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-The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Glamour of the Arctic, by A. Conan Doyle
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and
-most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms
-of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you
-will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before
-using this eBook.
-
-Title: The Glamour of the Arctic
-
-Author: A. Conan Doyle
-
-Release Date: March 1, 2022 [eBook #67515]
-
-Language: English
-
-Produced by: Roger Frank and Sue Clark.
-
-*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE GLAMOUR OF THE ARCTIC ***
-
-
-                      The Glamour of the Arctic
-
-                          By A. Conan Doyle
-
-
-[Illustration]
-
-It is a strange thing to think that there is a body of men in Great
-Britain, the majority of whom have never, since their boyhood, seen
-the corn in the fields. It is the case with the whale-fishers of
-Peterhead. They begin their hard life very early as boys or ordinary
-seamen, and from that time onward they leave home at the end of
-February, before the first shoots are above the ground, and return in
-September, when only the stubble remains to show where the harvest has
-been. I have seen and spoken with many an old whaling-man to whom a
-bearded ear of corn was a thing to be wondered over and preserved.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-The trade which these men follow is old and honorable. There was a
-time when the Greenland seas were harried by the ships of many
-nations, when the Basques and the Biscayens were the great fishers of
-whales, and when Dutchmen, men of the Hansa towns, Spaniards, and
-Britons, all joined in the great blubber hunt. Then one by one, as
-national energy or industrial capital decreased, the various countries
-tailed off, until, in the earlier part of this century, Hull, Poole,
-and Liverpool were three leading whaling-ports. But again the trade
-shifted its centre. Scoresby was the last of the great English
-captains, and from his time the industry has gone more and more north,
-until the whaling of Greenland waters came to be monopolized by
-Peterhead, which shares the sealing, however, with Dundee and with a
-fleet from Norway. But now, alas! the whaling appears to be upon its
-last legs; the Peterhead ships are seeking new outlets in the
-Antarctic seas, and a historical training-school of brave and hardy
-seamen will soon be a thing of the past.
-
-[Illustration: THE SWIVEL GUN.]
-
-It is not that the present generation is less persistent and skilful
-than its predecessors, nor is it that the Greenland whale is in danger
-of becoming extinct; but the true reason appears to be, that Nature,
-while depriving this unwieldy mass of blubber of any weapons, has
-given it in compensation a highly intelligent brain. That the whale
-entirely understands the mechanism of his own capture is beyond
-dispute. To swim backward and forward beneath a floe, in the hope of
-cutting the rope against the sharp edge of the ice, is a common device
-of the creature after being struck. By degrees, however, it was
-realized the fact that there are limits to the powers of its
-adversaries, and that by keeping far in among the icefields it may
-shake off the most intrepid of pursuers. Gradually the creature has
-deserted the open sea, and bored deeper and deeper among the ice
-barriers, until now, at last, it really appears to have reached
-inaccessible feeding grounds; and it is seldom, indeed, that the
-watcher in the crow’s nest sees the high plume of spray and the broad
-black tail in the air which sets his heart a-thumping.
-
-[Illustration: A PETERHEAD HARPOONER.]
-
-But if a man have the good fortune to be present at a “fall,” and,
-above all, if he be, as I have been, in the harpooning and in the
-lancing boat, he has a taste of sport which it would be ill to match.
-To play a salmon is a royal game, but when your fish weighs more than
-a suburban villa, and is worth a clear two thousand pounds; when, too,
-your line is a thumb’s thickness of manilla rope with fifty strands,
-every strand tested for thirty-six pounds, it dwarfs all other
-experiences. And the lancing, too, when the creature is spent, and
-your boat pulls in to give it the _coup de grâce_ with cold steel,
-that is also exciting! A hundred tons of despair are churning the
-waters up into a red foam; two great black fins are rising and falling
-like the sails of a windmill, casting the boat into a shadow as they
-droop over it; but still the harpooner clings to the head, where no
-harm can come, and, with the wooden butt of the twelve-foot lance
-against his stomach, he presses it home until the long struggle is
-finished, and the black back rolls over to expose the livid, whitish
-surface beneath. Yet amid all the excitement—and no one who has not
-held an oar in such a scene can tell how exciting it is—one’s
-sympathies lie with the poor hunted creature. The whale has a small
-eye, little larger than that of a bullock; but I cannot easily forget
-the mute expostulation which I read in one, as it dimmed over in death
-within hand’s touch of me. What could it guess, poor creature, of laws
-of supply and demand; or how could it imagine that when Nature placed
-an elastic filter inside its mouth, and when man discovered that the
-plates of which it was composed were the most pliable and yet durable
-things in creation, its death-warrant was signed?
-
-Of course, it is only the one species, and the very rarest species, of
-whale which is the object of the fishery. The common rorqual or
-finner, largest of creatures upon this planet, whisks its eighty feet
-of worthless tallow round the whaler without fear of any missile more
-dangerous than a biscuit.
-
-[Illustration: A PETERHEAD SEAMAN—BOAT-STEERER.]
-
-This, with its good-for-nothing cousin, the hunchback whale, abounds
-in the Arctic seas, and I have seen their sprays on a clear day
-shooting up along the horizon like the smoke from a busy factory. A
-stranger sight still is, when looking over the bulwarks into the clear
-water, to see, far down, where the green is turning to black, the
-huge, flickering figure of a whale gliding under the ship. And then
-the strange grunting, soughing noise which they make as they come up,
-with something of the contented pig in it, and something of the wind
-in the chimney! Contented they well may be, for the finner has no
-enemies, save an occasional sword-fish; and Nature, which in a
-humorous mood has in the case of the right whale affixed the smallest
-of gullets to the largest of creatures, has dilated the swallow of its
-less valuable brother, so that it can have a merry time among the
-herrings.
-
-The gallant seaman, who in all the books stands in the prow of a boat,
-waving a harpoon over his head, with the line snaking out into the air
-behind him, is only to be found now in Paternoster Row. The Greenland
-seas have not known him for more than a hundred years, since first the
-obvious proposition was advanced that one could shoot both harder and
-more accurately than one could throw. Yet one clings to the ideals of
-one’s infancy, and I hope that another century may have elapsed before
-the brave fellow disappears from the frontispieces, in which he still
-throws his outrageous weapon an impossible distance. The swivel gun,
-like a huge horse-pistol, with its great oakum wad, and twenty-eight
-drams of powder, is a more reliable, but a far less picturesque
-object.
-
-But to aim with such a gun is an art in itself, as will be seen when
-one considers that the rope is fastened to the neck of the harpoon,
-and that, as the missile flies, the downward drag of this rope must
-seriously deflect it. So difficult is it to make sure of one’s aim,
-that it is the etiquette of the trade to pull the boat right on to the
-creature, the prow shooting up its soft, gently-sloping side, and the
-harpooner firing straight down into its broad back, into which not
-only the four-foot harpoon, but ten feet of the rope behind it, will
-disappear. Then, should the whale cast its tail in the air, after the
-time-honored fashion of the pictures, that boat would be in evil case;
-but, fortunately, when frightened or hurt, it does no such thing, but
-curls its tail up underneath it, like a cowed dog, and sinks like a
-stone. Then the bows splash back into the water, the harpooner hugs
-his own soul, the crew light their pipes and keep their legs apart,
-while the line runs merrily down the middle of the boat and over the
-bows. There are two miles of it there, and a second boat will lie
-alongside to splice on if the first should run short, the end being
-always kept loose for that purpose. And now occurs the one serious
-danger of whaling. The line has usually been coiled when it was wet,
-and as it runs out it is very liable to come in loops which whizz down
-the boat between the men’s legs. A man lassoed in one of these nooses
-is gone, and fifty fathoms deep, before the harpooner has time to say,
-“Where’s Jock?” Or if it be the boat itself which is caught, then down
-it goes like a cork on a trout-line, and the man who can swim with a
-whaler’s high boots on is a swimmer indeed. Many a whale has had a
-Parthian revenge in this fashion. Some years ago a man was whisked
-over with a bight of rope round his thigh. “George, man, Alec’s gone!”
-shrieked the boat-steerer, heaving up his axe to cut the line. But the
-harpooner caught his wrist. “Na, na, mun,” he cried, “the oil money’ll
-be a good thing for the widdie.” And so it was arranged, while Alec
-shot on upon his terrible journey.
-
-[Illustration: THE DECK OF A WHALER.]
-
-That oil money is the secret of the frantic industry of these seamen,
-who, when they do find themselves taking grease aboard, will work day
-and night, though night is but an expression up there, without a
-thought of fatigue. For the secure pay of officers and men is low
-indeed, and it is only by their share of the profits that they can
-hope to draw a good check when they return. Even the new-joined boy
-gets his shilling in the ton, and so draws an extra five pounds when a
-hundred tons of oil are brought back. It is practical socialism, and
-yet a less democratic community than a whaler’s crew could not be
-imagined. The captain rules the mates, the mates the harpooners, the
-harpooners the boat-steerers, the boat-steerers the line-coilers, and
-so on in a graduated scale which descends to the ordinary seaman, who,
-in his turn, bosses it over the boys. Every one of these has his share
-of oil money, and it may be imagined what a chill blast of
-unpopularity blows around the luckless harpooner who, by clumsiness or
-evil chance, has missed his whale. Public opinion has a terrorizing
-effect; even in those little floating communities of fifty souls. I
-have known a grizzled harpooner burst into tears when he saw by his
-slack line that he had missed his mark, and Aberdeenshire seamen are
-not a very soft race either.
-
-[Illustration: THE FIRST SIGHT OF THE WHALE.]
-
-Though twenty or thirty whales have been taken in a single year in the
-Greenland seas, it is probable that the great slaughter of last
-century has diminished their number until there are not more than a
-few hundreds in existence. I mean, of course, of the right whale; for
-the others, as I have said, abound. It is difficult to compute the
-numbers of a species which comes and goes over great tracts of water
-and among huge icefields; but the fact that the same whale is often
-pursued by the same whaler upon successive trips shows how limited
-their number must be. There was one, I remember, which was conspicuous
-through having a huge wart, the size and shape of a beehive, upon one
-of the flukes of its tail. “I’ve been after that fellow three times,”
-said the captain, as we dropped our boats. “He got away in ’61. In ’67
-we had him fast, but the harpoon drew. In ’76 a fog saved him. It’s
-odds that we have him now!” I fancied that the betting lay rather the
-other way myself, and so it proved; for that warty tail is still
-thrashing the Arctic seas for all that I know to the contrary.
-
-I shall never forget my own first sight of a right whale. It had been
-seen by the lookout on the other side of a small icefield, but had
-sunk as we all rushed on deck. For ten minutes we awaited its
-reappearance, and I had taken my eyes from the place, when a general
-gasp of astonishment made me glance up, and there was the whale _in
-the air_. Its tail was curved just as a trout’s is in jumping, and
-every bit of its glistening lead-colored body was clear of the water.
-It was little wonder that I should be astonished, for the captain,
-after thirty voyages, had never seen such a sight. On catching it, we
-discovered that it was very thickly covered with a red, crablike
-parasite, about the size of a shilling, and we conjectured that it was
-the irritation of these creatures which had driven it wild. If a man
-had short, nailless flippers, and a prosperous family of fleas upon
-his back, he would appreciate the situation.
-
-When a fish, as the whalers will forever call it, is taken, the ship
-gets alongside, and the creature is fixed head and tail in a curious
-and ancient fashion, so that by slacking or tightening the ropes, each
-part of the vast body can be brought uppermost. A whole boat may be
-seen inside the giant mouth, the men hacking with axes, to slice away
-the ten-foot screens of bone, while others with sharp spades upon the
-back are cutting off the deep great-coat of fat in which kindly Nature
-has wrapped up this most overgrown of her children. In a few hours all
-is stowed away in the tanks, and a red islet, with white projecting
-bones, lies alongside, and sinks like a stone when the ropes are
-loosed. Some years ago, a man, still lingering upon the back, had the
-misfortune to have his foot caught between the creature’s ribs, at the
-instant when the tackles were undone. Some aeons hence those two
-skeletons, the one hanging by the foot from the other, may grace the
-museum of a subtropical Greenland, or astonish the students of the
-Spitzbergen Institute of Anatomy.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-Apart from sport, there is a glamour about those circumpolar regions
-which must affect everyone who has penetrated to them. My heart goes
-out to that old, gray-headed whaling-captain who, having been left for
-an instant when at death’s door, staggered off in his night gear, and
-was found by his nurses far from his house, and still, as he mumbled,
-“pushing to the norrard.” So an Arctic fox, which a friend of mine
-endeavored to tame, escaped, and was caught many months afterwards in
-a gamekeeper’s trap in Caithness. It also was pushing “norrard,”
-though who can say by what strange compass it took its bearings? It is
-a region of purity, of white ice, and of blue water, with no human
-dwelling within a thousand miles to sully the freshness of the breeze
-which blows across the icefields. And then it is a region of romance
-also. You stand on the very brink of the unknown, and every duck that
-you shoot bears pebbles in its gizzard which come from a land which
-the maps know not.
-
-[Illustration: GEORGE, MAN, ALEC’S GONE.]
-
-These whaling-captains profess to see no great difficulty in reaching
-the Pole. Some little margin must be allowed, no doubt, for expansive
-talk over a pipe and a glass, but still there is a striking unanimity
-in their ideas. Briefly they are these: What bars the passage of the
-explorer as he ascends between Greenland and Spitzbergen is that huge
-floating ice-reef which scientific explorers have called “the
-palæocrystic sea,” and the whalers, with more expressive Anglo-Saxon,
-“the barrier.” The ship which has picked its way among the great
-ice-floes finds itself, somewhere about the eighty-first degree,
-confronted by a single mighty wall, extending right across from side
-to side, with no chink or creek up which she can push her bows. It is
-old ice, gnarled and rugged, and of an exceeding thickness, impossible
-to pass, and nearly impossible to travel over, so cut and jagged is
-its surface. Over this it was that the gallant Parry struggled with
-his sledges in 1827, reaching a latitude (about 82° 30’, if my
-remembrance is correct) which for a long time was the record. As far
-as he could see, this old ice extended right away to the Pole.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-Such is the obstacle. Now for the whaler’s view of how it may be
-surmounted.
-
-This ice, they say, solid as it looks, is really a floating body, and
-at the mercy of the water upon which it rests. There is in those seas
-a perpetual southerly drift, which weakens the cohesion of the huge
-mass; and when, in addition to this, the prevailing winds happen to be
-from the north, the barrier is all shredded out, and great bays and
-gulfs appear in its surface. A brisk northerly wind, long continued,
-might at any time clear a road, and has, according to their testimony,
-frequently cleared a road, by which a ship might slip through to the
-Pole. Whalers fishing as far north as the eighty-second degree have in
-an open season seen no ice, and, more important still, no reflection
-of ice in the sky to the north of them. But they are in the service of
-a company; they are there to catch whales, and there is no adequate
-inducement to make them risk themselves, their vessels, and their
-cargoes, in a dash for the north.
-
-[Illustration: SPLITTING WHALEBONE]
-
-The matter might be put to the test without trouble or expense. Take a
-stout wooden gunboat, short and strong, with engines as antiquated as
-you like, if they be but a hundred horse-power. Man her with a
-sprinkling of Scotch and Shetland seamen from the Royal Navy, and let
-the rest of the crew be lads who must have a training-cruise in any
-case. For the first few voyages carry a couple of experienced
-ice-masters, in addition to the usual naval officers. Put a man like
-Markham in command. Then send this ship every June or July to inspect
-the barrier, with strict orders to keep out of the heavy ice unless
-there were a very clear water-way. For six years she might go in vain.
-On the seventh you might have an open season, hard, northerly winds,
-and a clear sea. In any case no expense or danger is incurred, and
-there could be no better training for young seamen. They will find the
-Greenland seas in summer much more healthy and pleasant than the
-Azores or Madeira, to which they are usually despatched. The whole
-expedition should be done in less than a month.
-
-[Illustration: SCRAPING WHALEBONE]
-
-Singular incidents occur in those northern waters, and there are few
-old whalers who have not their queer yarn, which is sometimes of
-personal and sometimes of general interest. There is one which always
-appeared to me to deserve more attention than has ever been given to
-it. Some years ago, Captain David Gray of the “Eclipse,” the _doyen_
-of the trade, and the representative, with his brothers John and Alec,
-of a famous family of whalers, was cruising far to the north, when he
-saw a large bird flapping over the ice. A boat was dropped, the bird
-shot, and brought aboard, but no man there could say what manner of
-fowl it was. Brought home, it was at once identified as being a
-half-grown albatross, and now stands in the Peterhead Museum, with a
-neat little label to that effect between its webbed feet.
-
-Now the albatross is an Antarctic bird, and it is quite unthinkable
-that this solitary specimen flapped its way from the other end of the
-earth. It was young, and possibly giddy, but quite incapable of a wild
-outburst of that sort. What is the alternative? It must have been a
-_southern_ straggler from some breed of albatrosses farther north. But
-if there is a different fauna farther north, then there must be a
-climatic change there. Perhaps Kane was not so far wrong after all in
-his surmise of an open Polar sea. It may be that that flattening at
-the poles of the earth, which always seemed to my childhood’s
-imagination to have been caused by the finger and thumb of the
-Creator, when he held up this little planet before he set it spinning,
-has a greater influence on climate than we have yet ascribed to it.
-But if so, how simple would the task of our exploring ship become when
-a wind from the north had made a rift in the barrier!
-
-There is little land to be seen during the seven months of a
-whaling-cruise. The strange solitary island of Jan Meyen may possibly
-be sighted, with its great snow-capped ex-volcano jutting up among the
-clouds. In the palmy days of the whale-fishing the Dutch had a
-boiling-station there, and now great stones with iron rings let into
-them and rusted anchors lie littered about in this absolute wilderness
-as a token of their former presence. Spitzbergen, too, with its black
-crags and its white glaciers, a dreadful looking place, may possibly
-be seen. I saw it myself, for the first and last time, in a sudden
-rift in the drifting wrack of a furious gale, and for me it stands as
-the very emblem of stern grandeur. And then towards the end of the
-season the whalers come south to the seventy-second degree, and try to
-bore in towards the coast of Greenland, in the south-eastern corner;
-and if you then, at the distance of eighty miles, catch the least
-glimpse of the loom of the cliffs, then, if you are anything of a
-dreamer, you will have plenty of food for dreams, for this is the very
-spot where one of the most interesting questions in the world is
-awaiting a solution.
-
-Of course, it is a commonplace that when Iceland was one of the
-centres of civilization in Europe, the Icelanders budded off a colony
-upon Greenland, which throve and flourished, and produced sagas of its
-own, and waged war upon the Skraelings or Esquimaux, and generally
-sang and fought and drank in the bad old, full-blooded fashion. So
-prosperous did they become, that they built them a cathedral, and sent
-to Denmark for a bishop, there being no protection for local
-industries at that time. The bishop, however, was prevented from
-reaching his see by some sudden climatic change which brought the ice
-down between Iceland and Greenland, and from that day (it was in the
-fourteenth century) to this no one has penetrated that ice, nor has it
-ever been ascertained what became of that ancient city, or of its
-inhabitants. Have they preserved some singular civilization of their
-own, and are they still singing and drinking and fighting, and waiting
-for the bishop from over the seas? Or have they been destroyed by the
-hated Skraelings? Or have they, as is more likely, amalgamated with
-them, and produced a race of tow-headed, large-limbed Esquimaux? We
-must wait until some Nansen turns his steps in that direction before
-we can tell. At present it is one of those interesting historical
-questions, like the fate of those Vandals who were driven by
-Belisarius into the interior of Africa, which are better unsolved.
-When we know everything about this earth, the romance and the poetry
-will all have been wiped away from it. There is nothing so artistic as
-a haze.
-
-There is a good deal which I had meant to say about bears, and about
-seals, and about sea-unicorns, and sword-fish, and all the interesting
-things which combine to throw that glamour over the Arctic; but, as
-the genial critic is fond of remarking, it has all been said very much
-better already. There is one side of the Arctic regions, however,
-which has never had due attention paid to it, and that is the medical
-and curative side. Davos Platz has shown what cold can do in
-consumption, but in the life-giving air of the Arctic Circle no
-noxious germ can live. The only illness of any consequence which ever
-attacks a whaler is an explosive bullet. It is a safe prophecy, that
-before many years are past, steam yachts will turn to the north every
-summer, with a cargo of the weak-chested, and people will understand
-that Nature’s ice-house is a more healthy place than her vapor-bath.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-
-[Transcriber’s Note: This story appeared in the March 1894 issue
-of McClure’s Magazine.]
-
-*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE GLAMOUR OF THE ARCTIC ***
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-<p style='text-align:center; font-size:1.2em; font-weight:bold'>The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Glamour of the Arctic, by A. Conan Doyle</p>
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-<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: The Glamour of the Arctic</p>
-<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: A. Conan Doyle</p>
-<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: March 1, 2022 [eBook #67515]</p>
-<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</p>
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-<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE GLAMOUR OF THE ARCTIC ***</div>
-<div class='ce'>
-<h1>The Glamour of the Arctic </h1>
-<div>By A. Conan Doyle </div>
-</div>
-<div id='i001' class='mt01 mb01 wi001'>
-  <img src='images/illus-001.jpg' alt='' style='width:100%' />
-</div>
-<p>It is a strange thing to think that there is a body of men in Great
-Britain, the majority of whom have never, since their boyhood, seen
-the corn in the fields. It is the case with the whale-fishers of
-Peterhead. They begin their hard life very early as boys or ordinary
-seamen, and from that time onward they leave home at the end of
-February, before the first shoots are above the ground, and return in
-September, when only the stubble remains to show where the harvest has
-been. I have seen and spoken with many an old whaling-man to whom a
-bearded ear of corn was a thing to be wondered over and preserved.</p>
-
-<div id='i002' class='mt01 mb01 wi002'>
-  <img src='images/illus-002.jpg' alt='' style='width:100%' />
-</div>
-<p>The trade which these men follow is old and honorable. There was a
-time when the Greenland seas were harried by the ships of many
-nations, when the Basques and the Biscayens were the great fishers of
-whales, and when Dutchmen, men of the Hansa towns, Spaniards, and
-Britons, all joined in the great blubber hunt. Then one by one, as
-national energy or industrial capital decreased, the various countries
-tailed off, until, in the earlier part of this century, Hull, Poole,
-and Liverpool were three leading whaling-ports. But again the trade
-shifted its centre. Scoresby was the last of the great English
-captains, and from his time the industry has gone more and more north,
-until the whaling of Greenland waters came to be monopolized by
-Peterhead, which shares the sealing, however, with Dundee and with a
-fleet from Norway. But now, alas! the whaling appears to be upon its
-last legs; the Peterhead ships are seeking new outlets in the
-Antarctic seas, and a historical training-school of brave and hardy
-seamen will soon be a thing of the past.</p>
-
-<div id='i003' class='mt01 mb01 wi003'>
-  <img src='images/illus-003.jpg' alt='' style='width:100%' />
-<p class='caption'>THE SWIVEL GUN.</p>
-</div>
-<p>It is not that the present generation is less persistent and skilful
-than its predecessors, nor is it that the Greenland whale is in danger
-of becoming extinct; but the true reason appears to be, that Nature,
-while depriving this unwieldy mass of blubber of any weapons, has
-given it in compensation a highly intelligent brain. That the whale
-entirely understands the mechanism of his own capture is beyond
-dispute. To swim backward and forward beneath a floe, in the hope of
-cutting the rope against the sharp edge of the ice, is a common device
-of the creature after being struck. By degrees, however, it was
-realized the fact that there are limits to the powers of its
-adversaries, and that by keeping far in among the icefields it may
-shake off the most intrepid of pursuers. Gradually the creature has
-deserted the open sea, and bored deeper and deeper among the ice
-barriers, until now, at last, it really appears to have reached
-inaccessible feeding grounds; and it is seldom, indeed, that the
-watcher in the crow’s nest sees the high plume of spray and the broad
-black tail in the air which sets his heart a-thumping.</p>
-
-<div id='i004' class='mt01 mb01 wi004'>
-  <img src='images/illus-004.jpg' alt='' style='width:100%' />
-<p class='caption'>A PETERHEAD HARPOONER.</p>
-</div>
-<p>But if a man have the good fortune to be present at a “fall,” and,
-above all, if he be, as I have been, in the harpooning and in the
-lancing boat, he has a taste of sport which it would be ill to match.
-To play a salmon is a royal game, but when your fish weighs more than
-a suburban villa, and is worth a clear two thousand pounds; when, too,
-your line is a thumb’s thickness of manilla rope with fifty strands,
-every strand tested for thirty-six pounds, it dwarfs all other
-experiences. And the lancing, too, when the creature is spent, and
-your boat pulls in to give it the <i>coup de grâce</i> with cold steel,
-that is also exciting! A hundred tons of despair are churning the
-waters up into a red foam; two great black fins are rising and falling
-like the sails of a windmill, casting the boat into a shadow as they
-droop over it; but still the harpooner clings to the head, where no
-harm can come, and, with the wooden butt of the twelve-foot lance
-against his stomach, he presses it home until the long struggle is
-finished, and the black back rolls over to expose the livid, whitish
-surface beneath. Yet amid all the excitement—and no one who has not
-held an oar in such a scene can tell how exciting it is—one’s
-sympathies lie with the poor hunted creature. The whale has a small
-eye, little larger than that of a bullock; but I cannot easily forget
-the mute expostulation which I read in one, as it dimmed over in death
-within hand’s touch of me. What could it guess, poor creature, of laws
-of supply and demand; or how could it imagine that when Nature placed
-an elastic filter inside its mouth, and when man discovered that the
-plates of which it was composed were the most pliable and yet durable
-things in creation, its death-warrant was signed?</p>
-
-<p>Of course, it is only the one species, and the very rarest species, of
-whale which is the object of the fishery. The common rorqual or
-finner, largest of creatures upon this planet, whisks its eighty feet
-of worthless tallow round the whaler without fear of any missile more
-dangerous than a biscuit.</p>
-
-<div id='i005' class='mt01 mb01 wi005'>
-  <img src='images/illus-005.jpg' alt='' style='width:100%' />
-<p class='caption'>A PETERHEAD SEAMAN—BOAT-STEERER.</p>
-</div>
-<p>This, with its good-for-nothing cousin, the hunchback whale, abounds
-in the Arctic seas, and I have seen their sprays on a clear day
-shooting up along the horizon like the smoke from a busy factory. A
-stranger sight still is, when looking over the bulwarks into the clear
-water, to see, far down, where the green is turning to black, the
-huge, flickering figure of a whale gliding under the ship. And then
-the strange grunting, soughing noise which they make as they come up,
-with something of the contented pig in it, and something of the wind
-in the chimney! Contented they well may be, for the finner has no
-enemies, save an occasional sword-fish; and Nature, which in a
-humorous mood has in the case of the right whale affixed the smallest
-of gullets to the largest of creatures, has dilated the swallow of its
-less valuable brother, so that it can have a merry time among the
-herrings.</p>
-
-<p>The gallant seaman, who in all the books stands in the prow of a boat,
-waving a harpoon over his head, with the line snaking out into the air
-behind him, is only to be found now in Paternoster Row. The Greenland
-seas have not known him for more than a hundred years, since first the
-obvious proposition was advanced that one could shoot both harder and
-more accurately than one could throw. Yet one clings to the ideals of
-one’s infancy, and I hope that another century may have elapsed before
-the brave fellow disappears from the frontispieces, in which he still
-throws his outrageous weapon an impossible distance. The swivel gun,
-like a huge horse-pistol, with its great oakum wad, and twenty-eight
-drams of powder, is a more reliable, but a far less picturesque
-object.</p>
-
-<p>But to aim with such a gun is an art in itself, as will be seen when
-one considers that the rope is fastened to the neck of the harpoon,
-and that, as the missile flies, the downward drag of this rope must
-seriously deflect it. So difficult is it to make sure of one’s aim,
-that it is the etiquette of the trade to pull the boat right on to the
-creature, the prow shooting up its soft, gently-sloping side, and the
-harpooner firing straight down into its broad back, into which not
-only the four-foot harpoon, but ten feet of the rope behind it, will
-disappear. Then, should the whale cast its tail in the air, after the
-time-honored fashion of the pictures, that boat would be in evil case;
-but, fortunately, when frightened or hurt, it does no such thing, but
-curls its tail up underneath it, like a cowed dog, and sinks like a
-stone. Then the bows splash back into the water, the harpooner hugs
-his own soul, the crew light their pipes and keep their legs apart,
-while the line runs merrily down the middle of the boat and over the
-bows. There are two miles of it there, and a second boat will lie
-alongside to splice on if the first should run short, the end being
-always kept loose for that purpose. And now occurs the one serious
-danger of whaling. The line has usually been coiled when it was wet,
-and as it runs out it is very liable to come in loops which whizz down
-the boat between the men’s legs. A man lassoed in one of these nooses
-is gone, and fifty fathoms deep, before the harpooner has time to say,
-“Where’s Jock?” Or if it be the boat itself which is caught, then down
-it goes like a cork on a trout-line, and the man who can swim with a
-whaler’s high boots on is a swimmer indeed. Many a whale has had a
-Parthian revenge in this fashion. Some years ago a man was whisked
-over with a bight of rope round his thigh. “George, man, Alec’s gone!”
-shrieked the boat-steerer, heaving up his axe to cut the line. But the
-harpooner caught his wrist. “Na, na, mun,” he cried, “the oil money’ll
-be a good thing for the widdie.” And so it was arranged, while Alec
-shot on upon his terrible journey.</p>
-
-<div id='i006' class='mt01 mb01 wi006'>
-  <img src='images/illus-006.jpg' alt='' style='width:100%' />
-<p class='caption'>THE DECK OF A WHALER.</p>
-</div>
-<p>That oil money is the secret of the frantic industry of these seamen,
-who, when they do find themselves taking grease aboard, will work day
-and night, though night is but an expression up there, without a
-thought of fatigue. For the secure pay of officers and men is low
-indeed, and it is only by their share of the profits that they can
-hope to draw a good check when they return. Even the new-joined boy
-gets his shilling in the ton, and so draws an extra five pounds when a
-hundred tons of oil are brought back. It is practical socialism, and
-yet a less democratic community than a whaler’s crew could not be
-imagined. The captain rules the mates, the mates the harpooners, the
-harpooners the boat-steerers, the boat-steerers the line-coilers, and
-so on in a graduated scale which descends to the ordinary seaman, who,
-in his turn, bosses it over the boys. Every one of these has his share
-of oil money, and it may be imagined what a chill blast of
-unpopularity blows around the luckless harpooner who, by clumsiness or
-evil chance, has missed his whale. Public opinion has a terrorizing
-effect; even in those little floating communities of fifty souls. I
-have known a grizzled harpooner burst into tears when he saw by his
-slack line that he had missed his mark, and Aberdeenshire seamen are
-not a very soft race either.</p>
-
-<div id='i007' class='mt01 mb01 wi007'>
-  <img src='images/illus-007.jpg' alt='' style='width:100%' />
-<p class='caption'>THE FIRST SIGHT OF THE WHALE.</p>
-</div>
-<p>Though twenty or thirty whales have been taken in a single year in the
-Greenland seas, it is probable that the great slaughter of last
-century has diminished their number until there are not more than a
-few hundreds in existence. I mean, of course, of the right whale; for
-the others, as I have said, abound. It is difficult to compute the
-numbers of a species which comes and goes over great tracts of water
-and among huge icefields; but the fact that the same whale is often
-pursued by the same whaler upon successive trips shows how limited
-their number must be. There was one, I remember, which was conspicuous
-through having a huge wart, the size and shape of a beehive, upon one
-of the flukes of its tail. “I’ve been after that fellow three times,”
-said the captain, as we dropped our boats. “He got away in ’61. In ’67
-we had him fast, but the harpoon drew. In ’76 a fog saved him. It’s
-odds that we have him now!” I fancied that the betting lay rather the
-other way myself, and so it proved; for that warty tail is still
-thrashing the Arctic seas for all that I know to the contrary.</p>
-
-<p>I shall never forget my own first sight of a right whale. It had been
-seen by the lookout on the other side of a small icefield, but had
-sunk as we all rushed on deck. For ten minutes we awaited its
-reappearance, and I had taken my eyes from the place, when a general
-gasp of astonishment made me glance up, and there was the whale <i>in
-the air</i>. Its tail was curved just as a trout’s is in jumping, and
-every bit of its glistening lead-colored body was clear of the water.
-It was little wonder that I should be astonished, for the captain,
-after thirty voyages, had never seen such a sight. On catching it, we
-discovered that it was very thickly covered with a red, crablike
-parasite, about the size of a shilling, and we conjectured that it was
-the irritation of these creatures which had driven it wild. If a man
-had short, nailless flippers, and a prosperous family of fleas upon
-his back, he would appreciate the situation.</p>
-
-<p>When a fish, as the whalers will forever call it, is taken, the ship
-gets alongside, and the creature is fixed head and tail in a curious
-and ancient fashion, so that by slacking or tightening the ropes, each
-part of the vast body can be brought uppermost. A whole boat may be
-seen inside the giant mouth, the men hacking with axes, to slice away
-the ten-foot screens of bone, while others with sharp spades upon the
-back are cutting off the deep great-coat of fat in which kindly Nature
-has wrapped up this most overgrown of her children. In a few hours all
-is stowed away in the tanks, and a red islet, with white projecting
-bones, lies alongside, and sinks like a stone when the ropes are
-loosed. Some years ago, a man, still lingering upon the back, had the
-misfortune to have his foot caught between the creature’s ribs, at the
-instant when the tackles were undone. Some aeons hence those two
-skeletons, the one hanging by the foot from the other, may grace the
-museum of a subtropical Greenland, or astonish the students of the
-Spitzbergen Institute of Anatomy.</p>
-
-<div id='i008' class='mt01 mb01 wi008'>
-  <img src='images/illus-008.jpg' alt='' style='width:100%' />
-</div>
-<p>Apart from sport, there is a glamour about those circumpolar regions
-which must affect everyone who has penetrated to them. My heart goes
-out to that old, gray-headed whaling-captain who, having been left for
-an instant when at death’s door, staggered off in his night gear, and
-was found by his nurses far from his house, and still, as he mumbled,
-“pushing to the norrard.” So an Arctic fox, which a friend of mine
-endeavored to tame, escaped, and was caught many months afterwards in
-a gamekeeper’s trap in Caithness. It also was pushing “norrard,”
-though who can say by what strange compass it took its bearings? It is
-a region of purity, of white ice, and of blue water, with no human
-dwelling within a thousand miles to sully the freshness of the breeze
-which blows across the icefields. And then it is a region of romance
-also. You stand on the very brink of the unknown, and every duck that
-you shoot bears pebbles in its gizzard which come from a land which
-the maps know not.</p>
-
-<div id='i009' class='mt01 mb01 wi009'>
-  <img src='images/illus-009.jpg' alt='' style='width:100%' />
-<p class='caption'>GEORGE, MAN, ALEC’S GONE.</p>
-</div>
-<p>These whaling-captains profess to see no great difficulty in reaching
-the Pole. Some little margin must be allowed, no doubt, for expansive
-talk over a pipe and a glass, but still there is a striking unanimity
-in their ideas. Briefly they are these: What bars the passage of the
-explorer as he ascends between Greenland and Spitzbergen is that huge
-floating ice-reef which scientific explorers have called “the
-palæocrystic sea,” and the whalers, with more expressive Anglo-Saxon,
-“the barrier.” The ship which has picked its way among the great
-ice-floes finds itself, somewhere about the eighty-first degree,
-confronted by a single mighty wall, extending right across from side
-to side, with no chink or creek up which she can push her bows. It is
-old ice, gnarled and rugged, and of an exceeding thickness, impossible
-to pass, and nearly impossible to travel over, so cut and jagged is
-its surface. Over this it was that the gallant Parry struggled with
-his sledges in 1827, reaching a latitude (about 82° 30’, if my
-remembrance is correct) which for a long time was the record. As far
-as he could see, this old ice extended right away to the Pole.</p>
-
-<div id='i010' class='mt01 mb01 wi010'>
-  <img src='images/illus-010.jpg' alt='' style='width:100%' />
-</div>
-<p>Such is the obstacle. Now for the whaler’s view of how it may be
-surmounted.</p>
-
-<p>This ice, they say, solid as it looks, is really a floating body, and
-at the mercy of the water upon which it rests. There is in those seas
-a perpetual southerly drift, which weakens the cohesion of the huge
-mass; and when, in addition to this, the prevailing winds happen to be
-from the north, the barrier is all shredded out, and great bays and
-gulfs appear in its surface. A brisk northerly wind, long continued,
-might at any time clear a road, and has, according to their testimony,
-frequently cleared a road, by which a ship might slip through to the
-Pole. Whalers fishing as far north as the eighty-second degree have in
-an open season seen no ice, and, more important still, no reflection
-of ice in the sky to the north of them. But they are in the service of
-a company; they are there to catch whales, and there is no adequate
-inducement to make them risk themselves, their vessels, and their
-cargoes, in a dash for the north.</p>
-
-<div id='i011' class='mt01 mb01 wi011'>
-  <img src='images/illus-011.jpg' alt='' style='width:100%' />
-<p class='caption'>SPLITTING WHALEBONE</p>
-</div>
-<p>The matter might be put to the test without trouble or expense. Take a
-stout wooden gunboat, short and strong, with engines as antiquated as
-you like, if they be but a hundred horse-power. Man her with a
-sprinkling of Scotch and Shetland seamen from the Royal Navy, and let
-the rest of the crew be lads who must have a training-cruise in any
-case. For the first few voyages carry a couple of experienced
-ice-masters, in addition to the usual naval officers. Put a man like
-Markham in command. Then send this ship every June or July to inspect
-the barrier, with strict orders to keep out of the heavy ice unless
-there were a very clear water-way. For six years she might go in vain.
-On the seventh you might have an open season, hard, northerly winds,
-and a clear sea. In any case no expense or danger is incurred, and
-there could be no better training for young seamen. They will find the
-Greenland seas in summer much more healthy and pleasant than the
-Azores or Madeira, to which they are usually despatched. The whole
-expedition should be done in less than a month.</p>
-
-<div id='i012' class='mt01 mb01 wi012'>
-  <img src='images/illus-012.jpg' alt='' style='width:100%' />
-<p class='caption'>SCRAPING WHALEBONE</p>
-</div>
-<p>Singular incidents occur in those northern waters, and there are few
-old whalers who have not their queer yarn, which is sometimes of
-personal and sometimes of general interest. There is one which always
-appeared to me to deserve more attention than has ever been given to
-it. Some years ago, Captain David Gray of the “Eclipse,” the <i>doyen</i>
-of the trade, and the representative, with his brothers John and Alec,
-of a famous family of whalers, was cruising far to the north, when he
-saw a large bird flapping over the ice. A boat was dropped, the bird
-shot, and brought aboard, but no man there could say what manner of
-fowl it was. Brought home, it was at once identified as being a
-half-grown albatross, and now stands in the Peterhead Museum, with a
-neat little label to that effect between its webbed feet.</p>
-
-<p>Now the albatross is an Antarctic bird, and it is quite unthinkable
-that this solitary specimen flapped its way from the other end of the
-earth. It was young, and possibly giddy, but quite incapable of a wild
-outburst of that sort. What is the alternative? It must have been a
-<i>southern</i> straggler from some breed of albatrosses farther north. But
-if there is a different fauna farther north, then there must be a
-climatic change there. Perhaps Kane was not so far wrong after all in
-his surmise of an open Polar sea. It may be that that flattening at
-the poles of the earth, which always seemed to my childhood’s
-imagination to have been caused by the finger and thumb of the
-Creator, when he held up this little planet before he set it spinning,
-has a greater influence on climate than we have yet ascribed to it.
-But if so, how simple would the task of our exploring ship become when
-a wind from the north had made a rift in the barrier!</p>
-
-<p>There is little land to be seen during the seven months of a
-whaling-cruise. The strange solitary island of Jan Meyen may possibly
-be sighted, with its great snow-capped ex-volcano jutting up among the
-clouds. In the palmy days of the whale-fishing the Dutch had a
-boiling-station there, and now great stones with iron rings let into
-them and rusted anchors lie littered about in this absolute wilderness
-as a token of their former presence. Spitzbergen, too, with its black
-crags and its white glaciers, a dreadful looking place, may possibly
-be seen. I saw it myself, for the first and last time, in a sudden
-rift in the drifting wrack of a furious gale, and for me it stands as
-the very emblem of stern grandeur. And then towards the end of the
-season the whalers come south to the seventy-second degree, and try to
-bore in towards the coast of Greenland, in the south-eastern corner;
-and if you then, at the distance of eighty miles, catch the least
-glimpse of the loom of the cliffs, then, if you are anything of a
-dreamer, you will have plenty of food for dreams, for this is the very
-spot where one of the most interesting questions in the world is
-awaiting a solution.</p>
-
-<p>Of course, it is a commonplace that when Iceland was one of the
-centres of civilization in Europe, the Icelanders budded off a colony
-upon Greenland, which throve and flourished, and produced sagas of its
-own, and waged war upon the Skraelings or Esquimaux, and generally
-sang and fought and drank in the bad old, full-blooded fashion. So
-prosperous did they become, that they built them a cathedral, and sent
-to Denmark for a bishop, there being no protection for local
-industries at that time. The bishop, however, was prevented from
-reaching his see by some sudden climatic change which brought the ice
-down between Iceland and Greenland, and from that day (it was in the
-fourteenth century) to this no one has penetrated that ice, nor has it
-ever been ascertained what became of that ancient city, or of its
-inhabitants. Have they preserved some singular civilization of their
-own, and are they still singing and drinking and fighting, and waiting
-for the bishop from over the seas? Or have they been destroyed by the
-hated Skraelings? Or have they, as is more likely, amalgamated with
-them, and produced a race of tow-headed, large-limbed Esquimaux? We
-must wait until some Nansen turns his steps in that direction before
-we can tell. At present it is one of those interesting historical
-questions, like the fate of those Vandals who were driven by
-Belisarius into the interior of Africa, which are better unsolved.
-When we know everything about this earth, the romance and the poetry
-will all have been wiped away from it. There is nothing so artistic as
-a haze.</p>
-
-<p>There is a good deal which I had meant to say about bears, and about
-seals, and about sea-unicorns, and sword-fish, and all the interesting
-things which combine to throw that glamour over the Arctic; but, as
-the genial critic is fond of remarking, it has all been said very much
-better already. There is one side of the Arctic regions, however,
-which has never had due attention paid to it, and that is the medical
-and curative side. Davos Platz has shown what cold can do in
-consumption, but in the life-giving air of the Arctic Circle no
-noxious germ can live. The only illness of any consequence which ever
-attacks a whaler is an explosive bullet. It is a safe prophecy, that
-before many years are past, steam yachts will turn to the north every
-summer, with a cargo of the weak-chested, and people will understand
-that Nature’s ice-house is a more healthy place than her vapor-bath.</p>
-
-<div id='i013' class='mt01 mb01 wi013'>
-  <img src='images/illus-013.jpg' alt='' style='width:100%' />
-</div>
-<div class='tn'>
-  <p style='text-indent:0'>Transcriber’s Note: This story appeared in
-  the March 1894 issue of <i>McClure’s Magazine</i>.</p>
-</div>
-<div style='display:block; margin-top:4em'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE GLAMOUR OF THE ARCTIC ***</div>
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