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+This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements,
+metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be
+in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES.
+
+Procedures for determining public domain status are described in
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+
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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #68575 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/68575)
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-The Project Gutenberg eBook of The violin and the art of its
-construction, by August Riechers
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and
-most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms
-of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you
-will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before
-using this eBook.
-
-Title: The violin and the art of its construction
- a treatise on the Stradivarius violin
-
-Author: August Riechers
-
-Release Date: July 20, 2022 [eBook #68575]
-
-Language: English
-
-Produced by: The Online Distributed Proofreading Team at
- https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images
- generously made available by The Internet Archive)
-
-*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE VIOLIN AND THE ART OF ITS
-CONSTRUCTION ***
-
-
-
-
-
- THE VIOLIN
-
- AND THE ART OF ITS CONSTRUCTION.
-
- A Treatise on the Stradivarius Violin
-
- by
-
- AUGUST RIECHERS,
-
- Bow and Violin Maker.
-
- [Copyright of the German and English Editions.]
-
- With four lithographed plates.
-
-
- GOETTINGEN.
- CARL SPIELMEYER’S NACHFOLGER.
- FRANZ WUNDER.
- 1895.
-
- Copyright entered at Stationers Hall, London.
-
-
-
-
- To his highly revered Friend and Patron
-
- DR. JOSEPH JOACHIM
-
- this work is humbly dedicated
-
- by
-
- THE AUTHOR.
-
-
-
-
-PREFACE.
-
-
-The highly esteemed author of this treatise, a renowned violin maker
-and clever repairer, of old instruments, having been denied the
-pleasure of publishing the same himself, death intervening on January
-4th, 1893, his work on the violin and the art of its construction is
-now published, in accordance with his last wishes.
-
-This treatise will, no doubt, be all the more welcome to professionals
-and amateurs alike, as to my knowledge no such work has yet been
-published treating the subject in such an able and thorough manner.
-
-May, therefore, the valuable labours of the deceased author meet with
-that universal acknowledgment, which in a very high degree they deserve.
-
- _Göttingen_, April 1895.
-
- The Editor.
-
-
-
-
-Index.
-
-
- Introduction Page 7
-
- I. Of the Wood ” 10
-
- II. Of the Construction ” 11
-
- III. The Ribs ” 12
-
- IV. The Back and Edges ” 12
-
- V. The Belly ” 13
-
- VI. The Arching ” 13
-
- VII. The Purfling ” 14
-
- VIII. Working-out the Thicknesses of the Belly and Back ” 15
-
- IX. The F-holes ” 16
-
- X. The Bass-bar ” 16
-
- XI. The Head or Neck ” 18
-
- XII. The Dimensions, Length of Neck and Body ” 18
-
- XIII. The Finger-board and Nut ” 21
-
- XIV. The Position of the Neck ” 21
-
- XV. The Tail-piece ” 22
-
- XVI. The Pegs ” 24
-
- XVII. The Bridge ” 24
-
- XVIII. The Sound-post ” 25
-
- XIX. The Strings ” 27
-
- XX. The Varnish ” 28
-
- XXI. The Cleaning and Care of the Violin ” 32
-
- XXII. The Bow ” 32
-
-
-
-
-INTRODUCTION.
-
-
-In giving publicity to this treatise on the construction of the violin,
-I believe I am only meeting the wishes of many, both professionals and
-amateurs, who are desirous of learning more particulars concerning the
-construction of their instruments, but am also giving a few practical
-hints to my younger comrades in the art of violin-making. I hope also
-to induce some of my older colleagues to give forth other works of the
-same kind, which may serve to ennoble and promote our art.
-
-Times without number I have been asked by friends of the violin, during
-my 40 years’ work as a violin maker, to recommend books giving more
-exact information on the construction of that instrument, but the only
-answer that I have been able to give has been that German technical
-literature on the subject is very meagre, and that information from
-foreign works is mostly impoverished by feeble translations.
-
-Very few authors understand the general build of the violin thoroughly,
-they pay most attention to individual points, those most calculated
-to attract the attention of amateurs; for example, the proportions of
-single parts, their size, etc. There is only one work I can recommend
-which forms an exception to this rule and that is “The Memoirs of
-Antonio Bagatella” (Padua 1786) which has been published in a German
-translation by Franz Wunder at Göttingen.
-
-It contains not only rules for the construction of violins, violas,
-violincellos and basses, as well as distinct instructions for the
-restoration of the outline of the belly and back of these instruments,
-but also enters into particulars concerning the adjustment and
-renovation of the same.
-
-Just as the celebrated violin makers of the last century took the
-work of Amati as their model, I have found my master, to whom I, in
-common with all my colleagues, look up with admiration, recognising in
-him not only the gifted artist, but also the industrious workman and
-far-sighted observer--I mean Antonio Stradivarius. Even as a boy I was
-very fond of listening to the tales told me by my father, who was a
-musician in Hanover and as an autodidact occupied himself with violin
-work, tales in which he described to me the wonderful productions
-of the old Italian masters and more particularly those of Amati,
-Stradivarius, and Guarnerius. He regarded it as a great distinction
-shewn to him, and often referred to the fact, that he was allowed
-to open and repair the Guarnerius violin of Paganini. After a time,
-however, he altered his tone and cursed the Italian as well as his
-violin, for the great artist, although he praised my father’s work and
-expressed himself perfectly satisfied with it, objected to the payment
-of three Thalers for the repairs, considering it an exorbitant charge,
-and this, coupled with similar experiences at the hands of others, so
-incensed my father that he would not give his consent to my earnest
-wish to enter the violin factory; consequently I was apprenticed at the
-age of 13 years to a pianoforte manufacturer with whom I remained for
-two years, in spite of having shown aptitude in the other direction by
-constructing a violin with my own hands at the age of 12 years.
-
-Being released from my apprenticeship at the beginning of my fifteenth
-year, I wandered away to Markneukirchen, there to study violin-making
-under Hans Ficker; later on I was occupied for a longer period as
-assistant to Ludwig Bausch, senior, in Leipsic, to whom I owe a great
-deal, for he strengthened me in my love of the art and settled my
-belief in the unequalled excellence of Stradivarius. My admiration for
-this great master increased even more and more, and in my fifteenth
-year, when I began to work for myself in Hanover, I learned even
-more of his works and had the happiness to find that my reverence
-for him was shared by my friend and patron Dr. Joseph Joachim. Ten
-years later, the latter exchanged Hanover for Berlin, and as I was
-no longer contented in the former town after his departure in 1872,
-I gladly responded to a call from him to prosecute my work in the
-Prussian capital and to continue to study the works of Stradivarius,
-in order to handle them more worthily and to infuse his ideas into my
-own productions. I venture to hope that I have succeeded in the first
-part of my undertaking, for, a great number of instruments have passed
-through my hands in the course of years, including the incomparable
-violins belonging to Dr. Joachim. The second part of my task I do
-not consider accomplished. I am ever taking more and more trouble in
-working, in the hope of bringing my attempt nearer and nearer to the
-hitherto unattained excellence of Stradivarius. I therefore beg my
-readers to regard the following chapters with a favourable eye and
-to accept them in a friendly spirit as the result of long years of
-experience, the confirmation or rectification of which I shall accept
-with joy.
-
-
-
-
-I. OF THE WOOD.
-
-
-There can be no doubt whatever that a correct knowledge and choice of
-the wood for the construction of violins is of the utmost importance.
-Both these qualifications, however, can only be gained by experience,
-since that alone can prove which kind of wood is the most suitable and
-produces the best results.
-
-The back, the ribs, the neck, and the head should be of maple, and
-neither too hard, nor too soft, nor yet too deeply grained. In every
-case light wood should be selected, and I consider Hungarian maple the
-best for the purpose. For the belly, the so-called white fir or pine
-should be used, as both kinds of wood possess sufficient resonance, and
-are easily manipulated. These woods too must be as light as possible,
-and should have neither very narrow nor very broad, but regular and
-well-formed concentric circles. The Tyrol and the neighbouring cantons
-of Switzerland produce the best wood for this purpose. It is to be
-observed that the pieces used must be split and not cut.
-
-In my opinion, the much praised American pine is too soft and
-resinous, and neither do I consider the American maple qualified for
-the construction of violins. The wood used by myself is obtained from
-Schoenbach, near Eger, in Bohemia, where large supplies for the needs
-of instrument makers are always on hand to be selected from. The age
-of the wood I consider of only very small importance; if it has been
-laying by for five years, ready cut or split, as the case may be, for
-the construction of a violin, it will then be sufficiently dry and will
-need no further preparation. I have exactly ascertained the weight
-of wood which had been laid by for drying for five years, and then,
-having weighed it again at the end of twenty years, have found it had
-not become perceptibly lighter. All the violins made by me, some 1600
-instruments, have always weighed from 260 to 275 grammes, without the
-pegs, finger-board, and tail-piece, a weight which I have generally
-found to be that of the violins constructed by Stradivarius.
-
-
-
-
-II. OF THE CONSTRUCTION.
-
-
-For the space of thirty years I have worked upon the plan of
-Stradivarius solely, for I consider that his instruments and their
-proportions are the most perfect that can be found. Why, therefore,
-should I have taken any other as my model? I have repaired at least
-three hundred undoubtedly genuine violins constructed by this great
-master, besides having seen and handled many others, and consequently
-have had frequent opportunities of thoroughly studying his work, and of
-gauging and copying his most beautiful instruments. As the creations
-of this incomparable maker seem perfect in every detail, I have never
-attempted to make any additions of my own, but have strictly adhered to
-specimens produced by him in his prime (1700 to 1720) as my models, and
-have found that they differ but very slightly from one another. In Fig.
-1., I have given the outlines of a violin of this period (1713) with
-the blocks.
-
-
-
-
-III. THE RIBS (Fig. 1. a).
-
-
-The ribs should be 1¹⁄₂ m/m. thick, and very neatly and evenly planed;
-the height should be about 30 m/m. at first. The ribs are curved to
-their correct form by means of a hot bending iron, or still better by
-a copper clew, and then glued to the blocks. After this, the ribs next
-to the back are to be made true to receive the linings. The latter must
-be 8 m/m. high, 2¹⁄₂ m/m. thick, and must be made of lime-wood. The
-middle linings are to be let into the blocks, so that they cannot break
-loose. The blocks must also be made of lime-wood. The edges of the ribs
-and the surface of the rim, before being glued on to the prepared back,
-must again be very carefully adjusted, so that they appear like one
-even surface. This being done, the superfluous wood of the blocks must
-be cut away to the shape of the mould (_see_ Fig. 5). The ribs from the
-bottom block to the side blocks are then regulated to a height of about
-30 m/m., and from the side blocks to the top block (Fig. 3) they are
-gradually decreased by 2¹⁄₂ m/m., that is, until 27¹⁄₂ m/m. is reached.
-This diminution in the height is most practically thought out and
-executed by Stradivarius, the belly obtaining thereby a tension which
-offers the necessary resistance to the neck. The upper linings must be
-adjusted to the ribs in the same way, and as a matter of course, they
-must be curved to the shape of the ribs. The superfluous wood of the
-blocks being cut away, the mould is removed.
-
-
-
-
-IV. THE BACK AND EDGES.
-
-
-It is not of importance whether the back be made in one or two pieces;
-nevertheless, Stradivarius seems to have given the preference to a
-divided back. I also consider it more advantageous, as, being joined,
-it offers greater resistance, and is not so easily pressed outwards on
-the sound-post side, as is the case with violins having the back cut in
-one piece. The edges of the mid-rib and corners should be 4 m/m. thick,
-whereas the upper and lower edges of the back (Fig. 1 ee/ee), gradually
-decreasing from the corners, become 1 m/m. thinner.
-
-
-
-
-V. THE BELLY.
-
-
-The belly must be composed of two parts, and has to be joined together
-so exactly that the narrow year-rings are in the middle of the same;
-the outer ring which should not be more than 2 m/m. broad and very
-equally disposed, may run towards the edges. The edges must be of the
-same thickness as those of the back.
-
-
-
-
-VI. THE ARCHING.
-
-
-It does not seem to me probable that Stradivarius acted without
-mature deliberation in making the arch of the back and belly, taken
-together, of the same height as the ribs, viz.: 30 m/m.; of course,
-I am speaking now of the violins made during his prime. If the back
-and belly are placed one upon the other, the height will amount to 30
-m/m., the entire external diameter, therefore, must be 60 m/m., since
-the ribs, as already stated, have a height of 30 m/m. I am certainly
-of the opinion, that Stradivarius substantiated these proportions
-by experiments. There are, however, exceptions; the greatest of the
-deviations from this rule which has come under my notice, consisted in
-the middle line measuring 70 m/m., reckoning from the upper edge of the
-belly to the lower edge of the back. No doubt, this violin, made in
-1710, was an experiment, the average measurement being considered to
-be from 58 to 62 m/m. Now and again, Stradivarius made the arch lower,
-whether intentionally or from want of wood, I am not in a position to
-say. In this case he makes the ribs correspondingly higher, so that
-the above-mentioned measurement may still be 60 m/m. Stradivarius has
-also occasionally made the arch of the back less than 15 m/m., and by
-way of compensation, in this case, has increased the arch of the belly.
-I am of opinion, however, that these deviations are to be ascribed
-more to experiment than to accident. He never trusted to chance in
-his work, but in the most careful way reflected upon it and took into
-consideration all circumstances in connection with it. The arch given
-as an example in Fig. 6, is taken from a Stradivarius violin of the
-year 1713, and as the belly and back are both of equal height, viz.: 15
-m/m., the entire height amounts to 60 m/m.
-
-
-
-
-VII. THE PURFLING.
-
-
-The purfling is always placed 4 m/m. from the edge and is 1¹⁄₂ m/m.
-wide. It consists of three parts, the two outermost of which are
-prepared from maple and stained black, while the middle part is made of
-the same kind of wood, but unstained. It is of the utmost importance
-that the purfling should only be inserted to the depth of one-third
-of the thickness of the edges, otherwise the edge will very easily
-break off. In the work of Stradivarius, one finds continually on the
-back, both above and below, a peg of maple-wood, by means of which he
-fastened the back to the block, and the half of this peg is inserted
-in the purfling. In violins having a divided back, one finds another
-purfling on the bottom block, along the joint of the ribs, but with
-backs made in one piece it scarcely ever occurs, because then the under
-ribs, as far as the middle rib, are prepared in one piece. The purfling
-is not to be regarded as an embellishment, as many suppose it is. It
-considerably strengthens the back and the belly towards the edges, and
-at the same time offers a protection, especially for the belly, against
-cracks, if the instrument, for example, should be opened for repairs
-by an inexperienced workman. I will even go so far as to assert that
-if the purfling were not employed, old violins could not exist without
-numberless cracks, for any violent blow would cause cracks, without
-the additional strength given by the purfling, and the greater number
-of old and costly violins would come down to us spoilt, or at least
-damaged.
-
-The purfling also has this advantage that if perchance the edges get
-broken off, they can easily be replaced and the good appearance of the
-instrument restored without much trouble.
-
-
-
-
-VIII. WORKING-OUT THE THICKNESSES OF THE BELLY AND BACK.
-
-
-The thickness of the breast in the back amounts to 4 m/m. at the spot
-where the sound-post stands and remains the same to a distance of 50
-m/m. towards the bottom block, and 60 m/m. towards the upper block,
-while it decreases to 3 m/m. towards the middle rib. The cheeks must
-be 1 to 2 m/m. thick. I have assured myself by numberless measurements
-that Stradivarius often changed the thickness of the back; and has even
-gone so far as to make it 6 m/m., while the belly which he made from
-the soundest and most perfect wood, with very evenly disposed grain,
-measured always exactly 2¹⁄₂ m/m.
-
-
-
-
-IX. THE F-HOLES.
-
-
-A well-formed and proportioned F has a great deal to do with enhancing
-the appearance of a violin. The F represented in Fig. 7 is a most
-perfect specimen of what it should be. Anyone wishing to cut the
-F-holes in the belly, should take Fig. 7 and place it in such a way
-that the line a/a be exactly 195 m/m. from the outer and upper edge,
-and _b b_ almost upon the point of the belly. This will give the right
-position of the F-holes and at the same time the measurement of the
-body. The greatest width of the opening of the F-holes must be 6 m/m.
-The width of the breast between the two upper excisions must never be
-narrower than the width of the bridge. In the accompanying illustration
-these are very wide apart and might without disadvantage be placed 2
-m/m. nearer together. On violins where this distance of the F-holes
-is less than 40 m/m., either a narrower bridge must be used or the
-bass-bar must be cut out a little, so that the latter may lie close
-on to the upper F-hole. The lower lobes of the F-holes are always
-slanted outwards by Stradivarius, thus presenting a more symmetrical
-appearance. Both incisions are small, but clearly cut.
-
-
-
-
-X. THE BASS-BAR.
-
-
-After the F-holes have been cut out, the bass-bar can be fixed. It is
-made of pine and should be prepared in such a way that the year-rings
-lie perpendicularly to the belly. The height of the bass-bar under the
-bridge is 10 m/m. and at the two ends 4 m/m. The bass-bar must be 6
-m/m. thick in the middle, decreasing in thickness by 1 m/m. towards
-the ends. The length should be 280 m/m. The bass-bar must be glued
-on so that it lies 35 m/m. from the bottom edge and 40 m/m. from the
-upper one. In order to determine exactly the position of the beam,
-the width of the bridge should be precisely marked as 40 m/m. on the
-inside of the belly and the bass-bar should then be placed to coincide
-exactly with the G-foot of the bridge, giving it at the same time such
-a slanting position as to bring its upper end within 4 or 6 m/m. of the
-middle line of the belly, while its lower end should, on the contrary,
-be purposely placed farther away from it. (_See_ illustration).
-
-In order that the bass-bar may obtain the right tension, the side of
-it lying next the belly must be slightly curved, sufficiently so for
-both ends, before they are glued, to stand away about 2 m/m. In the
-process of glueing, the ends must be firmly pressed down. The height
-of the bass-bar under the bridge should be 8 m/m., while at the ends
-the measurement should amount to 4 m/m. It is scarcely necessary to
-remark that the proportions of the bass-bar vary in different violins,
-according as they are smaller or larger, high or flat, strong or weak.
-A few examples are given here. In a violin of the ordinary type, no
-matter whether it be large or small, the proportions will be found to
-coincide with the above statement, while a highly arched violin has
-a less slanting and less tightened beam than the latter. In the case
-of wood of a thickness less than 1¹⁄₂ m/m., the beam should be 1 to 2
-m/m. more towards the interior, and also be placed from 3 to 5 m/m.
-more slanting, and must in that case also be from 1 to 2 m/m. thicker.
-A bass-bar under strong tension gives a sharp and clear tone, while
-one of less tension gives a fuller and softer one. With bass-bars of
-the height of 12 and even 15 m/m. (so-called acoustic bass-bars), it
-is not possible to achieve any success. The fixing of the bass-bar
-completes the interior construction of the violin, and consequently the
-glueing-on of the belly can now be proceeded with.
-
-
-
-
-XI. THE HEAD OR NECK.
-
-
-In Fig. 8 we have a very beautiful model, representing as it does a
-perfect specimen of Stradivarius. Its form can be obtained by exactly
-copying the external outline and the measurements I-XV. The inner
-curve of the head must be worked out as shewn in Fig. 8 _b_. The back
-at the head (Fig. 8 _c_) should be 4 m/m. thick on the upper side and
-gradually increase by 3 m/m. towards the under side, so that at this
-point it reaches a thickness of 7 m/m. The peg-holes must be placed
-exactly as shewn in the model. If they have short heads, they can be
-placed a few millimetres nearer together from A to G without destroying
-the appearance of the instrument. The wood for the head and neck must
-always be so chosen that the grain and surface lie horizontally.
-
-
-
-
-XII. THE DIMENSIONS, LENGTH OF NECK AND BODY.
-
-
-None of the old violin makers have attached more importance to the
-right position of the F-holes than Stradivarius; hence we gather that
-he fully recognised the importance of the dimensions of the body, and
-in his violins we always find that the same measurement is retained
-between the interior incision of the F-holes and the upper edge. We
-shall see later on the great advantages that would accrue to the
-musician, if all violin makers would observe the same rules in the
-adjustment of the dimensions. I repeatedly have cut off the necks
-of hundreds of violins, and by correcting the proportions have made
-the possessors of them entirely contented. How many a student has
-drudged on through life with a badly proportioned instrument, and in
-consequence has never succeeded in obtaining that certainty on his
-instrument after which he has diligently striven. We must now, however,
-enter rather more into particulars.
-
-I hope that what is to follow, may enable everyone to judge and prove
-for himself, whether his violin has the correct dimensions or not. We
-will adhere to the measurement accepted by Stradivarius (_see_ Fig. 1
-_a a a_), which is exactly 195 m/m. from the upper edge to the incision
-of the F-hole, and call it the normal measurement. From this we learn
-that the length of the neck, that is to say, the distance from the
-lower edge of the nut (the point where the finger-board begins) to the
-upper edge of the belly (_b b_) should be exactly 130 m/m., and the
-whole length of the body should bear the same proportion to the length
-of the neck, as 195 m/m. bears to 130 m/m., or to put it still more
-plainly, if we take the total of the two lengths, namely 325 m/m., and
-divide it by five, the length of the body should be equal to three
-of these parts and that of the neck to two of them. Should a violin
-have a longer or shorter body measure than that given above, the neck
-must still be in proportion with it of two to three, that is to say,
-if the whole measure be divided into five parts, two of such parts
-will give the length of the neck. By these means, correct dimensions
-will be obtained, and a performer will easily accustom himself to the
-proportionate position of the neck, and forthwith obtain certainty of
-execution. If only the proportion of the neck to the body be correct,
-a performer will scarcely notice, whether the whole measure from the
-bridge to the upper nut is 5 to 10 m/m. longer or shorter. Great care
-must be taken in placing the upper end of the finger-board; it should
-be placed exactly at right angles with the under curve of the head
-(_a_), a point which is often paid very little attention to, and yet is
-one which is of the utmost importance. For instance, if the upper nut
-be placed too far beyond the angle (_a_), the hand must of necessity
-be stretched backwards in an uncomfortable position, or the fingers
-will fall too high upon the strings. On the other hand, if the nut be
-placed too low, the hand has no certain position upon the curve of the
-neck, and consequently will play flat in the first position and sharp
-in the third. It has often been said to me by musicians, and especially
-amateurs, that their violins played sharp in the first position and
-flat in the higher ones, and the contrary also has often come under my
-notice. The sole cause of these imperfections is the disproportionate
-relation in the length of the body and the neck, for whatever may be
-the distance between the bridge and the nut, whether long or short, the
-position of the different tones themselves is exactly determined by
-the laws of acoustics, and always remains in the same relation to the
-vibrating string.
-
-I have given in Fig. 12 the exact position of the tones on the
-A-string, according to the normal measurement of 325 m/m. given above.
-The first tone played (B flat) is always exactly the eighteenth part of
-the whole length of the string from the nut to the bridge; the second
-tone is the eighteenth part from the first tone, and so on. If the
-finger-board is 268 m/m. long, the high E on the A-string will coincide
-with the lower end of the same. The above-mentioned imperfection is
-also caused by the neck being either too long or too short; in the
-first case a performer would play too sharp in the third position, and
-too flat in the second; in the higher positions also, he would have
-difficulty in finding the correct place for the fingers.
-
-
-
-
-XIII. THE FINGER-BOARD AND NUT.
-
-
-Both these portions of the instrument must be made of ebony (Fig. 12).
-Before the finger-board is glued, the surfaces to be joined must be
-made particularly smooth. The length is 268 m/m. in an instrument of
-normal size, and in those which are longer and shorter, the necessary
-proportion is easily determined. The width of the upper end, near the
-nut, is 24 m/m., while at the lower end it measures 45 m/m.
-
-The curve at the nut should be the same as the curve of the bridge, the
-thickness being from 4 to 5 m/m. Whilst the centre of the finger-board
-should form a straight line lengthways, it must be hollowed out under
-the E-string equally to the depth of 1 m/m., and under the G-string to
-1¹⁄₂ m/m., in order to prevent the jarring and rattling of the strings.
-The thickness of the nut must be 5 m/m. on the under side and 4 m/m. on
-the upper. The distance between the two outer string-grooves must be
-from 16 to 18 m/m. The strings lie at the nut (_a_) in the case of E,
-A, and D-strings at a distance of ¹⁄₂ m/m. from the finger-board, the
-G-string 1 m/m. The thickness of the neck, including the finger-board,
-is 18 m/m. at the upper curve (Fig. 8_b_ I.) for a hand of ordinary
-size, and 24 m/m. at the lower curve (Fig. 8_b_ II); but this thickness
-can be altered according to the wish of the performer.
-
-
-
-
-XIV. THE POSITION OF THE NECK.
-
-
-The neck of the violin must be regulated according to the width of
-the finger-board. It must be cut about 7 m/m. longer than the length
-required, when in position, in order to allow for its insertion in the
-block; the entire length of the neck from the nut to the end should
-measure 135 m/m. When this has been duly arranged, the neck can be
-fitted into the block. The small semi-circular elongation of the back
-of the violin, in common with the upper block, serves principally to
-support the neck and keep it in position, at the same time giving the
-performer a correct hold.
-
-The finger-board having been glued to the neck, it is of the utmost
-importance that the latter should be fitted in very carefully, so that
-it protrude 5 m/m. from the belly (Fig. 8_e_).
-
-If the gauge be placed on the centre of the finger-board in the line
-_a a_ (Fig. I and II), the end _a_ (Fig. 9, third plate) should fall
-exactly on the line of connection between the innermost excisions of
-the F-holes, having its centre under the place where the bridge stands,
-so that the finger-board may exactly coincide with the measure.
-
-This arrangement gives us not only the correct position of the
-finger-board, but also, as we shall see later on, the right height of
-the bridge, 35 m/m., and also the suitable position of the strings
-according to their height. The measurement marked upon the gauge (Fig.
-9), viz.: from _a_ (beginning of the nut) as far as the upper edge
-of the belly _b_ (end of the neck) and thence to _a_ (place of the
-bridge) must be in such proportion to one another as to give the violin
-practical dimensions and height of bridge.
-
-
-
-
-XV. THE TAIL-PIECE (Fig. 11).
-
-
-This part of the instrument exercises a great influence on the tone,
-although the fact is doubted by a great many performers. I will
-endeavour to briefly demonstrate my idea upon the subject. In the
-first place, I would remark in reference to the shape and size of the
-tail-piece that the upper curve must resemble the curve of the bridge.
-
-The semi-circular ridge at the upper end is called the saddle and
-must project about 1 m/m. The upper and movable end of the tail-piece
-is not arranged at right angles with the middle line of the same,
-but inclines about 1¹⁄₂ m/m. towards the G-string. This is done in
-order to balance, so to speak, the crooked position of the tail-piece
-which has been occasioned by the greater tension of the E-string in
-comparison with the G-string, and also to keep the upper edge of the
-tail-piece parallel with the upper edge of the bridge, which is very
-necessary to the elegant appearance of the lower portion of the violin.
-The space between the incisions for G and E-strings should be 30 m/m.
-The length of the strings below the bridge from the upper edge of the
-same to the saddle on the tail-piece should be 55 m/m., and then the
-A-string behind the bridge will give the high E. If the proportion of
-the tail-piece to the bridge be changed, that is to say, lengthened or
-shortened by the use of a larger or smaller tail-piece with the same
-length of the tail-piece fastener, the tension of the strings also
-becomes altered, and the tone and vibrations are thereby affected.
-
-If, for instance, the tail-piece is so constructed that the portion of
-the A-string behind the bridge gives F, the other strings must also be
-correspondingly slackened, for the tension of a string reaches not only
-from the bridge to the nut as many suppose, but from the tail-piece
-to the peg. In consequence of this, the pressure of the strings on
-the instrument can be increased or lessened by means of a longer or
-shorter tail-piece, whereby the tone is correspondingly modified.
-The gut for the tail-piece should be from 1¹⁄₂ to 2 m/m. thick.
-The before-mentioned variations of tone can also be obtained by the
-lengthening or shortening of the gut of the tail-piece.
-
-The rest, over which the gut passes, must be made of ebony and be 40
-m/m. long by 5 m/m. wide, and must rise 3 m/m. from the belly. The
-button, round which the gut passes, must also be made of ebony, and has
-to be inserted into the centre of the lower block.
-
-
-
-
-XVI. THE PEGS.
-
-
-These are generally made of ebony, and care must be taken that they are
-inserted exactly in the places marked in Fig. 8. The distance of the
-pegs from the upper edge of the outer side of the violin head should
-not be more than 10 m/m. The holes in the pegs, through which the
-strings pass, should be 2 m/m. from the inside of the head. The outer
-ends of the pegs should be level with the sides of the head and be
-slightly rounded off.
-
-
-
-
-XVII. THE BRIDGE (Fig. 10).
-
-
-The bridge is made of maple and should be 40 m/m. wide and 35 m/m.
-high, at the bottom it should be 4 m/m. thick, on the top 1¹⁄₂ m/m. The
-width of the feet is not to exceed 9¹⁄₂ m/m. (Fig. 10 _a_).
-
-The feet must be fitted exactly to the belly and towards the back
-should be sloped sufficiently, so that on the lower side of the bridge
-they form an exact right-angle with the centre line of the belly.
-
-It is advisable to powder the feet a little with chalk to prevent the
-bridge from being so easily displaced as would otherwise be the case.
-
-The feet of the bridge should stand exactly on the line of connection
-between the notches of the F-holes (Fig. 7 _a a_) and at an equal
-distance from them on either side. The notches on the bridge for the E
-and G-strings are to be 34 m/m. apart.
-
-The lower end of the E-string should not be more than 4 m/m. from the
-finger-board at the very most, that of the G-string about 6 m/m., but
-never more. The height of the strings is, however, very often adjusted
-to the wish of the performer. Herr Joachim, the great violinist, always
-adopts the above measurements on his violins.
-
-A highly arched violin does not require so high a bridge as a flatter
-one, whilst an instrument with a thin belly needs a thicker bridge
-than one of stronger make. These proportions must be carried out very
-precisely, as well as the measurements with regard to the hardness or
-softness of the wood and the strength or weakness of the bridge.
-
-If the bridge be thick below and thin above, the tone will be clearer
-than it would be if these conditions were reversed. If the heart in the
-bridge be cut rather small and high up, the tone is rendered harder,
-a large heart cut in the surface of the bridge will make the tone
-fuller. The use of hard wood for the belly necessitates soft wood for
-the bridge, and loosely grained and soft wood needs a hard wood for the
-latter.
-
-
-
-
-XVIII. THE SOUND-POST.
-
-
-The sound-post must be made of pine; in a violin with a belly of normal
-thickness its diameter should be 6 m/m. and show by its year-rings an
-age from 10 to 12 years. With a thicker belly it should be made about
-1 m/m. less in diameter. It must also be shaped so that both ends
-exactly fit the arch of the violin. When the sound-post has been placed
-in position, its year-rings should be at right angles with those of the
-belly, and furthermore, it should be of such a height as to raise the
-belly ¹⁄₂ m/m.
-
-The sound-post must be placed upon the belly under the outer edge of
-the E-string foot of the bridge, but it should rest upon the back from
-2 to 4 m/m. nearer the centre. In its normal position the sound-post
-must be placed nearer to the tail-piece than the bridge by about 2¹⁄₂
-m/m., that is to say, by about the thickness of the belly.
-
-If one wishes to procure any other tone than that obtained by the
-above-mentioned position, the latter should not be altered, at most,
-by more than 1 to 2 m/m. A sound-post only ¹⁄₂ m/m. longer, renders
-the tone sharper and thinner, while if it be approached nearer the
-bridge, the tone becomes clearer and more acute. If the sound-post be
-moved more towards the centre of the instrument, the G-string sounds
-clearer and firmer, but the E-string on the other hand grows slacker
-and softer; if the sound-post be moved from its normal position about 1
-m/m. further below the bridge, the tone will be softer, but at the same
-time more muffled.
-
-I should like to warn very strongly all performers, whether
-professionals or amateurs, against attempting to alter the position of
-either the sound-post or the bridge themselves, for such attempts will
-in most cases be endless, and very seldom lead to the desired end. I
-could adduce proofs of this in many cases, but I will give only one
-here by way of example. The celebrated violinist Ole Bull who, after
-the loss of all his property in America in the year 1860, took up his
-residence with me in Hanover, could not play for an hour together,
-without experimenting with his violin, it having become a perfect
-passion with him to be always altering the position of the bridge and
-the sound-post. Indeed, these experiments often lasted until quite a
-short time before the beginning of a concert, and usually ended with
-a malediction on himself and his otherwise precious “Josephi” (Joseph
-Guarnerius del Gesù).
-
-Still, I must confess that I learned a great deal from his many
-researches by dint of observation. When Ole Bull was playing at the
-Theatre in Hanover in cold weather, he always breathed a few times into
-the F-holes of his violin before the curtain rose, in order to warm the
-air in the interior of the instrument, as he was of opinion that in
-consequence the violin spoke better. He may have been right. He also
-carried E-strings in his waist-coat pocket during wet weather, because
-he maintained, and perhaps justly, that they then lasted better.
-
-
-
-
-XIX. THE STRINGS.
-
-
-It is very difficult to decide on the quality of the strings; their
-being light or dark-coloured has no influence on their durability. The
-natural colour of the strings is dark, those of a lighter shade having
-been sulphured to render them so. The Italian strings are at present
-unrivalled, but care should be taken that they do not feel too hard.
-The choice of strings according to their thickness really depends on
-personal preference, but as a rule those only of medium size should be
-chosen, which according to the French measurement of strings would be
-14 degrees for the G-string, 23 for the D-string, 14 for the A-string
-and 12 for the E-string.
-
-The larger the violin is, the weaker should be the strings. The notion
-that a half-sized violin should be thin-stringed, is quite erroneous,
-it should, on the contrary, have strings as strong as a full-sized
-violin, for owing to the shorter length, the strings, if they be a
-weak set, become too loose and do not give a true sound, and offer
-insufficient resistance under the pressure of the bow.
-
-
-
-
-XX. THE VARNISH.
-
-
-There has been for many years a warm and to a certain extent undecided
-discussion going on, as to whether the varnishes used by Italian
-violin makers were oily and slow-drying ones or spirit varnishes. To
-investigate this matter still further, and to arrive at a correct
-decision, will have to be left to the future.
-
-I am, however, of the opinion that the old masters made use of spirit
-or turpentine-oil until the middle of last century, but never of
-linseed-oil or turpentine-oil varnish, as has been often asserted.
-
-My opinion is supported by the following fact. In the year 1860 I had
-the good fortune to buy a real Nicolas Amati lute which, although very
-much knocked about, still retained a thick varnish of a most beautiful
-gold colour. For my information I took the varnish off, in order to
-submit it to the analysis of a clever chemist who, being a talented
-amateur violinist and also a pupil of Spohr, showed great interest in
-the matter and communicated to me, as the result of his investigations,
-this fact that among the quantity of varnish which I had placed at
-his command, there was not a trace of evidence which could lead to
-the conclusion that linseed-oil varnish had been employed. In my own
-researches I found that the varnish was immediately dissolved in spirit
-of only 90 per cent., while in oil of turpentine and linseed-oil it was
-scarcely affected, and by boiling only a small portion was removed.
-Again, it is not probable that Stradivarius, in whose workshops about
-3000 violins were constructed, would have employed linseed-oil varnish,
-seeing that it would have required, in each case, six months for the
-violin to get thoroughly dry.
-
-There are many resins which can be dissolved in spirit or oil of
-turpentine and used as a varnish, but the preference is generally
-given to spirit-varnish, as it dries more quickly. If the spirit or
-turpentine-oil has evaporated, only the resin remains.
-
-The greatest attention must be paid to the relative hardness of the
-resin and the wood, for both should be of equal density. Hard resin
-hinders the vibration of the wood, and consequently the quality of tone
-suffers.
-
-In my opinion shellac is quite useless for varnishing, it being much
-too hard, but nevertheless it has been employed from 1770 until the
-present day, in spite of the fact that the best Italian instrument
-might be completely ruined by being varnished with it. In all
-Italian instruments the old varnish is always very porous and soft,
-and can easily be dissolved by the application of spirit, while,
-on the contrary, it requires great labour to effect the same with
-turpentine-oil.
-
-Many people affirm that the art of mixing the old Italian varnish which
-so charms us with its brilliancy and transparency, is no longer known,
-in fact that it is for ever lost. I am, however, of a different opinion
-and maintain that our modern varnishes are quite equal to the old, but
-what we have until now been unable to produce scientifically, is the
-golden-brown underground which the wood of older violins has acquired
-through age and other influences. The proof of this I have practically
-demonstrated by varnishing old instruments with new varnish, in
-imitation, with such success as to arouse the wonder of connoisseurs,
-the varnish being quite as transparent and brilliant-coloured as that
-used for violins in the last century.
-
-To one other point I should like to call the attention of the reader.
-In repairing old instruments of the time of Stradivarius, I have found
-that an extraordinary cleanliness and lustre is obtained by rubbing
-them with fine glass-paper, which is not the case with Tyrolean and
-German violins of the same period. At a later period this peculiarity
-was not met with so frequently and from the year 1750 not at all.
-This fact I primarily attribute to the action of the resin on the
-wood, being also of opinion that the fine dust of the same gets firmly
-embedded in the pores of the wood, and in this way, in course of time,
-a more or less thick coating is formed.
-
-For one of these practical experiments I took a violin which I had
-made myself and the tone of which, through years of constant use,
-was therefore quite familiar to me, and gave it a coating of melted
-resin on the inside. After this was thoroughly dry and hardened, I
-polished the interior and remarked the before-mentioned smoothness
-and brilliancy, the obtaining of which firmly convinced me that I had
-discovered the truth of the matter. Although, after the glueing-on of
-the belly, all the former conditions of the violin remained unchanged,
-yet I was astonished to find what a common-place squeaking tone the
-instrument had acquired, thus proving to me that with the melted resin
-I had obtained in the end exactly the opposite effect to that which
-I had hoped for. I was obliged to rest contented with my failure for
-a long time, when a lucky chance came to my help. It was this. I
-received a real Caspar da Salo violoncello to repair, which had never
-been opened and seemed to have been very little played upon, for on it
-I found an old bridge which I kept as an ornament and curiosity, and
-which, on closer examination, I found was varnished.
-
-When I opened the cello, it was proved without a doubt that the
-interior had also received a coating, probably to protect it from dust,
-etc. The celebrated old violin makers, in so doing, have pursued the
-right course. This discovery also corroborated my own supposition,
-that the old masters varnished both the interior and bridge of the
-instruments they made.
-
-Now, in order to obtain a ground-priming, I paint the violin, when
-the wood of which it is constructed is in its natural state, three
-times with pyroligneous acid, with which a golden-brown underground
-is obtained, then follows a single coating of spirit and balsam of
-Peru in equal proportions, and after this one or two coats of a weak
-solution of gamboge or anotta, and finally, over all this I lay on 20
-or 30 coats of varnish, according to the thickness required, and which
-I prepare as follows:--
-
-Dissolve three parts of sandarac and one of mastic in spirit, and in
-order that it may be laid on more easily, add to each half a litre[1]
-of varnish, ten drops of oil of turpentine. The colouring of the
-varnish I obtain from turmeric and bright red sandal-wood by means
-of spirit, using more or less of it, according as to the lighter or
-darker tone required; if a brown varnish is required, some soot from
-turpentine-oil must be added to the spirit.
-
-I have made innumerable experiments with other resins and colouring
-matters, but in the end I always return to those mentioned above as the
-best to be used. Dragon’s-blood must not be employed, the colour not
-being fast.
-
-When the varnish is dry, it must be very carefully polished with finely
-powdered pumice-stone and linseed-oil, applied with a piece of felt.
-
-[1] Half a litre is very little less than a pint.
-
-
-
-
-XXI. THE CLEANING AND CARE OF THE VIOLIN.
-
-
-The instrument must always be kept thoroughly clean and after use
-should be carefully wiped with a silken duster. If any dirt should
-adhere to it in spite of this precaution, it can be easily removed by
-gently rubbing it with a piece of linen, moistened with water, and
-afterwards wiping it over with oil of turpentine. The resin which
-accumulates on the finger-board and strings can in case of necessity be
-removed by the application of a little spirit, or better still, by that
-of Eau de Cologne, but great care must be taken in the application, so
-that the spirit does not touch the varnish of the belly. Spirit will
-also clean the strings and remove from them the effect of perspiration;
-the bridge may also be cleaned with it from time to time, but as stated
-before, it must be done cautiously, especially in the case of old and
-valuable instruments of the time of Stradivarius. The more recently
-constructed violins are mostly varnished with shellac, and consequently
-are not at all or, at most, very little affected by the application of
-spirit.
-
-The interior of a violin should also sometimes be cleaned; this can be
-done by putting through the F-holes two or three handsfull of coarse
-kitchen salt; these should then be covered with a cloth and the salt
-well shaken about, as it will thus collect all the dust, resin and
-other dirt which may be in the violin, and when shaken out will carry
-all these impurities with it. The strings need not be taken off in
-order to effect this.
-
-
-
-
-XXII. THE BOW.
-
-
-The rank of François Tourte among violin-bow makers is as prominent a
-one as that of Stradivarius among violin makers. Each has supplemented
-the other. Tourte died in Paris in the year 1835 at the age of 88,
-after a life of usefulness almost as long as that of Stradivarius. He
-brought the making of bows for stringed instruments to such perfection,
-that those bow makers who have succeeded him, have never deviated very
-far from the models he left.
-
-I shall here make a few observations on the characteristics of real
-Tourte bows which have crossed my path.
-
-The quality, as well as money value, of a bow seems entirely to depend
-upon its shape, whether the stick is round or angular. The whole length
-of the bow from the point to the end of the nut should be 73 to 74
-centimetres. The length of the hair from the lower part of the head to
-the nut should measure 63 to 64 centimetres; the height of the head,
-including the stick and little plate, should be 23 m/m.; the height of
-the nut with the stem to the outer ring where the hair begins 26 m/m.;
-the breadth of the hair on the nut should be 11 m/m. and on the head 10
-m/m. Tourte used from 80 to 100 hairs for each bow, but now from 150 to
-160 are taken.
-
-The stick is made of pernambuco-wood and the nut of ebony; tortoise
-shell is however sometimes used for the latter. The decoration may
-be in German silver, silver or gold, according to the taste of the
-possessor.
-
-The stick must be cut straight and lengthwise with the year-rings, and
-is manipulated in such a way that the side-view of the bow shows the
-horizontal lines. In this condition the prepared stick must be held
-over a charcoal fire, be gradually and equally heated, until it can be
-scarcely retained in the hand, and then it must immediately be bent
-across the knee to such a degree, as to allow the hair of the finished
-bow to lie upon the stick. To accomplish this successfully, a certain
-amount of practice and caution is required. The weight of a bow when
-finished should not exceed 54 to 57 grammes.
-
-Tourte never polished nor varnished his bows, but only rubbed them
-smooth with pumice-stone and linseed-oil. If varnish or polish of any
-kind is ever found on one of his bows, it has been put there by other
-hands than his.
-
-It has often been asserted that Tourte only left the bows unpolished
-and unvarnished from indifference, and I must confess that I also was
-once inclined to this opinion until experience taught me better. About
-30 years ago I bought a beautiful Tourte bow which I handed to Herr
-Joachim to test.
-
-It seemed to him a little too heavy and I, in my want of experience,
-imagined that I could easily meet the wish for diminished weight by
-a little work. I therefore commenced to work with a file upon this
-master-piece, but I found the outer layer of the wood as hard as iron,
-so that I had a great deal of trouble to lessen the circumference of
-the stick. This circumstance surprised me at the outset of the work,
-as in the making of new bows it never occurred to me before. I was in
-great fear, however, at the conclusion of my troublesome work, for I
-found that the bow had lost all elasticity and power.
-
-Later on, the opportunity presented itself to me of proving that
-pernambuco-wood when exposed to the air hardens very rapidly, and I
-am therefore convinced that this fact was known to Tourte and that
-consequently he only rubbed his bows with linseed-oil, in order to
-leave them open to the influence of the air, so that the sticks might
-become hardened and strengthened.
-
-If an old bow has become slightly twisted, which may happen with bows
-of the best make, this fault can be rectified by cautiously bending
-it back to its original form over a charcoal fire, and the bow will
-regain its former elasticity.
-
-If any of my readers desire to study more closely the history of
-stringed instruments, I can recommend to them very highly the work upon
-the subject from the pen of Julius Rühlmann.
-
-
-Göttingen, Druck der Dieterich’schen Univ.-Buchdruckerei von W. Fr.
-Kästner.
-
-
-
-
-Transcriber’s Notes
-
-The figures referenced throughout the text are not present in the
-original English edition. You can find them in the original German Die
-Geige und ihr Bau on Google Books.
-
-The numbering of the chapter on the back and edges was corrected to IV.
-instead of VI. in the table of contents.
-
-Page 10: “intsrument makers” changed to “instrument makers”
-
-Page 28: “My opininon” changed to “My opinion”
-
-Page 34: “opon this master-piece” changed to “upon this master-piece”
-
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diff --git a/old/68575-0.zip b/old/68575-0.zip
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-<!DOCTYPE html>
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- The Violin and the Art of its Construction, by August Riechers—A Project Gutenberg eBook
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-<body>
-<p style='text-align:center; font-size:1.2em; font-weight:bold'>The Project Gutenberg eBook of The violin and the art of its construction, by August Riechers</p>
-<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and
-most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms
-of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online
-at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you
-are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the
-country where you are located before using this eBook.
-</div>
-
-<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: The violin and the art of its construction</p>
-<p style='display:block; margin-left:2em; text-indent:0; margin-top:0; margin-bottom:1em;'>a treatise on the Stradivarius violin</p>
-<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: August Riechers</p>
-<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: July 20, 2022 [eBook #68575]</p>
-<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</p>
- <p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; text-align:left'>Produced by: The Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive)</p>
-<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE VIOLIN AND THE ART OF ITS CONSTRUCTION ***</div>
-
-<h1>THE VIOLIN<br />
-<span class="small">AND THE ART OF ITS CONSTRUCTION.</span></h1>
-
-<p class="center p2 big">A Treatise on the Stradivarius Violin</p>
-
-<p class="center small">by</p>
-
-<p class="center big">AUGUST RIECHERS,</p>
-
-<p class="center small">Bow and Violin Maker.</p>
-<hr class="r5" />
-<p class="center">[Copyright of the German and English Editions.]</p>
-<hr class="r5" />
-<p class="center">With four lithographed plates.</p>
-<hr class="r5" />
-<p class="center p4">
-<span class="big">GOETTINGEN.</span><br />
-CARL SPIELMEYER’S NACHFOLGER.<br />
-FRANZ WUNDER.<br />
-1895.</p>
-
-<p class="center small">Copyright entered at Stationers Hall, London.
-</p>
-
-
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-
-<p class="center">
-To his highly revered Friend and Patron<br />
-<br />
-<span class="big"><span class="smcap">Dr.</span> JOSEPH JOACHIM</span><br />
-<br />
-this work is humbly dedicated<br />
-<br />
-by<br />
-<br />
-THE AUTHOR.<br />
-</p></div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</span></p>
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</span></p>
-
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="PREFACE">PREFACE.</h2>
-</div>
-<hr class="r5" />
-
-
-<p>The highly esteemed author of this treatise, a renowned violin maker
-and clever repairer, of old instruments, having been denied the
-pleasure of publishing the same himself, death intervening on January
-4th, 1893, his work on the violin and the art of its construction is
-now published, in accordance with his last wishes.</p>
-
-<p>This treatise will, no doubt, be all the more welcome to professionals
-and amateurs alike, as to my knowledge no such work has yet been
-published treating the subject in such an able and thorough manner.</p>
-
-<p>May, therefore, the valuable labours of the deceased author meet with
-that universal acknowledgment, which in a very high degree they deserve.</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p><i>Göttingen</i>, April 1895.</p>
-</div>
-
-<p class="right">
-The Editor.<br />
-</p>
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</span></p>
-
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="Index">Index.</h2>
-</div>
-
-<table class="autotable">
-<tr>
-<td></td>
-<td class="tdl">
-<a href="#INTRODUCTION">Introduction</a></td>
-<td class="tdr page">
-<a href="#Page_7">Page 7</a>
-</td></tr><tr>
-<td class="tdr">
-<a href="#I_OF_THE_WOOD">I.</a>
-</td><td class="tdl">
-<a href="#Page_10">Of the Wood</a>
-</td><td class="tdr page">
-<a href="#Page_10">” 10</a>
-</td></tr><tr>
-<td class="tdr">
-<a href="#II_OF_THE_CONSTRUCTION">II.</a>
-</td><td class="tdl">
-<a href="#Page_11">Of the Construction</a>
-</td><td class="tdr page">
-<a href="#Page_11">” 11</a>
-</td></tr><tr>
-<td class="tdr">
-<a href="#III_THE_RIBS_Fig_1_a">III.</a>
-</td><td class="tdl">
-<a href="#Page_12">The Ribs</a>
-</td><td class="tdr page">
-<a href="#Page_12">” 12</a>
-</td></tr><tr>
-<td class="tdr">
-<a href="#IV_THE_BACK_AND_EDGES">IV.</a>
-</td><td class="tdl">
-<a href="#Page_12">The Back and Edges</a>
-</td><td class="tdr page">
-<a href="#Page_12">” 12</a>
-</td></tr><tr>
-<td class="tdr">
-<a href="#V_THE_BELLY">V.</a>
-</td><td class="tdl">
-<a href="#Page_13">The Belly</a>
-</td><td class="tdr page">
-<a href="#Page_13">” 13</a>
-</td></tr><tr>
-<td class="tdr">
-<a href="#VI_THE_ARCHING">VI.</a>
-</td><td class="tdl">
-<a href="#Page_13">The Arching</a>
-</td><td class="tdr page">
-<a href="#Page_13">” 13</a>
-</td></tr><tr>
-<td class="tdr">
-<a href="#VII_THE_PURFLING">VII.</a>
-</td><td class="tdl">
-<a href="#Page_14">The Purfling</a>
-</td><td class="tdr page">
-<a href="#Page_14">” 14</a>
-</td></tr><tr>
-<td class="tdr">
-<a href="#VIII_WORKING-OUT_THE_THICKNESSES_OF_THE_BELLY_AND_BACK">VIII.</a>
-</td><td class="tdl">
-<a href="#Page_15">Working-out the Thicknesses of the Belly and Back</a>
-</td><td class="tdr page">
-<a href="#Page_15">” 15</a>
-</td></tr><tr>
-<td class="tdr">
-<a href="#IX_THE_F-HOLES">IX.</a>
-</td><td class="tdl">
-<a href="#Page_16">The F-holes</a>
-</td><td class="tdr page">
-<a href="#Page_16">” 16</a>
-</td></tr><tr>
-<td class="tdr">
-<a href="#X_THE_BASS-BAR">X.</a>
-</td><td class="tdl">
-<a href="#Page_16">The Bass-bar</a>
-</td><td class="tdr page">
-<a href="#Page_16">” 16</a>
-</td></tr><tr>
-<td class="tdr">
-<a href="#XI_THE_HEAD_OR_NECK">XI.</a>
-</td><td class="tdl">
-<a href="#Page_18">The Head or Neck</a>
-</td><td class="tdr page">
-<a href="#Page_18">” 18</a>
-</td></tr><tr>
-<td class="tdr">
-<a href="#XII_THE_DIMENSIONS_LENGTH_OF_NECK_AND_BODY">XII.</a>
-</td><td class="tdl">
-<a href="#Page_18">The Dimensions, Length of Neck and Body</a>
-</td><td class="tdr page">
-<a href="#Page_18">” 18</a>
-</td></tr><tr>
-<td class="tdr">
-<a href="#XIII_THE_FINGER-BOARD_AND_NUT">XIII.</a>
-</td><td class="tdl">
-<a href="#Page_21">The Finger-board and Nut</a>
-</td><td class="tdr page">
-<a href="#Page_21">” 21</a>
-</td></tr><tr>
-<td class="tdr">
-<a href="#XIV_THE_POSITION_OF_THE_NECK">XIV.</a>
-</td><td class="tdl">
-<a href="#Page_21">The Position of the Neck</a>
-</td><td class="tdr page">
-<a href="#Page_21">” 21</a>
-</td></tr><tr>
-<td class="tdr">
-<a href="#XV_THE_TAIL-PIECE_Fig_11">XV.</a>
-</td><td class="tdl">
-<a href="#Page_22">The Tail-piece</a>
-</td><td class="tdr page">
-<a href="#Page_22">” 22</a>
-</td></tr><tr>
-<td class="tdr">
-<a href="#XVI_THE_PEGS">XVI.</a>
-</td><td class="tdl">
-<a href="#Page_24">The Pegs</a>
-</td><td class="tdr page">
-<a href="#Page_24">” 24</a>
-</td></tr><tr>
-<td class="tdr">
-<a href="#XVII_THE_BRIDGE_Fig_10">XVII.</a>
-</td><td class="tdl">
-<a href="#Page_24">The Bridge</a>
-</td><td class="tdr page">
-<a href="#Page_24">” 24</a>
-</td></tr><tr>
-<td class="tdr">
-<a href="#XVIII_THE_SOUND-POST">XVIII.</a>
-</td><td class="tdl">
-<a href="#Page_25">The Sound-post</a>
-</td><td class="tdr page">
-<a href="#Page_25">” 25</a>
-</td></tr><tr>
-<td class="tdr">
-<a href="#XIX_THE_STRINGS">XIX.</a>
-</td><td class="tdl">
-<a href="#Page_27">The Strings</a>
-</td><td class="tdr page">
-<a href="#Page_27">” 27</a>
-</td></tr><tr>
-<td class="tdr">
-<a href="#XX_THE_VARNISH">XX.</a>
-</td><td class="tdl">
-<a href="#Page_28">The Varnish</a>
-</td><td class="tdr page">
-<a href="#Page_28">” 28</a>
-</td></tr><tr>
-<td class="tdr">
-<a href="#XXI_THE_CLEANING_AND_CARE_OF_THE_VIOLIN">XXI.</a>
-</td><td class="tdl">
-<a href="#Page_32">The Cleaning and Care of the Violin</a>
-</td><td class="tdr page">
-<a href="#Page_32">” 32</a>
-</td></tr><tr>
-<td class="tdr">
-<a href="#XXII_THE_BOW">XXII.</a>
-</td><td class="tdl">
-<a href="#Page_32">The Bow</a>
-</td><td class="tdr page">
-<a href="#Page_32">” 32</a>
-</td></tr>
-</table>
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</span></p>
-
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="INTRODUCTION">INTRODUCTION.</h2>
-</div>
-
-
-<p>In giving publicity to this treatise on the construction of the violin,
-I believe I am only meeting the wishes of many, both professionals and
-amateurs, who are desirous of learning more particulars concerning the
-construction of their instruments, but am also giving a few practical
-hints to my younger comrades in the art of violin-making. I hope also
-to induce some of my older colleagues to give forth other works of the
-same kind, which may serve to ennoble and promote our art.</p>
-
-<p>Times without number I have been asked by friends of the violin, during
-my 40 years’ work as a violin maker, to recommend books giving more
-exact information on the construction of that instrument, but the only
-answer that I have been able to give has been that German technical
-literature on the subject is very meagre, and that information from
-foreign works is mostly impoverished by feeble translations.</p>
-
-<p>Very few authors understand the general build of the violin thoroughly,
-they pay most attention to individual points, those most calculated
-to attract the attention of amateurs; for example, the proportions of
-single parts, their size, etc. There is only one work I can recommend
-which forms an exception to this rule and that is “The Memoirs of
-Antonio<span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</span> Bagatella” (Padua 1786) which has been published in a German
-translation by Franz Wunder at Göttingen.</p>
-
-<p>It contains not only rules for the construction of violins, violas,
-violincellos and basses, as well as distinct instructions for the
-restoration of the outline of the belly and back of these instruments,
-but also enters into particulars concerning the adjustment and
-renovation of the same.</p>
-
-<p>Just as the celebrated violin makers of the last century took the
-work of Amati as their model, I have found my master, to whom I, in
-common with all my colleagues, look up with admiration, recognising in
-him not only the gifted artist, but also the industrious workman and
-far-sighted observer—I mean Antonio Stradivarius. Even as a boy I was
-very fond of listening to the tales told me by my father, who was a
-musician in Hanover and as an autodidact occupied himself with violin
-work, tales in which he described to me the wonderful productions
-of the old Italian masters and more particularly those of Amati,
-Stradivarius, and Guarnerius. He regarded it as a great distinction
-shewn to him, and often referred to the fact, that he was allowed
-to open and repair the Guarnerius violin of Paganini. After a time,
-however, he altered his tone and cursed the Italian as well as his
-violin, for the great artist, although he praised my father’s work and
-expressed himself perfectly satisfied with it, objected to the payment
-of three Thalers for the repairs, considering it an exorbitant charge,
-and this, coupled with similar experiences at the hands of others, so
-incensed my father that he would not give his consent to my earnest
-wish to enter the violin factory; consequently I was apprenticed at the
-age of 13 years to a pianoforte manufacturer with whom I remained for
-two years, in spite of having shown aptitude in the other direction by
-constructing a violin with my own hands at the age of 12 years.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</span></p>
-
-<p>Being released from my apprenticeship at the beginning of my fifteenth
-year, I wandered away to Markneukirchen, there to study violin-making
-under Hans Ficker; later on I was occupied for a longer period as
-assistant to Ludwig Bausch, senior, in Leipsic, to whom I owe a great
-deal, for he strengthened me in my love of the art and settled my
-belief in the unequalled excellence of Stradivarius. My admiration for
-this great master increased even more and more, and in my fifteenth
-year, when I began to work for myself in Hanover, I learned even
-more of his works and had the happiness to find that my reverence
-for him was shared by my friend and patron Dr. Joseph Joachim. Ten
-years later, the latter exchanged Hanover for Berlin, and as I was
-no longer contented in the former town after his departure in 1872,
-I gladly responded to a call from him to prosecute my work in the
-Prussian capital and to continue to study the works of Stradivarius,
-in order to handle them more worthily and to infuse his ideas into my
-own productions. I venture to hope that I have succeeded in the first
-part of my undertaking, for, a great number of instruments have passed
-through my hands in the course of years, including the incomparable
-violins belonging to Dr. Joachim. The second part of my task I do
-not consider accomplished. I am ever taking more and more trouble in
-working, in the hope of bringing my attempt nearer and nearer to the
-hitherto unattained excellence of Stradivarius. I therefore beg my
-readers to regard the following chapters with a favourable eye and
-to accept them in a friendly spirit as the result of long years of
-experience, the confirmation or rectification of which I shall accept
-with joy.</p>
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</span></p>
-
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="I_OF_THE_WOOD">I. OF THE WOOD.</h2>
-</div>
-
-
-<p>There can be no doubt whatever that a correct knowledge and choice of
-the wood for the construction of violins is of the utmost importance.
-Both these qualifications, however, can only be gained by experience,
-since that alone can prove which kind of wood is the most suitable and
-produces the best results.</p>
-
-<p>The back, the ribs, the neck, and the head should be of maple, and
-neither too hard, nor too soft, nor yet too deeply grained. In every
-case light wood should be selected, and I consider Hungarian maple the
-best for the purpose. For the belly, the so-called white fir or pine
-should be used, as both kinds of wood possess sufficient resonance, and
-are easily manipulated. These woods too must be as light as possible,
-and should have neither very narrow nor very broad, but regular and
-well-formed concentric circles. The Tyrol and the neighbouring cantons
-of Switzerland produce the best wood for this purpose. It is to be
-observed that the pieces used must be split and not cut.</p>
-
-<p>In my opinion, the much praised American pine is too soft and
-resinous, and neither do I consider the American maple qualified for
-the construction of violins. The wood used by myself is obtained from
-Schoenbach, near Eger, in Bohemia, where large supplies for the needs
-of instrument<span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</span> makers are always on hand to be selected from. The age
-of the wood I consider of only very small importance; if it has been
-laying by for five years, ready cut or split, as the case may be, for
-the construction of a violin, it will then be sufficiently dry and will
-need no further preparation. I have exactly ascertained the weight
-of wood which had been laid by for drying for five years, and then,
-having weighed it again at the end of twenty years, have found it had
-not become perceptibly lighter. All the violins made by me, some 1600
-instruments, have always weighed from 260 to 275 grammes, without the
-pegs, finger-board, and tail-piece, a weight which I have generally
-found to be that of the violins constructed by Stradivarius.</p>
-
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="II_OF_THE_CONSTRUCTION">II. OF THE CONSTRUCTION.</h2>
-</div>
-
-
-<p>For the space of thirty years I have worked upon the plan of
-Stradivarius solely, for I consider that his instruments and their
-proportions are the most perfect that can be found. Why, therefore,
-should I have taken any other as my model? I have repaired at least
-three hundred undoubtedly genuine violins constructed by this great
-master, besides having seen and handled many others, and consequently
-have had frequent opportunities of thoroughly studying his work, and of
-gauging and copying his most beautiful instruments. As the creations
-of this incomparable maker seem perfect in every detail, I have never
-attempted to make any additions of my own, but have strictly adhered to
-specimens produced by him in his prime (1700 to 1720) as my models, and
-have found that they differ but very slightly from one another. In Fig.
-1., I have given the outlines of a violin of this period (1713) with
-the blocks.</p>
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</span></p>
-
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="III_THE_RIBS_Fig_1_a">III. THE RIBS (Fig. 1. a).</h2>
-</div>
-
-
-<p>The ribs should be 1¹⁄₂ m/m. thick, and very neatly and evenly planed;
-the height should be about 30 m/m. at first. The ribs are curved to
-their correct form by means of a hot bending iron, or still better by
-a copper clew, and then glued to the blocks. After this, the ribs next
-to the back are to be made true to receive the linings. The latter must
-be 8 m/m. high, 2¹⁄₂ m/m. thick, and must be made of lime-wood. The
-middle linings are to be let into the blocks, so that they cannot break
-loose. The blocks must also be made of lime-wood. The edges of the ribs
-and the surface of the rim, before being glued on to the prepared back,
-must again be very carefully adjusted, so that they appear like one
-even surface. This being done, the superfluous wood of the blocks must
-be cut away to the shape of the mould (<i>see</i> Fig. 5). The ribs
-from the bottom block to the side blocks are then regulated to a height
-of about 30 m/m., and from the side blocks to the top block (Fig. 3)
-they are gradually decreased by 2¹⁄₂ m/m., that is, until 27¹⁄₂ m/m.
-is reached. This diminution in the height is most practically thought
-out and executed by Stradivarius, the belly obtaining thereby a tension
-which offers the necessary resistance to the neck. The upper linings
-must be adjusted to the ribs in the same way, and as a matter of
-course, they must be curved to the shape of the ribs. The superfluous
-wood of the blocks being cut away, the mould is removed.</p>
-
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="IV_THE_BACK_AND_EDGES">IV. THE BACK AND EDGES.</h2>
-</div>
-
-
-<p>It is not of importance whether the back be made in one or two pieces;
-nevertheless, Stradivarius seems to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</span> have given the preference to a
-divided back. I also consider it more advantageous, as, being joined,
-it offers greater resistance, and is not so easily pressed outwards on
-the sound-post side, as is the case with violins having the back cut in
-one piece. The edges of the mid-rib and corners should be 4 m/m. thick,
-whereas the upper and lower edges of the back (Fig. 1 ee/ee), gradually
-decreasing from the corners, become 1 m/m. thinner.</p>
-
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="V_THE_BELLY">V. THE BELLY.</h2>
-</div>
-
-
-<p>The belly must be composed of two parts, and has to be joined together
-so exactly that the narrow year-rings are in the middle of the same;
-the outer ring which should not be more than 2 m/m. broad and very
-equally disposed, may run towards the edges. The edges must be of the
-same thickness as those of the back.</p>
-
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="VI_THE_ARCHING">VI. THE ARCHING.</h2>
-</div>
-
-
-<p>It does not seem to me probable that Stradivarius acted without
-mature deliberation in making the arch of the back and belly, taken
-together, of the same height as the ribs, viz.: 30 m/m.; of course,
-I am speaking now of the violins made during his prime. If the back
-and belly are placed one upon the other, the height will amount to 30
-m/m., the entire external diameter, therefore, must be 60 m/m., since
-the ribs, as already stated, have a height of 30 m/m. I am certainly
-of the opinion, that Stradivarius substantiated these proportions
-by experiments. There are, however, exceptions; the greatest of the
-deviations from this rule which has come under my notice, consisted in
-the middle line measuring 70 m/m., reckoning from the upper edge of the
-belly to the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</span> lower edge of the back. No doubt, this violin, made in
-1710, was an experiment, the average measurement being considered to
-be from 58 to 62 m/m. Now and again, Stradivarius made the arch lower,
-whether intentionally or from want of wood, I am not in a position to
-say. In this case he makes the ribs correspondingly higher, so that
-the above-mentioned measurement may still be 60 m/m. Stradivarius has
-also occasionally made the arch of the back less than 15 m/m., and by
-way of compensation, in this case, has increased the arch of the belly.
-I am of opinion, however, that these deviations are to be ascribed
-more to experiment than to accident. He never trusted to chance in
-his work, but in the most careful way reflected upon it and took into
-consideration all circumstances in connection with it. The arch given
-as an example in Fig. 6, is taken from a Stradivarius violin of the
-year 1713, and as the belly and back are both of equal height, viz.: 15
-m/m., the entire height amounts to 60 m/m.</p>
-
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="VII_THE_PURFLING">VII. THE PURFLING.</h2>
-</div>
-
-
-<p>The purfling is always placed 4 m/m. from the edge and is 1¹⁄₂ m/m.
-wide. It consists of three parts, the two outermost of which are
-prepared from maple and stained black, while the middle part is made of
-the same kind of wood, but unstained. It is of the utmost importance
-that the purfling should only be inserted to the depth of one-third
-of the thickness of the edges, otherwise the edge will very easily
-break off. In the work of Stradivarius, one finds continually on the
-back, both above and below, a peg of maple-wood, by means of which he
-fastened the back to the block, and the half of this peg is inserted
-in the purfling. In violins having a divided back, one finds another
-purfling on<span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</span> the bottom block, along the joint of the ribs, but with
-backs made in one piece it scarcely ever occurs, because then the under
-ribs, as far as the middle rib, are prepared in one piece. The purfling
-is not to be regarded as an embellishment, as many suppose it is. It
-considerably strengthens the back and the belly towards the edges, and
-at the same time offers a protection, especially for the belly, against
-cracks, if the instrument, for example, should be opened for repairs
-by an inexperienced workman. I will even go so far as to assert that
-if the purfling were not employed, old violins could not exist without
-numberless cracks, for any violent blow would cause cracks, without
-the additional strength given by the purfling, and the greater number
-of old and costly violins would come down to us spoilt, or at least
-damaged.</p>
-
-<p>The purfling also has this advantage that if perchance the edges get
-broken off, they can easily be replaced and the good appearance of the
-instrument restored without much trouble.</p>
-
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="VIII_WORKING-OUT_THE_THICKNESSES_OF_THE_BELLY_AND_BACK">VIII. WORKING-OUT THE THICKNESSES OF THE BELLY AND BACK.</h2>
-</div>
-
-
-<p>The thickness of the breast in the back amounts to 4 m/m. at the spot
-where the sound-post stands and remains the same to a distance of 50
-m/m. towards the bottom block, and 60 m/m. towards the upper block,
-while it decreases to 3 m/m. towards the middle rib. The cheeks must
-be 1 to 2 m/m. thick. I have assured myself by numberless measurements
-that Stradivarius often changed the thickness of the back; and has even
-gone so far as to make it 6 m/m., while the belly which he made from
-the soundest and most perfect<span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</span> wood, with very evenly disposed grain,
-measured always exactly 2¹⁄₂ m/m.</p>
-
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="IX_THE_F-HOLES">IX. THE F-HOLES.</h2>
-</div>
-
-
-<p>A well-formed and proportioned F has a great deal to do with enhancing
-the appearance of a violin. The F represented in Fig. 7 is a most
-perfect specimen of what it should be. Anyone wishing to cut the
-F-holes in the belly, should take Fig. 7 and place it in such a way
-that the line a/a be exactly 195 m/m. from the outer and upper edge,
-and <i>b b</i> almost upon the point of the belly. This will give the
-right position of the F-holes and at the same time the measurement of
-the body. The greatest width of the opening of the F-holes must be
-6 m/m. The width of the breast between the two upper excisions must
-never be narrower than the width of the bridge. In the accompanying
-illustration these are very wide apart and might without disadvantage
-be placed 2 m/m. nearer together. On violins where this distance of the
-F-holes is less than 40 m/m., either a narrower bridge must be used
-or the bass-bar must be cut out a little, so that the latter may lie
-close on to the upper F-hole. The lower lobes of the F-holes are always
-slanted outwards by Stradivarius, thus presenting a more symmetrical
-appearance. Both incisions are small, but clearly cut.</p>
-
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="X_THE_BASS-BAR">X. THE BASS-BAR.</h2>
-</div>
-
-
-<p>After the F-holes have been cut out, the bass-bar can be fixed. It is
-made of pine and should be prepared in such a way that the year-rings
-lie perpendicularly to the belly. The height of the bass-bar under the
-bridge is 10 m/m. and at the two ends 4 m/m. The bass-bar must be<span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</span> 6
-m/m. thick in the middle, decreasing in thickness by 1 m/m. towards
-the ends. The length should be 280 m/m. The bass-bar must be glued
-on so that it lies 35 m/m. from the bottom edge and 40 m/m. from the
-upper one. In order to determine exactly the position of the beam,
-the width of the bridge should be precisely marked as 40 m/m. on the
-inside of the belly and the bass-bar should then be placed to coincide
-exactly with the G-foot of the bridge, giving it at the same time such
-a slanting position as to bring its upper end within 4 or 6 m/m. of the
-middle line of the belly, while its lower end should, on the contrary,
-be purposely placed farther away from it. (<i>See</i> illustration).</p>
-
-<p>In order that the bass-bar may obtain the right tension, the side of
-it lying next the belly must be slightly curved, sufficiently so for
-both ends, before they are glued, to stand away about 2 m/m. In the
-process of glueing, the ends must be firmly pressed down. The height
-of the bass-bar under the bridge should be 8 m/m., while at the ends
-the measurement should amount to 4 m/m. It is scarcely necessary to
-remark that the proportions of the bass-bar vary in different violins,
-according as they are smaller or larger, high or flat, strong or weak.
-A few examples are given here. In a violin of the ordinary type, no
-matter whether it be large or small, the proportions will be found to
-coincide with the above statement, while a highly arched violin has
-a less slanting and less tightened beam than the latter. In the case
-of wood of a thickness less than 1¹⁄₂ m/m., the beam should be 1 to 2
-m/m. more towards the interior, and also be placed from 3 to 5 m/m.
-more slanting, and must in that case also be from 1 to 2 m/m. thicker.
-A bass-bar under strong tension gives a sharp and clear tone, while
-one of less tension gives a fuller and softer one. With bass-bars of
-the height of 12 and even 15 m/m. (so-called acoustic bass-bars), it
-is not<span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</span> possible to achieve any success. The fixing of the bass-bar
-completes the interior construction of the violin, and consequently the
-glueing-on of the belly can now be proceeded with.</p>
-
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="XI_THE_HEAD_OR_NECK">XI. THE HEAD OR NECK.</h2>
-</div>
-
-
-<p>In Fig. 8 we have a very beautiful model, representing as it does a
-perfect specimen of Stradivarius. Its form can be obtained by exactly
-copying the external outline and the measurements I-XV. The inner curve
-of the head must be worked out as shewn in Fig. 8 <i>b</i>. The back at
-the head (Fig. 8 <i>c</i>) should be 4 m/m. thick on the upper side and
-gradually increase by 3 m/m. towards the under side, so that at this
-point it reaches a thickness of 7 m/m. The peg-holes must be placed
-exactly as shewn in the model. If they have short heads, they can be
-placed a few millimetres nearer together from A to G without destroying
-the appearance of the instrument. The wood for the head and neck must
-always be so chosen that the grain and surface lie horizontally.</p>
-
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="XII_THE_DIMENSIONS_LENGTH_OF_NECK_AND_BODY">XII. THE DIMENSIONS, LENGTH OF NECK AND BODY.</h2>
-</div>
-
-
-<p>None of the old violin makers have attached more importance to the
-right position of the F-holes than Stradivarius; hence we gather that
-he fully recognised the importance of the dimensions of the body, and
-in his violins we always find that the same measurement is retained
-between the interior incision of the F-holes and the upper edge. We
-shall see later on the great advantages that would accrue to the
-musician, if all violin makers would observe the same rules in the
-adjustment of the dimensions. I repeatedly have<span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</span> cut off the necks
-of hundreds of violins, and by correcting the proportions have made
-the possessors of them entirely contented. How many a student has
-drudged on through life with a badly proportioned instrument, and in
-consequence has never succeeded in obtaining that certainty on his
-instrument after which he has diligently striven. We must now, however,
-enter rather more into particulars.</p>
-
-<p>I hope that what is to follow, may enable everyone to judge and prove
-for himself, whether his violin has the correct dimensions or not. We
-will adhere to the measurement accepted by Stradivarius (<i>see</i>
-Fig. 1 <i>a a a</i>), which is exactly 195 m/m. from the upper edge to
-the incision of the F-hole, and call it the normal measurement. From
-this we learn that the length of the neck, that is to say, the distance
-from the lower edge of the nut (the point where the finger-board
-begins) to the upper edge of the belly (<i>b b</i>) should be exactly
-130 m/m., and the whole length of the body should bear the same
-proportion to the length of the neck, as 195 m/m. bears to 130 m/m., or
-to put it still more plainly, if we take the total of the two lengths,
-namely 325 m/m., and divide it by five, the length of the body should
-be equal to three of these parts and that of the neck to two of them.
-Should a violin have a longer or shorter body measure than that given
-above, the neck must still be in proportion with it of two to three,
-that is to say, if the whole measure be divided into five parts, two of
-such parts will give the length of the neck. By these means, correct
-dimensions will be obtained, and a performer will easily accustom
-himself to the proportionate position of the neck, and forthwith obtain
-certainty of execution. If only the proportion of the neck to the body
-be correct, a performer will scarcely notice, whether the whole measure
-from the bridge to the upper nut is 5 to 10 m/m. longer or shorter.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</span>
-Great care must be taken in placing the upper end of the finger-board;
-it should be placed exactly at right angles with the under curve of
-the head (<i>a</i>), a point which is often paid very little attention
-to, and yet is one which is of the utmost importance. For instance, if
-the upper nut be placed too far beyond the angle (<i>a</i>), the hand
-must of necessity be stretched backwards in an uncomfortable position,
-or the fingers will fall too high upon the strings. On the other hand,
-if the nut be placed too low, the hand has no certain position upon
-the curve of the neck, and consequently will play flat in the first
-position and sharp in the third. It has often been said to me by
-musicians, and especially amateurs, that their violins played sharp in
-the first position and flat in the higher ones, and the contrary also
-has often come under my notice. The sole cause of these imperfections
-is the disproportionate relation in the length of the body and the
-neck, for whatever may be the distance between the bridge and the nut,
-whether long or short, the position of the different tones themselves
-is exactly determined by the laws of acoustics, and always remains in
-the same relation to the vibrating string.</p>
-
-<p>I have given in Fig. 12 the exact position of the tones on the
-A-string, according to the normal measurement of 325 m/m. given above.
-The first tone played (B flat) is always exactly the eighteenth part of
-the whole length of the string from the nut to the bridge; the second
-tone is the eighteenth part from the first tone, and so on. If the
-finger-board is 268 m/m. long, the high E on the A-string will coincide
-with the lower end of the same. The above-mentioned imperfection is
-also caused by the neck being either too long or too short; in the
-first case a performer would play too sharp in the third position, and
-too flat in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</span> the second; in the higher positions also, he would have
-difficulty in finding the correct place for the fingers.</p>
-
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="XIII_THE_FINGER-BOARD_AND_NUT">XIII. THE FINGER-BOARD AND NUT.</h2>
-</div>
-
-
-<p>Both these portions of the instrument must be made of ebony (Fig. 12).
-Before the finger-board is glued, the surfaces to be joined must be
-made particularly smooth. The length is 268 m/m. in an instrument of
-normal size, and in those which are longer and shorter, the necessary
-proportion is easily determined. The width of the upper end, near the
-nut, is 24 m/m., while at the lower end it measures 45 m/m.</p>
-
-<p>The curve at the nut should be the same as the curve of the bridge, the
-thickness being from 4 to 5 m/m. Whilst the centre of the finger-board
-should form a straight line lengthways, it must be hollowed out under
-the E-string equally to the depth of 1 m/m., and under the G-string
-to 1¹⁄₂ m/m., in order to prevent the jarring and rattling of the
-strings. The thickness of the nut must be 5 m/m. on the under side and
-4 m/m. on the upper. The distance between the two outer string-grooves
-must be from 16 to 18 m/m. The strings lie at the nut (<i>a</i>) in
-the case of E, A, and D-strings at a distance of ¹⁄₂ m/m. from the
-finger-board, the G-string 1 m/m. The thickness of the neck, including
-the finger-board, is 18 m/m. at the upper curve (Fig. 8<i>b</i> I.) for
-a hand of ordinary size, and 24 m/m. at the lower curve (Fig. 8<i>b</i>
-II); but this thickness can be altered according to the wish of the
-performer.</p>
-
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="XIV_THE_POSITION_OF_THE_NECK">XIV. THE POSITION OF THE NECK.</h2>
-</div>
-
-
-<p>The neck of the violin must be regulated according to the width of
-the finger-board. It must be cut about 7 m/m.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</span> longer than the length
-required, when in position, in order to allow for its insertion in the
-block; the entire length of the neck from the nut to the end should
-measure 135 m/m. When this has been duly arranged, the neck can be
-fitted into the block. The small semi-circular elongation of the back
-of the violin, in common with the upper block, serves principally to
-support the neck and keep it in position, at the same time giving the
-performer a correct hold.</p>
-
-<p>The finger-board having been glued to the neck, it is of the utmost
-importance that the latter should be fitted in very carefully, so that
-it protrude 5 m/m. from the belly (Fig. 8<i>e</i>).</p>
-
-<p>If the gauge be placed on the centre of the finger-board in the line
-<i>a a</i> (Fig. I and II), the end <i>a</i> (Fig. 9, third plate)
-should fall exactly on the line of connection between the innermost
-excisions of the F-holes, having its centre under the place where the
-bridge stands, so that the finger-board may exactly coincide with the
-measure.</p>
-
-<p>This arrangement gives us not only the correct position of the
-finger-board, but also, as we shall see later on, the right height of
-the bridge, 35 m/m., and also the suitable position of the strings
-according to their height. The measurement marked upon the gauge (Fig.
-9), viz.: from <i>a</i> (beginning of the nut) as far as the upper edge
-of the belly <i>b</i> (end of the neck) and thence to <i>a</i> (place
-of the bridge) must be in such proportion to one another as to give the
-violin practical dimensions and height of bridge.</p>
-
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="XV_THE_TAIL-PIECE_Fig_11">XV. THE TAIL-PIECE (Fig. 11).</h2>
-</div>
-
-
-<p>This part of the instrument exercises a great influence on the tone,
-although the fact is doubted by a great many<span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</span> performers. I will
-endeavour to briefly demonstrate my idea upon the subject. In the
-first place, I would remark in reference to the shape and size of the
-tail-piece that the upper curve must resemble the curve of the bridge.</p>
-
-<p>The semi-circular ridge at the upper end is called the saddle and
-must project about 1 m/m. The upper and movable end of the tail-piece
-is not arranged at right angles with the middle line of the same,
-but inclines about 1¹⁄₂ m/m. towards the G-string. This is done in
-order to balance, so to speak, the crooked position of the tail-piece
-which has been occasioned by the greater tension of the E-string in
-comparison with the G-string, and also to keep the upper edge of the
-tail-piece parallel with the upper edge of the bridge, which is very
-necessary to the elegant appearance of the lower portion of the violin.
-The space between the incisions for G and E-strings should be 30 m/m.
-The length of the strings below the bridge from the upper edge of the
-same to the saddle on the tail-piece should be 55 m/m., and then the
-A-string behind the bridge will give the high E. If the proportion of
-the tail-piece to the bridge be changed, that is to say, lengthened or
-shortened by the use of a larger or smaller tail-piece with the same
-length of the tail-piece fastener, the tension of the strings also
-becomes altered, and the tone and vibrations are thereby affected.</p>
-
-<p>If, for instance, the tail-piece is so constructed that the portion of
-the A-string behind the bridge gives F, the other strings must also be
-correspondingly slackened, for the tension of a string reaches not only
-from the bridge to the nut as many suppose, but from the tail-piece
-to the peg. In consequence of this, the pressure of the strings on
-the instrument can be increased or lessened by means of a longer or
-shorter tail-piece, whereby the tone is correspondingly modified.
-The gut for the tail-piece should be from 1¹⁄₂ to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</span> 2 m/m. thick.
-The before-mentioned variations of tone can also be obtained by the
-lengthening or shortening of the gut of the tail-piece.</p>
-
-<p>The rest, over which the gut passes, must be made of ebony and be 40
-m/m. long by 5 m/m. wide, and must rise 3 m/m. from the belly. The
-button, round which the gut passes, must also be made of ebony, and has
-to be inserted into the centre of the lower block.</p>
-
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="XVI_THE_PEGS">XVI. THE PEGS.</h2>
-</div>
-
-
-<p>These are generally made of ebony, and care must be taken that they are
-inserted exactly in the places marked in Fig. 8. The distance of the
-pegs from the upper edge of the outer side of the violin head should
-not be more than 10 m/m. The holes in the pegs, through which the
-strings pass, should be 2 m/m. from the inside of the head. The outer
-ends of the pegs should be level with the sides of the head and be
-slightly rounded off.</p>
-
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="XVII_THE_BRIDGE_Fig_10">XVII. THE BRIDGE (Fig. 10).</h2>
-</div>
-
-
-<p>The bridge is made of maple and should be 40 m/m. wide and 35 m/m.
-high, at the bottom it should be 4 m/m. thick, on the top 1¹⁄₂ m/m. The
-width of the feet is not to exceed 9¹⁄₂ m/m. (Fig. 10 <i>a</i>).</p>
-
-<p>The feet must be fitted exactly to the belly and towards the back
-should be sloped sufficiently, so that on the lower side of the bridge
-they form an exact right-angle with the centre line of the belly.</p>
-
-<p>It is advisable to powder the feet a little with chalk to prevent the
-bridge from being so easily displaced as would otherwise be the case.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</span></p>
-
-<p>The feet of the bridge should stand exactly on the line of connection
-between the notches of the F-holes (Fig. 7 <i>a a</i>) and at an equal
-distance from them on either side. The notches on the bridge for the E
-and G-strings are to be 34 m/m. apart.</p>
-
-<p>The lower end of the E-string should not be more than 4 m/m. from the
-finger-board at the very most, that of the G-string about 6 m/m., but
-never more. The height of the strings is, however, very often adjusted
-to the wish of the performer. Herr Joachim, the great violinist, always
-adopts the above measurements on his violins.</p>
-
-<p>A highly arched violin does not require so high a bridge as a flatter
-one, whilst an instrument with a thin belly needs a thicker bridge
-than one of stronger make. These proportions must be carried out very
-precisely, as well as the measurements with regard to the hardness or
-softness of the wood and the strength or weakness of the bridge.</p>
-
-<p>If the bridge be thick below and thin above, the tone will be clearer
-than it would be if these conditions were reversed. If the heart in the
-bridge be cut rather small and high up, the tone is rendered harder,
-a large heart cut in the surface of the bridge will make the tone
-fuller. The use of hard wood for the belly necessitates soft wood for
-the bridge, and loosely grained and soft wood needs a hard wood for the
-latter.</p>
-
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="XVIII_THE_SOUND-POST">XVIII. THE SOUND-POST.</h2>
-</div>
-
-
-<p>The sound-post must be made of pine; in a violin with a belly of normal
-thickness its diameter should be 6 m/m. and show by its year-rings an
-age from 10 to 12 years. With a thicker belly it should be made about
-1 m/m.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</span> less in diameter. It must also be shaped so that both ends
-exactly fit the arch of the violin. When the sound-post has been placed
-in position, its year-rings should be at right angles with those of the
-belly, and furthermore, it should be of such a height as to raise the
-belly ¹⁄₂ m/m.</p>
-
-<p>The sound-post must be placed upon the belly under the outer edge of
-the E-string foot of the bridge, but it should rest upon the back from
-2 to 4 m/m. nearer the centre. In its normal position the sound-post
-must be placed nearer to the tail-piece than the bridge by about 2¹⁄₂
-m/m., that is to say, by about the thickness of the belly.</p>
-
-<p>If one wishes to procure any other tone than that obtained by the
-above-mentioned position, the latter should not be altered, at most,
-by more than 1 to 2 m/m. A sound-post only ¹⁄₂ m/m. longer, renders
-the tone sharper and thinner, while if it be approached nearer the
-bridge, the tone becomes clearer and more acute. If the sound-post be
-moved more towards the centre of the instrument, the G-string sounds
-clearer and firmer, but the E-string on the other hand grows slacker
-and softer; if the sound-post be moved from its normal position about 1
-m/m. further below the bridge, the tone will be softer, but at the same
-time more muffled.</p>
-
-<p>I should like to warn very strongly all performers, whether
-professionals or amateurs, against attempting to alter the position of
-either the sound-post or the bridge themselves, for such attempts will
-in most cases be endless, and very seldom lead to the desired end. I
-could adduce proofs of this in many cases, but I will give only one
-here by way of example. The celebrated violinist Ole Bull who, after
-the loss of all his property in America in the year 1860, took up his
-residence with me in Hanover, could not play for an hour together,
-without experimenting with his violin,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</span> it having become a perfect
-passion with him to be always altering the position of the bridge and
-the sound-post. Indeed, these experiments often lasted until quite a
-short time before the beginning of a concert, and usually ended with
-a malediction on himself and his otherwise precious “Josephi” (Joseph
-Guarnerius del Gesù).</p>
-
-<p>Still, I must confess that I learned a great deal from his many
-researches by dint of observation. When Ole Bull was playing at the
-Theatre in Hanover in cold weather, he always breathed a few times into
-the F-holes of his violin before the curtain rose, in order to warm the
-air in the interior of the instrument, as he was of opinion that in
-consequence the violin spoke better. He may have been right. He also
-carried E-strings in his waist-coat pocket during wet weather, because
-he maintained, and perhaps justly, that they then lasted better.</p>
-
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="XIX_THE_STRINGS">XIX. THE STRINGS.</h2>
-</div>
-
-
-<p>It is very difficult to decide on the quality of the strings; their
-being light or dark-coloured has no influence on their durability. The
-natural colour of the strings is dark, those of a lighter shade having
-been sulphured to render them so. The Italian strings are at present
-unrivalled, but care should be taken that they do not feel too hard.
-The choice of strings according to their thickness really depends on
-personal preference, but as a rule those only of medium size should be
-chosen, which according to the French measurement of strings would be
-14 degrees for the G-string, 23 for the D-string, 14 for the A-string
-and 12 for the E-string.</p>
-
-<p>The larger the violin is, the weaker should be the strings. The notion
-that a half-sized violin should be thin-stringed, is quite erroneous,
-it should, on the contrary, have<span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</span> strings as strong as a full-sized
-violin, for owing to the shorter length, the strings, if they be a
-weak set, become too loose and do not give a true sound, and offer
-insufficient resistance under the pressure of the bow.</p>
-
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="XX_THE_VARNISH">XX. THE VARNISH.</h2>
-</div>
-
-
-<p>There has been for many years a warm and to a certain extent undecided
-discussion going on, as to whether the varnishes used by Italian
-violin makers were oily and slow-drying ones or spirit varnishes. To
-investigate this matter still further, and to arrive at a correct
-decision, will have to be left to the future.</p>
-
-<p>I am, however, of the opinion that the old masters made use of spirit
-or turpentine-oil until the middle of last century, but never of
-linseed-oil or turpentine-oil varnish, as has been often asserted.</p>
-
-<p>My opinion is supported by the following fact. In the year 1860 I had
-the good fortune to buy a real Nicolas Amati lute which, although very
-much knocked about, still retained a thick varnish of a most beautiful
-gold colour. For my information I took the varnish off, in order to
-submit it to the analysis of a clever chemist who, being a talented
-amateur violinist and also a pupil of Spohr, showed great interest in
-the matter and communicated to me, as the result of his investigations,
-this fact that among the quantity of varnish which I had placed at
-his command, there was not a trace of evidence which could lead to
-the conclusion that linseed-oil varnish had been employed. In my own
-researches I found that the varnish was immediately dissolved in spirit
-of only 90 per cent., while in oil of turpentine and linseed-oil it was
-scarcely affected, and by boiling only a small portion was removed.
-Again, it is not<span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</span> probable that Stradivarius, in whose workshops about
-3000 violins were constructed, would have employed linseed-oil varnish,
-seeing that it would have required, in each case, six months for the
-violin to get thoroughly dry.</p>
-
-<p>There are many resins which can be dissolved in spirit or oil of
-turpentine and used as a varnish, but the preference is generally
-given to spirit-varnish, as it dries more quickly. If the spirit or
-turpentine-oil has evaporated, only the resin remains.</p>
-
-<p>The greatest attention must be paid to the relative hardness of the
-resin and the wood, for both should be of equal density. Hard resin
-hinders the vibration of the wood, and consequently the quality of tone
-suffers.</p>
-
-<p>In my opinion shellac is quite useless for varnishing, it being much
-too hard, but nevertheless it has been employed from 1770 until the
-present day, in spite of the fact that the best Italian instrument
-might be completely ruined by being varnished with it. In all
-Italian instruments the old varnish is always very porous and soft,
-and can easily be dissolved by the application of spirit, while,
-on the contrary, it requires great labour to effect the same with
-turpentine-oil.</p>
-
-<p>Many people affirm that the art of mixing the old Italian varnish which
-so charms us with its brilliancy and transparency, is no longer known,
-in fact that it is for ever lost. I am, however, of a different opinion
-and maintain that our modern varnishes are quite equal to the old, but
-what we have until now been unable to produce scientifically, is the
-golden-brown underground which the wood of older violins has acquired
-through age and other influences. The proof of this I have practically
-demonstrated by varnishing old instruments with new varnish, in
-imitation, with such success as to arouse the wonder of connoisseurs,
-the varnish being quite as transparent and brilliant-coloured as that
-used for violins in the last century.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</span></p>
-
-<p>To one other point I should like to call the attention of the reader.
-In repairing old instruments of the time of Stradivarius, I have found
-that an extraordinary cleanliness and lustre is obtained by rubbing
-them with fine glass-paper, which is not the case with Tyrolean and
-German violins of the same period. At a later period this peculiarity
-was not met with so frequently and from the year 1750 not at all.
-This fact I primarily attribute to the action of the resin on the
-wood, being also of opinion that the fine dust of the same gets firmly
-embedded in the pores of the wood, and in this way, in course of time,
-a more or less thick coating is formed.</p>
-
-<p>For one of these practical experiments I took a violin which I had
-made myself and the tone of which, through years of constant use,
-was therefore quite familiar to me, and gave it a coating of melted
-resin on the inside. After this was thoroughly dry and hardened, I
-polished the interior and remarked the before-mentioned smoothness
-and brilliancy, the obtaining of which firmly convinced me that I had
-discovered the truth of the matter. Although, after the glueing-on of
-the belly, all the former conditions of the violin remained unchanged,
-yet I was astonished to find what a common-place squeaking tone the
-instrument had acquired, thus proving to me that with the melted resin
-I had obtained in the end exactly the opposite effect to that which
-I had hoped for. I was obliged to rest contented with my failure for
-a long time, when a lucky chance came to my help. It was this. I
-received a real Caspar da Salo violoncello to repair, which had never
-been opened and seemed to have been very little played upon, for on it
-I found an old bridge which I kept as an ornament and curiosity, and
-which, on closer examination, I found was varnished.</p>
-
-<p>When I opened the cello, it was proved without a doubt<span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</span> that the
-interior had also received a coating, probably to protect it from dust,
-etc. The celebrated old violin makers, in so doing, have pursued the
-right course. This discovery also corroborated my own supposition,
-that the old masters varnished both the interior and bridge of the
-instruments they made.</p>
-
-<p>Now, in order to obtain a ground-priming, I paint the violin, when
-the wood of which it is constructed is in its natural state, three
-times with pyroligneous acid, with which a golden-brown underground
-is obtained, then follows a single coating of spirit and balsam of
-Peru in equal proportions, and after this one or two coats of a weak
-solution of gamboge or anotta, and finally, over all this I lay on 20
-or 30 coats of varnish, according to the thickness required, and which
-I prepare as follows:—</p>
-
-<p>Dissolve three parts of sandarac and one of mastic in spirit, and in
-order that it may be laid on more easily, add to each half a litre<a id="FNanchor_1" href="#Footnote_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a>
-of varnish, ten drops of oil of turpentine. The colouring of the
-varnish I obtain from turmeric and bright red sandal-wood by means
-of spirit, using more or less of it, according as to the lighter or
-darker tone required; if a brown varnish is required, some soot from
-turpentine-oil must be added to the spirit.</p>
-
-<p>I have made innumerable experiments with other resins and colouring
-matters, but in the end I always return to those mentioned above as the
-best to be used. Dragon’s-blood must not be employed, the colour not
-being fast.</p>
-
-<p>When the varnish is dry, it must be very carefully polished with finely
-powdered pumice-stone and linseed-oil, applied with a piece of felt.</p>
-
-<div class="footnote">
-
-<p><a id="Footnote_1" href="#FNanchor_1" class="label">[1]</a> Half a litre is very little less than a pint.</p>
-
-</div>
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</span></p>
-
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="XXI_THE_CLEANING_AND_CARE_OF_THE_VIOLIN">XXI. THE CLEANING AND CARE OF THE VIOLIN.</h2>
-</div>
-
-
-<p>The instrument must always be kept thoroughly clean and after use
-should be carefully wiped with a silken duster. If any dirt should
-adhere to it in spite of this precaution, it can be easily removed by
-gently rubbing it with a piece of linen, moistened with water, and
-afterwards wiping it over with oil of turpentine. The resin which
-accumulates on the finger-board and strings can in case of necessity be
-removed by the application of a little spirit, or better still, by that
-of Eau de Cologne, but great care must be taken in the application, so
-that the spirit does not touch the varnish of the belly. Spirit will
-also clean the strings and remove from them the effect of perspiration;
-the bridge may also be cleaned with it from time to time, but as stated
-before, it must be done cautiously, especially in the case of old and
-valuable instruments of the time of Stradivarius. The more recently
-constructed violins are mostly varnished with shellac, and consequently
-are not at all or, at most, very little affected by the application of
-spirit.</p>
-
-<p>The interior of a violin should also sometimes be cleaned; this can be
-done by putting through the F-holes two or three handsfull of coarse
-kitchen salt; these should then be covered with a cloth and the salt
-well shaken about, as it will thus collect all the dust, resin and
-other dirt which may be in the violin, and when shaken out will carry
-all these impurities with it. The strings need not be taken off in
-order to effect this.</p>
-
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="XXII_THE_BOW">XXII. THE BOW.</h2>
-</div>
-
-
-<p>The rank of François Tourte among violin-bow makers is as prominent a
-one as that of Stradivarius among violin<span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</span> makers. Each has supplemented
-the other. Tourte died in Paris in the year 1835 at the age of 88,
-after a life of usefulness almost as long as that of Stradivarius. He
-brought the making of bows for stringed instruments to such perfection,
-that those bow makers who have succeeded him, have never deviated very
-far from the models he left.</p>
-
-<p>I shall here make a few observations on the characteristics of real
-Tourte bows which have crossed my path.</p>
-
-<p>The quality, as well as money value, of a bow seems entirely to depend
-upon its shape, whether the stick is round or angular. The whole length
-of the bow from the point to the end of the nut should be 73 to 74
-centimetres. The length of the hair from the lower part of the head to
-the nut should measure 63 to 64 centimetres; the height of the head,
-including the stick and little plate, should be 23 m/m.; the height of
-the nut with the stem to the outer ring where the hair begins 26 m/m.;
-the breadth of the hair on the nut should be 11 m/m. and on the head 10
-m/m. Tourte used from 80 to 100 hairs for each bow, but now from 150 to
-160 are taken.</p>
-
-<p>The stick is made of pernambuco-wood and the nut of ebony; tortoise
-shell is however sometimes used for the latter. The decoration may
-be in German silver, silver or gold, according to the taste of the
-possessor.</p>
-
-<p>The stick must be cut straight and lengthwise with the year-rings, and
-is manipulated in such a way that the side-view of the bow shows the
-horizontal lines. In this condition the prepared stick must be held
-over a charcoal fire, be gradually and equally heated, until it can be
-scarcely retained in the hand, and then it must immediately be bent
-across the knee to such a degree, as to allow the hair of the finished
-bow to lie upon the stick. To accomplish this successfully, a certain
-amount of practice and caution is<span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</span> required. The weight of a bow when
-finished should not exceed 54 to 57 grammes.</p>
-
-<p>Tourte never polished nor varnished his bows, but only rubbed them
-smooth with pumice-stone and linseed-oil. If varnish or polish of any
-kind is ever found on one of his bows, it has been put there by other
-hands than his.</p>
-
-<p>It has often been asserted that Tourte only left the bows unpolished
-and unvarnished from indifference, and I must confess that I also was
-once inclined to this opinion until experience taught me better. About
-30 years ago I bought a beautiful Tourte bow which I handed to Herr
-Joachim to test.</p>
-
-<p>It seemed to him a little too heavy and I, in my want of experience,
-imagined that I could easily meet the wish for diminished weight by
-a little work. I therefore commenced to work with a file upon this
-master-piece, but I found the outer layer of the wood as hard as iron,
-so that I had a great deal of trouble to lessen the circumference of
-the stick. This circumstance surprised me at the outset of the work,
-as in the making of new bows it never occurred to me before. I was in
-great fear, however, at the conclusion of my troublesome work, for I
-found that the bow had lost all elasticity and power.</p>
-
-<p>Later on, the opportunity presented itself to me of proving that
-pernambuco-wood when exposed to the air hardens very rapidly, and I
-am therefore convinced that this fact was known to Tourte and that
-consequently he only rubbed his bows with linseed-oil, in order to
-leave them open to the influence of the air, so that the sticks might
-become hardened and strengthened.</p>
-
-<p>If an old bow has become slightly twisted, which may happen with bows
-of the best make, this fault can be rectified by cautiously bending
-it back to its original form<span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</span> over a charcoal fire, and the bow will
-regain its former elasticity.</p>
-
-<p>If any of my readers desire to study more closely the history of
-stringed instruments, I can recommend to them very highly the work upon
-the subject from the pen of Julius Rühlmann.</p>
-
-
-<p class="center p4">Göttingen, Druck der Dieterich’schen Univ.-Buchdruckerei von W. Fr.
-Kästner.</p>
-
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter transnote">
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="Transcribers_Notes">Transcriber’s Notes</h2>
-
-
-<p>The figures referenced throughout the text are not present in the
-original English edition. You can find them in the original German Die
-Geige und ihr Bau on <a href="https://books.google.fr/books?id=N2hxyAEACAAJ">Google Books</a>.</p>
-
-<p>The numbering of the chapter on the back and edges was corrected to IV. instead of VI. in the <a href="#Index">table of contents</a>.</p>
-
-<p><a href="#Page_10">Page 10</a>: “intsrument makers” changed to “instrument makers”</p>
-
-<p><a href="#Page_28">Page 28</a>: “My opininon” changed to “My opinion”</p>
-
-<p><a href="#Page_34">Page 34</a>: “opon this master-piece” changed to “upon this master-piece”</p>
-</div>
-<div style='display:block; margin-top:4em'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE VIOLIN AND THE ART OF ITS CONSTRUCTION ***</div>
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