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diff --git a/old/68672-h/68672-h.htm b/old/68672-h/68672-h.htm deleted file mode 100644 index 87d8eea..0000000 --- a/old/68672-h/68672-h.htm +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13868 +0,0 @@ -<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" - "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> -<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> - <head> - <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8" /> - <title>The Lives of Celebrated Travellers, Vol. II, by James Augustus St. John.—A Project Gutenberg eBook</title> - <link rel="coverpage" href="images/cover.jpg" /> - <style type="text/css"> - body { margin-left: 8%; margin-right: 10%; } - h1 { text-align: center; font-weight: normal; font-size: 1.4em; } - h2 { text-align: center; font-weight: normal; font-size: 1.2em; } - .pageno { right: 1%; font-size: x-small; background-color: inherit; color: silver; - text-indent: 0em; text-align: right; position: absolute; - border: thin solid silver; padding: .1em .2em; font-style: normal; - font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; } - p { text-indent: 0; margin-top: 0.5em; margin-bottom: 0.5em; text-align: justify; } - .sc { font-variant: small-caps; } - .large { font-size: large; } - .xlarge { font-size: x-large; } - .xxlarge { font-size: xx-large; } - .small { font-size: small; } - .lg-container-b { text-align: center; } - @media handheld { .lg-container-b { clear: both; } } - .linegroup { display: inline-block; text-align: left; } - @media handheld { .linegroup { display: block; margin-left: 1.5em; } } - .linegroup .group { margin: 1em auto; } - .linegroup .line { text-indent: -3em; padding-left: 3em; } - div.linegroup > :first-child { margin-top: 0; } - .linegroup .in16 { padding-left: 11.0em; } - em.gesperrt { font-style: normal; letter-spacing: 0.2em; margin-right: -0.2em; } - @media handheld { em.gesperrt { font-style: italic; letter-spacing: 0; - margin-right: 0;} } - div.pbb { page-break-before: always; } - hr.pb { border: none; border-bottom: thin solid; margin-bottom: 1em; } - @media handheld { hr.pb { display: none; } } - .chapter { clear: both; page-break-before: always; } - .figcenter { clear: both; max-width: 100%; margin: 2em auto; text-align: center; } - .figcenter img { max-width: 100%; height: auto; } - .id001 { width:800px; } - @media handheld { .id001 { margin-left:0%; width:100%; } } - .ig001 { width:100%; } - .table0 { margin: auto; margin-left: 0%; margin-right: 0%; width: 100%; } - .nf-center { text-align: center; } - .nf-center-c0 { text-align: left; margin: 0.5em 0; } - .c000 { margin-top: 1em; } - .c001 { page-break-before: always; margin-top: 4em; } - .c002 { margin-top: 4em; } - .c003 { border: none; border-bottom: thin solid; margin-top: 1em; - margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 27%; width: 45%; margin-right: 28%; } - .c004 { margin-top: 2em; } - .c005 { border: none; border-bottom: thin solid; margin-top: 1em; - margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 27%; width: 45%; margin-right: 28%; - margin-top: 2em; } - .c006 { border: none; border-bottom: thin solid; margin-top: 1em; - margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 25%; width: 50%; margin-right: 25%; - margin-top: 2em; } - .c007 { margin-left: 1.39%; margin-top: 1em; font-size: 85%; } - .c008 { text-align: right; } - .c009 { border: none; border-bottom: thin solid; margin-top: 1em; - margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 25%; width: 50%; margin-right: 25%; - margin-top: 1em; } - .c010 { font-size: 1.2em; } - .c011 { border: none; border-bottom: thin solid; margin-top: 1em; - margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 46%; width: 8%; margin-right: 46%; } - .c012 { page-break-before:auto; margin-top: 4em; } - .c013 { border: none; border-bottom: thin solid; margin-top: 1em; - margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 37%; width: 25%; margin-right: 38%; - margin-top: 2em; } - .c014 { vertical-align: top; text-align: left; text-indent: -1em; - padding-left: 1em; padding-right: 1em; } - .c015 { vertical-align: top; text-align: right; } - .c016 { margin-top: 2em; text-indent: 1em; margin-bottom: 0.5em; } - .c017 { text-indent: 1em; margin-top: 0.5em; margin-bottom: 0.5em; } - .c020 { font-size: 85%; } - body {width:80%; margin:auto; font-size: 14pt; } - h1 {font-size: 2em; } - h2 {font-size: 1.7em; } - .fs90 {font-size:90% } - </style> - </head> -<body> -<p style='text-align:center; font-size:1.2em; font-weight:bold'>The Project Gutenberg eBook of The lives of celebrated travellers, Vol. I. (of 3), by James Augustus St. John</p> -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online -at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you -are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the -country where you are located before using this eBook. -</div> - -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: The lives of celebrated travellers, Vol. I. (of 3)</p> -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: James Augustus St. John</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: August 2, 2022 [eBook #68672]</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</p> - <p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; text-align:left'>Produced by: Turgut Dincer and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive)</p> -<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LIVES OF CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS, VOL. I. (OF 3) ***</div> - -<div class="figcenter id001"> -<img src="images/cover.jpg" alt="" class="ig001" /> -</div> -<div class="pbb"> - <hr class="pb c000" /> -</div> -<div> - <h1 class="c001">The Lives of Celebrated Travellers, Vol. I.</h1> -</div> -<div class="pbb"> - <hr class="pb c002" /> -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pageno" id="Page_1">1</span></p> - -<h2 class="c012">FAMILY LIBRARY.</h2> - -</div> - -<hr class="c003" /> - -<p class="c016"><span class="sc">The</span> publishers of the Family Library, anxious to obtain -and to deserve the favourable opinion of the public, with -pleasure embrace the present opportunity to express their -warm and sincere thanks for the liberal patronage which has -been bestowed upon their undertaking, and their determination -to do all that lies in their power to merit its continuance. -For some time previous to the commencement of the -Family Library, they had entertained thoughts and wishes -of reducing the quantity of merely fictitious writings, which -the reading public had made it their interest to issue from -their press; and they were conscious that this could only -be done by substituting for them works that should be equally -entertaining and more instructive. The difficulty was to -find an adequate supply of books possessing these requisites. -At this time the attention of English philanthropists and -authors was strongly turned to the general dissemination of -useful knowledge by means of popular abridgments, convenient -in form, afforded at low prices, and as much as possible -simplified in style, so as to be accessible as well to the -means as to the comprehension of “the people,” in contradistinction -to the educated and the wealthy. The result has -been the production of numerous collections, embracing well -written works treating of almost every department of art and -science, and, by their simplicity, clearness, and entire freedom -from technicality, exactly calculated to attract and compensate -the attention of the general reader. From these collections, -with additions and improvements, and such alterations -as were necessary to adapt the work to the taste and wants -of the American public, <span class="sc">Harper’s Family Library</span> has -been composed; and it is with pride and pleasure that the -publishers acknowledge the distinguished favour with which -it has been received. The approbation and support that -have already been bestowed upon it are greater than have -ever been conferred upon any work of a similar character -published in the United States; and the sale of every succeeding -volume still demonstrates its continually increasing -popularity. In several instances gentlemen of wealth and -of excellent judgment have been so much pleased with the -character of the Library, that they have purchased numbers -of complete sets as appropriate and valuable gifts to the -families of their less opulent relatives; and others have<span class="pageno" id="Page_2">2</span> -unsolicited, been active in their endeavours to extend its -circulation among their friends and acquaintances. With -these strong inducements to persevere, the publishers are -resolved to prosecute their undertaking with additional zeal, -energy, and circumspection. What has been done they -desire their patrons to consider rather in the light of an experiment, -than a specimen of what they hope and intend to -accomplish: they freely and gratefully acknowledge that -the circulation and popularity of the Family Library are now -such as to justify them in disregarding expense, and to -demand from them every care and every exertion. It shall -be their study to make such arrangements as shall warrant -them in assuring the friends and patrons of the Library that -the forthcoming volumes, instead of decreasing in interest -and value, will be found still more deserving of the support -and approbation of the public than those which have preceded -them.</p> - -<p class="c017">In order to render it thus meritorious, the proprietors -intend incorporating in it hereafter, selections of the best -productions from the various other Libraries and Miscellanies -now publishing in Europe. Several well-known authors -have been engaged to prepare for it also works of an -American character; and <i>the Family Library, when completed, -will include a volume on every useful and interesting -subject</i> not embraced in the other “Libraries” now preparing -by the same publishers. The entire series will be the -production of authors of eminence, who have acquired celebrity -by their literary labours, and whose names, as they -appear in succession, will afford the surest guarantee for the -satisfactory manner in which the subjects will be treated.</p> - -<p class="c017">With these arrangements, the publishers flatter themselves -that they will be able to offer to the American public a work -of unparalleled <i>merit</i> and <i>cheapness</i>, forming a body of literature -which will obtain the praise of having instructed many, -and amused all; and, above every other species of eulogy, -of being fit to be introduced to the domestic circle without -reserve or exception.</p> - -<p class="c016"><span class="sc">The Dramatic Series</span> of the Family Library will consist -principally of the works of those Dramatists who flourished -contemporaneously with Shakspeare, in which all such -passages as are inconsistent with modern delicacy will be -omitted. The number of volumes will be limited, and they -will be bound and numbered in such a manner as to render it -not essentially necessary to obtain them to complete a set of -the Family Library.</p> - -<hr class="c003" /> - -<p><span class="pageno" id="Page_3">3</span></p> - -<div class="c020"> - -<p class="c017">The following opinions, selected from highly respectable Journals, will -enable those who are unacquainted with the Family Library to form an -estimate of its merits. Numerous other notices, equally favourable, and -from sources equally respectable, might be presented if deemed necessary.</p> - -<p class="c017">“The Family Library.—A very excellent, and always entertaining Miscellany.”—<i>Edinburgh -Review, No. 103.</i></p> - -<p class="c017">“The Family Library presents, in a compendious and convenient form, -well-written histories of popular men, kingdoms, sciences, &c. arranged -and edited by able writers, and drawn entirely from the most correct and -accredited authorities. It is, as it professes to be, a Family Library, from -which, at little expense, a household may prepare themselves for a consideration -of those elementary subjects of education and society, without a -due acquaintance with which neither man nor woman has claim to be -well bred, or to take their proper place among those with whom they -abide.”—<i>Charleston Gazette.</i></p> - -<p class="c017">“We have repeatedly borne testimony to the utility of this work. It is -one of the best that has ever been issued from the American press, and -should be in the library of <i>every</i> family desirous of treasuring up useful -knowledge.”—<i>Boston Statesman.</i></p> - -<p class="c017">“The Family Library should be in the hands of every person. Thus -far it has treated of subjects interesting to all, condensed in a perspicuous -and agreeable style.... We have so repeatedly spoken of the merits of the -design of this work, and of the able manner in which it is edited, that on -this occasion we will only repeat our conviction, that it is worthy a place -in every library in the country, and will prove one of the most useful as -it is one of the most interesting publications which has ever issued from -the American press.”—<i>N. Y. Courier & Enquirer.</i></p> - -<p class="c017">“The Family Library is, what its name implies, a collection of various -original works of the best kind, containing reading, useful and interesting -to the family circle. It is neatly printed, and should be in every family -that can afford it—the price being moderate.”—<i>New-England Palladium.</i></p> - -<p class="c017">“The Family Library is, in all respects, a valuable work.”—<i>Pennsylvania -Inquirer.</i></p> - -<p class="c017">“We are pleased to see that the publishers have obtained sufficient encouragement -to continue their valuable Family Library.”—<i>Baltimore Republican.</i></p> - -<p class="c017">“We recommend the whole set of the Family Library as one of the -cheapest means of affording pleasing instruction, and imparting a proper -pride in books, with which we are acquainted.”—<i>Philadelphia U. S. Gazette.</i></p> - -<p class="c017">“It will prove instructing and amusing to all classes. We are pleased -to learn that the works comprising this Library have become, as they -ought to be, quite popular among the heads of Families.”—<i>N. Y. Gazette.</i></p> - -<p class="c017">“It is the duty of every person having a family to put this excellent -Library into the hands of his children.”—<i>N. Y. Mercantile Advertiser.</i></p> - -<p class="c017">“We have so often recommended this enterprising and useful publication -(the Family Library), that we can here only add, that each successive -number appears to confirm its merited popularity.”—<i>N. Y. American.</i></p> - -<p class="c017">“It is so emphatically what it purports to be, that we are anxious to see -it in every family.—It is alike interesting and useful to all classes of -readers.”—<i>Albany Evening Journal.</i></p> - -<p class="c017">“The little volumes of this series truly comport with their title, and are -in themselves a Family Library.”—<i>N. Y. Commercial Advertiser.</i></p> - -<p class="c017">“We have met with no work more interesting and deservedly popular -than this valuable Family Library.”—<i>Monthly Repository.</i></p> - -<p class="c017">“The plan of the Family Library must be acceptable to the American -reading community.”—<i>N. Y. Journal of Commerce.</i></p> - -<p class="c017">“To all portions of the community the entire series may be warmly -recommended.”—<i>American Traveller.</i></p> - -<p class="c017">“It is a delightful publication.”—<i>Truth Teller.</i></p> - -</div> - -<div class="pbb"> - <hr class="pb c004" /> -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pageno" id="Page_4">4</span></p> - -<h2 class="c012">PROSPECTUS<br /> -<span class="small">OF THE</span><br /> -LIBRARY OF SELECT NOVELS.</h2> - -</div> - -<hr class="c003" /> - -<p class="c016"><span class="sc">Fictitious</span> composition is now admitted to form an extensive and important -portion of literature. Well-wrought novels take their rank by the -side of real narratives, and are appealed to as evidence in all questions -concerning man. In them the customs of countries, the transitions and -shades of character, and even the very peculiarities of costume and dialect, -are curiously preserved; and the imperishable spirit that surrounds -and keeps them for the use of successive generations renders the rarities -for ever fresh and green. In them human life is laid down as on a map. -The strong and vivid exhibitions of passion and of character which they -furnish, acquire and maintain the strongest hold upon the curiosity, and, -it may be added, the affections of every class of readers; for not only is -entertainment in all the various moods of tragedy and comedy provided in -their pages, but he who reads them attentively may often obtain, without -the bitterness and danger of experience, that knowledge of his fellow-creatures -which but for such aid could, in the majority of cases, be only -acquired at a period of life too late to turn it to account.</p> - -<p class="c017">This “Library of Select Novels” will embrace none but such as have -received the impress of general approbation, or have been written by -authors of established character; and the publishers hope to receive such -encouragement from the public patronage as will enable them in the -course of time to produce a series of works of uniform appearance, and -including most of the really valuable novels and romances that have been -or shall be issued from the modern English and American press.</p> - -<p class="c017">There is scarcely any question connected with the interests of literature -which has been more thoroughly discussed and investigated than that of -the utility or evil of novel reading. In its favour much may be and has -been said, and it must be admitted that the reasonings of those who believe -novels to be injurious, or at least useless, are not without force and -plausibility. Yet, if the arguments against novels are closely examined, -it will be found that they are more applicable in general to excessive indulgence -in the pleasures afforded by the perusal of fictitious adventures -than to the works themselves; and that the evils which can be justly -ascribed to them arise almost exclusively, not from any peculiar noxious -qualities that can be fairly attributed to novels as a species, but from those -individual works which in their class must be pronounced to be indifferent.</p> - -<p class="c017">But even were it otherwise—were novels of every kind, the good as -well as the bad, the striking and animated not less than the puerile, indeed -liable to the charge of enfeebling or perverting the mind; and were -there no qualities in any which might render them instructive as well as -amusing—the universal acceptation which they have ever received, and -still continue to receive, from all ages and classes of men, would prove -an irresistible incentive to their production. The remonstrances of moralists -and the reasonings of philosophy have ever been, and will still be -found, unavailing against the desire to partake of an enjoyment so attractive. -Men will read novels; and therefore the utmost that wisdom and -philanthropy can do is to cater prudently for the public appetite, and, as it -is hopeless to attempt the exclusion of fictitious writings from the shelves -of the library, to see that they are encumbered with the least possible -number of such as have no other merit than that of novelty.</p> - -<p><span class="pageno" id="Page_5">5</span></p> - -<p class="c017">“The works of our elder dramatists, <i>as hitherto edited</i>, are wholly unfit -to be placed in the hands of young persons, or of females of any age, or -even to be thought of for a moment as furniture for the drawing-room -table, and the parlour-window, or to form the solace of a family circle at -the fireside. What lady will ever confess that she has read and understood -Massinger, or Ford, or even Beaumont and Fletcher? There is -hardly a single piece in any of those authors which does not contain more -abominable passages than the very worst of modern panders would ever -dream of hazarding in print—and there are whole plays in Ford, and in -Beaumont and Fletcher, the very essence and substance of which is, from -beginning to end, one mass of pollution. The works, therefore, of these -immortal men have hitherto been library, not drawing-room books;—and -we have not a doubt, that, down to this moment, they have been carefully -excluded, <i>in toto</i>, from the vast majority of those English houses in which -their divine poetry, if stripped of its deforming accompaniments, would have -been ministering the most effectually to the instruction and delight of our -countrymen, and, above all, of our fair countrywomen.</p> - -<p class="c017">“We welcome, therefore, the appearance of the <i>Dramatic Series</i> of -the <i>Family Library</i> with no ordinary feelings of satisfaction. We are -now sure that, ere many months elapse, the productions of those -distinguished bards—all of them that is worthy of their genius, their -taste, and the acceptation of a moral and refined people—will be -placed within reach of every circle from which their very names have -hitherto been sufficient to exclude them, in a shape such as must command -confidence, and richly reward it. The text will be presented pure -and correct, wherever it is fit to be presented at all—every word and passage -offensive to the modest ear will be omitted; and means adopted, -through the notes, of preserving the sense and story entire, in spite of -these necessary erasures. If this were all, it would be a great deal—but -the editors undertake much more. They will furnish, in their preliminary -notices, and in their notes, clear accounts of the origin, structure, and -object of every piece, and the substance of all that sound criticism has -brought to their illustration, divested, however, of the personal squabbles -and controversies which so heavily and offensively load the bottoms of -the pages in the best existing editions of our dramatic worthies. Lives -of the authors will be given; and if they be all drawn up with the skill -and elegance which mark the Life of Massinger, in the first volume, these -alone will form a standard addition to our biographical literature.”—<i>Literary -Gazette.</i></p> - -<p class="c017">“The early British Drama forms so important a portion of our literature, -that a ‘<i>Family Library</i>’ would be incomplete without it. A formidable -obstacle to the publication of our early plays, however, consists in -the occasional impurity of their dialogue. The editors of the Family -Library have, therefore, judiciously determined on publishing a selection of -old plays, omitting all such passages as are inconsistent with modern -delicacy. The task of separation requires great skill and discretion, but -these qualities we have no apprehension of not finding, in the fullest degree -requisite, in the editors, who, by this purifying process, will perform -a service both to the public and to the authors, whom they will thereby -draw forth from unmerited obscurity.”—<i>Asiatic Journal.</i></p> - -<p class="c017">“The first number of the ‘Dramatic Series’ of this work commences -with the Plays of <span class="sc">Massinger</span>; and the lovers of poetry and the drama -may now, for the first time, possess the works of all the distinguished -writers of the renowned Elizabethan age, at a cost which most pockets -can bear; in a form and style, too, which would recommend them to the -most tasteful book collector. A portrait of Massinger adorns the first -volume; and what little is known of the dramatist is given in a short -account of his life.”—<i>Examiner.</i></p> - -<div class="pbb"> - <hr class="pb c004" /> -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pageno" id="Page_6">6</span></p> - -<h2 class="c012">FAMILY CLASSICAL LIBRARY.</h2> - -</div> - -<hr class="c003" /> - -<p class="c016"><span class="sc">The</span> Publishers have much pleasure in recording -the following testimonials in recommendation of the -Family Classical Library.</p> - -<hr class="c003" /> - -<div class="c020"> - -<p class="c017">“Mr. Valpy has projected a <i>Family Classical Library</i>. The idea is -excellent, and the work cannot fail to be acceptable to youth of both sexes, -as well as to a large portion of the reading community, who have not had -the benefit of a learned education.”—<i>Gentleman’s Magazine, Dec. 1829.</i></p> - -<p class="c017">“We have here the commencement of another undertaking for the more -general distribution of knowledge, and one which, if as well conducted -as we may expect, bids fair to occupy an enlarged station in our immediate -literature. The volume before us is a specimen well calculated to -recommend what are to follow. Leland’s Demosthenes is an excellent -work.”—<i>Lit. Gazette.</i></p> - -<p class="c017">“This work will be received with great gratification by every man who -knows the value of classical knowledge. All that we call purity of taste, -vigour of style, and force of thought, has either been taught to the modern -world by the study of the classics, or has been guided and restrained by -those illustrious models. To extend the knowledge of such works is to -do a public service.”—<i>Court Journal.</i></p> - -<p class="c017">“The <i>Family Classical Library</i> is another of those cheap, useful, and -elegant works, which we lately spoke of as forming an era in our publishing -history.”—<i>Spectator.</i></p> - -<p class="c017">“The present era seems destined to be honourably distinguished in -literary history by the high character of the works to which it is successively -giving birth. Proudly independent of the fleeting taste of the day, -they boast substantial worth which can never be disregarded; they put -forth a claim to permanent estimation. The <i>Family Classical Library</i> is -a noble undertaking, which the name of the editor assures us will be executed -in a style worthy of the great originals.”—<i>Morning Post.</i></p> - -<p class="c017">“This is a very promising speculation; and as the taste of the day runs -just now very strongly in favour of such Miscellanies, we doubt not it -will meet with proportionate success. It needs no adventitious aid, however -influential; it has quite sufficient merit to enable it to stand on -its own foundation, and will doubtless assume a lofty grade in public -favour.”—<i>Sun.</i></p> - -<p class="c017">“This work, published at a low price, is beautifully got up. Though -to profess to be content with translations of the Classics has been denounced -as ‘the thin disguise of indolence,’ there are thousands who -have no leisure for studying the dead languages, who would yet like to -know what was thought and said by the sages and poets of antiquity. -To them this work will be a treasure.”—<i>Sunday Times.</i></p> - -<p class="c017">“This design, which is to communicate a knowledge of the most -esteemed authors of Greece and Rome, by the most approved translations, -to those from whom their treasures, without such assistance, would be -hidden, must surely be approved by every friend of literature, by every -lover of mankind. We shall only say of the first volume, that as the -execution well accords with the design, it must command general approbation.”—<i>The -Observer.</i></p> - -<p class="c017">“We see no reason why this work should not find its way into the -boudoir of the lady, as well as into the library of the learned. It is cheap, -portable, and altogether a work which may safely be placed in the hands -of persons of both sexes.”—<i>Weekly Free Press.</i></p> - -</div> - -<div class="pbb"> - <hr class="pb c004" /> -</div> - -<p><span class="pageno" id="Page_7">7</span></p> - -<div class="nf-center-c0"> -<div class="nf-center c002"> - <div><span class="xlarge"><i>Harper’s Stereotype Edition.</i></span></div> - </div> -</div> - -<hr class="c003" /> - -<div class="nf-center-c0"> -<div class="nf-center c004"> - <div>THE</div> - <div class="c000"><span class="xxlarge"><em class="gesperrt">LIVES</em></span></div> - <div class="c000">OF</div> - <div class="c000"><span class="xxlarge">CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS.</span></div> - </div> -</div> - -<hr class="c005" /> - -<div class="nf-center-c0"> -<div class="nf-center c004"> - <div>BY</div> - <div class="c000"><span class="large">JAMES AUGUSTUS <span class="sc">St.</span> JOHN.</span></div> - </div> -</div> - -<hr class="c006" /> - -<div class="lg-container-b c007"> -<div class="linegroup"> - <div class="group"> - <div class="line">Wand’ring from clime to clime, observant stray’d,</div> - <div class="line">Their manners noted and their states survey’d.</div> - </div> - <div class="group"> - <div class="c008"><span class="sc">Pope’s Homer.</span></div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<hr class="c009" /> - -<div class="nf-center-c0"> -<div class="nf-center c004"> - <div>IN THREE VOLUMES.</div> - <div class="c000"><span class="xlarge">VOL. I.</span></div> - <div class="c000">══════════════</div> - <div class="c000"><span class="c010">NEW-YORK:</span></div> - <div class="c000"><span class="large">PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BY J. & J. HARPER,</span></div> - <div class="c000"><span class="small">NO. 82 CLIFF-STREET</span>,</div> - <div class="c000"><span class="small">AND SOLD BY THE PRINCIPAL BOOKSELLERS THROUGHOUT</span></div> - <div><span class="small">THE UNITED STATES.</span></div> - </div> -</div> - -<hr class='c011' /> - -<div class="nf-center-c0"> - <div class="nf-center"> - <div>1832.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pageno" id="Page_8">8</span></p> - -<div class="pbb"> - <hr class="pb c004" /> -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pageno" id="Page_9">9</span></p> - -<h2 class="c012">ADVERTISEMENT.</h2> - -</div> - -<p class="c017">Dr. Southey, speaking of the works of travellers, -very justly remarks, that “of such books we cannot -have too many!” and adds, with equal truth, that -“because they contribute to the instruction of the -learned, their reputation suffers no diminution by -the course of time, but that age rather enhances -their value.” Every man, indeed, whose comprehensive -mind enables him to sympathize with human -nature under all its various aspects, and to detect—through -the endless disguises superinduced by -strange religions, policies, manners, or climate—passions, -weaknesses, and virtues akin to his own, -must peruse the relations of veracious travellers -with peculiar satisfaction and delight. But there -is another point of view in which the labours of this -class of writers may be contemplated with advantage. -Having made use of them as a species of -telescope for bringing remote scenes near our intellectual -eye, it may, perhaps, be of considerable -utility to observe the effect of so many dissimilar -and unusual objects, as necessarily present themselves -to travellers, upon the mind, character, and -happiness of the individuals who beheld them. This, -in fact, is the business of the biographer; and it is -what I have endeavoured to perform, to the best of -my abilities, in the following “Lives.”</p> - -<p class="c017">By accompanying the adventurer through his distant -enterprises, often far more bold and useful than -any undertaken by king or conqueror, we insensibly<span class="pageno" id="Page_10">10</span> -acquire, unless repelled by some base or immoral -quality, an affection, as it were, for his person, and -learn to regard his toils and dangers amid “antres -vast and deserts idle,” as something which concerns -us nearly. And when the series of his wanderings -in foreign realms are at an end, our curiosity, unwilling -to forsake an agreeable track, still pursues -him in his return to his home, longs to contemplate -him when placed once more in the ordinary ranks -of society, and would fain be informed of the remainder -of his tale. By some such mental process -as this I was led to inquire into the lives of celebrated -travellers; and though, in many instances, I -have been very far from obtaining all the information -I desired, my researches, I trust, will neither -be considered discreditable to myself nor useless to -the public.</p> - -<p class="c017">In arranging the materials of my work, I have -adopted the order of time for many reasons; but -chiefly because, by this means, though pursuing the -adventures of individuals, a kind of general history -of travels is produced, which, with some necessary -breaks, brings down the subject from the middle of -the thirteenth century, the era of Marco Polo, to -our own times. The early part of this period is -principally occupied with the enterprises of foreigners, -because our countrymen had not then begun -to distinguish themselves greatly in this department -of literature. As we advance, however, the genius -and courage of Englishmen will command a large -share of our attention; and from a feeling which, -perhaps, is more than pardonable, I look forward to -the execution of that part of my undertaking with -more than ordinary pride and pleasure.</p> - -<p class="c008"><span class="sc">J. A. St. John.</span></p> - -<p class="c017">Paris, 1831.</p> - -<div class="pbb"> - <hr class="pb c004" /> -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pageno" id="Page_11">11</span></p> - -<h2 class="c012"><em class="gesperrt">CONTENTS</em>.</h2> - -</div> - -<hr class="c013" /> - -<div class="nf-center-c0"> -<div class="nf-center c004"> - <div><span class="xlarge"><em class="gesperrt">WILLIAM DE RUBRUQUIS</em>.</span></div> - <div class="c000">Born 1220.—Died about 1293, or 1294.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class="fs90"> - -<table class="table0" summary=""> -<colgroup> -<col width="90%" /> -<col width="9%" /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class="c014">Born in Brabant—Travels into Egypt—Despatched by St. Louis on a -mission into Tartary—Constantinople—Black Sea—Traverses the -Crimea—Imagines himself in a new world—Moving city—Extreme -ugliness of the Tartars—Desert of Kipjak—Tombs of the Comans—Crosses -the Tanais—Travels on foot—Camp of Sartak—Goes to court—Religious -procession—Departs—Reaches the camp of Batou—Is -extremely terrified—Makes a speech to the khan—Is commanded to -advance farther into Tartary—Suffers extraordinary privations—Travels -four months over the steppes of Tartary—Miraculous old age -of the pope—Wild asses—Distant view of the Caucasus—Orrighers—Point -of prayer—Buddhists—Court of Mangou Khan—Audience—Appearance -and behaviour of the emperor—Karakorum—Disputes -with the idolaters—Golden fountain—Returns to Syria</td> - <td class="c015"><a href="#WILLIAM_DE_RUBRUQUIS">Page 17</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -</div> - -<div class="nf-center-c0"> -<div class="nf-center c004"> - <div><span class="xlarge"><em class="gesperrt">MARCO POLO</em>.</span></div> - <div class="c000">Born 1250.—Died 1324.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class="fs90"> - -<table class="table0" summary=""> -<colgroup> -<col width="90%" /> -<col width="9%" /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class="c014">Departure of the father and uncle of Marco from Venice—Bulgaria—Wanders -through Turkestan—Sanguinary wars—Cross the Gihon -and remain three years at Bokhāra—Travels to Cathay—Cambalu—Honourably -received by Kublai Khan—Return as the khan’s ambassador -to Italy—Family misfortunes—Return with Marco into Asia—Armenia—Persia—The -assassins—City of Balkh—Falls ill on the -road—Is detained a whole year in the province of Balashghan—Curious -productions of the country, and the singular manners of -its inhabitants—Khoten—Desert of Lop—Wonders of this desert—Shatcheu -and Khamil—Barbarous custom—Chinchintalas—Salamander -linen—Desert of Shomo—Enormous cattle—Musk deer—Beautiful -cranes—Stupendous palace of Chandu—Arrives at Cambalu—Acquires -the language of the country, and is made an ambassador—Description -of Kublai Khan—Imperial harem—Nursery of beauty—Palace -of Cambalu—Pretension of the Chinese to the invention of -artillery—Magnificence of the khan—Paper-money—Roads—Post-horses—Religion—Fertility—Tibet—Bloody -footsteps of war—Wild -beasts—Abominable manners—Strange clothing and money—The -Dalai Lama—Murder of travellers—Teeth plated with gold—Preposterous -custom—Magical physicians—Southern China—Emperor Fanfur—Anecdote—Prodigious -city—Extremes of wealth and<span class="pageno" id="Page_12">12</span> -poverty—Hackney-coaches and public gardens—Manufacture of porcelain—Returns -to Italy—The Polos are forgotten by their relatives—Curious -mode of proving their identity—Marco taken prisoner by the Genoese—Writes -his travels in captivity—Returns to Venice—Dies</td> - <td class="c015"><a href="#MARCO_POLO">30</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -</div> - -<div class="nf-center-c0"> -<div class="nf-center c004"> - <div><span class="xlarge"><em class="gesperrt">IBN BATŪTA</em>.</span></div> - <div class="c000">Born about 1300.—Died after 1353.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class="fs90"> - -<table class="table0" summary=""> -<colgroup> -<col width="90%" /> -<col width="9%" /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class="c014">Commences his travels—Romantic character—Arrives in Egypt—Kalenders—Sweetness -of the Nile—Anecdote of an Arabian poet—Prophecy—Visits -Palestine—Mount Lebanon—Visits Mecca—Miracles—Gratitude -of Ibn Batūta—Patron of Mariners—Visits Yemen—Fish-eating -cattle—Use of the Betel-leaf—Pearl-divers—Curious brotherhood—Krim -Tartary—Land of darkness—Greek sultana—Mawaradnahr—Enters -India—Arrives at Delhi—Loses a daughter, and is made -a judge—Is extravagant in prosperity—Falls into disgrace, and is -near losing his head—Becomes a fakeer—Is restored to favour—Sent -upon an embassy to China—Is taken prisoner—Escapes—Mysterious -adventure—Travels to Malabar—Is reduced to beggary—Turn of -fortune—Visits the Maldive Islands—Marries four wives—New version -of the story of Andromeda—Sees a spectre ship—Visits Ceylon—Adam’s -Peak—Wonderful rose, with the name of God upon it—Sails -for Maabar—Is taken by pirates—Visits his son in the Maldives—Sails -for Sumatra, and China—Paper-money—Meets with an old -friend—The desire of revisiting home awakened—Returns to Tangiers—Visits -Spain—Crosses the desert of Sahara—Visits Timbuctoo—Settles -at Fez</td> - <td class="c015"><a href="#IBN_BATUTA">69</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -</div> - -<div class="nf-center-c0"> -<div class="nf-center c004"> - <div><span class="xlarge"><em class="gesperrt">LEO AFRICANUS</em>.</span></div> - <div class="c000">Born about 1486.—Died after 1540.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class="fs90"> - -<table class="table0" summary=""> -<colgroup> -<col width="90%" /> -<col width="9%" /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class="c014">Born at Grenada—Educated at Fez—Visits Timbuctoo—Anecdote of a -Mohammedan general—Adventures among the snowy wilds of Mount -Atlas—Visits the Bedouins of Northern Africa—Resides in the kingdom -of Morocco—People living in baskets—Unknown ruins in Mount -Dedas—Troglodytes—Travels with a Moorish chief—Visits the city -of Murderers—Adventure with lions—Clouds of locusts—Is nearly -stung to death by fleas—Beautiful scenery—Tradition concerning the -prophet Jonah—Is engaged in a whimsical adventure among the -mountains—Jew artisans—Hospitality—Witnesses a bloody battle—Delightful -solitude—Romantic lake—Fishing and hunting—Arabic -poetry—Excursions through Fez—Ruins of Rabat—Visits Telemsan -and Algiers—Desert—Antelopes—Elegant little city—City of Telemsan—History -of a Mohammedan saint—Description of Algiers—Barbarossa -and Charles V.—City of Kosantina—Ancient ruins and gardens—City -mentioned in Paradise Lost—Carthage—Segelmessa—Crosses -the Great Desert—Tremendous desolation—Story of two -merchants—Description of Timbuctoo—Women—Costume—Course -of the Niger—Bornou—Nubia—Curious poison—Egypt—Ruins of -Thebes—Cairo—Crime of a Mohammedan saint—Dancing camels and -asses—Curious anecdote of a mountebank—Ladies of Cairo—Is taken -by pirates, and sold as a slave—Pope Leo X.—Is converted to Christianity—Resides -in Italy, and writes his “Description of Africa”—Date -of his death unknown</td> - <td class="c015"><a href="#LEO_AFRICANUS">109</a><span class="pageno" id="Page_13">13</span></td> - </tr> -</table> - -</div> - -<div class="nf-center-c0"> -<div class="nf-center c004"> - <div><span class="xlarge"><em class="gesperrt">PIETRO DELLA VALLE</em>.</span></div> - <div class="c000">Born 1586.—Died 1652.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class="fs90"> - -<table class="table0" summary=""> -<colgroup> -<col width="90%" /> -<col width="9%" /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class="c014">Born at Rome—Education and early life—Sails from Venice—Constantinople—Plain -of Troy—Manuscript of Livy—The plague—Visits -Egypt—Mount Sinai—Palestine—Crosses the northern desert of Arabia—An -Assyrian beauty—Falls in love from the description of a -fellow-traveller—Arrives at Bagdad—Tragical event—Visits the ruins -of Babylon—Marries—Beauty of his wife—Departure from Bagdad—Mountains -of Kurdistan—Enters Persia—Ispahan—Wishes to make -a crusade against the Turks—Travels, with his harem, towards the -Caspian Sea—Tragical adventure of Signora della Valle—Arrives at -Mazenderan—Enters into the service of the shah, and is admitted to -an audience—Expedition against the Turks—Pietro does not engage -in the action—Disgusted with war—Returns to Ispahan—Domestic -misfortunes—Visits the shores of the Persian Gulf—Sickness and -Maani—Pietro embalms the body of his wife, and carries it about -with him through all his travels—Sails for India, accompanied by a -young orphan Georgian girl—Arrives at Surat—Cambay—Ahmedabad—Goa—Witnesses -a suttee—Returns to the Persian Gulf—Muskat—Is -robbed in the desert, but preserves the body of his wife—Arrives -in Italy—Magnificent funeral and tomb of Maani—Marries again—Dies -at Rome</td> - <td class="c015"><a href="#PIETRO_DELLA_VALLE">149</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -</div> - -<div class="nf-center-c0"> -<div class="nf-center c004"> - <div><span class="xlarge"><em class="gesperrt">JEAN BAPTISTE TAVERNIER</em>.</span></div> - <div class="c000">Born 1602.—Died 1685, or 1686.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class="fs90"> - -<table class="table0" summary=""> -<colgroup> -<col width="90%" /> -<col width="9%" /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class="c014">Native of Antwerp—Commences his adventures at a very early age—Visits -England and Germany—Becomes page to a viceroy of Hungary—Visits -Italy—Narrowly escapes death at the siege of Mantua—Ratisbon—Imperial -coronation—Tragical event—Turkey—Persia—Hindostan—Anecdote -of a Mogul prince—Visits the diamond mines—Vast -temple—Dancing girls—Mines of Raolconda in the Carnatic—Mode -of digging out the diamonds—Mode of trafficking in jewels—Boy -merchants—Anecdote of a Banyan—Receives alarming news -from Golconda—Returns—Finds his property secure—Mines of Colour—Sixty -thousand persons employed in these mines—Mines of—Sumbhulpoor—Magical -jugglers—Miraculous tree—Extraordinary -accident at Ahmedabad—Arrival at Delhi—Palace and jewels of the -Great Mogul—Crosses the Ganges—Visits the city of Benares—Islands -of the Indian Ocean—Returns to France—Marries—Sets up -an expensive establishment—Honoured with letters of nobility—Purchases -a barony—Dissipates his fortune, and sets out once more for -the East, at the age of eighty-three—Is lost upon the Volga</td> - <td class="c015"><a href="#JEAN_BAPTISTE_TAVERNIER">180</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -</div> - -<div class="nf-center-c0"> -<div class="nf-center c004"> - <div><span class="xlarge"><em class="gesperrt">FRANÇOIS BERNIER</em>.</span></div> - <div class="c000">Born about 1624.—Died 1688.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class="fs90"> - -<table class="table0" summary=""> -<colgroup> -<col width="90%" /> -<col width="9%" /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class="c014">A native of Angers—Educated for the medical profession—Visits Syria -and Egypt—Is ill of the plague at Rosetta—Anecdote of an Arab servant—Visits -Mount Sinai—Sails down the Red Sea—Mokha—King -of Abyssinia—Bargains with a father for his own son—Sails for India—Becomes -physician to the Great Mogul—Is in the train of Dara,<span class="pageno" id="Page_14">14</span> -brother to Aurungzebe, during his disastrous flight towards the Indus—Is -deserted by the prince—Falls among banditti—Exerts the powers -of Esculapius among the barbarians—Escapes—Proceeds to Delhi—Becomes -physician to the favourite of Aurungzebe—Converses with -the ambassadors of the Usbecks, and dines on horse-flesh—Anecdote -of a Tartar girl—Description of Delhi—Mussulman music—Enters -the imperial harem blindfold—Description of the imperial palace—The -hall of audience, and the peacock throne—Tomb of Nourmahal—The -emperor departs for Cashmere—Bernier travels in the imperial -train—Plains of Lahore—Magnificent style of travelling—Tremendous -heat—Enters Cashmere—Description of this earthly paradise—Shawls—Beautiful -cascades—Fearful accident—Returns to Delhi—Extravagant -flattery—Effects of an eclipse of the sun—Visits Bengal—Sails -up the Sunderbund—Fireflies—Lunar rainbows—Returns to France, -and publishes his travels—Character</td> - <td class="c015"><a href="#FRANCOIS_BERNIER">205</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -</div> - -<div class="nf-center-c0"> -<div class="nf-center c004"> - <div><span class="xlarge"><em class="gesperrt">SIR JOHN CHARDIN</em>.</span></div> - <div class="c000">Born 1643.—Died 1713.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class="fs90"> - -<table class="table0" summary=""> -<colgroup> -<col width="90%" /> -<col width="9%" /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class="c014">Born at Paris—Son of a Protestant jeweller—Visits Persia and Hindostan—Returns -to France—Publishes his History of the Coronation -of Solyman III.—Again departs for Persia—Visits Constantinople—Sails -up the Black Sea—Caviare—Salt marshes—Beautiful slaves—Arrives -in Mingrelia—Tremendous anarchy—Is surrounded by dangers—Arrives -at a convent of Italian monks—Is visited by a princess, -and menaced with a wife—Buries his wealth—The monastery attacked -and rifled—His treasures escape—Narrowly escapes with life—Leaves -his wealth buried in the ground, and sets out for Georgia—Returns -into Mingrelia with a monk, and the property is at length -withdrawn—Crosses the Caucasus—Traverses Georgia—Armenia—Travels -through the Orion—Arrives at Eryvan—Is outwitted by a -Persian khan—Traverses the plains of ancient Media—Druidical -monuments—Ruins of Rhe, the Rhages of the Scriptures—Kom—An -accident—Arrives at Ispahan—Commences his negotiations with the -court for the disposal of his jewels—Modes of dealing in Persia—Character -of Sheïkh Ali Khan—Anecdote of the shah—Is introduced -to the vizier, and engaged in a long series of disputes with the nazir -respecting the value of his jewels—Curious mode of transacting business—Is -flattered, abused, and cheated by the nazir—Visits the ruins -of Persepolis—Description of the subterranean passages of the palace—Arrives -at Bander-Abassi—Is seized with the gulf fever—Reduced -to the brink of death—Flies from the pestilence—Is cured by a Persian -physician—Extraordinary method of treating fever—Visits the -court—Is presented to the shah—Returns to Europe—Selects England -for his future country—Is knighted by Charles II., and sent as envoy -to Holland—Writes his travels—Dies in the neighborhood of London</td> - <td class="c015"><a href="#SIR_JOHN_CHARDIN">233</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -</div> - -<div class="nf-center-c0"> -<div class="nf-center c004"> - <div><span class="xlarge"><em class="gesperrt">ENGELBERT KÆMPFER</em>.</span></div> - <div class="c000">Born 1651.—Died 1716.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class="fs90"> - -<table class="table0" summary=""> -<colgroup> -<col width="90%" /> -<col width="9%" /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class="c014">A native of Westphalia—Education and early Life—Becomes secretary -to the Swedish Embassy to Persia—Visits Russia—Crosses the Caspian -Sea—Visits the city of Baku—Curious adventure—Visits the<span class="pageno" id="Page_15">15</span> -promontory of Okesra—Burning field—Fire worshippers—Curious -experiment—Fountains of white naphtha—Hall of naphtha—Arrives -at Ispahan—Visits the ruins of Persepolis—Description of Shiraz—Tombs -of Hafiz and Saadi—Resides at Bander-Abassi—Is attacked by -the endemic fever—Recovers—Retires to the mountains of Laristân—Mountains -of Bonna—Serpent—Chameleons—Animal in whose -stomach the bezoar is found—Sails for India—Arrives at Batavia—Visits -Siam—Sails along the coast of China—Strange birds—Storms—Arrival -in Japan—Journey to Jeddo—Audience of the emperor—Manners -and customs of the Japanese—Returns to Europe—Marries—Is -unfortunate—Publishes his “Amœnitates”—Dies—His manuscripts -published by Sir Hans Sloane</td> - <td class="c015"><a href="#ENGELBERT_KAEMPFER">271</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -</div> - -<div class="nf-center-c0"> -<div class="nf-center c004"> - <div><span class="xlarge"><em class="gesperrt">HENRY MAUNDRELL</em>.</span></div> - </div> -</div> - -<div class="fs90"> - -<table class="table0" summary=""> -<colgroup> -<col width="90%" /> -<col width="9%" /> -</colgroup> - <tr> - <td class="c014">Appointed chaplain to the English factory at Aleppo—Sets out on a -pilgrimage to Jerusalem—Crosses the Orontes—Wretched village—Inhospitable -villagers—Takes refuge from a tempest in a Mussulman -tomb—Distant view of Latichen—Syrian worshippers of Venus—Tripoli—River -of Adonis—Maronite convents—Palace and gardens -of Fakreddin—Sidon—Cisterns of Solomon—Mount Carmel—Plains -of Esdraelon—Dews of Hermon—Jerusalem—Jericho—The Jordan—The -Dead Sea—Apples of Sodom—Bethlehem—Mount Lebanon—Damascus—Baalbec—The -cedars—Returns to Aleppo—Conclusion</td> - <td class="c015"><a href="#HENRY_MAUNDRELL">305</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -</div> - -<p><span class="pageno" id="Page_16">16</span></p> - -<div class="pbb"> - <hr class="pb c004" /> -</div> - -<div class="nf-center-c0"> -<div class="nf-center c002"> - <div><span class="pageno" id="Page_17">17</span><span class="xlarge"><em class="gesperrt">THE LIVES</em></span></div> - <div class="c000">OF</div> - <div class="c000"><span class="xxlarge">CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS.</span></div> - </div> -</div> - -<hr class="c006" /> -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="c012" id="WILLIAM_DE_RUBRUQUIS">WILLIAM DE RUBRUQUIS.</h2> -</div> - -<div class="nf-center-c0"> -<div class="nf-center c004"> - <div>Born about 1220.—Died after 1293.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class="c016"><span class="sc">The</span> conquests of Genghis Khan and his successors, -extending from the Amoor and the Chinese -Wall to the confines of Poland and Hungary, having -excited extraordinary terror in the minds of the -Christian princes of Europe, many of them, and particularly -the pope and the King of France, despatched -ambassadors into Tartary, rather as spies to observe -the strength and weakness of the country, and the -real character of its inhabitants, than for any genuine -diplomatic purposes. Innocent IV. commenced -those anomalous negotiations, by sending, in 1246 -and 1247, ambassadors into Mongolia to the Great -Khan, as well as to his lieutenant in Persia. These -ambassadors, as might be expected, were monks, -religious men being in those times almost the only -persons possessing any talent for observation, or -the knowledge necessary to record their observations -for the benefit of those who sent them. The first -embassy from the pope terminated unsuccessfully, -as did likewise the maiden effort of St. Louis; but -this pious monarch, whose zeal overpowered his -good sense, still imagined that the conversion of the -Great Khan, which formed an important part of his<span class="pageno" id="Page_18">18</span> -design, was far from being impracticable; and upon -the idle rumour that one of his nephews had embraced -Christianity, and thus opened a way for the -Gospel into his dominions, St. Louis in 1253 despatched -a second mission into Tartary, at the head -of which was William de Rubruquis.</p> - -<p class="c017">This celebrated monk was a native of Brabant, -who, having travelled through France, and several -other countries of Europe, had passed over, perhaps -with the army of St. Louis, into Egypt, from whence -he had proceeded to the Holy Land. Of this part -of his travels no account remains. When intrusted, -however, with the mission into Tartary, he repaired -to Constantinople, whence, having publicly offered -up his prayers to God in the church of St. Sophia, -he departed on the 7th of May, with his companions, -and moving along the southern shore of the Black -Sea, arrived at Sinopia, where he embarked for the -Crimea. From an opinion that any indignities -which might be offered to Rubruquis would compromise -the dignity of the king, it had been agreed -between Louis and his agent that, on the way at -least, the latter should pretend to no public character, -but feign religious motives, as if he had been -urged by his own private zeal to endeavour the -conversion of the khan and his subjects. Upon -reaching Soldaza in the Crimea, however, he discovered -that, secret as their proceedings were supposed -to have been, the whole scheme of the enterprise -was perfectly understood; and that, unless as -the envoy of the king, he would not be permitted to -continue his journey.</p> - -<p class="c017">Rubruquis had no sooner entered the dominions -of the Tartars than he imagined himself to be in a -new world. The savage aspect of the people, clad -in the most grotesque costume, and eternally on -horseback, together with the strange appearance of -the country, the sound of unknown languages, the -practice of unusual customs, and that feeling of<span class="pageno" id="Page_19">19</span> -loneliness and desertion which seized upon their -minds, caused our traveller and his companions to -credit somewhat too readily the deceptive testimony -of first impressions, which never strictly corresponds -with truth. Travelling in those covered wagons -which serve the Tartars for carriages, tents, and -houses, and through immense steppes in which -neither town, village, house, nor any other building, -save a few antique tombs, appeared, they arrived in -a few weeks at the camp of Zagatay Khan, which, -from the number of those moving houses there collected, -and ranged in long lines upon the edge of a -lake, appeared like an immense city.</p> - -<p class="c017">Here they remained some days in order to repose -themselves, and then set forward, with guides furnished -them by Zagatay, towards the camp of Sartak, -the prince to whom the letters of St. Louis were addressed. -The rude and rapacious manners of the -Tartars, rendered somewhat more insolent than ordinary, -perhaps, by the unaccommodating temper -of their guests, appeared so detestable to Rubruquis, -that, to use his own forcible expression, he seemed -to be passing through one of the gates of hell; and -his ideas were probably tinged with a more sombre -hue by the hideous features of the people, whose -countenances continually kept up in his mind the -notion that he had fallen among a race of demons. -As they approached the Tanais the land rose occasionally -into lofty hills, which were succeeded by -plains upon which nothing but the immense tombs -of the Comans, visible at a distance of two leagues, -met the eye.</p> - -<p class="c017">Having crossed the Tanais and entered Asia, they -were for several days compelled to proceed on foot, -there being neither horses nor oxen to be obtained -for money. Forests and rivers here diversified the -prospect. The inhabitants, a fierce, uncivilized race, -bending beneath the yoke of pagan superstition, and -dwelling in huts scattered through the woods, were<span class="pageno" id="Page_20">20</span> -yet hospitable to strangers, and so inaccessible to -the feelings of jealousy that they cared not upon -whom their wives bestowed their favours. Hogs, -wax, honey, and furs of various kinds constituted -the whole of their wealth. At length, after a long -and a wearisome journey, which was rendered -doubly irksome by their ignorance of the language -of the people, and the stupid and headstrong character -of their interpreter, they arrived on the 1st of -July at the camp of Sartak, three days’ journey -west of the Volga.</p> - -<p class="c017">The court of this Tartar prince exhibited that -species of magnificence which may be supposed most -congruous with the ideas of barbarians: ample tents, -richly caparisoned horses, and gorgeous apparel.—Rubruquis -and his suit entered the royal tent in -solemn procession, with their rich clerical ornaments, -church plate, and illuminated missals borne before -them, holding a splendid copy of the Scriptures in -their hands, wearing their most sumptuous vestments, -and thundering forth, as they moved along, -the “Salve Regina!” This pompous movement, -which gave the mission the appearance of being persons -of consequence, and thus flattered the vanity -of Sartak, was not altogether impolitic; but it had -one evil consequence; for, although it probably -heightened the politeness of their reception, the -sight of their sacred vessels, curious missals, and -costly dresses excited the cupidity of the Nestorian -priests, and cost Rubruquis dearly, many valuable -articles being afterward sequestrated when he was -leaving Tartary.</p> - -<p class="c017">It now appeared that the reports of Sartak’s -conversion to Christianity, which had probably been -circulated in Christendom by the vanity of the Nestorians, -were wholly without foundation; and with -respect to the other points touched upon in the letters -of the French king, the khan professed himself unable -to make any reply without the counsel of his father<span class="pageno" id="Page_21">21</span> -Batou, to whose court, therefore, he directed the -ambassadors to proceed. They accordingly recommenced -their journey, and moving towards the east, -crossed the Volga, and traversed the plains of Kipjak, -until they arrived at the camp of this new sovereign, -whose mighty name seems never before to have -reached their ears. Rubruquis was singularly astonished, -however, at the sight of this prodigious -encampment, which covered the plain for the space -of three or four leagues, the royal tent rising like -an immense dome in the centre, with a vast open -space before it on the southern side.</p> - -<p class="c017">On the morning after their arrival they were presented -to the khan. They found Batou, the description -of whose red countenance reminds the reader -of Tacitus’s portrait of Domitian, seated upon a lofty -throne glittering with gold. One of his wives sat -near him, and around this lady and the other wives -of Batou, who were all present, his principal courtiers -had taken their station. Rubruquis was now commanded -by his conductor to kneel before the prince. -He accordingly bent one knee, and was about to -speak, when his guide informed him by a sign that it -was necessary to bend both. This he did, and then -imagining, he says, that he was kneeling before God, -in order to keep up the illusion, he commenced his -speech with an ejaculation. Having prayed that to -the earthly gifts which the Almighty had showered -down so abundantly upon the khan, the favour of -Heaven might be added, he proceeded to say, that -the spiritual gifts to which he alluded could be obtained -only by becoming a Christian; for that God -himself had said, “He who believeth and is baptized -shall be saved; but he who believeth not shall be -damned.” At these words the khan smiled; but his -courtiers, less hospitable and polite, began to clap -their hands, and hoot and mock at the denouncer of -celestial vengeance. The interpreter, who, in all -probability, wholly misrepresented the speeches he<span class="pageno" id="Page_22">22</span> -attempted to translate, and thus, perhaps, by some -inconceivable blunders excited the derision of the -Tartars, now began to be greatly terrified, as did -Rubruquis himself, who probably remembered that -the leader of a former embassy had been menaced -with the fate of St. Bartholomew. Batou, however, -who seems to have compassionated his sufferings, -desired him to rise up; and turning the conversation -into another channel, began to make inquiries respecting -the French king, asking what was his name, -and whether it was true that he had quitted his own -country for the purpose of carrying on a foreign war. -Rubruquis then endeavoured, but I know not with -what success, to explain the motives of the crusaders, -and several other topics upon which Batou -required information. Observing that the ambassador -was much dejected, and apparently filled with -terror, the khan commanded him to sit down; and -still more to reassure him and dissipate his apprehensions, -ordered a bowl of mare’s milk, or <i>koismos</i>, -to be put out before him, which, as bread and salt -among the Arabs, is with them the sacred pledge of -hospitality; but perceiving that even this failed to -dispel his gloomy thoughts, he bade him look up and -be of good cheer, giving him clearly to understand -that no injury was designed him.</p> - -<p class="c017">Notwithstanding the barbaric magnificence of his -court, and the terror with which he had inspired Rubruquis, -Batou was but a dependent prince, who would -not for his head have dared to determine good or -evil respecting any ambassador entering Tartary,—every -thing in these matters depending upon the -sovereign will of his brother Mangou, the Great Khan -of the Mongols. Batou, in fact, caused so much to -be signified to Rubruquis, informing him, that to obtain -a reply to the letters he had brought, he must -repair to the court of the Khe-Khan. When they -had been allowed sufficient time for repose, a Tartar -chief was assigned them as a guide, and being furnished<span class="pageno" id="Page_23">23</span> -with horses for themselves and their necessary -baggage, the remainder being left behind, and -with sheepskin coats to defend them from the piercing -cold, they set forward towards the camp of Mangou, -then pitched near the extreme frontier of Mongolia, -at the distance of four months’ journey.</p> - -<p class="c017">The privations and fatigue which they endured -during this journey were indescribable. Whenever -they changed horses, the wily Tartar impudently -selected the best beast for himself, though Rubruquis -was a large heavy man, and therefore required a powerful -animal to support his weight. If any of their -horses flagged on the way, the whip and the stick -were mercilessly plied, to compel him, whether he -would or not, to keep pace with the others, which -scoured along over the interminable steppes with the -rapidity of an arrow; and when, as sometimes happened, -the beast totally foundered, the two Franks -(for there were now but two, the third having remained -with Sartak) were compelled to mount, the -one behind the other, on the same horse, and thus -follow their indefatigable and unfeeling conductor. -Hard riding was not, however, the only hardship -which they had to undergo. Thirst, and hunger, and -cold were added to fatigue; for they were allowed -but one meal per day, which they always ate in the -evening, when their day’s journey was over. Their -food, moreover, was not extremely palatable, consisting -generally of the shoulder or ribs of some half-starved -sheep, which, to increase the savouriness of -its flavour, was cooked with ox and horse-dung, and -devoured half-raw. As they advanced, their conductor, -who at the commencement regarded them with -great contempt, and appears to have been making the -experiment whether hardship would kill them or -not, grew reconciled to his charge, perceiving that -they would not die, and introduced them as they proceeded -to various powerful and wealthy Mongols, -who seem to have treated them kindly, offering them,<span class="pageno" id="Page_24">24</span> -in return for their prayers, gold, and silver, and costly -garments. The Hindoos, who imagine the East -India Company to be an old woman, are a type of -those sagacious Tartars, who, as Rubruquis assures -us, supposed that the pope was an old man whose -beard had been blanched by five hundred winters.</p> - -<p class="c017">On the 31st of October, they turned their horses’ -heads towards the south, and proceeded for eight -days through a desert, where they beheld large -droves of wild asses, which, like those seen by the -Ten Thousand in Mesopotamia, were far too swift -for the fleetest steeds. During the seventh day, they -perceived on their right the glittering peaks of the -Caucasus towering above the clouds, and arrived on -the morrow at Kenkat, a Mohammedan town, where -they tasted of wine, and that delicious liquor which -the orientals extract from rice. At a city which -Rubruquis calls <i>Egaius</i>, near Lake Baikal, he found -traces of the Persian language; and shortly afterward -entered the country of the Orrighers, an idolatrous, -or at least a pagan race, who worshipped -with their faces towards the north, while the east -was at that period the <i>Kableh</i>, or praying-point of -the Christians.</p> - -<p class="c017">Our traveller, though far from being intolerant for -his age, had not attained that pitch of humanity -which teaches us to do to others as we would they -should do unto us; for upon entering a temple, which, -from his description, we discover to have been dedicated -to Buddha, and finding the priests engaged in -their devotions, he irreverently disturbed them by -asking questions, and endeavouring to enter into -conversation with them. The Buddhists, consistently -with the mildness of their religion, rebuked -this intrusion by the most obstinate silence, or by -continual repetitions of the words “Om, Om! hactavi!” -which, as he was afterward informed, signified, “Lord, -Lord! thou knowest it!” These priests, -like the bonzes of China, Ava, and Siam, shaved their<span class="pageno" id="Page_25">25</span> -heads, and wore flowing yellow garments, probably -to show their contempt for the Brahminical race, -among whom yellow is the badge of the most degraded -castes. They believed in one God, and, like -their Hindoo forefathers, burned their dead, and -erected pyramids over their ashes.</p> - -<p class="c017">Continuing their journey with their usual rapidity, -they arrived on the last day of the year at the court -of Mangou, who was encamped in a plain of immeasurable -extent, and as level as the sea. Here, -notwithstanding the rigour of the cold, Rubruquis, -conformably to the rules of his order, went to court -barefoot,—a piece of affectation for which he afterward -suffered severely. Three or four days’ experience -of the cold of Northern Tartary cured him of -this folly, however; so that by the 4th of January, -1254, when he was admitted to an audience of -Mangou, he was content to wear shoes like another -person.</p> - -<p class="c017">On entering the imperial tent, heedless of time -and place, Rubruquis and his companion began to -chant the hymn “A Solis Ortu,” which, in all probability -made the khan, who understood not one word -of what they said, and knew the meaning of none -of their ceremonies, regard them as madmen. However, -on this point nothing was said; only, before -they advanced into the presence they were carefully -searched, lest they should have concealed knives or -daggers under their robes with which they might -assassinate the khan. Even their interpreter was -compelled to leave his belt and kharjar with the -porter. Mare’s milk was placed on a low table near -the entrance, close to which they were desired to -seat themselves, upon a kind of long seat, or form, -opposite the queen and her ladies. The floor was -covered with cloth of gold, and in the centre of the -apartment was a kind of open stove, in which a fire -of thorns, and other dry sticks, mingled with cow-dung, -was burning. The khan, clothed in a robe of<span class="pageno" id="Page_26">26</span> -shining fur, something resembling seal-skin, was -seated on a small couch. He was a man of about -forty-five, of middling stature, with a thick flat nose. -His queen, a young and beautiful woman, was seated -near him, together with one of his daughters by a -former wife, a princess of marriageable age, and a -great number of young children.</p> - -<p class="c017">The first question put to them by the khan was, -what they would drink; there being upon the table -four species of beverage,—wine, cerasine, or rice-wine, -milk, and a sort of metheglin. They replied -that they were no great drinkers, but would readily -taste of whatever his majesty might please to command; -upon which the khan directed his cupbearer -to place cerasine before them. The Turcoman interpreter, -who was a man of very different mettle, -and perhaps thought it a sin to permit the khan’s -wine to lie idle, had meanwhile conceived a violent -affection for the cupbearer, and had so frequently -put his services in requisition, that whether he was -in the imperial tent or in a Frank tavern was to him -a matter of some doubt. Mangou himself had -pledged his Christian guests somewhat too freely; -and in order to allow his brain leisure to adjust itself, -and at the same time to excite the wonder of the -strangers by his skill in falconry, commanded various -kinds of birds of prey to be brought, each of -which he placed successively upon his hand, and considered -with that steady sagacity which men a little -touched with wine are fond of exhibiting.</p> - -<p class="c017">Having assiduously regarded the birds long enough -to evince his imperial contempt of politeness, Mangou -desired the ambassadors to speak. Rubruquis -obeyed, and delivered an harangue of some length, -which, considering the muddy state of the interpreter’s -brain and the extremely analogous condition -of the khan’s, may very safely be supposed to have -been dispersed, like the rejected prayers of the Homeric -heroes, in empty air. In reply, as he wittily<span class="pageno" id="Page_27">27</span> -observes, Mangou made a speech, from which, as it -was translated to him, the ambassador could infer -nothing except that the interpreter was extremely -drunk, and the emperor very little better. In spite -of this cloudy medium, however, he imagined he -could perceive that Mangou intended to express -some displeasure at their having in the first instance -repaired to the court of Sartak rather than to his; -but observing that the interpreter’s brain was totally -hostile to the passage of rational ideas, Rubruquis -wisely concluded that silence would be his best friend -on the occasion, and he accordingly addressed himself -to that moody and mysterious power, and -shortly afterward received permission to retire.</p> - -<p class="c017">The ostensible object of Rubruquis was to obtain -permission to remain in Mongolia for the purpose of -preaching the Gospel; but whether this was merely -a feint, or that the appearance of the country and -people had cooled his zeal, it is certain that he did -not urge the point very vehemently. However, the -khan was easily prevailed upon to allow him to prolong -his stay till the melting of the snows and the -warm breezes of spring should render travelling -more agreeable. In the mean while our ambassador -employed himself in acquiring some knowledge of -the people and the country; but the language, without -which such knowledge must ever be superficial, -he totally neglected.</p> - -<p class="c017">About Easter the khan, with his family and smaller -tents or pavilions, quitted the camp, and proceeded -towards Karakorum, which might be termed his -capital, for the purpose of examining a marvellous -piece of jewelry in form of a tree, the production -of a French goldsmith. This curious piece of mechanism -was set up in the banqueting-hall of his -palace, and from its branches, as from some miraculous -fountain, four kinds of wines and other delicious -cordials, gushed forth for the use of the guests. -Rubruquis and his companions followed in the emperor’s<span class="pageno" id="Page_28">28</span> -train, traversing a mountainous and steril -district, where tempests, bearing snow and intolerable -cold upon their wings, swept and roared around -them as they passed, piercing through their sheep-skins -and other coverings to their very bones.</p> - -<p class="c017">At Karakorum, a small city, which Rubruquis -compares to the town of St. Denis, near Paris, our -ambassador-missionary maintained a public disputation -with certain pagan priests, in the presence of -three of the khan’s secretaries, of whom the first -was a Christian, the second a Mohammedan, and -the third a Buddhist. The conduct of the khan was -distinguished by the most perfect toleration, as he -commanded under pain of death that none of the -disputants should slander, traduce, or abuse his adversaries, -or endeavour by rumours or insinuations -to excite popular indignation against them; an act -of mildness from which Rubruquis, with the illiberality -of a monk, inferred that Mangou was totally -indifferent to all religion. His object, however, -seems to have been to discover the truth; but from -the disputes of men who argued with each other -through interpreters wholly ignorant of the subject, -and none of whom could clearly comprehend the -doctrines he impugned, no great instruction was to -be derived. Accordingly, the dispute ended, as all -such disputes must, in smoke; and each disputant -retired from the field more fully persuaded than ever -of the invulnerable force of his own system.</p> - -<p class="c017">At length, perceiving that nothing was to be -effected, and having, indeed, no very definite object -to effect, excepting the conversion of the khan, -which to a man who could not even converse with -him upon the most ordinary topic, seemed difficult, -Rubruquis took his leave of the Mongol court, and -leaving his companion at Karakorum, turned his -face towards the west. Returning by an easier or -more direct route, he reached the camp of Batou in -two months. From thence he proceeded to the city<span class="pageno" id="Page_29">29</span> -of Sarai on the Volga, and descending along the -course of that river, entered Danghistan, crossed -the Caucasus, and pursued his journey through -Georgia, Armenia, and Asia Minor, to Syria.</p> - -<p class="c017">Here he discovered that, taught by misfortune or -yielding to the force of circumstances, the French -king had relinquished, at least for the present, his -mad project of recovering Palestine. He was therefore -desirous of proceeding to Europe, for the purpose -of rendering this prince an account of his mission; -but this being contrary to the wishes of his -superiors, who had assigned him the convent of Acra -for his retreat, he contented himself with drawing -up an account of his travels, which was forwarded, -by the first opportunity that occurred, to St. Louis in -France. Rubruquis then retired to his convent, in -the gloom of whose cloisters he thenceforward concealed -himself from the eyes of mankind. It has -been ascertained, however, that he was still living -in 1293, though the exact date of his death is unknown.</p> - -<p class="c017">The work of Rubruquis was originally written in -Latin, from which language a portion of it was -translated into English and published by Hackluyt. -Shortly afterward Purchas published a new version -of the whole work in his collection. From this -version Bergeron made his translation into French, -with the aid of a Latin manuscript, which Vander -Aa and the “Biographie Universelle” have multiplied -into two. In all or any of these forms, the work -may still be read with great pleasure and advantage -by the diligent student of the opinions and manners -of mankind.</p> - -<div class="pbb"> - <hr class="pb c004" /> -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pageno" id="Page_30">30</span></p> - -<h2 class="c012" id="MARCO_POLO">MARCO POLO.</h2> -</div> - -<div class="nf-center-c0"> -<div class="nf-center c004"> - <div>Born 1250.—Died 1324.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class="c016"><span class="sc">The</span> relations of Ascelin, Carpini, and Rubruquis, -which are supposed by some writers to have opened -the way to the discoveries of the Polo family, are -by no means entitled to so high an honour. Carpini -did not return to Italy until the latter end of the -year 1248; Ascelin’s return was still later; and although -reports of the strange things they had beheld -no doubt quickly reached Venice, these cannot be -supposed to have exercised any very powerful influence -in determining Nicolo and Maffio to undertake -a voyage to Constantinople, the original place -of their destination, from whence they were accidentally -led on into the extremities of Tartary. -With respect to Rubruquis, he commenced his undertaking -three years after their departure from -Venice, while they were in Bokhāra; and before his -return to Palestine they had already penetrated into -Cathay. The influence of the relations of these -monks upon the movements of the Polos is therefore -imaginary.</p> - -<p class="c017">Nicolo and Maffio Polo, two noble Venetians engaged -in commerce, having freighted a vessel with -rich merchandise, sailed from Venice in the year -1250. Traversing the Mediterranean and the Bosphorus, -they arrived in safety at Constantinople, -Baldwin II. being then Emperor of the East. Here -they disposed of their cargo, and purchasing rich -jewels with the proceeds, crossed the Black Sea to -Soldain, or Sudak, in the Crimea, from whence they -travelled by land to the court of Barkah Khan, a -Tartar prince, whose principal residences were the -cities of Al-Serai, and Bolghar. To this khan they<span class="pageno" id="Page_31">31</span> -presented a number of their finest jewels, receiving -gifts of still greater value in return. When they -had spent a whole year in the dominions of Barkah, -and were beginning to prepare for their return to -Italy, hostilities suddenly broke out between the -khan and his cousin Holagon; which, rendering unsafe -all passages to the west, compelled them to -make the circuit of the northern and eastern frontiers -of Kipjak. Having escaped from the scene of -war they crossed Gihon, and then traversing a desert -of seventeen days’ journey, thinly sprinkled -with the tents of the wandering tribes, they arrived -at Bokhāra. Here they remained three years. At -the termination of this period an ambassador from -Holagon to Kublai Khan passing through Bokhāra, -and happening accidentally to meet with the Polos, -who had by this time acquired a competent knowledge -of the Tartar language, was greatly charmed -with their conversation and manners, and by much -persuasion and many magnificent promises prevailed -upon them to accompany him to Cambalu, or Khanbalik, -in Cathay. A whole year was consumed in -this journey. At length, however, they arrived at -the court of the Great Khan, who received and -treated them with peculiar distinction.</p> - -<p class="c017">How long the brothers remained at Cambalu is -not known; but their residence, whatever may have -been its length, sufficed to impress Kublai Khan with -an exalted opinion of their honour and capacity, so -that when by the advice of his courtiers he determined -on sending an embassy to the pope, Nicolo -and Maffio were intrusted with the conduct of the -mission. They accordingly departed from Cambalu, -furnished with letters for the head of the Christian -church, a passport or tablet of gold, empowering -them to provide themselves with guides, horses, and -provisions throughout the khan’s dominions, and -accompanied by a Tartar nobleman. This Tartar -falling exceedingly ill on the way, they proceeded<span class="pageno" id="Page_32">32</span> -alone, and, after three years of toil and dangers, -arrived at Venice in 1269.</p> - -<p class="c017">Nicolo, who, during the many years he had been -absent, seems to have received no intelligence from -home, now found that his wife, whom he had left -pregnant at his departure, was dead, but that she had -left him a son, named Marco, then nineteen years -old. The pope, likewise, had died the preceding -year; and various intrigues preventing the election -of a successor, they remained in Italy two years, -unable to execute the commission of the khan. At -length, fearing that their long absence might be displeasing -to Kublai, and perceiving no probability of a -speedy termination to the intrigues of the conclave, -they, in 1271, again set out for the East, accompanied -by young Marco.</p> - -<p class="c017">Arriving in Palestine, they obtained from the legate -Visconti, then at Acre, letters testifying their -fidelity to the Great Khan, and stating the fact that -a new pope had not yet been chosen. At Al-Ajassi, -in Armenia, however, they were overtaken by a -messenger from Visconti, who wrote to inform them -that he himself had been elected to fill the papal -throne, and requested that they would either return, -or delay their departure until he could provide them -with new letters to the khan. As soon as these -letters and the presents of his holiness arrived, they -continued their journey, and passing through the -northern provinces of Persia, were amused with the -extraordinary history of the Assassins, then recently -destroyed by a general of Holagon.</p> - -<p class="c017">Quitting Persia, they proceeded through a rich -and picturesque country to Balkh, a celebrated city, -which they found in ruins and nearly deserted, its -lofty walls and marble palaces having been levelled -with the ground by the devastating armies of the -Mongols. The country in the neighbourhood had -likewise been depopulated, the inhabitants having -taken refuge in the mountains from the rapacious<span class="pageno" id="Page_33">33</span> -cruelty of the predatory hordes, who roamed over -the vast fields which greater robbers had reaped, -gleaning the scanty plunder which had escaped their -powerful predecessors. Though the land was well -watered and fertile, and abounding in game, lions -and other wild beasts had begun to establish their -dominion over it, man having disappeared; and therefore, -such travellers as ventured across this new -wilderness were constrained to carry along with -them all necessary provisions, nothing whatever -being to be found on the way.</p> - -<p class="c017">When they had passed this desert, they arrived in -a country richly cultivated and covered with corn, -to the south of which there was a ridge of high -mountains, where such prodigious quantities of salt -were found that all the world might have been supplied -from those mines. The track of our travellers -through the geographical labyrinth of Tartary it is -impossible to follow. They appear to have been -prevented by accidents from pursuing any regular -course, in one place having their passage impeded -by the overflowing of a river, and on other occasions -being turned aside by the raging of bloody wars, by -the heat or barrenness, or extent of deserts, or -by their utter inability to procure guides through -tracts covered with impervious forests or perilous -morasses.</p> - -<p class="c017">They next proceeded through a fertile country, -inhabited by Mohammedans, to the town of Scasom, -perhaps the Koukan of Arrowsmith, on the Sirr or -Sihon. Numerous castles occupied the fastnesses -of the mountains, while the shepherd tribes, like the -troglodytes of old, dwelt with their herds and flocks -in caverns scooped out of the rock. In three days’ -journey from hence they reached the province of -Balascia, or Balashghan, where, Marco falling sick, -the party were detained during a whole year, a -delay which afforded our illustrious traveller ample<span class="pageno" id="Page_34">34</span> -leisure for prosecuting his researches respecting this -and the neighbouring countries. The kings of this -petty sovereignty pretended to trace their descent -from the Macedonian conqueror and the daughter of -Darius; making up, by the fabulous splendour of -their genealogy, for their want of actual power. The -inhabitants were Mohammedans, and spoke a language -peculiar to themselves. It was said, that not -many years previous they had possessed a race of -horses equally illustrious with their kings, being -descended from Bucephalus; but as it was asserted -that these noble animals possessed one great advantage -over their kings, that of bearing upon their -foreheads the peculiar mark which distinguished the -great founder of their family, thus proving the purity -of the breed, they very prudently added that the -whole race had recently been exterminated.</p> - -<p class="c017">This country was rich in minerals and precious -stones, lead, copper, silver, lapis lazuli, and rubies -abounding in the mountains. The climate was cold, -and that of the plains insalubrious, engendering -agues, which quickly yielded, however, to the bracing -air of the hills; where Marco, after languishing for -a whole year with this disorder, recovered his health -in the course of a few days. The horses were -large, strong, and swift, and had hoofs so tough that -they could travel unshod over the most rocky places. -Vast flocks of wild sheep, exceedingly difficult to -be taken, were found in the hills.</p> - -<p class="c017">Marco’s health being restored, our travellers resumed -their journey towards Cathay, and proceeding -in a north-easterly direction, arrived at the roots of -a vast mountain, reported by the inhabitants to be -the loftiest in the world. Having continued for three -days ascending the steep approaches to this mountain, -they reached an extensive table-land, hemmed -in on both sides by still loftier mountains, and having -a great lake in its centre. A fine river likewise<span class="pageno" id="Page_35">35</span> -flowed through it, and maintained so extraordinary -a degree of fertility in the pastures upon its banks, -that an ox or horse brought lean to these plains would -become fat in ten days. Great numbers of wild animals -were found here, among the rest a species of -wild sheep with horns six spans in length, from -which numerous drinking-vessels were made. This -immense plain, notwithstanding its fertility, was uninhabited, -and the severity of the cold prevented its -being frequented by birds. Fire, too, it was asserted, -did not here burn so brightly, or produce the same -effect upon food, as in other places: an observation -which has recently been made on the mountains of -Savoy and Switzerland.</p> - -<p class="c017">From this plain they proceeded along the foot of -the Allak mountains to the country of Kashgar, -which, possessing a fertile soil, and an industrious -and ingenious population, was maintained in a high -state of cultivation, and beautified with numerous -gardens, orchards, and vineyards. From Kashgar -they travelled to Yarkand, where the inhabitants, -like those of the valleys of the Pyrenees, were subject -to the goitres, or large wens upon the throat. -To this province succeeded that of Khoten, whence -our word <i>cotton</i> has been derived. The inhabitants -of this country, an industrious but unwarlike race, -were of the Mohammedan religion, and tributaries -to the Great Khan. Proceeding in their south-easterly -direction, they passed through the city of -Peym, where, if a husband or wife were absent from -home twenty days, the remaining moiety might -marry again; and pursuing their course through -sandy barren plains, arrived at the country of Sartem. -Here the landscape was enlivened by numerous -cities and castles; but when the storm of war burst -upon them, the inhabitants, like the Arabs, relied -upon famine as their principal weapon against the -enemy, retiring with their wives, children, treasures, -and provisions, into the desert, whither none could<span class="pageno" id="Page_36">36</span> -follow them. To secure their subsistence from -plunder, they habitually scooped out their granaries -in the depths of the desert, where, after harvest, -they annually buried their corn in deep pits, over -which the wind soon spread the wavy sand as before, -obliterating all traces of their labours. They -themselves, however, possessed some unerring index -to the spot, which enabled them at all times to discover -their hoards. Chalcedonies, jaspers, and -other precious stones were found in the rivers of -this province.</p> - -<p class="c017">Here some insurmountable obstacle preventing -their pursuing a direct course, they deviated towards -the north, and in five days arrived at the city of Lop, -on the border of the desert of the same name. This -prodigious wilderness, the most extensive in Asia, -could not, as was reported, be traversed from west -to east in less than a year; while, proceeding from -south to north, a month’s journey conducted the -traveller across its whole latitude. Remaining some -time at the city of Lop, or Lok, to make the necessary -preparations for the journey, they entered the -desert. In all those fearful scenes where man is -constrained to compare his own insignificance with -the magnificent and resistless power of the elements, -legends, accommodated to the nature of the place, -abound, peopling the frozen deep or the “howling -wilderness” with poetical horrors superadded to -those which actually exist. On the present occasion -their Tartar companions, or guides, entertained -our travellers with the wild tales current in the -country. Having dwelt sufficiently upon the tremendous -sufferings which famine or want of water -sometimes inflicted upon the hapless merchant in -those inhospitable wastes, they added, from their -legendary stores, that malignant demons continually -hovered in the cold blast or murky cloud which -nightly swept over the sands. Delighting in mischief, -they frequently exerted their supernatural<span class="pageno" id="Page_37">37</span> -powers in steeping the senses of travellers in delusion, -sometimes calling them by their names, practising -upon their sight, or, by raising up phantom -shapes, leading them astray, and overwhelming them -in the sands. Upon other occasions, the ears of the -traveller were delighted with the sounds of music -which these active spirits, like Shakspeare’s Ariel, -scattered through the dusky air; or were saluted -with that sweetest of all music, the voice of friends. -Then, suddenly changing their mood, the beat of -drums, the clash of arms, and a stream of footfalls, -and of the tramp of hoofs, were heard, as if whole -armies were marching past in the darkness. Such -as were deluded by any of these arts, and separated, -whether by night or day, from their caravan, generally -lost themselves in the pathless wilds, and perished -miserably of hunger. To prevent this danger, -travellers kept close together, and suspended little -bells about the necks of their beasts; and when any -of their party unfortunately lagged behind, they -carefully fixed up marks along their route, in order -to enable them to follow.</p> - -<p class="c017">Having safely traversed this mysterious desert, -they arrived at the city of Shatcheu, on the Polonkir, -in Tangut. Here the majority of the inhabitants -were pagans and polytheists, and their various gods -possessed numerous temples in different parts of the -city. Marco, who was a diligent inquirer into the -creed and religious customs of the nations he visited, -discovered many singular traits of superstition at -Shatcheu. When a son was born in a family, he was -immediately consecrated to some one of their numerous -gods; and a sheep, yeaned, perhaps, on the -birthday of the child, was carefully kept and fed in -the house during a whole year: at the expiration of -which term both the child and the sheep were carried -to the temple, and offered as a sacrifice to the -god. The god, or, which was the same thing, the -priests, accepted the sheep, which they could eat, in<span class="pageno" id="Page_38">38</span> -lieu of the boy, whom they could not; and the meat -being dressed in the temple, that the deity might be -refreshed with the sweet-smelling savour, was then -conveyed to the father’s dwelling, where a sumptuous -feast ensued, at which it may be safely inferred -the servants of the temple were not forgotten. At -all events, the priests received the head, feet, skin, -and entrails, with a portion of the flesh, for their -share. The bones were preserved, probably for purposes -of divination.</p> - -<p class="c017">Their exit from life was celebrated with as much -pomp as their entrance into it. Astrologers, the -universal pests of the east, were immediately consulted; -and these, having learned the year, month, -day, and hour in which the deceased was born, interrogated -the stars, and by their mute but significant -replies discovered the precise moment on which the -interment was to take place. Sometimes these -oracles of the sky became sullen, and for six months -vouchsafed no answer to the astrologers, during all -which time the corpse remained in a species of purgatory, -uncertain of its doom. To prevent the dead -from keeping the living in the same state, however, -the body, having been previously embalmed, was enclosed -in a coffin so artificially constructed that no -offensive odour could escape; while, as the soul was -supposed to hover all this while over its ancient -tenement, and to require, as formerly, some kind of -earthly sustenance, food was daily placed before the -deceased, that the spirit might satisfy its appetite -with the agreeable effluvia. When the day of interment -arrived, the astrologers, who would have lost -their credit had they always allowed things to proceed -in a rational way, sometimes commanded the -body to be borne out through an opening made for -the purpose in the wall, professing to be guided in -this matter by the stars, who, having no other employment, -were extremely solicitous that all Tartars -should be interred in due form. On the way from<span class="pageno" id="Page_39">39</span> -the house of the deceased to the cemetery, wooden -cottages with porches covered with silk were erected -at certain intervals, in which the coffin was set down -before a table covered with bread, wine, and other -delicacies, that the spirit might be refreshed with -the savour. The procession was accompanied by -all the musical instruments in the city; and along -with the body were borne representations upon -paper of servants of both sexes, horses, camels, -money, and costly garments, all of which were consumed -with the corpse on the funeral pile, instead -of the realities, which, according to Herodotus, were -anciently offered up as a sacrifice to the manes at -the tombs of the Scythian chiefs.</p> - -<p class="c017">Turning once more towards the north, they entered -the fertile and agreeable province of Khamil, -situated between the vast desert of Lop and another -smaller desert, only three days’ journey across. -The natives of this country, practical disciples of -Aristippus, being of opinion that pleasure is happiness, -seemed to live only for amusement, devoting -the whole of their time to singing, dancing, music, -and literature. Their hospitality, like that of the -knights of chivalry, was so boundlessly profuse, that -strangers were permitted to share, not only their -board, but their bed, the master of a family departing -when a guest arrived, in order to render him more -completely at home with his wife and daughters. -To increase the value of this extraordinary species -of hospitality, it is added that the women of Khamil -are beautiful, and as fully disposed as their lords to -promote the happiness of their guests. Mangou -Khan, the predecessor of Kublai, desirous of reforming -the morals of his subjects, whatever might be the -fate of his own, abolished this abominable custom; -but years of scarcity and domestic afflictions ensuing, -the people petitioned to have the right of following -their ancestral customs restored to them. “Since -you glory in your shame,” said Mangou to their ambassadors,<span class="pageno" id="Page_40">40</span> -“you may go and act according to your -customs.” The flattering privilege was received -with great rejoicings, and the practice, strange as it -may be, has continued up to the present day.</p> - -<p class="c017">Departing from this Tartarian Sybaris, they entered -the province of Chinchintalas, a country thickly -peopled, and rich in mines, but chiefly remarkable -for that salamander species of linen, manufactured -from the slender fibres of the asbestos, which was -cleansed from stains by being cast into the fire. -Then followed the district of Sucher, in the mountains -of which the best rhubarb in the world was -found. They next directed their course towards the -north-east, and having completed the passage of the -desert of Shomo, which occupied forty days, arrived -at the city of Karakorum, compared by Rubruquis to -the insignificant town of St. Denis, in France, but -said by Marco Polo to have been three miles in -circumference, and strongly fortified with earthen -ramparts.</p> - -<p class="c017">Our travellers now turned their faces towards the -south, and traversing an immense tract of country -which Marco considered unworthy of minute description, -passed the boundaries of Mongolia, and entered -Cathay. During this journey they travelled through -a district in which were found enormous wild cattle, -nearly approaching the size of the elephant, and -clothed with a fine, soft, black and white hair, in -many respects more beautiful than silk, specimens -of which Marco procured and brought home with -him to Venice on his return. Here, likewise, the -best musk in the world was found. The animal from -which it was procured resembled a goat in size, but -in gracefulness and beauty bore a stronger likeness -to the antelope, except that it had no horns. On the -belly of this animal there appeared, every full moon, a -small protuberance or excrescence, like a thin silken -bag, filled with the liquid perfume; to obtain which -the animal was hunted and slain. This bag was<span class="pageno" id="Page_41">41</span> -then severed from the body, and its contents, when -dried, were distributed at an enormous price over -the world, to scent the toilets and the persons of -beauties in reality more sweet than itself.</p> - -<p class="c017">Near Changanor, at another point of their journey, -they saw one of the khan’s palaces, which was surrounded -by beautiful gardens, containing numerous -small lakes and rivulets and a prodigious number of -swans. The neighbouring plains abounded in partridges, -pheasants, and other game, among which are -enumerated five species of cranes, some of a snowy -whiteness, others with black wings, their feathers -being ornamented with eyes like those of the peacock, -but of a golden colour, with beautiful black and -white necks. Immense flocks of quails and partridges -were found in a valley near this city, where millet -and other kinds of grain were sown for them by order -of the khan, who likewise appointed a number -of persons to watch over the birds, and caused huts -to be erected in which they might take shelter and -be fed by their keepers during the severity of the -winter. By these means, the khan had at all times -a large quantity of game at his command.</p> - -<p class="c017">At Chandu, three days’ journey south-west of -Changanor, they beheld the stupendous palace which -Kublai Khan had erected in that city. Neither the -dimensions nor the architecture are described by -Marco Polo, but it is said to have been constructed, -with singular art and beauty, of marble and other -precious materials. The grounds of this palace, -which were surrounded by a wall, were sixteen miles -in circumference, and were beautifully laid out into -meadows, groves, and lawns, watered by sparkling -streams, and abundantly stocked with red and fallow -deer, and other animals of the chase. In this park -the khan had a mew of falcons, which, when at the -palace, he visited once a week, and caused to be fed -with the flesh of young fawns. Tame leopards were -employed in hunting the stag, and, like the chattah,<span class="pageno" id="Page_42">42</span> -or tiger, used for the same purpose in the Carnatic, -were carried out on horseback to the scene of action, -and let loose only when the game appeared.</p> - -<p class="c017">In the midst of a tall grove, there was an elegant -pavilion, or summer-house, of wood, supported on -pillars, and glittering with the richest gilding. -Against each pillar stood the figure of a dragon, -likewise richly gilt, with its tail curling round the -shaft, its head touching the roof, and its wings extended -on both sides through the intercolumniations. -The roof was composed of split bamboos gilded and -varnished, and so skilfully shelving over each other -that no rain could ever penetrate between them. -This beautiful structure could easily be taken to -pieces or re-erected, like a tent, and, to prevent it -from being overthrown by the wind, was fastened to -the earth by two hundred silken ropes. At this -palace the khan regularly spent the three summer -months of June, July, and August, leaving it on the -28th of the last-named month, in order to proceed -towards the south. Eight days previous to his departure, -however, having solemnly consulted his -astrologers, the khan annually offered sacrifice to -the gods and spirits of the earth, the ceremony consisting -in sprinkling a quantity of white mare’s milk -upon the ground with his own hands, at the same -time praying for the prosperity of his subjects, wives, -and children. Kublai Khan was in no danger of -wanting milk for this sacrifice, since he possessed a -stud of horses, nearly ten thousand in number, all -so purely white, that like certain Homeric steeds, -they might, without vanity, have traced their origin -to Boreas, the father of the snow. Indeed, much of -this imperial nectar must have streamed in libations -to mother earth on less solemn occasions; since -none but persons of the royal race of Genghis Khan -were permitted to drink of it, with the exception of -one single family, named Boriat, to whom this distinguished -privilege had been granted by Genghis for -their prowess and valour.</p> - -<p><span class="pageno" id="Page_43">43</span></p> - -<p class="c017">Our travellers now drew near Cambalu, and the -khan, having received intelligence of their approach, -sent forth messengers to meet them at the distance -of forty days’ journey from the imperial city, that -they might be provided with all necessaries on the -way, and conducted with every mark of honour and -distinction to the capital. Upon their arrival, they -were immediately presented to the khan; and having -prostrated themselves upon the ground, according to -the custom of the country, were commanded to rise, -and most graciously received. When they had been -kindly interrogated by the emperor respecting the -fatigues and dangers they had encountered in his -service, and had briefly related their proceedings -with the pope and in Palestine, from whence, at the -khan’s desire, they had brought a small portion of -holy oil from the lamp of Christ’s sepulchre at Jerusalem, -they received high commendations for their -care and fidelity. Then the khan, observing Marco, -inquired, “Who is this youth?”—“He is your majesty’s -servant, and my son,” replied Nicolo. Kublai -then received the young man with a smile, and, appointing -him to some office about his person, caused -him to be instructed in the languages and sciences -of the country. Marco’s aptitude and genius enabled -him to fulfil the wishes of the khan. In a very short -time he acquired, by diligence and assiduity, a large -acquaintance with the manners of the Mongols, and -could speak and write fluently in four of the languages -of the empire.</p> - -<p class="c017">When Marco Polo appeared to have acquired the -necessary degree of information, the khan, to make -trial of his ability, despatched him upon an embassy -to a city or chief called Karakhan, at the distance of -six months’ journey from Cambalu. This difficult -commission our traveller executed with ability and -discretion; and in order still further to enhance the -merit of his services in the estimation of his sovereign, -he carefully observed the customs and manners<span class="pageno" id="Page_44">44</span> -of all the various tribes among whom he resided, -and drew up a concise account of the whole in writing, -which, together with a description of the new -and curious objects he had beheld, he presented to -the khan on his return. This, as he foresaw, greatly -contributed to increase the favour of the prince towards -him; and he continued to rise gradually from -one degree of honour to another, until at length it -may be doubted whether any individual in the empire -enjoyed a larger portion of Kublai’s affection and -esteem. Upon various occasions, sometimes upon -the khan’s business, sometimes upon his own, he -traversed all the territories and dependencies of the -empire, everywhere possessing the means of observing -whatever he considered worth notice, his authority -and the imperial favour opening the most -secluded and sacred places to his scrutiny.</p> - -<p class="c017">As our traveller has not thought proper, however, -to describe these various journeys chronologically, -or, indeed, to determine with any degree of exactness -when any one of them took place, we are at -liberty, in recording his peregrinations, to adopt -whatever arrangement we please; and it being indisputable -that Northern China was the first part of -Kublai’s dominions, properly so called, which he entered, -it appears most rational to commence the history -of his Chinese travels with an outline of what -he saw in that division of the empire.</p> - -<p class="c017">The khan himself, whose profuse munificence -enabled Marco Polo to perform with pleasure and -comfort his long and numerous expeditions, was a -fine handsome man of middle stature, with a fresh -complexion, bright black eyes, a well-formed nose, -and a form every way well proportioned. He had -four wives, each of whom had the title of empress, -and possessed her own magnificent palace, with a -separate court, consisting of three hundred maids of -honour, a large number of eunuchs, and a suite -amounting at least to ten thousand persons. He,<span class="pageno" id="Page_45">45</span> -moreover, possessed a numerous harem besides his -wives; and in order to keep up a constant supply -of fresh beauties, messengers were despatched every -two years into a province of Tartary remarkable for -the beauty of its women, and therefore set apart as -a nursery for royal concubines, to collect the finest -among the daughters of the land for the khan. As -the inhabitants of this country considered it an honour -to breed mistresses for their prince, the “elegans -formarum spectator” had no difficulty in finding -whatever number of young women he desired, and -generally returned to court with at least five hundred -in his charge. So vast an army of women were not, -however, marched all at once into the khan’s harem. -Examiners were appointed to fan away the chaff from -the corn,—that is, to discover whether any of these -fair damsels snored in their sleep, had an unsavoury -smell, or were addicted to any mischievous or disagreeable -tricks in their behaviour. Such, says the -traveller, as were finally approved were divided into -parties of five, and one such party attended in the -chamber of the khan during three days and three -nights in their turn, while another party waited in -an adjoining apartment to prepare whatever the -others might command them. The girls of inferior -charms were employed in menial offices about the -palace, or were bestowed in marriage, with large -portions, upon the favoured officers of the khan.</p> - -<p class="c017">The number of the khan’s family, though not altogether -answerable to this vast establishment of -women, was respectable,—consisting of forty-seven -sons, of whom twenty-two were by his wives, and all -employed in offices of trust and honour in the empire. -Of the number of his daughters we are not informed.</p> - -<p class="c017">The imperial city of Cambalu, the modern Peking, -formed the residence of the khan during the months -of December, January, and February. The palace -of Kublai stood in the midst of a prodigious park, -thirty-two miles in circumference, surrounded by a<span class="pageno" id="Page_46">46</span> -lofty wall and deep ditch. This enclosure, like all -Mongol works of the kind, was square, and each of -its four sides was pierced by but one gate, so that -between gate and gate there was a distance of eight -miles. Within this vast square stood another, -twenty-four miles in circumference, the walls being -equidistant from those of the outer square, and -pierced on the northern and southern sides by three -gates, of which the centre one, loftier and more -magnificent than the rest, was reserved for the khan -alone. At the four corners, and in the centre of -each face of the inner square, were superb and spacious -buildings, which were royal arsenals for containing -the implements and machinery of war, such -as horse-trappings, long and crossbows and arrows, -helmets, cuirasses, leather armour, &c. Marco Polo -makes no mention of artillery or of firearms of any -kind, from which it may be fairly inferred that the -use of gunpowder, notwithstanding the vain pretensions -of the modern Chinese, was unknown to their -ancestors of the thirteenth century; for it is inconceivable -that so intelligent and observant a traveller -as Marco Polo should have omitted all mention of -so stupendous an invention, had it in his age been -known either to the Chinese or their conquerors. -Indeed, though certainly superior in civilization and -the arts of life to the nations of Europe, they appear -to have been altogether inferior in the science of -destruction; for when Sian-fu had for three years -checked the arms of Kublai Khan in his conquest -of Southern China, the Tartars were compelled to -have recourse to the ingenuity of Nicolo and Maffio -Polo, who, constructing immense catapults capable -of casting stones of three hundred pounds’ weight, -enabled them, by battering down the houses and -shaking the walls as with an earthquake, to terrify -the inhabitants into submission.</p> - -<p class="c017">To return, however, to the description of the palace. -The space between the first and second walls<span class="pageno" id="Page_47">47</span> -was bare and level, and appropriated to the exercising -of the troops. But having passed the second -wall, you discovered an immense park, resembling -the paradises of the ancient Persian kings, stretching -away on all sides into green lawns, dotted and broken -into long sunny vistas or embowered shades by numerous -groves of trees, between the rich and various -foliage of which the glittering pinnacles and snow-white -battlements of the palace walls appeared at -intervals. The palace itself was a mile in length, -but, not being of corresponding height, had rather the -appearance of a vast terrace or range of buildings than -of one structure. Its interior was divided into numerous -apartments, some of which were of prodigious -dimensions and splendidly ornamented; the walls -being covered with figures of men, birds, and animals -in exquisite relief and richly gilt. A labyrinth -of carving, gilding, and the most brilliant colours, -red, green, and blue, supplied the place of a ceiling; -and the united effect of the whole oppressed the soul -with a sense of painful splendour. On the north of -this poetical abode, which rivalled in vastness and -magnificence the Olympic domes of Homer, stood -an artificial hill, a mile in circumference and of corresponding -height, which was skilfully planted with -evergreen trees, which the Great Khan had caused to -be brought from remote places, with all their roots, -on the backs of elephants. At the foot of this hill -were two beautiful lakes imbosomed in trees, and -filled with a multitude of delicate fish.</p> - -<p class="c017">That portion of the imperial city which had been -erected by Kublai Khan was square, like his palace. -It was less extensive, however, than the royal -grounds, being only twenty-four miles in circumference. -The streets were all straight, and six miles -in length, and the houses were erected on each side, -with courts and gardens, like palaces. At a certain -hour of the night, a bell, like the curfew of the Normans, -was sounded in the city, after which it was<span class="pageno" id="Page_48">48</span> -not lawful for any person to go out of doors unless -upon the most urgent business; for example, to procure -assistance for a woman in labour; in which -case, however, they were compelled to carry torches -before them, from which we may infer that the -streets were not lighted with lamps. Twelve extensive -suburbs, inhabited by foreign merchants and -by tradespeople, and more populous than the city -itself, lay without the walls.</p> - -<p class="c017">The money current in China at this period was of -a species of paper fabricated from the middle bark -of the mulberry-tree, and of a round form. To counterfeit, -or to refuse this money in payment, or to -make use of any other was a capital offence. The -use of this money, which within the empire was as -good as any other instrument of exchange, enabled -the khan to amass incredible quantities of the precious -metals and of all the other toys which delight -civilized man. Great public roads, which may be -enumerated among the principal instruments of civilization, -radiated from Peking, or Cambalu, towards -all the various provinces of the empire, and by the -enlightened and liberal regulations of the khan, not -only facilitated in a surprising manner the conveyance -of intelligence, but likewise afforded to travellers -and merchants a safe and commodious passage -from one province to another. On each of these -great roads were inns at the distance of twenty-five -or thirty miles, amply furnished with chambers, beds, -and provisions, and four hundred horses, of which -one half were constantly kept saddled in the stables, -ready for use, while the other moiety were grazing -in the neighbouring fields. In deserts and mountainous -steril districts where there were no inhabitants, -the khan established colonies to cultivate the -lands, where that was possible, and provide provisions -for the ambassadors and royal messengers -who possessed the privilege of using the imperial -horses and the public tables. In the night these<span class="pageno" id="Page_49">49</span> -messengers were lighted on their way by persons -running before them with torches; and when they -approached a posthouse, of which there were ten -thousand in the empire, they sounded a horn, as our -mail and stage coaches do, to inform the inmates of -their coming, that no delay might be experienced. -By this means, one of these couriers sometimes travelled -two hundred or two hundred and fifty miles in -a day. In desolate and uninhabited places, the -courses of the roads were marked by trees which -had been planted for the purpose; and in places -where nothing would vegetate, by stones or pillars.</p> - -<p class="c017">The manners, customs, and opinions of the people, -though apparently considered by Marco Polo as less -important than what regarded the magnificence and -greatness of the khan, commanded a considerable -share of our traveller’s attention. The religion of -Buddha, whose mysterious doctrines have eluded -the grasp of the most comprehensive minds even -up to the present moment, he could not be expected -to understand; but its great leading tenets, the unity -of the supreme God, the immortality of the soul, -the metempsychosis, and the final absorption of the -virtuous in the essence of the Divinity, are distinctly -announced. The manners of the Tartars were mild -and refined; their temper cheerful; their character -honest. Filial affection was assiduously cultivated, -and such as were wanting in this virtue were condemned -to severe punishment by the laws. Three -years’ imprisonment was the usual punishment for -heinous offences; but the criminals were marked -upon the cheek when set at liberty, that they might -be known and avoided.</p> - -<p class="c017">Agriculture has always commanded a large share -of the attention of the Chinese. The whole country -for many days’ journey west of Cambalu was -covered with a numerous population, distinguished -for their ingenuity and industry. Towns and cities -were numerous, the fields richly cultivated, and interspersed<span class="pageno" id="Page_50">50</span> -with vineyards or plantations of mulberry-trees. -On approaching the banks of the -Hoang-ho, which was so broad and deep that no -bridges could be thrown over it from the latitude of -Cambalu to the ocean, the fields abounded with -ginger and silk; and game, particularly pheasants, -were so abundant, that three of these beautiful birds -might be purchased for a Venetian groat. The -margin of the river was clothed with large forests -of bamboos, the largest, tallest, and most useful of -the cane species. Crossing the Hoang-ho, and proceeding -for two days in a westerly direction, you -arrived at the city of Karianfu, situated in a country -fertile in various kinds of spices, and remarkable for -its manufactories of silk and cloth of gold.</p> - -<p class="c017">This appears to have been the route pursued by -Marco Polo when proceeding as the emperor’s ambassador -into Western Tibet. Having travelled for -ten days through plains of surpassing beauty and -fertility, thickly sprinkled with cities, castles, towns, -and villages, shaded by vast plantations of mulberry-trees, -and cultivated like a garden, he arrived in the -mountainous district of the province of Chunchian, -which abounded with lions, bears, stags, roebucks, -and wolves. The country through which his route -now lay was an agreeable succession of hill, valley, -and plain, adorned and improved by art, or reluctantly -abandoned to the rude but sublime fantasies -of nature.</p> - -<p class="c017">On entering Tibet, indelible traces of the footsteps -of war everywhere smote upon his eye. The -whole country had been reduced by the armies of -the khan to a desert; the city, the cheerful village, -the gilded and gay-looking pagoda, the pleasant -homestead, and the humble and secluded cottage, -having been overthrown, and their smoking ruins -trampled in the dust, had now been succeeded by -interminable forests of swift-growing bamboos, from -between whose thick and knotty stems the lion, the<span class="pageno" id="Page_51">51</span> -tiger, and other ferocious animals rushed out suddenly -upon the unwary traveller. Not a soul appeared -to cheer the eye, or offer provisions for -money. All around was stillness and utter desolation. -And at night, when they desired to taste a -little repose, it was necessary to kindle an immense -fire, and heap upon it large quantities of green reeds, -which, by the crackling and hissing noise which -they made in burning, might frighten away the wild -beasts.</p> - -<p class="c017">This pestilential desert occupied him twenty days -in crossing, after which human dwellings, and other -signs of life, appeared. The manners of the people -among whom he now found himself were remarkably -obscene and preposterous. Improving upon the -superstitious libertinism of the ancient Babylonians, -who sacrificed the modesty of their wives and daughters -in the temple of Astarte once in their lives, these -Tibetians invariably prostituted their young women -to all strangers and travellers who passed through -their country, and made it a point of honour never -to marry a woman until she could exhibit numerous -tokens of her incontinence. Thieving, like want of -chastity, was among them no crime; and, although -they had begun to cultivate the earth, they still derived -their principal means of subsistence from the -chase. Their clothing was suitable to their manners, -consisting of the skins of wild beasts, or of a -kind of coarse hempen garment, less comfortable, -perhaps, and still more uncouth to sight. Though -subject to China, as it is to this day, the paper -money, current through all other parts of the empire, -was not in use here; nor had they any better -instrument of exchange than small pieces of -coral, though their mountains abounded with mines -of the precious metals, while gold was rolled down -among mud and pebbles through the beds of their -torrents. Necklaces of coral adorned the persons -of their women and their gods, their earthly and<span class="pageno" id="Page_52">52</span> -heavenly idols being apparently rated at the same -value. In hunting, enormous dogs, nearly the size -of asses, were employed.</p> - -<p class="c017">Still proceeding towards the west, he traversed -the province of Kaindu, formerly an independent -kingdom, in which there was an extensive salt-lake, -so profusely abounding with white pearls, that to -prevent their price from being immoderately reduced, -it was forbidden, under pain of death, to fish for -them without a license from the Great Khan. The -turquoise mines found in this province were under -the same regulations. The <i>gadderi</i>, or musk deer, -was found here in great numbers, as were likewise -lions, bears, stags, ounces, deer, and roebucks. The -clove, extremely plentiful in Kaindu, was gathered -from small trees not unlike the bay-tree in growth -and leaves, though somewhat longer and straighter: -its flowers were white, like those of the jasmin. -Here manners were regulated by nearly the same -principles as in the foregoing province, strangers -assuming the rights of husbands in whatever houses -they rested on their journey. Unstamped gold, -issued by weight, and small solid loaves of salt, -marked with the seal of the khan, were the current -money.</p> - -<p class="c017">Traversing the province of Keraian, of which -little is said, except that its inhabitants were pagans, -and spoke a very difficult language, our traveller -next arrived at the city of Lassa, situated on the -Dom or Tama river, a branch of the Bramahpootra. -This celebrated and extensive city, the residence of -the Dalai, or Great Lama, worshipped by the natives -as an incarnation of the godhead, was then the -resort of numerous merchants, and the centre of an -active and widely-diffused commerce. Complete -religious toleration prevailed, pagans, Mohammedans, -and Christians dwelling together apparently -in harmony; the followers of the established religion, -a modification of Buddhism, being however by<span class="pageno" id="Page_53">53</span> -far the most numerous. Though corn was here plentiful, -the inhabitants made no use of any other bread -than that of rice, which they considered the most -wholesome; and their wine, which was flavoured with -several kinds of spices, and exceedingly pleasant, they -likewise manufactured from the same grain. Cowries -seem to have been used for money. The inhabitants, -like the Abyssinians, ate the flesh of the ox, -the buffalo, and the sheep raw, though they do not -appear to have cut their steaks from the living animals. -Here, as elsewhere in Tibet, women were -subjected, under certain conditions, to the embraces -of strangers.</p> - -<p class="c017">From Lassa, Marco Polo proceeded to the province -of Korazan, where veins of solid gold were -found in the mountains, and washed down to the -plains by the waters of the rivers. Cowries were -here the ordinary currency. Among the usual articles -of food was the flesh of the crocodile, which -was said to be very delicate. The inhabitants carried -on an active trade in horses with India. In -their wars they made use of targets and other defensive -armour, manufactured, like the shields of -many of the Homeric heroes, from tough bull or -buffalo hide. Their arms consisted of lances or -spears, and crossbows, from which, like genuine -savages, they darted poisonous arrows at their foes. -When taken prisoners, they frequently escaped from -the evils of servitude by self-slaughter, always bearing -about their persons, like Mithridates and Demosthenes, -a concealed poison, by which they could at -any time open themselves a way to Pluto. Previous -to the Mongol conquests, these reckless savages -were in the habit of murdering in their sleep such -strangers or travellers as happened to pass through -their country, from the superstitious belief, it is said, -that the good qualities of the dead would devolve -upon those who killed them, of which it must be -confessed they stood in great need; and perhaps<span class="pageno" id="Page_54">54</span> -from the better grounded conviction that they should -thus, at all events, become the undoubted heirs of -their wealth.</p> - -<p class="c017">Journeying westward for five days our traveller -arrived at the province of Kardandan, where the -current money were cowries brought from India, -and gold in ingots. Gold was here so plentiful that -it was exchanged for five times its weight in silver; -and the inhabitants, who had probably been subject -to the toothache, were in the habit of covering their -teeth with thin plates of this precious metal, which, -according to Marco, were so nicely fitted that the -teeth appeared to be of solid gold. The practice of -tattooing, which seems to have prevailed at one -time or other over the whole world, was in vogue -here, men being esteemed in proportion as their -skins were more disfigured. Riding, hunting, and -martial exercises occupied the whole time of the -men, while the women, aided by the slaves who -were purchased or taken in war, performed all the -domestic labours. Another strange custom, the -cause and origin of which, though it has prevailed -in several parts of the world, is hidden in obscurity, -obtained here; when a woman had been delivered -of a child, she immediately quitted her bed, and -having washed the infant, placed it in the hands of -her husband, who, lying down in her stead, personated -the sick person, nursed the child, and remained -in bed six weeks, receiving the visits and -condolences of his friends and neighbours. Meanwhile -the woman bestirred herself, and performed -her usual duties as if nothing had happened. Marco -Polo could discover nothing more of the religious -opinions of this people than that they worshipped -the oldest man in their family, probably as the representative -of the generative principle of nature. -Broken, rugged, and stupendous mountains, no doubt -the Himmalaya, rendered this wild country nearly -inaccessible to strangers, who were further deterred<span class="pageno" id="Page_55">55</span> -by a report that a fatal miasma pervaded the air, -particularly in summer. The knowledge of letters -had not penetrated into this region, and all contracts -and obligations were recorded by tallies of wood, -as small accounts are still kept in Normandy, and -other rude provinces of Europe.</p> - -<p class="c017">Ignorance, priestcraft, and magic being of one -family, and thriving by each other, are always found -together. These savages, like Lear, had thrown -“physic to the dogs;” and when attacked by disease -preferred the priest or the magician to the doctor. -The priests, hoping to drive disease out of their -neighbour’s body by admitting the Devil into their -own, repaired, when called upon, to the chamber of -the sick person; and there sung, danced, leaped, and -raved, until a demon, in the language of the initiated, -or, in other words, weariness, seized upon them, -when they discontinued their violent gestures, and -consented to be interrogated. Their answer, of -course, was, that the patient had offended some god, -who was to be propitiated with sacrifice, which consisted -partly in offering up a portion of the patient’s -blood, not to the goddess Phlebotomy, as with us, -but to some member of the Olympian synod whose -fame has not reached posterity. In addition to this, -a certain number of rams with black heads were -sacrificed, their blood sprinkled in the air for the -benefit of the gods, and a great number of candles -having been lighted up, and the house thoroughly -perfumed with incense and wood of aloes, the -priests sat down with their wives and families to -dinner; and if after all this the sick man would persist -in dying, it was no fault of theirs. Destiny alone -was to blame.</p> - -<p class="c017">The next journey which Marco Polo undertook, -after his return from Tibet, was into the kingdom of -Mangi, or Southern China, subdued by the arms of -the khan in 1269. Fanfur, the monarch, who had -reigned previous to the irruption of the Mongols, is<span class="pageno" id="Page_56">56</span> -represented as a mild, beneficent, and peaceful prince, -intent upon maintaining justice and internal tranquillity -in his dominions; but wanting in energy, and -neglectful of the means of national defence. During -the latter years of his reign he had abandoned himself, -like another Sardanapalus, to sensuality and voluptuousness; -though, when the storm of war burst -upon him, he exhibited far less magnanimity than -that Assyrian Sybarite; flying pusillanimously to his -fleet with all his wealth, and relinquishing the defence -of the capital to his queen, who, as a woman, -had nothing to fear from the cruelty of the conqueror. -A foolish story, no doubt invented after the -fall of the city, is said to have inspired the queen -with confidence, and encouraged her to resist the -besiegers: the soothsayers, or haruspices, had assured -Fanfur, in the days of his prosperity, that no -man not possessing a hundred eyes should ever deprive -him of his kingdom. Learning, however, with -dismay that the name of the Tartar general now besieging -the place signified “the Hundred-eyed,” she -perceived the fulfilment of the prediction, and surrendered -up the city. Kublai Khan, agreeably to the -opinion of Fanfur, conducted himself liberally towards -the captive queen; who, being conveyed to -Cambalu, was received and treated in a manner suitable -to her former dignity. The dwarf-minded emperor -died about a year after, a fugitive and a vagabond -upon the earth.</p> - -<p class="c017">The capital of Southern China, called Quinsai, or -Kinsai, by Marco Polo, a name signifying the “Celestial -City,” was a place of prodigious magnitude, -being, according to the reports of the Chinese, not -less than one hundred miles in circumference. This -rough estimate of the extent of Kinsai, though beyond -doubt considerably exaggerated, is after all not -so very incredible as may at first appear. Within -this circumference, if the place was constructed after -the usual fashion of a Chinese city, would be included<span class="pageno" id="Page_57">57</span> -parks and gardens of immense extent, vast open -spaces for the evolutions of the troops, besides the -ten market-places, each two miles in circumference, -mentioned by Marco Polo, and many other large -spaces not covered with houses. By these means -Kinsai might have been nearly one hundred miles in -circuit, without approaching London in riches or -population. That modern travellers have found no -trace of such amazing extent in Hang-chen, Kua-hing, -or whatever city they determine Kinsai to have -been, by no means invalidates the assertion of Marco -Polo; for considering the revolutions which China -has undergone, and the perishable materials of the -ordinary dwellings of its inhabitants, we may look -upon the space of nearly six hundred years as more -than sufficient to have changed the site of Kinsai into -a desert. Were the seat of government to be removed -from Calcutta to Agra or Delhi, the revolution of -one century would reduce that “City of Palaces,” -to a miserable village, or wholly bury it in the pestilential -bog from which its sumptuous but perishable -edifices originally rose like an exhalation.</p> - -<p class="c017">I will suppose, therefore, in spite of geographical -skepticism, that Kinsai fell very little short of the -magnitude which the Chinese, not Marco Polo, attributed -to it. The city was nearly surrounded by -water, having on one side a great river, and on the -other side a lake, while innumerable canals, intersecting -it in all directions, rendered the very streets -navigable, as it were, like those of Venice, and floated -away all filth into the channel of the river. Twelve -thousand bridges, great and small, were thrown over -these canals, beneath which barks, boats, and barges, -bearing a numerous aquatic population, continually -passed to and fro; while horsemen dashed along, -and chariots rolled from street to street, above. -Three days in every week the peasantry from all the -country round poured into the city, to the number -of forty or fifty thousand, bringing in the productions<span class="pageno" id="Page_58">58</span> -of the earth, with cattle, fowls, game, and every -species of provision necessary for the subsistence -of so mighty a population. Though provisions were -so cheap, however, that two geese, or four ducks, -might be purchased for a Venetian groat, the poor -were reduced to so miserable a state of wretchedness -that they gladly devoured the flesh of the most -unclean animals, and every species of disgusting -offal. The markets were supplied with an abundance -of most kinds of fruit, among which a pear of peculiar -fragrance, and white and gold peaches, were the -most exquisite. Raisins and wine were imported -from other provinces; but from the ocean, which -was no more than twenty-five miles distant, so great -a profusion of fish was brought, that, at first sight, it -seemed as if it could never be consumed, though it -all disappeared in a few hours.</p> - -<p class="c017">Around the immense market-places were the shops -of the jewellers and spice-merchants; and in the adjoining -streets were numerous hot and cold baths, -with all the apparatus which belong to those establishments -in eastern countries. These places, as the -inhabitants bathed every day, were well frequented, -and the attendants accustomed to the business from -their childhood exceedingly skilful in the performance -of their duties. A trait which marks the voluptuous -temperament of the Chinese occurs in the account -of this city. An incredible number of courtesans, -splendidly attired, perfumed, and living with a large -establishment of servants in spacious and magnificent -houses, were found at Kinsai; and, like their -sisters in ancient Greece, were skilled in all those -arts which captivate and enslave enervated minds. -The tradesmen possessed great wealth, and appeared -in their shops sumptuously dressed in silks, in addition -to which their wives adorned themselves with -costly jewels. Their houses were well built, and -contained pictures and other ornaments of immense -value. In their dealings they were remarkable for<span class="pageno" id="Page_59">59</span> -their integrity, and great suavity and decorum appeared -in their manners. Notwithstanding the gentleness -of their disposition, however, their hatred of -their Mongol conquerors, who had deprived them of -their independence and the more congenial rule of -their native princes, was not to be disguised.</p> - -<p class="c017">All the streets were paved with stone, while the -centre was macadamized, a mark of civilization not -yet to be found in Paris, or many other European -capitals, any more than the cleanliness which accompanied -it. Hackney-coaches with silk cushions, -public gardens, and shady walks were among the -luxuries of the people of Kinsai; while, as Mr. Kerr -very sensibly remarks, the delights of European capitals -were processions of monks among perpetual -dunghills in narrow crooked lanes. Still, in the -midst of all this wealth and luxury, poverty and tremendous -suffering existed, compelling parents to sell -their children, and when no buyers appeared, to expose -them to death. Twenty thousand infants thus -deserted were annually snatched from destruction -by the Emperor Fanfur, and maintained and educated -until they could provide for themselves.</p> - -<p class="c017">Marco Polo’s opportunities for studying the customs -and manners of this part of the empire were -such as no other European has ever enjoyed, as, -through the peculiar affection of the Great Khan, he -was appointed governor of one of its principal cities, -and exercised this authority during three years. Yet, -strange to say, he makes no mention of tea, and alludes -only once, and that but slightly, to the manufacture -of porcelain. These omissions, however, are -in all probability not to be attributed to him, but to -the heedlessness or ignorance of transcribers and -copyists, who, not knowing what to make of the -terms, boldly omitted them. The most remarkable -manufacture of porcelain in his time appears to have -been at a city which he calls Trinqui, situated on one -branch of the river which flowed to Zaitum, supposed<span class="pageno" id="Page_60">60</span> -to be the modern Canton. Here he was informed a -certain kind of earth or clay was thrown up into vast -conical heaps, where it remained exposed to the -action of the atmosphere for thirty or forty years, -after which, refined, as he says, by time, it was -manufactured into dishes, which were painted and -baked in furnaces.</p> - -<p class="c017">Having now remained many years in China, the -Polos began to feel the desire of revisiting their -home revive within their souls; and this desire was -strengthened by reflecting upon the great age of the -khan, in the event of whose death it was possible -they might never be able to depart from the country, -at least with the amazing wealth which they had -amassed during their long residence. One day, -therefore, when they observed Kublai to be in a remarkably -good-humour, Nicolo, who seems to have -enjoyed a very free access to the chamber of the -sovereign, ventured to entreat permission to return -home with his family. The khan, however, who, -being himself at home, could comprehend nothing of -that secret and almost mysterious power by which -man is drawn back from the remotest corners of the -earth towards the scene of his childhood, and who, -perhaps, imagined that gold could confer irresistible -charms upon any country, was extremely displeased -at the request. He had, in fact, become attached to -the men, and his unwillingness to part with them -was as natural as their desire to go. To turn them -from all thoughts of the undertaking, he dwelt upon -the length and danger of the journey; and added, -that if more wealth was what they coveted, they had -but to speak, and he would gratify their utmost -wishes, by bestowing upon them twice as much as -they already possessed; but that his affection would -not allow him to part with them.</p> - -<p class="c017">Providence, however, which under the name of -chance or accident so frequently befriends the perplexed, -now came to their aid. Not long after the<span class="pageno" id="Page_61">61</span> -unsuccessful application of Nicolo, ambassadors -arrived at the court of the Great Khan, from Argûn, -Sultan of Persia, demanding a princess of the imperial -blood for their master, whose late queen on her -deathbed had requested him to choose a wife from -among her relations in Cathay. Kublai consented; -and the ambassadors departed with a youthful princess -on their way to Persia. When they had proceeded -eight months through the wilds of Tartary, -their course was stopped by bloody wars; and they -were constrained to return with the princess to the -court of the khan. Here they heard of Marco, who -had likewise just returned from an expedition into -India by sea, describing the facility which navigation -afforded of maintaining an intercourse between that -country and China. The ambassadors now procured -an interview with the Venetians, who consented, if -the permission of the khan could be obtained, to -conduct them by sea to the dominions of their sovereign. -With great reluctance the khan at length -yielded to their solicitation; and having commanded -Nicolo, Maffio, and Marco into his presence, and -lavished upon them every possible token of his affection -and esteem, constituting them his ambassadors -to the pope and the other princes of Europe, he -caused a tablet of gold to be delivered to them, upon -which were engraven his commands that they should -be allowed free and secure passage through all his -dominions; that all their expenses, as well as those -of their attendants, should be defrayed; and that -they should be provided with guides and escorts -wherever these might be necessary. He then exacted -from them a promise that when they should -have passed some time in Christendom among their -friends, they would return to him, and affectionately -dismissed them.</p> - -<p class="c017">Fourteen ships with four masts, of which four or -five were so large that they carried from two hundred -and fifty to two hundred and sixty men, were<span class="pageno" id="Page_62">62</span> -provided for their voyage; and on board of this fleet -they embarked with the queen and the ambassadors, -and sailed away from China. It was probably from -the officers of these ships, or from those with whom -he had made his former voyage to India, that Marco -Polo learned what little he knew of the great island -of Zipangri or Japan. It was about fifteen hundred -miles distant, as he was informed, from the shores -of China. The people were fair, gentle in their -manners, and governed by their own princes. Gold, -its exportation being prohibited, was plentiful among -them; so plentiful, indeed, that the roof of the -prince’s palace was covered with it, as churches in -Europe sometimes are with lead, while the windows -and floors were of the same metal. The prodigious -opulence of this country tempted the ambition or -rapacity of Kublai Khan, who with a vast fleet and -army attempted to annex it with his empire, but -without success. It was Marco’s brief description -of this insular El Dorado which is supposed to have -kindled the spirit of discovery and adventure in the -great soul of Columbus. Gentle as the manners of -the Japanese are said to have been, neither they nor -the Chinese themselves could escape the charge of -cannibalism, which appears to be among barbarians -what heresy was in Europe during the middle ages, -the crime of which every one accuses his bitterest -enemy. The innumerable islands scattered through -the surrounding ocean were said to abound with -spices and groves of odoriferous wood.</p> - -<p class="c017">The vast islands and thickly-sprinkled archipelagoes -which rear up their verdant and scented heads -among the waters of the Indian ocean, now successively -presented themselves to the observant eye -of our traveller, and appeared like another world. -Ziambar, with its woods of ebony; Borneo, with its -spices and its gold; Lokak, with its sweet fruits, its -Brazil wood, and its elephants;—these were the -new and strange countries at which they touched<span class="pageno" id="Page_63">63</span> -on the way to Java the less, or Sumatra. This -island, which he describes as two thousand miles in -circumference, was divided into eight kingdoms, six -of which he visited and curiously examined. Some -portion of the inhabitants had been converted to Mohammedanism; -but numerous tribes still roamed in -a savage state among the mountains, feeding upon -human flesh and every unclean animal, and worshipping -as a god the first object which met their eyes -in the morning. Among one of these wild races a -very extraordinary practice prevailed: whenever -any individual was stricken with sickness, his relations -immediately inquired of the priests or magicians -whether he would recover or not; and if answered -in the negative, the patient was instantly -strangled, cut in pieces, and devoured, even to the -very marrow of the bones. This, they alleged, was -to prevent the generation of worms in any portion -of the body, which, by gnawing and defacing it, would -torture the soul of the dead. The bones were -carefully concealed in the caves of the mountains. -Strangers, from the same humane motive, were -eaten in an equally friendly way.</p> - -<p class="c017">Here were numerous rhinoceroses, camphor, which -sold for its weight in gold, and lofty trees, ten or -twelve feet in circumference, from the pith of which -a kind of meal was made. This pith, having been -broken into pieces, was cast into vessels filled with -water, where the light innutritious parts floated -upon the top, while the finer and more solid descended -to the bottom. The former was skimmed -off and thrown away, but the latter, in taste not unlike -barley-bread, was wrought into a kind of paste, -and eaten. This was the sago, the first specimen -of which ever seen in Europe was brought to Venice -by Marco Polo. The wood of the tree, which was -heavy and sunk in water like iron, was used in -making spears.</p> - -<p class="c017">From Sumatra they sailed to the Nicobar and<span class="pageno" id="Page_64">64</span> -Andaman islands, the natives of which were naked -and bestial savages, though the country produced -excellent cloves, cocoanuts, Brazil wood, red and -white sandal wood, and various kinds of spices. -They next touched at Ceylon, which appeared to -Marco Polo, and not altogether without reason, to -be the finest island in the world. Here no grain, -except rice, was cultivated; but the country produced -a profusion of oil, sesamum, milk, flesh, palm -wine, sapphires, topazes, amethysts, and the best -rubies in the world. Of this last kind of gem the -King of Ceylon was said to possess the finest specimen -in existence, the stone being as long as a man’s -hand, of corresponding thickness, and glowing like -fire. The wonders of Adam’s Peak Marco Polo -heard of, but did not behold. His account of the -pearl-fishery he likewise framed from report.</p> - -<p class="c017">From Ceylon they proceeded towards the Persian -Gulf, touching in their way upon the coast of the -Carnatic, where Marco learned some particulars -respecting the Hindoos; as, that they were an unwarlike -people, who imported horses from Ormus, -and generally abstained from beef; that their rich -men were carried about in palankeens; and that -from motives of the origin of which he was ignorant, -every man carefully preserved his own drinking-vessels -from the touch of another.</p> - -<p class="c017">At length, after a voyage of eighteen months, they -arrived in the dominions of Argûn, but found that that -prince was dead, the heir to the throne a minor, and -the functions of government exercised by a regent. -They delivered the princess, who was now nearly -nineteen, to Kazan, the son of Argûn; and having -been magnificently entertained for nine months by -the regent, who presented them at parting with four -tablets of gold, each a cubit long and five fingers -broad, they continued their journey through Kurdistan -and Mingrelia, to Trebizond, where they embarked -upon the Black Sea; and, sailing down the<span class="pageno" id="Page_65">65</span> -Bosphorus and Dardanelles, crossed the Ægean, -touched at Negropont, and arrived safely at Venice, -in the year 1295.</p> - -<p class="c017">On repairing to their own house, however, in the -street of St. Chrysostom, they had the mortification -to find themselves entirely forgotten by all their old -acquaintance and countrymen; and even their nearest -relations, who upon report of their death had -taken possession of their palace, either could not or -would not recognise them. Forty-five years had no -doubt operated strange changes in the persons of -Nicolo and Maffio; and even Marco, who had left his -home in the flower of his youth, and now returned -after an absence of twenty-four years, a middle-aged -man, storm-beaten, and bronzed by the force of -tropical suns, must have been greatly altered. Besides, -they had partly forgotten their native language, -which they pronounced with a barbarous accent, -intermingling Tartar words, and setting the -rules of syntax at defiance. Their dress, air, and demeanour, -likewise, were Tartarian. To convince -the incredulous, however, and prove their identity, -they invited all their relations and old associates to -a magnificent entertainment, at which the three travellers -appeared attired in rich eastern habits of crimson -satin. When all the guests were seated, the -Polos put off their satin garments, which they bestowed -upon the attendants, still appearing superbly -dressed in robes of crimson damask. At the removal -of the last course but one of the entertainment, they -distributed their damask garments also upon the attendants, -these having merely concealed far more -magnificent robes of crimson velvet. When dinner -was over, and the attendants had withdrawn, Marco -Polo exhibited to the company the coats of coarse -Tartarian cloth, or felt, which his father, his uncle, -and himself had usually worn during their travels. -These he now cut open, and from their folds and -linings took out so prodigious a quantity of rubies,<span class="pageno" id="Page_66">66</span> -sapphires, emeralds, carbuncles, and diamonds, that -the company, amazed and delighted with the beauty -and splendour of these magnificent and invaluable -gems, no longer hesitated to acknowledge the claims -of the Polos, who, by the same arguments, might -have proved their identity with Prester John and his -family.</p> - -<p class="c017">The news of their arrival now rapidly circulated -through Venice, and crowds of persons of all ranks, -attracted, partly by their immense wealth, partly by -the strangeness of their recitals, flocked to their palace -to see and congratulate them upon their return. -The whole family was universally treated with distinction, -and Maffio, the elder of the brothers, became -one of the principal magistrates of the city. -Marco, as being the youngest, and probably the most -communicative of the three, was earnestly sought -after by the young noblemen of Venice, whom he entertained -and astonished by his descriptions of the -strange and marvellous things he had beheld; and as -in speaking of the subjects and revenues of the Great -Khan he was frequently compelled to count by millions, -he obtained among his companions the name -of <i>Marco Millione</i>. In the time of Ramusio the Polo -palace still existed in the street of St. Chrysostom, -and was popularly known by the name of the <i>Corte -del Millioni</i>. Some writers, however, have supposed -that this surname was bestowed on the Polos on -account of their extraordinary riches.</p> - -<p class="c017">Marco Polo had not been many months at Venice -before the news arrived that a Genoese fleet, under -the command of Lampa Doria, had appeared near -the island of Curzola, on the coast of Dalmatia. The -republic, alarmed at the intelligence, immediately -sent out a numerous fleet against the enemy, in which -Marco Polo, as an experienced mariner, was intrusted -with the command of a galley. The two -fleets soon came to an engagement, when Marco, -with that intrepid courage which had carried him<span class="pageno" id="Page_67">67</span> -safely through so many dangers, advanced with his -galley before the rest of the fleet, with the design of -breaking the enemy’s squadron. The Venetians, -however, who were quickly defeated, wanted the -energy to second his boldness; and Marco, who had -been wounded in the engagement, was taken prisoner -and carried to Genoa.</p> - -<p class="c017">Here, as at Venice, the extraordinary nature of his -adventures, the <i>naïveté</i> of his descriptions, and the -amiableness of his character soon gained him friends, -who not only delighted in his conversation, but exerted -all their powers to soften the rigours of his captivity. -Day after day new auditors flocked around -this new Ulysses, anxious to hear from his own lips -an account of the magnificence and grandeur of Kublai -Khan, and of the vast empire of the Mongols. -Wearied at length, however, with for ever repeating -the same things, he determined, in pursuance of the -advice of his new friends, to write the history of his -travels; and sending to Venice for the original notes -which he had made while in the East, compiled or -dictated the brief work which has immortalized his -memory. The work was completed in the year 1298, -when it may also be said to have been published, as -numerous copies were made and circulated.</p> - -<p class="c017">Meanwhile, his father and uncle, who had hitherto -looked to Marco for the continuation of the Polo -family, and who had vainly endeavoured by the offer -of large sums of money to redeem him from captivity, -began to deliberate upon the course which they ought -to adopt under the present circumstances; and it -was resolved that Nicolo, the younger and more -vigorous of the two, should himself marry. Four -years after this marriage, Marco was set at liberty -at the intercession of the most illustrious citizens of -Genoa; but on returning to Venice he found that -three new members had been added to the Polo -family during his absence, his father having had so -many sons by his young wife. Marco continued,<span class="pageno" id="Page_68">68</span> -however, to live in the greatest harmony and happiness -with his new relations; and shortly afterward -marrying himself, had two daughters, Maretta and -Fantina, but no sons. Upon the death of his father, -Marco erected a monument to his memory in the -portico of the church of St. Lorenzo, with an inscription -stating that it was built in honour of the traveller’s -father. Neither the exact date of his father’s -death nor of his own has hitherto been ascertained; -but it is supposed that our illustrious traveller’s decease -took place either in the year 1323 or 1324. -According to Mr. Marsden’s opinion, he was then -seventy years of age; but if we follow the opinion -of the majority of writers, and of M. Walkenaer -among the rest, he must have attained the age of -seventy-three or seventy-four. The male line of -the Polos became extinct in 1417, and the only surviving -female was married to a member of the noble -house of Trevisino, one of the most illustrious in -Venice.</p> - -<p class="c017">When the travels of Marco Polo first appeared, -they were generally regarded as a fiction; and this -absurd belief had so far gained ground, that when he -lay upon his deathbed, his friends and nearest relatives, -coming to take their eternal adieu, conjured -him, as he valued the salvation of his soul, to retract -whatever he had advanced in his book, or at least -such passages as every person looked upon as untrue; -but the traveller, whose conscience was untroubled -upon that score, declared solemnly in that -awful moment, that far from being guilty of exaggeration, -he had not described one-half of the wonderful -things which he had beheld. Such was the reception -which the discoveries of this extraordinary -man experienced when first promulgated. By degrees, -however, as enterprise lifted more and more -the veil from central and eastern Asia, the relations -of our traveller rose in the estimation of geographers; -and now that the world, though still containing many<span class="pageno" id="Page_69">69</span> -unknown tracts, has been more successfully explored, -we begin to perceive that Marco Polo, like -Herodotus, was a man of the most rigid veracity, -whose testimony presumptuous ignorance alone can -call in question.</p> - -<p class="c017">To relate the history of our traveller’s work since -its first publication would be a long and a dry task. -It was translated during his lifetime into Latin (for -the opinion of Ramusio that it was originally composed -in that language seems to be absurd), as well -as into several modern languages of Europe; and as -many of those versions were made, according to tradition, -under the author’s own direction, he is thought -to have inserted some numerous particulars which -were wanting in others; and in this way the variations -of the different manuscripts are accounted for. -The number of the translations of Marco Polo is -extraordinary; one in Portuguese, two in Spanish, -three in German, three in French, three or four in -Latin, one in Dutch, and seven in English. Of all -these numerous versions, that of Mr. Marsden is -generally allowed to be incomparably the best, whether -the correctness of the text or the extent, riches, -and variety of the commentary be considered.</p> - -<div class="pbb"> - <hr class="pb c004" /> -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="c012" id="IBN_BATUTA">IBN BATŪTA.</h2> -</div> - -<div class="nf-center-c0"> -<div class="nf-center c004"> - <div>Born about 1300.—Died after 1353.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class="c016"><span class="sc">This</span> traveller, whose name and works were little -known in Europe before the publication of Professor -Lee’s translation, was born at Tangiers, in Northern -Africa, about the year 1300. He appeared to be designed -by nature to be a great traveller. Romantic -in his disposition, a great lover of the marvellous, -and possessing a sufficient dash of superstition in his<span class="pageno" id="Page_70">70</span> -character to enable him everywhere to discover -omens favourable to his wishes, the slightest motives -sufficed to induce him to undertake at a day’s notice -the most prodigious journeys, though he could reckon -upon deriving from them nothing but the pleasure -of seeing strange sights, or of believing that he was -fulfilling thereby the secret intentions of Providence -respecting him.</p> - -<p class="c017">Being by profession one of those theologians who -in those times were freely received and entertained -by princes and the great in all Mohammedan countries, -he could apprehend no danger of wanting the -necessaries of life, and had before him at least the -chance, if not the certain prospect, of being raised -for his learning and experience to some post of distinction. -The first step in the adventures of all Mohammedan -travellers is, of course, the pilgrimage -to Mecca, as this journey confers upon them a kind -of sacred character, and the title of Hajjî, which is -a passport generally respected in all the territories -of Islamism.</p> - -<p class="c017">Ibn Batūta left his native city of Tangiers for the -purpose of performing the pilgrimage in the year of -the Hejira 725 (A. D. 1324-5). Traversing the Barbary -States and the whole breadth of Northern Africa, -probably in company with the great Mogrebine -caravan which annually leaves those countries for -Mecca, he arrived without meeting with any remarkable -adventure in Egypt, where, according to the -original design of his travels, he employed his time -in visiting the numerous saints and workers of miracles -with which that celebrated land abounded in -those days. Among the most distinguished of these -men then in Alexandria was the Imam Borhaneddin -el Aaraj. Our traveller one day visiting this man, -“Batūta,” said he, “I perceive that the passion of -exploring the various countries of the earth hath -seized upon thee!”—“I replied, Yes,” says the traveller, -“though I had at that time no intention of extending<span class="pageno" id="Page_71">71</span> -my researches to very distant regions.”—“I -have three brothers,” continued the saint, “of whom -there is one in India, another in Sindia, and the third -in China. You must visit those realms, and when -you see my brothers, inform them that they are still -affectionately remembered by Borhaneddin.”—“I -was astonished at what he said,” observes Batūta, -“and determined within myself to accomplish his -desires.” He in fact regarded the expressions of -this holy man as a manifestation of the will of -Heaven.</p> - -<p class="c017">Having thus conceived the bold design of exploring -the remotest countries of the East, Ibn Batūta -was impatient to be in motion; he therefore abridged -his visits to the saints, and proceeded on his journey. -Nevertheless, before his departure from this part of -Egypt he had a dream, which, being properly interpreted -by a saint, greatly strengthened him in his -resolution. Falling asleep upon the roof of a hermit’s -cell, he imagined himself placed upon the wings -of an immense bird, which, rising high into the air, -fled away towards the temple at Mecca. From -thence the bird proceeded towards Yarren, and, after -taking a vast sweep through the south and the regions -of the rising sun, alighted safely with his burden -in the land of darkness, where he deposited it, -and disappeared. On the morrow the sage hermit -interpreted this vision in the sense most consonant -with the wishes of the seer, and, presenting our -traveller with some dirhems and dried cakes, dismissed -him on his way. During the whole of his -travels Ibn Batūta met with but one man who equalled -this hermit in sanctity and wisdom, and observes, -that from the very day on which he quitted him he -experienced nothing but good fortune.</p> - -<p class="c017">At Damietta he saw the cell of the Sheïkh Jemaleddin, -leader of the sect of the Kalenders celebrated -in the Arabian Nights, who shave their chins and -their eyebrows, and spend their whole lives in the<span class="pageno" id="Page_72">72</span> -contemplation of the beatitude and perfection of God. -Journeying onwards through the cities and districts -of Fariskūr, Ashmūn el Rommān, and Samānūd, he -at length arrived at Misz, or Cairo, where he appears -to have first tasted the pure waters of the Nile, -which, in his opinion, excel those of all other rivers -in sweetness.</p> - -<p class="c017">Departing from Cairo, and entering Upper Egypt, -he visited, among other places, the celebrated monastery -of Clay and the minyet of Ibn Khasib. Upon -the mention of this latter place, he takes occasion to -relate an anecdote of a poet, which, because it is in -keeping with our notions of what a man of genius -should be, we shall here introduce. Ibn Khasib, -raised from a state of slavery to the government of -Egypt, and again reduced to beggary, and deprived -of sight by the caprice and cruelty of a calif of the -house of Abbas, had while in power been a munificent -patron and protector of literary men. Hearing -of his magnificence and generosity, a poet of Bagdad -had undertaken to celebrate his praises in verse; but -before he had had an opportunity of reciting his -work, Khasib was degraded from his high office, and -thrown out in blindness and beggary into the streets -of Bagdad. While he was wandering about in this -condition, the poet, who must have known him personally, -encountered him, and exclaimed, “O, Khasib, -it was my intention to visit thee in Egypt to -recite thy praises; but thy coming hither has rendered -my journey unnecessary. Wilt thou allow -me to recite my poem?”—“How,” said Khasib, -“shall I hear it? Thou knowest what misfortunes -have overtaken me!” The poet replied, “My only -wish is that thou shouldst hear it; but as to reward, -may God reward thee as thou hast others.” Khasib -then said, “Proceed with thy poem.” The poet -proceeded:—</p> - -<div class="lg-container-b"> -<div class="linegroup"> - <div class="group"> - <div class="line">“Thy bounties, like the swelling Nile,</div> - <div class="line">Made the plains of Egypt smile,” &c.</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pageno" id="Page_73">73</span></p> - -<p>When he had concluded, “Come here,” said Khasib, -“and open this seam.” He did so. Khasib -then said, “Take this ruby.” The poet refused; -but being adjured to do so, he complied, and went -away to the street of the jewellers to offer it for -sale. From the beauty of the stone, it was supposed -it could have belonged to no one but the calif, who, -being informed of the matter, ordered the poet -before him, and interrogated him respecting it. The -poet ingenuously related the whole truth; and the -tyrant, repenting of his cruelty, sent for Khasib, -overwhelmed him with splendid presents, and promised -to grant him whatever he should desire. Khasib -demanded and obtained the small minyet in Upper -Egypt in which he resided until his death, and where -his fame was still fresh when Ibn Batūta passed -through the country.</p> - -<p class="c017">Frustrated in his attempt to reach Mecca by this -route, after penetrating as far as Nubia, our traveller -returned to Cairo, and from thence proceeded by -way of the Desert into Syria. Here, like every other -believer in the Hebrew Scriptures, he found himself -in the midst of the most hallowed associations; and -strengthened at once his piety and his enthusiasm by -visiting the graves of Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob, as -well as the many spots rendered venerable by the -footsteps of Mohammed. As the believers in Islamism -entertain a kind of religious respect for the founder -of Christianity, whom they regard as a great -prophet, Batūta did not fail to include Bethlehem, -the birthplace of Christ, in the list of those places he -had to see. Upon this town, however, as well as upon -Jerusalem, Tyre, Sidon, and others of equal renown in -Syria, he makes few observations which can assist us -in forming an idea of the state of the country in those -times; but in return for this meagerness, he relates -a very extraordinary story of an alchymist, who had -discovered the secret of making gold, and exercised -his supernatural power in acts of beneficence.</p> - -<p><span class="pageno" id="Page_74">74</span></p> - -<p class="c017">From Syria he proceeded towards Mesopotamia, -by Emessa, Hameh, and Aleppo, and having traversed -the country of the Kurds, and visited the fortresses -of the Assassins, the people who, as he says, “act -as arrows for El Malik el Nāisr,” returned to Mount -Libanus, which he pronounces the most fruitful -mountain in the world, and describes as abounding -in various fruits, fountains of water, and leafy shades. -He then visited Baalbec and Damascus; and, after -remaining a short time at the latter city, departed -with the Syrian caravan for Mecca. His attempt to -perform the pilgrimage, a duty incumbent on all true -Mussulmans, was this time successful: the caravan -traversed the “howling wilderness” in safety; arrived -at the Holy City; and the pilgrims having duly -performed the prescribed rites, and spent three days -near the tomb of the prophet, at Medina, Ibn Batūta -joined a caravan proceeding through the deserts of -Nejed towards Persia.</p> - -<p class="c017">The early part of this journey offered nothing -which our traveller thought worthy of remark; but -he at length arrived at Kadisia, near Kufa, anciently -a great city, in the neighbourhood of which that decisive -victory was obtained by Saad, one of the generals -of Omar, over the Persians, which established -the interests of Islamism, and overthrew for ever -the power of the Ghebers. He next reached the city -of Meshed Ali, a splendid and populous place, where -the grave of Ali is supposed to be. The inhabitants, -of course, were Shiahs, but they were rich; and Ibn -Batūta, who was a tolerant man, thought them a -brave people. The gardens were surrounded by -plastered walls, adorned with paintings, and contained -carpets, couches, and lamps of gold and silver. -Within the city was a rich treasury, maintained by the -votive offerings of sick persons, who then crowded, -and still crowd, to the grave of Ali, from Room, -Khorasān, Irak, and other places, in the hope of receiving -relief. These people are placed over the<span class="pageno" id="Page_75">75</span> -grave a short time after sunset, while other persons, -some praying, others reciting the Koran, and others -prostrating themselves, attend expecting their recovery, -and before it is quite dark a miraculous cure -takes place. Our traveller, from some cause or -another, was not present on any of these occasions, -and remarks that he saw several afflicted persons -who, though they confidently looked forward to future -benefit had hitherto received none.</p> - -<p class="c017">The whole of that portion of Mesopotamia was at -this period in the power of the Bedouin Arabs, without -whose protection there was no travelling through -the country. With them, therefore, Ibn Batūta proceeded -from Basra, towards various holy and celebrated -places, among others to the tomb of “My -Lord Ahmed of Rephaā,” a famous devotee, whose -disciples still congregate about his grave, and kindling -a prodigious fire, walk into it, some eating it, -others trampling upon it, and others rolling in it, -till it be entirely extinguished, while others take -great serpents in their teeth, and bite the head off. -From hence he again returned to Basra, the neighbourhood -of which abounded with palm-trees. The -inhabitants were distinguished for their politeness -and humanity towards strangers. Here he saw the -famous copy of the Koran in which Othman, the -son of Ali, was reading when he was assassinated, -and on which the marks of his blood were still visible.</p> - -<p class="c017">Embarking on board a small boat, called a sambūk, -he descended the Tigris to Abbadān, whence it was -his intention to have proceeded to Bagdad; but, -adopting the advice of a friend at Basra, he sailed -down the Persian Gulf, and landing at Magul, crossed -a plain inhabited by Kurds, and arrived at a ridge of -very high mountains. Over these he travelled during -three days, finding at every stage a cell with -food for the accommodation of travellers. The -roads over these mountains were cut through the -solid rock. His travelling companions consisted of<span class="pageno" id="Page_76">76</span> -ten devotees, of whom one was a priest, another a -muezzin, and two professed readers of the Koran, to -all of whom the sultan of the country sent presents -of money.</p> - -<p class="c017">In ten days they arrived in the territories of Ispahan, -and remained some days at the capital, a large -and handsome city. From thence he soon departed -for Shiraz, which, though inferior to Damascus, was -even then an extensive and well-built city, remarkable -for the beauty of its streets, gardens, and waters. -Its inhabitants likewise, and particularly the women, -were persons of integrity, religion, and virtue; but -our singular traveller remarks, that for his part he -had no other object in going thither than that of -visiting the Sheïkh Majd Oddin, the paragon of saints -and workers of miracles! By this holy man he was -received with great kindness, of which he retained -so grateful a remembrance, that on returning home -twenty years afterward from the remotest countries -of the east, he undertook a journey of five-and-thirty -days for the mere purpose of seeing his ancient host.</p> - -<p class="c017">The greater portion of the early life of Ibn Batūta -was consumed in visiting saints, or the birthplaces -and tombs of saints: but his time was not therefore -misemployed; for, besides the positive pleasure -which the presence or sight of such objects appears -to have generated in his own mind, at every step he -advanced in this sacred pilgrimage his personal consequence, -and his claims upon the veneration and -hospitality of princes and other great men, were -increased. As he may be regarded as the representative -of a class of men extremely numerous in the -early ages of Islamism, and whose character and -mode of life are highly illustrative of the manners -of those times, it is important to follow the footsteps -of our traveller in his whimsical wanderings a little -more closely than would otherwise be necessary.</p> - -<p class="c017">Proceeding, therefore, at the heels of the honest -theologian, we next find him at Kazerun, beholding<span class="pageno" id="Page_77">77</span> -devoutly the tomb of the Sheïkh Abu Is-hāk, a saint -held in high estimation throughout India and China, -especially by sailors, who, when tossed about by adverse -or tempestuous winds upon the ocean, make -great vows to him, which, when safely landed, they -pay to the servants of his cell. From hence he proceeded -through various districts, many of which were -desert and uninhabitable, to Kufa and Hilla, whence, -having visited the mosque of the twelfth imam, -whose readvent is still expected by his followers, he -departed for Bagdad. Here, as at Rome or Athens, -the graves of great men abounded; so that Ibn -Batūta’s sympathies were every moment awakened, -and apparently too painfully; for, notwithstanding -that it was one of the largest and most celebrated -cities in the world, he almost immediately quitted it -with Bahadar Khan, sultan of Irak, whom he accompanied -for ten days on his march towards Khorasān. -Upon his signifying his desire to return, the prince -dismissed him with large presents and a dress of -honour, together with the means of performing the -pilgrimage to Mecca, which, as an incipient saint, he -imagined he could not too frequently repeat.</p> - -<p class="c017">Finding, on his return to Bagdad, that a considerable -time would elapse before the departure of the -caravan for the Holy City, he resolved to employ the -interval in traversing various portions of Mesopotamia, -and in visiting numerous cities which he had not -hitherto seen. Among these places the most remarkable -were Samarā, celebrated in the history of the -Calif Vathek; Mousul, which is said to occupy the -site of ancient Nineveh; and Nisibēn, renowned -throughout the east for the beauty of its position, -and the incomparable scent of the rose-water manufactured -there. He likewise spent some time at the -city and mountain of Sinjar, inhabited by that extraordinary -Kurdish tribe who, according to the -testimony of several modern travellers, pay divine -honours to the Devil.</p> - -<p><span class="pageno" id="Page_78">78</span></p> - -<p class="c017">This little excursion being concluded, Batūta found -the caravan in readiness to set out for Mecca, and -departing with it, and arriving safe in the Holy City, -he performed all the ceremonies and rites prescribed, -and remained there three years, subsisting upon the -alms contributed by the pious bounty of the inhabitants -of Irak, and conveyed to Mecca by caravans. -His travelling fit now returning, he left the birthplace -of the prophet, and repairing to Jidda, proceeded -with a company of merchants towards Yemen by sea. -After being driven by contrary winds to the coast of -Africa, and landing at Sūakin, he at length reached -Yemen; in the various cities and towns of which he -was entertained with a hospitality so generous and -grateful that he seems never to be tired of dwelling -on their praises. He did not, however, remain long -among his munificent hosts, but, taking ship at Aden, -passed over once more into Africa, and landed at -Zaila, a city of the Berbers. The inhabitants of this -place, though Mohammedans, were a rude, uncultivated -people, living chiefly upon fish and the flesh -of camels, which are slaughtered in the streets, -where their blood and offals were left putrefying to -infect the air. From this stinking city he proceeded -by sea to Makdasha, the Magadocia of the Portuguese -navigators; a very extensive place, where -the hospitable natives were wont, on the arrival of -a ship, to come down in a body to the seashore, and -select each his guest from among the merchants.—When -a theologian or a nobleman happened to be -among the passengers, he was received and entertained -by the kazi; and as Ibn Batūta belonged to -the former class he of course became the guest of -this magistrate. Here he remained a short time, -passing his days in banqueting and pleasure; and -then returned to Arabia.</p> - -<p class="c017">During the stay he now made in this country he -collected several particulars respecting the trade -and manners of the people, which are neither trifling<span class="pageno" id="Page_79">79</span> -nor unimportant. The inhabitants of Zafār, the -most easterly city of Yemen, carried on at that -period, he observes, a great trade in horses with -India, the voyage being performed in a month. The -practice he remarked among the same people of -feeding their flocks and herds with fish, and which, -he says, he nowhere else observed, prevails, however, -up to the present day, among the nations of -the Coromandel coast, as well as in other parts of -the east. At El Ahkāf, the city of the tribe of Aād, -there were numerous gardens, producing enormous -bananas, with the cocoanut and the betel. Our -fanciful traveller discovered a striking resemblance -between the cocoanut and a man’s head, observing -that exteriorly there was something resembling -eyes and a mouth, and that when young the pulp -within was like brains. To complete the similitude, -the hair was represented by the fibre, from which, -he remarks, cords for sewing together the planks -of their vessels, as also cordage and cables, were -manufactured. The nut itself, according to him, -was highly nourishing, and, like the betel-leaf, a -powerful aphrodisiac.</p> - -<p class="c017">Still pursuing his journey through Arabia, he -crossed the desert of Ammān, and met with a people -extraordinary among Mahommedans, whose -wives were liberal of their favours, without exciting -the jealousy of their husbands, and who, moreover, -considered it lawful to feed upon the flesh of the -domestic ass. From thence he crossed the Persian -Gulf to Hormuz, where, among many other extraordinary -things, he saw the head of a fish resembling -a hill, the eyes of which were like two doors, -so that people could walk in at one eye and out at -the other! He now felt himself to be within the -sphere of attraction of an object whose power he -could never resist. There was, he heard, at Janja-bal, -a certain saint, and of course he forthwith -formed the resolution to refresh himself with a<span class="pageno" id="Page_80">80</span> -sight of him. He therefore crossed the sea, and -hiring a number of Turcomans, without whose protection -there was no travelling in that part of the -country, entered a waterless desert, four days’ journey -in extent, over which the Bedouins wander in -caravans, and where the death-bearing simoom -blows during the hot months of summer. Having -passed this desolate and dreary tract, he arrived in -Kusistān, a small province of Persia, bordering upon -Laristān, in which Janja-bal, the residence of the -saint, was situated. The sheïkh, who was secretly, -or, as the people believed, miraculously, supplied -with a profusion of provisions, received our traveller -courteously, sent him fruit and food, and contrived -to impress him with a high idea of his -sanctity.</p> - -<p class="c017">He now entered upon the ancient kingdom of -Fars, an extensive and fertile country, abounding in -gardens producing a profusion of aromatic herbs, -and where the celebrated pearl-fisheries of Bahrein, -situated in a tranquil arm of the sea, are found. -The pearl divers employed here were Arabs, who, -tying a rope round their waists, and wearing upon -their faces a mask made of tortoise-shell, descended -into the water, where, according to Batūta, some -remained an hour, others two, searching among -forests of coral for the pearls.</p> - -<p class="c017">Ibn Batūta was possessed by an extraordinary -passion for performing the pilgrimage to Mecca; and -now (A. D. 1332), the year in which El Malik El -Nāsir, sultan of Egypt, visited the holy city, set out -from Persia on his third sacred expedition. Having -made the necessary genuflexions, and kissed the -black stone at the Kaaba, he began to turn his -thoughts towards India, but was prevented, we -know not how, from carrying his design into execution; -and traversing a portion of Arabia and -Egypt, entered Room or Turkey. Here, in the -province of Anatolia, he was entertained by an<span class="pageno" id="Page_81">81</span> -extraordinary brotherhood, to whom, as to all his -noble hosts and entertainers, he devotes a portion -of his travels. This association, which existed in -every Turcoman town, consisted of a number of -youths, who, under the direction of one of the members, -called “the brother,” exercised the most generous -hospitality towards all strangers, and were -the vigorous and decided enemies of oppression. -Upon the formation of one of these associations, -the brother, or president, erected a cell, in which -were placed a horse, a saddle, and whatever other -articles were considered necessary. The president -himself, and every thing in the cell, were always at -the service of the members, who every evening -conveyed the product of their industry to the president, -to be sold for the benefit of the cell; and -when any stranger arrived in the town, he was here -hospitably entertained, and contributed to increase -the hilarity of the evening, which was passed in -feasting, drinking, singing, and dancing.</p> - -<p class="c017">Travelling to Iconium, and other cities of Asia -Minor, in all of which he was received and entertained -in a splendid manner, while presents of -slaves, horses, and gold were sometimes bestowed -upon him, he at length took ship at Senab, and -sailed for Krim Tartary. During the voyage he -endured great hardships, and was very near being -drowned; but at length arrived at a small port on -the margin of the desert of Kifjāk, a country over -which Mohammed Uzbek Khan then reigned. Being -desirous of visiting the court of this prince, Ibn -Batūta now hired one of those arabahs, or carts, in -which the inhabitants travel with their families -over those prodigious plains, where neither mountain -nor hill nor tree meets the eye, and where the dung -of animals serves as a substitute for fuel, and entered -upon a desert of six months’ extent. Throughout -these immense steppes, which are denominated -<i>desert</i> merely in reference to their comparative<span class="pageno" id="Page_82">82</span> -unproductiveness, our traveller found cities, but -thinly scattered; and vast droves of cattle, which, -protected by the excessive severity of the laws, -wandered without herdsmen or keepers over the -waste. The women of the country, though they -wore no veils, were virtuous, pious, and charitable; -and consequently were held in high estimation.</p> - -<p class="c017">Arriving at the <i>Bish Tag</i>, or “Five Mountains,” -he there found the <i>urdu</i> (whence our word <i>horde</i>) or -camp of the sultan, a moving city, with its streets, -palaces, mosques, and cooking houses, “the smoke -of which ascended as they moved along.” Mohammed -Uzbek, then sovereign of Kifjāk, was a brave -and munificent prince; and Ibn Batūta, having, according -to Tartar etiquette, first paid a visit of ceremony -to each of his wives, was politely received by -him.</p> - -<p class="c017">From this camp our traveller set out, with guides -appointed by the sultan, for the city of Bulgār, -which, according to the Maresid Al Etluā, is situated -in Siberia. Here, in exemplification of the extreme -shortness of the night, he observes, that -while repeating the prayer of sunset he was overtaken, -though he by no means lagged in his devotions, -by the time for evening prayer, which was no -sooner over than it was time to begin that of midnight; -and that before he could conclude one voluntary -orison, which he added to this, the dawn had -already appeared, and morning prayer was to be -begun. Forty days’ journey to the north of this -place lay the land of darkness, where, he was told, -people travelled over interminable plains of ice and -snow, on small light sledges, drawn by dogs; but -he was deterred from pushing his researches into -these Cimmerian regions by the fear of danger, and -considerations of the inutility of the journey. He -returned, therefore, to the camp of the sultan.</p> - -<p class="c017">Mohammed Uzbek had married a daughter of the -Greek Emperor of Constantinople, who, being at<span class="pageno" id="Page_83">83</span> -this time pregnant, requested his permission to be -confined in her father’s palace, where it was her intention -to leave her child. The sultan consented, -and Ibn Batūta, conceiving that an excellent opportunity -for visiting the Greek capital now presented -itself, expressed a desire to accompany the princess, -but the sultan, who regarded him apparently as -something too gay for a saint, at first refused to -permit him. Upon his pressing the matter, however, -representing that he should never appear before -the queen but as his servant and guest, so that -no fears need be entertained of him, the royal husband, -relenting, allowed him to go, and presented -him, on his departure, with fifteen hundred dinars, a -dress of honour, and several horses; while each of -his sultanas, together with his sons and daughters, -caused the traveller to taste of their bounty.</p> - -<p class="c017">The queen, while she remained in her husband’s -territories, respected the religion and manners of -the Mohammedans; but she had no sooner entered -her father’s dominions, and found herself surrounded -by her countrymen, than she drank wine, dismissed -the ministers of Islamism, and was reported to -commit the abomination of eating swine’s flesh. -Ibn Batūta was still treated with respect, however, -and continuing to be numbered among the suite of -the sultana, arrived at length at Constantinople, -where, in his zeal to watch over the comfort of his -royal mistress, he exposed himself to the risk of -being squeezed to death in the crowd. On entering -the city, his ears appear to have been much annoyed -by the ringing of numerous bells, which, with -the inveterate passion of all Europeans for noise -when agitated by any joyous emotions, the Greeks -of Constantinople substituted for their own voices -in the expression of their satisfaction.</p> - -<p class="c017">Remaining about five weeks in Constantinople, -where, owing to the difference of manners, language, -and religion, he does not appear to have<span class="pageno" id="Page_84">84</span> -tasted of much pleasure, he returned to Mohammed -Uzbek, whose bounty enabled him to pursue his -journey towards the east in a very superior style. -The country to which his desires now pointed was -Khavāresm, the road thither traversing, during the -greater part of the way, a barren desert, where little -water and a very scanty herbage were to be found. -Crossing this waste in a carriage drawn by camels, -he arrived at Khavāresm, the largest city at that -period possessed by the Turks. Here he found the -people friendly towards strangers, liberal, and well-bred,—and -no wonder; for in every mosque a whip -was hung up, with which every person who absented -himself from church was soundly flogged by -the priest, besides being fined in five dinars. This -practice, which Ibn Batūta thought highly commendable, -no doubt contributed greatly towards -rendering the people liberal and well-bred. Next -to the refinement of the people, the most remarkable -thing he observed at Khavāresm was a species -of melon, green on the outside, and red within, -which, being cut into thin oblong slices and dried, -was packed up in cases like figs, and exported to -India and China. Thus preserved, the Khavāresm -melon was thought equal to the best dried fruits in -the world, and regarded as a present worthy of -kings.</p> - -<p class="c017">From hence Ibn Batūta departed for Bokhāra, a -city renowned throughout the east for the learning -and refinement of its inhabitants, but at this period -so reduced and impoverished by the long wars of -Genghis Khan and his successors, that not one man -was to be found in it who understood any thing of -science. Leaving this ancient seat of oriental learning, -he proceeded to Māwarā El Nahr, the sultan of -which was a just and powerful prince, who received -him hospitably, and furnished him with funds to pursue -his wanderings. He next visited Samarkand, -Balkh, and Herat, in Khorasān; and scaling the<span class="pageno" id="Page_85">85</span> -snowy heights of the Hindoo Koosh, or Hindoo-Slayer, -so called because most of the slaves attempted -to be carried out of India by this route are -killed by the severity of the cold, he entered Kabul. -Here, in a cell of the mountain called Bashāi, he -found an old man, who, though he had the appearance -of being about fifty, pretended to be three hundred -and fifty years old, and assured Ibn Batūta that at -the expiration of every hundred years he was blessed -with a new growth of hair and new teeth, and that, -in fact, he was the Rajah Aba Rahim Ratan of India, -who had been buried in Mooltam. Notwithstanding -his innate veneration for every thing saintly, and this -man bore the name of <i>Ata Evlin</i>, or “Father of -Saints,” our honest traveller could not repress the -doubts which arose in his mind respecting his extraordinary -pretensions, and observes in his travels -that he much <i>doubted</i> of what he was, and that he -continued to doubt.</p> - -<p class="c017">Ibn Batūta now crossed the Indus, and found himself -in Hindostan, where, immediately upon his -arrival, he met, in a city which he denominates Janai, -one of the three brothers of Borhaneddin, the -Egyptian saint, whose prediction, strengthening his -natural bent of mind, had made a great traveller of -him. Traversing the desert of Sivastān, where the -Egyptian thorn was the only tree to be seen, and -then descending along the banks of the Sinde, or -Indus, he arrived at the city of Lahari, on the seashore, -in the vicinity of which were the ruins of an -ancient city, abounding with the sculptured figures -of men and animals, which the superstitious natives -supposed to be the real forms of the ancient inhabitants -transformed by the Almighty into stone for their -wickedness.</p> - -<p class="c017">At Uja, a large city on the Indus, our traveller -contracted a friendship with the Emīr Jelaleddin, -then governor of the place, a brave and generous -prince, whom he afterward met at Delhi. In journeying<span class="pageno" id="Page_86">86</span> -eastward from this place, Batūta proceeded -through a desert lying between two ridges of -mountains, inhabited by Hindoos, whom the traveller -terms infidel and rebellious, because they adhered to -the faith of their ancestors, and refused submission -to the power of the Mohammedan conquerors of -their country. Ibn Batūta’s party, consisting of -twenty-two men, was here attacked by a large body -of natives, which they succeeded in repulsing, after -they had killed thirteen of their number. In the -course of this journey he witnessed the performance -of a suttee, and remarks upon the occasion, that -these human sacrifices were not absolutely required -either by the laws or the religion of Hindostan; but -that, owing to the vulgar prejudice which regarded -those families as ennobled who thus lost one of their -members, the practice was greatly encouraged.</p> - -<p class="c017">On arriving at Delhi, which, for strength, beauty, -and extent, he pronounces the greatest city, not only -of all Hindostan, but of all Islamism in the east, he -resorted to the palace of the queen-mother and presenting -his presents, according to custom, was graciously -received and magnificently established by -the bounty of that princess and the vizier. It is to -be presumed, that the money he had received in -presents from various princes on the way had exceeded -his travelling expenses, and gone on accumulating, -until, on his arrival at Delhi, it amounted to a -very considerable sum; for with his house, costly -furniture, and forty attendants, his expenditure seems -greatly to have exceeded the munificence of his -patrons; indeed, he very soon found that all the resources -he could command were too scanty to supply -the current of his extravagance.</p> - -<p class="c017">Being of the opinion of that ancient writer who -thought a good companion better than a coach on a -journey, Ibn Batūta appears to have increased his -travelling establishment with a mistress, by whom -he seems to have had several children, for shortly<span class="pageno" id="Page_87">87</span> -after his arrival at the capital, he informs us that “a -daughter of his,” evidently implying that he had -more than one, happened to die. At this time our -worthy theologian was so deeply intoxicated with -the fumes of that vanity which usually accompanies -the extraordinary smiles of fortune, that, although -by no means destitute of natural affection, nothing -in the whole transaction appears to have made any -impression upon his mind except the honour conferred -upon him by the condescension of the vizier -and the emperor. The latter, then at a considerable -distance from the capital, on being informed of -the event, commanded that the ceremonies and rites -usually performed at the funeral of the children of -the nobility should now take place; and accordingly, -on the third day, when the body was to be removed -to its narrow house, the vizier, the judges, and the -nobles entered the chamber of mourning, spread a -carpet, and made the necessary preparations, consisting -of incense, rose-water, readers of the Koran, -and panegyrists. Our traveller, who anticipated -nothing of all this, confesses ingenuously that he -was “much gratified.” To the mother of the child -the queen-mother showed the greatest kindness, presenting -her with magnificent dresses and ornaments, -and a thousand dinars in money.</p> - -<p class="c017">The Emperor Mohammed having been absent from -Delhi ever since our traveller’s arrival, he had -hitherto found no opportunity of presenting himself -before the “Lord of the World;” but upon that great -personage’s returning, soon after the funeral, the -vizier undertook to introduce him to the presence. -The emperor received him graciously, taking him -familiarly by the hand, and, in the true royal style, -lavishing the most magnificent promises. As an -earnest of his future bounty, he bestowed upon each -of the many travellers who were presented at the -same time, and met with the same reception, a gold-embroidered -dress, which he had himself worn; a<span class="pageno" id="Page_88">88</span> -horse from his own stud, richly caparisoned with -housings and saddle of silver; and such refreshments -as the imperial kitchen afforded. Three days -afterward Ibn Batūta was appointed one of the judges -of Delhi, on which occasion the vizier observed to -him, “The Lord of the World appoints you to the -office of judge in Delhi. He also gives you a dress -of honour with a saddled horse, as also twelve thousand -dinars for your present support. He has moreover -appointed you a yearly salary of twelve thousand -dinars, and a portion of lands in the villages, -which will produce annually an equal sum.” He -then did homage and withdrew.</p> - -<p class="c017">The fortune of Ibn Batūta was now changed. -From the condition of a religious adventurer, wandering -from court to court, and from country to -country, subsisting upon the casual bounty of the -great, he had now been elevated to a post of great -honour and emolument in the greatest city then -existing in the world. But it is very certain he was -not rendered happier by this promotion. The monarch -upon whose nod his destiny now depended -was a man of changeful and ferocious nature, profuse -and lavish in the extreme towards those whom -he affected, but when provoked, diabolically cruel -and revengeful. In the very first conference which -our traveller held with his master after his appointment, -he made a false step, and gave offence; for -when the emperor had informed him that he would -by no means find his office a sinecure, he replied -that he belonged to the sect of Ibn Malik, whereas -the people of Delhi were followers of Hanīfa; and -that, moreover, he was ignorant of their language. -This would have been a good reason why he should -not in the first instance have accepted the office of -judge; but, having accepted of it, he should by no -means have brought forward his sectarian prejudices, -or his ignorance, in the hope of abridging the extent -of his duties. The emperor, with evident displeasure,<span class="pageno" id="Page_89">89</span> -rejoined, that he had appointed two learned -men to be his deputies, and that these would advise -him how to act. He moreover added, that it would -be his business to sign all legal instruments.</p> - -<p class="c017">Notwithstanding the profuse generosity of Mohammed -Khan, Ibn Batūta, who seems to have understood -nothing of domestic economy, soon found -himself prodigiously in debt; but his genius, fertile -in expedients, and now sharpened by necessity, soon -hit upon an easy way of satisfying his creditors. -Observing that, like most of his countrymen, Mohammed -Khan was an admirer of Arabian poetry, more -particularly of such as celebrated his own praises, -our theological judge, whose conscience seems to -have been hushed to silence by his embarrassments, -composed in Arabic a panegyric upon his patron, -who, to borrow his own expression, “was wonderfully -pleased with it.” Taking advantage, like a thoroughbred -courtier, of this fit of good-humour, he disclosed -the secret of his debt, which the emperor, who now, -no doubt, perceived the real drift of the panegyric, -ordered to be discharged from his own treasury; -but added, however, “Take care, in future, not to -exceed the extent of your income.” Upon this the -traveller, whether pleased with his generosity or his -advice we will not determine, exclaims, “May God -reward him!”</p> - -<p class="c017">No great length of time had elapsed, however, -before Ibn Batūta perceived that his grandeur had -conducted him to the edge of a precipice. Having, -during a short absence of the emperor, visited a -certain holy man who resided in a cell without the -city, and had once been in great favour with Mohammed -himself, our traveller received an order to -attend at the gate of the palace, while a council sat -within. In most cases this was the signal of death. -But in order to mollify the Fates, Ibn Batūta betook -himself to fasting, subsisting, during the four days -in which he thus attended, upon pure water, and<span class="pageno" id="Page_90">90</span> -mentally repeating thirty-three thousand times that -verse of the Koran which says, “God is our support, -and the most excellent patron.” The aquatic -diet and the repetitions prevailing, he was acquitted, -while every other person who had visited the sheïkh -was put to death. Perceiving that the risks incurred -by a judge of Delhi were at least equal to the emolument, -Ibn Batūta began to feel his inclination for -his own free roaming mode of life return, resigned -his perilous office, bestowed all the wealth he possessed -upon the fakeers, and bidding adieu to the -splendid vanities of the world, donned the tunic of -these religious mendicants, and attached himself during -five months to the renowned Sheïkh Kamāleddin -Abdallah El Ghazi, a man who had performed -many open miracles.</p> - -<p class="c017">Mohammed Khan, conceiving that the ex-judge -had now performed sufficient penance for his indiscretion, -sent for him again, and receiving him more -graciously than ever, observed, “Knowing the delight -you experience in travelling into various countries, -I am desirous of sending you on an embassy -into China.” Ibn Batūta, who appears by this time -to have grown thoroughly tired of a fakeer’s life, -very readily consented, and forthwith received those -dresses of honour, horses, money, &c. which invariably -accompanied such an appointment. Ambassadors -had lately arrived from the Emperor of -China with numerous costly presents for the khan, -and requesting permission to rebuild an idol temple -within the limits of Hindostan. Mohammed Khan, -though, as a true Mussulman, he could not grant -such permission unless tribute were paid, was now -about to despatch ambassadors to his brother of -China, “bearing, in proof of his greatness and munificence, -presents much more valuable than those -he had received.” These presents, as highly illustrative -of the manners of those times and countries, -we shall enumerate in the words of the traveller<span class="pageno" id="Page_91">91</span> -himself; they consisted of the following articles:—One -hundred horses of the best breed, saddled and -bridled; one hundred Mamlūks; one hundred Hindoo -singing slave girls; one hundred Bairami dresses, -the value of each of which was a hundred dinars; -one hundred silken dresses; five hundred saffron-coloured -dresses; one hundred pieces of the best -cotton cloth; one thousand dresses of the various -clothing of India; with numerous instruments of -gold and silver, swords and quivers set with jewels, -and ten robes of honour wrought with gold, of the -sultan’s own dresses, with various other articles.</p> - -<p class="c017">Ibn Batūta was accompanied on this mission by -one of the chief of the Ulema, and by a favourite -officer of the emperor, who was intrusted with the -presents; and a guard of a thousand cavalry was -appointed to conduct them to the seaport where -they were to embark. The Chinese ambassadors -and their suite returned homeward in their company. -The embassy left Delhi in the year 1342, but had -not proceeded far before they encountered a serious -obstacle to their movements, and found themselves -engaged in warlike operations. El Jalali, a city -lying in their route, being besieged by the Hindoos, -Ibn Batūta and his companions determined, like true -Mussulmans, to unite with their distressed brethren -in repelling the infidel forces, and in the commencement -their valour was rewarded by success; but a -great number of their troop suffering “martyrdom,” -and among the rest the officer who had been intrusted -with the care of the present, it was judged -necessary to transmit an account of what had taken -place to Delhi, and await the further commands of -the “Lord of the World.” In the mean while the -Hindoos, though, according to Ibn Batūta, thoroughly -subdued, if not exterminated, continued their attacks -upon the Moslems; and during one of these affrays -our valiant traveller was accidentally placed in the -greatest jeopardy. Having joined his coreligionists<span class="pageno" id="Page_92">92</span> -in pursuing the vanquished Hindoos, he suddenly -found himself and five others separated from the -main body of the army, and pursued in their turn by -the enemy. At length his five companions, escaping -in different directions, or falling by the sword of the -Hindoos, disappeared, and he was thus left alone in -the midst of the most imminent danger. Just at -this moment the forefeet of his horse sticking fast -between two stones, he dismounted to set the beast -at liberty, and observed, that having entered the -mouth of a valley his pursuers had lost sight of him, -as he had of them. Of the country, however, the -towns, the roads, and the rivers he was totally ignorant; -so that, thinking his horse as good a judge of -what was best as himself in the present dilemma, -he permitted the animal to select his own path. -The horse, imagining, perhaps, that shade and safety -were synonymous, proceeded towards a part of the -valley where the trees were closely interwoven, -but had no sooner reached it than a party of about -forty cavalry rushed out, and made our ambassador -prisoner.</p> - -<p class="c017">Ibn Batūta, who immediately alighted from his -charger, now began to believe that all his journeyings -were at an end; and that, notwithstanding his -dreams, and the predictions of many saints, he was -doomed never to behold China, or the second and -third brothers of the Sheïkh Borhaneddin. To -corroborate his apprehensions the Hindoos plundered -him of all he possessed, bound his arms, and, -taking him along with them, travelled for two days -through a country unknown to our traveller, who, -not understanding the language or manners of his -captors, imagined they intended to kill, and, perhaps, -to eat him. From these fears he was soon delivered, -however, for at the end of two days, the Hindoos, -supposing, no doubt, that they had terrified him sufficiently, -gave him his liberty, and rode away. The -shadows of his past apprehensions still haunting<span class="pageno" id="Page_93">93</span> -him, he no sooner found himself alone than plunging -into the depths of an almost impenetrable forest he -sought among the haunts of wild animals an asylum -from the fury of man. Here he subsisted seven -days upon the fruit and leaves of the mountain trees, -occasionally venturing out to examine whither the -neighbouring roads might lead, but always finding -them conduct him towards ruins or the abode of -Hindoos.</p> - -<p class="c017">On the seventh day of his concealment he met -with a black man, who politely saluted him, and, the -salute being returned, demanded his name. Having -satisfied the stranger upon this point, our traveller -made the same demand, and the stranger replied -that he was called El Kalb El Karīh (the “Wounded -Heart”). He then gave Ibn Batūta some pulse to -eat, and water to drink, and, observing that he was -too weak to walk, took him upon his shoulders and -carried him along. In this position our traveller -fell asleep, and his nap must have been a long one, -for, awaking about the dawn of the next day, he -found himself at the gate of the emperor’s palace. -What became of his extraordinary charger he does -not inform us; but the emperor, who had already -received by a courier the news of his misfortunes, -bestowed upon him ten thousand dinars, to console -him for his losses, and once more equipped him for -his journey. Another officer was sent to take -charge of the present, returning with whom to the -city of Kul, he rejoined his companions, and proceeded -on his mission.</p> - -<p class="c017">Proceeding by the way of Dowlutabad, Nazarabad, -Canbaza, and Pattan, he at length arrived at -Kalikut in Malabar, where the whole party were to -embark for China. Here, not having properly timed -their arrival, our sage ambassadors had to remain -three months, waiting for a favourable wind. When -the season for departure had arrived, the other -members of the embassy embarked with the present;<span class="pageno" id="Page_94">94</span> -but Ibn Batūta, finding the cabin which had been -assigned him much too small to contain his baggage -and the multitude of slave girls, remained on shore -for the purpose of bargaining for a larger vessel, and -hearing divine service on the next day. During the -night a tempest arose, which drove several of the -junks upon the shore, where a great number of the -crew and passengers perished. The ship which -contained the imperial present weathered the storm -until the morning, when our traveller, descending to -the beach, beheld her tossed about upon the furious -waves, while the officers of the emperor prostrated -themselves upon the deck in despair. Presently she -struck upon the rocks, and every soul on board -perished. A part of the fleet, among the rest the -vessel containing our traveller’s property, sailed -away, and of the fate of the greater number of them -nothing was ever known. The whole of Ibn Batūta’s -wealth now consisted of a prostration carpet and -ten dinars; but being told that in all probability the -ship in which he had embarked his fortune had put -into Kawlam, a city ten days’ journey distant, he -proceeded thither, but upon his arrival found that -his hopes had been buoyed up in vain.</p> - -<p class="c017">He was now in the most extraordinary dilemma -in which he had ever been placed. Knowing the -fierce and unreflecting character of the emperor, -who, without weighing his motives, would condemn -him for having remained on shore; and being too -poor to remain where he was, he could not for some -time determine how to act. At length, however, he -resolved to visit the court of Jemaleddin, king of -Hinaur, who received him kindly, and allowed him -to become reader to the royal mosque. Shortly -afterward, having been encouraged thereto by a -favourable omen, obtained from a sentence of the -Koran, he accompanied Jemaleddin in an expedition -against the island of Sindibur, which was subdued -and taken possession of. To console Ibn Batūta<span class="pageno" id="Page_95">95</span> -for the many misfortunes he had lately endured, -Jemaleddin presented him with a slave girl, clothing, -and other necessaries; and he remained with him -several months. Still, however, he was not reconciled -to the loss of his pretty female slave and other -property which had been embarked in the Chinese -ship, and requested the king’s permission to make a -voyage to Kawlam for the purpose of making inquiries -concerning it. His request being granted, he -proceeded to Kawlam, where, to his great grief, he -learned that his former mistress had died, and that -his property had been seized upon by the “infidels,” -while his followers had found other masters.</p> - -<p class="c017">This affair being thus at an end, he returned to -Sindibur, where he found his friend Jemaleddin -besieged by an infidel king. Not being able to enter -the city, he embarked, without delay, for the Maldive -Islands, all parts of the earth being now much -alike to him, and after a ten days’ voyage arrived at -that extraordinary archipelago. Here, after dwelling -upon the praises of the cocoanut, which he describes -as an extremely powerful aphrodisiac, he informs -us, as a commentary upon the above text, that -he had four wives, besides a reasonable number of -mistresses. Nevertheless, the natives, he says, are -chaste and religious, and so very peacefully disposed -that their only weapons are prayers. In one of -these islands he was raised to the office of judge, -when, according to his own testimony, he endeavoured -to prevail upon his wives, contrary to the -custom of the country, to eat in his company, and -conceal their bosom with their garments, but could -never succeed.</p> - -<p class="c017">The legend which ascribes the conversion of these -islanders to Mohammedanism, the religion now prevailing -there, to a man who delivered the country -from a sea-monster, which was accustomed to devour -monthly one of their most beautiful virgins, -strongly resembles the story of Perseus and Andromeda.<span class="pageno" id="Page_96">96</span> -In order to keep up the fervency of their -piety the monster still appears on a certain day in -the offing. Ibn Batūta, who had little of the skeptic -in his composition, saw the apparition himself, in -the form of a ship filled with candles and torches; -and it may, perhaps, be the same supernatural structure -which still hovers about those seas, sailing in -the teeth of the wind, and denominated by European -mariners the “Flying Dutchman.” In these islands -Ibn Batūta remained some time, sailing from isle to -isle through glittering and tranquil seas, being everywhere -raised to posts of honour and distinction, and -tasting of all the delights and pleasures which power, -consideration, and a delicious climate could bestow.</p> - -<p class="c017">Neither riches nor honours, however, could fix -Ibn Batūta in one place. He was as restless as a -wave of the sea. No sooner, therefore, had he seen -the principal curiosities of the Maldive Islands, than -he burned to be again in motion, visiting new scenes, -and contemplating other men and other manners. -Embarking on board a Mohammedan vessel, he set -sail for the island of Ceylon, principally for the purpose -of visiting the mark of Adam’s footstep on the -mountain of Serendib, the lofty summit of which -appeared, he observes, like a pillar of smoke at the -distance of nine days’ sail. Drawing near the land, -he was at first forbidden by the Hindoo authorities -to come on shore; but, upon his informing them -that he was a relation of the King of Maabar, as he -in some sense was, having while at Delhi married -the sister of that prince’s queen, they permitted -him to disembark. The king of the country, who -happened at that time to be in amity with the sovereign -of Maabar, received him hospitably, and bade -him ask boldly for whatever he might want. “My -only desire,” replied the traveller, “in coming to -this island is to visit the blessed foot of our forefather -Adam.” This being the case, the king informed -him that his desires might easily be gratified,<span class="pageno" id="Page_97">97</span> -and forthwith granted him an escort of four Jogees, -four Brahmins, ten courtiers, and fifteen men for -carrying provisions, with a palanquin and bearers -for his own use.</p> - -<p class="c017">With this superb retinue the traveller departed -from Battalā, the capital of his royal host, and journeying -for several days through a country abounding -with wild elephants, arrived at the city of Kankār, -situated on the Bay of Rubies, where the emperor -of the whole island at that time resided. Here -Ibn Batūta saw the only white elephant which he -beheld in all his travels; and the beast, being set -apart for the use of the prince, had his head adorned -with enormous rubies, one of which was larger -than a hen’s egg. Other rubies of still greater magnitude -were sometimes found in the mines, and Ibn -Batūta saw a saucer as large as the palm of the -hand cut from one single stone. Rubies were in fact -so plentiful here that the women wore strings of -them upon their arms and legs, instead of bracelets -and ankle-rings.</p> - -<p class="c017">In the course of this journey our traveller passed -through a district inhabited chiefly by black monkeys, -with long tails, and beards like men. He was -assured by “very pious and credible persons” that -these monkeys had a kind of leader, or king, who, -being, we suppose, ambitious of appearing to be an -Islamite, wore upon his head a species of turban -composed of the leaves of trees, and reclined on a -staff as upon a sceptre. He had, moreover, his -council and his harem, like any other prince; and -one of the Jogees asserted that he had himself seen -the officers of his court doing justice upon a criminal, -by beating him with rods, and plucking off all -his hair. His revenue, which was paid in kind, consisted -of a certain number of nuts, lemons, and -mountain fruit; but upon what principle it was collected -we are not informed. Another of the wonders -of Ceylon were the terrible tree-leeches, which,<span class="pageno" id="Page_98">98</span> -springing from the branches, or from the tall rank -grass, upon the passing traveller, fastened upon him, -drained out his blood, and sometimes occasioned immediate -death. To prevent this fatal result the inhabitants -always carry a lemon about with them, -which they squeeze upon the leech, and thus force -him to quit his hold.</p> - -<p class="c017">Arriving at length at the Seven Caves, and the -Ridge of Alexander, they began to ascend the mountain -of Serendib, which, according to the orientals, -is one of the highest in the world. Its summit -rises above the region of the clouds; for our traveller -observes, that when he had ascended it, he beheld -those splendid vapours rolling along in masses -far beneath his feet. Among the extraordinary trees -and plants which grew upon this mountain is that -red rose, about the size of the palm of the hand, -upon the leaves of which the Mohammedans imagine -they can read the name of God and of the Prophet. -Two roads lead to the top of this mountain, of which -the one is said to be that of Bābā, or Adam; the -other, that of Māmā, or Eve. The latter is winding, -sloping, and easy of ascent, and is therefore -chosen by the pilgrims impatient on their first arrival -to visit the Blessed Foot; but whoever departs -without having also climbed the rough and difficult -road of Bābā, is thought not to have performed the -pilgrimage at all. The mark of the foot, which is -eleven spans in length, is in a rock upon the very -apex of the mountain. In the same rock, surrounding -the impression of the foot, there are nine small -excavations, into which the pagan pilgrims, who -imagine it to be the print of Buddha’s foot instead of -that of Adam, put gold, rubies, and other jewels; -and hence the fakeers who come hither on pilgrimage -strenuously endeavour to outstrip each other -in their race up the mountain, that they may seize -upon those treasures.</p> - -<p class="c017">In returning from the pilgrimage our traveller saw<span class="pageno" id="Page_99">99</span> -that sacred cypress-tree the leaves of which never -fall, or if they do, drop off so seldom that it is thought -that the person who finds one and eats it will return -again to the blooming season of youth, however old -he may be. When Ibn Batūta passed by the tree, he -saw several Jogees beneath it, watching for the dropping -of a leaf; but whether they ever tasted of the -joys of rejuvenescence, or quickened the passage -of their souls into younger bodies, he does not inform -us.</p> - -<p class="c017">Returning thence to Battalā, he embarked on board -the same ship which had conveyed him to Ceylon, -and departed for Maabar. During the voyage, short -as it was, a storm arose which endangered the ship, -and put their lives in jeopardy; but they were saved -by the bravery of the Hindoo pilots, who put out in -their small frail boats, and brought them to land. -He was received by his relation, the Sultan Ghietheddin, -with great honour and distinction; but this -prince being then engaged in war, for the vicissitudes -and dangers of which our traveller had never -any particular predilection, he departed on a visit to -the Rajah of Hinaur. Passing on his way through -the city of Fattan, he saw among groves of pomegranate-trees -and vines a number of fakeers, one of -whom had seven foxes, who breakfasted and dined -with him daily, while another had a lion and a gazelle, -which lived together as familiarly as the dogs and -angolas in a cat-merchant’s cage on the Pont Neuf.</p> - -<p class="c017">Before he could leave the Maabar country, he was -seized with a dangerous fever at Maturah, where -the Sultan Ghietheddin died of the same contagious -disorder. On his recovery he obtained the new sultan’s -permission to continue his journey, and embarking -at Kawlam in Malabar, proceeded towards -Hinaur. Ibn Batūta was seldom fortunate at sea. -Sometimes he was robbed; at other times nearly -drowned. The present voyage was the most unfortunate -he ever undertook, for the ship being attacked<span class="pageno" id="Page_100">100</span> -and taken by pirates, he, as well as the rest -of the passengers and crew, was robbed of all he -possessed, and landed on the coast penniless and -nearly naked. He contrived, however, by the aid -of the charitable, we presume, to find his way to -Kalicut, where, meeting with several merchants and -lawyers who had known him in the days of his -prosperity at Delhi, he was once more equipped -handsomely, and enabled to pursue his romantic adventures. -He had at this time some thoughts of returning -to the court of the Sultan Mohammed, but -fear, or rather prudence, deterred him, and he took -the more agreeable route of the Maldive Islands, -where he had left a little boy with his native mother. -It seems to have been his intention to have taken -away the child; but as the laws of the country forbade -the emigration of women, he came away as he -went, abandoning his offspring to the affection of its -mother.</p> - -<p class="c017">From hence the bounty of the vizier enabled him -to proceed to Bengal, a country then, as now, renowned -for its prodigious fertility, and the consequent -cheapness of provisions. He still, we find, -regarded himself as a servant of the emperor, for -Fakraddin, the king or subahdar of Bengal, being -then in rebellion against Mohammed, Ibn Batūta -avoided being presented to him, and proceeded towards -Tibet, for the purpose of visiting a famous -saint, who wrought “great and notable” miracles, -and lived to the great age of one hundred and fifty -years. This great man, who was accustomed to -fast ten days at a time, and sit up all night, foresaw -supernaturally the visit of Ibn Batūta, and sent -forth four of his companions to meet him at the distance -of two days’ journey, observing, “A western -religious traveller is coming to you; go out and -meet him.”</p> - -<p class="c017">On arriving at the cell he found the sheïkh prepared -to receive him; and with this great saint and<span class="pageno" id="Page_101">101</span> -his followers he remained three days. On the day -of our traveller’s presentation the sheïkh wore a -fine yellow garment, for which in his heart Ibn Batūta -conceived an unaccountable longing; and the -saint, who, it seems, could read the thoughts of -men, as well as the secrets of futurity, immediately -went to the side of the cave, and taking it off, together -with his fillet and his sleeves, put the whole -upon his guest. The fakeers informed Batūta, however, -that the sage had predicted that the garment -would be taken away by an infidel king, and given -to the Sheïkh Borhaneddin of Sagirj, for whom it -was made; but Batūta replied, “Since I have a -blessing from the sheïkh, and since he has clothed -me with his own clothes, I will never enter with -them into the presence of any king, whether infidel -or Moslem.” The prediction, however, was accomplished, -for the Emperor of China took away the -garment, and bestowed it upon the very Borhaneddin -in question.</p> - -<p class="c017">Descending from these mountains to the seashore, -he embarked at Sutirkawan for Sumatra, and -touching on the way at certain islands, which may, -perhaps, have been the greater and lesser Andamans, -saw a people with mouths like dogs, who -wore no clothing, and were totally destitute of religion. -Leaving these islands, they arrived in fifteen -days at Sumatra, a green and blooming island, -where the frankincense, the cocoanut, the Indian -aloe, the sweet orange, and the camphor-reed were -found in great abundance. Proceeding to the capital, -our traveller was hospitably received by the -Sultan Jemaleddin, a pious and munificent prince, -who walked to his prayers on Friday, and was peculiarly -partial to the professors of the Mohammedan -law; while in the arts of government and war he -exhibited great talents, keeping his infidel neighbours -in awe of him, and maintaining among his own -subjects a great enthusiasm for his person.</p> - -<p><span class="pageno" id="Page_102">102</span></p> - -<p class="c017">After remaining here fifteen days, partaking of -the hospitality of the Sultan Jemaleddin, our traveller -departed in a junk for China, where, after a pleasant -and prosperous voyage, he arrived in safety, -and found himself surrounded by new wonders. -This, he thought, was the richest and most fertile -country he had ever visited. Mohammedanism, however, -had made little or no progress among the yellow -men, for he observes that they were all infidels, -worshipping images, and burning their dead, like the -Hindoos. The emperor, at this period, was a descendant -of Genghis Khan, who seems to have so -far tolerated the Mohammedans, that they had a -separate quarter allotted to them in every town, -where they resided apart from the pagans. Ibn -Batūta seems to have regarded the Chinese with a -secret disgust, for he observes that they would eat -the flesh of both dogs and swine, which was sold -publicly in their markets. Though greatly addicted -to the comforts and pleasures of life, the distinctions -of rank were not very apparent among them, -the richest merchants dressing, like the commonalty, -in a coarse cotton dress, and all making use, in -walking, of a staff, which was called “the third leg.” -In the extreme cheapness of silks, our traveller -might have discovered the reason why the richest -merchants wore cotton; for, as he himself observes, -one cotton dress would purchase many silk ones, -which, accordingly, were the usual dress of the -poorer classes.</p> - -<p class="c017">The internal trade and commerce of the country -was carried on with paper money, which, as Marco -Polo likewise observes, had totally superseded the -use of the dirhem and the dinar. These bank-notes, -if we may so apply the term, were about the size -of the palm of the hand, and were stamped with the -royal stamp. When torn accidentally, or worn out -by use, these papers could be carried to what may -be termed their mint, and changed without loss for<span class="pageno" id="Page_103">103</span> -new ones, the emperor being satisfied with the profits -accruing from their circulation. No other money -was in use. Whatever gold and silver was possessed -by individuals was melted into ingots, and placed -for show over the doors of their houses.</p> - -<p class="c017">The perfection to which the Chinese of those days -had carried the elegant and useful arts appeared extraordinary -to our traveller, who dwells with vast -complacency upon the beauty of their paintings and -the peculiar delicacy of their porcelain. One example -of their ingenuity amused him exceedingly. -Returning after a short absence to one of their cities, -through which he had just passed, he found the -walls and houses ornamented with portraits of himself -and his companions. This, however, was a -mere police regulation, intended to familiarize the -people with the forms and features of strangers, that -should they commit any crime they might be easily -recognised. Ships found to contain any article not -regularly entered in the custom-house register were -confiscated; “a species of oppression,” says our -traveller, “which I witnessed nowhere else.” Strangers, -on their first arrival, placed themselves and -their property in the keeping of some merchant or -innkeeper, who was answerable for the safety of -both. The Chinese, regarding their children as -property, sell them whenever they can get a purchaser, -which renders slaves both male and female extremely -cheap among them; and as chastity appears -to possess little or no merit in their eyes, travellers -are in the habit of purchasing, on their arrival in any -city, a slave girl, who resides with them while they -remain, and at their departure is either sold again, -like an ordinary piece of furniture, or taken away -along with them to be disposed of elsewhere. The -severity of their police regulations proves that their -manners had even then arrived at that pitch of corruption -in which little or no reliance is to be placed -on moral influence, the place of which is supplied by<span class="pageno" id="Page_104">104</span> -caution, vigilance, and excessive terror. Strangers -moved about in the midst of innumerable guards, -who might, perhaps, be considered as much in the -light of spies as defenders. Fear predominated -everywhere; the traveller feared his host, and the -host the traveller. Religion, honour, morals had no -power, or rather no existence. Hence the low pitch -beyond which the civilization of China has never -been able to soar, and that retrogradation towards -barbarism which has long commenced in that country, -and is rapidly urging the population towards the -miserable condition in which they were plunged before -the times of Yaon and Shan, who drew them -out of their forests and caverns.</p> - -<p class="c017">To proceed, however, with the adventures of our -traveller. The first great city at which he arrived -he denominated El Zaitūn, which was the place -where the best coloured and flowered silks in the -empire were manufactured. It was situated upon a -large arm of the sea, and being one of the finest ports -in the world, carried on an immense trade, and overflowed -with wealth and magnificence. He next proceeded -to Sin Kilan, another city on the seashore, -beyond which, he was informed, neither Chinese nor -Mohammedan ever travelled, the inhabitants of those -parts being fierce, inhospitable, and addicted to cannibalism. -In a cave without this city was a hermit, -or more properly an impostor, who pretended to -have arrived at the great age of two hundred years -without eating, drinking, or sleeping. Ibn Batūta, -who could not, of course, avoid visiting so great and -perfect a being, going to his cell, found him to be a -thin, beardless, copper-coloured old man, possessing -all the external marks of a saint. When the worthy -traveller saluted him, instead of returning his salutation, -he seized his hand, and smelt it; and then, -turning to the interpreter, he said, “This man is just -as much attached to this world as we are to the -next.” Upon further discourse, it appeared that the<span class="pageno" id="Page_105">105</span> -saint and the traveller had met before, the former -being, in fact, a jogee, whom Ibn Batūta had seen -many years before leaning against the wall of an -idol temple in the island of Sindibur. Saints, as -well as other men, are sometimes imprudent. The -jogee had no sooner made this confession than he -repented of it, and, retreating into his cell, immediately -disguised himself, so that the traveller, who -he suspected would forcibly follow him, could not -upon entering recognise his person in the least. To -infuse into his visiter’s mind the belief that he possessed -the power of rendering himself invisible, he -informed him that he had seen the last of the holy -men, who, though at that moment present, was not -to be seen. On returning to the city, our traveller -was assured by the judge of the place that it was the -same person who had appeared to him both within -and without the cave, and that, in fact, the good man -was fond of playing such tricks.</p> - -<p class="c017">Returning to El Zaitūn, he proceeded towards the -capital, and halted a little at the city of Fanjanfūr, -which, from the number and beauty of its gardens, -in some measure resembled Damascus. Here, at a -banquet to which he was invited, the remembrance -of home was forcibly recalled to his mind by a very -affecting and unexpected meeting. He was sitting -at table, among his jovial entertainers, when a great -Mohammedan fakeer, who entered and joined the -company, attracted his attention; and as he continued -to gaze earnestly at him for some time, the -man at length observed him, and said, “Why do you -continue looking at me, unless you know me?” To -this Ibn Batūta replied, by demanding the name of -his native place. “I am,” said the man, “from -Ceuta.”—“And I,” replied Ibn Batūta, “am from -Tangiers.” By that peculiar structure of the mind -which gives associations of ideas, whether pleasurable -or painful, so thorough an empire over our feelings, -the very enunciation of those two sounds melted<span class="pageno" id="Page_106">106</span> -and subdued the temper of their souls. The fakeer -saluted him, and wept; and the traveller, returning -his salute, wept also. Ibn Batūta then inquired -whether he had ever been in India, and was informed -that he had remained for some time in the imperial -palace of Delhi. A sudden recollection now flashed -upon our traveller’s mind: “Are you, then, El Bashiri?” -said he; and the fakeer replied, “I am he.” -Ibn Batūta now knew who he was, and remembered -that while yet a youth without a beard he had travelled -with his uncle, Abul Kasim, from Africa to -Hindostan; and that he himself had afterward recommended -him as an able repeater of the Koran to the -emperor, though the fakeer, preferring liberty and a -rambling life, had refused to accept of any office. -He was now in possession, however, of both rank -and riches, and bestowed many presents upon his -former benefactor. To show the wandering disposition -of the men, our traveller remarks that he -shortly after met with the brother of this fakeer at -Sondan, in the heart of Africa.</p> - -<p class="c017">Still proceeding on his way, he next arrived at the -city of El Khausa (no doubt the Kinsai of Marco -Polo), which he pronounces the longest he had ever -seen on the face of the earth; and to give some idea -of its prodigious extent, observes, that a traveller -might journey on through it for three days, and still -find lodgings. As the Chinese erect their houses in -the midst of gardens, like the natives of Malabar, -and enclose within the walls what may be termed -parks and meadows, the population of their cities is -never commensurate with their extent; so that their -largest capitals may be regarded as inferior in population -to several cities of Europe. However, the -flames of civil war, which then raged with inextinguishable -fury through the whole empire, prevented -our traveller from visiting Khan Balik, the Cambalu -of Marco Polo and the older geographers, and the -Peking of the Chinese; and therefore he returned<span class="pageno" id="Page_107">107</span> -to El Zaitūn, where he embarked on board a Mohammedan -vessel bound for Sumatra. During this voyage, -in which they were driven by a tempest into -unknown seas, both our traveller and the crew of -the ship in which he sailed mistook a cloud for an -island, and, being driven towards it by the wind, -suffered, by anticipation, all the miseries of shipwreck. -Some betook themselves to prayer and repentance; -others made vows. In the mean while -night came on, the wind died away, and in the morning, -when they looked out for their island, they found -that it had ascended into the air, while a bright current -of light flowed between it and the sea. New -fears now seized upon the superstitious crew. Escaped -from shipwreck, they began to imagine that -the dusky body which they discovered at a distance -hovering in the sky was no other than the monstrous -rock-bird which makes so distinguished a figure in -the Arabian Nights’ Entertainment; and they had -little doubt, that should it perceive them, it would -immediately pounce upon and devour both them and -their ship. The wind blowing in a contrary direction, -they escaped, however, from the rock, and in -the course of two months arrived safely in Java, -where our traveller was honourably received and entertained -by the king.</p> - -<p class="c017">Remaining here two months, and receiving from -the sultan presents of lignum, aloes, camphire, cloves, -sandal-wood, and provisions, he at length departed -in a junk bound for Kawlam, in Malabar, where, after -a voyage of forty days, he arrived; and visiting Kalikut -and Zafār, again departed for the Persian Gulf. -Traversing a portion of Persia and Mesopotamia, he -entered Syria; and the desire of visiting his native -place now springing up in his heart, he hastened, -after once more performing the pilgrimage to Mecca -and Medina, to embark for Barbary, and arrived at -Fez in 1350, after an absence of twenty-six years. -Though received in the most distinguished manner<span class="pageno" id="Page_108">108</span> -by his native sovereign, who, in his opinion, united -all the good and great qualities of all the great -princes he had seen, and believing, like a true patriot, -that his own country of all the regions of the earth -was the most beautiful, the old habit of locomotion -was still too strong to be subdued; and imagining -he should enjoy peculiar pleasure in warring for the -true faith, he passed over into Spain, where the Mohammedans -were then engaged in vanquishing or -eradicating the power of the Christians. The places -which here principally commanded his attention -were, the Hill of Victory (Gibraltar), and Granada, -whose suburbs, surpassing those of Damascus itself, -and intersected by the sparkling waters of the Xenil, -appeared to him the finest in the whole world.</p> - -<p class="c017">From Spain Ibn Batūta again passed into Africa, -apparently without at all engaging in the war against -the Christians, and, after traversing the cultivated -districts, entered the great desert of Sahara, through -which he proceeded, without meeting with village -or habitation for five-and-twenty days, when they -arrived at Tagāzā, or Thagari, a place built entirely -of rock salt. Proceeding onwards through the -desert, in this portion of which there is neither water, -bird, nor tree, and where the dazzling burning sand -is whirled aloft in vast clouds, and driven along with -prodigious rapidity by the winds, they arrived in ten -days at the city of Abu Latin, the first inhabited -place in the kingdom of Sondan. Here our traveller -was so exceedingly disgusted with the character of -the negroes, who exhibited unmitigated contempt for -all white people, that he at first resolved to return -without completing his design; but the travelling -passion prevailed, he remained at Abu Latin fifty -days, studying the manners and customs of the inhabitants. -Contrary to the general rule, he found -the women beautiful and the men not jealous; the -effect, in all probability, of unbounded corruption of -manners.</p> - -<p><span class="pageno" id="Page_109">109</span></p> - -<p class="c017">Proceeding thence to Mali, or Melli, and remaining -there a short time, being honourably received -and presented with valuable gifts by the king, he -next departed for Timbuctoo, which at that time -appears to have been quite an inferior place, dependent -on Mali. Returning thence by the way of Sigilmāsa -to Fez, in the year 1353, he there concluded -his wanderings, and in all probability employed the -remainder of his life in the composition of those -travels of which we merely possess a meager -abridgment, the most complete copy of which was -brought to England by Mr. Burckhardt. The translation -of this abridgment by Professor Lee, useful -as it is, must be rendered greatly more valuable by -extending the English, and rejecting the Arabic -notes; and by the addition of an index, which would -facilitate the study of the work. How long Ibn -Batūta survived his return to his native country, and -whether the travels were his own work, are facts -of which nothing is known.</p> - -<div class="pbb"> - <hr class="pb c004" /> -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="c012" id="LEO_AFRICANUS">LEO AFRICANUS.</h2> -</div> - -<div class="nf-center-c0"> -<div class="nf-center c004"> - <div>Born about 1486.—Died about 1540.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class="c016"><span class="sc">The</span> original name of this distinguished traveller -was Al Hassan Ben Mohammed Al Vazan, surnamed -Fezzani, on account of his having studied and passed -the greater part of his youth at Fez. He was, however, -a native of the city of Granada in Spain, -where he appears to have been born about the year -1486 or 1487. When this city, the last stronghold -of Islamism in the Peninsula, was besieged by the -Christians in 1491, the parents of Leo, who were a -branch of the noble family of Zaid, passed over into -Africa, taking their son, then a child, along with<span class="pageno" id="Page_110">110</span> -them, and established themselves at Fez, the capital -of the Mohammedan kingdom of the same name. -Fez, at this period the principal seat of Mohammedan -learning in Africa, was no less distinguished among -the cities of Islamism for the magnificence and -splendour of its mosques, palaces, caravansaries, -and gardens; yet Leo, who already exhibited a -vigorous and independent character, preferred the -tranquil and salubrious retreat of Habbed’s Camp, a -small place originally founded by a hermit, upon a -mountain six miles from the capital, and commanding -a view both of the city and its environs. Here -he passed four delightful summers in study and -retirement.</p> - -<p class="c017">Having at the age of fourteen completed his -studies, he became secretary or registrar to a caravanserai, -at a salary of three golden dinars per -month, and this office he filled during two years. -At the expiration of this period, about the year 1502, -he accompanied his uncle on an embassy from the -King of Fez to the Sultan of Timbuctoo, and in that -renowned assemblage of hovels he remained four -years. On his return from this city, which he afterward -visited at a more mature age, he made a short -stay at Tefza, the capital of a small independent -territory in the empire of Morocco. The city was -large and flourishing; the people wealthy; but divisions -arising among them, several individuals of distinction -were driven into exile, who, repairing to the -King of Fez, conjured him to grant them a certain -number of troops, in return for which they engaged -to reduce their native city, and place it in his hands. -The troops were granted—the city reduced—the -chiefs of the popular party thrown into prison. The -business now being to extort from them the greatest -possible sum of money, they were informed, that -unless they immediately produced wherewith to -defray the expenses of the expedition, they should -without delay be transported to Fez, where the king<span class="pageno" id="Page_111">111</span> -would not fail to exact from them at least double -the amount. Being aware into what hands they -were fallen, the chiefs consented, and desired their -wives and relatives to produce the money. The -ladies of course obeyed; but in order to make it -appear that they had achieved the matter with the -utmost difficulty, and had in fact collected all they -possessed in the world, they included their rings, -bracelets, and other ornaments and jewels, the whole -amounting to about twenty-eight thousand golden -dinars. This sum exceeding what had been demanded, -there appeared to be no longer any pretence -for detaining the men in prison; but the general, -imagining that persons who possessed so much must -infallibly possess more, could not prevail upon himself -to part with them so easily. Therefore, calling -together the prisoners, who were about forty-two in -number, he informed them in a tone of great commiseration -that he had just received letters from the -king, peremptorily commanding him to put them all -to death without delay, and that of course he could -not dare to disobey the orders of his sovereign. At -these words indescribable terror and consternation -seizing upon the prisoners, they wept bitterly, and -in the poignancy of their anguish conjured the chief -to have mercy upon them. The worthy soldier, -who had apparently been educated at court, shed -tears also, and seemed to be overwhelmed with sorrow -and perplexity. While they were in this dilemma, -a man who appeared to be totally new to the -affair entered, and upon hearing the whole state of -the case, gave it as his opinion that the severity of -the king might be mitigated by a large sum of money. -The prisoners, who appeared to revive at these -words, forgetting that, according to their own account, -the former mulct had exhausted all their -means, now offered immense sums in exchange for -their lives, not only to the king, but likewise to the -general. This being the point aimed at, their offer<span class="pageno" id="Page_112">112</span> -was of course accepted; and having paid eighty-four -thousand pieces of gold to the king, and rewarded -the astute general with a costly present of horses, -slaves, and perfumes, the poor men were at length -liberated. Leo, who was present at this transaction, -admires the extraordinary ingenuity of mankind in -extorting money; and observes that some time after -this his majesty of Fez extracted a still larger sum -from a single Jew.</p> - -<p class="c017">The chronology of our traveller’s various expeditions -it is difficult if not impossible to determine; -but he appears shortly after this characteristic affair -to have made an excursion into those vast plains, or -deserts, of Northern Africa, inhabited by the Bedouins, -where he amused himself with contemplating -the rude character and manners of this primitive -people. His first attempt, however, to visit these -wild tribes was unsuccessful. Setting out from Fez, -and traversing a mountainous and woody country, -abounding in fountains and rivulets, and extremely -fertile, he arrived at the foot of Mount Atlas, whose -sides were covered with vast forests, while its summits -were capped with snow. The merchants who -cross this tremendous mountain with fruit from the -date country usually arrive about the end of October, -but are often surprised in their passage by snow-storms, -which, in the course of a few hours, not -only bury both carriages and men, but even the trees, -so that not a vestige of them remains visible. When -the sun melts the snow in the spring, then the carriages -and the bodies of the dead are found.</p> - -<p class="c017">It was some time in the month of October that -Leo arrived with a large company of merchants at -the ascent of Atlas, where they were overtaken -about sunset by a storm of blended snow and hail, -accompanied by the most piercing cold. As they -were toiling upwards, they encountered a small -troop of Arab horsemen, who, inviting our traveller -to descend from his carriage and bear them company,<span class="pageno" id="Page_113">113</span> -promised to conduct him to an agreeable and -secure asylum. Though entertaining considerable -doubts of their intentions, he could not venture to -refuse; but while he accepted of their civility, he -began to revolve in his mind the means of concealing -from them the wealth which he bore about his person. -The horsemen, however, were all mounted -and impatient to be on the march; he had, therefore, -not a moment to lose, but pretending a pressing -necessity for stepping aside for an instant, he retreated -behind a tree, and deposited his money -among a heap of stones at the foot of it. Then -carefully observing the spot, he returned to the -Arabs, who immediately began their journey. They -travelled rapidly till about midnight without uttering -a word, battered by the storm and severely pinched -by the cold; when, having reached a spot proper for -the purpose they had in view, they stopped suddenly, -and one of them, coming close up to our traveller, -demanded of him what wealth he had about him. -He replied that he had none, having intrusted one of -his fellow-travellers with his money. This the Arabs -refused to believe, and, in order to satisfy themselves -upon the point, commanded him, without considering -the bitterness of the weather, to strip himself to the -skin. When he had done so, and was found to be -as penniless as he was naked, they burst into a loud -laugh, pretending that what they had done was -merely to ascertain whether he was a hardy man or -not, and could endure the biting of the cold and the -fury of the tempest. They now once more proceeded -on their way, as swiftly as the darkness of -the night and the roughness of the weather would -permit, until they perceived by the bleating of sheep -that they were approaching the habitations of men. -This sound serving them for a guide, they dashed -away through thick woods and over steep rocks, to -the great hazard of their necks; and at length -arrived at an immense cavern, where they found a<span class="pageno" id="Page_114">114</span> -number of shepherds, who, having driven in all their -flocks, had kindled a blazing fire, and were eagerly -crowding round it on account of the cold.</p> - -<p class="c017">Observing that their visiters were Arabs, the shepherds -were at first greatly terrified; but being by -degrees persuaded that they intended them no harm, -and merely demanded shelter from the inclemency -of the weather, they recovered their self-possession, -and entertained them with the most generous hospitality. -After supper, the whole company stretched -themselves round the fire, and slept soundly until -next morning. The snow still continuing to fall, -they remained two whole days in this wild retreat; -but on the third the weather clearing up, a passage -was cut through the snow, and merging into daylight -they mounted their horses, and descended towards -the plains of Fez, the kindly shepherds acting as -their guides through the difficult passes of the mountains. -They now learned that the caravan with -which Leo was travelling when encountered by the -Arabs, had been overwhelmed by the snow; so that -no hope of plunder being left, our traveller’s friendly -preservers seized upon a Jew with the design of -extorting a large ransom from him; and borrowing -Leo’s horse in order to convey the Hebrew prize to -their tents, they commended its master to the mercy -of fortune and the winds, and departed. Good luck, -or the charity of some benevolent hind, furnished -our traveller with a mule, upon which he made his -way in three days to the capital.</p> - -<p class="c017">Not being discouraged by this adventure, which, -when safely concluded, appeared rather romantic -than unfortunate, he again bent his steps towards -the desert, and at length succeeded in his attempt to -become the guest of the children of Ishmael. Here -he found himself surrounded by that fierce and untameable -people, who, having to their natural wildness -and ferocity added those qualities of perfidiousness -and treachery which the venom of the African<span class="pageno" id="Page_115">115</span> -soil appears to engender inevitably, might be regarded -as the most dangerous of all those barbarians -among whom civilized man could expose himself. -Hunting the lion, taming the most fiery coursers, in -short, all violent exercises, and bloodshed, and war, -were their daily recreations. Nevertheless some -traces of the milder manners of Arabia remained. -Poetry, adapting itself to the tastes of these rude -men, celebrated in songs burning with energy and -enthusiasm the prowess and exploits of their warriors, -the beauty of their women, the savage but -sublime features of their country, or the antiquity -and glory of their race. Making their sword the -purveyor of their desires, they enjoyed whatever -iron thus fashioned could purchase,—ample tents, -costly and magnificent garments, vessels of copper -or of brass, with abundance of silver and gold. In -summer moving northward before the sun, they -poured down upon the cultivated country lying -along the shores of the Mediterranean, through a -thousand mountain defiles, and collecting both fruit -and grain as they were ripened by its rays, watched -the retreat of the great luminary towards the -southern tropic, and pursued its fiery track across -the desert.</p> - -<p class="c017">Returning from this expedition without undergoing -any particular hardships, he shortly afterward passed -into Morocco, where he remained during several -years, visiting its most celebrated cities, mountains, -and deserts, and carefully studying the manners of -its inhabitants under all their aspects. The first -place of any note which he examined was Mount -Magran. Here, amid wild Alpine scenes, and peaks -covered with eternal snow, he found a people whose -simple manners carried back his imagination to the -first ages of the world. In winter they had no fixed -habitations, but dwelt in large baskets, the sides of -which were formed of the bark of trees, and the roof -of wicker-work. These they removed from place<span class="pageno" id="Page_116">116</span> -to place on the backs of mules, stopping and dismounting -their houses wherever they met with pasture -for their flocks. During the warm months, -however, they erected huts of larger dimensions, -roofing them with green boughs, and provender for -their cattle being plentiful, remained stationary. To -defend their flocks and herds from the cold, which -is there always severe during the night, they kindled -immense fires close to their doors, which, emitting -too great a flame when fanned by tempestuous winds, -sometimes caught their combustible dwellings, and -endangered the lives both of themselves and their -cattle. They were likewise exposed to the daily -hazard of being devoured by lions or wolves, animals -which abound in that savage region.</p> - -<p class="c017">From hence he proceeded to Mount Dedas, a lofty -chain eighty miles in length, covered with vast -forests, and fertilized by a prodigious number of -fountains and rivulets. On the summit of this ridge -were then found the ruins of a very ancient city, on -the white walls and solitary monuments of which -there existed numerous inscriptions, but couched in -a language and characters totally unknown to the -inhabitants, some of whom supposed it to have been -built by the Romans, though no mention of the place -occurs in any African historian. The wretched race -then inhabiting the mountain dwelt in caverns, or in -huts of stones rudely piled upon each other. Their -whole riches consisted in large droves of asses and -flocks of goats; barley bread with a little salt and -milk was their only food; and scarcely the half of -their bodies were covered by their miserable garments. -Yet the caverns in which they and their -goats lay down promiscuously abounded in nitre, -which in any civilized country would have sufficed -to raise them to a state of opulence. The manners -of these troglodytes were execrable. Living without hope -and without God in the world, they fearlessly -perpetrated all manner of crimes, treachery,<span class="pageno" id="Page_117">117</span> -thieving, open robbery, and murder. The women -were still more ragged and wretched than the men, -and the traveller found it, upon the whole, the most -disagreeable place in all Africa.</p> - -<p class="c017">As Leo did not make any regular tour of the country, -but repaired now to one place, now to another, -as business or accident impelled him, we find him to-day -at one end of Morocco, and when the next date -is given he is at the opposite extremity. Nothing, -therefore, is left the biographer but to follow as -nearly as possible the order of time. Towards the -conclusion of the year in which he crossed Mount -Dedas in his way to Segelmessa, he proceeded with -Sheriff, a Moorish chief, in whose service he happened -to be, towards the western provinces of Morocco, -and travelling with a powerful escort, or rather -with an army, had little or nothing to fear from the -most sanguinary and perfidious of the barbarian -tribes. One of the most remarkable places visited -during this excursion was El Eusugaghen, the “City -of Murderers.” The mere description of the manners -of its inhabitants makes the blood run cold. -The city, erected on the summit of a lofty mountain, -was surrounded by no gardens, and shaded by no -fruit-trees. Barley and oil were the only produce -of the soil. The poorer portion of the inhabitants -went barefoot throughout the year, the richer wore -a rude species of mocassin, fabricated from the hide -of the camel or the ox. All their thoughts, all their -desires tended towards bloodshed and war, and so -fierce were their struggles with their neighbours, so -terrible the slaughter, so unmitigated and unrelenting -their animosity, that, according to the forcible expression -of the traveller himself, they deserved rather -to be called dogs than men. Nor was their disposition -towards each other more gentle. No man -ventured to step over the threshold of his own door -into the street without carrying a dagger or a spear -in his hand: and as they did not appear inclined to<span class="pageno" id="Page_118">118</span> -bear their weapons in vain, were restrained by no -principles of religion or justice, and were utterly insensible -to pity, cries of “murder!” in the street -were frequent and startling.</p> - -<p class="c017">This atrocious stronghold of murderers was situated -in the district over which Sheriff claimed the -sovereignty, and his visit to the place was undertaken -in the hope of introducing something like law and -justice. The number of accusations of theft, robbery, -and murder was incredible; and dire was the -dissension, the commotion, the noise which everywhere -prevailed. As Sheriff had brought with him -neither lawyers nor magistrates who might undertake -to compose their differences, Leo, as a man -learned in the Koran, was earnestly conjured to fulfil -this terrible office. No sooner had he consented -than two men rushed in before him, accusing each -other of the most abominable crimes, the one averring -that the other had murdered eight of his relations; -and the latter, who by no means denied the -fact, asserting in reply that the former had murdered -<i>ten</i> members of his family, and that, therefore, as the -balance was in his favour, he should, according to -the custom of the country, be paid a certain sum of -money for the additional loss he had sustained. The -murderer of ten, on the other hand, argued that it -was to him that the price of blood should be paid, for -that the persons whom he had slain had suffered -justly, since they had violently seized upon a farm -which belonged to him, and that he could in no other -way gain possession of his right; while his own relations -had fallen the victims of the mere atrocity -of the other murderer. Such were the mutual accusations -in which the first day was consumed. The -evening coming on, Leo and the chieftain retired to -rest; but in the dead of the night they were suddenly -awakened by terrific shouts and yells, and springing -hastily from their couches, and running to the window, -they saw an immense crowd rushing into the<span class="pageno" id="Page_119">119</span> -market-place, and fighting with so much fury and -bloodshed, that to have beheld them the most iron -nature must have been shocked; so that, dreading -lest some plot or conspiracy might be hatching -against himself, the chieftain made his escape as -rapidly as possible, taking the traveller along with -him.</p> - -<p class="c017">From this den they proceeded towards the city of -Teijent, and on the way began to imagine that, according -to the vulgar proverb, they had fallen out -of the fryingpan into the fire; for night coming -upon them in a solitary place, where neither village -nor caravansary was nigh, Leo and his companion, -who happened to be separated from the chieftain’s -army, were compelled to take refuge in a small -wooden house which had fallen to decay on the road-side. -It being extremely hot weather, they fastened -their horses to a post in the lower room, stopping -up the gaps in the enclosure with thorns and bushes, -and then retreated to the house-top, to enjoy as far -as possible the freshness of the air. The night was -already far advanced, when two enormous lions, attracted -by the scent of the horses, approached the -ruin, and threw them into the greatest consternation; -for the least violence would have shaken down their -frail tenement, and thrown them out into the lions’ -mouths, and their horses, maddened by fear, and -shuddering at the terrible voice of the lions, began -to neigh and snort in the most furious manner. To -increase their fears, they heard the ferocious animals -striving to tear away the briery fence with which -they had closed up the doors and openings in the -wall, and which they every moment dreaded might -at length give way. In this situation they passed -the night; but when the dawn appeared, and light -began to infuse life into the cool landscape, the -lions, feeling that their hour was gone by, retreated -to their dens in the forests, and left the travellers to -pursue their journey.</p> - -<p><span class="pageno" id="Page_120">120</span></p> - -<p class="c017">Having remained a short time at Teijent, he proceeded -towards the north-west through Tesegdeltum -to Tagtessa, a city built upon the apex of a conical -hill, where he saw the earth covered by so prodigious -a cloud of locusts that they seemed to outnumber -the blades of grass. From this city he -travelled to Eitdevet, where he refreshed himself -after his various toils by conversing with learned -Jews and Ulemas on knotty points of law, and by -gazing on the women, whose plump round forms and -rich complexions delighted him exceedingly. To -keep up the interest of his journey, and diversify -the scene a little, he was a few days afterward fired -at by the subject of an heretical chief, who inhabited -a mountain fortress, and amused himself with laying -true believers under contribution; but escaped the -danger, and succeeded in reaching Tefetne, a small -city on the seashore. Here sufferings of a new kind -awaited him. Not from the people, for they were -humane and friendly towards strangers; but from -certain dependants of theirs, whose assiduous attentions -made the three days which Leo spent among -these good-natured people appear to be so many -ages. In short, notwithstanding that he was lodged -in a magnificent caravansary, he was nearly stung to -death by fleas! The cause of the extraordinary -abundance of these active little animals at Tefetne, -though it seems never to have occurred to our curious -traveller, is discoverable in a circumstance -which he accidentally mentions—<i>the Portuguese -traded to this city</i>. This likewise may account for -another little peculiarity which distinguished this -part from the neighbouring towns, though not greatly -to its advantage: the stench, he tells us, which diffused -itself on all sides, and assaulted the nostrils -night and day, was so powerful that his senses were -at length compelled to succumb, and he retreated -before the victorious odour.</p> - -<p class="c017">In order somewhat to sweeten his imagination, he<span class="pageno" id="Page_121">121</span> -now struck off from the seacoast, where the towns -are generally infested by unpleasant smells, in order -to visit those wild tribes that inhabit the western extremity -of Mount Atlas. Here the scenery, sparkling -through a peculiarly transparent atmosphere, was -rich, picturesque, and beautiful. Innumerable fountains, -shaded by lofty spreading trees, among which -the walnut was conspicuous, sprung forth from the -bosom of the hills, and leaping down over rocks and -precipices amid luxuriant foliage, united in the sunny -valleys, and formed many cool and shining streams. -This fertile region was well stocked with inhabitants—farms -and villas everywhere peeping from between -the trees, and refreshing the eye of the traveller. -The inhabitants, however, though clothed superbly, -and glittering with rings and other ornaments of -gold and silver, were immersed in the grossest ignorance, -and addicted beyond credibility to every -odious and revolting vice. From thence, after a -short stay, he returned towards the coast, and arrived -at Messa, a city surrounded by groves of palm-trees -and richly-cultivated fields, and situated about -a mile distant from the sea, close to which there was -a mosque, the beams and rafters of which were -formed of the bones of whales. Here, according to -the traditions of the place, the prophet Jonah was -cast on shore by the whale, when he attempted to -escape from the necessity of preaching repentance -to the Ninevites; and it is the opinion of the people, -that if any of this species of fish attempt to swim -past this temple along the shore, he is immediately -stricken dead by some miraculous influence of the -edifice, and cast up by the waves upon the beach; -and it is certain that many carcasses of these enormous -animals are annually found upon that part of -the coast of Morocco, as also large quantities of -amber.</p> - -<p class="c017">Proceeding along the shore, and examining whatever -appeared deserving of attention, he once more<span class="pageno" id="Page_122">122</span> -betook himself to the mountains, where, among the -rude and lawless tribes which inhabited them, he -found a more extraordinary system of manners, and -stood a better chance of gratifying his love of enterprise -and adventure. Traversing the savage defiles -of Mount Nififa, whose inhabitants wholly employ -themselves in the care of goats and bees, he arrived -at Mount Surede, where he became engaged in a very -whimsical scene. Cut off by their solitary and remote -position from frequent intercourse with the -rest of the world, these thick-headed mountaineers -had no conception of law or civilization, no idea of -which ever entered their minds, except when some -stranger, distinguished for his good sense and modest -manners, made his appearance among them. Still -they were not, like many of the neighbouring tribes, -altogether destitute of religion; and when Leo arrived, -he was received and entertained by a priest, -who set before him the usual food of the inhabitants, -a little barley-meal boiled in water, and goat’s flesh, -which might be conjectured from its toughness to -have belonged to some venerable example of longevity. -These savoury viands, which they ate -squatted on their haunches like monkeys, appear to -have been so little to the taste of Leo, that, in order -to avoid the impiety of devouring such patriarchal -animals, he resolved to depart next morning at the -peep of dawn; but as he was preparing to mount his -beast, about fifty of the inhabitants crowded about -him, and enumerating their grievances and wrongs, -requested him to judge between them. He replied, -that he was totally ignorant of their customs and -manners. This, he was told, signified nothing. It -was the custom of the place, that whenever any -stranger paid them a visit, he was constrained before -his departure to try and determine all the causes -which, like suits in the Court of Chancery, might -have been accumulating for half a century; and to -convince him that they were in earnest, and would<span class="pageno" id="Page_123">123</span> -hear of no refusal they forthwith took away his -horse, and requested him to commence operations. -Seeing there was no remedy, he submitted with as -good a grace as possible; and during nine days and -nights had his ears perpetually stunned by accusations, -pleadings, excuses, and, what was still worse, -was obliged daily to devour the flesh of animals older -than Islamism itself. On the evening of the eighth -day the natives, being greatly satisfied with his mode -of distributing justice, and desirous of encouraging -him to complete his Herculean labours, promised -that on the next day he should receive a magnificent -reward; and as he hoped they meant to recompense -him with a large sum of money, the night which -separated him from so great a piece of good fortune -seemed an age. The dawn, therefore, had no sooner -appeared than he was stirring; and the people, who -were equally in earnest, requesting him to place himself -in the porch of the mosque, made a short speech -after their manner, which being finished, the presents -were brought up with the utmost respect. To his -great horror, instead of the gold which his fancy had -been feeding upon, he saw his various clients approach, -one with a cock, another with a quantity of -nuts, a third with onions; while such as meant to -be more magnificent brought him a goat. There -was, in fact, no money in the place. Not being able -to remove his riches, he left the goats and onions -to his worthy host; and departed with a guard of -fifty soldiers, which his grateful clients bestowed -upon him to defend his person in the dangerous -passes through which he had to travel.</p> - -<p class="c017">From hence, still proceeding along the lofty -mountainous ridge, whose pinnacles are covered -with eternal snow, he repaired to Mount Seusava, a -district inhabited by warlike tribes, who, though engaged -in perpetual hostilities with their neighbours, -understood the use of no offensive arms except the -sling, from which, however, they threw stones with<span class="pageno" id="Page_124">124</span> -singular force and precision. The food of these -gallant emulators of the ancient Rhodians consisted -of barley-meal and honey, to which was occasionally -added a little goat’s flesh. The arts of peace, -which the warriors, perhaps, were too proud or too -lazy to cultivate with any degree of assiduity, were -here exercised chiefly by Jews, who manufactured -very good earthenware, reaping-hooks, and -horse-shoes. Their houses were constructed of -rough stones, piled upon each other without cement. -Nevertheless, a great number of learned men, whose -advice was invariably taken and followed by the -natives, was found here, among whom Leo met -with several who had formerly been his fellow-students -at Fez, and now not only received him with -kindness and hospitality, but, moreover, accompanied -him on his departure to a considerable distance -from the mountain.</p> - -<p class="c017">He now peacefully pursued his journey; and after -witnessing the various phenomena of these mountain -regions, where the date-tree and the avalanche, -the fir and the orange-tree are near neighbours, -again descended into the plainer and more cultivated -portion of Morocco, and after numerous petty adventures, -not altogether unworthy of being recorded, -but yet too numerous to find a place here, arrived -at Buluchuan, a small city upon the river Ommirabih. -Here travellers were usually received and -entertained with distinguished hospitality, not being -allowed to spend any thing during their stay, while -splendid caravansaries were erected for their reception, -and the citizens, whose munificence was not -inferior to their riches, vied with each other in their -attentions and civilities. At the period of Leo’s -visit, however, the city was in a state of the utmost -disorder. The King of Fez had sent his brother -with orders to take possession of the whole province -of Duccala; but on his arrival at this city, news -was brought him that the Prince of Azemore was<span class="pageno" id="Page_125">125</span> -even then upon his march towards the place with a -numerous army, with the intention of demolishing -the fortifications, and carrying away the inhabitants -into captivity. Upon receiving this information, -two thousand horse and eight hundred archers -were immediately thrown into Buluchuan; but at -the same time arrived a number of Portuguese soldiers, -and two thousand Arabs; the latter of whom, -first attacking the Fezzians, easily routed them, and -put the greater number of the archers to the sword; -then turning upon the Portuguese, they cut off a -considerable number of their cavalry, and quickly -put them also to the rout. Shortly after this, the -brother of the King of Fez arrived, and upon undertaking -to protect the inhabitants from all enemies -to the latest day of his life, received the tribute -which he demanded; but being worsted in battle, -quickly returned to Fez. The people now perceiving -that, notwithstanding the promised protection -of the Fezzan king, they were still exposed to all -the calamities of war, and feeling themselves unequal -to contend unassisted with their numerous enemies, -and more particularly dreading the avarice of the -Portuguese, deserted their city and their homes, and -took refuge upon the promontory of Tedla. Leo, -who was present during these transactions, and -witnessed the slaughter of the archers, mounted on -a swift charger, and keeping at a short distance -from the scene of carnage upon the plain, had been -delegated by the monarch of Fez to announce the -speedy arrival of his brother with his forces.</p> - -<p class="c017">Some time after this, the King of Fez, once -more resolving upon the reduction of the province, -arrived in Duccala with an army, bringing Leo, who -had now risen to considerable distinction at court, -along with him. Arriving at the foot of an eminence -of considerable height, denominated by our -traveller the Green Mountain, and which divides -Duccala from the province of Tedla, the monarch,<span class="pageno" id="Page_126">126</span> -charmed by the beauties of the place, commanded -his tents to be pitched, resolving to spend a few -days in pleasure at that calm and delightful solitude. -The mountain itself is rugged, and well clothed with -woods of oak and pine. Among these, remote from -all human intercourse, are the dwellings of numerous -hermits, who subsist upon such wild productions -of the earth as the place supplies; and here and -there scattered among the rocks were great numbers -of Mohammedan altars, fountains of water, and -ruins of ancient edifices. Near the base of the -mountain there was an extensive lake, resembling -that of Volsinia in Italy, swarming with prodigious -numbers of eels, pikes, and other species of fish, -some of which are unknown in Europe. Mohammed, -the Fezzan king, now gave orders for a general -attack upon the fish of the lake. In a moment, -turbans, vests, and nether garments, the sleeves and -legs being tied at one end, were transformed into -nets, and lowered into the water; and before their -owners could look round them pikes were struggling -and eels winding about in their capacious -breeches. Meanwhile, nineteen thousand horses, -and a vast number of camels, plunged into the lake -to drink, so that, says Leo, by a certain figure of -speech not at all uncommon among travellers, there -was scarcely any water left; and the fish were -stranded, as it were, in their own dwellings. The -sport was continued for eight days; when, being -tired of fishing, Mohammed gave orders to explore -the recesses of the mountain. The borders of the -lake were covered by extensive groves of a species -of pine-tree, in which an incredible number of turtle-doves -had built their nests; and these, like the fishes -of the lake, became the prey of the army. Passing -through these groves, the prince and all his troops -ascended the mountain. Leo the while keeping close -to his majesty among the doctors and courtiers; -and as often as they passed by any little chapel,<span class="pageno" id="Page_127">127</span> -Mohammed, keeping in sight of the whole army, -addressed his prayers to the Almighty, calling -Heaven to witness that his only motive in coming -to Duccala was to deliver it from the tyranny of the -Christians and Arabs. Returning in the evening to -their tents, they next day proceeded with hounds -and falcons, of which the king possessed great numbers, -to hunt the wild duck, the wild goose, the -turtle-dove, and various other species of birds. -Their next expedition was against higher game, -such as the hare, the stag, the fallow-deer, the porcupine, -and the wolf, and in this kind of chase eagles -and falcons were employed as well as dogs; and as -no person had beaten up those fields for more than -a hundred years, the quantity of game was prodigious. -After amusing himself for several days in -this manner, the prince, attended by his court and -army, returned to Fez, while Leo, with a small -body of troops, was despatched upon an embassy to -the Emperor of Morocco.</p> - -<p class="c017">On returning from Morocco, after being hospitably -entertained at El Medina, Tagodastum, Bzo, and -other cities, he visited the dwelling of a mountain -prince, with whom he spent several days in conversations -on poetry and literature. Though immoderately -greedy of praise, his gentleness, politeness, -and liberality rendered him every way worthy of -it; and if he did not understand Arabic, he at least -delighted to have its beauties explained to him, and -highly honoured and valued those who were learned -in this copious and energetic language. Our traveller -had visited this generous chieftain several -years before. Coming well furnished with presents, -among which was a volume of poetry containing -the praises of celebrated men, and of the prince -himself among the rest, he was magnificently received; -the more particularly as he himself had -composed upon the way a small poem on the same<span class="pageno" id="Page_128">128</span> -agreeable subject, which he recited to the prince -after supper.</p> - -<p class="c017">The date of our traveller’s various excursions -through the kingdom of Fez is unknown, but he apparently, -like many other travellers, visited foreign -countries before he had examined his own, and I -have therefore placed his adventures in Morocco -before those which occurred to him at home. In an -excursion to the seacoast he passed through Anfa, -an extensive city founded by the Romans, on the -margin of the ocean, and in a position so salubrious -and agreeable that, taking into account the generous -character and polished manners of the inhabitants, -it might justly be considered the most delightful -place in all Africa. From hence he proceeded -through Mansora and Nuchailu to Rabat, once a -vast and splendid city, abounding with palaces, caravansaries, -baths, and gardens, but now, by wars and -civil dissensions, reduced to a heap of ruins, rendered -doubly melancholy by the figures of a few -wretched inhabitants who still clung to the spot, -and flitted about like spectres among the dilapidated -edifices. The scene, compared with that -which the city once presented, was so generative -of sad thought, that on beholding it our traveller -sank into a sombre revery which ended in tears. -From this place he proceeded northward, and passing -through many cities, arrived at a small town -called Thajiah, in whose vicinity was the ancient -tomb of a saint, upon which, according to the traditions -of the country, a long catalogue of miracles -had been performed, numerous individuals having -been preserved by this tomb, but in what manner -is not specified, from the jaws of lions and other -ferocious beasts. The scene is rugged, the ground -steril, the climate severe; yet so high was the -veneration in which the sanctity of the tomb was -held, that incredible numbers of pilgrims resorted -thither in consequence of vows made in situations -of imminent danger, and encamping round the<span class="pageno" id="Page_129">129</span> -holy spot, had the appearance of an army bivouacking -in the wood.</p> - -<p class="c017">In the year 1513, having seen whatever he judged -most worthy of notice in Morocco and Fez, and -still considering his travels as only begun, he once -more left home, and proceeded eastward along the -shores of the Mediterranean towards Telemsan and -Algiers. Upon entering the former kingdom he -abandoned the seacoast, and striking off towards -the right, through mountainous ridges of moderate -elevation, entered the wild and desolate region -called the Desert of Angad, where, amid scanty -herds of antelopes, wild goats, and ostriches, the -lonely Bedouin wanders, his hand being against -every man, and every man’s hand against him. -Through this desolate tract the merchant bound -from Telemsan to Fez winds his perilous way, dreading -the sand-storm, the simoom, the lion, and other -physical ministers of death, less than the fierce passions -of its gloomy possessors, stung to madness by -hunger and suffering. Leo, however, traversed this -long waste without accident or adventure, and his -curiosity being satisfied, returned to the inhabited -part of the country, where, if there was less call for -romantic and chivalrous daring, there was at all -events more pleasure to be enjoyed, and more -knowledge to be acquired. Passing through various -small places little noticed by modern geographers, -he at length arrived at Hunain, an inconsiderable -but handsome city, on the Mediterranean, -surrounded by a well-built wall, flanked with towers. -Hither the Venetians, excluded from Oran by -the Spaniards, who were then masters of that port, -brought all the rich merchandise which they annually -poured into Telemsan, in consequence of which -chiefly the merchants of Hunain had grown rich; -and taste and more elegant manners following, as -usual, in the train of Plutus, the city was embellished, -and the comfort of the inhabitants increased.<span class="pageno" id="Page_130">130</span> -The houses, constructed in an airy and tasteful -style, with verandahs shaded by clustering vines, -fountains, and floors exquisitely ornamented with -mosaics, were, perhaps, the most agreeable dwellings -in Northern Africa; but the inconstant tide of -commerce having found other channels, the prosperity -of Hunain had already begun to decline.</p> - -<p class="c017">From hence he proceeded through the ancient -Haresgol to the capital, an extensive city, which, -though inferior in size and magnificence to Fez, was -nevertheless adorned with numerous baths, fountains, -caravansaries, and mosques. The prince’s -palace, situated in the southern quarter of the city, -and opening on one side into the plain, was surrounded -by delightful gardens, in which a great number -of fountains kept up a perpetual coolness in the -air. Issuing forth from the city he observed on all -sides numerous villas, to which the wealthier citizens -retired during the heats of summer; and in the -midst of meadows, sprinkled thick with flowers, -whole groves of fruit-trees, such as the orange, the -peach, and the date, and at their feet a profusion of -melons and other similar fruit, the whole forming a -landscape of surpassing beauty. The literary men, -the ulemas, the notaries, and the Jews of Telemsan -inhabited an elegant suburb, situated on a hill at a -short distance from the city; and these, as well as -all other ranks of men, lead a tranquil and secure -life, under the government of a just and beneficent -prince. Here Leo remained several months as the -king’s guest, living sumptuously in the palace, and -otherwise experiencing the liberality of his host.</p> - -<p class="c017">On his departure from Telemsan he entered the -country of the Beni Rasid, a tribe of Arabs living -under the protection of the King of Telemsan, and -paying him tribute, yet caring little for his authority, -and robbing his guests and servants without compunction, -as Leo, on this occasion, learned to his -cost. These rude people were divided into two<span class="pageno" id="Page_131">131</span> -classes, the mountaineers and the dwellers on the -plain, the latter of whom were shepherds, living in -tents, and feeding immense droves of camels and -cattle, according to the primitive custom of the Bedouins; -while the former, who had erected themselves -houses and villages, were addicted to agriculture, -and other useful arts.</p> - -<p class="c017">Still proceeding towards the east, he arrived at -the large and opulent town of Batha, which had -been but recently erected, in a plain of great extent -and fertility; and as, like Jonah’s gourd, it had -sprung up, as it were, in a night, it soon felt the hot -rays of war, and perished as rapidly. The whole -plain had been destitute of inhabitants until a certain -man, whom Leo denominates a hermit, but who -in ancient Greece would have been justly dignified -with the name of sage, settled there with his family. -The fame of his piety quickly spread. His flocks -and herds increased rapidly. He paid no tribute to -any one; but, on the contrary, as the circle of his -reputation enlarged, gradually embracing the whole -of the surrounding districts, and extending over the -whole Mohammedan world, both in Africa and Asia, -presents, which might be regarded as a tribute paid -to virtue, flowed in upon him from all sides, and -rendered him the wealthiest man in the country. -His conduct quickly showed that he deserved his -prosperity. Five hundred young men, desirous of -being instructed by him in the ways of religion and -morality, flocked to his camp, as it were became his -disciples, and were entertained and taught by him -gratis. When they considered themselves sufficiently -informed, they returned to their homes, carrying -with them a high idea of his wisdom and disinterestedness. -Our traveller found on his arrival -about one hundred tents clustered together upon the -plain, of which some were destined for the reception -of strangers, others for the shepherds, and -others for the family of the chieftain, which, including<span class="pageno" id="Page_132">132</span> -his own wives and female slaves, all of whom -were superbly dressed, amounted to at least five -hundred persons. This man was held in the highest -estimation, as well by the Arab tribes in the neighbourhood, -as by the King of Telemsan; and it was -the reports which were everywhere spread concerning -his virtues and his piety that induced Leo -to pay him a visit. The behaviour of the chieftain -towards his guest, who remained with him three -days, and in all probability might have staid as -many months had he thought proper, was not such -as to detract from the idea which the voice of fame -had everywhere circulated of him. However, his -learning was deeply tinctured with the superstitions -of the times, consisting for the most part of an acquaintance -with that crabbed and abstruse jargon in -which the mysteries of magic and alchymy were -wrapped up from the vulgar, whose chief merit lying -in its extreme difficulty, deluded men into the pursuit -of it, as the meteors of a marsh lead the night-wanderer -over fens and morasses.</p> - -<p class="c017">Leaving the camp of the alchymist, our traveller -proceeded to Algiers, where the famous Barbarossa -then exercised sovereign power. This city, originally -built by the native Africans, was at first called -Mesgana, from the name of its founder; but afterward, -for some reason not now discoverable, it obtained -the appellation of <i>Geseir</i>, or the “island,” -which European nations have corrupted into Algiers. -Its population in the time of Leo was four thousand -families, which, considering how families are -composed in Mohammedan countries, would at least -amount to sixty thousand souls. The public edifices -were large and sumptuous, particularly the -baths, khans, and mosques, which were built in the -most tasteful and striking manner. The northern -wall of the city was washed by the sea, and along -the top of it ran a fine terrace or public promenade, -whence the inhabitants might enjoy the prospect of<span class="pageno" id="Page_133">133</span> -the blue waves, skimmed by milk-white water-fowl, -or studded by innumerable ships and galleys, perpetually -entering or issuing from the port. The houses, -rising one behind another, in rows, upon the side of -a lofty hill, all enjoyed the cool breeze blowing from -the Mediterranean, as well as the pleasing view of -its waters. A small river which ran at the eastern -extremity of the city turned numerous mills, and -furnished the city with abundance of pure limpid -water; and the vicinity, for several miles round, was -covered with delightful gardens, and corn-fields of -prodigious fertility. Here our traveller remained -some time, and it being an interesting period, the -struggles between the Turks and Spaniards having -now approached their close, and the star of Barbarossa -rising rapidly, he no doubt enjoyed the triumph -of Islamism, and the humiliation of the power -by which, while an infant, he had been driven from -his home. His host during his stay was a learned -and curious person, who had previously been sent -on an embassy into Spain, from whence, with patriotic -zeal, he had brought three thousand Arabian -manuscripts.</p> - -<p class="c017">From Algiers Leo proceeded to Bugia, where he -found Barbarossa, whose active genius would admit of -no relaxation or repose, laying siege to the fortress; -before he had advanced many leagues towards the -east, however, he heard the news of the death of -this redoubted chief, who, being cut off at Telemsan, -was succeeded in the sovereignty of Algiers by -his brother Kairaddin. It was at this time that -the Emperor Charles V. turned his victorious arms -against Algiers, where, meeting with a severe check -from Barbarossa, part of his chivalry falling on the -plain and part being taken, his pride was humbled -and his glory tarnished by the intrepid valour of a -troop of banditti. Proceeding eastward from Bugia -through many towns of inferior note, yet in many -instances bearing marks of a Roman origin, he<span class="pageno" id="Page_134">134</span> -arrived in a few days at Kosantina, a city undoubtedly -founded by the Romans, and at that period -surrounded by strong walls of black hewn stone, -erected by the founders. It was situated upon the -southern slope of a lofty mountain, hemmed round -by tremendous rocks, between which, through a -deep and narrow channel, the river Sufegmare -wound round a great portion of the city, forming, as -far as it went, a natural ditch. Two gates only, the -one opening towards the rising, the other towards -the setting sun, lead into the place; on the other -sides enormous bastions or inaccessible precipices -prohibit all approach to the city, which at that period -was extremely populous, and adorned with magnificent -public buildings, such as monasteries, colleges, -and mosques. The inhabitants, who were a warlike -and polished people, carried on an extensive -trade in oil and silk with the Moors of the interior, -receiving in return slaves and dates, the latter of -which Leo here found cheaper and more plentiful -than in any other part of Barbary.</p> - -<p class="c017">The plain of Kosantina was intersected by a river, -and of immense fertility. Upon this plain numerous -structures in an ancient style of architecture were -scattered about, and excellent gardens were planted -on both sides of the stream, to which you descended -by steps cut in the solid rock. Between the city -and the river is a Roman triumphal arch, supposed -by the inhabitants to have been an ancient castle, -which, as they affirm, afforded a retreat to innumerable -demons, previous to the Mussulman conquest -of the city, when, from respect to the true -believers, they took their departure. In the midst -of the stream a very extraordinary edifice was seen. -Pillars, walls, and roof were hewn out of the rock; -but, notwithstanding the singularity of its construction, -it was put to no better use than to shelter the -washerwomen of the city. A very remarkable -warm bath, likewise, was found in the vicinity of<span class="pageno" id="Page_135">135</span> -Kosantina, around which, attracted by some peculiarity -in the soil, innumerable tortoises were seen, -which the women of the place believed to be demons -in disguise, and accused of causing all the fevers and -other diseases by which they might be attacked. A -little farther towards the east, close to a fountain of -singular coldness, was a marble structure adorned -with hieroglyphics and enriched with statues, which -in the eyes of the natives were so close a resemblance -to life that, to account for the phenomenon, -they invented a legend, according to which this -building was formerly a school, both masters and -pupils of which were turned into marble for their -wickedness.</p> - -<p class="c017">In his way from Kosantina to Tunis, he passed by -two cities, or rather names of cities, the one immortalized -by the prowess and enterprise of its -children, the other by the casual mention of the -loftiest of modern poets; I mean Carthage and -Biserta. The former fills all ancient history with -its glory; but the reader would probably never have -heard of the latter but that its name is found in -Paradise Lost:—</p> - -<div class="lg-container-b"> -<div class="linegroup"> - <div class="group"> - <div class="line">And all who since, baptized or infidel,</div> - <div class="line">Jousted in Aspramont or Montalban,</div> - <div class="line">Damasco, or Marocco, or Trebisond,</div> - <div class="line">Or whom <i>Biserta</i> sent from Africk shore,</div> - <div class="line">When Charlemagne with all his peerage fell</div> - <div class="line">By Fontarabia.</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p class="c017">Carthage, though fallen to the lowest depths of -misery, still contained a small number of inhabitants, -who concealed their wretchedness amid the ruins of -triumphal arches, aqueducts, and fortifications. Proceeding -westward from Tunis as far as the desert -of Barca, and visiting all the principal towns, whether -in the mountains or the plains, without meeting -with any personal adventures which he thought -worthy of describing, he returned to Fez, and prepared -for his second journey to Timbuctoo and the -other interior states of Africa.</p> - -<p><span class="pageno" id="Page_136">136</span></p> - -<p class="c017">Crossing Mount Atlas, and proceeding directly towards -the south, he entered the province of Segelmessa, -extending from the town of Garselvin to the -river Ziz, a length of about one hundred and twenty -miles. Here commences that scarcity of water -which is the curse of this part of Africa. Few or no -inequalities in the surface of the ground, scanty -traces of cultivation, human habitations occurring at -wide intervals, and, in short, nothing to break the -dreary uniformity of the scene but a few scattered -date-palms waving their fanlike leaves over the -brown desert, where at every step the foot was in -danger of alighting upon a scorpion resting in the -warm sand. The few streams which creep in winter -over this miserable waste shrink away and disappear -before the scorching rays of the summer sun, -which penetrate the soil to a great depth, and pump -up every particle of moisture as far as they reach. -Nothing then remains to the inhabitants but a brackish -kind of water, which they obtain from wells sunk -extremely deep in the earth. Near the capital of -this province, which is surrounded by strong walls, -and said to have been founded by the Romans, Leo -spent seven months; and except that the air was -somewhat too humid in winter, found the place both -salubrious and agreeable.</p> - -<p class="c017">As he advanced farther into the desert, he daily -became more and more of Pindar’s opinion, that of -all the elements water is the best,—the wells becoming -fewer, and their produce more scanty. Many -of these pits are lined round with the skins and bones -of camels, in order to prevent the water from being -absorbed by the sand, or choked up when the winds -arise, and drive the finer particles in burning clouds -over the desert. When this happens, however, nothing -but certain death awaits the traveller, who is -continually reminded of the fate which awaits him -by observing scattered around upon the sand the -bones of his predecessors, or their more recent bodies<span class="pageno" id="Page_137">137</span> -withered up and blackening in the sun. The well-known -resource of killing a camel for the water contained -in his stomach is frequently resorted to, and -sometimes preserves the lives of the merchants. In -crossing this tremendous scene of desolation, Leo -discovered two marble monuments, when or by -whom erected he could not learn, upon which was -an epitaph recording the manner in which those who -slept beneath had met their doom. The one was an -exceedingly opulent merchant, the other a person -whose business it was to furnish caravans with -water and provisions. On their arriving at this spot, -scorched by the sun, and their entrails tortured by -the most excruciating thirst, there remained but a -very small quantity of water between them. The -rich man, whose thirst now made him regard his -gold as dirt, purchased a single cup of this celestial -nectar for ten thousand ducats; but that which -might possibly have saved the life of one of them -being divided between both, only served to prolong -their sufferings for a moment, as they here sunk -into that sleep from which there is no waking upon -earth.</p> - -<p class="c017">Yet, strange as it may appear, this inhospitable -desert is overrun by numerous animals, which, therefore, -must either be endued by nature with the power -of resisting thirst, or with the instinct to discover -springs of water where man fails. Our traveller -was very near participating the fate of the merchant -above commemorated. Day after day they toiled -along the sands without being able to discover one -drop of water on their way; so that the small quantity -they had brought with them, which was barely -sufficient for five days, was compelled to serve them -for ten. Twelve miles south of Segelmessa they -reached a small castle built in the desert by the -Arabs, but found there nothing but heaps of sand and -black stones. A few orange or lemon-trees blooming -in the waste were the only signs of vegetation<span class="pageno" id="Page_138">138</span> -which met their eyes until they arrived at Tebelbelt, -or Tebelbert, one hundred miles south of Segelmessa, -a city thickly inhabited, abounding in water -and dates. Here the inhabitants employ themselves -greatly in hunting the ostrich, the flesh of which is -among them an important article of food.</p> - -<p class="c017">They now proceeded through a country utterly -desolate, where a house or a well of water was not -met with above once in a hundred miles, reckoning -from the well of Asanad to that of Arsan, about one -hundred and fifty miles north of Timbuctoo. In the -first part of this journey, through what is called the -desert of Zuensiga, numerous bodies of men who -had died of thirst on their way were found lying -along the sand, and not a single well of water was -met with during nine days. It were to be wished -that Leo had entered a little more minutely into the -description of this part of his travels, but he dismisses -it with the remark that it would have taken up a -whole year to give a full account of what he saw. -However, after a toilsome and dangerous journey, -the attempt to achieve which has cost so many European -lives, he reached Timbuctoo for the second -time, the name of the reigning chief or prince being -Abubellr Izchia.</p> - -<p class="c017">The city of Timbuctoo, the name of which was -first given to the kingdom of which it was the capital -only about Leo’s time, is said to have been founded -in the 610th year of the Hejira, by a certain Meusa -Suleyman, about twelve miles from a small arm or -branch of the Niger. The houses originally erected -here had now dwindled into small huts built with -chalk and thatched with straw; but there yet remained -a mosque built with stone in an elegant -style of architecture, and a palace for which the -sovereigns of Central Africa were indebted to the -skill of a native of Granada. However, the number -of artificers, merchants, and cloth and cotton weavers, -who had all their shops in the city, was very considerable.<span class="pageno" id="Page_139">139</span> -Large quantities of cloth were likewise -conveyed thither by the merchants of Barbary. The -upper class of women wore veils, but servants, market-women, -and others of that description exposed -their faces. The citizens were generally very rich, -and merchants were so highly esteemed, that the -king thought it no derogation to his dignity to give -his two daughters in marriage to two men of this -rank. Wells were here numerous, the water of -which was extremely sweet; and during the inundation, -the water of the Niger was introduced into -the city by a great number of aqueducts. The country -was rich in corn, cattle, and butter; but salt, -which was brought from the distance of five hundred -miles, was so scarce, that Leo saw one camel-load -sold while he was there for eighty pieces of gold. -The king was exceedingly rich for those times, and -kept up a splendid court. Whenever he went abroad, -whether for pleasure or to war, he always rode upon -a camel, which some of the principal nobles of his -court led by the bridle. His guard consisted entirely -of cavalry. When any of his subjects had occasion -to address him, he approached the royal presence in -the most abject manner, then, falling prostrate on -the ground, and sprinkling dust upon his head and -shoulders, explained his business; and in this manner -even strangers and the ambassadors of foreign -princes were compelled to appear before him. His -wars were conducted in the most atrocious manner; -poisoned arrows being used, and such as escaped -those deadly weapons and were made prisoners were -sold for slaves in the capital; even such of his own -subjects as failed to pay their tribute being treated -in the same manner. Horses were extremely rare. -The merchants and courtiers made use of little ponies -when travelling, the noble animals brought thither -from Barbary being chiefly purchased by the king, -who generally paid a great price for them. Leo -seems to have been astonished at finding no Jews at<span class="pageno" id="Page_140">140</span> -Timbuctoo; but his majesty was so fierce an enemy -to the Hebrew race, that he not only banished them -his dominions, but made it a crime punishable with -confiscation of property to have any commerce with -them. Timbuctoo at this period contained a great -number of judges, doctors, priests, and learned men, -all of whom were liberally provided for by the prince; -and an immense number of manuscripts were annually -imported from Barbary, the trade in books being, -in fact, the most lucrative branch of commerce. -Their gold money, the only kind coined in the country, -was without image or superscription; but those -small shells, still current on the Coromandel and -Malabar coasts, and in the islands of the Indian -Ocean, under the name of <i>cowries</i>, were used in small -transactions, four hundred of them being equivalent -to a piece of gold. Of these gold pieces, six and -two-thirds weighed an ounce. The inhabitants, a -mild and gentle race, spent a large portion of their -time in singing, dancing, and festivities, which they -were enabled to do by the great number of slaves -of both sexes which they maintained. The city was -extremely liable to conflagrations, almost one-half -of the houses having been burnt down between the -first and second visits of our traveller,—a space of -not more than eleven or twelve years. Neither gardens -nor fruit-trees adorned the environs.</p> - -<p class="c017">This account of the state of Timbuctoo in the beginning -of the sixteenth century I have introduced, -that the reader might be able to compare it with -the modern descriptions of Major Laing and Caillé, -and thus discover the amount of the progress which -the Mohammedans of Central Africa have made towards -civilization. I suspect, however, that whatever -may now be the price of salt, the book trade -has not increased; and that whether the natives -dance more or less than formerly, they are neither -so gentle in their manners nor so wealthy in their -possessions.</p> - -<p><span class="pageno" id="Page_141">141</span></p> - -<p class="c017">From Timbuctoo Leo proceeded to the town of -Cabra on the Niger, which was then supposed to -discharge its waters into the Atlantic; for the merchants -going to the coast of Guinea embarked upon -the river at this place, whence they dropped down -the stream to the seashore. Still travelling southward, -he arrived at a large city without walls, which -he calls Gajo, four hundred miles from Timbuctoo. -Excepting the dwellings of the prince and his courtiers, -the houses were mere huts, though many of the -merchants are said to have been wealthy, while an -immense concourse of Moors and other strangers -flocked thither to purchase the cloths and other merchandise -of Barbary and Europe. The inhabitants -of the villages and the shepherds, by far the greater -portion of the population, lived in extreme misery, -and, poverty extinguishing all sense of decorum, -went so nearly naked, that even the distinctions -of sex were scarcely concealed. In winter they -wrapped themselves in the skins of animals, and -wore a rude kind of sandal manufactured from camel’s -hide.</p> - -<p class="c017">This was the term of Leo’s travels towards the -south. He now turned his face towards the rising -sun, and proceeding three hundred miles in that direction, -amid the dusky and barbarous tribes who -crouch beneath the weight of tyranny and ignorance -in that part of Africa, arrived in the kingdom of Guber, -having on the way crossed a desert of considerable -extent, which commences about forty miles beyond -the Niger. The whole country was a plain, -inundated in the rainy season by the Niger, and surrounded -by lofty mountains. Agriculture and the -useful arts were here cultivated with activity. Flocks -and cattle abounded, but their size was extremely -diminutive. The sandal worn by the inhabitants -exactly resembled that of the ancient Romans. From -hence he proceeded to Agad, a city and country -tributary to Timbuctoo, inhabited by the fairest<span class="pageno" id="Page_142">142</span> -negroes of all Africa. The inhabitants of the towns -possessed excellent houses, constructed after the -manner of those of Barbary; but the peasants and -shepherds of the south were nomadic hordes, living, -like the Carir of the Deccan, in large baskets, or -portable wicker huts. He next arrived at Kanoo, -five hundred miles east of the Niger, a country inhabited -by tribes of farmers and herdsmen, and -abounding in corn, rice, and cotton. Among the -cultivated fields many deserts, however, and wood-covered -mountains were interspersed. In these -woods the orange and the lemon were found in great -plenty. The houses of the town of Kanoo, like those -of Timbuctoo, were built of chalk. Proceeding eastward -through a country infested by gipsies, occasionally -turning aside to visit more obscure regions, -he at length arrived at Bornou, a kingdom of great -extent, bounded on the north and south by deserts, -on the west by Gnagera, and on the east by an immense -country, denominated Gaoga by Leo, but -known at present by the various names of Kanem, -Begharmi, Dar Saley, Darfur, and Kordofan.</p> - -<p class="c017">The scenery and produce of Bornou were exceedingly -various. Mountains, valleys, plains, and deserts -alternating with each other composed a prospect -of striking aspect; and the population, consisting of -wild soldiers, merchants, artisans, farmers, herdsmen, -and shepherds, some glittering with arms, or -wrapped in ample drapery, others nearly as naked -as when they left the womb, appeared no less picturesque -or strange. Leo’s stay in this country was -short, and the persons from whom he acquired his -information must have been either ignorant or credulous; -for, according to them, no vestige of religion -existed among the people (which is not true of any -nation on earth), while the women and children were -possessed by all men in common. Proper names -were not in use. When persons spoke of their -neighbours, they designated them from some corporeal<span class="pageno" id="Page_143">143</span> -or mental quality, as tallness, fatness, acuteness, -bravery, or stupidity. The chief’s revenue consisted -of the tenth of the produce of the soil, and of such -captives and spoil as he could take in war. Slaves -were here so plentiful, and horses so scarce, that -twenty men were sometimes given in exchange for -one of those animals. The prince then reigning, a -narrow-minded and avaricious man, had contrived -by various means to amass immense riches; his bits, -his spurs, his cups, and vases were all of gold; but -whenever he purchased any article from a foreign -merchant, he preferred paying with slaves rather -than with money.</p> - -<p class="c017">From Bornou he proceeded through Gaoga towards -Nubia, and approached those regions of the Nile -where, amid poverty and barbarism, the civilization -of the old world has left so many indestructible -traces of the gigantic ideas which throw their -shadows over the human imagination in the dawn of -time. Coming up to the banks of the mysterious -river, around the sources of which curiosity has so -long flitted in vain, he found the stream so shallow -in many places that it could be easily forded; but -whether on account of its immense spread in those -parts, or the paucity of water, he does not inform us. -Dongola, or Dangala, the capital, though consisting -of mere chalk huts thatched with straw, contained -at that period no less than one hundred and fifty -thousand inhabitants. The people, who were rich -and enterprising, held knowledge in the highest -esteem. No other city, however, existed in the -country; the remainder of the population, chiefly or -wholly occupied in the culture of the soil, living in -scattered villages or hamlets. Grain was extremely -plentiful, as was also the sugarcane, though its use -and value were unknown; and immense quantities -of ivory and sandal-wood were exported. However, -at this period, the most remarkable produce of Nubia -was a species of violent poison, the effect of which<span class="pageno" id="Page_144">144</span> -was little less rapid than that of prussic acid, since -the tenth part of a grain would prove mortal to a man -in a few minutes, while a grain would cause instantaneous -death. The price of an ounce of this deleterious -drug, the nature of which is totally unknown, -was one hundred pieces of gold; but it was sold to -foreigners only, who, when they purchased it, were -compelled to make oath that no use should be made -of it in Nubia. A sum equal to the price of the article -was paid to the sovereign, and to dispose of the -smallest quantity without his knowledge was death, -if discovered; but whether the motive to this severity -was fiscal or moral is not stated. The Nubians -were engaged in perpetual hostilities with their -neighbours, their principal enemy being a certain -Ethiopian nation, whose sovereign, according to -Leo, was that Prester John so famous in that and -the succeeding ages; a despicable and wretched -race, speaking an unknown jargon, and subsisting -upon the milk and flesh of camels, and such wild -animals as their deserts produced. Leo, however, -evidently saw but little of Nubia; for though by no -means likely to have passed such things over without -notice had they been known to him, he never -once alludes to the ruins of Meloë, the temples and -pyramids of Mount Barkal, or those enormous statues, -obelisks, and other monuments which mark -the track of ancient civilization down the course of -the Nile, and present to the eye of the traveller one -of the earliest cradles of our race.</p> - -<p class="c017">From this country he proceeded to Egypt, and -paused a moment on his journey to contemplate the -ruins of Thebes, a city, the founding of which some -of his countrymen attributed to the Greeks, others to -the Romans. Some fourteen or fifteen hundred peasants -were found creeping like pismires at the foot of -the gigantic monuments of antiquity. They ate good -dates, grapes, and rice, however, and the women, -who were lovely and well-formed, rejoiced the streets<span class="pageno" id="Page_145">145</span> -with their gayety. At Cairo, where he seems to -have made a considerable stay, he saw many strange -things, all of which he describes with that conciseness -and <i>naïveté</i> for which most of our older -travellers are distinguished. Walking one day by -the door of a public bath, in the market-place of -Bain Elcasraim, he observed a lady of distinction, -and remarkable for her beauty, walking out into the -streets, which she had no sooner done than she was -seized and violated before the whole market by one -of those naked saints who are so numerous in Egypt -and the other parts of Africa. The magistrates of -the city, who felt that their own wives might next -be insulted, were desirous of inflicting condign punishment -upon the wretch, but were deterred by fear -of the populace, who held such audacious impostors -in veneration. On her way home after this scene, -the woman was followed by an immense multitude, -who contended with each other for the honour of -touching her clothes, as if some peculiar virtue had -been communicated to them by the touch of the -saint; and even her husband, when informed of what -had happened, expressed the greatest joy, and thanking -God as if an extraordinary blessing had been -conferred upon his family, made a great entertainment -and distributed alms to the poor, who were -thus taught to look upon such events as highly -fortunate.</p> - -<p class="c017">Upon another occasion Leo, returning from a celebrated -mosque in one of the suburbs, beheld another -curious scene no less characteristic of the manners -of the times. In the area before a palace erected -by a Mameluke sultan, an immense populace was -assembled, in the midst of whom a troop of strolling -players, with dancing camels, asses, and dogs, were -exhibiting their tricks, to the great entertainment -of the mob, and even of our traveller himself, who -thought it a very pleasant spectacle. Having first -exhibited his own skill, the principal actor turned<span class="pageno" id="Page_146">146</span> -round to the ass, and muttering certain words, the -animal fell to the ground, turning up his feet, swelling -and closing his eyes as if at the last gasp. When -he appeared to be completely dead, his master, turning -round to the multitude, lamented the loss of his -beast, and hoped they would have pity upon his misfortune. -When he had collected what money he could,—“You -suppose,” says he, “that my ass is dead. -Not at all. The poor fellow, well knowing the -poverty of his master, has merely been feigning all -this while, that I might acquire wherewith to provide -provender for him.” Then approaching the ass, he -ordered him to rise, but not being obeyed, he seized -a stick, and belaboured the poor creature most unmercifully. -Still no signs of life appeared. “Well,” -said the man, once more addressing the people, “you -must know, that the sultan has issued an order that -to-morrow by break of day the whole population of -Cairo are to march out of the city to behold a grand -triumph, the most beautiful women being mounted -upon asses, for whom the best oats and Nile water -will be provided.” At these words the ass sprang -upon his feet with a bound, and exhibiting tokens -of extreme joy. “Ah, ha!” continued the mountebank; -“I have succeeded, have I? Well, I was about -to say that I had hired this delicate animal of mine -to the principal magistrate of the city for his little -ugly old wife.” The ass, as if possessed of human -feelings, now hung his ears, and began to limp about -as if lame of one foot. Then the man said, “You -imagine, I suppose, that the young women will laugh -at you.” The ass bent down his head, as if nodding -assent. “Come, cheer up,” exclaimed his master, -“and tell me which of all the pretty women now -present you like best!” The animal, casting his -eyes round the circle, and selecting one of the -prettiest, walked up to her, and touched her with -his head; at which the delighted multitude with -roars of laughter exclaimed, “Behold the ass’s wife!”<span class="pageno" id="Page_147">147</span> -At these words, the man sprang upon his beast and -rode away.</p> - -<p class="c017">The ladies of Cairo, when they went abroad, affected -the most superb dresses, adorning their necks -and foreheads with clusters of brilliant gems, and -wearing upon their heads lofty hurlets or coifs -shaped like a tube, and of the most costly materials. -Their cloaks or mantles, exquisitely embroidered, -they covered with a piece of beautiful Indian muslin, -while a thick black veil, thrown over all, enabled -them to see without being seen. These elegant -creatures, however, were very bad wives; for, disdaining -to pay the slightest attention to domestic -affairs, their husbands, like the citizens of modern -Paris, were obliged to purchase their dinners ready -dressed from restaurateurs. They enjoyed the -greatest possible liberty, riding about wherever they -pleased upon asses, which they preferred to horses -for the easiness of their motions. Here and there -among the crowd you heard the strange cry of those -old female practitioners who performed the rite -which introduced those of their own sex into the -Mohammedan church, though their words, as the -traveller observes, were not extremely intelligible.</p> - -<p class="c017">From Egypt Leo travelled into Arabia, Persia, -Tartary, and Turkey, but of his adventures in these -countries no account remains. On returning from -Constantinople, however, by sea, he was taken by -Christian corsairs off the island of Zerbi, on the coast -of Tripoli, and being carried captive into Italy, was -presented to Pope Leo X. at Rome, in 1517. The -pope, who, as is well known, entertained the highest -respect for every thing which bore the name of learning, -no sooner discovered that the Moorish slave -was a person of merit and erudition, than he treated -him in the most honourable manner, settled upon -him a handsome pension, and having caused him to -be instructed in the principles of the Christian religion, -had him baptized, and bestowed upon him his<span class="pageno" id="Page_148">148</span> -own name, Leo. Our traveller now resided principally -at Rome, occasionally quitting it, however, for -Bologna; and having at length acquired a competent -knowledge of the Italian language, became professor -of Arabic. Here he wrote his famous “Description -of Africa,” originally in Arabic, but he afterward -either rewrote or translated it into Italian. What -became of him or where he resided after the death -of his munificient patron is not certainly known.—One -of the editions of Ramusio asserts that he died -at Rome; but according to Widmanstadt, a learned -German orientalist of the sixteenth century, he retired -to Tunis, where, as is usual in such cases, he -returned to his original faith, which he never seems -inwardly to have abandoned. Widmanstadt adds, -that had he not been prevented by circumstances -which he could not control, he should have undertaken -a voyage to Africa expressly for the purpose -of conversing with our learned traveller, so great -was his admiration of his genius and acquirements.</p> - -<p class="c017">With respect to the work by which he will be -known to posterity, and which has furnished the -principal materials for the present life,—his “Description -of Africa,”—its extraordinary merit has -been generally acknowledged. Eyriès, Hartmann, -and Bruns, whose testimony is of considerable -weight, speak of it in high terms; and Ramusio, a -competent judge, observes, that up to his time no -writer had described Africa with so much truth and -exactness. In fact, no person can fail, in the perusal -of this deeply interesting and curious work, to perceive -the intimate knowledge of his subject possessed -by the author, or his capacity to describe what he -had seen with perspicuity and ease. The best -edition of the Latin version, the one I myself have -used, and that which is generally quoted or referred -to, is the one printed by the Elzevirs, at Leyden, in -1632. It has been translated into English, French, -and German, but with what success I am ignorant.</p> - -<div class="pbb"> - <hr class="pb c004" /> -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pageno" id="Page_149">149</span></p> - -<h2 class="c012" id="PIETRO_DELLA_VALLE">PIETRO DELLA VALLE.</h2> -</div> - -<div class="nf-center-c0"> -<div class="nf-center c004"> - <div>Born 1586.—Died 1652.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class="c016"><span class="sc">Pietro</span> della Valle, who, according to Southey, -is “the most romantic in his adventures of all true -travellers,” was descended from an ancient and noble -family, and born at Rome on the 11th of April, 1586. -When his education, which appears to have been -carefully conducted and liberal, was completed, he -addicted himself, with that passionate ardour which -characterized all the actions of his life, to the study -of literature, and particularly poetry; but the effervescence -of his animal spirits requiring some other -vent, he shortly afterward exchanged the closet for -the camp, in the hope that the quarrel between the -pope and the Venetians, and the troubles which ensued -upon the death of Henry IV. of France, would -afford him some opportunity of distinguishing himself. -His expectations being disappointed, however, -he in 1611 embarked on board the Spanish fleet, then -about to make a descent on the coast of Barbary; -but nothing beyond a few skirmishes taking place, -he again beheld his desire of glory frustrated, and -returned to Rome.</p> - -<p class="c017">Here vexations of another kind awaited him. Relinquishing -the services of Fame for that of an earthly -mistress, he found himself no less unsuccessful, the -lady preferring some illustrious unknown, whose -name, like her own, is now overwhelmed with “the -husks and formless ruin of oblivion.” Pietro, however, -severely felt the sting of such a rejection; and -in the gloomy meditations which it gave birth to, -conceived a plan which, as he foresaw, fulfilled his -most ambitious wishes, and attached an imperishable<span class="pageno" id="Page_150">150</span> -reputation to his name. The idea was no sooner -conceived than he proceeded to put it in execution, -and taking leave of his friends and of Rome, repaired -to Naples, in order to consult with his friend, Mario -Schipano, a physician of that city, distinguished for -his oriental learning and abilities, concerning the -best means of conducting his hazardous enterprise. -Fortunately he possessed sufficient wealth to spurn -the counsel of sloth and timidity, which, when any act -of daring is proposed, are always at hand, disguised -as prudence and good sense, to cast a damp upon -the springs of energy, or to travesty and misrepresent -the purposes of the bold. Pietro, however, -was not to be intimidated. The wonders and glories -of the East were for ever present to his imagination, -and having heard mass, and been solemnly clothed -by the priest with the habit of a pilgrim, he proceeded -to Venice in order to embark for Constantinople. -The ship in which he sailed left the port on -the 6th of June, 1614. No event of peculiar interest -occurred during the voyage, which, lying along the -romantic shores and beautiful islands of Greece, -merely served to nourish and strengthen Pietro’s -enthusiasm. On drawing near the Dardanelles the -sight of the coast of Troy, with its uncertain ruins -and heroic tombs, over which poetry has spread an -atmosphere brighter than any thing belonging to -mere physical nature, awoke all the bright dreams -of boyhood, and hurrying on shore, his heart overflowing -with rapture, he kissed the earth from which, -according to tradition, the Roman race originally -sprung.</p> - -<p class="c017">From the Troad to Constantinople the road lies -over a tract hallowed by the footsteps of antiquity, -and at every step Pietro felt his imagination excited -by some memorial of the great of other days. On -arriving at the Ottoman capital, where he purposed -making a long stay, one of his first cares was to -acquire a competent knowledge of the language of<span class="pageno" id="Page_151">151</span> -the country, which he did as much for the vanity, -as he himself acknowledges, of exhibiting his accomplishments -on his return to Italy, where the -knowledge of that language was rare, as for the incalculable -benefit which must accrue from it during -his travels. Here he for the first time tasted coffee, -at that time totally unknown in Italy. He was likewise -led to entertain hopes of being able to obtain -from the sultan’s library a complete copy of the -Decades of Livy; but after flitting before him some -time like a phantom, the manuscript vanished, and -the greater portion of the mighty Paduan remained -veiled as before. While he was busily engaged in -these researches, the plague broke out, every house -in Galata, excepting that of the French ambassador, -in which he resided, was infected; corpses and -coffins met the sickened eye wherever it turned; -the chief of his attendants pined away through -terror; and, although at first he affected to laugh -and make merry with his fears, they every day fed -so abundantly upon horrors and rumours of horrors, -that they at length became an overmatch for his -philosophy, and startled him with the statement that -one hundred and forty thousand victims had already -perished, and that peradventure Pietro della Valle -might be the next.</p> - -<p class="c017">This consideration caused him to turn his eye towards -Egypt; and although the plague shortly afterward -abated, his love of motion having been once -more awakened, he bade adieu to Constantinople, -and sailed for Alexandria. Arriving in Egypt, he -ascended the Nile to Cairo, viewed the pyramids, -examined the mummy-pits; and then, with a select -number of friends and attendants, departed across -the desert to visit Horeb and Sinai, the wells of -Moses, and other places celebrated in the Bible. -This journey being performed in the heart of winter, -he found Mount Sinai covered with snow, which did -not, however, prevent his rambling about among its<span class="pageno" id="Page_152">152</span> -wild ravines, precipices, and chasms; when, his pious -curiosity being gratified, he visited Ælau or Ailoth, -the modern Akaba, and returned by Suez to Cairo. -Among the very extraordinary things he beheld in -this country were a man and woman upwards of -eight feet in height, natives of Upper Egypt, whom -he measured himself: and tortoises as large as the -body of a carriage!</p> - -<p class="c017">His stay in Egypt was not of long continuance, -the longing to visit the Holy Land causing him to -regard every other country with a kind of disdain; -and accordingly, joining a small caravan which was -proceeding thither across the desert, he journeyed -by El Arish and Gaza to Jerusalem. After witnessing -the various mummeries practised in the Holy -City at Easter by the Roman Catholics, and making -an excursion to the banks of the Jordan, where he -saw a number of female pilgrims plunging naked -into the sacred stream in the view of an immense -multitude, he bent his steps towards Northern Syria, -and hurried forward by the way of Damascus to -Aleppo. In this city he remained some time, his -body requiring some repose, though the ardour and -activity of his mind appeared to be every day increasing. -The journey which he now meditated -across the Arabian Desert into Mesopotamia required -considerable preparation. The mode of travelling -was new. Horses were to be exchanged for camels; -the European dress for that of the East; and instead -of the sun, the stars and the moon were to light -them over the waste.</p> - -<p class="c017">He was now unconsciously touching upon the -most important point of his career. In the caravan -with which he departed from Aleppo, September 16, -1616, there was a young merchant of Bagdad, with -whom, during the journey, he formed a close intimacy. -This young man was constantly in the -habit of entertaining him, as they rode along side by -side through the moonlight, or when they sat down<span class="pageno" id="Page_153">153</span> -in their tent during the heat of the day, with the -praises of a young lady of Bagdad, who, according -to his description, to every charm of person which -could delight the eye united all those qualities of -heart and mind which render the conquests of beauty -durable. It was clear to Pietro from the beginning -that the youthful merchant was in love, and therefore -he at first paid but little regard to his extravagant -panegyrics; but by degrees the conversations -of his companion produced a sensible effect upon -his own mind, so that his curiosity to behold the -object of so much praise, accompanied, perhaps, by -a slight feeling of another kind, at length grew intense, -and he every day looked upon the slow march -of the camels, and the surface of the boundless plain -before him, with more and more impatience. The -wandering Turcoman with his flocks and herds, rude -tent, and ruder manners, commanded much less -attention than he would have done at any other -period; and even the Bedouins, whose sharp lances -and keen scimitars kept awake the attention of the -rest of the caravan, were almost forgotten by Pietro. -However, trusting to the information of his interested -guide, he represents them as having filled -up the greater number of the wells in the desert, -so that there remained but a very few open, and -these were known to those persons only whose -profession it was to pilot caravans across this ocean -of sand. The sagacity with which these men performed -their duty was wonderful. By night the -stars served them for guides; but when these brilliant -signals were swallowed up in the light of the -sun, they then had recourse to the slight variations -in the surface of the plain, imperceptible to other -eyes, to the appearance or absence of certain plants, -and even to the smell of the soil, by all which signs -they always knew exactly where they were.</p> - -<p class="c017">At length, after a toilsome and dangerous march -of fifteen days, they arrived upon the banks of the -Euphrates, a little after sunrise, and pitched their<span class="pageno" id="Page_154">154</span> -tents in the midst of clumps of cypress and small -cedar-trees. On the following night, as soon as the -moon began to silver over the waters of the Euphrates, -the caravan again put itself in motion; -and, descending along the course of the stream, in six -days arrived at Anah, a city of the Arabs, lying on -both sides of the river, whose broad surface is here -dotted with numerous small islands covered with -fruit-trees. They now crossed the river; and the -merchants of the caravan, avoiding the safe and -commodious road which lay through towns in which -custom-house officers were found, struck off into a -desolate and dangerous route, traversing Mesopotamia -nearly in a right line, and on the 19th of October -reached the banks of the Tigris, a larger and -more rapid river than the Euphrates, though on this -occasion Pietro thought its current less impetuous. -The night before they entered Bagdad the caravan -was robbed in a very dexterous manner. Their tents -were pitched in the plain, the officers of the custom-house -posted around to prevent smuggling; the merchants, -congratulating themselves that they had already -succeeded in eluding the duties almost to the -extent of their desires, had fallen into the sound -sleep which attends on a clear conscience; and Pietro, -his domestics, and the other inmates of the caravan -had followed their example. In the dead of the -night the camp was entered by stealth, the tents -rummaged, and considerable booty carried off. The -banditti, entering Pietro’s tent, and finding all asleep, -opened the trunk in which were all the manuscripts, -designs, and plans he had made during his travels, -carefully packed up, as if for the convenience of -robbers, in a small portable escrutoire; but by an -instinct which was no less fortunate for them than -for the traveller and posterity, since such spoil could -have been of no value to them, they rejected the -escrutoire, and selected all our traveller’s fine linen, -the very articles in which he hoped to have captivated -the beauty whose eulogies had so highly inflamed<span class="pageno" id="Page_155">155</span> -his imagination. A Venetian, who happened -to be in the camp, had his arquebuse stolen from under -his head, and this little incident, as it tended to show -that the robbers had made still more free with others -than with him, somewhat consoled Pietro for the -loss of his linen. As the traveller does not himself -attach any suspicion to the military gentlemen of the -custom-house, it might, perhaps, be uncharitable to -deposite the burden of this theft upon their shoulders; -but in examining all the circumstances of the -transaction, I confess the idea that their ingenuity -was concerned did present itself to me.</p> - -<p class="c017">Next morning the beams of the rising sun, gleaming -upon a thousand slender minarets and lofty-swelling -domes surmounted by gilded crescents, discovered -to him the ancient city of the califs stretching -away right and left to a vast distance over the -plain, while the Tigris, like a huge serpent, rolled -along, cutting the city into two parts, and losing -itself among the sombre buildings which seemed to -tremble over its waters. The camels were once -more loaded, and the caravan, stretching itself out -into one long, narrow column, toiled along over the -plain, and soon entered the dusty, winding streets of -Bagdad. Here Pietro, whose coming had been announced -the evening before by his young commercial -companion, was met by the father of the Assyrian -beauty, a fine patriarchal-looking old man, who entreated -him to be his guest during his stay in Mesopotamia. -This favour Pietro declined, but at the -same time he eagerly accepted of the permission to -visit at his house; and was no sooner completely -established in his own dwelling than he fully availed -himself of this permission.</p> - -<p class="c017">The family to which he became thus suddenly -known was originally of Mardin, but about fourteen -years previously had been driven from thence by the -Kurds, who sacked and plundered the city, and reduced -such of the inhabitants as they could capture<span class="pageno" id="Page_156">156</span> -to slavery. They were Christians of the Nestorian -sect; but Della Valle, who was a bigot in his way, -seems to have regarded them as aliens from the -church of Christ. However, this circumstance did -not prevent the image of Sitti Maani, the eldest of -the old man’s daughters, and the beauty of whom he -had heard so glowing a description in the desert, -from finding its way into his heart, though the idea -of marrying having occurred to him at Aleppo, he -had written home to his relations to provide him -with a suitable wife against his return to Italy. -Maani was now in her eighteenth year. Her mind -had been as highly cultivated as the circumstances -of the times and the country would allow; and her -understanding enabled her to turn all her accomplishments -to advantage. In person, she was a perfect -oriental beauty; dark, even in the eyes of an -Italian, with hair nearly black, and eyes of the same -colour, shaded by lashes of unusual length, she possessed -something of an imperial air. Pietro was -completely smitten, and for the present every image -but that of Maani seemed to be obliterated from his -mind.</p> - -<p class="c017">His knowledge of the Turkish language was now -of the greatest service to him; for, possessing but a -very few words of Arabic, this was the only medium -by which he could make known the colour of his -thoughts either to his mistress or her mother. His -passion, however, supplied him with eloquence, and -by dint of vehement protestations, in this instance -the offspring of genuine affection, he at length succeeded -in his enterprise, and Maani became his wife. -But in the midst of these transactions, when it most -imported him to remain at Bagdad, an event occurred -in his own house which not only exposed him to the -risk of being driven with disgrace from the city, but -extremely endangered his life and that of all those -who were connected with him. His secretary and -valet having for some time entertained a grudge<span class="pageno" id="Page_157">157</span> -against each other, the former, one day seizing the -khanjar, or dagger, of Pietro, stabbed his adversary -to the heart, and the poor fellow dropped down dead -in the arms of his master. The murderer fled. -What course to pursue under such circumstances it -was difficult to determine. Should the event come -to the knowledge of the pasha, both master and servants -might, perhaps, be thought equally guilty, and -be impaled alive; or, if matters were not pushed to -such extremities, it might at least be pretended that -the deceased was the real owner of whatever property -they possessed, in order to confiscate the whole -for the benefit of the state. As neither of these results -was desirable, the safest course appeared to be -to prevent, if possible, the knowledge of the tragedy -from transpiring; a task of some difficulty, as all -the domestics of the household were acquainted -with what had passed. The only individual with -whom Pietro could safely consult upon this occasion -(for he was unwilling to disclose so horrible a transaction -to Maani’s relations) was a Maltese renegade, -a man of some consideration in the city; and for -him, therefore, he immediately despatched a messenger. -This man, when he had heard what had -happened, was of opinion that the body should be -interred in a corner of the house; but Pietro, who -had no desire that so bloody a memorial of the Italian -temperament should remain in his immediate neighbourhood, -and moreover considered it unsafe, thought -it would be much better at the bottom of the Tigris. -The Maltese, most fortunately, possessed a house -and garden on the edge of the river, and thither the -body, packed up carefully in a chest, was quickly -conveyed, though there was much difficulty in preventing -the blood from oozing out, and betraying to -its bearers the nature of their burden. When it was -dark the chest was put on board a boat, and, dropping -down the river, the renegade and two of his -soldiers cautiously lowered it into the water; and<span class="pageno" id="Page_158">158</span> -thus no material proof of the murder remained. The -assassin, who had taken refuge at the house of the -Maltese, was enabled to return to Italy; and the -event, strange to say, was kept secret, though so -many persons were privy to it.</p> - -<p class="c017">When this danger was over, and the beautiful -Maani irrevocably his, Pietro began once more to -feel the passion of the traveller revive, and commenced -those little excursions through Mesopotamia -which afterward enabled Gibbon to pronounce him -the person who had best observed that province. -His first visit, as might be expected, was to the ruins -of Babylon. The party with which he left Bagdad -consisted of Maani, a Venetian, a Dutch painter, -Ibrahim a native of Aleppo, and two Turkish soldiers. -For the first time since the commencement -of his travels, Pietro now selected the longest and -least dangerous road, taking care, moreover, to keep -as near as possible to the farms and villages, in order, -in case of necessity, to derive provisions and succour -from their inhabitants. Maani, who appears to have -had a dash of Kurdish blood in her, rode astride like -a man, and kept her saddle as firmly as any son of -the desert could have done; and Pietro constantly -moved along by her side. When they had performed -a considerable portion of their journey, and, rejoicing -in their good fortune, were already drawing near -Babylon, eight or ten horsemen armed with muskets -and bows and arrows suddenly appeared in the distance, -making towards them with all speed. Pietro -imagined that the day for trying his courage was -now come; and he and his companions, having -cocked their pieces and prepared to offer a desperate -resistance, pushed on towards the enemy. However, -their chivalric spirit was not doomed to be here -put to the test; for, upon drawing near, the horsemen -were found to belong to Bagdad, and the adventure -concluded in civility and mutual congratulations.</p> - -<p><span class="pageno" id="Page_159">159</span></p> - -<p class="c017">Having carefully examined the ruins of Babylon, -the city of Hillah, and the other celebrated spots in -that neighbourhood, the party returned to Bagdad, -from whence he again departed in a few days for -Modain, the site of the ancient Ctesiphon, near which -he had the satisfaction of observing the interior of -an Arab encampment.</p> - -<p class="c017">His curiosity respecting Mesopotamia was now -satisfied; and as every day’s residence among the -Ottomans only seemed more and more to inflame his -hatred of that brutal race, he as much as possible -hastened his departure from Bagdad, having now -conceived the design of serving as a volunteer in the -armies of Persia, at that period at war with Turkey, -and of thus wreaking his vengeance upon the Osmanlees -for the tyranny they exercised on all Christians -within their power. Notwithstanding that war -between the two countries had long been declared, -the Pasha of Bagdad and the Persian authorities on -the frontier continued openly to permit the passage -of caravans; and thus, were he once safe out of -Bagdad with his wife and treasures, there would be -no difficulty in entering Persia. To effect this purpose -he entered into an arrangement with a Persian -muleteer, who was directed to obtain from the pasha -a passport for himself and followers, with a charosh -to conduct them to the extremity of the Turkish dominions. -This being done, the Persian, according -to agreement, left the city, and encamped at a short -distance from the walls, where, as is the custom, he -was visited by the officers of the custom-house; after -which, Pietro caused the various individuals of his -own small party to issue forth by various streets into -the plain, while he himself, dressed as he used to be -when riding out for amusement on the banks of the -Tigris, quitted the town after sunset, and gained the -place of encampment in safety.</p> - -<p class="c017">When the night had now completely descended -upon the earth, and all around was still, the little<span class="pageno" id="Page_160">160</span> -caravan put itself in motion; and being mounted, -some on good sturdy mules, and others on the horses -of the country, they advanced at a rapid rate, fearing -all the way that the pasha might repent of his civility -towards the Persian, and send an order to bring -them back to the city. By break of day they arrived -on the banks of the Diala, a river which discharges -itself into the Tigris; and here, in spite of their impatience, -they were detained till noon, there being -but one boat at the ferry. In six days they reached -the southern branches of the mountains of Kurdistan, -and found themselves suddenly in the midst of -that wild and hardy race, which, from the remotest -ages, has maintained possession of these inexpugnable -fastnesses, which harassed the ten thousand -in their retreat, and still enact a conspicuous part in -all the border wars between the Persians and Turks. -Living for the most part in a dangerous independence, -fiercely spurning the yoke of its powerful -neighbours, though continually embroiled in their -interminable quarrels, speaking a distinct language, -and having a peculiar system of manners, which does -not greatly differ from that of the feudal times, they -may justly be regarded as one of the most extraordinary -races of the Asiatic continent. Some of -them, spellbound by the allurements of wealth and -ease, have erected cities and towns, and addicted -themselves to agriculture and the gainful arts. -Others, preferring that entire liberty which of all -earthly blessings is the greatest in the estimation of -ardent and haughty minds, and regarding luxury as -a species of Circean cup, in its effects debasing and -destructive, covet no wealth but their herds and -flocks, around which they erect no fortifications but -their swords. These are attracted hither and thither -over the wilds by the richness of the pasturage, and -dwell in tents.</p> - -<p class="c017">In Kurdistan, as elsewhere, the winning manners -of Della Valle procured him a hospitable reception.<span class="pageno" id="Page_161">161</span> -The presence of Maani, too, whose youth and beauty -served as an inviolable wall of protection among -brave men, increased his claims to their hospitality; -so that these savage mountaineers, upon whom the -majority of travellers concur in heaping the most -angry maledictions, obtained from the warm-hearted, -grateful Pietro the character of a kind and gentle -people. On the 20th of January, 1617, he quitted -Kurdistan, and entered Persia. The change was -striking. A purer atmosphere, a more productive -and better-cultivated soil, and a far more dense population -than in Turkey, caused him, from the suddenness -of the transition, somewhat to exaggerate, -perhaps, the advantages of this country. It is certain -that the eyes of the traveller, like the fabled -gems of antiquity, carry about the light by which he -views the objects which come before him; and that -the condition of this light is greatly affected by the -state of his animal spirits. Pietro was now in that -tranquil and serene mode of being consequent upon -that enjoyment which conscience approves; and having -passed from a place where dangers, real or -imaginary, surrounded him, into a country where he -at least anticipated safety, if not distinction, it was -natural that his fancy should paint the landscape -with delusive colours. Besides, many real advantages -existed; tents were no longer necessary, there -being at every halting-place a spacious caravansary, -where the traveller could obtain gratis lodgings for -himself and attendants, and shelter for his beasts and -baggage. Fruits, likewise, such as pomegranates, -apples, and grapes, abounded, though the earth was -still deeply covered with snow. If we add to this -that the Persians are a people who pique themselves -upon their urbanity, and, whatever may be the basis -of their character, with which the passing traveller -has little to do, really conduct themselves politely -towards strangers, it will not appear very surprising -that Della Valle, who had just escaped from the<span class="pageno" id="Page_162">162</span> -boorish Ottomans, should have been charmed with -Persia.</p> - -<p class="c017">Arriving at Ispahan, at that period the capital of -the empire, that is, the habitual place of residence -of the shah, his first care, of course, was to taste a -little repose; after which, he resumed his usual custom -of strolling about the city and its environs, observing -the manners, and sketching whatever was -curious in costume and scenery. Here he remained -for several months; but growing tired, as usual, of -calm inactivity, the more particularly as the court -was absent, he now prepared to present himself before -the shah, then in Mazenderan. Accordingly, -having provided a splendid litter for his wife and -her sister, who, like genuine amazons, determined to -accompany him to the wars should he eventually -take up arms in the service of Persia, and provided -every other necessary for the journey, he quitted -Ispahan, and proceeded northward towards the -shores of the Caspian Sea. The journey was performed -in the most agreeable manner imaginable. -Whenever they came up to a pleasant grove, a shady -fountain, or any romantic spot where the greensward -was sprinkled with flowers or commanded a beautiful -prospect, the whole party made a halt; and the -ladies, descending from their litter, which was borne -by two camels, and Pietro from his barb, they sat -down like luxurious gipsies to their breakfast or -dinner, while the nightingales in the dusky recesses -of the groves served them instead of a musician.</p> - -<p class="c017">Proceeding slowly, on account of his harem, as he -terms it, they arrived in seven days at Cashan, where -the imprudence of Maani nearly involved him in a -very serious affair. Being insulted on her way to -the bezestein by an officer, she gave the signal to her -attendants to chastise the drunkard, and, a battle -ensuing, the unhappy man lost his life. When the -news was brought to Pietro he was considerably -alarmed; but on proceeding to the house of the principal<span class="pageno" id="Page_163">163</span> -magistrate, he very fortunately found that the -affair had been properly represented to him, and that -his people were not considered to have exceeded -their duty. His wife, not reflecting that her masculine -habits and fiery temperament were quite sufficient -to account for the circumstance, now began to -torment both herself and her husband because she -had not yet become a mother; and supposing that in -such cases wine was a sovereign remedy, she endeavoured -to prevail upon Pietro, who was a water-drinker, -to have recourse to a more generous beverage, -offering to join with him, if he would comply, in -the worship of Bacchus. Our traveller, who had -already, as he candidly informs us, a small family in -Italy, could not be brought to believe that the fault -lay in his sober potations, and firmly resisted the -temptations of his wife. With friendly arguments -upon this and other topics they beguiled the length -of the way, and at length arrived in Mazenderan, -though Maani’s passion for horsemanship more than -once put her neck in jeopardy on the road. The -scene which now presented itself was extremely different -from that through which they had hitherto -generally passed. Instead of the treeless plains or -unfertile deserts which they had traversed in the -northern parts of Irak, they saw before them a country -strongly resembling Europe; mountains, deep -well-wooded valleys, or rich green plains rapidly -alternating with each other, and the whole, watered -by abundant streams and fountains, refreshed and -delighted the eye; and he was as yet unconscious -of the insalubrity of the atmosphere.</p> - -<p class="c017">Pietro, who, like Petronius, was an “elegans formarum -spectator,” greatly admired the beauty and -graceful figures of the women of this province,—a -fact which makes strongly against the idea of its -being unhealthy; for it may generally be inferred, -that wherever the women are handsome the air is -good. Here and there they observed, as they moved<span class="pageno" id="Page_164">164</span> -along, the ruins of castles and fortresses on the acclivities -and projections of the mountains, which -had formerly served as retreats to numerous chiefs -who had there aimed at independence. A grotto, -which they discovered in a nearly inaccessible position -in the face of a mountain, was pointed out to -them as the residence of a virgin of gigantic stature, -who, without associates or followers, like the virago -who obstructed the passage of Theseus from Trœzene -to Athens, formerly ravaged and depopulated -that part of the country. This and similar legends -of giants, which resemble those which prevail among -all rude nations, were related to our traveller, who -rejected them with disdain as utterly fabulous and -contemptible, though not much more so, perhaps, -than some which, as a true son of the Roman church, -he no doubt held in reverence.</p> - -<p class="c017">At length, after considerable fatigue, they arrived -at Ferhabad, a small port built by the Shah Abbas on -the Caspian Sea. Here the governor of the city, -when informed of his arrival, assigned him a house -in the eastern quarter of the city, the rooms of which, -says Pietro, were so low, that although by no means -a tall man, he could touch the ceiling with his hand. -If the house, however, reminded him of the huts -erected by Romulus on the Capitoline, the garden, -on the other hand, was delightful, being a large space -of ground thickly planted with white mulberry-trees, -and lying close upon the bank of the river. Here -he passed the greater portion of his time with Actius -Sincerus, or Marcus Aurelius, or Ferrari’s Geographical -Epitome in his hand, now offering sacrifices -to the Muses, and now running over with his eye the -various countries and provinces which he was proud -to have travelled over. One of his favourite occupations -was the putting of his own adventures into -verse, under a feigned name. This he did in that -<i>terza rima</i> which Dante’s example had made respectable, -but not popular, in Italy; and as he was not of<span class="pageno" id="Page_165">165</span> -the humour to hide his talent under a bushel, his -brain was no sooner delivered of this conceit than -he despatched it to Rome for the amusement of his -friends.</p> - -<p class="c017">Being now placed upon the margin of the Caspian, -he very naturally desired to examine the appearance -of its shores and waters; but embarking for this purpose -in a fishing-boat with Maani, who, having passed -her life in Mesopotamia, had never before seen the -sea, her sickness and the fears produced in her mind -by the tossing and rolling of the bark among the -waves quickly put an end to the voyage. He ascertained, -however, from the pilots of the coast, that -the waters of this sea were not deep; immense banks -of sand and mud, borne down into this vast basin by -the numerous rivers which discharge themselves -into it, being met with on all sides; though it is -probable, that had they ventured far from shore they -would have found the case different. Fish of many -kinds were plentiful; but owing, perhaps, to the fat -and slimy nature of the bottom, they were all large, -gross, and insipid.</p> - -<p class="c017">The shah was just then at Asshraff, a new city -which he had caused to be erected, and was then enlarging, -about six perasangs, or leagues, to the east -of Ferhabad. Pietro, anxious to be introduced to -the monarch, soon after his arrival wrote letters to -the principal minister, which, together with others -from the vicar-general of the Carmelite monks at -Ispahan, he despatched by two of his domestics; -and the ministers, according to his desire, informed -the shah of his presence at Ferhabad. Abbas, who -apparently had no desire that he should witness the -state of things at Asshraff, not as yet comprehending -either his character or his motives, observed, that the -roads being extremely bad, the traveller had better -remain at Ferhabad, whither he himself was about -to proceed on horseback in a day or two. Pietro, -whose vanity prevented his perceiving the shah’s<span class="pageno" id="Page_166">166</span> -motives, supposed in good earnest that Abbas was -chary of his guest’s ease; and, to crown the absurdity, -swallowed another monstrous fiction invented -by the courtiers, who, as Hajjî Baba would -say, were all the while laughing at his beard,—namely, -that the monarch was so overjoyed at his -arrival, that, had he not been annoyed by the number -of soldiers who followed him against his will, he -would next morning have ridden to Ferhabad to bid -him welcome!</p> - -<p class="c017">However, when he actually arrived in that city, he -did not, as our worthy pilgrim expected, immediately -admit him to an audience. In the mean while an -agent from the Cossacks inhabiting the north-eastern -shores of the Black Sea arrived, and Della -Valle, who neglected no occasion of forwarding his -own views, in the shaping of which he exhibited remarkable -skill, at once connected himself with this -stranger, whom he engaged to aid and assist by -every means in his power, receiving from the barbarian -the same assurances in return. The Cossack -had come to tender the shah his nation’s services -against the Turks; notwithstanding which, the -business of his presentation had been negligently or -purposely delayed, probably that he might understand, -when his proposal should be afterward received, -that, although the aid he promised was acceptable, -it was by no means necessary, nor so considered.</p> - -<p class="c017">At length the long-anticipated audience arrived, -and Della Valle, when presented, was well received -by the shah; who, not being accustomed, however, -to the crusading spirit or the romance of chivalry, -could not very readily believe that the real motives -which urged him to join the Persian armies were -precisely those which he professed. Nevertheless, -his offers of service were accepted, and the provisions -which he had already received rendered permanent. -He was, moreover, sumptuously entertained<span class="pageno" id="Page_167">167</span> -at the royal table, and had frequently the -honour of being consulted upon affairs of importance -by the shah.</p> - -<p class="c017">Abbas soon afterward removing with his court -into Ghilan, without inviting Della Valle to accompany -him, the latter departed for Casbin, there to -await the marching of the army against the Turks, -in which enterprise he was still mad enough to desire -to engage. On reaching this city he found that -Abbas had been more expeditious than he, and was -already there, actively preparing for the war. All -the military officers of the kingdom now received -orders to repair with all possible despatch to Sultanieh, -a city three days’ journey west of Casbin; -and Pietro, who had voluntarily become a member -of this martial class, hurried on among the foremost, -in the hope of acquiring glory of a new kind.</p> - -<p class="c017">The shah and his army had not been many days -encamped in the plains of Sultanieh, when a courier -from the general, who had already proceeded towards -the frontiers, arrived with the news that the -Turkish army was advancing, although slowly. -This news allowed the troops, who had been fatigued -with forced marches, a short repose; after -which they pushed on vigorously towards Ardebil -and Tabriz, Pietro and his heroic wife keeping pace -with the foremost. In this critical juncture, Abbas, -though in some respects a man of strong mind, did -not consider it prudent to trust altogether to corporeal -armies; but, having in his dominions certain -individuals who pretended to have some influence -over the infernal powers, sought to interest hell also -in his favour; and for this purpose carried a renowned -sorceress from Zunjan along with him to -the wars, in the same spirit as Charles the First, -and the Parliament shortly afterward, employed -Lily to prophesy for them. Their route now lay -through the ancient Media, over narrow plains or -hills covered with verdure but bare of trees, sometimes<span class="pageno" id="Page_168">168</span> -traversing tremendous chasms, spanned by -bridges of fearful height, at others winding along -the acclivities of mountains, or upon the edge of -precipices.</p> - -<p class="c017">Notwithstanding his seeming ardour to engage -with the Turks, Pietro, for some cause or another, -did not join the fighting part of the army, but remained -with the shah’s suite at Ardebil. This circumstance -seems to have lowered him considerably -in the estimation of the court. A battle, however, -was fought, in which the Persians were victorious; -but the Turkish sultan dying at this juncture, his -successor commanded his general to negotiate for -peace, which, after the usual intrigues and delays, -was at length concluded. Abbas now returned to -Casbin, where the victory and the peace was celebrated -with great rejoicings; and here Della Valle, -who seems to have begun to perceive that he was -not likely to make any great figure in war, took his -leave of the court in extremely bad health and low -spirits, and returned to Ispahan.</p> - -<p class="c017">Here repose, and the conversation of the friends -he had made in this city, once more put him in good-humour -with himself and with Persia; and being of -an exceedingly hasty and inconsiderate disposition, -he no sooner began to experience a little tranquillity, -than he exerted the influence he had acquired -over the parents of his wife to induce them, right or -wrong, to leave Bagdad, where they lived contentedly -and in comfort, and to settle at Ispahan, where -they were in a great measure strangers, notwithstanding -that one of their younger daughters was -married to an Armenian of that city. The principal -members of the family, no less imprudent than their -adviser, accordingly quitted Mesopotamia with their -treasures and effects, and established themselves in -the capital of Persia.</p> - -<p class="c017">This measure was productive of nothing but disappointment -and vexation. One of Maani’s sisters,<span class="pageno" id="Page_169">169</span> -who had remained with her mother at Bagdad, while -the father and brothers were at Ispahan, died suddenly; -and the mother, inconsolable for her loss, -entreated her husband to return to her with her other -children. Then followed the pangs of parting, rendered -doubly bitter by the reflection that it was for -ever. Pietro became ill and melancholy, having -now turned his thoughts, like the prodigal in the -parable, towards his country and his father’s house, -and determined shortly to commence his journey -homeward. Obtaining without difficulty his dismission -from the shah, and winding up his affairs, which -were neither intricate nor embarrassed, at Ispahan, -he set out on a visit to Shiraz, intending, when he -should have examined Persepolis and its environs, -to bid an eternal adieu to Persia.</p> - -<p class="c017">With this view, having remained some time at -Shiraz, admiring but not enjoying the pure stream -of the Rocnabad, the bowers of Mesellay, and the -bright atmosphere which shed glory on all around, he -proceeded to Mineb, a small town on the river Ibrahim, -a little to the south of Gombroon and Ormus, on the -shore of the Persian Gulf. Maani, whose desire to -become a mother had been an unceasing source of -unhappiness to her ever since her marriage, being -now pregnant, nothing could have been more ill-judged -in her husband than to approach those pestilential -coasts; especially at such a season of the -year. He quickly discovered his error, but it was -too late. The fever which rages with unremitting -violence throughout all that part of the country -during six months in the year had now seized not -only upon Maani, but on himself likewise, and upon -every other member of his family. Instant flight -might, perhaps, have rescued them from danger, as -it afterward did Chardin, but a fatal lethargy seems -to have seized upon the mind of Pietro. He trembled -at the destiny which menaced him, he saw -death, as it were, entering his house, and approach<span class="pageno" id="Page_170">170</span> -gradually the individual whom he cherished beyond -all others; time was allowed him by Providence for -escape, yet he stood still, as if spellbound, and suffered -the victim to be seized without a struggle. -His wife, whose condition I have alluded to above, -affected at once by the fever, and apprehensive of -its consequences, was terrified into premature labour, -and a son dead-born considerably before its -time put the finishing stroke, as it were, to the affliction -of her mind. Her fever increased in violence—medical -aid was vain—death triumphed—and -Maani sunk into the grave at the age of twenty-three.</p> - -<p class="c017">A total change now came over the mind of Della -Valle, which not only affected the actions of his life, -but communicated itself to his writings, depriving -them of that dashing quixotism which up to this -point constitutes their greatest charm. A cloud, -black as Erebus, descended upon his soul, and nine -months elapsed before he could again command -sufficient spirits or energy to announce the melancholy -event to his friend Schipano. He, however, -resolved that the body of his beloved wife should -not be consigned to the earth in Persia, where he -should never more come to visit or shed a tear over -her grave. He therefore contrived to have it embalmed, -and then, enclosing it in a coffin adapted to -the purpose, placed it in a travelling trunk, in order -that, wherever his good or bad fortune should conduct -him, the dear remains of his Maani might accompany -him to the grave. Certain circumstances -attending this transaction strongly serve to illustrate -the character of Della Valle, and while they tell in -favour of his affection, and paint the melancholy -condition to which his bereavement had reduced -him, likewise throw some light upon the manners -and state of the country. Dead bodies being regarded -as unclean by the Mohammedans, as they -were in old Greece and Rome, and most other<span class="pageno" id="Page_171">171</span> -nations of antiquity, no persons could be found to -undertake the task of embalming but a few old -women, whom the <i>auri sacra fames</i> reconciled to the -pollution. These, wrapping thick bandages over -their mouths and nostrils, to prevent the powerful -odour of the gum from penetrating into their lungs -and brain, after having disembowelled the corpse, -filled its cavities with camphor, and with the same -ingredient, which was of the most pungent and -desiccating nature, rubbed all its limbs and surface -until the perfume had penetrated to the very bones. -Pietro, at all times superstitious, was now rendered -doubly so by sorrow. Having somewhere heard or -read that the bodies of men will be reanimated at the -general resurrection, wherever their heads happen -to be deposited, while, according to another theory, -it was the resting-place of the heart which was to -determine the point, and being desirous, according -to either view of the matter, that Maani and himself -should rise on that awful day together, he gave -orders that the heart of his beloved should be carefully -embalmed with the rest of the body. It never -once occurred to him that the <i>pollinctores</i> (or undertakers) -might neglect his commands, and therefore -he omitted to overlook this part of the operation; -indeed his feelings would not allow him to be present, -and while it was going on he sat retired, hushing -the tempest of his soul in the best manner he -could. While he was in this state of agony, he -observed the embalmers approaching him with -something in their hands, and on casting his eyes -upon it he beheld the heart of Maani in a saucer! -An unspeakable horror shot through his whole -frame as he gazed upon the heart which, but a few -days before, had bounded with delight and joy to -meet his own; and he turned away his head with -a shudder.</p> - -<p class="c017">When the operation was completed, the mummy -was laid out upon a board, and placed under a tent<span class="pageno" id="Page_172">172</span> -in the garden, in order to be still further desiccated -by the action of the air. Here it remained seven -days and nights, and the walls being low, it was -necessary to keep a strict and perpetual watch over -it, lest the hyenas should enter and devour it. -Worn down as he was by fever, by watching, and -by sorrow, Pietro would intrust this sacred duty to -no vulgar guardian during the night, but, with his -loaded musket in his hand, paced to and fro before -the tent through the darkness, while the howls of -the hyenas, bursting forth suddenly quite near him, -as it were, frequently startled his ear and increased -his vigilance. By day he took a few hours’ repose, -while his domestics kept watch.</p> - -<p class="c017">When this melancholy task had been duly performed, -he departed, in sickness and dejection, for -the city of Lâr, where the air being somewhat -cooler and more pure, he entertained some hopes -of a recovery. Not many days after his arrival, a -Syrian whom he had known at Ispahan brought -him news from Bagdad which were any thing but -calculated to cheer or console his mind. He learned -that another sister of Maani had died on the road in -returning from Persia; that the father, stricken to -the soul by this new calamity, had likewise died a -few days after reaching home; and that the widow, -thus bereaved of the better part of her family, and -feeling the decrepitude of old age coming apace, -was inconsolable. Our traveller was thunderstruck. -Death seemed to have put his mark on all those -whom he loved. Persia now became hateful to -him. Its very atmosphere appeared to teem with -misfortunes as with clouds. Nothing, therefore, -seemed left him but to quit it with all possible -celerity.</p> - -<p class="c017">Pietro’s desire to return to Italy was now abated, -and travelling more desirable than home; motion, -the presence of strange objects, the surmounting of -difficulties and dangers, being better adapted than<span class="pageno" id="Page_173">173</span> -ease and leisure for the dissipating of sharp grief. -For this reason he returned to the shore of the -Persian Gulf, and embarked at Gombroon on board -of an English ship for India, taking along with him -the body of his wife, and a little orphan Georgian -girl whom he and Maani had adopted at Ispahan. -As even a father cannot remove his daughter, or a -husband his wife, from the shah’s dominions without -an especial permission, which might not be granted -without considerable delay, Pietro determined to -elude the laws, and disguising the Georgian in the -dress of a boy, contrived to get her on board among -the ship’s crew in the dusk of the evening, on the -19th of January, 1623.</p> - -<p class="c017">Traversing the Indian Ocean with favourable winds, -he arrived on the 10th of February at Surat, where -he was hospitably entertained by the English and -Dutch residents. He found Guzerat a pleasant -country, consisting, as far as his experience extended, -of rich, green plains, well watered, and -thickly interspersed with trees. From Surat he -proceeded to Cambay, a large city situated upon -the extremity of a fine plain at the bottom of the -gulf of the same name. Here he adopted the dress, -and as far as possible the manners of the Hindoos, and -then, striking off a little from the coast, visited -Ahmedabad, travelling thither with a small cafila or -caravan, the roads being considered dangerous for -solitary individuals. At a small village on the road -he observed an immense number of beautiful yellow -squirrels, with fine large tails, leaping from tree to -tree; and a little farther on met with a great number -of beggars armed with bows and arrows, who -demanded charity with sound of trumpet. His observations -in this country, though sufficiently curious -occasionally, were the fruit of a too hasty survey, -which could not enable him to pierce deeply -below the exterior crust of manners. Indeed, he -seems rather to have amused himself with strange<span class="pageno" id="Page_174">174</span> -sights, than sought to philosophize upon the circumstances -of humanity. In a temple of Mahades in -this city, where numerous Yoghees, the Gymnosophists -of antiquity, were standing like so many -statues behind the sacred lamps, he observed an -image of the god entirely of crystal. On the banks -of the Sabermati, which ran close beneath the walls -of the city, numerous Yoghees, as naked as at the -moment of their birth, were seated, with matted -hair, and wild looks, and powdered all over with -the ashes of the dead bodies which they had aided -in burning.</p> - -<p class="c017">Returning to Cambay, he embarked in a Portuguese -ship for Goa, a city chiefly remarkable for -the number of monks that flocked thither, and for -the atrocities which they there perpetrated in the -name of the Church of Rome. Della Valle soon -found that there was more security and pleasure in -living among pagans “suckled in a creed outworn,” -or even among heretics, than in this Portuguese -city, where all strangers were regarded with horror, -and met with nothing but baseness and treachery. -Leaving this den of monks and traitors, he proceeded -southward along the coast, and in a few -days arrived at Onore, where he went to pay a visit -to a native of distinction, whom they found upon -the shore, seated beneath the shade of some fine -trees, flanked and overshadowed, as it were, by a -range of small hills. Being in the company of a -Portuguese ambassador from Goa to a rajah of the -Sadasiva race, who then held his court at Ikery, he -regarded the opportunity of observing something -of the interior of the peninsula as too favourable to -be rejected, and obtained permission to form a part -of the ambassador’s suite. They set out from -Onore in boats, but the current of the river they -were ascending was so rapid and powerful, that with -the aid of both sails and oars they were unable to -push on that day beyond Garsopa, formerly a large<span class="pageno" id="Page_175">175</span> -and flourishing city, but now inconsiderable and -neglected. Here the scenery, a point which seldom -commanded much of Della Valle’s attention, however -picturesque or beautiful it might be, was of so -exquisite a character, so rich, so glowing, so variable, -so full of contrasts, that indifferent as he was -on that head, his imagination was kindled, and he -confessed, that turn which way soever he might, the -face of nature was marvellously delightful. A succession -of hills of all forms, and of every shade of -verdure, between which valleys, now deep and umbrageous, -now presenting broad, green, sunny slopes -to the eye, branched about in every direction; lofty -forests of incomparable beauty, among which the -most magnificent fruit-trees, such as the Indian -walnut, the fawfel, and the amba, were interspersed, -small winding streams, now glancing and quivering -and rippling in the sun, and now plunging into the -deep shades of the woods; while vast flights of gay -tropical birds were perched upon the branches, or -skimming over the waters; all these combined certainly -formed a glorious picture, and justified the -admiration of Pietro when he exclaimed that nothing -to equal it had ever met his eye. On entering the -Ghauts he perceived in them some resemblance to -the Apennines, though they were more beautiful; -and to enjoy so splendid a prospect he travelled -part of the way on foot. The Western Ghauts, -which divide the vast plateau of Mysore from -Malabar, Canasen, and the other maritime provinces -of the Deccan, are in most parts covered with forests -of prodigious grandeur, and in one of these -Pietro and his party were overtaken by the night. -Though “overhead the moon hung imminent, and -shed her silver light,” not a ray could descend to -them through the impenetrable canopy of the wood, -so that they were compelled to kindle torches, notwithstanding -which they failed to find their way, and<span class="pageno" id="Page_176">176</span> -contented themselves with kindling a fire and passing -the night under a tree.</p> - -<p class="c017">Ikery, the bourn beyond which they were not to -proceed towards the interior, was then an extensive -but thinly-peopled city, though according to the -Hindoos it once contained a hundred thousand inhabitants. -Around it extended three lines of fortifications, -of which the exterior was a row of bamboos, -thickly planted, and of enormous height, -whose lifted heads, with the beautiful flowering -parasites which crept round their stems to the summit, -yielded a grateful shade. Here he beheld a -suttee, visited various temples, and saw the celebrated -dancing girls of Hindostan perform their -graceful but voluptuous postures. He examined -likewise the ceremonial of the rajah’s court, and -instituted numerous inquiries into the religion and -manners of the country, upon all which points he -obtained information curious enough for that age, -but now, from the more extensive and exact researches -of later travellers, of little value. Returning -to the seacoast, he proceeded southward as far -as Calicut, the extreme point of his travels. Here -he faced about, as it were, turned his eyes towards -home, and began to experience a desire to be at -rest. Still, at Cananou, at Salsette, and the other -parts of India at which he touched on his return, -he continued assiduously to observe and describe, -though rather from habit than any delight which it -afforded him.</p> - -<p class="c017">On the 15th of November, 1624, he embarked at -Goa in a ship bound for Muskat, from whence he -proceeded up the Persian Gulf to Bassorah. Here -he hired mules and camels, and provided all things -necessary for crossing the desert; and on the 21st -of May, 1625, departed, being accompanied by an -Italian friar, Marian, the Georgian girl, and the -corpse of Maani. During this journey he observed -the sand in many places strewed with seashells,<span class="pageno" id="Page_177">177</span> -bright and glittering as mother-of-pearl, and in -others with bitumen. Occasionally their road lay -over extensive marshes, covered thickly with reeds -or brushwood, or white with salt; but at this -season of the year every thing was so dry that a -spark falling from the pipe of a muleteer upon the -parched grass nearly produced a conflagration in -the desert. When they had advanced many days’ -journey into the waste, and beheld on all sides -nothing but sand and sky, a troop of Arab robbers, -who came scouring along the desert upon their -fleet barbs, attacked and rifled their little caravan; -and Della Valle saw himself about to be deprived -of his wife’s body, after having preserved it so -long, and conveyed it safely over so many seas and -mountains. In this fear he addressed himself to the -banditti, describing the contents of the chest, and -the motives which urged him so vehemently to -desire its preservation. The Arabs were touched -with compassion. The sight of the coffin, enforcing -the effect of his eloquence, interested their hearts; -so that not only did they respect the dead, and -praise the affectionate and pious motives of the -traveller, but also narrowed their demands, for they -pretended to exact dues, not to rob, and allowed -the caravan to proceed with the greater part of its -wealth.</p> - -<p class="c017">On arriving at the port of Alexandretta another -difficulty arose. The Turks would never have allowed -a corpse to pass through the custom-house, -nor would the sailors of the ship in which he desired -to embark for Cyprus on any account have suffered -it to come on board. To overreach both -parties, Pietro had the body enveloped in bales of -spun cotton, upon which he paid the regular duty, -and thus one further step was gained. After visiting -Cyprus, Malta, and Sicily, where he remained -some short time, he set sail for Naples. Here he -found his old friend Schipano still living, and after<span class="pageno" id="Page_178">178</span> -describing to him the various scenes and dangers -through which he had passed, moved forward -towards Rome, where he arrived on the 28th of -March, 1626, after an absence of more than twelve -years.</p> - -<p class="c017">His return was no sooner made known in the -city than numerous friends and relations and the -greater number of the nobility crowded to his house, -to bid him welcome and congratulate him upon the -successful termination of his travels. His presentation -to the pope took place a few days afterward, -when Urban VIII. was so charmed with his conversation -and manners, that, without application or -intrigue on the part of the traveller, he was appointed -his holiness’s honorary chamberlain,—a compliment -regarded at Rome as highly flattering. In -order to induce the pope to send out missionaries -to Georgia, Pietro now presented him with a short -account of that country, which he had formerly -written; and the affair being seriously taken into -consideration, it was determined by the society <i>De -Propaganda Fide</i> that the proposed measure should -be carried into effect, and that Pietro should be -regularly consulted respecting the business of the -Levant missions in general.</p> - -<p class="c017">Early in the spring of 1627, he caused the funeral -obsequies of his wife to be celebrated with extraordinary -magnificence in the church of Aracœli at -Rome. The funeral oration he himself pronounced; -and when, after describing the various circumstances -of her life, and the happiness of their union, -he came to expatiate upon her beauty, his emotions -became so violent that tears and sobs choked his -utterance, and he failed to proceed. His auditors, -according to some accounts, were likewise affected -even unto tears; while others relate that they burst -into a fit of laughter. If they did, the fault was in -their own hearts; for, however extravagant the -manner of Della Valle may have been, death is a<span class="pageno" id="Page_179">179</span> -solemn thing, and can never fail properly to affect -all well-constituted minds.</p> - -<p class="c017">However, though his love for Maani’s memory -seems never to have abated, the vanity of keeping -up the illustrious name of Della Valle, and the consequent -wish of leaving a legitimate offspring behind -him, reconciled a second marriage to his mind, -and Marian Tinatin, the Georgian girl whom he had -brought with him from the East, appears to have been -the person selected for his second wife. M. Eyriès -asserts, but I know not upon what authority, that it -was a relation of Maani whom he married; but this -seems to be extremely improbable, since, so far as -can be discovered from his travels, no relation of -hers ever accompanied him, excepting the brother -and sister who spent some time with him in Persia.</p> - -<p class="c017">Though he had exhausted a large portion of his -patrimony in his numerous and long-continued journeys, -sufficient seems to have remained to enable -him to spend the remainder of his life in splendour -and affluence. He had established himself in the -mansion of his ancestors at Rome, and the locomotive -propensity having entirely deserted him, would -probably never have quitted the city, but that one -day, while the pope was pronouncing his solemn -benediction in St. Peter’s, he had the misfortune to -fall into a violent passion, during which he killed his -coachman in the area before the church. This -obliged him once more to fly to Naples; but murder -not being regarded as a very heinous offence at -Rome, and the pope, moreover, entertaining a warm -friendship for Pietro, he was soon recalled. After -this nothing remarkable occurred to him until his -death, which took place on the 20th of April, 1652. -Soon after his death, his widow retired to Urbino; -and his children, exhibiting a fierce and turbulent -character, were banished the city.</p> - -<p class="c017">As a traveller, Della Valle possessed very distinguished -qualities. He was enthusiastic, romantic,<span class="pageno" id="Page_180">180</span> -enterprising. He had read, if not studied, the histories -of the various countries through which he -afterward travelled; and there were few dangers -which he was not ready cheerfully to encounter for -the gratification of his curiosity. Gibbon complains -of his insupportable vanity and prolixity. With his -vanity I should never quarrel, as it only tends to -render him the more agreeable: but his prolixity is -sometimes exceedingly tedious, particularly in those -rhetorical exordiums to his long letters, containing -the praises of his friend Schipano, and lamentations -over the delays of the Asiatic <i>post-office</i>. Nevertheless, -it is impossible to peruse his works without -great instruction and delight; for his active, and -vigorous, and observant mind continually gives birth -to sagacious and profound remarks; and his adventures, -though undoubtedly true, are full of interest -and the spirit of romance.</p> - -<div class="pbb"> - <hr class="pb c004" /> -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="c012" id="JEAN_BAPTISTE_TAVERNIER">JEAN BAPTISTE TAVERNIER.</h2> -</div> - -<div class="nf-center-c0"> -<div class="nf-center c004"> - <div>Born 1602.—Died 1685 or 1686.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class="c016"><span class="sc">The</span> father of Tavernier was a map and chart -maker of Antwerp in Brabant, who removed with -his family into France while our traveller was still -in his childhood. Though born of Protestant parents, -some of his biographers have imagined that -Tavernier must have been a Catholic, at least in the -early part of his life, before his intercourse with the -English and Dutch had sapped the foundations of -his faith, and left him without any! But the truth -appears to be, that although educated in the dominions -of a Catholic king, surrounded by priests, and -within the hearing of the mass-bells, he, as well as -the rest of the family, one graceless nephew excepted,<span class="pageno" id="Page_181">181</span> -always remained faithful to the Protestant -cause. However this may be, Tavernier, who was -constantly surrounded by the maps of foreign lands, -and by persons who conversed of little else, very -early conceived the design of “seeing the world,” -and being furnished with the necessary funds by his -parents or friends, commenced his long wanderings -by a visit to England, from whence he passed over -into Flanders, in order to behold his native city.</p> - -<p class="c017">The rumour of the wars then about to burst -forth in Germany kindled the martial spirit in the -mind of our youthful traveller, who, moving through -Frankfort and Augsburg towards Nuremburg, fell in -with <i>Hans Brenner</i>, a colonel of cavalry, son to the -governor of Vienna, and was easily prevailed upon -to join his corps, then marching into Bohemia. His -adventures in these wars he himself considered unworthy -of being recorded. It is simply insinuated -that he was present at the battle of Prague, some -time after which he became a page to the governor -of Raab, then viceroy of Hungary. In this situation -he had remained four years and a half, when -the young Prince of Mantua arrived at Raab on his -way to Vienna, and with the consent of the viceroy -took Tavernier along with him in quality of interpreter.</p> - -<p class="c017">This circumstance inspired him with the desire of -visiting Italy; and obtaining his dismissal from the -viceroy, who, at parting, presented him with a -sword, a pair of pistols, a horse, and, what was of -infinitely greater consequence, a good purse filled -with ducats, he entered as interpreter into the service -of M. de Sabran, the French envoy to the emperor, -and proceeded to Venice. From this city, -which he compares with Amsterdam, he removed in -the train of M. de Sabran to Mantua, where he remained -during the siege of that place by the imperial -troops. Here, engaging with a small number of -young men in a reconnoitring party, he narrowly<span class="pageno" id="Page_182">182</span> -escaped death, only four out of eighteen returning, -and having been twice struck in the breast by a ball, -which was repelled by the goodness of his cuirass. -Of this excellent piece of armour the Count de -Guiche, afterward Marshal de Grammont, disburdened -him, considering the superior value to France -of his own patrician soul, and the comparative unimportance -of Tavernier’s life. These little accidents, -which seem to have aided in ripening his -brain, curing him of his martial ardour, he quitted -Mantua, and having visited Loretta, Rome, Naples, and -other celebrated cities of Italy, returned to France.</p> - -<p class="c017">These little excursions, which might have satisfied -a less ardent adventurer, only tended to strengthen -his passion for locomotion. He therefore immediately -quitted Paris for Switzerland, whence, having -traversed the principal cantons, he again passed -into Germany. Here he remained but a very short -time before he undertook a journey into Poland, -apparently for the purpose of beholding the splendid -court of King Sigismund. His curiosity on this -point being gratified, he retraced his footsteps, with -the design of visiting the emperor’s court; but, -arriving near Glogau, he was diverted from his intention -by meeting accidently with the Colonel -Butler who afterward killed the celebrated Wallestein. -With this gallant Scot and his wife he staid -for some time; but understanding that the coronation -of Ferdinand III., as king of the Romans, was -about to take place at Ratisbon, Tavernier, for whom -the sight of pomp and splendour appears to have possessed -irresistible charms, quitted his new friends -and patrons, and repaired to the scene of action.</p> - -<p class="c017">Upon the magnificence of this coronation it is -unnecessary to dwell, but a tragical circumstance -which took place at Ratisbon, during the preparations -for it, is too illustrative of the manners and -spirit of the times to be passed over in silence. -Among the numerous jewellers who repaired upon<span class="pageno" id="Page_183">183</span> -this occasion to Ratisbon, there was a young man -from Frankfort, the only son of the richest merchant -in Europe. The father, who feared to hazard -his jewels with his son upon the road, caused them -to be forwarded by a sure conveyance to his correspondent -at that city, with orders that as soon as -the young man should arrive they should be delivered -up to him. Upon the arrival of the youth, -the correspondent, who was a Jew, informed him -that he had received a coffer of jewels from his -father, which he would place in his hands as soon as -he should think proper. In the mean while he conducted -him to a tavern, where they drank and conversed -until one o’clock in the morning. They then -left the house, and the Jew conducted the young -man, who was apparently a stranger to the city, -through various by-streets, where there were few -shops, and few passers, and when they were in -a spot convenient for the purpose he stabbed his -guest in the bowels, and left him extended in his -blood upon the pavement. He then returned home, -and wrote to his friend at Frankfort that his son had -arrived in safety, and received the jewels. The -murderer had no sooner quitted his victim, however, -than a soldier, who happened to be passing -that way, stumbled over the body, and feeling his -hand wet with blood, was startled, and alarming the -watch, the body was taken up, and carried to the -very tavern where the young man and the Jew had -spent the evening. This led to the apprehension of -the murderer, who, strange to say, at once confessed -his guilt. He was therefore condemned, according -to the laws of the empire, to be hung upon -a gallows with his head downwards, between two -large dogs, which, in the rage and agonies of hunger, -might tear him to pieces and devour him. This -tremendous sentence was changed, however, at the -intercession and by the costly presents of the other -Jews of Ratisbon, to another of shorter duration<span class="pageno" id="Page_184">184</span> -but scarcely less terrible, which was, to have his -flesh torn from his bones by red-hot pincers, while -boiling lead was poured into the wound, and to be -afterward broken alive upon the wheel.</p> - -<p class="c017">When the punishment of the Jew and the coronation -were over, Tavernier began to turn his thoughts -towards Turkey; and two French gentlemen proceeding -at this period to Constantinople on public -business, he obtained permission to accompany -them, and set out through Hungary, Servia, Bulgaria, -and Romelia, to the shores of the Dardanelles. -At Constantinople he remained eleven months, during -which time he undertook several little excursions, -among which was one to the plains of Troy; but -finding neither the pomp of courts nor the bustle of -trade upon this scene of ancient glory, he was -grievously disappointed, and regarded the time and -money expended on the journey as so much loss. -So little poetical enthusiasm had he in his soul!</p> - -<p class="c017">At length the caravan for Persia, for the departure -of which he had waited so long, set out, proceeding -along the southern shore of the Black Sea, a route -little frequented by Europeans. On leaving Scutari -they travelled through fine plains covered with flowers, -observing on both sides of the road a number of -noble tombs of a pyramidal shape. On the evening -of the second day the caravan halted at Gebre, the -ancient Libyssa, a place rendered celebrated by the -tomb of Hannibal. From this town they proceeded -to Ismid, the ancient Nicomedia, where Sultan Murad -erected a palace commanding a beautiful prospect, -on account of the abundance of game, fruits, and -wine found in the neighbourhood. Continuing their -route through a country abounding with wood, picturesque -hills, and rich valleys, they passed through -Boli, the ancient Flaviopolis, when they halted two -days in order to feast upon the pigeons of the vicinity -which were as large as fowls. From thence -they continued their route through Tosia, Amasia,<span class="pageno" id="Page_185">185</span> -and Toket, to Arzroum, in Armenia, where they remained -several days. They then proceeded to Karo, -thence to Erivan, and thence, by Ardebil and Kashan, -to Ispahan, where he arrived in the year 1629.</p> - -<p class="c017">Being destitute of a profession, and having, I -know not how, picked up some knowledge of precious -stones, Tavernier became a jeweller in the -East. Where he first commenced this business, and -what quantity of stock, who furnished him with his -capital, or with credit which might enable him to -dispense with it, are points upon which no information -remains. It is certain, however, that in this -first visit to Persia several years were spent, during -which he traversed the richest and most remarkable -provinces of the empire, observing the country, and -studying the manners, but always conversing by -means of an interpreter, not possessing the talents -necessary for the acquiring of foreign language. -The history of his six peregrinations into the East, -as the events which marked them are not of sufficient -importance to require a minute description, I -shall not enter into other than generally, omitting -all reference to his obscure and confused chronology. -However, finding that the trade in precious stones, -in which he had boldly engaged, promised to turn -out a thriving one, he very soon projected a voyage -to India, for the purpose of visiting the diamond-mines, -and acquiring upon the spot all that species -of information which his business required.</p> - -<p class="c017">In fulfilment of this design, he repaired to Gombroon, -on the Persian Gulf, where, finding a ship -bound for Surat, he embarked for India. On arriving -at Surat, which at that period was a city of -considerable extent, surrounded by earthen fortifications, -and defended by a miserable fortress, he took -up his residence with the Dutch, and commenced -business. His Indian speculations proving, as he -had anticipated, extremely profitable, his Persian expeditions -always terminated by a visit to Hindostan,<span class="pageno" id="Page_186">186</span> -during which he trafficked with the Mogul princes, -who, though no less desirous than himself of driving -a hard bargain, appear to have generally paid handsomely -in the end for whatever they purchased. -Upon one occasion Shahest Khan, governor of Surat, -having made a considerable purchase from our merchant-traveller, -determined to make trial of his skill -in the art of trade. “Will you,” said he, “receive -your money in gold or in silver rupees?”—“I -will be guided by your highness’s advice,” replied -the traveller. The khan, who probably expected an -answer of this kind, immediately commanded the -sum to be counted out, reckoning the gold rupee as -equivalent to fourteen rupees and a half in silver, -which, as Tavernier well knew, was half a rupee -more than its real value. However, as he hoped to -make up for this loss upon some future occasion, he -made no objection at the time, but received his -money and retired. Two days afterward he returned -to the khan, pretending that after much negotiation, -and many attempts to dispose of his gold -rupees at the rate at which he had received them, -he had discovered that at the present rate of exchange -gold was equivalent to no more than fourteen -silver rupees, and that thus, upon the ninety-six -thousand rupees which he had received in gold, -he should lose three thousand four hundred and -twenty-eight. Upon this the prince burst out into a -tremendous passion, and supposing it to be the Dutch -broker who had given this information, which he insisted -was false, to our diamond merchant, swore he -would cause him to receive as many lashes as would -make up the pretended deficiency, and thus teach -him to know the real value of money. Tavernier, -who, by this time, understood the proper mode of -proceeding with Asiatic princes, allowed the storm -to blow over before he ventured to reply; but observing -the khan’s countenance growing calm, and -relaxing into a smile, he returned to the point, and<span class="pageno" id="Page_187">187</span> -humbly requested to know whether he should return -the gold rupees, or might hope that his highness -would make up the deficiency. At these words the -khan again looked at him steadfastly with an angry -eye and without uttering a syllable; but at length -inquired whether he had brought along with him a -certain pearl which he had formerly shown. Tavernier -drew it forth from his bosom, and placed it in his -hands. “Now,” said the khan, “let us speak no more -of the past. Tell me in one word the exact price -of this pearl.”—“Seven thousand rupees,” replied -the traveller, who, however, meant to have taken -three thousand rather than break off the bargain. -“If I give thee five thousand,” returned the khan, -“thou wilt be well repaid for thy pretended loss -upon the gold rupees. Come to-morrow, and thou -shalt receive the money. I wish thee to depart contented; -and therefore thou shalt receive a dress of -honour and a horse.” Tavernier was content, and -having entreated his highness to send him a useful -beast, since he had far to travel, made the usual -obeisance and took his leave.</p> - -<p class="c017">Next day the kelât and the horse were sent. -With the former, which was really handsome and -valuable, our traveller was well satisfied; and the -horse, which was decked with green velvet housings -with silver fringe, likewise seemed to answer -his expectations. When, however, he was brought -into the court of the house, and a young Dutchman -sprung upon his back to try his mettle, he began to -rear, and plunge, and kick in so powerful a manner -that he shook down the roof of a small shed which -stood in the yard, and put the life of his rider in -imminent jeopardy. Observing this, Tavernier commanded -the animal to be returned to the prince; and -when he went to the palace in order to express his -thanks and take his leave, he related the whole circumstance, -adding that he feared his highness had -no desire that he should execute the commission<span class="pageno" id="Page_188">188</span> -with which he had intrusted him. Upon this the -khan, who could not restrain his laughter during the -whole narration, commanded a large Persian horse, -which had belonged to his father, and when young -had cost five thousand crowns, to be brought forth -ready saddled and bridled, and desired the traveller -to mount at once. Tavernier obeyed, and found -that, although upwards of twenty-eight years old, -this horse was the finest pacer he had ever beheld. -“Well,” said the khan, “are you satisfied? This -beast will not break your neck.” In addition to -this he presented him with a basket of Cashmere -apples, and a Persian melon, so exquisite that they -were at least worth a hundred rupees. The horse, -old as he was, he afterward sold at Golconda for -fifty pounds sterling.</p> - -<p class="c017">Having concluded his negotiations at Surat, he set -out upon his journey to the diamond-mines; and -passing, among other towns, through Navapoor, -where he found the rice, which he regarded as the -best in the world, slightly scented with musk, and -through Dowlutabad, one of the strongest fortresses -in Hindostan, arrived in about two months at Golconda. -This kingdom, which was then a powerful -and independent state, contained an abundance of -fertile lands, numerous flocks and herds, and many -small lakes, which furnished inexhaustible supplies -of fish. Baugnuggur, the capital (the modern Hyderabad), -vulgarly called Golconda, from the fortress -of that name in the vicinity, in which the king resided, -was then a city of recent construction; but -nevertheless contained a number of fine buildings, -several admirable caravansaries, mosques, and pagodas, -and the streets, though unpaved, were broad -and handsome. Upon the roof of the palace were -gardens, in which grew immense trees, yielding a -large and grateful shade, but menacing to crush the -structure with their weight. Here stood a pagoda, -which, had it been completed, would not only have<span class="pageno" id="Page_189">189</span> -been the largest in all India, but one of the boldest -structures in Asia, or perhaps in the world. The -stones employed in this building were all of very -large dimensions; but there was one of such prodigious -size that it required five years to lift it out of -the quarry, as many more to draw it to the pagoda, -and a carriage with fourteen hundred oxen! That a -temple commenced upon such a scale, and with such -materials, should be left unfinished, was not greatly -to be wondered at; and accordingly it was never -completed.</p> - -<p class="c017">The population of this city with its extensive -suburbs, though not exactly stated, must have been -very considerable, since the number of licensed courtesans -amounted, as he was informed, to twenty -thousand, the majority of whom inhabited small huts, -where by day they might always be seen standing at -the door, while a lamp or lighted candle was placed -by night to light the passenger to his ruin. The -principal of these women presented themselves -every Friday before the king, as was, according to -Bernier, the custom likewise at Delhi, when, if his -majesty permitted, they exhibited their skill in dancing; -but if he were better employed they were commanded -by the principal eunuch to retire. These -ladies, who were under the especial protection of -the monarch, appear to have been peculiarly devoted -to their illustrious patron: for when his majesty -was upon one occasion returning to his capital from -Masulipatam, nine of these faithful servants contrived -to imitate with their bodies the form of an -elephant; four enacting the legs, another four the -body, and one the proboscis; and, receiving their -prince upon their back, bore him in triumph into the -city! Both sexes here possessed a high degree of -personal beauty; and, excepting the peasantry, who -of course were rendered somewhat swarthy by their -exposure to the sun, were distinguished for the fairness -of their complexions.</p> - -<p><span class="pageno" id="Page_190">190</span></p> - -<p class="c017">Though he had undertaken this long journey expressly -for the purpose of visiting the diamond-mines, -many persons, apparently, both here and elsewhere, -endeavoured to dissuade him from carrying his design -into execution, by fearful pictures of the mine -districts, which, it was said, could only be approached -by the most dangerous roads, and were inhabited by -a rude and barbarous population. However, as he -was never deterred by the fear of danger from pursuing -his plans, these representations were ineffectual. -The first mine which he visited was that of -Raolconda, five days’ journey distant from Golconda, -and eight or nine from Beajapoor. The country in -the environs of Raolconda, where, according to the -traditions of the inhabitants, diamonds had been -discovered upwards of two hundred years, was a -sandy waste, strewn with rocks, and broken by -chasms and precipices, like the environs of Fontainbleau. -These rocks were traversed by veins from -half an inch to an inch in breadth, which were hollowed -out with small crooked bars of iron by the -workmen, who put the earth or sand thus scraped -into vessels prepared for the purpose, where, after -the earth had been washed away, the diamonds were -found. Many of the gems obtained at this mine -were flawed by the blows which were necessary for -splitting the hard rocks, and various were the arts -resorted to by the miners for concealing these defects. -Sometimes they cleaved the stones in two, -at others they ground them into as many angles as -possible, or set them in a peculiar manner. Tavernier, -who was a shrewd merchant, soon discovered -all their tricks, however; and, able as they were at -overreaching and driving bargains, succeeded in -making an immense fortune at their expense.</p> - -<p class="c017">The workmen, who, although engaged in dragging -forth these splendid and costly toys from the bowels -of the earth, earned but a miserable pittance for -their pains, sometimes conceived the idea of secreting<span class="pageno" id="Page_191">191</span> -small diamonds; and, though rigidly watched, -occasionally contrived to swallow or conceal them -within their eyelids, having no clothing whatever -except the cummerbund. When a foreign merchant -arrived, one of the banyans who rented the mines -usually called upon him about ten or eleven o’clock -in the morning, bringing along with him a portion of -the diamonds which he might have for sale. These -he generally deposited confidingly in the foreigner’s -hand, allowing him six or eight days to examine -them and determine upon the prices he would consent -to give. The day for bargaining being arrived, -however, it was necessary to come without much -negotiation to the point; for if the foreigner hesitated, -made many low offers, or otherwise endeavoured -to undervalue the merchandise, the Hindoo -very coolly wrapped up his gems in the corner of -his garment, turned upon his heel, and departed; nor -could he ever be prevailed upon to show the same -jewels again, unless mixed with others.</p> - -<p class="c017">The view of the ordinary diamond mart was singularly -picturesque. It was a large open space in -the centre of the town, where you might every -morning see the sons of the principal merchants, -from ten to fifteen years old, sitting under a tree -with their diamond balances and weights in small -bags under their arms; while others carried large -bags of gold pagodas. When any person appeared -with diamonds for sale, he was referred to the oldest -of the lads, who was usually the chief of the company, -and transacted the business of the whole. -This boy, having carefully considered the water of -the gem, handed it to the lad who stood nearest him, -who in like manner passed it to the next, and so on, -until it had made the circuit of the whole, without -a word being spoken by any one. If after all he -should pay too dear for the diamond, the loss fell -upon him alone. In the evening they assorted -the gems, and divided their gains; the principal<span class="pageno" id="Page_192">192</span> -receiving one quarter per cent. more than the -others.</p> - -<p class="c017">The merchants of Raolconda were extremely -obliging and polite towards strangers. Upon the -arrival of Tavernier, the governor, a Mohammedan, -who was likewise commander of the province, received -him with much kindness, and furnished him, -in addition to the servants he had brought with him, -four trusty attendants, who were commanded to -watch day and night over his treasures. “You -may now eat, drink, sleep, and take care of your -health,” said he; “you have nothing to fear; only -take care not to make any attempts to defraud the -king.”</p> - -<p class="c017">One evening, shortly after his arrival, our traveller -was accosted by a banyan of mean appearance, -whose whole apparel consisted of the miserable -handkerchief which was tied about his head, and -his girdle, or cummerbund, who, after the usual -salutation, sat himself down by his side. Tavernier -had long learned to pay but little attention to exteriors -in this class of people, since he had found that -many of them whose appearance denoted extreme -poverty, and might have excited the charitable feelings -of the passer-by, nevertheless carried concealed -about their persons a collection of diamonds which -those who pitied them would have been extremely -proud to possess. He therefore conducted himself -politely towards the banyan, who, after a few civilities -had passed between them, inquired through the interpreter -whether he would like to purchase a few -rubies. Having replied that he should be glad to -examine them, the banyan drew forth from his girdle -about twenty ruby rings, which our traveller said -were too small for his purpose, but that nevertheless -he would purchase one of them. As the merchant -seemed to regard the attendance of the governor’s -servants as a restraint upon his actions, further conversation -was delayed until evening prayer should<span class="pageno" id="Page_193">193</span> -have called them to the mosque; but three only attended -to the muezzin’s summons, the fourth remaining -to enact the spy during their absence. Tavernier, -however, whom a long residence in the East had -rendered politic, now suddenly recollected that he -was in want of bread; and the trusty Mohammedan -being despatched in quest of it, he was left alone -with his interpreter and the merchant. As soon as -the spy was departed the Indian began to untie his -long hair, which, according to custom, he wore -plaited in many a fold upon the crown of his head, -and as it parted and fell down upon his shoulder, a -tiny packet wrapped in a linen rag dropped out. This -proved to be a diamond of singular size and beauty, -which Tavernier, when it was put into his hands, -regarded with the greatest interest and curiosity. -“You need not,” said the banyan, “amuse yourself -with examining the stone at present. To-morrow, -if you will meet me alone at nine o’clock in the -morning, on the outside of the town, you may view -it at your leisure.” He then stated the exact price -of his gem and departed. Tavernier, who now -coveted this stone with the eagerness and passion -of a lover, did not fail to repair to the spot at the -appointed moment, with the necessary sum of gold -pagodas in his bag; and after considerable negotiation -succeeded in making it his own.</p> - -<p class="c017">Three days after this fortunate purchase, while his -heart was elate with success, and flattered with self-congratulations, -he received a letter from Golconda -which cast a shadow over his prospects. It came -from the person with whom he had intrusted his -money, and informed him that on the very day after -he had received his trust he had been attacked with -dysentery, which, he doubted not, would speedily -conduct him to the grave. He therefore entreated -Tavernier to hasten to the spot, in order to take -charge of his own property, which, he assured him, -would now be far from secure; that should he arrive<span class="pageno" id="Page_194">194</span> -in time, he would find it sealed up in bags, and placed -in a certain chamber; but that, as at furthest he had -but two days to live, not a moment ought to be lost. -Not having as yet completed his purchases, for he -had still twenty thousand pagodas unemployed, he -was in some perplexity respecting the course he -ought to pursue; but as the danger was considerable, -he at length resolved to set out at once. It being -imperative upon him, however, first to pay the royal -dues upon what he had bought, he immediately repaired -to the governor to perform this duty, and to -take his leave. By this man’s good offices he was -enabled at once to employ the remainder of his -capital; which having done, he departed in all haste -for Golconda, with apprehensions of pillage in his -mind, and a long journey before him. To ensure -his safety in the dominions of Beajapoor, the governor -of the mines had granted him a guard of six -horsemen, and thus escorted he pushed on rapidly. -In due time he arrived at Golconda, and going -straight towards his golden <i>kėbleh</i>, found the chamber -in which his wealth had been deposited locked, and -sealed with two seals, that of the kadi, and that of -the chief of the merchants, his correspondent having -been dead three days. His apprehension and alarm, -he now found, had all been needless; for upon proving -his right to the money, which it was not difficult -for him to do, his property was restored to him -without delay.</p> - -<p class="c017">This sad affair being concluded, he set out upon -his visit to the mines of Colour, seven days’ journey -east of Golconda, or Hyderabad. These were situated -upon a plain, flanked on one side by a river, -and on the other by lofty mountains, which swept -round in the form of a half-moon. The discovery -of these mines was made by a peasant, who, turning -up the soil for the purpose of sowing millet, perceived -a small pointed sparkling stone at his feet, -which he picked up, and carrying to Golconda, found<span class="pageno" id="Page_195">195</span> -an honest merchant, who disclosed to him the value -of his treasure. The discovery was soon rumoured -about; merchants and speculators crowded to the -spot, and gems of the most extraordinary magnitude -and beauty, the equal of which had never before -been seen, were dug up out of the earth of this -plain, and among others that famous diamond of -Aurungzebe, which when rough weighed nine hundred -carats. When they would judge of the water -of a diamond, the Hindoos of Colour placed a lamp -in a small aperture in a wall by night, and holding -the stone between their fingers in the stream of light -thrown out by the lamp, thought they could thus -discern its beauties or defects more certainly than -by day.</p> - -<p class="c017">Upon his arrival at Colour upwards of sixty thousand -persons, men, women, and children, were at -work upon the plain, the men being employed in -digging up the earth, and their wives and children -in carrying it to the spot where it was sifted for the -jewels. Nevertheless, many of the stones found -here fell in pieces under the wheel; and a remarkably -large one, which was carried to Italy by a Jew, -and valued at thirty thousand piastres, burst into nine -pieces while it was polishing at Venice.</p> - -<p class="c017">The third mine, the most ancient in India, was -situated near Sumbhulpoor, in Gundwana, at that -period included, according to Tavernier, in the kingdom -of Bengal. The diamonds were here found in -the sands of the Mahanuddy, near its confluence -with the Hebe; but our traveller strangely travesties -the name of this river into <i>Gouel</i>, and, indeed, generally -makes such havoc with names that there is -often much difficulty in discovering what places are -meant. However, when the great rains, which -usually took place in December, were over, the river -was allowed the whole month of January to clear, -and shrink to its ordinary dimensions, when large -beds of sand were left uncovered. The inhabitants<span class="pageno" id="Page_196">196</span> -of Sumbhulpoor, and of another small town in the -vicinity, then issued forth, to the number of eight -thousand, and began to examine the appearance of -the sands. If they perceived upon any spot certain -small stones, resembling what are called thunder-stones -in Europe, they immediately concluded that -there were gems concealed below; and having enclosed -a considerable space with poles and fascines, -began to scoop up the sand, and convey it to a place -prepared for its reception upon the shore. Hamilton -and other modern authorities, however, observe, -that the diamonds are found in a matrix of red clay, -which is washed down among heaps of earth of the -same colour from the neighbouring mountains, and -that in the sand of the same rivulets which contain -the gems considerable quantities of gold are likewise -discovered.</p> - -<p class="c017">I have here thrown together the result of several -visits to the diamond-mines, to avoid the necessity -of returning again and again, after the manner of our -traveller himself, to the same spot; and shall now -accompany him through Surat to Agra and Delhi. -Having returned to Surat with his jewels, and advantageously -disposed of a part of them in that city, he -departed with the remainder for the capital. At Baroche, -in Guzerat, he witnessed the astonishing performances -of those jugglers whose achievements -have been the wonder of travellers from the days -of Megasthenes down to the present moment, and -in a barbarous age might well justify the faith of -mankind in the powers of magic. The first feat -they performed was to make the chains with which -their bodies were encircled red-hot, by means of an -immense fire which they had kindled, and the touch -of these they bore without shrinking, or seeming to -feel any thing beyond a slight inconvenience. They -next took a small piece of wood, and having planted -it in the earth, demanded of one of the bystanders -what fruit they should cause it to produce. The<span class="pageno" id="Page_197">197</span> -company replied that they wished to see <i>mangoes</i>. -One of the jugglers then wrapped himself in a sheet, -and crouched down to the earth several times in -succession. Tavernier, whom all this diablerie delighted -exceedingly, ascended to the window of an -upper chamber for the purpose of beholding more -distinctly the whole proceedings of the magician, and -through a rent in the sheet saw him cut himself -under the arms with a razor, and rub the piece of -wood with his blood. Every time he rose from his -crouching posture the bit of wood grew visibly, and -at the third time branches and buds sprang out.—The -tree, which had now attained the height of five -or six feet, was next covered with leaves, and then -with flowers. At this instant an English clergyman -arrived: the performance taking place at the house -of one of our countrymen, and perceiving in what -practices the jugglers were engaged, commanded -them instantly to desist, threatening the whole of the -Europeans present with exclusion from the holy -communion if they persisted in encouraging the diabolical -arts of sorcerers and magicians. The zeal -of this hot-headed son of the church put a stop to the -exhibition, and prevented our traveller from beholding -the crowning miracle. The peacock, which is -found in a state of nature in all parts of Hindostan, -was at that period peculiarly plentiful in the neighbourhood -of Cambay and Baroche, and its flesh when -young was considered equal to that of the turkey.—Being -exceedingly wild and timid, it could only be -approached by night, when many curious arts were -put in practice for taking it.</p> - -<p class="c017">The next considerable city at which he arrived -was Ahmedabad, where, during his stay a very extraordinary -circumstance took place, which was -long the subject of wonder in that part of the country. -Over the river which flows by this city there -was no bridge. The richer and more genteel part -of the population, however, passed the stream in<span class="pageno" id="Page_198">198</span> -large boats which plied continually for passengers; -but the peasantry, who grudged or could ill afford -the expense, swam over upon inflated goat-skins; -and when they happened to have their children with -them they were put into so many large earthen pots, -which the swimmers pushed before them with their -hands. A peasant and his wife crossing the river in -this manner, with their only child in a pot before -them, found about the middle of the stream a small -sandbank, upon which there was an old tree that -had been rolled down by the current. Here, being -somewhat exhausted, they pushed the pot towards the -tree, in the hope of being able to rest a moment; but -before they had touched the bank a serpent sprang -out from among the roots, and in an instant glided -into the pot to the child. Stupified with fear and -horror, the parents allowed the pot to float away with -the current, and having remained half-dead at the -foot of the tree for some time, found, upon the recovery -of their senses, that their child had either -sunk in the stream, or floated Heaven only knew -whither. The little fellow in the pot and his serpent, -however, sailed merrily down the river together, -and had already proceeded about two leagues towards -the sea, when a Hindoo and his wife, who were -bathing upon the edge of the stream, saw the child’s -head peeping out of the pot. The husband, prompted -by humanity, immediately swam out, and overtaking -the child in his singular little nest, pushed it before -him towards the shore. But no sooner was the act -performed than he found bitter cause to repent that -he had achieved it, for the serpent, which had harmlessly -curled round his little fellow-voyager down -the current, now darted from the pot, and winding -itself round the body of the Hindoo’s child, immediately -stung it, and caused its death. Supposing -that Providence had deprived them of one child only -to make way for another, they adopted the stranger, -and considered him as their own. But the strangeness<span class="pageno" id="Page_199">199</span> -of the event exciting great astonishment in the -country, the news at length reached the real father -of the child, who forthwith came and demanded his -offspring. The adoptive father resisting this demand, -the affair was brought before the king, who -very properly adjudged the infant to its natural -parent, though, by saving its life, the other had certainly -acquired some claim to it, the more especially -as by effecting his purpose he had accidentally rendered -himself childless.</p> - -<p class="c017">On his arrival at Delhi, our traveller assiduously -applied himself to business, and having disposed of -his jewelry to his satisfaction, partly to the Great -Mogul, and partly to his courtiers, repaired to court -to make his final obeisance to the monarch before his -departure. The emperor, who loved to exhibit his -riches and magnificence to strangers, particularly to -those who were likely to be dazzled, and to render an -inflated account of them to the world, caused him to -be informed that he wished him to remain during the -approaching festival in honour of his birthday, when -the annual ceremony of ascertaining the exact weight -of his royal person was to take place. It was now -the 1st of November, and the festival, which usually -lasted five days, was to begin on the 4th; but the -preparations, which had been commenced on the -7th of September, were now nearly completed, -and all Delhi looked forward with joy to the approaching -rejoicings. The two spacious courts of -the palace were covered with lofty tents of crimson -velvet, inwrought with gold; the immense poles -which sustained them, many of which were forty -feet high, and of the thickness of a ship’s mast, were -cased with solid plates of silver or gold. Around -the first court, beneath a range of porticoes, were -numerous small chambers, destined for the omrahs -on guard. Between these, on the days of the festival, -the spectators moved into the amkas, or great -hall of audience, which, together with the peacock<span class="pageno" id="Page_200">200</span> -throne, I shall describe in the life of Bernier. The -emperor, being seated upon his throne, a troop of -the most skilful dancing-girls was brought in, who, -with gestures and motions more voluptuous than -the ancient performers of the Chironomia ever -practised, amused the imagination of the monarch -and his courtiers, and excited the amazement of foreigners -at the licenses of an Asiatic court. On both -sides of the throne were fifteen horses, with bridles -and housings crusted with diamonds, rubies, pearls, -and emeralds, and held each by two men; and -shortly after the commencement of the ceremony, -seven war-elephants, of the largest size, caparisoned -in the most gorgeous style, were led in one -after the other, and caused to make the circuit of the -hall: when they came opposite the throne, each in -his turn made his obeisance to the sovereign, by -thrice lowering his trunk to the floor, and accompanying -each movement by a loud and piercing cry. -This exhibition being concluded, the emperor arose, -and retired with three or four of the principal eunuchs -into the harem. At an auspicious moment -during the festival, a large pair of scales was brought -into the amkas, the emperor’s weight was ascertained, -and if greater than on the preceding year, -singular rejoicings and triumphant shouts took place; -but if, on the contrary, his majesty was found to be -less unwieldy than heretofore, the event was regarded -with apprehension and sorrow.</p> - -<p class="c017">Two or three days previous to the barometry of -the mogul, our traveller enjoyed the flattering privilege -of beholding the imperial jewels. Having -been first admitted to an audience, he was led by -one of the principal courtiers into a small chamber -contiguous to the hall of audience, whither the unrivalled -collection of gems was brought for his inspection -by four eunuchs. They were laid out like -fruit in two large wooden bowls, highly varnished, -and exquisitely ornamented with delicate golden<span class="pageno" id="Page_201">201</span> -foliage. They were then uncovered, counted over -thrice, and as many lists of them made out by three -different scribes. Tavernier, who viewed all these -things with the eyes of a jeweller, rather than as a -traveller, curious to observe and examine, scrutinized -them piece by piece, descanting upon their -mercantile value, and the modes of cutting and polishing -by which they might have been rendered more -beautiful. In this mood he feasted his eyes upon -diamonds of incomparable magnitude and lustre; -upon chains of rubies, strings of orient pearls, amethysts, -opals, topazes, and emeralds, various in form, -and each reflecting additional light and beauty upon -the other.</p> - -<p class="c017">Having beheld these professional curiosities, he -left the Mogul court, and proceeded by the ordinary -route towards Bengal. The Ganges, where he -crossed it, in company with Bernier, he found no -larger than the Seine opposite the Louvre, an insignificant -stream which scarcely deserves the name -of a river. At Benares he observed the narrowest -streets and the loftiest houses which he had seen in -Hindostan, a circumstance remarked by all travellers, -and among the rest by Heber, who says, “The -houses are mostly lofty; none, I think, less than -two stories, most of three, and several of five or -six, a sight which I now for the first time saw in -India. The streets, like those of Chester, are considerably -lower than the ground floors of the houses, -which have mostly arched rows in front, with little -shops behind them. Above these the houses are -richly embellished with verandahs, galleries, projecting -oriel windows, and very broad and overhanging -coves, supported by carved brackets.” The -opposite sides of the streets stand so near to each -other in many places that they are united by galleries. -The number of stone and brick houses in the -city are upwards of twelve thousand, of clay houses -sixteen thousand; and the population in 1803 considerably<span class="pageno" id="Page_202">202</span> -exceeded half a million. Benares, according -to the Brahmins, forms no part of the terrestrial -globe, but rests upon the thousand-headed serpent -Anarta, or Eternity: or, according to others, on the -point of Siva’s trident, and hence no earthquakes are -ever felt there. The Great Lingam, or Phallies, of -Benares, is said to be a petrifaction of Siva himself; -and the worship of this emblem of the godhead so -generally prevails here, that the city contains at least -a million images of the Lingam. This holy city, the -Brahmins assure us, was originally built of gold, but -for the sins of mankind it was successively degraded -to stone, and brick, and clay.</p> - -<p class="c017">From Benares he proceeded through Patna and -Rajmahel to Daca, then a flourishing city; whence, -having disposed of numerous jewels to the nawâb, -he returned to Delhi.</p> - -<p class="c017">To avoid repetitions and perplexing breaks in the -narrative, I have paid no attention to the date of his -visits to this or that city; and, indeed, so confused -were his notes and his memory, that he does not -seem to have known very well himself during which -of his journeys many events which he relates took -place. Into the particulars of his voyage to Ceylon, -Sumatra, and Java it is unnecessary to enter, more -full and curious accounts of those islands occurring -in other travellers.</p> - -<p class="c017">On his return to France from his fifth visit to the -East, he married an <i>ancient</i> damsel, to borrow an -epithet from Burke, merely from gratitude to her -father, who was a jeweller, and had rendered him -several essential services. After this he undertook -one more journey into Asia, with merchandise to -the value of four hundred thousand livres, consisting -of curious clocks, crystal and agate vases, pearls, -and other jewelry. This expedition occupied him -six years, during which he advanced farther towards -the east than he had hitherto done; and having in -this and his other journeys amassed considerable<span class="pageno" id="Page_203">203</span> -wealth, he returned with a splendid assortment of -diamonds to France, having been engaged upwards -of forty years in travelling. Disposing of these -jewels advantageously to the French king, who -granted him a patent of nobility, he now conceived -that all his wanderings were at an end, and began -to think of enjoying the wealth he had purchased with -so much time and toil and difficulty. Experience, -however, had not rendered him wise. Puffed up -with the vanity inspired by his patent of nobility, his -whole soul was now wrapped up in visions of luxury -and magnificence. He rented a splendid house, set -up a carriage, and hired a number of valets. The -nobility, who no doubt devoured his adventures and -his dinners with equal greediness, flocked about him, -invited, caressed, flattered, and ruined him.</p> - -<div class="lg-container-b"> -<div class="linegroup"> - <div class="group"> - <div class="line">Live like yourself was now my lady’s word!</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p class="c017">He was prevailed upon by some of his noble -friends, who supposed him to be possessed of the -wealth of Crœsus, to purchase a baronial castle and -estate near Lyons, the repairs of which, united with -the absurd expenses of his household, quickly threatened -to plunge him into the poverty and obscurity -from which he originally rose. To accelerate this -unhappy catastrophe, undoubtedly owing principally -to his own folly, his nephew, to whose management -he had intrusted a valuable venture in the hope of retrieving -his shattered fortune, proved dishonest, -married, and remained in the East, appropriating to -his own use the property of his uncle. To increase -the consternation caused in his family by these private -calamities, it was rumoured that the edict of -Nantes was about to be revoked, which induced -him immediately to dispose of his estate, and prepare -to emigrate with the great body of the Protestants -out of France. Time for proper negotiations -not being allowed, the barony was sold for considerably -less than it had cost him; and every thing<span class="pageno" id="Page_204">204</span> -now going unprosperously with our noble jeweller, -his family retired to Berlin, while he repaired, in an -obscure manner, to Paris, in quest of funds for another -journey into the East.</p> - -<p class="c017">Tavernier was now in his eighty-third year, broken -in spirits, ruined in fortune, and bending beneath the -effects of age; but his courage had not forsaken him. -He succeeded by dint of great exertions in getting -together a considerable venture, and departed for -Hindostan by way of Russia and Tartary. That he -arrived safely at Moscow is tolerably certain; but -in this city we lose sight of him; some writers affirming -that he died there, while others more confidently -assert, that having spent some time at this ancient -capital of Russia, he continued his journey, -and embarked with his merchandise in a bark upon -the Volga, with the design of descending that river -to the Caspian Sea. Whether this wretched bark -foundered in the stream, or, which is more probable, -was plundered, and its crew and passengers -massacred by the Tartars, is what has never been -ascertained. At all events, Tavernier here disappears, -for no tidings of him ever reached France -from that time. He is supposed to have died in 1685, -or 1686.</p> - -<p class="c017">His works have gone through several editions, and -may be consulted with advantage by the students of -Asiatic manners, though the style, which is that of -some miserable compiler whom he employed to digest -his rough memoirs, be intolerably bald and enervate; -while the method and arrangement are, perhaps, -the worst that could have been adopted. Had -he contented himself with the simple form of a journal, -narrating events as they occurred, and describing -things as they presented themselves to his notice, -he could not have been more prolix, and would undoubtedly -have rendered his work more agreeable -and useful. As a traveller, he is undoubtedly entitled -to the praise of enterprise and perseverance; no<span class="pageno" id="Page_205">205</span> -dangers appalled, no misfortunes depressed him; but -his remarks are always rather the remarks of a trader -than of a traveller. Wealth was his grand object; -knowledge and fame things of secondary consideration. -The former, however, he gained and lost; his -reputation, though far less brilliant than that of many -other travellers, remains to him, and will long remain -a monument of what can be effected by persevering -mediocrity.</p> - -<div class="pbb"> - <hr class="pb c004" /> -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="c012" id="FRANCOIS_BERNIER">FRANÇOIS BERNIER.</h2> -</div> - -<div class="nf-center-c0"> -<div class="nf-center c004"> - <div>Born about 1624.—Died 1688.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class="c016"><span class="sc">This</span> distinguished traveller was born at Angers -about the year 1624. Though educated for the medical -profession, and actuated in an extraordinary -manner by that ardour for philosophical speculation -which pervaded his literary contemporaries, the -passion for travelling prevailed over every other; so -that, having prepared himself by severe study for -visiting distant countries with advantage, and taken -his doctor’s degree at Montpellier, he departed from -France in the year 1654, and passed over into Syria. -From thence he proceeded to Egypt, where he remained -upwards of a year. In this country he assiduously -occupied himself in inquiries respecting the -sources of the Nile, the time and manner of its rise, -the causes and nature of the plague, and the fall of -that dew which is said to deprive its virus of all activity. -Being at Rosetta eight or ten days after this -dew had shed its mysterious moisture over the earth, -he had an opportunity, which had like to have cost -him dear, of discovering the absurdity of the popular -belief upon this subject. He was at supper with a -party of friends at the house of M. Bermon, vice-consul<span class="pageno" id="Page_206">206</span> -of France, when three persons were suddenly -stricken with the plague. Of these, two died in the -course of eight days; and the third, who was M. -Bermon himself, seemed likely to follow their example, -when our medical traveller undertook the treatment -of his disease. What medicines he administered -to his patient he has not stated, but he lanced -the pestiferous pustules which rose upon the skin; -and either by performing this operation, or by inhaling -the infected atmosphere of the sick chamber, -himself caught the infection. The patient now recovered, -while the physician in turn became the prey -of disease. When Bernier perceived himself to be -in the plague, the first step he took was to swallow -an emetic of butter of antimony, which, together -with the natural force of his constitution, subdued -the disorder, and enabled him in the course of three -or four days to resume his ordinary pursuits. He -was, perhaps, somewhat indebted to his Bedouin -attendant for the preservation of his cheerfulness and -tranquillity during his illness. This man, relying, or -appearing to rely, upon the doctrine of predestination, -in order to cheer and encourage him, by showing -him how lightly he thought of the matter, used -daily to eat the remainder of the food which his sick -master had touched.</p> - -<p class="c017">Having satisfied his curiosity respecting Egypt, -and visited Mount Sinai and the neighbouring deserts, -he proceeded to Suez, and embarked in an Arab -vessel for Jidda. The Turkish bey, then governor -of this post, had deluded him with the hope of being -able to visit Mecca and the Kaaba, places interdicted -to all Christians; but having waited for this permission -thirty-four days, and perceiving no likelihood -of obtaining it, he again embarked; and sailing for -fifteen days along the coast of Arabia Felix, or Yeman, -arrived at Mokha, near the straits of Babelmandel. -During his stay in this city, he partook of -the hospitality of Murad, an Armenian Christian, and<span class="pageno" id="Page_207">207</span> -a native of Aleppo, but who had settled in Abyssinia, -whence he was now come into Arabia with a number -of black slaves to be disposed of for the benefit -of the Abyssinian king, from whom he likewise bore -the customary annual present which that august -monarch made to the English and Dutch East India -companies, in the hope of receiving one of greater -value in return. With the proceeds of the slaves -Indian merchandise was purchased; so that in exchange -for a few useless subjects, his Abyssinian -majesty annually received a large quantity of fine -muslins, spices, and diamonds. With this honest -Armenian merchant our traveller had a very characteristic -transaction, which, although it happened -some time after the visit to Mokha, may very well -come in here. Murad, it seems, in addition to his -Aleppine wife, maintained a harem of Nubian or -Abyssinian girls, by one of whom he had a son, who -to the pure black complexion of his mother united -the fine handsome features peculiar to the Caucasian -race. This noble little fellow Murad, who was desirous -of turning the produce of his harem to account, -offered to sell M. Bernier for fifty rupees; but -observing that his guest was extremely anxious to -possess the prize, he suddenly changed his mind, -and refused to part with his darling son for less than -three hundred rupees. At this strange instance of -rapacity our traveller became offended, and broke off -the negotiation; though, as he tells us, he was peculiarly -desirous of concluding the bargain, as much -for the sake of the boy as for the purpose of seeing -a father sell his own child. There seems, however, -to be some reason for suspecting that the Armenian -was not quite so nearly related to the boy as he pretended, -his paternity being in all probability feigned, -for the purpose of enhancing the price of his little -slave.</p> - -<p class="c017">From Mokha it was Bernier’s intention to have -crossed the Red Sea to the island of Mesowa and<span class="pageno" id="Page_208">208</span> -Arkiko, from whence he expected an easy passage -might be obtained into the country of Habesh or -Abyssinia. To dissuade him from his purpose, however, -Murad and others, who might, perhaps, have -had some sinister motives for their conduct, assured -him, that since the expulsion of the Jesuits, effected -by the intrigues of the queen-mother, no Roman -Catholic was secure in the country, where a poor -Capuchin friar, who attempted to enter it by way -of Snakin, had recently lost his head. These and -other considerations turned the current of his ideas. -He abandoned Africa, and, embarking on board of an -Indian ship bound for Surat, sought the shores of -Hindostan.</p> - -<p class="c017">On the arrival of our traveller in India, those fratricidal -wars between the sons of Shah Johan, which -terminated with the dethronement of the aged emperor -and the accession of Aurungzebe to the throne -of Delhi, had already commenced, and confusion, -terror, and anarchy prevailed throughout the empire. -Nevertheless Bernier hastened to the capital, where, -finding that partly by robbery, partly by the ordinary -expenses of travelling, his finances had been -reduced to a very low ebb, he contrived to be appointed -one of the physicians to the Great Mogul.</p> - -<p class="c017">About twelve months before Bernier’s appointment -to this office, the emperor, who, though upwards of -seventy, was immoderately addicted to the excesses -of the harem, had become grievously ill from that -disorder, it is supposed, which cut off untimely the -chivalrous rival of the Emperor Charles V. His four -sons imagining, and all, indeed, excepting the eldest, -ardently desiring, that he might be drawing near his -end, had at once rushed to arms, and with powerful -armaments collected in their various subahs, or governments, -had advanced towards the capital, each -animated by the hope of opening himself a way to -<i>musnud</i> through the hearts of his brethren. Their -battles, negotiations, intrigues, and mutual treachery,<span class="pageno" id="Page_209">209</span> -though related in a vivid and energetic manner by -Bernier, can find no place in this narrative. Aurungzebe, -having defeated and put to flight the Rajah -Jesswunt Singh, was now advancing towards the -capital, when his eldest brother, Dara, incensed at -his audacity, and naturally impatient of delay, advanced -with the imperial army towards the Chumbul -and that range of mountain passes which extends -between the Jumna and Guzerat. Here a battle was -fought, in which Aurungzebe was victor. Dara, with -the wretched remnant of his forces, fled towards -Ahmedabad, the ancient Mohammedan capital of Guzerat. -In this miserable plight he was met by Bernier, -whom the prince, who had known him at Delhi, -and had now no medical attendant, compelled to follow -in his train. In the East misfortune is singularly -efficacious in thinning the ranks of a prince’s -retinue. Dara was now accompanied by little more -than two thousand men, and this number, moreover, -was daily diminished by the peasantry of the country, -a wild and savage race, who hung upon his rear, -pillaging and murdering all those who lagged for a -moment behind the body of the army. It was now -the midst of summer; the heat was tremendous; -and the fugitives, without baggage or tents, had to -make their way over the naked sandy plains of Ajmere, -by day exposed to the intolerable rays of the -sun, and by night to the dews and chilling blasts -which sometimes issue from the northern mountains. -However, the prince and his followers pushed on -rapidly, and now began to entertain some hopes of -safety, having approached to within one day’s journey -of Ahmedabad, the governor of which had been -promoted to the post by Dara himself. But the -emissaries and the gold of Aurungzebe had already -done their work at Ahmedabad. The treacherous -governor, on hearing of the near approach of the -prince, wrote to prohibit his drawing nearer the city, -informing him that if he persisted he would find the<span class="pageno" id="Page_210">210</span> -gates shut, and the people in arms against him. On -the evening before this news was brought to him, -Dara had taken refuge with his harem in a caravansary, -into which, in spite of the natural aversion of -all orientals to introduce strangers among the women -of their anderûn, he kindly invited Bernier, apprehending -lest the sanguinary peasantry should beat -out his brains in the darkness. Here it was melancholy -to see the shifts to which this unfortunate -prince was driven to have recourse for the preserving, -even in this last extremity, of the dignity of his -harem; for, possessing neither tent nor any other -effectual covering, he caused a few slight screens to -be fixed up, in order to maintain some semblance of -seclusion, and these were kept steady by being tied -to the wheels of Bernier’s wagon.</p> - -<p class="c017">Meanwhile, as the determination of the governor -of Ahmedabad was not yet known, the most intense -anxiety prevailed among the fugitives. Every gust -which moaned along the surrounding waste appeared -to their half-slumbering senses to announce the approach -of some messenger. The hours, which seem -to flit away so rapidly when men are happy, now appeared -so many ages. Time and the wheeling stars -above their heads seemed to stand still; and their -very souls were sick with expectation. At length, -as the red dawn began to appear in the east, a single -horseman was discovered scouring across the plain. -His tidings from Ahmedabad were such as have been -related above. Upon hearing this dreadful intelligence, -the ladies of the harem, who had hitherto -consoled themselves with the hope of tasting a little -repose in that city, which had become a kind of land -of promise in their eyes, gave themselves up wholly -to despair, and tears, sobs, and the most passionate -lamentations burst unrestrainedly forth, and brought -tears into the eyes of many not much used to weeping. -Every thing was now thrown into the utmost -trouble and confusion. Each person looked at the<span class="pageno" id="Page_211">211</span> -face of his neighbour, in the hope of discovering -some ray of consolation, some sign of counsel, fore-thought, -or magnanimity. But all was blank. Not -a soul could advise any thing for the general safety, -or knew how to avert the doom which impended over -himself. Presently, however, Dara, half-dead with -grief, came out to his people, and addressed himself -now to one person, now to another, even to the -meanest soldier. He perceived that terror had seized -upon every soul, and that they were all about to -abandon him. What was to be his fate? Whither -could he fly? It was necessary to depart instantly. -The condition of the army may be conjectured from -that of our traveller. The wagon in which he travelled -had been drawn by three large Guzerat oxen, -one of which had died on the previous day from fatigue, -another was now dying, and the third was -wholly unable to move. Nevertheless, the prince, -who stood in need of his aid both for himself and for -one of his wives, who had been wounded in the leg, -found it absolutely impossible to procure either -horse, ox, or camel for his use, and was therefore -compelled to leave him behind. Bernier saw him -depart with tears in his eyes, accompanied at most -by four or five horsemen, and two elephants said to -be loaded with silver and gold. He struck off towards -Tettabakar, through pathless deserts of sand, -where, for the most part, not a drop of water was to -be found; and though, as afterward appeared, he actually -succeeded in reaching the point of destination, -several of his followers, and, indeed, many of his -harem, died by the way of thirst or fatigue, or were -murdered by the banditti.</p> - -<p class="c017">Bernier, being thus abandoned by the ill-fated -prince, in a country overrun with robbers, was at a -loss what course to pursue. The circumstances of -the moment, however, left him no time for deliberation; -for no sooner had Dara and his train disappeared -than our traveller’s wagon was surrounded<span class="pageno" id="Page_212">212</span> -by the banditti, who forthwith commenced the work -of plunder. Fortunately, his servant and driver preserved -their presence of mind, and, addressing themselves -to the marauders, began to inquire whether -they would thus pillage the effects of a man who was -the first physician in the world, and had already been -deprived of the most valuable part of his property by -the satellites of Dara. At the mention of the word -<i>physician</i> these fierce banditti, who, like all barbarians, -entertained a kind of innate reverence for the -children of Esculapius, were rendered as mild as -gazelles, and their hostile intentions were changed -into friendship. They now regarded this second -Pæon as their guest, and, having detained him seven -or eight days, kindly furnished him with an ox to -draw his wagon, and served him as guides and guards -until the towers of Ahmedabad appeared in sight. -At this city he remained several days, when an emir, -returning thence to Delhi, afforded him the protection -of his authority, and enabled him to perform the -journey with safety. The road over which they -travelled exhibited numerous traces of the calamities -of the times, being strewed at intervals with the -dead bodies of men, elephants, camels, horses, and -oxen, the wrecks of the wretched army of Dara.</p> - -<p class="c017">Aurungzebe, having outwitted and imprisoned his -father, was now in possession of Delhi and the imperial -throne, and exerted all the force of his versatile -and subtle genius to gain possession of the persons -of his enemies. Dara, the principal of these, -was soon afterward betrayed into his hands, and -brought to Delhi upon an elephant, bound hand and -foot, with an executioner behind him, who upon the -least movement was to cut off his head. When -he arrived at the gate of the city, Aurungzebe began -to deliberate whether it would be altogether safe, -under present circumstances, to parade him in this -style through the streets, considering the affection -which the people had always borne him; but it was<span class="pageno" id="Page_213">213</span> -at length determined to hazard the step, for the purpose -of convincing those who admired him of his -utter fall, and of the consequent extinction of their -hopes. His rich garments, his jewelled turban, his -magnificent necklace of pearls, had been taken from -him, and a dirty and miserable dress, such as would -have suited some poor groom, bestowed in their -stead; and thus habited, and mounted with his little -son upon a poor half-starved elephant, he was led -through the streets, lanes, and bazaars of the capital, -that the people might behold the fortune of their -favourite, and despair of his ever rising again. Expecting -that some strange revolution or horrible -slaughter would inevitably ensue, Bernier had repaired -on horseback, with a small party of friends -and two stout servants, to the grand bazaar, where -the most prodigious crowds were assembled, in -order to witness whatever might take place; but -although the multitude burst into tears at the -sight, and overwhelmed the wretch who had betrayed -him, and was then on horseback by his side, -with the most dire imprecations, not a sword was -drawn, or a drop of blood spilt.</p> - -<p class="c017">During the course of these public events Bernier -became physician to Danekmand Khan, the favourite -of Aurungzebe. Upon this appointment, he -seems to have been introduced at court, and presented -to the emperor; upon which occasion he -kissed the hem of the imperial garment, and offered, -for so custom ordered, eight rupees as a gift to the -richest sovereign upon earth. He was now perfectly -at his ease, enjoying, besides a liberal salary, -which seems to have answered all his wishes, the -friendship of the khan, a learned, inquisitive, and -generous-minded man, who devoted those hours -which others spent in debauchery to the discussion -of philosophical questions, and conversations on the -merits of Descartes and Gassendi. By the favour -of this nobleman the entry to the palace was open<span class="pageno" id="Page_214">214</span> -to him on all public occasions. He witnessed the -audience of foreign ambassadors, the pomp of the -imperial banquets, and was admitted, under certain -circumstances, into the recesses of the harem.</p> - -<p class="c017">Upon the termination of the civil wars, the Usbecks -of Balkh and Samarcand, who, having formerly -offered a grievous insult to Aurungzebe when he -seemed little likely to ascend the imperial <i>musnud</i>, -had now some reason to apprehend the effects of -his resentment, despatched ambassadors to congratulate -him upon his accession to the throne, and -to make him a tender of their services. When -these barbarians were admitted to an audience, -Bernier, according to custom, was present. Being -admitted into the imperial chamber, they made, -while yet at a considerable distance from the throne, -their salām to the emperor, after the Indian manner. -This ceremony consisted in thrice placing -the hand upon the head, and as frequently lowering -it to the earth; after which they advanced so near -the throne that, had he chosen to do so, the emperor -might have taken their letters from their own -hands; but this compliment he did not condescend -to pay them, ordering one of his emirs to receive -and present them to him. Having perused -these letters with a serious air, he caused each of -the ambassadors to be presented with a robe of -brocade, a turban, and a scarf or girdle of embroidered -silk. The presents were then brought forward. -They consisted of several boxes of lapis -lazuli, a number of long-haired camels, several -magnificent Tartarian horses, with many camel-loads -of fresh fruit, such as apples, pears, grapes, -and melons, articles which their country usually -furnished for the Delhi market, and an equal quantity -of dried fruits, as Bokham prunes, Kishmish -apricots or grapes without stones, and two other -species of fine large grapes. Aurungzebe bestowed -high commendations upon each article as it was presented,<span class="pageno" id="Page_215">215</span> -praised the generosity of the khans, and -having made some few inquiries respecting the -academy of Samarcand, dismissed the ambassadors -with the complimentary wish that he might see -them frequently.</p> - -<p class="c017">These honest men, who were exceedingly pleased -at their reception, were nevertheless constrained to -wait four months at Delhi before they could obtain -their dismissal; during which time they all fell -sick, and many of them died, rather, according to -Bernier, from the bad quality of their food, and -their contempt of cleanliness, than from the effect -of the climate. Judging from this specimen, our -traveller pronounced the Usbecks the most avaricious -and sordid people upon earth; for, though -furnished by the emperor with the means of living, -they preferred defrauding their stomachs and hazarding -their lives, to the idea of parting with their -gold, and subsisted in a very wretched and mean -style. When dismissed, however, they were treated -with great distinction. The emperor and all his -emirs presented them with rich dresses and eight -thousand rupees each; together with splendid robes, -a large quantity of exquisitely flowered brocade, -bales of fine muslin, and of silk striped with gold or -silver, and a number of carpets and two jewelled -khaudjars, or poniards, for their masters.</p> - -<p class="c017">In the hope of learning something respecting -their country, Bernier frequently visited them during -their stay, but found them so grossly ignorant -that they were unable to make any important additions -to his knowledge. They invited him to dinner, -however, and thus afforded his curiosity a -glance at their domestic manners. Among them a -stranger, as might be expected, was not overwhelmed -with ceremony, and so far they were -polite. The viands, which our traveller considered -extraordinary, consisted of excellent horse-flesh, a -very good ragout, and an abundance of pilau, which<span class="pageno" id="Page_216">216</span> -his robust hosts found so much to their taste, that -during the repast they could not snatch a single -moment to waste on conversation. Their guest, -with infinite good taste, imitated their example, -made a hearty dinner; and then, when the horse-flesh, -pilau, and all had been devoured, they found -their tongue, and entertained him with panegyrics -upon their own skill in archery, and the amazonian -prowess and ferocity of their women. In illustration -of the latter, they related an anecdote which, -as highly characteristic, may be worth repeating. -When Aurungzebe formerly led an army against the -khan of Samarcand, a party of twenty or thirty -Hindoo horsemen attacked a small village, which -they plundered, and were engaged in binding a number -of the inhabitants whom they intended to dispose -of as slaves, when an old woman came up to -them and said, “My children, be not so cruel. -My daughter, who is not greatly addicted to mercy, -will be here presently. Retire, if you are wise. -Should she meet with you, you are undone.” The -soldiers, however, not only laughed at the old -woman and her counsel, but seized and tied her -also. They had not proceeded above half a league -with their booty, when their aged prisoner, who -never ceased turning her eyes towards the village, -uttered a scream of joy, for by the cloud of dust -which she beheld rising on the plain she knew her -daughter was advancing to the rescue. On turning -round, the soldiers beheld the amazon mounted on -a fiery war-horse, with her bow and quiver by her -side. She now raised her stentorian voice, and -commanded them as they valued their lives to -release their prisoners, and carry back whatever -they had taken to the village, in which case she -would spare them. But they regarded her menaces -no more than they had those of her mother. When -three or four of the party, however, had felt the -point of her arrows in their heart, and were stretched<span class="pageno" id="Page_217">217</span> -upon the earth, they began to be a little more -alarmed, and had recourse to their own bows. -But all their arrows fell short of the mark, while -her powerful bow and arm sent every weapon -home, so that she quickly despatched the greater -number of her enemies, and having dispersed and -terrified the remainder, rushed upon them sabre in -hand, and hewed them to pieces.</p> - -<p class="c017">During the number of years which Bernier spent -in Hindostan in a position peculiarly favourable to -observation, he possessed ample leisure for correcting -and maturing his opinions. His views, therefore, -are entitled to the highest respect, the more -especially as no trait of gasconading is visible in -his character, and no touch of rhetorical flourishing -in his style. His countrymen, in general, assuming -Paris as the standard of whatever is noble or beautiful -in architecture, describe every thing which -differs from their type as inferior; but Bernier, -whom philosophy had delivered from this paltry -nationality, without depreciating the capital of his -own country, observes, that whatever might be its -beauties, they would be but so many defects could -the city be transported to the plains of Hindostan, -the climate requiring other modes of building, and -different arrangements. Delhi was, in fact, a magnificent -city in his times. Whatever Asia could -furnish of barbaric pomp or gorgeous show was -there collected together, and disposed with as much -taste as Mongol or Persian art could give birth to. -Domes of vast circumference and fantastic swell -crowned the summits of the mosques, and towered -aloft above the other structures of the city; palaces, -cool, airy, grotesque, with twisted pillars, balustrades -of silver, and roofs of fretted gold; elephants -moving their awkward and cumbrous bulk to and -fro, disguised in glittering housings, and surmounted -with golden houdahs; and gardens, shaded and perfumed -by all the most splendid trees and sweetest<span class="pageno" id="Page_218">218</span> -flowers of Asia: such were the principal features -of Delhi.</p> - -<p class="c017">Our traveller did not at first relish the Mussulman -music, its loud ear-piercing tones being too powerful -for his tympanum. By degrees, however, their -hautboys of a fathom and a half in length, and their -cymbals of copper or iron not less than a fathom in -circumference, which appeared to make the very -earth tremble with their tremendous clangour, became -familiar to his ear, and seemed delightfully -musical, particularly at night, when he lay awake -in his lofty bedchamber, and heard their loud symphonies -from a distance. In a range of turrets -within the palace, before which this martial music -was daily heard, was situated the harem, or seraglio, -as it was termed by Europeans in those days. This -mysterious part of the palace Bernier traversed but -did not see, having been called in to prescribe for a -great lady of the court, but conducted by a eunuch -blindfold, or with a cashmere shawl thrown over his -head and descending to his feet, through the various -chambers and passages. He learned, however, from -the eunuchs, that the harem contained very noble -apartments, each of which was furnished with its -reservoir of running water, and opened upon gardens, -with covered walks, dusky bowers, grottoes, -streams, fountains, and immense caves, into which -the ladies retired during the heat of the day. Thus -the inconveniences of the climate were never felt -in this secluded paradise. The most delightful portion -of this part of the palace, according to the -eunuchs, was a small tower covered with plates of -gold, and glittering on the inside with azure, gold, -mirrors, and the richest and most exquisite pictures. -It overlooked the Jumna, and thence the ladies -could enjoy a fine prospect and the coolest air.</p> - -<p class="c017">Though by no means liable to be dazzled by -pompous exhibitions, Bernier could not refuse his -admiration to the Great Mogul’s hall of audience,<span class="pageno" id="Page_219">219</span> -and the splendour of the peacock throne. In fact, -the appearance of this hall upon one of the principal -Mohammedan festivals he considered one of the most -remarkable things which he saw during his travels. -Upon entering the spacious and lofty saloon the first -object which met the eye was the emperor himself -seated upon his throne, and attired in the most magnificent -and gorgeous style of the East. His robe -was composed of white satin with small flowers, relieved -by a rich border of silk and gold; his turban, -of stiff cloth of gold, was adorned with an aigrette, -the stem of which was crusted with diamonds of prodigious -size and value, in the midst of which a large -oriental topaz of unparalleled beauty blazed like a -mimic sun; while a string of large pearls fell from -his neck upon his bosom, like the beads of a devotee. -The throne was supported upon six large feet of -massive gold, set with rubies, emeralds, and diamonds. -But its principal ornament were two peacocks, -whose feathers were imitated by a crust of -pearls and jewels. The real value of this throne -could not be exactly ascertained, but it was estimated -at four azores, or forty millions of rupees.—At -the foot of the throne stood all the numerous -emirs or princes of the court, magnificently apparelled, -with a canopy of brocade with golden fringe -overhead, and all round a balustrade of massive silver, -to separate them from the crowd of ordinary mortals, -who took their station without. The whole riches -of the empire seemed collected there in one heap, -for the purpose of dazzling and astonishing the -crowd. The pillars of the saloon were hung round -with brocade with a gold ground, and the whole of -the end near the throne was shaded with canopies -of flowered satin, attached with silken cords and -nets of gold. Upon the floor immense silken carpets, -of singular fineness and beauty, were spread -for the feet of the courtiers. In short, wherever the -eye could turn, the heart and secret thoughts of the<span class="pageno" id="Page_220">220</span> -assembly not being visible, its glances alighted upon -a blaze of grandeur, above, around, below, until the -aching sight would gladly have sought repose among -the serener and more soothing beauties of external -nature.</p> - -<p class="c017">In the several visits which Bernier made to Agra, -the object which principally attracted his attention -was the celebrated taj, or tomb, of Nourmahal, the -favourite wife of Shah Jehan, which he considered -far more worthy than the pyramids to be enumerated -among the wonders of the world. Leaving -the city and proceeding towards the east, through -a long, broad street, running between lofty garden-walls -and fine new houses, he entered the imperial -gardens. Here numerous structures, varying in their -forms, yet all possessing their peculiar beauties, -courted observation; but the enormous dome of the -mausoleum, rising like the moon “inter minora sidera,” -immediately absorbed all his attention. To -the right and left dim covered walks and parterres -of flowers yielded soft glimpses of shadow and a -breeze of perfume as he moved along. At length -he arrived in front of the building. In the centre -rose a vast dome, which, together with the tall, -slender minarets on both sides of it, was supported -by a range of beautiful arches, partly closed up by -a wall, and partly open. The façade of the structure -consisted entirely of marble, white like alabaster; -and in the centre of the closed arches were tablets -of the same material, thickly inlaid with verses from -the Koran, wrought in black marble. The interior -of the dome was bordered, like the exterior, with -white marble, thickly inlaid with jasper, cornelian, -and lapis lazuli, delicately disposed in the form of -flowers and other beautiful objects. The pavement -was formed of alternate squares of black and white -marble, disposed with singular art, and producing -the finest effect imaginable upon the eye.</p> - -<p class="c017">In the month of December, 1663, Aurungzebe,<span class="pageno" id="Page_221">221</span> -attended by his whole court, and an army of ten -thousand foot and thirty-five thousand horse, undertook -a journey into Cashmere, in the pleasures of -which, through the favour of Danekmend Khan, -Bernier was allowed to partake. Keeping as long -as possible near the banks of the Jumna, in order -to enjoy by the way the pleasures of the chase, and -the salubrious waters of the river, the army proceeded -towards its place of destination by the way of Lahere. -The style of travelling adopted by the Great Mogul -was perfectly unique. Two sets of tents numerous -and spacious enough to contain the whole of the -imperial retinue were provided, and of these one set -was sent forward, previous to the emperor’s setting -out, to the spot marked out for the first halting-place. -Here the ground was levelled by the pioneers, the -tents pitched, and every convenience provided which -the luxurious effeminacy of oriental courtiers, and -more particularly of the fretful and capricious inmates -of the harem, could require. When the emperor -arrived at his camp, a fresh body of pioneers -and labourers proceeded with the second set of tents, -which they pitched and prepared in like manner; -and thus a kind of city, with all its luxuries and -conveniences, perpetually moved in advance of the -prince, and became stationary whenever and wherever -he required it.</p> - -<p class="c017">During the journey Aurungzebe generally travelled -in a species of small turret or houdah, mounted -on the back of an elephant. In fine weather this -houdah was open on all sides, that the inmate might -enjoy the cool breeze from whatever quarter of the -heavens it might blow; but when storms or showers -came on, he closed his casements, and reclined upon -his couch, defended from all the inclemencies of the -weather as completely as in the apartments of his -palace. Ranchenara Begum, the sister of the emperor, -and the other great ladies of the harem, travelled -in the same kind of moving palace, mounted<span class="pageno" id="Page_222">222</span> -upon camels or elephants, and presented a spectacle -which Bernier delighted to contemplate. In general -the blinds or casements of these splendid little mansions -of gold, scarlet, and azure, were closed, to -preserve the charms of those within from “Phœbus’ -amorous kisses,” or the profane gaze of the vulgar; -but once, as the gorgeous cavalcade moved along, -our traveller caught a glimpse of the interior of -Ranchenara’s mikdembar, and beheld the princess -reclined within, while a little female slave fanned -away the dust and flies from her face with a bunch -of peacock’s feathers. A train of fifty or sixty elephants -similarly, though less splendidly, appointed, -moving along with grave, solemn pace, surrounded -by so vast a retinue as that which now accompanied -the court, appeared in the eyes of our traveller to -possess something truly royal in its aspect, and -with the beauteous goddesses which the fancy placed -within, seem, in spite of his affected philosophical -indifference, to have delighted him in a very extraordinary -manner. True philosophy, however, would -have admired the show, while it condemned the extravagance, -and despised the pride and effeminacy -which produced it.</p> - -<p class="c017">In this manner the court proceeded through Lahore -and the plains of the Pundjâb towards Cashmere; -but as their motions were slow, they were overtaken -in those burning hollows which condensed and reflected -back the rays of the sun like a vast burning-glass, -by the heats of summer, which are there little -less intense than on the shores of the Persian Gulf. -No sooner had the sun appeared above the horizon -than the heat became insupportable. Not a cloud -stained the firmament; not a breath of air stood -upon the earth. Every herb was scorched to cinders; -and throughout the wide horizon nothing appeared -but an interminable plain of dust below, and -above a brazen or coppery sky, glowing like the -mouth of a furnace. The horses, languid and worn<span class="pageno" id="Page_223">223</span> -out, could scarcely drag their limbs along; the very -Hindoos themselves, who seem designed to revel in -sunshine, began to droop, and our traveller, who had -braved the climate of Egypt and the Arabian deserts, -writing from the camp, on the tenth day of their -march from Lahore, exclaims, “My whole face, -hands, and feet are flayed, and my whole body is -covered with small red pustules which prick like -needles. Yesterday, one of our horsemen, who -happened to have no tent, was found dead at the -foot of a tree, which he had grasped in his last agonies. -I doubt whether I shall be able to hold out -till night. All my hopes rest upon a little curds -which I steep in water, and on a little sugar, with -four or five lemons. The very ink is dried up at the -point of my pen, and the pen itself drops from my -hand. Adieu.”</p> - -<p class="c017">His frame, however, was much tougher than he -imagined; and he continued to proceed with the rest, -till having crossed the Chenâb, one of the five rivers, -they ascended Mount Bember, and found themselves -in Cashmere, the Tempé of Hindostan. The traditions -of the Hindoos respecting the formation of this -beautiful valley greatly resemble those which prevailed -among the Greeks about that of Thessaly, both -being said to have been originally a lake enclosed -by lofty mountains, which having, been rent by the -agency of earthquakes, or bored by human industry, -suffered the waters to escape. Whatever was its -origin, the Indian Tempé, though vaunted by less -renowned poets, is no way inferior in fertility or -beauty to the Thessalian. Fields clothed with -eternal green, and sprinkled thick with violets, roses, -narcissuses, and other delicate or fragrant flowers, -which here grow wild, meet the eye on all sides; -while, to divide or diversify them, a number of small -streams of crystal purity, and several lakes of various -dimensions, glide or sparkle in the foreground -of the landscape. On all sides round arise a range<span class="pageno" id="Page_224">224</span> -of low green hills, dotted with trees, and affording -a delicious herbage to the gazelle and other graminivorous -animals; while the pinnacles of the Himalaya, -pointed, jagged, and broken into a thousand -fantastic forms, rear their snowy heads behind, and -pierce beyond the clouds. From these unscaleable -heights, amid which the imagination of the Hindoo -has placed his heaven, ever bright and luminous, innumerable -small rivulets descend to the valley; and -after rushing in slender cataracts over projecting -rocks, and peopling the upland with noise and foam, -submit to the direction of the husbandman, and spread -themselves in artificial inundations over the fields -and gardens below. These numerous mountain-torrents, -which unite into one stream before they -issue from the valley, may be regarded as the sources -of the Jylum or Hydaspes, one of the mightiest rivers -of Hindostan.</p> - -<p class="c017">The beauty and fertility of Cashmere are equalled -by the mildness and salubrity of the climate. Here -the southern slopes of the hills are clothed with the -fruits and flowers of Hindostan; but pass the summit, -and you find upon the opposite side the productions -of the temperate zone, and the features of a -European landscape. The fancy of Bernier, escaping -from the curb of his philosophy, ran riot among -these hills, which, with their cows, their goats, their -gazelles, and their innumerable bees, might, like the -promised land, be said to flow with milk and honey.</p> - -<p class="c017">The inhabitants of this terrestrial paradise, who -were as beautiful as their climate, possessed the reputation -of being superior in genius and industry to -the rest of the Hindoos. The arts and sciences -flourished among them; and their manufactures of palanquins, -bedsteads, coffers, cabinets, spoons, and inlaid -work, were renowned throughout the East. But -the fabric which tended most powerfully to diffuse -their reputation for ingenuity were their shawls, -those soft and exquisite articles of dress which,<span class="pageno" id="Page_225">225</span> -from that day to this, have enjoyed the patronage of -the fair throughout the world. In the days of Bernier -these shawls were comparatively little known -in Europe; yet his account of them, though highly -accurate as far as it goes, is brief and rather unsatisfactory.</p> - -<p class="c017">During the three or four months which he spent -in this beautiful country he made several excursions -to the surrounding mountains, where, amid the -wildest and most majestic scenery, he beheld with -wonder, he tells us, the natural succession of generation -and decay. At the bottom of many precipitous -abysses, where man’s foot had never descended, -he saw hundreds of enormous trunks, hurled down -by time, and heaped upon each other in decay; while -at their foot, or between their crumbling branches, -young ones were shooting up and flourishing. Some -of the trees were scorched and burnt, either blasted -by the thunderbolt, or, according to the traditions -of the peasantry, set on fire in the heat of summer -by rubbing against each other, when agitated by -fierce burning winds.</p> - -<p class="c017">The court, having visited Cashmere from motives -of pleasure, were determined to taste every species -of it which the country could supply; the wild and -sublime, which must be sought with toil and difficulty, -as well as those more ordinary ones which lay -strewed like flowers upon the earth. The emperor -accordingly, or at least his harem, ascended the lower -range of hills, to enjoy the prospect of abyss and -precipice, impending woods, dusky and horrible, and -streams rushing forth from their dark wombs, and -leaping with thundering and impetuous fury over -cliffs of prodigious elevation. One of these small -cataracts appeared to Bernier the most perfect thing -of the kind in the world; and Jehangheer, who -passed many years in Cashmere, had caused a neighbouring -rock, from which it could be contemplated -to most advantage, to be levelled, in order to behold<span class="pageno" id="Page_226">226</span> -it at his ease. Here a kind of theatre was raised by -Aurungzebe, for the accommodation of his court; -and there they sat, viewing with wondering delight -this sublime work of Nature, surpassing in grandeur, -and by the emotions to which it gave birth, all -the wonders of man’s hand. In this instance the -stream was beheld at a considerable distance rolling -along its weight of waters down the slope of the -mountain, through a sombre channel overhung with -trees. Arriving at the edge of a rock, the whole -stream projected itself forward, and curving round, -like the neck of a war-horse, in its descent plunged -into the gulf below with deafening and incessant -thunder.</p> - -<p class="c017">An accident which occurred during these imperial -excursions threw a damp over their merriment. In -ascending the Peer Punjal, the loftiest mountain of -the southern chain, from whose summit the eye -commands an extensive prospect of Cashmere, one -of the foremost elephants was seized with terror, -occasioned, according to the Hindoos, by the length -and steepness of the acclivity. This beast was one -of those upon which the ladies of the harem were -mounted; and fifteen others, employed in the same -service, followed. The moment his courage failed -him he began to reel backwards; and striking against -the animal which immediately succeeded, forced -him also to retreat. Thus the shock, communicated -from the first to the second, and from the second to -the third, in an instant threw back the whole fifteen; -and being upon the giddy edge of a precipice, no exertion -of their drivers or of the bystanders could -check their fall; and down they rolled over the rocks -into the abyss, with the ladies upon their backs. -This accident threw the whole army into consternation. -A general halt took place. The most adventurous -immediately crept down the cliffs, and -were followed by the rest, to aid such as should -have escaped with life, and remove the bodies of the<span class="pageno" id="Page_227">227</span> -dead. Here, to their great astonishment, they found -that, by the mercy of Providence, only three or four -of the ladies had been killed; but the elephants, -which, when they sink under their prodigious burdens -even on a smooth road, never rise again, had -all been mortally wounded by the fall, and could by -no means be lifted from the spot. Even two days -afterward, however, when Bernier again visited the -place, he observed some of the poor animals moving -their trunks.</p> - -<p class="c017">On returning to Delhi from Cashmere, our traveller -appears to have remained quiet for some time, -pursuing his researches amid the mazes of the atomical -philosophy; for he was a disciple of Democritus, -and enjoying those “noctes cœnæque deorum” -which seem to have constituted one of the principal -pleasures of his friend Danekmend Khan. His influence -with this chief he exerted for the benefit of -others no less than for his own. Numerous were -the individuals who owed to his interference or recommendation -their admission into the service of -the khan, or the speedy termination of their affairs -at court, where Danekmend, who possessed the -especial favour of the emperor, could almost always -procure an audience, or give success to a petition. -These kind offices were uniformly repaid with abundant -flattery, if not with gratitude; and the skilful -practitioners invariably discharged a portion of the -debt beforehand. Putting on a grave face—a possession -of infinite value in the East—every person -who had need of his services assured him at the -outset of the affair that he was the Aristotalis, the -Bocrate, and the Abousina Ulzaman (that is, the Aristotle, -the Hippocrates, and the Avicenna) of the -age. It was in vain that he disavowed all claim to -such immediate honours; they persisted in their assertions; -argued down his modesty; and eternally -renewing the charge, compelled him to acquiesce, -and consent to allow all the glorious attributes of<span class="pageno" id="Page_228">228</span> -those illustrious men to be centred in his own person. -A Brahmin whom he recommended to the khan outdid -them all; for, upon his first introduction to his -master, after having compared him to the greatest -kings and conquerors that ever reigned, he concluded -by gravely observing, “My lord, whenever -you put your foot in the stirrup, and ride abroad accompanied -by your cavalry, the earth trembles beneath -your feet, the eight elephants which support -it not being able to endure so great an exertion!” -Upon this, Bernier, who could no longer restrain his -disposition to laugh, remarked to the khan, that -since this was the case, it was advisable that he -should ride as seldom as possible on horseback, in -order to prevent those earthquakes, which might, -perhaps, occasion much mischief. “You are perfectly -right,” replied Danekmend, with a smile, -“and it is for that very reason that I generally go -abroad in a palanquin!”</p> - -<p class="c017">In the year 1666, while Bernier was still at Delhi, -there happened an eclipse of the sun, which was -attended by so many curious circumstances that, -should he have lived for ages, he declares it never -could have been obliterated from his memory. A -little before the obscuration commenced, he ascended -to the roof of his house, which, standing on -the margin of the Jumna, commanded a full view of -the stream, and of the surrounding plain. Both -sides of the river for nearly a league were covered -with Hindoos of both sexes, standing up to -the waist in the water, anxiously awaiting for the -commencement of the phenomenon, in order to -plunge into the river and bathe their bodies at the -auspicious moment. The children, both male and -female, were as naked as at the moment of their -birth—the women wore a single covering of muslin—the -men a slight girdle, or cummerbund, about -the waist. The rajahs, nobles, and rich merchants, -however, who, for the most part, had crossed the<span class="pageno" id="Page_229">229</span> -river with their families, had fixed up certain screens -in the water, which enabled them to bathe unseen. -Presently the dusky body of the moon began to obscure -a portion of the burning disk of the superior -planet, and in a moment a tremendous shout arose -from the multitude, who then plunged several times -into the stream, muttering during the intervals an -abundance of prayers, raising their eyes and their -hands towards the sun, sprinkling water in the air, -bowing the head, and practising a thousand gesticulations. -These ceremonies continued to the end of -the eclipse, when, throwing pieces of money far into -the stream, putting on new garments, some leaving -the old ones, besides the gifts which in common -with all others they bestowed, for the Brahmins, -others retaining them, the whole multitude dispersed.</p> - -<p class="c017">The Hindoos, however, were not singular in the -superstitious feelings with which they regarded -eclipses of the sun. Twelve years previous Bernier -had witnessed the effects which one of these -phenomena produced in his own country, where the -madness exhibited itself in the guise of fear. Astrologers, -possessing the confidence of the Fates, -had predicted that the end of the world, that unfailing -bugbear of the middle age, was now to take -place, and the terrified rabble of all ranks, conscious -of guilt, or oppressed by gloomy fanaticism, immediately -crept, like rats, into their cellars, or dark -closets, as if God could not have beheld them there; -or else rushed headlong to the churches, with a piety -begotten by apprehension. Others, who only anticipated -some malignant and perilous influence, -swallowed drugs, which were vaunted by their inventors -as sovereign remedies against the eclipse -disease! Thus it appears that the superstition of -the Hindoos was the less despicable of the two.</p> - -<p class="c017">During his long residence in India our traveller -twice visited Bengal. Of his first journey into that<span class="pageno" id="Page_230">230</span> -province the date is unknown, but his second visit -took place in 1667, the year in which he finally -quitted the country. He seems, on this occasion, to -have approached the place by sea, for we first find -him coasting along the Sunderbund in a small native -bark, with seven rowers, in which he ascended by -one of the western branches of the Ganges to the -town of Hoogly. The beauty of this immense delta, -divided into innumerable islands by the various arms -of the stream, and covered by a vegetation luxuriant -even to rankness, delighted him exceedingly. Even -then, however, many of these romantic isles had -been deserted, owing principally to the dread of the -pirates who infested the coast; and as in India the -spots which cultivation abandons quickly become the -abode of pestilential miasmata, which thenceforward -forbid the residence of man, no one now ventured -to disturb the tigers and their prey, which had -taken possession of the soil. It was here that for -the third time in his life he enjoyed the sight of that -rare phenomenon, a lunar rainbow. He had caused -his boat to be fastened to the branch of a tree, as -far as possible from the shore, through dread of the -tigers, and was himself keeping watch. The moon, -then near its full, was shining serenely in the western -sky, when, turning his eyes towards the opposite -quarter, he beheld a pale, bright arch, spanning -the earth, and looking like a phantom of the glorious -bow which, impregnated with the rich light of the -sun, gladdens the eye with its brilliant colours by -day. Next night the phenomenon was repeated; -and on the fourth evening another spectacle, now -familiar to most readers by description, delighted -our traveller and his boat’s crew. The woods on -both sides of the stream seemed suddenly to be illuminated -by a shower of fire, and glowed as if they -had been clothed with leaves of moving flames. -There was not a breath of wind stirring, and the -heat was intense. This added to the effect of the<span class="pageno" id="Page_231">231</span> -scene; for as the countless little fires streamed -hither and thither in columns, or separated, and fell -like drops of rain, or rose thick like the sparks of a -furnace, the two Portuguese pilots whom our traveller -had taken on board, imagined they were so many -demons. To add to the effect of this exhibition of -fireflies, for, as the reader will have foreseen, it was -they who were the actors, the swampy soil sent up -a number of those earthly meteors which often glide -over large morasses, some in the form of globes, -which rose and fell slowly, like enormous rockets, -while others assumed the shape of a tree of fire.</p> - -<p class="c017">From Bengal our traveller proceeded along the -Coromandel coast to Masulipatam, and having visited -the kingdoms of Golconda and Bejapore, quitted -Hindostan, after a residence of twelve years, and -returned by way of Persia and Mesopotamia to -Europe. The exact date of his arrival in France I -have not been able to discover, but it must have -been somewhere in the latter end of the year 1669, -or in the beginning of 1670; for the first two volumes -of his “History of the Revolutions of the -Mogul Empire,” which would require some time to -prepare them for the press, were published in the -course of that year. The third and fourth volumes -appeared in 1671, and so great was the reputation -they acquired, that they obtained for our traveller -the surname of “The Mogul.” These works, -which have frequently been reprinted under the title -of “The Travels of M. François Bernier, containing -the Description of the Mogul Empire, of Hindostan, -of the Kingdom of Cashmere, &c.,” were immediately -translated into English, and appear to have been -the means of introducing their author to the most -distinguished individuals of his time. Among those -most distinguished by his friendship were Ninon de -l’Enclos, Madame de la Sabliere, St. Evremont, and -Chapelle, whose <i>Eloge</i> he composed. To many of -these his speculative opinions, which were any thing<span class="pageno" id="Page_232">232</span> -but orthodox, may have rendered him agreeable; but -to Ninon, his handsome person, easy manners, and -fascinating conversation, which he knew how to enliven -with a thousand interesting anecdotes, must -have proved by far his greatest recommendation. -By St. Evremont he was called “the handsome philosopher;” -and in a letter to Ninon, this same writer -observes, “Speaking of the mortification of the -senses one day, to M. Bernier, he replied, ‘I will tell -you a secret which I would not willingly reveal to -Madame de la Sabliere or to Ninon, though it contains -an important truth; it is this—the abstaining -from pleasure is itself a crime.’ I was surprised,” -adds St. Evremont, “by the novelty of the system.” -Upon this M. Walkenaer shrewdly observes, that -this system could have possessed but very little -novelty for Mademoiselle de l’Enclos; and he might -have added that the surprise of the writer of the letter -must either have been affected, or else betrayed -a very slight acquaintance with the history of philosophy. -The other works of Bernier, which have -been suffered to sink into much greater neglect than -they perhaps deserve, are,—1. “An Abridgment of -the Philosophy of Gassendi:” in which, according -to Buhl, the acute and learned historian of Modern -Philosophy, he not only exhibited the talents of an -able and intelligent abbreviator, but, moreover, afforded -numerous proofs of a capacity to philosophize -for himself. On several important points he -differed from his friend, with whom, previous to his -travels, he had lived during many years on terms of -the strictest intimacy, and who died shortly after his -departure from France. 2. “A Memoir upon the -Quietism of India,” which appeared in the “Histoire -des Ouvrages des Savans,” for September, 1668. 3. -“Extract of various Pieces sent as Presents to Madame -de la Sabliere.” 4. “Eloge of Chapelle.” 5. -“Decree of the Grand Council of Parnassus for the -Support of the Philosophy of Aristotle.” 6. “Illustration<span class="pageno" id="Page_233">233</span> -of the Work of Father Valois, on the Philosophy -of Descartes,” published by Boyle. 7. “A -Treatise on Free Will.”</p> - -<p class="c017">The travels of Bernier, which enjoy a vast reputation -among the learned, have never, perhaps, been -popular, and can never become so, unless the various -letters and treatises of which the work is composed -be properly arranged, and the whole illustrated with -copious notes. As an acute observer of manners, -however, he has seldom been surpassed. His history -of the revolutions of the Mogul empire entitles -him to a high rank among the historians of India; -and his description of Cashmere, though brief, is -perhaps the best which has hitherto been given of -that beautiful country. In his private character he -appears to have been generous, humane, and amiable, -constant in his friendship, and capable, as may -be inferred from the singular affection entertained for -him by Gassendi and Danekmend Khan, of inspiring -a lasting and powerful attachment. Still, his inclination -for the dull, unimaginative, unspiritual philosophy -of Epicurus bespeaks but little enthusiasm -or poetical fervour of mind; and this feature in his -intellectual character may account for the inferior -degree of romance with which we contemplate his -adventures.</p> - -<div class="pbb"> - <hr class="pb c004" /> -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="c012" id="SIR_JOHN_CHARDIN">SIR JOHN CHARDIN.</h2> -</div> - -<div class="nf-center-c0"> -<div class="nf-center c004"> - <div>Born 1643.—Died 1713.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class="c016"><span class="sc">Sir</span> John Chardin was born at Paris on the 16th -of November, 1643. He was the son of a rich Protestant -jeweller, who, as soon as his education, which -appears to have been carefully conducted and liberal, -was completed, intrusted him with the management<span class="pageno" id="Page_234">234</span> -of a commercial speculation in the East, and thus at -once gratified and influenced the passion for visiting -new and remote regions which had already taken -possession of the mind of our traveller. Leaving -Paris at the age of twenty-two, he visited Hindostan -and Persia, where he remained several years, and -was appointed merchant to the king. His manly -but shrewd character, united with extensive knowledge -and great suavity of manners, procured him -numerous friends at the court of Ispahan, some -of whom filled important offices in the government, -and were thus enabled to lay open to him the interior -movements of the great political machine which he -afterward described with so much vigour and perspicuity. -He accompanied the shah on his visits to -various portions of his dominions, and in this way -was enabled to traverse with pleasure and advantage -the wilder and least accessible districts of Persia, -such as Mazenderan, Ghilan, and the other provinces -bordering on the Caspian Sea. Of this portion of -his life, however, he did not judge it necessary -to give any detailed account; perhaps because he -had afterward occasion to visit the same scenes, -when his mind was riper, his views more enlarged, -and his powers of observation and description sharpened -and invigorated by experience and habit.</p> - -<p class="c017">Returning to France in 1670, he remained fifteen -months in the bosom of his family, and employed -this period of tranquillity and leisure in the composition -of his “History of the Coronation of Solyman -III., King of Persia;” a small work usually appended -to his account of his travels. The desire of fame -and distinction, however, which in youthful and ardent -minds is generally the ruling passion, urged him -once more to quit his native country, where, as he -himself observes, the religion in which he was educated -excluded him from all hope of advancement or -honours, in order to revisit those regions of the East -where his faith would be no bar to his ambition, and<span class="pageno" id="Page_235">235</span> -where commerce was not thought to degrade even -the majesty of kings.</p> - -<p class="c017">Having collected together the jewels, gems, and -curious clocks and watches which he had been commissioned -to purchase for the King of Persia, he repaired -to Leghorn, where he embarked with his mercantile -companion for Smyrna. Owing to the unskilfulness -of the mariners, the variableness of the -winds, and the badness of the weather, this short -voyage was not performed in less than three months, -during which the passengers endured all the privation -and misery which such a voyage could inflict. -From Smyrna he proceeded to Constantinople, where, -through the aid of M. de Nointel, the ambassador of -France, he was initiated in all the mysteries of diplomacy, -which he unveils in his travels with infinite -skill and <i>naïveté</i> for the amusement of his readers.</p> - -<p class="c017">In other respects his connexion with the French -ambassador was rather prejudicial than useful to -him; for M. de Nointel having conducted himself in -all his negotiations with the Turks in a puerile and -fluctuating manner, passing by turns from extreme -haughtiness to extreme cringing and servility, the -anger of the Porte was roused, and directed against -the whole French nation; and Chardin, when he became -desirous of departing, was denied a passport. -From this difficult and somewhat dangerous position -he was delivered by the ingenuity of a Greek, who -contrived to procure him a passage to Azoph, on the -Palus Mæotis, on board of a Turkish vessel then -about to set sail with the new commandant and fresh -troops which the Porte sent every year to that remote -fortress. The Black Sea, which receives its -appellation from the gloomy clouds and tempestuous -winds which hover over and vex its waters in almost -every season of the year, was now to be traversed; -and considering the unskilfulness and apathy of -Turkish sailors, who creep timidly along the shore, -and have little knowledge of the use of the compass,<span class="pageno" id="Page_236">236</span> -our traveller was not without his apprehensions. -After a voyage of eight days, however, they arrived -at Caffa, in the Crimea, where, by the help of the -Greek friend who had enabled him to laugh at the -sultan’s beard and embark without a passport, he -eluded the exorbitant demands of the custom-house, -and transported his merchandise on board another -vessel bound for Mingrelia.</p> - -<p class="c017">Setting sail from Caffa, where there was little to -be seen but stinking Tartars and caviare, they arrived -in twenty-four hours at Touzlah, or the Salt -Marshes, a vast sweep of low shore, alternately -covered by the waters of the sea, artificially introduced, -and a white saline crust, looking like a sheet -of snow from a distance. Here upwards of two hundred -ships are annually freighted with salt; and it was -for the purpose of taking on board a cargo of this -useful merchandise that the vessel in which Chardin -and his companion were embarked now touched at -the place. On landing, the village was found to consist -of about ten or twelve houses, with a small -mosque, and a considerable number of felt-covered -tents, which served for stables, kitchens, and dormitories -for the slaves. Salt was by no means the -only article of commerce obtained at this place. -Every morning fires were observed lighted along the -shore, as signals that the brigands of the country -had laid violent hands upon a number of their fellow-creatures, -and had them conveyed thither, chained -together like cattle, for sale. These fires being observed, -boats were immediately sent on shore; and -when they returned, crowds of women and children, -half-naked, or covered with rags and filth, but resplendent -with beauty, were hoisted on board, where -their wretched apparel was exchanged for clean neat -garments, and where, perhaps, for the first time in -their lives they tasted bread. The men and boys -were chained two and two every night; the women, -from whom no danger was apprehended, were permitted<span class="pageno" id="Page_237">237</span> -the free use of their limbs. These Circassians -did not fetch a great price. A Greek merchant, -whose cabin was contiguous to that of Chardin, -purchased for twelve crowns a woman of extraordinary -beauty, with an infant at the breast. What -chiefly surprised our traveller in the circumstances -of this affair was, the coolness and serenity with -which these honest people submitted to their fate. -Had not the women, much against their will, been -compelled to occupy themselves with needlework, -and the men with such little matters as they could -perform on board, they would have been perfectly -happy. Idleness was their <i>summum bonum</i>; and this -the most beautiful among the women knew they -were about to enjoy in the harems of Turkey.</p> - -<p class="c017">On arriving at Isgaour, in Mingrelia, the place -where the general market of the country is held, -Chardin naturally expected to find human dwellings, -with provisions, and such other necessaries as in -civilized countries are everywhere attainable for -money. In this hope he went on shore, accompanied -by the Greek merchant, who had hitherto been -in a manner his guardian angel; but on entering the -place, they indeed found two long rows of huts formed -of the branches of trees, where merchandise and provisions -had once been exposed for sale, but now -empty and deserted. In the vicinity of the place -neither house nor habitation appeared as far as the -eye could reach. Two or three peasants, however, -who flitted about like spectres among the deserted -huts, engaged to bring on the morrow a quantity of -that species of grain called <i>gom</i>, which is bruised, -boiled, and eaten instead of bread, together with -wine and other provisions. There being no alternative, -they were compelled to rely on the promises -of these men, as they were nearly in want of every -necessary of life; but their presents failing them, it -became necessary to dissemble with his servants, -who already began to murmur aloud and curse the<span class="pageno" id="Page_238">238</span> -persons by whose advice he had taken the route of -the Black Sea, relying for the future upon the bounty -of Providence. The reason why the market of Isgaour -was thus deserted was, that the Abcas, a -neighbouring people of savage character and barbarous -manners, having made an irruption into the -country, were now ravaging it with fire and sword, -while the peasantry and their lords were flying before -them in dismay, or plunging for refuge into the -deepest recesses of their forests. Ten days after -their arrival these savages passed along the shore -in search of plunder; and finding none in this celebrated -market, set the huts on fire and reduced them -to ashes.</p> - -<p class="c017">In this dilemma, Chardin had much difficulty in -determining what course to take. He had immediately -on landing applied for aid to the Catholic missionaries -of Colchis, the chief of whom promised in -reply to be with him by a certain day, but failed in -his engagement; and when after a second application -he repaired to the place of rendezvous, it was -less with the design of forwarding our traveller’s -views than of dissuading him from attempting the -journey at all. Perceiving, however, that his advice -could not be followed, he rendered the travellers -every service in his power with alacrity, but without -in the least concealing the magnitude of the danger -they were about to incur.</p> - -<p class="c017">It was now the beginning of October, and Chardin, -irritated at the numerous obstacles and hinderances -which had impeded his progress, was so extremely -impatient to be in Persia that no dangers appeared to -him so terrible as delay. He had very soon cause to -repent his impetuosity. The evils he had hitherto -endured dwindled to nothing when compared with -those which now rushed upon him like a torrent, and -threatened to swallow up in a moment his wealth, -his ambitious projects, and his life. Nevertheless, -with that unshrinking courage which his total ignorance<span class="pageno" id="Page_239">239</span> -of the future and the pressure of present evils -bestows upon man, he hastened to put his foot upon -the shores of Mingrelia; and embarking with all his -merchandise on board the felucca in which the monk -had arrived, set sail for Anarghia, where they next -day arrived. Here his followers made themselves -ample amends for the scarcity they had endured at -Isgaour; for poultry, wild pigeons, pork, goats’ flesh, -wine, and other provisions were abundant and cheap.</p> - -<p class="c017">After remaining nine days at Anarghia, they departed -on the 14th, two hours before day, and having -sailed about six miles up the river, disembarked -their merchandise and provisions, with which they -loaded eight small vehicles, and proceeded on their -journey by land. The report that a party of Europeans -were passing with incalculable riches through -the country was soon spread; and as few rich travellers -ever traversed Mingrelia, this rumour immediately -inflamed to the highest degree the cupidity -of the hungry prince and his feudatories, who forthwith -formed the design of appropriating these treasures -to themselves. They arrived, however, on the -evening of the same day at Sipias, the residence of -the missionaries, where they proposed to remain a -few days in order to prepare themselves by a little -repose for the fatigues which were to come, as well -as to deliberate with the monks respecting the -means of escaping from the rapacity of the rulers -of Mingrelia.</p> - -<p class="c017">Four days after his arrival, the princess, or queen, -as she termed herself, of Mingrelia, came to Sipias -to visit our traveller, attracted by the rumours of his -wealth, as vultures are attracted by the scent of a -carcass. Her majesty was followed by a train of -eight women and ten men, to all of whom a decent -suit of clothes and a tolerable beast to ride on would -have been a welcome present, for they were very -badly mounted and meanly clad. In order to ward -off, as far as possible, the dangerous reputation of<span class="pageno" id="Page_240">240</span> -being rich, which is elsewhere so much coveted, our -travellers endeavoured to pass for Capuchin friars, -and pretended that the baggage with which their -vehicles were loaded consisted entirely of books. -The princess believed neither of these stories. Being -informed that Chardin understood Turkish and -Persian, she tormented him, by means of a slave -who could speak the former language, with a thousand -questions, of which the greater number turned -upon the subject of love. After pushing these questions -beyond the verge of decency, to the great -amusement of her suite, who appeared to be more -delighted in proportion as her majesty became more -obscene, she suddenly turned to a still more embarrassing -topic—demanding to examine the effects of -our traveller, and the stores of the monks. They -all now trembled for their property. Whatever she -should have seen would have been lost. To allay -her cupidity, therefore, and at least put off the evil -day, the principal monk humbly informed her that -the usual present should be sent on the morrow, -accompanied by another from the travellers. With -this assurance she appeared to be satisfied, and departed.</p> - -<p class="c017">On the next day our traveller and two of the -monks were invited to dine with the princess, and -were of course careful not to present themselves -before her empty-handed, it being a crime in the -East for an inferior to come into the presence of his -superior without some gift, in token of dependence -and homage. Her highness of Mingrelia, who had -painted her face and adorned her person to the best -of her ability, in order to appear to advantage in the -eyes of the traveller, seemed to be highly gratified -with his present, which, though tasteful and elegant, -was of small value, the better to maintain a show of -poverty. Some ten or twelve ragged but merry-looking -wenches, and a crowd of half-naked ragamuffins, -constituted the court of this princess, her<span class="pageno" id="Page_241">241</span> -maids of honour having, as she assured the traveller, -taken refuge in a neighbouring fortress on account -of the war! The better to enjoy the pleasure of -tormenting M. Chardin, she caused him to sit near -her, and commenced her attack by observing, that -it was her will and pleasure that he should marry -one of her friends, and settle in the country, when -she promised to bestow on him houses, lands, slaves, -and subjects. From all he had heard and seen of -the women of Mingrelia, our traveller would have -felt less repugnance to marrying a vampire than -one of them, beautiful as they were; so that the -bare possibility of the thing made him shudder. He -was for the present delivered from the discussion -of this painful topic by the appearance of dinner, -during which the princess inflamed her naturally -ardent temperament by copious libations of wine, -which stifled whatever remains of shame might -have lingered in her soul, and impelled her to exhibit -all the importunity and effrontery of a courtesan.</p> - -<p class="c017">The menaces of this princess, who gave them -clearly to understand that she had determined upon -visiting the monastery, for the purpose of examining -their treasures, caused them to return dejected and -melancholy from the castle, the monks apprehending -new extortions and vexations, and Chardin the -loss of all he possessed. The remainder of the day -was passed in deliberating upon the present posture -of affairs, and it was at length resolved, that as soon -as it was night, pits should be dug, and the most -valuable portion of their merchandise buried in the -earth. Accordingly, the sun had no sooner set behind -the mountains, than they commenced operations, -first digging a pit five feet deep in the apartments -of one of the monks, where they buried a -large chest filled with watches and clocks set with -jewels. When this had been done, and the earth -smoothed over, and made to appear as before, they -repaired under cover of the darkness to the church,<span class="pageno" id="Page_242">242</span> -where the principal monk advised our traveller to -open the grave of one of the brotherhood, who had -been interred there some six years before, and deposite -among his ashes a small casket filled with the -most costly gems of the East, designed for the princesses -and great ladies of Persia. A secret presentiment -prevented Chardin from following this -advice, who selected in preference an obscure corner -of the church, where accordingly a pit was sunk, -and the casket carefully interred. Other costly -articles, as a sabre and poniard set with jewels, were -concealed in the roof of the monastery; and such -articles of great value as were small and portable -our travellers retained about their persons.</p> - -<p class="c017">Many days had not elapsed before they were convinced -that their fears were not without foundation. -It was now Sunday, and Chardin, in offering up his -prayers to God, according to custom, would not -presume, he says, to petition his Maker for freedom, -so persuaded was he that slavery was to be his fate; -he merely prayed for a mild master, and to be delivered -from a Mingrelian wife. While the classical -idea of Medea was haunting his imagination, and -disturbing his devotion, a person came running in, -exclaiming that two neighbouring chiefs, with a -band of followers, armed to the teeth, were knocking -at the outer gate, and demanding admittance. There -being no alternative, they were allowed to enter, -which they had no sooner done than they seized -and bound the travellers, commanded the monks to -retire, and threatened to put to death the first person -who should make the least stir or resistance. -The principal friar was terrified and fled; but the -rest stood firmly by their guests, particularly the -lay-brother, whom not even a naked sword pointed -at his throat could induce to abandon them. When -the bandits proceeded to bind their servants, one of -the latter, who had a large knife in his hand, endeavouring -to defend himself, was instantaneously<span class="pageno" id="Page_243">243</span> -struck to the earth with a lance, bound hand and -foot, and fastened to a tree. This being done, the -ruffians informed the travellers that they wished to -examine their effects. Chardin replied that it was -within their power; that they were but poor monks, -whose whole wealth consisted in books, papers, and -a few wretched garments, the whole of which, if -they would abstain from violence, should be shown -them. Upon this he was unbound, and commanded -to open the door of their apartment, where their -books, papers, and wardrobe were kept. Chardin’s -companion had sewn the most valuable of his jewels -in the collar of his coat; but our traveller himself -had made two small packets of his, which were -sealed, and put among his books, not daring to carry -them about him lest he should be assassinated, -stripped, or sold for a slave. In order to gain a moment -to withdraw these packets, he requested his -companion and the lay-brother to hold the chiefs in -conversation, by pretending to negotiate with them, -and offering them a small sum of money. The -stratagem succeeding for an instant, he darted upstairs, -their apartment being on the first floor, entered -the chamber, and locked the door. His design -was suspected, and the whole band of ruffians rushed -up after him; but the door being somewhat difficult -to be broken open, he had time to take out his -packets and conceal them in the roof of the house. -His companion, however, who was in the room -below, called out to him that he ought to be on his -guard, for that he was observed through the cracks -in the floor. Upon hearing this, and seeing that the -door was giving way, he became confused, and -scarcely knowing what he did, took down the jewels -out of the roof, thrust them into his pocket, and -opening the window of the apartment, jumped out -into the garden. Without noticing whether he was -watched or not, he threw the packets into a thicket, -and then hastened back to the room, now filled with<span class="pageno" id="Page_244">244</span> -robbers, some of whom were maltreating his companion, -while others were battering his coffers with -their spears or lances, in order to break them open.</p> - -<p class="c017">He now plucked up his courage, imagining that -the greater part of his wealth was out of their reach, -and bid them take heed of what they did; that he -was the envoy of the King of Persia; and that the -Prince of Georgia would take ample vengeance for -whatever violence might be offered to his person. -He then showed them his passport from the king. -One of the chiefs snatched it out of his hand, and -was about to tear it in pieces, saying that he neither -feared nor regarded any man upon earth; but the -other, awed by the royal seal and letters of gold, -restrained him. They now said, that if he would -open his coffers and allow them to examine his -effects, no violence should be offered him; but that -if he refused any longer, they would strike off his -head from his shoulders. He was still proceeding -to contest the point, when one of the soldiers, impatient -to proceed to business, drew his sword, and -aimed a blow at his head, which would have cleft it -in twain, had not the villain’s arm been instantaneously -arrested by the lay-brother. Perceiving the -kind of arguments they were disposed to employ, -he unlocked his chests, which in the twinkling of an -eye were rummaged to the bottom, while every -thing which appeared to possess any value was -taken away. Turning his eyes from this painful -scene towards the garden, he perceived two soldiers -searching among the bushes in the very spot where -he had thrown his jewels; and rushing towards -them, followed by one of the monks, they retired. -He then, without reflecting upon the extreme imprudence -of his conduct, began himself to search -about for the packets, but not being able to discover -them, he supposed the soldiers had found and carried -them off. As their value was little less than -ten thousand pounds, the loss fell upon him like a<span class="pageno" id="Page_245">245</span> -thunderbolt. Nevertheless, there was no time for -sorrowing. His companion and the lay-brother -were loudly calling him from the house. He therefore -tore himself away from the spot. In returning -towards the house, two soldiers fell upon him, -dragged him up into a corner, and after clearing his -pockets of all they contained, were about to bind -him and hurry him off; but after much resistance -and expostulation, they released him, and shortly -afterward the whole troop retired from the monastery.</p> - -<p class="c017">The robber chiefs and their followers had no -sooner departed, than Chardin again repaired to the -garden, and was sorrowfully prying about the thickets -where he had concealed his jewels, when a man -cast his arms about his neck, and threw him into -more violent terror than ever. He had no doubt it -was a Mingrelian, who was about to cut his throat. -The next moment, however, he recognised the voice -of his faithful Armenian valet, who, in accents broken -by sobs, and with eyes overflowing with tears, exclaimed, -“Ah, sir, we are ruined!” Chardin, strongly -moved by this proof of his affection, bade him restrain -his tears. “But, sir,” said he, “have you -searched the place carefully?”—“So carefully,” replied -the traveller, “that I am convinced all further -search would be so much labour lost.” This did not -satisfy the Armenian. He wished to be informed -exactly respecting the spot where the traveller had -thrown the jewels; the manner in which he had -cast them into the thicket; and the way in which -he had sought for them. To oblige him, Chardin -did what he desired, but was so thoroughly persuaded -that all further search was useless, that he -refused to remain upon the spot, and went away, -overwhelmed with grief and vexation. How long -he remained in this state of stupefaction he could -not tell; he was roused from it, however, by the -presence of the Armenian, who, approaching him in<span class="pageno" id="Page_246">246</span> -the dark, for it was now night, once more threw -himself about his neck, and thrust the two packets -of jewels into his bosom.</p> - -<p class="c017">By the advice of the monks, Chardin next morning -proceeded to the prince’s castle, to relate his -griefs, and demand justice; but all he gained by this -expedition was, the thorough conviction that his -highness was as arrant a thief as his subjects, and -had shared the fruits of the robbery, which was -apparently undertaken by his orders. This discovery, -however, was important; it opened his eyes -to the true character of the country; and taught him -that in Mingrelia, at least, the man who put his trust -in princes was a fool. In the course of two days, -to give the finishing stroke to their misfortune, they -learned that the Turks, irritated at the insolence and -rapacity of its chief, had made an irruption into the -country, were laying it waste with fire and sword -on all sides, and had already approached to within -a short distance of Sipias. At midnight, two cannon-shots -from the neighbouring fortress of Ruchs -announced the approach of the enemy, and the peasants, -with their wives, children, and flocks, immediately -took to flight, and before dawn the whole -population was in motion. Our traveller, whose -companion, excited and irritated by the preceding -untoward events, was now ill, fled among the rest, -leaving behind him his books, papers, and mathematical -instruments, which he hoped the ignorance -of both Turks and Mingrelians would protect. His -buried wealth he also left where it was, and, considering -the complexion of events, regarded as much -safer than what he carried with him.</p> - -<p class="c017">The sight of this whole people, suddenly thrown -into rapid flight, was sufficiently melancholy. The -women bore along their children in their arms, the -men carried the baggage. Some drove along their -cattle before them, while others yoked themselves -like oxen to the carts in which their furniture was<span class="pageno" id="Page_247">247</span> -loaded, and being unable long to continue their extraordinary -exertions, sunk down exhausted and -dying on the road. Here and there, along the wayside, -groups of old people, or very young children, -implored the aid of those whose strength had not -yet failed, with the most heart-rending cries and -groans. At another moment the spectacle would -have caused the most painful emotions, but it was -now beheld with the utmost indifference. The idea -of danger having swallowed up every other, they -hurried by these miserable deserted creatures without -pity or commiseration.</p> - -<p class="c017">The castle in which they now took refuge belonged -to a chief who had been a double renegade, having -deserted Christianity for Mohammedanism, and Mohammedanism -for Christianity; notwithstanding -which, he was supposed to be a less atrocious brigand -than his neighbours. He received the fugitives -politely, and assigned them for their lodgings an -apartment where they were somewhat less exposed -to the weather than in the woods, though the rain -found its way in on all sides. The castle, however, -was already crowded with people, eight hundred -persons, of whom the majority were women and -children, having taken refuge in it, and others still -more destitute and miserable arriving every moment.</p> - -<p class="c017">Next day one of the missionaries returned to the -monastery, for the purpose of bringing away, if possible, -such plate and provisions as had been left behind: -but he found that place in possession of the -Turks, who beat him severely, and carried away -whatever was portable in the house. The night -following, a Mingrelian chief, more barbarous and -destructive than the Turks, sacked the monastery a -third time, and having no torches or flambeaux to -light him in his depredations, made a bonfire of our -traveller’s books and papers, and reduced the whole -to ashes. The chief in whose castle they had taken<span class="pageno" id="Page_248">248</span> -refuge, being summoned to surrender by the Turkish -pasha, and perceiving the absurdity of pretending to -measure his strength with that of the enemy, consented -to take the oath of allegiance to the Porte, -and, what was equally important, to make a handsome -present to its agent. This present was to -consist of three hundred crowns in money, and -twenty young slaves, which the wretch determined -to levy from the unfortunate creatures who had -thrown themselves upon his protection, confiding in -the sacred laws of hospitality. Among Mingrelians, -however, there is nothing sacred. Every family -possessing four children was compelled to give up -one of the number to be transported into Turkey as a -slave; but it was found necessary to tear away the -children from the arms of their mothers, who grasped -them convulsively, pressed them to their bosoms, -and yielded only to irresistible violence. Instead -of twenty children, the chief forced away twenty-five, -selling the additional number for his own profit; -and instead of three hundred crowns, he extorted -five hundred. Providence, however, compelled him -and his family to devour their share of grief. The -pasha peremptorily demanded one of his sons as a -hostage, and as he and his wives beheld the youngest -of their boys depart into endless captivity for the -hostage, delivered up to the Porte never to return, -they had an opportunity of tasting a sample of the -bitterness they had administered to others. Chardin, -who had neither wife nor children to lose, was -taxed at twenty crowns.</p> - -<p class="c017">Perceiving that the state of the country verged -more and more every day upon utter anarchy and -confusion, our traveller came to the resolution of departing -at all hazards for Georgia, to demand its -prince’s aid in withdrawing his property from Mingrelia. -His companion remained to watch over it -in his absence. Not being able to procure either -guards or guides from among the natives, for with<span class="pageno" id="Page_249">249</span> -all their misery there is no people who fear death or -danger more than the Mingrelians, he was constrained -to set out with a single domestic, who, as -fate would have it, was the most consummate scoundrel -in his service. On the way to Anarghia, where -he was once more to embark on the Black Sea, he -learned that the church in which he had deposited -his wealth had been sacked and stripped to the -bare walls, that the very graves had been opened, -and every vestige of property removed. Here was -a new source of anguish. It was now a question -whether he was a rich or a poor man. He paused -in his journey—sent off an express to his companion—the -ruins of the church were visited—and their -money found to be untouched. This circumstance, -he informs us, marvellously exalted his courage, and -he proceeded with fresh vigour on his new enterprise.</p> - -<p class="c017">Embarking in a felucca at Anarghia, in company -with several Turks and their slaves, he sailed along -the south-eastern coast of the Black Sea, passed by -the mouth of the Phasis, the site of Sebaste, and -many other spots redolent of classical fame, and in -three days arrived at Gonia in the country of the -Lazii. Here the character of his valet began to -develop itself. Repairing as soon as they had landed -to the custom-house, leaving his master to manage -for himself, the vagabond imparted to the authorities -his conjectures respecting the real condition of the -traveller, and thus at once awakened their vigilance -and cupidity. His effects were in consequence -rigorously examined, and the dues exacted from him, -which were heavy, perhaps extortionate, no doubt -enabled the custom-house officers to reward the -treachery of his servant. When these matters had -been settled, the principal officer, who, after all, was -a man of humane disposition and tolerably just -principles, made Chardin an offer of an apartment -in his house, where he invited, nay, even entreated -him to pass the night; but having already suffered<span class="pageno" id="Page_250">250</span> -from what he regarded as his rapacity, the traveller -dreaded some new act of extortion, and obstinately -refused his hospitality. He very soon repented this -false step. It being nearly night, he proceeded, on -quitting the custom-house, to the inn, or rather -hovel, whither his valet had directed his effects to -be conveyed after examination. Here he was sitting -down, fatigued and dejected, disgusted with dirt and -stench, and listening to the condolences of his Turkish -travelling companions, when a janizary from the -lieutenant of the commandant, the chief being absent, -entered in search of his valet, with whom that important -personage was desirous of holding a conference. -In another hour the presence of the traveller -himself was required; and when, in obedience -to authority, he repaired to the fort, he found both -the lieutenant and his own graceless servant drunk, -and began to perceive that a plan for pillaging him -had been concerted. The lieutenant now informed -him, with as much gravity as the prodigious quantity -of wine he had taken would permit, that all -ecclesiastics who passed through Gonia were accustomed -to pay two hundred ducats to his superior; -and that he, therefore, as a member of that profession, -for Chardin had thought proper to pass for a -Capuchin, must deposite that sum in his hands for -the commandant. It was in vain that the traveller -now denied all claim to the clerical character, and -acknowledged himself to be a merchant; merchant -or priest, it was all the same to the lieutenant; what -he wanted was the two hundred ducats, which, after -much altercation, were reduced to one hundred; but -this M. Chardin was compelled to pay, or submit to -the punishment of the <i>carcan</i>, a species of portable -stocks, through which the offender’s head is put -instead of his feet. The worst feature, however, -of the whole affair was, that the drunken officer took -it into his head to cause the present thus extorted -to appear to be a voluntary gift; and again having<span class="pageno" id="Page_251">251</span> -recourse to menaces, which he was prepared to execute -upon the spot, he forced the traveller to make -oath on the Gospel that he bestowed the money -freely, and would disclose the real nature of the -transaction to no one. This being done, he was -allowed to retire.</p> - -<p class="c017">Next morning the custom-house officer, who, in -inviting him to pass the night in his house, had intended -to protect him from this species of robbery, -furnished him with a guide, and two men to carry -his luggage; and with this escort, in addition to his -hopeful valet, he departed for Akalziké. The road -at first lay through a plain, but at length began to -ascend, and pierce the defiles of the Caucasus; and as -he climbed higher and higher among the precipitous -and dizzy heights of this sublime mountain, among -whose many peaks the ark is supposed to have first -taken ground after the deluge, and from whence the -stream of population flowed forth and overspread the -world with a flood of life, he felt the cares, solicitudes, -and sorrows which for many months had fed, as it -were, upon his heart, take wing, and a healing and -invigorating influence spread an exquisite calm over -his sensations. This singular tranquillity, which he -experienced on first reaching these lofty regions, still -continued as he advanced, notwithstanding the rain, -the hail, and the snow which were poured on him by -the tempest as he passed; and in such a frame of -mind he attained the opposite side of the mountain, -upon whose folding slopes he beheld numerous -villages, castles, and churches, picturesquely scattered -about, and at length descended into a broad -and beautiful valley, cultivated with the greatest -care, and fertilized by the waters of the Kur.</p> - -<p class="c017">Arriving without accident or adventure at Akalziké, -and remaining there four days to repose himself, he -departed for Georgia. The route now presented -nothing extraordinary. A castle or a ruin, picturesquely -perched upon the crest of a rocky eminence,<span class="pageno" id="Page_252">252</span> -a church, or a village, or a forest—such were the objects -which met the eye. He at length reached the -Capuchin convent in the vicinity of Gory, whence, -after mature consultation with the monks, who, for -strangers, entered with extraordinary earnestness -into his views, he set out, accompanied by a lay-brother -of the order, for Tiflis, partly with the design -of demanding aid from the Prince of Georgia, and -partly to obtain the advice of the principal missionary -respecting the steps he ought to take in order to deliver -his partner and property from the avaricious -hands of the Mingrelians. The opinion of the monks -was, that since the Prince of Georgia entertained -rather loose notions respecting his allegiance to the -King of Persia, whose servant Chardin was to be -considered, and, like all petty potentates, was possessed -by extreme cupidity and laxity of principle, -there would in all probability be as much danger in -being aided by him, as in depending on the uncertain -will of fortune and his own prudence and ingenuity; -that he ought to return secretly to Mingrelia; and -that, for the greater chance of success, he should take -with him one of the brotherhood, who was deeply -versed in the small politics of those countries; and -a native dependent on the monastery, who had been -a thousand times in Mingrelia.</p> - -<p class="c017">With these able coadjutors he returned once more -into the country of Media, whence, after incredible -difficulties and very considerable danger, he succeeded -in rescuing his property. On his return to -Tiflis he calculated, with the aid of his companion, -the losses they had sustained during the journey -from Constantinople to Georgia, and found that, by -great good fortune, it did not exceed <i>one per cent.</i> -upon the merchandise they had succeeded in conveying -safe and entire to that city. He now tasted -of that delight which springs up in the mind after -dangers escaped and difficulties overcome; and commenced -the pleasing task of studying the manners<span class="pageno" id="Page_253">253</span> -of a people among whom, however impure and depraved -might be their morals, a stranger had little -to fear. The beauty of the women, he found, was -so irresistible in Georgia, and their manners so -graceful and bewitching, that it was impossible to -behold them without love; but the depravity of their -morals, and the blackness and perfidy of their souls, -exceeded, if possible, the perfection of their forms, -and rendered them as odious to the mind as they -were pleasing to the eye.</p> - -<p class="c017">After remaining a short time at Tiflis, and going -through the usual routine of giving and receiving -presents, &c., he departed for Armenia. Being now -accompanied by a mehmandar, or guest-guard, he -proceeded without obstacle or extortion; this officer -taking upon himself the care of adjusting matters -with the custom-houses, and of providing horses, -carriage, and provisions on the way. Though in so -low a latitude, the whole face of the country was -still covered with snow in March, and it was with -much difficulty that they proceeded over the narrow -pathways made by the few travellers who were compelled -to traverse the country at such a season. To -guard against the reflection of the sun’s rays from -the snow, which weakened the sight, and caused a -burning heat in the face, our traveller wore a handkerchief -of green or black silk tied across the eyes, -after the manner of the inhabitants, though this -merely diminished, but could not altogether prevent -the evil. Whenever they met any travellers moving -in a contrary direction, they had to dispute who -should yield up the narrow path, upon which two -horses could not pass each other, and go out into -the soft snow, in which the animals instantly sunk up -to their bellies; but in the end every one yielded the -preference to the mehmandar. Creeping along in -this manner through the cold, they arrived at Eryvan -on the 7th of March.</p> - -<p class="c017">Being now in a country where civilization had<span class="pageno" id="Page_254">254</span> -made some progress, Chardin took lodgings in a -caravansary, and was provided abundantly with the -necessaries of life by the bounty of the governor, -who, no doubt, expected that his civilities would be -remembered when he should come in the sequel to -bargain for a portion of the traveller’s jewels. In -the East it is an established rule that the natives -shall always take advantage of a stranger, sometimes -by force, at other times by cunning, but invariably -in some way or another. In Mingrelia our traveller -had to guard against force and violence; here against -wheedling, deceit, flattery, double-dealing, hypocrisy, -and meanness. In the former case, however, being -weak, it was necessary to evade or succumb; but -in the present, since ingenuity was the weapon on -both sides, there were more chances of success, -though it often appeared that plain honest good -sense is not always a match for practised cunning. -In the intervals of business the time was passed in -parties, dinners, and visits, which at least furnished -opportunities of studying the manners of the people.</p> - -<p class="c017">Perceiving that the time of his departure was -drawing nigh, the governor came to the point at -which he had been steadily aiming all the while, -under cover of his hospitality and caresses, which -were put forward as so many stalking-horses, to -enable him to bring down his game with greater -certainty. Sending for Chardin to the palace, he -proceeded warily and stealthily to business, occasionally -shaking the dust of compliments and flattery -in the traveller’s eyes as he went along. He first -lamented the actual state of Persia, in which, reduced -by bad government and the malignant inclemency -of the seasons to a state bordering upon famine -and anarchy, there was of course little or no demand -for expensive articles of luxury; besides, even if -public affairs had been flourishing, and the royal -resources abundant, the present king had no taste -for jewelry; and that, therefore, there was no hope<span class="pageno" id="Page_255">255</span> -of disposing of costly precious stones at the court -of Ispahan. From this preliminary discourse, which -was meant to diminish in the traveller’s eyes the -value of his merchandise, though in reality the picture -was correct, the governor passed at once to the -genuine object of his oration, and made an offer to -purchase a part of the jewels. His conduct on this -occasion was a masterpiece of mercantile skill, and -he succeeded, by holding out the hope of more important -purchases in the sequel, in getting every -thing he really intended to buy at a very cheap rate. -When his object was gained, he closed the negotiation -in the coolest manner in the world, by returning -the large quantity of jewels which he had caused to -be sent to his palace, as if he had intended to bargain -for them all; and the traveller now perceived that -the wily Persian had made a dupe of him. As all -manifestations of discontent, however, would have -been altogether useless, he affected to be extremely -well pleased at his bad luck, and retired to his -caravansary, cursing all the way the talents and -aptitude of the governor of Eryvan for business and -cheating.</p> - -<p class="c017">On the 8th of April he departed from the capital -of Armenia, and travelling for several days through -level and fertile plains, interspersed with churches -and villages, arrived at Nacchivan, a city formerly -celebrated, and of great antiquity, but now in ruins. -From hence he proceeded, etymologizing and making -researches as he moved along, towards Tabriz, -where he arrived on the 17th. At this city, then the -second in Persia in rank, riches, and population, he -took up his quarters at the Capuchin convent, where -he was visited by several of the nobles of the place, -on account of his jewelry, the fame of which flew -before him on the road, and like a pioneer smoothed -and laid level his passage into Persia. In proceeding -southward from Tabriz he had to traverse the -plains of Aderbijān, the ancient Media, which being<span class="pageno" id="Page_256">256</span> -covered at this season of the year by tribes of -Koords, Saraneshins, and Turcomans, all striking -their tents, and putting themselves in motion for -their summer emigration to the mountains, could -not be crossed by a stranger without considerable -danger. He was therefore counselled to defer his -departure for a few days, when he would have the -advantage of travelling in the company of a Persian -nobleman, whose presence would be a sufficient protection. -He adopted this advice, and in less than a -week set out under the safeguard of his noble escort, -and crossed those rich and beautiful plains, which -afford the best pasturage in the world, and where, -accordingly, the ancient kings of Media kept their -prodigious studs, which sometimes consisted of fifty -thousand horses. The ancients relate, that the -horses of Nysa, which must be sought for in these -plains, were all cream-coloured; but the nobleman -who accompanied Chardin had never read or heard -of any part of Persia where horses of that colour -were produced.</p> - -<p class="c017">In his journey through Media he saw on the side -of the road circles of huge stones, like those of -Stonehenge, and the Dolmens of Normandy and -Brittany, which, according to the traditions of the -Persians, were placed there by the Kaous, or giants, -who formerly held possession of those regions. The -same superstitions, the same fables, the same wild -belief in the enormous strength and stature of past -generations, prevail, we see, throughout the world, -because the desires, faculties, and passions of the -mind are everywhere the same.</p> - -<p class="c017">It was now June, and instead of disputing with -those they met on the road the possession of a narrow -snow-track, they were compelled to travel by -night to avoid the scorching heat of the sun. They -usually set out about two hours before sunset, and -when day had entirely disappeared, the stars, which -in the clear blue atmosphere of Persia yield a strong<span class="pageno" id="Page_257">257</span> -brilliant light, agreeably supplied its place, and -enabled them to proceed from caravansary to caravansary -with facility. At every step historical associations -crowded upon the traveller’s mind. The -dust which was thrown up into a cloud by the hoof -of his camel, and the stones over which he stumbled -in the darkness, were the dust and the wrecks of -heroes and mighty cities, crumbled by time, and -whirled about by the breath of oblivion. Cyrus and -Alexander, khalifs, khans, and sultans, had fought, -conquered, or perished on those plains. Vast cities -had risen, flourished, and vanished like a dream. A -few days before his arrival at Kom he passed at a -little distance the ruins of Rhe, a city scarcely less -vast in its dimensions, or less magnificent or populous -than Babylon, but now deserted, and become -so unhealthy in consequence, that, according to a -Persian poet, the very angel of death retired from -it on account of the badness of the air.</p> - -<p class="c017">On his arrival at Koms, after escaping from the -storms of the Black Sea and the Mingrelians, Chardin -was nearly killed by the kick of a horse. He -escaped, however, and set out two days afterward -for Kashan, traversing fine fertile plains, covered -with villages. In this city, celebrated for its burning -climate and scorpions, he merely remained one day -to allow his horses a little repose, and then departed -and pushed on to Ispahan, where he arrived on the -23d of June.</p> - -<p class="c017">Chardin was faithful to the Capuchin friars; for -whenever he passed through or visited a city in -which they possessed a convent, it was the first -place to which he repaired, and the last he quitted. -On the present occasion he took up his residence, -as usual, with these monks, at whose convent he -found on his arrival a bag of letters addressed to him -from various parts of the world: before he could -read the half of which, many of his Persian and -Armenian friends, whom he had known during his<span class="pageno" id="Page_258">258</span> -former residence, and all the Europeans of the city, -came to welcome him on his return to Ispahan. -From these he learned that the court, which had -undergone innumerable changes during his absence, -the greater number of those great men who had distinguished -themselves, or held any offices of trust under -the late king, being either dead or in disgrace, was -now in the utmost confusion, the persons who exercised -most influence in it being a set of young noblemen -without virtue, talents, or experience. And -what was still worse for Chardin, though not for -Persia, it was secretly whispered about that Sheïkh -Ali Khan, formerly prime minister, but now in disgrace, -was about to be restored to favour; in which -case our traveller anticipated great losses, as this -virtuous and inflexible man, whose great talents had -always been employed in the service of his country, -was an enemy to all lavish expenditure, and regarded -jewels and other costly toys as mere dross, unworthy -the attention of a sovereign prince.</p> - -<p class="c017">Chardin perceived, therefore, that he had not a -moment to lose, it being of the highest importance -that his business with the king should be transacted -before Sheïkh Ali Khan should again be prime vizier; -but by whom he was to be introduced at court was -the question. The persons to whom he applied in -the first instance, at the same time that they willingly -consented to use their best efforts in his -favour, and counselled him not to despair, yet gave -so sombre a picture of the state of the court, and -threw out so many insinuations, indicating their -belief that the future would be still more unpropitious -than the present, that they succeeded in casting -a damp over his energies, and in dissipating or at -least blighting his hopes. Nevertheless, something -was to be done, and that quickly; and he determined, -that whatever might be the result, he would at all -events not fail through inattention or indolence.</p> - -<p class="c017">While Chardin was labouring to put those springs<span class="pageno" id="Page_259">259</span> -in motion, the harmonious action of which was to -produce the fulfilment of his hopes, Sheïkh Ali -Khan suddenly entered into office. This event was -brought about in a strange manner. The king, during -one of those violent fits of intoxication to which -he was liable, and during which he acted more like -a wild beast than a man, had commanded the right -hand of a musician who was playing before him to -be struck off, and immediately fell asleep. The -person to whom the barbarous order was given, -imagining that all recollection of the matter would -pass away with the fumes of sleep, ventured to disobey; -but the king awaking, and finding the musician, -whom he expected to find mutilated and bleeding, -still touching the instrument, became so enraged, -that he gave orders for inflicting the same punishment -upon the disobedient favourite and the musician; -and finding that those around him still hesitated -to execute his brutal commands, his madness -rose to so ungovernable a pitch that he would probably -have had the arms and legs of all the court cut -off, had not Sheïkh Ali Khan, who fortunately happened -to be present, thrown himself at his feet, and -implored him to pardon the offenders. The tyrant, -now beginning to cool a little, replied, “You are a -bold man, to expect that I shall grant your request, -while you constantly refuse to resume, at my most -earnest entreaties, the office of prime minister!”—“Sire,” -replied Ali, “I am your slave, and will do -whatever your majesty shall command.” The king -was pacified, the culprits pardoned, and next morning -Sheïkh Ali Khan reassumed the government of -Persia.</p> - -<p class="c017">The event dreaded by our traveller had now arrived, -and therefore the aspect of affairs was -changed. Nevertheless, not many days after this -event, he received an intimation from one of his -court friends, that is, persons purchased over by -presents, that the nazir, or chief intendant of the<span class="pageno" id="Page_260">260</span> -king’s household, having been informed of his arrival, -was desirous of seeing him, and had warmly -expressed his inclination to serve him with the -shah. Chardin, who understood from what motives -courtiers usually perform services, laid but small -stress upon his promises, but still hastened to present -himself at his levee, with a list of all the articles -of jewelry he had brought with him from -Europe, which the nazir immediately ordered to be -sent to him for the inspection of the king. A few -days afterward he was introduced to the terrible -grand vizier, Sheïkh Ali Khan himself, who, from -the mild and polished manner in which he received -our traveller, appeared extremely different from the -portraits which the courtiers and common fame -had drawn of him.</p> - -<p class="c017">His whole fortune being now at stake, and depending -in a great measure upon the disposition of -the nazir and the conduct of the shah, Chardin was -unavoidably agitated by very painful and powerful -feelings, when he was suddenly summoned to repair -to the intendant’s palace, where the principal jewellers -of the city, Mohammedan, Armenian, and -Hindoo, had been assembled to pronounce upon the -real value of the various articles he had offered to -the king. He had not long entered before the -nazir ordered the whole of his jewels to be brought -forth, those which his majesty intended to purchase -being set apart in a large golden bowl of Chinese -workmanship. Chardin, observing that notwithstanding -the whole had been purchased or made -by order of the late king, not a fourth part had been -selected by his present majesty, felt as if he had -been stricken by a thunderbolt, and became pale -and rooted, as it were, to the spot. The nazir, -though a selfish and rapacious man, was touched by -his appearance, and leaning his head towards him, -observed, in a low voice, “You are vexed that the -king should have selected so small a portion of your<span class="pageno" id="Page_261">261</span> -jewels. I protest to you that I have taken more -pains than I ought to induce him to purchase the -whole, or at least the half of them; but I have not -been able to succeed, because the larger articles, -such as the sabre, the poniard, and the mirror, are -not made in the fashion which prevails in this country. -But keep up your spirits; you will still dispose -of them, if it please God.” The traveller, who -felt doubly vexed that his chagrin had been perceived, -made an effort to recover his composure, -but could not so completely succeed but that the -shadow, as it were, of his emotion still remained -upon his countenance.</p> - -<p class="c017">However, pleased or displeased, it was necessary -to proceed to business. The shah’s principal jeweller -now placed before him the golden bowl containing -the articles selected by his majesty, and -beginning with the smaller pieces, asked the price -of them in a whisper; and then caused them to be -estimated by the other jewellers present, beginning -with the Mohammedans, and then passing on to the -Armenians and Hindoos. The merchants of Persia, -when conducting any bargain before company, never -make use of any words in stating the price to each -other; they make themselves understood with their -fingers, their hands meeting under a corner of their -robe, or a thick handkerchief, so that their movements -may be concealed. To close the hand of the -person with whom business is thus transacted -means <i>a thousand</i>; to take one finger of the open -hand, <i>a hundred</i>; to bend the finger in the middle, -<i>fifty</i>; and so on. This mode of bargaining is in -use throughout the East, and more particularly in -India, where no other is employed.</p> - -<p class="c017">The value of the jewels being thus estimated, the -appraisers were dismissed, and the nazir, coming to -treat tête-à-tête with Chardin, succeeded so completely -in throwing a mist over his imagination, by -pretending to take a deep interest in his welfare,<span class="pageno" id="Page_262">262</span> -that he drew him into a snare, and in the course of -the negotiation, which lasted long, and was conducted -with infinite cunning on the part of the -Persian, caused him to lose a large portion of the -fruits of his courage and enterprise. Other negotiations -with various individuals followed, and in -the end Chardin succeeded in disposing of the whole -of his jewels.</p> - -<p class="c017">These transactions closed with the year 1673. -In the beginning of the following, which was passed -in a devotional manner among the Protestants of -Ispahan, the traveller began to feel his locomotive -propensities revive; and an ambassador from Balkh, -then in the capital, happening to pay him a visit, so -wrought upon his imagination by his description of -his wild country, and gave him so many pressing -invitations to accompany him on his return, that, -had it not been for the counter-persuasion of friends, -Chardin would undoubtedly have extended his travels -to Tartary. This idea being relinquished, however, -he departed for the shores of the Persian Gulf, -a journey of some kind or other being necessary to -keep up the activity of both body and mind.</p> - -<p class="c017">He accordingly departed from Ispahan in the -beginning of February, all the Europeans in the city -accompanying him as far as Bagh Koolloo, where -they ate a farewell dinner together. He then proceeded -on his journey, and in eleven days arrived -at the ruins of Persepolis, which he had twice -before visited, in order once more to compare his -ideas with the realities, and complete his description -of this celebrated spot. These magnificent ruins -are situated in one of the finest plains in the world; -and as you enter this plain from the north through -narrow gayas or between conical hills of vast height -and singular shape, you behold them standing in -front of a lofty ridge of mountains, which sweep -round in the form of a half-moon, flanking them on -both sides with its mighty horns. On two of these<span class="pageno" id="Page_263">263</span> -lofty eminences which protected the approaches to -the city, and which, when Persepolis was in all its -glory, so long resisted the fierce, impatient attacks -of Alexander, the ruins of ancient forts still subsisted -when Chardin was there; but, after having -travelled so far, principally for the purpose of examining -the ruins scattered around, he found the -hills too steep and lofty, and refused to ascend -them!</p> - -<p class="c017">Having occupied several days in contemplating -the enormous ruins of temples and palaces existing -on the plain, our traveller descended into what -is called the Subterranean Temple; that is, a labyrinth -of canals or passages, hewn out in the solid -rock, turning, winding, and crossing each other in a -thousand places, and extending to an unknown distance -beneath the bases of the mountains. The -entrances and the exits of these dismal vaults are -unknown; but travellers and other curious persons -find their way in through rents made by time or by -earthquakes in the rock. Lighted candles, which -burned with difficulty in the heavy, humid air, were -placed at the distance of every fifty yards, as Chardin -and his companions advanced, particularly at -those points where numerous passages met, and -where, should a wrong path be taken, they might -have lost themselves for ever. Here and there they -observed heaps of bones or horns of animals; the -damp trickled down the sides of the rocks; the -bottom of the passages was moist and cold; respiration -grew more and more difficult every step; -they became giddy; an unaccountable horror seized -upon their minds; the attendant first, and then the -traveller himself, experienced a kind of panic terror; -and fearing that, should they much longer continue -to advance, they might never be able to return, they -hastened back towards the fissures through which -they had entered; and without having discovered -any thing but vaults which appeared to have no end,<span class="pageno" id="Page_264">264</span> -they emerged into daylight, like Æneas and his -companion from the mouth of hell.</p> - -<p class="c017">Departing from the ruins of Persepolis on the -19th of February, he next day arrived at Shiraz, -where he amused himself for three days in contemplating -the waters of the Roknebad and the bowers -of Mosellay. In proceeding from this city to Bander-Abassi, -on the Persian Gulf, he had to pass over -Mount Jarron by the most difficult and dangerous -road in all Persia. At every step the travellers -found themselves suspended, as it were, over tremendous -precipices, divided from the abyss by a low -wall of loose stones, which every moment seemed -ready to roll of their own accord into the depths -below. The narrow road was blocked up at short -intervals by large fragments of rock, between which -it was necessary to squeeze themselves with much -pains and caution. However, they passed the mountain -without accident, and on the 12th of March -arrived at Bander-Abassi.</p> - -<p class="c017">This celebrated port, from which insufferable heat -and a pestilential atmosphere banish the whole -population during summer, is at all times excessively -insalubrious, all strangers who settle there -dying in the course of a few years, and the inhabitants -themselves being already old at thirty. The -few persons who remain to keep guard over the -city during summer, at the risk of their lives, are -relieved every ten days; during which they suffer -sufficiently from the heat, the deluges of rain, and -the black and furious tempests which plough up -the waters of the gulf, and blow with irresistible -fury along the coast.</p> - -<p class="c017">Though the eve of the season of death was drawing -near, Chardin found the inhabitants of Bander -in a gay humour, feasting, drinking, and elevating -their sentiments and rejoicing their hearts with the -heroic songs of Firdoosi. Into these amusements -our traveller entered with all his heart—the time<span class="pageno" id="Page_265">265</span> -flew by rapidly—the advent of fever and death was -come—and the ship which he expected from Surat -had not yet arrived. Talents and experience are -not always accompanied by prudence. Chardin -saw the whole population deserting the city; yet -he lingered, detained by the <i>auri sacra fames</i>, until -far in the month of May, and until, in fact, the seeds -of a malignant fever had been sown in his constitution. -Those uneasy sensations which are generally -the forerunners of sickness and death, united -with the representations of the physicians, at length -induced him to quit the place, his attendants being -already ill; but he had not proceeded many leagues -before a giddiness in the head and general debility -of body informed him that he had remained somewhat -too long at Bander.</p> - -<p class="c017">Arriving on the 24th of May at Tangnedelan, a -place where there was not a single human being to -be found, he became delirious, and at last fell into -a fit from which his attendants had much difficulty -in recovering him. There happened, by great good -fortune, to be a French surgeon in his suite. This -surgeon, who was an able man in his profession, not -only took all possible care of our traveller during -his moments of delirium, but, what was of infinitely -greater importance, had the good sense to hurry -his departure from those deserted and fatal regions, -procuring from the neighbouring villages eight men, -who carried him in a litter made with canes and -branches of trees to Lâr. As soon as they had -reached this city, Chardin sent for the governor’s -physician, who, understanding that he was the -shah’s merchant, came to him immediately. Our -traveller was by this time so weak that he could -scarcely describe his feelings; and, as well as the -French surgeon, began to believe that his life was -near its close. The Persian Esculapius, however, -who discovered the nature of the disorder at a -glance, assured him it was a mere trifle; that he<span class="pageno" id="Page_266">266</span> -needed by no means be uneasy; and that, in fact, -he would, with God’s blessing, restore him to health -that very day, nay, in a very few hours.</p> - -<p class="c017">This dashing mode of dealing with disorders produced -an excellent effect upon the traveller’s mind. -The hakīm seemed to hold Death by the beard, to -keep him in his toils, to curb him, or let him have -his way at pleasure. Chardin’s whole frame trembled -with joy. He took the physician by the hand, -squeezed it as well as his strength would permit, and -looked up in his face as he would have looked upon -his guardian-angel. The hakīm, to whom these -things were no novelties, proceeded, without question -or remark, to prescribe for his patient; and -having done this, he was about to retire, when the -traveller cried out, “Sir, I am consumed with heat!”—“I -know that very well,” replied the hakīm; “but -you shall be cooled presently!” and with the word -both he and his apothecary disappeared.</p> - -<p class="c017">About nine o’clock the young apothecary returned, -bringing with him a basketful of drugs, enough, to -all appearance, to kill or cure a regiment of patients. -“For whom,” inquired Chardin, “are all those medicines?”—“For -you,” replied the young man; “these -are what the hakīm has ordered you to take this -morning, and you must swallow them as quickly as -possible.” Fevers make men docile. The traveller -immediately began to do as he was commanded; but -when he came to one of the large bottles, his -“gorge,” as Shakspeare phrases it, began to rise at -it, and he observed that it would be impossible to -swallow that at a draught. “Never mind,” said the -young man, “you can take it at several draughts.” -Obedience followed, and the basketful of physic -disappeared. “You will presently,” observed the -apothecary, “experience the most furious thirst; and -I would willingly give you ices to take, but there is -neither ice nor snow in the city except at the governor’s.” -As his thirst would not allow him to be<span class="pageno" id="Page_267">267</span> -punctilious, Chardin at once applied to the governor; -and succeeding in his enterprise, quenched his burning -thirst with the most delicious drinks in the -world.</p> - -<p class="c017">To render him as cool as possible his bed was -spread upon the floor in an open parlour, and so frequently -sprinkled with water that the room might -almost be said to be flooded; but the fever still continuing, -the bed was exchanged for a mat, upon -which he was extended in his shirt, and fanned by -two men. The disorder being still unsubdued, the patient -was placed upon a chair, where cold water was -poured over him in profusion, while the French surgeon, -who was constantly by his side, and could not -restrain his indignation at seeing the ordinary rules -of his practice thus set at naught, exclaimed, “They -are killing you, sir! Depend upon it, that it is by -killing you the hakīm means to remove your fever!” -The traveller, however, maintained his confidence -in the Persian, and had very soon the satisfaction of -being informed that the fever had already abated, -and of perceiving that, instead of killing, the hakīm -had actually cured him. In one word, the disorder -departed more rapidly than it had come on, and in a -few days he was enabled to continue his journey.</p> - -<p class="c017">Remaining quietly at Ispahan during the space of -a whole year after this unfortunate excursion, he -then departed from the capital for the court, which -still lingered at Casbin, in company with Mohammed -Hussein Beg, son of the governor of the island of -Bahreint. This young man was conducting from -his father to the king a present, consisting of two -wild bulls, with long, black, sharp horns, an ostrich, -and a number of rich Indian stuffs; and being by no -means a strict Mussulman, drinking wine and eating -heartily of a good dinner, whether cooked by Mohammedan -or Christian, was a very excellent travelling -companion. On his arrival at Casbin, Chardin, -who was now extremely well known to all the<span class="pageno" id="Page_268">268</span> -grandees of the kingdom, was agreeably and hospitably -received by the courtiers, particularly by the -wife of the grand pontiff, who was the king’s aunt. -This lady, in order to manifest the friendship she -entertained for him, though in consequence of the -peculiar manners of the country their souls only had -met, made him a present of eight chests of dried -sweetmeats, scented with amber and the richest perfumes -of the East. Her husband was no less distinguished -by his friendship for our traveller, who nowhere -in Persia experienced more genuine kindness -or generosity than from this noble family.</p> - -<p class="c017">During this visit to Casbin, Chardin had the honour, -as it is vulgarly termed, of presenting two of -his countrymen to the shah; and so powerful is the -force of habit and prejudice, that this able, learned, -and virtuous man really imagined it an honour to -approach and converse familiarly with an opium-eating, -cruel, and unprincipled sot, merely because -he wore a tiara and could sport with the destinies -of a great empire! The nazir, in introducing the -traveller, observed, “Sire, this is Chardin, your merchant.” -To which the shah replied, with a smile, -“He is a very dear merchant.”—“Your majesty is -right,” added the nazir; “he is a politic man; he -has overreached the whole court.” This the minister -uttered with a smile; and he had a right to smile, -says Chardin, for he took especial care that quite the -contrary should happen.</p> - -<p class="c017">Chardin soon after this took his final leave of the -court of Persia, and returned by way of Ispahan to -Bander-Abassi, whence he purposed sailing by an -English ship for Surat. The fear of falling into the -hands of the Dutch, then at war with France, prevented -him, however, from putting his design into -execution; and relinquishing the idea of again visiting -Hindostan, he returned to Europe in 1677. Of -the latter part of his life few particulars are known. -Prevented by religious considerations from residing<span class="pageno" id="Page_269">269</span> -in his own country, where freedom of conscience -was not to be enjoyed, he selected England for his -home, where, in all probability, he became acquainted -with many of the illustrious men who shed a glory -over that epoch of our history. It was in London, -also, that he first met with the lady whom he immediately -afterward made his wife. Like himself, she -was a native of France and a Protestant, forced into -banishment by the apprehension of religious persecution. -On the very day of his marriage Chardin -received the honour of knighthood from the hand of -the gay and profligate Charles II.</p> - -<p class="c017">Having now recovered from the fever of travelling, -the beautiful Rouennaise in all probability aiding in -the cure, Chardin devoted his leisure to the composition -of his “Travels’ History,” of which the first -volume appeared in London in 1686. While he was -employed in preparing the remainder of his works -for the press, he was appointed the king’s minister -plenipotentiary or ambassador to the States of Holland, -being at the same time intrusted with the management -of the East India Company’s affairs in that -country. His public duties, however, which could -not entirely occupy his mind, by no means prevented, -though they considerably delayed, the publication -of the remainder of his travels; the whole of which -appeared, both in quarto and duodecimo, in 1711. -Shortly after this he returned to England, where he -died in the neighbourhood of London, 1713, in the -sixty-ninth year of his age.</p> - -<p class="c017">The reputation of Chardin, which even before his -death extended throughout Europe and shed a lustre -over his old age, is still on the increase, and must -be as durable as literature and civilization; his merit -not consisting in splendour of description or in erudite -research, though in these he is by no means -deficient, but in that singular sagacity which enabled -him to penetrate into the heart and characters of -men, and to descend with almost unerring precision<span class="pageno" id="Page_270">270</span> -to the roots of institutions and manners. No European -seems to have comprehended the Persians so -completely; and no one has hitherto described them -so well. Religion, government, morals, manners, -costume—every thing in which one nation can differ -from another—Chardin had studied in that bold and -original manner which characterizes the efforts of -genius. His style, though careless, and sometimes -quaint, is not destitute of that <i>naïveté</i> and ease which -result from much experience and the consciousness -of intellectual power; and if occasionally it appear -heavy and cumbrous in its march, it more frequently -quickens its movements, and hurries along with -natural gracefulness and facility. Without appearing -desirous of introducing himself to the reader -further than the necessities of the case require, he -allows us to take so many glimpses of his character -and opinions, that by the time we arrive at the termination -of his travels we seem to be perfectly acquainted -with both; and unless all these indications -be fallacious, so much talent, probity, and elegance -of manners has seldom been possessed by any traveller. -Marco Polo was gifted with a more exalted -enthusiasm, and acquired a more extensive acquaintance -with the material phenomena of nature; Pietro -della Valle amuses the reader by wilder and more -romantic adventures; Bernier is more concise and -severe; Volney more rigidly philosophical; but for -good sense, acuteness of observation, suavity of -manner, and scrupulous adherence to truth, no -traveller, whether ancient or modern, is superior to -Chardin.</p> - -<div class="pbb"> - <hr class="pb c004" /> -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pageno" id="Page_271">271</span></p> - -<h2 class="c012" id="ENGELBERT_KAEMPFER">ENGELBERT KÆMPFER.</h2> -</div> - -<div class="nf-center-c0"> -<div class="nf-center c004"> - <div>Born 1651.—Died 1716.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<p class="c016"><span class="sc">This</span> distinguished traveller was born on the 16th -of September, 1651, at Lemgow, a small town in the -territories of the Count de Lippe, in the circle of -Westphalia. His father, who was a clergyman, bestowed -upon his son a liberal education suitable to -the medical profession, for which he was designed. -It is probable, however, that the numerous removals -from one city to another which took place in the -course of his education,—his studies, which commenced -at Hameln, in the duchy of Brunswick, -having been successively pursued at Lunebourg, -Hamburgh, Lubeck, Dantzick, Thorn, Cracow, and -Kœnigsberg,—communicated to his character a portion -of that restless activity and passion for vicissitude -which marked his riper years. But these -changes of scene by no means impaired his ardour -for study. Indeed, the idea of one day opening himself -a path to fame as a traveller appears, on the -contrary, to have imparted additional keenness to -his thirst for knowledge; his comprehensive and -sagacious mind very early discovering in how many -ways a knowledge of antiquity, of literature, and -the sciences might further the project he had formed -of enlarging the boundaries of human experience.</p> - -<p class="c017">Having during his stay at Kœnigsberg acquired a -competent knowledge of natural history and the -theory of medicine, he returned at the age of thirty -to his own country; whence, after a brief visit, he -again departed for Prussia and Sweden. Wherever -he went, the number and variety of his acquirements, -the urbanity of his manners, and the romance and<span class="pageno" id="Page_272">272</span> -enthusiasm of his character rendered him a welcome -guest, and procured him the favour of warm and -powerful friends. During his residence in this country, -at the university of Upsal and at Stockholm, he -became known to Rudbeck and Puffendorf, the father -of the historian; and it was through the interest of -the latter that, rejecting the many advantageous -offers which were made for the purpose of tempting -him to remain in Sweden, he obtained the office of -secretary to the embassy then about to be sent into -Persia. The object of this mission was partly commercial, -partly political; and as the Czar of Russia -was indirectly concerned in its contemplated arrangements, -it was judged necessary that the ambassador -should proceed to Ispahan by the way of -Moscow.</p> - -<p class="c017">Our traveller departed from Stockholm March 20, -1683, with the presents for the Shah of Persia, and, -proceeding through Arland, Finland, and Ingermunland, -joined Louis Fabricius at Narva. On their arrival -at Moscow, where their reception was magnificent, -the ambassador so skilfully conducted his -negotiations that in less than two months they were -enabled to pursue their journey. They accordingly -descended the Volga, and, embarking at Astrakan in -a ship with two rudders, and two pilots who belonged -to different nations, and could not understand each -other, traversed the Caspian Sea, where they encountered -a violent tempest, and at length arrived at -Nisabad. Here they found the ambassadors of Poland -and Russia, who had arrived a short time previously, -and were likewise on their way to Ispahan, -and in their company proceeded to Shamaki, the -capital of Shirwan.</p> - -<p class="c017">In this city, which they reached about the middle -of December, they remained a whole month, awaiting -the reply of the shah to the governor of Shirwan, -who immediately upon their arrival had despatched -a courier to court for directions respecting the manner<span class="pageno" id="Page_273">273</span> -in which, the several ambassadors were to be -treated and escorted to Ispahan. This delay was -fortunate for Kæmpfer, as it enabled him to visit and -examine the most remarkable objects of curiosity in -the neighbourhood, more particularly the ancient -city of Baku, renowned for its eternal fire; the -naphtha springs of Okesra; the burning fountains -and mephitic wells; and the other wonders of that -extraordinary spot. Upon this excursion he set out -from Shamakia on the 4th of January, 1684, accompanied -by another member of the legation, two Armenians, -and an Abyssinian interpreter. Their road, -during the first part of this day’s journey, lay over a -fine plain abounding in game; having passed which, -they arrived about noon at the village of Pyru Resah. -Here a storm, attended with a heavy fall of snow, -preventing their continuing their journey any farther -that day, they took possession of a kind of vaulted -stable, which the inhabitants in their simplicity denominated -a caravansary; and kindling a blazing fire -with dried wormwood and other similar plants, -which emitted a most pungent smoke, contrived to -thaw their limbs and keep themselves warm until -the morning.</p> - -<p class="c017">Next morning they continued their route, at first -through a mountainous and desert country buried in -snow, and afterward through a plain of milder temperature, -but both equally uninhabited, no living -creature making its appearance, excepting a number -of eagles perched upon the summits of the heights, -and here and there a flock of antelopes browsing -upon the plain. Lodging this night also in a caravansary -in the desert, and proceeding next day -through similar scenes, they arrived in the afternoon -at Baku. The aspect of this city, the narrowness -of the gate, the strange ornaments of the walls, the -peculiarity of the site, the structure of the houses, -the squalid countenances of the inhabitants, and the -novelty of every object which presented itself, inspired<span class="pageno" id="Page_274">274</span> -our traveller with astonishment. It happening -to be market-day, the streets were crowded with -people, who, being little accustomed to strangers, -and having never before seen a negro, crowded obstreperously -around the travellers, and followed -them with hooting, shouting, and clamour to their -lodgings. An old man, who had officiously undertaken -to provide them with an apartment, conducted -them through the mob of his townsfolk, which was -every moment becoming more dense, to a small mud -hut, situated in a deserted part of the city, and from -its dismal and miserable appearance, rather resembling -the den of a wild beast than a human dwelling. -Having entered this new cave of Trophonius, and -shut the door behind them, the travellers, as Kæmpfer -jocosely observes, began to offer up their thanks -to the tutelary god of the place, for affording them an -asylum from the insolence of the rabble. But their -triumph was premature. The mob, whose curiosity -was by no means to be satisfied with a passing -glance, ascended the roof of the den in crowds, and -before the travellers could spread out their carpets -and lie down, the crashing roof, the lattices broken, -and the door, which they had fastened with a beam, -violently battered, warned them that it was necessary -to escape before they should be overwhelmed -by the ruins. It was now thought advisable that -they should endeavour, by exhibiting themselves -and their Ethiopian interpreter, whom the Bakuares -unquestionably mistook for some near relation of -the devil’s, to conciliate their persecutors, and purchase -the privilege of sleeping in peace. They -therefore removed the beam, and issuing forth, Abyssinian -and all, into the midst of the crowd, allowed -them time to gaze until they were tired. Presently -after this the governor of the city arrived; but, instead -of affording his protection to the strangers, as -a man in his station should have done, he accused -them of being spies, and having overwhelmed them<span class="pageno" id="Page_275">275</span> -with menaces, which he seems to have uttered for -the purpose of enhancing his own dignity in the estimation -of the multitude, departed, leaving them to -enact the spies at their discretion.</p> - -<p class="c017">Being now left in undisturbed possession of their -hut, and there still remaining some hours of daylight, -they prevailed upon their host, by dint of a -small bribe, to show them the citadel, situated in the -loftiest and most deserted part of the city. Returning -from thence, they were met by the beadles of -the town, who conducted them, with their beasts -and baggage, to the public caravansary, though their -host and guide had denied the existence of any such -building; and while this ancient deceiver was hurried -off before the magistrates, our travellers sat down -to supper and some excellent wine. Next morning -Kæmpfer issued forth, disguised as a groom, to examine -the remainder of the city, while his companions -loaded their beasts, and, the keeper of the caravansary -being absent, slipped out of the city, and -waited until he should join them at a little distance -upon the road. Having escaped from this inhospitable -place, they proceeded to examine the small peninsula -of Okesra, a tongue of land about three -leagues in length, and half a league in breadth, -which projects itself into the Caspian to the south -of Baku. This spot, like the Phlegræan fields, appears -to be but a thin crust of earth superimposed -upon an internal gulf of liquid fire, which, escaping -into upper air through a thousand fissures, scorches -the earth to dust in some places; in others, presents -to the eye a portion of its surface, boiling, eddying, -noisome, dark, wrapped in infernal clouds, and murmuring -like the fabled waters of hell. Here and -there sharp, lofty cones of naked rocks, composed, -like the summits of the Caucasus, of conchylaceous -petrifactions, shoot up from the level of the plain, -and on the northern part of the peninsula are sometimes -divided by cultivated valleys. On the summit<span class="pageno" id="Page_276">276</span> -of one of these eminences they perceived the ruins -of a castle, in former times the residence of a celebrated -imam, who had taken refuge in these wild -scenes from the persecution of the race of Omar.</p> - -<p class="c017">Still proceeding towards the south they arrived, in -about an hour from these ruins, upon the margin of -a burning field, the surface of which was strewed -with a pale white sand, and heaps of ashes; while, -from numerous gaping rents, rushing flames, black -smoke, or bluish steam, strongly impregnated with -the scent of naphtha, burst up in a singularly striking -manner. When the superincumbent sand was removed, -whether upon the edge of the fissures, or -in any other part of the field, a light rock, porous, -and worm-eaten, as it were, like pumice-stone, was -discovered; which, as well as the substratum of the -whole peninsula, consisted of shelly petrifactions. -Here they found about ten persons occupied in different -labours about the fires; some being employed -in attending to a number of copper or earthen vessels, -placed over the least intense of the burning -fissures, in which they were cooking dinner for the -inhabitants of a neighbouring village; while others -were piling stones brought from other places into -heaps, to be burnt into lime. Apart from these sat -two Parsees, the descendants of the ancient inhabitants -of Persia, beside a small wall of dry stones -which they had piled up, contemplating with holy -awe and veneration the fiercely ascending flames, -which they regard as an emblem of the eternal God.</p> - -<p class="c017">One of the lime-burners now came up to the travellers, -and said that for a small reward he would -show them a very extraordinary spectacle. When -they had given him some trifle, he plucked a few -threads of cotton from his garment, and twisting -them upon the end of his rake, went and held them -over one of the burning fissures, where they were -instantly kindled. He then held the rake over -another rent, from which neither flame nor smoke<span class="pageno" id="Page_277">277</span> -ascended, and in an instant the gaseous exhalation, -previously invisible, was kindled, and shot up into a -tall, bright flame, like that of a vast gas lamp, which, -after burning furiously for some time, to the unspeakable -astonishment of the strangers, died away -and disappeared. Similar phenomena are observed -in several parts of the Caucasus, particularly in the -chasms of Mount Shubanai, about four days’ journey -from Okesra.</p> - -<p class="c017">From this place they were conducted to the fountains -of white naphtha, where the substance oozed -out of the earth as clear as crystal, but in small -quantities. Kæmpfer was surprised to find the wells -left unprotected even by a wall; for if by any accident -they were set on fire, as those near Ecbatana -were in ancient times, as we learn from Plutarch, -they would continue to burn for ever with inextinguishable -violence. Having likewise visited the -wells of black naphtha, where this pitchy oil bubbled -up out of the earth with a noise like that of a -torrent, and in such abundance that it supplied many -countries with lamp oil, our travellers repaired to a -neighbouring village to pass the night. Here they -fared more sumptuously than at Baku; and having -supped deliciously upon figs, grapes, apples, and -pomegranates, their unscrupulous hosts, notwithstanding -that they were Mohammedans, unblushingly -offered to provide them with wine and courtesans! -Kæmpfer preferring to pass the evening in -learning such particulars as they could furnish respecting -the ancient and modern condition of their -country, they merrily crowded about him, and each -in his turn imparted what he knew. When their information -was exhausted, they formed themselves -into a kind of wild chorus, alternately reciting rude -pieces of poetry, and proceeding by degrees to singing -and dancing, afforded their guests abundant -amusement by their strange attitudes and gestures.</p> - -<p class="c017">Rising next morning with the dawn, they proceeded<span class="pageno" id="Page_278">278</span> -to view what is termed by the inhabitants -the naphtha hell. Ascending a small hemispherical -hill, they found its summit occupied by a diminutive -lake, not exceeding fifty paces in circumference, the -crumbling, marshy margin of which could only be -trodden with the utmost caution. The water, which -lay like a black sheet below, had a muriatic taste; -and a strange hollow sound, arising out of the extremest -depths of the lake, continually smote upon -the ear, and increased the horror inspired by the aspect -of the place. From time to time black globules -of naphtha came bubbling up to the surface of the -water, and were gradually impelled towards the -shore, where, mixing with earthy particles, they incessantly -increased the crust which on all sides encroached -upon the lake, and impended over its infernal -gloom. At a short distance from this hill -there was a mountain which emitted a kind of black -ooze impregnated with bitumen, which, being hardened -by the sun as it flowed down over the sides of -the mountain, gave the whole mass the appearance -of a prodigious cone of pitch. In the northern portion -of the peninsula they beheld another singular -phenomenon, which was a hill, through the summit of -which, as through a vast tube, immense quantities -of potter’s earth ascended, as if impelled upwards -by some machine, and having risen to a considerable -height, burst by its own weight, and rolled down -the naked side of the hill. In this little peninsula -nature seems to have elaborated a thousand wonders, -which, however, while they astonish, are useful -to mankind. It was with the produce of Okesra -that Milton lighted up his Pandæmonium:—</p> - -<div class="lg-container-b"> -<div class="linegroup"> - <div class="group"> - <div class="line in16">From the arched roof,</div> - <div class="line">Pendent by subtle magic, many a row</div> - <div class="line">Of starry lamps and blazing cressets, fed</div> - <div class="line">With <i>naphtha</i> and <i>asphaltus</i>, yielded light</div> - <div class="line">As from a sky.</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p class="c017">Returning to Shamakin, which Kæmpfer erroneously<span class="pageno" id="Page_279">279</span> -supposes to be the Rhaya of the Bible, our -traveller a few days afterward departed for Ispahan, -where he remained nearly two years. Shah Solyman, -the prince then reigning, whose character and -court have been so admirably described by Chardin, -was a man whose feeble constitution and feebler -mind rendered him a slave to physicians and astrologers. -He was now, by the counsel of his stargazers, -a voluntary prisoner in his own palace, a malignant -constellation, as they affirmed, menacing him -with signal misfortunes should he venture abroad. -On the 30th of July, however, the sinister influence -of the stars no longer preventing him, he held a -public levee with the utmost splendour and magnificence; -upon which occasion, as Asiatic princes are -peculiarly desirous of appearing to advantage in the -eyes of strangers, all the foreign ambassadors then -in the capital were admitted to an audience. Though -the representatives of several superior nations, as -of France, Germany, and Russia, to say nothing of -those of Poland, Siam, or of the pope, were present, -the ambassador of Sweden obtained, I know -not wherefore, the precedence over them all. Probably -neither the shah nor his ministers understood the -comparative merits of the various nations of Europe, -and regulated their conduct by the personal -character of the envoys; and it would seem that -Lewis Fabricius possessed the secret of rendering -himself agreeable to the court of Persia.</p> - -<p class="c017">Meanwhile Kæmpfer, who lost no opportunity of -penetrating into the character and observing the manners -of a foreign people, employed his leisure in -collecting materials for the various works which he -meditated. He bestowed particular attention upon -the ceremonies and observances of the court; the -character and actions of the shah; the form of government; -the great officers of state; the revenue -and forces; and the religion, customs, dress, food, -and manners of the people. His principal inquiries,<span class="pageno" id="Page_280">280</span> -however, both here and elsewhere, had medicine and -natural history for their object; and that his researches -were neither barren nor frivolous is demonstrated -by his “Amœnitates Exoticæ,” one of -the most instructive and amusing books which have -ever been written on the East.</p> - -<p class="c017">Towards the conclusion of the year 1686, M. Fabricius, -having successfully terminated his negotiations -with the Persian court, prepared to leave Ispahan; -but Germany being still, says Kæmpfer, -engaged in war with France and the Ottoman Porte, -he preferred relinquishing his office of secretary to -the embassy, and pushing his fortunes in the remoter -countries of the East, to the idea of beholding, -and perhaps involving himself in the calamities -of his native land, which, however he might deplore, -he had no power to remedy or alleviate. He therefore -took his leave of the ambassador, who did him -the honour to accompany him with all his retinue a -mile out of Ispahan, and proceeded towards Gombroon, -or Bander-Abassi, having, by the friendship -of Father du Mons, and the recommendations of M. -Fabricius, obtained the office of chief surgeon to -the fleet of the Dutch East India Company, then -cruising in the Persian Gulf. He long hesitated, he -says, whether he should select Egypt or the “Farther -East” for the field of his researches; and had -not circumstances, which frequently stand in the -place of destiny, interposed, it is probable that the -charms of the Nile would have proved the more -powerful. To a man like Kæmpfer, the offer of becoming -<i>chief physician</i> to a Georgian Prince, “with -considerable appointments,” which was made him -about this time, could have held out but small temptation, -as he must have been thoroughly acquainted, -not only with the general poverty of both prince and -people, but likewise with the utter insecurity of person -and property in that wretched country.</p> - -<p class="c017">It was during this journey that he visited the celebrated<span class="pageno" id="Page_281">281</span> -ruins of Persepolis. He arrived in sight of -the Forty Pillars on the 1st of December, 1686; and -looking towards this scene of ancient magnificence, -where the choicest of the population of a vast empire -had once sported like butterflies in the sun, his -eye encountered about fifty black Turcoman tents -upon the plain, before the doors of which sat a number -of women engaged in weaving, while their husbands -and children were amusing themselves in the -tents, or absent with the flocks and herds. Not -having seen the simple apparatus which enables the -Hindoos to produce the finest fabrics in the world, -whether in chintzes or muslins, Kæmpfer beheld with -astonishment the comparatively excellent productions -of these rude looms, and the skill and industry -of the Persepolitan Calypsos, whose fair fingers thus -emulated the illustrious labours of the Homeric goddesses -and queens. It was not within the power of -his imagination, however, inflamed as it was by the -gorgeous descriptions of Diodorus and other ancient -historians, to bestow a moment upon any thing modern -in the presence of those mysterious and prodigious -ruins, sculptured with characters which no -longer speak to the eye, and exhibiting architectural -details which the ingenuity of these “degenerate -days” lacks the acumen to interpret. Here, if we -may conjecture from the solemn splendour of the -language in which he relates what he saw, his mind -revelled in those dreamy delights which are almost -inevitably inspired by the sight of ancient monuments -rent, shattered, and half-obliterated by time.</p> - -<p class="c017">Having gratified his antiquarian curiosity by the -examination of these memorials of Alexander’s passion -for Thaïs, who,—</p> - -<div class="lg-container-b"> -<div class="linegroup"> - <div class="group"> - <div class="line">Like another Helen, fired another Troy,—</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>he continued his journey to Shiraz, where beauties -of another kind, exquisite, to use his own language, -beyond credibility, and marvellously varied, refreshed<span class="pageno" id="Page_282">282</span> -the eye, and seemed to efface from the mind all -recollection of the fact that the earth contained such -things as graves or ruins. The effervescence of -animal spirits occasioned by the air and aspect of -scenes so delicious appeared for the moment to -justify the enthusiasm of the Persian poet, who, -half-intoxicated with the perfume of the atmosphere, -exclaims:—</p> - -<div class="lg-container-b"> -<div class="linegroup"> - <div class="group"> - <div class="line">Boy, bid yon ruby liquid flow,</div> - <div class="line">And let thy pensive heart be glad,</div> - <div class="line">Whate’er the frowning zealots say;</div> - <div class="line">Tell them their Eden cannot show</div> - <div class="line">A stream so pure as Rocknabad,</div> - <div class="line">A bower so sweet as Mosellay!</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p class="c017">But, with all its beauty, Shiraz contains nothing -which raises so powerful an enthusiasm in the soul -as two tombs,—the tomb of the bard who sung the -beauties of the Rocknabad, and of the moral author -of the “Rose Garden;” irresistible and lasting -are the charms of poetry and eloquence! Our traveller -having acquired at Ispahan sufficient knowledge -of the Persian language to enable him to relish -<i>Hafiz</i>, though he complains that he is difficult, as -well as the easier and more popular <i>Saadi</i>, whose -sayings are in Persia “familiar to their mouths as -household words,” it was impossible that he should -pass through the city where their honoured ashes -repose without paying a pious visit to the spot. -Having contemplated these illustrious mausoleums -with that profound veneration which the memory -of genius inspires, he returned to his caravansary -half-persuaded, with the Persians, that they who do -not study and treasure up in their souls the maxims -of such divine poets can neither be virtuous nor -happy.</p> - -<p class="c017">From the poets of Shiraz he naturally turned to -its roses and its wine; the former, in his opinion, the -most fragrant upon earth; and the latter the most -balmy and delicious. In his history and description<span class="pageno" id="Page_283">283</span> -of this wine, one of the most agreeable articles in his -“Amœnitates,” there is a kind of bacchic energy and -enthusiasm, a rhapsodical affectation of sesquipedalian -words, which would seem to indicate that even -the remembrance of this oriental nectar has the -power of elevating the animal spirits. But whatever -were the delights of Shiraz, it was necessary to bid -them adieu; and inwardly exclaiming with the calif, -“How sweetly we live if a shadow would last!” he -turned his back upon Mosellay and the Rocknabad, -and pursued his route towards Gombroon.</p> - -<p class="c017">Here, if he was pleased with contrasts, he could -not fail to be highly gratified; for no two places -upon earth could be more unlike than Shiraz and -Gombroon. It was the pestilential air of this detestable -coast that had deprived Della Valle of his Maani, -and reduced Chardin to the brink of the grave; and -Kæmpfer had not been there many months before -he experienced in his turn the deadly effects of -breathing so inflamed and insalubrious an atmosphere, -from which, in the summer season, even the -natives are compelled to fly to the mountains. -Though no doubt the causes had long been at work, -the effect manifested itself suddenly in a malignant -fever, in which he lay delirious for several days. -When the violence of this disorder abated, it was -successively followed by a dropsy and a quartan -ague, through which dangerous and unusual steps, as -Dr. Scheuchzer observes, he recovered his health, -though not his former strength and vigour. Admonished -by this rough visitation, he now had recourse -to those means for the restoration of his strength -which a more rigid prudence would have taught him -to put in practice for its preservation, and removed -with all possible expedition into the mountainous -districts of Laristân.</p> - -<p class="c017">On the 16th of June, 1686, at least six weeks after -every other sane person had fled from the place, -Kæmpfer set out from Gombroon, sitting in a pannier<span class="pageno" id="Page_284">284</span> -suspended from the back of a camel, being too weak -to ride on horseback, and attended by a servant -mounted upon an ass, while another animal of the -same species carried his cooking apparatus and provisions. -To shield himself from the burning winds -which swept with incredible fury along these parched -and naked plains, he stretched a small sheet over his -head, which, falling down on both sides of the pannier, -served as a kind of tent. Thus covered, he -contrived to keep himself tolerably cool by continually -wetting the sheet on the inside; but being -clothed in an exceedingly thin garment, open in several -parts, he next day found that wherever the wet -sheet had touched him the skin peeled off as if it had -been burned. Having procured the assistance of a -guide, they deserted the ordinary road, and struck -off by a less circuitous, but more difficult track, -through the mountains. The prospect for some time -was as dull and dreary as could be imagined; consisting -of a succession of sandy deserts, here and -there interspersed with small salt ponds, the glittering -mineral crust of which showed like so many -sheets of snow by the light of the stars.</p> - -<p class="c017">At length, late on the night of the 20th, though the -darkness precluded the possibility of perceiving the -form of surrounding objects, he discovered by the -aroma of plants and flowers diffused through the air -that he was approaching a verdant and cultivated -spot; and continuing his journey another day over a -rocky plain, he arrived at the foot of the mountains. -Here he found woody and well-watered valleys alternating -with steep and craggy passes, which inspired -him with terror as he gazed at their frowning and -tremendous brows from below. By dint of perseverance, -however, he at length reached the summit -of Mount Bonna, or at least the highest inhabited -part, though spiry rocks shooting up above this -mountain plateau on every side intercepted all view -of the surrounding country. The chief of the mountain<span class="pageno" id="Page_285">285</span> -village in which he intended to reside received -him hospitably, and on the very morning after his -arrival introduced him to the spot where he was to -remain during his stay. This was a kind of garden -exposed to the north-east, and therefore cool and -airy. Ponds of water, cascades, narrow ravines, -overhanging rocks, and shady trees rendered it a delightful -retreat; but as the Persians as well as the -Turks regard our habit of pacing backwards and forwards -as no better than madness, there were no -walks worthy of the name. When showers of rain -or any other cause made him desire shelter, he betook -himself to a small edifice in the garden, where -his only companion was a large serpent, which ensconced -itself in a hole directly opposite to his -couch, where it passed the night, but rolled out early -in the morning to bask in the sun upon the rocks. -Upon a sunny spot in the garden he daily observed -two delicate little chameleons, which, he was persuaded, -were delighted with his society; for at -length one or the other of them would follow him -into the house, either to enjoy the warmth of the -fire, or to pick up such crumbs as might drop from his -table during dinner. If observed, however, it would -utter a sound like the gentle laugh of a child, and -spring off to its home in the trees. He was shortly -afterward joined by another German invalid from -Gombroon, whom he appears to have found preferable -as a companion both to the serpent and the chameleon.</p> - -<p class="c017">Having now no other object than to amuse himself -and recover his health, he indulged whatever -fancy came uppermost; at one time examining the -plants and trees of the mountain, and at another joining -a party of mountaineers in hunting that singular -species of antelope in the stomach of which the -bezoar is found. The chase of this fleet and timid -animal required the hunters to be abroad before day, -when they concealed themselves in some thicket or<span class="pageno" id="Page_286">286</span> -cavern, or beneath the brows of overhanging rocks, -near the springs to which it usually repaired with -the dawn to drink. They knew, from some peculiarities -in the external appearance of the beasts, such -individuals as certainly contained the bezoar in their -stomach from those which did not; and in all his -various excursions Kæmpfer requested his companions -to fire at the former only.</p> - -<p class="c017">In these same mountains there was an extraordinary -cavern concealed among rugged and nearly inaccessible -precipices, from the sides of which there -constantly exuded a precious balsam of a black colour, -inodorous, and almost tasteless, but of singular -efficacy in all disorders of the bowels. The same -district likewise contained several hot-baths, numerous -trees and plants, many of which were unknown -in Europe, and a profusion of those fierce animals, -such as leopards, bears, and hyenas, which constitute -the game of an Asiatic sportsman.</p> - -<p class="c017">Remaining in these mountains until he considered -his strength sufficiently restored, he returned to -Gombroon. During his residence in Persia, which -was nearly of four years’ continuance, he collected -so large a quantity of new and curious information, -that notwithstanding that most of the spots he describes -had been visited by former travellers, his -whole track seems to run over an untrodden soil; -so true is it that it is the mind of the traveller, far -more than the material scene, which furnishes the -elements of interest and novelty. The history of -this part of his travels, therefore, the results of which -are contained in his “Amœnitates,” seemed to deserve -being given at some length. To that curious -volume I refer the reader for his ample and interesting -history of the generation, growth, culture, and -uses of the date-palm; his description of that remarkable -balsamic juice called <i>muminahi</i> by the Persians, -and mumia, or munmy, by Kæmpfer, which -exudes from a rock in the district of Daraab, and was<span class="pageno" id="Page_287">287</span> -annually collected with extraordinary pomp and ceremony -for the sole use of the Persian king; and the -curious account which he has given of the <i>asafœtida</i> -plant, said to be produced only in Persia; the <i>filaria -medinensis</i>, or worm which breeds between the interstices -of the muscles in various parts of the human -body; and the real oriental dragon’s blood, which is -obtained from a coniferous palm.</p> - -<p class="c017">About the latter end of June, 1688, he sailed on -board the Dutch fleet from Gombroon, which having -orders to touch at Muscat and several other ports -of Arabia, he enjoyed an opportunity of observing -something of the climate and productions of that -country, from whose spicy shore, to borrow the language -of Milton, Sabæan odours are diffused by the -north-east winds, when,—</p> - -<div class="lg-container-b"> -<div class="linegroup"> - <div class="group"> - <div class="line">Pleased with the grateful smell, old Ocean smiles!</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p class="c017">Proceeding eastward through the Indian Ocean, -they successively visited the north-western coasts -of the Deccan, the kingdoms of Malabar, the island -of Ceylon, the Gulf of Bengal, and Sumatra; all which -countries he viewed with the same curious eye, the -same spirit of industry and thirst of knowledge.</p> - -<p class="c017">Upwards of a year was spent in this delightful -voyage, the fleet not arriving at Batavia, its ultimate -point of destination, until the month of September, -1689. Kæmpfer regarded this chief seat of the Dutch -power in the East as a hackneyed topic, and neglected -to bestow any considerable research or pains -upon its history or appearance, its trade, riches, -power, or government; but the natural history of -the country, a subject more within the scope of his -taste and studies, as well as more superficially -treated by others, commanded much of his attention. -The curious and extensive garden of Cornelius Van -Outhoorn, director-general of the Dutch East India -Company, the garden of M. Moller, and the little -island of Eidam, lying but a few leagues off Batavia,<span class="pageno" id="Page_288">288</span> -afforded a number of rare and singular plants, indigenous -and exotic, many of which he was the first to -observe and describe.</p> - -<p class="c017">It was at that period the policy of the Dutch to -send an annual embassy to the court of Japan, the -object of which was to extend and give stability to -their commercial connexion with that country. -Kæmpfer, who had now been eight months in Batavia, -and appears during that period to have made -many powerful and useful friends, obtained the signal -favour of being appointed physician to the embassy; -and one of the ships receiving orders to touch at -Siam, the authorities, to enhance the obligation, permitted -him to perform the voyage in this vessel, that -an opportunity might be afforded him of beholding -the curiosities of that country.</p> - -<p class="c017">He sailed from Batavia on the 7th of May, 1690; -and steering through the Thousand Islands, having -the lofty mountains of Java and Sumatra in sight -during two days, arrived in thirteen days at Puli -Timon, a small island on the eastern coast of Malacca. -The natives, whom he denominates banditti, -were a dark, sickly-looking race, who, owing to their -habit of plucking out their beard, a custom likewise -prevalent in Sumatra and the Malay peninsula, had -all the appearance of ugly old women. Their dress -consisted of a coarse cummerbund, or girdle, and a -hat manufactured from the leaves of the sago-palm. -They understood nothing of the use of money; but -willingly exchanged their incomparable mangoes, -figs, pineapples, and fowls for linen shirts, rice, or -iron. On the 6th of June they arrived safely in the -mouth of the Meinam, and cast anchor before Siam, -where our traveller’s passion for botany immediately -led him into the woods in search of plants; but as -tigers and other wild beasts were here the natural -lords of the soil, it was fortunate that his herborizing -did not cost him dearer than he intended.</p> - -<p class="c017">In this country, which has recently been so ably<span class="pageno" id="Page_289">289</span> -described by Mr. Crawfurd, the historian of the -Indian Archipelago, Kæmpfer made but a short stay. -In the capital, which formed the extreme limit of -his knowledge, he observed a great number of temples -and schools, adorned with pyramids and columns -of various forms, covered with gilding. Though -smaller than European churches in dimension, they -were, he thought, greatly superior in beauty, on account -of their numerous bending and projecting -roofs, gilded architraves, porticoes, pillars, and other -ornaments. In the interior, the great number of -gilded images of Buddha, seated in long rows upon -raised terraces, whence they seemed to overlook -the worshippers, increased the picturesque character -of the building. Some of these statues were of -enormous size, exceeding not only that Phidian -Jupiter, represented in a sitting posture, which, had -it risen, must have lifted up the roof of the temple, -but even those prodigious statues of Osymandyas, -on the plains of Upper Egypt, which look like petrifactions -of Typhæus and Enceladus, the Titans who -cast Pelion upon Ossa. One of these gigantic -images, one hundred and twenty feet long, represents -Buddha reclining in a meditative posture, and has -set the fashion in Siam for the attitude in which -wisdom may be most successfully wooed.</p> - -<p class="c017">In sailing down the Meinam he was greatly amused -with the extraordinary number of black and gray -monkeys, which walked like pigmy armies along -the shore, or perched themselves upon the tops of -the loftiest trees, like crows. The glowworms, he -observes, afforded another curious spectacle; for, -setting upon trees, like a fiery cloud, the whole -swarm would spread themselves over its branches, -sometimes hiding their light all at once, and a moment -after shining forth again with the utmost regularity -and exactness, as if they were in a perpetual -systole and diastole. The innumerable swarms of -mosquitoes which inhabited the same banks were<span class="pageno" id="Page_290">290</span> -no less constant and active, though less agreeable -companions, which, from the complaints of our -traveller, appear to have taken a peculiar pleasure -in stinging Dutchmen.</p> - -<p class="c017">They left the mouth of the river on the 7th of -July, and on the 11th of August discovered the -mountains of Fokien in China. Continuing their -course along the southern coast of this empire, they -observed, about the twenty-seventh degree of north -latitude, a yellowish-green substance floating on the -surface of the sea, which appeared for two days. -Exactly at the same time they were visited by a -number of strange black birds, which perched on -several parts of the ship, and suffered themselves to -be taken by the hand. These visits, which were -made during a dead calm, and when the weather -was insufferably hot, was succeeded by tremendous -storms, accompanied by thunder and lightning, and -a darkness terrible as that of Egypt. The rain, -which was now added to the other menaces of the -heavens, and was hurled, mingled with brine and -spray, over the howling waves, appeared to threaten -a second deluge; and both Kæmpfer and the crew -seem to have anticipated becoming a prey to the -sharks. However, though storm after storm beat -upon them in their course, the “audax genus Japeti” -boldly pursued their way, and on the 24th of September -cast anchor in the harbour of Nangasaki, in -Japan, which is enclosed with lofty mountains, -islands, and rocks, and thus guarded by nature -against the rage of the sea and the fury of the -tempest.</p> - -<p class="c017">The appearance of this harbour, which on the -arrival of Kæmpfer was enlivened by a small fleet -of pleasure-boats, was singularly picturesque. In -the evening all the vessels and boats put up their -lights, which twinkled like so many stars, over the -dark waves; and when the warm light of the morning -appeared, the pleasure-boats, with their alternate<span class="pageno" id="Page_291">291</span> -black and white sails, standing out of the port, -and gilded by the bright sunshine, constituted an -agreeable spectacle. The next sight was equally -striking. This consisted of a number of Japanese -officers, with pencil and paper in hand, who came on -board for the purpose of reviewing the newly-arrived -foreigners, of whom, after narrowly scrutinizing -every individual, they made an exact list and description -of their persons, in the same manner as we -describe thieves and suspicious characters in Europe. -All their arms and ammunition, together with their -boat and skiff, were demanded and delivered up. -Their prayer-books and European money they concealed -in a cask, which was carefully stowed away -out of the reach of the Japanese.</p> - -<p class="c017">Kæmpfer quitted the ship as soon as possible, and -took up his residence at Desima, a small island adjoining -Nangasaki, or only separated from it by an -artificial channel. Here he forthwith commenced -the study of the language, and the contrivance of the -means of acquiring from a people bound by a solemn -oath to impart nothing to foreigners such information -respecting the country, its institutions, religion, -and manners as might satisfy the curiosity of the -rest of mankind respecting so singular a nation. -The difficulties, he observes, with which he had to -contend were great, but not altogether insuperable; -and might be overcome by proper management, notwithstanding -all the precautions which the Japanese -government had taken to the contrary. The Japanese, -a prudent and valiant nation, were not so easily -to be bound by an oath taken to such gods or spirits -as were not worshipped by many, and were unknown -to most; or if they did comply, it was chiefly from -fear of the punishment which would inevitably overtake -them if betrayed. Besides, though proud and -warlike, they were as curious and polite a nation as -any in the world, naturally inclined to commerce -and familiarity with foreigners, and desirous to<span class="pageno" id="Page_292">292</span> -excess of acquiring a knowledge of their histories, -arts, and sciences. But the Dutch being merchants, -a class of men which they ranked among the lowest -of the human race, and viewed with jealousy and -mistrust even for the very slavish and suspicious -condition in which they were held, our traveller -could discover no mode of insinuating himself into -their friendship, and winning them over to his interest, -but by evincing a readiness to comply with their -desires, a liberality which subdued their avarice, and -an humble and submissive manner which flattered -their vanity.</p> - -<p class="c017">By these means, as he ingenuously confesses, he -contrived, like another Ulysses, to subdue the spells -of religion and government; and having gained the -friendship and good opinion of the interpreters and -the officers who commanded in Desima, to a degree -never before possessed by any European, the road -to the knowledge he desired lay open and level before -him. It would, indeed, have been no easy task to -resist the methods he put in practice for effecting his -purpose. He liberally imparted to them both medicine -and medical advice, and whatever knowledge -he possessed in astronomy and mathematics; he -likewise furnished them with a liberal supply of -European spirituous liquors; and these, joined with -the force of captivating manners, were arguments -irresistible. He was therefore permitted by degrees -to put whatever questions he pleased to them respecting -their government, civil and ecclesiastical, -the political and natural history of the country, the -manners and customs of the natives, or any other -point upon which he required information; even in -those matters on which the most inviolable secrecy -was enjoined by their oaths. The materials thus -collected, however, though highly important and -serviceable, were far from being altogether satisfactory, -or sufficient foundation whereon to erect a -history of the country; which, therefore, he must<span class="pageno" id="Page_293">293</span> -have left unattempted had not his good genius presented -him with other still more ample means of -knowledge.</p> - -<p class="c017">Upon his arrival in Desima young man of about -four-and-twenty, prudent, sagacious, indefatigable, -thoroughly acquainted with the languages of China -and Japan, and ardently desirous of improving himself -in knowledge, was appointed to attend upon -him, in the double capacity of servant and pupil. -This young man had the good fortune, while under -the direction of Kæmpfer, to cure the governor of -the island of some complaint under which he -laboured; for which important service he was permitted, -apparently contrary to rule, to remain in the -service of our traveller during the whole of his stay -in Japan, and even to accompany him on his two -journeys to the capital. In order to derive all possible -advantage from the friendship of his pupil, -Kæmpfer taught him Dutch, as well as anatomy and -surgery; and moreover allowed him a handsome -salary. The Japanese was not ungrateful. He -collected with the utmost assiduity from every -accessible source such information as his master -required; and there was not a book which Kæmpfer -desired to consult that he did not contrive to procure -for him, and explain whenever his explanation was -necessary.</p> - -<p class="c017">About the middle of February, 1691, the customary -presents having been got ready, and the necessary -preparations made, the Dutch embassy set out -from Nangasaki for the court of the emperor, with -Kæmpfer and his pupil in its train. Having got -fairly out of the city they proceeded on their journey, -passing through the small village of Mangome, -wholly inhabited by leather-tanners, who perform -the office of public executioners in Japan; and in -about two hours passed a stone pillar marking the -boundaries of the territory of Nangasaki. Here -and there upon the wayside they beheld the statue<span class="pageno" id="Page_294">294</span> -of Zisos, the god of travellers, hewn out of the solid -rock, with a lamp burning before it, and wreaths of -flowers adorning its brows. At a little distance from -the image of the god stood a basin full of water, in -which such travellers performed their ablutions as -designed to light the sacred lamps, or make any other -offering in honour of the divinity.</p> - -<p class="c017">Towards the afternoon of the first day’s journey -they arrived at the harbour of Omura, on the shore -of which they observed the smoke of a small volcano. -Pearl oysters were found in this bay; and -the sands upon the coast had once been strewn with -gold, but the encroachment of the sea had inundated -this El Doradian beach. Next morning they passed -within sight of a prodigious camphor-tree, not less -than thirty-six feet in circumference, standing upon -the summit of a craggy and pointed hill; and soon -afterward arrived at a village famous for its hot-baths. -After passing through another village, they -reached a celebrated porcelain manufactory, where -the clay used was of a fat-coloured white, requiring -much kneading, washing, and cleansing, before it -could be employed in the formation of the finer and -more transparent vessels. The vast labour required -in this manufacture gave rise to the old saying, that -porcelain was formed of human bones.</p> - -<p class="c017">The country through which they now travelled -was agreeably diversified with hill and dale, cultivated -like a garden, and sprinkled with beautiful -fields of rice, enclosed by rows of the tea-shrub, -planted at a short distance from the road. On the -next day they entered a plain country, watered by -numerous rivers, and laid out in rice-fields like the -former. In passing through this district they had -for the first time an opportunity of observing the -form and features of the women of the province of -Fisen. Though already mothers, and attended by -a numerous progeny, they were so diminutive in -stature that they appeared to be so many girls, while<span class="pageno" id="Page_295">295</span> -the paint which covered their faces gave them the -air of great babies or dolls. They were handsome, -however, notwithstanding that, in their quality of -married women, they had plucked out the hair of -both eyebrows; and their behaviour was agreeable -and genteel. At Sanga, the capital of the province, -he remarked the same outrageous passion for painting -the face in all the sex, though they were naturally -the most beautiful women in Asia; and, as might -be conjectured from the rosy colour of their lips, -possessed a fine healthy complexion.</p> - -<p class="c017">Upon quitting the province of Fisen, and entering -that of Toussima, a mountainous and rugged country, -they travelled in a rude species of palanquin -called a cango, being nothing more than a small -square basket, open on all sides, though covered at -top, and carried upon a pole by two bearers. In -ascending the mountain of Fiamitz they passed -through a village, the inhabitants of which, they -were told, were all the descendants of one man, -who was then living. Whether this was true or not, -Kæmpfer found them so handsome and well formed, -and at the same time so polished and humane in -their conversation and manners, that they seemed to -be a race of noblemen. The scenery in this district -resembled some of the woody and mountainous -parts of Germany, consisting of a rapid succession -of hills and valleys, covered with copses or woods; -and though in some few places too barren to admit of -cultivation, yet, where fertile, so highly valued, that -even the tea-shrub was only allowed to occupy the -space usually allotted to enclosures.</p> - -<p class="c017">On the 17th of February they reached the city of -Kokura, in the province of Busen. Though considerably -fallen from its ancient opulence and splendour, -Kokura was still a large city, fortified by towers -and bastions, adorned with many curious gardens -and public buildings, and inhabited by a numerous -population. Here they moved through two long<span class="pageno" id="Page_296">296</span> -lines of people, who lined both sides of the way, and -knelt in profound silence while they passed. They -then embarked in barges; and, sailing across the -narrow strait which divides the island of Kiersu -from Nisson, landed at Simonoseki in the latter -island, the name of which signified the prop of the -sun. Next day being Sunday, they remained at Simonoseki; -and Kæmpfer strolled out to view the -city and its neighbourhood. He found it filled with -shops of all kinds, among which were those of certain -stonecutters, who, from a black and gray species -of serpentine stone, dug from the quarries in -the vicinity, manufactured inkstands, plates, boxes, -and several other articles, with great neatness and -ingenuity. He likewise visited a temple erected to -the manes of a young prince who had prematurely -perished. This he found hung, like their theatres, -with black crape, while the pavement was partly -covered with carpets inwrought with silver. The -statue of the royal youth stood upon an altar; and -the Japanese who accompanied our traveller bowed -before it, while the attendant priest lit up a lamp, -and pronounced a kind of funeral oration in honour -of the illustrious dead. From the temple they were -conducted into the adjoining monastery, where they -found the prior, a thin, grave-looking old man, clothed -in a robe of black crape, who sat upon the floor; -and making a small present to the establishment, -they departed.</p> - -<p class="c017">Next morning, February 19th, they embarked for -Osaki, preferring the voyage by water to a toilsome -journey over a rude and mountainous region; and, -after sailing through a sea thickly studded with -small islands, the greater number of which were -fertile and covered with population, arrived in five -days at their point of destination. Osaki, one of -the five imperial cities of Japan, was a place of considerable -extent and great opulence. The streets -were broad, and in the centre of the principal ones<span class="pageno" id="Page_297">297</span> -ran a canal, navigable for small unmasted vessels, -which conveyed all kinds of merchandise to the -doors of the merchants; while upwards of a hundred -bridges, many of which were extremely beautiful, -spanned these canals, and communicated a -picturesque and lively air to the whole city. The -sides of the river were lined with freestone, which -descended in steps from the streets to the water, -and enabled persons to land or embark wherever -they pleased. The bridges thrown over the main -stream were constructed with cedar, elegantly railed -on both sides, and ornamented from space to space -with little globes of brass. The population of the -city was immense; and, like those of most seaport -towns, remarkably addicted to luxury and voluptuousness.</p> - -<p class="c017">From Osaki they proceeded through a plain country, -planted with rice, and adorned with plantations -of Tsadanil trees, to Miako, the ancient capital of -Japan. It being the first day of the month, which -the Japanese keep as a holyday, they met great -multitudes of people walking out of the city, as the -Londoners do on Sunday, to enjoy the sweets of -cessation from labour,</p> - -<div class="lg-container-b"> -<div class="linegroup"> - <div class="group"> - <div class="line">With pleasaunce of the breathing fields yfed,</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>to visit the temples, and give themselves up to all -kinds of rural diversions. Nothing could be more -grotesque than the appearance of these crowds. -The women were richly dressed in various-coloured -robes, with a purple-coloured silk about their foreheads, -and wearing large straw hats, to defend their -beauty from the sun. Here and there among the -multitude were small groups of beggars, some -dressed in fantastic garbs, with strange masks upon -their faces, others walking upon high iron stilts, -while a third party walked along bearing large pots -with green trees upon their heads. The more -merry among them sung, whistled, played upon the<span class="pageno" id="Page_298">298</span> -flute, or beat little bells which they carried in their -hands. In the streets were numbers of open shops, -jugglers, and players, who were exercising their -skill and ingenuity for the amusement of the crowd. -The temples, which were erected on the slope of -the neighbouring green hills, were illuminated with -numerous lamps, and the priests, no less merry or -active than their neighbours, employed themselves -in striking with iron hammers upon some bells or -gongs, which sent forth a thundering sound over the -country. Through this enlivening scene they pushed -on to their inn, where they were ushered into apartments, -which, being like all other apartments in the -empire, destitute of chimneys, resembled those -Westphalian smoking-rooms in which they smoke -their beef and hams.</p> - -<p class="c017">Having visited the governor, and the lord chief -justice of Miako, and delivered the customary presents, -the embassy proceeded towards Jeddo. Short, -however, as was their stay, Kæmpfer found leisure -for observing and describing the city, which was -extensive, well-built, and immensely populous. Being -the chief mercantile and manufacturing town -in the empire, almost every house was a shop, and -every man an artisan. Here, he observes, they refined -copper, coined money, printed books, wove -the richest stuffs, flowered with gold and silver, -manufactured musical instruments, the best-tempered -sword-blades, pictures, jewels, toys, and every -species of dress and ornaments.</p> - -<p class="c017">They departed from Miako in palanquins on -the 2d of March, and travelling through a picturesque -country, dotted with groves, glittering with -temples and lakes, and admirably cultivated, arrived -in three days at the town of Mijah, where they saw -a very curious edifice, called the “Temple of the -Three Scimitars,” where three miraculous swords, -once wielded by demigods, are honoured with a -kind of divine worship. On the 13th of March they<span class="pageno" id="Page_299">299</span> -arrived, by a fine road running along the edge of -the sea, at Jeddo, and entered the principal street, -where they encountered as they rode along numerous -trains of princes and great lords, with ladies -magnificently dressed, and carried in chairs or palanquins. -This city, the largest and most populous in -the empire, stands at the bottom of a large bay or -gulf, and is at least twenty miles in circumference. -Though fortified by numerous ditches and ramparts, -Jeddo is not surrounded by a wall. A noble river, -which divides itself into numerous branches, intersects -it in various directions, and thus creates a -number of islands which are connected by magnificent -bridges. From the principal of these bridges, which -is called Niponbas, or the Bridge of Japan, the great -roads leading to all parts of the empire radiate as -lines from a common centre, and thence likewise -all roads and distances are measured. Though -houses are not kept ready built, as at Moscow, to -be removed at a moment’s notice in case of destruction -by fire or any other accident, they are -generally so slight, consisting entirely of wood and -wainscotting, that they may be erected with extraordinary -despatch. Owing to the combustible materials -of those edifices, the very roofs consisting -of mere wood-shavings, while all the floors are covered -with mats, Jeddo is exceedingly liable to fires, -which sometimes lay waste whole streets and quarters -of the city. To check these conflagrations in -their beginnings every house has a small wooden -cistern of water on the house-top, with two mops -for sprinkling the water; but these precautions -being frequently found inefficient, large companies -of firemen constantly patrol the streets, day and -night, in order, by pulling down some of the neighbouring -houses, to put a stop to the fires. The -imperial palace, five Japanese miles in circumference, -consists of several castles united together by -a wall, and surrounded by a deep ditch. The various<span class="pageno" id="Page_300">300</span> -structures which compose this vast residence are -built with freestone, and from amid the wilderness -of roofs a square white tower rises aloft, and, consisting -of many stories, each of which has its leaded -roof, ornamented at each corner with gilded dragons, -communicates to the whole scene an air of -singular grandeur and beauty. Behind the palace, -which itself stands upon an acclivity, the ground -continues to rise, and this whole slope is adorned, -according to the taste of the country, with curious -and magnificent gardens, which are terminated by -a pleasant wood on the top of a hill, planted with -two different species of plane-trees, whose starry -leaves, variegated with green, yellow, and red, are -exceedingly beautiful.</p> - -<p class="c017">When their arrival at Jeddo was notified to the -imperial commissioners, to whom was intrusted the -regulation of foreign affairs, they were commanded -to be kept confined in their apartments, and strictly -guarded. This, in all probability, was to prevent -their discovering the tremendous accident which -had lately occurred in the city, where forty streets, -consisting of four thousand houses, had been burned -to the ground a few days before their arrival. Several -other fires, exceedingly destructive and terrific, -and an earthquake which shook the whole city to -its foundations, happened within a few days after -their arrival. On the 29th of March they were honoured -with an audience. Passing through the numerous -gates and avenues to the palace between -lines of soldiers, armed with scimitars, and clothed -in black silk, they were conducted into an apartment -adjoining the hall of audience, where they -were commanded to await the emperor’s pleasure. -As nothing could more forcibly paint the insolent -pride of this barbarian despot, or the degraded -position which, for the sake of gain, the Dutch -were content to occupy in Japan, I shall describe -this humiliating ceremony in the words of the<span class="pageno" id="Page_301">301</span> -traveller himself. “Having waited upwards of -an hour,” says he, “and the emperor having in the -mean while seated himself in the hall of audience, -Sino Comi (the governor of Nangasaki) and the -two commissioners came in and conducted our -resident into the emperor’s presence, leaving us -behind. As soon as he came thither, they cried out -aloud ‘Hollanda Captain!’ which was the signal for -him to draw near, and make his obeisance. Accordingly -he crawled on his hands and knees to a -place shown him, between the presents ranged in -due order on one side, and the place where the -emperor sat, on the other, and then kneeling, he -bowed his forehead quite down to the ground, and -so crawled backwards, like a crab, without uttering -one single word. So mean and short a thing is -the audience we have of this mighty monarch.”</p> - -<p class="c017">After a second audience, to which they were invited -chiefly for the purpose of allowing the ladies -of the harem, who viewed them from behind screens, -an opportunity of seeing what kind of animals -Dutchmen were, and having despatched the public -business, which was the sole object of the embassy, -they returned to Nangasaki. During this second -visit to Jeddo, in the following year, nothing very -remarkable occurred, except that they were invited -to dine in the palace, and thus afforded an opportunity -of observing the etiquette of a Japanese feast. -Each guest was placed at a small separate table, -and the repast commenced with hot white cakes as -tough as glue, and two hollow loaves of large dimension, -composed of flour and sugar, and sprinkled -over with the seeds of the sesamum album. Then -followed a small quantity of pickled salmon; and -the magnificent entertainment was concluded with -a few cups of tea, which Kæmpfer assures us was -little better than warm water! When they had -devoured this sumptuous feast, they were conducted -towards the hall of audience, where, after having<span class="pageno" id="Page_302">302</span> -been questioned respecting their names and age by -several Buddhist priests and others, Kæmpfer was -commanded to sing a song, for the amusement of -the emperor and his ladies, who were all present, -but concealed behind screens. He of course obeyed, -and sung some verses which he had formerly written -in praise of a lady for whom he says he had -a very particular esteem. As he extolled the beauty -of this paragon to the highest degree, preferring it -before millions of money, the emperor, who appears -to have partly understood what he sung, inquired -the exact meaning of those words; upon which, -like a true courtier, our traveller replied that they -signified nothing but his sincere wishes that Heaven -might bestow “millions of portions of health, fortune, -and prosperity upon the emperor, his family, -and court.” The various members of the embassy -were then commanded, as they had been on the -former audience, to throw off their cloaks, to walk -about the room, and to exhibit in pantomime in -what manner they paid compliments, took leave of -their parents, mistresses, or friends, quarrelled, -scolded, and were reconciled again. Another repast, -somewhat more ample than the preceding, followed -this farce, and their audience was concluded.</p> - -<p class="c017">Having now remained in Asia ten years, two of -which were spent in Japan, the desire of revisiting -his native land was awakened in his mind, and quitting -Japan in the month of November, 1692, he -sailed for Batavia. Here, in February, 1693, he -embarked for Europe. The voyage lasted a whole -year, during which they were constantly out at sea, -with the exception of a few weeks, which they -spent upon the solitudes of an African promontory, -for so he denominates the Cape of Good Hope. He -arrived at Amsterdam in the October following; -and now, after having, as M. Eriès observes, pushed -his researches almost beyond the limits of the old -world, began to think of taking his doctor’s degree,<span class="pageno" id="Page_303">303</span> -a measure which most physicians are careful to expedite -before they commence their peregrinations. -He was honoured with the desired title at Leyden, -in April, 1694, and custom requiring an inaugural -discourse, he selected for the purpose ten of the -most singular of those dissertations which he afterward -published in his “Amœnitates.”</p> - -<p class="c017">This affair, which is still, I believe, considered important -in Germany, being concluded, he returned -to his own country, where his reputation and agreeable -manners, together with the honour of being appointed -physician to his sovereign, the Count de -Lippe, overwhelmed him with so extreme a practice -that he could command no leisure for digesting and -arranging the literary materials, the only riches, as -he observes, which he had amassed during his travels. -However, busy as he was, he found opportunities -of conciliating the favour of some fair Westphalian, -who, he hoped, might deliver him from a -portion of his cares. In this natural expectation he -was disappointed. The lady, far from concurring -with her lord in smoothing the rugged path of human -life, was a second Xantippe, and, as one of -Kæmpfer’s nephews relates, poured more fearful -storms upon his head than those which he had endured -on the ocean. His marriage, in fact, was altogether -unfortunate; for his three children, who -might, perhaps, have made some amends for their -mother’s harshness, died in the cradle.</p> - -<p class="c017">It was upwards of eighteen years after his return -that he published the first fruits of his travels and -researches—the “Amœnitates Exoticæ;” which, -however, immediately diffused his reputation over -the whole of Europe. But his health had already -begun to decline, and before he could prepare for the -press any further specimens of his capacity and -learning, death stepped in, and snatched him away -from the enjoyment of his fame and friends, on the -2d of November, 1716, in the 66th year of his age.<span class="pageno" id="Page_304">304</span> -He was interred in the cathedral church of St. -Nicholas, at Lemgow; and Berthold Haeck, minister -of the town, pronounced a funeral sermon, or panegyric, -over his grave, which was afterward printed.</p> - -<p class="c017">Upon the death of Kæmpfer being made known -in England, Sir Hans Sloane, whose ardour for the -improvement of science is well known, commissioned -the German physician of George I., who -happened to be at that time proceeding to Hanover, -to make inquiries respecting our traveller’s manuscripts, -and to purchase them, if they were to be -disposed of. They were accordingly purchased, together -with all his drawings; and on their being -brought to England, Dr. Scheuchzer, a man of considerable -ability, was employed to translate the -principal work, the “History of Japan,” into English. -From this version, which has since been -proved to have been executed with care and fidelity, -it was translated into French by Desmaigeneux, and -retranslated into German in an imperfect and slovenly -manner. However, after the lapse of many -years, the original MS was faithfully copied, and the -work, hitherto known to our traveller’s own countrymen -chiefly through foreign translations, published -in Germany. Many of Kæmpfer’s manuscripts still -remain unpublished in the British Museum.</p> - -<p class="c017">Kæmpfer may very justly be ranked among the -most distinguished of modern travellers. To the -most extensive learning he united an enterprising -character, singular rectitude of judgment, great -warmth of fancy, and a style of remarkable purity -and elegance. His “Amœnitates” and “History of -Japan” may, in fact, be reckoned among the most -valuable and interesting works which have ever been -written on the manners, customs, or natural history -of the East.</p> - -<div class="pbb"> - <hr class="pb c004" /> -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pageno" id="Page_305">305</span></p> - -<h2 class="c012" id="HENRY_MAUNDRELL">HENRY MAUNDRELL.</h2> - -</div> - -<p class="c016"><span class="sc">Of</span> the birth, education, and early life of this traveller -little or nothing appears to be known with certainty. -His friends, who were of genteel rank, since -he calls Sir Charles Hodges, judge of the High -Court of Admiralty, his uncle, seem to have resided -in the neighbourhood of Richmond. Having completed -his studies, and taken the degree of master of -arts at Oxford, he was appointed chaplain to the -English factory at Aleppo, and departed from -England in the year 1695. Part of this journey -was performed by land; but whether it passed off -smoothly, or was diversified by incidents and adventures, -we are left to conjecture, our traveller not -having thought his movements of sufficient importance -to be known to posterity. It is simply recorded -that he passed through Germany, and made -some short stay at Frankfort, where he conversed -with the celebrated Job Ludolphus, who, learning -his design of residing in Syria, and visiting the Holy -Land, communicated to him several questions, the -clearing up of which upon the spot might, it was -hoped, tend to illustrate various passages in the Old -and New Testaments.</p> - -<p class="c017">Shortly after his arrival at Aleppo, he undertook, -in company with a considerable number of his flock, -that journey to Jerusalem which, short and unimportant -as it was, has added his name to the list of -celebrated travellers; so pleasantly, ingenuously, -and delightfully is it described. The history of the -short period of his life consumed in this excursion -is all that remains to us; and this is just sufficient to -excite our regret that we can know no more; for,<span class="pageno" id="Page_306">306</span> -from the moment of his introduction into our company -until he quits us to carry on his pious and -noiseless labours at Aleppo, diversified only by -friendly dinners and rural promenades or hunting, -we view his character with unmingled satisfaction. -He was a learned, cheerful, able, conscientious man, -who viewed with a pleasure which he has not -sought either to exaggerate or disguise the spots -rendered venerable by the footsteps or sufferings of -Christ, and of the prophets, martyrs, and apostles.</p> - -<p class="c017">Maundrell and his companions departed from -Aleppo on the 26th of February, 1696, and crossing -the plains of Kefteen, which are fruitful, well cultivated, -and of immense extent, arriving in two days -at Shogr, a large but dirty town on the banks of the -Orontes, where there was a splendid khan erected -by the celebrated Grand Vizier Kuperli, on the next -day they entered the pashalic of Tripoli; travelling -through a woody, mountainous country, beneath the -shade of overarching trees, amused by the roar of -torrents, or by the sight of valleys whose green turf -was sprinkled with myrtles, oleanders, tulips, anemonies, -and various other aromatic plants and flowers. -In traversing a low valley they passed over a -stream rolling through a narrow rocky channel -ninety feet deep, which was called the Sheïkh’s Wife, -an Arab princess having formerly perished in this -dismal chasm.</p> - -<p class="c017">Crossing <i>Gebel Occaby</i>, or the “Mountain of Difficulty,” -which, according to our traveller, fully deserves -its name, they arrived towards evening at -Belulca, a village famous for its wretchedness, and -for the extremely humble condition to which Christianity -is there reduced,—Christ being, to use his own -expressive words, once more laid in a manger in that -place. The poorness of their entertainment urged -them to quit Belulca as quickly as possible, though -the weather, which during the preceding day had -been extremely bad, was still far from being settled;<span class="pageno" id="Page_307">307</span> -and they had not proceeded far before they began to -regret this miserable resting-place, the rains bursting -out again with redoubled violence, breaking up -the roads, and swelling the mountain torrents to -overflowing. At length, however, they arrived opposite -a small village, to reach which they had only -to cross a little rivulet, dry in summer, but now increased -by the rains to a considerable volume, and -found upon trial to be impassable. In this dilemma, -they had merely the choice of returning to the miserable, -inhospitable den where they had passed the -preceding night, or of pitching their tent where they -were, and awaiting the falling of the stream. The -latter appeared the preferable course, though the -weather seemed to menace a second deluge, the -most terrible thunder and lightning now mingling -with and increasing the horrors of the storm; while -their servants and horses, whom their single tent -was too small to shelter, stood dripping, exposed to -all the fury of the heavens. At length a small -sheïkh’s house, or burying-place, was discovered in -the distance, where they hoped to be allowed to -take shelter along with the saints’ bones; but the -difficulty was how to gain admittance, it being probable -that the people of the village would regard the -approach of so many infidels to the tomb of their -holy men as a profanation not to be endured. To -negotiate this matter, a Turk, whom they had brought -along with them for such occasions, was despatched -towards the villagers, to obtain permission peaceably, -if possible; if not, to inform them that they -would enter the edifice by force. It is possible that -the Ottoman exceeded his instructions in his menaces; -for the indignation of the villagers was roused, -and declaring that it was their creed to detest and -renounce Omar and Abubeer, while they honoured -Ahmed and Ali, they informed the janizary that they -would die upon the infidels’ swords rather than submit -to have their faith defiled. The travellers on<span class="pageno" id="Page_308">308</span> -their part assured them that the opinion they entertained -of Omar and Abubeer was in no respect better -than their own; that they had no intention whatever -to defile their holy places; and that their only -object at present was to obtain somewhere or another -a shelter from the inclemency of the weather. -This apparent participation in their sectarian feelings -somewhat mollified their disposition, and they -at length consented to unlock the doors of the tomb, -and allow the infidels to deposite their baggage in it; -but with respect to themselves, it was decreed by -the remorseless villagers that they were to pass the -night <i>sub Jove</i>. When our travellers saw the door -opened, however, they began secretly to laugh at -the beards of the honest zealots, being resolved, as -soon as sleep should have wrapped itself round -these poor people like a cloak, as Sancho words it, -to steal quietly into the tomb, and dream for once -upon a holy grave. They did so; but either the anger -of the sheïkh or their wet garments caused them to -pass but a melancholy night.</p> - -<p class="c017">Next morning, the waters of the river, which rose -and fell with equal rapidity, having sunk to their ordinary -level, they issued forth from their sacred -apartments, and proceeding westward for some time, -they at length ascended a lofty eminence, from -whence, across a wide and fertile plain, they discovered -the city of Latichen, founded by Seleucus Nicator -on the margin of the sea. Leaving this city -and the Mediterranean on the right-hand, and a high -ridge of mountains on the left, they proceeded -through the plain towards Gibili, the ancient Gabala, -where they arrived in the evening, and remained one -day to recruit themselves. In the hills near this -city were found the extraordinary sect of the Nessariah, -which still subsists, and are supposed to be a -remnant of the ancient pagan population, worshippers -of Venus-Mylitta and the sun.</p> - -<p class="c017">Proceeding southward along the seacoast they<span class="pageno" id="Page_309">309</span> -crossed the Nahrel-Melek, or King’s River, passed -through Baneas, the ancient Balanea, and arrived -towards sunset at Tortosa, the Orthosia of antiquity, -erected on the edge of a fertile plain so close to the -sea that the spray still dashes among its crumbling -monuments. Continuing their journey towards Tripoli, -they beheld on their right, at about three miles’ -distance from the shore, the little island of Ruad, -the Arvad or Alphad of the Scriptures, and the Andus -of the Greeks and Romans, a place which, though -not above two or three furlongs in length, was once -renowned for its distant naval expeditions and immense -commerce, in which it maintained for a time -a rivalry even with Tyre and Sidon themselves. -Having travelled thus far by forced marches, as it -were, they determined to remain a whole week at -Tripoli, to repose their “wearied virtue,” and by -eating good dinners and making merry with their -friends, prepare themselves for the enduring of those -“slings and arrows of outrageous fortune,” which -all flesh, but especially travelling flesh, is heir to. -But the more fortunate and happy the hero of the -narrative happens to be, the more unfortunate and -melancholy is his biographer, for happiness is extremely -dull and insipid to every one except the individual -who tastes it. For this reason we hurry as -fast as possible over all the bright passages of a -man’s life, but dwell with delight on his sufferings, -his perils, his hair-breadth escapes, not, as some -shallow reasoners would have it, because we rejoice -at the misfortunes of another, but because our sympathies -can be awakened by nothing but manifestations -of intellectual energy and virtue, which shine -forth most gloriously, not on the calm waves of enjoyment, -but amid the storms and tempests of human -affairs.</p> - -<p class="c017">We therefore snatch our traveller from the rural -parties and cool valleys of Tripoli, in order to expose -him to toil and the spears of the Arabs. The<span class="pageno" id="Page_310">310</span> -week of pleasure being expired, the party set forward -towards the south, and proceeding for five -hours along the coast, arrived at a high rocky promontory, -intersecting the road, and looking with a -smooth, towering, and almost perpendicular face -upon the sea. This appears to be the promontory -called by Strabo, but wherefore is not known, τὸ του -Θεου Προσώπον, or the Face of God. Near this strangely-named -spot they encamped for the night under the -shade of a cluster of olive-trees. Surmounting this -steep and difficult barrier in the morning, they pursued -their way along the shore until they arrived at -Gabail, the ancient Byblus, a place once famous for -the birth and worship of Adonis. In this place they -made little or no stay, pushing hastily forward to -the Nahr Ibrahim, the river Adonis of antiquity, the -shadows of Grecian fable crowding thicker and -thicker upon their minds as they advanced, and -bringing along with them sweet schoolboy recollections, -sunny dreams, which the colder phenomena -of real life never wholly expel from ardent and -imaginative minds. Here they pitched their tent, -on the banks of the stream, and prepared to pass -the night amid those fields where of old the virgins -of the country assembled to unite with the goddess -of beauty, in lamentations for Adonis,</p> - -<div class="lg-container-b"> -<div class="linegroup"> - <div class="group"> - <div class="line">Whose annual wound in Lebanon allured</div> - <div class="line">The Syrian damsels to lament his fate</div> - <div class="line">In amorous ditties all a summer’s day,</div> - <div class="line">While smooth Adonis from his native rock</div> - <div class="line">Ran purple to the sea, supposed with blood</div> - <div class="line">Of Thammuz yearly wounded: the love-tale</div> - <div class="line">Infected Sion’s daughters with like heat,</div> - <div class="line">Whose wanton passions in the sacred porch</div> - <div class="line">Ezekiel saw, when by the vision led</div> - <div class="line">His eye surveyed the dark idolatries</div> - <div class="line">Of alienated Judah.</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p class="c017">The night was rainy and tempestuous, and when -they looked out in the morning the <i>Nahr Ibrahim</i> -had assumed that sanguine hue, which, according to -Lucian, always distinguishes it at that season of the<span class="pageno" id="Page_311">311</span> -year in which the festival of Adonis was celebrated. -Nay, the stream not only “ran purple to the sea,” -but had actually, as they observed in travelling -along, communicated its bloody colour to the waves -of the Mediterranean to a considerable distance from -the land, just as the Nile discolours them at the -time of the inundation along the whole coast of the -Delta.</p> - -<p class="c017">Their road now lay nearly at the foot of those -steep and rugged mountains which have for many -ages been inhabited by the Maronites, several of -whose convents they discerned perched like eagles’ -nests on the bare summit of the crags. A road cut -for a considerable distance through the solid rock, -and a track still more rude and wild, worn by the -footsteps of travellers in the side of the mountain, -at length brought them to the river Lycus, or Canis, -the <i>Nahr-el-Kelb</i>, or “Dog’s River,” of the Turks -and Arabs. Proceeding along a low sandy shore, -and crossing the <i>Nahr-el-Salib</i>, they arrived at a -small field near the sea, where St. George, the patron -of England, acting over again the fable of Apollo -and Python, fought with and killed that mighty -dragon which still shows its shining scales on the -golden coin of Great Britain. A small chapel, now -converted into a mosque, was anciently erected on -the spot in commemoration of the exploit. In the -evening they arrived at Beiroot, where they remained -the following day, examining the ruins and present -aspect of the city.</p> - -<p class="c017">The principal curiosities of Beiroot were the palace -and gardens of Fakreddin, fourth prince of the Druzes, -a people of Mount Lebanon, said to be descended -from the fragments of those Christian armies which, -after the final failure of the Crusades, were unable -or unwilling to return to their own countries, and -took up their residence in the mountain fastnesses -of the Holy Land. Originally the gardens of Fakreddin -must have been a little paradise. Even when<span class="pageno" id="Page_312">312</span> -Maundrell was there, after time and neglect had -considerably impaired their beauty, they were still -worthy of admiration. Large and lofty orange-trees -of the deepest verdure, among which the ripe yellow -fruit hung thickly suspended like oblong spheres of -gold, shaded the walks; while below small shining -rivulets of the purest water ran rippling along, -through channels of hewn stone, spreading coolness -through the air, and distributing themselves over -the gardens by many imperceptible outlets.</p> - -<p class="c017">On leaving Beiroot they proceeded through a spacious -plain, and traversing a large grove of pine-trees, -planted by the Emīr Fakreddin, arrived in two -hours on the banks of the river Dammar, anciently -Tamyras, in which, about four years before, the -younger Spon had been drowned in proceeding northward -from Jerusalem. Coming up to the edge of -the stream, they found a number of men, who, observing -their approach, had stripped themselves -naked, in order to aid them in passing the stream; -but having previously learned that a bridge which -once spanned this river had been purposely broken -down by these officious guides, in order to render -their services necessary, and that, moreover, they -sometimes drowned travellers to obtain their property, -they disappointed the ruffians, and ascending -along the stream for some time, at length discovered -a ford, and crossed without their aid.</p> - -<p class="c017">At the Awle, a small river about three miles north -of Sidon, our travellers were met by several French -merchants from this city, who, having been informed -of their drawing near, had come out to welcome -them. From these friends they learned, however, -that the French consul, who, being also consul of -Jerusalem, was compelled by the duties of his office -to visit the Holy City every Easter, had departed -from Sidon the day before; but that as he meant to -make some stay at Acra, they might hope to overtake -him there. On this account they again set out<span class="pageno" id="Page_313">313</span> -early next morning, and keeping close to the sea, -passed by the site of the ancient Sarepta, crossed -the Nahr-el-Kasmin, and in another hour arrived at -Tyre, where, notwithstanding their anxiety to place -themselves under the protection of the French -consul, who was travelling with an escort, they -were detained for a moment by the recollection of -the ancient glory of the place.</p> - -<p class="c017">Having indulged their curiosity for an instant, they -again hurried forward, the phantom of the consul -still flitting before them, like the enchanted bird in -the Arabian Nights, and reached Ras-el-Am, or the -“Promontory of the Fountains,” where those famous -reservoirs called the “Cisterns of Solomon” are -situated. Our traveller, who had little respect for -traditions, conjectured that these works, however -ancient they might be, could not with propriety be -ascribed to the Hebrew king, since the aqueduct -which they were intended to supply was built upon -the narrow isthmus uniting the island to the continent, -constructed by Alexander during the siege of -the city; and we may be sure, he observes, that the -aqueduct cannot very well be older than the ground -it stands upon.</p> - -<p class="c017">At Acra they found the consul, who had politely -delayed his departure to the last moment in order -to give them time to arrive; and next morning continued -their journey in his company. Crossing the -river Belus, on whose banks glass is said to have -been first manufactured, and making across the plain -towards the foot of Carmel, they entered the narrow -valley through which the ancient Kishon, famous -for the destruction of Sisera’s host, rolls its waters -towards the sea. After threading for many hours -the mazes of this narrow valley, they issued forth -towards evening upon the plains of Esdraelon sprinkled -with Arab flocks and tents, and in the distance -beheld the famous mounts of Tabor and Hermon, -and the sacred site of Nazareth. Here they learned<span class="pageno" id="Page_314">314</span> -the full force of the Psalmist’s poetical allusions to -the “dews of Hermon,” for in the morning they -found their tents as completely drenched by it as if -it had rained all night.</p> - -<p class="c017">Paying the customary tribute to the Arabs as they -passed, they proceeded on their way, their eyes resting -at every step on some celebrated spot: Samaria, -Sichem, mounts Ebal and Gerizim, places rendered -venerable by the wanderings of prophets and patriarchs, -but hallowed in a more especial manner by -the footsteps of Christ. They now began to enter -upon a more rocky and mountainous country, and -passing by the spot where Jacob saw angels ascending -and descending, “in the vision of God,” and -Beer, supposed to be the Michmas of the Scriptures, -to which Jonathan fled from the revenge of his -brother Abimelech, arrived at the summit of a hill, -whence Rama, anciently Gibeah of Saul, the plain of -Jericho, the mountains of Gilead, and Jerusalem -itself were visible in one magnificent panorama.</p> - -<p class="c017">Being in the Holy City, which no man, whether -believer or unbeliever, can visit without the most -profound emotion, Maundrell enjoyed unrestrainedly -the romantic delight of living where Christ had lived -and died, which to a high-minded religious man must -be one of the noblest pleasures which travelling can -afford. They resided, during their stay, at the Latin -convent, visiting the various places which are supposed -to possess any interest for pilgrims; such as -the church of the Sepulchre, on Mount Calvary, the -grotto of Jeremiah, the sepulchres of the kings, and -the other famous places within the precincts or in -the vicinity of the city.</p> - -<p class="c017">Four days after their arrival they set out in company -with about two thousand pilgrims of both sexes -and of all nations, conducted by the mosselim, or -governor of the city, to visit the river Jordan. Going -out of the city by the gate of St. Stephen, they -crossed the valley of Jehoshaphat, with part of Mount<span class="pageno" id="Page_315">315</span> -Olivet, passed through Bethany, and arrived at that -mountain wilderness to which Christ was taken -forth to be tempted by the Devil. Here some terrible -convulsion of nature appears to have shattered -and rent in pieces the foundations of the everlasting -hills, swallowing up the summits, and thrusting up -in their stead the bases and substructions, as it were, -of the mighty masses. In the depths of a valley -which traversed this “land of desolation, waste and -wild,” were discovered the ruins of numerous cottages -and hermits’ cells, many ascetics having formerly -retired to this dreary region to waste away -their lives in solitary penance. From the top of -this mountain, however, the travellers enjoyed a -prospect of extraordinary diversity, comprehending -the mountains of Arabia, the Dead Sea, and the Plain -of Jericho, into the last of which they descended in -about five hours from the time of their leaving Jerusalem.</p> - -<p class="c017">In this plain they saw the fountain of Elisha, -shaded by a broad-spreading tree. Jericho itself -had dwindled into a small wretched village, inhabited -by Arabs; and the plain beyond it, extending to the -Jordan, appeared to be blasted by the breath of -sterility, producing nothing but a species of samphire, -and similar stunted marine plants. Here and there, -where thin sheets of water, now evaporated by the -rays of the sun, had formerly spread themselves -over the marshy soil, a saline efflorescence, white -and glittering like a crust of snow, met the eye; and -the whole valley of the Jordan, all the way to the -Dead Sea, appeared to be impregnated with that -mineral. They found this celebrated river, which -in old times overflowed its banks, to be a small -stream not above twenty yards in breadth, which, to -borrow the words of the traveller, seemed to have -forgotten its former greatness, there being no sign -or probability of its rising, though the time, the -30th of March, was the proper season of the<span class="pageno" id="Page_316">316</span> -inundation. On the contrary, its waters ran at least -two yards below the brink of its channel.</p> - -<p class="c017">Proceeding onwards towards the Dead Sea, they -passed over an undulating plain, in some places rising -into hillocks, resembling those places in England -where there have formerly been limekilns, and which -may possibly have been the scene of the overthrow -of the kings of Sodom and Gomorrah recorded in -Genesis. On approaching the Dead Sea, they observed -that on the east and west it was hemmed in -by mountains of vast height, between whose barren -ridges it stretched away, like a prodigious canal, farther -than the eye could reach towards the south. -On the north its limpid and transparent waters rattled -along a bed of black pebbles, which being held over -the flame of a candle quickly kindle, and, without -being consumed, emit a black smoke of intolerable -stench. Immense quantities of similar stones are -said to be found in the sulphureous hills bordering -upon the lake. None of the bitumen which the -waves of this sea occasionally disgorge was then to -be found, although it was reported that both on the -eastern and western shores it might be gathered in -great abundance at the foot of the mountains. The -structures of fable with which tradition and “superstitious -idle-headed Eld” had surrounded this famous -sea vanished, like the false waters of the desert, upon -examination. No malignant vapours ascended from -the surface of the waves, carrying death to the birds -which might attempt to fly over it. On the contrary, -several birds amused themselves in hovering -about and over the sea, and the shells of fish were -found among the pebbles on the shore. Those apples -of Sodom which, “atra et inania velut in cinerem -vanescunt,” according to the expression of Tacitus, -for a thousand years have furnished poets with -comparisons and similes, were found, like many -other beautiful things, to flourish only in song; there -being in the neighbourhood of the lake no trees upon<span class="pageno" id="Page_317">317</span> -which they could grow. The surprising force of the -water, which according to the great historian of -Rome sustained the weight even of those who had -not learned to buoy themselves up by art, was in a -great measure found to exist, and subsequent experiments -appear to support the opinion.</p> - -<p class="c017">Returning thence to Jerusalem, and visiting Bethlehem -and the other holy places in its vicinity, they -at length departed on the 15th of April for Nazareth, -which they found to be an inconsiderable village on -the summit of a hill. Their road then lay through -their former track until they struck off to the right -through a defile of Mount Lebanon, entered the valley -of Bocat, and emerged through a gorge of Anti-Libanus -into the plain of Damascus, which, watered -by “Abana and Pharphar, lucid streams,” unfolded -itself before the eye in all that voluptuous beauty -glittering in a transparent atmosphere which intoxicated -the soul of the Arabian prophet, and caused -him to pronounce it too generative of delight. The -somewhat colder imagination of Maundrell was -strongly moved by the view of this incomparable -landscape. The City of the Sun (for such is the signification -of its oriental name) lifted up its gilded -domes, slender minarets, and tapering kiosks amid -a forest of deep verdure; while gardens luxuriant in -beauty, and wafting gales of the richest fragrance -through the air, covered the plain for thirty miles -around the city. The interior of the city was -greatly inferior to its environs, and disappointed the -traveller.</p> - -<p class="c017">From Damascus, where they saw the Syrian caravan, -commanded by the Pasha of Tripoli, and consisting -of an army of pilgrims mounted on camels -and quaintly-caparisoned horses, depart for Mecca, -they proceeded to Baalbec, where they arrived on -the 5th of May. The magnificent ruins of this city -were then far less dilapidated than they are at present, -and called forth a corresponding degree of admiration<span class="pageno" id="Page_318">318</span> -from the travellers. The site of Baalbec, -on the cool side of a valley, between two lofty ridges -of mountains, is highly salubrious and beautiful; and -the creations of art which formerly adorned it were -no way inferior (and this is the highest praise the -works of man can receive!) to the beauties which nature -eternally reproduces in those delicious regions. -Time and the Ottomans, however, have shown that -they are less durable.</p> - -<p class="c017">When a place affords nothing for the contemplation -of curiosity but the wrecks of former ages, it -usually detains the footsteps of the traveller but a -short time; and accordingly Maundrell and his companions -quitted Baalbec early next morning, and, -penetrating through the snowy defiles of Mount Lebanon -into the maritime plains of Syria, arrived in two -days at Tripoli. From hence, on the 9th of May, -Maundrell departed with a guide to visit the famous -cedars so frequently alluded to in the Scriptures, and -which, from the prodigious longevity of the tree, -may be those which the poets and prophets of Israel -viewed with so much admiration. The extreme -brevity of the original narrative permits us to describe -this excursion in the traveller’s own words:—“Having -gone for three hours across the plain of -Tripoli, I arrived,” says he, “at the foot of Libanus; -and from thence continually ascending, not without -great fatigue, came in four hours and a half to a -small village called Eden, and in two hours and a -half more to the cedars.</p> - -<p class="c017">“These noble trees grow among the snow, near -the highest part of Lebanon, and are remarkable as -well for their own age and largeness as for those frequent -allusions made to them in the Word of God. -Here are some of them very old and of a prodigious -bulk, and others younger of a smaller size. Of the -former I could reckon up only sixteen, and the latter -are very numerous. I measured one of the largest, -and found it twelve yards six inches in girth, and yet<span class="pageno" id="Page_319">319</span> -sound, and thirty-seven yards in the spread of its -boughs. At about five or six yards from the ground -it was divided into five limbs, each of which was -equal to a great tree.”</p> - -<p class="c017">Descending the mountain, and rejoining his friends -at Tripoli, they departed thence together; and returning -by the same road which they had pursued in -their journey to Jerusalem, they arrived in a few -days at Aleppo without accident or peril. Such is -the history of that brief excursion, which, being ably -and honestly described, has justly ranked Maundrell -among celebrated travellers. The date of his death -I have been unable to discover. This journey has -been translated into several modern languages, and -is held in no less estimation abroad than at home.</p> - -<div class="nf-center-c0"> -<div class="nf-center c004"> - <div>END OF VOL. I.</div> - </div> -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin-top:4em'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LIVES OF CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS, VOL. I. (OF 3) ***</div> -<div style='text-align:left'> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Updated editions will replace the previous one—the old editions will -be renamed. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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