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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..896d787 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #68844 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/68844) diff --git a/old/68844-0.txt b/old/68844-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 2391aef..0000000 --- a/old/68844-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,2731 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook of Bookbinding for beginners, by Florence -Ordway Bean - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this eBook. - -Title: Bookbinding for beginners - -Authors: Florence Ordway Bean - John C. Brodhead - -Release Date: August 26, 2022 [eBook #68844] - -Language: English - -Produced by: Alan, Peter Becker and the Online Distributed Proofreading - Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from - images generously made available by The Internet Archive) - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BOOKBINDING FOR -BEGINNERS *** - - - - - - BOOKBINDING - FOR BEGINNERS - - By FLORENCE O. BEAN - Assistant in Manual Arts - Boston Public Schools - - JOHN C. BRODHEAD - Assistant Superintendent - Boston Public Schools - Collaborating - - - SECOND EDITION - - - PUBLISHED BY - THE DAVIS PRESS - Worcester, Mass. - 1918 - - - Copyright 1914 - SCHOOL ARTS PUBLISHING COMPANY - - - Second Edition - Copyright 1918 - THE DAVIS PRESS - - - - -INTRODUCTION - - -The present day demand for industrial education has had the effect of -somewhat discrediting the more formal manual training commonly found -in the upper elementary grades and early high school years. This work -is usually conducted in special shops and by special teachers, and the -question is being raised whether, with all these advantages, more vital -results might not be attained. - -Whether these criticisms are justified or not, the present interest in -industrial education is strengthening the demand for more effective -construction work in grades four, five and six. It is a growing -conviction that there must be laid, in the earlier grades, a strong -foundation on which to build a practical education in the later grades -whether directed toward industrial, commercial or professional life. - -The appearance of this book, therefore, is timely because it -outlines a course suitable for grades five and six which stimulates -constructive activities and develops industrial intelligence. It should -be noted that its industrial significance is much wider than its -title, “Bookbinding for Beginners,” would indicate, as even a hasty -examination of the book will show, and also that it is so planned that -it may be used successfully in schools where special teachers and -expensive equipments are impossible. - -The book is different from, and, I believe, superior to others of its -kind for the following reasons: - -First, because the projects it presents, the methods it advises, -and the results it anticipates have all been worked out by actual -experience with thousands of boys and under conditions which may be -duplicated in almost any schoolroom. The author’s personal experience -with the problems incident to the giving of manual training by the -grade teacher includes that which she gained as a successful grade -teacher herself, supplemented by some years of supervisory work in a -large city system. She is therefore conversant with every possible -phase of the school problem. - -Second, because the methods of instruction which the book employs are -such as to develop in the pupils the very qualities which are the -surest foundation for subsequent success in manual or mental work of -any kind, namely initiative and originality combined with intelligent, -logical, careful attention to details. - -Third, because it gives the teacher just the help needed to save her -from all unnecessary work in securing and handling suitable material, -in stimulating the pupils to intensive activity and self-expression, -and in judging or measuring the results of her work, without relieving -her of the necessity of intelligent effort on her part. It thus -gives the overburdened teacher the maximum help, and the specially -interested, the maximum opportunity for original supplementary work. - -For the above reasons I confidently recommend the volume to the -attention of all who are seeking to introduce an inexpensive but -effective form of manual training into the middle grades of the -elementary schools. - - Frank M. Leavitt - - Associate Professor, Industrial Education. - University of Chicago. - - - - -FOREWORD - - -The growing demand for various forms of manual training in the lower -elementary grades has led to the publication of this little volume of -“problems in elementary bookbinding,” based on the work done in the -fifth grade of the Boston public schools, where their practicability -has been fully demonstrated. Some of the most valuable suggestions have -been obtained from the teachers and are an outgrowth of their classroom -experience. Nothing is here presented which is simply theoretical. - -To Mr. John C. Brodhead, a deep appreciation of his keen criticism, -his helpful suggestions, and his never-failing interest cannot be too -strongly expressed. For their valued suggestions, thanks are due the -teachers of Boston whose efficient labors have insured the success -of the course. Acknowledgment is also made of indebtedness to the -Sloyd Training School for material, and to Miss Helen E. Cleaves and -Mr. Ludwig Frank for their interest and assistance in the details -pertaining to design. - -THE AUTHOR. - - - - -[Illustration: BOOKBINDING FOR BEGINNERS] - - -Among the various materials which lend themselves readily to a manual -training course with large classes are those of the bookbinders’ -craft. They are inexpensive, easily handled, and require no tools or -equipment that cannot be used in an ordinary classroom. The operations -necessary in the use of these materials not only give excellent -training in manual dexterity, but present remarkable opportunities for -the practical application of studies in proportion, space division, -color, lettering and applied design. The craft itself is one that comes -in touch with everyday life and any skill acquired in the use of these -materials is of permanent value. - -The lessons to be outlined in the following series presuppose some -instruction in paper-folding, cardboard construction, and simple -mechanical drawing. Though desirable, this is not essential. While in -some ways better suited to the middle grades of the elementary schools, -selection may be made from the lessons here outlined which will give -excellent training to the upper grades in those schools where the -curriculum does not include shop-work, cooking, or sewing. - -To secure this flexibility of the course, each problem is outlined in -several ways, with varying degrees of difficulty. The selection should -depend upon the grade in which it is to be given. Some of the more -dexterous pupils may be able to work out a problem in several ways. - -In each lesson outlined, there is a chance for the exercise of -individuality in the details of the model as to size, shape, -decoration, and color. Concerning choice of material, it seems wiser -that this should be exercised by the teacher or supervisor rather than -by the pupil. - -The object of the course is educational, not industrial, therefore, -those methods which stimulate inventiveness, ability to plan simple -work, and dependence on one’s own initiative are most desirable. - -The directions given under each problem have been so worded that they -call for the greatest amount of thought and initiative on the part of -the worker. The use of such instruction develops power to think, to -plan constructive work and to carry it to completion. At first, it may -be necessary for the teacher to elaborate some points especially in -connection with the working drawings or sketches, but after a little -training, each pupil should be able to lay out and cut all parts from -his own drawings; as the work progresses, he should depend less and -less upon the teacher’s assistance in making his plans. - -High standards of work and correct processes should always be set -before the pupil, and these are best assured by the teacher becoming -thoroughly conversant not only with the general construction of an -article to be made, but with the best methods of securing neat and -accurate results. Eventually, the pupil’s mental attainments will show -in the tangible work of his hands. - -Two hours each week for one school year may profitably be devoted to -this work. In the upper grades some of the easier problems should be -omitted, and more time devoted to actually bookbinding, introducing as -much variety as time and materials will allow. - - - - -EQUIPMENT - - -This equipment is sufficient for the whole course and should last -for several years. A strong wooden box with compartments insures an -orderly arrangement of tools and prevents breakage. Several rooms may -use one equipment and by means of the box, transportation is greatly -facilitated. Some system of distributing and collecting material -should be devised, and not more than five minutes consumed in making -preparations for work. - - One for each pupil - - Rule - Pr. 6-inch Scissors - Pencil, medium - Tapestry Needle, No. 17 - Wooden Triangle, 45°, 7-inch - - For class use, the number to be governed by the way in which they are - to be used, by the amount of money to be expended. For twenty-five - pupils, 12 paste-brushes and 5 punches answer very well. - - Paste-brushes 1 inch flat - Eyelet Punches - - One of each helpful, but not necessary - - Paper Cutter, 12 inch to 15 inch - Straight Edge - Large Shears - - - - -MATERIALS - - -The materials necessary for this course may be purchased from any -of the large school supply houses, or from dealers in bookbinders’ -supplies. Before an order is given, it is recommended that the -materials be seen, at least in sample, as names sometimes vary in -different commercial houses. The sizes and prices are also liable to -variation. In selecting colored papers, avoid brilliant hues, and -choose soft colors. - - FOR STIFF FOUNDATION - - Approximate - size - Newsboard 26” × 38” - - Newsboard is in reality a box board, and differs from binders’ board - in the quality of the fibre. But for such articles as are described in - this course, it is the more satisfactory of the two. Both newsboard - and binders’ board are sold in bundles each weighing 50 lbs. The board - is numbered according to the number of sheets in the bundle. Thus No. - 50 means that the bundle contains 50 sheets. Board of this number is - light in weight, easily handled by small children, and is well suited - to the articles here described. Most book covers are made of No. 30 - (30 sheets to the bundle), which is twice as thick as No. 60. The - sheets of newsboard are rather large to be handled conveniently. If - desired, they will be cut in quarters by the dealer at slight expense. - - FOR COVERING FOUNDATION - - Vellum de luxe 38” wide - - Vellum de luxe is a sized and tinted cloth of an inexpensive grade of - cotton, which is quite suitable for the purposes of this course. If - material of a higher grade is desired, art canvas, art vellum, etc., - may be purchased. These come in a great variety of colors. It is - better to use but one color in the class for economy’s sake, but, if - this is not to be considered, different articles may be of different - colors. Choose quiet colors such as “old blue,” “dull green,” “deep - red.” - - Cover Paper (light weight) 22” × 28” - - WALL PAPER - - By observing a harmony of coloring between paper and vellum some - beautiful results may be obtained. If one is fortunate enough to - secure a “sample book” there is a chance for great variety. If it must - be purchased outright two or three well chosen patterns will suffice. - - FOR LINING Approximate - size - - Marbled Paper 20” × 25” - Bark wove Paper 24” × 36” - - FOR LIMP COVERS - - Screenings 24” × 36” - Cover Paper 22” × 36” - Kraft Paper 24” × 36” - Drawing Paper (gray) 9” × 12” - Red Rope manila 24” × 36” - Oak tag stock 9” × 12” - Tough check 22” × 28” - - FOR INSIDE - - Page Paper 17” × 22” - Page Paper 8½” × 11” - Drawing Paper (white) 9” × 12” - Drawing Paper (gray) 9” × 12” - Drawing Paper (man.) 9” × 12” - Newspaper (white) 6” × 9” - - FOR STITCHING AND SEWING - - Linen Thread 40 yds. to skein - Silk 4 yds. to skein - Raffia (plain) 4 oz. package - Raffia (colored) 4 oz. package - - PASTE - - Most of the various pastes on the market serve very well the needs - of these problems. A far less expensive and quite as satisfactory - a paste may be made from wheat or rice flour provided one has the - simplest facilities for boiling. Take two tablespoonfuls of flour and - wet with warm water. Over this pour one pint of boiling water and boil - three minutes. ½ teaspoonful of powdered alum added to this will keep - it sweet for some time. If an extra strong paste is desired a small - quantity of glue may be added to the paste while it is still hot. If - solid glue is used this should first be dissolved in hot water. - - ACCESSORIES - - Eyelets 250 in box - - Purchase eyelets of the same make as the eyelet punch (see list of - equipment), since those of a different make are not always an exact - fit. - - Macreme cord 8 oz. ball - Tape (white) 4 yds. in a piece - Tape (colored) 10 yds. in a piece - Stay Tape (cloth) ¾” wide - “ “ (paper) ¾” “ - “ “ (cloth) 1” “ - “ “ (paper) 1” “ - “ “ (cloth) 1¼” “ - “ “ (paper) 1¼” “ - Super 1 yd. wide - Bookbinder’s Twine ½ lb. ball - Head Bands Different widths - - Gummed Tissue Roll or Envelope of - 5 or 6 yds. - - - - -Problem I - -BOOKLET - - - TIME: 4 hours. - - MATERIALS: For the inside, any of the paper so listed. - For the cover, any of the paper so listed. - For stitching, any material so listed. - -The simplest form of a book consists of a cover and inside sheets in a -single fold, sewed through the center. Choose materials from the lists -given. - -Three definite methods of working out this problem are here outlined, -arranged in the order of their difficulty. Other combinations will -suggest themselves. - -METHOD A. First determine the purpose for which the booklet is to be -used, and decide on shape and size of page best suited to this purpose. -If for spelling or pocket memoranda, it may be long and narrow; if for -language a larger page is desirable; or if for map work, the size and -shape of the maps should be considered. Take any sheet of paper and -experiment in folding to obtain satisfactory size and proportions. - -A single sheet of paper folded through the center is called a folio. -This sheet will be twice the width of a page and of the same length. -(Commercially, a folio is made from paper varying from 22 × 16 to 44 -× 32. Therefore, books to which this term is applied are generally of -large size.) - -With pencil and rule draw a plan of the open folio and properly -dimension the drawing. (See Plate I.) - -If there has been no previous training in simple mechanical drawing, -the use of extension and dimension lines, arrow heads, and the proper -placing of figures should be explained. If some proficiency in this -kind of drawing has been acquired, a freehand sketch may take the place -of an accurate drawing. Plate II shows some of the line conventions -used in making a working drawing. - -[Illustration: PLATE I. Accurate working drawings and freehand sketches -such as children should produce before making the booklet.] - -[Illustration: PLATE II. Line Conventions.] - -In the same manner as for the pages, draw a plan of the cover, which -should project beyond the pages from ⅛ to ¼ of an inch. Lay out and -cut the cover and one sheet for the inside, keeping carefully on the -lines. - -Having cut one sheet of the inside, lay the sheet on as many pieces -of the paper as are needed, (from three to seven make a booklet of -desirable thickness); then make a hole with a pin or needle at each -corner, piercing all at one time. On each sheet draw the four sides, -using rule and pencil. This is easier than to measure each one. The -folded sheets should be placed one inside the other to form the inside -of the booklet, and the whole placed inside the folded cover, with the -edges of the cover projecting slightly. - -[Illustration: PLATE III. Sketches illustrating a simple method of -stitching a booklet.] - -With a needle make a hole through the center of the fold, and another -near each end of the fold (from one-half an inch to an inch and a half -from the end) according to the size of the booklet, as shown in Plate -III. With thread or raffia sew through the center hole, from the inside -out, back to the inside through an end hole, outside through the center -hole, inside through the other end hole, and tie the ends in a square -knot (see illustration, Plate IV) near the center of the fold. Other -equally satisfactory methods of sewing may be worked out. - -B. Determine the purpose of the booklet first and then its size and -shape. As in A draw plans of the inside and cover. With rule and -pencil lay out parts on materials to be used. Cut and sew as in A. - -[Illustration: PLATE IV. The position of the threads in tying a square -knot.] - -Simple lettering on the cover adds much to the appearance of the -booklet. Choose a title appropriate to its contemplated use, as -“NOTES,” “SKETCHES,” etc., which should be executed in rather large -Roman capitals. On a separate sheet, mark out an oblong of height and -width desired for the title and practise on this. If title is long, -make letters narrow, if short, letters may be broadened, to fill up -more space. When satisfactory results are obtained, cut out and place -on the cover, moving up and down to determine its best position. The -base line of the title should be placed below the top at one-fifth -to one-quarter of the entire distance from the top to the bottom of -the cover. After the position is determined, the title should be -transferred either by tracing or copying. The pupil’s name in much -smaller capitals should be worked out in the same manner and placed -below the center with a somewhat wider margin at the base than at the -top. Do not enclose the title in an oblong or other figure. A single or -double line as a border around the cover looks well, if carefully done. -(See illustration, Plate V.) - -C. For the cover use gray drawing paper, tinted, other materials as -desired. - -Draw plans as in A and B. A larger surface than required for the cover -should be tinted before it is marked out, so that any streaking along -the edge may be cut off. To mix a wash of the color selected, put two -or three tablespoonfuls of water in the water-cup and add a little -paint until the desired tone is produced, being quite sure to have -enough to cover the whole surface. Try to have the wash clean, not -muddy, and beware of too much paint! The colors should be soft, not -crude, and somewhat neutralized by the addition of the complementary -color. The best results are produced by the use of green, pale yellow, -brown, dull orange, and red. Blue is very likely to streak and is -seldom satisfactory. - -[Illustration: PLATE V. The simplest possible designs for book covers, -involving good spacing and careful lettering.] - -When ready to apply the wash, place the paper on an inclined -surface--45° or more from the horizontal. A sheet of heavy cardboard -or a book answers this purpose admirably. With a full brush make a -horizontal stroke across the top of the paper. The second stroke should -be just below this leaving no dry spots between. Being careful to keep -the brush full of paint, continue in this manner until the entire -surface is covered. The surplus amount of paint which will settle along -the lower edge should be taken up with the brush, which has first been -squeezed dry between the thumb and finger. When the paper is dry, mark -out the cover and cut. Cut out the leaves and sew as in A. The cover -may be lettered as in B. - - -SCRAP BOOK - -A. This form of book is excellent for a thin scrap book. The pages may -be of any size but if definite ideas are lacking it is advised that the -size of an ordinary magazine be taken as a basis. Wrapping paper may be -used for both leaves and cover. - -B. Sometimes it is desirable to take two or three stories from -magazines and fasten the pages together, inclosing all in covers. Trim -neatly the edges of such leaves where they were torn from the binding -and assemble them in proper order. For each pair cut a strip of thin -paper of exactly the same length as the page and say one inch to one -inch and a half in width. To each of these strips paste two leaves. -When all have been pasted and dried assemble again and stitch through -the backs as already shown. - - - - -Problem II - -A HOLDER FOR THE PARTS OF A MODEL - - -Before proceeding further, some kind of a permanent holder should be -provided to keep all together the various pieces of the model. This -prevents the confusion and loss of time incident to passing several -kinds of materials each by itself. - -[Illustration: PLATE VI. Pattern for a simple envelope.] - -One lesson might be used for the making of a portfolio for this -purpose, cut from screenings or heavy wrapping paper, and patterned -after an envelope, from 6” × 9” to 9” × 12” in size. (See Plate VI.) -The contents are more securely held by providing some kind of a -fastener. The following method is a good one: In the center of one side -of the flap plan to punch a hole. This should first be re-enforced by -cutting from heavy paper a circle of ³⁄₁₆ to ⅜ radius and pasting it in -the correct place. Through both thicknesses punch the hole. Into this -insert twine, first looping it in the centre and then passing both ends -through the loop. Use this to tie the envelope. - -If large pads of paper are used in the schoolroom, their cardboard -backs may be utilized. Take two of the same size, punch holes along -three sides of each, near the edges and lace them together. If one of -the long sides of the resulting holder has been left open, materials -can be removed with greater ease than if a short side is so used. A set -of holders thus made is very durable. - -New paper bags make good holders although less desirable than either of -the other two. - - - - -Problem III - -MOUNTS AND PADS - - TIME: 6 hours. - - MATERIALS: Newsboard, vellum, and paper for memorandum pad, or - calendar, or pad to be mounted. - - -We shall now begin to deal with materials that are more exclusively -employed in bookbinding work. The simple articles considered at first -are not books; but because the processes involved and the materials -used will be used later in the more difficult work of binding a real -book, they are made a part of this course. - -The wise teacher will become somewhat familiar with handling the -required materials before attempting to give instruction. It is -recommended that two or more models from each problem be made by the -teacher before selecting one for the class. - -The articles described in Problem III (See Plate VII) consist of a -foundation of a single piece of newsboard, covered back and front with -a bookbinding cloth. - - -A. MOUNT OF A CALENDAR OR PICTURE - -First secure the article to be mounted and then determine the size and -shape most desirable for the mount. Never make the mount first and then -attempt to find something to fit it. - -To determine the size of the mount, place the calendar or picture on a -sheet of paper and find the most pleasing margins by laying a pencil on -each side of the article. Increase or decrease this margin by moving -the pencils back and forth until a satisfactory position is found, as -shown in Plate VIII. Indicate this position by a line on each side. In -the same manner, establish top and bottom margins. The margin at the -top may equal that at the side, or be a trifle wider or narrower;[1] -the one at the bottom may equal the side margins or be wider, but never -narrower, and always greater than the top margin. Draw lines for top -and bottom and the size of the foundation is indicated. A fraction of -an inch may be added or subtracted to give even measurements. - -[1] In a vertical sheet, wider; in a horizontal sheet, narrower. - -[Illustration: PLATE VII. Mounts and pads made by children.] - -Working drawings should now be made of the completed model, showing the -location of the calendar, also of the front and back. - -Make them either accurately or freehand as described in Problem I. If -the latter method is used, some sense of proportion should be observed. -That is, do not draw 3 inches as long as 6 inches, nor 4 inches longer -than 7 inches. The size of the foundation has already been determined. -The front covering should be ½ inch larger on each side than the -foundation, to allow for laps which are to fold onto the back of the -newsboard. The back covering should be from ¹⁄₁₆ to ⅛ of an inch -smaller than the foundation on each side, as the finished product looks -much neater if no raw edge is visible from the front. - -[Illustration: PLATE VIII. Deciding upon the right size mount for a -picture by experiment with pencils.] - -In Plate IX, the first drawing is of the face of the completed model -showing the location of the calendar. This also shows the size of the -foundation. The other two drawings show the size of the two pieces of -vellum. If the first drawing seems too complicated, omit the location -of the calendar, and draw and dimension only the outside rectangle to -give the size of the foundation. - -The pieces of material given out should be a little larger than the -finished size, although unnecessary waste should be avoided. No -attempt should be made to cut these pieces carefully or regularly. -Each pupil should be led to depend on his own initiative in the use -of the rule and triangle. An irregular edge which is not a guide, is -more educational than straightedges and right angles which are of -considerable assistance. - -[Illustration: PLATE IX. The completed mount showing the location of -the calendar, and the two pieces of vellum.] - -With rule, triangle, and pencil, carefully lay out each part from the -drawings already made, and cut the coverings with the scissors.[2] The -foundation is more successfully cut with the paper cutter, as to cut -it with scissors is a very difficult task for little hands and likely -to loosen the scissors at the joint. The most desirable way is for each -pupil to cut his own newsboard, in which case the ruler fastened to the -cutter may be used to insure the correct size without any preliminary -measuring. If the cutter is deemed unsafe for the pupils’ use, the -proper size may be marked on the newsboard with pencil and the pieces -cut by a large boy or by the teacher. - -[2] Selvage should never be allowed to remain on a covering of vellum. -A “raw edge” pastes down more closely and is, therefore, less apparent. -Vellum tears very easily lengthwise, and a torn edge may be allowed if -it is to be covered. If not to be covered, all edges should invariably -be cut. - -When the pieces have all been cut, place the newsboard on the back side -of the front piece of vellum, with the margins equal, and draw around -it. Cover the surface inside the pencil lines with a thin, even coat of -paste. - -Much of the success of the work depends on the pasting and rubbing. -The paste is of the right consistency when put up by the dealer, and -if it dries somewhat after being opened, a little water thoroughly -stirred in will make it all right. The brush well filled with paste -should be passed over the surface of the covering material with long -even strokes. No dry spots should be left, and especial pains should -be taken to cover the surface close to the pencil lines. Look across -the pasted surface toward the light to see if it is entirely covered; -looking directly down upon it does not reveal the dry places. Rub the -brush rather heavily over the surface to make the paste sink into the -cloth. - -While pasting, several sheets of newspaper are invaluable to protect -the desk, the model, and the fingers. With a few quick strokes of the -card-cutter, cut off the folds of a newspaper, leaving loose sheets the -size of half or a quarter page. Each desk should have several sheets, -placed one on top of another. When the top sheet has become sticky, -discard it. A perfectly clean surface beneath it is ready to be used -in the same way. Press the newsboard on the pasted surface, turn it -over,[3] and rub it down very hard on the right side of the vellum. -When rubbing the vellum on the right side, a small piece of cloth for -each pupil prevents finger marks, and enables the pupil to rub harder -as the cloth protects the hand. - -[3] When turning over any part of the model which has a pasted surface, -take hold near the center as far as possible, as handling by the edges -or corners is likely to remove paste from the places where it is most -needed. - -Before pasting projecting parts, the corners should be cut. Two methods -are shown in the illustrations. In the first, two adjacent projections -are turned onto the back of the foundation. Be careful that they -fit very closely to the sides of the newsboard, press down with the -fingers, and hold them very firmly. At the corner will be a surplus -piece which should be pinched to stand upright. Slanting the scissors -very slightly upward, cut from the corner toward the center. (See Plate -X). The second method is to make slanting cuts from the outside of the -vellum toward the corners of the newsboard. (See Plate XI). Apply paste -to the projecting sides, fold over and rub down; treat the ends in the -same manner. - -[Illustration: PLATE X. Clipping the corners.] - -If it is desired that the completed mount shall hang on the wall, make -a loop of ribbon, tape, or vellum. If tape or ribbon is used, choose -the color very carefully; that which matches the vellum is the best -choice; but, if a contrast is preferred, choose a soft color which has -some quality in harmony with the vellum. Paste this loop to the back -of the foundation, allowing it to project above the top. Apply paste -to the back covering and rub it down very firmly, being careful that -no loose edges are left. Instead of pasting on a loop, a hole may be -punched near the top with the eyelet punch, and an eyelet inserted. -This should be done after the back is pasted on. - -[Illustration: PLATE XI. One method of cutting the corners.] - -According to plan, paste on the calendar or picture. Dry all under a -weight. If several mounts are to be placed under the same weight, it -is better that each should be separated from the others by a sheet -of blotting paper, or several thicknesses of newspaper. Allow them -to stand over night. In the morning they will be found sufficiently -pressed. - - -B. MOUNT FOR MEMORANDUM PAD - -Secure a small pad, and plan a mount to extend beyond the pad ⅛ inch or -more on each side. Draw plans, work out, and paste as in A. Instead of -a loop by which to suspend the pad, make a holder for a pencil to be -placed on the right side of the mount. Cut a strip of vellum one-half -or three-quarters the length of the mount. At each end of the strip -turn about ⅛ inch onto the wrong side to give a finished edge. To -secure the correct size, fold the strip over the pencil to be used, -and, with the pencil still folded in, paste the two long edges of -the strip together, and then to the back of the newsboard, having it -placed midway between the top and bottom edges. The pasting of the back -covering then follows. Remove the cardboard back from the pad before -pasting it to the mount. Dry under weight. - - -C. POCKET MEMORANDUM PAD - -This is intended to be carried in the pocket, and its size should be -governed by its use. Avoid rectangles which approximate the square, -but choose rather such proportions as 2 × 3 or 2½ × 4. As in A, make -working drawings for the three pieces. If desired, the first drawing -may be of the completed face. (See Plate XII.) Lay out and cut all -parts. - -[Illustration: PLATE XII. A front view of the memorandum pad accurately -drawn to show proportions; also drawings of the vellum coverings.] - -On the front piece of vellum lay the newsboard as in A, and draw around -it. From the corners indicated by the pencil lines measure equal -distances along adjacent lines, and connect the points by straight -lines. Be careful not to make these lines too near the corners, ¾ of an -inch to 1 inch being a good measurement for a small pad. Cut on these -lines with a sharp knife, or folding the ends of the line together, cut -along the line with scissors. - -Apply paste to the front piece, being careful not to paste outside -the slanting lines at the corners, for this space should be left free -to hold the sheets of paper. One way to protect these corners is to -insert a piece of newsboard or paper in the slits, from the right side -of the vellum, so that the corners on the wrong side are covered. The -paste may then be applied with freedom. Remove the protecting piece -of newsboard and paste the vellum to the foundation. Finish as in A -without the hanger, or, if desired, add pencil holder as in B. Cut -several sheets of white paper ⅛ of an inch smaller than the newsboard, -and, when the paste is thoroughly dry, insert them in the slits. - - -D. BLOTTER - -Like C except that it should be large enough to hold a school blotter. -Increase the size of the corners to be proportionate to the size of the -blotter. - - - - -Problem IV - - TIME: 8 hours. - - MATERIALS: Newsboard, vellum, and lining paper. - - Note: As in Problem II, each of these models has a foundation of a - single piece of newsboard, covered on the front with vellum, but on - the back with lining paper. - - -A. A NEEDLECASE - -As shown at A in Plate XIII, the needlecase should be planned to hold -four papers of needles, two at each end. The size of the case will -depend on the size of the papers of needles, and must be planned -accordingly. Make the width a little more than twice the width of a -paper of needles, and allow a little space lengthwise between the -papers of needles to permit their easy removal. The pockets are formed -of strips of vellum pasted on to each end of the foundation, and their -depth should be a little more than half the length of a paper of -needles. - -An accurate working drawing of the completed case should be made (see -Plate XIV). From this, mark out and cut the newsboard to the correct -size. The front covering of vellum should have laps on the sides only -and may well be a little shorter than the foundation. Make freehand, -dimensioned sketches of this piece, of the vellum pockets, and of the -marbled paper. The pockets should have ½ inch laps on three sides for -pasting to the back. On the other edge, which is to be free, allow at -least an eighth of an inch to be turned over like a hem onto the wrong -side for a neat finish. The paper for the back should be one-fourth of -an inch narrower and shorter than the foundation. - -Mark out and cut with the scissors, the pieces of vellum and marbled -paper. The front covering should be pasted on first. Before pasting the -pockets (which should be fastened to the back only) turn over the hem, -and crease it hard, but do not paste. The hem will extend onto the side -laps. From these laps cut off the under side of the hem that it may not -be double. Paste on the pockets and the back. Dry all under weight. - -[Illustration: PLATE XIII. A needlecase, a checkerboard and a blotter. -Good problems upon which to practise the processes involved in -bookbinding.] - - -B. A CHECKERBOARD - -First decide on the size of the small squares, remembering that there -are eight in each direction. Also allow for a margin, outside the -squares, which should vary in proportion to the size of the squares. -A single or double border line enclosing the squares is a desirable -addition. (See B, Plate XIII.) - -Make working drawings of the foundation, the front covering of vellum, -and the back covering of lining paper. In selecting vellum for this -model, have in mind the application of a color which is to be used on -alternate squares. Either a deep red vellum with alternate squares of -black or a dull green vellum with alternate squares of red is a good -combination. - -[Illustration: PLATE XIV. An accurate working drawing of the completed -needlecase, and dimensioned sketches of the pieces used for covering.] - -Lay out and cut all parts, using the card cutter for the newsboard, -and the scissors for the vellum and the lining paper. As in previous -models, lay foundation on the back of the piece of vellum, draw around -it, and cover with paste the surface enclosed by the pencil lines. -Again place the foundation on the vellum, press it down hard, turn -over both pieces and rub the vellum on the right side until it is -smooth. When thoroughly rubbed down, paste laps, being careful to make -neat corners. Paste on lining paper and dry under weight. - -During a subsequent lesson, mark out the checkerboard, accurately, -with rule and pencil. Only alternate squares need be colored, and this -may be done with water colors, crayon, or pencil. If water colors are -chosen, they should be used with as little water as possible. Before -applying the paint to the vellum, the glaze of the surface may be -reduced by rubbing over it the powder which comes from common white -chalk. Rub the powder in with the fingers and lightly brush off what -remains. On a separate piece of vellum, practice the application of -color before applying it to the checkerboard, both to test the color -itself, and to become somewhat familiar with the best method of -application. After the paint is thoroughly dry, the surface may be -cleaned by rubbing carefully with a piece of cloth. Finish by putting -on the outside border line with pencil. - - -C. A BLOTTER - -This is to be a more elaborate production than the blotter described in -Problem III (D). Compare C, Plate XIII. - -First determine the size of the foundation, which may vary from -small-blotter to desk-blotter size. Consider proportions very -carefully. A small blotter admits greater variance between length and -width than one of larger size. Make dimensioned drawings of foundation, -front covering of vellum or cover paper, and back covering of marbled -paper. - -When the foundation has been cut and the front covering pasted on, plan -the corners which are to consist of separate pieces. Determine their -size by setting off a triangle at one corner with a rule or pencil, -moving the rule or pencil to vary the size of the triangle until one of -satisfactory size is decided upon. Lay out on paper a triangle of the -chosen size. The thickness of the foundation, plus the thickness of the -one or more sheets of blotting paper which are to be placed under the -corners, must be taken into consideration. Before adding the laps which -are to extend onto the back for half an inch or more experiment with -patterns cut from paper (see Plate XV). - -The corners may be made of linen, vellum, cover paper, or skiver (a -prepared leather which has been split by machinery). Cut them out by -the pattern. To give a finish to the edge which is to be free, turn -it over about ¼ of an inch. If leather is used, a portion of the -under side along the edges should be additionally skived off, before -turning over, to make the laps very thin. Cover paper, if used, may be -re-enforced by pasting a piece of muslin onto the back. - -[Illustration: PLATE XV. Diagram for blotter corner.] - -These corners present an opportunity for applied design. The most -satisfactory decoration for leather is “tooling.” On the other -materials suggested, a design may be applied by stenciling or block -printing.[4] - -[4] Simple directions for these processes may be found in the _School -Arts Book_ as follows: Tooling, June, 1908; Stenciling, June and -October, 1908, March, 1912; Block-printing, June, 1907. - -The designs should be simple and appropriate (see Plates XVI), and the -color scheme carefully planned. Unless a special study has been made -of color harmonies, a combination of analogous colors or complementary -colors is a wiser choice than a more complicated combination. Practise -on paper until a pattern is secured, and apply it to the corners by the -method decided upon. - -[Illustration: PLATE XVI. Blotter pad corners with original units by -grammar-school children.] - -When pasting on the decorated corners, the sheets of blotting paper -should be placed on the foundation so that there will be room for -their use. Paste the laps to the back of the foundation, being very -careful to place the corners in exact position. Leave the sheets -of blotting paper under the corners until after the whole has been -pressed; otherwise the weight would crush the corners. When putting in -new sheets of blotting paper, they can be more easily slipped under -the corners if a small triangle has been cut from each corner of the -blotting paper. A sheet of lining paper about ⅜ of an inch shorter -and narrower than the foundation should be pasted to the back. Dry all -under weight. - - - - -Problem V - -MOUNTS AND COVERS - - TIME: 6 hours. - - MATERIALS: Newsboard, vellum, and lining paper. - - NOTE: Each article in this problem has two foundation pieces covered - by a single piece of vellum, which forms a hinge between them, and the - whole is lined with marbled paper. - - -A. A CALENDAR STAND - -First make or secure a calendar, which should be of small size. If -desired, a picture may be used with the calendar, but it should -harmonize with it in size and color. In such a case plan to have the -space between the two much smaller than the margins, so that the eye -will take them in as a group, and not as two separate objects. Decide -on the margins as described in Problem II, and thus arrive at the -proper size for one of the foundation pieces of newsboard. (See Plate -XVII.) - -Make a dimensioned sketch of this piece, and plan to have two made of -newsboard. For the outside covering plan a strip of vellum which shall -be long enough to cover both pieces of newsboard when placed about -one-eighth of an inch apart, and to make half-inch laps on each side -and end. Plan a strip of vellum about an inch wide and as long as the -width of the foundation pieces to form the back of the hinge; and two -pieces of lining paper, each one-eighth of an inch smaller in both -directions than the foundation pieces. Make dimensioned sketches of -these pieces (see Plate XVIII), lay out and cut all parts. - -In the center of the narrow strip of vellum mark off a space one-eighth -of an inch wide, extending lengthwise of the strip. Apply paste -and lay the two pieces of newsboard on the vellum and with edges -against the lines drawn. Press hard on the newsboard, turn it over, -and rub down the vellum. A hinge is thus formed for the two pieces -of newsboard. Lay these pieces on the large piece of vellum and draw -around the whole. Apply paste to the vellum inside the pencil lines. -Lay the double foundation on the pasted surface with the narrow strip -of vellum on top. Rub down the outside surface very hard, leaving no -wrinkles or rough places; clip the corners as described in Problem II, -paste the laps, fold them over, rub them down, and line the mount with -the pieces of marbled paper. Connect the front and back halves of the -mount by a single or double strap of vellum pasted to the inside of -each. Finish by pasting on the calendar and picture. - -[Illustration: PLATE XVII. Calendars.] - - NOTE. If the calendars are made for Christmas, a most appropriate - time, the children are sometimes desirous of decorating with Christmas - seals. These are not so desirable as a decorative picture, but if the - teacher feels that to forbid their use would be dispiriting to the - child, she should insist that only one seal should be used and that - on the back of the standard where it will carry its message, but will - not detract from the appearance of the face of the mount. An envelope - might be made in which to present the calendar, and the seals used on - the outside of the envelopes. - -[Illustration: PLATE XVIII. Freehand sketches of the parts of a simple -calendar mount.] - - -B. ANOTHER CALENDAR MOUNT - -Plan the back standard to be smaller than the front instead of the same -size. Plate XIX suggests a suitable trapezoidal shape. In this case -the vellum must be of the same length as before, but cut to fit the -different widths of the newsboard (compare Plate XX). - -Plan a narrow strip of vellum to line the hinge, as in A. Paste this -piece and the outside covering as before. Cut the lining paper of the -correct shapes and apply to the back. - -[Illustration: PLATE XIX. The foundation pieces for an easel mount.] - - -C. A NEEDLE-BOOK - -This consists of covers with leaves of flannel. Decide upon the size of -leaves, which should not be too large and in good proportion. One piece -of flannel should form two leaves, as in booklets described in Problem -I. Plan the covers to be one-eighth of an inch larger in each direction -than the leaves. These should be constructed like the calendar mount -already described in A, but the space between should be greater, -perhaps three-eighths of an inch. Make dimensioned sketches of all -parts. The parts should then be laid out, cut, and pasted. Finish the -edges of the leaves by pinking (cutting in small points). Four leaves -are sufficient. Sew them to the cover as described in Problem I. - -[Illustration: PLATE XX. The flat of vellum for covering the -foundation.] - - -D. A COVERED MEMORANDUM PAD - -Secure a small pad. Plan covers, as described in B, which shall project -about one-eighth of an inch in each direction beyond the pad. Plan to -have the space between them about ⅜ of an inch more than the thickness -of the pad. When the covers are finished, paste the pad firmly to the -inside of one cover. If desired, loops of vellum to hold the pencil may -be pasted on the side of the pad, as described in Problem I. - - - - -Problem VI - -FOLDING CHECKERBOARD[3] - - TIME: 6 hours. - - MATERIALS: Newsboard, vellum, squared paper. - - -This checkerboard (Plate XXI) is planned with squares ¾” in size, and -of these there should be 8 on each side alternating dark and light. By -making a foundation 7½” square, it gives a margin of ¾” on all sides, -resulting not only in a satisfactory appearance, but providing a place -for extra checkers. This board folds through the center and is small -enough to be easily carried in the pocket. The illustration is intended -to show the construction to the teacher. Such a drawing should not be -attempted by the pupils whose efforts should be confined to simple -sketches of the necessary pieces as in the other problems. - -Cut two pieces of newsboard 3⅝” strong × 7½”, and a piece of vellum -about 9” square. It will be observed that the width of the newsboard -is less than half the length in order to allow a space between the two -pieces of newsboard without which the completed board would not close. - -On the back side of the piece of vellum mark off in heavy lines the -positions of the two pieces of newsboard and allow ¼” or ³⁄₁₆” space -between them. Paste the newsboard to the vellum as already described, -cut the corners and paste the edges. A strip of vellum 2” × 7” should -be pasted to cover the space between the two pieces of newsboard and -extend well onto them. - -[3] From “War Time Occupations.” - -[Illustration: PLATE XXI] - -The paper used for lining may be prepared in one of several ways, -either by machine or by hand, and may be in one piece or two. The -former is less likely to be confusing. The easiest and quickest method -is to have the squares printed in dark ink on white or light gray paper -of good quality, and fairly tough. The use of linoleum is suggested -as one method of printing squares, or a line plate may be made, the -squares printed from it and finished linings for the checkerboards -furnished to those who are making them. The light squares may be -left as they are or may be colored with water color, crayon, or oils. -All the outside squares should be lined in, either when printed or -afterward by hand. A border line about ¼” outside the squares adds very -much to the general appearance. - -If all the markings and coloring must be done by hand, paper -commercially ruled into ¼” squares is recommended. This secures -accuracy, and saves much tiresome ruling. Three such spaces on each -side form a ¾ inch square and when the checkerboard is laid off by -small dots on outside lines, proceed to color alternate squares by one -of the following methods: - -A. With soft pencil darken alternate squares leaving others of the -original color. Begin with the upper row, and take successive rows -downward. Across the paper lay a rule just below the lower edge of the -squares to be darkened. With the pencil make vertical strokes only, -using the side of the pencil to give an even surface free from ridges. -Be careful with the lines at the right and left edges that they do not -extend into the adjoining space. The edge of the rule will stop the -strokes at the right place at the bottom and they should not extend -quite to the top as this can be adjusted later. When all rows are -finished, turn paper around so that what was top is now bottom, and -complete squares by the same method. - -B. Instead of pencil, colored crayons may be used in the same manner as -already described. - -C. Crayons of two colors may be used in alternate squares, or one color -and a black pencil. Orange and black or red and black are pleasing -combinations. - -D. Ink or water may be applied with a brush. - -When completed place the “board” so that a dark square is in the upper -left and lower right corners respectively, and cut open vertically, -removing about ¼” from the center two halves. If no space is left, the -paper soon cracks in folding; if too little space is left, the edges -soon turn and later become ”dog-eared“; if too much is left, it is -confusing to the players, as theoretically there should be no space at -all. Paste these pieces to each half of the cover, placing them about -¼” apart, and dry flat under weight. - -When thoroughly dry, the inner surface should be varnished with shellac -or valspar to give stability to the color. Otherwise, it soon becomes -rubbed and the appearance, if not the utility, of the board is spoiled. -One coat is sufficient to hold the color, but if a polished surface is -desired two are needed. - -The question of coating the outside with shellac or other polish is an -open one, and may be decided to suit the individual taste. - -It is sometimes desirable to show that an article is the product of the -schoolroom, and in this case a neatly printed label with a space for -the pupil’s name, etc., may be pasted to the outside. - -If larger boards are desired make the squares one inch in size leaving -¾” margin. The foundation consists of two pieces of newsboard, each 4⅝” -× 9½” and the vellum for covering should be 11½” square. The process of -assembling is like that used in the small board. - - -CHECKERS - -I. Dowels. Checkers may be made from dowels ⅝” or ¾” for small -checkerboards and ⅞” or 1” for the larger boards. Broom handles, etc., -may be used as substitutes for the dowels. - -The checkers should be of a uniform thickness, and this is best secured -by using a combination mitre-box, saw, and gauge. If this is not -available, any other means may be employed to saw the dowels into disks -⅛” or ³⁄₁₆” in thickness. - -Lay a piece of sandpaper on a flat surface and rub the checkers on this -to remove saw marks. Two grades of sandpaper give a better finish than -one. - -To play the game, it is necessary that there should be two colors of -checkers. Some woods present sufficient difference in their natural -colors to serve this purpose, but it is generally better that one set -at least should be artificially colored. For this, use stain or ink. -Place some of the fluid in a shallow dish, and drop the checkers into -it. Remove at once with nippers or two sticks, and lay on a paper to -dry. - -Most stains will stand some water, but common ink would wash out if -rained on. So to preserve the color, checkers dyed with ink should -afterward be dropped into a thin shellac and taken out and dried. Those -of natural color should also be shellaced as they keep clean much -longer. After the shellac is dry, there is a little roughness on the -surface. If this is rubbed off with fine sandpaper the checkers are -much more agreeable to handle. Twelve checkers of each color are needed -for a set but three or four extra ones may be added. Put these in a -strong bag securely tied. - -II. Button Molds. Instead of using dowels, as just described, wooden -button molds may be colored and used. - -III. Buttons. Two contrasting colors of flat buttons make excellent -checkers. - - - - -Problem VII - -PICTURE FRAME - - TIME: 4 hours. - - MATERIALS: Newsboard, vellum or paper. - - -First choose size of picture and then width of frame. This may be -uniform on all sides or one may observe the rules for margins shown on -pages 21 and 22. Make a careful drawing of the outside of the frame -and opening, and then lay out and cut the newsboard as indicated. For -covering, plan and cut a piece of vellum, grass cloth, paper or other -material which shall extend beyond the newsboard on each side for at -least one-half an inch. On this material indicate the position of -the newsboard including the opening for the picture. Also draw lines -one-half an inch inside and parallel to the lines showing opening. -Cut on these lines and at each corner cut oblique lines to allow the -laps to fold under. For the back there should be planned and cut -another piece of newsboard one-eighth of an inch shorter than the front -and of the same width; and to cover it a strip of covering material -three-eighths of an inch longer and one-quarter of an inch narrower -than the newsboard. (See Plate XXII.) - -[Illustration: PLATE XXII. Dimensioned sketches of the parts of a -picture frame.] - -To assemble: Paste the foundation of the front to the covering and turn -under and paste the laps at the opening. At this time paste only one -outside lap and that the top one. Over one end of the newsboard-back -turn the outside strip about half an inch and paste this down leaving -the remainder of the piece free. Place this piece of newsboard against -the front, with the pasted end at the top, and over both pieces of -newsboard paste the three laps attached to the front side. Fold back -the free piece and paste as a lining over the back. To this may be -pasted a patent hanger--a ring attached to a gummed disk. The picture -should be inserted at the opening in the top. - -[Illustration: PLATE XXIII. A folding picture frame.] - -If a double frame is desired (see Plate XXIII) make a frame for each -picture but use for the back of each a piece of heavy paper which -should not have an additional covering. Make a foundation which folds -through the center planning to have it extend slightly beyond the -frames as shown in Plate XXII; to each half of this foundation attach -the frames already made. - -C. Either style of frame may be made with a covering of silk, grass -cloth, leather, and slightly padded. For this purpose use sheet wadding -which should be firmly attached to the front of the foundation. Over -this lay the covering material and paste the laps only, not the broad -faces. - - - - -Problem VIII - -HINGED COVERS - - TIME: 8 hours. - - MATERIALS: Newsboard, vellum, paper for leaves, eyelets, cord, and (if - desired) cover paper for C and D. - - NOTE: In selecting materials, choose those which harmonize with each - other, i.e., the vellum, cover paper, and lining paper should be of - the same hue. - - -The problem is to make two separate hinged covers between which loose -leaves may be bound, the whole to be fastened together with macrame or -other cord. This may be designed for one of many uses, suggestions for -several of which follow (see Plate XXIV). - -[Illustration: PLATE XXIV. Examples of hinged covers made by grammar -school children.] - - -A. A SKETCH BOOK - -[Illustration: PLATE XXV. Freehand dimensioned sketches showing parts -of a sketch book cover.] - -In making dimensioned sketches for the various parts (see Plate XXV) -determine first the size of the pages and plan the covers to extend -beyond them about one-eighth of an inch. Make the sketches of the pages -and the newsboard foundations. Lay out and cut the latter, of full -size, and then from either a long or short side of each, in accordance -with plan, cut a strip to form a hinge. The width of these strips -may be from three-quarters of an inch to one inch. Vellum should be -planned to cover completely one side of both pieces of each cover, to -fold around the small piece and to lap over onto the large piece about -one-half inch. It should also fold over the other three edges about -one-half inch. (See Plate XXVI.) The lining paper should cover to -within about one-eighth of an inch of the edges of the large pieces -and should not extend onto the hinge. Constant bending soon breaks -paper, but with ordinary use does not affect the tough vellum. Make -dimensioned sketches of these pieces (see Plate XXV) and lay out and -cut all remaining parts. - -[Illustration: PLATE XXVI. A diagram showing the position of the two -pieces of newsboard on a piece of vellum.] - -Properly place main part of newsboard on vellum, drawing around it. Lay -small part one-eighth of an inch from main part and draw around it. -Remove the pieces of newsboard and apply paste to vellum inside the -pencil line, being careful to cover the surface smoothly and evenly; -lay both back pieces in place, turn the vellum over and rub down. Cut -from the projecting vellum on the hinged side a small piece even with -the edges of the hinges as far as the outside corners (see Plate XXVI), -and clip off the outside corners as before described. Apply paste to -projecting vellum, fold over first the hinged side and its opposite, -then the other two sides, and rub down. Paste the lining paper in and -dry the covers separately under weight. Remember to place newspaper or -blotting paper between each pair, otherwise the moisture from one will -cause wrinkles in the other. - -For the leaves, use drawing paper, which may be cut singly or in folio -(with single fold). The latter method is preferable, as folded sheets -are easier to place at the back, look better, and are more secure. - -[Illustration: PLATE XXVII. Two methods of cutting and folding paper -for the pages of a scrap book or postcard album.] - -Two holes in each cover are sufficient for the cord, but a little care -should be taken to determine the best position for them. The distance -of each from the end of the hinge strips should be from one-fifth to -one-sixth of its length, and, of course, they should be placed midway -between the long edges. After punching the holes, see that the leaves -are properly marked so that the holes in them will exactly fit the -holes in the cover. To do this, place one sheet on the cover, leaving -correct margins, and through the center of each hole mark the paper -which should then be punched. Treat the other sheets in the same -manner. Eyelets should be inserted in the covers only, and for that -purpose a good eyelet punch is necessary. Directions for its use and -sample eyelets accompany punches when sent from the dealer. - -Complete by tying all together with a piece of cord. Make a small flat -bow on the front cover. - - -B. A SCRAP BOOK - -This should be planned and worked out in the same manner as the Sketch -Book, but it should be somewhat larger, possibly 6 × 8½ inches. For the -leaves, screenings or wrapping paper may be used. - -To prevent covers from flaring after the book has been filled, the -thickness at the back should be increased by additional folds in the -paper, as shown in Plate XXVIIA. The “stub” should be about one inch -wide after it is folded. The Japanese method, which is to fold a very -long strip many times in the same manner, forms a pleasing arrangement -(see Plate XXVIIB). - - -C. A POSTCARD ALBUM - -Make the covers described in A and the leaves of a heavy paper. -Green or brown screenings look well and give a background generally -harmonious with colored postcards. The size of the leaves should be -sufficient to leave a generous margin around the card. If two are to be -placed on one page, have the space between less than the margins around -the edges. A little additional margin at the bottom is always pleasing. -Slits for holding the cards may be made in the following manner: cut a -blank sheet of paper of the size of a postal card and from each corner -measure both vertically and horizontally 1 to 1¼ inches and connect -the adjacent corners with straight lines. Place this pattern in proper -position and use the ends of the lines on it to locate the lines to be -drawn on the page itself. It a hole is punched at each end of the line, -it gives a neat appearance and prevents the paper from tearing easily. -The lines on the page should be cut with a sharp knife. Insert each -card by placing its corners in the slits. - -A second set of oblique lines parallel to those already described may -be drawn and cut three-eighths of an inch farther from each corner. -This will form a strap to hold the cards in place, and on the opposite -side of the leaf cards may be inserted in the outside slits. - - -D. A CLIPPING FILE - -[Illustration: PLATE XXVIII. Relative positions of newsboard and vellum -in making the cover of a clipping file.] - -Between two separate covers several envelopes--say five--are to be -fastened and used for holding clippings, etc. Select the envelopes--3½ -by 9 inches is a convenient size. Plan covers to be about one-eighth -of an inch longer on each end than the envelopes and seven-eighths of -an inch wider. This allows three-quarters of an inch for the guard -and also a projection of one-eighth of an inch on the opposite side. -Strips of vellum should be planned to cover completely both sides of -the hinge, to lap over onto the large piece about one inch both outside -and in, and to extend beyond each end about one-half inch. To cover -the rest of the newsboard, cover paper should be used and the pieces -should lap over the vellum about three-quarters of an inch on the side -next to the hinge and fold over the other edges about one-half an inch. -The lining paper should cover to within one-eighth of an inch of the -edges of the large pieces of newsboard. Make dimensioned sketches of -all pieces and lay out and cut all parts. - -Draw a line through the center of the vellum showing where the back -edge of the small piece of newsboard should come. Lay main part -one-eighth of an inch from this line and draw around the edges of both -pieces except where the large piece projects beyond the vellum (see -Plate XXVIII). Apply paste to vellum, lay pieces of newsboard in place, -turn it over and rub down. Cut from the projecting vellum a small piece -even with the ends of the hinges as far as the outside corners. Apply -paste first to projecting ends, then to long strip; fold over and rub -down. - -Properly place cover on cover paper and draw around it. Apply paste to -cover paper and finish as when vellum is used for entire cover. Paste -in the lining paper and dry under weight. - -Strips of vellum about 2½ inches wide and one inch longer than the -envelopes should be folded lengthwise down the middle to form guards. -Cut strips of newsboard three-quarters of an inch wide, and of the -same length as the envelope. Apply paste to half the vellum and lay -the newsboard on it with one edge against the center fold. Against the -other edge of the newsboard lay the lower edge of the envelope with its -ends and the ends of the newsboard in the same straight lines. Treat -the ends of vellum in the same manner as on the covers. Punch holes in -covers and guards, insert eyelets, and fasten together by tying, or -with paper fasteners. - - - - -Problem IX - -BOXES - - TIME: 6 hours. - - MATERIALS: Newsboard, stay-tape or vellum, and a thin paper. - - -First determine the size of the box, which should be made for a -definite purpose. Consider the proportions of the width, length, and -height; also the height of the sides of the cover. - -A box consists of foundations of newsboard, the edges of which are -stayed with strips of tape or vellum, and the outside covered with -paper. The cover should be larger than the bottom by ⅛ inch in both -directions to allow it to slip over the box. This amount will vary -somewhat with the thickness of the newsboard, the paper with which it -is covered, and the skill of the worker. - -The foundation for each part is to be developed from a single piece -of newsboard. The box and cover are to be covered with a thin paper. -A great variety of paper for this purpose may be purchased, either -figured or in plain colors. - -For the box plan a strip of paper long enough to extend around the -four sides and to provide for a lap where the ends join. Be generous -with this lap, as it will be found that the paper “takes up” when it -is pasted on. The width of the strip should be at least one inch more -than the depth of the box. For the cover, plan covering paper like the -newsboard development, but with its sides ½ inch or more wider to fold -over the edges. Let the corner squares serve as laps. Make dimensioned -sketches of all pieces and lay out and cut all parts. (See Plate XXIX.) - -Along folding lines of the foundations score deeply with a knife, one -blade of the scissors, or with a pin, and fold with the crease on the -outside. It is essential to the success of the box to have this crease -on the outside to insure a sharp, straight, and strong edge, which -might otherwise be rounded, irregular, and weak. - -[Illustration: PLATE XXIX. Drawings of the pieces required in making -boxes.] - -Fasten the corners of both box and cover together with pieces of tape -or strips of vellum, lapping onto the sides. (See Plate XXX.) If -possible, allow the corners to dry before proceeding further. - -Paste the strip of paper around the box, allowing ½ inch to project -beyond both top and bottom edges. Rub down well. Make a vertical cut -at each corner of upper projection and fold and paste laps down on the -inside. (See Plate XXXI.) - -Make a V-cut at each corner of the lower projection, fold and paste -the laps against the bottom. (See Plate XXXII.) It will probably be -necessary to apply more paste before finally rubbing these laps down. - -[Illustration: PLATE XXX. The box in process of construction showing -method of “staying” the corners.] - -[Illustration: PLATE XXXI. Showing method of pasting the laps to the -inside of the box.] - -Paste top of cover to the paper, leaving equal margins on all sides. -From the two long edges make cuts to the corners of the newsboard -foundation at right angles to its edges. Fold and paste paper over -the ends of cover first, and then onto the inside, using the thumb to -push the paper over the edges. (See Plate XXXI.) The cuts made from -the long edges give an extra length to end coverings. Paste this extra -piece onto long sides and then paste the part naturally to be used to -cover these sides. The appearance of the box will be greatly improved -by running the thumb and finger along the folded edges of the cover to -sharpen them. - -[Illustration: PLATE XXXII. The laps are being pasted to the bottom of -the box.] - -[Illustration: PLATE XXXIII. Here the paper is being pasted to the side -of the cover.] - -In this manner, boxes of any size may be made. Small boxes may be -covered with linen, cretonne, or other kinds of cloth. In this case it -may be better (after making the foundations as already described) to -paste the covering to the inside of the foundation only, otherwise the -surface might be discolored by the paste oozing through the cloth. - -A box with a glass top is sometimes desirable for holding specimens -of various kinds. Such a box may be made as above described with the -following changes: If it is to be a sealed box the specimens should -be properly placed in the box and the glass (which should be as large -as the outside measurement of the box to prevent its dropping in) -laid over the top before pasting down that part of the covering which -projects above the box itself. When properly arranged this should then -be pasted to the glass exactly as the laps are pasted to the bottom of -the box. - -If a removable cover is desired, cut strips of newsboard for the sides -and a strip of material for covering them in the same manner that -the box is covered. After staying the corners with vellum, paste on -the strip of covering material; one edge of this should lap over the -newsboard and be pasted to the inside of the cover and the other should -hold the glass in position after it has been placed on the newsboard. - - - - -Problem X - -POSTCARD HOLDER - - TIME: 8 hours. - - MATERIALS: Newsboard, vellum, and lining paper. - - -Before beginning this holder, it may be well to have collections made -of cards relating to a definite subject. Interest in the study of -various industries, history, and geography is greatly increased by the -use of pictures, and in many places sets of cards prepared for such a -purpose may be purchased. - -[Illustration: PLATE XXXIV. The postcard holder partly open.] - -This holder consists of an outside case into which the inner holder -slips. (See Plate XXXIV.) The size of the faces may be determined by -individual pupils, but, if the blocks to be described later are used, -it will be quite essential to have a uniform size so that the blocks -may be used interchangeably among the pupils. For this reason, it is -recommended that the broad faces of the outside be about one inch -larger in each direction than a postcard, and the narrow faces 1¼” wide. - -Plan the foundation of a single piece of newsboard, as wide as the -outside length of the holder, scored to divide it into the four faces -above referred to, and a fifth division the exact size of one narrow -face. Arrange these faces to be joined at their long edges with a -narrow face on each end of the strip of newsboard so that when folded -together one narrow face will be double, which gives greater stability -to the shape of the holder. Plan a strip of vellum 2 inches wider than -the length of the case, and long enough to extend around it, allowing -for a lap at one corner. It will be found in putting on this vellum -that it will require a piece longer than the sum of the width of the -faces as, however closely it may be put on, it “takes up” at the -corners. Therefore be generous with the lap as a little extra length -does no harm. - -For the inner holder plan a strip of newsboard ⅛” narrower than the -case, scored to divide it into five parts. Two parts are to be of the -same length as the case, alternating with two narrow faces ⅛” less than -thickness of the case (that they may fit inside) and the fifth piece -about one-half the length of the long faces. - -Plan two strips of vellum to cover the narrow faces, and lap onto the -adjoining faces about 1”. Allow ½” at each end to turn over the edges. -For each of the three broad faces, plan a covering of lining paper -which shall allow an edge of vellum to show at the joints, and shall -lap over the other edges of the newsboard. Notice that these three -pieces are of three different sizes. - -Make dimensioned sketches of all pieces (See Plate XXXV) and lay -out and cut all parts. Along the folding lines of both newsboard -foundations, score and fold as explained in connection with the box. - -[Illustration: PLATE XXXV. Dimensioned sketches of the parts of the -postcard holder.] - -When pasting the vellum onto the outside case, it will be found of -great advantage to have blocks of wood to work around. If there is a -woodworking room in connection with the school, these blocks may well -be made there. They should be at least the full length of the case and -may project beyond the ends. Their thickness should be the width of -the narrow faces, and their width may be the same as that of the broad -faces, or narrower. If narrower, the blocks may be slipped along as the -vellum is being rubbed down. - -The strip of vellum for covering the outside is so large that it is -difficult for a child to cover it with paste, before a part of it has -dried. It is better, therefore, to paste a little more than enough for -one face at a time, rub this down, apply paste again, and so on to the -end. By putting the paste a little beyond were it is needed there is a -certainty of leaving no dry areas at the corners. - -[Illustration: PLATE XXXVI. An illustration of the method of covering -the outside of the case when a block of wood is used.] - -If blocks are to be used, paste together the two end divisions of the -newsboard, put the block inside, and paste on the strip of vellum. -Place one end of the vellum flush with one edge of the case, and cover -one broad face first. (See Plate XXXVI.) Before rubbing down the vellum -on the next face, be sure that it is pulled as closely as possible over -the edge, leaving no wrinkles or loose places. When all the faces have -been covered, there should remain a margin of vellum to lap onto the -face first covered. If this is pasted down very closely, it will be -almost invisible. - -If no blocks are available, three faces should be covered before -joining the two end pieces of newsboard, which should then be covered -as one piece. Lay each face as it is being pasted so that one edge is -at the edge of the desk or table, and allow the rest of the case to -hang over the side. (See Plate XXXVII.) In this way the faces may be -easily covered. Next make a longitudinal cut on the projecting vellum -as far as the newsboard at each corner of the case. The resulting laps -may then be easily pasted down onto the inside of the case. - -[Illustration: PLATE XXXVII. An illustration of the method of covering -the outside of the case when no block of wood is available.] - -Over the narrow faces of the inner holder paste the strips of vellum, -cut for this purpose. Paste and fold their ends over the edges of -the newsboard. These ends fit a little better if two slits are made -in each at the fold of the newsboard. Cover the broad faces with the -lining paper, turning and pasting the laps over the edges closely. -The corners should be cut as in the flat objects described in previous -articles. This inner part should not be pressed as a flat piece as this -would cause the paper to crack open when folded for use. - -If desired, the inside may be lined with white paper, in which case the -pieces should be put in separately instead of in one long strip. This -is difficult for any but most skillful workers. - -B. A holder of similar construction, but of convenient size to hold -note or letter paper makes an excellent filing case. - - - - -Problem XI - -SLIP BOX[4] - - TIME: 6 hours. - - MATERIALS: Newsboard, vellum, thin paper. - - -This box (Plate XXXVIII) by varying the size may be used for holding -pencils, checkers, a picture puzzle, or for other purposes. - -Accurately lay out the box on the newsboard as shown in the drawing and -cut on the outside lines, preferably with the cardboard cutter. Along -the edges of the base score with a sharp knife or strong pin and turn -up the sides with the lines outside. The corners should be stayed with -a strip of vellum as shown to hold the box in shape. - -Cut a strip of lining or other thin paper long enough to extend around -the box and lap over about ½ inch; the width should be at least one -inch greater than height of sides. Paste this strip to the sides of the -box allowing surplus width to extend equally above and below. - -At each corner of the box make cuts in the paper so that it may be -pasted to the inside of the box at one edge and to the bottom of the -box at the other. It is advised that no attempt be made to line either -the inside or the base. The case should be enough larger than the box -to allow the latter to slip easily but not fall out. By making each -side of the case ⅛ of an inch wider than the corresponding sides of -the box, this is accomplished. It will be noticed that three narrow -faces are shown in the drawing. Lap the broader outside face B over the -narrower one A and paste securely. This gives stability to the outside. - -Cut a strip of vellum long enough to paste around the box and extend -beyond it at least ½ inch at each end. Paste this to the foundation; at -each corner make cuts in the vellum, and paste projecting parts to the -inside of the foundation. - -[4] From “War Time Occupations.” - -[Illustration: PLATE XXXVIII.] - - - - -Problem XII - -A PORTFOLIO - - TIME: 6 hours. - - MATERIALS: Newsboard, vellum, cover paper, lining paper, tape. - - -(A). This portfolio consists of two foundation pieces of newsboard, -covered and lined with paper and joined by a back of vellum. Let the -size and shape of these covers be determined by the use to which they -are to be put. They may be for drawings, maps, compositions, etc. The -size of the newsboard will practically be the size of the finished -portfolio, and should be somewhat larger than the papers it is to hold. - -Plan the back, which consists of two pieces of vellum, wide enough to -allow for the space desired between the covers, and also to lap onto -each cover at least one inch. One piece of vellum should be long enough -to lap over the ends of the newsboard about ½ an inch, and the other -piece should be about ⅛ of an inch shorter than the newsboard. - -Plan the cover paper to be large enough to allow for ½ inch lap to fold -over the three free edges, but remember to allow a margin of vellum to -show at the other edge. Plan the lining paper to be small enough to -allow the foundation to extend beyond it at least ⅛ of an inch on all -sides. - -Make dimensioned sketches of all pieces and lay out and cut all parts. -(See Plate XXXIX.) Place the newsboard foundations on the short piece -of vellum the proper distance apart, with equal amounts of vellum -extending under each. The newsboard, of course, will extend at each end -a trifle beyond the vellum. When the proper position is determined, -draw pencil lines lengthwise of the vellum indicating the edge of each -cover. Put paste on the vellum and rub down well onto the newsboard -forming the inside of the hinge. To make sure that the upper and lower -edges of the covers are in a continuous straight line, place a rule -or straight edge against one cover, extending across and beyond the -vellum; place the second cover against the rule and the edges will be -in a straight line. (See Plate XL.) Paste the second piece of vellum -onto the outside and turn the projecting ends over the newsboard, -pasting them down. - -[Illustration: PLATE XXXIX. Dimensioned sketches of the parts of a -portfolio.] - -Properly place one foundation piece on the cover paper, allowing the -vellum to show where it laps onto the newsboard, and draw around -it. The amount of vellum which is to show is a problem in space -division. Just how much will look well on the particular cover under -consideration should be carefully thought out. - -Apply paste to the cover paper, noting that it requires more skill to -spread paste uniformly on a heavy paper than on vellum or lining paper. -Place one piece of newsboard on the paper as previously marked, turn -them over and rub down. A piece of cloth held in the hand and used for -rubbing the surface prevents finger marks; or the rubbing may be done -on a piece of paper laid over the surface. The cover paper should cling -firmly to the foundation at every point and this should be assured -before proceeding. Apply paste to the projecting laps, fold them over -and rub down. Treat the other half in the same manner. - -[Illustration: PLATE XL. Pasting the newsboard to the vellum back.] - -It is desirable to tie the portfolio together on one side at least. For -this purpose secure tape of harmonizing color and ⅜ or ½ inch in width. -About ½ an inch from and parallel to the front edges cut a slit through -both paper and newsboard of the same length as the width of the tape. -(This needs to be done with a knife or, better yet, with a chisel.) -Insert a piece of tape from 6 to 9 inches long in each slit and -securely paste at least 1 inch to the inside of the newsboard, allowing -the greater length to project from the outside. Paste the lining paper -on the inside of each half and this will cover the pasted end of the -tape. The portfolio is then complete. - -(B). By a different arrangement of tape the same kind of portfolio may -be used as a magazine holder or cover for a paper book or pamphlet. -Plan the newsboard foundations to project ⅛ of an inch beyond the book -on three sides. The space between the two pieces of newsboard should -be at least an inch greater than the thickness of the book so that the -covers will lie flat when the book is inside. It will be seen that with -so wide a space the inner edge of the newsboard will not extend as far -back as the back of the book, and in planning the newsboard it should -actually be narrower than the book. Make dimensioned sketches of all -pieces and lay out and cut all parts. - -[Illustration: PLATE XLI. A magazine in a stiff cover.] - -Construct the covers as for the portfolio, but insert the tape as -follows: About ¾ of an inch from both upper and lower edges of the back -cover, and just where the cover paper laps onto the vellum, make slits -of the same width as the tape and parallel to the edges. Push one end -of the tape through from the outside and paste, with the end turned -toward the edge. Carry the tape over the adjacent edge along inside -of the cover and over the opposite edge where it should be inserted in -the second slit and pasted on the inside as at the other end. A little -slackness of tape is not objectionable. The lining paper may come to -the edge of the tape, or, with more difficulty, be slipped under it. - -[Illustration: PLATE XLII. Simple borders suitable for use on a -portfolio.] - -When one cover of the book has been placed under the tape, it should -hold it securely. (See Plate XLI.) - -If desired, there is here an excellent opportunity for the application -of a cover design. This may consist of simple straight line borders -in lower grades, or of more elaborate designs in upper grades. (See -Plate XLII.) Lettering also may be used either singly or combined with -decorative figures. The design should be carefully planned before -any attempt is made to place it upon the finished cover. Erasures -are always noticeable and should be avoided. It is recommended that -straight lines should be drawn with a rule, and the distance of the -border from the edge measured either with a rule or a piece of paper. -The decoration may be applied with ink, crayons, or water color. Common -ink diluted gives the effect of a darker tone of the color of the paper -and as it is easily obtained it is on the whole a satisfactory medium. -(See Plate XLIII.) - -[Illustration: PLATE XLIII. Some cover designs made by students at the -Sloyd Training School, Boston, Mass.] - - - - -Problem XIII - -STATIONERY HOLDER - - TIME: 8 hours. - - MATERIALS: Newsboard, vellum and paper. - - -A very satisfactory stationery holder (see Plates XLIV and XLV) may -be made by substituting pockets, etc., for the plain lining of the -portfolio. Make the outside as described in Problem XII. Then cut for -each half, a piece of newsboard one-quarter of an inch shorter and -narrower than the outside pieces. Cover one of these smaller pieces -with the same paper that is used on the outside turning over a margin -of one-half an inch on each of the four sides. At each corner attach -suitable pieces for holding a blotter. (See page 33.) When pressed and -dried this forms a lining for one side. The other piece of newsboard -should be used as a foundation for a “bellows pocket” for holding -stationery. First bind one long edge with a strip of vellum having it -show on the upper surface for about an inch and a half. The pocket -should be made of vellum and when completed, should be as large as -the newsboard foundation. To give strength and stability to this cut -a piece of paper of the same size as the newsboard. Plan and cut a -piece of vellum 5 inches longer and an inch and a half wider than this. -Lay the paper lining on the vellum with an equal amount of vellum -projecting at each end, and fold the vellum over one long edge of the -paper for its entire length and to the depth of about one inch. Paste -the hem thus made to the paper but do not paste the broad face as this -will cause wrinkling. Then fold the vellum over each end of the paper -sharply and make a reverse fold one inch from the end. Place this -vellum on the newsboard with the hem of the pocket against the bound -edge of the newsboard, and on the other three sides turn over the -projecting vellum and paste to the under side of the newsboard. Before -pasting in this piece and the blotter for linings, a fastener or tape -should be inserted as already described. - -[Illustration: PLATE XLIV. Stationery Holders (closed) made by students -at the Boston School of Occupational Therapy.] - -The holder may be made more elaborate by adding a third page which -should be narrower than the other two and when folded together will -appear as a flap. Cut a piece of newsboard for its foundation and -fasten to one of the large pieces in the same manner as the two -large pieces are attached. To line this, cut a piece of newsboard -one-quarter of an inch shorter and narrower than the outside piece and -cover it with a single piece of vellum; or pockets may be added and a -strap for holding pen or pencil. - -Some very handsome cases can thus be made by using wall papers on the -broad faces. Narrow stripes or gold bands used as border decorations -on the corners of the blotter or the edge of the pockets are very -effective while figures well cut may be appliqued to the outside or the -inside. - -[Illustration: PLATE XLV. An open stationery holder made at the Boston -School of Occupational Therapy.] - -For fastening, use cord, tape or ribbon which should be inserted before -the linings are pasted in. To illustrate: Pass a ribbon across the -outside of the middle piece, putting each end through a slit--say one -inch from the edge--and glue these firmly to the newsboard. Through -a slit in the other broad face pass another length of ribbon on the -end of which shall be a Japanese bead; on the narrow face in similar -fashion attach a loop of ribbon (made by passing both ends through the -same slit). When closed the case may be fastened by putting the bead -through the loop. - -Another style of fastener consists of a cord or braid similarly -inserted with a fancy knot in place of the bead. - - - - -Problem XIV - -SEWING AND BINDING A BOOK - - TIME: 10 hours. - - MATERIALS: Newsboard,[5] vellum, cover paper, white paper, tape, - sewing linen, and “super.” - - -There are several ways of sewing a book and even more ways of binding -it after it is sewed. The first method here given is the simplest, -and is such as is feasible in a fifth or sixth grade without a sewing -frame, a press, or other apparatus than the simple tools required in -the previous problems. - -First determine the shape and size of the book. It is better at first -not to attempt a book which is very thick, seven to twelve signatures -being sufficient for a beginning. A “signature” is the name applied to -a folded sheet, several of which go to make up the inside of a book. If -the sheet is folded once it is called a “folio”; if twice, a “quarto”; -if three times, an “octavo.” (See Plate XLVI.) These signatures, when -sewed together, form what is technically known as “the book,” and the -covers and back “the case.” - -[5] A book-cover may be made of heavier newsboard than the articles -previously described, although in elementary grades it will probably be -more convenient to use one weight only. Number 30 is commonly used for -books of ordinary size (say 7½ × 5¼ inches), while for larger books (10 -× 7 inches) a still heavier board is used. - -With a piece of cheap paper experiment a little, folding it one or -more times and if necessary trimming the edges to change size or -proportions. When the size is determined, cut a sufficient number of -sheets, fold, and “stack” (pile) them for sewing. If the paper provided -is too small to be used for a “quarto,” place one “folio” inside -another which will give two thicknesses of paper at each fold and will -have the same effect as a “quarto.” If desired, two or three sheets -of paper may be placed together before folding so that there will be -several thicknesses at the back. - -[Illustration: PLATE XLVI. Diagram to show methods of folding sheets of -paper.] - -These signatures are to be sewed over three pieces of tape, one to -be at the middle of the fold, one from 1 to 1½ inches from each end, -according to the size of the pages. On the back of the first signature -mark carefully the position of the edges of each piece of tape, and -additional points ½ an inch from each end. The latter points show the -location of the “kettle stitches.” - -Replace this signature on the others and mark across the backs of all, -locating similar points on other signatures with as much accuracy as -possible. (See Plate XLVII.) The major folds should then be “jogged up” -evenly at the back, and the minor folds at the “head” or top. - -At each point on each signature make a hole for sewing by opening the -signatures and piercing through with a needle from the back. Replace -the signatures in the same order as before. Cut three pieces of tape -about three inches long. Place the first signature on the deck or table -with the fold of the back toward the operator. The left hand should be -placed inside the signature to receive and return the threaded needle -which is pushed through from the outside by the right hand. (See Plate -XLVIII.) Pass the thread in through the first hole (leaving an end -long enough for tying), out through the second hole, over the tape, in -through the third hole, out through the fourth hole, over the second -tape, in through the fifth hole, out through the sixth hole, over the -third tape, in through the seventh hole, and out through the eighth or -last hole of the signature. - -[Illustration: PLATE XLVII. Marking the signatures before stitching.] - -Close this signature and place the second signature on top of the -first; then pass the thread in through the eighth hole of the second -signature, and out through the seventh hole, over the tape, in through -the sixth hole and so on until the thread comes out through the first -hole. Tie the thread to the loose short end in a square or hard knot. -Place the third signature on top of the second and proceed as before. -On reaching the end of the third signature, pass the needle under the -stitch connecting the first and second signatures and through the -loop formed by the thread. (See Plate XLIX.) Pull tightly to form the -“kettle stitch” which should be made at the end of every signature -hereafter. In the same manner any number of signatures may thus be -sewed to form a book. - -[Illustration: PLATE XLVIII. Sewing a book over tapes.] - -For fly-leaves, prepare four single sheets folded once, to be of the -same size as the leaves of the book. Place these folded sheets one on -top of another leaving about ⅛ of an inch of the folded edge of each -exposed, the upper sheet being protected by a piece of waste paper. Rub -paste over the exposed surface of all four at the same time. (See Plate -L.) Remove the upper sheet and with its pasted edge downward place it -upon the front signature of the book, its folded edge being flush with -the folded edges of the sewed part, and the tapes thrown back out of -the way. After rubbing this sheet well down, open it and place the -second sheet inside the first, having its pasted edge downward also. -See that the folds exactly fit, and rub down the second sheet. Turn the -book over and repeat the process on the opposite side. (See page 93-D). -Before proceeding farther the “book” should be dried under weight. - -[Illustration: PLATE XLIX. The needle is in position to form the -“kettle stitch.”] - -[Illustration: PLATE L. Applying paste to the folds of the fly-leaves.] - -Lay the “book” flat on the desk and with a wooden mallet hammer the -folds at the back which will make the signatures lie close together. -Turn the “book” over and repeat the process. A few strokes are -sufficient. Cover the back with paste (or, if available, hot glue; do -not attempt cold), and rub it well in with the fingers that it may hold -the signatures together and prevent their spreading. Use only a thin, -even coat of paste; pull the tapes tightly across the back, and paste -their ends to the outside leaves. - -[Illustration: PLATE LI. Dimensioned sketches of the parts of a book.] - -Cut a strip of “super” a little shorter than the length of the back, -and wide enough to extend on to the fly-leaves about 1 inch. Place this -over the freshly pasted back and rub it well on. Paste the part of the -“super” which extends onto each side to the outside leaves over the -tapes. When perfectly dry cut off about two-thirds of the width of each -outside leaf, leaving a stub onto which the super and tapes are already -pasted. The ends of these stubs should be slanted by cutting from the -binding toward the front of the book. - -The “case,” which should be a trifle longer than the “book,” should -be constructed similarly to the portfolio but without tape or lining -paper, and with but one strip of vellum (the long one) on the back. -Plan to have the covers extend beyond the front and ends of the book -about ⅛ of an inch; but as the newsboard foundations should set forward -from the binding about ¼ of an inch. Their width should be a trifle -less than the width of the pages. Make dimensioned sketches of all -pieces and lay out and cut all parts. (See Plate LI.) - -Place the pieces of newsboard on each side of the “book” in the exact -position they are intended to occupy. Take a narrow strip of paper and -attach its ends to the outside of the pieces of newsboard (see Plate -LII) so that when the latter are removed from the “book” they will be -attached to each other the correct distance apart; that is the space -between them will be at least ½ an inch greater than the thickness of -the book. Place them on the vellum and trace along the inner edge of -each after ascertaining that the distance between them is the same at -both ends. Remove the paper which connects the covers and paste them to -the vellum in the position already marked out, but do not yet turn over -the ends of vellum. Cut a strip of heavy paper of just the width of -the back of the “book” and paste in the middle of the piece of vellum, -after which the ends of vellum should be turned over and pasted down. -Complete the “case” by pasting on the cover paper after which it should -be pressed and dried. - -[Illustration: PLATE LII. Determining the distance between covers.] - -When this is done place the “book” as far back in the “case” as it -is possible to do and be certain that the edges of the covers are in -alignment. Make tiny pencil marks at the front edge of the leaves -to guide the placing of the “book” after the paste is spread. When -necessary lines or points have been located remove the “book” from the -“case” and prepare to paste. - -Under the first whole leaf place a piece of newspaper considerably -larger than the “book” to protect the pages. Spread paste over the -surface of this leaf, first under the stub which should then be pushed -down with the brush to hold it securely to the outside leaf; then -cover the outside of the stub with paste. Place the “book” in the -“case” following the guide lines previously made, and press the covers -together with the hands. Lay the book on the desk or table with the -pasted half down. (See Plate LIII.) Open at the pasted leaf a very -little way and carefully rub the lining onto the cover, smoothing -out any wrinkles which may appear. Turn the book over and repeat the -process with the other cover. Do not open wide until the book has been -pressed. - -[Illustration: PLATE LIII. Pasting “book” inside the “cover.”] - -This should be done very effectually and for this purpose two boards -clamped together with handscrews make a better press than a weight. If -two thin pieces of tin, zinc, or blotting-paper are placed between the -“case” and the “book” while in press it will prevent the moisture from -being absorbed by the leaves, causing them to wrinkle. - - -VARIATIONS - -Several variations of the “case” are possible. - -(A). The simplest is to cover the outside corners with vellum. If -this is to be done, the vellum corners are to be applied before the -cover paper. The width of the corner piece, exclusive of the laps and -measured on a line bisecting the right-angle, should equal the width of -the strip of vellum which shows at the back. This rule holds true in -all high class bindings such as morocco, Levant, calf, etc. (See Plate -LIV.) - -By experimenting a little, a pattern (trapezoid) may be made for the -corner pieces by which to cut them. (See Plate LIV.) Plan these pieces -to extend under the paper at least ¼ of an inch. - -[Illustration: PLATE LIV. Diagram to illustrate the size of separate -corners, also method of cutting them.] - -After the cover paper has been cut in rectangular shape, according to -the original plan, the two outside corners should be trimmed to allow -the proper amount of vellum to show. This may be accomplished in one of -two ways. Using the same pattern as for the vellum corners, fit its two -opposite non-parallel edges as close to the corner as possible and cut -along the inside edge of the pattern. Or, one may place the newsboard -on the paper and trace around it, lay off the size of the finished -corner and cut on the resulting oblique line. After the vellum corners -have been pasted on firmly, place the cover paper carefully and paste -it on as already described. - -(B). After the “case” is completed in either of the two ways described, -it may be decorated with lettering or by the application of other -design. In this instance the suggestions given in connection with the -portfolio should be followed. - -(C). The entire “case” may be covered with vellum. Generally a cloth -covering is not desirable on a hand-sewed book, but if for a special -reason one is to be used, have a single piece of vellum cut large -enough to cover both back and sides. After finding the correct distance -between the two pieces of newsboard, lay them on the vellum, in the -manner already described, trace around them, and complete the “case” by -pasting. - - - - -Problem XV - -SEWING A BOOK ON A FRAME - - TIME AND MATERIALS: As for Problem X, except bookbinder’s twine is to - be used instead of tape. - - -To carry out this problem a few common wood-working tools will be -necessary. A sewing frame may be made by older pupils, a working -drawing for which is here given. (See Plate LV.) - -The wooden upright screws may be purchased. Instead of tapes the book -is to be sewed on bookbinder’s twine. Cut three pieces 6 inches longer -than the distance between the upper and lower bars. Tie one end of each -securely to the upper bar and slide them along to position. (See Plate -LVI.) Tie the other ends to the lower bar, pulling them as taut as -possible. - -The signatures should be “jogged up” and carefully placed in a vise, -back up and extending above the jaws about half an inch. It may be -better (depending on the shape and size of the vise) to place the -signatures between two boards, and then the whole in the vise. On the -back of one signature mark off the position of the “kettle stitches” -and twine 5 points in all--and, if T-square, try square or triangle -are available, square lines across; otherwise lay off these points on -both outside signatures and thus insure cuts which shall be “square -across” the back. At each point saw across all signatures with a back -saw, making a cut about ⅛ of an inch deep. Hold the saw perfectly -horizontally, that the cuts may be of uniform depth on all signatures. -If vise and saw are not available, V-cuts may be made on each signature -with scissors instead. - -[Illustration: PLATE LV. Working drawing of sewing-frame.] - -To sew a printed book, begin at the front with the “head” toward the -right. Place the first signature on the frame (page 1 down), with the -back toward the operator and the three inside cuts against the twine, -leaving the cuts at the ends for the “kettle stitches.” If necessary, -move the pieces of twine along the bars so that they exactly fit the -cuts and sink into them. (See Plate LVI). Tighten the twine by turning -the wooden nuts and commence to sew. Hold the signature open with the -left hand, and, commencing at the head, (right) insert the needle from -the outside through the first hole. Bring the thread out through the -second hole on the right of the twine, cross it, and return the thread -through the same hole on the left of the twine. It will be seen that -this process is virtually the same as sewing over tapes. Continue -across the first signature and, when completed, close it, lay the -second signature on top, and, in the same manner, sew across it from -left to right. Pull the sewing threads tightly and always forward in -the direction of the sewing. If they are pulled backward, the paper -will be torn. - -[Illustration: PLATE LVI. A sewing-frame in use.] - -After sewing across the second signature, tie the thread to the loose -end as in a book sewed on tapes. When the third signature has been -sewed, make loop stitch as already illustrated, (forming a part of the -“kettle stitch”) and repeat this stitch at the end of each signature. -When the sewing is finished, grasp the book firmly and slide it up on -the cords about 1½ inches; then cut the twine from the frame, leaving -about 1¼ inches projecting beyond the book on both sides. Pull the -twine with both hands to straighten it. Put in fly-leaves and “super” -and bind as before. The ends of the twine should be frayed out, and, -after the fly-leaves are in, pasted in fan-shape to the outside leaf. -Put on the case as shown in Problem XIV. - - -ADDITIONAL POINTS - -(A). The binding may be made stronger by “whip-stitching” the -fly-leaves after they are pasted in. For this purpose, take an ordinary -sewing needle (about No. 2) and linen thread (No. 35). Begin at the -right and, with “over-and-over” stitches about ¼ of an inch apart, sew -through the outside signature and the fly-leaves. A knot should be made -at each end to fasten the threads. Turn the book over and repeat the -operation on the opposite side. - -(B). If heavy paper is used for the fly-leaves, the outside leaf should -be torn or cut off carefully before putting on the case. Leave just a -narrow margin at the fold to hold the other half from coming out. This -being done, there is but one thickness with which to line the cover, -but two free leaves are left as before. - -(C). Head-bands may be used on a book sewed on a frame. Cut pieces to -fit across the back of the book and paste one at each end after the -“super” has been pasted on. - -(D). Any book is made more attractive by using colored “end papers” -or fly-leaves. These may be of the same material as the cover or of -contrasting material. A small surface pattern worked out in crayon or -water color for this purpose makes an excellent problem in applied -design and at the same time adds much to the appearance of the book. -When using any paper for fly-leaves which has a right and wrong side, -the sheets should be folded wrong side out. Note that only two folios -of colored paper should be used while the other two are white--that is -at each end of the “book” there will be one white folio with a colored -one inside it. When stacking the sheets to apply the paste, place a -colored sheet at the bottom, then a white sheet, then a colored sheet, -and a white sheet on top. When pasting these to the book, this brings -a white sheet first and a colored sheet inside, so that when pasted to -the “case” one-half forms its lining and the other half is free. - - - - -Problem XVI - -REBINDING A PAPER-COVERED BOOK - - TIME AND MATERIALS: As for Problem XIV or XV except the “book.” - - -Signatures for sewing may be obtained by taking apart some good paper -covered book. Foreign books frequently come in this shape, and are much -less expensive than in any other binding. - -Carefully remove the cover and the sewing threads, if any, and scrape -the glue from the back. Then proceed with the sewing and binding as -already described. - -It may be desired to have fly-leaves of lithographed or lining paper. -In this case have two rather heavy sheets of such paper folded once -with the plain side out, and two folded sheets of white paper. When -pasting these onto the book, place a white sheet first, and then place -a figured sheet inside it. When completed, each cover will have a -lining of figured paper faced by a fly-leaf of the same, and a plain -second fly-leaf next to the printed pages. - - - - -Problem XVII - -BINDING NEW PRINTED SHEETS - - TIME AND MATERIALS: As for Problem XIV or XV except the “book.” - - -Unsewed but printed signatures may sometimes be obtained from a printer -or publisher. Fold and assemble the sheets, using great care to observe -the correct order. Sew and bind by one of the methods already given. - - - - -Problem XVIII - -REBINDING AN OLD BOOK - - TIME AND MATERIALS: As for Problem XIV or XV except the “book.” - - -A school book whose leaves are still in good condition, but with broken -cover or loose binding, may often be preserved for much longer service -by rebinding. Sometimes one has a worn book which has personal value, -and a new cover is desired. - -First remove the old covers, being careful not to injure the leaves, -pull out the sewing threads and remove glue, “super,” and fly-leaves. - -Some repairing may also be necessary. Torn edges may be pasted together -or faced with gummed tissue, or, if the tears are not to deep, the -edges may be trimmed off. - -Broken places in the folds may be mended if necessary by using strips -of paper about 1 inch in width and as long as the leaves. If many -strips are pasted onto the folds, the back of the book will be thick -and bulky. For this reason, a thin tough paper should be used. Paste -the fold of two adjoining leaves lengthwise on the center of one of -these strips, so placed that, however badly torn, the leaves will -assume their proper position, and the extra piece will be on the -outside of the fold. - -Illustrations are usually printed on a single sheet, often of paper -different from the leaves of the book. To insert these, cover the back -with a piece of waste paper, leaving a margin along one edge as in -the case of the fly-leaf. Cover this margin with paste and insert the -leaf in its proper place, pasting it down to the adjacent leaf. The -illustration should usually be on the right of the book. - -When all repairing has been done, re-assemble the signatures and bind -as a new book. - - - - -ORIGINAL PROBLEMS - - -A final test of the pupil’s efficiency lies in his ability to plan and -carry to completion an original project. Originality does not consist -in making an article never heard of before, but in adapting to one’s -specific needs, principles and processes already learned through class -instruction. - -A fitting close to a course in elementary book-binding is such a -problem. If pupils choose to make articles such as the memorandum pad -or the hinged covers which have already been taught, they should be -accepted as original work, provided that each pupil selects the size -and proportions himself, and does not depend on the teacher to repeat -the instruction in detail. Yet more credit should be given one whose -originality extends further as in the case of a boy who made for his -father’s use a holder for conductor’s checks, or the one who made a -mount for telephone numbers. - -All articles constructed should be such as are appropriately made of -the materials used. Models, such as are sometimes made of cardboard, -to be constructed later of different materials should be excluded from -this course. - -It is by no means essential or desirable that originality be held in -abeyance until the end of the course but rather, it should be fostered -during each succeeding lesson. The pupils who work more rapidly than -the average of the class may always have on hand an extra piece of work -to be done when the regular assignment has been completed. - -The adaptation of any problem to a specific purpose should always be -considered an opportunity for the development of class originality. For -example, a principal may want several portfolios in which to keep a -particular kind of papers; or a set of hinged covers to hold a “Course -of Study” may be desired for each teacher’s desk. These should be -considered class problems and worked out as such. - -It should be continually borne in mind that the object of the course is -the development of the child. When he is conscious of the ability to -make an article of intrinsic value a long step has been taken. “To help -the pupil to help himself” is the highest aim of education. - - - - -TEAM WORK - - -Some of these problems may be given, especially in older classes as -“team work.” The class may be divided into sections doing specific -parts of the work under a foreman. - -This method is a good one when the aim is the output or when an insight -into the construction of articles in large quantities is desired. - - - - -AFTERWORD - - -The border-line between educational handwork and technical bookbinding -has now been reached, and it is not the writer’s purpose to cross -it. If this book of problems assists others in solving the quest for -interesting and educational handwork, its mission will have been -accomplished. - - - - - Transcriber’s Notes: - - Italics are shown thus: _sloping_. - - Small capitals have been capitalised. - - Variations in spelling and hyphenation are retained. - - Perceived typographical errors have been changed. - -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BOOKBINDING FOR BEGINNERS *** - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the -United States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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Thus, we do not -necessarily keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper -edition. - -Most people start at our website which has the main PG search -facility: www.gutenberg.org - -This website includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. diff --git a/old/68844-0.zip b/old/68844-0.zip Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index bce6473..0000000 --- a/old/68844-0.zip +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/68844-h.zip b/old/68844-h.zip Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 7f78402..0000000 --- a/old/68844-h.zip +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/68844-h/68844-h.htm b/old/68844-h/68844-h.htm deleted file mode 100644 index 1e3710a..0000000 --- a/old/68844-h/68844-h.htm +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3736 +0,0 @@ -<!DOCTYPE html> -<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> -<head> - <meta charset="UTF-8" /> - <title> - Bookbinding For Beginners, by Florence O. Bean—A Project Gutenberg eBook - </title> - <link rel="icon" href="images/cover.jpg" type="image/x-cover" /> - <style> /* <![CDATA[ */ - -body { - margin-left: 10%; - margin-right: 10%; -} - - h1,h2 { - text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ - clear: both; -} - -h1 { - font-weight: normal; - word-spacing: .6em; - } - -h2 {font-weight: normal;} - -p { - margin-top: .51em; - text-align: justify; - margin-bottom: .49em; -} - -.p2 {margin-top: 2em;} -.p4 {margin-top: 4em;} -.p6 {margin-top: 6em;} - -hr { - width: 33%; - margin-top: 2em; - margin-bottom: 2em; - margin-left: 33.5%; - margin-right: 33.5%; - clear: both; -} - -hr.full {width: 95%; margin-left: 2.5%; margin-right: 2.5%;} - - -div.chapter {page-break-before: always;} -h2.nobreak {page-break-before: avoid;} - - -table { - margin-left: auto; - margin-right: auto; - font-size: 90%; -} - -.tdl {text-align: left;} -.tdlp {text-align: left; - padding-left: 2em;} -.tdlp2 {text-align: left; - padding-left: 20.5em;} -.tdc {text-align: center;} - -.pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ - /* visibility: hidden; */ - position: absolute; - left: 92%; - font-size: smaller; - text-align: right; - font-style: normal; - font-weight: normal; - font-variant: normal; - text-indent: 0; -} /* page numbers */ - - -.blockquot { - margin-left: 5%; - margin-right: 10%; - font-size: 90%; -} - -.xlarge {font-size: 140%;} -.large {font-size: 120%;} -.less {font-size: 90%;} -.more {font-size: 80%;} -.med {font-size: 70%;} - -.c {text-align: center;} - -.sp {word-spacing: 0.2em;} - -p.drop-cap { - text-indent: -0.2em; -} - -p.drop-cap:first-letter -{ - float: left; - margin: 0.08em 0.1em 0em 0em; - font-size: 270%; - line-height:0.85em; -} - -.r {text-align: right; - margin-right: 2em;} - -.caption {text-align: center; - font-size: 80%; - word-spacing: 0.2em;} - -.caption1 {text-align: justify; - font-size: 80%; - word-spacing: 0.2em; - margin-left: 25%; - margin-right: 20%;} - - -.bbox {border: double thick; - padding: .5em; - margin: 5% 10% 5% 10%;} - -.right {text-align: right;} - -.smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} - -.gesperrt -{ - letter-spacing: 0.2em; - margin-right: -0.2em; -} - -em.gesperrt -{ - font-style: normal; -} - -/* Images */ - -img { - max-width: 100%; - height: auto; -} - - -.figcenter { - margin: auto; - text-align: center; - page-break-inside: avoid; - max-width: 100%; -} - -.figcenter1 { - padding-top: 4em; - margin: auto; - text-align: center; - page-break-inside: avoid; - max-width: 100%; -} -/* Footnotes */ - -.footnote {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 0.9em;} - -.footnote .label {position: absolute; right: 84%; text-align: right;} - -.fnanchor { - vertical-align: super; - font-size: .8em; - text-decoration: - none; -} - - -/* Transcriber's notes */ -.transnote {background-color: #E6E6FA; - color: black; - font-size:smaller; - padding:0.5em; - margin-bottom:5em; - font-family:sans-serif, serif; } - - /* ]]> */ </style> -</head> -<body> -<p style='text-align:center; font-size:1.2em; font-weight:bold'>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Bookbinding for beginners, by Florence Ordway Bean</p> -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online -at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you -are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the -country where you are located before using this eBook. -</div> - -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: Bookbinding for beginners</p> -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Authors: Florence Ordway Bean</p> -<p style='display:block; margin-top:0; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em;'>John C. Brodhead</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: August 26, 2022 [eBook #68844]</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</p> - <p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; text-align:left'>Produced by: Alan, Peter Becker and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive)</p> -<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BOOKBINDING FOR BEGINNERS ***</div> - - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/cover.jpg" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</span></p> - -<div class="bbox"> - -<h1> -<span class="xlarge">BOOKBINDING</span><br /> -<span class="large">FOR BEGINNERS</span></h1> - -<p class="c p4 sp"><span class="xlarge">By FLORENCE O. BEAN</span><br /> -<span class="less">Assistant in Manual Arts<br /> -Boston Public Schools</span></p> - -<p class="c p2 sp"><span class="large">JOHN C. BRODHEAD</span><br /> -<span class="less">Assistant Superintendent<br /> -Boston Public Schools<br /> -Collaborating</span></p> - - -<p class="c p6 sp"> -————<br /> -SECOND EDITION<br /> -————</p> - - -<p class="c p4 sp"><span class="more">PUBLISHED BY</span><br /> -THE DAVIS PRESS<br /> -<span class="med">Worcester, Mass.<br /> -1918</span> -</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</span></p> - - -<p class="c p4 sp"> -<span class="more">Copyright 1914</span><br /> -<span class="smcap">School Arts Publishing Company</span><br /> -————<br /> -<span class="more">Second Edition<br /> -Copyright 1918</span><br /> -<span class="smcap">The Davis Press</span> -</p> - -<hr class="full x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">INTRODUCTION</h2> -</div> - - -<p class="drop-cap">THE present day demand for industrial education has -had the effect of somewhat discrediting the more -formal manual training commonly found in the upper elementary -grades and early high school years. This work is -usually conducted in special shops and by special teachers, -and the question is being raised whether, with all these advantages, -more vital results might not be attained.</p> - -<p>Whether these criticisms are justified or not, the present -interest in industrial education is strengthening the demand -for more effective construction work in grades four, five and -six. It is a growing conviction that there must be laid, in -the earlier grades, a strong foundation on which to build a -practical education in the later grades whether directed -toward industrial, commercial or professional life.</p> - -<p>The appearance of this book, therefore, is timely because -it outlines a course suitable for grades five and six -which stimulates constructive activities and develops industrial -intelligence. It should be noted that its industrial -significance is much wider than its title, “Bookbinding for -Beginners,” would indicate, as even a hasty examination of -the book will show, and also that it is so planned that it -may be used successfully in schools where special teachers -and expensive equipments are impossible.</p> - -<p>The book is different from, and, I believe, superior to -others of its kind for the following reasons:</p> - -<p>First, because the projects it presents, the methods -it advises, and the results it anticipates have all been worked -out by actual experience with thousands of boys and under -conditions which may be duplicated in almost any schoolroom. -The author’s personal experience with the problems<span class="pagenum" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</span> -incident to the giving of manual training by the grade -teacher includes that which she gained as a successful grade -teacher herself, supplemented by some years of supervisory -work in a large city system. She is therefore conversant -with every possible phase of the school problem.</p> - -<p>Second, because the methods of instruction which the -book employs are such as to develop in the pupils the very -qualities which are the surest foundation for subsequent -success in manual or mental work of any kind, namely -initiative and originality combined with intelligent, logical, -careful attention to details.</p> - -<p>Third, because it gives the teacher just the help needed -to save her from all unnecessary work in securing and handling -suitable material, in stimulating the pupils to intensive -activity and self-expression, and in judging or measuring -the results of her work, without relieving her of the necessity -of intelligent effort on her part. It thus gives the overburdened -teacher the maximum help, and the specially interested, -the maximum opportunity for original supplementary -work.</p> - -<p>For the above reasons I confidently recommend the -volume to the attention of all who are seeking to introduce -an inexpensive but effective form of manual training into -the middle grades of the elementary schools.</p> - -<p class="r large"> -Frank M. Leavitt</p> - -<p class="right more"> -Associate Professor, Industrial Education.<br /> -University of Chicago. -</p> -<hr class="full x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">FOREWORD</h2> -</div> - - -<p class="drop-cap">THE growing demand for various forms of manual training -in the lower elementary grades has led to the publication -of this little volume of “problems in elementary -bookbinding,” based on the work done in the fifth grade of -the Boston public schools, where their practicability has -been fully demonstrated. Some of the most valuable suggestions -have been obtained from the teachers and are an -outgrowth of their classroom experience. Nothing is here -presented which is simply theoretical.</p> - -<p>To Mr. John C. Brodhead, a deep appreciation of his -keen criticism, his helpful suggestions, and his never-failing -interest cannot be too strongly expressed. For their valued -suggestions, thanks are due the teachers of Boston whose -efficient labors have insured the success of the course. Acknowledgment -is also made of indebtedness to the Sloyd -Training School for material, and to Miss Helen E. Cleaves -and Mr. Ludwig Frank for their interest and assistance in -the details pertaining to design.</p> - -<p class="r large"><span class="smcap">The Author.</span></p> - - -<hr class="full x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig1.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">BOOKBINDING FOR BEGINNERS</p> -</div> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap">AMONG the various materials which lend themselves -readily to a manual training course with large classes -are those of the bookbinders’ craft. They are inexpensive, -easily handled, and require no tools or equipment that cannot -be used in an ordinary classroom. The operations -necessary in the use of these materials not only give excellent -training in manual dexterity, but present remarkable opportunities -for the practical application of studies in proportion, -space division, color, lettering and applied design. The craft -itself is one that comes in touch with everyday life and any -skill acquired in the use of these materials is of permanent -value.</p> - -<p>The lessons to be outlined in the following series presuppose -some instruction in paper-folding, cardboard construction, -and simple mechanical drawing. Though desirable, -this is not essential. While in some ways better suited -to the middle grades of the elementary schools, selection -may be made from the lessons here outlined which will give -excellent training to the upper grades in those schools where -the curriculum does not include shop-work, cooking, or -sewing.</p> - -<p>To secure this flexibility of the course, each problem -is outlined in several ways, with varying degrees of difficulty. -The selection should depend upon the grade in which it is -to be given. Some of the more dexterous pupils may be -able to work out a problem in several ways.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</span></p> - -<p>In each lesson outlined, there is a chance for the exercise -of individuality in the details of the model as to size, shape, -decoration, and color. Concerning choice of material, it -seems wiser that this should be exercised by the teacher or -supervisor rather than by the pupil.</p> - -<p>The object of the course is educational, not industrial, -therefore, those methods which stimulate inventiveness, -ability to plan simple work, and dependence on one’s own -initiative are most desirable.</p> - -<p>The directions given under each problem have been so -worded that they call for the greatest amount of thought and -initiative on the part of the worker. The use of such instruction -develops power to think, to plan constructive work and -to carry it to completion. At first, it may be necessary for -the teacher to elaborate some points especially in connection -with the working drawings or sketches, but after a little -training, each pupil should be able to lay out and cut all -parts from his own drawings; as the work progresses, he -should depend less and less upon the teacher’s assistance -in making his plans.</p> - -<p>High standards of work and correct processes should -always be set before the pupil, and these are best assured by -the teacher becoming thoroughly conversant not only with -the general construction of an article to be made, but with -the best methods of securing neat and accurate results. -Eventually, the pupil’s mental attainments will show in the -tangible work of his hands.</p> - -<p>Two hours each week for one school year may profitably -be devoted to this work. In the upper grades some of the -easier problems should be omitted, and more time devoted -to actually bookbinding, introducing as much variety as -time and materials will allow.</p> -<hr class="full x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">EQUIPMENT</h2> -</div> - - -<p>This equipment is sufficient for the whole course and -should last for several years. A strong wooden box with -compartments insures an orderly arrangement of tools and -prevents breakage. Several rooms may use one equipment -and by means of the box, transportation is greatly facilitated. -Some system of distributing and collecting material -should be devised, and not more than five minutes consumed -in making preparations for work.</p> - -<p class="less">One for each pupil</p> - -<div class="blockquot"> -<p> -Rule<br /> -Pr. 6-inch Scissors<br /> -Pencil, medium<br /> -Tapestry Needle, No. 17<br /> -Wooden Triangle, 45°, 7-inch<br /> -</p></div> - -<p class="less">For class use, the number to be governed by the way in which they are -to be used, by the amount of money to be expended. For twenty-five -pupils, 12 paste-brushes and 5 punches answer very well.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"> -<p> -Paste-brushes 1 inch flat<br /> -Eyelet Punches<br /> -</p></div> - -<p class="less">One of each helpful, but not necessary</p> - -<div class="blockquot"> -<p> -Paper Cutter, 12 inch to 15 inch<br /> -Straight Edge<br /> -Large Shears<br /> -</p> -</div> -<hr class="full x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">MATERIALS</h2> -</div> - - -<p>The materials necessary for this course may be purchased -from any of the large school supply houses, or from -dealers in bookbinders’ supplies. Before an order is given, -it is recommended that the materials be seen, at least in -sample, as names sometimes vary in different commercial -houses. The sizes and prices are also liable to variation. -In selecting colored papers, avoid brilliant hues, and choose -soft colors.</p> - -<table> - -<tr> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">For Stiff Foundation</span></td> - <td class="tdc">Approximate<br /> - size</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="tdlp">Newsboard</td> - <td class="tdc">26” × 38”</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="tdlp">Newsboard is in reality a box board, and differs from binders’ board -in the quality of the fibre. But for such articles as are described in -this course, it is the more satisfactory of the two. Both newsboard -and binders’ board are sold in bundles each weighing 50 lbs. The -board is numbered according to the number of sheets in the bundle. -Thus No. 50 means that the bundle contains 50 sheets. Board of -this number is light in weight, easily handled by small children, and -is well suited to the articles here described. Most book covers are -made of No. 30 (30 sheets to the bundle), which is twice as thick as -No. 60. The sheets of newsboard are rather large to be handled conveniently. -If desired, they will be cut in quarters by the dealer at -slight expense.</td> - <td class="tdc"></td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">For Covering Foundation</span></td> - <td class="tdc"></td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="tdlp">Vellum de luxe</td> - <td class="tdc">38” wide</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="tdlp">Vellum de luxe is a sized and tinted cloth of an inexpensive grade of -cotton, which is quite suitable for the purposes of this course. If -material of a higher grade is desired, art canvas, art vellum, etc., -may be purchased. These come in a great variety of colors. It -is better to use but one color in the class for economy’s sake, but, -if this is not to be considered, different articles may be of different -colors. Choose quiet colors such as “old blue,” “dull green,” -“deep red.”</td> - <td class="tdc"></td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="tdlp">Cover Paper (light weight)</td> - <td class="tdc">22” × 28”</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Wall Paper</span><span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</span></td> - <td class="tdc"></td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="tdlp">By observing a harmony of coloring between paper and vellum some -beautiful results may be obtained. If one is fortunate enough to secure -a “sample book” there is a chance for great variety. If it must be -purchased outright two or three well chosen patterns will suffice.</td> - <td class="tdc"></td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">For Lining</span></td> - <td class="tdc"></td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="tdlp">Marbled Paper</td> - <td class="tdc">20” × 25”</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="tdlp">Bark wove Paper</td> - <td class="tdc">24” × 36”</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">For Limp Covers</span></td> - <td class="tdc"></td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="tdlp">Screenings</td> - <td class="tdc">24” × 36”</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="tdlp">Cover Paper</td> - <td class="tdc">22” × 36”</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="tdlp">Kraft Paper</td> - <td class="tdc">24” × 36”</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="tdlp">Drawing Paper (gray)</td> - <td class="tdc">9” × 12”</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="tdlp">Red Rope manila</td> - <td class="tdc">24” × 36”</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="tdlp">Oak tag stock</td> - <td class="tdc">9” × 12”</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="tdlp">Tough check</td> - <td class="tdc">22” × 28”</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">For Inside</span></td> - <td class="tdc"></td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="tdlp">Page Paper</td> - <td class="tdc">17” × 22”</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="tdlp">Page Paper</td> - <td class="tdc">8½” × 11”</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="tdlp">Drawing Paper (white)</td> - <td class="tdc">9” × 12”</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="tdlp">Drawing Paper (gray)</td> - <td class="tdc">9” × 12”</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="tdlp">Drawing Paper (man.)</td> - <td class="tdc">9” × 12”</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="tdlp">Newspaper (white)</td> - <td class="tdc">6” × 9”</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">For Stitching and Sewing</span></td> - <td class="tdc"></td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="tdlp">Linen Thread</td> - <td class="tdc">40 yds. to skein</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="tdlp">Silk</td> - <td class="tdc">4 yds. to skein</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="tdlp">Raffia (plain)</td> - <td class="tdc">4 oz. package</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="tdlp">Raffia (colored)</td> - <td class="tdc">4 oz. package</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Paste</span></td> - <td class="tdc"></td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="tdlp">Most of the various pastes on the market serve very well the needs -of these problems. A far less expensive and quite as satisfactory a -paste may be made from wheat or rice flour provided one has the simplest -facilities for boiling. Take two tablespoonfuls of flour and wet -with warm water. Over this pour one pint of boiling water and boil -three minutes. ½ teaspoonful of powdered alum added to this will keep -it sweet for some time. If an extra strong paste is desired a small -quantity of glue may be added to the paste while it is still hot. If solid -glue is used this should first be dissolved in hot water.</td> - <td class="tdc"></td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Accessories</span><span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</span></td> - <td class="tdc"></td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="tdlp">Eyelets</td> - <td class="tdc">250 in box</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="tdlp">Purchase eyelets of the same make as the eyelet punch (see list of -equipment), since those of a different make are not always an exact -fit.</td> - <td class="tdc"></td></tr> - -</table> - - -<table> - -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Macreme cord</td> - <td class="tdlp2">8 oz.</td> - <td class="tdl">ball</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Tape (white)</td> - <td class="tdlp2">4 yds.</td> - <td class="tdl">in a piece</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Tape (colored)</td> - <td class="tdlp2">10 yds.</td> - <td class="tdl">in a piece</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Stay Tape (cloth)</td> - <td class="tdlp2">¾”</td> - <td class="tdc">wide</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="tdc">“ “ (paper)</td> - <td class="tdlp2"> ¾”</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="tdc">“ “ (cloth)</td> - <td class="tdlp2">1”</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="tdc">“ “ (paper)</td> - <td class="tdlp2">1”</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="tdc">“ “ (cloth)</td> - <td class="tdlp2">1¼”</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="tdc">“ “ (paper)</td> - <td class="tdlp2">1¼”</td> - <td class="tdc">“</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Super</td> - <td class="tdlp2">1 yd.</td> - <td class="tdc">wide</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Bookbinder’s Twine</td> - <td class="tdlp2">½ lb.</td> - <td class="tdc">ball</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Head Bands</td> - <td class="tdlp2">Different</td> - <td class="tdl">widths</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Gummed Tissue</td> - <td class="tdlp2">Roll or</td> - <td class="tdl">Envelope</td></tr> - -<tr> - <td class="tdl"></td> - <td class="tdlp2">of 5 or 6</td> - <td class="tdl">yds.</td></tr> - - - -</table> - - -<hr class="full x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</span></p> - -<p class="c">Problem I</p> -</div> - -<p class="c large">BOOKLET</p> - - -<p class="less"> -<span class="smcap">Time</span>: 4 hours.<br /> -<span class="smcap">Materials</span>: For the inside, any of the paper so listed.<br /> -For the cover, any of the paper so listed.<br /> -For stitching, any material so listed. -</p> - -<p>The simplest form of a book consists of a cover and -inside sheets in a single fold, sewed through the center. -Choose materials from the lists given.</p> - -<p>Three definite methods of working out this problem -are here outlined, arranged in the order of their difficulty. -Other combinations will suggest themselves.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Method A.</span> First determine the purpose for which the -booklet is to be used, and decide on shape and size of page -best suited to this purpose. If for spelling or pocket memoranda, -it may be long and narrow; if for language a larger -page is desirable; or if for map work, the size and shape of -the maps should be considered. Take any sheet of paper and -experiment in folding to obtain satisfactory size and proportions.</p> - -<p>A single sheet of paper folded through the center is called -a folio. This sheet will be twice the width of a page and of -the same length. (Commercially, a folio is made from paper -varying from 22 × 16 to 44 × 32. Therefore, books to which -this term is applied are generally of large size.)</p> - -<p>With pencil and rule draw a plan of the open folio and -properly dimension the drawing. (See Plate I.)</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig2.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption1"><span class="smcap">Plate I.</span> Accurate working drawings and freehand sketches<br /> -such as children should produce before making the booklet.</p> -</div> - -<p>If there has been no previous training in simple mechanical -drawing, the use of extension and dimension lines, arrow -heads, and the proper placing of figures should be explained. -If some proficiency in this kind of drawing has been acquired, -a freehand sketch may take the place of an accurate drawing.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</span> -Plate II shows some of the line conventions used in making -a working drawing.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig3.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Plate II.</span> Line Conventions.</p> -</div> - -<p>In the same manner as for the pages, draw a plan of the -cover, which should project beyond the pages from ⅛ to <span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</span>¼ -of an inch. Lay out and cut the cover and one sheet for the -inside, keeping carefully on the lines.</p> - -<p>Having cut one sheet of the inside, lay the sheet on as -many pieces of the paper as are needed, (from three to seven -make a booklet of desirable thickness); then make a hole -with a pin or needle at each corner, piercing all at one time. -On each sheet draw the four sides, using rule and pencil. -This is easier than to measure each one. The folded -sheets should be placed one inside the other to form the -inside of the booklet, and the whole placed inside the folded -cover, with the edges of the cover projecting slightly.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig4.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Plate III.</span> Sketches illustrating a simple method of stitching a booklet.</p> -</div> - -<p>With a needle make a hole through the center of the -fold, and another near each end of the fold (from one-half an -inch to an inch and a half from the end) according to the -size of the booklet, as shown in Plate III. With thread or -raffia sew through the center hole, from the inside out, back -to the inside through an end hole, outside through the center -hole, inside through the other end hole, and tie the ends in a -square knot (see illustration, Plate IV) near the center of -the fold. Other equally satisfactory methods of sewing may -be worked out.</p> - -<p>B. Determine the purpose of the booklet first and then -its size and shape. As in A draw plans of the inside and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</span> -cover. With rule and pencil lay out parts on materials to be -used. Cut and sew as in A.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig5.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Plate IV.</span> The position of the threads<br /> -in tying a square knot.</p> -</div> - -<p>Simple lettering on the cover adds much to the appearance -of the booklet. Choose a title appropriate to its contemplated -use, as “<span class="smcap">Notes</span>,” “<span class="smcap">Sketches</span>,” etc., which -should be executed in rather large Roman capitals. On a -separate sheet, mark out an oblong of height and width -desired for the title and practise on this. If title is long, -make letters narrow, if short, letters may be broadened, to -fill up more space. When satisfactory results are obtained, -cut out and place on the cover, moving up and down to -determine its best position. The base line of the title -should be placed below the top at one-fifth to one-quarter of -the entire distance from the top to the bottom of the cover. -After the position is determined, the title should be transferred -either by tracing or copying. The pupil’s name in -much smaller capitals should be worked out in the same manner -and placed below the center with a somewhat wider margin -at the base than at the top. Do not enclose the title in -an oblong or other figure. A single or double line as a -border around the cover looks well, if carefully done. (See -illustration, Plate V.)</p> - -<p>C. For the cover use gray drawing paper, tinted, other -materials as desired.</p> - -<p>Draw plans as in A and B. A larger surface than required -for the cover should be tinted before it is marked out,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</span> -so that any streaking along the edge may be cut off. To mix -a wash of the color selected, put two or three tablespoonfuls -of water in the water-cup and add a little paint until the -desired tone is produced, being quite sure to have enough -to cover the whole surface. Try to have the wash clean, not -muddy, and beware of too much paint! The colors should -be soft, not crude, and somewhat neutralized by the addition -of the complementary color. The best results are produced -by the use of green, pale yellow, brown, dull orange, and red. -Blue is very likely to streak and is seldom satisfactory.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig6.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption1"><span class="smcap">Plate V.</span> The simplest possible designs for book<br /> -covers, involving good spacing and careful lettering.</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</span></p> - -<p>When ready to apply the wash, place the paper on an -inclined surface—45° or more from the horizontal. A sheet -of heavy cardboard or a book answers this purpose admirably. -With a full brush make a horizontal stroke across the -top of the paper. The second stroke should be just below -this leaving no dry spots between. Being careful to keep the -brush full of paint, continue in this manner until the entire -surface is covered. The surplus amount of paint which will -settle along the lower edge should be taken up with the brush, -which has first been squeezed dry between the thumb and -finger. When the paper is dry, mark out the cover and cut. -Cut out the leaves and sew as in A. The cover may be -lettered as in B.</p> - - -<p class="c large"><span class="smcap">Scrap Book</span></p> - -<p>A. This form of book is excellent for a thin scrap -book. The pages may be of any size but if definite ideas -are lacking it is advised that the size of an ordinary magazine -be taken as a basis. Wrapping paper may be used for -both leaves and cover.</p> - -<p>B. Sometimes it is desirable to take two or three -stories from magazines and fasten the pages together, -inclosing all in covers. Trim neatly the edges of such -leaves where they were torn from the binding and assemble -them in proper order. For each pair cut a strip of thin -paper of exactly the same length as the page and say one -inch to one inch and a half in width. To each of these -strips paste two leaves. When all have been pasted and -dried assemble again and stitch through the backs as -already shown.</p> -<hr class="full x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</span></p> - -<p class="c">Problem II</p> -</div> - -<p class="c large">A HOLDER FOR THE PARTS OF A MODEL</p> - - -<p>Before proceeding further, some kind of a permanent -holder should be provided to keep all together the various -pieces of the model. This prevents the confusion and loss -of time incident to passing several kinds of materials each by -itself.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig7.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Plate VI.</span> Pattern for a simple envelope.</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</span></p> - -<p>One lesson might be used for the making of a portfolio -for this purpose, cut from screenings or heavy wrapping -paper, and patterned after an envelope, from 6” × 9” to 9” -× 12” in size. (See Plate VI.) The contents are more -securely held by providing some kind of a fastener. The -following method is a good one: In the center of one side -of the flap plan to punch a hole. This should first be re-enforced -by cutting from heavy paper a circle of ³⁄₁₆ to ⅜ -radius and pasting it in the correct place. Through both -thicknesses punch the hole. Into this insert twine, first -looping it in the centre and then passing both ends through -the loop. Use this to tie the envelope.</p> - -<p>If large pads of paper are used in the schoolroom, -their cardboard backs may be utilized. Take two of the -same size, punch holes along three sides of each, near the -edges and lace them together. If one of the long sides -of the resulting holder has been left open, materials can -be removed with greater ease than if a short side is so used. -A set of holders thus made is very durable.</p> - -<p>New paper bags make good holders although less -desirable than either of the other two.</p> -<hr class="full x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</span></p> - -<p class="c">Problem III</p> -</div> - -<p class="c large">MOUNTS AND PADS</p> - -<p class="less"><span class="smcap">Time</span>: 6 hours.<br /> -<span class="smcap">Materials</span>: Newsboard, vellum, and paper for memorandum pad, or calendar,<br /> -or pad to be mounted.</p> - -<p>We shall now begin to deal with materials that are -more exclusively employed in bookbinding work. The -simple articles considered at first are not books; but because -the processes involved and the materials used will be used -later in the more difficult work of binding a real book, they -are made a part of this course.</p> - -<p>The wise teacher will become somewhat familiar with -handling the required materials before attempting to give -instruction. It is recommended that two or more models -from each problem be made by the teacher before selecting -one for the class.</p> - -<p>The articles described in Problem III (See Plate VII) -consist of a foundation of a single piece of newsboard, covered -back and front with a bookbinding cloth.</p> - - -<p class="c large">A. <span class="smcap">Mount of a Calendar or Picture</span></p> - -<p>First secure the article to be mounted and then determine -the size and shape most desirable for the mount. Never -make the mount first and then attempt to find something to -fit it.</p> - -<p>To determine the size of the mount, place the calendar -or picture on a sheet of paper and find the most pleasing -margins by laying a pencil on each side of the article. Increase -or decrease this margin by moving the pencils back -and forth until a satisfactory position is found, as shown in -Plate VIII. Indicate this position by a line on each side.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</span> -In the same manner, establish top and bottom margins. -The margin at the top may equal that at the side, or be a -trifle wider or narrower;<a id="FNanchor_1" href="#Footnote_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> the one at the bottom may equal -the side margins or be wider, but never narrower, and -always greater than the top margin. Draw lines for top -and bottom and the size of the foundation is indicated. -A fraction of an inch may be added or subtracted to give -even measurements.</p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_1" href="#FNanchor_1" class="label">[1]</a> In a vertical sheet, wider; in a horizontal sheet, narrower.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig8.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Plate VII.</span> Mounts and pads made -by children.</p> -</div> - -<p>Working drawings should now be made of the completed -model, showing the location of the calendar, also of -the front and back.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</span></p> - -<p>Make them either accurately or freehand as described -in Problem I. If the latter method is used, some sense of -proportion should be observed. That is, do not draw 3 -inches as long as 6 inches, nor 4 inches longer than 7 inches. -The size of the foundation has already been determined. -The front covering should be ½ inch larger on each side than -the foundation, to allow for laps which are to fold onto the -back of the newsboard. The back covering should be from -¹⁄₁₆ to ⅛ of an inch smaller than the foundation on each side, -as the finished product looks much neater if no raw edge is -visible from the front.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig9.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Plate VIII.</span> Deciding upon the right size mount<br /> -for a picture by experiment with pencils.</p> -</div> - -<p>In Plate IX, the first drawing is of the face of the completed -model showing the location of the calendar. This -also shows the size of the foundation. The other two drawings -show the size of the two pieces of vellum. If the first -drawing seems too complicated, omit the location of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</span> -calendar, and draw and dimension only the outside rectangle -to give the size of the foundation.</p> - -<p>The pieces of material given out should be a little larger -than the finished size, although unnecessary waste should be -avoided. No attempt should be made to cut these pieces -carefully or regularly. Each pupil should be led to depend on -his own initiative in the use of the rule and triangle. An irregular -edge which is not a guide, is more educational than straightedges -and right angles which are of considerable assistance.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig10.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption1"><span class="smcap">Plate IX.</span> The completed mount showing the location<br /> -of the calendar, and the two pieces of vellum.</p> -</div> - -<p>With rule, triangle, and pencil, carefully lay out each -part from the drawings already made, and cut the coverings -with the scissors.<a id="FNanchor_2" href="#Footnote_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> The foundation is more successfully cut -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</span>with the paper cutter, as to cut it with scissors is a very -difficult task for little hands and likely to loosen the scissors -at the joint. The most desirable way is for each pupil to -cut his own newsboard, in which case the ruler fastened to -the cutter may be used to insure the correct size without any -preliminary measuring. If the cutter is deemed unsafe for -the pupils’ use, the proper size may be marked on the newsboard -with pencil and the pieces cut by a large boy or by the -teacher.</p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_2" href="#FNanchor_2" class="label">[2]</a> Selvage should never be allowed to remain on a covering of vellum. -A “raw edge” pastes down more closely and is, therefore, less apparent. -Vellum tears very easily lengthwise, and a torn edge may be allowed if it -is to be covered. If not to be covered, all edges should invariably be cut.</p> - -</div> - -<p>When the pieces have all been cut, place the newsboard -on the back side of the front piece of vellum, -with the margins equal, and draw around it. Cover the -surface inside the pencil lines with a thin, even coat of -paste.</p> - -<p>Much of the success of the work depends on the pasting -and rubbing. The paste is of the right consistency when -put up by the dealer, and if it dries somewhat after being -opened, a little water thoroughly stirred in will make it all -right. The brush well filled with paste should be passed -over the surface of the covering material with long even -strokes. No dry spots should be left, and especial pains -should be taken to cover the surface close to the pencil -lines. Look across the pasted surface toward the light to -see if it is entirely covered; looking directly down upon -it does not reveal the dry places. Rub the brush rather -heavily over the surface to make the paste sink into the -cloth.</p> - -<p>While pasting, several sheets of newspaper are invaluable -to protect the desk, the model, and the fingers. With -a few quick strokes of the card-cutter, cut off the folds of a -newspaper, leaving loose sheets the size of half or a quarter -page. Each desk should have several sheets, placed one on -top of another. When the top sheet has become sticky, -discard it. A perfectly clean surface beneath it is ready to -be used in the same way. Press the newsboard on the pasted<span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</span> -surface, turn it over,<a id="FNanchor_3" href="#Footnote_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> and rub it down very hard on the right -side of the vellum. When rubbing the vellum on the right -side, a small piece of cloth for each pupil prevents finger -marks, and enables the pupil to rub harder as the cloth protects -the hand.</p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_3" href="#FNanchor_3" class="label">[3]</a> When turning over any part of the model which has a pasted surface, -take hold near the center as far as possible, as handling by the edges or corners -is likely to remove paste from the places where it is most needed.</p> - -</div> - -<p>Before pasting projecting parts, the corners should be -cut. Two methods are shown in the illustrations. In the -first, two adjacent projections are turned onto the back of -the foundation. Be careful that they fit very closely to the -sides of the newsboard, press down with the fingers, and hold -them very firmly. At the corner will be a surplus piece -which should be pinched to stand upright. Slanting the -scissors very slightly upward, cut from the corner toward the -center. (See Plate X). The second method is to make -slanting cuts from the outside of the vellum toward the -corners of the newsboard. (See Plate XI). Apply paste to -the projecting sides, fold over and rub down; treat the ends -in the same manner.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig11.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Plate X.</span> Clipping the corners.</p> -</div> - -<p>If it is desired that the completed mount shall hang on -the wall, make a loop of ribbon, tape, or vellum. If tape or -ribbon is used, choose the color very carefully; that which -matches the vellum is the best choice; but, if a contrast is<span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</span> -preferred, choose a soft color which has some quality in harmony -with the vellum. Paste this loop to the back of the -foundation, allowing it to project above the top. Apply -paste to the back covering and rub it down very firmly, being -careful that no loose edges are left. Instead of pasting on a -loop, a hole may be punched near the top with the eyelet -punch, and an eyelet inserted. This should be done after -the back is pasted on.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig12.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Plate XI.</span> One method of cutting the corners.</p> -</div> - -<p>According to plan, paste on the calendar or picture. -Dry all under a weight. If several mounts are to be placed -under the same weight, it is better that each should be separated -from the others by a sheet of blotting paper, or several -thicknesses of newspaper. Allow them to stand over night. -In the morning they will be found sufficiently pressed.</p> - - -<p class="c large">B. <span class="smcap">Mount for Memorandum Pad</span></p> - -<p>Secure a small pad, and plan a mount to extend beyond -the pad ⅛ inch or more on each side. Draw plans, work out, -and paste as in A. Instead of a loop by which to suspend -the pad, make a holder for a pencil to be placed on the right -side of the mount. Cut a strip of vellum one-half or three-quarters -the length of the mount. At each end of the strip -turn about ⅛ inch onto the wrong side to give a finished -edge. To secure the correct size, fold the strip over the -pencil to be used, and, with the pencil still folded in, paste<span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</span> -the two long edges of the strip together, and then to the back -of the newsboard, having it placed midway between the -top and bottom edges. The pasting of the back covering -then follows. Remove the cardboard back from the pad -before pasting it to the mount. Dry under weight.</p> - - -<p class="c large">C. <span class="smcap">Pocket Memorandum Pad</span></p> - -<p>This is intended to be carried in the pocket, and its size -should be governed by its use. Avoid rectangles which -approximate the square, but choose rather such proportions -as 2 × 3 or 2½ × 4. As in A, make working drawings for the -three pieces. If desired, the first drawing may be of the -completed face. (See Plate XII.) Lay out and cut all -parts.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig13.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption1"><span class="smcap">Plate XII.</span> A front view of the memorandum pad accurately -drawn to show proportions; also drawings of the vellum coverings.</p> -</div> - -<p>On the front piece of vellum lay the newsboard as in A, -and draw around it. From the corners indicated by the -pencil lines measure equal distances along adjacent lines, -and connect the points by straight lines. Be careful not -to make these lines too near the corners, ¾ of an inch to 1 -inch being a good measurement for a small pad. Cut on<span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</span> -these lines with a sharp knife, or folding the ends of the line -together, cut along the line with scissors.</p> - -<p>Apply paste to the front piece, being careful not to paste -outside the slanting lines at the corners, for this space should -be left free to hold the sheets of paper. One way to protect -these corners is to insert a piece of newsboard or paper in the -slits, from the right side of the vellum, so that the corners -on the wrong side are covered. The paste may then be -applied with freedom. Remove the protecting piece of newsboard -and paste the vellum to the foundation. Finish as in -A without the hanger, or, if desired, add pencil holder as in -B. Cut several sheets of white paper ⅛ of an inch smaller -than the newsboard, and, when the paste is thoroughly dry, -insert them in the slits.</p> - - -<p class="c large">D. <span class="smcap">Blotter</span></p> - -<p>Like C except that it should be large enough to hold a -school blotter. Increase the size of the corners to be proportionate -to the size of the blotter.</p> -<hr class="full x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</span></p> - -<p class="c">Problem IV</p> -</div> - - - -<p class="less"><span class="smcap">Time</span>: 8 hours.<br /> -<span class="smcap">Materials</span>: Newsboard, vellum, and lining paper.<br /> -Note: As in Problem II, each of these models has a foundation of a -single piece of newsboard, covered on the front with vellum, but on the back -with lining paper.</p> - - - -<p class="c large">A. <span class="smcap">A Needlecase</span></p> - -<p>As shown at A in Plate XIII, the needlecase should be -planned to hold four papers of needles, two at each end. -The size of the case will depend on the size of the papers of -needles, and must be planned accordingly. Make the width -a little more than twice the width of a paper of needles, and -allow a little space lengthwise between the papers of needles -to permit their easy removal. The pockets are formed of -strips of vellum pasted on to each end of the foundation, -and their depth should be a little more than half the length -of a paper of needles.</p> - -<p>An accurate working drawing of the completed case -should be made (see Plate XIV). From this, mark out and -cut the newsboard to the correct size. The front covering of -vellum should have laps on the sides only and may well be a -little shorter than the foundation. Make freehand, dimensioned -sketches of this piece, of the vellum pockets, and of -the marbled paper. The pockets should have ½ inch laps -on three sides for pasting to the back. On the other edge, -which is to be free, allow at least an eighth of an inch to be -turned over like a hem onto the wrong side for a neat finish. -The paper for the back should be one-fourth of an inch narrower -and shorter than the foundation.</p> - -<p>Mark out and cut with the scissors, the pieces of vellum -and marbled paper. The front covering should be pasted on -first. Before pasting the pockets (which should be fastened<span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</span> -to the back only) turn over the hem, and crease it hard, but -do not paste. The hem will extend onto the side laps. From -these laps cut off the under side of the hem that it may not -be double. Paste on the pockets and the back. Dry all -under weight.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig14.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption1"><span class="smcap">Plate XIII.</span> A needlecase, a checkerboard -and a blotter. Good problems upon which to -practise the processes involved in bookbinding.</p> -</div> - - -<p class="c large">B. <span class="smcap">A Checkerboard</span></p> - -<p>First decide on the size of the small squares, remembering -that there are eight in each direction. Also allow for a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</span> -margin, outside the squares, which should vary in proportion -to the size of the squares. A single or double border -line enclosing the squares is a desirable addition. (See B, -Plate XIII.)</p> - -<p>Make working drawings of the foundation, the front -covering of vellum, and the back covering of lining paper. -In selecting vellum for this model, have in mind the application -of a color which is to be used on alternate squares. -Either a deep red vellum with alternate squares of black or a -dull green vellum with alternate squares of red is a good -combination.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig15.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption1"><span class="smcap">Plate XIV.</span> An accurate working drawing of the completed needlecase, -and dimensioned sketches of the pieces used for covering.</p> -</div> - -<p>Lay out and cut all parts, using the card cutter for the -newsboard, and the scissors for the vellum and the lining -paper. As in previous models, lay foundation on the back -of the piece of vellum, draw around it, and cover with paste -the surface enclosed by the pencil lines. Again place the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</span> -foundation on the vellum, press it down hard, turn over both -pieces and rub the vellum on the right side until it is smooth. -When thoroughly rubbed down, paste laps, being careful to -make neat corners. Paste on lining paper and dry under -weight.</p> - -<p>During a subsequent lesson, mark out the checkerboard, -accurately, with rule and pencil. Only alternate -squares need be colored, and this may be done with water -colors, crayon, or pencil. If water colors are chosen, they -should be used with as little water as possible. Before applying -the paint to the vellum, the glaze of the surface may be -reduced by rubbing over it the powder which comes from -common white chalk. Rub the powder in with the fingers -and lightly brush off what remains. On a separate piece of -vellum, practice the application of color before applying it -to the checkerboard, both to test the color itself, and to -become somewhat familiar with the best method of application. -After the paint is thoroughly dry, the surface may be -cleaned by rubbing carefully with a piece of cloth. Finish by -putting on the outside border line with pencil.</p> - - -<p class="c large">C. <span class="smcap">A Blotter</span></p> - -<p>This is to be a more elaborate production than the -blotter described in Problem III (D). Compare C, Plate -XIII.</p> - -<p>First determine the size of the foundation, which may -vary from small-blotter to desk-blotter size. Consider proportions -very carefully. A small blotter admits greater -variance between length and width than one of larger size. -Make dimensioned drawings of foundation, front covering -of vellum or cover paper, and back covering of marbled -paper.</p> - -<p>When the foundation has been cut and the front covering -pasted on, plan the corners which are to consist of separate -pieces. Determine their size by setting off a triangle<span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</span> -at one corner with a rule or pencil, moving the rule or pencil -to vary the size of the triangle until one of satisfactory size -is decided upon. Lay out on paper a triangle of the chosen -size. The thickness of the foundation, plus the thickness -of the one or more sheets of blotting paper which are to be -placed under the corners, must be taken into consideration. -Before adding the laps which are to extend onto the back -for half an inch or more experiment with patterns cut from -paper (see Plate XV).</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig16.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Plate XV.</span> Diagram for blotter corner.</p> -</div> - -<p>The corners may be made of linen, vellum, cover paper, -or skiver (a prepared leather which has been split by machinery). -Cut them out by the pattern. To give a finish -to the edge which is to be free, turn it over about ¼ of an -inch. If leather is used, a portion of the under side along -the edges should be additionally skived off, before turning -over, to make the laps very thin. Cover paper, if used, -may be re-enforced by pasting a piece of muslin onto the -back.</p> - -<p>These corners present an opportunity for applied design. -The most satisfactory decoration for leather is “tooling.” -On the other materials suggested, a design may be applied -by stenciling or block printing.<a id="FNanchor_4" href="#Footnote_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a></p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_4" href="#FNanchor_4" class="label">[4]</a> Simple directions for these processes may be found in the <i>School Arts -Book</i> as follows: Tooling, June, 1908; Stenciling, June and October, 1908, -March, 1912; Block-printing, June, 1907.</p> - -</div> - -<p>The designs should be simple and appropriate (see -Plates XVI), and the color scheme carefully planned. Unless<span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</span> -a special study has been made of color harmonies, a combination -of analogous colors or complementary colors is a -wiser choice than a more complicated combination. Practise -on paper until a pattern is secured, and apply it to the -corners by the method decided upon.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig17.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Plate XVI.</span> Blotter pad corners with original units by grammar-school children.</p> -</div> - -<p>When pasting on the decorated corners, the sheets of -blotting paper should be placed on the foundation so that -there will be room for their use. Paste the laps to the back -of the foundation, being very careful to place the corners -in exact position. Leave the sheets of blotting paper under -the corners until after the whole has been pressed; otherwise -the weight would crush the corners. When putting in -new sheets of blotting paper, they can be more easily slipped -under the corners if a small triangle has been cut from each -corner of the blotting paper. A sheet of lining paper about -⅜ of an inch shorter and narrower than the foundation -should be pasted to the back. Dry all under weight.</p> -<hr class="full x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</span></p> - -<p class="c">Problem V</p> -</div> - -<p class="c large">MOUNTS AND COVERS</p> - - - -<p class="less"><span class="smcap">Time</span>: 6 hours.<br /> -<span class="smcap">Materials</span>: Newsboard, vellum, and lining paper.<br /> -<span class="smcap">Note</span>: Each article in this problem has two foundation pieces covered -by a single piece of vellum, which forms a hinge between them, and the whole -is lined with marbled paper.</p> - - - -<p class="c large">A. <span class="smcap">A Calendar Stand</span></p> - -<p>First make or secure a calendar, which should be of small -size. If desired, a picture may be used with the calendar, -but it should harmonize with it in size and color. In such a -case plan to have the space between the two much smaller -than the margins, so that the eye will take them in as a -group, and not as two separate objects. Decide on the margins -as described in Problem II, and thus arrive at the proper -size for one of the foundation pieces of newsboard. (See -Plate XVII.)</p> - -<p>Make a dimensioned sketch of this piece, and plan to -have two made of newsboard. For the outside covering plan -a strip of vellum which shall be long enough to cover both -pieces of newsboard when placed about one-eighth of an inch -apart, and to make half-inch laps on each side and end. Plan -a strip of vellum about an inch wide and as long as the width -of the foundation pieces to form the back of the hinge; and -two pieces of lining paper, each one-eighth of an inch smaller -in both directions than the foundation pieces. Make dimensioned -sketches of these pieces (see Plate XVIII), lay out -and cut all parts.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig18.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Plate XVII.</span> Calendars.</p> -</div> - -<p>In the center of the narrow strip of vellum mark off a -space one-eighth of an inch wide, extending lengthwise of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</span> -strip. Apply paste and lay the two pieces of newsboard on -the vellum and with edges against the lines drawn. Press -hard on the newsboard, turn it over, and rub down the -vellum. A hinge is thus formed for the two pieces of newsboard. -Lay these pieces on the large piece of vellum and -draw around the whole. Apply paste to the vellum inside -the pencil lines. Lay the double foundation on the pasted -surface with the narrow strip of vellum on top. Rub down -the outside surface very hard, leaving no wrinkles or rough -places; clip the corners as described in Problem II, paste -the laps, fold them over, rub them down, and line the mount -with the pieces of marbled paper. Connect the front and -back halves of the mount by a single or double strap of -vellum pasted to the inside of each. Finish by pasting on the -calendar and picture.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p><span class="smcap">Note.</span> If the calendars are made for Christmas, a most appropriate -time, the children are sometimes desirous of decorating with Christmas seals. -These are not so desirable as a decorative picture, but if the teacher feels that -to forbid their use would be dispiriting to the child, she should insist that -only one seal should be used and that on the back of the standard where it will -carry its message, but will not detract from the appearance of the face of the -mount. An envelope might be made in which to present the calendar, and -the seals used on the outside of the envelopes.</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig19.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Plate XVIII.</span> Freehand sketches of the parts of a simple calendar mount.</p> -</div> - -<p class="c large">B. <span class="smcap">Another Calendar Mount</span></p> - -<p>Plan the back standard to be smaller than the front -instead of the same size. Plate XIX suggests a suitable -trapezoidal shape. In this case the vellum must be of the -same length as before, but cut to fit the different widths of -the newsboard (compare Plate XX).</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</span></p> - -<p>Plan a narrow strip of vellum to line the hinge, as in A. -Paste this piece and the outside covering as before. Cut the -lining paper of the correct shapes and apply to the back.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig20.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Plate XIX.</span> The foundation pieces for an easel mount.</p> -</div> - -<p class="c large">C. <span class="smcap">A Needle-book</span></p> - -<p>This consists of covers with leaves of flannel. Decide -upon the size of leaves, which should not be too large and in -good proportion. One piece of flannel should form two<span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</span> -leaves, as in booklets described in Problem I. Plan the covers -to be one-eighth of an inch larger in each direction than the -leaves. These should be constructed like the calendar -mount already described in A, but the space between should -be greater, perhaps three-eighths of an inch. Make dimensioned -sketches of all parts. The parts should then be laid -out, cut, and pasted. Finish the edges of the leaves by pinking -(cutting in small points). Four leaves are sufficient. -Sew them to the cover as described in Problem I.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig21.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Plate XX.</span> The flat of vellum for covering -the foundation.</p> -</div> - - -<p class="c large">D. <span class="smcap">A Covered Memorandum Pad</span></p> - -<p>Secure a small pad. Plan covers, as described in B, -which shall project about one-eighth of an inch in each<span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</span> -direction beyond the pad. Plan to have the space between -them about ⅜ of an inch more than the thickness of the pad. -When the covers are finished, paste the pad firmly to the -inside of one cover. If desired, loops of vellum to hold the -pencil may be pasted on the side of the pad, as described in -Problem I.</p> -<hr class="full x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</span></p> - -<p class="c">Problem VI</p> -</div> - -<p class="c large">FOLDING CHECKERBOARD<a id="FNanchor_5" href="#Footnote_5" class="fnanchor">[3]</a></p> - - - -<p class="less"><span class="smcap">Time</span>: 6 hours.<br /> -<span class="smcap">Materials</span>: Newsboard, vellum, squared paper.</p> - - - -<p>This checkerboard (Plate XXI) is planned with squares -¾” in size, and of these there should be 8 on each side -alternating dark and light. By making a foundation 7½” -square, it gives a margin of ¾” on all sides, resulting not -only in a satisfactory appearance, but providing a place -for extra checkers. This board folds through the center -and is small enough to be easily carried in the pocket. -The illustration is intended to show the construction to -the teacher. Such a drawing should not be attempted by -the pupils whose efforts should be confined to simple sketches -of the necessary pieces as in the other problems.</p> - -<p>Cut two pieces of newsboard 3⅝” strong × 7½”, and -a piece of vellum about 9” square. It will be observed -that the width of the newsboard is less than half the length -in order to allow a space between the two pieces of newsboard -without which the completed board would not close.</p> - -<p>On the back side of the piece of vellum mark off in -heavy lines the positions of the two pieces of newsboard and -allow ¼” or ³⁄₁₆” space between them. Paste the newsboard -to the vellum as already described, cut the corners and paste -the edges. A strip of vellum 2” × 7” should be pasted to cover -the space between the two pieces of newsboard and extend -well onto them.</p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_5" href="#FNanchor_5" class="label">[3]</a> From “War Time Occupations.”</p> - -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig22.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Plate XXI</span></p> -</div> - -<p>The paper used for lining may be prepared in one of -several ways, either by machine or by hand, and may be -in one piece or two. The former is less likely to be confusing. -The easiest and quickest method is to have the squares -printed in dark ink on white or light gray paper of good -quality, and fairly tough. The use of linoleum is suggested -as one method of printing squares, or a line plate may be -made, the squares printed from it and finished linings for -the checkerboards furnished to those who are making<span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</span> -them. The light squares may be left as they are or may be -colored with water color, crayon, or oils. All the outside -squares should be lined in, either when printed or afterward -by hand. A border line about ¼” outside the squares -adds very much to the general appearance.</p> - -<p>If all the markings and coloring must be done by -hand, paper commercially ruled into ¼” squares is recommended. -This secures accuracy, and saves much tiresome -ruling. Three such spaces on each side form a ¾ inch -square and when the checkerboard is laid off by small -dots on outside lines, proceed to color alternate squares -by one of the following methods:</p> - -<p>A. With soft pencil darken alternate squares leaving -others of the original color. Begin with the upper row, -and take successive rows downward. Across the paper -lay a rule just below the lower edge of the squares to be -darkened. With the pencil make vertical strokes only, -using the side of the pencil to give an even surface free -from ridges. Be careful with the lines at the right and -left edges that they do not extend into the adjoining space. -The edge of the rule will stop the strokes at the right place -at the bottom and they should not extend quite to the top -as this can be adjusted later. When all rows are finished, -turn paper around so that what was top is now bottom, -and complete squares by the same method.</p> - -<p>B. Instead of pencil, colored crayons may be used -in the same manner as already described.</p> - -<p>C. Crayons of two colors may be used in alternate -squares, or one color and a black pencil. Orange and black -or red and black are pleasing combinations.</p> - -<p>D. Ink or water may be applied with a brush.</p> - -<p>When completed place the “board” so that a dark -square is in the upper left and lower right corners respectively, -and cut open vertically, removing about ¼” from<span class="pagenum" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</span> -the center two halves. If no space is left, the paper soon -cracks in folding; if too little space is left, the edges soon -turn and later become ”dog-eared“; if too much is left, -it is confusing to the players, as theoretically there should -be no space at all. Paste these pieces to each half of the -cover, placing them about ¼” apart, and dry flat under -weight.</p> - -<p>When thoroughly dry, the inner surface should be -varnished with shellac or valspar to give stability to the -color. Otherwise, it soon becomes rubbed and the appearance, -if not the utility, of the board is spoiled. One coat -is sufficient to hold the color, but if a polished surface is -desired two are needed.</p> - -<p>The question of coating the outside with shellac or -other polish is an open one, and may be decided to suit -the individual taste.</p> - -<p>It is sometimes desirable to show that an article is -the product of the schoolroom, and in this case a neatly -printed label with a space for the pupil’s name, etc., may -be pasted to the outside.</p> - -<p>If larger boards are desired make the squares one inch -in size leaving ¾” margin. The foundation consists of -two pieces of newsboard, each 4⅝” × 9½” and the vellum -for covering should be 11½” square. The process of -assembling is like that used in the small board.</p> - - -<p class="c large"><span class="smcap">Checkers</span></p> - -<p>I. Dowels. Checkers may be made from dowels -⅝” or ¾” for small checkerboards and ⅞” or 1” for the -larger boards. Broom handles, etc., may be used as substitutes -for the dowels.</p> - -<p>The checkers should be of a uniform thickness, and -this is best secured by using a combination mitre-box, -saw, and gauge. If this is not available, any other means -may be employed to saw the dowels into disks ⅛” or ³⁄₁₆” -in thickness.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</span></p> - -<p>Lay a piece of sandpaper on a flat surface and rub the -checkers on this to remove saw marks. Two grades of -sandpaper give a better finish than one.</p> - -<p>To play the game, it is necessary that there should -be two colors of checkers. Some woods present sufficient -difference in their natural colors to serve this purpose, but -it is generally better that one set at least should be artificially -colored. For this, use stain or ink. Place some of the -fluid in a shallow dish, and drop the checkers into it. Remove -at once with nippers or two sticks, and lay on a paper -to dry.</p> - -<p>Most stains will stand some water, but common ink -would wash out if rained on. So to preserve the color, -checkers dyed with ink should afterward be dropped into -a thin shellac and taken out and dried. Those of natural -color should also be shellaced as they keep clean much -longer. After the shellac is dry, there is a little roughness -on the surface. If this is rubbed off with fine sandpaper -the checkers are much more agreeable to handle. Twelve -checkers of each color are needed for a set but three or four -extra ones may be added. Put these in a strong bag securely -tied.</p> - -<p>II. Button Molds. Instead of using dowels, as just -described, wooden button molds may be colored and used.</p> - -<p>III. Buttons. Two contrasting colors of flat buttons -make excellent checkers.</p> -<hr class="full x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</span></p> - -<p class="c">Problem VII</p> -</div> - -<p class="c large">PICTURE FRAME</p> - - - -<p class="less"><span class="smcap">Time</span>: 4 hours.<br /> -<span class="smcap">Materials</span>: Newsboard, vellum or paper.</p> - - - -<p>First choose size of picture and then width of frame. -This may be uniform on all sides or one may observe the -rules for margins shown on pages 21 and 22. Make a careful -drawing of the outside of the frame and opening, and then -lay out and cut the newsboard as indicated. For covering, -plan and cut a piece of vellum, grass cloth, paper or other -material which shall extend beyond the newsboard on each -side for at least one-half an inch. On this material indicate -the position of the newsboard including the opening for -the picture. Also draw lines one-half an inch inside and -parallel to the lines showing opening. Cut on these -lines and at each corner cut oblique lines to allow the laps -to fold under. For the back there should be planned and -cut another piece of newsboard one-eighth of an inch shorter -than the front and of the same width; and to cover it a -strip of covering material three-eighths of an inch longer -and one-quarter of an inch narrower than the newsboard. -(See Plate XXII.)</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig23.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Plate XXII.</span> Dimensioned sketches of the parts of a picture frame.</p> -</div> - -<p>To assemble: Paste the foundation of the front to -the covering and turn under and paste the laps at the -opening. At this time paste only one outside lap and that -the top one. Over one end of the newsboard-back turn the -outside strip about half an inch and paste this down leaving -the remainder of the piece free. Place this piece of newsboard -against the front, with the pasted end at the top, and over -both pieces of newsboard paste the three laps attached to -the front side. Fold back the free piece and paste as a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</span> -lining over the back. To this may be pasted a patent -hanger—a ring attached to a gummed disk. The picture -should be inserted at the opening in the top.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig24.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Plate XXIII.</span> A folding picture frame.</p> -</div> - -<p>If a double frame is desired (see Plate XXIII) make -a frame for each picture but use for the back of each a -piece of heavy paper which should not have an additional -covering. Make a foundation which folds through the -center planning to have it extend slightly beyond the frames -as shown in Plate XXII; to each half of this foundation -attach the frames already made.</p> - -<p>C. Either style of frame may be made with a covering -of silk, grass cloth, leather, and slightly padded. For -this purpose use sheet wadding which should be firmly -attached to the front of the foundation. Over this lay the -covering material and paste the laps only, not the broad -faces.</p> -<hr class="full x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</span></p> - -<p class="c">Problem VIII</p> -</div> - -<p class="c large">HINGED COVERS</p> - -<p class="less"><span class="smcap">Time</span>: 8 hours.<br /> -<span class="smcap">Materials</span>: Newsboard, vellum, paper for leaves, eyelets, cord, and (if -desired) cover paper for C and D.<br /> -<span class="smcap">Note</span>: In selecting materials, choose those which harmonize with each -other, i.e., the vellum, cover paper, and lining paper should be of the same hue.</p> - -<p>The problem is to make two separate hinged covers -between which loose leaves may be bound, the whole to be -fastened together with macrame or other cord. This may be -designed for one of many uses, suggestions for several of -which follow (see Plate XXIV).</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig25.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Plate XXIV.</span> Examples of hinged covers made by grammar<br /> -school children.</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</span></p> - - -<p class="c large">A. <span class="smcap">A Sketch Book</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig26.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Plate XXV.</span> Freehand dimensioned sketches showing parts<br /> -of a sketch book cover.</p> -</div> - -<p>In making dimensioned sketches for the various parts -(see Plate XXV) determine first the size of the pages and -plan the covers to extend beyond them about one-eighth -of an inch. Make the sketches of the pages and the newsboard -foundations. Lay out and cut the latter, of full size, -and then from either a long or short side of each, in accordance -with plan, cut a strip to form a hinge. The width of -these strips may be from three-quarters of an inch to one -inch. Vellum should be planned to cover completely one -side of both pieces of each cover, to fold around the small -piece and to lap over onto the large piece about one-half -inch. It should also fold over the other three edges about -one-half inch. (See Plate XXVI.) The lining paper should<span class="pagenum" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</span> -cover to within about one-eighth of an inch of the edges of -the large pieces and should not extend onto the hinge. Constant -bending soon breaks paper, but with ordinary use does -not affect the tough vellum. Make dimensioned sketches -of these pieces (see Plate XXV) and lay out and cut -all remaining parts.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig27.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption1"><span class="smcap">Plate XXVI.</span> A diagram showing the position -of the two pieces of newsboard on a -piece of vellum.</p> -</div> - -<p>Properly place main part of newsboard on vellum, drawing -around it. Lay small part one-eighth of an inch from -main part and draw around it. Remove the pieces of newsboard -and apply paste to vellum inside the pencil line, being -careful to cover the surface smoothly and evenly; lay both -back pieces in place, turn the vellum over and rub down. -Cut from the projecting vellum on the hinged side a small -piece even with the edges of the hinges as far as the outside -corners (see Plate XXVI), and clip off the outside corners -as before described. Apply paste to projecting vellum, -fold over first the hinged side and its opposite, then the other -two sides, and rub down. Paste the lining paper in and dry -the covers separately under weight. Remember to place -newspaper or blotting paper between each pair, otherwise -the moisture from one will cause wrinkles in the other.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</span></p> - -<p>For the leaves, use drawing paper, which may be cut -singly or in folio (with single fold). The latter method is -preferable, as folded sheets are easier to place at the back, -look better, and are more secure.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig28.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption1"><span class="smcap">Plate XXVII.</span> Two methods of cutting and -folding paper for the pages of a scrap book -or postcard album.</p> -</div> - -<p>Two holes in each cover are sufficient for the cord, but -a little care should be taken to determine the best position -for them. The distance of each from the end of the hinge -strips should be from one-fifth to one-sixth of its length, and, -of course, they should be placed midway between the long -edges. After punching the holes, see that the leaves are -properly marked so that the holes in them will exactly fit -the holes in the cover. To do this, place one sheet on the -cover, leaving correct margins, and through the center of -each hole mark the paper which should then be punched. -Treat the other sheets in the same manner. Eyelets should -be inserted in the covers only, and for that purpose a good -eyelet punch is necessary. Directions for its use and sample -eyelets accompany punches when sent from the dealer.</p> - -<p>Complete by tying all together with a piece of cord. -Make a small flat bow on the front cover.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</span></p> - - -<p class="c large">B. <span class="smcap">A Scrap Book</span></p> - -<p>This should be planned and worked out in the same -manner as the Sketch Book, but it should be somewhat -larger, possibly 6 × 8½ inches. For the leaves, screenings -or wrapping paper may be used.</p> - -<p>To prevent covers from flaring after the book has been -filled, the thickness at the back should be increased by -additional folds in the paper, as shown in Plate XXVIIA. -The “stub” should be about one inch wide after it is folded. -The Japanese method, which is to fold a very long strip -many times in the same manner, forms a pleasing arrangement -(see Plate XXVIIB).</p> - - -<p class="c large">C. <span class="smcap">A Postcard Album</span></p> - -<p>Make the covers described in A and the leaves of a -heavy paper. Green or brown screenings look well and give -a background generally harmonious with colored postcards. -The size of the leaves should be sufficient to leave a generous -margin around the card. If two are to be placed on one page, -have the space between less than the margins around the -edges. A little additional margin at the bottom is always -pleasing. Slits for holding the cards may be made in the -following manner: cut a blank sheet of paper of the size of a -postal card and from each corner measure both vertically -and horizontally 1 to 1¼ inches and connect the adjacent -corners with straight lines. Place this pattern in proper -position and use the ends of the lines on it to locate the lines -to be drawn on the page itself. It a hole is punched at each -end of the line, it gives a neat appearance and prevents the -paper from tearing easily. The lines on the page should be -cut with a sharp knife. Insert each card by placing its -corners in the slits.</p> - -<p>A second set of oblique lines parallel to those already -described may be drawn and cut three-eighths of an inch farther<span class="pagenum" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</span> -from each corner. This will form a strap to hold the cards -in place, and on the opposite side of the leaf cards may be -inserted in the outside slits.</p> - - -<p class="c large">D. <span class="smcap">A Clipping File</span></p> - -<p>Between two separate covers several envelopes—say -five—are to be fastened and used for holding clippings, etc. -Select the envelopes—3½ by 9 inches is a convenient size. -Plan covers to be about one-eighth of an inch longer on each -end than the envelopes and seven-eighths of an inch wider. -This allows three-quarters of an inch for the guard and -also a projection of one-eighth of an inch on the opposite -side. Strips of vellum should be planned to cover completely -both sides of the hinge, to lap over onto the large piece -about one inch both outside and in, and to extend beyond<span class="pagenum" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</span> -each end about one-half inch. To cover the rest of the -newsboard, cover paper should be used and the pieces -should lap over the vellum about three-quarters of an inch on -the side next to the hinge and fold over the other edges about -one-half an inch. The lining paper should cover to within -one-eighth of an inch of the edges of the large pieces of newsboard. -Make dimensioned sketches of all pieces and lay out -and cut all parts.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig29.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption1"><span class="smcap">Plate XXVIII.</span> Relative positions of -newsboard and vellum in making the -cover of a clipping file.</p> -</div> - -<p>Draw a line through the center of the vellum showing -where the back edge of the small piece of newsboard should -come. Lay main part one-eighth of an inch from this line -and draw around the edges of both pieces except where the -large piece projects beyond the vellum (see Plate XXVIII). -Apply paste to vellum, lay pieces of newsboard in place, turn -it over and rub down. Cut from the projecting vellum a -small piece even with the ends of the hinges as far as the -outside corners. Apply paste first to projecting ends, then -to long strip; fold over and rub down.</p> - -<p>Properly place cover on cover paper and draw around -it. Apply paste to cover paper and finish as when vellum is -used for entire cover. Paste in the lining paper and dry -under weight.</p> - -<p>Strips of vellum about 2½ inches wide and one inch -longer than the envelopes should be folded lengthwise down -the middle to form guards. Cut strips of newsboard three-quarters -of an inch wide, and of the same length as the -envelope. Apply paste to half the vellum and lay the newsboard -on it with one edge against the center fold. Against -the other edge of the newsboard lay the lower edge of the -envelope with its ends and the ends of the newsboard in -the same straight lines. Treat the ends of vellum in the -same manner as on the covers. Punch holes in covers and -guards, insert eyelets, and fasten together by tying, or with -paper fasteners.</p> -<hr class="full x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</span></p> - -<p class="c">Problem IX</p> -</div> - -<p class="c large">BOXES</p> - -<p class="less"><span class="smcap">Time</span>: 6 hours.<br /> -<span class="smcap">Materials</span>: Newsboard, stay-tape or vellum, and a thin paper.</p> - -<p>First determine the size of the box, which should be -made for a definite purpose. Consider the proportions of -the width, length, and height; also the height of the sides -of the cover.</p> - -<p>A box consists of foundations of newsboard, the edges -of which are stayed with strips of tape or vellum, and the -outside covered with paper. The cover should be larger -than the bottom by ⅛ inch in both directions to allow it to -slip over the box. This amount will vary somewhat with -the thickness of the newsboard, the paper with which it is -covered, and the skill of the worker.</p> - -<p>The foundation for each part is to be developed from a -single piece of newsboard. The box and cover are to be -covered with a thin paper. A great variety of paper for -this purpose may be purchased, either figured or in plain -colors.</p> - -<p>For the box plan a strip of paper long enough to extend -around the four sides and to provide for a lap where the ends -join. Be generous with this lap, as it will be found that the -paper “takes up” when it is pasted on. The width of the -strip should be at least one inch more than the depth of the -box. For the cover, plan covering paper like the newsboard -development, but with its sides ½ inch or more wider to fold -over the edges. Let the corner squares serve as laps. Make -dimensioned sketches of all pieces and lay out and cut all -parts. (See Plate XXIX.)</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</span></p> - -<p>Along folding lines of the foundations score deeply with -a knife, one blade of the scissors, or with a pin, and fold with -the crease on the outside. It is essential to the success of the -box to have this crease on the outside to insure a sharp, -straight, and strong edge, which might otherwise be rounded, -irregular, and weak.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig30.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Plate XXIX.</span> Drawings of the pieces required in making boxes.</p> -</div> - -<p>Fasten the corners of both box and cover together with -pieces of tape or strips of vellum, lapping onto the sides. -(See Plate XXX.) If possible, allow the corners to dry -before proceeding further.</p> - -<p>Paste the strip of paper around the box, allowing ½ -inch to project beyond both top and bottom edges. Rub -down well. Make a vertical cut at each corner of upper -projection and fold and paste laps down on the inside. (See -Plate XXXI.)</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</span></p> - -<p>Make a V-cut at each corner of the lower projection, -fold and paste the laps against the bottom. (See Plate -XXXII.) It will probably be necessary to apply more paste -before finally rubbing these laps down.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig31.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption1"><span class="smcap">Plate XXX.</span> The box in process of construction -showing method of “staying” the corners.</p> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter1"> -<img src="images/fig32.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Plate XXXI.</span> Showing method of pasting<br /> -the laps to the inside of the box.</p> -</div> - -<p>Paste top of cover to the paper, leaving equal margins -on all sides. From the two long edges make cuts to the -corners of the newsboard foundation at right angles to its<span class="pagenum" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</span> -edges. Fold and paste paper over the ends of cover first, and -then onto the inside, using the thumb to push the paper -over the edges. (See Plate XXXI.) The cuts made from the -long edges give an extra length to end coverings. Paste this -extra piece onto long sides and then paste the part naturally -to be used to cover these sides. The appearance of the box<span class="pagenum" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</span> -will be greatly improved by running the thumb and finger -along the folded edges of the cover to sharpen them.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig33.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Plate XXXII.</span> The laps are being pasted<br /> -to the bottom of the box.</p> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter1"> -<img src="images/fig34.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Plate XXXIII.</span> Here the paper is being pasted<br /> -to the side of the cover.</p> -</div> - -<p>In this manner, boxes of any size may be made. Small -boxes may be covered with linen, cretonne, or other kinds of -cloth. In this case it may be better (after making the foundations -as already described) to paste the covering to the -inside of the foundation only, otherwise the surface might be -discolored by the paste oozing through the cloth.</p> - -<p>A box with a glass top is sometimes desirable for -holding specimens of various kinds. Such a box may be -made as above described with the following changes: -If it is to be a sealed box the specimens should be properly -placed in the box and the glass (which should be as large -as the outside measurement of the box to prevent its -dropping in) laid over the top before pasting down that -part of the covering which projects above the box itself. -When properly arranged this should then be pasted to the -glass exactly as the laps are pasted to the bottom of the box.</p> - -<p>If a removable cover is desired, cut strips of newsboard -for the sides and a strip of material for covering them in the -same manner that the box is covered. After staying the -corners with vellum, paste on the strip of covering material; -one edge of this should lap over the newsboard and be -pasted to the inside of the cover and the other should hold -the glass in position after it has been placed on the newsboard.</p> -<hr class="full x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</span></p> - -<p class="c">Problem X</p> -</div> - -<p class="c large">POSTCARD HOLDER</p> - -<p class="less"><span class="smcap">Time</span>: 8 hours.<br /> -<span class="smcap">Materials</span>: Newsboard, vellum, and lining paper.</p> - - - -<p>Before beginning this holder, it may be well to have -collections made of cards relating to a definite subject. Interest -in the study of various industries, history, and geography -is greatly increased by the use of pictures, and in many -places sets of cards prepared for such a purpose may be -purchased.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig35.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Plate XXXIV.</span> The postcard holder partly open.</p> -</div> - -<p>This holder consists of an outside case into which the -inner holder slips. (See Plate XXXIV.) The size of the -faces may be determined by individual pupils, but, if the -blocks to be described later are used, it will be quite essential -to have a uniform size so that the blocks may be used interchangeably -among the pupils. For this reason, it is recommended -that the broad faces of the outside be about one<span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</span> -inch larger in each direction than a postcard, and the narrow -faces 1¼” wide.</p> - -<p>Plan the foundation of a single piece of newsboard, as -wide as the outside length of the holder, scored to divide it -into the four faces above referred to, and a fifth division -the exact size of one narrow face. Arrange these faces to be -joined at their long edges with a narrow face on each end -of the strip of newsboard so that when folded together one -narrow face will be double, which gives greater stability to -the shape of the holder. Plan a strip of vellum 2 inches -wider than the length of the case, and long enough to extend -around it, allowing for a lap at one corner. It will be found -in putting on this vellum that it will require a piece longer -than the sum of the width of the faces as, however closely it -may be put on, it “takes up” at the corners. Therefore be -generous with the lap as a little extra length does no harm.</p> - -<p>For the inner holder plan a strip of newsboard ⅛” -narrower than the case, scored to divide it into five parts. -Two parts are to be of the same length as the case, alternating -with two narrow faces ⅛” less than thickness of the -case (that they may fit inside) and the fifth piece about one-half -the length of the long faces.</p> - -<p>Plan two strips of vellum to cover the narrow faces, -and lap onto the adjoining faces about 1”. Allow ½” at each -end to turn over the edges. For each of the three broad -faces, plan a covering of lining paper which shall allow an -edge of vellum to show at the joints, and shall lap over the -other edges of the newsboard. Notice that these three pieces -are of three different sizes.</p> - -<p>Make dimensioned sketches of all pieces (See Plate -XXXV) and lay out and cut all parts. Along the folding -lines of both newsboard foundations, score and fold as explained -in connection with the box.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig36.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Plate XXXV.</span> Dimensioned sketches of<br /> -the parts of the postcard holder.</p> -</div> - -<p>When pasting the vellum onto the outside case, it will -be found of great advantage to have blocks of wood to work<span class="pagenum" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</span> -around. If there is a woodworking room in connection with -the school, these blocks may well be made there. They -should be at least the full length of the case and may project -beyond the ends. Their thickness should be the width of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</span> -narrow faces, and their width may be the same as that of the -broad faces, or narrower. If narrower, the blocks may be -slipped along as the vellum is being rubbed down.</p> - -<p>The strip of vellum for covering the outside is so large -that it is difficult for a child to cover it with paste, before a -part of it has dried. It is better, therefore, to paste a little -more than enough for one face at a time, rub this down, apply -paste again, and so on to the end. By putting the paste a -little beyond were it is needed there is a certainty of leaving -no dry areas at the corners.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig37.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption1"><span class="smcap">Plate XXXVI.</span> An illustration of the method -of covering the outside of the case when -a block of wood is used.</p> -</div> - -<p>If blocks are to be used, paste together the two end -divisions of the newsboard, put the block inside, and paste on -the strip of vellum. Place one end of the vellum flush with -one edge of the case, and cover one broad face first. (See -Plate XXXVI.) Before rubbing down the vellum on the -next face, be sure that it is pulled as closely as possible over -the edge, leaving no wrinkles or loose places. When all the -faces have been covered, there should remain a margin of -vellum to lap onto the face first covered. If this is pasted -down very closely, it will be almost invisible.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</span></p> - -<p>If no blocks are available, three faces should be covered -before joining the two end pieces of newsboard, which should -then be covered as one piece. Lay each face as it is being -pasted so that one edge is at the edge of the desk or table, -and allow the rest of the case to hang over the side. (See -Plate XXXVII.) In this way the faces may be easily covered. -Next make a longitudinal cut on the projecting vellum as -far as the newsboard at each corner of the case. The resulting -laps may then be easily pasted down onto the inside of -the case.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig38.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption1"><span class="smcap">Plate XXXVII.</span> An illustration of the method of covering -the outside of the case when no block of wood -is available.</p> -</div> - -<p>Over the narrow faces of the inner holder paste the -strips of vellum, cut for this purpose. Paste and fold their -ends over the edges of the newsboard. These ends fit a little -better if two slits are made in each at the fold of the newsboard. -Cover the broad faces with the lining paper, turning<span class="pagenum" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</span> -and pasting the laps over the edges closely. The corners -should be cut as in the flat objects described in previous -articles. This inner part should not be pressed as a flat piece -as this would cause the paper to crack open when folded for -use.</p> - -<p>If desired, the inside may be lined with white paper, in -which case the pieces should be put in separately instead of -in one long strip. This is difficult for any but most skillful -workers.</p> - -<p>B. A holder of similar construction, but of convenient -size to hold note or letter paper makes an excellent filing -case.</p> -<hr class="full x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</span></p> - -<p class="c">Problem XI</p> -</div> - -<p class="c large">SLIP BOX<a id="FNanchor_6" href="#Footnote_6" class="fnanchor">[4]</a></p> - - -<p class="less"><span class="smcap">Time</span>: 6 hours.<br /> -<span class="smcap">Materials</span>: Newsboard, vellum, thin paper.</p> - -<p>This box (Plate XXXVIII) by varying the size may -be used for holding pencils, checkers, a picture puzzle, or -for other purposes.</p> - -<p>Accurately lay out the box on the newsboard as shown -in the drawing and cut on the outside lines, preferably -with the cardboard cutter. Along the edges of the base -score with a sharp knife or strong pin and turn up the sides -with the lines outside. The corners should be stayed with -a strip of vellum as shown to hold the box in shape.</p> - -<p>Cut a strip of lining or other thin paper long enough -to extend around the box and lap over about ½ inch; -the width should be at least one inch greater than height -of sides. Paste this strip to the sides of the box allowing -surplus width to extend equally above and below.</p> - -<p>At each corner of the box make cuts in the paper so -that it may be pasted to the inside of the box at one edge -and to the bottom of the box at the other. It is advised -that no attempt be made to line either the inside or the base. -The case should be enough larger than the box to allow the -latter to slip easily but not fall out. By making each side -of the case ⅛ of an inch wider than the corresponding sides -of the box, this is accomplished. It will be noticed that -three narrow faces are shown in the drawing. Lap the -broader outside face B over the narrower one A and paste -securely. This gives stability to the outside.</p> - -<p>Cut a strip of vellum long enough to paste around the -box and extend beyond it at least ½ inch at each end. -Paste this to the foundation; at each corner make cuts in -the vellum, and paste projecting parts to the inside of the -foundation.</p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_6" href="#FNanchor_6" class="label">[4]</a> From “War Time Occupations.”</p> - -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig39.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Plate XXXVIII.</span></p> -</div> - -<hr class="full x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</span></p> - -<p class="c">Problem XII</p> -</div> - -<p class="c large">A PORTFOLIO</p> - - - -<p class="less"><span class="smcap">Time</span>: 6 hours.<br /> -<span class="smcap">Materials</span>: Newsboard, vellum, cover paper, lining paper, tape.</p> - - - -<p>(A). This portfolio consists of two foundation pieces of -newsboard, covered and lined with paper and joined by a -back of vellum. Let the size and shape of these covers be -determined by the use to which they are to be put. They -may be for drawings, maps, compositions, etc. The size of -the newsboard will practically be the size of the finished portfolio, -and should be somewhat larger than the papers it is to -hold.</p> - -<p>Plan the back, which consists of two pieces of vellum, -wide enough to allow for the space desired between the -covers, and also to lap onto each cover at least one inch. -One piece of vellum should be long enough to lap over the -ends of the newsboard about ½ an inch, and the other piece -should be about ⅛ of an inch shorter than the newsboard.</p> - -<p>Plan the cover paper to be large enough to allow for ½ -inch lap to fold over the three free edges, but remember to -allow a margin of vellum to show at the other edge. Plan -the lining paper to be small enough to allow the foundation -to extend beyond it at least ⅛ of an inch on all sides.</p> - -<p>Make dimensioned sketches of all pieces and lay out and -cut all parts. (See Plate XXXIX.) Place the newsboard -foundations on the short piece of vellum the proper distance -apart, with equal amounts of vellum extending under -each. The newsboard, of course, will extend at each end a -trifle beyond the vellum. When the proper position is -determined, draw pencil lines lengthwise of the vellum indicating<span class="pagenum" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</span> -the edge of each cover. Put paste on the vellum and -rub down well onto the newsboard forming the inside of the -hinge. To make sure that the upper and lower edges of the -covers are in a continuous straight line, place a rule or -straight edge against one cover, extending across and beyond -the vellum; place the second cover against the rule and the -edges will be in a straight line. (See Plate XL.) Paste -the second piece of vellum onto the outside and turn the -projecting ends over the newsboard, pasting them down.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig40.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Plate XXXIX.</span> Dimensioned sketches<br /> -of the parts of a portfolio.</p> -</div> - -<p>Properly place one foundation piece on the cover paper, -allowing the vellum to show where it laps onto the newsboard, -and draw around it. The amount of vellum which is -to show is a problem in space division. Just how much will -look well on the particular cover under consideration should -be carefully thought out.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</span></p> - -<p>Apply paste to the cover paper, noting that it requires -more skill to spread paste uniformly on a heavy paper than -on vellum or lining paper. Place one piece of newsboard -on the paper as previously marked, turn them over and rub -down. A piece of cloth held in the hand and used for rubbing -the surface prevents finger marks; or the rubbing may be -done on a piece of paper laid over the surface. The cover -paper should cling firmly to the foundation at every point -and this should be assured before proceeding. Apply paste to -the projecting laps, fold them over and rub down. Treat the -other half in the same manner.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig41.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Plate XL.</span> Pasting the newsboard<br /> -to the vellum back.</p> -</div> - -<p>It is desirable to tie the portfolio together on one side -at least. For this purpose secure tape of harmonizing color -and ⅜ or ½ inch in width. About ½ an inch from and -parallel to the front edges cut a slit through both paper and -newsboard of the same length as the width of the tape. (This -needs to be done with a knife or, better yet, with a chisel.) -Insert a piece of tape from 6 to 9 inches long in each slit and -securely paste at least 1 inch to the inside of the newsboard, -allowing the greater length to project from the outside. -Paste the lining paper on the inside of each half and this will<span class="pagenum" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</span> -cover the pasted end of the tape. The portfolio is then -complete.</p> - -<p>(B). By a different arrangement of tape the same kind -of portfolio may be used as a magazine holder or cover for a -paper book or pamphlet. Plan the newsboard foundations -to project ⅛ of an inch beyond the book on three sides. The -space between the two pieces of newsboard should be at least -an inch greater than the thickness of the book so that the -covers will lie flat when the book is inside. It will be seen -that with so wide a space the inner edge of the newsboard -will not extend as far back as the back of the book, and in -planning the newsboard it should actually be narrower than -the book. Make dimensioned sketches of all pieces and lay -out and cut all parts.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig42.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Plate XLI.</span> A magazine in a stiff cover.</p> -</div> - -<p>Construct the covers as for the portfolio, but insert the -tape as follows: About ¾ of an inch from both upper and -lower edges of the back cover, and just where the cover paper -laps onto the vellum, make slits of the same width as the -tape and parallel to the edges. Push one end of the tape -through from the outside and paste, with the end turned -toward the edge. Carry the tape over the adjacent edge<span class="pagenum" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</span> -along inside of the cover and over the opposite edge where -it should be inserted in the second slit and pasted on the -inside as at the other end. A little slackness of tape is not -objectionable. The lining paper may come to the edge of -the tape, or, with more difficulty, be slipped under it.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig43.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Plate XLII.</span> Simple borders suitable for use on a portfolio.</p> -</div> - -<p>When one cover of the book has been placed under the -tape, it should hold it securely. (See Plate XLI.)</p> - -<p>If desired, there is here an excellent opportunity for the -application of a cover design. This may consist of simple -straight line borders in lower grades, or of more elaborate -designs in upper grades. (See Plate XLII.) Lettering -also may be used either singly or combined with decorative -figures. The design should be carefully planned before any -attempt is made to place it upon the finished cover. Erasures -are always noticeable and should be avoided. It is<span class="pagenum" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</span> -recommended that straight lines should be drawn with a -rule, and the distance of the border from the edge measured -either with a rule or a piece of paper. The decoration may be -applied with ink, crayons, or water color. Common ink -diluted gives the effect of a darker tone of the color of the -paper and as it is easily obtained it is on the whole a satisfactory -medium. (See Plate XLIII.)</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig44.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Plate XLIII.</span> Some cover designs made by students at the Sloyd Training<br /> -School, Boston, Mass.</p> -</div> - -<hr class="full x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</span></p> - -<p class="c">Problem XIII</p> -</div> - -<p class="c large">STATIONERY HOLDER</p> - -<p class="less"><span class="smcap">Time</span>: 8 hours.<br /> -<span class="smcap">Materials</span>: Newsboard, vellum and paper.</p> - - - -<p>A very satisfactory stationery holder (see Plates -XLIV and XLV) may be made by substituting pockets, -etc., for the plain lining of the portfolio. Make the outside -as described in Problem XII. Then cut for each half, a -piece of newsboard one-quarter of an inch shorter and -narrower than the outside pieces. Cover one of these -smaller pieces with the same paper that is used on the -outside turning over a margin of one-half an inch on each -of the four sides. At each corner attach suitable pieces -for holding a blotter. (See page 33.) When pressed and -dried this forms a lining for one side. The other piece of -newsboard should be used as a foundation for a “bellows -pocket” for holding stationery. First bind one long edge -with a strip of vellum having it show on the upper surface -for about an inch and a half. The pocket should be made -of vellum and when completed, should be as large as the -newsboard foundation. To give strength and stability -to this cut a piece of paper of the same size as the newsboard. -Plan and cut a piece of vellum 5 inches longer and -an inch and a half wider than this. Lay the paper lining -on the vellum with an equal amount of vellum projecting -at each end, and fold the vellum over one long edge of the -paper for its entire length and to the depth of about one -inch. Paste the hem thus made to the paper but do not -paste the broad face as this will cause wrinkling. Then -fold the vellum over each end of the paper sharply and make<span class="pagenum" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</span> -a reverse fold one inch from the end. Place this vellum -on the newsboard with the hem of the pocket against the -bound edge of the newsboard, and on the other three sides -turn over the projecting vellum and paste to the under -side of the newsboard. Before pasting in this piece and -the blotter for linings, a fastener or tape should be -inserted as already described.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig45.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Plate XLIV.</span> Stationery Holders (closed) made by students at the Boston<br /> -School of Occupational Therapy.</p> -</div> - -<p>The holder may be made more elaborate by adding -a third page which should be narrower than the other two -and when folded together will appear as a flap. Cut a -piece of newsboard for its foundation and fasten to one -of the large pieces in the same manner as the two large -pieces are attached. To line this, cut a piece of newsboard<span class="pagenum" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</span> -one-quarter of an inch shorter and narrower than the -outside piece and cover it with a single piece of vellum; -or pockets may be added and a strap for holding pen or -pencil.</p> - -<p>Some very handsome cases can thus be made by using -wall papers on the broad faces. Narrow stripes or gold -bands used as border decorations on the corners of the -blotter or the edge of the pockets are very effective while -figures well cut may be appliqued to the outside or the inside.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig46.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Plate XLV.</span> An open stationery holder made at the Boston School of<br /> -Occupational Therapy.</p> -</div> - -<p>For fastening, use cord, tape or ribbon which should -be inserted before the linings are pasted in. To illustrate: -Pass a ribbon across the outside of the middle piece, putting -each end through a slit—say one inch from the edge—and -glue these firmly to the newsboard. Through a slit -in the other broad face pass another length of ribbon on -the end of which shall be a Japanese bead; on the narrow -face in similar fashion attach a loop of ribbon (made by -passing both ends through the same slit). When closed -the case may be fastened by putting the bead through the -loop.</p> - -<p>Another style of fastener consists of a cord or braid -similarly inserted with a fancy knot in place of the bead.</p> -<hr class="full x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</span></p> - -<p class="c">Problem XIV</p> -</div> - -<p class="c large">SEWING AND BINDING A BOOK</p> - -<p class="less"><span class="smcap">Time</span>: 10 hours.<br /> -<span class="smcap">Materials</span>: Newsboard,<a id="FNanchor_7" href="#Footnote_7" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> vellum, cover paper, white paper, tape, sewing -linen, and “super.”</p> - - -<p>There are several ways of sewing a book and even more -ways of binding it after it is sewed. The first method here -given is the simplest, and is such as is feasible in a fifth or -sixth grade without a sewing frame, a press, or other apparatus -than the simple tools required in the previous problems.</p> - -<p>First determine the shape and size of the book. It is -better at first not to attempt a book which is very thick, -seven to twelve signatures being sufficient for a beginning. -A “signature” is the name applied to a folded sheet, several -of which go to make up the inside of a book. If the sheet is -folded once it is called a “folio”; if twice, a “quarto”; if -three times, an “octavo.” (See Plate XLVI.) These signatures, -when sewed together, form what is technically known -as “the book,” and the covers and back “the case.”</p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_7" href="#FNanchor_7" class="label">[5]</a> A book-cover may be made of heavier newsboard than the articles -previously described, although in elementary grades it will probably be -more convenient to use one weight only. Number 30 is commonly used -for books of ordinary size (say 7½ × 5¼ inches), while for larger books -(10 × 7 inches) a still heavier board is used.</p> - -</div> - -<p>With a piece of cheap paper experiment a little, folding -it one or more times and if necessary trimming the edges to -change size or proportions. When the size is determined, -cut a sufficient number of sheets, fold, and “stack” (pile) -them for sewing. If the paper provided is too small to be -used for a “quarto,” place one “folio” inside another which -will give two thicknesses of paper at each fold and will have -the same effect as a “quarto.” If desired, two or three<span class="pagenum" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</span> -sheets of paper may be placed together before folding so -that there will be several thicknesses at the back.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig47.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Plate XLVI.</span> Diagram to show methods of folding sheets of paper.</p> -</div> - -<p>These signatures are to be sewed over three pieces of -tape, one to be at the middle of the fold, one from 1 to 1½ -inches from each end, according to the size of the pages. -On the back of the first signature mark carefully the position -of the edges of each piece of tape, and additional points ½ -an inch from each end. The latter points show the location -of the “kettle stitches.”</p> - -<p>Replace this signature on the others and mark across the -backs of all, locating similar points on other signatures with -as much accuracy as possible. (See Plate XLVII.) The major -folds should then be “jogged up” evenly at the back, and the -minor folds at the “head” or top.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</span></p> - -<p>At each point on each signature make a hole for sewing -by opening the signatures and piercing through with a -needle from the back. Replace the signatures in the same -order as before. Cut three pieces of tape about three inches -long. Place the first signature on the deck or table with the -fold of the back toward the operator. The left hand should -be placed inside the signature to receive and return the -threaded needle which is pushed through from the outside -by the right hand. (See Plate XLVIII.) Pass the thread in -through the first hole (leaving an end long enough for -tying), out through the second hole, over the tape, in through -the third hole, out through the fourth hole, over the second -tape, in through the fifth hole, out through the sixth hole, -over the third tape, in through the seventh hole, and out -through the eighth or last hole of the signature.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig48.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Plate XLVII.</span> Marking the signatures before stitching.</p> -</div> - -<p>Close this signature and place the second signature on -top of the first; then pass the thread in through the eighth -hole of the second signature, and out through the seventh -hole, over the tape, in through the sixth hole and so on until<span class="pagenum" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</span> -the thread comes out through the first hole. Tie the thread -to the loose short end in a square or hard knot. Place the -third signature on top of the second and proceed as before. -On reaching the end of the third signature, pass the needle -under the stitch connecting the first and second signatures -and through the loop formed by the thread. (See Plate -XLIX.) Pull tightly to form the “kettle stitch” which -should be made at the end of every signature hereafter. -In the same manner any number of signatures may thus -be sewed to form a book.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig49.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Plate XLVIII.</span> Sewing a book over tapes.</p> -</div> - -<p>For fly-leaves, prepare four single sheets folded once, -to be of the same size as the leaves of the book. Place these -folded sheets one on top of another leaving about ⅛ of an -inch of the folded edge of each exposed, the upper sheet -being protected by a piece of waste paper. Rub paste over -the exposed surface of all four at the same time. (See Plate -L.) Remove the upper sheet and with its pasted edge -downward place it upon the front signature of the book, its -folded edge being flush with the folded edges of the sewed -part, and the tapes thrown back out of the way. After rubbing -this sheet well down, open it and place the second sheet<span class="pagenum" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</span> -inside the first, having its pasted edge downward also. See -that the folds exactly fit, and rub down the second sheet. -Turn the book over and repeat the process on the opposite -side. (See page 93-D). Before proceeding farther the “book” -should be dried under weight.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig50.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Plate XLIX.</span> The needle is in position to form the “kettle stitch.”</p> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter1"> -<img src="images/fig51.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Plate L.</span> Applying paste to the folds of the fly-leaves.</p> -</div> - -<p>Lay the “book” flat on the desk and with a wooden -mallet hammer the folds at the back which will make the -signatures lie close together. Turn the “book” over and -repeat the process. A few strokes are sufficient. Cover the -back with paste (or, if available, hot glue; do not attempt -cold), and rub it well in with the fingers that it may hold the -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</span>signatures together and prevent their spreading. Use only a -thin, even coat of paste; pull the tapes tightly across the -back, and paste their ends to the outside leaves.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig52.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Plate LI.</span> Dimensioned sketches of the parts of a book.</p> -</div> - -<p>Cut a strip of “super” a little shorter than the length -of the back, and wide enough to extend on to the fly-leaves -about 1 inch. Place this over the freshly pasted back and -rub it well on. Paste the part of the “super” which extends -onto each side to the outside leaves over the tapes. When -perfectly dry cut off about two-thirds of the width of each -outside leaf, leaving a stub onto which the super and tapes -are already pasted. The ends of these stubs should be slanted -by cutting from the binding toward the front of the book.</p> - -<p>The “case,” which should be a trifle longer than the -“book,” should be constructed similarly to the portfolio but -without tape or lining paper, and with but one strip of vellum -(the long one) on the back. Plan to have the covers extend -beyond the front and ends of the book about ⅛ of an inch; -but as the newsboard foundations should set forward from -the binding about ¼ of an inch. Their width should -be a trifle less than the width of the pages. Make dimensioned -sketches of all pieces and lay out and cut all parts. -(See Plate LI.)</p> - -<p>Place the pieces of newsboard on each side of the “book” -in the exact position they are intended to occupy. Take a -narrow strip of paper and attach its ends to the outside of -the pieces of newsboard (see Plate LII) so that when the -latter are removed from the “book” they will be attached -to each other the correct distance apart; that is the space -between them will be at least ½ an inch greater than the -thickness of the book. Place them on the vellum and -trace along the inner edge of each after ascertaining that the -distance between them is the same at both ends. Remove -the paper which connects the covers and paste them to -the vellum in the position already marked out, but do not -yet turn over the ends of vellum. Cut a strip of heavy paper<span class="pagenum" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</span> -of just the width of the back of the “book” and paste in the -middle of the piece of vellum, after which the ends of vellum -should be turned over and pasted down. Complete the -“case” by pasting on the cover paper after which it should -be pressed and dried.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig53.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Plate LII.</span> Determining the distance<br /> -between covers.</p> -</div> - -<p>When this is done place the “book” as far back in -the “case” as it is possible to do and be certain that the -edges of the covers are in alignment. Make tiny pencil -marks at the front edge of the leaves to guide the placing -of the “book” after the paste is spread. When necessary -lines or points have been located remove the “book” from -the “case” and prepare to paste.</p> - -<p>Under the first whole leaf place a piece of newspaper -considerably larger than the “book” to protect the pages. -Spread paste over the surface of this leaf, first under the -stub which should then be pushed down with the brush -to hold it securely to the outside leaf; then cover the outside -of the stub with paste. Place the “book” in the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</span> -“case” following the guide lines previously made, and -press the covers together with the hands. Lay the book -on the desk or table with the pasted half down. (See -Plate LIII.) Open at the pasted leaf a very little way and -carefully rub the lining onto the cover, smoothing out any -wrinkles which may appear. Turn the book over and repeat -the process with the other cover. Do not open wide until -the book has been pressed.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig55.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Plate LIII.</span> Pasting “book” inside the “cover.”</p> -</div> - -<p>This should be done very effectually and for this -purpose two boards clamped together with handscrews -make a better press than a weight. If two thin pieces of -tin, zinc, or blotting-paper are placed between the “case” -and the “book” while in press it will prevent the moisture -from being absorbed by the leaves, causing them to wrinkle.</p> - - -<p class="c large"><span class="smcap">Variations</span></p> - -<p>Several variations of the “case” are possible.</p> - -<p>(A). The simplest is to cover the outside corners with -vellum. If this is to be done, the vellum corners are to be<span class="pagenum" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</span> -applied before the cover paper. The width of the corner piece, -exclusive of the laps and measured on a line bisecting -the right-angle, should equal the width of the strip of vellum -which shows at the back. This rule holds true in all high class -bindings such as morocco, Levant, calf, etc. (See Plate LIV.)</p> - -<p>By experimenting a little, a pattern (trapezoid) may -be made for the corner pieces by which to cut them. (See -Plate LIV.) Plan these pieces to extend under the paper -at least ¼ of an inch.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig56.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Plate LIV.</span> Diagram to illustrate the size of separate corners, also<br /> -method of cutting them.</p> -</div> - -<p>After the cover paper has been cut in rectangular shape, -according to the original plan, the two outside corners should -be trimmed to allow the proper amount of vellum to show. -This may be accomplished in one of two ways. Using the -same pattern as for the vellum corners, fit its two opposite -non-parallel edges as close to the corner as possible and cut -along the inside edge of the pattern. Or, one may place the -newsboard on the paper and trace around it, lay off the size -of the finished corner and cut on the resulting oblique line. -After the vellum corners have been pasted on firmly, place -the cover paper carefully and paste it on as already described.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</span></p> - -<p>(B). After the “case” is completed in either of the two -ways described, it may be decorated with lettering or by the -application of other design. In this instance the suggestions -given in connection with the portfolio should be followed.</p> - -<p>(C). The entire “case” may be covered with vellum. -Generally a cloth covering is not desirable on a hand-sewed -book, but if for a special reason one is to be used, have a single -piece of vellum cut large enough to cover both back and -sides. After finding the correct distance between the two -pieces of newsboard, lay them on the vellum, in the manner -already described, trace around them, and complete the -“case” by pasting.</p> -<hr class="full x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</span></p> - -<p class="c">Problem XV</p> -</div> - -<p class="c large">SEWING A BOOK ON A FRAME</p> - -<p class="less"><span class="smcap">Time and Materials</span>: As for Problem X, except bookbinder’s twine is to<br /> -be used instead of tape.</p> - - -<p>To carry out this problem a few common wood-working -tools will be necessary. A sewing frame may be made by -older pupils, a working drawing for which is here given. (See -Plate LV.)</p> - -<p>The wooden upright screws may be purchased. Instead -of tapes the book is to be sewed on bookbinder’s twine. -Cut three pieces 6 inches longer than the distance between -the upper and lower bars. Tie one end of each securely to -the upper bar and slide them along to position. (See Plate -LVI.) Tie the other ends to the lower bar, pulling them as -taut as possible.</p> - -<p>The signatures should be “jogged up” and carefully -placed in a vise, back up and extending above the jaws about -half an inch. It may be better (depending on the shape and -size of the vise) to place the signatures between two boards, -and then the whole in the vise. On the back of one signature -mark off the position of the “kettle stitches” and twine -5 points in all—and, if T-square, try square or triangle are -available, square lines across; otherwise lay off these points -on both outside signatures and thus insure cuts which shall -be “square across” the back. At each point saw across all -signatures with a back saw, making a cut about ⅛ of an inch -deep. Hold the saw perfectly horizontally, that the cuts -may be of uniform depth on all signatures. If vise and saw -are not available, V-cuts may be made on each signature -with scissors instead.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig57.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Plate LV.</span> Working drawing of sewing-frame.</p> -</div> - -<p>To sew a printed book, begin at the front with the -“head” toward the right. Place the first signature on the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</span> -frame (page 1 down), with the back toward the operator -and the three inside cuts against the twine, leaving the cuts -at the ends for the “kettle stitches.” If necessary, move the -pieces of twine along the bars so that they exactly fit the -cuts and sink into them. (See Plate LVI). Tighten the -twine by turning the wooden nuts and commence to sew. -Hold the signature open with the left hand, and, commencing -at the head, (right) insert the needle from the outside through -the first hole. Bring the thread out through the second hole -on the right of the twine, cross it, and return the thread -through the same hole on the left of the twine. It will be -seen that this process is virtually the same as sewing over -tapes. Continue across the first signature and, when completed, -close it, lay the second signature on top, and, in the -same manner, sew across it from left to right. Pull the sewing<span class="pagenum" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</span> -threads tightly and always forward in the direction of -the sewing. If they are pulled backward, the paper will be -torn.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/fig58.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Plate LVI.</span> A sewing-frame in use.</p> -</div> - -<p>After sewing across the second signature, tie the thread -to the loose end as in a book sewed on tapes. When the third -signature has been sewed, make loop stitch as already illustrated, -(forming a part of the “kettle stitch”) and repeat -this stitch at the end of each signature. When the sewing is -finished, grasp the book firmly and slide it up on the cords -about 1½ inches; then cut the twine from the frame, leaving -about 1¼ inches projecting beyond the book on both sides. -Pull the twine with both hands to straighten it. Put in -fly-leaves and “super” and bind as before. The ends of the -twine should be frayed out, and, after the fly-leaves are in, -pasted in fan-shape to the outside leaf. Put on the case as -shown in Problem XIV.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</span></p> - - -<p class="c large"><span class="smcap">Additional Points</span></p> - -<p>(A). The binding may be made stronger by “whip-stitching” -the fly-leaves after they are pasted in. For this -purpose, take an ordinary sewing needle (about No. 2) and -linen thread (No. 35). Begin at the right and, with “over-and-over” -stitches about ¼ of an inch apart, sew through -the outside signature and the fly-leaves. A knot should be -made at each end to fasten the threads. Turn the book over -and repeat the operation on the opposite side.</p> - -<p>(B). If heavy paper is used for the fly-leaves, the outside -leaf should be torn or cut off carefully before putting -on the case. Leave just a narrow margin at the fold to hold -the other half from coming out. This being done, there is -but one thickness with which to line the cover, but two free -leaves are left as before.</p> - -<p>(C). Head-bands may be used on a book sewed on a -frame. Cut pieces to fit across the back of the book and -paste one at each end after the “super” has been pasted on.</p> - -<p>(D). Any book is made more attractive by using -colored “end papers” or fly-leaves. These may be of the -same material as the cover or of contrasting material. -A small surface pattern worked out in crayon or water -color for this purpose makes an excellent problem in applied -design and at the same time adds much to the appearance -of the book. When using any paper for fly-leaves which -has a right and wrong side, the sheets should be folded -wrong side out. Note that only two folios of colored paper -should be used while the other two are white—that is at -each end of the “book” there will be one white folio with -a colored one inside it. When stacking the sheets to apply -the paste, place a colored sheet at the bottom, then a white -sheet, then a colored sheet, and a white sheet on top. -When pasting these to the book, this brings a white sheet -first and a colored sheet inside, so that when pasted to the -“case” one-half forms its lining and the other half is free.</p> -<hr class="full x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</span></p> - -<p class="c">Problem XVI</p> -</div> - -<p class="c large">REBINDING A PAPER-COVERED BOOK</p> - -<p class="less"><span class="smcap">Time and Materials</span>: As for Problem XIV or XV except the “book.”</p> - -<p>Signatures for sewing may be obtained by taking apart -some good paper covered book. Foreign books frequently -come in this shape, and are much less expensive than in any -other binding.</p> - -<p>Carefully remove the cover and the sewing threads, if -any, and scrape the glue from the back. Then proceed with -the sewing and binding as already described.</p> - -<p>It may be desired to have fly-leaves of lithographed or -lining paper. In this case have two rather heavy sheets of -such paper folded once with the plain side out, and two -folded sheets of white paper. When pasting these onto the -book, place a white sheet first, and then place a figured sheet -inside it. When completed, each cover will have a lining -of figured paper faced by a fly-leaf of the same, and a plain -second fly-leaf next to the printed pages.</p> - - -<hr class="full x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p class="c">Problem XVII</p> -</div> - -<p class="c large">BINDING NEW PRINTED SHEETS</p> - -<p class="less"><span class="smcap">Time and Materials</span>: As for Problem XIV or XV except the “book.”</p> - -<p>Unsewed but printed signatures may sometimes be -obtained from a printer or publisher. Fold and assemble -the sheets, using great care to observe the correct order. -Sew and bind by one of the methods already given.</p> -<hr class="full x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</span></p> - -<p class="c">Problem XVIII</p> -</div> - -<p class="c large">REBINDING AN OLD BOOK</p> - -<p class="less"><span class="smcap">Time and Materials</span>: As for Problem XIV or XV except the “book.”</p> - -<p>A school book whose leaves are still in good condition, -but with broken cover or loose binding, may often be preserved -for much longer service by rebinding. Sometimes -one has a worn book which has personal value, and a new -cover is desired.</p> - -<p>First remove the old covers, being careful not to injure -the leaves, pull out the sewing threads and remove glue, -“super,” and fly-leaves.</p> - -<p>Some repairing may also be necessary. Torn edges may -be pasted together or faced with gummed tissue, or, if the -tears are not to deep, the edges may be trimmed off.</p> - -<p>Broken places in the folds may be mended if necessary -by using strips of paper about 1 inch in width and as long as -the leaves. If many strips are pasted onto the folds, the -back of the book will be thick and bulky. For this reason, -a thin tough paper should be used. Paste the fold of two -adjoining leaves lengthwise on the center of one of these -strips, so placed that, however badly torn, the leaves will -assume their proper position, and the extra piece will be on -the outside of the fold.</p> - -<p>Illustrations are usually printed on a single sheet, often -of paper different from the leaves of the book. To insert -these, cover the back with a piece of waste paper, leaving a -margin along one edge as in the case of the fly-leaf. Cover -this margin with paste and insert the leaf in its proper place, -pasting it down to the adjacent leaf. The illustration should -usually be on the right of the book.</p> - -<p>When all repairing has been done, re-assemble the signatures -and bind as a new book.</p> -<hr class="full x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</span></p> - -<p class="c large">ORIGINAL PROBLEMS</p> -</div> - - -<p>A final test of the pupil’s efficiency lies in his ability to -plan and carry to completion an original project. Originality -does not consist in making an article never heard of -before, but in adapting to one’s specific needs, principles and -processes already learned through class instruction.</p> - -<p>A fitting close to a course in elementary book-binding -is such a problem. If pupils choose to make articles -such as the memorandum pad or the hinged covers which -have already been taught, they should be accepted as original -work, provided that each pupil selects the size and -proportions himself, and does not depend on the teacher to -repeat the instruction in detail. Yet more credit should be -given one whose originality extends further as in the case -of a boy who made for his father’s use a holder for conductor’s -checks, or the one who made a mount for telephone -numbers.</p> - -<p>All articles constructed should be such as are appropriately -made of the materials used. Models, such as are -sometimes made of cardboard, to be constructed later of -different materials should be excluded from this course.</p> - -<p>It is by no means essential or desirable that originality -be held in abeyance until the end of the course but rather, -it should be fostered during each succeeding lesson. The -pupils who work more rapidly than the average of the class -may always have on hand an extra piece of work to be done -when the regular assignment has been completed.</p> - -<p>The adaptation of any problem to a specific purpose -should always be considered an opportunity for the development -of class originality. For example, a principal may want -several portfolios in which to keep a particular kind of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</span> -papers; or a set of hinged covers to hold a “Course of -Study” may be desired for each teacher’s desk. These -should be considered class problems and worked out as -such.</p> - -<p>It should be continually borne in mind that the object -of the course is the development of the child. When he is -conscious of the ability to make an article of intrinsic value -a long step has been taken. “To help the pupil to help -himself” is the highest aim of education.</p> - - -<hr class="full x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p class="c large">TEAM WORK</p> -</div> - - -<p>Some of these problems may be given, especially in -older classes as “team work.” The class may be divided -into sections doing specific parts of the work under a foreman.</p> - -<p>This method is a good one when the aim is the output -or when an insight into the construction of articles in large -quantities is desired.</p> -<hr class="full x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</span></p> - -<p class="c large">AFTERWORD</p> -</div> - - -<p>The border-line between educational handwork and -technical bookbinding has now been reached, and it is not -the writer’s purpose to cross it. If this book of problems -assists others in solving the quest for interesting and educational -handwork, its mission will have been accomplished.</p> - -<hr class="full x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - - -<div class="transnote"> - -<p class="c">Transcriber’s Notes:</p> - -<p>Variations in spelling and hyphenation are retained.</p> - -<p>Perceived typographical errors have been changed.</p> - -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin-top:4em'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BOOKBINDING FOR BEGINNERS ***</div> -<div style='text-align:left'> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Updated editions will replace the previous one—the old editions will -be renamed. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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