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| author | nfenwick <nfenwick@pglaf.org> | 2025-02-02 21:50:56 -0800 |
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| committer | nfenwick <nfenwick@pglaf.org> | 2025-02-02 21:50:56 -0800 |
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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..7b89b38 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #68780 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/68780) diff --git a/old/68780-0.txt b/old/68780-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 14235cb..0000000 --- a/old/68780-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8306 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook of Sand and Canvas, by Samuel Bevan - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this eBook. - -Title: Sand and Canvas - Narrative of adventures in Egypt with a sojourn among the artists - in Rome - -Author: Samuel Bevan - -Release Date: August 17, 2022 [eBook #68780] - -Language: English - -Produced by: deaurider and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at - https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images - generously made available by The Internet Archive) - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SAND AND CANVAS *** - - - - - - [Illustration: SAND AND CANVAS - THE CERVARO CAVES.] - - - - - SAND AND CANVAS; - - A - - NARRATIVE OF ADVENTURES IN EGYPT, - - WITH A SOJOURN - - AMONG THE ARTISTS IN ROME. - - - BY SAMUEL BEVAN. - - - LONDON: - CHARLES GILPIN, 5, BISHOPSGATE STREET, WITHOUT. - - MDCCCXLIX. - - - - - LONDON: - RICHARD BARRETT, PRINTER, - MARK LANE. - - - - - TO - - THOMAS WAGHORN, Lieut. R.N., - - WHO BY HIS OWN - - ENERGY, AND INDEFATIGABLE EXERTIONS, - - SUCCEEDED IN ESTABLISHING THE PRACTICABILITY - - OF THE - - OVERLAND ROUTE TO INDIA; - - SACRIFICING HIS TIME AND FORTUNE IN DIVESTING THE EGYPTIAN PORTION - OF THAT ROUTE OF ITS VARIED DISCOMFORTS; FACILITATING BY - THE AID OF STEAM THE PASSAGE OF THE MAHMOUDIEH - AND THE NILE; AND RENDERING SAFE, AND - EVEN AGREEABLE, THE ONCE - DREADED DESERT, - - THESE SKETCHES ARE MOST RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED. - - - - -PREFACE. - - -The matter contained in the following pages has been gathered from a -diary, in which the incidents of each successive day had been regularly -noted down, not with any intention of subsequently submitting them -to the public, but from a belief that the practice, if not actually -instructive, is at least sure to repay the little trouble it occasions. - -As the writer had not been attracted either to Egypt or Italy, by any -of the usual inducements which influence the generality of travellers, -but had been suddenly transplanted, by a somewhat singular chain -of circumstances, from the yellow fogs of the great Metropolis, to -the bracing air and cloudless skies of the Desert, it was suggested -that a relation of his experiences, might possibly present something -new, even upon _those_ countries, without encroaching upon themes -already exhausted by able and experienced travellers. He has not -therefore, carried the reader into the midst of scenes with which he -is already well acquainted, nor are his pages filled with elaborate -descriptions of churches, temples, and palaces--he has not indulged -in rhapsodies upon the pleasant prospects which greeted him, as well -as his predecessors, in a ramble through the garden of Italy, neither -does he seek to parade his own opinions upon the many glorious works of -art, it has been his good fortune to fall in with. All that awaits the -reader, is a simple narrative of adventures during a few months’ active -employment in Egypt, and a description of such places and things, in -Rome and other Italian cities, as are more immediately connected with -modern Art and its numerous votaries. - -The writer trusts that the title of the present volume is too ambiguous -to allow of any feeling of disappointment being engendered in the minds -of those who may take it up for curiosity’s sake, and as Sand and -Canvas are at the best but dry subjects, it will be hardly fair on the -part of such as consent to follow him to the end, to retaliate on the -score of any previous misconception. - - _London, December, 1848._ - - - - -CONTENTS. - - - CHAPTER I. - - PAGE. - - The author meets with an advertisement in “The Times”--Finds an - unexpected charm in his wig--Undergoes a cross-examination--Receives - his credentials--Mistakes his road, and is set right - by a friend--Eats a farewell dinner at Blackwall--And finally - embarks in a new line of business 1 - - - CHAPTER II. - - Discomforts of the Channel--An unpleasant discovery--Horrors - of the Rotonde--A traveller’s toilette--Chalons sur Soane--Lyons--A - transplanted engineer--The Rhone--Arles--The - Mediterranean--Marseilles 8 - - - CHAPTER III. - - The “Minos”--English and French appetites--Leghorn--Towting - Jews--Civita Vecchia--Naples--Formalities of landing--Malta--Mr. - Portenier--The “Lycurge”--Syra 16 - - - CHAPTER IV. - - The harbour of Alexandria--Mr. Furner--Scene at the Hard--A - donkey stand--Triumphal entry into the Great Square--The - “India agency”--The English Okella--Plague seals--Confidential - talk--Mr. Raven--Hassan, the dragoman--The Bazaars--Arab - shopkeepers--The Harraat--Pompey’s Pillar--The baths of Cleopatra 24 - - - CHAPTER V. - - The Café--Arab music--Artful expedient--The Ghawazee and - Kowal--Change of costume--The lady from Beyrout--Odd - procession--Showers of rose water--Arrival of the “Tagus”--The - Overland Mail--Departure of the India-bound passengers--The - Mahmoudieh--Atféh 35 - - - CHAPTER VI. - - The Nile steam boat--A deck dinner--Boulac--The Esbekier--The - “Grand Eastern Hotel”--Mr. Raven’s office--The - transit-business--Loading of the camels--Departure of the - caravan--The Desert--The Stations--Water 45 - - - CHAPTER VII. - - Desert fare--The Bawaub--No. 4 Station--A siesta--The solitary - tree--Pestilential breezes--A dry well--Suez--Waghorn’s - Hotel--The “Berenice”--Return to Cairo--A thirsty driver--Cool - reception at a warm bath--The pendant rag 58 - - - CHAPTER VIII. - - An Egyptian hammam--Inhuman tortures--The barber--The - chiropodist--Delightful respite--Pale ale and Manillas--Raven’s - collection--Dr. A.--Antiquities--Mr. Bell--His African adventures--The - White Nile expedition 70 - - - CHAPTER IX. - - The Nile boat--Voyage down the river--Defensive preparations--Sudden - squall--Narrow escape--Alexandria--Rival hotels--Lessons - in donkeyship--Domestic cookery--The “Great Liverpool”--Physiology - of the Seis 82 - - - CHAPTER X. - - Cairo--The Turkish bazaar--Test of a sword blade--The “Little - Nile”--Recollections of the plague--The Eglintoun tents--Proceedings - in the “Great Square”--Astonishment of the Pasha--A - Mahomedan Dinner-party--Novel dishes--A Jewish wedding--Impertinent - curiosity--The bride’s dower--A cunning Hebrew 93 - - - CHAPTER XI. - - Dwarkanauth Tagore--Storm in the Mahmoudieh--A chapter of - accidents--The half-drowned cadet--Arab knavery--Effects of the - murrain--Donkey-chairs--A midnight gallop--Alteration in prospect--My - van and its occupants--An enraged Portuguese--Disagreeable - situation--Christmas-eve--Midnight interruption--Goose - and Champagne 106 - - - CHAPTER XII. - - Influx of travellers--Provision stores--The preserved “round”--New - Year’s-day--Melancholy opening of New Year--Visit to - the Pyramids--Old Selim--A moonlight walk--The Sphynx and German - savans--Ascent of Cheops--The interior of the Pyramids--Unceremonious - intruders--Trial of skill--A crack shot 123 - - - CHAPTER XIII. - - The village of Sakhara--Sheik’s house--The brick - pyramids--Mummies--The sacred ibis--Return to Cairo--An agreeable - billet--Preparation for a voyage--Disappointment--A parting--The last - journey across the Desert--A dilemma--Bedouin Arabs--No. 4 - Station--Departure from Cairo--Dinner at Mr. L.’s--Alexandria 140 - - - CHAPTER XIV. - - The “Minos” again--Café Francais--The Enfield stage--Departure - from Egypt--Change of boats at Syra--A gale in the - Mediterranean--Malta--The quarantine harbour--Fort Manuel--Inquisitive - guardiano--Travellers’ collections--sanitary regulations and low - diet--The parlatori--Resources in quarantine--Happy release 156 - - - CHAPTER XV. - - Choice of a route--The “Ercolano”--Syracuse--The Albergo del - Sole--Sicilian cobbler--The ear of Dionysius--Beautiful - gardens--Museum--Messina--Ancient - fresco--Tropea--Stromboli--Naples--“Hotel de New - York”--Herculaneum--Pompeii--Streets--Shops--Private houses--Progress - of excavation 168 - - - CHAPTER XVI. - - The Campo Santo--Churches--The Miserere--Curious - sculpture--Agnano--Grotto del Cane--Frogs--Pozzuolo--Cave of the - sybil--Hot springs--Boiled eggs--Hot sand--No end of - phenomena--Baiæ--Vesuvius--Resina--The hermitage--Fatiguing - ascent--The crater--Coming down with a run--The “Mongibello”--Civita - Vecchia--Rome 183 - - - CHAPTER XVII. - - The Roman Douane--The Hotel Cesarj--Meditations--The Caffé - Greco--Its occupants--Morning walk--Wine carts--The - Ruspoli--Bellamy’s toilet--Preparations for the Cervaro--The - robing-room--Choice of a dress--The livery stable--Porta - Maggiore--The Torre dei Schiave--A grand review--The - quarries--Incantation to the sybil--The dinner--Return to Rome 199 - - - CHAPTER XVIII. - - The “Ponte Molle” club--Technical alphabet--Moccoletti--The black - board--Election of candidates--The illustrated - chorus--Harmonies--Change of domicile--The Via Sistina--The Pincian - promenade--Trasteverini--The French Academy--High art and its - votaries--Roman models--Pifferari--Pietro Pombo--The Via - Margutta--L----, and his painting--Extraordinary model--Pictures - and studios 216 - - - CHAPTER XIX. - - The “Greco”--Signor Giovanni--Frequenters of the - Barcaccia--Pietro--The Roman cigar--Caffé du’ Bon Gout--“Punch a la - Romaine”--Italian eating-houses--The Lepri--Old - Aurelio--Terribile--Roman bill of fare--Sweets--English - errors--Dessert--The Lepri Garden--The “Gabbione”--Its - neighbourhood--Fried fish--Alessio--“Una Bomba Alla Cerito” 235 - - - CHAPTER XX. - - The tombola--Mausoleum of Augustus--The montgolfier--Curious - finale--The bigliardo--Pool--Sir T. B.--An amusing acquaintance--The - bewildered barber--The dog “Pincio”--Preparations for - Carnival--Bombarding in the Corso--Characters--Charlatans--The - Festini 247 - - - CHAPTER XXI. - - Journey to Florence--My friend Luish--A suspicious - landlady--Monterosi--Nepi--The hotel--Luish’s hat--Civita - Castellana--Otricoli--My washerwoman’s cousin--The merchandize - cart--Narni--Terni--Pie-di’-Luco--The echo--Strittura--Egg - diet--Fuligno--Perugia--Boarding-houses--Florence 264 - - - CHAPTER XXII. - - The “Porta Rossa”--Journey to Bologna--The Belli - Arti--Arcades--Certosa--Our fellow-travellers--The parrot--Austrian - Douane--Ferrara--Padua--Caffé Pedrocchi--Venice--The Casa - Raffaelli--Gondolas--Luish’s professional pursuits--My friend - D. again--Titian--Military salute--The Passeggiata 280 - - - CHAPTER XXIII. - - The Caffés of Venice--The “Florian”--The “Imperatore - D’Austria”--Piazza--Venetian hawkers--Musicians--Merchants of - Caromel--The Schiavoni--Italian cards--The Birrarie--San Moise--An - accordeon player--Quintavalle--Queer - fish--Dining-rooms--Serenades--Night on the Grand Canal--The - Rialto--San Lazzaro--Malamocco--Chioggia--Captain Rovere in danger 298 - - - CHAPTER XXIV. - - The Ducal Palace--Bridge of Sighs--The Pozzi--Campanile--View - from the summit--Swifts--The pigeons of St. Marks--Departure - from Venice--The Ancona steamer--The Adriatic--Vicissitudes - of a sea-voyage--The unfortunate friar--Pola--Its - antiquities--The hotel--Ancona--The Custom-house--Disappointment--A - village in the Appenines--Fuligno--Assisi--The - boarding-house--San Francesco--Musical shoemakers--Spoleto--My - countrywoman--Terni--Rome 313 - - - CHAPTER XXV. - - Change of domicile--Francesco--Friends from - England--Picture-shops--Old painting--Artists and their - patrons--Mr. Titmarsh--Anecdote of N---- --The dinner at - Bertini’s--The English Academy--Table talk--Harmony--The - Americans--Roman gaieties--Torlonia’s--The Festini--Hospital of - San Michele--The Quirinal--Via Gregoriana--Mr. Raven again--The - English church--The Friends’ meeting-house--Illumination of St. - Peter’s 333 - - - CHAPTER XXVI. - - Tivoli--Country excursions--Ciciliano--Hospitality of the - mountaineers--The Porta San Lorenzo--Visit to the Governor--Another - start northward--Florence--The Uffizii--S----, and his head of - Velasquez--The flood of the Arno--Mr. M.--Lord D.--Unexpected - summons--Pisa--Leghorn--Genoa--The - “Diligence”--Alessandria--Turin--The railway deputation--Expedition - to the Mont Cenis--Susa--Bardoneche--My friend B.’s - mountain ramble--Successful “Jodeln”--The valley of the - Dora Susa--Departure from Turin--Conclusion 351 - - - - -CHAPTER I. - - THE AUTHOR MEETS WITH AN ADVERTISEMENT IN “THE TIMES”--FINDS AN - UNEXPECTED CHARM IN HIS WIG--UNDERGOES A CROSS-EXAMINATION--RECEIVES - HIS CREDENTIALS--MISTAKES HIS ROAD, AND IS SET RIGHT BY A FRIEND--EATS - A FAREWELL DINNER AT BLACKWALL--AND FINALLY EMBARKS IN A NEW LINE OF - BUSINESS. - - -On a sunny morning in the spring of 184--, I sat lingering over the -remains of a late breakfast, at my lodgings in Regent Street. My deed -of partnership with Messrs. ---- having been cancelled but a few days -before, I found myself left without any ostensible means of disposing -advantageously of my time, which began to hang somewhat heavily on my -hands, for although, in London more especially, there are a thousand -ways of _killing time_, it is by no means so easy to hit upon the -right method of making the best use of it. Whilst musing on this -subject, my eyes wandered over the columns of the “_Times_” newspaper, -which lay on the table before me, and having glanced over sundry -announcements of “eligible opportunities,” and notices of various -seductive offers of “Partnership,” my attention was suddenly arrested -by the following: “Wanted immediately, for service in a foreign -country, a gentleman of business-habits and good address. Salary £250. -per annum. All expenses paid. Apply personally to Messrs. * * * *, -Solicitors, Tokenhouse Yard.” - -Whether it was that this particular advertisement seemed to me to -possess a greater claim to good faith than others in the same column, -or that the words “_foreign country_,” had some particular charm about -them, I know not; all I can say is, that in a quarter of an hour after -the third or fourth reading of it, I was on my way to Tokenhouse Yard, -having paid a rather more than ordinary attention to the appearance of -my outer man. - -Arrived at the office of the solicitors, I found upon the staircase, -some ten or more persons of various degrees of respectability, each of -whom seemed to be regarding a scrap of paper which he held in his hand. -With a similar document, I, in my turn was duly served, and found it -inscribed, “* * * * of the Overland, 34, Cornhill, destination Egypt.” -I followed the rest of my fellow-candidates, for such they doubtless -were, into Cornhill, although by the time we got there, I remarked that -the number of them was sensibly diminished; but not daring to enter -the lists with so many individuals, who, if not exactly “_gentlemen_,” -might possibly, in the terms of the advertisement, be more accustomed -to “_business habits_” than myself, I took the precaution of waiting in -ambush near the street door, until, one by one, I had counted them all -out. As I watched their faces to mark what success they might have met -with, I was not very greatly surprised to hear some such expressions -as “No go,” “Walker,” &c., and gathered considerable encouragement -therefrom. Having seen the last of them out, I presented myself and -paper, and was ushered through an outer office, into the presence of -the great “Overland” himself, who, receiving me with a bow, inquired if -I came from his solicitors. - -“I do.” - -“Then go, Sir, and get your hair cut, and return here in a quarter of -an hour.” - -This cool reception might have damped the courage of any applicant -not quite so _hard up_ as myself, and probably if used, had its weight -with many of those who had preceded me. I stood my ground however, and -removing my wig, (rather an exuberant one, by Truefit,) I rammed it -into my hat. - -“Pray, Sir, be seated,” said the “Overland.” - -I took a chair and screwed up my courage for a cross-examination. - -“Can you drive an engine?” - -“I can.” - -“Can you speak French?” - -“Yes.” - -“German and Italian?” - -I nodded affirmatively. - -“Arabic?” I was about to assent to this query also, but suddenly -recollecting that my interrogator might himself be an adept at that -tongue, I seasoned my denial with the assurance that I could make -myself master of it in a fortnight. - -“Do you understand book-keeping by doubly entry?” - -Here _was_ a poser. I have since wondered how I ever got over it. I -winked at the Overland, and replied, “I _ought_ to.” - -“I think you’ll do, Sir,” was his rejoinder; “come and breakfast with -me to-morrow morning.” I bowed and withdrew, and whilst adjusting my -wig in the outer office, I heard an order given to the head clerk -to admit no more applicants. This I regarded as a sure earnest of -an engagement, and began to feel myself a man of business again. I -fancied myself a full head taller than before, and stooped very low -as I threaded some narrow archways near the Bank. How I got home, I -cannot distinctly remember, but I packed my portmanteau in readiness -for an immediate departure, in spite of the remonstrances of my worthy -landlady, who looked on a journey to Egypt in the light of a wanton -sacrifice of my life, assuring me that I should die of the plague in -less than a week after I got there, and making me promise that I would -send her off a mummy immediately on my arrival. - -I was punctual to my appointment next morning, and it was fortunate -that I was so, for * * * * was never known to be a minute behind -time in any thing, and was in the act of pouring out my cup of tea -when I entered his apartment. Had I been four minutes later, I might -have whistled for my new engagement. Our breakfast over, and some -preliminary matters discussed, we hastened to the office. - -“Is that letter ready, Mr. Wateley? Very good. Now, Sir, here are your -credentials; deliver that document on your arrival in Alexandria, to -which you are booked through, viâ Marseilles: call here to-morrow -morning at eight for your despatches, take this cheque, and don’t -bother me any more. Good morning!” - -And the “Overland” vanished into the inner office--the door was shut, -and I _never_ saw him afterwards! - -I suppose I must have stood transfixed for a few moments, for I caught -a juvenile clerk grinning at me like a fiend. Feeling, that if I -hesitated, I ran a chance of being recalled, and losing my new honours, -I ran off to Lombard Street with the cheque; and had the banker’s clerk -asked me if it were honestly come by, I believe I should have answered -in the negative, being somewhat confused by the odd chain of events, -brought about during the last twenty-four hours. - -As I hurried through Cheapside, on my return from the Bank, a hand was -laid on my shoulder, and a familiar voice inquired, “Where I was off -to so fast?” “To Cairo,” I replied, and was again making away, when -my friend politely insinuated that I was on the wrong tack, and ought -to have gone down Leadenhall Street. He was right, and in return for -his information, I consented to partake of some sherry and biscuit -at his counting-house hard by. Here I fell in with one or two others, -who, hearing of the turn my affairs had taken, insisted on my spending -a last evening in their company, and carried me off to a white-bait -dinner at Blackwall, from which we did not return until near midnight. - -I was awakened early the next morning by one of my companions of the -dinner-party, who had made up his mind to see me as far as Paris. He -reminded me of what I had somehow or other totally forgotten, that -passports might _possibly_ be necessary, and in our hurry to secure -these troublesome documents, we overlooked other matters of equal or -even greater importance. I turned my back upon London with considerable -pleasure, finding that the anticipation of novelty and change of scene, -shut the door in the face of all the varied regrets and emotions which -had accompanied my former leave-takings. I felt myself cast once more -upon the world, to begin life as it were, over again among new scenes -and fresh faces, and although I could scarcely be said to have a very -distinct idea, either of my ultimate destination, or of the occupation -in store for me, I felt prepared to view all _en couleur de rose_, and -steer a straight-forward course through all difficulties. - - - - -CHAPTER II. - - DISCOMFORTS OF THE CHANNEL--AN UNPLEASANT DISCOVERY--HORRORS OF - THE ROTONDE--A TRAVELLER’S TOILETTE--CHALONS SUR SOANE--LYONS--A - TRANSPLANTED ENGINEER--THE RHONE--ARLES--THE MEDITERRANEAN--MARSEILLES. - - -My friend and I embarked at Southampton about nightfall, in the -“Robert Burns,” but had scarcely been an hour under weigh, before the -breakage of a piston-key occurred, of which the necessary repair caused -considerable delay. A fresh breeze too springing up, introduced us to -all the horrors of a Channel trip, affording the ladies a good pretext -for imbibing sundry steaming glasses of brandy and water, which, as -I sat on deck, I remarked disappearing by twos and threes down the -“companion.” One good lady solemnly protested that nothing should ever -induce her to return to England by _water_. I fear it will be a long -while before she gets back again. - -On landing at Havre, it occurred to me that I had entirely forgotten to -call at the Overland office for the despatches I was to carry out to -Alexandria. A pretty sample this of my talent for “business!” I was at -a loss whether to go forward or return to London for them, but finding -that I had at least safely retained Mr. Wateley’s letter, which would -serve as an introduction for me, I hurried my friend to the Diligence -office, and secured the coupè for Paris. - -Here I made a halt of one night only, finding, on inquiry at the bureau -of Lafitte, Caillard, that my place was duly booked to Marseilles. -Every one knows the misery of a protracted journey in the “rotonde” -of a French diligence: the wearisome imprisonment of two nights and -days, rendered doubly agonizing by the horrors of a middle seat, where -the unfortunate traveller, lulled perchance by fatigue into temporary -forgetfulness, seeks a pillow on the shoulder of one neighbour, to be -gruntingly repulsed to that of another, equally inexorable. I need -not therefore describe the coach breakfast at Auxerre, nor how we all -fought for a pie-dish of cold water at Saulieu to lay the dust in -our eyes; nor how the conductor, in a blue blouse, would insist upon -squeezing himself in among us, to have a whiff at his pipe, because -three out of the four in the rotonde were comely French lasses, and the -only females in the vehicle. - -We reached Chalons sur Soane at last, though only just in time for -the steamer, which was on the point of starting as we drove on to -the quay. My unfortunate portmanteau was in fact the last article -which found its way on board after me, as I made a desperate leap to -the paddle box, which I succeeded in reaching with difficulty. Paying -immediate court to the steward, I obtained just enough water to relieve -my face from its thick coating of white dust, and then sat down to -some mutton and olives, which served, when moistened by a bottle of -the _Viu du pays_, to restore my equanimity, though I did not feel -fairly comfortable until after a warm bath at the Hotel de Provence at -Lyons. Here I wrote a few letters, and read for the twentieth time my -introductory letter to the agent at Alexandria, which consisted at the -very most of five lines, and entered into no particulars of the service -for which I had been engaged, referring for such, to the despatches I -had so unaccountably left behind me. - -The following morning dawned as brightly as the most fastidious -traveller could desire, and the waiter having called me full two hours -earlier than there was any occasion for, I had ample time to enjoy -my _matin_ of coffee before going down to the quay, where the Arles -steamer lay at her moorings. Here all was bustle and activity, and -every one seemed so busy, that I had explored nearly the whole of the -ship before any one took any notice of me, and was proceeding to make -a critical survey of the engine-room, when a surly voice inquired, -“Now then, wot are _you_ arter?” I had scarce time to reply, before I -was recognized by the querist, one of M.’s old men, promoted to the -drivership of a Rhone steamer. The conversation of this man, during the -time occupied in getting up the steam, afforded me no little amusement, -for he was full of the grievances of French habits and customs, and -declared he should never be quite _comfortable like_, until he had -taken a drink of beer “out of the pewter.” - -On emerging from the hot and greasy engine-room into upper air, I found -the deck completely covered with huge bales of merchandize, going -to Beaucaire, where there is a very large annual fair. We had too a -considerable number of passengers, and it was long past the right -hour for starting, when we cast off, and floated quickly into the -middle of the _Rhone_, which is extremely rapid, and carried us down -at the rate of twelve or fourteen knots an hour. We touched at many -large towns in our passage down the river, and the manœuvering of our -captain to effect a stoppage in the right place was somewhat curious. -His order (in English) to “ease her” would be given about a furlong -above the particular point to be made, and our vessel’s head brought -round towards the current, as she drifted downwards. Then followed the -order “go on ahead;” and thus with about half steam on, and apparently -retracing our course, we generally managed to hit the place to a nicety. - -The banks of the Rhone, though generally but little wooded, are, in -some places, highly picturesque. Here and there, an old castle in -ruins, perched on a high and naked rock, forms a pretty feature in the -passing landscape, though we shot so quickly by, that we had barely -time to remark anything. As we neared the Pont du St. Esprit, the -river became more rapid, and when I caught sight of the bridge, with -its twenty or more arches, and compared their apparent width with that -of our good ship, I confess to having shared rather largely in the -general feeling of uneasiness, and selected a loose table to lay hold -of in the event of a smash. We shot through, however, almost before -we were aware of it, clearing the sides by a foot or two only. The -dexterity with which the Rhone pilots manage these large vessels in -so swift a stream is really remarkable. At Avignon we put on shore -many of our passengers, who preferred proceeding by “diligence” to -Marseilles, and at Beaucaire we were detained an hour in discharging -our bulky merchandize, so that it was dark ere we made a final halt at -Arles, a town of considerable antiquity, on the left bank of the river. -There was a great scrimmage for beds on the part of some few of the -English on board; for our countrymen, when on their travels, are very -prone to betray a feeling of selfishness, which astonishes, and often -disgusts, our neighbours on the other side the Channel. I stuck to my -trunks, which I am never satisfied to leave to the tender mercies of a -porter, and on arriving at the wretched inn, I found but one bed-room -unoccupied, and this I was glad enough to appropriate, although my -mattress of Indian corn was so filled with sundry unpleasant nocturnal -disturbers, that I had no great reason to be elated at my good fortune. - -I had no time to view the antiquities of the ancient city of Arles, -so was fain to satisfy myself with a sufficiently lucid description -of them, to be found in Murray’s hand-book. We had a delightful steam -to Marseilles, though the change from the sweetness of the sea-breeze -and blue water, to the stinks and exhalations of its closed harbour, -was any thing but refreshing. From its very narrow outlet, the -port of Marseilles is perhaps as bad in this respect as any in the -Mediterranean. The custom-house was soon passed, for, contrary to my -expectation, I had nothing to pay. How they manage to keep a watch over -the whole of this large harbour, I can scarcely imagine; land where -you will, at any of its numberless steps, or jump quietly ashore from -between the hulks of two big ships, and you are equally sure to be -popped upon by some sleepless custom-house official. - -I took up my quarters at the “Hotel Paradis,” agreeably to a -recommendation I had received before leaving London, and a more -comfortable inn I was seldom at, though at many a more expensive one. -On going down to the quay appropriated to the Levant steamers, I -discovered that a berth had been secured for me as far as Alexandria, -on board the “Minos,” and that she was not to sail for two days. These -I employed in seeing what I could of the town and its environs, though -there is but little to interest the passing stranger. I think the -greater part of my time was spent in rattling about in “cabriolets,” -for the heat was so oppressive that to walk with any comfort was -impossible. On a hill above the town, there are some pleasant gardens, -laid out by Napoleon, which command a beautiful sea-view. Here of -an evening, one may meet the worthy Marsiglians, with their wives -and daughters, who enjoy their coffee and small beer, away from the -dust and heat of the city. I had the temerity to venture into the -theatre, but before the end of the first act, was glad to make a -precipitate retreat in favour of a neighbouring “cafè,” where, sipping -raspberry-water, I was treated to a concert on the gratis principle, -which I found nearly as good as “Les Diamans de la Couronne,” much -cooler, and less expensive. - - - - -CHAPTER III. - - THE “MINOS”--ENGLISH AND FRENCH APPETITES--LEGHORN--TOWTING - JEWS--CIVITA VECCHIA--NAPLES--FORMALITIES OF LANDING--MALTA--MR. - PORTENIER--THE “LYCURGE”--SYRA. - - -I quitted Marseilles in the “Minos” steamer on the evening of June -21st, in company with some twenty fellow-passengers, bound to various -parts of the Mediterranean. Amongst them was the venerable Bishop of -Antioch, with a numerous suite of attendant priests, and a sprinkling -of my own countrypeople; but I soon discovered that I was the only -passenger going to the far East. The “Minos” is one of a fine class -of armed French steamers, which serve the Mediterranean, running from -Marseilles to Malta, Syra and Alexandria, calling at most of the larger -ports on the southern coast of Italy. The accommodation on board these -vessels is perfect, and the discipline of the first order, and they -are withal so strongly built, that they defy the ugliest weather, and -are very rarely overdue. I found myself in possession of a snug berth -in the second cabin, and at dinner-time made the acquaintance of my -fellow-travellers, the ship’s doctor taking the head of the table. -Two meals, the one a dejeuner à la fourchette at ten, the other, a -plentiful dinner at five o’clock, were the only ones I ever got a sight -of, such being included in the cabin fare; and as I was invariably -ready for breakfast long before ten, and always hungry again after -dinner, I became a pretty good customer of the cook on deck, who by -the time I had finished my voyage, had a considerable score against -me for sundry stray cutlets and “cornichons,” devoured at the door of -the caboose, to the great surprise of the captain and his officers, -who made no allowance for the appetizing effect of the sea-breeze and -bracing air of the Mediterranean. - -The sudden stopping of the monotonous jog of the engines, awoke me -about half-past six on the second morning of our voyage. On gaining the -deck, I found we had dropped anchor off Leghorn, famed as I rightly -remembered, for straw-bonnets and Jews. Having taken the precaution -at Marseilles, to have my passport properly _visè_, I accompanied two -French gentlemen on shore, to wile away the few hours of our stay, -and by way of a cicerone, we took into our service the loquacious old -boatman who conveyed us to land. There are not many objects of interest -at Leghorn, which can be visited within the compass of a few hours. -The English cemetery possesses a melancholy sort of attraction, and -is well worth seeing, though it is not the most cheering thing to -loiter among the graves of one’s countrymen, and decipher epitaphs upon -disasters at sea and cholera morbus. - -The chief street of the town is lined on either side with excellent -shops, abounding with wares from all parts of the globe; whilst -perambulating vendors of razors and pocket-pistols, besiege you at -every ten paces, not to mention the Jew drapers, who, like their -brethren in Holywell Street, _towt_ in person at their own shop-doors -to entreat an inspection of their goods. One street is a perfect Bazaar -of yellow-looking ornaments, in thin gold and filigree work, such as -brooches, and enormous ear-drops, highly prized by the dressy Contadine. - -The following day, we paid a similar brief and passing visit at -Civita Vecchia, a papal port, of much less importance than Leghorn, -although its contiguity to Rome causes considerable traffic. We passed -afterwards close to the Island of Elba, reaching the Bay of Naples on -the twenty-fifth, or in three days and two nights from Marseilles, -including our protracted stoppages. The view from our anchorage was -beautiful in the extreme, appearing very different from anything I had -been led to expect from the accounts of travelled acquaintance, who are -fond of comparing the Bay of Naples to that of Swansea, which latter, -although pretty enough, lacks the all-important features of islands -and volcano, and is seldom to be seen in the colours afforded by an -Italian atmosphere. Previous to going on shore, our captain intimated -that our stay was limited to four hours, a piece of information which -decided me on making no effort to see anything of the town, resolving, -however, to return to Naples at some future period, to feast at leisure -on its beauties. I was not suffered to land without showing my passport -in three several places, and being felt all over by a dirty underling -officer, whose delight was extreme on finding in my case two cigars, -the last of my small stock from England. He was making off, to hand -them (as he said) to his superior, when I thought it better to make -a compromise by giving him one, whilst I put the other in my mouth. -Nothing can exceed the vigilance of a Neapolitan in his search after -tobacco, of which the importation is strictly forbidden. I was detained -so very long by the formalities of landing, that by the time I had -edged my way through a densely crowded market, in a street contiguous -to the shore, and made sundry stoppages at the little stalls where -cooling drinks are sold, I found my furlough very nearly expired. At -this time I could speak no Italian whatever, and know not how I managed -to make myself intelligible in certain inquiries about the Toledo, -which I was anxious to reach; but I am very sure that I never got so -far, and that after walking a long way to no purpose, I was compelled -to retrace my steps and return to the “Minos.” - -Two more weary days of steaming brought us to Malta, and a truce -to the miseries of passports and customs. I had no sooner finished -dressing, for it was quite early when we entered the harbour, than a -portly individual descended into the cabin, inquiring if Mr. W----n, -were on board. The inquiry being made in English, I replied at once -in the negative; and learning that my questioner was W----n’s agent -in Malta, I showed him my letter of introduction to Mr. Portenier of -Alexandria. “Hah!” said he, as he rapidly scanned it, “I shall then -have the pleasure of introducing you, as Mr. Portenier is here at this -moment on his way to England.” We then hailed a boat and rowed away -to the quarantine harbour, where, on landing at the lazaretto, I was -forthwith made acquainted with a gentleman, who was leaning over a -rail in company with a dozen others, all busily engaged in sucking -oranges--I was most politely received,--and upon hearing my letter, -for I was not allowed to place it in his hands, my new acquaintance -wished me a pleasant voyage, saying that I should find Mr. Furner -in Alexandria, who would receive me in his stead, and give me all -necessary instructions. I made some few inquiries as to the nature -of my probable employment in Egypt, but received no more definite an -answer than that I should find out when I got there! Telling me that he -would be back again in September, we wished each other “good morning,” -and Mr. Gallia, for such was the name of my Maltese friend, conducted -me to his office in the town. - -Malta is certainly not the most agreeable place to walk about in on -a broiling hot morning, and we ascended so many steep steps, and had -so much ground to get over, that I was heartily tired by the time -we reached Mr. Gallia’s place of business, where I waited for a few -letters, and then begged to be recommended to some good hotel, where I -could find a warm bath and a breakfast. My request was met half way, by -a very polite offer of the services of one of the juniors to shew me -about the place, a proposal which I accepted with many acknowledgments. -We visited the governor’s palace, and mounted to the telegraph tower, -from whence is a good view over the island. It appears remarkably -sterile, and exhibits little more than low ranges of naked hills, -with here and there an insignificant village. The church of St. John -abounds with interesting mementos of the Knights of Malta, and boasts -some good tapestries and paintings, and an _extraordinary_ altar-piece -of lapis-lazuli, the which, all and sundry may be found described in -detail in every guide book to the East, and need no further comment on -my part. My kind cicerone dined with me at Baker’s Hotel, introducing -me to some novel fruits and dishes. Altogether I was much gratified -with my one day in Malta, where an English sovereign changes for -twenty shillings and sixpence, and “Cote Roti” is only half-a-crown -the bottle. Here I quitted the “Minos” for the “Lycurge,” another -steamer of the same size, and once on board, I discovered that I was -in quarantine, and entirely cut off from all further communication -with the shore. My baggage was all stowed in my berth, even to the -portmanteau, which is not generally allowed below; and I pounced with -much delight upon a clean shirt and other luxuries, which I feared I -should have difficulty in obtaining. - -On touching at Syra, where we fell in with the line of steamers from -Constantinople, we took on board a number of Turkish families, -which gave our deck, for they were none of them cabin passengers, a -very novel appearance. The men smoked away the time on their prayer -carpets, watching the gambols of their children, and leaving unheeded -and unnoticed the poor women, who sat huddled away in one mass as much -out of view as possible, and veiled up to the eyes in black silk. At -their mid-day meal, however, there was a general commotion, and a -great scrambling round a large wooden bowl of mish-mish, into which -all dipped their fingers most unceremoniously. In return for a pencil -sketch which I made of one of the men, I was invited to partake of -his coffee and pipe, and a seat on his mat--though I found the latter -involved so very uncomfortable a position, that I could not long enjoy -his company. The coffee and long chibouk were excellent. - - - - -CHAPTER IV. - - THE HARBOUR OF ALEXANDRIA--MR. FURNER--SCENE AT THE HARD--A DONKEY - STAND--TRIUMPHAL ENTRY INTO THE GREAT SQUARE--THE “INDIA AGENCY”--THE - ENGLISH OKELLA--PLAGUE SEALS--CONFIDENTIAL TALK--MR. RAVEN--HASSAN, - THE DRAGOMAN--THE BAZAARS--ARAB SHOPKEEPERS--THE HARRAAT--POMPEY’S - PILLAR--THE BATHS OF CLEOPATRA. - - -We reached Alexandria on the 2nd of July, and long before our paddles -had ceased moving, we were besieged by a clamorous set of savages in -boats, who, clinging to the sides of our vessel, were plentifully -greeted with hot water, by the captain’s order, and compelled to -retire to a respectful distance, whilst they kept up a continued -fire of Arabic, and caused us no little amusement. This was my first -introduction to the Modern Egyptians, and when I looked from these -half-naked fellows to the shore, and saw the long row-range of -sand-hills, and the dismal looking habitations that studded the sides -of the harbour, I thought my lines could hardly be said to be cast in -pleasant places. Much time was not, however, given me for reflection, -as the dropping of the anchor soon aroused me from my reverie. The -passengers got away in small parties, reaching the shore in boats, -and I was leaning over the ship’s side to make my selection, when a -big-whiskered Frank underneath, startled me with a “Hallo! there; are -you for Waghorn?” My reply was followed by an invitation to get into -his boat. As we rowed ashore, I found that I had fallen into the hands -of Mr. Furner, the very man of whom Portenier had made mention as his -_locum tenens_. - -I shall never forget the scene that awaited us on landing at the -hard. Camels, donkeys, merchandize of every description, shrieking -women, boys, and greasy Arabs, were jumbled together in indescribable -confusion; the men fighting and cuffing one another, with the most -violent gesticulations, in their anxiety to appropriate the luggage -of the newly arrived passengers, in order to convey it to the city. -Furner, armed with a huge whip, which I learnt to call by the name of -“_Korbash_,” dealt his blows right and left on the heads and shoulders -of the natives, and speedily cleared a way for us to where a group of -donkeys were standing, all saddled and bridled. My friend, selecting -the two which he considered the best, told me to mount; an injunction -which I mechanically obeyed, for I scarcely knew what I was doing, and -was querying with myself whether my Ramsgate and Blackheath experience -in donkey-exercise would avail me aught on the present occasion. The -saddles were of stuffed carpet, and very high, and my stirrup-leather -broke with me on getting up, an accident no sooner remarked by Furner, -than my donkey-boy was rewarded with a little of the “korbash.” To -tie it up again, was the work of a moment, and then off we went at a -gallop, with a boy at each tail, through some narrow streets, between -high walls, where, in addition to the exertion required in keeping my -seat, I had continually to bob my head to avoid being knocked off my -perch by some passing camel, which, with its ponderous and enormous -load, would fill up the whole of the street. Ever and anon, my -donkey-boy, by a fearful thwack “_a posteriori_,” would give my animal -a right or left-handed bias, sufficient almost to make me lose my -equilibrium, while Furner, who rode behind, could scarce keep his seat -for laughter. Five minutes hard riding brought us into the middle of -a crowded bazaar, and we were forced to relapse into a trot, our boys -clearing a space before us by repeated cries of “_shimalek! aminak! -ariglak!_”[1] &c. The scrambling about of the poor Arab women, in their -efforts to get out of the way, was at once ludicrous and painful; and I -was unfeignedly glad when we suddenly emerged into the great square -of Alexandria, and pulled up at the door of “Waghorn’s India agency.” - -[Illustration: THE AUTHOR’S ENTRY INTO ALEXANDRIA.] - -Hitherto, I had had little or no opportunity of saying anything -respecting my own business, to Furner, who had very naturally taken -me for an India-bound passenger, and it was, therefore, with some -degree of surprise that he perused Mr. Waghorn’s letter to Portenier. -I was saved for the moment from the deluge of questions with which he -seemed ready to overwhelm me, by his suddenly calling to mind that it -was considerably past his ordinary breakfast hour; and having learned -just enough to satisfy him that I was a duly accredited agent of the -“Overland,” he politely asked me to share his morning meal. He was -living, he said, in one of Waghorn’s houses in the English “okella,” -where, as Portenier was away, there would be ample room for me, and -thither accordingly, he sent my portmanteau. Crossing the Great Square, -and entering a large gateway, we ascended to a covered gallery, -extending round the inner sides of the “_okella_,” and forming a sort -of common hall of entrance to the numerous houses therein comprised. -I remarked on each door that we passed, one or more spots of red -wax. This, Furner informed me, was the plague-seal, placed there by -the authorities, to prevent the egress of the inmates, though he -immediately relieved my now critically sensitive nerves, by adding, -that they were at least of two years’ standing. - -Furner’s dwelling consisted of a large upper-floor of five rooms, with -kitchen and servants’ rooms above, the whole sumptuously furnished -according to the Eastern notions of comfort, with elegant divans and -polished stone floors. I was too hungry on entering to take more than -a hasty survey of what I saw, the more especially as sundry tempting -looking dishes of novel appearance stood ready on the breakfast table, -beside a noble Britannia metal tea-pot, which possessed for me a -peculiar charm, after having been debarred for a whole week from a -taste of the grateful infusion. As we refreshed ourselves, I acquainted -Furner with the circumstances under which I had arrived in Egypt, -detailing to him my engagement with Mr. Waghorn, and receiving in -return a description of my future companions in office, with divers -hints of a friendly nature as to the position I ought to take up among -them. This I found to be chiefly regulated by the nature of our several -engagements, and had the satisfaction of learning from Furner that -I was appointed to as good a post as any one, and equal in point of -emolument to that of any English _employè_ in Egypt. - -We had scarcely finished our meal, when a loud thumping at the -outer-door announced a visitor. This proved to be Mr. Raven, the -resident partner, fresh from Cairo, to whom I was forthwith introduced. -This gentleman was, in the first instance connected with a Mr. Hill, -who is since deceased, and has done a great deal towards establishing -and improving the communication between Cairo and Suez, having been -indeed, in conjunction with his late associate, one, if not _the_ -projector of the original Transit Company. It needed however the -enterprizing spirit and untiring perseverance of Mr. Waghorn, before -the undertaking could be brought to assume any thing like a flourishing -appearance; and now that the energies of both are united in one common -object, the Egyptian portion of the Overland journey is as perfect as -individuals[2] can make it. - -From Mr. Raven, who had been apprised by letter of my anticipated -arrival, I received orders to await the arrival of the next steamer -from Southampton, and conduct the passengers to Cairo, which would, he -added, give me a tolerably good insight into the routine of business. -As it wanted nearly a fortnight to such time, I found I should have -ample leisure to make myself acquainted with Alexandria, and to pick -up, if possible, some few sentences of Arabic. For this purpose I -enlisted into my service the most sagacious of our Dragomen, whom I -found a very useful and intelligent fellow. As he possessed a good -knowledge of English, he served me as a walking lexicon, and would -render for me the more familiar words and sentences, taking great pains -to ensure their correct accent. - -Our first day’s ramble was confined pretty much to the Bazaars, which -form the stranger’s chief object of attraction in an oriental town. -Different quarters are devoted to the sale of the various sorts of -merchandize, and you may pass successively through an avenue of -tailors’ shops, a street of dried dates and quaint-looking groceries, a -gaudy labyrinth of rugs and prayer-carpets, and a lane of pipe-sticks -and tobacco shops. These are for the most part protected from the -sun by a loose boarding over head, devoid of all nails or fastening, -so that in blusterous weather, the passer-by is occasionally greeted -with a falling plank or stray piece of timber, dislodged by the wind. -It requires also considerable caution in threading your way through -these narrow passages, as in endeavouring to avoid the heavy tread of -a laden camel, you are possibly knocked down by a donkey, or receive -an unwelcome salute in the side or stomach from the bony knee of its -rider, who passes quickly onward without a murmur of apology. - -The shops which compose these Bazaars, are neither more nor less than -large wooden boxes, ranged along a raised platform on either side -the way, open only in front, and furnished with shutters and wooden -locks, which are secured at night and during the _siesta_. Some -have a neat sort of railing, and are provided with little seats and -stuffed cushions, to which a purchaser to any considerable extent is -immediately invited and served with a _chibouke_. During the puffing -that ensues, the buyer and seller are occupied in settling the price of -the required commodity, the one offering half as much as he intends to -give, and the other asking double what he thinks of taking, so that, -at the end may be of half-an-hour, they contrive to meet, and a little -cup of thick unsweetened coffee from a neighbouring shop, completes -the bargain. The purchaser is expected to give a trifling present to -the servant of the merchant, who helps him on with his slippers, left -during the interview, in the street below. - -The “Harraat,” or walking-auction, forms a most amusing scene, and -in order to view it to the best advantage, Hassan got me a seat on -the divan of one of his acquaintance in the Bazaar. The goods to be -disposed of, are held at arm’s length above the head, and as soon -as the owner has obtained a reasonable offer, he rushes up and down -the Bazaar shouting “harraat, harraat!” getting every now and then a -fresh bid until he finds no one is inclined to advance, when he is -compelled to let his wares go to the last bidder. In this manner I -saw silver-mounted pistols sold for fifteen shillings the pair; Arab -scymitars, jackets and waistcoats embroidered with lace, scarfs, -ink-stands, and red caps, and some amber mouth-pieces; of these some -would fetch their full value, whilst others would go for a mere song: -and on the whole I would rather purchase in the “harraat,” than run the -risk of a lengthy bargain at a shop. - -In the evening, Furner insisted on my taking another lesson in -donkey-riding, so selecting two of the best looking from the _stand_ -close to our office door, we cantered through the square towards -Cleopatra’s Needle, which forms a prominent object on the sea-shore, -just outside the town. On our way, we passed through a dirty Arab -village, where we were besieged by a crowd of urchins who begged of -and then threw stones at us. We were compelled to gallop away as fast -as our donkeys would go, to get out of the reach of the heavy missiles -with which they occasionally obliged us, though had their numbers -been less formidable, it is probable we should have stood our ground -and shewed fight. For this sort of reception we were indebted to our -Frank costume; for I found a few weeks afterwards, when I had adopted -the dress of the country, that I could pass the same spot, and others -equally notorious, unmolested. - -From the Needles, we made a long round to Pompey’s Pillar and the Baths -of Cleopatra. There is a good view from the base of the former over -the Mahmoudieh Canal, which fertilizes in its course a narrow strip -of country, and studded as it mostly is with numerous sails, forms a -curious feature in the landscape. The pillar stands out in solitary -grandeur from a vast plain of ruins and tombs, the site of ancient -Alexandria. Hard by is a little building bearing some resemblance to -a temple; this is a refuge for hard-pressed debtors, a strong-hold -against all pursuit, and so long as they remain under its friendly -shelter, neither law nor remorseless creditor has power to lay hands -upon them. Our road to what are said to be the Baths of Cleopatra, lay -through a bustling and most dirty street of low Arab dwellings, to a -kind of quay or shipping place for corn, near to which is a group of -quaint looking wind-mills with six or eight sails each, the whole in -full motion, spinning round with a rushing noise that sorely alarmed -our poor donkeys, although it served to prove to us that there was at -least no lack of corn in Egypt. A dusty gallop of another mile then -brought us to the shore, where we tethered our beasts, and proceeded to -examine the spot where it is alleged that the “Queen of Beauty” used to -perform her ablutions. The Baths consist of three or four rocky caves -open to the sea, where sheltered from the scorching rays of the sun, -the water acquires an enticing temperature, and ripples in and out at a -depth of several feet. Close by the Baths, in a sandy cliff, are some -excavations of prodigious size, which an old Arab informed us were -Catacombs, but as they contain no bones or relics of mortality, and do -not even boast of a stray skull or two, he found us somewhat sceptical; -the old man conducted us through the outermost apartments, but having -no candles, and the evening closing in, we could see but little of -their dimensions, so pitching him a few paras we hastened homewards. - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[1] “To the left; to the right; mind your legs!” - -[2] Since leaving Egypt, I have learnt that the whole concern has -passed into other and more powerful hands, who, by the employment of -considerable capital, have succeeded in facilitating the passage of -travellers across the Isthmus. - - - - -CHAPTER V. - - THE CAFE--ARAB MUSIC--ARTFUL EXPEDIENT--THE GHAWAZEE AND KOWAL--CHANGE - OF COSTUME--THE LADY FROM BEYROUT--ODD PROCESSION--SHOWERS OF ROSE - WATER--ARRIVAL OF THE “TAGUS”--THE OVERLAND MAIL--DEPARTURE OF THE - INDIA-BOUND PASSENGERS--THE MAHMOUDIEH--ATFEH. - - -Alexandria offers to the English stranger very little in the shape of -amusement; at six, when the offices and shops are closed, the square -becomes the public promenade, serving in fact as the “_change_,” where -business-matters and the news of the day are discussed. A gloomy -stillness, however, seems to reign everywhere, for the rumble of wheels -is seldom heard save when the Pasha returns from his evening drive, or -when the carriages belonging to the rival hotels are brought out of -the dusty _remises_, on the arrival of some steamer. There is but one -solitary _Cafè_ in the town, and that by no means an excellent one. It -possesses nevertheless a sort of casino or subscription-room, where -for twelve dollars a year, one may see the principal papers of France -and Italy, and get a chance rubber of billiards with some passing -traveller. This Cafè occupies one corner of the English Okella, and -at the opposite angle is a theatre, where occasionally some Italian -corps, paid for by subscription, are wont to enliven the Alexandrian -beau-monde, by the production of some badly sustained opera, or a few -of Goldoni’s comedies; the orchestra, on such occasions, being composed -of amateurs, with, maybe, a first fiddle of renown from La Scala or the -Fenice. In respect of music, the Arabs are still in the dark ages, and -the performance of Mehemet Ali’s native band, is a grievous infliction -upon the listener, as Furner and myself can testify. A kind old Arab, -who had invited us one day to dinner, had prepared an agreeable -surprise for us, by borrowing the five royal musicians from the “Nile” -steam-frigate, and for three mortal hours or more, we were compelled -to listen to and admire the same _air_ (!) from a combination of three -drums, two whistles, and a nondescript sort of guitar. It is probable -that the whole night would have been devoted to harmony, had not Furner -hit upon the fortunate expedient of gradually inebriating the whole -five with repeated doses of strong brandy and water, which proved a -novel and most enticing beverage. The drums are easily described, -being neither more nor less than diminutive grape jars with the bottom -knocked out, and a bladder strained over the mouth; these vary in -size and consequently in tone, and are played on by the fingers’ ends. - -[Illustration: THE PASHA’S NATIVE BAND.] - -The _Ghawazée_ or dancing-girls of Egypt, are now not often to be met -with, having been banished to a distant part of the country by order -of the Pasha. Their manœuvres are sometimes imitated, however, by -a set of men or boys, called “_Kowāl_,” who, disguised in suitable -apparel, are to be hired for the evening for a mere trifle, and these -fellows exhibited one night at our house before a few English. Their -manner of dancing is not easily to be described, inasmuch, as to a -stranger, their motions are sometimes wholly unintelligible. There is -also much that is unequivocally disgusting, and I never met with any -who wished to witness the exhibition a second time. The scene in the -present instance, lasted about an hour and a-half, with a perpetual -accompaniment of drums and whistles, and I doubt whether the men -themselves were much more weary than we by the time it was over, -though they lay without movement on the floor in a state of profuse -perspiration. - -By the time I had been a fortnight in Egypt, I found the close fitting -Frank clothes I had brought with me, almost insupportable, and I -consequently threw them aside in favour of a linen jacket and wide -trousers, _à la Turke_. Although the change was very agreeable in -point of comfort, it was a long time before I learned to dress myself -properly, for the loose trouser is a most unmanageable garment, and the -silk scarf which encircles the waist is of so preposterous a length, -that it is useless to attempt winding yourself into it, without the aid -of a servant. My early endeavours to arrive at a complete toilet, were -much assisted by a young lady from Beyrout, who being on her way from -Cairo to Malta, was billeted upon us for a few days at the request of -Mr. Raven. We found her, at first, extremely shy, and as she could by -no means be persuaded to raise her veil, it was fully two days before -we saw the light of any part of her countenance, except her eyes, which -glowed out from above her long black nose-case, like two coals. By -degrees this timidity wore off, and she was induced to take her tea -and pipe in our company. She spoke Arabic and Italian, with a very few -words of English, so that it was with considerable difficulty that we -contrived to hold any conversation with her. We gathered from her, -bit by bit, that she is running away from a French husband, who had -once thrown her out of a window, besides attempting her life in other -ways. We were consequently obliged to keep her as much out of sight as -possible, as she was in great trepidation lest he should suddenly make -his appearance and finish her. - -I had at this time an opportunity of witnessing a curious Arab -procession, occurring on the day of some yearly festival; though in -honour of whom or what, I could by no means ascertain. Our dragoman, -Hassan, secured me a good position in one of the narrow streets out -of the square, from whence I was able to view it to advantage. The -procession was led by a dozen men bareheaded, who, formed into a -circle, were making a rapid succession of low bows towards its centre, -chanting at the same time a mournful air; next came a band of native -musicians, followed by a numerous body of men bearing long flags, -similar to those used in the pilgrimage to Mecca; those who came next -upon the scene were a score or more of half-naked fellows, all foaming -and perspiring with excessive exertion, whose sole object seemed to be -the endeavour to pull each other to the ground, by means of the little -top-knot of hair on the crown of the head; a miscellaneous and unruly -crowd of men and boys brought up the rear, whose incessant thumping -of little copper drums, mixing with the shouting and doleful chant -of those who had preceded them, produced as discordant a variety of -noises as I ever remember to have heard. The women took no part in -the procession, saving as lookers on, testifying their appreciation -and enjoyment of the extraordinary display, by a loud gobbling noise -like a chorus of frightened turkey cocks--a noise I believe which none -but an Arab woman _can_ produce;--as the exhibitors moved along, they -as well as the bystanders were plentifully besprinkled with water of -roses and lavender, which we were given to understand was a part of -the performance. So plentiful indeed did Furner and I find this novel -species of baptism, that, being unprovided with umbrellas, we were glad -to beat a precipitate retreat. - -On the evening of July the 18th, the mail steamer “Tagus,” arrived -from Southampton, and from this day, I may date the commencement of -my official duties. We were enjoying our after-dinner pipe in the -verandah, when Hassan announced her near approach, so, making all speed -to the shore, Furner and I rowed off to meet her. On gaining the deck, -we found about two dozen passengers for the Overland, with a prodigious -quantity of baggage piled up in one large heap, from which each was -endeavouring to release his own particular property. The mail consisted -of a number of square tin-boxes, which, when hauled on deck, it was my -duty to see shifted into a barge alongside, destined to convey them -to the mouth of the Mahmoudieh Canal, observing at the same time, that -each individual case was duly ticked off upon the bill of lading. It is -said there is a charm in every description of novelty, but I have yet -to learn where to find that belonging to the landing of a large Indian -mail on a dark and gusty night by the dim light of a ship’s lanthorn. -The oaths of the sailors as they worked the tackle, mingling with the -blowing off of the steam, the shouts of the Arabs, and the bumping -together of boats alongside, formed a confusion of noises perfectly -bewildering, whilst it was with some difficulty that I could maintain -a firm hold at the top of the ladder, from whence I was obliged to -watch the packages in their descent, until a welcome cry of “All out,” -announced a temporary reprieve. Whilst the mail barge was making its -slow way round to the Mahmoudieh, I had time to reach the shore, and -join the passengers at Rey’s Hotel, as they were starting for Moharrem -Bey, which is the point of departure of the passage-boats. The pushing -and scrambling for donkeys, on such occasions, is sometimes highly -amusing, and it is long ere the cavalcade is in motion. When there is -no moon, the scene is lighted up by crackling pots of burning charcoal, -raised aloft on poles, shedding a lurid light. The road to the Canal -involves the passing of two or three gates, strongly fortified, having -lofty tunnel-like arches, and paved with round stones. The pattering of -hoofs as the motley train rushes through, awakens the lazy sentinel, -who presents arms mechanically to those of the flaring pots, and, as -the sound again dies away in the deep sandy road, once more relapses -into slumber. - -Half a mile’s ride brought us to the avenue of trees upon the banks of -the Canal, where the covered passenger-boats were waiting to receive -us, that containing the mails and luggage, having already gone on -a-head. The choice of seats, for berths there were none, was of course -given to the ladies, the rest accommodating themselves where best -they might. Four strong horses, mounted by as many Arab riders, were -attached to the one long iron boat, which contained us all, and the -word having been given to cast loose, we bid a hasty adieu to our -friends on shore, and by a little after midnight, found ourselves -in motion. Our crew consisted of a fat Maltese pilot, two or three -Arabs, and a cook, named Antonio, and it was gratifying to remark, -that the latter had not forgotten several well-stored _cafasses_, or -provision-baskets, with apparatus for making tea and coffee, and a -large brazier of ignited charcoal for heating his kettles. - -The dew was falling like rain, soaking every thing that was exposed to -it, but this did not deter some of our party from throwing themselves -at full length upon the roof, where, snugly shrouded in their cloaks, -they ran a much better chance of getting a little rest, than when -squeezed into a sitting posture below. Having given a look round to see -that all was as it should be, I retired into my little cabin in the -bows, where, after a cold chicken and a bottle of Bass’s ale, I was -soon deep in my first packet of letters from England. Sleep however, -overcame me before I had finished, and I was dreaming most agreeably -of far-off persons and scenes, when a sudden shock and instantaneous -stoppage of the boat, upset my candle and empty beer-bottle, and caused -a dire commotion among the cups and spode-ware in Antonio’s pantry. -I ran on deck immediately, and found, as soon as I could collect my -scattered senses, that our precious Maltese captain had run us into -the bank, having quietly followed the example of those around him, by -dropping to sleep at his tiller. Fortunately for the horses, the rope -had parted with the sudden check, or they would have been pulled into -the Canal, which I afterwards found was not an uncommon occurrence. -After a little delay, we were soon making way again at an average pace -of seven or eight miles an hour, and met with no farther mishap before -day-break. We were amused in the morning by the uncouth gambols of the -buffaloes, who were taking their early bath in the shallow water at the -sides of the Canal. Some of them seemed so accustomed to the passing of -our rope, which often gives them an unpleasant rap over the horns, and -sometimes completely upsets them, that they would duck under water at -the approach of the horses, and rise again as soon as we had shot past. -At mid-day we reached Atféh, a considerable village on the Nile, at the -southern extremity of the Mahmoudieh Canal. - - - - -CHAPTER VI. - - THE NILE STEAM-BOAT--A DECK DINNER--BOULAC--THE ESBEKIER--THE “GRAND - EASTERN HOTEL”--MR. RAVEN’S OFFICE--THE TRANSIT-BUSINESS--LOADING OF - THE CAMELS--DEPARTURE OF THE CARAVAN--THE DESERT--THE STATIONS--WATER. - - -The water in the Mahmoudieh Canal being at this season of the year -very low, and the steep muddy banks extremely slippery, it was no easy -matter to disembark all the heavy luggage belonging to our passengers. -The Arabs, however, are excellent porters, and will carry enormous -loads; so much so, that I was surprised at the apparent facility with -which the shifting of so great a quantity of material was accomplished. -One of Mr. Waghorn’s agents, who is located at Atféh, sends off a lot -of camels to the landing place, which transport the heavier baggage -to the river side, where it is immediately stored on board the Nile -steamer. This agent, who is an intelligent Italian, must lead a weary -life in Atféh, for of all places it has been my lot to visit, I never -saw one so truly forbidding. It is a town of considerable trade, and -the quays are covered with timber and bales of merchandize. Pigs by -the thousand run about in all directions, whilst the path from the -canal-boat to the steamer is through a perfect Slough of Despond. -With the exception of the Pasha’s corn-store, there is but one -decent-looking building in the place: this is, of course, the hotel, -where, on extraordinary occasions they can make up three or four -beds, though woe befall the unhappy wight who trusts himself to the -tender mercies of its host. On the ground-floor is a sort of wine and -spirit-store, where the traveller can be accommodated with all the -various growths of the Levant, and this is perhaps the only redeeming -quality in the character of the “Grand Hotel de France.” - -In the course of two hours, we had everything removed on board a little -steamer, which lay fizzing at the quay side, capable of carrying, at a -pinch, fifty passengers with their effects. On this occasion, we did -not muster much more than half that number, and therefore found ample -accommodation. As for myself, I was so tired with my unusual exertions -of the last few hours, that I had no sooner reached the deck of the -“Cairo,” than I spread out my mat, and was soon in a sound sleep, from -which I was ere long aroused by a great clatter of knives and plates -at the hour of dinner. A long table on the after-part of the deck, was -lined on either side with my voracious countrymen, and although Antonio -tried hard to obtain me a corner seat, his efforts were unavailing, -and instead of being greeted, as I had fondly anticipated, with an -invitation to do as the rest, a long-whiskered officer with his mouth -full of chicken, ordered me to change his plate, very naturally -mistaking me for one of the Arab attendants. I obeyed the order at -once, but fearing that if I staid at the table, I might be subjected -to a renewal of these unceremonious commands, and thus establish a bad -precedent, I beat a retreat towards the caboose, and made friends with -the head engineer, who was in the act of sitting down to a steaming -mess of savoury stew, laid out upon the head of a cask, with a garnish -of sparkling pale ale. On the paddle-box above us, sat the old Reis -or pilot, gazing at us with extreme complacency, whilst waiting for -his turn at the dish. This individual is the most important in the -ship, as, without his knowledge of the river, we should be continually -running aground on one or other of the numerous shoals, which at “low -Nile” render the navigation somewhat intricate and dangerous. There he -sits by day and by night, always at his post, and ever wakeful, giving -an occasional sign to the Arab at the helm.[3] - -We had now progressed a long way up the river, and as yet ungratified -by anything like a prospect, the high muddy banks shutting out from -us all view of the adjacent country. Occasionally we passed within -hail of a Fellah town, and could hear the joyous shouts of the little -children, as they proclaimed the approach of the “_Meerkib-al-nar_,” -or Fireship, as their own language expresses it. As night came on, our -little deck was gradually deserted, very few of the passengers choosing -to encounter a wetting from the dew which was now descending almost as -heavily as rain. I gave one look below to see if there was a chance -of making my bed on or under some table or other, but every available -place was occupied, and I was forced to throw myself upon the deck, -rolled up in a thick Bernous cloak, which defended me from both dew -and mosquitoes, and had it not been for one of the boatmen, who very -unceremoniously walked on my leg, I should have slept undisturbed until -daybreak. - -About ten o’clock on the day following, we were just able to see the -Pyramids of Ghizeh, pointing faintly upwards in the distance, and at -noon reached Boulac,[4] the port of Cairo, where we disembarked, and -rode a mile-and-a-half into the city, some on donkeys, and others in -a sort of donkey chair. Consigning the mail boxes to the care of an -agent, who was in waiting to receive them, I cantered on into Cairo, -under the guidance of the lad, who ran behind me; and passing through -the outer gate of the city, found myself on the Esbikier, or “great -square,” a vast area of dry, cracked mud, surrounded by deep canals, -devoid of water, and bordered by a double row of dusty-looking trees. - -Leaving the Esbikier, we entered a very narrow street, in the which, -about half way down, an overhanging board directs the traveller to -the “Grand Eastern Hotel,” and turning down a still narrower alley, -rendered almost dark by the extreme contiguity of the upper parts -of the houses, we passed under an arched gateway, and entered the -court-yard. A grim-looking Maltese waiter ushered me into the presence -of Mr. Raven, who was busy writing in his office, a little sort of -sanctum on the first-floor, which I shall describe at length hereafter. -This gentleman welcomed me very kindly, inquiring how many passengers I -had, and if they had all found conveyances to the city, &c., but before -he would permit me to answer him, he pointed to a _goolah_ of water -and brandy bottle which stood by, and would hear nothing until I had -taken a draught. - -I then gave him a detailed account of our journey so far, and handed -him a parcel of letters and a passenger list, which I had brought with -me from Alexandria. I had made up my mind to something like a day’s -rest in Cairo, and was therefore somewhat surprised, though by no means -disappointed, when told that I had better accompany the caravan to -Suez, and make preparation for an immediate departure--“And,” added -Raven, “if you want anything to eat, find your way to the kitchen, and -lay hands on anything you most fancy, for if you wait till dinner-time -and sit down with the rest, ten to one but you are called away before -you can swallow a mouthful!” This advice was no sooner given than -acted upon; so, guided by my nose, I passed through sundry passages -and offices, and came upon a whole bevy of greasy Arab cooks, busy in -dishing-up all sorts of good things, and too much occupied to take -any notice of my invasion of their territory. Giving a hasty glance -around, I made choice of a tempting looking chicken, just fresh from -the spit, with which I made off, without apology, although I believe -very greatly to the astonishment of the cooks, who made _des grands -yeux_ at my impudence. An agreeable looking English girl, belonging to -the establishment, whom I encountered in my retreat, introduced me to a -plate and roll of bread, and sitting down I made a capital dinner. - -On my return to Mr. Raven’s office, I found him busy with a list of -the passengers, arranging their various places in the carriages which -were to convey us to Suez. On a divan, under the window, was seated a -portly looking gentleman,[5] in a Turkish dress, very intently conning -over the last batch of Galignani, and smoking a Manilla, whilst one -or two of the passengers who had escaped from the dinner-table, were -changing English money into nine-piastre pieces, and asking innumerable -questions. Motioning me to a seat at a desk alongside him, and at -the same time introducing me to the gentleman upon the sofa, Raven -supplied me with a cheroot and a bottle of pale ale, and handed me a -rough list of the transit accounts to be put into proper form, before -collecting the monies. “When,” said he, “you have receipted all these, -and returned them to me, you may get away as soon as you like.” I found -each little bill to consist of a printed form; so much for transit from -Cairo to Suez, so much for camel-hire for baggage, and a third item -for hotel expenses, the whole very simple and easily comprehended. -The taking of the money was not so readily accomplished, as I had -some little difficulty in making people understand how the charge for -luggage was regulated. The hire of a camel to cross the desert is about -twelve shillings, and his load seldom or never more than two packages; -one on each side. A lady, therefore, with a heavy portmanteau and two -large paper bandboxes, might be called upon to pay a camel and a half, -whilst her husband, with two enormous and weighty bullock trunks, -would probably pay but for one camel. A hat-box and writing-desk have -been assessed at half a camel, for the Bedouins have but little idea -of properly balancing a load; and I have frequently seen a heavy -iron-bound trunk, counterpoised by a huge, but light, paper bonnet-box, -or a colossal carpet-bag and a bird-cage, in ludicrous contraposition. - -The loading takes place in a spacious court-yard at the back of the -hotel, the camels kneeling to receive their burdens, which are secured -in rude net-work bags, and the noise and confusion at such times is -almost distracting. The animals are very touchy, and manifest their -displeasure by a child-like groan, which it is almost distressing to -hear. The motion of their heads too requires constant watching, as -they turn round to bite and snap at the slightest provocation, and seem -to have a peculiar dislike to the Frank dress, which attracts them more -than the blue smocks of the Bedouin. The distribution of the loads is -superintended by different servants of the company from every quarter -of the globe; and as each tries to make himself heard amid the general -din, there is a perfect Babel of tongues. - -With all this, just under the open window of the little room in which -we were sitting, I found my labour in the way of accounts to progress -but slowly; and it was no little relief to me, when the hubbub was -exchanged for a state of comparative quiet, produced by the departure -of the camels with the baggage, which generally precedes the rest of -the caravan. - -By five in the afternoon, everything was reported in readiness for a -start, but as I had occasion to wait for some papers entrusted to me by -Raven, I was almost the last who reached the place of departure. In a -wide part of an adjacent street, I found five or six covered carts with -two wheels, and four stout horses attached to each; these are capable -of holding four persons comfortably, and as they are well balanced, -and run on enormously large wheels, their motion is both easy and -agreeable. Each passenger has his particular seat assigned him before -starting, so that there is no confusion or scrambling for places, care -being also taken not to separate the members of one family more than -can be avoided; children and ladies are generally confided to the -care of the most experienced English drivers, while the gentlemen are -handed over to the tender mercies of some Maltese, or native knight of -the whip, if the caravan be so large as to put all the carriages in -requisition. - -On looking over the list, I found myself booked with two missionaries -and a reverend divine; a fact which manifested a kindly interest in -my welfare on the part of Mr. Raven, who pushed in after me a couple -of black bottles, and gave the order to go forward. Whisking round -the Esbikier, we passed the outer gate and suburbs, and then after -a jolting drive of near a mile through narrow lanes, bordered by -hedge-rows of prickly pear and luxuriant aloes, emerged on to the -smooth sand of the desert; half a mile on, are two curious looking -erections of brick, called the Tombs of the Sheiks, and these once -out of sight, there is nought to greet the eye but a vast expanse of -sand, enclosed at the horizon on either side within a low range of -sand hills, which extend almost without interruption the entire way to -Suez. The route of the caravan is more direct than that taken by the -Israelites formerly, (which is more to the southward, almost without -wells, and hilly,) and with one exception, where it crosses a ridge of -rock, runs due East and West in a straight line. - -[Illustration] - -For the convenience of passengers to and from India, places of refuge -or Stations, have been erected at uniform distances, where man and -beast may find refreshment, and shelter from the scorching sun. Those -travelling through the agency of Messrs. Waghorn,[6] are entitled to -avail themselves to any extent of the accommodation afforded, saving -as to wines, &c., which are charged extra; but should a party making -the journey, independent altogether of such agency, neglect to provide -himself with a ticket of admission to these Stations, he will find -himself condemned to abstinence from food and water for the entire -eighty-four miles, unless he carry with him a sufficient supply. Wells -there are none, saving one of dirty brackish water near Suez, and -this is more often dry than not. At the Stations, however, there is -always an abundant supply of good water, kept cool under ground in -iron tanks, and brought from the Nile in skins at a great expense; and -should this by any untoward chance be wanting, the traveller may slake -his thirst with the best of ale or beer at a shilling the bottle. If -too fastidious to descend to vulgar malt, he will find a modest looking -“_carte des vins_” in the dining-rooms of three out of seven of the -Stations, from which he may make his selection, without risk of being -compelled to complain either of quality or price. - -I am aware that there are many who have found fault with the apparently -high charge made for the transit between Cairo and Suez; but these -may not have sufficiently considered the great trouble and expense -necessarily incurred in providing due accommodation. They have scarcely -any idea of the number of skins of water required to fill one tank, -nor, perhaps, do they reflect, while filling out or polishing their -own skins, and using as much of the precious fluid as they can desire, -that the poor camel or donkey which brought it forty weary miles -from the Nile, returns all the way back again, without having wetted -its lips more than once, if even so much as that. Then again, should -a goat-skin spring a leak, or burst while on the road, which not -unfrequently happens, what is to recompense the poor Bedouin, who has -tramped the whole way on foot, and whose donkey, on which he solely -relies for a livelihood, is the bearer of but one skin of water at a -time.[7] - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[3] Our little vessel when originally sent out to Egypt by the Oriental -Company, was fitted with a rudder-wheel, but as the native boatmen -could never be induced to work it, a long tiller was substituted in its -stead. - -[4] The distance from Atféh to Boulac, by the Nile, is about 120 -English miles. - -[5] Dr. A., an eminent physician, long resident in Cairo, well known by -most who have visited that city. - -[6] 1842-3. - -[7] A young officer, on his way _out_ to India, having upon one -occasion, ordered Champagne, really was, or appeared to be, extremely -annoyed that it was sent up _un_-iced! I never found any one -_returning_, make any unreasonable objections of this kind. - - - - -CHAPTER VII. - - DESERT FARE--THE BAWAUB--NO. 4 STATION--A SIESTA--THE SOLITARY - TREE--PESTILENTIAL BREEZES--A DRY WELL--SUEZ--WAGHORN’S HOTEL--THE - “BERENICE”--RETURN TO CAIRO--A THIRSTY DRIVER--COOL RECEPTION AT A - WARM BATH--THE PENDANT RAG. - - -But to return to our caravan, which we left on the margin of the -desert. Our rate of travelling was about five miles in the hour, for -the track, which in some places, lay over a smooth and tolerably hard -gravel, was at others exchanged for a loose sand, in which our wheels -became buried to the depth of a foot or more, causing a deal of labour -to our horses. At such times, our Seis, or running-footman, one of whom -accompanies each carriage, would apply his shoulder to the wheel and -help us over the soft spot, whilst on occasions we found it necessary -altogether to alight, and unite our efforts. We changed horses at No. -1 Station, which is nine miles from Cairo, and a mere stable, reaching -No. 2, at about ten o’clock. This is a building containing a large -saloon, with divans and a long table, three sleeping rooms, kitchen, -&c., and here we found a good supper laid out, consisting of smoking -dishes of Irish stew, cold turkeys and fowls, and eggs _à discretion_. -During the meal, I was beckoned out of the room by the head driver, -Mr. Hill,[8] to debate as to the length of time we should allow for -resting. As there was a full change of horses for each carriage, I -considered it would be as well to make the most of the cool night air, -and secure a long halt the next day at the centre Station, and our -passengers concurring in this idea, we were soon again _en route_. - -No. 3 Station is a repetition of No. 1, being only a stable, tenanted -by one old melancholy Arab, who, on our arrival, was found squatted -over his little fire of camel’s dung, upon which he was baking his -evening cake of Indian corn. This, with his pipe, and a drink of water, -forms his only food. In the morning, in his scriptural little mill of -two flat stones, he grinds sufficient flour to last him through the -day, tasting nought else until his return to the city, which takes -place when the transit season is over. Such, at least is the old -fellow’s own account of himself; but as very few who cross the desert, -pass by a Station without a call, it is more than probable, that he -picks up something, more palatable than maise-bread, in return for the -sundry half-pints of water and handsful of corn, which he distributes, -sub-rosâ, among his Bedouin friends. - -[Illustration: A HALT IN THE DESERT.] - -Early on the following morning, we came in sight of No. 4, the centre -Station, forty-one miles from Cairo, which, with the one solitary tree -that stands near it, is visible nearly six miles before it is made. -This is a resting-place of much more pretensions than the others, -having an upper-story, with a ricketty flight of stone-steps, and a -tolerably spacious court-yard below, where, at the time of our arrival, -a queer-looking sheep, and some lean shrivelled fowls were sniffing -and pecking about, and scraping up their last earthly meal, whilst -a turkey-cock, perched on an empty _cafass_ or hamper, was dismally -sounding his death-rattle. The live stock, and eatables of all sorts -are brought from Cairo in sufficient quantity to supply the larders of -all the Stations for several weeks, but occasionally, when the number -of passengers to and fro is very large, a sort of famine takes place, -and we have been compelled to subsist for a time upon dates and other -dried fruits, of which there is always a good store; the change of diet -proving rather agreeable than otherwise. Chickens, very lean and tough, -and roasted to dryness, are a standing dish in Egypt, and these with -the larger sorts of fowl, and plenty of curries and Irish-stew, form -the principal fare of the desert.[9] A second course generally makes -its appearance at dinner in the shape of huge rice-puddings, or a sort -of sweetmeat called _mish-mish_, a favourite dish of the Arabs. - -On arriving at No. 4, we found that the cool night air had given us -considerable appetite, and our ablutions performed, there was a general -rush to the long table in the common room, where sundry tea-pots -and coffee-biggins were soon in rapid circulation, and boiled eggs -disappeared by the score; bread there was none, as that becomes too -much dried up by the heat when carried across the desert, but hard -biscuits we found to be an excellent substitute, and the Egyptian -butter is delicious. Breakfast over, I spread my carpet on the top of -a long wooden sideboard, and soon fell fast asleep--my example being -followed by the others who disposed themselves to rest, some in the -bed-rooms, and others on the divans which extend round three sides -of the room. In the middle of the day the heat was excessive--the -thermometer standing at 100° of Fahrenheit--and the slight breath -of air which was stirring outside was so very far preferable to the -confined heat of the rooms, that I left my hard couch for a little -patch of shade under one of the carts, where I was soon joined by one -of my fellow-travellers, with whom I whiled away the hours in chat, -until summoned by Ibraham the cook to another trial of his culinary art. - -At the approach of evening, the horses were again attached to their -respective carts or vans, and after some little jibbing on the part -of the poor animals, who were evidently averse to moving, we were -again upon the desert. The road near the centre Station is hard and -gravelly, and affords most easy travelling for the first mile or -two. We passed within a stone’s throw of the solitary tree before -alluded to, with its sun-burnt branches all festooned with rags; the -followers of the prophet who pass this object on their pilgrimages to -Mecca, hang thereon an old shoe or some portion of a garment by way of -peace-offering. If the wind is stirring, it is quite as well to take -the weather-side of this hanging mass of old clothes, for as there are -few devotees who care to part with anything really serviceable, the -breezes which come athwart the tree are by no means of the most balmy. - -About a quarter of a mile to the southward of this pestilential -landmark, is a pit in the sand, of enormous dimensions, excavated by -the French in the vain hope of obtaining water. Two or three of us -went so far just to gratify our curiosity, but were obliged to use -extreme caution in approaching the edge of the pit. Its diameter is so -great that the well, although one hundred and fifty feet deep, appears -rather shallow than otherwise, and the section of the ground exhibits -a succession of layers of fine sand and gravel, but without the least -appearance of water. Two or three dead animals, for which the well had -served as a pitfall, lay at the bottom. - -The road to No. 5 Station is scarcely to be distinguished, as the -ground is so hard as to take no impress of wheels, and there would be -great difficulty in making it out at all, were it not for the dead and -dying camels and blanched skeletons, which strew the path and serve as -finger-posts. Should a camel drop through exhaustion, and there be no -means at hand of relieving it, the Bedouin removes its load, which is -distributed among the others, and the poor beast is left to die, for to -shorten its miseries by a _coup de grace_, would be at variance with -the law of Mahomet. This is the more to be regretted as these animals -are peculiarly tenacious of life, and when left in this manner, are -sure to fall a prey to the jackal and vulture, who feast upon the -body before life is extinct. A sly bullet from my carbine has often -terminated the agonies of such as I have found thus abandoned in my -frequent journeys, when I could use it without fear of detection, for -the Arabs will not lightly pass over an infringement of their law in -this particular; and as they have, if so inclined, the power of causing -us much trouble, I have invariably sought to be on the best terms with -them. - -Passing the next Station, a mere stable, and still keeping between the -two lines of hills, which increase in height as you approach Suez, we -came suddenly upon No. 6, where, as it was now ten o’clock, we had to -arouse the inmates. This Station is the counterpart of No. 2, and was -tenanted by an agreeable and pretty Englishwoman, who, having in haste, -united herself to an Arab, was now in the solitude of the desert, -repenting at her leisure. Under her good care we remained several -hours, doing ample justice to a plentiful supper, and refreshing -ourselves with a comfortable nap. It was therefore broad daylight -when we reached the well of brackish water, and came in sight of the -walls of Suez, a desolate and miserable town, where there is no water, -save that of the Red Sea, and such as is afforded by a casual shower, -and not the most remote appearance of vegetation in any shape. The -inhabitants, who appear to live exclusively upon fish, and dried fruits -from the interior, consist principally of Jewish merchants and small -Arab traders, for there is considerable traffic between Suez and the -shores of the Red Sea, especially with Aden and Missouah, which latter, -is the chief port of Abyssinia. The Indian steamers come up to within -three or four miles of the town, and obtain a tolerably safe anchorage -outside a perilous bar, which entirely prevents any nearer approach -for vessels drawing more than five feet of water. Communication is -effected, and merchandize shipped, by means of small lateen-rigged -boats, which, if the wind be contrary, are also managed by oars; but in -a high sea, I have sometimes been as long as six hours in getting out -to the steamer. - -Waghorn’s hotel is a quaint-looking low building close to the water’s -edge, containing accommodation for thirty or forty people, and is -managed by a clean bustling Englishwoman and her nephew. Two hundred -yards or so nearer the gate, stands the old hotel, used only on -extraordinary occasions, or when the steamer, not true to her time, -causes a meeting at Suez between the India-bound passengers and those -returning homewards. The little square before the door was filled as -we drove up, with the baggage camels, which having disposed of their -burdens in various heaps upon the ground, were now quietly chewing -the cud, and resting themselves after their weary march, while their -drivers were lolling near, either shrouded in their bernous cloaks -and fast asleep, or lazily getting their morning meal. Portmanteaus, -bullock-trunks, sword-cases, and three-cornered hat-boxes, with all -the innumerable etceteras in the way of baggage, comprising an Indian -outfit, lay scattered about in wild confusion, and it required no -little skill on the part of our drivers to manage a four-in-hand -through such a sea of valuables. Fortunately for myself, the boxes -containing the mails lay all in one heap close to the door of the -hotel, so that my task of counting and checking them was more easily -accomplished than I had anticipated. Consigning them, therefore, -into the hands of Mr. Manson, the agent at Suez, and obtaining from -him a suitable receipt, I was left to discuss an excellent “dejeuner -a-la-fourchette,” provided for me by the good-natured landlady, of whom -I had contrived to get the blind side, by the opportune present of a -few English needles which I happened to have in my valise. - -I learned, on inquiry of the agent, that the “Berenice” Bombay -steamer, which had the day before landed two or three homeward-bound -passengers, and was now lying smoking at her anchorage, was to start at -five in the afternoon; and as the shipment of the mails and luggage is -a work of time and labour, the sooner they were got off the better. I -found this by no means an unpleasant part of my duty, for as there was -a delightful breeze blowing, and the weather of the finest, the sail -down the arm of the gulf into the open water, was extremely pleasant. - -By six o’clock every one was on board, and the “Berenice” under weigh; -and at midnight, I had turned my back upon Suez, with the now nearly -empty carriages, for there were only three passengers, and as it so -happened that neither of these contemplated reaching Alexandria in time -for the English steamer, there was no occasion for any extraordinary -dispatch. We therefore jogged along quietly enough, and for the first -few stages, I found an amusing companion in my driver, a countryman of -my own, who, having been long resident in Egypt, was able to afford -me a good deal of information. He was, however, no follower of Father -Mathew, and falling into the popular error that brandy is the best and -safest restorative in a hot climate, he indulged in such repeated pulls -at the black bottle, that on leaving No. 4 Station, he was compelled to -resign the reins to the attendant _Seis_, and sleep away the effect of -his potations at the bottom of the cart. - -Resting during the hottest part of the day, we reached Cairo at the -close of the second afternoon, where having consigned my travelling -companions to the attentions of the head waiter, I paid my respects -to Mr. Raven, whom I found entertaining a large party of his English -friends, resident in Egypt. Pleading my travel-worn and dusty -condition, for he was leading me in to present me to the ladies, as -a late arrival from England, I begged him to direct me to some good -bath, where I could indulge in the luxuries of soap and hot water. -“There was a good one,” he said, “at the end of the first Bazaar,” -whither accordingly I bent my steps, and passing under a narrow stone -gateway, from whence thin clouds of steam were issuing into upper air, -I was making my way through a damp passage, when I suddenly found -myself arrested by the gripe of a fierce-looking Abyssinian slave, -who luckily perceiving that I was a stranger, drew me back again into -the street with much gesticulation, and pointing to a dirty rag which -hung suspended over the door-way, like a paviour’s wisp, gave me a -shove, which sent me reeling into the Bazaar, considerably surprised -at the curious mode of reception practised at a public Hammam. I had -scarcely recovered my scattered senses, when a Frank tailor, who had -seen the transaction, and evidently pitied my dilemma, emerged from his -little shop, and explained to me that the pendant rag was exhibited as -a sign, to show that the bath was at such times in the occupation of -the ladies, and that in fact the hareem of some great man had but a -short time before engaged the establishment. My forcible ejection was, -therefore, no longer a matter of surprise, the only wonder being, that -I had escaped so cheaply from the hands of the dusky Cerberus on guard. - -My new friend, the tailor, now directed me to another bath at a little -distance off, where I had no difficulty in effecting an entrance, as -this time, and indeed always afterwards, I took especial care to look -out for the rag! Although the Turkish bath has been so often described, -as to have rendered its peculiarities familiar, I shall scarcely -feel satisfied to give a casual glance only at this most gratifying -of luxuries, and shall, therefore, simply relate my own experience, -without venturing to hope that I may furnish anything very new upon the -subject. - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[8] A brother of the late Mr. Hill, before alluded to. - -[9] I once met with a “loin of camel,” at No. 4 Station, a _pièce de -resistance_, I am not ambitious of tasting a second time. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII. - - AN EGYPTIAN HAMMAM--INHUMAN TORTURES--THE BARBER--THE - CHIROPODIST--DELIGHTFUL RESPITE--PALE ALE AND MANILLAS--RAVEN’S - COLLECTION--DR. A.--ANTIQUITIES--MR. BELL--HIS AFRICAN ADVENTURES--THE - WHITE NILE EXPEDITION. - - -Entering a large vaulted chamber of stone, and delivering up my watch -and valuables to a person appointed to receive them, (a precautionary -measure against loss,) I was led by an obsequious and smiling Arab to -one of the numerous little rooms which opened out of it, and shewn to -a queer-looking bed upon the floor, which I forthwith appropriated, -and casting my clothes thereon, they were rolled up in a bundle by -my attendant, and deposited at the head. On parting with my last -garment, I was enveloped in a gaudy carpet, which came up under my -arms, and being drawn together tight at the back, was secured by a -pin. A flowing-white turban, of the finest muslin, was now bound round -my head, and thus accoutred, my feet were thrust into the thongs of a -pair of wooden sandals, and I was led across the outer apartment into -one of much larger dimensions, where, round a fountain of hot water -which squirted up in the centre, were seated some dozen or more of -naked Arabs, sousing and splashing each other like a lot of dolphins. -The atmosphere of this chamber was of such a temperature, as to make me -feel rather uneasy on first entering it, but this feeling soon passed -off, and my guide, seeing that I was all right again, then conducted -me into a little hole of a place, quite filled with dense steam, where -I literally gasped for breath. Here I was committed to the tender -mercies of a black bearded fellow, all reeking with perspiration, who, -forcing me down on a narrow stone slab, where I lay gasping on my back, -proceeded to curry me over with a hard sort of fibrous brush, like the -outer husk of a cocoa-nut. The skin peeled off me in little rolls, to -which my operator exultingly pointed, exclaiming, “_taib, taib!_”[10] -at each stroke of his teazle, until I nearly roared with pain, though -I felt at the same time a most pleasing and indefinable sensation -creeping through me, accompanied by a delicious healthful glow over the -whole of my body. Having pretty well tired himself, and reduced the -whole superficies of my skin to a flaming red colour, he next made a -fine bowl of suds with tow and yellow soap, and lathered over my whole -person, filling my eyes and ears also, and completely preventing any -attempt at expostulation, by the prospect of a plentiful gulp of the -unsavoury compound, if I dared to open my mouth. Having concluded this -portion of the ceremony, my Arab seized me by the nape of the neck, and -settled me into a sitting posture; then from a fountain which gushed -from the wall, he dipped up in a brass basin about half-a-gallon of -scalding water, which he deliberately poured over my head. This I found -to be too much of a good thing, and was taxing me beyond my powers of -endurance, so seizing the brass pan, I refused to submit to any more -of the scalding baptism, unless he could lower the temperature of the -fountain. This was easily managed, as there was both a cold and a -hot-water tap, and I could qualify the water to my liking. - -At this stage of the bath, a man, whose insignia bespoke him a barber, -thrust his head in at the door-way, and inquired if I wanted shaving, -but being answered in the negative, made way for a second individual, -who proved to be the chiropodist in ordinary to the establishment. He, -in like manner, took his departure, evidently astonished at finding -nothing to operate upon. - -My ablutions were now finished, and my first attendant, bringing -dry cloths and a clean turban, re-conducted me to the couch, where, -covering me over with a light blanket, he left me to the enjoyment -of a pipe of fragrant _gibelee_ and a cup of coffee, administered by -another of the numerous servitors. This is probably the most agreeable -part of the whole proceeding, for the feelings which take possession, -both of mind and body, are indescribably pleasurable. One seems to be -inoculated with the genuine elixir of life, and the limbs feel restored -to the elasticity of early youth, whilst the mind appears for the -moment to be divested of all care and solicitude. - -In the present instance, however, this enviable state of things was -not suffered to be of long duration, for I was speedily recalled to -a full sense of my position, by the pertinacious corn-cutter, who, -under cover of my closed eye-lids, was scraping away at my heels with -a piece of pumice-stone, and tickling me back into consciousness. -Having previously declined his services, I thought it no harm to repeat -my disinclination for them, by a well-directed kick, which sent him -rolling. But my hopes of enjoying the pipe and coffee were destined -to be signally defeated, for no sooner had I got rid of my Egyptian -Eisenberg, than another tormentor made his appearance. As I lay, I was -compelled to submit to the cracking of all my joints; my head was -forced back farther than I ever fancied it _would_ go, and then twisted -both ways round, and again downwards: every finger and toe was pulled -at and cracked, and, finally, the breath was nearly squeezed out of -my body, by a convulsive jerk on the part of my executioner, who had -encircled me with his two arms. I was then laid down again, and a small -mirror being handed me, was suffered to invest myself once more in my -own clothes, from which I must have been absent more than two hours. - -The price of the Arab bath varies considerably, the more so, that each -individual operator expects a fee, a practice which sometimes causes a -deal of trouble and confusion. I paid generally ten piastres, (about -two shillings,) to the door-keeper for distribution, and with this sum -I found them abundantly satisfied. A Frank, however, is expected to pay -better than a native, who would never think of giving more than three -or four piastres. - -At Cairo, I staid nearly a fortnight, making some very agreeable -acquaintances, for Raven’s little office was a snuggery which every -Englishman in the place considered he had a right to visit at least -once in the day; and as a copy of “Galignani,” arrived three times -a month, with an occasional “Times” or “Chronicle” addressed to -myself, the divan under the window was generally occupied by Dr. A., -or some magnate from the Consular Office, who would sit an hour to -chat over the latest news, and tap a bottle of Moline’s “pale India.” -One particular drawer in Raven’s desk was filled with a choice lot of -Manillas, to which all had access, and so thoroughly was this liberal -system of smoking appreciated, that a box of a thousand, generally -disappeared in the course of a fortnight, for some, not content with -the few they could consume in the room, made off with a bundle of ten -or a dozen, to kill the musquitoes in their own quarters. - -Raven’s office, though not more than fourteen feet by eight, contained -an incredible number of drawers, and it was rarely that he was asked -for anything, which he could not immediately produce from one or other -of these receptacles. Travellers very often leave things behind them, -in the hurry and confusion of packing, and thus it happened that a -heterogeneous collection of articles from all parts of the globe, fell -into the hands of Raven, who, if he failed to identify them, would -deposit them carefully away, in the hope that some day or other, the -owner might return and claim his property. It more often happened, -however, that these stray properties were never afterwards inquired -for, and many is the goodly cloak and well-stuffed carpet-bag, with -now and then a watch or a snuff-box, which has thus found a protector. - -Dr. A., the only English physician in Cairo, (and he by the way is an -American,) to whom I have before alluded, lives in a quiet part of the -city, in a large and straggling, but commodious house, fitted up in -the Oriental style. The doctor has considerable practice amongst the -townsfolk and Frank residents, who are pretty sure to call him in on -any emergency; but I fancy, that one passing windfall, in the shape of -an English traveller, or an invalid officer on leave from India, suits -the book of the worthy _Hakeem_, better than a whole hospital of sick -Mahometans. - -When not occupied by his Esculapian duties, the doctor devotes a part -of his time to the formation of a cabinet of Egyptian antiquities, -and he is so well known to the Arabs as a collector of rarities, that -relics of all descriptions find their way to him, the bearer being -generally rewarded according to the outward appearance of the article, -by a sum often strangely disproportionate to its real value. Among -other objects of great interest, is a ring of solid virgin gold of -great weight, which from its hieroglyph, is supposed to have belonged -to one of the Pharaohs. By this, the doctor deservedly sets great -store, and has repeatedly refused to part with it, although a very high -price has been offered. Mummy ornaments of all descriptions, with holy -beetles and scaribei, form a prominent portion of the collection, which -is visited by most travellers as one of the sights of Cairo. - -During my first sojourn in the capital, I was naturally anxious to -get to the Pyramids, and satisfy the burning curiosity I had always -felt to see these extraordinary monuments. I was dissuaded, however, -from paying them an immediate visit, by a promise on the part of Mr. -Raven, to get up and personally conduct an expedition to explore them -at leisure, and as he had assisted Colonel Vyse in opening those of -Ghizeh, which had been partially explored by Belzoni, and then once -more closed, I was the more ready to submit to this arrangement and -profit by his experience. The rising of the Nile too, which was now -rapidly filling, was an obstacle, inasmuch as the distance from Cairo -to the first Pyramids is but five miles, by the ordinary route when the -water is off the plain, whilst at the time of the inundation, it is -twenty miles or more, and the road rendered difficult and dangerous. - -I therefore contented myself with visiting such objects of interest in -Cairo and its immediate neighbourhood, as were within the compass of a -walk, as the mad-house, and citadel, and the royal gardens of Shoubra -and Rhoda, &c. - -In these little excursions, I was accompanied by a gentleman named -Bell, to whom I was introduced by Dr. A., at whose house he was a -visitor. He had but just returned from a long journey into Abyssinia -and the Galla country, where he had met with much hardship and -adventure. It happened that a certain Colonel Ashton, who had ventured -into that uncivilized part of the world, had died, as was asserted, -of brain-fever, but his relatives, not satisfied with this account -of the unfortunate gentleman’s death, had begged Dr. A. to send off -some trustworthy person to ascertain the real state of the case. Bell, -who, at that moment happened to have nothing particular to do, and -found time hanging heavily upon his hands, volunteered his services, -which were forthwith accepted. Taking with him a sufficient escort, he -disembarked at Missouah, and penetrated as far southward as the spot -where the Colonel died, finding the account, in the main, perfectly -correct, and satisfying his relatives that he had not met with a -violent death. Some of Bell’s adventures were curious and amusing, and -it is matter of considerable regret to me, that I have not preserved -a more complete record of his perils and escapes. By one chief he -was detained as a sort of prisoner, and was not allowed to proceed -on his journey until he contrived to purchase his liberty by some -well-displayed feats of arms, which completely won over the heart of -the old king. On one occasion, he was called upon to _play_ (!) a -tilting match with his majesty, who, doubtless proposed to himself -great sport in knocking Bell off his horse, and maybe sending a long -spear through his body. My countryman, who by the way, was a powerful -athletic fellow of six feet one or two, young and full of vigour, and -a perfect horseman, vaulted gaily into his saddle, and acting only -on the defensive, happily succeeded in parrying the strokes of his -adversary’s lance which glanced harmlessly off his shield, calmly -awaiting a favourable opportunity to take his turn at the opposing -target. This came sooner than he anticipated, for the chief, thrown -off his guard, probably by a false estimate of Bell’s skill in this -sort of tactics, slacking his attention for a moment, received a -well-directed lance in the very centre of his shield, which sent him -rolling on the grass, to his own infinite amusement, as well as that -of such of his liege subjects as witnessed the sport. The old chief, -was, in fact, so well pleased with the courage and address displayed -by Bell, that he presented him with the white mule, from which he had -but a moment before so ignominiously parted company, and conferred a -sort of knighthood upon him into the bargain, by the gift of a splendid -gold-embossed shield, ornamented with the lion’s tail, which is one of -the insignia of royalty. - -From this moment, our friend stood high in the favour of the Court, -and attended the king on several excursions against a neighbouring -tribe, with whom he was then at war. On one of these occasions, Bell -was severely wounded by a lance through his hip, but was carefully -nursed by the chief’s family, who, although very loth to part with -him, suffered him at length to continue his journey, loading him with -provisions and presents, and increasing the number of his escort. -Farther south, he was attacked by robbers, who plundered him of -everything save his arms, and left him for dead upon the ground, with a -lance through his head, which entering the nose, came out at the back -of the neck, and was eventually withdrawn without doing much injury.[11] - -Having accomplished the object of his mission, Bell returned to Cairo, -where it was that I fell in with him very shortly afterwards. A few -months subsequently, he again set out for Abyssinia in company with -two other gentlemen, with the intention of reaching the source of -the White Nile, by which name the main stream is distinguished. It -was a totally different branch which Bruce traced to its rise, and -the true position of the sources of the Nile still appears to be -unauthenticated. It remains to be seen what success has attended their -efforts. - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[10] “Good, good.” - -[11] These facts I give to the reader as I had them from Bell, who -subsequently suffered acutely from the wounds in his head. - - - - -CHAPTER IX. - - THE NILE BOAT--VOYAGE DOWN THE RIVER--DEFENSIVE PREPARATIONS--SUDDEN - SQUALL--NARROW ESCAPE--ALEXANDRIA--RIVAL HOTELS--LESSONS IN - DONKEYSHIP--DOMESTIC COOKERY--THE “GREAT LIVERPOOL”--PHYSIOLOGY OF THE - SEIS. - - -At the end of the month I accompanied Mr. Raven to Alexandria in one of -his Nile sailing-boats, which are light and commodious little vessels, -drawing but two or three feet of water, and especially adapted for the -voyage into upper Egypt, to which purpose indeed they are principally -applied. Having sunk it under water for a day or two, and cleansed -it as much as possible of fleas and cockroaches, we shipped a goodly -cafass of provisions, and taking with us an Arab cook, embarked at -nightfall. The wind was unfortunately against us, obliging our crew -to use their oars, and very much retarding our progress. Our boat, -which was somewhat of a hobby of Raven’s, was very completely fitted -with every possible convenience, and had two compact little cabins -under the poop-deck, just long enough for a person to lie down in, one -being furnished with bed-places. In the middle of the forward cabin, -was a sort of tuck-up table, on which our supper was now laid out -by our swarthy factotum, who had for some little time been tickling -our appetites with the grateful odours of certain savoury ragoûts, -concocted over a charcoal fire ’midships. Over our heads, suspended -from the roof, swung a monstrous stable-lantern, shedding a dim yellow -light, just sufficient to show us the way to our mouths, for to read -or talk were equally impossible, owing to the unceasing song of the -Arab boatmen, who accompany themselves as they row, with a rude melody, -by no means grateful to English ears. All we could do, was to recline -at our ease, and puff away at our chibouques, until the heavy dew, -which wetted everything, as effectually as if we had been exposed to a -drizzling rain, drove us to our couches. - -I awoke several times during the night, and emerging from the cabin, -found every one but myself fast asleep, the vessel gliding noiselessly -down the stream. Even the head of the old Reis, who was perched upon -the roof of the cabin, had dropped down upon his chest, and saving the -ripple of the water under our bows, and the measured snore of some of -our party, no sound was to be heard, and we moved imperceptibly onwards -in perfect stillness. I had no heart to arouse any of the poor tired -Arabs from their stolen slumbers, the more especially, as I knew the -danger of running aground to be but slight; so once more seeking my -hard bed, and covering myself completely in my cloak, I bid defiance -to musquitoes and cockroaches, and was soon deep in pleasant dreams of -home. - -The two next days were passed in our boat, the monotony of the voyage -being varied by occasional runs on shore, when we moored at some -village or other, to take in a fresh supply of milk or vegetables. At -other times, where the high banks afforded good walking, we indulged in -a little shooting, for doves and small birds were very plentiful, and -afforded excellent eating. As the third night closed in, a light breeze -sprung up, which aided us considerably in our progress, and inspired -our tired crew with fresh energy. - -As we made our preparations for turning in, I remarked that Raven -drew from his pocket a huge knife, which, after a careful inspection, -he deposited with great gravity under his pillow, though whether -as a precaution against intrusion, or any act of foul play on the -part of our boatmen, I did not inquire, merely viewing such unwonted -preparation with considerable curiosity. - -I had not been long asleep, when I found myself suddenly rolled from -my sofa on to the floor, our stable-lantern and dining-table bearing -me company; and on opening my eyes, I could just catch a glimpse of -Raven escaping from the door-way with his big knife, whilst the violent -vociferations of the Arabs on deck, mingled with a confused rushing -sound of both wind and water, and the alarming lurch of the vessel, -left me in some doubt as to whether I was murdered or drowning. A -moment more and tranquillity was restored; the boat righted, and I -found my legs. Emerging from the cabin, I learnt that a sudden puff of -wind had caught our huge lateen sail, which, in true Arab fashion, had -been made fast to a ring in the deck, whilst the lazy sailor, who ought -to have held it, was enjoying a comfortable nap. Had it not been for -the promptitude displayed by Raven, who had severed the rope with the -trusty knife from under his pillow, it is more than probable that _he_ -would have got a sound ducking, and _I_ have served as a _bonne bouche_ -for some stray crocodile; for the Nile boatmen, who are amphibious, -and look upon an unexpected dip rather as a treat than otherwise, have -the unpleasant habit of extending assistance only to those in supreme -authority. Thus, while they would have rescued Mr. Raven, I might have -bubbled away my last breath in the cabin, or have floated down the -stream, entirely unheeded and uncared for. - -Providentially, however, we were saved from capsizing, and having -bestowed two or three hearty kicks on the man who had caused the -sudden alarm, we retired again to our couches, and reached Atféh about -daybreak, without farther mishap. - -Half-an-hour was passed here in preparing one of the iron track-boats -to convey us down the Canal to Alexandria, where we arrived about three -in the afternoon, and just in time for me to put off in a little boat -to meet one of the French steamers, which was visible in the offing. -Furner and I had a sharp race with a rival boat from Colomb’s Hotel, -and as the French captain suffered their agent to come on board, whilst -he politely saluted us with a copious sprinkling of warm water, it -was some satisfaction to remark that there was not even one solitary -passenger for either of us. There is considerable jealousy between the -proprietors of the “Rey” and “Colomb,” by which names the two principal -hotels are distinguished, and we hear that the opposing party is about -to start some canal-boats, and a couple of desert carriages, at a lower -rate of transit. This is doubtless all very fair, and as competition -generally benefits the public, we shall watch with interest the -progress of our rivals. - -Mr. Raven quitted us again the next day to return to Cairo, taking with -him Mrs. Hill and her little daughter, the widow and child of his late -partner, who had been sojourning some time in Alexandria. We drove -down to Moharrem Bey in one of Rey’s carriages, and the evening being -very dark, we had much difficulty in picking our way through the ruins -which mark the site of the ancient city, and ran many chances of an -upset in one or other of the deep holes which skirt the track. Raven -gave me instructions, upon this occasion, to look after and see to the -safe conduct of the Marquis of ----, the newly appointed Governor of -Madras, who is expected by the next steamer from England, and enjoined -me to pay particular attention to the comfort of his lordship during -the voyage to Cairo, and to place at his disposal the whole of one -of our track-boats, that he may be delayed as little as possible. -Having received my orders, I returned to the Okella with the agreeable -prospect before me of a few days quiet, prior to the arrival of the -next mail. - -I shall spare the reader a detail of my every-day life at Alexandria, -for my time when not taken up by office-duties, or the study of Arabic, -in which I was now making some progress, was chiefly occupied in -strolling through the bazaars, or in extended rambles with Furner on -donkey-back, in search of the picturesque. Our rides were frequently -productive of much amusement, for Furner excelled in donkeyship, riding -at full gallop à la Franconi, or sitting with his face to the tail, in -order to obtain a better command of his animal’s flank. Numerous also, -were the tumbles we got, but as we never made use of our stirrups, we -invariably pitched upon our feet, and by this very simple precaution, -escaped the bruises which fall to the lot of such as place too much -confidence in these little animals. - -We were frequently accompanied in our rambles by our fair friend from -Beyrout, who had shewn her appreciation of Raven’s offer of house-room -for a few days, by permanently hanging up her cap in our hall, where -she makes herself extremely useful in superintending our household -affairs. Were she anything of a cook, it is probable that our own -particular “_chef_” would take umbrage at her interference, but she -is guiltless of even the most superficial knowledge of the art, and -it was with much difficulty that I initiated her into the mystery of -making an apple-pie. It is true that the first attempt on my part was -any thing but calculated to impress her with a very exalted idea of -my qualifications, but then I had so many difficulties to contend -with. In the first place, I do not suppose that all Egypt could have -furnished a pie-dish, for which I was compelled to substitute an -Italian wash-hand basin. One of our tables served as a dough-board, -and an empty wine-bottle for a rolling-pin, and having cut and cored -my apples, I covered the whole over with what I thought an excellent -paste, and sent it to a neighbouring oven, reserving myself during the -first part of our dinner for the full enjoyment of the anticipated -luxury. It came in due course, but somehow or other resisted all our -efforts to get at the inside of it. Our knives made no impression -whatever on the crust, which was of adamantine quality, totally -shaming the old proverb about promises and pie-crusts, and after -various ineffectual schemes, we found our only way was to turn it -bottom upwards, and carefully break away the dish, revenging ourselves -upon the apples, which were excellent. Succeeding attempts proved -more satisfactory, and we became eventually rather famous for our -productions in this branch of cookery. - -On the 18th of the month, the “Great Liverpool” arrived at Alexandria, -bringing the expected Marquis of ----, and about forty other -passengers. We got away about three in the afternoon, reaching Atféh at -midnight, but the quantity of luggage was so enormous, that it took -us upwards of three hours to shift it on board the “Cairo” steamer, -and two hours more would very likely have been occupied, but for the -assistance of a French gentleman named Cler, connected in some way -with the Company, who had accompanied us thus far. We did at last turn -our backs upon Atféh, and after a brief stoppage at Cairo, arrived at -Suez just in time to catch the “Berenice” steamer, although some of -our party, who stuck fast in the sand, between Nos. 2 and 3 Station, -had a hard push for it: these were the Governor of Goa and his suite, -four gentlemen in one carriage, who were compelled to vary the monotony -of their journey by a ride of sixteen miles on the bare backs of the -horses, which brought them on to No. 4 in a deplorable condition. It -was some consolation to them to find a good meal in readiness, for -having seen their mishap, I had ridden quickly forward, in order to -dispatch an empty carriage to bring them on, a procedure, now rendered -useless by their appearance. So anxious were they about catching the -steamer, that I could with difficulty persuade them to sit down while -they swallowed their hot stew. - -On reaching Suez, I went on board the “Berenice,” with Mr. Hill, who, -having personally driven the Marquis of ---- across the desert, -obtained a flattering testimonial as to care and attention during -the journey, which had in fact been made in little more than twelve -hours, by those in the first three carriages. At the hotel, I met with -a Captain J----, an officer on sick leave, from India, who bore me -company on my return to Cairo; and as time was no particular object -to either of us, we spent two days and nights on the way, changing -horses only once. Our “_Seis_,” or running footman, kept up with us the -whole weary eighty-four miles, relieving himself only by occasionally -hanging on behind, and refusing our offer of a seat inside with stoical -indifference. He, poor fellow, like the rest of his class, was a mere -skeleton, his flesh being wasted away by undue perspirations, and a -lack of such food as is essential to keep up the stamina during such -continued exercise. Each set of horses, or team, has its attendant -“_Seis_,” who, whilst the animals are resting, snatches a brief sleep, -and swallows his unpretending meal of bread and water, with perhaps a -relish in the shape of an onion, or a pull at the _nargileh_ of the old -_bawaub_, or door-keeper. As it sometimes happens that the same team -of horses has to perform two or three stages, the poor “Seis” comes in -for a double duty, which is, nevertheless, unhesitatingly accomplished, -and even entered upon with joyful alacrity, should the prospect be -seasoned with the promise of a trifle of _bucksheesh_ on the part of -any of the travellers. I have known them to convey a letter or message -from Cairo to Suez with incredible speed, running all the way, and -carrying with them in the bosom of their blue cotton shirt, just as -much bread as would serve to sustain them on the journey. - - - - -CHAPTER X. - - CAIRO--THE TURKISH BAZAAR--TEST OF A SWORD-BLADE--THE “LITTLE - NILE”--RECOLLECTIONS OF THE PLAGUE--THE EGLINTOUN TENTS--PROCEEDINGS - IN THE “GREAT SQUARE”--ASTONISHMENT OF THE PASHA--A MAHOMEDAN - DINNER-PARTY--NOVEL DISHES--A JEWISH WEDDING--IMPERTINENT - CURIOSITY--THE BRIDE’S DOWER--A CUNNING HEBREW. - - -On arriving at Cairo, I refreshed myself with a bath, and accompanied -Captain J---- to see my friend Bell, who was still located at the house -of Dr. A. We found him dressed in a loose silken garment, squatted -cross-legged on a low divan, whilst he alternately puffed at a large -sheesheh of the doctor’s, and sipped his morning cup of coffee. Having -finished his toilet, which the addition of a pair of slippers rendered -complete, we took a long stroll through the Turkish Bazaar, which is -one of the chief attractions of Cairo, where jewels and gems of all -kinds, with golden stuffs and embroideries, and the varied productions -of Eastern ingenuity are displayed before the wondering gaze of the -stranger. The more precious goods are enclosed in glass cases on -either side of the narrow file of shops, and behind these is seated -the smiling merchant, who invites attention to his costly wares, or, -should you be personally known to him, points to a vacant cushion, -and replenishes your pipe with _gebelee_. We had a long chat in the -sanctum of one of these gentlemen, with whom Bell appeared on terms -of intimacy, and very civil and agreeable he was, explaining to us, -through the medium of our friend, the uses of various little objects -of luxury connected with the hareem and the domestic habits of the -Mooslim, which we might otherwise have had difficulty in ascertaining. - -My own object in visiting the Bazaar, was to effect the purchase of a -sword or scymitar, in order to complete my _costume du pays_, but as -I found that those exposed for sale in the Turkish quarter were of a -better quality than I needed, and of a price far beyond what I intended -to give, we repaired to another portion of the Bazaar, where I could -select from among some thousands of all kinds and qualities. As the -weapon was to be used as an ornament only, and would have answered -my purpose equally well, had the blade been firmly screwed to the -scabbard, or altogether wanting, I selected an undeniable “Brummagem,” -with a tastily ornamented horn handle, and goodly external appearance. -For the silken cord and tassels which form the appendages, I had -to walk to an entirely different quarter, where such articles are -exclusively manufactured, and after a due proportion of bargaining, -I succeeded in completing my purchase. On returning to the hotel, -I submitted my weapon to the judgment of Raven and Dr. A----, who -resolved to test its value by actual experiment. A sword-blade is -considered to be of good quality, when it will sever a nail at one -blow. Placing, therefore, a full-sized tenpenny on a wooden door-sill, -Dr. A., who acted as _Scharfrichter_, took a deliberate aim, and let -fly. The nail vanished, and I was about to pronounce my blade a genuine -“Damascus,” when the doctor, lowering its point, coolly requested me -to withdraw the nail, which was fairly notched therein, and was found -unmarked by the blow. I then dared the doctor to a similar experiment -with his own sword, which was unhesitatingly agreed to and tried, but -with a very different result, the nail being severed; but as there is -a knack in directing the blow, so as to fall at a particular angle, I -doubt if he would have allowed me to perform his part in the ordeal. - -As Captain J---- was anxious to be off to Alexandria, I ordered a -_cafass_ of provisions to be sent down to Boulac, and one of our best -boats to be got in readiness. We set sail with a fair wind, and a -tolerably high Nile, at seven in the evening, and were one day and two -nights in reaching Atféh. I much regretted the loss of my travelling -companion, whose society had proved most agreeable, although his health -was so impaired, that he appeared to move with difficulty. I lost sight -of him on reaching Alexandria, and imagine that he joined some one in -an extended tour into Upper Egypt. - -On making my appearance in the morning at the “Agency Office,” I was -introduced by Furner to a Captain Proudfoot, who had just arrived in a -small steam-vessel called the “Little Nile,” recently purchased by Mr. -Waghorn, for the service between Cairo and Atféh. I was astonished, -when I went on board, that so frail a cockle-shell could ever have -lived in a rolling sea, like that of the Bay of Biscay. She is of iron, -flat-bottomed, and used to ply on the Thames, above bridge, and it -could scarcely have been any common inducement that tempted Captain -Proudfoot and his little crew, to undertake so perilous a voyage. Off -Cape Finisterre they encountered a severe storm, which lifted the very -boilers from their fastenings, and drove her on shore almost a wreck, -but they managed to repair her in such a way, that they reached Malta -in safety, and there patched her up more effectually. Mr. Raven has -now put her into the hands of one of the Pasha’s engineers, who is -altering her to suit the nature of the Nile service, and when complete, -she will be the fastest and most jaunty of the river steamers. - -In the beginning of September, Mr. Raven paid us a visit, in order -to see what progress had been made, and to carry out some ideas of -his own, with respect to the interior arrangements of the new vessel. -Finding that he intended to send back to England her binnacle and -compasses, I remarked, that he might find them useful in the event -of plague breaking out, as he could then make a run for one of the -islands in the Archipelago, and so avoid a tedious imprisonment. The -idea seemed to strike him as feasible, the more so, that he remembered -being shut up for six months in a house at Cairo, without once being -permitted to cross the threshold, the doors being sealed, and a -watchman constantly on the look-out. Provisions were drawn up in -baskets, and paid for by money let down in a bucket of water. These -precautions were rendered necessary, by the critical state of one of -the household, who was attacked with plague, but eventually recovered. -Poor Raven aired himself on the house-top, and almost got by heart -every book in the place, until the seals were knocked off, and he was -suffered to escape; but, as may well be imagined, the remembrance -of his captivity, and its horrors, is not easily to be effaced, and -he will scarcely suffer himself to be entrapped a second time. The -compasses were, therefore, safely deposited in our store, and I got -Captain Proudfoot to explain to me the arrangement of the magnets, with -which a sea-going iron boat is always furnished, so that I might be -able to replace them, in the event of their being wanted. - -Some person having mentioned to the Pasha, that some curious tents -belonging to Mr. Waghorn, were lying in the custom-house, we have -received intimation of a vice-royal wish to see some of them erected. -It seems that the tents in question, formed part of those put up -at Eglintoun Castle, on the occasion of the famed tournament, and -that they were afterwards purchased by Mr. Waghorn, to serve as -sheltering-places on the desert, between the Stations. Mr. Raven -accordingly gave directions that the cases should be transported to -the far end of the square, where a fit spot, near the Greek Consulate, -was selected, Furner and I being deputed to unpack and overhaul them. -We soon found this to be no easy task, as they appeared to have been -huddled up together, without the slightest regard to arrangement; and -although we possessed an invoice, which enabled us in a measure to -identify them, we could only succeed in finding the component parts of -one out of the whole half-dozen. - -We commenced our operations, by laying down the poles, and digging -a couple of deep holes to plant them in, but on attaching the roofs -of the tent thereto, and raising them into perpendicular position, -our edifice bore the appearance of two gigantic green umbrellas, and -the sides, when rigged up, failed to approach the ground by seven or -eight feet. We had therefore to shorten the poles, and erect a sort of -scaffolding, in which latter operation, we were assisted by the crew -of the “Little Nile,” but all our efforts to produce anything like a -tent were unavailing. Our sailors too, soon discovered that pitching -tents was very dry work, and struck for a supply of beer, which we -were but too glad to furnish; so availing ourselves of the agreeable -shelter afforded by the thick tarpaulin, we converted our marquee into -a beer-shop, very much to the astonishment of Mehemet Ali, who, calling -upon us as he took his usual afternoon airing, found half-a-dozen jolly -tars smoking their clay pipes, and discussing bottled beer in the -quondam shrine of the Queen of Beauty.[12] - -We could not induce the Pasha to cross the threshold and inspect our -handiwork, although some of his suite had the curiosity to take a peep -at the interior. His Highness seemed fully satisfied with this one -visit, as he never again honoured us with a call, and the tent was soon -after taken down, and reconsigned with its fellows to the custom-house, -where I think it not unlikely that they still remain. - -A few days after this, I was invited with Furner and our Greek friend -L----, to an entertainment at the house of a Mahomedan acquaintance, -who wished us to partake of a dinner served in the Eastern way. On -reaching his dwelling, situated in the most agreeable portion of the -Arab quarter, or old town, we were ushered up some outside stairs, -into a long room on the first floor, which was tastefully carpeted -and fitted with low divans. As we entered at one door, there was a -great rustling of silks and shuffling of feet through another at the -far extremity, which we attributed to the rapid escape of a portion -of our friend’s hareem, who had been taking a sly peep at us from a -window above, as we stood talking in the court-yard. Placed on the -carpet were half-a-dozen little octagonal tables of coloured reeds, -about eighteen inches high, and upon these, as soon as we had squatted -ourselves down, were deposited as many dishes of pewter, of enormous -size, filled with a great variety of meats and poultry, baked, stewed, -and roasted, from among which a whole kid and a gigantic turkey, -greeted us conspicuously. Our host apologized to us for having the -whole of the first course placed upon the table at once, as such is not -customary, but he felt more satisfied that we should “see our dinner,” -and thus partake of what pleased us best. It was impossible for us to -make any objection to so excellent an arrangement, so, having carefully -cleansed, or rather moistened our finger-ends with rose-water, we fell -to without ceremony. In deference, however, to our European habits, -knives and forks were placed within our reach, and I soon succeeded -in making a hole in the kid, which was elaborately stuffed with -raisins and pistachio nuts. It would be useless for me to attempt an -enumeration of all the dishes, of which indeed I have but an imperfect -recollection: I had already dined, when another course was brought in, -consisting of sweets and vegetables, and a large rice-pudding, in a red -sea of damson-juice; love-apples and pumpkins, elegantly _farçies_, -and fruits both stewed and dried, completed our repast; and as it is -said, that good eating requires good drinking, there was no lack of -excellent wine. Pipes and coffee followed as a matter of course, and -we were afterwards favoured with an instrumental performance by the -Pasha’s private band, from which infliction, we made as speedy an -escape as possible, although our host would not allow us to depart, -until the whole five were put completely “hors de combat,” by Furner’s -timely administration of brandy-and-water, alluded to in a former -chapter. - -Quitting our friend’s house, and gaining the more frequented portion -of the city, we were astonished by the unusual appearance of an -enormous crowd of persons of both sexes, and the still more uncommon -sound of military music. Upon inquiry, we learned that the hubbub was -caused by a long bridal procession, in celebration of the “_noces_” -of a Jew and a Levantine girl, and being anxious to see all we could, -Furner and I joined in with the rest. The band, composed of amateurs, -led the way, followed by the bride and her attendants, with a “posse -comitatus” from all quarters. We walked I suppose, about half-a-mile, -accompanied by ambulating pots of fire, halting at every fifth or sixth -house to perform a “serenata.” At length we reached the dwelling of -the bridegroom, where the bride and her immediate suite were forthwith -admitted, and I, having in vain looked round for my friend, was making -an effort to cross the threshold with the rest, when the door was -unceremoniously slammed in my face. - -The old “_bawaub_,” however, was not proof against a nine-piastre -piece, which is an infallible open-sesame, and having ascended the -flight of stone-steps, which led to the upper story, I found myself in -a large room, in presence of some fifty or more persons of all ages, -and, to judge by their costume, from every part of the Mediterranean. -I soon discovered that I was the only Englishman in the company, and -with one or two exceptions, the only individual in a Frank dress, and -my casual glance round the room failing to reveal one single face that -was known to me, I began to feel in rather an awkward situation. It -was too late to retreat, as I had been already noticed, and concluding -that I should best avoid an appearance of singularity, by doing as the -rest, I made a profound salutation to the husband, who escorted me to -a divan at the upper end of the apartment, and in a manner the most -obsequious, motioned me to a seat, and remained near me until I was -served with sherbet and a pipe. I was at a loss to assign a cause for -so much courtesy towards a pork-eating unbeliever, though the reason -was shortly afterwards, rendered sufficiently obvious. - -At midnight there was a great commotion at the other end of the room: -the bride was introduced, and placed on a chair in the middle of the -floor, covered with a very thin veil of pink gauze, and resplendent -with jewels. All her attendants were more or less shrouded in veils, -most of them weighed down with rows of gold twenty-piastre pieces, by -way of fringe. The bride appeared, as well as I was able to judge, -very beautiful, and was in a charming state of confusion, every now -and then glancing stealthily at her husband, whom she now saw, in all -probability, for the first time. No sooner were the company gathered -round the trembling girl, than two of the attendants held up the -corners of her apron, to receive the contributions of such as were -inclined to make her a wedding present, and now my mind was enlightened -as to the unlooked for politeness of the Jew bridegroom. I turned -round, and encountered his gaze full upon me, but I felt myself a match -for him. Keeping close to the side of a jolly old Alexandrian, who was -fumbling in his girdle, and seizing the moment when he ostentatiously -let fall a shower of gold coin, I suddenly put forth my hand and -dropped my modest donation, in such a way as entirely to conceal its -amount from the eyes of the wily Hebrew. Judging from the quantity of -money collected, I should say that the newly-married couple made a very -good thing of it, as every one contributed, and nothing but gold was -offered. This ceremony over, the bride, half-fainting with fatigue and -terror, was led away to her apartments; and not wishing to encroach -farther on the hospitality of the Jew, I quitted the _fantasia_, and -returned home. - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[12] Our invoice led us to infer, that the tent in question, was that -which had been appropriated to Lady Seymour at the Eglintoun festival, -but from the style of its furniture, we were compelled to judge -differently, believing rather, that those purchased by Mr. Waghorn, -though very substantial and costly, could never have occupied a very -prominent place at the tournament. - - - - -CHAPTER XI. - - DWARKANAUTH TAGORE--STORM IN THE MAHMOUDIEH--A CHAPTER OF - ACCIDENTS--THE HALF-DROWNED CADET--ARAB KNAVERY--EFFECTS OF THE - MURRAIN--DONKEY-CHAIRS--A MIDNIGHT GALLOP--ALTERATION IN PROSPECT--MY - VAN AND ITS OCCUPANTS--AN ENRAGED PORTUGUESE--DISAGREEABLE - SITUATION--CHRISTMAS-EVE--MIDNIGHT INTERRUPTION--GOOSE AND CHAMPAGNE. - - -As it is not my intention to weary the reader with a description of -each of my several journeyings across the Isthmus, I shall allude only -to two more at the close of the year 184-, when my engagement with -Messrs. Waghorn came to an end. - -On one of these occasions, I had the pleasure of conducting the late -lamented Baboo, (Dwarkanauth Tagore,) who was returning to India with -a large retinue of friends and dependants, after a rather protracted -stay in England. On our way up the Mahmoudieh, the boat of which I -was in charge, encountered a very severe storm or tornado, the wind -setting with extraordinary violence right in our teeth, and bringing us -to a complete stand still. We lay-to whilst it lasted, for the space -of half-an-hour or so, and as we had no sail, or other impediment, -to offer any resistance, it passed over us without doing any injury; -but its effects, on resuming our course, were very apparent. A mile -farther up the Canal, we found a fine boat turned completely upside -down, and floating in a sea of sesamen and grain; hen-coops and dead -poultry, with half-emptied baskets of provisions, covered the surface -of the now still water, whilst the banks were strewed with fragments -of earthenware, and such valuables, as had been rescued from the -wreck. Two little children had perished, and the distracted mother -was wringing her hands and tearing her hair, in the intensity of her -sorrow. Farther on, a second boat lay swamped, with a portion of the -mast only out of water. A half-resuscitated English gentleman lay -gasping on the bank, having been rescued by one of the boatmen, who had -dived under to his assistance. A little brandy served completely to -restore him, and I then recognised a Mr. L----, who had been staying -for some time in Alexandria, having retired from India on a pension. -We took him a mile or two with us, and then transferred him to another -boat, deeply bewailing the loss of some valuable property, which the -ducking would render useless. - -This trip seemed destined to be replete with accident. A young cadet, -who had vainly sought below for some place wherein to stow himself -for the night, rolled himself up in two or three pea-jackets, and -lay down to sleep on the roof. A sudden lurch pitched him over into -sixteen feet of water, and had not some one who lay near him, heard -the splash, and raised an alarm, it would have been all over with him, -for the night was dark, and we were shooting rapidly a-head. The boat -was instantly stopped, and I then bade one of our Arabs to jump in -and rescue the unfortunate lad, promising him a liberal _bucksheesh_. -No, he would not go--if it had been in the day time, a dip would have -been of no consequence, but at night he was afraid. His companion was -equally inexorable, so, seeing that farther delay must prove fatal to -the cadet, I pushed the first in, when the other, fearing to lose a -share of the _bucksheesh_, followed of his own accord. Then succeeded -a few moments of very painful suspense, for they had a long way to -swim before reaching the spot where the accident occurred, and it was -probable that the cadet, encumbered as he was with three coats, had -sunk at once to the bottom. Great was our relief, therefore, when the -exclamations of the Arabs assured us that they had succeeded in landing -him, although it was not very easily that animation was restored. As -the young gentleman himself had little or nothing to offer in the shape -of reward, to those who had been the means of saving him, and seemed -indeed to regard his return to mother earth with perfect _nonchalance_, -a subscription was got up among the passengers, and one of the dripping -Arabs went round to collect the offerings, which were liberally -showered into his greasy _tarboosh_. About three or four pounds were -thus netted, which certainly ought, in equity, to have been divided -between the two boatmen, but the glitter of the precious metals proved -too strong a temptation for our worthy collector, who, as he emerged -from the cabin, cast one glance towards the poop, where his companion -was seated at the tiller, and then securing the cap with its contents, -between his teeth, glided noiselessly over the side of the boat, and -dived clear off with his booty. I afterwards learned, that he ran back -to Alexandria, and invested his treasure in the purchase of a snuff and -tobacco shop. - -As Dwarkanauth travelled with many retainers, and there was also the -usual average of Overland passengers, our party for Suez was rather a -large one, and the murrain having robbed us of upwards of a score of -horses during the last few weeks, there was but little accommodation -in the way of carriages. The invalids, and most of the ladies, got -seats, but the rest were obliged to have recourse to the donkey-chair -or saddle, whilst I selected a light dromedary, and trotted along with -the hindermost. We found it very difficult to keep together, and as the -darkness increased, were guided only by the harsh cries of the drivers, -as they urged on their unwilling animals. Every now and then some chair -would come down with a run, from the unequal motion of the two donkeys -attached to it, spilling the frightened occupant on to the hard sand, -or, what was still worse, a portion of the wretched harness would give -way, and cause the dropping of one corner of the sedan, which, if not -speedily rectified, is sufficient to tire the patience of the most -stoical. If the donkeys are well trained, no locomotion could be more -agreeable than that of these machines, but should the foremost animal -indulge in a canter, whilst his follower is not to be coaxed out of a -trot, the effect is perfectly indescribable. - -Our mishaps and delays were so frequent, that I at length grew weary of -perpetually dismounting from my lofty perch to render assistance, and -having fallen in with an interesting companion in the person of T----, -of Anti-slavery celebrity, we made up our minds to push on together, -the more especially as the Calcutta steamer was waiting for the Baboo -and his party. At No. 5 Station, we exchanged our tired _montures_, -for two of our van horses, which had been left by one of the foremost -of the carriages, and thus, with halters of twisted straw, and without -saddles, we galloped away through the darkness, very much to the -amusement and satisfaction of my fellow-traveller, who declared he had -seldom experienced anything so pleasurable in the way of a ride. It was -certainly a glorious night, and the road, saving where an occasional -stone or piece of rock, threatened to bring down our stumbling hacks, -safe and pleasant. I could not, however, enter very fully into the -feelings of my companion, for I was fearful that the steamer might have -put to sea before we could reach Suez, and I had yet a good deal to -receive from several of the passengers, who had quitted Cairo before I -had collected their monies. There was nothing either to be got at the -Stations in the way of provision, for the parties who preceded us, had -demolished everything eatable, saving a few potatoes and onions, which -we sliced up and made into soup. - -By the time we reached the hotel, every one was gone to the ship, -to which I also made the best of my way in a light skiff. They were -raising the anchor as I gained the deck, and I had but little time to -parley with such of the passengers as were on my books. With the Baboo -I had no trouble, as he immediately handed me a cheque on his bankers, -but with some of the others I was not so fortunate, for finding -themselves in security, and the vessel almost under weigh, they would -fain have taxed their bill. In this emergency, I pencilled a hasty note -to our agent at Bombay, which I dropped into the letter-box on board, -and having taken this precaution, quitted the ship. - -I was driven back alone to Cairo in two days, staying the intervening -night at No. 4 Station. As we approached No. 2, which is some twenty -miles from the city, we came upon Messrs. F---- and D----, of the -Peninsula and Oriental Company, making a trial of one of the new iron -carriages, constructed for desert use, by the eminent builder, Andrews -of Southampton. In respect of comfort and appearance, they are all that -can be desired, but the account which I received of their go-a-head -capabilities, was certainly not much in their favour. My two friends -had quitted Cairo two days before I fell in with them, with four horses -and a plentiful larder, and after countless stoppages, had at last come -to a complete standstill, in the middle of a vast field of loose sand, -in which the narrow iron wheels were effectually embedded, more than -half way up to the axle, and still deeper they would have gone, but -for the body of the carriage, which was resting on the sand. I found -the two travellers and their driver lolling at great ease, over a fine -ham and sundry chickens, and as they robbed my driver of two of his -horses, we levied a counter contribution on them, and made free with -their knives and forks. Soon after quitting them, they made another -advance of half-a-mile, and then, finding the loose sand too powerful -an opponent to their progress, turned their horses’ heads round, and -returned to Cairo. These new carriages do not appear (to me at least,) -adapted to the peculiarities of the desert, inasmuch as the wheels are -too small, and the tyres not nearly broad enough, whilst the cranked -axles are directly opposed to easy draught. I am not aware with whom -the design originated, but it would have been wiser in my opinion, to -have fairly established a fault in those already so long in use, than -to have risked the expense of building half-a-dozen new ones, on a -principle, which any one moderately experienced in Egyptian travelling, -would have immediately condemned. The carriages used by Mr. Waghorn, in -appearance, a cross between a bathing-machine and an errand-cart, are -really constructed on good sound principles, and cost Raven a great -amount of trouble and expense in their perfection. The wheels are six -feet in diameter, and will clear a tolerably large lump of rock or -stone, without breaking a spring; they are also so skilfully balanced, -that when loaded, there is but little weight thrown on the shaft horse, -and their motion is both easy and agreeable. - -Two or three days after my return to Cairo, and during some -conversation with Raven, I learnt that the affairs of the Company -by whom I was employed, were likely to undergo a change, and that -arrangements were about to be entered into, to dispose advantageously, -of the whole concern. I should scarcely have received this information -so soon, but for the kindness of Raven, who was anxious that I should -be on the look out for some other mode of employing myself, as in the -course of another month or two, the management would probably pass into -other hands, and I should then be at loose ends in a foreign land. -In the event of my wishing to remain in Egypt, he promised his best -influence in my behalf with his successors, though it was not likely -they would retain many English in their employ. - -Thanking him very cordially, I promised to think the matter over, and -proceeded once more to Alexandria, to meet the “Great Liverpool,” -and make my last official trip across the desert. She arrived on -the 29th of the month, and brought some thirty or more passengers, -among whom were the Imaum of Muscat, and to my great satisfaction, -my friend P----, with his amiable and accomplished wife, whom he was -transplanting from the bogs of Ireland, to cheer his solitude in Egypt. - -We reached Cairo without let or hindrance, but scarcely had we passed -the tombs of the Sheiks, on the verge of the desert, than our horses -began to _gib_, and I foresaw that a night of trouble was before us. -The van in which I rode, contained rather a mixed party, in the persons -of the Rev. Dr. T., a Frenchman, a Portuguese nobleman, and myself, -together with two or three bottles of _orgeât_ and _eau sucrèe_, and a -heavy carpet bag, the property of the Hidalgo. - -With considerable difficulty we got past No. 2 Station, between which -and No. 3, we came to a complete standstill, and no efforts on the part -of either the driver, _Seis_, or myself, could induce our poor horses -to move: they were completely done up, and as ours was the last van of -the six, there was no chance of assistance from any of our own people. -After waiting for about an hour, the doctor and the French gentleman -decided upon attempting to reach No. 4 Station on foot, which they -might easily accomplish, though being late at night, and quite dark, -it required some presence of mind. Fearful, however, that they might -wander from the track and get into difficulty, I dispatched the Seis -with them as a guide. - -The Portuguese declared he would stick by his carpet-bag which -contained all his valuable property, and we two, therefore, made what -service we could of the two seats of the van, and rolled up in our -cloaks, slept till near day-break; the Arab driver curling himself -up as close as possible to one of the horses which lay on the sand, -almost incapable of motion. At dawn we awoke and tried anew to get the -horses on, but with no better success than before, and at this fresh -disappointment, my companion’s slender stock of patience entirely -forsook him, and he showered upon me a volley of abuse in such -curiously broken English, that despite our unpleasant predicament, I -could not refrain from laughter. “I sal soot yous,” said he at length, -as quivering with rage, he unlocked his carpet-bag to put his threat -into execution; and I think it very possible that he would have let the -dawning day-light into me, had I not assured him, through the medium -of my equally broken Italian, that in putting me out of the way he -could gain nothing, and lose all chance of saving himself; that should -the Bedouins come down on him, they would be sure to appropriate his -carpet-bag, and perhaps carry him off as well. By degrees I managed -to convince him, that instead of blubbering like a child, it would be -more expedient to aid me in devising some means of locomotion, by which -we might reach the next Station. Making a bundle of all the cloaks -which had been left in the van, I slung them and the carpet-bag across -one of the leaders, flinging my prayer-carpet over the whole by way -of a saddle. My ferocious Portuguese was thus tolerably mounted, and -sending with him the Arab driver, on a second horse, to show him the -way, I bade him “good speed,” and particularly enjoined him not to omit -sending me some assistance on arriving at the Centre Station. This he -promised faithfully to do, although I afterwards found, he had abused -me like a pickpocket, on finding himself once more in safety. - -I was now left to the quiet enjoyment of the empty carriage, and a -bottle of the _eau sucrèe_, left behind by the Frenchman. Upon a -portion of the latter, and one or two limes which I had in my pocket, -I made a sort of breakfast, and was thinking of composing myself -to sleep, by way of shortening the weary hours which must elapse -before assistance could reach me, when I was startled by the sound of -voices. Looking out, I saw two Bedouins approaching, on dromedaries, -to whom, when they came up, I at once explained my unpleasant -position, soliciting their aid to set me once more a-going. There was, -fortunately at this time, a very good feeling existing between our -people and such of the Bedouin tribes as frequented this portion of the -desert, as it was to them we looked for the supply of camels to convey -the mails and baggage between Cairo and Suez, paying them according -to an established tariff, varying with the price of provision. I had, -therefore, no sooner explained to them who and what I was, than the -good fellows dismounted, and drawing from their saddle-bags a feed of -chopped straw, which they saturated with water, I very soon had the -satisfaction of seeing my two jaded horses on their legs again. To -myself they administered a few hearty whiffs of a _chibouque_ which -wonderfully animated me, and then, putting our shoulders to the wheel, -we succeeded in moving a turn or two ahead. Having fairly started -me,--my two friends, stoutly refusing any offer of remuneration,--gave -me a parting blessing, and sent me on my way rejoicing. - -I did not reach No. 4 Station until near two in the afternoon, when I -found the _Seis_ coming to the rescue with a pair of fresh horses. Dr. -T. and the Frenchman had arrived safely on foot, and had been taken on -in another van, whilst the Portuguese was sleeping off the fatigues of -his ride in one of the bedrooms above. I called him down to partake of -some refreshment, and at three o’clock, we again pursued our journey, -reaching Suez at midnight, and becoming on the way, the best friends -imaginable. - -Having some business of importance to transact for Mr. Raven, I had -no time to take any rest in Suez, and therefore, set off almost -immediately on my return to Cairo. It was Christmas eve, and the night -proved unusually cold, whilst I found it impossible to keep off the -wind, which blew steadily through the open cart, piercing the ample -folds of my _bernous_. On we jogged through the dark, the weary Arab -fast asleep on his driving seat, bobbing his head to the measured creak -of the springs; that, and the jingle of the harness, being the only -sounds which disturbed the silence of the desert. Warming my inner man -with a spoonful of brandy, I threw myself into the bottom of the cart, -and giving my slumbering jehu an apparently accidental poke in the ribs -to recall him to his duty, courted some short repose. We had, however, -reached a portion of the desert, which one would think ought more -properly to have belonged to Arabia _Petrea_, so covered is it with -large round stones. Every now and then a wheel would come in contact -with one of these, giving us a shock sufficient to drive the breath -out of us, and recalling me from pleasant dreams of roaring fires and -Christmas cheer, to a chilly sense of my uncomfortable position at the -bottom of the cart, with the wind whistling through every crevice. -Being however considerably fatigued, I again relapsed into an unquiet -slumber, which gradually subsided into a complete state of repose, as -we exchanged the stoney track for the fine hard sand. I slept long and -uninterruptedly, until I was suddenly aroused by a shock which had -well nigh thrown me out of the vehicle. Raising myself, I looked out -and missed my only companion, the driver. The shaft horse had fallen -over the body of a dead camel, and had brought the other down with -him, whilst poor Hassan had been pitched clean off his perch, and was -picking himself up with many lamentations. I scrambled out in front -as well as I could, to assist him in getting under weigh again, for -our contiguity to the carcass was anything but agreeable. Fortunately -nothing had been broken, and after a delay of ten minutes or so, we -were jogging on as before, although both of us were now thoroughly -awake. A good supper awaited us at No. 6 Station, and as I had to -perform half the journey with the same horses, I turned for a few hours -into bed. - -[Illustration: THE DEAD DROMEDARY.] - -Christmas-day broke as brightly and almost as frosty as in old England, -but where was I to look for the compliments of the season? Certainly -not from the old cook who brought me my coffee in the morning. _He_ -didn’t know the day of the month, nor the month of the year, nor his -own age, nor anything else, except that it wasn’t Rhamadān, nor _high -Nile_, the only two epochs _he_ had been taught to identify, so I -wished myself a merry Christmas and a happy new year, and all sorts of -things, and pre-pictured the odd sort of cheer I should find at No. -4 to make merry upon, when I should halt there for my dinner. I was -destined, however, to be agreeably disappointed, for on my arrival at -the outer gate, I was hailed with a shout of welcome by an old friend -from Alexandria, one T----, of the Peninsular Company. Leading me in -triumph to the kitchen, he pointed to a goose which was frizzing and -spitting at the end of a cord suspended from above, whilst a Maltese -cook was chopping onions at a side table. In honour of the day, we next -rescued from a cobwebby corner, a dusty bottle or two of Champagne, -and prevailed upon Mrs. S. to make us some pancakes, and thus provided, -we sat down to what we considered an excellent dinner, and although the -goose had been grubbing about in the sand only an hour before, and the -Champagne was all “Walker,” we pronounced them both faultless. - - - - -CHAPTER XII. - - INFLUX OF TRAVELLERS--PROVISION STORES--THE PRESERVED “ROUND”--NEW - YEAR’S-DAY--MELANCHOLY OPENING OF NEW YEAR--VISIT TO THE PYRAMIDS--OLD - SELIM--A MOONLIGHT WALK--THE SPHYNX AND GERMAN SAVANS--ASCENT OF - CHEOPS--THE INTERIOR OF THE PYRAMIDS--UNCEREMONIOUS INTRUDERS--TRIAL - OF SKILL--A CRACK SHOT. - - -I reached Cairo the following morning, and thus ended my engagement -with Messrs. Waghorn and Co. On resigning my office, I was gratified -with a flattering testimonial from Mr. Raven, and an invitation to -consider the hotel as my home, so long as I might incline to remain -in Egypt. Being as yet quite undetermined what to do, I accepted his -very kind offer, occasionally resuming my accustomed seat in the little -office, and rendering what assistance I could, in expediting the mails -and passengers. There was a good deal of business also, consequent -upon the almost daily arrival of parties bound on a visit to Upper -Egypt; and not only were all our own boats put in requisition, but -many more were hired for the excursion from Boulac and other places. -These latter, we were always compelled to sink for some days before -they were fit for the reception of any civilized beings, to drive out -the cockroaches and other vermin, with which they were infested; and -as the temporary owners of these little craft, were naturally desirous -of showing off to advantage, in the eyes of such of their countrymen -as they would fall in with during their voyage, they sometimes went -to considerable expense in having them newly decorated with gaudy -arabesques, and quaint patterns, in the brightest colours. - -Each boat sailed under a different flag, and a pattern card of such -flags as were already up the Nile, was hung in the long room of the -hotel, so that each succeeding adventurer might vary his device. For -some weeks, the inn appeared as if converted into a sort of wholesale -provision warehouse, such ransacking was there of stores and cellars, -in quest of the necessaries to furnish the travelling _cafass_ of each -party. Great was the draw upon the bottled-ale department, and Messrs. -Guiness and Bass, certainly owe a large debt of gratitude to old father -Nile, who has so wisely tempered his waters with a mild aperient -quality, as to place medicine-chests at a discount at the cataracts, -and force even the teetotal traveller to slake his thirst in beer. - -Preserved provisions of all sorts were dragged from the cob-webbed -recesses under the stairs, where they had lain for many a long -year, and the entrance hall was strewed with hermetic legs of pork, -giblet-soups, and stewed breasts of veal, with every thing else in the -culinary calendar. Among the red tin pots which contained these hidden -delicacies, I found one of unusual size, of which the “_etiquette_” -proclaimed the presence of a “round of beef.” Now, it was seven months -at least, since I had taken a cut at anything, at all resembling a -genuine “round,” and as this pot was the only one of its species, and -certainly had no business among the lesser fry, I carried it to Raven. -He had not, as it happened, ordered our dinner for that day, and it -was therefore settled _nem con_, that we should dine off the round as -soon as it was cooked, Dr. A---- being invited to join us, and share -the delicacy. With hammer and chisel, I proceeded to make a breach in -the well-soldered top, and drew blood in the shape of a jet of savoury -juice, which saluted my face and shirt-front. “There, there,” said -Raven, “don’t waste the liquor; call the cook, and let him transfer all -to the stew-pan, a quarter of an hour’s simmering will do.” We sat down -to table, and smacking our lips, awaited the arrival of Nasr, who made -his appearance just as the doctor had finished whetting his knife. -Never shall I forget the look of bewildered surprise depicted upon the -countenances of my two companions, as Moosah set down and uncovered -the dish. There was the “round” certainly, but alas! “_quantum mutatus -ab illo_:” a thing like a Norfolk biffin greeted our astonished gaze, -floating in a sea of mouldy gravy. Nasr hardly knew whether to regard -it as a joke, or some species of foreign delicacy, with which he was -previously unacquainted. As for ourselves, we waited until the cook -had prepared us some dish not quite so _recherché_, whilst we all -agreed, that although the “round of beef” might have been _potted_, it -certainly had not been very well _preserved_! - -[Illustration: THE “ROUND OF BEEF.”] - -New Year’s-day came in due course, but although Raven, on hospitable -thoughts intent, had gathered all his English friends around him, our -enjoyment was very much saddened by the alarming illness of Mrs. H----, -an agreeable young countrywoman, in whom we were all much interested. -With death, as it were, at the door, it was scarcely possible that the -guests assembled in the long room should indulge in any feeling of -hilarity, and thus, although the cheer was ample and excellent, and -there was abundance of everything calculated to promote conviviality, -our New Year’s dinner passed off in gloom and silence. As for myself, -I was suffering so acutely from an attack of rheumatism, that I was -glad to retire long before the rest, Bell, who was also on the sick -list, bearing me company. The death of our poor friend, occurred early -in the morning, and more suddenly than any of us had anticipated. I -spent many hours in the house of mourning, to assist in performing the -last melancholy duties. The body was consigned to the grave the same -afternoon, in a Greek place of burial, near to Old Cairo, the mourners -following in two of our desert carriages, drawn by eight white horses -at a full trot. The Rev. R---- L---- read the burial service, and -before dusk, the whole of the mournful ceremony was over, and we had -returned to our homes. Poor H---- felt his bereavement so severely, -that he could never be persuaded to return to his own deserted hearth; -and his house, which formed a part of the Company’s premises, was -afterwards fitted up for the accommodation of such travellers as could -not obtain room at the hotel. As such, a portion of it fell to my lot, -and I remained there until the period of my quitting Cairo. - -Being now, as it were, an idle man, I resolved upon making my -long-thought-of visit to the Pyramids, and had no sooner communicated -my intention to Furner, who was staying for a few days at the hotel, -than he volunteered to join me. Mr. Raven, for some reason or other -was unable to accompany us, but we had in his place an English -gentleman, who held a government appointment in Egypt. - -Mounted on the best donkeys we could select, and followed by a train -of attendant Arabs, loaded with the necessary provender, we quitted -the hotel late in the afternoon, and rushing at a hand gallop through -the narrow streets, and quaint-looking gardens of the suburb, reached, -in less than half an-hour, the banks of the Nile, at Fostât, or Old -Cairo. Those bound to the Pyramids of Ghizeh, usually cross just above -the Island of Rhoda, where the current, owing to the great breadth -of the river, is not so strong as to render navigation difficult. A -flat-bottomed boat conveyed us to the opposite shore, landing us, -donkeys and all, at the little village of Ghizeh. Here we laid in a -stock of fruit, such as limes, dates and bananas, and swelled our -cortége by the addition of two or three ragged-looking fellows, who -persisted in following us, to help us over the various canals and dykes -with which our path was intersected by the late inundation of the Nile. - -It was dark when we left the village, and gained the open -country beyond, and it required constant care on the part of our -self-constituted guides to prevent our donkeys from stumbling into -the wide cracks which stretched across our path. We had many dykes -to ford, our animals being easily persuaded to take to the water, -though we eventually came to a _bonâ fide_ canal, which at first sight -seemed to present an insurmountable obstacle to our further progress. -We all mechanically drew bridle on the high shelving bank, gazing -into the dark-looking stream below, with any thing but pleasurable -feelings, and here we made a forced halt, whilst a scout ran off to -ascertain if there was any other spot at which we could more easily -effect a crossing. Not finding any such, one of our guides stripped -himself and waded in, and it was some consolation to find, that at -the deepest part, the water barely covered his shoulders. Seeing that -there was no way of escaping a partial wetting, I divested myself of -my nether garments, which I rolled round my gun and carried in my -hand, and holding tight on by his top-knot, got safe across upon the -shoulders of the tallest Arab of our party, sending him back for my -companions. In this way we all reached the opposite bank with but -little inconvenience, the donkeys swimming over after us, but as our -saddles were soaked, and we ourselves somewhat chilled, we performed -the remainder of our journey on foot, reaching the tomb in the -neighbourhood of the Pyramids about ten o’clock, just as the moon was -rising. - -Old Selim had already retired for the night, but a shot fired from one -of our guns gave him notice of our approach, and as we came to the -bottom of the steps which lead to his hermitage, he was lighting up -for our reception. The rock upon which the chief Pyramid appears to be -based, crops out of the sand in the form of a gigantic step,[13] and in -its face are several caverns, partly excavated, I believe by Colonel -Vyse, which serve in the present day for the dwelling of one or two -Arabs, and have been rudely fitted up as resting places for travellers. - -Selecting the most commodious of these chambers, which, in addition to -a low stone divan round three of its sides, boasted also of a tortuous -hole in the roof by way of chimney, we got old Selim to light a fire of -dried sticks and charcoal, and spreading our mats upon the floor, were -quickly in enjoyment of an excellent supper, for which our nocturnal -ramble had secured us a hearty appetite. Cold fowls there were, and -pigeons galore, as well as piping hot potatoes, which we drew from out -the embers. Thanks to our fair purveyor at the hotel, our cafass was -abundantly furnished, and we found on inspection that there was no -need to be so chary of our stock of meat and brandy, as to refuse a -restorative to some of our dripping escort, who stood shivering at the -door of the cavern whilst we were taking our meal. - -Hitherto, neither Furner nor myself had seen the Pyramids, having been -prevented by the extreme darkness of the night. Now, however, the moon -had illumined the far-off Nile and the desert beneath us with a flood -of brilliant light, which tempted us from our chimney corner, and -ascending accordingly the last broken flight of steps leading to the -summit of the rock, old Cheops and his two satellites burst upon our -view. The angle nearest to us presented a tapering line of fantastic -shadows, as the broken masses of stone caught the bright moonlight, -the northern face of the Pyramid appearing from the contrast to be -thrown into darkness, looking cold and gloomy, whilst the shadow cast -by the enormous mass, undulated over the uneven sand in the foreground, -and was lost far away in the desert. Beyond, as if guardian of the -gigantic wonders around him, lay the Sphynx, crouched like some monster -watch-dog, and turning his back most contemptuously upon a large party -of German savans, who had pitched their tents within the very sweep of -his tail. These gentlemen, in their inordinate thirst after knowledge, -have grubbed holes in all directions, and with the exception of the -three Pyramids, have turned nearly every thing topsy-turvy. Even the -Sphynx has been partially undermined in the hunt after hieroglyph, and -a splendid specimen has been exposed which is expected to throw some -light upon the unknown tongue. At the time of our nocturnal visit to -their bivouac, the literati had retired to rest, but hearing voices, -a sentinel protruded his head from the tent and challenged us in -_Hoch-Deutsch_, a language about as familiar to most of our party, as -the hidden one of the Pharaohs. Managing, however, to prove to his -satisfaction, that we were neither enemies nor thieves, the head was -withdrawn, and we returned to our own sleeping-place. - -We were out before sunrise in the morning, and after the usual and -_now_ necessary cup of coffee, commenced the ascent of the Pyramid -of Cheops, the first and highest of the three, and the only one -whose summit is easily attainable. Yielding to a common error, I -resolutely resisted all offers of assistance on the part of the Arabs -who accompanied us, but I had not scaled more than half-a-dozen of -the lower steps, before I was glad to call three sturdy ruffians to -my aid, one at either hand, and the other pushing behind. In this -way we reached the half-way resting-place, which when viewed from the -ground, appears close to the top. Here we halted a minute or two to -take breath, and then again pushed upwards. The dexterity displayed -by my guides was really wonderful, and although, as I used but little -exertion myself, I must have taxed their assistance to the utmost, -they never made a false step, nor paused to deliberate where they -should plant their feet. Being early morning, the stones, which are -breast-high, were slippery with the dew, and many an awkward stumble -should I have made, but for the care of my faithful rear-guard, who -hoisted me from one course to another, and over the sharp angles of the -stones, with the greatest ease and good-will, putting out his knee or -back as a stepping-place, whenever a block of unusual size presented -itself. - -Anon we reached the summit, an area of rather more than thirty feet -square, and we now discovered that our toil had been thrown away, -in-so-far as the enjoyment of an extended view was concerned. A thick -mist obscured the distance, and left little to attract the eye, save -the course of the Nile, and the tracts of land which were still under -the influence of the inundation. These formed a silvery network, -lighted up by the rising sun, and assisted the eye in embracing the -enormous expanse of country commanded by our elevated position. Cairo -lay as it were, close at hand, although obscured beyond the power of -recognition by the misty vapours which rose from the river. On the -south, the site of old Memphis and the adjacent Pyramids of Sakhara -were distinctly visible. Whilst immediately beneath us, the two lesser -Pyramids of Ghizeh towered upwards from the plain, from amid a confused -jumble of tombs and ruins. - -The uneven surface of the summit is completely covered with names and -dates, each succeeding visitor deeming it necessary to leave some -record behind him. This custom, which obtains more among the vulgar of -our own nation, than with any other, is here adopted by travellers from -all corners of the earth, and the renowned _Mezzofanti_[14] himself, -would feel at a loss to identify some of the outlandish characters -which are cut in the crown of old Cheops. - -As we rested ourselves, water was brought to us by Fellah children, -who for the uncertain chance of obtaining a few _paras_, will make -the toilsome ascent of the Pyramid, in the wake of a party, laden -with their dripping _goolahs_. We found their offering sufficiently -well-timed, for the sun was now high above the horizon, and blazed -upon us with such right good will, that we were glad enough to commence -our descent. This is not to be accomplished without much caution, as -one unlucky slip might prove fatal, and therefore, the aid of the Arabs -is again called into requisition. As we neared the bottom we turned off -to the left, and reaching the opening which conducts to the interior of -the Pyramid, we lit our candles, and consigned ourselves to the care of -the guides. - -It is difficult, without reference to sectional views, to form any -clear idea of the construction of such of the interior as has been -explored, but there are few who have not studied with interest, and -must therefore remember, the description given by Belzoni, of his -remarkable discoveries. One after the other, and stooping down to avoid -the low roof, we threaded a passage of considerable extent, inclining -gradually downwards. This seemed as if cut out of the solid rock, -and presented a polished appearance, from the contact of innumerable -shoulders and elbows. The dust raised by our feet, and the heat and -smoke of the torches, annoyed us exceedingly, and nearly suffocated me, -who happened to be one of the hindermost. Before long, we reached a -more open space, where we could stand upright, and eventually gained -a chamber of large dimensions, which is supposed to be the very centre -of the Pyramid. It contains a huge uncovered sarcophagus, long since -rifled of its contents. The walls appeared perfectly black, coloured -probably by the accumulated smoke of torches. Over this are four other -chambers, access being only obtained to them by small steps of wood, -let in at one of the angles of the wall. As many of these appeared to -be wanting, whilst others were loose or broken, we retraced our steps -without venturing to explore these upper regions. - -On emerging again into daylight, we presented a ridiculous appearance: -the heat had been so great, that the perspiration literally ran off -us, streaking the soot that had been deposited upon our faces. Our -clothes, too, were covered with dust, so that our _ensemble_ partook -both of the miller and the sweep. Our guides now informed us that we -had by no means seen all, and that a well, and sundry subterranean -passages had still to be explored. I was already so nearly choked with -the lack of air and the bad odours, that I declined their kind offer to -bury me a second time, and left the honour to my companion, awaiting -his reappearance on the shady side of the Pyramid. His torch, however, -dropped before he had proceeded two hundred yards, and he and his -guide were compelled to grope their way out again, as well as they -could, without having seen anything. - -As we approached our resting-place of the preceding night, we became -aware, from the unwonted noise of many Arabs and donkeys, together with -an occasional hearty laugh, echoing from the cavern below, that some -arrival had taken place during our absence at the Pyramid. This proved -to be the case, and we found a party of our countrymen very coolly -commencing an attack upon the breakfast which had been prepared for -ourselves, by old Selim. Being in no mood to put up with any unwelcomed -interference, we ejected the new comers without ceremony, although -we afterwards relented in their favour, on discovering that by some -mistake, they had left Cairo almost unprovided. Hearing that two of -their party intended going on as far as the Pyramids of Sakhara, I -volunteered to bear them company, leaving my companions, to whom a two -nights’ absence would have been inconvenient, to return again to Cairo. - -Our breakfast over, we set to work to clean our guns, in readiness -for any stray sport we might fall in with by the way. To a comparison -of our various arms, succeeded the usual boast of their excellent -qualities, each of course thinking his own gun the best. This led to a -trial of skill, and a beer-bottle having been placed in a conspicuous -position on a point of rock, we blazed away for a considerable time, -without any visible effect, for as the shot was a long one, the bottle -was only to be broken by being struck exactly in the centre. Old -Selim had been silently watching us at our sport, and thinking that -he might possibly like to take his turn with the rest, I offered him -my carbine, a choice _Wesley Richards_. Pushing it from him with the -greatest contempt, he dived into one of the caverns, and produced -a curious-looking implement, eight feet long, like an enormous -pea-shooter, the barrel being bound to the stock in a dozen or more -places, with brass wire, and having a flint lock of most primitive -workmanship. The appearance of both Selim and his weapon, was so very -_outrè_ and ridiculous, that we could not suppress our laughter, and as -none of us could believe that such a tool would stand the shock of a -charge of powder, we instinctively got away as far as possible, when we -saw it deliberately poised in the act of taking aim. After an interval -of profound silence, came the click of the old lock, and a slight -flash, then another interval, and a sharp report, the bottle, to all -appearance, remained untouched, and in spite of the quiet, “fi fi,”[15] -of the old man, we were about to indulge in a second laugh at his -expense, when one of the donkey-boys brought it down from the rock, and -we found two clean round holes in the very centre of the widest part -just under the neck. Old Selim’s dexterity was rewarded with a full -flask of good powder, one of the most acceptable offerings we could -have made him. - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[13] One hundred and fifty feet above the level of the surrounding -desert. - -[14] The learned Romish Cardinal, remarkable for his knowledge of -languages, speaking and writing no less than twenty-one. - -[15] “It is, it is.” - - - - -CHAPTER XIII. - - THE VILLAGE OF SAKHARA--SHEIK’S HOUSE--THE BRICK - PYRAMIDS--MUMMIES--THE SACRED IBIS--RETURN TO CAIRO--AN AGREEABLE - BILLET--PREPARATION FOR A VOYAGE--DISAPPOINTMENT--A PARTING--THE - LAST JOURNEY ACROSS THE DESERT--A DILEMMA--BEDOUIN ARABS--NO. 4 - STATION--DEPARTURE FROM CAIRO--DINNER AT MR. L.’S--ALEXANDRIA. - - -Sakhara, within a short distance of the ruins of ancient Memphis, is -about fifteen miles beyond the Pyramids of Ghizeh, and as we had not -started until after mid-day, it was evening by the time we reached -the village. The only place of entertainment, if indeed it can be so -styled, is at the house of an aged Sheik, who accommodated us for a -trifling gratuity, with four walls and a ceiling. The only thing which -could pretend to be an article of furniture was a rough old table, -whose legs were stuck tight into the mud floor. Here we deposited our -cloaks and _liarfs_,[16] and then repaired to the house-top, where -the old Sheik was plucking the two freshly killed fowls which were to -serve for our supper. His daughter, a comely girl of fourteen, with -a pair of eyes that might almost have resuscitated a mummy, rendered -doubly attractive as they were, by a judicious application of _kohl_ at -the lids, concocted a mess of _mish-mish_, over a charcoal fire, and -seemed delighted at the avidity with which we devoured it, for our long -ride had produced a most enviable appetite. Our meal over, we smoked -and talked until one by one our Arab hosts had disappeared, and we -were left to the enjoyment of our mud divan. It was, however, long ere -sleep deigned to visit us. We were besieged by a legion of fleas and -musquitoes, whilst bats came wheeling in at the open windows, scraping -our faces as they skimmed over us. - -We were up with the daylight, and mounting our donkeys, trotted merrily -through the palm-groves on to the desert. The Pyramids of Sakhara stand -among a sea of ruins; the ground is cut up and excavated in every -direction, and the discovery of hitherto unopened tombs is of constant -occurrence. We passed one of these on our way to the chief Pyramid, -and as the old Arab who was grubbing his way in, was most anxious that -we should take a peep, we slid down the sand to the entrance, and -wriggled ourselves through on our backs, into a chamber about twelve -feet square, from which the sand had been removed to a depth of -four feet. Here we all lay in profound darkness, until our guide had -struck a light, and we could then perceive that the walls were covered -with hieroglyphs, and bi-coloured frescoes, bearing an appearance of -extreme freshness, the lapse of time having failed to diminish their -brilliancy. We gazed and wondered, but feeling that this was indeed the -pursuit of knowledge under difficulties, inasmuch as we all lay gasping -on our backs, half-buried in sand, and almost choked with smoke, we -made as hasty a retreat as the mode of egress would allow, bestowing -a few paras on the old Arab, and cheering him with the assurance that -he might eventually arrive at something valuable, if he should escape -burying himself alive in the attempt, a consummation which a trifling -sand-slip might at any time effect. - -The Pyramids of Sakhara differ from those of Ghizeh, both in shape, and -in the material of which they are composed. When viewed from a short -distance off, their appearance is anything but graceful, as the sides, -instead of tapering gradually to the apex, are carried upwards about a -third part of their height in a perpendicular direction, and are then -rounded off towards the top. They are built of brick or clay moulded -into blocks, and sunburnt, and though it seems hardly fair to assert -this to be a perishable material, after having stood as it has, the -lapse of so many centuries, it is certain that it is fast crumbling to -dust under the rude finger of time. - -We made a halt at the entrance on the south side, formed by a breach -rudely excavated in the brick-work, at a depth of several feet below -the level of the surrounding sand. There being nothing in the interior -to repay the trouble of a long crawl upon hands and knees, we rested -awhile among the ruins at the entrance, and opened our wallets. Whilst -refreshing ourselves, one of the guides who had quitted us to visit -and rifle a neighbouring tomb, brought us, carefully poised upon his -head, a well-conditioned mummy. For this relic we paid two piastres, -and amused ourselves by carefully unrolling it, but no sooner did our -employment become known, than mummies came pouring in upon us from all -quarters, and we had some difficulty in making our escape from this -novel and unpleasant market. As we were leaving the place, a large fox -made his appearance close to us. We gave chase immediately, but he -took to the Pyramid, which he mounted in good style, and then, coolly -turning round to look down upon us, took refuge in some crevice, and -was lost to us altogether. - -The tombs wherein the mummied ibis is found, lie about half-a-mile -north-east of the Pyramids, and are curious, and easily explored. -“_Potstausend!_” was our involuntary and pardonable exclamation, as the -light of our torches fell upon, and illumined the countless thousands -of earthen vessels containing the sacred bird. The pots stand on end, -layer upon layer, and on bringing some into daylight, we found each -to contain an ibis, (“_in medio tutissimus_,” of course,) carefully -enveloped in cloth, the long bill turned down upon the breast, and the -whole crumbling to dust on exposure to the air. The pottery is very -brittle, the mummy having probably been encased in its mould of damp -clay, and then rolled into shape, and deposited in the pit. Bringing -away one or two as mementos, we turned our backs upon Sakhara, and as -the sun was low when we quitted the caves, had barely time to reach -Cairo before nightfall, by a road close to the bank of the Nile, rather -more circuitous than that by the Pyramids of Ghizeh. - -On returning to my house, I found billetted upon me, a gentleman from -Calcutta, who was on his way to Italy, intending to take a long tour -by way of recreation. We soon became intimate, and I found P----n a -most agreeable companion, though I was not destined very long to -enjoy his society. Hearing Bell and myself discussing a proposal which -had been made to us some time before, to undertake a journey through -Abyssinia and the Galla country, with a view, if possible, to throw -some farther light on the rise and course of the White Nile, P----n -could not rest until he had been received into the expedition as a -volunteer, and being a fine well-built man, capable of great fatigue, -and a good horseman withal, he promised to be an acquisition to the -party. The perils of the journey, and the chances of ever returning -from so comparatively unexplored a region, having been duly weighed, it -was at length finally resolved upon, and as a great many presents would -be necessary to ingratiate ourselves with the ruling powers of such -states as lay on the line of our intended route, we paid a visit to -Alexandria. Here we laid in a stock of guns, sword-blades, red cloth, -powder, caps, &c., and other commodities of various kinds, sufficient -to load four mules. It happened, however, at the very last moment, as -it were, that I was prevented from taking my part in the enterprise, -by the receipt of letters, which threatened to call me immediately -to England. To say that I was disappointed, would but ill express my -feelings on the arrival of these (_then_) unwelcome letters, although -I have since been induced to regard the interruption of my plans in -the light rather of a providential interference, for, worn-out as I was -with the tortures of incessant rheumatism, I could scarcely suppose -myself to be in train for an undertaking of such a nature. - -All that I could do, therefore, was to assist the departure of my -friends, by seeing them safely across the desert, for which purpose Mr. -Raven lent us a van, the baggage going as usual upon camels. P----n -rode a noble horse, which he had purchased in Cairo, and was now about -to abandon, being unable to take it with him, and not liking to dispose -of it. In this dilemma it was confided to the care of Dr. A----, -whose property it had originally been. We journeyed easily along, -going all the way with the same horses, and stopping at each Station, -making excursions among the hills in quest of gazelles, which were -sufficiently abundant, though extremely shy and wary. - -On arriving at Suez, we put up at the house of a Jew merchant, until -we could hear of some boat going down the Red Sea, possessing suitable -accommodation for the party, and we had not been forty-eight hours in -the place, before a messenger brought us news of a good boat about to -sail for Jeddah, and this opportunity was at once embraced by the -travellers, who were anxious to be on their way. Our last evening -together was occupied in adjusting instruments, and regulating watches -and time-pieces. The various presents and ammunition were all repacked -in suitable forms, and in the smallest possible compass, whilst a -great store of eatables had to be laid in for the sea-voyage; P----n -resolutely refusing various things in the form of delicacies, which the -well-intentioned Mrs. ---- of the hotel pressed upon his acceptance, -declaring that he would burthen himself with nothing which he could -possibly do without, a maxim which many travellers would do well to -profit by. - -I shall pass over our leave-taking, which was more _triste_ than such -occasions commonly are, from the extreme uncertainty of our ever -meeting again. I saw them on board of the Red Sea boat, where they -spread their mats under the shelter of the raised deck, among many -other travellers bound to the southward, some of whom sat calmly -smoking, buried up to the neck, and almost concealed by their bales of -merchandise and provender, while others less accustomed to the perils -of the deep, were now prostrating themselves on their prayer-carpets, -invoking Allah to send them propitious winds. Having paid to my friends -a last and parting greeting, I returned to the hotel lonely and -disspirited. Sounds of merriment which reached me as I approached the -divan-room, seemed so very uncongenial to my feelings, that I turned -to the square to select a dromedary for my luggage, consisting of one -solitary carpet-bag, and having saddled P----n’s horse, which he had -requested me to leave with Dr. A., I turned my back upon Suez. - -Evening was setting in as I passed the well, and I had a long and -weary jog in the moonlight, to No. 6 Station, where I was refreshed -by turning into bed. Having no cause for undue haste, and not fearing -the excessive heat, to which I was now accustomed, I did not leave the -Station until ten the following morning, having previously instructed -my Bedouin to come on after me to No. 5, where I would wait for him. -The day was beautiful in the extreme; not a single cloud obscured the -vast expanse of blue above and around, whilst a light breeze from the -westward gently stirred the air. Deep in thought, I trotted leisurely -onwards, paying but little attention to the course taken by my steed, a -want of precaution which I soon had reason to regret. I was recalled to -myself by the unwonted sight of a quantity of herbage, somewhat dry and -sunburnt, it is true, but still sufficiently green to excite wonder in -the desert, where vegetation is but scarce. This extended far and wide -around me; a tuft here and there, with an interval of sand between. -I had strayed from the track, and had lost myself, whilst my horse -also seemed to be aware that something was wrong, as he all at once -came to a full stop, and began to stare about him. Then he disturbed -the silence by a loud and prolonged neighing, which was so sudden and -unexpected that it frightened me considerably. In vain I gazed round -for some landmark which might serve me as a guide in regaining the -beaten track. Nothing was to be seen but an interminable expanse of -sand. I was now really alarmed, and my imagination busied itself in -conjuring up long-forgotten stories of travellers half-roasted by the -sun, or dying of thirst, and although I had made a capital breakfast -two hours before, I was now assailed with an irresistible longing for -water. Thinking that the natural instinct of my horse might be of -service in this predicament, I gave him the rein, and let him go where -he listed; but after a few minutes trotting about, he stopped short -with a neigh, that almost jerked me out of my saddle, and I found -myself as much as ever at a loss. - -It now occurred to me that if I had not strayed very wide of the route, -a telegraph ought to be within sight, and I therefore made for the -highest of the sand hills near me. Nor was I disappointed, saving that -it proved a good two miles distant. Having reached it, I ascended, -and looked in all directions for the Station, (No. 5,) which it was -difficult to distinguish, from its close resemblance in colour to the -surrounding sand. Being now relieved from the apprehension of having -lost myself, I gazed round the horizon, in the hope of discovering the -Bedouin who had charge of my carpet-bag, which was rendered doubly -valuable, from the fact of its containing a tolerably large sum of -money in gold, and some important documents entrusted to me by P----n. -It was a long while past the hour when he should have reached No. 5, -and I felt somewhat uneasy, as I reflected that the man was totally -unknown to me, and that were he inclined to rob me, I possessed no -clue which might aid me in recovering my property. Tired and parched -with thirst, I gained the Station, and rousing the old _Bawaub_, or -door-keeper, sent him off to the Telegraph, to reconnoitre, in the hope -that his more practised eyesight might discover the truant Arab. When -he was gone, I drew the strong wooden bolt across the door, and sharing -with my horse a welcome meal of beans and water, lay down upon the -straw to sleep. - -I had not been many minutes in a state of forgetfulness, ere I was -roused by the clattering of many hoofs, and the neighing of horses. -Cautiously opening the door, I was surprised by the appearance of a -dozen or more armed Bedouins, who seemed equally astonished at the -presence of a Frank, and as it struck me as more than probable that -they had meditated recruiting their horses at the expense of Messrs. -Hill and Co., I saluted them profoundly, and accepting the proffered -pipe of friendship, sat down with them at the threshold, closing the -door after me, and resolved to await the return of the _Bawaub_ from -the Telegraph. I had no sooner explained the cause of his absence to my -new friends, and the great trouble I was in at the loss of my camel, -than one of them asked me to describe the colour of the animal, and the -dress and turban of its rider. Having done so, he informed me that he -had seen a party answering to my description, in the track on the other -side the hills, and that he was proceeding in the direction of No. 4. -Finding his statement confirmed by the rest, I waited to reward the -old door-keeper for his weary walk, and mounting my horse, reached the -centre Station as the sun was setting, and was not a little gratified -to observe my truant camel quietly chewing the cud in the court-yard. -It appeared that the Arab also had gone wide of the route, and missing -the appointed place of rendezvous, had made the best of his way to No. -4. - -A large party of travellers by the “Hindostan” steamer arrived in the -course of the night, from Suez, amongst whom was Lord E----e, who had -passed rapidly onwards towards Alexandria: I rode in company with the -remainder to No. 2, where we stayed the night. The Hotel at Cairo was -crowded with travellers, who had flocked in from all parts. Among those -from Upper Egypt, I was glad to welcome my friend M---- P----, who -seemed surprised to find me still in Cairo, and that I had abandoned -the Abyssinian journey. He had made arrangements to start off after -the others, so as to overtake them at Missouah, and had ordered from -England an enormous box of valuables to carry with him, which, after -much search, we succeeded in rescuing from a store, where it had been -deposited on its arrival. Some of his instruments were unfortunately -much injured, and from the impossibility of getting them repaired, -rendered altogether useless. - -I found that Mr. Raven had gone down to Alexandria in one of his small -steamers, and not wishing to await the chance of another opportunity, -I joined my friend D---- of the Peninsular Company, and two gentlemen -who were returning to England, in chartering a Nile boat for our -own use. Packing up my few valuables, and bidding a final adieu to -my Cairo friends, I rode down to Boulac, where I found my companions -all ready for a start. With a fair wind, we dropped silently down the -river, and the long evening was beguiled by a recital of some of the -adventures of M---- M----, who was fresh from Upper Egypt, and boiling -over with the latest news from Thebes and the cataracts. It would have -been better for us had we thus continued to amuse ourselves during the -entire night, for on retiring to our sleeping-places, we found them -swarming with rats and cockroaches, not to speak of the myriads of -fleas which hopped over us in all directions, nor the perpetual sting -of the not less troublesome musquitoe. It was in vain that I smoked -pipe after pipe of tobacco, the combined nuisance continued unabated, -and had I even succeeded in chasing away my tormentors, the tortures of -rheumatism would have effectually banished sleep. - -Early on the morning of the third-day, we reached Atféh, and were so -fortunate as to find one of our iron track-boats, going empty down the -canal. Whilst shifting our luggage, a second boat-load of travellers -arrived in our wake, and joined us. Ten miles from Atféh we came -alongside of the pleasure-boat belonging to Mr. L. of Alexandria, who -no sooner caught sight of us, than he insisted upon our landing at his -farm, and joining him at dinner. - -From the conversation maintained at table, I was led to opine that -the term of my quarantine at Malta was likely to be passed in very -agreeable company, as most of the party intended taking the next -French steamer. Among other visitors stopping at Mr. L’s house, was an -English gentleman who had spent some months in a ramble through the -fertile plains bordering on the Nile. In the course of his wanderings -he had fallen in with Mehemet Ali, who, waiving all ceremony, had sent -a Janissary to invite him to a tete-a-tete dinner. Such an honour had -perhaps never before been conferred upon a Frank, in an ex-official -capacity, and was even now enhanced by the fact of the impromptu meal -being served as much as possible in the European style, at a table -on which a white cloth was spread, chairs being also placed for the -Viceroy and his guest. Between each dish, and there were many, the -old gentleman took a deep draught[17] of the _sheshè_ which stood on -the ground at his side, insisting that our friend should follow his -example. Agriculture formed the chief subject of discourse, the Pasha -appearing quite at home in various farming operations, for which his -guest would not previously have given him credit. With our relations -with China too, he was very conversant, blaming us strongly for -teaching the Chinese how to go to war, and confidently declaring, that -with their extraordinary talent for imitation, the rascals would, one -day or another, be turning round upon, and robbing us of India. The -repast concluded with coffee, and a pipe was handed to the Englishman, -to his no small astonishment, such being a compliment paid only to -those of the highest military rank. - -Our party sat talking over Mr. L.’s excellent wines, until so late -an hour, that it was nearly dusk ere we returned to our boat, and we -reached the quay at Moharrem Bey, long after the gates of Alexandria -had been closed for the night. We were thus compelled to sleep in the -boat, although some of our party refused to submit to this proceeding, -until they had made trial of an expedition to the city walls, from -which they returned after an unsuccessful attempt at parley with the -sentinels on guard, in a language of which neither party understood ten -words. - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[16] Coverlids of quilted cotton. - -[17] The word _ishrob_, which is applied to the act of smoking, -means in Arabic, _to drink_, a synonyme explained by the practice of -_swallowing_ or _inhaling_ the smoke, peculiar to Orientals. - - - - -CHAPTER XIV. - - THE “MINOS” AGAIN--CAFE FRANCAIS--THE ENFIELD STAGE--DEPARTURE - FROM EGYPT--CHANGE OF BOATS AT SYRA--A GALE IN THE - MEDITERRANEAN--MALTA--THE QUARANTINE HARBOUR--FORT MANUEL--INQUISITIVE - GUARDIANO--TRAVELLERS’ COLLECTIONS--SANITARY REGULATIONS AND LOW - DIET--THE PARLATORI--RESOURCES IN QUARANTINE--HAPPY RELEASE. - - -On inquiring of my friend Furner, at the office, I found that the -“Minos” French steamer was to start on the 7th, and that I had only one -clear day to make my final arrangements for quitting Egypt. The packing -of my few boxes was speedily accomplished, and my passport, which had -so long laid dormant, was now once more drawn forth, and sent to the -Consulate for the necessary stamps and signatures. I spent a portion of -my last evening in Alexandria at my old quarters in the English Okella, -now occupied by Mr. Portenier and his wife, and so thoroughly repaired -and decorated, that I should scarcely have recognised it for the same -dwelling. The improvement had, however, been entirely confined to the -interior of the house. The Okella and its dark-covered gallery were -unchanged, and on the outer-door of Portenier’s house, I could still -remark the red plague-seal, which, on my first arrival in Egypt, had -often caused a shudder. - -I could not resist the inclination, before the evening had quite -closed in, to pay a final visit to some old and well-known spots, so -I strolled through the Café Français, as yet almost untenanted, and -down its dirty stone-staircase to the back of the Okella, close to the -sea-shore. There, in its cobwebbed solitude, stood the old Enfield -stage, umwhile the pride of Glover, who little thought, as he rumbled -along to and from the Bank twice a-day, with his six insides, that his -rickety old machine was ever destined to run from Enfield Wash to the -Red Sea. Such had nevertheless been the intention of Mr. Waghorn in -purchasing it, and sending it out to Egypt, though if it ever get there -now, it must certainly be through the intervention of miracle. - -I had a long chat with Furner, who told me that he also was meditating -a change, and that he looked either towards Bombay or Calcutta as -his next location, waiting only for the transit business changing -hands, which would be the signal for his departure. He and Mr. Raven -accompanied me the next morning on board the “Minos,” where I found -Lord E. and his suite, and a good sprinkling of passengers, among whom -I recognised most of those of the dinner-party at Mr. L.’s, on the -Mahmoudieh. I had just time to bid my kind friends a hearty farewell, -when the bell was heard, and we were off. I lingered to take a parting -look at the quaint windmills and low sandy shores of Iskander, and -then turned my back upon Egypt: with regret, it is true, for in that -strange land I had been kindly received and treated, and had found -friends, whose value appeared greatly enhanced now that I was leaving -them behind, and with many of whom I should scarcely ever meet again. -However, as the deck of a French war-steamer is one of the spots least -suited to quiet reflection, I made my way to the cabin, where some of -my countrymen had already betaken themselves to their sleeping-places, -as a precautionary measure against _mal de mer_. There was in truth but -little inducement to remain above, for the wind was high and in our -teeth, giving promise of an unfavourable passage. - -On the night of the 10th, we anchored at Syra, and were there -transferred to another boat of the same enterprise, called the -“Rhamses,” parting company at the same time with several of our -fellow-passengers, who were bound for Constantinople. On again standing -out to sea, the wind had increased to a gale, which tossed us about -most unpleasantly, and I shall not easily forget the appearance of -things on the morning of the 12th, when I ascended to the deck before -the breakfast hour. The hatchways closely battened down, benches lashed -together, and guns carefully encased in tarpaulin, while the pumps -were got into readiness, and an extra tiller-bar fished up from below, -looked, to my unpractised eye, like symptoms of an impending storm, -whilst our skipper, having laid aside his gold-laced cap and swallow -tails, had donned a stiff pea-jacket and indisputable sou’-wester, and -was now darting a rapid but penetrating glance at the disposition of -things aloft, as he held on to the rail of the companion-ladder. The -aspect of the sea was terrific, and I really could scarcely venture -to keep my eye upon waves, over which it seemed morally impossible -that our ship could ride. Now, the horizon would appear limited to the -compass of a few acres only, and then again, elevated upon the crown of -some gigantic sea, we seemed poised, as it were, in mid-air, surrounded -by an interminable boundless waste of waters. Our good ship struggled -gallantly with the waves, but it was evident, with all her puffing -and groaning, that she made no way whatever, and our captain at length -reluctantly gave the order to put about and go before the wind. This -proceeding altered things for the better: the heavy seas no longer -broke over our deck, and the severe shocks against our bows, which -had previously thrown the whole ship into convulsions, were felt less -frequently. Thus we passed the ensuing day and night, by which time the -gale had somewhat abated, and we resumed our course. - -On the 14th, about midnight, we espied the friendly and cheering light -of Malta, and I believe we all felt considerably grateful to find -ourselves riding in the smooth water and safety of the quarantine -harbour. We were however destined to pass another day and night on -board the “Rhamses,” as the Lazaretto was not ready for our reception, -but on the 16th, we were landed at Fort Manuel, and consigned in lots -to the care of the health officers, every three persons having a -separate _Guardiano_. - -The first appearance of the Lazaretto is by no means pleasing to one -who knows that he must there undergo a three weeks’ imprisonment, -but I have often heard it affirmed, and can in my own case bear -ample testimony to the truth of the assertion, that under ordinary -circumstances, the term of quarantine may prove a period of great -enjoyment. Of course, much depends upon the character of the persons -with whom you are associated, but it would be strange indeed, if among -the large and mixed party thus thrown together, there were not some one -more gifted than the rest with the power and will to amuse or instruct -his companions, whilst for the development of character, few places -are better situated than Fort Manuel. Our steamer’s boats landed us -and our baggage at the stairs, from whence we were escorted, by our -guardians, through a formidable sort of fortification, and across a -large quadrangle, to an opposite building, where we were shown into a -series of empty rooms, and requested to make our selection. I found one -in an angle of the building, containing an iron bedstead and table, and -no sooner had I thrown my bag upon the brick-floor, in token of right -of possession, than a functionary from below put into my hands the -price-current of the furniture-broker of the Lazaretto, who undertakes -to supply, for a trifling sum, the wherewith to furnish your chamber. -Having made my selection, I was next waited upon by the cuisinier of -the establishment, who likewise solicited my patronage. I got rid of -him by ordering dinner. - -The next visitation that I experienced, was on the part of my own -particular guardian, who having begged the key of my portmanteau, -most unceremoniously exposed the whole of its contents. My linen he -unfolded and hung on a clothes-horse, whilst from pegs in the wall, -he suspended an array of coats and trousers, giving my furnished -lodging the appearance of an old-clothes shop. Nothing escaped his -vigilance. Dressing-case and drawing-box were fished out and opened, -and the secret recesses of my writing-desk, which it almost puzzled -_me_ to arrive at, flew apart as if by magic, at the “open-sesame” -of my unnatural guardian, who finished up by taking the tops off my -pill-boxes, and the stoppers out of my medicine-bottles. On visiting -some of my neighbours, I found that they had been served in the same -way, and the odd mixture of articles in an apartment called the _mess -(!)_ room, which contained five or six beds, was quite laughable, and -as a museum, was perfectly unique, each individual’s private collection -giving a sufficiently good clue to his tastes and character. There were -enough of cherry-sticks and chibouques to have stocked a cigar-divan, -whilst we might easily have managed a bal-costumè with the variety of -Oriental dresses which were here brought to light. One of our company -was highly indignant, and I thought, justly ashamed of the exposè made -of a quantity of chippings from the glorious temples of Upper Egypt, -which had been cracked off during his antiquarian ramble, to serve as -trophies and mementos when he should regain his own fireside. - -Whilst viewing his collection, we were summonsed by the sound of -the dinner-bell, and repaired to the common-hall, somewhat curious -to test the powers of the Maltese restaurateur, who was to feed us -in quarantine, at the rate of four-and-sixpence for dinner, and -fourteen-pence for breakfast. From the price of the former, we -naturally expected a substantial meal, but finding the sanitary -authorities decidedly in favour of low diet, such as weak broth with -salads and sour-krout, and no end of gherkins and beet-root, and an -appeal to the cook proving unproductive of better fare, I resolved to -send over the way to my friend Baker, of the “Princess Royal,” and -trust to his discrimination to send me something more substantial. -Nor was I disappointed; the next morning witnessed the arrival of -a well-stocked hamper, containing among other things, a formidable -“piece de resistance,” in the shape of a boiled round of beef, and -an apple-pie that excited the wonder of the whole establishment of -Quarantine officers. Some of my companions followed my example, and -thus by alternately dining with each other, we managed constantly -to vary our bill of fare, and get our meal at less expense than when -served by the Maltese cook, who viewed our private larder with great -indignation, and no doubt regretted having voluntarily submitted to a -term of quarantine destined to profit him so little. - -The Lazaretto at Fort Manuel, consists of three separate buildings, -each capable of accommodating from twelve to twenty persons, one of -these being exclusively devoted to the use of such as may be reported -under the yellow flag, or taken ill subsequent to their admission. In -our case, we came with a clean bill of health, a fact which seemed in -no way to influence the vigilance of our guardians, who never came -nearer to us than was absolutely necessary; and during the whole period -of our probationary imprisonment, treated us as though we had been -really plague-stricken. On one occasion, I was severely reprimanded for -having scattered some torn fragments of letters from my window, as, had -the breeze been sufficiently strong to carry any portion over the water -into Citta Vecchia, I should innocently have placed the whole island in -quarantine. Each particle was carefully picked up and destroyed. All -letters out were duly punctured and fumigated, and our converse with -visitors from the island across the double bars of the Parlatori, where -secrets of great import were necessarily confided in the loudest key, -was curious enough. - -On the Sabbath we attended Divine service in the church attached to the -Fort, two clergymen of our party officiating alternately, but for our -Catholic attendants there was no place of worship, from the fact, I -suppose, that no priest could be found sufficiently zealous to devote -himself to a perpetual quarantine. Morning mass, however, was not to -be neglected, and our good Catholics resorted to the only means within -their reach to secure its enjoyment. Rising one day somewhat earlier -than usual, I was surprised to observe a number of persons kneeling on -the stones at the end of the open corridor, extending along the front -of the building we occupied. As they simultaneously made the sign of -the cross, and appeared all to direct their attention to one particular -object, I soon discovered that their altar and officiating priest were -at least a good half-mile off on the opposite shore. Waiting until -the ceremony was over, I fetched my glass, and could then remark a -small chapel in the side of the rock, wherein the service had been -conducted, and from which the priest and a little crowd of devotees -were now departing. This was, indeed, silent worship, yet doubtless -as acceptable as though it had been offered in a gorgeous temple, -and accompanied with all the pomp and ceremony of the most elaborate -Catholic mass. - -Our walks and rambles in quarantine were necessarily very limited, -being confined to the ramparts and fortifications which surrounded -us, and the spacious court-yard in front of the Lazaretto. We had -books from Muir’s Library to read, and, as Murray says, “drawings -to finish, and journals to fetch up,” and these resources occupied -the hours of daylight, whilst our evenings passed away round the -tea-table of one or other of our company, either in social chat, and -the relation of bye-gone experiences, or in the enjoyment of embryo -tales and poems from the portfolio of one of our party, who has since -given them to the world. We had besides, a very amusing companion, who -had been everywhere and seen everything, and could perform the most -astounding feats in legerdemain, so that with these resources, it is no -wonder if our time passed away pleasantly enough, and that we almost -regretted an unexpected piece of news brought to us one morning by a -smiling _guardiano_. This was to the effect, that the Board of Health -had decided upon cutting short our term of quarantine by several -days, and that we were now at liberty. Soon afterwards a servant -from the “Princess Royal” came for my luggage, and stepping into a -gaudy-coloured little Maltese boat, I was ferried across the harbour, -and was once more at large. I made the best of my way to the hotel, -for I was conscious that my appearance was anything but calculated to -excite respect in the eyes of the Maltese signory, whom I encountered -in my passage through the town. One sleeve of my frock-coat was all -but off, to say nothing of divers rents and holes in other parts of my -dress. Boots I had none, their place being usurped by a pair of Arab -slippers, whilst my head, which had not yet recovered its legitimate -thatch, was crowned with a Fez _tarboosh_. My friend Borg, who had -kindly met me at the water’s edge, though apparently ashamed of my -acquaintance, insisted upon introducing me to a tailor, who might help -me to assume a less questionable appearance, and with the prospect of -some decent apparel on the morrow, I took refuge in the hotel. - - - - -CHAPTER XV. - - CHOICE OF A ROUTE--THE “ERCOLANO”--SYRACUSE--THE - ALBERGO DEL SOLE--SICILIAN COBBLER--THE EAR OF - DIONYSIUS--BEAUTIFUL GARDENS--MUSEUM--MESSINA--ANCIENT - FRESCO--TROPEA--STROMBOLI--NAPLES--“HOTEL DE NEW - YORK”--HERCULANEUM--POMPEII--STREETS--SHOPS--PRIVATE HOUSES--PROGRESS - OF EXCAVATION. - - -During my imprisonment in the Lazaretto, I had employed some of my -leisure time in selecting the most agreeable route homewards, for -towards England I had pretty much determined to go. My desire to -revisit Italy increased in proportion as I approached its shores, -and I determined to make the best of my way to Naples, and examine -at leisure its manifold beauties and wonders. The “Ercolano,” a fine -Sicilian steamer, touching at Messina and Syracuse, seemed to offer -a good opportunity for visiting those cities, and catching a distant -glimpse of Etna. I took leave of Malta on a beautiful evening in April. -The accommodation on board this boat was superior even to that of the -French line of packets, and I found my berth so comfortable when I -turned in about the hour of ten, that I soon fell asleep, and enjoyed -a night of uninterrupted rest, a gratification which the rheumatism had -long before refused me. Nor did I wake until we were ready to drop our -anchor in the harbour of Syracuse, when my friend P----s, whom I had -been so fortunate as to meet on board, came down to arouse me. - -The view from the deck of our ship was lovely. It was a most sultry -morning, and the landscape with its glowing sky and blue water, -positively rivalled, in intensity of brightness, the odd gummy-looking -coloured lithographs in black borders, which one meets with in all the -Italian printshops. In the distance towered Etna, faintly smoking, -whilst the yellow-looking houses of Syracuse, coming down almost to the -water’s edge, were reflected so distinctly therein, that had we stood -upon our heads, the same landscape must have greeted us. There was not -a breath of air, and the sun, even so early as eight o’clock, shone out -as though it would scorch the very fish. No wonder that old Archimedes -could set ships on fire with his burning-glasses, at half-a-mile off! - -We had no sooner come to a stand-still, and commenced blowing off -our steam, than there was a slight stir perceptible on shore, and -two or three lazy boatmen pulled off towards us. At an inn near the -shore, the Albergo del _Sole_, (for here the sun seems to influence -everything, animate and inanimate,) we found a cool room and a -breakfast, both of which were duly appreciated. But Syracuse is too -rich in antiquities, to allow of much repose in-doors during a stay -limited to twelve hours only, and therefore, though it was positive -labour to walk about, I knocked the ashes out of my pipe, and sought -the street. At the door of the inn, I found a fierce-looking unshaven -cobbler, who presented himself as a cicerone, probably finding the -_buona-mano_ of travellers yield a more profitable revenue than the -stall under the windows of the “Sole.” Closing with his offer of -service, I strolled off to visit the _contorni_ of Syracuse, which -abound with theatres, aqueducts and fountains, the relics of former -greatness, whilst traces of the engineering labours of Archimedes are -everywhere manifest. - -Perhaps the greatest curiosity of the neighbourhood is the celebrated -“Ear of Dionysius,” an excavation in the solid rock, occupying one -corner of a large quarry. It measures about seventy yards in length, -with an average height of forty or fifty feet, but was evidently at -one time much more lofty, being now partially filled up. The external -orifice is in its form something like a horse’s ear, and the sharp -angle at the top, runs along to the extreme end, where it terminates -in an opening of a yard square, leading to a chamber. Here, as the -story goes, the tyrant used to secrete himself, and feast his ears with -the groans of his victims, an assertion which our shoemaking guide -declared to be beyond dispute. Those among the Sicilians, however, who -have bestowed any thought upon the subject, conjecture that the ear -was connected with an adjacent theatre, and that its natural acoustic -properties were in some way made subservient to orchestral purposes. -This supposition, far-fetched though it may appear, will not seem so -improbable, when the relative positions of the ear and that portion -of the theatre already excavated, have been duly considered. The mere -tearing of a piece of writing-paper, is loudly echoed, and one is -really afraid to cough, in consequence of the distressing asthmatic -effects which ensue from the other end of the gallery. The noise -produced by the discharge of a sixpenny cannon is absolutely deafening, -and not only are you obliged to submit to it, but expected to pay -also for the injury sustained by your tympanum. I felt glad to escape -again into the bright sunshine, and was next conducted by my guide to -a garden, the property of some Sicilian nobleman, one of the loveliest -spots I ever set foot in. It lies sheltered in the bosom of an ancient -quarry, which completely encloses it, and the eye is here greeted -with rare shrubs, both foreign and indigenous, whilst the sense of -smell is regaled with the odours of flowers and tropical fruits. Ripe -lemons and citrons dangled amid the dark green foliage, and as this -little Eden was not garnished with stiff-looking pieces of painted tin, -requesting the visitor “not to touch,” we touched, handled, and tasted -to our heart’s content, of the produce of the garden, the old gardener -culling here and there for our gratification. He even insisted upon our -carrying away with us some lemons of a strange species, of delicious -flavour, the pulp being the eatable part. This was white and sweet, and -of the consistency of cream-cheese. - -Returning to the city, I visited a museum but recently established, -possessing already some rarities of great value. The most striking, is -a headless statue of Venus, of exquisite symmetry, dug up near some -neighbouring catacombs. I never saw so beautiful a figure. Though -carefully sought for, the head has not yet been discovered, but the -statue was considered to possess such merit, that Canova was sent -for to supply the missing portion. He died, however, before he could -execute it. - -In the evening, we were again summoned on board, and another night’s -steaming brought us to Messina, where we had a similar leave of absence -from our captain. Two or three of us took a calesse, and saw some of -the curiosities of the place, but the town, noisy and bustling, and in -respect of its quays and shipping, not unlike Rouen, was soon quitted -by us for the more genial campagna, where we strolled at leisure among -the hills which rise at the back of the city, from whence the view -of the Straits and the Calabrian shore is very beautiful. In an old -convent in the suburbs, we were shown a fresco of “the Last Supper,” -bearing a striking resemblance to that of Leonardo da Vinci, at -Milan, and in precisely the same relative situation at the end of the -refectory. It is of very recent discovery, and was accidentally brought -to light by the removal of a thick coat of plaster which covered the -wall. - -Tropea, on the Calabrian coast, seems a charming spot, embosomed in -a little rocky valley. Here we took on board a large boat-load of -the country people in their picturesque costumes, and amongst them, -looking very much out of place, an English engineer, employed in the -working of some newly-opened mines. Stromboli, which rises from the -water like a vast cone, crowned with a perpetual wreath of thin smoke, -was in view a great part of the day. To pass the night below, I found -impossible, for a calm evening on the Mediterranean is productive of -too much enjoyment, to be snored away altogether in one’s berth. All -our passengers seemed alike inclined to shun the cabin, and long after -dark, we sat lounging in groups upon the deck, listening to the songs -of the Sicilian sailors forward, or watching the lights created under -our bows, as we cleaved the water. I never saw the phosphorescent -appearance to greater advantage than on this occasion. The froth -produced by our paddles was altogether illumined, and looked like a -shower of fiery sparks, whilst our wake, almost as far back as the eye -could reach, seemed to be a reflection of the milky way. - -Morning brought us to Naples, and I was once more landed at the -custom-house. A solitary pound of _Latakia_, the last of my stock, -was seized upon with evident avidity. I had foolishly imagined that -by making no attempt to conceal it, it might escape notice. Two of my -friends were more fortunate. They succeeded in _running_ a couple of -bags, containing a dozen or more pounds, by hanging them over the arm -in their cloaks, the officers who handled their pockets omitting to -notice those garments. I put up at the “Hotel de New York,” close to -the quay, in preference to the more expensive houses of the Chiaja, -usually patronized by our countrymen. Two of my fellow-travellers, one -a Russian, the other a _brave Belge_, bore me company, and we had no -reason to regret our choice. Here I had the good fortune to meet with -a _laquais de place_, who could speak no broken English whatever, and -finding that his French would likewise have stood a poor chance of -being recognised in the Palais Royal, I engaged him immediately. - -On the morning after my arrival at Naples, I arose with feelings -akin to those of the school-boy, to whom the pedagogue has granted a -_whole holiday_, and whose excitement at the consciousness of some -extraordinary pleasure to come, prompts him to jump out of bed some -hours before there is any occasion. I was about to visit Pompeii,--the -very idol of all my wishes, since the day, when seated in my lofty -cane-bottomed chair, I was allowed, by way of especial treat to see, -but not to touch, the curious pictures in Sir William Gell’s book. -Now, I was about to roam at will through its deserted streets, and -realize some of those feelings which I had experienced as a child, when -listening to the wondrous tales of travelled friends, or the more -glowing pages of some pleasant author, whose imagination has enabled us -to mix with its busy and unconscious multitudes at the very moment of -its destruction. - -A carriage with three stout black horses, unicorn-fashion, was at the -door of the hotel by half-past seven, and providing ourselves with -some cold fowl and Capri wine, we set off for Herculaneum, rattling -over the hard stones at a pace which would have been alarming, had our -horses been held in by any other than a Neapolitan coachman. A ride of -an hour brought us to Resina, and we alighted at the stone steps which -lead to an ancient theatre, freed only in part from the load of lava -which buried it. The sinking of a well by a peasant is said to have -led to its discovery, in the year 1713. The lad who provided us with -torches, and showed us over the place, pointed to the various spots -where such and such relics had been found, referring us to the Museum -at Naples for the farther gratification of our curiosity, and seeming -to agree with us that these interesting objects might, with equal -propriety, have been left where they were first discovered, instead -of being transplanted from the places with which they are associated, -to swell an already over-stocked collection. Such, however, has been -the fate of every moveable relic of antiquity disinterred at Pompeii -and Herculaneum. There is thus comparatively little left to interest -the visitor, and having strolled through the damp passages, and poked -our torches into the dark comers, we proceeded down one of the little -guttered streets of Resina, to the garden-gate, which serves as the -portal to Herculaneum. Having passed the threshold, and descended a few -steps, we stood upon the Appian Way. On each side of this, probably one -of the chief thoroughfares, the houses have been cleared of the lava, -which, like a boiling tide, flowed in upon and covered them, and the -visitor may now walk at will among the roofless dwellings of the city, -while his busy imagination vainly tries to invest them with the forms -and figures of those who trod the same stones eighteen hundred years -before. On some of the walls there are frescoes, which appear to have -retained their primitive brightness of colour, notwithstanding the -intense heat to which they have been exposed, and there are still many -beautiful pieces of mosaic in the floors of some of the houses, which, -from fear of breakage, have escaped translation to the Museum. - -Owing to the great difficulty and expense of removing the solid lava, -but a small portion only of Herculaneum has been laid bare, and though -it is probable that a rich store of antiquities would be brought to -light by further excavation, it seems unlikely that the Neapolitan -Government will go to any more expense in that way. - -Regaining our carriage, which had been waiting for us in the road -above, we pushed on for three or four miles, through thick clouds of -dust, to La Nunciata, catching an occasional glimpse of Castellamare -and the blue mountains beyond, whilst Vesuvius, rising from among the -cindery-looking vineyards of the rare _Lagrima_, formed the prominent -feature on our left hand. At every step, the evidences of volcanic -movement meet the eye. The foundations of the houses are of lava, -lying in huge masses by the road-side, just as they have been rolled -down from the mountain, and the carriage-way itself is so beautifully -hard, that it needs only an occasional shower to wash away the dust, to -retain it in perfect order. - -Arrived at the gate of Pompeii, we regained the Via Appia, and leaving -our carriage under the thick shade of some almond-trees, entered the -street of tombs, or suburb of the ancient city. Here is the house said -to have been tenanted by the wealthy Diomede, with its ground and upper -floors, and walled garden, and a capacious cellar extending round three -sides of the quadrangle. It was here that the skeletons of seven -persons were found huddled together in a corner, most probably those -of the females of the family, who had retreated to the _souterrain_, -in the hope that they might be sheltered from the burning shower which -issued from the mountain. But the ashy rain penetrated and pervaded -everything, filtering through the crevices in the form of a fine -dust, filling up the very amphoræ, with which old Diomede, doubtless -a _bon vivant_, had plentifully stored his cellar. Farther on, are -several tombs in excellent preservation, and then passing through the -gate, we entered upon one of the chief streets of the city. The paved -carriage-way still shows the wheel-marks of former times, although -the street itself is so narrow, that it is difficult to believe there -was much passing to and fro. It seems more probable that horses and -vehicles were left at the _Osterie_, outside the gates, and that -locomotion within the city was principally confined to walking, with -the occasional luxury of a sedan. - -The street in which we now found ourselves, appears to have been one of -the busiest thoroughfares of the city, to judge from the line of shops -on either side, which all bear more or less evidence of the business -once carried on therein. In that of the baker, for example, who ground -his flour, kneaded the dough, and baked his bread in one and the same -little shop, we found the mill, the slab, and the oven. It appears, -however, that so sudden was the alarm which seized the terrified -inhabitants, that the poor baker fled with the rest, leaving his batch -in the oven, whence it was drawn after a lapse of near two thousand -years, and deposited in the Borbonico. At the counter of the wine-shop, -the print of the measure is still apparent, whilst now and then the -eye is greeted with a sign, either on the sill or over the door-way, -of callings somewhat more objectionable. Shops and private houses -stand side by side, and close to the splendid dwellings, of which the -ownership has been assigned to Sallust, Cecilius Capella, and Modestus, -may be seen the modest shop of a blacksmith, and the laboratory of a -dispensing chemist. Farther on are baths, and an academy of music, -with the house of the Edile Pansa; a hotel, the studio of a painter, -and a crockery shop. The houses of private individuals are recognized -by the inscriptions in red-letters, even now perfectly legible, whilst -the identity of the particular business carried on in the shops is -less doubtfully established by the relics continually found in them. -The Terme, or baths, are in excellent preservation, from the bason -of marble down to the leaden pipe and water-cock. The house of the -Fauns has been lately discovered, and a number of interesting relics -were in course of removal at the time of our visit, though it was some -consolation to learn, that the beautiful tessellated pavement, which -adorns the whole ground-floor of this building, is to remain intact. -Each of our guides carried a large wet sponge, to bring out the colours -of the mosaics and frescoes. The former, indeed, are kept sedulously -concealed by a layer of dust and broken fragments, and would entirely -escape the eye of any traveller, unaccompanied by a _custode_. - -Having examined the most interesting houses in the heart of the -city, we walked over an extensive tract of orchard-ground, to the -amphitheatre, which is in a state of great preservation. Here, the -range of benches appropriated to the Pompejan ladies appears to have -been the uppermost tier, as far as possible removed from the arena, and -therefore less exposed to risk from the accidental escape of any of -the animals. From the nature of the relics here discovered, it seems -probable that some spectacle was in course of performance, when the -first shower of hot ashes gave the signal for flight, though it would -appear that the danger was not so immediate, but that all had time to -make good their retreat. - -On returning to the city, we paused to examine the Temple of Isis -and its oracle, a spot which the imagination of Sir E. B. Lytton has -invested with such peculiar interest, and passing into the ruins of -the Forum, we seated ourselves on some fragments of its chaste Doric -columns, and opened our wallets. Here we took a retrospective glance at -the wonders disclosed by our morning’s ramble, and fixed them upon our -minds whilst the recollection of them was still fresh. For more than -eighty years the process of excavation has been carrying on, and it -is supposed, that at the present rate of disinterment, another eighty -must elapse before the whole of Pompeii is uncovered. Not a third part, -indeed, of the ground within the walls, which are two miles round, has -yet been moved, and if the supposition be correct, that the whole of -this area is built upon, there is labour in store for many generations. - - - - - - -CHAPTER XVI. - - THE CAMPO SANTO--CHURCHES--THE MISERERE--CURIOUS - SCULPTURE--AGNANO--GROTTO DEL CANE--FROGS--POZZUOLO--CAVE - OF THE SYBIL--HOT SPRINGS--BOILED EGGS--HOT SAND--NO END OF - PHENOMENA--BAIÆ--VESUVIUS--RESINA--THE HERMITAGE--FATIGUING - ASCENT--THE CRATER--COMING DOWN WITH A RUN--THE “MONGIBELLO”--CIVITA - VECCHIA--ROME. - - -I devoted the remaining three or four days of my stay at Naples to a -round of sight-seeing, resigning myself with this purpose into the -hands of my _cicerone_ of the “New York.” I made frequent visits to -the Campo Santo, wishing to see whether any of the varied accounts -of the mode of sepulture there practised might accord with my own -observation. I witnessed the interment of some scores of persons, of -various ages and stations, and saw but little that could shock even a -very fastidious person. About six in the evening, the iron gates of -the walled inclosure are thrown open, and then may be seen arriving, -either in plain hearses, at a rapid trot, or on the shoulders of some -stout porter, the simple wooden coffins containing the dead. These are -first carried within the little chapel at the gate, where a short mass -is said, and then placed contiguous to the mouth of the particular -pit about to be opened, there being one for every day in the year. No -sorrowing relations are to be seen: they have paid the last tribute of -respect to the deceased ere the coffin had left the house of mourning, -and do not unnecessarily prolong their grief, by following the remains -to the grave. The square stone secured with mortar, which covers the -mouth of the pit, is now removed with the aid of a powerful lever, -and an attendant drops in the bodies, one by one, never omitting to -throw in after them the little wreath of flowers with which each -is accompanied. Fresh mortar is then brought, and the stone firmly -fastened down for another year; the coffins, which are again and again -to serve the same purpose, are then carried away, and the ceremony of -interment is concluded. - -The churches of Naples are particularly well worth visiting, though to -go the round of the whole three hundred, would require a greater amount -of patience than I possess, and I succeeded, moreover, so badly in an -attempt to hear the famed Miserere in the church of the Conservatorio, -that my sight-seeing determination received a severe check. By dint -of a great amount of pushing and squeezing through a dense mass of -people, I managed eventually to secure standing-room, at a considerable -distance from the choir, from which position I was soon compelled to -retreat by reason of the suffocating heat, and peculiar Neapolitan -odours, having lost nothing, except my handkerchief and the whole of -Zingarelli’s sublime composition. For a clever pickpocket, commend me -to the _gamin de Naples_, who will contrive, even in broad daylight, -to ease a stranger of every thing worth stealing. After the loss of -three handkerchiefs, I found that my only safeguard was to go entirely -without one. - -But to return to the churches, of which some will be found particularly -interesting in the way of pictures and valuable marbles. In the -cathedral of San Gennaro, are some matchless columns of Egyptian -granite, (covered over by the way for some purpose or other, with a -coating of stucco,) besides others of porphyry and cipollino, with -bronzes and valuable paintings. The chapel of San Severo is remarkable -for some specimens of sculpture, exhibiting a recumbent body covered -with a thin veil, so dexterously worked in marble, that the development -of the various muscles beneath the gauze is admirably managed, and -there is another figure still more extraordinary, of a man entangled -in a fine net. Here, the artist must have inserted his chisel between -the meshes, which come in contact with the body of the statue only in a -few places, the whole production evincing a vast amount both of skill -and labour. - -There is so much to see and admire in Naples and its neighbourhood, -that I hardly knew which way to turn. I had yet to visit Baiæ, and -the western shore of the Bay, whilst each time that my eyes rested on -Vesuvius, I was reminded of an additional obligation. These, however, -were scenes which I had no desire to visit alone, having always been of -opinion, that the pleasures of travelling are materially enhanced by -agreeable society, and though it may be all very pleasant to shoulder a -knapsack, and walk a hundred miles on end with no other companion than -one’s own thoughts, the charms of lake and mountain are not the less -fully appreciated when shared by an intelligent fellow-traveller. Such -was my friend P----s, upon whom I stumbled one evening in the Toledo, -and a proposal on his part to visit Baiæ on the morrow, was hailed by -me with pleasure. - -The carriage of my host of the “York,” was again put in requisition, -and quitting Naples, _di buon ora_, we rattled merrily through the -Grotto of Posilipo, and then taking the dusty road to the right, -reached the simmering lake of Agnano. Close by its shore is the famed -Grotto del Cane, where of course we paid the fee, entitling us to -reduce an unlucky hound to a state of syncope. Indeed, the poor animal -seemed so habituated to the cruel infliction, that he sneezed and -kicked himself back into life in the most good-humoured way imaginable, -and ran away with a big bit of bread in his mouth to keep up his -spirits until the arrival of some other party. The gaseous vapour, -which has the same effect upon the nasal organs as when a bottle of -soda-water is swallowed too hastily, rises to a height of eighteen -inches above the floor of the little cavern. The poor dog is firmly -held by the feet within the gas until he has ceased to move, and is -then laid upon the grass outside, where the fresh air speedily restores -him. The ground in the immediate neighbourhood of the lake is alive -with small frogs, which jump about by hundreds at every foot-fall, and -appear to thrive wonderfully well upon the noxious vapours with which -the region abounds. Here are also some vapour-baths of great efficacy -in chronic cases, and I believe they are much resorted to. - -Returning to the road, we reached anon the ancient Pozzuolo, or place -of wells, romantically situated upon the shore. The ruins of the city -may be clearly observed beneath the blue water of the bay, which would -seem to have encroached upon it suddenly, whilst on the other hand the -earthquake has not been idle, the whole of the town having been more -than once laid in ruins. Here are the remains of an amphitheatre of -prodigious dimensions, with ruined villas, bridges and temples. As we -passed through the town, our vehicle was besieged by a clamorous posse -of young ruffians, laden with antiques of all sorts, both genuine and -modern, who clambered upon the steps and wheels, and got up behind and -before in their anxiety to relieve us of a few carlini in return for -their terra-cottas. Our coachman’s whip was the only argument they -would listen to, and having thus got quit of them, we skirted once more -along the Gulf. Each fresh turn in the road disclosed views of the -most enchanting character, saving where the beauty of the landscape -was marred by the unsightly presence of an immense gang of _forzati_, -or galley slaves, working at the repairs of the roadway. On our right -arose the bare volcanic hill of 1538, with the vine-covered mountains -embosoming the once dismal Avernus, now famed for the excellence of its -trout, whilst sky-larks, and others of the feathered tribe, “warble -o’er” it with impunity. Beneath us, Procida and Ischia, rising from the -blue and motionless bosom of the bay, glittered in the noon-day sun. - -A little bye-road leads to the lake and the Grotto of the Sybil, a -spot deservedly celebrated by Virgil, in _his_ day, but now infested -by a lot of lazy fellows, who gain their livelihood by showing the -subterranean chambers of the rock. Here we fell in with a party of our -fair country-women, who for the last half-hour had been splashing about -under-ground, in the brawny grasp of these uncouth ruffians, stifled -with the smoke of torches, and sorely frightened at the echoing sound -of the dark waters through which they had been hurried. It is needless -to add that they had _seen_ nothing, and indeed their report of the -expedition was so very far from tempting us, that we regained our -carriage with what haste we could. - -Within a quarter of a mile of this spot, in the face of a high cliff -overhanging the road, is another remarkable cavern, forming the -entrance to a series of hot springs. Owing to the heat pervading -the several corridors, which increases in intensity the farther you -penetrate inwards, we found it impossible to get any great distance, -but the old fellow in charge, who seemed to have sweated himself -down almost to a skeleton, took in with him a couple of raw eggs, -and returned with them very nicely boiled! not at all appearing to -mind having undergone a similar process in his own person. We agreed, -however, that the poor old man had well (not to say _honestly_) earned -the trifling present we gave him, and begging him not to expose himself -to the risk of catching cold, by showing us out into the scorching -sun, we left him to his eggs and _dripping_. And now we fondly hoped -that we had seen the last phenomenon of this sulphureous district; -but no, we were again mistaken. On making our exit from Nero’s ovens, -we were escorted by a party of juvenile exhibitors down to the margin -of the sea, where, forcing our hands through the cold water into the -sand beneath, we found _it_ also at boiling point! This, with the -distribution of a few _grani_, closed the entertainments of the morning. - -On reaching Baiæ, we deemed it advisable to make a call at its little -road-side Osteria, where we lunched on a queer-coloured omelette, and -some Capri wine, our table being spread in a little raised gallery -outside the house. From hence the view over the bay was very lovely, so -much so indeed, that we were loth to quit the spot, and decided upon -finishing our day’s ramble in exploring the ruins hard by, and climbing -the hills above us, for the sake of a more extended prospect. In the -cool of the evening we returned to Naples. - -Being now anxious to proceed towards Rome, I determined that the last -night but one of my stay at Naples should be devoted to the ascent of -Vesuvius. Three of us quitted the city at dusk in a carriage, which -was engaged to take us to Resina, and there await our return. Old -François bore us company, in order to take care of our provisions -and over-coats, which are both essential to the comfort of the -undertaking. By the time we arrived at the little hostelry, where our -vehicle was to give place to a set of saucy mules, it was quite dark, -and the disposition of the little party, as we equipped ourselves by -torch-light in the court-yard, formed a striking picture. We took -plenty of guides, more perhaps than were necessary, but there is -nothing like being upon the safe side, and sufficient light is a great -desideratum whilst picking your way in the dead of night, over the -execrable road worn amid the broken masses of lava and scoriæ, which -cover the base of the mountain. A few hours of weary riding, of which -the monotony was only broken by the stumbling of some sleepy guide, -and consequent extinction of his torch, or by our own exclamations -of surprise and wonder, as a more than ordinary shower of stones was -discharged with a rushing noise from the still distant crater, brought -us to the little halting-place, called the Hermitage. The night was -bitterly cold, and there was a considerable breeze stirring, so that -we hailed the welcome shelter with a shout of pleasure, and jumping -off our mules, were soon extended on the homely couches in its little -supper-room, whilst François busied himself in boiling a dozen or -two of eggs. I was so tired by the rough jolting pace of the animal -that had fallen to my lot, that I was no sooner seated than I sank -into sleep. My companions, however, had possessed themselves of the -visitors’ book, replete, as usual, with all manner of absurdities, and -their merriment effectually spoilt my nap. - -Our supper finished, we again summonsed our guides, who armed us each -with an iron-shod pole, and thus equipped, we commenced the long -up-hill walk, which leads to the more immediate base of the mountain. -It required extreme caution to avoid coming in contact with the blocks -of broken lava, and as we neared the steeper ground, we discovered -that we had a severe task to accomplish, the flaring beacon above -shedding upon us, at intervals, a faint bluish light, reminding us -most unpleasantly of the amount of labour we had still to undergo. -My guide now took hold of one end of the pole, bidding me to hold on -tight at the other, and in this way we scrambled over a mile or more of -outrageously large cinder-heaps, among which I pitched and floundered -about in a way that threatened to dislocate every joint in my body. All -this while we were rapidly ascending (barring the many falls we got,) -and daylight began to break upon us as we approached the outer edge of -the crater. Hearing a sort of joyous shout from the advanced guard of -our party, I made a desperate stagger onwards, and fell suddenly into a -charming little gully between two enormous cinders. Never did rest upon -a feather-bed appear more welcome, than did mine at that moment upon -the rugged spot where I had fallen. My attentive guide now approached -his flaring torch to within six inches of my face, and finding that I -was in a state of profuse perspiration, he insisted upon putting me on -my legs again, promising me a fair time for recruiting a little further -on. To have suffered me to lie there, would indeed have been a mistaken -kindness. - -I now joined the rest of my party, and found that we were at the -summit, or in other words, on a level with the internal surface of -the crater, leaving only the edge of the basin to be surmounted. The -glorious spectacle which now greeted us, was one which we must ever -remember. From the cone, there poured forth a continuous stream of -fire, with every now and then a terrific discharge of red-hot stones, -bursting upwards with a fearful rushing sound. This treble, if I may so -term it, was accompanied by a rumbling bass like thunder, from the very -bowels of the mountain, forming a combination of sounds wonderfully -grand and awful. The red-hot masses of lava fell for the most part -upon the outer surface of the cone, from which we were distant about a -furlong, and rolled downwards into the crater. We were of course upon -the windward side of Vesuvius, a precaution always borne in mind by the -guides. As it was, some of the stones fell very near us, whenever the -wind shifted to an opposite quarter, which was often the case, and at -such times, their clatter as they fell upon the surface of the crater, -was sufficiently alarming. - -As soon as daylight had fairly dawned, we ventured upon the sea of -hot lava which lay before us, sufficiently encrusted and cooled at -the surface, to admit of our doing so with safety, though the placing -of one’s feet required care, as any slip on our parts might have -been attended with unpleasant consequences. Every now and then we -had to cross some narrow fissure in the molten lava, produced by the -contraction of the surface. Into these we thrust our poles and sticks, -which came out again in a blaze. Being disgusted with the heat and -sulphurous odours which assailed us on all sides, we were meditating -a return to the point from whence we had started, when a change in -the wind sent a shower of combustibles so alarmingly near us, that we -retreated as quickly as we could, scrambling and falling about among -the uncouth masses of lava, in a manner that under other circumstances, -would have been highly amusing. In the present case, however, _sauve -qui peut_, seemed the order of the day, and no one looked back to help -his less fortunate companion. - -At the edge of the crater we sat down to rest ourselves, preparatory -to once more descending to the level of our fellow-mortals. I had, in -my ignorance, supposed that we should return by the same path which -we had taken in making the ascent, and was therefore surprised when -our guides conducted us to the top of an immense cinder-shoot, looking -like the combined siftings of all the cinders we had ever seen. Having -deliberately given us our instructions, guide No. 1 made a sort of -plunge forward, and with one single gigantic stride, cleared a space -of some twenty feet of ground, and repeating this novel species of -step, was presently out of hearing. No. 2 followed in his wake, and -we after him, and once fairly started, pulling up was a difficult -matter. After near a quarter of a mile of this work, I became aware of -something wrong in the region of my boots, which had long been filled -with fine cinders, productive of much uneasiness. There was no help -for it however. Downwards we all went, with a gradually accelerating -motion, and I was beginning to calculate on the certainty of losing -my equilibrium in the course of another dozen strides or so, when I -was suddenly brought up hard and fast against the broad back of one of -the guides, and congratulated by my companions upon my safe arrival. -Now for the first time I was able to look upwards, and certainly was -greatly astonished at the quantity of ground we had traversed in -so short a space of time. Here we emptied our shoes of the cinders -accumulated in our progress, but as for myself, I was spared half -the trouble of this operation, by finding the ample calf of one of -my Maltese boots, lodged at my knee-cap, having been separated from -the corresponding portion, now transformed into a shoe, by the -unfair ordeal to which it had been subjected. As we had descended by -a more distant part of the mountain, our walk to the Hermitage was -proportionably longer, and I believe we were all heartily wearied -by our nocturnal expedition. The mule-ride back to Resina seemed -interminably long, and it was only after a warm-bath and an interval -of refreshing sleep, that I could overcome the effects of my unwonted -exertions. - -Having engaged a berth in the “Mongibello” steam-packet, for Civita -Vecchia, I got my passport properly signed, and repaired on board, -taking care to see that my portmanteau was carefully consigned to -the hold. This done, I stole away to my berth to secure a nap, and -avoid the bustle and confusion of starting, and was already busily -dreaming of cinders and lava, when I was rudely awakened and summonsed -before a party of police on deck, to answer to my name, which had been -repeatedly called without eliciting any reply. This formality over, I -turned in once more, and at ten o’clock the next morning found myself -in the harbour of Civita Vecchia. At the Dogana here, my effects were -_plombés_, and again had my passport to undergo a visè, whilst my -pocket contributed its mite to the coffers of his Holiness the Pope. - -I found a diligence about to start for Rome, and had just time to -swallow a hot omelette, before squeezing myself in with the conductor -in front. This was a highly amusing fellow, and although I could -scarcely put together ten words of Italian, we managed to keep up a -tolerably animated conversation. He was particularly pleased with -my Egyptian sword, which he insisted on keeping constantly drawn, -flourishing it now and then out of the open window, to intimidate -certain imaginary banditti, at times skirmishing with the driver aloft, -who showed fight with his whip-handle. About dusk, we reached the Holy -City. - - - - -CHAPTER XVII. - - THE ROMAN DOUANE--THE HOTEL CESARJ--MEDITATIONS--THE CAFFE GRECO--ITS - OCCUPANTS--MORNING WALK--WINE CARTS--THE RUSPOLI--BELLAMY’S - TOILET--PREPARATIONS FOR THE CERVARO--THE ROBING-ROOM--CHOICE - OF A DRESS--THE LIVERY STABLE--PORTA MAGGIORE--THE TORRE DEI - SCHIAVE--A GRAND REVIEW--THE QUARRIES--INCANTATION TO THE SYBIL--THE - DINNER--RETURN TO ROME. - - -I could scarcely venture to believe, as I stepped out of the diligence -in the court-yard of the dogana at Rome, that I had at length reached -the spot, which of all others I had most wished to visit, the golden -land of my earliest imaginations. My first impulse was to rush in the -dark to St. Peter’s, and I should possibly have acted upon it, had -not a civil functionary belonging to the customs, suddenly dissipated -my romance, by a request that I would hand out my keys and open my -_baullo_. After a loose inspection of my worldly effects, my new -friend shouldered the portmanteau, and begged to know the place of my -destination, a question somewhat difficult to answer, inasmuch as I -was unacquainted with the name of any hotel, and for all I knew, with -any individual of my own species in the city. Seeing that I hesitated, -my _douanier_ hinted that the “_Cesarj_” was at hand, where I might at -least stay until I found one more suited to my taste. To the “Cesarj” -therefore, we went. Arrived in my little bed-room, _au quatriéme_, and -fatigued with the dusty journey in the diligence, I rang the bell and -ordered some coffee. “We furnish nothing,” said my landlord, who had -himself obeyed the summons, “but a bed and breakfast, and the house -does not boast of a kitchen, but at the corner of the square hard by, -the Signor will find a good _trattoria_.” The old adage of “when at -Rome,” &c., occurred forcibly to my remembrance, and although somewhat -disposed to grumble at a mode of treatment so unusual in a hotel, -I groped my way out to the eating-house, resolving to seek a more -hospitable roof on the morrow. - -In the digestive interval which followed my meal, it occurred to me, -that I might as well organize some plan for the best employment of -the time I intended to devote to Rome and its neighbourhood, for at -this time I had no idea that my stay would be so long protracted, as -afterwards proved to be the case. That I ought, in fact, to look round -at the various hotels, in the hope of falling in with the name of -some quarantine acquaintance, or quondam fellow-traveller, who would -bear me company, and give me the benefit of his experience. I have a -peculiar aversion to the _valets de place_, who infest large inns, -and an antipathy also to being seen gaping about in a foreign town, -with a rosy “Murray” in my hand, which, albeit the _ne plus ultra_ of -hand-books, entails upon every unfortunate possessor who may appeal to -it in the crowded highway, a host of petty annoyances, and in Italy -more especially, stamps him at once _Inglese_, fair game for all -kinds of imposition. Much of this might be avoided by the adoption of -some less conspicuous binding: one of my friends, who had taken the -precaution to ink his covers all over, attributed thereto the saving of -some considerable quantity of petty cash, during a two months’ sojourn -in Rome. - -But to return. As I sat musing in the _trattoria_, I recollected with -much satisfaction, that an artistical friend, whose acquaintance I -had made in Egypt, had mentioned a certain Caffé Greco, as a likely -place to find him in, on my arrival in Rome, and as it was not much -past seven, I resolved immediately to begin my inquiries. One of -the waiters showed me the way to this retreat, which is in the Via -Condotti, and appears a favourite place of resort of artists of every -nation. Making my way through a thick smoke to the bar or counter, I -inquired if one Bellamy, an Englishman, were within, and was answered -by an affirmative nod of the head, from a tall man engaged in filling, -with black coffee, some two dozen or so of small cups. This operation, -though simple enough, was performed with much dexterity by a rotatory -motion of the arm, without breaking the continuous stream of liquid -Mocha, which flowed from the enormous tin biggin. In accordance with -the motion of the man’s head, which pointed to an inner room, I found -myself in an atmosphere still denser than that I had just quitted, -whilst my ears were assailed with a furious cross-fire of high Dutch. -From this I emerged into a third room, where, though a smoker myself, I -almost gasped for breath. Here I could see nothing whatever, save the -light of a lamp suspended from the ceiling, which looked dim and red, -like the sun on a foggy morning in London, but a rapid conversation in -the mother-tongue, betokened the presence of sundry and divers of my -countrymen, whose forms gradually developed themselves, in proportion -as my eyes became accustomed to the atmosphere. - -Touching the waiter, as he passed me in one of his journeys to and -fro, I asked for coffee and a cigar, and proceeded at leisure to -contemplate the group before me. Had it not been for the use of my -native language, I should certainly not have guessed that I was in the -company of Englishmen, inasmuch as they were for the most part, dressed -in a costume varying _in toto_, save as to the nether integuments, -from any I had previously seen. The chief speaker, who seemed to be -expatiating upon some article in Galignani, of which he held a copy -in his hand, was shrouded, like the rest, in a loose paletôt of black -velvet, partly open at the sleeves, and relieved by the least glimpse -of Irish at the arms and collar. A handsome beard and moustache, -black as the coat, left but little of his features visible, and their -obscurity was still farther increased, by a black hat of felt, with -a brim of extraordinary dimensions, slightly turned up in front, -but partaking essentially of the form of a sou’-wester behind. The -rest of the company were dressed pretty much in the same way, the -countenance of each seeming to take its cast from the beard, of which -there was a variety of all forms and colours. By the time I had made -my observations, I discovered that my friend Bellamy was not of the -party, and entering into conversation with some one near me, learned -that he was not likely to make his appearance that evening. Having -obtained the number of his address in the Via Felice, I paid my score -and returned to the hotel, where I dreamed about black beards and -broad-brimmed hats, till a late hour in the morning. - -The sun was high, when I rose and threw open my window, and the blue -sky and freshness of the air seemed so inviting, that I decided upon -dispensing with my host’s promised breakfast, preferring rather to take -my chance at some neighbouring _caffé_. Leaving the inn, I shortly -emerged into a square, that of the Colonna, and was more than half -inclined to refresh myself with some of the cooling fruits and drinks, -displayed around the fountain in front of the column, under tasty -little arbours of evergreens. Now I entered the Corso, already filled -with busy people passing to and fro, and noisy enough with its throng -of jingling hackney carriages and wine carts. These latter are very -picturesque looking vehicles, and the carrettieri seem perpetually -under the influence of their own juicy freights, so lazily do they -dangle their legs, and loll away their days, each under the shade of -his own vine or fig-tree. - -Sauntering onwards, I discovered the Caffé Ruspoli, once a palace, -where, in a cool garden, amid lemon-trees and fountains, I enjoyed -my cream and Galignani, and had moreover, the good fortune to make -acquaintance with a countryman of the name of Savill, who, upon -learning that I was a stranger in Rome, politely offered to shew me -some of the most interesting parts of the city. My new friend wore -the sombre dress of, and looked every inch an artist, and had already -been several years resident in Rome, speaking its language with -singular fluency. He seemed indeed, so thoroughly _au fait_ at all -that was going on, that I hailed with pleasure the prospect of a more -intimate acquaintance with him, and having finished our breakfast at -the Ruspoli, we proceeded together to the lodgings of Bellamy in the -Via Felice. The house in which our friend had taken up his quarters, -was of great extent, and elegant external appearance, and I was rather -disappointed, on ascending the first two portions of its well-like -stone stair-case, to observe that each floor was subdivided into many -small sets of chambers. To every door was attached the card of the -occupant, though there was barely sufficient light for deciphering -the faint microscopic italics of the present day. Our announcement -of “_amici_,” at that belonging to Bellamy, was responded to by him -in person, half-dressed in so odd a style, that he seemed in the act -of rehearsing for a masquerade. He had managed to squeeze himself -into a pair of light blue pantaloons, garnished with a double row -of bright steel buttons, whilst his legs were encased in enormous -jack-boots, armed with long spurs. Seeing our look of surprise, he -hastily completed his toilet with a somewhat tarnished lace jacket -and courier’s cap, regarding himself at the same time with evident -satisfaction, in a small glass upon the table. - -Savill now appeared suddenly to remember what had hitherto -unaccountably escaped him, that it wanted but two days to the _Cervaro -Fest_, or annual fête of the Roman artists, and I was speedily -informed that my arrival in the Holy City at the present moment, was -most opportune, inasmuch as I should be enabled to assist at that -ceremony,--“We’ll go immediately,” said Bellamy, “and put your name -down on the list, and can then make choice of a dress,” for it seemed -pretty fully decided upon that I should go in costume. My scruples, -on the score of not being sufficiently qualified to join the body -were speedily set aside by the assurance that my entrance fee of -five pauls, would effectually silence any questions that might be -raised. Repairing, therefore, to the Caffé Greco, I was introduced -to the president of the fête, a German artist of celebrity, who very -politely informed me, upon receiving my contribution, that I was -thereby entitled to as much wine and cold sausage as I could swallow -in one day. The Germans appear the chief movers in the affair, and -the _Cervaro Fest_ originated with a few individuals of that nation, -who, years gone by, had a custom of repairing annually to some ancient -quarries in the neighbourhood of Rome, where, with their wine and -_salame_, they would pic-nic on the grass, and sing some of their -native melodies, returning to the city at night-fall. By degrees, -however, their party increased, and being joined by artists of other -nations, eventually became so numerous, that it was deemed necessary -to elect a president, and frame rules for the preservation of order. -A club was also established in connexion with the Cervaro, called the -Ponte Molle,[18] which held its meetings once a week, and now forms one -of the most amusing of the attractions of modern Rome. But more of this -hereafter. - -On quitting the Caffé Greco, a walk of half-an-hour brought us to a -species of robing-room, in the immediate neighbourhood of the Argentina -theatre, where Carnival and stage costumes of every description are -let out on hire. I found it difficult to make a selection, but at -length, from among a heap of miscellaneous rubbish, managed to rescue -a dress, which the meanest bog-trotter would have scorned to accept. -So far gone indeed was it, that the shopman refused to make any charge -for its hire, merely expressing a wish that I would return it if did -not absolutely fall to pieces. It cost me a good two hours’ work in -my bed-room, at the “Cesarj,” to sew on such buttons as were wanting, -and stitch up some of the rents in the coat and knee-breeches, besides -having to convert some old boots into a pair of high-lows, which, with -the addition of a well-battered hat, imparted a very satisfactory -degree of finish and reality to my _tout ensemble_. The waiter, who -entered my room whilst I was rehearsing, seemed to imagine that I -was some fellow in the act of plundering the hotel, for I had some -difficulty in restraining him from giving the alarm. When satisfied of -my identity, he burst into such an exaggerated fit of laughter, that I -was quite convinced my appearance was all I intended. - -The next day Bellamy accompanied me to the English livery-stables, -as it was necessary that I should provide myself with some sort -of a horse. My companions having previously picked out the best -they could get, I found that I must either put up with a wretched -animal, discarded by the rest, or go on foot. As its appearance was -not ill-suited to the character I had assumed, I paid an earnest of -half-a-scudo to the ostler, and begged him to give the poor beast an -extra feed or two, by way of fitting him to undergo a day’s work. - -The following morning, that of April 27th, proved bright and sunshiny, -although sundry suspicious-looking clouds, which floated across the -small patch of blue sky commanded by my bed-room window, seemed to -threaten an occasional shower. It was striking seven as I finished my -toilet, and throwing my long bernous cloak over all, save the ragged -hat, I soon reached the stables, where I found Bellamy waiting for me, -already mounted. We halted for a few minutes at a small shop in the -Via Felice, to swallow some coffee, and then made the best of our way -outside the city-walls, to the Porta Maggiore, where a numerous crowd -of idlers attested the presence of something out of the common way. As -we came up, the president of the Cervaro, in the midst of a group of a -hundred or more artists, was in the act of ascending his triumphal car, -a four-wheeled waggon of the country, drawn by two milk-white oxen, and -ornamented with evergreens, and appropriate banners and emblems. - -We now formed into something like a procession, the president taking -the lead, at a pace more suited to a funeral than an occasion of -rejoicing. On getting into motion, the _coup d’œil_ was extremely -interesting, and of a very amusing character. It was with difficulty -that we could get on at all, so hemmed in were we on all sides, by the -crowds of Romans and country-people who had come to see us start. We -made a sort of forced march to the Torre dei Schiavi, a ruined temple -at a couple of stones’ throw from the road, and nearly three miles -from the gates. Here we consigned our horses and donkeys to the care -of some ragged urchins, who had purposely preceded us, and had just -time to avail ourselves of the partial shelter afforded by the ruin, -when a heavy shower came on. Until now, breakfast had been overlooked -by the majority of us, so a quarter-cask of red wine was broached, and -slices of _prosciutto_, or uncooked ham, with hard-boiled eggs and -salame, were handed round by certain of the artists, who had enrolled -themselves as waiters for the day, thinking it on such occasions, by -no means derogatory to wait upon the rest. The appointment, in fact, -appears to be much coveted, probably either from the novelty attending -“office,” or from the knowledge of a most convenient proximity to the -provision-baskets. Cigars and pipes were now kindled, and some of the -Germans sang in unison an illustrative song, composed by the president, -printed copies of it being at the same time handed round for such as -chose to accept them. - -The shower being now over, there was a grand review of the mounted -forces, these on donkeys forming the front rank, with the horsemen -behind. We were put through sundry evolutions, which were utterly -confounded by the stupidity of the former, which sidled, backed, and -turned tail, and caused the greatest confusion, whilst many of those on -horseback got awkward falls, from the collisions that were continually -taking place. My animal, which was so very lame, that he had appeared -to possess only three legs when I left the stable, had, now that he was -a little warmed, recovered the proper number. The unwonted bustle, and -strange colours around him, had made him so wild and unruly, that I -lost all command of the bridle, and unwillingly cut some extraordinary -capers under the very nose of the president, who was issuing as gravely -as he could, his orders of “_recht_, _links_, _züzammen_,” &c.[19] A -sudden command of “_vorwarts_” seemed far more to his taste, as he -instantly turned tail and bolted for the road, where he pulled up of -his own accord. The others came up shortly after, and we then formed -into something like order again. - -As the cavalcade trotted along, I had leisure to scrutinize the various -groups, and a more motley collection of outrè figures, I think I never -saw. First, came a huge French gen-d’arme, on a most diminutive donkey, -armed with a tin breast-plate and backpiece, and a long wooden sword, -with which ever and anon he belaboured his unwilling beast. Next to him -a Bedouin Arab with naked legs, followed by a nondescript in a cocked -hat and a blouse. Now, a well-mounted Spanish grandee rushed past, -resplendent with foil and tinsel, giving chase to a ragged Irishman, -with tattered hat and uplifted shillelagh, whose manner of sitting his -white pony, told of other things than the brush and pallette. - -A half-hour’s gallop across the Campagna, after quitting the high road, -brought us to the Grottoes of the Cervaro, or deserted quarries, from -which the stones of the Coliseum were obtained. They form romantic -caves, and serve admirably for the annual picture of the artists. The -adjacent meadow was already dotted with parties, who had preceded us -to witness our arrival: carriages were drawn up in a line, the horses -untethered, as at a race-course, whilst locomotive wine stalls, with -their ample flasks of sparkling _rosso_, and tables laden with coarse -bread, and the never failing salame, added to the gaity of the scene. -Giving our horses in charge to the ragamuffins in waiting, we followed -our president in great solemnity, into one of the very darkest of the -caves, where a sort of opening incantation to the _genus loci_ was to -be delivered. The cavern was speedily filled, and it was with some -difficulty that I managed to secure a footing on the loose rubbish that -partially filled the opening. In the back-ground was a large cauldron -of burning spirit, which betrayed the extent of the cave, shedding a -dull light upon the faces of the innermost spectators, and revealing -the presence of many ladies. Silence being enjoined, the incantation, -in German, was audibly and impressively read, and its conclusion -followed up by a loud report as of thunder, when the spirit of the -cave appeared, and stirring up the contents of the cauldron, suddenly -vanished in a blue flame. And now broke upon the ear one of those -delightful German melodies, at its commencement, low, searching, and -solemn; but wild and gleeful at the end. The effect it produced was -extraordinary, and not to be easily forgotten. A few startling sobs, -were, ’ere half uttered, drowned in a loud hurrah, and in another -minute, we had all dispersed in different directions to prepare for -dinner. - -For this part of the ceremony, an airy but covered portion of the -quarry was selected, and the ground thickly strewed with fresh-gathered -leaves, the benches and tables being rudely formed of loose masses of -stone. Each man seated himself where he listed, and wine, and cold -viands were plentifully supplied by the attendant ganymedes. Our repast -was soon over, for our seats were none of the softest, and we were glad -to rise as soon as etiquette would permit, and eat our salad standing. -This was served, ready-made, and carried round in large trays, like -those used by our butchers in London, and as no forks were allowed us, -each man put in his hand, and helped himself to an oily mouthful as -it passed him. Then followed speeches from the president and others, -in honour of the occasion; some healths were drank and responded to, -and the strangers present invited to partake; and then our leader, -with a mallet and chisel, proceeded to record on the smooth face of -a rock, already bearing the mementos of many former years, the date -of the present “Olimpiade.” This seemed the signal for a general -dispersion, and the whole body emerged into the sunny fields above, to -amuse themselves as best they might. All sorts of running and jumping -matches were engaged in by such as felt inclined, and an extempore -horse-race was got up by some of my countrymen, but as I did not care -to place too much confidence in my (barely) _four_-footed acquaintance -of a day, I tightened his girths, and took the road towards Rome, -greatly amused by the “Cervaro.” - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[18] So called from the bridge over the Tiber, about a mile outside the -Porta del Popolo. - -[19] “Right, left, together,” &c. - - - - -CHAPTER XVIII. - - THE “PONTE MOLLE” CLUB--TECHNICAL ALPHABET--MOCCOLETTI--THE - BLACK BOARD--ELECTION OF CANDIDATES--THE ILLUSTRATED - CHORUS--HARMONIES--CHANGE OF DOMICILE--THE VIA SISTINA--THE - PINCIAN PROMENADE--TRASTEVERINI--THE FRENCH ACADEMY--HIGH ART - AND ITS VOTARIES--ROMAN MODELS--PIFFERARI--PIETRO POMBO--THE VIA - MARGUTTA--L---- AND HIS PAINTING--EXTRAORDINARY MODEL--PICTURES AND - STUDIOS. - - -Connected with the Cervaro Fest, is a humorous artistical club[20] -called the “_Ponte Molle_,” which also owes its origin to the Germans. -The weekly meetings of this Roman society of odd-fellows, are held in -the Palazzo Fiano, at the rear of the “Belli Arti” coffee-house in the -Corso, and are of so curious a nature, that although I cannot hope to -do them justice, I shall not be satisfied to let them go in silence. I -also presume that as I know but little of the rules or regulations by -which the club is governed, I can reveal nothing which may not be given -to the public. I was introduced by an English artist, on an occasion -when two candidates were to be initiated, and on entering a large room -on the first floor, found myself in the presence of a hundred or more -people of all countries, chiefly, if not entirely, artists, who seemed -by the remains still scattered before them, to have just finished their -supper. The tables were laid out round three sides of the room in the -form of the letter _E_, the chairman’s seat being filled by Herr ----, -the president of the late Cervaro: before him lay an auctioneer’s -hammer, and a gigantic speaking trumpet, whilst behind, upon the wall, -there hung a large black board. - -We had no sooner taken our seats, and called for some sort of -refreshment, than an individual on the right of the chair, nearly -deafened us by an announcement in German, which he bellowed through -the trumpet, to the effect that some ceremony was about to take -place, and on looking towards the chairman, I found that he held in -his hand an enormous illustrated alphabet, of which the first page -presented a coloured sketch, bearing allusion to the letters, great -_A_ and little _a_, printed in large characters underneath. This -exhibition was accompanied by a German rhyme, chanted by the company -in chorus, each man standing on his chair, whilst the whole of the -alphabet was expounded.[21] Then some one distributed to each person -present, about four or five inches of wax taper, or _moccoletti_, and -with these was also handed round a printed song. At a sign from the -chairman, the tapers were ignited, each individual tied his napkin -round his head, and forming into single file, promenaded around the -room, singing in unison a melody written in honour of the “Ponte -Molle.” The _moccoletti_ seemed of service in enhancing the _outrè_ -appearance of such as aimed at making themselves as ridiculous as -possible, for I noticed one tall fellow with a row of a dozen or more -stuck round the brim of his sombrero, whilst another had attached a -piece to the end of his nose. At the conclusion of the recitation, -we resumed our places, and the wine bottles being replenished, the -chairman and others sung a few songs, whilst preparations were making -for the election of the two fresh candidates, who were shortly ushered -in amid a deafening shout of applause, and stationed under the ominous -black board before alluded to. The only qualification, which to me as -a stranger, appeared necessary to ensure admission to the club, was -that of being able happily to illustrate upon the board, the solution -of some knotty enigmatical query, propounded by the chairman. If an -architect or painter, the candidate would be required to sketch some -device appertaining to his art, whilst a sculptor would be expected -to exercise his skill upon a lump of wet clay, from which he would -probably produce some grotesque figure that would set the room in a -roar. Be this as it may, the parties on the present occasion, receiving -at the hands of the president, the decoration of the order of the -Bajocco,[22] were declared amid much laughter, to have acquitted -themselves to the satisfaction of their judges, and to have “_passed -the Ponte Molle_,” and then, the hieroglyphs having been obliterated, -another part of the evening’s performance was gone through, which I -was enabled more readily to understand, and will, therefore, endeavour -to describe. The chief performer therein, was as usual the chairman. -Marking upon the board with chalk, a short line, thus ----, he -inquired-- - - “Ist das nicht der kürz ünd lang?” - -to which all responded,-- - - “Ya! das ist der kürz ünd lang.” - -Then adding a second line, his diagram assumed this form -----/--, with the query. - - “Ist das nicht ein Schnitzelbang?” - - (Tutti.) “Ya! das ist ein Schnitzelbang!” - - (Chorus.) “Schnitzelbang, kürz ünd lang - Eine Schöne, eine schöne - Eine Schöne Schnitzelbang.” - -Then again with the chalk - - “Ist das nicht der Ponte Molle?” - - (Tutti.) “Ya! das ist der Ponte Molle!” - -Adding some dots thus: - - “Ist es nicht so gar zü volle?” - - (Tutti.) “Ya! es ist so gar zü volle!” - - (Chorus.) “Ponte Molle, gar zü volle” - “Schnitzelbang, kürz ünd lang” - “Eine Schöne, &c.” - -Then a little mountain, thus: - - “Ist das nicht der Monte Cavo?” - - (Tutti.) “Ya! das ist der Monte Cavo!” - -Adding a little figure on one side of it - - “Ist das nicht der kleine ‘Bravo?’”[23] - - (Tutti.) “Ya! das ist der kleine ‘Bravo!’” - - (Chorus.) “Monte Cavo, kleine Bravo” - “Ponte Molle, gar zü volle” - “Schnitzelbang, kürz ünd lang” - “Eine schöne,” &c. - -Then a little figure with a cocked hat: - - “Ist das nicht Napoleon?” - - (Tutti.) “Ya! das ist Napoleon!” - -followed by a few strokes in his rear, intended to represent a city, -though they were quite as much like an old comb: - - “Der bei Leipsig laüft davon!” - - (Tutti.) “Der bei Leipsig laüft davon!” - - (Chorus.) “Napoleon, laüft davon” - “Monte Cavo, kleine Bravo” - “Ponte Molle, gar zü volle” - “Schnitzelbang, kürz ünd lang” - “Eine schöne, eine schöne” - “Eine schöne Schnitzelbang.” - -and so on through a variety of similar illustrations, like a -modification of “The house that Jack built,” until he had well nigh -filled his board. These over, the chairman divested himself of a -rat-catcher looking belt which he had worn throughout the evening, and -giving a lusty tap upon the table with his hammer, knocked himself -down for a song, of which he also acquitted himself admirably. Several -others followed, one gentleman, a Swiss, favouring us with a genuine -Vaterlander, in which the beautiful _jodeln_ was charmingly introduced. -On the whole, the harmonic portion of the Ponte Molle was by far the -most gratifying, and I departed with my friend, much amused with what I -had seen and heard, although almost at a loss to comprehend any portion -of the evening’s exhibition. - -[Illustration: ARTISTS ON THE PINCIAN.] - -Being most anxious to quit the comfortless four-pair-back of the -“Hotel Cesarj,” I consulted with my friend Savill, and by him was -recommended to some rooms in the Via Sistina, an airy street, near the -Trinità de’ Monti, at one end of the Pincian hill. This neighbourhood -had been chosen by Nicholas Poussin, whose house was next door to my -new quarters, whilst that once occupied by Claude, was immediately -opposite to me. Finding the apartment vacant, I engaged it forthwith, -and my padrone undertook to get some old woman to make my bed, and -bring me every morning a jug of hot water. The rooms proved very -comfortable and sufficiently quiet, and I had moreover, the advantage -of a shady garden, overlooking the street. Close to me on the right, -was the Church of the Trinità de’ Monti, which contains the wonderful -frescoes by Daniello of Volterra. A few minutes’ walk further on, would -bring me to the Pincian, the favourite promenade of the Romans, who -ride and drive round it in their badly-varnished, heavy carriages, -with an assumption of _ton_, which often amuses their visitors. Here, -however, there is no veto against hackney carriages, and the bracing -air and fine prospects of the Monte Pincio, are common to the patrician -and the _basso-ceto_. On Sundays the place is thronged with pedestrians -of all classes. Groups of Trasteverini, the proud descendants of the -ancient Romans, then venture hither, in their sky-blue pantaloons and -short jackets, with low crowned white hats of the very longest nap. -Their lasses accompany them, dressed in gowns of the gayest hues, their -long hair plaited into all sorts of shapes, and secured by the silver -spadino, sometimes a much less innocent instrument in the hands of the -hot-blooded maidens of Rome.[24] These are attracted to the Pincian -solely by the desire of seeing and being seen--their haunt after mass -on the Sabbath being the Osterie, outside the gates of the city, where -they will spend the whole day in dancing, and regale themselves on sour -wine and uncooked ham. - -On the Pincio stands the French Academy, whose beautiful gardens, -replete with statues, fountains, and shady _boschetti_, are the delight -of all romantic dispositions. From hence the eye ranges over the -extensive grounds of the Borghese and Poniatowski, dotted here and -there by an occasional villa, and thickly wooded with stone-pine and -cypress, whilst the distance embraces views of the Soracte and Velino, -and the broken range of the Sabine mountains. - -I had now made the acquaintance of many artists, chiefly through the -kind introductions of Bellamy and Savill, and began to feel an interest -in the sublime arts, of which, until now, I had scarce believed myself -capable. A great deal of my time was spent in their studii, or at the -various galleries in their company, on which occasions, I was forced -into the hearing of so many arguments and disquisitions upon “high -art,” and “art” in all its ramifications, that I was at last fairly -compelled to take up the pencil in self-defence; and the resolution -was no sooner formed and expressed, than I got the offer of a table -in the studio of a friend, and what was of far greater value to me, -the opportunity of benefiting by his advice, during certain initiatory -studies. Poor R----, who was so shortly afterwards taken away from -us, will be in the remembrance of all who knew Rome and its English -artists at the time of which I write. His career, though short, was -a sufficiently brilliant one, the productions of his pencil being -justly admired, and had he been spared, there can be little doubt, but -that he would have risen to eminence in the profession. He it was who -undertook, with the kindness for which he was remarkable, to guide my -unpractised hand through the tedious routine of a commencement in what -was to me almost a fresh career; and though at the time I frequently -chafed at the monotonous detail it was necessary to wade through, I am -satisfied that the system was a sound one, and ultimately repaid me the -trouble. - -As R---- mostly chose for his pictures, such subjects as were -illustrative of the manners of the Roman peasantry, I had frequent -opportunities of drawing from the best models. Grazia, Chiaruccia, and -the Pifferari were among those who most suited his peculiar style, and -as they were always willing to talk as long as we would sit to hear -them, I soon picked up a tolerable smattering of Italian. The faces of -these and other Roman models, must be familiar to most who frequent -our modern galleries and exhibitions, and although the likeness may -not in all cases be preserved, some one or other of their peculiar -attributes is sure to reveal them to the practised eye. Who is there, -for instance, that cannot claim acquaintance with the old _Pifferaro_, -in the conical hat, and long white beard, whose face and figure have -been made to play upon canvas nearly every rôle in the vocabulary. In -one and the same apartment of a recent exhibition, I have seen that old -man, jerking his bellows before a Madonna, and assisting his brother -bandits to rifle a travelling carriage in the Pontine Marsh--casting -his net into the Sea of Galilee, and playing at _Morra_ in the -Trastevere! - -[Illustration] - -Perhaps the most amusing of the models, was Pietro Pombo, who made his -appearance with his brother _Pifferari_ on the steps of the Scalinata, -about the beginning of Advent, staying until Christmas was over. Much -of this man’s time was passed in sitting for my friend, who constantly -employed him as a costume model, and Pombo was so tenacious of what he -considered to be his own exclusive right in this respect, that few of -the other Pifferari cared to interfere with him. “Io zono il modello -del Zignorrr,” was his usual asseveration, when any of his brethren -attempted to solicit a few hours’ employment. At eight in the morning, -or thereabouts, he would make his appearance at the studio in the -Via Margutta, saluting us in a voice of the most ultra-mountainous -roughness. “Buon giorno, loro Zignorrr Mossieu,” and then introduce his -little boy and inform us of the state of his health, “Bambino mio, zi -Zignorr: zempre meglio, zempre meglio, zalute mia: zi Zignorrr!” K. an -English artist, having sent for him one morning, and not happening to -be quite ready to commence, motioned him to a seat at the far end of -the room, to wait until he had put a few last touches to some sketch he -was finishing. On looking up a few minutes after, he was thunderstruck -on perceiving Pietro Pombo, and his minute fac-simile, the _Bambino_, -who had divested themselves of their nether garments, fleaing them -with the most impurturbable gravity and assurance. K. was too much -amused to disturb them, but could no longer restrain himself, when the -Pifferaro continued his toilet, by emptying a small bottle of drying -oil on his black and matted locks, by way of Macassar. - -[Illustration] - -The house next door to R----’s, in the Via Margutta, is famous as the -birth-place of a picture which made a good deal of noise in the world. -The particulars I had from an Italian acquaintance, and although it is -possible he may have been _generally_ correct, I will not vouch for the -accuracy of the detail. The painting in question was the production of -Mr. L----, one of the first English artists who took up his abode in -Rome after the Peace, and was at first a simple picture, representing -Joseph and the Virgin. By degrees, however, it became more and more -allegorical, until its original dimensions were found insufficient, -and fresh canvas was added from time to time. L---- now discovered -that the dimensions of his studio forbade the further enlargement of -his subject, inasmuch as they did not keep pace with the development -of his intellectual vagaries, and a proposal was therefore submitted -to the landlord to raise the roof of the house, which was politely -declined. An appeal to sink the floor met with better success, and -now the picture assumed a colossal form; the _padrone_, who had been -admitted to L----’s confidence, and was the only person who had seen -it, declaring it to be _una cosa stupenda_. Such indeed it ought to -have been. Fifty dollars’ worth of ultramarine were swallowed up in -the sky alone, besides a whole barrel of bitumen in the foreground. -The _materièl_ alone cost two hundred pounds a-year, and to meet -this outlay, L---- lived chiefly upon bread and potatoes, whilst the -colourman who supplied him, realized a fortune. - -Among other flights of fancy which the picture exhibited, was that -of a colossal horse suspended in mid-air, and in order to obtain the -most suitable model for his purpose, L---- purchased a genuine dead -animal, which he succeeded in securing in a suitable position, by -attaching tackle to the roof of his studio. This, though a work of -considerable engineering difficulty, was rapidly accomplished by L----, -whose perseverance was a match for any obstacle. At this juncture, he -was compelled to quit Rome for a week or so, and, as his custom was, -carefully locked up his studio, and carried with him the key. He had -not been absent many days, before his more immediate neighbours were -annoyed by an unusual, and by no means agreeable odour, which emanated -from L----’s quarters, and gradually increased to such a degree, that -the good people assembled in dismay, fearful that nothing less than -some foul murder had been perpetrated, whilst L----’s absence was -now for the first time noticed. An application was then made to the -Governor, who happened to be a personal friend of the artist, and -therefore declined any interference. The nuisance increased, and at -length became so unbearable, that a search was instituted, and the -doors ordered to be forced. L---- arrived from the country just as -a file of _carabinieri_ entered the Via Margutta, and had no sooner -learned the reason of their unwonted appearance, than he stationed -himself at the top of his stairs, with a pistol in either hand, -determined to resist to the death, the meditated violation of his -sanctum. But the Governor’s orders were not to be lightly treated, -and L----, finding that delay would avail him nothing, consented to -admit one of the soldiers, selecting the least intellectual-looking of -the lot, in the hope that his stupidity would prevent any revelations -respecting the subject of the picture. No sooner had the poor fellow -passed the threshold, than he fell back and fainted. And now the murder -was out--the model horse had fallen to pieces, and no one could be -found rash enough to approach such a mass of abomination as the carcass -now presented. The helmet of Alonzo the Brave was nothing to it. The -very _facchini_, who are proverbial for their willingness to undertake -any job, however dirty, were in this instance inexorable, and it was -not until L---- had promised them a reward, which their cupidity could -no longer resist, that they consented to remove the body and consign it -to the Tiber. - -The picture was at length finished, and although from certain -peculiarities in its detail, it was not suffered by the Pope to be -publicly exhibited in Rome, it proved, with all its eccentricities, -such a marvellous production, that it eventually found its way to the -gallery in the Winter Palace of the Emperor of Russia, who purchased it -for fifteen hundred pounds. - -On another floor of the same house, in the Via Margutta, is the -studio of the Italian artist V----, justly famed for his pictures -of the chase, and more particularly that of the wild-boar, which he -first hunts down for his amusement, and then transfers to canvas for -his profit. V---- paints every hair with minute distinctness, and is -never better pleased than when his productions are submitted to a -microscopic test, which, to say truth, they will bear at any time. His -anxiety about Landseer was sometimes very amusing, and though he had -heard, and believed, that his rival could paint an animal _asleep_, -he could not be induced to credit his ability to do justice to one _in -motion_, until about a year ago, when he paid a visit to London, where -I met him, just after he had been favoured with a sight of some of our -great artist’s unrivalled pictures. The look of anguish with which he -regarded me, when I reverted to the subject, I shall never forget. In -P----’s studio, among many other valuable pictures, is the Magdalene -of Correggio, which at one time excited so much interest, and caused a -lengthy litigation. Its history is so familiar, that I need not here -enter into it. - -[Illustration] - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[20] The immediate object of the club, is the relief of sick or -distressed artists of any nation, and in order to effect this purpose, -each member pays a trifling annual subscription, whilst on a certain -night in the year, there is a sale by auction, in the club-room, of -sketches and drawings contributed by members, which are knocked down -to the highest bidder. Thus it often happens, that a chance visitor -becomes possessed of the productions of the most eminent artists, -at a cost totally disproportioned to their real value, and which he -might otherwise have been unwilling to purchase. New members pay for -the whole of the wine consumed on the evening of their admission, and -if it should so occur, that no fresh candidate is on the list, this -expense is defrayed by one individual from among the body, who take it -in turns. The election of President is a very interesting ceremony, and -the same person is eligible more than once. Herr W----r, who is not -only an eminent artist, but an accomplished musician, has, I believe, -many times been elected President of the Cervaro Fest, and he it was -who filled the chair of the Ponte Molle, during my visit to Rome. - -[21] I was afterwards informed, that the tendency of the couplets was -at once humorous and satirical, hitting, in rather a severe manner, the -artistical peculiarities of certain men of eminence, as well as of many -then present. - -[22] The celebrated Thorwaldsen held this decoration in such high -estimation, that discarding those which his fame and talents had -procured him in every court of Europe, he presented himself before that -of Denmark, wearing only the solitary and unimposing decoration of the -“Order of the Bajocco.” - -[23] The gentleman here named is well known in Rome, and acted I -believe, at one time as secretary to the Danish sculptor before alluded -to. - -[24] Maria de’ Monti, one of the most popular models of Rome, who had -frequently suffered annoyance from the importunities of a _contadino_, -met him one day in the Piazza Barberini, when the solicitations were -again renewed. Having indignantly rejected his addresses, and received -at the same time, a provoking _schiaffo_, or slap in the face, she -drew the _spadino_ from her hair, and stabbed him in the breast. No -sooner was the blow given, than the irritated girl ran to the French -Academy on the Pincio to seek refuge, it being considered by the models -as a sort of sanctuary. The man died shortly after, and on being -brought before the police, Maria was immediately acquitted on the -score of her youth and previous good character, and in consideration -of the provocation she had received. This specimen of Roman justice -may appear very lax to English minds, and its want of severity can -only be reconciled by the reflection, that the criminal deed was -entirely unpremeditated, and that a blow in the face is regarded by the -irritable Romans, as an unpardonable insult. - - - - -CHAPTER XIX. - - THE “GRECO”--SIGNOR GIOVANNI--FREQUENTERS OF THE - BARCACCIA--PIETRO--THE ROMAN CIGAR--CAFFE DU BONGOUT--“PUNCH - A LA ROMAINE”--ITALIAN EATING-HOUSES--THE LEPRI--OLD - AURELIO--TERRIBILE--ROMAN BILL OF FARE--SWEETS--ENGLISH - ERRORS--DESSERT--THE LEPRI GARDEN--THE “GABBIONE”--ITS - NEIGHBOURHOOD--FRIED FISH--ALESSIO--“UNA BOMBA ALLA CERITO.” - - -As I could get nothing cooked in my new domicile, and do not even -know whether it possessed a kitchen or not, I was compelled to take -my meals at the Caffé and Eating-house. Of course I patronized the -Greco, which was not only close to me in the Via Condotti, but the -resort of most of my artistical friends. Signor Giovanni, its padrone, -a good-humoured old man of eighty, was at one time a waiter in the -establishment, but having married its mistress, may now be seen every -day inside the counter, raking up the mezzi-paoli. The Caffé is also -known by its original name of _Barcaccia_, derived from the adjacent -fountain in the Piazza di Spagna, and was famous during the war, as -the scene of some noisy political meetings. Having been hallowed by -the constant presence of men, whose names can never be lost to fame, -and will be remembered when their works have perished, the marble -tables and well-worn benches of the Greco, possess a charm for the -artist, which no other Caffé in Rome can boast. It opens at four in the -morning, when it is resorted to by the Vetturini, who take their _caffé -rhummeggiata_. After them, about daylight, come the Italian shopkeepers -of the Condotti, who make their early breakfast of chocolate and little -rolls called _chiffa_, in shape like the crescent of Diana. These give -place to the Danish and German artists, men with fierce moustaches -and grizly beards, who dim the grey-light of morning by the clouds of -smoke inseparable from the proper enjoyment of _mischio_[25] and _caffé -latte_. These frequent a middle room, to which they seem to possess an -exclusive right, and there they lounge, all dull and gloomy, sipping -and smoking. At about eight o’clock, the little round tables in the -front room are occupied one by one, whilst at a side bench, over which -the notice of “_non si fuma qui_,”[26] seems to promise a few cubic -yards of atmosphere less densely impregnated than the rest, may be -seen two or three individuals drinking _thé á latte_, and conversing -confidentially in an under tone. These are great men, whose chisels and -brushes have astonished all Europe. And yet the eye of the _ministro_ -with the coffee-biggin is no oftener directed towards them, than to -the humble _stalliere_, who is smacking his _rhummeggiata_ on the -opposite bench, nor is the customary obeisance of the Signor Giovanni, -a whit lower to one party than the other. And now Pietro, the waiter, -who has been fanning himself at the open door-way, suddenly arouses -us by a prolonged cry of, “_dolcissimo_,” and we know that in another -minute we shall see ----, whose scriptural subjects have gained him so -great a notoriety, whilst a similar call for “_mezza crema con poco -zucchero_,”[27] betokens the approach of the less sweet-toothed author -of the “Life of Raffaelle.” Pietro knows and never fails to remember -the peculiar taste of each of his customers, and I have heard him give -the order for my “_pane bruscato_,” or dry toast, the moment that I -have turned the corner of the Piazza di Spagna. - -About the middle of the day, there is a sprinkling of Frenchmen, who -drop in to open their appetites by a taste of the “gialla bottiglia,” -so called from the amber-coloured abscynthe, without which preparative, -and the subsequent _chasse_, their mid-day meal would be considered -incomplete. During the afternoon, there is a constant succession of -applicants for _caffè-noir_, accompanied by the regulation weed at one -bajocco, a cigar generally supposed to have been born in a cabbage-bed, -and baked brown in an oven, and which, after lying a month on the shelf -of a _spaccio normale_, returns to dust in the Greco. In the evening, -the caffé is generally filled with a miscellaneous company from all -quarters of Europe, who indulge in _mezzi-caldi_ and hot discussions, -mixing punch with politics, and debating knotty questions bearing upon -“art,” until midnight, when the house is closed. - -Whilst speaking of Roman coffee-houses, I must not omit to mention the -“Bon Goût,” in the Piazza di Spagna, certainly one of the best in the -city, and although not much frequented by the generality of artists, -its benches are often occupied by the older stagers, who mumble through -an elaborate breakfast, unannoyed by the combined odours of tobacco -and abscynthe. Here too, will always be found some of that peculiar -class, so justly idolized by the Roman dealers in bronzes, mosaics, and -marbles, men who carry with them to England, boat-loads of _giallo_ -and _rosso-antico_, and fill their carriages with camei and green -lizards. Then again, the “Bon Goût” is the resort of those who prefer -a French roll and newspaper, to the monotony of a hotel breakfast in -their bedrooms, and is therefore crowded in the visiting season. In the -afternoon, its tables are arranged outside, under an awning, and there -is a constant demand for ices and barley-water, and as the genuine -_punch a la romaine_, ought, if it really does not, to date from the -Bon Goût, and may there be had in perfection, the ladies can want no -excuse for a free indulgence therein. - -Having disposed of the _Caffè_, I will devote another page or two -to the unintellectual subject of gastronomy, and beg my reader to -accompany me into a Trattoria, or Italian restaurant. Those of Rome -are numerous and generally good, but as it is with that of the -“_Lepri_,” that I am more particularly concerned, and may hereafter -have frequently to allude to it, I will endeavour to give a short -description of it and its frequenters. The “Lepri” is in the Via -Condotti, exactly opposite the Caffè Greco, and takes its title from -the palace which adjoins it. The head of the establishment is, or -lately was, a wealthy widow, who would never scruple to render a -service to an artist, and would lend her stock of plate, or tend a sick -couch with unhesitating kindness. Her son lives upon his _rentes_, -which are sufficiently good, and enable him to keep his carriage and -shooting-box. - -On the ground-floor, are two public rooms and an enormous kitchen, -but as the former are chiefly frequented by Italians, we will ascend -the dark and greasy staircase to the first-floor, where we shall find -three distinct entrances to as many tolerably spacious rooms. The -presiding deity of the first, is the old Ferrarese waiter, Aurelio, -with his attendant sommelier rejoicing in the high-sounding name of -Ferdinando Terribile, who seldom sees a customer dine three times in -his room, before he bestows upon him some appropriate soubriquet.[28] -Aurelio is a character possessing some of the _suaviter in modo_ of -his Imperial prototype, and will also be found, if pressed for two -consecutive portions of pudding, (which he stoutly maintains to be -unnecessary,) equally _fortiter in re_. In Aurelio’s room are three -tables, which, at twelve o’clock, or thereabouts, are appropriated by -hungry yellow-haired Danes and Saxons, deep in the mysteries of _purèe_ -and _giardinetto_, their flowing beards and moustaches, lubricated -and unctuous with the greasy fluid, which appears by its effects to -be as conducive to a luxuriant growth, as the genuine Macassar. -The application of a piece of bread puts them in train for the next -course, and now Aurelio may be observed confidentially whispering, -and touching upon the excellence of such items of his bill of fare, -as he knows will suit the taste of each particular customer. To one -he dictates a _fritto misto_, a sort of omnium gatherum, as its name -implies, consisting generally of small portions of calve’s head, liver, -brains, artichoke, cabbage leaves, cauliflowers, and young gourds, -fried in fat. Then an Irishman interrupts him, with a demand for two -_mezzi-manzi_, or bouilli, by which little dodge, he hopes to secure -a larger portion, than if he had ordered a whole _go_. To another, -Aurelio recommends an _agrodolce_, a villainous compound of sweets -and sours, or a _stufatino_ of beef and celery, stewed to rags. The -rattling of knives and plates is now almost deafening. Terribile, in -his capacity of canava, or butler, rushes about with wine-flasks and -_fogliette_,[29] of the white and red _nostrale_,[30] having already -taken care, like a ship’s purser, to withhold a thumb-toll from each -bottle in the process of decanting. A course of sweets then follows, -and of these, there is such an alarming variety, that the bill of fare -rather puzzles than assists one in making a selection. Under this -head, comes the _Zuppa Inglese_, a name which leads our uninitiated -countrymen to suppose that ox-tail, or mutton broth, has got by chance -into a wrong column, and if ordered, makes its appearance in the form -of a flat sponge-cake, soaked in rum, with an upper coating of plaster -of paris, and blue sugar-plums. Here also is the delicate _ricotta_, a -curd much eaten by the Italians at their breakfast, but usually fried -in oil or made into pudding, when served at dinner. Dessert is rarely -eaten, and I should think never called for a second time by any one at -the “Lepri.” I was once rash enough to express to Aurelio, my desire -for some fruit. He assented, with a stare of astonishment, and brought -me, on a plate, a shrivelled apple, two lumps of sugar, two figs, some -unripe almonds, a piece of cheese, and four large green beans, in the -furry pod. The latter are eaten as a delicacy, but I should think a -taste for overgrown scarlet-runners, would be acquired with difficulty -by an Englishman. - -The adjoining rooms will be found very much to resemble that to which I -have endeavoured to introduce the reader, saving that people of other -nations will be found there, and instead of his mother-tongue or the -silvery Italian, his ears will be greeted with the harsh gutterals of -Germany, or the still less-intelligible Russian. Behind the Trattoria -there is a garden, where we sometimes dined _al fresco_, under -odd-looking trees, of questionable appearance. If the wind happened to -be stirring, there would sometimes drop upon us and into our plates -and dishes, a shower of green beetles or caterpillars, whilst our feet -and legs were besieged by a legion of ants. As I never much enjoyed -the forced presence of these little visitors, my rustic dinners were -anything but frequent. - -Such is a rough outline of the mid-day meal at the “Lepri.” With some -this is called, and really serves as a dinner, though the hour of Ave -Maria is generally the busiest at the various Trattorie. Besides the -“Lepri,” there are other eating-houses frequented by artists, who are -often capricious in their tastes, and will walk a mile or more in quest -of some dish of particularly good repute. In the Corso, there is a -Restaurant called the “Bertini,” used by such as prefer being served -in a somewhat more ostentatious style, and who do not object to pay -a trifle more for it. Here the wines are better, and there is more -choice of them than at some other places, but the cuisine is very much -the same. The Gabbione, the Falcone, and the Scalinata, are well-known -houses, each remarkable in some way or other. The first, which was -once a banking-establishment, is a cellar under a house, near the -Fountain of Trevi, and is famed for its good wines, delicious water, -and cheapness, but it has withal an appearance so murky and so very far -removed from cleanliness, that the Germans have bestowed upon it the -appellation of the “Dirty Spoon.”[31] The street which leads to it from -the fountain, so celebrated by Madame de Stael, is a sort of vegetable -shamble, and reeks with the perpetual odours of cabbage leaves and bad -melons. A great deal of business is done here in thin lemonades and the -opal-hued _assensio_, and it is the resort of Carbonari and big dirty -men, who emulate the _pieni_ of the Corso, in swallowing ices and cold -_bibite_.[32] In winter the heaps of vegetables give place to fizzing -cauldrons of fish, of queer shapes, indigenous only to the Tiber, among -which the really delicate _triglie_[33] figures conspicuously, while -vast tin waiters of fried fish, which tempt even the very Jews from -the Ghetto, are here displayed in close rank on either side. But let us -now explore the damp cellar of the “Dirty Spoon.” Having descended four -or five steps, we find ourselves in a sort of vaulted chamber, whose -intense gloom is only relieved by the doubtful white of the coarse -cloths which cover the narrow tables. Alessio the waiter, will be found -either busy with his customers, or fast asleep upon a bench. These -are his only two conditions, and he fulfils each to the letter. It is -wonderful, with what accuracy he will remember the precise quantity and -value of the dishes consumed by each of his customers, without having -recourse to pencil and paper. The _chef_ of the Gabbione, like those -of other Roman trattorie, appears to have an invincible objection to -the introduction of any novel dish, and I was therefore much surprised -one evening that I visited its subterranean, in company with Savill and -“the Emperor,”[34] who were bent upon supping. We had hardly seated -ourselves, ere Alessio pompously announced a new dish. “Signori, -abbiamo Bomba alla Cerito!” The _plat_ appeared well-timed, inasmuch -as the great artiste was at that very moment delighting the volatile -Romans at the Teatro Aliberti, hard by. “Vediamo,” was our reply, and -the _Bomba_ was introduced, but any thing less likely to recall even a -faint recollection of a “_pas seul_,” I never saw. It proved to be a -ball of rice, fried in green oil, and enclosing a solitary sparrow, of -which the head alone was visible, and was remarkable only on account of -its exalted name, and extremely ludicrous appearance. In taste it was -excellent. - -[Illustration: UNA BOMBA ALLA CERITO!] - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[25] Coffee and chocolate mixed. - -[26] “No smoking here.” - -[27] “Half a cream with little sugar.” - -[28] A practice rendered in some degree necessary, from Terribile’s -inability to pronounce our Saxon names. - -[29] A _Foglietto_ is a small decanter, holding nearly a pint. - -[30] _Nostrale_, when applied to wine, means that grown in one’s own -vineyards. - -[31] Zum schmutzigen Löffel. - -[32] Swizzle. (English Vernacular.) - -[33] Red Mullet. - -[34] Terribile had dignified one of our friends with the imposing title -of “Imperatore.” - - - - -CHAPTER XX. - - THE TOMBOLA--MAUSOLEUM OF AUGUSTUS--THE MONTGOLFIER--CURIOUS - FINALE--THE BIGLIARDO--POOL--SIR T. B.--AN AMUSING ACQUAINTANCE--THE - BEWILDERED BARBER--THE DOG “PINCIO”--PREPARATIONS FOR - CARNIVAL--BOMBARDING IN THE CORSO--CHARACTERS--CHARLATANS--THE FESTINI. - - -Shortly after my arrival in Rome, I had an opportunity of witnessing -the drawing of a lottery, or _Tombola_, as it is there called, an -interesting and exciting scene. These are got up ostensibly for -purposes of charity, and are so ordered, that many parties may be -winners at one and the same time. No sooner is a tombola decided on, -than a vast number of tickets are struck off, and distributed for -sale at various authorized offices throughout the city. These are -simply pieces of paper, containing fifteen spaces, which the applicant -fills up with any fifteen numbers he may choose to fix upon, paying a -moderate sum for the ticket and its registration. On the day appointed -for the drawing of the lottery, I repaired with my friend R---- to the -Corea, or Mausoleum of Augustus, an amphitheatre, now used as a circus -for travelling showmen, and exhibitions _à la Franconi_. On the present -occasion, its benches, and raised platforms were crowded with people -of all degrees and classes, of whom there were perhaps scarcely fifty, -who did not take a personal interest in the drawing of the numbers. The -wheel of fortune was hung in front of a box on the highest tier, in a -conspicuous situation, and we had scarcely taken our seats, ere a dead -silence announced that the first number was about to be drawn. After a -suitable whirling of the cylinder, a little boy drew forth the paper, -and the number was immediately proclaimed by a herald to the expectant -crowd, whilst at the same time, one of ninety squares, upon a large -black board, turned suddenly upon its axis, and revealed the number to -such as were too distant to hear it. All eyes were now bent upon the -tickets; pencils and pins went to work wherever the number was held, -and then an interval of talking and shouting succeeded, until another -number was drawn and proclaimed. Three consecutive numbers constitute -a _terno_, and command a small prize, while a _quaterno_ of four in -succession, and a _cinquina_ of five, are still more advantageous. It -was not long before a commotion at one particular spot in the crowd -announced the holding of one of these, and the fortunate possessor -then elbowed his way to the wheel, through the dense mass of people, -to receive his prize. About an hour elapsed before “Tombola” was -declared in two places. This only occurs when the declaration of the -numbers drawn has enabled the possessor of a ticket to score off his -whole fifteen, and this done, he became entitled, as in the present -instance, to a prize of three hundred scudi, or a little more than -£60. This concluded the lottery, but some additional amusement was -promised to the crowd, in the shape of a montgolfier balloon, with a -lot of fireworks attached to its hoop, which was inflated after the -tombola was disposed of. Such a machine was probably new to many of -the country-people assembled in the amphitheatre, who gazed at it, as -it slowly filled, with extreme astonishment. Whether intentionally, -or by accident, I know not, but no sooner had the retaining cord been -severed, than the balloon rose a few feet above the heads of the gaping -spectators, and then toppling over, first caught fire itself, and next -ignited the combustibles which were tied to it. Squibs, crackers, and -Roman candles, now burst forth in a fiery shower, which caused a dire -confusion in the arena, whilst the miserable remnant of a balloon, -ascending to the upper boxes, scattered burning fragments of thin -paper amongst the silks and satins of the ladies. The women screamed, -and the men yelled and hooted, and the uproar was at its height, when -suddenly the sponge, which had been plentifully saturated with spirits, -detached itself from the wires, and fell into the middle of a group -of contadini, who had been staring upwards in awe-struck amazement. -A bursting bomb-shell would have been nearly as welcome. The people -cleared a space immediately, whilst one young fellow, more disposed for -fun than the rest, hurled the flaming affair into a distant part of -the arena, where its arrival, being equally unexpected, caused quite -as great a sensation. Many persons had their clothes injured, whilst -others were more or less burned, and it is probable that the fun would -have ended in something less innocent, had not the soldiery put a -sudden stop to it, by clearing the place. - -In one of the rooms of the Fiano palace, was a Roman “_bigliardo_,” -where I could always be pretty sure of meeting some of my countrymen, -when dinner was over. On rainy days especially, it was satisfactory -to know, that one might get a few hours’ exercise under cover, and -we occasionally mustered a strong _pool_. In the Italian game, only -two balls are made use of, and any number of persons can play, the -marker giving out a lot of little figured counters, which are shuffled -in a bag, and decide the particular number of each player. The cues -are generally without leathers, the Italians having but little notion -of the _side_ stroke, and the handling of them is so noisy and -disagreeable, that I prevailed upon the marker, as an especial favour, -to point one or two for us, but his innocence proved so great, that he -nailed on a few round pieces of shoe-leather, with a common tack, and -fancied he had succeeded to admiration. After one or two more attempts, -he acquired the right method of fixing the leather, and we could then -enjoy our game. The pool was never higher than two bajocchi ahead, and -each life of one bajocco, a moderation on our part, which astonished -such stray English visitors, as dropped in occasionally upon us. - -As we played purely for recreation, any thing like an innovation would -have been regarded by the old frequenters of the room as an insult. Sir -T---- B---- would have thrown down his cue in disgust, and his common -exclamation of _mi sento meglio_ would have given way to a groan of -despair. Dedly would have greeted any such proposition with a stare of -wonder at its extraordinary boldness, whilst Warmey would incontinently -have “pitched into” the intruder. Such being the order of our game, -the _bigliardo_ became a general rendezvous, one of its two tables -being vacated the instant that Sir T.’s well-known shuffle was heard at -the glass doors. The other was always left to the Italians, who played -neither for amusement nor exercise, inasmuch as they used to _sit_ -round the table, and watch by the hour together a game played by three -or four of their party, with a number of minute balls set in motion by -the hand. This was evidently a _parti_ requiring considerable skill, -heavy bets being laid upon the event. What this might be, I never could -clearly ascertain, but the excitement produced by the game was so -intense, that Sir T.’s exclamation from our table of “_Bigliardiere, -tacco qui_” which he repeated on an average once every ten minutes, -calling the attention of the marker from the other game, was received -by the Italians with muttered imprecations upon the fat old _Inglese_, -whose short legs rendered the butt or bridge, necessary at every second -stroke. Sir T---- however, was proof against any insult, whether in -English or Italian, _sotto_ or _viva voce_, a good-natured indifference -on his part, which often made _him_ the butt of his brother-players. - -Another game much in vogue in Italy, is that of the _Pirole_, where -five little pins are set up in the centre of the table, through which -a _pallino_, or small red ball, is doubled. The number of _pirole_ -knocked over by it are counted as so many points, as well as certain -odd cannons and winning hazards, but as the pockets in an Italian -table are preposterously large, and the great art seems to consist in -avoiding them rather than otherwise, the _pirole_ is a game not often -played by foreigners. - -In the _bigliardo_ of the Fiano, I made the acquaintance among others -of D----, a young Highlander, whose vagaries afterwards made him the -terror of all the coffee-house and tavern-waiters in Rome. He was -_not_ an artist, but appeared to be travelling solely for his pleasure -and amusement, lodging on the first floor of a house in the Condotti, -and devoting himself entirely to the prosecution of practical jokes, -and the study of German particles. His apartment looked like the -den of some embryo Anderson, or Phillipe, so filled was it at all -times with conjuring apparatus and machines for jerking obnoxious -missiles. For many days the shopkeepers, and others in his immediate -neighbourhood, but more especially those on the opposite side of the -street, were astonished by continued showers of peas, which sometimes -rattled in torrents against their windows, or popped per single pea, -at ominous and regular intervals against one particular pane. In vain -did the bewildered barber at the corner of the Via Belsiana, full ten -houses off, wait in ambush at his shop-door to rush out against some -wrongly-suspected _bambinaccio_.[35] No sooner did he expose his own -block and wig outside the door-post than a stinging volley caused him -to beat a hasty retreat. Every priest that passed along the Condotti -was saluted with one or more peas, which rebounding with a sharp -crack from off his stiff three-decker glanced away to a distance, -leaving the unfortunate _padre_ lost in a stare of amazement. These -persecutions continued without intermission for a fortnight, and the -Cock Lane ghost could scarcely have produced a more feverish excitement -in its immediate locality, than did the twopenny pea-shooter of the -waggish D----, from behind the _jalousies_ of his bed-room window. It -is difficult to say what might have been the end of these vagaries, -had they not been suddenly put a stop to by the interference of D.’s -landlord, who had acquired some clue to their author from the tinman -on the ground-floor, who had made the pea-shooter, a weapon hitherto -unknown in Roman warfare, and consequently regarded with curiosity. - -This was one only in the catalogue of jokes perpetrated by our new -friend. Hot bajocchi were thrown from his window, to be picked up and -dropped again by the lad at whose feet they fell. His neighbours were -kept awake half the night by the discordant notes of a badly-blown -cornet-à-piston, whose melodies alternated between “_Jolly nose_” and -“_Ti voglio ben’ assai_,” a canzonetta which D. had picked up at -Naples. An old German Countess, who occupied the adjoining chamber -in the next house, was compelled to quit her rooms and forfeit half -a-year’s rent, from a firm conviction that the place was haunted. -Little did she imagine that her next-door neighbour never retired to -rest without indulging in the royal game of tennis, playing a match -between his right and left hands against the party wall. - -Though not himself an artist, D---- made some pretensions that way. -An unfortunate dog, which appeared to exist alternately at the Lepri, -and Caffé Greco, and seemed more particularly to attach itself to the -English, was enticed in an evil hour to D----’s apartment. Our artist -had provided himself with one or two bladders of oil-paint and some -brushes, and having coaxed poor _Pincio_ into a suitable position, -converted him in about twenty minutes into a species of nondescript -hyæna, and then let him loose into the Condotti, where he created -considerable consternation. Such as first saw him, fled in terror to -the open shop-doors, while the more courageous set off in pursuit, -chasing the poor animal through a funeral procession, whose solemnities -he utterly confounded, to the Greco, which he entered at full speed, -and upsetting Antonio with two _mezzi-caldi_ and a _caffé nero_, -forced his way into the omnibus room amid the _huèes_ of a tribe of -raggamuffins of the Populusque Romanus, who imagined that some wild -animal had escaped from the menagerie of Guillaume in the Corea. Here -poor Pincio shuffled in and out among the legs of some ten or more of -us, transferring broad streaks of burnt-umber and ivory-black from -_his_ coat to _our_ trowsers, whilst the author of all the mischief had -unconcernedly seated himself in a shaded corner, and was enjoying the -success of his first essay in oils. - -The period of Carnival was now at hand, and most of my friends were -busy in making preparations for the coming festivities. In touching -upon those incidental to this particular season, I shall jot down -such occurrences as came under my own notice, relating chiefly to the -operations of brother artists, who are, like all the rest, subject -to the epidemics of fun and frolic. Transmogrified in dress and -feature, their very mothers would fail to recognize their offspring; -and immolating their last _scudo_ at the shrine of the Swiss vendor -of confetti and bon-bons, or sinking it at once in the shortlived -incognito of mask and domino, they take their part in the triumph of -Momus. “Who enters there, leaves hope behind,” as far as the financial -arrangements of the future are concerned, and many a poor artist -laments with empty stomach, the forced “farewell to flesh,” which his -reckless expenditure, during the Carnival, obliges him to practise for -weeks after the fun is over. But to proceed--I have already hinted that -I shall not enter upon a lengthy description of the Carnival, and I -will, therefore, note down only such little episodes of the few days -of amusement as come most readily to hand. If the weather be fine, -there is an unusual degree of excitement in the streets, before the -anxiously expected hour of two, when the Governor of Rome, officers -of state, dragoons, soldiers, and civic guard, march in stately pomp -along the narrow Corso, and “opening the ball,” as it were, give the -signal for a commencement of the festivities. The street has been -newly gravelled for the occasion, whilst throughout its whole length, -the balconies are decorated with crimson cloths, damasks, antique -brocades and hearth-rugs, giving it an appearance which may be compared -to a perspective view of a tailor’s pattern card, until the mingled -colours are lost in the distance. The lower windows are fitted up like -stage-boxes at a theatre, and the pavements exhibit long files of -chairs, placed close together, for the accommodation of such of the -fair sex as cannot resist a participation in the gaiety, though their -timidity restrains them from mixing with the crowd. - -It is difficult to say in what the peculiar delight of the Carnival -consists--the avowed business of each successive day, is to carry -about one, as great a quantity as possible of plaster of Paris -_confetti_, for the purpose of indiscriminate pelting, wholesale or -retail as the case may be. Some reserve their stores for general use, -dealing the contents of their pockets and pouches right and left, -with a recklessness quite exhilarating, and by no means dangerous; -while those more up to the game, wreak private vengeance upon any -unfortunate object they may single out as peculiarly adapted for a -volley, especially if the individual be unmasked. These onslaughts -do not always go unavenged, the assailant, when he least expects it, -receiving in his face a half-pound of white canister, or may-be, a -bonce compounded of chalk and sugar, which produces some new and very -palpable phrenologic development. Everything, however, is supposed to -be fair at the time of Carnival, and few are the insults offered which -cannot be expiated by a hearty laugh, or a friendly interchange of -missiles. - -The most dignified-looking people in the Corso, are the Roman dandies, -who seldom condescend to mingle in any of the active sport, but stand -condensed in a mass at the doors of the various caffes, smoking their -cigars, and turning to the right and left with a mingled expression of -imbecility and good-natured contempt. The higher classes may be seen -in the procession which threads its way, unending and at dreary pace, -from end to end of the long street. These, and the lower orders, or -_basso ceto_, are by far the most facetious, and keep up between them, -the true spirit of the Carnival. But our grave and matter-of-fact -country-people, seem of all others to enjoy themselves to the full -extent, exaggerating to a ludicrous degree the authorized liberties of -the occasion. For every handful of _confetti_ cast by a Roman, the -young Englishman from his first-floor balcony, returns a shovel-full, -systematically raining upon the passing crowd, a continuous shower of -lime, until the street below is whitened by his unromantic ammunition. -But let us adjourn to a neighbouring studio in the Via Felice, where we -may see the preparations making by some of our friends for their first -appearance on the Corso. I arrived just as lunch was going on, and -found a number of my acquaintance in various stages of their toilet, -whilst others were busily rehearsing. R----s, as Figaro, was running -through the “Bravo, bravissimo,” of the _Barbiere_, whilst T----, in -“jacket blue, and tarry, tarry trousers,” was regaling himself with raw -ham and a hornpipe in a corner of the room, whistling the air between -each mouthful. Our refection was interrupted at intervals by the -entrance of other brothers of the brush, each bedizened according to -his own ideas of originality, in monstrous nose or mask of preposterous -shape. Then came the sound of a guitar, and with his peculiar laugh -and satyr-like figure, enters Alesandro, the model and shoemaker, -for he serves by turns St. Luke and St. Crispin, and among other -eccentricities, is given to music, ready for a consideration, either -with a _pose plastique_, or a Neapolitan ditty. Our toilet finished, we -passed through the small streets contiguous to the Corso and Piazza di -Spagna, now all deserted and lonely. Every one seems attracted towards -the grand scene of action, a few perhaps, stopping by the way to -inquire of themselves, how they can reconcile it to their sound reason -to join in such excessive buffoonery. Our companion R----d was not of -this number; he revelled in the Carnival, anticipating each day’s fun -with peculiar gusto, and grave and decided in his preparations. His -arrangements were of the most perfect kind, and his success, as far as -incognito went, undeniable. To this day, all but his friends remain -ignorant of the identity of the merry sprite, now white, now red, with -Mephistopheles-looking face, and like Porson’s devil, “backwards and -forwards, switching his long tail.” To the Romans, he appeared a kind -of myth, a being whose mysterious properties it were unsafe to pry -into. I had heard of his pranks both here and at Florence, and I saw -sufficient of them at this carnival, to convince me he was a very king -of maskers. - -But to return to the Corso. Elbowing through the crowd, and stoically -submitting to the burst of mimic artillery, which is sure to assail -every new comer, one glances timidly around, and upwards. It would -fill a larger volume than this, were I to attempt even a cursory -description of the scene which is there presented. The myriads of -closely grouped heads, and faces of all expressions, bending over -the moving mass below, all intent and animated, as if life and death -depended upon some mighty issue, about to take place: the odd mixture -of character and colour, every possible impersonation mingled up and -confused with the Roman, οι πολλοι, formed a perfect tide of human -beings, of whom each endeavoured to outstrip his neighbour in an excess -of absurdity. Among these are conspicuous, the lawyer-like individuals, -half-quack, half-notary, who amuse the passers by with extemporaneous -advertisements, upon some fictitious nostrum, which their doggrel verse -attempts to justify. Their effusions are satirical, and often unsuited -to ears polite, but around them will always be seen a gaping crowd, who -drink in with avidity their political allusions, and gaze on them with -looks of veneration, far beyond their merits to inspire. Over-head, the -air is almost darkened with the unceasing showers of confetti, flowers, -and sweet-meats, while the face, if unprotected by a mask, becomes a -butt for all sorts of missiles. The stream of carriages is continuous, -one file passing each way, and the order of these is so well maintained -by the mounted Carabinieri, who guard all the streets leading out of -the Corso, that in a crowded Carnival, it is rarely that the same -carriages meet each other twice in one day. At the hour of five, a -single gun booms from the Castle of St. Angelo, and a troop of mounted -dragoons rapidly clear the streets, the giddy masquers, and more sober -observers, retreating to the protection of the curb-stone. Then follows -the well-known race of the riderless Barberi, and subsequently the -dispersion of the crowd. - -During the Carnival, a _Festino_ is held at either the Argentina or -Aliberti theatre. These are pretty much the same as our masquerade, -excepting for the variety of tongues, and the greater facility and -cleverness displayed at Rome in dressing for and sustaining the -characters assumed, whilst at the _festino_, the stranger will not -remark any of the very equivocal morality which distinguishes our own -_bals masqués_. The common-people, as usual, have the best of it, -taking possession of the centre portion of the floor, and dancing -indefatigably under the droppings of wax lights, and amid a suffocating -cloud of dust, until literally pushed off the boards by an advancing -platoon of gens-d’armes, who move slowly along, in close file, until -they have entirely cleared away the nocturnal revellers. - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[35] The Italian terminations,--_accio_ and _uccio_ are particularly -expressive, one letter establishing a very wide difference in -their signification. _Bambino_ for example, means _a little boy_; -_Bambinaccio_, with a powerful emphasis on the _a_, means a naughty, -dirty little raggamuffin; whereas _Bambinuccio_ is a sweet little duck -of a boy! - - - - -CHAPTER XXI. - - JOURNEY TO FLORENCE--MY FRIEND LUISH--A SUSPICIOUS - LANDLADY--MONTEROSI--NEPI--THE HOTEL--LUISH’S HAT--CIVITA - CASTELLANA--OTRICOLI--MY WASHERWOMAN’S COUSIN--THE MERCHANDIZE - CART--NARNI--TERNI--PIE-DI’-LUCO--THE ECHO--STRITTURA--EGG - DIET--FULIGNO--PERUGIA--BOARDING-HOUSES--FLORENCE. - - -The warm season was now coming on, and with its approach came my old -tormentor, the rheumatism. I found that I had worn out the remedies -prescribed by my friend Dr. A---- of Cairo, which had procured me -considerable relief whilst in Egypt and under his immediate care, -but now seemed entirely without effect. I therefore determined upon -a farther change of air and scene, and having heard of a celebrated -English physician at Florence, made up my mind to proceed thither -and consult him, and as most of my countrymen quit Rome during the -extreme heat of the summer months, I had no difficulty in meeting with -a travelling companion. It happened that a young architect, named -Luish, had long been meditating a journey northwards, and he and I -agreed to set off on a walking tour together, preferring such a mode of -locomotion, to either _malleposte_ or _vetturino_. We were both anxious -to see the country, and to have the option of making digressions from -the beaten track, wherever some piece of scenery more than ordinarily -beautiful might offer the inducement. - -Our resolution was no sooner formed, than carried into effect, and -bidding a temporary adieu to our Roman friends, a party of whom -accompanied us to the Porta del Popolo, we entered on the Flaminian -Way, and took the road towards Florence, provided only with trusty -sticks, and our knapsacks, sending our portmanteaux by _diligence_ -as far as Perugia, there to await us. I believe our appearance was -anything but remarkable on the score of good looks, as we both wore -the velveteen jacket of the Roman artist, whilst my companion had -marred the appearance of his ensemble, by the assumption of a wretched -old white hat from Bread Street, which he regarded and stuck to, as a -valued relic. In one respect, our questionable shape was an advantage, -as no highway robber would have thought it worth his while to molest -us; at least such was our fancied security. The day was insufferably -hot, and the roads dusty, so that we could scarcely hope to get on -very far at a stretch, and on reaching a little road-side osteria, -called Il Fosso, a few miles beyond the posting station of La Storta, -we began to feel so weary, that the landlady’s offer of beds at a -paul each, was no sooner made than accepted. As our bed-room did not -boast of any other furniture than the two beds, Luish and I made our -morning toilette at a delicious fountain, just outside the house, -where we soused and splashed away to our hearts’ content, my companion -running about to dry himself, whilst I performed the same operation -with an ample Egyptian towel, which I carried in my knapsack. This -latter proceeding attracted the notice of our landlady, who had no -idea of so unwonted a luxury on the part of a poor walking _pittore_, -and ultimately arrived at the conclusion, that I had appropriated the -supper-cloth of the previous evening. To disabuse the old woman of her -odd suspicion, was the work of a moment, but the hard impeachment was -by no means very flattering. - -Having paid our little score, we pursued our walk, passing the -miserable village of Borghettaccio, and the pestilential Baccano. Here -a boy overtook us with two return horses, on whose bare backs we got a -lift to the posting village of Monterosi, where we entered an osteria, -and called for some refreshment. This we were not suffered to enjoy in -peace, as a lot of rude fellows came in soon after, and endeavoured to -provoke us into a _broglio_, with a view most probably to hustle and -deprive us of our knapsacks. We managed to defeat their intentions, by -taking their insults in good part, until we had settled our reckoning, -and got clear into the street, where they were afraid to tackle us. A -more villainous-looking set of people than those of Monterosi, I never -saw. Ugly old women grinned maliciously at us as we passed by their -filthy dwellings--the men were all dirty and unshorn, lame, blind, and -crippled, and the very children hopped after us on crutches, to solicit -a stray bajocco. We were heartily glad when we had quitted the village, -and exchanged the dull and uncultivated campagna, for a thickly-wooded, -hilly landscape. - -A little beyond Monterosi, the road diverges; one branch leading to -Florence, by Viterbo and Siena, and the other by Perugia. The first -is the great post-road, shorter and more frequented, but the latter -is by far the most interesting, and abounds with charming scenery. -My companion and I had already made up our minds, and pushed onwards -towards Nepi, a strongly fortified little town, in a picturesque -situation, where we decided upon passing the night. I believe we went -to the only, and therefore the best inn in the place, but the single -bench for the accommodation of weary travellers, was _in_ the great -chimney of the kitchen, where our heads were exposed to an intense -draught of smoke and wind, whilst our boots were nearly reduced to -cinders. In this comfortable state of things, we hastily swallowed -our supper, and were shown to the only bed-room in the house, which -proved to be a general dormitory, two out of its four beds being -already tenanted by snoring _carrettieri_. As we had determined before -quitting Rome, to make the best of everything, and see all we could -at any cost, we turned in without hesitation, tucking our trousers and -valuables under our bolsters, by way of precaution. - -Our intention was to have walked onwards early the next morning, but -on quitting our little inn, we found ourselves the gazing-stock of the -whole town, in consequence of the dilapidated condition of my friend’s -hat, which now looked as if _it_ also had been tucked for a night under -his pillow. It was indeed such a truly “bad” one, that we resolved it -should be replaced by something a little more respectable, although -upon inquiry, we found that Nepi did not boast a hatter’s shop. The -young man whom we interrogated, said he had at home a hat, which he -thought might answer the purpose, and a bargain was soon struck, in -the presence of some thirty of the townsfolk. The discarded gossamer -was consigned to the gutter, where it served as a foot-ball for a -crowd of idle boys, and eventually found its way to the head of a -drunken shoemaker. In the shop of a little tobacconist, we met with an -intelligent German, who, observing that we were foreigners, very kindly -conducted us to some fine points of view, and so tempting did we find -them, that the rest of the day was passed in sketching. We afterwards -took a few random profiles in the cigar shop, and among others that of -our new friend, who seemed very much delighted when I cut it out of my -sketch-book and presented it to him. - -The next day we took the mountain road to Civita Castellana, along -a rocky bridle path, which saves a few miles, and is much more -interesting than the carriage-road. The Mons Soracte, or as it is now -called, St. Oreste, was constantly before us, rising from the midst of -a fertile plain, and forming a pleasing part of the landscape. As we -walked, we were waylaid by a couple of rough-looking customers, whose -intentions were evidently dishonest. We gave them the slip by sheer -good running, clearing the last mile into the valley below Civita -in excellent style, but so knocked up and out of breath, that once -within reach of friendly shelter, we took our time in ascending the -zigzag steps which lead to the lofty summit of rock on which the city -is built. A little inn called the “Moro,” furnished us with tolerable -accommodation, and we were no sooner fairly housed, that the rain began -to descend in such a determined drizzle, that we should have been -disappointed had the next morning proved bright and sunshiny. Civita -Castellana is about the last of all places in which a traveller would -wish to be weather-bound, and Luish and I started off in the wet for -Otricoli. Near a post-house called Borghetto, we crossed the Tiber, -which is there a beautiful stream, fertilizing a wide valley between -rugged hills, and navigable below the bridge for boats drawing only -four or five feet of water. We had a very up-hill walk to Otricoli, -a miserable little town with a locanda of the meanest description. -As a set-off, however, against its various _desagrèmens_ we found a -most obliging landlady, who no sooner observed that our knapsacks were -drenched, and that we must lie in our beds until a change of linen was -ready, than she very kindly provided us with sundry articles from the -wardrobe of her _sposo_. - -As I stood at the door of the inn, under shelter of its rude and -stuccoless piazza, eyeing the big drops which came splashing down -before me, I was accosted by a dapper-looking young Roman in blue -velveteen, who inquired if I were the _Signor Bevano_, adding, that -he was charged, if he overtook us on the road, to give us a lift in -his merchandize cart, as far as our way might lie together. Having -acknowledged my identity, I learned that the order emanated from my -Roman washerwoman, who upon hearing that her _cugino_ was travelling -our way on one of his monthly journeys, had begged him to give us a -cast, and we agreed to accept his offer the next morning. Otricoli -abounds with remains of former splendour, and it is said that the -suburbs of ancient Rome extended thus far. I walked with Luish to see -what was most interesting within the precincts of the town, but our -landlord’s clothes and boots fitted us so badly, and the enormous red -cotton umbrellas soaked in such a power of rain water, and were so -very heavy, that our researches were soon concluded. Our friend having -called us at five o’clock, we descended from the cloudy regions of -Otricoli, and as the weather was now much improved, enjoyed one of the -finest rides imaginable. As we approached Narni, the road skirted the -edge of a tremendous ravine overhanging the Nera, a mountain torrent -of the Appenines, rushing between rocky and beautifully wooded -precipices, until swallowed up in the Tiber below Otricoli. - -The merchandize cart was well-horsed, and driven in a way that would -not have disgraced a more elegant turnout. The _cugino_ would accept -nothing by way of reward, save a breakfast at the “Lion of St. Marc,” -in the little piazza of Narni, where he deposited us with many -protestations of good-will, and a regret that his business did not call -him farther on our road. Narni is an interesting town perched on the -side of a steep declivity, and famed in history for the extraordinary -valour of its inhabitants, who devoured their wives and families rather -than surrender to the enemy! We remained there one day for the sake of -sketching the ruins of a fine bridge erected by the Emperor Augustus, -of which one arch is still perfect. Our road then lay through the -valley of the Nera, and from its extreme flatness, would have been -barely interesting but for the prospect of the blue Appenines in the -distance before us. - -Towards evening we reached Terni. The waiter at “_Les Iles -Britanniques_” seemed rather to hesitate about taking an order for -dinner from a pair of such seedy looking pedestrians as ourselves, -and I believe was considering the propriety of informing us with the -ready lie peculiar to his species, that the hotel was quite full, when -we were seen and recognized by our friend A----, who had been staying -there some days. This caused a diversion in our favour, and the waiter, -who declared he had mistaken us for German “_Handverke_,” was now all -smiles and attention. - -The next day was of course devoted to the Falls, which are as well -known to tarry-at-home travellers, as those of the Coliseum and -Zoological gardens. I shall therefore, spare my readers the customary -quotation from Childe Harold, which, as I could not call it to mind -as we stood gazing at the cascade, and have not since had occasion to -remember, I shall not now take the trouble to search after. Suffice -it to say, that the Velino tumbles over the same rock as heretofore, -in its own old-fashioned way, from the same “headlong height,” and -with a tolerably considerable “roar of waters.” My friend Luish hinted -something about “Phlegethon,” but as none of our fifteen guides -had ever heard of such a thing, we agreed to drop the subject, and -proceeded onwards to the small lake of Luco, where we were rowed out to -a distant promontory to hear an extraordinary echo, repeating hexameter -lines and sentences of ten or twelve words. Here we sat on a bench -overlooking the lake and opposite village of Piè-di-luco, and treated -its inhabitants to a sort of _obligato_ concert. Among other choice -morceaux, were some verses of the German _Kuhreihe_, or _Jodeln_, -which I had picked up in some Tyrolese valley, and these seemed so -much to astonish the unsophisticated villagers, that one old fellow -put off in a boat and rowed over to us, to see what was the matter. -Having repeated my song, he insisted upon taking us home with him to -dinner, and introducing us to his family. A more jolly old fellow -than the Signor Lazzaro I never met with, and his wife and daughters -were equally agreeable. I suppose our attempts at Italian were of the -queerest, for we seemed to afford the whole family a good share of -amusement. We were not suffered to depart until after we had partaken -of an early supper, when the kind old gentleman had his horse and -cabriolet brought to the door, and drove us back again into Terni. - -Strittura was our next halting-place, where we could get nothing to eat -but eggs, the staple commodity of all small Italian villages: - - “We’d eggs in all shapes, ‘a la coq,’ ‘in tegame,’ - Eggs hard boiled, and soft boiled, and fried with _salame_.” - -It was curious to observe the shifts that our good landlady was put -to, in order to vary our oviparous entertainment. The _tegame_ is a -little earthen stew-pan, like the saucer belonging to our flower-pots, -with a handle, and in this the eggs are stirred up with butter, -forming a favourite Italian dish. As we swallowed our eggs in the -kitchen, two empty one-horse waggons, which were proceeding in our -direction, arrived at the door. On entering into conversation with the -_carrettieri_, we found that they were going as far as Fuligno, and as -their easy speed would exactly suit our own notions of getting over the -ground, we struck a bargain with them for four pauls each, Luish taking -one cart, and I the other. As they were roomy, and had each a good -shake-down of clean straw, we found that we could either sit, stand, or -lie down, as we listed, and with this ability to change our position, -we greatly enjoyed our ride. Passing over the Somma, a lofty point of -the Appenines, we drove round the walls of Spoleto, without entering -the city, being anxious to reach the little village of San Giacomo to -sleep. Here the inn proved almost a repetition of that at Il Fosso, -already mentioned, our morning ablutions being made at a fountain in -the yard: I was not however, this time, honoured by any suspicions on -the part of the landlady. - -Journeying onwards, we picked up a nail-maker of Fuligno, who proved -a very chatty fellow, and furnished us in his own person, with a good -specimen of the Fulignese character, remarkably for its intelligence -and energy. He pointed out to us the beautiful little temple of Diana, -near the source of the fertilizing Clitumnus, and quoted appropriately -from the Georgics of Virgil. This once pagan temple, is now dedicated -to some Christian saint, and though the sacrificial rites, have long -since been forgotten, the architectural beauty of the building remains -unimpaired, and the oxen of the Clitumnus are as white as ever. - -Fuligno is an interesting and well-built city, and a place of -considerable trade, with manufactories of silks and woollen stuffs. -Being anxious to reach Perugia, my companion and I got two places -in the “_legno_” of a Vetturino, in preference to walking over a -long piece of road, offering but little that is interesting to the -pedestrian. I shall not now describe the church of the “Madonna degli -Angeli,” nor the neighbouring town of Assisi, at which latter, I -subsequently made a sojourn of some weeks, but will at once pass on to -Perugia, a large Etruscan town, romantically perched upon the summit -of a lofty hill, and very strongly fortified. Our old Vetturino was -obliged to avail himself of the aid of two heavy oxen to assist us up -the steep ascent which had once frightened Hannibal, and it was near -the hour of Ave Maria, when we were set down at the door of the Casa -Zanetti, a private house to which we had been strongly recommended. -These Italian boarding-houses, are a great accommodation to such as may -not like the bustle and expense of an inn, and are much frequented by -artists, who may thus find a quiet home and every possible attention, -in almost any part of the country. From three to five pauls, or fifteen -pence to two shillings a-day, is the price of board and lodging, -including bed, breakfast, dinner and supper, the meals being taken with -the family, and at regular hours.[36] - -Perugia, independently of its being a fine city, and architecturally -beautiful, offers great attractions to the artist, in the productions -of the celebrated Perugino, Guido, Andrea, Sacchi, and others. In -the church of St. Peter, which was one of my favourite haunts, is a -fine copy by Sasso Ferrata of a picture of Raffaelle’s, and some good -paintings by Vasari. In the choir are some specimens of wood-carving, -from designs by Raffaelle, which are exceedingly bold and clever. -Perugia is also the seat of a university, and boasts of many public -institutions, besides a museum, rich in Etruscan relics. I staid a -week with my friend Luish at the Casa Zanetti, where we were well -entertained, and made some very agreeable acquaintance, but the -rheumatism, which seemed in no degree alleviated by the exercise of -walking, induced me to press onwards, that I might the sooner obtain -medical advice. For a sum of eight _scudi_, including “pasta la sera,” -or bed and supper, we hired a rickety old machine, and a surly driver, -to convey us to Florence. - -For many miles after passing Magione, the first village beyond Perugia, -our road skirted the memorable lake of Thrasymene, famed for the bloody -exploits of Hannibal, and then, passing without difficulty the Tuscan -frontier, we breakfasted at the little village of Ossaja, which is said -to have taken its name from the bones of the slaughtered Romans. The -contrast between the rich vine-clad hills of Tuscany, and the barren -wastes of the dominions of the Pope, is very striking to the traveller, -whilst there is also a manifest difference in the appearance of the -inhabitants. Instead of the ugly squalid-looking wretches, and fierce -threatening looks, which had almost frightened us at Monterosi, we -were now greeted with passing smiles and happy faces, betokening a -feeling of contentment, quite unknown on the other side the frontier. -As we approached Arezzo, the fields on each side of us assumed the -appearance of a well-cultivated garden, and our ride was accompanied -with such varied and pleasurable emotions, that the futile endeavours -of our old coachman to urge on his jaded horse, and the miserably slow -pace at which we advanced, served rather to amuse us than otherwise. At -length we reached the clean and well-built Arezzo, the birth-place of -Vasari and Petrarca, and having been almost jolted to a jelly in our -miserable _legno_, were glad enough to swallow some supper and retire -early to our beds, in the hotel of la Posta. - -The following day brought us to Florence. - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[36] At Amalfi, there is a locanda, where the above, with washing -included, may be had at eight pauls, or exactly sixpence a-day, each -person!! - - - - -CHAPTER XXII. - - THE “PORTA ROSSA”--JOURNEY TO BOLOGNA--THE BELLI - ARTI--ARCADES--CERTOSA--OUR FELLOW-TRAVELLERS--THE PARROT--AUSTRIAN - DOUANE--FERRARA--PADUA--CAFFE PEDROCCHI--VENICE--THE CASA - RAFFAELLI--GONDOLAS--LUISH’S PROFESSIONAL PURSUITS--MY FRIEND D. - AGAIN--TITIAN--MILITARY SALUTE--THE PASSEGGIATA. - - -Arrived at “Firenze la bella,” we drove to an inn called _La Porta -Rossa_, which had been recommended to us by a Roman acquaintance. Here -I met my friends Bellamy and Dickson, who were on their way northward, -and in an adjoining house, I discovered Vetch, of water-colour -celebrity, who kindly undertook to introduce me to Dr. P----, an -English physician, resident in Florence. This gentleman advised my -proceeding without delay to Venice, to take mud-baths, and gave me an -introductory letter to the Herr T----g, a German doctor of extensive -practice. Luish, although loth to quit Florence with only a single -day’s loitering in its wonderful galleries, was too kind to let me -start off alone, and we accordingly booked two places in the Orchesi -diligence to Bologna. It was late in the afternoon, when we quitted -the _Lung’ Arno_, as the quay along the south bank of the river is -denominated. As the evening closed in, we were accompanied by a swarm -of fire-flies, which flew in and out of the open windows of the coupé, -and were exceedingly brilliant. Luish caught one as we walked up a -hill, and having kept it until it was quite dark, we found that it gave -out sufficient light to enable us to see the time. We gradually lost -sight of them as we approached the more lofty ground of the chain of -Appenines, and it soon became so cold, that we were glad to use all the -clothing we could muster. - -At Bologna we staid one day, being anxious to see its Accademia. The -Bolognese school of painting numbers among its disciples some of the -highest professors of the art. The four Caracci, and their followers -Domenichino and Guercino, as well as Guido and Albani, with whose death -the art of painting declined in Italy, were of this school, and all -natives of Bologna. - -In the Accademia, are some beautiful pictures. The _St. Agnes_ of -Domenichino, the _Madonna della Pietà_, by Guido, and Raffaelle’s _St. -Cecilia_, are wonderful. The _Pere Eternel_, by Guercino, said to have -been commenced and finished in one night, although to my thinking, a -subject none should dare to attempt, is an extraordinary production. -Guido’s _Massacre of the Innocents_ is also a beautiful composition. - -The arcades which line both sides of nearly every street in Bologna, -although very convenient in wet weather, render the town dark and -gloomy, and having peeped into its finest churches, and clambered with -much labour to the summit of the leaning tower of Asinelli, I spent -with Luish a great part of the afternoon, in the interesting Certosa, -or Campo Santo, formed by Napoleon, about a mile out of the city, from -a destroyed convent of Carthusians. Its aisles and corridors are now -filled with tombs and monuments, and the resting-places of the dead -are interspersed with shrubs and flowers, forming an instructive, if -not to all tastes, an agreeable promenade. The Bolognese are so fond -of arcades, that they have constructed one three miles in length, a -continuous covered portico, from the city to the summit of a hill -called _La Guardia_, where there is a temple dedicated to the Madonna -of that name. Luish would not be satisfied until he had explored the -whole of it. I managed a portion of the distance, but finding it very -up-hill and fatiguing work, returned to the carriage at the foot of the -arcade, and waited for him. - -At a caffé in the evening we were accosted by a smart-looking -Vetturino, who offered us seats for Padua, to start at one the next -afternoon, staying a night at Ferrara. He had already arranged with -two other travellers, and finding his terms sufficiently moderate, we -closed with his offer. The next morning was spent in the Accademia, and -punctual to his appointment, Gioachino picked us up at the “Pension -Suisse.” We found our travelling companions to be two of our own -countrymen; one of them a Captain ----, returning from India, who -was bringing home, among other curiosities, a valuable parrot, whose -talking-qualifications caused us considerable amusement. We found -Ferrara so crowded with travellers, that one room at the hotel was all -our Vetturino could procure for us, and the honest fellow seemed quite -mortified at the want of accommodation. The landlord, however, did -all he could to serve us, and as we were disposed to make the best of -everything, we did ample justice to his cheer, and drawing lots to see -who should get the beds, and who the shake-downs, passed an undisturbed -night, and were called by the parrot in the morning. - -Soon after leaving Ferrara, we crossed the river Po on a flying -bridge, propelled from side to side by the current, and entering the -Lombardo-Venetian kingdom, were pulled up at the Emperor’s dogana, by -the fierce whiskerando on duty. It was still early in the morning, and -the head officer was in no very good humour at being knocked up at so -unconstitutional an hour, and kept us a long time kicking our heels -under the covered _douane_. We tried hard to conceal the parrot, which -was a contraband article, and, enclosed as it was in a small cage, -covered with a handkerchief, and on the top of the vehicle, I think -it possible it might have escaped detection, had it not, on hearing -its master’s voice, croaked out lustily in sound English, a desire -for some hot brandy and water, bestowing at the same time some hearty -curses upon an imaginary waiter. _We_ exploded with laughter, whilst -the _chef de douane_, who was ignorant from whence the strange voice -proceeded, glanced around from under his shaggy eye-brows, and soon -detected the hitherto unnoticed package. To hand it down was but the -work of a moment, but the officer who untied the wrapper, received a -bite that he would long remember. Poll’s vocal powers expanded with the -restoration of daylight, and no sooner did she see her master, than -she treated us with a variation from “Merrily danced,” in so shrill -and amusing a key, that good humour was restored on all hands saving -that of the bitten searcher. Captain ---- having paid the necessary -tax, and reconsigned his loquacious bird to the roof, we again resumed -our journey, reaching Padua at five in the afternoon. We drove to the -“Principe Carlo,” a hotel overlooking the Prato della Valle, where the -accommodation is excellent. It is, however, at rather an inconvenient -distance from the omnibus station, and busy portion of the city, for -alas! the learned repose of “Fair Padua, nursery of Arts,” is now -disturbed by the shriek of the locomotive, and the rumbling of railway -traffic. - -By the time our dinner was over it was quite dark, and we could -therefore see little of this venerable city. We walked to the Caffé -Pedrocchi, unquestionably the finest in Europe: no expense seems to -have been spared in its decorations, which are of a style more suited -to a regal dwelling than a place of public resort. It is one glare of -mirrors, gilding, and polished marbles. Many are the stories current -respecting the origin of the wealth which enabled the Signor Pedrocchi -to raise so gorgeous a palace. Certain it is, that from a state of -comparative poverty, he all at once leapt into possession of a large -sum of money, and commenced the erection of the new Caffé, paying his -workmen in good old Venetian sequins, a fact which led his friends to -infer, that in demolishing the old establishment, he had stumbled upon -one of those fabulous monsters, a crock of real gold. This is possibly -the fact, but it is to be regretted that he placed this monument of his -good luck in so mean a situation, where its architectural merits, (if -it possess any!) are very much in the shade. - -We took the first train the next morning to Maestre, from whence -we embarked in a gondola-omnibus for the Venetian custom-house. -The transition from the main land to the marshy Lagune, is almost -imperceptible, and in the space of a few short months we shall be -fizzed all the way into Venice, and this most beautiful of cities, this -“Sea Cybele” will then have lost half its romance. It is to be hoped -that this useful, but unpicturesque innovation will never be suffered -to encroach beyond the outermost limits of the city, and that Venice -may lose none of its originality by the somewhat unnecessary extension -of the railway across the lagune. After passing through the Dogana, and -bidding “_a rividerci_,” to our companions of the vettura, my friend -and I hired a gondola to convey us to the “Leone Bianco,” a hotel at -which I had passed a few pleasant days some eight years before. - -In the evening we walked to the Piazza di San Marco, as the surest -spot to meet with such of our acquaintance as might have arrived from -Rome. It was unnecessary to make an elaborate search,--a white hat, -whose capacious leaf might have roused envy in the breast of a West -India planter, shone out conspicuously from among the thickly occupied -benches of the “Florian,” and revealed to us the presence of our friend -Mack, who had quitted Rome some weeks before us, on a summer-tour. -This gentleman informed us where we should at once find apartments, -and introduced us to his landlord, the Signor Raffaelli, living in a -commodious house, at the Campo San Vio, about a stone’s-throw from -the Accademia, on the Grand Canal. We rowed thither the next day, and -taking possession of our rooms, had time to look about us. Not only is -Venice unlike any other city in the world, in respect of its peculiar -position; but every thing Venetian seems to possess a distinct and -particular charm, that indefinable _non so che_, belonging to _it_ -only, even to the most ordinary common-places of life. No description -could arouse in the mind of one who has not visited Venice, any -adequate idea of the feelings of delight and enthusiasm excited by -all around. These feelings are increased rather than diminished by a -lengthened stay. Moore must have viewed Venice through a pair of very -dull spectacles indeed when he wrote about-- - - “---- her true, real, dismal state, - Her mansions closed and desolate, - Her foul canals, exhaling wide - Such fetid airs as-- * * - * * * * * - Seem like a city where the pest - Is holding her last visitation.” - -An occasional bad odour may certainly be detected in some of the more -obscure canals during hot weather, but there can be no reason for -supposing that this was not always the case, even in the palmiest days -of the Republic.[37] If we pitch poetry aside, and come to plain matter -of fact, we shall find, that whatever Venice may once have been, it is -still a port of very considerable importance. Merchant vessels from all -parts of the world are to be found at the quays of San Giorgio and the -Giudecca, whilst a brisk trade is kept up between it and the other -ports of the Mediterranean. Nor are its manufactures to be forgotten; -the busy furnaces of Murano supply the whole world with glass beads -and dolls’ eyes; the region of the Rialto furnishes half Italy with -jewellery, and the glittering Merceria dazzles the eye with its costly -wares, and reeks with all the varied odours of extravagant perfumery. - -It was on the second-floor of the Casa Raffaelli, that Luish and I were -domiciled. A large saloon with a spacious balcony overhanging the Grand -Canal, into which room all the other apartments opened, served as the -_sala commune_ for ourselves and the family of our landlord. This, as -well as our bed-rooms, was paved with a plum-pudding-like scaliguola, -which ensured a far cooler and cleaner floor than the dusty carpets of -Rome, which usually have an underlayer of straw or hay to preserve them -from wear against the hard brick or concrete. The room which fell to -my lot, had a side view over the Campo or Square of San Vio, and the -window commanded a good stretch of the Grand Canal, in the direction of -the Rialto. My first care was to inquire for Herr T----g, the doctor -to whom I had a letter of introduction, and I was agreeably surprised -to find that he lived exactly opposite to us, on the other side the -Canal, and that there was a _traghetto_ or ferry, between the two -houses. I paid him an early visit during a paroxysm of rheumatic pain, -and though he did not recommend me to have recourse to mud-baths, he -gave me some hope of relief. - -The next preliminary was the procuring of a _carta di sicurezza_, -without which the stranger in an Italian town would soon find himself -in difficulty. It serves as a local passport, (the original document -remaining in the care of the police authorities,) and requires a -renewal every month. In order to obtain this, it was necessary that -Luish and myself should possess a recommendation from some resident in -the city, an obligation which was very kindly rendered by Mr. H., the -American Consul. - -As the Herr T----g’s treatment prohibited the use of more exercise -than was necessary, I hired a gondola and _barcaruolo_, paying a -Napoleon a-week for the boat and the man’s time. I was fortunate in -my selection, inasmuch as I found Antonio steady, honest and skilful, -and his gondola one of the very best description. It is only those -who have tried it that can imagine the luxury of skimming the smooth -water in a well-managed gondola. No other species of locomotion -is to be compared to it. I almost lived in one, and during the -course of my stay in Venice, there were very few of its canals that -I did not thoroughly explore. Securely moored to one or other of -the quaint-looking posts, which form so prominent a feature in the -foregrounds of Prout and Canaletti, I passed the mornings in sketching. -And what spot can furnish more beautiful and diversified subjects than -Venice, where every turn reveals some fresh scene, and every canal -abounds with palaces and churches, or picturesque masses of building. -The chimney-pots alone are a study, and the genius of John of Bologna -is apparent, even in the knockers and scrapers at the street doors. The -former were the peculiar delight of my companion Luish, who passed all -his mornings on the roofs of the Venetian palaces, perched astride on -the leads, or half concealed in an eave-gutter from his fellow-mortals, -himself exposed to all the fierceness of a vertical sun. The “_piombi_” -of Silvio Pellico were nothing to the voluntary martyrdom of my -friend, who daguerreotyped all the chimney-pots in “New Tyre,” and -took portraits of all such knockers as had escaped the wrench of -his countrymen, for, in shame be it spoken, the mania for midnight -fooleries has extended even to the shores of the Adriatic. - -I was returning one morning from sketching, when I was surprised, and -almost alarmed by the apparition of our facetious friend D., who had -just arrived from the South. He had already got into apartments on the -Grand Canal, with two brother artists who had accompanied him, and -seemed as fully bent as ever on the perpetration of new jokes. Stepping -into his gondola, which was a peculiarly neat one, and manned by two -red-scarfed Gondolieri in livery, we rowed off to the Accademia, where -we hoped to fall in with Mack and others. This collection contains -the finest specimens of the Venetian school of painting, famous more -particularly for its perfection of colour. Of this school, Titian is -the chief ornament. At the commencement of the sixteenth century, and -before his extraordinary talent was much known, this great painter held -an office under the Ducal government, and painted the portraits of -several successive doges. One of Barberigo, a Venetian noble, is said -to have first established Titian’s fame, and this at the early age of -eighteen, but it was not until he had secured the patronage of Alfonso, -Duke of Ferrara, that he began to derive any pecuniary benefit from -his works, and even this was so limited that he was always poor. It -remained for Charles the Fifth, who honoured Titian with his personal -friendship to establish thoroughly the renown of the great painter, -and at the court of that monarch, he passed many years of his life, -returning in his old age to his native land, where he was cut off by -the plague which visited Venice in 1576. - -The “Accademia dei belli arti,” contains Titian’s most celebrated -picture--the Assumption of the Virgin. This is unquestionably one -of the finest productions in the world, perhaps second only to the -“Transfiguration” of Raffaelle in the Vatican. Many artists were -engaged in making copies of this painting at the time of our visit. -Most of these were very faithful imitations of the great original, but -we were more particularly struck with one by an American artist, whose -picture when finished, was to serve as an altar-piece in his native -town of Cincinnati. The accuracy of the drawing was extreme, while the -colouring of such portions as were finished was the admiration of all, -and K---- had seldom the satisfaction of pursuing his art in peace and -quiet. The facilities afforded to young artists at Venice, in the way -of copying, are very great, and might be advantageously adopted by the -authorities of some other and larger galleries in the north of Italy. - -Besides the works of Titian, there are pictures by Paul Veronese, and -Giorgione, Pordenone and Tintoretto, and a host of other painters of -this particular school, which it is needless to describe. There are -also many private galleries in Venice, all of which possess more or -less attraction for the lovers of the art, and are easily accessible. - -Having devoted an hour or two to the _Belli Arti_, I followed D. to -his gondola, and was not a little surprised as we passed the soldiers -on duty there, to see them formally present arms. Never before had the -“_cinque cento_” beaver, and black velvet paletot produced so great -a sensation. I had remarked a similar proceeding as we ascended the -steps leading to the Accademia, but concluded that some great man had -passed up unnoticed by us. The salute was now undoubtedly intended -for ourselves, but what could possibly induce it. D. declared he had -been treated in a similar way at the Police-office, and some other -places, and thought the fellows were trying to make a fool of him. -The cause was soon explained. The gondola which he had hired, at the -recommendation of the waiter at his hotel, belonged to the Principessa -G----, who had quitted Venice a few weeks previously on a journey, and -the plate-glass windows were blazoned with the arms of her family. The -mistake never occurred when the windows were not drawn out. It appears -that when a family leaves the city, their gondolas, instead of being -locked up in the boat-house, are let out on hire by their retainers: -this is sometimes done with the consent of the owner, as in the present -instance, but it more frequently happens that the servants turn the -practice to their own account. - -The _Passeggiata_, or promenade, is an interesting sight, and one may -there witness the perfection of gondola management. These occur usually -twice in the week, the spot chosen being either the clear portion of -the Giudecca, opposite the Riva delle Zattere, or under the public -gardens, in the Canal of St. Marc. The surface of the water is then -covered with the noiseless and graceful vehicles of Venice, whose -sombre-looking coverings have been removed, that the fair occupants may -the more readily be seen and admired. Here also is the open _barca_, -with its striped canopy of red and white, contrasting pleasantly with -the sable hue of the old regime, whose colour no one has yet been -sufficiently bold to depart from. All the boats are rowed by two men, -as none would appear at the _passeggiata_ with a single gondolier. -Speed is a great desideratum, and all is rushing and gliding--the -_barcaruoli_ seem in their own proper element, and vie with each other -in parading their skill, cutting and cleaving with their sharp prows, -or dashing along in one mass, like a vast floating raft of gondolas. -The forward rower having no room to ply his oar, quietly unships it, -and leaves to the other the task of keeping up the motion, and now the -forced propinquity to the fair occupants of other gondolas is agreeably -perplexing, and a severe tax is imposed upon the watchfulness of -maiden aunts, and sharp-sighted duennas, (who can detect in a moment -the faintest _occhiata_,) for the hook of a walking-cane, if used -as a grapnel, will keep you firmly alongside, and within whispering -distance, of the fairest belle of Venice. At the turning point, all is -confusion, as each gondolier is striving to tack as short as possible, -and get the lead. The spray raised by the hundreds of busy oars, -glistens in the rays of the declining sun, and splashes unceremoniously -into the faces of the _promeneurs_. The strains of Mercadante and Verdi -mingle with the salt breeze of the lagune, which may here be enjoyed -in all its purity. It is untainted even by the presence of a solitary -cigar. No one smokes at the _passeggiata_; it is not _the thing_. And -then we all get fixed again into a mass, but on looking round, we find -we have lost the fair face which had so charmed us during the last -_course_. Our next-door neighbours are, on one side, the great French -lady, who takes four daily breakfasts at the Florian, and on the other, -a boat-load of Austrian officers, who are enjoying a forced reprieve -from their pipes. The walking-cane is at a discount, so giving a wink -to Antonio, and a sly push to the gondolas of the officers and fat -lady, we hasten to take up a more advantageous position. - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[37] For many months I had rooms in a court opening out of the -Frezzaria, one of the most thickly populated thoroughfares of Venice, -and although my bed-room looked out over a canal of most questionable -appearance, I cannot recollect having ever remarked any unpleasant -exhalation. - - - - -CHAPTER XXIII. - - THE CAFFES OF VENICE--THE “FLORIAN”--THE “IMPERATORE - D’AUSTRIA”--PIAZZA--VENETIAN HAWKERS--MUSICIANS--MERCHANTS - OF CAROMEL--THE SCHIAVONI--ITALIAN CARDS--THE BIRRARIE--SAN - MOISE--AN ACCORDEON PLAYER--QUINTAVALLE--QUEER - FISH--DINING-ROOMS--SERENADES--NIGHT ON THE GRAND CANAL--THE - RIALTO--SAN LAZZARO--MALAMOCCO--CHIOGGIA--CAPTAIN ROVERE IN DANGER. - - -As I have devoted some few pages to the _trattorie_ and coffee-houses -of Rome, it would hardly be fair to leave those of Venice unnoticed. -Every one knows the peculiar appearance of the Piazza di San Marco, -with its oriental-looking church and lofty bell-tower, and its rows of -glittering arcades. Under one of these porticoes, whose massive columns -support the building called the _Procuratie Nuove_, is the Caffé -Florian, a house which has been but once closed for the night, during -the last hundred years. It has indeed no doors, unless a few glass -frames, to keep out the cold winds of winter, can be so denominated. -This is the quietest and most fashionable of the Venetian Caffés, and -being also the most expensive, is much patronized by the English, -and others who visit the city. There are others on each side of the -Florian, and in other parts of the square, but none of equal repute. -Near the south-west corner of the Piazza, is a modest-looking little -house, with the imposing title of the “Imperatore d’Austria.” I tried -almost all the caffés in the square before I could make up my mind -which was the most eligible, and decided at last upon taking my morning -meal at the quarters of the great Ferdinando, where I generally fell in -with some one or other of my acquaintance. - -The Piazza di San Marco, is the most agreeable of breakfast parlours: -turn which way you will, something amusing is sure to present itself. -Itinerant vendors of odd wares wait upon you every two or three -minutes, and no sooner are you fairly seated, and commencing the -perusal of some article in the day’s journal, than a dirty-looking -fellow flings at your feet a large wooden box, and keeps a steady eye -on your boots. This is your Venetian shoeblack. Then a handsome woman -with a wide Leghorn hat, presents you with three pinks and a daisy, -tied up with white thread, and retires with a low curtsey. This is -your purveyor of flowers during the period of your stay, and clever -indeed will you be if you can escape from Venice without paying a -heavy flower-rate. Next comes a tray-full of shells and seaweed, -with an announcement of “_Doe Zwanziger tooto_,”[38] on the part of -a half-drunken old sailor, who will never cease to dunn and bore you -until you have either purchased or capsized his trumpery. Do not -think for a moment that you will be allowed to swallow that coffee in -peace,--the short lady who has just turned the corner is the Jewess -Carolina, and you instinctively feel that you are victimized to the -extent of a cotton shirt and two or three handkerchiefs. This is your -hosier and draper, “by appointment.” A cigar is next thrust close to -your face, with a confidential whisper of “_Contrabbando Signore!_” -This is your cigar merchant, who grows, manufactures, and brands his -own _tobaccos (!)_ in the neighbouring island of the Giudecca. - -In the evening you will find that most of the hawkers have disappeared, -although their places are usurped by others, whose _mestieri_ are to -some, quite as annoying. The new comers are for the most part musical, -and fill up the interludes between the performances of the Kinski band, -though there is one young lady, who presumes upon the strength of a -shrill, false voice, and tinny-sounding guitar, to introduce a Venetian -canzonetta into one ear, whilst “I Lombardi,” or “Nabuco,” are poured -into the other. No sooner have the band finished the last piece on the -programme, than a flute and two fiddles enter upon the scene. One of -the latter, the violino primo, is exceedingly clever, and plays all -over the instrument, and behind his back, and _looks_, and I have no -doubt fancies that he _is_, a second Paganini. At all events, he is an -admirable violinist, and if his harmony is correct, his marvellous ways -of producing it are hardly to be censured. His companion is a young -girl, who is also a clever performer, though to my mind, the violin -seems out of place when in the hands of a female. - -I must not omit to mention the vendors of _Caromel_, who glide about -the caffés in the evening, with large dishes of this really eatable -commodity. It consists of various sorts of ripe fruits, coated with -a transparent covering of sugar, and that your finger-ends may not -come in contact with the candy, the merchant presents you with a large -tooth-pick of lance-wood, with which you impale a peach, plum, or bunch -of grapes, as the case may be, paying about one halfpenny _per pezzo_. -The scene in the Piazza about the hour of twilight, is very unique and -striking,--the centre of the square and the arcades which surround it -on three sides, serve as a promenade, the latter being brilliantly -lighted with gas, both from the shops and caffés, and from lamps hung -at the centre of each arch. At the “Florian,” and the “Militaire,” -immediately opposite, there are chairs provided for such as prefer -listening to the regimental music, and cooling themselves with _acqua -marena_.[39] Nearer the Piazzetta is a small caffé frequented almost -exclusively by Greeks and Smyrniotes, whose outrè costume contrasts -strangely with the less showy dress of the Italians. These get away as -far as they can from the music, which hath but little charms for them. -Cherrystick pipes, and the rattle of dominoes are far more to their -taste, and in these do they indulge, until the approach of midnight -recalls them to their vessels. - -Let us now wander from the Piazzetta, to the neighbouring _Riva dei -Schiavoni_, where as soon as we have passed the Hotel Danielli, we -shall come upon a scene quite as original and no less amusing than that -of San Marco. Here is a whole host of coffee-shops of a second-rate -character, frequented by mariners, and the lower order of Venetians. -Forms are arranged under awnings of canvas, which serve as a shelter -both from the fierce sun, and the cold sea wind. Here also may be seen -the _caromel_ merchant, but his appearance is less scrupulously clean -than that of old Gigi of the Piazza, whose jean jacket and white apron -are upon a par with the quality of his fruit. On the Schiavoni there -are little open-air theatres and peep-shows, and Cassandro goes through -his performance many times every evening, to amuse a laughing crowd -of old women and boys. At the open doors of the marine store dealers, -whole families play at cards, and squabble over greasy effigies of -swords and spoons, instead of spades and diamonds, totally heedless of -the crowd of persons who pass by them in a continued stream, between -San Marco and the busy neighbourhood of Castello and the docks. - -In connexion with other places of public resort, I may mention the -_Birrarie_ or supper-gardens, so much frequented by the middle class -of Venetians. Of these, perhaps the most patronized is that of the -Campo San Moisè, where, on a fine evening, the beer-shop of the Saint -is filled with respectable citizens, and their wives and daughters. -Venice is famed for its good beer, which, by the way, is a commodity -very different from that brewed by us, being there a wholesome and -refreshing beverage and used only as such. The Birraria of San Moisè, -is a little plot of ground entirely hemmed in by surrounding houses, -and ornamented with trellis-work and creepers. The walls are painted -in the quaint style of fresco, peculiar to the gardens of Italy, -representing lakes and mountains, and fierce bandits peeping over -rocks, with delightful villas and terraces, and gigantic vases of -aloes. At the far end is a Roman scene, painted by Signor Caffi, which -is very cleverly executed, and throws into the shade the fabulous -monstrosities of the side walls. Here one may meet with the _bistecca -Inglese_, intended, as its name implies, to represent the genuine -beef-steak, and is invariably the first item mentioned by the waiter, -to every customer in a straw hat and a blouse. It ranks in the same -class with the French “biftek,” and is served in molten butter. The -musicians I have already mentioned, as well as a host of singers and -improvisatori, make the round of the Birrarie, when they have finished -with the Piazza, and I noticed for many weeks among other retailers of -sweet sounds, an accordéon player who had arrived as near to perfection -as the powers of his instrument would allow. I had the curiosity one -evening to question him, and discovered to my astonishment, that he -had manufactured it entirely himself. He had been bound apprentice -to a barber in Padua, and had taken as a bad debt from some brother -chin-scraper, an imperfect and damaged accordeon, one of the earliest -that had found its way across the Alps from Germany. Thenceforward his -whole time was devoted to the study of his new instrument. Having a -quick ear and ready hand, he soon managed to repair it, and running -away from his master, who was in truth quite tired of his perpetual -grinding, he played about in the streets till he had earned enough to -buy some tools, and then came to Venice, where he shortly manufactured -a perfect instrument. I visited him at his house in the Castello, and -found him busy at work, and to judge from the neatness of his rooms, -and the appearance of his wife and children, I should say he blows his -bellows at the various Birrarie to very good purpose. - -The Blackwall of Venice is a spot called Quintavalle, where, at a -dirty little house, close to the shore, the lovers of fish may find -it in great variety. Sardelli will be found an excellent substitute -for white-bait, and require neither punch, nor brown bread and butter, -while the _Calamajo_ is a delicacy which may be had here in perfection. -This curious fish is caught in great quantity in the lagunes, and at -the Lido. I have seen whole acres of them hung up to dry in the sun, -while the ground has been stained black with their liquid seppia. -We generally repaired to Quintavalle, after any little squall or -interval of bad weather, at which times fish were plentiful, and not -unfrequently would the landlord astonish us with the sight of some -extraordinary monster of the deep, which had been driven into the -shallows, and found its way into the nets with the smaller fry. The old -man is a collector of these odd fish, which he preserves in spirits, to -adorn his rooms. - -No one would willingly leave his hotel to dine in a Venetian trattoria, -saving for the sake of curiosity, as their appearance is, for the most -part, anything but inviting. But with those that betake themselves -to furnished apartments, and have neither kitchen nor cook, the -case is different, and we on the far side of the Grand Canal, were -necessitated either to get our meal at the cook-shop, or go without -it. We tried, I believe, nearly all the eating-houses in Venice, and -carried our researches to an extent, that in such a cause, would have -been perfectly absurd, had we not, during these voyages of discovery, -very thoroughly explored the city. We got, indeed, little other benefit -by our trouble, as no restaurant proved so clean and comfortable, as -that of the Caffé Haus, in a little square just out of St. Marc’s, and -exactly opposite the house once occupied by Canova. - -Shortly after my arrival in Venice, I was present at a grand -passeggiata, got up by the Italian artists, in honour of Prince -Frederic, and the Due de Modene. These nocturnal serenades occur only -in the season, when Venice is full of visitors, and on this occasion, -the display was more than usually grand, on account of the exalted -rank of the strangers who were to assist. A large barge, suitably -fitted up with seats, and having on board the necessary accommodation -for a portion of the Kinski band, was towed from the Piazzetta at -about ten o’clock, into the Grand Canal, surrounded by some hundred -of gondolas. The night was literally as dark as pitch, but we had no -sooner passed the Dogana, than a light was exhibited from the prow of -the barge, which would almost have shamed the “Bude.” At the same time -arose a burst of music, which re-echoed from the palaces on either -side, attracting their inmates to the balconies. The noble Church of -the “_Salute_” was illumined from the water’s edge to the figure of -Charity surmounting the cupola, the more prominent portions of its -architectural features, standing out in bright relief from the black -shadows. But the effect was of short duration: in another minute we -were again enveloped in the darkness, relieved at intervals by a blaze -of light from the palace windows. - -As we passed up the canal, our already large fleet of gondolas was -increased by the accession of others, which put off from all quarters -to join us. Vocal serenades were performed under particular windows, -by a chorus of well-accorded voices, and the famous _cantatrice_ La -Frezzolina Poggi, was favoured with one of particular brilliancy, as -well as a display of various coloured lights, which created a beautiful -effect upon the surrounding objects. Continuing our course, we paused -under the Rialto, illuminating its spacious arch with a blaze of -fireworks, and causing it to resound with so formidable and doubly -encored a _barcarole_, that I fear some of the more quietly disposed -of that region, must have thrust their heads under the clothes, and -grumbled “_Seccatura!_” even if they did not go so far as to wish us -all consigned to the same watery depth as the fastidious Count in -“Beppo.” Having made the _giro_ of the Grand Canal, and back again to -the Piazzetta, those on the barge adjourned to their supper, and Luish -and I to our beds. - -Venice is certainly the very spot of all others for serenades, and a -summer night seldom passes, but the twanging of guitars and mandolins -may be heard in her quiet canals. If the echoes of Tasso are no longer -extant, the gondoliers of the present day are equally familiar with -“_Com’e gentil!_” and “_Or’ che in cielo_,” one or other of which -generally “meets the ear” of any one dwelling upon the Grand Canal, in -the course of an evening. No matter how poor the voice, or wretched -the melody, the Venetian lady never fails to acknowledge with courtesy -the compliment thus intended, unless indeed, as sometimes happens, the -serenade emanates from a pair of lungs too palpably coarse and plebeian -to arouse any feeling of pleasure or obligation, in which case the -nocturnal disturber either exhausts himself before bare walls and dark -balconies, or is unhesitatingly told to _move on_. - -During my sojourn in Venice, I made, with others of my friends, many -excursions to the neighbouring islands. We visited Murano and its -wonderful glass works, and the more interesting San Lazzaro, with -its Armenian convent and happy brotherhood. It was here that Lord -Byron spent a considerable portion of his time in the study of the -Armenian language, and the brethren still speak of him in terms of much -enthusiasm. We saw the library and printing office, and walked through -the flower gardens, enjoying the delicious breeze, and the views -which greeted us on all sides, of the bright islands of the lagune. An -expedition which we made to Chioggia, a town so famous in the earlier -annals of the Republic, and whose unintelligible patois, Goldoni has -placed in the mouths of some of his characters, was a more formidable -affair, as we had to make up a party, and charter a sailing barque -with four gondolieri. Quitting the piazzetta at six, we soon passed -the island of Malamocco, and coasted along under the extraordinary -breakwater reaching from that island to Chioggia, a lasting monument of -the spirit of enterprise possessed by the early Venetians. The voyage -of eighteen miles occupied about five hours, and at eleven we landed -at the grass-covered quay of the old town, now the abode of fishermen -and a few little shopkeepers. Had our party been a show of wild beasts, -we could scarcely have excited greater wonder among the Chioggians, of -whom a posse accompanied us in our ramble through the town, watching -our every movement as though we had suddenly dropped in among them -from some other sphere. Nor were they to us less objects of curiosity; -their quaint dresses and primitive appearance were very striking, and -our friend Harlen found in the market-place some excellent subjects -for his pencil. We searched in vain for an osteria where we might get -something by way of lunch, but entering a house where a dry bush was -hanging over the door-way, we found a good fire, and there fried some -fish which we had purchased in the market. Whilst making preparations -for our departure, we were greatly amused with the dexterity displayed -by some little urchins, who dived for _centesimi_ or halfpence, and -staid so long under water, that they seemed amphibious. We had a crowd -of a score or more, many of whom took to the water without waiting to -throw off their clothing. He who was fortunate enough to find a copper, -was compelled to swim away to a distance to hide his treasure, pursued -by a shoal of his companions, who pressed after him like dogs in an -otter hunt. - -We had a brisk and favourable breeze on our return homewards, which -filled our large sail, and bore us merrily along. The water looked so -blue and tempting, that a dip was decided on, and as most of our party -were good swimmers, they unhesitatingly plunged in from the roof of -the covered cabin, having previously ascertained that the depth was -sufficient for diving. Captain Rovére, who remained in somewhat longer -than the rest, was unfortunately seized with cramp, and disappeared -before he could call out for aid. He was at once rescued from his -dangerous situation, by Flake, who had been watching him, and who, -half-dressed, jumped in again to his assistance. We reached Venice -about dusk. - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[38] “Two Zwanzigers the lot.” - -[39] A drink made of cherries, capillaire and iced water. - - - - -CHAPTER XXIV. - - THE DUCAL PALACE--BRIDGE OF SIGHS--THE POZZI--CAMPANILE--VIEW - FROM THE SUMMIT--SWIFTS--THE PIGEONS OF ST. MARKS--DEPARTURE - FROM VENICE--THE ANCONA STEAMER--THE ADRIATIC--VICISSITUDES OF - A SEA-VOYAGE--THE UNFORTUNATE FRIAR--POLA--ITS ANTIQUITIES--THE - HOTEL--ANCONA--THE CUSTOM-HOUSE--DISAPPOINTMENT--A VILLAGE IN THE - APPENINES--FULIGNO--ASSISI--THE BOARDING-HOUSE--SAN FRANCESCO--MUSICAL - SHOEMAKERS--SPOLETO--MY COUNTRYWOMAN--TERNI--ROME. - - -I shall not describe the Ducal Palace with its _pozzi_ and _piombi_, -its magnificent staircase and the Lion’s mouth, and the once gloomy -chambers of the Inquisition. All these have been too well handled by -professed tourists, to require any further observation on my part, and -I doubt not there are many living within five miles of St. Paul’s, -who possess a much clearer idea of the interior of San Marco, with -its apostle screen, gilt mosaics, and uneven pavement, than of the -noble monument to their own Sir Christopher. Suffice it to say, that -in company of some relatives whom I met in Venice, whose curiosity was -proof against difficulties that would altogether have taken _me_ aback, -I succeeded not merely in peeping through the key-hole of the fatal -door, but in standing on the Bridge of Sighs. To effect this negatively -desirable object, we were compelled to penetrate to the bureau of some -functionary, holding a situation in the prison on the other side, and -having secured an old man with the key, we retraced our steps to the -Palace, and passed through the portal. - -The Ponte dei Sospiri consists of two distinct passages: by one the -accused was led before the Inquisitors, from whose presence he was -either conducted through the other to be strangled, or consigned by -the brutal and cowardly policy of that dark tribunal, to the perpetual -damps of the _Pozzi_, or subaqueous dungeons of the Ducal Palace. The -number of those who left the inquisition to be restored to the light of -day, was limited indeed: mercy or pardon were not among the attributes -of the so called, “Justice of St. Mark,” and the miserable accused -never experienced the benefit of a doubt. We shuddered in the state -dungeons, and crept through the damp and tortuous passages, gazing with -feelings of awe and horror at the iron grating, where so many innocent -victims had gasped the last unavailing appeal for mercy, at the hands -of their fellow-men. - -It is well worth a little trouble to ascend the Campanile of St. -Mark’s, from whose summit the view is unique, and should you happen -to be upon the platform at the hour of sunset, you will allow it to -be so to a very _striking_ degree. The noise of the monstrous bells -is indeed almost deafening. Although Venice is intersected with small -canals, in every possible direction, it is extraordinary that but one -is visible from the summit of the bell-tower, a fact only accounted for -by the close proximity of the houses. Of the Grand Canal there are many -glimpses, while the various islands of the Lagune are seen from hence -to great advantage. All day and night there are watchmen at the top of -the Campanile, whose duty it is to give the alarm, in case of fire, -and from their great elevation, they are able at once to judge of its -precise locality. These worthies employ their leisure time in letting -fly small pieces of white paper, in order to observe the gambols of -the swifts, which are certainly most amusing. No sooner is a piece let -off, than it is pursued by a lot of these little birds, who appear to -scuffle and fight for its possession most lustily. Occasionally it is -impaled by the sharp beak of one of them, and thus forms a frill around -its neck, which leads to its destruction. Its efforts to disengage -itself are unavailing. No sooner has it donned its fatal necklace, than -a crowd of its fellows enter on the pursuit, and the poor bird is then -either pecked to death, or drops from sheer exhaustion on one of the -neighbouring roofs. - -The pigeons of St. Mark’s are proverbially respected, and many legends -are told concerning them. Some one, it appears, left as a legacy, a -sum of money to be exclusively devoted to the purchase of food for -these Penates of the Venetians, which are exceedingly numerous, and -swarm upon the roofs of the Church of St. Marc, and adjacent buildings. -They are fed every day precisely at noon, and no sooner do the bronze -figures on the Clock Tower swing round upon their pivots, in readiness -for the first stroke of twelve, than the air is partially darkened -by the clouds of pigeons, that sweep over the square, hitching and -perching upon the ledges and window-sills of the Procuratie Veechie. -Grain is then scattered from an open window, and although the sight is -of every day occurrence, the table-d’hôte of the pigeons is watched -with eagerness by the surrounding crowd. We were much struck with one -circumstance in connexion with these birds. On a certain day in the -year, all the clocks in the city are silent, and we expected that the -pigeons would have been nonplused. Never were we more mistaken. No -bell sounded, nor did the figures move, yet precisely as the gold -hands on the dial of the Clock Tower reached their zenith, the pigeons, -whose stomachs were not to be cheated, were seen flocking in from all -quarters to their usual meal. - -The weather becoming cooler, and having derived considerable benefit -from the advice and attention of Dr. T----g, I began to think of -turning my face once more towards Rome, and never having been at -Ancona, resolved to take advantage of a little steamer plying between -that port and Venice two or three times a month. My friend Luish had -already set off with some acquaintance for Florence, and most of my -other associates were dispersed in different directions. I therefore -took leave of such few as remained, and engaged my berth at an office -in the Piazza. It appeared that I had chosen an unfavourable time for -making a sea-trip, as the weather had been for some days very stormy, -and on repairing on board, I was told by the captain, that he could -not venture to put out to sea that day. This happened three times in -succession, until I began to regret that I had paid my fare, for I -know few things more annoying than to be at loose ends in a place, -with your portmanteau packed, your bedroom let to another occupant, -and yourself uncertain at what moment you may be called upon to join -your ship. On the third day we got off at the hour of noon, with about -twenty-five passengers, all bound for Ancona, the majority of whom were -priests and monks; but there was also a German artist with his family, -of the name of Heinrich, whom I found very agreeable. We had not been -long in the Adriatic, before our captain seemed bitterly to regret -that he had left the friendly shallows of the lagunes. Our ill-built -little steamer, rolled uneasily in the heavy sea, and as night closed -in, we had anything but a pleasant prospect before us. Most of the -passengers were soon rendered insensible to the peril of our situation: -prostrated by sea-sickness they lay stretched upon the deck, careless -alike of the combat of the elements, and of the torrents of salt water -which swept over us, and poured down the badly-closed hatchways. Not -being myself a sufferer in this respect, I was enabled to render some -little assistance to the wife and little girls of the Herr Heinrich, -and managed with some difficulty to get them stowed away, three in a -berth, in one of the upper bed-places. The sailors declared that the -monks, who had betaken themselves to their beads, were the cause of -our ill-luck, while the captain, who appeared a poor weak-minded man, -lost all command over himself and ship, and indulged in deep potations. -The sailors, however, stuck unflinchingly to their duty, and in this -state of affairs I went below to see if I could get any rest. The water -was rolling about in the cabin, and hat-boxes and other light packages -were carried hither and thither in the utmost confusion. The pitching -of the vessel was quite fearful, and even had my fears allowed of -my sleeping, any attempt thereat would have been absurd. I squeezed -myself, however, into a berth, and had only just done so, when, by a -sudden lurch, an enormously exaggerated friar, who had been lying in a -state of semi-torpor immediately above me, toppled out of his berth, -and upsetting in his descent the table, which was loaded with clothes -and other articles, splashed heavily into the water beneath. A minute -sooner, and I must have been annihilated. How the good man had ever -managed to reach the berth from whence he had fallen, I cannot tell. -But it was no time for reflection. Though a little stunned, the poor -friar got upon all fours, in an attempt to find his legs, but fright -and sickness had rendered him weak, and losing his equilibrium, he was -speedily carried beyond my reach by another lurch, and as I had no mind -to exchange my comparatively comfortable position for a wrestling-match -with a sick Capuchin, in half-a-fathom of dirty water, I waited until -a third lurch brought him back again, when I grappled him, and held on -tight till he righted. - -Whilst engaged in these little recreations, I suddenly became sensible -that we had got into smooth water, and with the pleasing anticipation -that we might by accident have hit Ancona, I was hastening on deck, -when a slight shock which followed the stoppage of the engines, set us -all off rolling again. Day was now just beginning to dawn, and as the -light increased, a beautiful and well-sheltered bay was revealed to -our view. The sailors had run us on a sandy shore, within sight of the -town of Pola, on the coast of Istria, and I began to think the wind -that blows nobody any good, must indeed be an ill one, inasmuch as many -travellers have gone scores of miles out of the regular beaten track, -to visit the ancient city, near which we were now safely stranded. The -sight of terra-firma restored spirits to our whole party, though they -were most of them considerably astonished at finding themselves as far -as ever from Ancona. As soon as we could land, a proceeding rendered -easy by the assistance of some of the good folk from Pola, we walked to -the town, and entering by one accord its little church, each in his own -way returned thanks for our deliverance from the perils of the deep. - -Being told that our vessel would not again put to sea, until the -swell had somewhat abated, we had ample time before us to view the -antiquities of Pola. The amphitheatre or arena, is the great lion of -the place, and stands about half-a-mile from the town, close to the -shore, which in many places is rocky and precipitous. The outer wall -of this relic of Roman magnificence, remains perfect, evincing the -great extent of the building; but the interior is nearly all in ruins, -saving a few of the masses of masonry, which formerly supported the -raised seats. The whole interior is clogged up with heaps of rubbish, -overgrown in parts with weeds and brambles, and possesses a most -forlorn appearance. Viewed from the outside, the arena forms a splendid -ruin, the effect being much enhanced by its peculiar and picturesque -situation. Pola seems to have been once fortified with a strong wall, -of which the remains are tolerably perfect in places, and there is -also a Roman arch in good preservation, called, I believe, the Porta -Aurea, but the worthy people of the place seem to know very little -indeed either about its history, or the remains, which alone render it -of consequence in the eyes of the few travellers who visit it. There -is a miserable inn in the little piazza, but the sudden irruption of -five-and-twenty hungry steam-boat passengers, whose appetites had been -whetted to an alarming degree, by the inside-out experience of the -preceding night, caused such a run upon the eatables, that by the time -we had finished our breakfast, there was a partial famine in the place, -and we had to make our dinner off fish and vegetables. - -At five o’clock, our Captain, who had recovered his erring senses, -recalled us on board, but it was ten at night before the steam was up, -and our little vessel once more fairly afloat. Our voyage to Ancona, -though stormy enough, proved less boisterous than that of the night -before, and I believe we were all very glad to turn our backs upon the -still agitated water. - -At the custom-house, I had some little difficulty in passing my few -valuables, without paying a heavy duty. The Pope’s douaniers were -extremely curious, and a portable sketching apparatus, which I had -with me, unfortunately attracted the attention of the whole posse of -searchers. I thought the best way was to humour them, and therefore -opened my camp-stool, drew out a ready stretched piece of prepared -paper, squeezed a few dabs of paint upon the pallette, and might -perhaps have finished by caricaturing the whole lot, had not a more -considerate officer taken compassion on me, and desired me to shut up -my shop, an order I obeyed with the greatest alacrity. The result of my -delay was, that my travelling companions had appropriated all the rooms -in the “Albergo della Pace,” and I had to seek a bed elsewhere. - -I rose early the next day, in order to visit the old Cathedral church -and a triumphal arch, erected on the Mole, in honour of Trajan. I also -called upon my friend Heinrich, the German artist in acquarelle, who -had already engaged a _vettura_, to convey himself and family to Rome. -After some little bargaining with the driver, I secured a seat in the -coupè as far as Fuligno, having pretty much determined to make a halt -of a few days at Assisi, before returning to my old quarters in the Via -Sistina. - -We quitted Ancona at five in the morning, passing no fewer than -three distinct dogana, at each of which we were overhauled, though -fortunately without paying any duty. I found a trifling bribe go -farther than a boat-load of quiet civility or resignation, a papal -custom-house officer being devoid of all feeling save the modicum -existing in his palms, which when tickled with a small coin, generally -expand to the traveller’s advantage. On our arrival at Osimo, where our -vetturino gave us some breakfast, we discovered to our chagrin, that -our road would not lead us by Loretto, a disappointment for which we -had to thank ourselves in not making a better bargain, and we had the -mortification to catch a tantalizing glimpse only of the towers of “Our -Lady,” to which we had all been anticipating a pilgrimage. Continuing -our journey, we slept at Tolentino, at a most miserable and dirty -inn, and were really glad when the waiter called us at the somewhat -early hour of two (!) to resume our journey. It was of course quite -dark, and moreover, was raining heavily. I went to the stable to call -the driver, whom I found fast asleep between his jaded horses, and we -experienced some of the shivering pleasures of _vetturino_ travelling, -as we waited for him to “put to.” The waiter endeavoured to increase -our discomforts, by offering coffee and bread in the middle of the -night, our coachman declaring that he had to pay for it, and that if -we refused it, we should get no more. We enlightened him, however, by -afterwards pulling up at a little inn at the foot of the Appenines, -where we had our coffee, when we were able to enjoy it. About five -in the afternoon we reached Fuligno, where I had to bid a temporary -adieu to my friend Heinrich and his amiable family. The waiter of the -hotel informed me that he had a little one-horse vettura, which would -take me comfortably to Assisi for fifteen pauls, and closing with his -offer, I agreed to set off next morning. It seemed, however, as if the -rainy season had thoroughly set in--the water poured down in torrents, -splashing in at the ill-closed windows of my old-fashioned vehicle, and -I had a miserably wet ride, passing through the ancient town of Spello, -and reaching Assisi about one o’clock. An old Roman acquaintance had -recommended to me the Casa Carpinelli, whither I ordered the boy -to drive, and found the family just sitting down to dinner. There -were already two visitors in the house, one a countryman of my own, -and the other a French artist, but I found excellent accommodation, -and can offer a willing tribute of acknowledgment to the kind care -of the Signor Lorenzo, who boarded and did for me, at the rate of -three-and-a-half pauls per diem. - -The Church of San Francesco is of course _the_ lion of Assisi, and is a -very fine specimen of early Gothic architecture, abounding also in rich -frescoes, by Giotto and others. There are three distinct churches, one -over the other, the lowest of the three being cut in the rock, which -serves as the foundation of the entire building. Hundreds of pilgrims -resort hither annually, to worship at the shrine of San Francesco, -whose bones repose within this splendid temple. The convent of the -order of Francescans is attached to the church, and standing out -boldly as it does, from the face of the rock, has the appearance of a -strong fortification. The church of Santa Chiara is also well worth a -visit. It was formerly adorned with superb frescoes which, by command -of some infatuated bishop, were covered with whitewash, and all but -obliterated. There are yet a few remaining over the altar, and these -serve by their beauty to increase the regret one feels at the fate of -their companions. - -I staid a few weeks at Assisi, spending the greater portion of my time -in extended rambles through the neighbouring country, which, though -offering but few subjects for the pencil, is beautifully wooded, and -abounds with pleasing landscape. In the town I made many acquaintance, -of whom the most entertaining was a musical shoemaker, whom I had -called on with an order. I was I believe, whistling as I entered his -little workshop, though I should hardly have known that I was so doing, -had not my new friend exclaimed, “_quello é un bel pezzo, Signore_!” -and I should still have been at a loss to know whether he alluded to -my _morceau_, or to the leather in his hand, had he not, quick as -thought, whipped out a Cremona, and played me the whole of the piece -with remarkable precision and clearness. Giuseppe really _did_ possess -a soul above buttons, as I found out when I became better acquainted -with him. He had fitted up a large room at the back of his house as a -_stanza di musica_, where he instructed a number of young men of his -acquaintance, in the mysteries of counterpoint. - -The shoemakers of Italy are remarkable for their devotion to harmony, -and my Assisi friends may be cited as a favourable specimen of the -craft, who, if unable to afford money to purchase instruments, and -time to use them, will sing glees as they sit at work, with a degree -of proficiency that is sometimes astonishing. Nor do they confine -their vocal powers to the shop only. When work is over, and they are -about to separate for the evening, they will be seen with their hands -rammed down into their pockets, and their heads close together, either -singing at a street corner, or marking time with measured pace, as -they take the road homewards. Giuseppe and his companions, who were -all instrumentalists, devoted two nights in the week to the private -performance of concerted pieces, to which as a stranger I was kindly -invited, and it will be long before I lose the remembrance of these -agreeable and unpretending little réunions. - -I quitted Assisi on the day of _Tuttisanti_, or All Saints, making a -bargain with the Fuligno postman to take me that far in his carrettina -for the sum of four pauls. Taking a last peep into the Cathedral church -of San Rufino, where some imposing ceremonies were going forward, I -took leave of my Assisi friends, and got away about two. It rained hard -all the way to Fuligno, but the monstrous campagna umbrella kindly lent -me by the Signora Carpinelli, covered both myself and the postman, and -saved us from a thorough drenching. On alighting at the “Croce Bianca,” -I found a vetturino who was to start the next morning for Rome, and -with him I soon came to an arrangement. - -The waiter called me at five, bringing a cup of coffee, and having -hastily dressed myself, I got into my corner of the _legno_. The rain -was descending in sheets, and I wondered that our driver would venture -out before day-break in such weather. As soon as the light had dawned, -I discovered my travelling companions to be two priests and a lady, who -soon commenced an animated conversation, that served to shorten the -ride to Spoleto, where our vetturino pulled up at the hotel, declaring -he would proceed no farther in such _tempaccio_. His half-dripping -freight had nothing to do but to submit, and I therefore entered the -inn and ordered a bed, determined to make the best of a forced halt. In -the coffee-room, up stairs, I found a stout lady at a table, eating, -with a lot of damp Italians gazing at her in astonishment. On a rainy -day, a weather-bound traveller may be excused a trifling liberty, and -I therefore stared with the rest, though I really did not observe -anything remarkable until the lady addressed the gaping half-dozen. -“Ah! you may stare; pity you ai’nt got nothing better to stare at!” -The Italians seemed surprised and edified, and looked at each other -in silence, and then again at the stout lady, who resumed. “Yes, I -only wish _looking_ at them cutlets ’ud make em bigger! Here, garsony, -some salad!” “Eccomi qua Signora!” said the waiter, who emerged from -behind a screen, at the far end of the room, where he had concocted -a genuine _insalata_ of highly lubricated beans, with a garnish of -anchovies, which he now set down in triumph before the astonished -lady. “Well, I never,” exclaimed she, “cold French beans with ile and -vinegar--no, no, I aint _quite_ come to that yet, neither, the very -look on ’em makes me ill!” And my graceful countrywoman, producing a -capacious case-bottle, drank her own health with infinite gusto, and -then pledged the crowd of admirers, who bowed and took another long -stare. At this juncture a good-humoured looking vetturino entered the -room, whom she no sooner caught sight of, than she poured out for him -another _petit verre_, and shaking her head ruefully, pointed to the -dessert and remains of her repast which had evidently consisted of some -few and very light materials, and had by no means come up to _her_ -understanding of the agreement made with the vetturino. But her wily -driver, who swallowed the cognac, declined taking the hint, beckoning -her away with a notice of “Siamo pronto, Signora,” and in defiance of -both wind and water, they were soon again on their road northwards -before I could get an opportunity of speaking the strange sail. The -rain did not hold up until the moon rose, when it was too late to go -forward; so we staid the night at Spoleto, and on the following day -managed to reach Strittura, where we again met with a detention of -some hours. At Terni, we dropped one of the priests, and took in his -place a worthy sort of man, Governor of some little country district, -and exceedingly self-important. On arriving at Narni, our vetturino -drove to the “Campana,” or Bell Inn, a poor place enough, though said -to be the best in the town. The waiter, who took us for a party of -natives, from whom he would scarcely derive as much profit, as from -a carriage-load of travelling “Inglese,” was impudent and abusive, -but had no sooner detected a little badge of office worn by the -Governatore, who unfastened his upper Benjamin to that intent, than he -altered his tone, and shewed us excellent rooms. In the dining-room, -I fell in with more than a score of English, principally ladies, and -most amusing was it to me to hear their remarks upon our little party, -our dress and personal appearance being freely canvassed, without the -least affectation of whisper or concealment. I had my revenge upon them -in the evening, when it was decided that we should amuse ourselves by -having a song from every one present, the priests only being exempted. -On its coming round to me, I selected something in the mother tongue, -which, as the language was entirely unanticipated by certain of the -young ladies, produced so strange an effect, that they left the room in -confusion, and could scarcely be induced to return. - -On reaching Otricoli the next day, we found a great number of vehicles, -public and private, as well as the Corriera or mail, detained there -by the overflow of the Tiber at the Ponte Felice. We were disposing -ourselves to pass the remainder of the day in this miserable village, -when a post-boy with some return horses, having brought the news that -the water was not more than three palms over the road, we all decided -to venture, and arrived at Civita Castellana without difficulty. At -Rome I put up at an inn in the Via del Orso, with my Italian friend -the Governor, until I could suit myself with a lodging, and on walking -to the Lepri, fell in with many of my old artistical acquaintance at -Aurelio’s table, who received me with many expressions of welcome. - - - - -CHAPTER XXV. - - CHANGE OF DOMICILE--FRANCESCO--FRIENDS FROM - ENGLAND--PICTURE-SHOPS--OLD PAINTINGS--ARTISTS AND THEIR PATRONS--MR. - TITMARSH--ANECDOTE OF N---- --THE DINNER AT BERTINI’s--THE - ENGLISH ACADEMY--TABLE TALK--HARMONY--THE AMERICANS--ROMAN - GAIETIES--TORLONIA’S--THE FESTINI--HOSPITAL OF SAN MICHELE--THE - QUIRINAL--VIA GREGORIANA--MR. RAVEN AGAIN--THE ENGLISH CHURCH--THE - FRIENDS’ MEETING-HOUSE--ILLUMINATION OF ST. PETER’S. - - -Being informed that my old friend Quatremolle, the artist, had taken -a studio outside the Porta del Popolo, I called on him the day after -my arrival, and found him snugly located in a Casino belonging to -the Borghese Gardens, exactly opposite the building known as the -English Church. I had no sooner made my appearance, and told him that -I was roofless, my old rooms in the Sistina being occupied, than he -introduced me to a fine unfurnished room, adjoining his own, of which -he said I might at once take possession. The proposal was liberal, and -the situation, if not the most convenient, was at least so agreeable -that I hastened to an upholsterer in the Corso, who supplied me on -hire with such few articles of furniture as were necessary, and in -the course of a few days I was snugly settled in my new quarters. -Francesco, the _Barbarossa_, served us in the capacity of factotum, -lighting the fires in the morning, and running for red herrings and -butter to the shop of a neighbouring _pizzicarolo_. Underneath my room -was a decent coffee-shop, from whence two or three taps upon the floor -would produce my breakfast, whilst for dinner I paid the usual mid-day -visit to the “Lepri.” - -I was busy one morning in finishing up a Venetian sketch, when I -was surprised by the apparition of an intimate acquaintance, fresh -from England. He was travelling in quest of health with two of his -friends, to whom he introduced me at the Hotel d’Angleterre, and as -they appeared resolved to see all they could of Rome, a week or more -was passed in one continued round of sight-seeing. The galleries, -however, were the great objects of attraction, and there were very few -that escaped their notice, to say nothing of the host of picture-shops -which they visited in search of bargains. Mack himself would hardly -have displayed greater perseverance in ferretting among old worm-eaten -and decayed rubbish, than did my London friends, who have to answer -for the rubbing up of many an atrocious daub, which, but for their -extraordinary resolution, would never again have known the smell of -varnish. Small dealers, who had hitherto never possessed anything -beyond a Sacchi or a Bassano, now suddenly became the proprietors of -sundry undoubted Correggios, or maybe an indisputable Sebastian del -Piombo, in a mahogany frame, with a lock and a glass window. Almost -every one had a genuine Nicolo Poussin, an unfortunate who might now -have been living had he painted two-thirds of the pictures ascribed to -him. This poor man too appears to have possessed the queer habit of -obliterating his own foregrounds with an over-coating of brambles and -brushwood; the sagacious dealer never failing to declare, that by the -merest accident imaginable, the genuine picture was brought to light by -the removal of a thick over-stratum of paint. - -After having pretty well visited all the sights of Rome, and filled -a large deal case with plasters, bronzes, mosaics, and paintings, my -friends started off one fine morning for Florence, leaving behind -them one of their party who was in poor health. This gentleman had -been strongly recommended to Dr. P., an English physician of great -and deserved popularity, who had made Rome his residence, and the -introduction was no sooner effected, than W. put himself into the -doctor’s hands, and taking a commodious suite of rooms in the Via -Gregoriana, settled down for the winter. I staid a month or more in -the studio outside the Popolo, when my friend Quatremolle decided on -giving up the place and going northwards, and I then joined W----, -who had begun to weary of living alone. Christmas time was fast -approaching, and Rome becoming every day more and more crowded with -English and other strangers, and consequent upon their arrival was -a rapid succession of evening parties and artistical réunions. The -brothers of the brush are not less averse than others to glitter in -the reflected light of such stars of great magnitude, as twinkle -away the winter in the Holy City, and when one of them does manage -to nail a great man, there is generally some little manifestation of -exclusiveness. Patrons, however, are by no means so plentiful as to be -held in very light estimation, and the feeling is therefore excusable, -whilst there can be no harm in fête-ing a pseudo-connoisseur with his -own scudi, or standing treat at the Aliberti to Lord this, or the -Marquis of that, with a heavy draft on Torlonia in prospectu. Of the -great men who visited Rome during this winter, M. A. Titmarsh was among -the most popular. Himself an artist, he dropped down among us on -his way from Cairo, no one knowing when he came or how he went away. -Installed in a quiet bed-room at Franz’s, in the Condotti, he appeared -to amuse himself, like Asmodeus, with peering into the studios of his -countrymen, and while he rummaged over their dusty portfolios, or -critically scanned the pictures on the wall, would unconsciously read -their secret thoughts, and penetrate, as it were, the arcana of their -pockets, without allowing them for a moment to imagine that he intended -aught save a mere friendly visit. Many, however, were the poor devils -who managed to push through the winter on the strength of the timely -fillip administered by Titmarsh,[40] who was moreover one of those -pleasant paymasters who get a bad character because they make their -settlements beforehand. Painting, however, ought certainly to be a -ready-money business, as artists seldom like to give, what they somehow -always manage to take--long credits; and as they never approach nearer -to the practice of book-keeping than a chalk or charcoal memorandum -on the wall or door-post, possess the happy knack of never knowing -how their accounts stand, or may take the same businesslike view of a -transaction, as my friend Savill, who declared that Mr. Milnes owed him -£25. for a picture, which he afterwards gravely admitted he had neither -commenced nor thought about. - -I met Titmarsh at many of the evening parties which were held at this -season by the artists. Perhaps the greatest display of this sort was -made on a certain holiday, when the whole of us dined together at -Bertini’s, and he was voted into the chair. It happened unfortunately, -that the dinner provided on the occasion was of a most indifferent -character, and very ill-calculated to impress the F. C. with any -great idea of Roman advancement in gastronomy. Our motive, however, -for thus meeting in a social way, was not that of mere feasting: a -great amount of elocution had to be got through, in addition to the -usual round of song and sentiment. It happened just at this time, -that there was a schism among the members of the English Academy in -Rome respecting a proposition originating with Mack,--that an Italian -Professor of drawing should be appointed to the Academy! This proposal -had met with the most vigorous and animated opposition from the other -faction, headed by O’Neil, who had proved himself a most able champion, -having set forth in an eloquent and elaborate speech, the consequences -of such a measure,--the impropriety of introducing an Italian style -of drawing to the annihilation of all originality,--the injustice of -placing a master over men who never would submit to his criticism, and -the unenviable position in which such a master would necessarily be -placed,--the reflection, in fact, upon the state of English art, and -other weighty considerations. O’Neil was supported by men of eminence -and standing, as well as by a very conclusive argument adduced by -the Secretary, who proved that the funds of the institution would -ill support the expense. Mack, however, like an able general, having -canvassed the whole body beforehand, carried his motion by a majority -of eight! The master therefore was appointed, _not_ as Professor of -drawing to the English Academy, but to give his assistance to such as -might ask it, a qualification of the original measure, which it was -hoped would meet the views of all parties. - -With this important question fresh upon the tapis, it was no wonder -that a considerable portion of the evening was consumed in long-winded -speeches, and had it not been for a deeply guttural proposal on the -part of our friend Beardman, “to take the basso part in a glee,” a -harmonious feeling would scarcely have been arrived at. His instigation -was succeeded by a call for a song from the chair, amid a vociferous -shout of “Viva Titmarsh!” and a deafening clatter of dessert furniture. -Our great friend assured us he was unable to sing, but would endeavour -to make amends by getting up a recitation, if some one in the mean -time would make a beginning. Whilst a few, therefore, on the right of -the chair, were tantalizing the company by a tortured version of one -of Calcott’s glees, the F. C., busy with his tablets under the table, -produced the following affecting narrative, of which he soon after -delivered himself in a fittingly lugubrious tone of voice. - -THE THREE SAILORS. - - There were three sailors in Bristol City, - Who took a boat and went to sea. - - But first with beef and captains’ biscuit, - And pickled pork they loaded she. - - There was guzzling Jack and gorging Jimmy, - And the youngest he was little Bil-_ly_. - - Now very soon they were so greedy, - They did’nt leave not one split pea. - - Says guzzling Jack to gorging Jimmy, - I am confounded hung-_ery_. - - Says gorging Jim to guzzling Jacky, - We have no wittles, so we must eat _we_. - - Says guzzling Jack to gorging Jimmy, - Oh! gorging Jim, what a fool you be. - - There’s little Bill as is young and tender, - We’re old and tough--so let’s eat _he_. - - Oh! Bill, we’re going to kill and eat you, - So undo the collar of your chemie. - - When Bill he heard this information, - He used his pocket-handkerchee. - - Oh! let me say my Catechism, - As my poor mammy taught to me. - - Make haste, make haste, says guzzling Jacky, - Whilst Jim pulled out his snicker-snee. - - So Bill went up the main top-gallant mast, - When down he fell on his bended knee. - - He scarce had said his catechism, - When up he jumps; there’s land I see! - - There’s Jerusalem and Madagascar, - And North and South Ameri-_key_. - - There’s the British fleet a riding at anchor, - With Admiral Napier, K.C.B. - - So when they came to the Admiral’s Vessel, - He hanged fat Jack, and flogged Jim-_my_. - - But as for little Bill, he made him - The Captain of a Seventy-three. - -It is needless to say that the recital of M. A. Titmarsh was received -with all the applause it merited. Even the “Emperor,” stoically -indifferent as he uniformly was to either music or moral, was betrayed -into some expression of feeling, distinctly audible to those near him, -whilst he repeatedly pledged the author of the interesting ballad. -Other songs followed as a matter of course, but our ears were become -so accustomed to the oft-heard and unvarying effusions of our brother -artists, that few of them elicited farther comment than a faint -“bravo,” or a few raps upon the table, and we were beginning to think -of separating, when our chairman received a polite message from a party -of Americans, who had been dining in another room. With a laudable wish -to sink a certain feeling of national prejudice, which I believe some -of the English entertained against “Brother Jonathan,” these gentlemen -expressed a desire to fraternize and join us, a proposal which so -aroused the bile of Vetch and Warmey, that they immediately quitted the -apartment in a state of great excitement, whilst our esteemed chairman -formed, and personally headed, a mission of peace into the quarters of -the enemy, who afterwards gave us their company for the rest of the -evening. - -With the commencement of February came the Carnival again, a more -brilliant affair this year than the last, in consequence of the great -number of strangers wintering in Rome. Among the English, and others, -there was a constant succession of evening parties in every grade of -style and grandeur, from the grand crash at Torlonia’s to the quiet -tea-drink of a first-floor in the Due Macelli. Great was the dismay of -those unfortunate bachelors, who had been so unwary as to place their -temporary accounts in the hands of one of the Condotti bankers, to -find their names excluded from the long list of eligibles on the books -of the Signor Spada. No large card with the attracting German-text of -the Principe and Principessa, greeted them from the corners of their -chimney-glasses, and unless they could squeeze themselves in under -cover of the family invite of some large party of English friends, or -suddenly transfer their accounts, the _salons_ of the mighty banker -were to them a _terra incognita_. - -At one of the Festini in the Argentina, which were this time -particularly gay, I made the acquaintance of an agreeable family, -through the medium of the father, who puzzled me for many nights, by -a well-dressed character, and extraordinary command of language. My -new friends, having been long resident in Italy, introduced me to many -Roman families whom I should otherwise scarcely have fallen in with, -to whose kindness I am indebted for many subsequent obligations. In -company with H. and his amiable wife, I visited, among other places, -the Hospital of San Michele, for which purpose he had obtained a -private order from Cardinal Tosti, the resident director of the -institution. At this admirable establishment, five hundred of the -Roman youth of both sexes are clothed and maintained, having also -the advantage of a good education, and the opportunity of qualifying -themselves for any trade that may appear most suitable to their tastes. -A young Italian showed us over the building, which is situated on the -right bank of the Tiber, below the Ponte Rotto. We found a number of -youths busied at various artistical occupations, such as architectural -drawing, engraving on copper, cartooning, music, tapestry, and the -cutting of _pietra dura_ and camei, whilst on the ground-floor were -sculptors’ studios, and shops for weavers and dyers of cloth. - -In another part of the establishment were the girls, likewise employed -in various branches of useful labour, as spinning, weaving, and the -manufacture of army ornaments. All those of the Papal troops are made -here, from the coloured flames on the coat-tails of the recruit, to the -pink plume of the Swiss guard. The bed-rooms are particularly neat and -comfortable, some of the dormitories containing as many as fifty beds. -In answer to an inquiry from one of our party, why some of these beds -were larger than others, resembling in fact a genuine four-poster, the -old lady who conducted us informed us that, in the event of a marriage -taking place in the institution, the fortunate couple were presented -with a good bed and its furniture by way of a portion. We saw the -kitchens, which are admirably fitted up, the girls acting as cooks for -the female department. In a spacious yard were an incredible number of -hens, each girl keeping as many as she can afford to nourish, disposing -of the eggs to furnish pocket-money. - -From San Michele we drove back to the Quirinal, to view the palace -of the Pope, which, of all the regal dwellings I ever visited, is -decidedly the least ostentatious. Our guide informed us that stuffed -chair-bottoms were forbidden, and certainly the seats in the reception -room, which were of painted wood and of the most ordinary description, -seemed to corroborate his assertion. The private rooms of the great -Vicar were nevertheless somewhat more comfortable, and in one -apartment, a well-appointed billiard-table evinced a degree of luxury -ill-according with the rest of the furniture. Fancy Cardinal B----i, -starring with two lives and pocketing the Pope! - -As W. and I were one day dozing after dinner in the “Via Gregoriana,” -Settimio silently ushered in a tall figure, whose face, as he peered -at us over the baize screen, I recognized as that of my old friend Mr. -Raven. He was on his way to England, after having spent many years of -usefulness in Egypt, in the personal direction of the Overland transit, -which had now passed into other hands. How he had managed to discover -my whereabouts, was of no moment; few visitors could have been more -welcome; and finding that he proposed spending some days in Rome, to -give his protegeé and travelling companion an opportunity of seeing -some of its wonders, I offered to assist him to the best of my ability. -My friends had arrived just in time to witness some of the ceremonies -of the Holy Week, and had the satisfaction of seeing one of the grand -processions in St. Peter’s, and hearing the solemn music of the -Sistine. At the former, the King of Naples, although not wearing any -uniform, was conspicuous among the crowd, which was dotted in all parts -with our militia officers, whose cocked hats and gay coats, have a very -imposing appearance in the eyes of the worthy Romans, who don’t know a -recruiting sergeant from a field marshal. - -The English Church, to which I have before alluded as being little -better than a mere barn, is _outside_ the Porta del Popolo. It seems -strange that this manifestation of intolerance should exist in a -capital like Rome, and it is to be hoped that the more enlightened -policy which has marked the opening of the new Pontificate, will be -allowed to extend to matters of greater moment than the licensing -of itinerant hawkers, or the extension of iron-roads throughout the -Papal states, and that before long, it will be unnecessary for those -professing with the Church of England to pass beyond the walls of -the city, to reach their place of worship. This veto, however, would -hardly appear to extend to those who dissent therefrom, inasmuch as -for many weeks, W. and I attended the little meeting of Friends, which -was held in a small street leading out of the Piazza di Spagna. We -met in a little room belonging to the apartment of our friend B----n, -which opened at one side on to the leads of the house underneath, and -at the back looked out upon the slopes of the Pincian Hill. I often -thought (when my thoughts should have been better engaged) that, had -any of the good friends from the benches of Devonshire House popped -in accidentally upon us, they would have found some difficulty in -recognising a gathering of their own particular people. Although few -in number, we mustered some black moustaches, and, I believe, a beard -or two, whilst our female friends, of whom we had the company of four -or five, would, I fear, scarcely have passed muster at the great May -Meeting in Bishopsgate. With respect to the hat, to which some attach -so distinguished an importance, the most fastidious would hardly have -found fault, for the remotest corners of Pennsylvania never gave birth -to a more preposterous breadth of brim, than that possessed by my own -_cinque-cento_, whilst those of my friends were of such dimensions as -best suited the sunny climate of Rome. - -[Illustration: FRIENDS’ MEETING AT ROME.] - -On one occasion of our meeting together, the sitting was somewhat -abruptly concluded by a deafening salute from the cannons of St. -Angelo, which shook the very _piombi_ of friend B----n. It was Easter -Day, and the Pope had just pronounced a blessing upon the thousands -of souls assembled in the Piazza of St. Peter’s. After we had -separated, I hunted up my friend Raven, who had just returned from the -“Benediction,” and with him visited some of the Roman villas, going -subsequently to the Ponte St. Angelo, to secure a convenient window -for the fireworks of the following day. In the evening we drove to a -favourable position in the great square of St. Peter, where, hemmed -in by hundreds of vehicles, we had to wait until the illumination of -the Duomo should commence. Being curious to see the method of lighting -the lamps, I left the party in the carriage, and squeezing through the -dense crowd, got as near as I could to the church. The whole façade was -stuck over with bajocco candles, each having a little wooden stand and -shade of stiff paper to keep off the wind, and these were arranged in -such a way as perfectly to develope the architectural outlines of the -building. The candles were ignited by men suspended from the top of -the façade, looking, as they dangled on their ropes in mid-air, like -the fowlers of the Orkneys, and plying apparently quite as perilous a -pursuit. I now returned to Raven, but the pressure of the crowd was -so great, that the lighting up of the cupola had commenced before I -reached him. This seems to be effected by the simultaneous ignition -of an immense number of small pots of tow and turpentine, placed -in proper position, in belts around the dome, and in vertical lines -between the gores, there being one man to about every ten lamps. These -poor fellows have a very dangerous task to perform, being suspended by -ropes passing through apertures in the dome. Sometimes, though rarely, -one of them misses his hold, and extinguishes in his fall the row of -lamps he has just lighted, which have been remarked to go out one by -one, as the unfortunate scrapes them off in his rapid descent. Having -satisfied ourselves with a near inspection of this really wonderful and -costly exhibition, we returned to view it at a distance from the summit -of the Pincian. - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[40] That artists are sometimes grievously _hard up_, there can be -little doubt. I happened one cold morning, to call upon N----, whose -absence from his usual seat at the Lepri had been remarked by many of -us. Instead of finding him, as I had anticipated, unusually busy with -his chisel, he was engaged in shooting his dinner at the open window -of the garret, which commanded an extensive range of leads, tiles and -gutters. His sport, which he pursued in solemn silence, was the common -sparrow, and his weapon a machine much in use among lawyers’ clerks -when the principal has turned his back, known by the name of a _puff -and dart_, from which any one with a good pair of lungs, can expel -pin with great force. Having knocked over nearly a dozen birds, N---- -walked out of window to collect them, and then plucked and spitted -them, enjoying his repast with a thankful relish unknown to those who -get a good dinner every day. - - - - -CHAPTER XXVI. - - TIVOLI--COUNTRY EXCURSIONS--CICILIANO--HOSPITALITY OF - THE MOUNTAINEERS--THE PORTA SAN LORENZO--VISIT TO THE - GOVERNOR--ANOTHER START NORTHWARD--FLORENCE--THE UFFIZII--S----, - AND HIS HEAD OF VELASQUEZ--THE FLOOD OF THE ARNO--MR. - M.--LORD D.--UNEXPECTED SUMMONS--PISA--LEGHORN--GENOA--THE - “DILIGENCE”--ALESSANDRIA--TURIN--THE RAILWAY DEPUTATION--EXPEDITION - TO THE MONT CENIS--SUSA--BARDONECHE--MY FRIEND B.’S MOUNTAIN - RAMBLE--SUCCESSFUL “JODELN”--THE VALLEY OF THE DORA SUSA--DEPARTURE - FROM TURIN--CONCLUSION. - - -The “Holy Week” and its ceremonies concluded, and Raven having left -for Marseilles on his way homewards, a few of us made up a party for -Tivoli. Some rode, while the rest, preferring the dreary march over -the Campagna, were overtaken by a Roman shower, which thoroughly -soaked them to the skin before they reached the appointed rendezvous -at Salvi’s hotel. We had intended to devote the next day to a walk as -far as Vicovaro, but having chosen a most unfortunate time for our -excursion, had got only about three-fourths of the way there, when such -a drencher poured down upon us, whilst in a totally unsheltered part -of the road, that we were compelled to take refuge in a little straw -wine-house, about as big as a hay-cock, which was already occupied by -the family of the proprietor, half-a-dozen surly dogs, and myriads of -fleas. Amusing ourselves by transferring the faces of the children to -our sketch-books, we remained until an opening in the black clouds -above promised some abatement of the rain, and then, sallying forth, -made a quick march back to the hotel, where a roaring fire welcomed -us very opportunely. In the evening, our little party was enlivened -by a visit from Count H. le Grice and Captain D----, who had for some -months been enjoying the retirement of the Palazzo Santa Croce. The -latter amused us with some exciting stories of a long campaign n the -Peninsula, and proposed, if the morrow should prove more propitious, -a donkey-excursion to the distant village of Ciciliano. We therefore -ordered a number of animals to be in readiness, and finding, when we -arose, that the clouds of the preceding day had entirely disappeared, -we made a start after breakfast, and had a delightful, though somewhat -wearying ride, to the little village, which lies embosomed among the -mountains, at a considerable elevation above the valley through which -our road had led us. - -The scenery is of a wild and charming character, and it is -extraordinary that these secluded regions are not more often visited -by those who profess to travel in search of the picturesque. Toiling -up the hill, which conducted us to the quaint little town, we halted -before the best-looking house therein, and deposited at the door a -mule-load of brocoli and lemons, which we intended as an offering to -the padrone, who was personally known to some of our party. The good -man was absent on business in a neighbouring village, but his wife, -an agreeable and most intelligent-looking woman, gave us a hearty -welcome, cooked us a large dish of home-made sausages, and supplied -us with wine and cheese _ad libitum_. We staid but an hour or two, -to recruit ourselves and the tired mules, but our kind hostess, with -that liberality which distinguishes the peasants of the Appenines, -had already prepared our beds and lamps, and would scarcely hear of -our going away the same day. In order, too, that we might the more -effectually enjoy ourselves, the kind creature had gathered about her -all the rural beauty of Ciciliano, and one or two dark-looking fellows, -with their guitars, in the hope of tempting us with an evening dance, -and the excitement of a genuine _Saltarello_. It would be difficult to -say whether they or we were the more disappointed, but we had made up -our minds to return, and feeling also that the unexpected intrusion -of a party of seven would be taxing her hospitality too severely, we -saddled our mules and bade them _addio_. The next morning broke so -temptingly, that we lounged it away at the Falls, whose cool grots and -rushing waters were seldom enjoyed to greater advantage. - -As I had ridden out to Tivoli, I varied the pleasures of the excursion -by walking home. My friend Flake proved a most agreeable companion, and -we walked and talked to such good purpose, that the weary length of -road over the campagna was almost unnoticed, saving that I had become -so lame, that I was obliged to take off one boot and suspend it by a -string over my shoulder. At length we reached the Porta San Lorenzo, -through which we were quietly proceeding, when some functionary, -emerging from a chamber in the wall, arrested our farther progress by -demanding our passports. We had none; and our _carte di sicurezza_ -were safe in our respective drawers where we had left them. We were -therefore detained, and presently discovered that nothing short of a -visit to the Governor of Rome would satisfy the officious gate-keeper. -The good man evidently flattered himself that our seedy artistical garb -disguised a pair of very dangerous foreigners, and having invested -himself in a suitable habit, he appropriated an arm of each of us, and -strode forward with becoming importance towards the church of Santa -Maria Maggiore. Flake and I, however, were foot-sore and weary, and -not relishing the _eclat_ of being marched through the streets in the -clutch of a dirty gate-keeper, we chartered the first empty coach -that came in our way, and treated our body-guard with a ride to the -“Polizia.” The Governor of Rome was, like other reasonable men, at his -dinner; but a good-natured clerk who had eaten _his_ two hours before, -referred to his books, and finding that our names were duly inscribed -therein, and that had we not forgotten our papers we should have been -perfectly _en regle_, he dismissed us with many apologies for the -inconvenience we had experienced, and bestowing a few words of approval -on our friend of the gate, told him to get back as fast as he could to -his duties. - -W. now took it into his head to make a sudden start for the north, and -proposed that I should accompany him. I had certainly not intended -quitting Rome so early in the spring, but my friend was an invalid, and -having but little knowledge of Italian, was hardly in a condition to -trust himself to the tender mercies of uncouth Vetturini and exacting -landlords. Under these circumstances I made up my mind to go with him, -and after some little search, met with a light britzka and pair of -horses, belonging to a cabman of Florence, who agreed to deposit us -safe and sound in that city within four days from the time of starting, -for a sum of fifty scudi, including beds, and two substantial daily -meals. - -I had now to bid a second adieu to my Roman friends, and not knowing -how far I might be induced to accompany W., left the few heavy -valuables I possessed in the care of a kind banker in the Condotti, -taking with me such only as a long journey might render necessary. -Travelling by way of Perugia, we reached Florence by easy stages, -and located ourselves at the “Quatre Nations,” from whence I shortly -removed to the house of the Signor Vital, on the Lung’ Arno, with whom -I had been long acquainted. Here I staid two weeks or more, copying in -the Uffizii and Pitti galleries, to which the access is sufficiently -easy. In the former I made acquaintance with S----, an English artist, -who was busily copying a head by Velasquez. Whether it was that he -soon after got tired of his subject, or became disgusted with his -production, he did not tell me, but I was much astonished one day, -on paying my usual visit to his part of the gallery, to find him in -the act of finishing off his study with a pair of prodigiously black -eyes, which stared at me from the canvas with a fixedness that was -excessively absurd. Remonstrance was useless. Adding two spots of -white, which served to perfect the vagary, S---- turned his picture to -the wall, where we left it. Some days afterwards, I happened to be in -that division of the gallery, when it was undergoing the weekly visit -of the sweeping brush. The head _custode_, who would suffer none but -himself to touch such pictures as were in progress, was regarding the -copy of Velasquez with a stare almost as intense as that which had been -imparted to it by S----. In another moment, he had summoned the whole -of his underlings; but to no purpose--they one and all pleaded innocent -of the foul trick upon the Signor Inglese. The poor custode was in -despair, and was wringing his hands and tearing his wig in anticipation -of the dismissal which would inevitably follow S----’s exposure of -the black eyes, when that gentleman himself entered the gallery, and -immediately relieved the old man’s anxiety by adding a nose and mouth -to match, and packing up his painting apparatus. - -At Florence I met with my friend Edward M----y, who had gained -so deserved a popularity by his courageous exploits in the flood -which caused so much damage in 1845, when the Arno, swollen to a -mighty torrent by the rains which poured into it from the mountains, -encroached beyond its wonted bounds, and sweeping down the valley -with irresistible rapidity, carried all before it. For days did the -waters tear along, bearing upon their bosom the spoils of many a goodly -homestal. Cattle and trees, chairs, tables, beds, pianofortes, and -every possible description of household furniture, nay, the very body -of the inmates themselves, were carried away by the ruthless torrent, -which converted the streets of Florence into canals, and rose in some -of the squares to a height of more than six feet. M----y was at this -time living in the Palazzo P----, in the Borgo dei Greci, and on the -morning of the first day of the flood was awakened by his landlady, who -entered his room, wailing and beating her hands in a state of frightful -agitation. It was not without difficulty that M----y managed to elicit -that something unusually terrible had taken place out of doors, but -in going to the window, he saw quite sufficient to enlighten him -completely. A horse, nearly exhausted, was swimming about in the street -below, among a quantity of flasks, barrels, and other commodities, -which had floated from out the cellars. The good woman now gave him to -understand that her son had left the house early in the morning, and -was certainly drowned; but whilst M----y was in the act of assuming a -pair of light summer trousers, a message was passed along the adjacent -houses to the effect that the young man was on a plank at some distance -off, and in imminent peril of being carried into the Arno. M----y was -now at the steps of the palace, where several people were congregated. -One old woman begged him “_per l’amore della Madonna_,” and as he -valued his life, not to venture; but the afflicted mother stood by, -and our friend did not hesitate a second. Being a man of Herculean -frame, and possessed of incredible strength, he was able, whilst he -touched terra-firma, to stem the force of the current with his head and -shoulders above the water, and having cautiously waded to the young -man, whose hold upon the plank was becoming every moment more feeble, -he stretched forth his arm and rescued him. - -This was not the only one whose life M----y was the providential means -of saving, but the accounts I heard respecting the others were so -varied, that I shall not farther allude to them. I often begged him to -give me the particulars, but so uniformly averse was he to expatiate -upon his own exploits, that I at last gave it up as a bad job. - -Perhaps one of the most daring feats related in connection with this -flood, was that performed by Lord D. This nobleman had engaged to dine -with the Honourable C---- L----, and both occupied palaces in the same -street, though at considerable distance from each other. The waters -were too deep to allow of wading, and the act of swimming was rendered -hazardous from the rapidity with which the torrent was raging. But -his word had been passed, and the hour fixed for dinner having nearly -arrived, his lordship unhesitatingly committed himself to the flood, -and by making a rush from one window to the other, and clinging to the -iron work with which almost all were furnished, succeeded in gaining -the hotel of his friend, whose family he astonished in no small degree, -by suddenly presenting himself at the first-floor window, just as they -were about to sit down to table. Having borrowed a dry suit, Lord D., -who evidently was not to be easily discouraged by trifles, enjoyed his -dinner, and swam back again to his own domicile. - -I had scarce been a fortnight at the house of the Signor Vital, when -the plans which I had formed for my future guidance, were suddenly -knocked on the head by the receipt of a letter inviting me immediately -northward, to meet a deputation of railway potentates, among whom were -one or two personal acquaintance of my own. These gentlemen, armed with -powers to treat, and unfathomable purses, were invading Italy, fraught -with a scheme which would defy the very Alps, and make footballs of -the Appenines. The partial completion of the Lombardo-Venetian trunk, -had already whetted the appetites of the Austrians, who were free -to receive and take fire at the scintillations of the great railway -firework which had recently exploded in Britain, and had scattered its -sparks over the whole of the north of Italy, some blowing over into -gentle Tuscany, whilst _a very few_ fell into the dominions of the -Pope. Although somewhat loth to close my colour box, in the uncertain -expectation of having once more to shoulder a theodolite, I felt that -it would be impolitic to refuse an invitation which had been extended -through the interest of my friends, and might lead to important results. - -I therefore once more packed up my portmanteau, and as W. was intending -to proceed to Genoa, which would be all on my way to Turin, we hired a -carriage for Pisa, and leaving Florence at ten at night, changed horses -three times, and at six in the morning arrived at the birth-place -of Galileo. We put up at a little inn near to the railway by which -we were to reach Leghorn, and hastily dispatching our breakfast, -walked out in a heavy rain to see the leaning tower or Campanile, and -other interesting objects in its neighbourhood. A priest conducted -us into the Baptistery, a circular building standing by itself, with -a spacious and lofty dome. Here the good man, who possessed a rich -and powerful voice, chanted a few verses, in order that we might hear -the reverberation caused by the peculiar structure of the cupola, and -almost startled us by the effect he produced. The Campo Santo is close -by, and its covered galleries abound with frescoes and other valuable -works of art, much injured by time. The earth in this burial-place is -said to have been brought from Calvary by the Pisans, on their return -from a crusade, and the name of _Campo Santo_, applied to all Italian -cemeteries, probably owes its origin to this circumstance. - -A railway trip of half-an-hour’s duration, brought us to Leghorn, where -we engaged berths for Genoa. Repairing on board the steam vessel, we -found, to our chagrin, that the rain which had prevented the discharge -of her cargo, would be the cause of our staying a day in this dirty -sea-port. We had, therefore, to pocket our soap and toothbrushes, and -secure beds at a little hotel contiguous to the shore, passing the -remainder of the wet and dismal day in strolling through the town, and -poking about in the ware-room of Jewish merchants. - -Arrived at Genoa, and having obtained pratique, we passed through the -strict formalities of its custom-house, and located ourselves at the -“Croce di Malta.” Being in expectation of hearing something decisive -from my friend of the railway deputation, respecting the whereabouts -of the party, I hastened to the post-office, but met with no success. -Having taken every precaution respecting the due forwarding of any -letters from Florence, I made up my mind to wait patiently in Genoa -until some intelligence might reach me. - -I had been six days at the “Croce,” when the waiter handed me a letter. -It was from W----m, informing me that the parties were at Turin, and -that I might there make sure of finding them. By half-past two o’clock -I had taken my seat in the coupé of the _diligence_, between a Spaniard -and a pretty Turinese lady, and my friend W. having wished me _bon -voyage_, I was soon rattling away towards Alessandria, passing over -the blood-stained plains of Marengo, where fell the brave Dessaix. -We reached that city at ten at night. Some of the passengers partook -of a hearty supper which was in readiness for them, but my fair -fellow-traveller, who seemed to think that a few sweets and a cup of -hot coffee would suit her better, at so late an hour, than a heavy -meal, possessed herself of my arm in a way as unceremonious as it was -agreeable, and hurried me off to a brilliant café in the square, where -we passed one of the two hours which the conducteur had informed me -must elapse before the arrival of the branch mail from Tortona. - -At eight the next morning, we reached the Sardinian capital. On -repairing to the “Hotel de l’Europe,” I was ushered by a loquacious -waiter into the bedroom of a gentleman, who, being in the act of -donning his _corazza_, was not a little surprised, as his head emerged -slowly and carefully from out the well-starched front, to see a dusty -fellow in a slouched hat disappearing with a carpet bag. As I found -I had failed to escape his observation, I stammered an apology in my -very best Italian, which I found provocative of nothing beyond a stare -and an ejaculatory comment in sound English upon my impudence. This -latter was enough for me; the mistake was speedily explained, and in -another minute I had shaken hands with W----m, who occupied an inner -apartment. In the breakfast-room I was introduced to the rest, and a -more agreeable travelling party it certainly had never been my lot -to fall in with. It was enlivened moreover by the presence of several -ladies, whose charming society contrasted most pleasantly with the dull -and prosy discussions of the rooms above, in which the business of the -deputation was carried on. - -In submitting these sketches to the world, it forms no part of my -intention to detail the extraordinary efforts made by this body of -gentlemen, to carry out the grand object which had led them to Italy, -neither would it become me to describe the movements of a party by whom -I was only regarded in the light of a visitor, and in no other way -identified. But as an eye-witness to the unwearied exertions made by -the well-known leaders of that deputation, in the face of obstacles, -which at the very outset would have deterred less energetic men, I -_may_ be allowed to express my own admiration of the clear-headed -tact which characterized their proceedings, and my firm conviction -that their undertaking would have been crowned with the most complete -success, had the exchequers of certain of the Italian states not been -so much upon a par with the short-sighted policy of their rulers. - -About a week after my arrival in Turin, I was invited to accompany -Mr. B----e, on a little engineering expedition to the Mont Cenis. -Fortified with an order from Marina, the Minister of the Interior, and -furnished with some provisions, and a change or two of linen, we left -the hotel at one o’clock, with a light carriage and pair of posters, -reaching the town of Susa about an hour before dusk. We employed this -interval in a walk to Jailliéres, a romantic little village commanding -a view of the valley of the Dora Susa, and enabling B----e to chalk out -a route for the ensuing day. - -The next morning we mounted a couple of strong mules, and escorted by -an intelligent guide, took our course up the Susa Valley, B----e, plan -in hand, making his observations by the way, with a view to discover -the most practicable course for a line of railway through or over some -portion of the Cenis. We halted for an hour at the town of Exilés, -where the valley, at that point very narrow, is guarded by a strong -fort. From hence the views, both up and down the course of the torrent, -are wild and beautiful. Farther on, at a little place called Oulx, the -road diverges into two branches, that to the south leading through -the valley of the Dora to Cesanno, and over the ridge to the French -frontier, the other following the course of the Dora Susa stream to its -rise under the Col de Frejus. This latter was our road. On leaving -Oulx, the valley widens into an extensive plain: a stony bridle path, -at one time lost in the stream, and at another skirting the edge of a -precipice, formed by the rushing of the waters, led us through several -pretty little villages to Bardoneche. - -I arrived here alone, my companion having left me a couple of hours -before, to explore another valley, whose direction he imagined might -be favourable to his views. The guide conducted me to a curious old -tumble-down sort of house, where an obliging individual, acting in the -various capacities of landlord, waiter, chambermaid, ostler, boots -and cook, set before me the knuckle-end of a cold leg of mutton, a -piece of cream cheese, and a yard of Genoese bread. I made a hearty -dinner, though I should have enjoyed my meal much more had B----e not -been absent. Having sat a long while solus, I strolled away in the -direction by which I had arrived. It was now dark, and fearing that my -companion might have lost his way in the mountains, I was beginning -to feel some alarm for his safety. Having walked upwards of a mile, I -stopped to listen: not a sound, save the rippling of the Dora Susa over -its broad and pebbly bed. At last I bethought myself that a _jodeln_ -might perhaps be of service. I managed so loud a one, that it almost -startled me, but instead of being answered, as I fondly imagined it -might have been, by B----e, it was responded to in one quarter by a -series of echoes so beautifully perfect, that I tried it over and over -again. Listening to the sounds as they died away in the far distance, -I detected one which I felt sure was none of my own raising, and I -had travelled too far not to know that an Irish echo is never heard -south-east of Skibbereen. I listened again, and this time the sound -was so distinct, that I was convinced it came from my friend. Walking -onwards, I soon had the satisfaction of seeing him emerge from the Dora -Susa, which it appeared he had preferred to wade, rather than make a -wide detour along its banks. He had, as I had supposed, lost his way, -and after descending from a lofty part of the mountain, over a tract -of snow, which had wetted him nearly up to his middle, completed the -ducking by a stroll after dusk in the channel of the torrent. - -On returning to our quaint hostelrie, we discussed with the guides the -possibility of crossing the Col de Frejus, whose head was still covered -with a mantle of deep snow. Although quite ready to risk it with us, -they dissuaded us from the attempt, on the ground of our being the -first to venture, besides that the undertaking was by no means easy, -and as we were both too tired to like the idea of turning out of bed -at three in the morning, which would have been necessary to insure a -frozen surface on the snow, we gave up the idea of taking a peep into -France, and decided on a return to Susa. - -We were about starting, after an early breakfast, when our landlord -insisted upon showing us the new church, a mean little white-washed -building, of the most primitive description, although possibly -considered by the unsophisticated Bardonecchians as a gorgeous -temple. The good man appeared much flattered by our praises of its -architectural merits, and accompanied us beyond the precincts of the -village. I became so tired of riding, that I got off my mule to walk, -reaching Oulx long before my companions, and making acquaintance on the -road with a chatty mountaineer, who was on his way to the town to make -some purchases. He got on with my wine-flask very much better than I -with his patois, which was nearly unintelligible. The ride to Susa was -very charming, our guides striking into a bye-path which skirted the -Dora, and disclosed occasional glimpses of most romantic scenery. On -reaching the inn, I found a letter from W--m, recalling me immediately -to Turin, and I was obliged to leave my companion to prosecute his -researches alone, whilst I took a place in the next vettura for that -city. - -My sudden recall had arisen, it appeared, in consequence of a -determination on the part of my friends at Turin, to visit other states -through which the course of the proposed line lay. And here I may draw -my somewhat unconnected narrative to a conclusion. It would be needless -to conduct the reader a second time to Ancona, Florence, and Rome, at -which last-mentioned city we made a stay of a fortnight, to effect -certain arrangements with the late Pope, and the Prince Torlonia, by -whom we were courteously received. From hence a party of us made a -sally to Naples and Leghorn, taking the steamer to Marseilles, and -travelling night and day to Paris in an open britska. Lingering a month -or two in the French capital, I returned to England in the spring, -after an absence of somewhat more than three years. - - -THE END. - - -RICHARD BARRETT, Printer, 13, Mark Lane, London. - - - - -Transcriber’s Notes - -Errors in punctuation have been fixed. - -Apparent errors in spelling and accentuation in languages other than -English were not corrected. - -Page 29: “projector of the orginal Transit Company” changed to -“projector of the original Transit Company” - -Page 30: “gaudy labrynth” changed to “gaudy labyrinth” - -Page 154: “waving all ceremony” changed to “waiving all ceremony” - -Page 191: “extended prespect” changed to “extended prospect” - -Page 222: “geuine Vaterlander” changed to “genuine Vaterlander” - -Page 263: “dispersiou of the crowd” changed to “dispersion of the crowd” - -Page 267: “by Perngia” changed to “by Perugia” - -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SAND AND CANVAS *** - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the -United States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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Thus, we do not -necessarily keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper -edition. - -Most people start at our website which has the main PG search -facility: www.gutenberg.org - -This website includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. diff --git a/old/68780-0.zip b/old/68780-0.zip Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 10e4482..0000000 --- a/old/68780-0.zip +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/68780-h.zip b/old/68780-h.zip Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 2f74f5f..0000000 --- a/old/68780-h.zip +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/68780-h/68780-h.htm b/old/68780-h/68780-h.htm deleted file mode 100644 index 0d06f5d..0000000 --- a/old/68780-h/68780-h.htm +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9075 +0,0 @@ -<!DOCTYPE html> -<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> -<head> - <meta charset="UTF-8" /> - <title> - Sand and Canvas, by Samuel Bevan—A Project Gutenberg eBook - </title> - <link rel="icon" href="images/cover.jpg" type="image/x-cover" /> - <style> /* <![CDATA[ */ - -body { - margin-left: 10%; - margin-right: 10%; -} - - h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { - text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ - clear: both; -} - -p { - margin-top: .51em; - text-align: justify; - margin-bottom: .49em; - text-indent: 1em; -} - -.p2 {margin-top: 2em;} -.p4 {margin-top: 4em;} -.p0 {text-indent: 0em;} - -hr { - width: 33%; - margin-top: 2em; - margin-bottom: 2em; - margin-left: 33.5%; - margin-right: 33.5%; - clear: both; -} - -hr.chap {width: 65%; margin-left: 17.5%; margin-right: 17.5%;} -@media print { hr.chap {display: none; visibility: hidden;} } - -hr.r5 {width: 5%; margin-top: 1em; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 47.5%; margin-right: 47.5%;} - -div.chapter {page-break-before: always;} -h2.nobreak {page-break-before: avoid;} - -table { - margin-left: auto; - margin-right: auto; -} -table.autotable { border-collapse: collapse; width: 60%;} -table.autotable td, -table.autotable th { padding: 4px; } -.x-ebookmaker table {width: 95%;} - -.tdl {text-align: left;} -.tdr {text-align: right;} -.tdc {text-align: center;} -.page {width: 3em; vertical-align: top;} - -.pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ - /* visibility: hidden; */ - position: absolute; - left: 92%; - font-size: smaller; - text-align: right; - font-style: normal; - font-weight: normal; - font-variant: normal; - text-indent: 0; -} - -.blockquot { - margin-left: 5%; - margin-right: 5%; -} - -.center {text-align: center; text-indent: 0em;} - -.smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} - -.caption {font-weight: bold;} - -/* Images */ - -img { - max-width: 100%; - height: auto; -} -img.w75 {width: 75%;} -.x-ebookmaker .w75 {width: 95%;} -.w50 {width: 50%;} -.x-ebookmaker .w50 {width: 75%;} -.w10 {width: 10%;} -.x-ebookmaker .w10 {width: 13%;} - -.figcenter { - margin: auto; - text-align: center; - page-break-inside: avoid; - max-width: 100%; -} - -/* Footnotes */ -.footnotes {border: 1px dashed; margin-top: 1em;} - -.footnote {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 0.9em;} - -.footnote .label {position: absolute; right: 84%; text-align: right;} - -.fnanchor { - vertical-align: super; - font-size: .8em; - text-decoration: - none; -} - -/* Poetry */ -.poetry {text-align: left; margin-left: 5%; margin-right: 5%; text-indent: 0em;} -/* uncomment the next line for centered poetry in browsers */ -/* .poetry {display: inline-block;} */ -/* large inline blocks don't split well on paged devices */ -@media print { .poetry {display: block;} } -.x-ebookmaker .poetry {display: block;} - -/* Transcriber's notes */ -.transnote {background-color: #E6E6FA; - color: black; - font-size:smaller; - padding:0.5em; - margin-bottom:5em; - font-family:sans-serif, serif; } - -.big {font-size: 1.2em;} -.small {font-size: 0.8em;} -.x-ebookmaker .small {font-size: 0.9em;} - -abbr[title] { - text-decoration: none; -} - - /* ]]> */ </style> -</head> -<body> -<p style='text-align:center; font-size:1.2em; font-weight:bold'>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Sand and Canvas, by Samuel Bevan</p> -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online -at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you -are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the -country where you are located before using this eBook. -</div> - -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: Sand and Canvas</p> -<p style='display:block; margin-left:2em; text-indent:0; margin-top:0; margin-bottom:1em;'>Narrative of adventures in Egypt with a sojourn among the artists in Rome</p> -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: Samuel Bevan</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: August 17, 2022 [eBook #68780]</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</p> - <p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; text-align:left'>Produced by: deaurider and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive)</p> -<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SAND AND CANVAS ***</div> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_i">[Pg i]</span></p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="img001"> - <img src="images/001.jpg" class="w50" alt="THE CERVARO CAVES" /> -</span></p> -<p class="center caption">THE CERVARO CAVES.<br /></p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_ii">[Pg ii]</span></p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - - - -<h1> -SAND AND CANVAS;</h1> -<p class="center p2 small">A</p> -<p class="center big"> -NARRATIVE OF ADVENTURES IN EGYPT,</p> -<p class="center p2 small"> -WITH A SOJOURN</p> -<p class="center p2 big"> -AMONG THE ARTISTS IN ROME.</p> -<p class="center p4"> -<span class="smcap">By</span> <span class="big">SAMUEL BEVAN.</span></p> -<p class="center p4"><span class="big"> -LONDON:</span><br /> -CHARLES GILPIN, 5, BISHOPSGATE STREET, WITHOUT.</p> -<hr class="r5" /> -<p class="center small"> -MDCCCXLIX.<br /> -</p> -</div> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_iii">[Pg iii]</span></p> - - -<hr class="x-ebookmaker-drop chap" /> -<div class="chapter"> - -<p class="center p2 small"> -LONDON:<br /> -RICHARD BARRETT, PRINTER,<br /> -MARK LANE.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_iv">[Pg iv]</span></p> - - -</div> -<hr class="x-ebookmaker-drop chap" /> -<div class="chapter"> - -<p class="center small"> -TO<br /> -<br /> -<span class="big">THOMAS WAGHORN, <abbr title="lieutenant">Lieut.</abbr> R.N.,</span><br /> -<br /> -<span class="small">WHO BY HIS OWN<br /> -<br /> -ENERGY, AND INDEFATIGABLE EXERTIONS,<br /> -<br /> -SUCCEEDED IN ESTABLISHING THE PRACTICABILITY<br /> -<br /> -OF THE<br /> -<br /> -OVERLAND ROUTE TO INDIA;<br /> -<br /> -SACRIFICING HIS TIME AND FORTUNE IN DIVESTING THE EGYPTIAN PORTION<br /> -OF THAT ROUTE OF ITS VARIED DISCOMFORTS; FACILITATING BY<br /> -THE AID OF STEAM THE PASSAGE OF THE MAHMOUDIEH<br /> -AND THE NILE; AND RENDERING SAFE, AND<br /> -EVEN AGREEABLE, THE ONCE<br /> -DREADED DESERT,<br /> -<br /> -THESE SKETCHES ARE MOST RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED.</span><br /> -</p> -</div> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_vi">[Pg vi]</span></p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_v">[Pg v]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="PREFACE">PREFACE.</h2> -</div> - -<hr class="r5" /> -<p>The matter contained in the following pages has been gathered from a -diary, in which the incidents of each successive day had been regularly -noted down, not with any intention of subsequently submitting them -to the public, but from a belief that the practice, if not actually -instructive, is at least sure to repay the little trouble it occasions.</p> - -<p>As the writer had not been attracted either to Egypt or Italy, by any -of the usual inducements which influence the generality of travellers, -but had been suddenly transplanted, by a somewhat singular chain of -circumstances, from the yellow fogs of the great Metropolis, to the -bracing air and cloudless skies of the Desert, it was suggested that -a relation of his experiences, might possibly present something new, -even upon <em>those</em> countries, without encroaching upon themes -already exhausted by able and experienced travellers. He has not -therefore, carried the reader into the midst of scenes with which he -is already well acquainted, nor are his pages filled with elaborate -descriptions of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_vii">[Pg vii]</span> churches, temples, and palaces—he has not indulged -in rhapsodies upon the pleasant prospects which greeted him, as well -as his predecessors, in a ramble through the garden of Italy, neither -does he seek to parade his own opinions upon the many glorious works of -art, it has been his good fortune to fall in with. All that awaits the -reader, is a simple narrative of adventures during a few months’ active -employment in Egypt, and a description of such places and things, in -Rome and other Italian cities, as are more immediately connected with -modern Art and its numerous votaries.</p> - -<p>The writer trusts that the title of the present volume is too ambiguous -to allow of any feeling of disappointment being engendered in the minds -of those who may take it up for curiosity’s sake, and as Sand and -Canvas are at the best but dry subjects, it will be hardly fair on the -part of such as consent to follow him to the end, to retaliate on the -score of any previous misconception.</p> - - -<p><i>London, December, 1848.</i></p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_viii">[Pg viii]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CONTENTS">CONTENTS.</h2> -</div> -<hr class="r5" /> - -<table class="autotable"> -<tr><th colspan="2" class="tdr">PAGE.</th></tr> -<tr><td colspan="2" class="tdc"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I.</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdl"> -The author meets with an advertisement in “The Times”—Finds - an unexpected charm in his wig—Undergoes a cross-examination—Receives - his credentials—Mistakes his road, and is set right - by a friend—Eats a farewell dinner at Blackwall—And finally - embarks in a new line of business -</td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_1">1</a> -</td></tr> -<tr><td colspan="2" class="tdc"><a href="#CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II.</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdl"> - Discomforts of the Channel—An unpleasant discovery—Horrors - of the Rotonde—A traveller’s toilette—Chalons sur Soane—Lyons—A - transplanted engineer—The Rhone—Arles—The - Mediterranean—Marseilles -</td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_8">8</a> -</td></tr> -<tr><td colspan="2" class="tdc"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III.</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdl"> - The “Minos”—English and French appetites—Leghorn—Towting - Jews—Civita Vecchia—Naples—Formalities of landing—Malta—<abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> - Portenier—The “Lycurge”—Syra -</td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_16">16</a> -</td></tr> -<tr><td colspan="2" class="tdc"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV.</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdl"> - The harbour of Alexandria—<abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Furner—Scene at the Hard—A - donkey stand—Triumphal entry into the Great Square—The - “India agency”—The English Okella—Plague seals—Confidential - talk—<abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Raven—Hassan, the dragoman—The Bazaars—Arab - shopkeepers—The Harraat—Pompey’s Pillar—The baths - of Cleopatra -</td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_24">24</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_ix">[Pg ix]</span> -</td></tr> -<tr><td colspan="2" class="tdc"><a href="#CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V.</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdl"> - The Café—Arab music—Artful expedient—The Ghawazee and - Kowal—Change of costume—The lady from Beyrout—Odd procession—Showers - of rose water—Arrival of the “Tagus”—The - Overland Mail—Departure of the India-bound passengers—The - Mahmoudieh—Atféh -</td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_35">35</a> -</td></tr> -<tr><td colspan="2" class="tdc"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI.</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdl"> - The Nile steam boat—A deck dinner—Boulac—The Esbekier—The - “Grand Eastern Hotel”—<abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Raven’s office—The transit-business—Loading - of the camels—Departure of the caravan—The Desert—The Stations—Water -</td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_45">45</a> -</td></tr> -<tr><td colspan="2" class="tdc"><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII.</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdl"> - Desert fare—The Bawaub—<abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 4 Station—A siesta—The solitary - tree—Pestilential breezes—A dry well—Suez—Waghorn’s - Hotel—The “Berenice”—Return to Cairo—A thirsty driver—Cool - reception at a warm bath—The pendant rag -</td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_58">58</a> -</td></tr> -<tr><td colspan="2" class="tdc"><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII.</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdl"> - An Egyptian hammam—Inhuman tortures—The barber—The - chiropodist—Delightful respite—Pale ale and Manillas—Raven’s - collection—<abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> A.—Antiquities—<abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Bell—His African adventures—The - White Nile expedition -</td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_70">70</a> -</td></tr> -<tr><td colspan="2" class="tdc"><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">CHAPTER IX.</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdl"> - The Nile boat—Voyage down the river—Defensive preparations—Sudden - squall—Narrow escape—Alexandria—Rival hotels—Lessons - in donkeyship—Domestic cookery—The “Great Liverpool”—Physiology - of the Seis -</td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_82">82</a> -</td></tr> -<tr><td colspan="2" class="tdc"><a href="#CHAPTER_X">CHAPTER X.</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdl"> - Cairo—The Turkish bazaar—Test of a sword blade—The “Little - Nile”—Recollections of the plague—The Eglintoun tents—Proceedings - in the “Great Square”—Astonishment of the Pasha—A - Mahomedan Dinner-party—Novel dishes—A Jewish wedding—Impertinent - curiosity—The bride’s dower—A cunning Hebrew -</td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_93">93</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_x">[Pg x]</span> -</td></tr> -<tr><td colspan="2" class="tdc"><a href="#CHAPTER_XI">CHAPTER XI.</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdl"> - Dwarkanauth Tagore—Storm in the Mahmoudieh—A chapter of - accidents—The half-drowned cadet—Arab knavery—Effects of - the murrain—Donkey-chairs—A midnight gallop—Alteration - in prospect—My van and its occupants—An enraged Portuguese—Disagreeable - situation—Christmas-eve—Midnight interruption—Goose - and Champagne -</td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_106">106</a> -</td></tr> -<tr><td colspan="2" class="tdc"><a href="#CHAPTER_XII">CHAPTER XII.</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdl"> - Influx of travellers—Provision stores—The preserved “round”—New - Year’s-day—Melancholy opening of New Year—Visit to - the Pyramids—Old Selim—A moonlight walk—The Sphynx and - German savans—Ascent of Cheops—The interior of the Pyramids—Unceremonious - intruders—Trial of skill—A crack shot -</td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_123">123</a> -</td></tr> -<tr><td colspan="2" class="tdc"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII">CHAPTER XIII.</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdl"> - The village of Sakhara—Sheik’s house—The brick pyramids—Mummies—The - sacred ibis—Return to Cairo—An agreeable - billet—Preparation for a voyage—Disappointment—A parting—The - last journey across the Desert—A dilemma—Bedouin - Arabs—<abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 4 Station—Departure from Cairo—Dinner at <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> - L.’s—Alexandria -</td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_140">140</a> -</td></tr> -<tr><td colspan="2" class="tdc"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIV">CHAPTER XIV.</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdl"> - The “Minos” again—Café Francais—The Enfield stage—Departure - from Egypt—Change of boats at Syra—A gale in the - Mediterranean—Malta—The quarantine harbour—Fort Manuel—Inquisitive - guardiano—Travellers’ collections—sanitary regulations - and low diet—The parlatori—Resources in quarantine—Happy - release -</td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_156">156</a> -</td></tr> -<tr><td colspan="2" class="tdc"><a href="#CHAPTER_XV">CHAPTER XV.</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdl"> - Choice of a route—The “Ercolano”—Syracuse—The Albergo del - Sole—Sicilian cobbler—The ear of Dionysius—Beautiful gardens—Museum—Messina—Ancient - fresco—Tropea—Stromboli—Naples—“Hotel - de New York”—Herculaneum—Pompeii—Streets—Shops—Private - houses—Progress of excavation -</td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_168">168</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xi">[Pg xi]</span> -</td></tr> -<tr><td colspan="2" class="tdc"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVI">CHAPTER XVI.</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdl"> - The Campo Santo—Churches—The Miserere—Curious sculpture—Agnano—Grotto - del Cane—Frogs—Pozzuolo—Cave of the - sybil—Hot springs—Boiled eggs—Hot sand—No end of phenomena—Baiæ—Vesuvius—Resina—The - hermitage—Fatiguing - ascent—The crater—Coming down with a run—The “Mongibello”—Civita - Vecchia—Rome -</td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_183">183</a> -</td></tr> -<tr><td colspan="2" class="tdc"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVII">CHAPTER XVII.</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdl"> - The Roman Douane—The Hotel Cesarj—Meditations—The Caffé - Greco—Its occupants—Morning walk—Wine carts—The - Ruspoli—Bellamy’s toilet—Preparations for the Cervaro—The - robing-room—Choice of a dress—The livery stable—Porta - Maggiore—The Torre dei Schiave—A grand review—The - quarries—Incantation to the sybil—The dinner—Return to - Rome -</td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_199">199</a> -</td></tr> -<tr><td colspan="2" class="tdc"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVIII">CHAPTER XVIII.</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdl"> - The “Ponte Molle” club—Technical alphabet—Moccoletti—The - black board—Election of candidates—The illustrated chorus—Harmonies—Change - of domicile—The Via Sistina—The Pincian - promenade—Trasteverini—The French Academy—High art - and its votaries—Roman models—Pifferari—Pietro Pombo—The - Via Margutta—L——, and his painting—Extraordinary - model—Pictures and studios -</td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_216">216</a> -</td></tr> -<tr><td colspan="2" class="tdc"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIX">CHAPTER XIX.</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdl"> - The “Greco”—Signor Giovanni—Frequenters of the Barcaccia—Pietro—The - Roman cigar—Caffé du’ Bon Gout—“Punch a la - Romaine”—Italian eating-houses—The Lepri—Old Aurelio—Terribile—Roman - bill of fare—Sweets—English errors—Dessert—The - Lepri Garden—The “Gabbione”—Its neighbourhood—Fried - fish—Alessio—“Una Bomba Alla Cerito” -</td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_235">235</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xii">[Pg xii]</span> -</td></tr> -<tr><td colspan="2" class="tdc"><a href="#CHAPTER_XX">CHAPTER XX.</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdl"> - The tombola—Mausoleum of Augustus—The montgolfier—Curious - finale—The bigliardo—Pool—Sir T. B.—An amusing acquaintance—The - bewildered barber—The dog “Pincio”—Preparations - for Carnival—Bombarding in the Corso—Characters—Charlatans—The - Festini -</td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_247">247</a> -</td></tr> -<tr><td colspan="2" class="tdc"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXI">CHAPTER XXI.</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdl"> - Journey to Florence—My friend Luish—A suspicious landlady—Monterosi—Nepi—The - hotel—Luish’s hat—Civita Castellana—Otricoli—My - washerwoman’s cousin—The merchandize cart—Narni—Terni—Pie-di’-Luco—The - echo—Strittura—Egg diet—Fuligno—Perugia—Boarding-houses—Florence -</td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_264">264</a> -</td></tr> -<tr><td colspan="2" class="tdc"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXII">CHAPTER XXII.</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdl"> - The “Porta Rossa”—Journey to Bologna—The Belli Arti—Arcades—Certosa—Our - fellow-travellers—The parrot—Austrian Douane—Ferrara—Padua—Caffé - Pedrocchi—Venice—The Casa - Raffaelli—Gondolas—Luish’s professional pursuits—My friend - D. again—Titian—Military salute—The Passeggiata -</td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_280">280</a> -</td></tr> -<tr><td colspan="2" class="tdc"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIII">CHAPTER XXIII.</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdl"> - The Caffés of Venice—The “Florian”—The “Imperatore D’Austria”—Piazza—Venetian - hawkers—Musicians—Merchants of Caromel—The - Schiavoni—Italian cards—The Birrarie—San Moise—An - accordeon player—Quintavalle—Queer fish—Dining-rooms—Serenades—Night - on the Grand Canal—The Rialto—San - Lazzaro—Malamocco—Chioggia—Captain Rovere in danger -</td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_298">298</a> -</td></tr> -<tr><td colspan="2" class="tdc"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIV">CHAPTER XXIV.</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdl"> - The Ducal Palace—Bridge of Sighs—The Pozzi—Campanile—View - from the summit—Swifts—The pigeons of <abbr title="saint">St.</abbr> Marks—Departure - from Venice—The Ancona steamer—The Adriatic—Vicissitudes - of a sea-voyage—The unfortunate friar—Pola—Its - antiquities—The hotel—Ancona—The Custom-house—Disappointment—A - village in the Appenines—Fuligno—Assisi—The - boarding-house—San Francesco—Musical shoemakers—Spoleto—My - countrywoman—Terni—Rome -</td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_313">313</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xiii">[Pg xiii]</span> -</td></tr> -<tr><td colspan="2" class="tdc"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXV">CHAPTER XXV.</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdl"> - Change of domicile—Francesco—Friends from England—Picture-shops—Old - painting—Artists and their patrons—<abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Titmarsh—Anecdote - of N—— —The dinner at Bertini’s—The English - Academy—Table talk—Harmony—The Americans—Roman - gaieties—Torlonia’s—The Festini—Hospital of San Michele—The - Quirinal—Via Gregoriana—<abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Raven again—The English - church—The Friends’ meeting-house—Illumination of <abbr title="saint">St.</abbr> - Peter’s -</td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_333">333</a> -</td></tr> -<tr><td colspan="2" class="tdc"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVI">CHAPTER XXVI.</a></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdl"> - Tivoli—Country excursions—Ciciliano—Hospitality of the mountaineers—The - Porta San Lorenzo—Visit to the Governor—Another - start northward—Florence—The Uffizii—S——, and - his head of Velasquez—The flood of the Arno—<abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> M.—Lord D.—Unexpected - summons—Pisa—Leghorn—Genoa—The “Diligence”—Alessandria—Turin—The - railway deputation—Expedition - to the Mont Cenis—Susa—Bardoneche—My friend B.’s - mountain ramble—Successful “Jodeln”—The valley of the - Dora Susa—Departure from Turin—Conclusion -</td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_351">351</a> -</td></tr> -</table><p> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</span></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I.</h2> -</div> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>THE AUTHOR MEETS WITH AN ADVERTISEMENT IN “THE TIMES”—FINDS AN -UNEXPECTED CHARM IN HIS WIG—UNDERGOES A CROSS-EXAMINATION—RECEIVES -HIS CREDENTIALS—MISTAKES HIS ROAD, AND IS SET RIGHT BY A FRIEND—EATS -A FAREWELL DINNER AT BLACKWALL—AND FINALLY EMBARKS IN A NEW LINE OF -BUSINESS.</p> -</div> - - -<p>On a sunny morning in the spring of 184—, I sat lingering over the -remains of a late breakfast, at my lodgings in Regent Street. My deed -of partnership with Messrs. —— having been cancelled but a few days -before, I found myself left without any ostensible means of disposing -advantageously of my time, which began to hang somewhat heavily on my -hands, for although, in London more especially, there are a thousand -ways of <em>killing time</em>, it is by no means so easy to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</span> hit upon -the right method of making the best use of it. Whilst musing on this -subject, my eyes wandered over the columns of the “<i>Times</i>” -newspaper, which lay on the table before me, and having glanced over -sundry announcements of “eligible opportunities,” and notices of -various seductive offers of “Partnership,” my attention was suddenly -arrested by the following: “Wanted immediately, for service in a -foreign country, a gentleman of business-habits and good address. -Salary £250. per annum. All expenses paid. Apply personally to Messrs. -* * * *, Solicitors, Tokenhouse Yard.”</p> - -<p>Whether it was that this particular advertisement seemed to me to -possess a greater claim to good faith than others in the same column, -or that the words “<em>foreign country</em>,” had some particular charm -about them, I know not; all I can say is, that in a quarter of an hour -after the third or fourth reading of it, I was on my way to Tokenhouse -Yard, having paid a rather more than ordinary attention to the -appearance of my outer man.</p> - -<p>Arrived at the office of the solicitors, I found upon the staircase, -some ten or more persons of various degrees of respectability, each of -whom seemed to be regarding a scrap of paper which he held in his hand. -With a similar document,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</span> I, in my turn was duly served, and found it -inscribed, “* * * * of the Overland, 34, Cornhill, destination Egypt.” -I followed the rest of my fellow-candidates, for such they doubtless -were, into Cornhill, although by the time we got there, I remarked that -the number of them was sensibly diminished; but not daring to enter the -lists with so many individuals, who, if not exactly “<em>gentlemen</em>,” -might possibly, in the terms of the advertisement, be more accustomed -to “<em>business habits</em>” than myself, I took the precaution of -waiting in ambush near the street door, until, one by one, I had -counted them all out. As I watched their faces to mark what success -they might have met with, I was not very greatly surprised to hear some -such expressions as “No go,” “Walker,” &c., and gathered considerable -encouragement therefrom. Having seen the last of them out, I presented -myself and paper, and was ushered through an outer office, into the -presence of the great “Overland” himself, who, receiving me with a bow, -inquired if I came from his solicitors.</p> - -<p>“I do.”</p> - -<p>“Then go, Sir, and get your hair cut, and return here in a quarter of -an hour.”</p> - -<p>This cool reception might have damped the courage of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</span> any applicant not -quite so <em>hard up</em> as myself, and probably if used, had its weight -with many of those who had preceded me. I stood my ground however, and -removing my wig, (rather an exuberant one, by Truefit,) I rammed it -into my hat.</p> - -<p>“Pray, Sir, be seated,” said the “Overland.”</p> - -<p>I took a chair and screwed up my courage for a cross-examination.</p> - -<p>“Can you drive an engine?”</p> - -<p>“I can.”</p> - -<p>“Can you speak French?”</p> - -<p>“Yes.”</p> - -<p>“German and Italian?”</p> - -<p>I nodded affirmatively.</p> - -<p>“Arabic?” I was about to assent to this query also, but suddenly -recollecting that my interrogator might himself be an adept at that -tongue, I seasoned my denial with the assurance that I could make -myself master of it in a fortnight.</p> - -<p>“Do you understand book-keeping by doubly entry?”</p> - -<p>Here <em>was</em> a poser. I have since wondered how I ever got over it. -I winked at the Overland, and replied, “I <em>ought</em> to.”</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</span></p> - -<p>“I think you’ll do, Sir,” was his rejoinder; “come and breakfast with -me to-morrow morning.” I bowed and withdrew, and whilst adjusting my -wig in the outer office, I heard an order given to the head clerk -to admit no more applicants. This I regarded as a sure earnest of -an engagement, and began to feel myself a man of business again. I -fancied myself a full head taller than before, and stooped very low -as I threaded some narrow archways near the Bank. How I got home, I -cannot distinctly remember, but I packed my portmanteau in readiness -for an immediate departure, in spite of the remonstrances of my worthy -landlady, who looked on a journey to Egypt in the light of a wanton -sacrifice of my life, assuring me that I should die of the plague in -less than a week after I got there, and making me promise that I would -send her off a mummy immediately on my arrival.</p> - -<p>I was punctual to my appointment next morning, and it was fortunate -that I was so, for * * * * was never known to be a minute behind -time in any thing, and was in the act of pouring out my cup of tea -when I entered his apartment. Had I been four minutes later, I might -have whistled for my new engagement. Our breakfast over, and some -preliminary matters discussed, we hastened to the office.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</span></p> - -<p>“Is that letter ready, <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Wateley? Very good. Now, Sir, here are your -credentials; deliver that document on your arrival in Alexandria, to -which you are booked through, viâ Marseilles: call here to-morrow -morning at eight for your despatches, take this cheque, and don’t -bother me any more. Good morning!”</p> - -<p>And the “Overland” vanished into the inner office—the door was shut, -and I <em>never</em> saw him afterwards!</p> - -<p>I suppose I must have stood transfixed for a few moments, for I caught -a juvenile clerk grinning at me like a fiend. Feeling, that if I -hesitated, I ran a chance of being recalled, and losing my new honours, -I ran off to Lombard Street with the cheque; and had the banker’s clerk -asked me if it were honestly come by, I believe I should have answered -in the negative, being somewhat confused by the odd chain of events, -brought about during the last twenty-four hours.</p> - -<p>As I hurried through Cheapside, on my return from the Bank, a hand was -laid on my shoulder, and a familiar voice inquired, “Where I was off -to so fast?” “To Cairo,” I replied, and was again making away, when -my friend politely insinuated that I was on the wrong tack, and ought -to have gone down Leadenhall Street. He was right, and in return for -his information, I consented to partake of some sherry<span class="pagenum" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</span> and biscuit -at his counting-house hard by. Here I fell in with one or two others, -who, hearing of the turn my affairs had taken, insisted on my spending -a last evening in their company, and carried me off to a white-bait -dinner at Blackwall, from which we did not return until near midnight.</p> - -<p>I was awakened early the next morning by one of my companions of the -dinner-party, who had made up his mind to see me as far as Paris. He -reminded me of what I had somehow or other totally forgotten, that -passports might <em>possibly</em> be necessary, and in our hurry to -secure these troublesome documents, we overlooked other matters of -equal or even greater importance. I turned my back upon London with -considerable pleasure, finding that the anticipation of novelty and -change of scene, shut the door in the face of all the varied regrets -and emotions which had accompanied my former leave-takings. I felt -myself cast once more upon the world, to begin life as it were, -over again among new scenes and fresh faces, and although I could -scarcely be said to have a very distinct idea, either of my ultimate -destination, or of the occupation in store for me, I felt prepared to -view all <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">en couleur de rose</i>, and steer a straight-forward course -through all difficulties.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II.</h2> -</div> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>DISCOMFORTS OF THE CHANNEL—AN UNPLEASANT DISCOVERY—HORRORS OF -THE ROTONDE—A TRAVELLER’S TOILETTE—CHALONS SUR SOANE—LYONS—A -TRANSPLANTED ENGINEER—THE RHONE—ARLES—THE MEDITERRANEAN—MARSEILLES.</p> -</div> - - -<p>My friend and I embarked at Southampton about nightfall, in the -“Robert Burns,” but had scarcely been an hour under weigh, before the -breakage of a piston-key occurred, of which the necessary repair caused -considerable delay. A fresh breeze too springing up, introduced us to -all the horrors of a Channel trip, affording the ladies a good pretext -for imbibing sundry steaming glasses of brandy and water, which, as -I sat on deck, I remarked disappearing by twos and threes down the -“companion.” One good lady solemnly protested that nothing should ever -induce her to return to England by <em>water</em>. I fear it will be a -long while before she gets back again.</p> - -<p>On landing at Havre, it occurred to me that I had entirely forgotten to -call at the Overland office for the despatches I was to carry out to -Alexandria. A pretty sample this of my<span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</span> talent for “business!” I was at -a loss whether to go forward or return to London for them, but finding -that I had at least safely retained <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Wateley’s letter, which would -serve as an introduction for me, I hurried my friend to the Diligence -office, and secured the coupè for Paris.</p> - -<p>Here I made a halt of one night only, finding, on inquiry at the bureau -of Lafitte, Caillard, that my place was duly booked to Marseilles. -Every one knows the misery of a protracted journey in the “rotonde” -of a French diligence: the wearisome imprisonment of two nights and -days, rendered doubly agonizing by the horrors of a middle seat, where -the unfortunate traveller, lulled perchance by fatigue into temporary -forgetfulness, seeks a pillow on the shoulder of one neighbour, to be -gruntingly repulsed to that of another, equally inexorable. I need -not therefore describe the coach breakfast at Auxerre, nor how we all -fought for a pie-dish of cold water at Saulieu to lay the dust in -our eyes; nor how the conductor, in a blue blouse, would insist upon -squeezing himself in among us, to have a whiff at his pipe, because -three out of the four in the rotonde were comely French lasses, and the -only females in the vehicle.</p> - -<p>We reached Chalons sur Soane at last, though only just in time for -the steamer, which was on the point of starting as<span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</span> we drove on to -the quay. My unfortunate portmanteau was in fact the last article -which found its way on board after me, as I made a desperate leap to -the paddle box, which I succeeded in reaching with difficulty. Paying -immediate court to the steward, I obtained just enough water to relieve -my face from its thick coating of white dust, and then sat down to some -mutton and olives, which served, when moistened by a bottle of the -<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Viu du pays</i>, to restore my equanimity, though I did not feel -fairly comfortable until after a warm bath at the Hotel de Provence at -Lyons. Here I wrote a few letters, and read for the twentieth time my -introductory letter to the agent at Alexandria, which consisted at the -very most of five lines, and entered into no particulars of the service -for which I had been engaged, referring for such, to the despatches I -had so unaccountably left behind me.</p> - -<p>The following morning dawned as brightly as the most fastidious -traveller could desire, and the waiter having called me full two hours -earlier than there was any occasion for, I had ample time to enjoy my -<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">matin</i> of coffee before going down to the quay, where the Arles -steamer lay at her moorings. Here all was bustle and activity, and -every one seemed so busy, that I had explored nearly the whole of the -ship before any one took any notice of me, and was proceeding to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</span> make -a critical survey of the engine-room, when a surly voice inquired, “Now -then, wot are <em>you</em> arter?” I had scarce time to reply, before I -was recognized by the querist, one of M.’s old men, promoted to the -drivership of a Rhone steamer. The conversation of this man, during the -time occupied in getting up the steam, afforded me no little amusement, -for he was full of the grievances of French habits and customs, and -declared he should never be quite <em>comfortable like</em>, until he had -taken a drink of beer “out of the pewter.”</p> - -<p>On emerging from the hot and greasy engine-room into upper air, I found -the deck completely covered with huge bales of merchandize, going -to Beaucaire, where there is a very large annual fair. We had too a -considerable number of passengers, and it was long past the right hour -for starting, when we cast off, and floated quickly into the middle -of the <i>Rhone</i>, which is extremely rapid, and carried us down -at the rate of twelve or fourteen knots an hour. We touched at many -large towns in our passage down the river, and the manœuvering of our -captain to effect a stoppage in the right place was somewhat curious. -His order (in English) to “ease her” would be given about a furlong -above the particular point to be made, and our vessel’s head brought -round towards the current, as she drifted downwards. Then followed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</span> the -order “go on ahead;” and thus with about half steam on, and apparently -retracing our course, we generally managed to hit the place to a nicety.</p> - -<p>The banks of the Rhone, though generally but little wooded, are, in -some places, highly picturesque. Here and there, an old castle in -ruins, perched on a high and naked rock, forms a pretty feature in the -passing landscape, though we shot so quickly by, that we had barely -time to remark anything. As we neared the Pont du <abbr title="saint">St.</abbr> Esprit, the -river became more rapid, and when I caught sight of the bridge, with -its twenty or more arches, and compared their apparent width with that -of our good ship, I confess to having shared rather largely in the -general feeling of uneasiness, and selected a loose table to lay hold -of in the event of a smash. We shot through, however, almost before -we were aware of it, clearing the sides by a foot or two only. The -dexterity with which the Rhone pilots manage these large vessels in -so swift a stream is really remarkable. At Avignon we put on shore -many of our passengers, who preferred proceeding by “diligence” to -Marseilles, and at Beaucaire we were detained an hour in discharging -our bulky merchandize, so that it was dark ere we made a final halt at -Arles, a town of considerable antiquity, on the left bank of the river. -There was a great<span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</span> scrimmage for beds on the part of some few of the -English on board; for our countrymen, when on their travels, are very -prone to betray a feeling of selfishness, which astonishes, and often -disgusts, our neighbours on the other side the Channel. I stuck to my -trunks, which I am never satisfied to leave to the tender mercies of a -porter, and on arriving at the wretched inn, I found but one bed-room -unoccupied, and this I was glad enough to appropriate, although my -mattress of Indian corn was so filled with sundry unpleasant nocturnal -disturbers, that I had no great reason to be elated at my good fortune.</p> - -<p>I had no time to view the antiquities of the ancient city of Arles, -so was fain to satisfy myself with a sufficiently lucid description -of them, to be found in Murray’s hand-book. We had a delightful steam -to Marseilles, though the change from the sweetness of the sea-breeze -and blue water, to the stinks and exhalations of its closed harbour, -was any thing but refreshing. From its very narrow outlet, the -port of Marseilles is perhaps as bad in this respect as any in the -Mediterranean. The custom-house was soon passed, for, contrary to my -expectation, I had nothing to pay. How they manage to keep a watch over -the whole of this large harbour, I can scarcely imagine; land where -you will, at<span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</span> any of its numberless steps, or jump quietly ashore from -between the hulks of two big ships, and you are equally sure to be -popped upon by some sleepless custom-house official.</p> - -<p>I took up my quarters at the “Hotel Paradis,” agreeably to a -recommendation I had received before leaving London, and a more -comfortable inn I was seldom at, though at many a more expensive one. -On going down to the quay appropriated to the Levant steamers, I -discovered that a berth had been secured for me as far as Alexandria, -on board the “Minos,” and that she was not to sail for two days. These -I employed in seeing what I could of the town and its environs, though -there is but little to interest the passing stranger. I think the -greater part of my time was spent in rattling about in “cabriolets,” -for the heat was so oppressive that to walk with any comfort was -impossible. On a hill above the town, there are some pleasant gardens, -laid out by Napoleon, which command a beautiful sea-view. Here of -an evening, one may meet the worthy Marsiglians, with their wives -and daughters, who enjoy their coffee and small beer, away from the -dust and heat of the city. I had the temerity to venture into the -theatre, but before the end of the first act, was glad to make a -precipitate retreat in favour<span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</span> of a neighbouring “cafè,” where, sipping -raspberry-water, I was treated to a concert on the gratis principle, -which I found nearly as good as “Les Diamans de la Couronne,” much -cooler, and less expensive.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III.</h2> -</div> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>THE “MINOS”—ENGLISH AND FRENCH APPETITES—LEGHORN—TOWTING -JEWS—CIVITA VECCHIA—NAPLES—FORMALITIES OF LANDING—MALTA—MR. -PORTENIER—THE “LYCURGE”—SYRA.</p> -</div> - - -<p>I quitted Marseilles in the “Minos” steamer on the evening of June -21st, in company with some twenty fellow-passengers, bound to various -parts of the Mediterranean. Amongst them was the venerable Bishop of -Antioch, with a numerous suite of attendant priests, and a sprinkling -of my own countrypeople; but I soon discovered that I was the only -passenger going to the far East. The “Minos” is one of a fine class -of armed French steamers, which serve the Mediterranean, running from -Marseilles to Malta, Syra and Alexandria, calling at most of the larger -ports on the southern coast of Italy. The accommodation on board these -vessels is perfect, and the discipline of the first order, and they -are withal so strongly built, that they defy the ugliest weather, and -are very rarely overdue. I found myself in possession of a snug berth -in the second cabin, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</span> at dinner-time made the acquaintance of my -fellow-travellers, the ship’s doctor taking the head of the table. -Two meals, the one a dejeuner à la fourchette at ten, the other, a -plentiful dinner at five o’clock, were the only ones I ever got a sight -of, such being included in the cabin fare; and as I was invariably -ready for breakfast long before ten, and always hungry again after -dinner, I became a pretty good customer of the cook on deck, who by -the time I had finished my voyage, had a considerable score against -me for sundry stray cutlets and “cornichons,” devoured at the door of -the caboose, to the great surprise of the captain and his officers, -who made no allowance for the appetizing effect of the sea-breeze and -bracing air of the Mediterranean.</p> - -<p>The sudden stopping of the monotonous jog of the engines, awoke me -about half-past six on the second morning of our voyage. On gaining the -deck, I found we had dropped anchor off Leghorn, famed as I rightly -remembered, for straw-bonnets and Jews. Having taken the precaution at -Marseilles, to have my passport properly <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">visè</i>, I accompanied -two French gentlemen on shore, to wile away the few hours of our stay, -and by way of a cicerone, we took into our service the loquacious old -boatman who conveyed us to land. There are not many objects of interest -at<span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</span> Leghorn, which can be visited within the compass of a few hours. -The English cemetery possesses a melancholy sort of attraction, and -is well worth seeing, though it is not the most cheering thing to -loiter among the graves of one’s countrymen, and decipher epitaphs upon -disasters at sea and cholera morbus.</p> - -<p>The chief street of the town is lined on either side with excellent -shops, abounding with wares from all parts of the globe; whilst -perambulating vendors of razors and pocket-pistols, besiege you at -every ten paces, not to mention the Jew drapers, who, like their -brethren in Holywell Street, <i>towt</i> in person at their own -shop-doors to entreat an inspection of their goods. One street is a -perfect Bazaar of yellow-looking ornaments, in thin gold and filigree -work, such as brooches, and enormous ear-drops, highly prized by the -dressy Contadine.</p> - -<p>The following day, we paid a similar brief and passing visit at -Civita Vecchia, a papal port, of much less importance than Leghorn, -although its contiguity to Rome causes considerable traffic. We passed -afterwards close to the Island of Elba, reaching the Bay of Naples on -the twenty-fifth, or in three days and two nights from Marseilles, -including our protracted stoppages. The view from our anchorage was<span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</span> -beautiful in the extreme, appearing very different from anything I had -been led to expect from the accounts of travelled acquaintance, who are -fond of comparing the Bay of Naples to that of Swansea, which latter, -although pretty enough, lacks the all-important features of islands -and volcano, and is seldom to be seen in the colours afforded by an -Italian atmosphere. Previous to going on shore, our captain intimated -that our stay was limited to four hours, a piece of information which -decided me on making no effort to see anything of the town, resolving, -however, to return to Naples at some future period, to feast at leisure -on its beauties. I was not suffered to land without showing my passport -in three several places, and being felt all over by a dirty underling -officer, whose delight was extreme on finding in my case two cigars, -the last of my small stock from England. He was making off, to hand -them (as he said) to his superior, when I thought it better to make -a compromise by giving him one, whilst I put the other in my mouth. -Nothing can exceed the vigilance of a Neapolitan in his search after -tobacco, of which the importation is strictly forbidden. I was detained -so very long by the formalities of landing, that by the time I had -edged my way through a densely crowded market, in a street contiguous -to the shore, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</span> made sundry stoppages at the little stalls where -cooling drinks are sold, I found my furlough very nearly expired. At -this time I could speak no Italian whatever, and know not how I managed -to make myself intelligible in certain inquiries about the Toledo, -which I was anxious to reach; but I am very sure that I never got so -far, and that after walking a long way to no purpose, I was compelled -to retrace my steps and return to the “Minos.”</p> - -<p>Two more weary days of steaming brought us to Malta, and a truce -to the miseries of passports and customs. I had no sooner finished -dressing, for it was quite early when we entered the harbour, than a -portly individual descended into the cabin, inquiring if <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> W——n, -were on board. The inquiry being made in English, I replied at once -in the negative; and learning that my questioner was W——n’s agent -in Malta, I showed him my letter of introduction to <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Portenier of -Alexandria. “Hah!” said he, as he rapidly scanned it, “I shall then -have the pleasure of introducing you, as <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Portenier is here at this -moment on his way to England.” We then hailed a boat and rowed away -to the quarantine harbour, where, on landing at the lazaretto, I was -forthwith made acquainted with a gentleman, who was leaning over a -rail in company with a dozen others, all busily<span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</span> engaged in sucking -oranges—I was most politely received,—and upon hearing my letter, -for I was not allowed to place it in his hands, my new acquaintance -wished me a pleasant voyage, saying that I should find <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Furner -in Alexandria, who would receive me in his stead, and give me all -necessary instructions. I made some few inquiries as to the nature -of my probable employment in Egypt, but received no more definite an -answer than that I should find out when I got there! Telling me that he -would be back again in September, we wished each other “good morning,” -and <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Gallia, for such was the name of my Maltese friend, conducted -me to his office in the town.</p> - -<p>Malta is certainly not the most agreeable place to walk about in on -a broiling hot morning, and we ascended so many steep steps, and had -so much ground to get over, that I was heartily tired by the time -we reached <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Gallia’s place of business, where I waited for a few -letters, and then begged to be recommended to some good hotel, where I -could find a warm bath and a breakfast. My request was met half way, by -a very polite offer of the services of one of the juniors to shew me -about the place, a proposal which I accepted with many acknowledgments. -We visited the governor’s palace, and mounted to the telegraph tower, -from whence is a good<span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</span> view over the island. It appears remarkably -sterile, and exhibits little more than low ranges of naked hills, with -here and there an insignificant village. The church of <abbr title="saint">St.</abbr> John abounds -with interesting mementos of the Knights of Malta, and boasts some -good tapestries and paintings, and an <em>extraordinary</em> altar-piece -of lapis-lazuli, the which, all and sundry may be found described in -detail in every guide book to the East, and need no further comment on -my part. My kind cicerone dined with me at Baker’s Hotel, introducing -me to some novel fruits and dishes. Altogether I was much gratified -with my one day in Malta, where an English sovereign changes for -twenty shillings and sixpence, and “Cote Roti” is only half-a-crown -the bottle. Here I quitted the “Minos” for the “Lycurge,” another -steamer of the same size, and once on board, I discovered that I was -in quarantine, and entirely cut off from all further communication -with the shore. My baggage was all stowed in my berth, even to the -portmanteau, which is not generally allowed below; and I pounced with -much delight upon a clean shirt and other luxuries, which I feared I -should have difficulty in obtaining.</p> - -<p>On touching at Syra, where we fell in with the line of steamers from -Constantinople, we took on board a number of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</span> Turkish families, -which gave our deck, for they were none of them cabin passengers, a -very novel appearance. The men smoked away the time on their prayer -carpets, watching the gambols of their children, and leaving unheeded -and unnoticed the poor women, who sat huddled away in one mass as much -out of view as possible, and veiled up to the eyes in black silk. At -their mid-day meal, however, there was a general commotion, and a -great scrambling round a large wooden bowl of mish-mish, into which -all dipped their fingers most unceremoniously. In return for a pencil -sketch which I made of one of the men, I was invited to partake of -his coffee and pipe, and a seat on his mat—though I found the latter -involved so very uncomfortable a position, that I could not long enjoy -his company. The coffee and long chibouk were excellent.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV.</h2> -</div> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>THE HARBOUR OF ALEXANDRIA—MR. FURNER—SCENE AT THE HARD—A DONKEY -STAND—TRIUMPHAL ENTRY INTO THE GREAT SQUARE—THE “INDIA AGENCY”—THE -ENGLISH OKELLA—PLAGUE SEALS—CONFIDENTIAL TALK—MR. RAVEN—HASSAN, -THE DRAGOMAN—THE BAZAARS—ARAB SHOPKEEPERS—THE HARRAAT—POMPEY’S -PILLAR—THE BATHS OF CLEOPATRA.</p> -</div> - - -<p>We reached Alexandria on the 2nd of July, and long before our paddles -had ceased moving, we were besieged by a clamorous set of savages in -boats, who, clinging to the sides of our vessel, were plentifully -greeted with hot water, by the captain’s order, and compelled to -retire to a respectful distance, whilst they kept up a continued -fire of Arabic, and caused us no little amusement. This was my first -introduction to the Modern Egyptians, and when I looked from these -half-naked fellows to the shore, and saw the long row-range of -sand-hills, and the dismal looking habitations that studded the sides -of the harbour, I thought my lines could hardly be said to be cast in -pleasant places. Much time was not, however, given me for reflection, -as the dropping of the anchor soon aroused me from my reverie. The -passengers got away<span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</span> in small parties, reaching the shore in boats, -and I was leaning over the ship’s side to make my selection, when a -big-whiskered Frank underneath, startled me with a “Hallo! there; are -you for Waghorn?” My reply was followed by an invitation to get into -his boat. As we rowed ashore, I found that I had fallen into the hands -of <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Furner, the very man of whom Portenier had made mention as his -<i lang="la" xml:lang="la">locum tenens</i>.</p> - -<p>I shall never forget the scene that awaited us on landing at the -hard. Camels, donkeys, merchandize of every description, shrieking -women, boys, and greasy Arabs, were jumbled together in indescribable -confusion; the men fighting and cuffing one another, with the most -violent gesticulations, in their anxiety to appropriate the luggage -of the newly arrived passengers, in order to convey it to the city. -Furner, armed with a huge whip, which I learnt to call by the name -of “<i>Korbash</i>,” dealt his blows right and left on the heads and -shoulders of the natives, and speedily cleared a way for us to where -a group of donkeys were standing, all saddled and bridled. My friend, -selecting the two which he considered the best, told me to mount; -an injunction which I mechanically obeyed, for I scarcely knew what -I was doing, and was querying with myself whether my Ramsgate and -Blackheath<span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</span> experience in donkey-exercise would avail me aught on -the present occasion. The saddles were of stuffed carpet, and very -high, and my stirrup-leather broke with me on getting up, an accident -no sooner remarked by Furner, than my donkey-boy was rewarded with -a little of the “korbash.” To tie it up again, was the work of a -moment, and then off we went at a gallop, with a boy at each tail, -through some narrow streets, between high walls, where, in addition -to the exertion required in keeping my seat, I had continually to bob -my head to avoid being knocked off my perch by some passing camel, -which, with its ponderous and enormous load, would fill up the whole -of the street. Ever and anon, my donkey-boy, by a fearful thwack “<i lang="la" xml:lang="la">a -posteriori</i>,” would give my animal a right or left-handed bias, -sufficient almost to make me lose my equilibrium, while Furner, who -rode behind, could scarce keep his seat for laughter. Five minutes -hard riding brought us into the middle of a crowded bazaar, and we -were forced to relapse into a trot, our boys clearing a space before -us by repeated cries of “<i>shimalek! aminak! ariglak!</i>”<a id="FNanchor_1" href="#Footnote_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> &c. The -scrambling about of the poor Arab women, in their efforts to get out of -the way, was at once ludicrous and painful; and I was unfeignedly glad -when we<span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</span> suddenly emerged into the great square of Alexandria, and -pulled up at the door of “Waghorn’s India agency.”</p> -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="img002"> - <img src="images/002.jpg" class="w75" alt="THE AUTHOR’S ENTRY INTO ALEXANDRIA" /> -</span></p> -<p class="center caption">THE AUTHOR’S ENTRY INTO ALEXANDRIA.<br /></p> - - -<p>Hitherto, I had had little or no opportunity of saying anything -respecting my own business, to Furner, who had very naturally taken -me for an India-bound passenger, and it was, therefore, with some -degree of surprise that he perused <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Waghorn’s letter to Portenier. -I was saved for the moment from the deluge of questions with which he -seemed ready to overwhelm me, by his suddenly calling to mind that it -was considerably past his ordinary breakfast hour; and having learned -just enough to satisfy him that I was a duly accredited agent of the -“Overland,” he politely asked me to share his morning meal. He was -living, he said, in one of Waghorn’s houses in the English “okella,” -where, as Portenier was away, there would be ample room for me, and -thither accordingly, he sent my portmanteau. Crossing the Great Square, -and entering a large gateway, we ascended to a covered gallery, -extending round the inner sides of the “<i>okella</i>,” and forming -a sort of common hall of entrance to the numerous houses therein -comprised. I remarked on each door that we passed, one or more spots of -red wax. This, Furner informed me, was the plague-seal, placed there -by the authorities, to prevent the egress of the inmates,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</span> though he -immediately relieved my now critically sensitive nerves, by adding, -that they were at least of two years’ standing.</p> - -<p>Furner’s dwelling consisted of a large upper-floor of five rooms, with -kitchen and servants’ rooms above, the whole sumptuously furnished -according to the Eastern notions of comfort, with elegant divans and -polished stone floors. I was too hungry on entering to take more than -a hasty survey of what I saw, the more especially as sundry tempting -looking dishes of novel appearance stood ready on the breakfast table, -beside a noble Britannia metal tea-pot, which possessed for me a -peculiar charm, after having been debarred for a whole week from a -taste of the grateful infusion. As we refreshed ourselves, I acquainted -Furner with the circumstances under which I had arrived in Egypt, -detailing to him my engagement with <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Waghorn, and receiving in -return a description of my future companions in office, with divers -hints of a friendly nature as to the position I ought to take up among -them. This I found to be chiefly regulated by the nature of our several -engagements, and had the satisfaction of learning from Furner that -I was appointed to as good a post as any one, and equal in point of -emolument to that of any English <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">employè</i> in Egypt.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</span></p> - -<p>We had scarcely finished our meal, when a loud thumping at the -outer-door announced a visitor. This proved to be <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Raven, the -resident partner, fresh from Cairo, to whom I was forthwith introduced. -This gentleman was, in the first instance connected with a <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Hill, -who is since deceased, and has done a great deal towards establishing -and improving the communication between Cairo and Suez, having been -indeed, in conjunction with his late associate, one, if not <em>the</em> -projector of the original Transit Company. It needed however the -enterprizing spirit and untiring perseverance of <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Waghorn, before -the undertaking could be brought to assume any thing like a flourishing -appearance; and now that the energies of both are united in one common -object, the Egyptian portion of the Overland journey is as perfect as -individuals<a id="FNanchor_2" href="#Footnote_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> can make it.</p> - -<p>From <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Raven, who had been apprised by letter of my anticipated -arrival, I received orders to await the arrival of the next steamer -from Southampton, and conduct the passengers to Cairo, which would, he -added, give me a tolerably good insight into the routine of business. -As it wanted<span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</span> nearly a fortnight to such time, I found I should have -ample leisure to make myself acquainted with Alexandria, and to pick -up, if possible, some few sentences of Arabic. For this purpose I -enlisted into my service the most sagacious of our Dragomen, whom I -found a very useful and intelligent fellow. As he possessed a good -knowledge of English, he served me as a walking lexicon, and would -render for me the more familiar words and sentences, taking great pains -to ensure their correct accent.</p> - -<p>Our first day’s ramble was confined pretty much to the Bazaars, which -form the stranger’s chief object of attraction in an oriental town. -Different quarters are devoted to the sale of the various sorts of -merchandize, and you may pass successively through an avenue of -tailors’ shops, a street of dried dates and quaint-looking groceries, a -gaudy labyrinth of rugs and prayer-carpets, and a lane of pipe-sticks -and tobacco shops. These are for the most part protected from the -sun by a loose boarding over head, devoid of all nails or fastening, -so that in blusterous weather, the passer-by is occasionally greeted -with a falling plank or stray piece of timber, dislodged by the wind. -It requires also considerable caution in threading your way through -these narrow passages, as in endeavouring to avoid the heavy tread of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</span> -a laden camel, you are possibly knocked down by a donkey, or receive -an unwelcome salute in the side or stomach from the bony knee of its -rider, who passes quickly onward without a murmur of apology.</p> - -<p>The shops which compose these Bazaars, are neither more nor less than -large wooden boxes, ranged along a raised platform on either side -the way, open only in front, and furnished with shutters and wooden -locks, which are secured at night and during the <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">siesta</i>. Some -have a neat sort of railing, and are provided with little seats and -stuffed cushions, to which a purchaser to any considerable extent is -immediately invited and served with a <i>chibouke</i>. During the -puffing that ensues, the buyer and seller are occupied in settling the -price of the required commodity, the one offering half as much as he -intends to give, and the other asking double what he thinks of taking, -so that, at the end may be of half-an-hour, they contrive to meet, and -a little cup of thick unsweetened coffee from a neighbouring shop, -completes the bargain. The purchaser is expected to give a trifling -present to the servant of the merchant, who helps him on with his -slippers, left during the interview, in the street below.</p> - -<p>The “Harraat,” or walking-auction, forms a most amusing<span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</span> scene, and -in order to view it to the best advantage, Hassan got me a seat on -the divan of one of his acquaintance in the Bazaar. The goods to be -disposed of, are held at arm’s length above the head, and as soon -as the owner has obtained a reasonable offer, he rushes up and down -the Bazaar shouting “harraat, harraat!” getting every now and then a -fresh bid until he finds no one is inclined to advance, when he is -compelled to let his wares go to the last bidder. In this manner I -saw silver-mounted pistols sold for fifteen shillings the pair; Arab -scymitars, jackets and waistcoats embroidered with lace, scarfs, -ink-stands, and red caps, and some amber mouth-pieces; of these some -would fetch their full value, whilst others would go for a mere song: -and on the whole I would rather purchase in the “harraat,” than run the -risk of a lengthy bargain at a shop.</p> - -<p>In the evening, Furner insisted on my taking another lesson in -donkey-riding, so selecting two of the best looking from the -<i>stand</i> close to our office door, we cantered through the square -towards Cleopatra’s Needle, which forms a prominent object on the -sea-shore, just outside the town. On our way, we passed through a dirty -Arab village, where we were besieged by a crowd of urchins who begged -of and then threw stones at us. We were compelled to gallop away<span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</span> as -fast as our donkeys would go, to get out of the reach of the heavy -missiles with which they occasionally obliged us, though had their -numbers been less formidable, it is probable we should have stood our -ground and shewed fight. For this sort of reception we were indebted -to our Frank costume; for I found a few weeks afterwards, when I had -adopted the dress of the country, that I could pass the same spot, and -others equally notorious, unmolested.</p> - -<p>From the Needles, we made a long round to Pompey’s Pillar and the Baths -of Cleopatra. There is a good view from the base of the former over -the Mahmoudieh Canal, which fertilizes in its course a narrow strip -of country, and studded as it mostly is with numerous sails, forms a -curious feature in the landscape. The pillar stands out in solitary -grandeur from a vast plain of ruins and tombs, the site of ancient -Alexandria. Hard by is a little building bearing some resemblance to -a temple; this is a refuge for hard-pressed debtors, a strong-hold -against all pursuit, and so long as they remain under its friendly -shelter, neither law nor remorseless creditor has power to lay hands -upon them. Our road to what are said to be the Baths of Cleopatra, lay -through a bustling and most dirty street of low Arab dwellings, to a -kind of quay or shipping place for corn, near to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</span> which is a group of -quaint looking wind-mills with six or eight sails each, the whole in -full motion, spinning round with a rushing noise that sorely alarmed -our poor donkeys, although it served to prove to us that there was at -least no lack of corn in Egypt. A dusty gallop of another mile then -brought us to the shore, where we tethered our beasts, and proceeded to -examine the spot where it is alleged that the “Queen of Beauty” used to -perform her ablutions. The Baths consist of three or four rocky caves -open to the sea, where sheltered from the scorching rays of the sun, -the water acquires an enticing temperature, and ripples in and out at a -depth of several feet. Close by the Baths, in a sandy cliff, are some -excavations of prodigious size, which an old Arab informed us were -Catacombs, but as they contain no bones or relics of mortality, and do -not even boast of a stray skull or two, he found us somewhat sceptical; -the old man conducted us through the outermost apartments, but having -no candles, and the evening closing in, we could see but little of -their dimensions, so pitching him a few paras we hastened homewards.</p> - - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_1" href="#FNanchor_1" class="label">[1]</a> “To the left; to the right; mind your legs!”</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_2" href="#FNanchor_2" class="label">[2]</a> Since leaving Egypt, I have learnt that the whole concern -has passed into other and more powerful hands, who, by the employment -of considerable capital, have succeeded in facilitating the passage of -travellers across the Isthmus.</p> - -</div> -</div> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V.</h2> -</div> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>THE CAFE—ARAB MUSIC—ARTFUL EXPEDIENT—THE GHAWAZEE AND KOWAL—CHANGE -OF COSTUME—THE LADY FROM BEYROUT—ODD PROCESSION—SHOWERS OF ROSE -WATER—ARRIVAL OF THE “TAGUS”—THE OVERLAND MAIL—DEPARTURE OF THE -INDIA-BOUND PASSENGERS—THE MAHMOUDIEH—ATFEH.</p> -</div> - - -<p>Alexandria offers to the English stranger very little in the shape of -amusement; at six, when the offices and shops are closed, the square -becomes the public promenade, serving in fact as the “<em>change</em>,” -where business-matters and the news of the day are discussed. A gloomy -stillness, however, seems to reign everywhere, for the rumble of -wheels is seldom heard save when the Pasha returns from his evening -drive, or when the carriages belonging to the rival hotels are brought -out of the dusty <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">remises</i>, on the arrival of some steamer. -There is but one solitary <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Cafè</i> in the town, and that by no -means an excellent one. It possesses nevertheless a sort of casino -or subscription-room, where for twelve dollars a year, one may see -the principal papers of France and Italy, and get a chance rubber of -billiards with some passing traveller.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</span> This Cafè occupies one corner -of the English Okella, and at the opposite angle is a theatre, where -occasionally some Italian corps, paid for by subscription, are wont to -enliven the Alexandrian beau-monde, by the production of some badly -sustained opera, or a few of Goldoni’s comedies; the orchestra, on such -occasions, being composed of amateurs, with, maybe, a first fiddle of -renown from La Scala or the Fenice. In respect of music, the Arabs are -still in the dark ages, and the performance of Mehemet Ali’s native -band, is a grievous infliction upon the listener, as Furner and myself -can testify. A kind old Arab, who had invited us one day to dinner, -had prepared an agreeable surprise for us, by borrowing the five royal -musicians from the “Nile” steam-frigate, and for three mortal hours or -more, we were compelled to listen to and admire the same <em>air</em> -(!) from a combination of three drums, two whistles, and a nondescript -sort of guitar. It is probable that the whole night would have been -devoted to harmony, had not Furner hit upon the fortunate expedient -of gradually inebriating the whole five with repeated doses of strong -brandy and water, which proved a novel and most enticing beverage. The -drums are easily described, being neither more nor less than diminutive -grape jars with the bottom knocked out,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</span> and a bladder strained over -the mouth; these vary in size and consequently in tone, and are played -on by the fingers’ ends.</p> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="img003"> - <img src="images/003.jpg" class="w75" alt="THE PASHA’S NATIVE BAND" /> -</span></p> -<p class="center caption">THE PASHA’S NATIVE BAND.<br /></p> - - -<p>The <i>Ghawazée</i> or dancing-girls of Egypt, are now not often to -be met with, having been banished to a distant part of the country by -order of the Pasha. Their manœuvres are sometimes imitated, however, by -a set of men or boys, called “<i>Kowāl</i>,” who, disguised in suitable -apparel, are to be hired for the evening for a mere trifle, and these -fellows exhibited one night at our house before a few English. Their -manner of dancing is not easily to be described, inasmuch, as to a -stranger, their motions are sometimes wholly unintelligible. There is -also much that is unequivocally disgusting, and I never met with any -who wished to witness the exhibition a second time. The scene in the -present instance, lasted about an hour and a-half, with a perpetual -accompaniment of drums and whistles, and I doubt whether the men -themselves were much more weary than we by the time it was over, -though they lay without movement on the floor in a state of profuse -perspiration.</p> - -<p>By the time I had been a fortnight in Egypt, I found the close fitting -Frank clothes I had brought with me, almost insupportable, and I -consequently threw them aside in favour<span class="pagenum" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</span> of a linen jacket and wide -trousers, <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">à la Turke</i>. Although the change was very agreeable in -point of comfort, it was a long time before I learned to dress myself -properly, for the loose trouser is a most unmanageable garment, and the -silk scarf which encircles the waist is of so preposterous a length, -that it is useless to attempt winding yourself into it, without the aid -of a servant. My early endeavours to arrive at a complete toilet, were -much assisted by a young lady from Beyrout, who being on her way from -Cairo to Malta, was billeted upon us for a few days at the request of -<abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Raven. We found her, at first, extremely shy, and as she could by -no means be persuaded to raise her veil, it was fully two days before -we saw the light of any part of her countenance, except her eyes, which -glowed out from above her long black nose-case, like two coals. By -degrees this timidity wore off, and she was induced to take her tea -and pipe in our company. She spoke Arabic and Italian, with a very few -words of English, so that it was with considerable difficulty that we -contrived to hold any conversation with her. We gathered from her, -bit by bit, that she is running away from a French husband, who had -once thrown her out of a window, besides attempting her life in other -ways. We were consequently obliged to keep her as much out of sight as -possible, as she<span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</span> was in great trepidation lest he should suddenly make -his appearance and finish her.</p> - -<p>I had at this time an opportunity of witnessing a curious Arab -procession, occurring on the day of some yearly festival; though in -honour of whom or what, I could by no means ascertain. Our dragoman, -Hassan, secured me a good position in one of the narrow streets out -of the square, from whence I was able to view it to advantage. The -procession was led by a dozen men bareheaded, who, formed into a -circle, were making a rapid succession of low bows towards its centre, -chanting at the same time a mournful air; next came a band of native -musicians, followed by a numerous body of men bearing long flags, -similar to those used in the pilgrimage to Mecca; those who came next -upon the scene were a score or more of half-naked fellows, all foaming -and perspiring with excessive exertion, whose sole object seemed to be -the endeavour to pull each other to the ground, by means of the little -top-knot of hair on the crown of the head; a miscellaneous and unruly -crowd of men and boys brought up the rear, whose incessant thumping -of little copper drums, mixing with the shouting and doleful chant -of those who had preceded them, produced as discordant a variety of -noises as I ever remember to have heard. The<span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</span> women took no part in -the procession, saving as lookers on, testifying their appreciation -and enjoyment of the extraordinary display, by a loud gobbling noise -like a chorus of frightened turkey cocks—a noise I believe which none -but an Arab woman <em>can</em> produce;—as the exhibitors moved along, -they as well as the bystanders were plentifully besprinkled with water -of roses and lavender, which we were given to understand was a part of -the performance. So plentiful indeed did Furner and I find this novel -species of baptism, that, being unprovided with umbrellas, we were glad -to beat a precipitate retreat.</p> - -<p>On the evening of July the 18th, the mail steamer “Tagus,” arrived -from Southampton, and from this day, I may date the commencement of -my official duties. We were enjoying our after-dinner pipe in the -verandah, when Hassan announced her near approach, so, making all speed -to the shore, Furner and I rowed off to meet her. On gaining the deck, -we found about two dozen passengers for the Overland, with a prodigious -quantity of baggage piled up in one large heap, from which each was -endeavouring to release his own particular property. The mail consisted -of a number of square tin-boxes, which, when hauled on deck, it was my -duty to see shifted into a barge alongside, destined to convey<span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</span> them -to the mouth of the Mahmoudieh Canal, observing at the same time, that -each individual case was duly ticked off upon the bill of lading. It is -said there is a charm in every description of novelty, but I have yet -to learn where to find that belonging to the landing of a large Indian -mail on a dark and gusty night by the dim light of a ship’s lanthorn. -The oaths of the sailors as they worked the tackle, mingling with the -blowing off of the steam, the shouts of the Arabs, and the bumping -together of boats alongside, formed a confusion of noises perfectly -bewildering, whilst it was with some difficulty that I could maintain -a firm hold at the top of the ladder, from whence I was obliged to -watch the packages in their descent, until a welcome cry of “All out,” -announced a temporary reprieve. Whilst the mail barge was making its -slow way round to the Mahmoudieh, I had time to reach the shore, and -join the passengers at Rey’s Hotel, as they were starting for Moharrem -Bey, which is the point of departure of the passage-boats. The pushing -and scrambling for donkeys, on such occasions, is sometimes highly -amusing, and it is long ere the cavalcade is in motion. When there is -no moon, the scene is lighted up by crackling pots of burning charcoal, -raised aloft on poles, shedding a lurid light. The road to the Canal -involves the passing of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</span> two or three gates, strongly fortified, having -lofty tunnel-like arches, and paved with round stones. The pattering of -hoofs as the motley train rushes through, awakens the lazy sentinel, -who presents arms mechanically to those of the flaring pots, and, as -the sound again dies away in the deep sandy road, once more relapses -into slumber.</p> - -<p>Half a mile’s ride brought us to the avenue of trees upon the banks of -the Canal, where the covered passenger-boats were waiting to receive -us, that containing the mails and luggage, having already gone on -a-head. The choice of seats, for berths there were none, was of course -given to the ladies, the rest accommodating themselves where best -they might. Four strong horses, mounted by as many Arab riders, were -attached to the one long iron boat, which contained us all, and the -word having been given to cast loose, we bid a hasty adieu to our -friends on shore, and by a little after midnight, found ourselves -in motion. Our crew consisted of a fat Maltese pilot, two or three -Arabs, and a cook, named Antonio, and it was gratifying to remark, -that the latter had not forgotten several well-stored <i>cafasses</i>, -or provision-baskets, with apparatus for making tea and coffee, and a -large brazier of ignited charcoal for heating his kettles.</p> - -<p>The dew was falling like rain, soaking every thing that<span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</span> was exposed to -it, but this did not deter some of our party from throwing themselves -at full length upon the roof, where, snugly shrouded in their cloaks, -they ran a much better chance of getting a little rest, than when -squeezed into a sitting posture below. Having given a look round to see -that all was as it should be, I retired into my little cabin in the -bows, where, after a cold chicken and a bottle of Bass’s ale, I was -soon deep in my first packet of letters from England. Sleep however, -overcame me before I had finished, and I was dreaming most agreeably -of far-off persons and scenes, when a sudden shock and instantaneous -stoppage of the boat, upset my candle and empty beer-bottle, and caused -a dire commotion among the cups and spode-ware in Antonio’s pantry. -I ran on deck immediately, and found, as soon as I could collect my -scattered senses, that our precious Maltese captain had run us into -the bank, having quietly followed the example of those around him, by -dropping to sleep at his tiller. Fortunately for the horses, the rope -had parted with the sudden check, or they would have been pulled into -the Canal, which I afterwards found was not an uncommon occurrence. -After a little delay, we were soon making way again at an average pace -of seven or eight miles an hour, and met with no farther mishap before -day-break. We were<span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</span> amused in the morning by the uncouth gambols of the -buffaloes, who were taking their early bath in the shallow water at the -sides of the Canal. Some of them seemed so accustomed to the passing of -our rope, which often gives them an unpleasant rap over the horns, and -sometimes completely upsets them, that they would duck under water at -the approach of the horses, and rise again as soon as we had shot past. -At mid-day we reached Atféh, a considerable village on the Nile, at the -southern extremity of the Mahmoudieh Canal.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI.</h2> -</div> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>THE NILE STEAM-BOAT—A DECK DINNER—BOULAC—THE ESBEKIER—THE “GRAND -EASTERN HOTEL”—MR. RAVEN’S OFFICE—THE TRANSIT-BUSINESS—LOADING OF -THE CAMELS—DEPARTURE OF THE CARAVAN—THE DESERT—THE STATIONS—WATER.</p> -</div> - - -<p>The water in the Mahmoudieh Canal being at this season of the year -very low, and the steep muddy banks extremely slippery, it was no easy -matter to disembark all the heavy luggage belonging to our passengers. -The Arabs, however, are excellent porters, and will carry enormous -loads; so much so, that I was surprised at the apparent facility with -which the shifting of so great a quantity of material was accomplished. -One of <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Waghorn’s agents, who is located at Atféh, sends off a lot -of camels to the landing place, which transport the heavier baggage -to the river side, where it is immediately stored on board the Nile -steamer. This agent, who is an intelligent Italian, must lead a weary -life in Atféh, for of all places it has been my lot to visit, I never -saw one so truly forbidding. It is a town of considerable trade, and -the quays are covered with timber and bales of merchandize. Pigs by -the thousand run about in all directions, whilst the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</span> path from the -canal-boat to the steamer is through a perfect Slough of Despond. -With the exception of the Pasha’s corn-store, there is but one -decent-looking building in the place: this is, of course, the hotel, -where, on extraordinary occasions they can make up three or four -beds, though woe befall the unhappy wight who trusts himself to the -tender mercies of its host. On the ground-floor is a sort of wine and -spirit-store, where the traveller can be accommodated with all the -various growths of the Levant, and this is perhaps the only redeeming -quality in the character of the “Grand Hotel de France.”</p> - -<p>In the course of two hours, we had everything removed on board a little -steamer, which lay fizzing at the quay side, capable of carrying, at a -pinch, fifty passengers with their effects. On this occasion, we did -not muster much more than half that number, and therefore found ample -accommodation. As for myself, I was so tired with my unusual exertions -of the last few hours, that I had no sooner reached the deck of the -“Cairo,” than I spread out my mat, and was soon in a sound sleep, from -which I was ere long aroused by a great clatter of knives and plates -at the hour of dinner. A long table on the after-part of the deck, was -lined on either side with my voracious countrymen, and although Antonio -tried hard to obtain me a corner seat, his efforts were unavailing,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</span> -and instead of being greeted, as I had fondly anticipated, with an -invitation to do as the rest, a long-whiskered officer with his mouth -full of chicken, ordered me to change his plate, very naturally -mistaking me for one of the Arab attendants. I obeyed the order at -once, but fearing that if I staid at the table, I might be subjected -to a renewal of these unceremonious commands, and thus establish a bad -precedent, I beat a retreat towards the caboose, and made friends with -the head engineer, who was in the act of sitting down to a steaming -mess of savoury stew, laid out upon the head of a cask, with a garnish -of sparkling pale ale. On the paddle-box above us, sat the old Reis -or pilot, gazing at us with extreme complacency, whilst waiting for -his turn at the dish. This individual is the most important in the -ship, as, without his knowledge of the river, we should be continually -running aground on one or other of the numerous shoals, which at “low -Nile” render the navigation somewhat intricate and dangerous. There he -sits by day and by night, always at his post, and ever wakeful, giving -an occasional sign to the Arab at the helm.<a id="FNanchor_3" href="#Footnote_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</span></p> - -<p>We had now progressed a long way up the river, and as yet ungratified -by anything like a prospect, the high muddy banks shutting out from us -all view of the adjacent country. Occasionally we passed within hail of -a Fellah town, and could hear the joyous shouts of the little children, -as they proclaimed the approach of the “<i>Meerkib-al-nar</i>,” or -Fireship, as their own language expresses it. As night came on, our -little deck was gradually deserted, very few of the passengers choosing -to encounter a wetting from the dew which was now descending almost as -heavily as rain. I gave one look below to see if there was a chance -of making my bed on or under some table or other, but every available -place was occupied, and I was forced to throw myself upon the deck, -rolled up in a thick Bernous cloak, which defended me from both dew -and mosquitoes, and had it not been for one of the boatmen, who very -unceremoniously walked on my leg, I should have slept undisturbed until -daybreak.</p> - -<p>About ten o’clock on the day following, we were just able to see the -Pyramids of Ghizeh, pointing faintly upwards in the distance, and at -noon reached Boulac,<a id="FNanchor_4" href="#Footnote_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> the port of Cairo,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</span> where we disembarked, and -rode a mile-and-a-half into the city, some on donkeys, and others in -a sort of donkey chair. Consigning the mail boxes to the care of an -agent, who was in waiting to receive them, I cantered on into Cairo, -under the guidance of the lad, who ran behind me; and passing through -the outer gate of the city, found myself on the Esbikier, or “great -square,” a vast area of dry, cracked mud, surrounded by deep canals, -devoid of water, and bordered by a double row of dusty-looking trees.</p> - -<p>Leaving the Esbikier, we entered a very narrow street, in the which, -about half way down, an overhanging board directs the traveller to -the “Grand Eastern Hotel,” and turning down a still narrower alley, -rendered almost dark by the extreme contiguity of the upper parts -of the houses, we passed under an arched gateway, and entered the -court-yard. A grim-looking Maltese waiter ushered me into the presence -of <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Raven, who was busy writing in his office, a little sort of -sanctum on the first-floor, which I shall describe at length hereafter. -This gentleman welcomed me very kindly, inquiring how many passengers I -had, and if they had all found conveyances to the city, &c., but before -he would permit me to answer him, he pointed to a <i>goolah</i> of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</span> -water and brandy bottle which stood by, and would hear nothing until I -had taken a draught.</p> - -<p>I then gave him a detailed account of our journey so far, and handed -him a parcel of letters and a passenger list, which I had brought with -me from Alexandria. I had made up my mind to something like a day’s -rest in Cairo, and was therefore somewhat surprised, though by no means -disappointed, when told that I had better accompany the caravan to -Suez, and make preparation for an immediate departure—“And,” added -Raven, “if you want anything to eat, find your way to the kitchen, and -lay hands on anything you most fancy, for if you wait till dinner-time -and sit down with the rest, ten to one but you are called away before -you can swallow a mouthful!” This advice was no sooner given than -acted upon; so, guided by my nose, I passed through sundry passages -and offices, and came upon a whole bevy of greasy Arab cooks, busy in -dishing-up all sorts of good things, and too much occupied to take any -notice of my invasion of their territory. Giving a hasty glance around, -I made choice of a tempting looking chicken, just fresh from the spit, -with which I made off, without apology, although I believe very greatly -to the astonishment of the cooks, who made <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">des grands yeux</i> at -my impudence.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</span> An agreeable looking English girl, belonging to the -establishment, whom I encountered in my retreat, introduced me to a -plate and roll of bread, and sitting down I made a capital dinner.</p> - -<p>On my return to <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Raven’s office, I found him busy with a list of -the passengers, arranging their various places in the carriages which -were to convey us to Suez. On a divan, under the window, was seated a -portly looking gentleman,<a id="FNanchor_5" href="#Footnote_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> in a Turkish dress, very intently conning -over the last batch of Galignani, and smoking a Manilla, whilst one -or two of the passengers who had escaped from the dinner-table, were -changing English money into nine-piastre pieces, and asking innumerable -questions. Motioning me to a seat at a desk alongside him, and at -the same time introducing me to the gentleman upon the sofa, Raven -supplied me with a cheroot and a bottle of pale ale, and handed me a -rough list of the transit accounts to be put into proper form, before -collecting the monies. “When,” said he, “you have receipted all these, -and returned them to me, you may get away as soon as you like.” I found -each little bill to consist of a printed form; so much for transit from -Cairo to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</span> Suez, so much for camel-hire for baggage, and a third item -for hotel expenses, the whole very simple and easily comprehended. -The taking of the money was not so readily accomplished, as I had -some little difficulty in making people understand how the charge for -luggage was regulated. The hire of a camel to cross the desert is about -twelve shillings, and his load seldom or never more than two packages; -one on each side. A lady, therefore, with a heavy portmanteau and two -large paper bandboxes, might be called upon to pay a camel and a half, -whilst her husband, with two enormous and weighty bullock trunks, -would probably pay but for one camel. A hat-box and writing-desk have -been assessed at half a camel, for the Bedouins have but little idea -of properly balancing a load; and I have frequently seen a heavy -iron-bound trunk, counterpoised by a huge, but light, paper bonnet-box, -or a colossal carpet-bag and a bird-cage, in ludicrous contraposition.</p> - -<p>The loading takes place in a spacious court-yard at the back of the -hotel, the camels kneeling to receive their burdens, which are secured -in rude net-work bags, and the noise and confusion at such times is -almost distracting. The animals are very touchy, and manifest their -displeasure by a child-like groan, which it is almost distressing to -hear. The<span class="pagenum" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</span> motion of their heads too requires constant watching, as -they turn round to bite and snap at the slightest provocation, and seem -to have a peculiar dislike to the Frank dress, which attracts them more -than the blue smocks of the Bedouin. The distribution of the loads is -superintended by different servants of the company from every quarter -of the globe; and as each tries to make himself heard amid the general -din, there is a perfect Babel of tongues.</p> - -<p>With all this, just under the open window of the little room in which -we were sitting, I found my labour in the way of accounts to progress -but slowly; and it was no little relief to me, when the hubbub was -exchanged for a state of comparative quiet, produced by the departure -of the camels with the baggage, which generally precedes the rest of -the caravan.</p> - -<p>By five in the afternoon, everything was reported in readiness for a -start, but as I had occasion to wait for some papers entrusted to me by -Raven, I was almost the last who reached the place of departure. In a -wide part of an adjacent street, I found five or six covered carts with -two wheels, and four stout horses attached to each; these are capable -of holding four persons comfortably, and as they are well balanced, -and run on enormously large wheels, their<span class="pagenum" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</span> motion is both easy and -agreeable. Each passenger has his particular seat assigned him before -starting, so that there is no confusion or scrambling for places, care -being also taken not to separate the members of one family more than -can be avoided; children and ladies are generally confided to the -care of the most experienced English drivers, while the gentlemen are -handed over to the tender mercies of some Maltese, or native knight of -the whip, if the caravan be so large as to put all the carriages in -requisition.</p> - -<p>On looking over the list, I found myself booked with two missionaries -and a reverend divine; a fact which manifested a kindly interest in -my welfare on the part of <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Raven, who pushed in after me a couple -of black bottles, and gave the order to go forward. Whisking round -the Esbikier, we passed the outer gate and suburbs, and then after -a jolting drive of near a mile through narrow lanes, bordered by -hedge-rows of prickly pear and luxuriant aloes, emerged on to the -smooth sand of the desert; half a mile on, are two curious looking -erections of brick, called the Tombs of the Sheiks, and these once -out of sight, there is nought to greet the eye but a vast expanse of -sand, enclosed at the horizon on either side within a low range of -sand hills, which extend almost without interruption the entire way to -Suez. The<span class="pagenum" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</span> route of the caravan is more direct than that taken by the -Israelites formerly, (which is more to the southward, almost without -wells, and hilly,) and with one exception, where it crosses a ridge of -rock, runs due East and West in a straight line.</p> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="img004"> - <img src="images/004.jpg" class="w50" alt="Horse-drawn wagon" /> -</span></p> - -<p>For the convenience of passengers to and from India, places of refuge -or Stations, have been erected at uniform distances, where man and -beast may find refreshment, and shelter from the scorching sun. Those -travelling through the agency of Messrs. Waghorn,<a id="FNanchor_6" href="#Footnote_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> are entitled to -avail themselves to any extent of the accommodation afforded, saving -as to wines, &c., which are charged extra; but should a party making -the journey, independent altogether of such agency, neglect to provide -himself with a ticket of admission to these Stations, he will find -himself condemned to abstinence from food and water for the entire -eighty-four miles, unless he carry with him a sufficient supply. Wells -there<span class="pagenum" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</span> are none, saving one of dirty brackish water near Suez, and -this is more often dry than not. At the Stations, however, there is -always an abundant supply of good water, kept cool under ground in -iron tanks, and brought from the Nile in skins at a great expense; and -should this by any untoward chance be wanting, the traveller may slake -his thirst with the best of ale or beer at a shilling the bottle. If -too fastidious to descend to vulgar malt, he will find a modest looking -“<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">carte des vins</i>” in the dining-rooms of three out of seven of -the Stations, from which he may make his selection, without risk of -being compelled to complain either of quality or price.</p> - -<p>I am aware that there are many who have found fault with the apparently -high charge made for the transit between Cairo and Suez; but these -may not have sufficiently considered the great trouble and expense -necessarily incurred in providing due accommodation. They have scarcely -any idea of the number of skins of water required to fill one tank, -nor, perhaps, do they reflect, while filling out or polishing their -own skins, and using as much of the precious fluid as they can desire, -that the poor camel or donkey which brought it forty weary miles -from the Nile, returns all the way back again, without having wetted -its lips more than once, if even so much as that. Then again, should -a goat-skin<span class="pagenum" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</span> spring a leak, or burst while on the road, which not -unfrequently happens, what is to recompense the poor Bedouin, who has -tramped the whole way on foot, and whose donkey, on which he solely -relies for a livelihood, is the bearer of but one skin of water at a -time.<a id="FNanchor_7" href="#Footnote_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a></p> - - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_3" href="#FNanchor_3" class="label">[3]</a> Our little vessel when originally sent out to Egypt by -the Oriental Company, was fitted with a rudder-wheel, but as the -native boatmen could never be induced to work it, a long tiller was -substituted in its stead.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_4" href="#FNanchor_4" class="label">[4]</a> The distance from Atféh to Boulac, by the Nile, is about -120 English miles.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_5" href="#FNanchor_5" class="label">[5]</a> <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> A., an eminent physician, long resident in Cairo, well -known by most who have visited that city.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_6" href="#FNanchor_6" class="label">[6]</a> 1842-3.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_7" href="#FNanchor_7" class="label">[7]</a> A young officer, on his way <em>out</em> to India, having -upon one occasion, ordered Champagne, really was, or appeared to be, -extremely annoyed that it was sent up <em>un</em>-iced! I never found any -one <em>returning</em>, make any unreasonable objections of this kind.</p> - -</div> -</div> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII.</h2> -</div> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>DESERT FARE—THE BAWAUB—NO. 4 STATION—A SIESTA—THE SOLITARY -TREE—PESTILENTIAL BREEZES—A DRY WELL—SUEZ—WAGHORN’S HOTEL—THE -“BERENICE”—RETURN TO CAIRO—A THIRSTY DRIVER—COOL RECEPTION AT A -WARM BATH—THE PENDANT RAG.</p> -</div> - - -<p>But to return to our caravan, which we left on the margin of the -desert. Our rate of travelling was about five miles in the hour, for -the track, which in some places, lay over a smooth and tolerably hard -gravel, was at others exchanged for a loose sand, in which our wheels -became buried to the depth of a foot or more, causing a deal of labour -to our horses. At such times, our Seis, or running-footman, one of whom -accompanies each carriage, would apply his shoulder to the wheel and -help us over the soft spot, whilst on occasions we found it necessary -altogether to alight, and unite our efforts. We changed horses at -<abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1 Station, which is nine miles from Cairo, and a mere stable, -reaching <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2, at about ten o’clock. This is a building containing -a large saloon, with divans and a long table, three sleeping rooms, -kitchen, &c., and here we found a good supper laid out,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</span> consisting of -smoking dishes of Irish stew, cold turkeys and fowls, and eggs <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">à -discretion</i>. During the meal, I was beckoned out of the room by -the head driver, <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Hill,<a id="FNanchor_8" href="#Footnote_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a> to debate as to the length of time we -should allow for resting. As there was a full change of horses for each -carriage, I considered it would be as well to make the most of the cool -night air, and secure a long halt the next day at the centre Station, -and our passengers concurring in this idea, we were soon again <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">en -route</i>.</p> - -<p><abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 3 Station is a repetition of <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1, being only a stable, tenanted -by one old melancholy Arab, who, on our arrival, was found squatted -over his little fire of camel’s dung, upon which he was baking his -evening cake of Indian corn. This, with his pipe, and a drink of water, -forms his only food. In the morning, in his scriptural little mill of -two flat stones, he grinds sufficient flour to last him through the -day, tasting nought else until his return to the city, which takes -place when the transit season is over. Such, at least is the old -fellow’s own account of himself; but as very few who cross the desert, -pass by a Station without a call, it is more than probable, that he -picks up something, more palatable than maise-bread, in return for the -sundry half-pints of water and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</span> handsful of corn, which he distributes, -sub-rosâ, among his Bedouin friends.</p> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="img005"> - <img src="images/005.jpg" class="w75" alt="A HALT IN THE DESERT" /> -</span></p> -<p class="center caption">A HALT IN THE DESERT.<br /></p> - -<p>Early on the following morning, we came in sight of <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 4, the centre -Station, forty-one miles from Cairo, which, with the one solitary tree -that stands near it, is visible nearly six miles before it is made. -This is a resting-place of much more pretensions than the others, -having an upper-story, with a ricketty flight of stone-steps, and a -tolerably spacious court-yard below, where, at the time of our arrival, -a queer-looking sheep, and some lean shrivelled fowls were sniffing -and pecking about, and scraping up their last earthly meal, whilst a -turkey-cock, perched on an empty <i>cafass</i> or hamper, was dismally -sounding his death-rattle. The live stock, and eatables of all sorts -are brought from Cairo in sufficient quantity to supply the larders of -all the Stations for several weeks, but occasionally, when the number -of passengers to and fro is very large, a sort of famine takes place, -and we have been compelled to subsist for a time upon dates and other -dried fruits, of which there is always a good store; the change of diet -proving rather agreeable than otherwise. Chickens, very lean and tough, -and roasted to dryness, are a standing dish in Egypt, and these with -the larger sorts of fowl, and plenty of curries and Irish-stew, form -the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</span> principal fare of the desert.<a id="FNanchor_9" href="#Footnote_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a> A second course generally makes -its appearance at dinner in the shape of huge rice-puddings, or a sort -of sweetmeat called <i>mish-mish</i>, a favourite dish of the Arabs.</p> - -<p>On arriving at <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 4, we found that the cool night air had given us -considerable appetite, and our ablutions performed, there was a general -rush to the long table in the common room, where sundry tea-pots -and coffee-biggins were soon in rapid circulation, and boiled eggs -disappeared by the score; bread there was none, as that becomes too -much dried up by the heat when carried across the desert, but hard -biscuits we found to be an excellent substitute, and the Egyptian -butter is delicious. Breakfast over, I spread my carpet on the top of -a long wooden sideboard, and soon fell fast asleep—my example being -followed by the others who disposed themselves to rest, some in the -bed-rooms, and others on the divans which extend round three sides -of the room. In the middle of the day the heat was excessive—the -thermometer standing at 100° of Fahrenheit—and the slight breath -of air which was stirring outside was so very far preferable to the -confined heat of the rooms,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</span> that I left my hard couch for a little -patch of shade under one of the carts, where I was soon joined by one -of my fellow-travellers, with whom I whiled away the hours in chat, -until summoned by Ibraham the cook to another trial of his culinary art.</p> - -<p>At the approach of evening, the horses were again attached to their -respective carts or vans, and after some little jibbing on the part -of the poor animals, who were evidently averse to moving, we were -again upon the desert. The road near the centre Station is hard and -gravelly, and affords most easy travelling for the first mile or -two. We passed within a stone’s throw of the solitary tree before -alluded to, with its sun-burnt branches all festooned with rags; the -followers of the prophet who pass this object on their pilgrimages to -Mecca, hang thereon an old shoe or some portion of a garment by way of -peace-offering. If the wind is stirring, it is quite as well to take -the weather-side of this hanging mass of old clothes, for as there are -few devotees who care to part with anything really serviceable, the -breezes which come athwart the tree are by no means of the most balmy.</p> - -<p>About a quarter of a mile to the southward of this pestilential -landmark, is a pit in the sand, of enormous<span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</span> dimensions, excavated by -the French in the vain hope of obtaining water. Two or three of us -went so far just to gratify our curiosity, but were obliged to use -extreme caution in approaching the edge of the pit. Its diameter is so -great that the well, although one hundred and fifty feet deep, appears -rather shallow than otherwise, and the section of the ground exhibits -a succession of layers of fine sand and gravel, but without the least -appearance of water. Two or three dead animals, for which the well had -served as a pitfall, lay at the bottom.</p> - -<p>The road to <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 5 Station is scarcely to be distinguished, as the -ground is so hard as to take no impress of wheels, and there would be -great difficulty in making it out at all, were it not for the dead and -dying camels and blanched skeletons, which strew the path and serve as -finger-posts. Should a camel drop through exhaustion, and there be no -means at hand of relieving it, the Bedouin removes its load, which is -distributed among the others, and the poor beast is left to die, for to -shorten its miseries by a <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">coup de grace</i>, would be at variance -with the law of Mahomet. This is the more to be regretted as these -animals are peculiarly tenacious of life, and when left in this manner, -are sure to fall a prey to the jackal and vulture, who feast<span class="pagenum" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</span> upon the -body before life is extinct. A sly bullet from my carbine has often -terminated the agonies of such as I have found thus abandoned in my -frequent journeys, when I could use it without fear of detection, for -the Arabs will not lightly pass over an infringement of their law in -this particular; and as they have, if so inclined, the power of causing -us much trouble, I have invariably sought to be on the best terms with -them.</p> - -<p>Passing the next Station, a mere stable, and still keeping between the -two lines of hills, which increase in height as you approach Suez, we -came suddenly upon <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 6, where, as it was now ten o’clock, we had to -arouse the inmates. This Station is the counterpart of <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2, and was -tenanted by an agreeable and pretty Englishwoman, who, having in haste, -united herself to an Arab, was now in the solitude of the desert, -repenting at her leisure. Under her good care we remained several -hours, doing ample justice to a plentiful supper, and refreshing -ourselves with a comfortable nap. It was therefore broad daylight -when we reached the well of brackish water, and came in sight of the -walls of Suez, a desolate and miserable town, where there is no water, -save that of the Red Sea, and such as is afforded by a casual shower, -and not the most remote appearance of vegetation in any<span class="pagenum" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</span> shape. The -inhabitants, who appear to live exclusively upon fish, and dried fruits -from the interior, consist principally of Jewish merchants and small -Arab traders, for there is considerable traffic between Suez and the -shores of the Red Sea, especially with Aden and Missouah, which latter, -is the chief port of Abyssinia. The Indian steamers come up to within -three or four miles of the town, and obtain a tolerably safe anchorage -outside a perilous bar, which entirely prevents any nearer approach -for vessels drawing more than five feet of water. Communication is -effected, and merchandize shipped, by means of small lateen-rigged -boats, which, if the wind be contrary, are also managed by oars; but in -a high sea, I have sometimes been as long as six hours in getting out -to the steamer.</p> - -<p>Waghorn’s hotel is a quaint-looking low building close to the water’s -edge, containing accommodation for thirty or forty people, and is -managed by a clean bustling Englishwoman and her nephew. Two hundred -yards or so nearer the gate, stands the old hotel, used only on -extraordinary occasions, or when the steamer, not true to her time, -causes a meeting at Suez between the India-bound passengers and those -returning homewards. The little square before the door was filled as -we drove up, with the baggage camels,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</span> which having disposed of their -burdens in various heaps upon the ground, were now quietly chewing -the cud, and resting themselves after their weary march, while their -drivers were lolling near, either shrouded in their bernous cloaks -and fast asleep, or lazily getting their morning meal. Portmanteaus, -bullock-trunks, sword-cases, and three-cornered hat-boxes, with all -the innumerable etceteras in the way of baggage, comprising an Indian -outfit, lay scattered about in wild confusion, and it required no -little skill on the part of our drivers to manage a four-in-hand -through such a sea of valuables. Fortunately for myself, the boxes -containing the mails lay all in one heap close to the door of the -hotel, so that my task of counting and checking them was more easily -accomplished than I had anticipated. Consigning them, therefore, -into the hands of <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Manson, the agent at Suez, and obtaining from -him a suitable receipt, I was left to discuss an excellent “dejeuner -a-la-fourchette,” provided for me by the good-natured landlady, of whom -I had contrived to get the blind side, by the opportune present of a -few English needles which I happened to have in my valise.</p> - -<p>I learned, on inquiry of the agent, that the “Berenice” Bombay -steamer, which had the day before landed two<span class="pagenum" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</span> or three homeward-bound -passengers, and was now lying smoking at her anchorage, was to start at -five in the afternoon; and as the shipment of the mails and luggage is -a work of time and labour, the sooner they were got off the better. I -found this by no means an unpleasant part of my duty, for as there was -a delightful breeze blowing, and the weather of the finest, the sail -down the arm of the gulf into the open water, was extremely pleasant.</p> - -<p>By six o’clock every one was on board, and the “Berenice” under weigh; -and at midnight, I had turned my back upon Suez, with the now nearly -empty carriages, for there were only three passengers, and as it so -happened that neither of these contemplated reaching Alexandria in time -for the English steamer, there was no occasion for any extraordinary -dispatch. We therefore jogged along quietly enough, and for the first -few stages, I found an amusing companion in my driver, a countryman of -my own, who, having been long resident in Egypt, was able to afford -me a good deal of information. He was, however, no follower of Father -Mathew, and falling into the popular error that brandy is the best and -safest restorative in a hot climate, he indulged in such repeated pulls -at the black bottle, that on leaving <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 4 Station, he was compelled -to resign the reins to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</span> the attendant <i>Seis</i>, and sleep away the -effect of his potations at the bottom of the cart.</p> - -<p>Resting during the hottest part of the day, we reached Cairo at the -close of the second afternoon, where having consigned my travelling -companions to the attentions of the head waiter, I paid my respects -to <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Raven, whom I found entertaining a large party of his English -friends, resident in Egypt. Pleading my travel-worn and dusty -condition, for he was leading me in to present me to the ladies, as -a late arrival from England, I begged him to direct me to some good -bath, where I could indulge in the luxuries of soap and hot water. -“There was a good one,” he said, “at the end of the first Bazaar,” -whither accordingly I bent my steps, and passing under a narrow stone -gateway, from whence thin clouds of steam were issuing into upper air, -I was making my way through a damp passage, when I suddenly found -myself arrested by the gripe of a fierce-looking Abyssinian slave, -who luckily perceiving that I was a stranger, drew me back again into -the street with much gesticulation, and pointing to a dirty rag which -hung suspended over the door-way, like a paviour’s wisp, gave me a -shove, which sent me reeling into the Bazaar, considerably surprised -at the curious mode of reception practised<span class="pagenum" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</span> at a public Hammam. I had -scarcely recovered my scattered senses, when a Frank tailor, who had -seen the transaction, and evidently pitied my dilemma, emerged from his -little shop, and explained to me that the pendant rag was exhibited as -a sign, to show that the bath was at such times in the occupation of -the ladies, and that in fact the hareem of some great man had but a -short time before engaged the establishment. My forcible ejection was, -therefore, no longer a matter of surprise, the only wonder being, that -I had escaped so cheaply from the hands of the dusky Cerberus on guard.</p> - -<p>My new friend, the tailor, now directed me to another bath at a little -distance off, where I had no difficulty in effecting an entrance, as -this time, and indeed always afterwards, I took especial care to look -out for the rag! Although the Turkish bath has been so often described, -as to have rendered its peculiarities familiar, I shall scarcely -feel satisfied to give a casual glance only at this most gratifying -of luxuries, and shall, therefore, simply relate my own experience, -without venturing to hope that I may furnish anything very new upon the -subject.</p> - - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_8" href="#FNanchor_8" class="label">[8]</a> A brother of the late <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Hill, before alluded to.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_9" href="#FNanchor_9" class="label">[9]</a> I once met with a “loin of camel,” at <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 4 Station, a -<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">pièce de resistance</i>, I am not ambitious of tasting a second -time.</p> - -</div> -</div> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII.</h2> -</div> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>AN EGYPTIAN HAMMAM—INHUMAN TORTURES—THE BARBER—THE -CHIROPODIST—DELIGHTFUL RESPITE—PALE ALE AND MANILLAS—RAVEN’S -COLLECTION—DR. A.—ANTIQUITIES—MR. BELL—HIS AFRICAN ADVENTURES—THE -WHITE NILE EXPEDITION.</p> -</div> - - -<p>Entering a large vaulted chamber of stone, and delivering up my watch -and valuables to a person appointed to receive them, (a precautionary -measure against loss,) I was led by an obsequious and smiling Arab to -one of the numerous little rooms which opened out of it, and shewn to -a queer-looking bed upon the floor, which I forthwith appropriated, -and casting my clothes thereon, they were rolled up in a bundle by -my attendant, and deposited at the head. On parting with my last -garment, I was enveloped in a gaudy carpet, which came up under my -arms, and being drawn together tight at the back, was secured by a -pin. A flowing-white turban, of the finest muslin, was now bound round -my head, and thus accoutred, my feet were thrust into the thongs of a -pair of wooden sandals, and I was led across the outer apartment into -one of much larger dimensions,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</span> where, round a fountain of hot water -which squirted up in the centre, were seated some dozen or more of -naked Arabs, sousing and splashing each other like a lot of dolphins. -The atmosphere of this chamber was of such a temperature, as to make me -feel rather uneasy on first entering it, but this feeling soon passed -off, and my guide, seeing that I was all right again, then conducted -me into a little hole of a place, quite filled with dense steam, where -I literally gasped for breath. Here I was committed to the tender -mercies of a black bearded fellow, all reeking with perspiration, who, -forcing me down on a narrow stone slab, where I lay gasping on my -back, proceeded to curry me over with a hard sort of fibrous brush, -like the outer husk of a cocoa-nut. The skin peeled off me in little -rolls, to which my operator exultingly pointed, exclaiming, “<i>taib, -taib!</i>”<a id="FNanchor_10" href="#Footnote_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a> at each stroke of his teazle, until I nearly roared with -pain, though I felt at the same time a most pleasing and indefinable -sensation creeping through me, accompanied by a delicious healthful -glow over the whole of my body. Having pretty well tired himself, and -reduced the whole superficies of my skin to a flaming red colour, he -next made a fine bowl of suds with tow and yellow soap, and lathered -over<span class="pagenum" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</span> my whole person, filling my eyes and ears also, and completely -preventing any attempt at expostulation, by the prospect of a plentiful -gulp of the unsavoury compound, if I dared to open my mouth. Having -concluded this portion of the ceremony, my Arab seized me by the -nape of the neck, and settled me into a sitting posture; then from a -fountain which gushed from the wall, he dipped up in a brass basin -about half-a-gallon of scalding water, which he deliberately poured -over my head. This I found to be too much of a good thing, and was -taxing me beyond my powers of endurance, so seizing the brass pan, -I refused to submit to any more of the scalding baptism, unless he -could lower the temperature of the fountain. This was easily managed, -as there was both a cold and a hot-water tap, and I could qualify the -water to my liking.</p> - -<p>At this stage of the bath, a man, whose insignia bespoke him a barber, -thrust his head in at the door-way, and inquired if I wanted shaving, -but being answered in the negative, made way for a second individual, -who proved to be the chiropodist in ordinary to the establishment. He, -in like manner, took his departure, evidently astonished at finding -nothing to operate upon.</p> - -<p>My ablutions were now finished, and my first attendant,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</span> bringing -dry cloths and a clean turban, re-conducted me to the couch, where, -covering me over with a light blanket, he left me to the enjoyment of -a pipe of fragrant <i>gibelee</i> and a cup of coffee, administered by -another of the numerous servitors. This is probably the most agreeable -part of the whole proceeding, for the feelings which take possession, -both of mind and body, are indescribably pleasurable. One seems to be -inoculated with the genuine elixir of life, and the limbs feel restored -to the elasticity of early youth, whilst the mind appears for the -moment to be divested of all care and solicitude.</p> - -<p>In the present instance, however, this enviable state of things was -not suffered to be of long duration, for I was speedily recalled to -a full sense of my position, by the pertinacious corn-cutter, who, -under cover of my closed eye-lids, was scraping away at my heels with -a piece of pumice-stone, and tickling me back into consciousness. -Having previously declined his services, I thought it no harm to repeat -my disinclination for them, by a well-directed kick, which sent him -rolling. But my hopes of enjoying the pipe and coffee were destined -to be signally defeated, for no sooner had I got rid of my Egyptian -Eisenberg, than another tormentor made his appearance. As I lay, I was -compelled<span class="pagenum" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</span> to submit to the cracking of all my joints; my head was -forced back farther than I ever fancied it <em>would</em> go, and then -twisted both ways round, and again downwards: every finger and toe was -pulled at and cracked, and, finally, the breath was nearly squeezed out -of my body, by a convulsive jerk on the part of my executioner, who had -encircled me with his two arms. I was then laid down again, and a small -mirror being handed me, was suffered to invest myself once more in my -own clothes, from which I must have been absent more than two hours.</p> - -<p>The price of the Arab bath varies considerably, the more so, that each -individual operator expects a fee, a practice which sometimes causes a -deal of trouble and confusion. I paid generally ten piastres, (about -two shillings,) to the door-keeper for distribution, and with this sum -I found them abundantly satisfied. A Frank, however, is expected to pay -better than a native, who would never think of giving more than three -or four piastres.</p> - -<p>At Cairo, I staid nearly a fortnight, making some very agreeable -acquaintances, for Raven’s little office was a snuggery which every -Englishman in the place considered he had a right to visit at least -once in the day; and as a copy of “Galignani,” arrived three times -a month, with an occasional<span class="pagenum" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</span> “Times” or “Chronicle” addressed to -myself, the divan under the window was generally occupied by <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> A., -or some magnate from the Consular Office, who would sit an hour to -chat over the latest news, and tap a bottle of Moline’s “pale India.” -One particular drawer in Raven’s desk was filled with a choice lot of -Manillas, to which all had access, and so thoroughly was this liberal -system of smoking appreciated, that a box of a thousand, generally -disappeared in the course of a fortnight, for some, not content with -the few they could consume in the room, made off with a bundle of ten -or a dozen, to kill the musquitoes in their own quarters.</p> - -<p>Raven’s office, though not more than fourteen feet by eight, contained -an incredible number of drawers, and it was rarely that he was asked -for anything, which he could not immediately produce from one or other -of these receptacles. Travellers very often leave things behind them, -in the hurry and confusion of packing, and thus it happened that a -heterogeneous collection of articles from all parts of the globe, fell -into the hands of Raven, who, if he failed to identify them, would -deposit them carefully away, in the hope that some day or other, the -owner might return and claim his property. It more often happened, -however, that these stray properties were never afterwards inquired -for,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</span> and many is the goodly cloak and well-stuffed carpet-bag, with -now and then a watch or a snuff-box, which has thus found a protector.</p> - -<p><abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> A., the only English physician in Cairo, (and he by the way is an -American,) to whom I have before alluded, lives in a quiet part of the -city, in a large and straggling, but commodious house, fitted up in -the Oriental style. The doctor has considerable practice amongst the -townsfolk and Frank residents, who are pretty sure to call him in on -any emergency; but I fancy, that one passing windfall, in the shape of -an English traveller, or an invalid officer on leave from India, suits -the book of the worthy <i>Hakeem</i>, better than a whole hospital of -sick Mahometans.</p> - -<p>When not occupied by his Esculapian duties, the doctor devotes a part -of his time to the formation of a cabinet of Egyptian antiquities, -and he is so well known to the Arabs as a collector of rarities, that -relics of all descriptions find their way to him, the bearer being -generally rewarded according to the outward appearance of the article, -by a sum often strangely disproportionate to its real value. Among -other objects of great interest, is a ring of solid virgin gold of -great weight, which from its hieroglyph, is supposed to have belonged -to one of the Pharaohs. By this, the doctor<span class="pagenum" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</span> deservedly sets great -store, and has repeatedly refused to part with it, although a very high -price has been offered. Mummy ornaments of all descriptions, with holy -beetles and scaribei, form a prominent portion of the collection, which -is visited by most travellers as one of the sights of Cairo.</p> - -<p>During my first sojourn in the capital, I was naturally anxious to -get to the Pyramids, and satisfy the burning curiosity I had always -felt to see these extraordinary monuments. I was dissuaded, however, -from paying them an immediate visit, by a promise on the part of <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> -Raven, to get up and personally conduct an expedition to explore them -at leisure, and as he had assisted Colonel Vyse in opening those of -Ghizeh, which had been partially explored by Belzoni, and then once -more closed, I was the more ready to submit to this arrangement and -profit by his experience. The rising of the Nile too, which was now -rapidly filling, was an obstacle, inasmuch as the distance from Cairo -to the first Pyramids is but five miles, by the ordinary route when the -water is off the plain, whilst at the time of the inundation, it is -twenty miles or more, and the road rendered difficult and dangerous.</p> - -<p>I therefore contented myself with visiting such objects of interest in -Cairo and its immediate neighbourhood, as were<span class="pagenum" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</span> within the compass of a -walk, as the mad-house, and citadel, and the royal gardens of Shoubra -and Rhoda, &c.</p> - -<p>In these little excursions, I was accompanied by a gentleman named -Bell, to whom I was introduced by <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> A., at whose house he was a -visitor. He had but just returned from a long journey into Abyssinia -and the Galla country, where he had met with much hardship and -adventure. It happened that a certain Colonel Ashton, who had ventured -into that uncivilized part of the world, had died, as was asserted, -of brain-fever, but his relatives, not satisfied with this account -of the unfortunate gentleman’s death, had begged <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> A. to send off -some trustworthy person to ascertain the real state of the case. Bell, -who, at that moment happened to have nothing particular to do, and -found time hanging heavily upon his hands, volunteered his services, -which were forthwith accepted. Taking with him a sufficient escort, he -disembarked at Missouah, and penetrated as far southward as the spot -where the Colonel died, finding the account, in the main, perfectly -correct, and satisfying his relatives that he had not met with a -violent death. Some of Bell’s adventures were curious and amusing, and -it is matter of considerable regret to me, that I have not preserved -a more complete record of his perils and escapes. By one chief he -was<span class="pagenum" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</span> detained as a sort of prisoner, and was not allowed to proceed -on his journey until he contrived to purchase his liberty by some -well-displayed feats of arms, which completely won over the heart of -the old king. On one occasion, he was called upon to <em>play</em> (!) -a tilting match with his majesty, who, doubtless proposed to himself -great sport in knocking Bell off his horse, and maybe sending a long -spear through his body. My countryman, who by the way, was a powerful -athletic fellow of six feet one or two, young and full of vigour, and -a perfect horseman, vaulted gaily into his saddle, and acting only -on the defensive, happily succeeded in parrying the strokes of his -adversary’s lance which glanced harmlessly off his shield, calmly -awaiting a favourable opportunity to take his turn at the opposing -target. This came sooner than he anticipated, for the chief, thrown -off his guard, probably by a false estimate of Bell’s skill in this -sort of tactics, slacking his attention for a moment, received a -well-directed lance in the very centre of his shield, which sent him -rolling on the grass, to his own infinite amusement, as well as that -of such of his liege subjects as witnessed the sport. The old chief, -was, in fact, so well pleased with the courage and address displayed -by Bell, that he presented him with the white mule, from which he had -but a moment before so ignominiously parted<span class="pagenum" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</span> company, and conferred a -sort of knighthood upon him into the bargain, by the gift of a splendid -gold-embossed shield, ornamented with the lion’s tail, which is one of -the insignia of royalty.</p> - -<p>From this moment, our friend stood high in the favour of the Court, -and attended the king on several excursions against a neighbouring -tribe, with whom he was then at war. On one of these occasions, Bell -was severely wounded by a lance through his hip, but was carefully -nursed by the chief’s family, who, although very loth to part with -him, suffered him at length to continue his journey, loading him with -provisions and presents, and increasing the number of his escort. -Farther south, he was attacked by robbers, who plundered him of -everything save his arms, and left him for dead upon the ground, with a -lance through his head, which entering the nose, came out at the back -of the neck, and was eventually withdrawn without doing much injury.<a id="FNanchor_11" href="#Footnote_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a></p> - -<p>Having accomplished the object of his mission, Bell returned to Cairo, -where it was that I fell in with him very shortly afterwards. A few -months subsequently, he again set out for Abyssinia in company with -two other gentlemen,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</span> with the intention of reaching the source of -the White Nile, by which name the main stream is distinguished. It -was a totally different branch which Bruce traced to its rise, and -the true position of the sources of the Nile still appears to be -unauthenticated. It remains to be seen what success has attended their -efforts.</p> - - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_10" href="#FNanchor_10" class="label">[10]</a> “Good, good.”</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_11" href="#FNanchor_11" class="label">[11]</a> These facts I give to the reader as I had them from Bell, -who subsequently suffered acutely from the wounds in his head.</p> - -</div> -</div> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_IX">CHAPTER IX.</h2> -</div> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>THE NILE BOAT—VOYAGE DOWN THE RIVER—DEFENSIVE PREPARATIONS—SUDDEN -SQUALL—NARROW ESCAPE—ALEXANDRIA—RIVAL HOTELS—LESSONS IN -DONKEYSHIP—DOMESTIC COOKERY—THE “GREAT LIVERPOOL”—PHYSIOLOGY OF THE -SEIS.</p> -</div> - - -<p>At the end of the month I accompanied <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Raven to Alexandria in one of -his Nile sailing-boats, which are light and commodious little vessels, -drawing but two or three feet of water, and especially adapted for the -voyage into upper Egypt, to which purpose indeed they are principally -applied. Having sunk it under water for a day or two, and cleansed -it as much as possible of fleas and cockroaches, we shipped a goodly -cafass of provisions, and taking with us an Arab cook, embarked at -nightfall. The wind was unfortunately against us, obliging our crew -to use their oars, and very much retarding our progress. Our boat, -which was somewhat of a hobby of Raven’s, was very completely fitted -with every possible convenience, and had two compact little cabins -under the poop-deck, just long enough for a person to lie down in, one -being furnished with bed-places. In the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</span> middle of the forward cabin, -was a sort of tuck-up table, on which our supper was now laid out -by our swarthy factotum, who had for some little time been tickling -our appetites with the grateful odours of certain savoury ragoûts, -concocted over a charcoal fire ’midships. Over our heads, suspended -from the roof, swung a monstrous stable-lantern, shedding a dim yellow -light, just sufficient to show us the way to our mouths, for to read -or talk were equally impossible, owing to the unceasing song of the -Arab boatmen, who accompany themselves as they row, with a rude melody, -by no means grateful to English ears. All we could do, was to recline -at our ease, and puff away at our chibouques, until the heavy dew, -which wetted everything, as effectually as if we had been exposed to a -drizzling rain, drove us to our couches.</p> - -<p>I awoke several times during the night, and emerging from the cabin, -found every one but myself fast asleep, the vessel gliding noiselessly -down the stream. Even the head of the old Reis, who was perched upon -the roof of the cabin, had dropped down upon his chest, and saving the -ripple of the water under our bows, and the measured snore of some of -our party, no sound was to be heard, and we moved imperceptibly onwards -in perfect stillness. I had no heart to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</span> arouse any of the poor tired -Arabs from their stolen slumbers, the more especially, as I knew the -danger of running aground to be but slight; so once more seeking my -hard bed, and covering myself completely in my cloak, I bid defiance -to musquitoes and cockroaches, and was soon deep in pleasant dreams of -home.</p> - -<p>The two next days were passed in our boat, the monotony of the voyage -being varied by occasional runs on shore, when we moored at some -village or other, to take in a fresh supply of milk or vegetables. At -other times, where the high banks afforded good walking, we indulged in -a little shooting, for doves and small birds were very plentiful, and -afforded excellent eating. As the third night closed in, a light breeze -sprung up, which aided us considerably in our progress, and inspired -our tired crew with fresh energy.</p> - -<p>As we made our preparations for turning in, I remarked that Raven -drew from his pocket a huge knife, which, after a careful inspection, -he deposited with great gravity under his pillow, though whether -as a precaution against intrusion, or any act of foul play on the -part of our boatmen, I did not inquire, merely viewing such unwonted -preparation with considerable curiosity.</p> - -<p>I had not been long asleep, when I found myself suddenly<span class="pagenum" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</span> rolled from -my sofa on to the floor, our stable-lantern and dining-table bearing -me company; and on opening my eyes, I could just catch a glimpse of -Raven escaping from the door-way with his big knife, whilst the violent -vociferations of the Arabs on deck, mingled with a confused rushing -sound of both wind and water, and the alarming lurch of the vessel, -left me in some doubt as to whether I was murdered or drowning. A -moment more and tranquillity was restored; the boat righted, and I -found my legs. Emerging from the cabin, I learnt that a sudden puff -of wind had caught our huge lateen sail, which, in true Arab fashion, -had been made fast to a ring in the deck, whilst the lazy sailor, who -ought to have held it, was enjoying a comfortable nap. Had it not been -for the promptitude displayed by Raven, who had severed the rope with -the trusty knife from under his pillow, it is more than probable that -<em>he</em> would have got a sound ducking, and <em>I</em> have served as -a <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">bonne bouche</i> for some stray crocodile; for the Nile boatmen, -who are amphibious, and look upon an unexpected dip rather as a treat -than otherwise, have the unpleasant habit of extending assistance only -to those in supreme authority. Thus, while they would have rescued <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> -Raven, I might have bubbled away my last breath in the cabin, or have<span class="pagenum" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</span> -floated down the stream, entirely unheeded and uncared for.</p> - -<p>Providentially, however, we were saved from capsizing, and having -bestowed two or three hearty kicks on the man who had caused the -sudden alarm, we retired again to our couches, and reached Atféh about -daybreak, without farther mishap.</p> - -<p>Half-an-hour was passed here in preparing one of the iron track-boats -to convey us down the Canal to Alexandria, where we arrived about three -in the afternoon, and just in time for me to put off in a little boat -to meet one of the French steamers, which was visible in the offing. -Furner and I had a sharp race with a rival boat from Colomb’s Hotel, -and as the French captain suffered their agent to come on board, whilst -he politely saluted us with a copious sprinkling of warm water, it -was some satisfaction to remark that there was not even one solitary -passenger for either of us. There is considerable jealousy between the -proprietors of the “Rey” and “Colomb,” by which names the two principal -hotels are distinguished, and we hear that the opposing party is about -to start some canal-boats, and a couple of desert carriages, at a lower -rate of transit. This is doubtless all very fair, and as competition -generally<span class="pagenum" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</span> benefits the public, we shall watch with interest the -progress of our rivals.</p> - -<p><abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Raven quitted us again the next day to return to Cairo, taking with -him Mrs. Hill and her little daughter, the widow and child of his late -partner, who had been sojourning some time in Alexandria. We drove -down to Moharrem Bey in one of Rey’s carriages, and the evening being -very dark, we had much difficulty in picking our way through the ruins -which mark the site of the ancient city, and ran many chances of an -upset in one or other of the deep holes which skirt the track. Raven -gave me instructions, upon this occasion, to look after and see to the -safe conduct of the Marquis of ——, the newly appointed Governor of -Madras, who is expected by the next steamer from England, and enjoined -me to pay particular attention to the comfort of his lordship during -the voyage to Cairo, and to place at his disposal the whole of one -of our track-boats, that he may be delayed as little as possible. -Having received my orders, I returned to the Okella with the agreeable -prospect before me of a few days quiet, prior to the arrival of the -next mail.</p> - -<p>I shall spare the reader a detail of my every-day life at Alexandria, -for my time when not taken up by office-duties, or the study of Arabic, -in which I was now making some<span class="pagenum" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</span> progress, was chiefly occupied in -strolling through the bazaars, or in extended rambles with Furner on -donkey-back, in search of the picturesque. Our rides were frequently -productive of much amusement, for Furner excelled in donkeyship, riding -at full gallop à la Franconi, or sitting with his face to the tail, in -order to obtain a better command of his animal’s flank. Numerous also, -were the tumbles we got, but as we never made use of our stirrups, we -invariably pitched upon our feet, and by this very simple precaution, -escaped the bruises which fall to the lot of such as place too much -confidence in these little animals.</p> - -<p>We were frequently accompanied in our rambles by our fair friend from -Beyrout, who had shewn her appreciation of Raven’s offer of house-room -for a few days, by permanently hanging up her cap in our hall, where -she makes herself extremely useful in superintending our household -affairs. Were she anything of a cook, it is probable that our own -particular “<em>chef</em>” would take umbrage at her interference, but -she is guiltless of even the most superficial knowledge of the art, -and it was with much difficulty that I initiated her into the mystery -of making an apple-pie. It is true that the first attempt on my part -was any thing but calculated to impress her with a very exalted idea -of my qualifications, but then I<span class="pagenum" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</span> had so many difficulties to contend -with. In the first place, I do not suppose that all Egypt could have -furnished a pie-dish, for which I was compelled to substitute an -Italian wash-hand basin. One of our tables served as a dough-board, -and an empty wine-bottle for a rolling-pin, and having cut and cored -my apples, I covered the whole over with what I thought an excellent -paste, and sent it to a neighbouring oven, reserving myself during the -first part of our dinner for the full enjoyment of the anticipated -luxury. It came in due course, but somehow or other resisted all our -efforts to get at the inside of it. Our knives made no impression -whatever on the crust, which was of adamantine quality, totally -shaming the old proverb about promises and pie-crusts, and after -various ineffectual schemes, we found our only way was to turn it -bottom upwards, and carefully break away the dish, revenging ourselves -upon the apples, which were excellent. Succeeding attempts proved -more satisfactory, and we became eventually rather famous for our -productions in this branch of cookery.</p> - -<p>On the 18th of the month, the “Great Liverpool” arrived at Alexandria, -bringing the expected Marquis of ——, and about forty other -passengers. We got away about three in the afternoon, reaching Atféh at -midnight, but<span class="pagenum" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</span> the quantity of luggage was so enormous, that it took -us upwards of three hours to shift it on board the “Cairo” steamer, -and two hours more would very likely have been occupied, but for the -assistance of a French gentleman named Cler, connected in some way -with the Company, who had accompanied us thus far. We did at last turn -our backs upon Atféh, and after a brief stoppage at Cairo, arrived at -Suez just in time to catch the “Berenice” steamer, although some of -our party, who stuck fast in the sand, between Nos. 2 and 3 Station, -had a hard push for it: these were the Governor of Goa and his suite, -four gentlemen in one carriage, who were compelled to vary the monotony -of their journey by a ride of sixteen miles on the bare backs of the -horses, which brought them on to <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 4 in a deplorable condition. It -was some consolation to them to find a good meal in readiness, for -having seen their mishap, I had ridden quickly forward, in order to -dispatch an empty carriage to bring them on, a procedure, now rendered -useless by their appearance. So anxious were they about catching the -steamer, that I could with difficulty persuade them to sit down while -they swallowed their hot stew.</p> - -<p>On reaching Suez, I went on board the “Berenice,” with <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Hill, who, -having personally driven the Marquis of ——<span class="pagenum" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</span> across the desert, -obtained a flattering testimonial as to care and attention during -the journey, which had in fact been made in little more than twelve -hours, by those in the first three carriages. At the hotel, I met with -a Captain J——, an officer on sick leave, from India, who bore me -company on my return to Cairo; and as time was no particular object -to either of us, we spent two days and nights on the way, changing -horses only once. Our “<i>Seis</i>,” or running footman, kept up -with us the whole weary eighty-four miles, relieving himself only -by occasionally hanging on behind, and refusing our offer of a seat -inside with stoical indifference. He, poor fellow, like the rest of -his class, was a mere skeleton, his flesh being wasted away by undue -perspirations, and a lack of such food as is essential to keep up the -stamina during such continued exercise. Each set of horses, or team, -has its attendant “<i>Seis</i>,” who, whilst the animals are resting, -snatches a brief sleep, and swallows his unpretending meal of bread -and water, with perhaps a relish in the shape of an onion, or a pull -at the <i>nargileh</i> of the old <i>bawaub</i>, or door-keeper. As it -sometimes happens that the same team of horses has to perform two or -three stages, the poor “Seis” comes in for a double duty, which is, -nevertheless, unhesitatingly accomplished, and even entered upon with -joyful<span class="pagenum" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</span> alacrity, should the prospect be seasoned with the promise of -a trifle of <i>bucksheesh</i> on the part of any of the travellers. I -have known them to convey a letter or message from Cairo to Suez with -incredible speed, running all the way, and carrying with them in the -bosom of their blue cotton shirt, just as much bread as would serve to -sustain them on the journey.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_X">CHAPTER X.</h2> -</div> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>CAIRO—THE TURKISH BAZAAR—TEST OF A SWORD-BLADE—THE “LITTLE -NILE”—RECOLLECTIONS OF THE PLAGUE—THE EGLINTOUN TENTS—PROCEEDINGS -IN THE “GREAT SQUARE”—ASTONISHMENT OF THE PASHA—A MAHOMEDAN -DINNER-PARTY—NOVEL DISHES—A JEWISH WEDDING—IMPERTINENT -CURIOSITY—THE BRIDE’S DOWER—A CUNNING HEBREW.</p> -</div> - - -<p>On arriving at Cairo, I refreshed myself with a bath, and accompanied -Captain J—— to see my friend Bell, who was still located at the house -of <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> A. We found him dressed in a loose silken garment, squatted -cross-legged on a low divan, whilst he alternately puffed at a large -sheesheh of the doctor’s, and sipped his morning cup of coffee. Having -finished his toilet, which the addition of a pair of slippers rendered -complete, we took a long stroll through the Turkish Bazaar, which is -one of the chief attractions of Cairo, where jewels and gems of all -kinds, with golden stuffs and embroideries, and the varied productions -of Eastern ingenuity are displayed before the wondering gaze of the -stranger. The more precious goods are enclosed in glass cases on -either side of the narrow file of shops, and behind these is seated<span class="pagenum" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</span> -the smiling merchant, who invites attention to his costly wares, or, -should you be personally known to him, points to a vacant cushion, and -replenishes your pipe with <i>gebelee</i>. We had a long chat in the -sanctum of one of these gentlemen, with whom Bell appeared on terms -of intimacy, and very civil and agreeable he was, explaining to us, -through the medium of our friend, the uses of various little objects -of luxury connected with the hareem and the domestic habits of the -Mooslim, which we might otherwise have had difficulty in ascertaining.</p> - -<p>My own object in visiting the Bazaar, was to effect the purchase of -a sword or scymitar, in order to complete my <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">costume du pays</i>, -but as I found that those exposed for sale in the Turkish quarter were -of a better quality than I needed, and of a price far beyond what I -intended to give, we repaired to another portion of the Bazaar, where I -could select from among some thousands of all kinds and qualities. As -the weapon was to be used as an ornament only, and would have answered -my purpose equally well, had the blade been firmly screwed to the -scabbard, or altogether wanting, I selected an undeniable “Brummagem,” -with a tastily ornamented horn handle, and goodly external appearance. -For the silken cord and tassels which form the appendages,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</span> I had -to walk to an entirely different quarter, where such articles are -exclusively manufactured, and after a due proportion of bargaining, -I succeeded in completing my purchase. On returning to the hotel, -I submitted my weapon to the judgment of Raven and <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> A——, who -resolved to test its value by actual experiment. A sword-blade is -considered to be of good quality, when it will sever a nail at one -blow. Placing, therefore, a full-sized tenpenny on a wooden door-sill, -<abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> A., who acted as <i lang="de" xml:lang="de">Scharfrichter</i>, took a deliberate aim, and -let fly. The nail vanished, and I was about to pronounce my blade -a genuine “Damascus,” when the doctor, lowering its point, coolly -requested me to withdraw the nail, which was fairly notched therein, -and was found unmarked by the blow. I then dared the doctor to a -similar experiment with his own sword, which was unhesitatingly agreed -to and tried, but with a very different result, the nail being severed; -but as there is a knack in directing the blow, so as to fall at a -particular angle, I doubt if he would have allowed me to perform his -part in the ordeal.</p> - -<p>As Captain J—— was anxious to be off to Alexandria, I ordered a -<i>cafass</i> of provisions to be sent down to Boulac, and one of our -best boats to be got in readiness. We set<span class="pagenum" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</span> sail with a fair wind, and a -tolerably high Nile, at seven in the evening, and were one day and two -nights in reaching Atféh. I much regretted the loss of my travelling -companion, whose society had proved most agreeable, although his health -was so impaired, that he appeared to move with difficulty. I lost sight -of him on reaching Alexandria, and imagine that he joined some one in -an extended tour into Upper Egypt.</p> - -<p>On making my appearance in the morning at the “Agency Office,” I was -introduced by Furner to a Captain Proudfoot, who had just arrived in a -small steam-vessel called the “Little Nile,” recently purchased by <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> -Waghorn, for the service between Cairo and Atféh. I was astonished, -when I went on board, that so frail a cockle-shell could ever have -lived in a rolling sea, like that of the Bay of Biscay. She is of iron, -flat-bottomed, and used to ply on the Thames, above bridge, and it -could scarcely have been any common inducement that tempted Captain -Proudfoot and his little crew, to undertake so perilous a voyage. Off -Cape Finisterre they encountered a severe storm, which lifted the very -boilers from their fastenings, and drove her on shore almost a wreck, -but they managed to repair her in such a way, that they reached Malta -in safety, and there patched her<span class="pagenum" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</span> up more effectually. <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Raven has -now put her into the hands of one of the Pasha’s engineers, who is -altering her to suit the nature of the Nile service, and when complete, -she will be the fastest and most jaunty of the river steamers.</p> - -<p>In the beginning of September, <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Raven paid us a visit, in order -to see what progress had been made, and to carry out some ideas of -his own, with respect to the interior arrangements of the new vessel. -Finding that he intended to send back to England her binnacle and -compasses, I remarked, that he might find them useful in the event -of plague breaking out, as he could then make a run for one of the -islands in the Archipelago, and so avoid a tedious imprisonment. The -idea seemed to strike him as feasible, the more so, that he remembered -being shut up for six months in a house at Cairo, without once being -permitted to cross the threshold, the doors being sealed, and a -watchman constantly on the look-out. Provisions were drawn up in -baskets, and paid for by money let down in a bucket of water. These -precautions were rendered necessary, by the critical state of one of -the household, who was attacked with plague, but eventually recovered. -Poor Raven aired himself on the house-top, and almost got by heart -every book in the place, until the seals were knocked off, and he was -suffered<span class="pagenum" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</span> to escape; but, as may well be imagined, the remembrance -of his captivity, and its horrors, is not easily to be effaced, and -he will scarcely suffer himself to be entrapped a second time. The -compasses were, therefore, safely deposited in our store, and I got -Captain Proudfoot to explain to me the arrangement of the magnets, with -which a sea-going iron boat is always furnished, so that I might be -able to replace them, in the event of their being wanted.</p> - -<p>Some person having mentioned to the Pasha, that some curious tents -belonging to <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Waghorn, were lying in the custom-house, we have -received intimation of a vice-royal wish to see some of them erected. -It seems that the tents in question, formed part of those put up -at Eglintoun Castle, on the occasion of the famed tournament, and -that they were afterwards purchased by <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Waghorn, to serve as -sheltering-places on the desert, between the Stations. <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Raven -accordingly gave directions that the cases should be transported to -the far end of the square, where a fit spot, near the Greek Consulate, -was selected, Furner and I being deputed to unpack and overhaul them. -We soon found this to be no easy task, as they appeared to have been -huddled up together, without the slightest regard to arrangement; and -although we possessed an invoice, which enabled us in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</span> a measure to -identify them, we could only succeed in finding the component parts of -one out of the whole half-dozen.</p> - -<p>We commenced our operations, by laying down the poles, and digging -a couple of deep holes to plant them in, but on attaching the roofs -of the tent thereto, and raising them into perpendicular position, -our edifice bore the appearance of two gigantic green umbrellas, and -the sides, when rigged up, failed to approach the ground by seven or -eight feet. We had therefore to shorten the poles, and erect a sort of -scaffolding, in which latter operation, we were assisted by the crew -of the “Little Nile,” but all our efforts to produce anything like a -tent were unavailing. Our sailors too, soon discovered that pitching -tents was very dry work, and struck for a supply of beer, which we -were but too glad to furnish; so availing ourselves of the agreeable -shelter afforded by the thick tarpaulin, we converted our marquee into -a beer-shop, very much to the astonishment of Mehemet Ali, who, calling -upon us as he took his usual afternoon airing, found half-a-dozen jolly -tars smoking their clay pipes, and discussing bottled beer in the -quondam shrine of the Queen of Beauty.<a id="FNanchor_12" href="#Footnote_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</span></p> - -<p>We could not induce the Pasha to cross the threshold and inspect our -handiwork, although some of his suite had the curiosity to take a peep -at the interior. His Highness seemed fully satisfied with this one -visit, as he never again honoured us with a call, and the tent was soon -after taken down, and reconsigned with its fellows to the custom-house, -where I think it not unlikely that they still remain.</p> - -<p>A few days after this, I was invited with Furner and our Greek friend -L——, to an entertainment at the house of a Mahomedan acquaintance, -who wished us to partake of a dinner served in the Eastern way. On -reaching his dwelling, situated in the most agreeable portion of the -Arab quarter, or old town, we were ushered up some outside stairs, -into a long room on the first floor, which was tastefully carpeted -and fitted with low divans. As we entered at one door, there was a -great rustling of silks and shuffling of feet through another at the -far extremity, which we attributed to the rapid escape of a portion -of our friend’s hareem, who had been taking a sly peep at us from a -window above, as we<span class="pagenum" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</span> stood talking in the court-yard. Placed on the -carpet were half-a-dozen little octagonal tables of coloured reeds, -about eighteen inches high, and upon these, as soon as we had squatted -ourselves down, were deposited as many dishes of pewter, of enormous -size, filled with a great variety of meats and poultry, baked, stewed, -and roasted, from among which a whole kid and a gigantic turkey, -greeted us conspicuously. Our host apologized to us for having the -whole of the first course placed upon the table at once, as such is -not customary, but he felt more satisfied that we should “see our -dinner,” and thus partake of what pleased us best. It was impossible -for us to make any objection to so excellent an arrangement, so, -having carefully cleansed, or rather moistened our finger-ends with -rose-water, we fell to without ceremony. In deference, however, to our -European habits, knives and forks were placed within our reach, and -I soon succeeded in making a hole in the kid, which was elaborately -stuffed with raisins and pistachio nuts. It would be useless for me to -attempt an enumeration of all the dishes, of which indeed I have but -an imperfect recollection: I had already dined, when another course -was brought in, consisting of sweets and vegetables, and a large -rice-pudding, in a red sea of damson-juice; love-apples and pumpkins, -elegantly <i>farçies</i>,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</span> and fruits both stewed and dried, completed -our repast; and as it is said, that good eating requires good drinking, -there was no lack of excellent wine. Pipes and coffee followed as a -matter of course, and we were afterwards favoured with an instrumental -performance by the Pasha’s private band, from which infliction, we made -as speedy an escape as possible, although our host would not allow us -to depart, until the whole five were put completely “hors de combat,” -by Furner’s timely administration of brandy-and-water, alluded to in a -former chapter.</p> - -<p>Quitting our friend’s house, and gaining the more frequented portion of -the city, we were astonished by the unusual appearance of an enormous -crowd of persons of both sexes, and the still more uncommon sound of -military music. Upon inquiry, we learned that the hubbub was caused -by a long bridal procession, in celebration of the “<i>noces</i>” of -a Jew and a Levantine girl, and being anxious to see all we could, -Furner and I joined in with the rest. The band, composed of amateurs, -led the way, followed by the bride and her attendants, with a “posse -comitatus” from all quarters. We walked I suppose, about half-a-mile, -accompanied by ambulating pots of fire, halting at every fifth or sixth -house to perform a “serenata.” At length we reached<span class="pagenum" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</span> the dwelling of -the bridegroom, where the bride and her immediate suite were forthwith -admitted, and I, having in vain looked round for my friend, was making -an effort to cross the threshold with the rest, when the door was -unceremoniously slammed in my face.</p> - -<p>The old “<i>bawaub</i>,” however, was not proof against a nine-piastre -piece, which is an infallible open-sesame, and having ascended the -flight of stone-steps, which led to the upper story, I found myself in -a large room, in presence of some fifty or more persons of all ages, -and, to judge by their costume, from every part of the Mediterranean. -I soon discovered that I was the only Englishman in the company, and -with one or two exceptions, the only individual in a Frank dress, and -my casual glance round the room failing to reveal one single face that -was known to me, I began to feel in rather an awkward situation. It -was too late to retreat, as I had been already noticed, and concluding -that I should best avoid an appearance of singularity, by doing as the -rest, I made a profound salutation to the husband, who escorted me to -a divan at the upper end of the apartment, and in a manner the most -obsequious, motioned me to a seat, and remained near me until I was -served with sherbet and a pipe. I was at a loss to assign a cause for -so much courtesy towards<span class="pagenum" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</span> a pork-eating unbeliever, though the reason -was shortly afterwards, rendered sufficiently obvious.</p> - -<p>At midnight there was a great commotion at the other end of the room: -the bride was introduced, and placed on a chair in the middle of the -floor, covered with a very thin veil of pink gauze, and resplendent -with jewels. All her attendants were more or less shrouded in veils, -most of them weighed down with rows of gold twenty-piastre pieces, by -way of fringe. The bride appeared, as well as I was able to judge, -very beautiful, and was in a charming state of confusion, every now -and then glancing stealthily at her husband, whom she now saw, in all -probability, for the first time. No sooner were the company gathered -round the trembling girl, than two of the attendants held up the -corners of her apron, to receive the contributions of such as were -inclined to make her a wedding present, and now my mind was enlightened -as to the unlooked for politeness of the Jew bridegroom. I turned -round, and encountered his gaze full upon me, but I felt myself a match -for him. Keeping close to the side of a jolly old Alexandrian, who was -fumbling in his girdle, and seizing the moment when he ostentatiously -let fall a shower of gold coin, I suddenly put forth my hand and -dropped my modest donation, in such a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</span> way as entirely to conceal its -amount from the eyes of the wily Hebrew. Judging from the quantity of -money collected, I should say that the newly-married couple made a very -good thing of it, as every one contributed, and nothing but gold was -offered. This ceremony over, the bride, half-fainting with fatigue and -terror, was led away to her apartments; and not wishing to encroach -farther on the hospitality of the Jew, I quitted the <i>fantasia</i>, -and returned home.</p> - - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_12" href="#FNanchor_12" class="label">[12]</a> Our invoice led us to infer, that the tent in question, -was that which had been appropriated to Lady Seymour at the Eglintoun -festival, but from the style of its furniture, we were compelled to -judge differently, believing rather, that those purchased by <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> -Waghorn, though very substantial and costly, could never have occupied -a very prominent place at the tournament.</p> - -</div> -</div> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XI">CHAPTER XI.</h2> -</div> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>DWARKANAUTH TAGORE—STORM IN THE MAHMOUDIEH—A CHAPTER OF -ACCIDENTS—THE HALF-DROWNED CADET—ARAB KNAVERY—EFFECTS OF THE -MURRAIN—DONKEY-CHAIRS—A MIDNIGHT GALLOP—ALTERATION IN PROSPECT—MY -VAN AND ITS OCCUPANTS—AN ENRAGED PORTUGUESE—DISAGREEABLE -SITUATION—CHRISTMAS-EVE—MIDNIGHT INTERRUPTION—GOOSE AND CHAMPAGNE.</p> -</div> - - -<p>As it is not my intention to weary the reader with a description of -each of my several journeyings across the Isthmus, I shall allude only -to two more at the close of the year 184-, when my engagement with -Messrs. Waghorn came to an end.</p> - -<p>On one of these occasions, I had the pleasure of conducting the late -lamented Baboo, (Dwarkanauth Tagore,) who was returning to India with -a large retinue of friends and dependants, after a rather protracted -stay in England. On our way up the Mahmoudieh, the boat of which I -was in charge, encountered a very severe storm or tornado, the wind -setting with extraordinary violence right in our teeth, and bringing us -to a complete stand still. We lay-to whilst<span class="pagenum" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</span> it lasted, for the space -of half-an-hour or so, and as we had no sail, or other impediment, -to offer any resistance, it passed over us without doing any injury; -but its effects, on resuming our course, were very apparent. A mile -farther up the Canal, we found a fine boat turned completely upside -down, and floating in a sea of sesamen and grain; hen-coops and dead -poultry, with half-emptied baskets of provisions, covered the surface -of the now still water, whilst the banks were strewed with fragments -of earthenware, and such valuables, as had been rescued from the -wreck. Two little children had perished, and the distracted mother -was wringing her hands and tearing her hair, in the intensity of her -sorrow. Farther on, a second boat lay swamped, with a portion of the -mast only out of water. A half-resuscitated English gentleman lay -gasping on the bank, having been rescued by one of the boatmen, who had -dived under to his assistance. A little brandy served completely to -restore him, and I then recognised a <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> L——, who had been staying -for some time in Alexandria, having retired from India on a pension. -We took him a mile or two with us, and then transferred him to another -boat, deeply bewailing the loss of some valuable property, which the -ducking would render useless.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</span></p> - -<p>This trip seemed destined to be replete with accident. A young cadet, -who had vainly sought below for some place wherein to stow himself -for the night, rolled himself up in two or three pea-jackets, and -lay down to sleep on the roof. A sudden lurch pitched him over into -sixteen feet of water, and had not some one who lay near him, heard -the splash, and raised an alarm, it would have been all over with him, -for the night was dark, and we were shooting rapidly a-head. The boat -was instantly stopped, and I then bade one of our Arabs to jump in and -rescue the unfortunate lad, promising him a liberal <i>bucksheesh</i>. -No, he would not go—if it had been in the day time, a dip would have -been of no consequence, but at night he was afraid. His companion was -equally inexorable, so, seeing that farther delay must prove fatal -to the cadet, I pushed the first in, when the other, fearing to lose -a share of the <i>bucksheesh</i>, followed of his own accord. Then -succeeded a few moments of very painful suspense, for they had a long -way to swim before reaching the spot where the accident occurred, -and it was probable that the cadet, encumbered as he was with three -coats, had sunk at once to the bottom. Great was our relief, therefore, -when the exclamations of the Arabs assured us that they had succeeded -in landing him, although it was not<span class="pagenum" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</span> very easily that animation was -restored. As the young gentleman himself had little or nothing to offer -in the shape of reward, to those who had been the means of saving him, -and seemed indeed to regard his return to mother earth with perfect -<em>nonchalance</em>, a subscription was got up among the passengers, and -one of the dripping Arabs went round to collect the offerings, which -were liberally showered into his greasy <i>tarboosh</i>. About three or -four pounds were thus netted, which certainly ought, in equity, to have -been divided between the two boatmen, but the glitter of the precious -metals proved too strong a temptation for our worthy collector, who, as -he emerged from the cabin, cast one glance towards the poop, where his -companion was seated at the tiller, and then securing the cap with its -contents, between his teeth, glided noiselessly over the side of the -boat, and dived clear off with his booty. I afterwards learned, that he -ran back to Alexandria, and invested his treasure in the purchase of a -snuff and tobacco shop.</p> - -<p>As Dwarkanauth travelled with many retainers, and there was also the -usual average of Overland passengers, our party for Suez was rather a -large one, and the murrain having robbed us of upwards of a score of -horses during the last few weeks, there was but little accommodation -in the way<span class="pagenum" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</span> of carriages. The invalids, and most of the ladies, got -seats, but the rest were obliged to have recourse to the donkey-chair -or saddle, whilst I selected a light dromedary, and trotted along with -the hindermost. We found it very difficult to keep together, and as the -darkness increased, were guided only by the harsh cries of the drivers, -as they urged on their unwilling animals. Every now and then some chair -would come down with a run, from the unequal motion of the two donkeys -attached to it, spilling the frightened occupant on to the hard sand, -or, what was still worse, a portion of the wretched harness would give -way, and cause the dropping of one corner of the sedan, which, if not -speedily rectified, is sufficient to tire the patience of the most -stoical. If the donkeys are well trained, no locomotion could be more -agreeable than that of these machines, but should the foremost animal -indulge in a canter, whilst his follower is not to be coaxed out of a -trot, the effect is perfectly indescribable.</p> - -<p>Our mishaps and delays were so frequent, that I at length grew weary -of perpetually dismounting from my lofty perch to render assistance, -and having fallen in with an interesting companion in the person of -T——, of Anti-slavery celebrity, we made up our minds to push on -together, the more especially<span class="pagenum" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</span> as the Calcutta steamer was waiting -for the Baboo and his party. At <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 5 Station, we exchanged our tired -<i>montures</i>, for two of our van horses, which had been left by one -of the foremost of the carriages, and thus, with halters of twisted -straw, and without saddles, we galloped away through the darkness, -very much to the amusement and satisfaction of my fellow-traveller, -who declared he had seldom experienced anything so pleasurable in the -way of a ride. It was certainly a glorious night, and the road, saving -where an occasional stone or piece of rock, threatened to bring down -our stumbling hacks, safe and pleasant. I could not, however, enter -very fully into the feelings of my companion, for I was fearful that -the steamer might have put to sea before we could reach Suez, and I -had yet a good deal to receive from several of the passengers, who had -quitted Cairo before I had collected their monies. There was nothing -either to be got at the Stations in the way of provision, for the -parties who preceded us, had demolished everything eatable, saving a -few potatoes and onions, which we sliced up and made into soup.</p> - -<p>By the time we reached the hotel, every one was gone to the ship, -to which I also made the best of my way in a light skiff. They were -raising the anchor as I gained the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</span> deck, and I had but little time to -parley with such of the passengers as were on my books. With the Baboo -I had no trouble, as he immediately handed me a cheque on his bankers, -but with some of the others I was not so fortunate, for finding -themselves in security, and the vessel almost under weigh, they would -fain have taxed their bill. In this emergency, I pencilled a hasty note -to our agent at Bombay, which I dropped into the letter-box on board, -and having taken this precaution, quitted the ship.</p> - -<p>I was driven back alone to Cairo in two days, staying the intervening -night at <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 4 Station. As we approached <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2, which is some twenty -miles from the city, we came upon Messrs. F—— and D——, of the -Peninsula and Oriental Company, making a trial of one of the new iron -carriages, constructed for desert use, by the eminent builder, Andrews -of Southampton. In respect of comfort and appearance, they are all that -can be desired, but the account which I received of their go-a-head -capabilities, was certainly not much in their favour. My two friends -had quitted Cairo two days before I fell in with them, with four horses -and a plentiful larder, and after countless stoppages, had at last come -to a complete standstill, in the middle of a vast field of loose sand, -in which the narrow iron wheels were effectually<span class="pagenum" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</span> embedded, more than -half way up to the axle, and still deeper they would have gone, but -for the body of the carriage, which was resting on the sand. I found -the two travellers and their driver lolling at great ease, over a fine -ham and sundry chickens, and as they robbed my driver of two of his -horses, we levied a counter contribution on them, and made free with -their knives and forks. Soon after quitting them, they made another -advance of half-a-mile, and then, finding the loose sand too powerful -an opponent to their progress, turned their horses’ heads round, and -returned to Cairo. These new carriages do not appear (to me at least,) -adapted to the peculiarities of the desert, inasmuch as the wheels are -too small, and the tyres not nearly broad enough, whilst the cranked -axles are directly opposed to easy draught. I am not aware with whom -the design originated, but it would have been wiser in my opinion, to -have fairly established a fault in those already so long in use, than -to have risked the expense of building half-a-dozen new ones, on a -principle, which any one moderately experienced in Egyptian travelling, -would have immediately condemned. The carriages used by <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Waghorn, in -appearance, a cross between a bathing-machine and an errand-cart, are -really constructed on good sound principles, and cost Raven a great<span class="pagenum" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</span> -amount of trouble and expense in their perfection. The wheels are six -feet in diameter, and will clear a tolerably large lump of rock or -stone, without breaking a spring; they are also so skilfully balanced, -that when loaded, there is but little weight thrown on the shaft horse, -and their motion is both easy and agreeable.</p> - -<p>Two or three days after my return to Cairo, and during some -conversation with Raven, I learnt that the affairs of the Company -by whom I was employed, were likely to undergo a change, and that -arrangements were about to be entered into, to dispose advantageously, -of the whole concern. I should scarcely have received this information -so soon, but for the kindness of Raven, who was anxious that I should -be on the look out for some other mode of employing myself, as in the -course of another month or two, the management would probably pass into -other hands, and I should then be at loose ends in a foreign land. -In the event of my wishing to remain in Egypt, he promised his best -influence in my behalf with his successors, though it was not likely -they would retain many English in their employ.</p> - -<p>Thanking him very cordially, I promised to think the matter over, and -proceeded once more to Alexandria, to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</span> meet the “Great Liverpool,” -and make my last official trip across the desert. She arrived on -the 29th of the month, and brought some thirty or more passengers, -among whom were the Imaum of Muscat, and to my great satisfaction, -my friend P——, with his amiable and accomplished wife, whom he was -transplanting from the bogs of Ireland, to cheer his solitude in Egypt.</p> - -<p>We reached Cairo without let or hindrance, but scarcely had we passed -the tombs of the Sheiks, on the verge of the desert, than our horses -began to <i>gib</i>, and I foresaw that a night of trouble was before -us. The van in which I rode, contained rather a mixed party, in the -persons of the <abbr title="reverend">Rev.</abbr> <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> T., a Frenchman, a Portuguese nobleman, and -myself, together with two or three bottles of <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">orgeât</i> and <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">eau -sucrèe</i>, and a heavy carpet bag, the property of the Hidalgo.</p> - -<p>With considerable difficulty we got past <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2 Station, between which -and <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 3, we came to a complete standstill, and no efforts on the part -of either the driver, <i>Seis</i>, or myself, could induce our poor -horses to move: they were completely done up, and as ours was the last -van of the six, there was no chance of assistance from any of our own -people. After waiting for about an hour, the doctor and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</span> the French -gentleman decided upon attempting to reach <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 4 Station on foot, which -they might easily accomplish, though being late at night, and quite -dark, it required some presence of mind. Fearful, however, that they -might wander from the track and get into difficulty, I dispatched the -Seis with them as a guide.</p> - -<p>The Portuguese declared he would stick by his carpet-bag which -contained all his valuable property, and we two, therefore, made what -service we could of the two seats of the van, and rolled up in our -cloaks, slept till near day-break; the Arab driver curling himself -up as close as possible to one of the horses which lay on the sand, -almost incapable of motion. At dawn we awoke and tried anew to get the -horses on, but with no better success than before, and at this fresh -disappointment, my companion’s slender stock of patience entirely -forsook him, and he showered upon me a volley of abuse in such -curiously broken English, that despite our unpleasant predicament, I -could not refrain from laughter. “I sal soot yous,” said he at length, -as quivering with rage, he unlocked his carpet-bag to put his threat -into execution; and I think it very possible that he would have let the -dawning day-light into me, had I not assured him, through the medium -of my equally broken Italian, that in putting<span class="pagenum" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</span> me out of the way he -could gain nothing, and lose all chance of saving himself; that should -the Bedouins come down on him, they would be sure to appropriate his -carpet-bag, and perhaps carry him off as well. By degrees I managed -to convince him, that instead of blubbering like a child, it would be -more expedient to aid me in devising some means of locomotion, by which -we might reach the next Station. Making a bundle of all the cloaks -which had been left in the van, I slung them and the carpet-bag across -one of the leaders, flinging my prayer-carpet over the whole by way -of a saddle. My ferocious Portuguese was thus tolerably mounted, and -sending with him the Arab driver, on a second horse, to show him the -way, I bade him “good speed,” and particularly enjoined him not to omit -sending me some assistance on arriving at the Centre Station. This he -promised faithfully to do, although I afterwards found, he had abused -me like a pickpocket, on finding himself once more in safety.</p> - -<p>I was now left to the quiet enjoyment of the empty carriage, and a -bottle of the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">eau sucrèe</i>, left behind by the Frenchman. Upon -a portion of the latter, and one or two limes which I had in my -pocket, I made a sort of breakfast, and was thinking of composing -myself to sleep, by way<span class="pagenum" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</span> of shortening the weary hours which must -elapse before assistance could reach me, when I was startled by -the sound of voices. Looking out, I saw two Bedouins approaching, -on dromedaries, to whom, when they came up, I at once explained my -unpleasant position, soliciting their aid to set me once more a-going. -There was, fortunately at this time, a very good feeling existing -between our people and such of the Bedouin tribes as frequented this -portion of the desert, as it was to them we looked for the supply of -camels to convey the mails and baggage between Cairo and Suez, paying -them according to an established tariff, varying with the price of -provision. I had, therefore, no sooner explained to them who and -what I was, than the good fellows dismounted, and drawing from their -saddle-bags a feed of chopped straw, which they saturated with water, -I very soon had the satisfaction of seeing my two jaded horses on -their legs again. To myself they administered a few hearty whiffs of a -<i>chibouque</i> which wonderfully animated me, and then, putting our -shoulders to the wheel, we succeeded in moving a turn or two ahead. -Having fairly started me,—my two friends, stoutly refusing any offer -of remuneration,—gave me a parting blessing, and sent me on my way -rejoicing.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</span></p> - -<p>I did not reach <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 4 Station until near two in the afternoon, when I -found the <i>Seis</i> coming to the rescue with a pair of fresh horses. -<abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> T. and the Frenchman had arrived safely on foot, and had been -taken on in another van, whilst the Portuguese was sleeping off the -fatigues of his ride in one of the bedrooms above. I called him down to -partake of some refreshment, and at three o’clock, we again pursued our -journey, reaching Suez at midnight, and becoming on the way, the best -friends imaginable.</p> - -<p>Having some business of importance to transact for <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Raven, I had -no time to take any rest in Suez, and therefore, set off almost -immediately on my return to Cairo. It was Christmas eve, and the night -proved unusually cold, whilst I found it impossible to keep off the -wind, which blew steadily through the open cart, piercing the ample -folds of my <i>bernous</i>. On we jogged through the dark, the weary -Arab fast asleep on his driving seat, bobbing his head to the measured -creak of the springs; that, and the jingle of the harness, being the -only sounds which disturbed the silence of the desert. Warming my inner -man with a spoonful of brandy, I threw myself into the bottom of the -cart, and giving my slumbering jehu an apparently accidental poke in -the ribs to recall him to his duty, courted some short repose.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</span> We had, -however, reached a portion of the desert, which one would think ought -more properly to have belonged to Arabia <i>Petrea</i>, so covered is -it with large round stones. Every now and then a wheel would come in -contact with one of these, giving us a shock sufficient to drive the -breath out of us, and recalling me from pleasant dreams of roaring -fires and Christmas cheer, to a chilly sense of my uncomfortable -position at the bottom of the cart, with the wind whistling through -every crevice. Being however considerably fatigued, I again relapsed -into an unquiet slumber, which gradually subsided into a complete state -of repose, as we exchanged the stoney track for the fine hard sand. I -slept long and uninterruptedly, until I was suddenly aroused by a shock -which had well nigh thrown me out of the vehicle. Raising myself, I -looked out and missed my only companion, the driver. The shaft horse -had fallen over the body of a dead camel, and had brought the other -down with him, whilst poor Hassan had been pitched clean off his -perch, and was picking himself up with many lamentations. I scrambled -out in front as well as I could, to assist him in getting under weigh -again, for our contiguity to the carcass was anything but agreeable. -Fortunately nothing had been broken, and after a delay of ten minutes -or so, we were jogging on as<span class="pagenum" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</span> before, although both of us were now -thoroughly awake. A good supper awaited us at <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 6 Station, and as I -had to perform half the journey with the same horses, I turned for a -few hours into bed.</p> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="img006"> - <img src="images/006.jpg" class="w75" alt="THE DEAD DROMEDARY" /> -</span></p> -<p class="center caption">THE DEAD DROMEDARY.<br /></p> -<p>Christmas-day broke as brightly and almost as frosty as in old England, -but where was I to look for the compliments of the season? Certainly -not from the old cook who brought me my coffee in the morning. -<em>He</em> didn’t know the day of the month, nor the month of the year, -nor his own age, nor anything else, except that it wasn’t Rhamadān, -nor <i>high Nile</i>, the only two epochs <em>he</em> had been taught to -identify, so I wished myself a merry Christmas and a happy new year, -and all sorts of things, and pre-pictured the odd sort of cheer I -should find at <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 4 to make merry upon, when I should halt there for -my dinner. I was destined, however, to be agreeably disappointed, for -on my arrival at the outer gate, I was hailed with a shout of welcome -by an old friend from Alexandria, one T——, of the Peninsular Company. -Leading me in triumph to the kitchen, he pointed to a goose which was -frizzing and spitting at the end of a cord suspended from above, whilst -a Maltese cook was chopping onions at a side table. In honour of the -day, we next rescued from a cobwebby corner, a dusty bottle or two<span class="pagenum" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</span> of -Champagne, and prevailed upon Mrs. S. to make us some pancakes, and -thus provided, we sat down to what we considered an excellent dinner, -and although the goose had been grubbing about in the sand only an hour -before, and the Champagne was all “Walker,” we pronounced them both -faultless.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XII">CHAPTER XII.</h2> -</div> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>INFLUX OF TRAVELLERS—PROVISION STORES—THE PRESERVED “ROUND”—NEW -YEAR’S-DAY—MELANCHOLY OPENING OF NEW YEAR—VISIT TO THE PYRAMIDS—OLD -SELIM—A MOONLIGHT WALK—THE SPHYNX AND GERMAN SAVANS—ASCENT OF -CHEOPS—THE INTERIOR OF THE PYRAMIDS—UNCEREMONIOUS INTRUDERS—TRIAL -OF SKILL—A CRACK SHOT.</p> -</div> - - -<p>I reached Cairo the following morning, and thus ended my engagement -with Messrs. Waghorn and Co. On resigning my office, I was gratified -with a flattering testimonial from <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Raven, and an invitation to -consider the hotel as my home, so long as I might incline to remain -in Egypt. Being as yet quite undetermined what to do, I accepted his -very kind offer, occasionally resuming my accustomed seat in the little -office, and rendering what assistance I could, in expediting the mails -and passengers. There was a good deal of business also, consequent -upon the almost daily arrival of parties bound on a visit to Upper -Egypt; and not only were all our own boats put in requisition, but -many more were hired for the excursion from Boulac and other places. -These latter, we were always compelled to sink for some<span class="pagenum" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</span> days before -they were fit for the reception of any civilized beings, to drive out -the cockroaches and other vermin, with which they were infested; and -as the temporary owners of these little craft, were naturally desirous -of showing off to advantage, in the eyes of such of their countrymen -as they would fall in with during their voyage, they sometimes went -to considerable expense in having them newly decorated with gaudy -arabesques, and quaint patterns, in the brightest colours.</p> - -<p>Each boat sailed under a different flag, and a pattern card of such -flags as were already up the Nile, was hung in the long room of the -hotel, so that each succeeding adventurer might vary his device. For -some weeks, the inn appeared as if converted into a sort of wholesale -provision warehouse, such ransacking was there of stores and cellars, -in quest of the necessaries to furnish the travelling <i>cafass</i> -of each party. Great was the draw upon the bottled-ale department, -and Messrs. Guiness and Bass, certainly owe a large debt of gratitude -to old father Nile, who has so wisely tempered his waters with a mild -aperient quality, as to place medicine-chests at a discount at the -cataracts, and force even the teetotal traveller to slake his thirst in -beer.</p> - -<p>Preserved provisions of all sorts were dragged from the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</span> cob-webbed -recesses under the stairs, where they had lain for many a long -year, and the entrance hall was strewed with hermetic legs of pork, -giblet-soups, and stewed breasts of veal, with every thing else -in the culinary calendar. Among the red tin pots which contained -these hidden delicacies, I found one of unusual size, of which the -“<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">etiquette</i>” proclaimed the presence of a “round of beef.” Now, -it was seven months at least, since I had taken a cut at anything, at -all resembling a genuine “round,” and as this pot was the only one of -its species, and certainly had no business among the lesser fry, I -carried it to Raven. He had not, as it happened, ordered our dinner for -that day, and it was therefore settled <i>nem con</i>, that we should -dine off the round as soon as it was cooked, <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> A—— being invited to -join us, and share the delicacy. With hammer and chisel, I proceeded to -make a breach in the well-soldered top, and drew blood in the shape of -a jet of savoury juice, which saluted my face and shirt-front. “There, -there,” said Raven, “don’t waste the liquor; call the cook, and let him -transfer all to the stew-pan, a quarter of an hour’s simmering will -do.” We sat down to table, and smacking our lips, awaited the arrival -of Nasr, who made his appearance just as the doctor had finished -whetting his knife.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</span> Never shall I forget the look of bewildered -surprise depicted upon the countenances of my two companions, as Moosah -set down and uncovered the dish. There was the “round” certainly, -but alas! “<i lang="la" xml:lang="la">quantum mutatus ab illo</i>:” a thing like a Norfolk -biffin greeted our astonished gaze, floating in a sea of mouldy gravy. -Nasr hardly knew whether to regard it as a joke, or some species of -foreign delicacy, with which he was previously unacquainted. As for -ourselves, we waited until the cook had prepared us some dish not quite -so <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">recherché</i>, whilst we all agreed, that although the “round of -beef” might have been <em>potted</em>, it certainly had not been very -well <em>preserved</em>!</p> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="img007"> - <img src="images/007.jpg" class="w75" alt="THE ROUND OF BEEF" /> -</span></p> -<p class="center caption">THE “ROUND OF BEEF.”<br /></p> -<p>New Year’s-day came in due course, but although Raven, on hospitable -thoughts intent, had gathered all his English friends around him, our -enjoyment was very much saddened by the alarming illness of Mrs. H——, -an agreeable young countrywoman, in whom we were all much interested. -With death, as it were, at the door, it was scarcely possible that the -guests assembled in the long room should indulge in any feeling of -hilarity, and thus, although the cheer was ample and excellent, and -there was abundance of everything calculated to promote conviviality, -our New Year’s dinner passed off in gloom and silence. As for myself, -I was suffering so<span class="pagenum" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</span> acutely from an attack of rheumatism, that I was -glad to retire long before the rest, Bell, who was also on the sick -list, bearing me company. The death of our poor friend, occurred early -in the morning, and more suddenly than any of us had anticipated. I -spent many hours in the house of mourning, to assist in performing the -last melancholy duties. The body was consigned to the grave the same -afternoon, in a Greek place of burial, near to Old Cairo, the mourners -following in two of our desert carriages, drawn by eight white horses -at a full trot. The <abbr title="reverend">Rev.</abbr> R—— L—— read the burial service, and -before dusk, the whole of the mournful ceremony was over, and we had -returned to our homes. Poor H—— felt his bereavement so severely, -that he could never be persuaded to return to his own deserted hearth; -and his house, which formed a part of the Company’s premises, was -afterwards fitted up for the accommodation of such travellers as could -not obtain room at the hotel. As such, a portion of it fell to my lot, -and I remained there until the period of my quitting Cairo.</p> - -<p>Being now, as it were, an idle man, I resolved upon making my -long-thought-of visit to the Pyramids, and had no sooner communicated -my intention to Furner, who was staying for a few days at the hotel, -than he volunteered to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</span> join me. <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Raven, for some reason or other -was unable to accompany us, but we had in his place an English -gentleman, who held a government appointment in Egypt.</p> - -<p>Mounted on the best donkeys we could select, and followed by a train -of attendant Arabs, loaded with the necessary provender, we quitted -the hotel late in the afternoon, and rushing at a hand gallop through -the narrow streets, and quaint-looking gardens of the suburb, reached, -in less than half an-hour, the banks of the Nile, at Fostât, or Old -Cairo. Those bound to the Pyramids of Ghizeh, usually cross just above -the Island of Rhoda, where the current, owing to the great breadth -of the river, is not so strong as to render navigation difficult. A -flat-bottomed boat conveyed us to the opposite shore, landing us, -donkeys and all, at the little village of Ghizeh. Here we laid in a -stock of fruit, such as limes, dates and bananas, and swelled our -cortége by the addition of two or three ragged-looking fellows, who -persisted in following us, to help us over the various canals and dykes -with which our path was intersected by the late inundation of the Nile.</p> - -<p>It was dark when we left the village, and gained the open -country beyond, and it required constant care on the part of our -self-constituted guides to prevent our donkeys from<span class="pagenum" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</span> stumbling into -the wide cracks which stretched across our path. We had many dykes to -ford, our animals being easily persuaded to take to the water, though -we eventually came to a <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">bonâ fide</i> canal, which at first sight -seemed to present an insurmountable obstacle to our further progress. -We all mechanically drew bridle on the high shelving bank, gazing -into the dark-looking stream below, with any thing but pleasurable -feelings, and here we made a forced halt, whilst a scout ran off to -ascertain if there was any other spot at which we could more easily -effect a crossing. Not finding any such, one of our guides stripped -himself and waded in, and it was some consolation to find, that at -the deepest part, the water barely covered his shoulders. Seeing that -there was no way of escaping a partial wetting, I divested myself of -my nether garments, which I rolled round my gun and carried in my -hand, and holding tight on by his top-knot, got safe across upon the -shoulders of the tallest Arab of our party, sending him back for my -companions. In this way we all reached the opposite bank with but -little inconvenience, the donkeys swimming over after us, but as our -saddles were soaked, and we ourselves somewhat chilled, we performed -the remainder of our journey on foot, reaching the tomb in the -neighbourhood<span class="pagenum" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</span> of the Pyramids about ten o’clock, just as the moon was -rising.</p> - -<p>Old Selim had already retired for the night, but a shot fired from one -of our guns gave him notice of our approach, and as we came to the -bottom of the steps which lead to his hermitage, he was lighting up -for our reception. The rock upon which the chief Pyramid appears to be -based, crops out of the sand in the form of a gigantic step,<a id="FNanchor_13" href="#Footnote_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a> and in -its face are several caverns, partly excavated, I believe by Colonel -Vyse, which serve in the present day for the dwelling of one or two -Arabs, and have been rudely fitted up as resting places for travellers.</p> - -<p>Selecting the most commodious of these chambers, which, in addition to -a low stone divan round three of its sides, boasted also of a tortuous -hole in the roof by way of chimney, we got old Selim to light a fire of -dried sticks and charcoal, and spreading our mats upon the floor, were -quickly in enjoyment of an excellent supper, for which our nocturnal -ramble had secured us a hearty appetite. Cold fowls there were, and -pigeons galore, as well as piping hot potatoes, which we drew from out -the embers. Thanks to our fair purveyor at the hotel, our cafass was -abundantly furnished,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</span> and we found on inspection that there was no -need to be so chary of our stock of meat and brandy, as to refuse a -restorative to some of our dripping escort, who stood shivering at the -door of the cavern whilst we were taking our meal.</p> - -<p>Hitherto, neither Furner nor myself had seen the Pyramids, having been -prevented by the extreme darkness of the night. Now, however, the moon -had illumined the far-off Nile and the desert beneath us with a flood -of brilliant light, which tempted us from our chimney corner, and -ascending accordingly the last broken flight of steps leading to the -summit of the rock, old Cheops and his two satellites burst upon our -view. The angle nearest to us presented a tapering line of fantastic -shadows, as the broken masses of stone caught the bright moonlight, -the northern face of the Pyramid appearing from the contrast to be -thrown into darkness, looking cold and gloomy, whilst the shadow cast -by the enormous mass, undulated over the uneven sand in the foreground, -and was lost far away in the desert. Beyond, as if guardian of the -gigantic wonders around him, lay the Sphynx, crouched like some monster -watch-dog, and turning his back most contemptuously upon a large party -of German savans, who had pitched their tents within the very sweep of -his tail. These gentlemen, in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</span> their inordinate thirst after knowledge, -have grubbed holes in all directions, and with the exception of the -three Pyramids, have turned nearly every thing topsy-turvy. Even the -Sphynx has been partially undermined in the hunt after hieroglyph, and -a splendid specimen has been exposed which is expected to throw some -light upon the unknown tongue. At the time of our nocturnal visit to -their bivouac, the literati had retired to rest, but hearing voices, -a sentinel protruded his head from the tent and challenged us in -<i lang="de" xml:lang="de">Hoch-Deutsch</i>, a language about as familiar to most of our party, -as the hidden one of the Pharaohs. Managing, however, to prove to his -satisfaction, that we were neither enemies nor thieves, the head was -withdrawn, and we returned to our own sleeping-place.</p> - -<p>We were out before sunrise in the morning, and after the usual and -<em>now</em> necessary cup of coffee, commenced the ascent of the -Pyramid of Cheops, the first and highest of the three, and the only -one whose summit is easily attainable. Yielding to a common error, I -resolutely resisted all offers of assistance on the part of the Arabs -who accompanied us, but I had not scaled more than half-a-dozen of -the lower steps, before I was glad to call three sturdy ruffians to -my aid, one at either hand, and the other pushing behind.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</span> In this -way we reached the half-way resting-place, which when viewed from the -ground, appears close to the top. Here we halted a minute or two to -take breath, and then again pushed upwards. The dexterity displayed -by my guides was really wonderful, and although, as I used but little -exertion myself, I must have taxed their assistance to the utmost, -they never made a false step, nor paused to deliberate where they -should plant their feet. Being early morning, the stones, which are -breast-high, were slippery with the dew, and many an awkward stumble -should I have made, but for the care of my faithful rear-guard, who -hoisted me from one course to another, and over the sharp angles of the -stones, with the greatest ease and good-will, putting out his knee or -back as a stepping-place, whenever a block of unusual size presented -itself.</p> - -<p>Anon we reached the summit, an area of rather more than thirty feet -square, and we now discovered that our toil had been thrown away, -in-so-far as the enjoyment of an extended view was concerned. A thick -mist obscured the distance, and left little to attract the eye, save -the course of the Nile, and the tracts of land which were still under -the influence of the inundation. These formed a silvery network, -lighted up by the rising sun, and assisted the eye in embracing the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</span> -enormous expanse of country commanded by our elevated position. Cairo -lay as it were, close at hand, although obscured beyond the power of -recognition by the misty vapours which rose from the river. On the -south, the site of old Memphis and the adjacent Pyramids of Sakhara -were distinctly visible. Whilst immediately beneath us, the two lesser -Pyramids of Ghizeh towered upwards from the plain, from amid a confused -jumble of tombs and ruins.</p> - -<p>The uneven surface of the summit is completely covered with names and -dates, each succeeding visitor deeming it necessary to leave some -record behind him. This custom, which obtains more among the vulgar -of our own nation, than with any other, is here adopted by travellers -from all corners of the earth, and the renowned <i>Mezzofanti</i><a id="FNanchor_14" href="#Footnote_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a> -himself, would feel at a loss to identify some of the outlandish -characters which are cut in the crown of old Cheops.</p> - -<p>As we rested ourselves, water was brought to us by Fellah children, who -for the uncertain chance of obtaining a few <i>paras</i>, will make -the toilsome ascent of the Pyramid, in the wake of a party, laden with -their dripping <i>goolahs</i>. We found their offering sufficiently -well-timed, for the sun was<span class="pagenum" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</span> now high above the horizon, and blazed -upon us with such right good will, that we were glad enough to commence -our descent. This is not to be accomplished without much caution, as -one unlucky slip might prove fatal, and therefore, the aid of the Arabs -is again called into requisition. As we neared the bottom we turned off -to the left, and reaching the opening which conducts to the interior of -the Pyramid, we lit our candles, and consigned ourselves to the care of -the guides.</p> - -<p>It is difficult, without reference to sectional views, to form any -clear idea of the construction of such of the interior as has been -explored, but there are few who have not studied with interest, and -must therefore remember, the description given by Belzoni, of his -remarkable discoveries. One after the other, and stooping down to avoid -the low roof, we threaded a passage of considerable extent, inclining -gradually downwards. This seemed as if cut out of the solid rock, -and presented a polished appearance, from the contact of innumerable -shoulders and elbows. The dust raised by our feet, and the heat and -smoke of the torches, annoyed us exceedingly, and nearly suffocated me, -who happened to be one of the hindermost. Before long, we reached a -more open space, where we could stand upright, and eventually<span class="pagenum" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</span> gained -a chamber of large dimensions, which is supposed to be the very centre -of the Pyramid. It contains a huge uncovered sarcophagus, long since -rifled of its contents. The walls appeared perfectly black, coloured -probably by the accumulated smoke of torches. Over this are four other -chambers, access being only obtained to them by small steps of wood, -let in at one of the angles of the wall. As many of these appeared to -be wanting, whilst others were loose or broken, we retraced our steps -without venturing to explore these upper regions.</p> - -<p>On emerging again into daylight, we presented a ridiculous appearance: -the heat had been so great, that the perspiration literally ran off us, -streaking the soot that had been deposited upon our faces. Our clothes, -too, were covered with dust, so that our <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">ensemble</i> partook both -of the miller and the sweep. Our guides now informed us that we had by -no means seen all, and that a well, and sundry subterranean passages -had still to be explored. I was already so nearly choked with the lack -of air and the bad odours, that I declined their kind offer to bury -me a second time, and left the honour to my companion, awaiting his -reappearance on the shady side of the Pyramid. His torch, however, -dropped before he had proceeded two hundred<span class="pagenum" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</span> yards, and he and his -guide were compelled to grope their way out again, as well as they -could, without having seen anything.</p> - -<p>As we approached our resting-place of the preceding night, we became -aware, from the unwonted noise of many Arabs and donkeys, together with -an occasional hearty laugh, echoing from the cavern below, that some -arrival had taken place during our absence at the Pyramid. This proved -to be the case, and we found a party of our countrymen very coolly -commencing an attack upon the breakfast which had been prepared for -ourselves, by old Selim. Being in no mood to put up with any unwelcomed -interference, we ejected the new comers without ceremony, although -we afterwards relented in their favour, on discovering that by some -mistake, they had left Cairo almost unprovided. Hearing that two of -their party intended going on as far as the Pyramids of Sakhara, I -volunteered to bear them company, leaving my companions, to whom a two -nights’ absence would have been inconvenient, to return again to Cairo.</p> - -<p>Our breakfast over, we set to work to clean our guns, in readiness -for any stray sport we might fall in with by the way. To a comparison -of our various arms, succeeded the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</span> usual boast of their excellent -qualities, each of course thinking his own gun the best. This led to a -trial of skill, and a beer-bottle having been placed in a conspicuous -position on a point of rock, we blazed away for a considerable time, -without any visible effect, for as the shot was a long one, the -bottle was only to be broken by being struck exactly in the centre. -Old Selim had been silently watching us at our sport, and thinking -that he might possibly like to take his turn with the rest, I offered -him my carbine, a choice <i>Wesley Richards</i>. Pushing it from him -with the greatest contempt, he dived into one of the caverns, and -produced a curious-looking implement, eight feet long, like an enormous -pea-shooter, the barrel being bound to the stock in a dozen or more -places, with brass wire, and having a flint lock of most primitive -workmanship. The appearance of both Selim and his weapon, was so very -<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">outrè</i> and ridiculous, that we could not suppress our laughter, -and as none of us could believe that such a tool would stand the shock -of a charge of powder, we instinctively got away as far as possible, -when we saw it deliberately poised in the act of taking aim. After an -interval of profound silence, came the click of the old lock, and a -slight flash, then another interval, and a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</span> sharp report, the bottle, -to all appearance, remained untouched, and in spite of the quiet, “fi -fi,”<a id="FNanchor_15" href="#Footnote_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a> of the old man, we were about to indulge in a second laugh at -his expense, when one of the donkey-boys brought it down from the rock, -and we found two clean round holes in the very centre of the widest -part just under the neck. Old Selim’s dexterity was rewarded with a -full flask of good powder, one of the most acceptable offerings we -could have made him.</p> - - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_13" href="#FNanchor_13" class="label">[13]</a> One hundred and fifty feet above the level of the -surrounding desert.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_14" href="#FNanchor_14" class="label">[14]</a> The learned Romish Cardinal, remarkable for his knowledge -of languages, speaking and writing no less than twenty-one.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_15" href="#FNanchor_15" class="label">[15]</a> “It is, it is.”</p> - -</div> -</div> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XIII">CHAPTER XIII.</h2> -</div> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>THE VILLAGE OF SAKHARA—SHEIK’S HOUSE—THE BRICK -PYRAMIDS—MUMMIES—THE SACRED IBIS—RETURN TO CAIRO—AN AGREEABLE -BILLET—PREPARATION FOR A VOYAGE—DISAPPOINTMENT—A PARTING—THE -LAST JOURNEY ACROSS THE DESERT—A DILEMMA—BEDOUIN ARABS—NO. 4 -STATION—DEPARTURE FROM CAIRO—DINNER AT MR. L.’S—ALEXANDRIA.</p> -</div> - - -<p>Sakhara, within a short distance of the ruins of ancient Memphis, is -about fifteen miles beyond the Pyramids of Ghizeh, and as we had not -started until after mid-day, it was evening by the time we reached -the village. The only place of entertainment, if indeed it can be so -styled, is at the house of an aged Sheik, who accommodated us for a -trifling gratuity, with four walls and a ceiling. The only thing which -could pretend to be an article of furniture was a rough old table, -whose legs were stuck tight into the mud floor. Here we deposited our -cloaks and <i>liarfs</i>,<a id="FNanchor_16" href="#Footnote_16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a> and then repaired to the house-top, -where the old Sheik was plucking the two freshly killed fowls which -were to serve for our supper. His daughter, a comely girl of fourteen, -with a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</span> pair of eyes that might almost have resuscitated a mummy, -rendered doubly attractive as they were, by a judicious application of -<i>kohl</i> at the lids, concocted a mess of <i>mish-mish</i>, over -a charcoal fire, and seemed delighted at the avidity with which we -devoured it, for our long ride had produced a most enviable appetite. -Our meal over, we smoked and talked until one by one our Arab hosts had -disappeared, and we were left to the enjoyment of our mud divan. It -was, however, long ere sleep deigned to visit us. We were besieged by -a legion of fleas and musquitoes, whilst bats came wheeling in at the -open windows, scraping our faces as they skimmed over us.</p> - -<p>We were up with the daylight, and mounting our donkeys, trotted merrily -through the palm-groves on to the desert. The Pyramids of Sakhara stand -among a sea of ruins; the ground is cut up and excavated in every -direction, and the discovery of hitherto unopened tombs is of constant -occurrence. We passed one of these on our way to the chief Pyramid, -and as the old Arab who was grubbing his way in, was most anxious that -we should take a peep, we slid down the sand to the entrance, and -wriggled ourselves through on our backs, into a chamber about twelve -feet square, from which the sand had been removed to a depth<span class="pagenum" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</span> of -four feet. Here we all lay in profound darkness, until our guide had -struck a light, and we could then perceive that the walls were covered -with hieroglyphs, and bi-coloured frescoes, bearing an appearance of -extreme freshness, the lapse of time having failed to diminish their -brilliancy. We gazed and wondered, but feeling that this was indeed the -pursuit of knowledge under difficulties, inasmuch as we all lay gasping -on our backs, half-buried in sand, and almost choked with smoke, we -made as hasty a retreat as the mode of egress would allow, bestowing -a few paras on the old Arab, and cheering him with the assurance that -he might eventually arrive at something valuable, if he should escape -burying himself alive in the attempt, a consummation which a trifling -sand-slip might at any time effect.</p> - -<p>The Pyramids of Sakhara differ from those of Ghizeh, both in shape, and -in the material of which they are composed. When viewed from a short -distance off, their appearance is anything but graceful, as the sides, -instead of tapering gradually to the apex, are carried upwards about a -third part of their height in a perpendicular direction, and are then -rounded off towards the top. They are built of brick or clay moulded -into blocks, and sunburnt, and though<span class="pagenum" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</span> it seems hardly fair to assert -this to be a perishable material, after having stood as it has, the -lapse of so many centuries, it is certain that it is fast crumbling to -dust under the rude finger of time.</p> - -<p>We made a halt at the entrance on the south side, formed by a breach -rudely excavated in the brick-work, at a depth of several feet below -the level of the surrounding sand. There being nothing in the interior -to repay the trouble of a long crawl upon hands and knees, we rested -awhile among the ruins at the entrance, and opened our wallets. Whilst -refreshing ourselves, one of the guides who had quitted us to visit -and rifle a neighbouring tomb, brought us, carefully poised upon his -head, a well-conditioned mummy. For this relic we paid two piastres, -and amused ourselves by carefully unrolling it, but no sooner did our -employment become known, than mummies came pouring in upon us from all -quarters, and we had some difficulty in making our escape from this -novel and unpleasant market. As we were leaving the place, a large fox -made his appearance close to us. We gave chase immediately, but he -took to the Pyramid, which he mounted in good style, and then, coolly -turning round to look down upon us, took refuge in some crevice, and -was lost to us altogether.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</span></p> - -<p>The tombs wherein the mummied ibis is found, lie about half-a-mile -north-east of the Pyramids, and are curious, and easily explored. -“<i lang="de" xml:lang="de">Potstausend!</i>” was our involuntary and pardonable exclamation, -as the light of our torches fell upon, and illumined the countless -thousands of earthen vessels containing the sacred bird. The pots -stand on end, layer upon layer, and on bringing some into daylight, -we found each to contain an ibis, (“<i lang="la" xml:lang="la">in medio tutissimus</i>,” of -course,) carefully enveloped in cloth, the long bill turned down upon -the breast, and the whole crumbling to dust on exposure to the air. The -pottery is very brittle, the mummy having probably been encased in its -mould of damp clay, and then rolled into shape, and deposited in the -pit. Bringing away one or two as mementos, we turned our backs upon -Sakhara, and as the sun was low when we quitted the caves, had barely -time to reach Cairo before nightfall, by a road close to the bank of -the Nile, rather more circuitous than that by the Pyramids of Ghizeh.</p> - -<p>On returning to my house, I found billetted upon me, a gentleman from -Calcutta, who was on his way to Italy, intending to take a long tour -by way of recreation. We soon became intimate, and I found P——n a -most agreeable companion, though I was not destined very long to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</span> -enjoy his society. Hearing Bell and myself discussing a proposal which -had been made to us some time before, to undertake a journey through -Abyssinia and the Galla country, with a view, if possible, to throw -some farther light on the rise and course of the White Nile, P——n -could not rest until he had been received into the expedition as a -volunteer, and being a fine well-built man, capable of great fatigue, -and a good horseman withal, he promised to be an acquisition to the -party. The perils of the journey, and the chances of ever returning -from so comparatively unexplored a region, having been duly weighed, it -was at length finally resolved upon, and as a great many presents would -be necessary to ingratiate ourselves with the ruling powers of such -states as lay on the line of our intended route, we paid a visit to -Alexandria. Here we laid in a stock of guns, sword-blades, red cloth, -powder, caps, &c., and other commodities of various kinds, sufficient -to load four mules. It happened, however, at the very last moment, as -it were, that I was prevented from taking my part in the enterprise, -by the receipt of letters, which threatened to call me immediately -to England. To say that I was disappointed, would but ill express my -feelings on the arrival of these (<em>then</em>) unwelcome letters, -although I have since been induced<span class="pagenum" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</span> to regard the interruption of my -plans in the light rather of a providential interference, for, worn-out -as I was with the tortures of incessant rheumatism, I could scarcely -suppose myself to be in train for an undertaking of such a nature.</p> - -<p>All that I could do, therefore, was to assist the departure of my -friends, by seeing them safely across the desert, for which purpose <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> -Raven lent us a van, the baggage going as usual upon camels. P——n -rode a noble horse, which he had purchased in Cairo, and was now about -to abandon, being unable to take it with him, and not liking to dispose -of it. In this dilemma it was confided to the care of <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> A——, -whose property it had originally been. We journeyed easily along, -going all the way with the same horses, and stopping at each Station, -making excursions among the hills in quest of gazelles, which were -sufficiently abundant, though extremely shy and wary.</p> - -<p>On arriving at Suez, we put up at the house of a Jew merchant, until -we could hear of some boat going down the Red Sea, possessing suitable -accommodation for the party, and we had not been forty-eight hours in -the place, before a messenger brought us news of a good boat about to -sail for Jeddah, and this opportunity was at once embraced<span class="pagenum" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</span> by the -travellers, who were anxious to be on their way. Our last evening -together was occupied in adjusting instruments, and regulating watches -and time-pieces. The various presents and ammunition were all repacked -in suitable forms, and in the smallest possible compass, whilst a -great store of eatables had to be laid in for the sea-voyage; P——n -resolutely refusing various things in the form of delicacies, which the -well-intentioned Mrs. —— of the hotel pressed upon his acceptance, -declaring that he would burthen himself with nothing which he could -possibly do without, a maxim which many travellers would do well to -profit by.</p> - -<p>I shall pass over our leave-taking, which was more <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">triste</i> than -such occasions commonly are, from the extreme uncertainty of our ever -meeting again. I saw them on board of the Red Sea boat, where they -spread their mats under the shelter of the raised deck, among many -other travellers bound to the southward, some of whom sat calmly -smoking, buried up to the neck, and almost concealed by their bales of -merchandise and provender, while others less accustomed to the perils -of the deep, were now prostrating themselves on their prayer-carpets, -invoking Allah to send them propitious winds. Having paid to my friends -a last and parting greeting, I returned to the hotel lonely and -disspirited.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</span> Sounds of merriment which reached me as I approached the -divan-room, seemed so very uncongenial to my feelings, that I turned -to the square to select a dromedary for my luggage, consisting of one -solitary carpet-bag, and having saddled P——n’s horse, which he had -requested me to leave with <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> A., I turned my back upon Suez.</p> - -<p>Evening was setting in as I passed the well, and I had a long and -weary jog in the moonlight, to <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 6 Station, where I was refreshed -by turning into bed. Having no cause for undue haste, and not fearing -the excessive heat, to which I was now accustomed, I did not leave the -Station until ten the following morning, having previously instructed -my Bedouin to come on after me to <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 5, where I would wait for him. -The day was beautiful in the extreme; not a single cloud obscured the -vast expanse of blue above and around, whilst a light breeze from the -westward gently stirred the air. Deep in thought, I trotted leisurely -onwards, paying but little attention to the course taken by my steed, a -want of precaution which I soon had reason to regret. I was recalled to -myself by the unwonted sight of a quantity of herbage, somewhat dry and -sunburnt, it is true, but still sufficiently green to excite wonder in -the desert, where vegetation is but scarce. This extended far<span class="pagenum" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</span> and wide -around me; a tuft here and there, with an interval of sand between. -I had strayed from the track, and had lost myself, whilst my horse -also seemed to be aware that something was wrong, as he all at once -came to a full stop, and began to stare about him. Then he disturbed -the silence by a loud and prolonged neighing, which was so sudden and -unexpected that it frightened me considerably. In vain I gazed round -for some landmark which might serve me as a guide in regaining the -beaten track. Nothing was to be seen but an interminable expanse of -sand. I was now really alarmed, and my imagination busied itself in -conjuring up long-forgotten stories of travellers half-roasted by the -sun, or dying of thirst, and although I had made a capital breakfast -two hours before, I was now assailed with an irresistible longing for -water. Thinking that the natural instinct of my horse might be of -service in this predicament, I gave him the rein, and let him go where -he listed; but after a few minutes trotting about, he stopped short -with a neigh, that almost jerked me out of my saddle, and I found -myself as much as ever at a loss.</p> - -<p>It now occurred to me that if I had not strayed very wide of the route, -a telegraph ought to be within sight, and I therefore made for the -highest of the sand hills near me.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</span> Nor was I disappointed, saving that -it proved a good two miles distant. Having reached it, I ascended, -and looked in all directions for the Station, (<abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 5,) which it was -difficult to distinguish, from its close resemblance in colour to the -surrounding sand. Being now relieved from the apprehension of having -lost myself, I gazed round the horizon, in the hope of discovering the -Bedouin who had charge of my carpet-bag, which was rendered doubly -valuable, from the fact of its containing a tolerably large sum of -money in gold, and some important documents entrusted to me by P——n. -It was a long while past the hour when he should have reached <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 5, -and I felt somewhat uneasy, as I reflected that the man was totally -unknown to me, and that were he inclined to rob me, I possessed no clue -which might aid me in recovering my property. Tired and parched with -thirst, I gained the Station, and rousing the old <i>Bawaub</i>, or -door-keeper, sent him off to the Telegraph, to reconnoitre, in the hope -that his more practised eyesight might discover the truant Arab. When -he was gone, I drew the strong wooden bolt across the door, and sharing -with my horse a welcome meal of beans and water, lay down upon the -straw to sleep.</p> - -<p>I had not been many minutes in a state of forgetfulness,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</span> ere I was -roused by the clattering of many hoofs, and the neighing of horses. -Cautiously opening the door, I was surprised by the appearance of a -dozen or more armed Bedouins, who seemed equally astonished at the -presence of a Frank, and as it struck me as more than probable that -they had meditated recruiting their horses at the expense of Messrs. -Hill and Co., I saluted them profoundly, and accepting the proffered -pipe of friendship, sat down with them at the threshold, closing the -door after me, and resolved to await the return of the <i>Bawaub</i> -from the Telegraph. I had no sooner explained the cause of his absence -to my new friends, and the great trouble I was in at the loss of my -camel, than one of them asked me to describe the colour of the animal, -and the dress and turban of its rider. Having done so, he informed me -that he had seen a party answering to my description, in the track on -the other side the hills, and that he was proceeding in the direction -of <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 4. Finding his statement confirmed by the rest, I waited to -reward the old door-keeper for his weary walk, and mounting my horse, -reached the centre Station as the sun was setting, and was not a little -gratified to observe my truant camel quietly chewing the cud in the -court-yard. It appeared that the Arab also had gone wide<span class="pagenum" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</span> of the route, -and missing the appointed place of rendezvous, had made the best of his -way to <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 4.</p> - -<p>A large party of travellers by the “Hindostan” steamer arrived in the -course of the night, from Suez, amongst whom was Lord E——e, who had -passed rapidly onwards towards Alexandria: I rode in company with the -remainder to <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2, where we stayed the night. The Hotel at Cairo was -crowded with travellers, who had flocked in from all parts. Among those -from Upper Egypt, I was glad to welcome my friend M—— P——, who -seemed surprised to find me still in Cairo, and that I had abandoned -the Abyssinian journey. He had made arrangements to start off after -the others, so as to overtake them at Missouah, and had ordered from -England an enormous box of valuables to carry with him, which, after -much search, we succeeded in rescuing from a store, where it had been -deposited on its arrival. Some of his instruments were unfortunately -much injured, and from the impossibility of getting them repaired, -rendered altogether useless.</p> - -<p>I found that <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Raven had gone down to Alexandria in one of his small -steamers, and not wishing to await the chance of another opportunity, -I joined my friend D—— of the Peninsular Company, and two gentlemen -who were<span class="pagenum" id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</span> returning to England, in chartering a Nile boat for our -own use. Packing up my few valuables, and bidding a final adieu to -my Cairo friends, I rode down to Boulac, where I found my companions -all ready for a start. With a fair wind, we dropped silently down the -river, and the long evening was beguiled by a recital of some of the -adventures of M—— M——, who was fresh from Upper Egypt, and boiling -over with the latest news from Thebes and the cataracts. It would have -been better for us had we thus continued to amuse ourselves during the -entire night, for on retiring to our sleeping-places, we found them -swarming with rats and cockroaches, not to speak of the myriads of -fleas which hopped over us in all directions, nor the perpetual sting -of the not less troublesome musquitoe. It was in vain that I smoked -pipe after pipe of tobacco, the combined nuisance continued unabated, -and had I even succeeded in chasing away my tormentors, the tortures of -rheumatism would have effectually banished sleep.</p> - -<p>Early on the morning of the third-day, we reached Atféh, and were so -fortunate as to find one of our iron track-boats, going empty down the -canal. Whilst shifting our luggage, a second boat-load of travellers -arrived in our wake, and joined us. Ten miles from Atféh we came -alongside of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</span> pleasure-boat belonging to <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> L. of Alexandria, who -no sooner caught sight of us, than he insisted upon our landing at his -farm, and joining him at dinner.</p> - -<p>From the conversation maintained at table, I was led to opine that -the term of my quarantine at Malta was likely to be passed in very -agreeable company, as most of the party intended taking the next -French steamer. Among other visitors stopping at <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> L’s house, was an -English gentleman who had spent some months in a ramble through the -fertile plains bordering on the Nile. In the course of his wanderings -he had fallen in with Mehemet Ali, who, waiving all ceremony, had sent -a Janissary to invite him to a tete-a-tete dinner. Such an honour had -perhaps never before been conferred upon a Frank, in an ex-official -capacity, and was even now enhanced by the fact of the impromptu meal -being served as much as possible in the European style, at a table -on which a white cloth was spread, chairs being also placed for the -Viceroy and his guest. Between each dish, and there were many, the old -gentleman took a deep draught<a id="FNanchor_17" href="#Footnote_17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a> of the <i>sheshè</i> which stood on -the ground at<span class="pagenum" id="Page_155">[Pg 155]</span> his side, insisting that our friend should follow his -example. Agriculture formed the chief subject of discourse, the Pasha -appearing quite at home in various farming operations, for which his -guest would not previously have given him credit. With our relations -with China too, he was very conversant, blaming us strongly for -teaching the Chinese how to go to war, and confidently declaring, that -with their extraordinary talent for imitation, the rascals would, one -day or another, be turning round upon, and robbing us of India. The -repast concluded with coffee, and a pipe was handed to the Englishman, -to his no small astonishment, such being a compliment paid only to -those of the highest military rank.</p> - -<p>Our party sat talking over <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> L.’s excellent wines, until so late -an hour, that it was nearly dusk ere we returned to our boat, and we -reached the quay at Moharrem Bey, long after the gates of Alexandria -had been closed for the night. We were thus compelled to sleep in the -boat, although some of our party refused to submit to this proceeding, -until they had made trial of an expedition to the city walls, from -which they returned after an unsuccessful attempt at parley with the -sentinels on guard, in a language of which neither party understood ten -words.</p> - - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_16" href="#FNanchor_16" class="label">[16]</a> Coverlids of quilted cotton.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_17" href="#FNanchor_17" class="label">[17]</a> The word <i>ishrob</i>, which is applied to the act of -smoking, means in Arabic, <i>to drink</i>, a synonyme explained by the -practice of <i>swallowing</i> or <i>inhaling</i> the smoke, peculiar to -Orientals.</p> - -</div> -</div> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_156">[Pg 156]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XIV">CHAPTER XIV.</h2> -</div> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>THE “MINOS” AGAIN—CAFE FRANCAIS—THE ENFIELD STAGE—DEPARTURE -FROM EGYPT—CHANGE OF BOATS AT SYRA—A GALE IN THE -MEDITERRANEAN—MALTA—THE QUARANTINE HARBOUR—FORT MANUEL—INQUISITIVE -GUARDIANO—TRAVELLERS’ COLLECTIONS—SANITARY REGULATIONS AND LOW -DIET—THE PARLATORI—RESOURCES IN QUARANTINE—HAPPY RELEASE.</p> -</div> - - -<p>On inquiring of my friend Furner, at the office, I found that the -“Minos” French steamer was to start on the 7th, and that I had only one -clear day to make my final arrangements for quitting Egypt. The packing -of my few boxes was speedily accomplished, and my passport, which had -so long laid dormant, was now once more drawn forth, and sent to the -Consulate for the necessary stamps and signatures. I spent a portion of -my last evening in Alexandria at my old quarters in the English Okella, -now occupied by <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Portenier and his wife, and so thoroughly repaired -and decorated, that I should scarcely have recognised it for the same -dwelling. The improvement had, however, been entirely confined to the -interior of the house. The<span class="pagenum" id="Page_157">[Pg 157]</span> Okella and its dark-covered gallery were -unchanged, and on the outer-door of Portenier’s house, I could still -remark the red plague-seal, which, on my first arrival in Egypt, had -often caused a shudder.</p> - -<p>I could not resist the inclination, before the evening had quite -closed in, to pay a final visit to some old and well-known spots, so -I strolled through the Café Français, as yet almost untenanted, and -down its dirty stone-staircase to the back of the Okella, close to the -sea-shore. There, in its cobwebbed solitude, stood the old Enfield -stage, umwhile the pride of Glover, who little thought, as he rumbled -along to and from the Bank twice a-day, with his six insides, that his -rickety old machine was ever destined to run from Enfield Wash to the -Red Sea. Such had nevertheless been the intention of <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Waghorn in -purchasing it, and sending it out to Egypt, though if it ever get there -now, it must certainly be through the intervention of miracle.</p> - -<p>I had a long chat with Furner, who told me that he also was meditating -a change, and that he looked either towards Bombay or Calcutta as -his next location, waiting only for the transit business changing -hands, which would be the signal for his departure. He and <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Raven -accompanied<span class="pagenum" id="Page_158">[Pg 158]</span> me the next morning on board the “Minos,” where I found -Lord E. and his suite, and a good sprinkling of passengers, among whom -I recognised most of those of the dinner-party at <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> L.’s, on the -Mahmoudieh. I had just time to bid my kind friends a hearty farewell, -when the bell was heard, and we were off. I lingered to take a parting -look at the quaint windmills and low sandy shores of Iskander, and -then turned my back upon Egypt: with regret, it is true, for in that -strange land I had been kindly received and treated, and had found -friends, whose value appeared greatly enhanced now that I was leaving -them behind, and with many of whom I should scarcely ever meet again. -However, as the deck of a French war-steamer is one of the spots least -suited to quiet reflection, I made my way to the cabin, where some of -my countrymen had already betaken themselves to their sleeping-places, -as a precautionary measure against <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">mal de mer</i>. There was in -truth but little inducement to remain above, for the wind was high and -in our teeth, giving promise of an unfavourable passage.</p> - -<p>On the night of the 10th, we anchored at Syra, and were there -transferred to another boat of the same enterprise, called the -“Rhamses,” parting company at the same time<span class="pagenum" id="Page_159">[Pg 159]</span> with several of our -fellow-passengers, who were bound for Constantinople. On again standing -out to sea, the wind had increased to a gale, which tossed us about -most unpleasantly, and I shall not easily forget the appearance of -things on the morning of the 12th, when I ascended to the deck before -the breakfast hour. The hatchways closely battened down, benches lashed -together, and guns carefully encased in tarpaulin, while the pumps -were got into readiness, and an extra tiller-bar fished up from below, -looked, to my unpractised eye, like symptoms of an impending storm, -whilst our skipper, having laid aside his gold-laced cap and swallow -tails, had donned a stiff pea-jacket and indisputable sou’-wester, and -was now darting a rapid but penetrating glance at the disposition of -things aloft, as he held on to the rail of the companion-ladder. The -aspect of the sea was terrific, and I really could scarcely venture -to keep my eye upon waves, over which it seemed morally impossible -that our ship could ride. Now, the horizon would appear limited to the -compass of a few acres only, and then again, elevated upon the crown of -some gigantic sea, we seemed poised, as it were, in mid-air, surrounded -by an interminable boundless waste of waters. Our good ship struggled -gallantly with the waves, but it was evident, with all her<span class="pagenum" id="Page_160">[Pg 160]</span> puffing -and groaning, that she made no way whatever, and our captain at length -reluctantly gave the order to put about and go before the wind. This -proceeding altered things for the better: the heavy seas no longer -broke over our deck, and the severe shocks against our bows, which -had previously thrown the whole ship into convulsions, were felt less -frequently. Thus we passed the ensuing day and night, by which time the -gale had somewhat abated, and we resumed our course.</p> - -<p>On the 14th, about midnight, we espied the friendly and cheering light -of Malta, and I believe we all felt considerably grateful to find -ourselves riding in the smooth water and safety of the quarantine -harbour. We were however destined to pass another day and night on -board the “Rhamses,” as the Lazaretto was not ready for our reception, -but on the 16th, we were landed at Fort Manuel, and consigned in lots -to the care of the health officers, every three persons having a -separate <i>Guardiano</i>.</p> - -<p>The first appearance of the Lazaretto is by no means pleasing to one -who knows that he must there undergo a three weeks’ imprisonment, -but I have often heard it affirmed, and can in my own case bear -ample testimony to the truth of the assertion, that under ordinary -circumstances,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_161">[Pg 161]</span> the term of quarantine may prove a period of great -enjoyment. Of course, much depends upon the character of the persons -with whom you are associated, but it would be strange indeed, if among -the large and mixed party thus thrown together, there were not some one -more gifted than the rest with the power and will to amuse or instruct -his companions, whilst for the development of character, few places -are better situated than Fort Manuel. Our steamer’s boats landed us -and our baggage at the stairs, from whence we were escorted, by our -guardians, through a formidable sort of fortification, and across a -large quadrangle, to an opposite building, where we were shown into a -series of empty rooms, and requested to make our selection. I found one -in an angle of the building, containing an iron bedstead and table, and -no sooner had I thrown my bag upon the brick-floor, in token of right -of possession, than a functionary from below put into my hands the -price-current of the furniture-broker of the Lazaretto, who undertakes -to supply, for a trifling sum, the wherewith to furnish your chamber. -Having made my selection, I was next waited upon by the cuisinier of -the establishment, who likewise solicited my patronage. I got rid of -him by ordering dinner.</p> - -<p>The next visitation that I experienced, was on the part of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_162">[Pg 162]</span> my own -particular guardian, who having begged the key of my portmanteau, -most unceremoniously exposed the whole of its contents. My linen he -unfolded and hung on a clothes-horse, whilst from pegs in the wall, -he suspended an array of coats and trousers, giving my furnished -lodging the appearance of an old-clothes shop. Nothing escaped his -vigilance. Dressing-case and drawing-box were fished out and opened, -and the secret recesses of my writing-desk, which it almost puzzled -<em>me</em> to arrive at, flew apart as if by magic, at the “open-sesame” -of my unnatural guardian, who finished up by taking the tops off my -pill-boxes, and the stoppers out of my medicine-bottles. On visiting -some of my neighbours, I found that they had been served in the same -way, and the odd mixture of articles in an apartment called the <em>mess -(!)</em> room, which contained five or six beds, was quite laughable, -and as a museum, was perfectly unique, each individual’s private -collection giving a sufficiently good clue to his tastes and character. -There were enough of cherry-sticks and chibouques to have stocked a -cigar-divan, whilst we might easily have managed a bal-costumè with -the variety of Oriental dresses which were here brought to light. One -of our company was highly indignant, and I thought, justly ashamed of -the exposè made of a quantity<span class="pagenum" id="Page_163">[Pg 163]</span> of chippings from the glorious temples -of Upper Egypt, which had been cracked off during his antiquarian -ramble, to serve as trophies and mementos when he should regain his own -fireside.</p> - -<p>Whilst viewing his collection, we were summonsed by the sound of -the dinner-bell, and repaired to the common-hall, somewhat curious -to test the powers of the Maltese restaurateur, who was to feed us -in quarantine, at the rate of four-and-sixpence for dinner, and -fourteen-pence for breakfast. From the price of the former, we -naturally expected a substantial meal, but finding the sanitary -authorities decidedly in favour of low diet, such as weak broth with -salads and sour-krout, and no end of gherkins and beet-root, and an -appeal to the cook proving unproductive of better fare, I resolved to -send over the way to my friend Baker, of the “Princess Royal,” and -trust to his discrimination to send me something more substantial. -Nor was I disappointed; the next morning witnessed the arrival of -a well-stocked hamper, containing among other things, a formidable -“piece de resistance,” in the shape of a boiled round of beef, and -an apple-pie that excited the wonder of the whole establishment of -Quarantine officers. Some of my companions followed my example, and -thus by alternately dining<span class="pagenum" id="Page_164">[Pg 164]</span> with each other, we managed constantly -to vary our bill of fare, and get our meal at less expense than when -served by the Maltese cook, who viewed our private larder with great -indignation, and no doubt regretted having voluntarily submitted to a -term of quarantine destined to profit him so little.</p> - -<p>The Lazaretto at Fort Manuel, consists of three separate buildings, -each capable of accommodating from twelve to twenty persons, one of -these being exclusively devoted to the use of such as may be reported -under the yellow flag, or taken ill subsequent to their admission. In -our case, we came with a clean bill of health, a fact which seemed in -no way to influence the vigilance of our guardians, who never came -nearer to us than was absolutely necessary; and during the whole period -of our probationary imprisonment, treated us as though we had been -really plague-stricken. On one occasion, I was severely reprimanded for -having scattered some torn fragments of letters from my window, as, had -the breeze been sufficiently strong to carry any portion over the water -into Citta Vecchia, I should innocently have placed the whole island in -quarantine. Each particle was carefully picked up and destroyed. All -letters out were duly punctured and fumigated, and our<span class="pagenum" id="Page_165">[Pg 165]</span> converse with -visitors from the island across the double bars of the Parlatori, where -secrets of great import were necessarily confided in the loudest key, -was curious enough.</p> - -<p>On the Sabbath we attended Divine service in the church attached to the -Fort, two clergymen of our party officiating alternately, but for our -Catholic attendants there was no place of worship, from the fact, I -suppose, that no priest could be found sufficiently zealous to devote -himself to a perpetual quarantine. Morning mass, however, was not to -be neglected, and our good Catholics resorted to the only means within -their reach to secure its enjoyment. Rising one day somewhat earlier -than usual, I was surprised to observe a number of persons kneeling on -the stones at the end of the open corridor, extending along the front -of the building we occupied. As they simultaneously made the sign of -the cross, and appeared all to direct their attention to one particular -object, I soon discovered that their altar and officiating priest were -at least a good half-mile off on the opposite shore. Waiting until -the ceremony was over, I fetched my glass, and could then remark a -small chapel in the side of the rock, wherein the service had been -conducted, and from which the priest and a little crowd of devotees -were now departing. This was, indeed,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_166">[Pg 166]</span> silent worship, yet doubtless -as acceptable as though it had been offered in a gorgeous temple, -and accompanied with all the pomp and ceremony of the most elaborate -Catholic mass.</p> - -<p>Our walks and rambles in quarantine were necessarily very limited, -being confined to the ramparts and fortifications which surrounded us, -and the spacious court-yard in front of the Lazaretto. We had books -from Muir’s Library to read, and, as Murray says, “drawings to finish, -and journals to fetch up,” and these resources occupied the hours of -daylight, whilst our evenings passed away round the tea-table of one -or other of our company, either in social chat, and the relation of -bye-gone experiences, or in the enjoyment of embryo tales and poems -from the portfolio of one of our party, who has since given them to -the world. We had besides, a very amusing companion, who had been -everywhere and seen everything, and could perform the most astounding -feats in legerdemain, so that with these resources, it is no wonder if -our time passed away pleasantly enough, and that we almost regretted -an unexpected piece of news brought to us one morning by a smiling -<i lang="it" xml:lang="it">guardiano</i>. This was to the effect, that the Board of Health -had decided upon cutting short our term of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_167">[Pg 167]</span> quarantine by several -days, and that we were now at liberty. Soon afterwards a servant -from the “Princess Royal” came for my luggage, and stepping into a -gaudy-coloured little Maltese boat, I was ferried across the harbour, -and was once more at large. I made the best of my way to the hotel, -for I was conscious that my appearance was anything but calculated to -excite respect in the eyes of the Maltese signory, whom I encountered -in my passage through the town. One sleeve of my frock-coat was all -but off, to say nothing of divers rents and holes in other parts of my -dress. Boots I had none, their place being usurped by a pair of Arab -slippers, whilst my head, which had not yet recovered its legitimate -thatch, was crowned with a Fez <i>tarboosh</i>. My friend Borg, who -had kindly met me at the water’s edge, though apparently ashamed of my -acquaintance, insisted upon introducing me to a tailor, who might help -me to assume a less questionable appearance, and with the prospect of -some decent apparel on the morrow, I took refuge in the hotel.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_168">[Pg 168]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XV">CHAPTER XV.</h2> -</div> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>CHOICE OF A ROUTE—THE “ERCOLANO”—SYRACUSE—THE -ALBERGO DEL SOLE—SICILIAN COBBLER—THE EAR OF -DIONYSIUS—BEAUTIFUL GARDENS—MUSEUM—MESSINA—ANCIENT -FRESCO—TROPEA—STROMBOLI—NAPLES—“HOTEL DE NEW -YORK”—HERCULANEUM—POMPEII—STREETS—SHOPS—PRIVATE HOUSES—PROGRESS -OF EXCAVATION.</p> -</div> - - -<p>During my imprisonment in the Lazaretto, I had employed some of my -leisure time in selecting the most agreeable route homewards, for -towards England I had pretty much determined to go. My desire to -revisit Italy increased in proportion as I approached its shores, -and I determined to make the best of my way to Naples, and examine -at leisure its manifold beauties and wonders. The “Ercolano,” a fine -Sicilian steamer, touching at Messina and Syracuse, seemed to offer -a good opportunity for visiting those cities, and catching a distant -glimpse of Etna. I took leave of Malta on a beautiful evening in April. -The accommodation on board this boat was superior even to that of the -French line of packets, and I found my berth so comfortable when I -turned in about the hour of ten, that<span class="pagenum" id="Page_169">[Pg 169]</span> I soon fell asleep, and enjoyed -a night of uninterrupted rest, a gratification which the rheumatism had -long before refused me. Nor did I wake until we were ready to drop our -anchor in the harbour of Syracuse, when my friend P——s, whom I had -been so fortunate as to meet on board, came down to arouse me.</p> - -<p>The view from the deck of our ship was lovely. It was a most sultry -morning, and the landscape with its glowing sky and blue water, -positively rivalled, in intensity of brightness, the odd gummy-looking -coloured lithographs in black borders, which one meets with in all the -Italian printshops. In the distance towered Etna, faintly smoking, -whilst the yellow-looking houses of Syracuse, coming down almost to the -water’s edge, were reflected so distinctly therein, that had we stood -upon our heads, the same landscape must have greeted us. There was not -a breath of air, and the sun, even so early as eight o’clock, shone out -as though it would scorch the very fish. No wonder that old Archimedes -could set ships on fire with his burning-glasses, at half-a-mile off!</p> - -<p>We had no sooner come to a stand-still, and commenced blowing off -our steam, than there was a slight stir perceptible on shore, and -two or three lazy boatmen pulled off<span class="pagenum" id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</span> towards us. At an inn near -the shore, the Albergo del <i>Sole</i>, (for here the sun seems to -influence everything, animate and inanimate,) we found a cool room and -a breakfast, both of which were duly appreciated. But Syracuse is too -rich in antiquities, to allow of much repose in-doors during a stay -limited to twelve hours only, and therefore, though it was positive -labour to walk about, I knocked the ashes out of my pipe, and sought -the street. At the door of the inn, I found a fierce-looking unshaven -cobbler, who presented himself as a cicerone, probably finding the -<i lang="it" xml:lang="it">buona-mano</i> of travellers yield a more profitable revenue than -the stall under the windows of the “Sole.” Closing with his offer of -service, I strolled off to visit the <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">contorni</i> of Syracuse, which -abound with theatres, aqueducts and fountains, the relics of former -greatness, whilst traces of the engineering labours of Archimedes are -everywhere manifest.</p> - -<p>Perhaps the greatest curiosity of the neighbourhood is the celebrated -“Ear of Dionysius,” an excavation in the solid rock, occupying one -corner of a large quarry. It measures about seventy yards in length, -with an average height of forty or fifty feet, but was evidently at -one time much more lofty, being now partially filled up. The external -orifice is in its form something like a horse’s ear,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</span> and the sharp -angle at the top, runs along to the extreme end, where it terminates -in an opening of a yard square, leading to a chamber. Here, as the -story goes, the tyrant used to secrete himself, and feast his ears with -the groans of his victims, an assertion which our shoemaking guide -declared to be beyond dispute. Those among the Sicilians, however, who -have bestowed any thought upon the subject, conjecture that the ear -was connected with an adjacent theatre, and that its natural acoustic -properties were in some way made subservient to orchestral purposes. -This supposition, far-fetched though it may appear, will not seem so -improbable, when the relative positions of the ear and that portion -of the theatre already excavated, have been duly considered. The mere -tearing of a piece of writing-paper, is loudly echoed, and one is -really afraid to cough, in consequence of the distressing asthmatic -effects which ensue from the other end of the gallery. The noise -produced by the discharge of a sixpenny cannon is absolutely deafening, -and not only are you obliged to submit to it, but expected to pay -also for the injury sustained by your tympanum. I felt glad to escape -again into the bright sunshine, and was next conducted by my guide to -a garden, the property of some Sicilian nobleman, one of the loveliest -spots I ever set foot<span class="pagenum" id="Page_172">[Pg 172]</span> in. It lies sheltered in the bosom of an ancient -quarry, which completely encloses it, and the eye is here greeted -with rare shrubs, both foreign and indigenous, whilst the sense of -smell is regaled with the odours of flowers and tropical fruits. Ripe -lemons and citrons dangled amid the dark green foliage, and as this -little Eden was not garnished with stiff-looking pieces of painted tin, -requesting the visitor “not to touch,” we touched, handled, and tasted -to our heart’s content, of the produce of the garden, the old gardener -culling here and there for our gratification. He even insisted upon our -carrying away with us some lemons of a strange species, of delicious -flavour, the pulp being the eatable part. This was white and sweet, and -of the consistency of cream-cheese.</p> - -<p>Returning to the city, I visited a museum but recently established, -possessing already some rarities of great value. The most striking, is -a headless statue of Venus, of exquisite symmetry, dug up near some -neighbouring catacombs. I never saw so beautiful a figure. Though -carefully sought for, the head has not yet been discovered, but the -statue was considered to possess such merit, that Canova was sent -for to supply the missing portion. He died, however, before he could -execute it.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_173">[Pg 173]</span></p> - -<p>In the evening, we were again summoned on board, and another night’s -steaming brought us to Messina, where we had a similar leave of absence -from our captain. Two or three of us took a calesse, and saw some of -the curiosities of the place, but the town, noisy and bustling, and in -respect of its quays and shipping, not unlike Rouen, was soon quitted -by us for the more genial campagna, where we strolled at leisure among -the hills which rise at the back of the city, from whence the view -of the Straits and the Calabrian shore is very beautiful. In an old -convent in the suburbs, we were shown a fresco of “the Last Supper,” -bearing a striking resemblance to that of Leonardo da Vinci, at -Milan, and in precisely the same relative situation at the end of the -refectory. It is of very recent discovery, and was accidentally brought -to light by the removal of a thick coat of plaster which covered the -wall.</p> - -<p>Tropea, on the Calabrian coast, seems a charming spot, embosomed in -a little rocky valley. Here we took on board a large boat-load of -the country people in their picturesque costumes, and amongst them, -looking very much out of place, an English engineer, employed in the -working of some newly-opened mines. Stromboli, which rises from the -water like a vast cone, crowned with a perpetual wreath<span class="pagenum" id="Page_174">[Pg 174]</span> of thin smoke, -was in view a great part of the day. To pass the night below, I found -impossible, for a calm evening on the Mediterranean is productive of -too much enjoyment, to be snored away altogether in one’s berth. All -our passengers seemed alike inclined to shun the cabin, and long after -dark, we sat lounging in groups upon the deck, listening to the songs -of the Sicilian sailors forward, or watching the lights created under -our bows, as we cleaved the water. I never saw the phosphorescent -appearance to greater advantage than on this occasion. The froth -produced by our paddles was altogether illumined, and looked like a -shower of fiery sparks, whilst our wake, almost as far back as the eye -could reach, seemed to be a reflection of the milky way.</p> - -<p>Morning brought us to Naples, and I was once more landed at the -custom-house. A solitary pound of <i>Latakia</i>, the last of my stock, -was seized upon with evident avidity. I had foolishly imagined that -by making no attempt to conceal it, it might escape notice. Two of my -friends were more fortunate. They succeeded in <em>running</em> a couple -of bags, containing a dozen or more pounds, by hanging them over the -arm in their cloaks, the officers who handled their pockets omitting -to notice those garments. I put up at<span class="pagenum" id="Page_175">[Pg 175]</span> the “Hotel de New York,” close -to the quay, in preference to the more expensive houses of the Chiaja, -usually patronized by our countrymen. Two of my fellow-travellers, -one a Russian, the other a <i>brave Belge</i>, bore me company, and -we had no reason to regret our choice. Here I had the good fortune to -meet with a <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">laquais de place</i>, who could speak no broken English -whatever, and finding that his French would likewise have stood a -poor chance of being recognised in the Palais Royal, I engaged him -immediately.</p> - -<p>On the morning after my arrival at Naples, I arose with feelings -akin to those of the school-boy, to whom the pedagogue has granted a -<em>whole holiday</em>, and whose excitement at the consciousness of some -extraordinary pleasure to come, prompts him to jump out of bed some -hours before there is any occasion. I was about to visit Pompeii,—the -very idol of all my wishes, since the day, when seated in my lofty -cane-bottomed chair, I was allowed, by way of especial treat to see, -but not to touch, the curious pictures in Sir William Gell’s book. -Now, I was about to roam at will through its deserted streets, and -realize some of those feelings which I had experienced as a child, when -listening to the wondrous tales of travelled friends, or the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_176">[Pg 176]</span> more -glowing pages of some pleasant author, whose imagination has enabled us -to mix with its busy and unconscious multitudes at the very moment of -its destruction.</p> - -<p>A carriage with three stout black horses, unicorn-fashion, was at the -door of the hotel by half-past seven, and providing ourselves with -some cold fowl and Capri wine, we set off for Herculaneum, rattling -over the hard stones at a pace which would have been alarming, had our -horses been held in by any other than a Neapolitan coachman. A ride of -an hour brought us to Resina, and we alighted at the stone steps which -lead to an ancient theatre, freed only in part from the load of lava -which buried it. The sinking of a well by a peasant is said to have -led to its discovery, in the year 1713. The lad who provided us with -torches, and showed us over the place, pointed to the various spots -where such and such relics had been found, referring us to the Museum -at Naples for the farther gratification of our curiosity, and seeming -to agree with us that these interesting objects might, with equal -propriety, have been left where they were first discovered, instead -of being transplanted from the places with which they are associated, -to swell an already over-stocked collection. Such, however, has been -the fate of every moveable relic of antiquity disinterred<span class="pagenum" id="Page_177">[Pg 177]</span> at Pompeii -and Herculaneum. There is thus comparatively little left to interest -the visitor, and having strolled through the damp passages, and poked -our torches into the dark comers, we proceeded down one of the little -guttered streets of Resina, to the garden-gate, which serves as the -portal to Herculaneum. Having passed the threshold, and descended a few -steps, we stood upon the Appian Way. On each side of this, probably one -of the chief thoroughfares, the houses have been cleared of the lava, -which, like a boiling tide, flowed in upon and covered them, and the -visitor may now walk at will among the roofless dwellings of the city, -while his busy imagination vainly tries to invest them with the forms -and figures of those who trod the same stones eighteen hundred years -before. On some of the walls there are frescoes, which appear to have -retained their primitive brightness of colour, notwithstanding the -intense heat to which they have been exposed, and there are still many -beautiful pieces of mosaic in the floors of some of the houses, which, -from fear of breakage, have escaped translation to the Museum.</p> - -<p>Owing to the great difficulty and expense of removing the solid lava, -but a small portion only of Herculaneum has been laid bare, and though -it is probable that a rich store<span class="pagenum" id="Page_178">[Pg 178]</span> of antiquities would be brought to -light by further excavation, it seems unlikely that the Neapolitan -Government will go to any more expense in that way.</p> - -<p>Regaining our carriage, which had been waiting for us in the road -above, we pushed on for three or four miles, through thick clouds of -dust, to La Nunciata, catching an occasional glimpse of Castellamare -and the blue mountains beyond, whilst Vesuvius, rising from among -the cindery-looking vineyards of the rare <i>Lagrima</i>, formed the -prominent feature on our left hand. At every step, the evidences of -volcanic movement meet the eye. The foundations of the houses are of -lava, lying in huge masses by the road-side, just as they have been -rolled down from the mountain, and the carriage-way itself is so -beautifully hard, that it needs only an occasional shower to wash away -the dust, to retain it in perfect order.</p> - -<p>Arrived at the gate of Pompeii, we regained the Via Appia, and leaving -our carriage under the thick shade of some almond-trees, entered the -street of tombs, or suburb of the ancient city. Here is the house said -to have been tenanted by the wealthy Diomede, with its ground and upper -floors, and walled garden, and a capacious cellar extending round three -sides of the quadrangle. It was here that the skeletons<span class="pagenum" id="Page_179">[Pg 179]</span> of seven -persons were found huddled together in a corner, most probably those of -the females of the family, who had retreated to the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">souterrain</i>, -in the hope that they might be sheltered from the burning shower which -issued from the mountain. But the ashy rain penetrated and pervaded -everything, filtering through the crevices in the form of a fine dust, -filling up the very amphoræ, with which old Diomede, doubtless a -<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">bon vivant</i>, had plentifully stored his cellar. Farther on, are -several tombs in excellent preservation, and then passing through the -gate, we entered upon one of the chief streets of the city. The paved -carriage-way still shows the wheel-marks of former times, although -the street itself is so narrow, that it is difficult to believe there -was much passing to and fro. It seems more probable that horses and -vehicles were left at the <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">Osterie</i>, outside the gates, and that -locomotion within the city was principally confined to walking, with -the occasional luxury of a sedan.</p> - -<p>The street in which we now found ourselves, appears to have been one of -the busiest thoroughfares of the city, to judge from the line of shops -on either side, which all bear more or less evidence of the business -once carried on therein. In that of the baker, for example, who ground -his flour,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_180">[Pg 180]</span> kneaded the dough, and baked his bread in one and the same -little shop, we found the mill, the slab, and the oven. It appears, -however, that so sudden was the alarm which seized the terrified -inhabitants, that the poor baker fled with the rest, leaving his batch -in the oven, whence it was drawn after a lapse of near two thousand -years, and deposited in the Borbonico. At the counter of the wine-shop, -the print of the measure is still apparent, whilst now and then the -eye is greeted with a sign, either on the sill or over the door-way, -of callings somewhat more objectionable. Shops and private houses -stand side by side, and close to the splendid dwellings, of which the -ownership has been assigned to Sallust, Cecilius Capella, and Modestus, -may be seen the modest shop of a blacksmith, and the laboratory of a -dispensing chemist. Farther on are baths, and an academy of music, -with the house of the Edile Pansa; a hotel, the studio of a painter, -and a crockery shop. The houses of private individuals are recognized -by the inscriptions in red-letters, even now perfectly legible, whilst -the identity of the particular business carried on in the shops is -less doubtfully established by the relics continually found in them. -The Terme, or baths, are in excellent preservation, from the bason -of marble down to the leaden pipe and water-cock.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_181">[Pg 181]</span> The house of the -Fauns has been lately discovered, and a number of interesting relics -were in course of removal at the time of our visit, though it was some -consolation to learn, that the beautiful tessellated pavement, which -adorns the whole ground-floor of this building, is to remain intact. -Each of our guides carried a large wet sponge, to bring out the colours -of the mosaics and frescoes. The former, indeed, are kept sedulously -concealed by a layer of dust and broken fragments, and would entirely -escape the eye of any traveller, unaccompanied by a <i>custode</i>.</p> - -<p>Having examined the most interesting houses in the heart of the -city, we walked over an extensive tract of orchard-ground, to the -amphitheatre, which is in a state of great preservation. Here, the -range of benches appropriated to the Pompejan ladies appears to have -been the uppermost tier, as far as possible removed from the arena, and -therefore less exposed to risk from the accidental escape of any of -the animals. From the nature of the relics here discovered, it seems -probable that some spectacle was in course of performance, when the -first shower of hot ashes gave the signal for flight, though it would -appear that the danger was not so immediate, but that all had time to -make good their retreat.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_182">[Pg 182]</span></p> - -<p>On returning to the city, we paused to examine the Temple of Isis -and its oracle, a spot which the imagination of Sir E. B. Lytton has -invested with such peculiar interest, and passing into the ruins of -the Forum, we seated ourselves on some fragments of its chaste Doric -columns, and opened our wallets. Here we took a retrospective glance at -the wonders disclosed by our morning’s ramble, and fixed them upon our -minds whilst the recollection of them was still fresh. For more than -eighty years the process of excavation has been carrying on, and it -is supposed, that at the present rate of disinterment, another eighty -must elapse before the whole of Pompeii is uncovered. Not a third part, -indeed, of the ground within the walls, which are two miles round, has -yet been moved, and if the supposition be correct, that the whole of -this area is built upon, there is labour in store for many generations.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_183">[Pg 183]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XVI">CHAPTER XVI.</h2> -</div> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>THE CAMPO SANTO—CHURCHES—THE MISERERE—CURIOUS -SCULPTURE—AGNANO—GROTTO DEL CANE—FROGS—POZZUOLO—CAVE -OF THE SYBIL—HOT SPRINGS—BOILED EGGS—HOT SAND—NO END OF -PHENOMENA—BAIÆ—VESUVIUS—RESINA—THE HERMITAGE—FATIGUING -ASCENT—THE CRATER—COMING DOWN WITH A RUN—THE “MONGIBELLO”—CIVITA -VECCHIA—ROME.</p> -</div> - - -<p>I devoted the remaining three or four days of my stay at Naples to a -round of sight-seeing, resigning myself with this purpose into the -hands of my <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">cicerone</i> of the “New York.” I made frequent visits -to the Campo Santo, wishing to see whether any of the varied accounts -of the mode of sepulture there practised might accord with my own -observation. I witnessed the interment of some scores of persons, of -various ages and stations, and saw but little that could shock even a -very fastidious person. About six in the evening, the iron gates of -the walled inclosure are thrown open, and then may be seen arriving, -either in plain hearses, at a rapid trot, or on the shoulders of some -stout porter, the simple wooden coffins containing the dead. These are<span class="pagenum" id="Page_184">[Pg 184]</span> -first carried within the little chapel at the gate, where a short mass -is said, and then placed contiguous to the mouth of the particular -pit about to be opened, there being one for every day in the year. No -sorrowing relations are to be seen: they have paid the last tribute of -respect to the deceased ere the coffin had left the house of mourning, -and do not unnecessarily prolong their grief, by following the remains -to the grave. The square stone secured with mortar, which covers the -mouth of the pit, is now removed with the aid of a powerful lever, -and an attendant drops in the bodies, one by one, never omitting to -throw in after them the little wreath of flowers with which each -is accompanied. Fresh mortar is then brought, and the stone firmly -fastened down for another year; the coffins, which are again and again -to serve the same purpose, are then carried away, and the ceremony of -interment is concluded.</p> - -<p>The churches of Naples are particularly well worth visiting, though to -go the round of the whole three hundred, would require a greater amount -of patience than I possess, and I succeeded, moreover, so badly in an -attempt to hear the famed Miserere in the church of the Conservatorio, -that my sight-seeing determination received a severe check. By dint<span class="pagenum" id="Page_185">[Pg 185]</span> -of a great amount of pushing and squeezing through a dense mass of -people, I managed eventually to secure standing-room, at a considerable -distance from the choir, from which position I was soon compelled to -retreat by reason of the suffocating heat, and peculiar Neapolitan -odours, having lost nothing, except my handkerchief and the whole of -Zingarelli’s sublime composition. For a clever pickpocket, commend -me to the <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">gamin de Naples</i>, who will contrive, even in broad -daylight, to ease a stranger of every thing worth stealing. After the -loss of three handkerchiefs, I found that my only safeguard was to go -entirely without one.</p> - -<p>But to return to the churches, of which some will be found particularly -interesting in the way of pictures and valuable marbles. In the -cathedral of San Gennaro, are some matchless columns of Egyptian -granite, (covered over by the way for some purpose or other, with a -coating of stucco,) besides others of porphyry and cipollino, with -bronzes and valuable paintings. The chapel of San Severo is remarkable -for some specimens of sculpture, exhibiting a recumbent body covered -with a thin veil, so dexterously worked in marble, that the development -of the various muscles beneath the gauze is admirably managed, and -there is another figure still more extraordinary, of a man<span class="pagenum" id="Page_186">[Pg 186]</span> entangled -in a fine net. Here, the artist must have inserted his chisel between -the meshes, which come in contact with the body of the statue only in a -few places, the whole production evincing a vast amount both of skill -and labour.</p> - -<p>There is so much to see and admire in Naples and its neighbourhood, -that I hardly knew which way to turn. I had yet to visit Baiæ, and -the western shore of the Bay, whilst each time that my eyes rested on -Vesuvius, I was reminded of an additional obligation. These, however, -were scenes which I had no desire to visit alone, having always been of -opinion, that the pleasures of travelling are materially enhanced by -agreeable society, and though it may be all very pleasant to shoulder a -knapsack, and walk a hundred miles on end with no other companion than -one’s own thoughts, the charms of lake and mountain are not the less -fully appreciated when shared by an intelligent fellow-traveller. Such -was my friend P——s, upon whom I stumbled one evening in the Toledo, -and a proposal on his part to visit Baiæ on the morrow, was hailed by -me with pleasure.</p> - -<p>The carriage of my host of the “York,” was again put in requisition, -and quitting Naples, <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">di buon ora</i>, we rattled<span class="pagenum" id="Page_187">[Pg 187]</span> merrily through -the Grotto of Posilipo, and then taking the dusty road to the right, -reached the simmering lake of Agnano. Close by its shore is the famed -Grotto del Cane, where of course we paid the fee, entitling us to -reduce an unlucky hound to a state of syncope. Indeed, the poor animal -seemed so habituated to the cruel infliction, that he sneezed and -kicked himself back into life in the most good-humoured way imaginable, -and ran away with a big bit of bread in his mouth to keep up his -spirits until the arrival of some other party. The gaseous vapour, -which has the same effect upon the nasal organs as when a bottle of -soda-water is swallowed too hastily, rises to a height of eighteen -inches above the floor of the little cavern. The poor dog is firmly -held by the feet within the gas until he has ceased to move, and is -then laid upon the grass outside, where the fresh air speedily restores -him. The ground in the immediate neighbourhood of the lake is alive -with small frogs, which jump about by hundreds at every foot-fall, and -appear to thrive wonderfully well upon the noxious vapours with which -the region abounds. Here are also some vapour-baths of great efficacy -in chronic cases, and I believe they are much resorted to.</p> - -<p>Returning to the road, we reached anon the ancient<span class="pagenum" id="Page_188">[Pg 188]</span> Pozzuolo, or place -of wells, romantically situated upon the shore. The ruins of the city -may be clearly observed beneath the blue water of the bay, which would -seem to have encroached upon it suddenly, whilst on the other hand the -earthquake has not been idle, the whole of the town having been more -than once laid in ruins. Here are the remains of an amphitheatre of -prodigious dimensions, with ruined villas, bridges and temples. As we -passed through the town, our vehicle was besieged by a clamorous posse -of young ruffians, laden with antiques of all sorts, both genuine and -modern, who clambered upon the steps and wheels, and got up behind and -before in their anxiety to relieve us of a few carlini in return for -their terra-cottas. Our coachman’s whip was the only argument they -would listen to, and having thus got quit of them, we skirted once more -along the Gulf. Each fresh turn in the road disclosed views of the most -enchanting character, saving where the beauty of the landscape was -marred by the unsightly presence of an immense gang of <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">forzati</i>, -or galley slaves, working at the repairs of the roadway. On our right -arose the bare volcanic hill of 1538, with the vine-covered mountains -embosoming the once dismal Avernus, now famed for the excellence of its -trout, whilst sky-larks,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_189">[Pg 189]</span> and others of the feathered tribe, “warble -o’er” it with impunity. Beneath us, Procida and Ischia, rising from the -blue and motionless bosom of the bay, glittered in the noon-day sun.</p> - -<p>A little bye-road leads to the lake and the Grotto of the Sybil, a spot -deservedly celebrated by Virgil, in <em>his</em> day, but now infested -by a lot of lazy fellows, who gain their livelihood by showing the -subterranean chambers of the rock. Here we fell in with a party of our -fair country-women, who for the last half-hour had been splashing about -under-ground, in the brawny grasp of these uncouth ruffians, stifled -with the smoke of torches, and sorely frightened at the echoing sound -of the dark waters through which they had been hurried. It is needless -to add that they had <em>seen</em> nothing, and indeed their report of -the expedition was so very far from tempting us, that we regained our -carriage with what haste we could.</p> - -<p>Within a quarter of a mile of this spot, in the face of a high cliff -overhanging the road, is another remarkable cavern, forming the -entrance to a series of hot springs. Owing to the heat pervading -the several corridors, which increases in intensity the farther you -penetrate inwards, we found it impossible to get any great distance, -but the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_190">[Pg 190]</span> old fellow in charge, who seemed to have sweated himself -down almost to a skeleton, took in with him a couple of raw eggs, -and returned with them very nicely boiled! not at all appearing to -mind having undergone a similar process in his own person. We agreed, -however, that the poor old man had well (not to say <em>honestly</em>) -earned the trifling present we gave him, and begging him not to expose -himself to the risk of catching cold, by showing us out into the -scorching sun, we left him to his eggs and <em>dripping</em>. And now we -fondly hoped that we had seen the last phenomenon of this sulphureous -district; but no, we were again mistaken. On making our exit from -Nero’s ovens, we were escorted by a party of juvenile exhibitors -down to the margin of the sea, where, forcing our hands through the -cold water into the sand beneath, we found <em>it</em> also at boiling -point! This, with the distribution of a few <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">grani</i>, closed the -entertainments of the morning.</p> - -<p>On reaching Baiæ, we deemed it advisable to make a call at its little -road-side Osteria, where we lunched on a queer-coloured omelette, and -some Capri wine, our table being spread in a little raised gallery -outside the house. From hence the view over the bay was very lovely, so -much so indeed, that we were loth to quit the spot, and decided upon<span class="pagenum" id="Page_191">[Pg 191]</span> -finishing our day’s ramble in exploring the ruins hard by, and climbing -the hills above us, for the sake of a more extended prospect. In the -cool of the evening we returned to Naples.</p> - -<p>Being now anxious to proceed towards Rome, I determined that the last -night but one of my stay at Naples should be devoted to the ascent of -Vesuvius. Three of us quitted the city at dusk in a carriage, which -was engaged to take us to Resina, and there await our return. Old -François bore us company, in order to take care of our provisions -and over-coats, which are both essential to the comfort of the -undertaking. By the time we arrived at the little hostelry, where our -vehicle was to give place to a set of saucy mules, it was quite dark, -and the disposition of the little party, as we equipped ourselves by -torch-light in the court-yard, formed a striking picture. We took -plenty of guides, more perhaps than were necessary, but there is -nothing like being upon the safe side, and sufficient light is a great -desideratum whilst picking your way in the dead of night, over the -execrable road worn amid the broken masses of lava and scoriæ, which -cover the base of the mountain. A few hours of weary riding, of which -the monotony was only broken by the stumbling of some<span class="pagenum" id="Page_192">[Pg 192]</span> sleepy guide, -and consequent extinction of his torch, or by our own exclamations -of surprise and wonder, as a more than ordinary shower of stones was -discharged with a rushing noise from the still distant crater, brought -us to the little halting-place, called the Hermitage. The night was -bitterly cold, and there was a considerable breeze stirring, so that -we hailed the welcome shelter with a shout of pleasure, and jumping -off our mules, were soon extended on the homely couches in its little -supper-room, whilst François busied himself in boiling a dozen or -two of eggs. I was so tired by the rough jolting pace of the animal -that had fallen to my lot, that I was no sooner seated than I sank -into sleep. My companions, however, had possessed themselves of the -visitors’ book, replete, as usual, with all manner of absurdities, and -their merriment effectually spoilt my nap.</p> - -<p>Our supper finished, we again summonsed our guides, who armed us each -with an iron-shod pole, and thus equipped, we commenced the long -up-hill walk, which leads to the more immediate base of the mountain. -It required extreme caution to avoid coming in contact with the blocks -of broken lava, and as we neared the steeper ground, we discovered -that we had a severe task to accomplish, the flaring beacon above -shedding upon us, at intervals, a faint bluish light,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_193">[Pg 193]</span> reminding us -most unpleasantly of the amount of labour we had still to undergo. -My guide now took hold of one end of the pole, bidding me to hold on -tight at the other, and in this way we scrambled over a mile or more of -outrageously large cinder-heaps, among which I pitched and floundered -about in a way that threatened to dislocate every joint in my body. All -this while we were rapidly ascending (barring the many falls we got,) -and daylight began to break upon us as we approached the outer edge of -the crater. Hearing a sort of joyous shout from the advanced guard of -our party, I made a desperate stagger onwards, and fell suddenly into a -charming little gully between two enormous cinders. Never did rest upon -a feather-bed appear more welcome, than did mine at that moment upon -the rugged spot where I had fallen. My attentive guide now approached -his flaring torch to within six inches of my face, and finding that I -was in a state of profuse perspiration, he insisted upon putting me on -my legs again, promising me a fair time for recruiting a little further -on. To have suffered me to lie there, would indeed have been a mistaken -kindness.</p> - -<p>I now joined the rest of my party, and found that we were at the -summit, or in other words, on a level with the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_194">[Pg 194]</span> internal surface of -the crater, leaving only the edge of the basin to be surmounted. The -glorious spectacle which now greeted us, was one which we must ever -remember. From the cone, there poured forth a continuous stream of -fire, with every now and then a terrific discharge of red-hot stones, -bursting upwards with a fearful rushing sound. This treble, if I may so -term it, was accompanied by a rumbling bass like thunder, from the very -bowels of the mountain, forming a combination of sounds wonderfully -grand and awful. The red-hot masses of lava fell for the most part -upon the outer surface of the cone, from which we were distant about a -furlong, and rolled downwards into the crater. We were of course upon -the windward side of Vesuvius, a precaution always borne in mind by the -guides. As it was, some of the stones fell very near us, whenever the -wind shifted to an opposite quarter, which was often the case, and at -such times, their clatter as they fell upon the surface of the crater, -was sufficiently alarming.</p> - -<p>As soon as daylight had fairly dawned, we ventured upon the sea of -hot lava which lay before us, sufficiently encrusted and cooled at -the surface, to admit of our doing so with safety, though the placing -of one’s feet required care, as any slip<span class="pagenum" id="Page_195">[Pg 195]</span> on our parts might have -been attended with unpleasant consequences. Every now and then we -had to cross some narrow fissure in the molten lava, produced by the -contraction of the surface. Into these we thrust our poles and sticks, -which came out again in a blaze. Being disgusted with the heat and -sulphurous odours which assailed us on all sides, we were meditating -a return to the point from whence we had started, when a change in -the wind sent a shower of combustibles so alarmingly near us, that we -retreated as quickly as we could, scrambling and falling about among -the uncouth masses of lava, in a manner that under other circumstances, -would have been highly amusing. In the present case, however, <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">sauve -qui peut</i>, seemed the order of the day, and no one looked back to -help his less fortunate companion.</p> - -<p>At the edge of the crater we sat down to rest ourselves, preparatory -to once more descending to the level of our fellow-mortals. I had, in -my ignorance, supposed that we should return by the same path which -we had taken in making the ascent, and was therefore surprised when -our guides conducted us to the top of an immense cinder-shoot, looking -like the combined siftings of all the cinders we had ever seen. Having -deliberately given us our instructions,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_196">[Pg 196]</span> guide <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1 made a sort of -plunge forward, and with one single gigantic stride, cleared a space -of some twenty feet of ground, and repeating this novel species of -step, was presently out of hearing. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2 followed in his wake, and -we after him, and once fairly started, pulling up was a difficult -matter. After near a quarter of a mile of this work, I became aware of -something wrong in the region of my boots, which had long been filled -with fine cinders, productive of much uneasiness. There was no help -for it however. Downwards we all went, with a gradually accelerating -motion, and I was beginning to calculate on the certainty of losing -my equilibrium in the course of another dozen strides or so, when I -was suddenly brought up hard and fast against the broad back of one of -the guides, and congratulated by my companions upon my safe arrival. -Now for the first time I was able to look upwards, and certainly was -greatly astonished at the quantity of ground we had traversed in -so short a space of time. Here we emptied our shoes of the cinders -accumulated in our progress, but as for myself, I was spared half -the trouble of this operation, by finding the ample calf of one of -my Maltese boots, lodged at my knee-cap, having been separated from -the corresponding portion, now transformed into<span class="pagenum" id="Page_197">[Pg 197]</span> a shoe, by the -unfair ordeal to which it had been subjected. As we had descended by -a more distant part of the mountain, our walk to the Hermitage was -proportionably longer, and I believe we were all heartily wearied -by our nocturnal expedition. The mule-ride back to Resina seemed -interminably long, and it was only after a warm-bath and an interval -of refreshing sleep, that I could overcome the effects of my unwonted -exertions.</p> - -<p>Having engaged a berth in the “Mongibello” steam-packet, for Civita -Vecchia, I got my passport properly signed, and repaired on board, -taking care to see that my portmanteau was carefully consigned to -the hold. This done, I stole away to my berth to secure a nap, and -avoid the bustle and confusion of starting, and was already busily -dreaming of cinders and lava, when I was rudely awakened and summonsed -before a party of police on deck, to answer to my name, which had been -repeatedly called without eliciting any reply. This formality over, I -turned in once more, and at ten o’clock the next morning found myself -in the harbour of Civita Vecchia. At the Dogana here, my effects were -<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">plombés</i>, and again had my passport to undergo a visè, whilst my -pocket contributed its mite to the coffers of his Holiness the Pope.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_198">[Pg 198]</span></p> - -<p>I found a diligence about to start for Rome, and had just time to -swallow a hot omelette, before squeezing myself in with the conductor -in front. This was a highly amusing fellow, and although I could -scarcely put together ten words of Italian, we managed to keep up a -tolerably animated conversation. He was particularly pleased with -my Egyptian sword, which he insisted on keeping constantly drawn, -flourishing it now and then out of the open window, to intimidate -certain imaginary banditti, at times skirmishing with the driver aloft, -who showed fight with his whip-handle. About dusk, we reached the Holy -City.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_199">[Pg 199]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XVII">CHAPTER XVII.</h2> -</div> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>THE ROMAN DOUANE—THE HOTEL CESARJ—MEDITATIONS—THE CAFFE GRECO—ITS -OCCUPANTS—MORNING WALK—WINE CARTS—THE RUSPOLI—BELLAMY’S -TOILET—PREPARATIONS FOR THE CERVARO—THE ROBING-ROOM—CHOICE -OF A DRESS—THE LIVERY STABLE—PORTA MAGGIORE—THE TORRE DEI -SCHIAVE—A GRAND REVIEW—THE QUARRIES—INCANTATION TO THE SYBIL—THE -DINNER—RETURN TO ROME.</p> -</div> - - -<p>I could scarcely venture to believe, as I stepped out of the diligence -in the court-yard of the dogana at Rome, that I had at length reached -the spot, which of all others I had most wished to visit, the golden -land of my earliest imaginations. My first impulse was to rush in the -dark to <abbr title="saint">St.</abbr> Peter’s, and I should possibly have acted upon it, had -not a civil functionary belonging to the customs, suddenly dissipated -my romance, by a request that I would hand out my keys and open my -<i lang="it" xml:lang="it">baullo</i>. After a loose inspection of my worldly effects, my new -friend shouldered the portmanteau, and begged to know the place of my -destination, a question somewhat difficult to answer, inasmuch as I -was unacquainted with the name of any hotel, and for all I<span class="pagenum" id="Page_200">[Pg 200]</span> knew, with -any individual of my own species in the city. Seeing that I hesitated, -my <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">douanier</i> hinted that the “<i>Cesarj</i>” was at hand, where -I might at least stay until I found one more suited to my taste. To -the “Cesarj” therefore, we went. Arrived in my little bed-room, <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">au -quatriéme</i>, and fatigued with the dusty journey in the diligence, I -rang the bell and ordered some coffee. “We furnish nothing,” said my -landlord, who had himself obeyed the summons, “but a bed and breakfast, -and the house does not boast of a kitchen, but at the corner of the -square hard by, the Signor will find a good <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">trattoria</i>.” The old -adage of “when at Rome,” &c., occurred forcibly to my remembrance, and -although somewhat disposed to grumble at a mode of treatment so unusual -in a hotel, I groped my way out to the eating-house, resolving to seek -a more hospitable roof on the morrow.</p> - -<p>In the digestive interval which followed my meal, it occurred to me, -that I might as well organize some plan for the best employment of -the time I intended to devote to Rome and its neighbourhood, for at -this time I had no idea that my stay would be so long protracted, as -afterwards proved to be the case. That I ought, in fact, to look round -at the various hotels, in the hope of falling in with the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_201">[Pg 201]</span> name of some -quarantine acquaintance, or quondam fellow-traveller, who would bear me -company, and give me the benefit of his experience. I have a peculiar -aversion to the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">valets de place</i>, who infest large inns, and an -antipathy also to being seen gaping about in a foreign town, with a -rosy “Murray” in my hand, which, albeit the <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">ne plus ultra</i> of -hand-books, entails upon every unfortunate possessor who may appeal to -it in the crowded highway, a host of petty annoyances, and in Italy -more especially, stamps him at once <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">Inglese</i>, fair game for all -kinds of imposition. Much of this might be avoided by the adoption of -some less conspicuous binding: one of my friends, who had taken the -precaution to ink his covers all over, attributed thereto the saving of -some considerable quantity of petty cash, during a two months’ sojourn -in Rome.</p> - -<p>But to return. As I sat musing in the <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">trattoria</i>, I recollected -with much satisfaction, that an artistical friend, whose acquaintance -I had made in Egypt, had mentioned a certain Caffé Greco, as a likely -place to find him in, on my arrival in Rome, and as it was not much -past seven, I resolved immediately to begin my inquiries. One of -the waiters showed me the way to this retreat, which is in the Via -Condotti, and appears a favourite place of resort of artists<span class="pagenum" id="Page_202">[Pg 202]</span> of every -nation. Making my way through a thick smoke to the bar or counter, I -inquired if one Bellamy, an Englishman, were within, and was answered -by an affirmative nod of the head, from a tall man engaged in filling, -with black coffee, some two dozen or so of small cups. This operation, -though simple enough, was performed with much dexterity by a rotatory -motion of the arm, without breaking the continuous stream of liquid -Mocha, which flowed from the enormous tin biggin. In accordance with -the motion of the man’s head, which pointed to an inner room, I found -myself in an atmosphere still denser than that I had just quitted, -whilst my ears were assailed with a furious cross-fire of high Dutch. -From this I emerged into a third room, where, though a smoker myself, I -almost gasped for breath. Here I could see nothing whatever, save the -light of a lamp suspended from the ceiling, which looked dim and red, -like the sun on a foggy morning in London, but a rapid conversation in -the mother-tongue, betokened the presence of sundry and divers of my -countrymen, whose forms gradually developed themselves, in proportion -as my eyes became accustomed to the atmosphere.</p> - -<p>Touching the waiter, as he passed me in one of his journeys to and -fro, I asked for coffee and a cigar, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_203">[Pg 203]</span> proceeded at leisure to -contemplate the group before me. Had it not been for the use of my -native language, I should certainly not have guessed that I was in -the company of Englishmen, inasmuch as they were for the most part, -dressed in a costume varying <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">in toto</i>, save as to the nether -integuments, from any I had previously seen. The chief speaker, who -seemed to be expatiating upon some article in Galignani, of which -he held a copy in his hand, was shrouded, like the rest, in a loose -paletôt of black velvet, partly open at the sleeves, and relieved by -the least glimpse of Irish at the arms and collar. A handsome beard -and moustache, black as the coat, left but little of his features -visible, and their obscurity was still farther increased, by a black -hat of felt, with a brim of extraordinary dimensions, slightly turned -up in front, but partaking essentially of the form of a sou’-wester -behind. The rest of the company were dressed pretty much in the same -way, the countenance of each seeming to take its cast from the beard, -of which there was a variety of all forms and colours. By the time I -had made my observations, I discovered that my friend Bellamy was not -of the party, and entering into conversation with some one near me, -learned that he was not likely to make his appearance that evening. -Having obtained the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_204">[Pg 204]</span> number of his address in the Via Felice, I paid my -score and returned to the hotel, where I dreamed about black beards and -broad-brimmed hats, till a late hour in the morning.</p> - -<p>The sun was high, when I rose and threw open my window, and the blue -sky and freshness of the air seemed so inviting, that I decided upon -dispensing with my host’s promised breakfast, preferring rather to -take my chance at some neighbouring <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">caffé</i>. Leaving the inn, I -shortly emerged into a square, that of the Colonna, and was more than -half inclined to refresh myself with some of the cooling fruits and -drinks, displayed around the fountain in front of the column, under -tasty little arbours of evergreens. Now I entered the Corso, already -filled with busy people passing to and fro, and noisy enough with its -throng of jingling hackney carriages and wine carts. These latter are -very picturesque looking vehicles, and the carrettieri seem perpetually -under the influence of their own juicy freights, so lazily do they -dangle their legs, and loll away their days, each under the shade of -his own vine or fig-tree.</p> - -<p>Sauntering onwards, I discovered the Caffé Ruspoli, once a palace, -where, in a cool garden, amid lemon-trees and fountains, I enjoyed -my cream and Galignani, and had<span class="pagenum" id="Page_205">[Pg 205]</span> moreover, the good fortune to make -acquaintance with a countryman of the name of Savill, who, upon -learning that I was a stranger in Rome, politely offered to shew me -some of the most interesting parts of the city. My new friend wore the -sombre dress of, and looked every inch an artist, and had already been -several years resident in Rome, speaking its language with singular -fluency. He seemed indeed, so thoroughly <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">au fait</i> at all that -was going on, that I hailed with pleasure the prospect of a more -intimate acquaintance with him, and having finished our breakfast at -the Ruspoli, we proceeded together to the lodgings of Bellamy in the -Via Felice. The house in which our friend had taken up his quarters, -was of great extent, and elegant external appearance, and I was rather -disappointed, on ascending the first two portions of its well-like -stone stair-case, to observe that each floor was subdivided into many -small sets of chambers. To every door was attached the card of the -occupant, though there was barely sufficient light for deciphering -the faint microscopic italics of the present day. Our announcement -of “<i lang="it" xml:lang="it">amici</i>,” at that belonging to Bellamy, was responded to by -him in person, half-dressed in so odd a style, that he seemed in the -act of rehearsing for a masquerade. He had managed to squeeze himself -into a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_206">[Pg 206]</span> pair of light blue pantaloons, garnished with a double row -of bright steel buttons, whilst his legs were encased in enormous -jack-boots, armed with long spurs. Seeing our look of surprise, he -hastily completed his toilet with a somewhat tarnished lace jacket -and courier’s cap, regarding himself at the same time with evident -satisfaction, in a small glass upon the table.</p> - -<p>Savill now appeared suddenly to remember what had hitherto -unaccountably escaped him, that it wanted but two days to the -<i lang="it" xml:lang="it">Cervaro Fest</i>, or annual fête of the Roman artists, and I was -speedily informed that my arrival in the Holy City at the present -moment, was most opportune, inasmuch as I should be enabled to assist -at that ceremony,—“We’ll go immediately,” said Bellamy, “and put -your name down on the list, and can then make choice of a dress,” for -it seemed pretty fully decided upon that I should go in costume. My -scruples, on the score of not being sufficiently qualified to join -the body were speedily set aside by the assurance that my entrance -fee of five pauls, would effectually silence any questions that might -be raised. Repairing, therefore, to the Caffé Greco, I was introduced -to the president of the fête, a German artist of celebrity, who very -politely informed me, upon receiving my contribution,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_207">[Pg 207]</span> that I was -thereby entitled to as much wine and cold sausage as I could swallow -in one day. The Germans appear the chief movers in the affair, and -the <i>Cervaro Fest</i> originated with a few individuals of that -nation, who, years gone by, had a custom of repairing annually to some -ancient quarries in the neighbourhood of Rome, where, with their wine -and <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">salame</i>, they would pic-nic on the grass, and sing some of -their native melodies, returning to the city at night-fall. By degrees, -however, their party increased, and being joined by artists of other -nations, eventually became so numerous, that it was deemed necessary -to elect a president, and frame rules for the preservation of order. -A club was also established in connexion with the Cervaro, called the -Ponte Molle,<a id="FNanchor_18" href="#Footnote_18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a> which held its meetings once a week, and now forms one -of the most amusing of the attractions of modern Rome. But more of this -hereafter.</p> - -<p>On quitting the Caffé Greco, a walk of half-an-hour brought us to a -species of robing-room, in the immediate neighbourhood of the Argentina -theatre, where Carnival and stage costumes of every description are -let out on hire.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_208">[Pg 208]</span> I found it difficult to make a selection, but at -length, from among a heap of miscellaneous rubbish, managed to rescue -a dress, which the meanest bog-trotter would have scorned to accept. -So far gone indeed was it, that the shopman refused to make any charge -for its hire, merely expressing a wish that I would return it if did -not absolutely fall to pieces. It cost me a good two hours’ work in -my bed-room, at the “Cesarj,” to sew on such buttons as were wanting, -and stitch up some of the rents in the coat and knee-breeches, besides -having to convert some old boots into a pair of high-lows, which, with -the addition of a well-battered hat, imparted a very satisfactory -degree of finish and reality to my <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">tout ensemble</i>. The waiter, -who entered my room whilst I was rehearsing, seemed to imagine that -I was some fellow in the act of plundering the hotel, for I had some -difficulty in restraining him from giving the alarm. When satisfied of -my identity, he burst into such an exaggerated fit of laughter, that I -was quite convinced my appearance was all I intended.</p> - -<p>The next day Bellamy accompanied me to the English livery-stables, -as it was necessary that I should provide myself with some sort -of a horse. My companions having previously picked out the best -they could get, I found that<span class="pagenum" id="Page_209">[Pg 209]</span> I must either put up with a wretched -animal, discarded by the rest, or go on foot. As its appearance was -not ill-suited to the character I had assumed, I paid an earnest of -half-a-scudo to the ostler, and begged him to give the poor beast an -extra feed or two, by way of fitting him to undergo a day’s work.</p> - -<p>The following morning, that of April 27th, proved bright and sunshiny, -although sundry suspicious-looking clouds, which floated across the -small patch of blue sky commanded by my bed-room window, seemed to -threaten an occasional shower. It was striking seven as I finished my -toilet, and throwing my long bernous cloak over all, save the ragged -hat, I soon reached the stables, where I found Bellamy waiting for me, -already mounted. We halted for a few minutes at a small shop in the -Via Felice, to swallow some coffee, and then made the best of our way -outside the city-walls, to the Porta Maggiore, where a numerous crowd -of idlers attested the presence of something out of the common way. As -we came up, the president of the Cervaro, in the midst of a group of a -hundred or more artists, was in the act of ascending his triumphal car, -a four-wheeled waggon of the country, drawn by two milk-white oxen, and -ornamented with evergreens, and appropriate banners and emblems.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_210">[Pg 210]</span></p> - -<p>We now formed into something like a procession, the president taking -the lead, at a pace more suited to a funeral than an occasion of -rejoicing. On getting into motion, the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">coup d’œil</i> was extremely -interesting, and of a very amusing character. It was with difficulty -that we could get on at all, so hemmed in were we on all sides, by the -crowds of Romans and country-people who had come to see us start. We -made a sort of forced march to the Torre dei Schiavi, a ruined temple -at a couple of stones’ throw from the road, and nearly three miles -from the gates. Here we consigned our horses and donkeys to the care -of some ragged urchins, who had purposely preceded us, and had just -time to avail ourselves of the partial shelter afforded by the ruin, -when a heavy shower came on. Until now, breakfast had been overlooked -by the majority of us, so a quarter-cask of red wine was broached, and -slices of <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">prosciutto</i>, or uncooked ham, with hard-boiled eggs and -salame, were handed round by certain of the artists, who had enrolled -themselves as waiters for the day, thinking it on such occasions, by -no means derogatory to wait upon the rest. The appointment, in fact, -appears to be much coveted, probably either from the novelty attending -“office,” or from the knowledge of a most convenient proximity to the -provision-baskets. Cigars<span class="pagenum" id="Page_211">[Pg 211]</span> and pipes were now kindled, and some of the -Germans sang in unison an illustrative song, composed by the president, -printed copies of it being at the same time handed round for such as -chose to accept them.</p> - -<p>The shower being now over, there was a grand review of the mounted -forces, these on donkeys forming the front rank, with the horsemen -behind. We were put through sundry evolutions, which were utterly -confounded by the stupidity of the former, which sidled, backed, and -turned tail, and caused the greatest confusion, whilst many of those on -horseback got awkward falls, from the collisions that were continually -taking place. My animal, which was so very lame, that he had appeared -to possess only three legs when I left the stable, had, now that he was -a little warmed, recovered the proper number. The unwonted bustle, and -strange colours around him, had made him so wild and unruly, that I -lost all command of the bridle, and unwillingly cut some extraordinary -capers under the very nose of the president, who was issuing as -gravely as he could, his orders of “<i lang="de" xml:lang="de">recht</i>, <i>links</i>, -<i lang="de" xml:lang="de">züzammen</i>,” &c.<a id="FNanchor_19" href="#Footnote_19" class="fnanchor">[19]</a> A sudden command of “<i lang="de" xml:lang="de">vorwarts</i>” seemed -far more to his taste, as he instantly turned tail and bolted for the -road, where he pulled up of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_212">[Pg 212]</span> his own accord. The others came up shortly -after, and we then formed into something like order again.</p> - -<p>As the cavalcade trotted along, I had leisure to scrutinize the various -groups, and a more motley collection of outrè figures, I think I never -saw. First, came a huge French gen-d’arme, on a most diminutive donkey, -armed with a tin breast-plate and backpiece, and a long wooden sword, -with which ever and anon he belaboured his unwilling beast. Next to him -a Bedouin Arab with naked legs, followed by a nondescript in a cocked -hat and a blouse. Now, a well-mounted Spanish grandee rushed past, -resplendent with foil and tinsel, giving chase to a ragged Irishman, -with tattered hat and uplifted shillelagh, whose manner of sitting his -white pony, told of other things than the brush and pallette.</p> - -<p>A half-hour’s gallop across the Campagna, after quitting the high road, -brought us to the Grottoes of the Cervaro, or deserted quarries, from -which the stones of the Coliseum were obtained. They form romantic -caves, and serve admirably for the annual picture of the artists. The -adjacent meadow was already dotted with parties, who had preceded us -to witness our arrival: carriages were drawn up in a line, the horses -untethered, as at a race-course,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_213">[Pg 213]</span> whilst locomotive wine stalls, with -their ample flasks of sparkling <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">rosso</i>, and tables laden with -coarse bread, and the never failing salame, added to the gaity of the -scene. Giving our horses in charge to the ragamuffins in waiting, we -followed our president in great solemnity, into one of the very darkest -of the caves, where a sort of opening incantation to the <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">genus -loci</i> was to be delivered. The cavern was speedily filled, and it -was with some difficulty that I managed to secure a footing on the -loose rubbish that partially filled the opening. In the back-ground was -a large cauldron of burning spirit, which betrayed the extent of the -cave, shedding a dull light upon the faces of the innermost spectators, -and revealing the presence of many ladies. Silence being enjoined, the -incantation, in German, was audibly and impressively read, and its -conclusion followed up by a loud report as of thunder, when the spirit -of the cave appeared, and stirring up the contents of the cauldron, -suddenly vanished in a blue flame. And now broke upon the ear one of -those delightful German melodies, at its commencement, low, searching, -and solemn; but wild and gleeful at the end. The effect it produced was -extraordinary, and not to be easily forgotten. A few startling sobs, -were, ’ere half uttered, drowned in a loud hurrah,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_214">[Pg 214]</span> and in another -minute, we had all dispersed in different directions to prepare for -dinner.</p> - -<p>For this part of the ceremony, an airy but covered portion of the -quarry was selected, and the ground thickly strewed with fresh-gathered -leaves, the benches and tables being rudely formed of loose masses -of stone. Each man seated himself where he listed, and wine, and -cold viands were plentifully supplied by the attendant ganymedes. -Our repast was soon over, for our seats were none of the softest, -and we were glad to rise as soon as etiquette would permit, and eat -our salad standing. This was served, ready-made, and carried round -in large trays, like those used by our butchers in London, and as no -forks were allowed us, each man put in his hand, and helped himself -to an oily mouthful as it passed him. Then followed speeches from the -president and others, in honour of the occasion; some healths were -drank and responded to, and the strangers present invited to partake; -and then our leader, with a mallet and chisel, proceeded to record on -the smooth face of a rock, already bearing the mementos of many former -years, the date of the present “Olimpiade.” This seemed the signal for -a general dispersion, and the whole body emerged into the sunny fields -above, to amuse themselves as best they<span class="pagenum" id="Page_215">[Pg 215]</span> might. All sorts of running -and jumping matches were engaged in by such as felt inclined, and an -extempore horse-race was got up by some of my countrymen, but as I did -not care to place too much confidence in my (barely) <em>four</em>-footed -acquaintance of a day, I tightened his girths, and took the road -towards Rome, greatly amused by the “Cervaro.”</p> - - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_18" href="#FNanchor_18" class="label">[18]</a> So called from the bridge over the Tiber, about a mile -outside the Porta del Popolo.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_19" href="#FNanchor_19" class="label">[19]</a> “Right, left, together,” &c.</p> - -</div> -</div> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_216">[Pg 216]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XVIII">CHAPTER XVIII.</h2> -</div> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>THE “PONTE MOLLE” CLUB—TECHNICAL ALPHABET—MOCCOLETTI—THE -BLACK BOARD—ELECTION OF CANDIDATES—THE ILLUSTRATED -CHORUS—HARMONIES—CHANGE OF DOMICILE—THE VIA SISTINA—THE -PINCIAN PROMENADE—TRASTEVERINI—THE FRENCH ACADEMY—HIGH ART -AND ITS VOTARIES—ROMAN MODELS—PIFFERARI—PIETRO POMBO—THE VIA -MARGUTTA—L—— AND HIS PAINTING—EXTRAORDINARY MODEL—PICTURES AND -STUDIOS.</p> -</div> - - -<p>Connected with the Cervaro Fest, is a humorous artistical club<a id="FNanchor_20" href="#Footnote_20" class="fnanchor">[20]</a> -called the “<i>Ponte Molle</i>,” which also owes its origin to the -Germans. The weekly meetings of this Roman society of odd-fellows, are -held in the Palazzo Fiano, at the rear of the “Belli Arti” coffee-house -in the Corso, and are of so curious a nature, that although I cannot -hope to do them justice, I shall not be satisfied to let them go -in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_217">[Pg 217]</span> silence. I also presume that as I know but little of the rules -or regulations by which the club is governed, I can reveal nothing -which may not be given to the public. I was introduced by an English -artist, on an occasion when two candidates were to be initiated, and on -entering a large room on the first floor, found myself in the presence -of a hundred or more people of all countries, chiefly, if not entirely, -artists, who seemed by the remains still scattered before them, to have -just finished their supper. The tables were laid out round three sides -of the room in the form of the letter <i>E</i>, the chairman’s seat -being filled by Herr ——, the president of the late Cervaro: before -him lay an auctioneer’s hammer, and a gigantic speaking trumpet, whilst -behind, upon the wall, there hung a large black board.</p> - -<p>We had no sooner taken our seats, and called for some sort of -refreshment, than an individual on the right of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_218">[Pg 218]</span> chair, nearly -deafened us by an announcement in German, which he bellowed through -the trumpet, to the effect that some ceremony was about to take place, -and on looking towards the chairman, I found that he held in his hand -an enormous illustrated alphabet, of which the first page presented -a coloured sketch, bearing allusion to the letters, great <i>A</i> -and little <i>a</i>, printed in large characters underneath. This -exhibition was accompanied by a German rhyme, chanted by the company -in chorus, each man standing on his chair, whilst the whole of the -alphabet was expounded.<a id="FNanchor_21" href="#Footnote_21" class="fnanchor">[21]</a> Then some one distributed to each person -present, about four or five inches of wax taper, or <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">moccoletti</i>, -and with these was also handed round a printed song. At a sign from -the chairman, the tapers were ignited, each individual tied his -napkin round his head, and forming into single file, promenaded -around the room, singing in unison a melody written in honour of the -“Ponte Molle.” The <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">moccoletti</i> seemed of service in enhancing -the <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">outrè</i> appearance of such as aimed at making themselves -as ridiculous as possible, for I noticed one tall fellow with a row -of a dozen<span class="pagenum" id="Page_219">[Pg 219]</span> or more stuck round the brim of his sombrero, whilst -another had attached a piece to the end of his nose. At the conclusion -of the recitation, we resumed our places, and the wine bottles -being replenished, the chairman and others sung a few songs, whilst -preparations were making for the election of the two fresh candidates, -who were shortly ushered in amid a deafening shout of applause, and -stationed under the ominous black board before alluded to. The only -qualification, which to me as a stranger, appeared necessary to ensure -admission to the club, was that of being able happily to illustrate -upon the board, the solution of some knotty enigmatical query, -propounded by the chairman. If an architect or painter, the candidate -would be required to sketch some device appertaining to his art, whilst -a sculptor would be expected to exercise his skill upon a lump of -wet clay, from which he would probably produce some grotesque figure -that would set the room in a roar. Be this as it may, the parties on -the present occasion, receiving at the hands of the president, the -decoration of the order of the Bajocco,<a id="FNanchor_22" href="#Footnote_22" class="fnanchor">[22]</a> were declared amid much -laughter, to have acquitted themselves to the satisfaction of their -judges,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_220">[Pg 220]</span> and to have “<i>passed the Ponte Molle</i>,” and then, the -hieroglyphs having been obliterated, another part of the evening’s -performance was gone through, which I was enabled more readily to -understand, and will, therefore, endeavour to describe. The chief -performer therein, was as usual the chairman. Marking upon the board -with chalk, a short line, thus ——, he inquired—</p> - -<p xml:lang="de" lang="de" class="poetry"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“Ist das nicht der kürz ünd lang?”</span><br /> -</p> - -<p class="p0">to which all responded,—</p> - -<p xml:lang="de" lang="de" class="poetry"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“Ya! das ist der kürz ünd lang.”</span><br /> -</p> - -<p>Then adding a second line, his diagram assumed this form -——/—<span class="figcenter" id="img008"> - <img src="images/008.jpg" class="w10" alt="line split in two" /></span>, with the query.</p> - -<p xml:lang="de" lang="de" class="poetry"> -<span style="margin-left: 6em;">“Ist das nicht ein Schnitzelbang?”</span><br /> -<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">(Tutti.)  “Ya! das ist ein Schnitzelbang!”</span><br /> -<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">(Chorus.) “Schnitzelbang, kürz ünd lang</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 6em;">Eine Schöne, eine schöne</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 6em;">Eine Schöne Schnitzelbang.”</span><br /> -</p> - -<p>Then again with the chalk <span class="figcenter" id="img009"> - <img src="images/009.jpg" class="w10" alt="Ponte Molle" /></span></p> - -<p xml:lang="de" lang="de" class="poetry"> -<span style="margin-left: 5.5em;">“Ist das nicht der Ponte Molle?”</span><br /> -<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">(Tutti.) “Ya! das ist der Ponte Molle!”</span><br /> -</p> - -<p>Adding some dots thus: <span class="figcenter" id="img010"> - <img src="images/010.jpg" class="w10" alt="Ponte Molle full" /></span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_221">[Pg 221]</span></p> - -<p xml:lang="de" lang="de" class="poetry"> -<span style="margin-left: 6em;">“Ist es nicht so gar zü volle?”</span><br /> -<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">(Tutti.)  “Ya! es ist so gar zü volle!”</span><br /> -<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">(Chorus.) “Ponte Molle, gar zü volle”</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 6em;">“Schnitzelbang, kürz ünd lang”</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 6em;">“Eine Schöne, &c.”</span><br /> -</p> - -<p>Then a little mountain, thus: <span class="figcenter" id="img011"> - <img src="images/011.jpg" class="w10" alt="mountain - Monte Cavo" /></span></p> - -<p xml:lang="de" lang="de" class="poetry"> -<span style="margin-left: 5.5em;">“Ist das nicht der Monte Cavo?”</span><br /> -<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">(Tutti.) “Ya! das ist der Monte Cavo!”</span><br /> -</p> - -<p>Adding a little figure on one side of it <span class="figcenter" id="img012"> - <img src="images/012.jpg" class="w10" alt="mountain - Bravo" /></span></p> - -<p xml:lang="de" lang="de" class="poetry"> -<span style="margin-left: 6em;">“Ist das nicht der kleine ‘Bravo?’”<a id="FNanchor_23" href="#Footnote_23" class="fnanchor">[23]</a></span><br /> -<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">(Tutti.)  “Ya! das ist der kleine ‘Bravo!’”</span><br /> -<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">(Chorus.) “Monte Cavo, kleine Bravo”</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 6em;">“Ponte Molle, gar zü volle”</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 6em;">“Schnitzelbang, kürz ünd lang”</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 6em;">“Eine schöne,” &c.</span><br /> -</p> - -<p>Then a little figure with a cocked hat:</p> - -<p class="poetry"> -<span style="margin-left: 5.5em;">“Ist das nicht Napoleon?”</span><br /> -<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">(Tutti.) “Ya! das ist Napoleon!”</span><br /> -</p> - -<p class="p0">followed by a few strokes in his rear, intended to represent a city, -though they were quite as much like an old comb: <span class="figcenter" id="img013"> - <img src="images/013.jpg" class="w10" alt="figure running in front of squiggly lines" /></span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_222">[Pg 222]</span></p> - -<p xml:lang="de" lang="de" class="poetry"> -<span style="margin-left: 6em;">“Der bei Leipsig laüft davon!”</span><br /> -<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">(Tutti.)  “Der bei Leipsig laüft davon!”</span><br /> -<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">(Chorus.) “Napoleon, laüft davon”</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 6em;">“Monte Cavo, kleine Bravo”</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 6em;">“Ponte Molle, gar zü volle”</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 6em;">“Schnitzelbang, kürz ünd lang”</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 6em;">“Eine schöne, eine schöne”</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 6em;">“Eine schöne Schnitzelbang.”</span><br /> -</p> - -<p class="p0">and so on through a variety of similar illustrations, like a -modification of “The house that Jack built,” until he had well nigh -filled his board. These over, the chairman divested himself of a -rat-catcher looking belt which he had worn throughout the evening, and -giving a lusty tap upon the table with his hammer, knocked himself -down for a song, of which he also acquitted himself admirably. Several -others followed, one gentleman, a Swiss, favouring us with a genuine -Vaterlander, in which the beautiful <i lang="de" xml:lang="de">jodeln</i> was charmingly -introduced. On the whole, the harmonic portion of the Ponte Molle was -by far the most gratifying, and I departed with my friend, much amused -with what I had seen and heard, although almost at a loss to comprehend -any portion of the evening’s exhibition.</p> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="img014"> - <img src="images/014.jpg" class="w75" alt="ARTISTS ON THE PINCIAN" /> -</span></p> -<p class="center caption">ARTISTS ON THE PINCIAN.<br /></p> - -<p>Being most anxious to quit the comfortless four-pair-back of the -“Hotel Cesarj,” I consulted with my friend Savill, and by him was -recommended to some rooms in the Via Sistina, an airy street, near the -Trinità de’ Monti, at one end of the Pincian hill. This neighbourhood -had been chosen by Nicholas Poussin, whose house was next door to my -new quarters, whilst that once occupied by Claude, was immediately -opposite to me. Finding the apartment vacant, I engaged it forthwith, -and my padrone undertook to get some old woman to make my bed, and -bring me every morning a jug of hot water. The rooms proved very -comfortable and sufficiently quiet, and I had moreover, the advantage -of a shady garden, overlooking the street. Close to me on the right, -was the Church of the Trinità de’ Monti, which contains the wonderful -frescoes by Daniello of Volterra. A few minutes’ walk further on, would -bring me to the Pincian, the favourite promenade of the Romans, who -ride and drive round it in their badly-varnished, heavy carriages, -with an assumption of <i>ton</i>, which often amuses their visitors. -Here, however, there is no veto against hackney carriages, and the -bracing air and fine prospects of the Monte Pincio, are common to the -patrician and the <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">basso-ceto</i>. On Sundays the place is thronged -with pedestrians of all classes. Groups of Trasteverini, the proud<span class="pagenum" id="Page_224">[Pg 224]</span> -descendants of the ancient Romans, then venture hither, in their -sky-blue pantaloons and short jackets, with low crowned white hats of -the very longest nap. Their lasses accompany them, dressed in gowns -of the gayest hues, their long hair plaited into all sorts of shapes, -and secured by the silver spadino, sometimes a much less innocent -instrument in the hands of the hot-blooded maidens of Rome.<a id="FNanchor_24" href="#Footnote_24" class="fnanchor">[24]</a> These -are attracted to the Pincian solely by the desire of seeing and being -seen—their haunt after mass on the Sabbath being the Osterie, outside -the gates of the city, where they will spend the whole day in dancing, -and regale themselves on sour wine and uncooked ham.</p> - -<p>On the Pincio stands the French Academy, whose beautiful<span class="pagenum" id="Page_225">[Pg 225]</span> gardens, -replete with statues, fountains, and shady <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">boschetti</i>, are the -delight of all romantic dispositions. From hence the eye ranges over -the extensive grounds of the Borghese and Poniatowski, dotted here and -there by an occasional villa, and thickly wooded with stone-pine and -cypress, whilst the distance embraces views of the Soracte and Velino, -and the broken range of the Sabine mountains.</p> - -<p>I had now made the acquaintance of many artists, chiefly through the -kind introductions of Bellamy and Savill, and began to feel an interest -in the sublime arts, of which, until now, I had scarce believed myself -capable. A great deal of my time was spent in their studii, or at the -various galleries in their company, on which occasions, I was forced -into the hearing of so many arguments and disquisitions upon “high -art,” and “art” in all its ramifications, that I was at last fairly -compelled to take up the pencil in self-defence; and the resolution -was no sooner formed and expressed, than I got the offer of a table -in the studio of a friend, and what was of far greater value to me, -the opportunity of benefiting by his advice, during certain initiatory -studies. Poor R——, who was so shortly afterwards taken away from -us, will be in the remembrance of all who knew Rome and its English -artists at the time of which I write.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_226">[Pg 226]</span> His career, though short, was -a sufficiently brilliant one, the productions of his pencil being -justly admired, and had he been spared, there can be little doubt, but -that he would have risen to eminence in the profession. He it was who -undertook, with the kindness for which he was remarkable, to guide my -unpractised hand through the tedious routine of a commencement in what -was to me almost a fresh career; and though at the time I frequently -chafed at the monotonous detail it was necessary to wade through, I am -satisfied that the system was a sound one, and ultimately repaid me the -trouble.</p> - -<p>As R—— mostly chose for his pictures, such subjects as were -illustrative of the manners of the Roman peasantry, I had frequent -opportunities of drawing from the best models. Grazia, Chiaruccia, -and the Pifferari were among those who most suited his peculiar -style, and as they were always willing to talk as long as we would -sit to hear them, I soon picked up a tolerable smattering of Italian. -The faces of these and other Roman models, must be familiar to most -who frequent our modern galleries and exhibitions, and although the -likeness may not in all cases be preserved, some one or other of their -peculiar attributes is sure to reveal them to the practised eye. Who -is there, for instance,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_227">[Pg 227]</span> that cannot claim acquaintance with the old -<i>Pifferaro</i>, in the conical hat, and long white beard, whose face -and figure have been made to play upon canvas nearly every rôle in -the vocabulary. In one and the same apartment of a recent exhibition, -I have seen that old man, jerking his bellows before a Madonna, and -assisting his brother bandits to rifle a travelling carriage in the -Pontine Marsh—casting his net into the Sea of Galilee, and playing at -<i>Morra</i> in the Trastevere!</p> - - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="img015"> - <img src="images/015.jpg" class="w50" alt="Man's head" /> -</span></p> - -<p>Perhaps the most amusing of the models, was Pietro Pombo, who made -his appearance with his brother <i>Pifferari</i><span class="pagenum" id="Page_228">[Pg 228]</span> on the steps of the -Scalinata, about the beginning of Advent, staying until Christmas was -over. Much of this man’s time was passed in sitting for my friend, who -constantly employed him as a costume model, and Pombo was so tenacious -of what he considered to be his own exclusive right in this respect, -that few of the other Pifferari cared to interfere with him. “Io zono -il modello del Zignorrr,” was his usual asseveration, when any of his -brethren attempted to solicit a few hours’ employment. At eight in the -morning, or thereabouts, he would make his appearance at the studio in -the Via Margutta, saluting us in a voice of the most ultra-mountainous -roughness. “Buon giorno, loro Zignorrr Mossieu,” and then introduce his -little boy and inform us of the state of his health, “Bambino mio, zi -Zignorr: zempre meglio, zempre meglio, zalute mia: zi Zignorrr!” K. an -English artist, having sent for him one morning, and not happening to -be quite ready to commence, motioned him to a seat at the far end of -the room, to wait until he had put a few last touches to some sketch he -was finishing. On looking up a few minutes after, he was thunderstruck -on perceiving Pietro Pombo, and his minute fac-simile, the -<i>Bambino</i>, who had divested themselves of their nether garments, -fleaing<span class="pagenum" id="Page_229">[Pg 229]</span> them with the most impurturbable gravity and assurance. K. was -too much amused to disturb them, but could no<span class="pagenum" id="Page_230">[Pg 230]</span> longer restrain himself, -when the Pifferaro continued his toilet, by emptying a small bottle of -drying oil on his black and matted locks, by way of Macassar.</p> - - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="img016"> - <img src="images/016.jpg" class="w50" alt="man standing holding a gun" /> -</span></p> - -<p>The house next door to R——’s, in the Via Margutta, is famous as the -birth-place of a picture which made a good deal of noise in the world. -The particulars I had from an Italian acquaintance, and although it -is possible he may have been <em>generally</em> correct, I will not -vouch for the accuracy of the detail. The painting in question was the -production of <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> L——, one of the first English artists who took up -his abode in Rome after the Peace, and was at first a simple picture, -representing Joseph and the Virgin. By degrees, however, it became -more and more allegorical, until its original dimensions were found -insufficient, and fresh canvas was added from time to time. L—— -now discovered that the dimensions of his studio forbade the further -enlargement of his subject, inasmuch as they did not keep pace with the -development of his intellectual vagaries, and a proposal was therefore -submitted to the landlord to raise the roof of the house, which was -politely declined. An appeal to sink the floor met with better success, -and now the picture assumed a colossal form; the <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">padrone</i>, who -had been admitted to L——’s confidence, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_231">[Pg 231]</span> was the only person -who had seen it, declaring it to be <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">una cosa stupenda</i>. Such -indeed it ought to have been. Fifty dollars’ worth of ultramarine were -swallowed up in the sky alone, besides a whole barrel of bitumen in the -foreground. The <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">materièl</i> alone cost two hundred pounds a-year, -and to meet this outlay, L—— lived chiefly upon bread and potatoes, -whilst the colourman who supplied him, realized a fortune.</p> - -<p>Among other flights of fancy which the picture exhibited, was that -of a colossal horse suspended in mid-air, and in order to obtain the -most suitable model for his purpose, L—— purchased a genuine dead -animal, which he succeeded in securing in a suitable position, by -attaching tackle to the roof of his studio. This, though a work of -considerable engineering difficulty, was rapidly accomplished by L——, -whose perseverance was a match for any obstacle. At this juncture, he -was compelled to quit Rome for a week or so, and, as his custom was, -carefully locked up his studio, and carried with him the key. He had -not been absent many days, before his more immediate neighbours were -annoyed by an unusual, and by no means agreeable odour, which emanated -from L——’s quarters, and gradually increased to such a degree, -that the good people assembled in dismay,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_232">[Pg 232]</span> fearful that nothing less -than some foul murder had been perpetrated, whilst L——’s absence -was now for the first time noticed. An application was then made to -the Governor, who happened to be a personal friend of the artist, -and therefore declined any interference. The nuisance increased, and -at length became so unbearable, that a search was instituted, and -the doors ordered to be forced. L—— arrived from the country just -as a file of <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">carabinieri</i> entered the Via Margutta, and had -no sooner learned the reason of their unwonted appearance, than he -stationed himself at the top of his stairs, with a pistol in either -hand, determined to resist to the death, the meditated violation of -his sanctum. But the Governor’s orders were not to be lightly treated, -and L——, finding that delay would avail him nothing, consented to -admit one of the soldiers, selecting the least intellectual-looking of -the lot, in the hope that his stupidity would prevent any revelations -respecting the subject of the picture. No sooner had the poor fellow -passed the threshold, than he fell back and fainted. And now the murder -was out—the model horse had fallen to pieces, and no one could be -found rash enough to approach such a mass of abomination as the carcass -now presented. The helmet of Alonzo the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_233">[Pg 233]</span> Brave was nothing to it. The -very <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">facchini</i>, who are proverbial for their willingness to -undertake any job, however dirty, were in this instance inexorable, and -it was not until L—— had promised them a reward, which their cupidity -could no longer resist, that they consented to remove the body and -consign it to the Tiber.</p> - -<p>The picture was at length finished, and although from certain -peculiarities in its detail, it was not suffered by the Pope to be -publicly exhibited in Rome, it proved, with all its eccentricities, -such a marvellous production, that it eventually found its way to the -gallery in the Winter Palace of the Emperor of Russia, who purchased it -for fifteen hundred pounds.</p> - -<p>On another floor of the same house, in the Via Margutta, is the studio -of the Italian artist V——, justly famed for his pictures of the -chase, and more particularly that of the wild-boar, which he first -hunts down for his amusement, and then transfers to canvas for his -profit. V—— paints every hair with minute distinctness, and is never -better pleased than when his productions are submitted to a microscopic -test, which, to say truth, they will bear at any time. His anxiety -about Landseer was sometimes very amusing, and though he had heard, -and believed, that his<span class="pagenum" id="Page_234">[Pg 234]</span> rival could paint an animal <em>asleep</em>, he -could not be induced to credit his ability to do justice to one <em>in -motion</em>, until about a year ago, when he paid a visit to London, -where I met him, just after he had been favoured with a sight of some -of our great artist’s unrivalled pictures. The look of anguish with -which he regarded me, when I reverted to the subject, I shall never -forget. In P——’s studio, among many other valuable pictures, is the -Magdalene of Correggio, which at one time excited so much interest, and -caused a lengthy litigation. Its history is so familiar, that I need -not here enter into it.</p> - - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="img017"> - <img src="images/017.jpg" class="w50" alt="man sleeping on a bench" /> -</span></p> - - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_20" href="#FNanchor_20" class="label">[20]</a> The immediate object of the club, is the relief of sick -or distressed artists of any nation, and in order to effect this -purpose, each member pays a trifling annual subscription, whilst -on a certain night in the year, there is a sale by auction, in the -club-room, of sketches and drawings contributed by members, which -are knocked down to the highest bidder. Thus it often happens, that -a chance visitor becomes possessed of the productions of the most -eminent artists, at a cost totally disproportioned to their real value, -and which he might otherwise have been unwilling to purchase. New -members pay for the whole of the wine consumed on the evening of their -admission, and if it should so occur, that no fresh candidate is on the -list, this expense is defrayed by one individual from among the body, -who take it in turns. The election of President is a very interesting -ceremony, and the same person is eligible more than once. Herr W——r, -who is not only an eminent artist, but an accomplished musician, has, -I believe, many times been elected President of the Cervaro Fest, and -he it was who filled the chair of the Ponte Molle, during my visit to -Rome.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_21" href="#FNanchor_21" class="label">[21]</a> I was afterwards informed, that the tendency of the -couplets was at once humorous and satirical, hitting, in rather a -severe manner, the artistical peculiarities of certain men of eminence, -as well as of many then present.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_22" href="#FNanchor_22" class="label">[22]</a> The celebrated Thorwaldsen held this decoration in such -high estimation, that discarding those which his fame and talents had -procured him in every court of Europe, he presented himself before that -of Denmark, wearing only the solitary and unimposing decoration of the -“Order of the Bajocco.”</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_23" href="#FNanchor_23" class="label">[23]</a> The gentleman here named is well known in Rome, and acted -I believe, at one time as secretary to the Danish sculptor before -alluded to.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_24" href="#FNanchor_24" class="label">[24]</a> Maria de’ Monti, one of the most popular models of -Rome, who had frequently suffered annoyance from the importunities -of a <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">contadino</i>, met him one day in the Piazza Barberini, when -the solicitations were again renewed. Having indignantly rejected his -addresses, and received at the same time, a provoking <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">schiaffo</i>, -or slap in the face, she drew the <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">spadino</i> from her hair, and -stabbed him in the breast. No sooner was the blow given, than the -irritated girl ran to the French Academy on the Pincio to seek refuge, -it being considered by the models as a sort of sanctuary. The man -died shortly after, and on being brought before the police, Maria was -immediately acquitted on the score of her youth and previous good -character, and in consideration of the provocation she had received. -This specimen of Roman justice may appear very lax to English minds, -and its want of severity can only be reconciled by the reflection, that -the criminal deed was entirely unpremeditated, and that a blow in the -face is regarded by the irritable Romans, as an unpardonable insult.</p> - -</div> -</div> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_235">[Pg 235]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XIX">CHAPTER XIX.</h2> -</div> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>THE “GRECO”—SIGNOR GIOVANNI—FREQUENTERS OF THE -BARCACCIA—PIETRO—THE ROMAN CIGAR—CAFFE DU BONGOUT—“PUNCH -A LA ROMAINE”—ITALIAN EATING-HOUSES—THE LEPRI—OLD -AURELIO—TERRIBILE—ROMAN BILL OF FARE—SWEETS—ENGLISH -ERRORS—DESSERT—THE LEPRI GARDEN—THE “GABBIONE”—ITS -NEIGHBOURHOOD—FRIED FISH—ALESSIO—“UNA BOMBA ALLA CERITO.”</p> -</div> - - -<p>As I could get nothing cooked in my new domicile, and do not even -know whether it possessed a kitchen or not, I was compelled to take -my meals at the Caffé and Eating-house. Of course I patronized the -Greco, which was not only close to me in the Via Condotti, but the -resort of most of my artistical friends. Signor Giovanni, its padrone, -a good-humoured old man of eighty, was at one time a waiter in the -establishment, but having married its mistress, may now be seen -every day inside the counter, raking up the mezzi-paoli. The Caffé -is also known by its original name of <i>Barcaccia</i>, derived from -the adjacent fountain in the Piazza di Spagna, and was famous during -the war, as the scene of some noisy political meetings. Having been<span class="pagenum" id="Page_236">[Pg 236]</span> -hallowed by the constant presence of men, whose names can never be -lost to fame, and will be remembered when their works have perished, -the marble tables and well-worn benches of the Greco, possess a charm -for the artist, which no other Caffé in Rome can boast. It opens at -four in the morning, when it is resorted to by the Vetturini, who take -their <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">caffé rhummeggiata</i>. After them, about daylight, come the -Italian shopkeepers of the Condotti, who make their early breakfast -of chocolate and little rolls called <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">chiffa</i>, in shape like the -crescent of Diana. These give place to the Danish and German artists, -men with fierce moustaches and grizly beards, who dim the grey-light of -morning by the clouds of smoke inseparable from the proper enjoyment -of <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">mischio</i><a id="FNanchor_25" href="#Footnote_25" class="fnanchor">[25]</a> and <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">caffé latte</i>. These frequent a middle -room, to which they seem to possess an exclusive right, and there -they lounge, all dull and gloomy, sipping and smoking. At about eight -o’clock, the little round tables in the front room are occupied one -by one, whilst at a side bench, over which the notice of “<i lang="la" xml:lang="la">non si -fuma qui</i>,”<a id="FNanchor_26" href="#Footnote_26" class="fnanchor">[26]</a> seems to promise a few cubic yards of atmosphere -less densely impregnated than the rest, may be seen two or three -individuals drinking <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">thé á latte</i>, and conversing<span class="pagenum" id="Page_237">[Pg 237]</span> confidentially -in an under tone. These are great men, whose chisels and brushes have -astonished all Europe. And yet the eye of the <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">ministro</i> with -the coffee-biggin is no oftener directed towards them, than to the -humble <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">stalliere</i>, who is smacking his <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">rhummeggiata</i> on the -opposite bench, nor is the customary obeisance of the Signor Giovanni, -a whit lower to one party than the other. And now Pietro, the waiter, -who has been fanning himself at the open door-way, suddenly arouses us -by a prolonged cry of, “<i lang="it" xml:lang="it">dolcissimo</i>,” and we know that in another -minute we shall see ——, whose scriptural subjects have gained him so -great a notoriety, whilst a similar call for “<i lang="it" xml:lang="it">mezza crema con poco -zucchero</i>,”<a id="FNanchor_27" href="#Footnote_27" class="fnanchor">[27]</a> betokens the approach of the less sweet-toothed -author of the “Life of Raffaelle.” Pietro knows and never fails to -remember the peculiar taste of each of his customers, and I have heard -him give the order for my “<i lang="it" xml:lang="it">pane bruscato</i>,” or dry toast, the -moment that I have turned the corner of the Piazza di Spagna.</p> - -<p>About the middle of the day, there is a sprinkling of Frenchmen, who -drop in to open their appetites by a taste of the “gialla bottiglia,” -so called from the amber-coloured abscynthe, without which preparative, -and the subsequent<span class="pagenum" id="Page_238">[Pg 238]</span> <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">chasse</i>, their mid-day meal would be -considered incomplete. During the afternoon, there is a constant -succession of applicants for <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">caffè-noir</i>, accompanied by the -regulation weed at one bajocco, a cigar generally supposed to have been -born in a cabbage-bed, and baked brown in an oven, and which, after -lying a month on the shelf of a <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">spaccio normale</i>, returns to -dust in the Greco. In the evening, the caffé is generally filled with -a miscellaneous company from all quarters of Europe, who indulge in -<i lang="it" xml:lang="it">mezzi-caldi</i> and hot discussions, mixing punch with politics, and -debating knotty questions bearing upon “art,” until midnight, when the -house is closed.</p> - -<p>Whilst speaking of Roman coffee-houses, I must not omit to mention -the “Bon Goût,” in the Piazza di Spagna, certainly one of the best -in the city, and although not much frequented by the generality of -artists, its benches are often occupied by the older stagers, who -mumble through an elaborate breakfast, unannoyed by the combined odours -of tobacco and abscynthe. Here too, will always be found some of that -peculiar class, so justly idolized by the Roman dealers in bronzes, -mosaics, and marbles, men who carry with them to England, boat-loads of -<i lang="it" xml:lang="it">giallo</i> and <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">rosso-antico</i>, and fill their carriages with -camei and green lizards. Then<span class="pagenum" id="Page_239">[Pg 239]</span> again, the “Bon Goût” is the resort -of those who prefer a French roll and newspaper, to the monotony -of a hotel breakfast in their bedrooms, and is therefore crowded -in the visiting season. In the afternoon, its tables are arranged -outside, under an awning, and there is a constant demand for ices and -barley-water, and as the genuine <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">punch a la romaine</i>, ought, if -it really does not, to date from the Bon Goût, and may there be had in -perfection, the ladies can want no excuse for a free indulgence therein.</p> - -<p>Having disposed of the <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">Caffè</i>, I will devote another page or -two to the unintellectual subject of gastronomy, and beg my reader -to accompany me into a Trattoria, or Italian restaurant. Those of -Rome are numerous and generally good, but as it is with that of -the “<i lang="it" xml:lang="it">Lepri</i>,” that I am more particularly concerned, and may -hereafter have frequently to allude to it, I will endeavour to give -a short description of it and its frequenters. The “Lepri” is in the -Via Condotti, exactly opposite the Caffè Greco, and takes its title -from the palace which adjoins it. The head of the establishment is, -or lately was, a wealthy widow, who would never scruple to render a -service to an artist, and would lend her stock of plate, or tend a sick -couch with unhesitating kindness. Her son lives upon his <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">rentes</i>, -which are<span class="pagenum" id="Page_240">[Pg 240]</span> sufficiently good, and enable him to keep his carriage and -shooting-box.</p> - -<p>On the ground-floor, are two public rooms and an enormous kitchen, -but as the former are chiefly frequented by Italians, we will ascend -the dark and greasy staircase to the first-floor, where we shall find -three distinct entrances to as many tolerably spacious rooms. The -presiding deity of the first, is the old Ferrarese waiter, Aurelio, -with his attendant sommelier rejoicing in the high-sounding name of -Ferdinando Terribile, who seldom sees a customer dine three times in -his room, before he bestows upon him some appropriate soubriquet.<a id="FNanchor_28" href="#Footnote_28" class="fnanchor">[28]</a> -Aurelio is a character possessing some of the <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">suaviter in modo</i> -of his Imperial prototype, and will also be found, if pressed for -two consecutive portions of pudding, (which he stoutly maintains to -be unnecessary,) equally <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">fortiter in re</i>. In Aurelio’s room -are three tables, which, at twelve o’clock, or thereabouts, are -appropriated by hungry yellow-haired Danes and Saxons, deep in the -mysteries of <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">purèe</i> and <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">giardinetto</i>, their flowing beards -and moustaches, lubricated and unctuous with the greasy fluid, which -appears by its effects to be as conducive to a luxuriant<span class="pagenum" id="Page_241">[Pg 241]</span> growth, -as the genuine Macassar. The application of a piece of bread puts -them in train for the next course, and now Aurelio may be observed -confidentially whispering, and touching upon the excellence of such -items of his bill of fare, as he knows will suit the taste of each -particular customer. To one he dictates a <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">fritto misto</i>, a -sort of omnium gatherum, as its name implies, consisting generally -of small portions of calve’s head, liver, brains, artichoke, cabbage -leaves, cauliflowers, and young gourds, fried in fat. Then an Irishman -interrupts him, with a demand for two <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">mezzi-manzi</i>, or bouilli, -by which little dodge, he hopes to secure a larger portion, than if -he had ordered a whole <i>go</i>. To another, Aurelio recommends an -<i lang="it" xml:lang="it">agrodolce</i>, a villainous compound of sweets and sours, or a -<i lang="it" xml:lang="it">stufatino</i> of beef and celery, stewed to rags. The rattling -of knives and plates is now almost deafening. Terribile, in his -capacity of canava, or butler, rushes about with wine-flasks and -<i lang="it" xml:lang="it">fogliette</i>,<a id="FNanchor_29" href="#Footnote_29" class="fnanchor">[29]</a> of the white and red <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">nostrale</i>,<a id="FNanchor_30" href="#Footnote_30" class="fnanchor">[30]</a> having -already taken care, like a ship’s purser, to withhold a thumb-toll -from each bottle in the process of decanting. A course<span class="pagenum" id="Page_242">[Pg 242]</span> of sweets then -follows, and of these, there is such an alarming variety, that the -bill of fare rather puzzles than assists one in making a selection. -Under this head, comes the <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">Zuppa Inglese</i>, a name which leads -our uninitiated countrymen to suppose that ox-tail, or mutton broth, -has got by chance into a wrong column, and if ordered, makes its -appearance in the form of a flat sponge-cake, soaked in rum, with an -upper coating of plaster of paris, and blue sugar-plums. Here also is -the delicate <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">ricotta</i>, a curd much eaten by the Italians at their -breakfast, but usually fried in oil or made into pudding, when served -at dinner. Dessert is rarely eaten, and I should think never called -for a second time by any one at the “Lepri.” I was once rash enough -to express to Aurelio, my desire for some fruit. He assented, with a -stare of astonishment, and brought me, on a plate, a shrivelled apple, -two lumps of sugar, two figs, some unripe almonds, a piece of cheese, -and four large green beans, in the furry pod. The latter are eaten as -a delicacy, but I should think a taste for overgrown scarlet-runners, -would be acquired with difficulty by an Englishman.</p> - -<p>The adjoining rooms will be found very much to resemble that to which I -have endeavoured to introduce the reader,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_243">[Pg 243]</span> saving that people of other -nations will be found there, and instead of his mother-tongue or the -silvery Italian, his ears will be greeted with the harsh gutterals of -Germany, or the still less-intelligible Russian. Behind the Trattoria -there is a garden, where we sometimes dined <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">al fresco</i>, under -odd-looking trees, of questionable appearance. If the wind happened to -be stirring, there would sometimes drop upon us and into our plates -and dishes, a shower of green beetles or caterpillars, whilst our feet -and legs were besieged by a legion of ants. As I never much enjoyed -the forced presence of these little visitors, my rustic dinners were -anything but frequent.</p> - -<p>Such is a rough outline of the mid-day meal at the “Lepri.” With some -this is called, and really serves as a dinner, though the hour of Ave -Maria is generally the busiest at the various Trattorie. Besides the -“Lepri,” there are other eating-houses frequented by artists, who are -often capricious in their tastes, and will walk a mile or more in quest -of some dish of particularly good repute. In the Corso, there is a -Restaurant called the “Bertini,” used by such as prefer being served -in a somewhat more ostentatious style, and who do not object to pay -a trifle more for it. Here the wines are better, and there is more -choice<span class="pagenum" id="Page_244">[Pg 244]</span> of them than at some other places, but the cuisine is very much -the same. The Gabbione, the Falcone, and the Scalinata, are well-known -houses, each remarkable in some way or other. The first, which was -once a banking-establishment, is a cellar under a house, near the -Fountain of Trevi, and is famed for its good wines, delicious water, -and cheapness, but it has withal an appearance so murky and so very far -removed from cleanliness, that the Germans have bestowed upon it the -appellation of the “Dirty Spoon.”<a id="FNanchor_31" href="#Footnote_31" class="fnanchor">[31]</a> The street which leads to it from -the fountain, so celebrated by Madame de Stael, is a sort of vegetable -shamble, and reeks with the perpetual odours of cabbage leaves and bad -melons. A great deal of business is done here in thin lemonades and the -opal-hued <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">assensio</i>, and it is the resort of Carbonari and big -dirty men, who emulate the <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">pieni</i> of the Corso, in swallowing -ices and cold <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">bibite</i>.<a id="FNanchor_32" href="#Footnote_32" class="fnanchor">[32]</a> In winter the heaps of vegetables -give place to fizzing cauldrons of fish, of queer shapes, indigenous -only to the Tiber, among which the really delicate <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">triglie</i><a id="FNanchor_33" href="#Footnote_33" class="fnanchor">[33]</a> -figures conspicuously, while vast tin waiters of fried fish, which -tempt<span class="pagenum" id="Page_245">[Pg 245]</span> even the very Jews from the Ghetto, are here displayed in close -rank on either side. But let us now explore the damp cellar of the -“Dirty Spoon.” Having descended four or five steps, we find ourselves -in a sort of vaulted chamber, whose intense gloom is only relieved by -the doubtful white of the coarse cloths which cover the narrow tables. -Alessio the waiter, will be found either busy with his customers, or -fast asleep upon a bench. These are his only two conditions, and he -fulfils each to the letter. It is wonderful, with what accuracy he -will remember the precise quantity and value of the dishes consumed by -each of his customers, without having recourse to pencil and paper. -The <i>chef</i> of the Gabbione, like those of other Roman trattorie, -appears to have an invincible objection to the introduction of any -novel dish, and I was therefore much surprised one evening that I -visited its subterranean, in company with Savill and “the Emperor,”<a id="FNanchor_34" href="#Footnote_34" class="fnanchor">[34]</a> -who were bent upon supping. We had hardly seated ourselves, ere Alessio -pompously announced a new dish. “Signori, abbiamo Bomba alla Cerito!” -The <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">plat</i> appeared well-timed, inasmuch as the great artiste -was at that very moment delighting the volatile Romans at the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_246">[Pg 246]</span> Teatro -Aliberti, hard by. “Vediamo,” was our reply, and the <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">Bomba</i> -was introduced, but any thing less likely to recall even a faint -recollection of a “<i lang="it" xml:lang="it">pas seul</i>,” I never saw. It proved to be a -ball of rice, fried in green oil, and enclosing a solitary sparrow, of -which the head alone was visible, and was remarkable only on account of -its exalted name, and extremely ludicrous appearance. In taste it was -excellent.</p> - - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="img018"> - <img src="images/018.jpg" class="w50" alt="UNA BOMBA ALLA CERITO" /> -</span></p> -<p class="center caption">UNA BOMBA ALLA CERITO!<br /></p> - - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_25" href="#FNanchor_25" class="label">[25]</a> Coffee and chocolate mixed.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_26" href="#FNanchor_26" class="label">[26]</a> “No smoking here.”</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_27" href="#FNanchor_27" class="label">[27]</a> “Half a cream with little sugar.”</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_28" href="#FNanchor_28" class="label">[28]</a> A practice rendered in some degree necessary, from -Terribile’s inability to pronounce our Saxon names.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_29" href="#FNanchor_29" class="label">[29]</a> A <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">Foglietto</i> is a small decanter, holding nearly a -pint.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_30" href="#FNanchor_30" class="label">[30]</a> <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">Nostrale</i>, when applied to wine, means that grown -in one’s own vineyards.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p xml:lang="de" lang="de"><a id="Footnote_31" href="#FNanchor_31" class="label">[31]</a> Zum schmutzigen Löffel.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_32" href="#FNanchor_32" class="label">[32]</a> Swizzle. (English Vernacular.)</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_33" href="#FNanchor_33" class="label">[33]</a> Red Mullet.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_34" href="#FNanchor_34" class="label">[34]</a> Terribile had dignified one of our friends with the -imposing title of “Imperatore.”</p> - -</div> -</div> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_247">[Pg 247]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XX">CHAPTER XX.</h2> -</div> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>THE TOMBOLA—MAUSOLEUM OF AUGUSTUS—THE MONTGOLFIER—CURIOUS -FINALE—THE BIGLIARDO—POOL—SIR T. B.—AN AMUSING ACQUAINTANCE—THE -BEWILDERED BARBER—THE DOG “PINCIO”—PREPARATIONS FOR -CARNIVAL—BOMBARDING IN THE CORSO—CHARACTERS—CHARLATANS—THE FESTINI.</p> -</div> - - -<p>Shortly after my arrival in Rome, I had an opportunity of witnessing -the drawing of a lottery, or <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">Tombola</i>, as it is there called, -an interesting and exciting scene. These are got up ostensibly for -purposes of charity, and are so ordered, that many parties may be -winners at one and the same time. No sooner is a tombola decided on, -than a vast number of tickets are struck off, and distributed for -sale at various authorized offices throughout the city. These are -simply pieces of paper, containing fifteen spaces, which the applicant -fills up with any fifteen numbers he may choose to fix upon, paying a -moderate sum for the ticket and its registration. On the day appointed -for the drawing of the lottery, I repaired with my friend R—— to -the Corea, or Mausoleum of Augustus, an amphitheatre, now used<span class="pagenum" id="Page_248">[Pg 248]</span> as a -circus for travelling showmen, and exhibitions <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">à la Franconi</i>. On -the present occasion, its benches, and raised platforms were crowded -with people of all degrees and classes, of whom there were perhaps -scarcely fifty, who did not take a personal interest in the drawing of -the numbers. The wheel of fortune was hung in front of a box on the -highest tier, in a conspicuous situation, and we had scarcely taken our -seats, ere a dead silence announced that the first number was about -to be drawn. After a suitable whirling of the cylinder, a little boy -drew forth the paper, and the number was immediately proclaimed by a -herald to the expectant crowd, whilst at the same time, one of ninety -squares, upon a large black board, turned suddenly upon its axis, -and revealed the number to such as were too distant to hear it. All -eyes were now bent upon the tickets; pencils and pins went to work -wherever the number was held, and then an interval of talking and -shouting succeeded, until another number was drawn and proclaimed. -Three consecutive numbers constitute a <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">terno</i>, and command a -small prize, while a <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">quaterno</i> of four in succession, and a -<i lang="it" xml:lang="it">cinquina</i> of five, are still more advantageous. It was not long -before a commotion at one particular spot in the crowd announced the -holding of one of these, and the fortunate<span class="pagenum" id="Page_249">[Pg 249]</span> possessor then elbowed -his way to the wheel, through the dense mass of people, to receive -his prize. About an hour elapsed before “Tombola” was declared in two -places. This only occurs when the declaration of the numbers drawn has -enabled the possessor of a ticket to score off his whole fifteen, and -this done, he became entitled, as in the present instance, to a prize -of three hundred scudi, or a little more than £60. This concluded the -lottery, but some additional amusement was promised to the crowd, in -the shape of a montgolfier balloon, with a lot of fireworks attached to -its hoop, which was inflated after the tombola was disposed of. Such -a machine was probably new to many of the country-people assembled in -the amphitheatre, who gazed at it, as it slowly filled, with extreme -astonishment. Whether intentionally, or by accident, I know not, but -no sooner had the retaining cord been severed, than the balloon rose a -few feet above the heads of the gaping spectators, and then toppling -over, first caught fire itself, and next ignited the combustibles which -were tied to it. Squibs, crackers, and Roman candles, now burst forth -in a fiery shower, which caused a dire confusion in the arena, whilst -the miserable remnant of a balloon, ascending to the upper boxes, -scattered burning fragments of thin paper<span class="pagenum" id="Page_250">[Pg 250]</span> amongst the silks and satins -of the ladies. The women screamed, and the men yelled and hooted, and -the uproar was at its height, when suddenly the sponge, which had been -plentifully saturated with spirits, detached itself from the wires, -and fell into the middle of a group of contadini, who had been staring -upwards in awe-struck amazement. A bursting bomb-shell would have been -nearly as welcome. The people cleared a space immediately, whilst one -young fellow, more disposed for fun than the rest, hurled the flaming -affair into a distant part of the arena, where its arrival, being -equally unexpected, caused quite as great a sensation. Many persons had -their clothes injured, whilst others were more or less burned, and it -is probable that the fun would have ended in something less innocent, -had not the soldiery put a sudden stop to it, by clearing the place.</p> - -<p>In one of the rooms of the Fiano palace, was a Roman -“<i lang="it" xml:lang="it">bigliardo</i>,” where I could always be pretty sure of meeting -some of my countrymen, when dinner was over. On rainy days especially, -it was satisfactory to know, that one might get a few hours’ exercise -under cover, and we occasionally mustered a strong <em>pool</em>. In the -Italian game, only two balls are made use of, and any number of persons -can<span class="pagenum" id="Page_251">[Pg 251]</span> play, the marker giving out a lot of little figured counters, -which are shuffled in a bag, and decide the particular number of each -player. The cues are generally without leathers, the Italians having -but little notion of the <em>side</em> stroke, and the handling of them -is so noisy and disagreeable, that I prevailed upon the marker, as an -especial favour, to point one or two for us, but his innocence proved -so great, that he nailed on a few round pieces of shoe-leather, with -a common tack, and fancied he had succeeded to admiration. After one -or two more attempts, he acquired the right method of fixing the -leather, and we could then enjoy our game. The pool was never higher -than two bajocchi ahead, and each life of one bajocco, a moderation on -our part, which astonished such stray English visitors, as dropped in -occasionally upon us.</p> - -<p>As we played purely for recreation, any thing like an innovation would -have been regarded by the old frequenters of the room as an insult. -Sir T—— B—— would have thrown down his cue in disgust, and his -common exclamation of <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">mi sento meglio</i> would have given way to a -groan of despair. Dedly would have greeted any such proposition with -a stare of wonder at its extraordinary boldness, whilst Warmey would -incontinently have “pitched into” the intruder.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_252">[Pg 252]</span> Such being the order -of our game, the <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">bigliardo</i> became a general rendezvous, one -of its two tables being vacated the instant that Sir T.’s well-known -shuffle was heard at the glass doors. The other was always left to the -Italians, who played neither for amusement nor exercise, inasmuch as -they used to <em>sit</em> round the table, and watch by the hour together -a game played by three or four of their party, with a number of minute -balls set in motion by the hand. This was evidently a <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">parti</i> -requiring considerable skill, heavy bets being laid upon the event. -What this might be, I never could clearly ascertain, but the excitement -produced by the game was so intense, that Sir T.’s exclamation from -our table of “<i lang="it" xml:lang="it">Bigliardiere, tacco qui</i>” which he repeated on an -average once every ten minutes, calling the attention of the marker -from the other game, was received by the Italians with muttered -imprecations upon the fat old <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">Inglese</i>, whose short legs rendered -the butt or bridge, necessary at every second stroke. Sir T—— -however, was proof against any insult, whether in English or Italian, -<i lang="it" xml:lang="it">sotto</i> or <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">viva voce</i>, a good-natured indifference on his -part, which often made <em>him</em> the butt of his brother-players.</p> - -<p>Another game much in vogue in Italy, is that of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_253">[Pg 253]</span> <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">Pirole</i>, -where five little pins are set up in the centre of the table, through -which a <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">pallino</i>, or small red ball, is doubled. The number of -<i lang="it" xml:lang="it">pirole</i> knocked over by it are counted as so many points, as -well as certain odd cannons and winning hazards, but as the pockets in -an Italian table are preposterously large, and the great art seems to -consist in avoiding them rather than otherwise, the <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">pirole</i> is a -game not often played by foreigners.</p> - -<p>In the <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">bigliardo</i> of the Fiano, I made the acquaintance among -others of D——, a young Highlander, whose vagaries afterwards made -him the terror of all the coffee-house and tavern-waiters in Rome. He -was <em>not</em> an artist, but appeared to be travelling solely for his -pleasure and amusement, lodging on the first floor of a house in the -Condotti, and devoting himself entirely to the prosecution of practical -jokes, and the study of German particles. His apartment looked like -the den of some embryo Anderson, or Phillipe, so filled was it at all -times with conjuring apparatus and machines for jerking obnoxious -missiles. For many days the shopkeepers, and others in his immediate -neighbourhood, but more especially those on the opposite side of the -street, were astonished by continued showers of peas, which sometimes -rattled in torrents against their windows, or<span class="pagenum" id="Page_254">[Pg 254]</span> popped per single pea, -at ominous and regular intervals against one particular pane. In vain -did the bewildered barber at the corner of the Via Belsiana, full ten -houses off, wait in ambush at his shop-door to rush out against some -wrongly-suspected <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">bambinaccio</i>.<a id="FNanchor_35" href="#Footnote_35" class="fnanchor">[35]</a> No sooner did he expose -his own block and wig outside the door-post than a stinging volley -caused him to beat a hasty retreat. Every priest that passed along the -Condotti was saluted with one or more peas, which rebounding with a -sharp crack from off his stiff three-decker glanced away to a distance, -leaving the unfortunate <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">padre</i> lost in a stare of amazement. -These persecutions continued without intermission for a fortnight, -and the Cock Lane ghost could scarcely have produced a more feverish -excitement in its immediate locality, than did the twopenny pea-shooter -of the waggish D——, from behind the <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">jalousies</i> of his bed-room -window. It is difficult to say what might have been the end of these -vagaries, had they not been suddenly put a stop to by the interference -of D.’s landlord, who had acquired some clue<span class="pagenum" id="Page_255">[Pg 255]</span> to their author from the -tinman on the ground-floor, who had made the pea-shooter, a weapon -hitherto unknown in Roman warfare, and consequently regarded with -curiosity.</p> - -<p>This was one only in the catalogue of jokes perpetrated by our new -friend. Hot bajocchi were thrown from his window, to be picked up and -dropped again by the lad at whose feet they fell. His neighbours were -kept awake half the night by the discordant notes of a badly-blown -cornet-à-piston, whose melodies alternated between “<i>Jolly nose</i>” -and “<i lang="it" xml:lang="it">Ti voglio ben’ assai</i>,” a canzonetta which D. had picked up -at Naples. An old German Countess, who occupied the adjoining chamber -in the next house, was compelled to quit her rooms and forfeit half -a-year’s rent, from a firm conviction that the place was haunted. -Little did she imagine that her next-door neighbour never retired to -rest without indulging in the royal game of tennis, playing a match -between his right and left hands against the party wall.</p> - -<p>Though not himself an artist, D—— made some pretensions that way. -An unfortunate dog, which appeared to exist alternately at the Lepri, -and Caffé Greco, and seemed more particularly to attach itself to the -English, was enticed in an evil hour to D——’s apartment. Our<span class="pagenum" id="Page_256">[Pg 256]</span> artist -had provided himself with one or two bladders of oil-paint and some -brushes, and having coaxed poor <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">Pincio</i> into a suitable position, -converted him in about twenty minutes into a species of nondescript -hyæna, and then let him loose into the Condotti, where he created -considerable consternation. Such as first saw him, fled in terror to -the open shop-doors, while the more courageous set off in pursuit, -chasing the poor animal through a funeral procession, whose solemnities -he utterly confounded, to the Greco, which he entered at full speed, -and upsetting Antonio with two <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">mezzi-caldi</i> and a <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">caffé -nero</i>, forced his way into the omnibus room amid the <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">huèes</i> -of a tribe of raggamuffins of the Populusque Romanus, who imagined -that some wild animal had escaped from the menagerie of Guillaume in -the Corea. Here poor Pincio shuffled in and out among the legs of -some ten or more of us, transferring broad streaks of burnt-umber and -ivory-black from <em>his</em> coat to <em>our</em> trowsers, whilst the -author of all the mischief had unconcernedly seated himself in a shaded -corner, and was enjoying the success of his first essay in oils.</p> - -<p>The period of Carnival was now at hand, and most of my friends were -busy in making preparations for the coming<span class="pagenum" id="Page_257">[Pg 257]</span> festivities. In touching -upon those incidental to this particular season, I shall jot down -such occurrences as came under my own notice, relating chiefly to the -operations of brother artists, who are, like all the rest, subject to -the epidemics of fun and frolic. Transmogrified in dress and feature, -their very mothers would fail to recognize their offspring; and -immolating their last <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">scudo</i> at the shrine of the Swiss vendor -of confetti and bon-bons, or sinking it at once in the shortlived -incognito of mask and domino, they take their part in the triumph of -Momus. “Who enters there, leaves hope behind,” as far as the financial -arrangements of the future are concerned, and many a poor artist -laments with empty stomach, the forced “farewell to flesh,” which his -reckless expenditure, during the Carnival, obliges him to practise for -weeks after the fun is over. But to proceed—I have already hinted that -I shall not enter upon a lengthy description of the Carnival, and I -will, therefore, note down only such little episodes of the few days -of amusement as come most readily to hand. If the weather be fine, -there is an unusual degree of excitement in the streets, before the -anxiously expected hour of two, when the Governor of Rome, officers -of state, dragoons, soldiers, and civic guard, march in stately pomp -along the narrow<span class="pagenum" id="Page_258">[Pg 258]</span> Corso, and “opening the ball,” as it were, give the -signal for a commencement of the festivities. The street has been -newly gravelled for the occasion, whilst throughout its whole length, -the balconies are decorated with crimson cloths, damasks, antique -brocades and hearth-rugs, giving it an appearance which may be compared -to a perspective view of a tailor’s pattern card, until the mingled -colours are lost in the distance. The lower windows are fitted up like -stage-boxes at a theatre, and the pavements exhibit long files of -chairs, placed close together, for the accommodation of such of the -fair sex as cannot resist a participation in the gaiety, though their -timidity restrains them from mixing with the crowd.</p> - -<p>It is difficult to say in what the peculiar delight of the Carnival -consists—the avowed business of each successive day, is to carry -about one, as great a quantity as possible of plaster of Paris -<i lang="it" xml:lang="it">confetti</i>, for the purpose of indiscriminate pelting, wholesale -or retail as the case may be. Some reserve their stores for general -use, dealing the contents of their pockets and pouches right and left, -with a recklessness quite exhilarating, and by no means dangerous; -while those more up to the game, wreak private vengeance upon any -unfortunate object they may single out as peculiarly adapted for<span class="pagenum" id="Page_259">[Pg 259]</span> a -volley, especially if the individual be unmasked. These onslaughts -do not always go unavenged, the assailant, when he least expects it, -receiving in his face a half-pound of white canister, or may-be, a -bonce compounded of chalk and sugar, which produces some new and very -palpable phrenologic development. Everything, however, is supposed to -be fair at the time of Carnival, and few are the insults offered which -cannot be expiated by a hearty laugh, or a friendly interchange of -missiles.</p> - -<p>The most dignified-looking people in the Corso, are the Roman dandies, -who seldom condescend to mingle in any of the active sport, but stand -condensed in a mass at the doors of the various caffes, smoking their -cigars, and turning to the right and left with a mingled expression of -imbecility and good-natured contempt. The higher classes may be seen -in the procession which threads its way, unending and at dreary pace, -from end to end of the long street. These, and the lower orders, or -<i lang="it" xml:lang="it">basso ceto</i>, are by far the most facetious, and keep up between -them, the true spirit of the Carnival. But our grave and matter-of-fact -country-people, seem of all others to enjoy themselves to the full -extent, exaggerating to a ludicrous degree the authorized liberties -of the occasion. For every handful of <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">confetti</i> cast by a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_260">[Pg 260]</span> -Roman, the young Englishman from his first-floor balcony, returns -a shovel-full, systematically raining upon the passing crowd, a -continuous shower of lime, until the street below is whitened by his -unromantic ammunition. But let us adjourn to a neighbouring studio -in the Via Felice, where we may see the preparations making by some -of our friends for their first appearance on the Corso. I arrived -just as lunch was going on, and found a number of my acquaintance in -various stages of their toilet, whilst others were busily rehearsing. -R——s, as Figaro, was running through the “Bravo, bravissimo,” of -the <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">Barbiere</i>, whilst T——, in “jacket blue, and tarry, tarry -trousers,” was regaling himself with raw ham and a hornpipe in a corner -of the room, whistling the air between each mouthful. Our refection -was interrupted at intervals by the entrance of other brothers of the -brush, each bedizened according to his own ideas of originality, in -monstrous nose or mask of preposterous shape. Then came the sound of -a guitar, and with his peculiar laugh and satyr-like figure, enters -Alesandro, the model and shoemaker, for he serves by turns <abbr title="saint">St.</abbr> Luke -and <abbr title="saint">St.</abbr> Crispin, and among other eccentricities, is given to music, -ready for a consideration, either with a <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">pose plastique</i>, or -a Neapolitan ditty. Our toilet finished, we passed through<span class="pagenum" id="Page_261">[Pg 261]</span> the -small streets contiguous to the Corso and Piazza di Spagna, now all -deserted and lonely. Every one seems attracted towards the grand -scene of action, a few perhaps, stopping by the way to inquire of -themselves, how they can reconcile it to their sound reason to join -in such excessive buffoonery. Our companion R——d was not of this -number; he revelled in the Carnival, anticipating each day’s fun -with peculiar gusto, and grave and decided in his preparations. His -arrangements were of the most perfect kind, and his success, as far as -incognito went, undeniable. To this day, all but his friends remain -ignorant of the identity of the merry sprite, now white, now red, with -Mephistopheles-looking face, and like Porson’s devil, “backwards and -forwards, switching his long tail.” To the Romans, he appeared a kind -of myth, a being whose mysterious properties it were unsafe to pry -into. I had heard of his pranks both here and at Florence, and I saw -sufficient of them at this carnival, to convince me he was a very king -of maskers.</p> - -<p>But to return to the Corso. Elbowing through the crowd, and stoically -submitting to the burst of mimic artillery, which is sure to assail -every new comer, one glances timidly around, and upwards. It would -fill a larger volume than this, were I to attempt even a cursory -description of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_262">[Pg 262]</span> scene which is there presented. The myriads of -closely grouped heads, and faces of all expressions, bending over -the moving mass below, all intent and animated, as if life and death -depended upon some mighty issue, about to take place: the odd mixture -of character and colour, every possible impersonation mingled up and -confused with the Roman, οι πολλοι, formed a perfect tide of human -beings, of whom each endeavoured to outstrip his neighbour in an excess -of absurdity. Among these are conspicuous, the lawyer-like individuals, -half-quack, half-notary, who amuse the passers by with extemporaneous -advertisements, upon some fictitious nostrum, which their doggrel verse -attempts to justify. Their effusions are satirical, and often unsuited -to ears polite, but around them will always be seen a gaping crowd, who -drink in with avidity their political allusions, and gaze on them with -looks of veneration, far beyond their merits to inspire. Over-head, the -air is almost darkened with the unceasing showers of confetti, flowers, -and sweet-meats, while the face, if unprotected by a mask, becomes a -butt for all sorts of missiles. The stream of carriages is continuous, -one file passing each way, and the order of these is so well maintained -by the mounted Carabinieri, who guard all the streets leading out of -the Corso, that in a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_263">[Pg 263]</span> crowded Carnival, it is rarely that the same -carriages meet each other twice in one day. At the hour of five, a -single gun booms from the Castle of <abbr title="saint">St.</abbr> Angelo, and a troop of mounted -dragoons rapidly clear the streets, the giddy masquers, and more sober -observers, retreating to the protection of the curb-stone. Then follows -the well-known race of the riderless Barberi, and subsequently the -dispersion of the crowd.</p> - -<p>During the Carnival, a <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">Festino</i> is held at either the Argentina -or Aliberti theatre. These are pretty much the same as our masquerade, -excepting for the variety of tongues, and the greater facility and -cleverness displayed at Rome in dressing for and sustaining the -characters assumed, whilst at the <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">festino</i>, the stranger will -not remark any of the very equivocal morality which distinguishes our -own <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">bals masqués</i>. The common-people, as usual, have the best of -it, taking possession of the centre portion of the floor, and dancing -indefatigably under the droppings of wax lights, and amid a suffocating -cloud of dust, until literally pushed off the boards by an advancing -platoon of gens-d’armes, who move slowly along, in close file, until -they have entirely cleared away the nocturnal revellers.</p> - - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_35" href="#FNanchor_35" class="label">[35]</a> The Italian terminations,—<i lang="it" xml:lang="it">accio</i> and <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">uccio</i> -are particularly expressive, one letter establishing a very wide -difference in their signification. <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">Bambino</i> for example, means -<i>a little boy</i>; <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">Bambinaccio</i>, with a powerful emphasis -on the <i>a</i>, means a naughty, dirty little raggamuffin; whereas -<i lang="it" xml:lang="it">Bambinuccio</i> is a sweet little duck of a boy!</p> - -</div> -</div> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_264">[Pg 264]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXI">CHAPTER XXI.</h2> -</div> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>JOURNEY TO FLORENCE—MY FRIEND LUISH—A SUSPICIOUS -LANDLADY—MONTEROSI—NEPI—THE HOTEL—LUISH’S HAT—CIVITA -CASTELLANA—OTRICOLI—MY WASHERWOMAN’S COUSIN—THE MERCHANDIZE -CART—NARNI—TERNI—PIE-DI’-LUCO—THE ECHO—STRITTURA—EGG -DIET—FULIGNO—PERUGIA—BOARDING-HOUSES—FLORENCE.</p> -</div> - - -<p>The warm season was now coming on, and with its approach came my old -tormentor, the rheumatism. I found that I had worn out the remedies -prescribed by my friend <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> A—— of Cairo, which had procured me -considerable relief whilst in Egypt and under his immediate care, -but now seemed entirely without effect. I therefore determined upon -a farther change of air and scene, and having heard of a celebrated -English physician at Florence, made up my mind to proceed thither -and consult him, and as most of my countrymen quit Rome during the -extreme heat of the summer months, I had no difficulty in meeting with -a travelling companion. It happened that a young architect, named -Luish, had long been meditating a journey northwards,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_265">[Pg 265]</span> and he and I -agreed to set off on a walking tour together, preferring such a mode -of locomotion, to either <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">malleposte</i> or <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">vetturino</i>. We -were both anxious to see the country, and to have the option of making -digressions from the beaten track, wherever some piece of scenery more -than ordinarily beautiful might offer the inducement.</p> - -<p>Our resolution was no sooner formed, than carried into effect, and -bidding a temporary adieu to our Roman friends, a party of whom -accompanied us to the Porta del Popolo, we entered on the Flaminian -Way, and took the road towards Florence, provided only with trusty -sticks, and our knapsacks, sending our portmanteaux by <em>diligence</em> -as far as Perugia, there to await us. I believe our appearance was -anything but remarkable on the score of good looks, as we both wore -the velveteen jacket of the Roman artist, whilst my companion had -marred the appearance of his ensemble, by the assumption of a wretched -old white hat from Bread Street, which he regarded and stuck to, as a -valued relic. In one respect, our questionable shape was an advantage, -as no highway robber would have thought it worth his while to molest -us; at least such was our fancied security. The day was insufferably -hot, and the roads dusty, so that we could scarcely hope to get on -very far at a stretch, and on<span class="pagenum" id="Page_266">[Pg 266]</span> reaching a little road-side osteria, -called Il Fosso, a few miles beyond the posting station of La Storta, -we began to feel so weary, that the landlady’s offer of beds at a paul -each, was no sooner made than accepted. As our bed-room did not boast -of any other furniture than the two beds, Luish and I made our morning -toilette at a delicious fountain, just outside the house, where we -soused and splashed away to our hearts’ content, my companion running -about to dry himself, whilst I performed the same operation with an -ample Egyptian towel, which I carried in my knapsack. This latter -proceeding attracted the notice of our landlady, who had no idea of -so unwonted a luxury on the part of a poor walking <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">pittore</i>, -and ultimately arrived at the conclusion, that I had appropriated the -supper-cloth of the previous evening. To disabuse the old woman of her -odd suspicion, was the work of a moment, but the hard impeachment was -by no means very flattering.</p> - -<p>Having paid our little score, we pursued our walk, passing the -miserable village of Borghettaccio, and the pestilential Baccano. Here -a boy overtook us with two return horses, on whose bare backs we got a -lift to the posting village of Monterosi, where we entered an osteria, -and called for some refreshment. This we were not suffered to enjoy in -peace,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_267">[Pg 267]</span> as a lot of rude fellows came in soon after, and endeavoured -to provoke us into a <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">broglio</i>, with a view most probably to -hustle and deprive us of our knapsacks. We managed to defeat their -intentions, by taking their insults in good part, until we had settled -our reckoning, and got clear into the street, where they were afraid -to tackle us. A more villainous-looking set of people than those of -Monterosi, I never saw. Ugly old women grinned maliciously at us as we -passed by their filthy dwellings—the men were all dirty and unshorn, -lame, blind, and crippled, and the very children hopped after us on -crutches, to solicit a stray bajocco. We were heartily glad when we had -quitted the village, and exchanged the dull and uncultivated campagna, -for a thickly-wooded, hilly landscape.</p> - -<p>A little beyond Monterosi, the road diverges; one branch leading to -Florence, by Viterbo and Siena, and the other by Perugia. The first -is the great post-road, shorter and more frequented, but the latter -is by far the most interesting, and abounds with charming scenery. -My companion and I had already made up our minds, and pushed onwards -towards Nepi, a strongly fortified little town, in a picturesque -situation, where we decided upon passing the night. I believe we -went to the only, and therefore the best inn in the place,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_268">[Pg 268]</span> but the -single bench for the accommodation of weary travellers, was <em>in</em> -the great chimney of the kitchen, where our heads were exposed to an -intense draught of smoke and wind, whilst our boots were nearly reduced -to cinders. In this comfortable state of things, we hastily swallowed -our supper, and were shown to the only bed-room in the house, which -proved to be a general dormitory, two out of its four beds being -already tenanted by snoring <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">carrettieri</i>. As we had determined -before quitting Rome, to make the best of everything, and see all -we could at any cost, we turned in without hesitation, tucking our -trousers and valuables under our bolsters, by way of precaution.</p> - -<p>Our intention was to have walked onwards early the next morning, but -on quitting our little inn, we found ourselves the gazing-stock of the -whole town, in consequence of the dilapidated condition of my friend’s -hat, which now looked as if <em>it</em> also had been tucked for a -night under his pillow. It was indeed such a truly “bad” one, that we -resolved it should be replaced by something a little more respectable, -although upon inquiry, we found that Nepi did not boast a hatter’s -shop. The young man whom we interrogated, said he had at home a hat, -which he thought might answer the purpose, and a bargain was soon -struck, in the presence<span class="pagenum" id="Page_269">[Pg 269]</span> of some thirty of the townsfolk. The discarded -gossamer was consigned to the gutter, where it served as a foot-ball -for a crowd of idle boys, and eventually found its way to the head of a -drunken shoemaker. In the shop of a little tobacconist, we met with an -intelligent German, who, observing that we were foreigners, very kindly -conducted us to some fine points of view, and so tempting did we find -them, that the rest of the day was passed in sketching. We afterwards -took a few random profiles in the cigar shop, and among others that of -our new friend, who seemed very much delighted when I cut it out of my -sketch-book and presented it to him.</p> - -<p>The next day we took the mountain road to Civita Castellana, along -a rocky bridle path, which saves a few miles, and is much more -interesting than the carriage-road. The Mons Soracte, or as it is now -called, <abbr title="saint">St.</abbr> Oreste, was constantly before us, rising from the midst of -a fertile plain, and forming a pleasing part of the landscape. As we -walked, we were waylaid by a couple of rough-looking customers, whose -intentions were evidently dishonest. We gave them the slip by sheer -good running, clearing the last mile into the valley below Civita -in excellent style, but so knocked up and out of breath, that once -within reach<span class="pagenum" id="Page_270">[Pg 270]</span> of friendly shelter, we took our time in ascending the -zigzag steps which lead to the lofty summit of rock on which the city -is built. A little inn called the “Moro,” furnished us with tolerable -accommodation, and we were no sooner fairly housed, that the rain began -to descend in such a determined drizzle, that we should have been -disappointed had the next morning proved bright and sunshiny. Civita -Castellana is about the last of all places in which a traveller would -wish to be weather-bound, and Luish and I started off in the wet for -Otricoli. Near a post-house called Borghetto, we crossed the Tiber, -which is there a beautiful stream, fertilizing a wide valley between -rugged hills, and navigable below the bridge for boats drawing only -four or five feet of water. We had a very up-hill walk to Otricoli, a -miserable little town with a locanda of the meanest description. As a -set-off, however, against its various <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">desagrèmens</i> we found a -most obliging landlady, who no sooner observed that our knapsacks were -drenched, and that we must lie in our beds until a change of linen was -ready, than she very kindly provided us with sundry articles from the -wardrobe of her <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">sposo</i>.</p> - -<p>As I stood at the door of the inn, under shelter of its rude and -stuccoless piazza, eyeing the big drops which<span class="pagenum" id="Page_271">[Pg 271]</span> came splashing down -before me, I was accosted by a dapper-looking young Roman in blue -velveteen, who inquired if I were the <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">Signor Bevano</i>, adding, -that he was charged, if he overtook us on the road, to give us a -lift in his merchandize cart, as far as our way might lie together. -Having acknowledged my identity, I learned that the order emanated -from my Roman washerwoman, who upon hearing that her <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">cugino</i> was -travelling our way on one of his monthly journeys, had begged him to -give us a cast, and we agreed to accept his offer the next morning. -Otricoli abounds with remains of former splendour, and it is said that -the suburbs of ancient Rome extended thus far. I walked with Luish to -see what was most interesting within the precincts of the town, but -our landlord’s clothes and boots fitted us so badly, and the enormous -red cotton umbrellas soaked in such a power of rain water, and were -so very heavy, that our researches were soon concluded. Our friend -having called us at five o’clock, we descended from the cloudy regions -of Otricoli, and as the weather was now much improved, enjoyed one of -the finest rides imaginable. As we approached Narni, the road skirted -the edge of a tremendous ravine overhanging the Nera, a mountain -torrent of the Appenines, rushing between rocky<span class="pagenum" id="Page_272">[Pg 272]</span> and beautifully wooded -precipices, until swallowed up in the Tiber below Otricoli.</p> - -<p>The merchandize cart was well-horsed, and driven in a way that would -not have disgraced a more elegant turnout. The <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">cugino</i> would -accept nothing by way of reward, save a breakfast at the “Lion of <abbr title="saint">St.</abbr> -Marc,” in the little piazza of Narni, where he deposited us with many -protestations of good-will, and a regret that his business did not call -him farther on our road. Narni is an interesting town perched on the -side of a steep declivity, and famed in history for the extraordinary -valour of its inhabitants, who devoured their wives and families rather -than surrender to the enemy! We remained there one day for the sake of -sketching the ruins of a fine bridge erected by the Emperor Augustus, -of which one arch is still perfect. Our road then lay through the -valley of the Nera, and from its extreme flatness, would have been -barely interesting but for the prospect of the blue Appenines in the -distance before us.</p> - -<p>Towards evening we reached Terni. The waiter at “<i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">Les Iles -Britanniques</i>” seemed rather to hesitate about taking an order for -dinner from a pair of such seedy looking pedestrians as ourselves, -and I believe was considering the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_273">[Pg 273]</span> propriety of informing us with the -ready lie peculiar to his species, that the hotel was quite full, when -we were seen and recognized by our friend A——, who had been staying -there some days. This caused a diversion in our favour, and the waiter, -who declared he had mistaken us for German “<i lang="de" xml:lang="de">Handverke</i>,” was now -all smiles and attention.</p> - -<p>The next day was of course devoted to the Falls, which are as well -known to tarry-at-home travellers, as those of the Coliseum and -Zoological gardens. I shall therefore, spare my readers the customary -quotation from Childe Harold, which, as I could not call it to mind -as we stood gazing at the cascade, and have not since had occasion to -remember, I shall not now take the trouble to search after. Suffice -it to say, that the Velino tumbles over the same rock as heretofore, -in its own old-fashioned way, from the same “headlong height,” and -with a tolerably considerable “roar of waters.” My friend Luish hinted -something about “Phlegethon,” but as none of our fifteen guides -had ever heard of such a thing, we agreed to drop the subject, and -proceeded onwards to the small lake of Luco, where we were rowed out -to a distant promontory to hear an extraordinary echo, repeating -hexameter lines and sentences of ten or twelve words. Here we sat on a -bench overlooking the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_274">[Pg 274]</span> lake and opposite village of Piè-di-luco, and -treated its inhabitants to a sort of <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">obligato</i> concert. Among -other choice morceaux, were some verses of the German <i lang="de" xml:lang="de">Kuhreihe</i>, -or <i lang="de" xml:lang="de">Jodeln</i>, which I had picked up in some Tyrolese valley, and -these seemed so much to astonish the unsophisticated villagers, that -one old fellow put off in a boat and rowed over to us, to see what was -the matter. Having repeated my song, he insisted upon taking us home -with him to dinner, and introducing us to his family. A more jolly -old fellow than the Signor Lazzaro I never met with, and his wife and -daughters were equally agreeable. I suppose our attempts at Italian -were of the queerest, for we seemed to afford the whole family a good -share of amusement. We were not suffered to depart until after we had -partaken of an early supper, when the kind old gentleman had his horse -and cabriolet brought to the door, and drove us back again into Terni.</p> - -<p>Strittura was our next halting-place, where we could get nothing to eat -but eggs, the staple commodity of all small Italian villages:</p> - -<p class="poetry"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“We’d eggs in all shapes, ‘a la coq,’ ‘in tegame,’</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Eggs hard boiled, and soft boiled, and fried with <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">salame</i>.”</span><br /> -</p> - -<p>It was curious to observe the shifts that our good landlady<span class="pagenum" id="Page_275">[Pg 275]</span> was put -to, in order to vary our oviparous entertainment. The <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">tegame</i> -is a little earthen stew-pan, like the saucer belonging to our -flower-pots, with a handle, and in this the eggs are stirred up with -butter, forming a favourite Italian dish. As we swallowed our eggs in -the kitchen, two empty one-horse waggons, which were proceeding in our -direction, arrived at the door. On entering into conversation with the -<i lang="it" xml:lang="it">carrettieri</i>, we found that they were going as far as Fuligno, -and as their easy speed would exactly suit our own notions of getting -over the ground, we struck a bargain with them for four pauls each, -Luish taking one cart, and I the other. As they were roomy, and had -each a good shake-down of clean straw, we found that we could either -sit, stand, or lie down, as we listed, and with this ability to change -our position, we greatly enjoyed our ride. Passing over the Somma, a -lofty point of the Appenines, we drove round the walls of Spoleto, -without entering the city, being anxious to reach the little village of -San Giacomo to sleep. Here the inn proved almost a repetition of that -at Il Fosso, already mentioned, our morning ablutions being made at a -fountain in the yard: I was not however, this time, honoured by any -suspicions on the part of the landlady.</p> - -<p>Journeying onwards, we picked up a nail-maker of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_276">[Pg 276]</span> Fuligno, who proved -a very chatty fellow, and furnished us in his own person, with a good -specimen of the Fulignese character, remarkably for its intelligence -and energy. He pointed out to us the beautiful little temple of Diana, -near the source of the fertilizing Clitumnus, and quoted appropriately -from the Georgics of Virgil. This once pagan temple, is now dedicated -to some Christian saint, and though the sacrificial rites, have long -since been forgotten, the architectural beauty of the building remains -unimpaired, and the oxen of the Clitumnus are as white as ever.</p> - -<p>Fuligno is an interesting and well-built city, and a place of -considerable trade, with manufactories of silks and woollen stuffs. -Being anxious to reach Perugia, my companion and I got two places in -the “<i lang="it" xml:lang="it">legno</i>” of a Vetturino, in preference to walking over a -long piece of road, offering but little that is interesting to the -pedestrian. I shall not now describe the church of the “Madonna degli -Angeli,” nor the neighbouring town of Assisi, at which latter, I -subsequently made a sojourn of some weeks, but will at once pass on to -Perugia, a large Etruscan town, romantically perched upon the summit -of a lofty hill, and very strongly fortified. Our old Vetturino was -obliged to avail himself<span class="pagenum" id="Page_277">[Pg 277]</span> of the aid of two heavy oxen to assist us up -the steep ascent which had once frightened Hannibal, and it was near -the hour of Ave Maria, when we were set down at the door of the Casa -Zanetti, a private house to which we had been strongly recommended. -These Italian boarding-houses, are a great accommodation to such as may -not like the bustle and expense of an inn, and are much frequented by -artists, who may thus find a quiet home and every possible attention, -in almost any part of the country. From three to five pauls, or fifteen -pence to two shillings a-day, is the price of board and lodging, -including bed, breakfast, dinner and supper, the meals being taken with -the family, and at regular hours.<a id="FNanchor_36" href="#Footnote_36" class="fnanchor">[36]</a></p> - -<p>Perugia, independently of its being a fine city, and architecturally -beautiful, offers great attractions to the artist, in the productions -of the celebrated Perugino, Guido, Andrea, Sacchi, and others. In -the church of <abbr title="saint">St.</abbr> Peter, which was one of my favourite haunts, is a -fine copy by Sasso Ferrata of a picture of Raffaelle’s, and some good -paintings by Vasari. In the choir are some specimens of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_278">[Pg 278]</span> wood-carving, -from designs by Raffaelle, which are exceedingly bold and clever. -Perugia is also the seat of a university, and boasts of many public -institutions, besides a museum, rich in Etruscan relics. I staid a -week with my friend Luish at the Casa Zanetti, where we were well -entertained, and made some very agreeable acquaintance, but the -rheumatism, which seemed in no degree alleviated by the exercise of -walking, induced me to press onwards, that I might the sooner obtain -medical advice. For a sum of eight <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">scudi</i>, including “pasta la -sera,” or bed and supper, we hired a rickety old machine, and a surly -driver, to convey us to Florence.</p> - -<p>For many miles after passing Magione, the first village beyond Perugia, -our road skirted the memorable lake of Thrasymene, famed for the bloody -exploits of Hannibal, and then, passing without difficulty the Tuscan -frontier, we breakfasted at the little village of Ossaja, which is said -to have taken its name from the bones of the slaughtered Romans. The -contrast between the rich vine-clad hills of Tuscany, and the barren -wastes of the dominions of the Pope, is very striking to the traveller, -whilst there is also a manifest difference in the appearance of the -inhabitants. Instead of the ugly squalid-looking wretches, and fierce -threatening<span class="pagenum" id="Page_279">[Pg 279]</span> looks, which had almost frightened us at Monterosi, we -were now greeted with passing smiles and happy faces, betokening a -feeling of contentment, quite unknown on the other side the frontier. -As we approached Arezzo, the fields on each side of us assumed the -appearance of a well-cultivated garden, and our ride was accompanied -with such varied and pleasurable emotions, that the futile endeavours -of our old coachman to urge on his jaded horse, and the miserably slow -pace at which we advanced, served rather to amuse us than otherwise. At -length we reached the clean and well-built Arezzo, the birth-place of -Vasari and Petrarca, and having been almost jolted to a jelly in our -miserable <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">legno</i>, were glad enough to swallow some supper and -retire early to our beds, in the hotel of la Posta.</p> - -<p>The following day brought us to Florence.</p> - - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_36" href="#FNanchor_36" class="label">[36]</a> At Amalfi, there is a locanda, where the above, with -washing included, may be had at eight pauls, or exactly sixpence a-day, -each person!!</p> - -</div> -</div> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_280">[Pg 280]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXII">CHAPTER XXII.</h2> -</div> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>THE “PORTA ROSSA”—JOURNEY TO BOLOGNA—THE BELLI -ARTI—ARCADES—CERTOSA—OUR FELLOW-TRAVELLERS—THE PARROT—AUSTRIAN -DOUANE—FERRARA—PADUA—CAFFE PEDROCCHI—VENICE—THE CASA -RAFFAELLI—GONDOLAS—LUISH’S PROFESSIONAL PURSUITS—MY FRIEND D. -AGAIN—TITIAN—MILITARY SALUTE—THE PASSEGGIATA.</p> -</div> - - -<p>Arrived at “Firenze la bella,” we drove to an inn called <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">La Porta -Rossa</i>, which had been recommended to us by a Roman acquaintance. -Here I met my friends Bellamy and Dickson, who were on their way -northward, and in an adjoining house, I discovered Vetch, of -water-colour celebrity, who kindly undertook to introduce me to <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> -P——, an English physician, resident in Florence. This gentleman -advised my proceeding without delay to Venice, to take mud-baths, and -gave me an introductory letter to the Herr T——g, a German doctor of -extensive practice. Luish, although loth to quit Florence with only a -single day’s loitering in its wonderful galleries, was too kind to let -me start off alone, and we accordingly booked two places in the Orchesi -diligence to Bologna. It was late in the afternoon,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_281">[Pg 281]</span> when we quitted -the <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">Lung’ Arno</i>, as the quay along the south bank of the river is -denominated. As the evening closed in, we were accompanied by a swarm -of fire-flies, which flew in and out of the open windows of the coupé, -and were exceedingly brilliant. Luish caught one as we walked up a -hill, and having kept it until it was quite dark, we found that it gave -out sufficient light to enable us to see the time. We gradually lost -sight of them as we approached the more lofty ground of the chain of -Appenines, and it soon became so cold, that we were glad to use all the -clothing we could muster.</p> - -<p>At Bologna we staid one day, being anxious to see its Accademia. The -Bolognese school of painting numbers among its disciples some of the -highest professors of the art. The four Caracci, and their followers -Domenichino and Guercino, as well as Guido and Albani, with whose death -the art of painting declined in Italy, were of this school, and all -natives of Bologna.</p> - -<p>In the Accademia, are some beautiful pictures. The <i><abbr title="saint">St.</abbr> Agnes</i> of -Domenichino, the <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">Madonna della Pietà</i>, by Guido, and Raffaelle’s -<i><abbr title="saint">St.</abbr> Cecilia</i>, are wonderful. The <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">Pere Eternel</i>, by -Guercino, said to have been commenced and finished in one night, -although to my thinking, a subject none<span class="pagenum" id="Page_282">[Pg 282]</span> should dare to attempt, is an -extraordinary production. Guido’s <i>Massacre of the Innocents</i> is -also a beautiful composition.</p> - -<p>The arcades which line both sides of nearly every street in Bologna, -although very convenient in wet weather, render the town dark and -gloomy, and having peeped into its finest churches, and clambered with -much labour to the summit of the leaning tower of Asinelli, I spent -with Luish a great part of the afternoon, in the interesting Certosa, -or Campo Santo, formed by Napoleon, about a mile out of the city, from -a destroyed convent of Carthusians. Its aisles and corridors are now -filled with tombs and monuments, and the resting-places of the dead -are interspersed with shrubs and flowers, forming an instructive, if -not to all tastes, an agreeable promenade. The Bolognese are so fond -of arcades, that they have constructed one three miles in length, a -continuous covered portico, from the city to the summit of a hill -called <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">La Guardia</i>, where there is a temple dedicated to the -Madonna of that name. Luish would not be satisfied until he had -explored the whole of it. I managed a portion of the distance, but -finding it very up-hill and fatiguing work, returned to the carriage at -the foot of the arcade, and waited for him.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_283">[Pg 283]</span></p> - -<p>At a caffé in the evening we were accosted by a smart-looking -Vetturino, who offered us seats for Padua, to start at one the next -afternoon, staying a night at Ferrara. He had already arranged with -two other travellers, and finding his terms sufficiently moderate, we -closed with his offer. The next morning was spent in the Accademia, and -punctual to his appointment, Gioachino picked us up at the “Pension -Suisse.” We found our travelling companions to be two of our own -countrymen; one of them a Captain ——, returning from India, who -was bringing home, among other curiosities, a valuable parrot, whose -talking-qualifications caused us considerable amusement. We found -Ferrara so crowded with travellers, that one room at the hotel was all -our Vetturino could procure for us, and the honest fellow seemed quite -mortified at the want of accommodation. The landlord, however, did -all he could to serve us, and as we were disposed to make the best of -everything, we did ample justice to his cheer, and drawing lots to see -who should get the beds, and who the shake-downs, passed an undisturbed -night, and were called by the parrot in the morning.</p> - -<p>Soon after leaving Ferrara, we crossed the river Po on a flying -bridge, propelled from side to side by the current,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_284">[Pg 284]</span> and entering the -Lombardo-Venetian kingdom, were pulled up at the Emperor’s dogana, by -the fierce whiskerando on duty. It was still early in the morning, -and the head officer was in no very good humour at being knocked up -at so unconstitutional an hour, and kept us a long time kicking our -heels under the covered <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">douane</i>. We tried hard to conceal the -parrot, which was a contraband article, and, enclosed as it was in a -small cage, covered with a handkerchief, and on the top of the vehicle, -I think it possible it might have escaped detection, had it not, on -hearing its master’s voice, croaked out lustily in sound English, -a desire for some hot brandy and water, bestowing at the same time -some hearty curses upon an imaginary waiter. <em>We</em> exploded with -laughter, whilst the <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">chef de douane</i>, who was ignorant from -whence the strange voice proceeded, glanced around from under his -shaggy eye-brows, and soon detected the hitherto unnoticed package. -To hand it down was but the work of a moment, but the officer who -untied the wrapper, received a bite that he would long remember. Poll’s -vocal powers expanded with the restoration of daylight, and no sooner -did she see her master, than she treated us with a variation from -“Merrily danced,” in so shrill and amusing a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_285">[Pg 285]</span> key, that good humour -was restored on all hands saving that of the bitten searcher. Captain -—— having paid the necessary tax, and reconsigned his loquacious bird -to the roof, we again resumed our journey, reaching Padua at five in -the afternoon. We drove to the “Principe Carlo,” a hotel overlooking -the Prato della Valle, where the accommodation is excellent. It is, -however, at rather an inconvenient distance from the omnibus station, -and busy portion of the city, for alas! the learned repose of “Fair -Padua, nursery of Arts,” is now disturbed by the shriek of the -locomotive, and the rumbling of railway traffic.</p> - -<p>By the time our dinner was over it was quite dark, and we could -therefore see little of this venerable city. We walked to the Caffé -Pedrocchi, unquestionably the finest in Europe: no expense seems to -have been spared in its decorations, which are of a style more suited -to a regal dwelling than a place of public resort. It is one glare of -mirrors, gilding, and polished marbles. Many are the stories current -respecting the origin of the wealth which enabled the Signor Pedrocchi -to raise so gorgeous a palace. Certain it is, that from a state of -comparative poverty, he all at once leapt into possession of a large -sum of money,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_286">[Pg 286]</span> and commenced the erection of the new Caffé, paying his -workmen in good old Venetian sequins, a fact which led his friends to -infer, that in demolishing the old establishment, he had stumbled upon -one of those fabulous monsters, a crock of real gold. This is possibly -the fact, but it is to be regretted that he placed this monument of his -good luck in so mean a situation, where its architectural merits, (if -it possess any!) are very much in the shade.</p> - -<p>We took the first train the next morning to Maestre, from whence -we embarked in a gondola-omnibus for the Venetian custom-house. -The transition from the main land to the marshy Lagune, is almost -imperceptible, and in the space of a few short months we shall be -fizzed all the way into Venice, and this most beautiful of cities, this -“Sea Cybele” will then have lost half its romance. It is to be hoped -that this useful, but unpicturesque innovation will never be suffered -to encroach beyond the outermost limits of the city, and that Venice -may lose none of its originality by the somewhat unnecessary extension -of the railway across the lagune. After passing through the Dogana, -and bidding “<i lang="it" xml:lang="it">a rividerci</i>,” to our companions of the vettura, my -friend and I hired a gondola to convey us to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_287">[Pg 287]</span> the “Leone Bianco,” a -hotel at which I had passed a few pleasant days some eight years before.</p> - -<p>In the evening we walked to the Piazza di San Marco, as the surest -spot to meet with such of our acquaintance as might have arrived from -Rome. It was unnecessary to make an elaborate search,—a white hat, -whose capacious leaf might have roused envy in the breast of a West -India planter, shone out conspicuously from among the thickly occupied -benches of the “Florian,” and revealed to us the presence of our friend -Mack, who had quitted Rome some weeks before us, on a summer-tour. -This gentleman informed us where we should at once find apartments, -and introduced us to his landlord, the Signor Raffaelli, living in a -commodious house, at the Campo San Vio, about a stone’s-throw from -the Accademia, on the Grand Canal. We rowed thither the next day, and -taking possession of our rooms, had time to look about us. Not only is -Venice unlike any other city in the world, in respect of its peculiar -position; but every thing Venetian seems to possess a distinct and -particular charm, that indefinable <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">non so che</i>, belonging to -<em>it</em> only, even to the most ordinary common-places of life. No -description could arouse in the mind of one who has not visited Venice, -any<span class="pagenum" id="Page_288">[Pg 288]</span> adequate idea of the feelings of delight and enthusiasm excited by -all around. These feelings are increased rather than diminished by a -lengthened stay. Moore must have viewed Venice through a pair of very -dull spectacles indeed when he wrote about—</p> - -<p class="poetry"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“—— her true, real, dismal state,</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Her mansions closed and desolate,</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Her foul canals, exhaling wide</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Such fetid airs as— * *</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">* * * * *</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Seem like a city where the pest</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Is holding her last visitation.”</span><br /> -</p> - -<p>An occasional bad odour may certainly be detected in some of the more -obscure canals during hot weather, but there can be no reason for -supposing that this was not always the case, even in the palmiest days -of the Republic.<a id="FNanchor_37" href="#Footnote_37" class="fnanchor">[37]</a> If we pitch poetry aside, and come to plain matter -of fact, we shall find, that whatever Venice may once have been, it is -still a port of very considerable importance. Merchant vessels from all -parts of the world are to be found at the quays of San Giorgio and the -Giudecca, whilst a brisk trade is kept up between it<span class="pagenum" id="Page_289">[Pg 289]</span> and the other -ports of the Mediterranean. Nor are its manufactures to be forgotten; -the busy furnaces of Murano supply the whole world with glass beads -and dolls’ eyes; the region of the Rialto furnishes half Italy with -jewellery, and the glittering Merceria dazzles the eye with its costly -wares, and reeks with all the varied odours of extravagant perfumery.</p> - -<p>It was on the second-floor of the Casa Raffaelli, that Luish and I -were domiciled. A large saloon with a spacious balcony overhanging the -Grand Canal, into which room all the other apartments opened, served as -the <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">sala commune</i> for ourselves and the family of our landlord. -This, as well as our bed-rooms, was paved with a plum-pudding-like -scaliguola, which ensured a far cooler and cleaner floor than the dusty -carpets of Rome, which usually have an underlayer of straw or hay to -preserve them from wear against the hard brick or concrete. The room -which fell to my lot, had a side view over the Campo or Square of San -Vio, and the window commanded a good stretch of the Grand Canal, in the -direction of the Rialto. My first care was to inquire for Herr T——g, -the doctor to whom I had a letter of introduction, and I was agreeably -surprised to find that he lived exactly opposite to us, on<span class="pagenum" id="Page_290">[Pg 290]</span> the other -side the Canal, and that there was a <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">traghetto</i> or ferry, -between the two houses. I paid him an early visit during a paroxysm of -rheumatic pain, and though he did not recommend me to have recourse to -mud-baths, he gave me some hope of relief.</p> - -<p>The next preliminary was the procuring of a <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">carta di sicurezza</i>, -without which the stranger in an Italian town would soon find himself -in difficulty. It serves as a local passport, (the original document -remaining in the care of the police authorities,) and requires a -renewal every month. In order to obtain this, it was necessary that -Luish and myself should possess a recommendation from some resident in -the city, an obligation which was very kindly rendered by <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> H., the -American Consul.</p> - -<p>As the Herr T——g’s treatment prohibited the use of more exercise -than was necessary, I hired a gondola and <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">barcaruolo</i>, paying a -Napoleon a-week for the boat and the man’s time. I was fortunate in -my selection, inasmuch as I found Antonio steady, honest and skilful, -and his gondola one of the very best description. It is only those -who have tried it that can imagine the luxury of skimming the smooth -water in a well-managed gondola. No other species of locomotion -is to be compared to it. I<span class="pagenum" id="Page_291">[Pg 291]</span> almost lived in one, and during the -course of my stay in Venice, there were very few of its canals that -I did not thoroughly explore. Securely moored to one or other of -the quaint-looking posts, which form so prominent a feature in the -foregrounds of Prout and Canaletti, I passed the mornings in sketching. -And what spot can furnish more beautiful and diversified subjects than -Venice, where every turn reveals some fresh scene, and every canal -abounds with palaces and churches, or picturesque masses of building. -The chimney-pots alone are a study, and the genius of John of Bologna -is apparent, even in the knockers and scrapers at the street doors. The -former were the peculiar delight of my companion Luish, who passed all -his mornings on the roofs of the Venetian palaces, perched astride on -the leads, or half concealed in an eave-gutter from his fellow-mortals, -himself exposed to all the fierceness of a vertical sun. The -“<i lang="it" xml:lang="it">piombi</i>” of Silvio Pellico were nothing to the voluntary -martyrdom of my friend, who daguerreotyped all the chimney-pots in -“New Tyre,” and took portraits of all such knockers as had escaped the -wrench of his countrymen, for, in shame be it spoken, the mania for -midnight fooleries has extended even to the shores of the Adriatic.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_292">[Pg 292]</span></p> - -<p>I was returning one morning from sketching, when I was surprised, and -almost alarmed by the apparition of our facetious friend D., who had -just arrived from the South. He had already got into apartments on the -Grand Canal, with two brother artists who had accompanied him, and -seemed as fully bent as ever on the perpetration of new jokes. Stepping -into his gondola, which was a peculiarly neat one, and manned by two -red-scarfed Gondolieri in livery, we rowed off to the Accademia, where -we hoped to fall in with Mack and others. This collection contains -the finest specimens of the Venetian school of painting, famous more -particularly for its perfection of colour. Of this school, Titian is -the chief ornament. At the commencement of the sixteenth century, and -before his extraordinary talent was much known, this great painter held -an office under the Ducal government, and painted the portraits of -several successive doges. One of Barberigo, a Venetian noble, is said -to have first established Titian’s fame, and this at the early age of -eighteen, but it was not until he had secured the patronage of Alfonso, -Duke of Ferrara, that he began to derive any pecuniary benefit from -his works, and even this was so limited that he was always poor. It -remained for Charles the Fifth, who<span class="pagenum" id="Page_293">[Pg 293]</span> honoured Titian with his personal -friendship to establish thoroughly the renown of the great painter, -and at the court of that monarch, he passed many years of his life, -returning in his old age to his native land, where he was cut off by -the plague which visited Venice in 1576.</p> - -<p>The “Accademia dei belli arti,” contains Titian’s most celebrated -picture—the Assumption of the Virgin. This is unquestionably one -of the finest productions in the world, perhaps second only to the -“Transfiguration” of Raffaelle in the Vatican. Many artists were -engaged in making copies of this painting at the time of our visit. -Most of these were very faithful imitations of the great original, but -we were more particularly struck with one by an American artist, whose -picture when finished, was to serve as an altar-piece in his native -town of Cincinnati. The accuracy of the drawing was extreme, while the -colouring of such portions as were finished was the admiration of all, -and K—— had seldom the satisfaction of pursuing his art in peace and -quiet. The facilities afforded to young artists at Venice, in the way -of copying, are very great, and might be advantageously adopted by the -authorities of some other and larger galleries in the north of Italy.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_294">[Pg 294]</span></p> - -<p>Besides the works of Titian, there are pictures by Paul Veronese, and -Giorgione, Pordenone and Tintoretto, and a host of other painters of -this particular school, which it is needless to describe. There are -also many private galleries in Venice, all of which possess more or -less attraction for the lovers of the art, and are easily accessible.</p> - -<p>Having devoted an hour or two to the <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">Belli Arti</i>, I followed -D. to his gondola, and was not a little surprised as we passed the -soldiers on duty there, to see them formally present arms. Never -before had the “<i lang="it" xml:lang="it">cinque cento</i>” beaver, and black velvet paletot -produced so great a sensation. I had remarked a similar proceeding as -we ascended the steps leading to the Accademia, but concluded that some -great man had passed up unnoticed by us. The salute was now undoubtedly -intended for ourselves, but what could possibly induce it. D. declared -he had been treated in a similar way at the Police-office, and some -other places, and thought the fellows were trying to make a fool of -him. The cause was soon explained. The gondola which he had hired, -at the recommendation of the waiter at his hotel, belonged to the -Principessa G——, who had quitted Venice a few weeks previously on a -journey, and the plate-glass windows were blazoned with the arms of her -family. The<span class="pagenum" id="Page_295">[Pg 295]</span> mistake never occurred when the windows were not drawn -out. It appears that when a family leaves the city, their gondolas, -instead of being locked up in the boat-house, are let out on hire by -their retainers: this is sometimes done with the consent of the owner, -as in the present instance, but it more frequently happens that the -servants turn the practice to their own account.</p> - -<p>The <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">Passeggiata</i>, or promenade, is an interesting sight, and one -may there witness the perfection of gondola management. These occur -usually twice in the week, the spot chosen being either the clear -portion of the Giudecca, opposite the Riva delle Zattere, or under the -public gardens, in the Canal of <abbr title="saint">St.</abbr> Marc. The surface of the water is -then covered with the noiseless and graceful vehicles of Venice, whose -sombre-looking coverings have been removed, that the fair occupants -may the more readily be seen and admired. Here also is the open -<i lang="it" xml:lang="it">barca</i>, with its striped canopy of red and white, contrasting -pleasantly with the sable hue of the old regime, whose colour no one -has yet been sufficiently bold to depart from. All the boats are rowed -by two men, as none would appear at the <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">passeggiata</i> with a -single gondolier. Speed is a great desideratum, and all is rushing and -gliding—the <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">barcaruoli</i> seem in their own<span class="pagenum" id="Page_296">[Pg 296]</span> proper element, and -vie with each other in parading their skill, cutting and cleaving with -their sharp prows, or dashing along in one mass, like a vast floating -raft of gondolas. The forward rower having no room to ply his oar, -quietly unships it, and leaves to the other the task of keeping up the -motion, and now the forced propinquity to the fair occupants of other -gondolas is agreeably perplexing, and a severe tax is imposed upon -the watchfulness of maiden aunts, and sharp-sighted duennas, (who can -detect in a moment the faintest <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">occhiata</i>,) for the hook of a -walking-cane, if used as a grapnel, will keep you firmly alongside, -and within whispering distance, of the fairest belle of Venice. At -the turning point, all is confusion, as each gondolier is striving to -tack as short as possible, and get the lead. The spray raised by the -hundreds of busy oars, glistens in the rays of the declining sun, and -splashes unceremoniously into the faces of the <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">promeneurs</i>. The -strains of Mercadante and Verdi mingle with the salt breeze of the -lagune, which may here be enjoyed in all its purity. It is untainted -even by the presence of a solitary cigar. No one smokes at the -<i lang="it" xml:lang="it">passeggiata</i>; it is not <em>the thing</em>. And then we all get -fixed again into a mass, but on looking round, we find we have lost the -fair face<span class="pagenum" id="Page_297">[Pg 297]</span> which had so charmed us during the last <em>course</em>. Our -next-door neighbours are, on one side, the great French lady, who takes -four daily breakfasts at the Florian, and on the other, a boat-load of -Austrian officers, who are enjoying a forced reprieve from their pipes. -The walking-cane is at a discount, so giving a wink to Antonio, and a -sly push to the gondolas of the officers and fat lady, we hasten to -take up a more advantageous position.</p> - - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_37" href="#FNanchor_37" class="label">[37]</a> For many months I had rooms in a court opening out of the -Frezzaria, one of the most thickly populated thoroughfares of Venice, -and although my bed-room looked out over a canal of most questionable -appearance, I cannot recollect having ever remarked any unpleasant -exhalation.</p> - -</div> -</div> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_298">[Pg 298]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXIII">CHAPTER XXIII.</h2> -</div> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>THE CAFFES OF VENICE—THE “FLORIAN”—THE “IMPERATORE -D’AUSTRIA”—PIAZZA—VENETIAN HAWKERS—MUSICIANS—MERCHANTS -OF CAROMEL—THE SCHIAVONI—ITALIAN CARDS—THE BIRRARIE—SAN -MOISE—AN ACCORDEON PLAYER—QUINTAVALLE—QUEER -FISH—DINING-ROOMS—SERENADES—NIGHT ON THE GRAND CANAL—THE -RIALTO—SAN LAZZARO—MALAMOCCO—CHIOGGIA—CAPTAIN ROVERE IN DANGER.</p> -</div> - - -<p>As I have devoted some few pages to the <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">trattorie</i> and -coffee-houses of Rome, it would hardly be fair to leave those of Venice -unnoticed. Every one knows the peculiar appearance of the Piazza di San -Marco, with its oriental-looking church and lofty bell-tower, and its -rows of glittering arcades. Under one of these porticoes, whose massive -columns support the building called the <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">Procuratie Nuove</i>, is -the Caffé Florian, a house which has been but once closed for the -night, during the last hundred years. It has indeed no doors, unless -a few glass frames, to keep out the cold winds of winter, can be so -denominated. This is the quietest and most fashionable of the Venetian -Caffés, and being also the most expensive, is much patronized by the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_299">[Pg 299]</span> -English, and others who visit the city. There are others on each side -of the Florian, and in other parts of the square, but none of equal -repute. Near the south-west corner of the Piazza, is a modest-looking -little house, with the imposing title of the “Imperatore d’Austria.” -I tried almost all the caffés in the square before I could make up my -mind which was the most eligible, and decided at last upon taking my -morning meal at the quarters of the great Ferdinando, where I generally -fell in with some one or other of my acquaintance.</p> - -<p>The Piazza di San Marco, is the most agreeable of breakfast parlours: -turn which way you will, something amusing is sure to present itself. -Itinerant vendors of odd wares wait upon you every two or three -minutes, and no sooner are you fairly seated, and commencing the -perusal of some article in the day’s journal, than a dirty-looking -fellow flings at your feet a large wooden box, and keeps a steady eye -on your boots. This is your Venetian shoeblack. Then a handsome woman -with a wide Leghorn hat, presents you with three pinks and a daisy, -tied up with white thread, and retires with a low curtsey. This is -your purveyor of flowers during the period of your stay, and clever -indeed will you be if you can escape from Venice without paying<span class="pagenum" id="Page_300">[Pg 300]</span> a -heavy flower-rate. Next comes a tray-full of shells and seaweed, -with an announcement of “<i>Doe Zwanziger tooto</i>,”<a id="FNanchor_38" href="#Footnote_38" class="fnanchor">[38]</a> on the -part of a half-drunken old sailor, who will never cease to dunn and -bore you until you have either purchased or capsized his trumpery. -Do not think for a moment that you will be allowed to swallow that -coffee in peace,—the short lady who has just turned the corner is the -Jewess Carolina, and you instinctively feel that you are victimized -to the extent of a cotton shirt and two or three handkerchiefs. This -is your hosier and draper, “by appointment.” A cigar is next thrust -close to your face, with a confidential whisper of “<i lang="it" xml:lang="it">Contrabbando -Signore!</i>” This is your cigar merchant, who grows, manufactures, and -brands his own <em>tobaccos (!)</em> in the neighbouring island of the -Giudecca.</p> - -<p>In the evening you will find that most of the hawkers have disappeared, -although their places are usurped by others, whose <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">mestieri</i> -are to some, quite as annoying. The new comers are for the most part -musical, and fill up the interludes between the performances of the -Kinski band, though there is one young lady, who presumes upon the -strength of a shrill, false voice, and tinny-sounding guitar, to -introduce a Venetian canzonetta into one ear, whilst<span class="pagenum" id="Page_301">[Pg 301]</span> “I Lombardi,” or -“Nabuco,” are poured into the other. No sooner have the band finished -the last piece on the programme, than a flute and two fiddles enter -upon the scene. One of the latter, the violino primo, is exceedingly -clever, and plays all over the instrument, and behind his back, and -<em>looks</em>, and I have no doubt fancies that he <em>is</em>, a second -Paganini. At all events, he is an admirable violinist, and if his -harmony is correct, his marvellous ways of producing it are hardly -to be censured. His companion is a young girl, who is also a clever -performer, though to my mind, the violin seems out of place when in the -hands of a female.</p> - -<p>I must not omit to mention the vendors of <i>Caromel</i>, who glide -about the caffés in the evening, with large dishes of this really -eatable commodity. It consists of various sorts of ripe fruits, coated -with a transparent covering of sugar, and that your finger-ends may -not come in contact with the candy, the merchant presents you with a -large tooth-pick of lance-wood, with which you impale a peach, plum, -or bunch of grapes, as the case may be, paying about one halfpenny -<i lang="it" xml:lang="it">per pezzo</i>. The scene in the Piazza about the hour of twilight, -is very unique and striking,—the centre of the square and the arcades -which surround it on three<span class="pagenum" id="Page_302">[Pg 302]</span> sides, serve as a promenade, the latter -being brilliantly lighted with gas, both from the shops and caffés, and -from lamps hung at the centre of each arch. At the “Florian,” and the -“Militaire,” immediately opposite, there are chairs provided for such -as prefer listening to the regimental music, and cooling themselves -with <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">acqua marena</i>.<a id="FNanchor_39" href="#Footnote_39" class="fnanchor">[39]</a> Nearer the Piazzetta is a small caffé -frequented almost exclusively by Greeks and Smyrniotes, whose outrè -costume contrasts strangely with the less showy dress of the Italians. -These get away as far as they can from the music, which hath but little -charms for them. Cherrystick pipes, and the rattle of dominoes are far -more to their taste, and in these do they indulge, until the approach -of midnight recalls them to their vessels.</p> - -<p>Let us now wander from the Piazzetta, to the neighbouring <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">Riva dei -Schiavoni</i>, where as soon as we have passed the Hotel Danielli, we -shall come upon a scene quite as original and no less amusing than that -of San Marco. Here is a whole host of coffee-shops of a second-rate -character, frequented by mariners, and the lower order of Venetians. -Forms are arranged under awnings of canvas, which serve as a shelter -both from the fierce sun, and the cold sea wind.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_303">[Pg 303]</span> Here also may be seen -the <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">caromel</i> merchant, but his appearance is less scrupulously -clean than that of old Gigi of the Piazza, whose jean jacket and white -apron are upon a par with the quality of his fruit. On the Schiavoni -there are little open-air theatres and peep-shows, and Cassandro -goes through his performance many times every evening, to amuse a -laughing crowd of old women and boys. At the open doors of the marine -store dealers, whole families play at cards, and squabble over greasy -effigies of swords and spoons, instead of spades and diamonds, totally -heedless of the crowd of persons who pass by them in a continued -stream, between San Marco and the busy neighbourhood of Castello and -the docks.</p> - -<p>In connexion with other places of public resort, I may mention the -<i lang="it" xml:lang="it">Birrarie</i> or supper-gardens, so much frequented by the middle -class of Venetians. Of these, perhaps the most patronized is that -of the Campo San Moisè, where, on a fine evening, the beer-shop of -the Saint is filled with respectable citizens, and their wives and -daughters. Venice is famed for its good beer, which, by the way, is -a commodity very different from that brewed by us, being there a -wholesome and refreshing beverage and used only as such. The Birraria -of San Moisè, is a little plot of ground entirely<span class="pagenum" id="Page_304">[Pg 304]</span> hemmed in by -surrounding houses, and ornamented with trellis-work and creepers. -The walls are painted in the quaint style of fresco, peculiar to the -gardens of Italy, representing lakes and mountains, and fierce bandits -peeping over rocks, with delightful villas and terraces, and gigantic -vases of aloes. At the far end is a Roman scene, painted by Signor -Caffi, which is very cleverly executed, and throws into the shade the -fabulous monstrosities of the side walls. Here one may meet with the -<i lang="it" xml:lang="it">bistecca Inglese</i>, intended, as its name implies, to represent -the genuine beef-steak, and is invariably the first item mentioned by -the waiter, to every customer in a straw hat and a blouse. It ranks -in the same class with the French “biftek,” and is served in molten -butter. The musicians I have already mentioned, as well as a host of -singers and improvisatori, make the round of the Birrarie, when they -have finished with the Piazza, and I noticed for many weeks among -other retailers of sweet sounds, an accordéon player who had arrived -as near to perfection as the powers of his instrument would allow. -I had the curiosity one evening to question him, and discovered to -my astonishment, that he had manufactured it entirely himself. He -had been bound apprentice to a barber in Padua, and had taken as a -bad debt from<span class="pagenum" id="Page_305">[Pg 305]</span> some brother chin-scraper, an imperfect and damaged -accordeon, one of the earliest that had found its way across the Alps -from Germany. Thenceforward his whole time was devoted to the study of -his new instrument. Having a quick ear and ready hand, he soon managed -to repair it, and running away from his master, who was in truth quite -tired of his perpetual grinding, he played about in the streets till he -had earned enough to buy some tools, and then came to Venice, where he -shortly manufactured a perfect instrument. I visited him at his house -in the Castello, and found him busy at work, and to judge from the -neatness of his rooms, and the appearance of his wife and children, I -should say he blows his bellows at the various Birrarie to very good -purpose.</p> - -<p>The Blackwall of Venice is a spot called Quintavalle, where, at a -dirty little house, close to the shore, the lovers of fish may find -it in great variety. Sardelli will be found an excellent substitute -for white-bait, and require neither punch, nor brown bread and butter, -while the <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">Calamajo</i> is a delicacy which may be had here in -perfection. This curious fish is caught in great quantity in the -lagunes, and at the Lido. I have seen whole acres of them hung up to -dry in the sun, while the ground has been stained<span class="pagenum" id="Page_306">[Pg 306]</span> black with their -liquid seppia. We generally repaired to Quintavalle, after any little -squall or interval of bad weather, at which times fish were plentiful, -and not unfrequently would the landlord astonish us with the sight of -some extraordinary monster of the deep, which had been driven into the -shallows, and found its way into the nets with the smaller fry. The old -man is a collector of these odd fish, which he preserves in spirits, to -adorn his rooms.</p> - -<p>No one would willingly leave his hotel to dine in a Venetian trattoria, -saving for the sake of curiosity, as their appearance is, for the most -part, anything but inviting. But with those that betake themselves -to furnished apartments, and have neither kitchen nor cook, the -case is different, and we on the far side of the Grand Canal, were -necessitated either to get our meal at the cook-shop, or go without -it. We tried, I believe, nearly all the eating-houses in Venice, and -carried our researches to an extent, that in such a cause, would have -been perfectly absurd, had we not, during these voyages of discovery, -very thoroughly explored the city. We got, indeed, little other benefit -by our trouble, as no restaurant proved so clean and comfortable, as -that of the Caffé Haus, in a little square<span class="pagenum" id="Page_307">[Pg 307]</span> just out of <abbr title="saint">St.</abbr> Marc’s, and -exactly opposite the house once occupied by Canova.</p> - -<p>Shortly after my arrival in Venice, I was present at a grand -passeggiata, got up by the Italian artists, in honour of Prince -Frederic, and the Due de Modene. These nocturnal serenades occur only -in the season, when Venice is full of visitors, and on this occasion, -the display was more than usually grand, on account of the exalted -rank of the strangers who were to assist. A large barge, suitably -fitted up with seats, and having on board the necessary accommodation -for a portion of the Kinski band, was towed from the Piazzetta at -about ten o’clock, into the Grand Canal, surrounded by some hundred -of gondolas. The night was literally as dark as pitch, but we had no -sooner passed the Dogana, than a light was exhibited from the prow of -the barge, which would almost have shamed the “Bude.” At the same time -arose a burst of music, which re-echoed from the palaces on either -side, attracting their inmates to the balconies. The noble Church of -the “<i lang="it" xml:lang="it">Salute</i>” was illumined from the water’s edge to the figure -of Charity surmounting the cupola, the more prominent portions of its -architectural features, standing out in bright relief from the black -shadows. But the effect was of short duration: in another<span class="pagenum" id="Page_308">[Pg 308]</span> minute we -were again enveloped in the darkness, relieved at intervals by a blaze -of light from the palace windows.</p> - -<p>As we passed up the canal, our already large fleet of gondolas was -increased by the accession of others, which put off from all quarters -to join us. Vocal serenades were performed under particular windows, -by a chorus of well-accorded voices, and the famous <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">cantatrice</i> -La Frezzolina Poggi, was favoured with one of particular brilliancy, -as well as a display of various coloured lights, which created a -beautiful effect upon the surrounding objects. Continuing our course, -we paused under the Rialto, illuminating its spacious arch with a -blaze of fireworks, and causing it to resound with so formidable -and doubly encored a <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">barcarole</i>, that I fear some of the more -quietly disposed of that region, must have thrust their heads under -the clothes, and grumbled “<i lang="it" xml:lang="it">Seccatura!</i>” even if they did not go -so far as to wish us all consigned to the same watery depth as the -fastidious Count in “Beppo.” Having made the <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">giro</i> of the Grand -Canal, and back again to the Piazzetta, those on the barge adjourned to -their supper, and Luish and I to our beds.</p> - -<p>Venice is certainly the very spot of all others for serenades, and a -summer night seldom passes, but the twanging of guitars and mandolins -may be heard in her quiet canals.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_309">[Pg 309]</span> If the echoes of Tasso are no longer -extant, the gondoliers of the present day are equally familiar with -“<i lang="it" xml:lang="it">Com’e gentil!</i>” and “<i lang="it" xml:lang="it">Or’ che in cielo</i>,” one or other of -which generally “meets the ear” of any one dwelling upon the Grand -Canal, in the course of an evening. No matter how poor the voice, or -wretched the melody, the Venetian lady never fails to acknowledge with -courtesy the compliment thus intended, unless indeed, as sometimes -happens, the serenade emanates from a pair of lungs too palpably coarse -and plebeian to arouse any feeling of pleasure or obligation, in which -case the nocturnal disturber either exhausts himself before bare walls -and dark balconies, or is unhesitatingly told to <em>move on</em>.</p> - -<p>During my sojourn in Venice, I made, with others of my friends, many -excursions to the neighbouring islands. We visited Murano and its -wonderful glass works, and the more interesting San Lazzaro, with -its Armenian convent and happy brotherhood. It was here that Lord -Byron spent a considerable portion of his time in the study of the -Armenian language, and the brethren still speak of him in terms of much -enthusiasm. We saw the library and printing office, and walked through -the flower gardens, enjoying the delicious breeze, and the views<span class="pagenum" id="Page_310">[Pg 310]</span> -which greeted us on all sides, of the bright islands of the lagune. An -expedition which we made to Chioggia, a town so famous in the earlier -annals of the Republic, and whose unintelligible patois, Goldoni has -placed in the mouths of some of his characters, was a more formidable -affair, as we had to make up a party, and charter a sailing barque -with four gondolieri. Quitting the piazzetta at six, we soon passed -the island of Malamocco, and coasted along under the extraordinary -breakwater reaching from that island to Chioggia, a lasting monument of -the spirit of enterprise possessed by the early Venetians. The voyage -of eighteen miles occupied about five hours, and at eleven we landed -at the grass-covered quay of the old town, now the abode of fishermen -and a few little shopkeepers. Had our party been a show of wild beasts, -we could scarcely have excited greater wonder among the Chioggians, of -whom a posse accompanied us in our ramble through the town, watching -our every movement as though we had suddenly dropped in among them -from some other sphere. Nor were they to us less objects of curiosity; -their quaint dresses and primitive appearance were very striking, and -our friend Harlen found in the market-place some excellent subjects -for his pencil. We<span class="pagenum" id="Page_311">[Pg 311]</span> searched in vain for an osteria where we might get -something by way of lunch, but entering a house where a dry bush was -hanging over the door-way, we found a good fire, and there fried some -fish which we had purchased in the market. Whilst making preparations -for our departure, we were greatly amused with the dexterity displayed -by some little urchins, who dived for <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">centesimi</i> or halfpence, -and staid so long under water, that they seemed amphibious. We had -a crowd of a score or more, many of whom took to the water without -waiting to throw off their clothing. He who was fortunate enough to -find a copper, was compelled to swim away to a distance to hide his -treasure, pursued by a shoal of his companions, who pressed after him -like dogs in an otter hunt.</p> - -<p>We had a brisk and favourable breeze on our return homewards, which -filled our large sail, and bore us merrily along. The water looked so -blue and tempting, that a dip was decided on, and as most of our party -were good swimmers, they unhesitatingly plunged in from the roof of -the covered cabin, having previously ascertained that the depth was -sufficient for diving. Captain Rovére, who remained in somewhat longer -than the rest, was unfortunately<span class="pagenum" id="Page_312">[Pg 312]</span> seized with cramp, and disappeared -before he could call out for aid. He was at once rescued from his -dangerous situation, by Flake, who had been watching him, and who, -half-dressed, jumped in again to his assistance. We reached Venice -about dusk.</p> - - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_38" href="#FNanchor_38" class="label">[38]</a> “Two Zwanzigers the lot.”</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_39" href="#FNanchor_39" class="label">[39]</a> A drink made of cherries, capillaire and iced water.</p> - -</div> -</div> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_313">[Pg 313]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXIV">CHAPTER XXIV.</h2> -</div> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>THE DUCAL PALACE—BRIDGE OF SIGHS—THE POZZI—CAMPANILE—VIEW -FROM THE SUMMIT—SWIFTS—THE PIGEONS OF ST. MARKS—DEPARTURE -FROM VENICE—THE ANCONA STEAMER—THE ADRIATIC—VICISSITUDES OF -A SEA-VOYAGE—THE UNFORTUNATE FRIAR—POLA—ITS ANTIQUITIES—THE -HOTEL—ANCONA—THE CUSTOM-HOUSE—DISAPPOINTMENT—A VILLAGE IN THE -APPENINES—FULIGNO—ASSISI—THE BOARDING-HOUSE—SAN FRANCESCO—MUSICAL -SHOEMAKERS—SPOLETO—MY COUNTRYWOMAN—TERNI—ROME.</p> -</div> - - -<p>I shall not describe the Ducal Palace with its <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">pozzi</i> and -<i lang="it" xml:lang="it">piombi</i>, its magnificent staircase and the Lion’s mouth, and the -once gloomy chambers of the Inquisition. All these have been too well -handled by professed tourists, to require any further observation on my -part, and I doubt not there are many living within five miles of <abbr title="saint">St.</abbr> -Paul’s, who possess a much clearer idea of the interior of San Marco, -with its apostle screen, gilt mosaics, and uneven pavement, than of the -noble monument to their own Sir Christopher. Suffice it to say, that -in company of some relatives whom I met in Venice, whose curiosity was -proof against difficulties that would altogether have taken <em>me</em> -aback, I<span class="pagenum" id="Page_314">[Pg 314]</span> succeeded not merely in peeping through the key-hole of the -fatal door, but in standing on the Bridge of Sighs. To effect this -negatively desirable object, we were compelled to penetrate to the -bureau of some functionary, holding a situation in the prison on the -other side, and having secured an old man with the key, we retraced our -steps to the Palace, and passed through the portal.</p> - -<p>The Ponte dei Sospiri consists of two distinct passages: by one the -accused was led before the Inquisitors, from whose presence he was -either conducted through the other to be strangled, or consigned by -the brutal and cowardly policy of that dark tribunal, to the perpetual -damps of the <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">Pozzi</i>, or subaqueous dungeons of the Ducal Palace. -The number of those who left the inquisition to be restored to the -light of day, was limited indeed: mercy or pardon were not among the -attributes of the so called, “Justice of <abbr title="saint">St.</abbr> Mark,” and the miserable -accused never experienced the benefit of a doubt. We shuddered in the -state dungeons, and crept through the damp and tortuous passages, -gazing with feelings of awe and horror at the iron grating, where so -many innocent victims had gasped the last unavailing appeal for mercy, -at the hands of their fellow-men.</p> - -<p>It is well worth a little trouble to ascend the Campanile<span class="pagenum" id="Page_315">[Pg 315]</span> of <abbr title="saint">St.</abbr> -Mark’s, from whose summit the view is unique, and should you happen to -be upon the platform at the hour of sunset, you will allow it to be -so to a very <em>striking</em> degree. The noise of the monstrous bells -is indeed almost deafening. Although Venice is intersected with small -canals, in every possible direction, it is extraordinary that but one -is visible from the summit of the bell-tower, a fact only accounted for -by the close proximity of the houses. Of the Grand Canal there are many -glimpses, while the various islands of the Lagune are seen from hence -to great advantage. All day and night there are watchmen at the top of -the Campanile, whose duty it is to give the alarm, in case of fire, -and from their great elevation, they are able at once to judge of its -precise locality. These worthies employ their leisure time in letting -fly small pieces of white paper, in order to observe the gambols of -the swifts, which are certainly most amusing. No sooner is a piece let -off, than it is pursued by a lot of these little birds, who appear to -scuffle and fight for its possession most lustily. Occasionally it is -impaled by the sharp beak of one of them, and thus forms a frill around -its neck, which leads to its destruction. Its efforts to disengage -itself are unavailing. No sooner has it donned its fatal necklace, than -a crowd of its fellows enter on the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_316">[Pg 316]</span> pursuit, and the poor bird is then -either pecked to death, or drops from sheer exhaustion on one of the -neighbouring roofs.</p> - -<p>The pigeons of <abbr title="saint">St.</abbr> Mark’s are proverbially respected, and many legends -are told concerning them. Some one, it appears, left as a legacy, a -sum of money to be exclusively devoted to the purchase of food for -these Penates of the Venetians, which are exceedingly numerous, and -swarm upon the roofs of the Church of <abbr title="saint">St.</abbr> Marc, and adjacent buildings. -They are fed every day precisely at noon, and no sooner do the bronze -figures on the Clock Tower swing round upon their pivots, in readiness -for the first stroke of twelve, than the air is partially darkened -by the clouds of pigeons, that sweep over the square, hitching and -perching upon the ledges and window-sills of the Procuratie Veechie. -Grain is then scattered from an open window, and although the sight is -of every day occurrence, the table-d’hôte of the pigeons is watched -with eagerness by the surrounding crowd. We were much struck with one -circumstance in connexion with these birds. On a certain day in the -year, all the clocks in the city are silent, and we expected that the -pigeons would have been nonplused. Never were we more mistaken. No -bell sounded, nor did the figures move,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_317">[Pg 317]</span> yet precisely as the gold -hands on the dial of the Clock Tower reached their zenith, the pigeons, -whose stomachs were not to be cheated, were seen flocking in from all -quarters to their usual meal.</p> - -<p>The weather becoming cooler, and having derived considerable benefit -from the advice and attention of <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> T——g, I began to think of -turning my face once more towards Rome, and never having been at -Ancona, resolved to take advantage of a little steamer plying between -that port and Venice two or three times a month. My friend Luish had -already set off with some acquaintance for Florence, and most of my -other associates were dispersed in different directions. I therefore -took leave of such few as remained, and engaged my berth at an office -in the Piazza. It appeared that I had chosen an unfavourable time for -making a sea-trip, as the weather had been for some days very stormy, -and on repairing on board, I was told by the captain, that he could -not venture to put out to sea that day. This happened three times in -succession, until I began to regret that I had paid my fare, for I -know few things more annoying than to be at loose ends in a place, -with your portmanteau packed, your bedroom let to another occupant, -and yourself uncertain at what moment you may be called<span class="pagenum" id="Page_318">[Pg 318]</span> upon to join -your ship. On the third day we got off at the hour of noon, with about -twenty-five passengers, all bound for Ancona, the majority of whom were -priests and monks; but there was also a German artist with his family, -of the name of Heinrich, whom I found very agreeable. We had not been -long in the Adriatic, before our captain seemed bitterly to regret -that he had left the friendly shallows of the lagunes. Our ill-built -little steamer, rolled uneasily in the heavy sea, and as night closed -in, we had anything but a pleasant prospect before us. Most of the -passengers were soon rendered insensible to the peril of our situation: -prostrated by sea-sickness they lay stretched upon the deck, careless -alike of the combat of the elements, and of the torrents of salt water -which swept over us, and poured down the badly-closed hatchways. Not -being myself a sufferer in this respect, I was enabled to render some -little assistance to the wife and little girls of the Herr Heinrich, -and managed with some difficulty to get them stowed away, three in a -berth, in one of the upper bed-places. The sailors declared that the -monks, who had betaken themselves to their beads, were the cause of -our ill-luck, while the captain, who appeared a poor weak-minded man, -lost all command over himself and ship, and indulged in deep potations. -The<span class="pagenum" id="Page_319">[Pg 319]</span> sailors, however, stuck unflinchingly to their duty, and in this -state of affairs I went below to see if I could get any rest. The water -was rolling about in the cabin, and hat-boxes and other light packages -were carried hither and thither in the utmost confusion. The pitching -of the vessel was quite fearful, and even had my fears allowed of -my sleeping, any attempt thereat would have been absurd. I squeezed -myself, however, into a berth, and had only just done so, when, by a -sudden lurch, an enormously exaggerated friar, who had been lying in a -state of semi-torpor immediately above me, toppled out of his berth, -and upsetting in his descent the table, which was loaded with clothes -and other articles, splashed heavily into the water beneath. A minute -sooner, and I must have been annihilated. How the good man had ever -managed to reach the berth from whence he had fallen, I cannot tell. -But it was no time for reflection. Though a little stunned, the poor -friar got upon all fours, in an attempt to find his legs, but fright -and sickness had rendered him weak, and losing his equilibrium, he was -speedily carried beyond my reach by another lurch, and as I had no mind -to exchange my comparatively comfortable position for a wrestling-match -with a sick Capuchin, in half-a-fathom of dirty water, I<span class="pagenum" id="Page_320">[Pg 320]</span> waited until -a third lurch brought him back again, when I grappled him, and held on -tight till he righted.</p> - -<p>Whilst engaged in these little recreations, I suddenly became sensible -that we had got into smooth water, and with the pleasing anticipation -that we might by accident have hit Ancona, I was hastening on deck, -when a slight shock which followed the stoppage of the engines, set us -all off rolling again. Day was now just beginning to dawn, and as the -light increased, a beautiful and well-sheltered bay was revealed to -our view. The sailors had run us on a sandy shore, within sight of the -town of Pola, on the coast of Istria, and I began to think the wind -that blows nobody any good, must indeed be an ill one, inasmuch as many -travellers have gone scores of miles out of the regular beaten track, -to visit the ancient city, near which we were now safely stranded. The -sight of terra-firma restored spirits to our whole party, though they -were most of them considerably astonished at finding themselves as far -as ever from Ancona. As soon as we could land, a proceeding rendered -easy by the assistance of some of the good folk from Pola, we walked to -the town, and entering by one accord its little church, each in his own -way returned thanks for our deliverance from the perils of the deep.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_321">[Pg 321]</span></p> - -<p>Being told that our vessel would not again put to sea, until the -swell had somewhat abated, we had ample time before us to view the -antiquities of Pola. The amphitheatre or arena, is the great lion of -the place, and stands about half-a-mile from the town, close to the -shore, which in many places is rocky and precipitous. The outer wall -of this relic of Roman magnificence, remains perfect, evincing the -great extent of the building; but the interior is nearly all in ruins, -saving a few of the masses of masonry, which formerly supported the -raised seats. The whole interior is clogged up with heaps of rubbish, -overgrown in parts with weeds and brambles, and possesses a most -forlorn appearance. Viewed from the outside, the arena forms a splendid -ruin, the effect being much enhanced by its peculiar and picturesque -situation. Pola seems to have been once fortified with a strong wall, -of which the remains are tolerably perfect in places, and there is -also a Roman arch in good preservation, called, I believe, the Porta -Aurea, but the worthy people of the place seem to know very little -indeed either about its history, or the remains, which alone render it -of consequence in the eyes of the few travellers who visit it. There -is a miserable inn in the little piazza, but the sudden irruption of -five-and-twenty hungry steam-boat<span class="pagenum" id="Page_322">[Pg 322]</span> passengers, whose appetites had been -whetted to an alarming degree, by the inside-out experience of the -preceding night, caused such a run upon the eatables, that by the time -we had finished our breakfast, there was a partial famine in the place, -and we had to make our dinner off fish and vegetables.</p> - -<p>At five o’clock, our Captain, who had recovered his erring senses, -recalled us on board, but it was ten at night before the steam was up, -and our little vessel once more fairly afloat. Our voyage to Ancona, -though stormy enough, proved less boisterous than that of the night -before, and I believe we were all very glad to turn our backs upon the -still agitated water.</p> - -<p>At the custom-house, I had some little difficulty in passing my few -valuables, without paying a heavy duty. The Pope’s douaniers were -extremely curious, and a portable sketching apparatus, which I had -with me, unfortunately attracted the attention of the whole posse of -searchers. I thought the best way was to humour them, and therefore -opened my camp-stool, drew out a ready stretched piece of prepared -paper, squeezed a few dabs of paint upon the pallette, and might -perhaps have finished by caricaturing the whole lot, had not a more -considerate officer taken compassion on me,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_323">[Pg 323]</span> and desired me to shut up -my shop, an order I obeyed with the greatest alacrity. The result of my -delay was, that my travelling companions had appropriated all the rooms -in the “Albergo della Pace,” and I had to seek a bed elsewhere.</p> - -<p>I rose early the next day, in order to visit the old Cathedral church -and a triumphal arch, erected on the Mole, in honour of Trajan. I also -called upon my friend Heinrich, the German artist in acquarelle, who -had already engaged a <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">vettura</i>, to convey himself and family to -Rome. After some little bargaining with the driver, I secured a seat -in the coupè as far as Fuligno, having pretty much determined to make -a halt of a few days at Assisi, before returning to my old quarters in -the Via Sistina.</p> - -<p>We quitted Ancona at five in the morning, passing no fewer than -three distinct dogana, at each of which we were overhauled, though -fortunately without paying any duty. I found a trifling bribe go -farther than a boat-load of quiet civility or resignation, a papal -custom-house officer being devoid of all feeling save the modicum -existing in his palms, which when tickled with a small coin, generally -expand to the traveller’s advantage. On our arrival at Osimo, where -our vetturino gave us some breakfast, we discovered to our<span class="pagenum" id="Page_324">[Pg 324]</span> chagrin, -that our road would not lead us by Loretto, a disappointment for which -we had to thank ourselves in not making a better bargain, and we had -the mortification to catch a tantalizing glimpse only of the towers -of “Our Lady,” to which we had all been anticipating a pilgrimage. -Continuing our journey, we slept at Tolentino, at a most miserable -and dirty inn, and were really glad when the waiter called us at the -somewhat early hour of two (!) to resume our journey. It was of course -quite dark, and moreover, was raining heavily. I went to the stable to -call the driver, whom I found fast asleep between his jaded horses, -and we experienced some of the shivering pleasures of <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">vetturino</i> -travelling, as we waited for him to “put to.” The waiter endeavoured to -increase our discomforts, by offering coffee and bread in the middle of -the night, our coachman declaring that he had to pay for it, and that -if we refused it, we should get no more. We enlightened him, however, -by afterwards pulling up at a little inn at the foot of the Appenines, -where we had our coffee, when we were able to enjoy it. About five -in the afternoon we reached Fuligno, where I had to bid a temporary -adieu to my friend Heinrich and his amiable family. The waiter of the -hotel informed me that he had a little one-horse vettura, which<span class="pagenum" id="Page_325">[Pg 325]</span> would -take me comfortably to Assisi for fifteen pauls, and closing with his -offer, I agreed to set off next morning. It seemed, however, as if the -rainy season had thoroughly set in—the water poured down in torrents, -splashing in at the ill-closed windows of my old-fashioned vehicle, and -I had a miserably wet ride, passing through the ancient town of Spello, -and reaching Assisi about one o’clock. An old Roman acquaintance had -recommended to me the Casa Carpinelli, whither I ordered the boy -to drive, and found the family just sitting down to dinner. There -were already two visitors in the house, one a countryman of my own, -and the other a French artist, but I found excellent accommodation, -and can offer a willing tribute of acknowledgment to the kind care -of the Signor Lorenzo, who boarded and did for me, at the rate of -three-and-a-half pauls per diem.</p> - -<p>The Church of San Francesco is of course <em>the</em> lion of Assisi, -and is a very fine specimen of early Gothic architecture, abounding -also in rich frescoes, by Giotto and others. There are three distinct -churches, one over the other, the lowest of the three being cut in the -rock, which serves as the foundation of the entire building. Hundreds -of pilgrims resort hither annually, to worship at the shrine of San -Francesco, whose bones repose within this splendid temple.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_326">[Pg 326]</span> The convent -of the order of Francescans is attached to the church, and standing out -boldly as it does, from the face of the rock, has the appearance of a -strong fortification. The church of Santa Chiara is also well worth a -visit. It was formerly adorned with superb frescoes which, by command -of some infatuated bishop, were covered with whitewash, and all but -obliterated. There are yet a few remaining over the altar, and these -serve by their beauty to increase the regret one feels at the fate of -their companions.</p> - -<p>I staid a few weeks at Assisi, spending the greater portion of my time -in extended rambles through the neighbouring country, which, though -offering but few subjects for the pencil, is beautifully wooded, and -abounds with pleasing landscape. In the town I made many acquaintance, -of whom the most entertaining was a musical shoemaker, whom I had -called on with an order. I was I believe, whistling as I entered his -little workshop, though I should hardly have known that I was so -doing, had not my new friend exclaimed, “<i lang="it" xml:lang="it">quello é un bel pezzo, -Signore</i>!” and I should still have been at a loss to know whether -he alluded to my <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">morceau</i>, or to the leather in his hand, had he -not, quick as thought, whipped out a Cremona, and played me the whole -of the piece with remarkable<span class="pagenum" id="Page_327">[Pg 327]</span> precision and clearness. Giuseppe really -<em>did</em> possess a soul above buttons, as I found out when I became -better acquainted with him. He had fitted up a large room at the back -of his house as a <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">stanza di musica</i>, where he instructed a number -of young men of his acquaintance, in the mysteries of counterpoint.</p> - -<p>The shoemakers of Italy are remarkable for their devotion to harmony, -and my Assisi friends may be cited as a favourable specimen of the -craft, who, if unable to afford money to purchase instruments, and -time to use them, will sing glees as they sit at work, with a degree -of proficiency that is sometimes astonishing. Nor do they confine -their vocal powers to the shop only. When work is over, and they are -about to separate for the evening, they will be seen with their hands -rammed down into their pockets, and their heads close together, either -singing at a street corner, or marking time with measured pace, as -they take the road homewards. Giuseppe and his companions, who were -all instrumentalists, devoted two nights in the week to the private -performance of concerted pieces, to which as a stranger I was kindly -invited, and it will be long before I lose the remembrance of these -agreeable and unpretending little réunions.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_328">[Pg 328]</span></p> - -<p>I quitted Assisi on the day of <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">Tuttisanti</i>, or All Saints, -making a bargain with the Fuligno postman to take me that far in his -carrettina for the sum of four pauls. Taking a last peep into the -Cathedral church of San Rufino, where some imposing ceremonies were -going forward, I took leave of my Assisi friends, and got away about -two. It rained hard all the way to Fuligno, but the monstrous campagna -umbrella kindly lent me by the Signora Carpinelli, covered both myself -and the postman, and saved us from a thorough drenching. On alighting -at the “Croce Bianca,” I found a vetturino who was to start the next -morning for Rome, and with him I soon came to an arrangement.</p> - -<p>The waiter called me at five, bringing a cup of coffee, and having -hastily dressed myself, I got into my corner of the <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">legno</i>. The -rain was descending in sheets, and I wondered that our driver would -venture out before day-break in such weather. As soon as the light -had dawned, I discovered my travelling companions to be two priests -and a lady, who soon commenced an animated conversation, that served -to shorten the ride to Spoleto, where our vetturino pulled up at the -hotel, declaring he would proceed no farther in such <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">tempaccio</i>. -His half-dripping<span class="pagenum" id="Page_329">[Pg 329]</span> freight had nothing to do but to submit, and I -therefore entered the inn and ordered a bed, determined to make the -best of a forced halt. In the coffee-room, up stairs, I found a stout -lady at a table, eating, with a lot of damp Italians gazing at her in -astonishment. On a rainy day, a weather-bound traveller may be excused -a trifling liberty, and I therefore stared with the rest, though I -really did not observe anything remarkable until the lady addressed -the gaping half-dozen. “Ah! you may stare; pity you ai’nt got nothing -better to stare at!” The Italians seemed surprised and edified, and -looked at each other in silence, and then again at the stout lady, who -resumed. “Yes, I only wish <em>looking</em> at them cutlets ’ud make em -bigger! Here, garsony, some salad!” “Eccomi qua Signora!” said the -waiter, who emerged from behind a screen, at the far end of the room, -where he had concocted a genuine <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">insalata</i> of highly lubricated -beans, with a garnish of anchovies, which he now set down in triumph -before the astonished lady. “Well, I never,” exclaimed she, “cold -French beans with ile and vinegar—no, no, I aint <em>quite</em> come to -that yet, neither, the very look on ’em makes me ill!” And my graceful -countrywoman, producing a capacious case-bottle, drank her own health -with infinite<span class="pagenum" id="Page_330">[Pg 330]</span> gusto, and then pledged the crowd of admirers, who bowed -and took another long stare. At this juncture a good-humoured looking -vetturino entered the room, whom she no sooner caught sight of, than -she poured out for him another <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">petit verre</i>, and shaking her head -ruefully, pointed to the dessert and remains of her repast which had -evidently consisted of some few and very light materials, and had by no -means come up to <em>her</em> understanding of the agreement made with -the vetturino. But her wily driver, who swallowed the cognac, declined -taking the hint, beckoning her away with a notice of “Siamo pronto, -Signora,” and in defiance of both wind and water, they were soon again -on their road northwards before I could get an opportunity of speaking -the strange sail. The rain did not hold up until the moon rose, when it -was too late to go forward; so we staid the night at Spoleto, and on -the following day managed to reach Strittura, where we again met with a -detention of some hours. At Terni, we dropped one of the priests, and -took in his place a worthy sort of man, Governor of some little country -district, and exceedingly self-important. On arriving at Narni, our -vetturino drove to the “Campana,” or Bell Inn, a poor place enough, -though said to be the best in the town.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_331">[Pg 331]</span> The waiter, who took us for a -party of natives, from whom he would scarcely derive as much profit, -as from a carriage-load of travelling “Inglese,” was impudent and -abusive, but had no sooner detected a little badge of office worn by -the Governatore, who unfastened his upper Benjamin to that intent, than -he altered his tone, and shewed us excellent rooms. In the dining-room, -I fell in with more than a score of English, principally ladies, and -most amusing was it to me to hear their remarks upon our little party, -our dress and personal appearance being freely canvassed, without the -least affectation of whisper or concealment. I had my revenge upon them -in the evening, when it was decided that we should amuse ourselves by -having a song from every one present, the priests only being exempted. -On its coming round to me, I selected something in the mother tongue, -which, as the language was entirely unanticipated by certain of the -young ladies, produced so strange an effect, that they left the room in -confusion, and could scarcely be induced to return.</p> - -<p>On reaching Otricoli the next day, we found a great number of vehicles, -public and private, as well as the Corriera or mail, detained there -by the overflow of the Tiber at the Ponte Felice. We were disposing -ourselves to pass the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_332">[Pg 332]</span> remainder of the day in this miserable village, -when a post-boy with some return horses, having brought the news that -the water was not more than three palms over the road, we all decided -to venture, and arrived at Civita Castellana without difficulty. At -Rome I put up at an inn in the Via del Orso, with my Italian friend -the Governor, until I could suit myself with a lodging, and on walking -to the Lepri, fell in with many of my old artistical acquaintance at -Aurelio’s table, who received me with many expressions of welcome.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_333">[Pg 333]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXV">CHAPTER XXV.</h2> -</div> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>CHANGE OF DOMICILE—FRANCESCO—FRIENDS FROM -ENGLAND—PICTURE-SHOPS—OLD PAINTINGS—ARTISTS AND THEIR PATRONS—MR. -TITMARSH—ANECDOTE OF N—— —THE DINNER AT BERTINI’s—THE -ENGLISH ACADEMY—TABLE TALK—HARMONY—THE AMERICANS—ROMAN -GAIETIES—TORLONIA’S—THE FESTINI—HOSPITAL OF SAN MICHELE—THE -QUIRINAL—VIA GREGORIANA—MR. RAVEN AGAIN—THE ENGLISH CHURCH—THE -FRIENDS’ MEETING-HOUSE—ILLUMINATION OF ST. PETER’S.</p> -</div> - - -<p>Being informed that my old friend Quatremolle, the artist, had taken -a studio outside the Porta del Popolo, I called on him the day after -my arrival, and found him snugly located in a Casino belonging to -the Borghese Gardens, exactly opposite the building known as the -English Church. I had no sooner made my appearance, and told him that -I was roofless, my old rooms in the Sistina being occupied, than he -introduced me to a fine unfurnished room, adjoining his own, of which -he said I might at once take possession. The proposal was liberal, and -the situation, if not the most convenient, was at least so agreeable -that I hastened to an<span class="pagenum" id="Page_334">[Pg 334]</span> upholsterer in the Corso, who supplied me on -hire with such few articles of furniture as were necessary, and in -the course of a few days I was snugly settled in my new quarters. -Francesco, the <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">Barbarossa</i>, served us in the capacity of -factotum, lighting the fires in the morning, and running for red -herrings and butter to the shop of a neighbouring <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">pizzicarolo</i>. -Underneath my room was a decent coffee-shop, from whence two or three -taps upon the floor would produce my breakfast, whilst for dinner I -paid the usual mid-day visit to the “Lepri.”</p> - -<p>I was busy one morning in finishing up a Venetian sketch, when I -was surprised by the apparition of an intimate acquaintance, fresh -from England. He was travelling in quest of health with two of his -friends, to whom he introduced me at the Hotel d’Angleterre, and as -they appeared resolved to see all they could of Rome, a week or more -was passed in one continued round of sight-seeing. The galleries, -however, were the great objects of attraction, and there were very few -that escaped their notice, to say nothing of the host of picture-shops -which they visited in search of bargains. Mack himself would hardly -have displayed greater perseverance in ferretting among old worm-eaten -and decayed rubbish, than did my London friends, who<span class="pagenum" id="Page_335">[Pg 335]</span> have to answer -for the rubbing up of many an atrocious daub, which, but for their -extraordinary resolution, would never again have known the smell of -varnish. Small dealers, who had hitherto never possessed anything -beyond a Sacchi or a Bassano, now suddenly became the proprietors of -sundry undoubted Correggios, or maybe an indisputable Sebastian del -Piombo, in a mahogany frame, with a lock and a glass window. Almost -every one had a genuine Nicolo Poussin, an unfortunate who might now -have been living had he painted two-thirds of the pictures ascribed to -him. This poor man too appears to have possessed the queer habit of -obliterating his own foregrounds with an over-coating of brambles and -brushwood; the sagacious dealer never failing to declare, that by the -merest accident imaginable, the genuine picture was brought to light by -the removal of a thick over-stratum of paint.</p> - -<p>After having pretty well visited all the sights of Rome, and filled -a large deal case with plasters, bronzes, mosaics, and paintings, my -friends started off one fine morning for Florence, leaving behind -them one of their party who was in poor health. This gentleman had -been strongly recommended to <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> P., an English physician of great -and deserved popularity, who had made Rome his residence,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_336">[Pg 336]</span> and the -introduction was no sooner effected, than W. put himself into the -doctor’s hands, and taking a commodious suite of rooms in the Via -Gregoriana, settled down for the winter. I staid a month or more in -the studio outside the Popolo, when my friend Quatremolle decided on -giving up the place and going northwards, and I then joined W——, -who had begun to weary of living alone. Christmas time was fast -approaching, and Rome becoming every day more and more crowded with -English and other strangers, and consequent upon their arrival was -a rapid succession of evening parties and artistical réunions. The -brothers of the brush are not less averse than others to glitter in -the reflected light of such stars of great magnitude, as twinkle -away the winter in the Holy City, and when one of them does manage -to nail a great man, there is generally some little manifestation of -exclusiveness. Patrons, however, are by no means so plentiful as to be -held in very light estimation, and the feeling is therefore excusable, -whilst there can be no harm in fête-ing a pseudo-connoisseur with his -own scudi, or standing treat at the Aliberti to Lord this, or the -Marquis of that, with a heavy draft on Torlonia in prospectu. Of the -great men who visited Rome during this winter, M. A. Titmarsh was among -the most popular. Himself an artist, he dropped<span class="pagenum" id="Page_337">[Pg 337]</span> down among us on -his way from Cairo, no one knowing when he came or how he went away. -Installed in a quiet bed-room at Franz’s, in the Condotti, he appeared -to amuse himself, like Asmodeus, with peering into the studios of his -countrymen, and while he rummaged over their dusty portfolios, or -critically scanned the pictures on the wall, would unconsciously read -their secret thoughts, and penetrate, as it were, the arcana of their -pockets, without allowing them for a moment to imagine that he intended -aught save a mere friendly visit. Many, however, were the poor devils -who managed to push through the winter on the strength of the timely -fillip administered by Titmarsh,<a id="FNanchor_40" href="#Footnote_40" class="fnanchor">[40]</a> who was moreover one of those -pleasant paymasters who get a bad character because they make their -settlements<span class="pagenum" id="Page_338">[Pg 338]</span> beforehand. Painting, however, ought certainly to be a -ready-money business, as artists seldom like to give, what they somehow -always manage to take—long credits; and as they never approach nearer -to the practice of book-keeping than a chalk or charcoal memorandum -on the wall or door-post, possess the happy knack of never knowing -how their accounts stand, or may take the same businesslike view of a -transaction, as my friend Savill, who declared that <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Milnes owed him -£25. for a picture, which he afterwards gravely admitted he had neither -commenced nor thought about.</p> - -<p>I met Titmarsh at many of the evening parties which were held at this -season by the artists. Perhaps the greatest display of this sort was -made on a certain holiday, when the whole of us dined together at -Bertini’s, and he was voted into the chair. It happened unfortunately, -that the dinner provided on the occasion was of a most indifferent -character, and very ill-calculated to impress the F. C. with any -great idea of Roman advancement in gastronomy. Our motive, however, -for thus meeting in a social way, was not that of mere feasting: a -great amount of elocution had to be got through, in addition to the -usual round of song and sentiment. It happened<span class="pagenum" id="Page_339">[Pg 339]</span> just at this time, -that there was a schism among the members of the English Academy in -Rome respecting a proposition originating with Mack,—that an Italian -Professor of drawing should be appointed to the Academy! This proposal -had met with the most vigorous and animated opposition from the other -faction, headed by O’Neil, who had proved himself a most able champion, -having set forth in an eloquent and elaborate speech, the consequences -of such a measure,—the impropriety of introducing an Italian style -of drawing to the annihilation of all originality,—the injustice of -placing a master over men who never would submit to his criticism, and -the unenviable position in which such a master would necessarily be -placed,—the reflection, in fact, upon the state of English art, and -other weighty considerations. O’Neil was supported by men of eminence -and standing, as well as by a very conclusive argument adduced by -the Secretary, who proved that the funds of the institution would -ill support the expense. Mack, however, like an able general, having -canvassed the whole body beforehand, carried his motion by a majority -of eight! The master therefore was appointed, <em>not</em> as Professor -of drawing to the English Academy, but to give his assistance to such -as might ask it, a qualification of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_340">[Pg 340]</span> original measure, which it was -hoped would meet the views of all parties.</p> - -<p>With this important question fresh upon the tapis, it was no wonder -that a considerable portion of the evening was consumed in long-winded -speeches, and had it not been for a deeply guttural proposal on the -part of our friend Beardman, “to take the basso part in a glee,” a -harmonious feeling would scarcely have been arrived at. His instigation -was succeeded by a call for a song from the chair, amid a vociferous -shout of “Viva Titmarsh!” and a deafening clatter of dessert furniture. -Our great friend assured us he was unable to sing, but would endeavour -to make amends by getting up a recitation, if some one in the mean -time would make a beginning. Whilst a few, therefore, on the right of -the chair, were tantalizing the company by a tortured version of one -of Calcott’s glees, the F. C., busy with his tablets under the table, -produced the following affecting narrative, of which he soon after -delivered himself in a fittingly lugubrious tone of voice.</p> - -<p class="center caption">THE THREE SAILORS.</p> - -<p class="poetry"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">There were three sailors in Bristol City,</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Who took a boat and went to sea.</span><br /> -<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">But first with beef and captains’ biscuit,</span><br /> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_341">[Pg 341]</span><span style="margin-left: 1em;">And pickled pork they loaded she.</span><br /> -<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">There was guzzling Jack and gorging Jimmy,</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And the youngest he was little Bil-<i>ly</i>.</span><br /> -<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Now very soon they were so greedy,</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">They did’nt leave not one split pea.</span><br /> -<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Says guzzling Jack to gorging Jimmy,</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">I am confounded hung-<i>ery</i>.</span><br /> -<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Says gorging Jim to guzzling Jacky,</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">We have no wittles, so we must eat <i>we</i>.</span><br /> -<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Says guzzling Jack to gorging Jimmy,</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Oh! gorging Jim, what a fool you be.</span><br /> -<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">There’s little Bill as is young and tender,</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">We’re old and tough—so let’s eat <i>he</i>.</span><br /> -<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Oh! Bill, we’re going to kill and eat you,</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">So undo the collar of your chemie.</span><br /> -<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">When Bill he heard this information,</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">He used his pocket-handkerchee.</span><br /> -<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Oh! let me say my Catechism,</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">As my poor mammy taught to me.</span><br /> -<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Make haste, make haste, says guzzling Jacky,</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Whilst Jim pulled out his snicker-snee.</span><br /> -<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">So Bill went up the main top-gallant mast,</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">When down he fell on his bended knee.</span><br /> -<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">He scarce had said his catechism,</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">When up he jumps; there’s land I see!</span><br /> -<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">There’s Jerusalem and Madagascar,</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And North and South Ameri-<i>key</i>.</span><br /> -<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">There’s the British fleet a riding at anchor,</span><br /> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_342">[Pg 342]</span><span style="margin-left: 1em;">With Admiral Napier, K.C.B.</span><br /> -<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">So when they came to the Admiral’s Vessel,</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">He hanged fat Jack, and flogged Jim-<i>my</i>.</span><br /> -<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">But as for little Bill, he made him</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The Captain of a Seventy-three.</span><br /> -</p> - -<p>It is needless to say that the recital of M. A. Titmarsh was received -with all the applause it merited. Even the “Emperor,” stoically -indifferent as he uniformly was to either music or moral, was betrayed -into some expression of feeling, distinctly audible to those near him, -whilst he repeatedly pledged the author of the interesting ballad. -Other songs followed as a matter of course, but our ears were become -so accustomed to the oft-heard and unvarying effusions of our brother -artists, that few of them elicited farther comment than a faint -“bravo,” or a few raps upon the table, and we were beginning to think -of separating, when our chairman received a polite message from a party -of Americans, who had been dining in another room. With a laudable wish -to sink a certain feeling of national prejudice, which I believe some -of the English entertained against “Brother Jonathan,” these gentlemen -expressed a desire to fraternize and join us, a proposal which so -aroused the bile of Vetch and Warmey, that they immediately quitted the -apartment in a state of great excitement, whilst our esteemed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_343">[Pg 343]</span> chairman -formed, and personally headed, a mission of peace into the quarters of -the enemy, who afterwards gave us their company for the rest of the -evening.</p> - -<p>With the commencement of February came the Carnival again, a more -brilliant affair this year than the last, in consequence of the great -number of strangers wintering in Rome. Among the English, and others, -there was a constant succession of evening parties in every grade of -style and grandeur, from the grand crash at Torlonia’s to the quiet -tea-drink of a first-floor in the Due Macelli. Great was the dismay of -those unfortunate bachelors, who had been so unwary as to place their -temporary accounts in the hands of one of the Condotti bankers, to -find their names excluded from the long list of eligibles on the books -of the Signor Spada. No large card with the attracting German-text of -the Principe and Principessa, greeted them from the corners of their -chimney-glasses, and unless they could squeeze themselves in under -cover of the family invite of some large party of English friends, -or suddenly transfer their accounts, the <i>salons</i> of the mighty -banker were to them a <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">terra incognita</i>.</p> - -<p>At one of the Festini in the Argentina, which were this time -particularly gay, I made the acquaintance of an<span class="pagenum" id="Page_344">[Pg 344]</span> agreeable family, -through the medium of the father, who puzzled me for many nights, by -a well-dressed character, and extraordinary command of language. My -new friends, having been long resident in Italy, introduced me to many -Roman families whom I should otherwise scarcely have fallen in with, -to whose kindness I am indebted for many subsequent obligations. In -company with H. and his amiable wife, I visited, among other places, -the Hospital of San Michele, for which purpose he had obtained a -private order from Cardinal Tosti, the resident director of the -institution. At this admirable establishment, five hundred of the -Roman youth of both sexes are clothed and maintained, having also -the advantage of a good education, and the opportunity of qualifying -themselves for any trade that may appear most suitable to their tastes. -A young Italian showed us over the building, which is situated on the -right bank of the Tiber, below the Ponte Rotto. We found a number of -youths busied at various artistical occupations, such as architectural -drawing, engraving on copper, cartooning, music, tapestry, and the -cutting of <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">pietra dura</i> and camei, whilst on the ground-floor -were sculptors’ studios, and shops for weavers and dyers of cloth.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_345">[Pg 345]</span></p> - -<p>In another part of the establishment were the girls, likewise employed -in various branches of useful labour, as spinning, weaving, and the -manufacture of army ornaments. All those of the Papal troops are made -here, from the coloured flames on the coat-tails of the recruit, to the -pink plume of the Swiss guard. The bed-rooms are particularly neat and -comfortable, some of the dormitories containing as many as fifty beds. -In answer to an inquiry from one of our party, why some of these beds -were larger than others, resembling in fact a genuine four-poster, the -old lady who conducted us informed us that, in the event of a marriage -taking place in the institution, the fortunate couple were presented -with a good bed and its furniture by way of a portion. We saw the -kitchens, which are admirably fitted up, the girls acting as cooks for -the female department. In a spacious yard were an incredible number of -hens, each girl keeping as many as she can afford to nourish, disposing -of the eggs to furnish pocket-money.</p> - -<p>From San Michele we drove back to the Quirinal, to view the palace -of the Pope, which, of all the regal dwellings I ever visited, is -decidedly the least ostentatious. Our guide informed us that stuffed -chair-bottoms were forbidden, and certainly the seats in the reception -room, which were of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_346">[Pg 346]</span> painted wood and of the most ordinary description, -seemed to corroborate his assertion. The private rooms of the great -Vicar were nevertheless somewhat more comfortable, and in one -apartment, a well-appointed billiard-table evinced a degree of luxury -ill-according with the rest of the furniture. Fancy Cardinal B——i, -starring with two lives and pocketing the Pope!</p> - -<p>As W. and I were one day dozing after dinner in the “Via Gregoriana,” -Settimio silently ushered in a tall figure, whose face, as he peered -at us over the baize screen, I recognized as that of my old friend <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> -Raven. He was on his way to England, after having spent many years of -usefulness in Egypt, in the personal direction of the Overland transit, -which had now passed into other hands. How he had managed to discover -my whereabouts, was of no moment; few visitors could have been more -welcome; and finding that he proposed spending some days in Rome, to -give his protegeé and travelling companion an opportunity of seeing -some of its wonders, I offered to assist him to the best of my ability. -My friends had arrived just in time to witness some of the ceremonies -of the Holy Week, and had the satisfaction of seeing one of the grand -processions in <abbr title="saint">St.</abbr> Peter’s, and hearing the solemn music of the -Sistine.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_347">[Pg 347]</span> At the former, the King of Naples, although not wearing any -uniform, was conspicuous among the crowd, which was dotted in all parts -with our militia officers, whose cocked hats and gay coats, have a very -imposing appearance in the eyes of the worthy Romans, who don’t know a -recruiting sergeant from a field marshal.</p> - -<p>The English Church, to which I have before alluded as being little -better than a mere barn, is <em>outside</em> the Porta del Popolo. It -seems strange that this manifestation of intolerance should exist in -a capital like Rome, and it is to be hoped that the more enlightened -policy which has marked the opening of the new Pontificate, will be -allowed to extend to matters of greater moment than the licensing -of itinerant hawkers, or the extension of iron-roads throughout the -Papal states, and that before long, it will be unnecessary for those -professing with the Church of England to pass beyond the walls of -the city, to reach their place of worship. This veto, however, would -hardly appear to extend to those who dissent therefrom, inasmuch as -for many weeks, W. and I attended the little meeting of Friends, which -was held in a small street leading out of the Piazza di Spagna. We -met in a little room belonging to the apartment of our friend B——n, -which opened at one side on to the leads of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_348">[Pg 348]</span> house underneath, and -at the back looked out upon the slopes of the Pincian Hill. I often -thought (when my thoughts should have been better engaged) that, had -any of the good friends from the benches of Devonshire House popped -in accidentally upon us, they would have found some difficulty in -recognising a gathering of their own particular people. Although few -in number, we mustered some black moustaches, and, I believe, a beard -or two, whilst our female friends, of whom we had the company of four -or five, would, I fear, scarcely have passed muster at the great May -Meeting in Bishopsgate. With respect to the hat, to which some attach -so distinguished an importance, the most fastidious would hardly have -found fault, for the remotest corners of Pennsylvania never gave birth -to a more preposterous breadth of brim, than that possessed by my own -<i lang="it" xml:lang="it">cinque-cento</i>, whilst those of my friends were of such dimensions -as best suited the sunny climate of Rome.</p> - - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="img019"> - <img src="images/019.jpg" class="w75" alt="FRIENDS’ MEETING AT ROME" /> -</span></p> -<p class="center caption">FRIENDS’ MEETING AT ROME.<br /></p> - -<p>On one occasion of our meeting together, the sitting was somewhat -abruptly concluded by a deafening salute from the cannons of <abbr title="saint">St.</abbr> -Angelo, which shook the very <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">piombi</i> of friend B——n. It was -Easter Day, and the Pope had just pronounced a blessing upon the -thousands of souls<span class="pagenum" id="Page_349">[Pg 349]</span> assembled in the Piazza of <abbr title="saint">St.</abbr> Peter’s. After we -had separated, I hunted up my friend Raven, who had just returned from -the “Benediction,” and with him visited some of the Roman villas, going -subsequently to the Ponte <abbr title="saint">St.</abbr> Angelo, to secure a convenient window -for the fireworks of the following day. In the evening we drove to a -favourable position in the great square of <abbr title="saint">St.</abbr> Peter, where, hemmed -in by hundreds of vehicles, we had to wait until the illumination of -the Duomo should commence. Being curious to see the method of lighting -the lamps, I left the party in the carriage, and squeezing through the -dense crowd, got as near as I could to the church. The whole façade was -stuck over with bajocco candles, each having a little wooden stand and -shade of stiff paper to keep off the wind, and these were arranged in -such a way as perfectly to develope the architectural outlines of the -building. The candles were ignited by men suspended from the top of -the façade, looking, as they dangled on their ropes in mid-air, like -the fowlers of the Orkneys, and plying apparently quite as perilous a -pursuit. I now returned to Raven, but the pressure of the crowd was -so great, that the lighting up of the cupola had commenced before I -reached him. This seems to be effected by the simultaneous ignition -of an immense number of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_350">[Pg 350]</span> small pots of tow and turpentine, placed -in proper position, in belts around the dome, and in vertical lines -between the gores, there being one man to about every ten lamps. These -poor fellows have a very dangerous task to perform, being suspended by -ropes passing through apertures in the dome. Sometimes, though rarely, -one of them misses his hold, and extinguishes in his fall the row of -lamps he has just lighted, which have been remarked to go out one by -one, as the unfortunate scrapes them off in his rapid descent. Having -satisfied ourselves with a near inspection of this really wonderful and -costly exhibition, we returned to view it at a distance from the summit -of the Pincian.</p> - - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_40" href="#FNanchor_40" class="label">[40]</a> That artists are sometimes grievously <em>hard up</em>, -there can be little doubt. I happened one cold morning, to call upon -N——, whose absence from his usual seat at the Lepri had been remarked -by many of us. Instead of finding him, as I had anticipated, unusually -busy with his chisel, he was engaged in shooting his dinner at the open -window of the garret, which commanded an extensive range of leads, -tiles and gutters. His sport, which he pursued in solemn silence, was -the common sparrow, and his weapon a machine much in use among lawyers’ -clerks when the principal has turned his back, known by the name of a -<i>puff and dart</i>, from which any one with a good pair of lungs, -can expel pin with great force. Having knocked over nearly a dozen -birds, N—— walked out of window to collect them, and then plucked and -spitted them, enjoying his repast with a thankful relish unknown to -those who get a good dinner every day.</p> - -</div> -</div> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_351">[Pg 351]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXVI">CHAPTER XXVI.</h2> -</div> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>TIVOLI—COUNTRY EXCURSIONS—CICILIANO—HOSPITALITY OF -THE MOUNTAINEERS—THE PORTA SAN LORENZO—VISIT TO THE -GOVERNOR—ANOTHER START NORTHWARD—FLORENCE—THE UFFIZII—S——, -AND HIS HEAD OF VELASQUEZ—THE FLOOD OF THE ARNO—MR. -M.—LORD D.—UNEXPECTED SUMMONS—PISA—LEGHORN—GENOA—THE -“DILIGENCE”—ALESSANDRIA—TURIN—THE RAILWAY DEPUTATION—EXPEDITION -TO THE MONT CENIS—SUSA—BARDONECHE—MY FRIEND B.’S MOUNTAIN -RAMBLE—SUCCESSFUL “JODELN”—THE VALLEY OF THE DORA SUSA—DEPARTURE -FROM TURIN—CONCLUSION.</p> -</div> - - -<p>The “Holy Week” and its ceremonies concluded, and Raven having left -for Marseilles on his way homewards, a few of us made up a party for -Tivoli. Some rode, while the rest, preferring the dreary march over -the Campagna, were overtaken by a Roman shower, which thoroughly -soaked them to the skin before they reached the appointed rendezvous -at Salvi’s hotel. We had intended to devote the next day to a walk as -far as Vicovaro, but having chosen a most unfortunate time for our -excursion, had got only about three-fourths of the way there, when such -a drencher poured down upon us, whilst in a totally unsheltered part -of the road, that<span class="pagenum" id="Page_352">[Pg 352]</span> we were compelled to take refuge in a little straw -wine-house, about as big as a hay-cock, which was already occupied by -the family of the proprietor, half-a-dozen surly dogs, and myriads of -fleas. Amusing ourselves by transferring the faces of the children to -our sketch-books, we remained until an opening in the black clouds -above promised some abatement of the rain, and then, sallying forth, -made a quick march back to the hotel, where a roaring fire welcomed -us very opportunely. In the evening, our little party was enlivened -by a visit from Count H. le Grice and Captain D——, who had for some -months been enjoying the retirement of the Palazzo Santa Croce. The -latter amused us with some exciting stories of a long campaign n the -Peninsula, and proposed, if the morrow should prove more propitious, -a donkey-excursion to the distant village of Ciciliano. We therefore -ordered a number of animals to be in readiness, and finding, when we -arose, that the clouds of the preceding day had entirely disappeared, -we made a start after breakfast, and had a delightful, though somewhat -wearying ride, to the little village, which lies embosomed among the -mountains, at a considerable elevation above the valley through which -our road had led us.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_353">[Pg 353]</span></p> - -<p>The scenery is of a wild and charming character, and it is -extraordinary that these secluded regions are not more often visited -by those who profess to travel in search of the picturesque. Toiling -up the hill, which conducted us to the quaint little town, we halted -before the best-looking house therein, and deposited at the door a -mule-load of brocoli and lemons, which we intended as an offering to -the padrone, who was personally known to some of our party. The good -man was absent on business in a neighbouring village, but his wife, -an agreeable and most intelligent-looking woman, gave us a hearty -welcome, cooked us a large dish of home-made sausages, and supplied us -with wine and cheese <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">ad libitum</i>. We staid but an hour or two, -to recruit ourselves and the tired mules, but our kind hostess, with -that liberality which distinguishes the peasants of the Appenines, -had already prepared our beds and lamps, and would scarcely hear of -our going away the same day. In order, too, that we might the more -effectually enjoy ourselves, the kind creature had gathered about -her all the rural beauty of Ciciliano, and one or two dark-looking -fellows, with their guitars, in the hope of tempting us with an evening -dance, and the excitement of a genuine <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">Saltarello</i>. It would be -difficult to say whether they or we were the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_354">[Pg 354]</span> more disappointed, but we -had made up our minds to return, and feeling also that the unexpected -intrusion of a party of seven would be taxing her hospitality too -severely, we saddled our mules and bade them <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">addio</i>. The next -morning broke so temptingly, that we lounged it away at the Falls, -whose cool grots and rushing waters were seldom enjoyed to greater -advantage.</p> - -<p>As I had ridden out to Tivoli, I varied the pleasures of the excursion -by walking home. My friend Flake proved a most agreeable companion, and -we walked and talked to such good purpose, that the weary length of -road over the campagna was almost unnoticed, saving that I had become -so lame, that I was obliged to take off one boot and suspend it by a -string over my shoulder. At length we reached the Porta San Lorenzo, -through which we were quietly proceeding, when some functionary, -emerging from a chamber in the wall, arrested our farther progress by -demanding our passports. We had none; and our <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">carte di sicurezza</i> -were safe in our respective drawers where we had left them. We were -therefore detained, and presently discovered that nothing short of a -visit to the Governor of Rome would satisfy the officious gate-keeper. -The good man evidently flattered himself that our seedy artistical garb -disguised a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_355">[Pg 355]</span> pair of very dangerous foreigners, and having invested -himself in a suitable habit, he appropriated an arm of each of us, and -strode forward with becoming importance towards the church of Santa -Maria Maggiore. Flake and I, however, were foot-sore and weary, and -not relishing the <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">eclat</i> of being marched through the streets -in the clutch of a dirty gate-keeper, we chartered the first empty -coach that came in our way, and treated our body-guard with a ride to -the “Polizia.” The Governor of Rome was, like other reasonable men, -at his dinner; but a good-natured clerk who had eaten <em>his</em> two -hours before, referred to his books, and finding that our names were -duly inscribed therein, and that had we not forgotten our papers we -should have been perfectly <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">en regle</i>, he dismissed us with many -apologies for the inconvenience we had experienced, and bestowing a few -words of approval on our friend of the gate, told him to get back as -fast as he could to his duties.</p> - -<p>W. now took it into his head to make a sudden start for the north, and -proposed that I should accompany him. I had certainly not intended -quitting Rome so early in the spring, but my friend was an invalid, and -having but little knowledge of Italian, was hardly in a condition to -trust himself to the tender mercies of uncouth Vetturini<span class="pagenum" id="Page_356">[Pg 356]</span> and exacting -landlords. Under these circumstances I made up my mind to go with him, -and after some little search, met with a light britzka and pair of -horses, belonging to a cabman of Florence, who agreed to deposit us -safe and sound in that city within four days from the time of starting, -for a sum of fifty scudi, including beds, and two substantial daily -meals.</p> - -<p>I had now to bid a second adieu to my Roman friends, and not knowing -how far I might be induced to accompany W., left the few heavy -valuables I possessed in the care of a kind banker in the Condotti, -taking with me such only as a long journey might render necessary. -Travelling by way of Perugia, we reached Florence by easy stages, -and located ourselves at the “Quatre Nations,” from whence I shortly -removed to the house of the Signor Vital, on the Lung’ Arno, with whom -I had been long acquainted. Here I staid two weeks or more, copying in -the Uffizii and Pitti galleries, to which the access is sufficiently -easy. In the former I made acquaintance with S——, an English artist, -who was busily copying a head by Velasquez. Whether it was that he -soon after got tired of his subject, or became disgusted with his -production, he did not tell me, but I was much astonished one day, -on paying my usual visit<span class="pagenum" id="Page_357">[Pg 357]</span> to his part of the gallery, to find him in -the act of finishing off his study with a pair of prodigiously black -eyes, which stared at me from the canvas with a fixedness that was -excessively absurd. Remonstrance was useless. Adding two spots of -white, which served to perfect the vagary, S—— turned his picture to -the wall, where we left it. Some days afterwards, I happened to be in -that division of the gallery, when it was undergoing the weekly visit -of the sweeping brush. The head <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">custode</i>, who would suffer none -but himself to touch such pictures as were in progress, was regarding -the copy of Velasquez with a stare almost as intense as that which had -been imparted to it by S——. In another moment, he had summoned the -whole of his underlings; but to no purpose—they one and all pleaded -innocent of the foul trick upon the Signor Inglese. The poor custode -was in despair, and was wringing his hands and tearing his wig in -anticipation of the dismissal which would inevitably follow S——’s -exposure of the black eyes, when that gentleman himself entered the -gallery, and immediately relieved the old man’s anxiety by adding a -nose and mouth to match, and packing up his painting apparatus.</p> - -<p>At Florence I met with my friend Edward M——y,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_358">[Pg 358]</span> who had gained -so deserved a popularity by his courageous exploits in the flood -which caused so much damage in 1845, when the Arno, swollen to a -mighty torrent by the rains which poured into it from the mountains, -encroached beyond its wonted bounds, and sweeping down the valley -with irresistible rapidity, carried all before it. For days did the -waters tear along, bearing upon their bosom the spoils of many a goodly -homestal. Cattle and trees, chairs, tables, beds, pianofortes, and -every possible description of household furniture, nay, the very body -of the inmates themselves, were carried away by the ruthless torrent, -which converted the streets of Florence into canals, and rose in some -of the squares to a height of more than six feet. M——y was at this -time living in the Palazzo P——, in the Borgo dei Greci, and on the -morning of the first day of the flood was awakened by his landlady, who -entered his room, wailing and beating her hands in a state of frightful -agitation. It was not without difficulty that M——y managed to elicit -that something unusually terrible had taken place out of doors, but -in going to the window, he saw quite sufficient to enlighten him -completely. A horse, nearly exhausted, was swimming about in the street -below, among a quantity of flasks, barrels, and other commodities, -which had floated<span class="pagenum" id="Page_359">[Pg 359]</span> from out the cellars. The good woman now gave him to -understand that her son had left the house early in the morning, and -was certainly drowned; but whilst M——y was in the act of assuming a -pair of light summer trousers, a message was passed along the adjacent -houses to the effect that the young man was on a plank at some distance -off, and in imminent peril of being carried into the Arno. M——y was -now at the steps of the palace, where several people were congregated. -One old woman begged him “<i lang="it" xml:lang="it">per l’amore della Madonna</i>,” and as he -valued his life, not to venture; but the afflicted mother stood by, -and our friend did not hesitate a second. Being a man of Herculean -frame, and possessed of incredible strength, he was able, whilst he -touched terra-firma, to stem the force of the current with his head and -shoulders above the water, and having cautiously waded to the young -man, whose hold upon the plank was becoming every moment more feeble, -he stretched forth his arm and rescued him.</p> - -<p>This was not the only one whose life M——y was the providential means -of saving, but the accounts I heard respecting the others were so -varied, that I shall not farther allude to them. I often begged him to -give me the particulars, but so uniformly averse was he to expatiate -upon<span class="pagenum" id="Page_360">[Pg 360]</span> his own exploits, that I at last gave it up as a bad job.</p> - -<p>Perhaps one of the most daring feats related in connection with this -flood, was that performed by Lord D. This nobleman had engaged to dine -with the Honourable C—— L——, and both occupied palaces in the same -street, though at considerable distance from each other. The waters -were too deep to allow of wading, and the act of swimming was rendered -hazardous from the rapidity with which the torrent was raging. But -his word had been passed, and the hour fixed for dinner having nearly -arrived, his lordship unhesitatingly committed himself to the flood, -and by making a rush from one window to the other, and clinging to the -iron work with which almost all were furnished, succeeded in gaining -the hotel of his friend, whose family he astonished in no small degree, -by suddenly presenting himself at the first-floor window, just as they -were about to sit down to table. Having borrowed a dry suit, Lord D., -who evidently was not to be easily discouraged by trifles, enjoyed his -dinner, and swam back again to his own domicile.</p> - -<p>I had scarce been a fortnight at the house of the Signor Vital, when -the plans which I had formed for my future guidance, were suddenly -knocked on the head by the receipt<span class="pagenum" id="Page_361">[Pg 361]</span> of a letter inviting me immediately -northward, to meet a deputation of railway potentates, among whom were -one or two personal acquaintance of my own. These gentlemen, armed with -powers to treat, and unfathomable purses, were invading Italy, fraught -with a scheme which would defy the very Alps, and make footballs of -the Appenines. The partial completion of the Lombardo-Venetian trunk, -had already whetted the appetites of the Austrians, who were free -to receive and take fire at the scintillations of the great railway -firework which had recently exploded in Britain, and had scattered its -sparks over the whole of the north of Italy, some blowing over into -gentle Tuscany, whilst <em>a very few</em> fell into the dominions of the -Pope. Although somewhat loth to close my colour box, in the uncertain -expectation of having once more to shoulder a theodolite, I felt that -it would be impolitic to refuse an invitation which had been extended -through the interest of my friends, and might lead to important results.</p> - -<p>I therefore once more packed up my portmanteau, and as W. was intending -to proceed to Genoa, which would be all on my way to Turin, we hired a -carriage for Pisa, and leaving Florence at ten at night, changed horses -three times, and at six in the morning arrived at the birth-place -of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_362">[Pg 362]</span> Galileo. We put up at a little inn near to the railway by which -we were to reach Leghorn, and hastily dispatching our breakfast, -walked out in a heavy rain to see the leaning tower or Campanile, and -other interesting objects in its neighbourhood. A priest conducted -us into the Baptistery, a circular building standing by itself, with -a spacious and lofty dome. Here the good man, who possessed a rich -and powerful voice, chanted a few verses, in order that we might hear -the reverberation caused by the peculiar structure of the cupola, and -almost startled us by the effect he produced. The Campo Santo is close -by, and its covered galleries abound with frescoes and other valuable -works of art, much injured by time. The earth in this burial-place is -said to have been brought from Calvary by the Pisans, on their return -from a crusade, and the name of <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">Campo Santo</i>, applied to all -Italian cemeteries, probably owes its origin to this circumstance.</p> - -<p>A railway trip of half-an-hour’s duration, brought us to Leghorn, where -we engaged berths for Genoa. Repairing on board the steam vessel, we -found, to our chagrin, that the rain which had prevented the discharge -of her cargo, would be the cause of our staying a day in this dirty -sea-port. We had, therefore, to pocket our soap and toothbrushes,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_363">[Pg 363]</span> and -secure beds at a little hotel contiguous to the shore, passing the -remainder of the wet and dismal day in strolling through the town, and -poking about in the ware-room of Jewish merchants.</p> - -<p>Arrived at Genoa, and having obtained pratique, we passed through the -strict formalities of its custom-house, and located ourselves at the -“Croce di Malta.” Being in expectation of hearing something decisive -from my friend of the railway deputation, respecting the whereabouts -of the party, I hastened to the post-office, but met with no success. -Having taken every precaution respecting the due forwarding of any -letters from Florence, I made up my mind to wait patiently in Genoa -until some intelligence might reach me.</p> - -<p>I had been six days at the “Croce,” when the waiter handed me a letter. -It was from W——m, informing me that the parties were at Turin, and -that I might there make sure of finding them. By half-past two o’clock -I had taken my seat in the coupé of the <em>diligence</em>, between a -Spaniard and a pretty Turinese lady, and my friend W. having wished -me <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">bon voyage</i>, I was soon rattling away towards Alessandria, -passing over the blood-stained plains of Marengo, where fell the brave -Dessaix. We reached that city at ten at night. Some of the passengers -partook of a hearty supper<span class="pagenum" id="Page_364">[Pg 364]</span> which was in readiness for them, but my -fair fellow-traveller, who seemed to think that a few sweets and a cup -of hot coffee would suit her better, at so late an hour, than a heavy -meal, possessed herself of my arm in a way as unceremonious as it was -agreeable, and hurried me off to a brilliant café in the square, where -we passed one of the two hours which the conducteur had informed me -must elapse before the arrival of the branch mail from Tortona.</p> - -<p>At eight the next morning, we reached the Sardinian capital. On -repairing to the “Hotel de l’Europe,” I was ushered by a loquacious -waiter into the bedroom of a gentleman, who, being in the act of -donning his <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">corazza</i>, was not a little surprised, as his head -emerged slowly and carefully from out the well-starched front, to see -a dusty fellow in a slouched hat disappearing with a carpet bag. As I -found I had failed to escape his observation, I stammered an apology -in my very best Italian, which I found provocative of nothing beyond a -stare and an ejaculatory comment in sound English upon my impudence. -This latter was enough for me; the mistake was speedily explained, and -in another minute I had shaken hands with W——m, who occupied an inner -apartment. In the breakfast-room I was introduced to the rest, and a -more<span class="pagenum" id="Page_365">[Pg 365]</span> agreeable travelling party it certainly had never been my lot -to fall in with. It was enlivened moreover by the presence of several -ladies, whose charming society contrasted most pleasantly with the dull -and prosy discussions of the rooms above, in which the business of the -deputation was carried on.</p> - -<p>In submitting these sketches to the world, it forms no part of my -intention to detail the extraordinary efforts made by this body of -gentlemen, to carry out the grand object which had led them to Italy, -neither would it become me to describe the movements of a party by whom -I was only regarded in the light of a visitor, and in no other way -identified. But as an eye-witness to the unwearied exertions made by -the well-known leaders of that deputation, in the face of obstacles, -which at the very outset would have deterred less energetic men, I -<em>may</em> be allowed to express my own admiration of the clear-headed -tact which characterized their proceedings, and my firm conviction -that their undertaking would have been crowned with the most complete -success, had the exchequers of certain of the Italian states not been -so much upon a par with the short-sighted policy of their rulers.</p> - -<p>About a week after my arrival in Turin, I was invited to accompany -<abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> B——e, on a little engineering expedition<span class="pagenum" id="Page_366">[Pg 366]</span> to the Mont Cenis. -Fortified with an order from Marina, the Minister of the Interior, and -furnished with some provisions, and a change or two of linen, we left -the hotel at one o’clock, with a light carriage and pair of posters, -reaching the town of Susa about an hour before dusk. We employed this -interval in a walk to Jailliéres, a romantic little village commanding -a view of the valley of the Dora Susa, and enabling B——e to chalk out -a route for the ensuing day.</p> - -<p>The next morning we mounted a couple of strong mules, and escorted by -an intelligent guide, took our course up the Susa Valley, B——e, plan -in hand, making his observations by the way, with a view to discover -the most practicable course for a line of railway through or over some -portion of the Cenis. We halted for an hour at the town of Exilés, -where the valley, at that point very narrow, is guarded by a strong -fort. From hence the views, both up and down the course of the torrent, -are wild and beautiful. Farther on, at a little place called Oulx, the -road diverges into two branches, that to the south leading through -the valley of the Dora to Cesanno, and over the ridge to the French -frontier, the other following the course of the Dora Susa stream to its -rise under the Col de Frejus. This latter<span class="pagenum" id="Page_367">[Pg 367]</span> was our road. On leaving -Oulx, the valley widens into an extensive plain: a stony bridle path, -at one time lost in the stream, and at another skirting the edge of a -precipice, formed by the rushing of the waters, led us through several -pretty little villages to Bardoneche.</p> - -<p>I arrived here alone, my companion having left me a couple of hours -before, to explore another valley, whose direction he imagined might -be favourable to his views. The guide conducted me to a curious old -tumble-down sort of house, where an obliging individual, acting in the -various capacities of landlord, waiter, chambermaid, ostler, boots and -cook, set before me the knuckle-end of a cold leg of mutton, a piece -of cream cheese, and a yard of Genoese bread. I made a hearty dinner, -though I should have enjoyed my meal much more had B——e not been -absent. Having sat a long while solus, I strolled away in the direction -by which I had arrived. It was now dark, and fearing that my companion -might have lost his way in the mountains, I was beginning to feel -some alarm for his safety. Having walked upwards of a mile, I stopped -to listen: not a sound, save the rippling of the Dora Susa over its -broad and pebbly bed. At last I bethought myself that a <i lang="de" xml:lang="de">jodeln</i> -might perhaps be of service. I managed so<span class="pagenum" id="Page_368">[Pg 368]</span> loud a one, that it almost -startled me, but instead of being answered, as I fondly imagined it -might have been, by B——e, it was responded to in one quarter by a -series of echoes so beautifully perfect, that I tried it over and over -again. Listening to the sounds as they died away in the far distance, -I detected one which I felt sure was none of my own raising, and I -had travelled too far not to know that an Irish echo is never heard -south-east of Skibbereen. I listened again, and this time the sound -was so distinct, that I was convinced it came from my friend. Walking -onwards, I soon had the satisfaction of seeing him emerge from the Dora -Susa, which it appeared he had preferred to wade, rather than make a -wide detour along its banks. He had, as I had supposed, lost his way, -and after descending from a lofty part of the mountain, over a tract -of snow, which had wetted him nearly up to his middle, completed the -ducking by a stroll after dusk in the channel of the torrent.</p> - -<p>On returning to our quaint hostelrie, we discussed with the guides the -possibility of crossing the Col de Frejus, whose head was still covered -with a mantle of deep snow. Although quite ready to risk it with us, -they dissuaded us from the attempt, on the ground of our being the -first to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_369">[Pg 369]</span> venture, besides that the undertaking was by no means easy, -and as we were both too tired to like the idea of turning out of bed -at three in the morning, which would have been necessary to insure a -frozen surface on the snow, we gave up the idea of taking a peep into -France, and decided on a return to Susa.</p> - -<p>We were about starting, after an early breakfast, when our landlord -insisted upon showing us the new church, a mean little white-washed -building, of the most primitive description, although possibly -considered by the unsophisticated Bardonecchians as a gorgeous -temple. The good man appeared much flattered by our praises of its -architectural merits, and accompanied us beyond the precincts of the -village. I became so tired of riding, that I got off my mule to walk, -reaching Oulx long before my companions, and making acquaintance on the -road with a chatty mountaineer, who was on his way to the town to make -some purchases. He got on with my wine-flask very much better than I -with his patois, which was nearly unintelligible. The ride to Susa was -very charming, our guides striking into a bye-path which skirted the -Dora, and disclosed occasional glimpses of most romantic scenery. On -reaching the inn, I found a letter from W—m, recalling me immediately -to Turin, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_370">[Pg 370]</span> I was obliged to leave my companion to prosecute his -researches alone, whilst I took a place in the next vettura for that -city.</p> - -<p>My sudden recall had arisen, it appeared, in consequence of a -determination on the part of my friends at Turin, to visit other states -through which the course of the proposed line lay. And here I may draw -my somewhat unconnected narrative to a conclusion. It would be needless -to conduct the reader a second time to Ancona, Florence, and Rome, at -which last-mentioned city we made a stay of a fortnight, to effect -certain arrangements with the late Pope, and the Prince Torlonia, by -whom we were courteously received. From hence a party of us made a -sally to Naples and Leghorn, taking the steamer to Marseilles, and -travelling night and day to Paris in an open britska. Lingering a month -or two in the French capital, I returned to England in the spring, -after an absence of somewhat more than three years.</p> - - -<p class="center p2">THE END.</p> - - -<p class="center p2 small"><span class="smcap">Richard Barrett</span>, Printer, 13, Mark Lane, London.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter transnote"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="Transcribers_Notes">Transcriber’s Notes</h2> - - -<p>Errors in punctuation have been fixed.</p> - -<p>Apparent errors in spelling and accentuation in languages other than -English were not corrected.</p> - -<p><a href="#Page_29">Page 29</a>: “projector of the orginal Transit Company” changed to -“projector of the original Transit Company”</p> - -<p><a href="#Page_30">Page 30</a>: “gaudy labrynth” changed to “gaudy labyrinth”</p> - -<p><a href="#Page_154">Page 154</a>: “waving all ceremony” changed to “waiving all ceremony”</p> - -<p><a href="#Page_191">Page 191</a>: “extended prespect” changed to “extended prospect”</p> - -<p><a href="#Page_222">Page 222</a>: “geuine Vaterlander” changed to “genuine Vaterlander”</p> - -<p><a href="#Page_263">Page 263</a>: “dispersiou of the crowd” changed to “dispersion of the crowd”</p> - -<p><a href="#Page_267">Page 267</a>: “by Perngia” changed to “by Perugia”</p> -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin-top:4em'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SAND AND CANVAS ***</div> -<div style='text-align:left'> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Updated editions will replace the previous one—the old editions will -be renamed. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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