -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Contributor: Cranworth</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: August 27, 2022 [eBook #68854]</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</p> - <p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; text-align:left'>Produced by: Peter Becker and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive)</p> -<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THREE YEARS OF WAR IN EAST AFRICA ***</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_i"></a>[i]</span></p> - -<p class="center larger">THREE YEARS OF WAR<br /> -IN EAST AFRICA</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_ii"></a>[ii]</span></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_iii"></a>[iii]</span></p> - -<div class="box"> - -<p class="center"><i>BY THE SAME AUTHOR</i></p> - -<hr class="r15" /> - -<p class="center larger">WILD LIFE<br /> -IN CANADA</p> - -<p class="center">With Illustrations from Photographs<br /> -by the Author</p> - -<hr class="r15" /> - -<p class="center">LONDON: JOHN MURRAY</p> - -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_iv"></a>[iv]</span></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_v"></a>[v]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus1" style="max-width: 125em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus1.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Lukigura River.</span></p> - <p class="caption"><i>Frontispiece</i></p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_vi"></a>[vi]</span></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_vii"></a>[vii]</span></p> - -<p class="titlepage larger">THREE YEARS OF WAR<br /> -IN EAST AFRICA</p> - -<p class="titlepage">BY CAPT. ANGUS BUCHANAN, M.C.</p> - -<p class="titlepage smaller">WITH MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS</p> - -<p class="titlepage">LONDON<br /> -JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET, W.<br /> -1920</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_viii"></a>[viii]</span></p> - -<table class="titlepage smaller"> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">First Edition</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><i>July 1919</i></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><i>Reprinted</i></td> - <td class="tdr"><i>January 1920</i></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class="titlepage smaller"><span class="smcap">All Rights Reserved</span></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_ix"></a>[ix]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="FOREWORD">FOREWORD</h2> - -</div> - -<p>Captain Buchanan has done me the honour -of asking me to write a short preface to a work -which seems to me at all events of peculiar -interest. To write a preface is a difficult task, -unless one has some real <i>raison d’être</i> for the -task; yet I find it difficult to refuse, if only -for my intense admiration for the part played -by the battalion with which the author was -so long and honourably associated—the 25th -Royal Fusiliers.</p> - -<p>The author’s qualifications to write this -work are undoubted, not only from his stout -record as a soldier, but also through his previous -experience as a traveller, explorer, and student -of Natural History. When war broke out -Captain Buchanan was engaged on behalf of -the Provincial Government of Saskatchewan, -Canada, in investigating the country in the -far north, west of Hudson Bay, and studying -and collecting the rarer flora and fauna. He -had been for nearly a year many hundreds of -miles out of touch with any other white man. -The first rumour of war did not reach him -until the end of October, when he at once -struck south to a Hudson Bay Fort, which he -reached at Christmas. Without delay he left -to join up, and in but a month or two had<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_x"></a>[x]</span> -changed his habitat from almost the Arctic -Circle to the Equator.</p> - -<p>Readers will be able to follow the fortunes of -that wonderful unit, the 25th Royal Fusiliers, -through the campaign, and will perhaps gain -thereby an insight into this strangest of all -side-shows more true and illuminating than -a more comprehensive work. There was little -that this old Legion of Frontiersmen missed. -Comparisons are odious; yet I think it may -safely be said that no other white unit took -so full a part in the diverse stages of the -campaign. They bore the long and arduous -months of frontier and railway guarding in -1915. They took no mean share in the spectacular -capture of Bukoba. Their mounted -infantry as well as ordinary rank and file, took -part in many of the small but intensely trying -patrols through the thorny scrub along the -Serengeti plains. General Smuts’s operations -around Kilimanjaro saw them. Right to the -fore were they in the long and tiring treks, -varied by frequent and fierce rear-guard actions, -which took place down the Pangani and -southward through the bush and forests to -the capture of Morogoro; and onwards again -right down to the Rufiji. They bore that -cruelly hard period through the rains of 1916, -when they held the Mgeta line against a -numerically superior foe, living literally in a -swamp for months, riddled through and through -with fever. In January, 1917, when General -Smuts made his final effort to crush the opposition,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_xi"></a>[xi]</span> -Colonel Driscoll and his men were -right in the van, and here among others they -lost Captain Selous, that great hunter and -greater English gentleman. After a brief -period in the south we find them back in time -for the final stages of the campaign. Here -they went in from Lindi to take part in the -fighting of 1917, fighting so bitter that all the -previous work was but as child’s play in -comparison. Lest it seem that I exaggerate, -let me say that, with a force of about half the -size, the casualties during these last four -months were three times as great as those -throughout the whole previous two years. -There was indeed hardly an action in which -the battalion did not take part, until that -day on the 18th of October, 1917, when, while -covering a temporary retirement, they were -overwhelmed by immensely superior numbers -and cut to pieces.</p> - -<p>The author does not harp overmuch on the -sickness and privations of his comrades—he -has been through too many of them to do so; -but I am reminded of the remark of one of -them during the not infrequent periods of -grousing which every respectable British -soldier must have. “Ah, I wish to h⸺ I was -in France! There one lives like a gentleman -and dies like a man, here one lives like a pig -and dies like a dog.” There may have been -something in this remark, yet I have thought -as I saw the 25th staggering on, absolutely in -rags, many with fever actually on them,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_xii"></a>[xii]</span> -nearly all emaciated and staring-eyed, that -they were living, if not like gentlemen, at all -events like Men.</p> - -<p>There is one point of view that I would like -to put before readers in estimating the debt -that those of us <i>who live</i> in Africa owe to these -men—and that is this: when once the coastal -belt was reached, and after the departure of -General Smuts and practically all his South -African fighting troops, it became apparent -that European infantry, generally speaking, -could no longer compete on even terms with -the native soldier. The handicap of climate -became too great. The European could no -longer stand marching under a load, and -more than that, the continual fever and sun -sapped the “essential guts,” so that it became -<i>almost</i> impossible for white troops to meet -the German-African troops—led, of course, -by trained and well-fed German officers and -N.C.O.s—with any fair prospect of success. -Such a fact boded ill for the future prestige -of the white race. Yet it may be said that -the Fusiliers soared triumphant even over -this handicap; and they can boast, without -fear of contradiction, that up to the very end -no German field company would look with -other than apprehension to meeting the 25th -on even terms. I have always felt that the -prowess and endurance of these fine men during -these last months have done more to uphold -our prestige and ensure the firm future of our -rule than is likely to be adequately realised.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_xiii"></a>[xiii]</span></p> - -<p>An estimate of the campaign as a whole is -scarcely yet possible. It will probably be -years before a just view can be taken of a -side-show that is believed to have cost more -money and many more lives than the whole -of the South African Campaign. Many mistakes -were made, and it is more than possible -that the lion’s share of what credit posterity -may have to bestow will fall on Von Lettow -and his comrades. Yet there were many -factors which caused the task which Generals -Tighe, Smuts, Hoskins, and Van Deventer -did eventually accomplish, to be of almost -unparalleled difficulty.</p> - -<p>The question asked very often, and one -which is likely to be of interest to posterity, -is: How were the Germans able to prolong -their resistance and, in fine, to make such a -determined struggle against our very superior -forces? In answer the following points seem -to merit consideration.</p> - -<p>In the first place the enemy had in the -person of Colonel Von Lettow an outstanding -personality, and a soldier whose merit it is -hard to over-estimate. It will, moreover, always -form one bright spot on the blackened -German escutcheon that in his operations -during the campaign, personally speaking, his -conduct was as clean as it was efficient.</p> - -<p>When war broke out the local military -position was overwhelmingly in favour of the -Germans. They had ready, at a conservative -estimate, 2,000 to 3,000 trained whites and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_xiv"></a>[xiv]</span> -8,000 native troops, with some 70 machine-guns -and 40 guns. Against this we, on our -side, had in British East Africa about 700 -native soldiers and 2 machine-guns, one of -which was out of action, and not more than -100 whites with any military experience at -all. This force might possibly have been -duplicated in Nyasaland. With this early -crushing superiority it is obvious that expansion -on the one side was easy—on the other a -matter of extraordinary difficulty.</p> - -<p>In connection with this point it must also be -borne in mind that in British East Africa the -natives are for the very large part, not soldiers, -but agriculturists by nature; whereas German -East Africa teems with natives who form -as fine material for soldiers as any in the -world. This point is always worth remembering -since, because of it, while Germany held -German East Africa, she was a potential -menace to the whole continent.</p> - -<p>Unity of command again was with the -Germans to a striking degree. For on our side -was ever command so divided? Our main -force working from East Africa contained -troops from almost every portion of the globe, -speaking different tongues, having different -habits, eating different foods, fighting in different -ways. From Nyasaland and Rhodesia, -General Northey with his small force brilliantly -fought his way into the enemy’s country, for -long not only not under our Commander-in-Chief, -but not even administered by the War<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_xv"></a>[xv]</span> -Office. From the west our most gallant Allies -the Belgians pushed forward to Tabora, and -later worked in direct co-operation into the -very heart of the enemy’s country. On the -south there were the Portuguese.</p> - -<p>The advantages which the Germans had -over us in this matter were worth many -thousands of rifles.</p> - -<p>It is certainly undeniable that after the first -eighteen months our combined force largely -outnumbered our adversaries. Yet at his -strongest Von Lettow probably mustered 25,000 -to 30,000 rifles, all <i>fighting</i> troops. A not -inconsiderable army on the basis that we, on -our side, had to estimate that it took four to -five soldiers to get one fighting man into the -firing line.</p> - -<p>It will naturally be assumed that at all -events in the matter of equipment and arms -we had the advantage, but until the very latest -stages it may be doubted if this was so. Two -incidents will illustrate this. During the latter -part of 1916 a German prisoner, being taken -past a spot where some of our artillery units, -which shall be nameless, were parked, remarked, -“the movable armament from the -Ark, I should imagine!” And, indeed, his -naval guns, his 42-in. howitzers, and quick-firing -mountain guns were far ahead of anything in -our possession. Again, late in 1917, a German -doctor came in to demand back one of his -medical panniers abandoned on the field. We -returned it with reluctance, as it was a very<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_xvi"></a>[xvi]</span> -fine set, the latest model in 1914. However, -in response to repeated and urgent indents -and “hasteners,” new equipment for our own -medical department was that moment arriving. -It was far in advance of anything we had seen on -our side, but was plainly marked 1906. I shall -not soon forget the sneer on that doctor’s face.</p> - -<p>It is true that twice in the campaign the -Germans were on short commons in the matter -of small-arm ammunition, in spite of their -enormous pre-war accumulation, but in each -case, most unfortunately, a blockade runner -relieved the situation. Later on, unfortunate -captures prevented a shortage which would -have appeared inevitable.</p> - -<p>Again, the Germans worked throughout on -interior lines and were able, for the most part, -to choose the areas in which their resistance -would be stiffest. Such spots were naturally -where they would gain the fullest advantage -from their knowledge of the country, and -where the evil climate would exact the most -murderous toll from our white and Indian -troops. These considerations should, I think, -be borne in mind by those who feel, as many -must, that the cost in blood and money was -altogether in excess of the results obtained. -In any case it is to our credit that having put -hand to the plough we did not turn back. It -is for those who in the future will reap the -benefit to see that the worthiest use is made -of the vast country which the efforts of those -who have fallen have placed in our hands.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_xvii"></a>[xvii]</span></p> - -<p>The wild animal and bird life encountered -throughout the campaign formed a most distinctive -feature. This especially applies to -the last stages, when the fighting in the south-east -corner of the Colony was conducted in -territory almost virgin to the naturalist. This -applies equally to the insects both large and -small, which in many cases were as unpleasant -as they were intrusive. Captain Buchanan is -well qualified to discourse on these subjects, -and his observant notes are most instructive. -Let us hope that some day he may find an -opportunity of renewing his researches under -happier circumstances.</p> - -<p>In conclusion of these few remarks let me -wish Captain Buchanan the utmost success -in putting his book before the public. If only -others read it with the same interest and -enjoyment with which it has filled me, I can -only think that the author’s work will not -have been in vain.</p> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Cranworth.</span></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_xviii"></a>[xviii]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="PREFACE">PREFACE</h2> - -</div> - -<p>In accomplishing the conquest of German -East Africa, many columns were put in the -field. Those had their starting-points from -the British East Africa frontier in the neighbourhood -of Kilimanjaro Mountain, from Lake -Victoria Nyanza, from the Belgian Congo, -from Rhodesia, and latterly from the East -Africa coast. To cover wide fronts of great -extent of country, the forces from each of -those bases advanced in their particular area -in two, three, or more columns. This narrative -deals directly with the operations of a -single column, but, as operations throughout -the columns were similar, it may be found, in -part, to be generally descriptive of much that -was experienced by all columns.</p> - -<p>On actual operations in German East Africa—not -including the operations on the frontier -during 1915, nor the countless distances covered -on patrol—our unit marched some 850 miles -with the column, in the following stages: -Kilimanjaro area, 194 miles; to the Central -Railway, 335 miles; Morogoro-Rufiji area, -260 miles; and Lindi area (to date of my -departure), 61 miles. Those distances are not<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_xix"></a>[xix]</span> -direct to their objective as the crow flies, -for they had often a zigzag course, and sometimes -even doubled back to a fresh starting-point.</p> - -<p>It has been my endeavour to include every -detail of experience, and, in doing so, I trust -that at some points I have not laid too much -stress on the hardships of the campaign. They -were all in the day’s work, and were taken -as such, no matter how irksome they were. -Of them General Smuts, in a dispatch of -27th October, 1916, said:</p> - -<div class="blockquote"> - -<p>“Their work has been done under tropical -conditions which not only produce bodily -weariness and unfitness, but which create -mental languor and depression, and finally -appal the stoutest hearts. To march day by -day, and week by week, through the African -jungle or high grass, in which vision is limited -to a few yards, in which danger always lurks -near, but seldom becomes visible, even when -experienced, supplies a test to human nature -often, in the long run, beyond the limits of -human endurance.”</p> - -</div> - -<p>Little reference has been made in the narrative -to the number of our casualties, nor was -that possible. A recent casualty statement—at -the end of 1918—records the casualties of -the East African Campaign as: 380 officers -killed, 478 officers wounded, 8,724 other ranks -killed, 7,276 other ranks wounded, 38 officers<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_xx"></a>[xx]</span> -missing (including prisoners), and 929 other -ranks missing (including prisoners) = 896 officers, -16,929 other ranks.</p> - -<p>This is the only statement of casualties I -have seen, and I give these figures with every -reservation, doubting the aggregate and its -completeness.</p> - -<p>They will, however, suffice to show that -there is a remarkable percentage of killed, -and this may largely be put down to the -closeness of the fighting, and that at times -the attacking forces were advancing on entrenched -positions without protection of any -kind to themselves.</p> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Angus Buchanan.</span></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_xxi"></a>[xxi]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">CONTENTS</h2> - -</div> - -<table> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"></td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdpg smaller">PAGE</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"></td> - <td><span class="smcap">Foreword</span></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#FOREWORD">ix</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"></td> - <td><span class="smcap">Preface</span></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#PREFACE">xviii</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr smaller">CHAPTER</td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdpg"></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr">I.</td> - <td><span class="smcap">Outward Bound</span></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">1</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr">II.</td> - <td><span class="smcap">Frontier Life</span></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_II">17</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr">III.</td> - <td><span class="smcap">Cattle Raiders</span></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">43</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr">IV.</td> - <td><span class="smcap">The First Advance</span></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">64</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr">V.</td> - <td><span class="smcap">The Second Trek</span></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_V">87</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr">VI.</td> - <td><span class="smcap">The Third Stage</span></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">125</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr">VII.</td> - <td><span class="smcap">The End of the Campaign on German Soil</span></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">173</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr">VIII.</td> - <td><span class="smcap">Nature Notes</span></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">200</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr">IX.</td> - <td><span class="smcap">Here and Hereafter</span></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">225</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr"></td> - <td><span class="smcap">Index</span></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#INDEX">242</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_xxii"></a>[xxii]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> - -</div> - -<table> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Lukigura River</span></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus1"><i>Frontispiece</i></a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td class="tdpg smaller">FACING PAGE</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Kilimanjaro</span></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus2">34</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">The Neck at “German Bridge”</span></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus3">92</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">German Paper Rupee</span></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus4">106</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Native Kraal</span></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus5">144</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">A Good Bag: 268½ lb. of Ivory</span></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus6">160</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Tandamuti</span></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus7">188</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Ostriches</span></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#illus8">202</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2" class="tdc1">LIST OF MAPS</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">From the Frontier to Morogoro</span></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#map1">86</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Morogoro to Rufiji River</span></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#map2">124</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Lindi Area</span></td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#map3">172</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_1"></a>[1]</span></p> - -<h1>THREE YEARS OF WAR<br /> -IN EAST AFRICA</h1> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I<br /> -<span class="smaller">OUTWARD BOUND</span></h2> - -</div> - -<p>It was raining in London. It had been -raining all day, and for many days previous, -and to-night the atmosphere of damp and -greyness pervaded the very soul of the city -outdoors.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">FRONTIERSMEN AT WATERLOO</div> - -<p>Number Seven platform, at Waterloo Station, -was crowded with troops and baggage, -about to depart for service with the B.E.F. in -East Africa. They had arrived at the station -at 6 p.m. At 11 p.m. they were still there -grouped about in talkative jollying clusters, -apparently indifferent to the delay in entraining.</p> - -<p>Everyone knows this type of crowd nowadays, -but in this case, and as commonly with -men garbed in identical uniform, no one -could tell with any accuracy the remarkable -variety of character of the men, or the -extent of their notability. Joe Robson, who<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_2"></a>[2]</span> -was standing apart—a quiet onlooker—thought: -“It is almost a pity that the individual -loses his individuality in the army and -becomes a stranger in a strange crowd.” -What would that group of schoolboys say, -and the inquisitive idle crowd in general, if -they knew that here in the ranks, beneath -the guise of homogeneous khaki, were gathered -many men from all the world over? Men -who had come to fight for their native land -from Honolulu, Hong-Kong, China, Ceylon, -Malay States, India, New Zealand, Australia, -South and East Africa, Egypt, South America, -Mexico, United States of America, and Canada? -Men from the very outer edges of the world; -in Ogilvie’s words:</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">Lean men, brown men, men from overseas,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Men from all the outer world; shy and ill at ease.</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>Some were men who had taken part in -Arctic exploration; others were of the North-west -Mounted Police and of the British South -Africa Police; even a cowpuncher or two from -under the flag of the U.S.A. were amongst -this force of frontiersmen. And there were -among them: good sorts, bad sorts, rich sorts, -keen sorts, game sorts—all sorts!</p> - -<p>Here also, holding the rank of subalterns, -were some famous hunters, setting out again -on adventure. F. C. Selous, the renowned -big-game hunter and naturalist and explorer, -was there, and Cherry Kearton, who, like his -brother Richard, “shoots” with his camera<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_3"></a>[3]</span> -and has specialised in photographing big game -in Africa. Then there were George Outram -and Martin Ryan, hailing from divergent -corners of our colonies, who were reputed -old hunters who knew, by long association, -the vast hunting-grounds in Africa, as well -as you or I, perhaps, know our grouse moor -at home. And, lastly, at the head of all -stood Colonel Driscoll, the leader of “Driscoll’s -Scouts” in the South African War.</p> - -<p>Yes, there was a spirit of romance on -Number Seven platform on this evening of -April 1915. But, as is often the case with -romance, it was obscure to the ordinary -vision of the spectator, and but dully realised, -if realised at all. So, for the most part, those -troops remained commonplace, and passed -from London, as thousands of other troops -do, out to an unknown destination under -cover of the night.</p> - -<p>It was 2 o’clock next morning when, after -long waiting, the train finally drew out of -Waterloo. Between 11 p.m. and 1 a.m., by -twos and threes, friends of the troops had -taken their last farewells and departed, taking -sadness with them, and leaving, here and -there, a disconsolate soul behind.</p> - -<p>How many touching, aye, last farewells -have been witnessed by the soulless shed of -that vast station since war began! How many -brave souls have laughingly departed never -to return!—their one great love their Home, -their Empire’s honour.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_4"></a>[4]</span></p> - -<p>The battalion’s destination—the port of -sailing—was unknown, except to those in -command, but in the early dawn of morning -it became apparent to all, as we passed along -the borders of Somerset and Dorset and on -through Devon, that we were <i>en route</i> to -Plymouth.</p> - -<p>At 10 a.m. we drew up in Plymouth Docks, -there to embark on H.M.T.S. <i>Neuralia</i> (Glasgow).</p> - -<p>The day was spent in embarking the troops -and baggage to their allocated stations on -board ship; and in the depth of a pitch-black -night, when all was ready, we cleared the docks -and steamed slowly out of Plymouth Sound, -in company with others of a convoy, and -commenced our voyage “outward bound” to -Africa.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">ON BOARD A TROOPSHIP</div> - -<p>There are times in all men’s lives when they -go through experiences that remain for ever -remarkable, either because they are so new -and unexpected, or because they contain so -much of pain and hardship. The men new -to travel—and there were a number of them—who -embarked on the good ship <i>Neuralia</i> -will remember, to the end of their days, their -first experiences on board a troopship and -their first voyage to the tropics; for it contained, -for them, all the hardship of their -new life of soldiering, and all the romance -and pleasure of seeing a completely new and -unexpected world.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_5"></a>[5]</span></p> - -<p>Conversation on board ship dealt largely -with contrasts. Old pictures were compared -with new and, in most cases, within the mind -of the intelligent individual each fresh experience -brought new expression and wide awakening. -Young men who short weeks before, -and all their lives, had enjoyed all the comfort -and ease of home life were now feeling the -first rigour of army service.</p> - -<p>Robson, an observant old soldier, heard -much of his neighbours’ little troubles. It -was common to hear the warm, soft, white-sheeted -bed at home ruefully recalled by the -men, when rolled in coarse grey blankets on -the hard deck, or, chrysalis-like, bound in -hammocks slung from the ceiling in the -impure atmosphere below. Also to hear, when -men viewed their portions of bare, often ill-cooked -rations, fond recollections of Sunday -dinners at home, or a lucid description of a -favourite dish. Personal comparisons those, -which would have in time become odious had -they not usually evoked laughter from some -buoyant spirit, and the request to “Shut up, -you old Funeral!”</p> - -<p>It was much the same with everything of -this new environment—the men’s clothes, -their boots, their fatigue work (deck-scrubbing, -etc.), all were of a rougher nature than that -to which they had been accustomed in pre-war -life.</p> - -<p>The process of securing and ensuring hardihood -had begun, and, as time went on, the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_6"></a>[6]</span> -men, particularly the good ones, came to see -the purpose of it and, generally, to laugh more -than to “grouse” at their difficulties.</p> - -<p>Were they not, after all, starting out on the -greatest adventure of all—the stern pursuit -of a perilous quest—and was not a rough -life part of the setting to be expected and -contested?</p> - -<p>“Assuredly yes,” thought Robson. “I who -am an old traveller know it. Before you again -see England you, who are ‘green hands,’ -will have seen and experienced what ‘roughing -it’ really is, and you will be the stronger -men for it; you who live through.”</p> - -<p>While the change of personal surroundings -was being discussed and searching out men’s -weaknesses, the <i>Neuralia</i> was proceeding -daily on her way—overjoying the men, in -their idle hours, with the new scenes constantly -presenting themselves, and stirring awake -excited anticipation of the adventurous country -to which they were going.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">GIBRALTAR</div> - -<p>The ship’s course—the war-time course—held -south, well west of France and Spain -and outside the Bay of Biscay. The first -few days had been dull, for sea-sickness and -strange quarters affect the best of spirits, -but by the time the ship ran into Gibraltar, -on the fourth day, everyone was about deck -and cheerful.</p> - -<p>No shore leave was granted at “Gib.,” nor -was there any real time for it. The ship lay -off “the Rock” only a few hours—the time<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_7"></a>[7]</span> -required to take off, from launches, a few -troops for Malta and some fresh vegetables. -From the sea the towering Rock looked -magnificent—grave, strong-featured, impressive. -From the ship’s side the eye could just -discern the houses around the base of the -promontory, clustered like molluscs on a -rock, the white-bright dwellings of the inhabitants -rising tier above tier from the water’s -edge to the sheer rock face a little distance -inland from shore. A few light sailing craft -were dodging about in the foreground, out -on their habitual occupation of the day, -making pleasant pictures when they swept -past with full white sail taut in the breeze. -Alongside, a number of native row-boats, which -had raced for the ship from shore as soon as -it anchored, were doing thriving business in -cigarettes, cigars, and tobacco, which gaily -dressed Moors, and other low-caste tradesmen, -were disposing of rapidly at their own figures -to the improvident Tommies.</p> - -<p>Dear old Gib., so proudly British, to many -it was the entrance to the promised land of -adventure, and the portal of farewell to things -that are near and dear to home.</p> - -<p>The ship sailed amid the gay raillery and -cheers of Tommies to the barter-boats, but -behind the laughter there lurked, perhaps, a -tear, for this was the final, irrevocable, parting -of the ways.</p> - -<p>The good ship was now in the Mediterranean -Sea—fast bidding good-bye to Europe,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_8"></a>[8]</span> -and with Northern Africa distantly in sight, -at times, on our starboard beam.</p> - -<p>It pleased many on board, at this stage, -to get a hint of Africa’s vastness. Here were -they sighting the Continent on the fifth day -out from England, and yet they knew that -they must have about twenty days of travel, -hugging her shores, before they could reach -their destination on the East Coast of that -same continent.</p> - -<p>This set some of the more enterprising -Tommies to establishing a “range card,” and, -after questioning good-natured ship’s officers, -they arrived at the information that our -journey from Gib. to Mombasa was one of -roughly some 6,000 miles.</p> - -<p>This “range card” was:</p> - -<table> - <tr> - <th></th> - <th>Miles</th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Gibraltar to Malta</td> - <td class="tdr">1,200</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Malta to Port Said</td> - <td class="tdr">1,125</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Port Said to Aden</td> - <td class="tdr">1,675</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Aden to Mombasa</td> - <td class="tdr">1,950</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr">Total</td> - <td class="tdr total">5,950</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p>It was pleasant, now, forging ahead day after -day, through sunny seas, neither storm-disturbed -nor storm-delayed. Fair weather and -placid sea, and the mellow wind of a southern -spring—indeed we had found the Mediterranean -in gracious mood. And under a clear -sky is there another sea like that of the soft<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_9"></a>[9]</span> -cobalt blue of the Mediterranean? It is not the -commonplace sea, for it has lost all that is -grey or blackish, and lives completely and -wholly blue—blue as the overhead April sky; -even more blue, more alluringly attractive.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">MALTA</div> - -<p>On the morning of the eighth day the ship -worked slowly into the snug but narrow harbour -at Malta, while all along deck deeply interested -troops conversed on the unfolding view of this -quaint and foreign port, dressed for the business -of war and bristling with grim fortifications.</p> - -<p>British and French warships lay in harbour, -and merchant vessels of all kinds—suggestive -of the great activities of war in this quarter of -the world, for here routes touched to the war -zones of Egypt, Gallipoli, Mesopotamia, India, -and Africa.</p> - -<p>Here, as at Gibraltar, the boat hawking -tobacco vendors arrived alongside from shore -in their small craft, plying clamorous trade -with the good-natured troops, until the arrival -of the coal barges put them to flight.</p> - -<p>The ship coaled all day and late into night; -a process conducted by swarms of gibbering -ill-thriven Maltese natives, meagrely garbed -in ragged loin-cloths, who filed, endlessly, up -plank gangways from the barges to the coal -bunkers in the ship’s side, each with his -loaded wicker basket hoisted shoulder high.</p> - -<p>Coaling is a filthy business. Before evening, -despite awnings and closed port-holes, the fine -coal-dust had sought its way into every conceivable<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_10"></a>[10]</span> -corner of the ship, to be roundly abused -and accused by a thousand discomforted -Tommies. None were sorry to get it over, and -all rejoiced when, the following morning, the -ship hove anchor and took again to the clean-winded -open sea.</p> - -<p>Before departing, at early dawn, it was a -strange sight to see row-boats from shore -dredging the shallow harbour, with small bag -nets, for the oddments of coal which had fallen -overboard during the process of coaling—patient -labour for a mere pittance of reward that -forcibly suggested the value of fuel to the low-caste -natives of the island.</p> - -<p>Fair weather continued, and the next few -days were as pleasant and generous of speed as -those preceding our arrival at Malta. A noteworthy -occurrence was the northern-bound -migration of bird life which was encountered -on the 19th and 20th of April. Many swallows -and doves were seen and a few yellow wagtails, -while a whitethroat and a screech owl -were picked up on deck. At the time most -migration was observed the ship was about in a -longitudinal line with the island of Crete.</p> - -<p>On the morning of the twelfth day the ship -arrived at Port Said, at the entrance of the -Suez Canal, and anchored for a few hours—not -long enough to go ashore and get any real -first impression of the place. But it marked an -important stage in the voyage; and the colonial, -somewhat oriental, appearance of the town -on the west shore of the Canal entrance, close<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_11"></a>[11]</span> -to which the ship had anchored, was predictive -of things Egyptian, and of the weird beauty -and strangeness of the Land of Deserts.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">THROUGH THE SUEZ CANAL</div> - -<p>Leaving Port Said, the Suez Canal was -entered, and slowly the ship proceeded on her -course up the narrow fairway; but not before -sand-bags had been stacked on the bridge for -protection from enemy sniping, for we were -now in a theatre of war.</p> - -<p>On entering the Canal, which, between its -low banks, is straight and of apparent width of -a city thoroughfare, the first view, at this -season, is of mud flats and shallow sheets of -water, like flooded fen country; colourless of -green, except for a few isolated tufts of grass -or dwarfed shrub.</p> - -<p>Soon this changes to the dry level plain of -sand desert, endless as far as eye can see on -land, and featureless in geographical outline -if one seeks profile or form. There were many -outposts stationed along the Canal, safeguarding -it from Turkish enemy who longed to wreak -destruction on it. And they made picturesque -scenes, those outposts on the desert, with their -chalk-white groups of clustered conical tents, -standing prominent in the unbroken desolation -of pale wastes of sand. On the outskirts of -camp were a few patient camels and some -soldiers—helmeted British Tommies or turbaned -Indians—all sharply outlined in firm -silhouette, since they were darker in colour -than the dead flat background.</p> - -<p>By evening the ship was well up the Canal,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_12"></a>[12]</span> -and the scene was very beautiful and impressive -then. Far as the eye could see on either -side were deep desolate stretches of limitless -desert, unbroken by the slightest undulation. -Overhead, the sky was soft and peculiar; -singularly wistful and hazed and unlike any -sky one sees at home, while a brilliant rainbow, -foreboding, perhaps, a light shower of rain, -lit up and went out low on the north-east -horizon, away, apparently, at the uttermost -edges of the world, where sand and sky merged -almost without any visible line.</p> - -<p>It was strange brooding country, and it -infused a vein of solemnity into the atmosphere, -for it held a suggestion that it had something -to say, could it but give utterance, as an unexpressed -thought may do which lies dormant -for unknown ages through the long, long life -of mankind.</p> - -<p>At daybreak the ship arrived at Port Suez, -having completed the passage through the -Canal during the night. Here ammunition -was taken on board before proceeding onward -a few hours later.</p> - -<p>Suez was left with regret. Many were sorry -to go to sea from a land so attractively picturesque -and so full of indefinite mystery.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">IN THE RED SEA</div> - -<p>And in after days it was men’s habit to look -back on this one brief glimpse of Egypt and -recall it as the most novel and memorable -picture of the many which unfolded before their -eyes on their voyage to Africa. The fast-moving -ship was now sailing the Red Sea, and we were<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_13"></a>[13]</span> -experiencing that for which it is famed—excessive -heat. Damp, cold, and wintry it had been in -England when the troops had sailed, and men -had cursed the weather roundly, as soldiers will, -but now, lolling listlessly about deck, victims -of oppressive heat, they would fain have recalled -a little of that northern temperature for -the benefit of bodily comfort. However, the -heat brought about one good service, for it -caused the “powers that be” to issue orders for -all ranks to hand in their home service kit to -Stores and be supplied with the light tropical -khaki drill outfit customarily worn in hot -climates.</p> - -<p>The troops were now settled to the routine -of ship-board, and in leisure hours even the -novelties of sea and new scenes became less -astonishing the more they grew familiar with -them.</p> - -<p>The days in the Red Sea passed without -particular incident. The weather remained -phenomenally fine, and the sea charmingly -clear and blue—almost as blue as that of the -Mediterranean. Large numbers of flying fish -were seen soon after leaving Port Suez; the -first of their kind to be observed. With their -transparent wings and long bodies they looked -like magnified dragon-flies in their short flights -over the water.</p> - -<p>About this time the shortening of the hours -of daylight was noticeable. On the 26th of -April dawn was at 5 a.m. and dusk at 6.45 p.m. -The North Pole Star, too, was now low on the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_14"></a>[14]</span> -horizon, as the ship drew farther and farther -away from the northern hemisphere, and nearer -to the Equator.</p> - -<p>On the 17th day land was in sight on both -bows. Strange land; of pronounced geographical -change in the formation of the prominent -mountains. They were not generally -round and rolling and soft as the hills at home, -but flat-topped, and severe as a cliff-head at -their summit, their steep-rearing slopes terminating -abruptly in a definite horizontal line. -The whole was apparently rock and boulder, -barren of any covering of foliage.</p> - -<p>The sight of land was a forewarning of approach -to Aden, and late at night, some hours -after dark, anchor was dropped outside the -harbour.</p> - -<p>There was little sleep for anyone on board -at Aden, unless you had cast-iron nerves and -hearing, for coaling was started almost immediately -the ship anchored, and continued throughout -the night. The uproar of a thousand puny -jabbering Lascars, and the run of the coal -down the chutes, made merry music for devils’ -ears, but not for sleepless Tommies.</p> - -<p>Next morning, before sailing, Aden was -viewed from the ship’s side, but it was too far -to land to glean much. The settlement was -at the base of towering ragged mountains and, -judging by the gathering of houses close to -the shore front, it was apparently a small -place, and principally a military station.</p> - -<p>Here, for the first time, numbers of that<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_15"></a>[15]</span> -well-known camp thief, the Egyptian kite, -were seen gathering their food by robbing the -defenceless gulls of the meat scraps that they -picked up overboard.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">NEARING EAST AFRICA</div> - -<p>At 10.30 a.m. Aden was left behind. It was the -final port <i>en route</i>, and the ship steamed down -the Gulf against a light headwind on the last -lap of the voyage. She was soon well out to -sea, and land was not sighted again until, six -days later, her destination was approached. -The third day out from Aden, in dead calm -weather in the Indian Ocean, the best run of -the voyage was recorded—337 miles.</p> - -<p>Otherwise the final days were uneventful, -except that there was a good deal of bustle and -confusion in preparation to land. Arms and -ammunition were issued, equipment fitted, and -everything got in readiness for the journey up -country to the frontier, which was to be -immediately undertaken on arrival in port.</p> - -<p>On the morning of the 4th of May the battalion -landed at Mombasa—twenty-four days -after our departure from Plymouth.</p> - -<p>The bugle sounded <i>Réveillé</i> at 5 a.m.—one -hour earlier than usual; and while all were -dressing, low-lying shore came into sight, rich -with abundant tropical tree growth, and green, -for it was the rainy season and leaf was new. -A little later the ship anchored in the harbour -of Kilindini, and, in due course, commenced -the disembarkation of troops and stores into -barges, and thence to the landings on shore. -It was late evening ere the labours of transportation<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_16"></a>[16]</span> -had ceased and all were landed and -entrained, ready to proceed up country in the -narrow, antiquated, wood-seated carriages of -which the train was composed.</p> - -<p>There had been no time for cooking, and -everyone was hungry, for the last meal had -been at 12 noon on the previous day. However, -some hours after commencing the train -journey, the train was stopped at a small wayside -station about midnight, and hot tea and -rations were served to the famishing troops. -In after days all knew much more about going -hungry—not for a day, but for many days—but, -looking back now, it was strange that the -very first experience in Africa was one of short -rations and lean “interiors.”</p> - -<p>Thus an imperial unit had come to East -Africa; to join Indian and Native African -forces already holding the frontier against -the enemy in German East Africa.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_17"></a>[17]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II<br /> -<span class="smaller">FRONTIER LIFE</span></h2> - -</div> - -<p>Routine in the early days of war, in the camps -on the frontier of British East Africa in 1915, -was like unto a watch-dog’s duties.</p> - -<p>The Uganda Railway, running parallel to -the boundary from Mombasa, on the East -Coast, to Kisumu, on Lake Victoria Nyanza, -had to be vigorously protected from raiding -parties; and a force larger than our own had -to be held at bay until a sufficient army could -be sent out to take the field and the offensive.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">ENCAMPMENTS AND PATROLS</div> - -<p>Small encampments, manned with a handful -of daring, miscellaneous soldiers, had sprung -into being all along the frontier.</p> - -<p>Every station along the boundary was alert -and aware of the presence of enemy; and -frequent were the alarms and skirmishes.</p> - -<p>Amongst thorn “bush,” in dreary landscape -of consistent sameness, those stations were -everywhere hidden—a mere gathering of small -tents, within limited enclosures built up of -sharp-spiked, tangled, thorn-tree branches. -These enclosures were called “bomas,” and -were, against an enemy surprise, as complete -a protection as barbed wire. Water, always<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_18"></a>[18]</span> -the chief concern of existence in Africa, was -usually in the neighbourhood of those encampments. -Sometimes, if the camp was a main -station, water was brought by pipe line from the -hills; but most often, the supply for a small -camp was that of the adjacent muddy “water -hole.” They were those stagnant pools of -water so often spoken of by travellers who -have written of interior Africa and know her -thirst. Those pools of water—a single pool in -a swampy bed or in a barren river bottom—are -of uncertain quality and of uncertain supply. -It was usual to place a guard over such scanty -supply, and order a very bare ration to be -served to each individual each day.</p> - -<p><i>Patrols</i> were the chief concern of those bush -encampments. They were unceasingly active, -daily, nightly, moving out into the vague, half-unmapped -country, to cover many miles in -quest of enemy patrols or raiding parties.</p> - -<p>Those patrols seldom covered less than ten -miles a day, more often twenty miles; while -occasionally long distances were covered that -necessitated a party being out from three to -six days.</p> - -<p>In this manner the frontier was kept fairly -clear of enemy; especially in the neighbourhood -of the camps. The grass was tall, and -the bush, in places, very heavy, so that ambush -and surprise encounters were not infrequent. -On those occasions casualties were, sometimes, -on both sides heavy; but usually it was the -side which laid the ambush which scored most<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_19"></a>[19]</span> -heavily. To illustrate this: on one occasion, -on the 4th of September, 1915, at Maktau, a -party of our M.I. was ambushed and rather -badly cut up by the enemy. The casualties -in killed were eleven Europeans and three -Indians. During this encounter a young British -officer named Dartnell won the V.C. for refusing -to surrender to the enemy, and fighting -right out to a finish against great odds. -Ten days later this same enemy company -was ambushed by our forces and completely -routed, leaving thirty dead Askaris and one -German officer on the battle-ground.</p> - -<p>On the whole it was this sort of ding-dong -fighting all along, with the British forces holding -the stronger hand. Patrols were constantly -expectant of an engagement of some description, -and many became very expert bushmen -as months of this type of fighting went on.</p> - -<p>On the 19th June, 1915, four hundred of our -unit found themselves detraining at Kisumu, -on Lake Victoria Nyanza, after a long train -journey which had lasted one day and one -night. On the low shore of the lake edge -they camped, near to the wharf and half-roofed -freight sheds, while other detachments -came in on the railway and joined the force. -During the day, there were concentrated here, -beside us, detachments of 29th Punjabis, King’s -African Rifles, Loyal North Lancashires; and -28th Mountain Battery, with their array of -fine looking Sepoys, and sturdy, well-groomed, -well-fed mules.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_20"></a>[20]</span></p> - -<p>By noon on the following day, which was -a Sunday, everyone had been packed on to -the small lake steamship craft which lay at -the wharf in readiness, and the expedition -sailed thenceforth, out through the Kavirondo -Gulf into the great lake.</p> - -<p>The ships had been filled to their utmost -capacity, above deck and below, and it was a -motley crowd that occupied every yard of -deck space, while pack-mules and store -cattle stood roped to the ship’s rails on the -upper deck. Forward, each vessel had a gun -mounted, and a space roped off and cleared -for action.</p> - -<p>Thus we sailed from Kisumu to raid the town -of Bukoba on the 22nd and 23rd June; a -prosperous trade town within the German -colony, on the south-west shores of the lake, -which was the base of enemy activities against -the Uganda Frontier in the vicinity of the -Kagera River, and which contained a powerful -wireless plant, by which the enemy were able to -obtain, and send, important communications.</p> - -<p>All night, and all the next day, we sailed -the great lake, Victoria Nyanza, and we had -been some thirty hours on board when, at -sundown on the second day, we drew near to -the enemy’s territory and slowed down, -awaiting the fall of darkness.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">RAID ON LAKE VICTORIA NYANZA</div> - -<p>It was thought to effect a night landing -and make a surprise attack on the town, and -plans were all prepared for this. In this connection -three privates were voluntarily selected<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_21"></a>[21]</span> -for a novel undertaking: it was arranged -that an Australian bushman, a Canadian -from the Yukon, and self (I was then a private) -were to go ahead at landing and try to overpower, -and kill if necessary, a certain sentry -whose post was known to our command. -But all plans were changed in the end, for, -about midnight, when our lightless phantom -ships were drawing in to Bukoba, wakeful -watchers on a high island, that lay out in the -bay before the town, detected our approach in -the light of the half-full moon, and five great -rockets shot in warning into the sky. The -alarm was out! Soldiers in the town would -be rushing to arms and our landing on the -beach would now be in the face of enemy -waiting to receive us. Thus, plans were -changed, and the ships drew away from shore, -beyond the vision of the enemy, and stood to, -waiting for dawn.</p> - -<p>When dawn approached we again moved -toward land. A force was to threaten a -landing away south of the town, while the -main forces drew in behind a long promontory -north of Bukoba Bay.</p> - -<p>Close on dawn our ship dropped anchor -and boats were lowered; and, one by one, -they were filled with troops, and left the ship’s -side for shore; while the ship trembled from -stem to stern beneath the shock of her gun-fire, -which was now rapidly shelling the heights -before us, and the hidden positions beyond. -Beneath the steep hill-face of the promontory<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_22"></a>[22]</span> -each boat ran aground on the beach, and the -troops scrambled overboard and waded ashore.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">ATTACKING BUKOBA</div> - -<p>It was breaking daylight when we began -filing up the steep mountain-side, which was -cliff-like in places, and the climb to the top -proved a stiff one, of close on a mile in distance, -and very breathless were we when the -summit was reached, while we judged it our -great good fortune that this awkward ground -had been covered unopposed by enemy. Advancing -across the summit, south toward -Bukoba, some resistance was encountered -there in the banana plantations and forest, -but the real fighting did not begin until we -reached the southern slopes and looked out on -the town of Bukoba, some two miles distant, -situated on low land that swept back from -the shores of the lake to the foot of the hills, -and over the intervening bouldered, rocky -hill country, and on to the commanding -heights, above the town, on the west and south. -It was then that serious fighting began, and -all day—while the ships shelled from the -lake—we fought in attack against the enemy, -who, to begin with, held out amongst the rocks -and clumps of trees in the broken hills before -us, and who, latterly, defended the commanding -hills north-west of the town.</p> - -<p>It was real guerilla warfare. From rock to -rock one could see men dodge, while puffs of -smoke puffed in and out from behind scores -of rocks, and from many a tree-clump bottom. -The enemy were here using the old ·450 rifle<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_23"></a>[23]</span> -and black powder and lead bullets, hence the -prominence of the smoke-puffs. On the whole -front all was visible, even the enemy’s single -piece of artillery, which was plainly seen in -position by the river-side in the low flat -ground north of the town, and which the -Mountain Battery guns in a short time knocked -out of action, before turning their attention -to the enemy machine-guns, which were not so -easy to deal with.</p> - -<p>In the afternoon we worked down the last -of the hill-slopes under constant fire of our -foes, and, toward evening, gathering our tired -limbs under us, a charge was ordered. Across -an open meadow we doubled, cheering lustily; -through swamp and river, almost neck-high -in water, and, finally, up the hill-side opposite, -and on to the lower hill-top of the enemy’s -coveted position commanding the town; there -to lie, panting breathlessly, picking off the -fleeing enemy that we could see dodging among -the rocks in endeavour to reach the higher hill, -across a ravine and to the west of us.</p> - -<p>Meantime the Loyal North Lancashires, -who had made a wide flank movement, were -advancing in on the higher hill from the west; -and ere darkness set in we were in full possession -of the chief positions.</p> - -<p>Had there been more daylight, it is possible -that we should have taken the town this day, -for the enemy were on the run; but darkness -overtook us, and night gave the enemy opportunity -to reorganise.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_24"></a>[24]</span></p> - -<p>We camped for the night on the hill, chilled, -and blanketless, and foodless; for no supplies -followed us as it was a short undertaking. In -the early part of the night, the force which -had made a demonstration to the south of -the town were landed on the beach near to us, -and joined our force.</p> - -<p>At daylight a fighting line was formed across -the flats, from the hills to the lake; and an -advance began toward the town in face of -steady rifle and machine-gun fire. The river -we had crossed yesterday had swung southward -and ran parallel with the lake, and here -again proved an obstacle, and many of us got -thoroughly wet crossing and recrossing it. -Also, in the morning, in the heat of the early -fighting, a thunderstorm burst and heavy -rains fell, while we lay in the grass drenched -to the skin for an hour or two, and rifle -locks choked with sand and moisture. For -a time firing ceased on both sides; to -resume again as it cleared. Bit by bit, we -pushed on across the flat, to be held up for a -time before the entrance to the town; and -then, breaking the opposition down, to enter -the town without further resistance on the -heels of the fleeing foe.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">WIRELESS STATION DESTROYED</div> - -<p>But there we did not stop, for our unit -passed on through the town—which had a -beautiful broad main road parallel to the lake -front, and many fine Colonial residences within -flower-decked, shaded grounds—and occupied -the high hill-summit on the south, while,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_25"></a>[25]</span> -in the town, the great power-house containing -the wireless plant, and the fort, and all ammunition -and stores, were blown up and -destroyed by our engineers.</p> - -<p>Late in the afternoon we evacuated the hills -and came down through banana plantations -on to the road and into the town; there to -witness the impressive burial of our fallen -comrades near to the central square.</p> - -<p>At sundown re-embarkation commenced, -and at daylight the following day the ships -drew out from Bukoba pier, and lay to, waiting -until the outlying pickets were gathered in. -When they put out from shore and were taken -aboard, we steamed away northward to get -back within our frontier, while most men lay -down anywhere and slept, for there had been -little rest since we had landed three days ago.</p> - -<p>On the 26th June we were again in Kisumu, -and were given a joyous reception by the -natives, who showed extraordinary interest in -the affair.</p> - -<p>Three days later we were back in camp—back -to the bush, and the routine of frontier -patrols.</p> - -<p>To give some little idea of the ordinary days -of life in a frontier encampment the following -notes may serve:</p> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Maktau</span>, <i>20th Aug., 1915.</i></p> - -<p>Fortifying camp, taken over yesterday. All -day on trench construction. Gangs of our -fellows working well and cheerfully. Hearty<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_26"></a>[26]</span> -jokes among themselves constantly brace them -against their trying labours in the excessive -heat.</p> - -<p>Patrol attacked near camp this morning by -enemy party trying to mine the railway. One -private killed, three wounded. The enemy -scattered and cleared off as soon as the first -surprise shots were over. They attacked from -hiding cover in the bush, whence they had -viewed the approach of our patrol down the -bare straight line of the single-track railway.</p> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Maktau</span>, <i>21st Aug., 1915</i>.</p> - -<p>On trench work all day, same as yesterday. -Dust-begrimed and filthy. Hope for opportunity -to wash and change to-morrow.</p> - -<p>Last night an Indian sentry was shot by -enemy who crept up to the camp entrance in -the darkness.</p> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Maktau</span>, <i>22nd Aug., Sunday</i>.</p> - -<p>Trench work in early morning and again in -forenoon; then “knocked off” all hands for -Sunday relaxation.</p> - -<p>Early this morning enemy again on Voi -railway near here. This time they succeeded -in laying mines which blew up the line and derailed -an incoming train. Enemy got clear -away.</p> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Maktau</span>, <i>23rd Aug., 1915</i>.</p> - -<p>Railway line repaired and open to traffic -this morning.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">A WATCHFUL ENCAMPMENT</div> - -<p>On outpost last night on kopje below Signal<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_27"></a>[27]</span> -Hill. Nothing untoward occurred, though -this picket had been twice attacked lately. -Strong S.W. Monsoon blowing: bitterly cold -for sentries on windward front of kopje. -Damp mist driving over the level bush-land -below us, obscuring everything in the early -morning.</p> - -<p>Silent dawn, except for the strident cry of -guinea-fowl, spur-fowl, and hornbills; and -the lesser “cheepings” of awakening songbirds -that mouse-like stirred amongst the -surrounding foliage.</p> - -<p>Picket relieved at 9 a.m. It was dark at -6.15 p.m. and day dawned at 5.30 a.m. Sunrise -three-quarters of an hour later.</p> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Maktau</span>, <i>28th Aug., 1915</i>.</p> - -<p>Out on patrol all day over country west of -camp. Party, ten whites and two natives. -Uneventful day—no enemy sighted or tracked.</p> - -<p>Three rhinoceros encountered at close -quarters; one being a very large one with -splendid forehead horns. All were allowed -to go their way unmolested, since they showed -no inclination to charge, and pleasure shooting -was not permissible in enemy country.</p> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Maktau</span>, <i>3rd Sept., 1915</i>.</p> - -<p>Out on reconnaissance, to position enemy -holding about eight miles west of our camp. -Moving quietly through bush—our party two -whites and two porters.</p> - -<p>On outward journey ran across a rhinoceros,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_28"></a>[28]</span> -who charged on hearing stick break underfoot; -but he stopped about ten yards short, -when he then got our wind, and cleared off -rapidly with a quick turn and snort, apparently -afraid of us. Self and companion, at the -sound of the rushing crash of the charge, had -backed behind stoutish trees, with rifles ready, -but the natives, in an incredibly short moment, -had squirmed frantically into the bushes overhead. -They were fully frightened, poor -wretches—but they were low-caste porters.</p> - -<p>Observations were made of enemy camp while -lying close to position in evening and early -part of night. Later, slept under a tree in -the bush. Night bitterly cold; dozed intermittently, -but keeping a wakeful uneasy eye -for the most part. Idly watching the stars -when awake. The Southern Cross set about -9.30 p.m. and the pointers about midnight.</p> - -<p>Saw many eland on return journey, beautiful -beasts. In shape and solid form they are at -a distance like Jersey cattle in an English -park. Also saw one lion, three jackals, some -herds of Grant’s gazelle, and about a dozen -mongoose.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">OPERATIONS IN DIFFICULT BUSH</div> - -<p>On reaching camp heard of M.I. engagement, -already mentioned, from which our -men had just returned. On our travels we -had almost been over the ground on which -the engagement took place, yet in the maze -of bush and tall grass we had seen nothing. -It is very difficult, for those who have not -seen the country, to conceive how terribly<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_29"></a>[29]</span> -possible secretive work is in this virgin bush-land, -where vegetation grows luxuriant and -rank in vast uninhabited areas. It is not the -enemy in themselves that are the difficult -foe to conquer; it is the bush that hampers -everything, and hides almost all of the evil -planned against us. The unpleasant game, -though it is a game on a much larger scale, is -like hunting a snake in the long grass. And -who was ever sure of trapping a snake unless -he was come upon unawares, and a complete -ring formed around his chosen cover? Even -then, notwithstanding the great care with -which the cordon may close in, the snake -may escape through an unguarded yard of -grass, just as a patrol, or an army, if it has -sharp eyes everywhere, may escape, under -cover of the screening bush, through the -narrowest of openings and be gone and hopelessly -lost in a single night.</p> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Maktau</span>, <i>1st Oct., 1915</i>.</p> - -<p>To-day an aeroplane made an ascent from -camp. This is the first flight made here, -and the African natives were spell-bound in -amazement at sight of the wonderful machine -and its graceful flying. At once they termed -it “Ndege” (the Swahili for “bird”), and -thereafter they always called aeroplanes by -that name.</p> - -<p>’Planes should prove of immense value to -us out here now that they have been landed -in the country. The Germans have no<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_30"></a>[30]</span> -machines, and are very unlikely to succeed -in securing any, since they are isolated from -the outer world and the open seas.</p> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Tieta Hills</span>, <i>26th Dec., 1915</i>.</p> - -<p>After holding the ranks of private, lance-corporal, -corporal, and lance-sergeant, it has -been my fortune to receive my commission. -I leave the ranks with regret, for it has, on -the whole, been a gay, care-free, rough-and-tumble -experience, and one which teaches -that among all types “a man’s a man for a’ -that,” and that there are few who have not -their finer feelings beneath any kind of veneer.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">NIGHT SCOUTING</div> - -<p>At 9.30 p.m. moved out to watch railway, -at a point five miles from camp, hoping to -catch mine-layers. Dark night; starlit sky, -but no moon. Sentries on outskirts of camp -spoken to, and passed. Party wearing -moccasins, boots on hard road or in dry -bush very noisy. Alert to catch the slightest -sound, hearing being more important than -sight in the darkness.</p> - -<p>About 11 p.m. held up by rhinoceros moving -about on left of road, breaking undergrowth -and branches close ahead. Could not see -whether he meant to charge or not, and there -was a moment’s suspense on that account, -but eventually he moved off quietly. Later, -at first railway crossing over road, below a -great dark mango tree on the river-side, the -leading scout caught a glint of the small, red -glow of a dying fire. We halted and waited,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_31"></a>[31]</span> -but no sound was audible, though a man’s -breathing could have almost been heard in -the calm stillness. On venturing forward, -a deserted fire, almost out, was found. Whoever -lit it had used it and gone, but they had -left a mark that would arouse suspicion. -Such signs of the enemy’s presence were -constantly being found. The moon rose at -10.30. Everything clear then, and our forms, -moving stealthily along at wide intervals, -showed dark on the dust-white road. Reached -point on road overlooking railway about midnight -and lay down in bush, each of the four -comprising the party in turn keeping watch -to detect any movement of enemy.</p> - -<p>Night passed quietly, stirred only by African -sounds. Among the high trees on the river-bank, -beyond the railway, monkeys yelled -occasionally and snapped off dry branches -as they swung from limb to limb. A solitary -owl hoo-hooed away out in the distant darkness, -and once or twice the weird clatter-ratchet -of a hornbill, wakeful in the moonlight, like -a barndoor fowl, broke the stillness.</p> - -<p>Sometimes, too, an animal of prey would -betray its presence and its prowling: the deep -blood-curdling howl of the hyena and the dog-like -bark of the jackal at times awoke the -silence, for one or two brief moments, ere, -phantom-like, they were swallowed in the -dark, fathomless pit of night, and lost on their -onward trail.</p> - -<p>At daybreak, white morning mists came down<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_32"></a>[32]</span> -over the bush-land and obscured everything; -soon they rose again and cleared.</p> - -<p>Back from the roadside, in the bush, we -made a small fire and warmed and cheered -ourselves with a hot cup of tea.</p> - -<p>Later we returned pleasantly to camp, -having joined in with the railway patrol, -which came out along the line at daybreak -some fifty strong.</p> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Namanga</span>, <i>27th Feb., 1916</i>.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">SEARCHING DIFFICULT COUNTRY</div> - -<p>A small reconnaissance patrol climbed the -densely bush-forested slope of Ol Doinyo Orok -mountain to-day. Mountain-sides overcrowded -with trees, cactus, and undergrowth, in tropical -uncultivated confusion. Contrary to the usual -in country of this nature, no roller-like game -paths of the ponderous rhinoceros could be -found breaking a way to the higher ground. -The ascent was therefore begun up a small -river-course, in a delightfully picturesque -ravine down which trickled and murmured a -stream of running water. Progress was made -slowly up this water-course, for the way was -continually obstructed by huge granite -boulders, and cliff-like falls which were surmounted -only by the aid of a rope. By stiff -climbing we completed about half the ascent, -and were then confronted with impassable -cliffs over which scanty water trickled. The -patrol then branched off the course of the -stream, and attempted to find easier passage -through the forest above the ravine on the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_33"></a>[33]</span> -right. This forest, however, proved desperately -difficult to penetrate, compelling us to -continual stooping, and forcing of way, through -cruel barriers of jagged, tearing thorn. Here, -too, the ascent was very steep, and, at times, -detours had to be made to avoid an unclimbable -cliff face. Defeat was unpalatable; otherwise -we must early on have given up the -undertaking. As it was, we stuck grimly to -our task, and finally reached the summit at -4.30 p.m.</p> - -<p>On our ascent on the east bank of the river, -a cave had been found which, by reason of -newly cut sticks and an old fire, had evidently -been used by enemy scouts, at the time of -our advance into this area, a few days previously. -Otherwise, the mountain held no -signs of recent occupation.</p> - -<p>After resting a short time, and exploring -the plateau on the summit, the descent was -commenced. All might have gone well, but -darkness came down before we were half-way -out of the bush, and then our troubles really -began. It was impossible to see more than -a yard before one, and thorn and boulders -and pitfalls played havoc with faces and -limbs, as downward we clambered laboriously -in the inky darkness. It was, at one time, -proposed, in despair, to give up, and to camp -where we were without blankets, but at that -time some one made the inspired suggestion -to use lighted faggots. This idea was carried -into force, and by the aid of their uncertain<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_34"></a>[34]</span> -light we were able to grapple with, and partly -avoid, the barriers of cruel fanged bush, and -at last managed to extricate ourselves from -the deep forest of shapeless, sightless jungle. -But not until the entire patrol was torn and -bleeding and sore, and completely, almost -hopelessly, tired out. They were sadder and -wiser men who wearily dragged into camp -long after midnight, avowing everlasting denunciation -on African jungle.</p> - -<p>Nevertheless expeditions of this kind were -commonplace enough to scouts who endeavoured -to understand almost every landmark -on our border that might harbour the enemy. -Sometimes they were fruitless expeditions, -sometimes they were the means of obtaining -valuable information.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">RAINS, SNOWFALL ON KILIMANJARO</div> - -<p>For the greater part of the year those -frontier operations were carried on in the excessively -hot, unchangeable climate of tropical -Africa. Through the intensive heat of the -piercing overhead sun, the routine work went -on day after day, and month after month. -Not until December was there change, and -then there was a period of heavy torrential -rains. But ere the month was out they had -ceased again, and the rich green foliage of the -acacias, which had sprung in a day to life, -had begun to fade and lose their freshness; -so soon does the blazing sun dry up the -abundant rainfall, and scorch the very earth.</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus2" style="max-width: 62.5em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus2.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Kilimanjaro from South-West: 19,700 feet.</span></p> -</div> - -<p>Locusts, and their following of storks, are -heralds of the Rains, and near to that season<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_35"></a>[35]</span> -great clouds of them were seen. Remarkable -swarms of locusts were witnessed on the -25th November and 5th December, 1915, -and again on 21st February, 1916. Great -clouds of them, darkening the very sky in -their tens of millions, drifted down wind -slowly, in a south-westerly direction, over -camp on those dates; and above them, on -the last occasion, high in the sky, followed a -very large flight of black and white storks, -sailing along, with the ease of a floating -feather, with wing-still, wind-poised motion, -apparently planing on the banking of the air; -and now and then checking their onward -flight, to swing slowly and gracefully in a -circle, as if to hesitate and examine the ground -far underneath them.</p> - -<p>At the time of the Rains, too, fresh snow -fell on Mount Kilimanjaro, the highest mountain -in Africa, with the elevation of over -19,700 feet. In 1915 the first fresh snowfall -was on 25th November, and on the morning -of that day a new white coat of snow mantled -the peaks of Kibo and Mawensi, and well -down their slopes.</p> - -<p>A native once told me that if he could climb -to the far-off glistening snows, he would find -rupees. And he seemed seriously to believe -that the snows, which glinted silver-like in -the sun, were unattainable wealth.</p> - -<p>On the frontier, when not scouting, or on -patrol, or on picket, it sometimes fell to our -lot to have a day in camp.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_36"></a>[36]</span></p> - -<div class="sidenote">ROUTINE IN CAMP</div> - -<p>In camp, “<i>Réveillé</i>” was at 5.30 a.m.—just -about daybreak. The able men then -dressed, and, outside their tents, shook out -their dust and insect-ridden blankets, in which -they had slept on the bare hard ground. The -lazy, and the seedy, and the really sick men, -slept on fitfully until the last possible moment -before the “Fall In,” at 6.30 a.m.; then -reluctantly to turn out in cheerless spirit.</p> - -<p>On early morning parade “the roll” was -first called. The sick were then excused from -duty, and the remainder marched off with -shovels and picks and axes to dig trenches -and construct overhead shell-shelters, wherever -the fortifications of our encampment required -strengthening.</p> - -<p>Such mornings passed quickly, and work -went ahead, for, in the cool of the rising day, -the labours were not unpleasant. Most men -made light of their morning’s work, and -enjoyed getting up a keen healthy appetite -ere the “Fall Out” for 8 o’clock breakfast.</p> - -<p>Breakfast consisted generally of a measured -ration of bread, cheese, and tea: sometimes -bacon replaced the cheese, sometimes jam.</p> - -<p>The second morning parade fell in at 9 a.m., -and again the men in camp were sent on to -the fortifications. But now work was carried -on in the heat of the tropic sun, for a soldier’s -duties are at any hour of the day or night, -and in any weather, in any hemisphere. They -laboured on in the heat, swearing and joking -(I think a soldier will joke, aye, even in<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_37"></a>[37]</span> -H⸺) and perspiring, and with faces and -clothes smothered in the fine red lava sand, -which was raised by the labouring picks and -shovels, or which incessantly wafted down-wind -in gusts off the bare compound of the -encampment. But, nevertheless, the work -went forward, for it had to go, and defences -became duly more and more impregnable. -About noon the working party fell out for -lunch, which consisted of a ration of bread, -jam, and tea.</p> - -<p>Lunch over, the men rested until 4.30 p.m. -Some fitfully slept under stifling hot canvas, -others washed clothes down by the trough, -or bathed themselves with water from a -bucket, standing naked in the open; while -still others gambled, mildly, over halfpenny -nap and threepenny bridge.</p> - -<p>The afternoon parade fell in at 4.30 p.m. -and worked as before on trenches for another -hour and a half. It was then time to “Fall -Out” for dinner.</p> - -<p>Dinner consisted <i>always</i> of badly cooked -stew, an unchanging dish which became deadly -monotonous, and which, in time, many men -could not touch, their palate revolted so strongly -against the unseasoned, uninviting mixture.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">SHORT RATIONS</div> - -<p>I have particularly mentioned food, because, -even when rations were full—and they were -often not—our soldiers were nearly always -troubled with that subject throughout the -East Africa Campaign. It is wonderful what -men, living outdoors, can subsist on, but, at<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_38"></a>[38]</span> -the same time, I will never believe that the -cut-and-dry army ration, as served in Africa, -is sufficient for men carrying on arduous -operations in an intensely tropical climate. -All units experienced a tremendous amount -of sickness, and I am certain, in my own -mind—and many others agree with me—that -at least half of the sickness was caused, directly -or indirectly, from lack of full and proper -nourishment for a prolonged period. Transport -difficulties, and the greater wars in Europe, -no doubt had a strong guiding influence with -the commissariat; and for such, allowances -must be made. I have but little inclination -to raise the subject now, for the roughness of -war is always to be expected and borne, but -for the future it is well to write down the -harsh experiences of the past so that others, -in like undertakings, may gain an insight -into such things, and prepare for them, or -seek to obtain a reconstruction. Food was a -big question in Africa, and, if such a campaign -should be called for again in any far-off -country, administrators would do well to give -serious thought to a serious subject that -might well in the end save the nation both -life and expenditure.</p> - -<p>On the frontier, men had very few means -of adding to their rations. Parcels from -home, in many cases, found them most of the -luxuries they ever enjoyed. Again, at some -places a venturous Goanese trader set up -small wood-framed shack-stores, and dispensed<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_39"></a>[39]</span> -to the troops a few odds and ends in very -limited quantities. The chief luxuries (?) which -the men sought I give below, and a comparison -in African and English prices:</p> - -<table> - <tr> - <th></th> - <th colspan="2" class="smaller">Trader’s Price.</th> - <th colspan="2" class="smaller">English Price,<br />1915.</th> - </tr> - <tr> - <th></th> - <th class="smaller"><i>s.</i></th> - <th class="smaller"><i>d.</i></th> - <th class="smaller"><i>s.</i></th> - <th class="smaller"><i>d.</i></th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Tea, per lb.</td> - <td class="tdr">2</td> - <td class="tdr">6½</td> - <td class="tdr">1</td> - <td class="tdr"><span class="frac">10</span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Sugar, per lb.</td> - <td class="tdr">0</td> - <td class="tdr">6½</td> - <td class="tdr">0</td> - <td class="tdr">1½</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Butter, per lb.</td> - <td class="tdr">1</td> - <td class="tdr"><span class="frac">4</span></td> - <td class="tdr">1</td> - <td class="tdr"><span class="frac">2</span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Milk, condensed</td> - <td class="tdr">0</td> - <td class="tdr"><span class="frac">11</span></td> - <td class="tdr">0</td> - <td class="tdr">6½</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Worcester Sauce</td> - <td class="tdr">2</td> - <td class="tdr"><span class="frac">0</span></td> - <td class="tdr">0</td> - <td class="tdr"><span class="frac">9</span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Soap, per lb.</td> - <td class="tdr">0</td> - <td class="tdr">10½</td> - <td class="tdr">0</td> - <td class="tdr">3½</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Cigarettes, “King Stork,” per 10 packet</td> - <td class="tdr">0</td> - <td class="tdr"><span class="frac">2</span></td> - <td colspan="2" class="tdc">—</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p>On those groceries, or such-like, every penny -of a man’s pay was often spent the day he -received it. Whenever the trader received -a fresh lot of goods the news would fly about -camp, and, as soon as night-fall came and -liberated the soldiers from duty, he would be -besieged by toil-worn troops hungry for -luxuries, and speedily everything in demand -would be sold out.</p> - -<p>In one other way was it sometimes possible -to obtain a change of diet: that was by -game shooting. A good many buck, wart-hog, -guinea-fowl, and partridges found their way -into camp at one time or other, and furnished -a few fortunate ones with a very welcome -addition to the routine fare.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">GAME HUNTING WITH SELOUS</div> - -<p>One of the first hunting outings which I -experienced was with Capt. W., Lieut. F. C. -Selous, and the “Doc.,” when I accompanied -them on a trek to make a sketch of certain<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_40"></a>[40]</span> -country they were going into. We were at -this time camped in the open upland bush near -Kajiado. Mounted on mules we had travelled -overnight to a selected camp. Selous—fine -sportsman that he was—was as keen as ever on -a hunt, and the party were merry as sand-boys.</p> - -<p>Next morning all were astir at daylight. -Before breakfast some spur-fowl were shot -close to the near-by water-hole, and fried for -the meal. They were delicious eating. After -breakfast the mules were saddled and mounted, -and we rode onward. In the forenoon we -sighted one lion—which escaped under cover -of a thickly bushed valley—two wart-hog, -three waterbuck, a few hartebeeste and -mpala, and many giraffe. Selous had an unsuccessful -shot at an mpala, but, otherwise, -the game were allowed to go unmolested, as -all were wild and no exceptionally good heads -were singled out. We made the noon halt in -rolling, somewhat open bush country and -haltered the mules, to picket them there. -After lunching the party went in divergent -directions on foot. Capt. W. and self proceeded -to the highest hill-crest in the neighbourhood, -and I there settled for the afternoon -to pencil a panoramic sketch of the -country before me. Capt. W. then left me. -Later I learned he had, on his return tramp -to camp, shot a hartebeeste for meat. But -game proved very wary. Selous and the -“Doc.” returned without securing a single<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_41"></a>[41]</span> -head, though they had seen mpala, eland, -giraffe, and a rhinoceros. Masai natives were -grazing many cattle in this area at the time -of our visit, and the game were evidently kept -moving and wild by constant disturbance of -the cattle and their cattle-herds. At any rate, -as far as game heads, and meat, were concerned, -it was not a successful outing. But it was all -very enjoyable and a holiday from soldiering. -To me it was a memorable outing because it -recalls to mind one of my first meetings with -Selous. It was the first of many meetings, for, -in after days, we joined in many a successful -hunt, the old hunter and the young attracted -together by a mutual enthusiasm for Nature -and the Open Road.</p> - -<p>These, above, are a few notebook entries. -It will be seen that a soldier’s life in 1915 was -not without variety and adventure in a theatre -of war of which the outer world, in those days, -heard very little. Yet it was the beginning of -a great undertaking which, in its turn, has been -overshadowed, almost overlooked, on account -of the gigantic world-war raging in Europe, -and resounding on England’s doorstep.</p> - -<p>Towards the end of 1915 rumours were -prevalent that strong South African forces -were to arrive in the country.</p> - -<p>About the same time the Germans, who -apparently had information of our movements, -increased their activities on the border -from Voi to Kilindini. Perhaps their biggest -effort at interference was when a strong<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_42"></a>[42]</span> -force of Germans occupied the prominent hill -position of Kasigau and threatened the Uganda -Railway from the S.E. of Voi. Obviously, if -they could break on to our only up-country -railway and line of communication, at such a -time, they had much to gain. However, in -this they were forestalled. Forces were sent -to oppose them in their mountain stronghold, -on the heels of their arrival, and eventually -they were forced to evacuate without accomplishing -anything.</p> - -<p>At this period signs were not wanting of the -coming of forces. Around the old camps -extensive spaces were cleared of bush in readiness -for camping grounds. Supplies of all -kinds arrived daily, by train or by wagon -transport, and were stacked in huge piles in -the open. Everywhere, in the frontier camps, -could be seen added activities and increased -optimism.</p> - -<p>For two months this sort of thing had been -going on, until one fine day—the 16th of -January, 1916—the first large contingent of -South African troops passed through Voi, -and detrained at Maktau. The critical period -was over; here was compensation at last for -long months of waiting and watching.</p> - -<p>Daily the arrival of troops, horses, mules, -and baggage went on, and daily our spirits -rose at the prospect of the coming advance -into the enemy’s country.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_43"></a>[43]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III<br /> -<span class="smaller">CATTLE RAIDERS</span></h2> - -<p class="center smaller"><i>Note.</i>—The figures in this adventure are fictional: otherwise -the setting and the theme are real.</p> - -</div> - -<p>Saidi-bin-Mohammed, native of East Africa, -had been to the war a year. When the English -had gone to the borders of his country to face -the German enemy, Saidi had followed his -white master.</p> - -<p>One day in June, about 5 o’clock—about -that time of day most pleasant in Africa, when -the sun is lowering in the west and losing its -intensive piercing heat—Saidi, tall, and straight -and athletic, was busied outside his small grass -hut, cleaning his equipment and rifle with the -interest and care of one who had pride in dearly -loved possessions. Across the dry, bleached, -much-trampled opening of the encampment, -which lay in the midst of virgin bush-land, -appeared the gaunt figure of a British officer. -He stooped, as with age, and his dark, tanned -face bore heavy traces of exposure and hardship, -in the deep-lined furrows which covered -his forehead, and in the fine lines that contracted -to the corners of his tired eyes. But, -though worn and lean, he had still about him<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_44"></a>[44]</span> -the bearing of resolute manhood—the bearing -of one who is strong to endure and conquer, -even under difficulties and a merciless tropic -sun. Clive Clifford had, in the old days, -been a pioneer of unbound frontiers, and a -hunter of big game: to-day he was a famous -scout; a man whose knowledge and whose -word carried weight in the highest quarters -of command.</p> - -<p>He approached Saidi, who smiled broadly -seeing that his master, whom he held in high -regard, came to him. Clifford spoke in the soft, -halting consonants of the Swahili language, -and addressed his “boy” in kindly manner, as -a man speaking to a trusted servant. “Saidi,” -he said, “get ready. We go out to-night, -you and I, and stay out many days. Eat -food now; and be ready to leave in an hour.”</p> - -<div class="sidenote">SINGLE-HANDED ADVENTURE</div> - -<p>Some hours before, half a dozen Masai warriors -had run into camp to report that enemy -had stolen many of their cattle, and were -driving them off across the border. Clifford -heard the story. He knew the country the -enemy were plundering, and volunteered at -once to go in pursuit. It was an adventure -dear to his heart.</p> - -<p>At dusk they quietly left the noisy, troop-filled -camp—the master leading, Saidi following. -They were mounted on wiry, donkey-like -Somali mules, animals so small that they -appeared disproportionately overburdened with -their load and their well-filled saddle-bags. -But in this they were deceptive. Clifford<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_45"></a>[45]</span> -knew them, from long experience, to have no -equal in animal transport in the country. -Tireless little animals they were, grit to the -back-bone, and strong to endure long, heart-breaking -treks.</p> - -<p>Clifford was fully armed, with rifle and cartridge-filled -bandolier; as was his boy. A -“slouch” hat, a sleeveless khaki shirt, open -at the neck; and a pair of shorts, leaving the -scarred, sun-burned knees bare and free, was -Clifford’s uniform. Undress, but near to coolness -and comfort as possible—and protective -in colour, for, when smothered in dust, as all -would soon be, his light drill khaki would be as -a tussock of sun-bleached grass or a hillock of -sand, if danger bid him take cover....</p> - -<div class="sidenote">NIGHT AND WILDERNESS</div> - -<p>Some hours later, after making good time -in the cool of early night, the travellers began -to work clear of the low thorn-bush, and -emerged into open, somewhat mountainous -country. Clifford was travelling west now, -and travelling fast; feeling his way over the -country to some distant prearranged destination. -Saidi, the expert guide, was out in the -lead—for no white man has eyes or hearing -equal to the black in his native country. Both -travellers were dismounted and led their mules. -They wound their way through tall valley -grass, breast high and dust-laden; over pools -of mud, long sun-baked and waterless; then -out, finally, on to rising ground strewn with -lava rock and volcanic boulders. It was -weird wilderness country, barren of habitation—virgin<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_46"></a>[46]</span> -and waterless as on the day of Africa’s -dawning.</p> - -<p>The night progressed uneventfully. Nothing -suspicious was encountered. No tracks of -the cattle raiders were crossed. The air was -breathlessly still, and it was oppressively hot -in the valleys.</p> - -<p>Toward midnight the waning moon drooped -lower and lower on the horizon—and went out. -Travelling then became slower and more -wary; occasionally man or mule stumbled -over a boulder painfully and noisily in the -breathless darkness. No conversation passed -between man and servant. Tirelessly they -padded on, each certain of the other’s knowledge -almost as animals are certain of the bypaths -to their lair. For them the night held -little mystery. They were startled not by -the grim silhouettes of zebra, or hartebeeste, -when, at a dozen yards, they chanced upon -game herds which galloped off into the night -like riderless squadrons. Nor did the whir -of wings and frightened cackle of guinea-fowl, -disturbed at their very feet, more than -startle the mules to one brief backward jerk of -their bridle reins.</p> - -<p>Day was dawning when Saidi, who had for -some hours been following an obscure track -through the dark with his lynx eyes, gave a -grunt of satisfaction as a gap loomed visible -between two dull grey hills in front. Soon they -entered a narrow pass and prepared to make -camp in the hidden cavity between the hills.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_47"></a>[47]</span> -Here was water, and camp, and the first halt -in the march; for a dry rocky river-bed, cut -by the torrents of the brief rainy season, ran -down the pass, and there, in a deep pocket in -the solid rock, worn smooth and circular as a -gigantic porridge pot, was a pool of water, -green-slimed and stagnant, it is true, but priceless, -nevertheless, in the sun-parched desert. -The mules were off-saddled, rubbed down, and -fed; and picketed under cover of the hill-side—for -they were now in country where the -raiders might be encountered, and every precaution -was being taken to lie low and outwit -the enemy.</p> - -<p>Saidi busied himself over a small smokeless -fire, making tea for his master, while Clifford -lay idly on the ground watching the doves and -grass-finches, which in thousands were endlessly -arriving at the water-hole to drink, fearless -of human presence in their haste and need to -quench their thirst.</p> - -<p>“Water far, Saidi,” said Clifford, pointing -to the fluttering flock over the pool. “Birds -come long distance to drink here?”</p> - -<p>“Yes, Bwana” (master), answered Saidi. -“No other water nearer than one day.”</p> - -<p>By turns Clifford and Saidi slept and kept -watch throughout the day. The camp was -in the foothills of a low range, east of the -Guaso Nyero Valley. Away to the west, out -to the Nguruman Mountains, blue in the -farthermost distance, lay the far-reaching -Guaso Nyero Valley; and it was on this great<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_48"></a>[48]</span> -plain, somewhere, that the enemy were raiding -the Masai cattle. Clifford hardly expected to -find trace of the enemy until after another -march, when he would be well over the western -side of the valley, and where he knew there -was a sluggish stream and an abundance of -water—that physical essential, to man and -beast, anywhere in the land. But he was -taking no risks—nothing for granted—for a -little mistake meant life or death to the enterprise, -if not to himself.</p> - -<p>So all day long watchful eyes scanned the -western plain, but only to be rewarded with -the familiar sight of occasional dust-clouds; -sometimes kicked up by the feet of moving -game, such as zebra, hartebeeste, wildebeeste, -or buffalo; and sometimes the sport of a -whirlpool gust of wind which swiftly sweeps -the ground, finally to rear a thin spiral dust-column -tapering from the ground to a point -high in the sky.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">MASAI CATTLEMEN</div> - -<p>Toward sundown three Masai were sighted, -worming their way in and out of the long -yellow grass toward the water-hole. They -came from the west, and were travelling -hurriedly, perhaps fearfully—for ever and -anon the rear man of the trio would cast a -hasty backward glance over his shoulder. -Cunningly, in fear that foe might be at the -water, they swung wide of the pass before -approaching, and lay down while one of -their number started to steal forward in the -grass to investigate. But a shout from Saidi,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_49"></a>[49]</span> -and then an exchange of a reassuring word or -two, brought them speedily to their feet, and -into camp.</p> - -<p>Like all of the Masai race, they were strange, -red-skinned fellows, those wandering cattle -men of the open uplands; wholly naked but -for a loin cloth, and physical pictures of the -aboriginal of the plain. For arms, they had -each a long assegai, and a large mat-laced -shield. They were covered with dust—otherwise, -their bearing conveyed nothing untoward. -It would be difficult to guess that beneath -those features, cool and collected, expressionless, -almost sullen, there lurked the emotions -of men who had been near to death an hour -or two ago.</p> - -<p>After they had all drunk copiously of water, -at a little distance from Clifford, they squatted -on the ground with their knees drawn up under -their chins, and told their hurried, broken -story.</p> - -<p>In their own language they arrived crudely -and directly at essential facts.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">GERMAN FREEBOOTERS</div> - -<p>“Germans, master, many Germans,” said -their spokesman, showing, for the first time, a -spark of excitement. “This day, when sun -there”—pointing to the mid-horizon south-east—“our -cattle quiet—we cooking food; -at that time he come—one German, two German, -three German, on horse—after him come -plenty Askaris [native soldiers] driving many -cattle—cattle footsore, for long way he made -go too fast. One German ride among us—he<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_50"></a>[50]</span> -got small gun, and promise shoot to kill if we -try to run away—Askaris come soon and bind -our hands with cord; then one man stay to -watch us. In little while Germans make fire -and eat—plenty talk—plenty bottle [beer]—German -pleased. By and by German sleep. -By and by Askaris, who watch us, he sleep -too—he plenty tired. Headman, he find stone -beneath him and work cord binding hands -against it. Sometime, cord cut—soon, then, -we all free. We crawl in grass, far—afterwards -we wait and watch. When the sun there” -(pointing to sun’s position about three hours -later) “German wake—find no boy. Plenty -noise—Askari who watch us, he get plenty -beating—afterwards they tie him prisoner—German -afraid we run far and fast and go tell -British. Soon German go—driving all cattle—our -cattle too. But other cattle tired, -master, he no go quick now; and German near -his own country. He go Shombole and Lake -Natron, one day’s trail, after that, soon he -reach big German camp.”</p> - -<p>Clifford was lost in thought—the Masai had -ceased talking, and the youngest of them, a -mere lad, had fallen asleep, hunched up awkwardly, -on the bare, hard ground, weary beyond -further caring. Saidi, who had listened attentively -to all, moved off and busied himself -over a fire and his master’s evening meal. -The customary evening breeze had not arisen, -it was close and oppressively hot, and a subdued -spirit lay over the land. Clifford restlessly<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_51"></a>[51]</span> -stirred the gravel beneath his feet, lost -in his conjectures. He was wide awake and -his keen, roving eyes betokened an intelligent -mind stirred to unusual degree. The enterprise -had taken on a serious aspect. Clifford -had anticipated, if he were fortunate, he -would run up against a small raiding party of -one or two whites and a native soldier or two. -His original difficulty, he thought, would be to -track them, and overtake them. He found -himself, instead, pitted against four whites -and some dozen armed Askaris, whom he could -head off, on their southward trail, in a single -night’s march.</p> - -<p>The odds were great—too great—but he -was too far from his base to call for reinforcements; -he must go on as he was, or return to -camp mortified at having had the enemy -within reach while admitting his inability to -strike.</p> - -<p>Clifford rose impatiently to his feet and paced -to and fro.</p> - -<p>But slowly a new resolution crept into his -face and bearing, and at last his mind was -made up. He called his boy. “Saidi,” he -said, “I’m not going to stop here and go back; -I’m going on. I may not fight, for the Germans -are many; but I mean to get as near to -the raiders as I can, and, for the rest, trust -to luck and opportunity. You, Saidi, are free -to go back if you please. I cannot order you -to run the risks ahead against such odds. This -is my ‘show.’”</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_52"></a>[52]</span></p> - -<p>But Saidi was staunch and true. “Where -master go, I want to go—me not afraid,” he -said; and indeed he did not look one whit -abashed—rather was there a new-found pride -in his bearing.</p> - -<p>The undertaking thus promoted, Clifford, -with mind relieved, partook of the substantial -meal which Saidi had prepared. They then -saddled the mules, and were ready again to -take up the trail of the raiders. The exhausted -Masai were given some food from Saidi’s -saddle-bags and told to sleep at the water-hole -for the night. They were directed to follow -Clifford’s tracks in the morning, and remain at -a discreet distance from the enemy, unless sent -for.</p> - -<p>On leaving camp Clifford headed out into -the south-west, for it was his intention to -cut across the German line of flight, well in -front of them, and, before daybreak, to hide -among the low kopjes east of Lake Natron. -To carry this out he must travel hard all night. -Accordingly the pace he set off at was determined -and sustained. Man and beast perspired -freely as they toiled onward; for relentlessly -the night breeze held off, and the still, humid -air hung, like the vapours of a hot-house, -over the breathless valley. To add to the -discomfort, the trotting mules raised, from -the dust-laden grass, a fine dust which remained -suspended in the air to irritate the -nostrils and throats of the travellers, and -induce a quenchless, vexing thirst. However,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_53"></a>[53]</span> -until midnight Clifford held on his course -unfalteringly. At that hour, just before the -moon went down, he halted to rest and ease -the saddle-girths of the tired mules.</p> - -<p>Half an hour later he resumed the journey; -but on foot, now that it was pitch dark, the -mules led, and faithful, tireless Saidi out in -front trailing, with his keen eyes, over unseen -landmarks, for the low hills his master had -named.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">ACROSS THE GUASO NYERO VALLEY</div> - -<p>They were in rough country now—rough -with awkward boulders and ragged lava rocks. -Moreover, the travellers were repeatedly confronted -with yawning chasms—deep, dry, -tortuous river-beds—which barred their path. -In the inky darkness to surmount these -obstacles was difficult and delaying, and -Clifford cursed them roundly while he -“barked” his shins in scrambling up and -down banks of unknown depth, forcing his -way across in the wake of Saidi, whose -presence he could feel rather than see.</p> - -<p>To add to their difficulties, the mules were -restless. They were in fear of lions, for -twice, away northward, the night stillness had -vibrated with the awesome whouh——whouh——whouh——whouh——whouh——whouh——wwho——wwho——wwho——wwho——wwho——wwho -of the King of Beasts. -The sound brought terror to the hearts -of the mules, and delayed progress. But, -at the same time, it brought a note of good -cheer to the party, for to the experienced<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_54"></a>[54]</span> -ears of Clifford and Saidi the lions’ roar was -a good omen, coming, as it did, from the -north-west of their position: for they guessed -that the lions were among the beasts of prey -following in the track of the trekking cattle, -ready to drag down and devour the weaker -ones which became too exhausted to go on -and were outcast from the herd. If the -surmise was correct, Clifford felt sure he was -cutting in well ahead of the cattle raiders—and -only that result could compensate him -for the toil of travelling this ghastly country -in the dark.</p> - -<p>About 4 a.m. Clifford, in spite of short halts, -was feeling done up with his exertions in -keeping pace with Saidi. Hardened though -he was, he inwardly admitted he was about -finished on this trek. He halted and whistled -peculiarly to Saidi, who stopped likewise. -Saidi came back to his master, apparently -cool and tireless as ever, and sure of his untraced -road. Clifford asked him how far he -thought they were from the hills. In answer, -Saidi pointed into the darkness a little to the -left. “There, master,” he said, “close now—river -we cross last, near to hills—soon we -camp.”</p> - -<p>Thus cheered, they started on the final -tramp; but Saidi’s hills were deceptive, his -“short distance” stretched out to a good -two miles before the tired party reached their -chosen hiding-place.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">LAKE NATRON AT DAWN</div> - -<p>At the first inkling of dawn, Clifford moved<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_55"></a>[55]</span> -well into the hills and secreted the mules in -the bottom of a valley thickly grown with -cactus. From there Clifford and Saidi made -their way to a spur overlooking the plain on -the west and north. Here they concealed -themselves among some acacia bushes, after -they had made sure that, in the event of -discovery, there was a line of retreat down -either slope of the spur to thicker cover—whence -their hidden rifles could put up a -reasonable defence against odds, if need be.</p> - -<p>From where he stood in the early morning -dawn, Clifford had a wonderful view of the -wild life and of the country. Below him a -small herd of graceful antelope, known as -Grant’s gazelle, was browsing quietly in the -immediate foreground of the plain—a plain -of dry, buff-coloured grass which stretched -some two miles to the west, to the shores of -Lake Natron. In the intermediate distance -was a great herd of unsymmetrical hartebeeste -(buck of size and colour of red deer), -and pony-like zebra, moving along, in ever-changing -attitudes, busy on their morning -feed, and lending life and colour to the peaceful -scene. Along the shores of Lake Natron, white -soda deposit glistened like silver in the -lightening day, whilst the waters of the lake -appeared dyed in pink where countless -flamingoes rested. A mile or two up the -valley, at the head of Lake Natron, and to -the east of the swamp of tall green grass which -is there, rugged old Shombole mountain stood<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_56"></a>[56]</span> -prominent with its furrowed surface of deep -ravines and back-bone ridges, the whole overawed -by the sheer cliff face, and the inaccessible -plateau at the towering crest, of the most -westerly range. In many places the outer -slopes of Shombole were buff with the dry, -yellow grass of the plains, but in the ravines, -and on sheltered slopes, dark-green foliage -grew where overcrowded masses of impenetrable -cactus had found root, and an existence, -amongst the rocks.</p> - -<p>Meantime there was no sign of the enemy—nothing -moved, except droves of game in -this hunter’s paradise.</p> - -<p>Clifford estimated that he was an hour or -two ahead of the raiders, and soon he dozed -in the cool of the morning—leaving Saidi on -guard. He trusted the boy completely, for -the experience of long months had proved him -always faithful and fearless to serve. Faithful -as a wonderful dog was Saidi, and “greater -faith hath no man.” Saidi worshipped his -master.</p> - -<p>Some hours passed—Clifford had fallen into -profound sleep after his long night’s exertion, -for he was more easily tired now than in the -old days before he knew the impairing ravages -of fever. The heightened day found Saidi -still at his post. But he was now tense and -alert, and his eyes were eagerly fixed on a -cloud of dust approaching from the north. -There were the raiders! of that he was sure; -for he had seen a horseman break off to the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_57"></a>[57]</span> -right, clear of the dust, for a moment or two. -However, he would not wake his master yet; -the raiders were far out at present, and the -cattle they herded moved very slowly.</p> - -<p>In a short time, however, he espied two -horsemen riding forward, at an easy gallop, -clear of the herd. They were probably coming -on ahead to select their noon camp, confident -that the plain was uninhabited but by themselves. -Seeing this, Saidi woke Clifford, who -was instantly on his feet, and eager to sight -the enemy.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">DARING</div> - -<p>Immediately a daring scheme of attack -flashed through Clifford’s mind—the enemy -were playing into his hands in separating -their forces. Hastily he lifted his rifle, spoke -a few excited words to Saidi, and started to -steal through the grass down to the plain on -the west. Once on the plain they scrambled -and crawled, under cover of a dry, shallow -rivulet, seeking to reach the probable line -over which the advancing horsemen would -pass. Over a mile they laboured, slowly, -awkwardly, until, scratched, torn, and breathless -with their mad haste, they lay still; -near to the place on which the enemy were -bearing.</p> - -<p>As Fate would have it, the horsemen bore -straight down on them, utterly unaware of -danger. Clifford whispered to Saidi that he -was to shoot the nearest horse at the same -time as he (Clifford) fired. With their rifles -in the grass, and with heads low, they watched<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_58"></a>[58]</span> -and waited. Grim was the expression on their -faces now, all outward excitement had gone: -nerves were set, and “steeled” against the -coming effort. Suddenly—when the horses -were barely fifteen yards away, Clifford whispered -tersely, “Now!” Simultaneously, both -rifles spoke, and all was violent struggle and -confusion on the ground in front. Clifford -stood upright and fired quickly again. Then, -harshly, he called out a command in German, -while like a flash his rifle swung to his right -and remained aimed at its object. Unmoved, -he ordered Saidi from his hiding-place. Both -horses were down, and the nearest German; -the other German had his hands up, covered -by Clifford. Saidi removed the German’s rifle, -which lay on the ground where it had been -thrown when the horse, with its rider, fell. -The prisoner was then speedily bound and -gagged, so that he could not warn the others, -and concealed in the rivulet ditch. The other -German was dead, and both horses. The -horses could not be moved, so, to disguise them -from sight at a distance, the carcases were -hastily covered with prairie grass.</p> - -<p>Meantime the main body of the enemy -was approaching, but, luckily, at a slow pace. -The scene enacted had been lost to the other -raiders, for a low rise lay between them and -the ground, gently falling to the lake, where -Clifford had ambushed the leaders. The rifle -shots they must have heard, but, as they were -not expecting enemy, they would probably<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_59"></a>[59]</span> -think that their comrades were after game, -for meat for their natives, as was common -practice.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">CLIFFORD STRIKES</div> - -<p>After making certain that the prisoner was -securely bound and concealed, and unable to -move away, Clifford now moved hastily forward; -his intention being to reach the protection -of a small knoll about six hundred -yards nearer to the approaching enemy and -away from the condemning signs of catastrophe. -But before he got there, dust, over the rise, -warned him and his boy to take cover. So -they lay on the open veldt, in the hay grass, -not daring to move to better cover, for, at -any instant now, horsemen, or keen-sighted -Askari, might appear in view. Lying there, -Clifford gave his orders to Saidi, who grinned -still over the success of their first attack. -“Fire like H⸺, Saidi! at Askaris—make -plenty noise—make him think plenty British -here. Make him run!”</p> - -<p>Clifford was confident of the outcome now, -and eager for the fray. By an extraordinary -piece of luck the white opposition had been -evened up: and now he had the advantage -of surprise, and the consequent target for his -deadly rifle.</p> - -<p>Slowly the raiders appeared in view over -the rising ground, and drew on. Together -the Germans scanned the plain ahead, but -beyond a word or two they, apparently, did -not trouble about the non-appearance of their -comrades—they thought, no doubt, that theirs<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_60"></a>[60]</span> -was only a momentary disappearance behind -some low ridge in the distance.</p> - -<p>The raiders sat their horses idly, and watched -the tired cattle being herded on; they swore -at their Askaris and urged them, time without -number, to lash on the many laggards. Apparently -they were weary of their work, and tired -of the trek.</p> - -<p>Clifford and Saidi were waiting breathlessly. -The herd was a bit to the right, but was -going to pass them at about fifty yards. -Steadily they drew on. Again the rifles were -ready in the grass; again Clifford’s terse, -“now!” was whispered, and startling shots -rang out. And then the scene was like a -battle. Shots poured from their hidden haven -in the grass, as fast as they could load and -fire, simply to disguise their strength and -frighten the blacks.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">ROUTING THE RAIDERS</div> - -<p>Clifford had brought down his first man, but -the second white he missed, as his startled -horse plunged and threw the rider. For a -time the German replied vigorously to their -fire, but luckily he couldn’t see through the -grass, and no bullet got home. Suddenly he -rose and scrambled on to one of the horses -and galloped off. Twice Clifford fired and -missed, but at the third shot the German -crumpled up and slid limply from his mount. -Clifford now ran forward, and caught the -remaining horse; Saidi following at his heels. -Shots whistled and cracked around them, but -all were wide of the mark; for the Askari<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_61"></a>[61]</span> -is a poor marksman. Into the blacks rode -Clifford, reckless and wild, driving them to -panic and confusion. Two went down with -his first shots, the rest, five in number, leapt -from the grass and fled in frantic disorder. -One more fell, sprawling, to Clifford’s marksmanship, -and another was winged. But by -that time the remainder had spread and got -farther afield, and Clifford gave up the chase, -afraid to get too far away from Saidi, who -might be in difficulties.</p> - -<p>Returning, Clifford found Saidi broadly -smiling, as was his wont when greatly pleased. -He had accounted for three Askaris. Clifford -praised the boy—though he seldom gave -praise to a native—and told him, now, to -make “plenty big feed” for himself, and -then to sleep—the boy had had no rest since -the day before.</p> - -<p>While Saidi busied himself lighting a fire, -Clifford counted the cost.</p> - -<p>One German was dead, one wounded. Four -Askaris were dead, and three wounded. After -he had gone back and brought the prisoner to -camp, Clifford attended to the wounded. When -that gruesome work was finished, he sought a -vantage-point on a rise, and, from there, sent -three piercing whistles out over the plain.</p> - -<p>He was soon rewarded by the sight of -natives, showing in the grass, about a mile -to the east. They were the three Masai left -behind overnight; and he signalled to them -to come on.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_62"></a>[62]</span></p> - -<p>In a short time the Masai came up.</p> - -<p>Fear was first in their approach, then -astonishment, when they sighted the destruction -of the enemy, and Clifford and Saidi in -complete possession of the cattle. Their -usually passive faces broke into broad smiles, -they gesticulated excitedly in their exclamations -over the extraordinary scene; and, -finally, they came, one by one, before Clifford, -to voice their timid gratitude, and to salaam -profoundly, as vassals to their lord. He was, -in their eyes, indeed a mighty and wonderful -white chief.</p> - -<p>A “chit” was written to G.H.Q. asking -for a mounted patrol to be sent out to conduct -the cattle back to a safe area, and a Masai -runner was dispatched with it to camp—with -instructions, also, to send word to his -tribe to furnish some men to dig graves.</p> - -<p>The remaining Masai counted the cattle. -They numbered close on seven hundred head—a -substantial meat ration for the Europeans -over the border, if the raid had succeeded. -Clifford directed the Masai to drive the cattle -slowly back to the Guaso Nyero River, and -to wait for him at the bend beyond the northern -slopes of Mount Shombole. Before leaving, -they released the hidden mules, and drove -them also to water.</p> - -<p>Three days later an officer and a native -soldier rode into the British camp, dust-covered -and with clothes torn. Dismounting,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_63"></a>[63]</span> -the officer left his mule in the care of the -native and passed on to the encampment of -G.H.Q.</p> - -<p>Down the dry dust-thick lanes of the camp -stalked the well-known figure of the famous -scout—the lean, the brown, the worn bushman, -scarred and tired with exposure and -climate—a thing of the wild world and the -silent places—unassuming, almost shy. But, -on a thousand lips the news flew among the -troops that Clive Clifford was back—and -glad men came from their tents to cheer him -past.</p> - -<p>And Saidi, unsaddling the mules in the horse -lines, hearing the welcome, smiled in content.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_64"></a>[64]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV<br /> -<span class="smaller">THE FIRST ADVANCE</span></h2> - -</div> - -<p>The dusty road through dense tropical thorn-bush -followed the “lie” of the mountain, -and to approach Longido West you came -round the bend from the west, and swung -easterly, to find the camp, an irregular, -partly cleared space in the midst of trees. -The camp, with cunning purpose, was under -cover, for it was within the timber line, which -hung densely in colour and form along, and -all around, the mountain base. Beyond, at no -great distance to the south and west, the bush -terminated, and open yellow veldt stretched -far out to the hill-marked distance where -sheltered the considerable town of Arusha.</p> - -<p>The whole was a wilderness country, neither -bush nor veldt held human creature! All -that lived was of nature’s giving! In the -forest of thorns, and by the mountain-fed -streamlet which gave the camp sparingly of -priceless water, bird, insect, and plant life, -in myriad forms, were habited in abundance. -Beyond the jungle of low-stature trees, the -veldt lay in expressionless vagueness and -silence, with but the slow, dark movement of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_65"></a>[65]</span> -a small number of ostrich and wildebeeste, -and the flight of a ranging vulture, to attract -and hold the wandering eye.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">GERMAN EAST AFRICA THREATENED</div> - -<p>And it was here that our forces were congregating, -over the German border, under -the south-western continuance of Longido -Mountain. We had been days in coming, and -we had come from many places—British, South -African, Indian, and native African—and we -knew by the unwonted stir of traffic that -there was “something on.” A day passed, -two days, and still the gathering grew! -Troops and transport—ox wagons, mule -wagons, and motors—and the hundred-and-one -oddments that accompany a large force, came -into view at the clearing entrance, passed -down the road and camped, and thenceforth -became part of us. In time, it came to be -the evening of the second day, and a great -stir arose in camp.</p> - -<p>Orders were out: we were to commence the -advance to-morrow! Suppressed excitement -was in the air! Down the dust-smothered road, -as I passed to camp, there trooped to water a -hurrying continual line of thirsty, road-tired, -sad-visaged horses, mules, and oxen, accompanied -by gesticulating, chattering, khaki-clad -attendants. The men were discussing -the news, and the prospect ahead, in many -different ways and in different tongues of -English, Dutch, Hindu, and Swahili. It was -nigh to the common hour of peacefulness—that -is, <i>peace</i> as near as it is ever realised in<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_66"></a>[66]</span> -the army—when half-clad, begrimed, talkative -soldiers grub and wash up around the evening -camp fires. But to-night there was no peace. -Sergeants were calling out orders on every -rustle of the wind, fatigue parties were falling-in -here, there, and everywhere. Final preparations -were in full swing, and—what use to -deny it?—fuss and confusion held sway, as if in -devilish glee. Rations, the most vital care of -the army, were discussed and arranged. Kits -to go, 25 lb. per man, including his blanket -and spare boots, and surplus kits to be left -behind were packed and loaded on wagons, -or stored. Sick men, and men not particularly -robust, were sorted out and detailed for garrison, -for commanders realise that only the very -fittest can endure the hardship of a long trek -in Africa. Finally all was arranged and the -sleep of night settled on the camp.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">A FIGHTING COLUMN</div> - -<p>Next day we were off to the south on a -narrow dust-laden track. We were an infantry -column, a column made up of variously dressed -soldiers of different races, a column of various -kind and equipment, eloquent of the brotherhood -of colonies. We streamed out in column -of route, after scouts had preceded us by half -an hour or so. The 129th Baluchis, olive-hued -Indian soldiers in turbans and loose-kneed -trousers, were in advance; then their -maxim battery of gunners and side-burdened, -bridle-led mules. Then came the 29th Punjabis, -another regiment of similar kind, followed -closely by some battalions of South African<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_67"></a>[67]</span> -artillery—a bold array of gun-carriages and -ammunition wagons, each drawn by eight -span of sturdy South-American-bred mules, -and driven by reckless Cape boys mounted on -the line of near mules. Then followed more -infantry, the 25th Royal Fusiliers, of familiar -face and colour, of our own kind, but soiled -and sunburnt with long exposure; the 1st King’s -African Rifles, well-trained natives of stalwart -appearance, khaki-clad as the rest, but with -distinctive dark-blue puttees and light close-fitting -headgear. And so on, and so on, down -the line, except that one might mention the -ammunition column in the rear, a long line of -two-wheeled carts, drawn by two span of -patient, slow-gaited oxen. In the rear, trailing -far behind, came the miscellaneous transport—some -motors, large four-wheeled mule-wagons, -Scotch carts, and water carts, an -assortment of varied, somewhat gipsy-like -kind. The wagons, which were most in -evidence, and which carry from three thousand -to four thousand pounds, were drawn by ten -span of mules, or by sixteen to twenty span of -oxen, and all were ordered and driven by capable -management of men from South Africa, -who had long experience in trekking in their -own country. In all it was probably a column -of a fighting strength of from 4,000 to 5,000 -men, with its necessary large following of -accoutrements.</p> - -<p>When the column reached far out into the -grass-grown, sandy plain—for it was open<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_68"></a>[68]</span> -highland here—one could look back, almost as -far as the eye could distinguish, and see the -course of the column, as the fine line of a -sinuous thread drawn across the blank space -of an incomplete map! To-day, the map was -marked; to-morrow, the thin dust-line would -be gone onward, and the desert veldt would -again lie reposed in vagueness.</p> - -<p>Thus did we leave our harbour of safety to -venture far into the enemy’s country on “the -long trek”; to travel amidst dust, and dryness, -and heat, for many days.</p> - -<p>It was on a Sunday morning, the 5th of -March, 1916, that the advance began. This -column leaving Longido was to operate round -the west of Kilimanjaro and finally converge -on Moschi, the terminal of the Usambara -railway—the only railway in the northern area -of German territory. The column was acting -in conjunction with large forces operating, -also on the border, away to the east of Kilimanjaro: -forces which were largely South -African, and that were opposite the long-standing -enemy line defending Taveta and -barring the main thoroughfare into German -territory. This marked the commencement -of the offensive campaign under General Smuts—an -offensive that time proved was to last -twenty-one months before German East Africa -was to be cleared of the enemy and completely -in our hands.</p> - -<p>However, as I have said, one Sunday morning, -at the beginning of March, found us moving<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_69"></a>[69]</span> -out on the big game, eagerly, and with a great -gladness to be “up and doing.”</p> - -<div class="sidenote">WE ADVANCE FROM THE BORDER</div> - -<p>The column travelled east along the line of -Longido Hill, then struck south across the -flat, sandy plain before us until the shelter -of the Sheep Hills was reached. Here the -column was halted under the northern slopes -of the hills, thus making use of the protection -which they afforded from observation from the -south—for the south held ever the danger of -the enemy. The column had trekked about -eight miles across trackless country, making a -road as they went merely by the commotion -and pressure of wheels and of thousands of -feet of troops and their transport animals. -Marching was unpleasant in the soft, powdered -dust which lay ankle-deep underfoot, and was -kicked in the air in a hanging cloud to choke -both throat and nostrils, and adhere to every -visible part of one’s clothing.</p> - -<p>Under the Sheep Hills we lay in the heat of -the sun, waiting our orders. At 6.30 p.m. the -column moved out on a long night march. A -two hours’ halt was called at midnight, but -otherwise we trekked steadily on all through -the night. At midnight, detachments went off -on our left flank to attack at dawn the enemy -post on Ngasseni Hill. The enemy were engaged, -but the fight was short-lived, and in -due course the hill was occupied by our troops. -The main column encountered no opposition, -though opposition had been expected at the -Engare Naniuki water.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_70"></a>[70]</span></p> - -<p>The column camped at 10.30 the following -morning at water at Engare Naniuki. We had -travelled all night into the south over a level -sandy plain, covering, roughly, twenty miles. -Entrenchments were dug in camp, and the -swamp grass, bordering the water-holes, was -burnt. Camp was unmasked to all eyes, friend -or foe, by a continually rising cloud of fine chalk-like -lava sand. Profusion of troops and transport -were everywhere, and made an animated -picture while moving here and there on quest -of their unending duties.</p> - -<p>I picked up two young hares (Sungura) in -camp, paralysed with fear at finding themselves -surrounded by such overwhelming commotion. -Overhead, many flocks of sand-grouse passed -in the morning and evening; apparently they -haunt these plains in their migrations.</p> - -<p>The following morning we moved out at -8 o’clock and made slow progress during the -march. The column skirted the river-course -of Engare Naniuki and passed through open -country. A long delay was caused getting -the column across the “drift” at Nagasseni -Bridge, when we intercepted the Aruscha—Engare -Nairobi road; the river was, here, -about 25 feet wide and the water swift flowing. -The bridge over the river had been destroyed -before our arrival. The column, in the late -afternoon, camped, when across the Engare -Naniuki, at Nagasseni.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">NAGASSENI EVACUATED</div> - -<p>Nagasseni, which had been hastily evacuated, -was a prominent hill with a small boma and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_71"></a>[71]</span> -fort on the crest commanding the river and -the bridge. At 2.30 in the morning the -camp was stirred afoot, and the column -moved out in the dark an hour later. The -travelling was east, then south-east, through -fairly level country commanded by many cone-shaped -bare kopjes. We are still free of bush -country. To-day we march through forsaken -desert, sparsely grass-grown, and of a surface -nature of metallic lava crustings. A small -party of enemy was engaged, on our left front, -about noon. The enemy fired on our mounted -advance scouts from a low kopje which they -occupied. But our scouts had previously -sighted the enemy, and had sent back word to -the column. Mountain Battery guns, already -trained on the target, opened fire the instant -the enemy showed his hand, and with deadly -shooting put the enemy to flight in no time, -followed by rounds of vicious shrapnel. It -proved to be a mere outpost of enemy reported -at thirty-five strong.</p> - -<p>All are beginning to wonder where we are -to “bump” the enemy. Is there to be no -resistance offered to an advance from this -side of Kilimanjaro? Has an advance here -been thought impossible? Is it completely a -surprise?</p> - -<p>Soon after the short moment of excitement, -above mentioned, Geraragua River was reached, -and camp was pitched on the north bank. -Here our position was entrenched, and camp -for the night prepared.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_72"></a>[72]</span></p> - -<p>Next day we spent in camp while a convoy -returned to Engare Nairobi to assist in bringing -forward rations, which were being delayed -owing to the heavy half-broken tracks. Near -here, at Kakowasch, an enemy camp, hastily -evacuated, was found among the bush of the -Kilimanjaro foothills. This was set fire to and -burned so that the grass huts could not be -reoccupied.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">MOSCHI IN SIGHT</div> - -<p>The following day the column moved out at -noon—our destination said to be Ngombe, -which is across the Aruscha line of the enemy’s -retreat from Moschi, should the eastern forces -attack it from the Taveta side. We travelled -until dark through level country, pimpled with -numerous pigmy hills; breaking road through -the country as we went. About darkening we -entered bush country, which offered splendid -concealment to the enemy, but they did not -put in an appearance. About this time, however, -some of our artillery, who were having -difficulty in getting along on the heavy tracks, -were attacked by the enemy in the open, some -distance in our rear. Forward, with the -column, the rifle-fire was heard, and the boom -of our thirteen-pounders. Detachments were -ordered to retire and reinforce the rear. Our -battalion went back about three miles, but did -not go into action, as the enemy by that time -had been beaten off. Again we moved on in -the darkness, and about 3 a.m. rejoined the -column. It had been uncertain, awkward -marching, the night was very dark, the track<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_73"></a>[73]</span> -broken, and heavy with dust. About the time -we rejoined the column it began to rain. A -halt was called, and we slept in our tracks, -for the remaining three hours, until daylight—then -up and away again. It was bitterly -cold sleeping in the open in the rain, but we -were too dog-tired to care. A number of horses -and mules are now dying by the roadside with -horse sickness and tsetse fly. Mosquitoes -numerous since entering the bush. Marched -about eighteen miles to-day.</p> - -<p><i>Saturday, 11th March.</i>—Just one week -since we left Longido. Marched at 2 p.m., -heading south through the bush, with Kilimanjaro -Mountain on our left, and Meru Mountain -on our right. Towards dusk, on reaching -open country, the column swung easterly and -crossed the plain, pursuing a line parallel with -the southern slopes of Kilimanjaro, but well -away from the mountain. The German town -of Moschi was sighted away to the north-east, -and eager were the eyes that witnessed it, -because there was probably our objective and -the enemy. About dusk, scouts engaged in -a short bout of firing with opposing scouts, -but soon the bush was “all clear.” Marched -until 9 p.m. and camped, before Kilimanjaro, -on River Sanja. Fires were observed between -us and Moschi, and were thought to be those -of the East African Mounted Rifles, who were -reconnoitring nearer in to the mountain base. -Marched about fifteen miles to-day.</p> - -<p>“Stand to” was at 5 o’clock on Sunday<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_74"></a>[74]</span> -morning, but dawn broke undisturbed. A few -shots were fired by our sentries overnight at -prowling scouts. Part of column moved out -at 9 a.m.; and returned in evening, without -having been in action. Our present camp is -on the Aruscha road, about five miles from -Ngombe. The column is now about sixty miles -away from its starting-point at Longido.</p> - -<p>Marched on Monday for Masai Kraal, -hoping there to intercept the enemy’s retreat -from Moschi. Reached Ngombe about 11 a.m. -A number of houses were still inhabited, by -Goanese and Greeks, and they had white flags -erected to protect themselves from attack. -The small river Kware flowed through the -village. Transport and considerable artillery -were left behind here, while the column continued -eastward on the low road or, more -properly, track, to Moschi. The bush is now -becoming more luxuriantly tropical in country -that is apparently well watered. Marched -until 2 a.m. in the dark, through rain, and -over a track narrow and unused. On camping -everyone was so done up that fires were allowed -for warmth, and to make tea. Few of us could -sleep, we were so very wet, and the remainder -of the night was spent cowering over our fires -in poor endeavour to keep some circulation -alive in our numbed bodies. Marched about -fifteen miles to-day.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">THE ENEMY FLEE</div> - -<p>The following day, in the early morning, our -course was changed, and the column marched -direct for Moschi, news having been received<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_75"></a>[75]</span> -that the town had been evacuated and was -occupied by South African forces from the -eastern column. During the march our -column forded four rivers in the course of the -day—the Kikafu, the Weruweru, the Kiladera, -and the Garanga. It is slow, patience-trying -work transporting animals and wagons -through such river-drifts; not one or two -heavily burdened mules, not one or two -wagons, had to be coaxed down steep banks, -and across the ford, and up the opposite bank, -but the endless number of an entire column. -However, in the end the last river was passed, -and we marched into Moschi just after dark, -a weary and footsore column; both man and -beast thoroughly done up. Torrential rain fell -all night, and all were very thankful for the -shelter of the various buildings and barns into -which we were crowded. But even then our -sleep was a broken one, lying on the cold hard -floor, or on the ground, without blanket covering. -For the past three days we have been -without our kits or blankets, only our bare -rations having been transported with us in our -haste onwards.</p> - -<p>Moschi—which is the Swahili for “smoke,” -and which aptly refers to the mists daily hanging -over Kilimanjaro mountain-top—had been -captured without any resistance, though it -had been thought that the enemy would make -a long stand there. It proved an extensive, -well-built town, nestling in the pleasant and -picturesque surroundings of the Kilimanjaro<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_76"></a>[76]</span> -foothills. A mile or so above the new town -were the old fort and residences of Old Moschi. -Coffee and rubber were extensively grown in -the district, and well-developed plantations -abounded in the neighbourhood of the town. -There was a large civil population left in the -town at the time of occupation, principally -natives, Goanese, and Greeks.</p> - -<p>On the 15th, 16th, and 17th March we lay -in Moschi resting, while it daily, and gaily, -rained in torrents. Apparently the rainy -season had begun in this locality.</p> - -<p>On the evening of the 18th, however, all was -again stir and movement, and the column -marched out at dusk on the good <i>made</i> road -that strikes south-east to Muë Hill. We -marched pleasantly all night, for it was dry -overhead and the moon was full. We reached -Muë Hill at 4 a.m. and slept on the roadside -for a brief three hours; clad only in our shirts, -as we had marched out. After our brief spell -of rest the wagons and pack-mules were loaded -up, and we stood ready to march at a moment’s -notice. While waiting, some dead horses were -burnt by the roadside, for the poor animals -continue to die in considerable numbers each -day, and if not burnt soon create, in the heat -of the sun, a vile penetrating smell, repulsive -to all who pass. The column marched out -at 1 p.m. in a southerly direction on the road -to Kahe, which was a railway station some -distance down the Moschi-Tanga line. Our -advance guard engaged the enemy in the thick<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_77"></a>[77]</span> -bush, which bordered either side of the road, -at about 3 p.m. and firing kept up steadily for -about half an hour. From there on we intermittently -engaged the enemy, who were retiring -in good order and taking up fresh -positions about every half-mile.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">ONWARD AGAIN BY NIGHT</div> - -<p>About 2 p.m. aeroplanes from the eastern -forces were sighted coming out from Taveta, -and they flew over our front. They were -trying to locate the enemy’s position ahead, -and the direction of their retirement. All the -afternoon heavy big-gun firing was heard, -seemingly from somewhere west of Kitowo -Mountains. The eastern column is evidently -in action to-day, while we, too, are at last in -touch with the main enemy forces. Camped -for the night at Store—an open space with a -few long-limbed cocoa-nut palms therein, and -enclosed on all sides by thick forest, with the -Defu River immediately on our right. No -blankets to-night, and no fires possible on -account of the proximity of the enemy. Camp -fired on on three occasions overnight, but disturbances -were short-lived. These alarms were -at 2 a.m., 4 a.m., and at daylight.</p> - -<p>The following day we remained in camp. -No rations until noon, for owing to bad river-drifts, -and wagon accidents in the darkness, -the toiling transport had been outpaced, and -left far behind, on the past two days of trekking. -Much rejoicing among the breakfastless men -when rations turned up. Aeroplanes scouting -south of us in forenoon. The enemy, under<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_78"></a>[78]</span> -the command of Kraut, is said to be holding -the entire front on the Ruwu River, between -Kahe Station (extreme west of line) and the -marshes west of Mokinni Mountain (extreme -east of line).</p> - -<div class="sidenote">ATTACKED IN THE DARK</div> - -<p>About 5 p.m. an enemy patrol crept up to -the river where our troops were bathing and -watering their animals, and opened fire on -them. Confusion ensued on the river-bank. -Unarmed bathers beat a precipitous retreat; -mules and horses broke away in all directions. -One of our men, stark naked, rushing back to -our trench line for his arms, was amusingly -confronted by the General and the Colonel of -our battalion, who stopped him to inquire -the cause of the disturbance. The poor fellow -felt much abashed, and, no doubt, wished the -ground would open up and swallow him. -The firing soon ceased, and the excitement -it had caused gradually quietened down. But -peace was doomed to be short-lived, for at -8 a.m. at a suddenly given signal, tremendous -fire swept the camp and startled everyone -to frightful wakefulness. Bugle calls of the -enemy rang out immediately after the first -burst of firing, and thenceforward a deafening, -close-grappling, vicious battle held forth. Time -after time the enemy came on at our trench -line, always to be held up and driven back. -In all they made about twenty charges in -frontal attack, and were once almost into our -line. The engagement raged without pause -for about four hours. The frontal attack,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_79"></a>[79]</span> -which could be rapidly reinforced from the -road from the south, was the heaviest, but -both flanks, at the same time, underwent -considerable pressure, though from a farther -range. German bugles sounded the advance -from time to time, whenever there was a lull -in the firing, as if the moment’s pause had been -to take in breath for a fresh effort; and when -one bugle sounded, the call would be caught -up and repeated all around us in the darkness -of the bush. The enemy fire, fortunately for -us, was bad, for it was mostly too high, also -many bullets were obstructed in their flight -through the dense forest. Otherwise, our -casualties must have been extremely heavy, -for many of the column were without any -trench cover, and lay exposed on the open -ground. As it was our casualty return, eventually, -was only three killed and seventeen -wounded, and a number of horses destroyed, -while, next day, the enemy were reported to -have had fully one hundred casualties.</p> - -<p>Next day—the memorable 21st of March, -1916—in the early morning, our column was -reinforced from the eastern command with -two battalions of South African Infantry, -armoured cars, and some field guns. Orders -had been received to attack Kahe. Our right -was to be on the main road, when we advanced -into battle. It transpired that General Van -Deventer’s mounted brigade had passed -through Moschi last night, and was to advance -on the right flank and attack west and south<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_80"></a>[80]</span> -of Kahe Station, while, at the same time, -the eastern column was to operate along the -line of the Himo River on the left flank.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">HARD FIGHTING AT KAHE</div> - -<p>Our column moved out at 9 a.m. Contact -with the enemy was very soon found thereafter. -At 11 a.m. our artillery opened fire on -the enemy positions, while meantime our -fighting line had formed and advanced slowly -until about 400 to 800 yards off the enemy’s -entrenched and prepared positions in the -bottle-neck formed by the Soko-Nassai River -at its junction with the Defu River. Here -our forces were held, and the battle raged -bitterly for some hours. Some of the enemy -machine-guns were faultlessly handled, and -inflicted heavy casualties. The fight was across -a dead-level open grass space, terminating in -bush at either fighting line. It was in the -bush, on the enemy’s side, that their death-dealing -machine-guns were concealed, and -throughout the day our artillery failed to search -them out. I saw those machine-gun emplacements -later—there were two outstanding ones—and -one proved to be on a raised platform, -eight feet above ground, and skilfully concealed -amongst the trees; the other was in -a dug-out pit, with a fire-directing observation -post in a tall tree standing just behind it. -Where each gun had stood lay a huge stack -of empty cartridge-cases, telling clearly that -their gunners had found a big target. But -where the raised gun had been, blood in all -directions, and torn garments, and dead natives,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_81"></a>[81]</span> -told that not without payment had they held -their post. But I digress. The battle raged -unceasingly until dusk, with all its grime, -and thirst, and heart-aching bloodshed. With -darkness the firing ceased, as if by mutual -consent, and immediately we commenced to -strengthen our hastily dug trenches—dug -during the action with bayonets, knives, hands—anything. -And there they laboured, those -grim, dirt- and blood-bespattered men of the -firing lines while movement became general -on all occupations. Ambulances and doctors -were being sought on all sides, while many -men passed along looking for water, in desperate -need of quenching their thirst. In that bush -forest, after dark, wandering parties, unfamiliar -with the encampment as it lay after battle, -seemed to be looking for every regiment, and -water-cart, and doctor in creation. Late into -the night the labours of readjustment and -of organisation went on, while in the trenches -dog-tired men, one by one, dropped off to -sleep. About midnight peace settled over the -camp, and the remainder of the night passed -without further disturbance. At dawn, patrols -went out and found the enemy had evacuated -the entire front of prepared entrenchments, -and had retired rapidly south under cover of -the bush and the darkness. At the same -time, news came in that General Van Deventer’s -mounted troops had occupied Kahe Station, -and the two commanding kopjes to the south.</p> - -<p>So, for the time being, the storm of arms<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_82"></a>[82]</span> -was over, and the enemy had staved off defeat -by evading a prolonged battle.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">GERMANS USE GUNS FROM BATTLESHIP</div> - -<p>At 9 a.m. our battalion moved forward and -took up a new defensive line, facing the south, -across the Ruwu River. South of the Ruwu -River, on the left flank of the enemy’s position, -lay the ruins of a 4·1 naval gun, laboriously -transported inland from the <i>Koenigsberg</i> battleship, -which, in the early days of the war, our -naval forces had crippled and rendered unseaworthy -after chasing it to its lair in the mouth -of the Rufiji River. About 7 o’clock on the -previous night all had heard a terrific explosion, -and there now lay the wreckage of it. The -gun had been set up completely and with -ingenious labour. Iron girders carried the -heavy plank platform which received the -deck mountings of the gun. Tools, and ironmongery, -and rope, of ship-board nature, lay -about the gun in profusion. In all construction -the equipment and labour were thorough -and workmanlike. The labour of carrying the -material from Kahe Station, and the labour -of erection, must have been colossal, one would -think almost impossible. The observation -post for the gun—a crow’s-nest platform with -a rude ladder access—was in a high thorn -tree towering above all its neighbours; and -during the late battle, from this look-out, -they had been able to direct the fire of the -gun on to both Van Deventer’s column and -our own. Close to the gun were the many -grass huts of an encampment of some weeks’<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_83"></a>[83]</span> -standing, while all about those dwellings were -native stores of mealie-meal, peas and beans, -and calabashes and empty bottles, the leavings -of a settled camp suddenly unsettled.</p> - -<p>The bridges over the Soko-Nassai and the -Ruwu Rivers had been partially destroyed, -and a party of us was selected to repair them, -as soon as camp was established. Much of -the old bridge timber was reclaimed from -the floating ruins, wherever it was found to -have jammed down-stream, and this saved us -much labour, for otherwise make-shift timber -would have had to be cut from the surrounding -trees. Toward the end of the day the reconstruction -was successfully completed. A rail -was then run along either side of those bridges, -and laced with broad banana leaves, so that -transport animals would not see the drop -to the river surface underneath. Grass and -earth were then laid over the planking of the -bridge, and again this was to assist the timid -mules and cattle to face the crossing of an -obstacle that they all instinctively feared.</p> - -<p>On 23rd and 24th March, the column remained -camped at Ruwu River. The day -after the battle some interesting information -was obtained from prisoners and is here noted: -Two companies of the enemy were at Engare -Nairobi at the time of our march from the -border, and were to have held up our advance -on Moschi. They retired on Moschi without -offering any prolonged or determined resistance, -and it transpired that the Major in<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_84"></a>[84]</span> -command was severely reprimanded by the -O.C. there; and took it so much to heart that -he committed suicide the same night.</p> - -<p>Sixteen companies—varying from 150 to -260 rifles per company—retired on Kahe from -Moschi district.</p> - -<p>The night attack on Store on the 20th inst. -was made by three companies, while seven -were held in reserve at Kahe. The enemy -are stated to have had information that our -strength was four infantry battalions. If that -is correct, they were exceedingly courageous, -or very foolish, to attack a force more than -double their averred strength.</p> - -<p>In the action before Kahe the enemy were -said to have employed eight companies. After -the engagement they were reported to have -retired from the Ruwu front on to Lembeni, -which is some twenty miles farther south on -the railway. It is estimated that twenty companies -have congregated at Lembeni, and that -another stand is likely to be made there.</p> - -<p>A doctor in the R.A.M.C. told me our -casualties in the Kahe action were about 200. -German intelligence notes, captured later, -showed that their casualties had been eighteen -Europeans and 146 Askaris. So that, if one -recalls that we were attacking the enemy in -their prepared positions, without cover for -our troops, the result was not discouraging. -Moreover, as I have said, their machine-guns -were most skilfully handled and accounted for -a large percentage of our casualties.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_85"></a>[85]</span></p> - -<div class="sidenote">HEAVY RAINS STOP OPERATIONS</div> - -<p>During the two days in camp at Ruwu, -block-houses were built at the bridge crossing, -for the rains had seriously commenced, and -the line was here to be held until it was feasible -to continue the advance. During the rains it -would be impossible to go on, for the country -would then be impassable for transport and -guns; indeed much of it would be under water. -Moreover, it was necessary to lay the railway -line on from our base at Maktau to link up -with the railway terminus at Moschi. So, -meantime, a battalion of Baluchis were detailed -to hold the line on the Ruwu, while the column -retired to Moschi, which had the advantage -of being on higher and dryer ground, and -was nearer to the base of supplies. On 25th -March the column commenced the return -march, through heavy rain, and on terrible -roads. The rain had coagulated the loose -dust into a sticky holding mud that adhered, -like a weight of lead, to the marching feet. -Late at night, after a very trying march, the -column reached Muë Hill and camped below -the hill in an open space which resembled a -marsh, for it was six inches deep in mud and -water. In this way we lay down and slept as -best we could, and passed a bad night.</p> - -<p>Next day, which was Sunday, we marched at -dawn; again through mud and rain. Many of -our battalion fell out to-day, unable to go on, -and were picked up by the following ambulances. -No evening meal last night, and no -breakfast this morning; and the men are feeling<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_86"></a>[86]</span> -the acute strain that has been put on their -endurance. We reached Moschi about noon, -and the battalion was billeted in deserted -buildings in the town.</p> - -<p>And there our travels for a time ended, for -it transpired that we were fated to lie in Moschi -for a month and a half while it rained incessantly. -The first trek was over, a trek that, -since crossing the frontier, had entailed, for -our column, a march of some 148 miles.</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp52" id="map1" style="max-width: 93.75em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/map1.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption"><span class="smcap">ADVANCE from FRONTIER to MOROGORO</span></p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_87"></a>[87]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V<br /> -<span class="smaller">THE SECOND TREK</span></h2> - -</div> - -<p>On 14th May, 1916, I received orders to take -the entire transport from Kibosho, west of -Moschi, back to Mbuyuni, on the Taveta side, -where the column was rapidly outfitting for -another advance. The rains were over. Our -rest at Moschi was at an end.</p> - -<p>After a few days’ hurried preparation we -marched out from Mbuyuni in the afternoon -of the 18th of May, and continued on the way -all through the night. It was a memorable -march. I happened to be temporarily in -charge of battalion transport, and had to set -out with a batch of “green” mules which had -been allotted to me on the previous day, and -some of which had never had a saddle on. All -through the trek it was incessantly a case of -chasing escaped mules across country, repairing -broken harness, and resaddling the rearing, -frightened, stubborn brutes. I, and my comrades, -spent the whole night on horseback, -rounding up runaways, on the outskirts of the -column, and we had our hands full. During -our labours, four mules were completely lost -in the dark; they had been either overrun<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_88"></a>[88]</span> -and left far behind, or they had been caught -by others. However, we got into camp in -the end with two over our complement, for -others had experienced the same difficulties -as ourselves all along the column; and when in -a tight corner, there is a popular old army -maxim which says that “the Lord helps those -that help themselves.” So we had helped -ourselves, when we found stray animals without -an owner. This first day out was the worst, -in dealing with the transport animals, and -very soon hard work and experience had won -them all over to steady-going patient beasts of -burden.</p> - -<p>The column marched in stages from Mbuyuni -to Taveta, from Taveta to Himo River, and -from Himo River to Kahe; the battle-field of -the 21st of March, and the line at which operations -ceased when the rains overtook us. From -Mbuyuni to Kahe was a trek of forty-two -miles, and it was accomplished in three days, -which was good going for a burdened column -over bad roads.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">OFF DOWN THE PANGANI RIVER</div> - -<p>At Kahe we rested a day and marched at -midnight on 22nd-23rd May. The column -was now trekking through bush and following -the course of the Pangani River, about a -quarter of a mile east of its banks. Thus, we -hold well west of the Usambara Railway, but -are travelling parallel to it. This is a sound -manœuvre, for our position here will always -worry the enemy in front of our forces operating -on, or near, the railway in conjunction with<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_89"></a>[89]</span> -us. It is clearly seen that, should the enemy -on the railway make a stand, they would at -once be threatened with a flank or rear movement -from this side, unless they had sufficient -forces to oppose, and hold, both columns. -The country through which we are passing is -flat, and mostly grown with thorn bush. There -are no hills, excepting the distant ranges far -out on our right and left. The soil here is -sandy, and sometimes lava-strewn. Signs of -game are plentiful. The column marched for -ten hours before, in the forenoon of the following -day, halt was called, and we camped. All -were tired out, for, under any circumstances, -a night march is trying; but we had been -losing sleep for some days now, and were feeling -strained accordingly. Regarding night -marching, it is extraordinary how difficult it -becomes to keep awake, either marching or on -horseback, when monotonously plodding along. -Commonly you will see a man dozing on his -feet, but marching unsteadily on, and if the -man in front of him should have occasion to -halt, the sleeping man behind will walk forcibly -into him, as an unseeing pedestrian may bump -into a lamp-post.</p> - -<p>During the early morning, on to-day’s march, -an astonishing incident occurred. Some of us, -on the transport line, were suddenly startled -by the rush of an animal from the bush, and -were amazed to witness a buck jump clean -across the road, over the top of a double line -of mules. Half a dozen white men and some<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_90"></a>[90]</span> -natives saw this almost unbelievable feat. -The buck landed on the far side of the road -only two yards away from me, and I think -it was a hartebeeste, but in the half-light -I was unable to be quite certain of the -species.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">BREAKING WAY THROUGH BAD BUSH</div> - -<p>The following day, though we started at -3 a.m., the column had only got forward about -eight miles when halt was called in the evening. -Heavy bush had been encountered and was -responsible for our slow progress, for laboriously -a roadway had to be cut before the column -could pass onwards. After camp was established, -working parties went out ahead to continue -hacking a clear way onward. About -midnight we loaded our transport up, and -moved out on the march about 3 a.m. We -trekked all day slowly forward, and did not -camp until after dark. It was a long, hard -day, and everyone is feeling the pinch of -meagre rations and want of sleep. The trail, -being obstructed by heavy bush, continued -bad, until in the afternoon the column emerged -into an open grass-grown valley and made -headway thenceforward smoothly and rapidly. -To-day we have passed well beyond, and outflanked, -Lembeni, on the railway—the point -at which the German forces congregated on -retiring from Kahe. Apparently the enemy -have cleared.</p> - -<p>The following day, the 26th of May, the -column did not trek until 1 p.m., so that all, -thank God, had the opportunity of securing<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_91"></a>[91]</span> -a complete night’s sleep. Much refreshed and -more cheerful was the column that marched -out to-day. Late in the evening we camped -near the Pangani River, about opposite Same -Station, which lay away to the east of us on -the railway. The weather continues rainless, -and very hot.</p> - -<p><i>27th May.</i>—Trekked all day—a hot and -wearisome march. The country we passed -through was level and open, and we pushed -on rapidly. The enemy are, apparently, fleeing -far, for no resistance has been encountered, -and our pace is accordingly as fast as man -and beast can stand. Last night, ten Askaris -and one white were captured in a patrol -encounter.</p> - -<p><i>28th May.</i>—This Sunday morning we were -astir at 3 a.m. and trekked until the late afternoon. -The pace, and the heat, and the lack -of water between camps are beginning to wear -down the endurance of man and animal. The -men were very tired, and cheerless, when they -reached camp to-day; they had been loaded -with equipment and on their feet for thirteen -hours, and were almost past exerting themselves -to cook food and look after their odd -accoutrements. The oxen and mules, too, -were about “all in” ere they reached the end -of to-day’s trek, and the poor brutes, who -must needs endure all in dumb suffering, -get little enough care when the men who look -after them are so very tired out at the end -of such a day as this. Still passing through<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_92"></a>[92]</span> -good game country. One herd of buffalo -and many zebra were seen to-day.</p> - -<p><i>29th May.</i>—At 4 a.m. loaded up transport -ready to march, but did not move off until -two hours later. No rations this morning; -supplies are stuck on the road behind. When -the battalion marched out I received orders -to stay back in camp to try to secure rations. -This was accomplished during the forenoon, -and I then proceeded forward with three food-loaded -carts drawn by poor jaded oxen that -were very far gone—during the drive forward -two completely exhausted oxen had to be -turned loose and a make-shift arranged by -lightening one cart and driving it with a single -span of oxen.</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus3" style="max-width: 62.5em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus3.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption"><span class="smcap">The Neck at “German Bridge”: Engagement 30th May, 1916.</span></p> -</div> - -<div class="sidenote">“GERMAN BRIDGE”</div> - -<p>Meantime the enemy had been shelling the -column ahead with one of their 4·1 naval -guns, in position on the railway. When I -approached the column, they were halted in -extended formation in the bush. Before reaching -them I had to cross an extensive open -sandflat where the carts raised a cloud of dust, -and this caught the enemy’s eye, for suddenly -their gun—which had ceased firing for a space—boomed -forth, and their shells, one by one, -whizzed wickedly in close proximity. Some -fifteen to twenty shells were sent at us before -we had crossed that open space, but none found -the mark, though three of them landed, -straight in the centre of the trek, uncomfortably -close in front. When we got through, it -amused us to think that those innocent old<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_93"></a>[93]</span> -carts had drawn the enemy’s fire—perhaps -we were mistaken for artillery, or the dust-cloud -of moving troops. On joining the -battalion there was general rejoicing at the -sight of rations, and something to eat was -issued forthwith. About sunset the column -drew off to the right, and camped near the -river. To-day, instead of heading south -as usual, we have followed the river-course -almost due east, and have approached close -to the railway and the South Pare Mountains. -The advance troops of our column are to-day -in touch with the enemy. We have been -placed with the reserve force and remain in -readiness close behind. The enemy’s position -is at the entrance of the narrow neck formed -by the meeting of the Pangani River and the -hills at the south end of the Pare Mountains. -Through this narrow fairway goes the Usambara -Railway on its route to Tanga.</p> - -<p>Next day, 30th May, the troops in front, -under General Sheppard, attacked the enemy -positions across the neck, and fighting continued -throughout the day; the 2nd -Rhodesians bearing the brunt of the battle. -Close on darkness the enemy force retired, -and escaped overnight. Casualties were fairly -severe on both sides, for the fighting was -stubborn, and the enemy stuck gamely to -their positions. While our column was thus -attacking, the eastern column—on the railway—had, -some distance back, gone over the -Pare Mountains and closed in on Buiko from<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_94"></a>[94]</span> -the eastern side of the range, thus threatening -to surround the enemy, in the neck, if they -should determine to hold on there.</p> - -<p>Meantime, everyone in reserve, though keenly -disappointed not to be called into the fight, -made the most of a halt that was needed by -all, while starving oxen and mules were fully -watered, and turned loose to graze on the scant -grass and low woody shrubs which grew on -the ill-nourished sandy surface in the somewhat -open bush.</p> - -<p>No fires were permissible, since smoke might -give our position away, and draw artillery -fire or a night attack; and accordingly our -grub consisted of “straight” bully and biscuit, -and water, a fare we were very familiar with -now.</p> - -<p>In the small hours of the following morning -we loaded up the wagons and pack-mules, and -moved out again. But we did not go any -considerable distance before halt was called -on the battle-ground of yesterday. The battalion -to which I belonged was then ordered -ahead, but the transport remained behind, -and I with it, much to my disgust—we were -very keen in those days, and no one liked to -miss the smallest chance of a fight.</p> - -<p>While in camp I looked over the enemy’s -positions of yesterday. The entrenchments -were all newly dug, and a splendid bridge was -half constructed over the Pangani River. -Apparently this was to have become a very -strong position had time been allowed for its<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_95"></a>[95]</span> -completion, and here we realised the wisdom -of our forced marching. General Smuts in -pressing on is giving the enemy little time to -rest, and prepare for our on-coming. We have -marched 145 miles, from Mbuyuni to Buiko, -in the past thirteen days, and, since leaving -Kahe, have had to break trail through uninhabited -country, most of it standing thorn-bush -forest. And, so that one may realise -the extreme length of our day, I have been -particular in recording the hours at which we -started out on those treks. It will be seen -that sometimes we trekked all night, sometimes -we started at midnight, but most often -it was a case of getting up at 2 a.m. or 3 a.m., -or 4 a.m. in the cold, chill night, and away -soon after.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">DELAYED AT BUIKO</div> - -<p>However, our arrival at Buiko next day -marked a pause in operations, for we were -destined to remain in that locality for the -next eight days, while the German railway -was being repaired to this point, and our -insufficient supplies were augmented.</p> - -<p>The enemy had passed on through Buiko -in their flight, and it was unoccupied by either -them or civilian inhabitants. It was a small -station composed of a few stone-built houses -with cactus-fenced compounds, but with an -extensive railway siding, and siding sheds. -After resting here four days, the battalion -crossed the Pangani River, opposite Buiko, -by pontoon bridge, and were then employed -in cutting a road, through dense bush, back<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_96"></a>[96]</span> -north to the almost completed “German -Bridge” at the entrance to “the neck.”</p> - -<p>Where the open valley grass—which stretched -north and south, following the river’s course—joined -with the rugged edge of the bush, we -had pitched camp, and it was here that, short -of rations, a comrade and I ventured to hunt -for meat for the pot.</p> - -<p>It was about 4.30 on the second morning -in camp. I turned over luxuriously in my -blankets, and lay on my back blinking hazily -at the overhead stars. It was within that -dreamless hour before rising time, when the -many disturbances of night on war service -had passed away, and given place to peaceful -rest and deep, delicious comfort and content. -Half consciously I saw that dawn was breaking, -and was aware that overnight I had promised -to go on a surreptitious game hunt at daylight. -What a fool’s promise I thought that now! -and I nestled snugly into the blankets for just -“five minutes more.”</p> - -<p>“Buck! Come on!”</p> - -<p>Rudely I was startled to active wakefulness, -as the words of Lieutenant Gilham broke into -my slumbers in a low voice.</p> - -<p>“Right!” I called back as I sat upright. -It was full daylight. Gilham was pulling his -boots on in his lair under a bush a few yards -away. We grinned at each other and dressed -rapidly, silently; we knew the value of -stealth.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">RATIONS VERY LOW</div> - -<p>Rations were low. Flour, and half a pound<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_97"></a>[97]</span> -of bully beef, had been yesterday’s issue, and -Gilham, a veteran from South Africa, had -come to me with the scheme to clear into the -bush at daylight on the morrow. It was -against orders to shoot, and perhaps against -orders to leave the camp, but, being old hunters, -and hungry, the old instinct got the better of -discipline, and we had agreed to “chance it” -in the morning.</p> - -<p>All ready! Gilham lit a cigarette—that -was in the days when we still had a few—lifted -a service rifle, and started off, with a nod to -me to come on. Signing to my black boy, -Hamisi, I followed out, between the line of -sleeping trek-tired soldiers, who lay along the -west front of our perimeter. Immediately we -were in the dense thorn-bush and wending our -way laboriously, carefully, westward through -the cruel-fanged jungle of countless cactus -needles and grasping hook-thorns. It was the -familiar type of African bush—dry, waterless, -gravel and sand surface, grown with low wide-branching -thorn-trees at fairly open intervals, -filled in with a dense undergrowth of smaller -shrubs, sisal, cactus, and grasses, until only -narrow sand washes, or game paths, remain -open, for short intervals, here and there. -Through this one wends his way, zigzagging, -dodging, stooping, and always on the look-out -to move along the line of least resistance.</p> - -<p>It is rough going, as rough as one will meet -with in many travels. If one who has not -experienced it can think of a hard mountain<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_98"></a>[98]</span> -climb, or of a long march at the end of twenty -miles, or of stiff canoe-going up-river, one -may realise something of the stress of endurance. -For the rest—the scratching, patience-trying -obstacles—if you would picture the -worst of them—the thorn-tree Mgoonga—imagine -half a dozen groups of Stewart tackle -clutching along your arm or leg or helmet, -while another lot threatens to tear your shirt -back to rags. When you are hooked, you -cannot free yourself by forcing forward; you -must draw gingerly back, and extricate each -barb with commendable patience; be impatient, -and you will instantly be hooked up -worse than ever. I will carry memories of -Mgoonga as long as I live. But the bush is not -all dense, and this morning, after an hour’s -travelling, we found more open spaces, along -which one could sometimes look to right or -left or in front, for fifty yards or so. We were -then well out from camp, and, with a cross wind -from the south aiding us, we judged we could -safely fire our rifles without fear of sound of -report reaching back to head-quarters.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">HUNTING FOR FOOD</div> - -<p>In whispers we agreed “all clear,” and the -locks of our rifles clicked, as cartridges were -slipped into place, ready for action, while the -boy dropped fifty yards behind, as we moved -ahead in Indian file, silently, alertly, Gilham -leading. We were hungry, and we meant to -have meat!</p> - -<p>We had not gone more than half a mile, -when suddenly a single buck jumped from<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_99"></a>[99]</span> -behind a bush, close in, and showed for an -instant, in full view, as it bounded behind the -cover of the jungle. One breathless instant, -and it was gone, untouched. There had been -no time to shoot, though we had seen enough -to name it a Lesser Koodoo doe, a delicate, -graceful thing, near to the size of a red deer, -with prominent widespread ears. Eagerly we -had realised the valued prize; keenly we -realised it had vanished—alarmed, and impossible -to follow. In undertone I “swore,” -and Gilham muttered “bad luck,” each in -mind appraising the venison’s goodly proportions, -and hungry friends waiting rations in -camp. Regrets were vain. More keen than -ever, we moved on again, the actual sight of -game whetting our appetite for a kill. But -no! the Fates were unkind. At the end of -two miles of careful stalking we halted, and -had not fired a shot. Spoor in plenty had been -encountered, principally the sharp-pointed -sand-print of Mpala hoofs or the untidy -scraping and burrowing of a family of wart -hog. Many were fresh tracks, and promised -the momentary appearance of game, but the -shadow of the bush held motionless and lifeless, -blank cover from which the treasures we -sought had travelled at first suspicion of -danger’s footfall. Twice we had flashed large -flocks of guinea-fowl, magnificent birds and -king of spoil for shot-gun in Africa; but, -armed with rifles only, we were this day in -mind to be impatient with the flutter and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_100"></a>[100]</span> -disturbance of their cackling, and heavy-winged -rise from cover, when we rudely chanced in -upon their morning breakfasting. And so, as -duty demanded our presence in camp at 9 a.m., -we were halted at the turning-point—empty-handed -and disconsolate. Gilham wasn’t -saying much. He never did when hunting, -but one might judge he was mourning his -luck, as none too gently he rolled an uncouth -cigarette out of notepaper and rough-cut -Boer tobacco. While he smoked, we decided -to circle up-wind, southward to begin with, -and then, when clear of our outbound line, to -strike for camp over fresh ground.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">GERENUK ANTELOPE KILLED</div> - -<p>We were soon off again. The sun was now -up and beginning to make itself felt in the -bush. In an hour it would be stifling hot in -those enclosed surroundings. We had not -gone far—a half-mile or so—and we were -crossing some open bush—abreast in open -order—when a low whistle from Gilham, on -my right, warned me to halt my cautious walk -abruptly. He was not in view, but I caught -the movement of his rifle rising, and almost -instantly the report followed. Fifty yards -ahead a buck jumped from behind a bush and -stood face on, startled; fearful astonishment -and bewilderment apparently making it unable -to run for its life. Hurriedly, too -hurriedly! I fired—and missed to the left, -and off went our quarry bounding through the -bush, we following at a run, not certain the -animal was unscathed, and hoping it might be<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_101"></a>[101]</span> -wounded. But the buck had vanished, and -no sight of blood rewarded an inspection of his -tracks. We had missed. Fools we felt, and -deserved our self-condemnation—too keen! -over-anxious! the certain temperament to -make even the old hand miss “a sure thing.”</p> - -<p>The buck had attracted my notice. During -our fourteen months of patrolling the German-East-British-East -frontier I had not seen its -kind before. It was a buck like an Mpala -antelope, but it stood slightly taller, and was -of extremely delicate build, while the neck -was noticeably very long and very slender; the -horns curved back, as with the buck Mpala, -but were more closely set together than with -that species. Gilham named it a Gerenuk -antelope.</p> - -<p>Again we moved on, and by and by drew -near to the distance from camp where we dare -not fire. Suddenly a shot rang out, again from -Gilham, on my right. I could neither see him -nor his object as the bush was dense, and I -paused anxiously. A moment, and a cheery -shout rang out—“All right, come on!” and I -hurried over to find my partner proudly surveying -a prostrate Gerenuk doe, for, strangely -enough, it was again this novel species which -Gilham had spotted and dropped with a bullet -high in the shoulder. It was a beautiful beast, -though a doe, killed by fate of the pot-hunter’s -need, slender and delightfully delicate of build, -with a coat of close, short, glossy hair, dark -chocolate brown, above the central sides,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_102"></a>[102]</span> -where a distinctive horizontal line clearly -separated the darker upper parts from those a -shade or two lighter below. Many were our -ejaculations of joy over our prize! Here was -meat at last!—and venison!—fit reward for -our strenuous stalk. Proudly now we would -steal in upon our camp comrades and revel in -a goodly feed all round. For one day at least -bully beef would not plague our palate.</p> - -<p>Without loss of time we cut the meat up, -loaded the black boy, and, carrying the remainder -ourselves, we set off for camp, deciding -we were now too close in to shoot further.</p> - -<p>Nearing camp, half an hour later, we put up -at intervals, singly, numbers of dainty dodging -Dik Dik, the smallest African antelope, which -lairs and jumps off like a British hare, and -which in size it barely exceeds. These little -animals are usually sought with shot-guns, -and give very tricky shooting. They are a -much-prized table delicacy.</p> - -<p>Our entrance to camp was a masterpiece of -secret movement, and bush-cutting parade -found us on duty outwardly severe but inwardly -rejoicing over our morning’s outing. -And so had we a glimpse of sport in this -famous big-game land while we passed on trek, -keen on the trail of even bigger game.</p> - -<p>On 9th June, the entire column—which -had crossed the river from Buiko and had -assembled at our bush camp on the previous -day—again marched out on trek, and continued -down the Pangani. In the late afternoon,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_103"></a>[103]</span> -the advanced troops at the head of the -column engaged rear-guards of the enemy, -and heavy fighting for a time ensued before the -native village of Mkalamo. Our position then -was about opposite Wilhelmstal and Mombo, -two of the principal stations of the Usambara -Railway.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">ENEMY LEAVING USAMBARA RAILWAY</div> - -<p>On entering Mkalamo, next day, it was -found to be a village composed of a few -wrecked trading stores—burnt down by the -enemy—and a large number of grass-built -native Shambas. Here an important light -trolley-line, from Mombo, crossed the Pangani -and passed through the village, and on into the -bush where it continues a course to Handeni, -which is a town, some thirty miles farther -south, on the broad trade road from the mouth -of the Pangani into the interior. The fighting -took place last evening a short distance north -of the village, and the rear-guard action of the -enemy was, apparently, solely to hold us off -until darkness, for it is reported now that -over 2,000 enemy were here yesterday, and -that they evacuated the village and neighbourhood -overnight. Rumours are persistent -that the remainder of the Usambara line -down to Tanga is almost completely clear of -German forces, and that all enemy are now -making for the Central Railway. The length -of railway line from Mombo out to Tanga on -the east coast is about seventy-five miles. It -should greatly assist the forwarding of supplies -if the port of Tanga and this section of railway<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_104"></a>[104]</span> -fell into our hands; if it is not already -seriously destroyed.</p> - -<p>But it soon became evident that General -Smuts intended to continue the pursuit south, -toward the Central Railway, without waiting -for the complete clearing of the remainder of -the line.</p> - -<p>We remained two days at Mkalamo, holding -on while operations on the railway in this -neighbourhood progressed. On 12th June -we marched some six miles forward to the -angle of the Pangani River where it changes -direction and flows east to the sea, and there -we again halted for a couple of days. Rations -have been short for the past two weeks, and -transport difficulties are evidently increasing -behind. Moreover, most of the bridges on -the railway from Moschi have been destroyed, -or partly destroyed, by the enemy, so that -there is delay in making use of any railway -line, until hasty repairs are completed.</p> - -<p>Regarding food we are limited at present to -flour, and bully beef, and tea, and sugar, no -bacon, no jam, no biscuit—and bare flour, -without bacon fat or lard to cook it with, is -almost a “straw” ration, for flour and water -dropped into a dry canteen lid doesn’t make -anything digestible or palatable. But if one -is hungry it is eaten, and really the men were -wonderfully patient over their “dough-nuts,” -and such scanty grub, even though they grew -lean—for you know the popular old song beginning: -“What’s the use of worrying?”<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_105"></a>[105]</span> -which is the never-dying axiom of our ever -plucky soldiers. Being much in need of meat -now, I went out hunting in the afternoon of -both days, but without success. Many tracks -of rhinoceros were crossed in this neighbourhood, -but small game is apparently very -scarce. Some day, in hunting in proximity -to the enemy, I expect the game will be Germans -instead of buck, but it’s worth that risk of -adventure, and if Germans are about in the -bush, it’s as well to know it.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">WE BRANCH OFF FROM PANGANI RIVER</div> - -<p><i>15th June.</i>—Réveillé at 4 a.m., and soon -after the column marched out. This morning -we bid good-bye to the Pangani River, after -having followed its course for 135 miles, and -headed south in the direction of the far-off -Central Railway, and Morogoro—to reach -which a great area of wilderness bush would -have to be penetrated. Marched to-day over -unmade dust-deep tracks, and camped in the -bush at night after advancing some sixteen -miles. Rations dwindling; flour, tea, and -sugar only issued to-day.</p> - -<p>The following day we continued onward, -and, after completing some twelve miles, -camped at 8 p.m., at Gitu, north-west of the -considerable station of Handeni, on to which -the eastern column was advancing. Rations -to-day, ½ lb. bully beef, coffee, and biscuits.</p> - -<p>Next day the column continued onward -into the south, and during the day emerged -from wilderness bush into a country of plentiful -small-croft cultivation—the first country of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_106"></a>[106]</span> -this kind that we have encountered since -leaving Moschi. Native huts and mealie -patches were on all sides amongst the bush, -which is now fairly open and of fertile growth.</p> - -<p>Toward noon we crossed the broad, well-made -caravan road which comes from the -coast station of Pangani, and runs far west -into the interior. Soon after crossing this -road we climbed into low hill country, and -camped at Ssangeni, a native village west -of Handeni—some houses of which were now -visible, about eight miles distant, at the foot -of an isolated, prominent, cone-shaped kopje. -To-day’s meagre rations, sugar (no tea), 1 lb. -meat, and biscuits.</p> - -<p><i>Sunday, 18th June.</i>—Lay all day in position -occupied last night. South African -troops went out from the column in the early -morning under operation orders. Recent information -as to the enemy’s strength estimates -that the force opposed to us, in the Handeni -neighbourhood, is twelve companies of infantry, -two 4·1 naval guns, and fourteen maxim -machine-guns.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">HANDENI NEIGHBOURHOOD</div> - -<p><i>19th June.</i>—In camp. To-day the news -reached us that Handeni had been occupied -by General Sheppard’s column, and also that -the South Africans operating from our column -had engaged the enemy near here yesterday, -and inflicted some casualties, but the enemy -would not long stand their ground, and fought -their familiar bush-covering retreating fight. -To-day, from the native habitations, some<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_107"></a>[107]</span> -food was collected by our hungry troops. My -orderly obtained some welcome delicacies in -the following strange manner: he bartered an -old shirt for two chickens, an under-vest for -seven eggs, and an old football sweater -for six vegetable-marrows. Money held little -inducement to the natives here; they were in -great need of clothing, and it was apparel -they sought. They say that sugar and clothes -are finished in the German camps.</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp53" id="illus4" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus4.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption"><span class="smcap">German Paper Rupee.</span></p> -</div> - -<p>Crude, locally minted brass coins and -printed paper one-rupee notes were plentiful -among the natives, here and elsewhere. -Those they have received from the Germans -since war began in payment for food collected, -by native consent or by force. If the war -failed for the German this very doubtful -currency would be unredeemable and valueless, -and so the ignorant natives were warned -that it was poor, if not totally false, this wealth -which they held.</p> - -<p>On the 20th and 21st of June we remained -at Ssangeni. In the evening of the 20th -advanced South African troops engaged the -enemy ahead, and heavy conflict ensued, -and lasted some two or three hours. Later, -one of the returned wounded reported that -the South African casualties were 15 killed -and 75 wounded, and that the enemy had had -some 200 casualties, but none of this information -was authentic, though it was sufficient -to show that a sharp encounter had taken -place.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_108"></a>[108]</span></p> - -<p>Next day, the 22nd of June, the column -accomplished a long march forward, trekking -on from 9 a.m. until 8 p.m., with but one -hour halt, and camped, at the end of the day, -at the native village of Kangata some twenty-five -miles ahead of our last camp. It was a -long, hot, trying day, and particularly wearisome -when sheer exhaustion laid hold of the -heavily burdened soldiers toward the evening -of the day. On the march, the column passed -through Ssonjo about noon, having travelled -easterly across country on a native bush-path -until the Handeni-Ssonjo road had been intersected. -Our course thenceforth had been due -south. The retreating enemy, falling back from -Handeni, held up our advance by occasional -sharp short-lived rear-guard actions—bursts of -firing on the advance guard—and the country, -which was bush-grown on either side of the -narrow native road, was well suited to their -hide, and strike, and run away manœuvres.</p> - -<p>A number of oxen and horses were left dead -on the roadside to-day. No “feed” ration is -available for issue to transport animals at -present, and this unfortunate state of affairs is -telling heavily on the live-stock. Our own -rations have been somewhat better during the -last three days.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">WE MARCH ON LUKIGURA RIVER</div> - -<p>On the 23rd of June rations of meat and -flour were cooked before the column marched -at 4 a.m. We were in for a long trek, and were -told to expect a fight at the end of it. Our -objective was the bridge-head, and the hills<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_109"></a>[109]</span> -commanding it, where the bush-road crossed -the Lukigura River, and where the enemy had -dug in. The eastern column was, in conjunction, -to advance down the narrow native -road, which runs through the bush from -Handeni to Makindu at the northern end of -the populated Nguru Mountains, while we -were to circle away wide to the west and -attack at the heart of the hill position. All -night we trekked, excepting for one halt at -midnight. It was slow, monotonous work for -this column, which must have stretched to a -sinuous length of miles; for it was necessary, -on account of the density of bush and jungle -growth, to feel the way along in single file, on -a narrow native bush-path over which a native -guide was leading us to our goal. Moving, -then halting till the kink in the line straightened -out, then on again, so dragged the night -hours wearily on; and progress was made, -though we travelled as sheep in a strange defile, -led we knew not where. After midnight bitter -cold set in and chilled our scanty shirt-clad -bodies, and when dawn broke the red-hot sun -was for once welcomed in Africa, as it warmed -us to life again. But still, when the day -dawned, the trekking column held onwards, -and all through the day we marched, until -4.30 p.m.—and then to battle. I have never -seen men more utterly tired and woebegone -than our men at the time of their approach on -Lukigura River. They had been marching -twenty-four and a half hours, kit-laden and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_110"></a>[110]</span> -without substantial food; and yet, when they -went into battle all fatigue was forgotten, or -they were careless of further physical trial; -and they fought like madmen—and as heroes.</p> - -<p>It was for us a short, hot engagement, and -the height and the village of Kwa-Direma were -stormed at the point of the bayonet, and in -our hands ere the fall of dusk. It transpired -that the enemy had confined all their attention -to the bush-road from Handeni, down which -the eastern column was advancing, and they -were taken completely by surprise when our -attack pounced on them from the west, and -inflicted complete defeat and heavy loss. -Meantime the eastern column attacked below, -on the road in the bush, east of Kwa-Direma, -and carried the bridge-head over the Lukigura -River, inflicting further punishment on the -beaten enemy.</p> - -<p>During the early part of the night our new -positions on the hill-crest were shelled by the -enemy’s naval guns. A few casualties resulted, -but most of the shells were high and -went over the hill to burst in the vacant bush -below.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">AN AFTER-BATTLE PAUSE</div> - -<p>The next few days were spent in camp at -Kwa-Direma. Here I made some sketches -of the position and neighbourhood for G.H.Q., -and spent some time in the bush, much of -which was breast-high in tangled undergrowth -and rank grass, but which nevertheless showed -traces of where the enemy had scattered and -hidden at the time of our attack.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_111"></a>[111]</span></p> - -<p>Here, one morning, my porters captured a -small antelope—Harvey’s Duiker, ♀—even at -the door of my native-erected grass hut, where -it had rushed in fear and bewilderment on -being disturbed near by.</p> - -<p>Here, also, I had some practice with a 1-in. -Krupp gun which we had captured in the late -engagement. Though completely out of date, -it was a vicious and accurate little piece, and, -as long as the captured ammunition lasts, it -has been decided to have it added for service -to the Machine-gun Section of which I am in -charge. A day later, too, I took part in some -tests of armoured-car armour plate, at the -request of Major Sir John Willoughby. The -armour plate withstood the blow of the Krupp -gun shell at 100 yards range, and was merely -dented. We then tested the German made-up -iron-plate shield on the Krupp gun. Our -service rifle failed to penetrate the plate, but -a ·245 high-velocity sporting rifle of Sir John -Willoughby’s put a neat hole clean through -it.</p> - -<p><i>Sunday, 2nd July.</i>—And for once, as it -rarely is on service, it has been a quiet day, -and like a Christian “day of rest.” And being -a Sunday it recalls our homes, from which we -are longing very much for news. Mails reach -us at very long intervals of a month or more, -and for weeks we have been hoping for home -news. The column has lain a week at Kwa-Direma, -and we are said to be waiting here -until supplies come up in quantity. We have<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_112"></a>[112]</span> -had no full ration since getting here, and we -are all feeling the effect of the shortage. From -two natives, whom I persuaded two days ago -to go to their home in the hills to forage for -food for me, I have to-day purchased, in exchange -for old clothing, some mealie-meal -flour and thirteen fowls. Great the rejoicing, -for this is, in these bad days, a windfall for -myself and some of the men. One hen, a -white-plumaged one, I kept a few days, and -by then it had proved so friendly and tame -that I decided to spare its life and keep it as -a pet. Thereafter, here and on trek, it caused -much amusement and comment. It lived with -me a few months before it was stolen by someone -whose hunger overcame his scruples, and -each day, whether on trek or in camp, it -laid me an egg. Very peculiarly this hen -learned to come to roost wherever I lay, and, -more curious still, it was never at a loss as to -my whereabouts when released among the -feet of hurrying soldiers in strange surroundings -at the end of a trek. On trek she was -generally tied down in a horse-bucket, and -carried by my native servant.</p> - -<p>The next few days passed uneventfully, -except that much time was given over, on my -part, to increasing the proficiency of the -machine-gunners and to the training of mules, -both old and new, to complete familiarity with -their saddles and loads. Once during those -days the camp was sniped at night, but in the -darkness no damage was done.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_113"></a>[113]</span></p> - -<p>On 7th July we loaded up and marched -out south-west, on the bush-road over the -Lukigura River. In the afternoon Makindu, -which had already been occupied by General -Sheppard’s column, was reached, and there -we camped. Immediately on camping we -were shelled by the enemy for about an hour, -but little damage was done.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">260 MILES FROM THE FRONTIER</div> - -<p>Makindu, this village on the Msiha River, -which we had reached and where we were -destined to stay for a time, is still some -seventy-five miles north of our objective—Morogoro, -and the Central Railway. But a -great trek has been accomplished, for we are -now 260 miles from Mbuyuni, our starting-point -on the frontier. Needless to say this -exceedingly long line of communication has -made the transport of supplies a tremendous -undertaking, therefore it was not unreasonable -that, for the next month, we lay at -Makindu while transport difficulties were -mastered and clearly organised, and the shorter -line, in from Tanga by rail, was opened and -brought to our assistance.</p> - -<p>This long pause, too, was beneficial to the -overstrained troops. Speaking of our own -battalion, they were very far through in -physique at the time we reached Makindu, -and in numerical strength they were, all told, -under 200 strong. True, they were “the -flower of the flock” in endurance, this remnant -of the 1,200 which sailed from England, but -even they were withered, and withering, with<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_114"></a>[114]</span> -long fight, on short commons, against unhealthy -soul-exhausting climate. Nine officers -remain who have gone through all since the -beginning, including the doctor, the O.C., -and the second-in-command.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">UNDER PROLONGED SHELL-FIRE</div> - -<p>At Makindu we had our first prolonged -experience of shell-fire, for throughout our -occupation of this place we were continually -shelled by the enemy’s naval guns, and sometimes -suffered considerable loss. The enemy’s -fire was throughout particularly accurate, as -if the camp were directly under observation -from some undetected look-out in the high -ranges of the Nguru Mountains, on our south-west—which, -at some points, had an extreme -elevation of some 6,100 feet. It was here -seen that the native Africans were very nervous -and fearful of shell-fire, and their raw instincts -with difficulty stood the strain. It is a trying -thing for anyone to wait idly inactive for a -shell’s vicious death-dealing on-coming, but it -is much more trying to the half-wild senses -of a black man than to a white man. We had -no artillery with a range sufficient to reach the -enemy’s naval guns, so that the only retaliation -on our part was accomplished by dropping -bombs from our aeroplanes. As soon as the -enemy ceased firing, invariably our ’planes -went up, and, when over the German positions—cunningly -though they were concealed in the -bush—bombs were dropped on every likely -target. It became amusing when the intention -of the opposite foe became clear, this persistent<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_115"></a>[115]</span> -blow for blow “strafe” between the enemy -guns and our aircraft.</p> - -<p>At Makindu two delayed mails were received, -and great was the rejoicing; even though -some of the letters were six months old.</p> - -<p>It was at Makindu, too, that, one evening, -my pet white hen, which had been with me -since the fight at Lukigura River, killed a -small snake 15 inches long. This I had never -seen done before by domestic fowl. She was -very timid and wary in pecking at the snake -until very sure she had stricken it to death, -whereafter, with much exertion, she swallowed -it whole as if it were a worm. She is indeed -a funny old hen. Still she never gets lost -amongst all the confusion of camp life, and each -night she comes home, often after roaming -far, to roost within a yard or two of me.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">RECONNAISSANCE ON ENEMY’S FLANK</div> - -<p>While at Makindu I did some reconnaissance -and sketching for G.H.Q., and saw much of -the bush country beyond the camp. The -following notes of one such reconnaissance -will serve to give an idea of its nature and the -type of country.</p> - -<div class="blockquote"> - -<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Reconnaissance Patrol</span></p> - -<p class="center"><span class="smcap">With View to Flanking Enemy’s Position in Ruhungu Hills</span></p> - -<p>Patrol undertaken to investigate country -on east flank out to the track crossing from -Massimbani to Legero, which is well behind -the German position. Patrol left Makindu at<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_116"></a>[116]</span> -4 a.m. on the 1st of August, 1916, and returned -to Makindu 3 p.m. on the 3rd of August, 1916. -Our southerly direction, from point of setting -out, was held on a bearing of 160 degrees -throughout the advance to Massimbani track. -The distance, reckoned by time, from starting-point -to Massimbani track is about twelve -miles. The distance to intermediate grass track -crossing from Mssente to Ruhungu is about -4¼ miles. The first seven miles is good and -fast-going for vehicle road through open forest—little -forest cutting should be necessary, -and no grading. The last five miles of the total -distance passes through some parts of less -open forest, and some timber felling will be -necessary in places. In this locality a few -narrow “islands” of dense bush—lying east -and west—will be encountered, but these -may always be evaded by keeping round their -western extremities. No rivers, or soft river-beds -were encountered; throughout the surface -soil is dry and hard. Where the Mssente -track was crossed, the bearing on to the -Ruhungu position was 260 degrees. Said bearing -follows down an open grass valley which is -unobstructed by forest and in full view of -Ruhungu hills. The mountain range appeared -close at the Mssente track, at most some two -to four miles distant, but the range viewed -from the Massimbani track appeared far off, -and as if viewed from a lower level. By eye -I judged the distance here to be eight to ten -miles, and later, sketching out the course of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_117"></a>[117]</span> -the patrol, I find it to be 8½ miles. The impression -given me, and this is borne out, was -that in avoiding Massimbani village we were -very wide of the hills and the enemy’s line of -communication to his positions in front. In -regard to this I might state that, after crossing -over the Mssente track about a mile, a bearing -of 5 degrees to 7 degrees would draw in more -closely to the mountain foothills, and might -have better results. From the Massimbani -track a long, fairly low range of hills was -apparent in the distance, tailing off south -beyond the prominent peak of Kanga (elevation -3,280 ft.). The Mssente track was a mere -path in the grass and had no appearance of -being much in use. The broad Massimbani -track is apparently one of long standing, and -had appearance of being much used by the -enemy, though no movement was observed -while for some hours we lay hidden on watch. -There was no telephone line on the Massimbani -track.</p> - -<p>On the return journey the patrol held slightly -easterly until, after going three miles, the -Lukigura River was struck. The course of the -river was then followed for about 2½ miles. -Kwa-Beku, where shown on field map, was -not observed. Kraals were seen on the opposite -side of a lagoon on the river, after we had -followed its course for about a mile, and signs -of grazing cattle were noticed near here, but -the huts across the river appeared uninhabited. -The route by the course of the Lukigura River<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_118"></a>[118]</span> -is obstructed by dense patches of jungle, and -the going is bad. If it were necessary to -approach the river for purpose of securing -water for animals and troops, I would state -that a short distance north of the Massimbani -track, say two miles, the open forest runs out -to the river-bank and access to water could -here be easily accomplished.</p> - -</div> - -<p>Such was a manner of unravelling the -mystery of the important and unknown details -of the map in this ever new and strange country.</p> - -<p><i>5th August, 1916</i>.—At 3.30 a.m. the camp -was astir—to-day we were to march, to-day -we were again to begin active operations. -After great overnight operations, this morning -we trekked out from Makindu on the road -back to Kwa-Direma, for it transpired that we -were, as Divisional Reserve, to take part in -an encircling right flank movement through -the Nguru Mountains between the main block -of hills and the Kanga-Kilindi range, on the -eastern side of which the enemy stronghold -sheltered. Arriving at Kwa-Direma about -midday, we found a large concentration of -forces there composing General Hannyngton’s -Brigade and part of the Divisional Reserve. -Previous to our arrival mounted South African -troops under General Brits had already left to -commence the advance through the hills.</p> - -<p>The following two days I have no wish to -recall, but that they are necessary to this -narrative. We began, and laboured incessantly -to advance our column of troops and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_119"></a>[119]</span> -transport into hill country that proved to be -quite impassable, for any but unburdened -man or beast, owing to its succession of deep -valley bottoms and steep untracked hills. But -nevertheless we laboured on for two days, on -such strenuous work as cutting roads through -forest, laying corduroy logging over swamp -marsh, and, at the hills, inspanning two to -three complete teams of mules or oxen to -drag each wagon with excessive effort up the -stupendous grades. At the end of the second -day, after we had in all covered some eight to -ten miles, the project was abandoned, and we -received orders to return the way we had come.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">OPERATIONS AGAINST RUHUNGU FAIL</div> - -<p>Next day we again reached Kwa-Direma, -and none were sorry to be out of those hills. -Meantime the operations that had been going -on, on both flanks, with a view to attacking or -surrounding the Ruhungu positions unaccountably -failed to get to grips with the enemy, who, -probably in fear of a rear attack, succeeded in -secretly evacuating their stronghold while -the mounted troops were working their way -through the hills. This was to all a big disappointment, -but the extremely awkward nature -of the country proved again the enemy’s disconcerting -ally and for him his saving. This -operation was, perhaps, meant to be our -greatest effort to force a decision—at least so -did we, at the time, regard it.</p> - -<p>On the 9th of August we were back in -Makindu, and on the 10th we proceeded along -the road toward the Ruhungu position. Soon<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_120"></a>[120]</span> -we found the road completely blocked by great -trees that had been felled across it by the -enemy, and in some places the road was also -mined. Slowly we went forward throughout -the day, investigating the level bush and the -hill-sides as we went. Once about fifty enemy -were sighted, and lost again in the bush. Once -a mounted patrol of Sepoys fell in with the -enemy, who surprised them when dismounted, -and they lost their horses, and then their -heads, while an advancing line of our men raked -the bush with rifle-fire beyond them. Next -day those horses, six of them, were found running -free in the bush, and were caught and -returned to their owners, one or two of them -suffering from bullet wounds.</p> - -<p>In the late afternoon we built a boma (bush -fence) protection and camped for the night on -the road; and again moved forward in the -morning into the Ruhungu position. Progress -was slow while the position, which was a very -strong one in its systematic completeness, was -carefully investigated, covered by machine-guns -trained on the hill-slopes ahead. The -position was completely occupied at 11 a.m. -and all reported clear.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">RUHUNGU STRONGHOLD</div> - -<p>Going over the position I was astonished at -the work that had been spent on it. For -instance, on the low ground at the position -defending the road, a wide carpet of sharply -pointed, dangerous-looking, hand-cut pegs had -been staked out in front of the whole trench -line to protect it, apparently, from cavalry<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_121"></a>[121]</span> -charge. This original and ingenious “entanglement” -could not have been constructed -without many, many days of labour by many -men. Then, too, in the hills above, regular -subterranean caves, and pits, had been excavated -everywhere for protection from the -attacks of our aeroplanes, some of them even -hewn out of the solid rock by the industry of -many hands.</p> - -<p>In the afternoon we passed beyond Ruhungu, -and in the evening camped by a small rivulet -in low country east of the high Kanga mountain-top. -Many small bush-log culverts on the -road have here been destroyed by the enemy -as they retired, and this has left the road impassable -for transport until repairs are made.</p> - -<p>The following day we advanced until the -Russongo River was reached, and then camped, -while working parties busily constructed a new -bridge over the river.</p> - -<p>At early dawn of the next day, which was -Sunday the 13th of August, we trekked again -onward through tree-covered hill country, and -made a long march in a south-westerly direction, -camping in the afternoon at Kinjumbi -on the Luăle Liwăle River. The timber bridges -destroyed, over streamlets and rivers, coursing -numerously from the mountain watersheds, -are now everywhere being roughly and speedily -repaired, and the forces are hurrying forward -in the wake of the escaping enemy. General -Smuts is himself here to-day and hustling -things forward.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_122"></a>[122]</span></p> - -<p>Worked all through the night repairing -the bridge over the deep-banked Luăle Liwăle -River; then off over the river in the morning -and onward, until again held up at Turiani, -before which flows the large River Mwúhe, -where two bridges had been blown up to block -our passage. We have now descended into -low, unhealthy marsh country, where the -atmosphere is close and damp, and fly-ridden. -For the remainder of the day and the next -two days, swarms of us, like busy ants, laboured -to and fro on the construction of the large -timber-buttressed bridge being thrown across -the high-banked river. At the end of the -latter day fever laid hold of me, and left me -with just enough energy doggedly to carry on. -Toward evening, too, of the latter day the work -drew to a close, and we marched out forthwith, -at 7 p.m., to camp about midnight at Kwe -d’Hombo.</p> - -<p>Meantime the forces ahead had pushed on -south to reach, on the 17th of August, the -Wami River, there, at the bridge-head at the -village of Dakawa, to enter into an all-day -battle with the strongly entrenched enemy. -The struggle was a fierce one, and again -the enemy suffered severe punishment, but, -nevertheless, they stubbornly defended their -positions, on the opposite banks of the river, -until night-fall, then to escape under cover of -the screening darkness.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">MOROGORO OCCUPIED</div> - -<p>On the 19th, 20th, and 21st of August, I was -employed going over and making plans of the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_123"></a>[123]</span> -Dakawa position, though still continuing a -victim of vile malaria. This, however, was the -last work I did for seven days, for I went hopelessly -down with fever next day, and went -into field hospital, while the force continued on, -and on 26th August occupied Morogoro, and -cut the Central Railway without meeting -further enemy resistance.</p> - -<p>I left ambulance quarters, and Dakawa, -on the 28th of August, and reached Morogoro -in the forenoon two days later, there to find -that the battalion was still fifteen miles ahead. -So, not to be done, I borrowed a mule and a -broken-down German saddle, and caught up -the column before night-fall, at Killundi, east -of Morogoro on the low road south of the -Central Railway. Over the country I had -passed in coming from Dakawa great stretches -of the bush grass had been burnt down by the -enemy in their retirement, presumably so that -there would not be even dry poor grazing for -our already lean-flanked horses and cattle.</p> - -<p>So we had reached Morogoro—which was a -large, picturesque town below the northern -foothills of the Ulugúru Mountains, with -colonial well-built houses and bungalows, and -palm-shaded, sand-carpeted streets, wherein -moved native pedestrians in bright-coloured -cotton garments swathed loosely over their -shoulders and bodies. And here I must halt; -though the columns halted not, and relentlessly -continued their pursuit of the fleeing enemy. -To reach Morogoro we had trekked some 355<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_124"></a>[124]</span> -miles, and in attaining our objective had taken -part in the fall of the entire Central Railway; -for in conjunction with our operation, and -almost simultaneously, naval forces captured -the port of Bagomayo, near Dar-es-Salaam; -General Van Deventer’s column cut the railway -at Kilossa and Mpapua—over 100 miles west -of Morogoro—while the Belgian forces, from -the Congo, threatened and eventually captured -Tabora—the interior terminal of the railway.</p> - -<p>A few days later news came through that -Dar-es-Salaam, the capital and chief port of -the Protectorate, had surrendered to naval -forces on the 4th of September.</p> - -<p>After wrecking all the important steel-constructed -bridges, and all the rolling stock on the -railway, the enemy had now fled to the south -into the only country that remained free to -them—even though it was, beyond the Ulugúru -Mountains, a country of bush and swamp and -wilderness to which they fled, and entailed their -final irrevocable departure from the last of -their civilised settlements and trade-centres, -and from their all-important railway.</p> - -<p>Indeed, at this stage, it must have been -patent to most of them that, in suffering this -disaster, their country was lost; prolong the -final capitulation though they may.</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp37" id="map2" style="max-width: 43.75em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/map2.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">MOROGORO—RUFIJI RIVER</p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_125"></a>[125]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI<br /> -<span class="smaller">THE THIRD STAGE</span></h2> - -</div> - -<p>This was to be an advance less in ultimate -distance than those previously undertaken, and -accomplished, but proved to be through -country much more attractive, in its early -stages, yet, in its latter stages, more unhealthy -and trying than anything we had so far experienced. -The operations began in the very -mountainous and beautiful Ulugúru mountains, -south of Morogoro, mountains which were -cultivated and habited by large numbers of -natives, and which were rich in crop and -pasturage and water, and truly the first fair -country we had seen—if we except the Moschi -area—that was not barren of almost everything -but bush and wilderness. But thereafter, -when we cleared those mountains, we bade -good-bye to the last of fair scene and entered, -for the remainder of the trek, the low-lying, -unhealthy bush country that stretches like a -great unruffled carpet right away to the banks -of the Rufiji River, and beyond.</p> - -<p>Our object was, first, to follow the enemy, -and, secondly, to clear all the country north of -the Rufiji River of enemy. To reach the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_126"></a>[126]</span> -Rufiji River from Morogoro was a trek in all -of some 130 miles, the first fifty-five miles of -which was through mountainous country. To -clear the hills our column was to proceed -through them on the east of the highest range; -some ten miles east of us the eastern column -was to work along parallel south-going tracks; -while a column composed entirely of South -African troops, in co-operation, was to work -down the country, west of the mountains, to -close ultimately on the Fort of Kissaki.</p> - -<p>Setting out on the 31st of August we trekked -to begin with on a good “made” road, cut -through the hills, and free of impossible grades, -and encountered no opposition until we had -got beyond Matombo village and mission -station.</p> - -<p>Meantime, in continuing without halt to -follow the enemy from Morogoro, we were -adding to supply difficulties, and saw little -prospect of full rations in the near future. At -Killundi, one day’s march from Morogoro, no -rations reached us, and the battalion in their -need had a much-wasted trek-ox killed, and -issued as emergency ration. Otherwise we -had to make shift as best we could, and were -hard put to it to assuage our hunger. A few -small things were gathered from the neighbourhood, -such as sugar-cane stalks to chew at, -a few pawpaws (Papáyu), and wild tomatoes, a -chicken or two; and one great find, a grey-marked -goat from the hills.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">IN THE ULUGÚRU MOUNTAINS</div> - -<p>On the 3rd of September we encamped at<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_127"></a>[127]</span> -Ruwu River, an enemy encampment far down -in a beautiful valley into which we had descended -on a zigzag, well-engineered road cut -out of the steep hill-sides in pre-war days at the -expense of gigantic labour. The existence of -this road through the hills was unknown to -our command until the enemy retired by it -from Morogoro. Fine tropical trees, on either -side of the road, were tall and dark-foliaged -and majestic, and the undergrowth luxuriant -and flower-lit, while through the trees, every -now and then, one glimpsed the fair valley and -hills below and beyond. Everyone was filled -with admiration for the beauties of the scenes -we encountered on the final day of our march -to Ruwu River. It was indeed very beautiful -country!</p> - -<p>The wide-spanned bridge over the river had -been destroyed, but though the river was wide -at this season it was shallow and not more than -waist-deep, and the troops and the transport -laboriously and successfully forded the firm -gravel and sand-bedded stream. The Germans -had had stores at Ruwu River, and here, in -their hasty flight—for the enemy had apparently -just abandoned the place—large quantities -of shells and grenades were found dumped -in the river-bed.</p> - -<p>On the 4th of September, leaving all transport -behind, we marched out at 6.30 a.m., and -again trekked through lovely hill country, -especially in the early part of the day, when the -road ran along parallel to the river, we being<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_128"></a>[128]</span> -then on a regular mountain pass cut in the -precipitous hill-sides that fell abruptly to the -broad, bank-forested river, flowing below us -on our right. The Pass was a cutting that -worked a way round to open country, penetrating, -in its course, the great base of a mountain -spur that abutted on to the very river-bank. -In two or three places large boulders -and rocks had been blown out of the upper -side of the Pass from perpendicular rock cliffs, -and effectually blocked the way for all but -nimble-footed men and mules. It was, though -strange and very beautiful, a dangerous bit -of road, and difficult, and would give our -engineers and pioneers a very considerable -task to make it again passable for transport. -However, bad though the road was, the marvel -was that the enemy had not completely blocked -the way, for a few sticks of dynamite, well -placed, could so easily have accomplished that -purpose. It proved perhaps again that the -enemy was hard pressed and flustered. -During the morning the Pass was negotiated, -and we proceeded along a good road. After -the column had passed Matombo village, -the battalion received orders to occupy Magali -Ridge—a high, long-backed hill off the road, -on the left flank. This entailed a long five-mile -drag up steep hill-sides, on narrow native -footpaths, that were awkwardly rutted and -bouldered. However, by 4 p.m. we had -laboured to the crest, and took up position -for the night there.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_129"></a>[129]</span></p> - -<div class="sidenote">WARFARE IN THE HILLS</div> - -<p>Meantime, the Gold Coast Regiment—who -had been landed at Dar-es-Salaam to augment -our forces on this trek—engaged the enemy -on the right of the road in open, tree-clear hill -country. This engagement, which continued -on through the next two days, was like open -guerilla warfare, and different therefore from -all previous encounters which had taken place -in thick bush country. We, from our high -position—as all was quiet on this flank except -for one short encounter—watched the fortunes -of battle of our friends across the valley. -Artillery was in action on both sides, and the -white puffs of smoke told us plainly where the -flying shells burst, and where the opposing -forces were located, and holding on.</p> - -<p>Gallantly the Gold Coast blacks, led by -British officers, fought the blacks of the -country, and steadily they dislodged them -out of bush-patches, and from behind rocks, -to drive them, bit by bit, up the many hill-slopes -toward the Kihunsa ridge; behind which -lay the track to Mgata, and their second -road of retreat to the south through Tulo or -Kissaki.</p> - -<p>Meantime, on our flank, as I have said, all -was quiet except for one short “dust-up.” -This was when, on the evening of the 5th, on -a prominent knoll on the opposite ridge, south -of Magali ridge, we discovered and destroyed, -with mountain battery and machine-gun fire, -the enemy’s observation post which had been -directing the fire of their naval guns—long-range<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_130"></a>[130]</span> -guns—which shelled from positions some -six miles in rear, and which our artillery could -not attempt to reach, for at best ours were -light pieces which had been got through the -part-blocked pass at Ruwu River. As soon -as this vital observation post was wiped out, -the enemy’s guns ceased fire, for there, far -forward of the guns, had hidden the eyes that -saw all—eyes that scanned the whole countryside, -and the road, with the intentness of a -bird of prey—and there had been the cunning -hand on the wires of the telephone that told -off every pulse-beat of the booming guns.</p> - -<p>On the evening of the 6th the troops on -the right flank had worked far out and up to -the main ridge crest—some had even gone over -it, in pursuit of fleeing enemy—and, on the -approach of dusk, the firing died down altogether -and fighting ceased. Natives whom I -questioned, who live in these hills, and have -not deserted their homes in fear of approaching -conflict, state that the force on the right flank -is not the big one, but that the larger force is -on the main road between here and Bukubuku, -in which village, where a road joins in from -the west, there is a large camp of enemy. On -the last day of the fight the natives, who are -extraordinarily quick in flashing news from -hut to hut amongst their tribes, stated that all -the enemy were preparing to leave the hills, -and that they would go toward Kissaki Fort.</p> - -<p>The 7th of September was a quiet day, and -was spent in camp on the sun-hot ridge, while<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_131"></a>[131]</span> -we grew impatient at our inactivity. Though -all was quiet on our front, we could hear the -battle call of big guns firing to the east, where -the eastern column was “somewhere” in -action.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">ENEMY HARD-PRESSED</div> - -<p><i>8th September, 1916.</i>—Camp afoot at 4 a.m., -and the battalion trekked at daylight; at -that time commencing the descent from -Magali ridge to the road, where we joined in -with the column. About 10 a.m. we passed -through Bukubuku, then deserted, but where -large, carefully built barrack hutments extensively -lined the road. This place had the -aspect of being a large military centre, probably -a training station for natives recruited -from these populated hills. Late in the day, -as we advanced steadily, the road began to -wind down out of the hills until, to the south, -there appeared before us a great level stretch -of haze-softened bush country, reaching out -as far as eye could follow. From noon onward, -to-day, small but troublesome enemy -rear-guards harassed our advance, until finally, -in the evening, we drew in on larger forces -and entered into a short engagement at Mwuha -River and village. It promised, at one time, -to be a hot set-to, but mountain-battery guns -subjected the village to very heavy fire, and, -when extended infantry proceeded to attack, -the village was entered without noteworthy -incident, for the enemy were found to be again -retiring, and, as it was getting dark, we could -not follow on their heels.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_132"></a>[132]</span></p> - -<p>During the trek to-day quantities of abandoned -stores were passed from time to time -upon the road, principally field-gun ammunition, -wagons, dump-barrows, and pioneering -implements. We continue close on the heels -of the enemy, and, fearful of standing up to our -superior forces, they are apparently being -hustled uncomfortably to get away each night, -and must now be a much-harassed force.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">ABANDONED BUILDINGS AND STORES</div> - -<p>Early next morning, when we moved out, -we had not trekked far before we came on the -enemy’s rear-guard camp of last night, where -some fires were yet kindled and freshly killed -meat lay about, quantities having been but -partly used. Shortly after midday, the -column marched into Tulo, which the enemy -had hastily cleared from. Here, as at Bukubuku, -were countless grass huts which had -been built and used as barracks. The interiors -of all were in disorder—rude furnishings, such -as grass-laced couches and chairs, were upturned -everywhere; mealie-meal flour, peas, -beans, and paper lay scattered on the ground, -or lay about in half-empty sacks against the -walls, and all gave one the impression of a -looted and abandoned camp, from which the -occupants had fled in uncontrolled haste. An -hour or two ago the enemy had been here—now -they were fleeing through the bush and -down the road leading south-west in the -direction of Kissaki. Here, as at Ruwu, large -quantities of shells and other ammunition were -found dumped in the Mwuha River and abandoned.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_133"></a>[133]</span> -Besides the barrack huts already -mentioned, there were the many native kraals -of the permanent village of Tulo, and a number -of these still contained their peaceful occupants. -The following day, as I had lost a considerable -number of machine-gun carriers, I recruited, -for temporary service, twenty-one sturdy, -ragged-garbed, almost naked natives from -amongst the inhabitants of the village. These -natives appeared friendly and willing to serve -under us, although we had been but a few -hours their masters. In their own dull way I -suppose they reasoned that we were a great -and powerful people, since we were driving -their late masters before us.</p> - -<p>The next four days we remained in reserve -at Tulo, while the column went ahead to -Nkessa’s village, some thirteen miles farther -on, on the Dunthumi River, and entered on -an extensive encounter on a wide front.</p> - -<p>My diary entries at this time again record -great food shortage, and declare that the men -have not enough food to keep together their -sorely tried, used-up systems. And this was -really so. Daily the ambulances took in -men we lost on the march from sickness and -<i>exhaustion</i>.</p> - -<p>Being short of food at Tulo, and as the conditions -did not improve, on the third and -fourth day I went out to hunt for the pot, and, -as we were now on the border of a large German -game reserve, I found game plentiful, and shot -five antelope, three Reedbuck, and two Mpala.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_134"></a>[134]</span> -Other officers did likewise, and soon there was -no shortage of buck meat in the camp.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">PROLONGED FIGHT AT NKESSA’S</div> - -<p>Meantime, during the 10th, 11th, 12th, and -13th of September, a stern struggle had been -raging at Nkessa’s, and not until the evening -of the 13th were the enemy dislodged from -their many positions and driven back some -three miles south, and the hills and the river -and the village occupied.</p> - -<p>The day following I went forward to make -a sketch survey of the battle-field, which, -owing to the extensiveness of the operations, -I did not complete until four and a half days -later; throughout that time labouring from -daylight to dusk to get over the many positions. -While I was at Nkessa’s enemy movements -were fairly quiet, excepting for some night -shooting on 15th, 16th, and 18th. The enemy -were entrenched across the Mgeta River about -three and a half miles south of Nkessa’s, and -some of our forces were dug-in opposite them. -For, for reasons beyond my knowledge, operations, -and the active chase, had, for the time -being, come to an end.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">A WELL-CHOSEN POSITION</div> - -<p>I give here a description of the country held -by the enemy before Nkessa’s village:</p> - -<p>To advance to the encounter Nkessa’s was -approached from the east on the Tulo-Kissaki -road—a narrow, inferior road through the low -country, and running westerly parallel with -the southern foothills of the Ulugúru mountains, -which were always visible well off to<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_135"></a>[135]</span> -our right. The road throughout was over -level grade, and passed through country of -thorn-bush growth and tall, dense grass.</p> - -<p>Approaching Nkessa’s, the foothills draw in -to close proximity of the village, and, about -2,100 yards north of the road, a prominent -bush-covered hill, and a long ridge trending -west, rise to an elevation of about 300 feet -from dense, bush-grown bases, and command -the flat country south and east; over which -our forces advanced to attack.</p> - -<p>South of the prominent hill, between the -hill base and the road, the low ground formation -is irregular, with small nullas and mounds -and the whole surface a dense tangle of bush -growth and tall grass.</p> - -<p>Adjoining this, and continuing to the eastern -edge of the village, there is a square-planned -rubber plantation, while above the northern -boundary of it there is a low spur, on which is -situated a group of planters’ buildings. From -those buildings, which are clearly in view from -the low ground, a narrow road runs down, -between the village boundary and the plantation, -to the main road.</p> - -<p>Across the main road, opposite the rubber -plantation and the low ground below the hills, -there is a large level mealie-field, clear of crop, -which parallels the road for 1,000 yards or so -from the village, and which has a narrow -width at the village, but which opens out -fan-wise to a depth of 550 yards at its easterly -extremity, where it is bordered by a cotton-field<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_136"></a>[136]</span> -in crop. East of the cotton-field, where some -of our forces dug in, the country is level, with -a surface of tall rank grass and a few bushes.</p> - -<p>Bordering the south margin of the mealie-field, -and continuing some distance east, is a -belt of dark jungle composed of tall trees and -tangled bush.</p> - -<p>Immediately south of the tree belt, at the -south-west margin, there is a village of native -kraals hidden by some fields of tall-stalked -mealies and by the tall, rank grass common -to the low ground of the Dunthumi River, which -in the rains is flooded.</p> - -<p>Farther south of this there are no decided -landmarks, the country running out like prairie, -low and level, and grown with tall, rank grass, -and screening the Dunthumi River, which swings -on to an easterly course after it has left the -hills and passed through Nkessa’s village and -beyond about a mile.</p> - -<p>Turning now from the south aspect to the -west aspect:</p> - -<p>Immediately west of the prominent hill above -the road, there runs north and south, across -a deep parallel valley, a long ridge which, at -its southern extremity, descends abruptly to -the Dunthumi River, and from the ridge the -course of the river is clearly seen below, in the -immediate foreground, and running out south -through its margins of tall grass. Across the -river, and just north of the village, the country<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_137"></a>[137]</span> -rises brokenly into low, bush-covered foothills. -Those foothills were unoccupied by enemy. -From the ridge Nkessa’s village is not seen, -it being under cover of the large mango trees, -and palms, and thick forest, amidst which it -is situated. However, it is a large village of -native huts, with a broad white road running -through the centre of it which is shaded with -avenues of great densely leafed mango trees, -and lined on either side with native dwellings, -grass-thatched, mud-walled, sand-floored.</p> - -<p>From the village, a track runs out south -along the west bank of the Dunthumi River. -The track is narrow but level, and passes -through low country with the usual perplexing -growth of tall, rank grass and thorn bush.</p> - -<p>One may gather, from this detailed description, -the immense natural difficulties of the -country, and how hard it may be to turn an -enemy out of such positions. Here the only -area of open space—viz. the mealie-field—down -which an attacking force might push -rapidly forward, was ruthlessly exposed to -enemy fire from no less than three sides—from -the village, from the low bush north of the -road, and from the dark tree-belt south of the -road. It meant death to too many to attempt -it. The alternative attack was to advance -slowly, through the all-screening, hampering -bush, upon those concealed entrenchments in -the grass; never sure, even when the enemy -are located by their fire, of the exact position<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_138"></a>[138]</span> -of the foe; never sure, at any time, what the -next twenty yards of jungle hold in store for -you. You are blind from the time you enter -the rank jungle growth until you reach the -enemy’s position, and you are lucky if at the -end you have sighted an enemy at all, though -you have been blazing away at one another -at some fifty yards. And picture the difficulty -of keeping in touch with your own people in -such jungle, which, the moment you enter it, -swallows you up in its depth of undergrowth -as if you were a rabbit taking cover in a field -of ripe corn. Not only is it difficult—I might -say impossible, sometimes—to know where -your own people are, who are advancing on -the right or left, but also it is difficult to know -the movements of the enemy. One moment -they may be in front of you; a few moments -more, and they may be gone, undetected—all -but a few bluffing rifles—to a new position, or -may be working round on an open flank.</p> - -<p>Truly the enemy chooses his positions well, -and it is the country, not he, well though he -fights, that robs us again and again of decisive -battle. Their positions are, with rare exceptions, -chosen where they and their movements -cannot be seen, and thus their strength, -at the many points of battle, may be either a -handful of men or a dozen companies. Moreover, -under cover of the bush, their lines are -flexible to any change, while always, in the rear, -they have sure and safe lines of retreat by -which they can escape in the bush, in a dozen<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_139"></a>[139]</span> -directions, to meet again at a given point -when their flight is over. Moreover, the enemy -is always on his own soil, whereas each new -battle-front is, in all its details, for us an -unmapped riddle of which eye and mind have -no clear conception.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">BUSH FOILS DECISIVE COMBAT</div> - -<p>I have often been asked, “What were the -difficulties of the campaign?”—for the uninitiated -have sensed that there were difficulties—and -I have answered, “Our greatest -enemy to overcome was the ever-blinding, -ever-foiling bush and jungle growth; our -second enemy was the intensely hot climate, -and subsequent disease; the third enemy was -the shortage of adequate rations; and the -fourth enemy was the grim tenacity of a -stubborn and worthy foe.” There you have -the four essential conditions that made the -East African Campaign a long one. But, -undoubtedly, the main condition, the one that -can never be overlooked, is that, in a territory -176,210 square miles larger than Germany—which -is seven-eighths larger than the whole -area of the German Empire—the country was -a vast, unbounded wilderness of bush, with -ready cover to conceal all the armies of the -world. Into that blank area were placed our -tiny pawns of armies, to move and counter-move, -with the touch of blind men, in pursuit -of peoples who were, in their knowledge of -the country, like wild animals in their native -haunts.</p> - -<p>And there for a time we must leave this<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_140"></a>[140]</span> -subject, and the enemy—free like wild animals -in the bush—while I return to our camp life -at Tulo.</p> - -<p>On the 19th of September, leaving Nkessa’s, -I rejoined my unit at Tulo, and remained there -ten days, while the operations of our column -stood more or less at a standstill. Apparently -our chase from Morogoro had entailed even -greater difficulties than usual to our line of -communication, and a breathing space had -become imperative to attend to road repairs -in the hills behind, and to augment our failing -supplies.</p> - -<p>Ultimately it transpired that our onward-pressing -advance had come to a prolonged -halt that was to confine us to this unhealthy -area for three and a half wearisome months, -while rains fell incessantly in the Ulugúru hills -in the rear and blocked the road to almost -all traffic. Hence we were constrained to -wait in patience, holding on to our front in this -low country, and subsisting on such rations -as could be got through to us, while here too -it rained, though in lesser quantity than in -the hills. When we came down out of the -hills into the low country our battalion camped -for nineteen days at Tulo, before moving on, -on the 30th of September, to take over permanent -positions at Old and New Kissaki on -the Mgeta River.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">DELAYED AT TULO</div> - -<p>A few records of Tulo may be interesting, -and I will endeavour to follow our existence -there for a few days.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_141"></a>[141]</span></p> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Tulo</span>, <i>21st Sept., 1916</i>.</p> - -<p>Heavy rains overnight and all to-day, causing -much discomfort, since we have no shelter or -clothing against such weather. We have been -camping under mere sun-shelters, hastily -erected, and protection only from the heat. -We had been caught unprepared, and as penalty -slept the night in soaking blankets on the -sodden ground, while to-day has passed without -chance to dry anything, not even our wet -blankets. To-morrow, the ambulance will attend -more fever cases than ordinarily.</p> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Tulo</span>, <i>22nd Sept</i>.</p> - -<p>Rain has ceased, and everyone in camp is -to-day employed rectifying their shelters against -a recurrence of downpour by rigging, over their -camp spaces, steep-pitched roofs, framed with -green poles cut from the bush, and thatched -with compact layers of long grass gathered -from the surrounding country by our porters. -In the afternoon I rode out south-west across -the river to look for game, and secured three -Reedbuck in open, dried-out swamp country.</p> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Tulo</span>, <i>23rd Sept</i>.</p> - -<p>Remained in camp all day. Overnight heavy -firing was heard in the direction of Nkessa’s -village. To-day a crocodile was shot in the -Mwuha River: it measured 13 feet 1 inch.</p> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Tulo</span>, <i>25th Sept</i>.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">KILLING GAME FOR HUNGRY PORTERS</div> - -<p>Nothing new to-day. No fresh news of -“our” war, or of the European war, of which<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_142"></a>[142]</span> -we get but scraps of information at intervals. -Spent the morning on battery drills and on -machine-gun instruction. In this country, -where sickness is so rife, it is impossible to keep -an efficient gun team together for any length -of time. Old hands slip away each week, and -men to replace them have endlessly to be -instructed in the intricate mechanism of the -gun whenever halt gives opportunity. In the -afternoon out for a hunt, to keep fit, and to -look for buck meat, chiefly for porter food, -as their ration issue is very short. But to-day -I searched without success, principally through -having a local native with me who purposely, -or foolishly, took me over what proved to be -very poor game country. Nearing camp on -the way home, I shot four of those delicious -table birds—the wild guinea-fowl, which I -have—wanting a shot gun—taken to shooting -with our ·303 service rifle; which indeed now -serves for the killing of anything from a -partridge upwards.</p> - -<p>Next day, still wanting meat, I rode out -on horseback and, with the assistance of my -porter followers, brought in the meat of four -Reedbuck. On the 28th of September I again -went out with the same purpose, and secured -three Waterbuck, animals about the size of -a mule and of the same dark mouse colour. -In this way were the natives tided over some -bad ration days.</p> - -<p>Before passing on, I must mention a strange -incident that occurred last night. A great<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_143"></a>[143]</span> -pack of hyenas, like a pack of timber wolves, -came from the bush to the east, right through -the centre of the camp, snarling and howling -and fighting at our very hut doors as they -passed, arousing the whole camp to wakefulness -and astonishment with their gruesome, -fiendish uproar. The camp, in pitch darkness, -was a regular wolf garden for some minutes, -ere the last of the howling, quarrelling mob -had gone through, and passed beyond the -camp. Why such a thing occurred no one -could tell next morning; the impression given -was that the whole band was chasing something, -a wounded buck perhaps, or one or two -outcasts of their own kind; but, in any case, -they were so intent on their business that -they knew no fear of our presence, for they -went through our camp, in their wild excitement, -just as if they were going down a main -city street, though in ordinary temperament -such surroundings would have filled them -with the greatest suspicion and fear.</p> - -<p>So much for the small events of bush life -while we lay at Tulo.</p> - -<p>After the usual reorganising, preparatory to -abandon a camp we had been settled in for -some days, we left Tulo in the early morning -of 30th September, and trekked forward -to Nkessa’s, <i>en route</i> for Kissaki; there to -take over the positions captured some time -ago by South African forces, in conjunction -with operations on this side.</p> - -<p>Meantime we had learned that we were to<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_144"></a>[144]</span> -remain on in the country, a reduced but a -hard-dying Imperial unit, though in the latter -months of this year a great many exhausted -white troops were sent back to better climes—I -believe, in all, some 12,000, the larger number -of whom, excepting a battalion of the Loyal -North Lanes, and the 2nd Rhodesians, had -landed in the country in the early part of the -year. These troops were replaced, in time, -by newly raised battalions of King’s African -Rifles, and by the Nigerian Brigade—all of -them native regiments, accustomed to the hot -African climate.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">ADVANCE TO RUFIJI POSTPONED</div> - -<p>The advance to the Rufiji had by this time -been definitely postponed, and our command -was now concerned in holding the Mgeta -River front at all vital points, and in patrolling, -continuously and alertly, the intervening country -from post to post. Our battalion was -ordered to Kissaki Fort, and to Camp A—the -old Arab fort of Kissaki, and about two -miles south of the present fort. In taking up -these positions we were on the extreme right -of the Mgeta front, a front that lay virtually -east and west along the course of the river. -Our camp at Old Kissaki was within a square -compound, walled in by an ancient hedge of -impenetrable, needle-leaved cactus. Within -the compound were some old stone foundations -of long-demolished buildings, and in the centre -an old unused stone-built well. Outside the -compound a road ran in from the east to the -very entrance of the square, to turn off abruptly<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_145"></a>[145]</span> -there and head north on the way to New -Kissaki Fort. The road outside the compound, -in both directions, was bordered with solid-looking -avenues of large, thick-leaved mango -trees, while underneath those trees, on the -road from the east, nestled the shaded grass -huts of a score or two of peaceful natives. In -the neighbourhood of the fort some land was -cultivated, but where not, it grew dense and -rank, with tall grass and low bush. In the -big rains of February—April the entire country -adjacent to the river is two or three feet under -water, say the natives; and they tell of how -they then go to live in the hills. This locality -had a considerable native population, and -their huts and mealie patches are to be found -at intervals near to the banks of the river along -its course.</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp53" id="illus5" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus5.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Native Kraal.</span></p> -</div> - -<div class="sidenote">PEACEFUL NATIVES AT KISSAKI</div> - -<p>These native habitations have with them a -certain human homeliness, a certain attractiveness, -that is altogether foreign. Picture -a group of tall, full-bodied trees with thick -foliage, dark and green, from which issues -the pensive, melodious “co-coo-oo” of African -doves toward the eve of a throbbing, sun-scorched -day, when the air is cooling, and you -are fortunate to have leisure to notice that -the scenes and the sounds are pleasant and -restful. These are the mango tree (Mwembe)—trees -of blessed shade against the hot sun, -and trees that, when the leaves are ready to -fall, in October or November, give a rich -harvest of delicious mango fruit.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_146"></a>[146]</span></p> - -<p>It is here, close to their sheltering shade, -that the native huts are grouped; huts with -a great proportion of steep roof of weather-darkened -grass, and with low squat walls of -baked reddish mud. Here naked children -play around the tree-trunk roots, in the shade, -while old shrivelled-up women, or labouring -wives, together under the hut-eaves, croon -their soft Swahili folk-songs, in tune with the -doves in the trees, in tune, indeed, with all -that is African. About the habitations are -some patches of cultivation—a not extensive -irregular area of ground cleared, without choice -of fair angles or straight lines, in any old haphazard -way, wherever the bush could most -easily be cleared, or where the soil held most -richness and moisture. Here and there in the -clearing stands a great wintry looking, sparsely -leaved wild fig tree (Mcuyu), a landmark to -the eyes of all. On those clearings are grown -millet (Mtama) and maize (Mahindi), which -is the harvest of the native—his bread, as it -were, his chief staple food. Part of the crop -is standing, twice the height of man, tall, -clustering reed-canes with long ribbon leaves -and bending, burdened seed-heads, caught -into motion, and rustling in the light, undulating -wind. Here, moreover, from the neighbouring -bush, numerous doves fly, swift-winged and -grey, to feed on the ground among the stems; -to search out the broken heads that have -fallen, or to perch, with some effort to balance, -on swinging plant top to plunder the ripened<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_147"></a>[147]</span> -head. Part of the crop has been cut as need -required, and, in the open, the stem-strewn -stubble lies, straw brown, and level, and tinder -dry.</p> - -<p>Such is the common aspect of the native -habitations in this neighbourhood.</p> - -<p>Within the compound we built our huts of -shelter—for owing to transport difficulties we -never had tents—and strongly entrenched the -perimeter against attack. Water we carry -from the river, which is about half a mile south -down a dusty track between bushes; and since -this same water is essential to existence here, -vigilant pickets guard the river drift, day and -night.</p> - -<p>Here at Camp A, as the old fort was designated, -we had a period of heavy duties, busily -fortifying the position, while rations became -shorter and shorter.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">UNDER-FED, UNDERCLOTHED SOLDIERS</div> - -<p>On 3rd October I record:</p> - -<p>Another day of fatigues. Every one more -overstrained than usual, for we are now in low -country that is excessively hot and relaxing. -It is difficult to keep up good spirits all round. -Unfortunately there is no ration improvement, -and no word of fresh kit coming, of which all are -much in need. Notice shirtless men in camp, -with badly sun-burned backs, and men on the -march without socks. One sees, in the brave -suffering of men, many things in these days -to make one’s heart sore and sad. To-day -General Sheppard, the man who has won the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_148"></a>[148]</span> -popularity of our men, and of all, visiting the -camp from Dakawa, paraded the remnant of -our force and spoke encouragingly of the -ration shortage, thanking all for enduring the -hardships so cheerfully, and promising at least -some improvement in four days’ time.</p> - -<p>At this time, too, most men are without even -the solace of tobacco, having run completely -out of it, though some tackle the crude native -stuff, and make of it cigarettes by rolling it -in paper or in dry mealie-cob sheaths. At -best this was a hot, rank smoke which some -could put up with, but which many had to -forgo, after a brave trial or two.</p> - -<p>But light may glint through even the worst -of shadows, and a day or two later some -parcels reached camp from home, and priceless -were they to their lucky recipients. I wish -those at home who had sent those gifts could -have witnessed, even though it might have -brought tears to their eyes, those ragged men -rejoicing over the gifts that meant so much -to them in their need, and were not to be -bought for their weight in gold. Yet, after -all, they were but little things; such as a -pair of socks, some packets of Gold Flake -cigarettes, a cake of soap, a candle or two, -and a few tins of sardines or biscuits. Nothing -at all when you are living in civilisation or near -to it, but everything to men heart-hungry and -half-starved of any luxury for nigh on two -years.</p> - -<p>Yes! we had our “mean” days in Africa,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_149"></a>[149]</span> -plenty of them. We had had them before, -we were having them here, and we are certain -to experience them again, but in all our roughing -it those dark days at Kissaki cannot be -surpassed, and they were the days that found -our spirits at the lowest ebb.</p> - -<p>During our stay in the Kissaki area, I will -ramble over some of the incidents of daily life -as they chanced to come along. If they -should appear more personal than ought to -be, in my endeavour to be accurate, through -describing incidents that were known directly -to me, I would like you to forget the “I” and -imagine any one of us in that character, for, -besides the regular routine of patrols, all were -employed on a variety of similar duties, arduous -and otherwise, and found our little -pleasures, one in the manner of the other, -when the opportunity chanced our way.</p> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Kissaki</span>, <i>5th Oct.</i></p> - -<p>Carrying out orders received, to make sketch -survey of Mgeta River and neighbourhood -east of drift. Found the river-banks of tall -grass in many places impenetrable, and therefore, -to secure the principal bearings and -distances, I, and the two men who were with -me, took to the water and waded, waist-deep, -some two miles down the centre of the broad -stream. It was, since the water was warm, -not such an unpleasant proceeding as it would -appear, so long as no enemy, or crocodiles, -put in an appearance; and neither were seen.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_150"></a>[150]</span> -On the spits of sand on the river-side, where -they occasionally appeared, were many fresh -footprints of elephant and hippopotamus, telling -that they habit this district in numbers, -and haunt the river at night and at daybreak.</p> - -<p>To-day fifteen German Askaris passed wide -of our picket at the river drift. In the evening, -cavalry reported a company of the enemy -camped close to the drift, and additional -precautions were taken in camp against an -attack. But the night passed quietly, and no -attempt was made by the enemy, to seize -and hold the river-bank, as was thought they -might do. Our forces here are small—growing -smaller daily through sickness—and a strong -attack of the enemy might now make our -position difficult to hold.</p> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Kissaki</span>, <i>8th Oct.</i></p> - -<div class="sidenote">INCIDENTS OF CAMP LIFE</div> - -<p>This afternoon one of my porters rushed -excitedly into camp and breathlessly told that -three Germans were cutting the telegraph -wires on the road north of the camp. Not, on -the spur of the moment, being able to find the -O.C., I went unauthorised in chase with two -machine-gun volunteers, after I had left word -that I had gone to keep in touch with the enemy, -and asking that reinforcements follow on later. -I found that the enemy had been alarmed by -our porters, who were in numbers in the -bush, cutting wood, and had got a start of -us, but we went in pursuit nevertheless, and -after a hot chase of about three miles we<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_151"></a>[151]</span> -came in sight of the enemy. We had crossed -the river away back, and had followed out the -chase over native tracks, and were now far -over our front. In passing a group of native -kraals we learned that the enemy, who had -just passed through ahead of us, were eleven -strong, so when we sighted them, on the other -side of a bare mealie-field, we paused, awaiting -developments. And while we thus lay watching -under cover of some bush, up came seven -Indian cavalry, who had been sent out from -camp. Immediately they charged on the -enemy, whom we pointed out to them, outpacing -us altogether down the side of the field, -though we followed at a run. I thought then -that we had the raiders sure—but we were -doomed to disappointment. The enemy, before -the cavalry reached them, scattered in -the bush, to the left or to the right?—the -cavalry, nor we, could tell not where—and -escaped under the rank jungle cover. Reluctantly, -and after much unsuccessful searching -of likely groups of bush, we gave up at -dusk and returned to camp, feeling that our -little adventure had deserved a more fitting -finish. However, I think we thoroughly -frightened the enemy, for the wires were not -again interfered with while we lay at Kissaki.</p> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Kissaki</span>, <i>15th Oct.</i></p> - -<p>Seven German Askaris gave themselves up -overnight. They report food scarce, and also -that numbers of natives are deserting and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_152"></a>[152]</span> -going off west through the bush, their purpose -to try to find their way back to their homes. -They also say, as we have heard before, that -the German carriers are partially bound when -in camp, so that they cannot run away in the -night, if they wanted to escape.</p> - -<p>Then I find a few entries when all was not -as it should be and a little cry of impatience -had crept in:</p> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Kissaki</span>, <i>16th Oct.</i></p> - -<p>Bad night; suffering from dysentery. Weak -and lay on my grass-bed all day.</p> - -<p class="right"><i>17th Oct.</i></p> - -<p>Little better to-day and trying to get around -duties. Feeling about “all in” now, but -must stick it out with the others, and trust -that the sickness will pass off.</p> - -<p class="right"><i>19th Oct.</i></p> - -<div class="sidenote">OVERSTRAINED AND LANGUISHING</div> - -<p>Feeling better to-day and cheerier, but I -wish, since I’ve lost patience, that we could -get along with “the Show,” and then be quit -of Africa for a time, for I have a passionate -desire that we should be free to change, just -for a little, the colour and the quality of a -long-familiar picture whose strange characteristics -are now indelible. Sometimes, I’m -afraid, I feel as if I was in prison, and long -for the freedom of the life beyond these prison -walls. Those are times when thoughts quickly -fly in and out the old scenes—dear old familiar -scenes—and they are touched now with a deep -and a sure appreciation. Would that they<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_153"></a>[153]</span> -could stay; would that, by the strength of -their willingness, they could lift me in body -over the vast space and set me in some fair, -peaceful land! But, alas! so quickly as I -write they are back again, exhausted, and -fluttering in the bated African sun-glare. -Nevertheless, for the hour, I am restless as -those thoughts. This campaign, this adventure -of war, has been a long Game of Patience, -and I feel mad, poor wight, at times to chuck -away the cards and run. But, after all, I -know that all is as it should be, and that the -hand must be strong to win. Yet it would -be a very beautiful day in my eyes were it -ever to come to pass, this pictured freedom -from war and bloodshed, though for the -present it is so far down the long blind trail -of the uncertain road before me that I may -but carry the memory of things that have -been, and of things that are ideal.</p> - -<p>So may I ponder—so may others here, -though they are but thoughts that well up for -a moment, and then fade away into the far -distance of space, where, like the setting sun, -or the mists on the hills, they may mingle -with the mysteries of Beyond. However, I -have paused long enough with such thoughts, -and will leave them now, perhaps a little -reverently, and go on with the record of other -days for neither thought nor the span of a -day can hold steadfast for long, without the -intervention of onward passing time, and -change to other scenes.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_154"></a>[154]</span></p> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Kissaki</span>, <i>3rd Nov.</i></p> - -<div class="sidenote">SEEKING A ROADWAY THROUGH HILLS</div> - -<p>I am back in camp again, after being away -seven days on reconnaissance up into the -Ulugúru mountains, to try to find a suitable -track, back over the hills to Matombo, for -porter transport during the approaching rains, -when the low road, via Tulo, will be flooded. -My party was made up of privates Taylor and -Wilson, six native carriers, and a shrewd old -native who was supposed to know the country, -and, contrary to usual experience, did know -it. We found the outermost point of our -journey at Kasanga, overlooking Matombo, -and high up in the mountains—elevation, -3,900 feet—amongst majestic hill-slopes and -fair deep valleys which were cultivated by the -numerous inhabitants of the hills, who dwelt -everywhere, in their little bits of “crofts,” -like the ancient highlander of mediæval ages. -We were two days out from camp when we -found ourselves in this land of plenty, and -land of great beauty; for the scenery surpassed -anything we had previously seen in -Africa. Up in the mountain heights the air -was cool, almost cold; mists fitfully swept -over the peaks and dropped like waterfalls -into the valleys; it rained, then cleared -again—all ever-changing the picture, and the -lights and shades on the mountain slopes, and -in the valleys—truly it was a most enchanting -country. The trail outward, up hill and down -valley, and along the line of least resistance,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_155"></a>[155]</span> -proved to be thirty-one miles in distance, all -of which was measured by counting the paces -as we trudged along, and surveyed by many -compass bearings. From such data I was -able completely to map the route, on my -return to camp, and this was the manner -in which I carried out all such work, when -detailed information was wanted.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">ELEPHANTS</div> - -<p>On the return journey, after descending -from the highest ranges, and when drawing -away from the last of the cultivated area, the -party encountered a small herd of elephant -feeding amongst bamboos, and loudly breaking -their way along a wide valley bottom. Taylor -and I, both armed with ·303 rifles, cut off -the track and went to try to get a shot at -the beasts—both very keen to bag an elephant. -Successfully we worked up-wind on them, -and finally drew near to two animals partly -hidden in the fringe of the bamboo belt. I -doubted the killing capacity of our rifles, but, -when we fired, it transpired that both animals -dropped—though in the thick cover, for the -moment, we couldn’t be sure of the full effect -of our shots—one dead, and the other emitting -the most dreadful trumpet blasts, that echoed -and re-echoed, like thunder, in the enclosed -valley. The wounded animal could, apparently, -not run away, but we dared not, meantime, -go any nearer to him, in case he should -charge us down in the tall, tangled grass, -where, for us, running was well-nigh impossible. -Therefore we decided to leave him for a time,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_156"></a>[156]</span> -and return to where we had left Wilson and -the porters. We found our porter loads scattered -broadcast on the track, but not a black -was to be seen, for, at the trumpeting of the -wounded elephant, they had scattered and -fled in mortal terror. Wilson, who was armed -with a revolver only, and could not take part -in the shooting, in the midst of the uproar -had been, while standing on the track, almost -knocked down by the rush past of a startled -Waterbuck. We shouted for the porters, and, -one by one, they appeared, reluctantly, from -various directions, to be chaffed and laughed -at. They were all wildly excited when we -said we had one or two elephants shot, and -lying in the bamboos below. Taylor and I -had both been suffering from malaria throughout -the day—brought out by the cold in the -hills—so we decided on a drink of tea to -refresh us, and hurried the boys about it, while -excited talk ran high. Twenty minutes later, -though we could still hear an occasional -movement in the bamboos, we decided to -venture down to our quarry, but nothing on -earth would tempt any of the blacks to come. -Soon I saw our quarry, badly wounded, but -still able to move about a bit. A moment -later I put the elephant down like a log, with -a fatal bullet, and we could hear him venting -great sobbing breaths as life gave out. We -now ventured close up, and saw him lying on -his side with all legs out. Now and again his -huge head raised, but only to relax to the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_157"></a>[157]</span> -ground again. By and by he was quite still, -and then we went up to him. We were -looking at him, highly delighted, since it was -our first elephant, when Wilson cried “Look -out!” pointing, as he did so, to our right. -We wheeled round to see, indistinctly through -the canes and grass, the head and the great -forward-thrust ears of an elephant quite close -to us—I fired, and again rang out that appalling -trumpet cry. Soon, as all was quiet, we went -forward cautiously, to exclaim our surprise -when we found a great cow elephant dead—killed -by one of our first shots—and a young -bull fatally wounded beside her. The wounded -animal was dispatched, and, after some trouble, -and assurances that there was not another -elephant alive in Africa, we persuaded the -black boys to venture down, and to start -cutting out the tusks from the skull base with -their long-bladed, heavy, wood-chopping -knives. I left them, then, to get under the -shade of a tree, and to roll myself in my -blanket, for by this time I was absolutely -exhausted, and in high fever. Water had been -found near-by, and I had given orders that -we would camp here till the morning. I -hazily remember looking out of my blanket -about 5 p.m., when the sun was lowering, to -see the tusk trophies lying close to me and the -native boys, “happy as kings,” smoking huge -pieces of elephant trunk, placed on bamboo -racks over well-fed fires.</p> - -<p>Next day, in the morning before we moved<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_158"></a>[158]</span> -on, troops of natives began to arrive from the -hills to cut up, and smoke, and part roast, the -elephant meat—to carry it off, when ready, -to their homes. It was good to see their -simple rejoicing at securing such plentiful -food.</p> - -<p>On one other occasion I ran across elephants -when on reconnaissance work. This was about -six miles south-west of Kissaki, at hot springs -at the northern end of Magi-ya-Weta hill. I -had been out looking over the country, with -the view to finding a road route, when I found -that large herds of elephant had been recently -at the water below the springs, and in some -places had wrecked the bush-forest when -feeding—for an elephant, if wanting to reach -the upper growth, thinks nothing of grasping -a tree-trunk, and pulling downwards with -his mighty weight (a large elephant weighs -about seven tons) until the tree, which has -commonly a diameter of six to eight inches, -snaps off like a broken match, a yard or two -above the ground.</p> - -<p>On my return to camp from reconnaissance -I happily received permission to go out again -in quest of the elephants; and set out next -day with my fellow-officer, Martin Ryan—a -Rhodesian, who was an experienced elephant -hunter.</p> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Kissaki</span>, <i>5th Dec.</i></p> - -<div class="sidenote">AN ELEPHANT HUNT</div> - -<div class="sidenote">TWO FINE ELEPHANTS KILLED</div> - -<p>Left camp at 6 a.m., Captain Ryan, self, -and nine natives. We camped about a mile -from the springs at 12 noon. On viewing<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_159"></a>[159]</span> -the ground, which was new to Ryan, we -decided to make the noon camp our base, and -here left six of the boys when we started out -again at 3 p.m. About 4.30 p.m., when still -searching for the large fresh track of bull -elephant, we had the extraordinary luck to see -three large elephants, with fine tusks, coming -along the edge of a belt of forest, on our right -flank and towards us. Ryan, beckoning to -me, immediately set out after them—after he -had dropped a handful of dust to test the -wind—and, crouching and running, we were -soon very close to them, while the short-sighted -brutes, intent on feeding as they moved -along in single file, were still unaware of our -presence. When at not more than fifteen -yards from our quarry, Ryan dropped on his -knees, and fired on the elephant opposite him -(the centre one of the three), trying to get in -the brain shot, just in front of the ear. On -the report of Ryan’s shot the rear elephant -cleared off the way it had come, while the -leading elephant swung wide and then crossed -back, at full run, attempting to rejoin its -companion. This elephant I now gave my -attention to—for I had hesitated, while the -huge bulk of Ryan’s elephant interrupted my -view—and got in four shots which apparently -had no effect, though I felt fairly certain that -the second and fourth shots had been true. -I followed the brute at a run, but, for the -moment, couldn’t find trace of him where he -had disappeared in thicker forest. Meantime<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_160"></a>[160]</span> -Ryan’s elephant had recovered, and had got -away with six shots in him, delivered at hand-to-hand -range; so I rejoined my comrade, to -find him empty-handed and fearing he had -“mulled” his chance. However, we now set -about tracking his elephant over ground very -difficult to follow tracks on, as it was hard and -dry, and strewn with dead leaves, and had -been trampled over recently by numerous -elephants. Again and again we went off on a -false track, until Ryan, whose keen eye was -looking for such minute signs as a single -freshly crushed leaf, or a small broken twig, -stem, or grass, would declare he was at a loss -once more. At last, nearing dusk, Ryan said, -“We’ll have one more try and then go to -camp,”—and the “one more try” found our -prey, outstretched and dead, under the trees -of a thick growth of forest. He was a great -brute with a splendid pair of tusks, the largest -Ryan had ever secured, and this was his -fifty-seventh elephant. A few measurements -I took next day were:</p> - -<table> - <tr> - <th></th> - <th>ft.</th> - <th>in.</th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Length—from snout of trunk to root of tail</td> - <td class="tdr">19</td> - <td class="tdr"><span class="frac">3</span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Length of trunk</td> - <td class="tdr">6</td> - <td class="tdr"><span class="frac">6</span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Height to shoulder</td> - <td class="tdr">10</td> - <td class="tdr"><span class="frac">6</span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Girth of body</td> - <td class="tdr">18</td> - <td class="tdr"><span class="frac">0</span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Length of tusks</td> - <td class="tdr">6</td> - <td class="tdr">1½</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="3">Weight of tusks, 58 lb. and 59½ lb. = 117½ lb.</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<div class="figcenter illowp58" id="illus6" style="max-width: 34.375em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus6.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption"><span class="smcap">A Good Bag: 268½ lb. of Ivory.</span></p> -</div> - -<p>We returned to camp highly delighted with -our success, and reached it with difficulty in -the dark. On the way to camp we encountered -a cow elephant feeding in a swamp, and Ryan<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_161"></a>[161]</span> -took considerable pains to pass it, at some -distance, without being detected, for he was -afraid that if it had a calf and scented danger, -it would charge, and prove a furious, fearless -brute. I, in my ignorance, would, perhaps, -not have foreseen danger there, but it afterwards -made me think a bit of the risk of -elephant-hunting, when I saw this seasoned -hunter treating a single animal with such -great respect and care. But Ryan told me -that you may only have to make a mistake -once, and pay the full penalty of it with your -life. He said there are few men, who have -hunted elephants long, who are not in the end -caught; and long is his list of those who have -been killed in Rhodesia by an enraged elephant, -at the far end of their hunting days.</p> - -<p>We could hear many elephants moving near -camp during the night—a herd of cow elephants, -Ryan conjectured, for at this season the bulls -roam singly or in very small numbers.</p> - -<p>At daybreak next morning we set out for -the scene of yesterday’s adventure, taking all -the boys with us. On reaching our quarry -we started the natives to break in the skull -to the root of each tusk, an undertaking that, -even with axes that we had brought for the -purpose, kept the boys incessantly labouring -for nigh on two hours, so hard and so great -are the bones of an elephant’s head. Meantime, -I and a native had gone off to try to track -my elephant, starting from the point of shooting -and working out to where I’d last seen him.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_162"></a>[162]</span> -Soon, following his track step by step, we -found he had swung to the right, and I then -knew I had overrun him yesterday. In a -quarter of an hour more, great was my joy to -come on him stone dead, not 500 yards from -where Ryan’s elephant lay. Again he proved -to be all that he had looked (for Ryan had -yesterday declared the leading elephant to be -the best one), a grand old bull, with a beautiful -pair of tusks, weighing, it later proved, -74 lb. and 77½ lb., = 151½ lb., and measuring -6 ft. 5½ in. in length. He was shot through -the lungs, and his right hind-leg was crumpled -up under him, so probably he was hit somewhere -there also, though it was, of course, -impossible to move him and see.</p> - -<p>We got back to camp in the late afternoon -with our loads of ivory, which took six men -to carry, and next day trekked to Kissaki, -where our arrival with such fine trophies caused -much interest and not a little excitement.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">PREPARING TO ADVANCE AGAIN</div> - -<p>The last weeks of the year 1916 marked -various activities on our front, in preparation -for another advance. Trees were felled in large -numbers in the river neighbourhood, and with -such crude timber more than one stout bridge -was thrown across the Mgeta River, opposite -our camps.</p> - -<p>Away, even to Kirengwe, ten miles west of -the old boma, a party of us went out to cut a -twelve-foot road through an otherwise impenetrable -forest belt, in preparation for a<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_163"></a>[163]</span> -wide flank advance. In those last weeks of -the year, also, some of us did considerable -reconnaissance work, and were interested in -gaining as much knowledge as possible of the -enemy’s country across the river, particularly -in the direction of Wiransi hill, which was on -the enemy’s line of retreat from Dakawa.</p> - -<p>Supplies, too, had improved; and our forces -were strengthened and augmented by other -units. Captain Selous, who had been invalided -home to England some months before, arrived -in camp on the 16th of December with a draft -of 150 fresh men; and at a time when our -effective strength was very much reduced -through sickness and exhaustion.</p> - -<p>Selous looked hale and hearty, and the grand -old man he was. How fine an example of loyalty -he gave, in thus, at his great age, returning -again to the front to fight his country’s battles! -It was pleasant to see him back amongst us -again, for his own sake, and for the additional -joy of hearing directly of the old country, -and of how we were faring in the great war at -home. Of course talk drifted to hunting, and -we had to exchange news since last we met: -he of a large butterfly collection which he had -collected in the first year and had taken home, -and we of our hunting since he left. Meantime -machine-gun porters were building the Bwana -M’Kubwa (the Big Master) a grass “banda,” -and soon Selous was comfortably sheltered -among us. I mention this because it was -here, at the old Kissaki boma, that Selous was<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_164"></a>[164]</span> -destined to have his last brief rest from travel, -his last sleep in comfort, ere he met his death -on the field of battle some two weeks later.</p> - -<p>On the 20th of December it was known that -a move was anticipated, and preparations for -trekking were commenced. It was decided, -in due course, that we advance on the 27th, -but on that date, and on the day previous, -heavy rains fell and the move was postponed, -while at the same time it was reported that, -owing to the storm, our heavy guns were stuck -on the road beyond Tulo. If rains continued -it would be most unfortunate. Undoubtedly -the wet season was near, and, I remember, -Selous had grave doubts of the weather at this -period, and feared that the whole operation -might be stopped, for he knew the swift change -the big rains would bring about, and how -flooded and impassable the country would -become. However, after five days of rain, -the weather cleared somewhat, and we had -orders on New Year’s Eve that to-morrow -the Mgeta position would be attacked.</p> - -<p>Meantime, on the 30th, a column, under -General Beves, moved through our camp, <i>en -route</i> to Kissaki Fort and thence to Kirengwe, -to advance, away on the right flank, on Mkalinso -on the Rufiji River.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">ATTACK ON TWENTY-MILE FRONT</div> - -<p>The early morning of New Year’s Day found -our forces across the river at points along a -wide twenty-mile front, and attacking the -enemy’s elaborate entrenchments wherever -they were known to exist.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_165"></a>[165]</span></p> - -<p>Under the direction of General Sheppard, -the fighting on our column took place opposite -Dakawa. Part of the force made a frontal -attack on the enemy’s first-line trenches, and -the remainder, after crossing the river by the -new bridge south of our camp, advanced from -a westerly direction, and successfully intercepted -the enemy in their retirement from -their first line on to their second line. Here -hand-to-hand fighting ensued, and the foiled -enemy Askaris three times charged with fixed -bayonets in their attempts to break through -in ordered formation, but in all they were -defeated and scattered in the bush, in the end -to escape in disorder.</p> - -<p>The 130th Baluchis did splendidly in this -fighting and bore the brunt of the attack. -Losses on both sides were severe, as a result -of the closeness and the fierceness of the -fighting. Toward noon the fighting on our -front had eased off, and, with the enemy -scattered and in full retreat in the bush, we -continued southward on the Behobeho road, -camping at 11.30 p.m., when the column had -advanced some fifteen miles, and was in -touch with our force in occupation of Wiransi: -for a small detachment, travelling through the -bush the previous night, had surprised and -captured Wiransi early in the day, taking -some white prisoners and some stores.</p> - -<p>During the day operations to our east had -been progressing with equal success. On the -centre General Cunliffe, with the Nigerians,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_166"></a>[166]</span> -had advanced from Nkessa’s out to Kiderengwe, -clearing the enemy from the strong -entrenchments before him on the south bank -of the Mgeta River.</p> - -<p>On the left flank, a column under General -Lyall made a hard cross-country trek in crossing -westerly from Kiruru to cut the Duthumi—Kiderengwe -road, on reaching which they -intercepted enemy retiring from before the -central force. Among other incidents during -the fighting, a company from this column -charged and captured one of the renowned -4·1 Koenigsberg guns.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">MGETA RIVER IN OUR HANDS</div> - -<p>Thus evening found the whole network of -entrenchments on the Mgeta River front—so -long the halting-place of operations—completely -in our hands, and the enemy in full -retreat.</p> - -<p>The night of 1st January passed uneventfully. -Bugleless, drumless “<i>Réveillé</i>”—silent -as always in enemy country—was at -4.30 a.m. and we trekked soon afterwards, but -only into Wiransi, where we halted until -4 o’clock in the evening; then continuing, we -advanced out on the Behobeho track some -three to four miles, before striking off south-westerly -through tall grass and fairly open -bush in the direction of the Fuga hills. Aided -by the light of a full moon, the column kept -on until midnight, when the hitherto level -bush became more uneven, and thick bush -belts were encountered among low hills and -“dongas” of rough gravel surface. Halt was<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_167"></a>[167]</span> -called in a fairly clear space of tall grass, but -almost immediately exclamations of pain and -acute irritation were heard on all sides from -much-provoked individuals, and the air was -literally full of abuse—we had camped among -a swarm of fighting ants, who straightway -attacked the bare legs and arms and faces -of everyone, in no half-hearted manner, but -with all the malice of their angered millions. -It was suggested that we move to another -camping-ground at once, but no order came -to that effect, and by and by, when the attacks -abated, we dropped off to sleep, one by one, -too tired to continue to kill the more vengeful -of the ants that still bit deep into quivering -weather-toughened skins.</p> - -<p>Next day we continued on, but made -progress slowly in the neighbourhood of Mount -Fuga, hampered by river-beds and their -precipitous descents and ascents. We put in -a trying day’s trek, considerably exhausted -by the heat and oppressive atmosphere of the -enclosed bush, and finally made camp at dusk -between Mount Fuga and Behobeho—which -was known to be occupied by the enemy.</p> - -<p>In conjunction with our force a column to -the east are advancing on the Behobeho track, -and we heard that column in action to-day. -We, on our part, now outflank the enemy from -the west.</p> - -<p>On 4th January we moved before daylight, -and slowly headed in toward Behobeho. -An hour or two later we made a prolonged<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_168"></a>[168]</span> -halt, and lay hidden under cover of -the bush in widely extended formation, while -north-east we could hear the other column in -heavy action. Anxiously we waited—impatiently—but -no enemy fell into the ambush. -After a time scouts, who had been watching -the track which was but a short distance -ahead, hurriedly reported that enemy in -scattered forces were retiring along it. We -then moved forward on the track-road, to take -up positions closely viewing it. As we drew -near to the road some enemy were seen approaching. -On these we immediately opened -machine-gun and rifle fire, surprising them -completely, and inflicting severe casualties. -Notwithstanding this they retaliated, gamely -enough for a little, but our firing wore them -down, and soon those that remained were -silent, and fleeing in the bush. We were now -astride the road in the rear of enemy forces, -but to the wily foe, aided by the nature of the -country, this only meant the brief blocking -of their line of retreat. They would, and did, -avoid the danger in their path by taking to -the wide area of vacant bush to the east of -the track, and scattered there to meet at some -prearranged rendezvous, in a distant zone of -safety.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">TRYING FIGHT AT BEHOBEHO</div> - -<div class="sidenote">F. C. SELOUS KILLED IN ACTION</div> - -<p>Meantime, having cut on to the track very -close to the village of Behobeho—which we -later learned harboured a large German camp—a -lively action soon developed with forces -entrenched before the village. Directly north<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_169"></a>[169]</span> -of the level ground on which Behobeho is -situated, there are some low, gravel-covered -ridges, facing the village, and those we advanced -on to, and there a line was established, -while fierce fighting continued for some hours, -with our men lying on the almost red-hot -ground of the ridge crests, beneath a scorching, -merciless sun. Men who had been exposed -to African sun for nigh on two years, and were -skin-hardened and browned to the colour of -leather, nevertheless suffered serious sunburn, -and were blistered and peeled like delicately -skinned children, on the following day, so -great had been the heat reflected from the -white gravel crystals on which they had lain. -It was a trying fight in other uncommon ways, -for, though we were in fair positions against -the enemy before the village, we were fully -exposed to sniping from the tall trees which -shaded the village, and we suffered a considerable -part of our casualties on that account. -It was here that Captain Selous was killed, -when commanding his company in attack. -His death caused a deep-felt whisper of gravity -and regret to pass along the line of faithful -soldiers, who loved him in uncommon manner, -as their officer and as their grand old fearless -man. Here occurred an incident which speaks -volumes for Selous’s understanding of natives—on -the just consideration of whom he held -strong opinions, and a broad generous view -of kindliness toward untutored humanity in -any form, tempered with the latent authority<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_170"></a>[170]</span> -of a strong man. When Selous was killed, his -native servant, Ramazani—who had been a -gun-bearer of Selous’s before the war—was -overcome with grief and swore to avenge his -master’s death, and through the remainder -of the engagement he exposed himself in -absolute fearlessness in his grim rage against -the foe. At the end of the day he claimed -with conviction that he had killed the man -who had killed his master. About 4 p.m. -Behobeho was occupied, and the enemy in full -retreat to Rufiji, which was now but another -day’s march farther on. Later in the evening the -eastern column, which had had severe fighting in -dislodging the enemy from entrenched positions -on the road farther back, joined our force -here. At Behobeho Captain Selous and a -few of the faithful “lean brown men” were -buried in the shade of a great baobab tree. -Thus the famous hunter finished a career that -had been full of great risks and great adventures, -fighting for his country, at the age of -sixty-five years—seeing through his last undertaking -in Africa as, perhaps, he would have -chosen it should be, for this was the continent -he had explored the outer frontiers of, more -than any other living man, and in the early -days, when Africa was “darkest” Africa, and -primitive races and strange diseases far more -difficult to contend with than they are to-day. -Here he had found his life’s work, and had -risen to renown; and here, on the soil of -Africa, he was destined to die.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_171"></a>[171]</span></p> - -<p>The next four days, being wounded, I -remained behind, and missed our occupation -of the north bank of the great Rufiji River. -But bandaged, and fit but for a crippled left -“wing,” I was able to rejoin my battalion -at Kibambawe, and again take on my machine-gun -command, which was otherwise without -an officer, since few remained fit at this stage. -I found all our forces on the banks of the -Rufiji, and dug in against the enemy away -across the marsh-banked stream which, from -memory, had a width of from 700 to 1,000 -yards.</p> - -<p>The opposite bank had been subjected to -searching machine-gun fire during the first -two days, and now the enemy were quiet, and -to effect a crossing of our forces we—and -also the western column, which had reached -Mkalinso—were apparently but waiting the -construction of rafts, and the arrival of the -row-boats which were being brought up, all -this distance inland, from Dar-es-Salaam to -surmount the difficulty of bridging this river. -However, our battalion remained but three -more mildly eventful days on the Rufiji front: -then, being relieved, we had to commence a -long fourteen days’ march back to Morogoro, -there to enter rest-camp, and ultimately, some -time later, to be sent from Dar-es-Salaam to -South Africa to recuperate for three months -at “the Cape.”</p> - -<p>The big rains were approaching. It transpired -that they broke on 25th January, soon<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_172"></a>[172]</span> -after our forces had crossed and effected a -lodgment on the south shores of the Rufiji—and -there active operations ended for some -months, while the country was deluged with -torrential tropical rains.</p> - -<p>A dispatch of General Hoskins, then commanding -the East Africa Forces—since General -Smuts had a few weeks previously been called -to the War Cabinet in London—stated:</p> - -<div class="blockquote"> - -<p>“By the 27th January the lines of communication -from Mikessa (on the Central -Railway) to Kibambawe were interrupted by -the washing away of bridges and the flooding of -roads, and operations in all areas were henceforth -seriously hampered by the untimely rains.</p> - -<p>“In the Mgeta and Rufiji valleys roads -constructed with much skill and labour, over -which motor transport ran continually in -January, were traversed with difficulty and -much hardship a month later by porters -wading for miles in water above their waists.”</p> - -</div> - -<p>To native regiments was left the unpleasant -task of “holding on” under those dreadfully -trying conditions, and there they remained, -through the months to come, marooned on -their little bits of dry islands, with flood water -ankle deep around them; while we, lucky -people, were out of it for the time being, and -were at last to enjoy rest and change, and to -witness, in South Africa, the civilisation and -society to which our long-bushed eyes and -minds had been completely estranged for nigh -on two years.</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp75" id="map3" style="max-width: 62.5em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/map3.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption">LINDI AREA</p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_173"></a>[173]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII<br /> -<span class="smaller">THE END OF THE CAMPAIGN ON GERMAN SOIL</span></h2> - -</div> - -<p>Our glorious rest of three months at “the -Cape” came to an end—months which had -been filled with the joy and appreciation of -men who had come out of scenes that had -borne something of nightmare into the full -light of life, among people of their own kind, -in a beautiful, peaceful land. The intellectual -uplifting was supreme. Minds that were fever-weakened, -and depressed, and unresponsive—and -few had not been affected by prolonged -hardship and equatorial climate—came again -to life and ordinary buoyant activity.</p> - -<p>But our rest was over. On 12th May, 1917, -we regretfully bade good-bye to Cape Town -and travelled by train overland through -the bleak Karroo Veldt, and on to Durban, -to embark again there for East Africa on -19th May. Durban had for some days been -the gathering-point for this movement, and -many troops were congregated here when we -arrived. Five ships, loaded with troops and -stores, made up the convoy which sailed from -Durban for East Africa, a considerable reinforcement -that promised an immediate recommencement<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_174"></a>[174]</span> -of offensive operations now -that the rainy season was over. Then, too, -on the <i>Caronia</i>, which was one of the ships -of the convoy, were General Van Deventer -and General Beves, and their staffs, hastening -back to take again the field. This great liner, -the <i>Caronia</i>, was on her way to India with -troops, and was only to touch in on the East -African coast, but serious combustion set in -in her coal bunkers and threatened to delay -her voyage, and therefore, on nearing our -destination, those of us going to East Africa -transferred to naval craft at sea, and thenceforward -proceeded to port.</p> - -<p>On the morning of 29th May, I and a few -comrades, who had been travelling overnight -on an auxiliary cruiser, found ourselves -on deck, and the ship standing off the low -white sand shore of Lindi Bay, a mile or more -from land. Thus we had again come in sight -of East Africa—again we looked on the silent -land that lay before us, darkened with that -unforgettable growth of bush thicket that -reached to the very borders of the sea. We -viewed the shore with mixed feelings: adventure -still held an attraction to us, but the -country had, in its latent possibilities, the -power to appal the searchings of imagination, -and it was with feelings more sober than -otherwise that we contemplated the land -before us. For there lay the bush-land, as it -had always lain before us, an over-dark picture -which no man could surely read, though he<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_175"></a>[175]</span> -knew, since he had seen it in another light, -and had looked at it closely, that behind the -foreground in view there was concealed the -vague lines of startling drama.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">LINDI</div> - -<p>Meantime a small steam tug had put out of -Lindi, and when this drew alongside we boarded -her, and, bidding cheery good-bye to the officers -of the cruiser, who had been brief but the -best of comrades, the little tug “jug-jugged” -earnestly in for shore. Approaching shore we -again transferred—this time to a row-boat, -which in turn grounded on the shallow beach -before the town; and we finally landed dry-shod -on the backs of the native crew, who -waded ashore.</p> - -<p>Lindi, a town of some 4,500 native inhabitants, -is about sixty miles north of the Portuguese -border, and about eighty-five miles -south of Kilwa (Kivenje). Lindi, before it -fell into our hands, had been the southern -head-quarters of the Protectorate, and at the -north end of the town there is a large, stone-built -fort and extensive barrack buildings. -Along the shore front, facing the sea, there are -a number of large, colonial, commercial buildings -and residences: otherwise the town, -which extends inland from the sea, is comprised -of palm-shaded streets of grass-roofed, mud-walled -huts, with an odd whitewashed hut -inset here and there—the barter-den of an -Arab or Goanese trader. Lindi is low-lying -and unhealthy, as is the Lukuledi Valley, -south of the town, where the broad swamp<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_176"></a>[176]</span> -estuary of the Lukuledi River flows into the -bay. Moreover, the brackish-flavoured well -water of the town was very bad, and added -to the tremendous difficulty that was experienced -in maintaining the health of white troops -in this area. Behind Lindi the ground rises -to a low hill-crest, the ridge of which runs -north parallel to the coast line, and it was -along this crest, overlooking the roads inland, -that our present line terminated. In pre-war -days sisal, palm oil, and rubber had been the -chief products developed in this area by -settlers, and large, carefully cultivated estates -were plentiful in this neighbourhood.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">VON LETTOW’S FORCES</div> - -<p>At Lindi we were soon fully occupied preparing -for active operations. The main force -of the enemy—excepting the smaller force near -Mahenge under Tafel, and opposed to General -Northey—were now confined to a limited area -in the south-east corner of the Colony, and -were facing our forces at Lindi and Kilwa. -This force, under General von Lettow-Vorbeck, -was estimated to be 4,000 to 5,000 strong. -Against these forces a new offensive began -under the command of General Van Deventer, -who at the end of May relieved General -Hoskins; and from June onward was carried -on relentlessly, while the enemy, with their -backs to the wall, as it were, fought desperately.</p> - -<p>Behind the Kitulo hill, which rose immediately -west of Lindi, lay a broad flat swamp -through which crossed the Mtupiti and Ngongo -Rivers on their course to the Lukuledi estuary.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_177"></a>[177]</span> -Across this waste the enemy were holding a -strong line, on a nine-mile front, in the rubber -plantations and bush, with particularly strong -fortifications at Schaafer’s Farm and Mingoyo -village on this line.</p> - -<p>On 10th June it was decided to attack, -and on that day columns left Lindi to flank -widely those positions on their north and south -extremes. The force to the north, which -marched inland from Lindi, was composed -mainly of a battalion of King’s African Rifles -and some artillery. The force operating south -was comprised of another battalion of King’s -African Rifles, our own battalion—the 25th -Royal Fusiliers—and South African Field -Artillery. Under cover of darkness the latter -force was to proceed some miles inland up the -wide river estuary, and effect a landing, if -possible, in the centre lagoon of the three at -the head of the estuary, where a trolley line -from Mkwaya terminated at a small timber -landing-stage. General O’Grady was in command -in this area, and the operations were -carried out under his direction, and personal -supervision in the field.</p> - -<p>On the evening of 10th June, toward -sundown, scenes that were strange, and that -must have astonished the native inhabitants, -were afoot on the water-front at Lindi. Out -in the sultry, windless channel, with their -bows up-stream, lay the active-looking warships -H.M.S. <i>Hyacinth</i> and H.M.S. <i>Thistle</i>, -while between them and shore fleet motor-boats<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_178"></a>[178]</span> -plied busily on ordered errand. Inshore wide-beamed -lighters with steam tugs in attendance -lay off the end of the shallow-draught pier, while -a number of large open boats, linked together -in twos and threes by their bow ropes and -towed by motor-craft, lay outside in the -current—all in readiness to take aboard their -human freight. And then, into the town -marched soldiers in fighting kit; a battalion -of British infantry appearing from the north, -while black troops and some artillery came -down from the hills: all to come to a halt in -a long column on the dust-thick road on the -shore front near to the pier. As dusk approached, -embarkation commenced, under -naval and military direction, and under orders -of strict silence—and gradually the boats filled -while the line on the road melted away until -none remained on shore!... All were aboard! -and we drew off shore and lay to in the bay -waiting for darkness—an ominous force, in -their silence that was nigh to sullenness, but -in reality filled with suppressed excitement -over the novelty and promise of adventure.</p> - -<p>We had not long to wait for darkness. Soon -it crept down rapidly, as is its habit in Africa. -Under naval direction the craft then cast -loose one by one, and the dark forms on the -water, each in the wake of the other, followed -silently on their way up-stream. In the lead -were the patrol launches armed with machine-guns, -and some of the intermediate motor-boats -were likewise prepared for emergency.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_179"></a>[179]</span></p> - -<div class="sidenote">A NIGHT LANDING</div> - -<p>Hour after hour we crept up the wide stream -with black, threatening shores on either beam, -and all remained quiet, and nothing stirred -on land to break the stillness of the sultry -night nor our pent-up expectancy. Our -destination was eight miles up-stream. About -half-way we passed through the narrow neck -between Kombe and Kala islands, and a short -time later our motor-boat, when hugging the -east bank, had the misfortune to ground on a -sand-bar and hold fast. While we lay there, -phantom dark craft passed us, going up-stream -and returning down. One heard a low, tense -word or two spoken across the gloom, the -muffled beat of the engines; and then the -darkness swallowed everything. After some -delay and much exertion with poles and oars, -we got afloat again and proceeded, now more -slowly, up-stream, keeping our course by -following a tiny bright light, like a firefly, -that showed now and again in the distance -ahead, where the leaders were in the stream -or had landed at an important bend in the -channel.</p> - -<p>About midnight, when we were still persistently -working up the channel, which had -narrowed considerably, exclamations and low -voices drifted to us out of the darkness ahead. -In a moment more we knew that we were at -our destination, while voices directed us to the -landing-place close on our right. It was very -dark—so dark that one could at best see a -yard or two—so, groping along the boat-bottom,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_180"></a>[180]</span> -you got near to where a voice said “jump,” -and in doing so found yourself immersed to -your very knees in deep, holding mud through -which, after you had got rifle and equipment -clear of the mess, you waded heavily ashore; -no longer dry and fairly comfortable, but wet, -mud-plastered and chilled, and thoroughly -uncomfortable.</p> - -<p>On our arrival we learned that, at the landing, -a German picket had been alarmed and -driven in, and therefore we knew that the -enemy command would soon be warned that -danger threatened.</p> - -<p>Back from the landing there was a long, -narrow, level mud-flat, clear of the bush that -bordered it blackly on either side, and here -our forces formed up as they landed. Finally, -when all were accounted for and in position, -word was passed round that we were to remain -here for an hour or two, and men stretched -themselves on the hard tidal-damp ground -and shivered; yet slept as only tired soldiers -can sleep.</p> - -<p>At 3 a.m. we were up and on the move -again; slowly marching up the trolley line -that led inland, in a southerly direction, -toward Mkwaya. Breaking the stillness of a -bush-land that apparently lay asleep and -without inhabitant, I remember a solitary -cock, at some near-by dwelling, crowed clear -and full-voiced as we neared Mkwaya; declaring -habitations, and promising the coming -of dawn. Almost immediately afterwards the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_181"></a>[181]</span> -first faint shade of daylight was heralded by -the boom of artillery from the direction of -Mingoyo.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">ARTILLERY ENGAGED</div> - -<p>Overnight the monitors had moved into the -estuary, and it was on H.M.S. <i>Thistle</i>, who -had nosed her way far up-stream, that the -Germans opened fire. Reply came immediately -from the ships, and, as soon as it was full -daylight, they were heavily shelling all enemy -positions within range. During the action -H.M.S. <i>Thistle</i> received one disturbing direct -hit, but not a vital one, and she remained -seaworthy through the action. Aeroplanes -were up all morning busily “spotting” for -our guns, and observing enemy movements as -best they could in the darkly screened bush.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">ZIWANI</div> - -<p>Meantime, our turning-point had been -reached at Mkwaya, and we now headed -westerly in the direction of the Mohambika -valley, behind Mingoyo, while the King’s -African Rifles, who were an hour or so in -advance of us, were now well out on our left -flank and moving parallel to us. Some two -hours later we had reached the valley crest at -Ziwani, and overlooked the Mohambika valley -and across to the opposite crest where lay -hidden, in the bush and forest, the large native -village of Mrweka and Schaadel’s Farm. Large -numbers of the enemy were seen, about 1,500 -yards distant, moving along the edge of the -bush in rear of Mrweka, while smoke-puffs of -gun-fire from the enemy artillery could be -plainly seen farther down the valley toward<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_182"></a>[182]</span> -Mingoyo. An advance was attempted down -into the valley, and action thereafter commenced, -but the valley was found to be almost -impenetrable—a wide sugar-cane swamp in -which the enemy were already located, and -which they commanded from the opposite -valley crest—and, as the left column were by -this time heavily engaged and not making -progress, we were ordered, meantime, to dig -in on the Ziwani crest while the enemy kept -up persistent long-range machine-gun fire on -us. Enemy soon appeared to be everywhere -on our front and left, for whenever patrols -left the ridge and commenced descent into the -valley they encountered enemy in force, and -were driven in. Finally, the situation culminated -when, about 2 p.m., the enemy -launched a terrific attack on our left flank and -attempted to storm our position. On the left -the ground fell away, as in front, and they had -crept up the valley side in the grass and bush, -until no more than thirty yards from our line—when -their fire burst on us like a thunder-clap. -From then on one lost all reckoning of time, -all reckoning of everything, except that there -was something big on that kept every energy -alive and working at fever speed. In the end, -toward night, we had won, and won handsomely; -finally routing the foe from their -offensive at the point of the bayonet, and -capturing two of the three machine-guns which -they had in the line. To add one final trial -to this grim encounter, hives of bees had been<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_183"></a>[183]</span> -shot down from the trees during the action, -and their inmates descended on us at the end -of the day in infuriated swarms to drive us -almost crazy with the agony of their stings. -They inflicted such punishment that many -men could barely see through their half-closed -eyelids on the following day, while everyone -suffered from cruel yellow-poisoned face scars.</p> - -<p>The attack had been a tremendously bold -venture on the part of the enemy, who were, -for the present, under Von Lettow in person, -apparently in large and even superior force in -the neighbourhood, and it gives an idea of -their strength and desperation, and the gameness -of their fighting—which one cannot help -but admire. Had we been native troops, the -result of such a daring blow might have been -different; and even as it was, one looked back -and thanked God for one thing—and that was -that, even at point-blank range, the enemy’s -shooting had been bad, for their deadly sweep -of fire was, in general, too high. Had they -got the correct elevation, their machine-guns -alone were sufficient to deal terrible havoc -along our short, hastily and half-entrenched -line.</p> - -<p>Meantime the column in the bush—wide -on our left—had met with opposition that -they could not well break through; and no -word had come in from the inland column -that was operating in the north, which was -momentarily expected to converge on to the -position across the valley, and relieve the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_184"></a>[184]</span> -pressure on that side; and so, for the night, -there was nothing for it but to hold on where -we were.</p> - -<p>One had here a striking example of the -difficulties of bush operations; of the disappointments, -of the almost impossible task of -keeping in touch with each force, across wide -areas of dense, untouched, unfamiliar bush miles -ahead of the base. One never knows, at the -commencement of a day, the full difficulties to -overcome; one can never altogether foresee -the obstacles that will be encountered to -enforce delay, be it an impassable swamp, -impenetrable forest, an unbridged river, a loss -of direction, or an unknown enemy force. It -has been called a difficult campaign; but the -difficulties have been so gigantic that the -wonder one has is that the men who direct it -have not grown old and grey with the weight -of the anxieties imposed.</p> - -<p>Next morning, too late, the force on the -north occupied Mingoyo and Mrweka, for overnight, -under cover of darkness, the enemy had -evacuated their positions, and had fallen back -on their second line of defence across the trolley -rails at Mohambika village.</p> - -<p>The battalion remained the day at Ziwani, -and the following day, leaving other troops to -hold the line, we crossed the valley and proceeded -by stages, overland, back to Lindi. -The enemy force, through the sudden appearance -of new companies on this front, apparently -now outnumbered ours, and it was, it<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_185"></a>[185]</span> -appeared, necessary to hold on and recuperate -our forces, as far as possible, which were -becoming increasingly difficult to keep up -to reasonable establishment owing to overwhelming -sickness and lack of proportionate -reinforcements. Also, our column was operating -in conjunction with the Kilwa column, -which had a much longer distance to advance -before both would close in on Massassi, the -enemy base of operations. Therefore those -causes accounted for our again “holding on” -for a period at Lindi.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">SICKNESS RIFE</div> - -<p>On 15th June we were again back in -Lindi. A week later the battalion was experiencing -a fell wave of coast fever, which -thinned our ranks at an appalling rate. On -26th June the S.M.O. inspected the men -remaining on duty, to inquire into their general -physique and endeavour to trace the plague to -any local fault, and at that time less than half -our fighting strength were on parade. Other -units were suffering in similar manner, but -were losing men somewhat less rapidly. Next -day camp was moved to higher ground, above -Lindi, but though sickness abated it still -continued to find daily victims, and it was -heart-breaking to be thus weakened of our -fighting strength; more especially as we were -not long returned from our rest at the Cape, -which it had been thought would surely resuscitate -our health for further campaigning. -But looking back now it is apparent that the -hardships of the first two years in Africa had<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_186"></a>[186]</span> -sapped far more than the mere surface strength -of the men, and the short change, though it -brightened everyone outwardly, had not time -to repair completely the debilities of thoroughly -exhausted systems. Moreover Lindi, -and the Lukuledi valley, were undoubtedly -the most unhealthy country it was ever our -misfortune to enter, and we had been in more -than one bad area in the past.</p> - -<p>On 1st July I received orders to take up a -position on Mtanda Plateau, with fifty rifles and -two machine-guns, and there to establish an -outpost one and a half mile from Lindi on -the Noto Road, defending the approach on -Lindi from the north-west, and north, where -coast tracks led away to Kilwa, on which the -enemy might retire, from before the Kilwa -column, and here congregate. Mtanda Plateau -was a broad ridge, overlooking Lindi and the -sea from its south-east bank, and, crossing to -the other side, where the ground again fell -away to low country, its north-west aspect overlooked -great distances of hill-broken, bush-covered -country. The plateau was a jungle of -breast-high grass and low bush, within a -forest of stately mango trees.</p> - -<p>Routine on the outpost was to have strong, -alert pickets posted near the road at night, -and, through the day, to patrol the country -out before us, sometimes to an outward-bound -distance of ten miles. In view of the possibility -of a night attack, on one or two dark -nights the monitor H.M.S. <i>Severn</i> experimented<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_187"></a>[187]</span> -with her flash-lights, turning them on -to our position from where she lay in the bay, -and weirdly those lights, lit up the jungle.</p> - -<p>We remained twenty-four days on this -outpost, but experienced in that time no untoward -incident. One or two German natives -came in and gave themselves up, claiming at -the same time to be porters, but sometimes -such deserters had the military bearing of -Askaris, and no doubt were really such, and -had discarded their equipment and rifle in -fear of terrible punishment for having fought -against us—which was a belief taught them by -their white masters.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">ON OUTPOST AT LINDI</div> - -<p>On the morning of 25th July the detachment -evacuated the outpost, and rejoined -the battalion at Lindi in preparation to -again resume the offensive. On the 26th the -battalion trekked from 4.30 a.m. until 2 p.m. -via Naitiwi, to Mayani, a planters’ station, -having then come thirteen miles, by track, out -into the country of our June operations.</p> - -<p>We stayed a few uneventful days at Mayani, -and on the night of 1st August moved on into -Mingoyo, there to join the column, on the eve -of an offensive against the enemy, who were -holding a front which had its centre before -Mohambika village, on the trolley line, its -extreme north flank on Kipanya Ridge, and -its extreme south flank on Tandamuti Hill: -in all a front of some four miles. The next day -we were in action, which I can, perhaps, best -describe in quoting the following notes:</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_188"></a>[188]</span></p> - -<div class="sidenote">FIGHTING AGAINST LARGE FORCES</div> - -<p>One a.m., night of 2nd August, up and -getting ready to move. Left Mingoyo at -3 a.m.—our battalion, with the main column, -which was to operate on the left flank, and -which advanced slowly through thick bush in -the direction of Tandamuti Hill. Enemy first -encountered about 6 a.m. Engaged in force -9 a.m. and 3/4 King’s African Rifles in attack. -They were a newly recruited battalion, and -this was their first time in action, and the -wear of attack told heavily on them, particularly -when finally opposed to the fortifications -on Tandamuti Hill crest. It was then -that two companies of our unit went forward -to reinforce the front line. They lost no time -in charging the enemy position, but found -themselves, ultimately, against a dense, thorn-built -boma fence, through which they could -not break and, under telling fire, they swung -off to the left flank, and withdrew. The battalion -machine-guns were now established fifty -yards from the boma, after casualties had -lost me four of the most able and invaluable -gunners, and thenceforward the boma and fort -were raked with heavy machine-gun fire, and -shelled by Stoke’s guns; until finally, about -3.30 p.m., the enemy response was completely -silenced within the fort, while German bugles -rapped out their rallying calls in the valley in -the rear of the hill. But orders were now -received to retire, as the other two columns -on the right had been held up; in fact, the -central force, operating immediately south of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_189"></a>[189]</span> -the trolley line near to Mohambika, had even -been forced to retreat, by weight of the numbers -opposed to them. This was indeed a day -brimful of adventure and expectancy, while -everyone was aware of the great strength -opposed to us, and the desperation of the -fighting. But this was not the end of it. -Soon after commencing the retirement heavy -firing broke out in our original rear. It transpired -that Kraut, in command of a company, -had broken into our line of communication, and -had attacked and scattered the whole of the -1st-line transport porters and their escort. -The defenceless porters had flung away their -loads and fled, leaving everything to the mercy -of the enemy, and we encountered inconceivable -disorder on the baggage-littered track -when we came along. But, just before reaching -this point, we, too, were pounced on by an -ambush on the left, and terrific firing again -ensued until the enemy were driven off. We -then came to the advanced Field Hospital, -where it was found the German raiders had -entered, and even had had the audacity to -order the native orderlies to supply the German -whites with tea, while they removed all the -quinine and such medicines of which they -were in need. But the whites had treated the -wounded with consideration, and, with revolvers -drawn, had ordered their wildly excited blacks -to stand clear of any possibility of interference.</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus7" style="max-width: 62.5em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus7.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Tandamuti.</span></p> -</div> - -<p>Finally we marched wearily into Ziwani, -to camp about 11 p.m., very tired after being<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_190"></a>[190]</span> -twenty-two hours on our feet. So ended -another day of battle, one of hard fighting and -heavy casualties, and one which goes to show -that at periods we had not got it all our own -way by force of numbers, nor by superior -fighting qualities, and that the final defeat of -the enemy was the result of many a hard knock, -given and taken. As General Van Deventer -said, later, in a dispatch dated 21st January, -1918:—“The completion of the conquest of -German East Africa could only be brought -about by hard hitting and plenty of it”—which -has, has it not? much of the theory which -General Foch had on the battle-fields of France.</p> - -<p>On 9th August preparations were again -afoot to resume the offensive, and a column -under Colonel Taylor—which contained, in -part, the remnants of the 8th South African -Infantry, lately landed in Lindi from farther -up the coast—left about midday to strike east -into the Lukuledi River, and, thence, southward, -to be in a position to outflank widely -Tandamuti on the following day.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">TANDAMUTI FRONT CLEAR</div> - -<p>On 10th August our force advanced up the -Mohambika Valley in touch with the trolley -line, which was on our right. At evening we -camped west of the old Tandamuti position, -having passed Mohambika village and come -to our halting-place without encountering any -sustained resistance.... On the morning of -this day at 7 o’clock, and again recommencing -at 1 p.m., Tandamuti Hill was heavily shelled -by the long-range guns of the monitors <i>Severn</i><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_191"></a>[191]</span> -and <i>Mersey</i>, from where they lay up the river -estuary some eight to ten miles to the north-east, -and also by the howitzers of the Royal -Garrison Artillery, and the field guns of the -South African Artillery. And this cannonade, -and the threat of impending attack of the -same severe nature as in the preceding week, -apparently decided the enemy’s retirement, -for by the evening we had advanced and were -in possession of all the positions which we had -fought so hard for a week before. Next day, -but now leaving the trolley track and striking -deeply into the bush, the advance continued, -and during the forenoon we joined in with the -left column, which then preceded us in a -southerly direction, through tall grass and much -bad bush. Light engagements occurred from -time to time with the advance guard, but the -column kept moving on, though progress was -painfully slow, while every new aspect of the -country ahead was being carefully investigated, -for well was it known that any 100 yards of -fresh ground might hold an ambush and a -trap. At the end of a wearisome day we -reached the Lukuledi River, where it flows -for some miles on a course due east, and then -camped about 1½ mile west of Narunyu, which -was reported occupied by the enemy.</p> - -<p><i>12th August.</i>—Thoughts recall the grouse -moor, and this day of days at home, but again -it passes with but memories. All porters have -gone back to bring forward rations, while we -halt here near Narunyu.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_192"></a>[192]</span></p> - -<p>From 13th August to 18th August we remained -closely in one area, where low hills -and ridges encompassed us on all sides. West -of us the enemy had established a line defending -the approach to Narunyu, and our line dug in -before them, while engagements daily occurred -here and in the neighbourhood, and we were -fitfully subjected to shelling by the enemy’s -artillery.</p> - -<p>The weather at this time broke down, and we -had five consecutive days of heavy rain, which, -as we had no blankets or grass-hut shelters, -made us very cold, wet, and miserable, while -during the nights we slept lying in rain-soaked -mud—a condition of things that brought out -even more fever than usual.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">FIERCE FIGHTING</div> - -<p><i>18th August.</i>—Overnight, under cover of -darkness, part of our forces evacuated camp -and travelled northerly, and then westerly, -until we drew in to the trolley line: then we -lay down and waited until early morning. At -3 a.m. we were moving again, and the column -had crossed the open avenue of the trolley line, -and were lost again in the bush, before daybreak. -All morning we moved, through truly -terrible thorn-bush country, in a south-westerly -direction, thereby widely circling round to -attack the Narunyu position from the west, -while our other forces, at the camp we had left, -would hold the enemy’s attention on the east. -About 11 a.m., when drawing in to the hill-crest -overlooking Narunyu, which is situated -in a valley bottom, the first-second King’s<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_193"></a>[193]</span> -African Rifles, in the lead, encountered large -forces of the enemy, and entered into action. -On their establishing a firing line, the rear -of the column was drawn in, and a perimeter -was formed, for, in the thick bush we were then -in, attack might threaten from any direction. -This was a wonderfully wise and fortunate -precaution, for no sooner were our lines on all -sides established than the enemy opened a -determined attack on our right flank; and, as -the fight continued, fierce and sustained attacks -developed later, even in our rear and on -our left. In other words, the enemy were all -around us and trying to break through our -“square” in the bush. It was a day of -tremendous battle. There were, within the -circle, the first-second King’s African Rifles, -25th Royal Fusiliers, and Stoke’s Guns, and -back to back they fought, without one minute’s -cease in the deafening fusillade, until long after -dark. It was here that one saw, and realised, -the full fighting courage to which well-trained -native African troops can rise. The first-second -King’s African Rifles was one of the -original pre-war regular battalions, and magnificently -they fought here; and we, who were -an Imperial unit, felt that we could not have -wished for a stouter, nor a more faithful, regiment -to fight alongside of. About 8 p.m. the -firing ceased and we had at last a breathing -space and could hear each other speak in normal -voice. But all was not yet over. At 9.30 p.m. -an enemy whistle blew sharply—and instantaneously<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_194"></a>[194]</span> -a great burst of enemy fire swept the -square from the right flank, and from closer -quarters than before. An enemy force had -crept in in the darkness and silence, and tried -to take us by surprise. But they reckoned -wrongly, and in the end, after a fierce encounter, -they were driven off and silenced: though -movement and groans, from beyond our front, -continued long into the night while the enemy -collected their dead and wounded.</p> - -<p>There was now opportunity to review the -situation and its vital points: the King’s -African Rifles were very short of ammunition, -and it was felt that the situation might become -serious in the event of a sustained -night attack—what ammunition could be -spared was handed over to them by our -battalion.</p> - -<p>Casualties, after such extremely heavy fighting, -were not excessively heavy, which was -undoubtedly due to the lie of the ground, for -our position was in a slight dip that could not -be detected from the enemy lines. We were -out of touch with G.H.Q. and the reserve -column, and a patrol was sent out to try to -get through to Head-quarters, though we had -now no fear of joining up, for we had confidence -we could hold on, and had in the fighting -worn down the enemy’s will to strike. <i>Water</i> -was our greatest need—there was none within -our square.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">AN ANXIOUS NIGHT</div> - -<p>At last our anxieties ceased. Weary, powder-blackened, -mud-filthy, thirsty beyond the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_195"></a>[195]</span> -telling, the line slept fitfully through the -remainder of the night.</p> - -<p>Dawn found everyone standing to, and -patrols investigating the bush out in front of -the lines. Some patrol fighting took place -close in, but the enemy trenches of yesterday -were found to be evacuated, and the enemy -line now some 700 yards away on our right -flank and front. At 9 a.m. General O’Grady -arrived in camp, and relief was felt that we -were again in communication.</p> - -<p>Heavy fighting had been experienced at all -points yesterday, and casualties of comrade -acquaintances, in other units, were learned of -with regret.</p> - -<p>It was decided that we were to hold on here, -and arrangements were made to bring water -to camp, while bully and biscuit would be our -ration—no tea, no cooked food, for no fire -could be allowed on account of the smoke, -which would have marked our position to -enemy artillery. The enemy were shelling -the square and shooting dangerously close, -but were unable to locate us exactly, or tell -where their shells were landing, in the dense -bush. To-day all ranks were very exhausted -after the past week of blanketless, half-sleepless -nights and the extreme strain of yesterday.</p> - -<p>For five days we lay in the confined square -in our shallow trenches, drinking sparingly of -foul water, and holding impatiently on, while -smaller engagements went on with the enemy, -who continued to invest our front closely and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_196"></a>[196]</span> -right flank. Our porters had a bad time here. -In time cooked food was sent up for them from -the rear, but on the first two days it was -common to see the poor creatures hungrily -munching their uncooked ration of hard rice-grains. -At the end of the five days, many of -them were almost unable to walk, and could -not be burdened with an ammunition load.</p> - -<p>On 22nd August our battalion received -orders to withdraw under cover of night to the -reserve column at the main camp back some -miles on the trolley line and west of Tandamuti—a -camp which was designated C.23.</p> - -<p>The withdrawal was quietly accomplished, -and at 9.30 p.m. we camped at C.23. And -then we had, what in the past few days we had -come to dream of—tea, tea, tea. Camp-fires -were started everywhere, and we sat there and -feasted our fill of tea that tasted threefold more -fragrant and delicious than ever before, and on -cooked food, warm and palatable, and long we -sat into the hours when weary heads should -have been asleep.</p> - -<p>We remained at C.23 until 4th September, -and at intervals each day were shelled by -the enemy’s long-range guns, at aggravating -intervals.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">TERRIBLY UNHEALTHY COUNTRY</div> - -<p>A large camp had sprung up at C.23, and -additional forces and additional stores were -daily arriving. But we were in terribly unhealthy -country; the air was close and oppressive, -and the sun merciless; and men went -about their duties with listless bearing. The<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_197"></a>[197]</span> -hospitals were full of sick, and troops and -porters were being evacuated in hundreds -every few days. The native African was -suffering as much as if not more than the -European. The 25th suffered no less than -other units, and our forces were sadly growing -smaller and smaller.</p> - -<p>On 4th September the battalion left C.23 -and advanced to the centre and left camps -before Narunyu, to occupy the front line there; -relieving the 8th South African Infantry, who -were tottering with sickness and unfit for -further service in active fields.</p> - -<p>Here utter physical exhaustion, and fever, -which had gripped me for some time, began -slowly to master endurance. For a few days -I struggled on, having just enough strength -to “stand to” by the machine-guns in the -early mornings, and afterwards to direct the -day’s routine. Those days were commonplace—there -was sometimes some exchange of firing -at daybreak, and on some occasions the camp -was shelled; while we were gratified to see -considerable numbers of porter and Askari -deserters come in and give themselves up.</p> - -<p>On 5th September we had news that the -Kilwa column had progressed considerably and -were at Mssinoyi River on 4th September, -sixty miles south-west of Kilwa, and some 110 -miles off their ultimate objective—Massassi.</p> - -<p>On 9th September I had not strength to -walk, and later in the morning I was taken -to hospital. I was beaten, hopelessly overcome,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_198"></a>[198]</span> -though no man likes to give in. General -O’Grady came to see me when I lay on my -stretcher at the Field Hospital—perhaps the -bravest man I have fought under, and the -kindest—and, in my weakness, when he had -gone, I hid my face in the gloom of the low -grass hut and broke down like a woman. I -had worked under his direction many times, on -reconnaissance and other special work, when -he was Chief of Staff, and when he commanded -a brigade, and now he was sorry I was <i>done</i>—and -I, ah well! my heart was breaking because -I could not stay on, as he and the last of my -comrades were doing.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">THE END</div> - -<p>There remains little more to add. By -stages I was transported by ambulance to Lindi, -and thence by sea to Dar-es-Salaam, where at -the end of September I lay for a few days -dangerously ill, and was pulled through only by -the tireless care of the doctor and sisters. On -2nd October I was borne aboard the <i>Oxfordshire</i> -and sailed for South Africa.</p> - -<p>My actual experience of the German East -Africa campaign thus ended. The Lindi -column were, at the time of my departure, -reinforced by the Nigerians, and fighting of the -same severe nature as I have described, against -Von Lettow and his concentrated forces, continued -1½ month more in the fever-stricken -Lukuledi Valley before the Kilwa and the Lindi -forces effected a junction.</p> - -<p>Not long after that was accomplished, on -25th and 26th November, Von Lettow avoided<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_199"></a>[199]</span> -final surrender by crossing the Rovuma River -south-west of Massassi, and escaped up the -Luyenda River into Portuguese territory; -while Tafel’s force—of some 2,000 to 3,000—which, -too late, tried to effect a junction with -the main force, was cut off, and on 28th -November surrendered unconditionally.</p> - -<p>On our side, there is one sorrowful disaster -to record which touches this narrative deeply. -In the final action which my unit undertook—the -only one after my departure—the remnants -of the band, steel-true men who had come -through everything till then, were pitted against -overwhelming odds, when covering a retirement, -and fought till they were cut to pieces.</p> - -<p>It was a tragic ending.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_200"></a>[200]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII<br /> -<span class="smaller">NATURE NOTES</span></h2> - -</div> - -<p>It would be difficult to picture East Africa -without her vivid abundance of Nature, for -it is “the creatures of the earth” that for ever -astonish all who enter this country of vast -wildernesses and few habitations of white men.</p> - -<p>In this connection I will endeavour to describe -some of the forms of wild life that were -most closely associated with camp and trek -during the campaign.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">NATIVES OF EAST AFRICA</div> - -<p>To begin with, if I may bring them into the -category of wild things<!--you may not-->, there were the natives -of the country—who aided us tremendously -during the campaign, and without whose aid -it would have been well-nigh impossible for -our columns to traverse the country. Broadly -speaking, we had to deal with four distinct -types of native—the Swahili-speaking tribes, -the Kavirondos, the Kikuyus, and the Masai. -The Swahili-speaking natives, whose tribes -were numerous and included such fighting -peoples as the Whahamba, Diruma, and Nandi, -were most generally recruited from the coast -areas; they were the most intelligent and -adaptable natives in our service. Many of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_201"></a>[201]</span> -them made splendid Askaris, while as trained -porters, for machine-guns, signalling sections, -and stretcher-bearers, they were extremely -useful, and many thousands were utilised for -such work. Those natives were extraordinarily -keen on their drills—in which they were daily -instructed, whenever opportunity arose, to -ensure combined movement without confusion, -and quick obedience to orders—and it was a -common thing to see them, after a parade had -been dismissed, continue their drill within -their own lines, under the direction of one of -their enthusiastic headmen. They were simple, -good-natured people, those blacks, and very -easy to deal with if one took the trouble to -understand them and their language, and -ruled with a strong yet considerate hand. But -they were unfortunate, and at a loss, when -they came under the charge of strangers who -had not had opportunity to understand them -or their language—which often occurred, owing -to loss of experienced men through sickness -or casualties, and their replacement by men -freshly arrived in the country.</p> - -<p>When we entered German territory many -Swahili natives, of the inhabited districts we -passed through, were hired by all ranks as -personal servants, and thenceforth became -followers of the column. Those were usually -boys of from fifteen years to twenty-five years. -They subsisted on any kind of diet, and often -foraged for scraps in camp and for fruits in the -bush, with much of the instinct of animals.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_202"></a>[202]</span> -Those who were ignorant were taught to cook, -and to do the many little duties of body-servant; -and were a great boon to trek-tired -men when camp was reached and they were -available to cut grass for the bed on the -ground, fetch water, kindle camp fires, and -help in the cooking of food.</p> - -<p>The Kavirondos from the Lake District, -and the Kikuyus from the Nairobi area, were -used almost exclusively for carriers and camp -cleaners, and were perhaps less intelligent -than the average Swahili native, and of lower -type. Nevertheless, some of them were very -useful, and I have used picked men from both -tribes as higher-grade machine-gun porters, and -found them come very close to the standard -of the good Swahili.</p> - -<p>The warlike nomad Masai roamed the upland -grass-lands of their great reserves and held -aloof from warfare. Only as guides in the -early days on the frontier were they of usefulness -to our forces, and at that time they -were often seen about our camps. They were -remarkable for their knowledge of direction -in a country of few apparent landmarks, -and for the speed at which they could cover -long distances, with their ungainly shuffling -run.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">BIG GAME</div> - -<p>I turn now to the big game of the country.</p> - -<p>I know no more interesting and wonderful -sight than that we often witnessed, and that -may be to-day witnessed, on the Kajiado -Plains, and in the neighbourhood of the Guaso<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_203"></a>[203]</span> -Nyero valley. Not even the wonderful migration -of the vast bands of caribou in the far -Canadian North can surpass the sight of game -one will see here in a day. In a single day’s -march herd after herd of game may be passed -feeding plainly in view in the open grass veldt—herds -of wildebeeste, hartebeeste, zebra, -and Grant’s gazelle, are the most plentiful; -and small groups of Thomson’s gazelle, oryx -antelope, giraffe, and ostrich. While in the -Guaso Nyero valley it may be your good -fortune to sight a large herd of buffalo.</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus8" style="max-width: 43.75em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus8.jpg" alt="" /> - <p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Ostriches.</span></p> -</div> - -<p>Eland antelope I only remember seeing in -two localities—at Maktau on the frontier, and -in the Rufiji valley.</p> - -<p>Within German territory no such vast numbers -of game were encountered: but that may -have been because we did not again travel -through open veldt of the same nature as contained -the herds on the frontier. Most game, -in German territory, were seen in the low-lying -Mgeta and Rufiji valleys. At Tulo and -Kissaki, some species of game were plentiful. -At Tulo, reedbuck, waterbuck, mpala, and -wart-hog were numerous, while a number of -hippopotamus haunted the sluggish Mwuha -River. At Kissaki, bushbuck, Harvey’s duiker, -and wart-hog were the principal small game, -while here, and out to the great Ruaha and -Rufiji Rivers, the territory was renowned for -elephant.</p> - -<p>Elephant tracks, old and new, were everywhere -in the neighbourhood of Kissaki, but<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_204"></a>[204]</span> -animals were seldom seen, since they were very -wary, and extraordinarily quick in scenting -danger. If they detect human scent—which -they will pick up a mile or more down-wind—they -are at once alarmed and fast travel away -from the danger, very often covering great -distances before reassured that they have -reached a zone of safety.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">HIPPOPOTAMUS, RHINOCEROS</div> - -<p>At the Rufiji River a remarkable number of -hippopotamus were seen. North of Kibambawe -village there is a chain of lakes no great -distance apart, and I have passed one of those -lakes, Lake Tágalala, when there have been -scores of hippo, visible in the water. I should -think the marsh-banked Rufiji River throughout -its course teems with those strange, cumbersome, -uncomely animals.</p> - -<p>Rhinoceros were perhaps most plentiful on -the frontier, and were often encountered when -patrolling the thick bush, or bush-covered hill-country. -During the many times I have met -those animals at close quarters—and I have -stumbled across as many as four separate -animals in a single night when on particular -reconnaissance—I have never known them to -charge seriously when not wounded. I have -experienced them rush straight on to the sound -of a stick crackling underfoot, but, when they -drew close and got my wind, they veered off -instantly to one side, and escaped in the bush -rapidly and fearfully. I remarked my experiences -to Selous, for they were not what I had -been led to expect, and he corroborated them<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_205"></a>[205]</span> -by saying that he also had never seen one -charge a man when unmolested.</p> - -<p>Selous, too, in discussing lions, in his quiet, -practical way, laid very little stress on the -dangers of hunting those animals. He said -there was little danger of their ever venturing -to attack unless wounded, and then the greatest -danger was in going into long grass to search -for an animal that in all probability would be -lying there concealed, and at bay, and ready -to spring on an over-hasty pursuer. Selous’s -advice was that, “in hunting lions you should -try to get a clean clear shot at your quarry, -at fairly close quarters, and to shoot to kill -with your first shot.” “Don’t attempt snapshots -and wild shooting, which only lead to a -bad hit, and a dangerous lion at bay to be -dealt with.”</p> - -<p>The eerie roar of lions was often heard at -night outside our camps, or near to the bivouac -of a lonely outpost, and sometimes, through -the day, they were seen by our outlying pickets; -but I only know of three being shot by members -of our battalion during our service in East -Africa.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">BIRD LIFE</div> - -<p>I turn now to the bird life of the country. -In the bush, in the neighbourhood of water, -birds, of various kinds, were often plentiful, -and were remarkable, as a rule, for their brilliant -plumage. But they were seldom conspicuous -in numbers in the open, for, as a rule, -they kept closely within the cover of the bush -and jungle grass; and on this account I have<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_206"></a>[206]</span> -often heard unobservant men remark on how -little bird life they saw during the campaign in -East Africa. Their unobtrusiveness, too, was -added to by the fact that very few African -birds are songsters.</p> - -<p>I think the bird most commonly seen -throughout the campaign was the Red-eyed -Turtle Dove (<i>Streptopelia semitorquata</i>), and -their soft cooing in the quiet evenings was -certainly the outstanding note of bird life in -the country. It is a truly African sound—a -sound which one who has heard it will always -associate with African fantasy—and which -sometimes strikes the ear as most pleasant and -soothing, and, at other times, haunts you with -its persistent hint of native sadness.</p> - -<p>A more remarkable call, but only heard -in certain localities, was the strange bottle-bubbling -echoing call of the Lark-heeled -Cuckoo—a largish partridge-barred brown bird -with a long tail—which was usually uttered -at dark, or through the night, by a lone bird -perched somewhere on the topmost twig of -an outstanding bush or tree, sending his soft -note-clear call out over the ocean of misty -leaf-tops; where it would be picked up and -responded to by another like sentinel at some -other distant signal-post.</p> - -<p>The most common bird to enter our encampments -was the White-necked Raven, a bird -similar in habit and colour to the British Rook, -but with a large white mark on the nape of the -neck. He was the chief scavenger of our<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_207"></a>[207]</span> -camps, though, sometimes, he was ably aided -by the Egyptian Kite, one, or a pair, of which -species was commonly with us.</p> - -<p>Common varieties of the neat little mouse-like -Waxbills were, on occasions when we were -near to permanent habitations, the only -“sparrows” to visit camp.</p> - -<p>In odd hours, when the chance occurred, I, -and one or two others who became interested, -collected some specimens of bird life, chiefly -with catapult and trap, in the absence of -better weapons, and, notwithstanding the -difficulties of storage and transport of the skins, -at the end of the campaign had secured the -specimens below recorded; which, along with -a collection of butterflies, eventually, by purchase, -passed into the magnificent collection -in Lord Rothschild’s museum at Tring, where -such splendid scientific research in world-wide -zoology is being extensively and actively -prosecuted.</p> - -<p>The correct nomenclature of all species has -been very kindly formulated by Dr. E. J. O. -Hartert, Director of the Tring Museum.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_208"></a>[208]</span></p> - -<h3>LIST OF SPECIES COLLECTED</h3> - -<table style="max-width: 50em;"> - <tr> - <th colspan="2">Name of Species.</th> - <th>Sex.</th> - <th>Where Secured.</th> - <th>Date.</th> - <th>Reference No.</th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc1" colspan="6">WADERS</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Plover,</td> - <td>Ringed (<i>Charadrius hiaticula hiaticula</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Maktau, B.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">25.10.15</td> - <td class="tdr">30</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Stilt</td> - <td>(<i>Himantopus himantopus himantopus</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Bura, B.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">29.12.15</td> - <td class="tdr">81</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Sandpiper,</td> - <td>Common (<i>Tringa hypoleuca</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♀</td> - <td>Maktau, B.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">27.9.15</td> - <td class="tdr">12</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc1" colspan="6">HERONS, STORKS, ETC.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Hammerhead</td> - <td>(<i>Scopus umbretta bannermani</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Bura, B.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">29.12.15</td> - <td class="tdr">82</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Heron,</td> - <td>Buff-backed (<i>Bubulcus ibis ibis</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Moschi, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">9.4.16</td> - <td class="tdr">110</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc1" colspan="6">PIGEONS</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Pigeon,</td> - <td>Hartert’s Green (<i>Treron calva brevicera</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♀♂</td> - <td>Moschi, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">12.4.16</td> - <td class="tdr">115, 116</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Pigeon,</td> - <td>Rameron (<i>Columba arquatrix arquatrix</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂♀<br />juv. ♀♂</td> - <td>Kibosho, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">1.5.16-<br />5.5.16</td> - <td class="tdr">147, 150,<br />154, 155</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Pigeon,</td> - <td>Crimson-winged (<i>Turturoena delegorguei harterti</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Kibosho, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">7.5.16</td> - <td class="tdr">160</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Dove,</td> - <td>Tamburine (<i>Tympanistria tympanistria fraseri</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Moschi, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">16.4.16</td> - <td class="tdr">128</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Red-eyed Turtle (<i>Streptopelia semitorquata semitorquata</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♀</td> - <td>Lindi, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">6.7.17</td> - <td class="tdr">218</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc1" colspan="6">GAME BIRDS</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Guinea-fowl,</td> - <td>Crested (<i>Guttera pucherani</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td class="nw">Kirengwe, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">2.12.16</td> - <td class="tdr">210</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc1" colspan="6"><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_209"></a>[209]</span>BIRDS OF PREY</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Hawk,</td> - <td>Lesser Barred (<i>Kaupifalco monogrammicus meridionalis</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♀</td> - <td>Lindi, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">25.6.17</td> - <td class="tdr">216</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Eagle,</td> - <td>African Crested (<i>Lophoaetus occipitalis</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Bura, B.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">23.12.15</td> - <td class="tdr">78</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Steppe (<i>Aquila nipalensis orientalis</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Kissaki, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">30.11.16</td> - <td class="tdr">209</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Buzzard,</td> - <td>Steppe (<i>Buteo buteo rufiventris</i> Jerd. [= <i>anceps</i>, Brehm])</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">30.10.16</td> - <td class="tdr">183</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Falcon,</td> - <td>African Lanner (<i>Falco biarmicus biarmicus</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♀</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">14.11.16</td> - <td class="tdr">196</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Falcon,</td> - <td>Pigmy (<i>Poliohierax semitorquatus</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Maktau, B.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">7.11.15</td> - <td class="tdr">45</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc1" colspan="6">OWLS</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Owl,</td> - <td>Great Eagle (<i>Bubo lacteus lacteus</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♀</td> - <td>Tulo, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">26.9.16</td> - <td class="tdr">171</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Spotted Eagle (<i>Bubo africanus africanus</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Lindi, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">7.7.17</td> - <td class="tdr">219</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc1" colspan="6">PARROTS</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Parrot,</td> - <td>Meyer’s (<i>Poicephalus meyeri</i> Matschiei) (Remarkable yellow variety)</td> - <td class="tdc">♀</td> - <td class="nw">Namanga, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">2.3.16</td> - <td class="tdr">85</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Brown-headed (<i>Poicephalus fuscicapillus</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♀</td> - <td>Lindi, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">9.7.17</td> - <td class="tdr">221</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc1" colspan="6">PLANTAIN EATERS</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Plantain Eater,</td> - <td>White-bellied, Grey (<i>Schizaerhis leucogastra</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Bura, B.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">22.12.15</td> - <td class="tdr">77</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Hartlaub’s (<i>Turacus hartlaubi</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Moschi, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">22.4.16</td> - <td class="tdr">138</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc1" colspan="6">CUCKOOS</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Cuckoo,</td> - <td>Lark-heeled (<i>Centropus superciliosus superciliosus</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♀</td> - <td>Bura, B.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">16.11.15</td> - <td class="tdr">49</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">14.12.15</td> - <td class="tdr">69</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Coucal,</td> - <td>Southern Green (<i>Centhmochares aereus australis</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Kirengwe, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">20.11.16</td> - <td class="tdr">202</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Cuckoo,</td> - <td>Golden (<i>Chrysococcyx caprius</i> [= <i>cupreus auct.</i>])</td> - <td class="tdc">♂♂</td> - <td>Bura, B.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">18.11.15<br />14.12.15</td> - <td class="tdr">50</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc"><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_210"></a>[210]</span>”</td> - <td>Klass’s Golden (<i>Chrysococcyx klassi</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Lindi, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">11.7.17</td> - <td class="tdr">222</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc1" colspan="6">BARBETS</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Barbet,</td> - <td>Black-winged (<i>Lybius melanopterus melanopterus</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♀♂</td> - <td>Moschi, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">16.4.16</td> - <td class="tdr">125-130</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Yellow-vented (<i>Lybius torquatus irroratus</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♀♂</td> - <td>Kissaki, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">15.11.16</td> - <td class="tdr">197, 198</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Spotted-breasted (<i>Tricholaema stigmatothorax</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♀</td> - <td>Maktau, B.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">19.9.15</td> - <td class="tdr">3</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">♀♂</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">27.9.15</td> - <td class="tdr">10-11</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Pied (<i>Tricholaema lacrymosum</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♀</td> - <td>Moschi, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">3.4.16</td> - <td class="tdr">95</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Tinker,</td> - <td>Small (<i>Barbatula pusilla affinis</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♀</td> - <td>Bura, B.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">3.1.16</td> - <td class="tdr">84</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Barbet,</td> - <td>Böhm’s (<i>Trachyphonus darnaudi böhmi</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♀♂</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">11.12.15</td> - <td class="tdr">57, 58</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>White-cheeked (<i>Smilorhis leucotis kilimensis</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Moschi, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">27.4.16</td> - <td class="tdr">142</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc1" colspan="6">WOODPECKERS</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Woodpecker,</td> - <td>Bearded (<i>Mesopicos namaquus</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♀</td> - <td>Kirengwe, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">20.11.16</td> - <td class="tdr">203</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Masai Cardinal (<i>Dendropicos guineensis massaicus</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♀?</td> - <td>Moschi, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">8.4.16</td> - <td class="tdr">106</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Hartlaub’s Cardinal (<i>Dendropicos guineensis hartlaubi</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♀</td> - <td>Kissaki, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">9.11.16</td> - <td class="tdr">192</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc1" colspan="6">COLIES</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Coly,</td> - <td>White-headed (<i>Colius leucocephalus</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Maktau, B.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">1.11.15</td> - <td class="tdr">36</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>White-cheeked (<i>Colius striatus affinis</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Bura, B.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">12.12.15</td> - <td class="tdr">62</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">♂♀</td> - <td>Moschi, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">5.4.16<br />8.4.16</td> - <td class="tdr">101, 108</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc1" colspan="6">ROLLERS</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Roller,</td> - <td>Lilac-breasted (<i>Coracias caudatus caudatus</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Moschi, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">9.4.16</td> - <td class="tdr">112</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Cinnamon African (<i>Eurystomus afer suahelicus</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♀</td> - <td>Maktau, B.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">6.12.16</td> - <td class="tdr">40</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc"><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_211"></a>[211]</span>”</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Kissaki, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">7.12.16</td> - <td class="tdr">212</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc1" colspan="6">HORNBILLS</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Hornbill,</td> - <td>Crested (<i>Bycanistes cristatus</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♀</td> - <td>Moschi, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">30.4.16</td> - <td class="tdr">145</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>von der Decken’s (<i>Lophoceros deckeni</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♀</td> - <td>Maktau, B.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">31.10.15</td> - <td class="tdr">32</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Crowned (<i>Lophoceros melanoleucus suahelicus</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♀</td> - <td>Moschi, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">1.5.16</td> - <td class="tdr">149</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc1" colspan="6">KINGFISHERS</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Kingfisher,</td> - <td>Hooded (<i>Halcyon leucocephala leucocephala</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Bura, B.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">14.12.15</td> - <td class="tdr">68</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Lesser Brown Hooded (<i>Halcyon albiventris orientalis</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♀</td> - <td>Moschi, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">28.4.16</td> - <td class="tdr">143</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Striped (<i>Halcyon chelicuti</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Makindu, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">29.7.16</td> - <td class="tdr">167</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Painted (<i>Ispidina picta picta</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♀</td> - <td>Moschi, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">14.5.16</td> - <td class="tdr">163</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Crested (<i>Corythornis cristata</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂?</td> - <td>Bura, B.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">19.12.15</td> - <td class="tdr">74</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc1" colspan="6">BEE-EATERS</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Bee-eater,</td> - <td>Little Yellow-throated (<i>Melittophagus pusillus cyanostictus</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Maktau, B.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">2.11.15</td> - <td class="tdr">39</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Southern Little Yellow-throated (<i>Melittophagus pusillus meridionalis</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">?</td> - <td>Bura, B.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">4.1.16</td> - <td class="tdr">85</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Bee-eater,</td> - <td>Southern Little Yellow-throated (<i>Melittophagus pusillus meridionalis</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Kissaki, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">21.10.16</td> - <td class="tdr">178</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Bee-eater,</td> - <td>Cinnamon (<i>Melittophagus oreobates</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Moschi, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">28.4.16</td> - <td class="tdr">144</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Olive-Green (<i>Merops superciliosus</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♀</td> - <td>Lindi, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">8.7.17</td> - <td class="tdr">220</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc1" colspan="6">HOOPOES</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Hoopoe,</td> - <td>Wood (<i>Irrisor erythrorhynchus marwitzi</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Lindi, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">6.7.17</td> - <td class="tdr">217</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc1" colspan="6">NIGHTJARS</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Nightjar,</td> - <td>Inornated (<i>Caprimulgus inornatus</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♀</td> - <td>Makindu, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">5.12.15</td> - <td class="tdr">55</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc"><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_212"></a>[212]</span>”</td> - <td>Fosse’s (<i>Caprimulgus fossii fossii</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♀</td> - <td>Lindi, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">12.7.17</td> - <td class="tdr">223</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc1" colspan="6">SWIFTS</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Swift,</td> - <td>Palm (<i>Tachornis parvus myochrous</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂ young</td> - <td>Kissaki, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">18.10.16</td> - <td class="tdr">176</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc1" colspan="6">SWALLOWS</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Swallow,</td> - <td>Common European (<i>Hirundo rustica rustica</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Maktau, B.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">31.10.16</td> - <td class="tdr">31</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Lesser Stripe-Breasted (<i>Hirundo puella</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Moschi, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">1.4.16</td> - <td class="tdr">88</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">♀</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">7.5.16</td> - <td class="tdr">157</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Ermin’s Red-breasted (<i>Hirundo emini</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">2.4.16</td> - <td class="tdr">90</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Wire-tailed (<i>Hirundo smithi smithi</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Kibosho, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">21.4.16</td> - <td class="tdr">137</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">♀</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">1.5.16</td> - <td class="tdr">148</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc1" colspan="6">FLYCATCHERS</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Flycatcher,</td> - <td>Neumann’s Scrub (<i>Bradornis neumanni</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Maktau, B.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">7.11.15</td> - <td class="tdr">46</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Mouse-coloured Scrub (<i>Bradornis pallidus murinus</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Makindu, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">28.7.16</td> - <td class="tdr">166</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Littoral Puff-backed (<i>Batis molitor littoralis</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♀?</td> - <td>Maktau, B.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">7.11.15</td> - <td class="tdr">47</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">♀</td> - <td>Bura, B.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">12.12.15</td> - <td class="tdr">64</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Puff-backed (<i>Batis molitor puella</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♀♂</td> - <td>Moschi, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">15.4.16</td> - <td class="tdr">121, 122</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Wattle-eyed (<i>Platysteira peltata peltata</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♀</td> - <td>Kirengwe, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">21.11.16</td> - <td class="tdr">207</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Suaheli Paradise (<i>Tchitrea perspicillata suahelica</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Moschi, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">16.4.16</td> - <td class="tdr">126</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc1" colspan="6">SHRIKES</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Shrike,</td> - <td>White-headed Crow (<i>Eurocephalus rüppelli deckeni</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Bura, B.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">18.12.15</td> - <td class="tdr">72</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Helmeted (<i>Sigmodus retzii</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc nw">♀ juv.</td> - <td>Narunyu, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">2.9.17</td> - <td class="tdr">226</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Yellow-spotted Bush (<i>Nicator gularis</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Kirengwe, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">19.11.16</td> - <td class="tdr">119</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc"><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_213"></a>[213]</span>”</td> - <td>Black-fronted Bush (<i>Chlorophoneus nigrifrons</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♀</td> - <td>Moschi, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">19.4.16</td> - <td class="tdr">141</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Red-breasted (<i>Rhodophoneus cruentus cathemagmenus</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂♀</td> - <td>Makindu, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">7.11.15-<br />18.11.15</td> - <td class="tdr">44-48</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Sombre (<i>Laniarius funebris funebris</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Maktau, B.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">18.9.15</td> - <td class="tdr">2</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Lesser Sombre (<i>Laniarius funebris degener</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Moschi, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">7.4.15</td> - <td class="tdr">105</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Black-and-White Bush (<i>Laniarius aethiopicus aethiopicus</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">13.4.16</td> - <td class="tdr">119</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Grey-headed Green (<i>Malaconotus poliocephalus approximans</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♀</td> - <td>Lindi, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">16.7.17</td> - <td class="tdr">224</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Lesser Puff-backed (<i>Dryoscopus cubla suahelicus</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♀</td> - <td>Moschi, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">9.4.16</td> - <td class="tdr">111</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Makindu, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">30.7.16</td> - <td class="tdr">169</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Great African (<i>Lanius cabanisi</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Maktau, B.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">24.10.15</td> - <td class="tdr">29</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Fiscal (<i>Lanius collaris humeralis</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♀</td> - <td>Moschi, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">8.4.16</td> - <td class="tdr">107</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Black-crowned Bush (<i>Harpolestes senegalus orientalis</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Bura, B.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">18.11.15</td> - <td class="tdr">52</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Lesser Three-streaked Bush (<i>Harpolestes australis</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Kissaki, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">6.11.16</td> - <td class="tdr">185</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc1" colspan="6">DRONGOS</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Drongo</td> - <td>(<i>Dicrurus ater lugubris</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♀</td> - <td>Makindu, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">28.7.16</td> - <td class="tdr">165</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc1" colspan="6">ORIOLES</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Oriole,</td> - <td>Lesser Black-headed (<i>Oriolus larvatus rolleti</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Moschi, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">3.5.16</td> - <td class="tdr">151</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc1" colspan="6">STARLINGS</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Starlings,</td> - <td>White-bellied, Glossy (<i>Cinnyricinclus leucogaster verreauxi</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂♀</td> - <td>Moschi, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">7.5.16</td> - <td class="tdr">158, 159</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Stuhlman’s Lesser Red-winged (<i>Stilbopsar stuhlmanni</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂?</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">7.5.16</td> - <td class="tdr">156</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc1" colspan="6">WEAVERS, WAXBILLS, WHYDAHS, ETC.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Weaver,</td> - <td>Black-headed (<i>Ploceus nigriceps</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Bura, B.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">18.11.15</td> - <td class="tdr">51</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Cabanis’ Yellow-Black (<i>Ploceus melanoxanthus</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Maktau, B.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">7.11.15</td> - <td class="tdr">43</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Golden (<i>Ploceus aureoflavus aureoflavus</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Kissaki, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">8.11.16</td> - <td class="tdr">189</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc"><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_214"></a>[214]</span>”</td> - <td>Uniform Gros-beak (<i>Amblyospiza unicolor</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♀</td> - <td>Kirengwe, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">21.11.16</td> - <td class="tdr">205</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Bishop,</td> - <td>Red-crowned (<i>Pyremelana flamiceps</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Kissaki, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">15.10.16</td> - <td class="tdr">172</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Finch,</td> - <td>Hooded Weaver (<i>Spermestes scutata</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Moschi, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">18.4.16</td> - <td class="tdr">133</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Waxbill,</td> - <td>White-spotted (<i>Hypargos niveoguttatus</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♀</td> - <td>Kirengwe, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">19.11.16</td> - <td class="tdr">200</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Finch,</td> - <td>Melba (<i>Pytelia melba</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Makindu, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">30.7.16</td> - <td class="tdr">168</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td><span class="ditto">”</span> (or Kirk’s?) (<i>Pytelia melba belli</i> [or <i>kirki</i>])</td> - <td class="tdc nw">♀ juv.</td> - <td>Kirengwe, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">21.11.16</td> - <td class="tdr">204</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Waxbill,</td> - <td>Mozambique (<i>Estrelda astrilda cavendishi</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♀</td> - <td>Kissaki, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">22.10.16</td> - <td class="tdr">181</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Little Ruddy (<i>Lagonosticta senegala ruberrima</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Moschi, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">18.4.16</td> - <td class="tdr">136</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Violet-bellied (<i>Uraeginthus ianthinogaster hawkeri</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Maktau, B.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">6.10.15</td> - <td class="tdr">17</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">♀</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">1.11.15</td> - <td class="tdr">35</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Bengali (<i>Uraeginthus bengalus niassensis</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Kissaki, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">18.10.16</td> - <td class="tdr">177</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Northern Bengali (<i>Uraeginthus bengalus schoanus</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Moschi, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">26.4.16</td> - <td class="tdr">140</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Whydah,</td> - <td>Pied Pintail (<i>Vidua serena</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">16.4.16</td> - <td class="tdr">129</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc1" colspan="6">FINCHES</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Sparrow,</td> - <td>Suaheli, Grey-headed (<i>Passer griseus suahelicus</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Moschi, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">4.4.16</td> - <td class="tdr">97</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">♀</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">17.4.16</td> - <td class="tdr">131</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Finch,</td> - <td>Hartert’s Serin (<i>Serinus maculicollis harterti</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♀</td> - <td>Maktau, B.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">25.9.15</td> - <td class="tdr">6</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Buchanan’s Serin (<i>Serinus buchanani</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">18.9.15</td> - <td class="tdr">1</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">♀</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">9.10.15</td> - <td class="tdr">26</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Siskin,</td> - <td>Spotted African (<i>Spinus hypostictus</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♀</td> - <td>Moschi, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">15.4.16</td> - <td class="tdr">123</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">18.4.16</td> - <td class="tdr">132</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc1" colspan="6">WAGTAILS AND PIPITS</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Wagtail,</td> - <td>African Pied (<i>Motacilla vidua</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♀</td> - <td>Moschi, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">3.4.16</td> - <td class="tdr">92</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Long-tailed Pied (<i>Motacilla clara</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">3.5.16</td> - <td class="tdr">152</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Pipit,</td> - <td>Golden (<i>Tmetothylacus tenellus</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Maktau, B.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">1.11.15</td> - <td class="tdr">38</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc1" colspan="6"><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_215"></a>[215]</span>LARKS</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Lark,</td> - <td>Masai Sabota (<i>Mirafra poecilosterna</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Maktau, B.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">15.10.15</td> - <td class="tdr">24</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Foxy (<i>Mirafra alopex</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">19.10.15</td> - <td class="tdr">25</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">♀</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">31.10.15</td> - <td class="tdr">33</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc1" colspan="6">BULBULS</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Bulbul,</td> - <td>Greater Green Forest (<i>Andropadus insularis insularis</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♀</td> - <td>Kirengwe, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">21.11.16</td> - <td class="tdr">206</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Yellow-vented (<i>Pycnonotus barbatus micrus</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Moschi, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">3.4.16</td> - <td class="tdr">96</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">♀</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">12.4.16</td> - <td class="tdr">113</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc1" colspan="6">SUNBIRDS</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Sunbird,</td> - <td>Little Collared (<i>Anthreptes collaris elachior</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Kissaki, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">21.10.16</td> - <td class="tdr">179</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Lampert’s Senegal (<i>Cinnyris senegalensis lamperti</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Moschi, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">31.3.16</td> - <td class="tdr">86</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">♀</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">3.4.16</td> - <td class="tdr">93</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Yellow-bellied (<i>Cinnyris venusta falkensteini</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">1.4.16</td> - <td class="tdr">87</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Bifasciated (<i>Cinnyris bifasciata microrhyncha</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♀</td> - <td>Kissaki, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">18.10.16</td> - <td class="tdr">173</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Kilimanjaro Long-tailed (<i>Nectarinia kilimensis kilimensis</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Moschi, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">13.4.16</td> - <td class="tdr">117</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc1" colspan="6">WARBLERS</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Warbler,</td> - <td>Red-headed Grass (<i>Cisticola ruficeps scotoptera</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Maktau, B.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">29.9.15</td> - <td class="tdr">14</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Dwarf Grass (<i>Cisticola nana</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">8.10.15</td> - <td class="tdr">18</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Common Grass (<i>Cisticola lateralis</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Moschi, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">6.4.16</td> - <td class="tdr">102</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Uniform Wren (<i>Calamonastes simplex simplex</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♀</td> - <td>Maktau, B.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">10.10.15</td> - <td class="tdr">20</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Long-tailed Scrub (<i>Prinia mistacea tenella</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Kissaki, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">9.11.16</td> - <td class="tdr">194</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Crombec,</td> - <td>Jackson’s (<i>Sylvietta</i>) [probably <i>jacksoni</i>]</td> - <td class="tdc nw">♀ juv.</td> - <td>Moschi, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">7.4.16</td> - <td class="tdr">103</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Warbler,</td> - <td>Yellow-bellied Bush (<i>Eremomela flaviventris abdominalis</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♀</td> - <td>Maktau, B.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">10.10.15</td> - <td class="tdr">21</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Golz’s Long-tailed Forest (<i>Euprinodes flavidus golzi</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♀</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">8.10.15</td> - <td class="tdr">19</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Kissaki, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">9.11.16</td> - <td class="tdr">191</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Babbler,</td> - <td>Aylmer’s (<i>Argya aylmeri mentalis</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♀</td> - <td>Maktau, B.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">26.9.15</td> - <td class="tdr">8</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Kirk’s (<i>Crateropus kirki</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♀</td> - <td>Moschi, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">14.4.16</td> - <td class="tdr">120</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Whinchat,</td> - <td>African (<i>Saxicola torquata axillaris</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♂</td> - <td>Kibosho, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">8.5.16</td> - <td class="tdr">161</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Wheatear,</td> - <td>European (<i>Oenanthe oenanthe</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♀</td> - <td>Maktau, B.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">28.9.15</td> - <td class="tdr">13</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>Pileated (<i>Oenanthe pileata</i>)</td> - <td class="tdc">♀</td> - <td>Moschi, G.E.A.</td> - <td class="tdc">4.4.16</td> - <td class="tdr">98</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_216"></a>[216]</span></p> - -<div class="sidenote">SPECIES OF INTEREST</div> - -<p>This was, under the circumstance of soldier -life, but a small collection, but it is interesting -to note that they proved useful and of interest. -Dr. Hartert wrote concerning them:</p> - -<div class="blockquote"> - -<p>“Nos. 1 and 26. It is surprising that a new -species should still be found in British East -Africa. It seems, however, probable that the -specimens mentioned by Reichenow from Ugogo -as probably—judging by the somewhat poor -description and figure in the Proceedings of the -Zoological Society—being <i>Serinus donaldsoni</i>, -are not the latter, but this new species, which -I have described as <i>Serinus buchanani</i> at the -January meeting of the British Ornithological -Club, 1919. I have compared the specimens -with the types and other examples of <i>S. -donaldsoni</i> in the British Museum, from -Somaliland, and it is evident that <i>S. buchanani</i> -differs by its larger and less curved bill, longer -wing, and more yellowish colour, especially -the sides being yellow with faint stripes, not -green with black streaks.</p> - -<p>“The nest of <i>S. buchanani</i> was found at -Maktau in the fork of a thorn tree about eight -feet above the ground, on 26th September, -1915. It is a somewhat flat structure of fibres -and rootlets, interwoven with cobwebs and -wool. The three eggs are pale blue with -purplish black dots and short lines around the -wide pole. They measure 20 by 14·8 and -19·3 by 14·7 mm. They closely resemble the -eggs of the Trumpeter Bullfinch.</p> - -<p class="right">(init.) “E. H.”</p> - -<p>“No. 13, <i>Oenanthe oenanthe</i> (European -Wheatear) collected at Maktau, B.E.A., on -28th September, 1915. This appears to be an -early date for the occurrence of the European -Wheatear so far south.</p> - -<p class="right">(init.) “E. H.”</p> - -<p>“No. 36. <i>Colius leucocephalus</i> (White-headed -Coly). This species is still very rare in -collections. It is at once distinguished from -all other colies by its well-marked white head.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_217"></a>[217]</span> -The first example was obtained by Fisher at -Wapokomo, B.E.A., in 1878, and long remained -a unicum. The trader Abdu Jindi sold a skin -from Bardera to the Paris Museum. The -British Museum possesses specimens obtained -on the Guaso Nyero, B.E.A., by Lord Delamere, -and by Atkinson at Logh, Somaliland. The -late Baron Erlanger collected five specimens -in Southern Somaliland. The bird is figured -in <i>Coliidae</i>, Genera Avium VI, 1906. Quite -recently Zedlitz received three males and one -female from Afgoi, South Somaliland.</p> - -<p class="right">(init.) “E. H.”</p> - -<p>“No. 105. <i>Laniarius funebris degener</i> -(Lesser Sombre Shrike), collected at Moschi, -Kilimanjaro Area, is from a locality that is -remarkable. Hitherto only known from South -Somaliland, but agrees perfectly with <i>degener</i>, -being smaller than <i>atrocaeruleus</i>, and much -less deep black than <i>L. funebris funebris</i>.</p> - -<p class="right">(init.) “E. H.”</p> - -<p>“Nos. 115, 116. <i>Treron calva brevicera</i> -(Hartert’s Green Pigeon). In <i>Novitates Zoologicae</i>, -XXV. 1918, I have, with the help of -Arthur Goodson, reviewed the African Green -Pigeons of the <i>calva</i> group. We were able to -distinguish not less than nine sub-species, and -there seem to be one or two other, still doubtful -ones, in N.E. Africa. In the <i>Catalogue of -Birds</i> in the British Museum all these nine -forms were united, while Reichenow separated -two, and recently four different ones. The -specimens from East Africa have given us the -greatest trouble. It is evident that a distinct<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_218"></a>[218]</span> -form with a very short naked ‘cere’ or basal -portion of the beak, and with a sharply defined -lavender-grey nuchal collar, is found in East -Africa around Kilimanjaro and thence to the -Athi River, Machakos, Matabato Hills, and to -the Kikuyu Mountains and Escarpment. This -form we called <i>Treron calva brevicera</i>.</p> - -<p class="right">(init.) “E. H.”</p> - -<p>“No. 152. <i>Motacilla clara</i> (Long-tailed Pied -Wagtail). This is the bird which used to be -called for many years <i>Motacilla longicauda</i>, but -as this name had been preoccupied, Sharpe -named it <i>Motacilla clara</i> in the fifth volume -of the <i>Hand-list of Birds</i>.</p> - -<p class="right">(init.) “E. H.”</p> - -</div> - -<div class="sidenote">PLANTS COLLECTED</div> - -<p>I collected also during our travels some -specimens of plants for Dr. A. B. Rendle of -the British Museum, and was fortunate to secure -some interesting species, four of which were -new, and not formerly recorded, and have -been described in the <i>Journal of Botany</i> -(October, 1916), while others, unfortunately, -were too fragmentary to determine, or to give -more than a genus name, though nine of -them are possibly new species.</p> - -<div class="blockquote"> - -<p>The East African plants obtained were:</p> - -<ul> -<li class="ifrst">CAPPARIDEAE</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Cleome hirta</i> Oliv.</li> -<li class="ifrst">PORTULACACEAE</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Talinum cuneifolium</i> Willd.</li> -<li class="ifrst">TILIACEAE</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Grewia canescens</i> A. Rich.</li> -<li class="ifrst">GERANIACEAE</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Pelargonium</i> sp.</li> -<li class="ifrst">LEGUMINOSAE</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Vigna fragrans</i> Bak. fil.</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Rhynchosia</i> sp.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_219"></a>[219]</span></li> -<li class="ifrst">RUBIACEAE</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Pentas carnea</i> Benth. (forma)</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Oldenlandia Bojeri</i> Hiern</li> -<li class="ifrst">COMPOSITAE</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Erlangea Buchananii</i> S. Moore (sp. nov.)</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Vernonia Hoffmanniana</i> S. Moore</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Vernonia lasiopus</i> O. Hoffm.</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Ageratum conyzoides</i> L.</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Notonia abyssinica</i> A. Rich.</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Wedelia abyssinica</i> Vatke</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Melanthera Brownei</i> Sch. Bip.</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Senecio disciflorus</i> Oliv.</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Berkheyopsis diffusa</i> O. Hoffm.</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Aspilia</i>, sp.</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Achyrocline luzuloides</i> Vatke</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Zinnia multiflora</i> L. (New World plant; an escape from gardens.)</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Erythrocephalum longifolium</i> Benth.</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Triplocephalum Holstii</i> O. Hoffm.</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Mikania scandens</i> Willd.</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Pluchea dioscoridis</i> D. C.</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Polycline</i> (sp. nov.?)</li> -<li class="ifrst">OLEACEAE</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Jasminum Buchananii</i> S. Moore (sp. nov.)</li> -<li class="ifrst">APOCYNACEAE</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Adenium coetaneum</i> Stapf</li> -<li class="ifrst">ASCLEPIADACEAE</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Daemia extensa</i> R. Br.</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Sarcostemma viminalis</i> R. Br.</li> -<li class="ifrst">BORAGINACEAE</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Cynoglossum lanceolatum</i> Forsk.</li> -<li class="ifrst">CONVOLVULACEAE</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Ipomaea Wightii</i> Choisy</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Hewittia bicolor</i> Wight</li> -<li class="ifrst">SOLANACEAE</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Solanum panduraeforme</i> E. Mey.</li> -<li class="ifrst">SCROPHULARIACEAE</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Rhamphicarpa Heuglinii</i> Hochst.</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Rhamphicarpa serrata</i> Klotzsch. var. <i>longipedicellata</i> Engl.</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Striga elegans</i> Thunb.</li> -<li class="ifrst">GESNERIACEAE</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Streptocarpus caulescens</i> Vatke (Ulugúru Mts.)</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Streptocarpus</i> sp. (Ruwu River)</li> -<li class="ifrst">PEDALINEAE</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Sesamum</i> (sp. nov.?)</li> -<li class="ifrst">ACANTHACEAE</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Thunbergia affinis</i> var. <i>pulvinata</i> S. Moore</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Thunbergia alata</i> Bojer</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Barleria maculata</i> S. Moore (sp. nov.)</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Ruellia</i>, sp.</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Eranthemum Hildebrandtii</i> C. B. Clarke</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Ecbolium namatum</i> C. B. Clarke</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Barleria</i>, spp.</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Barleria ramulosa</i> C. B. Clarke</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Somalia</i> (sp. nov.).</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Blepharis linariaefolia</i> Pers.</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Justicia Fischeri</i> Lindau</li> -<li class="ifrst">VERBENACEAE</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Priva leptostachya</i> Thunb.</li> -<li class="ifrst">LABIATAE</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Leucas</i>, sp.</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Erythrochlamys spectabilis</i> Gürke</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Coleus decumbens</i> Gürke</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Plectranthus buraeensis</i> S. Moore (sp. nov.)</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Leucas leucotricha</i> Baker<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_220"></a>[220]</span></li> -<li class="ifrst">NYCTAGINEAE</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Boerhaavia plumbaginea</i> Cav.</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Boerhaavia pentandra</i> Burch.</li> -<li class="ifrst">AMARANTACEAE</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Aerua lanata</i> Juss.</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Aerua brachiata</i> Mart.</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Digera arvensis</i> Forsk.</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Centema rubra</i> Lopr.</li> -<li class="ifrst">CHENOPODIACEAE</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Chenopodium album</i> L.</li> -<li class="ifrst">EUPHORBIACEAE</li> -<li class="isub1"><i>Phyllanthua amarus</i> Schum. & Thonn.</li> -</ul> - -<p class="center">(Species possibly new when genus only is given.)</p> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">A. B. Rendle.</span></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">British Museum</span> (<span class="smcap">Nat. Hist.</span>) -<i>30th May, 1916</i>.</p> - -</div> - -<p>In collecting in this way, in odd hours, one -was constantly moving about, and to that, -strange as it may seem, I ascribe my good -fortune in keeping fit and free of sickness -during the first two years of service in the -tropics. I feel sure, even if one feels listless -and exhausted, that it is a mistake to lie about -camp in the oppressive heat when off duty, -pestered by flies and camp dust, and brooding -over your discomforts. Some of the men of -the battalion became interested in this searching -for curious things, and, after a time, it was -noticeable that they were the ones most contented -with the hardships they endured, and -among the fittest on trek. Africa had undoubtedly -the power to depress men’s spirits -in no light manner, and thus, to find something -to do and think about, in any interval -of idleness, was a good thing.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">PESTS OF CAMP AND TREK</div> - -<p>Lastly, I will refer to the pests of camp-life -and trek.</p> - -<p>The common house-fly was a terrible pest at<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_221"></a>[221]</span> -all times. They swarmed over everything, -and were a particular source of annoyance -when food was being prepared, or being eaten. -It was impossible to take steps to reduce their -number in the limitless areas through which -we were constantly passing, and there was -nothing for it but to endure the plague, while, -whenever camp was established for a few days, -all rubbish was scrupulously burned or buried -so that they would have as little to attract -them to our neighbourhood as possible.</p> - -<p>A large glossy “blue-bottle”—following the -ghastly trail of dying transport animals, was -also a common and disease-carrying pest. -When the elephants—mentioned previously—were -shot in the Ulugúru Mountains, they were -miles from any habitation, and in vague bush -country, which one would judge was no habitat -of “blue-bottles,” yet in an hour they were in -millions on the dead carcases—so many that -the standing grass was weighed down with the -blackness of flies settled on each stem. The -sense that brought such swarms to one small -centre in so short a time is beyond understanding. -Should a horse die on the roadside, -but a day will elapse before it becomes a seething -mass of “blue-bottle” larva and terrible -to look upon.</p> - -<p>Mosquitoes, in regard to their irritating -bite and their nocturnal activities, were, on -the whole, not very troublesome, and in no -instance have I a record of their being particularly -bad, but they carry the malaria germ,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_222"></a>[222]</span> -and, in that they did so, they were our most -deadly enemy. As protection against them -everyone was supposed, by S.M.O. order, to -sleep beneath mosquito net, but that was often -quite impossible when trekking, and our kit -miles in rear.</p> - -<p>In some parts we passed through, especially -if riding, the tsetse fly was a terrible pest, -for they bite hard and deep, and follow you -persistently on your way for many miles. -It is that fly which is credited with carrying -the germ of that dread disease sleeping -sickness—while, as is well known, its -bite is particularly fatal to imported horses -and mules, and, in lesser degree, to cattle.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">ANTS AND BEES</div> - -<p>Ants, too, were among our enemies. And -once you have been amongst red fighting ants -in long marsh grass you are never likely to -forget them. Sometimes, too, those species -trek during the night, and I have seen a sleeping -camp turned out in the middle of the night by -those insects swarming over everyone and biting -furiously. And, after a day of hard trekking, -this kind of disturbance is very far from -pleasant, as may be judged by the vicious -exclamations of abuse that arise out of the darkness. -These red ants were the worst of their -tribe, and many an uncomfortable experience -we had with them. Again, there was a tiny -species of ant that was always with us. It -infested every article of our belongings, and -particularly anything edible, and on that score -was a great nuisance, though quite harmless<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_223"></a>[223]</span> -otherwise. As if there was not enough to -plague the life of man, spiders, tarantulas, and -scorpions on occasions found their way into -your blanket, and they were insects that were -dreaded, for their stings were very painful -and poisonous and inflamed and irritated the -part afflicted for days.</p> - -<p>There are a great many bees in East Africa, -and the natives place hives for them in the -trees and collect the wild honey from time to -time. These bees, if annoyed, are the most -dreadful insect in Africa. On two occasions -hives were disturbed by our battalion, and -swarms of the annoyed inmates descended to -inflict terrible punishment on all those in the -neighbourhood. On the first occasion their -attack was more than human flesh could endure, -and an entire company was routed in disorder -from the neighbourhood. I have never before -seen bees attack with such ferocity nor sting -so poisonously. On the first occasion of attack -one unfortunate man was completely overcome, -and lay on the ground groaning and screaming, -while bees were apparently biting him to -death. From this he was rescued, but not -before he was mentally unbalanced, and had -to be removed to hospital. On the second -occasion of attack another individual suffered -almost equally severely.</p> - -<p>Many snakes were killed about camp, but -no one of our battalion, so far as I know, was -ever seriously bitten by one. One python -was killed and a number of puff-adders, and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_224"></a>[224]</span> -a great many of the smaller grass snakes. I -have seen men, when sleeping in the open, -awake at daylight to find a snake, 4 to 6 feet -long, curled against their body for warmth, -but, on being disturbed, they slid off quietly -into the grass, and were gone without attempting -to be antagonistic.</p> - -<p>At Kissaki camp we experienced a bad -plague of mice. At the time we were there, -the entire neighbourhood had been burnt out -by the natives in clearing their cultivated -ground of undergrowth, and this had driven -the mice into camp. There were thousands of -them—they lived in your grass roof by the -score, they scuttled about the floor of your hut -o’ nights, and while you slept they played -“hide and seek” over your blankets. It was -a common thing for half a dozen biscuit-tin -traps—make-shift traps made by ingenious -Tommies—to catch a hundred mice in a night.</p> - -<p>Those are but brief references to the forms -of Nature that were closely associated with -the campaign; some giving us pleasure, some -adding to our trials and discomforts—but all -memorable to those who have bivouacked and -trekked under the tropic sun.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_225"></a>[225]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_IX">CHAPTER IX<br /> -<span class="smaller">HERE AND HEREAFTER</span></h2> - -</div> - -<h3><span class="smcap">War</span></h3> - -<p>War is as a storm of the clouds—a human -storm. Dark frowning clouds, commotion -and strife, and outbursts of thunder—and -before the threatening disaster we tremble, -and hope and fear.</p> - -<p>It is the changing of the Universe, this mighty -upheaval within nations, and there is the -impulse of Destiny in it. As a storm will -clear the atmosphere, afterwards there will be -sunshine and better things. Not for to-day, -and the present, is this warring of nations, but -for the future, and the wisdom of those who -in generations will follow us.</p> - -<p>Was not the world growing fast into a -plaything? Something in the form of a pleasure-giving -empty bubble, growing larger, floating -uncertainly, the surface substance—that which -is visible to the eyes and mind—transparent, -and weak, and unworthy of the clear and -vigorous world from which it had risen, brightly -coloured, and to which it was fast descending, -colourless and vague. As a bubble will burst, -so was a climax imminent.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_226"></a>[226]</span></p> - -<p>Does not war, this drastic liberation of opposite -forces, hold for us a lesson? Are we not -passing through the throes of upheaval to -change the mind of our race from vanity to -wisdom? The world to-day is steeped in blood -and sorrow; and all the suffering would be in -vain, were there not hope that the world will -arise in the end sobered, and humbled, and -eager to live anew.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">War Material</span></h3> - -<div class="sidenote">THOUGHTS FROM THE FRONT</div> - -<p>Is not to enter war to enter an arena of -great possibilities, wherein a great game may -be played, or a bad game? but, in any case, -it is so closely and seriously fraught with -terrible issues that it bares the character of -men to the very bone. And there are many -characters—not one character, but a thousand -characters; some great, some small, some -active, some dormant, but out of all such elements -it is a wise man’s wish to weld a universal -organisation of strength; and an ignorant -man’s folly to look at no other ambition but -his own.</p> - -<p>And therein lie the factors of all troubles -of organisation, and the tremendous internal -difficulties of army or national construction. -One man—or body of men—may plan to build -well, but can only succeed if the material -is good: if the material is bad, there results -failure, with credit neither to the builder nor the -material. And human character is material—the -most delicate material great builders may<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_227"></a>[227]</span> -know and direct, in war, or commerce—just so -many human beings prone to be directed so -far, and for the rest to rise or fall, in the world’s -estimate, as our characters decide. But out -of this mass of human character, out of these -manifold qualities of a multitude, is formed the -final whole which goes to mark the characteristics -of an era of history, and a national -greatness or littleness.</p> - -<p class="tb">Like unto axe-men felling trees in a forest -is the destructive hand of warfare. The land -is depopulated of its finest timber, and that -which will take a lifetime to replace.</p> - -<p>Wholesale destruction reaches far beyond -the actual crime of killing. It breaks the -evolution of growth, retards or destroys the -life-history of a species, and leaves, through -the age it occurs in, an irreplaceable blank -in the population and wealth of a country.</p> - -<p>This is not the first war, nor has anyone in -the present authority to state that it is the -last. If war and the felling of our forests -must be, it is well to cling stoutly to the old -features of the race and cultivate, in place of -the fallen giants, clean-limbed sturdy saplings -of full-worthy quality to serve the generations -of the future.</p> - -<p>It will concern us greatly in the future to -cultivate a race strong enough to endure the -buffeting of great elements, and true and -straight as the best of the race of the past. -For the country will want a race that is fine-grained<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_228"></a>[228]</span> -and sure-rooted, and fit to stand up -against the stress of the many storms of a -restless world’s brewing.</p> - -<p class="tb">How little we are, we pawns of a universe: -how far-reaching is war in the destruction of -our plans! At the beginning of life it has -picked us up in its whirlwind, from every stage -of life, and left our poor ambitious castles in -the air, tiny long-forgotten dust-heaps on the -plain.</p> - -<p>And yet we laugh and hide our sorrow, and -go on, on our new-found task, our future now -no farther ahead than we can see, and trusting -in God that all will come right in the end.</p> - -<p class="tb">We learn at the front and at home that -nothing else matters, that nothing really counts -in the greatness of a nation but clean, unshaken, -sacrificing purpose, and ceaseless -industry: worthless are all our little deceits -and vanities, and greed of personal gain.</p> - -<p>That nation will find religion and prosperity -which holds on to the deeper lessons of war, -long after war is over. To forget those lessons -will be to sin against God and conscience, and -the great silent grave-yard of our dead, who -died that their nation might live.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">NEED OF INDUSTRY</div> - -<p class="tb">Industry will greatly concern us after the -war. On that will our nation depend for its -solid existence hereafter, as it does to-day, on -the activities of our war-worn, long-enduring<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_229"></a>[229]</span> -men-at-arms. We should be glad that there -will be much to do, for work is a fine thing. It -is sincere in its object—it accomplishes, and it -satisfies the strongest trait in our character: -that wish of all men to establish a stable place -of existence where they can support an acknowledged -standing of manhood.</p> - -<p>Had we not to provide for ourselves, the -chief care of our lives would be taken away -from us. In idleness we would become brainless -and degenerate.</p> - -<p>Nature has decreed her purposeful laws of all -existence. Everything that lives must industriously -seek to find its means of livelihood, -and its means of defence against its -enemies. For instance, in wild nature, do not -birds and animals without cease spend all -their lives providing themselves with food, and -defending themselves against storms and their -enemies? In similar manner so must we; -so must all things.</p> - -<p class="tb">There are centuries of Time.</p> - -<p>The World is very, very old, and a mighty -universe in which a man is but an infinitesimal -activity of creation. After all, in spite of the -breathless, concentrated ambitions of a lifetime, -we are a little people and we only live on -earth for a very little while. Let us then, -above all, make our fireside, and that of our -neighbours, as pleasant as we can. For love -and beauty have a powerful influence to -promote the better religion, the stronger<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_230"></a>[230]</span> -manhood of our race, and it is those intimate -characteristics, wisely planted, that may take -root and grow, and be everlasting long after -we have travelled over the line and are gone.</p> - -<p class="tb">It is sometimes our misfortune to misunderstand -the scene or the life around us. Forgetting -our humility, it is often our temperament -to find fault, rather than reason, with the -picture we view; and fault-finding causes -uneasiness, pain, and strife.</p> - -<p>Perhaps our first care should be to perfect -ourselves, and, next, to harmonise with the -endeavours of our neighbours. It would be -well to go pleasantly forward to find the best -that is in anything—to look for the little -gleams of beauty which throw light across -most pictures, no matter how dark the background.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">IMPULSES OF CHARACTER</div> - -<p class="tb">Some men, like a giant moth in its full beauty -of life when it breaks from its chrysalis cell, -fail to accomplish anything before they are -lured to the bright lights of the lamps of civilisation. -Like an unfortunate moth to a lamp, -it is their fate to be inevitably drawn towards -the attraction, to seek an elusive something, -and a possible happiness. Persistently they -damage their manhood and their strength in -trying to reach a luminous star within the -radiant unattainable circle. Again and again -they return to flutter madly to their doom; -and have no wish to stay away. Until, at<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_231"></a>[231]</span> -last—unless the will and mind overmaster -the weakness, and they go soberly away—the -body drops to the darkness, wasted and broken, -and lies seriously damaged or dead. Ah, the -pity of it!—the sadness! There lies a creature -of unknown possibilities come to untimely -grief.</p> - -<p>Some men have no luck. Why are the strong -impulses of a character born in a creature -without the one great saving grace of control? -It is the mystery of life, and it is impossible -to criticise justly the man or the ultimate end. -It would be wise and kind to be very generous -to all acts and to all characters, since it is, -above all else, “Destiny that shapes our ends.” -The moth could not damage its wings if the -lamps were not there, and alight, and yet for -generations they have hung in their places by -the custom of our race, if not by the will of -our God.</p> - -<p class="tb">Judge no man hastily or harshly. Know a -man long enough and, in most cases, you will -know him, in some phase of life, do an act of -nobleness.</p> - -<p>Environment has a great and often a deciding -influence on man’s behaviour; and sometimes -it is a man’s misfortune never to have had a -chance.</p> - -<p class="tb">Justice is not so straightforward as it seems. -To bring blame home to the true offender, or -the true origin of offence, is often a task beyond<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_232"></a>[232]</span> -human breadth of mind and human skill. -We attempt, as best we can, what is God’s -work—He who sees and knows all things.</p> - -<p>It is not always what appears on the surface -that really counts; it is when the storms of -battle are at their bitterest that the true -materials are found out, and the pure metal -most praised.</p> - -<p>How thoroughly in us is instilled the knowledge -of right and wrong! How clearly we -know our wickedness when we err! That alone -should be sufficient to prove that there is a -God and a sound foundation to religion.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">WAR’S SCHOOLING</div> - -<p class="tb">Sleepless night—the bare hard ground an -awkward resting-place, and our look-out on -the outer edges of outer civilisation. Over on -the left of camp a tireless, cheerful youngster, -with spirit undaunted, is holding the long, -dreary watches through the night. Once he -was a dandy-dressed youth of a great city. -He has come through a lot since then, he has -learned his lesson and his position in a grim -world of naked realities. He has risen from -nothing to become a man—stripped of the fine -clothes of his drifting butterfly days, and -aware now of how little they were. For him -the war has held more than loyalty to his -country, for it held for him, in its own time, and -in its own way, the finding of himself.</p> - -<p>A boy changed to a man, and the man seeing -a world that is not as he built it. He has -sighed and fretted for lost dreams, but he<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_233"></a>[233]</span> -knows the battle-ground of Life’s conflict must -be in the arena before him, and, headstrong -and vigorous, he accepts the challenge against -strange weapons and foes, and is of the stuff -to prove that he has grown to be a worthy -defender of his race.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Routine</span></h3> - -<p>At your post there are some days when mists -are in your eyes, and you cannot clearly see; -there are days when mountains must be climbed -with aching limbs and burdened back; and -there are days when you are humbled in -wretchedness, and glad of the kindliness of -natives. Those days we all experience, but, -thank God, there are days when the sky is blue -and sunshine is in everything, and it is good to -be alive.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Character and Command</span></h3> - -<p>Eighty per cent. of the rank and file are good -fellows, glad to do their best if treated with -consideration, humanity, and a little love. -They are all very human, and you cannot prevent -them from thinking in a human way. -What they expect and desire is a strong command -that lays down a just and reasonable -order of things, and carries them through -without confusion and change. To supply -such command is often difficult—for, again, -it is human nature that has to be dealt with.</p> - -<p>Perhaps thirty per cent. of young officers are<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_234"></a>[234]</span> -in part ignorant or forgetful of their trust and -its bearing on good or bad organisation. They -are sometimes inclined to imagine themselves -set on a pedestal above the rank and file, -spending more thought than should be on -rivalling one another for rank, and stylishness, -and a well-catered mess, while their men go -forgotten, and left to look after themselves.</p> - -<p>One may truly say that one does not always -find strong men in large majorities down the -list of young officers of a battalion—men who -have a prolonged determination and ambition -to endure the hard fight for a complete, wholesome, -and wholly dangerous and united force. -Here and there one may pick out the strong -men, who never lose their military interest and -who will brave anything, and then look at the -remaining line which clearly shows, in the -chain which is to bind the whole of a battalion, -some weakness of strength, and the full extent -of our failing.</p> - -<p>It is a chain of some usefulness, thank God, -but not capable, with its weaknesses, of everlasting -service, nor as strong as it might be if -time and material had allowed of a faultless -welding.</p> - -<p>By nature it is impossible to find all men of -equal resolution, but at the same time we of -some means and education are often a thoughtless -people inclined to travel the line of least -resistance in a difficult, self-seeking world. -And that is where, in part, the fault springs -from—the country from which we draw our<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_235"></a>[235]</span> -stock has falteringly halted or fallen back in -producing men of refinement and chivalry, -and has encouraged in its stead a temperament -of peculiar self-set vanity.</p> - -<p>In a strong commander, a man who is loved -by his men, you will always find there is refinement -and generosity and bravery, and little -selfish vanity—whether he be gentle-born or -not. And look on the men who play the clean, -straight game in any field of life, and one cannot -fail to see that they are loved of all true-minded -humanity. It is, they know, the only -game to play, the only game that wins a mighty -battle.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Leadership</span></h3> - -<p>The control of an ordered parade is a simple -thing, and for the drill sergeant. But do not -let us confuse the drill and discipline of the -barrack square, which is something of an -ornament and impressive, with the state of -mind and aspect of a vital battle.</p> - -<p>Gifted leadership is that which takes hold -of and controls disorder—not order. No matter -what we have read and have preached about -discipline, the eternal fact which human nature -will put before you on the awesome field is -that we are of many tempers, that all has not -been calculated or understood, and that Fate -or Circumstance has, in part, destroyed the -plan so carefully arranged before setting out.</p> - -<p>Out of such a situation nothing can lift the -force, that is confronted with difficulties, but<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_236"></a>[236]</span> -quick thought, speedy action, and sure command. -And that is the leadership so hard to -obtain.</p> - -<p>Men essentially want strength in their leaders. -They will go through fire and brimstone for a -good leader, and never be at a loss. Is it not -a mistake to rely too much on discipline as a -factor of strength? May it not be misleading -to judgment of fighting strength? Drill and -discipline are somewhat automatic and ornamental, -and it is just that surface which is -rudely swept aside in the first shock of battle.</p> - -<p>Drill and discipline, in moderation, are good, -but one should not overdo it or overvalue it. -Husband the high spirit of youth as long as -one can—it is the spirit that fights a winning -battle.</p> - -<p>Above all it should be remembered that -soldiers are not schoolboys, or mere tools, but -men, often with high-strung feelings, who have -put their lives at the disposal of their country. -The British soldier is essentially a practical -man; he has, in peace time, been an engineer, -a boiler-maker, an electrician, a mason, a -farmer, or in a score of other trades, and he -does not easily lose the character of his long -training; nor should we expect it. He wants -to be considered seriously, and as a man. He -wants to do his best, within reason, and, given -a fair chance, he never fails you. And, finally, -he considers he has the right, at all times, to -be the keeper of his own soul.</p> - -<p>Leadership imposes a wide knowledge of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_237"></a>[237]</span> -human nature, and a wide responsibility; -but tact, great patience, and a durable enthusiasm -will carry one far on an undertaking -that is full of difficulties.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Criticism</span></h3> - -<p>A soldier said to me the other day: “I have -been fifteen months out here—I may be fifteen -more—I may be shot to-morrow.”</p> - -<p>To him it was a commonplace remark -without a note of complaint. He merely wished -to show he had had time to think of the subject -he was discussing from a serious point of view.</p> - -<p>And he had been discussing the folly, the -uselessness, the narrowness, the meanness of -some of the newspaper and political criticisms -so rife in his home papers—the home that now -he passionately hoped would emerge from -bloody battle-fields purified, serious, content, -and aged to a greater wisdom.</p> - -<p>He thought some journalism at home and, -incidentally, politics had been, since the date -of war, very disappointing. War had brought -the golden opportunity, while the State was -in trouble and distress, to raise the standard -of thought to high Idealism. Yet had it carried -on, on the whole, as before, the chief forte -criticism; sometimes uttered in weak alarm -or blundering foreboding—always in attack or -defence of a narrow circumstance.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">DISTURBING CRITICISM</div> - -<p>And, having warmed to his subject, the soldier -went on to condemn criticism—and his arguments -were these:</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_238"></a>[238]</span></p> - -<p>There is far too much freedom of field -given to fractious, unfounded criticism. Criticism -is nearly always, in some aspect, unjust; -certainly it is always unkind. For it -aims at striking a down-felling blow while it -hits but one surface of the many-sided views -of complex humanity. The surface that is -struck at may be bruised or even destroyed, -if the blow be straight, but there are others -of the many surfaces which will merely recoil -and revolt, with cause, against the blow. And -there are times when the blow misses the mark -altogether, and revolt is complete from all sides.</p> - -<p>Criticism can only be justified in two forms: -when it condemns a great wrong or a grave -deceit—and then we should see to it that it is -our law, not criticism, that deals out judgment -with certain understanding; and, in the other -case, when it is uttered in good spirit with -helpful purpose—and then it were more rightly -called advice. Surely it is wrong entirely to -condemn, in bitter and unsubstantiated speech, -the thoughts and purpose of another body -which dares to see a phase of life, or government, -in other light, and with another brain. -Were it not far better to prove by deed, by -clear-sighted example—not merely by words—the -value of thought? And, if the opponent -be a man, he will come to thank you, and both -views, in the process of discussion, will become -enlightened and instructive.</p> - -<p>If he is not ‘a man’ his scheme of things -opposed to yours should crumble away if our<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_239"></a>[239]</span> -laws are right, and concur with the common -law of decay which decrees that ill-fed roots -cannot live and flourish. Does any man do -right to sit on a stool at home looking for -trouble in the machinery of the nation, when -millions toil in endless endeavour, his object -to descry weakness or fault, or to direct to his -temple of ideas, while he raises no active hand -to prove his knowledge or his understanding? -Is he certain of his usefulness? Does his position -as a man of letters entitle him, by self-appointment, -to be king of people? Is there -not a more noble, if harder, method of reasoning -a cause to greatness? If we are to be truly -great we must see the main views together, -listening to all from every human standpoint—and -framing the final law with certain wisdom—for -the greatness of nations must spring -from absolute unity of purpose, and with an -honesty near to the goodness of God. And -is it not by example, by action, and thereafter -with broader vision, by help and advice, that -mankind should build together their fortresses -of strength against the battles of to-day and -of the future? Have you seen a grim figure, -grimly occupied during an action, defending -his yard of trench—which is to him his Britain’s -all—and dealing death with certain purpose -and unshakable resolution? He has nothing -to say—only by deed can he hope to hold this -little yard for Britain’s honour.</p> - -<p>He has no need for criticism. He has risen -beyond any fault-finding or narrowness.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_240"></a>[240]</span></p> - -<p>He may live but to-day, but he lives those -hours for the good and the greatness of his -motherland.</p> - -<p>Should he criticise, if he comes through, -methinks his words will be measured with a -new seriousness, and with warmth of comradeship -more than with enmity and bitterness.</p> - -<p>And does not that common picture show -the nobleness of <i>action</i>, and its accomplishment—while -criticism, ignorant and powerless, is -blown back into the four winds ashamed of its -fragility?</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Alone</span></h3> - -<p>I have been a lone sentry many nights now -in this distant outpost, and, like a single plover -seeking out the flock, I could utter his weird, -wild cry of loneliness. Love is surely the -strongest motive in our lives, and ah! it is -cruel, and cold, and barren without any of -it.... Yet I carry on, though sometimes -losing control of wariness and pitching among -the far-off fields of dream-land in search of -the old home ... then back to this lone, wild -beat as before.</p> - -<p>Is it an untamed spirit beating its life out -because it has not the saving faculty of control? -or is it lost for a time on unbeaten tracks, out -of the course that it was intended to keep?</p> - -<p class="tb">The virtue of life is not in learning to get -what you want, but in learning to do without -what you want; and a soldier may have to do -without everything.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_241"></a>[241]</span> -A motto is no good if it is only an ornament -on the wall. If we live up to it, then only -does it become worth while.</p> - -<p class="tb">There is one thing greater than strength -that will carry one far, and that is endurance.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">UNDERLYING SADNESS</div> - -<p class="tb">It is the fate of youth, in simple trustfulness, -to venture forth on the broad highway of life -a dreaming idealist; and to return, if the wars -go against him, with deep-cut scars and bowed -head. He knows that there are plans made -otherwise than his, and that they will remain -unalterable, while he must break his spirit to -change, and self-denial, and humbleness.</p> - -<p>There is something of bitterness in the -struggle, but it is that bitterness which makes -for deeper experience and ultimate strength, -though underlain with haunting sadness.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_242"></a>[242]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="INDEX">INDEX</h2> - -</div> - -<ul> - -<li class="ifrst">Aden, <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Aeroplanes, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>, <a href="#Page_114">114</a></li> - -<li class="indx">African sounds, <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Africa’s vastness, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_139">139</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ambushed patrol, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_28">28</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ammunition abandoned, <a href="#Page_127">127</a>, <a href="#Page_132">132</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Animals dying, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">exhausted, <a href="#Page_91">91</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ants, <a href="#Page_167">167</a>, <a href="#Page_222">222</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Armour-plate tests, <a href="#Page_111">111</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Army, a mixed, <a href="#Page_65">65</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Aruscha road, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>, <a href="#Page_74">74</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Askaris surrender, <a href="#Page_151">151</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Bagomayo, <a href="#Page_124">124</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Baluchis, <a href="#Page_66">66</a>, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>, <a href="#Page_165">165</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Bay of Biscay, <a href="#Page_6">6</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Bayonet charge, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>, <a href="#Page_188">188</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Bees, <a href="#Page_222">222</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Behobeho, <a href="#Page_166">166</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Belgian Force, <a href="#Page_124">124</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Beves, Gen., <a href="#Page_164">164</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Big game, <a href="#Page_202">202</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Bird life in East Africa, <a href="#Page_206">206-207</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Bird migration, north-bound, <a href="#Page_10">10</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Birds collected, <a href="#Page_209">209-215</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Birds of special interest, <a href="#Page_216">216</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Boat-hawking vendors, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Bridges destroyed, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>, <a href="#Page_124">124</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Bridges, repairing, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>, <a href="#Page_122">122</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Brits, Gen., mounted troops, <a href="#Page_118">118</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Buck jump, great, <a href="#Page_89">89</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Buffalo, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>, <a href="#Page_92">92</a>, <a href="#Page_203">203</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Buiko, delayed at, <a href="#Page_95">95</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Bukoba, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Bukubuku, large camp at, <a href="#Page_130">130</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Bush foils decisive combat, <a href="#Page_139">139</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Bush-war difficulties, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_138">138</a>, <a href="#Page_184">184</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Camp routine, <a href="#Page_36">36</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Camp shelters, <a href="#Page_141">141</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cape Town, rest at, <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Casualties, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>, <a href="#Page_194">194</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Casualties at Kahe, <a href="#Page_84">84</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Central railway, marching on, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Central railway falls, <a href="#Page_124">124</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Character and command, <a href="#Page_233">233</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Character, impulses of, <a href="#Page_230">230</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Clifford strikes, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Climate of intense heat, <a href="#Page_34">34</a>, <a href="#Page_114">114</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Coaling, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Colony lost to Germans, <a href="#Page_124">124</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Convoy sail, <a href="#Page_4">4</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Country beautiful, Ulugúru Mts., <a href="#Page_127">127</a>, <a href="#Page_154">154</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Country, cultivated, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>, <a href="#Page_125">125</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Country terribly unhealthy, <a href="#Page_197">197</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Criticism, disturbing, <a href="#Page_237">237</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Crocodile shot, <a href="#Page_141">141</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cultivation, native, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>, <a href="#Page_146">146</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cunliffe, Gen., <a href="#Page_165">165</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Currency, doubtful German, <a href="#Page_107">107</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Dakawa, <a href="#Page_165">165</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Dar-es-Salaam surrenders, <a href="#Page_124">124</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Dark days, <a href="#Page_195">195</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Dartnell, Lieut., V.C., <a href="#Page_19">19</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Daylight, hours of, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Defu River, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Desert, march through forsaken, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Dik-dik, <a href="#Page_102">102</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Doves, numerous, <a href="#Page_146">146</a>, <a href="#Page_206">206</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Dress, typical, <a href="#Page_45">45</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Driscoll, Colonel, <a href="#Page_3">3</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Driving off cattle, enemy, <a href="#Page_44">44</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Duiker, Harvey’s, <a href="#Page_111">111</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Dunthumi River, <a href="#Page_133">133</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Dust, marching in thick, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">East Africa, nearing, <a href="#Page_15">15</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Egyptian kite, <a href="#Page_15">15</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Eland, <a href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a href="#Page_203">203</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Elephants, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>, <a href="#Page_203">203</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Elephant tusks, <a href="#Page_160">160</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Engare Naniuki, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Entrenchments, Ruhungu, <a href="#Page_120">120</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Fever, more cases, <a href="#Page_141">141</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Fires not allowed, <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li> - -<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_243"></a>[243]</span>Fly pests, <a href="#Page_220">220</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Fly, tsetse, <a href="#Page_221">221</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Food at low ebb, <a href="#Page_149">149</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Food, bartering for native, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>, <a href="#Page_112">112</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Food, German, reported short, <a href="#Page_151">151</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Food, hunting game for, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>, <a href="#Page_133">133</a>, <a href="#Page_143">143</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Forces dwindling, <a href="#Page_113">113</a>, <a href="#Page_150">150</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Freebooters, German, <a href="#Page_51">51</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Frontiersmen, <a href="#Page_2">2</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Frontier skirmishes, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Frontier stations, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Front, four-mile, <a href="#Page_187">187</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Front, nine-mile, <a href="#Page_177">177</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Front, twenty-mile, <a href="#Page_164">164</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Fuga hills, <a href="#Page_166">166</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Fusiliers, 25th Royal, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>, <a href="#Page_177">177</a>, <a href="#Page_193">193</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Game, big, <a href="#Page_202">202</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Geraragua River, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Gerenuk antelope, <a href="#Page_101">101</a></li> - -<li class="indx">German askaris surrender, <a href="#Page_151">151</a></li> - -<li class="indx">“German Bridge” engagement, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></li> - -<li class="indx">German East Africa, area of, <a href="#Page_139">139</a></li> - -<li class="indx">German East Africa threatened, <a href="#Page_65">65</a></li> - -<li class="indx">German freebooters, <a href="#Page_51">51</a></li> - -<li class="indx">German natives hired, <a href="#Page_133">133</a></li> - -<li class="indx">German paper rupees, <a href="#Page_107">107</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Gibraltar, <a href="#Page_7">7</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Gilham, Lieut., goes hunting, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Gitu, <a href="#Page_105">105</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Goanese, <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Gold Coast Regiment, <a href="#Page_129">129</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Greeks, <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Guaso Nyero Valley, <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Guerilla warfare, Bukoba, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Guinea-fowl, <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Guns, heavy, stranded, <a href="#Page_164">164</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Guns, Koenigsberg, captured, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>, <a href="#Page_166">166</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Gun-teams, sickness depletes, <a href="#Page_142">142</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Handeni neighbourhood, <a href="#Page_106">106</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Hannyngton’s, Gen., Brigade, <a href="#Page_118">118</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Hartebeeste shot, <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Heat, climate of intensive, <a href="#Page_34">34</a>, <a href="#Page_147">147</a>, <a href="#Page_168">168</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Hen, pet white, <a href="#Page_112">112</a>, <a href="#Page_115">115</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Hill country, impassable, <a href="#Page_119">119</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Himo River, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Hippopotamus, <a href="#Page_204">204</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Horses dying, <a href="#Page_73">73</a>, <a href="#Page_108">108</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Hoskins, Gen., C.-in-C., <a href="#Page_172">172</a>, <a href="#Page_176">176</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Hot springs, <a href="#Page_158">158</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Houses inhabited, <a href="#Page_74">74</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Hunting at Kajiado, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Hunting game for food, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Hyenas in camp, <a href="#Page_143">143</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Indian Ocean, <a href="#Page_15">15</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Industry, need of, <a href="#Page_229">229</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Information, natives give, <a href="#Page_130">130</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ivory, <a href="#Page_160">160</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Jungle, cruel-fanged, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Kahe, enemy strength at, <a href="#Page_84">84</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Kahe, hard fighting at, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Kajiado, hunting at, <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Kanga-Kilindi range, <a href="#Page_118">118</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Kasanga, <a href="#Page_154">154</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Kasigau, occupied by enemy, <a href="#Page_42">42</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Kavirondos, <a href="#Page_202">202</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Kearton, Cherry, <a href="#Page_2">2</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Kibambawe, <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Kibo, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Kibosho, <a href="#Page_87">87</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Kiderengwe, <a href="#Page_166">166</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Kihunsa ridge, <a href="#Page_129">129</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Kikuyus, <a href="#Page_202">202</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Kilimanjaro, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Kilossa, <a href="#Page_124">124</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Kilwa, <a href="#Page_176">176</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Kilwa column, position of, <a href="#Page_179">179</a></li> - -<li class="indx">King’s African Rifles, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>, <a href="#Page_144">144</a>, <a href="#Page_177">177</a>, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>, <a href="#Page_193">193</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Kipanya ridge, <a href="#Page_187">187</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Kiruru, <a href="#Page_166">166</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Kissaki, activities, <a href="#Page_149">149</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Kissaki camp, <a href="#Page_140">140</a>, <a href="#Page_144">144</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Kissaki, enemy retiring to, <a href="#Page_130">130</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Kisumu, <a href="#Page_19">19</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Kite, Egyptian, <a href="#Page_15">15</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Kitulo Hill, <a href="#Page_176">176</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Koodoo, Lesser, <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Kraals, native, <a href="#Page_146">146</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Kraut, Major, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>, <a href="#Page_189">189</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Krupp gun, small, <a href="#Page_111">111</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Kwa-Beku, <a href="#Page_117">117</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Kwa-Direma, <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Lake Natron at dawn, <a href="#Page_55">55</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Lake steamship craft, <a href="#Page_20">20</a></li> - -<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_244"></a>[244]</span>Lake Victoria Nyanza, <a href="#Page_19">19</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Landing effected, Bukoba, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Leadership, <a href="#Page_235">235</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Lembeni outflanked, <a href="#Page_90">90</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Lindi Bay, <a href="#Page_174">174</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Lindi, <a href="#Page_175">175</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Lindi, return to, <a href="#Page_185">185</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Lions, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>, <a href="#Page_205">205</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Locusts, <a href="#Page_34">34</a></li> - -<li class="indx">London, departure from, <a href="#Page_3">3</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Longido west camp, <a href="#Page_64">64</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Long-range guns, enemy, <a href="#Page_130">130</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Loyal North Lancashires, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Luăle Liwăle River, <a href="#Page_121">121</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Lukigura River, march on, <a href="#Page_109">109</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Lukuledi River, <a href="#Page_176">176</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Luxuries (?), <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Lyall, Gen., <a href="#Page_166">166</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Machine guns, death-dealing, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Magali Ridge, <a href="#Page_127">127</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Maize, <a href="#Page_146">146</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Makindu, <a href="#Page_109">109</a>, <a href="#Page_113">113</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Makindu, advance beyond, <a href="#Page_118">118</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Maktau, reconnaissance, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Malaria, victim of, <a href="#Page_123">123</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Malta, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mango, tree and fruit, <a href="#Page_145">145</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Masai, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Masai, respect white chief, <a href="#Page_62">62</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Massimbani track, <a href="#Page_116">116</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Massassi, <a href="#Page_197">197</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Material, war, <a href="#Page_226">226</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mawensi, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mayani, <a href="#Page_187">187</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mbuyuni, back to, <a href="#Page_87">87</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mediterranean Sea, <a href="#Page_7">7</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mgata, <a href="#Page_129">129</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mgeta river front, <a href="#Page_140">140</a>, <a href="#Page_144">144</a>, <a href="#Page_164">164</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mice plague, <a href="#Page_223">223</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Millet, <a href="#Page_146">146</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mingoyo, <a href="#Page_184">184</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mkalamo, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mkalinso, <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mkwaya, <a href="#Page_177">177</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mohambika, <a href="#Page_184">184</a>, <a href="#Page_187">187</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mombasa, <a href="#Page_15">15</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mombo, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Monitors at Lindi, <a href="#Page_177">177</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Monsoon, South-west, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Morogoro occupied, <a href="#Page_123">123</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Moschi, <a href="#Page_74">74</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Moschi area all clear, <a href="#Page_86">86</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mosquitoes, <a href="#Page_221">221</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mountain pass partly blocked, <a href="#Page_128">128</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mounted troops, Gen. Brits, <a href="#Page_118">118</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mpala, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_133">133</a>, <a href="#Page_203">203</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mpapua, <a href="#Page_124">124</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mrweka, <a href="#Page_184">184</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mssente, <a href="#Page_116">116</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mtanda plateau, <a href="#Page_187">187</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mules dying, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mules, Somali, <a href="#Page_44">44</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mules, South American, <a href="#Page_67">67</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mwúhe River, <a href="#Page_122">122</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mwuha River, <a href="#Page_131">131</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Nagasseni, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Narunyu, <a href="#Page_191">191</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Native cultivation, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>, <a href="#Page_146">146</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Native kraals, <a href="#Page_146">146</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Natives fearful of shell-fire, <a href="#Page_114">114</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Natives, German, hired, <a href="#Page_133">133</a>, <a href="#Page_201">201</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Natives of East Africa, <a href="#Page_201">201</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Naval gun captured, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>, <a href="#Page_166">166</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Neuralia, troopship, <a href="#Page_4">4</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Nguru mountains, <a href="#Page_109">109</a>, <a href="#Page_114">114</a>, <a href="#Page_118">118</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Nguruman mountains, <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Nigerian regiment, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>, <a href="#Page_198">198</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Night attack by enemy, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>, <a href="#Page_194">194</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Night landings, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_179">179</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Night scouting, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Nkessa’s, <a href="#Page_133">133</a>, <a href="#Page_134">134</a></li> - -<li class="indx">North Pole Star, <a href="#Page_13">13</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Observation post destroyed, <a href="#Page_129">129</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Offensive, commencement of, <a href="#Page_68">68</a>, <a href="#Page_174">174</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Officers, <a href="#Page_233">233</a></li> - -<li class="indx">O’Grady, Gen., <a href="#Page_177">177</a>, <a href="#Page_198">198</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ol Doinyo Orok, <a href="#Page_32">32</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Operations against Narunyu fail, <a href="#Page_119">119</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Operations in Ulugúru Mts., <a href="#Page_125">125</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Outpost, Maktau, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Outpost scattered, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Outram, George, <a href="#Page_3">3</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Oxen dying, <a href="#Page_108">108</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Pangani River, column leaves, <a href="#Page_105">105</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pangani River, down the, <a href="#Page_88">88</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Parcels from home, <a href="#Page_38">38</a>, <a href="#Page_148">148</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pare mountains, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Patrol ambushed, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_28">28</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Patrols, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Plantations, coffee, <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Plantations, rubber, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>, <a href="#Page_176">176</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Plants collected, <a href="#Page_218">218</a></li> - -<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_245"></a>[245]</span>Plymouth Dock, <a href="#Page_4">4</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Port Said, <a href="#Page_10">10</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Punjabis, <a href="#Page_66">66</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Raiders, heading off, <a href="#Page_52">52</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Railway, central, falls, <a href="#Page_124">124</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Railway protection, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Railway to Tanga clear, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Rains, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>, <a href="#Page_164">164</a>, <a href="#Page_172">172</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ramazani, Selous’s gun-bearer, <a href="#Page_170">170</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Rank and file, <a href="#Page_233">233</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Rations, Gen. Sheppard on, <a href="#Page_147">147</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Rations very short, <a href="#Page_96">96</a>, <a href="#Page_104">104</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Rearguard skirmish, <a href="#Page_72">72</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Rearguards harass advance, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>, <a href="#Page_131">131</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Reconnaissance flanking Ruhungu, <a href="#Page_115">115</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Reconnaissance, Maktau, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Red Sea, <a href="#Page_13">13</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Reedbuck, <a href="#Page_133">133</a>, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>, <a href="#Page_203">203</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Rhinoceros, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>, <a href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a href="#Page_204">204</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Rhodesians, 2nd, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Routine in camp, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_36">36</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Routing the raiders, <a href="#Page_60">60</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Rovuma River, Germans cross, <a href="#Page_199">199</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Royal Fusiliers, 25th, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>, <a href="#Page_177">177</a>, <a href="#Page_193">193</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Rubber plantations, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>, <a href="#Page_176">176</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Rufiji, enemy retreat to, <a href="#Page_170">170</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Rufiji, postponed advance to, <a href="#Page_144">144</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Rufiji River, north of, <a href="#Page_125">125</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ruhungu, operations fail, <a href="#Page_119">119</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Russongo River, <a href="#Page_121">121</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ruwu River (Kahe front), <a href="#Page_78">78</a>, <a href="#Page_82">82</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ruwu River (Ulugúru Mts.), <a href="#Page_127">127</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ryan, Martin, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>, <a href="#Page_158">158</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Saidi-bin-Mohammed, <a href="#Page_43">43</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Sanja River, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Scouting, night, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Selous, F. C., <a href="#Page_2">2</a>, <a href="#Page_162">162</a>, <a href="#Page_169">169</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Sheep hills, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Shelled by naval guns, <a href="#Page_92">92</a>, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>, <a href="#Page_196">196</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Shell-fire, prolonged, <a href="#Page_114">114</a>, <a href="#Page_196">196</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Sheppard, Gen., <a href="#Page_93">93</a>, <a href="#Page_106">106</a>, <a href="#Page_147">147</a>, <a href="#Page_165">165</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Shombole Mountain, <a href="#Page_56">56</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Sickness depletes gun-teams, <a href="#Page_142">142</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Sickness, food shortage causes, <a href="#Page_38">38</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Single-handed adventure, <a href="#Page_44">44</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Sleep in mud and water, <a href="#Page_85">85</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Sleep lost and overtaxed, <a href="#Page_89">89</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Smuts, Gen., C.-in-C., <a href="#Page_68">68</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Smuts, Gen., pressing forward, <a href="#Page_95">95</a>, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>, <a href="#Page_121">121</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Snakes, <a href="#Page_223">223</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Snowfall on Kilimanjaro, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Soko-Nassai River, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Soldiers underfed, underclothed, <a href="#Page_146">146</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Somali mules, <a href="#Page_44">44</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Sounds, African, <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li> - -<li class="indx">South African troops coming, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Southern Cross, <a href="#Page_28">28</a></li> - -<li class="indx">South Pare mountains, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ssangeni, <a href="#Page_106">106</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ssonjo, <a href="#Page_108">108</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Starving natives, <a href="#Page_196">196</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Stations, frontier, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Steamship craft, lake, <a href="#Page_20">20</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Stores abandoned, <a href="#Page_132">132</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Storks, <a href="#Page_34">34</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Suez Canal, <a href="#Page_11">11</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Sunburn, extreme, <a href="#Page_169">169</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Supply difficulties, adding to, <a href="#Page_126">126</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Surrender, Tafel’s force, <a href="#Page_199">199</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Swahili-speaking tribes, <a href="#Page_200">200</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Tabora, Belgian force occupy, <a href="#Page_124">124</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Tafel’s force surrender, <a href="#Page_199">199</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Tandamuti, attack fails on, <a href="#Page_187">187</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Tandamuti front clear, <a href="#Page_191">191</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Tanga clear, railway to, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Taveta base, <a href="#Page_88">88</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Telegraph wires cut, <a href="#Page_150">150</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Thorn trees, <a href="#Page_98">98</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Tieta hills, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Tobacco, out of, <a href="#Page_148">148</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Trackless country, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Tragic end, <a href="#Page_199">199</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Transport difficulties, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>, <a href="#Page_113">113</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Transport attacked, <a href="#Page_189">189</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Trees, thorn, <a href="#Page_98">98</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Trolley line, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>, <a href="#Page_180">180</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Troopship, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_5">5</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Tsetse fly, <a href="#Page_221">221</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Tulo, <a href="#Page_132">132</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Tulo, delayed at, <a href="#Page_140">140</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Uganda railway, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_42">42</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ulugúru mountains, operations in, <a href="#Page_125">125</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ulugúru mountains, seeking road, <a href="#Page_154">154</a></li> - -<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_246"></a>[246]</span>Unhealthy area, a very, <a href="#Page_140">140</a>, <a href="#Page_197">197</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Usambara railway, enemy leaving, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Usambara railway, west of, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Van Deventer’s, Gen., column, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>, <a href="#Page_124">124</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Van Deventer, Gen., C.-in-C., <a href="#Page_176">176</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Victoria Nyanza Lake, <a href="#Page_19">19</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Voi Railway mined, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Von Lettow crosses Rovuma River, <a href="#Page_199">199</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Von Lettow, forces under, <a href="#Page_176">176</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Wami River, fight at, <a href="#Page_122">122</a></li> - -<li class="indx">War material, <a href="#Page_226">226</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Watch-dog’s duties, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Water, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>, <a href="#Page_194">194</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Waterbuck, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>, <a href="#Page_203">203</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Waterless wilderness, <a href="#Page_45">45</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Waterloo station, <a href="#Page_1">1</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Whirlpools, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li> - -<li class="indx">White troops leave country, <a href="#Page_144">144</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Wilderness and night, <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Wilderness country, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>, <a href="#Page_139">139</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Wilhelmstal, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Willoughby, Major Sir John, <a href="#Page_111">111</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Wireless station destroyed, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Ziwani, fighting at, <a href="#Page_183">183</a></li> - -</ul> - -<p class="titlepage smaller"><i>Printed by Hazell, Watson & Viney, Ld., London and Aylesbury, England.</i></p> - -<div style='display:block; margin-top:4em'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THREE YEARS OF WAR IN EAST AFRICA ***</div> -<div style='text-align:left'> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Updated editions will replace the previous one—the old editions will -be renamed. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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