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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/6876.txt b/6876.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..f98175d --- /dev/null +++ b/6876.txt @@ -0,0 +1,4250 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The British Association's visit to +Montreal, 1884: Letters, by Clara Rayleigh + +Copyright laws are changing all over the world. Be sure to check the +copyright laws for your country before downloading or redistributing +this or any other Project Gutenberg eBook. + +This header should be the first thing seen when viewing this Project +Gutenberg file. Please do not remove it. Do not change or edit the +header without written permission. + +Please read the "legal small print," and other information about the +eBook and Project Gutenberg at the bottom of this file. Included is +important information about your specific rights and restrictions in +how the file may be used. You can also find out about how to make a +donation to Project Gutenberg, and how to get involved. + + +**Welcome To The World of Free Plain Vanilla Electronic Texts** + +**eBooks Readable By Both Humans and By Computers, Since 1971** + +*****These eBooks Were Prepared By Thousands of Volunteers!***** + + +Title: The British Association's visit to Montreal, 1884: Letters + +Author: Clara Rayleigh + +Release Date: November, 2004 [EBook #6876] +[Yes, we are more than one year ahead of schedule] +[This file was first posted on February 6, 2003] + +Edition: 10 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE BRITISH ASSOCIATION'S VISIT *** + + + + +Produced by Joshua Hutchinson, Juliet Sutherland, Charles Franks +and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team. +This file was produced from images generously made available +by the Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions. + + + + +THE BRITISH ASSOCIATION'S VISIT TO MONTREAL, 1884. + +LETTERS BY CLARA LADY RAYLEIGH, + +Printed for Private Circulation. + + + + +INTRODUCTION. + +THE BRITISH ASSOCIATION. + +(Reprinted from The Times, 1884) + +It seems early to begin to speak of the arrangements for the next +meeting of the British Association, but it is a far cry to Montreal, and +a proportionately long start must be made before the final leap is +taken. So heartily have the Dominion Government and the Canadian +_savants_ entered into the preparations that everything is ready; +all the presidents, vice-presidents and secretaries of sections have +been selected; all arrangements made with steamship companies and +American railways; all excursions have been planned, and all possible +routes provided for; instructions of the most detailed kind have been +drawn up for the guidance of members; nothing has been left, indeed, +except what depends on contingencies of time and place, so that +Professor Bonney and his legion of officials may at any moment take up +their portmanteaus and walk on shipboard. All this forwardness and +completeness are largely due to the zeal of the High Commissioner, Sir +Charles Tupper, and his energetic and obliging secretary, Mr. Colmer. +When the decision was come to at Southampton to hold the meeting of 1884 +in Canada there was widely expressed disapproval of the step, and doubt +as to its legitimacy; but the prospect of entertaining the upper +thousand of English science has evidently so greatly gratified our +Canadian brothers that even the most stiff-necked opponent of the +migration must be compelled to give in if he has a shred of good nature +and brotherly feeling left. There are doubtless a few grumblers who will +maintain that the Montreal assembly will not be a meeting of the +_British_ Association; but after all this Imperial Parliament of +Science could not be better occupied than in doing something to promote +science in one of the most important sections of the British dominions. +Indeed, since some maintain that so far as this country is concerned it +has almost ceased to have a _raison d'etre_, might it not extend +its functions and endeavour to exercise the same effective influence on +the promotion of science in other parts of the Empire as it has +undoubtedly done in the past in the Mother Country? It can scarcely hope +ever to hold a meeting either in Australia or India, nor even, we fear, +in South Africa; but there are other means Which it might adopt more +appropriately than any other body to encourage the progress of science +in these parts of the Empire, and make accessible to the public +interested in it the good work which is being done, at least in some of +the Australian colonies. In Canada itself there are several important +scientific societies; but so far as we know, they have no common bond of +union. Seeing that there is already an efficient American Association, +we should not advocate the formation of a separate Canadian body; but +possibly the Montreal meeting might be able to do something to +federalise the separate Canadian societies. We suggested some years ago +that the Association might do such a service to the numerous local +societies in this country, and we are glad to know that the suggestion +has borne fruit, and that already a real advance has been made in this +direction. + +But whatever may be the results of the Montreal meeting, it is clear +from the programme which has been drawn up that everything possible is +being done to render the occasion one of genuine enjoyment to all who +are fortunate enough to be present. The Canadian Parliament has voted so +handsome a sum for the entertainment of the Association that its +expenses are likely to be less than at an ordinary meeting. Provision +has been made for free passages and free living for fifty of the +officials, who need not spend a penny from the time they set foot upon +the steamer until they step ashore again upon their native land. Not +only so, but a sum of $14,000 has been allotted for the reduction of +members' passages to Canada in addition to any abatement of fares +allowed by the steamship companies. The most important of these +companies, sailing not only to Quebec and Montreal, but to New York and +Newport, offer reductions averaging about 10 per, cent, on the ordinary +fares. The companies who offer these advantages are the Allan, the +Dominion, the Beaver, White Star, Cunard, National, Anchor, Guion, +Inman, Monarch, and Union lines; so that intending visitors have ample +choice of route. On the other side, again, all the railway companies +have shown the greatest liberality. The Government railways are free to +all who produce members' vouchers. The Canada Pacific Line will from +July 1 up to the date of the departure of the special free excursion to +the Rocky Mountains, grant to visiting members free passes over its +lines to the northward (Rocky Mountains, Lake Superior, &c.) and +intermediate points. This company also offers to one hundred and fifty +members of the Association a free special excursion to the Rocky +Mountains, by way of Georgian Bay, Thursday Bay, and Winnipeg, providing +that those places passed during the night on the outward journey will be +repassed during the day on the return. The only thing members will have +to pay for will be meals, which will be provided at a rate not exceeding +2s. Arrangements, moreover, will be made for trips and excursions from +Toronto, across Lake Ontario to Niagara, under the direction of local +committees to be formed in both places, giving to all members an +opportunity of visiting the Falls. Various other excursions have been +liberally arranged for by the company, so that visitors will have ample +opportunity of seeing most that is worth seeing in Canada for +practically nothing. The Canada Atlantic Railway has also arranged for +several free excursions, while the Grand Trunk, the North Shore, the +Central Vermont, and other railways in the States offer tickets to +members at something like half the usual rates; thus those who proceed +to New York may visit various parts of the States before proceeding +northwards to Canada at extremely cheap rates. At all the Canadian +cities to be visited local committees will be organized to receive the +excursionists and to care for them during their stay. The circular +prepared for the members gives every information as to routes, +distances, fares, &c., so that they may make all their arrangements +before leaving England. The telegraph companies, not to be behindhand, +undertake to transmit messages during the meeting for members from +Montreal to all parts of Canada and the United States free of charge. + +Of course, it is not to be expected that all those advantages will be +given indiscriminately to all who may apply, and doubtless the great +accession of members at the Southport meeting was partly due to the +prospective visit to Canada. But only those members elected at or before +the Southampton meeting will share in the benefit of the $14,000 +allotted for reduction of passage money, and until further notice no new +members or associates can be elected except by special vote of the +Council. This is as it should be, otherwise the meeting would be largely +one of mere "trippers," instead of genuine representatives of British +science. The Council have taken every precaution to render the Montreal +Meeting one of real work, and no mere holiday; from respect to itself as +well as to its hosts, the Association is bound to show itself at its +best. At the same time, the Council have extended all the privileges of +associates to the near relatives of members to the number of three for +each, so that members will have no excuse for doing Canada _en +garcon_. Of course those applying for the privileges mentioned must +produce satisfactory evidence of their identity, and in return will +receive vouchers which will serve as passports on the other side. Those +desirous of obtaining information as to hotels and other local matters, +must apply to the local secretary, care of Mr. S. C. Stevenson, 181, St. +James's Street, Montreal. + +Already somewhere about six hundred applications nave been received, and +it is quite probable that at least one thousand members and associates +may be crowding across next August. Those members who wish to share in +the subsidy of $14,000 must apply before March 25, and no voucher will +be issued after July 20. We may say that the reduced railway fares +mainly extend from August 1 to the end of September. The active and +courteous secretary, Professor Bonney, on whom so much depends, will +arrive in Montreal three weeks before the opening of the meeting, August +27, for the purpose of securing that everything is in train. It is +expected that all the addresses will be printed here in time for +transmission to Montreal. So far at least as the officials are +concerned, the Canada Meeting will be a representative one. The +President elect, Lord Rayleigh, one of the most solid exponents of +British science, will certainly prove equal to the occasion. The +vice-presidents show a large Transatlantic contingent; they are, his +Excellency the Governor-General, Sir John A. Macdonald, Sir Lyon +Playfair, Sir Alexander Gait, Sir Charles Tupper, Sir Narcisse Dorion, +Hon. Dr. Chauveau, Principal Dawson, Professor Frankland, Dr. L. H. +Hingston, and Professor Sterry Hunt. Sir Joseph Hooker, we may say, has +also been nominated by the Council a vice-president, in place of the +late Sir C. W. Siemens. Perhaps it is scarcely necessary to state that +the general treasurer, Professor A W. Williamson, and the general +secretaries, Captain Douglas Galton and Mr. A. G. Vernon Harcourt, will +be present. There are five local secretaries and a local treasurer. The +presidents of the sections are all men of the highest standing in their +particular departments; it would be difficult, indeed, to suggest a +better selection. In Section A, Mathematical and Physical Science, it is +a great thing that Professor Sir William Thomson has been persuaded to +preside. No more representative chemist than Professor Roscoe could have +been obtained for Section B; in C, Geology; Mr. W. T. Blanford, the head +of the Indian Geological Survey, is sure to do honour to his subject; in +Section D, Biology, Professor Moseley, a man of thoroughly Darwinian +type of mind, will preside; in F, Economic Science, Sir Richard Temple +will be a host in himself; while in G, Mechanical Science, Sir F J. +Bramwell is sure to be vigorous and original; finally, in the new +section H, Anthropology, Dr. E. B. Tylor is the very man that ought to +have been selected. Lord Aberdare, we regret to say, has been compelled +to retire from the presidency of the Geographical Section; but for a +Canadian meeting no more suitable president could be obtained than the +veteran Arctic explorer, Sir Leopold McClintock, who, we trust, will be +persuaded to take the place of Lord Aberdare. All the vice-presidents +and secretaries of sections have been chosen with equal care; and thus +the Association has taken the very best means of proving to the +Canadians how highly they, appreciate the honour of the invitation, and +in what respect they hold their prospective audiences. For the public +lectures, the popular feature of the meetings, it is hoped to secure the +services of Professor W. G. Adams, the able Professor of Physics in +King's College, London, who it is hoped will be able to go; Dr. +Dallinger, the well-known-biologist, and Professor Ball, the witty and +eloquent Astronomer Royal for Ireland, who will deliver the popular +lecture _par excellence_. + +Thus it will be seen that every possible arrangement has been made that +could be made beforehand to insure complete success, and there can be +little doubt that neither the Association nor the Canadians will be +disappointed. Section A is following the example set last year in +Section D by Professor Ray Lankester. The Committee, as we have already +announced, are sending out a circular inviting mathematicians and +physicists to co-operate with them in sustaining discussions and +contributing papers; one of the special subjects for discussion in this +section on September 1st will be the vexed one of the connection between +sun spots and terrestrial phenomena. In conclusion we may say that the +American Association will meet in Philadelphia on September 3rd, and +those who have not had enough of science at Montreal can enjoy another +week of it at the Quaker City. The Philadelphia Committee have sent a +cordial invitation to the members of the British Association to attend +their meetings, offering to do the utmost in their power to make the +visit at once pleasant and profitable. This will be a red letter year in +the history of both Associations. + + + + +Letter No. 1. + + +_Thursday, August 21st, 1884; on board "PARISIAN,"--getting near +Newfoundland._ + +My beloved Mother.--I sent you some lines from the train on Saturday +16th, and a card to Clara after we arrived on board. This is a capital +ship, and lucky for us it is so, for we have had a regular gale. I +little thought it was possible that I should dislike any sea as I do +this Atlantic! It has been dreadful weather--grey in the clouds above +and waters beneath, and blowing hard, without anything to brighten the +vast waste of waters, and I have heartily wished myself away from it. +This truly humiliating state of things will cause you to triumph over +me, no doubt! I became uncomfortable and headachy and could do nothing, +nor bear to stay in the saloon, and the drawing room, such as it is, is +taken possession of by the men, who lay themselves down full length on +the seats and leave no room for any ladies, so I have stayed in my +cabin. Dr. Protheroe Smith has been quite a comfort to me. He is such a +good man, and so pleasant, and has given me things to read, and relates +interesting medical and religious experiences. While I write, an +enormous wave has dashed against my port light and given me a flash of +darkness. Hedley has been rather ill, but has never quite lost his +appetite. Gibson and the two others have held out well. Evelyn has been +in her berth since Monday, when it began to blow, but she has not been +really ill. John and Dick have braved the storm on deck, and say the +sight of the waves from the stern was magnificent, but I don't care for +this kind of awful uncomfortable magnificence, which makes me feel a +miserable shrimp, whose fate it is to be swallowed up by these raging +waves, and who well deserves it. So I only made a feeble attempt to get +to the deck on Monday, and was glad, to leave it in half an hour when it +rained. I went down to the drawing room to look at some men playing +chess, but as the others stared at me as if I had no right to be there, +and the motion was very bad, I had soon to leave ignominiously. Mr. +Barrett has entertained me with some ghost stories, well authenticated +and printed for private circulation. I have begun writing this to-day +because there seems some chance of posting it on Saturday or Sunday, +when Sir Leonard and Lady Tilley and two sons are to be landed at New +Brunswick as we pass down the Straits of Belle Isle, I think. I shall +not see your birth-place as we shall be too far off. + + +_Friday, 22nd._--I went upon deck after breakfast in a great hurry +to see an iceberg. I was greeted with great kindness by every one after +my three days' seclusion, and thoroughly enjoyed the day and the ocean +for the first time. It was very cold but clear and sparkling, and there +was no motion to speak of; after the gale, and the great hills and +valleys of the Atlantic roll in a storm, it seemed impossible it could +be so smooth; but we are to have every experience of weather, as a fog +came on and we steamed very slowly and blew fog signals for an hour! +However, the sun broke forth and lifted the curtain of fog, and within a +quarter of a mile we saw a beautiful iceberg twelve or fifteen hundred +feet deep, they said, and so beautiful in its ultra marine colouring. +The shape was like a village church somewhat in ruins. Miss Fox, a +sister of Caroline Fox, is on board and sketched the icebergs and the +waves during the storm very cleverly. They were also photographed by Mr. +Barrett and a professional. After dinner we were all on deck again and +watched for the lights on the coast of Labrador, which mark the entrance +into the Straits of Belle Isle, and at last a twinkle caught my eye and +we all greeted it with joy! Isn't it wonderful that a ship can be +steered across that vast expanse of water straight to this light, in +spite of clouds and storms and without the sight of sun or moon or +stars? If I was teaching a class I should quote this as a good +illustration of "God's mysterious ways." We wander on through all the +changes, and chances of this mortal life, and we don't know the why, or +when, or where, but at last we see the lights of heaven looming on our +horizon and are at the haven where we would be. Then we realize that all +the time He was guiding us by ways that we knew not! In the evening we +heard an auction amusingly carried on, though I did not approve of the +gambling connected with it; and then Mr. Barrett gave a short account of +apparitions, and there was a discussion. + +I am now writing after breakfast on Saturday and we expect to reach +Quebec on Sunday night. It will be a dreadful disappointment if we don't +see the first view, which is so fine, by daylight. We entered the Gulf +of St. Lawrence last night (Friday). I give you a list of our saloon +fellow passengers and you will see that I knew a good many of them +before. + +LIST OF SALOON PASSENGERS PER S. "PARISIAN," (CAPTAIN JAMES WYLIE,) FOR +QUEBEC, AUGUST 16TH, 1884. + + Mr. H. Alabaster + Mr. A. H. Allen + Dr. J. T. Arlidge + Mr. Atchison + Mr. B. Baker + Major E. Bance + Miss Barlow + Mr. W. F. Barrett + Dr. Beamish + Mr. G Belyea + Mr. G W. Bloxam + Miss Bodman + Dr. H. Borns + Mr. Stephen Bourne + Miss E E. Bourne + Miss E. M. Bourne + Mr. A. H. Bradley + Sir Frederick Bramwell + Mr. R. G. Brook + Mr. Robert Capper + Mrs. Capper + Mr. G. C. Chatterton + Mr. W. H. Clemmey + Mr. C. Cooke + Mrs. Cooper + Miss Cooper + Mr. F. B. C. Costelloe + Mr. Crampton + Mrs. Crampton + Mr. Crookshank + Mr. W. C. Davy + Miss Daw + Mr. W. Boyd Dawkins + Mr. Thomas Denman + Prof. Dewar + Mrs. Dewar + Mr. G. E. Dobson + Mr. R. Edminson + Mr. E. Farnworth + Mr. J. Fewings + Prof. G. Forbes + Mr. R Formby + Mr. C. Le Neve Foster + Mr. Howard Fox + Miss Fox + Prof. Fream + Hon. C. W. Fremantle + Capt. Douglas Galton + Mr. John L. Garsed + Dr. J. H. Gilbert + Mrs. Gilbert + Mr. J. H. Gladstone + Miss Gladstone + Miss Gladstone + Miss Gladstone + Mr. J. H. Glover + Mr. A. G. Greenhill + Mr. Egbert de Hamel + Mr. N. C. Hardcastle + Mr. B. W. Hardcastle + Dr. G. Harley + Mr. N. B. Harley + Miss Harris + Mr. R. T. Herford + Miss A. C. Herford + Mr. Horniman + Mr. W. Hurst + Mr. John Jones + Rev. Harry Jones + Mr. George Oliver Jones + Miss Fanny Jones + Mr. R. H. Jones + Hon. Mrs. Joyce + Rev. A. G. Joyce + Mr. Simeon Kaye + Mr. J. W. Leahy + Mr. B. T. Leech + Mrs. Leech + General Sir J. H. Lefroy, K. C. M. G. + Lady Lefroy, and Maid + Mr. James A. Love + Mr. William Lukes + Mr. W. Macandrew + Mr. G. Mackay + Mr. U. Mackay + Mr. Harry Mackeson + Mr. James Mackrell + Mr. Samuel Marsden + Mr. James Mactear + Mr. W. P. Marshall + Dr. W. R. McNab + Mr. C. T. Mitchell + Mr. W. J. Muirhead + Mr. Hugo M. Muller + Mr. E. K. Muspratt + Miss J. Muspratt + Mr. J. S. O'Halloran + Admiral Sir E. Ommanney + Mr. W. H. Perkin + Mr. W. H. Perkin, Jun. + Mr. L. G. Pike + Mr. Benjamin Pilling + Mr. John Pilling + Mrs. Pilling + Mr. John Powell + Mr. W. H. Preece + Mr. P. Price + Mrs. Price + Lord Rayleigh + Lady Rayleigh + Clara Lady Rayleigh, and Maid + Mr. J. B. Readman + Mr. A. W. Reinold + Mr. C. Richardson + Mr. R. Richardson + Mrs. Richardson + Mr. A. Rigg + Mr. A. F. Riddell + Mrs. Riddell + Rev. J. Robberds + Prof. W. Chandler Roberts + Mrs. Roberts + Mr. G. H. Robertson + Mrs. Robertson + Canon Rogers + Mr. W. Rogers + Earl of Rosse + Mr. P. L. Sclater + Mr. W. L. Sclater + Mr. Sydney C. Scott + Mr. A. Sedgwick + Prof. H. S. Hele Shaw + Prof. J. P. Sheldon + Mr. George Smith + Dr. P. Smith + Dr. H. Smith + Prof. W. J. Sollas + Mr. E. Sollas + Mr. Sowden + Mr. A. Sowden + Dr. W. D. Spanton + Mr. Russell Stephenson + Mr. T. H. Stockwell + Hon. R. Strutt + Hon. H. V. Strutt + Mr. A. Summers + Mr. R. W. Cooke-Taylor + Mrs. Cooke-Taylor + Mr. T. H. Thomas + Dr. Alex. S. Thomson + Mr. William Thomson + Mr. W. J. Thomson + Dr. H. G. Thompson + Sir Leonard Tilley, K.C.M.G., C.B. + Lady Tilley + Master Herbert Tilley + Master Leonard Tilley + Mr. W. Topley + Mr. W. Tribe + Mr. G. S. Turner + Capt. H. S. Walker + Mrs. Walker + Mr. Ward + Miss Ward + Mr. C. A. Wells + Rev. E. Wells + Mr. Westgarth + Mrs. Westgarth + Mrs. Westgarth + Mr. W. Whitaker + Miss E. H. Williamson + Mr. E. S. Williams + Miss Wilson + Rev. H. H. Winwood + Mr. Alfred Wood + Mrs. Wood + Mr. H. T. Wood + Mr. A. W. Worthington + Miss Worthington + Mr. T. Wrightson + Mr. F. York + Mrs. York + +This afternoon was very dull and grey. I played a game of four chess, +and there was a concert in the evening,--every two or three minutes +broken in upon by the roar of a wild beast called the fog horn. It was +very funny to hear the apropos way it came in when Canon Rogers was +reciting Hiawatha. "Minnihaha said ----" then a roar! One of the party +read a paper, and a really witty burlesque on this supposed wild beast +and its anatomy. John is so well and, I think, very popular: Evelyn is a +much better sailor than one anticipated. Captain Douglas Galton told me +John's address was admirable, but I would not read it, as I want to +judge of it as others will, when it is delivered. I have had no +_whist!_ think of that--at first people were too ill, and then so +much on deck, and they play in the smoking room, I hear, and perhaps +gamble for higher stakes than I like!--which perhaps you will say is not +surprising as I never play for anything. + + +_Sunday, August 24th._--We have had a bright but cold day and +brisk wind--in fact I have felt colder than when the icebergs were round +us! We had service in the morning--Mr. Joyce read prayers' and Canon +Rogers preached; and at three we Lad the excitement of seeing Sir +Leonard and Lady Tilley, and two sons, with innumerable packages, taken +off in a tug to New Brunswick--_Rimouski_ was the name of the +town, and the still greater excitement followed of receiving from it the +Secretary of the Lodging Committee at Montreal, who brought quantities +of letters, papers, &c. I had a letter from Mr. Angus, asking me and a +son to stay with them during our visit to Montreal, and it is close to +where Dick is invited (Mr. and Mrs. McClennan's), and near John and +E---. I also heard from Mr. Dobell, very kindly offering his house and +carriage for my use while at Quebec; he and his family are away camping +in the woods. You never saw a scene of greater excitement than the +appearance of the saloon when the President opened the parcel containing +letters, newspapers, and telegrams, after a week's total abstinence from +all news; everyone _seized_ upon their respective letters, &c., +with eagerness; the only person who did not look happy, was John, for he +found the arrangements made would be too much for him, and he and +Captain Gallon set themselves to try and alter them, in which I hope +they will succeed. The Secretary sat opposite me at dinner, and told me +how anxious they all were to make everything comfortable for us. It is +doubtful whether we stay at Quebec to-morrow night, or go on to Montreal +at once, as there is to be an excursion on Friday next to Quebec, and +grand reception, and picnic or garden party on the following day. If you +find a difficulty in reading the indelible pencil, tell me; it is more +convenient to use travelling. We had an interesting conference on prayer +this afternoon (Sunday), and I have just returned from another smaller +one. A scientific man asked questions as to whether we could +_prove_ answers to prayer would be given for _physical_ +blessings, or what we consider such; or whether prayer was only a +sentiment (as Tyndal thinks)? Professor Barrett and a dear old +clergyman, Canon Rogers (who, in my ignorance, I had thought, at first, +was a "dry stick") argued the matter with him, and also Dr. P. Smith and +his son, and Miss Fox and I said a few words. Now, about nine o'clock, +they are all singing hymns, very much out of tune. I must finish this up +now for it must be posted to-morrow, or may miss the mail on Tuesday. I +have thoroughly enjoyed the last three days, and am almost sorry the +voyage is over, and so, I think, are many of my fellow passengers. Some +of them are very good and nice. Miss Fox is delightful--upwards of +eighty, and yet so full of interest in everything good and beautiful; +she is like a piece cut out of the old past, and a very wonderful old +fossil, full of energy and cleverness. Hedley desires his love, and is +very well and happy. We go to 240, Drummond Street, Montreal, on Monday +or Tuesday, Dick in same street, and John and E--- near. Gibson has +never been ill at all! Good-bye, now, and God bless you all, darling +Mother, and everyone dear to me at home. Two or three times during the +gale, Hedley and I said to each other, "How nice it would be to be +sitting with you at No. 90, O--- G---."--but now we have not that +desire' From your loving child,--C. R. + + + + +Letter No. 2. + + +_Tuesday, August 26th, Beavoir, Quebec._ + +My first letter was brought up to 24th. I forgot to tell you then of an +interesting discussion with a clever and honest infidel, Mr. X---. +Through ---- (who had told me about him), I had lent him "Natural Law," +and (seeing him standing about looking, I thought, rather sad as we were +all singing "Rock of Ages, cleft for me") I asked him his opinion of the +book, and he said "on Mr. D.'s assumption of the existence of a Personal +God, it is very clever, and with your views I would certainly circulate +it." Of course, I could not argue with a man well armed at all points +for attack (as these infidels generally are), though they are weak +enough at defence, their explanations of life's mysteries being as +unsatisfactory and vague as that of any ignorant Bible woman; and so +when others joined us I gave way, and he said as a _crusher_--"I +see you are a very sincere and conscientious lady, but you are very +_fanatical_." I replied, as my parting shot, "Well, of course, I +cannot do justice to my cause, but at any rate you have nothing to offer +_me_; convince me and others, if you can, that we are wrong (and +thank God we have a noble army on our side), what have you to give us in +the place of our beliefs? Nothing! a mere negation." He answered--"What +have you to give me?" "Oh," I replied, "a mere _nothing, only_ +peace and power for holiness now and a glorious hope for the future, and +so (shaking hands) good bye." I could scarcely speak to him for crying, +for it was so painful to hear his words about our Blessed Saviour. After +our discussion on prayer in the back cabin, a young man who was there +and who was sitting near me while I was writing to you, began to talk it +over. "Well," I said, "the best answer to those objections about prayer +that I know, is to try it, and then I am sure no arguments will then +shake your confidence that there is a God who heareth and answereth +prayer." It is like our Lord's cure of the blind man. "How did He do +it?" they ask, and ask in vain for any explanation which could be +understood, but the man says "I don't know, but whereas I was blind, now +I see," and the Pharisees beat themselves to pieces against that rock. +You may imagine I went to my berth heartily tired after the excitement +of this long day. + + +_Monday, 25th._--I got up at six and rushed on deck, and with a +lovely clear sky and shining sun and a brisk breeze, I found we were +steaming along the river St. Lawrence. We devoured with our eyes the +beautiful views on each side, mountains of blue and violet, wooded to +their summits, and Canadian villages nestling at their feet on the banks +of the river, with glittering spires of _blanche_ for every seven +miles, like tall milestones, and then we reached the entrance to Quebec, +which is indeed magnificent! the splendid water-way, with the fine +position of Quebec, makes it a grand sight, and I was not disappointed; +and the clear and brilliant morning sunshine showed us all to +perfection. Then came such a scene of hurry and confusion,--but we were +favored: Captain R. Stephenson, the Governor-General's A.D.C., who had +been our fellow passenger, received instructions from him, and we were +conveyed in a police steamboat to the other side--to the Citadel; there +was also a letter from Lord Lansdowne to John, asking him and E--- and +any of his party to breakfast, brought by Captain Streatfield, another +A.D.C. Our maids and luggage were left in charge of the police at their +wharf station. On reaching the wharf a carriage conveyed us to the +Citadel,--such a drive, up the side of a house! over a great many +boulders. A curious old town is Quebec--thoroughly like a French town, +with French spoken everywhere, and French dirt and air of poverty and +untidiness, as in the remoter and older towns of France. + +Lord and Lady Lansdowne received us most kindly, and besides there was +Lady Florence Anson (her niece, who is engaged to Captain Streatfield), +Lady Melgund, whose husband is away in Ottawa looking after canoe men +for Egypt, and a young Mr. Anson, A.D.C. After seeing the view from the +balcony--a splendid panorama of Quebec and the river St. Lawrence, with +its tributary St. Charles, and the surrounding country backed by blue +mountains, we went in to our second breakfast, and much we enjoyed our +tea. Lord Lansdowne sat next me and was very pleasant. Afterwards he +asked John and E--- and me and the boys to dine, apologising for not +asking us all to sleep there, on the grounds of not having room, which +is true enough, for the house is not large. I thought it best to decline +for myself and two sons, as I was going with them for the night to this +place (Mr. Dobell's), four miles away. Then came a Secretary of the +Local Committee to discuss arrangements with John, and alter the +programme somewhat for next Friday and Saturday, when we are expected to +revisit Quebec. + +John is much afraid that the long-list of engagements will bring on his +rheumatism and knock him up for the real Business in Montreal. After +this we had the carriage and drove in state to the Hotel where John and +E--- were to sleep, arranged about our berths on the steamer for +Montreal, saw numbers of our fellow-passengers who had not gone to +Montreal, and drove to the wharf and only brought a little luggage to +come here with. They told me I should not want umbrellas ("Our climate +here is very different from yours," said they), nor wraps, but I +persisted in bringing a few, fortunately, for it has been pouring all +night and up to this time (twelve o'clock Wednesday), and it was so cold +besides. While at the hotel (I forgot to mention _that_) a card was +handed to me with Mr. Price's name on it. I could not think who he was, +but he soon came and mentioned Capt. F--- (Julia Spicer's son-in-law), +and then I remembered he had promised to mention us to the Prices. He +offered to drive one of the ladies in his buggy to his house near the +Montmerenci Falls, where we were all to lunch, and E--- went in it, and +the rest of us drove in another carriage to his place, about five miles +off. The drive was delightful and his cottage a picture--a little, fat, +fair motherly woman for a wife, with two little chicks, and a lady +friend. They took us down some steps to the Falls, the river Montmerenci +falling 500 feet, and it was very fine, the view being improved by the +figures of our fellow-passengers on the opposite side making struggling +efforts to gain good positions, which we achieved in all ease and +comfort. Then we returned to an excellent luncheon, very pleasantly +diversified to us by Indian corn, which we learned to eat in an +ungraceful but excellent fashion on the cob, blueberry tart and cream. +This was our _third_ substantial meal on Tuesday. Several visitors +called, and among them our fellow-passengers, Mr. Stephen Bourne and his +daughters and two friends, who are also staying here, a gentleman with +three other ladies (two of whom had been on the "Parisian") who said he +had been staying lately with one of them in Cheshire, so I concluded he +was an English-Canadian and said heartily: "That's right, keep up with +the old country. You come to see us and we come to see you." And he +responded graciously, but I heard after that he was a French-Canadian +and R. C., and they are not fond of England, but cling very much to +French ways and customs and are entirely in the hands of their priests. +They are a quiet, moral people, marry very young and have very large +families. It is quite common to hare ten children, and they live at what +we should call a starvation rate; yet they will not go to service, +contribute hardly anything to the revenue, and so the English, who are +the only active and money-making section of the population, are heavily +taxed; of course _I_ speak of the poor and working classes. The +province of Quebec is, therefore, not a favourite one with enterprising +spirits from our shores or from other parts of Canada. + +After these visitors were gone, Mr. Price drove me and E---, and the +rest walked, to the "Natural Steps." It was a beautiful spot, the clear +torrent of the river Montmerenci falling in cascades over a curious +formation of layers of stone and steps on either side, with the bright +green _arbor vitae_, which they call cedar, growing above and in +every niche it can find a bit of soil; wild raspberries and strawberries +too, which, alas, were over. We met several of our fellow-passengers, +and we greet one another like long-lost friends. On our return we found +Mrs. Price had cuddled her ailing boy to sleep and could give us some +attention. We had delicious tea and cake (our fourth meal). Mr. Price +comes from Boss, in Herefordshire, and has been twelve years away from +it. He is very nice and intelligent. Her brother owns the Falls and +lives in a pretty cottage near. Edison, the electric light inventor, has +bought the power of these falls for electric purposes. John was thinking +all the time how useful they might be made. We returned to the hotel in +time for John and E--- to dress for the Governor-General's dinner party. +We took a little baggage and Gibson and came here--a dark drive, and we +were shaken to bits in what is justly called a _rockaway_ carriage. +We were met at the door by Mr. Dobell, much to our surprise, for he and +his family had returned unexpectedly from camping out, as it proved a +failure, and rushed home to receive us. She is handsome, and quite +English in tone and manner, daughter of the Minister of the Interior, +Sir David Macpherson. Mr. Dobell is very bright and pleasant-looking, +the house pretty and comfortable, with large conservatory. We Had a +tremendous supper (our fifth meal) and so I could hardly do justice to +it. I went to bed very tired after this hard day's work and awoke this +morning to find it pouring, so I have been taking advantage of the quiet +to write to you. Dick and Mr. Dobell went to Quebec, and we follow at +three. They hope to have some organ-playing in the Cathedral. Mr. S. +Bourne and his young ladies are also gone, and we are to leave at three +and start at five in the river steamboat for Montreal. Tell Edward and +Lisa, &c., &c., about us. We all thoroughly enjoyed everything yesterday +except that we wanted warmer clothes. They had tremendous heat here +before we arrived, and so every one was advising us to wear light +clothing!--and the weather changed! + + + + +LETTER NO. 3 + + +_August 29th, 240, Drummond Street, Montreal._ + +We left the hospitable Dobells on Tuesday, 26th, took our luggage from +the police station, receiving many bows and much politeness from the +several Canadians in charge and, with about one thousand others, besides +soldiers, went on board a very large steamer--a new experience, for +these river steamers are quite different from anything we see on this +side, even I think, on the Rhine,--the Lansdownes were in it and we saw +something of them. An uncomfortable night, and were glad to reach this, +Wednesday morning, at about eight o'clock. Such a mass of luggage and +people, but as Mr. Angus kindly sent a carriage and man to meet us, I +did very well and arrived safely with all mine. + +I drove with Hedley and Miss Angus in the afternoon (there are four +grown-up young ladies) and finally got out at the Queen's Hall, where +the Mayor read an address in French, and after Sir William Thomson had +spoken, John said a few words. There was a great crowd here, and we sang +"God Save the Queen" with enthusiasm. We dined at half-past six and +afterwards the two Misses Angus and Hedley and I drove to the Hall. + +Lord and Lady Lansdowne sat on the platform, and after a nice speech +from him, Sir William Thomson introduced John as the new President with +many compliments. Then, dear John, looking so nice, with a clear voice, +read his address, and I am told it was heard even in the gallery at the +end. I liked it extremely, and people seem to think it was very good. +Our party, Evelyn, Dick, &c., sat in the front row, and when John read +one or two passages which he thought would particularly "fetch" me, he +looked with a little twinkle in my direction and of course I twinkled in +return. + +[The following account is reprinted from the "Montreal Gazette," August +28th, 1884.] + +Everything combined to favour the opening day of the British Association +meeting yesterday. Bright skies overhead, and weather not too warm, and +tempered by a cooling breeze, made what outdoor work had to be done +pleasant and prevented indoor proceedings from being oppressive. Adding +to these conditions the general enthusiasm which prevailed, the presence +of so many notable personages, distinguished in the worlds of science, +of politics, of letters and of mercantile pursuits, and the attendance +of so large a number of the fair sex, who evinced the greatest interest +in the proceedings, and it will be seen that the opening could not have +taken place under more pleasing auspices. Whilst the city in general +showed an extra amount of life and bustle, the interest naturally +centered in the grounds of McGill University, which presented a bright +and lively scene. In the reception room in the William Molson Hall there +was a constant succession of visitors, and the various offices wore a +busy air. In the grounds a new and picturesque effect was made by a +couple of marquees wherein luncheon was served, and the grounds +themselves, the grassy lawns and wooded walks, were the constant resort +of ladies and gentlemen. The morning was spent by the visitors either in +visits to the offices and reception rooms, the arrangement of papers, or +in "doing" the city. At one o'clock the first work of the meeting +commenced in the meeting of the general committee. Subsequently, at half +past four, the visitors were formally welcomed by the mayor and +corporation in the Queen's Hall, which was the scene of a brilliant +gathering, and in the evening the first general meeting of the +Association took place in the same hall, when the representative of the +retiring president resigned the presidential office, which was assumed +by the new president, Lord Rayleigh. Additional interest and distinction +was given to the proceedings yesterday by the presence of His Excellency +the Governor-General and the Marchioness of Lansdowns, and the Right +Hon. Sir John A. Macdonald, Premier of the Dominion. Full reports of all +the meetings and speeches together with other particulars of interest +will be found subjoined. + + + + +MEETING OF THE GENERAL COMMITTEE. + + +A meeting of the general committee of the Association was held in the +James Ferrier Hall, Wesleyan College, at one o'clock yesterday +afternoon, Sir William Thomson presiding. + +The minutes of the meeting at Southport were read by the secretary, Rev. +Prof. Bonney, and confirmed. + + + + +THE REPORT OF THE COUNCIL. + + +Capt. Douglas Galton, General Secretary, then read the annual report of +the council, which stated that since the meeting at Southport, Dr. F. +Lindemaun and Dr. Ernst Schroeder had been elected corresponding members +of the Association, and proceeded as follows:--"The present meeting of +the British Association, the fifty-fourth in number, is likely to be +long memorable in its annals, as the first held beyond the limits of the +United Kingdom. It marks a new point of departure, and one probably +never contemplated by the founders of the Association, although not +forbidden by the laws which they drew up. The experiment was doubtless a +hazardous one, but it seems likely to be justified by success, and it +may be hoped that the vigour and vitality gained by new experience may +ultimately compensate for the absence from this meeting of not a few +familiar faces among the older members; there will, however, be as large +a gathering of members of more than one year's standing as is usual at a +successful meeting in Great Britain, and the efforts which have been +made by our hosts to facilitate the coming of members and render their +stay in Canada both pleasant and instructive, call for the warmest +acknowledgment. The inducements offered to undertake the journey were +indeed so great that the council felt that it would be necessary to +place some restriction upon the election of new members, which for many +years past, though not unchecked in theory, has been almost a matter of +course in practice. Obviously these offers of the Canadian hosts of the +British Association were made to its members, not to those on whom they +might operate as an inducement to be enrolled among its members. The +council, therefore, before the close of the Southport meeting, published +the following resolution:--"That after the termination of the present +month (September, 1883), until further notice, new members be only +elected by special resolution of the council." Applications for +admission under these terms were very numerous, and were carefully +sifted by the council. Still, although the council as time progressed +and the number augmented, increased the stringency of their +requirements, it became evident that the newly elected members would +soon assume an unduly large proportion to those of older standing, so +that on May 6th, after electing 130 members under this rule, it was +resolved to make no more elections until the commencement of the +Montreal meeting, when it would be safe to revert to the usual practice. +The details of the arrangements made for the journey have already been +communicated to the members, so that it is needless to make any further +special reference to them, but the council have to acknowledge the great +liberality of the associated cable companies in granting, under certain +restrictions, free ocean telegraphy to the members of the Association +during the meeting. The death of Sir William Siemens has deprived the +Association of one of its most earnest supporters and friends. It was +during his presidency at Southampton that the invitation to Montreal was +accepted, and he was appointed at Southport a vice-president for this +meeting. The council nominated Sir J. D. Hooker a vice-president, but +he was unfortunately obliged, for domestic reasons, to resign the +nomination in the early part of the summer. It has been the custom at +meetings of the Association to invite the attendance of distinguished +men of science from all parts of the world, but the council considered +that on the present occasion it would be well to offer a special welcome +to the American Association (of which also several eminent Canadian men +of science are members); they have accordingly issued an invitation to +the standing committee and fellows of that Association to attend the +meeting at Montreal on the footing of honorary members." + +The Report then referred to the fact that the general treasurer had been +prevented from being present at the meeting, and that as the usual +assistant to the general treasurer could not also be present, they had +nominated Admiral Sir Erasmus Ommanney, C.B., F.R.S., as deputy +treasurer, and Mr. Harry Brown, assistant secretary of University +College, London, as financial officer. The Report proceeded to state +that the council had, after consideration, decided to form a separate +section of anthropology, and reported with reference to the resolution +referred to them by the general committee, "That application be made to +the Admiralty to institute a Physical and Biological Survey of Milford +Haven, and the adjacent coast of Pembrokeshire, on the plan followed by +the American Fisheries Commission." They had done so, and had been +informed by the Lords of H. M. Treasury, that they regretted to be +unable to institute such a survey, as the Admiralty had no vessels +available for this service. With regard to the Report of the Committee +of Section A respecting the suppression of four of the seven principal +observatories of the Meteorological Council, and to forward a copy of +the same to the Meteorological Council, they reported that arrangements +had been made, whereby three out of the four observatories relinquished +by the Meteorological Council would be continued, though on a somewhat +different footing. The council also reported that they had sent a +communication to the Executive Committee of the International Fisheries +Exhibition, urging upon that body the appropriation of a sufficient sum +out of the surplus funds remaining in their hands at the close of the +Exhibition, to found a laboratory on the British Coast for the study of +marine zoology; but there did not seem any prospect of such an +appropriation of the surplus funds. The Report then referred to the +Report of the Committee on local scientific societies, and detailed the +alterations which its adoption would make necessary in the rules, +stating that it was proposed to reserve the consideration of this +question by the general Committee for the meeting to be held in London +in November. The Report concluded as follows: "The vacancies in the +council to be declared at the General Committee Meeting in November will +be Lord Rayleigh, who has assumed the presidency, together with the +following who retire in the ordinary course: Mr. G. Darwin, Mr. +Hastings, Dr. Huggins and Dr. Burdon Sanderson, and the council will +recommend for re-election on that occasion the other ordinary members of +council, with the addition of the gentlemen whose names are +distinguished by an asterisk in the following list:--*Abney, Capt. R. +E., Adams, Professor W. G., *Ball, Professor B. S., Bateman, J. F. La +Trobe, Esq., Bramwell, Sir F. Dawkins, Professor W. Boyd, De La Rue, Dr. +Warren, Dewar, Professor J., Evans, Captain Sir F., Flower, Professor W. +H., Gladstone, Dr. J. H., Glaisher, J. W. L., Esq., Godwin-Austen, +Lieut-Col. H. H., Hawkshaw, J. Clarke, Esq., Henrici, Professor 0., +Hughes, Professor T. McK., Jeffreys, Dr. J. Gwyn, *Moseley, Professor H. +N, *Ommaney, Admiral Sir E, Pengelly, W., Esq., Perkin, W. H., Esq., +Prestwich, Professor, Sclater-Booth, The Right Hon. George, Sorby, Dr. +H. C., *Temple, Sir R." In accordance with the decision arrived at by +them at Southport, the General Committee will meet on Tuesday, 11th +November, at Three o'clock in the afternoon in the Theatre of the Royal +Institution, Albemarle Street, London, W., for the transaction of the +following business, viz:--To elect the president, officers and council +for 1884-85; to fix the date of meeting for 1885; to appoint the place +of meeting for 1886; and to consider the alteration of rules necessary +to give effect to the recommendation of the Committee on local +scientific societies. + +On motion of the Chairman the Report was adopted. + + + + +AN ADDRESS FROM THE ROYAL SOCIETY. + + +The President of the Royal Society, Dr. T. Sterry-Hunt, then read the +following address:-- + +_To the President and Council of the British Association for the +Advancement of Science._ + +The Royal Society of Canada greets with cordial welcome the members of +your Association on the occasion of its first visit to the American +continent, and rejoices to find among those who have accepted the +invitation of the citizens of Montreal so many names, renowned as +leaders of scientific research. + +The Royal Society of Canada, which is a body recently organized and in +the third year of its existence, includes not only students of natural +history and natural philosophy, who make up together one-half of its +eighty members, but others devoted to the history and the literature of +the two great European races, who are to-day engaged in the task of +building up in North America a new nation under the shelter of the +British flag. + +Recognizing the fact that material progress can only be made in +conjunction with advancement in literature and in science, we hail your +visit as an event destined to give a new impulse to the labours of our +own students, believing at the same time that the great problems of +material nature, not less than the social and political aspects of this +vast realm, will afford you subjects for profitable study, and trusting +that when your short visit is over, you will return to your native land +with kindly memories of Canada and a confidence that its growth in all +that makes a people good and great is secured. + +T. STERRY HUNT, President, + +JOHN GEO. Bourniot, Hon. Secretary. + + +_Montreal, August 27, 1884._ + +Dr. Hunt's predecessor in office, the Hon. Dr. CHAUVEAU, followed and +after a few introductory remarks read the address in French. + +Sir WILLIAM THOMSON, in replying, said:--I am sure all the members of +the general committee are greatly gratified with the warm welcome +accorded to us in the addresses just delivered on behalf of the two +great divisions of our countrymen in this province, the English and +French races. It is very gratifying to see this cordial unanimity +existing between them, and in the name of the general committee I beg to +express our warmest thanks for these addresses of welcome. (Applause.) + +Dr. T. STERRY HUNT said he would now, with their permission, read an +address which had been transmitted by the committee of reception at the +neighbouring town of Chambly, where a memorial tablet was to be placed +at the old fort at that place on Saturday next. The address was as +follows:-- + +Mr. STERRY HUNT will please do the reception committee at Chambly the +honour to represent them before the members of the British Association +for the advancement of science, and to inform them that at Chambly, on +the 30th instant, at half-past three o'clock, there will be the ceremony +of placing a tablet in the old Fort Chartrain, built by France in 1711 +against the English, now its allies. + +The presence of members of the British Association at this ceremony will +be regarded as an honour by the Canadian people of the shores of the +Richelieu. It will be for them an encouragement, and for our young +country a proof of the interest felt in Europe for all that belongs to +history, whether shown in the preservation of old monuments, or in the +placing therein of memorial tablets. + +Chambly was long a military post occupied at times by men famous alike +in French and English annals. It is also the birthplace of Albam, the +famous Canadian singer, and here are buried the remains of de Salaberry, +the Canadian Leonidas, in whose honour a statue has lately been erected. +Mr. Sterry Hunt will please present the respects of the Chambly +committee to the members of the British Association while accepting them +for himself, and will believe me his most obedient servant, + +J. O. Dies, Secretary-General of the Committee. + + +_Chambly, August 25,1884._ + +On Saturday next, Dr. Hunt explained there would be an excursion at 2 +p.m. to Chambly from the city. He knew that other excursions had been +arranged for to Quebec and elsewhere, and he had no wish to interfere +with these arrangements, but those who chose to avail themselves of his +cordial invitation would find a visit to Chambly exceedingly +interesting. + +Sir WM. THOMPSON returned cordial thanks to Mr. Dion for his kind +invitation, and felt sure many members of the association would avail +themselves of it. + + + + +THE CIVIC RECEPTION. + + +Fully an hour before the time for presenting the civic address crowds +of people began to ascend the stairs leading to the Queen's Hall, and by +half-past four o'clock the hall was filled to overflowing, and when the +mayor and aldermen, with the members of the British Association put in +an appearance, they were heartily received by the audience. His Worship, +Mayor Beaudry (who wore his chain of office) presided, and was supported +on the right by Sir William Thomson (representing the retiring +president, Prof. Cayley), and the Right Hon. Lord Rayleigh +(president-elect), and on his left by the Premier of the Dominion, the +Right Honourable Sir John A. Macdonald. Amongst others present--were Sir +Lyon Playfair, Capt. Douglas Galton, Prof. Henry E. Boscoe, Sir James +Douglass, Prof. Chandler Roberts, Mr. W. Terlawney Saunders, Prof. +Glaisher, Hon. C. W, Freemantle, Capt. Bedford Pim, Rev. Prof. Bonney, +Sir Richard Temple, Dr. Alexander, Principal Dawson, C.M.G., Prof. +Cheriman, Mr. M. H. Gault, M.P., Hon. J. S. C. Wurtele, Dr. Persiford +Frazer, U. S. Consul-General Stearns, Andrew Robertson, and the +following members of the city corporation: Aldermen Grenier, Fairbairn, +Laurent, Stevenson, Rainville, Donovan, Beauchamp, Archibald, Robert, +Prefontaine, Holland, Tansey, Beausoleil, Mount, Rolland, Hood, J. C. +Wilson, Thos. Wilson, Mooney, Jeannotte, Farrell and Genereux; Mr. +Charles Glackmeyer, city clerk; Mr. Perceval W. St. George, city +surveyor; Mr. J. F. D. Black, city treasurer; and Mr. H. Paradis, chief +of police. Mr. W. R Spence, organist of the Church of St. John the +Evangelist, presided at the organ. + +His Worship the Mayor opened the proceedings by reading the following:-- + + +ADDRESS. + +_To the President and Members of the British Association for the +Advancement of Science_: + +GENTLEMEN,--It is with no common pleasure that we, the mayor and +aldermen of Montreal welcome to this city and to Canada, so +distinguished a body as the British Association for the Advancement of +Science. Already indeed, not only here, but through the length and +breadth of the land, that welcome has been pronounced with a heartiness +to which we are proud to add the confirmation of formal expression. + +During the last two years, and especially since the acceptance of our +invitation made it a certainty, your coming amongst us has been looked +forward to as an event of deep and manifold importance to the Dominion. + +Aware of the devotion with which the Association had for more than half +a century, applied itself to the object indicated in its name, and +knowing that its present membership comprised the most eminent of those +noble students and investigators who have made the search after truth +the aim of their lives, we could not fail to perceive that Canada would +gain by the presence of observers and thinkers so exact and so +unprejudiced. Nor were we without the hope that in the vast and varied +expanse of territory which constitutes the Dominion, our learned +visitors would meet with features of interest that should be some +compensation for so long and wearisome a journey here in that great +stretch of diversified region between the Atlantic and the Pacific, the +student of almost every branch of science must find something worth +learning whilst for certain sections of the Association there are few +portions of the world in which the explorer is more likely to be +gratified and rewarded. + +Throughout this broad domain of ours, rock and herb, forest and prairie, +lake and river, air and soil, with whatever life or whatever relic of +life in past ages, they may severally contain,--afford to the diligent +seeker of knowledge various and ample scope for research. Nor to the +student of man at a social and political being, is there less of +opportunity for acquiring fresh facts and themes for reflection in a +young commonwealth like this. + +We flatter ourselves that here you will find a people not unworthy of +the great races from which it has sprung, and that on your return to the +mother land, you will be able to speak with satisfaction, from your own +experience, of our federal system, our resources, our agriculture our +manufactures, our commerce, our institutions of learning, our progress +and our destinies. + +You have come and we place our land, ourselves and all we are and have +at your disposal. We bid you a hearty welcome, and in so honouring +ourselves we only ask you to consider yourselves at home, remembering +that you are still on British soil. + +In conclusion Mr. President and Gentlemen, we sincerely hope that your +stay in this portion of Her Majesty's Empire may be as happy and as +fruitful to the Association as it is grateful for so many reasons to the +people of Montreal and of the Dominion. + +J L BEAUDRY, + +Mayor + +CHAS GLACKMEYER, + +City Clerk + + +Sir WM THOMSON acknowledged in cordial terms the hearty welcome +expressed in this address. The Association, he continued, when it +commenced the experiment of being a peripatetic Association for the +advancement of science, made an experiment which many considered of a +doubtful character. It was urged that although zeal for a new thing +might carry the Association on for a few years successfully, the success +would cease with the novelty. This prophecy had not been fulfilled. On +the contrary, the experiment had been crowned with brilliant success. He +did not think the founders of the Association, fifty-two years ago, when +they drew up the wise plan and regulations of the society which have +since continued in force almost without change, imagined, for a moment, +the possibility of a meeting being held on this side of the Atlantic. +(Applause) Their meeting here was strictly within the letter of the law +and wholly in accordance with the spirit by which the British +Association was directed, and that was to carry through the British +Empire any advancement in science that could be promoted by the +existence of the Association. At the outset, when the body was formed, +some fifty years ago, the mathematical section, of which he was now +president, held that it was impossible for a steamboat to cross the +Atlantic. As president of that section, he ought to be ashamed that it +had adopted such a conclusion. The business of the Association was to +advance science and never to stand still. Many misgivings had been felt +as to the success of the experiment of visiting this side of the water, +but none were felt as to the kindness with which they would be received. +Nobody doubted that the warmest welcome would be given by their +countrymen on this side, and none knew better how to give a warm +welcome. With respect to his own feelings, he felt most deeply the +privilege and honour of filling the position be held, but it was +accompanied with one regret and that was the absence of Professor +Cayley, who would have been in his place had not circumstances compelled +him to remain on the other side. He concluded by again expressing his +warm thanks and those of the Association for the magnificent welcome +given them. + +Lord RAYLEIGH, as president-elect, joined in the expression of thanks +for the hearty welcome. We all, he said, felt great interest in +visiting, many of us for the first time, this extensive and diversified +land, which has become the borne of so many of our fellow countrymen. +Before the day is out I am afraid the tones of my voice will have become +only too familiar to you, and I will therefore say nothing more than +that we most cordially reciprocate the sentiments expressed in the +address presented to us. + +Sir JOHN A. MICDONALD was then requested to address the meeting. As he +came forward, looking as vigorous and cheery as if time had consented to +roll backwards in his favour, the enthusiasm and delight of the audience +found vent in a perfect ovation of applause. On all sides among our +visitors, as well as our own citizens, were heard expressions of genial +interest on the one hand and of delight on the other. Sir John gained +the heart of the audience at once, and, after the applause had subsided, +said:--I really do not know in what capacity I am called upon to address +this audience, whether it is as a scientist or as a Canadian or as a +member of the government. I cannot well say--I will say, however--I come +here as a scientist. I am not yet settled in my own mind to which +section I will attach myself. I think I will wait awhile, use my Scotch +discretion, hear all that has to be said on all those questions before +finally deciding. (Laughter.) We all cordially join in the sentiments +expressed in the address from the corporation. It was a great pleasure +to us all in Canada to know there was a possibility of the British +Association extending their visits to Canada. I first thought, when the +proposition was made, it was asking too much, but the cordial response +made and the large attendance, showed these fears were not well founded. +I am glad the weather is fine, the country is prosperous, the fields are +groaning with products, and altogether we put on our best clothes to do +honour to those gentlemen who have honoured Canada (applause and +laughter), and I really hope they will not be disappointed. I can assure +them, if they wanted the assurance, the people of Canada are proud and +grateful for their visit. If there are any shortcomings among us it is +because we are a young country; but we will do our best any way and you +must take the will for the deed. (Applause.) I am sure I express the +sentiments of all in giving the Association a most hearty greeting to +the Dominion of Canada. (Loud applause.) The national anthem was then +sung by the entire audience, and on three cheers being given for the +Queen, the meeting dispersed. + + + + +THE GENERAL MEETING. + + +The first general meeting of the Association was held in the Queen's +Hall at eight o'clock last evening, the hall being crowded to its utmost +capacity, many having to stand, while others were unable to obtain +admission. Sir William Thomson occupied the chair, and beside him on the +platform were His Excellency the Governor General and Lady Lansdowne and +suite, the Right Hon. Sir John Macdonald, and the president-elect, the +Right Hon. Lord Rayleigh. + +His EXCELLENCY THE GOVERNOR-GENERAL was first introduced, and delivered +the following address of welcome:-- + +Lord Rayleigh, ladies and gentlemen,--I am given to understand that it +would be in accordance with the rules under which the business of the +British Association is carried on, that the proceedings of to-day should +commence with the vacation of the president's chair and by the +installation of the president-elect in the place which he will so +honourably fill. The occasion, however, which has brought us together is +so remarkable, and will be so memorable, not only in the annals of the +Association, but in the history of the Dominion, that I believe you will +pardon the slight irregularity of which, as a member of the Association, +I am guilty, in rising to address a few words to this distinguished +audience. The occasion, Lord Rayleigh, is the first upon which the +British Association has held a meeting beyond the narrow limits of the +United Kingdom. Such a departure from the usage which you have hitherto +observed, though an inauguration, is certainly not inconsistent with the +objects of the Association or with the designs of its founders; its +earliest records contain the statement that it was instituted for the +promotion of intercourse between those who cultivated science in +different parts, not merely of the British Islands, but of the British +Empire. I question whether any means of promoting this intercourse could +have been discovered more effectual than the holding of your annual +meeting in one of the great cities of this colony, and my object in now +addressing you is to express at the very outset the satisfaction with +which the people, not only of Montreal, but of the whole Dominion, hail +your arrival here and to welcome you in their name to these shores. +(Loud applause.) Perhaps you will allow me to state my own belief that +if you were to select for your place of meeting a spot within the +colonial empire of England, you could not have selected a colony which +better deserved the distinction, either in respect of the warmth of its +affection for the mother country, or in respect of the desire of its +inhabitants for the diffusion of knowledge and of culture. (Applause) In +a young country such pursuits must be carried on in the face of some +difficulty and of the competition of that material activity which must +to a great extent engross the time and absorb the attention of a rapidly +developing community such as this. We may, however, claim for Canada +that she has done her best, that she has above all spared no pains to +provide for the interest of science in the future, and that amongst +those who have done scientific work within the Dominion are men known +and respected far beyond the bounds of their own nation. In this +connection I cannot deny myself the pleasure of referring to the honours +which have been conferred upon Sir William Dawson within the last few +days. (Loud and long continued applause.) He is, unless I am +misinformed, more responsible than any one person for the visit of the +Association, and I feel sure that I shall command the acquiescence of +all those who have worked in the cause of Canadian culture when I say +that we regard the knighthood which Her Majesty has bestowed upon him as +an appropriate recognition of his distinguished services, and as an +opportune compliment to Canadian science. (Applause.) But the +significance of this meeting is far greater than it would be if its +results were to be measured merely by the addition which it will make to +the scientific wealth of the empire. When we find a society which for +fifty years has never met outside the British Islands transferring its +operations to the Dominion--when we see several hundred of our best +known Englishmen, who have acquired a public reputation, not only in the +scientific, but in the political and the literary world, arriving here +mingling with our citizens, and dispersing in all directions over this +continent; when we see in Montreal the bearers of such names as +Rayleigh, Playfair, Frankland, Burdon, Sanderson, Thomson, Roscoe, +Blanford, Moseley, Lefroy, Temple, Bramwell, Tylor, Galton, Harcourt and +Bonney, we feel that one more step has been taken towards the +establishment of that close intimacy between the mother country and her +offspring, which both here and at home all good citizens of the empire +are determined to promote. (Loud applause.) The desire for such closer +intimacy is one of the most remarkable and one of the best features in +the political life of the present day. Our periodical literature, our +proceedings in parliament, the public discussions which have recently +taken place and in which some of our most prominent Canadians have taken +a part, all indicate a remarkable awakening to the importance of the +noblest colonial empire which the world has ever seen, and a desire to +draw closer the ties of sympathy and allegiance which bind us +reciprocally. (Applause.) And, ladies and gentlemen, whatever difficulty +there may be in the way of a revision of the political relations of the +mother country and her colonies, it is satisfactory to reflect that +there are none in the way of such an alliance as that which you are +establishing to-day between the culture of the old world and that of the +new. (Applause.) In the domain of science there can be no conflict of +local and imperial interests--no constitution to revise--no embarrassing +considerations of foreign and domestic policy. We are all partners and +co-heirs of a great empire, and we may work side by side without +misgiving, and with a certainty that every addition to the common fund +of knowledge and mutual enlightenment is an unmixed advantage to the +whole empire. (Loud applause.) I believe, Lord Rayleigh, that your visit +will be fraught with far reaching advantages both to hosts and guests. +We shall gain in acquaintance with our visitors, and in the publicity +which their visit will give to the resources and attractions of this +country. We believe that it will be more justly appreciated in +proportion as it becomes more widely known and more thoroughly +understood. (Applause.) Sympathy, as a distinguished Canadian has lately +written, begets knowledge, and knowledge again adds to sympathy. You, +ladies and gentlemen, who have lately left the mother country, will gain +in the opportunity which will be afforded you of studying the life of a +people younger than your own but engaged in the solution of many +problems similar to those which engage our attention at home, and +observing the conduct of your own race amidst the surroundings of +another hemisphere. On every side you will find objects of interest. Our +political system, the working of federation, the arrangements of the +different provinces for the education of our youth, our railways pushed +across this continent with an enterprise which has never been surpassed +by the oldest and largest communities--(loud applause)--our forests, +our geology, our mineral resources, our agriculture in all its different +phases ranging from the quiet homesteads and skilful cultivation of the +older provinces to the newly reclaimed prairies of the North-west, which +we expect to yield us this season a surplus of from six to nine millions +of bushels, the history and characteristics of our native races, and the +manner in which we have dealt with them--all these will afford you +opportunities of study which few other portions of the globe could +present in such variety. (Applause.) Of the facilities which will be +afforded to you and of the pains which have been taken to render your +explorations easy and agreeable, I need not speak. Some of you are aware +that a distinguished member of an assembly to which you and I, Lord +Rayleigh, have both the honour to belong, has lately been cautioning the +English public against the dangers of legislation by picnic. (Loud +applause.) I have heard that in some quarters misgivings have been +expressed. We too should be exposed to similar danger, and lest the +attractions which the British Association is offered here should +conflict with its more strictly scientific objects. These are probably +_rumores senum severiorum_, and I will only say of them, if there +is any ground for such apprehensions, you must remember that hospitality +is an instinct with our people, and that it is their desire that you +should see and learn a great deal, and that you should see and learn it +in the pleasantest manner possible. (Applause.) I have only one word +more to say. I wish to express the pleasure with which I see in this +room representatives, not only of English and Continental and Canadian +science, but also many distinguished representatives of that great +people which, at a time when the relations of the mother country and her +colonies were less wisely regulated than at present, ceased to be +subjects of the British Crown, but did not cease to become our kinsmen. +Many of you will pass from these meetings to the great re-union to be +held a few days hence at Philadelphia, where you will be again reminded +that there are ties which bind together not only the constituent parts +of the British empire, but the whole of the British race--ties of mutual +sympathy and good-will which such intercourse will strengthen and which, +I believe, each succeeding decade will draw more closely and firmly +together. (Applause.) I have now only to apologize for having intervened +in your proceedings. I feel that what I have said would have come better +from the lips of a Canadian. Others will, however, have ample +opportunities for supplementing both by word and deed the shortcomings +of which I may have been guilty. It was my duty--and I have much +pleasure in discharging it--as the representative of the Crown in this +part of the empire to bid you in the name of our people a hearty welcome +to the Dominion. (Loud and long continued applause.) + +Sir WM. THOMSON, in responding, said:--You will allow me, in the first +place, to offer my warmest thanks to His Excellency the Governor-General +for coming among us this evening, and for the very kind and warm welcome +which he has offered to the British Association, on the part of the +Dominion. Your Excellency, it devolves upon me as representing Professor +Cayley, the president of the British Association, to do what I wish he +were here to do himself, and which it would have been a well-earned +pleasure for him to do--to introduce to you Lord Rayleigh as his +successor in the office of President of the British Association. +Professor Cayley has devoted his life to the advancement of pure +mathematics. It is indeed peculiarly appropriate that he should be +followed in the honourable post of president by one who has done so much +to apply mathematical power in the various branches of physical science +as Lord Rayleigh has done. In the field of the discovery and +demonstration of natural phenomena Lord Rayleigh has, above all others +enriched physical science by the application of mathematical analysis; +and when I speak of mathematics you must not suppose mathematics to be +harsh and crabbed. (Laughter.) The Association learned last year at +Southport what a glorious realm of beauty there was in pure mathematics. +I will not, however, be hard on those who insist that it is harsh and +crabbed. In reading some of the pages of the greatest investigators of +mathematics one is apt to become wearied, and I must confess that some +of the pages of Lord Rayleigh's work have taxed me most severely, but +the strain was well repaid. When we pass from the instrument which is +harsh and crabbed to those who do not give themselves the trouble to +learn it thoroughly, to the application of the instrument, see what a +splendid world of light, beauty and music is opened to us through such +investigations as those of Lord Rayleigh. His book on sound is the +greatest piece of mathematical investigation we know of applied to a +branch of physical science. The branches of music are mere developments +of mathematical formulas, and of every note and wave in music the +equation lies in the pages of Lord Rayleigh's book. (Laughter and +applause.) There are some who have no ear for music, but all who are +blessed with eyes can admire the beauties of nature, and among those one +which is seen in Canada frequently, in England often, in Scotland +rarely, is the blue sky. (Laughter) Lord Rayleigh's brilliant piece of +mathematical work on the dynamics of blue sky is a monument to the +application of mathematics to a subject of supreme difficulty, and on +the subject of refraction of light he has pointed out the way towards +finding all that has to be known, though he has ended his work by +admitting that the explanation of the fundamentals of the reflection and +refraction of light is still wanting and is a subject for the efforts of +the British Association for the Advancement of Science. But there is +still another subject, electricity and the electric light, and here +again Lord Rayleigh's work is fundamental, and one may hope from the +suggestions it contains that electricity may yet be put upon the level +of ordinary mechanics, and that the electrician may be able to weigh out +electric quantities as easily and readily as a merchant could a quantity +of tea or sugar. (Applause.) It remains for me only to fulfil the +commission which Professor Cayley has entrusted to me of expressing his +great regret that his engagements in England prevented his being with +us, and in his name to vacate the chair of president of the Association +and to ask Lord Rayleigh to take his place as President for 1884. +(Applause.) + +[_Lord Rayleigh then delivered the Presidential Address, a copy of +which is appended to this work._] + +Lord Rayleigh was loudly applauded at the conclusion of his address. + +HON. DR. CHAVEAU in an eloquent speech in French proposed a vote of +thanks to Lord Rayleigh for the interesting sketch he had given of +modern science. In this scientific review Lord Rayleigh had also +displayed great literary ability. The reunion to-day of the British +Association was significant in the sense that it extended the operations +of the society to all parts of the British Empire, so that while on the +other side the question of a federation of the British Empire was being +raised, the British Association had taken the lead in its sphere by +casting out the roots of a scientific federation. In this connection he +spoke of the work the Royal Society was doing in Canada. He was glad to +see that Lord Rayleigh did not hold extreme views as to the elimination +of classical studies from our schools, for he believed that in those +stores of antiquity our modern mind found a great deal of its strength, +and were this study abolished our mental grasp and vigour would be +greatly lessened. What Canada required was the greater development of +our universities. In this way would science be most benefited, for we +would have a greater number of men able to devote themselves entirely to +the study of scientific subjects. He expressed the pleasure he felt at +the honour of knighthood conferred on Principal Dawson, an honour in +which the whole Canadian people felt pride, and concluded amidst great +applause. + +Mr. HUGH MCLENNAN in seconding the resolution said the very interesting +address which Lord Rayleigh had given them was not only a source of +pleasure to the audience, but gave them an adequate idea of the wide +field of knowledge and research opened by those who devoted themselves +to different scientific pursuits. The presence of so many men devoted to +scientific pursuits in our midst could not fail to give an impetus to +the study of science in this country. We had not many scientific men, +owing principally to the fact that the people who settled here had given +their attention to material pursuits, but a new era was now opening. The +worthy chief of the government must be gratified at the success of his +wise policy in encouraging this movement, which could not fail to be of +great profit to Canadians, and he felt sure that no vote would be more +heartily given than the vote of thanks to Lord Rayleigh, which he had +much pleasure in seconding. + +Sir Wm Thomson put the motion, which was adopted unanimously amidst loud +applause. + +Lord Rayleigh returned thanks for the honour done him, and the meeting +adjourned until Friday next, when Professor Ball will deliver a lecture. + + * * * * * + +It was not very surprising that after all this excitement I had a very +bad night and awoke quite ill Thursday morning, remained all day in bed +nursing and starving, and could not, therefore, go to two afternoon +parties for which we had invitations, nor to the grand evening reception +at the college. This morning I am feeling quite well, and it is pouring +with rain. + + +_Friday Evening_.--After luncheon Dr. P. Smith called and went +with me to Section A, but we were too late to hear John's paper--He told +me that he and E--- start for Quebec to-night after a lecture on "Dust," +and stay at the Lansdownes for the festivities there (we three have +settled not to go), and return Sunday evening. We went then to Section B +to hear something of Chemistry, and to the Vicars Boyle's at the Windsor +Hotel, and found her at home. I have had a letter asking us all to go to +the Macpherson's at Toronto. Hedley and I called on the McClennan's +(Dick's hosts) and found her to be a nice clever woman, with seven sons +and two daughters. Mrs. Stephen had called in my absence and waited some +time to see me, and left a message for us to drink tea there Sunday, but +I shall probably be occupied elsewhere. Dick went to see the Victoria +Bridge to-day and dines here. Mr. Angus has been telling us delightful +accounts of some of the new routes through the Rocky Mountains down to +British Columbia, which the Canadian Pacific Railway will take, and +which will be finished by the spring of next year. Their surveyor, Mr. +Van Horn, has just returned from an exploration, and gave very curious +details in answer to Professor G. Ramsay's questions (brother of Sir +James Ramsay). Mr. Van Horn says the mountains sheer up eight to eleven +thousand feet; glaciers are eighteen to twenty miles long; trees two +hundred and fifty feet high and thirty in circumference. They have only +to cut one down and it makes a capital bridge at once. He told us a +curious story of a Mr. Rogers, who started with a young engineer to find +a pass for the railroad over the Rocky mountains which would, on its +discovery, make him famous. After their six days' provisions were all +exhausted, Mr. Carroll, the young engineer, said: "It is all very well +for you, but what shall _I_ gain by risking my life and going on?" +"Well," said Mr. Rogers, "let us go to that high plateau and think." +While there, he decided to go on, upon which Mr. Carroll again +expostulated. Mr. Rogers then exclaimed: "You see all these magnificent +peaks, which probably no human eye has seen before--now the grandest of +these shall be named after you if I succeed." Just then a caribou went +past. They gave chase and he took them nine miles into a valley where +they did not find _him_ but _did_ find a _cache_ of +food--and then the _pass_! And the highest mountain is called Mount +Carroll at this day. Mr. Angus does not encourage me much to go to the +Rocky Mountains, on the ground of fatigue and hardships. + + +_Wednesday, September 2nd_--I must bring up my journal to this +date. On Saturday there were no sections. John and E--- Lansdownes and +many others went to Quebec. Owing to showers of rain the festivities +there were rather a failure. Miss Angus drove H--- and me to Mount +Royal, where we had a splendid view; Dick walked up. We then went to the +market, and saw there all sorts of new vegetables, fruits, and fish. The +melons here are delicious, and we have had buckwheat cakes, and rice +cakes, and sweet potatoes, and blueberries. The living here is very +good, and nothing can be more comfortable than we are; but the flies are +sometimes an annoyance, and the darkness of the rooms--which are kept +dark to prevent their getting in. Saturday afternoon Dick, H--- and I +went to see La Chine by rail to the steamer, and then down the rapids, +which were less dangerous looking than we expected. A violent +thunder-storm came on, and in the middle of it we got into the whirlpool +of the rapids, and then a fiery red sun broke out among a mass of dense +black clouds; a great fire appeared also near the banks of the river, +and all this combined, produced very striking effects. We met on the +steamer Mr. George Darwin and his Bride--a charming looking American +girl--he looks already much better and happier. + + +_Sunday_.--Miss A---, H---, and I went to the cathedral, a full +simple service and good sermon from Mr. Champion. In the afternoon I +went with Dick to a musical service at St. James' Church--such a sermon! +from a man who nearly wriggled himself out of the pulpit; he came from +Norwood, I heard. _Monday_.--We went in the afternoon to a party at +Mrs. Redpath's; her son, "now gone to his home above," she said, had +known one of mine at Cambridge. It is a pretty place, on a hill near +this, and a good many people there; it got very damp after sunset. We +none of us went to an evening party going on at Mrs. Gault's, being too +tired. Mr. C--- called early and went with me to sections; John joined +me, and we saw and heard Captains Ray and Greely of Arctic fame. They +say he (Greely) and his living companions saved themselves from +starvation by eating their dead ones--a dreadful alternative, but I +don't think they were to blame; it didn't agree with him, for he looks +horribly ill, poor man! In the afternoon we all went to see the Indian +game of La Crosse played between twelve Montrealists and twelve Indians. +It is pretty and exciting, something between lawn tennis and football--I +could have watched it for hours! we were all comfortably seated in +places of honour on a covered stand, which partly accounts for my +enjoyment. After this we went to tea with Mr. and Mrs. G. Stephens, and +there with John and E--- we finally settled with Mr. Stephens to go by +Canadian Pacific Railway to the north-west; Mr. Stephens offered us a +private car, provisioned, &c.; we take _his_ to Toronto, and stay +there with Sir David and Lady Macpherson. This invitation is the result +of an introduction I had from a friend in England. Several invites have +come from Philadelphia and New York. I sent a telegram to you yesterday, +but according to the rules of the Company (who allow us to send free, +subject to these conditions), it must first go to 90, O--- G---; you +will write next to New York, and I will give directions there respecting +all letters. Please tell Edward at T. P. and Mary. + + +_Wednesday_.--I went to Sections for last time; in afternoon to +the closing meeting of British Association, when they all butter one +another; the buttering of John was, of course, very nice and justifiable +Sir William Dawson said among other things that John was to be loved and +admired as a man as well as a scientist. He certainly looks +gentlemanlike and sweet, and though nervous, he always expresses himself +well; he and others received the honour of D.C.L. from the McGill +University here. I forgot to say that on Tuesday evening there was a +grand reception by the civic authorities at the skating rink, a very +large hall, where we paraded up and down, and the young ones danced +(Hedley with Miss Angus), and then I sat in a state gallery with E--- +and other grandees. I cannot say I was struck with the beauty of the +company. I made acquaintance with Captain Greely--he does not look any +better, poor man, but has a nice expression. Wednesday evening we went +to a pretty party at Mr. Donald Smith's, the richest man in Canada, and +so kind and simple; he had a ball-room built at a day or two's notice, +and tent for supper, and Chinese lanterns lighted up the garden, &c. It +was a lovely night with full moon, and I was very glad to walk outside, +for the heat was very great. Mr. D. Smith asked me to "Silver Heights," +his place at Winnipeg. H--- and Dick are both rather unwell to-day, and +I hear poor Mr. Walter Brown is dying. I am well enough now. It is +extremely hot, but there is always air. John has shirked the Toronto +function, and also the American Association at Philadelphia--some of the +B. A. are starting there soon. We go alone to Toronto, and also to +Winnipeg and the Rocky Mountains. Miss Becker and Mrs. Hallett called to +see me, and I signed a memorial of thanks to Sir John Macdonald (the +Premier of Canada), for proposing Women's Suffrage here. + + + + +THE AMERICAN ASSOCIATION + + +The fact that the British Association meets this year in Canada gives +unusual interest to the meeting of the American Association for the +Advancement of Science at Philadelphia, from September 4 to 11. After +the Montreal meeting those who feel inclined can make their way +leisurely to Philadelphia where it is evident from the information +before us, they will meet with a warm reception. On the Friday evening, +September 5, after the address of the retiring president (Professor C. +A. Young, of New Jersey) a general reception will be tendered by the +citizens and ladies of Philadelphia to the members of the British and +American Associations, and the ladies accompanying them. The British +Association has been cordially invited, both by the American Association +to take part in the proceedings, and by the local committee representing +the citizens of Philadelphia, to accept the warm welcome which will be +tendered them during the joint session. The local committee has, indeed, +been divided into a number of subcommittees for the sole purpose of +rendering the stay of their visitors agreeable It will, therefore, only +be courteous on the part of Britons who intend to be present at the +American meeting to comply with the committee's request, and send their +names, together with the number of ladies and gentlemen in their +parties, as early as possible, to Dr. Persifor Frazer, 201, South Fifth +street, Philadelphia. During the week occupied by the session there will +be a number of receptions, entertainments, and excursions, and a day +will be set apart for the examination of the International Electrical +Exhibition, to be held at Philadelphia under the auspices of the +Franklin Institute, and commencing September 2. By an arrangement +between the Canadian and United States Trunk lines, members of the +British Association will be conveyed between Montreal and Philadelphia +at specially low fares, while the hotel charges at the latter city +during the meeting are not expected to exceed three dollars a day. We +believe the number who have already promised to be at the Montreal +meeting is about seven-hundred and fifty, so that with those who will go +without promising, added to the many Canadian and United States +scientists who are sure to be present, the meeting is likely to be in +numbers more than an average one. + + + + +Letter No. 4. + + +_September 17th, Toronto, The "Chestnuts."_ + +My beloved Mother.--I forgot to mention your birthday when I last wrote, +but you know how glad I am that you were born! And how much I prize +every year that is added to your life; and now as this will find you at +dear Mary's, please give her my fond love and best wishes for this day, +and I shall drink her health to-day, and call upon my sons to do the +same. I posted my last letter at Montreal on Thursday; Dick was quite +ill that day, and after seeing him twice and shopping, I bid good-bye to +Mr. Angus, who went to New York, and then Miss Angus drove me to see +poor Mrs. Walter Brown, whose husband was dying at the Hospital. I sent +my card in and she asked to see me. I did not know her much, but it was +very touching, and I felt my heart quite drawn to the poor young woman, +who came out with her husband on a pleasure trip, and now has to leave +him buried in a far land. He got typhoid fever, and inflammation of the +lungs, and was lying unconscious on a hospital bed, while she sobbed on +my shoulder, and said "Oh what shall I do? what shall I do?" I asked her +if she had any difficulty about money matters, but she said Captain +Douglas Galton had called and kindly arranged everything for her with +one of our kind hosts at Montreal. Her father was coming out to her as +fast as he could, but could not be at New York till the 12th, and her +poor husband died that night, and was buried yesterday. After this, +which upset me much, I went to the Stephens' and met John and E--- and +told them, and John went off also to see Mrs. Brown, for Mr. Brown had +been a friend of his. The Stephens' house is very gorgeous, and full of +beautiful satin-wood walls, and the staircase finely carved mahogany. +Mr. Angus' house, too, has much beautiful carved wood about it, but the +houses are kept so dark on account of the heat and flies, that one can +hardly see well enough to appreciate these beauties. Excepting in this +respect, and the amount of carved wood, the style is very like the +houses of the middle class of well-to-do men in Scotland. + + _Friday_.--I got up at six, and walked to see Dick, and found him +better, and he arranged, if well enough, to follow us to Toronto; then +we breakfasted and all the family were up to see us off, and we joined +John and E--- at the station and arranged ourselves in the Directors' +car (Canadian Pacific Railway), a drawing-room with beds (sofas), +dining-room and table in centre, a little kitchen, private bedroom, and +two lavatories. We had a very hot and dusty journey but were otherwise +comfortable, and arrived at Ottawa about twelve. John and E--- went off +to lunch with Lady Melgund at Rido, but as she did not know we were +coming I was not invited, and so Hedley and I lunched in our car, and +then drove to lionize the Claudiere Falls, where the Ottawa River falls +about two hundred feet. The quantity of wood piled about is amazing +(lumber they call it) and it chokes up and destroys the effect of the +river, but it is not in itself ugly, for they arrange it so beautifully +and the colouring is bright. Then we drove to the Government buildings, +and there I was agreeably surprised by the beautiful view, not so grand +as Quebec certainly, but very fine--the Ottawa, with headlands, well +wooded, frequently breaking the line of the river, and the far reach of +country with blue mountains in the background, and then the air so +deliciously sweet and pure, and reviving. We returned there again in the +afternoon, and sat reading till half-past seven, when we returned to our +small house and John and E---, and the conductor gave us a capital +dinner--champagne and all sorts of good things, and we all enjoyed it. +Then we chatted and played whist, and then to bed. Hedley and I in the +drawing-room, and John and E--- in small room, the maids in dining-room. +I can't say I slept well for they moved our car once, causing our +conductor to storm at them for their impertinence, and the arrival and +departure of various trains and fog signals, &c., were not calculated to +favour one's slumbers! Hedley declares that a fog signal in the morning +did not awake me, but he slept through all. About twelve, Dick arrived +from Montreal, much better, and our car was fastened to the train and on +we went to Toronto. We all tried to read, but oh! the shaking, and dust, +and heat were overpowering; still it was interesting to see what +appeared a primitive country with forests half burned, with stations at +"cities" consisting of apparently two or three wooden houses in the +wood--I say apparently, for Sir D. Macpherson told me there were +splendid farms near the railway. Sometimes we saw a pretty lake with +park-like scenery around, and we thought "here we could make a pretty +country place." At ten o'clock Saturday night we arrived at Toronto, and +Sir David Macpherson and his carriage were waiting for us, and it was so +delightful to drive in an open carriage with a lovely moon shining and +the sweet, cool air refreshing us, that we were very sorry the drive was +so short. Lady M--- and her daughter, Miss M---, only in their house, +which seems like an English one in the style of arrangements--servants +and conservatories, and greenhouses, &c., and my bedroom is furnished +like a Scotch one, full of pretty quilts and muslin covers, and odds and +ends. I was delighted to find myself between two very fine sheets, and +slept like a top. Evelyn had a headache and did not get up or go to +church. We drove to the nearest and had a nice service and fair sermon +from a Mr. de Barr, son of a Canadian Judge; Dick, Miss, M---, and I +stayed to Holy Communion, and I was struck with the remarkable number of +young people who remained. After luncheon I had a long talk with Sir +David. He says we are quite wrong about free trade: as the world is, it +should be fair trade, or England will continue to lose, as she is now +losing, every year. The Canadians are obliged to have Protection on +account of the United States, who would send their manufactured goods by +English vessels and so ruin Canadian workshops. No country can grow and +prosper which only produces the raw article of food, &c. Land alone +cannot make a people rich or great; he thinks the Conservative party are +not half, active or energetic enough, and we must have workmen orators +stumping all over the country to reach their own class, or we shall lose +all influence with those who will really be the ruling power. Here, he +says, the Conservatives are two to one in the House of Commons; the +Radicals here abuse their country, and try to hinder and injure all the +enterprise which would enlarge its borders and bring emigrants to take +possession, and do all they can to lower it in the estimation of +outsiders, in hopes that if things come to smash they might have a +chance of a reign of power. Doesn't this remind one of some people in +our own country? Radicals are called "grits" here, and they say you can +recognize a "grit" when you see him, for though they are not at all from +one class or one industry, they have heads that might betoken a sojourn +in a penitentiary! + + +_Monday, September 8th_.--We did not go anywhere last evening but +strolled about the garden. Mr. Brand, son of the late Speaker, Mr. +Morris, member of the Senate, and another man, dined. Mr. Morris was +Governor of Manitoba. He said in the year 1870 Winnipeg was a little +wild village. Now, when I asked him about buying a few things at Toronto +for the Rocky Mountains expedition, he exclaimed "Oh! wait until you get +to Winnipeg, you can get everything there!" He described a ball he had +given to some royalties (I forget which) and how he had to scour the +country for three hundred miles round to get provisions enough for the +supper, in the year 1874. In my youth I remember reading of Winnipeg, +Fort William and Lake Superior as the outposts of the Hudson Bay +Company, and how travellers, trappers, &c., endured all manner of +hardships, and crossed hikes with Indians carrying the canoes from lake +to lake, and guiding them through endless swamps and rocky bills, until +half-frozen and starved they arrived quite exhausted at these distant +forts. Now we travel by rail in a private car, and Mr. Donald Smith has +a country house near Winnipeg, to which he invited us, and all along +there are "rising cities" which did not exist in any shape five years +ago. When this Canadian Pacific Railway is finished to British Columbia, +and the Atlantic and Pacific are united by it in one, our "Dominion" +then ought to have a splendid future. I don't think I told you about Mr. +Tan Horn's conversation with me at Montreal he said "we are a great deal +too quiet in Canada; we don't puff ourselves enough or make enough of +our advantages and our doings. Why, we live next door to fifty millions +of liars and we must brag or we shall be talked out." + + +_Monday, later_.--I have just returned from a drive with Miss M--- +and Hedley to Toronto, and I am surprised at its size and importance, +and busy look and general air of English prosperity and neatness. Though +Montreal is very pretty, the town is too French and idle-looking to be +impressive--there are numbers of well-kept villas and gardens here. We +are now going out to see a regatta on Lake Ontario and to the island. +Lady M--- said last night, when making arrangements, "I think this will +suit the young people," and I exclaimed "Don't put me among the old +ones, please," so I am going. Sir D--- has gone to Ottawa on Ministerial +business. + + + + +Letter No. 5. + + +_September 12th, Niagara Falls._ + +On Tuesday we drove with John, and Dr. Wilson showed us over the +University and some pretty sketches he had taken. We got berths on board +the steamer from Owen Sound on Saturday. It is difficult to find out who +manages these things, and we had telegrams going to two or three places +before we could make certain of our berths. At four o'clock all sorts of +people called, being Lady Macpherson's "at home" day, and many on me and +E---. I don't admire Canadian women _especially_! We had fourteen +at dinner and a delightful old Irishman, Chief Justice Haggerty, took me +in. The Lieutenant-Governor, Mr. Robinson, though only the Provincial +Governor, is treated as the representative of the Queen, and goes before +every one. Professor Godwin Smith and his wife were also of the party. +He says (but I am sure he is prejudiced and that it is not true) that +the Canadian Government is just as corrupt and that there is as much +bribery as in the States. Mr. G. Smith differs in opinion with every +one, for the Liberal side would not publish his letters in the papers, +and so he sent them to the Conservatives, and he says they are far more +impartial and just. + + +_Wednesday, 10th_.--We started here at one o'clock, first by +steamer on Lake Ontario. It was refreshing after being nearly melted at +Toronto, for there was a good breeze. The size of these inland seas +strike one much. We arrived at Niagara about four, and found Mr. Plumb, +John's quondam friend of eighteen years ago, waiting for us in +waggonette, and we drove at once to his pretty house, surrounded by +peach orchards and vines, an untidy but pretty garden. He asked after +Leonard and Mary. Then we had tea, presided over by his pretty daughter +of sixteen, and then the train by his orders stopped for us at his +garden door, and, as he informed me, the last time it did so, was for +the Prince of Wales! We arrived here, Clifton House, the Hotel, by a +picturesque railway journey, and are opposite the American Falls, and +the Horse Shoe Falls are on our right, nearly facing us. Like many other +people, I am rather ashamed to confess I am not as much impressed and +overwhelmed as I ought to be! Dick took a note from Mr. Plumb to his +nephew, Mr. Macklem, and he arranged to call for us at three. In the +morning we drove to the Rapids and Whirlpool, and went up and down all +sorts of queer places in _queerer_ elevators. The river looked +beautiful, a blue-green colour, and the whirlpool is mysteriously +curious, where poor Captain Webb disappeared! In the afternoon the +Macklems took us to the American side on the fine Suspension Bridge, and +then to Prospect Park, Goat Island, and different peeps and vistas of +the Falls and Rapids. I think the immense breadth and volume of water, +with the incessant rush and roar of the river, strike me more than the +actual Falls. We saw some rapids between the islands "Weird Sisters," +and finally drove to Mr. Macklem's place, surrounded by rapid streams of +the Niagara and very pretty. There seems no end to this river, it has so +many turns and arms and rapids. We had tea (by this time I was nearly +dead), and three dear small boys appeared; one only two and half had a +violin, and he imitated a person playing on it, and made the sounds with +his voice in the most amusing clever way, and laughed so merrily when we +shouted applause. Mr. Macklem drove us home, and after dinner we played +whist in E---'s nice bedroom. This morning I am not well! We have seen +the maids off with the luggage by early rail and boat for Toronto and +follow in afternoon. + + +_Friday, continuing_.--I was unable to see anything more of +Niagara; the others crossed the ferry. We left at twenty minutes to +five, and owing to the steamer being late on Lake Ontario we did not +reach the Macpherson's till half-past nine. They waited dinner, and we +rushed down, at least I did, just twelve minutes after my arrival, and +also dressed! A Mr. Pattison, a very agreeable-looking man, who seems an +authority on farming, and a Mr. and Mrs. Plumb (son of our Niagara +friend), who was once at T--- P---, but I had entirely forgotten him. +Mr. Pattison spoke of the ignorant, idle, good-for-nothing young men +sent out here to make a living by their worried relations, sometimes +with scarcely a sixpence, in which case they starved but for the charity +of himself and others, or if with any money they fell into bad hands and +lost everything. So many are sent here that he has made a kind of home +for the destitute. + + +_Saturday Morning_.--Sir David M--- returned from Ottawa, and we +breakfasted together. We nearly missed the train at Toronto (not having +Miss M--- to keep us in order; I call her Queen Christina, she is so +masterful), but just managed to get ourselves and luggage in, and to see +George Bunburg, whom I had made several attempts to see before, and who +I hear is enterprising and likely to do well. We reached Owen Sound, and +got into the steamer all right about three o'clock. Nice farms nearly +all along the line. + + +_Sunday, 14th September_.--I slept pretty comfortably. We got into +a narrow passage between Lakes Superior and Huron, which was pretty and +curious, great numbers of islands and a very narrow path marked out for +steamers, which, as we met several, made the risk of collision seem very +imminent; they moved very slowly, and have established regular rules of +the road, but cannot travel by night, or if a fog comes on. St. Mary le +Soult is a pretty place, on one side American, where they have made a +lock to avoid the rapids from Lake Huron to Lake Superior. We waited +some time to get into the lock, and then found ourselves in the largest +lake in the world, five hundred miles long by three hundred and fifty +miles wide. Of course, it is like the sea, and while I am writing it is +rough enough to make it difficult. No land is in sight. I have had a +talk with an Archdeacon who lives near St. John's College, Winnipeg, and +is reading "Natural Law;" it is really getting very rough and I must +stop. + + +_Tuesday, 16th_.--I am writing in the train, and I am thankful to +be alive in it. We arrived at Port Arthur at eight o'clock yesterday, +15th, but could hear nothing of our private car, and when the train +arrived no car still to be seen. At last, after hunting about and +asking, everyone, it turned up, and was very satisfactory. Two men were +there to wait on us, and it was well provisioned, and we set off about +an hour and-half late, but no one minds such a trifle in these parts. At +first the line was fairly straight and smooth, but then the country +became wonderfully wild, with rocky hills covered with stumpy trees and +undergrowth of brilliant colouring, and wooded lakes without end. In and +out we wound, sometimes over most light and primitive bridges, and over +high embankments, often running along the margin of the lakes, +consisting of loose sand, which frequently rolled down the sides as we +went over them. It rained nearly all day, and towards night it poured +and was pitch dark. I was just undressed, and congratulating myself that +we had been standing still at a station, and so I had been able to do it +comfortably, and just got into my sofa bed, with Dick and Hedley +opposite me behind their curtains, when we set off, and in a few minutes +I felt a violent concussion; so many jerks come in common course that I +was not frightened, but we stopped, and then our head man came to the +door and said with dignity, "I think it right to announce to you, my +lady, that an accident has happened." "What is it?" "The engine went +over a culvert bridge all right, but the baggage wagon next to it fell, +down off the line, and as we were going slowly they put on the brake and +no other carriage followed." "Can we go on to-night?" "Oh no, the +roadway is broken up." This was a shock to my nerves, but at any rate we +were safe for the night, and after running in and telling John and E---, +we soon all fell asleep. During the night they tacked on an engine, with +its great lamp eye at the back of our car (we are the last carriage), +and every few minutes this monster gave a tremendous snort, but nothing +awoke Hedley, who slumbered peacefully through it all. We got up early, +rushed off to the scene of the disaster, as did all the other +passengers. It was marvellous that the engine went over that bridge, for +really the rails were almost suspended in mid air, but fortunately for +us it did, or we should have followed and telescoped, and probably been +hurt or killed, the baggage wagon being suspended between the engine and +cars, all on one side and down the bank close to the lake, the window +broken through which the guard jumped out. We trembled for our luggage, +which was all there. The lakes and gaily coloured hills that elsewhere I +should admire, make our railroad so dangerous that we have to creep +along, sometimes over long spidery wooden bridges, and again on most +shaky and uncertain looking embankments, and round sharp corners; every +now and then we stop for no apparent reason, and then all rush to the +platform of our car to see what is the matter. Once a party of the +railway officials got out and ran back; we thought some of our luggage +had fallen out, but it seems one of the bridges over which we had just +passed was rather shaky, and they went to investigate. If we had gone on +last night we meant to be detached at Rat Portage, or Lake of the Woods, +but now we go on to Winnipeg if, please God, we can get there. + + +_Wednesday 17th_.--Soon after writing yesterday, our steward came +in with a solemn face and said: "I have unpleasant news to communicate; +a wire has just come to forbid the train crossing the tressel bridge in +front of us, so every one must walk, and the luggage be carried over." +The railroad is only lately completed, and they have had no experience +hitherto of the effect of heavy rains. Some of the bridges are only +temporary ones, but no doubt it will be a good and safe line soon. When +one considers the country it passes through, and the difficulties of all +sorts that they have had to encounter, I think the Canadian Pacific +Railway Company and engineers, &c., deserve great credit. "There is a +train to meet us on the other aide of the bridge to take us on to +Winnipeg;" upon which there was a general outcry. "Part with our +comfortable car and provisions Forbid the thought!" "How long will it +take to repair the bridge?" "I don't know at all; it may be days or a +fortnight." After confabulating with the conductor of the train, we +settled to remain this side of the bridge, and be shunted off till it +was repaired, and tacked on to a train again for Winnipeg. We went as +far as the bridge, and a curious scene was before us; the passengers for +Rocky Mountains on the other side had been waiting there for hours, our +train being delayed by the accident, and they proved to be some of our +long lost friends of the British Association; we greeted each other with +effusion; they rushed on our car, and spoke _all at once_ about the +glories of the Rockies and the dangers they had escaped, and the +_fun_ they had, &c. Some conducted me to the bridge to see what had +happened there; considering that there was a great gap in the bridge, +and the tressels were lying about anyhow, and a great iron crane hung +suspended over the hole by one hook, and the engine lay on its side +below, the wire message telling us it would not be safe to go over was +rather ironical! All the luggage of the two trains was spread all over +the rocks and bushes, and people running here and there, the silent lake +so pretty and lovely in contrast. The men with the crane were coming to +our assistance at Termillion Bay (where our culvert bridge gave way), +and the engineer felt the tressels bending as the engine crossed, and +was considering whether to jump off or stay; he decided to remain in the +cab of the engine, as the jump was a very high one, and down they went +to the bottom, but the men were only cut and bruised, and one broke his +leg. This accounted for the delay in our getting assistance, and +fortunately for us all, that our small accident happened when it did. As +our friends from Winnipeg thankfully exclaimed, "if it had not been for +your accident, which was happily so harmless, we should have gone over +that bridge, and as our train was faster and heavier there would +probably hare been a greater smash;" and we exclaimed, "but for our +comparatively harmless accident, we should have gone over that bridge +that night and come to great grief." Wasn't it a mercy we escaped? We +had Professor Boyd Dawkins, Professor Shaw, Mr. de Hamel, Bishop of +Ontario, Mr. Stephen Bourne, &c., on our car for some miles on our way +_back_, and then we were shunted on a siding to wait as patiently +as we could. At this _Hawk_ something station we parted with our +British Association friends, with many good wishes and waving of +handkerchiefs, and were left shunted on the edge of a disagreeable +embankment over the lake. After all this excitement we read, had dinner +and played whist; then made our own beds, and all the 'boys' slept in +the drawing room with me last night, and E--- had the state cabin to +herself. It was very cold in the night, and I had to hunt up another +rug. We breakfasted at half-past eight, and now the others are taking a +walk while I write. I forgot to say Gibson and Roberts went on with our +luggage, across the bridge (or rather, by its side), in the train which +returned to Winnipeg, and there they will stay till we return from the +Rockies. E--- and the boys are just off in the cab of an engine +exploring to the broken bridge. It will he fun, perhaps, for them, but +_I_ find I have frights enough to endure in our necessary journeys. +There is actually a cow at this station, so we had milk for porridge and +tea; moreover, there is a piece of ploughed land, a rare sight in this +wild stony _watery_ country. The Canadian Pacific Railway have not +had experience before this autumn of the effect of heavy rains on their +roads, bridges, &c., and things have sometimes come to grief in +consequence; some bridges are very good and not temporary. + + +_Later_.--Since writing the foregoing, John and E--- and Hedley +went off on the cow-catcher of an engine for two or three miles +excursion! Dick did not "paddle his own canoe," but the station master +did for him on the lake here, and he _nearly_ succeeded in catching +a large trout! He and I wandered afterwards on the Rocky Hill, and +picked enough blueberries for dinner, and I refreshed my eyes with some +lovely-berried red-leaved little shrubs. Since luncheon a telegram came, +telling us we might go over the bridge, and so off we went, and on +arriving walked all about, some sketching the fallen engine, &c. We set +off with Mr. Egan the manager, in his car in front of us, _en +route_ for Eat Portage, where I am finishing this journal up to this +date, Wednesday, September 17th. It is lovely weather now, and this +place is very pretty, and looks quite civilized after our wilderness +kind of scenery. Mr. Egan is now going on to Winnipeg, and will post +this for me. After our return from the Rockies to Winnipeg, we shall go +to Chicago, Washington and Philadelphia, where write. + + + + +Letter No. 6. + + +_September 21st_, 1884.--I am beginning this in our car _en +route_ to the Rockies, in fact with their snow-covered summits well +in sight. I posted a letter to you, No. 5, at Winnipeg, and also a +newspaper for Mary. From Winnipeg the Canadian Pacific Railway is much +more comfortable, for on the boundless flat of the prairies there is no +need for many tressel bridges or crumbling embankments, and we went +along without fear, excepting that in the neighbourhood of settled +parts, we had to look out for cows. Once we stopped very suddenly (their +brakes are so good in America), having near gone over one in the dark. +They use sometimes a curious kind of sound from the engine, not unlike +the _moo_ of a cow in distress, and I saw it effectually drive some +off the line. The maids met us at Winnipeg Station, and seemed anxious +to go to the Rockies, so we settled they might, and they rushed back for +their things, but they returned only in time to see our train off! On +the whole we thought it was as well they had not come, for maids don't +generally like this kind of life, and we did not need them. We changed +cooks at Winnipeg against my wish, but the others were not satisfied +with our first one, and we have certainly not changed for the better; he +is a coloured man called David, and has been ill, or pretends to be, +since yesterday, and another coloured man whom, we call Jonathan, comes +in to help him. + + +_Saturday_.--We arrived at Moose Jaw after a very rocking journey, +so bad that I could not sleep, and sat in a chair part of the night; at +last, however, the cold and sleepiness overcame all fear, and I slept in +my bed soundly. We saw lots of Indians in red and white blankets, ugly +and uninteresting creatures. We made acquaintance with the Roman +Catholic Archbishop, who has been travelling in the car next to ours. He +is a French Canadian, but talked English well. He is very pleasant. He +introduced me to two priests, one of whom had been working among the +Indians thirty years. Afterwards he had a talk with John, and remarked +upon my youthfulness to be his mother. Of course, I am always being +taken for his wife, and they seem very much puzzled about it altogether. + + +_Saturday night, the 20th_.--We reached Calgary after a quieter +night--quite an important city. A good many wooden houses, two or three +churches (I think the congregations must be very small in each), and on +Sunday morning all the inhabitants were out in their best, the men +loafing and smoking about, and quite smart-looking young ladies showing +their finery with great enjoyment, as they do at home. A mounted police +officer drove a pair of good horses to meet some of his men, and there +are cavalry barracks here for them. The train twice a week from Winnipeg +is their only communication with the outer world, so when it arrives +everyone, even from long distances, crowds the platform. We always take +a walk at these resting places, but it is nervous work to go far, as the +train starts without any notice, and they never keep to the time named. + + +_Wednesday, September 25th_.--After leaving Calgary, which I +forgot to say is near a coal mine (Mr. de Winton, son of Sir Francis, +has a ranch near), and is likely to be an important place some day, we +went to Laggan, which is well into the mountains, and there we saw +Professor George Ramsay, brother of Sir James, and he told us to get +hold of the contractor, Mr. Ross, who would help us about going further +on. The railway people, &c., all said to our great disgust that ladies +would not be allowed to go down the steep incline to British Columbia; +upon this we found out Mr. Boss, and he kindly consented to take us down +the Pacific slope in his own car. At first the boys said I had better +remain behind in our own car, but I felt that if there was a risk I +would rather encounter it with them, and I wanted to see more of the +country, so we prepared to start on Monday, but it poured, and Mr. Ross +would not go till Tuesday. We took a small bag with night-gown, brush +and comb, &c., and left the rest of our goods in charge of the odious, +but I think honest, David, and started yesterday morning in Mr. Ross's +car, in some respects a more convenient one than ours, for it has a +writing table and a stove in the sitting room after an early breakfast +at half-past seven. It was a glorious sunny day. We had two engines +reversed, one before and one behind, and no end of brakes with safety +'switches,' every now and then to be turned on and to send us up hill if +the engines ran away with us, and we crept down very slowly. It was very +exciting, and the scenery magnificent, vistas of snowy mountains opening +continually as we turned the corners, covered with brilliant yellow and +red and purple foliage; and when we came to the foot of Mount Stephen +(called after Mr. George Stephen, of Montreal), Mr. Ross said, "we ought +to call one mountain Rayleigh." I exclaimed, "Oh, yes! There is a +beautiful snow one which has been in sight all the way coming down, let +that be Raleigh." And so it was agreed, and E--- and I sketched +it.--Afterward Mr. Ross, said, "Rayleigh has quite a family after him," +a curious succession of gradually decreasing tops, and we agreed that +they should be _his five brothers_. At one place we went down to a +bridge, very high over a river, and I thought, "it would be unpleasant +if the engine runs away here," but curiously enough I was not at all +nervous, for I felt so much care was taken, and it was a glorious day, +and the scenery lifted one's soul above the small things of life +_here_, and made one think of Him who created all these wonders, +and yet became our human friend and sympathizer, and now lives to give +us bye and bye even "greater things than these!" At last we got to the +_Flats_ all safe, and then John and Dick walked to the end of the +"construction," about five miles. If one was prepared to ride and rough +it exceedingly, one could reach the Pacific in ten days, but ladies +could not undergo the hardships, and we would not be left alone. Mr. +Ross informed us that we must return soon to Kicking Horse Lake and +Laggan, as there would be no train later. However, we said that John was +extremely anxious to see the working of the line at the end, and it +would be a great pity for him not to have the time, and "_could_ we +stay the night?" He replied, "certainly." Hedley and E--- walked on at a +great pace after the other two, beyond my powers, and I sauntered on +quietly alone, only meeting a few men, belonging to the railway in most +cases and working on the line, which is the only _road_ which one +can walk on comfortably here, and I got three miles, but then a horrid +bridge stopped me, as I hate walking on planks far apart over a height +without a helping hand. I have been all along struck with the far +superior accent and good English of the working men in America (Canada +especially); they have often very good features, too, and wear a +well-shaped moustache, and meet one with a smile. They treat one as +equals, but they are not at all rude, and are always willing to help. I +spoke to some in my solitary walk, and only that they were hard at work +hammering in nails, &c., I should have liked to "tell them a story." +They all returned from end of "construction" on a truck train, Dick and +E--- on an open car, and Hedley and John in the cab of the engine. We +then dined; such a fat coloured man Mr. Ross has in his car! He could +hardly squeeze through the narrow passages, but he managed to give us +something to eat. Mr. Ross received a telegram later to say Mr. Angus, +our host at Montreal, Mr. Donald Smith, both directors of the Canadian +Pacific Railway, Mr. Cyrus Field, &c., &c., were at Calgarry, and wanted +to _come on_, so all is arranged for them, and they are expected +soon, and we hope to return with them this afternoon to Laggan, to our +own car. Last evening E--- suddenly said, "I wish we could sleep in a +tent?" Mr. Ross answered, "I can easily manage it for you," and +accordingly two men of business (I think contractors for food, &c.), +were turned out of their tent, and came to our car, and John and E--- +slept in their small tent near the river. I don't think they will want +to do it _again_, and I was better off in a nice room all to +myself, where I could dress comfortably, but had not many appliances for +that end. We all met at eight o'clock breakfast, and our black man (who +looked more than ever like a large bolster, well filled and tied at the +top for his head), cooked us an eatable beef-steak, and after this John +and Mr. Ross's brother "_Jack_" rode off to penetrate as far as +they could beyond "construction." I am a little nervous about his ride, +for the road is a mere track, and very rough, however, wagons and mules +_do_ travel on it. E--- has made many pretty sketches; mine are +scanty and perfectly horrid. I don't improve at all. The sun is trying +to come out. We are on a siding, close to numbers of tents and mules and +wagons, a sort of depot for provisions, clothes, &c. I have never seen a +tipsy man or woman since I landed at Quebec! and in many parts of Canada +alcohol cannot be bought, and the penalty is _always_ severe for +selling or giving it to an Indian. Further on I passed yesterday quite a +"city" of tents; over one was printed "Hotel Fletcher," another, +"Restaurant, meals at all hours," "Denver Hotel," "Laundry," "Saloon," +&c. These are _speculations_, and are not connected with railway +officials. Some of the men (one was taking a photograph of "the city,") +have the American _twang_. Mr. Rosa is going off directly the +directors arrive, far into the interior, on an exploring tour into the +Selkirk range, &c. The line is "graded" about fifty miles further on, +and the bridges and tunnels are making. They are working the other end +from Port Moodie on the Pacific, and will meet by the spring of next +year. What a pity the British Association's visit to Canada was not in +1885 instead of 1884? Some day are going to carry the line higher up, so +as to avoid the steep incline down which we travelled so cautiously, but +they are very anxious to get the line done _somehow_, and it is +really wonderful at what a pace they go. + + +_Calgarry, September 27th_.--On Wednesday, 24th, after John had +gone off riding, Dick and I waited about for the directors' car, which +we expected that morning, but alas! though it arrived at eleven, they +only stopped at the telegraph office a moment, took no notice of us, and +went on to the end of "construction," returning in about an hour, (John +got back much later, and we wondered why Mr. Ross advised him to go, as +it obliged him to miss this car); they again only made a pause, during +which Dick spoke to Mr. Angus, and E--- also had a few words with Mr. D. +Smith, but she was too modest in urging our claims to be helped on up +the incline and they went and left us in the lurch. I heard afterwards +that the American part of the company were in a great hurry to get on, +Mr. Angus Field having telegrams following him all along the line, but +we should not have detained them, and they would only have had to drop +us at Laggan, where our own car was waiting. So we had to wait another +night, and all went to bed very grumpy! + + +_Thursday, 25th_.--After breakfast we walked some way, and then +Hedley and I remained at the telegraph station (this is the only source +of information in these parts), and the others went on. An hour or two +later the freight train began to think of starting up the incline, and +Hedley and I got into the cab of the engine. We soon came up with E---, +who joined us there. Some two or three miles further on John and Dick +appeared, wildly gesticulating as they stood on the middle of the line +to try and stop us, but the engineer declared we were now on too steep +an incline, and on we went, much to our dismay, for this entailed thirty +or forty miles walk for rheumatic John and not over-strong Dick. We +reached the top all right, and found ourselves at "Kicking Horse Lake," +and to our great relief up walked John and Dick. It seems they made a +rush at the train as it passed, and John jumped on an open car all +right--but Dick caught his foot in a sleeper and fell down, but had the +presence of mind to pick himself up very quickly, and caught the last +engine (we had one at each end) and jumped on the cow catcher! I +shuddered to think what _might_ have happened to Dick when he fell, +but he only got a bruise on his knee and a severe injury to his +trousers! We reached Laggan about half-past one, and found our cook +still much of an invalid, with a real negro to assist him! I think the +negroes are much more manly and altogether pleasanter than the +half-breeds, who are mean, discontented, and impertinent when they dare. +This negro was a capital servant, and had lived with his present master +(to whom he was returning after the said master's absence in Europe) +twelve years. We left Laggan at half-past nine, Friday 26th, and had +glorious scenery, most of which we had previously passed in the dark. +Rocky mountains with their snowy tops all about us, and the lovely +yellow and red and purple colouring on their sides. E--- sketched +vigorously and I smudged! We reached Calgarry about five, and found the +Indians in great force, for they had received their treaty money quite +lately, and were arrayed in gorgeous blankets of red and white and blue, +and any number of gold and coloured beads! They are quiet enough, and +don't look at all as if they would venture to scalp us, or make an +oration like "Chincanchooke" with dignified eloquence; the expression of +the elder ones is unpleasant, and you can see at once the results of +even a _little_ education by the brighter and happier countenances +of the boys and girls. I took a lonely walk on the prairie, over which a +strong cold wind was blowing. I saw several people riding in the +distance. We left Calgarry on 27th, Saturday, by a train partly freight, +and consequently it rocked and jumped, and crashed and crunched, and we +could scarcely play whist, or hear each other speak, and when we went to +bed sleep was banished, at least from _my_ eyes. I watched the +stars instead, and the brilliant morning star about three or four +o'clock shining like a small moon, and then the sun rise over the +prairie. We arrived at Winnipeg about six o'clock, on _Monday, +29th_; our _nasty_ cook had no dinner provided for us, and +though we had authority for remaining that night in the car to sleep, +conflicting orders produced all kinds of unpleasantness, and we were +shunted about and taken two or three miles off from the depot where +alone we could get anything to eat. After making a great fuss we were +taken back and had a good dinner at the restaurant, which we enjoyed +after our monotonous fare in the car. Our maids, who had been a +fortnight at the Hotel doing nothing but spending our money, met us and +brought letters, &c. Dick heard from Augusta for the first time--her +letters had not reached him. + + + + +LORD RAYLEIGH, THE PRESIDENT OF THE BRITISH ASSOCIATION, AND PARTY +RETURN FROM THE ROCKIES. + + +Lord Rayleigh, the president of the British Association for the +advancement of Science, Lady Rayleigh, Clara Lady Rayleigh, Hon. Hedley +Strutt and Hon. Richard Strutt returned yesterday afternoon from the +Rookies in a private car attached to the regular train. + +A TIMES reporter boarded the car about nine o'clock last night, and had +a pleasant chat with Lord Rayleigh and the members of the party. They +went to within a few miles of the Columbia River, saw the rails being +laid on the Canadian Pacific Railway and were very much pleased with the +wonderful rapidity the work was being done. Lord Rayleigh said he +thought the Rockies were one of the wonders of the world--next to the +Canadian Pacific, chimed in Mr. Strutt and Clara Lady Rayleigh. The +latter said the party were struck with the brightness, intelligence and +kindness of the men along the Canadian Pacific Railway line. The +kindness they had shown to them would never be forgotten. The party +could scarcely believe that the towns along the railway had grown up to +their present size within the past two or three years, as they did not +think it possible in a new country like this. They were loud in their +praises of the country, and predicted that thousands of emigrants would +come from England to Manitoba as a result of the Association's visit +here. The party put up at the Potter House to-day, and will leave for +the east to-night--_Winnipeg Daily Times, September 30th._ + + + + +Letter No. 7 + + +_Washington, Sunday, 5th_ + +I was obliged to leave off yesterday, and now proceed to take up the +tale begun in the train to Chicago. I was telling you about our arrival +at Winnipeg, &c. We returned to our car after dinner and found +ourselves, during our first sleep, shunted off to a repairing shed, and +presently I heard what seemed a shower of stones thrown all over the +car. I could look out of a window sitting up in my bed, and on doing so, +I saw two men violently throwing water over it from a hose, and some of +it came into my bed, upon which I showed my lovely countenance with +dishevelled hair and indignant expression, and called out: "Are you +going to drown me in my bed?" and then I heard a man say--"La! there is +a young lady at the window! don't disturb her!" however, just at dawn +they were at it again, and at six o'clock began to move us into the +shed. I jumped up and expostulated in my dressing gown on the platform +(all the rest were in their beds) and insisted upon their asking for +orders from headquarters; just then, fortunately, an early bird in the +shape of a representative of the _Press_ appeared, and I got John +to talk to him, and he went off to the authorities, and we were shunted +to the depot again, and so got our breakfast by ten o'clock; the +reporters always think I am John's wife (E--- is generally out of the +way), and I believe the last idea is, that John and I have a grown up +family, of which E--- is one! It is rather fun to be _interviewed_, +and John is now less shy about it, and consents to be pumped (in a +_measure_). After breakfast we all drove in a horse-car up the main +street, and were twice off the rails and sunk into a mud hole, and the +boys had to help in lifting the omnibus out of it. They are slowly +paving the streets, but there _never_ was such a muddy lane calling +itself a street anywhere before, I am sure; there are nice shops, +however, and respectably dressed people walking or driving. We lunched +and _cleaned_ ourselves at _Potter House_, where the maids had +been living during our absence in the Rockies, and it seems Mrs. Smith, +the landlady, came from Lady Ward's, and knew the Claughtons, and lived, +for years with the Miss Bakers at Boss, (these unexpected encounters +make one realize how narrow the world is). The country is ugly about +Winnipeg, and so after paying a visit to the Archdeacon, whom we met in +going there some fortnight ago, and seeing his nice house and wife, we +dined at the depot and left for _Chicago_, our coloured cook was +walking and dawdling about apparently quite well, now that he had got +rid of us. We had sleeping berths in the train--an unknown man slept in +the one over mine, and I had to dress and undress behind the curtains of +my own. We breakfasted at Barnsville Wednesday morning, and that evening +stopped in pouring rain at _Milwaukie_; it is a finely situated +town, but the station had been lately burnt down, and we were very cold +and uncomfortable for two hours. Poking about to amuse themselves, the +boys saw a large long deal box, directed Mrs. J. Stacey, and on a card +attached, "This is to certify Mr. J. Stacey did not die of any +infectious complaint." So he was waiting there to be sent on to her by +next train, and we hope she got him safely. + + +_Thursday, Two o'clock p.m._, we reached Chicago. Minnieappolis, +which we passed through, is likely to be a fine city. We went to the +Grand Pacific Hotel and were separated by long corridors and staircases, +and spent our time chiefly in trying to find one another amidst its vast +solitudes. Of course one never sees a chambermaid, or any one, and the +quantity of little dishes and fine sounding names which one is served +with at meals does not make up for the other discomforts. + + +_Friday, 3rd._--John had a letter to the pork-killing man, Mr. +Armour, and he kindly sent two carriages for us, with an assistant, who +was to lionize us about. We drove first to the Bank and got some money, +and then through the best parts of the town, along the Michigan +Boulevards, through which we had glimpses of the Lake, but everything +here is sacrificed to the almighty _dollar_, and the railway +engines poke themselves in everywhere, down the best streets, and +destroying the prettiest landscapes, and making unearthly noises close +to your bedroom, or puffing their steam out under your nose as you walk. + +Chicago looks a more bustling, and a newer and a more railroad- +dominated place than Glasgow, but like it in smoke and business aspect. +As to the Boulevards, the houses are most of them new, and some in +startling styles of architecture. Some in red, which are very good. One +was nearly finished of white marble, quite a palace, with more ground +than usual round it; but alas, for human hopes, the man who owns it and +_millions_ of dollars, has lately been pronounced _mad_, is in +the care of a wife whom he lately married, and who does not care for +him, and he will die before his marble palace is finished. There are no +_prettinesses_, flowers, &c., about these fine houses, perhaps +accounted for by the forty or fifty degrees below zero which they +sometimes enjoy at Chicago. After six miles driving we got to the +Piggery, &c., and the least said about that the better; it is certainly +wonderful, but disgusting--the most interesting parts were the enormous +yards containing _cattle_, all arranged comfortably, with hay and +water, &c., and the tin-making business for the preserved meats (the tin +all comes from England). Travelling for the last three or four weeks we +have seen little hills of tin boxes perpetually along the line, as the +people in the trains and stations, &c., seem to live almost entirely on +tinned goods. After this we had a hasty luncheon, and I decided to +accompany John and E--- here, and not wait for Dick who wanted to stay +longer. We could not find our maids to tell them, and I had to pack a +great deal myself, meaning to leave Gibson to follow with the rest, but +they turned up at last, and we had a great scrimmage to get off in the +"bus." John thought we might not have time to check our luggage, and so +began to seek for tickets to give the maids, but he could not understand +them so a kind American in the 'bus explained them, and after all we +were in time, thanks again to the said American, who _passed_ E--- +and me to the train, assuring the railway people that he had seen our +tickets, and he also got us into the sleeping car. When I was thanking +him warmly, I added, "You must be amused to see such distracted English +travellers?" "Well," he answered, "we are as bad in your country till we +are used to it." After a great deal of shaking and going a great pace +round many curves, which quite prevented us sleeping, we got _here_ +(Washington) yesterday at six o'clock. A man met us who was sent by an +astronomer friend of John's, and brought us to this hotel, Wormley's. On +our way in a spic and span omnibus we felt _going down_ on one +side, and found a wheel had come of. We jumped out, and a crowd +collected, and finally we had to transfer our baggage and ourselves into +another omnibus, and got through some handsome wide streets, with trees +each side and good shops, to this hotel. Our first view of Washington +was a lovely one, coming in with the Potomac river in front, and the +fine Capitol, on a hill, backed by a glorious red sunset, which +reflected all in the river; it looked like an Italian scene. This is +said to be a "city of magnificent distances," being planned for future +greatness, and very like Paris in conception. We found acquaintances +here, and John went with, one to the Observatory. This morning we all +went to the American Episcopal Church, St. John's, rather "high," but +nothing really objectionable. This is the centenary of the consecration +of the first American Bishop, Dr. Siebury, Bishop of Connecticut, who, +after having implored _our_ Bishops in London to consecrate him, +went at last to Scotland, and "there in an upper room received Apostolic +orders from the Scotch Bishops, then called non-jurors." We were all +struck with the handsome features of both men and women in church. In +company with a great many others, we remained to Holy Communion, and I +don't think I ever enjoyed it more than among these brethren--strangers, +and separated by the wide Atlantic from our English Church, but joined +to us by "one Lord, one faith," &c. After luncheon John had a chat with +a French scientist, and Mr. Rutherford and his handsome son, and General +and Mrs. Strachy, and Professor Adams, the astronomer; many of these +people are here in conclave about _Greenwich_ time, &c. John and +E--- are now gone driving about with his friend. It is _very hot_, +and poor Hedley is quite knocked down, but we took a little walk. + + +_Later_.--After dinner a good many adjourned to the drawing-room, +Captain and Mrs. Ray, the Strachys, Rutherfords, &c. We had a scientific +experiment with the shadow of the moon. Mr. Ray told a curious story of +a wasp. He saw it advance slowly to a great _spider_, which the +wasp apparently completely mesmerised, and then the wasp carried him off +to a little house he had made, and deposited the spider next an +_egg_, then another _egg_, and again another spider, till +there was a long row alternately, then the larvae awoke to life, and +_lived_ upon the spiders, who remained fat and well-liking, and +apparently alive up to that point. Captain Ray says he believes Mr. +Scott is right in saying that the American side will never be able to +give us warning of storms which will be of any use, for not more than +one in ten of their storms reach us; our storms come from the North and +Mid-Atlantic. Captain Ray fills the same post here that Mr. Scott does +in London, meteorological and weather prophet. Presently a nigger of +fine appearance, with a companion, played the banjo and sung. It was +really very pretty, and we stood at the porch listening, and numbers of +white-robed figures appeared on the opposite side (the young women so +arrayed walk about a good deal these hot nights), and a little crowd +gathered round us. It is surprising how little music and amusement they +seem to have. + + + + +Letter No 8. + + +_Washington, Wormley's Hotel, Monday, 6th._ + +The weather has been "exceptionally" hot, they say, for the time of +year, Hedley quite unable to do anything. John went up the Monument, +five hundred feet, and I went with Gibson to see the Capitol. The dome +looks pretty from a distance, but the whole thing strikes me as large, +handsome, uninteresting and vulgar; we inspected the Congress Hall and +Senate Chamber. The view from the terrace was fine. At four o'clock +Hedley and I accompanied Mr. Strachy to Arlington Heights, where there +is a large cemetery for soldiers. It was formerly the country home of +General Robert Lee, the hero of the Confederate War. It was intensely +melancholy to drive through the graves of eleven thousand and odd +soldiers, all killed in the second battle of Bull's Run (I believe), two +thousand of them _unknown_, and buried in one grave, mostly young +volunteers who had _just_ joined. Each white stone told the story +of the bereaved families, and the destruction of so much happiness. The +view of the Potomac and Washington is very fine, and one thought +sorrowfully of the poor Lees who gave up their pretty home and _all +else_, for the sake of Virginia, and in vain! + + +_Tuesday, 7th_.--John and E--- and I went to Mount Vernon, +Washington's residence and tomb. H--- somehow missed us, which quite +spoilt _my_ day. The air in the steamer was delightful, and the +Potomac is mildly pretty. We were left at Mount Vernon, and I was +disgusted with the shabbiness and untidiness of the tomb of the great +patriot; that even in _his_ case such a want of sentiment and +reverence should be shown does not speak well for his countrymen. I +spoke of this to many people afterwards, and they say it is owing to his +family, who would not allow the tomb to be moved. In the evening we +dined with our Minister, Mr. West, at the Embassy. It is a fine house, +and we enjoyed our evening. There were only Mr. Johnstone and Mr. Helier +attached to the Legation, besides ourselves. Miss West now presides over +her father's house, and is very attractive; brought up in a convent in +Paris, and speaks English with a strong accent. Miss West has given me +some letters of introduction to people at Newport. They showed us some +curious beans, which jumped about in an odd way when held over the light +a little while. It is said there is a worm inside, which is influenced +by the warmth. + + +_Wednesday_.--We meant to leave to-day, but Dick turned up +unexpectedly from Chicago, and we put off going to Philadelphia that we +might start together. We went over the White House to-day, where the +President lives, and saw the blue room in which he receives every one, +rather ugly I thought it, and the bedroom in which President Garfield +was ill, &c. In the afternoon John and E--- went to Baltimore, as he has +scientific acquaintances there, and I don't know when we shall meet +again. + + +_Thursday_.--Hedley has just returned from Dick's hotel, and says +he does not go to Philadelphia to-day, so we start alone at two o'clock. +Last night two violent showers of rain cleared the atmosphere, and it is +quite cool and pleasant this morning. I heard from Mr. B--- from +Baltimore, and he says he is going to be married on the 15th, and hopes +we will go to pay them a visit on the 16th; however, as the time does +not suit, and I don't know his intended wife, I have declined. + + +_Friday, 10th, Hotel Lafayette, Philadelphia._ + +Last night I had the great pleasure of receiving four letters--one from +you, and one from C--- and Mary, and Margaret. We left Dick behind at +Washington, but he arrived last night; the journey was a pleasant one +and the scenery pretty, especially Chesapeake Bay. I hear mosquitos +swarm at Baltimore and so I am glad we did not go there. This is a very +large hotel and I am on seventh floor, No. 750! Close to me is a fire +escape, which I carefully investigated. We got cheated coming here from +the station, and _so did Dick_, to our great triumph! The country +coming here was more English and well populated than any we have seen. +Going up in the lift who should I find there but Dr. Gladstone, one of +our fellow passengers on the "Parisian;" we all laughed. Since I began +this a very kind note has come by hand from Mr. Childs, of the _Public +Ledger_, saying Mrs. C--- is at New York, but he will try to get her +back on Saturday; he is coming to call at a quarter-past two, and offers +us carriages to drive about. + + +_Half-past One_.--We have just come back from seeing the Roman +Catholic Cathedral--not much worth seeing excepting a beautiful picture +of our Lord as a Child among the doctors. We also saw the Academy of +Arts, but there was nothing we cared for. I have had a kind note from +Mrs. James Neilson, who hopes to see us at New Brunswick, _en +route_ for New York. + + +_Sunday, 12th_.--Mr. Childs came, a short, stout man, and very +kind; he sent the carriage at three, and we drove in Fairmount Park, the +largest park in the world, and really very pretty; saw conservatories +and gardens with bright, but only _foliage_, plants--wonderful +perillas, alternantheras, tresine, &c. It was a most lovely evening and +we enjoyed the three hours' airing; it was perfectly clear and still, +with sunshine and fresh balmy air. Yesterday (Saturday) directly after +breakfast we went as by appointment to Mr. Childs' office; he has a +beautifully fitted-up room, filled with all kinds of curiosities,--Tom +Moore's harp, Washington's chair, Louis Napoleon's cup and saucer, +splendid clocks of all kinds; one of them belonged to Lord Howe, which +he had to leave behind him when he was "obliged to run away from the +States in such a hurry!" Mr. Childs' seemed to think I must know all +about this, but I am afraid I had quite forgotten that humiliation. This +reminds me of a story I heard lately of an American lionizing an +Englishman about; they came within sight of Bunker's Hill, and the +American as delicately and modestly as he could announced: "_That_, +sir, is Bunker's Hill," the Englishman put up his glass and looked, and +then said: "And who was Bunker, and what did he do on his hill?" Imagine +the American's indignation at this gross ignorance! To return to Mr. +Childs' room; while there several ladies called, and among them Mrs. +Bloomfield Moore; she talked well and we made friends, and she proposed +to call for us and take us a drive, to which we agreed. After she had +gone Mr. Childs told me she was a poetess and a millionaire, and was +supposed to be engaged to Browning the poet. A man was then told off to +escort us over the building, and a wonderful place it is. All the +printing and editorial work and "job" work so beautifully arranged and +everything in such perfect order. The _Public Ledger_ prints about +80,000 a day, or rather night, and Mr. Childs is the proprietor. Almost +all the American news comes to us from his office from a Mr. Cook, who +telegraphs it to the _Times_. Mr. Cook told me that all the +speeches at the opening of the British Association meeting at +Montreal--Lord Lansdowne's, Sir William Thomson's, &c.,--were +telegraphed to London before they were delivered, John's address had +been left in London before he started. Mr. Cook got the substance of +these speeches beforehand. After this we went to the Electric Exhibition +going on here, and Dick tried an organ; then we had a drive with ----; +she talked all the time and told me all about her husband and his will, +and how astonished everyone was to find what immense confidence in her +it proved; she knows Mrs. Capel Cure and Miss Western, and she has just +bought a good house in London. She is much interested in Mr. Keally (the +inventor of Keally's motor), and has supported him through all the +incredulity and opposition he has met with; she believes he has +discovered a new force, and has just made some experiments before ten or +twelve people, in which without any apparent power of machinery he +produced astonishing results, _not_ electric and not compressed +air, or, if the latter, he has found one a way of producing wonderful +power without the usually necessary accompaniments. This is what _I +hear; he_ says it is a force in ether, which is a medium separating +atoms, but he will not tell his secret till he has taken out his +patents. Mr. Childs sent us some tickets for the opera here, and I gave +Mrs. A. B--- one, and we all went, the music was pretty and singing +good. Mr. Rosengarten, a friend of Mr. Childs, came into the box, and +between one of the acts asked me if I would like to see some typical +American political meetings? I said "Oh, yes;" so he carried me off, and +the boys followed, to a splendid opera house, which was crammed to the +galleries by a very respectable-looking, quiet audience, listening most +attentively to the "Prohibition" candidate, who was shouting and +apparently pleasing them much, but being behind him on the platform +(they wanted me to go close to him but I would not), I could not hear +the point of his jokes. Then we went to the Academy of Music, also a +very large place, where a more rowdy lot were listening very quietly, +however, to General Butler. Certainly no meetings of such size could +take place in England with such entire absence of noise or policemen, of +carriages, or cabs. We went to bed very tired having had so much to +interest us all day. Mr. Childs, by the bye, has sent me a present of +some china and a box full of lovely roses, which I shared with the sons +and Mrs. A. B---. I see I have not mentioned before that I received +yours and Mary's letter of 28th September, which came very soon after my +birthday. This morning we went to a Presbyterian Church by mistake, but +it was very dull and we soon went out and went to another close by, +which turned out to be Ritualistic, but at any rate the music, and +better still, the sermon, was very good,--"What think ye of Christ?" It +was all of Him, so no one could object, not even you! Hedley and I then +rushed off to the Lincoln Institution for Training Indian Girls, where +Mr. Rosengarten was to meet us. It is a very interesting and useful work +(the boys are also under training but we did not see that part of the +Institution) and the girls look so thriving and happy, and the teachers +say they are _above_ the average in intelligence; they sung a chant +and hymn and gave me a photograph to take home. Mr. Rosengarten offered +to take Hedley with him for a drive to see some of his relations, and so +I have been alone since--reading, and writing to you. + + + + +Letter No. 9. + + +_October 14th_.--I sent my last letter to you on Sunday, and on +Monday morning Mr. Childs called and brought me a note from Mrs. Childs +saying she was very unwell and her doctor said she must be quiet, and +would we defer our visit till Wednesday? I declined this at once, and +Mr. Childs seemed very sorry, but when Dick joined us he said we were in +no great hurry to leave Philadelphia and might as well stay, so I could +only agree to remain till Thursday. He gave us seats at the Theatre to +hear "May Blossom" (a pretty _good_ play, which we all enjoyed), +and he asked me if I wanted any books to read? I said "Yes, I should be +very glad of some," thinking he would lend me a few of his own; well, a +large parcel soon arrived with a lovely copy of Longfellow's Poems and +my name in it, and lots of story books, all new. This morning (Tuesday) +our future host at New Brunswick called, a nice-looking, lively man, and +we go to them on Thursday--Mr. James Neilson. Yesterday afternoon we +spent two hours at Mrs. A. B---'s, and met Mr. Keally. He is a curious +person, and looks full of _fire_, and I should say _not_ an +impostor, but I should not be surprised if he was _mad!_ He talked +away tremendously quickly, and used all kinds of new words invented to +suit his discovery, and I got quite exhausted trying to understand him; +all I could really make out was that he professed to have decomposed +_hydrogen_, and evolved a lighter element from it, and that his new +force has something to do with _vibration_; that he multiplies +vibrations almost infinitely, and can distinguish _divisions_ of +_tones_ in an unusual manner. Those who have seen his experiments +lately, declare that _no_ force with which scientists are +acquainted could produce the same effects with the machinery used. "If +it is a trick," he said, "at any rate it is a trick worth knowing--if a +pint of water can send a train from this to New York, which it will do +shortly." He employs several people to make his machinery, but when they +have made it and used it successfully, they declare they don't know +_why_ or _how_ it is done. I am trying to persuade John to +stop here on Friday on his way from Baltimore and see one of his +experiments. I have heard John say that he expected some great discovery +would be made shortly, and in the _chemical_ direction. Mr. Keally +is a mechanist, and says he discovered this force by accident. It is +curiously like the one in Bulwer's novel, which everyone was possessed +of and could destroy anything in a moment. Mrs. A. B--- is going to take +us a drive this afternoon. At present my letters to Newport have only +produced an invitation to dine with Mrs. Belmont on Saturday, which we +are unable to accept. Hedley enjoyed his Sunday outing with Mr. +Rosengarten, and was introduced to heaps of people, and felt quite an +important person. He is always much liked, and _I_ am not +surprised. + + +_Wednesday, 15th_.--At two o'clock we met Mr. Childs at the +station, and went with him to Bryan Maur by rail, and then his carriage +met us and took us to his farm and stables, &c., and then to his house; +it is all very new and very tidy and pretty. He told his wife to buy any +land she liked four years ago, and build anything she liked on it, and +now he has paid the bills and handed her the deeds, and it is all her +own. That's the way husbands do things in America! The wives and +children have a good time here, and the working classes, too, have many +privileges, or perhaps, I should say, that they _share_ them with +the richer and more educated people; everywhere, in the trains and trams +and restaurants of stations and waiting rooms there is _equality_, +and considering all things one does not suffer much by the mixture +excepting that they "_level down_," and one misses the comforts and +_quiet_ of the English railroads. Some of the working men are +remarkably fine and intelligent looking, and always quiet and well +behaved. I do not observe any very great politeness to women, which I +was led to expect was the prevailing habit in the United States, but I +notice that the fathers are wonderfully gentle and helpful with the +children. Mrs. Childs is a bright little woman, and sings well, which +you would scarcely expect when hearing her voice in speaking. It is a +pity that so many of the women have such unpleasant voices, and the +_men_ have generally nothing harsh in their tones. A captain of one +of the Cunard steamers sat next me, and seeing my distress over a +plateful of very large oysters, whispered, "you need not eat them." We +had carefully abstained from luncheon, as dinner was at four o'clock, +and this was the menu for dinner: soup, _big_ oysters, boiled cod, +then devilled crab (which I ate, and it was very good), then very tough +stewed beef-steak, large _blocks_ of ice-cream, and peaches, and +that was all! So my dinner consisted of crab, and I was obliged to have +something to eat on our return to the hotel. Mr. Childs is very rich, +and gives away immensely. He showed me a valuable collection of +autographs, &c., given him by Mrs. S. C. Hall, whose husband, now an old +man I believe, he partly supports. We left at half-past eight, and this +morning, _Thursday, 16th_, Mr. Childs called early with his +picture, framed, as a present. Sir William and Lady Thomson, and +probably John and E---, are going to the Childs' on Saturday till +Monday, and Mrs. B. M---, who called, is very anxious that they should +see the Keally experiments. I hear John and E--- are going to Boston. +_We_ are starting this afternoon for Woodlawn, New Brunswick, the +Neilsons' place, and to-day I have, an invitation from Mrs. Pruyn of +Albany. We are about to take our berths on board the Cunard steamer +_Oregon_, which starts on 12th November. I had a great pleasure +this morning in receiving from Clara a large photograph of _you_ +and Arthur Paley. It is very nice, and I am very glad she arranged so +cleverly for you to be taken! You don't look quite so miserable and +cross, as is your _wont_ in general when being photographed. Clara +and S--- were at a large evening party lately at Euston, where they met +the Princess Frederica of Hanover, whom I have met several times at dear +Katty Mande's, and she inquired about us from Clara. + + +_Woodlawn, New Brunswick, October 20th_.--We arrived here +Thursday. Mrs. M--- called and kindly took me to the station, and +presented me with some beautiful roses, which I brought here unpacked +and gave to Mr. Neilson. Major R. S--- spoke to me again at the hotel +about the Keally motor, and fervently repeated that after a thorough +inspection of the machinery he is convinced that a new force is at work. +Mr. Neilson and his carriage met us at the station. He is very lively +and full of information, having travelled a great deal, and overflowing +with "_go_." She is very handsome and nice, and nothing can be +kinder than they are. It is a pretty cottage, close to his mother's +house, and with some grounds round them. + + +_Friday, 17th_.--We took a long drive, Mr. Neilson driving at a +rapid pace, and the river and foliage was pretty, but the scenery here +is not remarkable, and the town of New Brunswick does not look +_rich_, or flourishing. In the evening we went to his mother's, had +tea, oysters and birds, and then a number of people came; Dr. and Mrs. +Cook, Professor of Chemistry, and Mr. and Mrs. and Miss Warren, several +Carpenters, who are cousins of the Neilsons, Admiral and Mrs. Admiral +Boggs, Dr. and Mrs. Hart. He is a Dutch clergyman of the Dutch church +here, and has been at John's laboratory at Cambridge, and talked about +him and his work. I observe the gentlemen stand talking to _each +other_ a good deal as we do in England. Mrs. Neilson _mere_ is a +very nice old lady, with white hair, and something like you. She spoke +about my brother Hedley, and tears came into her eyes as we talked; +everyone here seems to have read his memoirs, and I enclose a scrap out +of the New Brunswick paper, which will show you how he is remembered. +Mrs. T. Neilson seems a capital housekeeper, and the cooking and +everything seems so good and comfortable. Mr. Neilson owns most of the +town, and is delighted when he can _sell_ some of it, and the +neighbours are nearly all his cousins. He says the municipal government +of the town, &c., is at a _dead lock_. Nothing can be done to the +_roads_, (which are disgraceful!) or the streets, which are +dreadful _everywhere_ nearly, that there is perpetual bribery and +corruption, and all owing to universal suffrage, which makes the +respectable people quite helpless! This is the view of all the people I +stayed with or spoke to. On _Saturday, 18th_, we made a long +excursion to Long Branch, going by train to Redbank, a pretty village, +where we got a carriage and drove to Long Branch, a favourite watering +place of this part of the country and New York; miles upon miles of the +sea coast is covered with houses, small and large, in every variety of +style, with no trees and quite flat, with a fine sea beyond the sands. +It looked like a scene on a _stage_! We passed some very pretty +bays and creeks, but though the day was bright, the wind blew a gale, +and we could not sit about. We lunched at the railway station, with our +driver sitting at the next table. It is so funny to find everyone at +your elbow, whatever their position may be, but I must say they behave +very well. We returned by train, and I managed to catch a chill, and +have been in bed most of the morning. The day was so lovely that Mr. +Neilson persuaded me to drive with him in his _buggy_, a very +comfortable carriage like a tea cart, and I enjoyed the sweet _Indian +summer_ and the pretty foliage with peeps of the river. In the +afternoon I went with Mr. Neilson to call on his mother and Mrs. +Carpenter, both fine old ladies, and as I said before, _old_ and +young women are well taken care of here. + + +_October 22nd_.--Hotel Brunswick, Boston. We left the kind +Neilsons yesterday, and as Dick and I were not well, we took +drawing-room car seats, which, however, were extremely uncomfortable +wicker chairs, which turned round on a pivot with the least movement and +made one feel sick! So I sat on a hard bench usually occupied by +conductors. This is a fine hotel, and John and E--- came to see me last +night after I was in bed; they seem enjoying themselves and are gay, +seeing lots of scientific folk at Baltimore and _here_ at +_Cambridge_. They intend starting home on the 1st. We are arranging +for berths in the "Oregon," on the 12th, Last night I was surprised to +get a letter from Liza, which had been sent to Evelyn, dated October +5th, telling me that No. 90, O--- G--- was let to Mr. Scott Holland till +8th December! I suppose some letter from Liza has been lost, for I have +never heard a word of it before. The road yesterday was very pretty, +crossing two or three rivers with beautiful colored foliage on their +banks, and some fine towns. I enjoy scenery more and more as I get +older, and feel more _one_ with Nature, and Nature's God; the sense +of the _Eternal_ and _Infinite_ deepens in my heart, and the +grandeur of sky and mountain and river _with God over all_ fills me +with calm and peace. I am not at all well just now, and have to +_starve_ nearly. It is difficult at hotels to get the right kind of +food when one is out of sorts. + + + + +DISTINGUISHED PEOPLE IN TOWN. + + +_To the Editor of the "Home News".--_ + +It may be of some interest to your readers to know that we have at +present in our midst some distinguished people. Not indeed because they +happen to be people of high rank in their own country, but because they +represent names standing preeminent in the fields of science on the one +side of their house, and on the other a name cherished in every +household as the very embodiment of Christian chivalry, that of a +veritable soldier of the cross. + +The Dowager Lady Rayleigh (mother of Lord Rayleigh, the President of the +British Association), is at present the guest of Mr. and Mrs. James +Neilson, at their residence, Woodlawn. She is accompanied by her two +sons, the Honorables Richard and Hedley Stratt. The former is married to +a daughter of Lord Bragbrook, a member of the Cornwallis family. The +Dowager Baroness is a sister of Hedley Vicars, the soldier-missionary of +the Crimea, a name as well known and honoured in the households of +America as those of Great Britain. + +The party came out to attend the Scientific Convention of Canada, and +have since travelled largely through the great West. They express +themselves enthusiastically as to our progress, material as well as +intellectual. + +We take the occasion to congratulate our English cousins upon the +phenomenally fine season which they have selected, and trust that they +may remain long enough to enjoy the loveliness of our American autumn +and Indian summer.--_The Brunswick Daily Home News, Thursday, October +16th, 1884._ + + + + +LETTER No. 10. + + +_October 25th, Newport, at "Madame Robertson's."_ + +Hedley and I and Gibson came here on Thursday, just to see the place, of +which I had heard so much, and to acknowledge the offered civilities of +some of the people there. We left Dick at Boston not very well, and +indeed, _I_ have been quite a wretch lately. Wednesday morning, +E--- brought Professor Pickering, and he asked us to join John and E--- +at his Observatory, and at a party given afterwards by Mrs. Pickering, +so at 3.30 we set off all in a tram, and Professor Pickering met us +about a mile from the house, and a carriage took us to the Observatory, +where we saw curious things, and above all, the crescent moon, through a +powerful telescope, which, oddly enough, I had never seen before. Mrs. +Pickering had a large gathering, and I was introduced to quantities of +people, some very nice looking and English in tone and manner. In this +part of America one would scarcely know that you were not living among +the present generation of English transported across the Atlantic quite +recently; the manners of the _coloured_ servants are _very_ +objectionable, and the porters of the cars quite odious; they march up +and down, even in the more select Pulman cars, slam the doors, awakening +one out of a much needed doze, and throw themselves down on the chairs +and pick their teeth! "Dressed in a little brief authority, they strut +before High Heaven," and make one wish they had never been +_evolved_ but remained altogether _apes_. The _waiters_ +at hotels are often pleasant enough, but the dislike of the white +Americans to domestic service has given a monopoly of this employment to +the coloured people, (shared in many parts by the Irish), and they give +themselves airs accordingly. Dr. Wendel Holmes, of literary celebrity, +was at the Pickerings, and I had a short talk with him, but as every +minute some new introduction came off, I could never have a pleasant +chat with any one. Mrs. Horsford, who was giving a large evening party, +asked us to go there, and the Pickerings wanted me to stay with them +till the time arrived, but I was not equal to this exertion, and we +three returned in trams, which ought to be called _crams_, for they +are invariably in that condition. I was also asked to join John and E--- +with a party going to a place called Beverly, but I decided to come +here, as people were expecting us, and we arrived about ten minutes to +three, and I found cards and notes, asking me to lunch and dine, and +drive, and my landlady said the bell had been ringing all the morning, +and the whole place was in excitement about our coming and its frequent +delays! I got a carriage (it was too late to lunch out or drive), and +left some cards and notes of explanation, and as we were leaving one at +Mrs. Belmont's, she drove up in a well appointed drag, so we got out, +and I found her a fair and light little person, very nice, and +wonderfully young looking. She then drove us in her beautiful park +phaton to Mrs. Bruen's, where there was an afternoon party for my +benefit--such a charming old lady! I told her I had a mother of +eighty-one, and she said "Oh I am more than _that_, but no one +knows my age, and I don't think about it, but am ready when the call +comes." I have heard since, she is past ninety! She is small and thin, +full of life and interest in everything, and her brains as active as +ever,--seems to have known every one of interest. I went there again to +tea-dinner last evening, and we talked about everything and everybody +under Heaven nearly! Her clever daughter and very pretty grand-daughter, +Miss Perkins, have read widely, and our subjects of discussion were +endless. Of course at the afternoon party there were numbers of people, +and they told me they were quite delighted at my arrival, for the place +was very dull now, and it was quite an excitement! Last evening a +Professor Shields was at Mrs. Bruen's, and gave me his book on "Science +and Faith." I have had three invitations to dine _to-day_, which, +of course I had to decline. To go on with yesterday's journal, we +lunched with a Mrs. Bell, and met there Miss Perkins and another nice +young lady, and a queer specimen, a Mr. W---, who travels about the +Continent with eight children, and aggravated me by saying he was more +at home in France than in England. We had several made up dishes, +chiefly fish, but little I could eat! Three children came down +afterwards and were made very much of, as usual; then Mrs. Belmont +called for us in her barouche, and took us a delightful drive by the +sea, but it was very cold, and as I had not brought my only warm wrap to +Newport, I borrowed a seal skin jacket from Mrs. Bell; I find I have +only brought _one_ gown that I could have well done without, but I +should be glad of two or three more things. + +This place is something like _Ryde_, with numbers of villas, which +in summer weather have beautiful lawns and gardens, and are filled with +all the smart people from New York and Boston, &c.; in the season, they +say it is wonderfully pretty and gay, and the few people remaining are +so sorry I did not see Newport in all its glory, but I can guess what it +would be, and I should dislike the kind of life they lead and the +intense frivolity and absence of any kind of occupation, excepting +dressing and flirtation! I think the _cream_ had been left behind. +This morning Professor Shields took us a drive to the two +_Beaches_, two little bays with bathing sands, and then we drove to +Miss Mason, who lives in a very pretty villa with her sister, and is +very rich, and we all walked together to the _Cliff_, where there +is a fashionable promenade, with rocks and sea on one side and green +turf and the villas with their gardens all open on the other. If any one +has a pretty house or place here it is all exposed to the public gaze, +and even _use_, a great deal! We then drove to Mrs. Bruen's, where +Hedley and I lunched. I am surprised to find how _fresh_ the memory +of my brother Hedley still remains in the minds of people, who I thought +would have been too young to have heard of him at the time of his death, +or too old to remember now what they had heard and read. Miss Mason and +her friend spoke about him with such real feeling, and said they had +been _brought up_ on his "memoirs." Mrs. Bruen and her family, and +Professor Shields and many others speak to me as if I was quite a +_friend_, because of my relationship to Hedley! Isn't this curious +after thirty years? They all asked about _Lucy_, and were so +romantic as to be rather distressed that she had ever married; but I +told them what a good man her husband was, and that she was so active +and useful, and that it would have been a great pity if she had been +_lost_ as a wife and mother, &c. Mrs. Bruen, among other things, +spoke of spiritualism, and said she knew from personal experience there +was much truth in it. A relation and intimate friend was a powerful +medium, and many extraordinary things, such as moving of furniture, +(heavy chairs and tables, &c.) and raps, &c., took place under +circumstances which made imposition impossible, there being frequently +no one present but Mrs. Bruen and her two daughters and this lady +medium. A table at the _end_ of the room would suddenly tilt up and +rap. A large dining room table would tilt up, while all the things +arranged for dinner on it would remain immovable--the lady not touching +it. They all seemed to think that spiritualism had a bad influence, and +Mrs. Bruen thinks _bad_ spirits are at work. She is a wonderful old +lady, past ninety, but full of energy and interest, moving large trees +and making alterations constantly in her house and garden. She kissed me +at parting, and I said "I shall tell my mother what a charming old lady +you are," and she said, "give her my kind regards, and tell her how glad +I was to see you." Well, at last with many hand-shakes and all talking +at once, we parted, and I met Gibson at the station, and we returned to +Boston yesterday, October 25th. I am now writing to you on Sunday from +the Hotel Brunswick. Last evening Dick was out when we arrived, with +Evelyn at a concert, for which I had tickets, but I was too tired to go; +this morning we went to hear Dr. P. Brooks, the great preacher who +everyone was raving about last spring in London, (or was it _last_ +year?) his church is like a great _temple_, or public hall, and +cost [pound symbol]180,000. Mr. Winthrop gave us his pew, so we were +well placed, and as he is _very_ rapid and not very loud, the +strain to hear his discourse would have been very great if we had not +been near. "In such an hour as ye think not, the Son of Man cometh." +Christ comes to us in many ways, and through the long ages of the Old +Testament and Christian dispensations he has been continually +_shewing_ Himself,--all great events and promises have partial +fulfilments,--little _milleniums_ have taken pace, and heavenly +Jerusalems have been raised in many a church, in many a gathering of +God's people,--all foreshadowing the _Great Event_ which, will +bring God to man. Then he went on about a _King Idea_, the ruling +object in every profession, in every life; how the _best_ of +_that_ idea,--justice in a lawyer, holiness in a clergyman, and so +on,--was brought home and revealed at times with great power. The +reformations and revivals in the world are the _coming_ in this +sense. He spoke of _unconscious_ love and devotion: that many a +person thinks because they cannot always _feel_ Christ present and +cannot consciously recognize that they act for _Him_ in their daily +life, that they do not love or serve Him; they have given +_themselves_ to Him, but it seems as if He was forgotten while +their daily work and employments _press Him out_. All the time, as +with earthly love and care, the _heart_ is full of Him, and every +now and then strong religious exercises or unusual events excite the +mind; He _comes_ to it in full power, and then they recognize their +Lord. Some of the sermon struck me as too _abstract_, but it was +very suggestive; the music, too, was beautiful. He is a large stout man +with fine well-cut features and beautiful expression. Coming out we met +John and E--- and the Pickerings, who had been elsewhere. I think they +are both tired of America, at least E--- is, and John wants to get to +his work! I am not tired of Americans, but I could not _live_ in +this country; the system political is to me odious, much of the social +system ditto; and the society is so disunited, so patchy, so apparently +without bonds of union or common interests, the life they lead so dull +and without the charms of society at home, and yet there are many as +nice and clever and good as we can find anywhere. I dare say the +missionary and charitable organizations, and educational institutions, +&c., give some interest and occupation to the energetic and pious ones, +but there cannot be much of what _we_ call _parish_ work, or +care of the poor, though there are plenty of poor in the large cities, +and much distress as in older countries. Mrs. Bruen gave me Lowell's +discourse on "The Democracy," which he delivered lately in Birmingham, +and asked me for my candid opinion, without regard to _her_ +politics. So I said, "candid I shall be, and first of all being devoted +to my country's old constitution, the democracy has to me a very +unpleasant sound; by that I mean the Government of the many and from +_below_, and _that_ form of Government to me is highly +objectionable. I think with Carlyle, that God meant the rulers of the +world to be those men best fitted by their education and occupations and +experiences to cope with the immense difficulties which encompass good +government. So you see, I can't agree with much Lowell says, but some +things are very good and I have ventured to mark them," upon which she +handed the paper to Professor Shields, and told him to read it, and tell +her what I had marked at a future time, as she wanted to go on talking! +I found Professor Shields quite agreed with me when discussing the +matter next day, but he said, "_we_ can't help ourselves now, take +care _you_ don't get into the same difficulties." Mrs. Bruen made +me give a resume of all the reasons why the Lords opposed the passing of +the Franchise Bill until the Redistribution Bill appeared. I must stop. +We have been to hear Dr. Brooks again, this time _un_-written and +not so interesting. + + +_Monday, 27th_.--After writing the foregoing yesterday, we went to +dine, and then John called and spent nearly two hours chatting. +_They_ had been to lunch at the Lowell's (relations of the Minister +in England), and leave to-day at one o'clock for New York, and on the +first start in the _Germanica_ for England. I think we are all glad +we are _not_ going to Japan, &c., as I have just written to Mrs. +Neilson, "the old country suits my aged inside the best." I told her I +thought the people about New Brunswick and Boston were especially +delightful. "After this," I added, "you will, perhaps, think me +impertinent if I say they seem to me so English! but after all, you came +from us, and it only shows you have kept the stock pure, while we have +in many cases adopted a spurious Americanism in our ways and speech." +Since I wrote this, Mrs. Perkins, a married daughter of dear Mrs. Bruen, +and a masterful kind of person, has called on me, and upon my making +some such remark as the foregoing, she exclaimed, "I don't like +_that_ at all! Before the war we used to like being taken for +English, but now we _don't_,--How would _you_ like to be taken +for an American?" "Well," I replied, "we don't speak of the +_mother_ being like the _child_; whether you like it or not +you _are_ English by descent, and are our cousins at _least_." +Dick asked her afterwards, "What do you wish to be thought?" "An +American, of course." "Please tell me then how you describe an +_American_?" We could not get her to do so; in fact, nothing +pleases the _set-up_ creatures, for if we judge of them by the +Western or Southern, or even Central Americans, they exclaim at our +injustice, and if we judge by these New England States, they are +indignant at being thought English! This, I believe, is only a +_pretence_, however, and that in their _hearts_ they are fond +of England, and justly proud of the relationship and likeness. Certainly +the New Englanders are conceited and _bumptious_, and in this also +they keep up their British characteristics. They want to lose their +State distinctions (which their patriot Washington was so anxious to +guard), and become _one_ great nation, centralizing everything, +which, indeed, seems the rage everywhere. The Democrats are more +conservative and _really_ liberal, and I trust Cleveland will get +elected as President, for there are many independent Republicans +(_Bolters_, they call them,) who will vote for him, knowing that +Blaine would be a disgrace to their country; he is a plausible rogue, +and respectable people of all opinions almost acknowledge it. Mr. and +Mrs. Winthrop called (I have a nice sitting-room now), and we are to +drive there and lunch with them to-morrow. Mrs. Lowell also called, and +gave us the _Republican_ view of things, being a strong +Anti-Democrat; told us that the Southerners, by arguments of personal +_fear_, made the negroes vote against the Republicans, who they +would otherwise support, according to her story. So much, if true, for +the freedom of American voters! Speaking of sea sickness when crossing +the Atlantic, she said that like (someone else) she thought she should +die the first day, and was afraid she should_n't_ the second day. +Mr. Baillie Hamilton spoke to us at luncheon to-day; he has invented a +new kind of organ, and is perfecting it here, and hopes to make it a +good commercial business in New York, and then go home and marry Lady +Evelyn Campbell. We liked him very much, and wish him all success. Mr. +Perkins called, and we all went to the Archaeological Museum, which is +an entertainment I am unworthy of, as I don't understand Art, china, or +lace, or embroidery, or statuary, and only know what I _like_; but +Mr. Perkins wasted a great deal of valuable information upon me. After +this, we all walked to the common with Mr. Hamilton; he told us that he +had worked for months in a factory at Worcester, near this, in his +_shirt sleeves_, no man knowing him, and he thinks highly of the +American workmen in these parts. They are kind and noble under their too +independent and rough exterior, and that is my own impression; but still +I detest the system which has taught them that respect and politeness +are servile and unmanly, and that domestic service is a disgrace. I had +the pleasure of receiving your letter of 15th October this morning, and +am so glad you can use your hand more. I don't think _any_ of your +letters are missing, but, _without conceit_, mine are of more +value, as those to you are my only journal, and I should forget so many +things if I had not these letters to refer to on returning home. Now I +must finish this. Mr. Hamilton is talking while I am writing, and we +shall see him at New York on the 3rd, Hotel Brunswick. You will probably +only have one more letter from America. I am better, but still rather +queer. + + + + +Letter No. 11. + + +_Wednesday, October 29th, Brunswick Hotel, Boston._ + +I sent you a letter on Monday, and I will now begin another, which may +be the last from these shores. On Tuesday, Mrs. Pickering, the wife of +the astronomer at Cambridge, called early "to be of use," but I was +engaged to lunch out with the Winthrops, so we arranged to meet to-day. +Dick went to play the organ at Advent Church, and was delighted with it, +full of ingenious mechanism. At half-past twelve Hedley and I met him at +the station, and Mr. Perkins met us, and we found Mrs. Winthrop's +carriage at Brooktines. Mr. Perkins is a very accomplished man, lived a +long time in Germany to study music, and in Italy to study Art +generally. He looks very like Mr. Henry Sidgwick, and you would never +guess he was an American. The drive through Brooklines was very pretty; +we saw three large trees of a pure gold colour on the greenest turf in +one place, which had a lovely effect. The Winthrop's house is not +furnished with aesthetic taste, but there were some good pictures. Mr. +Winthrop has been married three times, and the present wife was married +before, so there is rather a confusion of families. _Her_ daughter +only lives with them, and is affected with a sort of St. Vitus's dance, +which made it rather trying for Hedley to take her in to luncheon; but I +never saw anyone who seemed less self-conscious or more at her ease than +this poor girl, and her mother is devoted to her, and shewed us her +picture in great triumph. We had Mr. Packman, the historian of Canada, +at luncheon, and Mr. Richardson, a celebrated architect, formerly a +slave owner in the Southern States, who liberated his slaves before the +war, but was a "rebel," and lost his all, and had to work for his +living. Mr. Packman said he thought Canada was improving wonderfully, +but (as the English when we were there had told us), the French element +multiplies with extraordinary rapidity, and they are a compact body +under the control of their priests, and so carry all political questions +their own way; consequently, but little progress is made in the province +of Quebec. Mr. Packman is a Republican, but is going to vote for the +Democratic candidate, Mr. Cleveland, because he believes him to be an +honest man, and that Blaine would bring the country into difficulties. I +wish some of _our_ Republicans would come _here_ and learn a +lesson of conscientious independence! There were some ladies besides, +but I did not make out their names. At last luncheon was ready, and such +a nasty luncheon! Great oysters, and raw beef, and dried-up partridges, +and the never failing blocks of ice-cream, which _sounds_ very +nice, but one gets tired of it, especially when it makes one ill! +However, the _mental_ food was very good, and Mr. Winthrop, who +knows everyone, spoke to me of Gladstone. He thinks he "is a man of many +words; he knows something of everything, and a good deal of some +things," but on the whole he evidently does _not_ trust his +statemanship. He knew the late Lord Lytton and his wife, and met her +after their quarrel at Roger's, the poet, and thought her a very fine +clever woman, with charms of manner. Lord Lytton he thought very +unpleasant; very deaf, and sensitive about it, and would not use his +trumpet. Macaulay was very _ponderous_, and had a _Niagara_ +flow of language. He always engrossed all conversation, and one got +tired of listening. Mr. Winthrop greatly enjoyed the coming of age of +Lord Cranbourne, at Hatfield, to which he was invited, and he thinks +Lord Salisbury's speaking more interesting than Gladstone's,--that the +House of Lords might make some compromise about the Redistribution Bill, +and that it would be an immense pity for England to lose the three +estates of the realm, and the Established church. "We don't want you to +become a Republic, but keep up the standard of good government for the +rest of the world." Afterwards we went to Mr. Augustus Lowell's, and +there we found all vehement for _Blaine_! I did not agree with +their arguments, but listened to all very meekly and attentively! They +also urged us, as every one else, _not_ to give in to the idea of +universal suffrage, which is the _bane_, they say, of politics in +this country, and causes all their difficulties. After tea we drove home +five miles in Mr. Winthrop's carriage; I like her very much, and she has +more _softness_ of manner, being a Southerner, than the Americans +sometimes have. Wednesday we met Mrs. Pickering at the station, and +after a short railway journey, drove to the beautiful grounds of +_Wellesley College_, founded by a rich American, Mr. Durrant, for +girls over sixteen. Three separate buildings, and a pretty lake, and a +very interesting President, Miss Freeman, about thirty. After seeing the +perfect and numerous arrangements made for the education of the young +women, chemistry-rooms, libraries, statuary, &c., &c., and making +acquaintance with some of the lady professors, we had luncheon with +hundreds of girls; some of these pay less, (the regular payment is +forty-five dollars or pounds, I forget which, a year), and have some +light work to do, _wait_ on us, &c. I can't say the luncheon was +good! the beef hard, and I had only bread and jam! I thought "unless +they have a really good breakfast and dinner, these young women will not +be able to bear the strain on their mental and bodily powers." After +this innocent meal, six young girls, dressed in blue serge and white +costumes, with hats of the shape of undergraduate's, rowed us in two +boats, one painted blue with light oars, the other white, and the girls +rowing it also in white costumes; our blue captain was a very pretty +bright girl, just the type one reads of in novels as the American girl, +(but not a _lady_ in the American view, or our own,) and she +chatted away, and led the others in some pretty songs, while they rested +on their oars, and then we were obliged to hurry away. One of the +professors told me now clever the _captain_ was, and another asked +me to send six copies of Hedley's Memoirs for the Sunday Lending Library +here, with my name, "which they should value so much." We returned to +Cambridge, and kind Mrs. Pickering, who is very good looking and +energetic, took us to Harvard College, and we saw the Memorial Hall, and +interesting Gymnasium, where the young men were practising all kinds of +wonderful exercises. We got home very tired, and at seven o'clock dined +with Mr. and Mrs. Perkins. Mrs. Perkins, like her mother, Mrs. Bruen, +has had great experiences in Spiritualism, and believes it is _not +good_. + + +_Thursday, 30th_.--At Mrs. Pruyn's, _Albany_.--We left Boston +about eleven o'clock, and found her carriage and cart waiting for us at +station, and received a most kind welcome. She is a rather stout woman, +of about forty, who has been very pretty, and has two daughters of +sixteen and eleven, and a stepson who is very delicate. Mrs. Pruyn is +very rich, (everything having been left to her as usual here), and the +house is filled with beautiful gold and silver-plate, and china and +books, and curiosities of all sorts. She seems very energetic and good +in all relations of life. Some people dined,--her father, Judge Parker, +Mr. and Mrs. Kidd, Mr. Ledgard, of old Dutch extraction, which is very +common here and in the States generally, and lives in the country +_Canzenovia_, on the shores of a lake. His family have been there +for generations. + + +_Friday, 31st_.--We all went to see the Capitol, an enormous and +handsome building not yet completed, but what I cared for much more, we +saw the President, or rather I should say, the _candidate_, +Governor Cleveland. He talked with us some minutes, and seemed a simple, +honest kind of man, without vulgarity, but not of society manners or +attractiveness. I wished him success, for which he thanked me cordially. +The poor man is hunted to death by men and meetings of all sorts. So we +did not stay long. I caught cold in this hot place, (they do burn such +fearful _furnaces_ in the houses here), and I could not go out +again. + + +_Saturday_.--Remained in bed till four o'clock to-day, and then +got up to tea, Mrs. Pruyn's sister, Mrs. Corney, such a nice cheerful +woman, with a face something like Lisa's, and Mrs. Evans, with a +handsome niece, came to lunch yesterday, Miss Pruyn drove Hedley in a +nice pony carriage. At dinner we had General and Mrs. Mirvan, another +sister, and Dr. Holms, Librarian in the Capitol. This afternoon two +presents of flowers came for me; they all went to church in the morning, +being All Saints' day. The Evans asked us all to dine, but Mrs. Pruyn +had company at home. Mr. Palmer, son of the man who sculptured "Faith," +so often photographed, and the clergyman of St. Peter's, Dr. +Battershall, who was very pleasant, and talked nicely of Mr. Rainsford, +son of Mr. Rainsford of Halkin street, who has done wonders in New York, +at St. George's. The American religious people are far less narrow +minded and censorious than _we_ are; one sect or party _can_ +see that a great deal of good and successful work is done by another! +Mrs. Pruyn is decidedly ritualistic, but she is quite sorry I shall not +be here next week, to hear Moody and Sankey, who are to hold meetings. A +Miss Lansing dined here, and seems a very touchy American-loving person, +and snubbed the boys if they hinted anything here was not perfection. + + +_Sunday, 2nd_.--Heard a good sermon from Dr. Battershall, at St. +Peter's, on "Seeing _Him_ who is invisible,"--the Apostle's +definition of _faith_. We remained to Holy Communion. He is +evidently fond of ritual, but there was nothing really objectionable. In +the evening we all went to Judge Parker's, and Mrs. Parker, who had not +left her room for some weeks, came down to see me, and is a very nice +old lady; all the daughters and their husbands, and the widower son, +came to heavy tea, a regular custom in the family--then Dick played, and +we sung hymns. + + +_Monday, 3rd_.--Had a delightful drive with Mrs. Pruyn in the +morning, violet mountains (the Caltgills) in the distance, with +brilliant foreground of autumn tinted trees, and golden fields, and a +bright sun shining on all, made a pretty picture; the streets and roads +here are very bad, as generally in America; really one drives over +_boulders_ of stone in some of the streets here, and they say, "it +can't be helped, the municipal corporation have it in their own hands." +Our kind hostess has given me a pretty dusting brush and a book, &c., +and is going to send me a box of biscuits I liked, for the voyage home. +Mrs. Pickering has sent me a pretty little case, with my initials on it. +We left Albany at twenty minutes to three, and much enjoyed the scenery +on the banks of the Hudson _en route_ to New York, but it got dark +before we came to the prettiest part, and we did not get settled in this +Hotel Brunswick till past eight o'clock. + + +_Tuesday, 4th_.--After a better night I awoke, feeling less +uncomfortable, but I have not been at all well lately, and I suppose +that what I want is _rest_ and a different diet. I found dear +Mary's letter, and one from Clara. I shall not hear any more, I suppose, +now, till I meet Edward, &c., at Ampton Hall, on the 20th inst. We all +agree our hearts are "homeward bound" now, and the dear old Grandie +will, please God, welcome us back in health and peace. I have had lots +of visitors this morning and afternoon. To-night we dine with my +Philadelphia friend, Mrs. B. Moore. + +_Later_.--We met Monseigneur Capel at dinner, and Major Recard +Seaver, and a Miss Hooker. Crowds all about the hotel (Fifth Avenue); +electoral returns put up in front of an electric light near it, and +cheers as they appeared to favour one side or another from the dense +crowd. Monseigneur Capel is handsome and agreeable, but he did not +impress me _at all_ as a sincere or saintly person. We had to make +our way home through a great crush, but there was nothing unpleasant. +The Republicans have had it all their own way for more than twenty +years, and have, of _course_, become tyrannical and corrupt, so no +wonder the best of them support Cleveland, who is believed to be honest, +and has proved himself capable and sensible as Governor of New York. The +cheering and groaning went on all night, which was not conducive to +sound slumber. They cheer and groan in _unison_, which has a +curious effect. + + + + +Letter No. 12. + + +_November 7th, Brunswick Hotel, New York._ + +I am not sure whether I wrote up my journal to _this_ date, +Wednesday, 5th. On that morning Hedley and I went by _elevated_ +railway to get money from the bank, and pay for our passages in Cunard +boat, the _Oregon_, on the 12th. After luncheon, Mrs. Belmont +called and took Dick and me a drive in the park, and afterwards to +Tiffany's, the great place for jewellery and such things. Dick went then +to hear Mr. Baillie Hamilton's organ, and Hedley walked to the Millers, +where Mrs. Belmont took us for an afternoon party they had got up for my +benefit. They live in rather a nice flat, which was crowded with people, +and where I got the most delicious chocolate and cream and biscuits! I +was introduced to _everyone_, I think, and talked politics as much +as I could with all the men in turn; even the Republicans strongly +advise our retaining the House of Lords, and _not_ giving universal +suffrage. There were some nice-looking well-dressed people at this +party, and all so kind and anxious we should be pleased. I like the +Americans! they are so good _au fond_, and the women are superior +to the men of the younger generation. After dinner at the hotel, Hedley +spied out Mr. Angus, our host at Montreal, and we had a long chat. The +election is not yet decided, and the Democrats say that the others are +likely to play tricks with the ballot boxes, and they have certainly +delayed electoral returns; having command of ballot boxes, railways, and +telegraphs, they can easily do this, and if people arrive at thinking, +as some do at _home_, that a man's conscience ought only to +consider the importance of keeping _his party_ in power, and ignore +every other consideration, why, what is to stop these kind of things? If +a man's conscience is not to _weigh down_ the advantages of gain to +his _party_ in some matters, why in others? + + +_Thursday, 6th_.--We started as arranged at a quarter to nine to +the Normal School for girls, richly endowed by some citizen, and +entirely free. It was a good walk and we were not lucky in our trams, +and so we arrived rather late at the large hall. Our friend General +Wilson introduced me to the President, who placed me in his chair, and +then I saw before me fifteen hundred young women. They got up singly and +recited interesting quotations and sung, and then marched out to music +in military order. We went to another hall, and saw them exercised, and +they were healthy and graceful performances. These girls come at nine +and stay till two, and are thoroughly well taught. Little ones, too, are +instructed by the elder girls. It is a capital education for the future +mothers and teachers. I suppose most of our girls go to service of that +class! We then went to General Wilson's, and breakfasted on soup, fish, +venison steak, &c. A very agreeable lady, a Southerner, was there, and +as General Wilson is a Republican, we argued, and he found all the party +against his views, but he is used to being crushed, for his wife is a +Democrat. He wanted us to go to see a famous library, but I was too +tired, and when he and the boys returned we went home, and Mr. and Mrs. +Neilson were waiting for us at the hotel. We then started for a very +high building near the river, when we mounted in an elevator, and had a +beautiful view of New York, and could see the splendid river and +water-way in which it rejoices, but everything is spoilt in America for +the sake of the _railways_, and steamers, and wharves, and you see +no pretty houses near the river banks in the cities. Brooklyn Bridge is +fine, and I half hoped to cross it and find out Dr. Penticost, but was +_finished up_, and went home to rest. Then visitors came: Mrs. +Gardener, daughter of Bishop Doane, of Albany, very nice; then we dined +at the Belmont's. The house is gorgeous in embroidery, and pictures, and +statues, and all in very good taste, and more _comfortable_ than +most of their fine houses. The dinner, too, was _very_ good, and I +was the better for the excellent champagne. Mrs. Belmont is a wonderful +little woman, with thick brown hair, and looking about forty, and I have +seen people look as old at thirty. He is short and lame, and rather +plain, but is clever and agreeable, and speaks with a strong foreign +accent. Their son, Mr. Percy Belmont, has been elected three times for +Congress. There was a southern lady there and her husband, Madame +Hoffman, I think, and a Miss Wright. Madame Hoffman is very handsome and +lively. The Belmonts apologized for a small party, because they are in +mourning. They keep up mourning dress and customs tremendously long +here. At first I thought there were a surprising number of widows going +about, but I discovered they were mourning for their aunts or +grandmothers. + +The election was not settled till late last night, and they say the +Republicans are still disputing the returns--and they feared riots in +New York. I must say they seem wonderfully quiet, and I slept till +half-past eight this morning, longer than for weeks past. To-day's +papers announce Lord Londonderry's death and Mr. Fawcett's. How many +people one is interested in have died since we left England in August! + + +_Friday, 9th_.--Mr. Baillie Hamilton took Dick and me to, hear his +organ "_vocalian_," at a church, it was a _walk_ for me, and +the wind was very cold and strong, church very hot, and so I caught +cold. I should die of some lung complaint if I remained here long! We +started for Long Island about three, crossing in a ferry and then by +rail, and found on reaching the station that Mr. Jones and Miss Miller +were unhappy about us, as they could not find us in the train. Carriages +were waiting and we reached Unqua in twenty minutes. A good sized house +(and my bedroom quite splendid) on a bit of grass land, with stumpy +trees scattered anyhow, opposite and close to South Oyster Bay,--which +is divided from the Atlantic by a narrow strip of sand, back premises in +full view, with chickens and turkeys everywhere in full possession! +_All_ the establishment awaited out arrival, I think, in the hall, +including two smart waiters come for the auspicious occasion. Mrs. and +Miss Jones (her sister), and a Miss Jones (niece) with her father who is +a widower and lives there, and Col. Jones a grass widower whose wife +lives in Paris. At dinner I appeared as smart as I could, and I think +made a sensation, judging by the approving looks and smiles cast upon +me! Nearly all the neighbours are Jones's or Loyd Jones's, and some of +them dined. + + +_Saturday, 8th_.--I rested in my room till twelve, and then in a +smart tea gown was _seated_ next Mrs. Jones on a sofa, and was +introduced to each one as they shook hands with her and with me; they +were nearly all strangers to me, but some sat for a few minutes on my +other side and talked, and some asked us to go and see them, but I was +obliged to decline all hospitalities, as we have no time for more. They +were not particularly well dressed _generally_, nor was I struck by +the beauty of the young women. Mrs. Belmont, who is a leader of fashion +in New York, said, "I hope you won't think this is the _best_ of +New York society;" however, I know I have at different times seen the +_best_, and there were many there who represented _la creme de la +creme_. Sir Richard Temple was one of the very few English present, +all were very kind and cordial, and I really felt quite an important +_Personage!_ almost royalty! The luncheon was a terrific scramble, +for waiting is so bad in America, and I got nothing to eat till very +late, and my head ached horribly--after shaking hands with four hundred +people (three hundred came by special train from New York), it was not +much wonder, and I retired to lie down at half-past four, when they all +had gone. + + +_Sunday 9th_.--I was in bed quite ill till past four, and then I +came down and was petted and nursed. Dick went back yesterday afternoon, +and the last we saw of him was hanging on to the back of one of the +numerous carriages, which he caught just in time to reach the train. I +could not go out to tea as arranged with some relations, but the others +did excepting Mrs. and Miss Jones. At half-past seven we had supper +altogether and champagne, &c. Nothing could be kinder than everyone. + + +_Monday, 10th_.--At two, after luncheon, they sent us to the +station (Mr. Jones, such a good nice man, had gone early to New York), +and Miss Miller accompanied us. On arriving at the hotel there was Mrs. +Bidgelow, a very cordial lady who had invited us to West Point; she +seized me and exclaimed, "I am so glad just to have caught you and seen +you once more," and she called me "dear," sometimes, and begged she +might kiss me at parting, and as she was nice looking I didn't mind! +That night being engaged to go with Mrs. Belmont to the opera, I felt, +in spite of the risk, I must do it. So I went well wrapped up and sat +behind in the beautiful large box, so that I could cough without at any +rate being _seen_, and I hope did not much interfere with the +enjoyment of _Patti_ by others, but for myself it was no enjoyment +at all. There were smart and well-dressed people in the opera house, but +_not up_ to _our_ upper "ten thousand" and they talked while +Patti was singing in our box which was close to the stage. + + +_Tuesday_.--Mr. Cleland Burns of the Cunard Company, an old +acquaintance, came to see me with many kind offers to arrange everything +for my comfort, as he and his daughters were going in the _Oregon_, +and also Mr. W. Cunard, and his son; a Mr. Morgan, a banker and friend +of Mrs. Pruyn's, has put off coming unfortunately, for from all accounts +he is much to be liked; he called twice, and the second time I was able +to see him. I remained quiet, but saw many visitors, and many I was +obliged to decline seeing; the _sons_ both went out to dine. + + +_Wednesday, 12th_.--At half-past ten we started with baggage for +ship, got all on board comfortably, found one lady in my cabin, and I +spoke to Mr. Burns, who said he would arrange for me after we had +started; lots of people came to see their friends off. Mr. Neilson, +brought me some beautiful butter for the voyage! Mrs. Pruyn telegraphed +and sent me the biscuits; Mr. Hall, a brother of Mrs. Edlmann, and Mr. +Eyre, friends of Dick's came, and Mr. Carpenter an acquaintance from New +Brunswick, and Mr. Whitehouse, a literary acquaintance. At six o'clock +we started in the fine ship _Oregon_, in which I am now writing. It +was a lovely _Indian_ summer day, _clear_ as we rarely see it +in our Islands, sun shining, and so we saw the splendid Bay of New York +to great advantage, it seemed wonderful to us after our experience going +to Quebec, to see how calm and blue the great Atlantic _could_ be. +Mr. Burns put me into a cabin to myself near _them_, but +unfortunately it was also very near the engines, and after two nights, I +sneaked back to my own berth, and put up with a very quiet little lady +in preference! Mr. Burns placed us at their table, and I have the +benefit of his cheerful company and his lively daughters, as well as the +champagne and good things he shares with us, and we are a very merry +party, and enjoyed ourselves much, until Friday, when the weather +changed. A Mr. Clinton, a fine looking man of six feet six inches, son +of Lord Charles Clinton, a Mr. Dickson, a very gentlemanlike nice +ex-guardsman, a Mr. and Mrs. Drake, who are very musical, and he plays +the flute better than anyone I ever heard, all sat near us, but for two +or three days we had the _old story_, and the waves beat and rolled +us about, and the passengers disappeared like mice to their holes, and +we could not go on deck. + + +LIST OF SALOON PASSENGERS PER R. M. S. "OREGON," (CAPTAIN McMICKAN,) +NEW YORK TO LIVERPOOL, Nov. 12TH, 1884 + + Miss Appleford + Mr. Julian B. Arnold + Mr. J. Fred Ackerman + Mr. Jose d'Aranjo + Mr. and Mrs. Edward Austin + Mr. Alex Aitchinson + Mr. C. D. Armstrong + Rev J. A. Anderson + Capt and Mrs. Bogle, six Children and two Servants + Miss Bogle + Master Bogle + Miss Bodwell + Mr. C. Bayley + Mr. G. Bayley + Mr. Thos. A. Bell + Mr. J. N. Beach + Mr. Arthur A. Brigham + Hon. F. A. K. Bennett + Mr. S. A. Budgett + Mr. J. Cleland Burns + Miss Jean Burns + Miss Grace Burns, and Maid + Rev. Geo. A. Brown + Mr. B. Bonfort + Miss Martha Bonfort + Mr. J. Barnes + Rev. Edwin M. Bliss + Mr. F.D. Blakeslee + Mr. J. Lomas Bullock + Mr. W. Butterworth + Mrs. Mary B. Byrne + Mr. John Blair + Rev. John Boylan + Mr. J. Collins + Mr. Stanley Conner + Mr. Aug. T. Chur + Miss Cranston + Mr. and Mrs. Wm. M. Cranston + Mr. J. P. Croal + Mr. and Mrs. Thomas Russell Crampton + Miss Florence A. Cordis + Miss Nellie R. Cordis + Mr. L. Crules + Mr. F. M. Crick + Mr. and Mrs. Woodie Cook, and Son + Mr. John Cholditch + Mr. Pelham Clinton + Mr. John L. Chapman + Mr. Alex. Campbell + Mr. Wm. Cunard + Mr. Ernst H. Cunard + Mr. Geo. Dixon + Mr. John Dixon + Mr. Frank S. Dougherty + Mr. Chas. Algernon Dougherty + Mr. and Mrs. C. A. Drake + Rev. and Mrs. W. E. Daniel + Miss Annie Davis + Mr. Walter Dickinson + Mr. Ed. M. Denny + Mr. Ed. Henry Denny + Mr. Chas. Edward Denny + Mr. J. H. Douglas-William + Mr. F. J. Douglas-William + Miss R. Emmett + Miss Emmett + Miss Lydia F. Emmett + Mr. and Mrs. Robert Easson, and two Children + Mr. A. S. Emmet + Mr. Frank Evans + Miss Alice Foster + Miss Emma Foster + Mr. and Mrs. J. B. Fiddian + Rev. M. Flynn + Mr. Chandos-Pole-Gell + Mr. C. Gostenhofer + Mr. G. Greiner + Mr. R. Gebhardt + Rev. Miles Grant + Mr. and Mrs. C. W. Gordon, and two Children + Mr. Francis Henry + Mrs. H. J. Hastings + Miss Hastings, and two Maids + Mr. Nigel F. Hatton + Mr. Michael Hughes + Rev. and Mrs. E. P. Hammond + Mr. F. Henriques + Mr. Clarence M. Hyde + Mr. Theodore Haviland + Mr. C. T. Hunter + Mr. F. W. Hutchins + Mr. Henry R. Hoyt + Mr. E. L. Hamilton + Mr. John Hall + Mr. W. Howden + Mr. W. E. Jarratt + Mr. Chas. Johnston + Mr. A. de Journel + Mr. T. O. Jones + Mme. Marie Joseph + Mme. Honorat + Mme. Helena + Miss Kenyon + Mr. Adolph Keitel + Mr. Richard Kibble + Mrs. Kidd + Miss Kidd + Miss B. Kidd + Master Kidd + Mr. Frank Kemp + Mr. and Mrs. A. Ladenborg + Dr. and Mrs. Landis + Mr. W. Liddell + Mr. A. Lindsey + Mr. Edmund Lees + Mr. John Lawrance + Mr. P. Lawrence + Mr. John Leach + Mr. E. Middleton + Dr. Wm. B. Meany + Mr. G. B. Mackintire + Mr. Archd. A. McDonald + Mr. Ch. Mordaunt + Mr. M. L. Marcus + Mr. and Mrs. W. T. Makellar + Mr. Herbert Mead + Mrs. L. Middleton + Mr. W. W. Marks + Mr. M. MacLehose + Mr. Paul Meischer + Mr. Alex. McEwen + Mias Mills + Mr. Robt. J. McClure + Sister Eliza Monica + Mr. Francis More + Mr. A. Bishop Mason + Mr. and Mrs. Benjamin Nichols, and Child + Mr. and Mrs. C. F. Noyes + Mr. Jeffreys Owen + Mr. and Mrs. Henry M. Peyser + Hon. F. Petre + Mr. Richd. C. Perkins + Miss Puleston + Mrs. C. B. Paulmier + Miss Nellie Paulmier + Miss Richardson and Maid + Mr. and Mrs. E. G. Rideoot and Maid + Mr. and Mrs. J. M. Richardson, and Maid + Lady Rayleigh, and Maid + Mr. J. E. Raymond + Mr. J. F. Raymond + Mr. Jno. F. Roy + Captain Hugh Rose + Mr. and Mrs. H. Skerrett Rogers + Mrs. Mary Elizabeth Riches + Miss Marion Riches + Mr. Champion B. Russell + Mr. W. Scott + Mr. Harmon Spruance + Mr. and Mrs. T. J. Schickle + Mr. Frank W. Stokes + Mr. C. F. Schmidt + Mr. Matthew Snoeck + Mr. Philip M. Smith + Mr. O. Streatfeild + Hon. Richd. Strutt + Hon. Hedley V. Strutt + Mr. G. S. Stephen + Rev. Geo. Mure Smith + Mr. I. L. Solomon + Mr. Frank Sartoris + Mr. E. W. Sawyer + Mrs. Trielhard + Mrs. Martin Thouron, and two Sons + Mr. H Trevenen + Mrs. Edwin F Taylor + Mr. Alfred R Tregellas + Mrs. L J Trowbridge + Mr. John A. Talk + Mr. A. Taylor + Mr. A. M Talbot + Mr. Jean Verga + Sister Mary Virginia + Mr. Chas E Willoughby + Mr. Geo Windeler + Miss Minnie Wilson + Miss Walls + Mr. Wm. Ward + Mr. O. M. Warren + Miss Adelaide Wilson + Mr. Thomas Webb + Mr. G. F. Watson + Mr. Gordon Wendell + Mr. A. H. Willey + Mr. A. Woodthorpe + Mr. A. J. Winn + Mr. and Mrs. T. H. Watress + Mr. W. A. Webber + Mr. W. D. Webb + Mrs. E. Wolfe, and Maid + Dr. Wm. N. Wilson + Mrs. Emily Woods + Mr. H. R. Williams + Mr. J. S. Wilson + + +This morning, _Tuesday, 18th_, I awoke after a very "dirty" night, +to find the sun shining, and the sea comparatively calm. Last night we +had a concert; on their requesting some American to lead off the "Star +Spangled Banner," a nice looking elderly man, whom we had called G. O. +M., got up and said perhaps you may be surprised to hear that for one +American who knows "Star Spangled Banner," one hundred and fifty know +"God Save the Queen," upon which we cheered him, and stood up and +_all_ lustily sang "God Save the Queen;" after this dissipation we +added that of an oyster supper and _toddy_! thanks to Mr. Burns. +Here is the Programme of our Concert:-- + + +R.M.S. "OREGON," (Capt. McMickan). + +"OREGONIAN COMPANY" + +A GRAND CONCERT WILL BE GIVEN TO-NIGHT, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 17th, 1884, IN +AID OF THE LIVERPOOL SEAMEN'S ORPHANAGE. PATRONESS.--CLARA LADY +RAYLEIGH. MANAGERS.--SIGNOR CUNARDO & SIGNOR BURNSEASI + +PROGRAMME. + + SONG ........ "Auld Robin Gray" Prima Donna DRAKE. + SONG ...... "For Ever and for Ever" ... Mrs. E. WOLFE. + SONG .............. "Sailing" ... Mr. C. E. WILLOUGHBY. + SOLO FLUTE ............................... Herr DRAKE. + SONG .................................. Miss PULESTON. + SONG .......................... Mr. CHANDOS-POLE-GELL. + SONG ............................. Mr. BRIGHTMAN, A.B. + SONG (Flute Obligato, Herr Drake) . Prima Donna DRAKE. + SONG .......................... Mr. J. SWANSTON WILSON. + STAR SPANGLED BANNER ) + ) .................. The COMPANY. + GOD SAVE THE QUEEN ) + ACCOMPANIST ........... HON. RICHARD STRUTT + +AMERICAN MONEY WILL BE TAKEN. + +CARRIAGES MAY BE ORDERED FOR 9.30 PM + + +My cabin is opposite Dick and Hedley's, and the latter has great jokes +about my treatment of my small lady companion! He says she is frightened +to death of me, and is afraid to come into the cabin until I am safe in +my berth! My love for the sea has received a severe check, though I +think no other sea can be as bad and uninteresting as this tremendous +Atlantic! I have not an idea where you are, but hope it is at +Margaret's, and I shall send this there, as the best chance of your +receiving it soon. I shall post this at Queenstown, when Dick will also +telegraph to Augusta at Ampton, and he has asked her to let you know of +our safety a s far as that. The Americans have been singing in choruses +while I have been writing, practising for a concert. + + +_Tuesday, 18th, eight o'clock p.m._--I hear we shall get to +Queenstown to-morrow morning, about ten o'clock. I have a game of whist +coming on, and there is to be an American concert, "Star Spangled +Banner," and all. Miss Puleston, who I have chaperoned in the +_Oregon_ from New York, is to be left at Queenstown. + + +_Wednesday, 19th, Queenstown._--The coast has been so pretty, and, +of course, quite smooth, compared to what we have been accustomed to of +late. I got up early, and saw all the sacks of letters, six hundred, +from all parts of the world, carried on men's backs to the tugs on +either side of the _Oregon_, and we parted with Miss Puleston and +some others, and now I must stop as this is going to be posted. We +expect to be at Liverpool some time to-night, and shall leave at once +for Ampton, where I look forward to seeing so many of my dear ones. Dick +and I agree that our happiest days have been the day we reached Quebec, +and the day we left New York, both glorious in weather and scenery! + +_Given by Mr. AUGUSTUS CHUR, American, of New York, of German descent, +November 18th, 1884, on "Oregon"_ + + My country, 'tis of thee, + Sweet land of liberty, + Of thee I sing, + Land where my Fathers died. + Land of the Pilgrims' pride, + From every mountain side + Let Freedom ring. + + My native country thee, + Land of the noble free, + Thy name I love, + I love thy rocks and rills, + Thy woods and templed hills, + My heart with rapture thrills + Like that above + + Our Father, GOD, to Thee, + Author of Liberty, + Thy name we sing. + Long may our land be bright + With Freedom's holy light, + Protect us by Thy might + Great God our King + + +_November 19th._--I posted my letter to you at Queenstown. We had +a very pleasant day on deck, and while playing some innocent whist in +the evening, Mr. Burns announced, "We have arrived at Liverpool!" It +seemed so wonderful! We remained at anchor after a very slow, careful +steaming up the river, and it was pretty to watch the lights and the dim +outlines as we passed by. + + +_20th._--After a tremendous bustle at Custom House, where our +boxes were all opened, but mine only just unfastened, Dick and I started +in the train across country for Suffolk. We wished a hearty good-bye to +our fellow-passengers. It was sad to see poor Mrs. Bogle standing with +her seven children among her great deal boxes, _screwed down_ (for +she had only time on leaving Barbadoes to pack hurriedly), and then to +look at the Custom House officials opening them all--thanks to the +dynamite people, who make this precaution necessary. I must confess I +thoroughly enjoyed our quiet smooth journey. All the time we had a +carriage to ourselves (Hedley remained at Liverpool to visit the Woods +at Birkenhead), and we only changed twice, having our luncheon +comfortably in a basket _en route_, and reached Ingham about seven +o'clock, where the carriage was waiting, and found dear Edward, Lisa, +Augusta, and Rosa Paley at Ampton; Clara and Jack had been staying out, +but returned after dinner when they heard of our arrival. It was so +delightful to be among so many dear ones again, and oh! the luxury of a +large comfortable bed, and how thoroughly I enjoyed it, and the quiet +and beauty of Ampton altogether! I hear you are expected in London +to-morrow. I never lost anything during my whole journey, excepting two +things, which were left behind in our railway car at Winnipeg, owing to +that horrid cook hiding them; but on this journey from Liverpool, my +emerald ring, set with diamonds, must have slipped off my finger, and +could not be found, though I telegraphed, &c., at once; this is an +unpleasant episode. + + +_P.S. to my Diary._--I spent a fortnight of complete rest and +quiet at Ampton with dear Clara, &c., and was under medical care most of +the time with a bad cough and derangement of liver; notwithstanding, it +was a happy, peaceful time, and I little thought it was my last visit to +that dear old house! + +On _Saturday, 3rd January_, soon after my return from Weston, when +I had been visiting Lady Camperdown, the three sisters Beatrice, Clara +and Rosa arrived to tell me that the whole house, excepting the study +and kitchen rooms, was burnt to a _shell_ that morning at three +o'clock! A large children's party had been given Friday evening, and +many people had scarcely left at one o'clock, and Clara was not in bed +till half-past one o'clock. The fire broke out at a quarter to three +o'clock, was discovered by a maid visitor, and nearly everyone had to +leave their bedrooms with only the clothes on their backs, and for some +time Clara and Jack, &c., had not time to think of putting more on, +though it was bitterly cold. Thank God, no one was hurt, and as the fire +spread rapidly, and the cold was very great, there was great cause for +thankfulness. Everyone worked well and showed presence of mind, with one +or two exceptions, and Clara and Jack were calm and active throughout, +but it was a dreadful blow and I felt quite _knocked down_, and did +not recover for some time. + +On _Wednesday, 21st January_, I accompanied Clara and Arthur, and +Miss MacCormack to Barton, where Jack joined us from Ampton. + +On _Thursday_ we drove over there, and I had the melancholy +satisfaction of seeing the ruins, and trying to find something for Rosa, +who had lost everything; alas! without success. + + + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The British Association's visit to +Montreal, 1884: Letters, by Clara Rayleigh + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE BRITISH ASSOCIATION'S VISIT *** + +This file should be named 6876.txt or 6876.zip + +Produced by Joshua Hutchinson, Juliet Sutherland, Charles Franks +and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team. +This file was produced from images generously made available +by the Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions. + +Project Gutenberg eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the US +unless a copyright notice is included. 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