diff options
| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 05:28:06 -0700 |
|---|---|---|
| committer | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 05:28:06 -0700 |
| commit | daa5e66ddedad04dc6cf549e06edce21f55d28b0 (patch) | |
| tree | 7ad400ca62f4a8f0597436a7c70c61b1227ecc63 | |
| -rw-r--r-- | .gitattributes | 3 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | 6749-0.txt | 9531 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | 6749-0.zip | bin | 0 -> 204553 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 6749-8.txt | 9531 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | 6749-8.zip | bin | 0 -> 204355 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 6749.txt | 9530 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | 6749.zip | bin | 0 -> 204133 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | LICENSE.txt | 11 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | README.md | 2 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/7vcv210.txt | 9488 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/7vcv210.zip | bin | 0 -> 203413 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/8vcv210.txt | 9488 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/8vcv210.zip | bin | 0 -> 203621 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/8vcv210u.txt | 9488 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/8vcv210u.zip | bin | 0 -> 203811 bytes |
15 files changed, 57072 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/6749-0.txt b/6749-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..173f313 --- /dev/null +++ b/6749-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,9531 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Voyages of Samuel de Champlain, Vol. 2, by +Samuel de Champlain + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most +other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions +whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of +the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at +www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have +to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. + +Title: Voyages of Samuel de Champlain, Vol. 2 + +Author: Samuel de Champlain + +Posting Date: October 5, 2014 [EBook #6749] +Release Date: October, 2004 +First Posted: January 21, 2003 +Last Updated: December 23, 2015 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK VOYAGES OF DE CHAMPLAIN, VOL 2 *** + + + + +Produced by Karl Hagen, Juliet Sutherland, Charles Franks, +and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team. Images +provided courtesy of www.canadiana.org. + + + + + + + + + + +Transcriber's Notes: +The original text of this edition used tall-s. These have been replaced +with ordinary 's'. The original footnotes have been converted to endnotes +and placed at the end of each chapter. The original numbering has been +retained. The number 176-1/2 and presence of two notes numbered [283] are +both original. + +THE +PUBLICATIONS OF THE PRINCE SOCIETY +Established May 25th, 1858. + +CHAMPLAIN'S VOYAGES. + + +VOYAGES +OF +SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN. + +TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH +BY CHARLES POMEROY OTIS, PH.D. + +WITH HISTORICAL ILLUSTRATIONS, +AND A +MEMOIR + +BY THE REV. EDMUND F. SLAFTER, A.M. + +VOL. II. +1604-1610. + +HELIOTYPE COPIES OF TWENTY LOCAL MAPS. + +Editor: +THE REV. EDMUND F. SLAFTER, A.M. + + + + +PREFACE. + +Champlain's edition of 1613 contains, in connection with the preliminary +matter, two pieces of poetry, one signed L'ANGE, Paris, the other MOTIN. +They were contributed doubtless by some friend, intended to be +complimentary to the author, to embellish the volume and to give it a +favorable introduction to the reader. This was in conformity to a +prevailing custom of that period. They contain no intrinsic historical +interest or value whatever, and, if introduced, would not serve their +original purpose, but would rather be an incumbrance, and they have +consequently been omitted in the present work. + +Champlain also included a summary of chapters, identical with the headings +of chapters in this translation, evidently intended to take the place of an +index, which he did not supply. To repeat these headings would be +superfluous, particularly as this work is furnished with a copious index. + +The edition of 1613 was divided into two books. This division has been +omitted here, both as superfluous and confusing. + +The maps referred to on Champlain's title-page may be found in Vol. III. of +this work. In France, the needle deflects to the east; and the dial-plate, +as figured on the larger map, that of 1612, is constructed accordingly. On +it the line marked _nornordest_ represents the true north, while the index +is carried round to the left, and points out the variation of the needle to +the west. The map is oriented by the needle without reference to its +variation, but the true meridian is laid down by a strong line on which the +degrees of latitude are numbered. From this the points of the compass +between any two places may be readily obtained. + +A Note, relating to Hudson's discoveries in 1612, as delineated on +Champlain's small map, introduced by him in the prefatory matter, +apparently after the text had been struck off, will appear in connection +with the map itself, where it more properly belongs. + +E. F. S. + +BOSTON, 11 BEACON STREET, +October 21, 1878. + + + + +TABLE OF CONTENTS + +PREFACE +CHAMPLAIN'S DEDICATION OF HIS WORK TO THE KING +ADDRESS TO THE QUEEN REGENT +EXTRACT FROM THE LICENSE +VOYAGE 1604 TO 1608 +FIRST VOYAGE AS LIEUTENANT, 1608 TO 1610 +SECOND VOYAGE AS LIEUTENANT, 1610 +LOCAL MAPS: + Port de la Hève + Port du Roissignol + Port du Mouton + Port Royal + Port des Mines + Rivière St. Jehan + Isle de Sainte Croix + Habitation de L'Isle Ste. Croix + Quinibequy + Chouacoit R. + Port St. Louis + Malle Barre + L'Abitation du Port Royal + Le Beau Port + Port Fortuné + The Attack at Port Fortuné + Port de Tadoucac + Quebec + Abitation de Quebecq + Defeat of the Iroquois at Lake Champlain +INDEX + + + + +THE VOYAGES +OF SIEUR DE CHAMPLAIN, + +Of Saintonge, Captain in ordinary to the +King in the Marine. + +OR, + +_A MOST FAITHFUL JOURNAL OF OBSERVATIONS +made in the exploration of New France, describing not only the countries, +coasts, rivers, ports, and harbors, with their latitudes and the various +deflections of the Magnetic Needle, but likewise the religious belief of +the inhabitants, their superstitions, mode of life and warfare; furnished +with numerous illustrations_. + +Together with two geographical maps: the first for the purposes of +navigation, adapted to the compass as used by mariners, which deflects to +the north-east; the other in its true meridian, with longitudes and +latitudes, to which is added the Voyage to the Strait north of Labrador, +from the 53d to the 63d degree of latitude, discovered in 1612 by the +English when they were searching for a northerly course to China. + +PARIS. + +JEAN BERJON, + +Rue St. Jean de Beauvais, at the Flying Horse, +and at his store in the Palace, +at the gallery of the Prisoners. + +MDCXIII. + +_WITH AUTHORITY OF THE KING_. + + + + +TO THE KING. + +_Sire, + +Your Majesty has doubtless full knowledge of the discoveries made in your +service in New France, called Canada, through the descriptions, given by +certain Captains and Pilots, of the voyages and discoveries made there +during the past eighty years. These, however, present nothing so honorable +to your Kingdom, or so profitable to the service of your Majesty and your +subjects, as will, I doubt not, the maps of the coasts, harbors, rivers, +and the situation of the places described in this little treatise, which I +make bold to address to your Majesty, and which is entitled a Journal of +Voyages and Discoveries, which I have made in connection with Sieur de +Monts, your Lieutenant in New France. This I do, feeling myself urged by a +just sense of the honor I have received during the last ten years in +commissions, not only, Sire, from your Majesty, but also from the late +king, Henry the Great, of happy memory, who commissioned me to make the +most exact researches and explorations in my power. This I have done, and +added, moreover, the maps contained in this little book, where I have set +forth in particular the dangers to which one would be liable. The subjects +of your Majesty, whom you may be pleased hereafter to employ for the +preservation of what has been discovered, will be able to avoid those +dangers through the knowledge afforded by the maps contained in this +treatise, which will serve as an example in your kingdom for increasing the +glory of your Majesty, the welfare of your subjects, and for the honor of +the very humble service, for which, to the happy prolongation of your days, +is indebted, + +SIRE, + +Your most humble, most obedient, +and most faithful servant and subject, + +CHAMPLAIN_. + + + + +TO THE QUEEN REGENT, + +MOTHER OF THE KING. + +MADAME, + +Of all the most useful and excellent arts, that of navigation has always +seemed to me to occupy the first place. For the more hazardous it is, and +the more numerous the perils and losses by which it is attended, so much +the more is it esteemed and exalted above all others, being wholly unsuited +to the timid and irresolute. By this art we obtain knowledge of different +countries, regions, and realms. By it we attract and bring to our own land +all kinds of riches, by it the idolatry of paganism is overthrown and +Christianity proclaimed throughout all the regions of the earth. This is +the art which from my early age has won my love, and induced me to expose +myself almost all my life to the impetuous waves of the ocean, and led me +to explore the coasts of a part of America, especially of New France, where +I have always desired to see the Lily flourish, and also the only religion, +catholic, apostolic, and Roman. This I trust now to accomplish with the +help of God, assisted by the favor of your Majesty, whom I most humbly +entreat to continue to sustain us, in order that all may succeed to the +honor of God, the welfare of France, and the splendor of your reign, for +the grandeur and prosperity of which I will pray God to attend you always +with a thousand blessings, and will remain, + +MADAME, + Your most humble, most obedient, + and most faithful servant and subject, + CHAMPLAIN. + + + + +EXTRACT FROM THE LICENSE. + +By letters patent of the KING, given at Paris the ninth of January, 1613, +and in the third year of our reign, by the King in his Council, PERREAU, +and sealed with the simple yellow seal, it is permitted to JEAN BERJON, +printer and bookseller in this city of Paris, to print, or have printed by +whomsoever it may seem good to him, a book entitled _The Voyages of Samuel +de Champlain of Saintonge, Captain in ordinary for the King in the Marine, +&c._, for the time and limit of six entire consecutive years, from the day +when this book shall have been printed up to the said time of six years. By +the same letters, in like manner all printers, merchant booksellers, and +any others whatever, are forbidden to print or have printed, to sell or +distribute said book during the aforesaid time, without the special consent +of said BERJON, or of him to whom he shall give permission, on pain of +confiscation of so many of said books as shall be found, and a +discretionary fine, as is more fully set forth in the aforesaid letters. + + + + +VOYAGES +OF +SIEUR DE CHAMPLAIN. + + +VOYAGE IN THE YEAR 1604. + +CHAPTER I. + +THE BENEFITS OF COMMERCE HAVE INDUCED SEVERAL PRINCES TO SEEK AN EASIER +ROUTE FOR TRAFFIC WITH THE PEOPLE OF THE EAST.--SEVERAL UNSUCCESSFUL +VOYAGES.--DETERMINATION OF THE FRENCH FOR THIS PURPOSE.--UNDERTAKING OF +SIEUR DE MONTS: HIS COMMISSION AND ITS REVOCATION.--NEW COMMISSION TO SIEUR +DE MONTS TO ENABLE HIM TO CONTINUE HIS UNDERTAKING. + +The inclinations of men differ according to their varied dispositions; and +each one in his calling has his particular end in view. Some aim at gain, +some at glory, some at the public weal. The greater number are engaged in +trade, and especially that which is transacted on the sea. Hence arise the +principal support of the people, the opulence and honor of states. This is +what raised ancient Rome to the sovereignty and mastery over the entire +world, and the Venetians to a grandeur equal to that of powerful kings. It +has in all times caused maritime towns to abound in riches, among which +Alexandria and Tyre are distinguished, and numerous others, which fill up +the regions of the interior with the objects of beauty and rarity obtained +from foreign nations. For this reason, many princes have striven to find a +northerly route to China, in order to facilitate commerce with the +Orientals, in the belief that this route would be shorter and less +dangerous. + +In the year 1496, the king of England commissioned John Cabot and his son +Sebastian to engage in this search. [1] About the same time, Don Emanuel, +king of Portugal, despatched on the same errand Gaspar Cortereal, who +returned without attaining his object. Resuming his journeys the year +after, he died in the undertaking; as did also his brother Michel, who was +prosecuting it perseveringly. [2] In the years 1534 and 1535, Jacques +Cartier received a like commission from King Francis I., but was arrested +in his course. [3] Six years after, Sieur de Roberval, having renewed it, +sent Jean Alfonse of Saintonge farther northward along the coast of +Labrador; [4] but he returned as wise as the others. In the years 1576, +1577, and 1578, Sir Martin Frobisher, an Englishman, made three voyages +along the northern coasts. Seven years later, Humphrey Gilbert, also an +Englishman, set out with five ships, but suffered shipwreck on Sable +Island, where three of his vessels were lost. In the same and two following +years, John Davis, an Englishman, made three voyages for the same object; +penetrating to the 72d degree, as far as a strait which is called at the +present day by his name. After him, Captain Georges made also a voyage in +1590, but in consequence of the ice was compelled to return without having +made any discovery. [5] The Hollanders, on their part, had no more precise +knowledge in the direction of Nova Zembla. + +So many voyages and discoveries without result, and attended with so much +hardship and expense, have caused us French in late years to attempt a +permanent settlement in those lands which we call New France, [6] in the +hope of thus realizing more easily this object; since the voyage in search +of the desired passage commences on the other side of the ocean, and is +made along the coast of this region. [7] These considerations had induced +the Marquis de la Roche, in 1598, to take a commission from the king for +making a settlement in the above region. With this object, he landed men +and supplies on Sable Island; [8] but, as the conditions which had been +accorded to him by his Majesty were not fulfilled, he was obliged to +abandon his undertaking, and leave his men there. A year after, Captain +Chauvin accepted another commission to transport Settlers to the same +region; [9] but, as this was shortly after revoked, he prosecuted the +matter no farther. + +After the above, [10] notwithstanding all these accidents and +disappointments, Sieur de Monts desired to attempt what had been given up +in despair, and requested a commission for this purpose of his Majesty, +being satisfied that the previous enterprises had failed because the +undertakers of them had not received assistance, who had not succeeded, in +one nor even two years' time, in making the acquaintance of the regions and +people there, nor in finding harbors adapted for a settlement. He proposed +to his Majesty a means for covering these expenses, without drawing any +thing from the royal revenues; viz., by granting to him the monopoly of the +fur-trade in this land. This having been granted to him, he made great and +excessive outlays, and carried out with him a large number of men of +various vocations. Upon his arrival, he caused the necessary number of +habitations for his followers to be constructed. This expenditure he +continued for three consecutive years, after which, in consequence of the +jealousy and annoyance of certain Basque merchants, together with some from +Brittany, the monopoly which had been granted to him was revoked by the +Council to the great injury and loss of Sieur de Monts, who, in consequence +of this revocation, was compelled to abandon his entire undertaking, +sacrificing his labors and the outfit for his settlement. + +But since a report had been made to the king on the fertility of the soil +by him, and by me on the feasibility of discovering the passage to China, +[11] without the inconveniences of the ice of the north or the heats of the +torrid zone, through which our sailors pass twice in going and twice in +returning, with inconceivable hardships and risks, his Majesty directed +Sieur de Monts to make a new outfit, and send men to continue what he had +commenced. This he did. And, in view of the uncertainty of his commission, +[12] he chose a new spot for his settlement, in order to deprive jealous +persons of any such distrust as they had previously conceived. He was also +influenced by the hope of greater advantages in case of settling in the +interior, where the people are civilized, and where it is easier to plant +the Christian faith and establish such order as is necessary for the +protection of a country, than along the sea-shore, where the savages +generally dwell. From this course, he believed the king would derive an +inestimable profit; for it is easy to suppose that Europeans will seek out +this advantage rather than those of a jealous and intractable disposition +to be found on the shores, and the barbarous tribes. [13] + +ENDNOTES: + +1. The first commission was granted by Henry VII. of England to John Cabot + and his three sons, Lewis, Sebastian, and Sancius, March 5, 1496.-- + _Rymer's Foedera_, Vol. XII. p. 595. The first voyage, however, was made + in 1497. The second commission was granted to John Cabot alone, in + 1498.--_Vide Hakluyt_, 1600, London, ed. 1810, Vol. III. pp. 25-31. + +2. Cortereal made two voyages under the patronage of Emmanuel, King of + Portugal, the first in 1500, the second in 1501. In the latter year, he + sailed with two ships from Lisbon, and explored six hundred miles or + more on our northern coast. The vessel in which he sailed was lost; and + he perished, together with fifty natives whom he had captured. The other + vessel returned, and reported the incidents of the expedition. The next + year, Michael Cortereal, the brother of Gaspar, obtained a commission, + and went in search of his brother; but he did not return, and no tidings + were ever heard of him. + +3. Jacques Cartier made three voyages in 1534, 1535, and 1540, + respectively, in which he effected very important discoveries; and + Charlevoix justly remarks that Cartier's Memoirs long served as a guide + to those who after him navigated the gulf and river of St. Lawrence. For + Cartier's commission, see _Hazard's State Papers_, Vol. I. p. 19. + +4. Roberval's voyage was made in 1542, and is reported by Jean Alfonse.-- + _Vide Hakluyt_, 1600, London, ed. 1810, Vol. III. p. 291. On an old map, + drawn about the middle of the sixteenth century, Roberval is represented + in a full-length portrait, clad in mail, with sword and spear, at the + head of a band of armed soldiers, penetrating into the wilds of Canada, + near the head-waters of the Saguenay. The name, "Monsr. de Roberual," is + inserted near his feet,--_Vide Monuments de la Géographie_, XIX., par + M. Jomard, Paris. + +5. For the narrative of the voyages of Frobisher, Gilbert, and Davis, _vide + Hakluyt_, Vol. III. Of the fleet of five vessels commanded by Sir + Humphrey Gilbert, in 1583, the Ralegh put back to England, on account of + sickness on board; the Golden Hinde returned safely to port; the + _Swallow_ was left at Newfoundland, to bring home the sick; the + _Delight_ was lost near Sable Island; and the _Squirrel_ went down on + its way to England, some days after leaving Sable Island. Thus two only + were lost, while a third was left. + + There must have been some error in regard to the voyage of Captain + Georges. There is no printed account of a voyage at that time by any one + of this name. There are two theories on which this statement may be + explained. There may have been a voyage by a Captain Georges, which, for + some unknown reason, was never reported; or, what is more likely, + Champlain may refer to the voyage of Captain George Weymouth, undertaken + in 1602 for the East Ind. Company, which was defeated by the icebergs + which he encountered, and the mutiny of his men. It was not uncommon to + omit part of a name at that period. Of Pont Gravé, the last name is + frequently omitted by Champlain and by Lescarbot. The report of + Weymouth's voyage was not printed till after Champlain wrote; and he + might easily have mistaken the date. + +6. The name of New France, _Novus Francisca_, appears on a map in Ptolemy + published at Basle in 1530. + +7. The controlling object of the numerous voyages to the north-east coast + of America had hitherto been to discover a shorter course to India. In + this respect, as Champlain states above, they had all proved + failures. He here intimates that the settlements of the French on this + coast were intended to facilitate this design. It is obvious that a + colonial establishment would offer great advantages as a base in + prosecuting searches for this desired passage to Cathay. + +8. For some account of this disastrous expedition, see _Memoir_, Vol. I. + +9. _Vide Memoir_, Vol. I. + +10. It will be observed that Champlain does not mention the expedition sent + out by Commander de Chastes, probably because its object was + exploration, and not actual settlement.--_Vide_ an account of De + Chastes in the _Memoir_, Vol. I. + +11. In Champlain's report of the voyage of 1603, after obtaining what + information he could from the natives relating to the St. Lawrence and + the chain of lakes, he says they informed him that the last lake in the + chain was salt, and he therefore believed it to be the South Sea. He + doubtless enlarged verbally before the king upon the feasibility of a + passage to China in this way. + +12. The commission here referred to was doubtless the one renewed to him in + 1608, after he had made his searches on the shores of New England and + Nova Scotia, and after the commission or charter of 1603 had been + revoked. + + Champlain is here stating the advantages of a settlement in the + interior, on the shores of the St. Lawrence, rather than on the + Atlantic coast. + +13. In this chapter, Champlain speaks of events stretching through several + years; but in the next he confines himself to the occurrences of 1603, + when De Monts obtained his charter. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +DESCRIPTION OF SABLE ISLAND; CAPE BRETON; LA HÈVE; PORT AU MOUTON; PORT +CAPE NEGRE; SABLE BAY AND CAPE; CORMORANT ISLAND; CAPE FOURCHU; LONG +ISLAND; BAY OF SAINT MARY; PORT SAINT MARGARET; AND OF ALL NOTEWORTHY +OBJECTS ALONG THIS COAST. + +Sieur de Monts, by virtue of his commission [14] having published in all +the ports and harbors of this kingdom the prohibition against the violation +of the monopoly of the fur-trade accorded him by his Majesty, gathered +together about one hundred and twenty artisans, whom he embarked in two +vessels: one of a hundred and twenty tons, commanded by Sieur de Pont +Gravé; [15] another, of a hundred and fifty tons, in which he embarked +himself, [16] together with several noblemen. + +We set out from Havre de Grâce April 7th, 1604, and Pont Gravé April 10th, +to rendezvous at Canseau, [17] twenty leagues from Cape Breton. [18] But +after we were in mid-ocean, Sieur de Monts changed his plan, and directed +his course towards Port Mouton, it being more southerly and also more +favorable for landing than Canseau. + +On May 1st, we sighted Sable Island, where we ran a risk of being lost in +consequence of the error of our pilots, who were deceived in their +calculation, which they made forty leagues ahead of where we were. + +This island is thirty leagues distant north and South from Cape Breton, and +in length is about fifteen leagues. It contains a small lake. The island is +very sandy, and there are no trees at all of considerable size, only copse +and herbage, which serve as pasturage for the bullocks and cows, which the +Portuguese carried there more than sixty years ago, and which were very +serviceable to the party of the Marquis de la Roche. The latter, during +their sojourn of several years there, captured a large number of very fine +black foxes, [19] whose skins they carefully preserved. There are many +sea-wolves [20] there, with the skins of which they clothed themselves +since they had exhausted their own stock of garments. By order of the +Parliamentary Court of Rouen, a vessel was sent there to recover them. [21] +The directors of the enterprise caught codfish near the island, the +neighborhood of which abounds in shoals. + +On the 8th of the same month, we sighted Cap de la Hève, [22] to the east +of which is a bay, containing several islands covered with fir-trees. On +the main land are oaks, elms, and birches. It joins the coast of La Cadie +at the latitude of 44° 5', and at 16° 15' of the deflection of the magnetic +needle, distant east-north-east eighty-five leagues from Cape Breton, of +which we shall speak hereafter. + +On the 12th of May, we entered another port, [23] five leagues +from Cap de la Hève, where we captured a vessel engaged +in the fur-trade in violation of the king's prohibition. The +master's name was Rossignol, whose name the port retained, +which is in latitude 44° 15'. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +PORT DE LA HÈVE. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. The place where vessels anchor. +_B_. A small river dry at low tide. +_C_. Places where the savages have their cabins.[Note: The letter C is + wanting, but the location of the cabins is obvious.] +_D_. Shoal at the entrance of the harbor. [Note: The letter D is also + wanting, but the figures sufficiently indicate the depth of the + water.] +_E_. A small island covered with wood. [Note: The letter E appears twice by + mistake.] +_F_. Cape de la Hève [Note: The letter F is likewise wanting. It has been + supposed to be represented by one of the E's on the small island, but + Cap de la Hève, to which it refers, was not on this island, but on the + main land. The F should have been, we think, on the west of the + harbor, where the elevation is indicated on the map. _Vide_ note 22.] + + * * * * * + +On the 13th of May, we arrived at a very fine harbor, where there are two +little streams, called Port au Mouton, [24] which is seven leagues distant +from that of Rossignol. The land is very stony, and covered with copse and +heath. There are a great many rabbits, and a quantity of game in +consequence of the ponds there. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +PORT DU ROSSIGNOL. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. A river extending twenty-five leagues inland. +_B_. The place where vessels anchor. +_C_. Place on the main land where the savages have their dwellings. +_D_. Roadstead where vessels anchor while waiting for the tide. +_E_. Place on the island where the savages have their cabins. +_F_. Channel dry at low tide. +_G_. Shore of the main land. The dotted places indicate the shoals. + +NOTE. It would seem as if in the title Rossynol, on the map, the two dots +on the _y_ instead of the _n_ were placed there by mistake. + + * * * * * + +As Soon as we had disembarked, each one commenced making huts after his +fashion, on a point at the entrance of the harbor near two fresh-water +ponds. Sieur de Monts at the Same time despatched a shallop, in which he +sent one of us, with some savages as guides as bearers of letters, along +the coast of La Cadie, to search for Pont Gravé, who had a portion of the +necessary supplies for our winter sojourn. The latter was found at the Bay +of All-Isles, [25] very anxious about us (for he knew nothing of the change +of plan); and the letters were handed to him. As soon as be had read them, +he returned to his ship at Canseau, where he seized some Basque vessels +[26] engaged in the fur-trade, notwithstanding the prohibition of his +Majesty, and sent their masters to Sieur de Monts, who meanwhile charged me +to reconnoitre the coast and the harbors suitable for the secure reception +of our vessel. + +With the purpose of carrying out his wishes, I set out from Port Mouton on +the 19th of May, in a barque of eight tons, accompanied by Sieur Ralleau, +his secretary, and ten men. Advancing along the coast, we entered a harbor +very convenient for vessels, at the end of which is a small river, +extending very far into the main land. This I called the Port of Cape +Negro, [27] from a rock whose distant view resembles a negro, which rises +out of the water near a cape passed by us the same day, four leagues off +and ten from Port Mouton. This cape is very dangerous, on account of the +rocks running out into the sea. The shores which I saw, up to that point, +are very low, and covered with such wood as that seen at the Cap de la +Hève; and the islands are all filled with game. Going farther on, we passed +the night at Sable Bay, [28] where vessels can anchor without any danger. + +The next day we went to Cape Sable, [29] also very dangerous, in +consequence of certain rocks and reefs extending almost a league into the +sea. It is two leagues from Sable Bay, where we had spent the night before. +Thence we went to Cormorant Island, [30] a league distant, so called from +the infinite number of cormorants found there, of whose eggs we collected a +cask full. From this island, we sailed westerly about six leagues, crossing +a bay, which makes up to the north two or three leagues. Then we fell in +with several islands [31] distant two or three leagues from the main land; +and, as well as I could judge, some of them were two leagues in extent, +others three, and others were still smaller. Most of them are very +dangerous for large vessels to approach, on account of the tides and the +rocks on a level with the water. These islands are filled with pines, firs, +birches, and aspens. A little farther out, there are four more. In one, we +saw so great a quantity of birds, called penguins, [32] that we killed them +easily with sticks. On another, we found the shore completely covered with +sea-wolves, [33] of which we captured as many as we wished. At the two +others there is such an abundance of birds of different sorts that one +could not imagine it, if he had not seen them. There are cormorants, three +kinds of duck, geese, _marmettes?_, bustards, sea-parrots, snipe, vultures, +and other birds of prey; gulls, sea-larks of two or three kinds; herons, +large sea-gulls, curlews, sea-magpies, divers, ospreys, _appoils?_, ravens, +cranes, and other sorts which I am not acquainted with, and which also make +their nests here. [34] We named these Sea-Wolf Islands. They are in +latitude 43° 30', distant from four to five leagues from the main land, or +Cape Sable. After spending pleasantly some time there in hunting (and not +without capturing much game), we set out and reached a cape, [35] which we +christened Port Fourchu from its being fork-shaped, distant from five to +six leagues from the Sea-Wolf Islands. This harbor is very convenient for +vessels at its entrance; but its remoter part is entirely dry at low tide, +except the channel of a little stream, completely bordered by meadows, +which make this spot very pleasant. There is good codfishing near the +harbor. Departing from there, we sailed north ten or twelve leagues without +finding any harbor for our vessels, but a number of very fine inlets or +shores, where the soil seems to be well adapted for cultivation. The woods +are exceedingly fine here, but there are few pines and firs. This coast is +clear, without islands, rocks, or shoals; so that, in our judgment, vessels +can securely go there. Being distant quarter of a league from the coast, we +went to an island called Long Island, [36] lying north-north-east and +south-south-west, which makes an opening into the great Baye Françoise, +[37] so named by Sieur de Monts. + +This island is six leagues long, and nearly a league broad in some places, +in others only quarter of a league. It is covered with an abundance of +wood, such as pines and birch. All the coast is bordered by very dangerous +rocks; and there is no place at all favorable for vessels, only little +inlets for shallops at the extremity of the island, and three or four small +rocky islands, where the savages capture many sea-wolves. There are strong +tides, especially at the little passage [38] of the island, which is very +dangerous for vessels running the risk of passing through it. + +From Long Island passage, we sailed north-east two leagues, when we found a +cove [39] where vessels can anchor in safety, and which is quarter of a +league or thereabouts in circuit. The bottom is all mire, and the +surrounding land is bordered by very high rocks. In this place there is a +very good silver mine, according to the report of the miner, Master Simon, +who accompanied me. Some leagues farther on there is a little stream called +river Boulay [40] where the tide rises half a league into the land, at the +mouth of which vessels of a hundred tons can easily ride at anchor. Quarter +of a league from here there is a good harbor for vessels, where we found an +iron mine, which our miner estimated would yield fifty per cent [41] +Advancing three leagues farther on to the northeast [42] we saw another +very good iron mine, near which is a river surrounded by beautiful and +attractive meadows. The neighboring soil is red as blood. Some leagues +farther on there is still another river, [43] dry at low tide, except in +its very small channel, and which extends near to Port Royal. At the +extremity of this bay is a channel, also dry at low tide [44] surrounding +which are a number of pastures and good pieces of land for cultivation, +where there are nevertheless great numbers of fine trees of all the kinds +previously mentioned. The distance from Long Island to the end of this bay +may be some six leagues. The entire coast of the mines is very high, +intersected by capes, which appear round, extending out a short distance. +On the other side of the bay, on the south-east, the land is low and good, +where there is a very good harbor, having a bank at its entrance over which +it is necessary to pass. On this bar there is a fathom and a half of water +at low tide; but after passing it you find three, with good bottom. Between +the two points of the harbor there is a pebbly islet, covered at full +tide. This place extends half a league inland. The tide falls here three +fathoms, and there are many shell-fish, such as muscles, cockles, and +sea-snails. The soil is as good as any that I have seen. I named this +harbor Saint Margaret. [45] This entire south-east coast is much lower than +that of the mines, which is only a league and a half from the coast of +Saint Margaret, being Separated by the breadth of the bay, [46] which is +three leagues at its entrance. I took the altitude at this place, and found +the latitude 45° 30', and a little more,[47] the deflection of the magnetic +needle being 17° 16'. + +After having explored as particularly as I could the coasts, ports, and +harbors, I returned, without advancing any farther, to Long Island passage, +whence I went back outside of all the islands in order to observe whether +there was any danger at all on the water side. But we found none whatever, +except there were some rocks about half a league from Sea-Wolf Islands, +which, however, can be easily avoided, since the sea breaks over them. +Continuing our voyage, we were overtaken by a violent wind, which obliged +us to run our barque ashore, where we were in danger of losing her, which +would have caused us extreme perplexity. The tempest having ceased, we +resumed the sea, and the next day reached Port Mouton, where Sieur de Monts +was awaiting us from day to day, thinking only of our long stay, [48] and +whether some accident had not befallen us. I made a report to him of our +voyage, and where our vessels might go in Safety. Meanwhile, I observed +very particularly that place which is in latitude 44°. + +The next day Sieur de Monts gave orders to weigh anchor and proceed to the +Bay of Saint Mary, [49] a place which we had found to be Suitable for our +vessel to remain in, until we should be able to find one more advantageous. +Coasting along, we passed near Cape Sable and the Sea-Wolf Islands, whither +Sieur de Monts decided to go in a shallop, and see some islands of which we +had made a report to him, as also of the countless number of birds found +there. Accordingly, he set out, accompanied by Sieur de Poutrincourt, and +several other noblemen, with the intention of going to Penguin Island, +where we had previously killed with sticks a large number of these +birds. Being somewhat distant from our ship, it was beyond our power to +reach it, and still less to reach our vessel; for the tide was so strong +that we were compelled to put in at a little island to pass the night, +where there was much game. I killed there some river-birds, which were very +acceptable to us, especially as we had taken only a few biscuits, expecting +to return the same day. The next day we reached Cape Fourchu, distant half +a league from there. Coasting along, we found our vessel in the Bay of +Saint Mary. Our company were very anxious about us for two days, fearing +lest some misfortune had befallen us; but, when they saw us all safe, they +were much rejoiced. + +Two or three days after our arrival, one of our priests, named Mesire Aubry +[50] from Paris, got lost so completely in the woods while going after his +sword, which he had forgotten, that he could not find the vessel. And he +was thus seventeen days without any thing to subsist upon except some sour +and bitter plants like the sorrel, and some small fruit of little substance +large as currants, which creep upon the ground. [51] Being at his wits' +end, without hope of ever seeing us again, weak and feeble, he found +himself on the shore of Baye Françoise, thus named by Sieur de Monts, near +Long Island, [52] where his strength gave out, when one of our shallops out +fishing discovered him. Not being able to shout to them, he made a sign +with a pole, on the end of which he had put his hat, that they should go +and get him. This they did at once, and brought him off. Sieur de Monts had +caused a search to be made not only by his own men, but also by the savages +of those parts, who scoured all the woods, but brought back no intelligence +of him. Believing him to be dead, they all saw him coming back in the +shallop to their great delight. A long time was needed to restore him to +his usual strength. + +ENDNOTES: + +14. _Vide Commission du Roy au Sieur de Monts, pour l'habitation és terres + de la Cadie, Canada, et autres endroits en la Nouvelle-France_, + Histoire de a Nouvelle-France, par Marc Lescarbot, Paris, 1612, Qvat. + Liv. p. 431. This charter may also be found in English in a _Collection + of Voyages and Travels compiled from the Library of the Earl of Oxford, + by Thomas Osborne_, London, 1745, Vol. II. pp. 796-798; also in + _Murdoch's History of Nova Scotia_, Halifax, 1865, Vol. I. pp. 21-24. + +15. The second officer, or pilot, was, according to Lescarbot, Captain + Morel, of Honfleur. + +16. This was under the direction of De Monts himself; and Captain Timothée, + of Havre de Grâce, was pilot, or the second officer. + +17. Lescarbot writes this name Campseau; Champlain's orthography is + Canceau; the English often write Canso, but more correctly Canseau. It + has been derived from _Cansoke_, an Indian word, meaning _facing the + frowning cliffs_. + +18. The Cape and Island of Cape Breton appear to have taken their name from + the fisherman of Brittany, who frequented that region as early as 1504 + --_Vide Champlain's Voyages_, Paris 1632, p. 9. + + Thévet sailed along the coast in 1556, and is quoted by Laverdière, as + follows: "In this land there is a province called Compestre de Berge, + extending towards the south-east: in the eastern part of the same is + the cape or promontory of Lorraine, called so by us; others have given + it the came of the Cape of the Bretons, since the Bretons, the + Bisayans, and Normans repair thither, and coast along on their way to + Newfoundland to fish for codfish." + + An inscription, "_tera que soy descuberta per pertonnes_," on an Old + Portuguese map of 1520, declares it to be a country discovered by the + Bretons. It is undoubtedly the oldest French name on any part of North + America. On Gastaldo's map in Mattiolo's Italian translation of + Ptolemy, 1548, the name of Breton is applied both to Nova Scotia and to + the Island of Cape Breton. + +19. Winthrop says that Mr. John Rose, who was cast away on Sable Island + about 1633, "saw about eight hundred cattle, small and great, all red, + and the largest he ever saw: and many foxes, wherof some perfect + black."--_Whinthrop's Hist. New Eng._, Boston, 1853, Vol. I. p. 193. + + Champlain doubtless obtained his information in regard to the cattle + left upon Sable Island by the Portuguese from the from the report of + Edward Haies on the voyage of Sir Humphrey Gilbert in 1583: + + "Sablon lieth to the seaward of Cape Briton about twenty-five leagues, + whither we were determined to goe vpon intelligence we had of a + Portugal (during our abode in S. Johns) who was himselfe present, when + the Portugals (aboue thirty yeeres past) did put in the same Island + both Neat and Swine to breede, which were since exceedingly multiplied. + This seemed vnto vs very happy tidings, to haue in an Island lying so + neere vnto the maine, which we intended to plant vpon. Such store of + cattell, whereby we might at all times conueniently be relieued of + victuall, and serued of store for breed."--_Edward Haies in Hakluyt's + Voyages_, London, ed. 1810. Vol. III. p. 197. + +20. "Loups marins," seals. + +21. "The forty poor wretches whom he left on Sable Island found on the + seashore some wrecks of vessels, out of which they built barracks to + shield themselves from the severity of the weather. They were the + remains of Spanish vessels, which had sailed to settle Cape Breton. + From these same ships had come some sheep and cattle, which had + multiplied on Sable Island; and this was for some time a resource for + these poor exiles. Fish was their next food; and, when their clothes + were worn out, they made new ones of seal-skin. At last, after a lapse + of seven years, the king, having heard of their adventure, obliged + Chedotel, the pilot, to go for them; but he found only twelve, the rest + having died of their hardships. His majesty desired to see those, who + returned in the same guise as found by Chedotel, covered with + seal-skin, with their hair and beard of a length and disorder that made + them resemble the pretended river-gods, and so disfigured as to inspire + horror. The king gave them fifty crowns apiece, and sent them home + released from all process of law."--_Shea's Charlevoix_, New York, + 1866, Vol. I. p. 244. See also _Sir William Alexander and American + Colonization_, Prince Society, 1873, p. 174; _Murdoch's Nova Scotia_, + Vol. I. p. 11; _Hakluyt_, Vol. II. pp. 679. 697. + +22. This cape still bears the same name, and is the western point of the + bay at the mouth of a river, likewise of the same name, in the county + of Lunenberg, Nova Scotia. It is an abrupt cliff, rising up one hundred + and fifty feet above the level of the sea. It could therefore be seen + at a great distance, and appears to have been the first land sighted by + them on the coast of La Cadie. A little north of Havre de Grâce, in + Normandy, the port from which De Monts and Champlain had sailed, is to + be seen the high, commanding, rocky bluff, known as _Cap de la Hève_. + The place which they first sighted, similar at least in some respects, + they evidently named after this bold and striking headland, which may, + perhaps, have been the last object which they saw on leaving the shores + of France. The word _Hève_ seems to have had a local meaning, as may be + inferred from the following excerpt: "A name, in Lower Normandy, for + cliffs hollowed out below, and where fishermen search for crabs."-- + _Littré_. The harbor delineated on Champlain's local map is now called + Palmerston Bay, and is at the mouth of Petit River. The latitude of + this harbor is about 44° 15'. De Laet's description is fuller than that + of Champlain or Lescarbot.--_Vide Novus Orbis_, 1633, p. 51. + +23. Liverpool, which for a long time bore the name of Port Rossignol; the + lake at the head of the river, about ten miles long and two or three + wide, the largest in Nova Scotia, still bears that appellation. The + latitude is 44° 2' 30". + +24. "Lequel ils appelèrent _Le Port du Mouton_, à l'occasion d'un mouton + qui s'estant nové revint à bord, et fut mangé de bonne guerre."-- + _Histoire de la Nouvelle-France_, par Marc Lescarbot, Paris, 1612, + Qvat. Liv. p. 449. It still bears the name of Port Mouton, and an + island in the bay is called Mouton Island. + +25. _Baye de Toutes-isles_. Lescarbot calls it "La Baye des Iles:" and + Charlevoix, "Baye de toutes les Isles." It was the bay, or rather the + waters, that stretch along the shores of Halifax County, between Owl's + Head and Liscomb River. + +26. The confiscated provisions taken in the vessels of the Basque + fur-traders and in that of Rossignol were, according to Lescarbot, + found very useful. De Monts had given timely notice of his monopoly; + and, whether it had reached them or not, they were doubtless wrong in + law. Although De Monts treated them with gentleness, nevertheless it is + not unlikely that a compromise would have been better policy than an + entire confiscation of their property, as these Basques afterwards, on + their return to France, gave him serious inconvenience. They were + instrumental mainly in wresting from him his charter of La Cadie. + +27. _Le Port du Cap Negré_. This port still bears the name of Negro + Harbor. It is situated at the mouth of the Clyde, the small river + referred to in the text. + +28. Near Cape Sable Island, at what is now known as Barrington Harbor. + +29. This is still called Cape Sable, and is the southern point of Sable + Island, or, more properly, the cluster of rock, and islets that + surround its southern extremity. + +30. _Isle aux Cormorans_. It is difficult to distinguish with certainty the + island here referred to, but it was probably Hope Island, as this lies + directly in their way in crossing the bay, six leagues wide, which is + now known as Townsend Bay. The bird here mentioned was the common + cormorant. _Graculus carbo_, of a glossy greenish-black color, back and + wings bronzy-gray; about three feet in length, and is common on our + northern Atlantic coast: eminently gregarious, particularly in the + breeding season, congregating in vast flocks. At the present time, it + breeds in great numbers in Labrador and Newfoundland, and in the winter + migrates as far south as the Middle States. They feed principally upon + fish, lay commonly two eggs, of a pale greenish color, overlaid with a + white chalky substance.--_Vide Cones's Key to Nor. Am. Birds_. Boston, + 1872. p. 302. + +31. A cluster of islands now known as the Tousquet or Tusket Islands. + Further on, Champlain says they named them _Isles aux loups marins_. + Sea-Wolf Islands. About five leagues south of them is an island now + called Seal Island. The four more which he saw a little further on were + probably in Townsend Bay. + +32. This is the Auk, family _Alcidae_, and must not be confounded with the + penguin of the southern hemisphere, although it is described by the + early navigators of the Northern Atlantic under that appellation. In + Anthony Parkhurst's letter to Hakluyt, 1578, he says: "These birds are + also called Penguins, and cannot flie, there is more meate in one of + these then in a goose: the Frenchmen that fish neere the grand baie, do + bring small store of flesh with them, but victuall themselves alwayes + with these birds."--_Hakluyt_, London, ed. 1810, Vol. III. p. 172. + Edward Haies, in his report of the voyage of Sir Humphrey Gilbert in + 1583, say's: "We had sight of an Island named Penguin, of a foule there + breeding in abundance, almost incredible, which cannot flie, their + wings not able to carry their body, being very large (not much lesse + then a goose), and exceeding fat: which the Frenchmen use to take + without difficulty upon that Island, and to barrell them up with salt." + _Idem_, p. 191. + + The Auk is confined to the northern hemisphere, where it represents the + penguins of the southern. Several species occur in the Northern + Atlantic in almost incredible numbers: they are all marine, feed on + fish and other animal substances exclusively, and lay from one to three + eggs on the bare rocks. Those seen by Champlain and other early + navigators were the Great Auk. _Alca impennis_, now nearly extinct. It + was formerly found on the coast of New England, as is proved not only + by the testimony of the primitive explorers, but by the remains found + in shell-heaps. The latest discovery was of one found dead near + St. Augustine, in Labrador, in 1870. A specimen of the Great Auk is + preserved in the Cambridge Museum.--_Vide Coues's Key to North Am. + Birds_, Boston, 1872. p. 338. + +33. The sea-wolf or _loup marin_ of Champlain is the marine mammiferous + quadruped of the family Phocidae, known as the seal. Sea-wolf was a + name applied to it by the early navigators.--_Vide Purchas's Pilgrims_, + London, 1625. Vol. IV. p. 1385. Those here mentioned were the common + seal, _Phoca vitulina_, which are still found on the coasts of Nova + Scotia, vulgarly known as the harbor seal. They are thinly distributed + as far south as Long Island Sound, but are found in great numbers in + the waters of Labrador and Newfoundland, where they are taken for the + oil obtained from them, and for the skins, which are used for various + purposes in the arts. + +34. The names given to these birds were such, doubtless, as were known to + belong to birds similar in color, size, and figure in Europe. Some of + them were probably misapplied. The name alone is not sufficient for + identification. + +35. This cape, near the entrance to Yarmouth, still bears the same name, + from _fourchu_, forked. On a map of 1755, it is called Forked Cape, and + near it is Fork Ledge and Forked Harbor.--_Memorials of English and + French Commissaries_, London, 1755. + +36. It still retains the name given to it by Champlain. It forms a part of + the western limit of St. Mary's Bay, and a line drawn from it to the + St. Croix, cutting the Grand Manan, would mark the entrance of the Bay + of Fundy. + +37. The Bay of Fundy was thus first named "Baye Françoise" by De Monts, and + continued to be so called, as will appear by reference to the early + maps, as that of De Laet, 1633; Charlevoix, 1744; Rouge, 1778. It first + appears distinctly on the carte of Diego Homem of 1558, but without + name. On Cabot's Mappe-Monde, in "Monuments de la Géographie," we find + _rio fondo_, which may represent the Bay of Fundy, and may have + suggested the name adopted by the English, which it still retains. Sir + William Alexander's map, 1624, has Argal's Bay; Moll's map, 1712, has + Fundi Bay; that of the English and French Commissaries, 1755, has Bay + of Fundy, or Argal. + +38. This strait, known by the name Petit Passage, separates Long Island + from Digby Neck. + +39. A place called Little River, on Digby Neck. + +40. Now known as Sandy Cove. + +41. Lescarbot says of this iron mine, and of the silver mine above, that + they were proved not to be abundant. + +42. This was probably near Rossway. + +43. This was clearly Smith Creek or Smelt River, which rises near Annapolis + Basin, or the Port Royal Basin of the French. + +44. He here doubtless refers to North Creek, at the north-eastern extremity + of St. Mary's Bay. + +45. Now Weymouth Harbor, on the south-eastern shore of St. Mary's Bay, at + the mouth of Sissibou River, and directly opposite Sandy Cove, near the + iron mine mentioned above. + +46. The distance across the bay at this point, as here stated, is nearly + accurate. + +47. This is clearly a mistake; the true latitude at the Petit Passage is + 44° 23'. It may here be remarked that Champlain's latitudes are very + inaccurate, often varying more than half a degree; doubtless owing to + the imperfection of the instruments which were employed in taking them. + +48. They had been occupied in this exploration about three weeks, Lescarbot + says a month, but this is an overstatement. By a careful examination of + the text, it will appear that they departed from Port Mouton on the + 19th of May, and that several days after their return, not less than + nine, they were again in St. Mary's Bay, on the 16th of June. They had + been absent, therefore, about twenty-one days. The latitude of Port + Mouton, stated a little below to be 44°, is in fact 43° 57'. + +49. This bay, still retaining its ancient appellation, was so named by + Champlain on his first visit. "Ceste baye fut nommée la baye Saincte + Marie."--_Champlain's Voyages_, 1632, Quebec ed., Vol. V. p. 716. + +50. Nicholas Aubry, a young Parisian of good family, "vn certain homme + d'Église," as Lescarbot says, probably not long in holy orders, had + undertaken this voyage with De Monts to gratify his desire to see the + New World, though quite against the wishes of his friends, who had sent + in vain to Honfleur to prevent his embarkation. After the search made + by De Monts, with the sounding of trumpets and the discharge of cannon, + they left St. Mary's Bay, having given up all expectation of his + recovery. Some two weeks afterward, an expedition was Sent out to + St. Mary's Bay, conducted by De Champdoré, an experienced pilot, with a + mineralogist, to search for silver and iron ore. While Some of the + party were on a fishing excursion, they rescued him, as stated in the + text. The safe return of the young and too venturesome ecclesiastic + gave great relief to De Monts, as Lescarbot says a Protestant was + charged to have killed him, because they quarrelled sometimes about + their religion.--_Vide Histoire de Nouvelle-France_, par Mare + Lescarbot, Paris, 1612, Qvat. Liv. p. 453. + +51. The partridge-berry, Mitchella, a trailing evergreen, bearing scarlet + berries, edible but nearly tasteless, which remain through the winter. + It is peculiar to America, and this is probably the first time it was + noticed by any historical writer. + +52. He was on the western side of Digby Neck, at its southern extremity, + near the Petit Passage on the shore of the Bay of Fundy. + + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +DESCRIPTION OF PORT ROYAL AND THE PECULIARITIES OF THE SAME.--ISLE HAUTE.-- +PORT OF MINES.--BAYE FRANÇOISE.-THE RIVER ST. JOHN, AND WHAT WE OBSERVED +BETWEEN THE PORT OF MINES AND THE SAME.--THE ISLAND CALLED BY THE SAVAGES +MANTHANE.--THE RIVER OF THE ETECHEMINS, AND SEVERAL FINE ISLANDS THERE.-- +ST. CROIX ISLAND, AND OTHER NOTEWORTHY OBJECTS ON THIS COAST. + +Some days after, Sieur de Monts decided to go and examine the coasts of +Baye Françoise. For this purpose, he set out from the vessel on the 16th of +May,[53] and we went through the strait of Long Island.[54] Not having +found in St. Mary's Bay any place in which to fortify ourselves except at +the cost of much time, we accordingly resolved to see whether there might +not be a more favorable one in the other bay. Heading north-east six +leagues, there is a cove where vessels can anchor in four, five, six, and +seven fathoms of water. The bottom is sandy. This place is only a kind of +roadstead.[55] Continuing two leagues farther on in the same direction, we +entered one of the finest harbors I had seen along all these coasts, in +which two thousand vessels might lie in security. The entrance is eight +hundred paces broad; then you enter a harbor two leagues long and one +broad, which I have named Port Royal.[56] Three rivers empty into it, one +of which is very large, extending eastward, and called Rivière de +l'Équille,[57] from a little fish of the size of an _esplan?_, which is +caught there in large numbers, as is also the herring, and several other +kinds of fish found in abundance in their season. This river is nearly a +quarter of a league broad at its entrance, where there is an island [58] +perhaps half a league in circuit, and covered with wood like all the rest +of the country, as pines, firs, spruces, birches, aspens, and some oaks, +although the latter are found in small numbers in comparison with the other +kinds. There are two entrances to the above river, one on the north, the +other on the south side of the island. That on the north is the better, and +vessels can there anchor under shelter of the island in five, six, seven, +eight, and nine fathoms. But it is necessary to be on one's guard against +some shallows near the island on the one side, and the main land on the +other, very dangerous, if one does not know the channel. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S DESCRIPTION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +PORT AU MOUTON. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. Place where vessels lie. +_B_. Place where we made our camp. +_C_. A pond. +_D_. An island at the entrance to the harbor, covered with wood. +_E_. A river very shallow. +_F_. A pond. +_G_. A very large brook coming from the pond F. +_H_. Six little islands in the harbor. +_L_. Country, containing only copse and heath of very small size. +_M_. Sea-shore. + +NOTE.--The wanting letter L should probably be placed where the trees are +represented as very small, between the letters B and the island F. + + * * * * * + +We ascended the river some fourteen or fifteen leagues, where the tide +rises, and it is not navigable much farther. It has there a breadth of +sixty paces, and about a fathom and a half of water. The country bordering +the river is filled with numerous oaks, ashes, and other trees. Between the +mouth of the river and the point to which we ascended there are many +meadows, which are flooded at the spring tides, many little streams +traversing them from one side to the other, through which shallops and +boats can go at full tide. This place was the most favorable and agreeable +for a settlement that we had seen. There is another island [59] within the +port, distant nearly two leagues from the former. At this point is another +little stream, extending a considerable distance inland, which we named +Rivière St. Antoine. [60] Its mouth is distant from the end of the Bay of +St. Mary some four leagues through the woods. The remaining river is only a +small stream filled with rocks, which cannot be ascended at all on account +of the small amount of water, and which has been named Rocky Brook. [61] +This place is in latitude [62] 45°; and 17° 8' of the deflection of the +magnetic needle. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S DESCRIPTION OF THE MAP + +PORT ROYAL + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. Our habitation. [Note: On the present site of Lower Granville.] + +_B_. Garden of Sieur de Champlain. +_C_. Road through the woods that Sieur de Poutrincourt had made. +_D_. Island at the mouth of Équille River. +_E_. Entrance to Port Royal, +_F_. Shoals, dry at low tide. +_G_. River St. Antoine. [Note: The stream west of river St. Antoine is the + Jogging River.] +_H_. Place under cultivation for sowing wheat. [Note: The site of the + present town of Annapolis.] +_I_. Mill that Sieur de Poutrincourt had made. +_L_. Meadows overflowed at highest tides. +_M_. Équille River. +_N_. Seacoast of Port Royal. +_O_. Ranges of mountains. +_P_. Island near the river St. Antoine. +_Q_. Rocky Brook. [Footnote: Now called Deep Brook.] +_R_. Another brook. [Note: Morris River.] +_S_. Mill River. [Note: Allen River.] +_T_. Small lake. +_V_. Place where the savages catch herring in the season. +_X_. Trout brook. [Note: Trout Brook is now called Shäfer's Brook, and the + first on the west is Thorne's, and the second Scofield's Brook.] +_Y_. A lane that Sieur de Champlain had made. + + * * * * * + +After having explored this harbor, we set out to advance farther on in Baye +Françoise, and see whether we could not find the copper mine, [63] which +had been discovered the year before. Heading north-east, and sailing eight +or ten leagues along the coast of Port Royal,[64] we crossed a part of the +bay Some five or six leagues in extent, when we arrived at a place which we +called the Cape of Two Bays;[65] and we passed by an island a league +distant therefrom, a league also in circuit, rising up forty or forty-five +fathoms. [66] It is wholly surrounded by great rocks, except in one place +which is sloping, at the foot of which slope there is a pond of salt water, +coming from under a pebbly point, having the form of a spur. The surface of +the island is flat, covered with trees, and containing a fine spring of +water. In this place is a copper mine. Thence we proceeded to a harbor a +league and a half distant, where we supposed the copper mine was, which a +certain Prevert of St. Malo had discovered by aid of the savages of the +country. This port is in latitude 45° 40', and is dry at low tide. [67] In +order to enter it, it is necessary to place beacons, and mark out a +sand-bank at the entrance, which borders a channel that extends along the +main land. Then you enter a bay nearly a league in length, and half a +league in breadth. In some places, the bottom is oozy and sandy, where +vessels may get aground. The sea falls and rises there to the extent of +four or five fathoms. We landed to see whether we could find the mines +which Prevert had reported to us. Having gone about a quarter of a league +along certain mountains, we found none, nor did we recognize any +resemblance to the description of the harbor he had given us. Accordingly, +he had not himself been there, but probably two or three of his men had +been there, guided by some savages, partly by land and partly by little +streams, while he awaited them in his shallop at the mouth of a little +river in the Bay of St. Lawrence.[68] These men, upon their return, +brought him several small pieces of copper, which he showed us when he +returned from his voyage. Nevertheless, we found in this harbor two mines +of what seemed to be copper according to the report of our miner, who +considered it very good, although it was not native copper. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S DESCRIPTION OF THE MAP. + +PORT DES MINES. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. A place where vessels are liable to run aground. +_B_. A Small river. +_C_. A tongue of land composed of Sand. +_D_. A point composed of large pebbles, which is like a mole. +_E_. Location of a copper mine, which is covered by the tide twice a day. +_F_. An island to the rear of the Cape of Mines. [Note: Now called + Spencer's Island. Champlain probably obtained his knowledge of this + island at a subsequent visit. There is a creek extending from near + Spencer's Island between the rocky elevations to Advocate's Harbor, or + nearly so, which Champlain does not appear to have seen, or at least + he does not represent it on his map. This point, thus made an island + by the creek, has an elevation of five hundred feet, at the base of + which was the copper mine which they discovered.--_Vide_ note 67.] +_G_. Roadstead where vessels anchor while waiting for the tide. +_H_. Isle Haute, which is a league and a half from Port of Mines. +_I_. Channel. +_L_. Little River. +_M_. Range of mountains along the coast of the Cape of Mines. + + * * * * * + +The head [69] of the Baye Françoise, which we crossed, is fifteen leagues +inland. All the land which we have seen in coasting along from the little +passage of Long Island is rocky, and there is no place except Port Royal +where vessels can lie in Safety. The land is covered with pines and +birches, and, in my opinion, is not very good. + +On the 20th of May,[70] we set out from the Port of Mines to seek a place +adapted for a permanent stay, in order to lose no time, purposing +afterwards to return, and see if we could discover the mine of pure copper +which Prevert's men had found by aid of the savages. We sailed west two +leagues as far as the cape of the two bays, then north five or six leagues; +and we crossed the other bay,[71] where we thought the copper mine was, of +which we have already spoken: inasmuch as there are there two rivers, [72] +the one coming from the direction of Cape Breton, and the other from Gaspé +or Tregatté, near the great river St. Lawrence. Sailing west some six +leagues, we arrived at a little river,[73] at the mouth of which is rather +a low cape, extending out into the sea; and a short distance inland there +is a mountain,[74] having the shape of a Cardinal's hat. In this place we +found an iron mine. There is anchorage here only for shallops. Four leagues +west south-west is a rocky point [75] extending out a short distance into +the water, where there are strong tides which are very dangerous. Near the +point we saw a cove about half a league in extent, in which we found +another iron mine, also very good. Four leagues farther on is a fine bay +running up into the main land;[76] at the extremity of which there are +three islands and a rock; two of which are a league from the cape towards +the west, and the other is at the mouth of the largest and deepest river we +had yet seen, which we named the river St. John, because it was on this +saint's day that we arrived there.[77] By the savages it is called +Ouygoudy. This river is dangerous, if one does not observe carefully +certain points and rocks on the two sides. It is narrow at its entrance, +and then becomes broader. A certain point being passed, it becomes narrower +again, and forms a kind of fall between two large cliffs, where the water +runs so rapidly that a piece of wood thrown in is drawn under and not seen +again. But by waiting till high tide you can pass this fall very easily. +[78] Then it expands again to the extent of about a league in some places, +where there are three islands. We did not explore it farther up.[79] But +Ralleau, secretary of Sieur de Monts, went there some time after to see a +savage named Secondon, chief of this river, who reported that it was +beautiful, large, and extensive, with many meadows and fine trees, as oaks, +beeches, walnut-trees, and also wild grapevines. The inhabitants of the +country go by this river to Tadoussac, on the great river St. Lawrence, +making but a short portage on the journey. From the river St. John to +Tadoussac is sixty-five leagues.[80] At its mouth, which is in latitude +45° 40', there is an iron mine.[81] + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S DESCRIPTION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +RIVIÈRE ST. JEHAN. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. Three islands above the falls. [Note: The islands are not close + together as here represented. One is very near the main land on one + shore, and two on the other.] +_B_. Mountains rising up from the main land, two leagues south of the + river. +_C_. The fall in the river. +_D_. Shoals where vessels, when the tide is out, are liable to run aground. +_E_. Cabin where the savages fortify themselves. +_F_. A pebbly point where there is a cross. +_G_. An island at the entrance of the river. [Note: Partridge Island.] +_H_. A Small brook coming from a little pond. [Note: Mill Pond.] +_I_. Arm of the sea dry at low tide. [Note: Marsh Creek, very shallow but + not entirely dry at low tide.] +_L_. Two little rocky islets. [Note: These islets are not now represented + on the charts, and are probably rocks near the shore from which the + soil may have been washed away since 1604.] +_M_. A small pond. +_N_. Two brooks. +_O_. Very dangerous shoals along the coast, which are dry at low tide. +_P_. Way by which the savages carry their canoes in passing the falls. +_Q_. Place for anchoring where the river runs with full current. + + * * * * * + +From the river St. John we went to four islands, on one of which we landed, +and found great numbers of birds called magpies,[82] of which we captured +many small ones, which are as good as pigeons. Sieur de Poutrincourt came +near getting lost here, but he came back to our barque at last, when we had +already gone to search for him about the island, which is three leagues +distant from the main land. Farther west are other islands; among them one +six leagues in length, called by the savages Manthane,[83] south of which +there are among the islands several good harbors for vessels. From the +Magpie Islands we proceeded to a river on the main land called the river of +the Etechemins,[84] a tribe of savages so called in their country. We +passed by so many islands that we could not ascertain their number, which +were very fine. Some were two leagues in extent, others three, others more +or less. All of these islands are in a bay,[85] having, in my estimation, a +circuit of more than fifteen leagues. There are many good places capable of +containing any number of vessels, and abounding in fish in the season, such +as codfish, salmon, bass, herring, halibut, and other kinds in great +numbers. Sailing west-north-west three leagues through the islands, we +entered a river almost half a league in breadth at its mouth, sailing up +which a league or two we found two islands: one very small near the western +bank; and the other in the middle, having a circumference of perhaps eight +or nine hundred paces, with rocky sides three or four fathoms high all +around, except in one small place, where there is a sandy point and clayey +earth adapted for making brick and other useful articles. There is another +place affording a shelter for vessels from eighty to a hundred tons, but it +is dry at low tide. The island is covered with firs, birches, maples, and +oaks. It is by nature very well situated, except in one place, where for +about forty paces it is lower than elsewhere: this, however, is easily +fortified, the banks of the main land being distant on both sides some nine +hundred to a thousand paces. Vessels could pass up the river only at the +mercy of the cannon on this island, and we deemed the location the most +advantageous, not only on account of its situation and good foil, but also +on account of the intercourse which we proposed with the savages of these +coasts and of the interior, as we should be in the midst of them. We hoped +to pacify them in the course of time, and put an end to the wars which they +carry on with one another, so as to derive service from them in future, and +convert them to the Christian faith. This place was named by Sieur de Monts +the Island of St. Croix. [86] Farther on, there is a great bay, in which +are two islands, one high and the other flat; also three rivers, two of +moderate size, one extending towards the east, the other towards the north, +and the third of large size, towards the west. The latter is that of the +Etechemins, of which we spoke before. Two leagues up this there is a +waterfall, around which the savages carry their canoes some five hundred +paces by land, and then re-enter the river. Passing afterwards from the +river a short distance overland, one reaches the rivers Norumbegue and +St. John. But the falls are impassable for vessels, as there are only rocks +and but four or five feet of water.[87] In May and June, so great a number +of herring and bass are caught there that vessels could be loaded with +them. The soil is of the finest sort, and there are fifteen or twenty acres +of cleared land, where Sieur de Monts had some wheat sown, which flourished +finely. The savages come here sometimes five or six weeks during the +fishing Season. All the rest of the country consists of very dense forests. +If the land were cleared up, grain would flourish excellently. This place +is in latitude 45° 20',[88] and 17° 32' of the deflection of the magnetic +needle. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S DESCRIPTION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +ISLE DE SAINTE CROIX. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. A plan of our habitation. +_B_. Gardens. +_C_. Little islet serving as a platform for cannon. [Note: This refers to + the southern end of the island, which was probably separated at high + tide, where a cannon may be seen in position.] +_D_. Platform where cannon were placed. +_E_. The Cemetery. +_F_. The Chapel. +_G_. Rocky shoals about the Island Sainte Croix. +_H_. A little islet. [Note: Little De Monts's Island, Sometimes called + Little Dochet's Island.] +_I_. Place where Sieur de Monts had a water-mill commenced. +_L_. Place where we made our coal. +_M_. Gardens on the western shore. +_N_. Other gardens on the eastern shore. +_O_. Very large and high mountain on the main land. [Note: This "mountain" + is now called Chamcook Hill. Its height is 627 feet. At the northern + end of the island on the right there is an extensive sandy shoal, dry + at low tide, of a triangular shape as formerly, and has apparently + changed very little since the days of Champlain.] +_P_. River of the Etechemins flowing about the Island of St. Croix. + + * * * * * + +ENDNOTES: + +53. For May read June. It could not have been in May, since Champlain Set + out from Port Mouton on his exploring expedition on the 19th of May, + which must have been a month previous to this. + +54. What is now called the Petit Passage, the narrow strait between Long + Island and Digby Neck. + +55. Gulliver's Hole, about two leagues south-west of Digby Strait. + +56. Champlain here names the whole harbor or basin Port Royal, and not the + place of habitation afterward so called. The first settlement was on + the north side of the bay in the present hamlet of Lower Granville, not + as often alleged at Annapolis.--_Vide_ Champlain's engraving or map of + Port Royal. + +57. "Équille." A name, on the coasts between Caen and Havre, of the fish + called lançon at Granville and St. Malo, a kind of malacopterygious + fish living on sandy shores and hiding in the sand at low tide.-- + _Littré_. A species of sand eel. This stream is now known as the + Annapolis River. Lescarbot calls it Rivière du Dauphin. + +58. This island is situated at the point where the Annapolis River flows + into the bay, or about nine miles from Digby, straight. Champlain on + his map gives it no name, but Lescarbot calls it Biencourville. It is + now called Goat Island. + +59. Lescarbot calls it Claudiane. It is now known as Bear Island. It was + Sometimes called Ile d'Hébert, and likewise Imbert Island. Laverdière + suggests that the present name is derived from the French pronunciation + of the last syllable of Imbert. + +60. At present known as Bear River; Lescarbot has it Hebert, and + Charlevoix, Imbert. + +61. On modern maps called Moose River, and sometimes Deep Brook. It is a + few miles east of Bear River. + +62. The latitude is here overstated: it should be 44° 39' 30". + +63. On the preceding year, M. Prevert of St. Malo had made a glowing report + ostensively based on his own observations and information which he had + obtained from the Indians, in regard to certain mines alleged to exist + on the coast directly South of Northumberland Strait, and about the + head of the Bay of Fundy. It was this report of Prevert that induced + the present search. + +64. Along the Bay of Fundy nearly parallel to the basin of Port Royal would + better express the author's meaning. + +65. Cape Chignecto, the point where the Bay of Fundy is bifurcated; the + northern arm forming Chignecto Bay, and the southern, the Bay of Mines + or Minas Basin. + +66. Isle Haute, or high island.--_Vide Charlevoix's Map_. On Some maps this + name has been strangely perverted into Isle Holt, Isle Har, &c. Its + height is 320 feet. + +67. This was Advocate's Harbor. Its distance from Cape Chignecto is greater + than that stated in the text. Further on, Champlain calls it two + leagues, which is nearly correct. Its latitude is about 45° 20'. By + comparing the Admiralty charts and Champlain's map of this harbor, it + will be seen that important changes have taken place since 1604. The + tongue of land extending in a south-easterly direction, covered with + trees and shrubbery, which Champlain calls a sand-bank, has entirely + disappeared. The ordinary tides rise here from thirty-three to + thirty-nine feet, and on a sandy shore could hardly fail to produce + important changes. + +68. According to the Abbé Laverdière, the lower part of the Gulf was + sometimes called the Bay of St. Lawrence. + +69. They had just crossed the Bay of Mines. From the place where they + crossed it to its head it is not far from fifteen leagues, and it is + about the same distance to Port Royal, from which he may here estimate + the distance inland. + +70. Read June.--_Vide antea_, note 53. + +71. Chignecto Bay. Charlevoix has Chignitou _ou Beau Bassin_. On De Laet's + Map of 1633, on Jacob von Meur's of 1673, and Homenn's of 1729, we have + B. de Gennes. The Cape of Two Bays was Cape Chignecto. + +72. The rivers are the Cumberland Basin with its tributaries coming from + the east, and the Petitcoudiac (_petit_ and _coude_, little elbow, from + the angle formed by the river at Moncton, called the Bend), which flows + into Shepody Bay coming from the north or the direction of Gaspé. + Champlain mentions all these particulars, probably as answering to the + description given to them by M. Prevert of the place where copper mines + could be found. + +73. Quaco River, at the mouth of which the water is shallow: the low cape + extending out into the sea is that on which Quaco Light now stands, + which reaches out quarter of a mile, and is comparatively low. The + shore from Goose River, near where they made the coast, is very high, + measuring at different points 783, 735, 650, 400, 300, 500, and 380 + feet, while the "low cape" is only 250 feet, and near it on the west is + an elevation of 400 feet. It would be properly represented as "rather a + low cape" in contradistinction to the neighboring coast. Iron and + manganese are found here, and the latter has been mined to some extent, + but is now discontinued, as the expense is too great for the present + times. + +74. This mountain is an elevation, eight or ten miles inland from Quaco, + which may be seen by vessels coasting along from St. Martin's Head to + St. John: it is indicated on the charts as Mt. Theobald, and bears a + striking resemblance, as Champlain suggests, to the _chapeau de + Cardinal_. + +75. McCoy's Head, four leagues west of Quaco: the "cove" may be that on the + east into which Gardner's Creek flows, or that on the west at the mouth + of Emmerson's Creek. + +76. The Bay of St. John, which is four leagues south-west of McCoy's + Head. The islands mentioned are Partridge Island at the mouth of the + harbor, and two smaller ones farther west, one Meogenes, and the other + Shag rock or some unimportant islet in its vicinity. The rock mentioned + by Champlain is that on which Spit Beacon Light now stands. + +77. The festival of St. John the Baptist occurs on the 24th of June; and, + arriving on that day, they gave the name of St. John to the river, + which has been appropriately given also to the city at its mouth, now + the metropolis of the province of New Brunswick. + +78. Champlain was under a missapprehension about passing the fall at the + mouth of the St. John at high tide. It can in fact only be passed at + about half tide. The waters of the river at low tide are about twelve + feet higher than the waters of the sea. At high tide, the waters of the + sea are about five feet higher than the waters of the river. + Consequently, at low tide there is a fall outward, and at high tide + there is a fall inward, at neither of which times can the fall be + passed. The only time for passing the fall is when the waters of the + sea are on a level with the waters of the river. This occurs twice + every tide, at the level point at the flood and likewise at the ebb. + The period for passing lasts about fifteen or twenty minutes, and of + course occurs four times a day. Vessels assemble in considerable + numbers above and below to embrace the opportunity of passing at the + favoring moment. There are periods, however, when the river is swollen + by rains and melting snow, at which the tides do not rise as high as + the river, and consequently there is a constant fall outward, and + vessels cannot pass until the high water subsides. + +79. They ascended the river only a short distance into the large bay just + above the falls, near which are the three islands mentioned in the + text. + +80. The distance from the mouth of the river St. John to Tadoussac in a + direct line is about sixty-five leagues. But by the winding course of + the St. John it would be very much greater. + +81. Champlain's latitude is inexact. St. John's Harbor is 45° 16'. + +82. _Margos_, magpies. The four islands which Champlain named the Magpies + are now called the Wolves, and are near the mouth of Passamaquoddy + Bay. Charlevoix has _Oiseaux_, the Birds. + +83. Manan. Known as the Grand Manan in contradistinction to the Petit + Manan, a small island still further west. It is about fourteen or + fifteen miles long, and about six in its greatest width. On the south + and eastern side are Long Island, Great Duck, Ross, Cheyne, and White + Head Islands, among which good harborage may be found. The name, as + appears in the text, is of Indian origin. It is Sometimes Spelled + Menarse, but that in the text prevails. + +84. The St. Croix River, sometimes called the Scoudic. + +85. Passsmaquoddy Bay. On Gastaldo's map of 1550 called Angoulesme. On + Rouge's "Atlas Ameriquain," 1778, it is written Passamacadie. + +86. The Holy Cross, _Saincte Croix_, This name was suggested by the + circumstance that, a few miles above the island, two streams flow into + the main channel of the river at the same place, one from the east and + the other from the west, while a bay makes up between them, presenting + the appearance of a cross. + + "Et d'autant qu'à deux lieues au dessus il y a des ruisseaux qui + viennent comme en croix de décharger dans ce large bras de mer, cette + île de la retraite des François fut appelée SAINCTE CROIX."--_His. + Nouvelle France_ par Lescarbot, Paris. 1612, Qvat Liv. pp. 461, 462. + + It is now called De Monts's Island. It has been called Dochet's Island + and Neutral Island, but there is great appropriateness in calling it + after its first occupant and proprietor, and in honor of him it has + been so named with suitable ceremonies.--_Vide Godfrey's Centennial + Discourse_, Bangor, 1870, p. 20. The United States maintain a light + upon the island, which is seventy-one feet above the level of the sea, + and is visible twelve nautical miles. The island itself is moderately + high, and in the widest part is one hundred and eighty paces or about + five hundred and forty feet. The area is probably not more than six or + seven acres, although it has been estimated at twice that. It may have + been diminished in some slight degree since the time of Champlain by + the action of the waves, but probably very little. On the southern + extremity of the island where De Monts placed his cannon, about + twenty-five years ago a workman in excavating threw out five small + cannon-balls, one of which was obtained by Peter E. Vose, Esq., of + Dennysville, Me., who then resided near the island, and was conversant + with all the circumstances of the discovery. They were about a foot and + a half below the surface, and the workman was excavating for another + purpose, and knew nothing of the history of the island. At our + solicitation, the ball belonging to Mr. Vose has recently been + presented to the New England Historic Genealogical Society, of which he + is a member. It is iron, perfectly round, two and a quarter inches in + diameter, and weighs 22 oz. avoirdupois. There can be no reasonable + doubt that these balls are relics of the little French colony of 1604, + and probably the only memorial of the kind now in existence. + +87. The description in the text of the environs of the Island of St. Croix + is entirely accurate. Some distance above, and in view from the island, + is the fork, or Divide, as it is called. Here is a meeting of the + waters of Warwig Creek from the east, Oak Bay from the north, and the + river of the Etechemins, now called the St. Croix, from the west. These + are the three rivers mentioned by Champlain, Oak Bay being considered + as one of them, in which may be seen the two islands mentioned in the + text, one high and the other low. A little above Calais is the + waterfall, around which the Indians carried their bark canoes, when on + their journey up the river through the Scoudic lakes, from which by + land they reached the river St. John on the east, or, on the west, + passing through the Mettawamkeag, they reached the Norumbegue, or + Penobscot River. + +88. The latitude of the Island of St. Croix is 45° 7' 43". + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +SIEUR DE MONTS, FINDING NO OTHER PLACE BETTER ADAPTED FOR A PERMANENT +SETTLEMENT THAN THE ISLAND OF ST. CROIX, FORTIFIES IT AND BUILDS +DWELLINGS.--RETURN OF THE VESSELS TO FRANCE, AND OF RALLEAU, SECRETARY OF +SIEUR DE MONTS, FOR THE SAKE OF ARRANGING SOME BUSINESS AFFAIRS. + + +Not finding any more suitable place than this island, we commenced making a +barricade on a little islet a short distance from the main island, which +served as a station for placing our cannon. All worked so energetically +that in a little while it was put in a state of defence, although the +mosquitoes (which are little flies) annoyed us excessively in our work. +For there were several of our men whose faces were so swollen by their +bites that they could scarcely see. The barricade being finished, Sieur de +Monts sent his barque to notify the rest of our party, who were with our +vessel in the bay of St. Mary, to come to St. Croix. This was promptly +done, and while awaiting them we spent our time very pleasantly. + +Some days after, our vessels having arrived and anchored, all disembarked. +Then, without losing time, Sieur de Monts proceeded to employ the workmen +in building houses for our abode, and allowed me to determine the +arrangement of our settlement. After Sieur de Monts had determined the +place for the storehouse, which is nine fathoms long, three wide, and +twelve feet high, he adopted the plan for his own house, which he had +promptly built by good workmen, and then assigned to each one his location. +Straightway, the men began to gather together by fives and sixes, each +according to his desire. Then all set to work to clear up the island, to go +to the woods, to make the frame work, to carry earth and other things +necessary for the buildings. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S DESCRIPTION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +HABITATION DE L'ISLE STE. CROIX. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. Dwelling of Sieur de Monts. +_B_. Public building where we spent our time when it rained. +_C_. The storehouse. +_D_. Dwelling of the guard. +_E_. The blacksmith shop. +_F_. Dwelling of the carpenters. +_G_. The well. +_H_. The oven where the bread was made. +_I_. Kitchen. +_L_. Gardens. +_M_. Other gardens. +_N_. Place in the centre where a tree stands. +_O_. Palisade. +_P_. Dwellings of the Sieurs d'Orville, Champlain, and Champdoré. +_Q_. Dwelling of Sieur Boulay, and other artisans. +_R_. Dwelling where the Sieurs de Genestou, Sourin, and other artisans + lived. +_T_. Dwelling of the Sieurs de Beaumont, la Motte Bourioli, and Fougeray. +_V_. Dwelling of our curate. +_X_. Other gardens. +_Y_. The river surrounding the island. + + * * * * * + +While we were building our houses, Sieur de Monts despatched Captain +Fouques in the vessel of Rossignol, [89] to find Pont Gravé at Canseau, in +order to obtain for our settlement what supplies remained. + +Some time after he had set out, there arrived a small barque of eight tons, +in which was Du Glas of Honfleur, pilot of Pont Grave's vessel, bringing +the Basque ship-masters, who had been captured by the above Pont Gravé [90] +while engaged in the fur-trade, as we have stated. Sieur de Monts received +them civilly, and sent them back by the above Du Glas to Pont Gravé, with +orders for him to take the vessels he had captured to Rochelle, in order +that justice might be done. Meanwhile, work on the houses went on +vigorously and without cessation; the carpenters engaged on the storehouse +and dwelling of Sieur de Monts, and the others each on his own house, as I +was on mine, which I built with the assistance of some servants belonging +to Sieur d'Orville and myself. It was forthwith completed, and Sieur de +Monts lodged in it until his own was finished. An oven was also made, and a +handmill for grinding our wheat, the working of which involved much trouble +and labor to the most of us, since it was a toilsome operation. Some +gardens were afterwards laid out, on the main land as well as on the +island. Here many kinds of seeds were planted, which flourished very well +on the main land, but not on the island, since there was only sand here, +and the whole were burned up when the sun shone, although special pains +were taken to water them. + +Some days after, Sieur de Monts determined to ascertain where the mine of +pure copper was which we had searched for so much. With this object in +view, he despatched me together with a savage named Messamoüet, who +asserted that he knew the place well. I set out in a small barque of five +or six tons, with nine sailors. Some eight leagues from the island, towards +the river St. John, we found a mine of copper which was not pure, yet good +according to the report of the miner, who said that it would yield eighteen +per cent. Farther on we found others inferior to this. When we reached the +place where we supposed that was which we were hunting for, the savage +could not find it, so that it was necessary to come back, leaving the +search for another time. + +Upon my return from this trip. Sieur de Monts resolved to send his vessels +back to France, and also Sieur de Poutrincourt, who had come only for his +pleasure, and to explore countries and places suitable for a colony, which +he desired to found; for which reason he asked Sieur de Monts for Port +Royal, which he gave him in accordance with the power and directions he had +received from the king. [91] He sent back also Ralleau, his secretary, to +arrange some matters concerning the voyage. They set out from the Island of +St. Croix the last day of August, 1604. + +ENDNOTES: + +89. This was the vessel taken from Captain Rossignol and confiscated.-- + _Vide antea_, pp. 10, 12; also note 26. + +90. Champlain and others often write only Pont for Pont Gravé. Lescarbot + says Gravé was his surname.--_Vide Histoire de la Nou. Fran_., Paris, + 1612, Qvat. Liv. p. 501. To prevent any confusion, we write it Pont + Gravé in all cases. + +91. De Monts's charter provided for the distribution of lands to colonists. + This gift to De Poutrincourt was confirmed afterwards by the king. We + may here remark that there is the usual discrepancy in the orthography + of this name. Lescarbot, De Laet, and Charlevoix write Poutrincourt. In + his Latin epitaph, _vide Murdoch's Nova Scotia_, Vol. I. p. 59, it is + Potrincurtius, while Champlain has Poitrincourt. In Poutrincourt's + letter to the Roman Pontiff, Paul V., written in Latin, he says, _Ego + Johannes de Biencour, vulgo De Povtrincovr a vitae religionis amator et + attestor perpetuus_, etc. This must be conclusive for Poutrincourt as + the proper orthography.--_Vide His. Nov. Fra._, par Lescarbot, Paris, + 1612, p. 612. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +OF THE COAST, INHABITANTS, AND RIVER OF NORUMBEGUE, AND OF ALL THAT +OCCURRED DURING THE EXPLORATION OF THE LATTER. + + +After the departure of the vessels, Sieur de Monts, without losing time, +decided to send persons to make discoveries along the coast of Norumbegue; +and he intrusted me with this work, which I found very agreeable. + +In order to execute this commission, I set out from St. Croix on the 2d of +September with a patache of seventeen or eighteen tons, twelve sailors, and +two savages, to serve us as guides to the places with which they were +acquainted. The same day we found the vessels where Sieur de Poutrincourt +was, which were anchored at the mouth of the river St. Croix in consequence +of bad weather, which place we could not leave before the 5th of the month. +Having gone two or three leagues seaward, so dense a fog arose that we at +once lost sight of their vessels. Continuing our course along the coast, we +made the same day some twenty-five leagues, and passed by a large number of +islands, banks, reefs, and rocks, which in places extend more than four +leagues out to Sea. We called the islands the Ranges, most of which are +covered with pines, firs, and other trees of an inferior sort. Among these +islands are many fine harbors, but undesirable for a permanent settlement. +The same day we passed also near to an island about four or five leagues +long, in the neighborhood of which we just escaped being lost on a little +rock on a level with the water, which made an opening in our barque near +the keel. From this island to the main land on the north, the distance is +less than a hundred paces. It is very high, and notched in places, so that +there is the appearance to one at sea, as of seven or eight mountains +extending along near each other. The summit of the most of them is +destitute of trees, as there are only rocks on them. The woods consist of +pines, firs, and birches only. I named it Isle des Monts Déserts.[92] The +latitude is 44° 30'. + +The next day, the 6th of the month, we sailed two leagues, and perceived a +smoke in a cove at the foot of the mountains above mentioned. We saw two +canoes rowed by savages, which came within musket range to observe us. I +sent our two savages in a boat to assure them of our friendship. Their fear +of us made them turn back. On the morning of the next day, they came +alongside of our barque and talked with our savages. I ordered some +biscuit, tobacco, and other trifles to be given them. These savages had +come beaver-hunting and to catch fish, some of which they gave us. Having +made an alliance with them, they guided us to their river of Pentegoüet, +[93] so called by them, where they told us was their captain, named +Bessabez, chief of this river. I think this river is that which several +pilots and historians call Norumbegue, [94] and which most have described +as large and extensive, with very many islands, its mouth being in latitude +43°, 43° 30', according to others in 44°, more or less. With regard to the +deflection, I have neither read, nor heard any one say any thing. It is +related also that there is a large, thickly settled town of savages, who +are adroit and skillful, and who have cotton yarn. I am confident that most +of those who mention it have not seen it, and speak of it because they have +heard persons say so, who knew no more about it than they themselves. I am +ready to believe that some may have seen the mouth of it, because there are +in reality many islands, and it is, as they say, in latitude 44° at its +entrance. But that any one has ever entered it there is no evidence, for +then they would have described it in another manner, in order to relieve +the minds of many of this doubt. + +I will accordingly relate truly what I explored and saw, from the beginning +as far as I went. + +In the first place, there are at its entrance several islands distant ten +or twelve leagues from the main land, which are in latitude 44°, and 18° +40' of the deflection of the magnetic needle. The Isle des Monts Déserts +forms one of the extremities of the mouth, on the east; the other is low +land, called by the savages Bedabedec, [95] to the west of the former, the +two being distant from each other nine or ten leagues. Almost midway +between these, out in the ocean, there is another island very high and +conspicuous, which on this account I have named Isle Haute. [96] All around +there is a vast number of varying extent and breadth, but the largest is +that of the Monts Déserts. Fishing as also hunting are very good here; the +fish are of various kinds. Some two or three leagues from the point of +Bedabedec, as you coast northward along the main land which extends up this +river, there are very high elevations of land, which in fair weather are +seen twelve or fifteen leagues out at Sea. [97] Passing to the South of the +Isle Haute, and coasting along the same for a quarter of a league, where +there are some reefs out of water, and heading to the west until you open +all the mountains northward of this island, you can be sure that, by +keeping in sight the eight or nine peaks of the Monts Déserts and +Bedabedec, you will cross the river Norumbegue; and in order to enter it +you must keep to the north, that is, towards the highest mountains of +Bedabedec, where you will see no islands before you, and can enter, sure of +having water enough, although you see a great many breakers, islands, and +rocks to the east and west of you. For greater security, one should keep +the sounding lead in hand. And my observations lead me to conclude that one +cannot enter this river in any other place except in small vessels or +shallops. For, as I stated above, there are numerous islands, rocks, +shoals, banks, and breakers on all sides, so that it is marvellous to +behold. + +Now to resume our course: as one enters the river, there are beautiful +islands, which are very pleasant and contain fine meadows. We proceeded to +a place to which the savages guided us, where the river is not more than an +eighth of a league broad, and at a distance of some two hundred paces from +the western shore there is a rock on a level with the water, of a dangerous +character.[98] From here to the Isle Haute, it is fifteen leagues. From +this narrow place, where there is the least breadth that we had found, +after sailing some seven or eight leagues, we came to a little river near +which it was necessary to anchor, as we saw before us a great many rocks +which are uncovered at low tide, and since also, if we had desired to sail +farther, we could have gone scarcely half a league, in consequence of a +fall of water there coming down a slope of seven or eight feet, which I saw +as I went there in a canoe with our savages; and we found only water enough +for a canoe. But excepting the fall, which is some two hundred paces broad, +the river is beautiful, and unobstructed up to the place where we had +anchored. I landed to view the country, and, going on a-hunting excursion, +found it very pleasant so far as I went. The oaks here appear as if they +were planted for ornament. I saw only a few firs, but numerous pines on one +side of the river; on the other only oaks, and some copse wood which +extends far into the interior.[99] And I will state that from the entrance +to where we went, about twenty-five leagues, we saw no town, nor village, +nor the appearance of there having been one, but one or two cabins of the +savages without inhabitants. These were made in the same way as those of +the Souriquois, being covered with the bark of trees. So far as we could +judge, the savages on this river are few in number, and are called +Etechemins. Moreover, they only come to the islands, and that only during +some months in summer for fish and game, of which there is a great +quantity. They are a people who have no fixed abode, so far as I could +observe and learn from them. For they spend the winter now in one place and +now in another, according as they find the best hunting, by which they live +when urged by their daily needs, without laying up any thing for times of +scarcity, which are sometimes severe. + +Now this river must of necessity be the Norumbegue; for, having coasted +along past it as far as the 41° of latitude, we have found no other on the +parallel above mentioned, except that of the Quinibequy, which is almost in +the same latitude, but not of great extent. Moreover, there cannot be in +any other place a river extending far into the interior of the country, +since the great river St. Lawrence washes the coast of La Cadie and +Norumbegue, and the distance from one to the other by land is not more than +forty-five leagues, or sixty at the widest point, as can be seen on my +geographical map. + +Now I will drop this discussion to return to the savages who had conducted +me to the falls of the river Norumbegue, who went to notify Bessabez, their +chief, and other savages, who in turn proceeded to another little river to +inform their own, named Cabahis, and give him notice of our arrival. + +The 16th of the month there came to us some thirty savages on assurances +given them by those who had served us as guides. There came also to us the +same day the above named Bessabez with six canoes. As soon as the savages +who were on land saw him coming, they all began to sing, dance, and jump, +until he had landed. Afterwards, they all seated themselves in a circle on +the ground, as is their custom, when they wish to celebrate a festivity, or +an harangue is to be made. Cabahis, the other chief, arrived also a little +later with twenty or thirty of his companions, who withdrew one side and +enjoyed greatly seeing us, as it was the first time they had seen +Christians. A little while after, I went on shore with two of my companions +and two of our savages who served as interpreters. I directed the men in +our barque to approach near the savages, and hold their arms in readiness +to do their duty in case they noticed any movement of these people against +us. Bessabez, seeing us on land, bade us sit down, and began to smoke with +his companions, as they usually do before an address. They presented us +with venison and game. + +I directed our interpreter to say to our savages that they should cause +Bessabez, Cabahis, and their companions to understand that Sieur de Monts +had sent me to them to see them, and also their country, and that he +desired to preserve friendship with them and to reconcile them with their +enemies, the Souriquois and Canadians, and moreover that he desired to +inhabit their country and show them how to cultivate it, in order that they +might not continue to lead so miserable a life as they were doing, and some +other words on the same subject. This our savages interpreted to them, at +which they signified their great satisfaction, saying that no greater good +could come to them than to have our friendship, and that they desired to +live in peace with their enemies, and that we should dwell in their land, +in order that they might in future more than ever before engage in hunting +beavers, and give us a part of them in return for our providing them with +things which they wanted. After he had finished his discourse, I presented +them with hatchets, paternosters, caps, knives, and other little +knick-knacks, when we separated from each other. All the rest of this day +and the following night, until break of day, they did nothing but dance, +sing, and make merry, after which we traded for a certain number of +beavers. Then each party returned, Bessabez with his companions on the one +side, and we on the other, highly pleased at having made the acquaintance +of this people. + +The 17th of the month I took the altitude, [100] and found the latitude 45° +25'. This done, we set out for another river called Quinibequy, distant +from this place thirty-five leagues, and nearly twenty from Bedabedec. This +nation of savages of Quinibequy are called Etechemins, as well as those of +Norumbegue. + +The 18th of the month we passed near a small river where Cabahis was, who +came with us in our barque some twelve leagues; and having asked him whence +came the river Norumbegue, he told me that it passes the fall which I +mentioned above, and that one journeying some distance on it enters a lake +by way of which they come to the river of St. Croix, by going some distance +over land, and then entering the river of the Etechemins. Moreover, another +river enters the lake, along which they proceed some days, and afterwards +enter another lake and pass through the midst of it. Reaching the end of +it, they make again a land journey of some distance, and then enter another +little river, which has its mouth a league from Quebec, which is on the +great river St. Lawrence. [101] All these people of Norumbegue are very +swarthy, dressed in beaver-skins and other furs, like the Canadian and +Souriquois savages, and they have the same mode of life. + +The 20th of the month we sailed along the western coast, and passed the +mountains of Bedabedec, [102] when we anchored. The same day we explored +the entrance to the river, where large vessels can approach; but there are +inside some reefs, to avoid which one must advance with sounding lead in +hand. Our savages left us, as they did not wish to go to Quinibequy, for +the savages of that place are great enemies to them. We sailed some eight +leagues along the western coast to an island [103] ten leagues distant from +Quinibequy, where we were obliged to put in on account of bad weather and +contrary wind. At one point in our course, we passed a large number of +islands and breakers extending some leagues out to sea, and very dangerous. +And in view of the bad weather, which was so unfavorable to us, we did not +sail more than three or four leagues farther. All these islands and coasts +are covered with extensive woods, of the same sort as that which I have +reported above as existing on the other coasts. And in consideration of the +small quantity of provisions which we had, we resolved to return to our +settlement and wait until the following year, when we hoped to return and +explore more extensively. We accordingly set out on our return on the 23d +of September, and arrived at our settlement on the 2d of October following. + +The above is an exact statement of all that I have observed respecting not +only the coasts and people, but also the river of Norumbegue; and there are +none of the marvels there which some persons have described. I am of +opinion that this region is as disagreeable in winter as that of our +settlement, in which we were greatly deceived. [104] + +ENDNOTES: + +92. The natives called this island Pemetiq. _Isle que les Saunages + appellent Pemetiq.--Vide Relation de la Nouvelle-France_, par F. Biard. + 1616. Relations des Jésuites, Quebec ed. 1858. p. 44. When the attempt + was made in 1613 to plant a colony there by the Marchioness de + Guercheville, the settlement was named St. Sauveur. This island was + also by the English called Mount Mansell. But the name given to it by + Champlain has prevailed, and still adheres to it. + + The description here given of the barrenness of the island clearly + suggests the origin of the name. Desert should therefore be pronounced + with the accent on the first syllable. The latitude of the most + northern limit of the island is 44° 24'. + +93. Penobscot. The name of this river has been variously written Pentagoet, + Pentagwet, Pemptegoet, Pentagovett, Penobskeag, Penaubsket, and in + various other ways. The English began early to write it Penobscot. It + is a word of Indian origin, and different meanings have been assigned + to it by those who have undertaken to interpret the language from which + it is derived. + +94. The Abbé Laverdière is of the opinion that the river Norumbegue was + identical with the Bay of Fundy. His only authority is Jean Alfonse, + the chief pilot of Roberval in 1541-42. Alfonse says; "Beyond the cape + of Noroveregue descends the river of the said Noroveregue, which is + about twenty-five leagues from the cape. The said river is more than + forty leagues broad at its mouth, and extends this width inward well + thirty or forty leagues, and is all full of islands which enter ten or + twelve leagues into the sea, and it is very dangerous with rocks and + reefs." If the cape of Norumbegue is the present Cape Sable, as it is + supposed to be, by coasting along the shores of Nova Scotia from that + cape in a north-westerly direction a little more than twenty leagues, + we shall reach St. Mary's Bay, which may be regarded as the beginning + of the Bay of Fundy, and from that point in a straight line to the + mouth of the Penobscot the distance is more than forty leagues, which + was the breadth of the Norumbegue at its mouth, according to the + statement of Alfonse. The Abbé Laverdière is not quite correct in + saying that the river Norumbegue is the same as the Bay of Fundy. It + includes, according to Alfonse, who is not altogether consistent with + himself, not only the Bay of Fundy, but likewise the Penobscot River + and the bay of the same name, with its numerous islands. Alfonse left a + drawing or map of this region in his Cosmography, which Laverdière had + not probably seen, on which the Bay of Fundy and the Penobscot are + correctly laid down, and the latter is designated the "_Rivière de + Norvebergue_." It is therefore obvious, if this map can be relied upon, + that the river of Norumbegue was identical, not with the Bay of Fundy, + but with the Penobscot, in the opinion of Alfonse, in common with the + "plusieurs pilottes et historiens" referred to by Champlain.--_Vide + copy of the Chart from the MS. Cosmography of Juan Alfonse_ in + Bibliothèque Nationale, Paris, in Mr. Murphy's Voyage of Verrazzano, + New York, 1875. + +95. An indefinite region about Rockland and Camden, on the western bank of + the Penobscot near its mouth, appears to have been the domain of the + Indian chief, Bessabez, and was denominated Bedabedec. The Camden Hills + were called the mountains of Bedabedec, and Owl's Head was called + Bedabedec Point. + +96. Isle Haute, _high island_, which name it still retains. Champlain wrote + it on his map, 1632, "Isle Haulte." It has been anglicized by some into + Isle Holt. It is nearly six miles long, and has an average width of + over two miles, and is the highest land in its vicinity, reaching at + its highest point four hundred feet above the level of the sea. + +97. Camden Hills or Mountains. They are five or six in number, from 900 to + 1,500 feet high, and maybe seen, it is said, twenty leagues at sea. The + more prominent are Mt. Batty, Mt. Pleasant, and Mt. Hosmer, or Ragged + Mountain. They are Sometimes called the Megunticook Range. Colonel + Benjamin Church denominates them "Mathebestuck's Hills,"--_Vide + Church's History of King Philip's War_, Newport, 1772, p. 143. Captain + John Smith calls them the mountains of Penobscot, "against whose feet + doth beat the sea." which, he adds, "you may well see sixteen or + eighteen leagues from their situation." + +98. This narrow place in the river is just above Castine, where Cape + Jellison stretches out towards the east, at the head of the bay, and at + the mouth of the river. At the extremity of the cape is Fort Point, so + called from Fort Pownall, erected there in 1759, a step rocky elevation + of about eighty feet in height. Before the erection of the fort by + Governor Pownall, it was called Wafaumkeag Point.--_Vide Pownall's + Journal_, Col. Me. His. Soc., Vol. V. p. 385. The "rock" alluded to by + Champlain is Fort Point Ledge, bare at half tide, south-east by east + from the Point, and distant over half a mile. Champlain's distances + here are somewhat overestimated. + +99. The terminus of this exploration of the Penobscot was near the present + site of the city of Bangor. The small river near the mouth of which + they anchored was the Kenduskeag. The falls which Champlain visited + with the Indians in a canoe are those a short distance above the + city. The sentence, a few lines back, beginning "But excepting this + fall" is complicated, and not quite logical, but the author evidently + means to describe the river from its mouth to the place of their + anchorage at Bangor. + +100. The interview with the Indians on the 16th, and the taking of the + altitude on the 17th, must have occurred before the party left their + anchorage at Bangor with the purpose, but which they did not + accomplish that year, of visiting the Kennebec. This may be inferred + from Champlain's statement that the Kennebec was thirty-five leagues + distant from the place where they then were, and nearly twenty leagues + distant from Bedabedec. Consequently, they were fifteen leagues above + Bedabedec, which was situated near the mouth of the river. The + latitude, which they obtained from their observations, was far from + correct: it should be 44° 46'. + +101. The Indian chief Cabahis here points out two trails, the one leading + to the French habitation just established on the Island of St. Croix, + the other to Quebec; by the former, passing up the Penobscot from the + present site of Bangor, entering the Matawamkeag, keeping to the east + in their light bark canoes to Lake Boscanhegan, and from there passing + by land to the stream then known as the river of the Etechemins, now + called the Scoudic or St. Croix. The expression "by which they come to + the river of St. Croix" is explanatory: it has no reference to the + name of the river, but means simply that the trail leads to the river + in which was the island of St. Croix. This river had not then been + named St. Croix, but had been called by them the river of the + Etechemins.--_Vide antea_, p. 31. + + The other trail led up the north branch of the Penobscot, passing + through Lake Pemadumcook, and then on through Lake Chefuncook, finally + reaching the source of this stream which is near that of the + Chaudière, which latter flows into the St. Lawrence, near Quebec. It + would seem from the text that Champlain supposed that the Penobscot + flowed from a lake into which streams flowed from both the objective + points, viz. St. Croix and Quebec: but this was a mistake not at all + unnatural, as he had never been over the ground, and obtained his + information from the Indians, whose language he imperfectly + understood. + +102. Bedabedec is an Indian word, signifying cape of the waters, and was + plainly the point known as Owl's Head. It gave name to the Camden + Mountains also. _Vide antea_, note 95. + +103. Mosquito and Metinic Islands are each about ten leagues east of the + Kennebec. As the party went but four leagues further, the voyage must + have terminated in Muscongus Bay. + +104. An idle story had been circulated, and even found a place on the pages + of sober history, that on the Penobscot, or Norumbegue, as it was then + called, there existed a fair town, a populous city, with the + accessories of luxury and wealth. Champlain here takes pains to show, + in the fullest manner, that this story was a baseless dream of fancy, + and utterly without foundation. Of it Lescarbot naïvely says, "If this + beautiful town hath ever existed in nature, I would fain know who hath + pulled it down, for there are now only a few scattered wigwams made of + poles covered with the bark of trees and the skins of wild beasts." + There is no evidence, and no probability, that this river had been + navigated by Europeans anterior to this exploration of Champlain. The + existence of the bay and the river had been noted long before. They + are indicated on the map of Ribero in 1529. Rio de Gamas and Rio + Grande appear on early maps as names of this river, but are soon + displaced for Norumbega, a name which was sometimes extended to a wide + range of territory on both sides of the Penobscot. On the Mappe-Monde + of 1543-47, issued by the late M. Jomard, it is denominated + Auorobagra, evidently intended for Norumbega. Thevet, who visited it, + or sailed along its mouth in 1556, speaks of it as Norumbegue. It is + alleged that the aborigines called it Agguncia. According to Jean + Alfonse, it was discovered by the Portuguese and Spaniards.--_Vide + His. de la N. France_, par M. Lescarbot, Paris, 1612, Qvat. Liv. + p. 495. The orthography of this name is various among early writers, + but Norumbegue is adopted by the most approved modern authors. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +OF THE MAL DE LA TERRE, A VERY DESPERATE MALADY.--HOW THE SAVAGES, MEN AND +WOMEN, SPEND THEIR TIME IN WINTER.--AND ALL THAT OCCURRED AT THE SETTLEMENT +WHILE WE WERE PASSING THE WINTER. + +When we arrived at the Island of St. Croix, each one had finished his place +of abode. Winter came upon us sooner than we expected, and prevented us +from doing many things which we had proposed. Nevertheless, Sieur de Monts +did not fail to have some gardens made on the island. Many began to clear +up the ground, each his own. I also did so with mine, which was very large, +where I planted a quantity of foods, as also did the others who had any, +and they came up very well. But since the island was all sandy, every thing +dried up almost as soon as the Sun shone upon it, and we had no water for +irrigation except from the rain, which was infrequent. + +Sieur de Monts caused also clearings to be made on the main land for making +gardens, and at the falls three leagues from our Settlement he had work +done and some wheat sown, which came up very well and ripened. Around our +habitation there is, at low tide, a large number of shell-fish, such as +cockles, muscles, sea-urchins, and Sea-snails, which were very acceptable +to all. + +The snows began on the 6th of October. On the 3d of December, we saw ice +pass which came from some frozen river. The cold was sharp, more severe +than in France, and of much longer duration; and it scarcely rained at all +the entire winter. I suppose that is owing to the north and north-west +winds passing over high mountains always covered with snow. The latter was +from three to four feet deep up to the end of the month of April; lasting +much longer, I suppose, than it would if the country were cultivated. + +During the winter, many of our company were attacked by a certain malady +called the _mal de la terre_; otherwise scurvy, as I have since heard from +learned men. There were produced, in the mouths of those who had it, great +pieces of superfluous and drivelling flesh (causing extensive +putrefaction), which got the upper hand to such an extent that scarcely +anything but liquid could be taken. Their teeth became very loose, and +could be pulled out with the fingers without its causing them pain. The +superfluous flesh was often cut out, which caused them to eject much blood +through the mouth. Afterwards, a violent pain seized their arms and legs, +which remained swollen and very hard, all spotted as if with flea-bites; +and they could not walk on account of the contraction of the muscles, so +that they were almost without strength, and suffered intolerable pains. +They experienced pain also in the loins, stomach, and bowels, had a very +bad cough, and short breath. In a word, they were in such a condition that +the majority of them could not rise nor move, and could not even be raised +up on their feet without falling down in a swoon. So that out of +seventy-nine, who composed our party, thirty-five died, and more than +twenty were on the point of death. The majority of those who remained well +also complained of slight pains and short breath. We were unable to find +any remedy for these maladies. A _post mortem_ examination of several was +made to investigate the cause of their disease. + +In the case of many, the interior parts were found mortified such as the +lungs, which were so changed that no natural fluid could be perceived in +them. The spleen was serous and swollen. The liver was _legueux?_ and +spotted, without its natural color. The _vena cava_, superior and inferior, +was filled with thick coagulated and black blood. The gall was tainted. +Nevertheless, many arteries, in the middle as well as lower bowels, were +found in very good condition. In the case of some, incisions with a razor +were made on the thighs where they had purple spots, whence there issued a +very black clotted blood. This is what was observed on the bodies of those +infected with this malady.[105] + +Our surgeons could not help suffering themselves in the same manner as the +rest. Those who continued sick were healed by spring, which commences in +this country in May.[106] That led us to believe that the change of season +restored their health rather than the remedies prescribed. + +During this winter, all our liquors froze, except the Spanish wine. Cider +was dispensed by the pound. The cause of this loss was that there were no +cellars to our storehouse, and that the air which entered by the cracks was +sharper than that outside. We were obliged to use very bad water, and drink +melted snow, as there were no springs nor brooks; for it was not possible +to go to the main land in consequence of the great pieces of ice drifted by +the tide, which varies three fathoms between low and high water. Work on +the hand-mill was very fatiguing, since the most of us, having slept +poorly, and suffering from insufficiency of fuel, which we could not obtain +on account of the ice, had scarcely any strength, and also because we ate +only salt meat and vegetables during the winter, which produce bad blood. +The latter circumstance was, in my opinion, a partial cause of these +dreadful maladies. All this produced discontent in Sieur de Monts and +others of the settlement. + +It would be very difficult to ascertain the character of this region +without spending a winter in it; for, on arriving here in summer, every +thing is very agreeable, in consequence of the woods, fine country, and the +many varieties of good fish which are found there. There are six months of +winter in this country. + +The savages who dwell here are few in number. During the winter, in the +deepest snows, they hunt elks and other animals, on which they live most of +the time. And, unless the snow is deep, they scarcely get rewarded for +their pains, since they cannot capture any thing except by a very great +effort, which is the reason for their enduring and suffering much. When +they do not hunt, they live on a shell-fish, called the cockle. They clothe +themselves in winter with good furs of beaver and elk. The women make all +the garments, but not so exactly but that you can see the flesh under the +arm-pits, because they have not ingenuity enough to fit them better. When +they go a-hunting, they use a kind of show-shoe twice as large as those +hereabouts, which they attach to the soles of their feet, and walk thus +over the snow without sinking in, the women and children as well as the +men. They search for the track of animals, which, having found, they +follow until they get sight of the creature, when they shoot at it with +their bows, or kill it by means of daggers attached to the end of a short +pike, which is very easily done, as the animals cannot walk on the snow +without sinking in. Then the women and children come up, erect a hut, and +they give themselves to feasting. Afterwards, they return in search of +other animals, and thus they pass the winter. In the month of March +following, some savages came and gave us a portion of their game in +exchange for bread and other things which we gave them. This is the mode of +life in winter of these people, which seems to me a very miserable one. + +We looked for our vessels at the end of April; but, as this passed without +their arriving, all began to have an ill-boding, fearing that some accident +had befallen them. For this reason, on the 15th of May, Sieur de Monts +decided to have a barque of fifteen tons and another of seven fitted up, so +that we might go at the end of the month of June to Gaspé in quest of +vessels in which to return to France, in case our own should not meanwhile +arrive. But God helped us better than we hoped; for, on the 15th of June +ensuing, while on guard about 11 o'clock at night, Pont Gravé, captain of +one of the vessels of Sieur de Monts, arriving in a shallop, informed us +that his ship was anchored six leagues from our settlement, and he was +welcomed amid the great joy of all. + +The next day the vessel arrived, and anchored near our habitation. Pont +Gravé informed us that a vessel from St. Malo, called the St. Estienne, +was following him, bringing us provisions and supplies. + +On the 17th of the month, Sieur de Monts decided to go in quest of a place +better adapted for an abode, and with a better temperature than our own. +With this view, he had the barque made ready, in which he had purposed to +go to Gaspé. + +ENDNOTES: + +105. _Mal de la terre_. Champlain had bitter experiences of this disease in + Quebec during the winter of 1608-9, when he was still ignorant of its + character; and it was not till several years later that he learned + that it was the old malady called _scurbut_, from the Sclavonic + _scorb_. Latinized into _scorbuticus_. Lescarbot speaks of this + disease as little understood in his time, but as known to Hippocrates. + He quotes Olaus Magnus, who describes it as it appeared among the + nations of the north, who called it _sorbet_, [Greek: kachexia], from + [Greek: kakos], bad, and [Greek: exis], a habit. This undoubtedly + expresses the true cause of this disease, now familiarly known as the + scurvy. It follows exposure to damp, cold, and impure atmosphere, + accompanied by the long-continued use of the same kind of food, + particularly of salt meats, with bad water. All of these conditions + existed at the Island of St. Croix. Champlain's description of the + disease is remarkably accurate. + +106. This passage might be read, "which is in this country in May:" _lequel + commence en ces pays là est en May_. As Laverdière suggests, it looks + as if Champlain wrote it first _commence_, and then, thinking that the + winter he had experienced might have been exceptional, substituted + _est_, omitting to erase _commence_, so that the sentence, as it + stands, is faulty, containing two verbs instead of one, and being + susceptible of a double sense. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +DISCOVERY OF THE COAST OF THE ALMOUCHIQUOIS AS FAR AS THE FORTY-SECOND +DEGREE OF LATITUDE, AND DETAILS OF THIS VOYAGE. + + +On the 18th of June, 1605, Sieur de Monts set out from the Island of +St. Croix with some gentlemen, twenty sailors, and a savage named +Panounias, together with his wife, whom he was unwilling to leave behind. +These we took, in order to serve us as guides to the country of the +Almouchiquois, in the hope of exploring and learning more particularly by +their aid what the character of this country was, especially since she was +a native of it. + +Coasting, along inside of Manan, an island three leagues from the main +land, we came to the Ranges on the seaward side, at one of which we +anchored, where there was a large number of crows, of which our men +captured a great many, and we called it the Isle aux Corneilles. Thence we +went to the Island of Monts Déserts, at the entrance of the river +Norumbegue, as I have before stated, and sailed five or six leagues among +many islands. Here there came to us three savages in a canoe from Bedabedec +Point, where their captain was; and, after we had had some conversation +with them, they returned the same day. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S DESCRIPTION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +QUINIBEQUY. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. The course of the river. +_B_. Two islands at the entrance of the river. +_C_. Two very dangerous rocks in the river. +_D_. Islets and rocks along the coast. +_E_. Shoals where at full tide vessels of sixty tons' burden may run + aground. +_F_. Place where the savages encamp when they come to fish. +_G_. Sandy shoals along the coast. +_H_. Pond of fresh water. +_I_. Brook where shallops can enter at half tide. +_L_. Islands to the number of four just within the mouth of the river. + + * * * * * + +On Friday, the 1st of July, we set out from one of the islands at the mouth +of the river, where there is a very good harbor for vessels of a hundred or +a hundred and fifty tons. This day we made some twenty-five leagues between +Bedabedec Point and many islands and rocks, which we observed as far as the +river Quinibequy, at the mouth of which is a very high island, which we +called the Tortoise. [107] Between the latter and the main land there are +some scattering rocks, which are covered at full tide, although the sea is +then seen to break over them. [108] Tortoise Island and the river lie +south-south-east and north-north-west. As you enter, there are two +medium-sized islands forming the entrance, one on one side, the other on +the other; [109] and some three hundred paces farther in are two rocks, +where there is no wood, but some little grass. We anchored three hundred +paces from the entrance in five and six fathoms of water. While in this +place, we were overtaken by fogs, on account of which we resolved to enter, +in order to see the upper part of the river and the savages who live there; +and we set out for this purpose on the 5th of the month. Having made some +leagues, our barque came near being lost on a rock which we grazed in +passing. [110] Further on, we met two canoes which had come to hunt birds, +which for the most part are moulting at this season, and cannot fly. We +addressed these savages by aid of our own, who went to them with his wife, +who made them understand the reason of our coming. We made friends with +them and with the savages of this river, who served us as guides. +Proceeding farther, in order to see their captain, named Manthoumermer, we +passed, after we had gone seven or eight leagues, by some islands, straits, +and brooks, which extend along the river, where we saw some fine +meadows. After we had coasted along an island [111] some four leagues in +length, they conducted us to where their chief was [112] with twenty-five +or thirty savages, who, as soon as we had anchored, came to us in a canoe, +separated a short distance from ten others, in which were those who +accompanied him. Coming near our barque, he made an harangue, in which he +expressed the pleasure it gave him to see us, and said that he desired to +form an alliance with us and to make peace with his enemies through our +mediation. He said that, on the next day, he would send to two other +captains of savages, who were in the interior, one called Marchin, and the +other Sasinou, chief of the river Quinibequy. Sieur de Monts gave them some +cakes and peas, with which they were greatly pleased. The next day they +guided us down the river another way than that by which we had come, in +order to go to a lake; and, passing by some islands, they left, each one of +them, an arrow near a cape [113] where all the savages pass, and they +believe that if they should not do this some misfortune would befall them, +according to the persuasions of the devil. They live in such superstitions, +and practise many others of the same sort. Beyond this cape we passed a +very narrow waterfall, but only with great difficulty; for, although we had +a favorable and fresh wind, and trimmed our sails to receive it as well as +possible, in order to see whether we could not pass it in that way, we were +obliged to attach a hawser to some trees on shore and all pull on it. In +this way, by means of our arms together with the help of the wind, which +was favorable to us, we succeeded in passing it. The savages accompanying +us carried their canoes by land, being unable to row them. After going over +this fall, we saw some fine meadows. I was greatly surprised by this fall, +since as we descended with the tide we found it in our favor, but contrary +to us when we came to the fall. But, after we had passed it, it descended +as before, which gave us great Satisfaction. [114] Pursuing our route, we +came to the lake, [115] which is from three to four leagues in length. Here +are some islands, and two rivers enter it, the Quinibequy coming from the +north north-east, and the other from the north-west, whence were to come +Marchin and Sasinou. Having awaited them all this day, and as they did not +come, we resolved to improve our time. We weighed anchor accordingly, and +there accompanied us two savages from this lake to serve as guides. The +same day we anchored at the mouth of the river, where we caught a large +number of excellent fish of various sorts. Meanwhile, our savages went +hunting, but did not return. The route by which we descended this river is +much safer and better than that by which we had gone. Tortoise Island +before the mouth of this river is in latitude [116] 44°; and 19° 12' of the +deflection of the magnetic needle. They go by this river across the country +to Quebec some fifty leagues, making only one portage of two leagues. After +the portage, you enter another little stream which flows into the great +river St. Lawrence [117]. This river Quinibequy is very dangerous for +vessels half a league from its mouth, on account of the small amount of +water, great tides, rocks and shoals outside as well as within. But it has +a good channel, if it were well marked out. The land, so far as I have seen +it along the shores of the river, is very poor, for there are only rocks on +all sides. There are a great many small oaks, and very little arable land. +Fish abound here, as in the other rivers which I have mentioned. The people +live like those in the neighborhood of our settlement; and they told us +that the savages, who plant the Indian corn, dwelt very far in the +interior, and that they had given up planting it on the coasts on account +of the war they had with others, who came and took it away. This is what I +have been able to learn about this region, which I think is no better than +the others. + +On the 8th of the month, we set out from the mouth of this river, not being +able to do so sooner on account of the fogs. We made that day some four +leagues, and passed a bay [118], where there are a great many islands. From +here large mountains [119] are seen to the west, in which is the +dwelling-place of a savage captain called Aneda, who encamps near the river +Quinibequy. I was satisfied from this name that it was one of his tribe +that had discovered the plant called Aneda, [120] which Jacques Cartier +said was so powerful against the malady called scurvy, of which we have +already spoken, which harassed his company as well as our own, when they +wintered in Canada. The savages have no knowledge at all of this plant, and +are not aware of its existence, although the above-mentioned savage has the +same name. The following day we made eight leagues. [121] As we passed +along the coast, we perceived two columns of smoke which some savages made +to attract our attention. We went and anchored in the direction of them +behind a small island near the main land, [122] where we saw more than +eighty savages running along the shore to see us, dancing and giving +expression to their joy. Sieur de Monts sent two men together with our +savage to visit them. After they had spoken some time with them, and +assured them of our friendship, we left with them one of our number, and +they delivered to us one of their companions as a hostage. Meanwhile, Sieur +de Monts visited an island, which is very beautiful in view of what it +produces; for it has fine oaks and nut-trees, the soil cleared up, and many +vineyards bearing beautiful grapes in their season, which were the first we +had seen on all these coasts from the Cap de la Hève. We named it Isle de +Bacchus [123]. It being full tide, we weighed anchor and entered a little +river, which we could not sooner do; for there is a bar, there being at low +tide only half a fathom of water, at full tide a fathom and a half, and at +the highest water two fathoms. On the other side of the bar there are +three, four, five, and six fathoms. When we had anchored, a large number of +savages came to the bank of the river, and began to dance. Their captain at +the time, whom they called Honemechin [124], was not with them. He arrived +about two or three hours later with two canoes, when he came sweeping +entirely round our barque. Our savage could understand only a few words, as +the language of the Almouchiquois [125] (for that is the name of this +nation) differs entirely from that of the Souriquois and Etechemins. These +people gave signs of being greatly pleased. Their chief had a good figure, +was young and agile. We sent some articles of merchandise on shore to +barter with them; but they had nothing but their robes to give in exchange, +for they preserve only such furs as they need for their garments. Sieur de +Monts ordered some provisions to be given to their chief, with which he was +greatly pleased, and came several times to the side of our boat to see us. +These savages shave off the hair far up on the head, and wear what remains +very long, which they comb and twist behind in various ways very neatly, +intertwined with feathers which they attach to the head. They paint their +faces black and red, like the other savages which we have seen. They are an +agile people, with well-formed bodies. Their weapons are pikes, clubs, bows +and arrows, at the end of which some attach the tail of a fish called the +signoc, others bones, while the arrows of others are entirely of wood. They +till and cultivate the soil, something which we have not hitherto +observed. In the place of ploughs, they use an instrument of very hard +wood, shaped like a spade. This river is called by the inhabitants of the +country Choüacoet. [126] + +The next day Sieur de Monts and I landed to observe their tillage on the +bank of the river. We saw their Indian corn, which they raise in gardens. +Planting three or four kernels in one place, they then heap up about it a +quantity of earth with shells of the signoc before mentioned. Then three +feet distant they plant as much more, and thus in succession. With this +corn they put in each hill three or four Brazilian beans, [127] which are +of different colors. When they grow up, they interlace with the corn, which +reaches to the height of from five to six feet; and they keep the ground +very free from weeds. We saw there many squashes,[128] and pumpkins, [129] +and tobacco, which they likewise cultivate. [130] + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +CHOUACOIT R. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. The river. +_B_. Place where they have their fortress. +_C_. Cabins in the open fields, near which they cultivate the land and + plant Indian corn. +_D_. Extensive tract of land which is sandy, but covered with grass. +_E_. Another place where they have their dwellings all together after they + have planted their corn. +_F_. Marshes with good pasturage. +_G_. Spring of fresh water. +_H_. A large point of land all cleared up except some fruit trees and wild + vines. +_I_. Little island at the entrance of the river. +_L_. Another islet. +_M_. Two islands under shelter of which vessels can anchor with good + bottom. +_N_. A point of land cleared up where Marchin came to us. +_O_. Four islands. +_P_. Little brook dry at low tide. +_Q_. Shoals along the coast. +_R_. Roadsted where vessels can anchor while waiting for the tide. + +NOTES. Of the two islands in the northern part of the bay, the larger, +marked _M_, is Stratton Island, nearly half a mile long, and a mile and a +half from Prout's Neck, which lies north of it. A quarter of a mile from +Stratton is Bluff Island, a small island north-west of it. Of the four +islands at the southern end of the bay, the most eastern is Wood Island, on +which the United States maintain a light. The next on the west, two hundred +and fifty yards distant, is Negro Island. The third still further west is +Stage Island. The fourth, quarter of a mile west of the last named, is +Basket Island. The neck or peninsula, south-west of the islands, is now +called the POOL, much resorted to as a watering-place in the summer. The +island near the mouth of the river is Ram Island, and that directly north +of it is Eagle Island. From the mouth of the River to Prout's Neck, marked, +is one of the finest beaches in New England, extending about six nautical +miles. Its Southern extremity is known as Ferry, the northern Scarborough, +and midway between them is Old Orchard Beach, the latter a popular resort +in the summer months of persons from distant parts of the United States and +Canada. + + * * * * * + +The Indian corn which we saw was at that time about two feet high, some of +it as high as three. The beans were beginning to flower, as also the +pumpkins and squashes. They plant their corn in May, and gather it in +September. We saw also a great many nuts, which are small and have several +divisions. There were as yet none on the trees, but we found plenty under +them, from the preceding year. We saw also many grape-vines, on which there +was a remarkably fine berry, from which we made some very good verjuice. +We had heretofore seen grapes only on the Island of Bacchus, distant nearly +two leagues from this river. Their permanent abode, the tillage, and the +fine trees led us to conclude that the air here is milder and better than +that where we passed the winter, and at the other places we visited on the +coast. But I cannot believe that there is not here a considerable degree +of cold, although it is in latitude 43° 45'. [131] The forests in the +interior are very thin, although abounding in oaks, beeches, ashes, and +elms; in wet places there are many willows. The savages dwell permanently +in this place, and have a large cabin surrounded by palisades made of +rather large trees placed by the side of each other, in which they take +refuge when their enemies make war upon them. [132] They cover their cabins +with oak bark. This place is very pleasant, and as agreeable as any to be +seen. The river is very abundant in fish, and is bordered by meadows. At +the mouth there is a small island adapted for the construction of a good +fortress, where one could be in security. + +On Sunday, [133] the 12th of the month, we set out from the river +Choüacoet. After coasting along some six or seven leagues, a contrary wind +arose, which obliged us to anchor and go ashore, [134] where we saw two +meadows, each a league in length and half a league in breadth. We saw there +two savages, whom at first we took to be the great birds called bustards, +to be found in this country; who, as soon as they caught sight of us, took +flight into the woods, and were not seen again. From Choüacoet to this +place, where we saw some little birds, which sing like blackbirds, and are +black excepting the ends of the wings, which are orange-colored, [135] +there is a large number of grape-vines and nut-trees. This coast is sandy, +for the most part, all the way from Quinibequy. This day we returned two +or three leagues towards Choüacoet, as far as a cape which we called Island +Harbor, [136] favorable for vessels of a hundred tons, about which are +three islands. Heading north-east a quarter north, one can enter another +harbor [137] near this place, to which there is no approach, although there +are islands, except the one where you enter. At the entrance there are some +dangerous reefs. There are in these islands so many red currants that one +sees for the most part nothing else, [138] and an infinite number of +pigeons, [139] of which we took a great quantity. This Island Harbor [140] +is in latitude 43° 25'. + +On the 15th of the month we made twelve leagues. Coasting along, we +perceived a smoke on the shore, which we approached as near as possible, +but saw no savage, which led us to believe that they had fled. The sun set, +and we could find no harbor for that night, since the coast was flat and +sandy. Keeping off, and heading south, in order to find an anchorage, after +proceeding about two leagues, we observed a cape [141] on the main land +south a quarter south-east of us, some six leagues distant. Two leagues to +the east we saw three or four rather high islands, [142] and on the west a +large bay. The coast of this bay, reaching as far as the cape, extends +inland from where we were perhaps four leagues. It has a breadth of two +leagues from north to south, and three at its entrance. [143] Not observing +any place favorable for putting in, [144] we resolved to go to the cape +above mentioned with short sail, which occupied a portion of the night. +Approaching to where there were sixteen fathoms of water, we anchored until +daybreak. + +On the next day we went to the above-mentioned cape, where there are three +islands [145] near the main land, full of wood of different kinds, as at +Choüacoet and all along the coast; and still another flat one, where there +are breakers, and which extends a little farther out to Sea than the +others, on which there is no wood at all. We named this place Island Cape, +[146] near which we saw a canoe containing five or six savages, who came +out near our barque, and then went back and danced on the beach. Sieur de +Monts sent me on shore to observe them, and to give each one of them a +knife and some biscuit, which caused them to dance again better than +before. This over, I made them understand, as well as I could, that I +desired them to show me the course of the shore. After I had drawn with a +crayon the bay, [147] and the Island Cape, where we were, with the same +crayon they drew the outline of another bay, [148] which they represented +as very large; here they placed six pebbles at equal distances apart, +giving me to understand by this that these signs represented as many chiefs +and tribes. [149] Then they drew within the first mentioned bay a river +which we had passed, which has shoals and is very long. [150] We found in +this place a great many vines, the green grapes on which were a little +larger than peas, also many nut-trees, the nuts on which were no larger +than musket-balls. The savages told us that all those inhabiting this +country cultivated the land and sowed seeds like the others, whom we had +before seen. The latitude of this place is 43° and some minutes. [151] +Sailing half a league farther, we observed several savages on a rocky +point, [152] who ran along the shore, dancing as they went, to their +companions to inform them of our coming. After pointing out to us the +direction of their abode, they made a signal with smoke to show us the +place of their settlement. We anchored near a little island, [153] and sent +our canoe with knives and cakes for the savages. From the large number of +those we saw, we concluded that these places were better inhabited than the +others we had seen. + +After a stay of some two hours for the sake of observing those people, +whose canoes are made of birch bark, like those of the Canadians, +Souriquois, and Etechemins, we weighed anchor and set sail with a promise +of fine weather. Continuing our course to the west-south-west we saw +numerous islands on one side and the other. Having sailed seven or eight +leagues, we anchored near an island, [154] whence we observed many smokes +along the shore, and many savages running up to see us. Sieur de Monts sent +two or three men in a canoe to them, to whom he gave some knives and +paternosters to present to them; with which they were greatly pleased, and +danced several times in acknowledgment. We could not ascertain the name of +their chief, as we did not know their language. All along the shore there +is a great deal of land cleared up and planted with Indian corn. The +country is very pleasant and agreeable, and there is no lack of fine trees. +The canoes of those who live there are made of a single piece, and are very +liable to turn over if one is not skilful in managing them. We had not +before seen any of this kind. They are made in the following manner. After +cutting down, at a cost of much labor and time, the largest and tallest +tree they can find, by means of stone hatchets (for they have no others +except some few which they received from the savages on the coasts of La +Cadie, [155] them in exchange for furs), they remove the bark, and round +off the tree except on one side, where they apply fire gradually along its +entire length; and sometimes they put red-hot pebble-stones on top. When +the fire is too fierce, they extinguish it with a little water, not +entirely, but so that the edge of the boat may not be burnt. It being +hollowed out as much as they wish, they scrape it all over with stones, +which they use instead of knives. These stones resemble our musket flints. + +On the next day, the 17th of the month, we weighed anchor to go to a cape +we had seen the day before, which seemed to lie on our south +south-west. This day we were able to make only five leagues, and we passed +by some islands [156] covered with wood. I observed in the bay all that the +savages had described to me at Island Cape. As we continued our course, +large numbers came to us in canoes from the islands and main land. We +anchored a league from a cape, which we named St. Louis, [157] where we +noticed smoke in several places. While in the act of going there, our +barque grounded on a rock, where we were in great danger, for, if we had +not speedily got it off, it would have overturned in the sea, since the +tide was falling all around, and there were five or six fathoms of +water. But God preserved us, and we anchored near the above-named cape, +when there come to us fifteen or sixteen canoes of savages. In some of them +there were fifteen or sixteen, who began to manifest great signs of joy, +and made various harangues, which we could not in the least understand. +Sieur de Monts sent three or four men on shore in our canoe, not only to +get water, but to see their chief, whose name was Honabetha. The latter had +a number of knives and other trifles, which Sieur de Monts gave him, when +he came alongside to see us, together with some of his companions, who were +present both along the shore and in their canoes. We received the chief +very cordially, and made him welcome; who, after remaining some time, went +back. Those whom we had sent to them brought us some little squashes as big +as the fist, which we ate as a salad, like cucumbers, and which we found +very good. They brought also some purslane, [158] which grows in large +quantities among the Indian corn, and of which they make no more account +than of weeds. We saw here a great many little houses, scattered over the +fields where they plant their Indian corn. + +There is, moreover, in this bay a very broad river, which we named River du +Guast. [159] It stretches, as it seemed to me, towards the Iroquois, a +nation in open warfare with the Montagnais, who live on the great river +St. Lawrence. + +ENDNOTES: + +107. _Isle de la Tortue_, commonly known as Seguin Island, high and rocky, + with precipitous shores. It is nearly equidistant from Wood, Pond, and + Salter's Islands at the mouth of the Kennebec, and about one mile and + three quarters from each. The United States light upon it is 180 feet + above the level of the sea. It may be seen at the distance of twenty + miles. + +108. Ellingwood Rock, Seguin Ledges, and White Ledge. + +109. Pond Island on the west, and Stage Island on the east: the two rocks + referred to in the same sentence are now called the Sugar Loaves. + +110. This was apparently in the upper part of Back River, where it is + exceedingly narrow. The minute and circumstantial description of the + mouth of the Kennebec, and the positive statement in the text that + they entered the river so described, and the conformity of the + description to that laid down on our Coast Survey Charts, as well as + on Champlain's local map, all render it certain that they entered the + mouth of the Kennebec proper; and having entered, they must have + passed on a flood-tide into and through Back River, which in some + places is so narrow that their little barque could hardly fall to be + grazed in passing. Having reached Hockomock Bay, they passed down + through the lower Hell Gate, rounded the southern point of West Port + or Jerremisquam Island, sailing up its eastern shore until they + reached the harbor of Wiscasset; then down the western side, turning + Hockomock Point, threading the narrow passage of the Sasanoa River + through the upper Hell Gate, entering the Sagadahoc, passing the + Chops, and finally through the Neck, into Merrymeeting Bay. The + narrowness of the channel and the want of water at low tide in Back + River would seem at first blush to throw a doubt over the possibility + of Champlain's passing through this tidal passage. But it has at least + seven feet of water at high tide. His little barque, of fifteen tons, + without any cargo, would not draw more than four feet at most, and + would pass through without any difficulty, incommoded only by the + narrowness of the channel to which Champlain refers. With the same + barque, they passed over the bar at Nauset, or Mallebarre, where + Champlain distinctly says there were only four feet of water.--_Vide + postea_, p. 81. + +111. West Port, or Jerremisquam Island. + +112. This was Wiscasset Harbor, as farther on it will be seen that from + this point they started down the river, taking another way than that + by which they had come. + +113. Hockomock Point, a rocky precipitous bluff. + +114. The movement of the waters about this "narrow waterfall" has been a + puzzle from the days of Champlain to the present time. The phenomena + have not changed. Having consulted the United States Coast Pilot and + likewise several persons who have navigated these waters and have a + personal knowledge of the "fall," the following is, we think, a + satisfactory explanation. The stream in which the fall occurs is + called the Sasanoa, and is a tidal current flowing from the Kennebec, + opposite the city of Bath, to the Sheepscot. It was up this tidal + passage that Champlain was sailing from the waters of the Sheepscot to + the Kennebec, and the "narrow waterfall" was what is now called the + upper Hell Gate, which is only fifty yards wide, hemmed in by walls of + rock on both sides. Above it the Sasanoa expands into a broad bay. + When the tide from the Kennebec has filled this bay, the water rushes + through this narrow gate with a velocity Sometimes of thirteen miles + an hour. There is properly no fall in the bed of the stream, but the + appearance of a fall is occasioned by the pent-up waters of the bay + above rushing through this narrow outlet, having accumulated faster + than they could be drained off. At half ebb, on a spring tide, a wall + of water from six inches to a foot stretches across the stream, and + the roar of the flood boiling over the rocks at the Gate can be heard + two miles below. The tide continues to flow up the Sasanoa from the + Sheepscot not only on the flood, but for some time on the ebb, as the + waters in the upper part of the Sheepscot and its bays, in returning, + naturally force themselves up this passage until they are sufficiently + drained off to turn the current in the Sasanoa in the other direction. + Champlain, sailing from the Sheepscot up the Sasanoa, arrived at the + Gate probably just as the tide was beginning to turn, and when there + was comparatively only a slight fall, but yet enough to make it + necessary to force their little barque up through the Gate by means of + hawsers as described in the text. After getting a short distance from + the narrows, he would be on the water ebbing back into the Kennebec, + and would be still moving with the tide, as he had been until he + reached the fall. + +115. Merrymeeting Bay, so called from the meeting in this bay of the two + rivers mentioned in the text a little below, viz., the Kennebec and + the Androscoggin. + +116. The latitude of Seguin, here called Tortoise Island, is 43° 42' 25". + +117. The head-waters of the Kennebec, as well as those of the Penobscot, + approach very near to the Chaudière, which flows into the St. + Lawrence near Quebec. + +118. Casco Bay, which stretches from Cape Small Point to Cape Elizabeth. It + has within it a hundred and thirty-six islands. They anchored and + passed the night somewhere within the limits of this bay, but did not + attempt its exploration. + +119. These were the White Mountains in New Hampshire, towering above the + sea 6,225 feet. They are about sixty miles distant from Casco Bay, and + were observed by all the early voyagers as they sailed along the coast + of Maine. They are referred to on Ribero's Map of 1529 by the Spanish + word _montañas_, and were evidently seen by Estevan Gomez in 1525, + whose discoveries are delineated by this map. They will also be found + on the Mappe-Monde of about the middle of the sixteenth century, and + on Sebastian Cabot's map, 1544, both included in the "Monuments de la + Géographie" of Jomard, and they are also indicated on numerous other + early maps. + +120. This conjecture is not sustained by any evidence beyond the similarity + of the names. There are numerous idle opinions as to the kind of plant + which was so efficacious a remedy for the scurvy, but they are utterly + without foundation. There does not appear to be any means of + determining what the healing plant was. + +121. The four leagues of the previous day added to the eight of this bring + them from the Kennebec to Saco Bay. + +122. The small island "proche de la grande terre" was Stratton Island: they + anchored on the northern side and nearly east of Bluff Island, which + is a quarter of a mile distant. The Indians came down to welcome them + from the promontory long known as Black Point, now called Prout's + Neck. Compare Champlain's local map and the United States Coast Survey + Charts. + +123. Champlain's narrative, together with his sketch or drawing, + illustrating the mouth of the Saco and its environs, compared with the + United States Coast Survey Charts, renders it certain that this was + Richmond Island. Lescarbot describes it as a 'great island, about half + a league in compass, at the entrance of the bay of the said place of + Choüacoet It is about a mile long, and eight hundred yards in its + greatest width.--_Coast Pilot_. It received its present name at a very + early period. It was granted under the title of "a small island, + called Richmond," by the Council for New England to Walter Bagnall, + Dec. 2, 1631.--_Vide Calendar of Eng. State Papers_, Col. 1574-1660, + p. 137. Concerning the death of Bagnall on this island a short time + before the above grant was made, _vide Winthrop's Hist. New Eng._, + ed. 1853, Vol. I. pp. 75, 118. + +124. Lescarbot calls him Olmechin.--_Histoire de la Nouvelle France_, par + M. Lescarbot, Paris, 1612, p. 558. + +125. They had hoped that the wife of Panounias, their Indian guide, who was + said to have been born among the Almouchiquois, would be able to + interpret their language, but in this they appear to have been + disappointed.--_Vide antea_, p. 55. + +126. From the Indian word, M'-foo-ah-koo-et, or, as the French pronounced + it, _Choüacoet_, which had been the name, applied by the aborigines to + this locality we know not how long, is derived the name Saco, now + given to the river and city in the same vicinity. The orthography + given to the original word is various, as Sawocotuck, Sowocatuck, + Sawakquatook, Sockhigones, and Choüacost. The variations in this, as + in other Indian words, may have arisen from a misapprehension of the + sound given by the aborigines, or from ignorance, on the part of + writers, of the proper method of representing sounds, joined to an + utter indifference to a matter which seemed to them of trifling + importance. + +127. _Febues du Brésil_. This is the well-known trailing or bush-bean of + New England, _Phaseolus vulgaris_, called the "Brazilian bean" because + it resembled a bean known in France at that time under that name. It + is sometimes called the kidney-bean. It is indigenous to America. + +128. _Citrouilles_, the common summer squash, _Cucurbita polymorpha_, as + may be seen by reference to Champlain's map of 1612, where its form is + delineated over the inscription, _la forme des sitroules_. It is + indigenous to America. Our word squash is derived from the Indian + _askutasquash_ or _isquoutersquash_. "In summer, when their corne is + spent, Isquoutersquashes is their best bread, a fruit like the young + Pumpion."--_Wood's New England Prospect_, 1634, Prince Society ed., + p. 76. "_Askutasquash_, their Vine aples, which the _English_ from + them call _Squashes_, about the bignesse of Apples, of severall + colours, a sweet, light, wholesome refreshing."--_Roger Williams, + Key_, 1643, Narragansett Club ed., p. 125. + +129. _Courges_, the pumpkin, _Cucurbita maxima_, indigenous to America. As + the pumpkin and likewise the squash were vegetables hitherto unknown + to Champlain, there was no French word by which he could accurately + identify them. The names given to them were such as he thought would + describe them to his countrymen more nearly than any others. Had he + been a botanist, he would probably have given them new names. + +130. _Petum_. Tobacco, _Nicotiana rustica_, sometimes called wild tobacco. + It was a smaller and more hardy species than the _Nicotiana tabacum_, + now cultivated in warmer climates, but had the same qualities though + inferior in strength and aroma. It was found in cultivation by the + Indians all along our coast and in Canada. Cartier observed it growing + in Canada in 1535. Of it he says: "There groweth also a certain kind + of herbe, whereof in Sommer they make a great prouision for all the + yeere, making great account of it, and onely men vse of it, and first + they cause it to be dried in the Sunne, then weare it about their + neckes wrapped in a little beasts skinne made like a little bagge, + with a hollow peece of stone or wood like a pipe; then when they + please they make pouder of it, and then put it in one of the ends of + the said Cornet or pipe, and laying a cole of fire vpon it, at the + other ende sucke so long, that they fill their bodies full of smoke, + till that it commeth out of their mouth and nostrils, euen as out of + the Tonnell of a chimney. They say that this doth keepe them warme and + in health: they neuer goe without some of it about them. We ourselues + haue tryed the same smoke, and hauing put it in our mouthes, it seemed + almost as hot as Pepper."--_Jacques Cartier, 2 Voyage_, 1535; + _Hakluyt_, London, ed. 1810, Vol. III. p. 276. + + We may here remark that the esculents found in cultivation at Saco, + beans, squashes, pumpkins, and corn, as well as the tobacco, are all + American tropical or subtropical plants, and must have been + transmitted from tribe to tribe, from more southern climates. The + Indian traditions would seem to indicate this. "They have a + tradition," says Roger Williams, "that the Crow brought them at first + an _Indian_ Graine of Corne in one Eare, and an _Indian_ or _French_ + Beane in another, from the Great God _Kautantouwit's_ field in the + Southwest from whence they hold came all their Corne and Beanes."-- + _Key to the Language of America_, London, 1643, Narragansett Club ed., + p. 144. + + Seventy years before Champlain, Jacques Cartier had found nearly the + same vegetables cultivated by the Indians in the valley of the + St. Lawrence. He says: "They digge their grounds with certaine peeces + of wood, as bigge as halfe a sword, on which ground groweth their + corne, which they call Ossici; it is as bigge as our small peason.... + They haue also great store of Muske-milions. Pompions, Gourds, + Cucumbers, Peason, and Beanes of euery colour, yet differing from + ours."--_Hakluyt_, Vol. II. p. 276. For a full history of these + plants, the reader is referred to the History of Plants, a learned and + elaborate work now in press, by Charles Pickering, M.D. of Boston. + +131. The latitude of Wood Island at the mouth of the Saco, where they were + at anchor, is 43° 27' 23". + +132. The site of this Indian fortification was a rocky bluff on the western + side of the river, now owned by Mr. John Ward, where from time to time + Indian relics have been found. The island at the mouth of the river, + which Champlain speaks of as a suitable location for a fortress, is + Ram Island, and is low and rocky, and about a hundred and fifty yards + in length. + +133. For Sunday read Tuesday.--_Vide Shurtless's Calendar_. + +134. This landing was probably near Wells Neck, and the meadows which they + saw were the salt marshes of Wells. + +135. The Red-wing Blackbird, _Ageloeus phoeniceus_, of lustrous black, with + the bend of the wing red. They are still abundant in the same + locality, and indeed across the whole continent to the Pacific + Ocean.--_Vide Cones's Key_, Boston, 1872, p. 156; _Baird's Report_, + Washington, 1858, Part II. p. 526. + +136. _Le Port aux Isles_. This Island Harbor is the present Cape Porpoise + Harbor. + +137. This harbor is Goose Fair Bay, from one to two miles north-east of + Cape Porpoise, in the middle of which are two large ledges, "the + dangerous reefs" to which Champlain refers. + +138. This was the common red currant of the gardens, _Ribes rubrum_, which + is a native of America. The fetid currant, _Ribes prostratum_, is also + indigenous to this country. It has a pale red fruit, which gives forth + a very disagreeable odor. Josselyn refers to the currant both in his + Voyages and in his Rarities. Tuckerman found it growing wild in the + White Mountains. + +139. The passenger pigeon, _Ectopistes migratorius_, formerly numerous in + New England. Commonly known as the wild pigeon. Wood says they fly in + flocks of millions of millions.--_New England Prospect_, 1634; Prince + Society ed., p. 31. + +140. Champlain's latitude is less inaccurate than usual. It is not possible + to determine the exact point at which he took it. But the latitude of + Cape Porpoise, according to the Coast Survey Charts, is 43° 21' 43". + +141. Cape Anne. + +142. The point at which Champlain first saw Cape Anne, and "isles assez + hautes," the Isles of Shoals, was east of Little Boar's Head, and + three miles from the shore. Nine years afterward, Captain John Smith + visited these islands, and denominated them on his map of New England + Smith's Isles. They began at a very early date to be called the Isles + of Shoals. "Smith's Isles are a heape together, none neere them, + against Accominticus."--_Smith's Description of New England_. Rouge's + map, 1778, has Isles of Shoals, _ou des Ecoles_. For a full + description and history of these islands, the reader is referred to + "The Isles of Shoals," by John S. Jenness, New York, 1875. + +143. Champlain has not been felicitous in his description of this bay. He + probably means to say that from the point where he then was, off + Little Boar's Head, to the point where it extends farthest into the + land, or to the west, it appeared to be about twelve miles, and that + the depth of the bay appeared to be six miles, and eight at the point + of greatest depth. As he did not explore the bay, it is obvious that + he intended to speak of it only as measured by the eye. No name has + been assigned to this expanse of water on our maps. It washes the + coast of Hampton, Salisbury, Newburyport, Ipswich, and Annisquam. It + might well be called Merrimac Bay, aster the name of the important + river that empties its waters into it, midway between its northern and + southern extremities. + +144. It is to be observed that, starting from Cape Porpoise Harbor on the + morning of the 15th of July, they sailed twelve leagues before the + sail of the night commenced. This would bring them, allowing for the + sinuosities of the shore, to a point between Little Boar's Head and + the Isles of Shoals. In this distance, they had passed the sandy + shores of Wells Beach and York Beach in Maine, and Foss's Beach and + Rye Beach in New Hampshire, and still saw the white Sands of Hampton + and Salisbury Beaches stretching far into the bay on their right. The + excellent harbor of Portsmouth, land-locked by numerous islands, had + been passed unobserved. A sail of eighteen nautical miles brought them + to their anchorage at the extreme point of Cape Anne. + +145. Straitsmouth, Thatcher, and Milk island. They were named by Captain + John Smith the "Three Turks' Heads," in memory of the three Turks' + heads cut off by him at the siege of Caniza, by which he acquired from + Sigismundus, prince of Transylvania, their effigies in his shield for + his arms.--_The true Travels, Adventures, and Observations of Captaine + John Smith_, London, 1629. + +146. What Champlain here calls "le Cap aux Isles," Island Cape, is Cape + Anne, called Cape Tragabigzanda by Captain John Smith, the name of his + mistress, to whom he was given when a prisoner among the Turks. The + name was changed by Prince Charles, afterward Charles I., to Cape + Anne, in honor of his mother, who was Anne of Denmark.--_Vide + Description of New England_ by Capt. John Smith, London, 1616. + +147. This was the bay west of a line drawn from Little Boar's Head to Cape + Anne, which may well be called Merrimac Bay. + +148. Massachusetts Bay. + +149. It is interesting to observe the agreement of the sign-writing of this + savage on the point of Cape Anne with the statement of the historian + Gookin, who in 1656 was superintendent of Indian affairs in + Massachusetts, and who wrote in 1674. He says: "Their chief sachem + held dominion over many other petty governours; as those of + Weechagaskas, Neponsitt, Punkapaog, Nonantam, Nashaway, and some of + the Nipmuck people, as far as Pokomtacuke, as the old men of + Massachusetts affirmed." Here we have the six tribes, represented by + the pebbles, recorded seventy years later as a tradition handed down + by the old men of the tribe. Champlain remarks further on, "I observed + in the bay all that the savages had described to me at Island Cape." + +150. This was the Merrimac with its shoals at the mouth, which they had + passed without observing, having sailed from the offing near Little + Boar's Head directly to the head of Cape Anne, during the darkness of + the previous night. + +151. The latitude of the Straitsmouth Island Light on the extreme point of + Cape Anne is 42° 39' 43". A little east of it, where they probably + anchored, there are now sixteen fathoms of water. + +152. Emmerson's Point, forming the eastern extremity of Cape Anne, twenty + or twenty-five feet high, fringed with a wall of bare rocks on the + sea. + +153. Thatcher's Island, near the point just mentioned. It is nearly half a + mile long and three hundred and fifty yards wide, and about fifty feet + high. + +154. It is not possible to determine with absolute certainty the place of + this anchorage. But as Champlain describes, at the end of this + chapter, what must have been Charles River coming from the country of + the Iroquois or the west, most likely as seen from his anchorage, + there can be little doubt that he anchored in Boston Harbor, near the + western limit of Noddle's Island, now known as East Boston. + +155. The fishermen and fur-traders had visited these coasts from a very + early period.--_Vide antea_, note 18. From them they obtained the axe, + a most important implement in their rude mode of life, and it was + occasionally found in use among tribes far in the interior. + + _La Cadie_. Carelessness or indifference in regard to the orthography + of names was general in the time of Champlain. The volumes written in + the vain attempt to settle the proper method of spelling the name of + Shakespeare, are the fruit of this indifference. La Cadie did not + escape this treatment. Champlain writes it Arcadie, Accadie, La Cadie, + Acadie, and L'Acadie; while Lescarbot uniformly, as far as we have + observed, La Cadie. We have also seen it written L'Arcadie and + L'Accadie, and in some, if not in all the preceding forms, with a + Latin termination in _ia_. It is deemed important to secure + uniformity, and to follow the French form in the translation of a + French work rather than the Latin. In this work, it is rendered LA + CADIE in all cases except in quotations. The history of the name + favors this form rather than any other. The commission or charter + given to De Monts by Henry IV. in 1603, a state paper or legal + document, drawn, we may suppose, with more than usual care, has La + Cadie, and repeats it four times without variation. It is a name of + Indian origin, as may be inferred by its appearing in composition in + such words as Passamacadie, Subenacadie, and Tracadie, plainly derived + from the language spoken by the Souriquois and Etechemins. Fifty-five + years before it was introduced into De Monts's commission, it appeared + written _Larcadia_ in Gastaldo's map of "Terra Nova del Bacalaos," in + the Italian translation of Ptolemy's Geography, by Pietro Andrea + Mattiolo, printed at Venice in 1548. The colophon bears date October, + 1547. This rare work is in the possession of Henry C. Murphy, LL.D., + to whom we are indebted for a very beautiful copy of the map. It + appeared again in 1561 on the map of Ruscelli, which was borrowed, as + well as the whole map, from the above work.--_Vide Ruscelli's map in + Dr. Kohl's Documentary History of Maine_, Maine Hist. Soc., Portland, + 1869, p. 233. On this map, Larcadia stands on the coast of Maine, in + the midst of the vast territory included in De Monts's grant, between + the degrees of forty and forty-six north latitude. It will be + observed, if we take away the Latin termination, that the + pronunciation of this word as it first appeared in 1547, would not + differ in _sound_ from La Cadie. It seems, therefore, very clear that + the name of the territory stretching along the coast of Maine, we know + not how far north or south, as it was caught from the lips of the + natives at some time anterior 1547, was best represented by La Cadie, + as pronounced by the French. Whether De Monts had obtained the name of + his American domain from those who had recently visited the coast and + had caught its sound from the natives, or whether he had taken it from + this ancient map, we must remain uninformed. Several writers have + ventured to interpret the word, and give us its original meaning. The + following definitions have been offered: 1. The land of dogs; 2. Our + village; 3. The fish called pollock; 4. Place; 5. Abundance. We do not + undertake to decide between the disagreeing doctors. But it is obvious + to remark that a rich field lies open ready for a noble harvest for + any young scholar who has a genius for philology, and who is prepared + to make a life work of the study and elucidation of the original + languages of North America. The laurels in this field are still to be + gathered. + +156. The islands in Boston Bay. + +157. This attempt to land was in Marshfield near the mouth of South River. + Not succeeding, they sailed forward a league, and anchored at Brant + Point, which they named the Cape of St. Louis. + +158. This purslane, _Portulaca oleracea_, still grows vigorously among the + Indian corn in New England, and is regarded with no more interest now + than in 1605. It is a tropical plant, and was introduced by the + Indians probably by accident with the seeds of tobacco or other + plants. + +159. Here at the end of the chapter Champlain seems to be reminded that he + had omitted to mention the river of which he had learned, and had + probably seen in the bay. This was Charles River. From the western + side of Noddle's Island, or East Boston, where they were probably at + anchor, it appeared at its confluence with the Mystic River to come + from the west, or the country of the Iroquois. By reference to + Champlain's large map of 1612, this river will be clearly identified + as Charles River, in connection with Boston Bay and its numerous + islands. On that map it is represented as a long river flowing from + the west. This description of the river by Champlain was probably from + personal observation. Had he obtained his information from the + Indians, they would not have told him that it was broad or that it + came from the west, for such are not the facts; but they would have + represented to him that it was small, winding in its course, and that + it came from the south. We infer, therefore, that he not only saw it + himself, but probably from the deck of the little French barque, as it + was riding at anchor in our harbor near East Boston, where Charles + River, augmented by the tide, flows into the harbor from the west, in + a strong, broad, deep current. They named it in honor of Pierre du + Guast, Sieur de Monts, the commander of this expedition. Champlain + writes the name "du Gas;" De Laet has "de Gua;" while Charlevoix + writes "du Guast." This latter orthography generally prevails. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +CONTINUATION OF THE DISCOVERIES ALONG THE COAST OF THE ALMOUCHIQUOIS, AND +WHAT WE OBSERVED IN DETAIL. + + +The next day we doubled Cap St. Louis, [160] so named by Sieur de Monts, a +land rather low, and in latitude 42° 45'. [161] The same day we sailed two +leagues along a sandy coast, as we passed along which we saw a great many +cabins and gardens. The wind being contrary, we entered a little bay to +await a time favorable for proceeding. There came to us two or three +canoes, which had just been fishing for cod and other fish, which are found +there in large numbers. These they catch with hooks made of a piece of +wood, to which they attach a bone in the shape of a spear, and fasten it +very securely. The whole has a fang-shape, and the line attached to it is +made out of the bark of a tree. They gave me one of their hooks, which I +took as a curiosity. In it the bone was fastened on by hemp, like that in +France, as it seemed to me, and they told me that they gathered this plant +without being obliged to cultivate it; and indicated that it grew to the +height of four or five feet. [162] This canoe went back on shore to give +notice to their fellow inhabitants, who caused columns of smoke to arise on +our account. We saw eighteen or twenty savages, who came to the shore and +began to dance. Our canoe landed in order to give them some bagatelles, at +which they were greatly pleased. Some of them came to us and begged us to +go to their river. We weighed anchor to do so, but were unable to enter on +account of the small amount of water, it being low tide, and were +accordingly obliged to anchor at the mouth. I went ashore, where I saw many +others, who received us very cordially. I made also an examination of the +river, but saw only an arm of water extending a short distance inland, +where the land is only in part cleared up. Running into this is merely a +brook not deep enough for boats except at full tide. The circuit of the bay +is about a league. On one side of the entrance to this bay there is a point +which is almost an island, covered with wood, principally pines, and +adjoins sand-banks, which are very extensive. On the other side, the land +is high. There are two islets in this bay, which are not seen until one +has entered, and around which it is almost entirely dry at low tide. This +place is very conspicuous from the sea, for the coast is very low, +excepting the cape at the entrance to the bay. We named it the Port du Cap +St. Louis, [163] distant two leagues from the above cape, and ten from the +Island Cape. It is in about the same latitude as Cap St. Louis. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +PORT ST. LOUIS. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. Indicates the place where vessels lie. +_B_. The channel. +_C_. Two islands. [Note: Clark's Island is now the sole representative of + the two figured by Champlain in 1605. The action of the waves has + either united the two, or swept one of them away. It was named after + Clark, the master's mate of the "May Flower," who was the first to + step on shore, when the party of Pilgrims, sent out from Cape Cod + Harbor to Select a habitation, landed on this island, and passed the + night of the 9th of December, O. S. 1620. _Vide_ Morton's Memorial, + 1669, Plymouth Ed. 1826. p. 35: Young's Chronicles, p. 160; Bradford's + His. Plym. Plantation, p. 87. This delineation removes all doubt as to + the missing island in Plymouth Harbor, and shows the incorrectness of + the theory as to its being Saquish Head, suggested in a note in + Young's Chronicles, p. 64. _Vide_ also Mourt's Relation, Dexter's ed., + note 197.] +_D_. Sandy downs. [Note: Saquish Neck] +_E_. Shoals. +_F_. Cabins where the savages till the ground. +_G_. Place where we beached our barque. +_H_. Land having the appearance of an island, covered with wood and + adjoining the sandy downs. [Note: Saquish Head, which seems to have + been somewhat changed since the time of Champlain. Compare Coast + Survey Chart of Plymouth Harbor, 1857.] +_I_. A high promontory which may be seen four or five leagues at + sea. [Note: Manomet Bluff.] + + * * * * * + +On the 19th of the month, we set out from this place. Coasting along in a +southerly direction, we sailed four or five leagues, and passed near a rock +on a level with the surface of the water. As we continued our course, we +saw some land which seemed to us to be islands, but as we came nearer we +found it to be the main land, lying to the north-north-west of us, and that +it was the cape of a large bay, [164] containing more than eighteen or +nineteen leagues in circuit, into which we had run so far that we had to +wear off on the other tack in order to double the cape which we had +seen. The latter we named Cap Blanc, [165] since it contained sands and +downs which had a white appearance. A favorable wind was of great +assistance to us here, for otherwise we should have been in danger of being +driven upon the coast. This bay is very safe, provided the land be not +approached nearer than a good league, there being no islands nor rocks +except that just mentioned, which is near a river that extends some +distance inland, which we named St. Suzanne du Cap Blanc, [166] whence +across to Cap St. Louis the distance is ten leagues. Cap Blanc is a point +of sand, which bends around towards the south some six leagues. This coast +is rather high, and consists of sand, which is very conspicuous as one +comes from the Sea. At a distance of some fifteen or eighteen leagues from +land, the depth of the water is thirty, forty, and fifty fathoms, but only +ten on nearing the shore, which is unobstructed. There is a large extent +of open country along the shore before reaching the woods, which are very +attractive and beautiful. We anchored off the coast, and saw some savages, +towards whom four of our company proceeded. Making their way upon a +sand-bank, they observed something like a bay, and cabins bordering it on +all sides. When they were about a league and a half from us, there came to +them a savage dancing all over, as they expressed it. He had come down from +the high shore, but turned about shortly after to inform his fellow +inhabitants of our arrival. + +The next day, the 20th of the month, we went to the place which our men had +seen, and which we found a very dangerous harbor in consequence of the +shoals and banks, where we saw breakers in all directions. It was almost +low tide when we entered, and there were only four feet of water in the +northern passage; at high tide, there are two fathoms. After we had +entered, we found the place very spacious, being perhaps three or four +leagues in circuit, entirely surrounded by little houses, around each one +of which there was as much land as the occupant needed for his support. A +small river enters here, which is very pretty, and in which at low tide +there are some three and a half feet of water. There are also two or three +brooks bordered by meadows. It would be a very fine place, if the harbor +were good. I took the altitude, and found the latitude 42°, and the +deflection of the magnetic needle 18° 40'. Many savages, men and women, +visited us, and ran up on all sides dancing. We named this place Port de +Mallebarre. [167] + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +MALLEBARRE. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. The two entrances to the harbor. +_B_. Sandy downs where the savages killed a sailor belonging to the barque + of Sieur de Monts. +_C_. Places in the harbor where the barque of Sieur de Monts was. +_D_. Spring on the shore of the harbor. +_E_. A river flowing into the harbor. +_F_. A brook. +_G_. A small river where quantities of fish are caught. +_H_. Sandy downs with low shrubs and many vines. +_I_. Island at the point of the downs. +_L_. Houses and dwelling-places of the savages that till the land. +_M_. Shoals and sand-banks at the entrance and inside of the harbor. +_O_. Sandy downs. +_P_. Sea-coast, +_q_. Barque of Sieur de Poutrincourt when he visited the place two years + after Sieur de Monts. +_R_. Landing of the party of Sieur de Poutrincourt. + +NOTES. A comparison of this map with the Coast Survey Charts will show very +great changes in this harbor since the days of Champlain. Not only has the +mouth of the bay receded towards the south, but this recession appears to +have left entirely dry much of the area which was flooded in 1605. Under +reference _q_, on the above map, it is intimated that De Poutrincourt's +visit was two years after that of De Monts. It was more than one, and was +the second year after, but not, strictly speaking, "two years after." + + * * * * * + +The next day, the 21st of the month, Sieur de Monts determined to go and +see their habitation. Nine or ten of us accompanied him with our arms; the +rest remained to guard the barque. We went about a league along the coast. +Before reaching their cabins, we entered a field planted with Indian corn +in the manner before described. The corn was in flower, and five and a half +feet high. There was some less advanced, which they plant later. We saw +many Brazilian beans, and many squashes of various sizes, very good for +eating; some tobacco, and roots which they cultivate, the latter having the +taste of an artichoke. The woods are filled with oaks, nut-trees, and +beautiful cypresses, [168] which are of a reddish color and have a very +pleasant odor. There were also several fields entirely uncultivated, the +land being allowed to remain fallow. When they wish to plant it, they set +fire to the weeds, and then work it over with their wooden spades. Their +cabins are round, and covered with heavy thatch made of reeds. In the roof +there is an opening of about a foot and a half, whence the smoke from the +fire passes out. We asked them if they had their permanent abode in this +place, and whether there was much snow. But we were unable to ascertain +this fully from them, not understanding their language, although they made +an attempt to inform us by signs, by taking some sand in their hands. +Spreading it out over the ground, and indicating that it was of the color +of our collars, and that it reached the depth of a foot. Others made signs +that there was less, and gave us to understand also that the harbor never +froze; but we were unable to ascertain whether the snow lasted long. I +conclude, however, that this region is of moderate temperature, and the +winter not severe. While we were there, there was a north-cast storm, which +lasted four days; the sky being so overcast that the sun hardly shone at +all. It was very cold, and we were obliged to put on our great-coats, which +we had entirely left off. Yet I think the cold was accidental, as it is +often experienced elsewhere out of season. + +On the 23d of July, four or five seamen having gone on shore with some +kettles to get fresh water, which was to be found in one of the sand-banks +a short distance from our barque, some of the savages, coveting them, +watched the time when our men went to the spring, and then seized one out +of the hands of a sailor, who was the first to dip, and who had no +weapons. One of his companions, starting to run after him, soon returned, +as he could not catch him, since he ran much faster than himself. The other +savages, of whom there were a large number, seeing our sailors running to +our barque, and at the same time shouting to us to fire at them, took to +flight. At the time there were some of them in our barque, who threw +themselves into the sea, only one of whom we were able to seize. Those on +the land who had taken to flight, seeing them swimming, returned straight +to the sailor from whom they had taken away the kettle, hurled several +arrows at him from behind, and brought him down. Seeing this, they ran at +once to him, and despatched him with their knives. Meanwhile, haste was +made to go on shore, and muskets were fired from our barque: mine, bursting +in my hands, came near killing me. The savages, hearing this discharge of +fire-arms, took to flight, and with redoubled speed when they saw that we +had landed, for they were afraid when they saw us running after them. There +was no likelihood of our catching them, for they are as swift as horses. +We brought in the murdered man, and he was buried some hours later. +Meanwhile, we kept the prisoner bound by the feet and hands on board of our +barque, fearing that he might escape. But Sieur de Monts resolved to let +him go, being persuaded that he was not to blame, and that he had no +previous knowledge of what had transpired, as also those who, at the time, +were in and about our barque. Some hours later there came some savages to +us, to excuse themselves, indicating by signs and demonstrations that it +was not they who had committed this malicious act, but others farther off +in the interior. We did not wish to harm them, although it was in our power +to avenge ourselves. + +All these savages from the Island Cape wear neither robes nor furs, except +very rarely: moreover, their robes are made of grasses and hemp, scarcely +covering the body, and coming down only to their thighs. They have only the +sexual parts concealed with a small piece of leather; so likewise the +women, with whom it comes down a little lower behind than with the men, all +the rest of the body being naked. Whenever the women came to see us, they +wore robes which were open in front. The men cut off the hair on the top of +the head like those at the river Choüacoet. I saw, among other things, a +girl with her hair very neatly dressed, with a skin colored red, and +bordered on the upper part with little shell-beads. A part of her hair +hung down behind, the rest being braided in various ways. These people +paint the face red, black, and yellow. They have scarcely any beard, and +tear it out as fast as it grows. Their bodies are well-proportioned. I +cannot tell what government they have, but I think that in this respect +they resemble their neighbors, who have none at all. They know not how to +worship or pray; yet, like the other savages, they have some superstitions, +which I shall describe in their place. As for weapons, they have only +pikes, clubs, bows and arrows. It would seem from their appearance that +they have a good disposition, better than those of the north, but they are +all in fact of no great worth. Even a slight intercourse with them gives +you at once a knowledge of them. They are great thieves and, if they cannot +lay hold of any thing with their hands, they try to do so with their feet, +as we have oftentimes learned by experience. I am of opinion that, if they +had any thing to exchange with us, they would not give themselves to +thieving. They bartered away to us their bows, arrows, and quivers, for +pins and buttons; and if they had had any thing else better they would have +done the same with it. It is necessary to be on one's guard against this +people, and live in a state of distrust of them, yet without letting them +perceive it. They gave us a large quantity of tobacco, which they dry and +then reduce to powder. [169] When they eat Indian corn, they boil it in +earthen pots, which they make in a way different from ours. [170]. They +bray it also in wooden mortars and reduce it to flour, of which they then +make cakes, like the Indians of Peru. + +In this place and along the whole coast from Quinibequy, there are a great +many _siguenocs_, [171] which is a fish with a shell on its back like the +tortoise, yet different, there being in the middle a row of little +prickles, of the color of a dead leaf, like the rest of the fish. At the +end of this shell, there is another still smaller, bordered by very sharp +points. The length of the tail-varies according to their size. With the end +of it, these people point their arrows, and it contains also a row of +prickles like the large shell in which are the eyes. There are eight small +feet like those of the crab, and two behind longer and flatter, which they +use in swimming. There are also in front two other very small ones with +which they eat. When walking, all the feet are concealed excepting the two +hindermost which are slightly visible. Under the small shell there are +membranes which swell up, and beat like the throat of a frog, and rest upon +each other like the folds of a waistcoat. The largest specimen of this fish +that I saw was a foot broad, and a foot and a half long. + +We saw also a sea-bird [172] with a black beak, the upper part slightly +aquiline, four inches long and in the form of a lancet; namely, the lower +part representing the handle and the upper the blade, which is thin, sharp +on both sides, and shorter by a third than the other, which circumference +is a matter of astonishment to many persons, who cannot comprehend how it +is possible for this bird to eat with such a beak. It is of the size of a +pigeon, the wings being very long in proportion to the body, the tail +short, as also the legs, which are red; the feet being small and flat. The +plumage on the upper part is gray-brown, and on the under part pure white. +They go always in flocks along the sea-shore, like the pigeons with us. + +The savages, along all these coasts where we have been, say that other +birds, which are very large, come along when their corn is ripe. They +imitated for us their cry, which resembles that of the turkey. They showed +us their feathers in several places, with which they feather their arrows, +and which they put on their heads for decoration; and also a kind of hair +which they have under the throat like those we have in France, and they say +that a red crest falls over upon the beak. According to their description, +they are as large as a bustard, which is a kind of goose, having the neck +longer and twice as large as those with us. All these indications led us to +conclude that they were turkeys. [173] We should have been very glad to +see some of these birds, as well as their feathers, for the sake of greater +certainty. Before seeing their feathers, and the little bunch of hair which +they have under the throat, and hearing their cry imitated, I should have +thought that they were certain birds like turkeys, which are found in some +places in Peru, along the sea-shore, eating carrion and other dead things +like crows. But these are not so large; nor do they have so long a bill, or +a cry like that of real turkeys; nor are they good to eat like those which +the Indians say come in flocks in summer, and at the beginning of winter go +away to warmer countries, their natural dwelling-place. + +ENDNOTES: + +160. It will be observed that, after doubling this cape, they sailed two + leagues, and then entered Plymouth Harbor, and consequently this cape + must have been what is now known as Brant Point. + +161. The latitude is 42° 5'. + +162. This was plainly our Indian hemp, _Asclepias incarnata_. "The fibres + of the bark are strong, and capable of being wrought into a fine soft + thread; but it is very difficult to separate the bark from the stalk. + It is said to have been used by the Indians for bow-strings."--_Vide + Cutler in Memoirs of the American Academy_, Vol. I. p. 424. It is the + Swamp Milkweed of Gray, and grows in wet grounds. One variety is + common in New England. The Pilgrims found at Plymouth "an excellent + strong kind of Flaxe and Hempe"--_Vide Mourt's Relation_, Dexter's + ed. p. 62. + +163. _Port du Cap St. Louis_. From the plain, the map in his edition of + 1613, drawing of this Harbor left by Champlain, and also that of the + edition of 1632, it is plain that the "Port du Cap St. Louis" is + Plymouth Harbor, where anchored the "Mayflower" a little more than + fifteen years later than this, freighted with the first permanent + English colony established in New England, commonly known as the + Pilgrims. The Indian name of the harbor, according to Captain John + Smith, who visited it in 1614. was Accomack. He gave it, by direction + of Prince Charles, the name of Plymouth. More recent investigations + point to this harbor as the one visited by Martin Pring in 1603.-- + _Vide Paper by the Rev Benj. F. De Costa, before the New England + His. Gen. Society_, Nov. 7, 1877, New England His. and Gen. Register, + Vol. XXXII. p. 79. + + The interview of the French with the natives was brief, but courteous + and friendly on both sides. The English visits were interrupted by + more or less hostility. "When Pring was about ready to leave, the + Indians became hostile and set the woods on fire, and he saw it burn + 'for a mile space.'"--_De Costa_. A skirmish of some seriousness + occurred with Smith's party. "After much kindnesse upon a small + occasion, wee fought also with fortie or fiftie of those: though some + were hurt, and some slaine, yet within an hour after they became + friends."--_Smith's New England_, Boston, ed. 1865, p. 45. + +164. Cape Cod Bay. + +165. They named it "le Cap Blanc," the White Cape, from its white + appearance, while Bartholomew Gosnold, three years before, had named + it Cape Cod from the multitude of codfish near its shores. Captain + John Smith called it Cape James. All the early navigators who passed + along our Atlantic coast seem to have seen the headland of Cape + Cod. It is well defined on Juan de la Cosa's map of 1500, although no + name is given to it. On Ribero's map of 1529 it is called _C. de + arenas_. On the map of Nic. Vallard de Dieppe of 1543, it is called + _C. de Croix_. + +166. Wellfleet Harbor. It may be observed that a little farther back + Champlain says that, having sailed along in a southerly direction four + or five leagues, they were at a place where there was a "rock on a + level with the surface of the water," and that they saw lying + north-north-west of them Cap Blanc, that is, Cape Cod; he now says + that the "rock" is near a river, which they named St. Suzanne du Cap + Blanc, and that from it to Cap St. Louis the distance is ten + leagues. Now, as the distance across to Brant Point, or Cap St. Louis, + from Wellfleet Harbor, is ten leagues, and as Cap Blanc or Cape Cod is + north-northwest of it, it is plain that Wellfleet Harbor or Herring + River, which flows into it, was the river which they named St. Suzanne + du Cap Blanc, and that the "rock on a level with the water" was one of + the several to be found near the entrance of Wellfleet Bay. It may + have been the noted Bay Rock or Blue Rock. + +167. _Port de Mallebarre_, Nauset Harbor, in latitude 41° 48'. By comparing + Champlain's map of the harbor, it will be seen that important changes + have taken place since 1605. The entrance has receded a mile or more + towards the south, and this has apparently changed its interior + channel, and the whole form of the bay. The name itself has drifted + away with the sands, and feebly clings to the extremity of Monomoy + Point at the heel of the Cape. + +168. Not strictly a cypress, but rather a juniper, the Savin, or red cedar, + _Juniparus Virginiana_, a tree of exclusively American origin; and + consequently it could not be truly characterized by any name then + known to Champlain. + +169. The method of preparing tobacco here for smoking was probably not + different from that of the Indian tribes in Canada. Among the Huron + antiquities in the Museum at the University Laval are pipes which were + found already filled with tobacco, so prepared as to resemble our + fine-cut tobacco.--_Vide Laverdière in loco_. + +170. The following description of the Indian pottery, and the method of its + manufacture by their women, as quoted by Laverdière from Sagard's + History of Canada, who wrote in 1636, will be interesting to the + antiquary, and will illustrate what Champlain means by "a way + different from ours:"-- + + "They are skilful in making good earthen pots, which they harden very + well on the hearth, and which are so strong that they do not, like our + own, break over the fire when having no water in them. But they cannot + sustain dampness nor cold water so long as our own, since they become + brittle and break at the least shock given them; otherwise they last + very well. The savages make them by taking some earth of the right + kind, which they clean and knead well in their hands, mixing with it, + on what principle I know not, a small quantity of grease. Then making + the mass into the shape of a ball, they make an indentation in the + middle of it with the fist, which they make continually larger by + striking repeatedly on the outside with a little wooden paddle as much + as is necessary to complete it. These vessels are of different sizes, + without feet or handles, completely round like a ball, excepting the + mouth, which projects a little." + +171. This crustacean, _Limulus polyphemus_, is still seen on the strands of + New England. They are found in great abundance in more southern + waters: on the shores of Long Island and New Jersey, they are + collected in boat-loads and made useful for fertilizing purposes. + Champlain has left a drawing of it on his large map. It is vulgarly + known as the king-crab, or horse-foot; to the latter it bears a + striking similarity. This very accurate description of Champlain was + copied by De Laet into his elaborate work "Novus Orbis," published in + 1633, accompanied by an excellent wood-engraving. This species is + peculiar to our Atlantic waters, and naturally at that time attracted + the attention of Europeans, who had not seen it before. + +172. The Black skimmer or Cut-water, _Rhynchops nigra_. It appears to be + distinct from, but closely related to, the Terns. This bird is here + described with general accuracy. According to Dr. Coues, it belongs + more particularly to the South Atlantic and Gulf States, where it is + very abundant; it is frequent in the Middle States, and only + occasionally seen in New England. The wings are exceedingly long; they + fly in close flocks, moving simultaneously. They seem to feed as they + skim low over the water, the under-mandible grazing or cutting the + surface, and thus taking in their food.--_Vide Coues's Key to North + American Birds_, Boston, 1872, p. 324. + + Whether Champlain saw this bird as a "stray" on the shores of Cape + Cod, or whether it has since ceased to come in large numbers as far + north as formerly, offers an interesting inquiry for the + ornithologists. Specimens may be seen in the Museum of the Boston + Society of Natural History. + +173. Champlain was clearly correct in his conclusion. The wild Turkey, + _Meleagris gallopavo_, was not uncommon in New England at that + period. Wood and Josselyn and Higginson, all speak of it fully:-- + + "Of these, sometimes there will be forty, threescore and a hundred of + a flocke; sometimes more, and sometimes lesse; their feeding is + Acornes, Hawes, and Berries; some of them get a haunt to frequent our + _English_ corne: In winter, when the snow covers the ground, they + resort to the Sea shore to look for Shrimps, and such small Fishes at + low tides. Such as love Turkie hunting, most follow it in winter after + a new-falne Snow, when hee may followe them by their tracts; some have + killed ten or a dozen in half a day; if they can be found towards an + evening and watched where they peirch, if one come about ten or eleven + of the clock, he may shoote as often as he will, they will sit, + unlesse they be slenderly wounded. These Turkies remaine all the yeare + long, the price of a good Turkey cocke is foure shillings; and he is + well worth it for he may be in weight forty pound: a Hen, two + shillings."--_Wood's New England Prospect_, 1634, Prince Society ed., + Boston, p. 32. + + "The _Turkie_, who is blacker than ours; I haue heard several credible + persons affirm, they haue seen _Turkie Cocks_ that have weighed forty, + yea sixty pound; but out of my personal experimental knowledge I can + assure you, that I haue eaten my share of a _Turkie Cock_, that when + he was pull'd and garbidg'd, weighed thirty [9] pound; and I haue also + seen threescore broods of young _Turkies_ on the side of a marsh, + sunning themselves in a morning betimes, but this was thirty years + since, the _English_ and the _Indians_ having now destroyed the breed, + so that 'tis very rare to meet with a wild _Turkie_ in the Woods: But + some of the _English_ bring up great store of the wild kind, which + remain about their Houses as tame as ours in _England_."--_New + England's Rarities_, by John Josselyn, Gent., London, 1672, + Tuckerman's ed., pp. 41, 42. + + "Here are likewise abundance of Turkies often killed in the Woods, + farre greater then our English Turkies, and exceeding fat, sweet, and + fleshy, for here they haue aboundance of feeding all the yeere long, + as Strawberriees, in Summer at places are full of them and all manner + of Berries and Fruits."--_New England Plantation_, by Francis + Higginson, London, 1630. _Vide_ also _Bradford's Hist. Plym. + Plantation_, 1646, Deane's ed., Boston, 1856. p. 105. + + It appears to be the opinion among recent ornithologists that the + species of turkey, thus early found in New England, was the _Meleagris + Americana_, long since extirpated, and not identical with our + domesticated bird. Our domestic turkey is supposed to have originated + in the West Indies or in Mexico, and to have been transplanted as + tamed to other parts of this continent, and to Europe, and named by + Linnaeus. _Meleagris gallopavo_.--_Vide Report on the Zoology of + Pacific Railroad Routes_, by Baird, Washington, 1858. Vol. IX. Part + II. pp. 613-618; _Coues's Key_, Boston, 1872, pp. 231, 232. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +RETURN FROM THE DISCOVERIES ALONG THE COAST OF THE ALMOUCHIQUOIS. + + +We had spent more than five weeks in going over three degrees of latitude, +and our voyage was limited to six, since we had not taken provisions for a +longer time. In consequence of fogs and storms, we had not been able to go +farther than Mallebarre, where we waited several days for fair weather, in +order to sail. Finding ourselves accordingly pressed by the scantiness of +provisions, Sieur de Monts determined to return to the Island of St. Croix, +in order to find another place more favorable for our settlement, as we had +not been able to do on any of the coasts which we had explored on this +voyage. + +Accordingly, on the 25th of July, we set out from this harbor, in order to +make observations elsewhere. In going out, we came near being lost on the +bar at the entrance, from the mistake of our pilots, Cramolet and +Champdoré, masters of the barque, who had imperfectly marked out the +entrance of the channel on the southern side, where we were to go. Having +escaped this danger, we headed north-east [174] for six leagues, until we +reached Cap Blanc, sailing on from there to Island Cape, a distance of +fifteen leagues, with the same wind. Then we headed east-north-east sixteen +leagues, as far as Choüacoet, where we saw the savage chief, Marchin, [175] +whom we had expected to see at the Lake Quinibequy. He had the reputation +of being one of the valiant ones of his people. He had a fine appearance: +all his motions were dignified, savage as he was. Sieur de Monts gave him +many presents, with which he was greatly pleased; and, in return, Marchin +gave him a young Etechemin boy, whom he had captured in war, and whom we +took away with us; and thus we set out, mutually good friends. We headed +north-east a quarter east for fifteen leagues, as far as Quinibequy, where +we arrived on the 29th of the month, and where we were expecting to find a +savage, named Sasinou, of whom I spoke before. Thinking that he would come, +we waited some time for him, in order to recover from him an Etechemin +young man and girl, whom he was holding as prisoners. While waiting, there +came to us a captain called Anassou, who trafficked a little in furs, and +with whom we made an alliance. He told us that there was a ship, ten +leagues off the harbor, which was engaged in fishing, and that those on her +had killed five savages of this river, under cover of friendship. From his +description of the men on the vessel, we concluded that they were English, +and we named the island where they were La Nef; [176] for, at a distance, +it had the appearance of a ship. Finding that the above-mentioned Sasinou +did not come, we headed east-south-east, [176-1/2] for twenty leagues, to +Isle Haute, where we anchored for the night. + +On the next day, the 1st of August, we sailed east some twenty leagues to +Cap Corneille, [177] where we spent the night. On the 2d of the month, we +sailed north-east seven leagues to the mouth of the river St. Croix, on the +western shore. Having anchored between the two first islands, [178] Sieur +de Monts embarked in a canoe, at a distance of six leagues from the +settlement of St. Croix, where we arrived the next day with our barque. We +found there Sieur des Antons of St. Malo, who had come in one of the +vessels of Sieur de Monts, to bring provisions and also other supplies for +those who were to winter in this country. + +ENDNOTES: + +174. Champlain is in error as to the longitude of Mallebarre, or Nauset + harbor, from which they took their departure on the 25th of July, + 1605. This port is about 38' east of Island Cape, or Cape Anne, and + about 16' east of the western point of Cap Blanc, or Cape Cod; and, to + reach their destination, they must have sailed north-west, and not + north-east, as he erroneously states. + +175. They had failed to meet him at the lake in the Kennebec; namely, + Merrymeeting Bay.--_Vide antea_, p. 60. + +176. The island which they thus named _La Nef_, the Ship, was Monhegan, + about twenty-five nautical miles east from the mouth of the Kennebec, + a mile and a third long, with an elevation at its highest point of a + hundred and forty feet above the level of the sea, and in latitude 43° + 45' 52". Champlain's conjecture as to the nationality of the ship was + correct. It was the "Archangel," commanded by the celebrated explorer, + Captain George Weymouth, who under the patronage of the Earl of + Southampton came to explore our Atlantic coast in the spring of 1605, + for the purpose of selecting a site for an English colony. He anchored + near Monhegan on the 28th of May, N. S.; and, after spending nearly a + month in reconnoitring the islands and mainland in the vicinity, and + capturing five of the natives, he took his departure for England on + the 26th of June. On the 5th of July, just 9 days after Weymouth left + the coast, De Monts and Champlain entered with their little barque the + mouth of the Kennebec. They do not appear to have seen at that time + any of the natives at or about the mouth of the river; and it is not + unlikely that, on account of the seizure and, as they supposed, the + murder of their comrades by Weymouth, they had retired farther up the + river for greater safety. On the return, however, of the French from + Cape Cod, on the 29th of July, Anassou gave them, as stated in the + text, a friendly reception, and related the story of the seizure of + his friends. + + To prevent the interference of other nations, it was the policy of + Weymouth and his patron not to disclose the locality of the region he + had explored; and consequently Rosier, the narrator of the voyage, so + skilfully withheld whatever might clearly identify the place, and + couched his descriptions in such indefinite language, that there has + been and is now a great diversity of opinion on the subject among + local historians. It was the opinion of the Rev. Thomas Prince that + Weymouth explored the Kennebec, or Sagadahoc, and with him coincide + Mr. John McKeen and the Rev. Dr. Ballard, of Brunswick. The + Rev. Dr. Belknap, after satisfactory examinations, decided that it was + the Penobscot; and he is followed by Mr. William Willis, late + President of the Maine Historical Society. Mr. George Prince, of Bath, + has published an elaborate paper to prove that it was St. George's + River; and Mr. David Cushman, of Warren, coincides in this view. Other + writers, not entering into the discussion at length, accept one or + another of the theories above mentioned. It does not fall within the + purview of our present purpose to enter upon the discussion of this + subject. But the statement in the text, not referred to by any of the + above-mentioned writers, "that those on her had killed five savages + _of this river," que ceux de dedans avoient tué cinq sauuages d'icelle + rivière_, can hardly fail to have weight in the decision of this + interesting question. + + The chief Anassou reported that they were "killed," a natural + inference under the circumstances; but in fact they were carefully + concealed in the hold of the ship, and three of them, having been + transported to England and introduced into his family, imparted much + important information to Sir Ferdinando Gorges, whose distinguished + career was afterward so intimately connected with the progress of + American colonization. For the discussion touching the river explored + by Weymouth, _vide Prince's Annals_, 1736, _in loco; Belknap's + American Biography_, 1794, Vol. II., art. Weymouth; _Remarks on the + Voyage of George Waymouth_, by John McKeen, Col. Me. His. Society, + Vol. V. p. 309; _Comments on Waymouth's Voyage_, by William Willis, + idem, p. 344; _Voyage of Captain George Weymouth_, by George Prince, + Col. Me. His. Soc., Vol. VI. p. 293; _Weymouth's Voyage_, by David + Cushman, _idem_, p. 369; _George Weymouth and the Kennebec_, by the + Rev. Edward Ballard, D. D., Memorial Volume of the Popham Celebration, + Portland, 1863, p. 301. + +176-1/2. _We headed east south-east_. It is possible that, on leaving the + mouth of the Kennebec, they sailed for a short distance to the + south-east; but the general course was to the north-east. + +177. _Cap Corneille_, or Crow Cape, was apparently the point of land + advancing out between Machias and Little Machias Bays, including + perhaps Cross Island. De Monts and his party probably anchored and + passed the night in Machias Bay. The position of Cap Corneille may be + satisfactorily fixed by its distance and direction from the Grand + Manan, as seen on Champlain's map of 1612, to which the reader is + referred. + +178. This anchorage was between Campobello and Moose Island, on which is + situated the town of Eastport. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +THE DWELLING-PLACE ON THE ISLAND OF ST. CROIX TRANSFERRED TO PORT ROYAL, +AND THE REASON WHY. + + +Sieur De Monts determined to change his location, and make another +settlement, in order to avoid the severe cold and the bad winter which we +had had in the Island of St. Croix. As we had not, up to that time, found +any suitable harbor, and, in view of the short time we had for building +houses in which to establish ourselves, we fitted out two barques, and +loaded them with the frame-work taken from the houses of St. Croix, in +order to transport it to Port Royal, twenty-five leagues distant, where we +thought the climate was much more temperate and agreeable. Pont Gravé and I +set out for that place; and, having arrived, we looked for a site favorable +for our residence, under shelter from the north-west wind, which we +dreaded, having been very much harassed by it. + +After searching carefully in all directions, we found no place more +suitable and better situated than one slightly elevated, about which there +are some marshes and good springs of water. This place is opposite the +island at the mouth of the river Equille. [179] To the north of us about a +league, there is a range of mountains, [180] extending nearly ten leagues +in a north-east and south-west direction. The whole country is filled with +thick forests, as I mentioned above, except at a point a league and a half +up the river, where there are some oaks, although scattering, and many wild +vines, which one could easily remove and put the soil under cultivation, +notwithstanding it is light and sandy. We had almost resolved to build +there; but the consideration that we should have been too far up the harbor +and river led us to change our mind. + +Recognizing accordingly the site of our habitation as a good one, we began +to clear up the ground, which was full of trees, and to erect houses as +soon as possible. Each one was busy in this work. After every thing had +been arranged, and the majority of the dwellings built, Sieur de Monts +determined to return to France, in order to petition his Majesty to grant +him all that might be necessary for his undertaking. He had desired to +leave Sieur d'Orville to command in this place in his absence. But the +climatic malady, _mal de la terre_, with which he was afflicted would not +allow him to gratify the wish of Sieur de Monts. On this account, a +conference was held with Pont Gravé on the subject, to whom this charge was +offered, which he was happy to accept; and he finished what little of the +habitation remained to be built. I, at the same time, hoping to have an +opportunity to make some new explorations towards Florida, determined to +stay there also, of which Sieur de Monts approved. + +ENDNOTES: + +179. In the original, Champlain has written the name of this river in this + particular instance _Guille_, probably an abbreviation for _Anguille_, + the French name of the fish which we call the eel. Lescarbot says the + "river was named _L'Equille_ because the first fish taken therein was + an _equille_."--Vide antea, note 57. + +180. The elevation of this range varies from six hundred to seven hundred + feet. + + + + +CHAPTER XI + +WHAT TOOK PLACE AFTER THE DEPARTURE OF SIEUR DE MONTS, UNTIL, NO TIDINGS OF +WHAT HE HAD PROMISED BEING RECEIVED, WE DEPARTED FROM PORT ROYAL TO RETURN +TO FRANCE. + + +As soon as Sieur de Monts had departed, a portion of the forty or +forty-five who remained began to make gardens. I, also, for the sake of +occupying my time, made one, which was surrounded with ditches full of +water, in which I placed some fine trout, and into which flowed three +brooks of very fine running water, from which the greater part of our +settlement was supplied. I made also a little sluice-way towards the shore, +in order to draw off the water when I wished. This spot was entirely +surrounded by meadows, where I constructed a summer-house, with some fine +trees, as a resort for enjoying the fresh air. I made there, also, a little +reservoir for holding salt-water fish, which we took out as we wanted them. +I took especial pleasure in it, and planted there some seeds which turned +out well. But much work had to be laid out in preparation. We resorted +often to this place as a pastime; and it seemed as if the little birds +round about took pleasure in it, for they gathered there in large numbers, +warbling and chirping so pleasantly that I think I never heard the like. + +The plan of the settlement was ten fathoms long and eight wide, making the +distance round thirty-six. On the eastern side is a store-house, occupying +the width of it, and a very fine cellar from five to six feet deep. On the +northern side are the quarters of Sieur de Monts, handsomely finished. +About the back yard are the dwellings of the workmen. At a corner of the +western side is a platform, where four cannon were placed; and at the other +corner, towards the east, is a palisade shaped like a platform, as can be +seen from the accompanying illustration. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +L'ABITASION DU PORT ROYAL. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. Dwelling of the artisans. +_B_. Platform where the cannon were placed. +_C_. The store-house. +_D_. Dwelling of Sieur de Pont Gravé and Champlain. +_E_. The blacksmith's shop. +_F_. Palisade of pickets. +_G_. The bakery. +_H_. The kitchen. +_O_. Small house where the equipment of our barques was stored. This Sieur + de Poutrincourt afterwards had rebuilt, and Sieur Boulay dwelt there + when Sieur de Pont Gravé returned to France. +_P_. Gate to our habitation. +_Q_. The Cemetery. +_R_. The River. + +NOTES. The habitation of Port Royal was on the present site of the hamlet +of Lower Granville in Nova Scotia. _I_. Points to the garden-plots. _K_. +Takes the place of _Q_, which is wanting on the map, and marks the place of +the cemetery, where may be seen the crucifix, the death's-head, and +cross-bones. _L_. Takes the place of _R_, which is wanting, to indicate the +river. _M_. Indicates the moat on the north side of the dwelling. _N_. +Probably indicates the dwelling of the gentlemen, De Monts and others. + + * * * * * + +Some days after the buildings were completed, I went to the river St. John +to find the savage named Secondon, the same that conducted Prevert's party +to the copper mine, which I had already gone in search of with Sieur de +Monts, when we were at the Port of Mines, though without success. [181] +Having found him, I begged him to go there with us, which he very readily +consented to do, and proceeded to show it to us. We found there some +little pieces of copper of the thickness of a sou, and others still thicker +imbedded in grayish and red rocks. The miner accompanying us, whose name +was Master Jacques, a native of Sclavonia, a man very skilful in searching +for minerals, made the entire circuit of the hills to see if he could find +any gangue, [182] but without success. Yet he found, some steps from where +we had taken the pieces of copper before mentioned, something like a mine, +which, however, was far from being one. He said that, from the appearance +of the soil, it might prove to be good, if it were worked; and that it was +not probable that there could be pure copper on the surface of the earth, +without there being a large quantity of it underneath. The truth is that, +if the water did not cover the mines twice a day, and if they did not lie +in such hard rocks, something might be expected from them. + +After making this observation, we returned to our settlement, where we +found some of our company sick with the _mal de la terre_, but not so +seriously as at the Island of St. Croix; although, out of our number of +forty-five, twelve died, including the miner, and five were sick, who +recovered the following spring. Our surgeon, named Des Champs, from +Honfleur, skilful in his profession, opened some of the bodies, to see +whether he might be more successful in discovering the cause of the +maladies that our surgeons had been the year before. He found the parts of +the body affected in the same manner as those opened at the Island of +St. Croix, but could discover no means of curing them, any more than the +other surgeons. + +On the 20th of December, it began to snow, and some ice passed along before +our Settlement. The winter was not so sharp as the year before, nor the +snow so deep, or of so long duration. Among other incidents, the wind was +so violent on the 20th of February, 1605, [183] that it blew over a large +number of trees, roots and all, and broke off many others. It was a +remarkable sight. The rains were very frequent; which was the cause of the +mild winter in comparison with the past one, although it is only +twenty-five leagues from Port Royal to St. Croix. + +On the first day of March, Pont Gravé ordered a barque of seventeen or +eighteen tons to be fitted up, which was ready, on the 15th, in order to go +on a voyage of discovery along the coast of Florida. [184] With this view, +we set out on the 16th following, but were obliged to put in at an island +to the south of Manan, having gone that day eighteen leagues. We anchored +in a sandy cove, exposed to the sea and the south wind. [185] The latter +increased, during the night, to such an impetuosity that we could not stand +by our anchor, and were compelled, without choice, to go ashore, at the +mercy of God and the waves. The latter were so heavy and furious that while +we were attaching the buoy to the anchor, so as to cut the cable at the +hawse-hole, it did not give us time, but broke straightway of itself. The +wind and the sea cast us as the wave receded upon a little rock, and we +awaited only the moment to see our barque break up, and to save ourselves, +if possible, upon its fragments. In these desperate straits, after we had +received several waves, there came one so large and fortunate for us that +it carried us over the rock, and threw us on to a little sandy beach, which +insured us for this time from shipwreck. + +The barque being on shore, we began at once to unload what there was in +her, in order to ascertain where the damage was, which was not so great as +we expected. She was speedily repaired by the diligence of Champdoré, her +master. Having been put in order, she was reloaded; and we waited for fair +weather and until the fury of the sea should abate, which was not until the +end of four days, namely, the 21st of March, when we set out from this +miserable place, and proceeded to Port aux Coquilles, [186] seven or eight +leagues distant. The latter is at the mouth of the river St. Croix, where +there was a large quantity of snow. We stayed there until the 29th of the +month, in consequence of the fogs and contrary winds, which are usual at +this season, when Pont Gravé determined to put back to Port Royal, to see +in what condition our companions were, whom we had left there sick. Having +arrived there, Pont Gravé was attacked with illness, which delayed us until +the 8th of April. + +On the 9th of the month he embarked, although still indisposed, from his +desire to see the coast of Florida, and in the belief that a change of air +would restore his health. The same day we anchored and passed the night at +the mouth of the harbor, two leagues distant from our settlement. + +The next morning before day, Champdoré came to ask Pont Gravé if he wished +to have the anchor raised, who replied in the affirmative, if he deemed the +weather favorable for setting out. Upon this, Champdoré had the anchor +raised at once, and the sail spread to the wind, which was +north-north-east, according to his report. The weather was thick and rainy, +and the air full of fog, with indications of foul rather than fair weather. + +While going out of the mouth of the harbor, [187] we were suddenly carried +by the tide out of the passage, and, before perceiving them, were driven +upon the rocks on the east-north-east coast. [188] Pont Gravé and I, who +were asleep, were awaked by hearing the sailors shouting and exclaiming, +"We are lost!" which brought me quickly to my feet, to see what was the +matter. Pont Gravé was still ill, which prevented him from rising as +quickly as he wished. I was scarcely on deck, when the barque was thrown +upon the coast; and the wind, which was north, drove us upon a point. We +unfurled the mainsail, turned it to the wind, and hauled it up as high as +we could, that it might drive us up as far as possible on the rocks, for +fear that the reflux of the sea, which fortunately was falling, would draw +us in, when it would have been impossible to save ourselves. At the first +blow of our boat upon the rocks, the rudder broke, a part of the keel and +three or four planks were smashed, and some ribs stove in, which frightened +us, for our barque filled immediately; and all that we could do was to wait +until the sea fell, so that we might get ashore. For, otherwise, we were in +danger of our lives, in consequence of the swell, which was very high and +furious about us. The sea having fallen, we went on shore amid the storm, +when the barque was speedily unloaded, and we saved a large portion of the +provisions in her, with the help of the savage, Captain Secondon and his +companions, who came to us with their canoes, to carry to our habitation +what we had saved from our barque, which, all shattered as she was, went to +pieces at the return of the tide. But we, most happy at having saved our +lives, returned to our settlement with our poor savages, who stayed there a +large part of the winter; and we praised God for having rescued us from +this shipwreck, from which we had not expected to escape so easily. + +The loss of our barque caused us great regret, since we found ourselves, +through want of a vessel, deprived of the prospect of being able to +accomplish the voyage we had undertaken. And we were unable to build +another; for time was pressing, and although there was another barque on +the stocks, yet it would have required too long to get it ready, and we +could scarcely have made use of it before the return from France of the +vessels we were daily expecting. + +This was a great misfortune, and owing to the lack of foresight on the part +of the master, who was obstinate, but little acquainted with seamanship, +and trusting only his own head. He was a good carpenter, skilful in +building vessels, and careful in provisioning them with all necessaries, +but in no wise adapted to sailing them. + +Pont Gravé, having arrived at the settlement, received the evidence against +Champdoré, who was accused of having run the barque on shore with evil +intent. Upon such information, he was imprisoned and handcuffed, with the +intention of taking him to France and handing him over to Sieur de Monts, +to be treated as justice might direct. + +On the 15th of June, Pont Gravé, finding that the vessels did not return +from France, had the handcuffs taken off from Champdoré, that he might +finish the barque which was on the stocks, which service he discharged very +well. + +On the 16th of July, the time when we were to leave, in case the vessels +had not returned, as was provided in the commission which Sieur de Monts +had given to Pont Gravé, we set out from our settlement to go to Cape +Breton or to Gaspé in search of means of returning to France, since we had +received no intelligence from there. + +Two of our men remained, of their own accord, to take care of the +provisions which were left at the settlement, to each of whom Pont Gravé +promised fifty crowns in money, and fifty more which he agreed to estimate +their pay at when he should come to get them the following year. [189] + +There was a captain of the savages named Mabretou, [190] who promised to +take care of them, and that they should be treated as kindly as his own +children. We found him a friendly savage all the time we were there, +although he had the name of being the worst and most traitorous man of his +tribe. + +ENDNOTES: + +181. _Vide antea_, pp. 25, 26. + +182. _La gangue_. This is the technical word for the matrix, or substance + containing the ore of metals. + +183. For 1605, read 1606. + +184. Florida, as then known, extended from the peninsula indefinitely to + the north. + +185. Seal Cove, which makes up between the south-west end of the Grand + Manan and Wood Island, the latter being South of Manan and is plainly + the island referred to in the text. This cove is open to the South + wind and the sea in a storm. Wood Island has a sandy shore with + occasional rocks. + +186. _Port aux Coquilles_, the harbor of shells. This port was near the + northeastern extremity of Campobello Island, and was probably Head + Harbor, which affords a good harbor of refuge.--_Vide_ Champlain's Map + of 1612, reference 9. + +187. By "harbor" is here meant Annapolis Bay. This wreck of the barque took + place on the Granville side of Digby Strait, where the tides rise from + twenty-three to twenty-seven feet. + +188. North-east. The text has _norouest_, clearly a misprint for _nordest_. + +189. These two men were M. La Taille and Miquelet, of whom Lescarbot speaks + in terms of enthusiastic praise for their patriotic courage in + voluntarily risking their lives for the good of New France. _Vide + Histoire Nouvelle France_, Paris, 1612, pp. 545, 546. + +190. _Mabretou_, by Lescarbot written Membertou. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +DEPARTURE FROM PORT ROYAL TO RETURN TO FRANCE.--MEETING RALLEAU AT CAPE +SABLE, WHICH CAUSED US TO TURN BACK. + + +On the 17th of the month, in accordance with the resolution we had formed, +we set out from the mouth of Port Royal with two barques, one of eighteen +tons, the other of seven or eight, with the view of pursuing the voyage to +Cape Breton or Canseau. We anchored in the strait of Long Island,[191] +where during the night our cable broke, and we came near being lost, owing +to the violent tides which strike upon several rocky points in and about +this place. But, through the diligent exertions of all, we were saved, and +escaped once more. + +On the 21st of the month there was a violent wind, which broke the irons of +our rudder between Long Island and Cape Fourchu, and reduced us to such +extremities that we were at a loss what to do. For the fury of the sea did +not permit us to land, since the breakers ran mountain high along the +coast, so that we resolved to perish in the sea rather than to land, hoping +that the wind and tempest would abate, so that, with the wind astern, we +might go ashore on some sandy beach. As each one thought by himself what +might be done for our preservation, a sailor said that a quantity of +cordage attached to the stern of our barque, and dragging in the water, +might serve in some measure to steer our vessel. But this was of no avail; +and we saw that, unless God should aid us by other means, this would not +preserve us from shipwreck. As we were thinking what could be done for our +safety, Champdoré, who had been again handcuffed, said to some of us that, +if Pont Gravé desired it, he would find means to steer our barque. This we +reported to Pont Gravé, who did not refuse this offer, and the rest of us +still less. He accordingly had his handcuffs taken off the second time, +and at once taking a rope, he cut it and fastened the rudder with it in +such a skilful manner that it would steer the ship as well as ever. In this +way, he made amends for the mistakes he had made leading to the loss of the +previous barque, and was discharged from his accusation through our +entreaties to Pont Gravé who, although somewhat reluctantly, acceded to it. + +The same day we anchored near La Baye Courante, [192] two leagues from Cape +Fourchu, and there our barque was repaired. + +On the 23d of July, we proceeded near to Cape Sable. + +On the 24th of the month, at two o'clock in the afternoon, we perceived a +shallop, near Cormorant Island, coming from Cape Sable. Some thought it was +savages going away from Cape Breton or the Island of Canseau. Others said +it might be shallops sent from Canseau to get news of us. Finally, as we +approached nearer, we saw that they were Frenchmen, which delighted us +greatly. When it had almost reached us, we recognized Ralleau, the +Secretary of Sieur de Monts, which redoubled our joy. He informed us that +Sieur de Monts had despatched a vessel of a hundred and twenty tons, +commanded by Sieur de Poutrincourt, who had come with fifty men to act as +Lieutenant-General, and live in the country; that he had landed at Canseau, +whence the above-mentioned vessel had gone out to sea, in order, if +possible, to find us, while he, meanwhile, was proceeding along the coast +in a shallop, in order to meet us in case we should have set out, supposing +we had departed from Port Royal, as was in fact the case: in so doing, they +acted very wisely. All this intelligence caused us to turn back; and we +arrived at Port Royal on the 25th of the month, where we found the +above-mentioned vessel and Sieur de Poutrincourt, and were greatly +delighted to see realized what we had given up in despair. [193] He told us +that his delay had been caused by an accident which happened to the ship in +leaving the boom at Rochelle, where he had taken his departure, and that he +had been hindered by bad weather on his voyage. [194] + +The next day, Sieur de Poutrincourt proceeded to set forth his views as to +what should be done; and, in accordance with the opinion of all, he +resolved to stay at Port Royal this year, inasmuch as no discovery had been +made since the departure of Sieur de Monts, and the period of four months +before winter was not long enough to search out a site and construct +another settlement, especially in a large vessel, unlike a barque which +draws little water, searches everywhere, and finds places to one's mind for +effecting settlements. But he decided that, during this period, nothing +more should be done than to try to find some place better adapted for our +abode. [195] + +Thus deciding, Sieur de Poutrincourt despatched at once some laborers to +work on the land in a spot which he deemed suitable, up the river, a league +and a half from the settlement of Port Royal, and where we had thought of +making our abode. Here he ordered wheat, rye, hemp, and several other kinds +of seeds to be sown, in order to ascertain how they would flourish. [196] + +On the 22d of August, a small barque was seen approaching our settlement. +It was that of Des Antons, of St. Malo, who had come from Canseau, where +his vessel was engaged in fishing, to inform us that there were some +vessels about Cape Breton engaged in the fur-trade; and that, if we would +send our ship, we might capture them on the point of returning to +France. It was determined to do so as soon as some supplies, which were in +the ship, could be unloaded. [197] + +This being done. Pont Gravé embarked, together with his companions, who had +wintered with him at Port Royal, excepting Champdoré and Foulgeré de Vitré. +I also stayed with De Poutrincourt, in order, with God's help, to complete +the map of the coasts and countries which I had commenced. Every thing +being put in order in the settlement. Sieur de Poutrincourt ordered +provisions to be taken on board for our voyage along the coast of Florida. + +On the 29th of August, we set out from Port Royal, as did also Pont Gravé +and Des Antons, who were bound for Cape Breton and Canseau, to seize the +vessels which were engaging in the fur-trade, as I have before stated. +After getting out to sea, we were obliged to put back on account of bad +weather. But the large vessel kept on her course, and we soon lost sight of +her. + +ENDNOTES: + +191. Petit Passage, leading into St. Mary's Bay. + +192. _La Baye Courante_, the bay at the mouth of Argyl or Abuptic River, + sometimes called Lobster Bay.--_Vide Campbell's Yarmouth County_. + N.S., p. 13. The anchorage for the repair of the barque near this bay, + two leagues from Cape Fourchu, was probably near Pinckney Point, or it + may have been under the lee of one of the Tusquet Islands. + +193. Lescarbot, who with De Poutrincourt was in this vessel, the "Jonas," + gives a very elaborate account of their arrival and reception at Port + Royal. It seems that, at Canseau, Poutrincourt, supposing that the + colony at Port Royal, not receiving expected succors, had possibly + already embarked for France, as was in fact the case, had despatched a + small boat in charge of Ralleau to reconnoitre the coast, with the + hope of meeting them, if they had already embarked. The "Jonas" passed + them unobserved, perhaps while they were repairing their barque at + Baye Courante. As Ralleau did not join the "Jonas" till after their + arrival at Port Royal, Poutrincourt did not hear of the departure of + the colony till his arrival. Champlain's dates do not agree with those + of Lescarbot, and the latter is probably correct. According to + Lescarbot, Poutrincourt arrived on the 27th, and Pont Gravé with + Champlain on the 31st of July. _Vide His. Nou. France_, Paris, 1612, + pp. 544, 547. + +194. Lescarbot gives a graphic account of the accident which happened to + their vessel in the harbor of Rochelle, delaying them more than a + month: and the bad weather and the bad seamanship of Captain Foulques, + who commanded the "Jonas," which kept them at sea more than two months + and a half.--_Vide His. Nou. France_, Paris. 1612, p. 523, _et seq._ + +195. Before leaving France, Poutrincourt had received instructions from the + patentee, De Monts to seek for a good harbor and more genial climate + for the colony farther south than Mallebarre, as he was not satisfied + either with St. Croix or Port Royal for a permanent abode.--_Vide + Lescarbot's His. Nou. France_, Paris, 1612, p. 552. + +196. By reference to Champlain's drawing of Port Royal, it will be seen + that the place of this agricultural experiment was on the southern + side of Annapolis River, near the mouth of Alien River, and on the + identical soil where the village of Annapolis now stands. + +197. It appears that this fur-trader was one Boyer, of Rouen, who had been + delivered from prison at Rochelle by Poutrincourt's lenity, where he + had been incarcerated probably for the same offence. They did not + succeed in capturing him at Canseau.--_Vide His. Nou. France_, par + Lescarbot, Paris, 1612, p. 553. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +SIEUR DE POUTRINCOURT SETS OUT FROM PORT ROYAL TO MAKE DISCOVERIES.--ALL +THAT WAS SEEN, AND WHAT TOOK PLACE AS FAR AS MALLEBARRE. + + +On the 5th of September, we set out again from Port Royal. + +On the 7th, we reached the mouth of the river St. Croix, where we found a +large number of savages, among others Secondon and Messamouët. We came +near being lost there on a rocky islet, on account of Champdoré's usual +obstinacy. + +The next day we proceeded in a shallop to the Island of St. Croix, where +Sieur de Monts had wintered, to see if we could find any spikes of wheat +and other seeds which we had planted there. We found some wheat which had +fallen on the ground, and come up as finely as one could wish; also a large +number of garden vegetables, which also had come up fair and large. It gave +us great satisfaction to see that the soil there was good and fertile. + +After visiting the island, we returned to our barque, which was one of +eighteen tons, on the way catching a large number of mackerel, which are +abundant there at this season. It was decided to continue the voyage along +the coast, which was not a very well-considered conclusion, since we lost +much time in passing over again the discoveries made by Sieur de Monts as +far as the harbor of Mallebarre. It would have been much better, in my +opinion, to cross from where we were directly to Mallebarre, the route +being already known, and then use our time in exploring as far as the +fortieth degree, or still farther south, revisiting, upon our homeward +voyage, the entire coast at pleasure. + +After this decision, we took with us Secondon and Messamouët, who went as +far as Choüacoet in a shallop, where they wished to make an alliance with +the people of the country, by offering them some presents. + +On the 12th of September, we set out from the river St. Croix. + +On the 21st, we arrived at Choüacoet, where we saw Onemechin, chief of the +river, and Marchin, who had harvested their corn. We saw at the Island of +Bacchus [198] some grapes which were ripe and very good, and some others +not yet ripe, as fine as those in France; and I am sure that, if they were +cultivated, they would produce good wine. + +In this place. Sieur de Poutrincourt secured a prisoner that Onemechin had, +to whom Messamouët [199] made presents of kettles, hatchets, knives, and +other things. Onemechin reciprocated the same with Indian corn, squashes, +and Brazilian beans; which was not very satisfactory to Messamouët, who +went away very ill-disposed towards them for not properly recognizing his +presents, and with the intention of making war upon them in a short time. +For these nations give only in exchange for something in return, except to +those who have done them a special service, as by assisting them in their +wars. + +Continuing our course, we proceeded to the Island Cape, [200] where we +encountered rather bad weather and fogs, and saw little prospect of being +able to spend the night under shelter, since the locality was not favorable +for this. While we were thus in perplexity, it occurred to me that, while +coasting along with Sieur de Monts, I had noted on my map, at a distance of +a league from here, a place which seemed suitable for vessels, but which we +did not enter, because, when we passed it, the wind was favorable for +continuing on our course. This place we had already passed, which led me +to suggest to Sieur de Poutrincourt that we should stand in for a point in +sight, where the place in question was, which seemed to me favorable for +passing the night. We proceeded to anchor at the mouth, and went in the +next day. [201] + +Sieur de Poutrincourt landed with eight or ten of our company. We saw some +very fine grapes just ripe, Brazilian peas, [202] pumpkins, squashes, and +very good roots, which the savages cultivate, having a taste similar to +that of chards. [203] They made us presents of some of these, in exchange +for little trifles which we gave them. They had already finished their +harvest. We saw two hundred savages in this very pleasant place; and there +are here a large number [204] of very fine walnut-trees, [205] cypresses, +sassafras, oaks, ashes, and beeches. The chief of this place is named +Quiouhamenec, who came to see us with a neighbor of his, named Cohoüepech, +whom we entertained sumptuously. Onemechin, chief of Choüacoet, came also +to see us, to whom we gave a coat, which he, however, did not keep a long +time, but made a present of it to another, since he was uneasy in it, and +could not adapt himself to it. We saw also a savage here, who had so +wounded himself in the foot, and lost so much blood, that he fell down in a +swoon. Many others surrounded him, and sang some time before touching him. +Afterwards, they made some motions with their feet and hands, shook his +head and breathed upon him, when he came to himself. Our surgeon dressed +his wounds, when he went off in good spirits. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +LE BEAU PORT. [Note: _Le Beau Port_ is Gloucester.] + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. Place where our barque was. +_B_. Meadows. +_C_. Small island. [Note: Ten-Pound Island. It is forty rods long and + thirty feet high. On it is a U. S. Light, fifty feet above the + sea-level.] +_D_. Rocky cape. + +_E_. Place where we had our shallop calked. [Note: This peninsula is now + called Rocky Neck. Its southern part and the causeway which connects + it with the main land are now thickly settled.] +_F_. Little rocky islet, very high on the coast. [Note: This is Salt + Island.] +_G_. Cabins of the savages and where they till the soil. +_H_. Little river where there are meadows. [Note: This is the small stream + that flows into Fresh-Water Cove.] +_I_. Brook. +_L_. Tongue of land covered with trees, including a large number of + sassafras, walnut-trees, and vines. [Note: This is now called Eastern + Point, is three quarters of a mile long, and about half a mile in its + greatest width. At its southern extremity is a U. S. Light, sixty feet + above the sea-level. The scattering rocks figured by Champlain on its + western shore are now known as Black Bess.] +_M_. Arm of the sea on the other side of the Island Cape. [Note: Squam + River, flowing into Annisquam Harbor.] +_N_. Little River. +_O_. Little brook coming from the meadows. +_P_. Another little brook where we did our washing. +_Q_. Troop of savages coming to surprise us. [Note: They were creeping + along the eastern bank of Smith's Cove.] +_R_. Sandy strand. [Note: The beach of South-East Harbor.] +_S_. Sea-coast. +_T_. Sieur de Poutrincourt in ambuscade with some seven or eight + arquebusiers. +_V_. Sieur de Champlain discovering the savages. + +NOTES: A comparison of his map with the Coast Survey Charts will exhibit +its surprising accuracy, especially when we make allowance for the fact +that it is merely a sketch executed without measurements, and with a very +brief visit to the locality. The projection or cape west of Ten-Pound +Island, including Stage Head, may be easily identified, as likewise Fort +Point directly north of the same island, as seen on our maps, but +north-west on that of Champlain, showing that his map is oriented with an +inclination to the west. The most obvious defect is the foreshortening of +the Inner Harbor, which requires much greater elongation. + + * * * * * + +The next day, as we were calking our shallop, Sieur de Poutrincourt in the +woods noticed a number of savages who were going, with the intention of +doing us some mischief, to a little stream, where a neck connects with the +main land, at which our party were doing their washing. As I was walking +along this neck, these savages noticed me; and, in order to put a good face +upon it, since they saw that I had discovered them thus seasonably, they +began to shout and dance, and then came towards me with their bows, arrows, +quivers, and other arms. And, inasmuch as there was a meadow between them +and myself, I made a sign to them to dance again. This they did in a +circle, putting all their arms in the middle. But they had hardly +commenced, when they observed Sieur de Poutrincourt in the wood with eight +musketeers, which frightened them. Yet they did not stop until they had +finished their dance, when they withdrew in all directions, fearing lest +some unpleasant turn might be served them. We said nothing to them, +however, and showed them only demonstrations of gladness. Then we returned +to launch our shallop, and take our departure. They entreated us to wait a +day, saying that more than two thousand of them would come to see us. But, +unable to lose any time, we were unwilling to stay here longer. I am of +opinion that their object was to surprise us. Some of the land was already +cleared up, and they were constantly making clearings. Their mode of doing +it is as follows: after cutting down the trees at the distance of three +feet from the ground, they burn the branches upon the trunk, and then plant +their corn between these stumps, in course of time tearing up also the +roots. There are likewise fine meadows here, capable of supporting a large +number of cattle. This harbor is very fine, containing water enough for +vessels, and affording a shelter from the weather behind the islands. It is +in latitude 43°, and we gave it the name of Le Beauport. [206] + +The last day of September we set out from Beauport, and, passing Cap +St. Louis, stood on our course all night for Cap Blanc. [207] In the +morning, an hour before daylight we found ourselves to the leeward of Cap +Blanc, in Baye Blanche, with eight feet of water, and at a distance of a +league from the shore. Here we anchored, in order not to approach too near +before daylight, and to see how the tide was. Meanwhile, we sent our +shallop to make soundings. Only eight feet of water were found, so that it +was necessary to determine before daylight what we would do. The water sank +as low as five feet, and our barque sometimes touched on the sand, yet +without any injury, for the water was calm, and we had not less than three +feet of water under us. Then the tide began to rise, which gave us +encouragement. + +When it was day, we saw a very low, sandy shore, off which we were, and +more to the leeward. A shallop was sent to make soundings in the direction +of land somewhat high, where we thought there would be deep water; and, in +fact, we found seven fathoms. Here we anchored, and at once got ready the +shallop, with nine or ten men to land and examine a place where we thought +there was a good harbor to shelter ourselves in, if the wind should +increase. An examination having been made, we entered in two, three, and +four fathoms of water. When we were inside, we found five and six. There +were many very good oysters here, which we had not seen before, and we +named the place Port aux Huistres. [208] It is in latitude 42°. Three +canoes of savages came out to us. On this day, the wind coming round in our +favor, we weighed anchor to go to Cap Blanc, distant from here five leagues +north a quarter north-east, and we doubled the cape. + +On the next day, the 2d of October, we arrived off Mallebarre, [209] where +we stayed some time on account of the bad weather. During this time, Sieur +de Poutrincourt, with the shallop, accompanied by twelve or fifteen men, +visited the harbor, where some hundred and fifty savages, singing and +dancing according to their custom, appeared before him. After seeing this +place, we returned to our vessel, and, the wind coming favorable, sailed +along the coast towards the south. + +ENDNOTES: + +198. Richmond Island.--_Vide antea_, note 123. The ripe grapes which he saw + were the Fox Grape. _Vitis labrusca_, which ripens in September. The + fruit is of a dark purple color, tough and musky. The Isabella, common + in our markets, is derived from it. It is not quite clear whether + those seen in an unripe state were another species or not. If they + were, they were the Frost Grape, _Vitis cardifolia_, which are found + in the northern parts of New England. The berry is small, black or + blue, having a bloom, highly acid, and ripens after frosts. This + island, so prolific in grapes, became afterward a centre of commercial + importance. On Josselyn's voyage of 1638, he says: "The Six and + twentieth day, Capt. _Thomas Cammock_ went aboard of a Barke of 300 + Tuns, laden with Island Wine, and but 7 men in her, and never a Gun, + bound for Richmond's Island, Set out by Mr. _Trelaney, of Plimouth_"-- + _Voyages_, 1675, Boston, Veazie's ed., 1865, p. 12. + +199. Messamouët was a chief from the Port de la Hève, and was accompanied + by Secondon, also a chief from the river St. John. They had come to + Saco to dispose of a quantity of goods which they had obtained from + the French fur-traders. Messamouët made an address on the occasion, in + which he stated that he had been in France, and had been entertained + at the house of Mons. de Grandmont, governor of Bavonne.--_Vide + His. Nou. France_, par Lescarbot, Paris, 1612, p. 559, _et seq._ + +200. Cape Anne. + +201. Gloucester Bay, formerly called Cape Anne Harbor, which, as we shall + see farther on, they named _Beauport_, the beautiful harbor. + +202. Brazilian peas. This should undoubtedly read Brazilian beans. _Pois du + Brésil_ is here used apparently by mistake for _febues de Brésil_.-- + Vide antea, note 127. + +203. Chards, a vegetable dill, composed of the footstocks and midrib of + artichokes, cardoons, or white beets. The "very good roots," _des + racines qui font bonnes_, were Jerusalem Artichokes, _Helianthus + tuberofus_, indigenous to the northern part of this continent. The + Italians had obtained it before Champlain's time, and named it + _Girasole_, their word for sunflower, of which the artichoke is a + species. This word, _girasole_, has been singularly corrupted in + England into _Jerusalem_; hence Jerusalem artichoke, now the common + name of this plant. We presume that there is no instance on record of + its earlier cultivation in New England than at Nauset in 1605, _vide + antea_, p. 82, and here at Gloucester in 1606. + +204. Under the word _noyers_, walnut-trees, Champlain may have comprehended + the hickories, _Carya alba_ and _porcina_, and perhaps the butternut, + _Juglans cinerea_, all of which might have been seen at Gloucester. It + is clear from his description that he saw at Saco the hickory, _Carya + porcina_, commonly known as the pig-nut or broom hickory. He probably + saw likewise the shag bark, _Carya alba_, as both are found growing + wild there even at the present day.--_Vide antea_, p. 67. Both the + butternut and the hickories are exclusively of American origin; and + there was no French name by which they could be more accurately + designated. _Noyer_ is applied in France to the tree which produces + the nut known in our markets as the English walnut. Josselyn figures + the hickory under the name of walnut.--_Vide New Eng. Rarities_, + Tuckerman's ed., p. 97. See also _Wood's New Eng. Prospect_, 1634, + Prince Soc. ed., p. 18. + +205. The trees here mentioned are such probably as appeared to Champlain + especially valuable for timber or other practical uses. + + The cypress, _cyprès_, has been already referred to in note 168. It is + distinguished for its durability, its power of resisting the usual + agencies of decay, and is widely used for posts, and sleepers on the + track of railways, and to a limited extent for cabinet work, but less + now than in earlier times. William Wood says of it: "This wood is more + desired for ornament than substance, being of color red and white, + like Eugh, smelling as sweet as Iuniper; it is commonly used for + seeling of houses, and making of Chests, boxes and staves."--_Wood's + New Eng. Prospect_, 1634, Prince Soc. ed., p. 19. + + The sassafras, _Sassafras officinate_, is indigenous to this + continent, and has a spicy, aromatic flavor, especially the bark and + root. It was in great repute as a medicine for a long time after the + discovery of this country. Cargoes of it were often taken home by the + early voyagers for the European markets; and it is said to have sold + as high as fifty livres per pound. Dr. Jacob Bigelow says a work + entitled "Sassafrasologia" was written to celebrate its virtues; but + its properties are only those of warm aromatics. Josselyn describes + it, and adds that it does not "grow beyond Black Point eastward," + which is a few miles north-east of Old Orchard Beach, near Saco, in + Maine. It is met with now infrequently in New England; several + specimens, however, may be seen in the Granary Burial Ground in + Boston. + + Oaks, _chesnes_, of which several of the larger species may have been + seen: as, the white oak, _Quercus alba_; black oak, _Quercus + tinfloria_; Scarlet oak, _Quercus coccinea_; and red oak, _Quercus + rubra_. + + Ash-trees, _fresnes_, probably the white ash, _Fraxinus Americana_, + and not unlikely the black ash, _Fraxinus sambucifolia_, both valuable + as timber. + + Beech-trees, _hestres_, of which there is but a single Species, _Fagus + ferruginca_, the American beech, a handsome tree, of symmetrical + growth, and clean, smooth, ash-gray bark: the nut, of triangular + shape, is sweet and palatable. The wood is brittle, and used only for + a few purposes. + +206. Le Beauport. The latitude of Ten-Pound Island, near where the French + barque was anchored in the Harbor of Gloucester, is 42° 36' 5". + +207. The reader may be reminded that Cap St. Louis is Brant Point; Cap + Blanc is Cape Cod; and Baye Blanche is Cape Cod Bay. + +208. _Le Port aux Huistres_, Oyster Harbor. The reader will observe, by + looking back a few sentences in the narrative, that the French + coasters, after leaving Cap St. Louis, that is, Brant Point, had aimed + to double Cape Cod, and had directed their course, as they supposed, + to accomplish this purpose. Owing, however, to the strength of the + wind, or the darkness of the night, or the inattention of their pilot, + or all these together, they had passed to the leeward of the point + aimed at, and before morning found themselves near a harbor, which + they subsequently entered, in Cape Cod Bay. It is plain that this + port, which they named Oyster Harbor, was either that of Wellfleet or + Barnstable. The former, it will be remembered, Champlain, with De + Monts, entered the preceding year, 1605, and named it, or the river + that flows into it, St. Suzanne du Cap Blanc.--_Vide antea_, note + 166. It is obvious that Champlain could not have entered this harbor + the second time without recognizing it: and, if he had done so, he + would not have given to it a name entirely different from that which + he had given it the year before. He was too careful an observer to + fall into such an extraordinary mistake. We may conclude, therefore, + that the port in question was not Wellfleet, but Barnstable. This + conclusion is sustained by the conditions mentioned in the text. They + entered, on a flood-tide, in twelve, eighteen, and twenty-four feet of + water, and found thirty or thirty-six when they had passed into the + harbor. It could hardly be expected that any harbor among the shifting + sands of Cape Cod would remain precisely the same, as to depth of + water, after the lapse of two hundred and fifty years. Nevertheless, + the discrepancy is so slight in this case, that it would seem to be + accidental, rather than to arise from the solidity or fixedness of the + harbor-bed. The channel of Barnstable Harbor, according to the Coast + Survey Charts, varies in depth at low tide, for two miles outside of + Sandy Neck Point, from seven to ten feet for the first mile, and for + the next mile from ten feet to thirty-two on reaching Beach Point, + which may be considered the entrance of the bay. On passing the Point, + we have thirty-six and a half feet, and for a mile inward the depth + varies from twelve to twenty feet. Add a few feet for the rise of the + tide on which they entered, and the depth of the water in 1606 could + not have been very different from that of to-day. The "low sandy + coast" which they saw is well represented by Spring Hill Beach and + Sandy Neck; the "land somewhat high," by the range of hills in the + rear of Barnstable Harbor. The distance from the mouth of the harbor + to Wood End light, the nearest point on Cape Cod, does not vary more + than a league, and its direction is about that mentioned by + Champlain. The difference in latitude is not greater than usual. It is + never sufficiently exact for the identification of any locality. The + substantial agreement, in so many particulars with the narrative of + the author, renders it quite clear that the _Port aux Huistres_ was + Barnstable Harbor. They entered it on the morning of the 1st of + October, and appear to have left on the same day. Sandy Neck light, at + the entrance of the harbor, is in latitude 41° 43' 19". + +209. Nauset Harbor. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +CONTINUATION OF THE ABOVE DISCOVERIES, AND WHAT WAS OBSERVED OF PARTICULAR +IMPORTANCE. + + +When we were some six leagues from Mallebarre, we anchored near the coast, +the wind not being fair, along which we observed columns of smoke made by +the savages, which led us to determine to go to them, for which purpose the +shallop was made ready. But when near the coast, which is sandy, we could +not land, for the swell was too great. Seeing this, the savages launched a +canoe, and came out to us, eight or nine of them, singing and making signs +of their joy at seeing us, and they indicated to us that lower down there +was a harbor where we could put our barque in a place of security. Unable +to land, the shallop came back to the barque; and the savages, whom we had +treated civilly, returned to the shore. + +On the next day, the wind being favorable, we continued our course to the +north [210] five leagues, and hardly had we gone this distance, when we +found three and four fathoms of water at a distance of a league and a half +from the shore. On going a little farther, the depth suddenly diminished +to a fathom and a half and two fathoms, which alarmed us, since we saw the +sea breaking all around, but no passage by which we could retrace our +course, for the wind was directly contrary. + +Accordingly being shut in among the breakers and sand-banks, we had to go +at hap-hazard where there seemed to be the most water for our barque, which +was at most only four feet: we continued among these breakers until we +found as much as four feet and a half. Finally, we succeeded, by the grace +of God, in going over a sandy point running out nearly three leagues +seaward to the south-south-east, and a very dangerous place. [211] Doubling +this cape, which we named Cap Batturier, [212] which is twelve or thirteen +leagues from Mallebarre, [213] we anchored in two and a half fathoms of +water, since we saw ourselves surrounded on all sides by breakers and +shoals, except in some places where the sea was breaking to go to a place, +which, we concluded to be that which the savages had indicated. We also +thought there was a river there, where we could lie in security. + +When our shallop arrived there, our party landed and examined the place, +and, returning with a savage whom they brought off, they told us that we +could enter at full tide, which was resolved upon. We immediately weighed +anchor, and, under the guidance of the savage who piloted us, proceeded to +anchor at a roadstead before the harbor, in six fathoms of water and a good +bottom; [214] for we could not enter, as the night overtook us. + +On the next day, men were sent to set stakes at the end of a sand-bank +[215] at the mouth of the harbor, when, the tide rising, we entered in two +fathoms of water. When we had arrived, we praised God for being in a place +of safety. Our rudder had broken, which we had mended with ropes; but we +were afraid that, amid these shallows and strong tides, it would break +anew, and we should be lost. Within this harbor [216] there is only a +fathom of water, and two at full tide. On the east, there is a bay +extending back on the north some three leagues, [217] in which there is an +island and two other little bays which adorn the landscape, where there is +a considerable quantity of land cleared up, and many little hills, where +they cultivate corn and the various grains on which they live. There are, +also, very fine vines, many walnut-trees, oaks, cypresses, but only a few +pines. [218] All the inhabitants of this place are very fond of +agriculture, and provide themselves with Indian corn for the winter, which +they store in the following manner:-- + +They make trenches in the sand on the slope of the hills, some five to six +feet deep, more or less. Putting their corn and other grains into large +grass sacks, they throw them into these trenches, and cover them with sand +three or four feet above the surface of the earth, taking it out as their +needs require. In this way, it is preserved as well as it would be possible +to do in our granaries. [219] + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +_PORT FORTUNÉ_. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. Pond of salt water. [Note: This is now called Oyster Pond.] +_B_. Cabins of the savages and the lands they cultivate. +_C_. Meadows where there are two little brooks. +_C_. Meadows on the island, that are covered at every tide. [Note: The + letter _C_ appears twice in the index, but both are wanting on the + map. The former seems to point to the meadows on the upper left-hand + corner: the other should probably take the place of the _O_ on the + western part of the island above _F_.] +_D_. Small mountain ranges on the island, that are covered with trees, + vines, and plum-trees. [Note: This range of hills is a marked feature + of the island.] +_E_. Pond of fresh water, where there is plenty of game. [Note: This pond + is still distinguished for its game, and is leased by gentlemen in + Boston and held as a preserve.] +_F_. A kind of meadow on the island. [Note: This is known as Morris Island; + but the strait on the north of it has been filled up, and the island + is now a part of the main land.] +_G_. An island covered with wood in a great arm of the sea. [Note: This + island has been entirely obliterated, and the neck on the north has + likewise been swept away, and the bay now extends several leagues + farther north. The destruction of the island was completed in 1851, in + the gale that swept away Minot's Light. In 1847, it had an area of + thirteen acres and an elevation of twenty feet.--_Vide Harbor + Com. Report_, 1873.] +_H_. A sort of pond of salt water, where there are many shell-fish, and, + among others, quantities of oysters. [Note: This is now called the + Mill Pond.] +_I_. Sandy downs on a narrow tongue of land. +_L_. Arm of the sea. +_M_. Roadstead before the harbor where we anchored. [Note: Chatham Roads, + or Old Stage Harbor.] +_N_. Entrance to the harbor. +_O_. The harbor and place where our barque was. +_P_. The cross we planted. +_Q_. Little brook. +_R_. Mountain which is seen at a great distance. [Note: A moderate + elevation, by no means a mountain in our sense of the word.] +_S_. Sea-shore. +_T_. Little river. +_V_. Way we went in their country among their dwellings: it is indicated by + small dots. [Note: The circuit here indicated is about four or five + miles. Another path is indicated in the same manner on the extreme + northern end of the map, which shows that their excursions had been + extensive.] +_X_. Banks and shoals. +_Y_. Small mountain seen in the interior. [Note: This is now called the + Great Chatham Hill, and is a conspicuous landmark.] +_Z_. Small brooks. +_9_. Spot near the cross where the savages killed our men. [Note: This is a + creek up which the tide sets. The other brook figured on the map a + little south of the cross has been artificially filled up, but the + marshes which it drained are still to be seen. These landmarks enable + us to fix upon the locality of the cross within a few feet.] + + * * * * * + +We saw in this place some five to six hundred savages, all naked except +their sexual parts, which they cover with a small piece of doe or +seal-skin. The women are also naked, and, like the men, cover theirs with +skins or leaves. They wear their hair carefully combed and twisted in +various ways, both men and women, after the manner of the savages of +Choüacoet. [220] Their bodies are well-proportioned, and their skin +olive-colored. They adorn themselves with feathers, beads of shell, and +other gewgaws, which they arrange very neatly in embroidery work. As +weapons, they have bows, arrows, and clubs. They are not so much great +hunters as good fishermen and tillers of the land. + +In regard to their police, government, and belief, we have been unable to +form a judgment; but I suppose that they are not different in this respect +from our savages, the Souriquois and Canadians, who worship neither the +moon nor the sun, nor any thing else, and pray no more than the beasts. +[221] There are, however, among them some persons, who, as they say, are in +concert with the devil, in whom they have great faith. They tell them all +that is to happen to them, but in so doing lie for the most part. Sometimes +they succeed in hitting the mark very well, and tell them things similar to +those which actually happen to them. For this reason, they have faith in +them, as if they were prophets; while they are only impostors who delude +them, as the Egyptians and Bohemians do the simple villagers. They have +chiefs, whom they obey in matters of war, but not otherwise, and who engage +in labor, and hold no higher rank than their companions. Each one has only +so much land as he needs for his support. + +Their dwellings are separate from each other, according to the land which +each one occupies. They are large, of a circular shape, and covered with +thatch made of grasses or the husks of Indian corn. [222] They are +furnished only with a bed or two, raised a foot from the ground, made of a +number of little pieces of wood pressed against each other, on which they +arrange a reed mat, after the Spanish style, which is a kind of matting two +or three fingers thick: on these they sleep. [223] They have a great many +fleas in summer, even in the fields. One day as we went out walking, we +were beset by so many of them that we were obliged to change our clothes. + +All the harbors, bays, and coasts from Choüacoet are filled with every +variety of fish, like those which we have before our habitation, and in +such abundance that I can confidently assert that there was not a day or +night when we did not see and hear pass by our barque more than a thousand +porpoises, which were chasing the smaller fry. There are also many +shell-fish of various sorts, principally oysters. Game birds are very +plenty. + +It would be an excellent place to erect buildings and lay the foundations +of a State, if the harbor were somewhat deeper and the entrance safer. +Before leaving the harbor, the rudder was repaired; and we had some bread +made from flour, which we had brought for our subsistence, in case our +biscuit should give out. Meanwhile, we sent the shallop with five or six +men and a savage to see whether a passage might be found more favorable for +our departure than that by which we had entered. + +After they had gone five or six leagues and were near the land, the savage +made his escape [224], since he was afraid of being taken to other savages +farther south, the enemies of his tribe, as he gave those to understand who +were in the shallop. The latter, upon their return, reported that, as far +as they had advanced, there were at least three fathoms of water, and that +farther on there were neither shallows nor reefs. + +We accordingly made haste to repair our barque, and make a supply of bread +for fifteen days. Meanwhile, Sieur de Poutrincourt, accompanied by ten or +twelve arquebusiers, visited all the neighboring country, which is very +fine, as I have said before, and where we saw here and there a large number +of little houses. + +Some eight or nine days after, while Sieur de Poutrincourt was walking out, +as he had previously done, [225] we observed the savages taking down their +cabins and sending their women, children, provisions, and other necessaries +of life into the woods. This made us suspect some evil intention, and that +they purposed to attack those of our company who were working on shore, +where they stayed at night in order to guard that which could not be +embarked at evening except with much trouble. This proved to be true; for +they determined among themselves, after all their effects had been put in a +place of security, to come and surprise those on land, taking advantage of +them as much as possible, and to carry off all they had. But, if by chance +they should find them on their guard, they resolved to come with signs of +friendship, as they were wont to do, leaving behind their bows and arrows. + +Now, in view of what Sieur de Poutrincourt had seen, and the order which it +had been told him they observed when they wished to play some bad trick, +when we passed by some cabins, where there was a large number of women, we +gave them some bracelets and rings to keep them quiet and free from fear, +and to most of the old and distinguished men hatchets, knives, and other +things which they desired. This pleased them greatly, and they repaid it +all in dances, gambols, and harangues, which we did not understand at all. +We went wherever we chose without their having the assurance to say any +thing to us. It pleased us greatly to see them; show themselves so simple +in appearance. + +We returned very quietly to our barque, accompanied by some of the savages. +On the way, we met several small troops of them, who gradually gathered +together with their arms, and were greatly astonished to see us so far in +the interior, and did not suppose that we had just made a circuit of nearly +four or five leagues about their territory. Passing near us, they trembled +with fear, lest harm should be done them, as it was in our power to do. But +we did them none, although we knew their evil intentions. Having arrived +where our men were working, Sieur de Poutrincourt inquired if every thing +was in readiness to resist the designs of this rabble. + +He ordered every thing on shore to be embarked. This was done, except that +he who was making the bread stayed to finish a baking, and two others with +him. They were told that the savages had some evil intent, and that they +should make haste to embark the coming evening, since they carried their +plans into execution only at night, or at daybreak, which in their plots is +generally the hour for making a surprise. + +Evening having come, Sieur de Poutrincourt gave orders that the shallop +should be sent ashore to get the men who remained. This was done as soon as +the tide would permit, and those on shore were told that they must embark +for the reason assigned. This they refused in spite of the remonstrances +that were made setting forth the risks they ran and the disobedience to +their chief. They paid no attention to it, with the exception of a servant +of Sieur de Poutrincourt, who embarked. Two others disembarked from the +shallop and went to the three on shore, who had stayed to eat some cakes +made at the same time with the bread. + +But, as they were unwilling to do as they were told, the shallop returned +to the vessel. It was not mentioned to Sieur de Poutrincourt, who had +retired, thinking that all were on board. + +The next day, in the morning, the 15th of October, the savages did not fail +to come and see in what condition our men were, whom they found asleep, +except one, who was near the fire. When they saw them in this condition, +they came, to the number of four hundred, softly over a little hill, and +sent them such a volley of arrows that to rise up was death. Fleeing the +best they could towards our barque, shouting, "Help! they are killing us!" +a part fell dead in the water; the others were all pierced with arrows, and +one died in consequence a short time after. The savages made a desperate +noise with roarings, which it was terrible to hear. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +THE ATTACK AT PORT FORTUNE. + +The figures indicate fathoms of water. + +_A_. Place where the French were making bread. +_B_. The savages surprising the French, and shooting their arrows at them. +_C_. French burned by the savages. +_D_. The French fleeing to the barque, completely covered with arrows. +_E_. Troops of savages burning the French whom they had killed. +_F_. Mountain bordering on the harbor. +_G_. Cabins of the savages. +_H_. French on the shore charging upon the savages. +_I_. Savages routed by the French. +_L_. Shallop in which were the French. +_M_. Savages around our shallop, who were surprised by our men. +_N_. Barque of Sieur de Poutrincourt. +_O_. The harbor. +_P_. Small brook. +_Q_. French who fell dead in the water as they were trying to flee to the + barque. +_R_. Brook coming from certain marshes. +_S_. Woods under cover of which the savages came. + + * * * * * + +Upon the occurrence of this noise and that of our men, the sentinel, on our +vessel, exclaimed, "To arms! They are killing our men!" Consequently, each +one immediately seized his arms; and we embarked in the shallop, some +fifteen or sixteen of us, in order to go ashore. But, being unable to get +there on account of a sand-bank between us and the land, we threw ourselves +into the water, and waded from this bank to the shore, the distance of a +musket-shot. As soon as we were there, the savages, seeing us within arrow +range, fled into the interior. To pursue them was fruitless, for they are +marvellously swift. All that we could do was to carry away the dead bodies +and bury them near a cross, which had been set up the day before, and then +to go here and there to see if we could get sight of any of them. But it +was time wasted, therefore we came back. Three hours afterwards, they +returned to us on the sea-shore. We discharged at them several shots from +our little brass cannon; and, when they heard the noise, they crouched down +on the ground to avoid the fire. In mockery of us, they beat down the cross +and disinterred the dead, which displeased us greatly, and caused us to go +for them a second time; but they fled, as they had done before. We set up +again the cross, and reinterred the dead, whom they had thrown here and +there amid the heath, where they kindled a fire to burn them. We returned +without any result, as we had done before, well aware that there was +scarcely hope of avenging ourselves this time, and that we should have to +renew the undertaking when it should please God. + +On the 16th of the month, we set out from Port Fortuné, to which we had +given this name on account of the misfortune which happened to us there. +This place is in latitude 41° 20', and some twelve or thirteen leagues from +Mallebarre. [226] + +ENDNOTES: + +210. Clearly a mistake. Champlain here says they "continued their course + north," whereas, the whole context shows that they must have gone + south. + +211. "The sandy point" running out nearly three leagues was evidently the + island of Monomoy, or its representative, which at that time may have + been only a continuation of the main land. Champlain does not + delineate on his map an island, but a sand-bank nearly in the shape of + an isosceles triangle, which extends far to the south-east. Very great + changes have undoubtedly taken place on this part of the coast since + the visit of Champlain. The sand-bar figured by him has apparently + been swept from the south-east round to the south-west, and is perhaps + not very much changed in its general features except as to its + position. "We know from our studies of such shoals," says + Prof. Mitchell, Chief of Physical Hydrography, U. S. Coast Survey, + "that the relative order of banks and beaches remains about the same, + however the system as a whole may change its location."--_Mass. + Harbor Commissioners' Report_. 1873, p. 99. + +212. _Batturier_. This word is an adjective, formed with the proper + termination from the noun, _batture_, which means a bank upon which + the sea beats, reef or sand-bank. _Cap Batturier_ may therefore be + rendered sand-bank cape, or the cape of the sand-banks. _Batturier_ + does not appear in the dictionaries, and was doubtless coined by + Champlain himself, as he makes, farther on, the adjective _truitière_, + in the expression _la rivière truitière_, from the noun, _truite_. + +213. The distances here given appear to be greatly overstated. From Nauset + to the southern point of Monomoy, as it is to-day, the distance is not + more than six leagues. But, as the sea was rough, and they were + apparently much delayed, the distance might naturally enough be + overestimated. + +214. The anchorage was in Chatham Roads, or Old Stage Harbor. + +215. Harding's Beach Point. + +216. They were now in Stage Harbor, in Chatham, to which Champlain, farther + on gives the name of Port Fortuné. + +217. This is the narrow bay that stretches from Morris Island to the north, + parallel with the sea, separated from it only by a sand-bank, and now + reaching beyond Chatham into the town of Orleans. By comparing + Champlain's map of Port Fortuné with modern charts, it will be seen + that the "bay extending back on the north some three leagues" + terminated, in 1606, a little below Chatham Old Harbor. The island on + Champlain's map marked G. was a little above the harbor, but has been + entirely swept away, together with the neck north of it, represented + on Champlain's map as covered with trees. The bay now extends, as we + have stated above, into the town of Orleans. The island G, known in + modern times as Ram Island, disappeared in 1851, although it still + continued to figure on Walling's map of 1858: The two other little + bays mentioned in the text scarcely appear on Champlain's map; and he + may have inadvertently included in this bay the two that are farther + north, viz. Crow's Pond and Pleasant Bay, although they do not fall + within the limits of his map. + +218. _Vide antea_, notes 168, 204, 205. + +219. Indian corn, _Zea mays_, is a plant of American origin. Columbus saw + it among the natives of the West Indies, "a sort of grain they call + Maiz, which was well tasted, bak'd, or dry'd and made into flour."-- + _Vide History of the Life and Actions of Chris. Columbus by his Son + Ferdinand Columbus, Churchill's Voyages_, Vol. II. p. 510. + + It is now cultivated more or less extensively in nearly every part of + the world where the climate is suitable. Champlain is the first who + has left a record of the method of its cultivation in New England, + _vide antea_, p. 64, and of its preservation through the winter. The + Pilgrims, in 1620, found it deposited by the Indians in the ground + after the manner described in the text. Bradford says they found + "heaps of sand newly padled with their hands, which they, digging up, + found in them diverce faire Indean baskets filled with corne, and some + in eares, faire and good, of diverce collours, which seemed to them a + very goodly sight, haveing never seen any such before:"--_His. Plym. + Plantation_, p. 82. Squanto taught the English how to "set it, and + after how to dress and tend it"--_Idem_, p. 100. + + "The women," says Roger Williams, "set or plant, weede and hill, and + gather and barne all the corne and Fruites of the field," and of + drying the corn, he adds, "which they doe carefully upon heapes and + Mats many dayes, they barne it up, covering it up with Mats at night, + and opening when the Sun is hot." + + The following are testimonies as to the use made by the natives of the + Indian corn as food:-- + + "They brought with them in a thing like a Bow-case, which the + principall of them had about his wast, a little of their Corne + powdered to Powder, which put to a little water they eate."--_Mourts + Relation_, London, 1622, Dexter's ed., p. 88. + + "Giving us a kinde of bread called by them _Maizium_."--_Idem_, + p. 101. + + "They seldome or never make bread of their _Indian_ corne, but seeth + it whole like beanes, eating three or four cornes with a mouthfull of + fish or flesh, sometimes eating meate first and cornes after, filling + chinckes with their broth."--_Wood's New Eng. Prospect_, London, 1634. + Prince Society's ed., pp. 75, 76. + + "Nonkekich. _Parch'd meal_, which is a readie very wholesome, food, + which they eate with a little water hot or cold: ... With _spoonfull_ + of this _meale_ and a spoonfull of water from the _Brooke_, have I + made many a good dinner and supper."--_Roger Williams's Key_, London, + 1643, Trumbull's ed., pp. 39, 40. + + "Their food is generally boiled maize, or Indian corn, mixed with + kidney beans or Sometimes without.... Also they mix with the said + pottage several sorts of roots, as Jerusalem artichokes, and ground + nuts, and other roots, and pompions, and squashes, and also several + sorts of nuts or masts, as oak-acorns, chesnuts, walnuts: These husked + and dried, and powdered, they thicken their pottage therewith."-- + _Historical Collections of the Indians_, by Daniel Gookin, 1674, + Boston, 1792. p. 10. + +220. The character of the Indian dress, as here described, does not differ + widely from that of a later period.--_Vide Mourt's Relation_, 1622, + Dexter's ed., p. 135: _Roger Williams's Key_, 1643, Trumbull's ed., + p. 143, _et seq.; History of New England_, by Edward Johnson, 1654, + Poole's ed., pp. 224, 225. + + Champlain's observations were made in the autumn before the approach + of the winter frosts. + + Thomas Morton, writing in 1632, says that the mantle which the women + "use to cover their nakednesse with is much longer then that which the + men use; for as the men have one Deeres skinn, the women haue two soed + together at the full length, and it is so lardge that it trailes after + them, like a great Ladies trane, and in time," he sportively adds, "I + thinke they may have their Pages to beare them up."--_New Eng. + Canaan_, 1632, in Force's Tracts, Vol. II, p. 23. + +221. This conclusion harmonizes with the opinion of Thomas Morton, who says + that the natives of New England are "_sine fide, sine lege, et sine + rege_, and that they have no worship nor religion at all."--_New Eng. + Canaan_, 1632, in Force's Tracts, Vol. II. p. 21. + + Winslow was at first of the same opinion, but afterward saw cause for + changing his mind.--_Vide Winslow's Relation_, 1624, in Young's + Chronicles, P 355. See also _Roger Williams's Key_, Trumbull's ed., + p. 159. + +222. "Their houses, or wigwams," says Gookin, "are built with small poles + fixed in the ground, bent and fastened together with barks of trees, + oval or arborwise on the top. The best sort of their houses are + covered very neatly, tight, and warm with the bark of trees, stripped + from their bodies at such seasons when the sap is up; and made into + great flakes with pressures of weighty timbers, when they are green; + and so becoming dry, they will retain a form suitable for the use they + prepare them for. The meaner sort of wigwams are covered with mats + they make of a kind of bulrush, which are also indifferent tight and + warm, but not so good as the former."--_Vide Historical Collections_, + 1674, Boston, 1792, p. 9. + +223. The construction of the Indian couch, or bed, at a much later period + may be seen by the following excerpts: "So we desired to goe to rest: + he layd us on the bed with himselfe and his wife, they at one end and + we at the other, it being only plancks layd a foot from the ground, + and a thin mat upon them."--_Mourt's Relation_, London. 1622, Dexter's + ed., pp. 107, 108. "In their wigwams, they make a kind of couch or + mattresses, firm and strong, raised about a foot high from the earth; + first covered with boards that they split out of trees; and upon the + boards they spread mats generally, and sometimes bear skins and deer + skins. These are large enough for three or four persons to lodge upon: + and one may either draw nearer or keep at a more distance from the + heat of the fire, as they please; for their mattresses are six or + eight feet broad."--_Gookin's Historical Collections_, 1674, Boston, + 1792, p. 10. + +224. This exploration appears to have extended about as far as Point + Gammon, where, being "near the land," their Indian guide left them, as + stated in the text. + +225. On the map of Port Fortuné, or Chatham, the course of one of these + excursions is marked by a dotted line, to which the reader is + referred.--_Vide_ notes on the map of Port Fortuné. + +226. _Port Fortuné_, perhaps here used, to signify the port of chance or + hazard; referring particularly to the dangers they encountered in + passing round Monomoy to reach it. The latitude of Stage Harbor in + Chatham is 41° 40'. The distance from Mallebarre or Nauset to Port + Fortuné, or Stage Harbor, by water round the Southern point of Monomoy + is at the present time about nine leagues. The distance may possibly + have been greater in 1606, or Champlain may have increased the + distance by giving a wide berth to Monomoy in passing round it. + + + + +CHAPTER XV. + +THE INCLEMENCY OF THE WEATHER NOT PERMITTING US AT THAT TIME TO CONTINUE +OUR DISCOVERIES, WE RESOLVED TO RETURN TO OUR SETTLEMENT. WHAT HAPPENED TO +US UNTIL WE REACHED IT. + + +After having gone some six or seven leagues, we sighted an island, which we +named La Soupçonneuse, [227] because in the distance we had several times +thought it was not an island. Then the wind became contrary, which caused +us to put back to the place whence we had set out, where we stayed two or +three days, no savage during this time presenting himself to us. + +On the 20th, we set out anew and coasted along to the south-west nearly +twelve leagues, [228] where we passed near a river which is small and +difficult of access in consequence of the shoals and rocks at its mouth, +and which I called after my own name. [229] This coast is, so far as we +saw, low and sandy. The wind again grew contrary and very strong, which +caused us to put out to sea, as we were unable to advance on one tack or +the other; it, however, finally abated a little and grew favorable. But all +we could do was to return again to Port Fortuné, where the coast, though +low, is fine and good, yet difficult of access, there being no harbors, +many reefs, and shallow water for the distance of nearly two leagues from +land. The most that we found was seven or eight fathoms in some channels, +which, however, continued only a cable's length, when there were suddenly +only two or three fathoms; but one should not trust the water who has not +well examined the depth with the lead in hand. + +Some hours after we had returned to port, a son of Pont Gravé, named +Robert, lost a hand in firing a musket, which burst in several pieces, but +without injuring any one near him. + +Seeing now the wind continuing contrary, and being unable to put to sea, we +resolved meanwhile to get possession of some savages of this place, and, +taking them to our settlement, put them to grinding corn at the hand-mill, +as punishment for the deadly assault which they had committed on five or +six of our company. But it was very difficult to do this when we were +armed, since, if we went to them prepared to fight, they would turn and +flee into the woods, where they were not to be caught. It was necessary, +accordingly, to have recourse to artifice, and this is what we planned: +when they should come to seek friendship with us, to coax them by showing +them beads and other gewgaws, and assure them repeatedly of our good faith; +then to take the shallop well armed, and conduct on shore the most robust +and strong men we had, each one having a chain of beads and a fathom of +match on his arm; [230] and there, while pretending to smoke with them +(each one having an end of his match lighted so as not to excite suspicion, +it being customary to have fire at the end of a cord in order to light the +tobacco), coax them with pleasing words so as to draw them into the +shallop; and, if they should be unwilling to enter, each one approaching +should choose his man, and, putting the beads about his neck, should at the +same time put the rope on him to draw him by force. But, if they should be +too boisterous, and it should not be possible to succeed, they should be +stabbed, the rope being firmly held; and, if by chance any of them should +get away, there should be men on land to charge upon them with swords. +Meanwhile, the little cannon on our barque were to be kept ready to fire +upon their companions in case they should come to assist them, under cover +of which firearms the shallop could withdraw in security. The plan +above-mentioned was well carried out as it had been arranged. + +Some days after these events had transpired, there came savages by threes +and fours to the shore, making signs to us to go to them. But we saw their +main body in ambuscade under a hillock behind some bushes, and I suppose +that they were only desirous of beguiling us into the shallop in order to +discharge a shower of arrows upon us, and then take to flight. +Nevertheless, Sieur de Poutrincourt did not hesitate to go to them with ten +of us, well equipped and determined to fight them, if occasion offered. We +landed at a place beyond their ambuscade, as we thought, and where they +could not surprise us. There three or four of us went ashore together with +Sieur de Poutrincourt: the others did not leave the shallop, in order to +protect it and be ready for an emergency. We ascended a knoll and went +about the woods to see if we could not discover more plainly the ambuscade. +When they saw us going so unconcernedly to them, they left and went to +other places, which we could not see, and of the four savages we saw only +two, who went away very slowly. As they withdrew, they made signs to us to +take our shallop to another place, thinking that it was not favorable for +the carrying out of their plan. And, when we also saw that they had no +desire to come to us, we re-embarked and went to the place they indicated, +which was the second ambuscade they had made, in their endeavor to draw us +unarmed to themselves by signs of friendship. But this we were not +permitted to do at that time, yet we approached very near them without +seeing this ambuscade, which we supposed was not far off. As our shallop +approached the shore, they took to flight, as also those in ambush, after +whom we fired some musket-shots, since we saw that their intention was only +to deceive us by flattery, in which they were disappointed; for we +recognized clearly what their purpose was, which had only mischief in view. +We retired to our barque after having done all we could. + +On the same day, Sieur de Poutrincourt resolved to return to our settlement +on account of four or five sick and wounded men, whose wounds were growing +worse through lack of salves, of which our surgeon, by a great mistake on +his part, had brought but a small provision, to the detriment of the sick +and our own discomfort, as the stench from their wounds was so great, in a +little vessel like our own, that one could scarcely endure it. Moreover, we +were afraid that they would generate disease. Also we had provisions only +for going eight or ten days farther, however much economy might be +practised; and we knew not whether the return would last as long as the +advance, which was nearly two months. + +At any rate, our resolution being formed, we withdrew, but with the +satisfaction that God had not left unpunished the misdeeds of these +barbarians. [231] We advanced no farther than to latitude 41° 30', which +was only half a degree farther than Sieur de Monts had gone on his voyage +of discovery. We set out accordingly from this harbor. [232] + +On the next day, we anchored near Mallebarre, where we remained until the +28th of the month, when we set sail. On that day the air was very cold, +and there was a little snow. We took a direct course for Norumbegue or +Isle Haute. Heading east-north-east, we were two days at sea without +seeing land, being kept back by bad weather. On the following night, we +sighted the islands, which are between Quinibequy and Norumbegue. [233] +The wind was so strong that we were obliged, to put to sea until daybreak; +but we went so far from land, although we used very little sail, that we +could not see it again until the next day, when we saw Isle Haute, of which +we were abreast. + +On the last day of October, between the Island of Monts Déserts and Cap +Corneille, [234] our rudder broke in several pieces, without our knowing +the reason. Each one expressed his opinion about it. On the following +night, with a fresh breeze, we came among a large number of islands and +rocks, whither the wind drove us; and we resolved to take refuge, if +possible, on the first land we should find. + +We were for some time at the mercy of the wind and sea, with only the +foresail set. But the worst of it was that the night was dark, and we did +not know where we were going; for our barque could not be steered at all, +although we did all that was possible, holding in our hands the sheets of +the foresail, which sometimes enabled us to steer it a little. We kept +continually sounding, to see if it were possible to find a bottom for +anchoring, and to prepare ourselves for what might happen. But we found +none. Finally, as we were going faster than we wished, it was recommended +to put an oar astern together with some men, so as to steer to an island +which we saw, in order to shelter ourselves from the wind. Two other oars +also were put over the sides in the after part of the barque, to assist +those who were steering, in order to make the vessel bear up on one tack +and the other. This device served us so well, that we headed where we +wished, and ran in behind the point of the island we had seen, anchoring in +twenty-one fathoms of water until daybreak, when we proposed to reconnoitre +our position and seek for a place to make another rudder. The wind abated. +At daybreak, we found ourselves near the Isles Rangées, [235] entirely +surrounded by breakers, and we praised God for having preserved us so +wonderfully amid so many perils. + +On the 1st of November, we went to a place which we deemed favorable for +beaching our vessel and repairing our helm. On this day, I landed, and saw +some ice two inches thick, it having frozen perhaps eight or ten days +before. I observed also that the temperature of the place differed very +much from that of Mallebarre and Port Fortuné; for the leaves of the trees +were not yet dead, and had not begun to fall when we set out, while here +they had all fallen, and it was much colder than at Port Fortuné. + +On the next day, as we were beaching our barque, a canoe came containing +Etechemin savages, who told the savage Secondon in our barque that +Iouaniscou, with his companions, had killed some other savages, and carried +off some women as prisoners, whom they had executed near the Island of +Monts Déserts. + +On the 9th of the month, we set out from near Cap Corneille, and anchored +the same day in the little passage [236] of Sainte Croix River. + +On the morning of the next day, we landed our savage with some supplies +which we gave him. He was well pleased and satisfied at having made this +voyage with us, and took away with him some heads of the savages that had +been killed at Port Fortuné. [237] The same day we anchored in a very +pretty cove [238] on the south of the Island of Manan. + +On the 12th of the month, we made sail; and, when under way, the shallop, +which we were towing astern, struck against our barque so violently and +roughly that it made an opening and stove in her upper works, and again in +the recoil broke the iron fastenings of our rudder. At first, we thought +that the first blow had stove in some planks in the lower part, which would +have sunk us; for the wind was so high that all we could do was to carry +our foresail. But finding that the damage was slight, and that there was no +danger, we managed with ropes to repair the rudder as well as we could, so +as to serve us to the end of our voyage. This was not until the 14th of +November, when, at the entrance to Port Royal, we came near being lost on a +point; but God delivered us from this danger as well as from many others to +which we had been exposed. [239] + + +ENDNOTES: + +227. _La Soupçonneuse_, the doubtful, Martha's Vineyard. Champlain and + Poutrincourt, in the little French barque, lying low on the water, + creeping along the shore from Chatham to Point Gammon, could hardly + fail to be doubtful whether Martha's Vineyard were an island or a part + of the main land. Lescarbot, speaking of it, says, _et fut appelée + l'Ile Douteuse_. + +228. Nearly twelve leagues in a southwesterly direction from their + anchorage at Stage Harbor in Chatham would bring them to Nobska Point, + at the entrance of the Vineyard Sound. This was the limit of + Champlain's explorations towards the south. + +229. "Called after my own name." viz. _Rivière de Champlain_.--_Vide_ map, + 1612. This river appears to be a tidal passage connecting the Vineyard + Sound and Buzzard's Bay, having Nouamesset and Uncatena Islands on the + south-west, and Nobska Point, Wood's Boll, and Long Neck on the + north-east. On our Coast Survey Charts, it is called Hadley River. Its + length is nearly two miles, in a winding course. The mouth of this + passage is full of boulders, and in a receding tide the current is + rough and boisterous, and would answer well to the description in the + text, as no other river does on the coast from Chatham to Wood's + Holl. On the small French barque, elevated but a little above the + surface of the water, its source in Buzzard's Bay could not be + discovered, especially if they passed round Nobska Point, under the + lee of which they probably obtained a view of the "shoals, and rocks" + which they saw at the mouth of the river. + +230. _A fathom of match on his arm_. This was a rope, made of the tow of + hemp or flax, loosely twisted, and prepared to retain the fire, so + that, when once lighted, it would burn till the whole was consumed. It + was employed in connection with the match-lock, the arm then in common + use. The wheel-lock followed in order of time, which was discharged by + means of a notched wheel of steel, so arranged that its friction, when + in motion, threw sparks of fire into the pan that contained the + powder. The snaphance was a slight improvement upon the wheel-lock. + The flint-lock followed, now half a century since superseded by the + percussion lock and cap. + +231. They did not capture any of the Indians, to be reduced to a species of + slavery, as they intended; but, as will appear further on, inhumanly + butchered several of them, which would seem to have been an act of + revenge rather than of punishment. The intercourse of the French with + the natives of Cape Cod was, on the whole, less satisfactory than that + with the northern tribes along the shores of Maine, New Brunswick, and + Nova Scotia. With the latter they had no hostile conflicts whatever, + although the Indians were sufficiently implacable and revengeful + towards their enemies. Those inhabiting the peninsula of Cape Cod, and + as far north as Cape Anne, were more suspicious, and had apparently + less clear conceptions of personal rights, especially the rights of + property. Might and right were to them identical. Whatever they + desired, they thought they had a right to have, if they had the power + or wit to obtain it. The French came in contact with only two of the + many subordinate tribes that were in possession of the peninsula; + viz., the Monomoyicks at Chatham, and the Nausets at Eastham. The + conflict in both instances grew out of an attempt on the part of the + natives to commit a petty theft. But it is quite possible that the + invasion of their territory by strangers, an unpardonable offence + among civilized people, may have created a feeling of hostility that + found a partial gratification in stealing their property; and, had not + this occasion offered, the stifled feeling of hostility may have + broken out in some other form. In general, they were not subsequently + unfriendly in their intercourse with the English. The Nausets were, + however, the same that sent a shower of arrows upon the Pilgrims in + 1620, at the place called by them the "First Encounter," and not more + than three miles from the spot where the same tribe, in 1605, had + attacked the French, and Slain one of De Monts's men. It must, + however, be said that, beside the invasion of their country, the + Pilgrims had, some days before, rifled the granaries of the natives + dwelling a few miles north of the Nausets, and taken away without + leave a generous quantity of their winter's supply of corn; and this + may have inspired them with a desire to be rid of visitors who helped + themselves to their provisions, the fruit of their summer's toil, + their dependence for the winter already upon them, with so little + ceremony and such unscrupulous selfishness; for such it must have + appeared to the Nausets in their savage and unenlightened state. It is + to be regretted that these excellent men, the Pilgrims, did not more + fully comprehend the moral character of their conduct in this + instance. They lost at the outset a golden opportunity for impressing + upon the minds of the natives the great practical principle enunciated + by our Lord, the foundation of all good neighborhood, [Greek: Panta + oun osa an thelaete ina poiosin hymin hoi anthropoi, houto kai hymeis + poieite autois. Matth]. vii 12.--_Vide Bradford's Hist. Plym. + Plantation_, pp. 82, 83; _Mourt's Relation_, London, 1622, Dexter's + ed., pp. 21, 22, 30, 31, 55. + +232. The latitude of Nobska Point, the most southern limit of their voyage, + is 41° 31', while the latitude of Nauset Harbor, the southern limit of + that of De Monts on the previous year, 1605, is 41° 49'. They + consequently advanced but 18', or eighteen nautical miles, further + south than they did the year before. Had they commenced this year's + explorations where those of the preceding terminated, as Champlain had + advised, they might have explored the whole coast as far as Long + Island Sound. _Vide antea_, pp. 109, 110. + +233. Between the Kennebec and Penobscot. + +234. _Vide antea_, note 177. + +235. _Isles Rangées_, the small islands along the coast south-west of + Machias. _Vide_ map of 1612. + +236. _Petit passage de la Rivière Saincte Croix_, the southern strait + leading into Eastport Harbor. This anchorage appears to have been in + Quoddy Roads between Quoddy Head and Lubeck. + +237. In reporting the stratagem resorted to for decoying the Indians into + the hands of the French at Port Fortuné, Champlain passes over the + details of the bloody encounter, doubtless to spare himself and the + reader the painful record; but its results are here distinctly + stated. Compare _antea_, pp. 132, 133. + +238. Sailing from Quoddy Head to Annapolis Bay, they would in their course + pass round the northern point of the Grand Manan; and they probably + anchored in Whale Cove, or perhaps in Long Island Bay, a little + further south. Champlain's map is so oriented that both of these bays + would appear to be on the south of the Grand Manan. _Vide_ map of + 1612. + +239. Champlain had now completed his survey south of the Bay of Fundy. He + had traced the shore-line with its sinuosities and its numberless + islands far beyond the two distinguished headlands, Cape Sable and + Cape Cod, which respectively mark the entrance to the Gulf of Maine. + The priority of these observations, particularly with reference to the + habits, mode of life, and character of the aborigines, invests them + with an unusual interest and value. Anterior to the visits of + Champlain, the natives on this coast had come in contact with + Europeans but rarely and incidentally, altogether too little + certainly, if we except those residing on the southern coast of Nova + Scotia, to have any modifying effect upon their manners, customs, or + mode of life. What Champlain reports, therefore, of the Indians, is + true of them in their purely savage state, untouched by any influences + of European civilization. This distinguishes the record, and gives to + it a special importance. + + + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +RETURN FROM THE FOREGOING DISCOVERIES, AND WHAT TRANSPIRED DURING THE +WINTER. + +Upon our arrival, Lescarbot, who had remained at the settlement, assisted +by the others who had stayed there, welcomed us with a humorous +entertainment. [240] + +Having landed and had time to take breath, each one began to make little +gardens, I among the rest attending to mine, in order in the spring to sow +several kinds of seeds which had been brought from France, and which grew +very well in all the gardens. + +Sieur de Poutrincourt, moreover, had a water-mill built nearly a league and +a half from our settlement, near the point where grain had been planted. +This mill [241] was built at a fall, on a little river which is not +navigable on account of the large number of rocks in it, and which falls +into a small lake. In this place, there is such an abundance of herring in +their season that shallops could be loaded with them, if one were to take +the trouble to bring the requisite apparatus. The savages also of this +region come here sometimes to fish. A quantity of charcoal was made by us +for our forge. During the winter, in order not to remain idle, I undertook +the building of a road along the wood to a little, river or brook, which we +named La Truitière, [242] there being many trout there. I asked Sieur de +Poutrincourt for two or three men, which he gave me to assist in making +this passage-way. I got along so well that in a little while I had the road +through. It extends through to trout-brook, and measures nearly two +thousand paces. It served us as a walk under the shelter of the trees, +which I had left on both sides. This led Sieur de Poutrincourt to determine +to make another through the woods, in order that we might go straight to +the mouth of Port Royal, it being a distance of nearly three leagues and a +half by land from our settlement. He had this commenced and continued for +about half a league from La Truitière; but he did not finish it, as the +undertaking was too laborious, and he was occupied by other things at the +time more necessary. Some time after our arrival, we saw a shallop +containing savages, who told us that a savage, who was one of our friends, +had been killed by those belonging to the place whence they came, which was +Norumbegue, in revenge for the killing of the men of Norumbegue and +Quinibequy by Iouaniscou, also a savage, and his followers, as I have +before related; and that some Etechemins had informed the savage Secondon, +who was with us at that time. + +The commander of the shallop was the savage named Ouagimou, who was on +terms of friendship with Bessabez, chief of the river Norumbegue, of whom +he asked the body of Panounias, [243] who had been killed. The latter +granted it to him, begging him to tell his friends that he was very sorry +for his death, and assuring him that it was without his knowledge that he +had been killed, and that, inasmuch as it was not his fault, he begged him +to tell them that he desired they might continue to live as friends. This +Ouagimou promised to do upon his return. He said to us that he was very +uneasy until he got away from them, whatever friendship they might show +him, since they were liable to change; and he feared that they would treat +him in the same manner as they had the one who had been killed. +Accordingly, he did not tarry long after being dismissed. He took the body +in his shallop from Norumbegue to our settlement, a distance of fifty +leagues. + +As soon as the body was brought on shore, his relatives and friends began +to shout by his side, having painted their entire face with black, which is +their mode of mourning. After lamenting much, they took a quantity of +tobacco and two or three dogs and other things belonging to the deceased, +and burned them some thousand paces from our settlement on the +sea-shore. Their cries continued until they returned to their cabin. + +The next day they took the body of the deceased and wrapped it in a red +covering, which Mabretou, chief of this place, urgently implored me to give +him, since it was handsome and large. He gave it to the relatives of the +deceased, who thanked me very much for it. After thus; wrapping up the +body, they decorated it with several kinds of _matachiats_; that is, +strings of beads and bracelets of diverse colors. They painted the face, +and put on the head many feathers and other things, the finest they had. +Then they placed the body on its knees between two sticks, with another +under the arms to sustain it. Around the body were the mother, wife, and +others of the relatives and friends of the deceased, both women and girls, +howling like dogs. + +While the women and girls were shrieking, the savage named Mabretou made an +address to his companions on the death of the deceased, urging all to take +vengeance for the wickedness and treachery committed by the subjects of +Bessabez, and to make war upon them as speedily as possible. All agreed to +do so in the spring. + +After the harangue was finished and the cries had ceased, they carried the +body of the deceased to another cabin. After smoking tobacco together, +they wrapped it in an elk-skin likewise; and, binding it very securely, +they kept it until there should be a larger number of savages present, from +each one of whom the brother of the deceased expected to receive presents, +it being their custom to give them to those who have lost fathers, mothers, +wives, brothers, or sisters. + +On the night of the 26th of December, there was a southeast wind, which +blew down several trees. On the last day of December, it began to snow, +which continued until the morning of the next day. On the both of January +following, 1607, Sieur de Poutrincourt, desiring to ascend the river +Équille, [244] found it at a distance of some two leagues from our +settlement sealed with ice, which caused him to return, not being able to +advance any farther. On the 8th of February, some pieces of ice began to +flow down from the upper part of the river into the harbor, which only +freezes along the shore. On the both of May following, it snowed all night; +and, towards the end of the month, there were heavy hoar-frosts, which +lasted until the 10th or 12th of June, when all the trees were covered with +leaves, except the oaks, which do not leaf out until about the 15th. The +winter was not so severe as on the preceding years, nor did the snow +continue so long on the ground. It rained very often, so that the savages +suffered a severe famine, owing to the small quantity of snow. Sieur de +Poutrincourt supported a part of them who were with us; namely, Mabretou, +his wife and children, and some others. + +We spent this winter very pleasantly, and fared generously by means of the +ORDRE DE BON TEMPS, which I introduced. This all found useful for their +health, and more advantageous than all the medicines that could have been +used. By the rules of the order, a chain was put, with some little +ceremonies, on the neck of one of our company, commissioning him for the +day to go a-hunting. The next day it was conferred upon another, and thus +in succession. All exerted themselves to the utmost to see who would do the +best and bring home the finest game. We found this a very good arrangement, +as did also the savages who were with us. [245] + +There were some cases of _mal de la terre_ among us, which was, however, +not so violent as in the previous years. Nevertheless, seven died from it, +and another from an arrow wound, which he had received from the savages at +Port Fortuné. [246] + +Our surgeon, named Master Estienne, opened some of the bodies, as we did +the previous years, and found almost all the interior parts affected. Eight +or ten of the sick got well by spring. + +At the beginning of March and of April, all began to prepare gardens, so as +to plant seeds in May, which is the proper time for it. They grew as well +as in France, but were somewhat later. I think France is at least a month +and a half more forward. As I have stated, the time to plant is in May, +although one can sometimes do so in April; yet the seeds planted then do +not come forward any faster than those planted in May, when the cold can no +longer damage the plants except those which are very tender, since there +are many which cannot endure the hoar-frosts, unless great care and +attention be exercised. + +On the 24th of May, we perceived a small barque [247] of six or seven tons' +burthen, which we sent men to reconnoitre; and it was found to be a young +man from St. Malo, named Chevalier, who brought letters from Sieur de Monts +to Sieur de Poutrincourt, by which he directed him to bring back his +company to France. [248] He also announced to us the birth of Monseigneur, +the Duke of Orleans, to our delight, in honor of which event we made +bonfires and chanted the _Te Deum_. [249] + +Between the beginning and the 20th of June, some thirty or forty savages +assembled in this place in order to make war upon the Almouchiquois, and +revenge the death of Panounias, who was interred by the savages according +to their custom, who gave afterwards a quantity of peltry to a brother of +his.[250] The presents being made, all of them set out from this place on +the 29th of June for Choüacoet, which is the country of the Almouchiquois, +to engage in the war. + +Some days after the arrival of the above Chevalier, Sieur de Poutrincourt +sent him to the rivers St. John [251] and St. Croix [252] to trade for +furs. But he did not permit him to go without men to bring back the barque, +since some had reported that he desired to return to France with the vessel +in which he had come, and leave us in our settlement. Lescarbot was one of +those who accompanied him, who up to this time had not left Port Royal. +This is the farthest he went, only fourteen or fifteen leagues beyond Port +Royal. + +While awaiting the return of Chevalier, Sieur de Poutrincourt went to the +head of Baye Françoise in a shallop with seven or eight men. Leaving the +harbor and heading northeast a quarter east for some twenty-five leagues +along the coast, we arrived at a cape where Sieur de Poutrincourt desired +to ascend a cliff more than thirty fathoms high, in doing which he came +near losing his life. For, having reached the top of the rock which is very +narrow, and which he had ascended with much difficulty, the summit trembled +beneath him. The reason was that, in course of time, moss had gathered +there four or five feet in thickness, and, not being solid, trembled when +one was on top of it, and very often when one stepped on a stone three or +four others fell down. Accordingly, having gone up with difficulty, he +experienced still greater in coming down, although some sailors, men very +dexterous in climbing, carried him a hawser, a rope of medium size, by +means of which he descended, This place was named Cap de Poutrincourt, +[253] and is in latitude 45° 40'. + +We went as far as the head of this bay, but saw nothing but certain white +stones suitable for making lime, yet they are found only in small +quantities. We saw also on some islands a great number of gulls. We +captured as many of them as we wished. We made the tour of the bay, in +order to go to the Port aux Mines where I had previously been, [254] and +whither I conducted Sieur de Poutrincourt, who collected some little pieces +of copper with great difficulty. All this bay has a circuit of perhaps +twenty leagues, with a little river at its head, which is very sluggish and +contains but little water. There are many other little brooks, and some +places where there are good harbors at high tide, which rises here five +fathoms. In one of these harbors three or four leagues north of Cap de +Poutrincourt, we found a very old cross all covered with moss and almost +all rotten, a plain indication that before this there had been Christians +there. All of this country is covered with dense forests, and with some +exceptions is not very attractive. [255] + +From the Port aux Mines [256] we returned to our settlement. In this bay +there are strong tidal currents running in a south-westerly direction. + +On the 12th of July, Ralleau, secretary of Sieur de Monts, arrived with +three others in a shallop from a place called Niganis, [257] distant from +Port Royal some hundred and sixty or hundred and seventy leagues, +confirming the report which Chevalier had brought to Sieur de Poutrincourt. + +On the 3d of July, [258] three barques were fitted out to send the men and +supplies, which were at our settlement, to Canseau, distant one hundred and +fifteen leagues from our settlement, and in latitude 45° 20', where the +vessel [259] was engaged in fishing, which was to carry us back to France. + +Sieur de Poutrincourt sent back all his companions, but remained with eight +others at the settlement, so as to carry to France some grain not yet quite +ripe. [260] + +On the 10th of August, Mabretou arrived from the war, who told us that he +had been at Choüacoet, and had killed twenty savages and wounded ten or +twelve; also that Onemechin, chief of that place, Marchin, and one other, +had been killed by Sasinou, chief of the river of Quinibequy, who was +afterwards killed by the companions of Onemechin and Marchin. All this war +was simply on account of the savage Panounias, one of our friends who, as I +have said above, had been killed at Norumbegue by the followers of +Onemechin and Marchin. At present, the chiefs in place of Onemechin, +Marchin, and Sasinou are their sons: namely, for Sasinou, Pememen; Abriou +for his father, Marchin; and for Onemechin, Queconsicq. The two latter were +wounded by the followers of Mabretou, who seized them under pretence of +friendship, as is their fashion, something which both sides have to guard +against. [261] + +ENDNOTES: + +240. Lescarbot, the author of a History of New France often referred to in + our notes, published a volume entitled "LES MUSES DE LA NOUVELLE + FRANCE," in which may be found the play entitled LE THEATRE DE + NEPTUNE, which he composed to celebrate the return of this expedition. + +241. The mill is represented on Champlain's map of Port Royal as situated + on the stream which he calls _Rivière du Moulin_, the River of the + Mill. This is Allen River; and the site of the mill was a short + distance south-east of the "point where corn had been planted," which + was on the spot now occupied by the village of Annapolis. + +242. _Vide antea_, note 212. see also the map of Port Royal, where the road + is delineated, p. 24. + +243. This Indian Panounias and his wife had accompanied De Monts in 1605, + on his expedition to Cape Cod.--_Vide_ antea, p. 55. + +244. Now the Annapolis River. + +245. The conceit of this novel order was a happy one, as it served to + dispel the gloom of a long winter in the forests of La Cadie, as well + as to improve the quality and variety of their diet. The _noblesse_, + or gentlemen of the party, were fifteen, who served in turn and for a + single day as caterer or steward, the turn of each recurring once in + fifteen days. It was their duty to add to the ordinary fare such + delicate fish or game as could be captured or secured by each for his + particular day. They always had some delicacy at breakfast; but the + dinner was the great banquet, when the most imposing ceremony was + observed. + +246. Champlain does not inform us how many of Poutrincourt's party were + killed in the affray at Chatham. He mentions one as killed on the + spot. He speaks of carrying away the "dead bodies" for burial. He also + says they made a "deadly assault" upon "five or six of our company;" + and another appears to have died of his wounds after their return to + Port Royal, as stated in the text. + +247. _Une petite barque_. The French barque was a small vessel or large + boat, rigged with two masts; and those employed by De Monts along our + coast varied from six to eighteen tons burden, and must not be + confounded with our modern bark, which is generally much larger. + + The _vaisseau_, often mentioned by Champlain, included all large + vessels, those used for fishing, the fur-trade, and the transportation + of men and supplies for the colony. + + The _chaloupe_ was a row-boat of convenient size for penetrating + shallow places, was dragged behind the barque in the explorations of + our coast, and used for minor investigations of rivers and estuaries. + + The _patache_, an advice-boat, is rarely used by Champlain, and then + in the place of the shallop. + +248. It seems that young Chevalier had come out in the "Jonas," the same + ship that had brought out Poutrincourt, Lescarbot, and others, the + year before. It had stopped at Canseau to fish for cod. It brought the + unwelcome news that the company of De Monts had been broken up; that + the Hollanders, conducted by a "French traitor named La Jeunesse," had + destroyed the fur-trading establishments on the St. Lawrence, which + rendered it impracticable to sustain, as heretofore, the expenses of + the company. The monopoly of the fur-trade, granted to De Monts for + ten years, had been rescinded by the King's Council. "We were very + sad," says Lescarbot, "to see so fine and holy an undertaking broken + off, and that so many labors and perils endured had resulted in + nothing: and that the hope of establishing there the name of God and + the Catholic Faith had disappeared. Notwithstanding, after M. de + Poutrincourt had a long while mused hereupon, he said that, although + he should have none to come with him, except his family, he would not + forsake the enterprise."--_His. Nou. France_, par M. Lescarbot. + Paris, 1612. pp. 591-2. + +249. On the 16th of April, 1607, was born the second son of Henry IV. by + Marie de Medicis, who received the title, Le Duc d'Orléans. In France, + public rejoicings were universal. On the 22d of the month, he was + invested with the insignia of the Order of St. Michael and the Holy + Ghost with great pomp, on which occasion a banquet was given by the + King in the great hall at Fontainebleau, and in the evening the park + was illuminated by bonfires and a pyrotechnic display, which was + witnessed by a vast concourse of people. The young prince was baptized + privately by the Cardinal de Gondy, but the state ceremonies of his + christening were delayed, and appear never to have taken place: he + died in the fifth year of his age, never having received any Christian + name.--_Vide the Life of Marie de Medicis_, by Miss Pardoe, London, + 1852, Vol. I. p. 416; _Memoirs of the Duke of Sully_, Lennox, trans., + Phila., 1817, Vol. IV. p. 140. In New France, the little colony at + Port Royal attested their loyalty by suitable manifestations of + joy. "As the day declined," Says Lescarbot, "we made bonfires to + celebrate the birth of Monseigneur le Duc d'Orléans, and caused our + cannon and falconets to thunder forth again, accompanied with plenty + of musket-shots, having before for this purpose chanted a _Te Deum_." + --_Vide His. Nou. France_, Paris, 1612, p.594. + +250. Lescarbot says that about four hundred set out for the war against the + Almouchiquois, at Choüacoet, or Saco. The savages were nearly two + months in assembling themselves together. Mabretou had sent out his + two sons, Actaudin and Actaudinech, to summon them to come to Port + Royal as a rendezvous. They came from the river St. John, and from the + region of Gaspé. Their purpose was accomplished, as will appear in the + sequel. + +251. At St. John, they visited the cabin of Secondon, the Sagamore, with + whom they bartered for some furs. Lescarbot, who was in the + expedition, says, "The town of Ouïgoudy was a great enclosure upon a + hill, compassed about with high and small trees, tied one against + another; and within it many cabins, great and small, one of which was + as large as a market-hall, wherein many households resided." In the + cabin of Secondon. they saw some eighty or a hundred savages, all + nearly naked. They were celebrating a feast which they call _Tabagie_. + Their chief made his warriors pass in review before his guests.--_Vide + His. Nou. France_, par M. Lescarbot. Paris, 1612. p. 598. + +252. They found sack at St. Croix that had been left there by De Monts's + colony three years before, of which they drank. Casks were still lying + in the deserted court-yard: and others had been used as fuel by + mariners, who had chanced to come there. + +253. De Laet's map has C. de Poutrincourt; the map of the English and + French Commissaries, C. Fendu or split Cape. Halliburton has Split + Cape, so likewise has the Admiralty map of 1860. + + It is situated at the entrance of the Basin of Mines, and about eight + miles southwest of Parrsborough. The point of this cape is in latitude + 45° 20'. + +254. _Vide antea_, p. 26. + +255. The author is here speaking of the country about the Basin of Mines. + The river at the head of the bay is the Shubenacadie. It is not easy + to determine where the moss-covered cross was found. The distance from + Cap de Poutrincourt is indefinite, and the direction could not have + been exactly north. There is too much uncertainty to warrant even a + conjecture as to its locality. + +256. The port aux Mines is Advocate's Harbor.--_Vide antea_, p. 26, and + note 67. + +257. Niganis is a small Bay in the Island of Cape Breton, south of Cape + North: by De Laet called _Ninganis_; English, and French Commissaries, + _Niganishe_; modern maps, _Niganish_. + +258. The _3d of July_ was doubtless an error of the printer for the 30th, + as appears from the later date in the preceding paragraph, and the + statement of Lescarbot, that he left on the 30th of July. He says they + had one large barque, two small ones, and a shallop. One of the small + ones was sent before, while the other two followed on the 30th; and he + adds that Poutrincourt remained eleven days longer to await the + ripening of their grain, which agrees with Champlain's subsequent + statement, that he left with Poutrincourt on the 11th of + August.--_Vide His. Nou. France_, 1612, p. 603. + +259. The "Jonas."--_Vide antea_, p. 146. + +260. _Vide antea_, note 258. + +261. The implacable character of the American Indian is well illustrated in + this skirmish which took place at Saco. The old chief Mabretou, whose + life had been prolonged through several generations, had inspired his + allies to revenge, and had been present at the conflict. The Indian + Panounias had been killed in an affray, the particular cause of which + is not stated. To avenge his death, many lives were lost on both + sides. The two chiefs of Saco were slain, and in turn the author of + their death perished by the hand of their friends. Lescarbot informs + us that Champdoré, under Poutrincourt, subsequently visited Saco, and + concluded a formal peace between the belligerent parties, emphasizing + its importance by impressive forms, and ceremonies. + + + + +CHAPTER XVII. + +THE SETTLEMENT ABANDONED.--RETURN TO FRANCE OF SIEUR DE POUTRINCOURT AND +ALL HIS COMPANY. + +On the 11th of August, we set out from our settlement in a shallop, and +coasted along as far as Cape Fourchu, where I had previously been. + +Continuing our course along the coast as far as Cap de la Hève, where we +first landed with Sieur de Monts, on the 8th of May, 1604, [262] we +examined the coast from this place as far as Canseau, a distance of nearly +sixty leagues. This I had not yet done, and I observed it very carefully, +making a map of it as of the other coasts. + +Departing from Cap de la Hève, we went as far as Sesambre, an island so +called by some people from St. Malo, [263] and distant fifteen leagues from +La Hève. Along the route are a large number of islands, which we named Les +Martyres, [264] since some Frenchmen were once killed there by the savages. +These islands lie in several inlets and bays. In one of them is a river +named St. Marguerite, [265] distant seven leagues from Sesambre, which is +in latitude 44° 25'. The islands and coasts are thickly covered with pines, +firs, birches, and other trees of inferior quality. Fish and also fowl are +abundant. + +After leaving Sesambre, we passed a bay which is unobstructed, of seven or +eight leagues in extent, with no islands except at the extremity, where is +the mouth of a small river, containing but little water. [266] Then, +heading north-east a quarter east, we arrived at a harbor distant eight +leagues from Sesambre, which is very suitable for vessels of a hundred or a +hundred and twenty tons. At its entrance is an island from which one can +walk to the main land at low tide. We named this place Port Saincte +Helaine, [267] which is in latitude 44° 40' more or less. + +From this place we proceeded to a bay called La Baye de Toutes Isles, [268] +of some fourteen or fifteen leagues in extent, a dangerous place on account +of the presence of banks, shoals, and reefs. The country presents a very +unfavorable appearance, being filled with the same kind of trees which I +have mentioned before. Here we encountered bad weather. + +Hence we passed on near a river, six leagues distant, called Rivière de +l'Isle Verte,[269] there being a green island at its entrance. This short +distance which we traversed is filled with numerous rocks extending nearly +a league out to sea, where the breakers are high, the latitude being 45° +15'. + +Thence we went to a place where there is an inlet, with two or three +islands, and a very good harbor, [270] distant three leagues from l'Isle +Verte. We passed also by several islands near and in a line with each +other, which we named Isles Rangées, [271] and which are distant six or +seven leagues from l'Isle Verte. Afterwards we passed by another bay [272] +containing several islands, and proceeded to a place where we found a +vessel engaged in fishing between some islands, which are a short distance +from the main land, and distant four leagues from the Rangées. This place +we named Port de Savalette, [273] the name of the master of the vessel +engaged in fishing, a Basque, who entertained us bountifully; and was very +glad to see us, since there were savages there who purposed some harm to +him, which we prevented. [274] + +Leaving this place, we arrived on the 27th of the month at Canseau, distant +six leagues from Port de Savalette, having passed on our way a large number +of islands. At Canseau, we found that the three barques had arrived at port +in safety. Champdoré and Lescarbot came out to receive us. We also found +the vessel ready to sail, having finished its fishing and awaiting only +fair weather to return. Meanwhile, we had much enjoyment among these +islands, where we found the greatest possible quantity of raspberries. + +All the coast which we passed along from Cape Sable to this place is +moderately high and rocky, in most places bordered by numerous islands and +breakers, which extend out to sea nearly two leagues in places, and are +very unfavorable for the approach of vessels. Yet there cannot but be good +harbors and roadsteads along the coasts and islands, if they were explored. +As to the country, it is worse and less promising than in other places +which we had seen, except on some rivers or brooks, where it is very +pleasant; but there is no doubt that the winter in these regions is cold, +lasting from six to seven months. + +The harbor of Canseau [275] is a place surrounded by islands, +to which the approach is very difficult, except in fair weather, on account +of the rocks and breakers about it. Fishing, both green and dry, is carried +on here. + +From this place to the Island of Cape Breton, which is in latitude 45° 45' +and 14° 50' of the deflection of the magnetic needle, [276] it is eight +leagues, and to Cape Breton twenty-five. Between the two there is a large +bay, [277] extending Some nine or ten leagues into the interior and making +a passage between the Island of Cape Breton and the main land through to +the great Bay of St. Lawrence, by which they go to Gaspé and Isle Percée, +where fishing is carried on. This passage along the Island of Cape Breton +is very narrow. Although there is water enough, large vessels do not pass +there at all on account of the strong currents and the impetuosity of the +tides which prevail. This we named Le Passage Courant, [278] and it is in +latitude 45° 45'. + +The Island of Cape Breton is of a triangular shape, with a circuit of about +eighty leagues. Most of the country is mountainous, yet in some parts very +pleasant. In the centre of it there is a kind of lake, [279] where the sea +enters by the north a quarter north-west, and also by the south a quarter +Southeast. [280] Here are many islands filled with plenty of game, and +shell-fish of various kinds, including oysters, which, however, are not of +very good flavor. In this place there are two harbors, where fishing is +carried on; namely, Le Port aux Anglois, [281] distant from Cape Breton +some two or three leagues, and Niganis, eighteen or twenty leagues north a +quarter north-west. The Portuguese once made an attempt to settle this +island, and spent a winter here; but the inclemency of the season and the +cold caused them to abandon their settlement. + +On the 3rd of September, we set out from Canseau. On the 4th, we were off +Sable Island. On the 6th, we reached the Grand Bank, where the catching of +green fish is carried on, in latitude 45° 30'. On the 26th, we entered the +sound near the shores of Brittany and England, in sixty-five fathoms of +water and in latitude 49° 30'. On the 28th, we put in at Roscou, [282] in +lower Brittany, where we were detained by bad weather until the last day of +September, when, the wind coming round favorable, we put to sea in order to +pursue our route to St. Malo, [283] which formed the termination of these +voyages, in which God had guided us without shipwreck or danger. + + +END OF THE VOYAGES FROM THE YEAR 1604 TO 1608. + +ENDNOTES: + +262. _Vide antea_, p. 9 and note 22. + +263. Sesambre. This name was probably suggested by the little islet, + _Cézembre_, one of several on which are military works for the defence + of St. Malo. On De Laet's map of 1633, it is written _Sesembre_; on + that of Charlevoix. 1744, _Sincenibre_. It now appears on the + Admiralty maps corrupted into Sambro. There is a cape and a harbor + near this island which bear the same name. + +264. The islands stretching along from Cap de la Hève to Sambro Island are + called the _Martyres Iles_ on De Laet's map, 1633. + +265. The bay into which this river empties still retains the name of + St. Margaret. + +266. Halifax Harbor. Its Indian name was Chebucto, written on the map of + the English and French Commissaries _Shebûctû_. On Champlain's map, + 1612, as likewise on that of De Laet, 1633, it is called "_Baye + Senne_," perhaps from _saine_, signifying the unobstructed bay. + +267. Eight leagues from the Island Sesambre or Sambro Island would take + them to Perpisawick Inlet, which is doubtless _Le Port Saincte + Helaine_ of Champlain. The latitude of this harbor is 44° 41', + differing but a single minute from that of the text, which is + extraordinary, the usual variation being from ten to thirty minutes. + +268. Nicomtau Bay is fifteen leagues from Perpisawick Inlet, but _La Baye + de Toutes Isles_ is, more strictly speaking, an archipelago, extending + along the coast, say from Clam Bay to Liscomb Point, as may be seen by + reference to Champlain's map, 1612, and that of De Laet, 1633, + Cruxius, 1660, and of Charlevoix, 1744. The north-eastern portion of + this archipelago is now called, according to Laverdière, Island Bay. + +269. _Rivière de l'Isle Verte_, or Green Island River, is the River + St. Mary; and Green Island is Wedge Island near its mouth. The + latitude at the mouth of the river is 45° 3'. This little island is + called _I. Verte_ on De Laet's map, and likewise on that of + Charlevoix; on the map of the English and French Commissaries, Liscomb + or Green Island. + +270. This inlet has now the incongruous name of Country Harbor: the three + islands at its mouth are Harbor, Goose, and Green Islands. The inlet + is called Mocodome on Charlevoix's map. + +271. There are several islets on the east of St. Catharine's River, near + the shore, which Laverdière suggests are the _Isles Rangées_. They + are exceedingly small, and no name is given them on the Admiralty + charts. + +272. Tor Bay. + +273. _Le Port de Savalette_. Obviously White Haven, which is four leagues + from the Rangées and six from Canseau, as stated in the text. + Lescarbot gives a very interesting account of Captain Savalette, the + old Basque fisherman, who had made forty-two voyages into these + waters. He had been eminently successful in fishing, having taken + daily, according to his own account, fifty crowns' worth of codfish, + and expected his voyage would yield, ten thousand francs. His vessel + was of eighty tons burden, and could take in a hundred thousand dry + codfish. He was well known, and a great favorite with the voyagers to + this coast. He was from St. Jean de Luz, a small seaport town in the + department of the Lower Pyrenees in France, near the borders of Spain, + distinguished even at this day for its fishing interest. + +274. The Indians were in the habit of selecting from day to day the best of + Savalette's fish when they came in, and appropriating them to their + own use, _nolens volens_. + +275. _Canseau_. Currency has been given to an idle fancy that this name was + derived from that of a French navigator, but it has been abundantly + disproved by the Abbé Laverdière. It is undoubtedly a word of Indian + origin. + +276. The variation of the magnetic needle in 1871, fifteen miles South of + the Harbor of Canseau, was, according to the Admiralty charts, 23 + degrees west. The magnetic needle was employed in navigation as early + as the year 1200, and its variation had been discovered before the + time of Columbus. But for a long period its variation was supposed to + be fixed; that is to say, was supposed to be always the same in the + same locality. A few years before Champlain made his voyages to + America, it was discovered that its variation in Paris was not fixed, + but that it changed from year to year. If Champlain was aware of this, + his design in noting its exact variation, as he did at numerous points + on our coast, may have been to furnish data for determining at some + future day whether the variation were changeable here as well as in + France. But, whether he was aware of the discovery then recently made + in Paris or not, he probably intended, by noting the declination of + the needle, to indicate his longitude, at least approximately. + +277. Chedabucto Bay. + +278. The Strait of Canseau. Champlain gives it on his map, 1612. _Pasage du + glas;_ De Laet, 1633, _Passage du glas;_ Creuxius, 1660, Fretum + Campseium; Charlevoix, 1744, _Passage de Canceau_. It appears from the + above that the early name was soon superseded by that which it now + bears. + +279. Now called _La Bras d'Or_, The Golden Arm. + +280. There is, in fact, no passage of La Bras d'Or on the south-west; and + Champlain corrects his error, as may be seen by reference to his map + of 1612. It may also be stated that the sea enters from the + north-east. _Nordouest_ in the original is here probably a + typographical error for _nordest_. There are, indeed, two passages, + both on the north-east, distinguished as the Great and the Little Bras + d'Or. + +281. _Le Port aux Anglois_, the Harbor of the English. On De Laet's map, + Port aux Angloix. This is the Harbor of Louisburgh, famous in the + history of the Island of Cape Breton. + +282. Roscofs, a small seaport town. On Mercator's Atlas of 1623, it is + written Roscou, as in the text. + +283. According to Lescarbot, they remained at St. Malo eight days, when + they went in a barque to Honfleur, narrowly escaping + shipwreck. Poutrincourt proceeded to Paris, where he exhibited to + Henry IV. corn, wheat, rye, barley, and oats, products of the colony + which he had so often promised to cherish, but whose means of + subsistence he had now nevertheless ungraciously taken away. + Poutrincourt also presented to him five _oustards_, or wild geese, + which he had bred from the shell. The king was greatly delighted with + them, and had them preserved at Fontainebleau. These exhibitions of + the products of New France had the desired effect upon the generous + heart of Henry IV.; and De Monts's monopoly of the fur-trade was + renewed for one year, to furnish some slight aid in establishing his + colonies in New France. + + + + +THE VOYAGES +TO THE +GREAT RIVER ST. LAWRENCE, +MADE BY +SIEUR DE CHAMPLAIN, +CAPTAIN IN ORDINARY TO THE KING IN THE MARINE, +FROM THE YEAR 1608 TO THAT OF 1612. + + + +CHAPTER I. + +DETERMINATION OF SIEUR DE MONTS TO MAKE EXPLORATIONS IN THE INTERIOR; HIS +COMMISSION, AND ITS INFRINGEMENT BY THE BASQUES, WHO DISARMED THE VESSEL OF +PONT GRAVÉ; AND THE AGREEMENT BETWEEN THEM WHICH THEY SUBSEQUENTLY MADE. + + +Having returned to France after a stay of three years in New France, [283] +I proceeded to Sieur de Monts, and related to him the principal events of +which I had been a witness since his departure, and gave him the map and +plan of the most remarkable coasts and harbors there. + +Some time afterward, Sieur de Monts determined to continue his undertaking, +and complete the exploration of the interior along the great river +St. Lawrence, where I had been by order of the late King Henry the Great +[284] in the year 1603, for a distance of some hundred and eighty leagues, +commencing in latitude 48° 40', that is, at Gaspé, at the entrance of the +river, as far as the great fall, which is in latitude 45° and some minutes, +where our exploration ended, and where boats could not pass as we then +thought, since we had not made a careful examination of it as we have since +done. [285] + +Now after Sieur de Monts had conferred with me several times in regard to +his purposes concerning the exploration, he resolved to continue so noble +and meritorious an undertaking, notwithstanding the hardships and labors of +the past. He honored me with his lieutenancy for the voyage; and, in order +to carry out his purpose, he had two vessels equipped, one commanded by +Pont Gravé, who was commissioned to trade with the savages of the country +and bring back the vessels, while I was to winter in the country. + +Sieur de Monts, for the purpose of defraying the expenses of the +expedition, obtained letters from his Majesty for one year, by which all +persons were forbidden to traffic in peltry with the savages, on penalties +stated in the following commission:-- + + +HENRY BY THE GRACE OF GOD KING OF FRANCE AND NAVARRE, to our beloved and +faithful Councillors, the officers of our Admiralty in Normandy, Brittany, +and Guienne, bailiffs, marshals, prevosts, judges, or their lieutenants, +and to each one of them, according to his authority, throughout the extent +of their powers, jurisdictions, and precincts, greeting: + +Acting upon the information which has been given us by those who have +returned from New France, respecting the good quality and fertility of the +lands of that country, and the disposition of the people to accept the +knowledge of God, We have resolved to continue the settlement previously +undertaken there, in order that our subjects may go there to trade without +hinderance. And in view of the proposition to us of Sieur de Monts, +Gentleman in Ordinary of our chamber, and our Lieutenant-General in that +country, to make a settlement, on condition of our giving him means and +supplies for sustaining the expense of it, [286] it has pleased us to +promise and assure him that none of our subjects but himself shall be +permitted to trade in peltry and other merchandise, for the period of one +year only, in the lands, regions, harbors, rivers, and highways throughout +the extent of his jurisdiction: this We desire to have fulfilled. For these +causes and other considerations impelling us thereto, We command and decree +that each one of you, throughout the extent of your powers, jurisdictions, +and precincts, shall act in our stead and carry out our will in distinctly +prohibiting and forbidding all merchants, masters, and captains of vessels, +also sailors and others of our subjects, of whatever rank and profession, +to fit out any vessels, in which to go themselves or send others in order +to engage in trade or barter in peltry and other things with the savages of +New France, to visit, trade, or communicate with them during the space of +one year, within the jurisdiction of Sieur de Monts, on penalty of +disobedience, and the entire confiscation of their vessels, supplies, arms, +and merchandise for the benefit of Sieur de Monts; and, in order that the +punishment of their disobedience may be assured, you will allow, as We have +and do allow, the aforesaid Sieur de Monts or his lieutenants to seize, +apprehend, and arrest all violators of our present prohibition and order, +also their vessels, merchandise, arms, supplies, and victuals, in order to +take and deliver them up to the hands of justice, so that action may be +taken not only against the persons, but also the property of the offenders, +as the case shall require. This is our will, and We bid you to have it at +once read and published in all localities and public places within your +authority and jurisdiction, as you may deem necessary, by the first one of +our officers or sergeants in accordance with this requisition, by virtue of +these presents, or a copy of the same, properly attested once only by one +of our well-beloved and faithful councillors, notaries, and secretaries, to +which it is Our will that credence should be given as to the present +original, in order that none of our subjects may claim ground for +ignorance, but that all may obey and act in accordance with Our will in +this matter. We order, moreover, all captains of vessels, mates, and second +mates, and sailors of the same, and others on board of vessels or ships in +the ports and harbors of the aforesaid country, to permit, as We have done, +Sieur de Monts, and others possessing power and authority from him, to +search the aforesaid vessels which shall have engaged in the fur-trade +after the present prohibition shall have been made known to them. It is Our +will that, upon the requisition, of the aforesaid Sieur de Monts, his +lieutenants, and others having authority, you should proceed against the +disobedient and offenders, as the case may require: to this end. We give +you power, authority, commission, and special mandate, notwithstanding the +act of our Council of the 17th day of July last, [287] any hue and cry, +Norman charter, accusation, objection, or appeals of whatsoever kind; on +account of which, and for fear of disregarding which, it is Our will that +there should be no delay, and, if any of these occur, We have withheld and +reserved cognizance of the same to Ourselves and our Council, apart from +all other judges, and have forbidden and prohibited the same to all our +courts and judges: for this is Our pleasure. + +Given at Paris the seventh day of January, in the year of grace, sixteen +hundred and eight, and the nineteenth of Our reign. Signed, HENRY. + + +And lower down, By the King, Delomenie. And sealed with the single label of +the great seal of yellow wax. + +Collated with the original by me, Councillor, Notary, and secretary of the +King. + +I proceeded to Honfleur for embarkation, where I found the vessel of Pont +Gravé in readiness. He left port on the 5th of April. I did so on the 13th, +arriving at the Grand Bank on the 15th of May, in latitude 45° 15'. On the +26th, we sighted Cape St. Mary,[288] in latitude 46° 45', on the Island of +Newfoundland. On the 27th of the month, we sighted Cape St. Lawrence, on +Cape Breton, and also the Island of St. Paul, distant eighty-three leagues +from Cape St. Mary.[289] On the 30th, we sighted Isle Percée and +Gaspé,[290] in latitude 48° 40', distant from Cape St. Lawrence from +seventy to seventy-five leagues. + +On the 3d of June, we arrived before Tadoussac, distant from Gaspé from +eighty to ninety leagues; and we anchored in the roadstead of +Tadoussac,[291] a league distant from the harbor, which latter is a kind of +cove at the mouth of the river Saguenay, where the tide is very remarkable +on account of its rapidity, and where there are sometimes violent winds, +bringing severe cold. It is maintained that from the harbor of Tadoussac it +is some forty-five or fifty leagues to the first fall on this river, which +comes from the north-north-west. The harbor is small, and can accommodate +only about twenty vessels. It has water enough, and is under shelter of the +river Saguenay and a little rocky island; which is almost cut by the river; +elsewhere there are very high mountains with little soil and only rocks and +sand, thickly covered with such wood as fir and birch. There is a small +pond near the harbor, shut in by mountains covered with wood. There are two +points at the mouth: one on the south-west side, extending out nearly a +league into the sea, called Point St. Matthew, or otherwise Point aux +Allouettes; and another on the north-west side, extending out one-eighth of +a league, and called Point of all Devils.[292] from the dangerous nature of +the place. The winds from the south-south-east strike the harbor, which are +not to be feared; but those, however, from the Saguenay are. The two points +above mentioned are dry at low tide: our vessel was unable to enter the +harbor, as the wind and tide were unfavorable. I at once had the boat +lowered, in order to go to the port and ascertain whether Pont Gravé had +arrived. While on the way, I met a shallop with the pilot of Pont Gravé and +a Basque, who came to inform me of what had happened to them because they +attempted to hinder the Basque vessels from trading, according to the +commission obtained by Sieur de Monts from his Majesty, that no vessels +should trade without permission of Sieur de Monts, as was expressed in it; +and that, notwithstanding the notifications which Pont Gravé made in behalf +of his Majesty, they did not desist from forcibly carrying on their +traffic; and that they had used their arms and maintained themselves so +well in their vessel that, discharging all their cannon upon that of Pont +Gravé, and letting off many musket-shots, he was severely wounded, together +with three of his men, one of whom died, Pont Gravé meanwhile making no +resistance; for at the first shower of musketry he was struck down. The +Basques came on board of the vessel and took away all the cannon and arms, +declaring that they would trade, notwithstanding the prohibition of the +King, and that when they were ready to set out for France they would +restore to him his cannon and ammunition, and that they were keeping them +in order to be in a state of security. Upon hearing all these particulars, +I was greatly annoyed at such a beginning, which we might have easily +avoided. + +Now, after hearing from the pilot all these things, I asked him why the +Basque had come on board of our vessel. He told me that he came in behalf +of their master, named Darache, and his companions, to obtain assurance +from me that I would do them no harm, when our vessel entered the harbor. + +I replied that I could not give any until I had seen Pont Gravé. The Basque +said that, if I had need of any thing in their power, they would assist me +accordingly. What led them to use this language was simply their +recognition of having done wrong, as they confessed, and the fear that they +would not be permitted to engage in the whale-fishery. After talking at +length, I went ashore to see Pont Gravé, in order to deliberate as to what +was to be done. I found him very ill. He related to me in detail all that +had happened. We concluded that we could only enter the harbor by force, +and that the settlement must not be given up for this year, so that we +considered it best, in order not to make a bad cause out of a just one, and +thus work our ruin, to give them assurances on my part so long as I should +remain there, and that Pont Gravé should undertake nothing against them, +but that justice should be done in France, and their differences should be +settled there. + +Darache, master of the vessel, begged me to go on board, where he gave me a +cordial reception. After a long conference, I secured an agreement between +Pont Gravé and him, and required him to promise that he would undertake +nothing against Pont Gravé, or what would be prejudicial to the King and +Sieur de Monts; that, if he did the contrary, I should regard my promise as +null and void. This was agreed to, and signed by each. + +In this place were a number of savages who had come for traffic in furs, +several of whom came to our vessel with their canoes, which are from eight +to nine paces long, and about a pace or pace and a half broad in the +middle, growing narrower towards the two ends. They are very apt to turn +over, in case one does not understand managing them, and are made of birch +bark, strengthened on the inside by little ribs of white cedar, very neatly +arranged; they are so light that a man can easily carry one. Each can carry +a weight equal to that of a pipe. When they want to go overland to a river +where they have business, they carry them with them. From Choüacoet along +the coast as far as the harbor of Tadoussac, they are all alike. + + +ENDNOTES: + +283. Champlain arrived on the shores of America on the 8th of May, 1604, + and left on the 3rd of September, 1607. He had consequently been on + our coast three years, three months, and twenty-five days. + +284. _The late King Henry the Great_. Henry IV. died in 1610, and this + introductory passage was obviously written after that event, probably + near the time of the publication of his voyages in 1613. + +285. In the preliminary voyage of 1603, Champlain ascended the St. Lawrence + as far as the falls of St. Louis, above Montreal. + +286. The contribution by Henry IV. did not probably extend beyond the + monopoly of the fur-trade granted by him in this commission. + +287. This, we presume, was the act abrogating the charter of De Monts + granted in 1603. + +288. This cape still retains its ancient name, and is situated between + St. Mary's Bay and Placentia Bay. + +289. Cape St. Lawrence is the northernmost extremity of the Island of Cape + Breton, and the Island of St. Paul is twenty miles north-east of it. + +290. The Isle Percée, or pierced island, is a short distance north of the + Island of Bonaventure, at the entrance of Mal Bay, near the village of + Percée, where there is a government light. Gaspé Bay is some miles + farther north. "Below the bay," says Charlevoix, "we perceive a kind + of island, which is only a steep rock about thirty fathoms long, ten + high, and four in breadth: it looks like part of an old wall, and they + say it joined formerly to _Mount Ioli_, which is over against it on + the continent. This rock has in the midst of it an opening like an + arch, under which a boat of Biscay may pass with its sail up, and this + has given it the name of the _pierced island_."--_Letters to the + Duchess of Lesdiguières_, by Francis Xavier de Charlevoix, London, + 1763, p. 12. + +291. The position in the roadstead was south-east of the harbor, so that + the harbor was seen on the north-west. Charlevoix calls it Moulin + Baude. The reader will find the position indicated by the letter M on + Champlain's map of the Port of Tadoussac. Baude Moulin (Baude Mill), + directly north of it, was probably a mill _privilege_. Charlevoix, in + 1720, anchored there, and asked them to show him the mill; and they + showed him some rocks, from which issued a stream of clear water. He + adds, they might build a water-mill here, but probably it will never + be done. + +292. _Pointe de tous les Diables_. Now known as Pointe aux Vaches, _cows_. + The point on the other side of the river is still called Pointe aux + Alouettes, or Lark Point. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +OF THE RIVER SAGUENAY, AND THE SAVAGES WHO VISITED US THERE.--OF THE ISLAND +OF ORLEANS, AND ALL THAT WE OBSERVED THERE WORTHY OF NOTE. + +After this agreement, I had some carpenters set to work to fit up a little +barque of twelve or fourteen tons, for carrying all that was needed for our +settlement, which, however, could not be got ready before the last of June. + +Meanwhile, I managed to visit some parts of the river Saguenay, a fine +river, which has the incredible depth of some one hundred and fifty to two +hundred fathoms. [293] About fifty leagues from the mouth of the harbor, +there is, as is said, a great waterfall, descending from a very high +elevation with great impetuosity. There are some islands in this river, +very barren, being only rocks covered with small firs and heathers. It is +half a league broad in places, and a quarter of a league at its mouth, +where the current is so strong that at three-quarters flood-tide in the +river it is still running out. All the land that I have seen consists only +of mountains and rocky promontories, for the most part covered with fir and +birch, a very unattractive country on both sides of the river. In a word, +it is mere wastes, uninhabited by either animals or birds; for, going out +hunting in places which seemed to me the most pleasant, I found only some +very small birds, such as swallows and river birds, which go there in +summer. At other times, there are none whatever, in consequence of the +excessive cold. This river flows from the north-west. + +The savages told me that, after passing the first fall, they meet with +eight others, when they go a day's journey without finding any. Then they +pass ten others, and enter a lake, [294] which they are three days in +crossing, and they are easily able to make ten leagues a day up stream. At +the end of the lake there dwells a migratory people. Of the three rivers +which flow into this lake, one comes from the north, very near the sea, +where they consider it much colder than in their own country; and the other +two from other directions in the interior, [295] where are migratory +savages, living only from hunting, and where our savages carry the +merchandise we give them for their furs, such as beaver, marten, lynx, and +otter, which are found there in large numbers, and which they then carry to +our vessels. These people of the north report to our savages that they see +the salt sea; and, if that is true, as I think it certainly is, it can be +nothing but a gulf entering the interior on the north. [296] The savages +say that the distance from the north sea to the port of Tadoussac is +perhaps forty-five or fifty days' journey, in consequence of the +difficulties presented by the roads, rivers, and country, which is very +mountainous, and where there is snow for the most part of the year. This is +what I have definitely ascertained in regard to this river. I have often +wished to explore it, but could not do so without the savages, who were +unwilling that I or any of our party should accompany them. Nevertheless, +they have promised that I shall do so. This exploration would be desirable, +in order to remove the doubts of many persons in regard to the existence of +this sea on the north, where it is maintained that the English have gone in +these latter years to find a way to China. [297] + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +PORT DE TADOUCAC. + +_The figures indicate the fathoms of water_. + +_A_. A round mountain on the bank of the river Saguenay. +_B_. The harbor of Tadoussac. +_C_. A small fresh-water brook. +_D_. The encampment of the savages when they come to traffic. +_E_. A peninsula partly enclosing the port of the river Saguenay. +_F_. Point of All Devils. +_G_. The river Saguenay. +_H_. Point aux Alouettes. +_I_. Very rough mountains covered with firs and beeches. +_L_. The mill Bode. +_M_. The roadstead where vessels anchor while waiting for wind and tide. +_N_. A little pond near the harbor. +_O_. A small brook coming from the pond and flowing into the Saguenay. +_P_. Place without trees near the point where there is a quantity of grass. + + * * * * * + +I set out from Tadoussac the last day of the month to go to Quebec. [298] +We passed near an island called Hare Island, [299] distant six leagues from +the above-named port: it is two leagues from the northern, and nearly four +leagues from the southern shore. From Hare Island we proceeded to a little +river, dry at low tide, up which some seven hundred or eight hundred paces +there are two falls. We named it Salmon River, [300] since we caught some +of these fish in it. Coasting along the north shore, we came to a point +extending into the river, which we called Cap Dauphin, [301] distant three +leagues from Salmon River. Thence we proceeded to another, which we named +Eagle Cape, [302] distant eight leagues from Cap Dauphin. Between the two +there is a large bay, [303] at the extremity of which is a little river dry +at low tide. From Eagle Cape, we proceeded to Isle aux Coudres, [304] a +good league distant, which is about a league and a half long. It is nearly +level, and grows narrower towards the two ends. On the western end there +are meadows, and rocky points extending some distance out into the river. +On the south-west side it is very reefy, yet very pleasant in consequence +of the woods surrounding it. It is distant about half a league from the +northern shore, where is a little river extending some distance into the +interior. We named it Rivière du Gouffre, [305] since abreast of it the +tide runs with extraordinary rapidity; and, although it has a calm +appearance, it is always much agitated, the depth there being great: but +the river itself is shallow, and there are many rocks at and about its +mouth. Coasting along from Isle aux Coudres, we reached a cape which we +named Cap de Tourmente, [306] five leagues distant; and we gave it this +name because, however little wind there may be, the water rises there as if +it were full tide. At this point, the water begins to be fresh. Thence we +proceeded to the Island of Orleans, [307] a distance of two leagues, on the +south side of which are numerous islands, low, covered with trees and very +pleasant, with large meadows, having plenty of game, some being, so far as +I could judge, two leagues in length, others a trifle more or less. About +these islands are many rocks, also very dangerous shallows, some two +leagues distant from the main land on the South. All this shore, both north +and South, from Tadoussac to the Island of Orleans, is mountainous, and the +soil very poor. The wood is pine, fir, and birch only, with very ugly +rocks, so that in most places one could not make his way. + +Now we passed along south of the Island of Orleans, which is a league and a +half distant from the main land and half a league on the north side, being +six leagues in length, and one in breadth, or in some places a league and a +half. On the north side, it is very pleasant, on account of the great +extent of woods and meadows there; but it is very dangerous sailing, in +consequence of the numerous points and rocks between the main land and +island, on which are numerous fine oaks and in some places nut-trees, and +on the borders of the woods vines and other trees such as we have in +France. This place is the commencement of the fine and fertile country of +the great river, and is distant one hundred and twenty leagues from its +mouth. Off the end of the island is a torrent of water on the north shore, +proceeding from a lake ten leagues in the interior: [308] it comes down +from a height of nearly twenty-five fathoms, above which the land is level +and pleasant, although farther inland are seen high mountains appearing to +be from fifteen to twenty leagues distant. + + +ENDNOTES: + +293. The deepest sounding as laid down on Laurie's Chart is one hundred and + forty-six fathoms. The same authority says the banks of the river + throughout its course are very rocky, and vary in height from one + hundred and seventy to three hundred and forty yards above the stream. + Its current is broad, deep, and uncommonly vehement: in some places, + where precipices intervene, are falls from fifty to sixty feet in + height, down which the whole volume of water rushes with tremendous + fury and noise. The general breadth of the river is about two and a + half miles, but at its mouth its width is contracted to three-quarters + of a mile. The tide runs upward about sixty-five miles from its mouth. + +294. If the Indians were three days in crossing Lake St. John here referred + to, whose length is variously stated to be from twenty-five to forty + miles, it could hardly have been the shortest time in which it were + possible to pass it. It may have been the usual time, some of which + they gave to fishing or hunting. "In 1647, Father Jean Duquen, + missionary at Tadoussac, ascending the Saguenay, discovered the Lake + St. John, and noted its Indian name, Picouagami, or Flat Lake. He was + the first European who beheld that magnificent expanse of inland + water."--_Vide Transactions, Lit. and His. Soc. of Quebec_, 1867-68, + p. 5. + +295. The first of these three rivers, which the traveller will meet as he + passes up the northern shore of the lake, is the Peribonca flowing + from the north-east. The second is the Mistassina, represented by the + Indians as coming from the salt sea. The third is the Chomouchonan, + flowing from the north-west. + +296. There was doubtless an Indian trail from the head-waters of the + Mistassina to Mistassin Lake, and from thence to Rupert River, which + flows into the lower part of Hudson's Bay. + +297. The salt sea referred to by the Indians was undoubtedly Hudson's Bay. + The discoverer of this bay, Henry Hudson, in the years 1607, 1608, and + 1609, was in the northern ocean searching for a passage to Cathay. In + 1610, he discovered the strait and bay which now bear his name. He + passed the winter in the southern part of the bay; and the next year, + 1611, his sailors in a mutiny forced him and his officers into a + shallop and abandoned them to perish. Nothing was heard of them + afterward. The fame of Hudson's discovery had reached Champlain + before the publication of this volume in 1613. This will be apparent + by comparing Champlain's small map with the TABULA NAUTICA of Hudson, + published in 1612. It will be seen that the whole of the Carte + Géographique de la Nouvelle France of Champlain, on the west of + Lumley's Inlet, including Hudson's Strait and Bay, is a copy from the + Tabula Nautica. Even the names are in English, a few characteristic + ones being omitted, such as Prince Henry, the King's Forlant, and Cape + Charles.--_Vide Henry Hudson the Navigator_, by G. M. Asher, LL.D., + Hakluyt Society, 1860, p. xliv. + +298. This was June 30, 1608. + +299. _Isle aux Lièvres_, or hares. This name was given by Jacques Cartier, + and it is still called Hare Island. It is about ten geographical miles + long, and generally about half or three-quarters of a mile wide. + +300. _Rivière aux Saulmons_. "From all appearances," says Laverdière, "this + Salmon River is that which empties into the 'Port à l'Équilles,' eel + harbor, also called 'Port aux Quilles,' Skittles Port. Its mouth is + two leagues from Cape Salmon, with which it must not be confounded." + It is now known as Black River. + +301. _Cap Dauphin_, now called Cape Salmon, which is about three leagues + from Black River. + +302. _Cap à l'Aigle_, now known as Cap aux Oies, or Goose Cape. The Eagle + Cape of to-day is little more than two leagues from Cape Salmon, while + Goose Cape is about eight leagues, as stated in the text. + +303. The bay stretching between Cape Salmon and Goose Cape is called Mal + Bay, within which are Cape Eagle, Murray Bay, Point au Ries, White + Cape, Red Cape, Black Cape, Point Père, Point Corneille, and Little + Mal Bay. In the rear of Goose Cape are Les Éboulemens Mountains, 2,547 + feet in height. On the opposite side of the river is Point Ouelle, and + the river of the same name. + +304. _Isle aux Coudres_, Hazel Island, so named by Jacques Cartier, still + retains its ancient appellation. Its distance from Goose Cape is about + two leagues. The description of it in the text is very accurate. + +305. _Rivière du Gouffre_. This river still retains this name, signifying + whirlpool, and is the same that empties into St. Paul's Bay, opposite + Isle-aux Coudres. + +306. _Cap de Tourmente_, cape of the tempest, is eight leagues from Isle + aux Coudres, but about two from the Isle of Orleans, as stated in the + text, which sufficiently identifies it. + +307. _Isle d'Orléans_. Cartier discovered this island in 1635, and named it + the Island of Bacchus, because he saw vines growing there, which he + had not before seen in that region. He says, "Et pareillement y + trouuasmes force vignes, ce que n'auyons veu par cy deuant à toute la + terre, & par ce la nommasmes l'ysle de Bacchus."--_Brief Récit de la + Navigation Faite en MDXXXV._, par Jacques Cartier, D'Avezac ed., + Paris, 1863, pp. 14, 15. The grape found here was probably the Frost + Grape, _Vitis cordifolia_. The "Island of Orleans" soon became the + fixed name of this island, which it still retains. Its Indian name is + said to have been _Minigo_.--_Vide_ Laverdière's interesting note, + _Oeuvres de Champlain_, Tome II, p. 24. Champlain's estimate of the + size of the island is nearly accurate. It is, according to the + Admiralty charts, seventeen marine miles in length, and four in its + greatest width. + +308. This was the river Montmorency, which rises in Snow Lake, some fifty + miles in the interior.--_Vide_ Champlain's reference on his map of + Quebec and its environs. He gave this name to the river, which it + still retains, in honor of the Admiral Montmorency, to whom he + dedicated his notes on the voyage of 1603.--_Vide Laverdière_, in + loco; also _Champlain_, ed. 1632; _Chiarlevoix's Letters_, London, + 1763, p. 19. The following is Jean Alfonse's description of the fall + of Montmorency: "When thou art come to the end of the Isle, thou shall + see a great River, which falleth fifteene or twenty fathoms downe from + a rocke, and maketh a terrible noyse."--_Hakluyt, Vol. III. p. 293. + The perpendicular descent of the Montmorency at the falls is 240 feet. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +ARRIVAL AT QUEBEC, WHERE WE CONSTRUCTED OUR PLACE OF ABODE; ITS SITUATION. +--CONSPIRACY AGAINST THE SERVICE OF THE KING AND MY LIFE. BY SOME OF OUR +MEN--PUNISHMENT OF THEM, AND ALL THAT TRANSPIRED OF THE AFFAIR. + + +From the Island of Orleans to Quebec the distance is a league. I arrived +there on the 3d of July, when I searched for a place suitable for our +settlement, but I could find none more convenient or better situated than +the point of Quebec, so called by the savages, [309] which was covered with +nut-trees. I at once employed a portion of our workmen in cutting them +down, that we might construct our habitation there: one I set to sawing +boards, another to making a cellar and digging ditches, another I sent to +Tadoussac with the barque to get supplies. The first thing we made was the +storehouse for keeping under cover our supplies, which was promptly +accomplished through the zeal of all, and my attention to the work. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +QUEBEC. + +_The figures indicate the fathoms of water_. + +_A_. The site where our habitation is built. [Note 1] +_B_. Cleared land where we sow wheat and other grain. [Note 2] +_C_. The gardens.[Note 3] +_D_. Small brook coming from marshes. [Note 4] +_E_. River where Jacques Cartier passed the winter, which in his time he + called St. Croix, and which name has been transferred to a place + fifteen leagues above Quebec. [Note 5] +_F_. River of the marshes. [Note 6] +_G_. Place where was collected the grass for the animals brought here. + [Note 7] +_H_. The grand fall of Montmorency, which descends from a height of more + than twenty-five fathoms into the river. [Note 8] +_I_. The end of the Island of Orleans. +_L_. A very narrow point on the shore east of Quebec. [Note 9] +_M_. Roaring river which extends to the Etechemins. +_N_. The great river of St. Lawrence. +_O_. Lake in the roaring river. +_P_. Mountains in the interior; bay which I named New Biscay, +_q_. Lake of the great fall of Montmorency. [Note 10] +_R_. Bear Brook. [Note 11] +_S_. Brook du Gendre. [Note 12] +_T_. Meadows overflowed at every tide. +_V_. Mont du Gas, very high, situated on the bank of the river. [Note 13] +_X_. Swift brook, adapted to all kinds of mills. +_Y_. Gravelly shore where a quantity of diamonds are found somewhat better + than those of Alanson. +_Z_. The Point of Diamonds. +_9_. Places where the savages often build their cabins. [Note 14] + +NOTES. The following notes on Champlain's explanation of his map of Quebec +are by the Abbé Laverdière, whose accurate knowledge of that city and its +environs renders them especially valuable. They are given entire, with only +slight modifications. + +1. That is properly the point of Quebec, including what is at present + enclosed by La Place, the street Notre Dame, and the river. + +2. This first clearing must have been what was called later the Esplanade + du Fort, or Grande Place, or perhaps both. The Grande Place became, in + 1658, the fort of the Hurons: it was the space included between the Côte + of the lower town and the Rue du Fort. + +3. A little above the gardens, on the slope of the Côte du Saut au Matelot, + a cross is seen, which seems to indicate that at that time the cemetery + was where it is said to be when it is mentioned some years later for the + first time. + +4. According to the old plans of Quebec, these marshes were represented to + be west of Mont Carmel, and at the foot of the glacis of the Citadel. + The brook pulled eastward of the grounds of the Ursulines and Jésuites, + followed for some distance the Rue de la Fabrique as far as the + enclosure of the Hôtel Dieu, to the east of which it ran down the hill + towards the foot of the Côte de la Canoterie. + +5. The river St. Charles. The letter E does not indicate precisely the + place where Jacques Cartier wintered, but only the mouth of the river. + +6. Judging from the outlines of the shore, this brook, which came from the + south-west, flowed into the harbor of the Palais, towards the western + extremity of the Parc. + +7. This is probably what was called later the barn of the Messieurs de la + Compagnie, or simply La Grange, and appears to have been somewhere on + the avenue of Mont Carmel. + +8. The fall of Montmorency is forty fathoms or two hundred and forty French + feet, or even more. + +9. Hence it is seen that in 1613 this point had as yet no name. In 1629, + Champlain calls it Cap de Lévis: it can accordingly be concluded that + this point derives its name from that of the Duc de Ventadour, Henri de + Lévis, and that it must have been so named between the years 1625 and + 1627, the time when he was regent. + +10. The Lake of the Snows is the source of the western branch of the + Rivière du Saut. + +11. La Rivière de Beauport, which is called likewise La Distillerie. + +12. Called later Ruisseau de la Cabaneaux Taupiers. Rivière Chalisour, and + finally Rivière des Fous, from the new insane asylum, by the site of + which it now passes. + +13. Height where is now situated the bastion of the Roi à la Citadelle. + This name was given it, doubtless, in memory of M. de Monts, Pierre du + Guast. + +14. This figure appears not only at the Point du Cap Diamant, but also + along the shore of Beauport, and at the end of the Island of Orleans. + + * * * * * + +Some days after my arrival at Quebec, a locksmith conspired against the +service of the king. His plan was to put me to death, and, getting +possession of our fort, to put it into the hands of the Basques or +Spaniards, then at Tadoussac, beyond which vessels cannot go, from not +having a knowledge of the route, nor of the banks and rocks on the way. + +In order to execute his wretched plan, by which he hoped to make his +fortune, he suborned four of the worst characters, as he supposed, telling +them a thousand falsehoods, and presenting to them prospects of acquiring +riches. + +These four men, having been won over, all promised to act in such a manner +as to gain the rest over to their side; so that, for the time being, I had +no one with me in whom I could put confidence, which gave them still more +hope of making their plan succeed: for four or five of my companions, in +whom they knew that I put confidence, were on board of the barques, for the +purpose of protecting the provisions and supplies necessary for our +settlement. + +In a word, they were so skilful in carrying out their intrigues with those +who remained, that they were on the point of gaining all over to their +cause, even my lackey, promising them many things which they could not have +fulfilled. + +Being now all agreed, they made daily different plans as to how they should +put me to death, so as not to be accused of it, which they found to be a +difficult thing. But the devil, blindfolding them all and taking away their +reason and every possible difficulty, they determined to take me while +unarmed, and strangle me; or to give a false alarm at night, and shoot me +as I went out, in which manner they judged that they would accomplish their +work sooner than otherwise. They made a mutual promise not to betray each +other, on penalty that the first one who opened his mouth should be +poniarded. They were to execute their plan in four days, before the +arrival of our barques, otherwise they would have been unable to carry out +their scheme. + +On this very day, one of our barques arrived, with our pilot, Captain +Testu, a very discreet man. After the barque was unloaded, and ready to +return to Tadoussac, there came to him a locksmith, named Natel, an +associate of Jean du Val, the head of the conspiracy, who told him that he +had promised the rest to do just as they did; but that he did not in fact +desire the execution of the plot, yet did not dare to make a disclosure in +regard to it, from fear of being poniarded. + +Antoine Natel made the pilot promise that he would make no disclosure in +regard to what he should say, since, if his companions should discover it, +they would put him to death. The pilot gave him his assurance in all +particulars, and asked him to state the character of the plot which they +wished to carry out. This Natel did at length, when the pilot said to him: +"My friend, you have done well to disclose such a malicious design, and you +show that you are an upright man, and under the guidance of the Holy +Spirit. But these things cannot be passed by without bringing them to the +knowledge of Sieur de Champlain, that he may make provision against them; +and I promise you that I will prevail upon him to pardon you and the rest. +And I will at once," said the pilot, "go to him without exciting any +suspicion; and do you go about your business, listening to all they may +say, and not troubling yourself about the rest." + +The pilot came at once to me, in a garden which I was having prepared, and +said that he wished to speak to me in a private place, where we could be +alone. I readily assented, and we went into the wood, where he related to +me the whole affair. I asked who had told it to him. He begged me to pardon +him who had made the disclosure, which I consented to do, although he ought +to have addressed himself to me. He was afraid, he replied, that you would +become angry, and harm him. I told him that I was able to govern myself +better than that, in such a matter; and desired him to have the man come to +me, that I might hear his statement. He went, and brought him all trembling +with fear lest I should do him some harm. I reassured him, telling him not +to be afraid; that he was in a place of safety, and that I should pardon +him for all that he had done, together with the others, provided he would +tell me in full the truth in regard to the whole matter, and the motive +which had impelled them to it. "Nothing," he said, "had impelled them, +except that they had imagined that, by giving up the place into the hands +of the Basques or Spaniards, they might all become rich, and that they did +not want to go back to France." He also related to me the remaining +particulars in regard to their conspiracy. + +After having heard and questioned him, I directed him to go about his +work. Meanwhile, I ordered the pilot to bring up his shallop, which he +did. Then I gave two bottles of wine to a young man, directing him to say +to these four worthies, the leaders of the conspiracy, that it was a +present of wine, which his friends at Tadoussac had given him, and that he +wished to share it with them. This they did not decline, and at evening +were on board the barque where he was to give them the entertainment. I +lost no time in going there shortly after; and caused them to be seized, +and held until the next day. + +Then were my worthies astonished indeed. I at once had all get up, for it +was about ten o'clock in the evening, and pardoned them all, on condition +that they would disclose to me the truth in regard to all that had +occurred; which they did, when I had them retire. + +The next day I took the depositions of all, one after the other, in the +presence of the pilot and sailors of the vessel, which I had put down in +writing; and they were well pleased, as they said, since they had lived +only in fear of each other, especially of the four knaves who had ensnared +them. But now they lived in peace, satisfied, as they declared, with the +treatment which they had received. + +The same day I had six pairs of handcuffs made for the authors of the +conspiracy: one for our surgeon, named Bonnerme, one for another, named La +Taille, whom the four conspirators had accused, which, however, proved +false, and consequently they were given their liberty. + +This being done, I took my worthies to Tadoussac, begging Pont Gravé to do +me the favor of guarding them, since I had as yet no secure place for +keeping them, and as we were occupied in constructing our places of abode. +Another object was to consult with him, and others on the ship, as to what +should be done in the premises. We suggested that, after he had finished +his work at Tadoussac, he should come to Quebec with the prisoners, where +we should have them confronted with their witnesses, and, after giving them +a hearing, order justice to be done according to the offence which they had +committed. + +I went back the next day to Quebec, to hasten the completion of our +storehouse, so as to secure our provisions, which had been misused by all +those scoundrels, who spared nothing, without reflecting how they could +find more when these failed; for I could not obviate the difficulty until +the storehouse should be completed and shut up. + +Pont Gravé arrived some time after me, with the prisoners, which caused +uneasiness to the workmen who remained, since they feared that I should +pardon them, and that they would avenge themselves upon them for revealing +their wicked design. + +We had them brought face to face, and they affirmed before them all which +they had stated in their depositions, the prisoners not denying it, but +admitting that they had acted in a wicked manner, and should be punished, +unless mercy might be exercised towards them; accursing, above all, Jean du +Val, who had been trying to lead them into such a conspiracy from the time +of their departure from France. Du Val knew not what to say, except that he +deserved death, that all stated in the depositions was true, and that he +begged for mercy upon himself and the others, who had given in their +adherence to his pernicious purposes. + +After Pont Gravé and I, the captain of the vessel, surgeon, mate, second +mate, and other sailors, had heard their depositions and face to face +statements, we adjudged that it would be enough to put to death Du Val, as +the instigator of the conspiracy; and that he might serve as an example to +those who remained, leading them to deport themselves correctly in future, +in the discharge of their duty; and that the Spaniards and Basques, of whom +there were large numbers in the country, might not glory in the event. We +adjudged that the three others be condemned to be hung, but that they +should be taken to France and put into the hands of Sieur de Monts, that +such ample justice might be done them as he should recommend; that they +should be sent with all the evidence and their sentence, as well as that of +Jean du Val, who was strangled and hung at Quebec, and his head was put on +the end of a pike, to be set up in the most conspicuous place on our fort. + + +ENDNOTES: + +309. Champlain here plainly means to say that the Indians call the narrow + place in the river _Quebec_. For this meaning of the word, viz., + narrowing of waters, in the Algonquin language, the authority is + abundant. Laverdière quotes, as agreeing with him in this view, + Bellenger, Ferland, and Lescarbot. "The narrowing of the river," says + Charlevoix, "gave it the name of _Quebeio_ or _Quebec_, which in the + _Algonquin_ language signifies _contraction_. The Abenaquis, whose + language is a dialect of the Algonquin, call it Quelibec, which + signifies something shut up."--_Charlevoix's Letters_, pp. 18, 19. + Alfred Hawkins, in his "Historical Recollections of Quebec," regards + the word of Norman origin, which he finds on a seal of the Duke of + Suffolk, as early as 1420. The theory is ingenious: but it requires + some other characteristic historical facts to challenge our belief. + When Cartier visited Quebec, it was called by the natives Stadacone. + --_Vide Cartier's Brief Récit_, 1545, D'Avezac ed., Paris, 1863, + p. 14. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +RETURN OF PONT GRAVÉ TO FRANCE.--DESCRIPTION OF OUR QUARTERS AND THE PLACE +WHERE JACQUES CARTIER STAYED IN 1535. + + +After all these occurrences, Pont Gravé set out from Quebec, on the 18th of +September, to return to France with the three prisoners. After he had gone, +all who remained conducted themselves correctly in the discharge of their +duty. + +I had the work on our quarters continued, which was composed of three +buildings of two stories. Each one was three fathoms long, and two and a +half wide. The storehouse was six fathoms long and three wide, with a fine +cellar six feet deep. I had a gallery made all around our buildings, on the +outside, at the second story, which proved very convenient. There were +also ditches, fifteen feet wide and six deep. On the outer side of the +ditches, I constructed several spurs, which enclosed a part of the +dwelling, at the points where we placed our cannon. Before the habitation +there is a place four fathoms wide and six or seven long, looking out upon +the river-bank. Surrounding the habitation are very good gardens, and a +place on the north side some hundred or hundred and twenty paces long and +fifty or sixty wide. Moreover, near Quebec, there is a little river, coming +from a lake in the interior, [310] distant six or seven leagues from our +settlement. I am of opinion that this river, which is north a quarter +north-west from our settlement, is the place where Jacques Cartier +wintered, [311] since there are still, a league up the river, remains of +what seems to have been a chimney, the foundation of which has been found, +and indications of there having been ditches surrounding their dwelling, +which was small. We found, also, large pieces of hewn, worm-eaten timber, +and some three or four cannon-balls. All these things show clearly that +there was a settlement there founded by Christians; and what leads me to +say and believe that it was that of Jacques Cartier is the fact that there +is no evidence whatever that any one wintered and built a house in these +places except Jacques Cartier, at the time of his discoveries. This place, +as I think, must have been called St. Croix, as he named it; which name +has since been transferred to another place fifteen leagues west of our +settlement. But there is no evidence of his having wintered in the place +now called St. Croix, nor in any other there, since in this direction there +is no river or other place large enough for vessels except the main river +or that of which I spoke above; here there is half a fathom of water at low +tide, many rocks, and a bank at the mouth; for vessels, if kept in the main +river, where there are strong currents and tides, and ice in the winter, +drifting along, would run the risk of being lost; especially as there is a +sandy point extending out into the river, and filled with rocks, between +which we have found, within the last three years, a passage not before +discovered; but one must go through cautiously, in consequence of the +dangerous points there. This place is exposed to the north-west winds; a +half fathoms. There are no signs of buildings here, nor any indications +that a man of judgment would settle in this place, there being many other +better ones, in case one were obliged to make a permanent stay. I have been +desirous of speaking at length on this point, since many believe that the +abode of Jacques Cartier was here, which I do not believe, for the reasons +here given; for Cartier would have left to posterity a narrative of the +matter, as he did in the case of all he saw and discovered; and I maintain +that my opinion is the true one, as can be shown by the history which he +has left, in writing. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +ABITATION DE QUEBECQ. + +_A_. The storehouse. +_B_. Dove-cote. +_C_. A building where our arms are kept, and for lodging our workmen. +_D_. Another building for our workmen. +_E_. Dial. +_F_. Another building, comprising the blacksmith's shop and the lodgings of + the mechanics. +_G_. Galleries extending entirely round the dwellings. +_H_. The dwelling of Sieur de Champlain. +_I_. Gate to the habitation where there is a drawbridge. +_L_. Promenade about the habitation ten feet wide, extending to the border + of the moat. +_M_. Moat extending all round our habitation. +_N_. Platforms, of a tenaille form, for our cannon. +_O_. Garden of Sieur de Champlain. +_P_. The kitchen. +_Q_. Open space before the habitation on the bank of the river. +_R_. The great river St. Lawrence. + + * * * * * + +As still farther proof that this place now called St. Croix is not the +place where Jacques Cartier wintered, as most persons think, this is what +he says about it in his discoveries, taken from his history; namely, that +he arrived at the Isle aux Coudres on the 5th of December, [312] 1535, +which he called by this name, as hazel-nuts were found there. There is a +strong tidal current in this place; and he says that it is three leagues +long, but it is quite enough to reckon a league and a half. On the 7th of +the month, Notre Dame Day, [313] he set out from this island to go up the +river, in which he saw fourteen islands, distant seven or eight leagues +from Isle aux Coudres on the south. He errs somewhat in this estimation, +for it is not more than three leagues. [314] He also says that the place +where the islands are is the commencement of the land or province of +Canada, and that he reached an island ten leagues long and five wide, where +extensive fisheries are carried on, fish being here, in fact, very +abundant, especially the sturgeon. But its length is not more than six +leagues, and its breadth two; a fact well recognized now. He says also that +he anchored between this island and the main land on the north, the +smallest passage, and a dangerous one, where he landed two savages whom he +had taken to France, and that, after stopping in this place some time with +the people of the country, he sent for his barques and went farther up the +river, with the tide, seeking a harbor and place of security for his ships. +He says, farther, that they went on up the river, coasting along this +island, the length of which he estimates at ten leagues; and after it was +passed they found a very fine and pleasant bay, containing a little river +and bar harbor, which they found very favorable for sheltering their +vessels. This they named St. Croix, since he arrived there on this day; and +at the time of the voyage of Cartier the place was called Stadaca, [315] +but we now call it Quebec. He says, also, that after he had examined this +place he returned to get his vessels for passing the winter there. + +Now we may conclude, accordingly, that the distance is only five leagues +from the Isle aux Coudres to the Isle of Orleans, [316] at the western +extremity of which the river is very broad; and at which bay, as Cartier +calls it, there is no other river than that which he called St. Croix, a +good league distant from the Isle of Orleans, in which, at low tide, there +is only half a fathom of water. It is very dangerous for vessels at its +mouth, there being a large number of spurs; that is, rocks scattered here +and there. It is accordingly necessary to place buoys in order to enter, +there being, as I have stated, three fathoms of water at ordinary tides, +and four fathoms, or four and a half generally, at the great tides at full +flood. It is only fifteen hundred paces from our habitation, which is +higher up the river; and, as I have stated, there is no other river up to +the place now called St. Croix, where vessels can lie, there being only +little brooks. The shores are flat and dangerous, which Cartier does not +mention until the time that he sets out from St. Croix, now called Quebec, +where he left his vessels, and built his place of abode, as is seen from +what follows. + +On the 19th of September, he set out from St. Croix, where his vessels +were, setting sail with the tide up the river, which they found very +pleasant, as well on account of the woods, vines, and dwellings, which were +there in his time, as for other reasons. They cast anchor twenty-five +leagues from the entrance to the land of Canada; [317] that is, at the +western extremity of the Isle of Orleans, so called by Cartier. What is +now called St Croix was then called Achelacy, at a narrow pass where the +river is very swift and dangerous on account of the rocks and other things, +and which can only be passed at flood-tide. Its distance from Quebec and +the river where Cartier wintered is fifteen leagues. + +Now, throughout the entire extent of this river, from Quebec to the great +fall, there are no narrows except at the place now called St. Croix; the +name of which has been transferred from one place to another one, which is +very dangerous, as my description shows. And it is very apparent, from his +narrative, that this was not the site of his habitation, as is claimed; but +that the latter was near Quebec, and that no one had entered into a special +investigation of this matter before my doing so in my voyages. For the +first time I was told that he dwelt in this place, I was greatly +astonished, finding no trace of a river for vessels, as he states there +was. This led me to make a careful examination, in order to remove the +suspicion and doubt of many persons in regard to the matter. [318] + +While the carpenters, sawers of boards, and other workmen, were employed on +our quarters, I set all the others to work clearing up around our place of +abode, in preparation for gardens in which to plant grain and seeds, that +we might see how they would flourish, as the soil seemed to be very good. + +Meanwhile, a large number of savages were encamped in cabins near us, +engaged in fishing for eels, which begin to come about the 15th of +September, and go away on the 15th of October. During this time, all the +savages subsist on this food, and dry enough of it for the winter to last +until the month of February, when there are about two and a half, or at +most three, feet of snow; and, when their eels and other things which they +dry have been prepared, they go to hunt the beaver until the beginning of +January. At their departure for this purpose, they intrusted to us all +their eels and other things, until their return, which was on the 15th of +December. But they did not have great success in the beaver-hunt, as the +amount of water was too great, the rivers having overrun their banks, as +they told us. I returned to them all their supplies, which lasted them only +until the 20th of January. When their supply of eels gave out, they hunted +the elk and such other wild beasts as they could find until spring, when I +was able to supply them with various things. I paid especial attention to +their customs. + +These people suffer so much from lack of food that they are sometimes +obliged to live on certain shell-fish, and eat their dogs and the skins +with which they clothe themselves against the cold. I am of opinion that, +if one were to show them how to live, and teach them the cultivation of the +soil and other things, they would learn very aptly. For many of them +possess good sense, and answer properly questions put to them. They have a +bad habit of taking vengeance, and are great liars, and you must not put +much reliance on them, except judiciously, and with force at hand. They +make promises readily, but keep their word poorly. The most of them observe +no law at all, so far as I have been able to see, and are, besides, full of +superstitions. I asked them with what ceremonies they were accustomed to +pray to their God, when they replied that they had none, but that each +prayed to him in his heart, as he wished. That is why there is no law among +them, and they do not know what it is to worship and pray to God, living as +they do like brute beasts. But I think that they would soon become good +Christians, if people would come and inhabit their country, which they are +for the most part desirous of. There are some savages among them, called by +them Pilotais, whom they believe have intercourse with the devil face to +face, who tells them what they must do in regard to war and other things; +and, if he should order them to execute any undertaking, they would obey at +once. So, also, they believe that all their dreams are true; and, in fact, +there are many who say that they have had visions and dreams about matters +which actually come to pass or will do so. But, to tell the truth, these +are diabolical visions, through which they are deceived and misled. This is +all I have been able to learn about their brutish faith. All these people +are well proportioned in body, without deformity, and are agile. The women, +also, are well-formed, plump, and of a swarthy color, in consequence of +certain pigments with which they rub themselves, and which give them a +permanent olive color. They are dressed in skins: a part only of the body +is covered. But in winter they are covered throughout, in good furs of elk, +otter, beaver, bear, seals, deer, and roe, of which they have large +quantities. In winter, when the snow is deep, they make a sort of snow-shoe +of large size, two or three times as large as that used in France, which +they attach to their feet, thus going over the snow without sinking in; +otherwise, they could not hunt or walk in many places. They have a sort of +marriage, which is as follows: When a girl is fourteen or fifteen years +old, and has several suitors, she may keep company with all she likes. At +the end of five or six years, she takes the one that pleases her for her +husband, and they live together to the end of their lives. But if, after +living some time together, they have no children, the man can disunite +himself and take another woman, alleging that his own is good for nothing. +Hence, the girls have greater freedom than the married women. + +After marriage, the women are chaste, and their husbands generally +jealous. They give presents to the fathers or relatives of the girls they +have wedded. These are the ceremonies and forms observed in their +marriages. In regard to their burials: When a man or a woman dies, they dig +a pit, in which they put all their property, as kettles, furs, axes, bows, +arrows, robes, and other things. Then they place the body in the pit and +cover it with earth, putting, on top many large pieces of wood, and another +piece upright, painted red on the upper part. They believe in the +immortality of the soul, and say that they shall be happy in other lands +with their relatives and friends who are dead. In the case of captains or +others of some distinction, they celebrate a banquet three times a year +after their death, singing and dancing about the grave. + +All the time they were with us, which was the most secure place for them, +they did not cease to fear their enemies to such an extent that they often +at night became alarmed while dreaming, and sent their wives and children +to our fort, the gates of which I had opened to them, allowing the men to +remain about the fort, but not permitting them to enter, for their persons +were thus as much in security as if they had been inside. I also had five +or six of our men go out to reassure them, and to go and ascertain whether +they could see any thing in the woods, in order to quiet them. They are +very timid and in great dread of their enemies, scarcely ever sleeping in +repose in whatever place they may be, although I constantly reassured them, +so far as I could, urging them to do as we did; namely, that they should +have a portion watch while the others slept, that each one should have his +arms in readiness like him who was keeping watch, and that they should not +regard dreams as the actual truth to be relied upon, since they are mostly +only false, to which I also added other words on the same subject. But +these remonstrances were of little avail with them, and they said that we +knew better than they how to keep guard against all things; and that they, +in course of time, if we continued to stay with them, would be able to +learn it. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +SEEDS AND VINES PLANTED AT QUEBEC.--COMMENCEMENT OF THE WINTER AND ICE.-- +EXTREME DESTITUTION OF CERTAIN INDIANS. + + +On the 1st of October, I had some wheat sown, and on the 15th some rye. On +the 3d, there was a white frost in some places, and the leaves of the trees +began to fall on the 15th. On the 24th, I had some native vines set out, +which flourished very well. But, after leaving the settlement to go to +France, they were all spoiled from lack of attention, at which I was much +troubled on my return. On the 18th of November, there was a great fall of +snow, which remained only two days on the ground, during which time there +was a violent gale of wind. There died during this month a sailor and our +locksmith [319] of dysentery, so also many Indians from eating eels badly +cooked, as I think. On the 5th of February, it snowed violently, and the +wind was high for two days. On the 20th, some Indians appeared on the other +side of the river, calling to us to go to their assistance, which was +beyond our power, on account of the large amount of ice drifting in the +river. Hunger pressed upon these poor wretches so severely that, not +knowing what to do, they resolved, men, women, and children, to cross the +river or die, hoping that I should assist them in their extreme want. +Having accordingly made this resolve, the men and women took the children +and embarked in their canoes, thinking that they could reach our shore by +an opening in the ice made by the wind; but they were scarcely in the +middle of the stream when their canoes were caught by the ice and broken +into a thousand pieces. But they were skilful enough to throw themselves +with the children, which the women carried on their backs, on a large piece +of ice. As they were on it, we heard them crying out so that it excited +intense pity, as before them there seemed nothing but death. But fortune +was so favorable to these poor wretches that a large piece of ice struck +against the side of that on which they were, so violently as to drive them +ashore. On seeing this favorable turn, they reached the shore with as much +delight as they ever experienced, notwithstanding the great hunger from +which they were suffering. They proceeded to our abode, so thin and haggard +that they seemed like mere skeletons, most of them not being able to hold +themselves up. I was astonished to see them, and observe the manner in +which they had crossed, in view of their being so feeble and weak. I +ordered some bread and beans to be given them. So great was their +impatience to eat them, that they could not wait to have them cooked. I +lent them also some bark, which other savages had given me, to cover their +cabins. As they were making their cabin, they discovered a piece of +carrion, which I had had thrown out nearly two months before to attract the +foxes, of which we caught black and red ones, like those in France, but +with heavier fur. This carrion consisted of a sow and a dog, which had +sustained all the rigors of the weather, hot and cold. When the weather was +mild, it stank so badly that one could not go near it. Yet they seized it +and carried it off to their cabin, where they forthwith devoured it half +cooked. No meat ever seemed to them to taste better. I sent two or three +men to warn them not to eat it, unless they wanted to die: as they +approached their cabin, they smelt such a stench from this carrion half +warmed up, each one of the Indians holding a piece in his hand, that they +thought they should disgorge, and accordingly scarcely stopped at all. +These poor wretches finished their repast. I did not fail, however, to +supply them according to my resources; but this was little, in view of the +large number of them. In the space of a month, they would have eaten up all +our provisions, if they had had them in their power, they are so +gluttonous: for, when they have edibles, they lay nothing aside, but keep +consuming them day and night without respite, afterwards dying of hunger. +They did also another thing as disgusting as that just mentioned. I had +caused a bitch to be placed on the top of a tree, which allured the martens +[320] and birds of prey, from which I derived pleasure, since generally +this carrion was attacked by them. These savages went to the tree, and, +being too weak to climb it, cut it down and forthwith took away the dog, +which was only skin and bones, the tainted head emitting a stench, but +which was at once devoured. + +This is the kind of enjoyment they experience for the most part in winter; +for in summer they are able to support themselves, and to obtain provisions +so as not to be assailed by such extreme hunger, the rivers abounding in +fish, while birds and wild animals fill the country about. The soil is very +good and well adapted for tillage, if they would but take pains to plant +Indian corn, as all their neighbors do, the Algonquins, Ochastaiguins, +[321] and Iroquois, who are not attacked by such extremes of hunger, which +they provide against by their carefulness and foresight, so that they live +happily in comparison with the Montagnais, Canadians, and Souriquois along +the seacoast. This is in the main their wretched manner of life. The snow +and ice last three months there, from January to the 8th of April, when it +is nearly all melted: at the latest, it is only seldom that any is seen at +the end of the latter month at our settlement. It is remarkable that so +much snow and ice as there is on the river, and which is from two to three +fathoms thick, is all melted in less than twelve days. From Tadoussac to +Gaspé, Cape Breton, Newfoundland, and the Great Bay, the snow and ice +continue in most places until the end of May, at which time the entire +entrance of the great river is sealed with ice; although at Quebec there is +none at all, showing a strange difference for one hundred and twenty +leagues in longitude, for the entrance to the river is in latitude 49° 50' +to 51°, and our settlement [322] in 46° 40'. + + +ENDNOTES: + +310. The river St. Charles flows from a lake in the interior of the same + name. It was called by the Montagnais, according to Sagard as cited by + Laverdière, _in loco_, "Cabirecoubat, because it turns and forms + several points." Cartier named it the Holy Cross, or St. Croix, + because he says he arrived there "that day;" that is, the day on which + the exaltation of the Cross is celebrated, the 14th of September, + 1535.--_Vide Cartier_, Hakluyt, Vol. III. p. 266. The Récollects gave + it the name of St. Charles, after the grand vicar of Pontoise, Charles + des Boues.--_Laverdière, in loco_. Jacques Cartier wintered on the + north shore of the St. Charles, which he called the St. Croix, or the + Holy Cross, about a league from Quebec. "Hard by, there is, in that + river, one place very narrow, deep, and swift running, but it is not + passing the third part of a league, over against the which there is a + goodly high piece of land, with a towne therein: and the country about + it is very well tilled and wrought, and as good as possibly can be + seene. This is the place and abode of Donnacona, and of our two men we + took in our first voyage, it is called Stadacona ... under which towne + toward the North the river and port of the holy crosse is, where we + staied from the 15 of September until the 16 of May, 1536, and there + our ships remained dry as we said before."--_Vide Jacques Cartier, + Second Voyage_, Hakluyt, Vol. III. p. 277. + +311. The spot where Jacques Cartier wintered was at the junction of the + river Lairet and the St. Charles. + +312. Cartier discovered the Isle of Coudres, that is, the isle of filberts + or hazel-nuts, on the 6th of September, 1535.--_Vide Cartier_, 1545, + D'Avezac ed., Paris, 1863, p. 12. This island is five nautical miles + long, which agrees with the statement of Champlain, and its greatest + width, is two miles and a quarter. + +313. Notre Dame Day, _iour de nostre dame_, should read "Notre Dame Eve." + Cartier says, "_Le septiesme iour dudict moys iour nostre-dame_," + etc.--_Idem_, p. 12. Hakluyt renders it, "The seventh of the moneth + being our Ladees even."--Vol. III. p. 265. + +314. As Champlain suggests, these islands are only three leagues higher up + the river; but, as they are on the opposite side, they could not be + compassed in much less than seven or eight leagues, as Cartier + estimates. + +315. This was an error in transcribing. Cartier has Stadacone.--_Vide Brief + Récit_, 1545, D'Avezac ed., p. 14. + +316. The distance, according to Laurie's Chart, is at least twenty-six + nautical miles. + +317. Canada at this time was regarded by the Indians as a limited + territory, situated at or about Quebec. This statement is confirmed by + the testimony of Cartier: "Ledict Donnacona pria nostre cappitaine de + aller le lendemain veoir Canada, Ce que luy promist le dist + cappitaine. Et le lendemam, 13. iour du diet moys, ledict cappitaine + auecques ses gentilz homines accompaigne de cinquante compaignons bien + en ordre, allerèt veoir ledict Donnacona & son peuple, qui est distà t + dou estoient lesdictes nauires d'une lieue."--_Vide Brief Récit_, + 1545, D'Avezac ed., p. 29. Of the above the following is Hakluyt's + translation: "Donnacona their Lord desired our Captaine the next day + to come and see Canada, which he promised to doe: for the next day + being the 13 of the moneth, he with all his Gentlemen and fiftie + Mariners very well appointed, went to visite Donnacona and his people, + about a league from our ships." + + Their ships were at this time at St. Croix, a short distance up the + St. Charles, which flows into the St. Lawrence at Quebec; and the + little Indian village, or camp, which Donnacona called Canada, was at + Quebec. Other passages from Cartier, as well as from Jean Alfonse, + harmonize with this which we have cited. Canada was therefore in + Cartier's time only the name of a very small territory covered by an + Indian village. When it became the centre of French interests, it + assumed a wider meaning. The St. Lawrence was often called the River + of Canada, then the territory on its shores, and finally Canada has + come to comprehend the vast British possessions in America known as + the "Dominion of Canada." + +318. The locality of Cartier's winter-quarters is established by Champlain + with the certainty of an historical demonstration, and yet there are + to be found those whose judgment is so warped by preconceived opinion + that they resist the overwhelming testimony which he brings to bear + upon the subject. Charlevoix makes the St. Croix of Cartier the + Rivière de Jacques Cartier.--_Vide Shea's Charlevoix_, Vol. I. p. 116. + +319. Unless they had more than one locksmith, this must have been Antoine + Natel.--_Vide antea_, p. 178. + +320. _Martres_. The common weasel, _Mustela vulgaris_. + +321. _Ochastaiguins_. This, says Laverdière, is what Champlain first called + the Hurons, from the name of Ochateguin, one of their chiefs. Huron + was a nickname: the proper name of this tribe was Wendot or + Wyandot. They occupied the eastern bank of Lake Huron and the southern + shores of the Georgian Bay. The knowledge of the several tribes here + referred to had been obtained by Champlain, partly from his own + observation and partly from the Indians. The Algommequins or + Algonquins, known at this time to Champlain, were from the region of + the Ottawa. The Yroquois or Iroquois dwelt south of the St. Lawrence + in the State of New York, and comprised what are generally known as + the Five Nations. The Montagnais or Montaignets had their great + trading-post at Tadoussac, and roamed over a vast territory north and + east of that point, and west of it as far as the mountains that + separate the waters of the Saguenay and those of the Ottawa. The name + was given to them by the French from this mountain range. The + Canadians were those about the neighborhood of Quebec. The Souriquois + were of Nova Scotia, and subsequently known as Micmacs. Of most of + these different tribes, Champlain could speak from personal knowledge. + +322. Laverdière gives the exact latitude of Quebec at the Observatory, on + the authority of Captain Bayfield, as 46° 49' 8". + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +THE SCURVY AT QUEBEC.--How THE WINTER PASSED.--DESCRIPTION OF THE PLACE.-- +ARRIVAL AT QUEBEC OF SIEUR DES MARAIS, SON-IN-LAW OF PONT GRAVÉ. + + +The scurvy began very late; namely, in February, and continued until the +middle of April. Eighteen were attacked, and ten died; five others dying of +the dysentery. I had some opened, to see whether they were tainted, like +those I had seen in our other settlements. They were found the same. Some +time after, our surgeon died. [323] All this troubled us very much, on +account of the difficulty we had in attending to the sick. The nature of +this disease I have described before. + +It is my opinion that this disease proceeds only from eating excessively of +salt food and vegetables, which heat the blood and corrupt the internal +parts. The winter is also, in part, its cause; since it checks the natural +warmth, causing a still greater corruption of the blood. There rise also +from the earth, when first cleared up, certain vapors which infect the air: +this has been observed in the case of those who have lived at other +settlements; after the first year when the sun had been let in upon what +was not before cleared up, as well in our abode as in other places, the air +was much better, and the diseases not so violent as before. But the country +is fine and pleasant, and brings to maturity all kinds of grains and feeds, +there being found all the various kinds of trees, which we have here in our +forests, and many fruits, although they are naturally wild; as, nut-trees, +cherry-trees, plum-trees, vines, raspberries, strawberries, currants, both +green and red, and several other small fruits, which are very good. There +are also several kinds of excellent plants and roots. Fishing is abundant +in the rivers; and game without limit on the numerous meadows bordering +them. From the month of April to the 15th of December, the air is so pure +and healthy that one does not experience the slightest indisposition. But +January, February, and March are dangerous, on account of the sicknesses +prevailing at this time, rather than in summer, for the reasons before +given; for, as to treatment, all of my company were well clothed, provided +with good beds, and well warmed and fed, that is, with the salt meats we +had, which, in my opinion, injured them greatly, as I have already stated. +As far as I have been able to see, the sickness attacks one who is delicate +in his living and takes particular care of himself as readily as one whose +condition is as wretched as possible. We supposed at first that the +workmen only would be attacked with this disease; but this we found was not +the case. Those sailing to the East Indies and various other regions, as +Germany and England, are attacked with it as well as in New France. Some +time ago, the Flemish, being attacked with this malady in their voyages to +the Indies, found a very strange remedy, which might be of service to us; +but we have never ascertained the character of it. Yet I am confident that, +with good bread and fresh meat, a person would not be liable to it. + +On the 8th of April, the snow had all melted; and yet the air was still +very cold until April, [324] when the trees begin to leaf out. + +Some of those sick with the scurvy were cured when Spring came, which is +the season for recovery. I had a savage of the country wintering with me, +who was attacked with this disease from having changed his diet to salt +meat; and he died from its effects, which clearly shows that salt food is +not nourishing, but quite the contrary in this disease. + +On the 5th of June, a shallop arrived at our settlement with Sieur des +Marais, a son-in-law of Pont Gravé, bringing us the tidings that his +father-in-law had arrived at Tadoussac on the 28th of May. This +intelligence gave me much satisfaction, as we entertained hopes of +assistance from him. Only eight out of the twenty-eight at first forming +our company were remaining, and half of these were ailing. + +On the 7th of June, I set out from Quebec for Tadoussac on some matters of +business, and asked Sieur des Marais to stay in my place until my return, +which he did. + +Immediately upon my arrival, Pont Gravé and I had a conference in regard to +some explorations which I was to make in the interior, where the savages +had promised to guide us. We determined that I should go in a shallop with +twenty men, and that Pont Gravé should stay at Tadoussac to arrange the +affairs of our settlement; and this determination was carried out, he +spending the winter there. This arrangement was especially desirable, since +I was to return to France, according to the orders sent out by Sieur de +Monts, in order to inform him of what I had done and the explorations I had +made in the country. + +After this decision, I set out at once from Tadoussac, and returned to +Quebec, where I had a shallop fitted out with all that was necessary for +making explorations in the country of the Iroquois, where I was to go with +our allies, the Montagnais. + + +ENDNOTES: + +323. His name was Bonnerme.--_Vide antea_, p. 180. + +324. Read May instead of April. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +DEPARTURE FROM QUEBEC AND VOYAGE TO THE ÃŽLE ST. ÉLOI.--MEETING THERE WITH +THE ALGONQUINS AND OCHATAIGUINS. + + +With this purpose, I set out on the 18th of the month. Here the river +begins to widen, in some places to the breadth of a league or a league and +a half. The country becomes more and more beautiful. There are hills along +the river in part, and in part it is a level country, with but few rocks. +The river itself is dangerous in many places, in consequence of its banks +and rocks; and it is not safe sailing without keeping the lead in hand. The +river is very abundant in many kinds of fish, not only such as we have +here, but others which we have not. The country is thickly covered with +massive and lofty forests, of the same kind of trees as we have about our +habitation. There are also many vines and nut-trees on the bank of the +river, and many small brooks and streams which are only navigable with +canoes. We passed near Point St. Croix, which many maintain, as I have said +elsewhere, is the place where Jacques Cartier spent the winter. This point +is sandy, extending some distance out into the river, and exposed to the +north-west wind, which beats upon it. There are some meadows, covered +however every full tide, which falls nearly two fathoms and a half. This +passage is very dangerous on account of the large number of rocks +stretching across the river, although there is a good but very winding +channel, where the river runs like a race, rendering it necessary to take +the proper time for passing. This place has deceived many, who thought +they could only pass at high tide from there being no channel: but we have +now found the contrary to be true, for one can go down at low tide; but it +would be difficult to ascend, in consequence of the strong current, unless +there were a good wind. It is consequently necessary to wait until the tide +is a third flood, in order to pass, when the current in the channel is six, +eight, ten, twelve, and fifteen fathoms deep. + +Continuing our course, we reached a very pleasant river, nine leagues +distant from St. Croix and twenty-four from Quebec. This we named +St. Mary's River. [325] The river all the way from St. Croix is very +pleasant. + +Pursuing our route, I met some two or three hundred savages, who were +encamped in huts near a little island called St. Éloi, [326] a league and a +half distant from St. Mary. We made a reconnoissance, and found that they +were tribes of savages, called Ochateguins and Algonquins, [327] on their +way to Quebec, to assist us in exploring the territory of the Iroquois, +with whom they are in deadly hostility, sparing nothing belonging to their +enemies. + +After reconnoitring, I went on shore to see them, and inquired who their +chief was. They told me there were two, one named Yroquet, and the other +Ochasteguin, whom they pointed out to me. I went to their cabin, where they +gave me a cordial reception, as is their custom. + +I proceeded to inform them of the object of my voyage, with which they were +greatly pleased. After some talk, I withdrew. Some time after, they came to +my shallop, and presented me with some peltry, exhibiting many tokens of +pleasure. Then they returned to the shore. + +The next day, the two chiefs came to see me, when they remained some time +without saying a word, meditating and smoking all the while. After due +reflection, they began to harangue in a loud voice all their companions who +were on the bank of the river, with their arms in their hands, and +listening very attentively to what their chiefs said to them, which was as +follows: that nearly ten moons ago, according to their mode of reckoning, +the son of Yroquet had seen me, and that I had given him a good reception, +and declared that Pont Gravé and I desired to assist them against their +enemies, with whom they had for a long time been at warfare, on account of +many cruel acts committed by them against their tribe, under color of +friendship; that, having ever since longed for vengeance, they had +solicited all the savages, whom I saw on the bank of the river, to come and +make an alliance with us, and that their never having seen Christians also +impelled them to come and visit us; that I should do with them and their +companions as I wished; that they had no children with them, but men versed +in war and full of courage, acquainted with the country and rivers in the +land of the Iroquois; that now they entreated me to return to our +settlement, that they might see our houses, and that, after three days, we +should all together come back to engage in the war; that, as a token of +firm friendship and joy, I should have muskets and arquebuses fired, at +which they would be greatly pleased. This I did, when they uttered great +cries of astonishment, especially those who had never heard nor seen the +like. + +After hearing them, I replied that, if they desired, I should be very glad +to return to our settlement, to gratify them still more; and that they +might conclude that I had no other purpose than to engage in the war, since +we carried with us nothing but arms, and not merchandise for barter, as +they had been given to understand; and that my only desire was to fulfill +what I had promised them; and that, if I had known of any who had made evil +reports to them, I should regard them as enemies more than they did +themselves. They told me that they believed nothing of them, and that they +never had heard any one speak thus. But the contrary was the case; for +there were some savages who told it to ours. I contented myself with +waiting for an opportunity to show them in fact something more than they +could have expected from me. + + +ENDNOTES: + +325. This river is now called the Sainte Anne. + +326. A small island near Batiscan, not on the charts. + +327. Hurons and Algonquins. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +RETURN TO QUEBEC.--CONTINUATION AFTERWARDS WITH THE SAVAGES TO THE FALL OF +THE RIVER OF THE IROQUOIS. + + +The next day, we set out all together for our settlement, where they +enjoyed themselves some five or six days, which were spent in dances and +festivities, on account of their eagerness for us to engage in the war. + +Pont Gravé came forthwith from Tadoussac with two little barques full of +men, in compliance with a letter, in which I begged him to come as +speedily as possible. + +The savages seeing him arrive rejoiced more than ever, inasmuch as I told +them that he had given some of his men to assist them, and that perhaps we +should go together. + +On the 28th of the month, [328] we equipped some barques for assisting +these savages. Pont Gravé embarked on one and I on the other, when we all +set out together. The first of June, [329] we arrived at St. Croix, distant +fifteen leagues from Quebec, where Pont Gravé and I concluded that, for +certain reasons, I should go with the savages, and he to our settlement and +to Tadoussac. This resolution being taken, I embarked in my shallop all +that was necessary, together with Des Marais and La Routte, our pilot, and +nine men. + +I set out from St. Croix on the 3d of June [330] with all the savages. We +passed the Trois Rivières, a very beautiful country, covered with a growth +of fine trees. From this place to St. Croix is a distance of fifteen +leagues. At the mouth of the above-named river [331] there are six islands, +three of which are very small, the others some fifteen to sixteen hundred +paces long, very pleasant in appearance. Near Lake St. Peter, [332] some +two leagues up the river, there is a little fall not very difficult to +pass. This place is in latitude 46°, lacking some minutes. The savages of +the country gave us to understand that some days' journey up this river +there is a lake, through which the river flows. The length of the lake is +ten days' journey, when some falls are passed, and afterwards three or four +other lakes of five or six days' journey in length. Having reached the end +of these, they go four or five leagues by land, and enter still another +lake, where the Sacqué has its principal source. From this lake, the +savages go to Tadoussac. [333] The Trois Rivières extends forty days' +journey of the savages. They say that at the end of this river there is a +people, who are great hunters, without a fixed abode, and who are less than +six days' journey from the North Sea. What little of the country I have +seen is sandy, very high, with hills, covered with large quantities of pine +and fir on the river border; but some quarter of a league inland the woods +are very fine and open, and the country level. Thence we continued our +course to the entrance of Lake St. Peter, where the country is exceedingly +pleasant and level, and crossed the lake, in two, three, and four fathoms +of water, which is some eight leagues long and four wide. On the north +side, we saw a very pleasant river, extending some twenty leagues into the +interior, which I named St. Suzanne; on the south side, there are two, one +called Rivière du Pont, the other, Rivière de Gennes, [334] which are very +pretty, and in a fine and fertile country. The water is almost still in the +lake, which is full of fish. On the north bank, there are seen some slight +elevations at a distance of some twelve or fifteen leagues from the lake. +After crossing the lake, we passed a large number of islands of various +sizes, containing many nut-trees and vines, and fine meadows, with +quantities of game and wild animals, which go over from the main land to +these islands. Fish are here more abundant than in any other part of the +river that we had seen. From these islands, we went to the mouth of the +River of the Iroquois, where we stayed two days, refreshing ourselves with +good venison, birds, and fish, which the savages gave us. Here there sprang +up among them some difference of opinion on the subject of the war, so that +a portion only determined to go with me, while the others returned to their +country with their wives and the merchandise which they had obtained by +barter. + +Setting out from the mouth of this river, which is some four hundred to +five hundred paces broad, and very beautiful, running southward, [335] we +arrived at a place in latitude 45°, and twenty-two or twenty-three leagues +from the Trois Rivières. All this river from its mouth to the first fall, +a distance of fifteen leagues, is very smooth, and bordered with woods, +like all the other places before named, and of the same sorts. There are +nine or ten fine islands before reaching the fall of the Iroquois, which +are a league or a league and a half long, and covered with numerous oaks +and nut-trees. The river is nearly half a league wide in places, and very +abundant in fish. We found in no place less than four feet of water. The +approach to the fall is a kind of lake, [336] where the water descends, and +which is some three leagues in circuit. There are here some meadows, but +not inhabited by savages on account of the wars. There is very little water +at the fall, which runs with great rapidity. There are also many rocks and +stones, so that the savages cannot go up by water, although they go down +very easily. All this region is very level, covered with forests, vines, +and nut-trees. No Christians had been in this place before us; and we had +considerable difficulty in ascending the river with oars. + +As soon as we had reached the fall, Des Marais, La Routte, and I, with five +men, went on shore to see whether we could pass this place; but we went +some league and a half without seeing any prospect of being able to do so, +finding only water running with great swiftness, and in all directions many +stones, very dangerous, and with but little water about them. The fall is +perhaps six hundred paces broad. Finding that it was impossible to cut a +way through the woods with the small number of men that I had, I +determined, after consultation with the rest, to change my original +resolution, formed on the assurance of the savages that the roads were +easy, but which we did not find to be the case, as I have stated. We +accordingly returned to our shallop, where I had left some men as guards, +and to indicate to the savages upon their arrival that we had gone to make +explorations along the fall. + +After making what observations I wished in this place, we met, on +returning, some savages, who had come to reconnoitre, as we had done. They +told us that all their companions had arrived at our shallop, where we +found them greatly pleased, and delighted that we had gone in this manner +without a guide, aided only by the reports they had several times made to +us. + +Having returned, and seeing the slight prospect there was of passing the +fall with our shallop, I was much troubled. And it gave me especial +dissatisfaction to go back without seeing a very large lake, filled with +handsome islands, and with large tracts of fine land bordering on the lake, +where their enemies live according to their representations. After duly +thinking over the matter, I determined to go and fulfil my promise, and +carry out my desire. Accordingly, I embarked with the savages in their +canoes, taking with me two men, who went cheerfully. After making known my +plan to Des Marais and others in the shallop, I requested the former to +return to our settlement with the rest of our company, giving them the +assurance that, in a short time, by God's grace, I would return to them. + +I proceeded forthwith to have a conference with the captains of the +savages, and gave them to understand that they had told me the opposite of +what my observations found to be the case at the fall; namely, that it was +impossible to pass it with the shallop, but that this would not prevent me +from assisting them as I had promised. This communication troubled them +greatly; and they desired to change their determination, but I urged them +not to do so, telling them that they ought to carry out their first plan, +and that I, with two others, would go to the war with them in their canoes, +in order to show them that, as for me, I would not break my word given to +them, although alone; but that I was unwilling then to oblige any one of my +companions to embark, and would only take with me those who had the +inclination to go, of whom I had found two. + +They were greatly pleased at what I said to them, and at the determination +which I had taken, promising, as before, to show me fine things. + + +ENDNOTES: + +328. The reader will observe that this must have been the 28th of June, + 1609. + +329. Read 1st of July. + +330. Read 3d of July. + +331. The river is now called St. Maurice; and the town at its mouth, Three + Rivers. Two islands at the mouth of the river divide it into three; + hence, it was originally called Trois Rivières, or Three Rivers. + +332. Laverdière suggests that Champlain entered this lake, now for the + first time called St. Peter, in 1603, on St. Peter's day, the 29th + June, and probably so named it from that circumstance. + +333. From the carrying-place they enter the Lake St. John, and from it + descend by the Saguenay to Tadoussac. In the preceding passage, Sacqué + was plainly intended for Saguenay. + +334. Of the three rivers flowing into Lake St. Peter, none retains the name + given to them by Champlain. His _St. Suzanne_ is the river du Loup; + his _Rivière du Pont_ is the river St. François; and his _De Gennes_ + is now represented by the Yamaska. Compare Champlain's map of 1612 + with Laurie's Chart of the river St. Lawrence. + +335. This is an error: the River of the Iroquois, now commonly known as the + Richelieu, runs towards the north. + +336. The Chambly Basin. On Charlevoix's Carte de la Rivière Richelieu, it + is called Bassin de St. Louis. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +DEPARTURE FROM THE FALL OF THE IROQUOIS RIVER.--DESCRIPTION OF A LARGE +LAKE.--ENCOUNTER WITH THE ENEMY AT THIS LAKE; THEIR MANNER OF ATTACKING THE +IROQUOIS, AND THEIR BEHAVIOR IN BATTLE. + + +I set out accordingly from the fall of the Iroquois River [337] on the 2d +of July. [338] All the savages set to carrying their canoes, arms, and +baggage overland, some half a league, in order to pass by the violence and +strength of the fall, which was speedily accomplished. Then they put them +all in the water again, two men in each with the baggage; and they caused +one of the men of each canoe to go by land some three leagues, [339] the +extent of the fall, which is not, however, so violent here as at the mouth, +except in some places, where rocks obstruct the river, which is not broader +than three hundred or four hundred paces. After we had passed the fall, +which was attended with difficulty, all the savages, who had gone by land +over a good path and level country, although there are a great many trees, +re-embarked in their canoes. My men went also by land; but I went in a +canoe. The savages made a review of all their followers, finding that there +were twenty-four canoes, with sixty men. After the review was completed, we +continued our course to an island, [340] three leagues long, filled with +the finest pines I had ever seen. Here they went hunting, and captured +some wild animals. Proceeding about three leagues farther on, we made a +halt, in order to rest the coming night. + +They all at once set to work, some to cut wood, and others to obtain the +bark of trees for covering their cabins, for the sake of sheltering +themselves, others to fell large trees for; constructing a barricade on the +river-bank around their cabins, which they do so quickly that in less than +two hours so much is accomplished that five hundred of their enemies would +find it very difficult to dislodge them without killing large numbers. They +make no barricade on the river-bank, where their canoes are drawn up, in +order that they may be able to embark, if occasion requires. After they +were established in their cabins, they despatched three canoes, with nine +good men, according to their custom in all their encampments, to +reconnoitre for a distance of two or three leagues, to see if they can +perceive any thing, after which they return. They rest the entire night, +depending upon the observation of these scouts, which is a very bad custom +among them; for they are sometimes while sleeping surprised by their +enemies, who slaughter them before they have time to get up and prepare for +defence. Noticing this, I remonstrated with them on the mistake they made, +and told them that they ought to keep watch, as they had seen us do every +night, and have men on the lookout, in order to listen and see whether they +perceived any thing, and that they should not live in such a manner like +beasts. They replied that they could not keep watch, and that they worked +enough in the day-time in the chase, since, when engaged in war, they +divide their troops into three parts: namely, a part for hunting scattered +in several places; another to constitute the main body of their army, which +is always under arms; and the third to act as _avant-coureurs_, to look out +along the rivers, and observe whether they can see any mark or signal +showing where their enemies or friends have passed. This they ascertain by +certain marks which the chiefs of different tribes make known to each +other; but, these not continuing always the same, they inform themselves +from time to time of changes, by which means they ascertain whether they +are enemies or friends who have passed. The hunters never hunt in advance +of the main body, or _avant-coureurs_, so as not to excite alarm or produce +disorder, but in the rear and in the direction from which they do not +anticipate their enemy. Thus they advance until they are within two or +three days' march of their enemies, when they proceed by night stealthily +and all in a body, except the _van-couriers_. By day, they withdraw into +the interior of the woods, where they rest, without straying off, neither +making any noise nor any fire, even for the sake of cooking, so as not to +be noticed in case their enemies should by accident pass by. They make no +fire, except in smoking, which amounts to almost nothing. They eat baked +Indian meal, which they soak in water, when it becomes a kind of porridge. +They provide themselves with such meal to meet their wants, when they are +near their enemies, or when retreating after a charge, in which case they +are not inclined to hunt, retreating immediately. + +In all their encampments, they have their Pilotois, or Ostemoy, [341] a +class of persons who play the part of soothsayers, in whom these people +have faith. One of these builds a cabin, surrounds it with small pieces of +wood, and covers it with his robe: after it is built, he places himself +inside, so as not to be seen at all, when he seizes and shakes one of the +posts of his cabin, muttering some words between his teeth, by which he +says he invokes the devil, who appears to him in the form of a stone, and +tells him whether they will meet their enemies and kill many of them. This +Pilotois lies prostrate on the ground, motionless, only speaking with the +devil: on a sudden, he rises to his feet, talking, and tormenting himself +in such a manner that, although naked, he is all of a perspiration. All the +people surround the cabin, seated on their buttocks, like apes. They +frequently told me that the shaking of the cabin, which I saw, proceeded +from the devil, who made it move, and not the man inside, although I could +see the contrary; for, as I have stated above, it was the Pilotois who took +one of the supports of the cabin, and made it move in this manner. They +told me also that I should see fire come out from the top, which I did not +see at all. These rogues counterfeit also their voice, so that it is heavy +and clear, and speak in a language unknown to the other savages. And, when +they represent it as broken, the savages think that the devil is speaking, +and telling them what is to happen in their war, and what they must do. + +But all these scapegraces, who play the soothsayer, out of a hundred words, +do not speak two that are true, and impose upon these poor people. There +are enough like them in the world, who take food from the mouths of the +people by their impostures, as these worthies do. I often remonstrated with +the people, telling them that all they did was sheer nonsense, and that +they ought not to put confidence in them. + +Now, after ascertaining from their soothsayers what is to be their fortune, +the chiefs take sticks a foot long, and as many as there are soldiers. They +take others, somewhat larger, to indicate the chiefs. Then they go into the +wood, and seek out a level place, five or fix feet square, where the chief, +as sergeant-major, puts all the sticks in such order as seems to him best. +Then he calls all his companions, who come all armed; and he indicates to +them the rank and order they are to observe in battle with their enemies. +All the savages watch carefully this proceeding, observing attentively the +outline which their chief has made with the sticks. Then they go away, and +set to placing themselves in such order as the sticks were in, when they +mingle with each other, and return again to their proper order, which +manoeuvre they repeat two or three times, and at all their encampments, +without needing a sergeant to keep them in the proper order, which they are +able to keep accurately without any confusion. This is their rule in war. + +We set out on the next day, continuing our course in the river as far as +the entrance of the lake. There are many pretty islands here, low, and +containing very fine woods and meadows, with abundance of fowl and such +animals of the chase as stags, fallow-deer, fawns, roe-bucks, bears, and +others, which go from the main land to these islands. We captured a large +number of these animals. There are also many beavers, not only in this +river, but also in numerous other little ones that flow into it. These +regions, although they are pleasant, are not inhabited by any savages, on +account of their wars; but they withdraw as far as possible from the rivers +into the interior, in order not to be suddenly surprised. + +The next day we entered the lake, [342] which is of great extent, say +eighty or a hundred leagues long, where I saw four fine islands, ten, +twelve, and fifteen leagues long, which were formerly inhabited by the +savages, like the River of the Iroquois; but they have been abandoned since +the wars of the savages with one another prevail. There are also many +rivers falling into the lake, bordered by many fine trees of the same kinds +as those we have in France, with many vines finer than any I have seen in +any other place; also many chestnut-trees on the border of this lake, which +I had not seen before. There is also a great abundance of fish, of many +varieties: among others, one called by the savages of the country +_Chaousarou_ [343] which varies in length, the largest being, as the people +told me, eight or ten feet long. I saw some five feet long, which were as +large as my thigh; the head being as big as my two fists, with a snout two +feet and a half long, and a double row of very sharp and dangerous teeth. +Its body is, in shape, much like that of a pike; but it is armed with +scales so strong that a poniard could not pierce them. Its color is +silver-gray. The extremity of its snout is like that of a swine. This fish +makes war upon all others in the lakes and rivers. It also possesses +remarkable dexterity, as these people informed me, which is exhibited in +the following manner. When it wants to capture birds, it swims in among the +rushes, or reeds, which are found on the banks of the lake in several +places, where it puts its snout out of water and keeps perfectly still: so +that, when the birds come and light on its snout, supposing it to be only +the stump of a tree, it adroitly closes it, which it had kept ajar, and +pulls the birds by the feet down under water. The savages gave me the head +of one of them, of which they make great account, saying that, when they +have the headache, they bleed themselves with the teeth of this fish on the +spot where they suffer pain, when it suddenly passes away. + +Continuing our course over this lake on the western side, I noticed, while +observing the country, some very high mountains on the eastern side, on the +top of which there was snow. [344] I made inquiry of the savages whether +these localities were inhabited, when they told me that the Iroquois dwelt +there, and that there were beautiful valleys in these places, with plains +productive in grain, such as I had eaten in this country, together with +many kinds of fruit without limit. [345] They said also that the lake +extended near mountains, some twenty-five leagues distant from us, as I +judge. I saw, on the south, other mountains, no less high than the first, +but without any snow. [346] The savages told me that these mountains were +thickly settled, and that it was there we were to find their enemies; but +that it was necessary to pass a fall in order to go there (which I +afterwards saw), when we should enter another lake, nine or ten leagues +long. After reaching the end of the lake, we should have to go, they said, +two leagues by land, and pass through a river flowing into the sea on the +Norumbegue coast, near that of Florida, [347] whither it took them only two +days to go by canoe, as I have since ascertained from some prisoners we +captured, who gave me minute information in regard to all they had personal +knowledge of, through some Algonquin interpreters, who understood the +Iroquois language. + +Now, as we began to approach within two or three days' journey of the abode +of their enemies, we advanced only at night, resting during the day. But +they did not fail to practise constantly their accustomed superstitions, in +order to ascertain what was to be the result of their undertaking; and they +often asked me if I had had a dream, and seen their enemies, to which I +replied in the negative. Yet I did not cease to encourage them, and inspire +in them hope. When night came, we set out on the journey until the next +day, when we withdrew into the interior of the forest, and spent the rest +of the day there. About ten or eleven o'clock, after taking a little walk +about our encampment, I retired. While sleeping, I dreamed that I saw our +enemies, the Iroquois, drowning in the lake near a mountain, within sight. +When I expressed a wish to help them, our allies, the savages, told me we +must let them all die, and that they were of no importance. When I awoke, +they did not fail to ask me, as usual, if I had had a dream. I told them +that I had, in fact, had a dream. This, upon being related, gave them so +much confidence that they did not doubt any longer that good was to happen +to them. + +When it was evening, we embarked in our canoes to continue our course; and, +as we advanced very quietly and without making any noise, we met on the +29th of the month the Iroquois, about ten o'clock at evening, at the +extremity of a cape which extends into the lake on the western bank. They +had come to fight. We both began to utter loud cries, all getting their +arms in readiness. We withdrew out on the water, and the Iroquois went on +shore, where they drew up all their canoes close to each other and began to +fell trees with poor axes, which they acquire in war sometimes, using also +others of stone. Thus they barricaded themselves very well. + +Our forces also passed the entire night, their canoes being drawn up close +to each other, and fastened to poles, so that they might not get separated, +and that they might be all in readiness to fight, if occasion required. We +were out upon the water, within arrow range of their barricades. When they +were armed and in array, they despatched two canoes by themselves to the +enemy to inquire if they wished to fight, to which the latter replied that +they wanted nothing else; but they said that, at present, there was not +much light, and that it would be necessary to wait for daylight, so as to +be able to recognize each other; and that, as soon as the sun rose, they +would offer us battle. This was agreed to by our side. Meanwhile, the +entire night was spent in dancing and singing, on both sides, with endless +insults and other talk; as, how little courage we had, how feeble a +resistance we would make against their arms, and that, when day came, we +should realize it to our ruin. Ours also were not slow in retorting, +telling them they would see such execution of arms as never before, +together with an abundance of such talk as is not unusual in the siege of a +town. After this singing, dancing, and bandying words on both sides to the +fill, when day came, my companions and myself continued under cover, for +fear that the enemy would see us. We arranged our arms in the best manner +possible, being, however, separated, each in one of the canoes of the +savage Montagnais. After arming ourselves with light armor, we each took an +arquebuse, and went on shore. I saw the enemy go out of their barricade, +nearly two hundred in number, stout and rugged in appearance. They came at +a slow pace towards us, with a dignity and assurance which greatly amused +me, having three chiefs at their head. Our men also advanced in the same +order, telling me that those who had three large plumes were the chiefs, +and that they had only these three, and that they could be distinguished by +these plumes, which were much larger than those of their companions, and +that I should do what I could to kill them. I promised to do all in my +power, and said that I was very sorry they could not understand me, so that +I might give order and shape to their mode of attacking their enemies, and +then we should, without doubt, defeat them all; but that this could not now +be obviated, and that I should be very glad to show them my courage and +good-will when we should engage in the fight. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OP THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +DEFEAT OF THE IROQUOIS AT LAKE CHAMPLAIN. + +_A_. The fort of the Iroquois. +_B_. The enemy. +_C_. Canoes of the enemy, made of oak bark, each holding ten, fifteen, or + eighteen men. +_D_. Two chiefs who were killed. +_E_. One of the enemy wounded by a musket-shot of Sieur de Champlain. +_F_. Sieur de Champlain. +_G_. Two musketeers of Sieur de Champlain. +_H_. Montagnais, Ochastaiguins, and Algonquins. +_I_. Canoes of our allied savages made of birch bark. +_K_. The woods. + +NOTES. The letters _A_, _F_, _G_, and _K_, are wanting but the objects to +which they point are easily recognized. The letter _H_ has been placed on +the canoes of the allies instead of the collected body of the allies +immediately above them. + + * * * * * + +As soon as we had landed, they began to run for some two hundred paces +towards their enemies, who stood firmly, not having as yet noticed my +companions, who went into the woods with some savages. Our men began to +call me with loud cries; and, in order to give me a passage-way, they +opened in two parts, and put me at their head, where I marched some twenty +paces in advance of the rest, until I was within about thirty paces of the +enemy, who at once noticed me, and, halting, gazed at me, as I did also at +them. When I saw them making a move to fire at us, I rested my musket +against my cheek, and aimed directly at one of the three chiefs. With the +same shot, two fell to the ground; and one of their men was so wounded that +he died some time after. I had loaded my musket with four balls. When our +side saw this shot so favorable for them, they began to raise such loud +cries that one could not have heard it thunder. Meanwhile, the arrows flew +on both sides. The Iroquois were greatly astonished that two men had been +so quickly killed, although they were equipped with armor woven from cotton +thread, and with wood which was proof against their arrows. This caused +great alarm among them. As I was loading again, one of my companions fired +a shot from the woods, which astonished them anew to such a degree that, +seeing their chiefs dead, they lost courage, and took to flight, abandoning +their camp and fort, and fleeing into the woods, whither I pursued them, +killing still more of them. Our savages also killed several of them, and +took ten or twelve prisoners. The remainder escaped with the wounded. +Fifteen or sixteen were wounded on our side with arrow-shots; but they were +soon healed. + +After gaining the victory, our men amused themselves by taking a great +quantity of Indian corn and some meal from their enemies, also their armor, +which they had left behind that they might run better. After feasting +sumptuously, dancing and singing, we returned three hours after, with the +prisoners. The spot where this attack took place is in latitude 43° and +some minutes, [348] and the lake was called Lake Champlain. [349] + +ENDNOTES: + +337. The River of the Iroquois, so called by Champlain, was long known by + that name, says Charlevoix, because these Indians generally descended + it, in order to make their inroads into the colony. Fort Richelieu, at + the mouth of the river, erected in 1641, was named after the + celebrated Cardinal, the river having already taken his name. This + fort having been demolished, another was built by M. de Sorel, a + French officer in command, which took his name, as likewise did the + river. A fort was built on the same river at the present village of + Chambly in 1664, and called Fort St. Louis. This wooden structure was + replaced by another of stone, erected prior to 1721, to which the name + of Chambly was given, as likewise by some writers to the river. The + river has likewise sometimes been called the St. Johns, but the + prevailing name is the Richelieu. + +338. Read the 12th of July. + +339. This fall is now avoided, and the navigation of the Richelieu secured + by a canal connecting Chambly Basin and St. Johns, a distance of about + ten miles. + +340. It is not entirely certain what island is here referred to. It has + been supposed to be the Island of St. Thérèse. But, taking all of + Champlain's statements into consideration, the logical inference would + be that it is the Isle aux Noix. + +341. "These two words were used in Acadie to indicate the _jongleur_, or + sorcerer. The word _pilotois_, according to P. Biard, Rel. 1611, + p. 17, came from the Basques, the Souriquois using the word _autmoin_, + which Lescarbot writes _aoutmoin_, and Champlain _ostemoy_. + P. Lejeune, in the Relation of 1636, p. 13, informs us that the + Montagnais called their Sorcerers _manitousiouekbi_: and according to + P. Brébeuf. Rel. 1635. p.35. the Hurons designated theirs by the name + _arendiouane_."--_Laverdière, in loco_. + +342. The distances are here overstated by more than threefold, both in + reference to the lake and the islands. This arose, perhaps, from the + slow progress made in the birch canoes with a party of sixty + undisciplined savages, a method of travelling to which Champlain was + unaccustomed; and he may likewise have been misled by the + exaggerations of the Indians, or he may have failed to comprehend + their representation of distances. + +343. Of the meaning of _chaousarou_, the name given by the Indians to this + fish, we have no knowledge. It is now known as the bony-scaled pike, + or gar pike, _Lepidosteus osseus_. It is referred to by several early + writers after Champlain. + + "I saw," says Sagard, "in the cabin of a Montagnais Indian a certain + fish, which some call Chaousarou, as big as a large pike. It was only + an ordinary sized one, for many larger ones are seen, eight, nine, and + ten feet long, as is said. It had a snout about a foot and a half + long, of about the same shape as that of the snipe, except that the + extremity is blunt and not so pointed, and of a large size in + proportion to the body. It has a double row of teeth, which are very + sharp and dangerous;... and the form of the body is like that of a + pike, but it is armed with very stout and hard scales, of silver gray + color, and difficult to be pierced."--_Sagard's History of Canada_, + Bk. _iii_. p. 765; _Laverdière_. Sagard's work was published in 1636. + He had undoubtedly seen this singular fish; but his description is so + nearly in the words of Champlain as to suggest that he had taken it + from our author. + + Creuxius, in his History of Canada, published at Paris in 1664, + describes this fish nearly in the words of Champlain, with an + engraving sufficiently accurate for identification, but greatly + wanting in scientific exactness. He adds, "It is not described by + ancient authors, probably because it is only found in the Lake of the + Iroquois;" that is, in Lake Champlain. From which it may be inferred + that at that time it had not been discovered in other waters. By the + French, he says, it is called _piscis armatus_. This is in evident + allusion to its bony scales, in which it is protected as in a coat of + mail. + + It is described by Dr. Kay in the Natural History of New York, + Zoölogy, Part I. p 271. On Plate XLIII. Fig. 139, of the same work, + the reader will observe that the head of the fish there represented + strikingly resembles that of the chaousarou of Champlain as depicted + on his map of 1612. The drawing by Champlain is very accurate, and + clearly identifies the Gar Pike. This singular fish has been found in + Lake Champlain, the river St. Lawrence, and in the northern lakes, + likewise in the Mississippi River, where is to be found also a closely + related species commonly called the alligator gar. In the Museum of + the Boston Society of Natural History are several specimens, one of + them from St. John's River, Florida, four feet and nine inches in + length, of which the head is seventeen and a half inches. If the body + of those seen by Champlain was five feet, the head two and a half feet + would be in about the usual proportion. + +344. The Green Mountain range in Vermont, generally not more than twenty or + twenty-five miles distant. Champlain was probably deceived as to the + snow on their summits in July. What he saw was doubtless white + limestone, which might naturally enough be taken for snow in the + absence of any positive knowledge. The names of the summits visible + from the lake are the following, with their respective heights. The + Chin, 4,348 feet; The Nose, 4,044; Camel's Hump, 4,083; Jay's Peak, + 4,018; Killington Peak, 3,924. This region was at an early period + called _Irocosia_. + +345. This is not an inaccurate description of the beautiful as well as rich + and fertile valleys to be found among the hills of Vermont. + +346. On entering the lake, they saw the Adirondack Mountains, which would + appear very nearly in the south. The points visible from the lake were + Mt. Marcy, 5,467 feet high above tide-water; Dix's Peak, 5,200; Nipple + Top, 4,900; Whiteface, 4,900; Raven Hill, 2,100; Bald Peak, 2,065.-- + _Vide Palmer's Lake Champlain_, p. 12. + +347. The river here referred to is the Hudson. By passing from Lake + Champlain through the small stream that connects it with Lake George, + over this latter lake and a short carrying place, the upper waters of + the Hudson are reached. The coast of Norumbegue and that of Florida + were both indefinite regions, not well defined by geographers of that + day. These terms were supplied by Champlain, and not by his + informants. He could not of course tell precisely where this unknown + river reached the sea, but naturally inferred that it was on the + southern limit of Norumbegue, which extended from the Penobscot + towards Florida, which latter at that time was supposed to extend from + the Gulf of Mexico indefinitely to the north. + +348. This battle, or Skirmish, clearly took place at Ticonderoga, or + _Cheonderoga_, as the Indians called it, where a cape juts out into + the lake, as described by Champlain. This is the logical inference to + be drawn from the whole narrative. It is to be observed that the + purpose of the Indians, whom Champlain was accompanying, was to find + their enemies, the Iroquois, and give them battle. The journey, or + warpath, had been clearly marked out and described by the Indians to + Champlain, as may be seen in the text. It led them along the western + shore of the lake to the outlet of Lake George, over the fall in the + little stream connecting the two lakes, through Lake George, and + thence to the mountains beyond, where the Iroquois resided. They found + the Iroquois, however, on the lake; gave them battle on the little + cape alluded to; and after the victory and pursuit for some distance + into the forest, and the gathering up of the spoils, Champlain and his + allies commenced their journey homeward. But Champlain says he saw the + fall in the stream that connects the two lakes. Now this little stream + flows into Lake Champlain at Ticonderoga, and he would naturally have + seen the fall, if the battle took place there, while in pursuit of the + Iroquois into the forest, as described in the text. The fall was in + the line of the retreat of the Iroquois towards their home, and is + only a mile and three-quarters from the cape jutting out into the lake + at Ticonderoga. If the battle had occurred at any point north of + Ticonderoga, he could not have seen the fall, as they retreated + immediately after the battle: if it had taken place south of that + point, it would have been off the war-path which they had determined + to pursue. We must conclude, therefore, that the battle took place at + Ticonderoga, a little north of the ruins of the old Fort Carillon, + directly on the shore of the lake. If the reader will examine the plan + of the battle as given by Champlain's engraving, he will see that it + conforms with great exactness to the known topography of the place. + The Iroquois, who had their choice of positions are on the north, in + the direction of Willow Point, where they can most easily retreat, and + where Champlain and his allies can be more easily hemmed in near the + point of the cape. The Iroquois are on lower ground, and we know that + the surface there shelves to the north. The well-known sandy bottom of + the lake at this place would furnish the means of fastening the + canoes, by forcing poles into it, a little out from the shore during + the night, as they actually did. On Champlain's map of 1632, this + point is referred to as the location of the battle; and in his note on + the map, No. 65, he says this is the place where the Iroquois were + defeated by Champlain. All the facts of the narrative thus point to + Ticonderoga, and render it indisputable that this was the scene of the + first of the many recorded conflicts on this memorable lake. We should + not have entered into this discussion so fully, had not several + writers, not well informed, expressed views wholly inconsistent with + known facts. + +349. The Indian name of Lake Champlain is _Caniaderiguaronte_, the lake + that is the gate of the country.--_Vide Administration of the + Colonies_, by Thomas Pownall. 1768, p. 267. This name was very + significant, since the lake and valley of Champlain was the "gate," or + war-path, by which the hostile tribes of Iroquois approached their + enemies on the north of the St. Lawrence, and _vice-versa_. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +RETURN FROM THE BATTLE, AND WHAT TOOK PLACE ON THE WAY. + + +After going some eight leagues, towards evening they took one of the +prisoners, to whom they made a harangue, enumerating the cruelties which he +and his men had already practised towards them without any mercy, and that, +in like manner, he ought to make up his mind to receive as much. They +commanded him to sing, if he had courage, which he did; but it was a very +sad song. + +Meanwhile, our men kindled a fire; and, when it was well burning, they each +took a brand, and burned this poor creature gradually, so as to make him +suffer greater torment. Sometimes they stopped, and threw water on his +back. Then they tore out his nails, and applied fire to the extremities of +his fingers and private member. Afterwards, they flayed the top of his +head, and had a kind of gum poured all hot upon it; then they pierced his +arms near the wrists, and, drawing up the sinews with sticks, they tore +them out by force; but, seeing that they could not get them, they cut +them. This poor wretch uttered terrible cries, and it excited my pity to +see him treated in this manner, and yet showing such firmness that one +would have said, at times, that he suffered hardly any pain at all. They +urged me strongly to take some fire, and do as they did. I remonstrated +with them, saying that we practised no such cruelties, but killed them at +once; and that, if they wished me to fire a musket-shot at him, I should be +willing to do so. They refused, saying that he would not in that case +suffer any pain. I went away from them, pained to see such cruelties as +they practised upon his body. When they saw that I was displeased, they +called me, and told me to fire a musket-shot at him. This I did without his +feeling it, and thus put an end, by a single shot, to all the torments he +would have suffered, rather than see him tyrannized over. After his death, +they were not yet satisfied, but opened him, and threw his entrails into +the lake. Then they cut off his head, arms, and legs, which they scattered +in different directions; keeping the scalp which they had flayed off, as +they had done in the case of all the rest whom they had killed in the +contest. They were guilty also of another monstrosity in taking his heart, +cutting it into several pieces, and giving it to a brother of his to eat, +as also to others of his companions, who were prisoners: they took it into +their mouths, but would not swallow it. Some Algonquin savages, who were +guarding them, made some of them spit it out, when they threw it into the +water. This is the manner in which these people behave towards those whom +they capture in war, for whom it would be better to die fighting, or to +kill themselves on the spur of the moment, as many do, rather than fall +into the hands of their enemies. After this execution, we set out on our +return with the rest of the prisoners, who kept singing as they went along, +with no better hopes for the future than he had had who was so wretchedly +treated. + +Having arrived at the falls of the Iroquois, the Algonquins returned to +their own country; so also the Ochateguins, [350] with a part of the +prisoners: well satisfied with the results of the war, and that I had +accompanied them so readily. We separated accordingly with loud +protestations of mutual friendship; and they asked me whether I would not +like to go into their country, to assist them with continued fraternal +relations; and I promised that I would do so. + +I returned with the Montagnais. After informing myself from the prisoners +in regard to their country, and of its probable extent, we packed up the +baggage for the return, which was accomplished with such despatch that we +went every day in their canoes twenty-five or thirty leagues, which was +their usual rate of travelling. When we arrived at the mouth of the river +Iroquois, some of the savages dreamed that their enemies were pursuing +them. This dream led them to move their camp forthwith, although the night +was very inclement on account of the wind and rain; and they went and +passed the remainder of the night, from fear of their enemies, amid high +reeds on Lake St. Peter. Two days after, we arrived at our settlement, +where I gave them some bread and peas; also some beads, which they asked me +for, in order to ornament the heads of their enemies, for the purpose of +merry-making upon their return. The next day, I went with them in their +canoes as far as Tadoussac, in order to witness their ceremonies. On +approaching the shore, they each took a stick, to the end of which they +hung the heads of their enemies, who had been killed, together with some +beads, all of them singing. When they were through with this, the women +undressed themselves, so as to be in a state of entire nudity, when they +jumped into the water, and swam to the prows, of the canoes to take the +heads of their enemies, which were on the ends of long poles before their +boats: then they hung them about their necks, as if it had been some costly +chain, singing and dancing meanwhile. Some days after, they presented me +with one of these heads, as if it were something very precious; and also +with a pair of arms taken from their enemies, to keep and show to the +king. This, for the sake of gratifying them, I promised to do. + +After some days, I went to Quebec, whither some Algonquin savages came, +expressing their regret at not being present at the defeat of their +enemies, and presenting me with some furs, in consideration of my having +gone there and assisted their friends. + +Some days after they had set out for their country, distant about a hundred +and twenty leagues from our settlement, I went to Tadoussac to see whether +Pont Gravé had returned from Gaspé, whither he had gone. He did not arrive +until the next day, when he told me that he had decided to return to +France. We concluded to leave an upright man, Captain Pierre Chavin of +Dieppe, to command at Quebec, until Sieur de Monts should arrange matters +there. + + +ENDNOTES: + +350. The Indian allies on this expedition were the Algonquins + (_Algoumequins_), the Hurons (_Ochatequins_), and the Montagnais + (_Montagnets_). The two former, on their way to Quebec, had met + Champlain near the river St. Anne, and joined him and the Montagnais, + who belonged in the neighborhood of Tadoussac, or farther east.--_Vide + antea_, p. 202. They now, at the falls near the Basin of Chambly, + departed to their homes, perhaps on the Ottawa River and the shores of + Lake Huron. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +RETURN TO FRANCE, AND WHAT OCCURRED UP TO THE TIME OP RE-EMBARKATION. + + +After forming this resolution, we went to Quebec to establish him in +authority, and leave him every thing requisite and necessary for the +settlement, together with fifteen men. Every thing being arranged, we set +out on the first day of September [351] for Tadoussac, in order to fit out +our vessel for returning to France. + +We set out accordingly from the latter place on the 5th of the month, and +on the 8th anchored at Isle Percée. On Thursday the 10th, we set out from +there, and on the 18th, the Tuesday following, we arrived at the Grand +Bank. On the 2d of October, we got soundings. On the 8th, we anchored at +Conquet [352] in Lower Brittany. On Saturday the 10th, we set out from +there, arriving at Honfleur on the 13th. + +After disembarking, I did not wait long before taking post to go to Sieur +de Monts, who was then at Fontainebleau, where His Majesty was. Here I +reported to him in detail all that had transpired in regard to the winter +quarters and our new explorations, and my hopes for the future in view of +the promises of the savages called Ochateguins, who are good Iroquois. +[353] The other Iroquois, their enemies, dwell more to the south. The +language of the former does not differ much from that of the people +recently discovered and hitherto unknown to us, which they understand when +spoken. + +I at once waited upon His Majesty, and gave him an account of my voyage, +which afforded him pleasure and satisfaction. I had a girdle made of +porcupine quills, very well worked, after the manner of the country where +it was made, and which His Majesty thought very pretty. I had also two +little birds, of the size of blackbirds and of a carnation color; [354] +also, the head of a fish caught in the great lake of the Iroquois, having a +very long snout and two or three rows of very sharp teeth. A representation +of this fish may be found on the great lake, on my geographical map. [355] + +After I had concluded my interview with His Majesty, Sieur de Monts +determined to go to Rouen to meet his associates, the Sieurs Collier and Le +Gendre, merchants of Rouen, to consider what should be done the coming +year. They resolved to continue the settlement, and finish the explorations +up the great river St. Lawrence, in accordance with the promises of the +Ochateguins, made on condition that we should assist them in their wars, as +I had given them to understand. + +Pont Gravé was appointed to go to Tadoussac, not only for traffic, but to +engage in any thing else that might realize means for defraying the +expenses. + +Sieur Lucas Le Gendre, of Rouen, one of the partners, was ordered to see to +the purchase of merchandise and supplies, the repair of the vessels, +obtaining crews, and other things necessary for the voyage. + +After these matters were arranged, Sieur de Monts returned to Paris, I +accompanying him, where I stayed until the end of February. During this +time, Sieur de Monts endeavored to obtain a new commission for trading in +the newly discovered regions, and where no one had traded before. This he +was unable to accomplish, although his requests and proposals were just and +reasonable. + +But, finding that there was no hope of obtaining this commission, he did +not cease to prosecute his plan, from his desire that every thing might +turn out to the profit and honor of France. + +During this time, Sieur de Monts did not express to me his pleasure in +regard to me personally, until I told him it had been reported to me that +he did not wish to have me winter in Canada, which, however, was not true, +for he referred the whole matter to my pleasure. + +I provided myself with whatever was desirable and necessary for spending +the winter at our settlement in Quebec. For this purpose I set out from +Paris the last day of February following, [356] and proceeded to Honfleur, +where the embarkation was to be made. I went by way of Rouen, where I +stayed two days. Thence I went to Honfleur, where I found Pont Gravé and Le +Gendre, who told me they had embarked what was necessary for the +settlement. I was very glad to find that we were ready to set sail, but +uncertain whether the supplies were good and adequate for our sojourn and +for spending the winter. + +ENDNOTES: + +351. September, 1609. + +352. A small seaport town in the department of Finisterre, twelve miles + west of Brest. + +353. The Ochateguins, called by the French Hurons, were a branch of the + Iroquois. Their real name was Yendots. They were at this time allied + with the Algonquins, in a deadly war with their Iroquois cousins, the + Five Nations.--_Vide Gallatins Synopsis_, Transactions of Am. Antiq. + Society, Cambridge, 1836, Vol. II. p. 69, _et passim_. + +354. The Scarlet tanager, _Pyranga rubra_, of a scarlet color, with black + wings and tail. It ranges from Texas to Lake Huron. + +355. _Vide antea_, p. 216; and map. 1612. + +356. Anno Domini 1610. + + + +SECOND VOYAGE +OF +SIEUR. DE CHAMPLAIN +TO NEW FRANCE, IN THE YEAR 1610. + + + +CHAPTER I. + +DEPARTURE FROM FRANCE TO RETURN TO NEW FRANCE, AND OCCURRENCES UNTIL OUR +ARRIVAL AT THE SETTLEMENT. + + +The weather having become favorable, I embarked at Honfleur with a number +of artisans on the 7th of the month of March. [357] But, encountering bad +weather in the Channel, we were obliged to put in on the English coast at a +place called Porlan, [358] in the roadstead of which we stayed some days, +when we weighed anchor for the Isle d'Huy, [359] near the English coast, +since we found the roadstead of Porlan very bad. When near this island, so +dense a fog arose, that we were obliged to put in at the Hougue. [360] + +Ever since the departure from Honfleur, I had been afflicted with a very +severe illness, which took away my hopes of being able to make the voyage; +so that I embarked in a boat to return to Havre in France, to be treated +there, being very ill on board the vessel. My expectation was, on +recovering my health, to embark again in another vessel, which had not yet +left Honfleur, in which Des Marais, son-in-law of Pont Gravé, was to +embark; but I had myself carried, still very ill, to Honfleur, where the +vessel on which I had set out put in on the 15th of March, for some +ballast, which it needed in order to be properly trimmed. Here it remained +until the 8th of April. During this time, I recovered in a great degree; +and, though still feeble and weak, I nevertheless embarked again. + +We set out anew on the 18th of April, arriving at the Grand Bank on the +19th, and fighting the Islands of St. Pierre on the 22nd. [361] When off +Menthane, we met a vessel from St. Malo, on which was a young man, who, +while drinking to the health of Pont Gravé, lost control of himself and was +thrown into the Sea by the motion of the vessel and drowned, it being +impossible to render him assistance on account of the violence of the wind. + +On the 26th of the month, we arrived at Tadoussac, where there were vessels +which had arrived on the 18th, a thing which had not been seen for more +than sixty years, as the old mariners said who sail regularly to this +country. [362] This was owing to the mild winter and the small amount of +ice, which did not prevent the entrance of these vessels. We learned from a +young nobleman, named Sieur du Parc, who had spent the winter at our +settlement, that all his companions were in good health, only a few having +been ill, and they but slightly. He also informed us that there had been +scarcely any winter, and that they had usually had fresh meat the entire +season, and that their hardest task had been to keep up good cheer. + +This winter shows how those undertaking in future such enterprises ought to +proceed, it being very difficult to make a new settlement without labor; +and without encountering adverse fortune the first year, as has been the +case in all our first settlements. But, in fact, by avoiding salt food and +using fresh meat, the health is as good here as in France. + +The savages had been waiting from day to day for us to go to the war with +them. When they learned that Pont Gravé and I had arrived together, they +rejoiced greatly, and came to speak with us. + +I went on shore to assure them that we would go with them, in conformity +with the promises they had made me, namely, that upon our return from the +war they would show me the Trois Rivières, and take me to a sea so large +that the end of it cannot be seen, whence we should return by way of the +Saguenay to Tadoussac. I asked them if they still had this intention, to +which they replied that they had, but that it could not be carried out +before the next year, which pleased me. But I had promised the Algonquins +and Ochateguins that I would assist them also in their wars, they having +promised to show me their country, the great lake, some copper mines, and +other things, which they had indicated to me. I accordingly had two strings +to my bow, so that, in case one should break, the other might hold. + +On the 28th of the month, I set out from Tadoussac for Quebec, where I +found Captain Pierre, [363] who commanded there, and all his companions in +good health. There was also a savage captain with them, named Batiscan, +with some of his companions, who were awaiting us, and who were greatly +pleased at my arrival, singing and dancing the entire evening. I provided a +banquet for them, which gratified them very much. They had a good meal, for +which they were very thankful, and invited me with seven others to an +entertainment of theirs, not a small mark of respect with them. We each +one carried a porringer, according to custom, and brought it home full of +meat, which we gave to whomsoever we pleased. + +Some days after I had set out from Tadoussac, the Montagnais arrived at +Quebec, to the number of sixty able-bodied men, en route for the war. They +tarried here some days, enjoying themselves, and not omitting to ply me +frequently with questions, to assure themselves that I would not fail in my +promises to them. I assured them, and again made promises to them, asking +them if they had found me breaking my word in the past. They were greatly +pleased when I renewed my promises to them. + +They said to me: "Here are numerous Basques and Mistigoches" (this is the +name they give to the Normans and people of St. Malo), "who say they will +go to the war with us. What do you think of it? Do they speak the truth?" +I answered no, and that I knew very well what they really meant; that they +said this only to get possession of their commodities. They replied to me: +"You have spoken the truth. They are women, and want to make war only upon +our beavers." They went on talking still farther in a facetious mood, and +in regard to the manner and order of going to the war. + +They determined to set out, and await me at the Trois Rivières, thirty +leagues above Quebec, where I had promised to join them, together with four +barques loaded with merchandise, in order to traffic in peltries, among +others with the Ochateguins, who were to await me at the mouth of the river +of the Iroquois, as they had promised the year before, and to bring there +as many as four hundred men to go to the war. + + +ENDNOTES: + +357. In the title above, Champlain calls this his SECOND VOYAGE, by which + he means doubtless to say that this is the second voyage which he had + undertaken as lieutenant. The first and second voyages, of 1603 and of + 1604, were not made under his direction. + +358. Portland in Dorsetshire, England. + +359. _Isle d'Huy_. This plainly refers to the Isle of Wight. On Ortelius's + carte of 1603. it is spelled Vigt: and the orthography, obtained + probably through the ear and not the eye, might easily have been + mistaken by Champlain. + +360. _La Hougue_. There are two small islands laid down on the carte of + Ortelius. 1603, under the name _Les Hougueaux_, and a hamlet nearby + called Hougo, which is that, doubtless, to which Chaimplain here + refers. + +361. Comparing this statement with the context, it will be clear that the + passage should read the 8th, and not the 18th of April. The "Islands + of St. Pierre," _Isles S. Pierre_, includes the Island of St. Peter + and the cluster surrounding it. + +362. M. Ferland infers from this statement that the Basques, Normans, and + Bretons had been accustomed for the last sixty years, from the last + voyage of Roberval in 1549, to extend their fishing and fur-trading + voyages as far as Tadoussac.--_Vide Cours d'Hist. du Canada_, as cited + by Laverdière. + +363. Captain Pierre Chavin, of Dieppe. _Vide antea_, p. 227. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +DEPARTURE FROM QUEBEC TO ASSIST OUR ALLIED SAVAGES IN THEIR WAR AGAINST THE +IROQUOIS, THEIR ENEMIES; AND ALL THAT TRANSPIRED UNTIL OUR RETURN TO THE +SETTLEMENT. + + +I set out from Quebec on the 14th of June, to meet the Montagnais, +Algonquins, and Ochateguins, who were to be at the mouth of the river of +the Iroquois. When I was eight leagues from Quebec, I met a canoe, +containing two savages, one an Algonquin, and the other a Montagnais, who +entreated me to advance as rapidly as possible, saying that the Algonquins +and Ochateguins would in two days be at the rendezvous, to the number of +two hundred, with two hundred others to come a little later, together with +Yroquet, one of their chiefs. They asked me if I was satisfied with the +coming of these savages. I told them I could not be displeased at it, since +they had kept their word. They came on board my barque, where I gave them a +good entertainment. Shortly after conferring with them about many matters +concerning their wars, the Algonquin savage, one of their chiefs, drew from +a sack a piece of copper a foot long, which he gave me. This was very +handsome and quite pure. He gave me to understand that there were large +quantities where he had taken this, which was on the bank of a river, near +a great lake. He said that they gathered it in lumps, and, having melted +it, spread it in sheets, smoothing it with stones. I was very glad of this +present, although of small value. [364] + +Arriving at Trois Rivières, I found all the Montagnais awaiting me, and the +four barques as I stated above, which had gone to trade with them. + +The savages were delighted to see me, and I went on shore to speak with +them. They entreated me, together with my companions, to embark on their +canoes and no others, when we went to the war, saying that they were our +old friends. This I promised them, telling them that I desired to set out +at once, since the wind was favorable; and that my barque was not so swift +as their canoes, for which reason I desired to go on in advance. They +earnestly entreated me to wait until the morning of the next day, when we +would all go together, adding that they would not go faster than I should. +Finally, to satisfy them, I promised to do this, at which they were greatly +pleased. + +On the following day, we all set out together, and continued our route +until the morning of the next day, the 19th of the month, when we arrived +at an island [365] off the river of the Iroquois, and waited for the +Algonquins, who were to be there the same day. While the Montagnais were +felling trees to clear a place for dancing, and for arranging themselves +for the arrival of the Algonquins, an Algonquin canoe was suddenly seen +coming in haste, to bring word that the Algonquins had fallen in with a +hundred Iroquois, who were strongly barricaded, and that it would be +difficult to conquer them, unless they should come speedily, together with +the Matigoches, as they call us. + +The alarm at once sounded among them, and each one got into his canoe with +his arms. They were quickly in readiness, but with confusion; for they were +so precipitous that, instead of making haste, they hindered one another. +They came to our barque and the others, begging me, together with my +companions, to go with them in their canoes, and they were so urgent that I +embarked with four others. I requested our pilot, La Routte, to stay in the +barque, and send me some four or five more of my companions, if the other +barques would send some shallops with men to aid us; for none of the +barques were inclined to go with the savages, except Captain Thibaut, who, +having a barque there, went with me. The savages cried out to those who +remained, saying that they were woman-hearted, and that all they could do +was to make war upon their peltry. + +Meanwhile, after going some half a league, all the savages crossing the +river landed, and, leaving their canoes, took their bucklers, bows, arrows, +clubs, and swords, which they attach to the end of large sticks, and +proceeded to make their way in the woods, so fast that we soon lost sight +of them, they leaving us, five in number, without guides. This displeased +us; but, keeping their tracks constantly in sight, we followed them, +although we were often deceived. We went through dense woods, and over +swamps and marshes, with the water always up to our knees, greatly +encumbered by a pike-man's corselet, with which each one was armed. We were +also tormented in a grievous and unheard-of manner by quantities of +mosquitoes, which were so thick that they scarcely permitted us to draw +breath. After going about half a league under these circumstances, and no +longer knowing where we were, we perceived two savages passing through the +woods, to whom we called and told them to stay with us, and guide us to the +whereabouts of the Iroquois, otherwise we could not go there, and should +get lost in the woods. They stayed to guide us. After proceeding a short +distance, we saw a savage coming in haste to us, to induce us to advance as +rapidly as possible, giving me to understand that the Algonquins and +Montagnais had tried to force the barricade of the Iroquois but had been +repulsed, that some of the best men of the Montagnais had been killed in +the attempt, and several wounded, and that they had retired to wait for us, +in whom was their only hope. We had not gone an eighth of a league with +this savage, who was an Algonquin captain, before we heard the yells and +cries on both sides, as they jeered at each other, and were skirmishing +slightly while awaiting us. As soon as the savages perceived us, they began +to shout, so that one could not have heard it thunder. I gave orders to my +companions to follow me steadily, and not to leave me on any account. I +approached the barricade of the enemy, in order to reconnoitre it. It was +constructed of large trees placed one upon an other, and of a circular +shape, the usual form of their fortifications. All the Montagnais and +Algonquins approached likewise the barricade. Then we commenced firing +numerous musket-shots through the brush-wood, since we could not see them, +as they could us. I was wounded while firing my first shot at the side of +their barricade by an arrow, which pierced the end of my ear and entered my +neck. I seized the arrow, and tore it from my neck. The end of it was armed +with a very sharp stone. One of my companions also was wounded at the same +time in the arm by an arrow, which I tore out for him. Yet my wound did +not prevent me from doing my duty: our savages also, on their part, as well +as the enemy, did their duty, so that you could see the arrows fly on all +sides as thick as hail. The Iroquois were astonished at the noise of our +muskets, and especially that the balls penetrated better than their +arrows. They were so frightened at the effect produced that, seeing +several, of their companions fall wounded and dead, they threw themselves +on the ground whenever they heard a discharge, supposing that the shots +were sure. We scarcely ever missed firing two or three balls at one shot, +resting our muskets most of the time on the side of their barricade. But, +seeing that our ammunition began to fail, I said to all the savages that it +was necessary to break down their barricades and capture them by storm; and +that, in order to accomplish this, they must take their shields, cover +themselves with them, and thus approach so near as to be able to fasten +stout ropes to the posts that supported the barricades, and pull them down +by main strength, in that way making an opening large enough to permit them +to enter the fort. I told them that we would meanwhile, by our +musketry-fire, keep off the enemy, as they endeavored to prevent them from +accomplishing this; also that a number of them should get behind some large +trees, which were near the barricade, in order to throw them down upon the +enemy, and that others should protect these with their shields, in order to +keep the enemy from injuring them. All this they did very promptly. And, as +they were about finishing the work, the barques, distant a league and a +half, hearing the reports of our muskets, knew that we were engaged in +conflict; and a young man from St. Malo, full of courage, Des Prairies by +name, who like the rest had come with his barque to engage in peltry +traffic, said to his companions that it was a great shame to let me fight +in this way with the savages without coming to my assistance; that for his +part he had too high a sense of honor to permit him to do so, and that he +did not wish to expose himself to this reproach. Accordingly, he determined +to come to me in a shallop with some of his companions, together with some +of mine whom he took with him. Immediately upon his arrival, he went +towards the fort of the Iroquois, situated on the bank of the river. Here +he landed, and came to find me. Upon seeing him, I ordered our savages who +were breaking down the fortress to stop, so that the new-comers might have +their share of the sport. I requested Sieur des Prairies and his companions +to fire some salvos of musketry, before our savages should carry by storm +the enemy, as they had decided to do. This they did, each one firing +several shots, in which all did their duty well. After they had fired +enough, I addressed myself to our savages, urging them to finish the +work. Straightway, they approached the barricade, as they had previously +done, while we on the flank were to fire at those who should endeavor to +keep them from breaking it down. They behaved so well and bravely that, +with the help of our muskets, they made an opening, which, however, was +difficult to go through, as there was still left a portion as high as a +man, there being also branches of trees there which had been beaten down, +forming a serious obstacle. But, when I saw that the entrance was quite +practicable, I gave orders not to fire any more, which they obeyed. At the +same instant, some twenty or thirty, both of savages and of our own men, +entered, sword in hand, without finding much resistance. Immediately, all +who were unharmed took to flight. But they did not proceed far; for they +were brought down by those around the barricade, and those who escaped were +drowned in the river. We captured some fifteen prisoners, the rest being +killed by musket-shots, arrows, and the sword. When the fight was over, +there came another shallop, containing some of my companions. This although +behind time, was yet in season for the booty, which, however, was not of +much account. There were only robes of beaver-skin, and dead bodies, +covered with blood, which the savages would not take the trouble to +plunder, laughing at those in the last shallop, who did so; for the others +did not engage in such low business. This, then, is the victory obtained by +God's grace, for gaining which they gave us much praise. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +FORT DES IROQUOIS. + +_A_. The fort of the Iroquois. +_B_. The Iroquois throwing themselves into the river to escape the pursuit + of the Montagnais and Algonquins who followed for the purpose of + killing them. +_D_. Sieur de Champlain and five of his men. +_E_. The savages friendly to us. +_F_. Sieur des Prairies of St. Malo with his comrades. +_G_. Shallop of Sieur des Prairies. +_H_. Great trees cut down for the purpose of destroying the fort of the + Iroquois. + + * * * * * + +The savages scalped the dead, and took the heads as a trophy of victory, +according to their custom. They returned with fifty wounded Montagnais and +Algonquins and three dead, singing and leading their prisoners with them. +They attached to sticks in the prows of their canoes the heads and a dead +body cut into quarters, to eat in revenge, as they said. In this way, they +went to our barques off the River of the Iroquois. + +My companions and I embarked in a shallop, where I had my wound dressed by +the surgeon, De Boyer, of Rouen, who likewise had come here for the purpose +of traffic. The savages spent all this day in dancing and singing. + +The next day, Sieur de Pont Gravé arrived with another shallop, loaded with +merchandise. Moreover, there was also a barque containing Captain Pierre, +which he had left behind, it being able to come only with difficulty, as it +was rather heavy and a poor sailer. + +The same day there was some trading in peltry, but the other barques +carried off the better part of the booty. It was doing them a great favor +to search out a strange people for them, that they might afterwards carry +off the profit without any risk or danger. + +That day, I asked the savages for an Iroquois prisoner which they had, and +they gave him to me. What I did for him was not a little; for I saved him +from many tortures which he must have suffered in company with his +fellow-prisoners; whole nails they tore out, also cutting off their +fingers, and burning them in several places. They put to death on the same +day two or three, and, in order to increase their torture, treated them in +the following manner. + +They took the prisoners to the border of the water, and fastened them +perfectly upright to a stake. Then each came with a torch of birch bark, +and burned them, now in this place, now in that. The poor wretches, feeling +the fire, raised so loud a cry that it was something frightful to hear; and +frightful indeed are the cruelties which these barbarians practise towards +each other. After making them suffer greatly in this manner and burning +them with the above-mentioned bark, taking some water, they threw it on +their bodies to increase their suffering. Then they applied the fire anew, +so that the skin fell from their bodies, they continuing to utter loud +cries and exclamations, and dancing until the poor wretches fell dead on +the spot. + +As soon as a body fell to the ground dead, they struck it violent blows +with sticks, when they cut off the arms, legs, and other parts; and he was +not regarded by them as manly, who did not cut off a piece of the flesh, +and give it to the dogs. Such are the courtesies prisoners receive. But +still they endure all the tortures inflicted upon them with such constancy +that the spectator is astonished. + +As to the other prisoners, which remained in possession of the Algonquins +and Montagnais, it was left to their wives and daughters to put them to +death with their own hands; and, in such a matter, they do not show +themselves less inhuman than the men, but even surpass them by far in +cruelty; for they devise by their cunning more cruel punishments, in which +they take pleasure, putting an end to their lives by the most extreme +pains. + +The next day there arrived the Captain Yroquet, also another Ochateguin, +with some eighty men, who regretted greatly not having been present at the +defeat. Among all these tribes there were present nearly two hundred men, +who had never before seen Christians, for whom they conceived a great +admiration. + +We were some three days together on an island off the river of the +Iroquois, when each tribe returned to its own country. + +I had a young lad, who had already spent two winters at Quebec, and who was +desirous of going with the Algonquins to learn their language. Pont Gravé +and I concluded that, if he entertained this desire, it would be better to +send him to this place than elsewhere, that he might ascertain the nature +of their country, see the great lake, observe the rivers and tribes there, +and also explore the mines and objects of special interest in the +localities occupied by these tribes, in order that he might inform us upon +his return, of the facts of the case. We asked him if it was his desire to +go, for I did not wish to force him. But he answered the question at once +by consenting to the journey with great pleasure. + +Going to Captain Yroquet, who was strongly attached to me, I asked him if +he would like to take this young boy to his country to spend the winter +with him, and bring him back in the spring. He promised to do so, and treat +him as his own son, saying that he was greatly pleased with the idea. He +communicated the plan to all the Algonquins, who were not greatly pleased +with it, from fear that some accident might happen to the boy, which would +cause us to make war upon them. This hesitation cooled the desire of +Yroquet, who came and told me that all his companions failed to find the +plan a good one. Meanwhile, all the barques had left, excepting that of +Pont Gravé, who, having some pressing business on hand, as he told me, went +away too. But I stayed with my barque to see how the matter of the journey +of this boy, which I was desirous should take place, would result. I +accordingly went on shore, and asked to speak with the captains, who came +to me, and we sat down for a conference, together with many other savages +of age and distinction in their troops. Then I asked them why Captain +Yroquet, whom I regarded as my friend, had refused to take my boy with +him. I said that it was not acting like a brother or friend to refuse me +what he had promised, and what could result in nothing but good to them; +taking the boy would be a means of increasing still more our friendship +with them and forming one with their neighbors; that their scruples at +doing so only gave me an unfavorable opinion of them; and that if they +would not take the boy, as Captain Yroquet had promised, I would never have +any friendship with them, for they were not children to break their +promises in this manner. They then told me that they were satisfied with +the arrangement, only they feared that, from change of diet to something +worse than he had been accustomed to, some harm might happen to the boy, +which would provoke my displeasure. This they said was the only cause of +their refusal. + +I replied that the boy would be able to adapt himself without difficulty to +their manner of living and usual food, and that, if through sickness or the +fortunes of war any harm should befall him, this would not interrupt my +friendly feelings towards them, and that we were all exposed to accidents, +which we must submit to with patience. But I said that if they treated him +badly, and if any misfortune happened to him through their fault, I should +in truth be displeased, which, however, I did not expect from them, but +quite the contrary. + +They said to me: "Since then, this is your desire, we will take him, and +treat him like ourselves. But you shall also take a young man in his place, +to go to France. We shall be greatly pleased to hear him report the fine +things he shall have seen." I accepted with pleasure the proposition, and +took the young man. He belonged to the tribe of the Ochateguins, and was +also glad to go with me. This presented an additional motive for treating +my boy still better than they might otherwise have done. I fitted him out +with what he needed, and we made a mutual promise to meet at the end of +June. + +We parted with many promises of friendship. Then they went away towards the +great fall of the River of Canada, while I returned to Quebec. On my way, I +met Pont Gravé on Lake St. Peter, who was waiting for me with a large +patache, which he had fallen in with on this lake, and which had not been +expeditious enough to reach the place where the savages were, on account of +its poor sailing qualities. + +We all returned together to Quebec, when Pont Gravé went to Tadoussac, to +arrange some matters pertaining to our quarters there. But I stayed at +Quebec to see to the reconstruction of some palisades about our abode, +until Pont Gravé should return, when we could confer together as to what +was to be done. + +On the 4th of June, Des Marais arrived at Quebec, greatly to our joy; for +we were afraid that some accident had happened to him at sea. + +Some days after, an Iroquois prisoner, whom I had kept guarded, got away in +consequence of my giving him too much liberty, and made his escape, urged +to do so by fear, notwithstanding the assurances given him by a woman of +his tribe we had at our settlement. + +A few days after, Pont Gravé wrote me that he was thinking of passing the +winter at the settlement, being moved to do so by many considerations. I +replied that, if he expected to fare better than I had done in the past, he +would do well. + +He accordingly hastened to provide himself with the supplies necessary for +the settlement. + +After I had finished the palisade about our habitation, and put every thing +in order, Captain Pierre returned in a barque in which he had gone to +Tadoussac to see his friends. I also went there to ascertain what would +result from the second trading, and to attend to some other special +business which I had there. Upon my arrival, I found there Pont Gravé, who +stated to me in detail his plans, and the reasons inducing him to spend the +winter. I told him frankly what I thought of the matter; namely, that I +believed he would not derive much profit from it, according to the +appearances that were plainly to be seen. + +He determined accordingly to change his plan, and despatched a barque with +orders for Captain Pierre to return from Quebec on account of some business +he had with him; with the intelligence also that some vessels, which had +arrived from Brouage, brought the news that Monsieur de Saint Luc had come +by post from Paris, expelled those of the religion from Brouage, +re-enforced the garrison with soldiers, and then returned to Court; [366] +that the king had been killed, and two or three days after him the Duke of +Sully, together with two other lords, whose names they did not know. [367] + +All these tidings gave great sorrow to the true French in these quarters. +As for myself, it was hard for me to believe it, on account of the +different reports about the matter, and which had not much appearance of +truth. Still, I was greatly troubled at hearing such mournful news. + +Now, after having stayed three or four days longer at Tadoussac, I saw the +loss which many merchants must suffer, who had taken on board a large +quantity of merchandise, and fitted out a great number of vessels, in +expectation of doing a good business in the fur-trade, which was so poor on +account of the great number of vessels, that many will for a long time +remember the loss which they suffered this year. + +Sieur de Pont Gravé and I embarked, each of us in a barque, leaving Captain +Pierre on the vessel. We took Du Parc to Quebec, where we finished what +remained to be done at the settlement. After every thing was in good +condition, we resolved that Du Parc, who had wintered there with Captain +Pierre, should remain again, and that Captain Pierre should return to +France with us, on account of some business that called him there. + +We accordingly left Du Parc in command there, with sixteen men, all of whom +we enjoined to live soberly, and in the fear of God, and in strict +observance of the obedience due to the authority of Du Parc, who was left +as their chief and commander, just as if one of us had remained. This they +all promised to do, and to live in peace with each other. + +As to the gardens, we left them all well supplied with kitchen vegetables +of all sorts, together with fine Indian corn, wheat, rye, and barley, which +had been already planted. There were also vines which I had set out when I +spent the winter there, but these they made no attempt to preserve; for, +upon my return, I found them all in ruins, and I was greatly displeased +that they had given so little attention to the preservation of so fine and +good a plot, from which I had anticipated a favorable result. + +After seeing that every thing was in good order, we set out from Quebec on +the 8th of August for Tadoussac, in order to prepare our vessel, which was +speedily done. + + +ENDNOTES: + +364. This testimony of the Algonquin chief is interesting, and historically + important. We know of no earlier reference to the art of melting and + malleating copper in any of the reports of the navigators to our + northern coast. That the natives possessed this art is placed beyond + question by this passage, as well as by the recent discovery of copper + implements in Wisconsin, bearing the marks of mechanical fusion and + malleation. The specimens of copper in the possession of the natives + on the coast of New England, as referred to by Brereton and Archer, + can well be accounted for without supposing them to be of native + manufacture, though they may have been so. The Basques, Bretons, + English, and Portuguese had been annually on our northern coasts for + fishing and fur-trading for more than a century, and had distributed a + vast quantity of articles for savage ornament and use; and it would, + therefore, be difficult to prove that the copper chains and collars + and other trinkets mentioned by Brereton and Archer were not derived + from this source. But the testimony of the early navigators in the + less frequented region of the St. Lawrence is not open to this + interpretation. When Cartier advanced up the Gulf of Lawrence in 1535, + the savages pointed out the region of the Saguenay, which they + informed him was inhabited, and that from thence came the red copper + which they called _caignetdaze_. + + "Et par les sauuaiges que auions, nous a essé dict que cestoit le + commencement du Saguenay & terre habitable. Et que de la ve noit le + cuyure rouge qu'ilz appellent caignetdaze."--_Brief Récit_, par + Jacques Cartier, 1545. D'Avezac ed., p. 9. _Vide idem_, p. 34. + + When Cartier was at Isle Coudres, say fifty miles below Quebec, on his + return, the Indians from the Saguenay came on board his ship, and made + certain presents to their chief, Donnacona, whom Cartier had captured, + and was taking home with him to France. Among these gifts, they gave + him a great knife of red copper, which came from the Saguenay. The + words of Cartier are as follows:-- + + "Donnerent audict Donnaconan trois pacquetz de peaulx de byeures & + loups marins avec vng grand cousteau de cuyure rouge, qui vient du + Saguenay & autres choses."--_Idem_, p. 44. + + This voyage of Cartier, made in 1535, was the earliest visit by any + navigator on record to this region. It was eighty years before the + Recollects or any other missionaries had approached the Gulf of + St. Lawrence. There was, therefore, no intercourse previous to this + that would be likely to furnish the natives with European utensils of + any kind, particularly knives of _red copper_. It is impossible to + suppose that this knife, seen by Cartier, and declared by the natives + to have come from the Saguenay, a term then covering an indefinite + region stretching we know not how far to the north and west, could be + otherwise than of Indian manufacture. In the text, Champlain + distinctly states on the testimony of an Algonquin chief that it was + the custom of the Indians to melt copper for the purpose of forming it + into sheets, and it is obvious that it would require scarcely greater + ingenuity to fabricate moulds in which to cast the various implements + which they needed in their simple arts. Some of these implements, with + indubitable marks of having been cast in moulds, have been recently + discovered, with a multitude of others, which may or may not have + passed through the same process. The testimony of Champlain in the + text, and the examples of moulded copper found in the lake region, + render the evidence, in our judgment, entirely conclusive that the art + of working copper both by fusion and malleation existed among the + Indians of America at the time of its first occupation by the French. + + During the period of five years, beginning in 1871, an enthusiastic + antiquary, Mr. F. S. Perkins, of Wisconsin, collected, within the + borders of his own State, a hundred and forty-two copper implements, + of a great variety of forms, and designed for numerous uses, as axes, + hatchets, spear-heads, arrowheads, knives, gouges, chisels, adzes, + augers, gads, drills, and other articles of anomalous forms. These are + now deposited in the archives of the Historical Society of + Wisconsin. Other collections are gradually forming. The process is of + necessity slow, as they are not often found in groups, but singly, + here and there, as they are turned up by the plough or spade or other + implements of husbandry. The statement of Champlain in the text, and + the testimony of Carrier three-quarters of a century earlier, to which + we have referred, give a new historical significance to these recent + discoveries, and both together throw a fresh light upon the + prehistoric period. + +365. This was the Island St. Ignace, which lies opposite the mouth of the + river Iroquois or Richelieu. Champlain's description is not + sufficiently definite to enable us to identify the exact location of + this conflict with the savages. It is, however, evident, from several + intimations found in the text, that it was about a league from the + mouth of the Richelieu, and was probably on the bank of that river. + +366. For some account of Saint Luc, see Memoir, Vol. I. By those of the + religion, _ceux de la Religion_, are meant the Huguenots, or + Protestants. + +367. The assassination of Henry IV. occurred on the 14th of May, 1610; but + the rumor of the death of the Duke of Sully was erroneous. Maximelien + de Béthune, the Duke of Sully, died on the 22d of December, 1641, at + the age of eighty-two years. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +RETURN TO FRANCE.--MEETING A WHALE;--THE MODE OF CAPTURING THEM. + + +On the 13th of the month, we set out from Tadoussac, arriving at ÃŽle Percée +the next day, where we found a large number of vessels engaged in the +fishery, dry and green. + +On the 18th of the month, we departed from ÃŽle Percée, passing in latitude +42°, without sighting the Grand Bank, where the green fishery is carried +on, as it is too narrow at this altitude. + +When we were about half way across, we encountered a whale, which was +asleep. The vessel, passing over him, awakening him betimes, made a great +hole in him near the tail, without damaging our vessel; but he threw out an +abundance of blood. + +It has seemed to me not out of place to give here a brief description of +the mode of catching whales, which many have not witnessed, and suppose +that they are shot, owing to the false assertions about the matter made to +them in their ignorance by impostors, and on account of which such ideas +have often been obstinately maintained in my presence. + +Those, then, most skilful in this fishery are the Basques, who, for the +purpose of engaging in it, take their vessels to a place of security, and +near where they think whales are plenty. Then they equip several shallops +manned by competent men and provided with hawsers, small ropes made of the +best hemp to be found, at least a hundred and fifty fathoms long. They are +also provided with many halberds of the length of a short pike, whose iron +is six inches broad; others are from a foot and a half to two feet long, +and very sharp. Each shallop has a harpooner, the most agile and adroit man +they have, whose pay is next highest to that of the masters, his position +being the most dangerous one. This shallop being outside of the port, the +men look in all quarters for a whale, tacking about in all directions. But, +if they see nothing, they return to the shore, and ascend the highest point +they can find, and from which they can get the most extensive view. Here +they station a man on the look-out. They are aided in catching sight of a +whale both by his size and the water he spouts through his blow-holes, +which is more than a puncheon at a time, and two lances high. From the +amount of this water, they estimate how much oil he will yield. From some +they get as many as one hundred and twenty puncheons, from others less. +Having caught sight of this monstrous fish, they hasten to embark in their +shallops, and by rowing or sailing they advance until they are upon him. + +Seeing him under water, the harpooner goes at once to the prow of the +shallop with his harpoon, an iron two feet long and half a foot wide at the +lower part, and attached to a stick as long as a small pike, in the middle +of which is a hole to which the hawser is made fast. The harpooner, +watching his time, throws his harpoon at the whale, which enters him well +forward. As soon as he finds himself wounded, the whale goes down. And if +by chance turning about, as he does sometimes, his tail strikes the +shallop, it breaks it like glass. This is the only risk they run of being +killed in harpooning. As soon as they have thrown the harpoon into him, +they let the hawser run until the whale reaches the bottom. But sometimes +he does not go straight to the bottom, when he drags the shallop eight or +nine leagues or more, going as swiftly as a horse. Very often they are +obliged to cut their hawser, for fear that the whale will take them +underwater. But, when he goes straight to the bottom, he rests there +awhile, and then returns quietly to the surface, the men taking aboard +again the hawser as he rises. When he comes to the top, two or three +shallops are stationed around with halberds, with which they give him +several blows. Finding himself struck, the whale goes down again, leaving a +trail of blood, and grows weak to such an extent that he has no longer any +strength nor energy, and returning to the surface is finally killed. When +dead, he does not go down again; fastening stout ropes to him, they drag +him ashore to their head-quarters, the place where they pry out the fat of +the whale, to obtain his oil. This is the way whales are taken, and not by +cannon-shots, which many suppose, as I have stated above. + +To resume the thread of my narrative: after wounding the whale, as +mentioned, we captured a great many porpoises, which our mate harpooned to +our pleasure and amusement. We also caught a great many fish having a +large ear, with a hook and line, attaching to the hook a little fish +resembling a herring, and letting it trail behind the vessel. The large +ear, thinking it in fact a living fish, comes up to swallow it, thus +finding himself at once caught by the hook, which is concealed in the body +of the little fish. This fish is very good, and has certain tufts which are +very handsome, and resemble those worn on plumes. + +On the 22d of September, we arrived on soundings. Here we saw twenty +vessels some four leagues to the west of us, which, as they appeared from +our vessel, we judged to be Flemish. + +On the 25th of the month, we sighted the Isle de Grenezé, [368] after +experiencing a strong blow, which lasted until noon. + +On the 27th of the month, we arrived at Honfleur. + +ENDNOTES: + +368. Guernsey, which lay directly before them as they advanced up the + English Channel, and was the first large island that met the eye on + their way to Honfleur. + + + + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Voyages of Samuel de Champlain, Vol. 2, by +Samuel de Champlain + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK VOYAGES OF DE CHAMPLAIN, VOL 2 *** + +***** This file should be named 6749-0.txt or 6749-0.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/6/7/4/6749/ + +Produced by Karl Hagen, Juliet Sutherland, Charles Franks, +and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team. Images +provided courtesy of www.canadiana.org. + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will +be renamed. + +Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright +law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, +so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United +States without permission and without paying copyright +royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part +of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm +concept and trademark. Project Gutenberg is a registered trademark, +and may not be used if you charge for the eBooks, unless you receive +specific permission. If you do not charge anything for copies of this +eBook, complying with the rules is very easy. You may use this eBook +for nearly any purpose such as creation of derivative works, reports, +performances and research. They may be modified and printed and given +away--you may do practically ANYTHING in the United States with eBooks +not protected by U.S. copyright law. Redistribution is subject to the +trademark license, especially commercial redistribution. + +START: FULL LICENSE + +THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE +PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK + +To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free +distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work +(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project +Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full +Project Gutenberg-tm License available with this file or online at +www.gutenberg.org/license. + +Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works + +1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to +and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property +(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all +the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or +destroy all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your +possession. If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a +Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound +by the terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the +person or entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph +1.E.8. + +1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be +used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who +agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few +things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See +paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this +agreement and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works. See paragraph 1.E below. + +1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the +Foundation" or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection +of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual +works in the collection are in the public domain in the United +States. If an individual work is unprotected by copyright law in the +United States and you are located in the United States, we do not +claim a right to prevent you from copying, distributing, performing, +displaying or creating derivative works based on the work as long as +all references to Project Gutenberg are removed. Of course, we hope +that you will support the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting +free access to electronic works by freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm +works in compliance with the terms of this agreement for keeping the +Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with the work. You can easily +comply with the terms of this agreement by keeping this work in the +same format with its attached full Project Gutenberg-tm License when +you share it without charge with others. + +1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern +what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are +in a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, +check the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this +agreement before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, +distributing or creating derivative works based on this work or any +other Project Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no +representations concerning the copyright status of any work in any +country outside the United States. + +1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: + +1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other +immediate access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear +prominently whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work +on which the phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the +phrase "Project Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, +performed, viewed, copied or distributed: + + This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and + most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no + restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it + under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this + eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the + United States, you'll have to check the laws of the country where you + are located before using this ebook. + +1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is +derived from texts not protected by U.S. copyright law (does not +contain a notice indicating that it is posted with permission of the +copyright holder), the work can be copied and distributed to anyone in +the United States without paying any fees or charges. If you are +redistributing or providing access to a work with the phrase "Project +Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the work, you must comply +either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 or +obtain permission for the use of the work and the Project Gutenberg-tm +trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted +with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution +must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any +additional terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms +will be linked to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works +posted with the permission of the copyright holder found at the +beginning of this work. + +1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this +work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. + +1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this +electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without +prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with +active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project +Gutenberg-tm License. + +1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, +compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including +any word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access +to or distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format +other than "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official +version posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site +(www.gutenberg.org), you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense +to the user, provide a copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means +of obtaining a copy upon request, of the work in its original "Plain +Vanilla ASCII" or other form. Any alternate format must include the +full Project Gutenberg-tm License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. + +1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, +performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works +unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing +access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +provided that + +* You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from + the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method + you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is owed + to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he has + agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the Project + Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments must be paid + within 60 days following each date on which you prepare (or are + legally required to prepare) your periodic tax returns. Royalty + payments should be clearly marked as such and sent to the Project + Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the address specified in + Section 4, "Information about donations to the Project Gutenberg + Literary Archive Foundation." + +* You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies + you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he + does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm + License. You must require such a user to return or destroy all + copies of the works possessed in a physical medium and discontinue + all use of and all access to other copies of Project Gutenberg-tm + works. + +* You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of + any money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the + electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days of + receipt of the work. + +* You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free + distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work or group of works on different terms than +are set forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing +from both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and The +Project Gutenberg Trademark LLC, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm +trademark. Contact the Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. + +1.F. + +1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable +effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread +works not protected by U.S. copyright law in creating the Project +Gutenberg-tm collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may +contain "Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate +or corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other +intellectual property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or +other medium, a computer virus, or computer codes that damage or +cannot be read by your equipment. + +1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right +of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project +Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all +liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal +fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT +LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE +PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE +TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE +LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR +INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH +DAMAGE. + +1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a +defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can +receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a +written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you +received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium +with your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you +with the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in +lieu of a refund. If you received the work electronically, the person +or entity providing it to you may choose to give you a second +opportunity to receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If +the second copy is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing +without further opportunities to fix the problem. + +1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth +in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO +OTHER WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT +LIMITED TO WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. + +1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied +warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of +damages. If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement +violates the law of the state applicable to this agreement, the +agreement shall be interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or +limitation permitted by the applicable state law. The invalidity or +unenforceability of any provision of this agreement shall not void the +remaining provisions. + +1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the +trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone +providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in +accordance with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the +production, promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works, harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, +including legal fees, that arise directly or indirectly from any of +the following which you do or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this +or any Project Gutenberg-tm work, (b) alteration, modification, or +additions or deletions to any Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any +Defect you cause. + +Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm + +Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of +electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of +computers including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It +exists because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations +from people in all walks of life. + +Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the +assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's +goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will +remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure +and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future +generations. To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation and how your efforts and donations can help, see +Sections 3 and 4 and the Foundation information page at +www.gutenberg.org Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit +501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the +state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal +Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification +number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent permitted by +U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. + +The Foundation's principal office is in Fairbanks, Alaska, with the +mailing address: PO Box 750175, Fairbanks, AK 99775, but its +volunteers and employees are scattered throughout numerous +locations. Its business office is located at 809 North 1500 West, Salt +Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887. Email contact links and up to +date contact information can be found at the Foundation's web site and +official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact + +For additional contact information: + + Dr. Gregory B. Newby + Chief Executive and Director + gbnewby@pglaf.org + +Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation + +Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide +spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of +increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be +freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest +array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations +($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt +status with the IRS. + +The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating +charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United +States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a +considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up +with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations +where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To SEND +DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any particular +state visit www.gutenberg.org/donate + +While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we +have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition +against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who +approach us with offers to donate. + +International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make +any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from +outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. + +Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation +methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other +ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. To +donate, please visit: www.gutenberg.org/donate + +Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works. + +Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project +Gutenberg-tm concept of a library of electronic works that could be +freely shared with anyone. For forty years, he produced and +distributed Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of +volunteer support. + +Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as not protected by copyright in +the U.S. unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not +necessarily keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper +edition. + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search +facility: www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. + diff --git a/6749-0.zip b/6749-0.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e18c8cc --- /dev/null +++ b/6749-0.zip diff --git a/6749-8.txt b/6749-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..a9e31b5 --- /dev/null +++ b/6749-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,9531 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Voyages of Samuel de Champlain, Vol. 2, by +Samuel de Champlain + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most +other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions +whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of +the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at +www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have +to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. + +Title: Voyages of Samuel de Champlain, Vol. 2 + +Author: Samuel de Champlain + +Posting Date: October 5, 2014 [EBook #6749] +Release Date: October, 2004 +First Posted: January 21, 2003 +Last Updated: December 23, 2015 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK VOYAGES OF DE CHAMPLAIN, VOL 2 *** + + + + +Produced by Karl Hagen, Juliet Sutherland, Charles Franks, +and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team. Images +provided courtesy of www.canadiana.org. + + + + + + + + + + +Transcriber's Notes: +The original text of this edition used tall-s. These have been replaced +with ordinary 's'. The original footnotes have been converted to endnotes +and placed at the end of each chapter. The original numbering has been +retained. The number 176-1/2 and presence of two notes numbered [283] are +both original. + +THE +PUBLICATIONS OF THE PRINCE SOCIETY +Established May 25th, 1858. + +CHAMPLAIN'S VOYAGES. + + +VOYAGES +OF +SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN. + +TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH +BY CHARLES POMEROY OTIS, PH.D. + +WITH HISTORICAL ILLUSTRATIONS, +AND A +MEMOIR + +BY THE REV. EDMUND F. SLAFTER, A.M. + +VOL. II. +1604-1610. + +HELIOTYPE COPIES OF TWENTY LOCAL MAPS. + +Editor: +THE REV. EDMUND F. SLAFTER, A.M. + + + + +PREFACE. + +Champlain's edition of 1613 contains, in connection with the preliminary +matter, two pieces of poetry, one signed L'ANGE, Paris, the other MOTIN. +They were contributed doubtless by some friend, intended to be +complimentary to the author, to embellish the volume and to give it a +favorable introduction to the reader. This was in conformity to a +prevailing custom of that period. They contain no intrinsic historical +interest or value whatever, and, if introduced, would not serve their +original purpose, but would rather be an incumbrance, and they have +consequently been omitted in the present work. + +Champlain also included a summary of chapters, identical with the headings +of chapters in this translation, evidently intended to take the place of an +index, which he did not supply. To repeat these headings would be +superfluous, particularly as this work is furnished with a copious index. + +The edition of 1613 was divided into two books. This division has been +omitted here, both as superfluous and confusing. + +The maps referred to on Champlain's title-page may be found in Vol. III. of +this work. In France, the needle deflects to the east; and the dial-plate, +as figured on the larger map, that of 1612, is constructed accordingly. On +it the line marked _nornordest_ represents the true north, while the index +is carried round to the left, and points out the variation of the needle to +the west. The map is oriented by the needle without reference to its +variation, but the true meridian is laid down by a strong line on which the +degrees of latitude are numbered. From this the points of the compass +between any two places may be readily obtained. + +A Note, relating to Hudson's discoveries in 1612, as delineated on +Champlain's small map, introduced by him in the prefatory matter, +apparently after the text had been struck off, will appear in connection +with the map itself, where it more properly belongs. + +E. F. S. + +BOSTON, 11 BEACON STREET, +October 21, 1878. + + + + +TABLE OF CONTENTS + +PREFACE +CHAMPLAIN'S DEDICATION OF HIS WORK TO THE KING +ADDRESS TO THE QUEEN REGENT +EXTRACT FROM THE LICENSE +VOYAGE 1604 TO 1608 +FIRST VOYAGE AS LIEUTENANT, 1608 TO 1610 +SECOND VOYAGE AS LIEUTENANT, 1610 +LOCAL MAPS: + Port de la Hève + Port du Roissignol + Port du Mouton + Port Royal + Port des Mines + Rivière St. Jehan + Isle de Sainte Croix + Habitation de L'Isle Ste. Croix + Quinibequy + Chouacoit R. + Port St. Louis + Malle Barre + L'Abitation du Port Royal + Le Beau Port + Port Fortuné + The Attack at Port Fortuné + Port de Tadoucac + Quebec + Abitation de Quebecq + Defeat of the Iroquois at Lake Champlain +INDEX + + + + +THE VOYAGES +OF SIEUR DE CHAMPLAIN, + +Of Saintonge, Captain in ordinary to the +King in the Marine. + +OR, + +_A MOST FAITHFUL JOURNAL OF OBSERVATIONS +made in the exploration of New France, describing not only the countries, +coasts, rivers, ports, and harbors, with their latitudes and the various +deflections of the Magnetic Needle, but likewise the religious belief of +the inhabitants, their superstitions, mode of life and warfare; furnished +with numerous illustrations_. + +Together with two geographical maps: the first for the purposes of +navigation, adapted to the compass as used by mariners, which deflects to +the north-east; the other in its true meridian, with longitudes and +latitudes, to which is added the Voyage to the Strait north of Labrador, +from the 53d to the 63d degree of latitude, discovered in 1612 by the +English when they were searching for a northerly course to China. + +PARIS. + +JEAN BERJON, + +Rue St. Jean de Beauvais, at the Flying Horse, +and at his store in the Palace, +at the gallery of the Prisoners. + +MDCXIII. + +_WITH AUTHORITY OF THE KING_. + + + + +TO THE KING. + +_Sire, + +Your Majesty has doubtless full knowledge of the discoveries made in your +service in New France, called Canada, through the descriptions, given by +certain Captains and Pilots, of the voyages and discoveries made there +during the past eighty years. These, however, present nothing so honorable +to your Kingdom, or so profitable to the service of your Majesty and your +subjects, as will, I doubt not, the maps of the coasts, harbors, rivers, +and the situation of the places described in this little treatise, which I +make bold to address to your Majesty, and which is entitled a Journal of +Voyages and Discoveries, which I have made in connection with Sieur de +Monts, your Lieutenant in New France. This I do, feeling myself urged by a +just sense of the honor I have received during the last ten years in +commissions, not only, Sire, from your Majesty, but also from the late +king, Henry the Great, of happy memory, who commissioned me to make the +most exact researches and explorations in my power. This I have done, and +added, moreover, the maps contained in this little book, where I have set +forth in particular the dangers to which one would be liable. The subjects +of your Majesty, whom you may be pleased hereafter to employ for the +preservation of what has been discovered, will be able to avoid those +dangers through the knowledge afforded by the maps contained in this +treatise, which will serve as an example in your kingdom for increasing the +glory of your Majesty, the welfare of your subjects, and for the honor of +the very humble service, for which, to the happy prolongation of your days, +is indebted, + +SIRE, + +Your most humble, most obedient, +and most faithful servant and subject, + +CHAMPLAIN_. + + + + +TO THE QUEEN REGENT, + +MOTHER OF THE KING. + +MADAME, + +Of all the most useful and excellent arts, that of navigation has always +seemed to me to occupy the first place. For the more hazardous it is, and +the more numerous the perils and losses by which it is attended, so much +the more is it esteemed and exalted above all others, being wholly unsuited +to the timid and irresolute. By this art we obtain knowledge of different +countries, regions, and realms. By it we attract and bring to our own land +all kinds of riches, by it the idolatry of paganism is overthrown and +Christianity proclaimed throughout all the regions of the earth. This is +the art which from my early age has won my love, and induced me to expose +myself almost all my life to the impetuous waves of the ocean, and led me +to explore the coasts of a part of America, especially of New France, where +I have always desired to see the Lily flourish, and also the only religion, +catholic, apostolic, and Roman. This I trust now to accomplish with the +help of God, assisted by the favor of your Majesty, whom I most humbly +entreat to continue to sustain us, in order that all may succeed to the +honor of God, the welfare of France, and the splendor of your reign, for +the grandeur and prosperity of which I will pray God to attend you always +with a thousand blessings, and will remain, + +MADAME, + Your most humble, most obedient, + and most faithful servant and subject, + CHAMPLAIN. + + + + +EXTRACT FROM THE LICENSE. + +By letters patent of the KING, given at Paris the ninth of January, 1613, +and in the third year of our reign, by the King in his Council, PERREAU, +and sealed with the simple yellow seal, it is permitted to JEAN BERJON, +printer and bookseller in this city of Paris, to print, or have printed by +whomsoever it may seem good to him, a book entitled _The Voyages of Samuel +de Champlain of Saintonge, Captain in ordinary for the King in the Marine, +&c._, for the time and limit of six entire consecutive years, from the day +when this book shall have been printed up to the said time of six years. By +the same letters, in like manner all printers, merchant booksellers, and +any others whatever, are forbidden to print or have printed, to sell or +distribute said book during the aforesaid time, without the special consent +of said BERJON, or of him to whom he shall give permission, on pain of +confiscation of so many of said books as shall be found, and a +discretionary fine, as is more fully set forth in the aforesaid letters. + + + + +VOYAGES +OF +SIEUR DE CHAMPLAIN. + + +VOYAGE IN THE YEAR 1604. + +CHAPTER I. + +THE BENEFITS OF COMMERCE HAVE INDUCED SEVERAL PRINCES TO SEEK AN EASIER +ROUTE FOR TRAFFIC WITH THE PEOPLE OF THE EAST.--SEVERAL UNSUCCESSFUL +VOYAGES.--DETERMINATION OF THE FRENCH FOR THIS PURPOSE.--UNDERTAKING OF +SIEUR DE MONTS: HIS COMMISSION AND ITS REVOCATION.--NEW COMMISSION TO SIEUR +DE MONTS TO ENABLE HIM TO CONTINUE HIS UNDERTAKING. + +The inclinations of men differ according to their varied dispositions; and +each one in his calling has his particular end in view. Some aim at gain, +some at glory, some at the public weal. The greater number are engaged in +trade, and especially that which is transacted on the sea. Hence arise the +principal support of the people, the opulence and honor of states. This is +what raised ancient Rome to the sovereignty and mastery over the entire +world, and the Venetians to a grandeur equal to that of powerful kings. It +has in all times caused maritime towns to abound in riches, among which +Alexandria and Tyre are distinguished, and numerous others, which fill up +the regions of the interior with the objects of beauty and rarity obtained +from foreign nations. For this reason, many princes have striven to find a +northerly route to China, in order to facilitate commerce with the +Orientals, in the belief that this route would be shorter and less +dangerous. + +In the year 1496, the king of England commissioned John Cabot and his son +Sebastian to engage in this search. [1] About the same time, Don Emanuel, +king of Portugal, despatched on the same errand Gaspar Cortereal, who +returned without attaining his object. Resuming his journeys the year +after, he died in the undertaking; as did also his brother Michel, who was +prosecuting it perseveringly. [2] In the years 1534 and 1535, Jacques +Cartier received a like commission from King Francis I., but was arrested +in his course. [3] Six years after, Sieur de Roberval, having renewed it, +sent Jean Alfonse of Saintonge farther northward along the coast of +Labrador; [4] but he returned as wise as the others. In the years 1576, +1577, and 1578, Sir Martin Frobisher, an Englishman, made three voyages +along the northern coasts. Seven years later, Humphrey Gilbert, also an +Englishman, set out with five ships, but suffered shipwreck on Sable +Island, where three of his vessels were lost. In the same and two following +years, John Davis, an Englishman, made three voyages for the same object; +penetrating to the 72d degree, as far as a strait which is called at the +present day by his name. After him, Captain Georges made also a voyage in +1590, but in consequence of the ice was compelled to return without having +made any discovery. [5] The Hollanders, on their part, had no more precise +knowledge in the direction of Nova Zembla. + +So many voyages and discoveries without result, and attended with so much +hardship and expense, have caused us French in late years to attempt a +permanent settlement in those lands which we call New France, [6] in the +hope of thus realizing more easily this object; since the voyage in search +of the desired passage commences on the other side of the ocean, and is +made along the coast of this region. [7] These considerations had induced +the Marquis de la Roche, in 1598, to take a commission from the king for +making a settlement in the above region. With this object, he landed men +and supplies on Sable Island; [8] but, as the conditions which had been +accorded to him by his Majesty were not fulfilled, he was obliged to +abandon his undertaking, and leave his men there. A year after, Captain +Chauvin accepted another commission to transport Settlers to the same +region; [9] but, as this was shortly after revoked, he prosecuted the +matter no farther. + +After the above, [10] notwithstanding all these accidents and +disappointments, Sieur de Monts desired to attempt what had been given up +in despair, and requested a commission for this purpose of his Majesty, +being satisfied that the previous enterprises had failed because the +undertakers of them had not received assistance, who had not succeeded, in +one nor even two years' time, in making the acquaintance of the regions and +people there, nor in finding harbors adapted for a settlement. He proposed +to his Majesty a means for covering these expenses, without drawing any +thing from the royal revenues; viz., by granting to him the monopoly of the +fur-trade in this land. This having been granted to him, he made great and +excessive outlays, and carried out with him a large number of men of +various vocations. Upon his arrival, he caused the necessary number of +habitations for his followers to be constructed. This expenditure he +continued for three consecutive years, after which, in consequence of the +jealousy and annoyance of certain Basque merchants, together with some from +Brittany, the monopoly which had been granted to him was revoked by the +Council to the great injury and loss of Sieur de Monts, who, in consequence +of this revocation, was compelled to abandon his entire undertaking, +sacrificing his labors and the outfit for his settlement. + +But since a report had been made to the king on the fertility of the soil +by him, and by me on the feasibility of discovering the passage to China, +[11] without the inconveniences of the ice of the north or the heats of the +torrid zone, through which our sailors pass twice in going and twice in +returning, with inconceivable hardships and risks, his Majesty directed +Sieur de Monts to make a new outfit, and send men to continue what he had +commenced. This he did. And, in view of the uncertainty of his commission, +[12] he chose a new spot for his settlement, in order to deprive jealous +persons of any such distrust as they had previously conceived. He was also +influenced by the hope of greater advantages in case of settling in the +interior, where the people are civilized, and where it is easier to plant +the Christian faith and establish such order as is necessary for the +protection of a country, than along the sea-shore, where the savages +generally dwell. From this course, he believed the king would derive an +inestimable profit; for it is easy to suppose that Europeans will seek out +this advantage rather than those of a jealous and intractable disposition +to be found on the shores, and the barbarous tribes. [13] + +ENDNOTES: + +1. The first commission was granted by Henry VII. of England to John Cabot + and his three sons, Lewis, Sebastian, and Sancius, March 5, 1496.-- + _Rymer's Foedera_, Vol. XII. p. 595. The first voyage, however, was made + in 1497. The second commission was granted to John Cabot alone, in + 1498.--_Vide Hakluyt_, 1600, London, ed. 1810, Vol. III. pp. 25-31. + +2. Cortereal made two voyages under the patronage of Emmanuel, King of + Portugal, the first in 1500, the second in 1501. In the latter year, he + sailed with two ships from Lisbon, and explored six hundred miles or + more on our northern coast. The vessel in which he sailed was lost; and + he perished, together with fifty natives whom he had captured. The other + vessel returned, and reported the incidents of the expedition. The next + year, Michael Cortereal, the brother of Gaspar, obtained a commission, + and went in search of his brother; but he did not return, and no tidings + were ever heard of him. + +3. Jacques Cartier made three voyages in 1534, 1535, and 1540, + respectively, in which he effected very important discoveries; and + Charlevoix justly remarks that Cartier's Memoirs long served as a guide + to those who after him navigated the gulf and river of St. Lawrence. For + Cartier's commission, see _Hazard's State Papers_, Vol. I. p. 19. + +4. Roberval's voyage was made in 1542, and is reported by Jean Alfonse.-- + _Vide Hakluyt_, 1600, London, ed. 1810, Vol. III. p. 291. On an old map, + drawn about the middle of the sixteenth century, Roberval is represented + in a full-length portrait, clad in mail, with sword and spear, at the + head of a band of armed soldiers, penetrating into the wilds of Canada, + near the head-waters of the Saguenay. The name, "Monsr. de Roberual," is + inserted near his feet,--_Vide Monuments de la Géographie_, XIX., par + M. Jomard, Paris. + +5. For the narrative of the voyages of Frobisher, Gilbert, and Davis, _vide + Hakluyt_, Vol. III. Of the fleet of five vessels commanded by Sir + Humphrey Gilbert, in 1583, the Ralegh put back to England, on account of + sickness on board; the Golden Hinde returned safely to port; the + _Swallow_ was left at Newfoundland, to bring home the sick; the + _Delight_ was lost near Sable Island; and the _Squirrel_ went down on + its way to England, some days after leaving Sable Island. Thus two only + were lost, while a third was left. + + There must have been some error in regard to the voyage of Captain + Georges. There is no printed account of a voyage at that time by any one + of this name. There are two theories on which this statement may be + explained. There may have been a voyage by a Captain Georges, which, for + some unknown reason, was never reported; or, what is more likely, + Champlain may refer to the voyage of Captain George Weymouth, undertaken + in 1602 for the East Ind. Company, which was defeated by the icebergs + which he encountered, and the mutiny of his men. It was not uncommon to + omit part of a name at that period. Of Pont Gravé, the last name is + frequently omitted by Champlain and by Lescarbot. The report of + Weymouth's voyage was not printed till after Champlain wrote; and he + might easily have mistaken the date. + +6. The name of New France, _Novus Francisca_, appears on a map in Ptolemy + published at Basle in 1530. + +7. The controlling object of the numerous voyages to the north-east coast + of America had hitherto been to discover a shorter course to India. In + this respect, as Champlain states above, they had all proved + failures. He here intimates that the settlements of the French on this + coast were intended to facilitate this design. It is obvious that a + colonial establishment would offer great advantages as a base in + prosecuting searches for this desired passage to Cathay. + +8. For some account of this disastrous expedition, see _Memoir_, Vol. I. + +9. _Vide Memoir_, Vol. I. + +10. It will be observed that Champlain does not mention the expedition sent + out by Commander de Chastes, probably because its object was + exploration, and not actual settlement.--_Vide_ an account of De + Chastes in the _Memoir_, Vol. I. + +11. In Champlain's report of the voyage of 1603, after obtaining what + information he could from the natives relating to the St. Lawrence and + the chain of lakes, he says they informed him that the last lake in the + chain was salt, and he therefore believed it to be the South Sea. He + doubtless enlarged verbally before the king upon the feasibility of a + passage to China in this way. + +12. The commission here referred to was doubtless the one renewed to him in + 1608, after he had made his searches on the shores of New England and + Nova Scotia, and after the commission or charter of 1603 had been + revoked. + + Champlain is here stating the advantages of a settlement in the + interior, on the shores of the St. Lawrence, rather than on the + Atlantic coast. + +13. In this chapter, Champlain speaks of events stretching through several + years; but in the next he confines himself to the occurrences of 1603, + when De Monts obtained his charter. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +DESCRIPTION OF SABLE ISLAND; CAPE BRETON; LA HÈVE; PORT AU MOUTON; PORT +CAPE NEGRE; SABLE BAY AND CAPE; CORMORANT ISLAND; CAPE FOURCHU; LONG +ISLAND; BAY OF SAINT MARY; PORT SAINT MARGARET; AND OF ALL NOTEWORTHY +OBJECTS ALONG THIS COAST. + +Sieur de Monts, by virtue of his commission [14] having published in all +the ports and harbors of this kingdom the prohibition against the violation +of the monopoly of the fur-trade accorded him by his Majesty, gathered +together about one hundred and twenty artisans, whom he embarked in two +vessels: one of a hundred and twenty tons, commanded by Sieur de Pont +Gravé; [15] another, of a hundred and fifty tons, in which he embarked +himself, [16] together with several noblemen. + +We set out from Havre de Grâce April 7th, 1604, and Pont Gravé April 10th, +to rendezvous at Canseau, [17] twenty leagues from Cape Breton. [18] But +after we were in mid-ocean, Sieur de Monts changed his plan, and directed +his course towards Port Mouton, it being more southerly and also more +favorable for landing than Canseau. + +On May 1st, we sighted Sable Island, where we ran a risk of being lost in +consequence of the error of our pilots, who were deceived in their +calculation, which they made forty leagues ahead of where we were. + +This island is thirty leagues distant north and South from Cape Breton, and +in length is about fifteen leagues. It contains a small lake. The island is +very sandy, and there are no trees at all of considerable size, only copse +and herbage, which serve as pasturage for the bullocks and cows, which the +Portuguese carried there more than sixty years ago, and which were very +serviceable to the party of the Marquis de la Roche. The latter, during +their sojourn of several years there, captured a large number of very fine +black foxes, [19] whose skins they carefully preserved. There are many +sea-wolves [20] there, with the skins of which they clothed themselves +since they had exhausted their own stock of garments. By order of the +Parliamentary Court of Rouen, a vessel was sent there to recover them. [21] +The directors of the enterprise caught codfish near the island, the +neighborhood of which abounds in shoals. + +On the 8th of the same month, we sighted Cap de la Hève, [22] to the east +of which is a bay, containing several islands covered with fir-trees. On +the main land are oaks, elms, and birches. It joins the coast of La Cadie +at the latitude of 44° 5', and at 16° 15' of the deflection of the magnetic +needle, distant east-north-east eighty-five leagues from Cape Breton, of +which we shall speak hereafter. + +On the 12th of May, we entered another port, [23] five leagues +from Cap de la Hève, where we captured a vessel engaged +in the fur-trade in violation of the king's prohibition. The +master's name was Rossignol, whose name the port retained, +which is in latitude 44° 15'. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +PORT DE LA HÈVE. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. The place where vessels anchor. +_B_. A small river dry at low tide. +_C_. Places where the savages have their cabins.[Note: The letter C is + wanting, but the location of the cabins is obvious.] +_D_. Shoal at the entrance of the harbor. [Note: The letter D is also + wanting, but the figures sufficiently indicate the depth of the + water.] +_E_. A small island covered with wood. [Note: The letter E appears twice by + mistake.] +_F_. Cape de la Hève [Note: The letter F is likewise wanting. It has been + supposed to be represented by one of the E's on the small island, but + Cap de la Hève, to which it refers, was not on this island, but on the + main land. The F should have been, we think, on the west of the + harbor, where the elevation is indicated on the map. _Vide_ note 22.] + + * * * * * + +On the 13th of May, we arrived at a very fine harbor, where there are two +little streams, called Port au Mouton, [24] which is seven leagues distant +from that of Rossignol. The land is very stony, and covered with copse and +heath. There are a great many rabbits, and a quantity of game in +consequence of the ponds there. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +PORT DU ROSSIGNOL. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. A river extending twenty-five leagues inland. +_B_. The place where vessels anchor. +_C_. Place on the main land where the savages have their dwellings. +_D_. Roadstead where vessels anchor while waiting for the tide. +_E_. Place on the island where the savages have their cabins. +_F_. Channel dry at low tide. +_G_. Shore of the main land. The dotted places indicate the shoals. + +NOTE. It would seem as if in the title Rossynol, on the map, the two dots +on the _y_ instead of the _n_ were placed there by mistake. + + * * * * * + +As Soon as we had disembarked, each one commenced making huts after his +fashion, on a point at the entrance of the harbor near two fresh-water +ponds. Sieur de Monts at the Same time despatched a shallop, in which he +sent one of us, with some savages as guides as bearers of letters, along +the coast of La Cadie, to search for Pont Gravé, who had a portion of the +necessary supplies for our winter sojourn. The latter was found at the Bay +of All-Isles, [25] very anxious about us (for he knew nothing of the change +of plan); and the letters were handed to him. As soon as be had read them, +he returned to his ship at Canseau, where he seized some Basque vessels +[26] engaged in the fur-trade, notwithstanding the prohibition of his +Majesty, and sent their masters to Sieur de Monts, who meanwhile charged me +to reconnoitre the coast and the harbors suitable for the secure reception +of our vessel. + +With the purpose of carrying out his wishes, I set out from Port Mouton on +the 19th of May, in a barque of eight tons, accompanied by Sieur Ralleau, +his secretary, and ten men. Advancing along the coast, we entered a harbor +very convenient for vessels, at the end of which is a small river, +extending very far into the main land. This I called the Port of Cape +Negro, [27] from a rock whose distant view resembles a negro, which rises +out of the water near a cape passed by us the same day, four leagues off +and ten from Port Mouton. This cape is very dangerous, on account of the +rocks running out into the sea. The shores which I saw, up to that point, +are very low, and covered with such wood as that seen at the Cap de la +Hève; and the islands are all filled with game. Going farther on, we passed +the night at Sable Bay, [28] where vessels can anchor without any danger. + +The next day we went to Cape Sable, [29] also very dangerous, in +consequence of certain rocks and reefs extending almost a league into the +sea. It is two leagues from Sable Bay, where we had spent the night before. +Thence we went to Cormorant Island, [30] a league distant, so called from +the infinite number of cormorants found there, of whose eggs we collected a +cask full. From this island, we sailed westerly about six leagues, crossing +a bay, which makes up to the north two or three leagues. Then we fell in +with several islands [31] distant two or three leagues from the main land; +and, as well as I could judge, some of them were two leagues in extent, +others three, and others were still smaller. Most of them are very +dangerous for large vessels to approach, on account of the tides and the +rocks on a level with the water. These islands are filled with pines, firs, +birches, and aspens. A little farther out, there are four more. In one, we +saw so great a quantity of birds, called penguins, [32] that we killed them +easily with sticks. On another, we found the shore completely covered with +sea-wolves, [33] of which we captured as many as we wished. At the two +others there is such an abundance of birds of different sorts that one +could not imagine it, if he had not seen them. There are cormorants, three +kinds of duck, geese, _marmettes?_, bustards, sea-parrots, snipe, vultures, +and other birds of prey; gulls, sea-larks of two or three kinds; herons, +large sea-gulls, curlews, sea-magpies, divers, ospreys, _appoils?_, ravens, +cranes, and other sorts which I am not acquainted with, and which also make +their nests here. [34] We named these Sea-Wolf Islands. They are in +latitude 43° 30', distant from four to five leagues from the main land, or +Cape Sable. After spending pleasantly some time there in hunting (and not +without capturing much game), we set out and reached a cape, [35] which we +christened Port Fourchu from its being fork-shaped, distant from five to +six leagues from the Sea-Wolf Islands. This harbor is very convenient for +vessels at its entrance; but its remoter part is entirely dry at low tide, +except the channel of a little stream, completely bordered by meadows, +which make this spot very pleasant. There is good codfishing near the +harbor. Departing from there, we sailed north ten or twelve leagues without +finding any harbor for our vessels, but a number of very fine inlets or +shores, where the soil seems to be well adapted for cultivation. The woods +are exceedingly fine here, but there are few pines and firs. This coast is +clear, without islands, rocks, or shoals; so that, in our judgment, vessels +can securely go there. Being distant quarter of a league from the coast, we +went to an island called Long Island, [36] lying north-north-east and +south-south-west, which makes an opening into the great Baye Françoise, +[37] so named by Sieur de Monts. + +This island is six leagues long, and nearly a league broad in some places, +in others only quarter of a league. It is covered with an abundance of +wood, such as pines and birch. All the coast is bordered by very dangerous +rocks; and there is no place at all favorable for vessels, only little +inlets for shallops at the extremity of the island, and three or four small +rocky islands, where the savages capture many sea-wolves. There are strong +tides, especially at the little passage [38] of the island, which is very +dangerous for vessels running the risk of passing through it. + +From Long Island passage, we sailed north-east two leagues, when we found a +cove [39] where vessels can anchor in safety, and which is quarter of a +league or thereabouts in circuit. The bottom is all mire, and the +surrounding land is bordered by very high rocks. In this place there is a +very good silver mine, according to the report of the miner, Master Simon, +who accompanied me. Some leagues farther on there is a little stream called +river Boulay [40] where the tide rises half a league into the land, at the +mouth of which vessels of a hundred tons can easily ride at anchor. Quarter +of a league from here there is a good harbor for vessels, where we found an +iron mine, which our miner estimated would yield fifty per cent [41] +Advancing three leagues farther on to the northeast [42] we saw another +very good iron mine, near which is a river surrounded by beautiful and +attractive meadows. The neighboring soil is red as blood. Some leagues +farther on there is still another river, [43] dry at low tide, except in +its very small channel, and which extends near to Port Royal. At the +extremity of this bay is a channel, also dry at low tide [44] surrounding +which are a number of pastures and good pieces of land for cultivation, +where there are nevertheless great numbers of fine trees of all the kinds +previously mentioned. The distance from Long Island to the end of this bay +may be some six leagues. The entire coast of the mines is very high, +intersected by capes, which appear round, extending out a short distance. +On the other side of the bay, on the south-east, the land is low and good, +where there is a very good harbor, having a bank at its entrance over which +it is necessary to pass. On this bar there is a fathom and a half of water +at low tide; but after passing it you find three, with good bottom. Between +the two points of the harbor there is a pebbly islet, covered at full +tide. This place extends half a league inland. The tide falls here three +fathoms, and there are many shell-fish, such as muscles, cockles, and +sea-snails. The soil is as good as any that I have seen. I named this +harbor Saint Margaret. [45] This entire south-east coast is much lower than +that of the mines, which is only a league and a half from the coast of +Saint Margaret, being Separated by the breadth of the bay, [46] which is +three leagues at its entrance. I took the altitude at this place, and found +the latitude 45° 30', and a little more,[47] the deflection of the magnetic +needle being 17° 16'. + +After having explored as particularly as I could the coasts, ports, and +harbors, I returned, without advancing any farther, to Long Island passage, +whence I went back outside of all the islands in order to observe whether +there was any danger at all on the water side. But we found none whatever, +except there were some rocks about half a league from Sea-Wolf Islands, +which, however, can be easily avoided, since the sea breaks over them. +Continuing our voyage, we were overtaken by a violent wind, which obliged +us to run our barque ashore, where we were in danger of losing her, which +would have caused us extreme perplexity. The tempest having ceased, we +resumed the sea, and the next day reached Port Mouton, where Sieur de Monts +was awaiting us from day to day, thinking only of our long stay, [48] and +whether some accident had not befallen us. I made a report to him of our +voyage, and where our vessels might go in Safety. Meanwhile, I observed +very particularly that place which is in latitude 44°. + +The next day Sieur de Monts gave orders to weigh anchor and proceed to the +Bay of Saint Mary, [49] a place which we had found to be Suitable for our +vessel to remain in, until we should be able to find one more advantageous. +Coasting along, we passed near Cape Sable and the Sea-Wolf Islands, whither +Sieur de Monts decided to go in a shallop, and see some islands of which we +had made a report to him, as also of the countless number of birds found +there. Accordingly, he set out, accompanied by Sieur de Poutrincourt, and +several other noblemen, with the intention of going to Penguin Island, +where we had previously killed with sticks a large number of these +birds. Being somewhat distant from our ship, it was beyond our power to +reach it, and still less to reach our vessel; for the tide was so strong +that we were compelled to put in at a little island to pass the night, +where there was much game. I killed there some river-birds, which were very +acceptable to us, especially as we had taken only a few biscuits, expecting +to return the same day. The next day we reached Cape Fourchu, distant half +a league from there. Coasting along, we found our vessel in the Bay of +Saint Mary. Our company were very anxious about us for two days, fearing +lest some misfortune had befallen us; but, when they saw us all safe, they +were much rejoiced. + +Two or three days after our arrival, one of our priests, named Mesire Aubry +[50] from Paris, got lost so completely in the woods while going after his +sword, which he had forgotten, that he could not find the vessel. And he +was thus seventeen days without any thing to subsist upon except some sour +and bitter plants like the sorrel, and some small fruit of little substance +large as currants, which creep upon the ground. [51] Being at his wits' +end, without hope of ever seeing us again, weak and feeble, he found +himself on the shore of Baye Françoise, thus named by Sieur de Monts, near +Long Island, [52] where his strength gave out, when one of our shallops out +fishing discovered him. Not being able to shout to them, he made a sign +with a pole, on the end of which he had put his hat, that they should go +and get him. This they did at once, and brought him off. Sieur de Monts had +caused a search to be made not only by his own men, but also by the savages +of those parts, who scoured all the woods, but brought back no intelligence +of him. Believing him to be dead, they all saw him coming back in the +shallop to their great delight. A long time was needed to restore him to +his usual strength. + +ENDNOTES: + +14. _Vide Commission du Roy au Sieur de Monts, pour l'habitation és terres + de la Cadie, Canada, et autres endroits en la Nouvelle-France_, + Histoire de a Nouvelle-France, par Marc Lescarbot, Paris, 1612, Qvat. + Liv. p. 431. This charter may also be found in English in a _Collection + of Voyages and Travels compiled from the Library of the Earl of Oxford, + by Thomas Osborne_, London, 1745, Vol. II. pp. 796-798; also in + _Murdoch's History of Nova Scotia_, Halifax, 1865, Vol. I. pp. 21-24. + +15. The second officer, or pilot, was, according to Lescarbot, Captain + Morel, of Honfleur. + +16. This was under the direction of De Monts himself; and Captain Timothée, + of Havre de Grâce, was pilot, or the second officer. + +17. Lescarbot writes this name Campseau; Champlain's orthography is + Canceau; the English often write Canso, but more correctly Canseau. It + has been derived from _Cansoke_, an Indian word, meaning _facing the + frowning cliffs_. + +18. The Cape and Island of Cape Breton appear to have taken their name from + the fisherman of Brittany, who frequented that region as early as 1504 + --_Vide Champlain's Voyages_, Paris 1632, p. 9. + + Thévet sailed along the coast in 1556, and is quoted by Laverdière, as + follows: "In this land there is a province called Compestre de Berge, + extending towards the south-east: in the eastern part of the same is + the cape or promontory of Lorraine, called so by us; others have given + it the came of the Cape of the Bretons, since the Bretons, the + Bisayans, and Normans repair thither, and coast along on their way to + Newfoundland to fish for codfish." + + An inscription, "_tera que soy descuberta per pertonnes_," on an Old + Portuguese map of 1520, declares it to be a country discovered by the + Bretons. It is undoubtedly the oldest French name on any part of North + America. On Gastaldo's map in Mattiolo's Italian translation of + Ptolemy, 1548, the name of Breton is applied both to Nova Scotia and to + the Island of Cape Breton. + +19. Winthrop says that Mr. John Rose, who was cast away on Sable Island + about 1633, "saw about eight hundred cattle, small and great, all red, + and the largest he ever saw: and many foxes, wherof some perfect + black."--_Whinthrop's Hist. New Eng._, Boston, 1853, Vol. I. p. 193. + + Champlain doubtless obtained his information in regard to the cattle + left upon Sable Island by the Portuguese from the from the report of + Edward Haies on the voyage of Sir Humphrey Gilbert in 1583: + + "Sablon lieth to the seaward of Cape Briton about twenty-five leagues, + whither we were determined to goe vpon intelligence we had of a + Portugal (during our abode in S. Johns) who was himselfe present, when + the Portugals (aboue thirty yeeres past) did put in the same Island + both Neat and Swine to breede, which were since exceedingly multiplied. + This seemed vnto vs very happy tidings, to haue in an Island lying so + neere vnto the maine, which we intended to plant vpon. Such store of + cattell, whereby we might at all times conueniently be relieued of + victuall, and serued of store for breed."--_Edward Haies in Hakluyt's + Voyages_, London, ed. 1810. Vol. III. p. 197. + +20. "Loups marins," seals. + +21. "The forty poor wretches whom he left on Sable Island found on the + seashore some wrecks of vessels, out of which they built barracks to + shield themselves from the severity of the weather. They were the + remains of Spanish vessels, which had sailed to settle Cape Breton. + From these same ships had come some sheep and cattle, which had + multiplied on Sable Island; and this was for some time a resource for + these poor exiles. Fish was their next food; and, when their clothes + were worn out, they made new ones of seal-skin. At last, after a lapse + of seven years, the king, having heard of their adventure, obliged + Chedotel, the pilot, to go for them; but he found only twelve, the rest + having died of their hardships. His majesty desired to see those, who + returned in the same guise as found by Chedotel, covered with + seal-skin, with their hair and beard of a length and disorder that made + them resemble the pretended river-gods, and so disfigured as to inspire + horror. The king gave them fifty crowns apiece, and sent them home + released from all process of law."--_Shea's Charlevoix_, New York, + 1866, Vol. I. p. 244. See also _Sir William Alexander and American + Colonization_, Prince Society, 1873, p. 174; _Murdoch's Nova Scotia_, + Vol. I. p. 11; _Hakluyt_, Vol. II. pp. 679. 697. + +22. This cape still bears the same name, and is the western point of the + bay at the mouth of a river, likewise of the same name, in the county + of Lunenberg, Nova Scotia. It is an abrupt cliff, rising up one hundred + and fifty feet above the level of the sea. It could therefore be seen + at a great distance, and appears to have been the first land sighted by + them on the coast of La Cadie. A little north of Havre de Grâce, in + Normandy, the port from which De Monts and Champlain had sailed, is to + be seen the high, commanding, rocky bluff, known as _Cap de la Hève_. + The place which they first sighted, similar at least in some respects, + they evidently named after this bold and striking headland, which may, + perhaps, have been the last object which they saw on leaving the shores + of France. The word _Hève_ seems to have had a local meaning, as may be + inferred from the following excerpt: "A name, in Lower Normandy, for + cliffs hollowed out below, and where fishermen search for crabs."-- + _Littré_. The harbor delineated on Champlain's local map is now called + Palmerston Bay, and is at the mouth of Petit River. The latitude of + this harbor is about 44° 15'. De Laet's description is fuller than that + of Champlain or Lescarbot.--_Vide Novus Orbis_, 1633, p. 51. + +23. Liverpool, which for a long time bore the name of Port Rossignol; the + lake at the head of the river, about ten miles long and two or three + wide, the largest in Nova Scotia, still bears that appellation. The + latitude is 44° 2' 30". + +24. "Lequel ils appelèrent _Le Port du Mouton_, à l'occasion d'un mouton + qui s'estant nové revint à bord, et fut mangé de bonne guerre."-- + _Histoire de la Nouvelle-France_, par Marc Lescarbot, Paris, 1612, + Qvat. Liv. p. 449. It still bears the name of Port Mouton, and an + island in the bay is called Mouton Island. + +25. _Baye de Toutes-isles_. Lescarbot calls it "La Baye des Iles:" and + Charlevoix, "Baye de toutes les Isles." It was the bay, or rather the + waters, that stretch along the shores of Halifax County, between Owl's + Head and Liscomb River. + +26. The confiscated provisions taken in the vessels of the Basque + fur-traders and in that of Rossignol were, according to Lescarbot, + found very useful. De Monts had given timely notice of his monopoly; + and, whether it had reached them or not, they were doubtless wrong in + law. Although De Monts treated them with gentleness, nevertheless it is + not unlikely that a compromise would have been better policy than an + entire confiscation of their property, as these Basques afterwards, on + their return to France, gave him serious inconvenience. They were + instrumental mainly in wresting from him his charter of La Cadie. + +27. _Le Port du Cap Negré_. This port still bears the name of Negro + Harbor. It is situated at the mouth of the Clyde, the small river + referred to in the text. + +28. Near Cape Sable Island, at what is now known as Barrington Harbor. + +29. This is still called Cape Sable, and is the southern point of Sable + Island, or, more properly, the cluster of rock, and islets that + surround its southern extremity. + +30. _Isle aux Cormorans_. It is difficult to distinguish with certainty the + island here referred to, but it was probably Hope Island, as this lies + directly in their way in crossing the bay, six leagues wide, which is + now known as Townsend Bay. The bird here mentioned was the common + cormorant. _Graculus carbo_, of a glossy greenish-black color, back and + wings bronzy-gray; about three feet in length, and is common on our + northern Atlantic coast: eminently gregarious, particularly in the + breeding season, congregating in vast flocks. At the present time, it + breeds in great numbers in Labrador and Newfoundland, and in the winter + migrates as far south as the Middle States. They feed principally upon + fish, lay commonly two eggs, of a pale greenish color, overlaid with a + white chalky substance.--_Vide Cones's Key to Nor. Am. Birds_. Boston, + 1872. p. 302. + +31. A cluster of islands now known as the Tousquet or Tusket Islands. + Further on, Champlain says they named them _Isles aux loups marins_. + Sea-Wolf Islands. About five leagues south of them is an island now + called Seal Island. The four more which he saw a little further on were + probably in Townsend Bay. + +32. This is the Auk, family _Alcidae_, and must not be confounded with the + penguin of the southern hemisphere, although it is described by the + early navigators of the Northern Atlantic under that appellation. In + Anthony Parkhurst's letter to Hakluyt, 1578, he says: "These birds are + also called Penguins, and cannot flie, there is more meate in one of + these then in a goose: the Frenchmen that fish neere the grand baie, do + bring small store of flesh with them, but victuall themselves alwayes + with these birds."--_Hakluyt_, London, ed. 1810, Vol. III. p. 172. + Edward Haies, in his report of the voyage of Sir Humphrey Gilbert in + 1583, say's: "We had sight of an Island named Penguin, of a foule there + breeding in abundance, almost incredible, which cannot flie, their + wings not able to carry their body, being very large (not much lesse + then a goose), and exceeding fat: which the Frenchmen use to take + without difficulty upon that Island, and to barrell them up with salt." + _Idem_, p. 191. + + The Auk is confined to the northern hemisphere, where it represents the + penguins of the southern. Several species occur in the Northern + Atlantic in almost incredible numbers: they are all marine, feed on + fish and other animal substances exclusively, and lay from one to three + eggs on the bare rocks. Those seen by Champlain and other early + navigators were the Great Auk. _Alca impennis_, now nearly extinct. It + was formerly found on the coast of New England, as is proved not only + by the testimony of the primitive explorers, but by the remains found + in shell-heaps. The latest discovery was of one found dead near + St. Augustine, in Labrador, in 1870. A specimen of the Great Auk is + preserved in the Cambridge Museum.--_Vide Coues's Key to North Am. + Birds_, Boston, 1872. p. 338. + +33. The sea-wolf or _loup marin_ of Champlain is the marine mammiferous + quadruped of the family Phocidae, known as the seal. Sea-wolf was a + name applied to it by the early navigators.--_Vide Purchas's Pilgrims_, + London, 1625. Vol. IV. p. 1385. Those here mentioned were the common + seal, _Phoca vitulina_, which are still found on the coasts of Nova + Scotia, vulgarly known as the harbor seal. They are thinly distributed + as far south as Long Island Sound, but are found in great numbers in + the waters of Labrador and Newfoundland, where they are taken for the + oil obtained from them, and for the skins, which are used for various + purposes in the arts. + +34. The names given to these birds were such, doubtless, as were known to + belong to birds similar in color, size, and figure in Europe. Some of + them were probably misapplied. The name alone is not sufficient for + identification. + +35. This cape, near the entrance to Yarmouth, still bears the same name, + from _fourchu_, forked. On a map of 1755, it is called Forked Cape, and + near it is Fork Ledge and Forked Harbor.--_Memorials of English and + French Commissaries_, London, 1755. + +36. It still retains the name given to it by Champlain. It forms a part of + the western limit of St. Mary's Bay, and a line drawn from it to the + St. Croix, cutting the Grand Manan, would mark the entrance of the Bay + of Fundy. + +37. The Bay of Fundy was thus first named "Baye Françoise" by De Monts, and + continued to be so called, as will appear by reference to the early + maps, as that of De Laet, 1633; Charlevoix, 1744; Rouge, 1778. It first + appears distinctly on the carte of Diego Homem of 1558, but without + name. On Cabot's Mappe-Monde, in "Monuments de la Géographie," we find + _rio fondo_, which may represent the Bay of Fundy, and may have + suggested the name adopted by the English, which it still retains. Sir + William Alexander's map, 1624, has Argal's Bay; Moll's map, 1712, has + Fundi Bay; that of the English and French Commissaries, 1755, has Bay + of Fundy, or Argal. + +38. This strait, known by the name Petit Passage, separates Long Island + from Digby Neck. + +39. A place called Little River, on Digby Neck. + +40. Now known as Sandy Cove. + +41. Lescarbot says of this iron mine, and of the silver mine above, that + they were proved not to be abundant. + +42. This was probably near Rossway. + +43. This was clearly Smith Creek or Smelt River, which rises near Annapolis + Basin, or the Port Royal Basin of the French. + +44. He here doubtless refers to North Creek, at the north-eastern extremity + of St. Mary's Bay. + +45. Now Weymouth Harbor, on the south-eastern shore of St. Mary's Bay, at + the mouth of Sissibou River, and directly opposite Sandy Cove, near the + iron mine mentioned above. + +46. The distance across the bay at this point, as here stated, is nearly + accurate. + +47. This is clearly a mistake; the true latitude at the Petit Passage is + 44° 23'. It may here be remarked that Champlain's latitudes are very + inaccurate, often varying more than half a degree; doubtless owing to + the imperfection of the instruments which were employed in taking them. + +48. They had been occupied in this exploration about three weeks, Lescarbot + says a month, but this is an overstatement. By a careful examination of + the text, it will appear that they departed from Port Mouton on the + 19th of May, and that several days after their return, not less than + nine, they were again in St. Mary's Bay, on the 16th of June. They had + been absent, therefore, about twenty-one days. The latitude of Port + Mouton, stated a little below to be 44°, is in fact 43° 57'. + +49. This bay, still retaining its ancient appellation, was so named by + Champlain on his first visit. "Ceste baye fut nommée la baye Saincte + Marie."--_Champlain's Voyages_, 1632, Quebec ed., Vol. V. p. 716. + +50. Nicholas Aubry, a young Parisian of good family, "vn certain homme + d'Église," as Lescarbot says, probably not long in holy orders, had + undertaken this voyage with De Monts to gratify his desire to see the + New World, though quite against the wishes of his friends, who had sent + in vain to Honfleur to prevent his embarkation. After the search made + by De Monts, with the sounding of trumpets and the discharge of cannon, + they left St. Mary's Bay, having given up all expectation of his + recovery. Some two weeks afterward, an expedition was Sent out to + St. Mary's Bay, conducted by De Champdoré, an experienced pilot, with a + mineralogist, to search for silver and iron ore. While Some of the + party were on a fishing excursion, they rescued him, as stated in the + text. The safe return of the young and too venturesome ecclesiastic + gave great relief to De Monts, as Lescarbot says a Protestant was + charged to have killed him, because they quarrelled sometimes about + their religion.--_Vide Histoire de Nouvelle-France_, par Mare + Lescarbot, Paris, 1612, Qvat. Liv. p. 453. + +51. The partridge-berry, Mitchella, a trailing evergreen, bearing scarlet + berries, edible but nearly tasteless, which remain through the winter. + It is peculiar to America, and this is probably the first time it was + noticed by any historical writer. + +52. He was on the western side of Digby Neck, at its southern extremity, + near the Petit Passage on the shore of the Bay of Fundy. + + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +DESCRIPTION OF PORT ROYAL AND THE PECULIARITIES OF THE SAME.--ISLE HAUTE.-- +PORT OF MINES.--BAYE FRANÇOISE.-THE RIVER ST. JOHN, AND WHAT WE OBSERVED +BETWEEN THE PORT OF MINES AND THE SAME.--THE ISLAND CALLED BY THE SAVAGES +MANTHANE.--THE RIVER OF THE ETECHEMINS, AND SEVERAL FINE ISLANDS THERE.-- +ST. CROIX ISLAND, AND OTHER NOTEWORTHY OBJECTS ON THIS COAST. + +Some days after, Sieur de Monts decided to go and examine the coasts of +Baye Françoise. For this purpose, he set out from the vessel on the 16th of +May,[53] and we went through the strait of Long Island.[54] Not having +found in St. Mary's Bay any place in which to fortify ourselves except at +the cost of much time, we accordingly resolved to see whether there might +not be a more favorable one in the other bay. Heading north-east six +leagues, there is a cove where vessels can anchor in four, five, six, and +seven fathoms of water. The bottom is sandy. This place is only a kind of +roadstead.[55] Continuing two leagues farther on in the same direction, we +entered one of the finest harbors I had seen along all these coasts, in +which two thousand vessels might lie in security. The entrance is eight +hundred paces broad; then you enter a harbor two leagues long and one +broad, which I have named Port Royal.[56] Three rivers empty into it, one +of which is very large, extending eastward, and called Rivière de +l'Équille,[57] from a little fish of the size of an _esplan?_, which is +caught there in large numbers, as is also the herring, and several other +kinds of fish found in abundance in their season. This river is nearly a +quarter of a league broad at its entrance, where there is an island [58] +perhaps half a league in circuit, and covered with wood like all the rest +of the country, as pines, firs, spruces, birches, aspens, and some oaks, +although the latter are found in small numbers in comparison with the other +kinds. There are two entrances to the above river, one on the north, the +other on the south side of the island. That on the north is the better, and +vessels can there anchor under shelter of the island in five, six, seven, +eight, and nine fathoms. But it is necessary to be on one's guard against +some shallows near the island on the one side, and the main land on the +other, very dangerous, if one does not know the channel. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S DESCRIPTION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +PORT AU MOUTON. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. Place where vessels lie. +_B_. Place where we made our camp. +_C_. A pond. +_D_. An island at the entrance to the harbor, covered with wood. +_E_. A river very shallow. +_F_. A pond. +_G_. A very large brook coming from the pond F. +_H_. Six little islands in the harbor. +_L_. Country, containing only copse and heath of very small size. +_M_. Sea-shore. + +NOTE.--The wanting letter L should probably be placed where the trees are +represented as very small, between the letters B and the island F. + + * * * * * + +We ascended the river some fourteen or fifteen leagues, where the tide +rises, and it is not navigable much farther. It has there a breadth of +sixty paces, and about a fathom and a half of water. The country bordering +the river is filled with numerous oaks, ashes, and other trees. Between the +mouth of the river and the point to which we ascended there are many +meadows, which are flooded at the spring tides, many little streams +traversing them from one side to the other, through which shallops and +boats can go at full tide. This place was the most favorable and agreeable +for a settlement that we had seen. There is another island [59] within the +port, distant nearly two leagues from the former. At this point is another +little stream, extending a considerable distance inland, which we named +Rivière St. Antoine. [60] Its mouth is distant from the end of the Bay of +St. Mary some four leagues through the woods. The remaining river is only a +small stream filled with rocks, which cannot be ascended at all on account +of the small amount of water, and which has been named Rocky Brook. [61] +This place is in latitude [62] 45°; and 17° 8' of the deflection of the +magnetic needle. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S DESCRIPTION OF THE MAP + +PORT ROYAL + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. Our habitation. [Note: On the present site of Lower Granville.] + +_B_. Garden of Sieur de Champlain. +_C_. Road through the woods that Sieur de Poutrincourt had made. +_D_. Island at the mouth of Équille River. +_E_. Entrance to Port Royal, +_F_. Shoals, dry at low tide. +_G_. River St. Antoine. [Note: The stream west of river St. Antoine is the + Jogging River.] +_H_. Place under cultivation for sowing wheat. [Note: The site of the + present town of Annapolis.] +_I_. Mill that Sieur de Poutrincourt had made. +_L_. Meadows overflowed at highest tides. +_M_. Équille River. +_N_. Seacoast of Port Royal. +_O_. Ranges of mountains. +_P_. Island near the river St. Antoine. +_Q_. Rocky Brook. [Footnote: Now called Deep Brook.] +_R_. Another brook. [Note: Morris River.] +_S_. Mill River. [Note: Allen River.] +_T_. Small lake. +_V_. Place where the savages catch herring in the season. +_X_. Trout brook. [Note: Trout Brook is now called Shäfer's Brook, and the + first on the west is Thorne's, and the second Scofield's Brook.] +_Y_. A lane that Sieur de Champlain had made. + + * * * * * + +After having explored this harbor, we set out to advance farther on in Baye +Françoise, and see whether we could not find the copper mine, [63] which +had been discovered the year before. Heading north-east, and sailing eight +or ten leagues along the coast of Port Royal,[64] we crossed a part of the +bay Some five or six leagues in extent, when we arrived at a place which we +called the Cape of Two Bays;[65] and we passed by an island a league +distant therefrom, a league also in circuit, rising up forty or forty-five +fathoms. [66] It is wholly surrounded by great rocks, except in one place +which is sloping, at the foot of which slope there is a pond of salt water, +coming from under a pebbly point, having the form of a spur. The surface of +the island is flat, covered with trees, and containing a fine spring of +water. In this place is a copper mine. Thence we proceeded to a harbor a +league and a half distant, where we supposed the copper mine was, which a +certain Prevert of St. Malo had discovered by aid of the savages of the +country. This port is in latitude 45° 40', and is dry at low tide. [67] In +order to enter it, it is necessary to place beacons, and mark out a +sand-bank at the entrance, which borders a channel that extends along the +main land. Then you enter a bay nearly a league in length, and half a +league in breadth. In some places, the bottom is oozy and sandy, where +vessels may get aground. The sea falls and rises there to the extent of +four or five fathoms. We landed to see whether we could find the mines +which Prevert had reported to us. Having gone about a quarter of a league +along certain mountains, we found none, nor did we recognize any +resemblance to the description of the harbor he had given us. Accordingly, +he had not himself been there, but probably two or three of his men had +been there, guided by some savages, partly by land and partly by little +streams, while he awaited them in his shallop at the mouth of a little +river in the Bay of St. Lawrence.[68] These men, upon their return, +brought him several small pieces of copper, which he showed us when he +returned from his voyage. Nevertheless, we found in this harbor two mines +of what seemed to be copper according to the report of our miner, who +considered it very good, although it was not native copper. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S DESCRIPTION OF THE MAP. + +PORT DES MINES. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. A place where vessels are liable to run aground. +_B_. A Small river. +_C_. A tongue of land composed of Sand. +_D_. A point composed of large pebbles, which is like a mole. +_E_. Location of a copper mine, which is covered by the tide twice a day. +_F_. An island to the rear of the Cape of Mines. [Note: Now called + Spencer's Island. Champlain probably obtained his knowledge of this + island at a subsequent visit. There is a creek extending from near + Spencer's Island between the rocky elevations to Advocate's Harbor, or + nearly so, which Champlain does not appear to have seen, or at least + he does not represent it on his map. This point, thus made an island + by the creek, has an elevation of five hundred feet, at the base of + which was the copper mine which they discovered.--_Vide_ note 67.] +_G_. Roadstead where vessels anchor while waiting for the tide. +_H_. Isle Haute, which is a league and a half from Port of Mines. +_I_. Channel. +_L_. Little River. +_M_. Range of mountains along the coast of the Cape of Mines. + + * * * * * + +The head [69] of the Baye Françoise, which we crossed, is fifteen leagues +inland. All the land which we have seen in coasting along from the little +passage of Long Island is rocky, and there is no place except Port Royal +where vessels can lie in Safety. The land is covered with pines and +birches, and, in my opinion, is not very good. + +On the 20th of May,[70] we set out from the Port of Mines to seek a place +adapted for a permanent stay, in order to lose no time, purposing +afterwards to return, and see if we could discover the mine of pure copper +which Prevert's men had found by aid of the savages. We sailed west two +leagues as far as the cape of the two bays, then north five or six leagues; +and we crossed the other bay,[71] where we thought the copper mine was, of +which we have already spoken: inasmuch as there are there two rivers, [72] +the one coming from the direction of Cape Breton, and the other from Gaspé +or Tregatté, near the great river St. Lawrence. Sailing west some six +leagues, we arrived at a little river,[73] at the mouth of which is rather +a low cape, extending out into the sea; and a short distance inland there +is a mountain,[74] having the shape of a Cardinal's hat. In this place we +found an iron mine. There is anchorage here only for shallops. Four leagues +west south-west is a rocky point [75] extending out a short distance into +the water, where there are strong tides which are very dangerous. Near the +point we saw a cove about half a league in extent, in which we found +another iron mine, also very good. Four leagues farther on is a fine bay +running up into the main land;[76] at the extremity of which there are +three islands and a rock; two of which are a league from the cape towards +the west, and the other is at the mouth of the largest and deepest river we +had yet seen, which we named the river St. John, because it was on this +saint's day that we arrived there.[77] By the savages it is called +Ouygoudy. This river is dangerous, if one does not observe carefully +certain points and rocks on the two sides. It is narrow at its entrance, +and then becomes broader. A certain point being passed, it becomes narrower +again, and forms a kind of fall between two large cliffs, where the water +runs so rapidly that a piece of wood thrown in is drawn under and not seen +again. But by waiting till high tide you can pass this fall very easily. +[78] Then it expands again to the extent of about a league in some places, +where there are three islands. We did not explore it farther up.[79] But +Ralleau, secretary of Sieur de Monts, went there some time after to see a +savage named Secondon, chief of this river, who reported that it was +beautiful, large, and extensive, with many meadows and fine trees, as oaks, +beeches, walnut-trees, and also wild grapevines. The inhabitants of the +country go by this river to Tadoussac, on the great river St. Lawrence, +making but a short portage on the journey. From the river St. John to +Tadoussac is sixty-five leagues.[80] At its mouth, which is in latitude +45° 40', there is an iron mine.[81] + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S DESCRIPTION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +RIVIÈRE ST. JEHAN. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. Three islands above the falls. [Note: The islands are not close + together as here represented. One is very near the main land on one + shore, and two on the other.] +_B_. Mountains rising up from the main land, two leagues south of the + river. +_C_. The fall in the river. +_D_. Shoals where vessels, when the tide is out, are liable to run aground. +_E_. Cabin where the savages fortify themselves. +_F_. A pebbly point where there is a cross. +_G_. An island at the entrance of the river. [Note: Partridge Island.] +_H_. A Small brook coming from a little pond. [Note: Mill Pond.] +_I_. Arm of the sea dry at low tide. [Note: Marsh Creek, very shallow but + not entirely dry at low tide.] +_L_. Two little rocky islets. [Note: These islets are not now represented + on the charts, and are probably rocks near the shore from which the + soil may have been washed away since 1604.] +_M_. A small pond. +_N_. Two brooks. +_O_. Very dangerous shoals along the coast, which are dry at low tide. +_P_. Way by which the savages carry their canoes in passing the falls. +_Q_. Place for anchoring where the river runs with full current. + + * * * * * + +From the river St. John we went to four islands, on one of which we landed, +and found great numbers of birds called magpies,[82] of which we captured +many small ones, which are as good as pigeons. Sieur de Poutrincourt came +near getting lost here, but he came back to our barque at last, when we had +already gone to search for him about the island, which is three leagues +distant from the main land. Farther west are other islands; among them one +six leagues in length, called by the savages Manthane,[83] south of which +there are among the islands several good harbors for vessels. From the +Magpie Islands we proceeded to a river on the main land called the river of +the Etechemins,[84] a tribe of savages so called in their country. We +passed by so many islands that we could not ascertain their number, which +were very fine. Some were two leagues in extent, others three, others more +or less. All of these islands are in a bay,[85] having, in my estimation, a +circuit of more than fifteen leagues. There are many good places capable of +containing any number of vessels, and abounding in fish in the season, such +as codfish, salmon, bass, herring, halibut, and other kinds in great +numbers. Sailing west-north-west three leagues through the islands, we +entered a river almost half a league in breadth at its mouth, sailing up +which a league or two we found two islands: one very small near the western +bank; and the other in the middle, having a circumference of perhaps eight +or nine hundred paces, with rocky sides three or four fathoms high all +around, except in one small place, where there is a sandy point and clayey +earth adapted for making brick and other useful articles. There is another +place affording a shelter for vessels from eighty to a hundred tons, but it +is dry at low tide. The island is covered with firs, birches, maples, and +oaks. It is by nature very well situated, except in one place, where for +about forty paces it is lower than elsewhere: this, however, is easily +fortified, the banks of the main land being distant on both sides some nine +hundred to a thousand paces. Vessels could pass up the river only at the +mercy of the cannon on this island, and we deemed the location the most +advantageous, not only on account of its situation and good foil, but also +on account of the intercourse which we proposed with the savages of these +coasts and of the interior, as we should be in the midst of them. We hoped +to pacify them in the course of time, and put an end to the wars which they +carry on with one another, so as to derive service from them in future, and +convert them to the Christian faith. This place was named by Sieur de Monts +the Island of St. Croix. [86] Farther on, there is a great bay, in which +are two islands, one high and the other flat; also three rivers, two of +moderate size, one extending towards the east, the other towards the north, +and the third of large size, towards the west. The latter is that of the +Etechemins, of which we spoke before. Two leagues up this there is a +waterfall, around which the savages carry their canoes some five hundred +paces by land, and then re-enter the river. Passing afterwards from the +river a short distance overland, one reaches the rivers Norumbegue and +St. John. But the falls are impassable for vessels, as there are only rocks +and but four or five feet of water.[87] In May and June, so great a number +of herring and bass are caught there that vessels could be loaded with +them. The soil is of the finest sort, and there are fifteen or twenty acres +of cleared land, where Sieur de Monts had some wheat sown, which flourished +finely. The savages come here sometimes five or six weeks during the +fishing Season. All the rest of the country consists of very dense forests. +If the land were cleared up, grain would flourish excellently. This place +is in latitude 45° 20',[88] and 17° 32' of the deflection of the magnetic +needle. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S DESCRIPTION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +ISLE DE SAINTE CROIX. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. A plan of our habitation. +_B_. Gardens. +_C_. Little islet serving as a platform for cannon. [Note: This refers to + the southern end of the island, which was probably separated at high + tide, where a cannon may be seen in position.] +_D_. Platform where cannon were placed. +_E_. The Cemetery. +_F_. The Chapel. +_G_. Rocky shoals about the Island Sainte Croix. +_H_. A little islet. [Note: Little De Monts's Island, Sometimes called + Little Dochet's Island.] +_I_. Place where Sieur de Monts had a water-mill commenced. +_L_. Place where we made our coal. +_M_. Gardens on the western shore. +_N_. Other gardens on the eastern shore. +_O_. Very large and high mountain on the main land. [Note: This "mountain" + is now called Chamcook Hill. Its height is 627 feet. At the northern + end of the island on the right there is an extensive sandy shoal, dry + at low tide, of a triangular shape as formerly, and has apparently + changed very little since the days of Champlain.] +_P_. River of the Etechemins flowing about the Island of St. Croix. + + * * * * * + +ENDNOTES: + +53. For May read June. It could not have been in May, since Champlain Set + out from Port Mouton on his exploring expedition on the 19th of May, + which must have been a month previous to this. + +54. What is now called the Petit Passage, the narrow strait between Long + Island and Digby Neck. + +55. Gulliver's Hole, about two leagues south-west of Digby Strait. + +56. Champlain here names the whole harbor or basin Port Royal, and not the + place of habitation afterward so called. The first settlement was on + the north side of the bay in the present hamlet of Lower Granville, not + as often alleged at Annapolis.--_Vide_ Champlain's engraving or map of + Port Royal. + +57. "Équille." A name, on the coasts between Caen and Havre, of the fish + called lançon at Granville and St. Malo, a kind of malacopterygious + fish living on sandy shores and hiding in the sand at low tide.-- + _Littré_. A species of sand eel. This stream is now known as the + Annapolis River. Lescarbot calls it Rivière du Dauphin. + +58. This island is situated at the point where the Annapolis River flows + into the bay, or about nine miles from Digby, straight. Champlain on + his map gives it no name, but Lescarbot calls it Biencourville. It is + now called Goat Island. + +59. Lescarbot calls it Claudiane. It is now known as Bear Island. It was + Sometimes called Ile d'Hébert, and likewise Imbert Island. Laverdière + suggests that the present name is derived from the French pronunciation + of the last syllable of Imbert. + +60. At present known as Bear River; Lescarbot has it Hebert, and + Charlevoix, Imbert. + +61. On modern maps called Moose River, and sometimes Deep Brook. It is a + few miles east of Bear River. + +62. The latitude is here overstated: it should be 44° 39' 30". + +63. On the preceding year, M. Prevert of St. Malo had made a glowing report + ostensively based on his own observations and information which he had + obtained from the Indians, in regard to certain mines alleged to exist + on the coast directly South of Northumberland Strait, and about the + head of the Bay of Fundy. It was this report of Prevert that induced + the present search. + +64. Along the Bay of Fundy nearly parallel to the basin of Port Royal would + better express the author's meaning. + +65. Cape Chignecto, the point where the Bay of Fundy is bifurcated; the + northern arm forming Chignecto Bay, and the southern, the Bay of Mines + or Minas Basin. + +66. Isle Haute, or high island.--_Vide Charlevoix's Map_. On Some maps this + name has been strangely perverted into Isle Holt, Isle Har, &c. Its + height is 320 feet. + +67. This was Advocate's Harbor. Its distance from Cape Chignecto is greater + than that stated in the text. Further on, Champlain calls it two + leagues, which is nearly correct. Its latitude is about 45° 20'. By + comparing the Admiralty charts and Champlain's map of this harbor, it + will be seen that important changes have taken place since 1604. The + tongue of land extending in a south-easterly direction, covered with + trees and shrubbery, which Champlain calls a sand-bank, has entirely + disappeared. The ordinary tides rise here from thirty-three to + thirty-nine feet, and on a sandy shore could hardly fail to produce + important changes. + +68. According to the Abbé Laverdière, the lower part of the Gulf was + sometimes called the Bay of St. Lawrence. + +69. They had just crossed the Bay of Mines. From the place where they + crossed it to its head it is not far from fifteen leagues, and it is + about the same distance to Port Royal, from which he may here estimate + the distance inland. + +70. Read June.--_Vide antea_, note 53. + +71. Chignecto Bay. Charlevoix has Chignitou _ou Beau Bassin_. On De Laet's + Map of 1633, on Jacob von Meur's of 1673, and Homenn's of 1729, we have + B. de Gennes. The Cape of Two Bays was Cape Chignecto. + +72. The rivers are the Cumberland Basin with its tributaries coming from + the east, and the Petitcoudiac (_petit_ and _coude_, little elbow, from + the angle formed by the river at Moncton, called the Bend), which flows + into Shepody Bay coming from the north or the direction of Gaspé. + Champlain mentions all these particulars, probably as answering to the + description given to them by M. Prevert of the place where copper mines + could be found. + +73. Quaco River, at the mouth of which the water is shallow: the low cape + extending out into the sea is that on which Quaco Light now stands, + which reaches out quarter of a mile, and is comparatively low. The + shore from Goose River, near where they made the coast, is very high, + measuring at different points 783, 735, 650, 400, 300, 500, and 380 + feet, while the "low cape" is only 250 feet, and near it on the west is + an elevation of 400 feet. It would be properly represented as "rather a + low cape" in contradistinction to the neighboring coast. Iron and + manganese are found here, and the latter has been mined to some extent, + but is now discontinued, as the expense is too great for the present + times. + +74. This mountain is an elevation, eight or ten miles inland from Quaco, + which may be seen by vessels coasting along from St. Martin's Head to + St. John: it is indicated on the charts as Mt. Theobald, and bears a + striking resemblance, as Champlain suggests, to the _chapeau de + Cardinal_. + +75. McCoy's Head, four leagues west of Quaco: the "cove" may be that on the + east into which Gardner's Creek flows, or that on the west at the mouth + of Emmerson's Creek. + +76. The Bay of St. John, which is four leagues south-west of McCoy's + Head. The islands mentioned are Partridge Island at the mouth of the + harbor, and two smaller ones farther west, one Meogenes, and the other + Shag rock or some unimportant islet in its vicinity. The rock mentioned + by Champlain is that on which Spit Beacon Light now stands. + +77. The festival of St. John the Baptist occurs on the 24th of June; and, + arriving on that day, they gave the name of St. John to the river, + which has been appropriately given also to the city at its mouth, now + the metropolis of the province of New Brunswick. + +78. Champlain was under a missapprehension about passing the fall at the + mouth of the St. John at high tide. It can in fact only be passed at + about half tide. The waters of the river at low tide are about twelve + feet higher than the waters of the sea. At high tide, the waters of the + sea are about five feet higher than the waters of the river. + Consequently, at low tide there is a fall outward, and at high tide + there is a fall inward, at neither of which times can the fall be + passed. The only time for passing the fall is when the waters of the + sea are on a level with the waters of the river. This occurs twice + every tide, at the level point at the flood and likewise at the ebb. + The period for passing lasts about fifteen or twenty minutes, and of + course occurs four times a day. Vessels assemble in considerable + numbers above and below to embrace the opportunity of passing at the + favoring moment. There are periods, however, when the river is swollen + by rains and melting snow, at which the tides do not rise as high as + the river, and consequently there is a constant fall outward, and + vessels cannot pass until the high water subsides. + +79. They ascended the river only a short distance into the large bay just + above the falls, near which are the three islands mentioned in the + text. + +80. The distance from the mouth of the river St. John to Tadoussac in a + direct line is about sixty-five leagues. But by the winding course of + the St. John it would be very much greater. + +81. Champlain's latitude is inexact. St. John's Harbor is 45° 16'. + +82. _Margos_, magpies. The four islands which Champlain named the Magpies + are now called the Wolves, and are near the mouth of Passamaquoddy + Bay. Charlevoix has _Oiseaux_, the Birds. + +83. Manan. Known as the Grand Manan in contradistinction to the Petit + Manan, a small island still further west. It is about fourteen or + fifteen miles long, and about six in its greatest width. On the south + and eastern side are Long Island, Great Duck, Ross, Cheyne, and White + Head Islands, among which good harborage may be found. The name, as + appears in the text, is of Indian origin. It is Sometimes Spelled + Menarse, but that in the text prevails. + +84. The St. Croix River, sometimes called the Scoudic. + +85. Passsmaquoddy Bay. On Gastaldo's map of 1550 called Angoulesme. On + Rouge's "Atlas Ameriquain," 1778, it is written Passamacadie. + +86. The Holy Cross, _Saincte Croix_, This name was suggested by the + circumstance that, a few miles above the island, two streams flow into + the main channel of the river at the same place, one from the east and + the other from the west, while a bay makes up between them, presenting + the appearance of a cross. + + "Et d'autant qu'à deux lieues au dessus il y a des ruisseaux qui + viennent comme en croix de décharger dans ce large bras de mer, cette + île de la retraite des François fut appelée SAINCTE CROIX."--_His. + Nouvelle France_ par Lescarbot, Paris. 1612, Qvat Liv. pp. 461, 462. + + It is now called De Monts's Island. It has been called Dochet's Island + and Neutral Island, but there is great appropriateness in calling it + after its first occupant and proprietor, and in honor of him it has + been so named with suitable ceremonies.--_Vide Godfrey's Centennial + Discourse_, Bangor, 1870, p. 20. The United States maintain a light + upon the island, which is seventy-one feet above the level of the sea, + and is visible twelve nautical miles. The island itself is moderately + high, and in the widest part is one hundred and eighty paces or about + five hundred and forty feet. The area is probably not more than six or + seven acres, although it has been estimated at twice that. It may have + been diminished in some slight degree since the time of Champlain by + the action of the waves, but probably very little. On the southern + extremity of the island where De Monts placed his cannon, about + twenty-five years ago a workman in excavating threw out five small + cannon-balls, one of which was obtained by Peter E. Vose, Esq., of + Dennysville, Me., who then resided near the island, and was conversant + with all the circumstances of the discovery. They were about a foot and + a half below the surface, and the workman was excavating for another + purpose, and knew nothing of the history of the island. At our + solicitation, the ball belonging to Mr. Vose has recently been + presented to the New England Historic Genealogical Society, of which he + is a member. It is iron, perfectly round, two and a quarter inches in + diameter, and weighs 22 oz. avoirdupois. There can be no reasonable + doubt that these balls are relics of the little French colony of 1604, + and probably the only memorial of the kind now in existence. + +87. The description in the text of the environs of the Island of St. Croix + is entirely accurate. Some distance above, and in view from the island, + is the fork, or Divide, as it is called. Here is a meeting of the + waters of Warwig Creek from the east, Oak Bay from the north, and the + river of the Etechemins, now called the St. Croix, from the west. These + are the three rivers mentioned by Champlain, Oak Bay being considered + as one of them, in which may be seen the two islands mentioned in the + text, one high and the other low. A little above Calais is the + waterfall, around which the Indians carried their bark canoes, when on + their journey up the river through the Scoudic lakes, from which by + land they reached the river St. John on the east, or, on the west, + passing through the Mettawamkeag, they reached the Norumbegue, or + Penobscot River. + +88. The latitude of the Island of St. Croix is 45° 7' 43". + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +SIEUR DE MONTS, FINDING NO OTHER PLACE BETTER ADAPTED FOR A PERMANENT +SETTLEMENT THAN THE ISLAND OF ST. CROIX, FORTIFIES IT AND BUILDS +DWELLINGS.--RETURN OF THE VESSELS TO FRANCE, AND OF RALLEAU, SECRETARY OF +SIEUR DE MONTS, FOR THE SAKE OF ARRANGING SOME BUSINESS AFFAIRS. + + +Not finding any more suitable place than this island, we commenced making a +barricade on a little islet a short distance from the main island, which +served as a station for placing our cannon. All worked so energetically +that in a little while it was put in a state of defence, although the +mosquitoes (which are little flies) annoyed us excessively in our work. +For there were several of our men whose faces were so swollen by their +bites that they could scarcely see. The barricade being finished, Sieur de +Monts sent his barque to notify the rest of our party, who were with our +vessel in the bay of St. Mary, to come to St. Croix. This was promptly +done, and while awaiting them we spent our time very pleasantly. + +Some days after, our vessels having arrived and anchored, all disembarked. +Then, without losing time, Sieur de Monts proceeded to employ the workmen +in building houses for our abode, and allowed me to determine the +arrangement of our settlement. After Sieur de Monts had determined the +place for the storehouse, which is nine fathoms long, three wide, and +twelve feet high, he adopted the plan for his own house, which he had +promptly built by good workmen, and then assigned to each one his location. +Straightway, the men began to gather together by fives and sixes, each +according to his desire. Then all set to work to clear up the island, to go +to the woods, to make the frame work, to carry earth and other things +necessary for the buildings. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S DESCRIPTION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +HABITATION DE L'ISLE STE. CROIX. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. Dwelling of Sieur de Monts. +_B_. Public building where we spent our time when it rained. +_C_. The storehouse. +_D_. Dwelling of the guard. +_E_. The blacksmith shop. +_F_. Dwelling of the carpenters. +_G_. The well. +_H_. The oven where the bread was made. +_I_. Kitchen. +_L_. Gardens. +_M_. Other gardens. +_N_. Place in the centre where a tree stands. +_O_. Palisade. +_P_. Dwellings of the Sieurs d'Orville, Champlain, and Champdoré. +_Q_. Dwelling of Sieur Boulay, and other artisans. +_R_. Dwelling where the Sieurs de Genestou, Sourin, and other artisans + lived. +_T_. Dwelling of the Sieurs de Beaumont, la Motte Bourioli, and Fougeray. +_V_. Dwelling of our curate. +_X_. Other gardens. +_Y_. The river surrounding the island. + + * * * * * + +While we were building our houses, Sieur de Monts despatched Captain +Fouques in the vessel of Rossignol, [89] to find Pont Gravé at Canseau, in +order to obtain for our settlement what supplies remained. + +Some time after he had set out, there arrived a small barque of eight tons, +in which was Du Glas of Honfleur, pilot of Pont Grave's vessel, bringing +the Basque ship-masters, who had been captured by the above Pont Gravé [90] +while engaged in the fur-trade, as we have stated. Sieur de Monts received +them civilly, and sent them back by the above Du Glas to Pont Gravé, with +orders for him to take the vessels he had captured to Rochelle, in order +that justice might be done. Meanwhile, work on the houses went on +vigorously and without cessation; the carpenters engaged on the storehouse +and dwelling of Sieur de Monts, and the others each on his own house, as I +was on mine, which I built with the assistance of some servants belonging +to Sieur d'Orville and myself. It was forthwith completed, and Sieur de +Monts lodged in it until his own was finished. An oven was also made, and a +handmill for grinding our wheat, the working of which involved much trouble +and labor to the most of us, since it was a toilsome operation. Some +gardens were afterwards laid out, on the main land as well as on the +island. Here many kinds of seeds were planted, which flourished very well +on the main land, but not on the island, since there was only sand here, +and the whole were burned up when the sun shone, although special pains +were taken to water them. + +Some days after, Sieur de Monts determined to ascertain where the mine of +pure copper was which we had searched for so much. With this object in +view, he despatched me together with a savage named Messamoüet, who +asserted that he knew the place well. I set out in a small barque of five +or six tons, with nine sailors. Some eight leagues from the island, towards +the river St. John, we found a mine of copper which was not pure, yet good +according to the report of the miner, who said that it would yield eighteen +per cent. Farther on we found others inferior to this. When we reached the +place where we supposed that was which we were hunting for, the savage +could not find it, so that it was necessary to come back, leaving the +search for another time. + +Upon my return from this trip. Sieur de Monts resolved to send his vessels +back to France, and also Sieur de Poutrincourt, who had come only for his +pleasure, and to explore countries and places suitable for a colony, which +he desired to found; for which reason he asked Sieur de Monts for Port +Royal, which he gave him in accordance with the power and directions he had +received from the king. [91] He sent back also Ralleau, his secretary, to +arrange some matters concerning the voyage. They set out from the Island of +St. Croix the last day of August, 1604. + +ENDNOTES: + +89. This was the vessel taken from Captain Rossignol and confiscated.-- + _Vide antea_, pp. 10, 12; also note 26. + +90. Champlain and others often write only Pont for Pont Gravé. Lescarbot + says Gravé was his surname.--_Vide Histoire de la Nou. Fran_., Paris, + 1612, Qvat. Liv. p. 501. To prevent any confusion, we write it Pont + Gravé in all cases. + +91. De Monts's charter provided for the distribution of lands to colonists. + This gift to De Poutrincourt was confirmed afterwards by the king. We + may here remark that there is the usual discrepancy in the orthography + of this name. Lescarbot, De Laet, and Charlevoix write Poutrincourt. In + his Latin epitaph, _vide Murdoch's Nova Scotia_, Vol. I. p. 59, it is + Potrincurtius, while Champlain has Poitrincourt. In Poutrincourt's + letter to the Roman Pontiff, Paul V., written in Latin, he says, _Ego + Johannes de Biencour, vulgo De Povtrincovr a vitae religionis amator et + attestor perpetuus_, etc. This must be conclusive for Poutrincourt as + the proper orthography.--_Vide His. Nov. Fra._, par Lescarbot, Paris, + 1612, p. 612. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +OF THE COAST, INHABITANTS, AND RIVER OF NORUMBEGUE, AND OF ALL THAT +OCCURRED DURING THE EXPLORATION OF THE LATTER. + + +After the departure of the vessels, Sieur de Monts, without losing time, +decided to send persons to make discoveries along the coast of Norumbegue; +and he intrusted me with this work, which I found very agreeable. + +In order to execute this commission, I set out from St. Croix on the 2d of +September with a patache of seventeen or eighteen tons, twelve sailors, and +two savages, to serve us as guides to the places with which they were +acquainted. The same day we found the vessels where Sieur de Poutrincourt +was, which were anchored at the mouth of the river St. Croix in consequence +of bad weather, which place we could not leave before the 5th of the month. +Having gone two or three leagues seaward, so dense a fog arose that we at +once lost sight of their vessels. Continuing our course along the coast, we +made the same day some twenty-five leagues, and passed by a large number of +islands, banks, reefs, and rocks, which in places extend more than four +leagues out to Sea. We called the islands the Ranges, most of which are +covered with pines, firs, and other trees of an inferior sort. Among these +islands are many fine harbors, but undesirable for a permanent settlement. +The same day we passed also near to an island about four or five leagues +long, in the neighborhood of which we just escaped being lost on a little +rock on a level with the water, which made an opening in our barque near +the keel. From this island to the main land on the north, the distance is +less than a hundred paces. It is very high, and notched in places, so that +there is the appearance to one at sea, as of seven or eight mountains +extending along near each other. The summit of the most of them is +destitute of trees, as there are only rocks on them. The woods consist of +pines, firs, and birches only. I named it Isle des Monts Déserts.[92] The +latitude is 44° 30'. + +The next day, the 6th of the month, we sailed two leagues, and perceived a +smoke in a cove at the foot of the mountains above mentioned. We saw two +canoes rowed by savages, which came within musket range to observe us. I +sent our two savages in a boat to assure them of our friendship. Their fear +of us made them turn back. On the morning of the next day, they came +alongside of our barque and talked with our savages. I ordered some +biscuit, tobacco, and other trifles to be given them. These savages had +come beaver-hunting and to catch fish, some of which they gave us. Having +made an alliance with them, they guided us to their river of Pentegoüet, +[93] so called by them, where they told us was their captain, named +Bessabez, chief of this river. I think this river is that which several +pilots and historians call Norumbegue, [94] and which most have described +as large and extensive, with very many islands, its mouth being in latitude +43°, 43° 30', according to others in 44°, more or less. With regard to the +deflection, I have neither read, nor heard any one say any thing. It is +related also that there is a large, thickly settled town of savages, who +are adroit and skillful, and who have cotton yarn. I am confident that most +of those who mention it have not seen it, and speak of it because they have +heard persons say so, who knew no more about it than they themselves. I am +ready to believe that some may have seen the mouth of it, because there are +in reality many islands, and it is, as they say, in latitude 44° at its +entrance. But that any one has ever entered it there is no evidence, for +then they would have described it in another manner, in order to relieve +the minds of many of this doubt. + +I will accordingly relate truly what I explored and saw, from the beginning +as far as I went. + +In the first place, there are at its entrance several islands distant ten +or twelve leagues from the main land, which are in latitude 44°, and 18° +40' of the deflection of the magnetic needle. The Isle des Monts Déserts +forms one of the extremities of the mouth, on the east; the other is low +land, called by the savages Bedabedec, [95] to the west of the former, the +two being distant from each other nine or ten leagues. Almost midway +between these, out in the ocean, there is another island very high and +conspicuous, which on this account I have named Isle Haute. [96] All around +there is a vast number of varying extent and breadth, but the largest is +that of the Monts Déserts. Fishing as also hunting are very good here; the +fish are of various kinds. Some two or three leagues from the point of +Bedabedec, as you coast northward along the main land which extends up this +river, there are very high elevations of land, which in fair weather are +seen twelve or fifteen leagues out at Sea. [97] Passing to the South of the +Isle Haute, and coasting along the same for a quarter of a league, where +there are some reefs out of water, and heading to the west until you open +all the mountains northward of this island, you can be sure that, by +keeping in sight the eight or nine peaks of the Monts Déserts and +Bedabedec, you will cross the river Norumbegue; and in order to enter it +you must keep to the north, that is, towards the highest mountains of +Bedabedec, where you will see no islands before you, and can enter, sure of +having water enough, although you see a great many breakers, islands, and +rocks to the east and west of you. For greater security, one should keep +the sounding lead in hand. And my observations lead me to conclude that one +cannot enter this river in any other place except in small vessels or +shallops. For, as I stated above, there are numerous islands, rocks, +shoals, banks, and breakers on all sides, so that it is marvellous to +behold. + +Now to resume our course: as one enters the river, there are beautiful +islands, which are very pleasant and contain fine meadows. We proceeded to +a place to which the savages guided us, where the river is not more than an +eighth of a league broad, and at a distance of some two hundred paces from +the western shore there is a rock on a level with the water, of a dangerous +character.[98] From here to the Isle Haute, it is fifteen leagues. From +this narrow place, where there is the least breadth that we had found, +after sailing some seven or eight leagues, we came to a little river near +which it was necessary to anchor, as we saw before us a great many rocks +which are uncovered at low tide, and since also, if we had desired to sail +farther, we could have gone scarcely half a league, in consequence of a +fall of water there coming down a slope of seven or eight feet, which I saw +as I went there in a canoe with our savages; and we found only water enough +for a canoe. But excepting the fall, which is some two hundred paces broad, +the river is beautiful, and unobstructed up to the place where we had +anchored. I landed to view the country, and, going on a-hunting excursion, +found it very pleasant so far as I went. The oaks here appear as if they +were planted for ornament. I saw only a few firs, but numerous pines on one +side of the river; on the other only oaks, and some copse wood which +extends far into the interior.[99] And I will state that from the entrance +to where we went, about twenty-five leagues, we saw no town, nor village, +nor the appearance of there having been one, but one or two cabins of the +savages without inhabitants. These were made in the same way as those of +the Souriquois, being covered with the bark of trees. So far as we could +judge, the savages on this river are few in number, and are called +Etechemins. Moreover, they only come to the islands, and that only during +some months in summer for fish and game, of which there is a great +quantity. They are a people who have no fixed abode, so far as I could +observe and learn from them. For they spend the winter now in one place and +now in another, according as they find the best hunting, by which they live +when urged by their daily needs, without laying up any thing for times of +scarcity, which are sometimes severe. + +Now this river must of necessity be the Norumbegue; for, having coasted +along past it as far as the 41° of latitude, we have found no other on the +parallel above mentioned, except that of the Quinibequy, which is almost in +the same latitude, but not of great extent. Moreover, there cannot be in +any other place a river extending far into the interior of the country, +since the great river St. Lawrence washes the coast of La Cadie and +Norumbegue, and the distance from one to the other by land is not more than +forty-five leagues, or sixty at the widest point, as can be seen on my +geographical map. + +Now I will drop this discussion to return to the savages who had conducted +me to the falls of the river Norumbegue, who went to notify Bessabez, their +chief, and other savages, who in turn proceeded to another little river to +inform their own, named Cabahis, and give him notice of our arrival. + +The 16th of the month there came to us some thirty savages on assurances +given them by those who had served us as guides. There came also to us the +same day the above named Bessabez with six canoes. As soon as the savages +who were on land saw him coming, they all began to sing, dance, and jump, +until he had landed. Afterwards, they all seated themselves in a circle on +the ground, as is their custom, when they wish to celebrate a festivity, or +an harangue is to be made. Cabahis, the other chief, arrived also a little +later with twenty or thirty of his companions, who withdrew one side and +enjoyed greatly seeing us, as it was the first time they had seen +Christians. A little while after, I went on shore with two of my companions +and two of our savages who served as interpreters. I directed the men in +our barque to approach near the savages, and hold their arms in readiness +to do their duty in case they noticed any movement of these people against +us. Bessabez, seeing us on land, bade us sit down, and began to smoke with +his companions, as they usually do before an address. They presented us +with venison and game. + +I directed our interpreter to say to our savages that they should cause +Bessabez, Cabahis, and their companions to understand that Sieur de Monts +had sent me to them to see them, and also their country, and that he +desired to preserve friendship with them and to reconcile them with their +enemies, the Souriquois and Canadians, and moreover that he desired to +inhabit their country and show them how to cultivate it, in order that they +might not continue to lead so miserable a life as they were doing, and some +other words on the same subject. This our savages interpreted to them, at +which they signified their great satisfaction, saying that no greater good +could come to them than to have our friendship, and that they desired to +live in peace with their enemies, and that we should dwell in their land, +in order that they might in future more than ever before engage in hunting +beavers, and give us a part of them in return for our providing them with +things which they wanted. After he had finished his discourse, I presented +them with hatchets, paternosters, caps, knives, and other little +knick-knacks, when we separated from each other. All the rest of this day +and the following night, until break of day, they did nothing but dance, +sing, and make merry, after which we traded for a certain number of +beavers. Then each party returned, Bessabez with his companions on the one +side, and we on the other, highly pleased at having made the acquaintance +of this people. + +The 17th of the month I took the altitude, [100] and found the latitude 45° +25'. This done, we set out for another river called Quinibequy, distant +from this place thirty-five leagues, and nearly twenty from Bedabedec. This +nation of savages of Quinibequy are called Etechemins, as well as those of +Norumbegue. + +The 18th of the month we passed near a small river where Cabahis was, who +came with us in our barque some twelve leagues; and having asked him whence +came the river Norumbegue, he told me that it passes the fall which I +mentioned above, and that one journeying some distance on it enters a lake +by way of which they come to the river of St. Croix, by going some distance +over land, and then entering the river of the Etechemins. Moreover, another +river enters the lake, along which they proceed some days, and afterwards +enter another lake and pass through the midst of it. Reaching the end of +it, they make again a land journey of some distance, and then enter another +little river, which has its mouth a league from Quebec, which is on the +great river St. Lawrence. [101] All these people of Norumbegue are very +swarthy, dressed in beaver-skins and other furs, like the Canadian and +Souriquois savages, and they have the same mode of life. + +The 20th of the month we sailed along the western coast, and passed the +mountains of Bedabedec, [102] when we anchored. The same day we explored +the entrance to the river, where large vessels can approach; but there are +inside some reefs, to avoid which one must advance with sounding lead in +hand. Our savages left us, as they did not wish to go to Quinibequy, for +the savages of that place are great enemies to them. We sailed some eight +leagues along the western coast to an island [103] ten leagues distant from +Quinibequy, where we were obliged to put in on account of bad weather and +contrary wind. At one point in our course, we passed a large number of +islands and breakers extending some leagues out to sea, and very dangerous. +And in view of the bad weather, which was so unfavorable to us, we did not +sail more than three or four leagues farther. All these islands and coasts +are covered with extensive woods, of the same sort as that which I have +reported above as existing on the other coasts. And in consideration of the +small quantity of provisions which we had, we resolved to return to our +settlement and wait until the following year, when we hoped to return and +explore more extensively. We accordingly set out on our return on the 23d +of September, and arrived at our settlement on the 2d of October following. + +The above is an exact statement of all that I have observed respecting not +only the coasts and people, but also the river of Norumbegue; and there are +none of the marvels there which some persons have described. I am of +opinion that this region is as disagreeable in winter as that of our +settlement, in which we were greatly deceived. [104] + +ENDNOTES: + +92. The natives called this island Pemetiq. _Isle que les Saunages + appellent Pemetiq.--Vide Relation de la Nouvelle-France_, par F. Biard. + 1616. Relations des Jésuites, Quebec ed. 1858. p. 44. When the attempt + was made in 1613 to plant a colony there by the Marchioness de + Guercheville, the settlement was named St. Sauveur. This island was + also by the English called Mount Mansell. But the name given to it by + Champlain has prevailed, and still adheres to it. + + The description here given of the barrenness of the island clearly + suggests the origin of the name. Desert should therefore be pronounced + with the accent on the first syllable. The latitude of the most + northern limit of the island is 44° 24'. + +93. Penobscot. The name of this river has been variously written Pentagoet, + Pentagwet, Pemptegoet, Pentagovett, Penobskeag, Penaubsket, and in + various other ways. The English began early to write it Penobscot. It + is a word of Indian origin, and different meanings have been assigned + to it by those who have undertaken to interpret the language from which + it is derived. + +94. The Abbé Laverdière is of the opinion that the river Norumbegue was + identical with the Bay of Fundy. His only authority is Jean Alfonse, + the chief pilot of Roberval in 1541-42. Alfonse says; "Beyond the cape + of Noroveregue descends the river of the said Noroveregue, which is + about twenty-five leagues from the cape. The said river is more than + forty leagues broad at its mouth, and extends this width inward well + thirty or forty leagues, and is all full of islands which enter ten or + twelve leagues into the sea, and it is very dangerous with rocks and + reefs." If the cape of Norumbegue is the present Cape Sable, as it is + supposed to be, by coasting along the shores of Nova Scotia from that + cape in a north-westerly direction a little more than twenty leagues, + we shall reach St. Mary's Bay, which may be regarded as the beginning + of the Bay of Fundy, and from that point in a straight line to the + mouth of the Penobscot the distance is more than forty leagues, which + was the breadth of the Norumbegue at its mouth, according to the + statement of Alfonse. The Abbé Laverdière is not quite correct in + saying that the river Norumbegue is the same as the Bay of Fundy. It + includes, according to Alfonse, who is not altogether consistent with + himself, not only the Bay of Fundy, but likewise the Penobscot River + and the bay of the same name, with its numerous islands. Alfonse left a + drawing or map of this region in his Cosmography, which Laverdière had + not probably seen, on which the Bay of Fundy and the Penobscot are + correctly laid down, and the latter is designated the "_Rivière de + Norvebergue_." It is therefore obvious, if this map can be relied upon, + that the river of Norumbegue was identical, not with the Bay of Fundy, + but with the Penobscot, in the opinion of Alfonse, in common with the + "plusieurs pilottes et historiens" referred to by Champlain.--_Vide + copy of the Chart from the MS. Cosmography of Juan Alfonse_ in + Bibliothèque Nationale, Paris, in Mr. Murphy's Voyage of Verrazzano, + New York, 1875. + +95. An indefinite region about Rockland and Camden, on the western bank of + the Penobscot near its mouth, appears to have been the domain of the + Indian chief, Bessabez, and was denominated Bedabedec. The Camden Hills + were called the mountains of Bedabedec, and Owl's Head was called + Bedabedec Point. + +96. Isle Haute, _high island_, which name it still retains. Champlain wrote + it on his map, 1632, "Isle Haulte." It has been anglicized by some into + Isle Holt. It is nearly six miles long, and has an average width of + over two miles, and is the highest land in its vicinity, reaching at + its highest point four hundred feet above the level of the sea. + +97. Camden Hills or Mountains. They are five or six in number, from 900 to + 1,500 feet high, and maybe seen, it is said, twenty leagues at sea. The + more prominent are Mt. Batty, Mt. Pleasant, and Mt. Hosmer, or Ragged + Mountain. They are Sometimes called the Megunticook Range. Colonel + Benjamin Church denominates them "Mathebestuck's Hills,"--_Vide + Church's History of King Philip's War_, Newport, 1772, p. 143. Captain + John Smith calls them the mountains of Penobscot, "against whose feet + doth beat the sea." which, he adds, "you may well see sixteen or + eighteen leagues from their situation." + +98. This narrow place in the river is just above Castine, where Cape + Jellison stretches out towards the east, at the head of the bay, and at + the mouth of the river. At the extremity of the cape is Fort Point, so + called from Fort Pownall, erected there in 1759, a step rocky elevation + of about eighty feet in height. Before the erection of the fort by + Governor Pownall, it was called Wafaumkeag Point.--_Vide Pownall's + Journal_, Col. Me. His. Soc., Vol. V. p. 385. The "rock" alluded to by + Champlain is Fort Point Ledge, bare at half tide, south-east by east + from the Point, and distant over half a mile. Champlain's distances + here are somewhat overestimated. + +99. The terminus of this exploration of the Penobscot was near the present + site of the city of Bangor. The small river near the mouth of which + they anchored was the Kenduskeag. The falls which Champlain visited + with the Indians in a canoe are those a short distance above the + city. The sentence, a few lines back, beginning "But excepting this + fall" is complicated, and not quite logical, but the author evidently + means to describe the river from its mouth to the place of their + anchorage at Bangor. + +100. The interview with the Indians on the 16th, and the taking of the + altitude on the 17th, must have occurred before the party left their + anchorage at Bangor with the purpose, but which they did not + accomplish that year, of visiting the Kennebec. This may be inferred + from Champlain's statement that the Kennebec was thirty-five leagues + distant from the place where they then were, and nearly twenty leagues + distant from Bedabedec. Consequently, they were fifteen leagues above + Bedabedec, which was situated near the mouth of the river. The + latitude, which they obtained from their observations, was far from + correct: it should be 44° 46'. + +101. The Indian chief Cabahis here points out two trails, the one leading + to the French habitation just established on the Island of St. Croix, + the other to Quebec; by the former, passing up the Penobscot from the + present site of Bangor, entering the Matawamkeag, keeping to the east + in their light bark canoes to Lake Boscanhegan, and from there passing + by land to the stream then known as the river of the Etechemins, now + called the Scoudic or St. Croix. The expression "by which they come to + the river of St. Croix" is explanatory: it has no reference to the + name of the river, but means simply that the trail leads to the river + in which was the island of St. Croix. This river had not then been + named St. Croix, but had been called by them the river of the + Etechemins.--_Vide antea_, p. 31. + + The other trail led up the north branch of the Penobscot, passing + through Lake Pemadumcook, and then on through Lake Chefuncook, finally + reaching the source of this stream which is near that of the + Chaudière, which latter flows into the St. Lawrence, near Quebec. It + would seem from the text that Champlain supposed that the Penobscot + flowed from a lake into which streams flowed from both the objective + points, viz. St. Croix and Quebec: but this was a mistake not at all + unnatural, as he had never been over the ground, and obtained his + information from the Indians, whose language he imperfectly + understood. + +102. Bedabedec is an Indian word, signifying cape of the waters, and was + plainly the point known as Owl's Head. It gave name to the Camden + Mountains also. _Vide antea_, note 95. + +103. Mosquito and Metinic Islands are each about ten leagues east of the + Kennebec. As the party went but four leagues further, the voyage must + have terminated in Muscongus Bay. + +104. An idle story had been circulated, and even found a place on the pages + of sober history, that on the Penobscot, or Norumbegue, as it was then + called, there existed a fair town, a populous city, with the + accessories of luxury and wealth. Champlain here takes pains to show, + in the fullest manner, that this story was a baseless dream of fancy, + and utterly without foundation. Of it Lescarbot naïvely says, "If this + beautiful town hath ever existed in nature, I would fain know who hath + pulled it down, for there are now only a few scattered wigwams made of + poles covered with the bark of trees and the skins of wild beasts." + There is no evidence, and no probability, that this river had been + navigated by Europeans anterior to this exploration of Champlain. The + existence of the bay and the river had been noted long before. They + are indicated on the map of Ribero in 1529. Rio de Gamas and Rio + Grande appear on early maps as names of this river, but are soon + displaced for Norumbega, a name which was sometimes extended to a wide + range of territory on both sides of the Penobscot. On the Mappe-Monde + of 1543-47, issued by the late M. Jomard, it is denominated + Auorobagra, evidently intended for Norumbega. Thevet, who visited it, + or sailed along its mouth in 1556, speaks of it as Norumbegue. It is + alleged that the aborigines called it Agguncia. According to Jean + Alfonse, it was discovered by the Portuguese and Spaniards.--_Vide + His. de la N. France_, par M. Lescarbot, Paris, 1612, Qvat. Liv. + p. 495. The orthography of this name is various among early writers, + but Norumbegue is adopted by the most approved modern authors. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +OF THE MAL DE LA TERRE, A VERY DESPERATE MALADY.--HOW THE SAVAGES, MEN AND +WOMEN, SPEND THEIR TIME IN WINTER.--AND ALL THAT OCCURRED AT THE SETTLEMENT +WHILE WE WERE PASSING THE WINTER. + +When we arrived at the Island of St. Croix, each one had finished his place +of abode. Winter came upon us sooner than we expected, and prevented us +from doing many things which we had proposed. Nevertheless, Sieur de Monts +did not fail to have some gardens made on the island. Many began to clear +up the ground, each his own. I also did so with mine, which was very large, +where I planted a quantity of foods, as also did the others who had any, +and they came up very well. But since the island was all sandy, every thing +dried up almost as soon as the Sun shone upon it, and we had no water for +irrigation except from the rain, which was infrequent. + +Sieur de Monts caused also clearings to be made on the main land for making +gardens, and at the falls three leagues from our Settlement he had work +done and some wheat sown, which came up very well and ripened. Around our +habitation there is, at low tide, a large number of shell-fish, such as +cockles, muscles, sea-urchins, and Sea-snails, which were very acceptable +to all. + +The snows began on the 6th of October. On the 3d of December, we saw ice +pass which came from some frozen river. The cold was sharp, more severe +than in France, and of much longer duration; and it scarcely rained at all +the entire winter. I suppose that is owing to the north and north-west +winds passing over high mountains always covered with snow. The latter was +from three to four feet deep up to the end of the month of April; lasting +much longer, I suppose, than it would if the country were cultivated. + +During the winter, many of our company were attacked by a certain malady +called the _mal de la terre_; otherwise scurvy, as I have since heard from +learned men. There were produced, in the mouths of those who had it, great +pieces of superfluous and drivelling flesh (causing extensive +putrefaction), which got the upper hand to such an extent that scarcely +anything but liquid could be taken. Their teeth became very loose, and +could be pulled out with the fingers without its causing them pain. The +superfluous flesh was often cut out, which caused them to eject much blood +through the mouth. Afterwards, a violent pain seized their arms and legs, +which remained swollen and very hard, all spotted as if with flea-bites; +and they could not walk on account of the contraction of the muscles, so +that they were almost without strength, and suffered intolerable pains. +They experienced pain also in the loins, stomach, and bowels, had a very +bad cough, and short breath. In a word, they were in such a condition that +the majority of them could not rise nor move, and could not even be raised +up on their feet without falling down in a swoon. So that out of +seventy-nine, who composed our party, thirty-five died, and more than +twenty were on the point of death. The majority of those who remained well +also complained of slight pains and short breath. We were unable to find +any remedy for these maladies. A _post mortem_ examination of several was +made to investigate the cause of their disease. + +In the case of many, the interior parts were found mortified such as the +lungs, which were so changed that no natural fluid could be perceived in +them. The spleen was serous and swollen. The liver was _legueux?_ and +spotted, without its natural color. The _vena cava_, superior and inferior, +was filled with thick coagulated and black blood. The gall was tainted. +Nevertheless, many arteries, in the middle as well as lower bowels, were +found in very good condition. In the case of some, incisions with a razor +were made on the thighs where they had purple spots, whence there issued a +very black clotted blood. This is what was observed on the bodies of those +infected with this malady.[105] + +Our surgeons could not help suffering themselves in the same manner as the +rest. Those who continued sick were healed by spring, which commences in +this country in May.[106] That led us to believe that the change of season +restored their health rather than the remedies prescribed. + +During this winter, all our liquors froze, except the Spanish wine. Cider +was dispensed by the pound. The cause of this loss was that there were no +cellars to our storehouse, and that the air which entered by the cracks was +sharper than that outside. We were obliged to use very bad water, and drink +melted snow, as there were no springs nor brooks; for it was not possible +to go to the main land in consequence of the great pieces of ice drifted by +the tide, which varies three fathoms between low and high water. Work on +the hand-mill was very fatiguing, since the most of us, having slept +poorly, and suffering from insufficiency of fuel, which we could not obtain +on account of the ice, had scarcely any strength, and also because we ate +only salt meat and vegetables during the winter, which produce bad blood. +The latter circumstance was, in my opinion, a partial cause of these +dreadful maladies. All this produced discontent in Sieur de Monts and +others of the settlement. + +It would be very difficult to ascertain the character of this region +without spending a winter in it; for, on arriving here in summer, every +thing is very agreeable, in consequence of the woods, fine country, and the +many varieties of good fish which are found there. There are six months of +winter in this country. + +The savages who dwell here are few in number. During the winter, in the +deepest snows, they hunt elks and other animals, on which they live most of +the time. And, unless the snow is deep, they scarcely get rewarded for +their pains, since they cannot capture any thing except by a very great +effort, which is the reason for their enduring and suffering much. When +they do not hunt, they live on a shell-fish, called the cockle. They clothe +themselves in winter with good furs of beaver and elk. The women make all +the garments, but not so exactly but that you can see the flesh under the +arm-pits, because they have not ingenuity enough to fit them better. When +they go a-hunting, they use a kind of show-shoe twice as large as those +hereabouts, which they attach to the soles of their feet, and walk thus +over the snow without sinking in, the women and children as well as the +men. They search for the track of animals, which, having found, they +follow until they get sight of the creature, when they shoot at it with +their bows, or kill it by means of daggers attached to the end of a short +pike, which is very easily done, as the animals cannot walk on the snow +without sinking in. Then the women and children come up, erect a hut, and +they give themselves to feasting. Afterwards, they return in search of +other animals, and thus they pass the winter. In the month of March +following, some savages came and gave us a portion of their game in +exchange for bread and other things which we gave them. This is the mode of +life in winter of these people, which seems to me a very miserable one. + +We looked for our vessels at the end of April; but, as this passed without +their arriving, all began to have an ill-boding, fearing that some accident +had befallen them. For this reason, on the 15th of May, Sieur de Monts +decided to have a barque of fifteen tons and another of seven fitted up, so +that we might go at the end of the month of June to Gaspé in quest of +vessels in which to return to France, in case our own should not meanwhile +arrive. But God helped us better than we hoped; for, on the 15th of June +ensuing, while on guard about 11 o'clock at night, Pont Gravé, captain of +one of the vessels of Sieur de Monts, arriving in a shallop, informed us +that his ship was anchored six leagues from our settlement, and he was +welcomed amid the great joy of all. + +The next day the vessel arrived, and anchored near our habitation. Pont +Gravé informed us that a vessel from St. Malo, called the St. Estienne, +was following him, bringing us provisions and supplies. + +On the 17th of the month, Sieur de Monts decided to go in quest of a place +better adapted for an abode, and with a better temperature than our own. +With this view, he had the barque made ready, in which he had purposed to +go to Gaspé. + +ENDNOTES: + +105. _Mal de la terre_. Champlain had bitter experiences of this disease in + Quebec during the winter of 1608-9, when he was still ignorant of its + character; and it was not till several years later that he learned + that it was the old malady called _scurbut_, from the Sclavonic + _scorb_. Latinized into _scorbuticus_. Lescarbot speaks of this + disease as little understood in his time, but as known to Hippocrates. + He quotes Olaus Magnus, who describes it as it appeared among the + nations of the north, who called it _sorbet_, [Greek: kachexia], from + [Greek: kakos], bad, and [Greek: exis], a habit. This undoubtedly + expresses the true cause of this disease, now familiarly known as the + scurvy. It follows exposure to damp, cold, and impure atmosphere, + accompanied by the long-continued use of the same kind of food, + particularly of salt meats, with bad water. All of these conditions + existed at the Island of St. Croix. Champlain's description of the + disease is remarkably accurate. + +106. This passage might be read, "which is in this country in May:" _lequel + commence en ces pays là est en May_. As Laverdière suggests, it looks + as if Champlain wrote it first _commence_, and then, thinking that the + winter he had experienced might have been exceptional, substituted + _est_, omitting to erase _commence_, so that the sentence, as it + stands, is faulty, containing two verbs instead of one, and being + susceptible of a double sense. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +DISCOVERY OF THE COAST OF THE ALMOUCHIQUOIS AS FAR AS THE FORTY-SECOND +DEGREE OF LATITUDE, AND DETAILS OF THIS VOYAGE. + + +On the 18th of June, 1605, Sieur de Monts set out from the Island of +St. Croix with some gentlemen, twenty sailors, and a savage named +Panounias, together with his wife, whom he was unwilling to leave behind. +These we took, in order to serve us as guides to the country of the +Almouchiquois, in the hope of exploring and learning more particularly by +their aid what the character of this country was, especially since she was +a native of it. + +Coasting, along inside of Manan, an island three leagues from the main +land, we came to the Ranges on the seaward side, at one of which we +anchored, where there was a large number of crows, of which our men +captured a great many, and we called it the Isle aux Corneilles. Thence we +went to the Island of Monts Déserts, at the entrance of the river +Norumbegue, as I have before stated, and sailed five or six leagues among +many islands. Here there came to us three savages in a canoe from Bedabedec +Point, where their captain was; and, after we had had some conversation +with them, they returned the same day. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S DESCRIPTION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +QUINIBEQUY. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. The course of the river. +_B_. Two islands at the entrance of the river. +_C_. Two very dangerous rocks in the river. +_D_. Islets and rocks along the coast. +_E_. Shoals where at full tide vessels of sixty tons' burden may run + aground. +_F_. Place where the savages encamp when they come to fish. +_G_. Sandy shoals along the coast. +_H_. Pond of fresh water. +_I_. Brook where shallops can enter at half tide. +_L_. Islands to the number of four just within the mouth of the river. + + * * * * * + +On Friday, the 1st of July, we set out from one of the islands at the mouth +of the river, where there is a very good harbor for vessels of a hundred or +a hundred and fifty tons. This day we made some twenty-five leagues between +Bedabedec Point and many islands and rocks, which we observed as far as the +river Quinibequy, at the mouth of which is a very high island, which we +called the Tortoise. [107] Between the latter and the main land there are +some scattering rocks, which are covered at full tide, although the sea is +then seen to break over them. [108] Tortoise Island and the river lie +south-south-east and north-north-west. As you enter, there are two +medium-sized islands forming the entrance, one on one side, the other on +the other; [109] and some three hundred paces farther in are two rocks, +where there is no wood, but some little grass. We anchored three hundred +paces from the entrance in five and six fathoms of water. While in this +place, we were overtaken by fogs, on account of which we resolved to enter, +in order to see the upper part of the river and the savages who live there; +and we set out for this purpose on the 5th of the month. Having made some +leagues, our barque came near being lost on a rock which we grazed in +passing. [110] Further on, we met two canoes which had come to hunt birds, +which for the most part are moulting at this season, and cannot fly. We +addressed these savages by aid of our own, who went to them with his wife, +who made them understand the reason of our coming. We made friends with +them and with the savages of this river, who served us as guides. +Proceeding farther, in order to see their captain, named Manthoumermer, we +passed, after we had gone seven or eight leagues, by some islands, straits, +and brooks, which extend along the river, where we saw some fine +meadows. After we had coasted along an island [111] some four leagues in +length, they conducted us to where their chief was [112] with twenty-five +or thirty savages, who, as soon as we had anchored, came to us in a canoe, +separated a short distance from ten others, in which were those who +accompanied him. Coming near our barque, he made an harangue, in which he +expressed the pleasure it gave him to see us, and said that he desired to +form an alliance with us and to make peace with his enemies through our +mediation. He said that, on the next day, he would send to two other +captains of savages, who were in the interior, one called Marchin, and the +other Sasinou, chief of the river Quinibequy. Sieur de Monts gave them some +cakes and peas, with which they were greatly pleased. The next day they +guided us down the river another way than that by which we had come, in +order to go to a lake; and, passing by some islands, they left, each one of +them, an arrow near a cape [113] where all the savages pass, and they +believe that if they should not do this some misfortune would befall them, +according to the persuasions of the devil. They live in such superstitions, +and practise many others of the same sort. Beyond this cape we passed a +very narrow waterfall, but only with great difficulty; for, although we had +a favorable and fresh wind, and trimmed our sails to receive it as well as +possible, in order to see whether we could not pass it in that way, we were +obliged to attach a hawser to some trees on shore and all pull on it. In +this way, by means of our arms together with the help of the wind, which +was favorable to us, we succeeded in passing it. The savages accompanying +us carried their canoes by land, being unable to row them. After going over +this fall, we saw some fine meadows. I was greatly surprised by this fall, +since as we descended with the tide we found it in our favor, but contrary +to us when we came to the fall. But, after we had passed it, it descended +as before, which gave us great Satisfaction. [114] Pursuing our route, we +came to the lake, [115] which is from three to four leagues in length. Here +are some islands, and two rivers enter it, the Quinibequy coming from the +north north-east, and the other from the north-west, whence were to come +Marchin and Sasinou. Having awaited them all this day, and as they did not +come, we resolved to improve our time. We weighed anchor accordingly, and +there accompanied us two savages from this lake to serve as guides. The +same day we anchored at the mouth of the river, where we caught a large +number of excellent fish of various sorts. Meanwhile, our savages went +hunting, but did not return. The route by which we descended this river is +much safer and better than that by which we had gone. Tortoise Island +before the mouth of this river is in latitude [116] 44°; and 19° 12' of the +deflection of the magnetic needle. They go by this river across the country +to Quebec some fifty leagues, making only one portage of two leagues. After +the portage, you enter another little stream which flows into the great +river St. Lawrence [117]. This river Quinibequy is very dangerous for +vessels half a league from its mouth, on account of the small amount of +water, great tides, rocks and shoals outside as well as within. But it has +a good channel, if it were well marked out. The land, so far as I have seen +it along the shores of the river, is very poor, for there are only rocks on +all sides. There are a great many small oaks, and very little arable land. +Fish abound here, as in the other rivers which I have mentioned. The people +live like those in the neighborhood of our settlement; and they told us +that the savages, who plant the Indian corn, dwelt very far in the +interior, and that they had given up planting it on the coasts on account +of the war they had with others, who came and took it away. This is what I +have been able to learn about this region, which I think is no better than +the others. + +On the 8th of the month, we set out from the mouth of this river, not being +able to do so sooner on account of the fogs. We made that day some four +leagues, and passed a bay [118], where there are a great many islands. From +here large mountains [119] are seen to the west, in which is the +dwelling-place of a savage captain called Aneda, who encamps near the river +Quinibequy. I was satisfied from this name that it was one of his tribe +that had discovered the plant called Aneda, [120] which Jacques Cartier +said was so powerful against the malady called scurvy, of which we have +already spoken, which harassed his company as well as our own, when they +wintered in Canada. The savages have no knowledge at all of this plant, and +are not aware of its existence, although the above-mentioned savage has the +same name. The following day we made eight leagues. [121] As we passed +along the coast, we perceived two columns of smoke which some savages made +to attract our attention. We went and anchored in the direction of them +behind a small island near the main land, [122] where we saw more than +eighty savages running along the shore to see us, dancing and giving +expression to their joy. Sieur de Monts sent two men together with our +savage to visit them. After they had spoken some time with them, and +assured them of our friendship, we left with them one of our number, and +they delivered to us one of their companions as a hostage. Meanwhile, Sieur +de Monts visited an island, which is very beautiful in view of what it +produces; for it has fine oaks and nut-trees, the soil cleared up, and many +vineyards bearing beautiful grapes in their season, which were the first we +had seen on all these coasts from the Cap de la Hève. We named it Isle de +Bacchus [123]. It being full tide, we weighed anchor and entered a little +river, which we could not sooner do; for there is a bar, there being at low +tide only half a fathom of water, at full tide a fathom and a half, and at +the highest water two fathoms. On the other side of the bar there are +three, four, five, and six fathoms. When we had anchored, a large number of +savages came to the bank of the river, and began to dance. Their captain at +the time, whom they called Honemechin [124], was not with them. He arrived +about two or three hours later with two canoes, when he came sweeping +entirely round our barque. Our savage could understand only a few words, as +the language of the Almouchiquois [125] (for that is the name of this +nation) differs entirely from that of the Souriquois and Etechemins. These +people gave signs of being greatly pleased. Their chief had a good figure, +was young and agile. We sent some articles of merchandise on shore to +barter with them; but they had nothing but their robes to give in exchange, +for they preserve only such furs as they need for their garments. Sieur de +Monts ordered some provisions to be given to their chief, with which he was +greatly pleased, and came several times to the side of our boat to see us. +These savages shave off the hair far up on the head, and wear what remains +very long, which they comb and twist behind in various ways very neatly, +intertwined with feathers which they attach to the head. They paint their +faces black and red, like the other savages which we have seen. They are an +agile people, with well-formed bodies. Their weapons are pikes, clubs, bows +and arrows, at the end of which some attach the tail of a fish called the +signoc, others bones, while the arrows of others are entirely of wood. They +till and cultivate the soil, something which we have not hitherto +observed. In the place of ploughs, they use an instrument of very hard +wood, shaped like a spade. This river is called by the inhabitants of the +country Choüacoet. [126] + +The next day Sieur de Monts and I landed to observe their tillage on the +bank of the river. We saw their Indian corn, which they raise in gardens. +Planting three or four kernels in one place, they then heap up about it a +quantity of earth with shells of the signoc before mentioned. Then three +feet distant they plant as much more, and thus in succession. With this +corn they put in each hill three or four Brazilian beans, [127] which are +of different colors. When they grow up, they interlace with the corn, which +reaches to the height of from five to six feet; and they keep the ground +very free from weeds. We saw there many squashes,[128] and pumpkins, [129] +and tobacco, which they likewise cultivate. [130] + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +CHOUACOIT R. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. The river. +_B_. Place where they have their fortress. +_C_. Cabins in the open fields, near which they cultivate the land and + plant Indian corn. +_D_. Extensive tract of land which is sandy, but covered with grass. +_E_. Another place where they have their dwellings all together after they + have planted their corn. +_F_. Marshes with good pasturage. +_G_. Spring of fresh water. +_H_. A large point of land all cleared up except some fruit trees and wild + vines. +_I_. Little island at the entrance of the river. +_L_. Another islet. +_M_. Two islands under shelter of which vessels can anchor with good + bottom. +_N_. A point of land cleared up where Marchin came to us. +_O_. Four islands. +_P_. Little brook dry at low tide. +_Q_. Shoals along the coast. +_R_. Roadsted where vessels can anchor while waiting for the tide. + +NOTES. Of the two islands in the northern part of the bay, the larger, +marked _M_, is Stratton Island, nearly half a mile long, and a mile and a +half from Prout's Neck, which lies north of it. A quarter of a mile from +Stratton is Bluff Island, a small island north-west of it. Of the four +islands at the southern end of the bay, the most eastern is Wood Island, on +which the United States maintain a light. The next on the west, two hundred +and fifty yards distant, is Negro Island. The third still further west is +Stage Island. The fourth, quarter of a mile west of the last named, is +Basket Island. The neck or peninsula, south-west of the islands, is now +called the POOL, much resorted to as a watering-place in the summer. The +island near the mouth of the river is Ram Island, and that directly north +of it is Eagle Island. From the mouth of the River to Prout's Neck, marked, +is one of the finest beaches in New England, extending about six nautical +miles. Its Southern extremity is known as Ferry, the northern Scarborough, +and midway between them is Old Orchard Beach, the latter a popular resort +in the summer months of persons from distant parts of the United States and +Canada. + + * * * * * + +The Indian corn which we saw was at that time about two feet high, some of +it as high as three. The beans were beginning to flower, as also the +pumpkins and squashes. They plant their corn in May, and gather it in +September. We saw also a great many nuts, which are small and have several +divisions. There were as yet none on the trees, but we found plenty under +them, from the preceding year. We saw also many grape-vines, on which there +was a remarkably fine berry, from which we made some very good verjuice. +We had heretofore seen grapes only on the Island of Bacchus, distant nearly +two leagues from this river. Their permanent abode, the tillage, and the +fine trees led us to conclude that the air here is milder and better than +that where we passed the winter, and at the other places we visited on the +coast. But I cannot believe that there is not here a considerable degree +of cold, although it is in latitude 43° 45'. [131] The forests in the +interior are very thin, although abounding in oaks, beeches, ashes, and +elms; in wet places there are many willows. The savages dwell permanently +in this place, and have a large cabin surrounded by palisades made of +rather large trees placed by the side of each other, in which they take +refuge when their enemies make war upon them. [132] They cover their cabins +with oak bark. This place is very pleasant, and as agreeable as any to be +seen. The river is very abundant in fish, and is bordered by meadows. At +the mouth there is a small island adapted for the construction of a good +fortress, where one could be in security. + +On Sunday, [133] the 12th of the month, we set out from the river +Choüacoet. After coasting along some six or seven leagues, a contrary wind +arose, which obliged us to anchor and go ashore, [134] where we saw two +meadows, each a league in length and half a league in breadth. We saw there +two savages, whom at first we took to be the great birds called bustards, +to be found in this country; who, as soon as they caught sight of us, took +flight into the woods, and were not seen again. From Choüacoet to this +place, where we saw some little birds, which sing like blackbirds, and are +black excepting the ends of the wings, which are orange-colored, [135] +there is a large number of grape-vines and nut-trees. This coast is sandy, +for the most part, all the way from Quinibequy. This day we returned two +or three leagues towards Choüacoet, as far as a cape which we called Island +Harbor, [136] favorable for vessels of a hundred tons, about which are +three islands. Heading north-east a quarter north, one can enter another +harbor [137] near this place, to which there is no approach, although there +are islands, except the one where you enter. At the entrance there are some +dangerous reefs. There are in these islands so many red currants that one +sees for the most part nothing else, [138] and an infinite number of +pigeons, [139] of which we took a great quantity. This Island Harbor [140] +is in latitude 43° 25'. + +On the 15th of the month we made twelve leagues. Coasting along, we +perceived a smoke on the shore, which we approached as near as possible, +but saw no savage, which led us to believe that they had fled. The sun set, +and we could find no harbor for that night, since the coast was flat and +sandy. Keeping off, and heading south, in order to find an anchorage, after +proceeding about two leagues, we observed a cape [141] on the main land +south a quarter south-east of us, some six leagues distant. Two leagues to +the east we saw three or four rather high islands, [142] and on the west a +large bay. The coast of this bay, reaching as far as the cape, extends +inland from where we were perhaps four leagues. It has a breadth of two +leagues from north to south, and three at its entrance. [143] Not observing +any place favorable for putting in, [144] we resolved to go to the cape +above mentioned with short sail, which occupied a portion of the night. +Approaching to where there were sixteen fathoms of water, we anchored until +daybreak. + +On the next day we went to the above-mentioned cape, where there are three +islands [145] near the main land, full of wood of different kinds, as at +Choüacoet and all along the coast; and still another flat one, where there +are breakers, and which extends a little farther out to Sea than the +others, on which there is no wood at all. We named this place Island Cape, +[146] near which we saw a canoe containing five or six savages, who came +out near our barque, and then went back and danced on the beach. Sieur de +Monts sent me on shore to observe them, and to give each one of them a +knife and some biscuit, which caused them to dance again better than +before. This over, I made them understand, as well as I could, that I +desired them to show me the course of the shore. After I had drawn with a +crayon the bay, [147] and the Island Cape, where we were, with the same +crayon they drew the outline of another bay, [148] which they represented +as very large; here they placed six pebbles at equal distances apart, +giving me to understand by this that these signs represented as many chiefs +and tribes. [149] Then they drew within the first mentioned bay a river +which we had passed, which has shoals and is very long. [150] We found in +this place a great many vines, the green grapes on which were a little +larger than peas, also many nut-trees, the nuts on which were no larger +than musket-balls. The savages told us that all those inhabiting this +country cultivated the land and sowed seeds like the others, whom we had +before seen. The latitude of this place is 43° and some minutes. [151] +Sailing half a league farther, we observed several savages on a rocky +point, [152] who ran along the shore, dancing as they went, to their +companions to inform them of our coming. After pointing out to us the +direction of their abode, they made a signal with smoke to show us the +place of their settlement. We anchored near a little island, [153] and sent +our canoe with knives and cakes for the savages. From the large number of +those we saw, we concluded that these places were better inhabited than the +others we had seen. + +After a stay of some two hours for the sake of observing those people, +whose canoes are made of birch bark, like those of the Canadians, +Souriquois, and Etechemins, we weighed anchor and set sail with a promise +of fine weather. Continuing our course to the west-south-west we saw +numerous islands on one side and the other. Having sailed seven or eight +leagues, we anchored near an island, [154] whence we observed many smokes +along the shore, and many savages running up to see us. Sieur de Monts sent +two or three men in a canoe to them, to whom he gave some knives and +paternosters to present to them; with which they were greatly pleased, and +danced several times in acknowledgment. We could not ascertain the name of +their chief, as we did not know their language. All along the shore there +is a great deal of land cleared up and planted with Indian corn. The +country is very pleasant and agreeable, and there is no lack of fine trees. +The canoes of those who live there are made of a single piece, and are very +liable to turn over if one is not skilful in managing them. We had not +before seen any of this kind. They are made in the following manner. After +cutting down, at a cost of much labor and time, the largest and tallest +tree they can find, by means of stone hatchets (for they have no others +except some few which they received from the savages on the coasts of La +Cadie, [155] them in exchange for furs), they remove the bark, and round +off the tree except on one side, where they apply fire gradually along its +entire length; and sometimes they put red-hot pebble-stones on top. When +the fire is too fierce, they extinguish it with a little water, not +entirely, but so that the edge of the boat may not be burnt. It being +hollowed out as much as they wish, they scrape it all over with stones, +which they use instead of knives. These stones resemble our musket flints. + +On the next day, the 17th of the month, we weighed anchor to go to a cape +we had seen the day before, which seemed to lie on our south +south-west. This day we were able to make only five leagues, and we passed +by some islands [156] covered with wood. I observed in the bay all that the +savages had described to me at Island Cape. As we continued our course, +large numbers came to us in canoes from the islands and main land. We +anchored a league from a cape, which we named St. Louis, [157] where we +noticed smoke in several places. While in the act of going there, our +barque grounded on a rock, where we were in great danger, for, if we had +not speedily got it off, it would have overturned in the sea, since the +tide was falling all around, and there were five or six fathoms of +water. But God preserved us, and we anchored near the above-named cape, +when there come to us fifteen or sixteen canoes of savages. In some of them +there were fifteen or sixteen, who began to manifest great signs of joy, +and made various harangues, which we could not in the least understand. +Sieur de Monts sent three or four men on shore in our canoe, not only to +get water, but to see their chief, whose name was Honabetha. The latter had +a number of knives and other trifles, which Sieur de Monts gave him, when +he came alongside to see us, together with some of his companions, who were +present both along the shore and in their canoes. We received the chief +very cordially, and made him welcome; who, after remaining some time, went +back. Those whom we had sent to them brought us some little squashes as big +as the fist, which we ate as a salad, like cucumbers, and which we found +very good. They brought also some purslane, [158] which grows in large +quantities among the Indian corn, and of which they make no more account +than of weeds. We saw here a great many little houses, scattered over the +fields where they plant their Indian corn. + +There is, moreover, in this bay a very broad river, which we named River du +Guast. [159] It stretches, as it seemed to me, towards the Iroquois, a +nation in open warfare with the Montagnais, who live on the great river +St. Lawrence. + +ENDNOTES: + +107. _Isle de la Tortue_, commonly known as Seguin Island, high and rocky, + with precipitous shores. It is nearly equidistant from Wood, Pond, and + Salter's Islands at the mouth of the Kennebec, and about one mile and + three quarters from each. The United States light upon it is 180 feet + above the level of the sea. It may be seen at the distance of twenty + miles. + +108. Ellingwood Rock, Seguin Ledges, and White Ledge. + +109. Pond Island on the west, and Stage Island on the east: the two rocks + referred to in the same sentence are now called the Sugar Loaves. + +110. This was apparently in the upper part of Back River, where it is + exceedingly narrow. The minute and circumstantial description of the + mouth of the Kennebec, and the positive statement in the text that + they entered the river so described, and the conformity of the + description to that laid down on our Coast Survey Charts, as well as + on Champlain's local map, all render it certain that they entered the + mouth of the Kennebec proper; and having entered, they must have + passed on a flood-tide into and through Back River, which in some + places is so narrow that their little barque could hardly fall to be + grazed in passing. Having reached Hockomock Bay, they passed down + through the lower Hell Gate, rounded the southern point of West Port + or Jerremisquam Island, sailing up its eastern shore until they + reached the harbor of Wiscasset; then down the western side, turning + Hockomock Point, threading the narrow passage of the Sasanoa River + through the upper Hell Gate, entering the Sagadahoc, passing the + Chops, and finally through the Neck, into Merrymeeting Bay. The + narrowness of the channel and the want of water at low tide in Back + River would seem at first blush to throw a doubt over the possibility + of Champlain's passing through this tidal passage. But it has at least + seven feet of water at high tide. His little barque, of fifteen tons, + without any cargo, would not draw more than four feet at most, and + would pass through without any difficulty, incommoded only by the + narrowness of the channel to which Champlain refers. With the same + barque, they passed over the bar at Nauset, or Mallebarre, where + Champlain distinctly says there were only four feet of water.--_Vide + postea_, p. 81. + +111. West Port, or Jerremisquam Island. + +112. This was Wiscasset Harbor, as farther on it will be seen that from + this point they started down the river, taking another way than that + by which they had come. + +113. Hockomock Point, a rocky precipitous bluff. + +114. The movement of the waters about this "narrow waterfall" has been a + puzzle from the days of Champlain to the present time. The phenomena + have not changed. Having consulted the United States Coast Pilot and + likewise several persons who have navigated these waters and have a + personal knowledge of the "fall," the following is, we think, a + satisfactory explanation. The stream in which the fall occurs is + called the Sasanoa, and is a tidal current flowing from the Kennebec, + opposite the city of Bath, to the Sheepscot. It was up this tidal + passage that Champlain was sailing from the waters of the Sheepscot to + the Kennebec, and the "narrow waterfall" was what is now called the + upper Hell Gate, which is only fifty yards wide, hemmed in by walls of + rock on both sides. Above it the Sasanoa expands into a broad bay. + When the tide from the Kennebec has filled this bay, the water rushes + through this narrow gate with a velocity Sometimes of thirteen miles + an hour. There is properly no fall in the bed of the stream, but the + appearance of a fall is occasioned by the pent-up waters of the bay + above rushing through this narrow outlet, having accumulated faster + than they could be drained off. At half ebb, on a spring tide, a wall + of water from six inches to a foot stretches across the stream, and + the roar of the flood boiling over the rocks at the Gate can be heard + two miles below. The tide continues to flow up the Sasanoa from the + Sheepscot not only on the flood, but for some time on the ebb, as the + waters in the upper part of the Sheepscot and its bays, in returning, + naturally force themselves up this passage until they are sufficiently + drained off to turn the current in the Sasanoa in the other direction. + Champlain, sailing from the Sheepscot up the Sasanoa, arrived at the + Gate probably just as the tide was beginning to turn, and when there + was comparatively only a slight fall, but yet enough to make it + necessary to force their little barque up through the Gate by means of + hawsers as described in the text. After getting a short distance from + the narrows, he would be on the water ebbing back into the Kennebec, + and would be still moving with the tide, as he had been until he + reached the fall. + +115. Merrymeeting Bay, so called from the meeting in this bay of the two + rivers mentioned in the text a little below, viz., the Kennebec and + the Androscoggin. + +116. The latitude of Seguin, here called Tortoise Island, is 43° 42' 25". + +117. The head-waters of the Kennebec, as well as those of the Penobscot, + approach very near to the Chaudière, which flows into the St. + Lawrence near Quebec. + +118. Casco Bay, which stretches from Cape Small Point to Cape Elizabeth. It + has within it a hundred and thirty-six islands. They anchored and + passed the night somewhere within the limits of this bay, but did not + attempt its exploration. + +119. These were the White Mountains in New Hampshire, towering above the + sea 6,225 feet. They are about sixty miles distant from Casco Bay, and + were observed by all the early voyagers as they sailed along the coast + of Maine. They are referred to on Ribero's Map of 1529 by the Spanish + word _montañas_, and were evidently seen by Estevan Gomez in 1525, + whose discoveries are delineated by this map. They will also be found + on the Mappe-Monde of about the middle of the sixteenth century, and + on Sebastian Cabot's map, 1544, both included in the "Monuments de la + Géographie" of Jomard, and they are also indicated on numerous other + early maps. + +120. This conjecture is not sustained by any evidence beyond the similarity + of the names. There are numerous idle opinions as to the kind of plant + which was so efficacious a remedy for the scurvy, but they are utterly + without foundation. There does not appear to be any means of + determining what the healing plant was. + +121. The four leagues of the previous day added to the eight of this bring + them from the Kennebec to Saco Bay. + +122. The small island "proche de la grande terre" was Stratton Island: they + anchored on the northern side and nearly east of Bluff Island, which + is a quarter of a mile distant. The Indians came down to welcome them + from the promontory long known as Black Point, now called Prout's + Neck. Compare Champlain's local map and the United States Coast Survey + Charts. + +123. Champlain's narrative, together with his sketch or drawing, + illustrating the mouth of the Saco and its environs, compared with the + United States Coast Survey Charts, renders it certain that this was + Richmond Island. Lescarbot describes it as a 'great island, about half + a league in compass, at the entrance of the bay of the said place of + Choüacoet It is about a mile long, and eight hundred yards in its + greatest width.--_Coast Pilot_. It received its present name at a very + early period. It was granted under the title of "a small island, + called Richmond," by the Council for New England to Walter Bagnall, + Dec. 2, 1631.--_Vide Calendar of Eng. State Papers_, Col. 1574-1660, + p. 137. Concerning the death of Bagnall on this island a short time + before the above grant was made, _vide Winthrop's Hist. New Eng._, + ed. 1853, Vol. I. pp. 75, 118. + +124. Lescarbot calls him Olmechin.--_Histoire de la Nouvelle France_, par + M. Lescarbot, Paris, 1612, p. 558. + +125. They had hoped that the wife of Panounias, their Indian guide, who was + said to have been born among the Almouchiquois, would be able to + interpret their language, but in this they appear to have been + disappointed.--_Vide antea_, p. 55. + +126. From the Indian word, M'-foo-ah-koo-et, or, as the French pronounced + it, _Choüacoet_, which had been the name, applied by the aborigines to + this locality we know not how long, is derived the name Saco, now + given to the river and city in the same vicinity. The orthography + given to the original word is various, as Sawocotuck, Sowocatuck, + Sawakquatook, Sockhigones, and Choüacost. The variations in this, as + in other Indian words, may have arisen from a misapprehension of the + sound given by the aborigines, or from ignorance, on the part of + writers, of the proper method of representing sounds, joined to an + utter indifference to a matter which seemed to them of trifling + importance. + +127. _Febues du Brésil_. This is the well-known trailing or bush-bean of + New England, _Phaseolus vulgaris_, called the "Brazilian bean" because + it resembled a bean known in France at that time under that name. It + is sometimes called the kidney-bean. It is indigenous to America. + +128. _Citrouilles_, the common summer squash, _Cucurbita polymorpha_, as + may be seen by reference to Champlain's map of 1612, where its form is + delineated over the inscription, _la forme des sitroules_. It is + indigenous to America. Our word squash is derived from the Indian + _askutasquash_ or _isquoutersquash_. "In summer, when their corne is + spent, Isquoutersquashes is their best bread, a fruit like the young + Pumpion."--_Wood's New England Prospect_, 1634, Prince Society ed., + p. 76. "_Askutasquash_, their Vine aples, which the _English_ from + them call _Squashes_, about the bignesse of Apples, of severall + colours, a sweet, light, wholesome refreshing."--_Roger Williams, + Key_, 1643, Narragansett Club ed., p. 125. + +129. _Courges_, the pumpkin, _Cucurbita maxima_, indigenous to America. As + the pumpkin and likewise the squash were vegetables hitherto unknown + to Champlain, there was no French word by which he could accurately + identify them. The names given to them were such as he thought would + describe them to his countrymen more nearly than any others. Had he + been a botanist, he would probably have given them new names. + +130. _Petum_. Tobacco, _Nicotiana rustica_, sometimes called wild tobacco. + It was a smaller and more hardy species than the _Nicotiana tabacum_, + now cultivated in warmer climates, but had the same qualities though + inferior in strength and aroma. It was found in cultivation by the + Indians all along our coast and in Canada. Cartier observed it growing + in Canada in 1535. Of it he says: "There groweth also a certain kind + of herbe, whereof in Sommer they make a great prouision for all the + yeere, making great account of it, and onely men vse of it, and first + they cause it to be dried in the Sunne, then weare it about their + neckes wrapped in a little beasts skinne made like a little bagge, + with a hollow peece of stone or wood like a pipe; then when they + please they make pouder of it, and then put it in one of the ends of + the said Cornet or pipe, and laying a cole of fire vpon it, at the + other ende sucke so long, that they fill their bodies full of smoke, + till that it commeth out of their mouth and nostrils, euen as out of + the Tonnell of a chimney. They say that this doth keepe them warme and + in health: they neuer goe without some of it about them. We ourselues + haue tryed the same smoke, and hauing put it in our mouthes, it seemed + almost as hot as Pepper."--_Jacques Cartier, 2 Voyage_, 1535; + _Hakluyt_, London, ed. 1810, Vol. III. p. 276. + + We may here remark that the esculents found in cultivation at Saco, + beans, squashes, pumpkins, and corn, as well as the tobacco, are all + American tropical or subtropical plants, and must have been + transmitted from tribe to tribe, from more southern climates. The + Indian traditions would seem to indicate this. "They have a + tradition," says Roger Williams, "that the Crow brought them at first + an _Indian_ Graine of Corne in one Eare, and an _Indian_ or _French_ + Beane in another, from the Great God _Kautantouwit's_ field in the + Southwest from whence they hold came all their Corne and Beanes."-- + _Key to the Language of America_, London, 1643, Narragansett Club ed., + p. 144. + + Seventy years before Champlain, Jacques Cartier had found nearly the + same vegetables cultivated by the Indians in the valley of the + St. Lawrence. He says: "They digge their grounds with certaine peeces + of wood, as bigge as halfe a sword, on which ground groweth their + corne, which they call Ossici; it is as bigge as our small peason.... + They haue also great store of Muske-milions. Pompions, Gourds, + Cucumbers, Peason, and Beanes of euery colour, yet differing from + ours."--_Hakluyt_, Vol. II. p. 276. For a full history of these + plants, the reader is referred to the History of Plants, a learned and + elaborate work now in press, by Charles Pickering, M.D. of Boston. + +131. The latitude of Wood Island at the mouth of the Saco, where they were + at anchor, is 43° 27' 23". + +132. The site of this Indian fortification was a rocky bluff on the western + side of the river, now owned by Mr. John Ward, where from time to time + Indian relics have been found. The island at the mouth of the river, + which Champlain speaks of as a suitable location for a fortress, is + Ram Island, and is low and rocky, and about a hundred and fifty yards + in length. + +133. For Sunday read Tuesday.--_Vide Shurtless's Calendar_. + +134. This landing was probably near Wells Neck, and the meadows which they + saw were the salt marshes of Wells. + +135. The Red-wing Blackbird, _Ageloeus phoeniceus_, of lustrous black, with + the bend of the wing red. They are still abundant in the same + locality, and indeed across the whole continent to the Pacific + Ocean.--_Vide Cones's Key_, Boston, 1872, p. 156; _Baird's Report_, + Washington, 1858, Part II. p. 526. + +136. _Le Port aux Isles_. This Island Harbor is the present Cape Porpoise + Harbor. + +137. This harbor is Goose Fair Bay, from one to two miles north-east of + Cape Porpoise, in the middle of which are two large ledges, "the + dangerous reefs" to which Champlain refers. + +138. This was the common red currant of the gardens, _Ribes rubrum_, which + is a native of America. The fetid currant, _Ribes prostratum_, is also + indigenous to this country. It has a pale red fruit, which gives forth + a very disagreeable odor. Josselyn refers to the currant both in his + Voyages and in his Rarities. Tuckerman found it growing wild in the + White Mountains. + +139. The passenger pigeon, _Ectopistes migratorius_, formerly numerous in + New England. Commonly known as the wild pigeon. Wood says they fly in + flocks of millions of millions.--_New England Prospect_, 1634; Prince + Society ed., p. 31. + +140. Champlain's latitude is less inaccurate than usual. It is not possible + to determine the exact point at which he took it. But the latitude of + Cape Porpoise, according to the Coast Survey Charts, is 43° 21' 43". + +141. Cape Anne. + +142. The point at which Champlain first saw Cape Anne, and "isles assez + hautes," the Isles of Shoals, was east of Little Boar's Head, and + three miles from the shore. Nine years afterward, Captain John Smith + visited these islands, and denominated them on his map of New England + Smith's Isles. They began at a very early date to be called the Isles + of Shoals. "Smith's Isles are a heape together, none neere them, + against Accominticus."--_Smith's Description of New England_. Rouge's + map, 1778, has Isles of Shoals, _ou des Ecoles_. For a full + description and history of these islands, the reader is referred to + "The Isles of Shoals," by John S. Jenness, New York, 1875. + +143. Champlain has not been felicitous in his description of this bay. He + probably means to say that from the point where he then was, off + Little Boar's Head, to the point where it extends farthest into the + land, or to the west, it appeared to be about twelve miles, and that + the depth of the bay appeared to be six miles, and eight at the point + of greatest depth. As he did not explore the bay, it is obvious that + he intended to speak of it only as measured by the eye. No name has + been assigned to this expanse of water on our maps. It washes the + coast of Hampton, Salisbury, Newburyport, Ipswich, and Annisquam. It + might well be called Merrimac Bay, aster the name of the important + river that empties its waters into it, midway between its northern and + southern extremities. + +144. It is to be observed that, starting from Cape Porpoise Harbor on the + morning of the 15th of July, they sailed twelve leagues before the + sail of the night commenced. This would bring them, allowing for the + sinuosities of the shore, to a point between Little Boar's Head and + the Isles of Shoals. In this distance, they had passed the sandy + shores of Wells Beach and York Beach in Maine, and Foss's Beach and + Rye Beach in New Hampshire, and still saw the white Sands of Hampton + and Salisbury Beaches stretching far into the bay on their right. The + excellent harbor of Portsmouth, land-locked by numerous islands, had + been passed unobserved. A sail of eighteen nautical miles brought them + to their anchorage at the extreme point of Cape Anne. + +145. Straitsmouth, Thatcher, and Milk island. They were named by Captain + John Smith the "Three Turks' Heads," in memory of the three Turks' + heads cut off by him at the siege of Caniza, by which he acquired from + Sigismundus, prince of Transylvania, their effigies in his shield for + his arms.--_The true Travels, Adventures, and Observations of Captaine + John Smith_, London, 1629. + +146. What Champlain here calls "le Cap aux Isles," Island Cape, is Cape + Anne, called Cape Tragabigzanda by Captain John Smith, the name of his + mistress, to whom he was given when a prisoner among the Turks. The + name was changed by Prince Charles, afterward Charles I., to Cape + Anne, in honor of his mother, who was Anne of Denmark.--_Vide + Description of New England_ by Capt. John Smith, London, 1616. + +147. This was the bay west of a line drawn from Little Boar's Head to Cape + Anne, which may well be called Merrimac Bay. + +148. Massachusetts Bay. + +149. It is interesting to observe the agreement of the sign-writing of this + savage on the point of Cape Anne with the statement of the historian + Gookin, who in 1656 was superintendent of Indian affairs in + Massachusetts, and who wrote in 1674. He says: "Their chief sachem + held dominion over many other petty governours; as those of + Weechagaskas, Neponsitt, Punkapaog, Nonantam, Nashaway, and some of + the Nipmuck people, as far as Pokomtacuke, as the old men of + Massachusetts affirmed." Here we have the six tribes, represented by + the pebbles, recorded seventy years later as a tradition handed down + by the old men of the tribe. Champlain remarks further on, "I observed + in the bay all that the savages had described to me at Island Cape." + +150. This was the Merrimac with its shoals at the mouth, which they had + passed without observing, having sailed from the offing near Little + Boar's Head directly to the head of Cape Anne, during the darkness of + the previous night. + +151. The latitude of the Straitsmouth Island Light on the extreme point of + Cape Anne is 42° 39' 43". A little east of it, where they probably + anchored, there are now sixteen fathoms of water. + +152. Emmerson's Point, forming the eastern extremity of Cape Anne, twenty + or twenty-five feet high, fringed with a wall of bare rocks on the + sea. + +153. Thatcher's Island, near the point just mentioned. It is nearly half a + mile long and three hundred and fifty yards wide, and about fifty feet + high. + +154. It is not possible to determine with absolute certainty the place of + this anchorage. But as Champlain describes, at the end of this + chapter, what must have been Charles River coming from the country of + the Iroquois or the west, most likely as seen from his anchorage, + there can be little doubt that he anchored in Boston Harbor, near the + western limit of Noddle's Island, now known as East Boston. + +155. The fishermen and fur-traders had visited these coasts from a very + early period.--_Vide antea_, note 18. From them they obtained the axe, + a most important implement in their rude mode of life, and it was + occasionally found in use among tribes far in the interior. + + _La Cadie_. Carelessness or indifference in regard to the orthography + of names was general in the time of Champlain. The volumes written in + the vain attempt to settle the proper method of spelling the name of + Shakespeare, are the fruit of this indifference. La Cadie did not + escape this treatment. Champlain writes it Arcadie, Accadie, La Cadie, + Acadie, and L'Acadie; while Lescarbot uniformly, as far as we have + observed, La Cadie. We have also seen it written L'Arcadie and + L'Accadie, and in some, if not in all the preceding forms, with a + Latin termination in _ia_. It is deemed important to secure + uniformity, and to follow the French form in the translation of a + French work rather than the Latin. In this work, it is rendered LA + CADIE in all cases except in quotations. The history of the name + favors this form rather than any other. The commission or charter + given to De Monts by Henry IV. in 1603, a state paper or legal + document, drawn, we may suppose, with more than usual care, has La + Cadie, and repeats it four times without variation. It is a name of + Indian origin, as may be inferred by its appearing in composition in + such words as Passamacadie, Subenacadie, and Tracadie, plainly derived + from the language spoken by the Souriquois and Etechemins. Fifty-five + years before it was introduced into De Monts's commission, it appeared + written _Larcadia_ in Gastaldo's map of "Terra Nova del Bacalaos," in + the Italian translation of Ptolemy's Geography, by Pietro Andrea + Mattiolo, printed at Venice in 1548. The colophon bears date October, + 1547. This rare work is in the possession of Henry C. Murphy, LL.D., + to whom we are indebted for a very beautiful copy of the map. It + appeared again in 1561 on the map of Ruscelli, which was borrowed, as + well as the whole map, from the above work.--_Vide Ruscelli's map in + Dr. Kohl's Documentary History of Maine_, Maine Hist. Soc., Portland, + 1869, p. 233. On this map, Larcadia stands on the coast of Maine, in + the midst of the vast territory included in De Monts's grant, between + the degrees of forty and forty-six north latitude. It will be + observed, if we take away the Latin termination, that the + pronunciation of this word as it first appeared in 1547, would not + differ in _sound_ from La Cadie. It seems, therefore, very clear that + the name of the territory stretching along the coast of Maine, we know + not how far north or south, as it was caught from the lips of the + natives at some time anterior 1547, was best represented by La Cadie, + as pronounced by the French. Whether De Monts had obtained the name of + his American domain from those who had recently visited the coast and + had caught its sound from the natives, or whether he had taken it from + this ancient map, we must remain uninformed. Several writers have + ventured to interpret the word, and give us its original meaning. The + following definitions have been offered: 1. The land of dogs; 2. Our + village; 3. The fish called pollock; 4. Place; 5. Abundance. We do not + undertake to decide between the disagreeing doctors. But it is obvious + to remark that a rich field lies open ready for a noble harvest for + any young scholar who has a genius for philology, and who is prepared + to make a life work of the study and elucidation of the original + languages of North America. The laurels in this field are still to be + gathered. + +156. The islands in Boston Bay. + +157. This attempt to land was in Marshfield near the mouth of South River. + Not succeeding, they sailed forward a league, and anchored at Brant + Point, which they named the Cape of St. Louis. + +158. This purslane, _Portulaca oleracea_, still grows vigorously among the + Indian corn in New England, and is regarded with no more interest now + than in 1605. It is a tropical plant, and was introduced by the + Indians probably by accident with the seeds of tobacco or other + plants. + +159. Here at the end of the chapter Champlain seems to be reminded that he + had omitted to mention the river of which he had learned, and had + probably seen in the bay. This was Charles River. From the western + side of Noddle's Island, or East Boston, where they were probably at + anchor, it appeared at its confluence with the Mystic River to come + from the west, or the country of the Iroquois. By reference to + Champlain's large map of 1612, this river will be clearly identified + as Charles River, in connection with Boston Bay and its numerous + islands. On that map it is represented as a long river flowing from + the west. This description of the river by Champlain was probably from + personal observation. Had he obtained his information from the + Indians, they would not have told him that it was broad or that it + came from the west, for such are not the facts; but they would have + represented to him that it was small, winding in its course, and that + it came from the south. We infer, therefore, that he not only saw it + himself, but probably from the deck of the little French barque, as it + was riding at anchor in our harbor near East Boston, where Charles + River, augmented by the tide, flows into the harbor from the west, in + a strong, broad, deep current. They named it in honor of Pierre du + Guast, Sieur de Monts, the commander of this expedition. Champlain + writes the name "du Gas;" De Laet has "de Gua;" while Charlevoix + writes "du Guast." This latter orthography generally prevails. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +CONTINUATION OF THE DISCOVERIES ALONG THE COAST OF THE ALMOUCHIQUOIS, AND +WHAT WE OBSERVED IN DETAIL. + + +The next day we doubled Cap St. Louis, [160] so named by Sieur de Monts, a +land rather low, and in latitude 42° 45'. [161] The same day we sailed two +leagues along a sandy coast, as we passed along which we saw a great many +cabins and gardens. The wind being contrary, we entered a little bay to +await a time favorable for proceeding. There came to us two or three +canoes, which had just been fishing for cod and other fish, which are found +there in large numbers. These they catch with hooks made of a piece of +wood, to which they attach a bone in the shape of a spear, and fasten it +very securely. The whole has a fang-shape, and the line attached to it is +made out of the bark of a tree. They gave me one of their hooks, which I +took as a curiosity. In it the bone was fastened on by hemp, like that in +France, as it seemed to me, and they told me that they gathered this plant +without being obliged to cultivate it; and indicated that it grew to the +height of four or five feet. [162] This canoe went back on shore to give +notice to their fellow inhabitants, who caused columns of smoke to arise on +our account. We saw eighteen or twenty savages, who came to the shore and +began to dance. Our canoe landed in order to give them some bagatelles, at +which they were greatly pleased. Some of them came to us and begged us to +go to their river. We weighed anchor to do so, but were unable to enter on +account of the small amount of water, it being low tide, and were +accordingly obliged to anchor at the mouth. I went ashore, where I saw many +others, who received us very cordially. I made also an examination of the +river, but saw only an arm of water extending a short distance inland, +where the land is only in part cleared up. Running into this is merely a +brook not deep enough for boats except at full tide. The circuit of the bay +is about a league. On one side of the entrance to this bay there is a point +which is almost an island, covered with wood, principally pines, and +adjoins sand-banks, which are very extensive. On the other side, the land +is high. There are two islets in this bay, which are not seen until one +has entered, and around which it is almost entirely dry at low tide. This +place is very conspicuous from the sea, for the coast is very low, +excepting the cape at the entrance to the bay. We named it the Port du Cap +St. Louis, [163] distant two leagues from the above cape, and ten from the +Island Cape. It is in about the same latitude as Cap St. Louis. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +PORT ST. LOUIS. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. Indicates the place where vessels lie. +_B_. The channel. +_C_. Two islands. [Note: Clark's Island is now the sole representative of + the two figured by Champlain in 1605. The action of the waves has + either united the two, or swept one of them away. It was named after + Clark, the master's mate of the "May Flower," who was the first to + step on shore, when the party of Pilgrims, sent out from Cape Cod + Harbor to Select a habitation, landed on this island, and passed the + night of the 9th of December, O. S. 1620. _Vide_ Morton's Memorial, + 1669, Plymouth Ed. 1826. p. 35: Young's Chronicles, p. 160; Bradford's + His. Plym. Plantation, p. 87. This delineation removes all doubt as to + the missing island in Plymouth Harbor, and shows the incorrectness of + the theory as to its being Saquish Head, suggested in a note in + Young's Chronicles, p. 64. _Vide_ also Mourt's Relation, Dexter's ed., + note 197.] +_D_. Sandy downs. [Note: Saquish Neck] +_E_. Shoals. +_F_. Cabins where the savages till the ground. +_G_. Place where we beached our barque. +_H_. Land having the appearance of an island, covered with wood and + adjoining the sandy downs. [Note: Saquish Head, which seems to have + been somewhat changed since the time of Champlain. Compare Coast + Survey Chart of Plymouth Harbor, 1857.] +_I_. A high promontory which may be seen four or five leagues at + sea. [Note: Manomet Bluff.] + + * * * * * + +On the 19th of the month, we set out from this place. Coasting along in a +southerly direction, we sailed four or five leagues, and passed near a rock +on a level with the surface of the water. As we continued our course, we +saw some land which seemed to us to be islands, but as we came nearer we +found it to be the main land, lying to the north-north-west of us, and that +it was the cape of a large bay, [164] containing more than eighteen or +nineteen leagues in circuit, into which we had run so far that we had to +wear off on the other tack in order to double the cape which we had +seen. The latter we named Cap Blanc, [165] since it contained sands and +downs which had a white appearance. A favorable wind was of great +assistance to us here, for otherwise we should have been in danger of being +driven upon the coast. This bay is very safe, provided the land be not +approached nearer than a good league, there being no islands nor rocks +except that just mentioned, which is near a river that extends some +distance inland, which we named St. Suzanne du Cap Blanc, [166] whence +across to Cap St. Louis the distance is ten leagues. Cap Blanc is a point +of sand, which bends around towards the south some six leagues. This coast +is rather high, and consists of sand, which is very conspicuous as one +comes from the Sea. At a distance of some fifteen or eighteen leagues from +land, the depth of the water is thirty, forty, and fifty fathoms, but only +ten on nearing the shore, which is unobstructed. There is a large extent +of open country along the shore before reaching the woods, which are very +attractive and beautiful. We anchored off the coast, and saw some savages, +towards whom four of our company proceeded. Making their way upon a +sand-bank, they observed something like a bay, and cabins bordering it on +all sides. When they were about a league and a half from us, there came to +them a savage dancing all over, as they expressed it. He had come down from +the high shore, but turned about shortly after to inform his fellow +inhabitants of our arrival. + +The next day, the 20th of the month, we went to the place which our men had +seen, and which we found a very dangerous harbor in consequence of the +shoals and banks, where we saw breakers in all directions. It was almost +low tide when we entered, and there were only four feet of water in the +northern passage; at high tide, there are two fathoms. After we had +entered, we found the place very spacious, being perhaps three or four +leagues in circuit, entirely surrounded by little houses, around each one +of which there was as much land as the occupant needed for his support. A +small river enters here, which is very pretty, and in which at low tide +there are some three and a half feet of water. There are also two or three +brooks bordered by meadows. It would be a very fine place, if the harbor +were good. I took the altitude, and found the latitude 42°, and the +deflection of the magnetic needle 18° 40'. Many savages, men and women, +visited us, and ran up on all sides dancing. We named this place Port de +Mallebarre. [167] + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +MALLEBARRE. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. The two entrances to the harbor. +_B_. Sandy downs where the savages killed a sailor belonging to the barque + of Sieur de Monts. +_C_. Places in the harbor where the barque of Sieur de Monts was. +_D_. Spring on the shore of the harbor. +_E_. A river flowing into the harbor. +_F_. A brook. +_G_. A small river where quantities of fish are caught. +_H_. Sandy downs with low shrubs and many vines. +_I_. Island at the point of the downs. +_L_. Houses and dwelling-places of the savages that till the land. +_M_. Shoals and sand-banks at the entrance and inside of the harbor. +_O_. Sandy downs. +_P_. Sea-coast, +_q_. Barque of Sieur de Poutrincourt when he visited the place two years + after Sieur de Monts. +_R_. Landing of the party of Sieur de Poutrincourt. + +NOTES. A comparison of this map with the Coast Survey Charts will show very +great changes in this harbor since the days of Champlain. Not only has the +mouth of the bay receded towards the south, but this recession appears to +have left entirely dry much of the area which was flooded in 1605. Under +reference _q_, on the above map, it is intimated that De Poutrincourt's +visit was two years after that of De Monts. It was more than one, and was +the second year after, but not, strictly speaking, "two years after." + + * * * * * + +The next day, the 21st of the month, Sieur de Monts determined to go and +see their habitation. Nine or ten of us accompanied him with our arms; the +rest remained to guard the barque. We went about a league along the coast. +Before reaching their cabins, we entered a field planted with Indian corn +in the manner before described. The corn was in flower, and five and a half +feet high. There was some less advanced, which they plant later. We saw +many Brazilian beans, and many squashes of various sizes, very good for +eating; some tobacco, and roots which they cultivate, the latter having the +taste of an artichoke. The woods are filled with oaks, nut-trees, and +beautiful cypresses, [168] which are of a reddish color and have a very +pleasant odor. There were also several fields entirely uncultivated, the +land being allowed to remain fallow. When they wish to plant it, they set +fire to the weeds, and then work it over with their wooden spades. Their +cabins are round, and covered with heavy thatch made of reeds. In the roof +there is an opening of about a foot and a half, whence the smoke from the +fire passes out. We asked them if they had their permanent abode in this +place, and whether there was much snow. But we were unable to ascertain +this fully from them, not understanding their language, although they made +an attempt to inform us by signs, by taking some sand in their hands. +Spreading it out over the ground, and indicating that it was of the color +of our collars, and that it reached the depth of a foot. Others made signs +that there was less, and gave us to understand also that the harbor never +froze; but we were unable to ascertain whether the snow lasted long. I +conclude, however, that this region is of moderate temperature, and the +winter not severe. While we were there, there was a north-cast storm, which +lasted four days; the sky being so overcast that the sun hardly shone at +all. It was very cold, and we were obliged to put on our great-coats, which +we had entirely left off. Yet I think the cold was accidental, as it is +often experienced elsewhere out of season. + +On the 23d of July, four or five seamen having gone on shore with some +kettles to get fresh water, which was to be found in one of the sand-banks +a short distance from our barque, some of the savages, coveting them, +watched the time when our men went to the spring, and then seized one out +of the hands of a sailor, who was the first to dip, and who had no +weapons. One of his companions, starting to run after him, soon returned, +as he could not catch him, since he ran much faster than himself. The other +savages, of whom there were a large number, seeing our sailors running to +our barque, and at the same time shouting to us to fire at them, took to +flight. At the time there were some of them in our barque, who threw +themselves into the sea, only one of whom we were able to seize. Those on +the land who had taken to flight, seeing them swimming, returned straight +to the sailor from whom they had taken away the kettle, hurled several +arrows at him from behind, and brought him down. Seeing this, they ran at +once to him, and despatched him with their knives. Meanwhile, haste was +made to go on shore, and muskets were fired from our barque: mine, bursting +in my hands, came near killing me. The savages, hearing this discharge of +fire-arms, took to flight, and with redoubled speed when they saw that we +had landed, for they were afraid when they saw us running after them. There +was no likelihood of our catching them, for they are as swift as horses. +We brought in the murdered man, and he was buried some hours later. +Meanwhile, we kept the prisoner bound by the feet and hands on board of our +barque, fearing that he might escape. But Sieur de Monts resolved to let +him go, being persuaded that he was not to blame, and that he had no +previous knowledge of what had transpired, as also those who, at the time, +were in and about our barque. Some hours later there came some savages to +us, to excuse themselves, indicating by signs and demonstrations that it +was not they who had committed this malicious act, but others farther off +in the interior. We did not wish to harm them, although it was in our power +to avenge ourselves. + +All these savages from the Island Cape wear neither robes nor furs, except +very rarely: moreover, their robes are made of grasses and hemp, scarcely +covering the body, and coming down only to their thighs. They have only the +sexual parts concealed with a small piece of leather; so likewise the +women, with whom it comes down a little lower behind than with the men, all +the rest of the body being naked. Whenever the women came to see us, they +wore robes which were open in front. The men cut off the hair on the top of +the head like those at the river Choüacoet. I saw, among other things, a +girl with her hair very neatly dressed, with a skin colored red, and +bordered on the upper part with little shell-beads. A part of her hair +hung down behind, the rest being braided in various ways. These people +paint the face red, black, and yellow. They have scarcely any beard, and +tear it out as fast as it grows. Their bodies are well-proportioned. I +cannot tell what government they have, but I think that in this respect +they resemble their neighbors, who have none at all. They know not how to +worship or pray; yet, like the other savages, they have some superstitions, +which I shall describe in their place. As for weapons, they have only +pikes, clubs, bows and arrows. It would seem from their appearance that +they have a good disposition, better than those of the north, but they are +all in fact of no great worth. Even a slight intercourse with them gives +you at once a knowledge of them. They are great thieves and, if they cannot +lay hold of any thing with their hands, they try to do so with their feet, +as we have oftentimes learned by experience. I am of opinion that, if they +had any thing to exchange with us, they would not give themselves to +thieving. They bartered away to us their bows, arrows, and quivers, for +pins and buttons; and if they had had any thing else better they would have +done the same with it. It is necessary to be on one's guard against this +people, and live in a state of distrust of them, yet without letting them +perceive it. They gave us a large quantity of tobacco, which they dry and +then reduce to powder. [169] When they eat Indian corn, they boil it in +earthen pots, which they make in a way different from ours. [170]. They +bray it also in wooden mortars and reduce it to flour, of which they then +make cakes, like the Indians of Peru. + +In this place and along the whole coast from Quinibequy, there are a great +many _siguenocs_, [171] which is a fish with a shell on its back like the +tortoise, yet different, there being in the middle a row of little +prickles, of the color of a dead leaf, like the rest of the fish. At the +end of this shell, there is another still smaller, bordered by very sharp +points. The length of the tail-varies according to their size. With the end +of it, these people point their arrows, and it contains also a row of +prickles like the large shell in which are the eyes. There are eight small +feet like those of the crab, and two behind longer and flatter, which they +use in swimming. There are also in front two other very small ones with +which they eat. When walking, all the feet are concealed excepting the two +hindermost which are slightly visible. Under the small shell there are +membranes which swell up, and beat like the throat of a frog, and rest upon +each other like the folds of a waistcoat. The largest specimen of this fish +that I saw was a foot broad, and a foot and a half long. + +We saw also a sea-bird [172] with a black beak, the upper part slightly +aquiline, four inches long and in the form of a lancet; namely, the lower +part representing the handle and the upper the blade, which is thin, sharp +on both sides, and shorter by a third than the other, which circumference +is a matter of astonishment to many persons, who cannot comprehend how it +is possible for this bird to eat with such a beak. It is of the size of a +pigeon, the wings being very long in proportion to the body, the tail +short, as also the legs, which are red; the feet being small and flat. The +plumage on the upper part is gray-brown, and on the under part pure white. +They go always in flocks along the sea-shore, like the pigeons with us. + +The savages, along all these coasts where we have been, say that other +birds, which are very large, come along when their corn is ripe. They +imitated for us their cry, which resembles that of the turkey. They showed +us their feathers in several places, with which they feather their arrows, +and which they put on their heads for decoration; and also a kind of hair +which they have under the throat like those we have in France, and they say +that a red crest falls over upon the beak. According to their description, +they are as large as a bustard, which is a kind of goose, having the neck +longer and twice as large as those with us. All these indications led us to +conclude that they were turkeys. [173] We should have been very glad to +see some of these birds, as well as their feathers, for the sake of greater +certainty. Before seeing their feathers, and the little bunch of hair which +they have under the throat, and hearing their cry imitated, I should have +thought that they were certain birds like turkeys, which are found in some +places in Peru, along the sea-shore, eating carrion and other dead things +like crows. But these are not so large; nor do they have so long a bill, or +a cry like that of real turkeys; nor are they good to eat like those which +the Indians say come in flocks in summer, and at the beginning of winter go +away to warmer countries, their natural dwelling-place. + +ENDNOTES: + +160. It will be observed that, after doubling this cape, they sailed two + leagues, and then entered Plymouth Harbor, and consequently this cape + must have been what is now known as Brant Point. + +161. The latitude is 42° 5'. + +162. This was plainly our Indian hemp, _Asclepias incarnata_. "The fibres + of the bark are strong, and capable of being wrought into a fine soft + thread; but it is very difficult to separate the bark from the stalk. + It is said to have been used by the Indians for bow-strings."--_Vide + Cutler in Memoirs of the American Academy_, Vol. I. p. 424. It is the + Swamp Milkweed of Gray, and grows in wet grounds. One variety is + common in New England. The Pilgrims found at Plymouth "an excellent + strong kind of Flaxe and Hempe"--_Vide Mourt's Relation_, Dexter's + ed. p. 62. + +163. _Port du Cap St. Louis_. From the plain, the map in his edition of + 1613, drawing of this Harbor left by Champlain, and also that of the + edition of 1632, it is plain that the "Port du Cap St. Louis" is + Plymouth Harbor, where anchored the "Mayflower" a little more than + fifteen years later than this, freighted with the first permanent + English colony established in New England, commonly known as the + Pilgrims. The Indian name of the harbor, according to Captain John + Smith, who visited it in 1614. was Accomack. He gave it, by direction + of Prince Charles, the name of Plymouth. More recent investigations + point to this harbor as the one visited by Martin Pring in 1603.-- + _Vide Paper by the Rev Benj. F. De Costa, before the New England + His. Gen. Society_, Nov. 7, 1877, New England His. and Gen. Register, + Vol. XXXII. p. 79. + + The interview of the French with the natives was brief, but courteous + and friendly on both sides. The English visits were interrupted by + more or less hostility. "When Pring was about ready to leave, the + Indians became hostile and set the woods on fire, and he saw it burn + 'for a mile space.'"--_De Costa_. A skirmish of some seriousness + occurred with Smith's party. "After much kindnesse upon a small + occasion, wee fought also with fortie or fiftie of those: though some + were hurt, and some slaine, yet within an hour after they became + friends."--_Smith's New England_, Boston, ed. 1865, p. 45. + +164. Cape Cod Bay. + +165. They named it "le Cap Blanc," the White Cape, from its white + appearance, while Bartholomew Gosnold, three years before, had named + it Cape Cod from the multitude of codfish near its shores. Captain + John Smith called it Cape James. All the early navigators who passed + along our Atlantic coast seem to have seen the headland of Cape + Cod. It is well defined on Juan de la Cosa's map of 1500, although no + name is given to it. On Ribero's map of 1529 it is called _C. de + arenas_. On the map of Nic. Vallard de Dieppe of 1543, it is called + _C. de Croix_. + +166. Wellfleet Harbor. It may be observed that a little farther back + Champlain says that, having sailed along in a southerly direction four + or five leagues, they were at a place where there was a "rock on a + level with the surface of the water," and that they saw lying + north-north-west of them Cap Blanc, that is, Cape Cod; he now says + that the "rock" is near a river, which they named St. Suzanne du Cap + Blanc, and that from it to Cap St. Louis the distance is ten + leagues. Now, as the distance across to Brant Point, or Cap St. Louis, + from Wellfleet Harbor, is ten leagues, and as Cap Blanc or Cape Cod is + north-northwest of it, it is plain that Wellfleet Harbor or Herring + River, which flows into it, was the river which they named St. Suzanne + du Cap Blanc, and that the "rock on a level with the water" was one of + the several to be found near the entrance of Wellfleet Bay. It may + have been the noted Bay Rock or Blue Rock. + +167. _Port de Mallebarre_, Nauset Harbor, in latitude 41° 48'. By comparing + Champlain's map of the harbor, it will be seen that important changes + have taken place since 1605. The entrance has receded a mile or more + towards the south, and this has apparently changed its interior + channel, and the whole form of the bay. The name itself has drifted + away with the sands, and feebly clings to the extremity of Monomoy + Point at the heel of the Cape. + +168. Not strictly a cypress, but rather a juniper, the Savin, or red cedar, + _Juniparus Virginiana_, a tree of exclusively American origin; and + consequently it could not be truly characterized by any name then + known to Champlain. + +169. The method of preparing tobacco here for smoking was probably not + different from that of the Indian tribes in Canada. Among the Huron + antiquities in the Museum at the University Laval are pipes which were + found already filled with tobacco, so prepared as to resemble our + fine-cut tobacco.--_Vide Laverdière in loco_. + +170. The following description of the Indian pottery, and the method of its + manufacture by their women, as quoted by Laverdière from Sagard's + History of Canada, who wrote in 1636, will be interesting to the + antiquary, and will illustrate what Champlain means by "a way + different from ours:"-- + + "They are skilful in making good earthen pots, which they harden very + well on the hearth, and which are so strong that they do not, like our + own, break over the fire when having no water in them. But they cannot + sustain dampness nor cold water so long as our own, since they become + brittle and break at the least shock given them; otherwise they last + very well. The savages make them by taking some earth of the right + kind, which they clean and knead well in their hands, mixing with it, + on what principle I know not, a small quantity of grease. Then making + the mass into the shape of a ball, they make an indentation in the + middle of it with the fist, which they make continually larger by + striking repeatedly on the outside with a little wooden paddle as much + as is necessary to complete it. These vessels are of different sizes, + without feet or handles, completely round like a ball, excepting the + mouth, which projects a little." + +171. This crustacean, _Limulus polyphemus_, is still seen on the strands of + New England. They are found in great abundance in more southern + waters: on the shores of Long Island and New Jersey, they are + collected in boat-loads and made useful for fertilizing purposes. + Champlain has left a drawing of it on his large map. It is vulgarly + known as the king-crab, or horse-foot; to the latter it bears a + striking similarity. This very accurate description of Champlain was + copied by De Laet into his elaborate work "Novus Orbis," published in + 1633, accompanied by an excellent wood-engraving. This species is + peculiar to our Atlantic waters, and naturally at that time attracted + the attention of Europeans, who had not seen it before. + +172. The Black skimmer or Cut-water, _Rhynchops nigra_. It appears to be + distinct from, but closely related to, the Terns. This bird is here + described with general accuracy. According to Dr. Coues, it belongs + more particularly to the South Atlantic and Gulf States, where it is + very abundant; it is frequent in the Middle States, and only + occasionally seen in New England. The wings are exceedingly long; they + fly in close flocks, moving simultaneously. They seem to feed as they + skim low over the water, the under-mandible grazing or cutting the + surface, and thus taking in their food.--_Vide Coues's Key to North + American Birds_, Boston, 1872, p. 324. + + Whether Champlain saw this bird as a "stray" on the shores of Cape + Cod, or whether it has since ceased to come in large numbers as far + north as formerly, offers an interesting inquiry for the + ornithologists. Specimens may be seen in the Museum of the Boston + Society of Natural History. + +173. Champlain was clearly correct in his conclusion. The wild Turkey, + _Meleagris gallopavo_, was not uncommon in New England at that + period. Wood and Josselyn and Higginson, all speak of it fully:-- + + "Of these, sometimes there will be forty, threescore and a hundred of + a flocke; sometimes more, and sometimes lesse; their feeding is + Acornes, Hawes, and Berries; some of them get a haunt to frequent our + _English_ corne: In winter, when the snow covers the ground, they + resort to the Sea shore to look for Shrimps, and such small Fishes at + low tides. Such as love Turkie hunting, most follow it in winter after + a new-falne Snow, when hee may followe them by their tracts; some have + killed ten or a dozen in half a day; if they can be found towards an + evening and watched where they peirch, if one come about ten or eleven + of the clock, he may shoote as often as he will, they will sit, + unlesse they be slenderly wounded. These Turkies remaine all the yeare + long, the price of a good Turkey cocke is foure shillings; and he is + well worth it for he may be in weight forty pound: a Hen, two + shillings."--_Wood's New England Prospect_, 1634, Prince Society ed., + Boston, p. 32. + + "The _Turkie_, who is blacker than ours; I haue heard several credible + persons affirm, they haue seen _Turkie Cocks_ that have weighed forty, + yea sixty pound; but out of my personal experimental knowledge I can + assure you, that I haue eaten my share of a _Turkie Cock_, that when + he was pull'd and garbidg'd, weighed thirty [9] pound; and I haue also + seen threescore broods of young _Turkies_ on the side of a marsh, + sunning themselves in a morning betimes, but this was thirty years + since, the _English_ and the _Indians_ having now destroyed the breed, + so that 'tis very rare to meet with a wild _Turkie_ in the Woods: But + some of the _English_ bring up great store of the wild kind, which + remain about their Houses as tame as ours in _England_."--_New + England's Rarities_, by John Josselyn, Gent., London, 1672, + Tuckerman's ed., pp. 41, 42. + + "Here are likewise abundance of Turkies often killed in the Woods, + farre greater then our English Turkies, and exceeding fat, sweet, and + fleshy, for here they haue aboundance of feeding all the yeere long, + as Strawberriees, in Summer at places are full of them and all manner + of Berries and Fruits."--_New England Plantation_, by Francis + Higginson, London, 1630. _Vide_ also _Bradford's Hist. Plym. + Plantation_, 1646, Deane's ed., Boston, 1856. p. 105. + + It appears to be the opinion among recent ornithologists that the + species of turkey, thus early found in New England, was the _Meleagris + Americana_, long since extirpated, and not identical with our + domesticated bird. Our domestic turkey is supposed to have originated + in the West Indies or in Mexico, and to have been transplanted as + tamed to other parts of this continent, and to Europe, and named by + Linnaeus. _Meleagris gallopavo_.--_Vide Report on the Zoology of + Pacific Railroad Routes_, by Baird, Washington, 1858. Vol. IX. Part + II. pp. 613-618; _Coues's Key_, Boston, 1872, pp. 231, 232. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +RETURN FROM THE DISCOVERIES ALONG THE COAST OF THE ALMOUCHIQUOIS. + + +We had spent more than five weeks in going over three degrees of latitude, +and our voyage was limited to six, since we had not taken provisions for a +longer time. In consequence of fogs and storms, we had not been able to go +farther than Mallebarre, where we waited several days for fair weather, in +order to sail. Finding ourselves accordingly pressed by the scantiness of +provisions, Sieur de Monts determined to return to the Island of St. Croix, +in order to find another place more favorable for our settlement, as we had +not been able to do on any of the coasts which we had explored on this +voyage. + +Accordingly, on the 25th of July, we set out from this harbor, in order to +make observations elsewhere. In going out, we came near being lost on the +bar at the entrance, from the mistake of our pilots, Cramolet and +Champdoré, masters of the barque, who had imperfectly marked out the +entrance of the channel on the southern side, where we were to go. Having +escaped this danger, we headed north-east [174] for six leagues, until we +reached Cap Blanc, sailing on from there to Island Cape, a distance of +fifteen leagues, with the same wind. Then we headed east-north-east sixteen +leagues, as far as Choüacoet, where we saw the savage chief, Marchin, [175] +whom we had expected to see at the Lake Quinibequy. He had the reputation +of being one of the valiant ones of his people. He had a fine appearance: +all his motions were dignified, savage as he was. Sieur de Monts gave him +many presents, with which he was greatly pleased; and, in return, Marchin +gave him a young Etechemin boy, whom he had captured in war, and whom we +took away with us; and thus we set out, mutually good friends. We headed +north-east a quarter east for fifteen leagues, as far as Quinibequy, where +we arrived on the 29th of the month, and where we were expecting to find a +savage, named Sasinou, of whom I spoke before. Thinking that he would come, +we waited some time for him, in order to recover from him an Etechemin +young man and girl, whom he was holding as prisoners. While waiting, there +came to us a captain called Anassou, who trafficked a little in furs, and +with whom we made an alliance. He told us that there was a ship, ten +leagues off the harbor, which was engaged in fishing, and that those on her +had killed five savages of this river, under cover of friendship. From his +description of the men on the vessel, we concluded that they were English, +and we named the island where they were La Nef; [176] for, at a distance, +it had the appearance of a ship. Finding that the above-mentioned Sasinou +did not come, we headed east-south-east, [176-1/2] for twenty leagues, to +Isle Haute, where we anchored for the night. + +On the next day, the 1st of August, we sailed east some twenty leagues to +Cap Corneille, [177] where we spent the night. On the 2d of the month, we +sailed north-east seven leagues to the mouth of the river St. Croix, on the +western shore. Having anchored between the two first islands, [178] Sieur +de Monts embarked in a canoe, at a distance of six leagues from the +settlement of St. Croix, where we arrived the next day with our barque. We +found there Sieur des Antons of St. Malo, who had come in one of the +vessels of Sieur de Monts, to bring provisions and also other supplies for +those who were to winter in this country. + +ENDNOTES: + +174. Champlain is in error as to the longitude of Mallebarre, or Nauset + harbor, from which they took their departure on the 25th of July, + 1605. This port is about 38' east of Island Cape, or Cape Anne, and + about 16' east of the western point of Cap Blanc, or Cape Cod; and, to + reach their destination, they must have sailed north-west, and not + north-east, as he erroneously states. + +175. They had failed to meet him at the lake in the Kennebec; namely, + Merrymeeting Bay.--_Vide antea_, p. 60. + +176. The island which they thus named _La Nef_, the Ship, was Monhegan, + about twenty-five nautical miles east from the mouth of the Kennebec, + a mile and a third long, with an elevation at its highest point of a + hundred and forty feet above the level of the sea, and in latitude 43° + 45' 52". Champlain's conjecture as to the nationality of the ship was + correct. It was the "Archangel," commanded by the celebrated explorer, + Captain George Weymouth, who under the patronage of the Earl of + Southampton came to explore our Atlantic coast in the spring of 1605, + for the purpose of selecting a site for an English colony. He anchored + near Monhegan on the 28th of May, N. S.; and, after spending nearly a + month in reconnoitring the islands and mainland in the vicinity, and + capturing five of the natives, he took his departure for England on + the 26th of June. On the 5th of July, just 9 days after Weymouth left + the coast, De Monts and Champlain entered with their little barque the + mouth of the Kennebec. They do not appear to have seen at that time + any of the natives at or about the mouth of the river; and it is not + unlikely that, on account of the seizure and, as they supposed, the + murder of their comrades by Weymouth, they had retired farther up the + river for greater safety. On the return, however, of the French from + Cape Cod, on the 29th of July, Anassou gave them, as stated in the + text, a friendly reception, and related the story of the seizure of + his friends. + + To prevent the interference of other nations, it was the policy of + Weymouth and his patron not to disclose the locality of the region he + had explored; and consequently Rosier, the narrator of the voyage, so + skilfully withheld whatever might clearly identify the place, and + couched his descriptions in such indefinite language, that there has + been and is now a great diversity of opinion on the subject among + local historians. It was the opinion of the Rev. Thomas Prince that + Weymouth explored the Kennebec, or Sagadahoc, and with him coincide + Mr. John McKeen and the Rev. Dr. Ballard, of Brunswick. The + Rev. Dr. Belknap, after satisfactory examinations, decided that it was + the Penobscot; and he is followed by Mr. William Willis, late + President of the Maine Historical Society. Mr. George Prince, of Bath, + has published an elaborate paper to prove that it was St. George's + River; and Mr. David Cushman, of Warren, coincides in this view. Other + writers, not entering into the discussion at length, accept one or + another of the theories above mentioned. It does not fall within the + purview of our present purpose to enter upon the discussion of this + subject. But the statement in the text, not referred to by any of the + above-mentioned writers, "that those on her had killed five savages + _of this river," que ceux de dedans avoient tué cinq sauuages d'icelle + rivière_, can hardly fail to have weight in the decision of this + interesting question. + + The chief Anassou reported that they were "killed," a natural + inference under the circumstances; but in fact they were carefully + concealed in the hold of the ship, and three of them, having been + transported to England and introduced into his family, imparted much + important information to Sir Ferdinando Gorges, whose distinguished + career was afterward so intimately connected with the progress of + American colonization. For the discussion touching the river explored + by Weymouth, _vide Prince's Annals_, 1736, _in loco; Belknap's + American Biography_, 1794, Vol. II., art. Weymouth; _Remarks on the + Voyage of George Waymouth_, by John McKeen, Col. Me. His. Society, + Vol. V. p. 309; _Comments on Waymouth's Voyage_, by William Willis, + idem, p. 344; _Voyage of Captain George Weymouth_, by George Prince, + Col. Me. His. Soc., Vol. VI. p. 293; _Weymouth's Voyage_, by David + Cushman, _idem_, p. 369; _George Weymouth and the Kennebec_, by the + Rev. Edward Ballard, D. D., Memorial Volume of the Popham Celebration, + Portland, 1863, p. 301. + +176-1/2. _We headed east south-east_. It is possible that, on leaving the + mouth of the Kennebec, they sailed for a short distance to the + south-east; but the general course was to the north-east. + +177. _Cap Corneille_, or Crow Cape, was apparently the point of land + advancing out between Machias and Little Machias Bays, including + perhaps Cross Island. De Monts and his party probably anchored and + passed the night in Machias Bay. The position of Cap Corneille may be + satisfactorily fixed by its distance and direction from the Grand + Manan, as seen on Champlain's map of 1612, to which the reader is + referred. + +178. This anchorage was between Campobello and Moose Island, on which is + situated the town of Eastport. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +THE DWELLING-PLACE ON THE ISLAND OF ST. CROIX TRANSFERRED TO PORT ROYAL, +AND THE REASON WHY. + + +Sieur De Monts determined to change his location, and make another +settlement, in order to avoid the severe cold and the bad winter which we +had had in the Island of St. Croix. As we had not, up to that time, found +any suitable harbor, and, in view of the short time we had for building +houses in which to establish ourselves, we fitted out two barques, and +loaded them with the frame-work taken from the houses of St. Croix, in +order to transport it to Port Royal, twenty-five leagues distant, where we +thought the climate was much more temperate and agreeable. Pont Gravé and I +set out for that place; and, having arrived, we looked for a site favorable +for our residence, under shelter from the north-west wind, which we +dreaded, having been very much harassed by it. + +After searching carefully in all directions, we found no place more +suitable and better situated than one slightly elevated, about which there +are some marshes and good springs of water. This place is opposite the +island at the mouth of the river Equille. [179] To the north of us about a +league, there is a range of mountains, [180] extending nearly ten leagues +in a north-east and south-west direction. The whole country is filled with +thick forests, as I mentioned above, except at a point a league and a half +up the river, where there are some oaks, although scattering, and many wild +vines, which one could easily remove and put the soil under cultivation, +notwithstanding it is light and sandy. We had almost resolved to build +there; but the consideration that we should have been too far up the harbor +and river led us to change our mind. + +Recognizing accordingly the site of our habitation as a good one, we began +to clear up the ground, which was full of trees, and to erect houses as +soon as possible. Each one was busy in this work. After every thing had +been arranged, and the majority of the dwellings built, Sieur de Monts +determined to return to France, in order to petition his Majesty to grant +him all that might be necessary for his undertaking. He had desired to +leave Sieur d'Orville to command in this place in his absence. But the +climatic malady, _mal de la terre_, with which he was afflicted would not +allow him to gratify the wish of Sieur de Monts. On this account, a +conference was held with Pont Gravé on the subject, to whom this charge was +offered, which he was happy to accept; and he finished what little of the +habitation remained to be built. I, at the same time, hoping to have an +opportunity to make some new explorations towards Florida, determined to +stay there also, of which Sieur de Monts approved. + +ENDNOTES: + +179. In the original, Champlain has written the name of this river in this + particular instance _Guille_, probably an abbreviation for _Anguille_, + the French name of the fish which we call the eel. Lescarbot says the + "river was named _L'Equille_ because the first fish taken therein was + an _equille_."--Vide antea, note 57. + +180. The elevation of this range varies from six hundred to seven hundred + feet. + + + + +CHAPTER XI + +WHAT TOOK PLACE AFTER THE DEPARTURE OF SIEUR DE MONTS, UNTIL, NO TIDINGS OF +WHAT HE HAD PROMISED BEING RECEIVED, WE DEPARTED FROM PORT ROYAL TO RETURN +TO FRANCE. + + +As soon as Sieur de Monts had departed, a portion of the forty or +forty-five who remained began to make gardens. I, also, for the sake of +occupying my time, made one, which was surrounded with ditches full of +water, in which I placed some fine trout, and into which flowed three +brooks of very fine running water, from which the greater part of our +settlement was supplied. I made also a little sluice-way towards the shore, +in order to draw off the water when I wished. This spot was entirely +surrounded by meadows, where I constructed a summer-house, with some fine +trees, as a resort for enjoying the fresh air. I made there, also, a little +reservoir for holding salt-water fish, which we took out as we wanted them. +I took especial pleasure in it, and planted there some seeds which turned +out well. But much work had to be laid out in preparation. We resorted +often to this place as a pastime; and it seemed as if the little birds +round about took pleasure in it, for they gathered there in large numbers, +warbling and chirping so pleasantly that I think I never heard the like. + +The plan of the settlement was ten fathoms long and eight wide, making the +distance round thirty-six. On the eastern side is a store-house, occupying +the width of it, and a very fine cellar from five to six feet deep. On the +northern side are the quarters of Sieur de Monts, handsomely finished. +About the back yard are the dwellings of the workmen. At a corner of the +western side is a platform, where four cannon were placed; and at the other +corner, towards the east, is a palisade shaped like a platform, as can be +seen from the accompanying illustration. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +L'ABITASION DU PORT ROYAL. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. Dwelling of the artisans. +_B_. Platform where the cannon were placed. +_C_. The store-house. +_D_. Dwelling of Sieur de Pont Gravé and Champlain. +_E_. The blacksmith's shop. +_F_. Palisade of pickets. +_G_. The bakery. +_H_. The kitchen. +_O_. Small house where the equipment of our barques was stored. This Sieur + de Poutrincourt afterwards had rebuilt, and Sieur Boulay dwelt there + when Sieur de Pont Gravé returned to France. +_P_. Gate to our habitation. +_Q_. The Cemetery. +_R_. The River. + +NOTES. The habitation of Port Royal was on the present site of the hamlet +of Lower Granville in Nova Scotia. _I_. Points to the garden-plots. _K_. +Takes the place of _Q_, which is wanting on the map, and marks the place of +the cemetery, where may be seen the crucifix, the death's-head, and +cross-bones. _L_. Takes the place of _R_, which is wanting, to indicate the +river. _M_. Indicates the moat on the north side of the dwelling. _N_. +Probably indicates the dwelling of the gentlemen, De Monts and others. + + * * * * * + +Some days after the buildings were completed, I went to the river St. John +to find the savage named Secondon, the same that conducted Prevert's party +to the copper mine, which I had already gone in search of with Sieur de +Monts, when we were at the Port of Mines, though without success. [181] +Having found him, I begged him to go there with us, which he very readily +consented to do, and proceeded to show it to us. We found there some +little pieces of copper of the thickness of a sou, and others still thicker +imbedded in grayish and red rocks. The miner accompanying us, whose name +was Master Jacques, a native of Sclavonia, a man very skilful in searching +for minerals, made the entire circuit of the hills to see if he could find +any gangue, [182] but without success. Yet he found, some steps from where +we had taken the pieces of copper before mentioned, something like a mine, +which, however, was far from being one. He said that, from the appearance +of the soil, it might prove to be good, if it were worked; and that it was +not probable that there could be pure copper on the surface of the earth, +without there being a large quantity of it underneath. The truth is that, +if the water did not cover the mines twice a day, and if they did not lie +in such hard rocks, something might be expected from them. + +After making this observation, we returned to our settlement, where we +found some of our company sick with the _mal de la terre_, but not so +seriously as at the Island of St. Croix; although, out of our number of +forty-five, twelve died, including the miner, and five were sick, who +recovered the following spring. Our surgeon, named Des Champs, from +Honfleur, skilful in his profession, opened some of the bodies, to see +whether he might be more successful in discovering the cause of the +maladies that our surgeons had been the year before. He found the parts of +the body affected in the same manner as those opened at the Island of +St. Croix, but could discover no means of curing them, any more than the +other surgeons. + +On the 20th of December, it began to snow, and some ice passed along before +our Settlement. The winter was not so sharp as the year before, nor the +snow so deep, or of so long duration. Among other incidents, the wind was +so violent on the 20th of February, 1605, [183] that it blew over a large +number of trees, roots and all, and broke off many others. It was a +remarkable sight. The rains were very frequent; which was the cause of the +mild winter in comparison with the past one, although it is only +twenty-five leagues from Port Royal to St. Croix. + +On the first day of March, Pont Gravé ordered a barque of seventeen or +eighteen tons to be fitted up, which was ready, on the 15th, in order to go +on a voyage of discovery along the coast of Florida. [184] With this view, +we set out on the 16th following, but were obliged to put in at an island +to the south of Manan, having gone that day eighteen leagues. We anchored +in a sandy cove, exposed to the sea and the south wind. [185] The latter +increased, during the night, to such an impetuosity that we could not stand +by our anchor, and were compelled, without choice, to go ashore, at the +mercy of God and the waves. The latter were so heavy and furious that while +we were attaching the buoy to the anchor, so as to cut the cable at the +hawse-hole, it did not give us time, but broke straightway of itself. The +wind and the sea cast us as the wave receded upon a little rock, and we +awaited only the moment to see our barque break up, and to save ourselves, +if possible, upon its fragments. In these desperate straits, after we had +received several waves, there came one so large and fortunate for us that +it carried us over the rock, and threw us on to a little sandy beach, which +insured us for this time from shipwreck. + +The barque being on shore, we began at once to unload what there was in +her, in order to ascertain where the damage was, which was not so great as +we expected. She was speedily repaired by the diligence of Champdoré, her +master. Having been put in order, she was reloaded; and we waited for fair +weather and until the fury of the sea should abate, which was not until the +end of four days, namely, the 21st of March, when we set out from this +miserable place, and proceeded to Port aux Coquilles, [186] seven or eight +leagues distant. The latter is at the mouth of the river St. Croix, where +there was a large quantity of snow. We stayed there until the 29th of the +month, in consequence of the fogs and contrary winds, which are usual at +this season, when Pont Gravé determined to put back to Port Royal, to see +in what condition our companions were, whom we had left there sick. Having +arrived there, Pont Gravé was attacked with illness, which delayed us until +the 8th of April. + +On the 9th of the month he embarked, although still indisposed, from his +desire to see the coast of Florida, and in the belief that a change of air +would restore his health. The same day we anchored and passed the night at +the mouth of the harbor, two leagues distant from our settlement. + +The next morning before day, Champdoré came to ask Pont Gravé if he wished +to have the anchor raised, who replied in the affirmative, if he deemed the +weather favorable for setting out. Upon this, Champdoré had the anchor +raised at once, and the sail spread to the wind, which was +north-north-east, according to his report. The weather was thick and rainy, +and the air full of fog, with indications of foul rather than fair weather. + +While going out of the mouth of the harbor, [187] we were suddenly carried +by the tide out of the passage, and, before perceiving them, were driven +upon the rocks on the east-north-east coast. [188] Pont Gravé and I, who +were asleep, were awaked by hearing the sailors shouting and exclaiming, +"We are lost!" which brought me quickly to my feet, to see what was the +matter. Pont Gravé was still ill, which prevented him from rising as +quickly as he wished. I was scarcely on deck, when the barque was thrown +upon the coast; and the wind, which was north, drove us upon a point. We +unfurled the mainsail, turned it to the wind, and hauled it up as high as +we could, that it might drive us up as far as possible on the rocks, for +fear that the reflux of the sea, which fortunately was falling, would draw +us in, when it would have been impossible to save ourselves. At the first +blow of our boat upon the rocks, the rudder broke, a part of the keel and +three or four planks were smashed, and some ribs stove in, which frightened +us, for our barque filled immediately; and all that we could do was to wait +until the sea fell, so that we might get ashore. For, otherwise, we were in +danger of our lives, in consequence of the swell, which was very high and +furious about us. The sea having fallen, we went on shore amid the storm, +when the barque was speedily unloaded, and we saved a large portion of the +provisions in her, with the help of the savage, Captain Secondon and his +companions, who came to us with their canoes, to carry to our habitation +what we had saved from our barque, which, all shattered as she was, went to +pieces at the return of the tide. But we, most happy at having saved our +lives, returned to our settlement with our poor savages, who stayed there a +large part of the winter; and we praised God for having rescued us from +this shipwreck, from which we had not expected to escape so easily. + +The loss of our barque caused us great regret, since we found ourselves, +through want of a vessel, deprived of the prospect of being able to +accomplish the voyage we had undertaken. And we were unable to build +another; for time was pressing, and although there was another barque on +the stocks, yet it would have required too long to get it ready, and we +could scarcely have made use of it before the return from France of the +vessels we were daily expecting. + +This was a great misfortune, and owing to the lack of foresight on the part +of the master, who was obstinate, but little acquainted with seamanship, +and trusting only his own head. He was a good carpenter, skilful in +building vessels, and careful in provisioning them with all necessaries, +but in no wise adapted to sailing them. + +Pont Gravé, having arrived at the settlement, received the evidence against +Champdoré, who was accused of having run the barque on shore with evil +intent. Upon such information, he was imprisoned and handcuffed, with the +intention of taking him to France and handing him over to Sieur de Monts, +to be treated as justice might direct. + +On the 15th of June, Pont Gravé, finding that the vessels did not return +from France, had the handcuffs taken off from Champdoré, that he might +finish the barque which was on the stocks, which service he discharged very +well. + +On the 16th of July, the time when we were to leave, in case the vessels +had not returned, as was provided in the commission which Sieur de Monts +had given to Pont Gravé, we set out from our settlement to go to Cape +Breton or to Gaspé in search of means of returning to France, since we had +received no intelligence from there. + +Two of our men remained, of their own accord, to take care of the +provisions which were left at the settlement, to each of whom Pont Gravé +promised fifty crowns in money, and fifty more which he agreed to estimate +their pay at when he should come to get them the following year. [189] + +There was a captain of the savages named Mabretou, [190] who promised to +take care of them, and that they should be treated as kindly as his own +children. We found him a friendly savage all the time we were there, +although he had the name of being the worst and most traitorous man of his +tribe. + +ENDNOTES: + +181. _Vide antea_, pp. 25, 26. + +182. _La gangue_. This is the technical word for the matrix, or substance + containing the ore of metals. + +183. For 1605, read 1606. + +184. Florida, as then known, extended from the peninsula indefinitely to + the north. + +185. Seal Cove, which makes up between the south-west end of the Grand + Manan and Wood Island, the latter being South of Manan and is plainly + the island referred to in the text. This cove is open to the South + wind and the sea in a storm. Wood Island has a sandy shore with + occasional rocks. + +186. _Port aux Coquilles_, the harbor of shells. This port was near the + northeastern extremity of Campobello Island, and was probably Head + Harbor, which affords a good harbor of refuge.--_Vide_ Champlain's Map + of 1612, reference 9. + +187. By "harbor" is here meant Annapolis Bay. This wreck of the barque took + place on the Granville side of Digby Strait, where the tides rise from + twenty-three to twenty-seven feet. + +188. North-east. The text has _norouest_, clearly a misprint for _nordest_. + +189. These two men were M. La Taille and Miquelet, of whom Lescarbot speaks + in terms of enthusiastic praise for their patriotic courage in + voluntarily risking their lives for the good of New France. _Vide + Histoire Nouvelle France_, Paris, 1612, pp. 545, 546. + +190. _Mabretou_, by Lescarbot written Membertou. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +DEPARTURE FROM PORT ROYAL TO RETURN TO FRANCE.--MEETING RALLEAU AT CAPE +SABLE, WHICH CAUSED US TO TURN BACK. + + +On the 17th of the month, in accordance with the resolution we had formed, +we set out from the mouth of Port Royal with two barques, one of eighteen +tons, the other of seven or eight, with the view of pursuing the voyage to +Cape Breton or Canseau. We anchored in the strait of Long Island,[191] +where during the night our cable broke, and we came near being lost, owing +to the violent tides which strike upon several rocky points in and about +this place. But, through the diligent exertions of all, we were saved, and +escaped once more. + +On the 21st of the month there was a violent wind, which broke the irons of +our rudder between Long Island and Cape Fourchu, and reduced us to such +extremities that we were at a loss what to do. For the fury of the sea did +not permit us to land, since the breakers ran mountain high along the +coast, so that we resolved to perish in the sea rather than to land, hoping +that the wind and tempest would abate, so that, with the wind astern, we +might go ashore on some sandy beach. As each one thought by himself what +might be done for our preservation, a sailor said that a quantity of +cordage attached to the stern of our barque, and dragging in the water, +might serve in some measure to steer our vessel. But this was of no avail; +and we saw that, unless God should aid us by other means, this would not +preserve us from shipwreck. As we were thinking what could be done for our +safety, Champdoré, who had been again handcuffed, said to some of us that, +if Pont Gravé desired it, he would find means to steer our barque. This we +reported to Pont Gravé, who did not refuse this offer, and the rest of us +still less. He accordingly had his handcuffs taken off the second time, +and at once taking a rope, he cut it and fastened the rudder with it in +such a skilful manner that it would steer the ship as well as ever. In this +way, he made amends for the mistakes he had made leading to the loss of the +previous barque, and was discharged from his accusation through our +entreaties to Pont Gravé who, although somewhat reluctantly, acceded to it. + +The same day we anchored near La Baye Courante, [192] two leagues from Cape +Fourchu, and there our barque was repaired. + +On the 23d of July, we proceeded near to Cape Sable. + +On the 24th of the month, at two o'clock in the afternoon, we perceived a +shallop, near Cormorant Island, coming from Cape Sable. Some thought it was +savages going away from Cape Breton or the Island of Canseau. Others said +it might be shallops sent from Canseau to get news of us. Finally, as we +approached nearer, we saw that they were Frenchmen, which delighted us +greatly. When it had almost reached us, we recognized Ralleau, the +Secretary of Sieur de Monts, which redoubled our joy. He informed us that +Sieur de Monts had despatched a vessel of a hundred and twenty tons, +commanded by Sieur de Poutrincourt, who had come with fifty men to act as +Lieutenant-General, and live in the country; that he had landed at Canseau, +whence the above-mentioned vessel had gone out to sea, in order, if +possible, to find us, while he, meanwhile, was proceeding along the coast +in a shallop, in order to meet us in case we should have set out, supposing +we had departed from Port Royal, as was in fact the case: in so doing, they +acted very wisely. All this intelligence caused us to turn back; and we +arrived at Port Royal on the 25th of the month, where we found the +above-mentioned vessel and Sieur de Poutrincourt, and were greatly +delighted to see realized what we had given up in despair. [193] He told us +that his delay had been caused by an accident which happened to the ship in +leaving the boom at Rochelle, where he had taken his departure, and that he +had been hindered by bad weather on his voyage. [194] + +The next day, Sieur de Poutrincourt proceeded to set forth his views as to +what should be done; and, in accordance with the opinion of all, he +resolved to stay at Port Royal this year, inasmuch as no discovery had been +made since the departure of Sieur de Monts, and the period of four months +before winter was not long enough to search out a site and construct +another settlement, especially in a large vessel, unlike a barque which +draws little water, searches everywhere, and finds places to one's mind for +effecting settlements. But he decided that, during this period, nothing +more should be done than to try to find some place better adapted for our +abode. [195] + +Thus deciding, Sieur de Poutrincourt despatched at once some laborers to +work on the land in a spot which he deemed suitable, up the river, a league +and a half from the settlement of Port Royal, and where we had thought of +making our abode. Here he ordered wheat, rye, hemp, and several other kinds +of seeds to be sown, in order to ascertain how they would flourish. [196] + +On the 22d of August, a small barque was seen approaching our settlement. +It was that of Des Antons, of St. Malo, who had come from Canseau, where +his vessel was engaged in fishing, to inform us that there were some +vessels about Cape Breton engaged in the fur-trade; and that, if we would +send our ship, we might capture them on the point of returning to +France. It was determined to do so as soon as some supplies, which were in +the ship, could be unloaded. [197] + +This being done. Pont Gravé embarked, together with his companions, who had +wintered with him at Port Royal, excepting Champdoré and Foulgeré de Vitré. +I also stayed with De Poutrincourt, in order, with God's help, to complete +the map of the coasts and countries which I had commenced. Every thing +being put in order in the settlement. Sieur de Poutrincourt ordered +provisions to be taken on board for our voyage along the coast of Florida. + +On the 29th of August, we set out from Port Royal, as did also Pont Gravé +and Des Antons, who were bound for Cape Breton and Canseau, to seize the +vessels which were engaging in the fur-trade, as I have before stated. +After getting out to sea, we were obliged to put back on account of bad +weather. But the large vessel kept on her course, and we soon lost sight of +her. + +ENDNOTES: + +191. Petit Passage, leading into St. Mary's Bay. + +192. _La Baye Courante_, the bay at the mouth of Argyl or Abuptic River, + sometimes called Lobster Bay.--_Vide Campbell's Yarmouth County_. + N.S., p. 13. The anchorage for the repair of the barque near this bay, + two leagues from Cape Fourchu, was probably near Pinckney Point, or it + may have been under the lee of one of the Tusquet Islands. + +193. Lescarbot, who with De Poutrincourt was in this vessel, the "Jonas," + gives a very elaborate account of their arrival and reception at Port + Royal. It seems that, at Canseau, Poutrincourt, supposing that the + colony at Port Royal, not receiving expected succors, had possibly + already embarked for France, as was in fact the case, had despatched a + small boat in charge of Ralleau to reconnoitre the coast, with the + hope of meeting them, if they had already embarked. The "Jonas" passed + them unobserved, perhaps while they were repairing their barque at + Baye Courante. As Ralleau did not join the "Jonas" till after their + arrival at Port Royal, Poutrincourt did not hear of the departure of + the colony till his arrival. Champlain's dates do not agree with those + of Lescarbot, and the latter is probably correct. According to + Lescarbot, Poutrincourt arrived on the 27th, and Pont Gravé with + Champlain on the 31st of July. _Vide His. Nou. France_, Paris, 1612, + pp. 544, 547. + +194. Lescarbot gives a graphic account of the accident which happened to + their vessel in the harbor of Rochelle, delaying them more than a + month: and the bad weather and the bad seamanship of Captain Foulques, + who commanded the "Jonas," which kept them at sea more than two months + and a half.--_Vide His. Nou. France_, Paris. 1612, p. 523, _et seq._ + +195. Before leaving France, Poutrincourt had received instructions from the + patentee, De Monts to seek for a good harbor and more genial climate + for the colony farther south than Mallebarre, as he was not satisfied + either with St. Croix or Port Royal for a permanent abode.--_Vide + Lescarbot's His. Nou. France_, Paris, 1612, p. 552. + +196. By reference to Champlain's drawing of Port Royal, it will be seen + that the place of this agricultural experiment was on the southern + side of Annapolis River, near the mouth of Alien River, and on the + identical soil where the village of Annapolis now stands. + +197. It appears that this fur-trader was one Boyer, of Rouen, who had been + delivered from prison at Rochelle by Poutrincourt's lenity, where he + had been incarcerated probably for the same offence. They did not + succeed in capturing him at Canseau.--_Vide His. Nou. France_, par + Lescarbot, Paris, 1612, p. 553. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +SIEUR DE POUTRINCOURT SETS OUT FROM PORT ROYAL TO MAKE DISCOVERIES.--ALL +THAT WAS SEEN, AND WHAT TOOK PLACE AS FAR AS MALLEBARRE. + + +On the 5th of September, we set out again from Port Royal. + +On the 7th, we reached the mouth of the river St. Croix, where we found a +large number of savages, among others Secondon and Messamouët. We came +near being lost there on a rocky islet, on account of Champdoré's usual +obstinacy. + +The next day we proceeded in a shallop to the Island of St. Croix, where +Sieur de Monts had wintered, to see if we could find any spikes of wheat +and other seeds which we had planted there. We found some wheat which had +fallen on the ground, and come up as finely as one could wish; also a large +number of garden vegetables, which also had come up fair and large. It gave +us great satisfaction to see that the soil there was good and fertile. + +After visiting the island, we returned to our barque, which was one of +eighteen tons, on the way catching a large number of mackerel, which are +abundant there at this season. It was decided to continue the voyage along +the coast, which was not a very well-considered conclusion, since we lost +much time in passing over again the discoveries made by Sieur de Monts as +far as the harbor of Mallebarre. It would have been much better, in my +opinion, to cross from where we were directly to Mallebarre, the route +being already known, and then use our time in exploring as far as the +fortieth degree, or still farther south, revisiting, upon our homeward +voyage, the entire coast at pleasure. + +After this decision, we took with us Secondon and Messamouët, who went as +far as Choüacoet in a shallop, where they wished to make an alliance with +the people of the country, by offering them some presents. + +On the 12th of September, we set out from the river St. Croix. + +On the 21st, we arrived at Choüacoet, where we saw Onemechin, chief of the +river, and Marchin, who had harvested their corn. We saw at the Island of +Bacchus [198] some grapes which were ripe and very good, and some others +not yet ripe, as fine as those in France; and I am sure that, if they were +cultivated, they would produce good wine. + +In this place. Sieur de Poutrincourt secured a prisoner that Onemechin had, +to whom Messamouët [199] made presents of kettles, hatchets, knives, and +other things. Onemechin reciprocated the same with Indian corn, squashes, +and Brazilian beans; which was not very satisfactory to Messamouët, who +went away very ill-disposed towards them for not properly recognizing his +presents, and with the intention of making war upon them in a short time. +For these nations give only in exchange for something in return, except to +those who have done them a special service, as by assisting them in their +wars. + +Continuing our course, we proceeded to the Island Cape, [200] where we +encountered rather bad weather and fogs, and saw little prospect of being +able to spend the night under shelter, since the locality was not favorable +for this. While we were thus in perplexity, it occurred to me that, while +coasting along with Sieur de Monts, I had noted on my map, at a distance of +a league from here, a place which seemed suitable for vessels, but which we +did not enter, because, when we passed it, the wind was favorable for +continuing on our course. This place we had already passed, which led me +to suggest to Sieur de Poutrincourt that we should stand in for a point in +sight, where the place in question was, which seemed to me favorable for +passing the night. We proceeded to anchor at the mouth, and went in the +next day. [201] + +Sieur de Poutrincourt landed with eight or ten of our company. We saw some +very fine grapes just ripe, Brazilian peas, [202] pumpkins, squashes, and +very good roots, which the savages cultivate, having a taste similar to +that of chards. [203] They made us presents of some of these, in exchange +for little trifles which we gave them. They had already finished their +harvest. We saw two hundred savages in this very pleasant place; and there +are here a large number [204] of very fine walnut-trees, [205] cypresses, +sassafras, oaks, ashes, and beeches. The chief of this place is named +Quiouhamenec, who came to see us with a neighbor of his, named Cohoüepech, +whom we entertained sumptuously. Onemechin, chief of Choüacoet, came also +to see us, to whom we gave a coat, which he, however, did not keep a long +time, but made a present of it to another, since he was uneasy in it, and +could not adapt himself to it. We saw also a savage here, who had so +wounded himself in the foot, and lost so much blood, that he fell down in a +swoon. Many others surrounded him, and sang some time before touching him. +Afterwards, they made some motions with their feet and hands, shook his +head and breathed upon him, when he came to himself. Our surgeon dressed +his wounds, when he went off in good spirits. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +LE BEAU PORT. [Note: _Le Beau Port_ is Gloucester.] + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. Place where our barque was. +_B_. Meadows. +_C_. Small island. [Note: Ten-Pound Island. It is forty rods long and + thirty feet high. On it is a U. S. Light, fifty feet above the + sea-level.] +_D_. Rocky cape. + +_E_. Place where we had our shallop calked. [Note: This peninsula is now + called Rocky Neck. Its southern part and the causeway which connects + it with the main land are now thickly settled.] +_F_. Little rocky islet, very high on the coast. [Note: This is Salt + Island.] +_G_. Cabins of the savages and where they till the soil. +_H_. Little river where there are meadows. [Note: This is the small stream + that flows into Fresh-Water Cove.] +_I_. Brook. +_L_. Tongue of land covered with trees, including a large number of + sassafras, walnut-trees, and vines. [Note: This is now called Eastern + Point, is three quarters of a mile long, and about half a mile in its + greatest width. At its southern extremity is a U. S. Light, sixty feet + above the sea-level. The scattering rocks figured by Champlain on its + western shore are now known as Black Bess.] +_M_. Arm of the sea on the other side of the Island Cape. [Note: Squam + River, flowing into Annisquam Harbor.] +_N_. Little River. +_O_. Little brook coming from the meadows. +_P_. Another little brook where we did our washing. +_Q_. Troop of savages coming to surprise us. [Note: They were creeping + along the eastern bank of Smith's Cove.] +_R_. Sandy strand. [Note: The beach of South-East Harbor.] +_S_. Sea-coast. +_T_. Sieur de Poutrincourt in ambuscade with some seven or eight + arquebusiers. +_V_. Sieur de Champlain discovering the savages. + +NOTES: A comparison of his map with the Coast Survey Charts will exhibit +its surprising accuracy, especially when we make allowance for the fact +that it is merely a sketch executed without measurements, and with a very +brief visit to the locality. The projection or cape west of Ten-Pound +Island, including Stage Head, may be easily identified, as likewise Fort +Point directly north of the same island, as seen on our maps, but +north-west on that of Champlain, showing that his map is oriented with an +inclination to the west. The most obvious defect is the foreshortening of +the Inner Harbor, which requires much greater elongation. + + * * * * * + +The next day, as we were calking our shallop, Sieur de Poutrincourt in the +woods noticed a number of savages who were going, with the intention of +doing us some mischief, to a little stream, where a neck connects with the +main land, at which our party were doing their washing. As I was walking +along this neck, these savages noticed me; and, in order to put a good face +upon it, since they saw that I had discovered them thus seasonably, they +began to shout and dance, and then came towards me with their bows, arrows, +quivers, and other arms. And, inasmuch as there was a meadow between them +and myself, I made a sign to them to dance again. This they did in a +circle, putting all their arms in the middle. But they had hardly +commenced, when they observed Sieur de Poutrincourt in the wood with eight +musketeers, which frightened them. Yet they did not stop until they had +finished their dance, when they withdrew in all directions, fearing lest +some unpleasant turn might be served them. We said nothing to them, +however, and showed them only demonstrations of gladness. Then we returned +to launch our shallop, and take our departure. They entreated us to wait a +day, saying that more than two thousand of them would come to see us. But, +unable to lose any time, we were unwilling to stay here longer. I am of +opinion that their object was to surprise us. Some of the land was already +cleared up, and they were constantly making clearings. Their mode of doing +it is as follows: after cutting down the trees at the distance of three +feet from the ground, they burn the branches upon the trunk, and then plant +their corn between these stumps, in course of time tearing up also the +roots. There are likewise fine meadows here, capable of supporting a large +number of cattle. This harbor is very fine, containing water enough for +vessels, and affording a shelter from the weather behind the islands. It is +in latitude 43°, and we gave it the name of Le Beauport. [206] + +The last day of September we set out from Beauport, and, passing Cap +St. Louis, stood on our course all night for Cap Blanc. [207] In the +morning, an hour before daylight we found ourselves to the leeward of Cap +Blanc, in Baye Blanche, with eight feet of water, and at a distance of a +league from the shore. Here we anchored, in order not to approach too near +before daylight, and to see how the tide was. Meanwhile, we sent our +shallop to make soundings. Only eight feet of water were found, so that it +was necessary to determine before daylight what we would do. The water sank +as low as five feet, and our barque sometimes touched on the sand, yet +without any injury, for the water was calm, and we had not less than three +feet of water under us. Then the tide began to rise, which gave us +encouragement. + +When it was day, we saw a very low, sandy shore, off which we were, and +more to the leeward. A shallop was sent to make soundings in the direction +of land somewhat high, where we thought there would be deep water; and, in +fact, we found seven fathoms. Here we anchored, and at once got ready the +shallop, with nine or ten men to land and examine a place where we thought +there was a good harbor to shelter ourselves in, if the wind should +increase. An examination having been made, we entered in two, three, and +four fathoms of water. When we were inside, we found five and six. There +were many very good oysters here, which we had not seen before, and we +named the place Port aux Huistres. [208] It is in latitude 42°. Three +canoes of savages came out to us. On this day, the wind coming round in our +favor, we weighed anchor to go to Cap Blanc, distant from here five leagues +north a quarter north-east, and we doubled the cape. + +On the next day, the 2d of October, we arrived off Mallebarre, [209] where +we stayed some time on account of the bad weather. During this time, Sieur +de Poutrincourt, with the shallop, accompanied by twelve or fifteen men, +visited the harbor, where some hundred and fifty savages, singing and +dancing according to their custom, appeared before him. After seeing this +place, we returned to our vessel, and, the wind coming favorable, sailed +along the coast towards the south. + +ENDNOTES: + +198. Richmond Island.--_Vide antea_, note 123. The ripe grapes which he saw + were the Fox Grape. _Vitis labrusca_, which ripens in September. The + fruit is of a dark purple color, tough and musky. The Isabella, common + in our markets, is derived from it. It is not quite clear whether + those seen in an unripe state were another species or not. If they + were, they were the Frost Grape, _Vitis cardifolia_, which are found + in the northern parts of New England. The berry is small, black or + blue, having a bloom, highly acid, and ripens after frosts. This + island, so prolific in grapes, became afterward a centre of commercial + importance. On Josselyn's voyage of 1638, he says: "The Six and + twentieth day, Capt. _Thomas Cammock_ went aboard of a Barke of 300 + Tuns, laden with Island Wine, and but 7 men in her, and never a Gun, + bound for Richmond's Island, Set out by Mr. _Trelaney, of Plimouth_"-- + _Voyages_, 1675, Boston, Veazie's ed., 1865, p. 12. + +199. Messamouët was a chief from the Port de la Hève, and was accompanied + by Secondon, also a chief from the river St. John. They had come to + Saco to dispose of a quantity of goods which they had obtained from + the French fur-traders. Messamouët made an address on the occasion, in + which he stated that he had been in France, and had been entertained + at the house of Mons. de Grandmont, governor of Bavonne.--_Vide + His. Nou. France_, par Lescarbot, Paris, 1612, p. 559, _et seq._ + +200. Cape Anne. + +201. Gloucester Bay, formerly called Cape Anne Harbor, which, as we shall + see farther on, they named _Beauport_, the beautiful harbor. + +202. Brazilian peas. This should undoubtedly read Brazilian beans. _Pois du + Brésil_ is here used apparently by mistake for _febues de Brésil_.-- + Vide antea, note 127. + +203. Chards, a vegetable dill, composed of the footstocks and midrib of + artichokes, cardoons, or white beets. The "very good roots," _des + racines qui font bonnes_, were Jerusalem Artichokes, _Helianthus + tuberofus_, indigenous to the northern part of this continent. The + Italians had obtained it before Champlain's time, and named it + _Girasole_, their word for sunflower, of which the artichoke is a + species. This word, _girasole_, has been singularly corrupted in + England into _Jerusalem_; hence Jerusalem artichoke, now the common + name of this plant. We presume that there is no instance on record of + its earlier cultivation in New England than at Nauset in 1605, _vide + antea_, p. 82, and here at Gloucester in 1606. + +204. Under the word _noyers_, walnut-trees, Champlain may have comprehended + the hickories, _Carya alba_ and _porcina_, and perhaps the butternut, + _Juglans cinerea_, all of which might have been seen at Gloucester. It + is clear from his description that he saw at Saco the hickory, _Carya + porcina_, commonly known as the pig-nut or broom hickory. He probably + saw likewise the shag bark, _Carya alba_, as both are found growing + wild there even at the present day.--_Vide antea_, p. 67. Both the + butternut and the hickories are exclusively of American origin; and + there was no French name by which they could be more accurately + designated. _Noyer_ is applied in France to the tree which produces + the nut known in our markets as the English walnut. Josselyn figures + the hickory under the name of walnut.--_Vide New Eng. Rarities_, + Tuckerman's ed., p. 97. See also _Wood's New Eng. Prospect_, 1634, + Prince Soc. ed., p. 18. + +205. The trees here mentioned are such probably as appeared to Champlain + especially valuable for timber or other practical uses. + + The cypress, _cyprès_, has been already referred to in note 168. It is + distinguished for its durability, its power of resisting the usual + agencies of decay, and is widely used for posts, and sleepers on the + track of railways, and to a limited extent for cabinet work, but less + now than in earlier times. William Wood says of it: "This wood is more + desired for ornament than substance, being of color red and white, + like Eugh, smelling as sweet as Iuniper; it is commonly used for + seeling of houses, and making of Chests, boxes and staves."--_Wood's + New Eng. Prospect_, 1634, Prince Soc. ed., p. 19. + + The sassafras, _Sassafras officinate_, is indigenous to this + continent, and has a spicy, aromatic flavor, especially the bark and + root. It was in great repute as a medicine for a long time after the + discovery of this country. Cargoes of it were often taken home by the + early voyagers for the European markets; and it is said to have sold + as high as fifty livres per pound. Dr. Jacob Bigelow says a work + entitled "Sassafrasologia" was written to celebrate its virtues; but + its properties are only those of warm aromatics. Josselyn describes + it, and adds that it does not "grow beyond Black Point eastward," + which is a few miles north-east of Old Orchard Beach, near Saco, in + Maine. It is met with now infrequently in New England; several + specimens, however, may be seen in the Granary Burial Ground in + Boston. + + Oaks, _chesnes_, of which several of the larger species may have been + seen: as, the white oak, _Quercus alba_; black oak, _Quercus + tinfloria_; Scarlet oak, _Quercus coccinea_; and red oak, _Quercus + rubra_. + + Ash-trees, _fresnes_, probably the white ash, _Fraxinus Americana_, + and not unlikely the black ash, _Fraxinus sambucifolia_, both valuable + as timber. + + Beech-trees, _hestres_, of which there is but a single Species, _Fagus + ferruginca_, the American beech, a handsome tree, of symmetrical + growth, and clean, smooth, ash-gray bark: the nut, of triangular + shape, is sweet and palatable. The wood is brittle, and used only for + a few purposes. + +206. Le Beauport. The latitude of Ten-Pound Island, near where the French + barque was anchored in the Harbor of Gloucester, is 42° 36' 5". + +207. The reader may be reminded that Cap St. Louis is Brant Point; Cap + Blanc is Cape Cod; and Baye Blanche is Cape Cod Bay. + +208. _Le Port aux Huistres_, Oyster Harbor. The reader will observe, by + looking back a few sentences in the narrative, that the French + coasters, after leaving Cap St. Louis, that is, Brant Point, had aimed + to double Cape Cod, and had directed their course, as they supposed, + to accomplish this purpose. Owing, however, to the strength of the + wind, or the darkness of the night, or the inattention of their pilot, + or all these together, they had passed to the leeward of the point + aimed at, and before morning found themselves near a harbor, which + they subsequently entered, in Cape Cod Bay. It is plain that this + port, which they named Oyster Harbor, was either that of Wellfleet or + Barnstable. The former, it will be remembered, Champlain, with De + Monts, entered the preceding year, 1605, and named it, or the river + that flows into it, St. Suzanne du Cap Blanc.--_Vide antea_, note + 166. It is obvious that Champlain could not have entered this harbor + the second time without recognizing it: and, if he had done so, he + would not have given to it a name entirely different from that which + he had given it the year before. He was too careful an observer to + fall into such an extraordinary mistake. We may conclude, therefore, + that the port in question was not Wellfleet, but Barnstable. This + conclusion is sustained by the conditions mentioned in the text. They + entered, on a flood-tide, in twelve, eighteen, and twenty-four feet of + water, and found thirty or thirty-six when they had passed into the + harbor. It could hardly be expected that any harbor among the shifting + sands of Cape Cod would remain precisely the same, as to depth of + water, after the lapse of two hundred and fifty years. Nevertheless, + the discrepancy is so slight in this case, that it would seem to be + accidental, rather than to arise from the solidity or fixedness of the + harbor-bed. The channel of Barnstable Harbor, according to the Coast + Survey Charts, varies in depth at low tide, for two miles outside of + Sandy Neck Point, from seven to ten feet for the first mile, and for + the next mile from ten feet to thirty-two on reaching Beach Point, + which may be considered the entrance of the bay. On passing the Point, + we have thirty-six and a half feet, and for a mile inward the depth + varies from twelve to twenty feet. Add a few feet for the rise of the + tide on which they entered, and the depth of the water in 1606 could + not have been very different from that of to-day. The "low sandy + coast" which they saw is well represented by Spring Hill Beach and + Sandy Neck; the "land somewhat high," by the range of hills in the + rear of Barnstable Harbor. The distance from the mouth of the harbor + to Wood End light, the nearest point on Cape Cod, does not vary more + than a league, and its direction is about that mentioned by + Champlain. The difference in latitude is not greater than usual. It is + never sufficiently exact for the identification of any locality. The + substantial agreement, in so many particulars with the narrative of + the author, renders it quite clear that the _Port aux Huistres_ was + Barnstable Harbor. They entered it on the morning of the 1st of + October, and appear to have left on the same day. Sandy Neck light, at + the entrance of the harbor, is in latitude 41° 43' 19". + +209. Nauset Harbor. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +CONTINUATION OF THE ABOVE DISCOVERIES, AND WHAT WAS OBSERVED OF PARTICULAR +IMPORTANCE. + + +When we were some six leagues from Mallebarre, we anchored near the coast, +the wind not being fair, along which we observed columns of smoke made by +the savages, which led us to determine to go to them, for which purpose the +shallop was made ready. But when near the coast, which is sandy, we could +not land, for the swell was too great. Seeing this, the savages launched a +canoe, and came out to us, eight or nine of them, singing and making signs +of their joy at seeing us, and they indicated to us that lower down there +was a harbor where we could put our barque in a place of security. Unable +to land, the shallop came back to the barque; and the savages, whom we had +treated civilly, returned to the shore. + +On the next day, the wind being favorable, we continued our course to the +north [210] five leagues, and hardly had we gone this distance, when we +found three and four fathoms of water at a distance of a league and a half +from the shore. On going a little farther, the depth suddenly diminished +to a fathom and a half and two fathoms, which alarmed us, since we saw the +sea breaking all around, but no passage by which we could retrace our +course, for the wind was directly contrary. + +Accordingly being shut in among the breakers and sand-banks, we had to go +at hap-hazard where there seemed to be the most water for our barque, which +was at most only four feet: we continued among these breakers until we +found as much as four feet and a half. Finally, we succeeded, by the grace +of God, in going over a sandy point running out nearly three leagues +seaward to the south-south-east, and a very dangerous place. [211] Doubling +this cape, which we named Cap Batturier, [212] which is twelve or thirteen +leagues from Mallebarre, [213] we anchored in two and a half fathoms of +water, since we saw ourselves surrounded on all sides by breakers and +shoals, except in some places where the sea was breaking to go to a place, +which, we concluded to be that which the savages had indicated. We also +thought there was a river there, where we could lie in security. + +When our shallop arrived there, our party landed and examined the place, +and, returning with a savage whom they brought off, they told us that we +could enter at full tide, which was resolved upon. We immediately weighed +anchor, and, under the guidance of the savage who piloted us, proceeded to +anchor at a roadstead before the harbor, in six fathoms of water and a good +bottom; [214] for we could not enter, as the night overtook us. + +On the next day, men were sent to set stakes at the end of a sand-bank +[215] at the mouth of the harbor, when, the tide rising, we entered in two +fathoms of water. When we had arrived, we praised God for being in a place +of safety. Our rudder had broken, which we had mended with ropes; but we +were afraid that, amid these shallows and strong tides, it would break +anew, and we should be lost. Within this harbor [216] there is only a +fathom of water, and two at full tide. On the east, there is a bay +extending back on the north some three leagues, [217] in which there is an +island and two other little bays which adorn the landscape, where there is +a considerable quantity of land cleared up, and many little hills, where +they cultivate corn and the various grains on which they live. There are, +also, very fine vines, many walnut-trees, oaks, cypresses, but only a few +pines. [218] All the inhabitants of this place are very fond of +agriculture, and provide themselves with Indian corn for the winter, which +they store in the following manner:-- + +They make trenches in the sand on the slope of the hills, some five to six +feet deep, more or less. Putting their corn and other grains into large +grass sacks, they throw them into these trenches, and cover them with sand +three or four feet above the surface of the earth, taking it out as their +needs require. In this way, it is preserved as well as it would be possible +to do in our granaries. [219] + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +_PORT FORTUNÉ_. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. Pond of salt water. [Note: This is now called Oyster Pond.] +_B_. Cabins of the savages and the lands they cultivate. +_C_. Meadows where there are two little brooks. +_C_. Meadows on the island, that are covered at every tide. [Note: The + letter _C_ appears twice in the index, but both are wanting on the + map. The former seems to point to the meadows on the upper left-hand + corner: the other should probably take the place of the _O_ on the + western part of the island above _F_.] +_D_. Small mountain ranges on the island, that are covered with trees, + vines, and plum-trees. [Note: This range of hills is a marked feature + of the island.] +_E_. Pond of fresh water, where there is plenty of game. [Note: This pond + is still distinguished for its game, and is leased by gentlemen in + Boston and held as a preserve.] +_F_. A kind of meadow on the island. [Note: This is known as Morris Island; + but the strait on the north of it has been filled up, and the island + is now a part of the main land.] +_G_. An island covered with wood in a great arm of the sea. [Note: This + island has been entirely obliterated, and the neck on the north has + likewise been swept away, and the bay now extends several leagues + farther north. The destruction of the island was completed in 1851, in + the gale that swept away Minot's Light. In 1847, it had an area of + thirteen acres and an elevation of twenty feet.--_Vide Harbor + Com. Report_, 1873.] +_H_. A sort of pond of salt water, where there are many shell-fish, and, + among others, quantities of oysters. [Note: This is now called the + Mill Pond.] +_I_. Sandy downs on a narrow tongue of land. +_L_. Arm of the sea. +_M_. Roadstead before the harbor where we anchored. [Note: Chatham Roads, + or Old Stage Harbor.] +_N_. Entrance to the harbor. +_O_. The harbor and place where our barque was. +_P_. The cross we planted. +_Q_. Little brook. +_R_. Mountain which is seen at a great distance. [Note: A moderate + elevation, by no means a mountain in our sense of the word.] +_S_. Sea-shore. +_T_. Little river. +_V_. Way we went in their country among their dwellings: it is indicated by + small dots. [Note: The circuit here indicated is about four or five + miles. Another path is indicated in the same manner on the extreme + northern end of the map, which shows that their excursions had been + extensive.] +_X_. Banks and shoals. +_Y_. Small mountain seen in the interior. [Note: This is now called the + Great Chatham Hill, and is a conspicuous landmark.] +_Z_. Small brooks. +_9_. Spot near the cross where the savages killed our men. [Note: This is a + creek up which the tide sets. The other brook figured on the map a + little south of the cross has been artificially filled up, but the + marshes which it drained are still to be seen. These landmarks enable + us to fix upon the locality of the cross within a few feet.] + + * * * * * + +We saw in this place some five to six hundred savages, all naked except +their sexual parts, which they cover with a small piece of doe or +seal-skin. The women are also naked, and, like the men, cover theirs with +skins or leaves. They wear their hair carefully combed and twisted in +various ways, both men and women, after the manner of the savages of +Choüacoet. [220] Their bodies are well-proportioned, and their skin +olive-colored. They adorn themselves with feathers, beads of shell, and +other gewgaws, which they arrange very neatly in embroidery work. As +weapons, they have bows, arrows, and clubs. They are not so much great +hunters as good fishermen and tillers of the land. + +In regard to their police, government, and belief, we have been unable to +form a judgment; but I suppose that they are not different in this respect +from our savages, the Souriquois and Canadians, who worship neither the +moon nor the sun, nor any thing else, and pray no more than the beasts. +[221] There are, however, among them some persons, who, as they say, are in +concert with the devil, in whom they have great faith. They tell them all +that is to happen to them, but in so doing lie for the most part. Sometimes +they succeed in hitting the mark very well, and tell them things similar to +those which actually happen to them. For this reason, they have faith in +them, as if they were prophets; while they are only impostors who delude +them, as the Egyptians and Bohemians do the simple villagers. They have +chiefs, whom they obey in matters of war, but not otherwise, and who engage +in labor, and hold no higher rank than their companions. Each one has only +so much land as he needs for his support. + +Their dwellings are separate from each other, according to the land which +each one occupies. They are large, of a circular shape, and covered with +thatch made of grasses or the husks of Indian corn. [222] They are +furnished only with a bed or two, raised a foot from the ground, made of a +number of little pieces of wood pressed against each other, on which they +arrange a reed mat, after the Spanish style, which is a kind of matting two +or three fingers thick: on these they sleep. [223] They have a great many +fleas in summer, even in the fields. One day as we went out walking, we +were beset by so many of them that we were obliged to change our clothes. + +All the harbors, bays, and coasts from Choüacoet are filled with every +variety of fish, like those which we have before our habitation, and in +such abundance that I can confidently assert that there was not a day or +night when we did not see and hear pass by our barque more than a thousand +porpoises, which were chasing the smaller fry. There are also many +shell-fish of various sorts, principally oysters. Game birds are very +plenty. + +It would be an excellent place to erect buildings and lay the foundations +of a State, if the harbor were somewhat deeper and the entrance safer. +Before leaving the harbor, the rudder was repaired; and we had some bread +made from flour, which we had brought for our subsistence, in case our +biscuit should give out. Meanwhile, we sent the shallop with five or six +men and a savage to see whether a passage might be found more favorable for +our departure than that by which we had entered. + +After they had gone five or six leagues and were near the land, the savage +made his escape [224], since he was afraid of being taken to other savages +farther south, the enemies of his tribe, as he gave those to understand who +were in the shallop. The latter, upon their return, reported that, as far +as they had advanced, there were at least three fathoms of water, and that +farther on there were neither shallows nor reefs. + +We accordingly made haste to repair our barque, and make a supply of bread +for fifteen days. Meanwhile, Sieur de Poutrincourt, accompanied by ten or +twelve arquebusiers, visited all the neighboring country, which is very +fine, as I have said before, and where we saw here and there a large number +of little houses. + +Some eight or nine days after, while Sieur de Poutrincourt was walking out, +as he had previously done, [225] we observed the savages taking down their +cabins and sending their women, children, provisions, and other necessaries +of life into the woods. This made us suspect some evil intention, and that +they purposed to attack those of our company who were working on shore, +where they stayed at night in order to guard that which could not be +embarked at evening except with much trouble. This proved to be true; for +they determined among themselves, after all their effects had been put in a +place of security, to come and surprise those on land, taking advantage of +them as much as possible, and to carry off all they had. But, if by chance +they should find them on their guard, they resolved to come with signs of +friendship, as they were wont to do, leaving behind their bows and arrows. + +Now, in view of what Sieur de Poutrincourt had seen, and the order which it +had been told him they observed when they wished to play some bad trick, +when we passed by some cabins, where there was a large number of women, we +gave them some bracelets and rings to keep them quiet and free from fear, +and to most of the old and distinguished men hatchets, knives, and other +things which they desired. This pleased them greatly, and they repaid it +all in dances, gambols, and harangues, which we did not understand at all. +We went wherever we chose without their having the assurance to say any +thing to us. It pleased us greatly to see them; show themselves so simple +in appearance. + +We returned very quietly to our barque, accompanied by some of the savages. +On the way, we met several small troops of them, who gradually gathered +together with their arms, and were greatly astonished to see us so far in +the interior, and did not suppose that we had just made a circuit of nearly +four or five leagues about their territory. Passing near us, they trembled +with fear, lest harm should be done them, as it was in our power to do. But +we did them none, although we knew their evil intentions. Having arrived +where our men were working, Sieur de Poutrincourt inquired if every thing +was in readiness to resist the designs of this rabble. + +He ordered every thing on shore to be embarked. This was done, except that +he who was making the bread stayed to finish a baking, and two others with +him. They were told that the savages had some evil intent, and that they +should make haste to embark the coming evening, since they carried their +plans into execution only at night, or at daybreak, which in their plots is +generally the hour for making a surprise. + +Evening having come, Sieur de Poutrincourt gave orders that the shallop +should be sent ashore to get the men who remained. This was done as soon as +the tide would permit, and those on shore were told that they must embark +for the reason assigned. This they refused in spite of the remonstrances +that were made setting forth the risks they ran and the disobedience to +their chief. They paid no attention to it, with the exception of a servant +of Sieur de Poutrincourt, who embarked. Two others disembarked from the +shallop and went to the three on shore, who had stayed to eat some cakes +made at the same time with the bread. + +But, as they were unwilling to do as they were told, the shallop returned +to the vessel. It was not mentioned to Sieur de Poutrincourt, who had +retired, thinking that all were on board. + +The next day, in the morning, the 15th of October, the savages did not fail +to come and see in what condition our men were, whom they found asleep, +except one, who was near the fire. When they saw them in this condition, +they came, to the number of four hundred, softly over a little hill, and +sent them such a volley of arrows that to rise up was death. Fleeing the +best they could towards our barque, shouting, "Help! they are killing us!" +a part fell dead in the water; the others were all pierced with arrows, and +one died in consequence a short time after. The savages made a desperate +noise with roarings, which it was terrible to hear. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +THE ATTACK AT PORT FORTUNE. + +The figures indicate fathoms of water. + +_A_. Place where the French were making bread. +_B_. The savages surprising the French, and shooting their arrows at them. +_C_. French burned by the savages. +_D_. The French fleeing to the barque, completely covered with arrows. +_E_. Troops of savages burning the French whom they had killed. +_F_. Mountain bordering on the harbor. +_G_. Cabins of the savages. +_H_. French on the shore charging upon the savages. +_I_. Savages routed by the French. +_L_. Shallop in which were the French. +_M_. Savages around our shallop, who were surprised by our men. +_N_. Barque of Sieur de Poutrincourt. +_O_. The harbor. +_P_. Small brook. +_Q_. French who fell dead in the water as they were trying to flee to the + barque. +_R_. Brook coming from certain marshes. +_S_. Woods under cover of which the savages came. + + * * * * * + +Upon the occurrence of this noise and that of our men, the sentinel, on our +vessel, exclaimed, "To arms! They are killing our men!" Consequently, each +one immediately seized his arms; and we embarked in the shallop, some +fifteen or sixteen of us, in order to go ashore. But, being unable to get +there on account of a sand-bank between us and the land, we threw ourselves +into the water, and waded from this bank to the shore, the distance of a +musket-shot. As soon as we were there, the savages, seeing us within arrow +range, fled into the interior. To pursue them was fruitless, for they are +marvellously swift. All that we could do was to carry away the dead bodies +and bury them near a cross, which had been set up the day before, and then +to go here and there to see if we could get sight of any of them. But it +was time wasted, therefore we came back. Three hours afterwards, they +returned to us on the sea-shore. We discharged at them several shots from +our little brass cannon; and, when they heard the noise, they crouched down +on the ground to avoid the fire. In mockery of us, they beat down the cross +and disinterred the dead, which displeased us greatly, and caused us to go +for them a second time; but they fled, as they had done before. We set up +again the cross, and reinterred the dead, whom they had thrown here and +there amid the heath, where they kindled a fire to burn them. We returned +without any result, as we had done before, well aware that there was +scarcely hope of avenging ourselves this time, and that we should have to +renew the undertaking when it should please God. + +On the 16th of the month, we set out from Port Fortuné, to which we had +given this name on account of the misfortune which happened to us there. +This place is in latitude 41° 20', and some twelve or thirteen leagues from +Mallebarre. [226] + +ENDNOTES: + +210. Clearly a mistake. Champlain here says they "continued their course + north," whereas, the whole context shows that they must have gone + south. + +211. "The sandy point" running out nearly three leagues was evidently the + island of Monomoy, or its representative, which at that time may have + been only a continuation of the main land. Champlain does not + delineate on his map an island, but a sand-bank nearly in the shape of + an isosceles triangle, which extends far to the south-east. Very great + changes have undoubtedly taken place on this part of the coast since + the visit of Champlain. The sand-bar figured by him has apparently + been swept from the south-east round to the south-west, and is perhaps + not very much changed in its general features except as to its + position. "We know from our studies of such shoals," says + Prof. Mitchell, Chief of Physical Hydrography, U. S. Coast Survey, + "that the relative order of banks and beaches remains about the same, + however the system as a whole may change its location."--_Mass. + Harbor Commissioners' Report_. 1873, p. 99. + +212. _Batturier_. This word is an adjective, formed with the proper + termination from the noun, _batture_, which means a bank upon which + the sea beats, reef or sand-bank. _Cap Batturier_ may therefore be + rendered sand-bank cape, or the cape of the sand-banks. _Batturier_ + does not appear in the dictionaries, and was doubtless coined by + Champlain himself, as he makes, farther on, the adjective _truitière_, + in the expression _la rivière truitière_, from the noun, _truite_. + +213. The distances here given appear to be greatly overstated. From Nauset + to the southern point of Monomoy, as it is to-day, the distance is not + more than six leagues. But, as the sea was rough, and they were + apparently much delayed, the distance might naturally enough be + overestimated. + +214. The anchorage was in Chatham Roads, or Old Stage Harbor. + +215. Harding's Beach Point. + +216. They were now in Stage Harbor, in Chatham, to which Champlain, farther + on gives the name of Port Fortuné. + +217. This is the narrow bay that stretches from Morris Island to the north, + parallel with the sea, separated from it only by a sand-bank, and now + reaching beyond Chatham into the town of Orleans. By comparing + Champlain's map of Port Fortuné with modern charts, it will be seen + that the "bay extending back on the north some three leagues" + terminated, in 1606, a little below Chatham Old Harbor. The island on + Champlain's map marked G. was a little above the harbor, but has been + entirely swept away, together with the neck north of it, represented + on Champlain's map as covered with trees. The bay now extends, as we + have stated above, into the town of Orleans. The island G, known in + modern times as Ram Island, disappeared in 1851, although it still + continued to figure on Walling's map of 1858: The two other little + bays mentioned in the text scarcely appear on Champlain's map; and he + may have inadvertently included in this bay the two that are farther + north, viz. Crow's Pond and Pleasant Bay, although they do not fall + within the limits of his map. + +218. _Vide antea_, notes 168, 204, 205. + +219. Indian corn, _Zea mays_, is a plant of American origin. Columbus saw + it among the natives of the West Indies, "a sort of grain they call + Maiz, which was well tasted, bak'd, or dry'd and made into flour."-- + _Vide History of the Life and Actions of Chris. Columbus by his Son + Ferdinand Columbus, Churchill's Voyages_, Vol. II. p. 510. + + It is now cultivated more or less extensively in nearly every part of + the world where the climate is suitable. Champlain is the first who + has left a record of the method of its cultivation in New England, + _vide antea_, p. 64, and of its preservation through the winter. The + Pilgrims, in 1620, found it deposited by the Indians in the ground + after the manner described in the text. Bradford says they found + "heaps of sand newly padled with their hands, which they, digging up, + found in them diverce faire Indean baskets filled with corne, and some + in eares, faire and good, of diverce collours, which seemed to them a + very goodly sight, haveing never seen any such before:"--_His. Plym. + Plantation_, p. 82. Squanto taught the English how to "set it, and + after how to dress and tend it"--_Idem_, p. 100. + + "The women," says Roger Williams, "set or plant, weede and hill, and + gather and barne all the corne and Fruites of the field," and of + drying the corn, he adds, "which they doe carefully upon heapes and + Mats many dayes, they barne it up, covering it up with Mats at night, + and opening when the Sun is hot." + + The following are testimonies as to the use made by the natives of the + Indian corn as food:-- + + "They brought with them in a thing like a Bow-case, which the + principall of them had about his wast, a little of their Corne + powdered to Powder, which put to a little water they eate."--_Mourts + Relation_, London, 1622, Dexter's ed., p. 88. + + "Giving us a kinde of bread called by them _Maizium_."--_Idem_, + p. 101. + + "They seldome or never make bread of their _Indian_ corne, but seeth + it whole like beanes, eating three or four cornes with a mouthfull of + fish or flesh, sometimes eating meate first and cornes after, filling + chinckes with their broth."--_Wood's New Eng. Prospect_, London, 1634. + Prince Society's ed., pp. 75, 76. + + "Nonkekich. _Parch'd meal_, which is a readie very wholesome, food, + which they eate with a little water hot or cold: ... With _spoonfull_ + of this _meale_ and a spoonfull of water from the _Brooke_, have I + made many a good dinner and supper."--_Roger Williams's Key_, London, + 1643, Trumbull's ed., pp. 39, 40. + + "Their food is generally boiled maize, or Indian corn, mixed with + kidney beans or Sometimes without.... Also they mix with the said + pottage several sorts of roots, as Jerusalem artichokes, and ground + nuts, and other roots, and pompions, and squashes, and also several + sorts of nuts or masts, as oak-acorns, chesnuts, walnuts: These husked + and dried, and powdered, they thicken their pottage therewith."-- + _Historical Collections of the Indians_, by Daniel Gookin, 1674, + Boston, 1792. p. 10. + +220. The character of the Indian dress, as here described, does not differ + widely from that of a later period.--_Vide Mourt's Relation_, 1622, + Dexter's ed., p. 135: _Roger Williams's Key_, 1643, Trumbull's ed., + p. 143, _et seq.; History of New England_, by Edward Johnson, 1654, + Poole's ed., pp. 224, 225. + + Champlain's observations were made in the autumn before the approach + of the winter frosts. + + Thomas Morton, writing in 1632, says that the mantle which the women + "use to cover their nakednesse with is much longer then that which the + men use; for as the men have one Deeres skinn, the women haue two soed + together at the full length, and it is so lardge that it trailes after + them, like a great Ladies trane, and in time," he sportively adds, "I + thinke they may have their Pages to beare them up."--_New Eng. + Canaan_, 1632, in Force's Tracts, Vol. II, p. 23. + +221. This conclusion harmonizes with the opinion of Thomas Morton, who says + that the natives of New England are "_sine fide, sine lege, et sine + rege_, and that they have no worship nor religion at all."--_New Eng. + Canaan_, 1632, in Force's Tracts, Vol. II. p. 21. + + Winslow was at first of the same opinion, but afterward saw cause for + changing his mind.--_Vide Winslow's Relation_, 1624, in Young's + Chronicles, P 355. See also _Roger Williams's Key_, Trumbull's ed., + p. 159. + +222. "Their houses, or wigwams," says Gookin, "are built with small poles + fixed in the ground, bent and fastened together with barks of trees, + oval or arborwise on the top. The best sort of their houses are + covered very neatly, tight, and warm with the bark of trees, stripped + from their bodies at such seasons when the sap is up; and made into + great flakes with pressures of weighty timbers, when they are green; + and so becoming dry, they will retain a form suitable for the use they + prepare them for. The meaner sort of wigwams are covered with mats + they make of a kind of bulrush, which are also indifferent tight and + warm, but not so good as the former."--_Vide Historical Collections_, + 1674, Boston, 1792, p. 9. + +223. The construction of the Indian couch, or bed, at a much later period + may be seen by the following excerpts: "So we desired to goe to rest: + he layd us on the bed with himselfe and his wife, they at one end and + we at the other, it being only plancks layd a foot from the ground, + and a thin mat upon them."--_Mourt's Relation_, London. 1622, Dexter's + ed., pp. 107, 108. "In their wigwams, they make a kind of couch or + mattresses, firm and strong, raised about a foot high from the earth; + first covered with boards that they split out of trees; and upon the + boards they spread mats generally, and sometimes bear skins and deer + skins. These are large enough for three or four persons to lodge upon: + and one may either draw nearer or keep at a more distance from the + heat of the fire, as they please; for their mattresses are six or + eight feet broad."--_Gookin's Historical Collections_, 1674, Boston, + 1792, p. 10. + +224. This exploration appears to have extended about as far as Point + Gammon, where, being "near the land," their Indian guide left them, as + stated in the text. + +225. On the map of Port Fortuné, or Chatham, the course of one of these + excursions is marked by a dotted line, to which the reader is + referred.--_Vide_ notes on the map of Port Fortuné. + +226. _Port Fortuné_, perhaps here used, to signify the port of chance or + hazard; referring particularly to the dangers they encountered in + passing round Monomoy to reach it. The latitude of Stage Harbor in + Chatham is 41° 40'. The distance from Mallebarre or Nauset to Port + Fortuné, or Stage Harbor, by water round the Southern point of Monomoy + is at the present time about nine leagues. The distance may possibly + have been greater in 1606, or Champlain may have increased the + distance by giving a wide berth to Monomoy in passing round it. + + + + +CHAPTER XV. + +THE INCLEMENCY OF THE WEATHER NOT PERMITTING US AT THAT TIME TO CONTINUE +OUR DISCOVERIES, WE RESOLVED TO RETURN TO OUR SETTLEMENT. WHAT HAPPENED TO +US UNTIL WE REACHED IT. + + +After having gone some six or seven leagues, we sighted an island, which we +named La Soupçonneuse, [227] because in the distance we had several times +thought it was not an island. Then the wind became contrary, which caused +us to put back to the place whence we had set out, where we stayed two or +three days, no savage during this time presenting himself to us. + +On the 20th, we set out anew and coasted along to the south-west nearly +twelve leagues, [228] where we passed near a river which is small and +difficult of access in consequence of the shoals and rocks at its mouth, +and which I called after my own name. [229] This coast is, so far as we +saw, low and sandy. The wind again grew contrary and very strong, which +caused us to put out to sea, as we were unable to advance on one tack or +the other; it, however, finally abated a little and grew favorable. But all +we could do was to return again to Port Fortuné, where the coast, though +low, is fine and good, yet difficult of access, there being no harbors, +many reefs, and shallow water for the distance of nearly two leagues from +land. The most that we found was seven or eight fathoms in some channels, +which, however, continued only a cable's length, when there were suddenly +only two or three fathoms; but one should not trust the water who has not +well examined the depth with the lead in hand. + +Some hours after we had returned to port, a son of Pont Gravé, named +Robert, lost a hand in firing a musket, which burst in several pieces, but +without injuring any one near him. + +Seeing now the wind continuing contrary, and being unable to put to sea, we +resolved meanwhile to get possession of some savages of this place, and, +taking them to our settlement, put them to grinding corn at the hand-mill, +as punishment for the deadly assault which they had committed on five or +six of our company. But it was very difficult to do this when we were +armed, since, if we went to them prepared to fight, they would turn and +flee into the woods, where they were not to be caught. It was necessary, +accordingly, to have recourse to artifice, and this is what we planned: +when they should come to seek friendship with us, to coax them by showing +them beads and other gewgaws, and assure them repeatedly of our good faith; +then to take the shallop well armed, and conduct on shore the most robust +and strong men we had, each one having a chain of beads and a fathom of +match on his arm; [230] and there, while pretending to smoke with them +(each one having an end of his match lighted so as not to excite suspicion, +it being customary to have fire at the end of a cord in order to light the +tobacco), coax them with pleasing words so as to draw them into the +shallop; and, if they should be unwilling to enter, each one approaching +should choose his man, and, putting the beads about his neck, should at the +same time put the rope on him to draw him by force. But, if they should be +too boisterous, and it should not be possible to succeed, they should be +stabbed, the rope being firmly held; and, if by chance any of them should +get away, there should be men on land to charge upon them with swords. +Meanwhile, the little cannon on our barque were to be kept ready to fire +upon their companions in case they should come to assist them, under cover +of which firearms the shallop could withdraw in security. The plan +above-mentioned was well carried out as it had been arranged. + +Some days after these events had transpired, there came savages by threes +and fours to the shore, making signs to us to go to them. But we saw their +main body in ambuscade under a hillock behind some bushes, and I suppose +that they were only desirous of beguiling us into the shallop in order to +discharge a shower of arrows upon us, and then take to flight. +Nevertheless, Sieur de Poutrincourt did not hesitate to go to them with ten +of us, well equipped and determined to fight them, if occasion offered. We +landed at a place beyond their ambuscade, as we thought, and where they +could not surprise us. There three or four of us went ashore together with +Sieur de Poutrincourt: the others did not leave the shallop, in order to +protect it and be ready for an emergency. We ascended a knoll and went +about the woods to see if we could not discover more plainly the ambuscade. +When they saw us going so unconcernedly to them, they left and went to +other places, which we could not see, and of the four savages we saw only +two, who went away very slowly. As they withdrew, they made signs to us to +take our shallop to another place, thinking that it was not favorable for +the carrying out of their plan. And, when we also saw that they had no +desire to come to us, we re-embarked and went to the place they indicated, +which was the second ambuscade they had made, in their endeavor to draw us +unarmed to themselves by signs of friendship. But this we were not +permitted to do at that time, yet we approached very near them without +seeing this ambuscade, which we supposed was not far off. As our shallop +approached the shore, they took to flight, as also those in ambush, after +whom we fired some musket-shots, since we saw that their intention was only +to deceive us by flattery, in which they were disappointed; for we +recognized clearly what their purpose was, which had only mischief in view. +We retired to our barque after having done all we could. + +On the same day, Sieur de Poutrincourt resolved to return to our settlement +on account of four or five sick and wounded men, whose wounds were growing +worse through lack of salves, of which our surgeon, by a great mistake on +his part, had brought but a small provision, to the detriment of the sick +and our own discomfort, as the stench from their wounds was so great, in a +little vessel like our own, that one could scarcely endure it. Moreover, we +were afraid that they would generate disease. Also we had provisions only +for going eight or ten days farther, however much economy might be +practised; and we knew not whether the return would last as long as the +advance, which was nearly two months. + +At any rate, our resolution being formed, we withdrew, but with the +satisfaction that God had not left unpunished the misdeeds of these +barbarians. [231] We advanced no farther than to latitude 41° 30', which +was only half a degree farther than Sieur de Monts had gone on his voyage +of discovery. We set out accordingly from this harbor. [232] + +On the next day, we anchored near Mallebarre, where we remained until the +28th of the month, when we set sail. On that day the air was very cold, +and there was a little snow. We took a direct course for Norumbegue or +Isle Haute. Heading east-north-east, we were two days at sea without +seeing land, being kept back by bad weather. On the following night, we +sighted the islands, which are between Quinibequy and Norumbegue. [233] +The wind was so strong that we were obliged, to put to sea until daybreak; +but we went so far from land, although we used very little sail, that we +could not see it again until the next day, when we saw Isle Haute, of which +we were abreast. + +On the last day of October, between the Island of Monts Déserts and Cap +Corneille, [234] our rudder broke in several pieces, without our knowing +the reason. Each one expressed his opinion about it. On the following +night, with a fresh breeze, we came among a large number of islands and +rocks, whither the wind drove us; and we resolved to take refuge, if +possible, on the first land we should find. + +We were for some time at the mercy of the wind and sea, with only the +foresail set. But the worst of it was that the night was dark, and we did +not know where we were going; for our barque could not be steered at all, +although we did all that was possible, holding in our hands the sheets of +the foresail, which sometimes enabled us to steer it a little. We kept +continually sounding, to see if it were possible to find a bottom for +anchoring, and to prepare ourselves for what might happen. But we found +none. Finally, as we were going faster than we wished, it was recommended +to put an oar astern together with some men, so as to steer to an island +which we saw, in order to shelter ourselves from the wind. Two other oars +also were put over the sides in the after part of the barque, to assist +those who were steering, in order to make the vessel bear up on one tack +and the other. This device served us so well, that we headed where we +wished, and ran in behind the point of the island we had seen, anchoring in +twenty-one fathoms of water until daybreak, when we proposed to reconnoitre +our position and seek for a place to make another rudder. The wind abated. +At daybreak, we found ourselves near the Isles Rangées, [235] entirely +surrounded by breakers, and we praised God for having preserved us so +wonderfully amid so many perils. + +On the 1st of November, we went to a place which we deemed favorable for +beaching our vessel and repairing our helm. On this day, I landed, and saw +some ice two inches thick, it having frozen perhaps eight or ten days +before. I observed also that the temperature of the place differed very +much from that of Mallebarre and Port Fortuné; for the leaves of the trees +were not yet dead, and had not begun to fall when we set out, while here +they had all fallen, and it was much colder than at Port Fortuné. + +On the next day, as we were beaching our barque, a canoe came containing +Etechemin savages, who told the savage Secondon in our barque that +Iouaniscou, with his companions, had killed some other savages, and carried +off some women as prisoners, whom they had executed near the Island of +Monts Déserts. + +On the 9th of the month, we set out from near Cap Corneille, and anchored +the same day in the little passage [236] of Sainte Croix River. + +On the morning of the next day, we landed our savage with some supplies +which we gave him. He was well pleased and satisfied at having made this +voyage with us, and took away with him some heads of the savages that had +been killed at Port Fortuné. [237] The same day we anchored in a very +pretty cove [238] on the south of the Island of Manan. + +On the 12th of the month, we made sail; and, when under way, the shallop, +which we were towing astern, struck against our barque so violently and +roughly that it made an opening and stove in her upper works, and again in +the recoil broke the iron fastenings of our rudder. At first, we thought +that the first blow had stove in some planks in the lower part, which would +have sunk us; for the wind was so high that all we could do was to carry +our foresail. But finding that the damage was slight, and that there was no +danger, we managed with ropes to repair the rudder as well as we could, so +as to serve us to the end of our voyage. This was not until the 14th of +November, when, at the entrance to Port Royal, we came near being lost on a +point; but God delivered us from this danger as well as from many others to +which we had been exposed. [239] + + +ENDNOTES: + +227. _La Soupçonneuse_, the doubtful, Martha's Vineyard. Champlain and + Poutrincourt, in the little French barque, lying low on the water, + creeping along the shore from Chatham to Point Gammon, could hardly + fail to be doubtful whether Martha's Vineyard were an island or a part + of the main land. Lescarbot, speaking of it, says, _et fut appelée + l'Ile Douteuse_. + +228. Nearly twelve leagues in a southwesterly direction from their + anchorage at Stage Harbor in Chatham would bring them to Nobska Point, + at the entrance of the Vineyard Sound. This was the limit of + Champlain's explorations towards the south. + +229. "Called after my own name." viz. _Rivière de Champlain_.--_Vide_ map, + 1612. This river appears to be a tidal passage connecting the Vineyard + Sound and Buzzard's Bay, having Nouamesset and Uncatena Islands on the + south-west, and Nobska Point, Wood's Boll, and Long Neck on the + north-east. On our Coast Survey Charts, it is called Hadley River. Its + length is nearly two miles, in a winding course. The mouth of this + passage is full of boulders, and in a receding tide the current is + rough and boisterous, and would answer well to the description in the + text, as no other river does on the coast from Chatham to Wood's + Holl. On the small French barque, elevated but a little above the + surface of the water, its source in Buzzard's Bay could not be + discovered, especially if they passed round Nobska Point, under the + lee of which they probably obtained a view of the "shoals, and rocks" + which they saw at the mouth of the river. + +230. _A fathom of match on his arm_. This was a rope, made of the tow of + hemp or flax, loosely twisted, and prepared to retain the fire, so + that, when once lighted, it would burn till the whole was consumed. It + was employed in connection with the match-lock, the arm then in common + use. The wheel-lock followed in order of time, which was discharged by + means of a notched wheel of steel, so arranged that its friction, when + in motion, threw sparks of fire into the pan that contained the + powder. The snaphance was a slight improvement upon the wheel-lock. + The flint-lock followed, now half a century since superseded by the + percussion lock and cap. + +231. They did not capture any of the Indians, to be reduced to a species of + slavery, as they intended; but, as will appear further on, inhumanly + butchered several of them, which would seem to have been an act of + revenge rather than of punishment. The intercourse of the French with + the natives of Cape Cod was, on the whole, less satisfactory than that + with the northern tribes along the shores of Maine, New Brunswick, and + Nova Scotia. With the latter they had no hostile conflicts whatever, + although the Indians were sufficiently implacable and revengeful + towards their enemies. Those inhabiting the peninsula of Cape Cod, and + as far north as Cape Anne, were more suspicious, and had apparently + less clear conceptions of personal rights, especially the rights of + property. Might and right were to them identical. Whatever they + desired, they thought they had a right to have, if they had the power + or wit to obtain it. The French came in contact with only two of the + many subordinate tribes that were in possession of the peninsula; + viz., the Monomoyicks at Chatham, and the Nausets at Eastham. The + conflict in both instances grew out of an attempt on the part of the + natives to commit a petty theft. But it is quite possible that the + invasion of their territory by strangers, an unpardonable offence + among civilized people, may have created a feeling of hostility that + found a partial gratification in stealing their property; and, had not + this occasion offered, the stifled feeling of hostility may have + broken out in some other form. In general, they were not subsequently + unfriendly in their intercourse with the English. The Nausets were, + however, the same that sent a shower of arrows upon the Pilgrims in + 1620, at the place called by them the "First Encounter," and not more + than three miles from the spot where the same tribe, in 1605, had + attacked the French, and Slain one of De Monts's men. It must, + however, be said that, beside the invasion of their country, the + Pilgrims had, some days before, rifled the granaries of the natives + dwelling a few miles north of the Nausets, and taken away without + leave a generous quantity of their winter's supply of corn; and this + may have inspired them with a desire to be rid of visitors who helped + themselves to their provisions, the fruit of their summer's toil, + their dependence for the winter already upon them, with so little + ceremony and such unscrupulous selfishness; for such it must have + appeared to the Nausets in their savage and unenlightened state. It is + to be regretted that these excellent men, the Pilgrims, did not more + fully comprehend the moral character of their conduct in this + instance. They lost at the outset a golden opportunity for impressing + upon the minds of the natives the great practical principle enunciated + by our Lord, the foundation of all good neighborhood, [Greek: Panta + oun osa an thelaete ina poiosin hymin hoi anthropoi, houto kai hymeis + poieite autois. Matth]. vii 12.--_Vide Bradford's Hist. Plym. + Plantation_, pp. 82, 83; _Mourt's Relation_, London, 1622, Dexter's + ed., pp. 21, 22, 30, 31, 55. + +232. The latitude of Nobska Point, the most southern limit of their voyage, + is 41° 31', while the latitude of Nauset Harbor, the southern limit of + that of De Monts on the previous year, 1605, is 41° 49'. They + consequently advanced but 18', or eighteen nautical miles, further + south than they did the year before. Had they commenced this year's + explorations where those of the preceding terminated, as Champlain had + advised, they might have explored the whole coast as far as Long + Island Sound. _Vide antea_, pp. 109, 110. + +233. Between the Kennebec and Penobscot. + +234. _Vide antea_, note 177. + +235. _Isles Rangées_, the small islands along the coast south-west of + Machias. _Vide_ map of 1612. + +236. _Petit passage de la Rivière Saincte Croix_, the southern strait + leading into Eastport Harbor. This anchorage appears to have been in + Quoddy Roads between Quoddy Head and Lubeck. + +237. In reporting the stratagem resorted to for decoying the Indians into + the hands of the French at Port Fortuné, Champlain passes over the + details of the bloody encounter, doubtless to spare himself and the + reader the painful record; but its results are here distinctly + stated. Compare _antea_, pp. 132, 133. + +238. Sailing from Quoddy Head to Annapolis Bay, they would in their course + pass round the northern point of the Grand Manan; and they probably + anchored in Whale Cove, or perhaps in Long Island Bay, a little + further south. Champlain's map is so oriented that both of these bays + would appear to be on the south of the Grand Manan. _Vide_ map of + 1612. + +239. Champlain had now completed his survey south of the Bay of Fundy. He + had traced the shore-line with its sinuosities and its numberless + islands far beyond the two distinguished headlands, Cape Sable and + Cape Cod, which respectively mark the entrance to the Gulf of Maine. + The priority of these observations, particularly with reference to the + habits, mode of life, and character of the aborigines, invests them + with an unusual interest and value. Anterior to the visits of + Champlain, the natives on this coast had come in contact with + Europeans but rarely and incidentally, altogether too little + certainly, if we except those residing on the southern coast of Nova + Scotia, to have any modifying effect upon their manners, customs, or + mode of life. What Champlain reports, therefore, of the Indians, is + true of them in their purely savage state, untouched by any influences + of European civilization. This distinguishes the record, and gives to + it a special importance. + + + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +RETURN FROM THE FOREGOING DISCOVERIES, AND WHAT TRANSPIRED DURING THE +WINTER. + +Upon our arrival, Lescarbot, who had remained at the settlement, assisted +by the others who had stayed there, welcomed us with a humorous +entertainment. [240] + +Having landed and had time to take breath, each one began to make little +gardens, I among the rest attending to mine, in order in the spring to sow +several kinds of seeds which had been brought from France, and which grew +very well in all the gardens. + +Sieur de Poutrincourt, moreover, had a water-mill built nearly a league and +a half from our settlement, near the point where grain had been planted. +This mill [241] was built at a fall, on a little river which is not +navigable on account of the large number of rocks in it, and which falls +into a small lake. In this place, there is such an abundance of herring in +their season that shallops could be loaded with them, if one were to take +the trouble to bring the requisite apparatus. The savages also of this +region come here sometimes to fish. A quantity of charcoal was made by us +for our forge. During the winter, in order not to remain idle, I undertook +the building of a road along the wood to a little, river or brook, which we +named La Truitière, [242] there being many trout there. I asked Sieur de +Poutrincourt for two or three men, which he gave me to assist in making +this passage-way. I got along so well that in a little while I had the road +through. It extends through to trout-brook, and measures nearly two +thousand paces. It served us as a walk under the shelter of the trees, +which I had left on both sides. This led Sieur de Poutrincourt to determine +to make another through the woods, in order that we might go straight to +the mouth of Port Royal, it being a distance of nearly three leagues and a +half by land from our settlement. He had this commenced and continued for +about half a league from La Truitière; but he did not finish it, as the +undertaking was too laborious, and he was occupied by other things at the +time more necessary. Some time after our arrival, we saw a shallop +containing savages, who told us that a savage, who was one of our friends, +had been killed by those belonging to the place whence they came, which was +Norumbegue, in revenge for the killing of the men of Norumbegue and +Quinibequy by Iouaniscou, also a savage, and his followers, as I have +before related; and that some Etechemins had informed the savage Secondon, +who was with us at that time. + +The commander of the shallop was the savage named Ouagimou, who was on +terms of friendship with Bessabez, chief of the river Norumbegue, of whom +he asked the body of Panounias, [243] who had been killed. The latter +granted it to him, begging him to tell his friends that he was very sorry +for his death, and assuring him that it was without his knowledge that he +had been killed, and that, inasmuch as it was not his fault, he begged him +to tell them that he desired they might continue to live as friends. This +Ouagimou promised to do upon his return. He said to us that he was very +uneasy until he got away from them, whatever friendship they might show +him, since they were liable to change; and he feared that they would treat +him in the same manner as they had the one who had been killed. +Accordingly, he did not tarry long after being dismissed. He took the body +in his shallop from Norumbegue to our settlement, a distance of fifty +leagues. + +As soon as the body was brought on shore, his relatives and friends began +to shout by his side, having painted their entire face with black, which is +their mode of mourning. After lamenting much, they took a quantity of +tobacco and two or three dogs and other things belonging to the deceased, +and burned them some thousand paces from our settlement on the +sea-shore. Their cries continued until they returned to their cabin. + +The next day they took the body of the deceased and wrapped it in a red +covering, which Mabretou, chief of this place, urgently implored me to give +him, since it was handsome and large. He gave it to the relatives of the +deceased, who thanked me very much for it. After thus; wrapping up the +body, they decorated it with several kinds of _matachiats_; that is, +strings of beads and bracelets of diverse colors. They painted the face, +and put on the head many feathers and other things, the finest they had. +Then they placed the body on its knees between two sticks, with another +under the arms to sustain it. Around the body were the mother, wife, and +others of the relatives and friends of the deceased, both women and girls, +howling like dogs. + +While the women and girls were shrieking, the savage named Mabretou made an +address to his companions on the death of the deceased, urging all to take +vengeance for the wickedness and treachery committed by the subjects of +Bessabez, and to make war upon them as speedily as possible. All agreed to +do so in the spring. + +After the harangue was finished and the cries had ceased, they carried the +body of the deceased to another cabin. After smoking tobacco together, +they wrapped it in an elk-skin likewise; and, binding it very securely, +they kept it until there should be a larger number of savages present, from +each one of whom the brother of the deceased expected to receive presents, +it being their custom to give them to those who have lost fathers, mothers, +wives, brothers, or sisters. + +On the night of the 26th of December, there was a southeast wind, which +blew down several trees. On the last day of December, it began to snow, +which continued until the morning of the next day. On the both of January +following, 1607, Sieur de Poutrincourt, desiring to ascend the river +Équille, [244] found it at a distance of some two leagues from our +settlement sealed with ice, which caused him to return, not being able to +advance any farther. On the 8th of February, some pieces of ice began to +flow down from the upper part of the river into the harbor, which only +freezes along the shore. On the both of May following, it snowed all night; +and, towards the end of the month, there were heavy hoar-frosts, which +lasted until the 10th or 12th of June, when all the trees were covered with +leaves, except the oaks, which do not leaf out until about the 15th. The +winter was not so severe as on the preceding years, nor did the snow +continue so long on the ground. It rained very often, so that the savages +suffered a severe famine, owing to the small quantity of snow. Sieur de +Poutrincourt supported a part of them who were with us; namely, Mabretou, +his wife and children, and some others. + +We spent this winter very pleasantly, and fared generously by means of the +ORDRE DE BON TEMPS, which I introduced. This all found useful for their +health, and more advantageous than all the medicines that could have been +used. By the rules of the order, a chain was put, with some little +ceremonies, on the neck of one of our company, commissioning him for the +day to go a-hunting. The next day it was conferred upon another, and thus +in succession. All exerted themselves to the utmost to see who would do the +best and bring home the finest game. We found this a very good arrangement, +as did also the savages who were with us. [245] + +There were some cases of _mal de la terre_ among us, which was, however, +not so violent as in the previous years. Nevertheless, seven died from it, +and another from an arrow wound, which he had received from the savages at +Port Fortuné. [246] + +Our surgeon, named Master Estienne, opened some of the bodies, as we did +the previous years, and found almost all the interior parts affected. Eight +or ten of the sick got well by spring. + +At the beginning of March and of April, all began to prepare gardens, so as +to plant seeds in May, which is the proper time for it. They grew as well +as in France, but were somewhat later. I think France is at least a month +and a half more forward. As I have stated, the time to plant is in May, +although one can sometimes do so in April; yet the seeds planted then do +not come forward any faster than those planted in May, when the cold can no +longer damage the plants except those which are very tender, since there +are many which cannot endure the hoar-frosts, unless great care and +attention be exercised. + +On the 24th of May, we perceived a small barque [247] of six or seven tons' +burthen, which we sent men to reconnoitre; and it was found to be a young +man from St. Malo, named Chevalier, who brought letters from Sieur de Monts +to Sieur de Poutrincourt, by which he directed him to bring back his +company to France. [248] He also announced to us the birth of Monseigneur, +the Duke of Orleans, to our delight, in honor of which event we made +bonfires and chanted the _Te Deum_. [249] + +Between the beginning and the 20th of June, some thirty or forty savages +assembled in this place in order to make war upon the Almouchiquois, and +revenge the death of Panounias, who was interred by the savages according +to their custom, who gave afterwards a quantity of peltry to a brother of +his.[250] The presents being made, all of them set out from this place on +the 29th of June for Choüacoet, which is the country of the Almouchiquois, +to engage in the war. + +Some days after the arrival of the above Chevalier, Sieur de Poutrincourt +sent him to the rivers St. John [251] and St. Croix [252] to trade for +furs. But he did not permit him to go without men to bring back the barque, +since some had reported that he desired to return to France with the vessel +in which he had come, and leave us in our settlement. Lescarbot was one of +those who accompanied him, who up to this time had not left Port Royal. +This is the farthest he went, only fourteen or fifteen leagues beyond Port +Royal. + +While awaiting the return of Chevalier, Sieur de Poutrincourt went to the +head of Baye Françoise in a shallop with seven or eight men. Leaving the +harbor and heading northeast a quarter east for some twenty-five leagues +along the coast, we arrived at a cape where Sieur de Poutrincourt desired +to ascend a cliff more than thirty fathoms high, in doing which he came +near losing his life. For, having reached the top of the rock which is very +narrow, and which he had ascended with much difficulty, the summit trembled +beneath him. The reason was that, in course of time, moss had gathered +there four or five feet in thickness, and, not being solid, trembled when +one was on top of it, and very often when one stepped on a stone three or +four others fell down. Accordingly, having gone up with difficulty, he +experienced still greater in coming down, although some sailors, men very +dexterous in climbing, carried him a hawser, a rope of medium size, by +means of which he descended, This place was named Cap de Poutrincourt, +[253] and is in latitude 45° 40'. + +We went as far as the head of this bay, but saw nothing but certain white +stones suitable for making lime, yet they are found only in small +quantities. We saw also on some islands a great number of gulls. We +captured as many of them as we wished. We made the tour of the bay, in +order to go to the Port aux Mines where I had previously been, [254] and +whither I conducted Sieur de Poutrincourt, who collected some little pieces +of copper with great difficulty. All this bay has a circuit of perhaps +twenty leagues, with a little river at its head, which is very sluggish and +contains but little water. There are many other little brooks, and some +places where there are good harbors at high tide, which rises here five +fathoms. In one of these harbors three or four leagues north of Cap de +Poutrincourt, we found a very old cross all covered with moss and almost +all rotten, a plain indication that before this there had been Christians +there. All of this country is covered with dense forests, and with some +exceptions is not very attractive. [255] + +From the Port aux Mines [256] we returned to our settlement. In this bay +there are strong tidal currents running in a south-westerly direction. + +On the 12th of July, Ralleau, secretary of Sieur de Monts, arrived with +three others in a shallop from a place called Niganis, [257] distant from +Port Royal some hundred and sixty or hundred and seventy leagues, +confirming the report which Chevalier had brought to Sieur de Poutrincourt. + +On the 3d of July, [258] three barques were fitted out to send the men and +supplies, which were at our settlement, to Canseau, distant one hundred and +fifteen leagues from our settlement, and in latitude 45° 20', where the +vessel [259] was engaged in fishing, which was to carry us back to France. + +Sieur de Poutrincourt sent back all his companions, but remained with eight +others at the settlement, so as to carry to France some grain not yet quite +ripe. [260] + +On the 10th of August, Mabretou arrived from the war, who told us that he +had been at Choüacoet, and had killed twenty savages and wounded ten or +twelve; also that Onemechin, chief of that place, Marchin, and one other, +had been killed by Sasinou, chief of the river of Quinibequy, who was +afterwards killed by the companions of Onemechin and Marchin. All this war +was simply on account of the savage Panounias, one of our friends who, as I +have said above, had been killed at Norumbegue by the followers of +Onemechin and Marchin. At present, the chiefs in place of Onemechin, +Marchin, and Sasinou are their sons: namely, for Sasinou, Pememen; Abriou +for his father, Marchin; and for Onemechin, Queconsicq. The two latter were +wounded by the followers of Mabretou, who seized them under pretence of +friendship, as is their fashion, something which both sides have to guard +against. [261] + +ENDNOTES: + +240. Lescarbot, the author of a History of New France often referred to in + our notes, published a volume entitled "LES MUSES DE LA NOUVELLE + FRANCE," in which may be found the play entitled LE THEATRE DE + NEPTUNE, which he composed to celebrate the return of this expedition. + +241. The mill is represented on Champlain's map of Port Royal as situated + on the stream which he calls _Rivière du Moulin_, the River of the + Mill. This is Allen River; and the site of the mill was a short + distance south-east of the "point where corn had been planted," which + was on the spot now occupied by the village of Annapolis. + +242. _Vide antea_, note 212. see also the map of Port Royal, where the road + is delineated, p. 24. + +243. This Indian Panounias and his wife had accompanied De Monts in 1605, + on his expedition to Cape Cod.--_Vide_ antea, p. 55. + +244. Now the Annapolis River. + +245. The conceit of this novel order was a happy one, as it served to + dispel the gloom of a long winter in the forests of La Cadie, as well + as to improve the quality and variety of their diet. The _noblesse_, + or gentlemen of the party, were fifteen, who served in turn and for a + single day as caterer or steward, the turn of each recurring once in + fifteen days. It was their duty to add to the ordinary fare such + delicate fish or game as could be captured or secured by each for his + particular day. They always had some delicacy at breakfast; but the + dinner was the great banquet, when the most imposing ceremony was + observed. + +246. Champlain does not inform us how many of Poutrincourt's party were + killed in the affray at Chatham. He mentions one as killed on the + spot. He speaks of carrying away the "dead bodies" for burial. He also + says they made a "deadly assault" upon "five or six of our company;" + and another appears to have died of his wounds after their return to + Port Royal, as stated in the text. + +247. _Une petite barque_. The French barque was a small vessel or large + boat, rigged with two masts; and those employed by De Monts along our + coast varied from six to eighteen tons burden, and must not be + confounded with our modern bark, which is generally much larger. + + The _vaisseau_, often mentioned by Champlain, included all large + vessels, those used for fishing, the fur-trade, and the transportation + of men and supplies for the colony. + + The _chaloupe_ was a row-boat of convenient size for penetrating + shallow places, was dragged behind the barque in the explorations of + our coast, and used for minor investigations of rivers and estuaries. + + The _patache_, an advice-boat, is rarely used by Champlain, and then + in the place of the shallop. + +248. It seems that young Chevalier had come out in the "Jonas," the same + ship that had brought out Poutrincourt, Lescarbot, and others, the + year before. It had stopped at Canseau to fish for cod. It brought the + unwelcome news that the company of De Monts had been broken up; that + the Hollanders, conducted by a "French traitor named La Jeunesse," had + destroyed the fur-trading establishments on the St. Lawrence, which + rendered it impracticable to sustain, as heretofore, the expenses of + the company. The monopoly of the fur-trade, granted to De Monts for + ten years, had been rescinded by the King's Council. "We were very + sad," says Lescarbot, "to see so fine and holy an undertaking broken + off, and that so many labors and perils endured had resulted in + nothing: and that the hope of establishing there the name of God and + the Catholic Faith had disappeared. Notwithstanding, after M. de + Poutrincourt had a long while mused hereupon, he said that, although + he should have none to come with him, except his family, he would not + forsake the enterprise."--_His. Nou. France_, par M. Lescarbot. + Paris, 1612. pp. 591-2. + +249. On the 16th of April, 1607, was born the second son of Henry IV. by + Marie de Medicis, who received the title, Le Duc d'Orléans. In France, + public rejoicings were universal. On the 22d of the month, he was + invested with the insignia of the Order of St. Michael and the Holy + Ghost with great pomp, on which occasion a banquet was given by the + King in the great hall at Fontainebleau, and in the evening the park + was illuminated by bonfires and a pyrotechnic display, which was + witnessed by a vast concourse of people. The young prince was baptized + privately by the Cardinal de Gondy, but the state ceremonies of his + christening were delayed, and appear never to have taken place: he + died in the fifth year of his age, never having received any Christian + name.--_Vide the Life of Marie de Medicis_, by Miss Pardoe, London, + 1852, Vol. I. p. 416; _Memoirs of the Duke of Sully_, Lennox, trans., + Phila., 1817, Vol. IV. p. 140. In New France, the little colony at + Port Royal attested their loyalty by suitable manifestations of + joy. "As the day declined," Says Lescarbot, "we made bonfires to + celebrate the birth of Monseigneur le Duc d'Orléans, and caused our + cannon and falconets to thunder forth again, accompanied with plenty + of musket-shots, having before for this purpose chanted a _Te Deum_." + --_Vide His. Nou. France_, Paris, 1612, p.594. + +250. Lescarbot says that about four hundred set out for the war against the + Almouchiquois, at Choüacoet, or Saco. The savages were nearly two + months in assembling themselves together. Mabretou had sent out his + two sons, Actaudin and Actaudinech, to summon them to come to Port + Royal as a rendezvous. They came from the river St. John, and from the + region of Gaspé. Their purpose was accomplished, as will appear in the + sequel. + +251. At St. John, they visited the cabin of Secondon, the Sagamore, with + whom they bartered for some furs. Lescarbot, who was in the + expedition, says, "The town of Ouïgoudy was a great enclosure upon a + hill, compassed about with high and small trees, tied one against + another; and within it many cabins, great and small, one of which was + as large as a market-hall, wherein many households resided." In the + cabin of Secondon. they saw some eighty or a hundred savages, all + nearly naked. They were celebrating a feast which they call _Tabagie_. + Their chief made his warriors pass in review before his guests.--_Vide + His. Nou. France_, par M. Lescarbot. Paris, 1612. p. 598. + +252. They found sack at St. Croix that had been left there by De Monts's + colony three years before, of which they drank. Casks were still lying + in the deserted court-yard: and others had been used as fuel by + mariners, who had chanced to come there. + +253. De Laet's map has C. de Poutrincourt; the map of the English and + French Commissaries, C. Fendu or split Cape. Halliburton has Split + Cape, so likewise has the Admiralty map of 1860. + + It is situated at the entrance of the Basin of Mines, and about eight + miles southwest of Parrsborough. The point of this cape is in latitude + 45° 20'. + +254. _Vide antea_, p. 26. + +255. The author is here speaking of the country about the Basin of Mines. + The river at the head of the bay is the Shubenacadie. It is not easy + to determine where the moss-covered cross was found. The distance from + Cap de Poutrincourt is indefinite, and the direction could not have + been exactly north. There is too much uncertainty to warrant even a + conjecture as to its locality. + +256. The port aux Mines is Advocate's Harbor.--_Vide antea_, p. 26, and + note 67. + +257. Niganis is a small Bay in the Island of Cape Breton, south of Cape + North: by De Laet called _Ninganis_; English, and French Commissaries, + _Niganishe_; modern maps, _Niganish_. + +258. The _3d of July_ was doubtless an error of the printer for the 30th, + as appears from the later date in the preceding paragraph, and the + statement of Lescarbot, that he left on the 30th of July. He says they + had one large barque, two small ones, and a shallop. One of the small + ones was sent before, while the other two followed on the 30th; and he + adds that Poutrincourt remained eleven days longer to await the + ripening of their grain, which agrees with Champlain's subsequent + statement, that he left with Poutrincourt on the 11th of + August.--_Vide His. Nou. France_, 1612, p. 603. + +259. The "Jonas."--_Vide antea_, p. 146. + +260. _Vide antea_, note 258. + +261. The implacable character of the American Indian is well illustrated in + this skirmish which took place at Saco. The old chief Mabretou, whose + life had been prolonged through several generations, had inspired his + allies to revenge, and had been present at the conflict. The Indian + Panounias had been killed in an affray, the particular cause of which + is not stated. To avenge his death, many lives were lost on both + sides. The two chiefs of Saco were slain, and in turn the author of + their death perished by the hand of their friends. Lescarbot informs + us that Champdoré, under Poutrincourt, subsequently visited Saco, and + concluded a formal peace between the belligerent parties, emphasizing + its importance by impressive forms, and ceremonies. + + + + +CHAPTER XVII. + +THE SETTLEMENT ABANDONED.--RETURN TO FRANCE OF SIEUR DE POUTRINCOURT AND +ALL HIS COMPANY. + +On the 11th of August, we set out from our settlement in a shallop, and +coasted along as far as Cape Fourchu, where I had previously been. + +Continuing our course along the coast as far as Cap de la Hève, where we +first landed with Sieur de Monts, on the 8th of May, 1604, [262] we +examined the coast from this place as far as Canseau, a distance of nearly +sixty leagues. This I had not yet done, and I observed it very carefully, +making a map of it as of the other coasts. + +Departing from Cap de la Hève, we went as far as Sesambre, an island so +called by some people from St. Malo, [263] and distant fifteen leagues from +La Hève. Along the route are a large number of islands, which we named Les +Martyres, [264] since some Frenchmen were once killed there by the savages. +These islands lie in several inlets and bays. In one of them is a river +named St. Marguerite, [265] distant seven leagues from Sesambre, which is +in latitude 44° 25'. The islands and coasts are thickly covered with pines, +firs, birches, and other trees of inferior quality. Fish and also fowl are +abundant. + +After leaving Sesambre, we passed a bay which is unobstructed, of seven or +eight leagues in extent, with no islands except at the extremity, where is +the mouth of a small river, containing but little water. [266] Then, +heading north-east a quarter east, we arrived at a harbor distant eight +leagues from Sesambre, which is very suitable for vessels of a hundred or a +hundred and twenty tons. At its entrance is an island from which one can +walk to the main land at low tide. We named this place Port Saincte +Helaine, [267] which is in latitude 44° 40' more or less. + +From this place we proceeded to a bay called La Baye de Toutes Isles, [268] +of some fourteen or fifteen leagues in extent, a dangerous place on account +of the presence of banks, shoals, and reefs. The country presents a very +unfavorable appearance, being filled with the same kind of trees which I +have mentioned before. Here we encountered bad weather. + +Hence we passed on near a river, six leagues distant, called Rivière de +l'Isle Verte,[269] there being a green island at its entrance. This short +distance which we traversed is filled with numerous rocks extending nearly +a league out to sea, where the breakers are high, the latitude being 45° +15'. + +Thence we went to a place where there is an inlet, with two or three +islands, and a very good harbor, [270] distant three leagues from l'Isle +Verte. We passed also by several islands near and in a line with each +other, which we named Isles Rangées, [271] and which are distant six or +seven leagues from l'Isle Verte. Afterwards we passed by another bay [272] +containing several islands, and proceeded to a place where we found a +vessel engaged in fishing between some islands, which are a short distance +from the main land, and distant four leagues from the Rangées. This place +we named Port de Savalette, [273] the name of the master of the vessel +engaged in fishing, a Basque, who entertained us bountifully; and was very +glad to see us, since there were savages there who purposed some harm to +him, which we prevented. [274] + +Leaving this place, we arrived on the 27th of the month at Canseau, distant +six leagues from Port de Savalette, having passed on our way a large number +of islands. At Canseau, we found that the three barques had arrived at port +in safety. Champdoré and Lescarbot came out to receive us. We also found +the vessel ready to sail, having finished its fishing and awaiting only +fair weather to return. Meanwhile, we had much enjoyment among these +islands, where we found the greatest possible quantity of raspberries. + +All the coast which we passed along from Cape Sable to this place is +moderately high and rocky, in most places bordered by numerous islands and +breakers, which extend out to sea nearly two leagues in places, and are +very unfavorable for the approach of vessels. Yet there cannot but be good +harbors and roadsteads along the coasts and islands, if they were explored. +As to the country, it is worse and less promising than in other places +which we had seen, except on some rivers or brooks, where it is very +pleasant; but there is no doubt that the winter in these regions is cold, +lasting from six to seven months. + +The harbor of Canseau [275] is a place surrounded by islands, +to which the approach is very difficult, except in fair weather, on account +of the rocks and breakers about it. Fishing, both green and dry, is carried +on here. + +From this place to the Island of Cape Breton, which is in latitude 45° 45' +and 14° 50' of the deflection of the magnetic needle, [276] it is eight +leagues, and to Cape Breton twenty-five. Between the two there is a large +bay, [277] extending Some nine or ten leagues into the interior and making +a passage between the Island of Cape Breton and the main land through to +the great Bay of St. Lawrence, by which they go to Gaspé and Isle Percée, +where fishing is carried on. This passage along the Island of Cape Breton +is very narrow. Although there is water enough, large vessels do not pass +there at all on account of the strong currents and the impetuosity of the +tides which prevail. This we named Le Passage Courant, [278] and it is in +latitude 45° 45'. + +The Island of Cape Breton is of a triangular shape, with a circuit of about +eighty leagues. Most of the country is mountainous, yet in some parts very +pleasant. In the centre of it there is a kind of lake, [279] where the sea +enters by the north a quarter north-west, and also by the south a quarter +Southeast. [280] Here are many islands filled with plenty of game, and +shell-fish of various kinds, including oysters, which, however, are not of +very good flavor. In this place there are two harbors, where fishing is +carried on; namely, Le Port aux Anglois, [281] distant from Cape Breton +some two or three leagues, and Niganis, eighteen or twenty leagues north a +quarter north-west. The Portuguese once made an attempt to settle this +island, and spent a winter here; but the inclemency of the season and the +cold caused them to abandon their settlement. + +On the 3rd of September, we set out from Canseau. On the 4th, we were off +Sable Island. On the 6th, we reached the Grand Bank, where the catching of +green fish is carried on, in latitude 45° 30'. On the 26th, we entered the +sound near the shores of Brittany and England, in sixty-five fathoms of +water and in latitude 49° 30'. On the 28th, we put in at Roscou, [282] in +lower Brittany, where we were detained by bad weather until the last day of +September, when, the wind coming round favorable, we put to sea in order to +pursue our route to St. Malo, [283] which formed the termination of these +voyages, in which God had guided us without shipwreck or danger. + + +END OF THE VOYAGES FROM THE YEAR 1604 TO 1608. + +ENDNOTES: + +262. _Vide antea_, p. 9 and note 22. + +263. Sesambre. This name was probably suggested by the little islet, + _Cézembre_, one of several on which are military works for the defence + of St. Malo. On De Laet's map of 1633, it is written _Sesembre_; on + that of Charlevoix. 1744, _Sincenibre_. It now appears on the + Admiralty maps corrupted into Sambro. There is a cape and a harbor + near this island which bear the same name. + +264. The islands stretching along from Cap de la Hève to Sambro Island are + called the _Martyres Iles_ on De Laet's map, 1633. + +265. The bay into which this river empties still retains the name of + St. Margaret. + +266. Halifax Harbor. Its Indian name was Chebucto, written on the map of + the English and French Commissaries _Shebûctû_. On Champlain's map, + 1612, as likewise on that of De Laet, 1633, it is called "_Baye + Senne_," perhaps from _saine_, signifying the unobstructed bay. + +267. Eight leagues from the Island Sesambre or Sambro Island would take + them to Perpisawick Inlet, which is doubtless _Le Port Saincte + Helaine_ of Champlain. The latitude of this harbor is 44° 41', + differing but a single minute from that of the text, which is + extraordinary, the usual variation being from ten to thirty minutes. + +268. Nicomtau Bay is fifteen leagues from Perpisawick Inlet, but _La Baye + de Toutes Isles_ is, more strictly speaking, an archipelago, extending + along the coast, say from Clam Bay to Liscomb Point, as may be seen by + reference to Champlain's map, 1612, and that of De Laet, 1633, + Cruxius, 1660, and of Charlevoix, 1744. The north-eastern portion of + this archipelago is now called, according to Laverdière, Island Bay. + +269. _Rivière de l'Isle Verte_, or Green Island River, is the River + St. Mary; and Green Island is Wedge Island near its mouth. The + latitude at the mouth of the river is 45° 3'. This little island is + called _I. Verte_ on De Laet's map, and likewise on that of + Charlevoix; on the map of the English and French Commissaries, Liscomb + or Green Island. + +270. This inlet has now the incongruous name of Country Harbor: the three + islands at its mouth are Harbor, Goose, and Green Islands. The inlet + is called Mocodome on Charlevoix's map. + +271. There are several islets on the east of St. Catharine's River, near + the shore, which Laverdière suggests are the _Isles Rangées_. They + are exceedingly small, and no name is given them on the Admiralty + charts. + +272. Tor Bay. + +273. _Le Port de Savalette_. Obviously White Haven, which is four leagues + from the Rangées and six from Canseau, as stated in the text. + Lescarbot gives a very interesting account of Captain Savalette, the + old Basque fisherman, who had made forty-two voyages into these + waters. He had been eminently successful in fishing, having taken + daily, according to his own account, fifty crowns' worth of codfish, + and expected his voyage would yield, ten thousand francs. His vessel + was of eighty tons burden, and could take in a hundred thousand dry + codfish. He was well known, and a great favorite with the voyagers to + this coast. He was from St. Jean de Luz, a small seaport town in the + department of the Lower Pyrenees in France, near the borders of Spain, + distinguished even at this day for its fishing interest. + +274. The Indians were in the habit of selecting from day to day the best of + Savalette's fish when they came in, and appropriating them to their + own use, _nolens volens_. + +275. _Canseau_. Currency has been given to an idle fancy that this name was + derived from that of a French navigator, but it has been abundantly + disproved by the Abbé Laverdière. It is undoubtedly a word of Indian + origin. + +276. The variation of the magnetic needle in 1871, fifteen miles South of + the Harbor of Canseau, was, according to the Admiralty charts, 23 + degrees west. The magnetic needle was employed in navigation as early + as the year 1200, and its variation had been discovered before the + time of Columbus. But for a long period its variation was supposed to + be fixed; that is to say, was supposed to be always the same in the + same locality. A few years before Champlain made his voyages to + America, it was discovered that its variation in Paris was not fixed, + but that it changed from year to year. If Champlain was aware of this, + his design in noting its exact variation, as he did at numerous points + on our coast, may have been to furnish data for determining at some + future day whether the variation were changeable here as well as in + France. But, whether he was aware of the discovery then recently made + in Paris or not, he probably intended, by noting the declination of + the needle, to indicate his longitude, at least approximately. + +277. Chedabucto Bay. + +278. The Strait of Canseau. Champlain gives it on his map, 1612. _Pasage du + glas;_ De Laet, 1633, _Passage du glas;_ Creuxius, 1660, Fretum + Campseium; Charlevoix, 1744, _Passage de Canceau_. It appears from the + above that the early name was soon superseded by that which it now + bears. + +279. Now called _La Bras d'Or_, The Golden Arm. + +280. There is, in fact, no passage of La Bras d'Or on the south-west; and + Champlain corrects his error, as may be seen by reference to his map + of 1612. It may also be stated that the sea enters from the + north-east. _Nordouest_ in the original is here probably a + typographical error for _nordest_. There are, indeed, two passages, + both on the north-east, distinguished as the Great and the Little Bras + d'Or. + +281. _Le Port aux Anglois_, the Harbor of the English. On De Laet's map, + Port aux Angloix. This is the Harbor of Louisburgh, famous in the + history of the Island of Cape Breton. + +282. Roscofs, a small seaport town. On Mercator's Atlas of 1623, it is + written Roscou, as in the text. + +283. According to Lescarbot, they remained at St. Malo eight days, when + they went in a barque to Honfleur, narrowly escaping + shipwreck. Poutrincourt proceeded to Paris, where he exhibited to + Henry IV. corn, wheat, rye, barley, and oats, products of the colony + which he had so often promised to cherish, but whose means of + subsistence he had now nevertheless ungraciously taken away. + Poutrincourt also presented to him five _oustards_, or wild geese, + which he had bred from the shell. The king was greatly delighted with + them, and had them preserved at Fontainebleau. These exhibitions of + the products of New France had the desired effect upon the generous + heart of Henry IV.; and De Monts's monopoly of the fur-trade was + renewed for one year, to furnish some slight aid in establishing his + colonies in New France. + + + + +THE VOYAGES +TO THE +GREAT RIVER ST. LAWRENCE, +MADE BY +SIEUR DE CHAMPLAIN, +CAPTAIN IN ORDINARY TO THE KING IN THE MARINE, +FROM THE YEAR 1608 TO THAT OF 1612. + + + +CHAPTER I. + +DETERMINATION OF SIEUR DE MONTS TO MAKE EXPLORATIONS IN THE INTERIOR; HIS +COMMISSION, AND ITS INFRINGEMENT BY THE BASQUES, WHO DISARMED THE VESSEL OF +PONT GRAVÉ; AND THE AGREEMENT BETWEEN THEM WHICH THEY SUBSEQUENTLY MADE. + + +Having returned to France after a stay of three years in New France, [283] +I proceeded to Sieur de Monts, and related to him the principal events of +which I had been a witness since his departure, and gave him the map and +plan of the most remarkable coasts and harbors there. + +Some time afterward, Sieur de Monts determined to continue his undertaking, +and complete the exploration of the interior along the great river +St. Lawrence, where I had been by order of the late King Henry the Great +[284] in the year 1603, for a distance of some hundred and eighty leagues, +commencing in latitude 48° 40', that is, at Gaspé, at the entrance of the +river, as far as the great fall, which is in latitude 45° and some minutes, +where our exploration ended, and where boats could not pass as we then +thought, since we had not made a careful examination of it as we have since +done. [285] + +Now after Sieur de Monts had conferred with me several times in regard to +his purposes concerning the exploration, he resolved to continue so noble +and meritorious an undertaking, notwithstanding the hardships and labors of +the past. He honored me with his lieutenancy for the voyage; and, in order +to carry out his purpose, he had two vessels equipped, one commanded by +Pont Gravé, who was commissioned to trade with the savages of the country +and bring back the vessels, while I was to winter in the country. + +Sieur de Monts, for the purpose of defraying the expenses of the +expedition, obtained letters from his Majesty for one year, by which all +persons were forbidden to traffic in peltry with the savages, on penalties +stated in the following commission:-- + + +HENRY BY THE GRACE OF GOD KING OF FRANCE AND NAVARRE, to our beloved and +faithful Councillors, the officers of our Admiralty in Normandy, Brittany, +and Guienne, bailiffs, marshals, prevosts, judges, or their lieutenants, +and to each one of them, according to his authority, throughout the extent +of their powers, jurisdictions, and precincts, greeting: + +Acting upon the information which has been given us by those who have +returned from New France, respecting the good quality and fertility of the +lands of that country, and the disposition of the people to accept the +knowledge of God, We have resolved to continue the settlement previously +undertaken there, in order that our subjects may go there to trade without +hinderance. And in view of the proposition to us of Sieur de Monts, +Gentleman in Ordinary of our chamber, and our Lieutenant-General in that +country, to make a settlement, on condition of our giving him means and +supplies for sustaining the expense of it, [286] it has pleased us to +promise and assure him that none of our subjects but himself shall be +permitted to trade in peltry and other merchandise, for the period of one +year only, in the lands, regions, harbors, rivers, and highways throughout +the extent of his jurisdiction: this We desire to have fulfilled. For these +causes and other considerations impelling us thereto, We command and decree +that each one of you, throughout the extent of your powers, jurisdictions, +and precincts, shall act in our stead and carry out our will in distinctly +prohibiting and forbidding all merchants, masters, and captains of vessels, +also sailors and others of our subjects, of whatever rank and profession, +to fit out any vessels, in which to go themselves or send others in order +to engage in trade or barter in peltry and other things with the savages of +New France, to visit, trade, or communicate with them during the space of +one year, within the jurisdiction of Sieur de Monts, on penalty of +disobedience, and the entire confiscation of their vessels, supplies, arms, +and merchandise for the benefit of Sieur de Monts; and, in order that the +punishment of their disobedience may be assured, you will allow, as We have +and do allow, the aforesaid Sieur de Monts or his lieutenants to seize, +apprehend, and arrest all violators of our present prohibition and order, +also their vessels, merchandise, arms, supplies, and victuals, in order to +take and deliver them up to the hands of justice, so that action may be +taken not only against the persons, but also the property of the offenders, +as the case shall require. This is our will, and We bid you to have it at +once read and published in all localities and public places within your +authority and jurisdiction, as you may deem necessary, by the first one of +our officers or sergeants in accordance with this requisition, by virtue of +these presents, or a copy of the same, properly attested once only by one +of our well-beloved and faithful councillors, notaries, and secretaries, to +which it is Our will that credence should be given as to the present +original, in order that none of our subjects may claim ground for +ignorance, but that all may obey and act in accordance with Our will in +this matter. We order, moreover, all captains of vessels, mates, and second +mates, and sailors of the same, and others on board of vessels or ships in +the ports and harbors of the aforesaid country, to permit, as We have done, +Sieur de Monts, and others possessing power and authority from him, to +search the aforesaid vessels which shall have engaged in the fur-trade +after the present prohibition shall have been made known to them. It is Our +will that, upon the requisition, of the aforesaid Sieur de Monts, his +lieutenants, and others having authority, you should proceed against the +disobedient and offenders, as the case may require: to this end. We give +you power, authority, commission, and special mandate, notwithstanding the +act of our Council of the 17th day of July last, [287] any hue and cry, +Norman charter, accusation, objection, or appeals of whatsoever kind; on +account of which, and for fear of disregarding which, it is Our will that +there should be no delay, and, if any of these occur, We have withheld and +reserved cognizance of the same to Ourselves and our Council, apart from +all other judges, and have forbidden and prohibited the same to all our +courts and judges: for this is Our pleasure. + +Given at Paris the seventh day of January, in the year of grace, sixteen +hundred and eight, and the nineteenth of Our reign. Signed, HENRY. + + +And lower down, By the King, Delomenie. And sealed with the single label of +the great seal of yellow wax. + +Collated with the original by me, Councillor, Notary, and secretary of the +King. + +I proceeded to Honfleur for embarkation, where I found the vessel of Pont +Gravé in readiness. He left port on the 5th of April. I did so on the 13th, +arriving at the Grand Bank on the 15th of May, in latitude 45° 15'. On the +26th, we sighted Cape St. Mary,[288] in latitude 46° 45', on the Island of +Newfoundland. On the 27th of the month, we sighted Cape St. Lawrence, on +Cape Breton, and also the Island of St. Paul, distant eighty-three leagues +from Cape St. Mary.[289] On the 30th, we sighted Isle Percée and +Gaspé,[290] in latitude 48° 40', distant from Cape St. Lawrence from +seventy to seventy-five leagues. + +On the 3d of June, we arrived before Tadoussac, distant from Gaspé from +eighty to ninety leagues; and we anchored in the roadstead of +Tadoussac,[291] a league distant from the harbor, which latter is a kind of +cove at the mouth of the river Saguenay, where the tide is very remarkable +on account of its rapidity, and where there are sometimes violent winds, +bringing severe cold. It is maintained that from the harbor of Tadoussac it +is some forty-five or fifty leagues to the first fall on this river, which +comes from the north-north-west. The harbor is small, and can accommodate +only about twenty vessels. It has water enough, and is under shelter of the +river Saguenay and a little rocky island; which is almost cut by the river; +elsewhere there are very high mountains with little soil and only rocks and +sand, thickly covered with such wood as fir and birch. There is a small +pond near the harbor, shut in by mountains covered with wood. There are two +points at the mouth: one on the south-west side, extending out nearly a +league into the sea, called Point St. Matthew, or otherwise Point aux +Allouettes; and another on the north-west side, extending out one-eighth of +a league, and called Point of all Devils.[292] from the dangerous nature of +the place. The winds from the south-south-east strike the harbor, which are +not to be feared; but those, however, from the Saguenay are. The two points +above mentioned are dry at low tide: our vessel was unable to enter the +harbor, as the wind and tide were unfavorable. I at once had the boat +lowered, in order to go to the port and ascertain whether Pont Gravé had +arrived. While on the way, I met a shallop with the pilot of Pont Gravé and +a Basque, who came to inform me of what had happened to them because they +attempted to hinder the Basque vessels from trading, according to the +commission obtained by Sieur de Monts from his Majesty, that no vessels +should trade without permission of Sieur de Monts, as was expressed in it; +and that, notwithstanding the notifications which Pont Gravé made in behalf +of his Majesty, they did not desist from forcibly carrying on their +traffic; and that they had used their arms and maintained themselves so +well in their vessel that, discharging all their cannon upon that of Pont +Gravé, and letting off many musket-shots, he was severely wounded, together +with three of his men, one of whom died, Pont Gravé meanwhile making no +resistance; for at the first shower of musketry he was struck down. The +Basques came on board of the vessel and took away all the cannon and arms, +declaring that they would trade, notwithstanding the prohibition of the +King, and that when they were ready to set out for France they would +restore to him his cannon and ammunition, and that they were keeping them +in order to be in a state of security. Upon hearing all these particulars, +I was greatly annoyed at such a beginning, which we might have easily +avoided. + +Now, after hearing from the pilot all these things, I asked him why the +Basque had come on board of our vessel. He told me that he came in behalf +of their master, named Darache, and his companions, to obtain assurance +from me that I would do them no harm, when our vessel entered the harbor. + +I replied that I could not give any until I had seen Pont Gravé. The Basque +said that, if I had need of any thing in their power, they would assist me +accordingly. What led them to use this language was simply their +recognition of having done wrong, as they confessed, and the fear that they +would not be permitted to engage in the whale-fishery. After talking at +length, I went ashore to see Pont Gravé, in order to deliberate as to what +was to be done. I found him very ill. He related to me in detail all that +had happened. We concluded that we could only enter the harbor by force, +and that the settlement must not be given up for this year, so that we +considered it best, in order not to make a bad cause out of a just one, and +thus work our ruin, to give them assurances on my part so long as I should +remain there, and that Pont Gravé should undertake nothing against them, +but that justice should be done in France, and their differences should be +settled there. + +Darache, master of the vessel, begged me to go on board, where he gave me a +cordial reception. After a long conference, I secured an agreement between +Pont Gravé and him, and required him to promise that he would undertake +nothing against Pont Gravé, or what would be prejudicial to the King and +Sieur de Monts; that, if he did the contrary, I should regard my promise as +null and void. This was agreed to, and signed by each. + +In this place were a number of savages who had come for traffic in furs, +several of whom came to our vessel with their canoes, which are from eight +to nine paces long, and about a pace or pace and a half broad in the +middle, growing narrower towards the two ends. They are very apt to turn +over, in case one does not understand managing them, and are made of birch +bark, strengthened on the inside by little ribs of white cedar, very neatly +arranged; they are so light that a man can easily carry one. Each can carry +a weight equal to that of a pipe. When they want to go overland to a river +where they have business, they carry them with them. From Choüacoet along +the coast as far as the harbor of Tadoussac, they are all alike. + + +ENDNOTES: + +283. Champlain arrived on the shores of America on the 8th of May, 1604, + and left on the 3rd of September, 1607. He had consequently been on + our coast three years, three months, and twenty-five days. + +284. _The late King Henry the Great_. Henry IV. died in 1610, and this + introductory passage was obviously written after that event, probably + near the time of the publication of his voyages in 1613. + +285. In the preliminary voyage of 1603, Champlain ascended the St. Lawrence + as far as the falls of St. Louis, above Montreal. + +286. The contribution by Henry IV. did not probably extend beyond the + monopoly of the fur-trade granted by him in this commission. + +287. This, we presume, was the act abrogating the charter of De Monts + granted in 1603. + +288. This cape still retains its ancient name, and is situated between + St. Mary's Bay and Placentia Bay. + +289. Cape St. Lawrence is the northernmost extremity of the Island of Cape + Breton, and the Island of St. Paul is twenty miles north-east of it. + +290. The Isle Percée, or pierced island, is a short distance north of the + Island of Bonaventure, at the entrance of Mal Bay, near the village of + Percée, where there is a government light. Gaspé Bay is some miles + farther north. "Below the bay," says Charlevoix, "we perceive a kind + of island, which is only a steep rock about thirty fathoms long, ten + high, and four in breadth: it looks like part of an old wall, and they + say it joined formerly to _Mount Ioli_, which is over against it on + the continent. This rock has in the midst of it an opening like an + arch, under which a boat of Biscay may pass with its sail up, and this + has given it the name of the _pierced island_."--_Letters to the + Duchess of Lesdiguières_, by Francis Xavier de Charlevoix, London, + 1763, p. 12. + +291. The position in the roadstead was south-east of the harbor, so that + the harbor was seen on the north-west. Charlevoix calls it Moulin + Baude. The reader will find the position indicated by the letter M on + Champlain's map of the Port of Tadoussac. Baude Moulin (Baude Mill), + directly north of it, was probably a mill _privilege_. Charlevoix, in + 1720, anchored there, and asked them to show him the mill; and they + showed him some rocks, from which issued a stream of clear water. He + adds, they might build a water-mill here, but probably it will never + be done. + +292. _Pointe de tous les Diables_. Now known as Pointe aux Vaches, _cows_. + The point on the other side of the river is still called Pointe aux + Alouettes, or Lark Point. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +OF THE RIVER SAGUENAY, AND THE SAVAGES WHO VISITED US THERE.--OF THE ISLAND +OF ORLEANS, AND ALL THAT WE OBSERVED THERE WORTHY OF NOTE. + +After this agreement, I had some carpenters set to work to fit up a little +barque of twelve or fourteen tons, for carrying all that was needed for our +settlement, which, however, could not be got ready before the last of June. + +Meanwhile, I managed to visit some parts of the river Saguenay, a fine +river, which has the incredible depth of some one hundred and fifty to two +hundred fathoms. [293] About fifty leagues from the mouth of the harbor, +there is, as is said, a great waterfall, descending from a very high +elevation with great impetuosity. There are some islands in this river, +very barren, being only rocks covered with small firs and heathers. It is +half a league broad in places, and a quarter of a league at its mouth, +where the current is so strong that at three-quarters flood-tide in the +river it is still running out. All the land that I have seen consists only +of mountains and rocky promontories, for the most part covered with fir and +birch, a very unattractive country on both sides of the river. In a word, +it is mere wastes, uninhabited by either animals or birds; for, going out +hunting in places which seemed to me the most pleasant, I found only some +very small birds, such as swallows and river birds, which go there in +summer. At other times, there are none whatever, in consequence of the +excessive cold. This river flows from the north-west. + +The savages told me that, after passing the first fall, they meet with +eight others, when they go a day's journey without finding any. Then they +pass ten others, and enter a lake, [294] which they are three days in +crossing, and they are easily able to make ten leagues a day up stream. At +the end of the lake there dwells a migratory people. Of the three rivers +which flow into this lake, one comes from the north, very near the sea, +where they consider it much colder than in their own country; and the other +two from other directions in the interior, [295] where are migratory +savages, living only from hunting, and where our savages carry the +merchandise we give them for their furs, such as beaver, marten, lynx, and +otter, which are found there in large numbers, and which they then carry to +our vessels. These people of the north report to our savages that they see +the salt sea; and, if that is true, as I think it certainly is, it can be +nothing but a gulf entering the interior on the north. [296] The savages +say that the distance from the north sea to the port of Tadoussac is +perhaps forty-five or fifty days' journey, in consequence of the +difficulties presented by the roads, rivers, and country, which is very +mountainous, and where there is snow for the most part of the year. This is +what I have definitely ascertained in regard to this river. I have often +wished to explore it, but could not do so without the savages, who were +unwilling that I or any of our party should accompany them. Nevertheless, +they have promised that I shall do so. This exploration would be desirable, +in order to remove the doubts of many persons in regard to the existence of +this sea on the north, where it is maintained that the English have gone in +these latter years to find a way to China. [297] + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +PORT DE TADOUCAC. + +_The figures indicate the fathoms of water_. + +_A_. A round mountain on the bank of the river Saguenay. +_B_. The harbor of Tadoussac. +_C_. A small fresh-water brook. +_D_. The encampment of the savages when they come to traffic. +_E_. A peninsula partly enclosing the port of the river Saguenay. +_F_. Point of All Devils. +_G_. The river Saguenay. +_H_. Point aux Alouettes. +_I_. Very rough mountains covered with firs and beeches. +_L_. The mill Bode. +_M_. The roadstead where vessels anchor while waiting for wind and tide. +_N_. A little pond near the harbor. +_O_. A small brook coming from the pond and flowing into the Saguenay. +_P_. Place without trees near the point where there is a quantity of grass. + + * * * * * + +I set out from Tadoussac the last day of the month to go to Quebec. [298] +We passed near an island called Hare Island, [299] distant six leagues from +the above-named port: it is two leagues from the northern, and nearly four +leagues from the southern shore. From Hare Island we proceeded to a little +river, dry at low tide, up which some seven hundred or eight hundred paces +there are two falls. We named it Salmon River, [300] since we caught some +of these fish in it. Coasting along the north shore, we came to a point +extending into the river, which we called Cap Dauphin, [301] distant three +leagues from Salmon River. Thence we proceeded to another, which we named +Eagle Cape, [302] distant eight leagues from Cap Dauphin. Between the two +there is a large bay, [303] at the extremity of which is a little river dry +at low tide. From Eagle Cape, we proceeded to Isle aux Coudres, [304] a +good league distant, which is about a league and a half long. It is nearly +level, and grows narrower towards the two ends. On the western end there +are meadows, and rocky points extending some distance out into the river. +On the south-west side it is very reefy, yet very pleasant in consequence +of the woods surrounding it. It is distant about half a league from the +northern shore, where is a little river extending some distance into the +interior. We named it Rivière du Gouffre, [305] since abreast of it the +tide runs with extraordinary rapidity; and, although it has a calm +appearance, it is always much agitated, the depth there being great: but +the river itself is shallow, and there are many rocks at and about its +mouth. Coasting along from Isle aux Coudres, we reached a cape which we +named Cap de Tourmente, [306] five leagues distant; and we gave it this +name because, however little wind there may be, the water rises there as if +it were full tide. At this point, the water begins to be fresh. Thence we +proceeded to the Island of Orleans, [307] a distance of two leagues, on the +south side of which are numerous islands, low, covered with trees and very +pleasant, with large meadows, having plenty of game, some being, so far as +I could judge, two leagues in length, others a trifle more or less. About +these islands are many rocks, also very dangerous shallows, some two +leagues distant from the main land on the South. All this shore, both north +and South, from Tadoussac to the Island of Orleans, is mountainous, and the +soil very poor. The wood is pine, fir, and birch only, with very ugly +rocks, so that in most places one could not make his way. + +Now we passed along south of the Island of Orleans, which is a league and a +half distant from the main land and half a league on the north side, being +six leagues in length, and one in breadth, or in some places a league and a +half. On the north side, it is very pleasant, on account of the great +extent of woods and meadows there; but it is very dangerous sailing, in +consequence of the numerous points and rocks between the main land and +island, on which are numerous fine oaks and in some places nut-trees, and +on the borders of the woods vines and other trees such as we have in +France. This place is the commencement of the fine and fertile country of +the great river, and is distant one hundred and twenty leagues from its +mouth. Off the end of the island is a torrent of water on the north shore, +proceeding from a lake ten leagues in the interior: [308] it comes down +from a height of nearly twenty-five fathoms, above which the land is level +and pleasant, although farther inland are seen high mountains appearing to +be from fifteen to twenty leagues distant. + + +ENDNOTES: + +293. The deepest sounding as laid down on Laurie's Chart is one hundred and + forty-six fathoms. The same authority says the banks of the river + throughout its course are very rocky, and vary in height from one + hundred and seventy to three hundred and forty yards above the stream. + Its current is broad, deep, and uncommonly vehement: in some places, + where precipices intervene, are falls from fifty to sixty feet in + height, down which the whole volume of water rushes with tremendous + fury and noise. The general breadth of the river is about two and a + half miles, but at its mouth its width is contracted to three-quarters + of a mile. The tide runs upward about sixty-five miles from its mouth. + +294. If the Indians were three days in crossing Lake St. John here referred + to, whose length is variously stated to be from twenty-five to forty + miles, it could hardly have been the shortest time in which it were + possible to pass it. It may have been the usual time, some of which + they gave to fishing or hunting. "In 1647, Father Jean Duquen, + missionary at Tadoussac, ascending the Saguenay, discovered the Lake + St. John, and noted its Indian name, Picouagami, or Flat Lake. He was + the first European who beheld that magnificent expanse of inland + water."--_Vide Transactions, Lit. and His. Soc. of Quebec_, 1867-68, + p. 5. + +295. The first of these three rivers, which the traveller will meet as he + passes up the northern shore of the lake, is the Peribonca flowing + from the north-east. The second is the Mistassina, represented by the + Indians as coming from the salt sea. The third is the Chomouchonan, + flowing from the north-west. + +296. There was doubtless an Indian trail from the head-waters of the + Mistassina to Mistassin Lake, and from thence to Rupert River, which + flows into the lower part of Hudson's Bay. + +297. The salt sea referred to by the Indians was undoubtedly Hudson's Bay. + The discoverer of this bay, Henry Hudson, in the years 1607, 1608, and + 1609, was in the northern ocean searching for a passage to Cathay. In + 1610, he discovered the strait and bay which now bear his name. He + passed the winter in the southern part of the bay; and the next year, + 1611, his sailors in a mutiny forced him and his officers into a + shallop and abandoned them to perish. Nothing was heard of them + afterward. The fame of Hudson's discovery had reached Champlain + before the publication of this volume in 1613. This will be apparent + by comparing Champlain's small map with the TABULA NAUTICA of Hudson, + published in 1612. It will be seen that the whole of the Carte + Géographique de la Nouvelle France of Champlain, on the west of + Lumley's Inlet, including Hudson's Strait and Bay, is a copy from the + Tabula Nautica. Even the names are in English, a few characteristic + ones being omitted, such as Prince Henry, the King's Forlant, and Cape + Charles.--_Vide Henry Hudson the Navigator_, by G. M. Asher, LL.D., + Hakluyt Society, 1860, p. xliv. + +298. This was June 30, 1608. + +299. _Isle aux Lièvres_, or hares. This name was given by Jacques Cartier, + and it is still called Hare Island. It is about ten geographical miles + long, and generally about half or three-quarters of a mile wide. + +300. _Rivière aux Saulmons_. "From all appearances," says Laverdière, "this + Salmon River is that which empties into the 'Port à l'Équilles,' eel + harbor, also called 'Port aux Quilles,' Skittles Port. Its mouth is + two leagues from Cape Salmon, with which it must not be confounded." + It is now known as Black River. + +301. _Cap Dauphin_, now called Cape Salmon, which is about three leagues + from Black River. + +302. _Cap à l'Aigle_, now known as Cap aux Oies, or Goose Cape. The Eagle + Cape of to-day is little more than two leagues from Cape Salmon, while + Goose Cape is about eight leagues, as stated in the text. + +303. The bay stretching between Cape Salmon and Goose Cape is called Mal + Bay, within which are Cape Eagle, Murray Bay, Point au Ries, White + Cape, Red Cape, Black Cape, Point Père, Point Corneille, and Little + Mal Bay. In the rear of Goose Cape are Les Éboulemens Mountains, 2,547 + feet in height. On the opposite side of the river is Point Ouelle, and + the river of the same name. + +304. _Isle aux Coudres_, Hazel Island, so named by Jacques Cartier, still + retains its ancient appellation. Its distance from Goose Cape is about + two leagues. The description of it in the text is very accurate. + +305. _Rivière du Gouffre_. This river still retains this name, signifying + whirlpool, and is the same that empties into St. Paul's Bay, opposite + Isle-aux Coudres. + +306. _Cap de Tourmente_, cape of the tempest, is eight leagues from Isle + aux Coudres, but about two from the Isle of Orleans, as stated in the + text, which sufficiently identifies it. + +307. _Isle d'Orléans_. Cartier discovered this island in 1635, and named it + the Island of Bacchus, because he saw vines growing there, which he + had not before seen in that region. He says, "Et pareillement y + trouuasmes force vignes, ce que n'auyons veu par cy deuant à toute la + terre, & par ce la nommasmes l'ysle de Bacchus."--_Brief Récit de la + Navigation Faite en MDXXXV._, par Jacques Cartier, D'Avezac ed., + Paris, 1863, pp. 14, 15. The grape found here was probably the Frost + Grape, _Vitis cordifolia_. The "Island of Orleans" soon became the + fixed name of this island, which it still retains. Its Indian name is + said to have been _Minigo_.--_Vide_ Laverdière's interesting note, + _Oeuvres de Champlain_, Tome II, p. 24. Champlain's estimate of the + size of the island is nearly accurate. It is, according to the + Admiralty charts, seventeen marine miles in length, and four in its + greatest width. + +308. This was the river Montmorency, which rises in Snow Lake, some fifty + miles in the interior.--_Vide_ Champlain's reference on his map of + Quebec and its environs. He gave this name to the river, which it + still retains, in honor of the Admiral Montmorency, to whom he + dedicated his notes on the voyage of 1603.--_Vide Laverdière_, in + loco; also _Champlain_, ed. 1632; _Chiarlevoix's Letters_, London, + 1763, p. 19. The following is Jean Alfonse's description of the fall + of Montmorency: "When thou art come to the end of the Isle, thou shall + see a great River, which falleth fifteene or twenty fathoms downe from + a rocke, and maketh a terrible noyse."--_Hakluyt, Vol. III. p. 293. + The perpendicular descent of the Montmorency at the falls is 240 feet. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +ARRIVAL AT QUEBEC, WHERE WE CONSTRUCTED OUR PLACE OF ABODE; ITS SITUATION. +--CONSPIRACY AGAINST THE SERVICE OF THE KING AND MY LIFE. BY SOME OF OUR +MEN--PUNISHMENT OF THEM, AND ALL THAT TRANSPIRED OF THE AFFAIR. + + +From the Island of Orleans to Quebec the distance is a league. I arrived +there on the 3d of July, when I searched for a place suitable for our +settlement, but I could find none more convenient or better situated than +the point of Quebec, so called by the savages, [309] which was covered with +nut-trees. I at once employed a portion of our workmen in cutting them +down, that we might construct our habitation there: one I set to sawing +boards, another to making a cellar and digging ditches, another I sent to +Tadoussac with the barque to get supplies. The first thing we made was the +storehouse for keeping under cover our supplies, which was promptly +accomplished through the zeal of all, and my attention to the work. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +QUEBEC. + +_The figures indicate the fathoms of water_. + +_A_. The site where our habitation is built. [Note 1] +_B_. Cleared land where we sow wheat and other grain. [Note 2] +_C_. The gardens.[Note 3] +_D_. Small brook coming from marshes. [Note 4] +_E_. River where Jacques Cartier passed the winter, which in his time he + called St. Croix, and which name has been transferred to a place + fifteen leagues above Quebec. [Note 5] +_F_. River of the marshes. [Note 6] +_G_. Place where was collected the grass for the animals brought here. + [Note 7] +_H_. The grand fall of Montmorency, which descends from a height of more + than twenty-five fathoms into the river. [Note 8] +_I_. The end of the Island of Orleans. +_L_. A very narrow point on the shore east of Quebec. [Note 9] +_M_. Roaring river which extends to the Etechemins. +_N_. The great river of St. Lawrence. +_O_. Lake in the roaring river. +_P_. Mountains in the interior; bay which I named New Biscay, +_q_. Lake of the great fall of Montmorency. [Note 10] +_R_. Bear Brook. [Note 11] +_S_. Brook du Gendre. [Note 12] +_T_. Meadows overflowed at every tide. +_V_. Mont du Gas, very high, situated on the bank of the river. [Note 13] +_X_. Swift brook, adapted to all kinds of mills. +_Y_. Gravelly shore where a quantity of diamonds are found somewhat better + than those of Alanson. +_Z_. The Point of Diamonds. +_9_. Places where the savages often build their cabins. [Note 14] + +NOTES. The following notes on Champlain's explanation of his map of Quebec +are by the Abbé Laverdière, whose accurate knowledge of that city and its +environs renders them especially valuable. They are given entire, with only +slight modifications. + +1. That is properly the point of Quebec, including what is at present + enclosed by La Place, the street Notre Dame, and the river. + +2. This first clearing must have been what was called later the Esplanade + du Fort, or Grande Place, or perhaps both. The Grande Place became, in + 1658, the fort of the Hurons: it was the space included between the Côte + of the lower town and the Rue du Fort. + +3. A little above the gardens, on the slope of the Côte du Saut au Matelot, + a cross is seen, which seems to indicate that at that time the cemetery + was where it is said to be when it is mentioned some years later for the + first time. + +4. According to the old plans of Quebec, these marshes were represented to + be west of Mont Carmel, and at the foot of the glacis of the Citadel. + The brook pulled eastward of the grounds of the Ursulines and Jésuites, + followed for some distance the Rue de la Fabrique as far as the + enclosure of the Hôtel Dieu, to the east of which it ran down the hill + towards the foot of the Côte de la Canoterie. + +5. The river St. Charles. The letter E does not indicate precisely the + place where Jacques Cartier wintered, but only the mouth of the river. + +6. Judging from the outlines of the shore, this brook, which came from the + south-west, flowed into the harbor of the Palais, towards the western + extremity of the Parc. + +7. This is probably what was called later the barn of the Messieurs de la + Compagnie, or simply La Grange, and appears to have been somewhere on + the avenue of Mont Carmel. + +8. The fall of Montmorency is forty fathoms or two hundred and forty French + feet, or even more. + +9. Hence it is seen that in 1613 this point had as yet no name. In 1629, + Champlain calls it Cap de Lévis: it can accordingly be concluded that + this point derives its name from that of the Duc de Ventadour, Henri de + Lévis, and that it must have been so named between the years 1625 and + 1627, the time when he was regent. + +10. The Lake of the Snows is the source of the western branch of the + Rivière du Saut. + +11. La Rivière de Beauport, which is called likewise La Distillerie. + +12. Called later Ruisseau de la Cabaneaux Taupiers. Rivière Chalisour, and + finally Rivière des Fous, from the new insane asylum, by the site of + which it now passes. + +13. Height where is now situated the bastion of the Roi à la Citadelle. + This name was given it, doubtless, in memory of M. de Monts, Pierre du + Guast. + +14. This figure appears not only at the Point du Cap Diamant, but also + along the shore of Beauport, and at the end of the Island of Orleans. + + * * * * * + +Some days after my arrival at Quebec, a locksmith conspired against the +service of the king. His plan was to put me to death, and, getting +possession of our fort, to put it into the hands of the Basques or +Spaniards, then at Tadoussac, beyond which vessels cannot go, from not +having a knowledge of the route, nor of the banks and rocks on the way. + +In order to execute his wretched plan, by which he hoped to make his +fortune, he suborned four of the worst characters, as he supposed, telling +them a thousand falsehoods, and presenting to them prospects of acquiring +riches. + +These four men, having been won over, all promised to act in such a manner +as to gain the rest over to their side; so that, for the time being, I had +no one with me in whom I could put confidence, which gave them still more +hope of making their plan succeed: for four or five of my companions, in +whom they knew that I put confidence, were on board of the barques, for the +purpose of protecting the provisions and supplies necessary for our +settlement. + +In a word, they were so skilful in carrying out their intrigues with those +who remained, that they were on the point of gaining all over to their +cause, even my lackey, promising them many things which they could not have +fulfilled. + +Being now all agreed, they made daily different plans as to how they should +put me to death, so as not to be accused of it, which they found to be a +difficult thing. But the devil, blindfolding them all and taking away their +reason and every possible difficulty, they determined to take me while +unarmed, and strangle me; or to give a false alarm at night, and shoot me +as I went out, in which manner they judged that they would accomplish their +work sooner than otherwise. They made a mutual promise not to betray each +other, on penalty that the first one who opened his mouth should be +poniarded. They were to execute their plan in four days, before the +arrival of our barques, otherwise they would have been unable to carry out +their scheme. + +On this very day, one of our barques arrived, with our pilot, Captain +Testu, a very discreet man. After the barque was unloaded, and ready to +return to Tadoussac, there came to him a locksmith, named Natel, an +associate of Jean du Val, the head of the conspiracy, who told him that he +had promised the rest to do just as they did; but that he did not in fact +desire the execution of the plot, yet did not dare to make a disclosure in +regard to it, from fear of being poniarded. + +Antoine Natel made the pilot promise that he would make no disclosure in +regard to what he should say, since, if his companions should discover it, +they would put him to death. The pilot gave him his assurance in all +particulars, and asked him to state the character of the plot which they +wished to carry out. This Natel did at length, when the pilot said to him: +"My friend, you have done well to disclose such a malicious design, and you +show that you are an upright man, and under the guidance of the Holy +Spirit. But these things cannot be passed by without bringing them to the +knowledge of Sieur de Champlain, that he may make provision against them; +and I promise you that I will prevail upon him to pardon you and the rest. +And I will at once," said the pilot, "go to him without exciting any +suspicion; and do you go about your business, listening to all they may +say, and not troubling yourself about the rest." + +The pilot came at once to me, in a garden which I was having prepared, and +said that he wished to speak to me in a private place, where we could be +alone. I readily assented, and we went into the wood, where he related to +me the whole affair. I asked who had told it to him. He begged me to pardon +him who had made the disclosure, which I consented to do, although he ought +to have addressed himself to me. He was afraid, he replied, that you would +become angry, and harm him. I told him that I was able to govern myself +better than that, in such a matter; and desired him to have the man come to +me, that I might hear his statement. He went, and brought him all trembling +with fear lest I should do him some harm. I reassured him, telling him not +to be afraid; that he was in a place of safety, and that I should pardon +him for all that he had done, together with the others, provided he would +tell me in full the truth in regard to the whole matter, and the motive +which had impelled them to it. "Nothing," he said, "had impelled them, +except that they had imagined that, by giving up the place into the hands +of the Basques or Spaniards, they might all become rich, and that they did +not want to go back to France." He also related to me the remaining +particulars in regard to their conspiracy. + +After having heard and questioned him, I directed him to go about his +work. Meanwhile, I ordered the pilot to bring up his shallop, which he +did. Then I gave two bottles of wine to a young man, directing him to say +to these four worthies, the leaders of the conspiracy, that it was a +present of wine, which his friends at Tadoussac had given him, and that he +wished to share it with them. This they did not decline, and at evening +were on board the barque where he was to give them the entertainment. I +lost no time in going there shortly after; and caused them to be seized, +and held until the next day. + +Then were my worthies astonished indeed. I at once had all get up, for it +was about ten o'clock in the evening, and pardoned them all, on condition +that they would disclose to me the truth in regard to all that had +occurred; which they did, when I had them retire. + +The next day I took the depositions of all, one after the other, in the +presence of the pilot and sailors of the vessel, which I had put down in +writing; and they were well pleased, as they said, since they had lived +only in fear of each other, especially of the four knaves who had ensnared +them. But now they lived in peace, satisfied, as they declared, with the +treatment which they had received. + +The same day I had six pairs of handcuffs made for the authors of the +conspiracy: one for our surgeon, named Bonnerme, one for another, named La +Taille, whom the four conspirators had accused, which, however, proved +false, and consequently they were given their liberty. + +This being done, I took my worthies to Tadoussac, begging Pont Gravé to do +me the favor of guarding them, since I had as yet no secure place for +keeping them, and as we were occupied in constructing our places of abode. +Another object was to consult with him, and others on the ship, as to what +should be done in the premises. We suggested that, after he had finished +his work at Tadoussac, he should come to Quebec with the prisoners, where +we should have them confronted with their witnesses, and, after giving them +a hearing, order justice to be done according to the offence which they had +committed. + +I went back the next day to Quebec, to hasten the completion of our +storehouse, so as to secure our provisions, which had been misused by all +those scoundrels, who spared nothing, without reflecting how they could +find more when these failed; for I could not obviate the difficulty until +the storehouse should be completed and shut up. + +Pont Gravé arrived some time after me, with the prisoners, which caused +uneasiness to the workmen who remained, since they feared that I should +pardon them, and that they would avenge themselves upon them for revealing +their wicked design. + +We had them brought face to face, and they affirmed before them all which +they had stated in their depositions, the prisoners not denying it, but +admitting that they had acted in a wicked manner, and should be punished, +unless mercy might be exercised towards them; accursing, above all, Jean du +Val, who had been trying to lead them into such a conspiracy from the time +of their departure from France. Du Val knew not what to say, except that he +deserved death, that all stated in the depositions was true, and that he +begged for mercy upon himself and the others, who had given in their +adherence to his pernicious purposes. + +After Pont Gravé and I, the captain of the vessel, surgeon, mate, second +mate, and other sailors, had heard their depositions and face to face +statements, we adjudged that it would be enough to put to death Du Val, as +the instigator of the conspiracy; and that he might serve as an example to +those who remained, leading them to deport themselves correctly in future, +in the discharge of their duty; and that the Spaniards and Basques, of whom +there were large numbers in the country, might not glory in the event. We +adjudged that the three others be condemned to be hung, but that they +should be taken to France and put into the hands of Sieur de Monts, that +such ample justice might be done them as he should recommend; that they +should be sent with all the evidence and their sentence, as well as that of +Jean du Val, who was strangled and hung at Quebec, and his head was put on +the end of a pike, to be set up in the most conspicuous place on our fort. + + +ENDNOTES: + +309. Champlain here plainly means to say that the Indians call the narrow + place in the river _Quebec_. For this meaning of the word, viz., + narrowing of waters, in the Algonquin language, the authority is + abundant. Laverdière quotes, as agreeing with him in this view, + Bellenger, Ferland, and Lescarbot. "The narrowing of the river," says + Charlevoix, "gave it the name of _Quebeio_ or _Quebec_, which in the + _Algonquin_ language signifies _contraction_. The Abenaquis, whose + language is a dialect of the Algonquin, call it Quelibec, which + signifies something shut up."--_Charlevoix's Letters_, pp. 18, 19. + Alfred Hawkins, in his "Historical Recollections of Quebec," regards + the word of Norman origin, which he finds on a seal of the Duke of + Suffolk, as early as 1420. The theory is ingenious: but it requires + some other characteristic historical facts to challenge our belief. + When Cartier visited Quebec, it was called by the natives Stadacone. + --_Vide Cartier's Brief Récit_, 1545, D'Avezac ed., Paris, 1863, + p. 14. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +RETURN OF PONT GRAVÉ TO FRANCE.--DESCRIPTION OF OUR QUARTERS AND THE PLACE +WHERE JACQUES CARTIER STAYED IN 1535. + + +After all these occurrences, Pont Gravé set out from Quebec, on the 18th of +September, to return to France with the three prisoners. After he had gone, +all who remained conducted themselves correctly in the discharge of their +duty. + +I had the work on our quarters continued, which was composed of three +buildings of two stories. Each one was three fathoms long, and two and a +half wide. The storehouse was six fathoms long and three wide, with a fine +cellar six feet deep. I had a gallery made all around our buildings, on the +outside, at the second story, which proved very convenient. There were +also ditches, fifteen feet wide and six deep. On the outer side of the +ditches, I constructed several spurs, which enclosed a part of the +dwelling, at the points where we placed our cannon. Before the habitation +there is a place four fathoms wide and six or seven long, looking out upon +the river-bank. Surrounding the habitation are very good gardens, and a +place on the north side some hundred or hundred and twenty paces long and +fifty or sixty wide. Moreover, near Quebec, there is a little river, coming +from a lake in the interior, [310] distant six or seven leagues from our +settlement. I am of opinion that this river, which is north a quarter +north-west from our settlement, is the place where Jacques Cartier +wintered, [311] since there are still, a league up the river, remains of +what seems to have been a chimney, the foundation of which has been found, +and indications of there having been ditches surrounding their dwelling, +which was small. We found, also, large pieces of hewn, worm-eaten timber, +and some three or four cannon-balls. All these things show clearly that +there was a settlement there founded by Christians; and what leads me to +say and believe that it was that of Jacques Cartier is the fact that there +is no evidence whatever that any one wintered and built a house in these +places except Jacques Cartier, at the time of his discoveries. This place, +as I think, must have been called St. Croix, as he named it; which name +has since been transferred to another place fifteen leagues west of our +settlement. But there is no evidence of his having wintered in the place +now called St. Croix, nor in any other there, since in this direction there +is no river or other place large enough for vessels except the main river +or that of which I spoke above; here there is half a fathom of water at low +tide, many rocks, and a bank at the mouth; for vessels, if kept in the main +river, where there are strong currents and tides, and ice in the winter, +drifting along, would run the risk of being lost; especially as there is a +sandy point extending out into the river, and filled with rocks, between +which we have found, within the last three years, a passage not before +discovered; but one must go through cautiously, in consequence of the +dangerous points there. This place is exposed to the north-west winds; a +half fathoms. There are no signs of buildings here, nor any indications +that a man of judgment would settle in this place, there being many other +better ones, in case one were obliged to make a permanent stay. I have been +desirous of speaking at length on this point, since many believe that the +abode of Jacques Cartier was here, which I do not believe, for the reasons +here given; for Cartier would have left to posterity a narrative of the +matter, as he did in the case of all he saw and discovered; and I maintain +that my opinion is the true one, as can be shown by the history which he +has left, in writing. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +ABITATION DE QUEBECQ. + +_A_. The storehouse. +_B_. Dove-cote. +_C_. A building where our arms are kept, and for lodging our workmen. +_D_. Another building for our workmen. +_E_. Dial. +_F_. Another building, comprising the blacksmith's shop and the lodgings of + the mechanics. +_G_. Galleries extending entirely round the dwellings. +_H_. The dwelling of Sieur de Champlain. +_I_. Gate to the habitation where there is a drawbridge. +_L_. Promenade about the habitation ten feet wide, extending to the border + of the moat. +_M_. Moat extending all round our habitation. +_N_. Platforms, of a tenaille form, for our cannon. +_O_. Garden of Sieur de Champlain. +_P_. The kitchen. +_Q_. Open space before the habitation on the bank of the river. +_R_. The great river St. Lawrence. + + * * * * * + +As still farther proof that this place now called St. Croix is not the +place where Jacques Cartier wintered, as most persons think, this is what +he says about it in his discoveries, taken from his history; namely, that +he arrived at the Isle aux Coudres on the 5th of December, [312] 1535, +which he called by this name, as hazel-nuts were found there. There is a +strong tidal current in this place; and he says that it is three leagues +long, but it is quite enough to reckon a league and a half. On the 7th of +the month, Notre Dame Day, [313] he set out from this island to go up the +river, in which he saw fourteen islands, distant seven or eight leagues +from Isle aux Coudres on the south. He errs somewhat in this estimation, +for it is not more than three leagues. [314] He also says that the place +where the islands are is the commencement of the land or province of +Canada, and that he reached an island ten leagues long and five wide, where +extensive fisheries are carried on, fish being here, in fact, very +abundant, especially the sturgeon. But its length is not more than six +leagues, and its breadth two; a fact well recognized now. He says also that +he anchored between this island and the main land on the north, the +smallest passage, and a dangerous one, where he landed two savages whom he +had taken to France, and that, after stopping in this place some time with +the people of the country, he sent for his barques and went farther up the +river, with the tide, seeking a harbor and place of security for his ships. +He says, farther, that they went on up the river, coasting along this +island, the length of which he estimates at ten leagues; and after it was +passed they found a very fine and pleasant bay, containing a little river +and bar harbor, which they found very favorable for sheltering their +vessels. This they named St. Croix, since he arrived there on this day; and +at the time of the voyage of Cartier the place was called Stadaca, [315] +but we now call it Quebec. He says, also, that after he had examined this +place he returned to get his vessels for passing the winter there. + +Now we may conclude, accordingly, that the distance is only five leagues +from the Isle aux Coudres to the Isle of Orleans, [316] at the western +extremity of which the river is very broad; and at which bay, as Cartier +calls it, there is no other river than that which he called St. Croix, a +good league distant from the Isle of Orleans, in which, at low tide, there +is only half a fathom of water. It is very dangerous for vessels at its +mouth, there being a large number of spurs; that is, rocks scattered here +and there. It is accordingly necessary to place buoys in order to enter, +there being, as I have stated, three fathoms of water at ordinary tides, +and four fathoms, or four and a half generally, at the great tides at full +flood. It is only fifteen hundred paces from our habitation, which is +higher up the river; and, as I have stated, there is no other river up to +the place now called St. Croix, where vessels can lie, there being only +little brooks. The shores are flat and dangerous, which Cartier does not +mention until the time that he sets out from St. Croix, now called Quebec, +where he left his vessels, and built his place of abode, as is seen from +what follows. + +On the 19th of September, he set out from St. Croix, where his vessels +were, setting sail with the tide up the river, which they found very +pleasant, as well on account of the woods, vines, and dwellings, which were +there in his time, as for other reasons. They cast anchor twenty-five +leagues from the entrance to the land of Canada; [317] that is, at the +western extremity of the Isle of Orleans, so called by Cartier. What is +now called St Croix was then called Achelacy, at a narrow pass where the +river is very swift and dangerous on account of the rocks and other things, +and which can only be passed at flood-tide. Its distance from Quebec and +the river where Cartier wintered is fifteen leagues. + +Now, throughout the entire extent of this river, from Quebec to the great +fall, there are no narrows except at the place now called St. Croix; the +name of which has been transferred from one place to another one, which is +very dangerous, as my description shows. And it is very apparent, from his +narrative, that this was not the site of his habitation, as is claimed; but +that the latter was near Quebec, and that no one had entered into a special +investigation of this matter before my doing so in my voyages. For the +first time I was told that he dwelt in this place, I was greatly +astonished, finding no trace of a river for vessels, as he states there +was. This led me to make a careful examination, in order to remove the +suspicion and doubt of many persons in regard to the matter. [318] + +While the carpenters, sawers of boards, and other workmen, were employed on +our quarters, I set all the others to work clearing up around our place of +abode, in preparation for gardens in which to plant grain and seeds, that +we might see how they would flourish, as the soil seemed to be very good. + +Meanwhile, a large number of savages were encamped in cabins near us, +engaged in fishing for eels, which begin to come about the 15th of +September, and go away on the 15th of October. During this time, all the +savages subsist on this food, and dry enough of it for the winter to last +until the month of February, when there are about two and a half, or at +most three, feet of snow; and, when their eels and other things which they +dry have been prepared, they go to hunt the beaver until the beginning of +January. At their departure for this purpose, they intrusted to us all +their eels and other things, until their return, which was on the 15th of +December. But they did not have great success in the beaver-hunt, as the +amount of water was too great, the rivers having overrun their banks, as +they told us. I returned to them all their supplies, which lasted them only +until the 20th of January. When their supply of eels gave out, they hunted +the elk and such other wild beasts as they could find until spring, when I +was able to supply them with various things. I paid especial attention to +their customs. + +These people suffer so much from lack of food that they are sometimes +obliged to live on certain shell-fish, and eat their dogs and the skins +with which they clothe themselves against the cold. I am of opinion that, +if one were to show them how to live, and teach them the cultivation of the +soil and other things, they would learn very aptly. For many of them +possess good sense, and answer properly questions put to them. They have a +bad habit of taking vengeance, and are great liars, and you must not put +much reliance on them, except judiciously, and with force at hand. They +make promises readily, but keep their word poorly. The most of them observe +no law at all, so far as I have been able to see, and are, besides, full of +superstitions. I asked them with what ceremonies they were accustomed to +pray to their God, when they replied that they had none, but that each +prayed to him in his heart, as he wished. That is why there is no law among +them, and they do not know what it is to worship and pray to God, living as +they do like brute beasts. But I think that they would soon become good +Christians, if people would come and inhabit their country, which they are +for the most part desirous of. There are some savages among them, called by +them Pilotais, whom they believe have intercourse with the devil face to +face, who tells them what they must do in regard to war and other things; +and, if he should order them to execute any undertaking, they would obey at +once. So, also, they believe that all their dreams are true; and, in fact, +there are many who say that they have had visions and dreams about matters +which actually come to pass or will do so. But, to tell the truth, these +are diabolical visions, through which they are deceived and misled. This is +all I have been able to learn about their brutish faith. All these people +are well proportioned in body, without deformity, and are agile. The women, +also, are well-formed, plump, and of a swarthy color, in consequence of +certain pigments with which they rub themselves, and which give them a +permanent olive color. They are dressed in skins: a part only of the body +is covered. But in winter they are covered throughout, in good furs of elk, +otter, beaver, bear, seals, deer, and roe, of which they have large +quantities. In winter, when the snow is deep, they make a sort of snow-shoe +of large size, two or three times as large as that used in France, which +they attach to their feet, thus going over the snow without sinking in; +otherwise, they could not hunt or walk in many places. They have a sort of +marriage, which is as follows: When a girl is fourteen or fifteen years +old, and has several suitors, she may keep company with all she likes. At +the end of five or six years, she takes the one that pleases her for her +husband, and they live together to the end of their lives. But if, after +living some time together, they have no children, the man can disunite +himself and take another woman, alleging that his own is good for nothing. +Hence, the girls have greater freedom than the married women. + +After marriage, the women are chaste, and their husbands generally +jealous. They give presents to the fathers or relatives of the girls they +have wedded. These are the ceremonies and forms observed in their +marriages. In regard to their burials: When a man or a woman dies, they dig +a pit, in which they put all their property, as kettles, furs, axes, bows, +arrows, robes, and other things. Then they place the body in the pit and +cover it with earth, putting, on top many large pieces of wood, and another +piece upright, painted red on the upper part. They believe in the +immortality of the soul, and say that they shall be happy in other lands +with their relatives and friends who are dead. In the case of captains or +others of some distinction, they celebrate a banquet three times a year +after their death, singing and dancing about the grave. + +All the time they were with us, which was the most secure place for them, +they did not cease to fear their enemies to such an extent that they often +at night became alarmed while dreaming, and sent their wives and children +to our fort, the gates of which I had opened to them, allowing the men to +remain about the fort, but not permitting them to enter, for their persons +were thus as much in security as if they had been inside. I also had five +or six of our men go out to reassure them, and to go and ascertain whether +they could see any thing in the woods, in order to quiet them. They are +very timid and in great dread of their enemies, scarcely ever sleeping in +repose in whatever place they may be, although I constantly reassured them, +so far as I could, urging them to do as we did; namely, that they should +have a portion watch while the others slept, that each one should have his +arms in readiness like him who was keeping watch, and that they should not +regard dreams as the actual truth to be relied upon, since they are mostly +only false, to which I also added other words on the same subject. But +these remonstrances were of little avail with them, and they said that we +knew better than they how to keep guard against all things; and that they, +in course of time, if we continued to stay with them, would be able to +learn it. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +SEEDS AND VINES PLANTED AT QUEBEC.--COMMENCEMENT OF THE WINTER AND ICE.-- +EXTREME DESTITUTION OF CERTAIN INDIANS. + + +On the 1st of October, I had some wheat sown, and on the 15th some rye. On +the 3d, there was a white frost in some places, and the leaves of the trees +began to fall on the 15th. On the 24th, I had some native vines set out, +which flourished very well. But, after leaving the settlement to go to +France, they were all spoiled from lack of attention, at which I was much +troubled on my return. On the 18th of November, there was a great fall of +snow, which remained only two days on the ground, during which time there +was a violent gale of wind. There died during this month a sailor and our +locksmith [319] of dysentery, so also many Indians from eating eels badly +cooked, as I think. On the 5th of February, it snowed violently, and the +wind was high for two days. On the 20th, some Indians appeared on the other +side of the river, calling to us to go to their assistance, which was +beyond our power, on account of the large amount of ice drifting in the +river. Hunger pressed upon these poor wretches so severely that, not +knowing what to do, they resolved, men, women, and children, to cross the +river or die, hoping that I should assist them in their extreme want. +Having accordingly made this resolve, the men and women took the children +and embarked in their canoes, thinking that they could reach our shore by +an opening in the ice made by the wind; but they were scarcely in the +middle of the stream when their canoes were caught by the ice and broken +into a thousand pieces. But they were skilful enough to throw themselves +with the children, which the women carried on their backs, on a large piece +of ice. As they were on it, we heard them crying out so that it excited +intense pity, as before them there seemed nothing but death. But fortune +was so favorable to these poor wretches that a large piece of ice struck +against the side of that on which they were, so violently as to drive them +ashore. On seeing this favorable turn, they reached the shore with as much +delight as they ever experienced, notwithstanding the great hunger from +which they were suffering. They proceeded to our abode, so thin and haggard +that they seemed like mere skeletons, most of them not being able to hold +themselves up. I was astonished to see them, and observe the manner in +which they had crossed, in view of their being so feeble and weak. I +ordered some bread and beans to be given them. So great was their +impatience to eat them, that they could not wait to have them cooked. I +lent them also some bark, which other savages had given me, to cover their +cabins. As they were making their cabin, they discovered a piece of +carrion, which I had had thrown out nearly two months before to attract the +foxes, of which we caught black and red ones, like those in France, but +with heavier fur. This carrion consisted of a sow and a dog, which had +sustained all the rigors of the weather, hot and cold. When the weather was +mild, it stank so badly that one could not go near it. Yet they seized it +and carried it off to their cabin, where they forthwith devoured it half +cooked. No meat ever seemed to them to taste better. I sent two or three +men to warn them not to eat it, unless they wanted to die: as they +approached their cabin, they smelt such a stench from this carrion half +warmed up, each one of the Indians holding a piece in his hand, that they +thought they should disgorge, and accordingly scarcely stopped at all. +These poor wretches finished their repast. I did not fail, however, to +supply them according to my resources; but this was little, in view of the +large number of them. In the space of a month, they would have eaten up all +our provisions, if they had had them in their power, they are so +gluttonous: for, when they have edibles, they lay nothing aside, but keep +consuming them day and night without respite, afterwards dying of hunger. +They did also another thing as disgusting as that just mentioned. I had +caused a bitch to be placed on the top of a tree, which allured the martens +[320] and birds of prey, from which I derived pleasure, since generally +this carrion was attacked by them. These savages went to the tree, and, +being too weak to climb it, cut it down and forthwith took away the dog, +which was only skin and bones, the tainted head emitting a stench, but +which was at once devoured. + +This is the kind of enjoyment they experience for the most part in winter; +for in summer they are able to support themselves, and to obtain provisions +so as not to be assailed by such extreme hunger, the rivers abounding in +fish, while birds and wild animals fill the country about. The soil is very +good and well adapted for tillage, if they would but take pains to plant +Indian corn, as all their neighbors do, the Algonquins, Ochastaiguins, +[321] and Iroquois, who are not attacked by such extremes of hunger, which +they provide against by their carefulness and foresight, so that they live +happily in comparison with the Montagnais, Canadians, and Souriquois along +the seacoast. This is in the main their wretched manner of life. The snow +and ice last three months there, from January to the 8th of April, when it +is nearly all melted: at the latest, it is only seldom that any is seen at +the end of the latter month at our settlement. It is remarkable that so +much snow and ice as there is on the river, and which is from two to three +fathoms thick, is all melted in less than twelve days. From Tadoussac to +Gaspé, Cape Breton, Newfoundland, and the Great Bay, the snow and ice +continue in most places until the end of May, at which time the entire +entrance of the great river is sealed with ice; although at Quebec there is +none at all, showing a strange difference for one hundred and twenty +leagues in longitude, for the entrance to the river is in latitude 49° 50' +to 51°, and our settlement [322] in 46° 40'. + + +ENDNOTES: + +310. The river St. Charles flows from a lake in the interior of the same + name. It was called by the Montagnais, according to Sagard as cited by + Laverdière, _in loco_, "Cabirecoubat, because it turns and forms + several points." Cartier named it the Holy Cross, or St. Croix, + because he says he arrived there "that day;" that is, the day on which + the exaltation of the Cross is celebrated, the 14th of September, + 1535.--_Vide Cartier_, Hakluyt, Vol. III. p. 266. The Récollects gave + it the name of St. Charles, after the grand vicar of Pontoise, Charles + des Boues.--_Laverdière, in loco_. Jacques Cartier wintered on the + north shore of the St. Charles, which he called the St. Croix, or the + Holy Cross, about a league from Quebec. "Hard by, there is, in that + river, one place very narrow, deep, and swift running, but it is not + passing the third part of a league, over against the which there is a + goodly high piece of land, with a towne therein: and the country about + it is very well tilled and wrought, and as good as possibly can be + seene. This is the place and abode of Donnacona, and of our two men we + took in our first voyage, it is called Stadacona ... under which towne + toward the North the river and port of the holy crosse is, where we + staied from the 15 of September until the 16 of May, 1536, and there + our ships remained dry as we said before."--_Vide Jacques Cartier, + Second Voyage_, Hakluyt, Vol. III. p. 277. + +311. The spot where Jacques Cartier wintered was at the junction of the + river Lairet and the St. Charles. + +312. Cartier discovered the Isle of Coudres, that is, the isle of filberts + or hazel-nuts, on the 6th of September, 1535.--_Vide Cartier_, 1545, + D'Avezac ed., Paris, 1863, p. 12. This island is five nautical miles + long, which agrees with the statement of Champlain, and its greatest + width, is two miles and a quarter. + +313. Notre Dame Day, _iour de nostre dame_, should read "Notre Dame Eve." + Cartier says, "_Le septiesme iour dudict moys iour nostre-dame_," + etc.--_Idem_, p. 12. Hakluyt renders it, "The seventh of the moneth + being our Ladees even."--Vol. III. p. 265. + +314. As Champlain suggests, these islands are only three leagues higher up + the river; but, as they are on the opposite side, they could not be + compassed in much less than seven or eight leagues, as Cartier + estimates. + +315. This was an error in transcribing. Cartier has Stadacone.--_Vide Brief + Récit_, 1545, D'Avezac ed., p. 14. + +316. The distance, according to Laurie's Chart, is at least twenty-six + nautical miles. + +317. Canada at this time was regarded by the Indians as a limited + territory, situated at or about Quebec. This statement is confirmed by + the testimony of Cartier: "Ledict Donnacona pria nostre cappitaine de + aller le lendemain veoir Canada, Ce que luy promist le dist + cappitaine. Et le lendemam, 13. iour du diet moys, ledict cappitaine + auecques ses gentilz homines accompaigne de cinquante compaignons bien + en ordre, allerèt veoir ledict Donnacona & son peuple, qui est distàt + dou estoient lesdictes nauires d'une lieue."--_Vide Brief Récit_, + 1545, D'Avezac ed., p. 29. Of the above the following is Hakluyt's + translation: "Donnacona their Lord desired our Captaine the next day + to come and see Canada, which he promised to doe: for the next day + being the 13 of the moneth, he with all his Gentlemen and fiftie + Mariners very well appointed, went to visite Donnacona and his people, + about a league from our ships." + + Their ships were at this time at St. Croix, a short distance up the + St. Charles, which flows into the St. Lawrence at Quebec; and the + little Indian village, or camp, which Donnacona called Canada, was at + Quebec. Other passages from Cartier, as well as from Jean Alfonse, + harmonize with this which we have cited. Canada was therefore in + Cartier's time only the name of a very small territory covered by an + Indian village. When it became the centre of French interests, it + assumed a wider meaning. The St. Lawrence was often called the River + of Canada, then the territory on its shores, and finally Canada has + come to comprehend the vast British possessions in America known as + the "Dominion of Canada." + +318. The locality of Cartier's winter-quarters is established by Champlain + with the certainty of an historical demonstration, and yet there are + to be found those whose judgment is so warped by preconceived opinion + that they resist the overwhelming testimony which he brings to bear + upon the subject. Charlevoix makes the St. Croix of Cartier the + Rivière de Jacques Cartier.--_Vide Shea's Charlevoix_, Vol. I. p. 116. + +319. Unless they had more than one locksmith, this must have been Antoine + Natel.--_Vide antea_, p. 178. + +320. _Martres_. The common weasel, _Mustela vulgaris_. + +321. _Ochastaiguins_. This, says Laverdière, is what Champlain first called + the Hurons, from the name of Ochateguin, one of their chiefs. Huron + was a nickname: the proper name of this tribe was Wendot or + Wyandot. They occupied the eastern bank of Lake Huron and the southern + shores of the Georgian Bay. The knowledge of the several tribes here + referred to had been obtained by Champlain, partly from his own + observation and partly from the Indians. The Algommequins or + Algonquins, known at this time to Champlain, were from the region of + the Ottawa. The Yroquois or Iroquois dwelt south of the St. Lawrence + in the State of New York, and comprised what are generally known as + the Five Nations. The Montagnais or Montaignets had their great + trading-post at Tadoussac, and roamed over a vast territory north and + east of that point, and west of it as far as the mountains that + separate the waters of the Saguenay and those of the Ottawa. The name + was given to them by the French from this mountain range. The + Canadians were those about the neighborhood of Quebec. The Souriquois + were of Nova Scotia, and subsequently known as Micmacs. Of most of + these different tribes, Champlain could speak from personal knowledge. + +322. Laverdière gives the exact latitude of Quebec at the Observatory, on + the authority of Captain Bayfield, as 46° 49' 8". + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +THE SCURVY AT QUEBEC.--How THE WINTER PASSED.--DESCRIPTION OF THE PLACE.-- +ARRIVAL AT QUEBEC OF SIEUR DES MARAIS, SON-IN-LAW OF PONT GRAVÉ. + + +The scurvy began very late; namely, in February, and continued until the +middle of April. Eighteen were attacked, and ten died; five others dying of +the dysentery. I had some opened, to see whether they were tainted, like +those I had seen in our other settlements. They were found the same. Some +time after, our surgeon died. [323] All this troubled us very much, on +account of the difficulty we had in attending to the sick. The nature of +this disease I have described before. + +It is my opinion that this disease proceeds only from eating excessively of +salt food and vegetables, which heat the blood and corrupt the internal +parts. The winter is also, in part, its cause; since it checks the natural +warmth, causing a still greater corruption of the blood. There rise also +from the earth, when first cleared up, certain vapors which infect the air: +this has been observed in the case of those who have lived at other +settlements; after the first year when the sun had been let in upon what +was not before cleared up, as well in our abode as in other places, the air +was much better, and the diseases not so violent as before. But the country +is fine and pleasant, and brings to maturity all kinds of grains and feeds, +there being found all the various kinds of trees, which we have here in our +forests, and many fruits, although they are naturally wild; as, nut-trees, +cherry-trees, plum-trees, vines, raspberries, strawberries, currants, both +green and red, and several other small fruits, which are very good. There +are also several kinds of excellent plants and roots. Fishing is abundant +in the rivers; and game without limit on the numerous meadows bordering +them. From the month of April to the 15th of December, the air is so pure +and healthy that one does not experience the slightest indisposition. But +January, February, and March are dangerous, on account of the sicknesses +prevailing at this time, rather than in summer, for the reasons before +given; for, as to treatment, all of my company were well clothed, provided +with good beds, and well warmed and fed, that is, with the salt meats we +had, which, in my opinion, injured them greatly, as I have already stated. +As far as I have been able to see, the sickness attacks one who is delicate +in his living and takes particular care of himself as readily as one whose +condition is as wretched as possible. We supposed at first that the +workmen only would be attacked with this disease; but this we found was not +the case. Those sailing to the East Indies and various other regions, as +Germany and England, are attacked with it as well as in New France. Some +time ago, the Flemish, being attacked with this malady in their voyages to +the Indies, found a very strange remedy, which might be of service to us; +but we have never ascertained the character of it. Yet I am confident that, +with good bread and fresh meat, a person would not be liable to it. + +On the 8th of April, the snow had all melted; and yet the air was still +very cold until April, [324] when the trees begin to leaf out. + +Some of those sick with the scurvy were cured when Spring came, which is +the season for recovery. I had a savage of the country wintering with me, +who was attacked with this disease from having changed his diet to salt +meat; and he died from its effects, which clearly shows that salt food is +not nourishing, but quite the contrary in this disease. + +On the 5th of June, a shallop arrived at our settlement with Sieur des +Marais, a son-in-law of Pont Gravé, bringing us the tidings that his +father-in-law had arrived at Tadoussac on the 28th of May. This +intelligence gave me much satisfaction, as we entertained hopes of +assistance from him. Only eight out of the twenty-eight at first forming +our company were remaining, and half of these were ailing. + +On the 7th of June, I set out from Quebec for Tadoussac on some matters of +business, and asked Sieur des Marais to stay in my place until my return, +which he did. + +Immediately upon my arrival, Pont Gravé and I had a conference in regard to +some explorations which I was to make in the interior, where the savages +had promised to guide us. We determined that I should go in a shallop with +twenty men, and that Pont Gravé should stay at Tadoussac to arrange the +affairs of our settlement; and this determination was carried out, he +spending the winter there. This arrangement was especially desirable, since +I was to return to France, according to the orders sent out by Sieur de +Monts, in order to inform him of what I had done and the explorations I had +made in the country. + +After this decision, I set out at once from Tadoussac, and returned to +Quebec, where I had a shallop fitted out with all that was necessary for +making explorations in the country of the Iroquois, where I was to go with +our allies, the Montagnais. + + +ENDNOTES: + +323. His name was Bonnerme.--_Vide antea_, p. 180. + +324. Read May instead of April. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +DEPARTURE FROM QUEBEC AND VOYAGE TO THE ÎLE ST. ÉLOI.--MEETING THERE WITH +THE ALGONQUINS AND OCHATAIGUINS. + + +With this purpose, I set out on the 18th of the month. Here the river +begins to widen, in some places to the breadth of a league or a league and +a half. The country becomes more and more beautiful. There are hills along +the river in part, and in part it is a level country, with but few rocks. +The river itself is dangerous in many places, in consequence of its banks +and rocks; and it is not safe sailing without keeping the lead in hand. The +river is very abundant in many kinds of fish, not only such as we have +here, but others which we have not. The country is thickly covered with +massive and lofty forests, of the same kind of trees as we have about our +habitation. There are also many vines and nut-trees on the bank of the +river, and many small brooks and streams which are only navigable with +canoes. We passed near Point St. Croix, which many maintain, as I have said +elsewhere, is the place where Jacques Cartier spent the winter. This point +is sandy, extending some distance out into the river, and exposed to the +north-west wind, which beats upon it. There are some meadows, covered +however every full tide, which falls nearly two fathoms and a half. This +passage is very dangerous on account of the large number of rocks +stretching across the river, although there is a good but very winding +channel, where the river runs like a race, rendering it necessary to take +the proper time for passing. This place has deceived many, who thought +they could only pass at high tide from there being no channel: but we have +now found the contrary to be true, for one can go down at low tide; but it +would be difficult to ascend, in consequence of the strong current, unless +there were a good wind. It is consequently necessary to wait until the tide +is a third flood, in order to pass, when the current in the channel is six, +eight, ten, twelve, and fifteen fathoms deep. + +Continuing our course, we reached a very pleasant river, nine leagues +distant from St. Croix and twenty-four from Quebec. This we named +St. Mary's River. [325] The river all the way from St. Croix is very +pleasant. + +Pursuing our route, I met some two or three hundred savages, who were +encamped in huts near a little island called St. Éloi, [326] a league and a +half distant from St. Mary. We made a reconnoissance, and found that they +were tribes of savages, called Ochateguins and Algonquins, [327] on their +way to Quebec, to assist us in exploring the territory of the Iroquois, +with whom they are in deadly hostility, sparing nothing belonging to their +enemies. + +After reconnoitring, I went on shore to see them, and inquired who their +chief was. They told me there were two, one named Yroquet, and the other +Ochasteguin, whom they pointed out to me. I went to their cabin, where they +gave me a cordial reception, as is their custom. + +I proceeded to inform them of the object of my voyage, with which they were +greatly pleased. After some talk, I withdrew. Some time after, they came to +my shallop, and presented me with some peltry, exhibiting many tokens of +pleasure. Then they returned to the shore. + +The next day, the two chiefs came to see me, when they remained some time +without saying a word, meditating and smoking all the while. After due +reflection, they began to harangue in a loud voice all their companions who +were on the bank of the river, with their arms in their hands, and +listening very attentively to what their chiefs said to them, which was as +follows: that nearly ten moons ago, according to their mode of reckoning, +the son of Yroquet had seen me, and that I had given him a good reception, +and declared that Pont Gravé and I desired to assist them against their +enemies, with whom they had for a long time been at warfare, on account of +many cruel acts committed by them against their tribe, under color of +friendship; that, having ever since longed for vengeance, they had +solicited all the savages, whom I saw on the bank of the river, to come and +make an alliance with us, and that their never having seen Christians also +impelled them to come and visit us; that I should do with them and their +companions as I wished; that they had no children with them, but men versed +in war and full of courage, acquainted with the country and rivers in the +land of the Iroquois; that now they entreated me to return to our +settlement, that they might see our houses, and that, after three days, we +should all together come back to engage in the war; that, as a token of +firm friendship and joy, I should have muskets and arquebuses fired, at +which they would be greatly pleased. This I did, when they uttered great +cries of astonishment, especially those who had never heard nor seen the +like. + +After hearing them, I replied that, if they desired, I should be very glad +to return to our settlement, to gratify them still more; and that they +might conclude that I had no other purpose than to engage in the war, since +we carried with us nothing but arms, and not merchandise for barter, as +they had been given to understand; and that my only desire was to fulfill +what I had promised them; and that, if I had known of any who had made evil +reports to them, I should regard them as enemies more than they did +themselves. They told me that they believed nothing of them, and that they +never had heard any one speak thus. But the contrary was the case; for +there were some savages who told it to ours. I contented myself with +waiting for an opportunity to show them in fact something more than they +could have expected from me. + + +ENDNOTES: + +325. This river is now called the Sainte Anne. + +326. A small island near Batiscan, not on the charts. + +327. Hurons and Algonquins. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +RETURN TO QUEBEC.--CONTINUATION AFTERWARDS WITH THE SAVAGES TO THE FALL OF +THE RIVER OF THE IROQUOIS. + + +The next day, we set out all together for our settlement, where they +enjoyed themselves some five or six days, which were spent in dances and +festivities, on account of their eagerness for us to engage in the war. + +Pont Gravé came forthwith from Tadoussac with two little barques full of +men, in compliance with a letter, in which I begged him to come as +speedily as possible. + +The savages seeing him arrive rejoiced more than ever, inasmuch as I told +them that he had given some of his men to assist them, and that perhaps we +should go together. + +On the 28th of the month, [328] we equipped some barques for assisting +these savages. Pont Gravé embarked on one and I on the other, when we all +set out together. The first of June, [329] we arrived at St. Croix, distant +fifteen leagues from Quebec, where Pont Gravé and I concluded that, for +certain reasons, I should go with the savages, and he to our settlement and +to Tadoussac. This resolution being taken, I embarked in my shallop all +that was necessary, together with Des Marais and La Routte, our pilot, and +nine men. + +I set out from St. Croix on the 3d of June [330] with all the savages. We +passed the Trois Rivières, a very beautiful country, covered with a growth +of fine trees. From this place to St. Croix is a distance of fifteen +leagues. At the mouth of the above-named river [331] there are six islands, +three of which are very small, the others some fifteen to sixteen hundred +paces long, very pleasant in appearance. Near Lake St. Peter, [332] some +two leagues up the river, there is a little fall not very difficult to +pass. This place is in latitude 46°, lacking some minutes. The savages of +the country gave us to understand that some days' journey up this river +there is a lake, through which the river flows. The length of the lake is +ten days' journey, when some falls are passed, and afterwards three or four +other lakes of five or six days' journey in length. Having reached the end +of these, they go four or five leagues by land, and enter still another +lake, where the Sacqué has its principal source. From this lake, the +savages go to Tadoussac. [333] The Trois Rivières extends forty days' +journey of the savages. They say that at the end of this river there is a +people, who are great hunters, without a fixed abode, and who are less than +six days' journey from the North Sea. What little of the country I have +seen is sandy, very high, with hills, covered with large quantities of pine +and fir on the river border; but some quarter of a league inland the woods +are very fine and open, and the country level. Thence we continued our +course to the entrance of Lake St. Peter, where the country is exceedingly +pleasant and level, and crossed the lake, in two, three, and four fathoms +of water, which is some eight leagues long and four wide. On the north +side, we saw a very pleasant river, extending some twenty leagues into the +interior, which I named St. Suzanne; on the south side, there are two, one +called Rivière du Pont, the other, Rivière de Gennes, [334] which are very +pretty, and in a fine and fertile country. The water is almost still in the +lake, which is full of fish. On the north bank, there are seen some slight +elevations at a distance of some twelve or fifteen leagues from the lake. +After crossing the lake, we passed a large number of islands of various +sizes, containing many nut-trees and vines, and fine meadows, with +quantities of game and wild animals, which go over from the main land to +these islands. Fish are here more abundant than in any other part of the +river that we had seen. From these islands, we went to the mouth of the +River of the Iroquois, where we stayed two days, refreshing ourselves with +good venison, birds, and fish, which the savages gave us. Here there sprang +up among them some difference of opinion on the subject of the war, so that +a portion only determined to go with me, while the others returned to their +country with their wives and the merchandise which they had obtained by +barter. + +Setting out from the mouth of this river, which is some four hundred to +five hundred paces broad, and very beautiful, running southward, [335] we +arrived at a place in latitude 45°, and twenty-two or twenty-three leagues +from the Trois Rivières. All this river from its mouth to the first fall, +a distance of fifteen leagues, is very smooth, and bordered with woods, +like all the other places before named, and of the same sorts. There are +nine or ten fine islands before reaching the fall of the Iroquois, which +are a league or a league and a half long, and covered with numerous oaks +and nut-trees. The river is nearly half a league wide in places, and very +abundant in fish. We found in no place less than four feet of water. The +approach to the fall is a kind of lake, [336] where the water descends, and +which is some three leagues in circuit. There are here some meadows, but +not inhabited by savages on account of the wars. There is very little water +at the fall, which runs with great rapidity. There are also many rocks and +stones, so that the savages cannot go up by water, although they go down +very easily. All this region is very level, covered with forests, vines, +and nut-trees. No Christians had been in this place before us; and we had +considerable difficulty in ascending the river with oars. + +As soon as we had reached the fall, Des Marais, La Routte, and I, with five +men, went on shore to see whether we could pass this place; but we went +some league and a half without seeing any prospect of being able to do so, +finding only water running with great swiftness, and in all directions many +stones, very dangerous, and with but little water about them. The fall is +perhaps six hundred paces broad. Finding that it was impossible to cut a +way through the woods with the small number of men that I had, I +determined, after consultation with the rest, to change my original +resolution, formed on the assurance of the savages that the roads were +easy, but which we did not find to be the case, as I have stated. We +accordingly returned to our shallop, where I had left some men as guards, +and to indicate to the savages upon their arrival that we had gone to make +explorations along the fall. + +After making what observations I wished in this place, we met, on +returning, some savages, who had come to reconnoitre, as we had done. They +told us that all their companions had arrived at our shallop, where we +found them greatly pleased, and delighted that we had gone in this manner +without a guide, aided only by the reports they had several times made to +us. + +Having returned, and seeing the slight prospect there was of passing the +fall with our shallop, I was much troubled. And it gave me especial +dissatisfaction to go back without seeing a very large lake, filled with +handsome islands, and with large tracts of fine land bordering on the lake, +where their enemies live according to their representations. After duly +thinking over the matter, I determined to go and fulfil my promise, and +carry out my desire. Accordingly, I embarked with the savages in their +canoes, taking with me two men, who went cheerfully. After making known my +plan to Des Marais and others in the shallop, I requested the former to +return to our settlement with the rest of our company, giving them the +assurance that, in a short time, by God's grace, I would return to them. + +I proceeded forthwith to have a conference with the captains of the +savages, and gave them to understand that they had told me the opposite of +what my observations found to be the case at the fall; namely, that it was +impossible to pass it with the shallop, but that this would not prevent me +from assisting them as I had promised. This communication troubled them +greatly; and they desired to change their determination, but I urged them +not to do so, telling them that they ought to carry out their first plan, +and that I, with two others, would go to the war with them in their canoes, +in order to show them that, as for me, I would not break my word given to +them, although alone; but that I was unwilling then to oblige any one of my +companions to embark, and would only take with me those who had the +inclination to go, of whom I had found two. + +They were greatly pleased at what I said to them, and at the determination +which I had taken, promising, as before, to show me fine things. + + +ENDNOTES: + +328. The reader will observe that this must have been the 28th of June, + 1609. + +329. Read 1st of July. + +330. Read 3d of July. + +331. The river is now called St. Maurice; and the town at its mouth, Three + Rivers. Two islands at the mouth of the river divide it into three; + hence, it was originally called Trois Rivières, or Three Rivers. + +332. Laverdière suggests that Champlain entered this lake, now for the + first time called St. Peter, in 1603, on St. Peter's day, the 29th + June, and probably so named it from that circumstance. + +333. From the carrying-place they enter the Lake St. John, and from it + descend by the Saguenay to Tadoussac. In the preceding passage, Sacqué + was plainly intended for Saguenay. + +334. Of the three rivers flowing into Lake St. Peter, none retains the name + given to them by Champlain. His _St. Suzanne_ is the river du Loup; + his _Rivière du Pont_ is the river St. François; and his _De Gennes_ + is now represented by the Yamaska. Compare Champlain's map of 1612 + with Laurie's Chart of the river St. Lawrence. + +335. This is an error: the River of the Iroquois, now commonly known as the + Richelieu, runs towards the north. + +336. The Chambly Basin. On Charlevoix's Carte de la Rivière Richelieu, it + is called Bassin de St. Louis. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +DEPARTURE FROM THE FALL OF THE IROQUOIS RIVER.--DESCRIPTION OF A LARGE +LAKE.--ENCOUNTER WITH THE ENEMY AT THIS LAKE; THEIR MANNER OF ATTACKING THE +IROQUOIS, AND THEIR BEHAVIOR IN BATTLE. + + +I set out accordingly from the fall of the Iroquois River [337] on the 2d +of July. [338] All the savages set to carrying their canoes, arms, and +baggage overland, some half a league, in order to pass by the violence and +strength of the fall, which was speedily accomplished. Then they put them +all in the water again, two men in each with the baggage; and they caused +one of the men of each canoe to go by land some three leagues, [339] the +extent of the fall, which is not, however, so violent here as at the mouth, +except in some places, where rocks obstruct the river, which is not broader +than three hundred or four hundred paces. After we had passed the fall, +which was attended with difficulty, all the savages, who had gone by land +over a good path and level country, although there are a great many trees, +re-embarked in their canoes. My men went also by land; but I went in a +canoe. The savages made a review of all their followers, finding that there +were twenty-four canoes, with sixty men. After the review was completed, we +continued our course to an island, [340] three leagues long, filled with +the finest pines I had ever seen. Here they went hunting, and captured +some wild animals. Proceeding about three leagues farther on, we made a +halt, in order to rest the coming night. + +They all at once set to work, some to cut wood, and others to obtain the +bark of trees for covering their cabins, for the sake of sheltering +themselves, others to fell large trees for; constructing a barricade on the +river-bank around their cabins, which they do so quickly that in less than +two hours so much is accomplished that five hundred of their enemies would +find it very difficult to dislodge them without killing large numbers. They +make no barricade on the river-bank, where their canoes are drawn up, in +order that they may be able to embark, if occasion requires. After they +were established in their cabins, they despatched three canoes, with nine +good men, according to their custom in all their encampments, to +reconnoitre for a distance of two or three leagues, to see if they can +perceive any thing, after which they return. They rest the entire night, +depending upon the observation of these scouts, which is a very bad custom +among them; for they are sometimes while sleeping surprised by their +enemies, who slaughter them before they have time to get up and prepare for +defence. Noticing this, I remonstrated with them on the mistake they made, +and told them that they ought to keep watch, as they had seen us do every +night, and have men on the lookout, in order to listen and see whether they +perceived any thing, and that they should not live in such a manner like +beasts. They replied that they could not keep watch, and that they worked +enough in the day-time in the chase, since, when engaged in war, they +divide their troops into three parts: namely, a part for hunting scattered +in several places; another to constitute the main body of their army, which +is always under arms; and the third to act as _avant-coureurs_, to look out +along the rivers, and observe whether they can see any mark or signal +showing where their enemies or friends have passed. This they ascertain by +certain marks which the chiefs of different tribes make known to each +other; but, these not continuing always the same, they inform themselves +from time to time of changes, by which means they ascertain whether they +are enemies or friends who have passed. The hunters never hunt in advance +of the main body, or _avant-coureurs_, so as not to excite alarm or produce +disorder, but in the rear and in the direction from which they do not +anticipate their enemy. Thus they advance until they are within two or +three days' march of their enemies, when they proceed by night stealthily +and all in a body, except the _van-couriers_. By day, they withdraw into +the interior of the woods, where they rest, without straying off, neither +making any noise nor any fire, even for the sake of cooking, so as not to +be noticed in case their enemies should by accident pass by. They make no +fire, except in smoking, which amounts to almost nothing. They eat baked +Indian meal, which they soak in water, when it becomes a kind of porridge. +They provide themselves with such meal to meet their wants, when they are +near their enemies, or when retreating after a charge, in which case they +are not inclined to hunt, retreating immediately. + +In all their encampments, they have their Pilotois, or Ostemoy, [341] a +class of persons who play the part of soothsayers, in whom these people +have faith. One of these builds a cabin, surrounds it with small pieces of +wood, and covers it with his robe: after it is built, he places himself +inside, so as not to be seen at all, when he seizes and shakes one of the +posts of his cabin, muttering some words between his teeth, by which he +says he invokes the devil, who appears to him in the form of a stone, and +tells him whether they will meet their enemies and kill many of them. This +Pilotois lies prostrate on the ground, motionless, only speaking with the +devil: on a sudden, he rises to his feet, talking, and tormenting himself +in such a manner that, although naked, he is all of a perspiration. All the +people surround the cabin, seated on their buttocks, like apes. They +frequently told me that the shaking of the cabin, which I saw, proceeded +from the devil, who made it move, and not the man inside, although I could +see the contrary; for, as I have stated above, it was the Pilotois who took +one of the supports of the cabin, and made it move in this manner. They +told me also that I should see fire come out from the top, which I did not +see at all. These rogues counterfeit also their voice, so that it is heavy +and clear, and speak in a language unknown to the other savages. And, when +they represent it as broken, the savages think that the devil is speaking, +and telling them what is to happen in their war, and what they must do. + +But all these scapegraces, who play the soothsayer, out of a hundred words, +do not speak two that are true, and impose upon these poor people. There +are enough like them in the world, who take food from the mouths of the +people by their impostures, as these worthies do. I often remonstrated with +the people, telling them that all they did was sheer nonsense, and that +they ought not to put confidence in them. + +Now, after ascertaining from their soothsayers what is to be their fortune, +the chiefs take sticks a foot long, and as many as there are soldiers. They +take others, somewhat larger, to indicate the chiefs. Then they go into the +wood, and seek out a level place, five or fix feet square, where the chief, +as sergeant-major, puts all the sticks in such order as seems to him best. +Then he calls all his companions, who come all armed; and he indicates to +them the rank and order they are to observe in battle with their enemies. +All the savages watch carefully this proceeding, observing attentively the +outline which their chief has made with the sticks. Then they go away, and +set to placing themselves in such order as the sticks were in, when they +mingle with each other, and return again to their proper order, which +manoeuvre they repeat two or three times, and at all their encampments, +without needing a sergeant to keep them in the proper order, which they are +able to keep accurately without any confusion. This is their rule in war. + +We set out on the next day, continuing our course in the river as far as +the entrance of the lake. There are many pretty islands here, low, and +containing very fine woods and meadows, with abundance of fowl and such +animals of the chase as stags, fallow-deer, fawns, roe-bucks, bears, and +others, which go from the main land to these islands. We captured a large +number of these animals. There are also many beavers, not only in this +river, but also in numerous other little ones that flow into it. These +regions, although they are pleasant, are not inhabited by any savages, on +account of their wars; but they withdraw as far as possible from the rivers +into the interior, in order not to be suddenly surprised. + +The next day we entered the lake, [342] which is of great extent, say +eighty or a hundred leagues long, where I saw four fine islands, ten, +twelve, and fifteen leagues long, which were formerly inhabited by the +savages, like the River of the Iroquois; but they have been abandoned since +the wars of the savages with one another prevail. There are also many +rivers falling into the lake, bordered by many fine trees of the same kinds +as those we have in France, with many vines finer than any I have seen in +any other place; also many chestnut-trees on the border of this lake, which +I had not seen before. There is also a great abundance of fish, of many +varieties: among others, one called by the savages of the country +_Chaousarou_ [343] which varies in length, the largest being, as the people +told me, eight or ten feet long. I saw some five feet long, which were as +large as my thigh; the head being as big as my two fists, with a snout two +feet and a half long, and a double row of very sharp and dangerous teeth. +Its body is, in shape, much like that of a pike; but it is armed with +scales so strong that a poniard could not pierce them. Its color is +silver-gray. The extremity of its snout is like that of a swine. This fish +makes war upon all others in the lakes and rivers. It also possesses +remarkable dexterity, as these people informed me, which is exhibited in +the following manner. When it wants to capture birds, it swims in among the +rushes, or reeds, which are found on the banks of the lake in several +places, where it puts its snout out of water and keeps perfectly still: so +that, when the birds come and light on its snout, supposing it to be only +the stump of a tree, it adroitly closes it, which it had kept ajar, and +pulls the birds by the feet down under water. The savages gave me the head +of one of them, of which they make great account, saying that, when they +have the headache, they bleed themselves with the teeth of this fish on the +spot where they suffer pain, when it suddenly passes away. + +Continuing our course over this lake on the western side, I noticed, while +observing the country, some very high mountains on the eastern side, on the +top of which there was snow. [344] I made inquiry of the savages whether +these localities were inhabited, when they told me that the Iroquois dwelt +there, and that there were beautiful valleys in these places, with plains +productive in grain, such as I had eaten in this country, together with +many kinds of fruit without limit. [345] They said also that the lake +extended near mountains, some twenty-five leagues distant from us, as I +judge. I saw, on the south, other mountains, no less high than the first, +but without any snow. [346] The savages told me that these mountains were +thickly settled, and that it was there we were to find their enemies; but +that it was necessary to pass a fall in order to go there (which I +afterwards saw), when we should enter another lake, nine or ten leagues +long. After reaching the end of the lake, we should have to go, they said, +two leagues by land, and pass through a river flowing into the sea on the +Norumbegue coast, near that of Florida, [347] whither it took them only two +days to go by canoe, as I have since ascertained from some prisoners we +captured, who gave me minute information in regard to all they had personal +knowledge of, through some Algonquin interpreters, who understood the +Iroquois language. + +Now, as we began to approach within two or three days' journey of the abode +of their enemies, we advanced only at night, resting during the day. But +they did not fail to practise constantly their accustomed superstitions, in +order to ascertain what was to be the result of their undertaking; and they +often asked me if I had had a dream, and seen their enemies, to which I +replied in the negative. Yet I did not cease to encourage them, and inspire +in them hope. When night came, we set out on the journey until the next +day, when we withdrew into the interior of the forest, and spent the rest +of the day there. About ten or eleven o'clock, after taking a little walk +about our encampment, I retired. While sleeping, I dreamed that I saw our +enemies, the Iroquois, drowning in the lake near a mountain, within sight. +When I expressed a wish to help them, our allies, the savages, told me we +must let them all die, and that they were of no importance. When I awoke, +they did not fail to ask me, as usual, if I had had a dream. I told them +that I had, in fact, had a dream. This, upon being related, gave them so +much confidence that they did not doubt any longer that good was to happen +to them. + +When it was evening, we embarked in our canoes to continue our course; and, +as we advanced very quietly and without making any noise, we met on the +29th of the month the Iroquois, about ten o'clock at evening, at the +extremity of a cape which extends into the lake on the western bank. They +had come to fight. We both began to utter loud cries, all getting their +arms in readiness. We withdrew out on the water, and the Iroquois went on +shore, where they drew up all their canoes close to each other and began to +fell trees with poor axes, which they acquire in war sometimes, using also +others of stone. Thus they barricaded themselves very well. + +Our forces also passed the entire night, their canoes being drawn up close +to each other, and fastened to poles, so that they might not get separated, +and that they might be all in readiness to fight, if occasion required. We +were out upon the water, within arrow range of their barricades. When they +were armed and in array, they despatched two canoes by themselves to the +enemy to inquire if they wished to fight, to which the latter replied that +they wanted nothing else; but they said that, at present, there was not +much light, and that it would be necessary to wait for daylight, so as to +be able to recognize each other; and that, as soon as the sun rose, they +would offer us battle. This was agreed to by our side. Meanwhile, the +entire night was spent in dancing and singing, on both sides, with endless +insults and other talk; as, how little courage we had, how feeble a +resistance we would make against their arms, and that, when day came, we +should realize it to our ruin. Ours also were not slow in retorting, +telling them they would see such execution of arms as never before, +together with an abundance of such talk as is not unusual in the siege of a +town. After this singing, dancing, and bandying words on both sides to the +fill, when day came, my companions and myself continued under cover, for +fear that the enemy would see us. We arranged our arms in the best manner +possible, being, however, separated, each in one of the canoes of the +savage Montagnais. After arming ourselves with light armor, we each took an +arquebuse, and went on shore. I saw the enemy go out of their barricade, +nearly two hundred in number, stout and rugged in appearance. They came at +a slow pace towards us, with a dignity and assurance which greatly amused +me, having three chiefs at their head. Our men also advanced in the same +order, telling me that those who had three large plumes were the chiefs, +and that they had only these three, and that they could be distinguished by +these plumes, which were much larger than those of their companions, and +that I should do what I could to kill them. I promised to do all in my +power, and said that I was very sorry they could not understand me, so that +I might give order and shape to their mode of attacking their enemies, and +then we should, without doubt, defeat them all; but that this could not now +be obviated, and that I should be very glad to show them my courage and +good-will when we should engage in the fight. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OP THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +DEFEAT OF THE IROQUOIS AT LAKE CHAMPLAIN. + +_A_. The fort of the Iroquois. +_B_. The enemy. +_C_. Canoes of the enemy, made of oak bark, each holding ten, fifteen, or + eighteen men. +_D_. Two chiefs who were killed. +_E_. One of the enemy wounded by a musket-shot of Sieur de Champlain. +_F_. Sieur de Champlain. +_G_. Two musketeers of Sieur de Champlain. +_H_. Montagnais, Ochastaiguins, and Algonquins. +_I_. Canoes of our allied savages made of birch bark. +_K_. The woods. + +NOTES. The letters _A_, _F_, _G_, and _K_, are wanting but the objects to +which they point are easily recognized. The letter _H_ has been placed on +the canoes of the allies instead of the collected body of the allies +immediately above them. + + * * * * * + +As soon as we had landed, they began to run for some two hundred paces +towards their enemies, who stood firmly, not having as yet noticed my +companions, who went into the woods with some savages. Our men began to +call me with loud cries; and, in order to give me a passage-way, they +opened in two parts, and put me at their head, where I marched some twenty +paces in advance of the rest, until I was within about thirty paces of the +enemy, who at once noticed me, and, halting, gazed at me, as I did also at +them. When I saw them making a move to fire at us, I rested my musket +against my cheek, and aimed directly at one of the three chiefs. With the +same shot, two fell to the ground; and one of their men was so wounded that +he died some time after. I had loaded my musket with four balls. When our +side saw this shot so favorable for them, they began to raise such loud +cries that one could not have heard it thunder. Meanwhile, the arrows flew +on both sides. The Iroquois were greatly astonished that two men had been +so quickly killed, although they were equipped with armor woven from cotton +thread, and with wood which was proof against their arrows. This caused +great alarm among them. As I was loading again, one of my companions fired +a shot from the woods, which astonished them anew to such a degree that, +seeing their chiefs dead, they lost courage, and took to flight, abandoning +their camp and fort, and fleeing into the woods, whither I pursued them, +killing still more of them. Our savages also killed several of them, and +took ten or twelve prisoners. The remainder escaped with the wounded. +Fifteen or sixteen were wounded on our side with arrow-shots; but they were +soon healed. + +After gaining the victory, our men amused themselves by taking a great +quantity of Indian corn and some meal from their enemies, also their armor, +which they had left behind that they might run better. After feasting +sumptuously, dancing and singing, we returned three hours after, with the +prisoners. The spot where this attack took place is in latitude 43° and +some minutes, [348] and the lake was called Lake Champlain. [349] + +ENDNOTES: + +337. The River of the Iroquois, so called by Champlain, was long known by + that name, says Charlevoix, because these Indians generally descended + it, in order to make their inroads into the colony. Fort Richelieu, at + the mouth of the river, erected in 1641, was named after the + celebrated Cardinal, the river having already taken his name. This + fort having been demolished, another was built by M. de Sorel, a + French officer in command, which took his name, as likewise did the + river. A fort was built on the same river at the present village of + Chambly in 1664, and called Fort St. Louis. This wooden structure was + replaced by another of stone, erected prior to 1721, to which the name + of Chambly was given, as likewise by some writers to the river. The + river has likewise sometimes been called the St. Johns, but the + prevailing name is the Richelieu. + +338. Read the 12th of July. + +339. This fall is now avoided, and the navigation of the Richelieu secured + by a canal connecting Chambly Basin and St. Johns, a distance of about + ten miles. + +340. It is not entirely certain what island is here referred to. It has + been supposed to be the Island of St. Thérèse. But, taking all of + Champlain's statements into consideration, the logical inference would + be that it is the Isle aux Noix. + +341. "These two words were used in Acadie to indicate the _jongleur_, or + sorcerer. The word _pilotois_, according to P. Biard, Rel. 1611, + p. 17, came from the Basques, the Souriquois using the word _autmoin_, + which Lescarbot writes _aoutmoin_, and Champlain _ostemoy_. + P. Lejeune, in the Relation of 1636, p. 13, informs us that the + Montagnais called their Sorcerers _manitousiouekbi_: and according to + P. Brébeuf. Rel. 1635. p.35. the Hurons designated theirs by the name + _arendiouane_."--_Laverdière, in loco_. + +342. The distances are here overstated by more than threefold, both in + reference to the lake and the islands. This arose, perhaps, from the + slow progress made in the birch canoes with a party of sixty + undisciplined savages, a method of travelling to which Champlain was + unaccustomed; and he may likewise have been misled by the + exaggerations of the Indians, or he may have failed to comprehend + their representation of distances. + +343. Of the meaning of _chaousarou_, the name given by the Indians to this + fish, we have no knowledge. It is now known as the bony-scaled pike, + or gar pike, _Lepidosteus osseus_. It is referred to by several early + writers after Champlain. + + "I saw," says Sagard, "in the cabin of a Montagnais Indian a certain + fish, which some call Chaousarou, as big as a large pike. It was only + an ordinary sized one, for many larger ones are seen, eight, nine, and + ten feet long, as is said. It had a snout about a foot and a half + long, of about the same shape as that of the snipe, except that the + extremity is blunt and not so pointed, and of a large size in + proportion to the body. It has a double row of teeth, which are very + sharp and dangerous;... and the form of the body is like that of a + pike, but it is armed with very stout and hard scales, of silver gray + color, and difficult to be pierced."--_Sagard's History of Canada_, + Bk. _iii_. p. 765; _Laverdière_. Sagard's work was published in 1636. + He had undoubtedly seen this singular fish; but his description is so + nearly in the words of Champlain as to suggest that he had taken it + from our author. + + Creuxius, in his History of Canada, published at Paris in 1664, + describes this fish nearly in the words of Champlain, with an + engraving sufficiently accurate for identification, but greatly + wanting in scientific exactness. He adds, "It is not described by + ancient authors, probably because it is only found in the Lake of the + Iroquois;" that is, in Lake Champlain. From which it may be inferred + that at that time it had not been discovered in other waters. By the + French, he says, it is called _piscis armatus_. This is in evident + allusion to its bony scales, in which it is protected as in a coat of + mail. + + It is described by Dr. Kay in the Natural History of New York, + Zoölogy, Part I. p 271. On Plate XLIII. Fig. 139, of the same work, + the reader will observe that the head of the fish there represented + strikingly resembles that of the chaousarou of Champlain as depicted + on his map of 1612. The drawing by Champlain is very accurate, and + clearly identifies the Gar Pike. This singular fish has been found in + Lake Champlain, the river St. Lawrence, and in the northern lakes, + likewise in the Mississippi River, where is to be found also a closely + related species commonly called the alligator gar. In the Museum of + the Boston Society of Natural History are several specimens, one of + them from St. John's River, Florida, four feet and nine inches in + length, of which the head is seventeen and a half inches. If the body + of those seen by Champlain was five feet, the head two and a half feet + would be in about the usual proportion. + +344. The Green Mountain range in Vermont, generally not more than twenty or + twenty-five miles distant. Champlain was probably deceived as to the + snow on their summits in July. What he saw was doubtless white + limestone, which might naturally enough be taken for snow in the + absence of any positive knowledge. The names of the summits visible + from the lake are the following, with their respective heights. The + Chin, 4,348 feet; The Nose, 4,044; Camel's Hump, 4,083; Jay's Peak, + 4,018; Killington Peak, 3,924. This region was at an early period + called _Irocosia_. + +345. This is not an inaccurate description of the beautiful as well as rich + and fertile valleys to be found among the hills of Vermont. + +346. On entering the lake, they saw the Adirondack Mountains, which would + appear very nearly in the south. The points visible from the lake were + Mt. Marcy, 5,467 feet high above tide-water; Dix's Peak, 5,200; Nipple + Top, 4,900; Whiteface, 4,900; Raven Hill, 2,100; Bald Peak, 2,065.-- + _Vide Palmer's Lake Champlain_, p. 12. + +347. The river here referred to is the Hudson. By passing from Lake + Champlain through the small stream that connects it with Lake George, + over this latter lake and a short carrying place, the upper waters of + the Hudson are reached. The coast of Norumbegue and that of Florida + were both indefinite regions, not well defined by geographers of that + day. These terms were supplied by Champlain, and not by his + informants. He could not of course tell precisely where this unknown + river reached the sea, but naturally inferred that it was on the + southern limit of Norumbegue, which extended from the Penobscot + towards Florida, which latter at that time was supposed to extend from + the Gulf of Mexico indefinitely to the north. + +348. This battle, or Skirmish, clearly took place at Ticonderoga, or + _Cheonderoga_, as the Indians called it, where a cape juts out into + the lake, as described by Champlain. This is the logical inference to + be drawn from the whole narrative. It is to be observed that the + purpose of the Indians, whom Champlain was accompanying, was to find + their enemies, the Iroquois, and give them battle. The journey, or + warpath, had been clearly marked out and described by the Indians to + Champlain, as may be seen in the text. It led them along the western + shore of the lake to the outlet of Lake George, over the fall in the + little stream connecting the two lakes, through Lake George, and + thence to the mountains beyond, where the Iroquois resided. They found + the Iroquois, however, on the lake; gave them battle on the little + cape alluded to; and after the victory and pursuit for some distance + into the forest, and the gathering up of the spoils, Champlain and his + allies commenced their journey homeward. But Champlain says he saw the + fall in the stream that connects the two lakes. Now this little stream + flows into Lake Champlain at Ticonderoga, and he would naturally have + seen the fall, if the battle took place there, while in pursuit of the + Iroquois into the forest, as described in the text. The fall was in + the line of the retreat of the Iroquois towards their home, and is + only a mile and three-quarters from the cape jutting out into the lake + at Ticonderoga. If the battle had occurred at any point north of + Ticonderoga, he could not have seen the fall, as they retreated + immediately after the battle: if it had taken place south of that + point, it would have been off the war-path which they had determined + to pursue. We must conclude, therefore, that the battle took place at + Ticonderoga, a little north of the ruins of the old Fort Carillon, + directly on the shore of the lake. If the reader will examine the plan + of the battle as given by Champlain's engraving, he will see that it + conforms with great exactness to the known topography of the place. + The Iroquois, who had their choice of positions are on the north, in + the direction of Willow Point, where they can most easily retreat, and + where Champlain and his allies can be more easily hemmed in near the + point of the cape. The Iroquois are on lower ground, and we know that + the surface there shelves to the north. The well-known sandy bottom of + the lake at this place would furnish the means of fastening the + canoes, by forcing poles into it, a little out from the shore during + the night, as they actually did. On Champlain's map of 1632, this + point is referred to as the location of the battle; and in his note on + the map, No. 65, he says this is the place where the Iroquois were + defeated by Champlain. All the facts of the narrative thus point to + Ticonderoga, and render it indisputable that this was the scene of the + first of the many recorded conflicts on this memorable lake. We should + not have entered into this discussion so fully, had not several + writers, not well informed, expressed views wholly inconsistent with + known facts. + +349. The Indian name of Lake Champlain is _Caniaderiguaronte_, the lake + that is the gate of the country.--_Vide Administration of the + Colonies_, by Thomas Pownall. 1768, p. 267. This name was very + significant, since the lake and valley of Champlain was the "gate," or + war-path, by which the hostile tribes of Iroquois approached their + enemies on the north of the St. Lawrence, and _vice-versa_. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +RETURN FROM THE BATTLE, AND WHAT TOOK PLACE ON THE WAY. + + +After going some eight leagues, towards evening they took one of the +prisoners, to whom they made a harangue, enumerating the cruelties which he +and his men had already practised towards them without any mercy, and that, +in like manner, he ought to make up his mind to receive as much. They +commanded him to sing, if he had courage, which he did; but it was a very +sad song. + +Meanwhile, our men kindled a fire; and, when it was well burning, they each +took a brand, and burned this poor creature gradually, so as to make him +suffer greater torment. Sometimes they stopped, and threw water on his +back. Then they tore out his nails, and applied fire to the extremities of +his fingers and private member. Afterwards, they flayed the top of his +head, and had a kind of gum poured all hot upon it; then they pierced his +arms near the wrists, and, drawing up the sinews with sticks, they tore +them out by force; but, seeing that they could not get them, they cut +them. This poor wretch uttered terrible cries, and it excited my pity to +see him treated in this manner, and yet showing such firmness that one +would have said, at times, that he suffered hardly any pain at all. They +urged me strongly to take some fire, and do as they did. I remonstrated +with them, saying that we practised no such cruelties, but killed them at +once; and that, if they wished me to fire a musket-shot at him, I should be +willing to do so. They refused, saying that he would not in that case +suffer any pain. I went away from them, pained to see such cruelties as +they practised upon his body. When they saw that I was displeased, they +called me, and told me to fire a musket-shot at him. This I did without his +feeling it, and thus put an end, by a single shot, to all the torments he +would have suffered, rather than see him tyrannized over. After his death, +they were not yet satisfied, but opened him, and threw his entrails into +the lake. Then they cut off his head, arms, and legs, which they scattered +in different directions; keeping the scalp which they had flayed off, as +they had done in the case of all the rest whom they had killed in the +contest. They were guilty also of another monstrosity in taking his heart, +cutting it into several pieces, and giving it to a brother of his to eat, +as also to others of his companions, who were prisoners: they took it into +their mouths, but would not swallow it. Some Algonquin savages, who were +guarding them, made some of them spit it out, when they threw it into the +water. This is the manner in which these people behave towards those whom +they capture in war, for whom it would be better to die fighting, or to +kill themselves on the spur of the moment, as many do, rather than fall +into the hands of their enemies. After this execution, we set out on our +return with the rest of the prisoners, who kept singing as they went along, +with no better hopes for the future than he had had who was so wretchedly +treated. + +Having arrived at the falls of the Iroquois, the Algonquins returned to +their own country; so also the Ochateguins, [350] with a part of the +prisoners: well satisfied with the results of the war, and that I had +accompanied them so readily. We separated accordingly with loud +protestations of mutual friendship; and they asked me whether I would not +like to go into their country, to assist them with continued fraternal +relations; and I promised that I would do so. + +I returned with the Montagnais. After informing myself from the prisoners +in regard to their country, and of its probable extent, we packed up the +baggage for the return, which was accomplished with such despatch that we +went every day in their canoes twenty-five or thirty leagues, which was +their usual rate of travelling. When we arrived at the mouth of the river +Iroquois, some of the savages dreamed that their enemies were pursuing +them. This dream led them to move their camp forthwith, although the night +was very inclement on account of the wind and rain; and they went and +passed the remainder of the night, from fear of their enemies, amid high +reeds on Lake St. Peter. Two days after, we arrived at our settlement, +where I gave them some bread and peas; also some beads, which they asked me +for, in order to ornament the heads of their enemies, for the purpose of +merry-making upon their return. The next day, I went with them in their +canoes as far as Tadoussac, in order to witness their ceremonies. On +approaching the shore, they each took a stick, to the end of which they +hung the heads of their enemies, who had been killed, together with some +beads, all of them singing. When they were through with this, the women +undressed themselves, so as to be in a state of entire nudity, when they +jumped into the water, and swam to the prows, of the canoes to take the +heads of their enemies, which were on the ends of long poles before their +boats: then they hung them about their necks, as if it had been some costly +chain, singing and dancing meanwhile. Some days after, they presented me +with one of these heads, as if it were something very precious; and also +with a pair of arms taken from their enemies, to keep and show to the +king. This, for the sake of gratifying them, I promised to do. + +After some days, I went to Quebec, whither some Algonquin savages came, +expressing their regret at not being present at the defeat of their +enemies, and presenting me with some furs, in consideration of my having +gone there and assisted their friends. + +Some days after they had set out for their country, distant about a hundred +and twenty leagues from our settlement, I went to Tadoussac to see whether +Pont Gravé had returned from Gaspé, whither he had gone. He did not arrive +until the next day, when he told me that he had decided to return to +France. We concluded to leave an upright man, Captain Pierre Chavin of +Dieppe, to command at Quebec, until Sieur de Monts should arrange matters +there. + + +ENDNOTES: + +350. The Indian allies on this expedition were the Algonquins + (_Algoumequins_), the Hurons (_Ochatequins_), and the Montagnais + (_Montagnets_). The two former, on their way to Quebec, had met + Champlain near the river St. Anne, and joined him and the Montagnais, + who belonged in the neighborhood of Tadoussac, or farther east.--_Vide + antea_, p. 202. They now, at the falls near the Basin of Chambly, + departed to their homes, perhaps on the Ottawa River and the shores of + Lake Huron. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +RETURN TO FRANCE, AND WHAT OCCURRED UP TO THE TIME OP RE-EMBARKATION. + + +After forming this resolution, we went to Quebec to establish him in +authority, and leave him every thing requisite and necessary for the +settlement, together with fifteen men. Every thing being arranged, we set +out on the first day of September [351] for Tadoussac, in order to fit out +our vessel for returning to France. + +We set out accordingly from the latter place on the 5th of the month, and +on the 8th anchored at Isle Percée. On Thursday the 10th, we set out from +there, and on the 18th, the Tuesday following, we arrived at the Grand +Bank. On the 2d of October, we got soundings. On the 8th, we anchored at +Conquet [352] in Lower Brittany. On Saturday the 10th, we set out from +there, arriving at Honfleur on the 13th. + +After disembarking, I did not wait long before taking post to go to Sieur +de Monts, who was then at Fontainebleau, where His Majesty was. Here I +reported to him in detail all that had transpired in regard to the winter +quarters and our new explorations, and my hopes for the future in view of +the promises of the savages called Ochateguins, who are good Iroquois. +[353] The other Iroquois, their enemies, dwell more to the south. The +language of the former does not differ much from that of the people +recently discovered and hitherto unknown to us, which they understand when +spoken. + +I at once waited upon His Majesty, and gave him an account of my voyage, +which afforded him pleasure and satisfaction. I had a girdle made of +porcupine quills, very well worked, after the manner of the country where +it was made, and which His Majesty thought very pretty. I had also two +little birds, of the size of blackbirds and of a carnation color; [354] +also, the head of a fish caught in the great lake of the Iroquois, having a +very long snout and two or three rows of very sharp teeth. A representation +of this fish may be found on the great lake, on my geographical map. [355] + +After I had concluded my interview with His Majesty, Sieur de Monts +determined to go to Rouen to meet his associates, the Sieurs Collier and Le +Gendre, merchants of Rouen, to consider what should be done the coming +year. They resolved to continue the settlement, and finish the explorations +up the great river St. Lawrence, in accordance with the promises of the +Ochateguins, made on condition that we should assist them in their wars, as +I had given them to understand. + +Pont Gravé was appointed to go to Tadoussac, not only for traffic, but to +engage in any thing else that might realize means for defraying the +expenses. + +Sieur Lucas Le Gendre, of Rouen, one of the partners, was ordered to see to +the purchase of merchandise and supplies, the repair of the vessels, +obtaining crews, and other things necessary for the voyage. + +After these matters were arranged, Sieur de Monts returned to Paris, I +accompanying him, where I stayed until the end of February. During this +time, Sieur de Monts endeavored to obtain a new commission for trading in +the newly discovered regions, and where no one had traded before. This he +was unable to accomplish, although his requests and proposals were just and +reasonable. + +But, finding that there was no hope of obtaining this commission, he did +not cease to prosecute his plan, from his desire that every thing might +turn out to the profit and honor of France. + +During this time, Sieur de Monts did not express to me his pleasure in +regard to me personally, until I told him it had been reported to me that +he did not wish to have me winter in Canada, which, however, was not true, +for he referred the whole matter to my pleasure. + +I provided myself with whatever was desirable and necessary for spending +the winter at our settlement in Quebec. For this purpose I set out from +Paris the last day of February following, [356] and proceeded to Honfleur, +where the embarkation was to be made. I went by way of Rouen, where I +stayed two days. Thence I went to Honfleur, where I found Pont Gravé and Le +Gendre, who told me they had embarked what was necessary for the +settlement. I was very glad to find that we were ready to set sail, but +uncertain whether the supplies were good and adequate for our sojourn and +for spending the winter. + +ENDNOTES: + +351. September, 1609. + +352. A small seaport town in the department of Finisterre, twelve miles + west of Brest. + +353. The Ochateguins, called by the French Hurons, were a branch of the + Iroquois. Their real name was Yendots. They were at this time allied + with the Algonquins, in a deadly war with their Iroquois cousins, the + Five Nations.--_Vide Gallatins Synopsis_, Transactions of Am. Antiq. + Society, Cambridge, 1836, Vol. II. p. 69, _et passim_. + +354. The Scarlet tanager, _Pyranga rubra_, of a scarlet color, with black + wings and tail. It ranges from Texas to Lake Huron. + +355. _Vide antea_, p. 216; and map. 1612. + +356. Anno Domini 1610. + + + +SECOND VOYAGE +OF +SIEUR. DE CHAMPLAIN +TO NEW FRANCE, IN THE YEAR 1610. + + + +CHAPTER I. + +DEPARTURE FROM FRANCE TO RETURN TO NEW FRANCE, AND OCCURRENCES UNTIL OUR +ARRIVAL AT THE SETTLEMENT. + + +The weather having become favorable, I embarked at Honfleur with a number +of artisans on the 7th of the month of March. [357] But, encountering bad +weather in the Channel, we were obliged to put in on the English coast at a +place called Porlan, [358] in the roadstead of which we stayed some days, +when we weighed anchor for the Isle d'Huy, [359] near the English coast, +since we found the roadstead of Porlan very bad. When near this island, so +dense a fog arose, that we were obliged to put in at the Hougue. [360] + +Ever since the departure from Honfleur, I had been afflicted with a very +severe illness, which took away my hopes of being able to make the voyage; +so that I embarked in a boat to return to Havre in France, to be treated +there, being very ill on board the vessel. My expectation was, on +recovering my health, to embark again in another vessel, which had not yet +left Honfleur, in which Des Marais, son-in-law of Pont Gravé, was to +embark; but I had myself carried, still very ill, to Honfleur, where the +vessel on which I had set out put in on the 15th of March, for some +ballast, which it needed in order to be properly trimmed. Here it remained +until the 8th of April. During this time, I recovered in a great degree; +and, though still feeble and weak, I nevertheless embarked again. + +We set out anew on the 18th of April, arriving at the Grand Bank on the +19th, and fighting the Islands of St. Pierre on the 22nd. [361] When off +Menthane, we met a vessel from St. Malo, on which was a young man, who, +while drinking to the health of Pont Gravé, lost control of himself and was +thrown into the Sea by the motion of the vessel and drowned, it being +impossible to render him assistance on account of the violence of the wind. + +On the 26th of the month, we arrived at Tadoussac, where there were vessels +which had arrived on the 18th, a thing which had not been seen for more +than sixty years, as the old mariners said who sail regularly to this +country. [362] This was owing to the mild winter and the small amount of +ice, which did not prevent the entrance of these vessels. We learned from a +young nobleman, named Sieur du Parc, who had spent the winter at our +settlement, that all his companions were in good health, only a few having +been ill, and they but slightly. He also informed us that there had been +scarcely any winter, and that they had usually had fresh meat the entire +season, and that their hardest task had been to keep up good cheer. + +This winter shows how those undertaking in future such enterprises ought to +proceed, it being very difficult to make a new settlement without labor; +and without encountering adverse fortune the first year, as has been the +case in all our first settlements. But, in fact, by avoiding salt food and +using fresh meat, the health is as good here as in France. + +The savages had been waiting from day to day for us to go to the war with +them. When they learned that Pont Gravé and I had arrived together, they +rejoiced greatly, and came to speak with us. + +I went on shore to assure them that we would go with them, in conformity +with the promises they had made me, namely, that upon our return from the +war they would show me the Trois Rivières, and take me to a sea so large +that the end of it cannot be seen, whence we should return by way of the +Saguenay to Tadoussac. I asked them if they still had this intention, to +which they replied that they had, but that it could not be carried out +before the next year, which pleased me. But I had promised the Algonquins +and Ochateguins that I would assist them also in their wars, they having +promised to show me their country, the great lake, some copper mines, and +other things, which they had indicated to me. I accordingly had two strings +to my bow, so that, in case one should break, the other might hold. + +On the 28th of the month, I set out from Tadoussac for Quebec, where I +found Captain Pierre, [363] who commanded there, and all his companions in +good health. There was also a savage captain with them, named Batiscan, +with some of his companions, who were awaiting us, and who were greatly +pleased at my arrival, singing and dancing the entire evening. I provided a +banquet for them, which gratified them very much. They had a good meal, for +which they were very thankful, and invited me with seven others to an +entertainment of theirs, not a small mark of respect with them. We each +one carried a porringer, according to custom, and brought it home full of +meat, which we gave to whomsoever we pleased. + +Some days after I had set out from Tadoussac, the Montagnais arrived at +Quebec, to the number of sixty able-bodied men, en route for the war. They +tarried here some days, enjoying themselves, and not omitting to ply me +frequently with questions, to assure themselves that I would not fail in my +promises to them. I assured them, and again made promises to them, asking +them if they had found me breaking my word in the past. They were greatly +pleased when I renewed my promises to them. + +They said to me: "Here are numerous Basques and Mistigoches" (this is the +name they give to the Normans and people of St. Malo), "who say they will +go to the war with us. What do you think of it? Do they speak the truth?" +I answered no, and that I knew very well what they really meant; that they +said this only to get possession of their commodities. They replied to me: +"You have spoken the truth. They are women, and want to make war only upon +our beavers." They went on talking still farther in a facetious mood, and +in regard to the manner and order of going to the war. + +They determined to set out, and await me at the Trois Rivières, thirty +leagues above Quebec, where I had promised to join them, together with four +barques loaded with merchandise, in order to traffic in peltries, among +others with the Ochateguins, who were to await me at the mouth of the river +of the Iroquois, as they had promised the year before, and to bring there +as many as four hundred men to go to the war. + + +ENDNOTES: + +357. In the title above, Champlain calls this his SECOND VOYAGE, by which + he means doubtless to say that this is the second voyage which he had + undertaken as lieutenant. The first and second voyages, of 1603 and of + 1604, were not made under his direction. + +358. Portland in Dorsetshire, England. + +359. _Isle d'Huy_. This plainly refers to the Isle of Wight. On Ortelius's + carte of 1603. it is spelled Vigt: and the orthography, obtained + probably through the ear and not the eye, might easily have been + mistaken by Champlain. + +360. _La Hougue_. There are two small islands laid down on the carte of + Ortelius. 1603, under the name _Les Hougueaux_, and a hamlet nearby + called Hougo, which is that, doubtless, to which Chaimplain here + refers. + +361. Comparing this statement with the context, it will be clear that the + passage should read the 8th, and not the 18th of April. The "Islands + of St. Pierre," _Isles S. Pierre_, includes the Island of St. Peter + and the cluster surrounding it. + +362. M. Ferland infers from this statement that the Basques, Normans, and + Bretons had been accustomed for the last sixty years, from the last + voyage of Roberval in 1549, to extend their fishing and fur-trading + voyages as far as Tadoussac.--_Vide Cours d'Hist. du Canada_, as cited + by Laverdière. + +363. Captain Pierre Chavin, of Dieppe. _Vide antea_, p. 227. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +DEPARTURE FROM QUEBEC TO ASSIST OUR ALLIED SAVAGES IN THEIR WAR AGAINST THE +IROQUOIS, THEIR ENEMIES; AND ALL THAT TRANSPIRED UNTIL OUR RETURN TO THE +SETTLEMENT. + + +I set out from Quebec on the 14th of June, to meet the Montagnais, +Algonquins, and Ochateguins, who were to be at the mouth of the river of +the Iroquois. When I was eight leagues from Quebec, I met a canoe, +containing two savages, one an Algonquin, and the other a Montagnais, who +entreated me to advance as rapidly as possible, saying that the Algonquins +and Ochateguins would in two days be at the rendezvous, to the number of +two hundred, with two hundred others to come a little later, together with +Yroquet, one of their chiefs. They asked me if I was satisfied with the +coming of these savages. I told them I could not be displeased at it, since +they had kept their word. They came on board my barque, where I gave them a +good entertainment. Shortly after conferring with them about many matters +concerning their wars, the Algonquin savage, one of their chiefs, drew from +a sack a piece of copper a foot long, which he gave me. This was very +handsome and quite pure. He gave me to understand that there were large +quantities where he had taken this, which was on the bank of a river, near +a great lake. He said that they gathered it in lumps, and, having melted +it, spread it in sheets, smoothing it with stones. I was very glad of this +present, although of small value. [364] + +Arriving at Trois Rivières, I found all the Montagnais awaiting me, and the +four barques as I stated above, which had gone to trade with them. + +The savages were delighted to see me, and I went on shore to speak with +them. They entreated me, together with my companions, to embark on their +canoes and no others, when we went to the war, saying that they were our +old friends. This I promised them, telling them that I desired to set out +at once, since the wind was favorable; and that my barque was not so swift +as their canoes, for which reason I desired to go on in advance. They +earnestly entreated me to wait until the morning of the next day, when we +would all go together, adding that they would not go faster than I should. +Finally, to satisfy them, I promised to do this, at which they were greatly +pleased. + +On the following day, we all set out together, and continued our route +until the morning of the next day, the 19th of the month, when we arrived +at an island [365] off the river of the Iroquois, and waited for the +Algonquins, who were to be there the same day. While the Montagnais were +felling trees to clear a place for dancing, and for arranging themselves +for the arrival of the Algonquins, an Algonquin canoe was suddenly seen +coming in haste, to bring word that the Algonquins had fallen in with a +hundred Iroquois, who were strongly barricaded, and that it would be +difficult to conquer them, unless they should come speedily, together with +the Matigoches, as they call us. + +The alarm at once sounded among them, and each one got into his canoe with +his arms. They were quickly in readiness, but with confusion; for they were +so precipitous that, instead of making haste, they hindered one another. +They came to our barque and the others, begging me, together with my +companions, to go with them in their canoes, and they were so urgent that I +embarked with four others. I requested our pilot, La Routte, to stay in the +barque, and send me some four or five more of my companions, if the other +barques would send some shallops with men to aid us; for none of the +barques were inclined to go with the savages, except Captain Thibaut, who, +having a barque there, went with me. The savages cried out to those who +remained, saying that they were woman-hearted, and that all they could do +was to make war upon their peltry. + +Meanwhile, after going some half a league, all the savages crossing the +river landed, and, leaving their canoes, took their bucklers, bows, arrows, +clubs, and swords, which they attach to the end of large sticks, and +proceeded to make their way in the woods, so fast that we soon lost sight +of them, they leaving us, five in number, without guides. This displeased +us; but, keeping their tracks constantly in sight, we followed them, +although we were often deceived. We went through dense woods, and over +swamps and marshes, with the water always up to our knees, greatly +encumbered by a pike-man's corselet, with which each one was armed. We were +also tormented in a grievous and unheard-of manner by quantities of +mosquitoes, which were so thick that they scarcely permitted us to draw +breath. After going about half a league under these circumstances, and no +longer knowing where we were, we perceived two savages passing through the +woods, to whom we called and told them to stay with us, and guide us to the +whereabouts of the Iroquois, otherwise we could not go there, and should +get lost in the woods. They stayed to guide us. After proceeding a short +distance, we saw a savage coming in haste to us, to induce us to advance as +rapidly as possible, giving me to understand that the Algonquins and +Montagnais had tried to force the barricade of the Iroquois but had been +repulsed, that some of the best men of the Montagnais had been killed in +the attempt, and several wounded, and that they had retired to wait for us, +in whom was their only hope. We had not gone an eighth of a league with +this savage, who was an Algonquin captain, before we heard the yells and +cries on both sides, as they jeered at each other, and were skirmishing +slightly while awaiting us. As soon as the savages perceived us, they began +to shout, so that one could not have heard it thunder. I gave orders to my +companions to follow me steadily, and not to leave me on any account. I +approached the barricade of the enemy, in order to reconnoitre it. It was +constructed of large trees placed one upon an other, and of a circular +shape, the usual form of their fortifications. All the Montagnais and +Algonquins approached likewise the barricade. Then we commenced firing +numerous musket-shots through the brush-wood, since we could not see them, +as they could us. I was wounded while firing my first shot at the side of +their barricade by an arrow, which pierced the end of my ear and entered my +neck. I seized the arrow, and tore it from my neck. The end of it was armed +with a very sharp stone. One of my companions also was wounded at the same +time in the arm by an arrow, which I tore out for him. Yet my wound did +not prevent me from doing my duty: our savages also, on their part, as well +as the enemy, did their duty, so that you could see the arrows fly on all +sides as thick as hail. The Iroquois were astonished at the noise of our +muskets, and especially that the balls penetrated better than their +arrows. They were so frightened at the effect produced that, seeing +several, of their companions fall wounded and dead, they threw themselves +on the ground whenever they heard a discharge, supposing that the shots +were sure. We scarcely ever missed firing two or three balls at one shot, +resting our muskets most of the time on the side of their barricade. But, +seeing that our ammunition began to fail, I said to all the savages that it +was necessary to break down their barricades and capture them by storm; and +that, in order to accomplish this, they must take their shields, cover +themselves with them, and thus approach so near as to be able to fasten +stout ropes to the posts that supported the barricades, and pull them down +by main strength, in that way making an opening large enough to permit them +to enter the fort. I told them that we would meanwhile, by our +musketry-fire, keep off the enemy, as they endeavored to prevent them from +accomplishing this; also that a number of them should get behind some large +trees, which were near the barricade, in order to throw them down upon the +enemy, and that others should protect these with their shields, in order to +keep the enemy from injuring them. All this they did very promptly. And, as +they were about finishing the work, the barques, distant a league and a +half, hearing the reports of our muskets, knew that we were engaged in +conflict; and a young man from St. Malo, full of courage, Des Prairies by +name, who like the rest had come with his barque to engage in peltry +traffic, said to his companions that it was a great shame to let me fight +in this way with the savages without coming to my assistance; that for his +part he had too high a sense of honor to permit him to do so, and that he +did not wish to expose himself to this reproach. Accordingly, he determined +to come to me in a shallop with some of his companions, together with some +of mine whom he took with him. Immediately upon his arrival, he went +towards the fort of the Iroquois, situated on the bank of the river. Here +he landed, and came to find me. Upon seeing him, I ordered our savages who +were breaking down the fortress to stop, so that the new-comers might have +their share of the sport. I requested Sieur des Prairies and his companions +to fire some salvos of musketry, before our savages should carry by storm +the enemy, as they had decided to do. This they did, each one firing +several shots, in which all did their duty well. After they had fired +enough, I addressed myself to our savages, urging them to finish the +work. Straightway, they approached the barricade, as they had previously +done, while we on the flank were to fire at those who should endeavor to +keep them from breaking it down. They behaved so well and bravely that, +with the help of our muskets, they made an opening, which, however, was +difficult to go through, as there was still left a portion as high as a +man, there being also branches of trees there which had been beaten down, +forming a serious obstacle. But, when I saw that the entrance was quite +practicable, I gave orders not to fire any more, which they obeyed. At the +same instant, some twenty or thirty, both of savages and of our own men, +entered, sword in hand, without finding much resistance. Immediately, all +who were unharmed took to flight. But they did not proceed far; for they +were brought down by those around the barricade, and those who escaped were +drowned in the river. We captured some fifteen prisoners, the rest being +killed by musket-shots, arrows, and the sword. When the fight was over, +there came another shallop, containing some of my companions. This although +behind time, was yet in season for the booty, which, however, was not of +much account. There were only robes of beaver-skin, and dead bodies, +covered with blood, which the savages would not take the trouble to +plunder, laughing at those in the last shallop, who did so; for the others +did not engage in such low business. This, then, is the victory obtained by +God's grace, for gaining which they gave us much praise. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +FORT DES IROQUOIS. + +_A_. The fort of the Iroquois. +_B_. The Iroquois throwing themselves into the river to escape the pursuit + of the Montagnais and Algonquins who followed for the purpose of + killing them. +_D_. Sieur de Champlain and five of his men. +_E_. The savages friendly to us. +_F_. Sieur des Prairies of St. Malo with his comrades. +_G_. Shallop of Sieur des Prairies. +_H_. Great trees cut down for the purpose of destroying the fort of the + Iroquois. + + * * * * * + +The savages scalped the dead, and took the heads as a trophy of victory, +according to their custom. They returned with fifty wounded Montagnais and +Algonquins and three dead, singing and leading their prisoners with them. +They attached to sticks in the prows of their canoes the heads and a dead +body cut into quarters, to eat in revenge, as they said. In this way, they +went to our barques off the River of the Iroquois. + +My companions and I embarked in a shallop, where I had my wound dressed by +the surgeon, De Boyer, of Rouen, who likewise had come here for the purpose +of traffic. The savages spent all this day in dancing and singing. + +The next day, Sieur de Pont Gravé arrived with another shallop, loaded with +merchandise. Moreover, there was also a barque containing Captain Pierre, +which he had left behind, it being able to come only with difficulty, as it +was rather heavy and a poor sailer. + +The same day there was some trading in peltry, but the other barques +carried off the better part of the booty. It was doing them a great favor +to search out a strange people for them, that they might afterwards carry +off the profit without any risk or danger. + +That day, I asked the savages for an Iroquois prisoner which they had, and +they gave him to me. What I did for him was not a little; for I saved him +from many tortures which he must have suffered in company with his +fellow-prisoners; whole nails they tore out, also cutting off their +fingers, and burning them in several places. They put to death on the same +day two or three, and, in order to increase their torture, treated them in +the following manner. + +They took the prisoners to the border of the water, and fastened them +perfectly upright to a stake. Then each came with a torch of birch bark, +and burned them, now in this place, now in that. The poor wretches, feeling +the fire, raised so loud a cry that it was something frightful to hear; and +frightful indeed are the cruelties which these barbarians practise towards +each other. After making them suffer greatly in this manner and burning +them with the above-mentioned bark, taking some water, they threw it on +their bodies to increase their suffering. Then they applied the fire anew, +so that the skin fell from their bodies, they continuing to utter loud +cries and exclamations, and dancing until the poor wretches fell dead on +the spot. + +As soon as a body fell to the ground dead, they struck it violent blows +with sticks, when they cut off the arms, legs, and other parts; and he was +not regarded by them as manly, who did not cut off a piece of the flesh, +and give it to the dogs. Such are the courtesies prisoners receive. But +still they endure all the tortures inflicted upon them with such constancy +that the spectator is astonished. + +As to the other prisoners, which remained in possession of the Algonquins +and Montagnais, it was left to their wives and daughters to put them to +death with their own hands; and, in such a matter, they do not show +themselves less inhuman than the men, but even surpass them by far in +cruelty; for they devise by their cunning more cruel punishments, in which +they take pleasure, putting an end to their lives by the most extreme +pains. + +The next day there arrived the Captain Yroquet, also another Ochateguin, +with some eighty men, who regretted greatly not having been present at the +defeat. Among all these tribes there were present nearly two hundred men, +who had never before seen Christians, for whom they conceived a great +admiration. + +We were some three days together on an island off the river of the +Iroquois, when each tribe returned to its own country. + +I had a young lad, who had already spent two winters at Quebec, and who was +desirous of going with the Algonquins to learn their language. Pont Gravé +and I concluded that, if he entertained this desire, it would be better to +send him to this place than elsewhere, that he might ascertain the nature +of their country, see the great lake, observe the rivers and tribes there, +and also explore the mines and objects of special interest in the +localities occupied by these tribes, in order that he might inform us upon +his return, of the facts of the case. We asked him if it was his desire to +go, for I did not wish to force him. But he answered the question at once +by consenting to the journey with great pleasure. + +Going to Captain Yroquet, who was strongly attached to me, I asked him if +he would like to take this young boy to his country to spend the winter +with him, and bring him back in the spring. He promised to do so, and treat +him as his own son, saying that he was greatly pleased with the idea. He +communicated the plan to all the Algonquins, who were not greatly pleased +with it, from fear that some accident might happen to the boy, which would +cause us to make war upon them. This hesitation cooled the desire of +Yroquet, who came and told me that all his companions failed to find the +plan a good one. Meanwhile, all the barques had left, excepting that of +Pont Gravé, who, having some pressing business on hand, as he told me, went +away too. But I stayed with my barque to see how the matter of the journey +of this boy, which I was desirous should take place, would result. I +accordingly went on shore, and asked to speak with the captains, who came +to me, and we sat down for a conference, together with many other savages +of age and distinction in their troops. Then I asked them why Captain +Yroquet, whom I regarded as my friend, had refused to take my boy with +him. I said that it was not acting like a brother or friend to refuse me +what he had promised, and what could result in nothing but good to them; +taking the boy would be a means of increasing still more our friendship +with them and forming one with their neighbors; that their scruples at +doing so only gave me an unfavorable opinion of them; and that if they +would not take the boy, as Captain Yroquet had promised, I would never have +any friendship with them, for they were not children to break their +promises in this manner. They then told me that they were satisfied with +the arrangement, only they feared that, from change of diet to something +worse than he had been accustomed to, some harm might happen to the boy, +which would provoke my displeasure. This they said was the only cause of +their refusal. + +I replied that the boy would be able to adapt himself without difficulty to +their manner of living and usual food, and that, if through sickness or the +fortunes of war any harm should befall him, this would not interrupt my +friendly feelings towards them, and that we were all exposed to accidents, +which we must submit to with patience. But I said that if they treated him +badly, and if any misfortune happened to him through their fault, I should +in truth be displeased, which, however, I did not expect from them, but +quite the contrary. + +They said to me: "Since then, this is your desire, we will take him, and +treat him like ourselves. But you shall also take a young man in his place, +to go to France. We shall be greatly pleased to hear him report the fine +things he shall have seen." I accepted with pleasure the proposition, and +took the young man. He belonged to the tribe of the Ochateguins, and was +also glad to go with me. This presented an additional motive for treating +my boy still better than they might otherwise have done. I fitted him out +with what he needed, and we made a mutual promise to meet at the end of +June. + +We parted with many promises of friendship. Then they went away towards the +great fall of the River of Canada, while I returned to Quebec. On my way, I +met Pont Gravé on Lake St. Peter, who was waiting for me with a large +patache, which he had fallen in with on this lake, and which had not been +expeditious enough to reach the place where the savages were, on account of +its poor sailing qualities. + +We all returned together to Quebec, when Pont Gravé went to Tadoussac, to +arrange some matters pertaining to our quarters there. But I stayed at +Quebec to see to the reconstruction of some palisades about our abode, +until Pont Gravé should return, when we could confer together as to what +was to be done. + +On the 4th of June, Des Marais arrived at Quebec, greatly to our joy; for +we were afraid that some accident had happened to him at sea. + +Some days after, an Iroquois prisoner, whom I had kept guarded, got away in +consequence of my giving him too much liberty, and made his escape, urged +to do so by fear, notwithstanding the assurances given him by a woman of +his tribe we had at our settlement. + +A few days after, Pont Gravé wrote me that he was thinking of passing the +winter at the settlement, being moved to do so by many considerations. I +replied that, if he expected to fare better than I had done in the past, he +would do well. + +He accordingly hastened to provide himself with the supplies necessary for +the settlement. + +After I had finished the palisade about our habitation, and put every thing +in order, Captain Pierre returned in a barque in which he had gone to +Tadoussac to see his friends. I also went there to ascertain what would +result from the second trading, and to attend to some other special +business which I had there. Upon my arrival, I found there Pont Gravé, who +stated to me in detail his plans, and the reasons inducing him to spend the +winter. I told him frankly what I thought of the matter; namely, that I +believed he would not derive much profit from it, according to the +appearances that were plainly to be seen. + +He determined accordingly to change his plan, and despatched a barque with +orders for Captain Pierre to return from Quebec on account of some business +he had with him; with the intelligence also that some vessels, which had +arrived from Brouage, brought the news that Monsieur de Saint Luc had come +by post from Paris, expelled those of the religion from Brouage, +re-enforced the garrison with soldiers, and then returned to Court; [366] +that the king had been killed, and two or three days after him the Duke of +Sully, together with two other lords, whose names they did not know. [367] + +All these tidings gave great sorrow to the true French in these quarters. +As for myself, it was hard for me to believe it, on account of the +different reports about the matter, and which had not much appearance of +truth. Still, I was greatly troubled at hearing such mournful news. + +Now, after having stayed three or four days longer at Tadoussac, I saw the +loss which many merchants must suffer, who had taken on board a large +quantity of merchandise, and fitted out a great number of vessels, in +expectation of doing a good business in the fur-trade, which was so poor on +account of the great number of vessels, that many will for a long time +remember the loss which they suffered this year. + +Sieur de Pont Gravé and I embarked, each of us in a barque, leaving Captain +Pierre on the vessel. We took Du Parc to Quebec, where we finished what +remained to be done at the settlement. After every thing was in good +condition, we resolved that Du Parc, who had wintered there with Captain +Pierre, should remain again, and that Captain Pierre should return to +France with us, on account of some business that called him there. + +We accordingly left Du Parc in command there, with sixteen men, all of whom +we enjoined to live soberly, and in the fear of God, and in strict +observance of the obedience due to the authority of Du Parc, who was left +as their chief and commander, just as if one of us had remained. This they +all promised to do, and to live in peace with each other. + +As to the gardens, we left them all well supplied with kitchen vegetables +of all sorts, together with fine Indian corn, wheat, rye, and barley, which +had been already planted. There were also vines which I had set out when I +spent the winter there, but these they made no attempt to preserve; for, +upon my return, I found them all in ruins, and I was greatly displeased +that they had given so little attention to the preservation of so fine and +good a plot, from which I had anticipated a favorable result. + +After seeing that every thing was in good order, we set out from Quebec on +the 8th of August for Tadoussac, in order to prepare our vessel, which was +speedily done. + + +ENDNOTES: + +364. This testimony of the Algonquin chief is interesting, and historically + important. We know of no earlier reference to the art of melting and + malleating copper in any of the reports of the navigators to our + northern coast. That the natives possessed this art is placed beyond + question by this passage, as well as by the recent discovery of copper + implements in Wisconsin, bearing the marks of mechanical fusion and + malleation. The specimens of copper in the possession of the natives + on the coast of New England, as referred to by Brereton and Archer, + can well be accounted for without supposing them to be of native + manufacture, though they may have been so. The Basques, Bretons, + English, and Portuguese had been annually on our northern coasts for + fishing and fur-trading for more than a century, and had distributed a + vast quantity of articles for savage ornament and use; and it would, + therefore, be difficult to prove that the copper chains and collars + and other trinkets mentioned by Brereton and Archer were not derived + from this source. But the testimony of the early navigators in the + less frequented region of the St. Lawrence is not open to this + interpretation. When Cartier advanced up the Gulf of Lawrence in 1535, + the savages pointed out the region of the Saguenay, which they + informed him was inhabited, and that from thence came the red copper + which they called _caignetdaze_. + + "Et par les sauuaiges que auions, nous a essé dict que cestoit le + commencement du Saguenay & terre habitable. Et que de la ve noit le + cuyure rouge qu'ilz appellent caignetdaze."--_Brief Récit_, par + Jacques Cartier, 1545. D'Avezac ed., p. 9. _Vide idem_, p. 34. + + When Cartier was at Isle Coudres, say fifty miles below Quebec, on his + return, the Indians from the Saguenay came on board his ship, and made + certain presents to their chief, Donnacona, whom Cartier had captured, + and was taking home with him to France. Among these gifts, they gave + him a great knife of red copper, which came from the Saguenay. The + words of Cartier are as follows:-- + + "Donnerent audict Donnaconan trois pacquetz de peaulx de byeures & + loups marins avec vng grand cousteau de cuyure rouge, qui vient du + Saguenay & autres choses."--_Idem_, p. 44. + + This voyage of Cartier, made in 1535, was the earliest visit by any + navigator on record to this region. It was eighty years before the + Recollects or any other missionaries had approached the Gulf of + St. Lawrence. There was, therefore, no intercourse previous to this + that would be likely to furnish the natives with European utensils of + any kind, particularly knives of _red copper_. It is impossible to + suppose that this knife, seen by Cartier, and declared by the natives + to have come from the Saguenay, a term then covering an indefinite + region stretching we know not how far to the north and west, could be + otherwise than of Indian manufacture. In the text, Champlain + distinctly states on the testimony of an Algonquin chief that it was + the custom of the Indians to melt copper for the purpose of forming it + into sheets, and it is obvious that it would require scarcely greater + ingenuity to fabricate moulds in which to cast the various implements + which they needed in their simple arts. Some of these implements, with + indubitable marks of having been cast in moulds, have been recently + discovered, with a multitude of others, which may or may not have + passed through the same process. The testimony of Champlain in the + text, and the examples of moulded copper found in the lake region, + render the evidence, in our judgment, entirely conclusive that the art + of working copper both by fusion and malleation existed among the + Indians of America at the time of its first occupation by the French. + + During the period of five years, beginning in 1871, an enthusiastic + antiquary, Mr. F. S. Perkins, of Wisconsin, collected, within the + borders of his own State, a hundred and forty-two copper implements, + of a great variety of forms, and designed for numerous uses, as axes, + hatchets, spear-heads, arrowheads, knives, gouges, chisels, adzes, + augers, gads, drills, and other articles of anomalous forms. These are + now deposited in the archives of the Historical Society of + Wisconsin. Other collections are gradually forming. The process is of + necessity slow, as they are not often found in groups, but singly, + here and there, as they are turned up by the plough or spade or other + implements of husbandry. The statement of Champlain in the text, and + the testimony of Carrier three-quarters of a century earlier, to which + we have referred, give a new historical significance to these recent + discoveries, and both together throw a fresh light upon the + prehistoric period. + +365. This was the Island St. Ignace, which lies opposite the mouth of the + river Iroquois or Richelieu. Champlain's description is not + sufficiently definite to enable us to identify the exact location of + this conflict with the savages. It is, however, evident, from several + intimations found in the text, that it was about a league from the + mouth of the Richelieu, and was probably on the bank of that river. + +366. For some account of Saint Luc, see Memoir, Vol. I. By those of the + religion, _ceux de la Religion_, are meant the Huguenots, or + Protestants. + +367. The assassination of Henry IV. occurred on the 14th of May, 1610; but + the rumor of the death of the Duke of Sully was erroneous. Maximelien + de Béthune, the Duke of Sully, died on the 22d of December, 1641, at + the age of eighty-two years. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +RETURN TO FRANCE.--MEETING A WHALE;--THE MODE OF CAPTURING THEM. + + +On the 13th of the month, we set out from Tadoussac, arriving at Île Percée +the next day, where we found a large number of vessels engaged in the +fishery, dry and green. + +On the 18th of the month, we departed from Île Percée, passing in latitude +42°, without sighting the Grand Bank, where the green fishery is carried +on, as it is too narrow at this altitude. + +When we were about half way across, we encountered a whale, which was +asleep. The vessel, passing over him, awakening him betimes, made a great +hole in him near the tail, without damaging our vessel; but he threw out an +abundance of blood. + +It has seemed to me not out of place to give here a brief description of +the mode of catching whales, which many have not witnessed, and suppose +that they are shot, owing to the false assertions about the matter made to +them in their ignorance by impostors, and on account of which such ideas +have often been obstinately maintained in my presence. + +Those, then, most skilful in this fishery are the Basques, who, for the +purpose of engaging in it, take their vessels to a place of security, and +near where they think whales are plenty. Then they equip several shallops +manned by competent men and provided with hawsers, small ropes made of the +best hemp to be found, at least a hundred and fifty fathoms long. They are +also provided with many halberds of the length of a short pike, whose iron +is six inches broad; others are from a foot and a half to two feet long, +and very sharp. Each shallop has a harpooner, the most agile and adroit man +they have, whose pay is next highest to that of the masters, his position +being the most dangerous one. This shallop being outside of the port, the +men look in all quarters for a whale, tacking about in all directions. But, +if they see nothing, they return to the shore, and ascend the highest point +they can find, and from which they can get the most extensive view. Here +they station a man on the look-out. They are aided in catching sight of a +whale both by his size and the water he spouts through his blow-holes, +which is more than a puncheon at a time, and two lances high. From the +amount of this water, they estimate how much oil he will yield. From some +they get as many as one hundred and twenty puncheons, from others less. +Having caught sight of this monstrous fish, they hasten to embark in their +shallops, and by rowing or sailing they advance until they are upon him. + +Seeing him under water, the harpooner goes at once to the prow of the +shallop with his harpoon, an iron two feet long and half a foot wide at the +lower part, and attached to a stick as long as a small pike, in the middle +of which is a hole to which the hawser is made fast. The harpooner, +watching his time, throws his harpoon at the whale, which enters him well +forward. As soon as he finds himself wounded, the whale goes down. And if +by chance turning about, as he does sometimes, his tail strikes the +shallop, it breaks it like glass. This is the only risk they run of being +killed in harpooning. As soon as they have thrown the harpoon into him, +they let the hawser run until the whale reaches the bottom. But sometimes +he does not go straight to the bottom, when he drags the shallop eight or +nine leagues or more, going as swiftly as a horse. Very often they are +obliged to cut their hawser, for fear that the whale will take them +underwater. But, when he goes straight to the bottom, he rests there +awhile, and then returns quietly to the surface, the men taking aboard +again the hawser as he rises. When he comes to the top, two or three +shallops are stationed around with halberds, with which they give him +several blows. Finding himself struck, the whale goes down again, leaving a +trail of blood, and grows weak to such an extent that he has no longer any +strength nor energy, and returning to the surface is finally killed. When +dead, he does not go down again; fastening stout ropes to him, they drag +him ashore to their head-quarters, the place where they pry out the fat of +the whale, to obtain his oil. This is the way whales are taken, and not by +cannon-shots, which many suppose, as I have stated above. + +To resume the thread of my narrative: after wounding the whale, as +mentioned, we captured a great many porpoises, which our mate harpooned to +our pleasure and amusement. We also caught a great many fish having a +large ear, with a hook and line, attaching to the hook a little fish +resembling a herring, and letting it trail behind the vessel. The large +ear, thinking it in fact a living fish, comes up to swallow it, thus +finding himself at once caught by the hook, which is concealed in the body +of the little fish. This fish is very good, and has certain tufts which are +very handsome, and resemble those worn on plumes. + +On the 22d of September, we arrived on soundings. Here we saw twenty +vessels some four leagues to the west of us, which, as they appeared from +our vessel, we judged to be Flemish. + +On the 25th of the month, we sighted the Isle de Grenezé, [368] after +experiencing a strong blow, which lasted until noon. + +On the 27th of the month, we arrived at Honfleur. + +ENDNOTES: + +368. Guernsey, which lay directly before them as they advanced up the + English Channel, and was the first large island that met the eye on + their way to Honfleur. + + + + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Voyages of Samuel de Champlain, Vol. 2, by +Samuel de Champlain + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK VOYAGES OF DE CHAMPLAIN, VOL 2 *** + +***** This file should be named 6749-8.txt or 6749-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/6/7/4/6749/ + +Produced by Karl Hagen, Juliet Sutherland, Charles Franks, +and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team. Images +provided courtesy of www.canadiana.org. + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will +be renamed. + +Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright +law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, +so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United +States without permission and without paying copyright +royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part +of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm +concept and trademark. Project Gutenberg is a registered trademark, +and may not be used if you charge for the eBooks, unless you receive +specific permission. If you do not charge anything for copies of this +eBook, complying with the rules is very easy. You may use this eBook +for nearly any purpose such as creation of derivative works, reports, +performances and research. They may be modified and printed and given +away--you may do practically ANYTHING in the United States with eBooks +not protected by U.S. copyright law. Redistribution is subject to the +trademark license, especially commercial redistribution. + +START: FULL LICENSE + +THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE +PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK + +To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free +distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work +(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project +Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full +Project Gutenberg-tm License available with this file or online at +www.gutenberg.org/license. + +Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works + +1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to +and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property +(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all +the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or +destroy all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your +possession. If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a +Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound +by the terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the +person or entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph +1.E.8. + +1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be +used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who +agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few +things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See +paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this +agreement and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works. See paragraph 1.E below. + +1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the +Foundation" or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection +of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual +works in the collection are in the public domain in the United +States. If an individual work is unprotected by copyright law in the +United States and you are located in the United States, we do not +claim a right to prevent you from copying, distributing, performing, +displaying or creating derivative works based on the work as long as +all references to Project Gutenberg are removed. Of course, we hope +that you will support the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting +free access to electronic works by freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm +works in compliance with the terms of this agreement for keeping the +Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with the work. You can easily +comply with the terms of this agreement by keeping this work in the +same format with its attached full Project Gutenberg-tm License when +you share it without charge with others. + +1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern +what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are +in a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, +check the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this +agreement before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, +distributing or creating derivative works based on this work or any +other Project Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no +representations concerning the copyright status of any work in any +country outside the United States. + +1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: + +1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other +immediate access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear +prominently whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work +on which the phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the +phrase "Project Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, +performed, viewed, copied or distributed: + + This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and + most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no + restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it + under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this + eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the + United States, you'll have to check the laws of the country where you + are located before using this ebook. + +1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is +derived from texts not protected by U.S. copyright law (does not +contain a notice indicating that it is posted with permission of the +copyright holder), the work can be copied and distributed to anyone in +the United States without paying any fees or charges. If you are +redistributing or providing access to a work with the phrase "Project +Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the work, you must comply +either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 or +obtain permission for the use of the work and the Project Gutenberg-tm +trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted +with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution +must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any +additional terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms +will be linked to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works +posted with the permission of the copyright holder found at the +beginning of this work. + +1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this +work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. + +1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this +electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without +prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with +active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project +Gutenberg-tm License. + +1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, +compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including +any word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access +to or distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format +other than "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official +version posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site +(www.gutenberg.org), you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense +to the user, provide a copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means +of obtaining a copy upon request, of the work in its original "Plain +Vanilla ASCII" or other form. Any alternate format must include the +full Project Gutenberg-tm License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. + +1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, +performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works +unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing +access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +provided that + +* You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from + the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method + you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is owed + to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he has + agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the Project + Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments must be paid + within 60 days following each date on which you prepare (or are + legally required to prepare) your periodic tax returns. Royalty + payments should be clearly marked as such and sent to the Project + Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the address specified in + Section 4, "Information about donations to the Project Gutenberg + Literary Archive Foundation." + +* You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies + you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he + does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm + License. You must require such a user to return or destroy all + copies of the works possessed in a physical medium and discontinue + all use of and all access to other copies of Project Gutenberg-tm + works. + +* You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of + any money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the + electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days of + receipt of the work. + +* You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free + distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work or group of works on different terms than +are set forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing +from both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and The +Project Gutenberg Trademark LLC, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm +trademark. Contact the Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. + +1.F. + +1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable +effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread +works not protected by U.S. copyright law in creating the Project +Gutenberg-tm collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may +contain "Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate +or corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other +intellectual property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or +other medium, a computer virus, or computer codes that damage or +cannot be read by your equipment. + +1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right +of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project +Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all +liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal +fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT +LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE +PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE +TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE +LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR +INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH +DAMAGE. + +1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a +defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can +receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a +written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you +received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium +with your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you +with the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in +lieu of a refund. If you received the work electronically, the person +or entity providing it to you may choose to give you a second +opportunity to receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If +the second copy is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing +without further opportunities to fix the problem. + +1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth +in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO +OTHER WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT +LIMITED TO WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. + +1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied +warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of +damages. If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement +violates the law of the state applicable to this agreement, the +agreement shall be interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or +limitation permitted by the applicable state law. The invalidity or +unenforceability of any provision of this agreement shall not void the +remaining provisions. + +1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the +trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone +providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in +accordance with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the +production, promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works, harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, +including legal fees, that arise directly or indirectly from any of +the following which you do or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this +or any Project Gutenberg-tm work, (b) alteration, modification, or +additions or deletions to any Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any +Defect you cause. + +Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm + +Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of +electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of +computers including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It +exists because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations +from people in all walks of life. + +Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the +assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's +goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will +remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure +and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future +generations. To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation and how your efforts and donations can help, see +Sections 3 and 4 and the Foundation information page at +www.gutenberg.org Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit +501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the +state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal +Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification +number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent permitted by +U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. + +The Foundation's principal office is in Fairbanks, Alaska, with the +mailing address: PO Box 750175, Fairbanks, AK 99775, but its +volunteers and employees are scattered throughout numerous +locations. Its business office is located at 809 North 1500 West, Salt +Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887. Email contact links and up to +date contact information can be found at the Foundation's web site and +official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact + +For additional contact information: + + Dr. Gregory B. Newby + Chief Executive and Director + gbnewby@pglaf.org + +Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation + +Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide +spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of +increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be +freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest +array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations +($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt +status with the IRS. + +The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating +charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United +States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a +considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up +with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations +where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To SEND +DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any particular +state visit www.gutenberg.org/donate + +While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we +have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition +against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who +approach us with offers to donate. + +International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make +any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from +outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. + +Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation +methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other +ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. To +donate, please visit: www.gutenberg.org/donate + +Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works. + +Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project +Gutenberg-tm concept of a library of electronic works that could be +freely shared with anyone. For forty years, he produced and +distributed Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of +volunteer support. + +Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as not protected by copyright in +the U.S. unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not +necessarily keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper +edition. + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search +facility: www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. + diff --git a/6749-8.zip b/6749-8.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..262140b --- /dev/null +++ b/6749-8.zip diff --git a/6749.txt b/6749.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..5d7085c --- /dev/null +++ b/6749.txt @@ -0,0 +1,9530 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Voyages of Samuel de Champlain, Vol. 2, by +Samuel de Champlain + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most +other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions +whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of +the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at +www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have +to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. + +Title: Voyages of Samuel de Champlain, Vol. 2 + +Author: Samuel de Champlain + +Posting Date: October 5, 2014 [EBook #6749] +Release Date: October, 2004 +First Posted: January 21, 2003 +Last Updated: December 23, 2015 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK VOYAGES OF DE CHAMPLAIN, VOL 2 *** + + + + +Produced by Karl Hagen, Juliet Sutherland, Charles Franks, +and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team. Images +provided courtesy of www.canadiana.org. + + + + + + + + + + +Transcriber's Notes: +The original text of this edition used tall-s. These have been replaced +with ordinary 's'. The original footnotes have been converted to endnotes +and placed at the end of each chapter. The original numbering has been +retained. The number 176-1/2 and presence of two notes numbered [283] are +both original. + +THE +PUBLICATIONS OF THE PRINCE SOCIETY +Established May 25th, 1858. + +CHAMPLAIN'S VOYAGES. + + +VOYAGES +OF +SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN. + +TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH +BY CHARLES POMEROY OTIS, PH.D. + +WITH HISTORICAL ILLUSTRATIONS, +AND A +MEMOIR + +BY THE REV. EDMUND F. SLAFTER, A.M. + +VOL. II. +1604-1610. + +HELIOTYPE COPIES OF TWENTY LOCAL MAPS. + +Editor: +THE REV. EDMUND F. SLAFTER, A.M. + + + + +PREFACE. + +Champlain's edition of 1613 contains, in connection with the preliminary +matter, two pieces of poetry, one signed L'ANGE, Paris, the other MOTIN. +They were contributed doubtless by some friend, intended to be +complimentary to the author, to embellish the volume and to give it a +favorable introduction to the reader. This was in conformity to a +prevailing custom of that period. They contain no intrinsic historical +interest or value whatever, and, if introduced, would not serve their +original purpose, but would rather be an incumbrance, and they have +consequently been omitted in the present work. + +Champlain also included a summary of chapters, identical with the headings +of chapters in this translation, evidently intended to take the place of an +index, which he did not supply. To repeat these headings would be +superfluous, particularly as this work is furnished with a copious index. + +The edition of 1613 was divided into two books. This division has been +omitted here, both as superfluous and confusing. + +The maps referred to on Champlain's title-page may be found in Vol. III. of +this work. In France, the needle deflects to the east; and the dial-plate, +as figured on the larger map, that of 1612, is constructed accordingly. On +it the line marked _nornordest_ represents the true north, while the index +is carried round to the left, and points out the variation of the needle to +the west. The map is oriented by the needle without reference to its +variation, but the true meridian is laid down by a strong line on which the +degrees of latitude are numbered. From this the points of the compass +between any two places may be readily obtained. + +A Note, relating to Hudson's discoveries in 1612, as delineated on +Champlain's small map, introduced by him in the prefatory matter, +apparently after the text had been struck off, will appear in connection +with the map itself, where it more properly belongs. + +E. F. S. + +BOSTON, 11 BEACON STREET, +October 21, 1878. + + + + +TABLE OF CONTENTS + +PREFACE +CHAMPLAIN'S DEDICATION OF HIS WORK TO THE KING +ADDRESS TO THE QUEEN REGENT +EXTRACT FROM THE LICENSE +VOYAGE 1604 TO 1608 +FIRST VOYAGE AS LIEUTENANT, 1608 TO 1610 +SECOND VOYAGE AS LIEUTENANT, 1610 +LOCAL MAPS: + Port de la Heve + Port du Roissignol + Port du Mouton + Port Royal + Port des Mines + Riviere St. Jehan + Isle de Sainte Croix + Habitation de L'Isle Ste. Croix + Quinibequy + Chouacoit R. + Port St. Louis + Malle Barre + L'Abitation du Port Royal + Le Beau Port + Port Fortune + The Attack at Port Fortune + Port de Tadoucac + Quebec + Abitation de Quebecq + Defeat of the Iroquois at Lake Champlain +INDEX + + + + +THE VOYAGES +OF SIEUR DE CHAMPLAIN, + +Of Saintonge, Captain in ordinary to the +King in the Marine. + +OR, + +_A MOST FAITHFUL JOURNAL OF OBSERVATIONS +made in the exploration of New France, describing not only the countries, +coasts, rivers, ports, and harbors, with their latitudes and the various +deflections of the Magnetic Needle, but likewise the religious belief of +the inhabitants, their superstitions, mode of life and warfare; furnished +with numerous illustrations_. + +Together with two geographical maps: the first for the purposes of +navigation, adapted to the compass as used by mariners, which deflects to +the north-east; the other in its true meridian, with longitudes and +latitudes, to which is added the Voyage to the Strait north of Labrador, +from the 53d to the 63d degree of latitude, discovered in 1612 by the +English when they were searching for a northerly course to China. + +PARIS. + +JEAN BERJON, + +Rue St. Jean de Beauvais, at the Flying Horse, +and at his store in the Palace, +at the gallery of the Prisoners. + +MDCXIII. + +_WITH AUTHORITY OF THE KING_. + + + + +TO THE KING. + +_Sire, + +Your Majesty has doubtless full knowledge of the discoveries made in your +service in New France, called Canada, through the descriptions, given by +certain Captains and Pilots, of the voyages and discoveries made there +during the past eighty years. These, however, present nothing so honorable +to your Kingdom, or so profitable to the service of your Majesty and your +subjects, as will, I doubt not, the maps of the coasts, harbors, rivers, +and the situation of the places described in this little treatise, which I +make bold to address to your Majesty, and which is entitled a Journal of +Voyages and Discoveries, which I have made in connection with Sieur de +Monts, your Lieutenant in New France. This I do, feeling myself urged by a +just sense of the honor I have received during the last ten years in +commissions, not only, Sire, from your Majesty, but also from the late +king, Henry the Great, of happy memory, who commissioned me to make the +most exact researches and explorations in my power. This I have done, and +added, moreover, the maps contained in this little book, where I have set +forth in particular the dangers to which one would be liable. The subjects +of your Majesty, whom you may be pleased hereafter to employ for the +preservation of what has been discovered, will be able to avoid those +dangers through the knowledge afforded by the maps contained in this +treatise, which will serve as an example in your kingdom for increasing the +glory of your Majesty, the welfare of your subjects, and for the honor of +the very humble service, for which, to the happy prolongation of your days, +is indebted, + +SIRE, + +Your most humble, most obedient, +and most faithful servant and subject, + +CHAMPLAIN_. + + + + +TO THE QUEEN REGENT, + +MOTHER OF THE KING. + +MADAME, + +Of all the most useful and excellent arts, that of navigation has always +seemed to me to occupy the first place. For the more hazardous it is, and +the more numerous the perils and losses by which it is attended, so much +the more is it esteemed and exalted above all others, being wholly unsuited +to the timid and irresolute. By this art we obtain knowledge of different +countries, regions, and realms. By it we attract and bring to our own land +all kinds of riches, by it the idolatry of paganism is overthrown and +Christianity proclaimed throughout all the regions of the earth. This is +the art which from my early age has won my love, and induced me to expose +myself almost all my life to the impetuous waves of the ocean, and led me +to explore the coasts of a part of America, especially of New France, where +I have always desired to see the Lily flourish, and also the only religion, +catholic, apostolic, and Roman. This I trust now to accomplish with the +help of God, assisted by the favor of your Majesty, whom I most humbly +entreat to continue to sustain us, in order that all may succeed to the +honor of God, the welfare of France, and the splendor of your reign, for +the grandeur and prosperity of which I will pray God to attend you always +with a thousand blessings, and will remain, + +MADAME, + Your most humble, most obedient, + and most faithful servant and subject, + CHAMPLAIN. + + + + +EXTRACT FROM THE LICENSE. + +By letters patent of the KING, given at Paris the ninth of January, 1613, +and in the third year of our reign, by the King in his Council, PERREAU, +and sealed with the simple yellow seal, it is permitted to JEAN BERJON, +printer and bookseller in this city of Paris, to print, or have printed by +whomsoever it may seem good to him, a book entitled _The Voyages of Samuel +de Champlain of Saintonge, Captain in ordinary for the King in the Marine, +&c._, for the time and limit of six entire consecutive years, from the day +when this book shall have been printed up to the said time of six years. By +the same letters, in like manner all printers, merchant booksellers, and +any others whatever, are forbidden to print or have printed, to sell or +distribute said book during the aforesaid time, without the special consent +of said BERJON, or of him to whom he shall give permission, on pain of +confiscation of so many of said books as shall be found, and a +discretionary fine, as is more fully set forth in the aforesaid letters. + + + + +VOYAGES +OF +SIEUR DE CHAMPLAIN. + + +VOYAGE IN THE YEAR 1604. + +CHAPTER I. + +THE BENEFITS OF COMMERCE HAVE INDUCED SEVERAL PRINCES TO SEEK AN EASIER +ROUTE FOR TRAFFIC WITH THE PEOPLE OF THE EAST.--SEVERAL UNSUCCESSFUL +VOYAGES.--DETERMINATION OF THE FRENCH FOR THIS PURPOSE.--UNDERTAKING OF +SIEUR DE MONTS: HIS COMMISSION AND ITS REVOCATION.--NEW COMMISSION TO SIEUR +DE MONTS TO ENABLE HIM TO CONTINUE HIS UNDERTAKING. + +The inclinations of men differ according to their varied dispositions; and +each one in his calling has his particular end in view. Some aim at gain, +some at glory, some at the public weal. The greater number are engaged in +trade, and especially that which is transacted on the sea. Hence arise the +principal support of the people, the opulence and honor of states. This is +what raised ancient Rome to the sovereignty and mastery over the entire +world, and the Venetians to a grandeur equal to that of powerful kings. It +has in all times caused maritime towns to abound in riches, among which +Alexandria and Tyre are distinguished, and numerous others, which fill up +the regions of the interior with the objects of beauty and rarity obtained +from foreign nations. For this reason, many princes have striven to find a +northerly route to China, in order to facilitate commerce with the +Orientals, in the belief that this route would be shorter and less +dangerous. + +In the year 1496, the king of England commissioned John Cabot and his son +Sebastian to engage in this search. [1] About the same time, Don Emanuel, +king of Portugal, despatched on the same errand Gaspar Cortereal, who +returned without attaining his object. Resuming his journeys the year +after, he died in the undertaking; as did also his brother Michel, who was +prosecuting it perseveringly. [2] In the years 1534 and 1535, Jacques +Cartier received a like commission from King Francis I., but was arrested +in his course. [3] Six years after, Sieur de Roberval, having renewed it, +sent Jean Alfonse of Saintonge farther northward along the coast of +Labrador; [4] but he returned as wise as the others. In the years 1576, +1577, and 1578, Sir Martin Frobisher, an Englishman, made three voyages +along the northern coasts. Seven years later, Humphrey Gilbert, also an +Englishman, set out with five ships, but suffered shipwreck on Sable +Island, where three of his vessels were lost. In the same and two following +years, John Davis, an Englishman, made three voyages for the same object; +penetrating to the 72d degree, as far as a strait which is called at the +present day by his name. After him, Captain Georges made also a voyage in +1590, but in consequence of the ice was compelled to return without having +made any discovery. [5] The Hollanders, on their part, had no more precise +knowledge in the direction of Nova Zembla. + +So many voyages and discoveries without result, and attended with so much +hardship and expense, have caused us French in late years to attempt a +permanent settlement in those lands which we call New France, [6] in the +hope of thus realizing more easily this object; since the voyage in search +of the desired passage commences on the other side of the ocean, and is +made along the coast of this region. [7] These considerations had induced +the Marquis de la Roche, in 1598, to take a commission from the king for +making a settlement in the above region. With this object, he landed men +and supplies on Sable Island; [8] but, as the conditions which had been +accorded to him by his Majesty were not fulfilled, he was obliged to +abandon his undertaking, and leave his men there. A year after, Captain +Chauvin accepted another commission to transport Settlers to the same +region; [9] but, as this was shortly after revoked, he prosecuted the +matter no farther. + +After the above, [10] notwithstanding all these accidents and +disappointments, Sieur de Monts desired to attempt what had been given up +in despair, and requested a commission for this purpose of his Majesty, +being satisfied that the previous enterprises had failed because the +undertakers of them had not received assistance, who had not succeeded, in +one nor even two years' time, in making the acquaintance of the regions and +people there, nor in finding harbors adapted for a settlement. He proposed +to his Majesty a means for covering these expenses, without drawing any +thing from the royal revenues; viz., by granting to him the monopoly of the +fur-trade in this land. This having been granted to him, he made great and +excessive outlays, and carried out with him a large number of men of +various vocations. Upon his arrival, he caused the necessary number of +habitations for his followers to be constructed. This expenditure he +continued for three consecutive years, after which, in consequence of the +jealousy and annoyance of certain Basque merchants, together with some from +Brittany, the monopoly which had been granted to him was revoked by the +Council to the great injury and loss of Sieur de Monts, who, in consequence +of this revocation, was compelled to abandon his entire undertaking, +sacrificing his labors and the outfit for his settlement. + +But since a report had been made to the king on the fertility of the soil +by him, and by me on the feasibility of discovering the passage to China, +[11] without the inconveniences of the ice of the north or the heats of the +torrid zone, through which our sailors pass twice in going and twice in +returning, with inconceivable hardships and risks, his Majesty directed +Sieur de Monts to make a new outfit, and send men to continue what he had +commenced. This he did. And, in view of the uncertainty of his commission, +[12] he chose a new spot for his settlement, in order to deprive jealous +persons of any such distrust as they had previously conceived. He was also +influenced by the hope of greater advantages in case of settling in the +interior, where the people are civilized, and where it is easier to plant +the Christian faith and establish such order as is necessary for the +protection of a country, than along the sea-shore, where the savages +generally dwell. From this course, he believed the king would derive an +inestimable profit; for it is easy to suppose that Europeans will seek out +this advantage rather than those of a jealous and intractable disposition +to be found on the shores, and the barbarous tribes. [13] + +ENDNOTES: + +1. The first commission was granted by Henry VII. of England to John Cabot + and his three sons, Lewis, Sebastian, and Sancius, March 5, 1496.-- + _Rymer's Foedera_, Vol. XII. p. 595. The first voyage, however, was made + in 1497. The second commission was granted to John Cabot alone, in + 1498.--_Vide Hakluyt_, 1600, London, ed. 1810, Vol. III. pp. 25-31. + +2. Cortereal made two voyages under the patronage of Emmanuel, King of + Portugal, the first in 1500, the second in 1501. In the latter year, he + sailed with two ships from Lisbon, and explored six hundred miles or + more on our northern coast. The vessel in which he sailed was lost; and + he perished, together with fifty natives whom he had captured. The other + vessel returned, and reported the incidents of the expedition. The next + year, Michael Cortereal, the brother of Gaspar, obtained a commission, + and went in search of his brother; but he did not return, and no tidings + were ever heard of him. + +3. Jacques Cartier made three voyages in 1534, 1535, and 1540, + respectively, in which he effected very important discoveries; and + Charlevoix justly remarks that Cartier's Memoirs long served as a guide + to those who after him navigated the gulf and river of St. Lawrence. For + Cartier's commission, see _Hazard's State Papers_, Vol. I. p. 19. + +4. Roberval's voyage was made in 1542, and is reported by Jean Alfonse.-- + _Vide Hakluyt_, 1600, London, ed. 1810, Vol. III. p. 291. On an old map, + drawn about the middle of the sixteenth century, Roberval is represented + in a full-length portrait, clad in mail, with sword and spear, at the + head of a band of armed soldiers, penetrating into the wilds of Canada, + near the head-waters of the Saguenay. The name, "Monsr. de Roberual," is + inserted near his feet,--_Vide Monuments de la Geographie_, XIX., par + M. Jomard, Paris. + +5. For the narrative of the voyages of Frobisher, Gilbert, and Davis, _vide + Hakluyt_, Vol. III. Of the fleet of five vessels commanded by Sir + Humphrey Gilbert, in 1583, the Ralegh put back to England, on account of + sickness on board; the Golden Hinde returned safely to port; the + _Swallow_ was left at Newfoundland, to bring home the sick; the + _Delight_ was lost near Sable Island; and the _Squirrel_ went down on + its way to England, some days after leaving Sable Island. Thus two only + were lost, while a third was left. + + There must have been some error in regard to the voyage of Captain + Georges. There is no printed account of a voyage at that time by any one + of this name. There are two theories on which this statement may be + explained. There may have been a voyage by a Captain Georges, which, for + some unknown reason, was never reported; or, what is more likely, + Champlain may refer to the voyage of Captain George Weymouth, undertaken + in 1602 for the East Ind. Company, which was defeated by the icebergs + which he encountered, and the mutiny of his men. It was not uncommon to + omit part of a name at that period. Of Pont Grave, the last name is + frequently omitted by Champlain and by Lescarbot. The report of + Weymouth's voyage was not printed till after Champlain wrote; and he + might easily have mistaken the date. + +6. The name of New France, _Novus Francisca_, appears on a map in Ptolemy + published at Basle in 1530. + +7. The controlling object of the numerous voyages to the north-east coast + of America had hitherto been to discover a shorter course to India. In + this respect, as Champlain states above, they had all proved + failures. He here intimates that the settlements of the French on this + coast were intended to facilitate this design. It is obvious that a + colonial establishment would offer great advantages as a base in + prosecuting searches for this desired passage to Cathay. + +8. For some account of this disastrous expedition, see _Memoir_, Vol. I. + +9. _Vide Memoir_, Vol. I. + +10. It will be observed that Champlain does not mention the expedition sent + out by Commander de Chastes, probably because its object was + exploration, and not actual settlement.--_Vide_ an account of De + Chastes in the _Memoir_, Vol. I. + +11. In Champlain's report of the voyage of 1603, after obtaining what + information he could from the natives relating to the St. Lawrence and + the chain of lakes, he says they informed him that the last lake in the + chain was salt, and he therefore believed it to be the South Sea. He + doubtless enlarged verbally before the king upon the feasibility of a + passage to China in this way. + +12. The commission here referred to was doubtless the one renewed to him in + 1608, after he had made his searches on the shores of New England and + Nova Scotia, and after the commission or charter of 1603 had been + revoked. + + Champlain is here stating the advantages of a settlement in the + interior, on the shores of the St. Lawrence, rather than on the + Atlantic coast. + +13. In this chapter, Champlain speaks of events stretching through several + years; but in the next he confines himself to the occurrences of 1603, + when De Monts obtained his charter. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +DESCRIPTION OF SABLE ISLAND; CAPE BRETON; LA HEVE; PORT AU MOUTON; PORT +CAPE NEGRE; SABLE BAY AND CAPE; CORMORANT ISLAND; CAPE FOURCHU; LONG +ISLAND; BAY OF SAINT MARY; PORT SAINT MARGARET; AND OF ALL NOTEWORTHY +OBJECTS ALONG THIS COAST. + +Sieur de Monts, by virtue of his commission [14] having published in all +the ports and harbors of this kingdom the prohibition against the violation +of the monopoly of the fur-trade accorded him by his Majesty, gathered +together about one hundred and twenty artisans, whom he embarked in two +vessels: one of a hundred and twenty tons, commanded by Sieur de Pont +Grave; [15] another, of a hundred and fifty tons, in which he embarked +himself, [16] together with several noblemen. + +We set out from Havre de Grace April 7th, 1604, and Pont Grave April 10th, +to rendezvous at Canseau, [17] twenty leagues from Cape Breton. [18] But +after we were in mid-ocean, Sieur de Monts changed his plan, and directed +his course towards Port Mouton, it being more southerly and also more +favorable for landing than Canseau. + +On May 1st, we sighted Sable Island, where we ran a risk of being lost in +consequence of the error of our pilots, who were deceived in their +calculation, which they made forty leagues ahead of where we were. + +This island is thirty leagues distant north and South from Cape Breton, and +in length is about fifteen leagues. It contains a small lake. The island is +very sandy, and there are no trees at all of considerable size, only copse +and herbage, which serve as pasturage for the bullocks and cows, which the +Portuguese carried there more than sixty years ago, and which were very +serviceable to the party of the Marquis de la Roche. The latter, during +their sojourn of several years there, captured a large number of very fine +black foxes, [19] whose skins they carefully preserved. There are many +sea-wolves [20] there, with the skins of which they clothed themselves +since they had exhausted their own stock of garments. By order of the +Parliamentary Court of Rouen, a vessel was sent there to recover them. [21] +The directors of the enterprise caught codfish near the island, the +neighborhood of which abounds in shoals. + +On the 8th of the same month, we sighted Cap de la Heve, [22] to the east +of which is a bay, containing several islands covered with fir-trees. On +the main land are oaks, elms, and birches. It joins the coast of La Cadie +at the latitude of 44 deg. 5', and at 16 deg. 15' of the deflection of the magnetic +needle, distant east-north-east eighty-five leagues from Cape Breton, of +which we shall speak hereafter. + +On the 12th of May, we entered another port, [23] five leagues +from Cap de la Heve, where we captured a vessel engaged +in the fur-trade in violation of the king's prohibition. The +master's name was Rossignol, whose name the port retained, +which is in latitude 44 deg. 15'. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +PORT DE LA HEVE. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. The place where vessels anchor. +_B_. A small river dry at low tide. +_C_. Places where the savages have their cabins.[Note: The letter C is + wanting, but the location of the cabins is obvious.] +_D_. Shoal at the entrance of the harbor. [Note: The letter D is also + wanting, but the figures sufficiently indicate the depth of the + water.] +_E_. A small island covered with wood. [Note: The letter E appears twice by + mistake.] +_F_. Cape de la Heve [Note: The letter F is likewise wanting. It has been + supposed to be represented by one of the E's on the small island, but + Cap de la Heve, to which it refers, was not on this island, but on the + main land. The F should have been, we think, on the west of the + harbor, where the elevation is indicated on the map. _Vide_ note 22.] + + * * * * * + +On the 13th of May, we arrived at a very fine harbor, where there are two +little streams, called Port au Mouton, [24] which is seven leagues distant +from that of Rossignol. The land is very stony, and covered with copse and +heath. There are a great many rabbits, and a quantity of game in +consequence of the ponds there. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +PORT DU ROSSIGNOL. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. A river extending twenty-five leagues inland. +_B_. The place where vessels anchor. +_C_. Place on the main land where the savages have their dwellings. +_D_. Roadstead where vessels anchor while waiting for the tide. +_E_. Place on the island where the savages have their cabins. +_F_. Channel dry at low tide. +_G_. Shore of the main land. The dotted places indicate the shoals. + +NOTE. It would seem as if in the title Rossynol, on the map, the two dots +on the _y_ instead of the _n_ were placed there by mistake. + + * * * * * + +As Soon as we had disembarked, each one commenced making huts after his +fashion, on a point at the entrance of the harbor near two fresh-water +ponds. Sieur de Monts at the Same time despatched a shallop, in which he +sent one of us, with some savages as guides as bearers of letters, along +the coast of La Cadie, to search for Pont Grave, who had a portion of the +necessary supplies for our winter sojourn. The latter was found at the Bay +of All-Isles, [25] very anxious about us (for he knew nothing of the change +of plan); and the letters were handed to him. As soon as be had read them, +he returned to his ship at Canseau, where he seized some Basque vessels +[26] engaged in the fur-trade, notwithstanding the prohibition of his +Majesty, and sent their masters to Sieur de Monts, who meanwhile charged me +to reconnoitre the coast and the harbors suitable for the secure reception +of our vessel. + +With the purpose of carrying out his wishes, I set out from Port Mouton on +the 19th of May, in a barque of eight tons, accompanied by Sieur Ralleau, +his secretary, and ten men. Advancing along the coast, we entered a harbor +very convenient for vessels, at the end of which is a small river, +extending very far into the main land. This I called the Port of Cape +Negro, [27] from a rock whose distant view resembles a negro, which rises +out of the water near a cape passed by us the same day, four leagues off +and ten from Port Mouton. This cape is very dangerous, on account of the +rocks running out into the sea. The shores which I saw, up to that point, +are very low, and covered with such wood as that seen at the Cap de la +Heve; and the islands are all filled with game. Going farther on, we passed +the night at Sable Bay, [28] where vessels can anchor without any danger. + +The next day we went to Cape Sable, [29] also very dangerous, in +consequence of certain rocks and reefs extending almost a league into the +sea. It is two leagues from Sable Bay, where we had spent the night before. +Thence we went to Cormorant Island, [30] a league distant, so called from +the infinite number of cormorants found there, of whose eggs we collected a +cask full. From this island, we sailed westerly about six leagues, crossing +a bay, which makes up to the north two or three leagues. Then we fell in +with several islands [31] distant two or three leagues from the main land; +and, as well as I could judge, some of them were two leagues in extent, +others three, and others were still smaller. Most of them are very +dangerous for large vessels to approach, on account of the tides and the +rocks on a level with the water. These islands are filled with pines, firs, +birches, and aspens. A little farther out, there are four more. In one, we +saw so great a quantity of birds, called penguins, [32] that we killed them +easily with sticks. On another, we found the shore completely covered with +sea-wolves, [33] of which we captured as many as we wished. At the two +others there is such an abundance of birds of different sorts that one +could not imagine it, if he had not seen them. There are cormorants, three +kinds of duck, geese, _marmettes?_, bustards, sea-parrots, snipe, vultures, +and other birds of prey; gulls, sea-larks of two or three kinds; herons, +large sea-gulls, curlews, sea-magpies, divers, ospreys, _appoils?_, ravens, +cranes, and other sorts which I am not acquainted with, and which also make +their nests here. [34] We named these Sea-Wolf Islands. They are in +latitude 43 deg. 30', distant from four to five leagues from the main land, or +Cape Sable. After spending pleasantly some time there in hunting (and not +without capturing much game), we set out and reached a cape, [35] which we +christened Port Fourchu from its being fork-shaped, distant from five to +six leagues from the Sea-Wolf Islands. This harbor is very convenient for +vessels at its entrance; but its remoter part is entirely dry at low tide, +except the channel of a little stream, completely bordered by meadows, +which make this spot very pleasant. There is good codfishing near the +harbor. Departing from there, we sailed north ten or twelve leagues without +finding any harbor for our vessels, but a number of very fine inlets or +shores, where the soil seems to be well adapted for cultivation. The woods +are exceedingly fine here, but there are few pines and firs. This coast is +clear, without islands, rocks, or shoals; so that, in our judgment, vessels +can securely go there. Being distant quarter of a league from the coast, we +went to an island called Long Island, [36] lying north-north-east and +south-south-west, which makes an opening into the great Baye Francoise, +[37] so named by Sieur de Monts. + +This island is six leagues long, and nearly a league broad in some places, +in others only quarter of a league. It is covered with an abundance of +wood, such as pines and birch. All the coast is bordered by very dangerous +rocks; and there is no place at all favorable for vessels, only little +inlets for shallops at the extremity of the island, and three or four small +rocky islands, where the savages capture many sea-wolves. There are strong +tides, especially at the little passage [38] of the island, which is very +dangerous for vessels running the risk of passing through it. + +From Long Island passage, we sailed north-east two leagues, when we found a +cove [39] where vessels can anchor in safety, and which is quarter of a +league or thereabouts in circuit. The bottom is all mire, and the +surrounding land is bordered by very high rocks. In this place there is a +very good silver mine, according to the report of the miner, Master Simon, +who accompanied me. Some leagues farther on there is a little stream called +river Boulay [40] where the tide rises half a league into the land, at the +mouth of which vessels of a hundred tons can easily ride at anchor. Quarter +of a league from here there is a good harbor for vessels, where we found an +iron mine, which our miner estimated would yield fifty per cent [41] +Advancing three leagues farther on to the northeast [42] we saw another +very good iron mine, near which is a river surrounded by beautiful and +attractive meadows. The neighboring soil is red as blood. Some leagues +farther on there is still another river, [43] dry at low tide, except in +its very small channel, and which extends near to Port Royal. At the +extremity of this bay is a channel, also dry at low tide [44] surrounding +which are a number of pastures and good pieces of land for cultivation, +where there are nevertheless great numbers of fine trees of all the kinds +previously mentioned. The distance from Long Island to the end of this bay +may be some six leagues. The entire coast of the mines is very high, +intersected by capes, which appear round, extending out a short distance. +On the other side of the bay, on the south-east, the land is low and good, +where there is a very good harbor, having a bank at its entrance over which +it is necessary to pass. On this bar there is a fathom and a half of water +at low tide; but after passing it you find three, with good bottom. Between +the two points of the harbor there is a pebbly islet, covered at full +tide. This place extends half a league inland. The tide falls here three +fathoms, and there are many shell-fish, such as muscles, cockles, and +sea-snails. The soil is as good as any that I have seen. I named this +harbor Saint Margaret. [45] This entire south-east coast is much lower than +that of the mines, which is only a league and a half from the coast of +Saint Margaret, being Separated by the breadth of the bay, [46] which is +three leagues at its entrance. I took the altitude at this place, and found +the latitude 45 deg. 30', and a little more,[47] the deflection of the magnetic +needle being 17 deg. 16'. + +After having explored as particularly as I could the coasts, ports, and +harbors, I returned, without advancing any farther, to Long Island passage, +whence I went back outside of all the islands in order to observe whether +there was any danger at all on the water side. But we found none whatever, +except there were some rocks about half a league from Sea-Wolf Islands, +which, however, can be easily avoided, since the sea breaks over them. +Continuing our voyage, we were overtaken by a violent wind, which obliged +us to run our barque ashore, where we were in danger of losing her, which +would have caused us extreme perplexity. The tempest having ceased, we +resumed the sea, and the next day reached Port Mouton, where Sieur de Monts +was awaiting us from day to day, thinking only of our long stay, [48] and +whether some accident had not befallen us. I made a report to him of our +voyage, and where our vessels might go in Safety. Meanwhile, I observed +very particularly that place which is in latitude 44 deg. + +The next day Sieur de Monts gave orders to weigh anchor and proceed to the +Bay of Saint Mary, [49] a place which we had found to be Suitable for our +vessel to remain in, until we should be able to find one more advantageous. +Coasting along, we passed near Cape Sable and the Sea-Wolf Islands, whither +Sieur de Monts decided to go in a shallop, and see some islands of which we +had made a report to him, as also of the countless number of birds found +there. Accordingly, he set out, accompanied by Sieur de Poutrincourt, and +several other noblemen, with the intention of going to Penguin Island, +where we had previously killed with sticks a large number of these +birds. Being somewhat distant from our ship, it was beyond our power to +reach it, and still less to reach our vessel; for the tide was so strong +that we were compelled to put in at a little island to pass the night, +where there was much game. I killed there some river-birds, which were very +acceptable to us, especially as we had taken only a few biscuits, expecting +to return the same day. The next day we reached Cape Fourchu, distant half +a league from there. Coasting along, we found our vessel in the Bay of +Saint Mary. Our company were very anxious about us for two days, fearing +lest some misfortune had befallen us; but, when they saw us all safe, they +were much rejoiced. + +Two or three days after our arrival, one of our priests, named Mesire Aubry +[50] from Paris, got lost so completely in the woods while going after his +sword, which he had forgotten, that he could not find the vessel. And he +was thus seventeen days without any thing to subsist upon except some sour +and bitter plants like the sorrel, and some small fruit of little substance +large as currants, which creep upon the ground. [51] Being at his wits' +end, without hope of ever seeing us again, weak and feeble, he found +himself on the shore of Baye Francoise, thus named by Sieur de Monts, near +Long Island, [52] where his strength gave out, when one of our shallops out +fishing discovered him. Not being able to shout to them, he made a sign +with a pole, on the end of which he had put his hat, that they should go +and get him. This they did at once, and brought him off. Sieur de Monts had +caused a search to be made not only by his own men, but also by the savages +of those parts, who scoured all the woods, but brought back no intelligence +of him. Believing him to be dead, they all saw him coming back in the +shallop to their great delight. A long time was needed to restore him to +his usual strength. + +ENDNOTES: + +14. _Vide Commission du Roy au Sieur de Monts, pour l'habitation es terres + de la Cadie, Canada, et autres endroits en la Nouvelle-France_, + Histoire de a Nouvelle-France, par Marc Lescarbot, Paris, 1612, Qvat. + Liv. p. 431. This charter may also be found in English in a _Collection + of Voyages and Travels compiled from the Library of the Earl of Oxford, + by Thomas Osborne_, London, 1745, Vol. II. pp. 796-798; also in + _Murdoch's History of Nova Scotia_, Halifax, 1865, Vol. I. pp. 21-24. + +15. The second officer, or pilot, was, according to Lescarbot, Captain + Morel, of Honfleur. + +16. This was under the direction of De Monts himself; and Captain Timothee, + of Havre de Grace, was pilot, or the second officer. + +17. Lescarbot writes this name Campseau; Champlain's orthography is + Canceau; the English often write Canso, but more correctly Canseau. It + has been derived from _Cansoke_, an Indian word, meaning _facing the + frowning cliffs_. + +18. The Cape and Island of Cape Breton appear to have taken their name from + the fisherman of Brittany, who frequented that region as early as 1504 + --_Vide Champlain's Voyages_, Paris 1632, p. 9. + + Thevet sailed along the coast in 1556, and is quoted by Laverdiere, as + follows: "In this land there is a province called Compestre de Berge, + extending towards the south-east: in the eastern part of the same is + the cape or promontory of Lorraine, called so by us; others have given + it the came of the Cape of the Bretons, since the Bretons, the + Bisayans, and Normans repair thither, and coast along on their way to + Newfoundland to fish for codfish." + + An inscription, "_tera que soy descuberta per pertonnes_," on an Old + Portuguese map of 1520, declares it to be a country discovered by the + Bretons. It is undoubtedly the oldest French name on any part of North + America. On Gastaldo's map in Mattiolo's Italian translation of + Ptolemy, 1548, the name of Breton is applied both to Nova Scotia and to + the Island of Cape Breton. + +19. Winthrop says that Mr. John Rose, who was cast away on Sable Island + about 1633, "saw about eight hundred cattle, small and great, all red, + and the largest he ever saw: and many foxes, wherof some perfect + black."--_Whinthrop's Hist. New Eng._, Boston, 1853, Vol. I. p. 193. + + Champlain doubtless obtained his information in regard to the cattle + left upon Sable Island by the Portuguese from the from the report of + Edward Haies on the voyage of Sir Humphrey Gilbert in 1583: + + "Sablon lieth to the seaward of Cape Briton about twenty-five leagues, + whither we were determined to goe vpon intelligence we had of a + Portugal (during our abode in S. Johns) who was himselfe present, when + the Portugals (aboue thirty yeeres past) did put in the same Island + both Neat and Swine to breede, which were since exceedingly multiplied. + This seemed vnto vs very happy tidings, to haue in an Island lying so + neere vnto the maine, which we intended to plant vpon. Such store of + cattell, whereby we might at all times conueniently be relieued of + victuall, and serued of store for breed."--_Edward Haies in Hakluyt's + Voyages_, London, ed. 1810. Vol. III. p. 197. + +20. "Loups marins," seals. + +21. "The forty poor wretches whom he left on Sable Island found on the + seashore some wrecks of vessels, out of which they built barracks to + shield themselves from the severity of the weather. They were the + remains of Spanish vessels, which had sailed to settle Cape Breton. + From these same ships had come some sheep and cattle, which had + multiplied on Sable Island; and this was for some time a resource for + these poor exiles. Fish was their next food; and, when their clothes + were worn out, they made new ones of seal-skin. At last, after a lapse + of seven years, the king, having heard of their adventure, obliged + Chedotel, the pilot, to go for them; but he found only twelve, the rest + having died of their hardships. His majesty desired to see those, who + returned in the same guise as found by Chedotel, covered with + seal-skin, with their hair and beard of a length and disorder that made + them resemble the pretended river-gods, and so disfigured as to inspire + horror. The king gave them fifty crowns apiece, and sent them home + released from all process of law."--_Shea's Charlevoix_, New York, + 1866, Vol. I. p. 244. See also _Sir William Alexander and American + Colonization_, Prince Society, 1873, p. 174; _Murdoch's Nova Scotia_, + Vol. I. p. 11; _Hakluyt_, Vol. II. pp. 679. 697. + +22. This cape still bears the same name, and is the western point of the + bay at the mouth of a river, likewise of the same name, in the county + of Lunenberg, Nova Scotia. It is an abrupt cliff, rising up one hundred + and fifty feet above the level of the sea. It could therefore be seen + at a great distance, and appears to have been the first land sighted by + them on the coast of La Cadie. A little north of Havre de Grace, in + Normandy, the port from which De Monts and Champlain had sailed, is to + be seen the high, commanding, rocky bluff, known as _Cap de la Heve_. + The place which they first sighted, similar at least in some respects, + they evidently named after this bold and striking headland, which may, + perhaps, have been the last object which they saw on leaving the shores + of France. The word _Heve_ seems to have had a local meaning, as may be + inferred from the following excerpt: "A name, in Lower Normandy, for + cliffs hollowed out below, and where fishermen search for crabs."-- + _Littre_. The harbor delineated on Champlain's local map is now called + Palmerston Bay, and is at the mouth of Petit River. The latitude of + this harbor is about 44 deg. 15'. De Laet's description is fuller than that + of Champlain or Lescarbot.--_Vide Novus Orbis_, 1633, p. 51. + +23. Liverpool, which for a long time bore the name of Port Rossignol; the + lake at the head of the river, about ten miles long and two or three + wide, the largest in Nova Scotia, still bears that appellation. The + latitude is 44 deg. 2' 30". + +24. "Lequel ils appelerent _Le Port du Mouton_, a l'occasion d'un mouton + qui s'estant nove revint a bord, et fut mange de bonne guerre."-- + _Histoire de la Nouvelle-France_, par Marc Lescarbot, Paris, 1612, + Qvat. Liv. p. 449. It still bears the name of Port Mouton, and an + island in the bay is called Mouton Island. + +25. _Baye de Toutes-isles_. Lescarbot calls it "La Baye des Iles:" and + Charlevoix, "Baye de toutes les Isles." It was the bay, or rather the + waters, that stretch along the shores of Halifax County, between Owl's + Head and Liscomb River. + +26. The confiscated provisions taken in the vessels of the Basque + fur-traders and in that of Rossignol were, according to Lescarbot, + found very useful. De Monts had given timely notice of his monopoly; + and, whether it had reached them or not, they were doubtless wrong in + law. Although De Monts treated them with gentleness, nevertheless it is + not unlikely that a compromise would have been better policy than an + entire confiscation of their property, as these Basques afterwards, on + their return to France, gave him serious inconvenience. They were + instrumental mainly in wresting from him his charter of La Cadie. + +27. _Le Port du Cap Negre_. This port still bears the name of Negro + Harbor. It is situated at the mouth of the Clyde, the small river + referred to in the text. + +28. Near Cape Sable Island, at what is now known as Barrington Harbor. + +29. This is still called Cape Sable, and is the southern point of Sable + Island, or, more properly, the cluster of rock, and islets that + surround its southern extremity. + +30. _Isle aux Cormorans_. It is difficult to distinguish with certainty the + island here referred to, but it was probably Hope Island, as this lies + directly in their way in crossing the bay, six leagues wide, which is + now known as Townsend Bay. The bird here mentioned was the common + cormorant. _Graculus carbo_, of a glossy greenish-black color, back and + wings bronzy-gray; about three feet in length, and is common on our + northern Atlantic coast: eminently gregarious, particularly in the + breeding season, congregating in vast flocks. At the present time, it + breeds in great numbers in Labrador and Newfoundland, and in the winter + migrates as far south as the Middle States. They feed principally upon + fish, lay commonly two eggs, of a pale greenish color, overlaid with a + white chalky substance.--_Vide Cones's Key to Nor. Am. Birds_. Boston, + 1872. p. 302. + +31. A cluster of islands now known as the Tousquet or Tusket Islands. + Further on, Champlain says they named them _Isles aux loups marins_. + Sea-Wolf Islands. About five leagues south of them is an island now + called Seal Island. The four more which he saw a little further on were + probably in Townsend Bay. + +32. This is the Auk, family _Alcidae_, and must not be confounded with the + penguin of the southern hemisphere, although it is described by the + early navigators of the Northern Atlantic under that appellation. In + Anthony Parkhurst's letter to Hakluyt, 1578, he says: "These birds are + also called Penguins, and cannot flie, there is more meate in one of + these then in a goose: the Frenchmen that fish neere the grand baie, do + bring small store of flesh with them, but victuall themselves alwayes + with these birds."--_Hakluyt_, London, ed. 1810, Vol. III. p. 172. + Edward Haies, in his report of the voyage of Sir Humphrey Gilbert in + 1583, say's: "We had sight of an Island named Penguin, of a foule there + breeding in abundance, almost incredible, which cannot flie, their + wings not able to carry their body, being very large (not much lesse + then a goose), and exceeding fat: which the Frenchmen use to take + without difficulty upon that Island, and to barrell them up with salt." + _Idem_, p. 191. + + The Auk is confined to the northern hemisphere, where it represents the + penguins of the southern. Several species occur in the Northern + Atlantic in almost incredible numbers: they are all marine, feed on + fish and other animal substances exclusively, and lay from one to three + eggs on the bare rocks. Those seen by Champlain and other early + navigators were the Great Auk. _Alca impennis_, now nearly extinct. It + was formerly found on the coast of New England, as is proved not only + by the testimony of the primitive explorers, but by the remains found + in shell-heaps. The latest discovery was of one found dead near + St. Augustine, in Labrador, in 1870. A specimen of the Great Auk is + preserved in the Cambridge Museum.--_Vide Coues's Key to North Am. + Birds_, Boston, 1872. p. 338. + +33. The sea-wolf or _loup marin_ of Champlain is the marine mammiferous + quadruped of the family Phocidae, known as the seal. Sea-wolf was a + name applied to it by the early navigators.--_Vide Purchas's Pilgrims_, + London, 1625. Vol. IV. p. 1385. Those here mentioned were the common + seal, _Phoca vitulina_, which are still found on the coasts of Nova + Scotia, vulgarly known as the harbor seal. They are thinly distributed + as far south as Long Island Sound, but are found in great numbers in + the waters of Labrador and Newfoundland, where they are taken for the + oil obtained from them, and for the skins, which are used for various + purposes in the arts. + +34. The names given to these birds were such, doubtless, as were known to + belong to birds similar in color, size, and figure in Europe. Some of + them were probably misapplied. The name alone is not sufficient for + identification. + +35. This cape, near the entrance to Yarmouth, still bears the same name, + from _fourchu_, forked. On a map of 1755, it is called Forked Cape, and + near it is Fork Ledge and Forked Harbor.--_Memorials of English and + French Commissaries_, London, 1755. + +36. It still retains the name given to it by Champlain. It forms a part of + the western limit of St. Mary's Bay, and a line drawn from it to the + St. Croix, cutting the Grand Manan, would mark the entrance of the Bay + of Fundy. + +37. The Bay of Fundy was thus first named "Baye Francoise" by De Monts, and + continued to be so called, as will appear by reference to the early + maps, as that of De Laet, 1633; Charlevoix, 1744; Rouge, 1778. It first + appears distinctly on the carte of Diego Homem of 1558, but without + name. On Cabot's Mappe-Monde, in "Monuments de la Geographie," we find + _rio fondo_, which may represent the Bay of Fundy, and may have + suggested the name adopted by the English, which it still retains. Sir + William Alexander's map, 1624, has Argal's Bay; Moll's map, 1712, has + Fundi Bay; that of the English and French Commissaries, 1755, has Bay + of Fundy, or Argal. + +38. This strait, known by the name Petit Passage, separates Long Island + from Digby Neck. + +39. A place called Little River, on Digby Neck. + +40. Now known as Sandy Cove. + +41. Lescarbot says of this iron mine, and of the silver mine above, that + they were proved not to be abundant. + +42. This was probably near Rossway. + +43. This was clearly Smith Creek or Smelt River, which rises near Annapolis + Basin, or the Port Royal Basin of the French. + +44. He here doubtless refers to North Creek, at the north-eastern extremity + of St. Mary's Bay. + +45. Now Weymouth Harbor, on the south-eastern shore of St. Mary's Bay, at + the mouth of Sissibou River, and directly opposite Sandy Cove, near the + iron mine mentioned above. + +46. The distance across the bay at this point, as here stated, is nearly + accurate. + +47. This is clearly a mistake; the true latitude at the Petit Passage is + 44 deg. 23'. It may here be remarked that Champlain's latitudes are very + inaccurate, often varying more than half a degree; doubtless owing to + the imperfection of the instruments which were employed in taking them. + +48. They had been occupied in this exploration about three weeks, Lescarbot + says a month, but this is an overstatement. By a careful examination of + the text, it will appear that they departed from Port Mouton on the + 19th of May, and that several days after their return, not less than + nine, they were again in St. Mary's Bay, on the 16th of June. They had + been absent, therefore, about twenty-one days. The latitude of Port + Mouton, stated a little below to be 44 deg., is in fact 43 deg. 57'. + +49. This bay, still retaining its ancient appellation, was so named by + Champlain on his first visit. "Ceste baye fut nommee la baye Saincte + Marie."--_Champlain's Voyages_, 1632, Quebec ed., Vol. V. p. 716. + +50. Nicholas Aubry, a young Parisian of good family, "vn certain homme + d'Eglise," as Lescarbot says, probably not long in holy orders, had + undertaken this voyage with De Monts to gratify his desire to see the + New World, though quite against the wishes of his friends, who had sent + in vain to Honfleur to prevent his embarkation. After the search made + by De Monts, with the sounding of trumpets and the discharge of cannon, + they left St. Mary's Bay, having given up all expectation of his + recovery. Some two weeks afterward, an expedition was Sent out to + St. Mary's Bay, conducted by De Champdore, an experienced pilot, with a + mineralogist, to search for silver and iron ore. While Some of the + party were on a fishing excursion, they rescued him, as stated in the + text. The safe return of the young and too venturesome ecclesiastic + gave great relief to De Monts, as Lescarbot says a Protestant was + charged to have killed him, because they quarrelled sometimes about + their religion.--_Vide Histoire de Nouvelle-France_, par Mare + Lescarbot, Paris, 1612, Qvat. Liv. p. 453. + +51. The partridge-berry, Mitchella, a trailing evergreen, bearing scarlet + berries, edible but nearly tasteless, which remain through the winter. + It is peculiar to America, and this is probably the first time it was + noticed by any historical writer. + +52. He was on the western side of Digby Neck, at its southern extremity, + near the Petit Passage on the shore of the Bay of Fundy. + + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +DESCRIPTION OF PORT ROYAL AND THE PECULIARITIES OF THE SAME.--ISLE HAUTE.-- +PORT OF MINES.--BAYE FRANCOISE.-THE RIVER ST. JOHN, AND WHAT WE OBSERVED +BETWEEN THE PORT OF MINES AND THE SAME.--THE ISLAND CALLED BY THE SAVAGES +MANTHANE.--THE RIVER OF THE ETECHEMINS, AND SEVERAL FINE ISLANDS THERE.-- +ST. CROIX ISLAND, AND OTHER NOTEWORTHY OBJECTS ON THIS COAST. + +Some days after, Sieur de Monts decided to go and examine the coasts of +Baye Francoise. For this purpose, he set out from the vessel on the 16th of +May,[53] and we went through the strait of Long Island.[54] Not having +found in St. Mary's Bay any place in which to fortify ourselves except at +the cost of much time, we accordingly resolved to see whether there might +not be a more favorable one in the other bay. Heading north-east six +leagues, there is a cove where vessels can anchor in four, five, six, and +seven fathoms of water. The bottom is sandy. This place is only a kind of +roadstead.[55] Continuing two leagues farther on in the same direction, we +entered one of the finest harbors I had seen along all these coasts, in +which two thousand vessels might lie in security. The entrance is eight +hundred paces broad; then you enter a harbor two leagues long and one +broad, which I have named Port Royal.[56] Three rivers empty into it, one +of which is very large, extending eastward, and called Riviere de +l'Equille,[57] from a little fish of the size of an _esplan?_, which is +caught there in large numbers, as is also the herring, and several other +kinds of fish found in abundance in their season. This river is nearly a +quarter of a league broad at its entrance, where there is an island [58] +perhaps half a league in circuit, and covered with wood like all the rest +of the country, as pines, firs, spruces, birches, aspens, and some oaks, +although the latter are found in small numbers in comparison with the other +kinds. There are two entrances to the above river, one on the north, the +other on the south side of the island. That on the north is the better, and +vessels can there anchor under shelter of the island in five, six, seven, +eight, and nine fathoms. But it is necessary to be on one's guard against +some shallows near the island on the one side, and the main land on the +other, very dangerous, if one does not know the channel. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S DESCRIPTION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +PORT AU MOUTON. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. Place where vessels lie. +_B_. Place where we made our camp. +_C_. A pond. +_D_. An island at the entrance to the harbor, covered with wood. +_E_. A river very shallow. +_F_. A pond. +_G_. A very large brook coming from the pond F. +_H_. Six little islands in the harbor. +_L_. Country, containing only copse and heath of very small size. +_M_. Sea-shore. + +NOTE.--The wanting letter L should probably be placed where the trees are +represented as very small, between the letters B and the island F. + + * * * * * + +We ascended the river some fourteen or fifteen leagues, where the tide +rises, and it is not navigable much farther. It has there a breadth of +sixty paces, and about a fathom and a half of water. The country bordering +the river is filled with numerous oaks, ashes, and other trees. Between the +mouth of the river and the point to which we ascended there are many +meadows, which are flooded at the spring tides, many little streams +traversing them from one side to the other, through which shallops and +boats can go at full tide. This place was the most favorable and agreeable +for a settlement that we had seen. There is another island [59] within the +port, distant nearly two leagues from the former. At this point is another +little stream, extending a considerable distance inland, which we named +Riviere St. Antoine. [60] Its mouth is distant from the end of the Bay of +St. Mary some four leagues through the woods. The remaining river is only a +small stream filled with rocks, which cannot be ascended at all on account +of the small amount of water, and which has been named Rocky Brook. [61] +This place is in latitude [62] 45 deg.; and 17 deg. 8' of the deflection of the +magnetic needle. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S DESCRIPTION OF THE MAP + +PORT ROYAL + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. Our habitation. [Note: On the present site of Lower Granville.] + +_B_. Garden of Sieur de Champlain. +_C_. Road through the woods that Sieur de Poutrincourt had made. +_D_. Island at the mouth of Equille River. +_E_. Entrance to Port Royal, +_F_. Shoals, dry at low tide. +_G_. River St. Antoine. [Note: The stream west of river St. Antoine is the + Jogging River.] +_H_. Place under cultivation for sowing wheat. [Note: The site of the + present town of Annapolis.] +_I_. Mill that Sieur de Poutrincourt had made. +_L_. Meadows overflowed at highest tides. +_M_. Equille River. +_N_. Seacoast of Port Royal. +_O_. Ranges of mountains. +_P_. Island near the river St. Antoine. +_Q_. Rocky Brook. [Footnote: Now called Deep Brook.] +_R_. Another brook. [Note: Morris River.] +_S_. Mill River. [Note: Allen River.] +_T_. Small lake. +_V_. Place where the savages catch herring in the season. +_X_. Trout brook. [Note: Trout Brook is now called Shaefer's Brook, and the + first on the west is Thorne's, and the second Scofield's Brook.] +_Y_. A lane that Sieur de Champlain had made. + + * * * * * + +After having explored this harbor, we set out to advance farther on in Baye +Francoise, and see whether we could not find the copper mine, [63] which +had been discovered the year before. Heading north-east, and sailing eight +or ten leagues along the coast of Port Royal,[64] we crossed a part of the +bay Some five or six leagues in extent, when we arrived at a place which we +called the Cape of Two Bays;[65] and we passed by an island a league +distant therefrom, a league also in circuit, rising up forty or forty-five +fathoms. [66] It is wholly surrounded by great rocks, except in one place +which is sloping, at the foot of which slope there is a pond of salt water, +coming from under a pebbly point, having the form of a spur. The surface of +the island is flat, covered with trees, and containing a fine spring of +water. In this place is a copper mine. Thence we proceeded to a harbor a +league and a half distant, where we supposed the copper mine was, which a +certain Prevert of St. Malo had discovered by aid of the savages of the +country. This port is in latitude 45 deg. 40', and is dry at low tide. [67] In +order to enter it, it is necessary to place beacons, and mark out a +sand-bank at the entrance, which borders a channel that extends along the +main land. Then you enter a bay nearly a league in length, and half a +league in breadth. In some places, the bottom is oozy and sandy, where +vessels may get aground. The sea falls and rises there to the extent of +four or five fathoms. We landed to see whether we could find the mines +which Prevert had reported to us. Having gone about a quarter of a league +along certain mountains, we found none, nor did we recognize any +resemblance to the description of the harbor he had given us. Accordingly, +he had not himself been there, but probably two or three of his men had +been there, guided by some savages, partly by land and partly by little +streams, while he awaited them in his shallop at the mouth of a little +river in the Bay of St. Lawrence.[68] These men, upon their return, +brought him several small pieces of copper, which he showed us when he +returned from his voyage. Nevertheless, we found in this harbor two mines +of what seemed to be copper according to the report of our miner, who +considered it very good, although it was not native copper. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S DESCRIPTION OF THE MAP. + +PORT DES MINES. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. A place where vessels are liable to run aground. +_B_. A Small river. +_C_. A tongue of land composed of Sand. +_D_. A point composed of large pebbles, which is like a mole. +_E_. Location of a copper mine, which is covered by the tide twice a day. +_F_. An island to the rear of the Cape of Mines. [Note: Now called + Spencer's Island. Champlain probably obtained his knowledge of this + island at a subsequent visit. There is a creek extending from near + Spencer's Island between the rocky elevations to Advocate's Harbor, or + nearly so, which Champlain does not appear to have seen, or at least + he does not represent it on his map. This point, thus made an island + by the creek, has an elevation of five hundred feet, at the base of + which was the copper mine which they discovered.--_Vide_ note 67.] +_G_. Roadstead where vessels anchor while waiting for the tide. +_H_. Isle Haute, which is a league and a half from Port of Mines. +_I_. Channel. +_L_. Little River. +_M_. Range of mountains along the coast of the Cape of Mines. + + * * * * * + +The head [69] of the Baye Francoise, which we crossed, is fifteen leagues +inland. All the land which we have seen in coasting along from the little +passage of Long Island is rocky, and there is no place except Port Royal +where vessels can lie in Safety. The land is covered with pines and +birches, and, in my opinion, is not very good. + +On the 20th of May,[70] we set out from the Port of Mines to seek a place +adapted for a permanent stay, in order to lose no time, purposing +afterwards to return, and see if we could discover the mine of pure copper +which Prevert's men had found by aid of the savages. We sailed west two +leagues as far as the cape of the two bays, then north five or six leagues; +and we crossed the other bay,[71] where we thought the copper mine was, of +which we have already spoken: inasmuch as there are there two rivers, [72] +the one coming from the direction of Cape Breton, and the other from Gaspe +or Tregatte, near the great river St. Lawrence. Sailing west some six +leagues, we arrived at a little river,[73] at the mouth of which is rather +a low cape, extending out into the sea; and a short distance inland there +is a mountain,[74] having the shape of a Cardinal's hat. In this place we +found an iron mine. There is anchorage here only for shallops. Four leagues +west south-west is a rocky point [75] extending out a short distance into +the water, where there are strong tides which are very dangerous. Near the +point we saw a cove about half a league in extent, in which we found +another iron mine, also very good. Four leagues farther on is a fine bay +running up into the main land;[76] at the extremity of which there are +three islands and a rock; two of which are a league from the cape towards +the west, and the other is at the mouth of the largest and deepest river we +had yet seen, which we named the river St. John, because it was on this +saint's day that we arrived there.[77] By the savages it is called +Ouygoudy. This river is dangerous, if one does not observe carefully +certain points and rocks on the two sides. It is narrow at its entrance, +and then becomes broader. A certain point being passed, it becomes narrower +again, and forms a kind of fall between two large cliffs, where the water +runs so rapidly that a piece of wood thrown in is drawn under and not seen +again. But by waiting till high tide you can pass this fall very easily. +[78] Then it expands again to the extent of about a league in some places, +where there are three islands. We did not explore it farther up.[79] But +Ralleau, secretary of Sieur de Monts, went there some time after to see a +savage named Secondon, chief of this river, who reported that it was +beautiful, large, and extensive, with many meadows and fine trees, as oaks, +beeches, walnut-trees, and also wild grapevines. The inhabitants of the +country go by this river to Tadoussac, on the great river St. Lawrence, +making but a short portage on the journey. From the river St. John to +Tadoussac is sixty-five leagues.[80] At its mouth, which is in latitude +45 deg. 40', there is an iron mine.[81] + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S DESCRIPTION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +RIVIERE ST. JEHAN. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. Three islands above the falls. [Note: The islands are not close + together as here represented. One is very near the main land on one + shore, and two on the other.] +_B_. Mountains rising up from the main land, two leagues south of the + river. +_C_. The fall in the river. +_D_. Shoals where vessels, when the tide is out, are liable to run aground. +_E_. Cabin where the savages fortify themselves. +_F_. A pebbly point where there is a cross. +_G_. An island at the entrance of the river. [Note: Partridge Island.] +_H_. A Small brook coming from a little pond. [Note: Mill Pond.] +_I_. Arm of the sea dry at low tide. [Note: Marsh Creek, very shallow but + not entirely dry at low tide.] +_L_. Two little rocky islets. [Note: These islets are not now represented + on the charts, and are probably rocks near the shore from which the + soil may have been washed away since 1604.] +_M_. A small pond. +_N_. Two brooks. +_O_. Very dangerous shoals along the coast, which are dry at low tide. +_P_. Way by which the savages carry their canoes in passing the falls. +_Q_. Place for anchoring where the river runs with full current. + + * * * * * + +From the river St. John we went to four islands, on one of which we landed, +and found great numbers of birds called magpies,[82] of which we captured +many small ones, which are as good as pigeons. Sieur de Poutrincourt came +near getting lost here, but he came back to our barque at last, when we had +already gone to search for him about the island, which is three leagues +distant from the main land. Farther west are other islands; among them one +six leagues in length, called by the savages Manthane,[83] south of which +there are among the islands several good harbors for vessels. From the +Magpie Islands we proceeded to a river on the main land called the river of +the Etechemins,[84] a tribe of savages so called in their country. We +passed by so many islands that we could not ascertain their number, which +were very fine. Some were two leagues in extent, others three, others more +or less. All of these islands are in a bay,[85] having, in my estimation, a +circuit of more than fifteen leagues. There are many good places capable of +containing any number of vessels, and abounding in fish in the season, such +as codfish, salmon, bass, herring, halibut, and other kinds in great +numbers. Sailing west-north-west three leagues through the islands, we +entered a river almost half a league in breadth at its mouth, sailing up +which a league or two we found two islands: one very small near the western +bank; and the other in the middle, having a circumference of perhaps eight +or nine hundred paces, with rocky sides three or four fathoms high all +around, except in one small place, where there is a sandy point and clayey +earth adapted for making brick and other useful articles. There is another +place affording a shelter for vessels from eighty to a hundred tons, but it +is dry at low tide. The island is covered with firs, birches, maples, and +oaks. It is by nature very well situated, except in one place, where for +about forty paces it is lower than elsewhere: this, however, is easily +fortified, the banks of the main land being distant on both sides some nine +hundred to a thousand paces. Vessels could pass up the river only at the +mercy of the cannon on this island, and we deemed the location the most +advantageous, not only on account of its situation and good foil, but also +on account of the intercourse which we proposed with the savages of these +coasts and of the interior, as we should be in the midst of them. We hoped +to pacify them in the course of time, and put an end to the wars which they +carry on with one another, so as to derive service from them in future, and +convert them to the Christian faith. This place was named by Sieur de Monts +the Island of St. Croix. [86] Farther on, there is a great bay, in which +are two islands, one high and the other flat; also three rivers, two of +moderate size, one extending towards the east, the other towards the north, +and the third of large size, towards the west. The latter is that of the +Etechemins, of which we spoke before. Two leagues up this there is a +waterfall, around which the savages carry their canoes some five hundred +paces by land, and then re-enter the river. Passing afterwards from the +river a short distance overland, one reaches the rivers Norumbegue and +St. John. But the falls are impassable for vessels, as there are only rocks +and but four or five feet of water.[87] In May and June, so great a number +of herring and bass are caught there that vessels could be loaded with +them. The soil is of the finest sort, and there are fifteen or twenty acres +of cleared land, where Sieur de Monts had some wheat sown, which flourished +finely. The savages come here sometimes five or six weeks during the +fishing Season. All the rest of the country consists of very dense forests. +If the land were cleared up, grain would flourish excellently. This place +is in latitude 45 deg. 20',[88] and 17 deg. 32' of the deflection of the magnetic +needle. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S DESCRIPTION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +ISLE DE SAINTE CROIX. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. A plan of our habitation. +_B_. Gardens. +_C_. Little islet serving as a platform for cannon. [Note: This refers to + the southern end of the island, which was probably separated at high + tide, where a cannon may be seen in position.] +_D_. Platform where cannon were placed. +_E_. The Cemetery. +_F_. The Chapel. +_G_. Rocky shoals about the Island Sainte Croix. +_H_. A little islet. [Note: Little De Monts's Island, Sometimes called + Little Dochet's Island.] +_I_. Place where Sieur de Monts had a water-mill commenced. +_L_. Place where we made our coal. +_M_. Gardens on the western shore. +_N_. Other gardens on the eastern shore. +_O_. Very large and high mountain on the main land. [Note: This "mountain" + is now called Chamcook Hill. Its height is 627 feet. At the northern + end of the island on the right there is an extensive sandy shoal, dry + at low tide, of a triangular shape as formerly, and has apparently + changed very little since the days of Champlain.] +_P_. River of the Etechemins flowing about the Island of St. Croix. + + * * * * * + +ENDNOTES: + +53. For May read June. It could not have been in May, since Champlain Set + out from Port Mouton on his exploring expedition on the 19th of May, + which must have been a month previous to this. + +54. What is now called the Petit Passage, the narrow strait between Long + Island and Digby Neck. + +55. Gulliver's Hole, about two leagues south-west of Digby Strait. + +56. Champlain here names the whole harbor or basin Port Royal, and not the + place of habitation afterward so called. The first settlement was on + the north side of the bay in the present hamlet of Lower Granville, not + as often alleged at Annapolis.--_Vide_ Champlain's engraving or map of + Port Royal. + +57. "Equille." A name, on the coasts between Caen and Havre, of the fish + called lancon at Granville and St. Malo, a kind of malacopterygious + fish living on sandy shores and hiding in the sand at low tide.-- + _Littre_. A species of sand eel. This stream is now known as the + Annapolis River. Lescarbot calls it Riviere du Dauphin. + +58. This island is situated at the point where the Annapolis River flows + into the bay, or about nine miles from Digby, straight. Champlain on + his map gives it no name, but Lescarbot calls it Biencourville. It is + now called Goat Island. + +59. Lescarbot calls it Claudiane. It is now known as Bear Island. It was + Sometimes called Ile d'Hebert, and likewise Imbert Island. Laverdiere + suggests that the present name is derived from the French pronunciation + of the last syllable of Imbert. + +60. At present known as Bear River; Lescarbot has it Hebert, and + Charlevoix, Imbert. + +61. On modern maps called Moose River, and sometimes Deep Brook. It is a + few miles east of Bear River. + +62. The latitude is here overstated: it should be 44 deg. 39' 30". + +63. On the preceding year, M. Prevert of St. Malo had made a glowing report + ostensively based on his own observations and information which he had + obtained from the Indians, in regard to certain mines alleged to exist + on the coast directly South of Northumberland Strait, and about the + head of the Bay of Fundy. It was this report of Prevert that induced + the present search. + +64. Along the Bay of Fundy nearly parallel to the basin of Port Royal would + better express the author's meaning. + +65. Cape Chignecto, the point where the Bay of Fundy is bifurcated; the + northern arm forming Chignecto Bay, and the southern, the Bay of Mines + or Minas Basin. + +66. Isle Haute, or high island.--_Vide Charlevoix's Map_. On Some maps this + name has been strangely perverted into Isle Holt, Isle Har, &c. Its + height is 320 feet. + +67. This was Advocate's Harbor. Its distance from Cape Chignecto is greater + than that stated in the text. Further on, Champlain calls it two + leagues, which is nearly correct. Its latitude is about 45 deg. 20'. By + comparing the Admiralty charts and Champlain's map of this harbor, it + will be seen that important changes have taken place since 1604. The + tongue of land extending in a south-easterly direction, covered with + trees and shrubbery, which Champlain calls a sand-bank, has entirely + disappeared. The ordinary tides rise here from thirty-three to + thirty-nine feet, and on a sandy shore could hardly fail to produce + important changes. + +68. According to the Abbe Laverdiere, the lower part of the Gulf was + sometimes called the Bay of St. Lawrence. + +69. They had just crossed the Bay of Mines. From the place where they + crossed it to its head it is not far from fifteen leagues, and it is + about the same distance to Port Royal, from which he may here estimate + the distance inland. + +70. Read June.--_Vide antea_, note 53. + +71. Chignecto Bay. Charlevoix has Chignitou _ou Beau Bassin_. On De Laet's + Map of 1633, on Jacob von Meur's of 1673, and Homenn's of 1729, we have + B. de Gennes. The Cape of Two Bays was Cape Chignecto. + +72. The rivers are the Cumberland Basin with its tributaries coming from + the east, and the Petitcoudiac (_petit_ and _coude_, little elbow, from + the angle formed by the river at Moncton, called the Bend), which flows + into Shepody Bay coming from the north or the direction of Gaspe. + Champlain mentions all these particulars, probably as answering to the + description given to them by M. Prevert of the place where copper mines + could be found. + +73. Quaco River, at the mouth of which the water is shallow: the low cape + extending out into the sea is that on which Quaco Light now stands, + which reaches out quarter of a mile, and is comparatively low. The + shore from Goose River, near where they made the coast, is very high, + measuring at different points 783, 735, 650, 400, 300, 500, and 380 + feet, while the "low cape" is only 250 feet, and near it on the west is + an elevation of 400 feet. It would be properly represented as "rather a + low cape" in contradistinction to the neighboring coast. Iron and + manganese are found here, and the latter has been mined to some extent, + but is now discontinued, as the expense is too great for the present + times. + +74. This mountain is an elevation, eight or ten miles inland from Quaco, + which may be seen by vessels coasting along from St. Martin's Head to + St. John: it is indicated on the charts as Mt. Theobald, and bears a + striking resemblance, as Champlain suggests, to the _chapeau de + Cardinal_. + +75. McCoy's Head, four leagues west of Quaco: the "cove" may be that on the + east into which Gardner's Creek flows, or that on the west at the mouth + of Emmerson's Creek. + +76. The Bay of St. John, which is four leagues south-west of McCoy's + Head. The islands mentioned are Partridge Island at the mouth of the + harbor, and two smaller ones farther west, one Meogenes, and the other + Shag rock or some unimportant islet in its vicinity. The rock mentioned + by Champlain is that on which Spit Beacon Light now stands. + +77. The festival of St. John the Baptist occurs on the 24th of June; and, + arriving on that day, they gave the name of St. John to the river, + which has been appropriately given also to the city at its mouth, now + the metropolis of the province of New Brunswick. + +78. Champlain was under a missapprehension about passing the fall at the + mouth of the St. John at high tide. It can in fact only be passed at + about half tide. The waters of the river at low tide are about twelve + feet higher than the waters of the sea. At high tide, the waters of the + sea are about five feet higher than the waters of the river. + Consequently, at low tide there is a fall outward, and at high tide + there is a fall inward, at neither of which times can the fall be + passed. The only time for passing the fall is when the waters of the + sea are on a level with the waters of the river. This occurs twice + every tide, at the level point at the flood and likewise at the ebb. + The period for passing lasts about fifteen or twenty minutes, and of + course occurs four times a day. Vessels assemble in considerable + numbers above and below to embrace the opportunity of passing at the + favoring moment. There are periods, however, when the river is swollen + by rains and melting snow, at which the tides do not rise as high as + the river, and consequently there is a constant fall outward, and + vessels cannot pass until the high water subsides. + +79. They ascended the river only a short distance into the large bay just + above the falls, near which are the three islands mentioned in the + text. + +80. The distance from the mouth of the river St. John to Tadoussac in a + direct line is about sixty-five leagues. But by the winding course of + the St. John it would be very much greater. + +81. Champlain's latitude is inexact. St. John's Harbor is 45 deg. 16'. + +82. _Margos_, magpies. The four islands which Champlain named the Magpies + are now called the Wolves, and are near the mouth of Passamaquoddy + Bay. Charlevoix has _Oiseaux_, the Birds. + +83. Manan. Known as the Grand Manan in contradistinction to the Petit + Manan, a small island still further west. It is about fourteen or + fifteen miles long, and about six in its greatest width. On the south + and eastern side are Long Island, Great Duck, Ross, Cheyne, and White + Head Islands, among which good harborage may be found. The name, as + appears in the text, is of Indian origin. It is Sometimes Spelled + Menarse, but that in the text prevails. + +84. The St. Croix River, sometimes called the Scoudic. + +85. Passsmaquoddy Bay. On Gastaldo's map of 1550 called Angoulesme. On + Rouge's "Atlas Ameriquain," 1778, it is written Passamacadie. + +86. The Holy Cross, _Saincte Croix_, This name was suggested by the + circumstance that, a few miles above the island, two streams flow into + the main channel of the river at the same place, one from the east and + the other from the west, while a bay makes up between them, presenting + the appearance of a cross. + + "Et d'autant qu'a deux lieues au dessus il y a des ruisseaux qui + viennent comme en croix de decharger dans ce large bras de mer, cette + ile de la retraite des Francois fut appelee SAINCTE CROIX."--_His. + Nouvelle France_ par Lescarbot, Paris. 1612, Qvat Liv. pp. 461, 462. + + It is now called De Monts's Island. It has been called Dochet's Island + and Neutral Island, but there is great appropriateness in calling it + after its first occupant and proprietor, and in honor of him it has + been so named with suitable ceremonies.--_Vide Godfrey's Centennial + Discourse_, Bangor, 1870, p. 20. The United States maintain a light + upon the island, which is seventy-one feet above the level of the sea, + and is visible twelve nautical miles. The island itself is moderately + high, and in the widest part is one hundred and eighty paces or about + five hundred and forty feet. The area is probably not more than six or + seven acres, although it has been estimated at twice that. It may have + been diminished in some slight degree since the time of Champlain by + the action of the waves, but probably very little. On the southern + extremity of the island where De Monts placed his cannon, about + twenty-five years ago a workman in excavating threw out five small + cannon-balls, one of which was obtained by Peter E. Vose, Esq., of + Dennysville, Me., who then resided near the island, and was conversant + with all the circumstances of the discovery. They were about a foot and + a half below the surface, and the workman was excavating for another + purpose, and knew nothing of the history of the island. At our + solicitation, the ball belonging to Mr. Vose has recently been + presented to the New England Historic Genealogical Society, of which he + is a member. It is iron, perfectly round, two and a quarter inches in + diameter, and weighs 22 oz. avoirdupois. There can be no reasonable + doubt that these balls are relics of the little French colony of 1604, + and probably the only memorial of the kind now in existence. + +87. The description in the text of the environs of the Island of St. Croix + is entirely accurate. Some distance above, and in view from the island, + is the fork, or Divide, as it is called. Here is a meeting of the + waters of Warwig Creek from the east, Oak Bay from the north, and the + river of the Etechemins, now called the St. Croix, from the west. These + are the three rivers mentioned by Champlain, Oak Bay being considered + as one of them, in which may be seen the two islands mentioned in the + text, one high and the other low. A little above Calais is the + waterfall, around which the Indians carried their bark canoes, when on + their journey up the river through the Scoudic lakes, from which by + land they reached the river St. John on the east, or, on the west, + passing through the Mettawamkeag, they reached the Norumbegue, or + Penobscot River. + +88. The latitude of the Island of St. Croix is 45 deg. 7' 43". + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +SIEUR DE MONTS, FINDING NO OTHER PLACE BETTER ADAPTED FOR A PERMANENT +SETTLEMENT THAN THE ISLAND OF ST. CROIX, FORTIFIES IT AND BUILDS +DWELLINGS.--RETURN OF THE VESSELS TO FRANCE, AND OF RALLEAU, SECRETARY OF +SIEUR DE MONTS, FOR THE SAKE OF ARRANGING SOME BUSINESS AFFAIRS. + + +Not finding any more suitable place than this island, we commenced making a +barricade on a little islet a short distance from the main island, which +served as a station for placing our cannon. All worked so energetically +that in a little while it was put in a state of defence, although the +mosquitoes (which are little flies) annoyed us excessively in our work. +For there were several of our men whose faces were so swollen by their +bites that they could scarcely see. The barricade being finished, Sieur de +Monts sent his barque to notify the rest of our party, who were with our +vessel in the bay of St. Mary, to come to St. Croix. This was promptly +done, and while awaiting them we spent our time very pleasantly. + +Some days after, our vessels having arrived and anchored, all disembarked. +Then, without losing time, Sieur de Monts proceeded to employ the workmen +in building houses for our abode, and allowed me to determine the +arrangement of our settlement. After Sieur de Monts had determined the +place for the storehouse, which is nine fathoms long, three wide, and +twelve feet high, he adopted the plan for his own house, which he had +promptly built by good workmen, and then assigned to each one his location. +Straightway, the men began to gather together by fives and sixes, each +according to his desire. Then all set to work to clear up the island, to go +to the woods, to make the frame work, to carry earth and other things +necessary for the buildings. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S DESCRIPTION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +HABITATION DE L'ISLE STE. CROIX. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. Dwelling of Sieur de Monts. +_B_. Public building where we spent our time when it rained. +_C_. The storehouse. +_D_. Dwelling of the guard. +_E_. The blacksmith shop. +_F_. Dwelling of the carpenters. +_G_. The well. +_H_. The oven where the bread was made. +_I_. Kitchen. +_L_. Gardens. +_M_. Other gardens. +_N_. Place in the centre where a tree stands. +_O_. Palisade. +_P_. Dwellings of the Sieurs d'Orville, Champlain, and Champdore. +_Q_. Dwelling of Sieur Boulay, and other artisans. +_R_. Dwelling where the Sieurs de Genestou, Sourin, and other artisans + lived. +_T_. Dwelling of the Sieurs de Beaumont, la Motte Bourioli, and Fougeray. +_V_. Dwelling of our curate. +_X_. Other gardens. +_Y_. The river surrounding the island. + + * * * * * + +While we were building our houses, Sieur de Monts despatched Captain +Fouques in the vessel of Rossignol, [89] to find Pont Grave at Canseau, in +order to obtain for our settlement what supplies remained. + +Some time after he had set out, there arrived a small barque of eight tons, +in which was Du Glas of Honfleur, pilot of Pont Grave's vessel, bringing +the Basque ship-masters, who had been captured by the above Pont Grave [90] +while engaged in the fur-trade, as we have stated. Sieur de Monts received +them civilly, and sent them back by the above Du Glas to Pont Grave, with +orders for him to take the vessels he had captured to Rochelle, in order +that justice might be done. Meanwhile, work on the houses went on +vigorously and without cessation; the carpenters engaged on the storehouse +and dwelling of Sieur de Monts, and the others each on his own house, as I +was on mine, which I built with the assistance of some servants belonging +to Sieur d'Orville and myself. It was forthwith completed, and Sieur de +Monts lodged in it until his own was finished. An oven was also made, and a +handmill for grinding our wheat, the working of which involved much trouble +and labor to the most of us, since it was a toilsome operation. Some +gardens were afterwards laid out, on the main land as well as on the +island. Here many kinds of seeds were planted, which flourished very well +on the main land, but not on the island, since there was only sand here, +and the whole were burned up when the sun shone, although special pains +were taken to water them. + +Some days after, Sieur de Monts determined to ascertain where the mine of +pure copper was which we had searched for so much. With this object in +view, he despatched me together with a savage named Messamoueet, who +asserted that he knew the place well. I set out in a small barque of five +or six tons, with nine sailors. Some eight leagues from the island, towards +the river St. John, we found a mine of copper which was not pure, yet good +according to the report of the miner, who said that it would yield eighteen +per cent. Farther on we found others inferior to this. When we reached the +place where we supposed that was which we were hunting for, the savage +could not find it, so that it was necessary to come back, leaving the +search for another time. + +Upon my return from this trip. Sieur de Monts resolved to send his vessels +back to France, and also Sieur de Poutrincourt, who had come only for his +pleasure, and to explore countries and places suitable for a colony, which +he desired to found; for which reason he asked Sieur de Monts for Port +Royal, which he gave him in accordance with the power and directions he had +received from the king. [91] He sent back also Ralleau, his secretary, to +arrange some matters concerning the voyage. They set out from the Island of +St. Croix the last day of August, 1604. + +ENDNOTES: + +89. This was the vessel taken from Captain Rossignol and confiscated.-- + _Vide antea_, pp. 10, 12; also note 26. + +90. Champlain and others often write only Pont for Pont Grave. Lescarbot + says Grave was his surname.--_Vide Histoire de la Nou. Fran_., Paris, + 1612, Qvat. Liv. p. 501. To prevent any confusion, we write it Pont + Grave in all cases. + +91. De Monts's charter provided for the distribution of lands to colonists. + This gift to De Poutrincourt was confirmed afterwards by the king. We + may here remark that there is the usual discrepancy in the orthography + of this name. Lescarbot, De Laet, and Charlevoix write Poutrincourt. In + his Latin epitaph, _vide Murdoch's Nova Scotia_, Vol. I. p. 59, it is + Potrincurtius, while Champlain has Poitrincourt. In Poutrincourt's + letter to the Roman Pontiff, Paul V., written in Latin, he says, _Ego + Johannes de Biencour, vulgo De Povtrincovr a vitae religionis amator et + attestor perpetuus_, etc. This must be conclusive for Poutrincourt as + the proper orthography.--_Vide His. Nov. Fra._, par Lescarbot, Paris, + 1612, p. 612. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +OF THE COAST, INHABITANTS, AND RIVER OF NORUMBEGUE, AND OF ALL THAT +OCCURRED DURING THE EXPLORATION OF THE LATTER. + + +After the departure of the vessels, Sieur de Monts, without losing time, +decided to send persons to make discoveries along the coast of Norumbegue; +and he intrusted me with this work, which I found very agreeable. + +In order to execute this commission, I set out from St. Croix on the 2d of +September with a patache of seventeen or eighteen tons, twelve sailors, and +two savages, to serve us as guides to the places with which they were +acquainted. The same day we found the vessels where Sieur de Poutrincourt +was, which were anchored at the mouth of the river St. Croix in consequence +of bad weather, which place we could not leave before the 5th of the month. +Having gone two or three leagues seaward, so dense a fog arose that we at +once lost sight of their vessels. Continuing our course along the coast, we +made the same day some twenty-five leagues, and passed by a large number of +islands, banks, reefs, and rocks, which in places extend more than four +leagues out to Sea. We called the islands the Ranges, most of which are +covered with pines, firs, and other trees of an inferior sort. Among these +islands are many fine harbors, but undesirable for a permanent settlement. +The same day we passed also near to an island about four or five leagues +long, in the neighborhood of which we just escaped being lost on a little +rock on a level with the water, which made an opening in our barque near +the keel. From this island to the main land on the north, the distance is +less than a hundred paces. It is very high, and notched in places, so that +there is the appearance to one at sea, as of seven or eight mountains +extending along near each other. The summit of the most of them is +destitute of trees, as there are only rocks on them. The woods consist of +pines, firs, and birches only. I named it Isle des Monts Deserts.[92] The +latitude is 44 deg. 30'. + +The next day, the 6th of the month, we sailed two leagues, and perceived a +smoke in a cove at the foot of the mountains above mentioned. We saw two +canoes rowed by savages, which came within musket range to observe us. I +sent our two savages in a boat to assure them of our friendship. Their fear +of us made them turn back. On the morning of the next day, they came +alongside of our barque and talked with our savages. I ordered some +biscuit, tobacco, and other trifles to be given them. These savages had +come beaver-hunting and to catch fish, some of which they gave us. Having +made an alliance with them, they guided us to their river of Pentegoueet, +[93] so called by them, where they told us was their captain, named +Bessabez, chief of this river. I think this river is that which several +pilots and historians call Norumbegue, [94] and which most have described +as large and extensive, with very many islands, its mouth being in latitude +43 deg., 43 deg. 30', according to others in 44 deg., more or less. With regard to the +deflection, I have neither read, nor heard any one say any thing. It is +related also that there is a large, thickly settled town of savages, who +are adroit and skillful, and who have cotton yarn. I am confident that most +of those who mention it have not seen it, and speak of it because they have +heard persons say so, who knew no more about it than they themselves. I am +ready to believe that some may have seen the mouth of it, because there are +in reality many islands, and it is, as they say, in latitude 44 deg. at its +entrance. But that any one has ever entered it there is no evidence, for +then they would have described it in another manner, in order to relieve +the minds of many of this doubt. + +I will accordingly relate truly what I explored and saw, from the beginning +as far as I went. + +In the first place, there are at its entrance several islands distant ten +or twelve leagues from the main land, which are in latitude 44 deg., and 18 deg. +40' of the deflection of the magnetic needle. The Isle des Monts Deserts +forms one of the extremities of the mouth, on the east; the other is low +land, called by the savages Bedabedec, [95] to the west of the former, the +two being distant from each other nine or ten leagues. Almost midway +between these, out in the ocean, there is another island very high and +conspicuous, which on this account I have named Isle Haute. [96] All around +there is a vast number of varying extent and breadth, but the largest is +that of the Monts Deserts. Fishing as also hunting are very good here; the +fish are of various kinds. Some two or three leagues from the point of +Bedabedec, as you coast northward along the main land which extends up this +river, there are very high elevations of land, which in fair weather are +seen twelve or fifteen leagues out at Sea. [97] Passing to the South of the +Isle Haute, and coasting along the same for a quarter of a league, where +there are some reefs out of water, and heading to the west until you open +all the mountains northward of this island, you can be sure that, by +keeping in sight the eight or nine peaks of the Monts Deserts and +Bedabedec, you will cross the river Norumbegue; and in order to enter it +you must keep to the north, that is, towards the highest mountains of +Bedabedec, where you will see no islands before you, and can enter, sure of +having water enough, although you see a great many breakers, islands, and +rocks to the east and west of you. For greater security, one should keep +the sounding lead in hand. And my observations lead me to conclude that one +cannot enter this river in any other place except in small vessels or +shallops. For, as I stated above, there are numerous islands, rocks, +shoals, banks, and breakers on all sides, so that it is marvellous to +behold. + +Now to resume our course: as one enters the river, there are beautiful +islands, which are very pleasant and contain fine meadows. We proceeded to +a place to which the savages guided us, where the river is not more than an +eighth of a league broad, and at a distance of some two hundred paces from +the western shore there is a rock on a level with the water, of a dangerous +character.[98] From here to the Isle Haute, it is fifteen leagues. From +this narrow place, where there is the least breadth that we had found, +after sailing some seven or eight leagues, we came to a little river near +which it was necessary to anchor, as we saw before us a great many rocks +which are uncovered at low tide, and since also, if we had desired to sail +farther, we could have gone scarcely half a league, in consequence of a +fall of water there coming down a slope of seven or eight feet, which I saw +as I went there in a canoe with our savages; and we found only water enough +for a canoe. But excepting the fall, which is some two hundred paces broad, +the river is beautiful, and unobstructed up to the place where we had +anchored. I landed to view the country, and, going on a-hunting excursion, +found it very pleasant so far as I went. The oaks here appear as if they +were planted for ornament. I saw only a few firs, but numerous pines on one +side of the river; on the other only oaks, and some copse wood which +extends far into the interior.[99] And I will state that from the entrance +to where we went, about twenty-five leagues, we saw no town, nor village, +nor the appearance of there having been one, but one or two cabins of the +savages without inhabitants. These were made in the same way as those of +the Souriquois, being covered with the bark of trees. So far as we could +judge, the savages on this river are few in number, and are called +Etechemins. Moreover, they only come to the islands, and that only during +some months in summer for fish and game, of which there is a great +quantity. They are a people who have no fixed abode, so far as I could +observe and learn from them. For they spend the winter now in one place and +now in another, according as they find the best hunting, by which they live +when urged by their daily needs, without laying up any thing for times of +scarcity, which are sometimes severe. + +Now this river must of necessity be the Norumbegue; for, having coasted +along past it as far as the 41 deg. of latitude, we have found no other on the +parallel above mentioned, except that of the Quinibequy, which is almost in +the same latitude, but not of great extent. Moreover, there cannot be in +any other place a river extending far into the interior of the country, +since the great river St. Lawrence washes the coast of La Cadie and +Norumbegue, and the distance from one to the other by land is not more than +forty-five leagues, or sixty at the widest point, as can be seen on my +geographical map. + +Now I will drop this discussion to return to the savages who had conducted +me to the falls of the river Norumbegue, who went to notify Bessabez, their +chief, and other savages, who in turn proceeded to another little river to +inform their own, named Cabahis, and give him notice of our arrival. + +The 16th of the month there came to us some thirty savages on assurances +given them by those who had served us as guides. There came also to us the +same day the above named Bessabez with six canoes. As soon as the savages +who were on land saw him coming, they all began to sing, dance, and jump, +until he had landed. Afterwards, they all seated themselves in a circle on +the ground, as is their custom, when they wish to celebrate a festivity, or +an harangue is to be made. Cabahis, the other chief, arrived also a little +later with twenty or thirty of his companions, who withdrew one side and +enjoyed greatly seeing us, as it was the first time they had seen +Christians. A little while after, I went on shore with two of my companions +and two of our savages who served as interpreters. I directed the men in +our barque to approach near the savages, and hold their arms in readiness +to do their duty in case they noticed any movement of these people against +us. Bessabez, seeing us on land, bade us sit down, and began to smoke with +his companions, as they usually do before an address. They presented us +with venison and game. + +I directed our interpreter to say to our savages that they should cause +Bessabez, Cabahis, and their companions to understand that Sieur de Monts +had sent me to them to see them, and also their country, and that he +desired to preserve friendship with them and to reconcile them with their +enemies, the Souriquois and Canadians, and moreover that he desired to +inhabit their country and show them how to cultivate it, in order that they +might not continue to lead so miserable a life as they were doing, and some +other words on the same subject. This our savages interpreted to them, at +which they signified their great satisfaction, saying that no greater good +could come to them than to have our friendship, and that they desired to +live in peace with their enemies, and that we should dwell in their land, +in order that they might in future more than ever before engage in hunting +beavers, and give us a part of them in return for our providing them with +things which they wanted. After he had finished his discourse, I presented +them with hatchets, paternosters, caps, knives, and other little +knick-knacks, when we separated from each other. All the rest of this day +and the following night, until break of day, they did nothing but dance, +sing, and make merry, after which we traded for a certain number of +beavers. Then each party returned, Bessabez with his companions on the one +side, and we on the other, highly pleased at having made the acquaintance +of this people. + +The 17th of the month I took the altitude, [100] and found the latitude 45 deg. +25'. This done, we set out for another river called Quinibequy, distant +from this place thirty-five leagues, and nearly twenty from Bedabedec. This +nation of savages of Quinibequy are called Etechemins, as well as those of +Norumbegue. + +The 18th of the month we passed near a small river where Cabahis was, who +came with us in our barque some twelve leagues; and having asked him whence +came the river Norumbegue, he told me that it passes the fall which I +mentioned above, and that one journeying some distance on it enters a lake +by way of which they come to the river of St. Croix, by going some distance +over land, and then entering the river of the Etechemins. Moreover, another +river enters the lake, along which they proceed some days, and afterwards +enter another lake and pass through the midst of it. Reaching the end of +it, they make again a land journey of some distance, and then enter another +little river, which has its mouth a league from Quebec, which is on the +great river St. Lawrence. [101] All these people of Norumbegue are very +swarthy, dressed in beaver-skins and other furs, like the Canadian and +Souriquois savages, and they have the same mode of life. + +The 20th of the month we sailed along the western coast, and passed the +mountains of Bedabedec, [102] when we anchored. The same day we explored +the entrance to the river, where large vessels can approach; but there are +inside some reefs, to avoid which one must advance with sounding lead in +hand. Our savages left us, as they did not wish to go to Quinibequy, for +the savages of that place are great enemies to them. We sailed some eight +leagues along the western coast to an island [103] ten leagues distant from +Quinibequy, where we were obliged to put in on account of bad weather and +contrary wind. At one point in our course, we passed a large number of +islands and breakers extending some leagues out to sea, and very dangerous. +And in view of the bad weather, which was so unfavorable to us, we did not +sail more than three or four leagues farther. All these islands and coasts +are covered with extensive woods, of the same sort as that which I have +reported above as existing on the other coasts. And in consideration of the +small quantity of provisions which we had, we resolved to return to our +settlement and wait until the following year, when we hoped to return and +explore more extensively. We accordingly set out on our return on the 23d +of September, and arrived at our settlement on the 2d of October following. + +The above is an exact statement of all that I have observed respecting not +only the coasts and people, but also the river of Norumbegue; and there are +none of the marvels there which some persons have described. I am of +opinion that this region is as disagreeable in winter as that of our +settlement, in which we were greatly deceived. [104] + +ENDNOTES: + +92. The natives called this island Pemetiq. _Isle que les Saunages + appellent Pemetiq.--Vide Relation de la Nouvelle-France_, par F. Biard. + 1616. Relations des Jesuites, Quebec ed. 1858. p. 44. When the attempt + was made in 1613 to plant a colony there by the Marchioness de + Guercheville, the settlement was named St. Sauveur. This island was + also by the English called Mount Mansell. But the name given to it by + Champlain has prevailed, and still adheres to it. + + The description here given of the barrenness of the island clearly + suggests the origin of the name. Desert should therefore be pronounced + with the accent on the first syllable. The latitude of the most + northern limit of the island is 44 deg. 24'. + +93. Penobscot. The name of this river has been variously written Pentagoet, + Pentagwet, Pemptegoet, Pentagovett, Penobskeag, Penaubsket, and in + various other ways. The English began early to write it Penobscot. It + is a word of Indian origin, and different meanings have been assigned + to it by those who have undertaken to interpret the language from which + it is derived. + +94. The Abbe Laverdiere is of the opinion that the river Norumbegue was + identical with the Bay of Fundy. His only authority is Jean Alfonse, + the chief pilot of Roberval in 1541-42. Alfonse says; "Beyond the cape + of Noroveregue descends the river of the said Noroveregue, which is + about twenty-five leagues from the cape. The said river is more than + forty leagues broad at its mouth, and extends this width inward well + thirty or forty leagues, and is all full of islands which enter ten or + twelve leagues into the sea, and it is very dangerous with rocks and + reefs." If the cape of Norumbegue is the present Cape Sable, as it is + supposed to be, by coasting along the shores of Nova Scotia from that + cape in a north-westerly direction a little more than twenty leagues, + we shall reach St. Mary's Bay, which may be regarded as the beginning + of the Bay of Fundy, and from that point in a straight line to the + mouth of the Penobscot the distance is more than forty leagues, which + was the breadth of the Norumbegue at its mouth, according to the + statement of Alfonse. The Abbe Laverdiere is not quite correct in + saying that the river Norumbegue is the same as the Bay of Fundy. It + includes, according to Alfonse, who is not altogether consistent with + himself, not only the Bay of Fundy, but likewise the Penobscot River + and the bay of the same name, with its numerous islands. Alfonse left a + drawing or map of this region in his Cosmography, which Laverdiere had + not probably seen, on which the Bay of Fundy and the Penobscot are + correctly laid down, and the latter is designated the "_Riviere de + Norvebergue_." It is therefore obvious, if this map can be relied upon, + that the river of Norumbegue was identical, not with the Bay of Fundy, + but with the Penobscot, in the opinion of Alfonse, in common with the + "plusieurs pilottes et historiens" referred to by Champlain.--_Vide + copy of the Chart from the MS. Cosmography of Juan Alfonse_ in + Bibliotheque Nationale, Paris, in Mr. Murphy's Voyage of Verrazzano, + New York, 1875. + +95. An indefinite region about Rockland and Camden, on the western bank of + the Penobscot near its mouth, appears to have been the domain of the + Indian chief, Bessabez, and was denominated Bedabedec. The Camden Hills + were called the mountains of Bedabedec, and Owl's Head was called + Bedabedec Point. + +96. Isle Haute, _high island_, which name it still retains. Champlain wrote + it on his map, 1632, "Isle Haulte." It has been anglicized by some into + Isle Holt. It is nearly six miles long, and has an average width of + over two miles, and is the highest land in its vicinity, reaching at + its highest point four hundred feet above the level of the sea. + +97. Camden Hills or Mountains. They are five or six in number, from 900 to + 1,500 feet high, and maybe seen, it is said, twenty leagues at sea. The + more prominent are Mt. Batty, Mt. Pleasant, and Mt. Hosmer, or Ragged + Mountain. They are Sometimes called the Megunticook Range. Colonel + Benjamin Church denominates them "Mathebestuck's Hills,"--_Vide + Church's History of King Philip's War_, Newport, 1772, p. 143. Captain + John Smith calls them the mountains of Penobscot, "against whose feet + doth beat the sea." which, he adds, "you may well see sixteen or + eighteen leagues from their situation." + +98. This narrow place in the river is just above Castine, where Cape + Jellison stretches out towards the east, at the head of the bay, and at + the mouth of the river. At the extremity of the cape is Fort Point, so + called from Fort Pownall, erected there in 1759, a step rocky elevation + of about eighty feet in height. Before the erection of the fort by + Governor Pownall, it was called Wafaumkeag Point.--_Vide Pownall's + Journal_, Col. Me. His. Soc., Vol. V. p. 385. The "rock" alluded to by + Champlain is Fort Point Ledge, bare at half tide, south-east by east + from the Point, and distant over half a mile. Champlain's distances + here are somewhat overestimated. + +99. The terminus of this exploration of the Penobscot was near the present + site of the city of Bangor. The small river near the mouth of which + they anchored was the Kenduskeag. The falls which Champlain visited + with the Indians in a canoe are those a short distance above the + city. The sentence, a few lines back, beginning "But excepting this + fall" is complicated, and not quite logical, but the author evidently + means to describe the river from its mouth to the place of their + anchorage at Bangor. + +100. The interview with the Indians on the 16th, and the taking of the + altitude on the 17th, must have occurred before the party left their + anchorage at Bangor with the purpose, but which they did not + accomplish that year, of visiting the Kennebec. This may be inferred + from Champlain's statement that the Kennebec was thirty-five leagues + distant from the place where they then were, and nearly twenty leagues + distant from Bedabedec. Consequently, they were fifteen leagues above + Bedabedec, which was situated near the mouth of the river. The + latitude, which they obtained from their observations, was far from + correct: it should be 44 deg. 46'. + +101. The Indian chief Cabahis here points out two trails, the one leading + to the French habitation just established on the Island of St. Croix, + the other to Quebec; by the former, passing up the Penobscot from the + present site of Bangor, entering the Matawamkeag, keeping to the east + in their light bark canoes to Lake Boscanhegan, and from there passing + by land to the stream then known as the river of the Etechemins, now + called the Scoudic or St. Croix. The expression "by which they come to + the river of St. Croix" is explanatory: it has no reference to the + name of the river, but means simply that the trail leads to the river + in which was the island of St. Croix. This river had not then been + named St. Croix, but had been called by them the river of the + Etechemins.--_Vide antea_, p. 31. + + The other trail led up the north branch of the Penobscot, passing + through Lake Pemadumcook, and then on through Lake Chefuncook, finally + reaching the source of this stream which is near that of the + Chaudiere, which latter flows into the St. Lawrence, near Quebec. It + would seem from the text that Champlain supposed that the Penobscot + flowed from a lake into which streams flowed from both the objective + points, viz. St. Croix and Quebec: but this was a mistake not at all + unnatural, as he had never been over the ground, and obtained his + information from the Indians, whose language he imperfectly + understood. + +102. Bedabedec is an Indian word, signifying cape of the waters, and was + plainly the point known as Owl's Head. It gave name to the Camden + Mountains also. _Vide antea_, note 95. + +103. Mosquito and Metinic Islands are each about ten leagues east of the + Kennebec. As the party went but four leagues further, the voyage must + have terminated in Muscongus Bay. + +104. An idle story had been circulated, and even found a place on the pages + of sober history, that on the Penobscot, or Norumbegue, as it was then + called, there existed a fair town, a populous city, with the + accessories of luxury and wealth. Champlain here takes pains to show, + in the fullest manner, that this story was a baseless dream of fancy, + and utterly without foundation. Of it Lescarbot naively says, "If this + beautiful town hath ever existed in nature, I would fain know who hath + pulled it down, for there are now only a few scattered wigwams made of + poles covered with the bark of trees and the skins of wild beasts." + There is no evidence, and no probability, that this river had been + navigated by Europeans anterior to this exploration of Champlain. The + existence of the bay and the river had been noted long before. They + are indicated on the map of Ribero in 1529. Rio de Gamas and Rio + Grande appear on early maps as names of this river, but are soon + displaced for Norumbega, a name which was sometimes extended to a wide + range of territory on both sides of the Penobscot. On the Mappe-Monde + of 1543-47, issued by the late M. Jomard, it is denominated + Auorobagra, evidently intended for Norumbega. Thevet, who visited it, + or sailed along its mouth in 1556, speaks of it as Norumbegue. It is + alleged that the aborigines called it Agguncia. According to Jean + Alfonse, it was discovered by the Portuguese and Spaniards.--_Vide + His. de la N. France_, par M. Lescarbot, Paris, 1612, Qvat. Liv. + p. 495. The orthography of this name is various among early writers, + but Norumbegue is adopted by the most approved modern authors. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +OF THE MAL DE LA TERRE, A VERY DESPERATE MALADY.--HOW THE SAVAGES, MEN AND +WOMEN, SPEND THEIR TIME IN WINTER.--AND ALL THAT OCCURRED AT THE SETTLEMENT +WHILE WE WERE PASSING THE WINTER. + +When we arrived at the Island of St. Croix, each one had finished his place +of abode. Winter came upon us sooner than we expected, and prevented us +from doing many things which we had proposed. Nevertheless, Sieur de Monts +did not fail to have some gardens made on the island. Many began to clear +up the ground, each his own. I also did so with mine, which was very large, +where I planted a quantity of foods, as also did the others who had any, +and they came up very well. But since the island was all sandy, every thing +dried up almost as soon as the Sun shone upon it, and we had no water for +irrigation except from the rain, which was infrequent. + +Sieur de Monts caused also clearings to be made on the main land for making +gardens, and at the falls three leagues from our Settlement he had work +done and some wheat sown, which came up very well and ripened. Around our +habitation there is, at low tide, a large number of shell-fish, such as +cockles, muscles, sea-urchins, and Sea-snails, which were very acceptable +to all. + +The snows began on the 6th of October. On the 3d of December, we saw ice +pass which came from some frozen river. The cold was sharp, more severe +than in France, and of much longer duration; and it scarcely rained at all +the entire winter. I suppose that is owing to the north and north-west +winds passing over high mountains always covered with snow. The latter was +from three to four feet deep up to the end of the month of April; lasting +much longer, I suppose, than it would if the country were cultivated. + +During the winter, many of our company were attacked by a certain malady +called the _mal de la terre_; otherwise scurvy, as I have since heard from +learned men. There were produced, in the mouths of those who had it, great +pieces of superfluous and drivelling flesh (causing extensive +putrefaction), which got the upper hand to such an extent that scarcely +anything but liquid could be taken. Their teeth became very loose, and +could be pulled out with the fingers without its causing them pain. The +superfluous flesh was often cut out, which caused them to eject much blood +through the mouth. Afterwards, a violent pain seized their arms and legs, +which remained swollen and very hard, all spotted as if with flea-bites; +and they could not walk on account of the contraction of the muscles, so +that they were almost without strength, and suffered intolerable pains. +They experienced pain also in the loins, stomach, and bowels, had a very +bad cough, and short breath. In a word, they were in such a condition that +the majority of them could not rise nor move, and could not even be raised +up on their feet without falling down in a swoon. So that out of +seventy-nine, who composed our party, thirty-five died, and more than +twenty were on the point of death. The majority of those who remained well +also complained of slight pains and short breath. We were unable to find +any remedy for these maladies. A _post mortem_ examination of several was +made to investigate the cause of their disease. + +In the case of many, the interior parts were found mortified such as the +lungs, which were so changed that no natural fluid could be perceived in +them. The spleen was serous and swollen. The liver was _legueux?_ and +spotted, without its natural color. The _vena cava_, superior and inferior, +was filled with thick coagulated and black blood. The gall was tainted. +Nevertheless, many arteries, in the middle as well as lower bowels, were +found in very good condition. In the case of some, incisions with a razor +were made on the thighs where they had purple spots, whence there issued a +very black clotted blood. This is what was observed on the bodies of those +infected with this malady.[105] + +Our surgeons could not help suffering themselves in the same manner as the +rest. Those who continued sick were healed by spring, which commences in +this country in May.[106] That led us to believe that the change of season +restored their health rather than the remedies prescribed. + +During this winter, all our liquors froze, except the Spanish wine. Cider +was dispensed by the pound. The cause of this loss was that there were no +cellars to our storehouse, and that the air which entered by the cracks was +sharper than that outside. We were obliged to use very bad water, and drink +melted snow, as there were no springs nor brooks; for it was not possible +to go to the main land in consequence of the great pieces of ice drifted by +the tide, which varies three fathoms between low and high water. Work on +the hand-mill was very fatiguing, since the most of us, having slept +poorly, and suffering from insufficiency of fuel, which we could not obtain +on account of the ice, had scarcely any strength, and also because we ate +only salt meat and vegetables during the winter, which produce bad blood. +The latter circumstance was, in my opinion, a partial cause of these +dreadful maladies. All this produced discontent in Sieur de Monts and +others of the settlement. + +It would be very difficult to ascertain the character of this region +without spending a winter in it; for, on arriving here in summer, every +thing is very agreeable, in consequence of the woods, fine country, and the +many varieties of good fish which are found there. There are six months of +winter in this country. + +The savages who dwell here are few in number. During the winter, in the +deepest snows, they hunt elks and other animals, on which they live most of +the time. And, unless the snow is deep, they scarcely get rewarded for +their pains, since they cannot capture any thing except by a very great +effort, which is the reason for their enduring and suffering much. When +they do not hunt, they live on a shell-fish, called the cockle. They clothe +themselves in winter with good furs of beaver and elk. The women make all +the garments, but not so exactly but that you can see the flesh under the +arm-pits, because they have not ingenuity enough to fit them better. When +they go a-hunting, they use a kind of show-shoe twice as large as those +hereabouts, which they attach to the soles of their feet, and walk thus +over the snow without sinking in, the women and children as well as the +men. They search for the track of animals, which, having found, they +follow until they get sight of the creature, when they shoot at it with +their bows, or kill it by means of daggers attached to the end of a short +pike, which is very easily done, as the animals cannot walk on the snow +without sinking in. Then the women and children come up, erect a hut, and +they give themselves to feasting. Afterwards, they return in search of +other animals, and thus they pass the winter. In the month of March +following, some savages came and gave us a portion of their game in +exchange for bread and other things which we gave them. This is the mode of +life in winter of these people, which seems to me a very miserable one. + +We looked for our vessels at the end of April; but, as this passed without +their arriving, all began to have an ill-boding, fearing that some accident +had befallen them. For this reason, on the 15th of May, Sieur de Monts +decided to have a barque of fifteen tons and another of seven fitted up, so +that we might go at the end of the month of June to Gaspe in quest of +vessels in which to return to France, in case our own should not meanwhile +arrive. But God helped us better than we hoped; for, on the 15th of June +ensuing, while on guard about 11 o'clock at night, Pont Grave, captain of +one of the vessels of Sieur de Monts, arriving in a shallop, informed us +that his ship was anchored six leagues from our settlement, and he was +welcomed amid the great joy of all. + +The next day the vessel arrived, and anchored near our habitation. Pont +Grave informed us that a vessel from St. Malo, called the St. Estienne, +was following him, bringing us provisions and supplies. + +On the 17th of the month, Sieur de Monts decided to go in quest of a place +better adapted for an abode, and with a better temperature than our own. +With this view, he had the barque made ready, in which he had purposed to +go to Gaspe. + +ENDNOTES: + +105. _Mal de la terre_. Champlain had bitter experiences of this disease in + Quebec during the winter of 1608-9, when he was still ignorant of its + character; and it was not till several years later that he learned + that it was the old malady called _scurbut_, from the Sclavonic + _scorb_. Latinized into _scorbuticus_. Lescarbot speaks of this + disease as little understood in his time, but as known to Hippocrates. + He quotes Olaus Magnus, who describes it as it appeared among the + nations of the north, who called it _sorbet_, [Greek: kachexia], from + [Greek: kakos], bad, and [Greek: exis], a habit. This undoubtedly + expresses the true cause of this disease, now familiarly known as the + scurvy. It follows exposure to damp, cold, and impure atmosphere, + accompanied by the long-continued use of the same kind of food, + particularly of salt meats, with bad water. All of these conditions + existed at the Island of St. Croix. Champlain's description of the + disease is remarkably accurate. + +106. This passage might be read, "which is in this country in May:" _lequel + commence en ces pays la est en May_. As Laverdiere suggests, it looks + as if Champlain wrote it first _commence_, and then, thinking that the + winter he had experienced might have been exceptional, substituted + _est_, omitting to erase _commence_, so that the sentence, as it + stands, is faulty, containing two verbs instead of one, and being + susceptible of a double sense. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +DISCOVERY OF THE COAST OF THE ALMOUCHIQUOIS AS FAR AS THE FORTY-SECOND +DEGREE OF LATITUDE, AND DETAILS OF THIS VOYAGE. + + +On the 18th of June, 1605, Sieur de Monts set out from the Island of +St. Croix with some gentlemen, twenty sailors, and a savage named +Panounias, together with his wife, whom he was unwilling to leave behind. +These we took, in order to serve us as guides to the country of the +Almouchiquois, in the hope of exploring and learning more particularly by +their aid what the character of this country was, especially since she was +a native of it. + +Coasting, along inside of Manan, an island three leagues from the main +land, we came to the Ranges on the seaward side, at one of which we +anchored, where there was a large number of crows, of which our men +captured a great many, and we called it the Isle aux Corneilles. Thence we +went to the Island of Monts Deserts, at the entrance of the river +Norumbegue, as I have before stated, and sailed five or six leagues among +many islands. Here there came to us three savages in a canoe from Bedabedec +Point, where their captain was; and, after we had had some conversation +with them, they returned the same day. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S DESCRIPTION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +QUINIBEQUY. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. The course of the river. +_B_. Two islands at the entrance of the river. +_C_. Two very dangerous rocks in the river. +_D_. Islets and rocks along the coast. +_E_. Shoals where at full tide vessels of sixty tons' burden may run + aground. +_F_. Place where the savages encamp when they come to fish. +_G_. Sandy shoals along the coast. +_H_. Pond of fresh water. +_I_. Brook where shallops can enter at half tide. +_L_. Islands to the number of four just within the mouth of the river. + + * * * * * + +On Friday, the 1st of July, we set out from one of the islands at the mouth +of the river, where there is a very good harbor for vessels of a hundred or +a hundred and fifty tons. This day we made some twenty-five leagues between +Bedabedec Point and many islands and rocks, which we observed as far as the +river Quinibequy, at the mouth of which is a very high island, which we +called the Tortoise. [107] Between the latter and the main land there are +some scattering rocks, which are covered at full tide, although the sea is +then seen to break over them. [108] Tortoise Island and the river lie +south-south-east and north-north-west. As you enter, there are two +medium-sized islands forming the entrance, one on one side, the other on +the other; [109] and some three hundred paces farther in are two rocks, +where there is no wood, but some little grass. We anchored three hundred +paces from the entrance in five and six fathoms of water. While in this +place, we were overtaken by fogs, on account of which we resolved to enter, +in order to see the upper part of the river and the savages who live there; +and we set out for this purpose on the 5th of the month. Having made some +leagues, our barque came near being lost on a rock which we grazed in +passing. [110] Further on, we met two canoes which had come to hunt birds, +which for the most part are moulting at this season, and cannot fly. We +addressed these savages by aid of our own, who went to them with his wife, +who made them understand the reason of our coming. We made friends with +them and with the savages of this river, who served us as guides. +Proceeding farther, in order to see their captain, named Manthoumermer, we +passed, after we had gone seven or eight leagues, by some islands, straits, +and brooks, which extend along the river, where we saw some fine +meadows. After we had coasted along an island [111] some four leagues in +length, they conducted us to where their chief was [112] with twenty-five +or thirty savages, who, as soon as we had anchored, came to us in a canoe, +separated a short distance from ten others, in which were those who +accompanied him. Coming near our barque, he made an harangue, in which he +expressed the pleasure it gave him to see us, and said that he desired to +form an alliance with us and to make peace with his enemies through our +mediation. He said that, on the next day, he would send to two other +captains of savages, who were in the interior, one called Marchin, and the +other Sasinou, chief of the river Quinibequy. Sieur de Monts gave them some +cakes and peas, with which they were greatly pleased. The next day they +guided us down the river another way than that by which we had come, in +order to go to a lake; and, passing by some islands, they left, each one of +them, an arrow near a cape [113] where all the savages pass, and they +believe that if they should not do this some misfortune would befall them, +according to the persuasions of the devil. They live in such superstitions, +and practise many others of the same sort. Beyond this cape we passed a +very narrow waterfall, but only with great difficulty; for, although we had +a favorable and fresh wind, and trimmed our sails to receive it as well as +possible, in order to see whether we could not pass it in that way, we were +obliged to attach a hawser to some trees on shore and all pull on it. In +this way, by means of our arms together with the help of the wind, which +was favorable to us, we succeeded in passing it. The savages accompanying +us carried their canoes by land, being unable to row them. After going over +this fall, we saw some fine meadows. I was greatly surprised by this fall, +since as we descended with the tide we found it in our favor, but contrary +to us when we came to the fall. But, after we had passed it, it descended +as before, which gave us great Satisfaction. [114] Pursuing our route, we +came to the lake, [115] which is from three to four leagues in length. Here +are some islands, and two rivers enter it, the Quinibequy coming from the +north north-east, and the other from the north-west, whence were to come +Marchin and Sasinou. Having awaited them all this day, and as they did not +come, we resolved to improve our time. We weighed anchor accordingly, and +there accompanied us two savages from this lake to serve as guides. The +same day we anchored at the mouth of the river, where we caught a large +number of excellent fish of various sorts. Meanwhile, our savages went +hunting, but did not return. The route by which we descended this river is +much safer and better than that by which we had gone. Tortoise Island +before the mouth of this river is in latitude [116] 44 deg.; and 19 deg. 12' of the +deflection of the magnetic needle. They go by this river across the country +to Quebec some fifty leagues, making only one portage of two leagues. After +the portage, you enter another little stream which flows into the great +river St. Lawrence [117]. This river Quinibequy is very dangerous for +vessels half a league from its mouth, on account of the small amount of +water, great tides, rocks and shoals outside as well as within. But it has +a good channel, if it were well marked out. The land, so far as I have seen +it along the shores of the river, is very poor, for there are only rocks on +all sides. There are a great many small oaks, and very little arable land. +Fish abound here, as in the other rivers which I have mentioned. The people +live like those in the neighborhood of our settlement; and they told us +that the savages, who plant the Indian corn, dwelt very far in the +interior, and that they had given up planting it on the coasts on account +of the war they had with others, who came and took it away. This is what I +have been able to learn about this region, which I think is no better than +the others. + +On the 8th of the month, we set out from the mouth of this river, not being +able to do so sooner on account of the fogs. We made that day some four +leagues, and passed a bay [118], where there are a great many islands. From +here large mountains [119] are seen to the west, in which is the +dwelling-place of a savage captain called Aneda, who encamps near the river +Quinibequy. I was satisfied from this name that it was one of his tribe +that had discovered the plant called Aneda, [120] which Jacques Cartier +said was so powerful against the malady called scurvy, of which we have +already spoken, which harassed his company as well as our own, when they +wintered in Canada. The savages have no knowledge at all of this plant, and +are not aware of its existence, although the above-mentioned savage has the +same name. The following day we made eight leagues. [121] As we passed +along the coast, we perceived two columns of smoke which some savages made +to attract our attention. We went and anchored in the direction of them +behind a small island near the main land, [122] where we saw more than +eighty savages running along the shore to see us, dancing and giving +expression to their joy. Sieur de Monts sent two men together with our +savage to visit them. After they had spoken some time with them, and +assured them of our friendship, we left with them one of our number, and +they delivered to us one of their companions as a hostage. Meanwhile, Sieur +de Monts visited an island, which is very beautiful in view of what it +produces; for it has fine oaks and nut-trees, the soil cleared up, and many +vineyards bearing beautiful grapes in their season, which were the first we +had seen on all these coasts from the Cap de la Heve. We named it Isle de +Bacchus [123]. It being full tide, we weighed anchor and entered a little +river, which we could not sooner do; for there is a bar, there being at low +tide only half a fathom of water, at full tide a fathom and a half, and at +the highest water two fathoms. On the other side of the bar there are +three, four, five, and six fathoms. When we had anchored, a large number of +savages came to the bank of the river, and began to dance. Their captain at +the time, whom they called Honemechin [124], was not with them. He arrived +about two or three hours later with two canoes, when he came sweeping +entirely round our barque. Our savage could understand only a few words, as +the language of the Almouchiquois [125] (for that is the name of this +nation) differs entirely from that of the Souriquois and Etechemins. These +people gave signs of being greatly pleased. Their chief had a good figure, +was young and agile. We sent some articles of merchandise on shore to +barter with them; but they had nothing but their robes to give in exchange, +for they preserve only such furs as they need for their garments. Sieur de +Monts ordered some provisions to be given to their chief, with which he was +greatly pleased, and came several times to the side of our boat to see us. +These savages shave off the hair far up on the head, and wear what remains +very long, which they comb and twist behind in various ways very neatly, +intertwined with feathers which they attach to the head. They paint their +faces black and red, like the other savages which we have seen. They are an +agile people, with well-formed bodies. Their weapons are pikes, clubs, bows +and arrows, at the end of which some attach the tail of a fish called the +signoc, others bones, while the arrows of others are entirely of wood. They +till and cultivate the soil, something which we have not hitherto +observed. In the place of ploughs, they use an instrument of very hard +wood, shaped like a spade. This river is called by the inhabitants of the +country Choueacoet. [126] + +The next day Sieur de Monts and I landed to observe their tillage on the +bank of the river. We saw their Indian corn, which they raise in gardens. +Planting three or four kernels in one place, they then heap up about it a +quantity of earth with shells of the signoc before mentioned. Then three +feet distant they plant as much more, and thus in succession. With this +corn they put in each hill three or four Brazilian beans, [127] which are +of different colors. When they grow up, they interlace with the corn, which +reaches to the height of from five to six feet; and they keep the ground +very free from weeds. We saw there many squashes,[128] and pumpkins, [129] +and tobacco, which they likewise cultivate. [130] + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +CHOUACOIT R. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. The river. +_B_. Place where they have their fortress. +_C_. Cabins in the open fields, near which they cultivate the land and + plant Indian corn. +_D_. Extensive tract of land which is sandy, but covered with grass. +_E_. Another place where they have their dwellings all together after they + have planted their corn. +_F_. Marshes with good pasturage. +_G_. Spring of fresh water. +_H_. A large point of land all cleared up except some fruit trees and wild + vines. +_I_. Little island at the entrance of the river. +_L_. Another islet. +_M_. Two islands under shelter of which vessels can anchor with good + bottom. +_N_. A point of land cleared up where Marchin came to us. +_O_. Four islands. +_P_. Little brook dry at low tide. +_Q_. Shoals along the coast. +_R_. Roadsted where vessels can anchor while waiting for the tide. + +NOTES. Of the two islands in the northern part of the bay, the larger, +marked _M_, is Stratton Island, nearly half a mile long, and a mile and a +half from Prout's Neck, which lies north of it. A quarter of a mile from +Stratton is Bluff Island, a small island north-west of it. Of the four +islands at the southern end of the bay, the most eastern is Wood Island, on +which the United States maintain a light. The next on the west, two hundred +and fifty yards distant, is Negro Island. The third still further west is +Stage Island. The fourth, quarter of a mile west of the last named, is +Basket Island. The neck or peninsula, south-west of the islands, is now +called the POOL, much resorted to as a watering-place in the summer. The +island near the mouth of the river is Ram Island, and that directly north +of it is Eagle Island. From the mouth of the River to Prout's Neck, marked, +is one of the finest beaches in New England, extending about six nautical +miles. Its Southern extremity is known as Ferry, the northern Scarborough, +and midway between them is Old Orchard Beach, the latter a popular resort +in the summer months of persons from distant parts of the United States and +Canada. + + * * * * * + +The Indian corn which we saw was at that time about two feet high, some of +it as high as three. The beans were beginning to flower, as also the +pumpkins and squashes. They plant their corn in May, and gather it in +September. We saw also a great many nuts, which are small and have several +divisions. There were as yet none on the trees, but we found plenty under +them, from the preceding year. We saw also many grape-vines, on which there +was a remarkably fine berry, from which we made some very good verjuice. +We had heretofore seen grapes only on the Island of Bacchus, distant nearly +two leagues from this river. Their permanent abode, the tillage, and the +fine trees led us to conclude that the air here is milder and better than +that where we passed the winter, and at the other places we visited on the +coast. But I cannot believe that there is not here a considerable degree +of cold, although it is in latitude 43 deg. 45'. [131] The forests in the +interior are very thin, although abounding in oaks, beeches, ashes, and +elms; in wet places there are many willows. The savages dwell permanently +in this place, and have a large cabin surrounded by palisades made of +rather large trees placed by the side of each other, in which they take +refuge when their enemies make war upon them. [132] They cover their cabins +with oak bark. This place is very pleasant, and as agreeable as any to be +seen. The river is very abundant in fish, and is bordered by meadows. At +the mouth there is a small island adapted for the construction of a good +fortress, where one could be in security. + +On Sunday, [133] the 12th of the month, we set out from the river +Choueacoet. After coasting along some six or seven leagues, a contrary wind +arose, which obliged us to anchor and go ashore, [134] where we saw two +meadows, each a league in length and half a league in breadth. We saw there +two savages, whom at first we took to be the great birds called bustards, +to be found in this country; who, as soon as they caught sight of us, took +flight into the woods, and were not seen again. From Choueacoet to this +place, where we saw some little birds, which sing like blackbirds, and are +black excepting the ends of the wings, which are orange-colored, [135] +there is a large number of grape-vines and nut-trees. This coast is sandy, +for the most part, all the way from Quinibequy. This day we returned two +or three leagues towards Choueacoet, as far as a cape which we called Island +Harbor, [136] favorable for vessels of a hundred tons, about which are +three islands. Heading north-east a quarter north, one can enter another +harbor [137] near this place, to which there is no approach, although there +are islands, except the one where you enter. At the entrance there are some +dangerous reefs. There are in these islands so many red currants that one +sees for the most part nothing else, [138] and an infinite number of +pigeons, [139] of which we took a great quantity. This Island Harbor [140] +is in latitude 43 deg. 25'. + +On the 15th of the month we made twelve leagues. Coasting along, we +perceived a smoke on the shore, which we approached as near as possible, +but saw no savage, which led us to believe that they had fled. The sun set, +and we could find no harbor for that night, since the coast was flat and +sandy. Keeping off, and heading south, in order to find an anchorage, after +proceeding about two leagues, we observed a cape [141] on the main land +south a quarter south-east of us, some six leagues distant. Two leagues to +the east we saw three or four rather high islands, [142] and on the west a +large bay. The coast of this bay, reaching as far as the cape, extends +inland from where we were perhaps four leagues. It has a breadth of two +leagues from north to south, and three at its entrance. [143] Not observing +any place favorable for putting in, [144] we resolved to go to the cape +above mentioned with short sail, which occupied a portion of the night. +Approaching to where there were sixteen fathoms of water, we anchored until +daybreak. + +On the next day we went to the above-mentioned cape, where there are three +islands [145] near the main land, full of wood of different kinds, as at +Choueacoet and all along the coast; and still another flat one, where there +are breakers, and which extends a little farther out to Sea than the +others, on which there is no wood at all. We named this place Island Cape, +[146] near which we saw a canoe containing five or six savages, who came +out near our barque, and then went back and danced on the beach. Sieur de +Monts sent me on shore to observe them, and to give each one of them a +knife and some biscuit, which caused them to dance again better than +before. This over, I made them understand, as well as I could, that I +desired them to show me the course of the shore. After I had drawn with a +crayon the bay, [147] and the Island Cape, where we were, with the same +crayon they drew the outline of another bay, [148] which they represented +as very large; here they placed six pebbles at equal distances apart, +giving me to understand by this that these signs represented as many chiefs +and tribes. [149] Then they drew within the first mentioned bay a river +which we had passed, which has shoals and is very long. [150] We found in +this place a great many vines, the green grapes on which were a little +larger than peas, also many nut-trees, the nuts on which were no larger +than musket-balls. The savages told us that all those inhabiting this +country cultivated the land and sowed seeds like the others, whom we had +before seen. The latitude of this place is 43 deg. and some minutes. [151] +Sailing half a league farther, we observed several savages on a rocky +point, [152] who ran along the shore, dancing as they went, to their +companions to inform them of our coming. After pointing out to us the +direction of their abode, they made a signal with smoke to show us the +place of their settlement. We anchored near a little island, [153] and sent +our canoe with knives and cakes for the savages. From the large number of +those we saw, we concluded that these places were better inhabited than the +others we had seen. + +After a stay of some two hours for the sake of observing those people, +whose canoes are made of birch bark, like those of the Canadians, +Souriquois, and Etechemins, we weighed anchor and set sail with a promise +of fine weather. Continuing our course to the west-south-west we saw +numerous islands on one side and the other. Having sailed seven or eight +leagues, we anchored near an island, [154] whence we observed many smokes +along the shore, and many savages running up to see us. Sieur de Monts sent +two or three men in a canoe to them, to whom he gave some knives and +paternosters to present to them; with which they were greatly pleased, and +danced several times in acknowledgment. We could not ascertain the name of +their chief, as we did not know their language. All along the shore there +is a great deal of land cleared up and planted with Indian corn. The +country is very pleasant and agreeable, and there is no lack of fine trees. +The canoes of those who live there are made of a single piece, and are very +liable to turn over if one is not skilful in managing them. We had not +before seen any of this kind. They are made in the following manner. After +cutting down, at a cost of much labor and time, the largest and tallest +tree they can find, by means of stone hatchets (for they have no others +except some few which they received from the savages on the coasts of La +Cadie, [155] them in exchange for furs), they remove the bark, and round +off the tree except on one side, where they apply fire gradually along its +entire length; and sometimes they put red-hot pebble-stones on top. When +the fire is too fierce, they extinguish it with a little water, not +entirely, but so that the edge of the boat may not be burnt. It being +hollowed out as much as they wish, they scrape it all over with stones, +which they use instead of knives. These stones resemble our musket flints. + +On the next day, the 17th of the month, we weighed anchor to go to a cape +we had seen the day before, which seemed to lie on our south +south-west. This day we were able to make only five leagues, and we passed +by some islands [156] covered with wood. I observed in the bay all that the +savages had described to me at Island Cape. As we continued our course, +large numbers came to us in canoes from the islands and main land. We +anchored a league from a cape, which we named St. Louis, [157] where we +noticed smoke in several places. While in the act of going there, our +barque grounded on a rock, where we were in great danger, for, if we had +not speedily got it off, it would have overturned in the sea, since the +tide was falling all around, and there were five or six fathoms of +water. But God preserved us, and we anchored near the above-named cape, +when there come to us fifteen or sixteen canoes of savages. In some of them +there were fifteen or sixteen, who began to manifest great signs of joy, +and made various harangues, which we could not in the least understand. +Sieur de Monts sent three or four men on shore in our canoe, not only to +get water, but to see their chief, whose name was Honabetha. The latter had +a number of knives and other trifles, which Sieur de Monts gave him, when +he came alongside to see us, together with some of his companions, who were +present both along the shore and in their canoes. We received the chief +very cordially, and made him welcome; who, after remaining some time, went +back. Those whom we had sent to them brought us some little squashes as big +as the fist, which we ate as a salad, like cucumbers, and which we found +very good. They brought also some purslane, [158] which grows in large +quantities among the Indian corn, and of which they make no more account +than of weeds. We saw here a great many little houses, scattered over the +fields where they plant their Indian corn. + +There is, moreover, in this bay a very broad river, which we named River du +Guast. [159] It stretches, as it seemed to me, towards the Iroquois, a +nation in open warfare with the Montagnais, who live on the great river +St. Lawrence. + +ENDNOTES: + +107. _Isle de la Tortue_, commonly known as Seguin Island, high and rocky, + with precipitous shores. It is nearly equidistant from Wood, Pond, and + Salter's Islands at the mouth of the Kennebec, and about one mile and + three quarters from each. The United States light upon it is 180 feet + above the level of the sea. It may be seen at the distance of twenty + miles. + +108. Ellingwood Rock, Seguin Ledges, and White Ledge. + +109. Pond Island on the west, and Stage Island on the east: the two rocks + referred to in the same sentence are now called the Sugar Loaves. + +110. This was apparently in the upper part of Back River, where it is + exceedingly narrow. The minute and circumstantial description of the + mouth of the Kennebec, and the positive statement in the text that + they entered the river so described, and the conformity of the + description to that laid down on our Coast Survey Charts, as well as + on Champlain's local map, all render it certain that they entered the + mouth of the Kennebec proper; and having entered, they must have + passed on a flood-tide into and through Back River, which in some + places is so narrow that their little barque could hardly fall to be + grazed in passing. Having reached Hockomock Bay, they passed down + through the lower Hell Gate, rounded the southern point of West Port + or Jerremisquam Island, sailing up its eastern shore until they + reached the harbor of Wiscasset; then down the western side, turning + Hockomock Point, threading the narrow passage of the Sasanoa River + through the upper Hell Gate, entering the Sagadahoc, passing the + Chops, and finally through the Neck, into Merrymeeting Bay. The + narrowness of the channel and the want of water at low tide in Back + River would seem at first blush to throw a doubt over the possibility + of Champlain's passing through this tidal passage. But it has at least + seven feet of water at high tide. His little barque, of fifteen tons, + without any cargo, would not draw more than four feet at most, and + would pass through without any difficulty, incommoded only by the + narrowness of the channel to which Champlain refers. With the same + barque, they passed over the bar at Nauset, or Mallebarre, where + Champlain distinctly says there were only four feet of water.--_Vide + postea_, p. 81. + +111. West Port, or Jerremisquam Island. + +112. This was Wiscasset Harbor, as farther on it will be seen that from + this point they started down the river, taking another way than that + by which they had come. + +113. Hockomock Point, a rocky precipitous bluff. + +114. The movement of the waters about this "narrow waterfall" has been a + puzzle from the days of Champlain to the present time. The phenomena + have not changed. Having consulted the United States Coast Pilot and + likewise several persons who have navigated these waters and have a + personal knowledge of the "fall," the following is, we think, a + satisfactory explanation. The stream in which the fall occurs is + called the Sasanoa, and is a tidal current flowing from the Kennebec, + opposite the city of Bath, to the Sheepscot. It was up this tidal + passage that Champlain was sailing from the waters of the Sheepscot to + the Kennebec, and the "narrow waterfall" was what is now called the + upper Hell Gate, which is only fifty yards wide, hemmed in by walls of + rock on both sides. Above it the Sasanoa expands into a broad bay. + When the tide from the Kennebec has filled this bay, the water rushes + through this narrow gate with a velocity Sometimes of thirteen miles + an hour. There is properly no fall in the bed of the stream, but the + appearance of a fall is occasioned by the pent-up waters of the bay + above rushing through this narrow outlet, having accumulated faster + than they could be drained off. At half ebb, on a spring tide, a wall + of water from six inches to a foot stretches across the stream, and + the roar of the flood boiling over the rocks at the Gate can be heard + two miles below. The tide continues to flow up the Sasanoa from the + Sheepscot not only on the flood, but for some time on the ebb, as the + waters in the upper part of the Sheepscot and its bays, in returning, + naturally force themselves up this passage until they are sufficiently + drained off to turn the current in the Sasanoa in the other direction. + Champlain, sailing from the Sheepscot up the Sasanoa, arrived at the + Gate probably just as the tide was beginning to turn, and when there + was comparatively only a slight fall, but yet enough to make it + necessary to force their little barque up through the Gate by means of + hawsers as described in the text. After getting a short distance from + the narrows, he would be on the water ebbing back into the Kennebec, + and would be still moving with the tide, as he had been until he + reached the fall. + +115. Merrymeeting Bay, so called from the meeting in this bay of the two + rivers mentioned in the text a little below, viz., the Kennebec and + the Androscoggin. + +116. The latitude of Seguin, here called Tortoise Island, is 43 deg. 42' 25". + +117. The head-waters of the Kennebec, as well as those of the Penobscot, + approach very near to the Chaudiere, which flows into the St. + Lawrence near Quebec. + +118. Casco Bay, which stretches from Cape Small Point to Cape Elizabeth. It + has within it a hundred and thirty-six islands. They anchored and + passed the night somewhere within the limits of this bay, but did not + attempt its exploration. + +119. These were the White Mountains in New Hampshire, towering above the + sea 6,225 feet. They are about sixty miles distant from Casco Bay, and + were observed by all the early voyagers as they sailed along the coast + of Maine. They are referred to on Ribero's Map of 1529 by the Spanish + word _montanas_, and were evidently seen by Estevan Gomez in 1525, + whose discoveries are delineated by this map. They will also be found + on the Mappe-Monde of about the middle of the sixteenth century, and + on Sebastian Cabot's map, 1544, both included in the "Monuments de la + Geographie" of Jomard, and they are also indicated on numerous other + early maps. + +120. This conjecture is not sustained by any evidence beyond the similarity + of the names. There are numerous idle opinions as to the kind of plant + which was so efficacious a remedy for the scurvy, but they are utterly + without foundation. There does not appear to be any means of + determining what the healing plant was. + +121. The four leagues of the previous day added to the eight of this bring + them from the Kennebec to Saco Bay. + +122. The small island "proche de la grande terre" was Stratton Island: they + anchored on the northern side and nearly east of Bluff Island, which + is a quarter of a mile distant. The Indians came down to welcome them + from the promontory long known as Black Point, now called Prout's + Neck. Compare Champlain's local map and the United States Coast Survey + Charts. + +123. Champlain's narrative, together with his sketch or drawing, + illustrating the mouth of the Saco and its environs, compared with the + United States Coast Survey Charts, renders it certain that this was + Richmond Island. Lescarbot describes it as a 'great island, about half + a league in compass, at the entrance of the bay of the said place of + Choueacoet It is about a mile long, and eight hundred yards in its + greatest width.--_Coast Pilot_. It received its present name at a very + early period. It was granted under the title of "a small island, + called Richmond," by the Council for New England to Walter Bagnall, + Dec. 2, 1631.--_Vide Calendar of Eng. State Papers_, Col. 1574-1660, + p. 137. Concerning the death of Bagnall on this island a short time + before the above grant was made, _vide Winthrop's Hist. New Eng._, + ed. 1853, Vol. I. pp. 75, 118. + +124. Lescarbot calls him Olmechin.--_Histoire de la Nouvelle France_, par + M. Lescarbot, Paris, 1612, p. 558. + +125. They had hoped that the wife of Panounias, their Indian guide, who was + said to have been born among the Almouchiquois, would be able to + interpret their language, but in this they appear to have been + disappointed.--_Vide antea_, p. 55. + +126. From the Indian word, M'-foo-ah-koo-et, or, as the French pronounced + it, _Choueacoet_, which had been the name, applied by the aborigines to + this locality we know not how long, is derived the name Saco, now + given to the river and city in the same vicinity. The orthography + given to the original word is various, as Sawocotuck, Sowocatuck, + Sawakquatook, Sockhigones, and Choueacost. The variations in this, as + in other Indian words, may have arisen from a misapprehension of the + sound given by the aborigines, or from ignorance, on the part of + writers, of the proper method of representing sounds, joined to an + utter indifference to a matter which seemed to them of trifling + importance. + +127. _Febues du Bresil_. This is the well-known trailing or bush-bean of + New England, _Phaseolus vulgaris_, called the "Brazilian bean" because + it resembled a bean known in France at that time under that name. It + is sometimes called the kidney-bean. It is indigenous to America. + +128. _Citrouilles_, the common summer squash, _Cucurbita polymorpha_, as + may be seen by reference to Champlain's map of 1612, where its form is + delineated over the inscription, _la forme des sitroules_. It is + indigenous to America. Our word squash is derived from the Indian + _askutasquash_ or _isquoutersquash_. "In summer, when their corne is + spent, Isquoutersquashes is their best bread, a fruit like the young + Pumpion."--_Wood's New England Prospect_, 1634, Prince Society ed., + p. 76. "_Askutasquash_, their Vine aples, which the _English_ from + them call _Squashes_, about the bignesse of Apples, of severall + colours, a sweet, light, wholesome refreshing."--_Roger Williams, + Key_, 1643, Narragansett Club ed., p. 125. + +129. _Courges_, the pumpkin, _Cucurbita maxima_, indigenous to America. As + the pumpkin and likewise the squash were vegetables hitherto unknown + to Champlain, there was no French word by which he could accurately + identify them. The names given to them were such as he thought would + describe them to his countrymen more nearly than any others. Had he + been a botanist, he would probably have given them new names. + +130. _Petum_. Tobacco, _Nicotiana rustica_, sometimes called wild tobacco. + It was a smaller and more hardy species than the _Nicotiana tabacum_, + now cultivated in warmer climates, but had the same qualities though + inferior in strength and aroma. It was found in cultivation by the + Indians all along our coast and in Canada. Cartier observed it growing + in Canada in 1535. Of it he says: "There groweth also a certain kind + of herbe, whereof in Sommer they make a great prouision for all the + yeere, making great account of it, and onely men vse of it, and first + they cause it to be dried in the Sunne, then weare it about their + neckes wrapped in a little beasts skinne made like a little bagge, + with a hollow peece of stone or wood like a pipe; then when they + please they make pouder of it, and then put it in one of the ends of + the said Cornet or pipe, and laying a cole of fire vpon it, at the + other ende sucke so long, that they fill their bodies full of smoke, + till that it commeth out of their mouth and nostrils, euen as out of + the Tonnell of a chimney. They say that this doth keepe them warme and + in health: they neuer goe without some of it about them. We ourselues + haue tryed the same smoke, and hauing put it in our mouthes, it seemed + almost as hot as Pepper."--_Jacques Cartier, 2 Voyage_, 1535; + _Hakluyt_, London, ed. 1810, Vol. III. p. 276. + + We may here remark that the esculents found in cultivation at Saco, + beans, squashes, pumpkins, and corn, as well as the tobacco, are all + American tropical or subtropical plants, and must have been + transmitted from tribe to tribe, from more southern climates. The + Indian traditions would seem to indicate this. "They have a + tradition," says Roger Williams, "that the Crow brought them at first + an _Indian_ Graine of Corne in one Eare, and an _Indian_ or _French_ + Beane in another, from the Great God _Kautantouwit's_ field in the + Southwest from whence they hold came all their Corne and Beanes."-- + _Key to the Language of America_, London, 1643, Narragansett Club ed., + p. 144. + + Seventy years before Champlain, Jacques Cartier had found nearly the + same vegetables cultivated by the Indians in the valley of the + St. Lawrence. He says: "They digge their grounds with certaine peeces + of wood, as bigge as halfe a sword, on which ground groweth their + corne, which they call Ossici; it is as bigge as our small peason.... + They haue also great store of Muske-milions. Pompions, Gourds, + Cucumbers, Peason, and Beanes of euery colour, yet differing from + ours."--_Hakluyt_, Vol. II. p. 276. For a full history of these + plants, the reader is referred to the History of Plants, a learned and + elaborate work now in press, by Charles Pickering, M.D. of Boston. + +131. The latitude of Wood Island at the mouth of the Saco, where they were + at anchor, is 43 deg. 27' 23". + +132. The site of this Indian fortification was a rocky bluff on the western + side of the river, now owned by Mr. John Ward, where from time to time + Indian relics have been found. The island at the mouth of the river, + which Champlain speaks of as a suitable location for a fortress, is + Ram Island, and is low and rocky, and about a hundred and fifty yards + in length. + +133. For Sunday read Tuesday.--_Vide Shurtless's Calendar_. + +134. This landing was probably near Wells Neck, and the meadows which they + saw were the salt marshes of Wells. + +135. The Red-wing Blackbird, _Ageloeus phoeniceus_, of lustrous black, with + the bend of the wing red. They are still abundant in the same + locality, and indeed across the whole continent to the Pacific + Ocean.--_Vide Cones's Key_, Boston, 1872, p. 156; _Baird's Report_, + Washington, 1858, Part II. p. 526. + +136. _Le Port aux Isles_. This Island Harbor is the present Cape Porpoise + Harbor. + +137. This harbor is Goose Fair Bay, from one to two miles north-east of + Cape Porpoise, in the middle of which are two large ledges, "the + dangerous reefs" to which Champlain refers. + +138. This was the common red currant of the gardens, _Ribes rubrum_, which + is a native of America. The fetid currant, _Ribes prostratum_, is also + indigenous to this country. It has a pale red fruit, which gives forth + a very disagreeable odor. Josselyn refers to the currant both in his + Voyages and in his Rarities. Tuckerman found it growing wild in the + White Mountains. + +139. The passenger pigeon, _Ectopistes migratorius_, formerly numerous in + New England. Commonly known as the wild pigeon. Wood says they fly in + flocks of millions of millions.--_New England Prospect_, 1634; Prince + Society ed., p. 31. + +140. Champlain's latitude is less inaccurate than usual. It is not possible + to determine the exact point at which he took it. But the latitude of + Cape Porpoise, according to the Coast Survey Charts, is 43 deg. 21' 43". + +141. Cape Anne. + +142. The point at which Champlain first saw Cape Anne, and "isles assez + hautes," the Isles of Shoals, was east of Little Boar's Head, and + three miles from the shore. Nine years afterward, Captain John Smith + visited these islands, and denominated them on his map of New England + Smith's Isles. They began at a very early date to be called the Isles + of Shoals. "Smith's Isles are a heape together, none neere them, + against Accominticus."--_Smith's Description of New England_. Rouge's + map, 1778, has Isles of Shoals, _ou des Ecoles_. For a full + description and history of these islands, the reader is referred to + "The Isles of Shoals," by John S. Jenness, New York, 1875. + +143. Champlain has not been felicitous in his description of this bay. He + probably means to say that from the point where he then was, off + Little Boar's Head, to the point where it extends farthest into the + land, or to the west, it appeared to be about twelve miles, and that + the depth of the bay appeared to be six miles, and eight at the point + of greatest depth. As he did not explore the bay, it is obvious that + he intended to speak of it only as measured by the eye. No name has + been assigned to this expanse of water on our maps. It washes the + coast of Hampton, Salisbury, Newburyport, Ipswich, and Annisquam. It + might well be called Merrimac Bay, aster the name of the important + river that empties its waters into it, midway between its northern and + southern extremities. + +144. It is to be observed that, starting from Cape Porpoise Harbor on the + morning of the 15th of July, they sailed twelve leagues before the + sail of the night commenced. This would bring them, allowing for the + sinuosities of the shore, to a point between Little Boar's Head and + the Isles of Shoals. In this distance, they had passed the sandy + shores of Wells Beach and York Beach in Maine, and Foss's Beach and + Rye Beach in New Hampshire, and still saw the white Sands of Hampton + and Salisbury Beaches stretching far into the bay on their right. The + excellent harbor of Portsmouth, land-locked by numerous islands, had + been passed unobserved. A sail of eighteen nautical miles brought them + to their anchorage at the extreme point of Cape Anne. + +145. Straitsmouth, Thatcher, and Milk island. They were named by Captain + John Smith the "Three Turks' Heads," in memory of the three Turks' + heads cut off by him at the siege of Caniza, by which he acquired from + Sigismundus, prince of Transylvania, their effigies in his shield for + his arms.--_The true Travels, Adventures, and Observations of Captaine + John Smith_, London, 1629. + +146. What Champlain here calls "le Cap aux Isles," Island Cape, is Cape + Anne, called Cape Tragabigzanda by Captain John Smith, the name of his + mistress, to whom he was given when a prisoner among the Turks. The + name was changed by Prince Charles, afterward Charles I., to Cape + Anne, in honor of his mother, who was Anne of Denmark.--_Vide + Description of New England_ by Capt. John Smith, London, 1616. + +147. This was the bay west of a line drawn from Little Boar's Head to Cape + Anne, which may well be called Merrimac Bay. + +148. Massachusetts Bay. + +149. It is interesting to observe the agreement of the sign-writing of this + savage on the point of Cape Anne with the statement of the historian + Gookin, who in 1656 was superintendent of Indian affairs in + Massachusetts, and who wrote in 1674. He says: "Their chief sachem + held dominion over many other petty governours; as those of + Weechagaskas, Neponsitt, Punkapaog, Nonantam, Nashaway, and some of + the Nipmuck people, as far as Pokomtacuke, as the old men of + Massachusetts affirmed." Here we have the six tribes, represented by + the pebbles, recorded seventy years later as a tradition handed down + by the old men of the tribe. Champlain remarks further on, "I observed + in the bay all that the savages had described to me at Island Cape." + +150. This was the Merrimac with its shoals at the mouth, which they had + passed without observing, having sailed from the offing near Little + Boar's Head directly to the head of Cape Anne, during the darkness of + the previous night. + +151. The latitude of the Straitsmouth Island Light on the extreme point of + Cape Anne is 42 deg. 39' 43". A little east of it, where they probably + anchored, there are now sixteen fathoms of water. + +152. Emmerson's Point, forming the eastern extremity of Cape Anne, twenty + or twenty-five feet high, fringed with a wall of bare rocks on the + sea. + +153. Thatcher's Island, near the point just mentioned. It is nearly half a + mile long and three hundred and fifty yards wide, and about fifty feet + high. + +154. It is not possible to determine with absolute certainty the place of + this anchorage. But as Champlain describes, at the end of this + chapter, what must have been Charles River coming from the country of + the Iroquois or the west, most likely as seen from his anchorage, + there can be little doubt that he anchored in Boston Harbor, near the + western limit of Noddle's Island, now known as East Boston. + +155. The fishermen and fur-traders had visited these coasts from a very + early period.--_Vide antea_, note 18. From them they obtained the axe, + a most important implement in their rude mode of life, and it was + occasionally found in use among tribes far in the interior. + + _La Cadie_. Carelessness or indifference in regard to the orthography + of names was general in the time of Champlain. The volumes written in + the vain attempt to settle the proper method of spelling the name of + Shakespeare, are the fruit of this indifference. La Cadie did not + escape this treatment. Champlain writes it Arcadie, Accadie, La Cadie, + Acadie, and L'Acadie; while Lescarbot uniformly, as far as we have + observed, La Cadie. We have also seen it written L'Arcadie and + L'Accadie, and in some, if not in all the preceding forms, with a + Latin termination in _ia_. It is deemed important to secure + uniformity, and to follow the French form in the translation of a + French work rather than the Latin. In this work, it is rendered LA + CADIE in all cases except in quotations. The history of the name + favors this form rather than any other. The commission or charter + given to De Monts by Henry IV. in 1603, a state paper or legal + document, drawn, we may suppose, with more than usual care, has La + Cadie, and repeats it four times without variation. It is a name of + Indian origin, as may be inferred by its appearing in composition in + such words as Passamacadie, Subenacadie, and Tracadie, plainly derived + from the language spoken by the Souriquois and Etechemins. Fifty-five + years before it was introduced into De Monts's commission, it appeared + written _Larcadia_ in Gastaldo's map of "Terra Nova del Bacalaos," in + the Italian translation of Ptolemy's Geography, by Pietro Andrea + Mattiolo, printed at Venice in 1548. The colophon bears date October, + 1547. This rare work is in the possession of Henry C. Murphy, LL.D., + to whom we are indebted for a very beautiful copy of the map. It + appeared again in 1561 on the map of Ruscelli, which was borrowed, as + well as the whole map, from the above work.--_Vide Ruscelli's map in + Dr. Kohl's Documentary History of Maine_, Maine Hist. Soc., Portland, + 1869, p. 233. On this map, Larcadia stands on the coast of Maine, in + the midst of the vast territory included in De Monts's grant, between + the degrees of forty and forty-six north latitude. It will be + observed, if we take away the Latin termination, that the + pronunciation of this word as it first appeared in 1547, would not + differ in _sound_ from La Cadie. It seems, therefore, very clear that + the name of the territory stretching along the coast of Maine, we know + not how far north or south, as it was caught from the lips of the + natives at some time anterior 1547, was best represented by La Cadie, + as pronounced by the French. Whether De Monts had obtained the name of + his American domain from those who had recently visited the coast and + had caught its sound from the natives, or whether he had taken it from + this ancient map, we must remain uninformed. Several writers have + ventured to interpret the word, and give us its original meaning. The + following definitions have been offered: 1. The land of dogs; 2. Our + village; 3. The fish called pollock; 4. Place; 5. Abundance. We do not + undertake to decide between the disagreeing doctors. But it is obvious + to remark that a rich field lies open ready for a noble harvest for + any young scholar who has a genius for philology, and who is prepared + to make a life work of the study and elucidation of the original + languages of North America. The laurels in this field are still to be + gathered. + +156. The islands in Boston Bay. + +157. This attempt to land was in Marshfield near the mouth of South River. + Not succeeding, they sailed forward a league, and anchored at Brant + Point, which they named the Cape of St. Louis. + +158. This purslane, _Portulaca oleracea_, still grows vigorously among the + Indian corn in New England, and is regarded with no more interest now + than in 1605. It is a tropical plant, and was introduced by the + Indians probably by accident with the seeds of tobacco or other + plants. + +159. Here at the end of the chapter Champlain seems to be reminded that he + had omitted to mention the river of which he had learned, and had + probably seen in the bay. This was Charles River. From the western + side of Noddle's Island, or East Boston, where they were probably at + anchor, it appeared at its confluence with the Mystic River to come + from the west, or the country of the Iroquois. By reference to + Champlain's large map of 1612, this river will be clearly identified + as Charles River, in connection with Boston Bay and its numerous + islands. On that map it is represented as a long river flowing from + the west. This description of the river by Champlain was probably from + personal observation. Had he obtained his information from the + Indians, they would not have told him that it was broad or that it + came from the west, for such are not the facts; but they would have + represented to him that it was small, winding in its course, and that + it came from the south. We infer, therefore, that he not only saw it + himself, but probably from the deck of the little French barque, as it + was riding at anchor in our harbor near East Boston, where Charles + River, augmented by the tide, flows into the harbor from the west, in + a strong, broad, deep current. They named it in honor of Pierre du + Guast, Sieur de Monts, the commander of this expedition. Champlain + writes the name "du Gas;" De Laet has "de Gua;" while Charlevoix + writes "du Guast." This latter orthography generally prevails. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +CONTINUATION OF THE DISCOVERIES ALONG THE COAST OF THE ALMOUCHIQUOIS, AND +WHAT WE OBSERVED IN DETAIL. + + +The next day we doubled Cap St. Louis, [160] so named by Sieur de Monts, a +land rather low, and in latitude 42 deg. 45'. [161] The same day we sailed two +leagues along a sandy coast, as we passed along which we saw a great many +cabins and gardens. The wind being contrary, we entered a little bay to +await a time favorable for proceeding. There came to us two or three +canoes, which had just been fishing for cod and other fish, which are found +there in large numbers. These they catch with hooks made of a piece of +wood, to which they attach a bone in the shape of a spear, and fasten it +very securely. The whole has a fang-shape, and the line attached to it is +made out of the bark of a tree. They gave me one of their hooks, which I +took as a curiosity. In it the bone was fastened on by hemp, like that in +France, as it seemed to me, and they told me that they gathered this plant +without being obliged to cultivate it; and indicated that it grew to the +height of four or five feet. [162] This canoe went back on shore to give +notice to their fellow inhabitants, who caused columns of smoke to arise on +our account. We saw eighteen or twenty savages, who came to the shore and +began to dance. Our canoe landed in order to give them some bagatelles, at +which they were greatly pleased. Some of them came to us and begged us to +go to their river. We weighed anchor to do so, but were unable to enter on +account of the small amount of water, it being low tide, and were +accordingly obliged to anchor at the mouth. I went ashore, where I saw many +others, who received us very cordially. I made also an examination of the +river, but saw only an arm of water extending a short distance inland, +where the land is only in part cleared up. Running into this is merely a +brook not deep enough for boats except at full tide. The circuit of the bay +is about a league. On one side of the entrance to this bay there is a point +which is almost an island, covered with wood, principally pines, and +adjoins sand-banks, which are very extensive. On the other side, the land +is high. There are two islets in this bay, which are not seen until one +has entered, and around which it is almost entirely dry at low tide. This +place is very conspicuous from the sea, for the coast is very low, +excepting the cape at the entrance to the bay. We named it the Port du Cap +St. Louis, [163] distant two leagues from the above cape, and ten from the +Island Cape. It is in about the same latitude as Cap St. Louis. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +PORT ST. LOUIS. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. Indicates the place where vessels lie. +_B_. The channel. +_C_. Two islands. [Note: Clark's Island is now the sole representative of + the two figured by Champlain in 1605. The action of the waves has + either united the two, or swept one of them away. It was named after + Clark, the master's mate of the "May Flower," who was the first to + step on shore, when the party of Pilgrims, sent out from Cape Cod + Harbor to Select a habitation, landed on this island, and passed the + night of the 9th of December, O. S. 1620. _Vide_ Morton's Memorial, + 1669, Plymouth Ed. 1826. p. 35: Young's Chronicles, p. 160; Bradford's + His. Plym. Plantation, p. 87. This delineation removes all doubt as to + the missing island in Plymouth Harbor, and shows the incorrectness of + the theory as to its being Saquish Head, suggested in a note in + Young's Chronicles, p. 64. _Vide_ also Mourt's Relation, Dexter's ed., + note 197.] +_D_. Sandy downs. [Note: Saquish Neck] +_E_. Shoals. +_F_. Cabins where the savages till the ground. +_G_. Place where we beached our barque. +_H_. Land having the appearance of an island, covered with wood and + adjoining the sandy downs. [Note: Saquish Head, which seems to have + been somewhat changed since the time of Champlain. Compare Coast + Survey Chart of Plymouth Harbor, 1857.] +_I_. A high promontory which may be seen four or five leagues at + sea. [Note: Manomet Bluff.] + + * * * * * + +On the 19th of the month, we set out from this place. Coasting along in a +southerly direction, we sailed four or five leagues, and passed near a rock +on a level with the surface of the water. As we continued our course, we +saw some land which seemed to us to be islands, but as we came nearer we +found it to be the main land, lying to the north-north-west of us, and that +it was the cape of a large bay, [164] containing more than eighteen or +nineteen leagues in circuit, into which we had run so far that we had to +wear off on the other tack in order to double the cape which we had +seen. The latter we named Cap Blanc, [165] since it contained sands and +downs which had a white appearance. A favorable wind was of great +assistance to us here, for otherwise we should have been in danger of being +driven upon the coast. This bay is very safe, provided the land be not +approached nearer than a good league, there being no islands nor rocks +except that just mentioned, which is near a river that extends some +distance inland, which we named St. Suzanne du Cap Blanc, [166] whence +across to Cap St. Louis the distance is ten leagues. Cap Blanc is a point +of sand, which bends around towards the south some six leagues. This coast +is rather high, and consists of sand, which is very conspicuous as one +comes from the Sea. At a distance of some fifteen or eighteen leagues from +land, the depth of the water is thirty, forty, and fifty fathoms, but only +ten on nearing the shore, which is unobstructed. There is a large extent +of open country along the shore before reaching the woods, which are very +attractive and beautiful. We anchored off the coast, and saw some savages, +towards whom four of our company proceeded. Making their way upon a +sand-bank, they observed something like a bay, and cabins bordering it on +all sides. When they were about a league and a half from us, there came to +them a savage dancing all over, as they expressed it. He had come down from +the high shore, but turned about shortly after to inform his fellow +inhabitants of our arrival. + +The next day, the 20th of the month, we went to the place which our men had +seen, and which we found a very dangerous harbor in consequence of the +shoals and banks, where we saw breakers in all directions. It was almost +low tide when we entered, and there were only four feet of water in the +northern passage; at high tide, there are two fathoms. After we had +entered, we found the place very spacious, being perhaps three or four +leagues in circuit, entirely surrounded by little houses, around each one +of which there was as much land as the occupant needed for his support. A +small river enters here, which is very pretty, and in which at low tide +there are some three and a half feet of water. There are also two or three +brooks bordered by meadows. It would be a very fine place, if the harbor +were good. I took the altitude, and found the latitude 42 deg., and the +deflection of the magnetic needle 18 deg. 40'. Many savages, men and women, +visited us, and ran up on all sides dancing. We named this place Port de +Mallebarre. [167] + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +MALLEBARRE. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. The two entrances to the harbor. +_B_. Sandy downs where the savages killed a sailor belonging to the barque + of Sieur de Monts. +_C_. Places in the harbor where the barque of Sieur de Monts was. +_D_. Spring on the shore of the harbor. +_E_. A river flowing into the harbor. +_F_. A brook. +_G_. A small river where quantities of fish are caught. +_H_. Sandy downs with low shrubs and many vines. +_I_. Island at the point of the downs. +_L_. Houses and dwelling-places of the savages that till the land. +_M_. Shoals and sand-banks at the entrance and inside of the harbor. +_O_. Sandy downs. +_P_. Sea-coast, +_q_. Barque of Sieur de Poutrincourt when he visited the place two years + after Sieur de Monts. +_R_. Landing of the party of Sieur de Poutrincourt. + +NOTES. A comparison of this map with the Coast Survey Charts will show very +great changes in this harbor since the days of Champlain. Not only has the +mouth of the bay receded towards the south, but this recession appears to +have left entirely dry much of the area which was flooded in 1605. Under +reference _q_, on the above map, it is intimated that De Poutrincourt's +visit was two years after that of De Monts. It was more than one, and was +the second year after, but not, strictly speaking, "two years after." + + * * * * * + +The next day, the 21st of the month, Sieur de Monts determined to go and +see their habitation. Nine or ten of us accompanied him with our arms; the +rest remained to guard the barque. We went about a league along the coast. +Before reaching their cabins, we entered a field planted with Indian corn +in the manner before described. The corn was in flower, and five and a half +feet high. There was some less advanced, which they plant later. We saw +many Brazilian beans, and many squashes of various sizes, very good for +eating; some tobacco, and roots which they cultivate, the latter having the +taste of an artichoke. The woods are filled with oaks, nut-trees, and +beautiful cypresses, [168] which are of a reddish color and have a very +pleasant odor. There were also several fields entirely uncultivated, the +land being allowed to remain fallow. When they wish to plant it, they set +fire to the weeds, and then work it over with their wooden spades. Their +cabins are round, and covered with heavy thatch made of reeds. In the roof +there is an opening of about a foot and a half, whence the smoke from the +fire passes out. We asked them if they had their permanent abode in this +place, and whether there was much snow. But we were unable to ascertain +this fully from them, not understanding their language, although they made +an attempt to inform us by signs, by taking some sand in their hands. +Spreading it out over the ground, and indicating that it was of the color +of our collars, and that it reached the depth of a foot. Others made signs +that there was less, and gave us to understand also that the harbor never +froze; but we were unable to ascertain whether the snow lasted long. I +conclude, however, that this region is of moderate temperature, and the +winter not severe. While we were there, there was a north-cast storm, which +lasted four days; the sky being so overcast that the sun hardly shone at +all. It was very cold, and we were obliged to put on our great-coats, which +we had entirely left off. Yet I think the cold was accidental, as it is +often experienced elsewhere out of season. + +On the 23d of July, four or five seamen having gone on shore with some +kettles to get fresh water, which was to be found in one of the sand-banks +a short distance from our barque, some of the savages, coveting them, +watched the time when our men went to the spring, and then seized one out +of the hands of a sailor, who was the first to dip, and who had no +weapons. One of his companions, starting to run after him, soon returned, +as he could not catch him, since he ran much faster than himself. The other +savages, of whom there were a large number, seeing our sailors running to +our barque, and at the same time shouting to us to fire at them, took to +flight. At the time there were some of them in our barque, who threw +themselves into the sea, only one of whom we were able to seize. Those on +the land who had taken to flight, seeing them swimming, returned straight +to the sailor from whom they had taken away the kettle, hurled several +arrows at him from behind, and brought him down. Seeing this, they ran at +once to him, and despatched him with their knives. Meanwhile, haste was +made to go on shore, and muskets were fired from our barque: mine, bursting +in my hands, came near killing me. The savages, hearing this discharge of +fire-arms, took to flight, and with redoubled speed when they saw that we +had landed, for they were afraid when they saw us running after them. There +was no likelihood of our catching them, for they are as swift as horses. +We brought in the murdered man, and he was buried some hours later. +Meanwhile, we kept the prisoner bound by the feet and hands on board of our +barque, fearing that he might escape. But Sieur de Monts resolved to let +him go, being persuaded that he was not to blame, and that he had no +previous knowledge of what had transpired, as also those who, at the time, +were in and about our barque. Some hours later there came some savages to +us, to excuse themselves, indicating by signs and demonstrations that it +was not they who had committed this malicious act, but others farther off +in the interior. We did not wish to harm them, although it was in our power +to avenge ourselves. + +All these savages from the Island Cape wear neither robes nor furs, except +very rarely: moreover, their robes are made of grasses and hemp, scarcely +covering the body, and coming down only to their thighs. They have only the +sexual parts concealed with a small piece of leather; so likewise the +women, with whom it comes down a little lower behind than with the men, all +the rest of the body being naked. Whenever the women came to see us, they +wore robes which were open in front. The men cut off the hair on the top of +the head like those at the river Choueacoet. I saw, among other things, a +girl with her hair very neatly dressed, with a skin colored red, and +bordered on the upper part with little shell-beads. A part of her hair +hung down behind, the rest being braided in various ways. These people +paint the face red, black, and yellow. They have scarcely any beard, and +tear it out as fast as it grows. Their bodies are well-proportioned. I +cannot tell what government they have, but I think that in this respect +they resemble their neighbors, who have none at all. They know not how to +worship or pray; yet, like the other savages, they have some superstitions, +which I shall describe in their place. As for weapons, they have only +pikes, clubs, bows and arrows. It would seem from their appearance that +they have a good disposition, better than those of the north, but they are +all in fact of no great worth. Even a slight intercourse with them gives +you at once a knowledge of them. They are great thieves and, if they cannot +lay hold of any thing with their hands, they try to do so with their feet, +as we have oftentimes learned by experience. I am of opinion that, if they +had any thing to exchange with us, they would not give themselves to +thieving. They bartered away to us their bows, arrows, and quivers, for +pins and buttons; and if they had had any thing else better they would have +done the same with it. It is necessary to be on one's guard against this +people, and live in a state of distrust of them, yet without letting them +perceive it. They gave us a large quantity of tobacco, which they dry and +then reduce to powder. [169] When they eat Indian corn, they boil it in +earthen pots, which they make in a way different from ours. [170]. They +bray it also in wooden mortars and reduce it to flour, of which they then +make cakes, like the Indians of Peru. + +In this place and along the whole coast from Quinibequy, there are a great +many _siguenocs_, [171] which is a fish with a shell on its back like the +tortoise, yet different, there being in the middle a row of little +prickles, of the color of a dead leaf, like the rest of the fish. At the +end of this shell, there is another still smaller, bordered by very sharp +points. The length of the tail-varies according to their size. With the end +of it, these people point their arrows, and it contains also a row of +prickles like the large shell in which are the eyes. There are eight small +feet like those of the crab, and two behind longer and flatter, which they +use in swimming. There are also in front two other very small ones with +which they eat. When walking, all the feet are concealed excepting the two +hindermost which are slightly visible. Under the small shell there are +membranes which swell up, and beat like the throat of a frog, and rest upon +each other like the folds of a waistcoat. The largest specimen of this fish +that I saw was a foot broad, and a foot and a half long. + +We saw also a sea-bird [172] with a black beak, the upper part slightly +aquiline, four inches long and in the form of a lancet; namely, the lower +part representing the handle and the upper the blade, which is thin, sharp +on both sides, and shorter by a third than the other, which circumference +is a matter of astonishment to many persons, who cannot comprehend how it +is possible for this bird to eat with such a beak. It is of the size of a +pigeon, the wings being very long in proportion to the body, the tail +short, as also the legs, which are red; the feet being small and flat. The +plumage on the upper part is gray-brown, and on the under part pure white. +They go always in flocks along the sea-shore, like the pigeons with us. + +The savages, along all these coasts where we have been, say that other +birds, which are very large, come along when their corn is ripe. They +imitated for us their cry, which resembles that of the turkey. They showed +us their feathers in several places, with which they feather their arrows, +and which they put on their heads for decoration; and also a kind of hair +which they have under the throat like those we have in France, and they say +that a red crest falls over upon the beak. According to their description, +they are as large as a bustard, which is a kind of goose, having the neck +longer and twice as large as those with us. All these indications led us to +conclude that they were turkeys. [173] We should have been very glad to +see some of these birds, as well as their feathers, for the sake of greater +certainty. Before seeing their feathers, and the little bunch of hair which +they have under the throat, and hearing their cry imitated, I should have +thought that they were certain birds like turkeys, which are found in some +places in Peru, along the sea-shore, eating carrion and other dead things +like crows. But these are not so large; nor do they have so long a bill, or +a cry like that of real turkeys; nor are they good to eat like those which +the Indians say come in flocks in summer, and at the beginning of winter go +away to warmer countries, their natural dwelling-place. + +ENDNOTES: + +160. It will be observed that, after doubling this cape, they sailed two + leagues, and then entered Plymouth Harbor, and consequently this cape + must have been what is now known as Brant Point. + +161. The latitude is 42 deg. 5'. + +162. This was plainly our Indian hemp, _Asclepias incarnata_. "The fibres + of the bark are strong, and capable of being wrought into a fine soft + thread; but it is very difficult to separate the bark from the stalk. + It is said to have been used by the Indians for bow-strings."--_Vide + Cutler in Memoirs of the American Academy_, Vol. I. p. 424. It is the + Swamp Milkweed of Gray, and grows in wet grounds. One variety is + common in New England. The Pilgrims found at Plymouth "an excellent + strong kind of Flaxe and Hempe"--_Vide Mourt's Relation_, Dexter's + ed. p. 62. + +163. _Port du Cap St. Louis_. From the plain, the map in his edition of + 1613, drawing of this Harbor left by Champlain, and also that of the + edition of 1632, it is plain that the "Port du Cap St. Louis" is + Plymouth Harbor, where anchored the "Mayflower" a little more than + fifteen years later than this, freighted with the first permanent + English colony established in New England, commonly known as the + Pilgrims. The Indian name of the harbor, according to Captain John + Smith, who visited it in 1614. was Accomack. He gave it, by direction + of Prince Charles, the name of Plymouth. More recent investigations + point to this harbor as the one visited by Martin Pring in 1603.-- + _Vide Paper by the Rev Benj. F. De Costa, before the New England + His. Gen. Society_, Nov. 7, 1877, New England His. and Gen. Register, + Vol. XXXII. p. 79. + + The interview of the French with the natives was brief, but courteous + and friendly on both sides. The English visits were interrupted by + more or less hostility. "When Pring was about ready to leave, the + Indians became hostile and set the woods on fire, and he saw it burn + 'for a mile space.'"--_De Costa_. A skirmish of some seriousness + occurred with Smith's party. "After much kindnesse upon a small + occasion, wee fought also with fortie or fiftie of those: though some + were hurt, and some slaine, yet within an hour after they became + friends."--_Smith's New England_, Boston, ed. 1865, p. 45. + +164. Cape Cod Bay. + +165. They named it "le Cap Blanc," the White Cape, from its white + appearance, while Bartholomew Gosnold, three years before, had named + it Cape Cod from the multitude of codfish near its shores. Captain + John Smith called it Cape James. All the early navigators who passed + along our Atlantic coast seem to have seen the headland of Cape + Cod. It is well defined on Juan de la Cosa's map of 1500, although no + name is given to it. On Ribero's map of 1529 it is called _C. de + arenas_. On the map of Nic. Vallard de Dieppe of 1543, it is called + _C. de Croix_. + +166. Wellfleet Harbor. It may be observed that a little farther back + Champlain says that, having sailed along in a southerly direction four + or five leagues, they were at a place where there was a "rock on a + level with the surface of the water," and that they saw lying + north-north-west of them Cap Blanc, that is, Cape Cod; he now says + that the "rock" is near a river, which they named St. Suzanne du Cap + Blanc, and that from it to Cap St. Louis the distance is ten + leagues. Now, as the distance across to Brant Point, or Cap St. Louis, + from Wellfleet Harbor, is ten leagues, and as Cap Blanc or Cape Cod is + north-northwest of it, it is plain that Wellfleet Harbor or Herring + River, which flows into it, was the river which they named St. Suzanne + du Cap Blanc, and that the "rock on a level with the water" was one of + the several to be found near the entrance of Wellfleet Bay. It may + have been the noted Bay Rock or Blue Rock. + +167. _Port de Mallebarre_, Nauset Harbor, in latitude 41 deg. 48'. By comparing + Champlain's map of the harbor, it will be seen that important changes + have taken place since 1605. The entrance has receded a mile or more + towards the south, and this has apparently changed its interior + channel, and the whole form of the bay. The name itself has drifted + away with the sands, and feebly clings to the extremity of Monomoy + Point at the heel of the Cape. + +168. Not strictly a cypress, but rather a juniper, the Savin, or red cedar, + _Juniparus Virginiana_, a tree of exclusively American origin; and + consequently it could not be truly characterized by any name then + known to Champlain. + +169. The method of preparing tobacco here for smoking was probably not + different from that of the Indian tribes in Canada. Among the Huron + antiquities in the Museum at the University Laval are pipes which were + found already filled with tobacco, so prepared as to resemble our + fine-cut tobacco.--_Vide Laverdiere in loco_. + +170. The following description of the Indian pottery, and the method of its + manufacture by their women, as quoted by Laverdiere from Sagard's + History of Canada, who wrote in 1636, will be interesting to the + antiquary, and will illustrate what Champlain means by "a way + different from ours:"-- + + "They are skilful in making good earthen pots, which they harden very + well on the hearth, and which are so strong that they do not, like our + own, break over the fire when having no water in them. But they cannot + sustain dampness nor cold water so long as our own, since they become + brittle and break at the least shock given them; otherwise they last + very well. The savages make them by taking some earth of the right + kind, which they clean and knead well in their hands, mixing with it, + on what principle I know not, a small quantity of grease. Then making + the mass into the shape of a ball, they make an indentation in the + middle of it with the fist, which they make continually larger by + striking repeatedly on the outside with a little wooden paddle as much + as is necessary to complete it. These vessels are of different sizes, + without feet or handles, completely round like a ball, excepting the + mouth, which projects a little." + +171. This crustacean, _Limulus polyphemus_, is still seen on the strands of + New England. They are found in great abundance in more southern + waters: on the shores of Long Island and New Jersey, they are + collected in boat-loads and made useful for fertilizing purposes. + Champlain has left a drawing of it on his large map. It is vulgarly + known as the king-crab, or horse-foot; to the latter it bears a + striking similarity. This very accurate description of Champlain was + copied by De Laet into his elaborate work "Novus Orbis," published in + 1633, accompanied by an excellent wood-engraving. This species is + peculiar to our Atlantic waters, and naturally at that time attracted + the attention of Europeans, who had not seen it before. + +172. The Black skimmer or Cut-water, _Rhynchops nigra_. It appears to be + distinct from, but closely related to, the Terns. This bird is here + described with general accuracy. According to Dr. Coues, it belongs + more particularly to the South Atlantic and Gulf States, where it is + very abundant; it is frequent in the Middle States, and only + occasionally seen in New England. The wings are exceedingly long; they + fly in close flocks, moving simultaneously. They seem to feed as they + skim low over the water, the under-mandible grazing or cutting the + surface, and thus taking in their food.--_Vide Coues's Key to North + American Birds_, Boston, 1872, p. 324. + + Whether Champlain saw this bird as a "stray" on the shores of Cape + Cod, or whether it has since ceased to come in large numbers as far + north as formerly, offers an interesting inquiry for the + ornithologists. Specimens may be seen in the Museum of the Boston + Society of Natural History. + +173. Champlain was clearly correct in his conclusion. The wild Turkey, + _Meleagris gallopavo_, was not uncommon in New England at that + period. Wood and Josselyn and Higginson, all speak of it fully:-- + + "Of these, sometimes there will be forty, threescore and a hundred of + a flocke; sometimes more, and sometimes lesse; their feeding is + Acornes, Hawes, and Berries; some of them get a haunt to frequent our + _English_ corne: In winter, when the snow covers the ground, they + resort to the Sea shore to look for Shrimps, and such small Fishes at + low tides. Such as love Turkie hunting, most follow it in winter after + a new-falne Snow, when hee may followe them by their tracts; some have + killed ten or a dozen in half a day; if they can be found towards an + evening and watched where they peirch, if one come about ten or eleven + of the clock, he may shoote as often as he will, they will sit, + unlesse they be slenderly wounded. These Turkies remaine all the yeare + long, the price of a good Turkey cocke is foure shillings; and he is + well worth it for he may be in weight forty pound: a Hen, two + shillings."--_Wood's New England Prospect_, 1634, Prince Society ed., + Boston, p. 32. + + "The _Turkie_, who is blacker than ours; I haue heard several credible + persons affirm, they haue seen _Turkie Cocks_ that have weighed forty, + yea sixty pound; but out of my personal experimental knowledge I can + assure you, that I haue eaten my share of a _Turkie Cock_, that when + he was pull'd and garbidg'd, weighed thirty [9] pound; and I haue also + seen threescore broods of young _Turkies_ on the side of a marsh, + sunning themselves in a morning betimes, but this was thirty years + since, the _English_ and the _Indians_ having now destroyed the breed, + so that 'tis very rare to meet with a wild _Turkie_ in the Woods: But + some of the _English_ bring up great store of the wild kind, which + remain about their Houses as tame as ours in _England_."--_New + England's Rarities_, by John Josselyn, Gent., London, 1672, + Tuckerman's ed., pp. 41, 42. + + "Here are likewise abundance of Turkies often killed in the Woods, + farre greater then our English Turkies, and exceeding fat, sweet, and + fleshy, for here they haue aboundance of feeding all the yeere long, + as Strawberriees, in Summer at places are full of them and all manner + of Berries and Fruits."--_New England Plantation_, by Francis + Higginson, London, 1630. _Vide_ also _Bradford's Hist. Plym. + Plantation_, 1646, Deane's ed., Boston, 1856. p. 105. + + It appears to be the opinion among recent ornithologists that the + species of turkey, thus early found in New England, was the _Meleagris + Americana_, long since extirpated, and not identical with our + domesticated bird. Our domestic turkey is supposed to have originated + in the West Indies or in Mexico, and to have been transplanted as + tamed to other parts of this continent, and to Europe, and named by + Linnaeus. _Meleagris gallopavo_.--_Vide Report on the Zoology of + Pacific Railroad Routes_, by Baird, Washington, 1858. Vol. IX. Part + II. pp. 613-618; _Coues's Key_, Boston, 1872, pp. 231, 232. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +RETURN FROM THE DISCOVERIES ALONG THE COAST OF THE ALMOUCHIQUOIS. + + +We had spent more than five weeks in going over three degrees of latitude, +and our voyage was limited to six, since we had not taken provisions for a +longer time. In consequence of fogs and storms, we had not been able to go +farther than Mallebarre, where we waited several days for fair weather, in +order to sail. Finding ourselves accordingly pressed by the scantiness of +provisions, Sieur de Monts determined to return to the Island of St. Croix, +in order to find another place more favorable for our settlement, as we had +not been able to do on any of the coasts which we had explored on this +voyage. + +Accordingly, on the 25th of July, we set out from this harbor, in order to +make observations elsewhere. In going out, we came near being lost on the +bar at the entrance, from the mistake of our pilots, Cramolet and +Champdore, masters of the barque, who had imperfectly marked out the +entrance of the channel on the southern side, where we were to go. Having +escaped this danger, we headed north-east [174] for six leagues, until we +reached Cap Blanc, sailing on from there to Island Cape, a distance of +fifteen leagues, with the same wind. Then we headed east-north-east sixteen +leagues, as far as Choueacoet, where we saw the savage chief, Marchin, [175] +whom we had expected to see at the Lake Quinibequy. He had the reputation +of being one of the valiant ones of his people. He had a fine appearance: +all his motions were dignified, savage as he was. Sieur de Monts gave him +many presents, with which he was greatly pleased; and, in return, Marchin +gave him a young Etechemin boy, whom he had captured in war, and whom we +took away with us; and thus we set out, mutually good friends. We headed +north-east a quarter east for fifteen leagues, as far as Quinibequy, where +we arrived on the 29th of the month, and where we were expecting to find a +savage, named Sasinou, of whom I spoke before. Thinking that he would come, +we waited some time for him, in order to recover from him an Etechemin +young man and girl, whom he was holding as prisoners. While waiting, there +came to us a captain called Anassou, who trafficked a little in furs, and +with whom we made an alliance. He told us that there was a ship, ten +leagues off the harbor, which was engaged in fishing, and that those on her +had killed five savages of this river, under cover of friendship. From his +description of the men on the vessel, we concluded that they were English, +and we named the island where they were La Nef; [176] for, at a distance, +it had the appearance of a ship. Finding that the above-mentioned Sasinou +did not come, we headed east-south-east, [176-1/2] for twenty leagues, to +Isle Haute, where we anchored for the night. + +On the next day, the 1st of August, we sailed east some twenty leagues to +Cap Corneille, [177] where we spent the night. On the 2d of the month, we +sailed north-east seven leagues to the mouth of the river St. Croix, on the +western shore. Having anchored between the two first islands, [178] Sieur +de Monts embarked in a canoe, at a distance of six leagues from the +settlement of St. Croix, where we arrived the next day with our barque. We +found there Sieur des Antons of St. Malo, who had come in one of the +vessels of Sieur de Monts, to bring provisions and also other supplies for +those who were to winter in this country. + +ENDNOTES: + +174. Champlain is in error as to the longitude of Mallebarre, or Nauset + harbor, from which they took their departure on the 25th of July, + 1605. This port is about 38' east of Island Cape, or Cape Anne, and + about 16' east of the western point of Cap Blanc, or Cape Cod; and, to + reach their destination, they must have sailed north-west, and not + north-east, as he erroneously states. + +175. They had failed to meet him at the lake in the Kennebec; namely, + Merrymeeting Bay.--_Vide antea_, p. 60. + +176. The island which they thus named _La Nef_, the Ship, was Monhegan, + about twenty-five nautical miles east from the mouth of the Kennebec, + a mile and a third long, with an elevation at its highest point of a + hundred and forty feet above the level of the sea, and in latitude 43 deg. + 45' 52". Champlain's conjecture as to the nationality of the ship was + correct. It was the "Archangel," commanded by the celebrated explorer, + Captain George Weymouth, who under the patronage of the Earl of + Southampton came to explore our Atlantic coast in the spring of 1605, + for the purpose of selecting a site for an English colony. He anchored + near Monhegan on the 28th of May, N. S.; and, after spending nearly a + month in reconnoitring the islands and mainland in the vicinity, and + capturing five of the natives, he took his departure for England on + the 26th of June. On the 5th of July, just 9 days after Weymouth left + the coast, De Monts and Champlain entered with their little barque the + mouth of the Kennebec. They do not appear to have seen at that time + any of the natives at or about the mouth of the river; and it is not + unlikely that, on account of the seizure and, as they supposed, the + murder of their comrades by Weymouth, they had retired farther up the + river for greater safety. On the return, however, of the French from + Cape Cod, on the 29th of July, Anassou gave them, as stated in the + text, a friendly reception, and related the story of the seizure of + his friends. + + To prevent the interference of other nations, it was the policy of + Weymouth and his patron not to disclose the locality of the region he + had explored; and consequently Rosier, the narrator of the voyage, so + skilfully withheld whatever might clearly identify the place, and + couched his descriptions in such indefinite language, that there has + been and is now a great diversity of opinion on the subject among + local historians. It was the opinion of the Rev. Thomas Prince that + Weymouth explored the Kennebec, or Sagadahoc, and with him coincide + Mr. John McKeen and the Rev. Dr. Ballard, of Brunswick. The + Rev. Dr. Belknap, after satisfactory examinations, decided that it was + the Penobscot; and he is followed by Mr. William Willis, late + President of the Maine Historical Society. Mr. George Prince, of Bath, + has published an elaborate paper to prove that it was St. George's + River; and Mr. David Cushman, of Warren, coincides in this view. Other + writers, not entering into the discussion at length, accept one or + another of the theories above mentioned. It does not fall within the + purview of our present purpose to enter upon the discussion of this + subject. But the statement in the text, not referred to by any of the + above-mentioned writers, "that those on her had killed five savages + _of this river," que ceux de dedans avoient tue cinq sauuages d'icelle + riviere_, can hardly fail to have weight in the decision of this + interesting question. + + The chief Anassou reported that they were "killed," a natural + inference under the circumstances; but in fact they were carefully + concealed in the hold of the ship, and three of them, having been + transported to England and introduced into his family, imparted much + important information to Sir Ferdinando Gorges, whose distinguished + career was afterward so intimately connected with the progress of + American colonization. For the discussion touching the river explored + by Weymouth, _vide Prince's Annals_, 1736, _in loco; Belknap's + American Biography_, 1794, Vol. II., art. Weymouth; _Remarks on the + Voyage of George Waymouth_, by John McKeen, Col. Me. His. Society, + Vol. V. p. 309; _Comments on Waymouth's Voyage_, by William Willis, + idem, p. 344; _Voyage of Captain George Weymouth_, by George Prince, + Col. Me. His. Soc., Vol. VI. p. 293; _Weymouth's Voyage_, by David + Cushman, _idem_, p. 369; _George Weymouth and the Kennebec_, by the + Rev. Edward Ballard, D. D., Memorial Volume of the Popham Celebration, + Portland, 1863, p. 301. + +176-1/2. _We headed east south-east_. It is possible that, on leaving the + mouth of the Kennebec, they sailed for a short distance to the + south-east; but the general course was to the north-east. + +177. _Cap Corneille_, or Crow Cape, was apparently the point of land + advancing out between Machias and Little Machias Bays, including + perhaps Cross Island. De Monts and his party probably anchored and + passed the night in Machias Bay. The position of Cap Corneille may be + satisfactorily fixed by its distance and direction from the Grand + Manan, as seen on Champlain's map of 1612, to which the reader is + referred. + +178. This anchorage was between Campobello and Moose Island, on which is + situated the town of Eastport. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +THE DWELLING-PLACE ON THE ISLAND OF ST. CROIX TRANSFERRED TO PORT ROYAL, +AND THE REASON WHY. + + +Sieur De Monts determined to change his location, and make another +settlement, in order to avoid the severe cold and the bad winter which we +had had in the Island of St. Croix. As we had not, up to that time, found +any suitable harbor, and, in view of the short time we had for building +houses in which to establish ourselves, we fitted out two barques, and +loaded them with the frame-work taken from the houses of St. Croix, in +order to transport it to Port Royal, twenty-five leagues distant, where we +thought the climate was much more temperate and agreeable. Pont Grave and I +set out for that place; and, having arrived, we looked for a site favorable +for our residence, under shelter from the north-west wind, which we +dreaded, having been very much harassed by it. + +After searching carefully in all directions, we found no place more +suitable and better situated than one slightly elevated, about which there +are some marshes and good springs of water. This place is opposite the +island at the mouth of the river Equille. [179] To the north of us about a +league, there is a range of mountains, [180] extending nearly ten leagues +in a north-east and south-west direction. The whole country is filled with +thick forests, as I mentioned above, except at a point a league and a half +up the river, where there are some oaks, although scattering, and many wild +vines, which one could easily remove and put the soil under cultivation, +notwithstanding it is light and sandy. We had almost resolved to build +there; but the consideration that we should have been too far up the harbor +and river led us to change our mind. + +Recognizing accordingly the site of our habitation as a good one, we began +to clear up the ground, which was full of trees, and to erect houses as +soon as possible. Each one was busy in this work. After every thing had +been arranged, and the majority of the dwellings built, Sieur de Monts +determined to return to France, in order to petition his Majesty to grant +him all that might be necessary for his undertaking. He had desired to +leave Sieur d'Orville to command in this place in his absence. But the +climatic malady, _mal de la terre_, with which he was afflicted would not +allow him to gratify the wish of Sieur de Monts. On this account, a +conference was held with Pont Grave on the subject, to whom this charge was +offered, which he was happy to accept; and he finished what little of the +habitation remained to be built. I, at the same time, hoping to have an +opportunity to make some new explorations towards Florida, determined to +stay there also, of which Sieur de Monts approved. + +ENDNOTES: + +179. In the original, Champlain has written the name of this river in this + particular instance _Guille_, probably an abbreviation for _Anguille_, + the French name of the fish which we call the eel. Lescarbot says the + "river was named _L'Equille_ because the first fish taken therein was + an _equille_."--Vide antea, note 57. + +180. The elevation of this range varies from six hundred to seven hundred + feet. + + + + +CHAPTER XI + +WHAT TOOK PLACE AFTER THE DEPARTURE OF SIEUR DE MONTS, UNTIL, NO TIDINGS OF +WHAT HE HAD PROMISED BEING RECEIVED, WE DEPARTED FROM PORT ROYAL TO RETURN +TO FRANCE. + + +As soon as Sieur de Monts had departed, a portion of the forty or +forty-five who remained began to make gardens. I, also, for the sake of +occupying my time, made one, which was surrounded with ditches full of +water, in which I placed some fine trout, and into which flowed three +brooks of very fine running water, from which the greater part of our +settlement was supplied. I made also a little sluice-way towards the shore, +in order to draw off the water when I wished. This spot was entirely +surrounded by meadows, where I constructed a summer-house, with some fine +trees, as a resort for enjoying the fresh air. I made there, also, a little +reservoir for holding salt-water fish, which we took out as we wanted them. +I took especial pleasure in it, and planted there some seeds which turned +out well. But much work had to be laid out in preparation. We resorted +often to this place as a pastime; and it seemed as if the little birds +round about took pleasure in it, for they gathered there in large numbers, +warbling and chirping so pleasantly that I think I never heard the like. + +The plan of the settlement was ten fathoms long and eight wide, making the +distance round thirty-six. On the eastern side is a store-house, occupying +the width of it, and a very fine cellar from five to six feet deep. On the +northern side are the quarters of Sieur de Monts, handsomely finished. +About the back yard are the dwellings of the workmen. At a corner of the +western side is a platform, where four cannon were placed; and at the other +corner, towards the east, is a palisade shaped like a platform, as can be +seen from the accompanying illustration. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +L'ABITASION DU PORT ROYAL. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. Dwelling of the artisans. +_B_. Platform where the cannon were placed. +_C_. The store-house. +_D_. Dwelling of Sieur de Pont Grave and Champlain. +_E_. The blacksmith's shop. +_F_. Palisade of pickets. +_G_. The bakery. +_H_. The kitchen. +_O_. Small house where the equipment of our barques was stored. This Sieur + de Poutrincourt afterwards had rebuilt, and Sieur Boulay dwelt there + when Sieur de Pont Grave returned to France. +_P_. Gate to our habitation. +_Q_. The Cemetery. +_R_. The River. + +NOTES. The habitation of Port Royal was on the present site of the hamlet +of Lower Granville in Nova Scotia. _I_. Points to the garden-plots. _K_. +Takes the place of _Q_, which is wanting on the map, and marks the place of +the cemetery, where may be seen the crucifix, the death's-head, and +cross-bones. _L_. Takes the place of _R_, which is wanting, to indicate the +river. _M_. Indicates the moat on the north side of the dwelling. _N_. +Probably indicates the dwelling of the gentlemen, De Monts and others. + + * * * * * + +Some days after the buildings were completed, I went to the river St. John +to find the savage named Secondon, the same that conducted Prevert's party +to the copper mine, which I had already gone in search of with Sieur de +Monts, when we were at the Port of Mines, though without success. [181] +Having found him, I begged him to go there with us, which he very readily +consented to do, and proceeded to show it to us. We found there some +little pieces of copper of the thickness of a sou, and others still thicker +imbedded in grayish and red rocks. The miner accompanying us, whose name +was Master Jacques, a native of Sclavonia, a man very skilful in searching +for minerals, made the entire circuit of the hills to see if he could find +any gangue, [182] but without success. Yet he found, some steps from where +we had taken the pieces of copper before mentioned, something like a mine, +which, however, was far from being one. He said that, from the appearance +of the soil, it might prove to be good, if it were worked; and that it was +not probable that there could be pure copper on the surface of the earth, +without there being a large quantity of it underneath. The truth is that, +if the water did not cover the mines twice a day, and if they did not lie +in such hard rocks, something might be expected from them. + +After making this observation, we returned to our settlement, where we +found some of our company sick with the _mal de la terre_, but not so +seriously as at the Island of St. Croix; although, out of our number of +forty-five, twelve died, including the miner, and five were sick, who +recovered the following spring. Our surgeon, named Des Champs, from +Honfleur, skilful in his profession, opened some of the bodies, to see +whether he might be more successful in discovering the cause of the +maladies that our surgeons had been the year before. He found the parts of +the body affected in the same manner as those opened at the Island of +St. Croix, but could discover no means of curing them, any more than the +other surgeons. + +On the 20th of December, it began to snow, and some ice passed along before +our Settlement. The winter was not so sharp as the year before, nor the +snow so deep, or of so long duration. Among other incidents, the wind was +so violent on the 20th of February, 1605, [183] that it blew over a large +number of trees, roots and all, and broke off many others. It was a +remarkable sight. The rains were very frequent; which was the cause of the +mild winter in comparison with the past one, although it is only +twenty-five leagues from Port Royal to St. Croix. + +On the first day of March, Pont Grave ordered a barque of seventeen or +eighteen tons to be fitted up, which was ready, on the 15th, in order to go +on a voyage of discovery along the coast of Florida. [184] With this view, +we set out on the 16th following, but were obliged to put in at an island +to the south of Manan, having gone that day eighteen leagues. We anchored +in a sandy cove, exposed to the sea and the south wind. [185] The latter +increased, during the night, to such an impetuosity that we could not stand +by our anchor, and were compelled, without choice, to go ashore, at the +mercy of God and the waves. The latter were so heavy and furious that while +we were attaching the buoy to the anchor, so as to cut the cable at the +hawse-hole, it did not give us time, but broke straightway of itself. The +wind and the sea cast us as the wave receded upon a little rock, and we +awaited only the moment to see our barque break up, and to save ourselves, +if possible, upon its fragments. In these desperate straits, after we had +received several waves, there came one so large and fortunate for us that +it carried us over the rock, and threw us on to a little sandy beach, which +insured us for this time from shipwreck. + +The barque being on shore, we began at once to unload what there was in +her, in order to ascertain where the damage was, which was not so great as +we expected. She was speedily repaired by the diligence of Champdore, her +master. Having been put in order, she was reloaded; and we waited for fair +weather and until the fury of the sea should abate, which was not until the +end of four days, namely, the 21st of March, when we set out from this +miserable place, and proceeded to Port aux Coquilles, [186] seven or eight +leagues distant. The latter is at the mouth of the river St. Croix, where +there was a large quantity of snow. We stayed there until the 29th of the +month, in consequence of the fogs and contrary winds, which are usual at +this season, when Pont Grave determined to put back to Port Royal, to see +in what condition our companions were, whom we had left there sick. Having +arrived there, Pont Grave was attacked with illness, which delayed us until +the 8th of April. + +On the 9th of the month he embarked, although still indisposed, from his +desire to see the coast of Florida, and in the belief that a change of air +would restore his health. The same day we anchored and passed the night at +the mouth of the harbor, two leagues distant from our settlement. + +The next morning before day, Champdore came to ask Pont Grave if he wished +to have the anchor raised, who replied in the affirmative, if he deemed the +weather favorable for setting out. Upon this, Champdore had the anchor +raised at once, and the sail spread to the wind, which was +north-north-east, according to his report. The weather was thick and rainy, +and the air full of fog, with indications of foul rather than fair weather. + +While going out of the mouth of the harbor, [187] we were suddenly carried +by the tide out of the passage, and, before perceiving them, were driven +upon the rocks on the east-north-east coast. [188] Pont Grave and I, who +were asleep, were awaked by hearing the sailors shouting and exclaiming, +"We are lost!" which brought me quickly to my feet, to see what was the +matter. Pont Grave was still ill, which prevented him from rising as +quickly as he wished. I was scarcely on deck, when the barque was thrown +upon the coast; and the wind, which was north, drove us upon a point. We +unfurled the mainsail, turned it to the wind, and hauled it up as high as +we could, that it might drive us up as far as possible on the rocks, for +fear that the reflux of the sea, which fortunately was falling, would draw +us in, when it would have been impossible to save ourselves. At the first +blow of our boat upon the rocks, the rudder broke, a part of the keel and +three or four planks were smashed, and some ribs stove in, which frightened +us, for our barque filled immediately; and all that we could do was to wait +until the sea fell, so that we might get ashore. For, otherwise, we were in +danger of our lives, in consequence of the swell, which was very high and +furious about us. The sea having fallen, we went on shore amid the storm, +when the barque was speedily unloaded, and we saved a large portion of the +provisions in her, with the help of the savage, Captain Secondon and his +companions, who came to us with their canoes, to carry to our habitation +what we had saved from our barque, which, all shattered as she was, went to +pieces at the return of the tide. But we, most happy at having saved our +lives, returned to our settlement with our poor savages, who stayed there a +large part of the winter; and we praised God for having rescued us from +this shipwreck, from which we had not expected to escape so easily. + +The loss of our barque caused us great regret, since we found ourselves, +through want of a vessel, deprived of the prospect of being able to +accomplish the voyage we had undertaken. And we were unable to build +another; for time was pressing, and although there was another barque on +the stocks, yet it would have required too long to get it ready, and we +could scarcely have made use of it before the return from France of the +vessels we were daily expecting. + +This was a great misfortune, and owing to the lack of foresight on the part +of the master, who was obstinate, but little acquainted with seamanship, +and trusting only his own head. He was a good carpenter, skilful in +building vessels, and careful in provisioning them with all necessaries, +but in no wise adapted to sailing them. + +Pont Grave, having arrived at the settlement, received the evidence against +Champdore, who was accused of having run the barque on shore with evil +intent. Upon such information, he was imprisoned and handcuffed, with the +intention of taking him to France and handing him over to Sieur de Monts, +to be treated as justice might direct. + +On the 15th of June, Pont Grave, finding that the vessels did not return +from France, had the handcuffs taken off from Champdore, that he might +finish the barque which was on the stocks, which service he discharged very +well. + +On the 16th of July, the time when we were to leave, in case the vessels +had not returned, as was provided in the commission which Sieur de Monts +had given to Pont Grave, we set out from our settlement to go to Cape +Breton or to Gaspe in search of means of returning to France, since we had +received no intelligence from there. + +Two of our men remained, of their own accord, to take care of the +provisions which were left at the settlement, to each of whom Pont Grave +promised fifty crowns in money, and fifty more which he agreed to estimate +their pay at when he should come to get them the following year. [189] + +There was a captain of the savages named Mabretou, [190] who promised to +take care of them, and that they should be treated as kindly as his own +children. We found him a friendly savage all the time we were there, +although he had the name of being the worst and most traitorous man of his +tribe. + +ENDNOTES: + +181. _Vide antea_, pp. 25, 26. + +182. _La gangue_. This is the technical word for the matrix, or substance + containing the ore of metals. + +183. For 1605, read 1606. + +184. Florida, as then known, extended from the peninsula indefinitely to + the north. + +185. Seal Cove, which makes up between the south-west end of the Grand + Manan and Wood Island, the latter being South of Manan and is plainly + the island referred to in the text. This cove is open to the South + wind and the sea in a storm. Wood Island has a sandy shore with + occasional rocks. + +186. _Port aux Coquilles_, the harbor of shells. This port was near the + northeastern extremity of Campobello Island, and was probably Head + Harbor, which affords a good harbor of refuge.--_Vide_ Champlain's Map + of 1612, reference 9. + +187. By "harbor" is here meant Annapolis Bay. This wreck of the barque took + place on the Granville side of Digby Strait, where the tides rise from + twenty-three to twenty-seven feet. + +188. North-east. The text has _norouest_, clearly a misprint for _nordest_. + +189. These two men were M. La Taille and Miquelet, of whom Lescarbot speaks + in terms of enthusiastic praise for their patriotic courage in + voluntarily risking their lives for the good of New France. _Vide + Histoire Nouvelle France_, Paris, 1612, pp. 545, 546. + +190. _Mabretou_, by Lescarbot written Membertou. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +DEPARTURE FROM PORT ROYAL TO RETURN TO FRANCE.--MEETING RALLEAU AT CAPE +SABLE, WHICH CAUSED US TO TURN BACK. + + +On the 17th of the month, in accordance with the resolution we had formed, +we set out from the mouth of Port Royal with two barques, one of eighteen +tons, the other of seven or eight, with the view of pursuing the voyage to +Cape Breton or Canseau. We anchored in the strait of Long Island,[191] +where during the night our cable broke, and we came near being lost, owing +to the violent tides which strike upon several rocky points in and about +this place. But, through the diligent exertions of all, we were saved, and +escaped once more. + +On the 21st of the month there was a violent wind, which broke the irons of +our rudder between Long Island and Cape Fourchu, and reduced us to such +extremities that we were at a loss what to do. For the fury of the sea did +not permit us to land, since the breakers ran mountain high along the +coast, so that we resolved to perish in the sea rather than to land, hoping +that the wind and tempest would abate, so that, with the wind astern, we +might go ashore on some sandy beach. As each one thought by himself what +might be done for our preservation, a sailor said that a quantity of +cordage attached to the stern of our barque, and dragging in the water, +might serve in some measure to steer our vessel. But this was of no avail; +and we saw that, unless God should aid us by other means, this would not +preserve us from shipwreck. As we were thinking what could be done for our +safety, Champdore, who had been again handcuffed, said to some of us that, +if Pont Grave desired it, he would find means to steer our barque. This we +reported to Pont Grave, who did not refuse this offer, and the rest of us +still less. He accordingly had his handcuffs taken off the second time, +and at once taking a rope, he cut it and fastened the rudder with it in +such a skilful manner that it would steer the ship as well as ever. In this +way, he made amends for the mistakes he had made leading to the loss of the +previous barque, and was discharged from his accusation through our +entreaties to Pont Grave who, although somewhat reluctantly, acceded to it. + +The same day we anchored near La Baye Courante, [192] two leagues from Cape +Fourchu, and there our barque was repaired. + +On the 23d of July, we proceeded near to Cape Sable. + +On the 24th of the month, at two o'clock in the afternoon, we perceived a +shallop, near Cormorant Island, coming from Cape Sable. Some thought it was +savages going away from Cape Breton or the Island of Canseau. Others said +it might be shallops sent from Canseau to get news of us. Finally, as we +approached nearer, we saw that they were Frenchmen, which delighted us +greatly. When it had almost reached us, we recognized Ralleau, the +Secretary of Sieur de Monts, which redoubled our joy. He informed us that +Sieur de Monts had despatched a vessel of a hundred and twenty tons, +commanded by Sieur de Poutrincourt, who had come with fifty men to act as +Lieutenant-General, and live in the country; that he had landed at Canseau, +whence the above-mentioned vessel had gone out to sea, in order, if +possible, to find us, while he, meanwhile, was proceeding along the coast +in a shallop, in order to meet us in case we should have set out, supposing +we had departed from Port Royal, as was in fact the case: in so doing, they +acted very wisely. All this intelligence caused us to turn back; and we +arrived at Port Royal on the 25th of the month, where we found the +above-mentioned vessel and Sieur de Poutrincourt, and were greatly +delighted to see realized what we had given up in despair. [193] He told us +that his delay had been caused by an accident which happened to the ship in +leaving the boom at Rochelle, where he had taken his departure, and that he +had been hindered by bad weather on his voyage. [194] + +The next day, Sieur de Poutrincourt proceeded to set forth his views as to +what should be done; and, in accordance with the opinion of all, he +resolved to stay at Port Royal this year, inasmuch as no discovery had been +made since the departure of Sieur de Monts, and the period of four months +before winter was not long enough to search out a site and construct +another settlement, especially in a large vessel, unlike a barque which +draws little water, searches everywhere, and finds places to one's mind for +effecting settlements. But he decided that, during this period, nothing +more should be done than to try to find some place better adapted for our +abode. [195] + +Thus deciding, Sieur de Poutrincourt despatched at once some laborers to +work on the land in a spot which he deemed suitable, up the river, a league +and a half from the settlement of Port Royal, and where we had thought of +making our abode. Here he ordered wheat, rye, hemp, and several other kinds +of seeds to be sown, in order to ascertain how they would flourish. [196] + +On the 22d of August, a small barque was seen approaching our settlement. +It was that of Des Antons, of St. Malo, who had come from Canseau, where +his vessel was engaged in fishing, to inform us that there were some +vessels about Cape Breton engaged in the fur-trade; and that, if we would +send our ship, we might capture them on the point of returning to +France. It was determined to do so as soon as some supplies, which were in +the ship, could be unloaded. [197] + +This being done. Pont Grave embarked, together with his companions, who had +wintered with him at Port Royal, excepting Champdore and Foulgere de Vitre. +I also stayed with De Poutrincourt, in order, with God's help, to complete +the map of the coasts and countries which I had commenced. Every thing +being put in order in the settlement. Sieur de Poutrincourt ordered +provisions to be taken on board for our voyage along the coast of Florida. + +On the 29th of August, we set out from Port Royal, as did also Pont Grave +and Des Antons, who were bound for Cape Breton and Canseau, to seize the +vessels which were engaging in the fur-trade, as I have before stated. +After getting out to sea, we were obliged to put back on account of bad +weather. But the large vessel kept on her course, and we soon lost sight of +her. + +ENDNOTES: + +191. Petit Passage, leading into St. Mary's Bay. + +192. _La Baye Courante_, the bay at the mouth of Argyl or Abuptic River, + sometimes called Lobster Bay.--_Vide Campbell's Yarmouth County_. + N.S., p. 13. The anchorage for the repair of the barque near this bay, + two leagues from Cape Fourchu, was probably near Pinckney Point, or it + may have been under the lee of one of the Tusquet Islands. + +193. Lescarbot, who with De Poutrincourt was in this vessel, the "Jonas," + gives a very elaborate account of their arrival and reception at Port + Royal. It seems that, at Canseau, Poutrincourt, supposing that the + colony at Port Royal, not receiving expected succors, had possibly + already embarked for France, as was in fact the case, had despatched a + small boat in charge of Ralleau to reconnoitre the coast, with the + hope of meeting them, if they had already embarked. The "Jonas" passed + them unobserved, perhaps while they were repairing their barque at + Baye Courante. As Ralleau did not join the "Jonas" till after their + arrival at Port Royal, Poutrincourt did not hear of the departure of + the colony till his arrival. Champlain's dates do not agree with those + of Lescarbot, and the latter is probably correct. According to + Lescarbot, Poutrincourt arrived on the 27th, and Pont Grave with + Champlain on the 31st of July. _Vide His. Nou. France_, Paris, 1612, + pp. 544, 547. + +194. Lescarbot gives a graphic account of the accident which happened to + their vessel in the harbor of Rochelle, delaying them more than a + month: and the bad weather and the bad seamanship of Captain Foulques, + who commanded the "Jonas," which kept them at sea more than two months + and a half.--_Vide His. Nou. France_, Paris. 1612, p. 523, _et seq._ + +195. Before leaving France, Poutrincourt had received instructions from the + patentee, De Monts to seek for a good harbor and more genial climate + for the colony farther south than Mallebarre, as he was not satisfied + either with St. Croix or Port Royal for a permanent abode.--_Vide + Lescarbot's His. Nou. France_, Paris, 1612, p. 552. + +196. By reference to Champlain's drawing of Port Royal, it will be seen + that the place of this agricultural experiment was on the southern + side of Annapolis River, near the mouth of Alien River, and on the + identical soil where the village of Annapolis now stands. + +197. It appears that this fur-trader was one Boyer, of Rouen, who had been + delivered from prison at Rochelle by Poutrincourt's lenity, where he + had been incarcerated probably for the same offence. They did not + succeed in capturing him at Canseau.--_Vide His. Nou. France_, par + Lescarbot, Paris, 1612, p. 553. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +SIEUR DE POUTRINCOURT SETS OUT FROM PORT ROYAL TO MAKE DISCOVERIES.--ALL +THAT WAS SEEN, AND WHAT TOOK PLACE AS FAR AS MALLEBARRE. + + +On the 5th of September, we set out again from Port Royal. + +On the 7th, we reached the mouth of the river St. Croix, where we found a +large number of savages, among others Secondon and Messamouet. We came +near being lost there on a rocky islet, on account of Champdore's usual +obstinacy. + +The next day we proceeded in a shallop to the Island of St. Croix, where +Sieur de Monts had wintered, to see if we could find any spikes of wheat +and other seeds which we had planted there. We found some wheat which had +fallen on the ground, and come up as finely as one could wish; also a large +number of garden vegetables, which also had come up fair and large. It gave +us great satisfaction to see that the soil there was good and fertile. + +After visiting the island, we returned to our barque, which was one of +eighteen tons, on the way catching a large number of mackerel, which are +abundant there at this season. It was decided to continue the voyage along +the coast, which was not a very well-considered conclusion, since we lost +much time in passing over again the discoveries made by Sieur de Monts as +far as the harbor of Mallebarre. It would have been much better, in my +opinion, to cross from where we were directly to Mallebarre, the route +being already known, and then use our time in exploring as far as the +fortieth degree, or still farther south, revisiting, upon our homeward +voyage, the entire coast at pleasure. + +After this decision, we took with us Secondon and Messamouet, who went as +far as Choueacoet in a shallop, where they wished to make an alliance with +the people of the country, by offering them some presents. + +On the 12th of September, we set out from the river St. Croix. + +On the 21st, we arrived at Choueacoet, where we saw Onemechin, chief of the +river, and Marchin, who had harvested their corn. We saw at the Island of +Bacchus [198] some grapes which were ripe and very good, and some others +not yet ripe, as fine as those in France; and I am sure that, if they were +cultivated, they would produce good wine. + +In this place. Sieur de Poutrincourt secured a prisoner that Onemechin had, +to whom Messamouet [199] made presents of kettles, hatchets, knives, and +other things. Onemechin reciprocated the same with Indian corn, squashes, +and Brazilian beans; which was not very satisfactory to Messamouet, who +went away very ill-disposed towards them for not properly recognizing his +presents, and with the intention of making war upon them in a short time. +For these nations give only in exchange for something in return, except to +those who have done them a special service, as by assisting them in their +wars. + +Continuing our course, we proceeded to the Island Cape, [200] where we +encountered rather bad weather and fogs, and saw little prospect of being +able to spend the night under shelter, since the locality was not favorable +for this. While we were thus in perplexity, it occurred to me that, while +coasting along with Sieur de Monts, I had noted on my map, at a distance of +a league from here, a place which seemed suitable for vessels, but which we +did not enter, because, when we passed it, the wind was favorable for +continuing on our course. This place we had already passed, which led me +to suggest to Sieur de Poutrincourt that we should stand in for a point in +sight, where the place in question was, which seemed to me favorable for +passing the night. We proceeded to anchor at the mouth, and went in the +next day. [201] + +Sieur de Poutrincourt landed with eight or ten of our company. We saw some +very fine grapes just ripe, Brazilian peas, [202] pumpkins, squashes, and +very good roots, which the savages cultivate, having a taste similar to +that of chards. [203] They made us presents of some of these, in exchange +for little trifles which we gave them. They had already finished their +harvest. We saw two hundred savages in this very pleasant place; and there +are here a large number [204] of very fine walnut-trees, [205] cypresses, +sassafras, oaks, ashes, and beeches. The chief of this place is named +Quiouhamenec, who came to see us with a neighbor of his, named Cohoueepech, +whom we entertained sumptuously. Onemechin, chief of Choueacoet, came also +to see us, to whom we gave a coat, which he, however, did not keep a long +time, but made a present of it to another, since he was uneasy in it, and +could not adapt himself to it. We saw also a savage here, who had so +wounded himself in the foot, and lost so much blood, that he fell down in a +swoon. Many others surrounded him, and sang some time before touching him. +Afterwards, they made some motions with their feet and hands, shook his +head and breathed upon him, when he came to himself. Our surgeon dressed +his wounds, when he went off in good spirits. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +LE BEAU PORT. [Note: _Le Beau Port_ is Gloucester.] + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. Place where our barque was. +_B_. Meadows. +_C_. Small island. [Note: Ten-Pound Island. It is forty rods long and + thirty feet high. On it is a U. S. Light, fifty feet above the + sea-level.] +_D_. Rocky cape. + +_E_. Place where we had our shallop calked. [Note: This peninsula is now + called Rocky Neck. Its southern part and the causeway which connects + it with the main land are now thickly settled.] +_F_. Little rocky islet, very high on the coast. [Note: This is Salt + Island.] +_G_. Cabins of the savages and where they till the soil. +_H_. Little river where there are meadows. [Note: This is the small stream + that flows into Fresh-Water Cove.] +_I_. Brook. +_L_. Tongue of land covered with trees, including a large number of + sassafras, walnut-trees, and vines. [Note: This is now called Eastern + Point, is three quarters of a mile long, and about half a mile in its + greatest width. At its southern extremity is a U. S. Light, sixty feet + above the sea-level. The scattering rocks figured by Champlain on its + western shore are now known as Black Bess.] +_M_. Arm of the sea on the other side of the Island Cape. [Note: Squam + River, flowing into Annisquam Harbor.] +_N_. Little River. +_O_. Little brook coming from the meadows. +_P_. Another little brook where we did our washing. +_Q_. Troop of savages coming to surprise us. [Note: They were creeping + along the eastern bank of Smith's Cove.] +_R_. Sandy strand. [Note: The beach of South-East Harbor.] +_S_. Sea-coast. +_T_. Sieur de Poutrincourt in ambuscade with some seven or eight + arquebusiers. +_V_. Sieur de Champlain discovering the savages. + +NOTES: A comparison of his map with the Coast Survey Charts will exhibit +its surprising accuracy, especially when we make allowance for the fact +that it is merely a sketch executed without measurements, and with a very +brief visit to the locality. The projection or cape west of Ten-Pound +Island, including Stage Head, may be easily identified, as likewise Fort +Point directly north of the same island, as seen on our maps, but +north-west on that of Champlain, showing that his map is oriented with an +inclination to the west. The most obvious defect is the foreshortening of +the Inner Harbor, which requires much greater elongation. + + * * * * * + +The next day, as we were calking our shallop, Sieur de Poutrincourt in the +woods noticed a number of savages who were going, with the intention of +doing us some mischief, to a little stream, where a neck connects with the +main land, at which our party were doing their washing. As I was walking +along this neck, these savages noticed me; and, in order to put a good face +upon it, since they saw that I had discovered them thus seasonably, they +began to shout and dance, and then came towards me with their bows, arrows, +quivers, and other arms. And, inasmuch as there was a meadow between them +and myself, I made a sign to them to dance again. This they did in a +circle, putting all their arms in the middle. But they had hardly +commenced, when they observed Sieur de Poutrincourt in the wood with eight +musketeers, which frightened them. Yet they did not stop until they had +finished their dance, when they withdrew in all directions, fearing lest +some unpleasant turn might be served them. We said nothing to them, +however, and showed them only demonstrations of gladness. Then we returned +to launch our shallop, and take our departure. They entreated us to wait a +day, saying that more than two thousand of them would come to see us. But, +unable to lose any time, we were unwilling to stay here longer. I am of +opinion that their object was to surprise us. Some of the land was already +cleared up, and they were constantly making clearings. Their mode of doing +it is as follows: after cutting down the trees at the distance of three +feet from the ground, they burn the branches upon the trunk, and then plant +their corn between these stumps, in course of time tearing up also the +roots. There are likewise fine meadows here, capable of supporting a large +number of cattle. This harbor is very fine, containing water enough for +vessels, and affording a shelter from the weather behind the islands. It is +in latitude 43 deg., and we gave it the name of Le Beauport. [206] + +The last day of September we set out from Beauport, and, passing Cap +St. Louis, stood on our course all night for Cap Blanc. [207] In the +morning, an hour before daylight we found ourselves to the leeward of Cap +Blanc, in Baye Blanche, with eight feet of water, and at a distance of a +league from the shore. Here we anchored, in order not to approach too near +before daylight, and to see how the tide was. Meanwhile, we sent our +shallop to make soundings. Only eight feet of water were found, so that it +was necessary to determine before daylight what we would do. The water sank +as low as five feet, and our barque sometimes touched on the sand, yet +without any injury, for the water was calm, and we had not less than three +feet of water under us. Then the tide began to rise, which gave us +encouragement. + +When it was day, we saw a very low, sandy shore, off which we were, and +more to the leeward. A shallop was sent to make soundings in the direction +of land somewhat high, where we thought there would be deep water; and, in +fact, we found seven fathoms. Here we anchored, and at once got ready the +shallop, with nine or ten men to land and examine a place where we thought +there was a good harbor to shelter ourselves in, if the wind should +increase. An examination having been made, we entered in two, three, and +four fathoms of water. When we were inside, we found five and six. There +were many very good oysters here, which we had not seen before, and we +named the place Port aux Huistres. [208] It is in latitude 42 deg. Three +canoes of savages came out to us. On this day, the wind coming round in our +favor, we weighed anchor to go to Cap Blanc, distant from here five leagues +north a quarter north-east, and we doubled the cape. + +On the next day, the 2d of October, we arrived off Mallebarre, [209] where +we stayed some time on account of the bad weather. During this time, Sieur +de Poutrincourt, with the shallop, accompanied by twelve or fifteen men, +visited the harbor, where some hundred and fifty savages, singing and +dancing according to their custom, appeared before him. After seeing this +place, we returned to our vessel, and, the wind coming favorable, sailed +along the coast towards the south. + +ENDNOTES: + +198. Richmond Island.--_Vide antea_, note 123. The ripe grapes which he saw + were the Fox Grape. _Vitis labrusca_, which ripens in September. The + fruit is of a dark purple color, tough and musky. The Isabella, common + in our markets, is derived from it. It is not quite clear whether + those seen in an unripe state were another species or not. If they + were, they were the Frost Grape, _Vitis cardifolia_, which are found + in the northern parts of New England. The berry is small, black or + blue, having a bloom, highly acid, and ripens after frosts. This + island, so prolific in grapes, became afterward a centre of commercial + importance. On Josselyn's voyage of 1638, he says: "The Six and + twentieth day, Capt. _Thomas Cammock_ went aboard of a Barke of 300 + Tuns, laden with Island Wine, and but 7 men in her, and never a Gun, + bound for Richmond's Island, Set out by Mr. _Trelaney, of Plimouth_"-- + _Voyages_, 1675, Boston, Veazie's ed., 1865, p. 12. + +199. Messamouet was a chief from the Port de la Heve, and was accompanied + by Secondon, also a chief from the river St. John. They had come to + Saco to dispose of a quantity of goods which they had obtained from + the French fur-traders. Messamouet made an address on the occasion, in + which he stated that he had been in France, and had been entertained + at the house of Mons. de Grandmont, governor of Bavonne.--_Vide + His. Nou. France_, par Lescarbot, Paris, 1612, p. 559, _et seq._ + +200. Cape Anne. + +201. Gloucester Bay, formerly called Cape Anne Harbor, which, as we shall + see farther on, they named _Beauport_, the beautiful harbor. + +202. Brazilian peas. This should undoubtedly read Brazilian beans. _Pois du + Bresil_ is here used apparently by mistake for _febues de Bresil_.-- + Vide antea, note 127. + +203. Chards, a vegetable dill, composed of the footstocks and midrib of + artichokes, cardoons, or white beets. The "very good roots," _des + racines qui font bonnes_, were Jerusalem Artichokes, _Helianthus + tuberofus_, indigenous to the northern part of this continent. The + Italians had obtained it before Champlain's time, and named it + _Girasole_, their word for sunflower, of which the artichoke is a + species. This word, _girasole_, has been singularly corrupted in + England into _Jerusalem_; hence Jerusalem artichoke, now the common + name of this plant. We presume that there is no instance on record of + its earlier cultivation in New England than at Nauset in 1605, _vide + antea_, p. 82, and here at Gloucester in 1606. + +204. Under the word _noyers_, walnut-trees, Champlain may have comprehended + the hickories, _Carya alba_ and _porcina_, and perhaps the butternut, + _Juglans cinerea_, all of which might have been seen at Gloucester. It + is clear from his description that he saw at Saco the hickory, _Carya + porcina_, commonly known as the pig-nut or broom hickory. He probably + saw likewise the shag bark, _Carya alba_, as both are found growing + wild there even at the present day.--_Vide antea_, p. 67. Both the + butternut and the hickories are exclusively of American origin; and + there was no French name by which they could be more accurately + designated. _Noyer_ is applied in France to the tree which produces + the nut known in our markets as the English walnut. Josselyn figures + the hickory under the name of walnut.--_Vide New Eng. Rarities_, + Tuckerman's ed., p. 97. See also _Wood's New Eng. Prospect_, 1634, + Prince Soc. ed., p. 18. + +205. The trees here mentioned are such probably as appeared to Champlain + especially valuable for timber or other practical uses. + + The cypress, _cypres_, has been already referred to in note 168. It is + distinguished for its durability, its power of resisting the usual + agencies of decay, and is widely used for posts, and sleepers on the + track of railways, and to a limited extent for cabinet work, but less + now than in earlier times. William Wood says of it: "This wood is more + desired for ornament than substance, being of color red and white, + like Eugh, smelling as sweet as Iuniper; it is commonly used for + seeling of houses, and making of Chests, boxes and staves."--_Wood's + New Eng. Prospect_, 1634, Prince Soc. ed., p. 19. + + The sassafras, _Sassafras officinate_, is indigenous to this + continent, and has a spicy, aromatic flavor, especially the bark and + root. It was in great repute as a medicine for a long time after the + discovery of this country. Cargoes of it were often taken home by the + early voyagers for the European markets; and it is said to have sold + as high as fifty livres per pound. Dr. Jacob Bigelow says a work + entitled "Sassafrasologia" was written to celebrate its virtues; but + its properties are only those of warm aromatics. Josselyn describes + it, and adds that it does not "grow beyond Black Point eastward," + which is a few miles north-east of Old Orchard Beach, near Saco, in + Maine. It is met with now infrequently in New England; several + specimens, however, may be seen in the Granary Burial Ground in + Boston. + + Oaks, _chesnes_, of which several of the larger species may have been + seen: as, the white oak, _Quercus alba_; black oak, _Quercus + tinfloria_; Scarlet oak, _Quercus coccinea_; and red oak, _Quercus + rubra_. + + Ash-trees, _fresnes_, probably the white ash, _Fraxinus Americana_, + and not unlikely the black ash, _Fraxinus sambucifolia_, both valuable + as timber. + + Beech-trees, _hestres_, of which there is but a single Species, _Fagus + ferruginca_, the American beech, a handsome tree, of symmetrical + growth, and clean, smooth, ash-gray bark: the nut, of triangular + shape, is sweet and palatable. The wood is brittle, and used only for + a few purposes. + +206. Le Beauport. The latitude of Ten-Pound Island, near where the French + barque was anchored in the Harbor of Gloucester, is 42 deg. 36' 5". + +207. The reader may be reminded that Cap St. Louis is Brant Point; Cap + Blanc is Cape Cod; and Baye Blanche is Cape Cod Bay. + +208. _Le Port aux Huistres_, Oyster Harbor. The reader will observe, by + looking back a few sentences in the narrative, that the French + coasters, after leaving Cap St. Louis, that is, Brant Point, had aimed + to double Cape Cod, and had directed their course, as they supposed, + to accomplish this purpose. Owing, however, to the strength of the + wind, or the darkness of the night, or the inattention of their pilot, + or all these together, they had passed to the leeward of the point + aimed at, and before morning found themselves near a harbor, which + they subsequently entered, in Cape Cod Bay. It is plain that this + port, which they named Oyster Harbor, was either that of Wellfleet or + Barnstable. The former, it will be remembered, Champlain, with De + Monts, entered the preceding year, 1605, and named it, or the river + that flows into it, St. Suzanne du Cap Blanc.--_Vide antea_, note + 166. It is obvious that Champlain could not have entered this harbor + the second time without recognizing it: and, if he had done so, he + would not have given to it a name entirely different from that which + he had given it the year before. He was too careful an observer to + fall into such an extraordinary mistake. We may conclude, therefore, + that the port in question was not Wellfleet, but Barnstable. This + conclusion is sustained by the conditions mentioned in the text. They + entered, on a flood-tide, in twelve, eighteen, and twenty-four feet of + water, and found thirty or thirty-six when they had passed into the + harbor. It could hardly be expected that any harbor among the shifting + sands of Cape Cod would remain precisely the same, as to depth of + water, after the lapse of two hundred and fifty years. Nevertheless, + the discrepancy is so slight in this case, that it would seem to be + accidental, rather than to arise from the solidity or fixedness of the + harbor-bed. The channel of Barnstable Harbor, according to the Coast + Survey Charts, varies in depth at low tide, for two miles outside of + Sandy Neck Point, from seven to ten feet for the first mile, and for + the next mile from ten feet to thirty-two on reaching Beach Point, + which may be considered the entrance of the bay. On passing the Point, + we have thirty-six and a half feet, and for a mile inward the depth + varies from twelve to twenty feet. Add a few feet for the rise of the + tide on which they entered, and the depth of the water in 1606 could + not have been very different from that of to-day. The "low sandy + coast" which they saw is well represented by Spring Hill Beach and + Sandy Neck; the "land somewhat high," by the range of hills in the + rear of Barnstable Harbor. The distance from the mouth of the harbor + to Wood End light, the nearest point on Cape Cod, does not vary more + than a league, and its direction is about that mentioned by + Champlain. The difference in latitude is not greater than usual. It is + never sufficiently exact for the identification of any locality. The + substantial agreement, in so many particulars with the narrative of + the author, renders it quite clear that the _Port aux Huistres_ was + Barnstable Harbor. They entered it on the morning of the 1st of + October, and appear to have left on the same day. Sandy Neck light, at + the entrance of the harbor, is in latitude 41 deg. 43' 19". + +209. Nauset Harbor. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +CONTINUATION OF THE ABOVE DISCOVERIES, AND WHAT WAS OBSERVED OF PARTICULAR +IMPORTANCE. + + +When we were some six leagues from Mallebarre, we anchored near the coast, +the wind not being fair, along which we observed columns of smoke made by +the savages, which led us to determine to go to them, for which purpose the +shallop was made ready. But when near the coast, which is sandy, we could +not land, for the swell was too great. Seeing this, the savages launched a +canoe, and came out to us, eight or nine of them, singing and making signs +of their joy at seeing us, and they indicated to us that lower down there +was a harbor where we could put our barque in a place of security. Unable +to land, the shallop came back to the barque; and the savages, whom we had +treated civilly, returned to the shore. + +On the next day, the wind being favorable, we continued our course to the +north [210] five leagues, and hardly had we gone this distance, when we +found three and four fathoms of water at a distance of a league and a half +from the shore. On going a little farther, the depth suddenly diminished +to a fathom and a half and two fathoms, which alarmed us, since we saw the +sea breaking all around, but no passage by which we could retrace our +course, for the wind was directly contrary. + +Accordingly being shut in among the breakers and sand-banks, we had to go +at hap-hazard where there seemed to be the most water for our barque, which +was at most only four feet: we continued among these breakers until we +found as much as four feet and a half. Finally, we succeeded, by the grace +of God, in going over a sandy point running out nearly three leagues +seaward to the south-south-east, and a very dangerous place. [211] Doubling +this cape, which we named Cap Batturier, [212] which is twelve or thirteen +leagues from Mallebarre, [213] we anchored in two and a half fathoms of +water, since we saw ourselves surrounded on all sides by breakers and +shoals, except in some places where the sea was breaking to go to a place, +which, we concluded to be that which the savages had indicated. We also +thought there was a river there, where we could lie in security. + +When our shallop arrived there, our party landed and examined the place, +and, returning with a savage whom they brought off, they told us that we +could enter at full tide, which was resolved upon. We immediately weighed +anchor, and, under the guidance of the savage who piloted us, proceeded to +anchor at a roadstead before the harbor, in six fathoms of water and a good +bottom; [214] for we could not enter, as the night overtook us. + +On the next day, men were sent to set stakes at the end of a sand-bank +[215] at the mouth of the harbor, when, the tide rising, we entered in two +fathoms of water. When we had arrived, we praised God for being in a place +of safety. Our rudder had broken, which we had mended with ropes; but we +were afraid that, amid these shallows and strong tides, it would break +anew, and we should be lost. Within this harbor [216] there is only a +fathom of water, and two at full tide. On the east, there is a bay +extending back on the north some three leagues, [217] in which there is an +island and two other little bays which adorn the landscape, where there is +a considerable quantity of land cleared up, and many little hills, where +they cultivate corn and the various grains on which they live. There are, +also, very fine vines, many walnut-trees, oaks, cypresses, but only a few +pines. [218] All the inhabitants of this place are very fond of +agriculture, and provide themselves with Indian corn for the winter, which +they store in the following manner:-- + +They make trenches in the sand on the slope of the hills, some five to six +feet deep, more or less. Putting their corn and other grains into large +grass sacks, they throw them into these trenches, and cover them with sand +three or four feet above the surface of the earth, taking it out as their +needs require. In this way, it is preserved as well as it would be possible +to do in our granaries. [219] + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +_PORT FORTUNE_. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. Pond of salt water. [Note: This is now called Oyster Pond.] +_B_. Cabins of the savages and the lands they cultivate. +_C_. Meadows where there are two little brooks. +_C_. Meadows on the island, that are covered at every tide. [Note: The + letter _C_ appears twice in the index, but both are wanting on the + map. The former seems to point to the meadows on the upper left-hand + corner: the other should probably take the place of the _O_ on the + western part of the island above _F_.] +_D_. Small mountain ranges on the island, that are covered with trees, + vines, and plum-trees. [Note: This range of hills is a marked feature + of the island.] +_E_. Pond of fresh water, where there is plenty of game. [Note: This pond + is still distinguished for its game, and is leased by gentlemen in + Boston and held as a preserve.] +_F_. A kind of meadow on the island. [Note: This is known as Morris Island; + but the strait on the north of it has been filled up, and the island + is now a part of the main land.] +_G_. An island covered with wood in a great arm of the sea. [Note: This + island has been entirely obliterated, and the neck on the north has + likewise been swept away, and the bay now extends several leagues + farther north. The destruction of the island was completed in 1851, in + the gale that swept away Minot's Light. In 1847, it had an area of + thirteen acres and an elevation of twenty feet.--_Vide Harbor + Com. Report_, 1873.] +_H_. A sort of pond of salt water, where there are many shell-fish, and, + among others, quantities of oysters. [Note: This is now called the + Mill Pond.] +_I_. Sandy downs on a narrow tongue of land. +_L_. Arm of the sea. +_M_. Roadstead before the harbor where we anchored. [Note: Chatham Roads, + or Old Stage Harbor.] +_N_. Entrance to the harbor. +_O_. The harbor and place where our barque was. +_P_. The cross we planted. +_Q_. Little brook. +_R_. Mountain which is seen at a great distance. [Note: A moderate + elevation, by no means a mountain in our sense of the word.] +_S_. Sea-shore. +_T_. Little river. +_V_. Way we went in their country among their dwellings: it is indicated by + small dots. [Note: The circuit here indicated is about four or five + miles. Another path is indicated in the same manner on the extreme + northern end of the map, which shows that their excursions had been + extensive.] +_X_. Banks and shoals. +_Y_. Small mountain seen in the interior. [Note: This is now called the + Great Chatham Hill, and is a conspicuous landmark.] +_Z_. Small brooks. +_9_. Spot near the cross where the savages killed our men. [Note: This is a + creek up which the tide sets. The other brook figured on the map a + little south of the cross has been artificially filled up, but the + marshes which it drained are still to be seen. These landmarks enable + us to fix upon the locality of the cross within a few feet.] + + * * * * * + +We saw in this place some five to six hundred savages, all naked except +their sexual parts, which they cover with a small piece of doe or +seal-skin. The women are also naked, and, like the men, cover theirs with +skins or leaves. They wear their hair carefully combed and twisted in +various ways, both men and women, after the manner of the savages of +Choueacoet. [220] Their bodies are well-proportioned, and their skin +olive-colored. They adorn themselves with feathers, beads of shell, and +other gewgaws, which they arrange very neatly in embroidery work. As +weapons, they have bows, arrows, and clubs. They are not so much great +hunters as good fishermen and tillers of the land. + +In regard to their police, government, and belief, we have been unable to +form a judgment; but I suppose that they are not different in this respect +from our savages, the Souriquois and Canadians, who worship neither the +moon nor the sun, nor any thing else, and pray no more than the beasts. +[221] There are, however, among them some persons, who, as they say, are in +concert with the devil, in whom they have great faith. They tell them all +that is to happen to them, but in so doing lie for the most part. Sometimes +they succeed in hitting the mark very well, and tell them things similar to +those which actually happen to them. For this reason, they have faith in +them, as if they were prophets; while they are only impostors who delude +them, as the Egyptians and Bohemians do the simple villagers. They have +chiefs, whom they obey in matters of war, but not otherwise, and who engage +in labor, and hold no higher rank than their companions. Each one has only +so much land as he needs for his support. + +Their dwellings are separate from each other, according to the land which +each one occupies. They are large, of a circular shape, and covered with +thatch made of grasses or the husks of Indian corn. [222] They are +furnished only with a bed or two, raised a foot from the ground, made of a +number of little pieces of wood pressed against each other, on which they +arrange a reed mat, after the Spanish style, which is a kind of matting two +or three fingers thick: on these they sleep. [223] They have a great many +fleas in summer, even in the fields. One day as we went out walking, we +were beset by so many of them that we were obliged to change our clothes. + +All the harbors, bays, and coasts from Choueacoet are filled with every +variety of fish, like those which we have before our habitation, and in +such abundance that I can confidently assert that there was not a day or +night when we did not see and hear pass by our barque more than a thousand +porpoises, which were chasing the smaller fry. There are also many +shell-fish of various sorts, principally oysters. Game birds are very +plenty. + +It would be an excellent place to erect buildings and lay the foundations +of a State, if the harbor were somewhat deeper and the entrance safer. +Before leaving the harbor, the rudder was repaired; and we had some bread +made from flour, which we had brought for our subsistence, in case our +biscuit should give out. Meanwhile, we sent the shallop with five or six +men and a savage to see whether a passage might be found more favorable for +our departure than that by which we had entered. + +After they had gone five or six leagues and were near the land, the savage +made his escape [224], since he was afraid of being taken to other savages +farther south, the enemies of his tribe, as he gave those to understand who +were in the shallop. The latter, upon their return, reported that, as far +as they had advanced, there were at least three fathoms of water, and that +farther on there were neither shallows nor reefs. + +We accordingly made haste to repair our barque, and make a supply of bread +for fifteen days. Meanwhile, Sieur de Poutrincourt, accompanied by ten or +twelve arquebusiers, visited all the neighboring country, which is very +fine, as I have said before, and where we saw here and there a large number +of little houses. + +Some eight or nine days after, while Sieur de Poutrincourt was walking out, +as he had previously done, [225] we observed the savages taking down their +cabins and sending their women, children, provisions, and other necessaries +of life into the woods. This made us suspect some evil intention, and that +they purposed to attack those of our company who were working on shore, +where they stayed at night in order to guard that which could not be +embarked at evening except with much trouble. This proved to be true; for +they determined among themselves, after all their effects had been put in a +place of security, to come and surprise those on land, taking advantage of +them as much as possible, and to carry off all they had. But, if by chance +they should find them on their guard, they resolved to come with signs of +friendship, as they were wont to do, leaving behind their bows and arrows. + +Now, in view of what Sieur de Poutrincourt had seen, and the order which it +had been told him they observed when they wished to play some bad trick, +when we passed by some cabins, where there was a large number of women, we +gave them some bracelets and rings to keep them quiet and free from fear, +and to most of the old and distinguished men hatchets, knives, and other +things which they desired. This pleased them greatly, and they repaid it +all in dances, gambols, and harangues, which we did not understand at all. +We went wherever we chose without their having the assurance to say any +thing to us. It pleased us greatly to see them; show themselves so simple +in appearance. + +We returned very quietly to our barque, accompanied by some of the savages. +On the way, we met several small troops of them, who gradually gathered +together with their arms, and were greatly astonished to see us so far in +the interior, and did not suppose that we had just made a circuit of nearly +four or five leagues about their territory. Passing near us, they trembled +with fear, lest harm should be done them, as it was in our power to do. But +we did them none, although we knew their evil intentions. Having arrived +where our men were working, Sieur de Poutrincourt inquired if every thing +was in readiness to resist the designs of this rabble. + +He ordered every thing on shore to be embarked. This was done, except that +he who was making the bread stayed to finish a baking, and two others with +him. They were told that the savages had some evil intent, and that they +should make haste to embark the coming evening, since they carried their +plans into execution only at night, or at daybreak, which in their plots is +generally the hour for making a surprise. + +Evening having come, Sieur de Poutrincourt gave orders that the shallop +should be sent ashore to get the men who remained. This was done as soon as +the tide would permit, and those on shore were told that they must embark +for the reason assigned. This they refused in spite of the remonstrances +that were made setting forth the risks they ran and the disobedience to +their chief. They paid no attention to it, with the exception of a servant +of Sieur de Poutrincourt, who embarked. Two others disembarked from the +shallop and went to the three on shore, who had stayed to eat some cakes +made at the same time with the bread. + +But, as they were unwilling to do as they were told, the shallop returned +to the vessel. It was not mentioned to Sieur de Poutrincourt, who had +retired, thinking that all were on board. + +The next day, in the morning, the 15th of October, the savages did not fail +to come and see in what condition our men were, whom they found asleep, +except one, who was near the fire. When they saw them in this condition, +they came, to the number of four hundred, softly over a little hill, and +sent them such a volley of arrows that to rise up was death. Fleeing the +best they could towards our barque, shouting, "Help! they are killing us!" +a part fell dead in the water; the others were all pierced with arrows, and +one died in consequence a short time after. The savages made a desperate +noise with roarings, which it was terrible to hear. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +THE ATTACK AT PORT FORTUNE. + +The figures indicate fathoms of water. + +_A_. Place where the French were making bread. +_B_. The savages surprising the French, and shooting their arrows at them. +_C_. French burned by the savages. +_D_. The French fleeing to the barque, completely covered with arrows. +_E_. Troops of savages burning the French whom they had killed. +_F_. Mountain bordering on the harbor. +_G_. Cabins of the savages. +_H_. French on the shore charging upon the savages. +_I_. Savages routed by the French. +_L_. Shallop in which were the French. +_M_. Savages around our shallop, who were surprised by our men. +_N_. Barque of Sieur de Poutrincourt. +_O_. The harbor. +_P_. Small brook. +_Q_. French who fell dead in the water as they were trying to flee to the + barque. +_R_. Brook coming from certain marshes. +_S_. Woods under cover of which the savages came. + + * * * * * + +Upon the occurrence of this noise and that of our men, the sentinel, on our +vessel, exclaimed, "To arms! They are killing our men!" Consequently, each +one immediately seized his arms; and we embarked in the shallop, some +fifteen or sixteen of us, in order to go ashore. But, being unable to get +there on account of a sand-bank between us and the land, we threw ourselves +into the water, and waded from this bank to the shore, the distance of a +musket-shot. As soon as we were there, the savages, seeing us within arrow +range, fled into the interior. To pursue them was fruitless, for they are +marvellously swift. All that we could do was to carry away the dead bodies +and bury them near a cross, which had been set up the day before, and then +to go here and there to see if we could get sight of any of them. But it +was time wasted, therefore we came back. Three hours afterwards, they +returned to us on the sea-shore. We discharged at them several shots from +our little brass cannon; and, when they heard the noise, they crouched down +on the ground to avoid the fire. In mockery of us, they beat down the cross +and disinterred the dead, which displeased us greatly, and caused us to go +for them a second time; but they fled, as they had done before. We set up +again the cross, and reinterred the dead, whom they had thrown here and +there amid the heath, where they kindled a fire to burn them. We returned +without any result, as we had done before, well aware that there was +scarcely hope of avenging ourselves this time, and that we should have to +renew the undertaking when it should please God. + +On the 16th of the month, we set out from Port Fortune, to which we had +given this name on account of the misfortune which happened to us there. +This place is in latitude 41 deg. 20', and some twelve or thirteen leagues from Mallebarre. [226] + +ENDNOTES: + +210. Clearly a mistake. Champlain here says they "continued their course + north," whereas, the whole context shows that they must have gone + south. + +211. "The sandy point" running out nearly three leagues was evidently the + island of Monomoy, or its representative, which at that time may have + been only a continuation of the main land. Champlain does not + delineate on his map an island, but a sand-bank nearly in the shape of + an isosceles triangle, which extends far to the south-east. Very great + changes have undoubtedly taken place on this part of the coast since + the visit of Champlain. The sand-bar figured by him has apparently + been swept from the south-east round to the south-west, and is perhaps + not very much changed in its general features except as to its + position. "We know from our studies of such shoals," says + Prof. Mitchell, Chief of Physical Hydrography, U. S. Coast Survey, + "that the relative order of banks and beaches remains about the same, + however the system as a whole may change its location."--_Mass. + Harbor Commissioners' Report_. 1873, p. 99. + +212. _Batturier_. This word is an adjective, formed with the proper + termination from the noun, _batture_, which means a bank upon which + the sea beats, reef or sand-bank. _Cap Batturier_ may therefore be + rendered sand-bank cape, or the cape of the sand-banks. _Batturier_ + does not appear in the dictionaries, and was doubtless coined by + Champlain himself, as he makes, farther on, the adjective _truitiere_, + in the expression _la riviere truitiere_, from the noun, _truite_. + +213. The distances here given appear to be greatly overstated. From Nauset + to the southern point of Monomoy, as it is to-day, the distance is not + more than six leagues. But, as the sea was rough, and they were + apparently much delayed, the distance might naturally enough be + overestimated. + +214. The anchorage was in Chatham Roads, or Old Stage Harbor. + +215. Harding's Beach Point. + +216. They were now in Stage Harbor, in Chatham, to which Champlain, farther + on gives the name of Port Fortune. + +217. This is the narrow bay that stretches from Morris Island to the north, + parallel with the sea, separated from it only by a sand-bank, and now + reaching beyond Chatham into the town of Orleans. By comparing + Champlain's map of Port Fortune with modern charts, it will be seen + that the "bay extending back on the north some three leagues" + terminated, in 1606, a little below Chatham Old Harbor. The island on + Champlain's map marked G. was a little above the harbor, but has been + entirely swept away, together with the neck north of it, represented + on Champlain's map as covered with trees. The bay now extends, as we + have stated above, into the town of Orleans. The island G, known in + modern times as Ram Island, disappeared in 1851, although it still + continued to figure on Walling's map of 1858: The two other little + bays mentioned in the text scarcely appear on Champlain's map; and he + may have inadvertently included in this bay the two that are farther + north, viz. Crow's Pond and Pleasant Bay, although they do not fall + within the limits of his map. + +218. _Vide antea_, notes 168, 204, 205. + +219. Indian corn, _Zea mays_, is a plant of American origin. Columbus saw + it among the natives of the West Indies, "a sort of grain they call + Maiz, which was well tasted, bak'd, or dry'd and made into flour."-- + _Vide History of the Life and Actions of Chris. Columbus by his Son + Ferdinand Columbus, Churchill's Voyages_, Vol. II. p. 510. + + It is now cultivated more or less extensively in nearly every part of + the world where the climate is suitable. Champlain is the first who + has left a record of the method of its cultivation in New England, + _vide antea_, p. 64, and of its preservation through the winter. The + Pilgrims, in 1620, found it deposited by the Indians in the ground + after the manner described in the text. Bradford says they found + "heaps of sand newly padled with their hands, which they, digging up, + found in them diverce faire Indean baskets filled with corne, and some + in eares, faire and good, of diverce collours, which seemed to them a + very goodly sight, haveing never seen any such before:"--_His. Plym. + Plantation_, p. 82. Squanto taught the English how to "set it, and + after how to dress and tend it"--_Idem_, p. 100. + + "The women," says Roger Williams, "set or plant, weede and hill, and + gather and barne all the corne and Fruites of the field," and of + drying the corn, he adds, "which they doe carefully upon heapes and + Mats many dayes, they barne it up, covering it up with Mats at night, + and opening when the Sun is hot." + + The following are testimonies as to the use made by the natives of the + Indian corn as food:-- + + "They brought with them in a thing like a Bow-case, which the + principall of them had about his wast, a little of their Corne + powdered to Powder, which put to a little water they eate."--_Mourts + Relation_, London, 1622, Dexter's ed., p. 88. + + "Giving us a kinde of bread called by them _Maizium_."--_Idem_, + p. 101. + + "They seldome or never make bread of their _Indian_ corne, but seeth + it whole like beanes, eating three or four cornes with a mouthfull of + fish or flesh, sometimes eating meate first and cornes after, filling + chinckes with their broth."--_Wood's New Eng. Prospect_, London, 1634. + Prince Society's ed., pp. 75, 76. + + "Nonkekich. _Parch'd meal_, which is a readie very wholesome, food, + which they eate with a little water hot or cold: ... With _spoonfull_ + of this _meale_ and a spoonfull of water from the _Brooke_, have I + made many a good dinner and supper."--_Roger Williams's Key_, London, + 1643, Trumbull's ed., pp. 39, 40. + + "Their food is generally boiled maize, or Indian corn, mixed with + kidney beans or Sometimes without.... Also they mix with the said + pottage several sorts of roots, as Jerusalem artichokes, and ground + nuts, and other roots, and pompions, and squashes, and also several + sorts of nuts or masts, as oak-acorns, chesnuts, walnuts: These husked + and dried, and powdered, they thicken their pottage therewith."-- + _Historical Collections of the Indians_, by Daniel Gookin, 1674, + Boston, 1792. p. 10. + +220. The character of the Indian dress, as here described, does not differ + widely from that of a later period.--_Vide Mourt's Relation_, 1622, + Dexter's ed., p. 135: _Roger Williams's Key_, 1643, Trumbull's ed., + p. 143, _et seq.; History of New England_, by Edward Johnson, 1654, + Poole's ed., pp. 224, 225. + + Champlain's observations were made in the autumn before the approach + of the winter frosts. + + Thomas Morton, writing in 1632, says that the mantle which the women + "use to cover their nakednesse with is much longer then that which the + men use; for as the men have one Deeres skinn, the women haue two soed + together at the full length, and it is so lardge that it trailes after + them, like a great Ladies trane, and in time," he sportively adds, "I + thinke they may have their Pages to beare them up."--_New Eng. + Canaan_, 1632, in Force's Tracts, Vol. II, p. 23. + +221. This conclusion harmonizes with the opinion of Thomas Morton, who says + that the natives of New England are "_sine fide, sine lege, et sine + rege_, and that they have no worship nor religion at all."--_New Eng. + Canaan_, 1632, in Force's Tracts, Vol. II. p. 21. + + Winslow was at first of the same opinion, but afterward saw cause for + changing his mind.--_Vide Winslow's Relation_, 1624, in Young's + Chronicles, P 355. See also _Roger Williams's Key_, Trumbull's ed., + p. 159. + +222. "Their houses, or wigwams," says Gookin, "are built with small poles + fixed in the ground, bent and fastened together with barks of trees, + oval or arborwise on the top. The best sort of their houses are + covered very neatly, tight, and warm with the bark of trees, stripped + from their bodies at such seasons when the sap is up; and made into + great flakes with pressures of weighty timbers, when they are green; + and so becoming dry, they will retain a form suitable for the use they + prepare them for. The meaner sort of wigwams are covered with mats + they make of a kind of bulrush, which are also indifferent tight and + warm, but not so good as the former."--_Vide Historical Collections_, + 1674, Boston, 1792, p. 9. + +223. The construction of the Indian couch, or bed, at a much later period + may be seen by the following excerpts: "So we desired to goe to rest: + he layd us on the bed with himselfe and his wife, they at one end and + we at the other, it being only plancks layd a foot from the ground, + and a thin mat upon them."--_Mourt's Relation_, London. 1622, Dexter's + ed., pp. 107, 108. "In their wigwams, they make a kind of couch or + mattresses, firm and strong, raised about a foot high from the earth; + first covered with boards that they split out of trees; and upon the + boards they spread mats generally, and sometimes bear skins and deer + skins. These are large enough for three or four persons to lodge upon: + and one may either draw nearer or keep at a more distance from the + heat of the fire, as they please; for their mattresses are six or + eight feet broad."--_Gookin's Historical Collections_, 1674, Boston, + 1792, p. 10. + +224. This exploration appears to have extended about as far as Point + Gammon, where, being "near the land," their Indian guide left them, as + stated in the text. + +225. On the map of Port Fortune, or Chatham, the course of one of these + excursions is marked by a dotted line, to which the reader is + referred.--_Vide_ notes on the map of Port Fortune. + +226. _Port Fortune_, perhaps here used, to signify the port of chance or + hazard; referring particularly to the dangers they encountered in + passing round Monomoy to reach it. The latitude of Stage Harbor in + Chatham is 41 deg. 40'. The distance from Mallebarre or Nauset to Port + Fortune, or Stage Harbor, by water round the Southern point of Monomoy + is at the present time about nine leagues. The distance may possibly + have been greater in 1606, or Champlain may have increased the + distance by giving a wide berth to Monomoy in passing round it. + + + + +CHAPTER XV. + +THE INCLEMENCY OF THE WEATHER NOT PERMITTING US AT THAT TIME TO CONTINUE +OUR DISCOVERIES, WE RESOLVED TO RETURN TO OUR SETTLEMENT. WHAT HAPPENED TO +US UNTIL WE REACHED IT. + + +After having gone some six or seven leagues, we sighted an island, which we +named La Soupconneuse, [227] because in the distance we had several times +thought it was not an island. Then the wind became contrary, which caused +us to put back to the place whence we had set out, where we stayed two or +three days, no savage during this time presenting himself to us. + +On the 20th, we set out anew and coasted along to the south-west nearly +twelve leagues, [228] where we passed near a river which is small and +difficult of access in consequence of the shoals and rocks at its mouth, +and which I called after my own name. [229] This coast is, so far as we +saw, low and sandy. The wind again grew contrary and very strong, which +caused us to put out to sea, as we were unable to advance on one tack or +the other; it, however, finally abated a little and grew favorable. But all +we could do was to return again to Port Fortune, where the coast, though +low, is fine and good, yet difficult of access, there being no harbors, +many reefs, and shallow water for the distance of nearly two leagues from +land. The most that we found was seven or eight fathoms in some channels, +which, however, continued only a cable's length, when there were suddenly +only two or three fathoms; but one should not trust the water who has not +well examined the depth with the lead in hand. + +Some hours after we had returned to port, a son of Pont Grave, named +Robert, lost a hand in firing a musket, which burst in several pieces, but +without injuring any one near him. + +Seeing now the wind continuing contrary, and being unable to put to sea, we +resolved meanwhile to get possession of some savages of this place, and, +taking them to our settlement, put them to grinding corn at the hand-mill, +as punishment for the deadly assault which they had committed on five or +six of our company. But it was very difficult to do this when we were +armed, since, if we went to them prepared to fight, they would turn and +flee into the woods, where they were not to be caught. It was necessary, +accordingly, to have recourse to artifice, and this is what we planned: +when they should come to seek friendship with us, to coax them by showing +them beads and other gewgaws, and assure them repeatedly of our good faith; +then to take the shallop well armed, and conduct on shore the most robust +and strong men we had, each one having a chain of beads and a fathom of +match on his arm; [230] and there, while pretending to smoke with them +(each one having an end of his match lighted so as not to excite suspicion, +it being customary to have fire at the end of a cord in order to light the +tobacco), coax them with pleasing words so as to draw them into the +shallop; and, if they should be unwilling to enter, each one approaching +should choose his man, and, putting the beads about his neck, should at the +same time put the rope on him to draw him by force. But, if they should be +too boisterous, and it should not be possible to succeed, they should be +stabbed, the rope being firmly held; and, if by chance any of them should +get away, there should be men on land to charge upon them with swords. +Meanwhile, the little cannon on our barque were to be kept ready to fire +upon their companions in case they should come to assist them, under cover +of which firearms the shallop could withdraw in security. The plan +above-mentioned was well carried out as it had been arranged. + +Some days after these events had transpired, there came savages by threes +and fours to the shore, making signs to us to go to them. But we saw their +main body in ambuscade under a hillock behind some bushes, and I suppose +that they were only desirous of beguiling us into the shallop in order to +discharge a shower of arrows upon us, and then take to flight. +Nevertheless, Sieur de Poutrincourt did not hesitate to go to them with ten +of us, well equipped and determined to fight them, if occasion offered. We +landed at a place beyond their ambuscade, as we thought, and where they +could not surprise us. There three or four of us went ashore together with +Sieur de Poutrincourt: the others did not leave the shallop, in order to +protect it and be ready for an emergency. We ascended a knoll and went +about the woods to see if we could not discover more plainly the ambuscade. +When they saw us going so unconcernedly to them, they left and went to +other places, which we could not see, and of the four savages we saw only +two, who went away very slowly. As they withdrew, they made signs to us to +take our shallop to another place, thinking that it was not favorable for +the carrying out of their plan. And, when we also saw that they had no +desire to come to us, we re-embarked and went to the place they indicated, +which was the second ambuscade they had made, in their endeavor to draw us +unarmed to themselves by signs of friendship. But this we were not +permitted to do at that time, yet we approached very near them without +seeing this ambuscade, which we supposed was not far off. As our shallop +approached the shore, they took to flight, as also those in ambush, after +whom we fired some musket-shots, since we saw that their intention was only +to deceive us by flattery, in which they were disappointed; for we +recognized clearly what their purpose was, which had only mischief in view. +We retired to our barque after having done all we could. + +On the same day, Sieur de Poutrincourt resolved to return to our settlement +on account of four or five sick and wounded men, whose wounds were growing +worse through lack of salves, of which our surgeon, by a great mistake on +his part, had brought but a small provision, to the detriment of the sick +and our own discomfort, as the stench from their wounds was so great, in a +little vessel like our own, that one could scarcely endure it. Moreover, we +were afraid that they would generate disease. Also we had provisions only +for going eight or ten days farther, however much economy might be +practised; and we knew not whether the return would last as long as the +advance, which was nearly two months. + +At any rate, our resolution being formed, we withdrew, but with the +satisfaction that God had not left unpunished the misdeeds of these +barbarians. [231] We advanced no farther than to latitude 41 deg. 30', which +was only half a degree farther than Sieur de Monts had gone on his voyage +of discovery. We set out accordingly from this harbor. [232] + +On the next day, we anchored near Mallebarre, where we remained until the +28th of the month, when we set sail. On that day the air was very cold, +and there was a little snow. We took a direct course for Norumbegue or +Isle Haute. Heading east-north-east, we were two days at sea without +seeing land, being kept back by bad weather. On the following night, we +sighted the islands, which are between Quinibequy and Norumbegue. [233] +The wind was so strong that we were obliged, to put to sea until daybreak; +but we went so far from land, although we used very little sail, that we +could not see it again until the next day, when we saw Isle Haute, of which +we were abreast. + +On the last day of October, between the Island of Monts Deserts and Cap +Corneille, [234] our rudder broke in several pieces, without our knowing +the reason. Each one expressed his opinion about it. On the following +night, with a fresh breeze, we came among a large number of islands and +rocks, whither the wind drove us; and we resolved to take refuge, if +possible, on the first land we should find. + +We were for some time at the mercy of the wind and sea, with only the +foresail set. But the worst of it was that the night was dark, and we did +not know where we were going; for our barque could not be steered at all, +although we did all that was possible, holding in our hands the sheets of +the foresail, which sometimes enabled us to steer it a little. We kept +continually sounding, to see if it were possible to find a bottom for +anchoring, and to prepare ourselves for what might happen. But we found +none. Finally, as we were going faster than we wished, it was recommended +to put an oar astern together with some men, so as to steer to an island +which we saw, in order to shelter ourselves from the wind. Two other oars +also were put over the sides in the after part of the barque, to assist +those who were steering, in order to make the vessel bear up on one tack +and the other. This device served us so well, that we headed where we +wished, and ran in behind the point of the island we had seen, anchoring in +twenty-one fathoms of water until daybreak, when we proposed to reconnoitre +our position and seek for a place to make another rudder. The wind abated. +At daybreak, we found ourselves near the Isles Rangees, [235] entirely +surrounded by breakers, and we praised God for having preserved us so +wonderfully amid so many perils. + +On the 1st of November, we went to a place which we deemed favorable for +beaching our vessel and repairing our helm. On this day, I landed, and saw +some ice two inches thick, it having frozen perhaps eight or ten days +before. I observed also that the temperature of the place differed very +much from that of Mallebarre and Port Fortune; for the leaves of the trees +were not yet dead, and had not begun to fall when we set out, while here +they had all fallen, and it was much colder than at Port Fortune. + +On the next day, as we were beaching our barque, a canoe came containing +Etechemin savages, who told the savage Secondon in our barque that +Iouaniscou, with his companions, had killed some other savages, and carried +off some women as prisoners, whom they had executed near the Island of +Monts Deserts. + +On the 9th of the month, we set out from near Cap Corneille, and anchored +the same day in the little passage [236] of Sainte Croix River. + +On the morning of the next day, we landed our savage with some supplies +which we gave him. He was well pleased and satisfied at having made this +voyage with us, and took away with him some heads of the savages that had +been killed at Port Fortune. [237] The same day we anchored in a very +pretty cove [238] on the south of the Island of Manan. + +On the 12th of the month, we made sail; and, when under way, the shallop, +which we were towing astern, struck against our barque so violently and +roughly that it made an opening and stove in her upper works, and again in +the recoil broke the iron fastenings of our rudder. At first, we thought +that the first blow had stove in some planks in the lower part, which would +have sunk us; for the wind was so high that all we could do was to carry +our foresail. But finding that the damage was slight, and that there was no +danger, we managed with ropes to repair the rudder as well as we could, so +as to serve us to the end of our voyage. This was not until the 14th of +November, when, at the entrance to Port Royal, we came near being lost on a +point; but God delivered us from this danger as well as from many others to +which we had been exposed. [239] + + +ENDNOTES: + +227. _La Soupconneuse_, the doubtful, Martha's Vineyard. Champlain and + Poutrincourt, in the little French barque, lying low on the water, + creeping along the shore from Chatham to Point Gammon, could hardly + fail to be doubtful whether Martha's Vineyard were an island or a part + of the main land. Lescarbot, speaking of it, says, _et fut appelee + l'Ile Douteuse_. + +228. Nearly twelve leagues in a southwesterly direction from their + anchorage at Stage Harbor in Chatham would bring them to Nobska Point, + at the entrance of the Vineyard Sound. This was the limit of + Champlain's explorations towards the south. + +229. "Called after my own name." viz. _Riviere de Champlain_.--_Vide_ map, + 1612. This river appears to be a tidal passage connecting the Vineyard + Sound and Buzzard's Bay, having Nouamesset and Uncatena Islands on the + south-west, and Nobska Point, Wood's Boll, and Long Neck on the + north-east. On our Coast Survey Charts, it is called Hadley River. Its + length is nearly two miles, in a winding course. The mouth of this + passage is full of boulders, and in a receding tide the current is + rough and boisterous, and would answer well to the description in the + text, as no other river does on the coast from Chatham to Wood's + Holl. On the small French barque, elevated but a little above the + surface of the water, its source in Buzzard's Bay could not be + discovered, especially if they passed round Nobska Point, under the + lee of which they probably obtained a view of the "shoals, and rocks" + which they saw at the mouth of the river. + +230. _A fathom of match on his arm_. This was a rope, made of the tow of + hemp or flax, loosely twisted, and prepared to retain the fire, so + that, when once lighted, it would burn till the whole was consumed. It + was employed in connection with the match-lock, the arm then in common + use. The wheel-lock followed in order of time, which was discharged by + means of a notched wheel of steel, so arranged that its friction, when + in motion, threw sparks of fire into the pan that contained the + powder. The snaphance was a slight improvement upon the wheel-lock. + The flint-lock followed, now half a century since superseded by the + percussion lock and cap. + +231. They did not capture any of the Indians, to be reduced to a species of + slavery, as they intended; but, as will appear further on, inhumanly + butchered several of them, which would seem to have been an act of + revenge rather than of punishment. The intercourse of the French with + the natives of Cape Cod was, on the whole, less satisfactory than that + with the northern tribes along the shores of Maine, New Brunswick, and + Nova Scotia. With the latter they had no hostile conflicts whatever, + although the Indians were sufficiently implacable and revengeful + towards their enemies. Those inhabiting the peninsula of Cape Cod, and + as far north as Cape Anne, were more suspicious, and had apparently + less clear conceptions of personal rights, especially the rights of + property. Might and right were to them identical. Whatever they + desired, they thought they had a right to have, if they had the power + or wit to obtain it. The French came in contact with only two of the + many subordinate tribes that were in possession of the peninsula; + viz., the Monomoyicks at Chatham, and the Nausets at Eastham. The + conflict in both instances grew out of an attempt on the part of the + natives to commit a petty theft. But it is quite possible that the + invasion of their territory by strangers, an unpardonable offence + among civilized people, may have created a feeling of hostility that + found a partial gratification in stealing their property; and, had not + this occasion offered, the stifled feeling of hostility may have + broken out in some other form. In general, they were not subsequently + unfriendly in their intercourse with the English. The Nausets were, + however, the same that sent a shower of arrows upon the Pilgrims in + 1620, at the place called by them the "First Encounter," and not more + than three miles from the spot where the same tribe, in 1605, had + attacked the French, and Slain one of De Monts's men. It must, + however, be said that, beside the invasion of their country, the + Pilgrims had, some days before, rifled the granaries of the natives + dwelling a few miles north of the Nausets, and taken away without + leave a generous quantity of their winter's supply of corn; and this + may have inspired them with a desire to be rid of visitors who helped + themselves to their provisions, the fruit of their summer's toil, + their dependence for the winter already upon them, with so little + ceremony and such unscrupulous selfishness; for such it must have + appeared to the Nausets in their savage and unenlightened state. It is + to be regretted that these excellent men, the Pilgrims, did not more + fully comprehend the moral character of their conduct in this + instance. They lost at the outset a golden opportunity for impressing + upon the minds of the natives the great practical principle enunciated + by our Lord, the foundation of all good neighborhood, [Greek: Panta + oun osa an thelaete ina poiosin hymin hoi anthropoi, houto kai hymeis + poieite autois. Matth]. vii 12.--_Vide Bradford's Hist. Plym. + Plantation_, pp. 82, 83; _Mourt's Relation_, London, 1622, Dexter's + ed., pp. 21, 22, 30, 31, 55. + +232. The latitude of Nobska Point, the most southern limit of their voyage, + is 41 deg. 31', while the latitude of Nauset Harbor, the southern limit of + that of De Monts on the previous year, 1605, is 41 deg. 49'. They + consequently advanced but 18', or eighteen nautical miles, further + south than they did the year before. Had they commenced this year's + explorations where those of the preceding terminated, as Champlain had + advised, they might have explored the whole coast as far as Long + Island Sound. _Vide antea_, pp. 109, 110. + +233. Between the Kennebec and Penobscot. + +234. _Vide antea_, note 177. + +235. _Isles Rangees_, the small islands along the coast south-west of + Machias. _Vide_ map of 1612. + +236. _Petit passage de la Riviere Saincte Croix_, the southern strait + leading into Eastport Harbor. This anchorage appears to have been in + Quoddy Roads between Quoddy Head and Lubeck. + +237. In reporting the stratagem resorted to for decoying the Indians into + the hands of the French at Port Fortune, Champlain passes over the + details of the bloody encounter, doubtless to spare himself and the + reader the painful record; but its results are here distinctly + stated. Compare _antea_, pp. 132, 133. + +238. Sailing from Quoddy Head to Annapolis Bay, they would in their course + pass round the northern point of the Grand Manan; and they probably + anchored in Whale Cove, or perhaps in Long Island Bay, a little + further south. Champlain's map is so oriented that both of these bays + would appear to be on the south of the Grand Manan. _Vide_ map of + 1612. + +239. Champlain had now completed his survey south of the Bay of Fundy. He + had traced the shore-line with its sinuosities and its numberless + islands far beyond the two distinguished headlands, Cape Sable and + Cape Cod, which respectively mark the entrance to the Gulf of Maine. + The priority of these observations, particularly with reference to the + habits, mode of life, and character of the aborigines, invests them + with an unusual interest and value. Anterior to the visits of + Champlain, the natives on this coast had come in contact with + Europeans but rarely and incidentally, altogether too little + certainly, if we except those residing on the southern coast of Nova + Scotia, to have any modifying effect upon their manners, customs, or + mode of life. What Champlain reports, therefore, of the Indians, is + true of them in their purely savage state, untouched by any influences + of European civilization. This distinguishes the record, and gives to + it a special importance. + + + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +RETURN FROM THE FOREGOING DISCOVERIES, AND WHAT TRANSPIRED DURING THE +WINTER. + +Upon our arrival, Lescarbot, who had remained at the settlement, assisted +by the others who had stayed there, welcomed us with a humorous +entertainment. [240] + +Having landed and had time to take breath, each one began to make little +gardens, I among the rest attending to mine, in order in the spring to sow +several kinds of seeds which had been brought from France, and which grew +very well in all the gardens. + +Sieur de Poutrincourt, moreover, had a water-mill built nearly a league and +a half from our settlement, near the point where grain had been planted. +This mill [241] was built at a fall, on a little river which is not +navigable on account of the large number of rocks in it, and which falls +into a small lake. In this place, there is such an abundance of herring in +their season that shallops could be loaded with them, if one were to take +the trouble to bring the requisite apparatus. The savages also of this +region come here sometimes to fish. A quantity of charcoal was made by us +for our forge. During the winter, in order not to remain idle, I undertook +the building of a road along the wood to a little, river or brook, which we +named La Truitiere, [242] there being many trout there. I asked Sieur de +Poutrincourt for two or three men, which he gave me to assist in making +this passage-way. I got along so well that in a little while I had the road +through. It extends through to trout-brook, and measures nearly two +thousand paces. It served us as a walk under the shelter of the trees, +which I had left on both sides. This led Sieur de Poutrincourt to determine +to make another through the woods, in order that we might go straight to +the mouth of Port Royal, it being a distance of nearly three leagues and a +half by land from our settlement. He had this commenced and continued for +about half a league from La Truitiere; but he did not finish it, as the +undertaking was too laborious, and he was occupied by other things at the +time more necessary. Some time after our arrival, we saw a shallop +containing savages, who told us that a savage, who was one of our friends, +had been killed by those belonging to the place whence they came, which was +Norumbegue, in revenge for the killing of the men of Norumbegue and +Quinibequy by Iouaniscou, also a savage, and his followers, as I have +before related; and that some Etechemins had informed the savage Secondon, +who was with us at that time. + +The commander of the shallop was the savage named Ouagimou, who was on +terms of friendship with Bessabez, chief of the river Norumbegue, of whom +he asked the body of Panounias, [243] who had been killed. The latter +granted it to him, begging him to tell his friends that he was very sorry +for his death, and assuring him that it was without his knowledge that he +had been killed, and that, inasmuch as it was not his fault, he begged him +to tell them that he desired they might continue to live as friends. This +Ouagimou promised to do upon his return. He said to us that he was very +uneasy until he got away from them, whatever friendship they might show +him, since they were liable to change; and he feared that they would treat +him in the same manner as they had the one who had been killed. +Accordingly, he did not tarry long after being dismissed. He took the body +in his shallop from Norumbegue to our settlement, a distance of fifty +leagues. + +As soon as the body was brought on shore, his relatives and friends began +to shout by his side, having painted their entire face with black, which is +their mode of mourning. After lamenting much, they took a quantity of +tobacco and two or three dogs and other things belonging to the deceased, +and burned them some thousand paces from our settlement on the +sea-shore. Their cries continued until they returned to their cabin. + +The next day they took the body of the deceased and wrapped it in a red +covering, which Mabretou, chief of this place, urgently implored me to give +him, since it was handsome and large. He gave it to the relatives of the +deceased, who thanked me very much for it. After thus; wrapping up the +body, they decorated it with several kinds of _matachiats_; that is, +strings of beads and bracelets of diverse colors. They painted the face, +and put on the head many feathers and other things, the finest they had. +Then they placed the body on its knees between two sticks, with another +under the arms to sustain it. Around the body were the mother, wife, and +others of the relatives and friends of the deceased, both women and girls, +howling like dogs. + +While the women and girls were shrieking, the savage named Mabretou made an +address to his companions on the death of the deceased, urging all to take +vengeance for the wickedness and treachery committed by the subjects of +Bessabez, and to make war upon them as speedily as possible. All agreed to +do so in the spring. + +After the harangue was finished and the cries had ceased, they carried the +body of the deceased to another cabin. After smoking tobacco together, +they wrapped it in an elk-skin likewise; and, binding it very securely, +they kept it until there should be a larger number of savages present, from +each one of whom the brother of the deceased expected to receive presents, +it being their custom to give them to those who have lost fathers, mothers, +wives, brothers, or sisters. + +On the night of the 26th of December, there was a southeast wind, which +blew down several trees. On the last day of December, it began to snow, +which continued until the morning of the next day. On the both of January +following, 1607, Sieur de Poutrincourt, desiring to ascend the river +Equille, [244] found it at a distance of some two leagues from our +settlement sealed with ice, which caused him to return, not being able to +advance any farther. On the 8th of February, some pieces of ice began to +flow down from the upper part of the river into the harbor, which only +freezes along the shore. On the both of May following, it snowed all night; +and, towards the end of the month, there were heavy hoar-frosts, which +lasted until the 10th or 12th of June, when all the trees were covered with +leaves, except the oaks, which do not leaf out until about the 15th. The +winter was not so severe as on the preceding years, nor did the snow +continue so long on the ground. It rained very often, so that the savages +suffered a severe famine, owing to the small quantity of snow. Sieur de +Poutrincourt supported a part of them who were with us; namely, Mabretou, +his wife and children, and some others. + +We spent this winter very pleasantly, and fared generously by means of the +ORDRE DE BON TEMPS, which I introduced. This all found useful for their +health, and more advantageous than all the medicines that could have been +used. By the rules of the order, a chain was put, with some little +ceremonies, on the neck of one of our company, commissioning him for the +day to go a-hunting. The next day it was conferred upon another, and thus +in succession. All exerted themselves to the utmost to see who would do the +best and bring home the finest game. We found this a very good arrangement, +as did also the savages who were with us. [245] + +There were some cases of _mal de la terre_ among us, which was, however, +not so violent as in the previous years. Nevertheless, seven died from it, +and another from an arrow wound, which he had received from the savages at +Port Fortune. [246] + +Our surgeon, named Master Estienne, opened some of the bodies, as we did +the previous years, and found almost all the interior parts affected. Eight +or ten of the sick got well by spring. + +At the beginning of March and of April, all began to prepare gardens, so as +to plant seeds in May, which is the proper time for it. They grew as well +as in France, but were somewhat later. I think France is at least a month +and a half more forward. As I have stated, the time to plant is in May, +although one can sometimes do so in April; yet the seeds planted then do +not come forward any faster than those planted in May, when the cold can no +longer damage the plants except those which are very tender, since there +are many which cannot endure the hoar-frosts, unless great care and +attention be exercised. + +On the 24th of May, we perceived a small barque [247] of six or seven tons' +burthen, which we sent men to reconnoitre; and it was found to be a young +man from St. Malo, named Chevalier, who brought letters from Sieur de Monts +to Sieur de Poutrincourt, by which he directed him to bring back his +company to France. [248] He also announced to us the birth of Monseigneur, +the Duke of Orleans, to our delight, in honor of which event we made +bonfires and chanted the _Te Deum_. [249] + +Between the beginning and the 20th of June, some thirty or forty savages +assembled in this place in order to make war upon the Almouchiquois, and +revenge the death of Panounias, who was interred by the savages according +to their custom, who gave afterwards a quantity of peltry to a brother of +his.[250] The presents being made, all of them set out from this place on +the 29th of June for Choueacoet, which is the country of the Almouchiquois, +to engage in the war. + +Some days after the arrival of the above Chevalier, Sieur de Poutrincourt +sent him to the rivers St. John [251] and St. Croix [252] to trade for +furs. But he did not permit him to go without men to bring back the barque, +since some had reported that he desired to return to France with the vessel +in which he had come, and leave us in our settlement. Lescarbot was one of +those who accompanied him, who up to this time had not left Port Royal. +This is the farthest he went, only fourteen or fifteen leagues beyond Port +Royal. + +While awaiting the return of Chevalier, Sieur de Poutrincourt went to the +head of Baye Francoise in a shallop with seven or eight men. Leaving the +harbor and heading northeast a quarter east for some twenty-five leagues +along the coast, we arrived at a cape where Sieur de Poutrincourt desired +to ascend a cliff more than thirty fathoms high, in doing which he came +near losing his life. For, having reached the top of the rock which is very +narrow, and which he had ascended with much difficulty, the summit trembled +beneath him. The reason was that, in course of time, moss had gathered +there four or five feet in thickness, and, not being solid, trembled when +one was on top of it, and very often when one stepped on a stone three or +four others fell down. Accordingly, having gone up with difficulty, he +experienced still greater in coming down, although some sailors, men very +dexterous in climbing, carried him a hawser, a rope of medium size, by +means of which he descended, This place was named Cap de Poutrincourt, +[253] and is in latitude 45 deg. 40'. + +We went as far as the head of this bay, but saw nothing but certain white +stones suitable for making lime, yet they are found only in small +quantities. We saw also on some islands a great number of gulls. We +captured as many of them as we wished. We made the tour of the bay, in +order to go to the Port aux Mines where I had previously been, [254] and +whither I conducted Sieur de Poutrincourt, who collected some little pieces +of copper with great difficulty. All this bay has a circuit of perhaps +twenty leagues, with a little river at its head, which is very sluggish and +contains but little water. There are many other little brooks, and some +places where there are good harbors at high tide, which rises here five +fathoms. In one of these harbors three or four leagues north of Cap de +Poutrincourt, we found a very old cross all covered with moss and almost +all rotten, a plain indication that before this there had been Christians +there. All of this country is covered with dense forests, and with some +exceptions is not very attractive. [255] + +From the Port aux Mines [256] we returned to our settlement. In this bay +there are strong tidal currents running in a south-westerly direction. + +On the 12th of July, Ralleau, secretary of Sieur de Monts, arrived with +three others in a shallop from a place called Niganis, [257] distant from +Port Royal some hundred and sixty or hundred and seventy leagues, +confirming the report which Chevalier had brought to Sieur de Poutrincourt. + +On the 3d of July, [258] three barques were fitted out to send the men and +supplies, which were at our settlement, to Canseau, distant one hundred and +fifteen leagues from our settlement, and in latitude 45 deg. 20', where the +vessel [259] was engaged in fishing, which was to carry us back to France. + +Sieur de Poutrincourt sent back all his companions, but remained with eight +others at the settlement, so as to carry to France some grain not yet quite +ripe. [260] + +On the 10th of August, Mabretou arrived from the war, who told us that he +had been at Choueacoet, and had killed twenty savages and wounded ten or +twelve; also that Onemechin, chief of that place, Marchin, and one other, +had been killed by Sasinou, chief of the river of Quinibequy, who was +afterwards killed by the companions of Onemechin and Marchin. All this war +was simply on account of the savage Panounias, one of our friends who, as I +have said above, had been killed at Norumbegue by the followers of +Onemechin and Marchin. At present, the chiefs in place of Onemechin, +Marchin, and Sasinou are their sons: namely, for Sasinou, Pememen; Abriou +for his father, Marchin; and for Onemechin, Queconsicq. The two latter were +wounded by the followers of Mabretou, who seized them under pretence of +friendship, as is their fashion, something which both sides have to guard +against. [261] + +ENDNOTES: + +240. Lescarbot, the author of a History of New France often referred to in + our notes, published a volume entitled "LES MUSES DE LA NOUVELLE + FRANCE," in which may be found the play entitled LE THEATRE DE + NEPTUNE, which he composed to celebrate the return of this expedition. + +241. The mill is represented on Champlain's map of Port Royal as situated + on the stream which he calls _Riviere du Moulin_, the River of the + Mill. This is Allen River; and the site of the mill was a short + distance south-east of the "point where corn had been planted," which + was on the spot now occupied by the village of Annapolis. + +242. _Vide antea_, note 212. see also the map of Port Royal, where the road + is delineated, p. 24. + +243. This Indian Panounias and his wife had accompanied De Monts in 1605, + on his expedition to Cape Cod.--_Vide_ antea, p. 55. + +244. Now the Annapolis River. + +245. The conceit of this novel order was a happy one, as it served to + dispel the gloom of a long winter in the forests of La Cadie, as well + as to improve the quality and variety of their diet. The _noblesse_, + or gentlemen of the party, were fifteen, who served in turn and for a + single day as caterer or steward, the turn of each recurring once in + fifteen days. It was their duty to add to the ordinary fare such + delicate fish or game as could be captured or secured by each for his + particular day. They always had some delicacy at breakfast; but the + dinner was the great banquet, when the most imposing ceremony was + observed. + +246. Champlain does not inform us how many of Poutrincourt's party were + killed in the affray at Chatham. He mentions one as killed on the + spot. He speaks of carrying away the "dead bodies" for burial. He also + says they made a "deadly assault" upon "five or six of our company;" + and another appears to have died of his wounds after their return to + Port Royal, as stated in the text. + +247. _Une petite barque_. The French barque was a small vessel or large + boat, rigged with two masts; and those employed by De Monts along our + coast varied from six to eighteen tons burden, and must not be + confounded with our modern bark, which is generally much larger. + + The _vaisseau_, often mentioned by Champlain, included all large + vessels, those used for fishing, the fur-trade, and the transportation + of men and supplies for the colony. + + The _chaloupe_ was a row-boat of convenient size for penetrating + shallow places, was dragged behind the barque in the explorations of + our coast, and used for minor investigations of rivers and estuaries. + + The _patache_, an advice-boat, is rarely used by Champlain, and then + in the place of the shallop. + +248. It seems that young Chevalier had come out in the "Jonas," the same + ship that had brought out Poutrincourt, Lescarbot, and others, the + year before. It had stopped at Canseau to fish for cod. It brought the + unwelcome news that the company of De Monts had been broken up; that + the Hollanders, conducted by a "French traitor named La Jeunesse," had + destroyed the fur-trading establishments on the St. Lawrence, which + rendered it impracticable to sustain, as heretofore, the expenses of + the company. The monopoly of the fur-trade, granted to De Monts for + ten years, had been rescinded by the King's Council. "We were very + sad," says Lescarbot, "to see so fine and holy an undertaking broken + off, and that so many labors and perils endured had resulted in + nothing: and that the hope of establishing there the name of God and + the Catholic Faith had disappeared. Notwithstanding, after M. de + Poutrincourt had a long while mused hereupon, he said that, although + he should have none to come with him, except his family, he would not + forsake the enterprise."--_His. Nou. France_, par M. Lescarbot. + Paris, 1612. pp. 591-2. + +249. On the 16th of April, 1607, was born the second son of Henry IV. by + Marie de Medicis, who received the title, Le Duc d'Orleans. In France, + public rejoicings were universal. On the 22d of the month, he was + invested with the insignia of the Order of St. Michael and the Holy + Ghost with great pomp, on which occasion a banquet was given by the + King in the great hall at Fontainebleau, and in the evening the park + was illuminated by bonfires and a pyrotechnic display, which was + witnessed by a vast concourse of people. The young prince was baptized + privately by the Cardinal de Gondy, but the state ceremonies of his + christening were delayed, and appear never to have taken place: he + died in the fifth year of his age, never having received any Christian + name.--_Vide the Life of Marie de Medicis_, by Miss Pardoe, London, + 1852, Vol. I. p. 416; _Memoirs of the Duke of Sully_, Lennox, trans., + Phila., 1817, Vol. IV. p. 140. In New France, the little colony at + Port Royal attested their loyalty by suitable manifestations of + joy. "As the day declined," Says Lescarbot, "we made bonfires to + celebrate the birth of Monseigneur le Duc d'Orleans, and caused our + cannon and falconets to thunder forth again, accompanied with plenty + of musket-shots, having before for this purpose chanted a _Te Deum_." + --_Vide His. Nou. France_, Paris, 1612, p.594. + +250. Lescarbot says that about four hundred set out for the war against the + Almouchiquois, at Choueacoet, or Saco. The savages were nearly two + months in assembling themselves together. Mabretou had sent out his + two sons, Actaudin and Actaudinech, to summon them to come to Port + Royal as a rendezvous. They came from the river St. John, and from the + region of Gaspe. Their purpose was accomplished, as will appear in the + sequel. + +251. At St. John, they visited the cabin of Secondon, the Sagamore, with + whom they bartered for some furs. Lescarbot, who was in the + expedition, says, "The town of Ouigoudy was a great enclosure upon a + hill, compassed about with high and small trees, tied one against + another; and within it many cabins, great and small, one of which was + as large as a market-hall, wherein many households resided." In the + cabin of Secondon. they saw some eighty or a hundred savages, all + nearly naked. They were celebrating a feast which they call _Tabagie_. + Their chief made his warriors pass in review before his guests.--_Vide + His. Nou. France_, par M. Lescarbot. Paris, 1612. p. 598. + +252. They found sack at St. Croix that had been left there by De Monts's + colony three years before, of which they drank. Casks were still lying + in the deserted court-yard: and others had been used as fuel by + mariners, who had chanced to come there. + +253. De Laet's map has C. de Poutrincourt; the map of the English and + French Commissaries, C. Fendu or split Cape. Halliburton has Split + Cape, so likewise has the Admiralty map of 1860. + + It is situated at the entrance of the Basin of Mines, and about eight + miles southwest of Parrsborough. The point of this cape is in latitude + 45 deg. 20'. + +254. _Vide antea_, p. 26. + +255. The author is here speaking of the country about the Basin of Mines. + The river at the head of the bay is the Shubenacadie. It is not easy + to determine where the moss-covered cross was found. The distance from + Cap de Poutrincourt is indefinite, and the direction could not have + been exactly north. There is too much uncertainty to warrant even a + conjecture as to its locality. + +256. The port aux Mines is Advocate's Harbor.--_Vide antea_, p. 26, and + note 67. + +257. Niganis is a small Bay in the Island of Cape Breton, south of Cape + North: by De Laet called _Ninganis_; English, and French Commissaries, + _Niganishe_; modern maps, _Niganish_. + +258. The _3d of July_ was doubtless an error of the printer for the 30th, + as appears from the later date in the preceding paragraph, and the + statement of Lescarbot, that he left on the 30th of July. He says they + had one large barque, two small ones, and a shallop. One of the small + ones was sent before, while the other two followed on the 30th; and he + adds that Poutrincourt remained eleven days longer to await the + ripening of their grain, which agrees with Champlain's subsequent + statement, that he left with Poutrincourt on the 11th of + August.--_Vide His. Nou. France_, 1612, p. 603. + +259. The "Jonas."--_Vide antea_, p. 146. + +260. _Vide antea_, note 258. + +261. The implacable character of the American Indian is well illustrated in + this skirmish which took place at Saco. The old chief Mabretou, whose + life had been prolonged through several generations, had inspired his + allies to revenge, and had been present at the conflict. The Indian + Panounias had been killed in an affray, the particular cause of which + is not stated. To avenge his death, many lives were lost on both + sides. The two chiefs of Saco were slain, and in turn the author of + their death perished by the hand of their friends. Lescarbot informs + us that Champdore, under Poutrincourt, subsequently visited Saco, and + concluded a formal peace between the belligerent parties, emphasizing + its importance by impressive forms, and ceremonies. + + + + +CHAPTER XVII. + +THE SETTLEMENT ABANDONED.--RETURN TO FRANCE OF SIEUR DE POUTRINCOURT AND +ALL HIS COMPANY. + +On the 11th of August, we set out from our settlement in a shallop, and +coasted along as far as Cape Fourchu, where I had previously been. + +Continuing our course along the coast as far as Cap de la Heve, where we +first landed with Sieur de Monts, on the 8th of May, 1604, [262] we +examined the coast from this place as far as Canseau, a distance of nearly +sixty leagues. This I had not yet done, and I observed it very carefully, +making a map of it as of the other coasts. + +Departing from Cap de la Heve, we went as far as Sesambre, an island so +called by some people from St. Malo, [263] and distant fifteen leagues from +La Heve. Along the route are a large number of islands, which we named Les +Martyres, [264] since some Frenchmen were once killed there by the savages. +These islands lie in several inlets and bays. In one of them is a river +named St. Marguerite, [265] distant seven leagues from Sesambre, which is +in latitude 44 deg. 25'. The islands and coasts are thickly covered with pines, +firs, birches, and other trees of inferior quality. Fish and also fowl are +abundant. + +After leaving Sesambre, we passed a bay which is unobstructed, of seven or +eight leagues in extent, with no islands except at the extremity, where is +the mouth of a small river, containing but little water. [266] Then, +heading north-east a quarter east, we arrived at a harbor distant eight +leagues from Sesambre, which is very suitable for vessels of a hundred or a +hundred and twenty tons. At its entrance is an island from which one can +walk to the main land at low tide. We named this place Port Saincte +Helaine, [267] which is in latitude 44 deg. 40' more or less. + +From this place we proceeded to a bay called La Baye de Toutes Isles, [268] +of some fourteen or fifteen leagues in extent, a dangerous place on account +of the presence of banks, shoals, and reefs. The country presents a very +unfavorable appearance, being filled with the same kind of trees which I +have mentioned before. Here we encountered bad weather. + +Hence we passed on near a river, six leagues distant, called Riviere de +l'Isle Verte,[269] there being a green island at its entrance. This short +distance which we traversed is filled with numerous rocks extending nearly +a league out to sea, where the breakers are high, the latitude being 45 deg. +15'. + +Thence we went to a place where there is an inlet, with two or three +islands, and a very good harbor, [270] distant three leagues from l'Isle +Verte. We passed also by several islands near and in a line with each +other, which we named Isles Rangees, [271] and which are distant six or +seven leagues from l'Isle Verte. Afterwards we passed by another bay [272] +containing several islands, and proceeded to a place where we found a +vessel engaged in fishing between some islands, which are a short distance +from the main land, and distant four leagues from the Rangees. This place +we named Port de Savalette, [273] the name of the master of the vessel +engaged in fishing, a Basque, who entertained us bountifully; and was very +glad to see us, since there were savages there who purposed some harm to +him, which we prevented. [274] + +Leaving this place, we arrived on the 27th of the month at Canseau, distant +six leagues from Port de Savalette, having passed on our way a large number +of islands. At Canseau, we found that the three barques had arrived at port +in safety. Champdore and Lescarbot came out to receive us. We also found +the vessel ready to sail, having finished its fishing and awaiting only +fair weather to return. Meanwhile, we had much enjoyment among these +islands, where we found the greatest possible quantity of raspberries. + +All the coast which we passed along from Cape Sable to this place is +moderately high and rocky, in most places bordered by numerous islands and +breakers, which extend out to sea nearly two leagues in places, and are +very unfavorable for the approach of vessels. Yet there cannot but be good +harbors and roadsteads along the coasts and islands, if they were explored. +As to the country, it is worse and less promising than in other places +which we had seen, except on some rivers or brooks, where it is very +pleasant; but there is no doubt that the winter in these regions is cold, +lasting from six to seven months. + +The harbor of Canseau [275] is a place surrounded by islands, +to which the approach is very difficult, except in fair weather, on account +of the rocks and breakers about it. Fishing, both green and dry, is carried +on here. + +From this place to the Island of Cape Breton, which is in latitude 45 deg. 45' +and 14 deg. 50' of the deflection of the magnetic needle, [276] it is eight +leagues, and to Cape Breton twenty-five. Between the two there is a large +bay, [277] extending Some nine or ten leagues into the interior and making +a passage between the Island of Cape Breton and the main land through to +the great Bay of St. Lawrence, by which they go to Gaspe and Isle Percee, +where fishing is carried on. This passage along the Island of Cape Breton +is very narrow. Although there is water enough, large vessels do not pass +there at all on account of the strong currents and the impetuosity of the +tides which prevail. This we named Le Passage Courant, [278] and it is in +latitude 45 deg. 45'. + +The Island of Cape Breton is of a triangular shape, with a circuit of about +eighty leagues. Most of the country is mountainous, yet in some parts very +pleasant. In the centre of it there is a kind of lake, [279] where the sea +enters by the north a quarter north-west, and also by the south a quarter +Southeast. [280] Here are many islands filled with plenty of game, and +shell-fish of various kinds, including oysters, which, however, are not of +very good flavor. In this place there are two harbors, where fishing is +carried on; namely, Le Port aux Anglois, [281] distant from Cape Breton +some two or three leagues, and Niganis, eighteen or twenty leagues north a +quarter north-west. The Portuguese once made an attempt to settle this +island, and spent a winter here; but the inclemency of the season and the +cold caused them to abandon their settlement. + +On the 3rd of September, we set out from Canseau. On the 4th, we were off +Sable Island. On the 6th, we reached the Grand Bank, where the catching of +green fish is carried on, in latitude 45 deg. 30'. On the 26th, we entered the +sound near the shores of Brittany and England, in sixty-five fathoms of +water and in latitude 49 deg. 30'. On the 28th, we put in at Roscou, [282] in +lower Brittany, where we were detained by bad weather until the last day of +September, when, the wind coming round favorable, we put to sea in order to +pursue our route to St. Malo, [283] which formed the termination of these +voyages, in which God had guided us without shipwreck or danger. + + +END OF THE VOYAGES FROM THE YEAR 1604 TO 1608. + +ENDNOTES: + +262. _Vide antea_, p. 9 and note 22. + +263. Sesambre. This name was probably suggested by the little islet, + _Cezembre_, one of several on which are military works for the defence + of St. Malo. On De Laet's map of 1633, it is written _Sesembre_; on + that of Charlevoix. 1744, _Sincenibre_. It now appears on the + Admiralty maps corrupted into Sambro. There is a cape and a harbor + near this island which bear the same name. + +264. The islands stretching along from Cap de la Heve to Sambro Island are + called the _Martyres Iles_ on De Laet's map, 1633. + +265. The bay into which this river empties still retains the name of + St. Margaret. + +266. Halifax Harbor. Its Indian name was Chebucto, written on the map of + the English and French Commissaries _Shebuctu_. On Champlain's map, + 1612, as likewise on that of De Laet, 1633, it is called "_Baye + Senne_," perhaps from _saine_, signifying the unobstructed bay. + +267. Eight leagues from the Island Sesambre or Sambro Island would take + them to Perpisawick Inlet, which is doubtless _Le Port Saincte + Helaine_ of Champlain. The latitude of this harbor is 44 deg. 41', + differing but a single minute from that of the text, which is + extraordinary, the usual variation being from ten to thirty minutes. + +268. Nicomtau Bay is fifteen leagues from Perpisawick Inlet, but _La Baye + de Toutes Isles_ is, more strictly speaking, an archipelago, extending + along the coast, say from Clam Bay to Liscomb Point, as may be seen by + reference to Champlain's map, 1612, and that of De Laet, 1633, + Cruxius, 1660, and of Charlevoix, 1744. The north-eastern portion of + this archipelago is now called, according to Laverdiere, Island Bay. + +269. _Riviere de l'Isle Verte_, or Green Island River, is the River + St. Mary; and Green Island is Wedge Island near its mouth. The + latitude at the mouth of the river is 45 deg. 3'. This little island is + called _I. Verte_ on De Laet's map, and likewise on that of + Charlevoix; on the map of the English and French Commissaries, Liscomb + or Green Island. + +270. This inlet has now the incongruous name of Country Harbor: the three + islands at its mouth are Harbor, Goose, and Green Islands. The inlet + is called Mocodome on Charlevoix's map. + +271. There are several islets on the east of St. Catharine's River, near + the shore, which Laverdiere suggests are the _Isles Rangees_. They + are exceedingly small, and no name is given them on the Admiralty + charts. + +272. Tor Bay. + +273. _Le Port de Savalette_. Obviously White Haven, which is four leagues + from the Rangees and six from Canseau, as stated in the text. + Lescarbot gives a very interesting account of Captain Savalette, the + old Basque fisherman, who had made forty-two voyages into these + waters. He had been eminently successful in fishing, having taken + daily, according to his own account, fifty crowns' worth of codfish, + and expected his voyage would yield, ten thousand francs. His vessel + was of eighty tons burden, and could take in a hundred thousand dry + codfish. He was well known, and a great favorite with the voyagers to + this coast. He was from St. Jean de Luz, a small seaport town in the + department of the Lower Pyrenees in France, near the borders of Spain, + distinguished even at this day for its fishing interest. + +274. The Indians were in the habit of selecting from day to day the best of + Savalette's fish when they came in, and appropriating them to their + own use, _nolens volens_. + +275. _Canseau_. Currency has been given to an idle fancy that this name was + derived from that of a French navigator, but it has been abundantly + disproved by the Abbe Laverdiere. It is undoubtedly a word of Indian + origin. + +276. The variation of the magnetic needle in 1871, fifteen miles South of + the Harbor of Canseau, was, according to the Admiralty charts, 23 + degrees west. The magnetic needle was employed in navigation as early + as the year 1200, and its variation had been discovered before the + time of Columbus. But for a long period its variation was supposed to + be fixed; that is to say, was supposed to be always the same in the + same locality. A few years before Champlain made his voyages to + America, it was discovered that its variation in Paris was not fixed, + but that it changed from year to year. If Champlain was aware of this, + his design in noting its exact variation, as he did at numerous points + on our coast, may have been to furnish data for determining at some + future day whether the variation were changeable here as well as in + France. But, whether he was aware of the discovery then recently made + in Paris or not, he probably intended, by noting the declination of + the needle, to indicate his longitude, at least approximately. + +277. Chedabucto Bay. + +278. The Strait of Canseau. Champlain gives it on his map, 1612. _Pasage du + glas;_ De Laet, 1633, _Passage du glas;_ Creuxius, 1660, Fretum + Campseium; Charlevoix, 1744, _Passage de Canceau_. It appears from the + above that the early name was soon superseded by that which it now + bears. + +279. Now called _La Bras d'Or_, The Golden Arm. + +280. There is, in fact, no passage of La Bras d'Or on the south-west; and + Champlain corrects his error, as may be seen by reference to his map + of 1612. It may also be stated that the sea enters from the + north-east. _Nordouest_ in the original is here probably a + typographical error for _nordest_. There are, indeed, two passages, + both on the north-east, distinguished as the Great and the Little Bras + d'Or. + +281. _Le Port aux Anglois_, the Harbor of the English. On De Laet's map, + Port aux Angloix. This is the Harbor of Louisburgh, famous in the + history of the Island of Cape Breton. + +282. Roscofs, a small seaport town. On Mercator's Atlas of 1623, it is + written Roscou, as in the text. + +283. According to Lescarbot, they remained at St. Malo eight days, when + they went in a barque to Honfleur, narrowly escaping + shipwreck. Poutrincourt proceeded to Paris, where he exhibited to + Henry IV. corn, wheat, rye, barley, and oats, products of the colony + which he had so often promised to cherish, but whose means of + subsistence he had now nevertheless ungraciously taken away. + Poutrincourt also presented to him five _oustards_, or wild geese, + which he had bred from the shell. The king was greatly delighted with + them, and had them preserved at Fontainebleau. These exhibitions of + the products of New France had the desired effect upon the generous + heart of Henry IV.; and De Monts's monopoly of the fur-trade was + renewed for one year, to furnish some slight aid in establishing his + colonies in New France. + + + + +THE VOYAGES +TO THE +GREAT RIVER ST. LAWRENCE, +MADE BY +SIEUR DE CHAMPLAIN, +CAPTAIN IN ORDINARY TO THE KING IN THE MARINE, +FROM THE YEAR 1608 TO THAT OF 1612. + + + +CHAPTER I. + +DETERMINATION OF SIEUR DE MONTS TO MAKE EXPLORATIONS IN THE INTERIOR; HIS +COMMISSION, AND ITS INFRINGEMENT BY THE BASQUES, WHO DISARMED THE VESSEL OF +PONT GRAVE; AND THE AGREEMENT BETWEEN THEM WHICH THEY SUBSEQUENTLY MADE. + + +Having returned to France after a stay of three years in New France, [283] +I proceeded to Sieur de Monts, and related to him the principal events of +which I had been a witness since his departure, and gave him the map and +plan of the most remarkable coasts and harbors there. + +Some time afterward, Sieur de Monts determined to continue his undertaking, +and complete the exploration of the interior along the great river +St. Lawrence, where I had been by order of the late King Henry the Great +[284] in the year 1603, for a distance of some hundred and eighty leagues, +commencing in latitude 48 deg. 40', that is, at Gaspe, at the entrance of the +river, as far as the great fall, which is in latitude 45 deg. and some minutes, +where our exploration ended, and where boats could not pass as we then +thought, since we had not made a careful examination of it as we have since +done. [285] + +Now after Sieur de Monts had conferred with me several times in regard to +his purposes concerning the exploration, he resolved to continue so noble +and meritorious an undertaking, notwithstanding the hardships and labors of +the past. He honored me with his lieutenancy for the voyage; and, in order +to carry out his purpose, he had two vessels equipped, one commanded by +Pont Grave, who was commissioned to trade with the savages of the country +and bring back the vessels, while I was to winter in the country. + +Sieur de Monts, for the purpose of defraying the expenses of the +expedition, obtained letters from his Majesty for one year, by which all +persons were forbidden to traffic in peltry with the savages, on penalties +stated in the following commission:-- + + +HENRY BY THE GRACE OF GOD KING OF FRANCE AND NAVARRE, to our beloved and +faithful Councillors, the officers of our Admiralty in Normandy, Brittany, +and Guienne, bailiffs, marshals, prevosts, judges, or their lieutenants, +and to each one of them, according to his authority, throughout the extent +of their powers, jurisdictions, and precincts, greeting: + +Acting upon the information which has been given us by those who have +returned from New France, respecting the good quality and fertility of the +lands of that country, and the disposition of the people to accept the +knowledge of God, We have resolved to continue the settlement previously +undertaken there, in order that our subjects may go there to trade without +hinderance. And in view of the proposition to us of Sieur de Monts, +Gentleman in Ordinary of our chamber, and our Lieutenant-General in that +country, to make a settlement, on condition of our giving him means and +supplies for sustaining the expense of it, [286] it has pleased us to +promise and assure him that none of our subjects but himself shall be +permitted to trade in peltry and other merchandise, for the period of one +year only, in the lands, regions, harbors, rivers, and highways throughout +the extent of his jurisdiction: this We desire to have fulfilled. For these +causes and other considerations impelling us thereto, We command and decree +that each one of you, throughout the extent of your powers, jurisdictions, +and precincts, shall act in our stead and carry out our will in distinctly +prohibiting and forbidding all merchants, masters, and captains of vessels, +also sailors and others of our subjects, of whatever rank and profession, +to fit out any vessels, in which to go themselves or send others in order +to engage in trade or barter in peltry and other things with the savages of +New France, to visit, trade, or communicate with them during the space of +one year, within the jurisdiction of Sieur de Monts, on penalty of +disobedience, and the entire confiscation of their vessels, supplies, arms, +and merchandise for the benefit of Sieur de Monts; and, in order that the +punishment of their disobedience may be assured, you will allow, as We have +and do allow, the aforesaid Sieur de Monts or his lieutenants to seize, +apprehend, and arrest all violators of our present prohibition and order, +also their vessels, merchandise, arms, supplies, and victuals, in order to +take and deliver them up to the hands of justice, so that action may be +taken not only against the persons, but also the property of the offenders, +as the case shall require. This is our will, and We bid you to have it at +once read and published in all localities and public places within your +authority and jurisdiction, as you may deem necessary, by the first one of +our officers or sergeants in accordance with this requisition, by virtue of +these presents, or a copy of the same, properly attested once only by one +of our well-beloved and faithful councillors, notaries, and secretaries, to +which it is Our will that credence should be given as to the present +original, in order that none of our subjects may claim ground for +ignorance, but that all may obey and act in accordance with Our will in +this matter. We order, moreover, all captains of vessels, mates, and second +mates, and sailors of the same, and others on board of vessels or ships in +the ports and harbors of the aforesaid country, to permit, as We have done, +Sieur de Monts, and others possessing power and authority from him, to +search the aforesaid vessels which shall have engaged in the fur-trade +after the present prohibition shall have been made known to them. It is Our +will that, upon the requisition, of the aforesaid Sieur de Monts, his +lieutenants, and others having authority, you should proceed against the +disobedient and offenders, as the case may require: to this end. We give +you power, authority, commission, and special mandate, notwithstanding the +act of our Council of the 17th day of July last, [287] any hue and cry, +Norman charter, accusation, objection, or appeals of whatsoever kind; on +account of which, and for fear of disregarding which, it is Our will that +there should be no delay, and, if any of these occur, We have withheld and +reserved cognizance of the same to Ourselves and our Council, apart from +all other judges, and have forbidden and prohibited the same to all our +courts and judges: for this is Our pleasure. + +Given at Paris the seventh day of January, in the year of grace, sixteen +hundred and eight, and the nineteenth of Our reign. Signed, HENRY. + + +And lower down, By the King, Delomenie. And sealed with the single label of +the great seal of yellow wax. + +Collated with the original by me, Councillor, Notary, and secretary of the +King. + +I proceeded to Honfleur for embarkation, where I found the vessel of Pont +Grave in readiness. He left port on the 5th of April. I did so on the 13th, +arriving at the Grand Bank on the 15th of May, in latitude 45 deg. 15'. On the +26th, we sighted Cape St. Mary,[288] in latitude 46 deg. 45', on the Island of +Newfoundland. On the 27th of the month, we sighted Cape St. Lawrence, on +Cape Breton, and also the Island of St. Paul, distant eighty-three leagues +from Cape St. Mary.[289] On the 30th, we sighted Isle Percee and +Gaspe,[290] in latitude 48 deg. 40', distant from Cape St. Lawrence from +seventy to seventy-five leagues. + +On the 3d of June, we arrived before Tadoussac, distant from Gaspe from +eighty to ninety leagues; and we anchored in the roadstead of +Tadoussac,[291] a league distant from the harbor, which latter is a kind of +cove at the mouth of the river Saguenay, where the tide is very remarkable +on account of its rapidity, and where there are sometimes violent winds, +bringing severe cold. It is maintained that from the harbor of Tadoussac it +is some forty-five or fifty leagues to the first fall on this river, which +comes from the north-north-west. The harbor is small, and can accommodate +only about twenty vessels. It has water enough, and is under shelter of the +river Saguenay and a little rocky island; which is almost cut by the river; +elsewhere there are very high mountains with little soil and only rocks and +sand, thickly covered with such wood as fir and birch. There is a small +pond near the harbor, shut in by mountains covered with wood. There are two +points at the mouth: one on the south-west side, extending out nearly a +league into the sea, called Point St. Matthew, or otherwise Point aux +Allouettes; and another on the north-west side, extending out one-eighth of +a league, and called Point of all Devils.[292] from the dangerous nature of +the place. The winds from the south-south-east strike the harbor, which are +not to be feared; but those, however, from the Saguenay are. The two points +above mentioned are dry at low tide: our vessel was unable to enter the +harbor, as the wind and tide were unfavorable. I at once had the boat +lowered, in order to go to the port and ascertain whether Pont Grave had +arrived. While on the way, I met a shallop with the pilot of Pont Grave and +a Basque, who came to inform me of what had happened to them because they +attempted to hinder the Basque vessels from trading, according to the +commission obtained by Sieur de Monts from his Majesty, that no vessels +should trade without permission of Sieur de Monts, as was expressed in it; +and that, notwithstanding the notifications which Pont Grave made in behalf +of his Majesty, they did not desist from forcibly carrying on their +traffic; and that they had used their arms and maintained themselves so +well in their vessel that, discharging all their cannon upon that of Pont +Grave, and letting off many musket-shots, he was severely wounded, together +with three of his men, one of whom died, Pont Grave meanwhile making no +resistance; for at the first shower of musketry he was struck down. The +Basques came on board of the vessel and took away all the cannon and arms, +declaring that they would trade, notwithstanding the prohibition of the +King, and that when they were ready to set out for France they would +restore to him his cannon and ammunition, and that they were keeping them +in order to be in a state of security. Upon hearing all these particulars, +I was greatly annoyed at such a beginning, which we might have easily +avoided. + +Now, after hearing from the pilot all these things, I asked him why the +Basque had come on board of our vessel. He told me that he came in behalf +of their master, named Darache, and his companions, to obtain assurance +from me that I would do them no harm, when our vessel entered the harbor. + +I replied that I could not give any until I had seen Pont Grave. The Basque +said that, if I had need of any thing in their power, they would assist me +accordingly. What led them to use this language was simply their +recognition of having done wrong, as they confessed, and the fear that they +would not be permitted to engage in the whale-fishery. After talking at +length, I went ashore to see Pont Grave, in order to deliberate as to what +was to be done. I found him very ill. He related to me in detail all that +had happened. We concluded that we could only enter the harbor by force, +and that the settlement must not be given up for this year, so that we +considered it best, in order not to make a bad cause out of a just one, and +thus work our ruin, to give them assurances on my part so long as I should +remain there, and that Pont Grave should undertake nothing against them, +but that justice should be done in France, and their differences should be +settled there. + +Darache, master of the vessel, begged me to go on board, where he gave me a +cordial reception. After a long conference, I secured an agreement between +Pont Grave and him, and required him to promise that he would undertake +nothing against Pont Grave, or what would be prejudicial to the King and +Sieur de Monts; that, if he did the contrary, I should regard my promise as +null and void. This was agreed to, and signed by each. + +In this place were a number of savages who had come for traffic in furs, +several of whom came to our vessel with their canoes, which are from eight +to nine paces long, and about a pace or pace and a half broad in the +middle, growing narrower towards the two ends. They are very apt to turn +over, in case one does not understand managing them, and are made of birch +bark, strengthened on the inside by little ribs of white cedar, very neatly +arranged; they are so light that a man can easily carry one. Each can carry +a weight equal to that of a pipe. When they want to go overland to a river +where they have business, they carry them with them. From Choueacoet along +the coast as far as the harbor of Tadoussac, they are all alike. + + +ENDNOTES: + +283. Champlain arrived on the shores of America on the 8th of May, 1604, + and left on the 3rd of September, 1607. He had consequently been on + our coast three years, three months, and twenty-five days. + +284. _The late King Henry the Great_. Henry IV. died in 1610, and this + introductory passage was obviously written after that event, probably + near the time of the publication of his voyages in 1613. + +285. In the preliminary voyage of 1603, Champlain ascended the St. Lawrence + as far as the falls of St. Louis, above Montreal. + +286. The contribution by Henry IV. did not probably extend beyond the + monopoly of the fur-trade granted by him in this commission. + +287. This, we presume, was the act abrogating the charter of De Monts + granted in 1603. + +288. This cape still retains its ancient name, and is situated between + St. Mary's Bay and Placentia Bay. + +289. Cape St. Lawrence is the northernmost extremity of the Island of Cape + Breton, and the Island of St. Paul is twenty miles north-east of it. + +290. The Isle Percee, or pierced island, is a short distance north of the + Island of Bonaventure, at the entrance of Mal Bay, near the village of + Percee, where there is a government light. Gaspe Bay is some miles + farther north. "Below the bay," says Charlevoix, "we perceive a kind + of island, which is only a steep rock about thirty fathoms long, ten + high, and four in breadth: it looks like part of an old wall, and they + say it joined formerly to _Mount Ioli_, which is over against it on + the continent. This rock has in the midst of it an opening like an + arch, under which a boat of Biscay may pass with its sail up, and this + has given it the name of the _pierced island_."--_Letters to the + Duchess of Lesdiguieres_, by Francis Xavier de Charlevoix, London, + 1763, p. 12. + +291. The position in the roadstead was south-east of the harbor, so that + the harbor was seen on the north-west. Charlevoix calls it Moulin + Baude. The reader will find the position indicated by the letter M on + Champlain's map of the Port of Tadoussac. Baude Moulin (Baude Mill), + directly north of it, was probably a mill _privilege_. Charlevoix, in + 1720, anchored there, and asked them to show him the mill; and they + showed him some rocks, from which issued a stream of clear water. He + adds, they might build a water-mill here, but probably it will never + be done. + +292. _Pointe de tous les Diables_. Now known as Pointe aux Vaches, _cows_. + The point on the other side of the river is still called Pointe aux + Alouettes, or Lark Point. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +OF THE RIVER SAGUENAY, AND THE SAVAGES WHO VISITED US THERE.--OF THE ISLAND +OF ORLEANS, AND ALL THAT WE OBSERVED THERE WORTHY OF NOTE. + +After this agreement, I had some carpenters set to work to fit up a little +barque of twelve or fourteen tons, for carrying all that was needed for our +settlement, which, however, could not be got ready before the last of June. + +Meanwhile, I managed to visit some parts of the river Saguenay, a fine +river, which has the incredible depth of some one hundred and fifty to two +hundred fathoms. [293] About fifty leagues from the mouth of the harbor, +there is, as is said, a great waterfall, descending from a very high +elevation with great impetuosity. There are some islands in this river, +very barren, being only rocks covered with small firs and heathers. It is +half a league broad in places, and a quarter of a league at its mouth, +where the current is so strong that at three-quarters flood-tide in the +river it is still running out. All the land that I have seen consists only +of mountains and rocky promontories, for the most part covered with fir and +birch, a very unattractive country on both sides of the river. In a word, +it is mere wastes, uninhabited by either animals or birds; for, going out +hunting in places which seemed to me the most pleasant, I found only some +very small birds, such as swallows and river birds, which go there in +summer. At other times, there are none whatever, in consequence of the +excessive cold. This river flows from the north-west. + +The savages told me that, after passing the first fall, they meet with +eight others, when they go a day's journey without finding any. Then they +pass ten others, and enter a lake, [294] which they are three days in +crossing, and they are easily able to make ten leagues a day up stream. At +the end of the lake there dwells a migratory people. Of the three rivers +which flow into this lake, one comes from the north, very near the sea, +where they consider it much colder than in their own country; and the other +two from other directions in the interior, [295] where are migratory +savages, living only from hunting, and where our savages carry the +merchandise we give them for their furs, such as beaver, marten, lynx, and +otter, which are found there in large numbers, and which they then carry to +our vessels. These people of the north report to our savages that they see +the salt sea; and, if that is true, as I think it certainly is, it can be +nothing but a gulf entering the interior on the north. [296] The savages +say that the distance from the north sea to the port of Tadoussac is +perhaps forty-five or fifty days' journey, in consequence of the +difficulties presented by the roads, rivers, and country, which is very +mountainous, and where there is snow for the most part of the year. This is +what I have definitely ascertained in regard to this river. I have often +wished to explore it, but could not do so without the savages, who were +unwilling that I or any of our party should accompany them. Nevertheless, +they have promised that I shall do so. This exploration would be desirable, +in order to remove the doubts of many persons in regard to the existence of +this sea on the north, where it is maintained that the English have gone in +these latter years to find a way to China. [297] + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +PORT DE TADOUCAC. + +_The figures indicate the fathoms of water_. + +_A_. A round mountain on the bank of the river Saguenay. +_B_. The harbor of Tadoussac. +_C_. A small fresh-water brook. +_D_. The encampment of the savages when they come to traffic. +_E_. A peninsula partly enclosing the port of the river Saguenay. +_F_. Point of All Devils. +_G_. The river Saguenay. +_H_. Point aux Alouettes. +_I_. Very rough mountains covered with firs and beeches. +_L_. The mill Bode. +_M_. The roadstead where vessels anchor while waiting for wind and tide. +_N_. A little pond near the harbor. +_O_. A small brook coming from the pond and flowing into the Saguenay. +_P_. Place without trees near the point where there is a quantity of grass. + + * * * * * + +I set out from Tadoussac the last day of the month to go to Quebec. [298] +We passed near an island called Hare Island, [299] distant six leagues from +the above-named port: it is two leagues from the northern, and nearly four +leagues from the southern shore. From Hare Island we proceeded to a little +river, dry at low tide, up which some seven hundred or eight hundred paces +there are two falls. We named it Salmon River, [300] since we caught some +of these fish in it. Coasting along the north shore, we came to a point +extending into the river, which we called Cap Dauphin, [301] distant three +leagues from Salmon River. Thence we proceeded to another, which we named +Eagle Cape, [302] distant eight leagues from Cap Dauphin. Between the two +there is a large bay, [303] at the extremity of which is a little river dry +at low tide. From Eagle Cape, we proceeded to Isle aux Coudres, [304] a +good league distant, which is about a league and a half long. It is nearly +level, and grows narrower towards the two ends. On the western end there +are meadows, and rocky points extending some distance out into the river. +On the south-west side it is very reefy, yet very pleasant in consequence +of the woods surrounding it. It is distant about half a league from the +northern shore, where is a little river extending some distance into the +interior. We named it Riviere du Gouffre, [305] since abreast of it the +tide runs with extraordinary rapidity; and, although it has a calm +appearance, it is always much agitated, the depth there being great: but +the river itself is shallow, and there are many rocks at and about its +mouth. Coasting along from Isle aux Coudres, we reached a cape which we +named Cap de Tourmente, [306] five leagues distant; and we gave it this +name because, however little wind there may be, the water rises there as if +it were full tide. At this point, the water begins to be fresh. Thence we +proceeded to the Island of Orleans, [307] a distance of two leagues, on the +south side of which are numerous islands, low, covered with trees and very +pleasant, with large meadows, having plenty of game, some being, so far as +I could judge, two leagues in length, others a trifle more or less. About +these islands are many rocks, also very dangerous shallows, some two +leagues distant from the main land on the South. All this shore, both north +and South, from Tadoussac to the Island of Orleans, is mountainous, and the +soil very poor. The wood is pine, fir, and birch only, with very ugly +rocks, so that in most places one could not make his way. + +Now we passed along south of the Island of Orleans, which is a league and a +half distant from the main land and half a league on the north side, being +six leagues in length, and one in breadth, or in some places a league and a +half. On the north side, it is very pleasant, on account of the great +extent of woods and meadows there; but it is very dangerous sailing, in +consequence of the numerous points and rocks between the main land and +island, on which are numerous fine oaks and in some places nut-trees, and +on the borders of the woods vines and other trees such as we have in +France. This place is the commencement of the fine and fertile country of +the great river, and is distant one hundred and twenty leagues from its +mouth. Off the end of the island is a torrent of water on the north shore, +proceeding from a lake ten leagues in the interior: [308] it comes down +from a height of nearly twenty-five fathoms, above which the land is level +and pleasant, although farther inland are seen high mountains appearing to +be from fifteen to twenty leagues distant. + + +ENDNOTES: + +293. The deepest sounding as laid down on Laurie's Chart is one hundred and + forty-six fathoms. The same authority says the banks of the river + throughout its course are very rocky, and vary in height from one + hundred and seventy to three hundred and forty yards above the stream. + Its current is broad, deep, and uncommonly vehement: in some places, + where precipices intervene, are falls from fifty to sixty feet in + height, down which the whole volume of water rushes with tremendous + fury and noise. The general breadth of the river is about two and a + half miles, but at its mouth its width is contracted to three-quarters + of a mile. The tide runs upward about sixty-five miles from its mouth. + +294. If the Indians were three days in crossing Lake St. John here referred + to, whose length is variously stated to be from twenty-five to forty + miles, it could hardly have been the shortest time in which it were + possible to pass it. It may have been the usual time, some of which + they gave to fishing or hunting. "In 1647, Father Jean Duquen, + missionary at Tadoussac, ascending the Saguenay, discovered the Lake + St. John, and noted its Indian name, Picouagami, or Flat Lake. He was + the first European who beheld that magnificent expanse of inland + water."--_Vide Transactions, Lit. and His. Soc. of Quebec_, 1867-68, + p. 5. + +295. The first of these three rivers, which the traveller will meet as he + passes up the northern shore of the lake, is the Peribonca flowing + from the north-east. The second is the Mistassina, represented by the + Indians as coming from the salt sea. The third is the Chomouchonan, + flowing from the north-west. + +296. There was doubtless an Indian trail from the head-waters of the + Mistassina to Mistassin Lake, and from thence to Rupert River, which + flows into the lower part of Hudson's Bay. + +297. The salt sea referred to by the Indians was undoubtedly Hudson's Bay. + The discoverer of this bay, Henry Hudson, in the years 1607, 1608, and + 1609, was in the northern ocean searching for a passage to Cathay. In + 1610, he discovered the strait and bay which now bear his name. He + passed the winter in the southern part of the bay; and the next year, + 1611, his sailors in a mutiny forced him and his officers into a + shallop and abandoned them to perish. Nothing was heard of them + afterward. The fame of Hudson's discovery had reached Champlain + before the publication of this volume in 1613. This will be apparent + by comparing Champlain's small map with the TABULA NAUTICA of Hudson, + published in 1612. It will be seen that the whole of the Carte + Geographique de la Nouvelle France of Champlain, on the west of + Lumley's Inlet, including Hudson's Strait and Bay, is a copy from the + Tabula Nautica. Even the names are in English, a few characteristic + ones being omitted, such as Prince Henry, the King's Forlant, and Cape + Charles.--_Vide Henry Hudson the Navigator_, by G. M. Asher, LL.D., + Hakluyt Society, 1860, p. xliv. + +298. This was June 30, 1608. + +299. _Isle aux Lievres_, or hares. This name was given by Jacques Cartier, + and it is still called Hare Island. It is about ten geographical miles + long, and generally about half or three-quarters of a mile wide. + +300. _Riviere aux Saulmons_. "From all appearances," says Laverdiere, "this + Salmon River is that which empties into the 'Port a l'Equilles,' eel + harbor, also called 'Port aux Quilles,' Skittles Port. Its mouth is + two leagues from Cape Salmon, with which it must not be confounded." + It is now known as Black River. + +301. _Cap Dauphin_, now called Cape Salmon, which is about three leagues + from Black River. + +302. _Cap a l'Aigle_, now known as Cap aux Oies, or Goose Cape. The Eagle + Cape of to-day is little more than two leagues from Cape Salmon, while + Goose Cape is about eight leagues, as stated in the text. + +303. The bay stretching between Cape Salmon and Goose Cape is called Mal + Bay, within which are Cape Eagle, Murray Bay, Point au Ries, White + Cape, Red Cape, Black Cape, Point Pere, Point Corneille, and Little + Mal Bay. In the rear of Goose Cape are Les Eboulemens Mountains, 2,547 + feet in height. On the opposite side of the river is Point Ouelle, and + the river of the same name. + +304. _Isle aux Coudres_, Hazel Island, so named by Jacques Cartier, still + retains its ancient appellation. Its distance from Goose Cape is about + two leagues. The description of it in the text is very accurate. + +305. _Riviere du Gouffre_. This river still retains this name, signifying + whirlpool, and is the same that empties into St. Paul's Bay, opposite + Isle-aux Coudres. + +306. _Cap de Tourmente_, cape of the tempest, is eight leagues from Isle + aux Coudres, but about two from the Isle of Orleans, as stated in the + text, which sufficiently identifies it. + +307. _Isle d'Orleans_. Cartier discovered this island in 1635, and named it + the Island of Bacchus, because he saw vines growing there, which he + had not before seen in that region. He says, "Et pareillement y + trouuasmes force vignes, ce que n'auyons veu par cy deuant a toute la + terre, & par ce la nommasmes l'ysle de Bacchus."--_Brief Recit de la + Navigation Faite en MDXXXV._, par Jacques Cartier, D'Avezac ed., + Paris, 1863, pp. 14, 15. The grape found here was probably the Frost + Grape, _Vitis cordifolia_. The "Island of Orleans" soon became the + fixed name of this island, which it still retains. Its Indian name is + said to have been _Minigo_.--_Vide_ Laverdiere's interesting note, + _Oeuvres de Champlain_, Tome II, p. 24. Champlain's estimate of the + size of the island is nearly accurate. It is, according to the + Admiralty charts, seventeen marine miles in length, and four in its + greatest width. + +308. This was the river Montmorency, which rises in Snow Lake, some fifty + miles in the interior.--_Vide_ Champlain's reference on his map of + Quebec and its environs. He gave this name to the river, which it + still retains, in honor of the Admiral Montmorency, to whom he + dedicated his notes on the voyage of 1603.--_Vide Laverdiere_, in + loco; also _Champlain_, ed. 1632; _Chiarlevoix's Letters_, London, + 1763, p. 19. The following is Jean Alfonse's description of the fall + of Montmorency: "When thou art come to the end of the Isle, thou shall + see a great River, which falleth fifteene or twenty fathoms downe from + a rocke, and maketh a terrible noyse."--_Hakluyt, Vol. III. p. 293. + The perpendicular descent of the Montmorency at the falls is 240 feet. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +ARRIVAL AT QUEBEC, WHERE WE CONSTRUCTED OUR PLACE OF ABODE; ITS SITUATION. +--CONSPIRACY AGAINST THE SERVICE OF THE KING AND MY LIFE. BY SOME OF OUR +MEN--PUNISHMENT OF THEM, AND ALL THAT TRANSPIRED OF THE AFFAIR. + + +From the Island of Orleans to Quebec the distance is a league. I arrived +there on the 3d of July, when I searched for a place suitable for our +settlement, but I could find none more convenient or better situated than +the point of Quebec, so called by the savages, [309] which was covered with +nut-trees. I at once employed a portion of our workmen in cutting them +down, that we might construct our habitation there: one I set to sawing +boards, another to making a cellar and digging ditches, another I sent to +Tadoussac with the barque to get supplies. The first thing we made was the +storehouse for keeping under cover our supplies, which was promptly +accomplished through the zeal of all, and my attention to the work. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +QUEBEC. + +_The figures indicate the fathoms of water_. + +_A_. The site where our habitation is built. [Note 1] +_B_. Cleared land where we sow wheat and other grain. [Note 2] +_C_. The gardens.[Note 3] +_D_. Small brook coming from marshes. [Note 4] +_E_. River where Jacques Cartier passed the winter, which in his time he + called St. Croix, and which name has been transferred to a place + fifteen leagues above Quebec. [Note 5] +_F_. River of the marshes. [Note 6] +_G_. Place where was collected the grass for the animals brought here. + [Note 7] +_H_. The grand fall of Montmorency, which descends from a height of more + than twenty-five fathoms into the river. [Note 8] +_I_. The end of the Island of Orleans. +_L_. A very narrow point on the shore east of Quebec. [Note 9] +_M_. Roaring river which extends to the Etechemins. +_N_. The great river of St. Lawrence. +_O_. Lake in the roaring river. +_P_. Mountains in the interior; bay which I named New Biscay, +_q_. Lake of the great fall of Montmorency. [Note 10] +_R_. Bear Brook. [Note 11] +_S_. Brook du Gendre. [Note 12] +_T_. Meadows overflowed at every tide. +_V_. Mont du Gas, very high, situated on the bank of the river. [Note 13] +_X_. Swift brook, adapted to all kinds of mills. +_Y_. Gravelly shore where a quantity of diamonds are found somewhat better + than those of Alanson. +_Z_. The Point of Diamonds. +_9_. Places where the savages often build their cabins. [Note 14] + +NOTES. The following notes on Champlain's explanation of his map of Quebec +are by the Abbe Laverdiere, whose accurate knowledge of that city and its +environs renders them especially valuable. They are given entire, with only +slight modifications. + +1. That is properly the point of Quebec, including what is at present + enclosed by La Place, the street Notre Dame, and the river. + +2. This first clearing must have been what was called later the Esplanade + du Fort, or Grande Place, or perhaps both. The Grande Place became, in + 1658, the fort of the Hurons: it was the space included between the Cote + of the lower town and the Rue du Fort. + +3. A little above the gardens, on the slope of the Cote du Saut au Matelot, + a cross is seen, which seems to indicate that at that time the cemetery + was where it is said to be when it is mentioned some years later for the + first time. + +4. According to the old plans of Quebec, these marshes were represented to + be west of Mont Carmel, and at the foot of the glacis of the Citadel. + The brook pulled eastward of the grounds of the Ursulines and Jesuites, + followed for some distance the Rue de la Fabrique as far as the + enclosure of the Hotel Dieu, to the east of which it ran down the hill + towards the foot of the Cote de la Canoterie. + +5. The river St. Charles. The letter E does not indicate precisely the + place where Jacques Cartier wintered, but only the mouth of the river. + +6. Judging from the outlines of the shore, this brook, which came from the + south-west, flowed into the harbor of the Palais, towards the western + extremity of the Parc. + +7. This is probably what was called later the barn of the Messieurs de la + Compagnie, or simply La Grange, and appears to have been somewhere on + the avenue of Mont Carmel. + +8. The fall of Montmorency is forty fathoms or two hundred and forty French + feet, or even more. + +9. Hence it is seen that in 1613 this point had as yet no name. In 1629, + Champlain calls it Cap de Levis: it can accordingly be concluded that + this point derives its name from that of the Duc de Ventadour, Henri de + Levis, and that it must have been so named between the years 1625 and + 1627, the time when he was regent. + +10. The Lake of the Snows is the source of the western branch of the + Riviere du Saut. + +11. La Riviere de Beauport, which is called likewise La Distillerie. + +12. Called later Ruisseau de la Cabaneaux Taupiers. Riviere Chalisour, and + finally Riviere des Fous, from the new insane asylum, by the site of + which it now passes. + +13. Height where is now situated the bastion of the Roi a la Citadelle. + This name was given it, doubtless, in memory of M. de Monts, Pierre du + Guast. + +14. This figure appears not only at the Point du Cap Diamant, but also + along the shore of Beauport, and at the end of the Island of Orleans. + + * * * * * + +Some days after my arrival at Quebec, a locksmith conspired against the +service of the king. His plan was to put me to death, and, getting +possession of our fort, to put it into the hands of the Basques or +Spaniards, then at Tadoussac, beyond which vessels cannot go, from not +having a knowledge of the route, nor of the banks and rocks on the way. + +In order to execute his wretched plan, by which he hoped to make his +fortune, he suborned four of the worst characters, as he supposed, telling +them a thousand falsehoods, and presenting to them prospects of acquiring +riches. + +These four men, having been won over, all promised to act in such a manner +as to gain the rest over to their side; so that, for the time being, I had +no one with me in whom I could put confidence, which gave them still more +hope of making their plan succeed: for four or five of my companions, in +whom they knew that I put confidence, were on board of the barques, for the +purpose of protecting the provisions and supplies necessary for our +settlement. + +In a word, they were so skilful in carrying out their intrigues with those +who remained, that they were on the point of gaining all over to their +cause, even my lackey, promising them many things which they could not have +fulfilled. + +Being now all agreed, they made daily different plans as to how they should +put me to death, so as not to be accused of it, which they found to be a +difficult thing. But the devil, blindfolding them all and taking away their +reason and every possible difficulty, they determined to take me while +unarmed, and strangle me; or to give a false alarm at night, and shoot me +as I went out, in which manner they judged that they would accomplish their +work sooner than otherwise. They made a mutual promise not to betray each +other, on penalty that the first one who opened his mouth should be +poniarded. They were to execute their plan in four days, before the +arrival of our barques, otherwise they would have been unable to carry out +their scheme. + +On this very day, one of our barques arrived, with our pilot, Captain +Testu, a very discreet man. After the barque was unloaded, and ready to +return to Tadoussac, there came to him a locksmith, named Natel, an +associate of Jean du Val, the head of the conspiracy, who told him that he +had promised the rest to do just as they did; but that he did not in fact +desire the execution of the plot, yet did not dare to make a disclosure in +regard to it, from fear of being poniarded. + +Antoine Natel made the pilot promise that he would make no disclosure in +regard to what he should say, since, if his companions should discover it, +they would put him to death. The pilot gave him his assurance in all +particulars, and asked him to state the character of the plot which they +wished to carry out. This Natel did at length, when the pilot said to him: +"My friend, you have done well to disclose such a malicious design, and you +show that you are an upright man, and under the guidance of the Holy +Spirit. But these things cannot be passed by without bringing them to the +knowledge of Sieur de Champlain, that he may make provision against them; +and I promise you that I will prevail upon him to pardon you and the rest. +And I will at once," said the pilot, "go to him without exciting any +suspicion; and do you go about your business, listening to all they may +say, and not troubling yourself about the rest." + +The pilot came at once to me, in a garden which I was having prepared, and +said that he wished to speak to me in a private place, where we could be +alone. I readily assented, and we went into the wood, where he related to +me the whole affair. I asked who had told it to him. He begged me to pardon +him who had made the disclosure, which I consented to do, although he ought +to have addressed himself to me. He was afraid, he replied, that you would +become angry, and harm him. I told him that I was able to govern myself +better than that, in such a matter; and desired him to have the man come to +me, that I might hear his statement. He went, and brought him all trembling +with fear lest I should do him some harm. I reassured him, telling him not +to be afraid; that he was in a place of safety, and that I should pardon +him for all that he had done, together with the others, provided he would +tell me in full the truth in regard to the whole matter, and the motive +which had impelled them to it. "Nothing," he said, "had impelled them, +except that they had imagined that, by giving up the place into the hands +of the Basques or Spaniards, they might all become rich, and that they did +not want to go back to France." He also related to me the remaining +particulars in regard to their conspiracy. + +After having heard and questioned him, I directed him to go about his +work. Meanwhile, I ordered the pilot to bring up his shallop, which he +did. Then I gave two bottles of wine to a young man, directing him to say +to these four worthies, the leaders of the conspiracy, that it was a +present of wine, which his friends at Tadoussac had given him, and that he +wished to share it with them. This they did not decline, and at evening +were on board the barque where he was to give them the entertainment. I +lost no time in going there shortly after; and caused them to be seized, +and held until the next day. + +Then were my worthies astonished indeed. I at once had all get up, for it +was about ten o'clock in the evening, and pardoned them all, on condition +that they would disclose to me the truth in regard to all that had +occurred; which they did, when I had them retire. + +The next day I took the depositions of all, one after the other, in the +presence of the pilot and sailors of the vessel, which I had put down in +writing; and they were well pleased, as they said, since they had lived +only in fear of each other, especially of the four knaves who had ensnared +them. But now they lived in peace, satisfied, as they declared, with the +treatment which they had received. + +The same day I had six pairs of handcuffs made for the authors of the +conspiracy: one for our surgeon, named Bonnerme, one for another, named La +Taille, whom the four conspirators had accused, which, however, proved +false, and consequently they were given their liberty. + +This being done, I took my worthies to Tadoussac, begging Pont Grave to do +me the favor of guarding them, since I had as yet no secure place for +keeping them, and as we were occupied in constructing our places of abode. +Another object was to consult with him, and others on the ship, as to what +should be done in the premises. We suggested that, after he had finished +his work at Tadoussac, he should come to Quebec with the prisoners, where +we should have them confronted with their witnesses, and, after giving them +a hearing, order justice to be done according to the offence which they had +committed. + +I went back the next day to Quebec, to hasten the completion of our +storehouse, so as to secure our provisions, which had been misused by all +those scoundrels, who spared nothing, without reflecting how they could +find more when these failed; for I could not obviate the difficulty until +the storehouse should be completed and shut up. + +Pont Grave arrived some time after me, with the prisoners, which caused +uneasiness to the workmen who remained, since they feared that I should +pardon them, and that they would avenge themselves upon them for revealing +their wicked design. + +We had them brought face to face, and they affirmed before them all which +they had stated in their depositions, the prisoners not denying it, but +admitting that they had acted in a wicked manner, and should be punished, +unless mercy might be exercised towards them; accursing, above all, Jean du +Val, who had been trying to lead them into such a conspiracy from the time +of their departure from France. Du Val knew not what to say, except that he +deserved death, that all stated in the depositions was true, and that he +begged for mercy upon himself and the others, who had given in their +adherence to his pernicious purposes. + +After Pont Grave and I, the captain of the vessel, surgeon, mate, second +mate, and other sailors, had heard their depositions and face to face +statements, we adjudged that it would be enough to put to death Du Val, as +the instigator of the conspiracy; and that he might serve as an example to +those who remained, leading them to deport themselves correctly in future, +in the discharge of their duty; and that the Spaniards and Basques, of whom +there were large numbers in the country, might not glory in the event. We +adjudged that the three others be condemned to be hung, but that they +should be taken to France and put into the hands of Sieur de Monts, that +such ample justice might be done them as he should recommend; that they +should be sent with all the evidence and their sentence, as well as that of +Jean du Val, who was strangled and hung at Quebec, and his head was put on +the end of a pike, to be set up in the most conspicuous place on our fort. + + +ENDNOTES: + +309. Champlain here plainly means to say that the Indians call the narrow + place in the river _Quebec_. For this meaning of the word, viz., + narrowing of waters, in the Algonquin language, the authority is + abundant. Laverdiere quotes, as agreeing with him in this view, + Bellenger, Ferland, and Lescarbot. "The narrowing of the river," says + Charlevoix, "gave it the name of _Quebeio_ or _Quebec_, which in the + _Algonquin_ language signifies _contraction_. The Abenaquis, whose + language is a dialect of the Algonquin, call it Quelibec, which + signifies something shut up."--_Charlevoix's Letters_, pp. 18, 19. + Alfred Hawkins, in his "Historical Recollections of Quebec," regards + the word of Norman origin, which he finds on a seal of the Duke of + Suffolk, as early as 1420. The theory is ingenious: but it requires + some other characteristic historical facts to challenge our belief. + When Cartier visited Quebec, it was called by the natives Stadacone. + --_Vide Cartier's Brief Recit_, 1545, D'Avezac ed., Paris, 1863, + p. 14. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +RETURN OF PONT GRAVE TO FRANCE.--DESCRIPTION OF OUR QUARTERS AND THE PLACE +WHERE JACQUES CARTIER STAYED IN 1535. + + +After all these occurrences, Pont Grave set out from Quebec, on the 18th of +September, to return to France with the three prisoners. After he had gone, +all who remained conducted themselves correctly in the discharge of their +duty. + +I had the work on our quarters continued, which was composed of three +buildings of two stories. Each one was three fathoms long, and two and a +half wide. The storehouse was six fathoms long and three wide, with a fine +cellar six feet deep. I had a gallery made all around our buildings, on the +outside, at the second story, which proved very convenient. There were +also ditches, fifteen feet wide and six deep. On the outer side of the +ditches, I constructed several spurs, which enclosed a part of the +dwelling, at the points where we placed our cannon. Before the habitation +there is a place four fathoms wide and six or seven long, looking out upon +the river-bank. Surrounding the habitation are very good gardens, and a +place on the north side some hundred or hundred and twenty paces long and +fifty or sixty wide. Moreover, near Quebec, there is a little river, coming +from a lake in the interior, [310] distant six or seven leagues from our +settlement. I am of opinion that this river, which is north a quarter +north-west from our settlement, is the place where Jacques Cartier +wintered, [311] since there are still, a league up the river, remains of +what seems to have been a chimney, the foundation of which has been found, +and indications of there having been ditches surrounding their dwelling, +which was small. We found, also, large pieces of hewn, worm-eaten timber, +and some three or four cannon-balls. All these things show clearly that +there was a settlement there founded by Christians; and what leads me to +say and believe that it was that of Jacques Cartier is the fact that there +is no evidence whatever that any one wintered and built a house in these +places except Jacques Cartier, at the time of his discoveries. This place, +as I think, must have been called St. Croix, as he named it; which name +has since been transferred to another place fifteen leagues west of our +settlement. But there is no evidence of his having wintered in the place +now called St. Croix, nor in any other there, since in this direction there +is no river or other place large enough for vessels except the main river +or that of which I spoke above; here there is half a fathom of water at low +tide, many rocks, and a bank at the mouth; for vessels, if kept in the main +river, where there are strong currents and tides, and ice in the winter, +drifting along, would run the risk of being lost; especially as there is a +sandy point extending out into the river, and filled with rocks, between +which we have found, within the last three years, a passage not before +discovered; but one must go through cautiously, in consequence of the +dangerous points there. This place is exposed to the north-west winds; a +half fathoms. There are no signs of buildings here, nor any indications +that a man of judgment would settle in this place, there being many other +better ones, in case one were obliged to make a permanent stay. I have been +desirous of speaking at length on this point, since many believe that the +abode of Jacques Cartier was here, which I do not believe, for the reasons +here given; for Cartier would have left to posterity a narrative of the +matter, as he did in the case of all he saw and discovered; and I maintain +that my opinion is the true one, as can be shown by the history which he +has left, in writing. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +ABITATION DE QUEBECQ. + +_A_. The storehouse. +_B_. Dove-cote. +_C_. A building where our arms are kept, and for lodging our workmen. +_D_. Another building for our workmen. +_E_. Dial. +_F_. Another building, comprising the blacksmith's shop and the lodgings of + the mechanics. +_G_. Galleries extending entirely round the dwellings. +_H_. The dwelling of Sieur de Champlain. +_I_. Gate to the habitation where there is a drawbridge. +_L_. Promenade about the habitation ten feet wide, extending to the border + of the moat. +_M_. Moat extending all round our habitation. +_N_. Platforms, of a tenaille form, for our cannon. +_O_. Garden of Sieur de Champlain. +_P_. The kitchen. +_Q_. Open space before the habitation on the bank of the river. +_R_. The great river St. Lawrence. + + * * * * * + +As still farther proof that this place now called St. Croix is not the +place where Jacques Cartier wintered, as most persons think, this is what +he says about it in his discoveries, taken from his history; namely, that +he arrived at the Isle aux Coudres on the 5th of December, [312] 1535, +which he called by this name, as hazel-nuts were found there. There is a +strong tidal current in this place; and he says that it is three leagues +long, but it is quite enough to reckon a league and a half. On the 7th of +the month, Notre Dame Day, [313] he set out from this island to go up the +river, in which he saw fourteen islands, distant seven or eight leagues +from Isle aux Coudres on the south. He errs somewhat in this estimation, +for it is not more than three leagues. [314] He also says that the place +where the islands are is the commencement of the land or province of +Canada, and that he reached an island ten leagues long and five wide, where +extensive fisheries are carried on, fish being here, in fact, very +abundant, especially the sturgeon. But its length is not more than six +leagues, and its breadth two; a fact well recognized now. He says also that +he anchored between this island and the main land on the north, the +smallest passage, and a dangerous one, where he landed two savages whom he +had taken to France, and that, after stopping in this place some time with +the people of the country, he sent for his barques and went farther up the +river, with the tide, seeking a harbor and place of security for his ships. +He says, farther, that they went on up the river, coasting along this +island, the length of which he estimates at ten leagues; and after it was +passed they found a very fine and pleasant bay, containing a little river +and bar harbor, which they found very favorable for sheltering their +vessels. This they named St. Croix, since he arrived there on this day; and +at the time of the voyage of Cartier the place was called Stadaca, [315] +but we now call it Quebec. He says, also, that after he had examined this +place he returned to get his vessels for passing the winter there. + +Now we may conclude, accordingly, that the distance is only five leagues +from the Isle aux Coudres to the Isle of Orleans, [316] at the western +extremity of which the river is very broad; and at which bay, as Cartier +calls it, there is no other river than that which he called St. Croix, a +good league distant from the Isle of Orleans, in which, at low tide, there +is only half a fathom of water. It is very dangerous for vessels at its +mouth, there being a large number of spurs; that is, rocks scattered here +and there. It is accordingly necessary to place buoys in order to enter, +there being, as I have stated, three fathoms of water at ordinary tides, +and four fathoms, or four and a half generally, at the great tides at full +flood. It is only fifteen hundred paces from our habitation, which is +higher up the river; and, as I have stated, there is no other river up to +the place now called St. Croix, where vessels can lie, there being only +little brooks. The shores are flat and dangerous, which Cartier does not +mention until the time that he sets out from St. Croix, now called Quebec, +where he left his vessels, and built his place of abode, as is seen from +what follows. + +On the 19th of September, he set out from St. Croix, where his vessels +were, setting sail with the tide up the river, which they found very +pleasant, as well on account of the woods, vines, and dwellings, which were +there in his time, as for other reasons. They cast anchor twenty-five +leagues from the entrance to the land of Canada; [317] that is, at the +western extremity of the Isle of Orleans, so called by Cartier. What is +now called St Croix was then called Achelacy, at a narrow pass where the +river is very swift and dangerous on account of the rocks and other things, +and which can only be passed at flood-tide. Its distance from Quebec and +the river where Cartier wintered is fifteen leagues. + +Now, throughout the entire extent of this river, from Quebec to the great +fall, there are no narrows except at the place now called St. Croix; the +name of which has been transferred from one place to another one, which is +very dangerous, as my description shows. And it is very apparent, from his +narrative, that this was not the site of his habitation, as is claimed; but +that the latter was near Quebec, and that no one had entered into a special +investigation of this matter before my doing so in my voyages. For the +first time I was told that he dwelt in this place, I was greatly +astonished, finding no trace of a river for vessels, as he states there +was. This led me to make a careful examination, in order to remove the +suspicion and doubt of many persons in regard to the matter. [318] + +While the carpenters, sawers of boards, and other workmen, were employed on +our quarters, I set all the others to work clearing up around our place of +abode, in preparation for gardens in which to plant grain and seeds, that +we might see how they would flourish, as the soil seemed to be very good. + +Meanwhile, a large number of savages were encamped in cabins near us, +engaged in fishing for eels, which begin to come about the 15th of +September, and go away on the 15th of October. During this time, all the +savages subsist on this food, and dry enough of it for the winter to last +until the month of February, when there are about two and a half, or at +most three, feet of snow; and, when their eels and other things which they +dry have been prepared, they go to hunt the beaver until the beginning of +January. At their departure for this purpose, they intrusted to us all +their eels and other things, until their return, which was on the 15th of +December. But they did not have great success in the beaver-hunt, as the +amount of water was too great, the rivers having overrun their banks, as +they told us. I returned to them all their supplies, which lasted them only +until the 20th of January. When their supply of eels gave out, they hunted +the elk and such other wild beasts as they could find until spring, when I +was able to supply them with various things. I paid especial attention to +their customs. + +These people suffer so much from lack of food that they are sometimes +obliged to live on certain shell-fish, and eat their dogs and the skins +with which they clothe themselves against the cold. I am of opinion that, +if one were to show them how to live, and teach them the cultivation of the +soil and other things, they would learn very aptly. For many of them +possess good sense, and answer properly questions put to them. They have a +bad habit of taking vengeance, and are great liars, and you must not put +much reliance on them, except judiciously, and with force at hand. They +make promises readily, but keep their word poorly. The most of them observe +no law at all, so far as I have been able to see, and are, besides, full of +superstitions. I asked them with what ceremonies they were accustomed to +pray to their God, when they replied that they had none, but that each +prayed to him in his heart, as he wished. That is why there is no law among +them, and they do not know what it is to worship and pray to God, living as +they do like brute beasts. But I think that they would soon become good +Christians, if people would come and inhabit their country, which they are +for the most part desirous of. There are some savages among them, called by +them Pilotais, whom they believe have intercourse with the devil face to +face, who tells them what they must do in regard to war and other things; +and, if he should order them to execute any undertaking, they would obey at +once. So, also, they believe that all their dreams are true; and, in fact, +there are many who say that they have had visions and dreams about matters +which actually come to pass or will do so. But, to tell the truth, these +are diabolical visions, through which they are deceived and misled. This is +all I have been able to learn about their brutish faith. All these people +are well proportioned in body, without deformity, and are agile. The women, +also, are well-formed, plump, and of a swarthy color, in consequence of +certain pigments with which they rub themselves, and which give them a +permanent olive color. They are dressed in skins: a part only of the body +is covered. But in winter they are covered throughout, in good furs of elk, +otter, beaver, bear, seals, deer, and roe, of which they have large +quantities. In winter, when the snow is deep, they make a sort of snow-shoe +of large size, two or three times as large as that used in France, which +they attach to their feet, thus going over the snow without sinking in; +otherwise, they could not hunt or walk in many places. They have a sort of +marriage, which is as follows: When a girl is fourteen or fifteen years +old, and has several suitors, she may keep company with all she likes. At +the end of five or six years, she takes the one that pleases her for her +husband, and they live together to the end of their lives. But if, after +living some time together, they have no children, the man can disunite +himself and take another woman, alleging that his own is good for nothing. +Hence, the girls have greater freedom than the married women. + +After marriage, the women are chaste, and their husbands generally +jealous. They give presents to the fathers or relatives of the girls they +have wedded. These are the ceremonies and forms observed in their +marriages. In regard to their burials: When a man or a woman dies, they dig +a pit, in which they put all their property, as kettles, furs, axes, bows, +arrows, robes, and other things. Then they place the body in the pit and +cover it with earth, putting, on top many large pieces of wood, and another +piece upright, painted red on the upper part. They believe in the +immortality of the soul, and say that they shall be happy in other lands +with their relatives and friends who are dead. In the case of captains or +others of some distinction, they celebrate a banquet three times a year +after their death, singing and dancing about the grave. + +All the time they were with us, which was the most secure place for them, +they did not cease to fear their enemies to such an extent that they often +at night became alarmed while dreaming, and sent their wives and children +to our fort, the gates of which I had opened to them, allowing the men to +remain about the fort, but not permitting them to enter, for their persons +were thus as much in security as if they had been inside. I also had five +or six of our men go out to reassure them, and to go and ascertain whether +they could see any thing in the woods, in order to quiet them. They are +very timid and in great dread of their enemies, scarcely ever sleeping in +repose in whatever place they may be, although I constantly reassured them, +so far as I could, urging them to do as we did; namely, that they should +have a portion watch while the others slept, that each one should have his +arms in readiness like him who was keeping watch, and that they should not +regard dreams as the actual truth to be relied upon, since they are mostly +only false, to which I also added other words on the same subject. But +these remonstrances were of little avail with them, and they said that we +knew better than they how to keep guard against all things; and that they, +in course of time, if we continued to stay with them, would be able to +learn it. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +SEEDS AND VINES PLANTED AT QUEBEC.--COMMENCEMENT OF THE WINTER AND ICE.-- +EXTREME DESTITUTION OF CERTAIN INDIANS. + + +On the 1st of October, I had some wheat sown, and on the 15th some rye. On +the 3d, there was a white frost in some places, and the leaves of the trees +began to fall on the 15th. On the 24th, I had some native vines set out, +which flourished very well. But, after leaving the settlement to go to +France, they were all spoiled from lack of attention, at which I was much +troubled on my return. On the 18th of November, there was a great fall of +snow, which remained only two days on the ground, during which time there +was a violent gale of wind. There died during this month a sailor and our +locksmith [319] of dysentery, so also many Indians from eating eels badly +cooked, as I think. On the 5th of February, it snowed violently, and the +wind was high for two days. On the 20th, some Indians appeared on the other +side of the river, calling to us to go to their assistance, which was +beyond our power, on account of the large amount of ice drifting in the +river. Hunger pressed upon these poor wretches so severely that, not +knowing what to do, they resolved, men, women, and children, to cross the +river or die, hoping that I should assist them in their extreme want. +Having accordingly made this resolve, the men and women took the children +and embarked in their canoes, thinking that they could reach our shore by +an opening in the ice made by the wind; but they were scarcely in the +middle of the stream when their canoes were caught by the ice and broken +into a thousand pieces. But they were skilful enough to throw themselves +with the children, which the women carried on their backs, on a large piece +of ice. As they were on it, we heard them crying out so that it excited +intense pity, as before them there seemed nothing but death. But fortune +was so favorable to these poor wretches that a large piece of ice struck +against the side of that on which they were, so violently as to drive them +ashore. On seeing this favorable turn, they reached the shore with as much +delight as they ever experienced, notwithstanding the great hunger from +which they were suffering. They proceeded to our abode, so thin and haggard +that they seemed like mere skeletons, most of them not being able to hold +themselves up. I was astonished to see them, and observe the manner in +which they had crossed, in view of their being so feeble and weak. I +ordered some bread and beans to be given them. So great was their +impatience to eat them, that they could not wait to have them cooked. I +lent them also some bark, which other savages had given me, to cover their +cabins. As they were making their cabin, they discovered a piece of +carrion, which I had had thrown out nearly two months before to attract the +foxes, of which we caught black and red ones, like those in France, but +with heavier fur. This carrion consisted of a sow and a dog, which had +sustained all the rigors of the weather, hot and cold. When the weather was +mild, it stank so badly that one could not go near it. Yet they seized it +and carried it off to their cabin, where they forthwith devoured it half +cooked. No meat ever seemed to them to taste better. I sent two or three +men to warn them not to eat it, unless they wanted to die: as they +approached their cabin, they smelt such a stench from this carrion half +warmed up, each one of the Indians holding a piece in his hand, that they +thought they should disgorge, and accordingly scarcely stopped at all. +These poor wretches finished their repast. I did not fail, however, to +supply them according to my resources; but this was little, in view of the +large number of them. In the space of a month, they would have eaten up all +our provisions, if they had had them in their power, they are so +gluttonous: for, when they have edibles, they lay nothing aside, but keep +consuming them day and night without respite, afterwards dying of hunger. +They did also another thing as disgusting as that just mentioned. I had +caused a bitch to be placed on the top of a tree, which allured the martens +[320] and birds of prey, from which I derived pleasure, since generally +this carrion was attacked by them. These savages went to the tree, and, +being too weak to climb it, cut it down and forthwith took away the dog, +which was only skin and bones, the tainted head emitting a stench, but +which was at once devoured. + +This is the kind of enjoyment they experience for the most part in winter; +for in summer they are able to support themselves, and to obtain provisions +so as not to be assailed by such extreme hunger, the rivers abounding in +fish, while birds and wild animals fill the country about. The soil is very +good and well adapted for tillage, if they would but take pains to plant +Indian corn, as all their neighbors do, the Algonquins, Ochastaiguins, +[321] and Iroquois, who are not attacked by such extremes of hunger, which +they provide against by their carefulness and foresight, so that they live +happily in comparison with the Montagnais, Canadians, and Souriquois along +the seacoast. This is in the main their wretched manner of life. The snow +and ice last three months there, from January to the 8th of April, when it +is nearly all melted: at the latest, it is only seldom that any is seen at +the end of the latter month at our settlement. It is remarkable that so +much snow and ice as there is on the river, and which is from two to three +fathoms thick, is all melted in less than twelve days. From Tadoussac to +Gaspe, Cape Breton, Newfoundland, and the Great Bay, the snow and ice +continue in most places until the end of May, at which time the entire +entrance of the great river is sealed with ice; although at Quebec there is +none at all, showing a strange difference for one hundred and twenty +leagues in longitude, for the entrance to the river is in latitude 49 deg. 50' +to 51 deg., and our settlement [322] in 46 deg. 40'. + + +ENDNOTES: + +310. The river St. Charles flows from a lake in the interior of the same + name. It was called by the Montagnais, according to Sagard as cited by + Laverdiere, _in loco_, "Cabirecoubat, because it turns and forms + several points." Cartier named it the Holy Cross, or St. Croix, + because he says he arrived there "that day;" that is, the day on which + the exaltation of the Cross is celebrated, the 14th of September, + 1535.--_Vide Cartier_, Hakluyt, Vol. III. p. 266. The Recollects gave + it the name of St. Charles, after the grand vicar of Pontoise, Charles + des Boues.--_Laverdiere, in loco_. Jacques Cartier wintered on the + north shore of the St. Charles, which he called the St. Croix, or the + Holy Cross, about a league from Quebec. "Hard by, there is, in that + river, one place very narrow, deep, and swift running, but it is not + passing the third part of a league, over against the which there is a + goodly high piece of land, with a towne therein: and the country about + it is very well tilled and wrought, and as good as possibly can be + seene. This is the place and abode of Donnacona, and of our two men we + took in our first voyage, it is called Stadacona ... under which towne + toward the North the river and port of the holy crosse is, where we + staied from the 15 of September until the 16 of May, 1536, and there + our ships remained dry as we said before."--_Vide Jacques Cartier, + Second Voyage_, Hakluyt, Vol. III. p. 277. + +311. The spot where Jacques Cartier wintered was at the junction of the + river Lairet and the St. Charles. + +312. Cartier discovered the Isle of Coudres, that is, the isle of filberts + or hazel-nuts, on the 6th of September, 1535.--_Vide Cartier_, 1545, + D'Avezac ed., Paris, 1863, p. 12. This island is five nautical miles + long, which agrees with the statement of Champlain, and its greatest + width, is two miles and a quarter. + +313. Notre Dame Day, _iour de nostre dame_, should read "Notre Dame Eve." + Cartier says, "_Le septiesme iour dudict moys iour nostre-dame_," + etc.--_Idem_, p. 12. Hakluyt renders it, "The seventh of the moneth + being our Ladees even."--Vol. III. p. 265. + +314. As Champlain suggests, these islands are only three leagues higher up + the river; but, as they are on the opposite side, they could not be + compassed in much less than seven or eight leagues, as Cartier + estimates. + +315. This was an error in transcribing. Cartier has Stadacone.--_Vide Brief + Recit_, 1545, D'Avezac ed., p. 14. + +316. The distance, according to Laurie's Chart, is at least twenty-six + nautical miles. + +317. Canada at this time was regarded by the Indians as a limited + territory, situated at or about Quebec. This statement is confirmed by + the testimony of Cartier: "Ledict Donnacona pria nostre cappitaine de + aller le lendemain veoir Canada, Ce que luy promist le dist + cappitaine. Et le lendemam, 13. iour du diet moys, ledict cappitaine + auecques ses gentilz homines accompaigne de cinquante compaignons bien + en ordre, alleret veoir ledict Donnacona & son peuple, qui est distat + dou estoient lesdictes nauires d'une lieue."--_Vide Brief Recit_, + 1545, D'Avezac ed., p. 29. Of the above the following is Hakluyt's + translation: "Donnacona their Lord desired our Captaine the next day + to come and see Canada, which he promised to doe: for the next day + being the 13 of the moneth, he with all his Gentlemen and fiftie + Mariners very well appointed, went to visite Donnacona and his people, + about a league from our ships." + + Their ships were at this time at St. Croix, a short distance up the + St. Charles, which flows into the St. Lawrence at Quebec; and the + little Indian village, or camp, which Donnacona called Canada, was at + Quebec. Other passages from Cartier, as well as from Jean Alfonse, + harmonize with this which we have cited. Canada was therefore in + Cartier's time only the name of a very small territory covered by an + Indian village. When it became the centre of French interests, it + assumed a wider meaning. The St. Lawrence was often called the River + of Canada, then the territory on its shores, and finally Canada has + come to comprehend the vast British possessions in America known as + the "Dominion of Canada." + +318. The locality of Cartier's winter-quarters is established by Champlain + with the certainty of an historical demonstration, and yet there are + to be found those whose judgment is so warped by preconceived opinion + that they resist the overwhelming testimony which he brings to bear + upon the subject. Charlevoix makes the St. Croix of Cartier the + Riviere de Jacques Cartier.--_Vide Shea's Charlevoix_, Vol. I. p. 116. + +319. Unless they had more than one locksmith, this must have been Antoine + Natel.--_Vide antea_, p. 178. + +320. _Martres_. The common weasel, _Mustela vulgaris_. + +321. _Ochastaiguins_. This, says Laverdiere, is what Champlain first called + the Hurons, from the name of Ochateguin, one of their chiefs. Huron + was a nickname: the proper name of this tribe was Wendot or + Wyandot. They occupied the eastern bank of Lake Huron and the southern + shores of the Georgian Bay. The knowledge of the several tribes here + referred to had been obtained by Champlain, partly from his own + observation and partly from the Indians. The Algommequins or + Algonquins, known at this time to Champlain, were from the region of + the Ottawa. The Yroquois or Iroquois dwelt south of the St. Lawrence + in the State of New York, and comprised what are generally known as + the Five Nations. The Montagnais or Montaignets had their great + trading-post at Tadoussac, and roamed over a vast territory north and + east of that point, and west of it as far as the mountains that + separate the waters of the Saguenay and those of the Ottawa. The name + was given to them by the French from this mountain range. The + Canadians were those about the neighborhood of Quebec. The Souriquois + were of Nova Scotia, and subsequently known as Micmacs. Of most of + these different tribes, Champlain could speak from personal knowledge. + +322. Laverdiere gives the exact latitude of Quebec at the Observatory, on + the authority of Captain Bayfield, as 46 deg. 49' 8". + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +THE SCURVY AT QUEBEC.--How THE WINTER PASSED.--DESCRIPTION OF THE PLACE.-- +ARRIVAL AT QUEBEC OF SIEUR DES MARAIS, SON-IN-LAW OF PONT GRAVE. + + +The scurvy began very late; namely, in February, and continued until the +middle of April. Eighteen were attacked, and ten died; five others dying of +the dysentery. I had some opened, to see whether they were tainted, like +those I had seen in our other settlements. They were found the same. Some +time after, our surgeon died. [323] All this troubled us very much, on +account of the difficulty we had in attending to the sick. The nature of +this disease I have described before. + +It is my opinion that this disease proceeds only from eating excessively of +salt food and vegetables, which heat the blood and corrupt the internal +parts. The winter is also, in part, its cause; since it checks the natural +warmth, causing a still greater corruption of the blood. There rise also +from the earth, when first cleared up, certain vapors which infect the air: +this has been observed in the case of those who have lived at other +settlements; after the first year when the sun had been let in upon what +was not before cleared up, as well in our abode as in other places, the air +was much better, and the diseases not so violent as before. But the country +is fine and pleasant, and brings to maturity all kinds of grains and feeds, +there being found all the various kinds of trees, which we have here in our +forests, and many fruits, although they are naturally wild; as, nut-trees, +cherry-trees, plum-trees, vines, raspberries, strawberries, currants, both +green and red, and several other small fruits, which are very good. There +are also several kinds of excellent plants and roots. Fishing is abundant +in the rivers; and game without limit on the numerous meadows bordering +them. From the month of April to the 15th of December, the air is so pure +and healthy that one does not experience the slightest indisposition. But +January, February, and March are dangerous, on account of the sicknesses +prevailing at this time, rather than in summer, for the reasons before +given; for, as to treatment, all of my company were well clothed, provided +with good beds, and well warmed and fed, that is, with the salt meats we +had, which, in my opinion, injured them greatly, as I have already stated. +As far as I have been able to see, the sickness attacks one who is delicate +in his living and takes particular care of himself as readily as one whose +condition is as wretched as possible. We supposed at first that the +workmen only would be attacked with this disease; but this we found was not +the case. Those sailing to the East Indies and various other regions, as +Germany and England, are attacked with it as well as in New France. Some +time ago, the Flemish, being attacked with this malady in their voyages to +the Indies, found a very strange remedy, which might be of service to us; +but we have never ascertained the character of it. Yet I am confident that, +with good bread and fresh meat, a person would not be liable to it. + +On the 8th of April, the snow had all melted; and yet the air was still +very cold until April, [324] when the trees begin to leaf out. + +Some of those sick with the scurvy were cured when Spring came, which is +the season for recovery. I had a savage of the country wintering with me, +who was attacked with this disease from having changed his diet to salt +meat; and he died from its effects, which clearly shows that salt food is +not nourishing, but quite the contrary in this disease. + +On the 5th of June, a shallop arrived at our settlement with Sieur des +Marais, a son-in-law of Pont Grave, bringing us the tidings that his +father-in-law had arrived at Tadoussac on the 28th of May. This +intelligence gave me much satisfaction, as we entertained hopes of +assistance from him. Only eight out of the twenty-eight at first forming +our company were remaining, and half of these were ailing. + +On the 7th of June, I set out from Quebec for Tadoussac on some matters of +business, and asked Sieur des Marais to stay in my place until my return, +which he did. + +Immediately upon my arrival, Pont Grave and I had a conference in regard to +some explorations which I was to make in the interior, where the savages +had promised to guide us. We determined that I should go in a shallop with +twenty men, and that Pont Grave should stay at Tadoussac to arrange the +affairs of our settlement; and this determination was carried out, he +spending the winter there. This arrangement was especially desirable, since +I was to return to France, according to the orders sent out by Sieur de +Monts, in order to inform him of what I had done and the explorations I had +made in the country. + +After this decision, I set out at once from Tadoussac, and returned to +Quebec, where I had a shallop fitted out with all that was necessary for +making explorations in the country of the Iroquois, where I was to go with +our allies, the Montagnais. + + +ENDNOTES: + +323. His name was Bonnerme.--_Vide antea_, p. 180. + +324. Read May instead of April. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +DEPARTURE FROM QUEBEC AND VOYAGE TO THE ILE ST. ELOI.--MEETING THERE WITH +THE ALGONQUINS AND OCHATAIGUINS. + + +With this purpose, I set out on the 18th of the month. Here the river +begins to widen, in some places to the breadth of a league or a league and +a half. The country becomes more and more beautiful. There are hills along +the river in part, and in part it is a level country, with but few rocks. +The river itself is dangerous in many places, in consequence of its banks +and rocks; and it is not safe sailing without keeping the lead in hand. The +river is very abundant in many kinds of fish, not only such as we have +here, but others which we have not. The country is thickly covered with +massive and lofty forests, of the same kind of trees as we have about our +habitation. There are also many vines and nut-trees on the bank of the +river, and many small brooks and streams which are only navigable with +canoes. We passed near Point St. Croix, which many maintain, as I have said +elsewhere, is the place where Jacques Cartier spent the winter. This point +is sandy, extending some distance out into the river, and exposed to the +north-west wind, which beats upon it. There are some meadows, covered +however every full tide, which falls nearly two fathoms and a half. This +passage is very dangerous on account of the large number of rocks +stretching across the river, although there is a good but very winding +channel, where the river runs like a race, rendering it necessary to take +the proper time for passing. This place has deceived many, who thought +they could only pass at high tide from there being no channel: but we have +now found the contrary to be true, for one can go down at low tide; but it +would be difficult to ascend, in consequence of the strong current, unless +there were a good wind. It is consequently necessary to wait until the tide +is a third flood, in order to pass, when the current in the channel is six, +eight, ten, twelve, and fifteen fathoms deep. + +Continuing our course, we reached a very pleasant river, nine leagues +distant from St. Croix and twenty-four from Quebec. This we named +St. Mary's River. [325] The river all the way from St. Croix is very +pleasant. + +Pursuing our route, I met some two or three hundred savages, who were +encamped in huts near a little island called St. Eloi, [326] a league and a +half distant from St. Mary. We made a reconnoissance, and found that they +were tribes of savages, called Ochateguins and Algonquins, [327] on their +way to Quebec, to assist us in exploring the territory of the Iroquois, +with whom they are in deadly hostility, sparing nothing belonging to their +enemies. + +After reconnoitring, I went on shore to see them, and inquired who their +chief was. They told me there were two, one named Yroquet, and the other +Ochasteguin, whom they pointed out to me. I went to their cabin, where they +gave me a cordial reception, as is their custom. + +I proceeded to inform them of the object of my voyage, with which they were +greatly pleased. After some talk, I withdrew. Some time after, they came to +my shallop, and presented me with some peltry, exhibiting many tokens of +pleasure. Then they returned to the shore. + +The next day, the two chiefs came to see me, when they remained some time +without saying a word, meditating and smoking all the while. After due +reflection, they began to harangue in a loud voice all their companions who +were on the bank of the river, with their arms in their hands, and +listening very attentively to what their chiefs said to them, which was as +follows: that nearly ten moons ago, according to their mode of reckoning, +the son of Yroquet had seen me, and that I had given him a good reception, +and declared that Pont Grave and I desired to assist them against their +enemies, with whom they had for a long time been at warfare, on account of +many cruel acts committed by them against their tribe, under color of +friendship; that, having ever since longed for vengeance, they had +solicited all the savages, whom I saw on the bank of the river, to come and +make an alliance with us, and that their never having seen Christians also +impelled them to come and visit us; that I should do with them and their +companions as I wished; that they had no children with them, but men versed +in war and full of courage, acquainted with the country and rivers in the +land of the Iroquois; that now they entreated me to return to our +settlement, that they might see our houses, and that, after three days, we +should all together come back to engage in the war; that, as a token of +firm friendship and joy, I should have muskets and arquebuses fired, at +which they would be greatly pleased. This I did, when they uttered great +cries of astonishment, especially those who had never heard nor seen the +like. + +After hearing them, I replied that, if they desired, I should be very glad +to return to our settlement, to gratify them still more; and that they +might conclude that I had no other purpose than to engage in the war, since +we carried with us nothing but arms, and not merchandise for barter, as +they had been given to understand; and that my only desire was to fulfill +what I had promised them; and that, if I had known of any who had made evil +reports to them, I should regard them as enemies more than they did +themselves. They told me that they believed nothing of them, and that they +never had heard any one speak thus. But the contrary was the case; for +there were some savages who told it to ours. I contented myself with +waiting for an opportunity to show them in fact something more than they +could have expected from me. + + +ENDNOTES: + +325. This river is now called the Sainte Anne. + +326. A small island near Batiscan, not on the charts. + +327. Hurons and Algonquins. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +RETURN TO QUEBEC.--CONTINUATION AFTERWARDS WITH THE SAVAGES TO THE FALL OF +THE RIVER OF THE IROQUOIS. + + +The next day, we set out all together for our settlement, where they +enjoyed themselves some five or six days, which were spent in dances and +festivities, on account of their eagerness for us to engage in the war. + +Pont Grave came forthwith from Tadoussac with two little barques full of +men, in compliance with a letter, in which I begged him to come as +speedily as possible. + +The savages seeing him arrive rejoiced more than ever, inasmuch as I told +them that he had given some of his men to assist them, and that perhaps we +should go together. + +On the 28th of the month, [328] we equipped some barques for assisting +these savages. Pont Grave embarked on one and I on the other, when we all +set out together. The first of June, [329] we arrived at St. Croix, distant +fifteen leagues from Quebec, where Pont Grave and I concluded that, for +certain reasons, I should go with the savages, and he to our settlement and +to Tadoussac. This resolution being taken, I embarked in my shallop all +that was necessary, together with Des Marais and La Routte, our pilot, and +nine men. + +I set out from St. Croix on the 3d of June [330] with all the savages. We +passed the Trois Rivieres, a very beautiful country, covered with a growth +of fine trees. From this place to St. Croix is a distance of fifteen +leagues. At the mouth of the above-named river [331] there are six islands, +three of which are very small, the others some fifteen to sixteen hundred +paces long, very pleasant in appearance. Near Lake St. Peter, [332] some +two leagues up the river, there is a little fall not very difficult to +pass. This place is in latitude 46 deg., lacking some minutes. The savages of +the country gave us to understand that some days' journey up this river +there is a lake, through which the river flows. The length of the lake is +ten days' journey, when some falls are passed, and afterwards three or four +other lakes of five or six days' journey in length. Having reached the end +of these, they go four or five leagues by land, and enter still another +lake, where the Sacque has its principal source. From this lake, the +savages go to Tadoussac. [333] The Trois Rivieres extends forty days' +journey of the savages. They say that at the end of this river there is a +people, who are great hunters, without a fixed abode, and who are less than +six days' journey from the North Sea. What little of the country I have +seen is sandy, very high, with hills, covered with large quantities of pine +and fir on the river border; but some quarter of a league inland the woods +are very fine and open, and the country level. Thence we continued our +course to the entrance of Lake St. Peter, where the country is exceedingly +pleasant and level, and crossed the lake, in two, three, and four fathoms +of water, which is some eight leagues long and four wide. On the north +side, we saw a very pleasant river, extending some twenty leagues into the +interior, which I named St. Suzanne; on the south side, there are two, one +called Riviere du Pont, the other, Riviere de Gennes, [334] which are very +pretty, and in a fine and fertile country. The water is almost still in the +lake, which is full of fish. On the north bank, there are seen some slight +elevations at a distance of some twelve or fifteen leagues from the lake. +After crossing the lake, we passed a large number of islands of various +sizes, containing many nut-trees and vines, and fine meadows, with +quantities of game and wild animals, which go over from the main land to +these islands. Fish are here more abundant than in any other part of the +river that we had seen. From these islands, we went to the mouth of the +River of the Iroquois, where we stayed two days, refreshing ourselves with +good venison, birds, and fish, which the savages gave us. Here there sprang +up among them some difference of opinion on the subject of the war, so that +a portion only determined to go with me, while the others returned to their +country with their wives and the merchandise which they had obtained by +barter. + +Setting out from the mouth of this river, which is some four hundred to +five hundred paces broad, and very beautiful, running southward, [335] we +arrived at a place in latitude 45 deg., and twenty-two or twenty-three leagues +from the Trois Rivieres. All this river from its mouth to the first fall, +a distance of fifteen leagues, is very smooth, and bordered with woods, +like all the other places before named, and of the same sorts. There are +nine or ten fine islands before reaching the fall of the Iroquois, which +are a league or a league and a half long, and covered with numerous oaks +and nut-trees. The river is nearly half a league wide in places, and very +abundant in fish. We found in no place less than four feet of water. The +approach to the fall is a kind of lake, [336] where the water descends, and +which is some three leagues in circuit. There are here some meadows, but +not inhabited by savages on account of the wars. There is very little water +at the fall, which runs with great rapidity. There are also many rocks and +stones, so that the savages cannot go up by water, although they go down +very easily. All this region is very level, covered with forests, vines, +and nut-trees. No Christians had been in this place before us; and we had +considerable difficulty in ascending the river with oars. + +As soon as we had reached the fall, Des Marais, La Routte, and I, with five +men, went on shore to see whether we could pass this place; but we went +some league and a half without seeing any prospect of being able to do so, +finding only water running with great swiftness, and in all directions many +stones, very dangerous, and with but little water about them. The fall is +perhaps six hundred paces broad. Finding that it was impossible to cut a +way through the woods with the small number of men that I had, I +determined, after consultation with the rest, to change my original +resolution, formed on the assurance of the savages that the roads were +easy, but which we did not find to be the case, as I have stated. We +accordingly returned to our shallop, where I had left some men as guards, +and to indicate to the savages upon their arrival that we had gone to make +explorations along the fall. + +After making what observations I wished in this place, we met, on +returning, some savages, who had come to reconnoitre, as we had done. They +told us that all their companions had arrived at our shallop, where we +found them greatly pleased, and delighted that we had gone in this manner +without a guide, aided only by the reports they had several times made to +us. + +Having returned, and seeing the slight prospect there was of passing the +fall with our shallop, I was much troubled. And it gave me especial +dissatisfaction to go back without seeing a very large lake, filled with +handsome islands, and with large tracts of fine land bordering on the lake, +where their enemies live according to their representations. After duly +thinking over the matter, I determined to go and fulfil my promise, and +carry out my desire. Accordingly, I embarked with the savages in their +canoes, taking with me two men, who went cheerfully. After making known my +plan to Des Marais and others in the shallop, I requested the former to +return to our settlement with the rest of our company, giving them the +assurance that, in a short time, by God's grace, I would return to them. + +I proceeded forthwith to have a conference with the captains of the +savages, and gave them to understand that they had told me the opposite of +what my observations found to be the case at the fall; namely, that it was +impossible to pass it with the shallop, but that this would not prevent me +from assisting them as I had promised. This communication troubled them +greatly; and they desired to change their determination, but I urged them +not to do so, telling them that they ought to carry out their first plan, +and that I, with two others, would go to the war with them in their canoes, +in order to show them that, as for me, I would not break my word given to +them, although alone; but that I was unwilling then to oblige any one of my +companions to embark, and would only take with me those who had the +inclination to go, of whom I had found two. + +They were greatly pleased at what I said to them, and at the determination +which I had taken, promising, as before, to show me fine things. + + +ENDNOTES: + +328. The reader will observe that this must have been the 28th of June, + 1609. + +329. Read 1st of July. + +330. Read 3d of July. + +331. The river is now called St. Maurice; and the town at its mouth, Three + Rivers. Two islands at the mouth of the river divide it into three; + hence, it was originally called Trois Rivieres, or Three Rivers. + +332. Laverdiere suggests that Champlain entered this lake, now for the + first time called St. Peter, in 1603, on St. Peter's day, the 29th + June, and probably so named it from that circumstance. + +333. From the carrying-place they enter the Lake St. John, and from it + descend by the Saguenay to Tadoussac. In the preceding passage, Sacque + was plainly intended for Saguenay. + +334. Of the three rivers flowing into Lake St. Peter, none retains the name + given to them by Champlain. His _St. Suzanne_ is the river du Loup; + his _Riviere du Pont_ is the river St. Francois; and his _De Gennes_ + is now represented by the Yamaska. Compare Champlain's map of 1612 + with Laurie's Chart of the river St. Lawrence. + +335. This is an error: the River of the Iroquois, now commonly known as the + Richelieu, runs towards the north. + +336. The Chambly Basin. On Charlevoix's Carte de la Riviere Richelieu, it + is called Bassin de St. Louis. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +DEPARTURE FROM THE FALL OF THE IROQUOIS RIVER.--DESCRIPTION OF A LARGE +LAKE.--ENCOUNTER WITH THE ENEMY AT THIS LAKE; THEIR MANNER OF ATTACKING THE +IROQUOIS, AND THEIR BEHAVIOR IN BATTLE. + + +I set out accordingly from the fall of the Iroquois River [337] on the 2d +of July. [338] All the savages set to carrying their canoes, arms, and +baggage overland, some half a league, in order to pass by the violence and +strength of the fall, which was speedily accomplished. Then they put them +all in the water again, two men in each with the baggage; and they caused +one of the men of each canoe to go by land some three leagues, [339] the +extent of the fall, which is not, however, so violent here as at the mouth, +except in some places, where rocks obstruct the river, which is not broader +than three hundred or four hundred paces. After we had passed the fall, +which was attended with difficulty, all the savages, who had gone by land +over a good path and level country, although there are a great many trees, +re-embarked in their canoes. My men went also by land; but I went in a +canoe. The savages made a review of all their followers, finding that there +were twenty-four canoes, with sixty men. After the review was completed, we +continued our course to an island, [340] three leagues long, filled with +the finest pines I had ever seen. Here they went hunting, and captured +some wild animals. Proceeding about three leagues farther on, we made a +halt, in order to rest the coming night. + +They all at once set to work, some to cut wood, and others to obtain the +bark of trees for covering their cabins, for the sake of sheltering +themselves, others to fell large trees for; constructing a barricade on the +river-bank around their cabins, which they do so quickly that in less than +two hours so much is accomplished that five hundred of their enemies would +find it very difficult to dislodge them without killing large numbers. They +make no barricade on the river-bank, where their canoes are drawn up, in +order that they may be able to embark, if occasion requires. After they +were established in their cabins, they despatched three canoes, with nine +good men, according to their custom in all their encampments, to +reconnoitre for a distance of two or three leagues, to see if they can +perceive any thing, after which they return. They rest the entire night, +depending upon the observation of these scouts, which is a very bad custom +among them; for they are sometimes while sleeping surprised by their +enemies, who slaughter them before they have time to get up and prepare for +defence. Noticing this, I remonstrated with them on the mistake they made, +and told them that they ought to keep watch, as they had seen us do every +night, and have men on the lookout, in order to listen and see whether they +perceived any thing, and that they should not live in such a manner like +beasts. They replied that they could not keep watch, and that they worked +enough in the day-time in the chase, since, when engaged in war, they +divide their troops into three parts: namely, a part for hunting scattered +in several places; another to constitute the main body of their army, which +is always under arms; and the third to act as _avant-coureurs_, to look out +along the rivers, and observe whether they can see any mark or signal +showing where their enemies or friends have passed. This they ascertain by +certain marks which the chiefs of different tribes make known to each +other; but, these not continuing always the same, they inform themselves +from time to time of changes, by which means they ascertain whether they +are enemies or friends who have passed. The hunters never hunt in advance +of the main body, or _avant-coureurs_, so as not to excite alarm or produce +disorder, but in the rear and in the direction from which they do not +anticipate their enemy. Thus they advance until they are within two or +three days' march of their enemies, when they proceed by night stealthily +and all in a body, except the _van-couriers_. By day, they withdraw into +the interior of the woods, where they rest, without straying off, neither +making any noise nor any fire, even for the sake of cooking, so as not to +be noticed in case their enemies should by accident pass by. They make no +fire, except in smoking, which amounts to almost nothing. They eat baked +Indian meal, which they soak in water, when it becomes a kind of porridge. +They provide themselves with such meal to meet their wants, when they are +near their enemies, or when retreating after a charge, in which case they +are not inclined to hunt, retreating immediately. + +In all their encampments, they have their Pilotois, or Ostemoy, [341] a +class of persons who play the part of soothsayers, in whom these people +have faith. One of these builds a cabin, surrounds it with small pieces of +wood, and covers it with his robe: after it is built, he places himself +inside, so as not to be seen at all, when he seizes and shakes one of the +posts of his cabin, muttering some words between his teeth, by which he +says he invokes the devil, who appears to him in the form of a stone, and +tells him whether they will meet their enemies and kill many of them. This +Pilotois lies prostrate on the ground, motionless, only speaking with the +devil: on a sudden, he rises to his feet, talking, and tormenting himself +in such a manner that, although naked, he is all of a perspiration. All the +people surround the cabin, seated on their buttocks, like apes. They +frequently told me that the shaking of the cabin, which I saw, proceeded +from the devil, who made it move, and not the man inside, although I could +see the contrary; for, as I have stated above, it was the Pilotois who took +one of the supports of the cabin, and made it move in this manner. They +told me also that I should see fire come out from the top, which I did not +see at all. These rogues counterfeit also their voice, so that it is heavy +and clear, and speak in a language unknown to the other savages. And, when +they represent it as broken, the savages think that the devil is speaking, +and telling them what is to happen in their war, and what they must do. + +But all these scapegraces, who play the soothsayer, out of a hundred words, +do not speak two that are true, and impose upon these poor people. There +are enough like them in the world, who take food from the mouths of the +people by their impostures, as these worthies do. I often remonstrated with +the people, telling them that all they did was sheer nonsense, and that +they ought not to put confidence in them. + +Now, after ascertaining from their soothsayers what is to be their fortune, +the chiefs take sticks a foot long, and as many as there are soldiers. They +take others, somewhat larger, to indicate the chiefs. Then they go into the +wood, and seek out a level place, five or fix feet square, where the chief, +as sergeant-major, puts all the sticks in such order as seems to him best. +Then he calls all his companions, who come all armed; and he indicates to +them the rank and order they are to observe in battle with their enemies. +All the savages watch carefully this proceeding, observing attentively the +outline which their chief has made with the sticks. Then they go away, and +set to placing themselves in such order as the sticks were in, when they +mingle with each other, and return again to their proper order, which +manoeuvre they repeat two or three times, and at all their encampments, +without needing a sergeant to keep them in the proper order, which they are +able to keep accurately without any confusion. This is their rule in war. + +We set out on the next day, continuing our course in the river as far as +the entrance of the lake. There are many pretty islands here, low, and +containing very fine woods and meadows, with abundance of fowl and such +animals of the chase as stags, fallow-deer, fawns, roe-bucks, bears, and +others, which go from the main land to these islands. We captured a large +number of these animals. There are also many beavers, not only in this +river, but also in numerous other little ones that flow into it. These +regions, although they are pleasant, are not inhabited by any savages, on +account of their wars; but they withdraw as far as possible from the rivers +into the interior, in order not to be suddenly surprised. + +The next day we entered the lake, [342] which is of great extent, say +eighty or a hundred leagues long, where I saw four fine islands, ten, +twelve, and fifteen leagues long, which were formerly inhabited by the +savages, like the River of the Iroquois; but they have been abandoned since +the wars of the savages with one another prevail. There are also many +rivers falling into the lake, bordered by many fine trees of the same kinds +as those we have in France, with many vines finer than any I have seen in +any other place; also many chestnut-trees on the border of this lake, which +I had not seen before. There is also a great abundance of fish, of many +varieties: among others, one called by the savages of the country +_Chaousarou_ [343] which varies in length, the largest being, as the people +told me, eight or ten feet long. I saw some five feet long, which were as +large as my thigh; the head being as big as my two fists, with a snout two +feet and a half long, and a double row of very sharp and dangerous teeth. +Its body is, in shape, much like that of a pike; but it is armed with +scales so strong that a poniard could not pierce them. Its color is +silver-gray. The extremity of its snout is like that of a swine. This fish +makes war upon all others in the lakes and rivers. It also possesses +remarkable dexterity, as these people informed me, which is exhibited in +the following manner. When it wants to capture birds, it swims in among the +rushes, or reeds, which are found on the banks of the lake in several +places, where it puts its snout out of water and keeps perfectly still: so +that, when the birds come and light on its snout, supposing it to be only +the stump of a tree, it adroitly closes it, which it had kept ajar, and +pulls the birds by the feet down under water. The savages gave me the head +of one of them, of which they make great account, saying that, when they +have the headache, they bleed themselves with the teeth of this fish on the +spot where they suffer pain, when it suddenly passes away. + +Continuing our course over this lake on the western side, I noticed, while +observing the country, some very high mountains on the eastern side, on the +top of which there was snow. [344] I made inquiry of the savages whether +these localities were inhabited, when they told me that the Iroquois dwelt +there, and that there were beautiful valleys in these places, with plains +productive in grain, such as I had eaten in this country, together with +many kinds of fruit without limit. [345] They said also that the lake +extended near mountains, some twenty-five leagues distant from us, as I +judge. I saw, on the south, other mountains, no less high than the first, +but without any snow. [346] The savages told me that these mountains were +thickly settled, and that it was there we were to find their enemies; but +that it was necessary to pass a fall in order to go there (which I +afterwards saw), when we should enter another lake, nine or ten leagues +long. After reaching the end of the lake, we should have to go, they said, +two leagues by land, and pass through a river flowing into the sea on the +Norumbegue coast, near that of Florida, [347] whither it took them only two +days to go by canoe, as I have since ascertained from some prisoners we +captured, who gave me minute information in regard to all they had personal +knowledge of, through some Algonquin interpreters, who understood the +Iroquois language. + +Now, as we began to approach within two or three days' journey of the abode +of their enemies, we advanced only at night, resting during the day. But +they did not fail to practise constantly their accustomed superstitions, in +order to ascertain what was to be the result of their undertaking; and they +often asked me if I had had a dream, and seen their enemies, to which I +replied in the negative. Yet I did not cease to encourage them, and inspire +in them hope. When night came, we set out on the journey until the next +day, when we withdrew into the interior of the forest, and spent the rest +of the day there. About ten or eleven o'clock, after taking a little walk +about our encampment, I retired. While sleeping, I dreamed that I saw our +enemies, the Iroquois, drowning in the lake near a mountain, within sight. +When I expressed a wish to help them, our allies, the savages, told me we +must let them all die, and that they were of no importance. When I awoke, +they did not fail to ask me, as usual, if I had had a dream. I told them +that I had, in fact, had a dream. This, upon being related, gave them so +much confidence that they did not doubt any longer that good was to happen +to them. + +When it was evening, we embarked in our canoes to continue our course; and, +as we advanced very quietly and without making any noise, we met on the +29th of the month the Iroquois, about ten o'clock at evening, at the +extremity of a cape which extends into the lake on the western bank. They +had come to fight. We both began to utter loud cries, all getting their +arms in readiness. We withdrew out on the water, and the Iroquois went on +shore, where they drew up all their canoes close to each other and began to +fell trees with poor axes, which they acquire in war sometimes, using also +others of stone. Thus they barricaded themselves very well. + +Our forces also passed the entire night, their canoes being drawn up close +to each other, and fastened to poles, so that they might not get separated, +and that they might be all in readiness to fight, if occasion required. We +were out upon the water, within arrow range of their barricades. When they +were armed and in array, they despatched two canoes by themselves to the +enemy to inquire if they wished to fight, to which the latter replied that +they wanted nothing else; but they said that, at present, there was not +much light, and that it would be necessary to wait for daylight, so as to +be able to recognize each other; and that, as soon as the sun rose, they +would offer us battle. This was agreed to by our side. Meanwhile, the +entire night was spent in dancing and singing, on both sides, with endless +insults and other talk; as, how little courage we had, how feeble a +resistance we would make against their arms, and that, when day came, we +should realize it to our ruin. Ours also were not slow in retorting, +telling them they would see such execution of arms as never before, +together with an abundance of such talk as is not unusual in the siege of a +town. After this singing, dancing, and bandying words on both sides to the +fill, when day came, my companions and myself continued under cover, for +fear that the enemy would see us. We arranged our arms in the best manner +possible, being, however, separated, each in one of the canoes of the +savage Montagnais. After arming ourselves with light armor, we each took an +arquebuse, and went on shore. I saw the enemy go out of their barricade, +nearly two hundred in number, stout and rugged in appearance. They came at +a slow pace towards us, with a dignity and assurance which greatly amused +me, having three chiefs at their head. Our men also advanced in the same +order, telling me that those who had three large plumes were the chiefs, +and that they had only these three, and that they could be distinguished by +these plumes, which were much larger than those of their companions, and +that I should do what I could to kill them. I promised to do all in my +power, and said that I was very sorry they could not understand me, so that +I might give order and shape to their mode of attacking their enemies, and +then we should, without doubt, defeat them all; but that this could not now +be obviated, and that I should be very glad to show them my courage and +good-will when we should engage in the fight. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OP THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +DEFEAT OF THE IROQUOIS AT LAKE CHAMPLAIN. + +_A_. The fort of the Iroquois. +_B_. The enemy. +_C_. Canoes of the enemy, made of oak bark, each holding ten, fifteen, or + eighteen men. +_D_. Two chiefs who were killed. +_E_. One of the enemy wounded by a musket-shot of Sieur de Champlain. +_F_. Sieur de Champlain. +_G_. Two musketeers of Sieur de Champlain. +_H_. Montagnais, Ochastaiguins, and Algonquins. +_I_. Canoes of our allied savages made of birch bark. +_K_. The woods. + +NOTES. The letters _A_, _F_, _G_, and _K_, are wanting but the objects to +which they point are easily recognized. The letter _H_ has been placed on +the canoes of the allies instead of the collected body of the allies +immediately above them. + + * * * * * + +As soon as we had landed, they began to run for some two hundred paces +towards their enemies, who stood firmly, not having as yet noticed my +companions, who went into the woods with some savages. Our men began to +call me with loud cries; and, in order to give me a passage-way, they +opened in two parts, and put me at their head, where I marched some twenty +paces in advance of the rest, until I was within about thirty paces of the +enemy, who at once noticed me, and, halting, gazed at me, as I did also at +them. When I saw them making a move to fire at us, I rested my musket +against my cheek, and aimed directly at one of the three chiefs. With the +same shot, two fell to the ground; and one of their men was so wounded that +he died some time after. I had loaded my musket with four balls. When our +side saw this shot so favorable for them, they began to raise such loud +cries that one could not have heard it thunder. Meanwhile, the arrows flew +on both sides. The Iroquois were greatly astonished that two men had been +so quickly killed, although they were equipped with armor woven from cotton +thread, and with wood which was proof against their arrows. This caused +great alarm among them. As I was loading again, one of my companions fired +a shot from the woods, which astonished them anew to such a degree that, +seeing their chiefs dead, they lost courage, and took to flight, abandoning +their camp and fort, and fleeing into the woods, whither I pursued them, +killing still more of them. Our savages also killed several of them, and +took ten or twelve prisoners. The remainder escaped with the wounded. +Fifteen or sixteen were wounded on our side with arrow-shots; but they were +soon healed. + +After gaining the victory, our men amused themselves by taking a great +quantity of Indian corn and some meal from their enemies, also their armor, +which they had left behind that they might run better. After feasting +sumptuously, dancing and singing, we returned three hours after, with the +prisoners. The spot where this attack took place is in latitude 43 deg. and +some minutes, [348] and the lake was called Lake Champlain. [349] + +ENDNOTES: + +337. The River of the Iroquois, so called by Champlain, was long known by + that name, says Charlevoix, because these Indians generally descended + it, in order to make their inroads into the colony. Fort Richelieu, at + the mouth of the river, erected in 1641, was named after the + celebrated Cardinal, the river having already taken his name. This + fort having been demolished, another was built by M. de Sorel, a + French officer in command, which took his name, as likewise did the + river. A fort was built on the same river at the present village of + Chambly in 1664, and called Fort St. Louis. This wooden structure was + replaced by another of stone, erected prior to 1721, to which the name + of Chambly was given, as likewise by some writers to the river. The + river has likewise sometimes been called the St. Johns, but the + prevailing name is the Richelieu. + +338. Read the 12th of July. + +339. This fall is now avoided, and the navigation of the Richelieu secured + by a canal connecting Chambly Basin and St. Johns, a distance of about + ten miles. + +340. It is not entirely certain what island is here referred to. It has + been supposed to be the Island of St. Therese. But, taking all of + Champlain's statements into consideration, the logical inference would + be that it is the Isle aux Noix. + +341. "These two words were used in Acadie to indicate the _jongleur_, or + sorcerer. The word _pilotois_, according to P. Biard, Rel. 1611, + p. 17, came from the Basques, the Souriquois using the word _autmoin_, + which Lescarbot writes _aoutmoin_, and Champlain _ostemoy_. + P. Lejeune, in the Relation of 1636, p. 13, informs us that the + Montagnais called their Sorcerers _manitousiouekbi_: and according to + P. Brebeuf. Rel. 1635. p.35. the Hurons designated theirs by the name + _arendiouane_."--_Laverdiere, in loco_. + +342. The distances are here overstated by more than threefold, both in + reference to the lake and the islands. This arose, perhaps, from the + slow progress made in the birch canoes with a party of sixty + undisciplined savages, a method of travelling to which Champlain was + unaccustomed; and he may likewise have been misled by the + exaggerations of the Indians, or he may have failed to comprehend + their representation of distances. + +343. Of the meaning of _chaousarou_, the name given by the Indians to this + fish, we have no knowledge. It is now known as the bony-scaled pike, + or gar pike, _Lepidosteus osseus_. It is referred to by several early + writers after Champlain. + + "I saw," says Sagard, "in the cabin of a Montagnais Indian a certain + fish, which some call Chaousarou, as big as a large pike. It was only + an ordinary sized one, for many larger ones are seen, eight, nine, and + ten feet long, as is said. It had a snout about a foot and a half + long, of about the same shape as that of the snipe, except that the + extremity is blunt and not so pointed, and of a large size in + proportion to the body. It has a double row of teeth, which are very + sharp and dangerous;... and the form of the body is like that of a + pike, but it is armed with very stout and hard scales, of silver gray + color, and difficult to be pierced."--_Sagard's History of Canada_, + Bk. _iii_. p. 765; _Laverdiere_. Sagard's work was published in 1636. + He had undoubtedly seen this singular fish; but his description is so + nearly in the words of Champlain as to suggest that he had taken it + from our author. + + Creuxius, in his History of Canada, published at Paris in 1664, + describes this fish nearly in the words of Champlain, with an + engraving sufficiently accurate for identification, but greatly + wanting in scientific exactness. He adds, "It is not described by + ancient authors, probably because it is only found in the Lake of the + Iroquois;" that is, in Lake Champlain. From which it may be inferred + that at that time it had not been discovered in other waters. By the + French, he says, it is called _piscis armatus_. This is in evident + allusion to its bony scales, in which it is protected as in a coat of + mail. + + It is described by Dr. Kay in the Natural History of New York, + Zoology, Part I. p 271. On Plate XLIII. Fig. 139, of the same work, + the reader will observe that the head of the fish there represented + strikingly resembles that of the chaousarou of Champlain as depicted + on his map of 1612. The drawing by Champlain is very accurate, and + clearly identifies the Gar Pike. This singular fish has been found in + Lake Champlain, the river St. Lawrence, and in the northern lakes, + likewise in the Mississippi River, where is to be found also a closely + related species commonly called the alligator gar. In the Museum of + the Boston Society of Natural History are several specimens, one of + them from St. John's River, Florida, four feet and nine inches in + length, of which the head is seventeen and a half inches. If the body + of those seen by Champlain was five feet, the head two and a half feet + would be in about the usual proportion. + +344. The Green Mountain range in Vermont, generally not more than twenty or + twenty-five miles distant. Champlain was probably deceived as to the + snow on their summits in July. What he saw was doubtless white + limestone, which might naturally enough be taken for snow in the + absence of any positive knowledge. The names of the summits visible + from the lake are the following, with their respective heights. The + Chin, 4,348 feet; The Nose, 4,044; Camel's Hump, 4,083; Jay's Peak, + 4,018; Killington Peak, 3,924. This region was at an early period + called _Irocosia_. + +345. This is not an inaccurate description of the beautiful as well as rich + and fertile valleys to be found among the hills of Vermont. + +346. On entering the lake, they saw the Adirondack Mountains, which would + appear very nearly in the south. The points visible from the lake were + Mt. Marcy, 5,467 feet high above tide-water; Dix's Peak, 5,200; Nipple + Top, 4,900; Whiteface, 4,900; Raven Hill, 2,100; Bald Peak, 2,065.-- + _Vide Palmer's Lake Champlain_, p. 12. + +347. The river here referred to is the Hudson. By passing from Lake + Champlain through the small stream that connects it with Lake George, + over this latter lake and a short carrying place, the upper waters of + the Hudson are reached. The coast of Norumbegue and that of Florida + were both indefinite regions, not well defined by geographers of that + day. These terms were supplied by Champlain, and not by his + informants. He could not of course tell precisely where this unknown + river reached the sea, but naturally inferred that it was on the + southern limit of Norumbegue, which extended from the Penobscot + towards Florida, which latter at that time was supposed to extend from + the Gulf of Mexico indefinitely to the north. + +348. This battle, or Skirmish, clearly took place at Ticonderoga, or + _Cheonderoga_, as the Indians called it, where a cape juts out into + the lake, as described by Champlain. This is the logical inference to + be drawn from the whole narrative. It is to be observed that the + purpose of the Indians, whom Champlain was accompanying, was to find + their enemies, the Iroquois, and give them battle. The journey, or + warpath, had been clearly marked out and described by the Indians to + Champlain, as may be seen in the text. It led them along the western + shore of the lake to the outlet of Lake George, over the fall in the + little stream connecting the two lakes, through Lake George, and + thence to the mountains beyond, where the Iroquois resided. They found + the Iroquois, however, on the lake; gave them battle on the little + cape alluded to; and after the victory and pursuit for some distance + into the forest, and the gathering up of the spoils, Champlain and his + allies commenced their journey homeward. But Champlain says he saw the + fall in the stream that connects the two lakes. Now this little stream + flows into Lake Champlain at Ticonderoga, and he would naturally have + seen the fall, if the battle took place there, while in pursuit of the + Iroquois into the forest, as described in the text. The fall was in + the line of the retreat of the Iroquois towards their home, and is + only a mile and three-quarters from the cape jutting out into the lake + at Ticonderoga. If the battle had occurred at any point north of + Ticonderoga, he could not have seen the fall, as they retreated + immediately after the battle: if it had taken place south of that + point, it would have been off the war-path which they had determined + to pursue. We must conclude, therefore, that the battle took place at + Ticonderoga, a little north of the ruins of the old Fort Carillon, + directly on the shore of the lake. If the reader will examine the plan + of the battle as given by Champlain's engraving, he will see that it + conforms with great exactness to the known topography of the place. + The Iroquois, who had their choice of positions are on the north, in + the direction of Willow Point, where they can most easily retreat, and + where Champlain and his allies can be more easily hemmed in near the + point of the cape. The Iroquois are on lower ground, and we know that + the surface there shelves to the north. The well-known sandy bottom of + the lake at this place would furnish the means of fastening the + canoes, by forcing poles into it, a little out from the shore during + the night, as they actually did. On Champlain's map of 1632, this + point is referred to as the location of the battle; and in his note on + the map, No. 65, he says this is the place where the Iroquois were + defeated by Champlain. All the facts of the narrative thus point to + Ticonderoga, and render it indisputable that this was the scene of the + first of the many recorded conflicts on this memorable lake. We should + not have entered into this discussion so fully, had not several + writers, not well informed, expressed views wholly inconsistent with + known facts. + +349. The Indian name of Lake Champlain is _Caniaderiguaronte_, the lake + that is the gate of the country.--_Vide Administration of the + Colonies_, by Thomas Pownall. 1768, p. 267. This name was very + significant, since the lake and valley of Champlain was the "gate," or + war-path, by which the hostile tribes of Iroquois approached their + enemies on the north of the St. Lawrence, and _vice-versa_. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +RETURN FROM THE BATTLE, AND WHAT TOOK PLACE ON THE WAY. + + +After going some eight leagues, towards evening they took one of the +prisoners, to whom they made a harangue, enumerating the cruelties which he +and his men had already practised towards them without any mercy, and that, +in like manner, he ought to make up his mind to receive as much. They +commanded him to sing, if he had courage, which he did; but it was a very +sad song. + +Meanwhile, our men kindled a fire; and, when it was well burning, they each +took a brand, and burned this poor creature gradually, so as to make him +suffer greater torment. Sometimes they stopped, and threw water on his +back. Then they tore out his nails, and applied fire to the extremities of +his fingers and private member. Afterwards, they flayed the top of his +head, and had a kind of gum poured all hot upon it; then they pierced his +arms near the wrists, and, drawing up the sinews with sticks, they tore +them out by force; but, seeing that they could not get them, they cut +them. This poor wretch uttered terrible cries, and it excited my pity to +see him treated in this manner, and yet showing such firmness that one +would have said, at times, that he suffered hardly any pain at all. They +urged me strongly to take some fire, and do as they did. I remonstrated +with them, saying that we practised no such cruelties, but killed them at +once; and that, if they wished me to fire a musket-shot at him, I should be +willing to do so. They refused, saying that he would not in that case +suffer any pain. I went away from them, pained to see such cruelties as +they practised upon his body. When they saw that I was displeased, they +called me, and told me to fire a musket-shot at him. This I did without his +feeling it, and thus put an end, by a single shot, to all the torments he +would have suffered, rather than see him tyrannized over. After his death, +they were not yet satisfied, but opened him, and threw his entrails into +the lake. Then they cut off his head, arms, and legs, which they scattered +in different directions; keeping the scalp which they had flayed off, as +they had done in the case of all the rest whom they had killed in the +contest. They were guilty also of another monstrosity in taking his heart, +cutting it into several pieces, and giving it to a brother of his to eat, +as also to others of his companions, who were prisoners: they took it into +their mouths, but would not swallow it. Some Algonquin savages, who were +guarding them, made some of them spit it out, when they threw it into the +water. This is the manner in which these people behave towards those whom +they capture in war, for whom it would be better to die fighting, or to +kill themselves on the spur of the moment, as many do, rather than fall +into the hands of their enemies. After this execution, we set out on our +return with the rest of the prisoners, who kept singing as they went along, +with no better hopes for the future than he had had who was so wretchedly +treated. + +Having arrived at the falls of the Iroquois, the Algonquins returned to +their own country; so also the Ochateguins, [350] with a part of the +prisoners: well satisfied with the results of the war, and that I had +accompanied them so readily. We separated accordingly with loud +protestations of mutual friendship; and they asked me whether I would not +like to go into their country, to assist them with continued fraternal +relations; and I promised that I would do so. + +I returned with the Montagnais. After informing myself from the prisoners +in regard to their country, and of its probable extent, we packed up the +baggage for the return, which was accomplished with such despatch that we +went every day in their canoes twenty-five or thirty leagues, which was +their usual rate of travelling. When we arrived at the mouth of the river +Iroquois, some of the savages dreamed that their enemies were pursuing +them. This dream led them to move their camp forthwith, although the night +was very inclement on account of the wind and rain; and they went and +passed the remainder of the night, from fear of their enemies, amid high +reeds on Lake St. Peter. Two days after, we arrived at our settlement, +where I gave them some bread and peas; also some beads, which they asked me +for, in order to ornament the heads of their enemies, for the purpose of +merry-making upon their return. The next day, I went with them in their +canoes as far as Tadoussac, in order to witness their ceremonies. On +approaching the shore, they each took a stick, to the end of which they +hung the heads of their enemies, who had been killed, together with some +beads, all of them singing. When they were through with this, the women +undressed themselves, so as to be in a state of entire nudity, when they +jumped into the water, and swam to the prows, of the canoes to take the +heads of their enemies, which were on the ends of long poles before their +boats: then they hung them about their necks, as if it had been some costly +chain, singing and dancing meanwhile. Some days after, they presented me +with one of these heads, as if it were something very precious; and also +with a pair of arms taken from their enemies, to keep and show to the +king. This, for the sake of gratifying them, I promised to do. + +After some days, I went to Quebec, whither some Algonquin savages came, +expressing their regret at not being present at the defeat of their +enemies, and presenting me with some furs, in consideration of my having +gone there and assisted their friends. + +Some days after they had set out for their country, distant about a hundred +and twenty leagues from our settlement, I went to Tadoussac to see whether +Pont Grave had returned from Gaspe, whither he had gone. He did not arrive +until the next day, when he told me that he had decided to return to +France. We concluded to leave an upright man, Captain Pierre Chavin of +Dieppe, to command at Quebec, until Sieur de Monts should arrange matters +there. + + +ENDNOTES: + +350. The Indian allies on this expedition were the Algonquins + (_Algoumequins_), the Hurons (_Ochatequins_), and the Montagnais + (_Montagnets_). The two former, on their way to Quebec, had met + Champlain near the river St. Anne, and joined him and the Montagnais, + who belonged in the neighborhood of Tadoussac, or farther east.--_Vide + antea_, p. 202. They now, at the falls near the Basin of Chambly, + departed to their homes, perhaps on the Ottawa River and the shores of + Lake Huron. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +RETURN TO FRANCE, AND WHAT OCCURRED UP TO THE TIME OP RE-EMBARKATION. + + +After forming this resolution, we went to Quebec to establish him in +authority, and leave him every thing requisite and necessary for the +settlement, together with fifteen men. Every thing being arranged, we set +out on the first day of September [351] for Tadoussac, in order to fit out +our vessel for returning to France. + +We set out accordingly from the latter place on the 5th of the month, and +on the 8th anchored at Isle Percee. On Thursday the 10th, we set out from +there, and on the 18th, the Tuesday following, we arrived at the Grand +Bank. On the 2d of October, we got soundings. On the 8th, we anchored at +Conquet [352] in Lower Brittany. On Saturday the 10th, we set out from +there, arriving at Honfleur on the 13th. + +After disembarking, I did not wait long before taking post to go to Sieur +de Monts, who was then at Fontainebleau, where His Majesty was. Here I +reported to him in detail all that had transpired in regard to the winter +quarters and our new explorations, and my hopes for the future in view of +the promises of the savages called Ochateguins, who are good Iroquois. +[353] The other Iroquois, their enemies, dwell more to the south. The +language of the former does not differ much from that of the people +recently discovered and hitherto unknown to us, which they understand when +spoken. + +I at once waited upon His Majesty, and gave him an account of my voyage, +which afforded him pleasure and satisfaction. I had a girdle made of +porcupine quills, very well worked, after the manner of the country where +it was made, and which His Majesty thought very pretty. I had also two +little birds, of the size of blackbirds and of a carnation color; [354] +also, the head of a fish caught in the great lake of the Iroquois, having a +very long snout and two or three rows of very sharp teeth. A representation +of this fish may be found on the great lake, on my geographical map. [355] + +After I had concluded my interview with His Majesty, Sieur de Monts +determined to go to Rouen to meet his associates, the Sieurs Collier and Le +Gendre, merchants of Rouen, to consider what should be done the coming +year. They resolved to continue the settlement, and finish the explorations +up the great river St. Lawrence, in accordance with the promises of the +Ochateguins, made on condition that we should assist them in their wars, as +I had given them to understand. + +Pont Grave was appointed to go to Tadoussac, not only for traffic, but to +engage in any thing else that might realize means for defraying the +expenses. + +Sieur Lucas Le Gendre, of Rouen, one of the partners, was ordered to see to +the purchase of merchandise and supplies, the repair of the vessels, +obtaining crews, and other things necessary for the voyage. + +After these matters were arranged, Sieur de Monts returned to Paris, I +accompanying him, where I stayed until the end of February. During this +time, Sieur de Monts endeavored to obtain a new commission for trading in +the newly discovered regions, and where no one had traded before. This he +was unable to accomplish, although his requests and proposals were just and +reasonable. + +But, finding that there was no hope of obtaining this commission, he did +not cease to prosecute his plan, from his desire that every thing might +turn out to the profit and honor of France. + +During this time, Sieur de Monts did not express to me his pleasure in +regard to me personally, until I told him it had been reported to me that +he did not wish to have me winter in Canada, which, however, was not true, +for he referred the whole matter to my pleasure. + +I provided myself with whatever was desirable and necessary for spending +the winter at our settlement in Quebec. For this purpose I set out from +Paris the last day of February following, [356] and proceeded to Honfleur, +where the embarkation was to be made. I went by way of Rouen, where I +stayed two days. Thence I went to Honfleur, where I found Pont Grave and Le +Gendre, who told me they had embarked what was necessary for the +settlement. I was very glad to find that we were ready to set sail, but +uncertain whether the supplies were good and adequate for our sojourn and +for spending the winter. + +ENDNOTES: + +351. September, 1609. + +352. A small seaport town in the department of Finisterre, twelve miles + west of Brest. + +353. The Ochateguins, called by the French Hurons, were a branch of the + Iroquois. Their real name was Yendots. They were at this time allied + with the Algonquins, in a deadly war with their Iroquois cousins, the + Five Nations.--_Vide Gallatins Synopsis_, Transactions of Am. Antiq. + Society, Cambridge, 1836, Vol. II. p. 69, _et passim_. + +354. The Scarlet tanager, _Pyranga rubra_, of a scarlet color, with black + wings and tail. It ranges from Texas to Lake Huron. + +355. _Vide antea_, p. 216; and map. 1612. + +356. Anno Domini 1610. + + + +SECOND VOYAGE +OF +SIEUR. DE CHAMPLAIN +TO NEW FRANCE, IN THE YEAR 1610. + + + +CHAPTER I. + +DEPARTURE FROM FRANCE TO RETURN TO NEW FRANCE, AND OCCURRENCES UNTIL OUR +ARRIVAL AT THE SETTLEMENT. + + +The weather having become favorable, I embarked at Honfleur with a number +of artisans on the 7th of the month of March. [357] But, encountering bad +weather in the Channel, we were obliged to put in on the English coast at a +place called Porlan, [358] in the roadstead of which we stayed some days, +when we weighed anchor for the Isle d'Huy, [359] near the English coast, +since we found the roadstead of Porlan very bad. When near this island, so +dense a fog arose, that we were obliged to put in at the Hougue. [360] + +Ever since the departure from Honfleur, I had been afflicted with a very +severe illness, which took away my hopes of being able to make the voyage; +so that I embarked in a boat to return to Havre in France, to be treated +there, being very ill on board the vessel. My expectation was, on +recovering my health, to embark again in another vessel, which had not yet +left Honfleur, in which Des Marais, son-in-law of Pont Grave, was to +embark; but I had myself carried, still very ill, to Honfleur, where the +vessel on which I had set out put in on the 15th of March, for some +ballast, which it needed in order to be properly trimmed. Here it remained +until the 8th of April. During this time, I recovered in a great degree; +and, though still feeble and weak, I nevertheless embarked again. + +We set out anew on the 18th of April, arriving at the Grand Bank on the +19th, and fighting the Islands of St. Pierre on the 22nd. [361] When off +Menthane, we met a vessel from St. Malo, on which was a young man, who, +while drinking to the health of Pont Grave, lost control of himself and was +thrown into the Sea by the motion of the vessel and drowned, it being +impossible to render him assistance on account of the violence of the wind. + +On the 26th of the month, we arrived at Tadoussac, where there were vessels +which had arrived on the 18th, a thing which had not been seen for more +than sixty years, as the old mariners said who sail regularly to this +country. [362] This was owing to the mild winter and the small amount of +ice, which did not prevent the entrance of these vessels. We learned from a +young nobleman, named Sieur du Parc, who had spent the winter at our +settlement, that all his companions were in good health, only a few having +been ill, and they but slightly. He also informed us that there had been +scarcely any winter, and that they had usually had fresh meat the entire +season, and that their hardest task had been to keep up good cheer. + +This winter shows how those undertaking in future such enterprises ought to +proceed, it being very difficult to make a new settlement without labor; +and without encountering adverse fortune the first year, as has been the +case in all our first settlements. But, in fact, by avoiding salt food and +using fresh meat, the health is as good here as in France. + +The savages had been waiting from day to day for us to go to the war with +them. When they learned that Pont Grave and I had arrived together, they +rejoiced greatly, and came to speak with us. + +I went on shore to assure them that we would go with them, in conformity +with the promises they had made me, namely, that upon our return from the +war they would show me the Trois Rivieres, and take me to a sea so large +that the end of it cannot be seen, whence we should return by way of the +Saguenay to Tadoussac. I asked them if they still had this intention, to +which they replied that they had, but that it could not be carried out +before the next year, which pleased me. But I had promised the Algonquins +and Ochateguins that I would assist them also in their wars, they having +promised to show me their country, the great lake, some copper mines, and +other things, which they had indicated to me. I accordingly had two strings +to my bow, so that, in case one should break, the other might hold. + +On the 28th of the month, I set out from Tadoussac for Quebec, where I +found Captain Pierre, [363] who commanded there, and all his companions in +good health. There was also a savage captain with them, named Batiscan, +with some of his companions, who were awaiting us, and who were greatly +pleased at my arrival, singing and dancing the entire evening. I provided a +banquet for them, which gratified them very much. They had a good meal, for +which they were very thankful, and invited me with seven others to an +entertainment of theirs, not a small mark of respect with them. We each +one carried a porringer, according to custom, and brought it home full of +meat, which we gave to whomsoever we pleased. + +Some days after I had set out from Tadoussac, the Montagnais arrived at +Quebec, to the number of sixty able-bodied men, en route for the war. They +tarried here some days, enjoying themselves, and not omitting to ply me +frequently with questions, to assure themselves that I would not fail in my +promises to them. I assured them, and again made promises to them, asking +them if they had found me breaking my word in the past. They were greatly +pleased when I renewed my promises to them. + +They said to me: "Here are numerous Basques and Mistigoches" (this is the +name they give to the Normans and people of St. Malo), "who say they will +go to the war with us. What do you think of it? Do they speak the truth?" +I answered no, and that I knew very well what they really meant; that they +said this only to get possession of their commodities. They replied to me: +"You have spoken the truth. They are women, and want to make war only upon +our beavers." They went on talking still farther in a facetious mood, and +in regard to the manner and order of going to the war. + +They determined to set out, and await me at the Trois Rivieres, thirty +leagues above Quebec, where I had promised to join them, together with four +barques loaded with merchandise, in order to traffic in peltries, among +others with the Ochateguins, who were to await me at the mouth of the river +of the Iroquois, as they had promised the year before, and to bring there +as many as four hundred men to go to the war. + + +ENDNOTES: + +357. In the title above, Champlain calls this his SECOND VOYAGE, by which + he means doubtless to say that this is the second voyage which he had + undertaken as lieutenant. The first and second voyages, of 1603 and of + 1604, were not made under his direction. + +358. Portland in Dorsetshire, England. + +359. _Isle d'Huy_. This plainly refers to the Isle of Wight. On Ortelius's + carte of 1603. it is spelled Vigt: and the orthography, obtained + probably through the ear and not the eye, might easily have been + mistaken by Champlain. + +360. _La Hougue_. There are two small islands laid down on the carte of + Ortelius. 1603, under the name _Les Hougueaux_, and a hamlet nearby + called Hougo, which is that, doubtless, to which Chaimplain here + refers. + +361. Comparing this statement with the context, it will be clear that the + passage should read the 8th, and not the 18th of April. The "Islands + of St. Pierre," _Isles S. Pierre_, includes the Island of St. Peter + and the cluster surrounding it. + +362. M. Ferland infers from this statement that the Basques, Normans, and + Bretons had been accustomed for the last sixty years, from the last + voyage of Roberval in 1549, to extend their fishing and fur-trading + voyages as far as Tadoussac.--_Vide Cours d'Hist. du Canada_, as cited + by Laverdiere. + +363. Captain Pierre Chavin, of Dieppe. _Vide antea_, p. 227. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +DEPARTURE FROM QUEBEC TO ASSIST OUR ALLIED SAVAGES IN THEIR WAR AGAINST THE +IROQUOIS, THEIR ENEMIES; AND ALL THAT TRANSPIRED UNTIL OUR RETURN TO THE +SETTLEMENT. + + +I set out from Quebec on the 14th of June, to meet the Montagnais, +Algonquins, and Ochateguins, who were to be at the mouth of the river of +the Iroquois. When I was eight leagues from Quebec, I met a canoe, +containing two savages, one an Algonquin, and the other a Montagnais, who +entreated me to advance as rapidly as possible, saying that the Algonquins +and Ochateguins would in two days be at the rendezvous, to the number of +two hundred, with two hundred others to come a little later, together with +Yroquet, one of their chiefs. They asked me if I was satisfied with the +coming of these savages. I told them I could not be displeased at it, since +they had kept their word. They came on board my barque, where I gave them a +good entertainment. Shortly after conferring with them about many matters +concerning their wars, the Algonquin savage, one of their chiefs, drew from +a sack a piece of copper a foot long, which he gave me. This was very +handsome and quite pure. He gave me to understand that there were large +quantities where he had taken this, which was on the bank of a river, near +a great lake. He said that they gathered it in lumps, and, having melted +it, spread it in sheets, smoothing it with stones. I was very glad of this +present, although of small value. [364] + +Arriving at Trois Rivieres, I found all the Montagnais awaiting me, and the +four barques as I stated above, which had gone to trade with them. + +The savages were delighted to see me, and I went on shore to speak with +them. They entreated me, together with my companions, to embark on their +canoes and no others, when we went to the war, saying that they were our +old friends. This I promised them, telling them that I desired to set out +at once, since the wind was favorable; and that my barque was not so swift +as their canoes, for which reason I desired to go on in advance. They +earnestly entreated me to wait until the morning of the next day, when we +would all go together, adding that they would not go faster than I should. +Finally, to satisfy them, I promised to do this, at which they were greatly +pleased. + +On the following day, we all set out together, and continued our route +until the morning of the next day, the 19th of the month, when we arrived +at an island [365] off the river of the Iroquois, and waited for the +Algonquins, who were to be there the same day. While the Montagnais were +felling trees to clear a place for dancing, and for arranging themselves +for the arrival of the Algonquins, an Algonquin canoe was suddenly seen +coming in haste, to bring word that the Algonquins had fallen in with a +hundred Iroquois, who were strongly barricaded, and that it would be +difficult to conquer them, unless they should come speedily, together with +the Matigoches, as they call us. + +The alarm at once sounded among them, and each one got into his canoe with +his arms. They were quickly in readiness, but with confusion; for they were +so precipitous that, instead of making haste, they hindered one another. +They came to our barque and the others, begging me, together with my +companions, to go with them in their canoes, and they were so urgent that I +embarked with four others. I requested our pilot, La Routte, to stay in the +barque, and send me some four or five more of my companions, if the other +barques would send some shallops with men to aid us; for none of the +barques were inclined to go with the savages, except Captain Thibaut, who, +having a barque there, went with me. The savages cried out to those who +remained, saying that they were woman-hearted, and that all they could do +was to make war upon their peltry. + +Meanwhile, after going some half a league, all the savages crossing the +river landed, and, leaving their canoes, took their bucklers, bows, arrows, +clubs, and swords, which they attach to the end of large sticks, and +proceeded to make their way in the woods, so fast that we soon lost sight +of them, they leaving us, five in number, without guides. This displeased +us; but, keeping their tracks constantly in sight, we followed them, +although we were often deceived. We went through dense woods, and over +swamps and marshes, with the water always up to our knees, greatly +encumbered by a pike-man's corselet, with which each one was armed. We were +also tormented in a grievous and unheard-of manner by quantities of +mosquitoes, which were so thick that they scarcely permitted us to draw +breath. After going about half a league under these circumstances, and no +longer knowing where we were, we perceived two savages passing through the +woods, to whom we called and told them to stay with us, and guide us to the +whereabouts of the Iroquois, otherwise we could not go there, and should +get lost in the woods. They stayed to guide us. After proceeding a short +distance, we saw a savage coming in haste to us, to induce us to advance as +rapidly as possible, giving me to understand that the Algonquins and +Montagnais had tried to force the barricade of the Iroquois but had been +repulsed, that some of the best men of the Montagnais had been killed in +the attempt, and several wounded, and that they had retired to wait for us, +in whom was their only hope. We had not gone an eighth of a league with +this savage, who was an Algonquin captain, before we heard the yells and +cries on both sides, as they jeered at each other, and were skirmishing +slightly while awaiting us. As soon as the savages perceived us, they began +to shout, so that one could not have heard it thunder. I gave orders to my +companions to follow me steadily, and not to leave me on any account. I +approached the barricade of the enemy, in order to reconnoitre it. It was +constructed of large trees placed one upon an other, and of a circular +shape, the usual form of their fortifications. All the Montagnais and +Algonquins approached likewise the barricade. Then we commenced firing +numerous musket-shots through the brush-wood, since we could not see them, +as they could us. I was wounded while firing my first shot at the side of +their barricade by an arrow, which pierced the end of my ear and entered my +neck. I seized the arrow, and tore it from my neck. The end of it was armed +with a very sharp stone. One of my companions also was wounded at the same +time in the arm by an arrow, which I tore out for him. Yet my wound did +not prevent me from doing my duty: our savages also, on their part, as well +as the enemy, did their duty, so that you could see the arrows fly on all +sides as thick as hail. The Iroquois were astonished at the noise of our +muskets, and especially that the balls penetrated better than their +arrows. They were so frightened at the effect produced that, seeing +several, of their companions fall wounded and dead, they threw themselves +on the ground whenever they heard a discharge, supposing that the shots +were sure. We scarcely ever missed firing two or three balls at one shot, +resting our muskets most of the time on the side of their barricade. But, +seeing that our ammunition began to fail, I said to all the savages that it +was necessary to break down their barricades and capture them by storm; and +that, in order to accomplish this, they must take their shields, cover +themselves with them, and thus approach so near as to be able to fasten +stout ropes to the posts that supported the barricades, and pull them down +by main strength, in that way making an opening large enough to permit them +to enter the fort. I told them that we would meanwhile, by our +musketry-fire, keep off the enemy, as they endeavored to prevent them from +accomplishing this; also that a number of them should get behind some large +trees, which were near the barricade, in order to throw them down upon the +enemy, and that others should protect these with their shields, in order to +keep the enemy from injuring them. All this they did very promptly. And, as +they were about finishing the work, the barques, distant a league and a +half, hearing the reports of our muskets, knew that we were engaged in +conflict; and a young man from St. Malo, full of courage, Des Prairies by +name, who like the rest had come with his barque to engage in peltry +traffic, said to his companions that it was a great shame to let me fight +in this way with the savages without coming to my assistance; that for his +part he had too high a sense of honor to permit him to do so, and that he +did not wish to expose himself to this reproach. Accordingly, he determined +to come to me in a shallop with some of his companions, together with some +of mine whom he took with him. Immediately upon his arrival, he went +towards the fort of the Iroquois, situated on the bank of the river. Here +he landed, and came to find me. Upon seeing him, I ordered our savages who +were breaking down the fortress to stop, so that the new-comers might have +their share of the sport. I requested Sieur des Prairies and his companions +to fire some salvos of musketry, before our savages should carry by storm +the enemy, as they had decided to do. This they did, each one firing +several shots, in which all did their duty well. After they had fired +enough, I addressed myself to our savages, urging them to finish the +work. Straightway, they approached the barricade, as they had previously +done, while we on the flank were to fire at those who should endeavor to +keep them from breaking it down. They behaved so well and bravely that, +with the help of our muskets, they made an opening, which, however, was +difficult to go through, as there was still left a portion as high as a +man, there being also branches of trees there which had been beaten down, +forming a serious obstacle. But, when I saw that the entrance was quite +practicable, I gave orders not to fire any more, which they obeyed. At the +same instant, some twenty or thirty, both of savages and of our own men, +entered, sword in hand, without finding much resistance. Immediately, all +who were unharmed took to flight. But they did not proceed far; for they +were brought down by those around the barricade, and those who escaped were +drowned in the river. We captured some fifteen prisoners, the rest being +killed by musket-shots, arrows, and the sword. When the fight was over, +there came another shallop, containing some of my companions. This although +behind time, was yet in season for the booty, which, however, was not of +much account. There were only robes of beaver-skin, and dead bodies, +covered with blood, which the savages would not take the trouble to +plunder, laughing at those in the last shallop, who did so; for the others +did not engage in such low business. This, then, is the victory obtained by +God's grace, for gaining which they gave us much praise. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +FORT DES IROQUOIS. + +_A_. The fort of the Iroquois. +_B_. The Iroquois throwing themselves into the river to escape the pursuit + of the Montagnais and Algonquins who followed for the purpose of + killing them. +_D_. Sieur de Champlain and five of his men. +_E_. The savages friendly to us. +_F_. Sieur des Prairies of St. Malo with his comrades. +_G_. Shallop of Sieur des Prairies. +_H_. Great trees cut down for the purpose of destroying the fort of the + Iroquois. + + * * * * * + +The savages scalped the dead, and took the heads as a trophy of victory, +according to their custom. They returned with fifty wounded Montagnais and +Algonquins and three dead, singing and leading their prisoners with them. +They attached to sticks in the prows of their canoes the heads and a dead +body cut into quarters, to eat in revenge, as they said. In this way, they +went to our barques off the River of the Iroquois. + +My companions and I embarked in a shallop, where I had my wound dressed by +the surgeon, De Boyer, of Rouen, who likewise had come here for the purpose +of traffic. The savages spent all this day in dancing and singing. + +The next day, Sieur de Pont Grave arrived with another shallop, loaded with +merchandise. Moreover, there was also a barque containing Captain Pierre, +which he had left behind, it being able to come only with difficulty, as it +was rather heavy and a poor sailer. + +The same day there was some trading in peltry, but the other barques +carried off the better part of the booty. It was doing them a great favor +to search out a strange people for them, that they might afterwards carry +off the profit without any risk or danger. + +That day, I asked the savages for an Iroquois prisoner which they had, and +they gave him to me. What I did for him was not a little; for I saved him +from many tortures which he must have suffered in company with his +fellow-prisoners; whole nails they tore out, also cutting off their +fingers, and burning them in several places. They put to death on the same +day two or three, and, in order to increase their torture, treated them in +the following manner. + +They took the prisoners to the border of the water, and fastened them +perfectly upright to a stake. Then each came with a torch of birch bark, +and burned them, now in this place, now in that. The poor wretches, feeling +the fire, raised so loud a cry that it was something frightful to hear; and +frightful indeed are the cruelties which these barbarians practise towards +each other. After making them suffer greatly in this manner and burning +them with the above-mentioned bark, taking some water, they threw it on +their bodies to increase their suffering. Then they applied the fire anew, +so that the skin fell from their bodies, they continuing to utter loud +cries and exclamations, and dancing until the poor wretches fell dead on +the spot. + +As soon as a body fell to the ground dead, they struck it violent blows +with sticks, when they cut off the arms, legs, and other parts; and he was +not regarded by them as manly, who did not cut off a piece of the flesh, +and give it to the dogs. Such are the courtesies prisoners receive. But +still they endure all the tortures inflicted upon them with such constancy +that the spectator is astonished. + +As to the other prisoners, which remained in possession of the Algonquins +and Montagnais, it was left to their wives and daughters to put them to +death with their own hands; and, in such a matter, they do not show +themselves less inhuman than the men, but even surpass them by far in +cruelty; for they devise by their cunning more cruel punishments, in which +they take pleasure, putting an end to their lives by the most extreme +pains. + +The next day there arrived the Captain Yroquet, also another Ochateguin, +with some eighty men, who regretted greatly not having been present at the +defeat. Among all these tribes there were present nearly two hundred men, +who had never before seen Christians, for whom they conceived a great +admiration. + +We were some three days together on an island off the river of the +Iroquois, when each tribe returned to its own country. + +I had a young lad, who had already spent two winters at Quebec, and who was +desirous of going with the Algonquins to learn their language. Pont Grave +and I concluded that, if he entertained this desire, it would be better to +send him to this place than elsewhere, that he might ascertain the nature +of their country, see the great lake, observe the rivers and tribes there, +and also explore the mines and objects of special interest in the +localities occupied by these tribes, in order that he might inform us upon +his return, of the facts of the case. We asked him if it was his desire to +go, for I did not wish to force him. But he answered the question at once +by consenting to the journey with great pleasure. + +Going to Captain Yroquet, who was strongly attached to me, I asked him if +he would like to take this young boy to his country to spend the winter +with him, and bring him back in the spring. He promised to do so, and treat +him as his own son, saying that he was greatly pleased with the idea. He +communicated the plan to all the Algonquins, who were not greatly pleased +with it, from fear that some accident might happen to the boy, which would +cause us to make war upon them. This hesitation cooled the desire of +Yroquet, who came and told me that all his companions failed to find the +plan a good one. Meanwhile, all the barques had left, excepting that of +Pont Grave, who, having some pressing business on hand, as he told me, went +away too. But I stayed with my barque to see how the matter of the journey +of this boy, which I was desirous should take place, would result. I +accordingly went on shore, and asked to speak with the captains, who came +to me, and we sat down for a conference, together with many other savages +of age and distinction in their troops. Then I asked them why Captain +Yroquet, whom I regarded as my friend, had refused to take my boy with +him. I said that it was not acting like a brother or friend to refuse me +what he had promised, and what could result in nothing but good to them; +taking the boy would be a means of increasing still more our friendship +with them and forming one with their neighbors; that their scruples at +doing so only gave me an unfavorable opinion of them; and that if they +would not take the boy, as Captain Yroquet had promised, I would never have +any friendship with them, for they were not children to break their +promises in this manner. They then told me that they were satisfied with +the arrangement, only they feared that, from change of diet to something +worse than he had been accustomed to, some harm might happen to the boy, +which would provoke my displeasure. This they said was the only cause of +their refusal. + +I replied that the boy would be able to adapt himself without difficulty to +their manner of living and usual food, and that, if through sickness or the +fortunes of war any harm should befall him, this would not interrupt my +friendly feelings towards them, and that we were all exposed to accidents, +which we must submit to with patience. But I said that if they treated him +badly, and if any misfortune happened to him through their fault, I should +in truth be displeased, which, however, I did not expect from them, but +quite the contrary. + +They said to me: "Since then, this is your desire, we will take him, and +treat him like ourselves. But you shall also take a young man in his place, +to go to France. We shall be greatly pleased to hear him report the fine +things he shall have seen." I accepted with pleasure the proposition, and +took the young man. He belonged to the tribe of the Ochateguins, and was +also glad to go with me. This presented an additional motive for treating +my boy still better than they might otherwise have done. I fitted him out +with what he needed, and we made a mutual promise to meet at the end of +June. + +We parted with many promises of friendship. Then they went away towards the +great fall of the River of Canada, while I returned to Quebec. On my way, I +met Pont Grave on Lake St. Peter, who was waiting for me with a large +patache, which he had fallen in with on this lake, and which had not been +expeditious enough to reach the place where the savages were, on account of +its poor sailing qualities. + +We all returned together to Quebec, when Pont Grave went to Tadoussac, to +arrange some matters pertaining to our quarters there. But I stayed at +Quebec to see to the reconstruction of some palisades about our abode, +until Pont Grave should return, when we could confer together as to what +was to be done. + +On the 4th of June, Des Marais arrived at Quebec, greatly to our joy; for +we were afraid that some accident had happened to him at sea. + +Some days after, an Iroquois prisoner, whom I had kept guarded, got away in +consequence of my giving him too much liberty, and made his escape, urged +to do so by fear, notwithstanding the assurances given him by a woman of +his tribe we had at our settlement. + +A few days after, Pont Grave wrote me that he was thinking of passing the +winter at the settlement, being moved to do so by many considerations. I +replied that, if he expected to fare better than I had done in the past, he +would do well. + +He accordingly hastened to provide himself with the supplies necessary for +the settlement. + +After I had finished the palisade about our habitation, and put every thing +in order, Captain Pierre returned in a barque in which he had gone to +Tadoussac to see his friends. I also went there to ascertain what would +result from the second trading, and to attend to some other special +business which I had there. Upon my arrival, I found there Pont Grave, who +stated to me in detail his plans, and the reasons inducing him to spend the +winter. I told him frankly what I thought of the matter; namely, that I +believed he would not derive much profit from it, according to the +appearances that were plainly to be seen. + +He determined accordingly to change his plan, and despatched a barque with +orders for Captain Pierre to return from Quebec on account of some business +he had with him; with the intelligence also that some vessels, which had +arrived from Brouage, brought the news that Monsieur de Saint Luc had come +by post from Paris, expelled those of the religion from Brouage, +re-enforced the garrison with soldiers, and then returned to Court; [366] +that the king had been killed, and two or three days after him the Duke of +Sully, together with two other lords, whose names they did not know. [367] + +All these tidings gave great sorrow to the true French in these quarters. +As for myself, it was hard for me to believe it, on account of the +different reports about the matter, and which had not much appearance of +truth. Still, I was greatly troubled at hearing such mournful news. + +Now, after having stayed three or four days longer at Tadoussac, I saw the +loss which many merchants must suffer, who had taken on board a large +quantity of merchandise, and fitted out a great number of vessels, in +expectation of doing a good business in the fur-trade, which was so poor on +account of the great number of vessels, that many will for a long time +remember the loss which they suffered this year. + +Sieur de Pont Grave and I embarked, each of us in a barque, leaving Captain +Pierre on the vessel. We took Du Parc to Quebec, where we finished what +remained to be done at the settlement. After every thing was in good +condition, we resolved that Du Parc, who had wintered there with Captain +Pierre, should remain again, and that Captain Pierre should return to +France with us, on account of some business that called him there. + +We accordingly left Du Parc in command there, with sixteen men, all of whom +we enjoined to live soberly, and in the fear of God, and in strict +observance of the obedience due to the authority of Du Parc, who was left +as their chief and commander, just as if one of us had remained. This they +all promised to do, and to live in peace with each other. + +As to the gardens, we left them all well supplied with kitchen vegetables +of all sorts, together with fine Indian corn, wheat, rye, and barley, which +had been already planted. There were also vines which I had set out when I +spent the winter there, but these they made no attempt to preserve; for, +upon my return, I found them all in ruins, and I was greatly displeased +that they had given so little attention to the preservation of so fine and +good a plot, from which I had anticipated a favorable result. + +After seeing that every thing was in good order, we set out from Quebec on +the 8th of August for Tadoussac, in order to prepare our vessel, which was +speedily done. + + +ENDNOTES: + +364. This testimony of the Algonquin chief is interesting, and historically + important. We know of no earlier reference to the art of melting and + malleating copper in any of the reports of the navigators to our + northern coast. That the natives possessed this art is placed beyond + question by this passage, as well as by the recent discovery of copper + implements in Wisconsin, bearing the marks of mechanical fusion and + malleation. The specimens of copper in the possession of the natives + on the coast of New England, as referred to by Brereton and Archer, + can well be accounted for without supposing them to be of native + manufacture, though they may have been so. The Basques, Bretons, + English, and Portuguese had been annually on our northern coasts for + fishing and fur-trading for more than a century, and had distributed a + vast quantity of articles for savage ornament and use; and it would, + therefore, be difficult to prove that the copper chains and collars + and other trinkets mentioned by Brereton and Archer were not derived + from this source. But the testimony of the early navigators in the + less frequented region of the St. Lawrence is not open to this + interpretation. When Cartier advanced up the Gulf of Lawrence in 1535, + the savages pointed out the region of the Saguenay, which they + informed him was inhabited, and that from thence came the red copper + which they called _caignetdaze_. + + "Et par les sauuaiges que auions, nous a esse dict que cestoit le + commencement du Saguenay & terre habitable. Et que de la ve noit le + cuyure rouge qu'ilz appellent caignetdaze."--_Brief Recit_, par + Jacques Cartier, 1545. D'Avezac ed., p. 9. _Vide idem_, p. 34. + + When Cartier was at Isle Coudres, say fifty miles below Quebec, on his + return, the Indians from the Saguenay came on board his ship, and made + certain presents to their chief, Donnacona, whom Cartier had captured, + and was taking home with him to France. Among these gifts, they gave + him a great knife of red copper, which came from the Saguenay. The + words of Cartier are as follows:-- + + "Donnerent audict Donnaconan trois pacquetz de peaulx de byeures & + loups marins avec vng grand cousteau de cuyure rouge, qui vient du + Saguenay & autres choses."--_Idem_, p. 44. + + This voyage of Cartier, made in 1535, was the earliest visit by any + navigator on record to this region. It was eighty years before the + Recollects or any other missionaries had approached the Gulf of + St. Lawrence. There was, therefore, no intercourse previous to this + that would be likely to furnish the natives with European utensils of + any kind, particularly knives of _red copper_. It is impossible to + suppose that this knife, seen by Cartier, and declared by the natives + to have come from the Saguenay, a term then covering an indefinite + region stretching we know not how far to the north and west, could be + otherwise than of Indian manufacture. In the text, Champlain + distinctly states on the testimony of an Algonquin chief that it was + the custom of the Indians to melt copper for the purpose of forming it + into sheets, and it is obvious that it would require scarcely greater + ingenuity to fabricate moulds in which to cast the various implements + which they needed in their simple arts. Some of these implements, with + indubitable marks of having been cast in moulds, have been recently + discovered, with a multitude of others, which may or may not have + passed through the same process. The testimony of Champlain in the + text, and the examples of moulded copper found in the lake region, + render the evidence, in our judgment, entirely conclusive that the art + of working copper both by fusion and malleation existed among the + Indians of America at the time of its first occupation by the French. + + During the period of five years, beginning in 1871, an enthusiastic + antiquary, Mr. F. S. Perkins, of Wisconsin, collected, within the + borders of his own State, a hundred and forty-two copper implements, + of a great variety of forms, and designed for numerous uses, as axes, + hatchets, spear-heads, arrowheads, knives, gouges, chisels, adzes, + augers, gads, drills, and other articles of anomalous forms. These are + now deposited in the archives of the Historical Society of + Wisconsin. Other collections are gradually forming. The process is of + necessity slow, as they are not often found in groups, but singly, + here and there, as they are turned up by the plough or spade or other + implements of husbandry. The statement of Champlain in the text, and + the testimony of Carrier three-quarters of a century earlier, to which + we have referred, give a new historical significance to these recent + discoveries, and both together throw a fresh light upon the + prehistoric period. + +365. This was the Island St. Ignace, which lies opposite the mouth of the + river Iroquois or Richelieu. Champlain's description is not + sufficiently definite to enable us to identify the exact location of + this conflict with the savages. It is, however, evident, from several + intimations found in the text, that it was about a league from the + mouth of the Richelieu, and was probably on the bank of that river. + +366. For some account of Saint Luc, see Memoir, Vol. I. By those of the + religion, _ceux de la Religion_, are meant the Huguenots, or + Protestants. + +367. The assassination of Henry IV. occurred on the 14th of May, 1610; but + the rumor of the death of the Duke of Sully was erroneous. Maximelien + de Bethune, the Duke of Sully, died on the 22d of December, 1641, at + the age of eighty-two years. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +RETURN TO FRANCE.--MEETING A WHALE;--THE MODE OF CAPTURING THEM. + + +On the 13th of the month, we set out from Tadoussac, arriving at Ile Percee +the next day, where we found a large number of vessels engaged in the +fishery, dry and green. + +On the 18th of the month, we departed from Ile Percee, passing in latitude +42 deg., without sighting the Grand Bank, where the green fishery is carried +on, as it is too narrow at this altitude. + +When we were about half way across, we encountered a whale, which was +asleep. The vessel, passing over him, awakening him betimes, made a great +hole in him near the tail, without damaging our vessel; but he threw out an +abundance of blood. + +It has seemed to me not out of place to give here a brief description of +the mode of catching whales, which many have not witnessed, and suppose +that they are shot, owing to the false assertions about the matter made to +them in their ignorance by impostors, and on account of which such ideas +have often been obstinately maintained in my presence. + +Those, then, most skilful in this fishery are the Basques, who, for the +purpose of engaging in it, take their vessels to a place of security, and +near where they think whales are plenty. Then they equip several shallops +manned by competent men and provided with hawsers, small ropes made of the +best hemp to be found, at least a hundred and fifty fathoms long. They are +also provided with many halberds of the length of a short pike, whose iron +is six inches broad; others are from a foot and a half to two feet long, +and very sharp. Each shallop has a harpooner, the most agile and adroit man +they have, whose pay is next highest to that of the masters, his position +being the most dangerous one. This shallop being outside of the port, the +men look in all quarters for a whale, tacking about in all directions. But, +if they see nothing, they return to the shore, and ascend the highest point +they can find, and from which they can get the most extensive view. Here +they station a man on the look-out. They are aided in catching sight of a +whale both by his size and the water he spouts through his blow-holes, +which is more than a puncheon at a time, and two lances high. From the +amount of this water, they estimate how much oil he will yield. From some +they get as many as one hundred and twenty puncheons, from others less. +Having caught sight of this monstrous fish, they hasten to embark in their +shallops, and by rowing or sailing they advance until they are upon him. + +Seeing him under water, the harpooner goes at once to the prow of the +shallop with his harpoon, an iron two feet long and half a foot wide at the +lower part, and attached to a stick as long as a small pike, in the middle +of which is a hole to which the hawser is made fast. The harpooner, +watching his time, throws his harpoon at the whale, which enters him well +forward. As soon as he finds himself wounded, the whale goes down. And if +by chance turning about, as he does sometimes, his tail strikes the +shallop, it breaks it like glass. This is the only risk they run of being +killed in harpooning. As soon as they have thrown the harpoon into him, +they let the hawser run until the whale reaches the bottom. But sometimes +he does not go straight to the bottom, when he drags the shallop eight or +nine leagues or more, going as swiftly as a horse. Very often they are +obliged to cut their hawser, for fear that the whale will take them +underwater. But, when he goes straight to the bottom, he rests there +awhile, and then returns quietly to the surface, the men taking aboard +again the hawser as he rises. When he comes to the top, two or three +shallops are stationed around with halberds, with which they give him +several blows. Finding himself struck, the whale goes down again, leaving a +trail of blood, and grows weak to such an extent that he has no longer any +strength nor energy, and returning to the surface is finally killed. When +dead, he does not go down again; fastening stout ropes to him, they drag +him ashore to their head-quarters, the place where they pry out the fat of +the whale, to obtain his oil. This is the way whales are taken, and not by +cannon-shots, which many suppose, as I have stated above. + +To resume the thread of my narrative: after wounding the whale, as +mentioned, we captured a great many porpoises, which our mate harpooned to +our pleasure and amusement. We also caught a great many fish having a +large ear, with a hook and line, attaching to the hook a little fish +resembling a herring, and letting it trail behind the vessel. The large +ear, thinking it in fact a living fish, comes up to swallow it, thus +finding himself at once caught by the hook, which is concealed in the body +of the little fish. This fish is very good, and has certain tufts which are +very handsome, and resemble those worn on plumes. + +On the 22d of September, we arrived on soundings. Here we saw twenty +vessels some four leagues to the west of us, which, as they appeared from +our vessel, we judged to be Flemish. + +On the 25th of the month, we sighted the Isle de Greneze, [368] after +experiencing a strong blow, which lasted until noon. + +On the 27th of the month, we arrived at Honfleur. + +ENDNOTES: + +368. Guernsey, which lay directly before them as they advanced up the + English Channel, and was the first large island that met the eye on + their way to Honfleur. + + + + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Voyages of Samuel de Champlain, Vol. 2, by +Samuel de Champlain + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK VOYAGES OF DE CHAMPLAIN, VOL 2 *** + +***** This file should be named 6749.txt or 6749.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/6/7/4/6749/ + +Produced by Karl Hagen, Juliet Sutherland, Charles Franks, +and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team. Images +provided courtesy of www.canadiana.org. + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will +be renamed. + +Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright +law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, +so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United +States without permission and without paying copyright +royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part +of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm +concept and trademark. Project Gutenberg is a registered trademark, +and may not be used if you charge for the eBooks, unless you receive +specific permission. If you do not charge anything for copies of this +eBook, complying with the rules is very easy. You may use this eBook +for nearly any purpose such as creation of derivative works, reports, +performances and research. They may be modified and printed and given +away--you may do practically ANYTHING in the United States with eBooks +not protected by U.S. copyright law. Redistribution is subject to the +trademark license, especially commercial redistribution. + +START: FULL LICENSE + +THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE +PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK + +To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free +distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work +(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project +Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full +Project Gutenberg-tm License available with this file or online at +www.gutenberg.org/license. + +Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works + +1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to +and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property +(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all +the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or +destroy all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your +possession. If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a +Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound +by the terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the +person or entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph +1.E.8. + +1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be +used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who +agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few +things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See +paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this +agreement and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works. See paragraph 1.E below. + +1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the +Foundation" or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection +of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual +works in the collection are in the public domain in the United +States. If an individual work is unprotected by copyright law in the +United States and you are located in the United States, we do not +claim a right to prevent you from copying, distributing, performing, +displaying or creating derivative works based on the work as long as +all references to Project Gutenberg are removed. Of course, we hope +that you will support the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting +free access to electronic works by freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm +works in compliance with the terms of this agreement for keeping the +Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with the work. You can easily +comply with the terms of this agreement by keeping this work in the +same format with its attached full Project Gutenberg-tm License when +you share it without charge with others. + +1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern +what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are +in a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, +check the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this +agreement before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, +distributing or creating derivative works based on this work or any +other Project Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no +representations concerning the copyright status of any work in any +country outside the United States. + +1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: + +1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other +immediate access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear +prominently whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work +on which the phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the +phrase "Project Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, +performed, viewed, copied or distributed: + + This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and + most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no + restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it + under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this + eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the + United States, you'll have to check the laws of the country where you + are located before using this ebook. + +1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is +derived from texts not protected by U.S. copyright law (does not +contain a notice indicating that it is posted with permission of the +copyright holder), the work can be copied and distributed to anyone in +the United States without paying any fees or charges. If you are +redistributing or providing access to a work with the phrase "Project +Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the work, you must comply +either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 or +obtain permission for the use of the work and the Project Gutenberg-tm +trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted +with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution +must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any +additional terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms +will be linked to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works +posted with the permission of the copyright holder found at the +beginning of this work. + +1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this +work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. + +1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this +electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without +prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with +active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project +Gutenberg-tm License. + +1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, +compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including +any word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access +to or distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format +other than "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official +version posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site +(www.gutenberg.org), you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense +to the user, provide a copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means +of obtaining a copy upon request, of the work in its original "Plain +Vanilla ASCII" or other form. Any alternate format must include the +full Project Gutenberg-tm License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. + +1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, +performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works +unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing +access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +provided that + +* You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from + the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method + you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is owed + to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he has + agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the Project + Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments must be paid + within 60 days following each date on which you prepare (or are + legally required to prepare) your periodic tax returns. Royalty + payments should be clearly marked as such and sent to the Project + Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the address specified in + Section 4, "Information about donations to the Project Gutenberg + Literary Archive Foundation." + +* You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies + you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he + does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm + License. You must require such a user to return or destroy all + copies of the works possessed in a physical medium and discontinue + all use of and all access to other copies of Project Gutenberg-tm + works. + +* You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of + any money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the + electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days of + receipt of the work. + +* You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free + distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work or group of works on different terms than +are set forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing +from both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and The +Project Gutenberg Trademark LLC, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm +trademark. Contact the Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. + +1.F. + +1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable +effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread +works not protected by U.S. copyright law in creating the Project +Gutenberg-tm collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may +contain "Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate +or corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other +intellectual property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or +other medium, a computer virus, or computer codes that damage or +cannot be read by your equipment. + +1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right +of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project +Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all +liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal +fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT +LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE +PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE +TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE +LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR +INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH +DAMAGE. + +1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a +defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can +receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a +written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you +received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium +with your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you +with the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in +lieu of a refund. If you received the work electronically, the person +or entity providing it to you may choose to give you a second +opportunity to receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If +the second copy is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing +without further opportunities to fix the problem. + +1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth +in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO +OTHER WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT +LIMITED TO WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. + +1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied +warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of +damages. If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement +violates the law of the state applicable to this agreement, the +agreement shall be interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or +limitation permitted by the applicable state law. The invalidity or +unenforceability of any provision of this agreement shall not void the +remaining provisions. + +1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the +trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone +providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in +accordance with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the +production, promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works, harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, +including legal fees, that arise directly or indirectly from any of +the following which you do or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this +or any Project Gutenberg-tm work, (b) alteration, modification, or +additions or deletions to any Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any +Defect you cause. + +Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm + +Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of +electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of +computers including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It +exists because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations +from people in all walks of life. + +Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the +assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's +goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will +remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure +and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future +generations. To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation and how your efforts and donations can help, see +Sections 3 and 4 and the Foundation information page at +www.gutenberg.org Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit +501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the +state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal +Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification +number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent permitted by +U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. + +The Foundation's principal office is in Fairbanks, Alaska, with the +mailing address: PO Box 750175, Fairbanks, AK 99775, but its +volunteers and employees are scattered throughout numerous +locations. Its business office is located at 809 North 1500 West, Salt +Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887. Email contact links and up to +date contact information can be found at the Foundation's web site and +official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact + +For additional contact information: + + Dr. Gregory B. Newby + Chief Executive and Director + gbnewby@pglaf.org + +Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation + +Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide +spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of +increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be +freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest +array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations +($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt +status with the IRS. + +The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating +charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United +States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a +considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up +with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations +where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To SEND +DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any particular +state visit www.gutenberg.org/donate + +While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we +have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition +against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who +approach us with offers to donate. + +International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make +any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from +outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. + +Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation +methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other +ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. To +donate, please visit: www.gutenberg.org/donate + +Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works. + +Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project +Gutenberg-tm concept of a library of electronic works that could be +freely shared with anyone. For forty years, he produced and +distributed Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of +volunteer support. + +Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as not protected by copyright in +the U.S. unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not +necessarily keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper +edition. + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search +facility: www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. + diff --git a/6749.zip b/6749.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c247121 --- /dev/null +++ b/6749.zip diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..09f7edf --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #6749 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/6749) diff --git a/old/7vcv210.txt b/old/7vcv210.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..ce91902 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/7vcv210.txt @@ -0,0 +1,9488 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Voyages of Samuel de Champlain, Vol. 2 +by Samuel de Champlain + +Copyright laws are changing all over the world. Be sure to check the +copyright laws for your country before downloading or redistributing +this or any other Project Gutenberg eBook. + +This header should be the first thing seen when viewing this Project +Gutenberg file. Please do not remove it. Do not change or edit the +header without written permission. + +Please read the "legal small print," and other information about the +eBook and Project Gutenberg at the bottom of this file. Included is +important information about your specific rights and restrictions in +how the file may be used. You can also find out about how to make a +donation to Project Gutenberg, and how to get involved. + + +**Welcome To The World of Free Plain Vanilla Electronic Texts** + +**eBooks Readable By Both Humans and By Computers, Since 1971** + +*****These eBooks Were Prepared By Thousands of Volunteers!***** + + +Title: Voyages of Samuel de Champlain, Vol. 2 + +Author: Samuel de Champlain + +Release Date: October, 2004 [EBook #6749] +[Yes, we are more than one year ahead of schedule] +[This file was first posted on January 21, 2003] + +Edition: 10 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, VOYAGES OF SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN, VOL. 2 *** + + + + +Produced by Karl Hagen, Juliet Sutherland, Charles Franks, and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team. Images provided coutesy of www.canadiana.org. + + + +Transcriber's Notes: +The original text of this edition used tall-s. These have been replaced +with ordinary 's'. The original footnotes have been converted to endnotes +and placed at the end of each chapter. The original numbering has been +retained. The number 176-1/2 and presence of two notes numbered [283] are +both original. + +THE +PUBLICATIONS OF THE PRINCE SOCIETY +Established May 25th, 1858. + +CHAMPLAIN'S VOYAGES. + + +VOYAGES +OF +SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN. + +TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH +BY CHARLES POMEROY OTIS, PH.D. + +WITH HISTORICAL ILLUSTRATIONS, +AND A +MEMOIR + +BY THE REV. EDMUND F. SLAFTER, A.M. + +VOL. II. +1604-1610. + +HELIOTYPE COPIES OF TWENTY LOCAL MAPS. + +Editor: +THE REV. EDMUND F. SLAFTER, A.M. + + + + +PREFACE. + +Champlain's edition of 1613 contains, in connection with the preliminary +matter, two pieces of poetry, one signed L'ANGE, Paris, the other MOTIN. +They were contributed doubtless by some friend, intended to be +complimentary to the author, to embellish the volume and to give it a +favorable introduction to the reader. This was in conformity to a +prevailing custom of that period. They contain no intrinsic historical +interest or value whatever, and, if introduced, would not serve their +original purpose, but would rather be an incumbrance, and they have +consequently been omitted in the present work. + +Champlain also included a summary of chapters, identical with the headings +of chapters in this translation, evidently intended to take the place of an +index, which he did not supply. To repeat these headings would be +superfluous, particularly as this work is furnished with a copious index. + +The edition of 1613 was divided into two books. This division has been +omitted here, both as superfluous and confusing. + +The maps referred to on Champlain's title-page may be found in Vol. III. of +this work. In France, the needle deflects to the east; and the dial-plate, +as figured on the larger map, that of 1612, is constructed accordingly. On +it the line marked _nornordest_ represents the true north, while the index +is carried round to the left, and points out the variation of the needle to +the west. The map is oriented by the needle without reference to its +variation, but the true meridian is laid down by a strong line on which the +degrees of latitude are numbered. From this the points of the compass +between any two places may be readily obtained. + +A Note, relating to Hudson's discoveries in 1612, as delineated on +Champlain's small map, introduced by him in the prefatory matter, +apparently after the text had been struck off, will appear in connection +with the map itself, where it more properly belongs. + +E. F. S. + +BOSTON, 11 BEACON STREET, +October 21, 1878. + + + + +TABLE OF CONTENTS + +PREFACE +CHAMPLAIN'S DEDICATION OF HIS WORK TO THE KING +ADDRESS TO THE QUEEN REGENT +EXTRACT FROM THE LICENSE +VOYAGE 1604 TO 1608 +FIRST VOYAGE AS LIEUTENANT, 1608 TO 1610 +SECOND VOYAGE AS LIEUTENANT, 1610 +LOCAL MAPS: + Port de la Heve + Port du Roissignol + Port du Mouton + Port Royal + Port des Mines + Riviere St. Jehan + Isle de Sainte Croix + Habitation de L'Isle Ste. Croix + Quinibequy + Chouacoit R. + Port St. Louis + Malle Barre + L'Abitation du Port Royal + Le Beau Port + Port Fortune + The Attack at Port Fortune + Port de Tadoucac + Quebec + Abitation de Quebecq + Defeat of the Iroquois at Lake Champlain +INDEX + + + + +THE VOYAGES +OF SIEUR DE CHAMPLAIN, + +Of Saintonge, Captain in ordinary to the +King in the Marine. + +OR, + +_A MOST FAITHFUL JOURNAL OF OBSERVATIONS +made in the exploration of New France, describing not only the countries, +coasts, rivers, ports, and harbors, with their latitudes and the various +deflections of the Magnetic Needle, but likewise the religious belief of +the inhabitants, their superstitions, mode of life and warfare; furnished +with numerous illustrations_. + +Together with two geographical maps: the first for the purposes of +navigation, adapted to the compass as used by mariners, which deflects to +the north-east; the other in its true meridian, with longitudes and +latitudes, to which is added the Voyage to the Strait north of Labrador, +from the 53d to the 63d degree of latitude, discovered in 1612 by the +English when they were searching for a northerly course to China. + +PARIS. + +JEAN BERJON, + +Rue St. Jean de Beauvais, at the Flying Horse, +and at his store in the Palace, +at the gallery of the Prisoners. + +MDCXIII. + +_WITH AUTHORITY OF THE KING_. + + + + +TO THE KING. + +_Sire, + +Your Majesty has doubtless full knowledge of the discoveries made in your +service in New France, called Canada, through the descriptions, given by +certain Captains and Pilots, of the voyages and discoveries made there +during the past eighty years. These, however, present nothing so honorable +to your Kingdom, or so profitable to the service of your Majesty and your +subjects, as will, I doubt not, the maps of the coasts, harbors, rivers, +and the situation of the places described in this little treatise, which I +make bold to address to your Majesty, and which is entitled a Journal of +Voyages and Discoveries, which I have made in connection with Sieur de +Monts, your Lieutenant in New France. This I do, feeling myself urged by a +just sense of the honor I have received during the last ten years in +commissions, not only, Sire, from your Majesty, but also from the late +king, Henry the Great, of happy memory, who commissioned me to make the +most exact researches and explorations in my power. This I have done, and +added, moreover, the maps contained in this little book, where I have set +forth in particular the dangers to which one would be liable. The subjects +of your Majesty, whom you may be pleased hereafter to employ for the +preservation of what has been discovered, will be able to avoid those +dangers through the knowledge afforded by the maps contained in this +treatise, which will serve as an example in your kingdom for increasing the +glory of your Majesty, the welfare of your subjects, and for the honor of +the very humble service, for which, to the happy prolongation of your days, +is indebted, + +SIRE, + +Your most humble, most obedient, +and most faithful servant and subject, + +CHAMPLAIN_. + + + + +TO THE QUEEN REGENT, + +MOTHER OF THE KING. + +MADAME, + +Of all the most useful and excellent arts, that of navigation has always +seemed to me to occupy the first place. For the more hazardous it is, and +the more numerous the perils and losses by which it is attended, so much +the more is it esteemed and exalted above all others, being wholly unsuited +to the timid and irresolute. By this art we obtain knowledge of different +countries, regions, and realms. By it we attract and bring to our own land +all kinds of riches, by it the idolatry of paganism is overthrown and +Christianity proclaimed throughout all the regions of the earth. This is +the art which from my early age has won my love, and induced me to expose +myself almost all my life to the impetuous waves of the ocean, and led me +to explore the coasts of a part of America, especially of New France, where +I have always desired to see the Lily flourish, and also the only religion, +catholic, apostolic, and Roman. This I trust now to accomplish with the +help of God, assisted by the favor of your Majesty, whom I most humbly +entreat to continue to sustain us, in order that all may succeed to the +honor of God, the welfare of France, and the splendor of your reign, for +the grandeur and prosperity of which I will pray God to attend you always +with a thousand blessings, and will remain, + +MADAME, + Your most humble, most obedient, + and most faithful servant and subject, + CHAMPLAIN. + + + + +EXTRACT FROM THE LICENSE. + +By letters patent of the KING, given at Paris the ninth of January, 1613, +and in the third year of our reign, by the King in his Council, PERREAU, +and sealed with the simple yellow seal, it is permitted to JEAN BERJON, +printer and bookseller in this city of Paris, to print, or have printed by +whomsoever it may seem good to him, a book entitled _The Voyages of Samuel +de Champlain of Saintonge, Captain in ordinary for the King in the Marine, +&c._, for the time and limit of six entire consecutive years, from the day +when this book shall have been printed up to the said time of six years. By +the same letters, in like manner all printers, merchant booksellers, and +any others whatever, are forbidden to print or have printed, to sell or +distribute said book during the aforesaid time, without the special consent +of said BERJON, or of him to whom he shall give permission, on pain of +confiscation of so many of said books as shall be found, and a +discretionary fine, as is more fully set forth in the aforesaid letters. + + + + +VOYAGES +OF +SIEUR DE CHAMPLAIN. + + +VOYAGE IN THE YEAR 1604. + +CHAPTER I. + +THE BENEFITS OF COMMERCE HAVE INDUCED SEVERAL PRINCES TO SEEK AN EASIER +ROUTE FOR TRAFFIC WITH THE PEOPLE OF THE EAST.--SEVERAL UNSUCCESSFUL +VOYAGES.--DETERMINATION OF THE FRENCH FOR THIS PURPOSE.--UNDERTAKING OF +SIEUR DE MONTS: HIS COMMISSION AND ITS REVOCATION.--NEW COMMISSION TO SIEUR +DE MONTS TO ENABLE HIM TO CONTINUE HIS UNDERTAKING. + +The inclinations of men differ according to their varied dispositions; and +each one in his calling has his particular end in view. Some aim at gain, +some at glory, some at the public weal. The greater number are engaged in +trade, and especially that which is transacted on the sea. Hence arise the +principal support of the people, the opulence and honor of states. This is +what raised ancient Rome to the sovereignty and mastery over the entire +world, and the Venetians to a grandeur equal to that of powerful kings. It +has in all times caused maritime towns to abound in riches, among which +Alexandria and Tyre are distinguished, and numerous others, which fill up +the regions of the interior with the objects of beauty and rarity obtained +from foreign nations. For this reason, many princes have striven to find a +northerly route to China, in order to facilitate commerce with the +Orientals, in the belief that this route would be shorter and less +dangerous. + +In the year 1496, the king of England commissioned John Cabot and his son +Sebastian to engage in this search. [1] About the same time, Don Emanuel, +king of Portugal, despatched on the same errand Gaspar Cortereal, who +returned without attaining his object. Resuming his journeys the year +after, he died in the undertaking; as did also his brother Michel, who was +prosecuting it perseveringly. [2] In the years 1534 and 1535, Jacques +Cartier received a like commission from King Francis I., but was arrested +in his course. [3] Six years after, Sieur de Roberval, having renewed it, +sent Jean Alfonse of Saintonge farther northward along the coast of +Labrador; [4] but he returned as wise as the others. In the years 1576, +1577, and 1578, Sir Martin Frobisher, an Englishman, made three voyages +along the northern coasts. Seven years later, Humphrey Gilbert, also an +Englishman, set out with five ships, but suffered shipwreck on Sable +Island, where three of his vessels were lost. In the same and two following +years, John Davis, an Englishman, made three voyages for the same object; +penetrating to the 72d degree, as far as a strait which is called at the +present day by his name. After him, Captain Georges made also a voyage in +1590, but in consequence of the ice was compelled to return without having +made any discovery. [5] The Hollanders, on their part, had no more precise +knowledge in the direction of Nova Zembla. + +So many voyages and discoveries without result, and attended with so much +hardship and expense, have caused us French in late years to attempt a +permanent settlement in those lands which we call New France, [6] in the +hope of thus realizing more easily this object; since the voyage in search +of the desired passage commences on the other side of the ocean, and is +made along the coast of this region. [7] These considerations had induced +the Marquis de la Roche, in 1598, to take a commission from the king for +making a settlement in the above region. With this object, he landed men +and supplies on Sable Island; [8] but, as the conditions which had been +accorded to him by his Majesty were not fulfilled, he was obliged to +abandon his undertaking, and leave his men there. A year after, Captain +Chauvin accepted another commission to transport Settlers to the same +region; [9] but, as this was shortly after revoked, he prosecuted the +matter no farther. + +After the above, [10] notwithstanding all these accidents and +disappointments, Sieur de Monts desired to attempt what had been given up +in despair, and requested a commission for this purpose of his Majesty, +being satisfied that the previous enterprises had failed because the +undertakers of them had not received assistance, who had not succeeded, in +one nor even two years' time, in making the acquaintance of the regions and +people there, nor in finding harbors adapted for a settlement. He proposed +to his Majesty a means for covering these expenses, without drawing any +thing from the royal revenues; viz., by granting to him the monopoly of the +fur-trade in this land. This having been granted to him, he made great and +excessive outlays, and carried out with him a large number of men of +various vocations. Upon his arrival, he caused the necessary number of +habitations for his followers to be constructed. This expenditure he +continued for three consecutive years, after which, in consequence of the +jealousy and annoyance of certain Basque merchants, together with some from +Brittany, the monopoly which had been granted to him was revoked by the +Council to the great injury and loss of Sieur de Monts, who, in consequence +of this revocation, was compelled to abandon his entire undertaking, +sacrificing his labors and the outfit for his settlement. + +But since a report had been made to the king on the fertility of the soil +by him, and by me on the feasibility of discovering the passage to China, +[11] without the inconveniences of the ice of the north or the heats of the +torrid zone, through which our sailors pass twice in going and twice in +returning, with inconceivable hardships and risks, his Majesty directed +Sieur de Monts to make a new outfit, and send men to continue what he had +commenced. This he did. And, in view of the uncertainty of his commission, +[12] he chose a new spot for his settlement, in order to deprive jealous +persons of any such distrust as they had previously conceived. He was also +influenced by the hope of greater advantages in case of settling in the +interior, where the people are civilized, and where it is easier to plant +the Christian faith and establish such order as is necessary for the +protection of a country, than along the sea-shore, where the savages +generally dwell. From this course, he believed the king would derive an +inestimable profit; for it is easy to suppose that Europeans will seek out +this advantage rather than those of a jealous and intractable disposition +to be found on the shores, and the barbarous tribes. [13] + +ENDNOTES: + +1. The first commission was granted by Henry VII. of England to John Cabot + and his three sons, Lewis, Sebastian, and Sancius, March 5, 1496.-- + _Rymer's Foedera_, Vol. XII. p. 595. The first voyage, however, was made + in 1497. The second commission was granted to John Cabot alone, in + 1498.--_Vide Hakluyt_, 1600, London, ed. 1810, Vol. III. pp. 25-31. + +2. Cortereal made two voyages under the patronage of Emmanuel, King of + Portugal, the first in 1500, the second in 1501. In the latter year, he + sailed with two ships from Lisbon, and explored six hundred miles or + more on our northern coast. The vessel in which he sailed was lost; and + he perished, together with fifty natives whom he had captured. The other + vessel returned, and reported the incidents of the expedition. The next + year, Michael Cortereal, the brother of Gaspar, obtained a commission, + and went in search of his brother; but he did not return, and no tidings + were ever heard of him. + +3. Jacques Cartier made three voyages in 1534, 1535, and 1540, + respectively, in which he effected very important discoveries; and + Charlevoix justly remarks that Cartier's Memoirs long served as a guide + to those who after him navigated the gulf and river of St. Lawrence. For + Cartier's commission, see _Hazard's State Papers_, Vol. I. p. 19. + +4. Roberval's voyage was made in 1542, and is reported by Jean Alfonse.-- + _Vide Hakluyt_, 1600, London, ed. 1810, Vol. III. p. 291. On an old map, + drawn about the middle of the sixteenth century, Roberval is represented + in a full-length portrait, clad in mail, with sword and spear, at the + head of a band of armed soldiers, penetrating into the wilds of Canada, + near the head-waters of the Saguenay. The name, "Monsr. de Roberual," is + inserted near his feet,--_Vide Monuments de la Geographie_, XIX., par + M. Jomard, Paris. + +5. For the narrative of the voyages of Frobisher, Gilbert, and Davis, _vide + Hakluyt_, Vol. III. Of the fleet of five vessels commanded by Sir + Humphrey Gilbert, in 1583, the Ralegh put back to England, on account of + sickness on board; the Golden Hinde returned safely to port; the + _Swallow_ was left at Newfoundland, to bring home the sick; the + _Delight_ was lost near Sable Island; and the _Squirrel_ went down on + its way to England, some days after leaving Sable Island. Thus two only + were lost, while a third was left. + + There must have been some error in regard to the voyage of Captain + Georges. There is no printed account of a voyage at that time by any one + of this name. There are two theories on which this statement may be + explained. There may have been a voyage by a Captain Georges, which, for + some unknown reason, was never reported; or, what is more likely, + Champlain may refer to the voyage of Captain George Weymouth, undertaken + in 1602 for the East Ind. Company, which was defeated by the icebergs + which he encountered, and the mutiny of his men. It was not uncommon to + omit part of a name at that period. Of Pont Grave, the last name is + frequently omitted by Champlain and by Lescarbot. The report of + Weymouth's voyage was not printed till after Champlain wrote; and he + might easily have mistaken the date. + +6. The name of New France, _Novus Francisca_, appears on a map in Ptolemy + published at Basle in 1530. + +7. The controlling object of the numerous voyages to the north-east coast + of America had hitherto been to discover a shorter course to India. In + this respect, as Champlain states above, they had all proved + failures. He here intimates that the settlements of the French on this + coast were intended to facilitate this design. It is obvious that a + colonial establishment would offer great advantages as a base in + prosecuting searches for this desired passage to Cathay. + +8. For some account of this disastrous expedition, see _Memoir_, Vol. I. + +9. _Vide Memoir_, Vol. I. + +10. It will be observed that Champlain does not mention the expedition sent + out by Commander de Chastes, probably because its object was + exploration, and not actual settlement.--_Vide_ an account of De + Chastes in the _Memoir_, Vol. I. + +11. In Champlain's report of the voyage of 1603, after obtaining what + information he could from the natives relating to the St. Lawrence and + the chain of lakes, he says they informed him that the last lake in the + chain was salt, and he therefore believed it to be the South Sea. He + doubtless enlarged verbally before the king upon the feasibility of a + passage to China in this way. + +12. The commission here referred to was doubtless the one renewed to him in + 1608, after he had made his searches on the shores of New England and + Nova Scotia, and after the commission or charter of 1603 had been + revoked. + + Champlain is here stating the advantages of a settlement in the + interior, on the shores of the St. Lawrence, rather than on the + Atlantic coast. + +13. In this chapter, Champlain speaks of events stretching through several + years; but in the next he confines himself to the occurrences of 1603, + when De Monts obtained his charter. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +DESCRIPTION OF SABLE ISLAND; CAPE BRETON; LA HEVE; PORT AU MOUTON; PORT +CAPE NEGRE; SABLE BAY AND CAPE; CORMORANT ISLAND; CAPE FOURCHU; LONG +ISLAND; BAY OF SAINT MARY; PORT SAINT MARGARET; AND OF ALL NOTEWORTHY +OBJECTS ALONG THIS COAST. + +Sieur de Monts, by virtue of his commission [14] having published in all +the ports and harbors of this kingdom the prohibition against the violation +of the monopoly of the fur-trade accorded him by his Majesty, gathered +together about one hundred and twenty artisans, whom he embarked in two +vessels: one of a hundred and twenty tons, commanded by Sieur de Pont +Grave; [15] another, of a hundred and fifty tons, in which he embarked +himself, [16] together with several noblemen. + +We set out from Havre de Grace April 7th, 1604, and Pont Grave April 10th, +to rendezvous at Canseau, [17] twenty leagues from Cape Breton. [18] But +after we were in mid-ocean, Sieur de Monts changed his plan, and directed +his course towards Port Mouton, it being more southerly and also more +favorable for landing than Canseau. + +On May 1st, we sighted Sable Island, where we ran a risk of being lost in +consequence of the error of our pilots, who were deceived in their +calculation, which they made forty leagues ahead of where we were. + +This island is thirty leagues distant north and South from Cape Breton, and +in length is about fifteen leagues. It contains a small lake. The island is +very sandy, and there are no trees at all of considerable size, only copse +and herbage, which serve as pasturage for the bullocks and cows, which the +Portuguese carried there more than sixty years ago, and which were very +serviceable to the party of the Marquis de la Roche. The latter, during +their sojourn of several years there, captured a large number of very fine +black foxes, [19] whose skins they carefully preserved. There are many +sea-wolves [20] there, with the skins of which they clothed themselves +since they had exhausted their own stock of garments. By order of the +Parliamentary Court of Rouen, a vessel was sent there to recover them. [21] +The directors of the enterprise caught codfish near the island, the +neighborhood of which abounds in shoals. + +On the 8th of the same month, we sighted Cap de la Heve, [22] to the east +of which is a bay, containing several islands covered with fir-trees. On +the main land are oaks, elms, and birches. It joins the coast of La Cadie +at the latitude of 44 deg. 5', and at 16 deg. 15' of the deflection of the magnetic +needle, distant east-north-east eighty-five leagues from Cape Breton, of +which we shall speak hereafter. + +On the 12th of May, we entered another port, [23] five leagues +from Cap de la Heve, where we captured a vessel engaged +in the fur-trade in violation of the king's prohibition. The +master's name was Rossignol, whose name the port retained, +which is in latitude 44 deg. 15'. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +PORT DE LA HEVE. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. The place where vessels anchor. +_B_. A small river dry at low tide. +_C_. Places where the savages have their cabins.[Note: The letter C is + wanting, but the location of the cabins is obvious.] +_D_. Shoal at the entrance of the harbor. [Note: The letter D is also + wanting, but the figures sufficiently indicate the depth of the + water.] +_E_. A small island covered with wood. [Note: The letter E appears twice by + mistake.] +_F_. Cape de la Heve [Note: The letter F is likewise wanting. It has been + supposed to be represented by one of the E's on the small island, but + Cap de la Heve, to which it refers, was not on this island, but on the + main land. The F should have been, we think, on the west of the + harbor, where the elevation is indicated on the map. _Vide_ note 22.] + + * * * * * + +On the 13th of May, we arrived at a very fine harbor, where there are two +little streams, called Port au Mouton, [24] which is seven leagues distant +from that of Rossignol. The land is very stony, and covered with copse and +heath. There are a great many rabbits, and a quantity of game in +consequence of the ponds there. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +PORT DU ROSSIGNOL. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. A river extending twenty-five leagues inland. +_B_. The place where vessels anchor. +_C_. Place on the main land where the savages have their dwellings. +_D_. Roadstead where vessels anchor while waiting for the tide. +_E_. Place on the island where the savages have their cabins. +_F_. Channel dry at low tide. +_G_. Shore of the main land. The dotted places indicate the shoals. + +NOTE. It would seem as if in the title Rossynol, on the map, the two dots +on the _y_ instead of the _n_ were placed there by mistake. + + * * * * * + +As Soon as we had disembarked, each one commenced making huts after his +fashion, on a point at the entrance of the harbor near two fresh-water +ponds. Sieur de Monts at the Same time despatched a shallop, in which he +sent one of us, with some savages as guides as bearers of letters, along +the coast of La Cadie, to search for Pont Grave, who had a portion of the +necessary supplies for our winter sojourn. The latter was found at the Bay +of All-Isles, [25] very anxious about us (for he knew nothing of the change +of plan); and the letters were handed to him. As soon as be had read them, +he returned to his ship at Canseau, where he seized some Basque vessels +[26] engaged in the fur-trade, notwithstanding the prohibition of his +Majesty, and sent their masters to Sieur de Monts, who meanwhile charged me +to reconnoitre the coast and the harbors suitable for the secure reception +of our vessel. + +With the purpose of carrying out his wishes, I set out from Port Mouton on +the 19th of May, in a barque of eight tons, accompanied by Sieur Ralleau, +his secretary, and ten men. Advancing along the coast, we entered a harbor +very convenient for vessels, at the end of which is a small river, +extending very far into the main land. This I called the Port of Cape +Negro, [27] from a rock whose distant view resembles a negro, which rises +out of the water near a cape passed by us the same day, four leagues off +and ten from Port Mouton. This cape is very dangerous, on account of the +rocks running out into the sea. The shores which I saw, up to that point, +are very low, and covered with such wood as that seen at the Cap de la +Heve; and the islands are all filled with game. Going farther on, we passed +the night at Sable Bay, [28] where vessels can anchor without any danger. + +The next day we went to Cape Sable, [29] also very dangerous, in +consequence of certain rocks and reefs extending almost a league into the +sea. It is two leagues from Sable Bay, where we had spent the night before. +Thence we went to Cormorant Island, [30] a league distant, so called from +the infinite number of cormorants found there, of whose eggs we collected a +cask full. From this island, we sailed westerly about six leagues, crossing +a bay, which makes up to the north two or three leagues. Then we fell in +with several islands [31] distant two or three leagues from the main land; +and, as well as I could judge, some of them were two leagues in extent, +others three, and others were still smaller. Most of them are very +dangerous for large vessels to approach, on account of the tides and the +rocks on a level with the water. These islands are filled with pines, firs, +birches, and aspens. A little farther out, there are four more. In one, we +saw so great a quantity of birds, called penguins, [32] that we killed them +easily with sticks. On another, we found the shore completely covered with +sea-wolves, [33] of which we captured as many as we wished. At the two +others there is such an abundance of birds of different sorts that one +could not imagine it, if he had not seen them. There are cormorants, three +kinds of duck, geese, _marmettes?_, bustards, sea-parrots, snipe, vultures, +and other birds of prey; gulls, sea-larks of two or three kinds; herons, +large sea-gulls, curlews, sea-magpies, divers, ospreys, _appoils?_, ravens, +cranes, and other sorts which I am not acquainted with, and which also make +their nests here. [34] We named these Sea-Wolf Islands. They are in +latitude 43 deg. 30', distant from four to five leagues from the main land, or +Cape Sable. After spending pleasantly some time there in hunting (and not +without capturing much game), we set out and reached a cape, [35] which we +christened Port Fourchu from its being fork-shaped, distant from five to +six leagues from the Sea-Wolf Islands. This harbor is very convenient for +vessels at its entrance; but its remoter part is entirely dry at low tide, +except the channel of a little stream, completely bordered by meadows, +which make this spot very pleasant. There is good codfishing near the +harbor. Departing from there, we sailed north ten or twelve leagues without +finding any harbor for our vessels, but a number of very fine inlets or +shores, where the soil seems to be well adapted for cultivation. The woods +are exceedingly fine here, but there are few pines and firs. This coast is +clear, without islands, rocks, or shoals; so that, in our judgment, vessels +can securely go there. Being distant quarter of a league from the coast, we +went to an island called Long Island, [36] lying north-north-east and +south-south-west, which makes an opening into the great Baye Francoise, +[37] so named by Sieur de Monts. + +This island is six leagues long, and nearly a league broad in some places, +in others only quarter of a league. It is covered with an abundance of +wood, such as pines and birch. All the coast is bordered by very dangerous +rocks; and there is no place at all favorable for vessels, only little +inlets for shallops at the extremity of the island, and three or four small +rocky islands, where the savages capture many sea-wolves. There are strong +tides, especially at the little passage [38] of the island, which is very +dangerous for vessels running the risk of passing through it. + +From Long Island passage, we sailed north-east two leagues, when we found a +cove [39] where vessels can anchor in safety, and which is quarter of a +league or thereabouts in circuit. The bottom is all mire, and the +surrounding land is bordered by very high rocks. In this place there is a +very good silver mine, according to the report of the miner, Master Simon, +who accompanied me. Some leagues farther on there is a little stream called +river Boulay [40] where the tide rises half a league into the land, at the +mouth of which vessels of a hundred tons can easily ride at anchor. Quarter +of a league from here there is a good harbor for vessels, where we found an +iron mine, which our miner estimated would yield fifty per cent [41] +Advancing three leagues farther on to the northeast [42] we saw another +very good iron mine, near which is a river surrounded by beautiful and +attractive meadows. The neighboring soil is red as blood. Some leagues +farther on there is still another river, [43] dry at low tide, except in +its very small channel, and which extends near to Port Royal. At the +extremity of this bay is a channel, also dry at low tide [44] surrounding +which are a number of pastures and good pieces of land for cultivation, +where there are nevertheless great numbers of fine trees of all the kinds +previously mentioned. The distance from Long Island to the end of this bay +may be some six leagues. The entire coast of the mines is very high, +intersected by capes, which appear round, extending out a short distance. +On the other side of the bay, on the south-east, the land is low and good, +where there is a very good harbor, having a bank at its entrance over which +it is necessary to pass. On this bar there is a fathom and a half of water +at low tide; but after passing it you find three, with good bottom. Between +the two points of the harbor there is a pebbly islet, covered at full +tide. This place extends half a league inland. The tide falls here three +fathoms, and there are many shell-fish, such as muscles, cockles, and +sea-snails. The soil is as good as any that I have seen. I named this +harbor Saint Margaret. [45] This entire south-east coast is much lower than +that of the mines, which is only a league and a half from the coast of +Saint Margaret, being Separated by the breadth of the bay, [46] which is +three leagues at its entrance. I took the altitude at this place, and found +the latitude 45 deg. 30', and a little more,[47] the deflection of the magnetic +needle being 17 deg. 16'. + +After having explored as particularly as I could the coasts, ports, and +harbors, I returned, without advancing any farther, to Long Island passage, +whence I went back outside of all the islands in order to observe whether +there was any danger at all on the water side. But we found none whatever, +except there were some rocks about half a league from Sea-Wolf Islands, +which, however, can be easily avoided, since the sea breaks over them. +Continuing our voyage, we were overtaken by a violent wind, which obliged +us to run our barque ashore, where we were in danger of losing her, which +would have caused us extreme perplexity. The tempest having ceased, we +resumed the sea, and the next day reached Port Mouton, where Sieur de Monts +was awaiting us from day to day, thinking only of our long stay, [48] and +whether some accident had not befallen us. I made a report to him of our +voyage, and where our vessels might go in Safety. Meanwhile, I observed +very particularly that place which is in latitude 44 deg.. + +The next day Sieur de Monts gave orders to weigh anchor and proceed to the +Bay of Saint Mary, [49] a place which we had found to be Suitable for our +vessel to remain in, until we should be able to find one more advantageous. +Coasting along, we passed near Cape Sable and the Sea-Wolf Islands, whither +Sieur de Monts decided to go in a shallop, and see some islands of which we +had made a report to him, as also of the countless number of birds found +there. Accordingly, he set out, accompanied by Sieur de Poutrincourt, and +several other noblemen, with the intention of going to Penguin Island, +where we had previously killed with sticks a large number of these +birds. Being somewhat distant from our ship, it was beyond our power to +reach it, and still less to reach our vessel; for the tide was so strong +that we were compelled to put in at a little island to pass the night, +where there was much game. I killed there some river-birds, which were very +acceptable to us, especially as we had taken only a few biscuit, expecting +to return the same day. The next day we reached Cape Fourchu, distant half +a league from there. Coasting along, we found our vessel in the Bay of +Saint Mary. Our company were very anxious about us for two days, fearing +lest some misfortune had befallen us; but, when they saw us all safe, they +were much rejoiced. + +Two or three days after our arrival, one of our priests, named Mesire Aubry +[50] from Paris, got lost so completely in the woods while going after his +sword, which he had forgotten, that he could not find the vessel. And he +was thus seventeen days without any thing to subsist upon except some sour +and bitter plants like the sorrel, and some small fruit of little substance +large as currants, which creep upon the ground. [51] Being at his wits' +end, without hope of ever seeing us again, weak and feeble, he found +himself on the shore of Baye Francoise, thus named by Sieur de Monts, near +Long Island, [52] where his strength gave out, when one of our shallops out +fishing discovered him. Not being able to shout to them, he made a sign +with a pole, on the end of which he had put his hat, that they should go +and get him. This they did at once, and brought him off. Sieur de Monts had +caused a search to be made not only by his own men, but also by the savages +of those parts, who scoured all the woods, but brought back no intelligence +of him. Believing him to be dead, they all saw him coming back in the +shallop to their great delight. A long time was needed to restore him to +his usual strength. + +ENDNOTES: + +14. _Vide Commission du Roy au Sieur de Monts, pour l'habitation es terres + de la Cadie, Canada, et autres endroits en la Nouvelle-France_, + Histoire de a Nouvelle-France, par Marc Lescarbot, Paris, 1612, Qvat. + Liv. p. 431. This charter may also be found in English in a _Collection + of Voyages and Travels compiled from the Library of the Earl of Oxford, + by Thomas Osborne_, London, 1745, Vol. II. pp. 796-798; also in + _Murdoch's History of Nova Scotia_, Halifax, 1865, Vol. I. pp. 21-24. + +15. The second officer, or pilot, was, according to Lescarbot, Captain + Morel, of Honfleur. + +16. This was under the direction of De Monts himself; and Captain Timothee, + of Havre de Grace, was pilot, or the second officer. + +17. Lescarbot writes this name Campseau; Champlain's orthography is + Canceau; the English often write Canso, but more correctly Canseau. It + has been derived from _Cansoke_, an Indian word, meaning _facing the + frowning cliffs_. + +18. The Cape and Island of Cape Breton appear to have taken their name from + the fisherman of Brittany, who frequented that region as early as 1504 + --_Vide Champlain's Voyages_, Paris 1632, p. 9. + + Thevet sailed along the coast in 1556, and is quoted by Laverdiere, as + follows: "In this land there is a province called Compestre de Berge, + extending towards the south-east: in the eastern part of the same is + the cape or promontory of Lorraine, called so by us; others have given + it the came of the Cape of the Bretons, since the Bretons, the + Bisayans, and Normans repair thither, and coast along on their way to + Newfoundland to fish for codfish." + + An inscription, "_tera que soy descuberta per pertonnes_," on an Old + Portuguese map of 1520, declares it to be a country discovered by the + Bretons. It is undoubtedly the oldest French name on any part of North + America. On Gastaldo's map in Mattiolo's Italian translation of + Ptolemy, 1548, the name of Breton is applied both to Nova Scotia and to + the Island of Cape Breton. + +19. Winthrop says that Mr. John Rose, who was cast away on Sable Island + about 1633, "saw about eight hundred cattle, small and great, all red, + and the largest he ever saw: and many foxes, wherof some perfect + black."--_Whinthrop's Hist. New Eng._, Boston, 1853, Vol. I. p. 193. + + Champlain doubtless obtained his information in regard to the cattle + left upon Sable Island by the Portuguese from the from the report of + Edward Haies on the voyage of Sir Humphrey Gilbert in 1583: + + "Sablon lieth to the seaward of Cape Briton about twenty-five leagues, + whither we were determined to goe vpon intelligence we had of a + Portugal (during our abode in S. Johns) who was himselfe present, when + the Portugals (aboue thirty yeeres past) did put in the same Island + both Neat and Swine to breede, which were since exceedingly multiplied. + This seemed vnto vs very happy tidings, to haue in an Island lying so + neere vnto the maine, which we intended to plant vpon. Such store of + cattell, whereby we might at all times conueniently be relieued of + victuall, and serued of store for breed."--_Edward Haies in Hakluyt's + Voyages_, London, ed. 1810. Vol. III. p. 197. + +20. "Loups marins," seals. + +21. "The forty poor wretches whom he left on Sable Island found on the + seashore some wrecks of vessels, out of which they built barracks to + shield themselves from the severity of the weather. They were the + remains of Spanish vessels, which had sailed to settle Cape Breton. + From these same ships had come some sheep and cattle, which had + multiplied on Sable Island; and this was for some time a resource for + these poor exiles. Fish was their next food; and, when their clothes + were worn out, they made new ones of seal-skin. At last, after a lapse + of seven years, the king, having heard of their adventure, obliged + Chedotel, the pilot, to go for them; but he found only twelve, the rest + having died of their hardships. His majesty desired to see those, who + returned in the same guise as found by Chedotel, covered with + seal-skin, with their hair and beard of a length and disorder that made + them resemble the pretended river-gods, and so disfigured as to inspire + horror. The king gave them fifty crowns apiece, and sent them home + released from all process of law."--_Shea's Charlevoix_, New York, + 1866, Vol. I. p. 244. See also _Sir William Alexander and American + Colonization_, Prince Society, 1873, p. 174; _Murdoch's Nova Scotia_, + Vol. I. p. 11; _Hakluyt_, Vol. II. pp. 679. 697. + +22. This cape still bears the same name, and is the western point of the + bay at the mouth of a river, likewise of the same name, in the county + of Lunenberg, Nova Scotia. It is an abrupt cliff, rising up one hundred + and fifty feet above the level of the sea. It could therefore be seen + at a great distance, and appears to have been the first land sighted by + them on the coast of La Cadie. A little north of Havre de Grace, in + Normandy, the port from which De Monts and Champlain had sailed, is to + be seen the high, commanding, rocky bluff, known as _Cap de la Heve_. + The place which they first sighted, similar at least in some respects, + they evidently named after this bold and striking headland, which may, + perhaps, have been the last object which they saw on leaving the shores + of France. The word _Heve_ seems to have had a local meaning, as may be + inferred from the following excerpt: "A name, in Lower Normandy, for + cliffs hollowed out below, and where fishermen search for crabs."-- + _Littre_. The harbor delineated on Champlain's local map is now called + Palmerston Bay, and is at the mouth of Petit River. The latitude of + this harbor is about 44 deg. 15'. De Laet's description is fuller than that + of Champlain or Lescarbot.--_Vide Novus Orbis_, 1633, p. 51. + +23. Liverpool, which for a long time bore the name of Port Rossignol; the + lake at the head of the river, about ten miles long and two or three + wide, the largest in Nova Scotia, still bears that appellation. The + latitude is 44 deg. 2' 30". + +24. "Lequel ils appelerent _Le Port du Mouton_, a l'occasion d'un mouton + qui s'estant nove revint a bord, et fut mange de bonne guerre."-- + _Histoire de la Nouvelle-France_, par Marc Lescarbot, Paris, 1612, + Qvat. Liv. p. 449. It still bears the name of Port Mouton, and an + island in the bay is called Mouton Island. + +25. _Baye de Toutes-isles_. Lescarbot calls it "La Baye des Iles:" and + Charlevoix, "Baye de toutes les Isles." It was the bay, or rather the + waters, that stretch along the shores of Halifax County, between Owl's + Head and Liscomb River. + +26. The confiscated provisions taken in the vessels of the Basque + fur-traders and in that of Rossignol were, according to Lescarbot, + found very useful. De Monts had given timely notice of his monopoly; + and, whether it had reached them or not, they were doubtless wrong in + law. Although De Monts treated them with gentleness, nevertheless it is + not unlikely that a compromise would have been better policy than an + entire confiscation of their property, as these Basques afterwards, on + their return to France, gave him serious inconvenience. They were + instrumental mainly in wresting from him his charter of La Cadie. + +27. _Le Port du Cap Negre_. This port still bears the name of Negro + Harbor. It is situated at the mouth of the Clyde, the small river + referred to in the text. + +28. Near Cape Sable Island, at what is now known as Barrington Harbor. + +29. This is still called Cape Sable, and is the southern point of Sable + Island, or, more properly, the cluster of rock, and islets that + surround its southern extremity. + +30. _Isle aux Cormorans_. It is difficult to distinguish with certainty the + island here referred to, but it was probably Hope Island, as this lies + directly in their way in crossing the bay, six leagues wide, which is + now known as Townsend Bay. The bird here mentioned was the common + cormorant. _Graculus carbo_, of a glossy greenish-black color, back and + wings bronzy-gray; about three feet in length, and is common on our + northern Atlantic coast: eminently gregarious, particularly in the + breeding season, congregating in vast flocks. At the present time, it + breeds in great numbers in Labrador and Newfoundland, and in the winter + migrates as far south as the Middle States. They feed principally upon + fish, lay commonly two eggs, of a pale greenish color, overlaid with a + white chalky substance.--_Vide Cones's Key to Nor. Am. Birds_. Boston, + 1872. p. 302. + +31. A cluster of islands now known as the Tousquet or Tusket Islands. + Further on, Champlain says they named them _Isles aux loups marins_. + Sea-Wolf Islands. About five leagues south of them is an island now + called Seal Island. The four more which he saw a little further on were + probably in Townsend Bay. + +32. This is the Auk, family _Alcidae_, and must not be confounded with the + penguin of the southern hemisphere, although it is described by the + early navigators of the Northern Atlantic under that appellation. In + Anthony Parkhurst's letter to Hakluyt, 1578, he says: "These birds are + also called Penguins, and cannot flie, there is more meate in one of + these then in a goose: the Frenchmen that fish neere the grand baie, do + bring small store of flesh with them, but victuall themselves alwayes + with these birds."--_Hakluyt_, London, ed. 1810, Vol. III. p. 172. + Edward Haies, in his report of the voyage of Sir Humphrey Gilbert in + 1583, say's: "We had sight of an Island named Penguin, of a foule there + breeding in abundance, almost incredible, which cannot flie, their + wings not able to carry their body, being very large (not much lesse + then a goose), and exceeding fat: which the Frenchmen use to take + without difficulty upon that Island, and to barrell them up with salt." + _Idem_, p. 191. + + The Auk is confined to the northern hemisphere, where it represents the + penguins of the southern. Several species occur in the Northern + Atlantic in almost incredible numbers: they are all marine, feed on + fish and other animal substances exclusively, and lay from one to three + eggs on the bare rocks. Those seen by Champlain and other early + navigators were the Great Auk. _Alca impennis_, now nearly extinct. It + was formerly found on the coast of New England, as is proved not only + by the testimony of the primitive explorers, but by the remains found + in shell-heaps. The latest discovery was of one found dead near + St. Augustine, in Labrador, in 1870. A specimen of the Great Auk is + preserved in the Cambridge Museum.--_Vide Coues's Key to North Am. + Birds_, Boston, 1872. p. 338. + +33. The sea-wolf or _loup marin_ of Champlain is the marine mammiferous + quadruped of the family Phocidae, known as the seal. Sea-wolf was a + name applied to it by the early navigators.--_Vide Purchas's Pilgrims_, + London, 1625. Vol. IV. p. 1385. Those here mentioned were the common + seal, _Phoca vitulina_, which are still found on the coasts of Nova + Scotia, vulgarly known as the harbor seal. They are thinly distributed + as far south as Long Island Sound, but are found in great numbers in + the waters of Labrador and Newfoundland, where they are taken for the + oil obtained from them, and for the skins, which are used for various + purposes in the arts. + +34. The names given to these birds were such, doubtless, as were known to + belong to birds similar in color, size, and figure in Europe. Some of + them were probably misapplied. The name alone is not sufficient for + identification. + +35. This cape, near the entrance to Yarmouth, still bears the same name, + from _fourchu_, forked. On a map of 1755, it is called Forked Cape, and + near it is Fork Ledge and Forked Harbor.--_Memorials of English and + French Commissaries_, London, 1755. + +36. It still retains the name given to it by Champlain. It forms a part of + the western limit of St. Mary's Bay, and a line drawn from it to the + St. Croix, cutting the Grand Manan, would mark the entrance of the Bay + of Fundy. + +37. The Bay of Fundy was thus first named "Baye Francoise" by De Monts, and + continued to be so called, as will appear by reference to the early + maps, as that of De Laet, 1633; Charlevoix, 1744; Rouge, 1778. It first + appears distinctly on the carte of Diego Homem of 1558, but without + name. On Cabot's Mappe-Monde, in "Monuments de la Geographie," we find + _rio fondo_, which may represent the Bay of Fundy, and may have + suggested the name adopted by the English, which it still retains. Sir + William Alexander's map, 1624, has Argal's Bay; Moll's map, 1712, has + Fundi Bay; that of the English and French Commissaries, 1755, has Bay + of Fundy, or Argal. + +38. This strait, known by the name Petit Passage, separates Long Island + from Digby Neck. + +39. A place called Little River, on Digby Neck. + +40. Now known as Sandy Cove. + +41. Lescarbot says of this iron mine, and of the silver mine above, that + they were proved not to be abundant. + +42. This was probably near Rossway. + +43. This was clearly Smith Creek or Smelt River, which rises near Annapolis + Basin, or the Port Royal Basin of the French. + +44. He here doubtless refers to North Creek, at the north-eastern extremity + of St. Mary's Bay. + +45. Now Weymouth Harbor, on the south-eastern shore of St. Mary's Bay, at + the mouth of Sissibou River, and directly opposite Sandy Cove, near the + iron mine mentioned above. + +46. The distance across the bay at this point, as here stated, is nearly + accurate. + +47. This is clearly a mistake; the true latitude at the Petit Passage is + 44 deg. 23'. It may here be remarked that Champlain's latitudes are very + inaccurate, often varying more than half a degree; doubtless owing to + the imperfection of the instruments which were employed in taking them. + +48. They had been occupied in this exploration about three weeks, Lescarbot + says a month, but this is an overstatement. By a careful examination of + the text, it will appear that they departed from Port Mouton on the + 19th of May, and that several days after their return, not less than + nine, they were again in St. Mary's Bay, on the 16th of June. They had + been absent, therefore, about twenty-one days. The latitude of Port + Mouton, stated a little below to be 44 deg., is in fact 43 deg. 57'. + +49. This bay, still retaining its ancient appellation, was so named by + Champlain on his first visit. "Ceste baye fut nommee la baye Saincte + Marie."--_Champlain's Voyages_, 1632, Quebec ed., Vol. V. p. 716. + +50. Nicholas Aubry, a young Parisian of good family, "vn certain homme + d'Eglise," as Lescarbot says, probably not long in holy orders, had + undertaken this voyage with De Monts to gratify his desire to see the + New World, though quite against the wishes of his friends, who had sent + in vain to Honfleur to prevent his embarkation. After the search made + by De Monts, with the sounding of trumpets and the discharge of cannon, + they left St. Mary's Bay, having given up all expectation of his + recovery. Some two weeks afterward, an expedition was Sent out to + St. Mary's Bay, conducted by De Champdore, an experienced pilot, with a + mineralogist, to search for silver and iron ore. While Some of the + party were on a fishing excursion, they rescued him, as stated in the + text. The safe return of the young and too venturesome ecclesiastic + gave great relief to De Monts, as Lescarbot says a Protestant was + charged to have killed him, because they quarrelled sometimes about + their religion.--_Vide Histoire de Nouvelle-France_, par Mare + Lescarbot, Paris, 1612, Qvat. Liv. p. 453. + +51. The partridge-berry, Mitchella, a trailing evergreen, bearing scarlet + berries, edible but nearly tasteless, which remain through the winter. + It is peculiar to America, and this is probably the first time it was + noticed by any historical writer. + +52. He was on the western side of Digby Neck, at its southern extremity, + near the Petit Passage on the shore of the Bay of Fundy. + + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +DESCRIPTION OF PORT ROYAL AND THE PECULIARITIES OF THE SAME.--ISLE HAUTE.-- +PORT OF MINES.--BAYE FRANCOISE.-THE RIVER ST. JOHN, AND WHAT WE OBSERVED +BETWEEN THE PORT OF MINES AND THE SAME.--THE ISLAND CALLED BY THE SAVAGES +MANTHANE.--THE RIVER OF THE ETECHEMINS, AND SEVERAL FINE ISLANDS THERE.-- +ST. CROIX ISLAND, AND OTHER NOTEWORTHY OBJECTS ON THIS COAST. + +Some days after, Sieur de Monts decided to go and examine the coasts of +Baye Francoise. For this purpose, he set out from the vessel on the 16th of +May,[53] and we went through the strait of Long Island.[54] Not having +found in St. Mary's Bay any place in which to fortify ourselves except at +the cost of much time, we accordingly resolved to see whether there might +not be a more favorable one in the other bay. Heading north-east six +leagues, there is a cove where vessels can anchor in four, five, six, and +seven fathoms of water. The bottom is sandy. This place is only a kind of +roadstead.[55] Continuing two leagues farther on in the same direction, we +entered one of the finest harbors I had seen along all these coasts, in +which two thousand vessels might lie in security. The entrance is eight +hundred paces broad; then you enter a harbor two leagues long and one +broad, which I have named Port Royal.[56] Three rivers empty into it, one +of which is very large, extending eastward, and called Riviere de +l'Equille,[57] from a little fish of the size of an _esplan?_, which is +caught there in large numbers, as is also the herring, and several other +kinds of fish found in abundance in their season. This river is nearly a +quarter of a league broad at its entrance, where there is an island [58] +perhaps half a league in circuit, and covered with wood like all the rest +of the country, as pines, firs, spruces, birches, aspens, and some oaks, +although the latter are found in small numbers in comparison with the other +kinds. There are two entrances to the above river, one on the north, the +other on the south side of the island. That on the north is the better, and +vessels can there anchor under shelter of the island in five, six, seven, +eight, and nine fathoms. But it is necessary to be on one's guard against +some shallows near the island on the one side, and the main land on the +other, very dangerous, if one does not know the channel. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S DESCRIPTION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +PORT AU MOUTON. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. Place where vessels lie. +_B_. Place where we made our camp. +_C_. A pond. +_D_. An island at the entrance to the harbor, covered with wood. +_E_. A river very shallow. +_F_. A pond. +_G_. A very large brook coming from the pond F. +_H_. Six little islands in the harbor. +_L_. Country, containing only copse and heath of very small size. +_M_. Sea-shore. + +NOTE.--The wanting letter L should probably be placed where the trees are +represented as very small, between the letters B and the island F. + + * * * * * + +We ascended the river some fourteen or fifteen leagues, where the tide +rises, and it is not navigable much farther. It has there a breadth of +sixty paces, and about a fathom and a half of water. The country bordering +the river is filled with numerous oaks, ashes, and other trees. Between the +mouth of the river and the point to which we ascended there are many +meadows, which are flooded at the spring tides, many little streams +traversing them from one side to the other, through which shallops and +boats can go at full tide. This place was the most favorable and agreeable +for a settlement that we had seen. There is another island [59] within the +port, distant nearly two leagues from the former. At this point is another +little stream, extending a considerable distance inland, which we named +Riviere St. Antoine. [60] Its mouth is distant from the end of the Bay of +St. Mary some four leagues through the woods. The remaining river is only a +small stream filled with rocks, which cannot be ascended at all on account +of the small amount of water, and which has been named Rocky Brook. [61] +This place is in latitude [62] 45 deg.; and 17 deg. 8' of the deflection of the +magnetic needle. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S DESCRIPTION OF THE MAP + +PORT ROYAL + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. Our habitation. [Note: On the present site of Lower Granville.] + +_B_. Garden of Sieur de Champlain. +_C_. Road through the woods that Sieur de Poutrincourt had made. +_D_. Island at the mouth of Equille River. +_E_. Entrance to Port Royal, +_F_. Shoals, dry at low tide. +_G_. River St. Antoine. [Note: The stream west of river St. Antoine is the + Jogging River.] +_H_. Place under cultivation for sowing wheat. [Note: The site of the + present town of Annapolis.] +_I_. Mill that Sieur de Poutrincourt had made. +_L_. Meadows overflowed at highest tides. +_M_. Equille River. +_N_. Seacoast of Port Royal. +_O_. Ranges of mountains. +_P_. Island near the river St. Antoine. +_Q_. Rocky Brook. [Footnote: Now called Deep Brook.] +_R_. Another brook. [Note: Morris River.] +_S_. Mill River. [Note: Allen River.] +_T_. Small lake. +_V_. Place where the savages catch herring in the season. +_X_. Trout brook. [Note: Trout Brook is now called Shaefer's Brook, and the + first on the west is Thorne's, and the second Scofield's Brook.] +_Y_. A lane that Sieur de Champlain had made. + + * * * * * + +After having explored this harbor, we set out to advance farther on in Baye +Francoise, and see whether we could not find the copper mine, [63] which +had been discovered the year before. Heading north-east, and sailing eight +or ten leagues along the coast of Port Royal,[64] we crossed a part of the +bay Some five or six leagues in extent, when we arrived at a place which we +called the Cape of Two Bays;[65] and we passed by an island a league +distant therefrom, a league also in circuit, rising up forty or forty-five +fathoms. [66] It is wholly surrounded by great rocks, except in one place +which is sloping, at the foot of which slope there is a pond of salt water, +coming from under a pebbly point, having the form of a spur. The surface of +the island is flat, covered with trees, and containing a fine spring of +water. In this place is a copper mine. Thence we proceeded to a harbor a +league and a half distant, where we supposed the copper mine was, which a +certain Prevert of St. Malo had discovered by aid of the savages of the +country. This port is in latitude 45 deg. 40', and is dry at low tide. [67] In +order to enter it, it is necessary to place beacons, and mark out a +sand-bank at the entrance, which borders a channel that extends along the +main land. Then you enter a bay nearly a league in length, and half a +league in breadth. In some places, the bottom is oozy and sandy, where +vessels may get aground. The sea falls and rises there to the extent of +four or five fathoms. We landed to see whether we could find the mines +which Prevert had reported to us. Having gone about a quarter of a league +along certain mountains, we found none, nor did we recognize any +resemblance to the description of the harbor he had given us. Accordingly, +he had not himself been there, but probably two or three of his men had +been there, guided by some savages, partly by land and partly by little +streams, while he awaited them in his shallop at the mouth of a little +river in the Bay of St. Lawrence.[68] These men, upon their return, +brought him several small pieces of copper, which he showed us when he +returned from his voyage. Nevertheless, we found in this harbor two mines +of what seemed to be copper according to the report of our miner, who +considered it very good, although it was not native copper. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S DESCRIPTION OF THE MAP. + +PORT DES MINES. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. A place where vessels are liable to run aground. +_B_. A Small river. +_C_. A tongue of land composed of Sand. +_D_. A point composed of large pebbles, which is like a mole. +_E_. Location of a copper mine, which is covered by the tide twice a day. +_F_. An island to the rear of the Cape of Mines. [Note: Now called + Spencer's Island. Champlain probably obtained his knowledge of this + island at a subsequent visit. There is a creek extending from near + Spencer's Island between the rocky elevations to Advocate's Harbor, or + nearly so, which Champlain does not appear to have seen, or at least + he does not represent it on his map. This point, thus made an island + by the creek, has an elevation of five hundred feet, at the base of + which was the copper mine which they discovered.--_Vide_ note 67.] +_G_. Roadstead where vessels anchor while waiting for the tide. +_H_. Isle Haute, which is a league and a half from Port of Mines. +_I_. Channel. +_L_. Little River. +_M_. Range of mountains along the coast of the Cape of Mines. + + * * * * * + +The head [69] of the Baye Francoise, which we crossed, is fifteen leagues +inland. All the land which we have seen in coasting along from the little +passage of Long Island is rocky, and there is no place except Port Royal +where vessels can lie in Safety. The land is covered with pines and +birches, and, in my opinion, is not very good. + +On the 20th of May,[70] we set out from the Port of Mines to seek a place +adapted for a permanent stay, in order to lose no time, purposing +afterwards to return, and see if we could discover the mine of pure copper +which Prevert's men had found by aid of the savages. We sailed west two +leagues as far as the cape of the two bays, then north five or six leagues; +and we crossed the other bay,[71] where we thought the copper mine was, of +which we have already spoken: inasmuch as there are there two rivers, [72] +the one coming from the direction of Cape Breton, and the other from Gaspe +or Tregatte, near the great river St. Lawrence. Sailing west some six +leagues, we arrived at a little river,[73] at the mouth of which is rather +a low cape, extending out into the sea; and a short distance inland there +is a mountain,[74] having the shape of a Cardinal's hat. In this place we +found an iron mine. There is anchorage here only for shallops. Four leagues +west south-west is a rocky point [75] extending out a short distance into +the water, where there are strong tides which are very dangerous. Near the +point we saw a cove about half a league in extent, in which we found +another iron mine, also very good. Four leagues farther on is a fine bay +running up into the main land;[76] at the extremity of which there are +three islands and a rock; two of which are a league from the cape towards +the west, and the other is at the mouth of the largest and deepest river we +had yet seen, which we named the river St. John, because it was on this +saint's day that we arrived there.[77] By the savages it is called +Ouygoudy. This river is dangerous, if one does not observe carefully +certain points and rocks on the two sides. It is narrow at its entrance, +and then becomes broader. A certain point being passed, it becomes narrower +again, and forms a kind of fall between two large cliffs, where the water +runs so rapidly that a piece of wood thrown in is drawn under and not seen +again. But by waiting till high tide you can pass this fall very easily. +[78] Then it expands again to the extent of about a league in some places, +where there are three islands. We did not explore it farther up.[79] But +Ralleau, secretary of Sieur de Monts, went there some time after to see a +savage named Secondon, chief of this river, who reported that it was +beautiful, large, and extensive, with many meadows and fine trees, as oaks, +beeches, walnut-trees, and also wild grapevines. The inhabitants of the +country go by this river to Tadoussac, on the great river St. Lawrence, +making but a short portage on the journey. From the river St. John to +Tadoussac is sixty-five leagues.[80] At its mouth, which is in latitude +45 deg. 40', there is an iron mine.[81] + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S DESCRIPTION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +RIVIERE ST. JEHAN. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. Three islands above the falls. [Note: The islands are not close + together as here represented. One is very near the main land on one + shore, and two on the other.] +_B_. Mountains rising up from the main land, two leagues south of the + river. +_C_. The fall in the river. +_D_. Shoals where vessels, when the tide is out, are liable to run aground. +_E_. Cabin where the savages fortify themselves. +_F_. A pebbly point where there is a cross. +_G_. An island at the entrance of the river. [Note: Partridge Island.] +_H_. A Small brook coming from a little pond. [Note: Mill Pond.] +_I_. Arm of the sea dry at low tide. [Note: Marsh Creek, very shallow but + not entirely dry at low tide.] +_L_. Two little rocky islets. [Note: These islets are not now represented + on the charts, and are probably rocks near the shore from which the + soil may have been washed away since 1604.] +_M_. A small pond. +_N_. Two brooks. +_O_. Very dangerous shoals along the coast, which are dry at low tide. +_P_. Way by which the savages carry their canoes in passing the falls. +_Q_. Place for anchoring where the river runs with full current. + + * * * * * + +From the river St. John we went to four islands, on one of which we landed, +and found great numbers of birds called magpies,[82] of which we captured +many small ones, which are as good as pigeons. Sieur de Poutrincourt came +near getting lost here, but he came back to our barque at last, when we had +already gone to search for him about the island, which is three leagues +distant from the main land. Farther west are other islands; among them one +six leagues in length, called by the savages Manthane,[83] south of which +there are among the islands several good harbors for vessels. From the +Magpie Islands we proceeded to a river on the main land called the river of +the Etechemins,[84] a tribe of savages so called in their country. We +passed by so many islands that we could not ascertain their number, which +were very fine. Some were two leagues in extent, others three, others more +or less. All of these islands are in a bay,[85] having, in my estimation, a +circuit of more than fifteen leagues. There are many good places capable of +containing any number of vessels, and abounding in fish in the season, such +as codfish, salmon, bass, herring, halibut, and other kinds in great +numbers. Sailing west-north-west three leagues through the islands, we +entered a river almost half a league in breadth at its mouth, sailing up +which a league or two we found two islands: one very small near the western +bank; and the other in the middle, having a circumference of perhaps eight +or nine hundred paces, with rocky sides three or four fathoms high all +around, except in one small place, where there is a sandy point and clayey +earth adapted for making brick and other useful articles. There is another +place affording a shelter for vessels from eighty to a hundred tons, but it +is dry at low tide. The island is covered with firs, birches, maples, and +oaks. It is by nature very well situated, except in one place, where for +about forty paces it is lower than elsewhere: this, however, is easily +fortified, the banks of the main land being distant on both sides some nine +hundred to a thousand paces. Vessels could pass up the river only at the +mercy of the cannon on this island, and we deemed the location the most +advantageous, not only on account of its situation and good foil, but also +on account of the intercourse which we proposed with the savages of these +coasts and of the interior, as we should be in the midst of them. We hoped +to pacify them in the course of time, and put an end to the wars which they +carry on with one another, so as to derive service from them in future, and +convert them to the Christian faith. This place was named by Sieur de Monts +the Island of St. Croix. [86] Farther on, there is a great bay, in which +are two islands, one high and the other flat; also three rivers, two of +moderate size, one extending towards the east, the other towards the north, +and the third of large size, towards the west. The latter is that of the +Etechemins, of which we spoke before. Two leagues up this there is a +waterfall, around which the savages carry their canoes some five hundred +paces by land, and then re-enter the river. Passing afterwards from the +river a short distance overland, one reaches the rivers Norumbegue and +St. John. But the falls are impassable for vessels, as there are only rocks +and but four or five feet of water.[87] In May and June, so great a number +of herring and bass are caught there that vessels could be loaded with +them. The soil is of the finest sort, and there are fifteen or twenty acres +of cleared land, where Sieur de Monts had some wheat sown, which flourished +finely. The savages come here sometimes five or six weeks during the +fishing Season. All the rest of the country consists of very dense forests. +If the land were cleared up, grain would flourish excellently. This place +is in latitude 45 deg. 20',[88] and 17 deg. 32' of the deflection of the magnetic +needle. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S DESCRIPTION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +ISLE DE SAINTE CROIX. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. A plan of our habitation. +_B_. Gardens. +_C_. Little islet serving as a platform for cannon. [Note: This refers to + the southern end of the island, which was probably separated at high + tide, where a cannon may be seen in position.] +_D_. Platform where cannon were placed. +_E_. The Cemetery. +_F_. The Chapel. +_G_. Rocky shoals about the Island Sainte Croix. +_H_. A little islet. [Note: Little De Monts's Island, Sometimes called + Little Dochet's Island.] +_I_. Place where Sieur de Monts had a water-mill commenced. +_L_. Place where we made our coal. +_M_. Gardens on the western shore. +_N_. Other gardens on the eastern shore. +_O_. Very large and high mountain on the main land. [Note: This "mountain" + is now called Chamcook Hill. Its height is 627 feet. At the northern + end of the island on the right there is an extensive sandy shoal, dry + at low tide, of a triangular shape as formerly, and has apparently + changed very little since the days of Champlain.] +_P_. River of the Etechemins flowing about the Island of St. Croix. + + * * * * * + +ENDNOTES: + +53. For May read June. It could not have been in May, since Champlain Set + out from Port Mouton on his exploring expedition on the 19th of May, + which must have been a month previous to this. + +54. What is now called the Petit Passage, the narrow strait between Long + Island and Digby Neck. + +55. Gulliver's Hole, about two leagues south-west of Digby Strait. + +56. Champlain here names the whole harbor or basin Port Royal, and not the + place of habitation afterward so called. The first settlement was on + the north side of the bay in the present hamlet of Lower Granville, not + as often alleged at Annapolis.--_Vide_ Champlain's engraving or map of + Port Royal. + +57. "Equille." A name, on the coasts between Caen and Havre, of the fish + called lancon at Granville and St. Malo, a kind of malacopterygious + fish living on sandy shores and hiding in the sand at low tide.-- + _Littre_. A species of sand eel. This stream is now known as the + Annapolis River. Lescarbot calls it Riviere du Dauphin. + +58. This island is situated at the point where the Annapolis River flows + into the bay, or about nine miles from Digby, straight. Champlain on + his map gives it no name, but Lescarbot calls it Biencourville. It is + now called Goat Island. + +59. Lescarbot calls it Claudiane. It is now known as Bear Island. It was + Sometimes called Ile d'Hebert, and likewise Imbert Island. Laverdiere + suggests that the present name is derived from the French pronunciation + of the last syllable of Imbert. + +60. At present known as Bear River; Lescarbot has it Hebert, and + Charlevoix, Imbert. + +61. On modern maps called Moose River, and sometimes Deep Brook. It is a + few miles east of Bear River. + +62. The latitude is here overstated: it should be 44 deg. 39' 30". + +63. On the preceding year, M. Prevert of St. Malo had made a glowing report + ostensively based on his own observations and information which he had + obtained from the Indians, in regard to certain mines alleged to exist + on the coast directly South of Northumberland Strait, and about the + head of the Bay of Fundy. It was this report of Prevert that induced + the present search. + +64. Along the Bay of Fundy nearly parallel to the basin of Port Royal would + better express the author's meaning. + +65. Cape Chignecto, the point where the Bay of Fundy is bifurcated; the + northern arm forming Chignecto Bay, and the southern, the Bay of Mines + or Minas Basin. + +66. Isle Haute, or high island.--_Vide Charlevoix's Map_. On Some maps this + name has been strangely perverted into Isle Holt, Isle Har, &c. Its + height is 320 feet. + +67. This was Advocate's Harbor. Its distance from Cape Chignecto is greater + than that stated in the text. Further on, Champlain calls it two + leagues, which is nearly correct. Its latitude is about 45 deg. 20'. By + comparing the Admiralty charts and Champlain's map of this harbor, it + will be seen that important changes have taken place since 1604. The + tongue of land extending in a south-easterly direction, covered with + trees and shrubbery, which Champlain calls a sand-bank, has entirely + disappeared. The ordinary tides rise here from thirty-three to + thirty-nine feet, and on a sandy shore could hardly fail to produce + important changes. + +68. According to the Abbe Laverdiere, the lower part of the Gulf was + sometimes called the Bay of St. Lawrence. + +69. They had just crossed the Bay of Mines. From the place where they + crossed it to its head it is not far from fifteen leagues, and it is + about the same distance to Port Royal, from which he may here estimate + the distance inland. + +70. Read June.--_Vide antea_, note 53. + +71. Chignecto Bay. Charlevoix has Chignitou _ou Beau Bassin_. On De Laet's + Map of 1633, on Jacob von Meur's of 1673, and Homenn's of 1729, we have + B. de Gennes. The Cape of Two Bays was Cape Chignecto. + +72. The rivers are the Cumberland Basin with its tributaries coming from + the east, and the Petitcoudiac (_petit_ and _coude_, little elbow, from + the angle formed by the river at Moncton, called the Bend), which flows + into Shepody Bay coming from the north or the direction of Gaspe. + Champlain mentions all these particulars, probably as answering to the + description given to them by M. Prevert of the place where copper mines + could be found. + +73. Quaco River, at the mouth of which the water is shallow: the low cape + extending out into the sea is that on which Quaco Light now stands, + which reaches out quarter of a mile, and is comparatively low. The + shore from Goose River, near where they made the coast, is very high, + measuring at different points 783, 735, 650, 400, 300, 500, and 380 + feet, while the "low cape" is only 250 feet, and near it on the west is + an elevation of 400 feet. It would be properly represented as "rather a + low cape" in contradistinction to the neighboring coast. Iron and + manganese are found here, and the latter has been mined to some extent, + but is now discontinued, as the expense is too great for the present + times. + +74. This mountain is an elevation, eight or ten miles inland from Quaco, + which may be seen by vessels coasting along from St. Martin's Head to + St. John: it is indicated on the charts as Mt. Theobald, and bears a + striking resemblance, as Champlain suggests, to the _chapeau de + Cardinal_. + +75. McCoy's Head, four leagues west of Quaco: the "cove" may be that on the + east into which Gardner's Creek flows, or that on the west at the mouth + of Emmerson's Creek. + +76. The Bay of St. John, which is four leagues south-west of McCoy's + Head. The islands mentioned are Partridge Island at the mouth of the + harbor, and two smaller ones farther west, one Meogenes, and the other + Shag rock or some unimportant islet in its vicinity. The rock mentioned + by Champlain is that on which Spit Beacon Light now stands. + +77. The festival of St. John the Baptist occurs on the 24th of June; and, + arriving on that day, they gave the name of St. John to the river, + which has been appropriately given also to the city at its mouth, now + the metropolis of the province of New Brunswick. + +78. Champlain was under a missapprehension about passing the fall at the + mouth of the St. John at high tide. It can in fact only be passed at + about half tide. The waters of the river at low tide are about twelve + feet higher than the waters of the sea. At high tide, the waters of the + sea are about five feet higher than the waters of the river. + Consequently, at low tide there is a fall outward, and at high tide + there is a fall inward, at neither of which times can the fall be + passed. The only time for passing the fall is when the waters of the + sea are on a level with the waters of the river. This occurs twice + every tide, at the level point at the flood and likewise at the ebb. + The period for passing lasts about fifteen or twenty minutes, and of + course occurs four times a day. Vessels assemble in considerable + numbers above and below to embrace the opportunity of passing at the + favoring moment. There are periods, however, when the river is swollen + by rains and melting snow, at which the tides do not rise as high as + the river, and consequently there is a constant fall outward, and + vessels cannot pass until the high water subsides. + +79. They ascended the river only a short distance into the large bay just + above the falls, near which are the three islands mentioned in the + text. + +80. The distance from the mouth of the river St. John to Tadoussac in a + direct line is about sixty-five leagues. But by the winding course of + the St. John it would be very much greater. + +81. Champlain's latitude is inexact. St. John's Harbor is 45 deg. 16'. + +82. _Margos_, magpies. The four islands which Champlain named the Magpies + are now called the Wolves, and are near the mouth of Passamaquoddy + Bay. Charlevoix has _Oiseaux_, the Birds. + +83. Manan. Known as the Grand Manan in contradistinction to the Petit + Manan, a small island still further west. It is about fourteen or + fifteen miles long, and about six in its greatest width. On the south + and eastern side are Long Island, Great Duck, Ross, Cheyne, and White + Head Islands, among which good harborage may be found. The name, as + appears in the text, is of Indian origin. It is Sometimes Spelled + Menarse, but that in the text prevails. + +84. The St. Croix River, sometimes called the Scoudic. + +85. Passsmaquoddy Bay. On Gastaldo's map of 1550 called Angoulesme. On + Rouge's "Atlas Ameriquain," 1778, it is written Passamacadie. + +86. The Holy Cross, _Saincte Croix_, This name was suggested by the + circumstance that, a few miles above the island, two streams flow into + the main channel of the river at the same place, one from the east and + the other from the west, while a bay makes up between them, presenting + the appearance of a cross. + + "Et d'autant qu'a deux lieues au dessus il y a des ruisseaux qui + viennent comme en croix de decharger dans ce large bras de mer, cette + ile de la retraite des Francois fut appelee SAINCTE CROIX."--_His. + Nouvelle France_ par Lescarbot, Paris. 1612, Qvat Liv. pp. 461, 462. + + It is now called De Monts's Island. It has been called Dochet's Island + and Neutral Island, but there is great appropriateness in calling it + after its first occupant and proprietor, and in honor of him it has + been so named with suitable ceremonies.--_Vide Godfrey's Centennial + Discourse_, Bangor, 1870, p. 20. The United States maintain a light + upon the island, which is seventy-one feet above the level of the sea, + and is visible twelve nautical miles. The island itself is moderately + high, and in the widest part is one hundred and eighty paces or about + five hundred and forty feet. The area is probably not more than six or + seven acres, although it has been estimated at twice that. It may have + been diminished in some slight degree since the time of Champlain by + the action of the waves, but probably very little. On the southern + extremity of the island where De Monts placed his cannon, about + twenty-five years ago a workman in excavating threw out five small + cannon-balls, one of which was obtained by Peter E. Vose, Esq., of + Dennysville, Me., who then resided near the island, and was conversant + with all the circumstances of the discovery. They were about a foot and + a half below the surface, and the workman was excavating for another + purpose, and knew nothing of the history of the island. At our + solicitation, the ball belonging to Mr. Vose has recently been + presented to the New England Historic Genealogical Society, of which he + is a member. It is iron, perfectly round, two and a quarter inches in + diameter, and weighs 22 oz. avoirdupois. There can be no reasonable + doubt that these balls are relics of the little French colony of 1604, + and probably the only memorial of the kind now in existence. + +87. The description in the text of the environs of the Island of St. Croix + is entirely accurate. Some distance above, and in view from the island, + is the fork, or Divide, as it is called. Here is a meeting of the + waters of Warwig Creek from the east, Oak Bay from the north, and the + river of the Etechemins, now called the St. Croix, from the west. These + are the three rivers mentioned by Champlain, Oak Bay being considered + as one of them, in which may be seen the two islands mentioned in the + text, one high and the other low. A little above Calais is the + waterfall, around which the Indians carried their bark canoes, when on + their journey up the river through the Scoudic lakes, from which by + land they reached the river St. John on the east, or, on the west, + passing through the Mettawamkeag, they reached the Norumbegue, or + Penobscot River. + +88. The latitude of the Island of St. Croix is 45 deg. 7' 43". + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +SIEUR DE MONTS, FINDING NO OTHER PLACE BETTER ADAPTED FOR A PERMANENT +SETTLEMENT THAN THE ISLAND OF ST. CROIX, FORTIFIES IT AND BUILDS +DWELLINGS.--RETURN OF THE VESSELS TO FRANCE, AND OF RALLEAU, SECRETARY OF +SIEUR DE MONTS, FOR THE SAKE OF ARRANGING SOME BUSINESS AFFAIRS. + + +Not finding any more suitable place than this island, we commenced making a +barricade on a little islet a short distance from the main island, which +served as a station for placing our cannon. All worked so energetically +that in a little while it was put in a state of defence, although the +mosquitoes (which are little flies) annoyed us excessively in our work. +For there were several of our men whose faces were so swollen by their +bites that they could scarcely see. The barricade being finished, Sieur de +Monts sent his barque to notify the rest of our party, who were with our +vessel in the bay of St. Mary, to come to St. Croix. This was promptly +done, and while awaiting them we spent our time very pleasantly. + +Some days after, our vessels having arrived and anchored, all disembarked. +Then, without losing time, Sieur de Monts proceeded to employ the workmen +in building houses for our abode, and allowed me to determine the +arrangement of our settlement. After Sieur de Monts had determined the +place for the storehouse, which is nine fathoms long, three wide, and +twelve feet high, he adopted the plan for his own house, which he had +promptly built by good workmen, and then assigned to each one his location. +Straightway, the men began to gather together by fives and sixes, each +according to his desire. Then all set to work to clear up the island, to go +to the woods, to make the frame work, to carry earth and other things +necessary for the buildings. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S DESCRIPTION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +HABITATION DE L'ISLE STE. CROIX. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. Dwelling of Sieur de Monts. +_B_. Public building where we spent our time when it rained. +_C_. The storehouse. +_D_. Dwelling of the guard. +_E_. The blacksmith shop. +_F_. Dwelling of the carpenters. +_G_. The well. +_H_. The oven where the bread was made. +_I_. Kitchen. +_L_. Gardens. +_M_. Other gardens. +_N_. Place in the centre where a tree stands. +_O_. Palisade. +_P_. Dwellings of the Sieurs d'Orville, Champlain, and Champdore. +_Q_. Dwelling of Sieur Boulay, and other artisans. +_R_. Dwelling where the Sieurs de Genestou, Sourin, and other artisans + lived. +_T_. Dwelling of the Sieurs de Beaumont, la Motte Bourioli, and Fougeray. +_V_. Dwelling of our curate. +_X_. Other gardens. +_Y_. The river surrounding the island. + + * * * * * + +While we were building our houses, Sieur de Monts despatched Captain +Fouques in the vessel of Rossignol, [89] to find Pont Grave at Canseau, in +order to obtain for our settlement what supplies remained. + +Some time after he had set out, there arrived a small barque of eight tons, +in which was Du Glas of Honfleur, pilot of Pont Grave's vessel, bringing +the Basque ship-masters, who had been captured by the above Pont Grave [90] +while engaged in the fur-trade, as we have stated. Sieur de Monts received +them civilly, and sent them back by the above Du Glas to Pont Grave, with +orders for him to take the vessels he had captured to Rochelle, in order +that justice might be done. Meanwhile, work on the houses went on +vigorously and without cessation; the carpenters engaged on the storehouse +and dwelling of Sieur de Monts, and the others each on his own house, as I +was on mine, which I built with the assistance of some servants belonging +to Sieur d'Orville and myself. It was forthwith completed, and Sieur de +Monts lodged in it until his own was finished. An oven was also made, and a +handmill for grinding our wheat, the working of which involved much trouble +and labor to the most of us, since it was a toilsome operation. Some +gardens were afterwards laid out, on the main land as well as on the +island. Here many kinds of seeds were planted, which flourished very well +on the main land, but not on the island, since there was only sand here, +and the whole were burned up when the sun shone, although special pains +were taken to water them. + +Some days after, Sieur de Monts determined to ascertain where the mine of +pure copper was which we had searched for so much. With this object in +view, he despatched me together with a savage named Messamoueet, who +asserted that he knew the place well. I set out in a small barque of five +or six tons, with nine sailors. Some eight leagues from the island, towards +the river St. John, we found a mine of copper which was not pure, yet good +according to the report of the miner, who said that it would yield eighteen +per cent. Farther on we found others inferior to this. When we reached the +place where we supposed that was which we were hunting for, the savage +could not find it, so that it was necessary to come back, leaving the +search for another time. + +Upon my return from this trip. Sieur de Monts resolved to send his vessels +back to France, and also Sieur de Poutrincourt, who had come only for his +pleasure, and to explore countries and places suitable for a colony, which +he desired to found; for which reason he asked Sieur de Monts for Port +Royal, which he gave him in accordance with the power and directions he had +received from the king. [91] He sent back also Ralleau, his secretary, to +arrange some matters concerning the voyage. They set out from the Island of +St. Croix the last day of August, 1604. + +ENDNOTES: + +89. This was the vessel taken from Captain Rossignol and confiscated.-- + _Vide antea_, pp. 10, 12; also note 26. + +90. Champlain and others often write only Pont for Pont Grave. Lescarbot + says Grave was his surname.--_Vide Histoire de la Nou. Fran_., Paris, + 1612, Qvat. Liv. p. 501. To prevent any confusion, we write it Pont + Grave in all cases. + +91. De Monts's charter provided for the distribution of lands to colonists. + This gift to De Poutrincourt was confirmed afterwards by the king. We + may here remark that there is the usual discrepancy in the orthography + of this name. Lescarbot, De Laet, and Charlevoix write Poutrincourt. In + his Latin epitaph, _vide Murdoch's Nova Scotia_, Vol. I. p. 59, it is + Potrincurtius, while Champlain has Poitrincourt. In Poutrincourt's + letter to the Roman Pontiff, Paul V., written in Latin, he says, _Ego + Johannes de Biencour, vulgo De Povtrincovr a vitae religionis amator et + attestor perpetuus_, etc. This must be conclusive for Poutrincourt as + the proper orthography.--_Vide His. Nov. Fra._, par Lescarbot, Paris, + 1612, p. 612. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +OF THE COAST, INHABITANTS, AND RIVER OF NORUMBEGUE, AND OF ALL THAT +OCCURRED DURING THE EXPLORATION OF THE LATTER. + + +After the departure of the vessels, Sieur de Monts, without losing time, +decided to send persons to make discoveries along the coast of Norumbegue; +and he intrusted me with this work, which I found very agreeable. + +In order to execute this commission, I set out from St. Croix on the 2d of +September with a patache of seventeen or eighteen tons, twelve sailors, and +two savages, to serve us as guides to the places with which they were +acquainted. The same day we found the vessels where Sieur de Poutrincourt +was, which were anchored at the mouth of the river St. Croix in consequence +of bad weather, which place we could not leave before the 5th of the month. +Having gone two or three leagues seaward, so dense a fog arose that we at +once lost sight of their vessels. Continuing our course along the coast, we +made the same day some twenty-five leagues, and passed by a large number of +islands, banks, reefs, and rocks, which in places extend more than four +leagues out to Sea. We called the islands the Ranges, most of which are +covered with pines, firs, and other trees of an inferior sort. Among these +islands are many fine harbors, but undesirable for a permanent settlement. +The same day we passed also near to an island about four or five leagues +long, in the neighborhood of which we just escaped being lost on a little +rock on a level with the water, which made an opening in our barque near +the keel. From this island to the main land on the north, the distance is +less than a hundred paces. It is very high, and notched in places, so that +there is the appearance to one at sea, as of seven or eight mountains +extending along near each other. The summit of the most of them is +destitute of trees, as there are only rocks on them. The woods consist of +pines, firs, and birches only. I named it Isle des Monts Deserts.[92] The +latitude is 44 deg. 30'. + +The next day, the 6th of the month, we sailed two leagues, and perceived a +smoke in a cove at the foot of the mountains above mentioned. We saw two +canoes rowed by savages, which came within musket range to observe us. I +sent our two Savages in a boat to assure them of our friendship. Their fear +of us made them turn back. On the morning of the next day, they came +alongside of our barque and talked with our savages. I ordered some +biscuit, tobacco, and other trifles to be given them. These savages had +come beaver-hunting and to catch fish, some of which they gave us. Having +made an alliance with them, they guided us to their river of Pentegoueet, +[93] so called by them, where they told us was their captain, named +Bessabez, chief of this river. I think this river is that which several +pilots and historians call Norumbegue, [94] and which most have described +as large and extensive, with very many islands, its mouth being in latitude +43 deg., 43 deg. 30', according to others in 44 deg., more or less. With regard to the +deflection, I have neither read, nor heard any one say any thing. It is +related also that there is a large, thickly settled town of savages, who +are adroit and skillful, and who have cotton yarn. I am confident that most +of those who mention it have not seen it, and speak of it because they have +heard persons say so, who knew no more about it than they themselves. I am +ready to believe that some may have seen the mouth of it, because there are +in reality many islands, and it is, as they say, in latitude 44 deg. at its +entrance. But that any one has ever entered it there is no evidence, for +then they would have described it in another manner, in order to relieve +the minds of many of this doubt. + +I will accordingly relate truly what I explored and saw, from the beginning +as far as I went. + +In the first place, there are at its entrance several islands distant ten +or twelve leagues from the main land, which are in latitude 44 deg., and 18 deg. +40' of the deflection of the magnetic needle. The Isle des Monts Deserts +forms one of the extremities of the mouth, on the east; the other is low +land, called by the savages Bedabedec, [95] to the west of the former, the +two being distant from each other nine or ten leagues. Almost midway +between these, out in the ocean, there is another island very high and +conspicuous, which on this account I have named Isle Haute. [96] All around +there is a vast number of varying extent and breadth, but the largest is +that of the Monts Deserts. Fishing as also hunting are very good here; the +fish are of various kinds. Some two or three leagues from the point of +Bedabedec, as you coast northward along the main land which extends up this +river, there are very high elevations of land, which in fair weather are +seen twelve or fifteen leagues out at Sea. [97] Passing to the South of the +Isle Haute, and coasting along the same for a quarter of a league, where +there are some reefs out of water, and heading to the west until you open +all the mountains northward of this island, you can be sure that, by +keeping in sight the eight or nine peaks of the Monts Deserts and +Bedabedec, you will cross the river Norumbegue; and in order to enter it +you must keep to the north, that is, towards the highest mountains of +Bedabedec, where you will see no islands before you, and can enter, sure of +having water enough, although you see a great many breakers, islands, and +rocks to the east and west of you. For greater security, one should keep +the sounding lead in hand. And my observations lead me to conclude that one +cannot enter this river in any other place except in small vessels or +shallops. For, as I stated above, there are numerous islands, rocks, +shoals, banks, and breakers on all sides, so that it is marvellous to +behold. + +Now to resume our course: as one enters the river, there are beautiful +islands, which are very pleasant and contain fine meadows. We proceeded to +a place to which the savages guided us, where the river is not more than an +eighth of a league broad, and at a distance of some two hundred paces from +the western shore there is a rock on a level with the water, of a dangerous +character.[98] From here to the Isle Haute, it is fifteen leagues. From +this narrow place, where there is the least breadth that we had found, +after sailing some seven or eight leagues, we came to a little river near +which it was necessary to anchor, as we saw before us a great many rocks +which are uncovered at low tide, and since also, if we had desired to sail +farther, we could have gone scarcely half a league, in consequence of a +fall of water there coming down a slope of seven or eight feet, which I saw +as I went there in a canoe with our savages; and we found only water enough +for a canoe. But excepting the fall, which is some two hundred paces broad, +the river is beautiful, and unobstructed up to the place where we had +anchored. I landed to view the country, and, going on a hunting excursion, +found it very pleasant so far as I went. The oaks here appear as if they +were planted for ornament. I saw only a few firs, but numerous pines on one +side of the river; on the other only oaks, and some copse wood which +extends far into the interior.[99] And I will state that from the entrance +to where we went, about twenty-five leagues, we saw no town, nor village, +nor the appearance of there having been one, but one or two cabins of the +savages without inhabitants. These were made in the same way as those of +the Souriquois, being covered with the bark of trees. So far as we could +judge, the Savages on this river are few in number, and are called +Etechemins. Moreover, they only come to the islands, and that only during +some months in summer for fish and game, of which there is a great +quantity. They are a people who have no fixed abode, so far as I could +observe and learn from them. For they spend the winter now in one place and +now in another, according as they find the best hunting, by which they live +when urged by their daily needs, without laying up any thing for times of +scarcity, which are sometimes severe. + +Now this river must of necessity be the Norumbegue; for, having coasted +along past it as far as the 41 deg. of latitude, we have found no other on the +parallel above mentioned, except that of the Quinibequy, which is almost in +the same latitude, but not of great extent. Moreover, there cannot be in +any other place a river extending far into the interior of the country, +since the great river St. Lawrence washes the coast of La Cadie and +Norumbegue, and the distance from one to the other by land is not more than +forty-five leagues, or sixty at the widest point, as can be seen on my +geographical map. + +Now I will drop this discussion to return to the savages who had conducted +me to the falls of the river Norumbegue, who went to notify Bessabez, their +chief, and other savages, who in turn proceeded to another little river to +inform their own, named Cabahis, and give him notice of our arrival. + +The 16th of the month there came to us some thirty savages on assurances +given them by those who had served us as guides. There came also to us the +same day the above named Bessabez with six canoes. As soon as the savages +who were on land saw him coming, they all began to sing, dance, and jump, +until he had landed. Afterwards, they all seated themselves in a circle on +the ground, as is their custom, when they wish to celebrate a festivity, or +an harangue is to be made. Cabahis, the other chief, arrived also a little +later with twenty or thirty of his companions, who withdrew one side and +enjoyed greatly seeing us, as it was the first time they had seen +Christians. A little while after, I went on shore with two of my companions +and two of our savages who served as interpreters. I directed the men in +our barque to approach near the savages, and hold their arms in readiness +to do their duty in case they noticed any movement of these people against +us. Bessabez, seeing us on land, bade us sit down, and began to smoke with +his companions, as they usually do before an address. They presented us +with venison and game. + +I directed our interpreter to say to our savages that they should cause +Bessabez, Cabahis, and their companions to understand that Sieur de Monts +had sent me to them to see them, and also their country, and that he +desired to preserve friendship with them and to reconcile them with their +enemies, the Souriquois and Canadians, and moreover that he desired to +inhabit their country and show them how to cultivate it, in order that they +might not continue to lead so miserable a life as they were doing, and some +other words on the same subject. This our savages interpreted to them, at +which they signified their great satisfaction, saying that no greater good +could come to them than to have our friendship, and that they desired to +live in peace with their enemies, and that we should dwell in their land, +in order that they might in future more than ever before engage in hunting +beavers, and give us a part of them in return for our providing them with +things which they wanted. After he had finished his discourse, I presented +them with hatchets, paternosters, caps, knives, and other little +knick-knacks, when we separated from each other. All the rest of this day +and the following night, until break of day, they did nothing but dance, +sing, and make merry, after which we traded for a certain number of +beavers. Then each party returned, Bessabez with his companions on the one +side, and we on the other, highly pleased at having made the acquaintance +of this people. + +The 17th of the month I took the altitude, [100] and found the latitude 45 deg. +25'. This done, we set out for another river called Quinibequy, distant +from this place thirty-five leagues, and nearly twenty from Bedabedec. This +nation of savages of Quinibequy are called Etechemins, as well as those of +Norumbegue. + +The 18th of the month we passed near a small river where Cabahis was, who +came with us in our barque some twelve leagues; and having asked him whence +came the river Norumbegue, he told me that it passes the fall which I +mentioned above, and that one journeying some distance on it enters a lake +by way of which they come to the river of St. Croix, by going some distance +over land, and then entering the river of the Etechemins. Moreover, another +river enters the lake, along which they proceed some days, and afterwards +enter another lake and pass through the midst of it. Reaching the end of +it, they make again a land journey of some distance, and then enter another +little river, which has its mouth a league from Quebec, which is on the +great river St. Lawrence. [101] All these people of Norumbegue are very +swarthy, dressed in beaver-skins and other furs, like the Canadian and +Souriquois savages, and they have the same mode of life. + +The 20th of the month we sailed along the western coast, and passed the +mountains of Bedabedec, [102] when we anchored. The same day we explored +the entrance to the river, where large vessels can approach; but there are +inside some reefs, to avoid which one must advance with sounding lead in +hand. Our Savages left us, as they did not wish to go to Quinibequy, for +the savages of that place are great enemies to them. We sailed some eight +leagues along the western coast to an island [103] ten leagues distant from +Quinibequy, where we were obliged to put in on account of bad weather and +contrary wind. At one point in our course, we passed a large number of +islands and breakers extending some leagues out to sea, and very dangerous. +And in view of the bad weather, which was so unfavorable to us, we did not +sail more than three or four leagues farther. All these islands and coasts +are covered with extensive woods, of the same sort as that which I have +reported above as existing on the other coasts. And in consideration of the +small quantity of provisions which we had, we resolved to return to our +settlement and wait until the following year, when we hoped to return and +explore more extensively. We accordingly set out on our return on the 23d +of September, and arrived at our settlement on the 2d of October following. + +The above is an exact statement of all that I have observed respecting not +only the coasts and people, but also the river of Norumbegue; and there are +none of the marvels there which some persons have described. I am of +opinion that this region is as disagreeable in winter as that of our +settlement, in which we were greatly deceived. [104] + +ENDNOTES: + +92. The natives called this island Pemetiq. _Isle que les Saunages + appellent Pemetiq.--Vide Relation de la Nouvelle-France_, par F. Biard. + 1616. Relations des Jesuites, Quebec ed. 1858. p. 44. When the attempt + was made in 1613 to plant a colony there on the Marchioness de + Guercheville, the settlement was named St. Sauveur. This island was + also by the English called Mount Mansell. But the name given to it by + Champlain has prevailed, and still adheres to it. + + The description here given of the barrenness of the island clearly + suggests the origin of the name. Desert should therefore be pronounced + with the accent on the first syllable. The latitude of the most + northern limit of the island is 44 deg. 24'. + +93. Penobscot. The name of this river has been variously written Pentagoet, + Pentagwet, Pemptegoet, Pentagovett, Penobskeag, Penaubsket, and in + various other ways. The English began early to write it Penobscot. It + is a word of Indian origin, and different meanings have been assigned + to it by those who have undertaken to interpret the language from which + it is derived. + +94. The Abbe Laverdiere is of the opinion that the river Norumbegue was + identical with the Bay of Fundy. His only authority is Jean Alfonse, + the chief pilot of Roberval in 1541-42. Alfonse says; "Beyond the cape + of Noroveregue descends the river of the said Noroveregue, which is + about twenty-five leagues from the cape. The said river is more than + forty leagues broad at its mouth, and extends this width inward well + thirty or forty leagues, and is all full of islands which enter ten or + twelve leagues into the sea, and it is very dangerous with rocks and + reefs." If the cape of Norumbegue is the present Cape Sable, as it is + supposed to be, by coasting along the shores of Nova Scotia from that + cape in a north-westerly direction a little more than twenty leagues, + we shall reach St. Mary's Bay, which may be regarded as the beginning + of the Bay of Fundy, and from that point in a straight line to the + mouth of the Penobscot the distance is more than forty leagues, which + was the breadth of the Norumbegue at its mouth, according to the + statement of Alfonse. The Abbe Laverdiere is not quite correct in + saying that the river Norumbegue is the same as the Bay of Fundy. It + includes, according to Alfonse, who is not altogether consistent with + himself, not only the Bay of Fundy, but likewise the Penobscot River + and the bay of the same name, with its numerous islands. Alfonse left a + drawing or map of this region in his Cosmography, which Laverdiere had + not probably seen, on which the Bay of Fundy and the Penobscot are + correctly laid down, and the latter is designated the "_Riviere de + Norvebergue_." It is therefore obvious, if this map can be relied upon, + that the river of Norumbegue was identical, not with the Bay of Fundy, + but with the Penobscot, in the opinion of Alfonse, in common with the + "plusieurs pilottes et historiens" referred to by Champlain.--_Vide + copy of the Chart from the MS. Cosmography of Juan Alfonse_ in + Bibliotheque Nationale, Paris, in Mr. Murphy's Voyage of Verrazzano, + New York, 1875. + +95. An indefinite region about Rockland and Camden, on the western bank of + the Penobscot near its mouth, appears to have been the domain of the + Indian chief, Bessabez, and was denominated Bedabedec. The Camden Hills + were called the mountains of Bedabedec, and Owl's Head was called + Bedabedec Point. + +96. Isle Haute, _high island_, which name it still retains. Champlain wrote + it on his map, 1632, "Isle Haulte." It has been anglicized by some into + Isle Holt. It is nearly six miles long, and has an average width of + over two miles, and is the highest land in its vicinity, reaching at + its highest point four hundred feet above the level of the sea. + +97. Camden Hills or Mountains. They are five or six in number, from 900 to + 1,500 feet high, and maybe seen, it is said, twenty leagues at sea. The + more prominent are Mt. Batty, Mt. Pleasant, and Mt. Hosmer, or Ragged + Mountain. They are Sometimes called the Megunticook Range. Colonel + Benjamin Church denominates them "Mathebestuck's Hills,"--_Vide + Church's History of King Philip's War_, Newport, 1772, p. 143. Captain + John Smith calls them the mountains of Penobscot, "against whose feet + doth beat the sea." which, he adds, "you may well see sixteen or + eighteen leagues from their situation." + +98. This narrow place in the river is just above Castine, where Cape + Jellison stretches out towards the east, at the head of the bay, and at + the mouth of the river. At the extremity of the cape is Fort Point, so + called from Fort Pownall, erected there in 1759, a step rocky elevation + of about eighty feet in height. Before the erection of the fort by + Governor Pownall, it was called Wafaumkeag Point.--_Vide Pownall's + Journal_, Col. Me. His. Soc., Vol. V. p. 385. The "rock" alluded to by + Champlain is Fort Point Ledge, bare at half tide, south-east by east + from the Point, and distant over half a mile. Champlain's distances + here are somewhat overestimated. + +99. The terminus of this exploration of the Penobscot was near the present + site of the city of Bangor. The small river near the mouth of which + they anchored was the Kenduskeag. The falls which Champlain visited + with the Indians in a canoe are those a short distance above the + city. The sentence, a few lines back, beginning "But excepting this + fall" is complicated, and not quite logical, but the author evidently + means to describe the river from its mouth to the place of their + anchorage at Bangor. + +100. The interview with the Indians on the 16th, and the taking of the + altitude on the 17th, must have occurred before the party left their + anchorage at Bangor with the purpose, but which they did not + accomplish that year, of visiting the Kennebec. This may be inferred + from Champlain's statement that the Kennebec was thirty-five leagues + distant from the place where they then were, and nearly twenty leagues + distant from Bedabedec. Consequently, they were fifteen leagues above + Bedabedec, which was situated near the mouth of the river. The + latitude, which they obtained from their observations, was far from + correct: it should be 44 deg. 46'. + +101. The Indian chief Cabahis here points out two trails, the one leading + to the French habitation just established on the Island of St. Croix, + the other to Quebec; by the former, passing up the Penobscot from the + present site of Bangor, entering the Matawamkeag, keeping to the east + in their light bark canoes to Lake Boscanhegan, and from there passing + by land to the stream then known as the river of the Etechemins, now + called the Scoudic or St. Croix. The expression "by which they come to + the river of St. Croix" is explanatory: it has no reference to the + name of the river, but means simply that the trail leads to the river + in which was the island of St. Croix. This river had not then been + named St. Croix, but had been called by them the river of the + Etechemins.--_Vide antea_, p. 31. + + The other trail led up the north branch of the Penobscot, passing + through Lake Pemadumcook, and then on through Lake Chefuncook, finally + reaching the source of this stream which is near that of the + Chaudiere, which latter flows into the St. Lawrence, near Quebec. It + would seem from the text that Champlain supposed that the Penobscot + flowed from a lake into which streams flowed from both the objective + points, viz. St. Croix and Quebec: but this was a mistake not at all + unnatural, as he had never been over the ground, and obtained his + information from the Indians, whose language he imperfectly + understood. + +102. Bedabedec is an Indian word, signifying cape of the waters, and was + plainly the point known as Owl's Head. It gave name to the Camden + Mountains also. _Vide antea_, note 95. + +103. Mosquito and Metinic Islands are each about ten leagues east of the + Kennebec. As the party went but four leagues further, the voyage must + have terminated in Muscongus Bay. + +104. An idle story had been circulated, and even found a place on the pages + of sober history, that on the Penobscot, or Norumbegue, as it was then + called, there existed a fair town, a populous city, with the + accessories of luxury and wealth. Champlain here takes pains to show, + in the fullest manner, that this story was a baseless dream of fancy, + and utterly without foundation. Of it Lescarbot naively says, "If this + beautiful town hath ever existed in nature, I would fain know who hath + pulled it down, for there are now only a few scattered wigwams made of + poles covered with the bark of trees and the skins of wild beasts." + There is no evidence, and no probability, that this river had been + navigated by Europeans anterior to this exploration of Champlain. The + existence of the bay and the river had been noted long before. They + are indicated on the map of Ribero in 1529. Rio de Gamas and Rio + Grande appear on early maps as names of this river, but are soon + displaced for Norumbega, a name which was sometimes extended to a wide + range of territory on both sides of the Penobscot. On the Mappe-Monde + of 1543-47, issued by the late M. Jomard, it is denominated + Auorobagra, evidently intended for Norumbega. Thevet, who visited it, + or sailed along its mouth in 1556, speaks of it as Norumbegue. It is + alleged that the aborigines called it Agguncia. According to Jean + Alfonse, it was discovered by the Portuguese and Spaniards.--_Vide + His. de la N. France_, par M. Lescarbot, Paris, 1612, Qvat. Liv. + p. 495. The orthography of this name is various among early writers, + but Norumbegue is adopted by the most approved modern authors. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +OF THE MAL DE LA TERRE, A VERY DESPERATE MALADY.--HOW THE SAVAGES, MEN AND +WOMEN, SPEND THEIR TIME IN WINTER.--AND ALL THAT OCCURRED AT THE SETTLEMENT +WHILE WE WERE PASSING THE WINTER. + +When we arrived at the Island of St. Croix, each one had finished his place +of abode. Winter came upon us sooner than we expected, and prevented us +from doing many things which we had proposed. Nevertheless, Sieur de Monts +did not fail to have some gardens made on the island. Many began to clear +up the ground, each his own. I also did so with mine, which was very large, +where I planted a quantity of foods, as also did the others who had any, +and they came up very well. But since the island was all sandy, every thing +dried up almost as soon as the Sun shone upon it, and we had no water for +irrigation except from the rain, which was infrequent. + +Sieur de Monts caused also clearings to be made on the main land for making +gardens, and at the falls three leagues from our Settlement he had work +done and some wheat sown, which came up very well and ripened. Around our +habitation there is, at low tide, a large number of shell-fish, such as +cockles, muscles, sea-urchins, and Sea-snails, which were very acceptable +to all. + +The snows began on the 6th of October. On the 3d of December, we saw ice +pass which came from some frozen river. The cold was sharp, more severe +than in France, and of much longer duration; and it scarcely rained at all +the entire winter. I suppose that is owing to the north and north-west +winds passing over high mountains always covered with snow. The latter was +from three to four feet deep up to the end of the month of April; lasting +much longer, I suppose, than it would if the country were cultivated. + +During the winter, many of our company were attacked by a certain malady +called the _mal de la terre_; otherwise scurvy, as I have since heard from +learned men. There were produced, in the mouths of those who had it, great +pieces of superfluous and drivelling flesh (causing extensive +putrefaction), which got the upper hand to such an extent that scarcely +anything but liquid could be taken. Their teeth became very loose, and +could be pulled out with the fingers without its causing them pain. The +superfluous flesh was often cut out, which caused them to eject much blood +through the mouth. Afterwards, a violent pain seized their arms and legs, +which remained swollen and very hard, all spotted as if with flea-bites; +and they could not walk on account of the contraction of the muscles, so +that they were almost without strength, and suffered intolerable pains. +They experienced pain also in the loins, stomach, and bowels, had a very +bad cough, and short breath. In a word, they were in such a condition that +the majority of them could not rise nor move, and could not even be raised +up on their feet without falling down in a swoon. So that out of +seventy-nine, who composed our party, thirty-five died, and more than +twenty were on the point of death. The majority of those who remained well +also complained of slight pains and short breath. We were unable to find +any remedy for these maladies. A _post mortem_ examination of several was +made to investigate the cause of their disease. + +In the case of many, the interior parts were found mortified such as the +lungs, which were so changed that no natural fluid could be perceived in +them. The spleen was serous and swollen. The liver was _legueux?_ and +spotted, without its natural color. The _vena cava_, superior and inferior, +was filled with thick coagulated and black blood. The gall was tainted. +Nevertheless, many arteries, in the middle as well as lower bowels, were +found in very good condition. In the case of some, incisions with a razor +were made on the thighs where they had purple spots, whence there issued a +very black clotted blood. This is what was observed on the bodies of those +infected with this malady.[105] + +Our surgeons could not help suffering themselves in the same manner as the +rest. Those who continued sick were healed by spring, which commences in +this country in May.[106] That led us to believe that the change of season +restored their health rather than the remedies prescribed. + +During this winter, all our liquors froze, except the Spanish wine. Cider +was dispensed by the pound. The cause of this loss was that there were no +cellars to our storehouse, and that the air which entered by the cracks was +sharper than that outside. We were obliged to use very bad water, and drink +melted snow, as there were no springs nor brooks; for it was not possible +to go to the main land in consequence of the great pieces of ice drifted by +the tide, which varies three fathoms between low and high water. Work on +the hand-mill was very fatiguing, since the most of us, having slept +poorly, and suffering from insufficiency of fuel, which we could not obtain +on account of the ice, had scarcely any strength, and also because we ate +only salt meat and vegetables during the winter, which produce bad blood. +The latter circumstance was, in my opinion, a partial cause of these +dreadful maladies. All this produced discontent in Sieur de Monts and +others of the settlement. + +It would be very difficult to ascertain the character of this region +without spending a winter in it; for, on arriving here in summer, every +thing is very agreeable, in consequence of the woods, fine country, and the +many varieties of good fish which are found there. There are six months of +winter in this country. + +The savages who dwell here are few in number. During the winter, in the +deepest snows, they hunt elks and other animals, on which they live most of +the time. And, unless the snow is deep, they scarcely get rewarded for +their pains, since they cannot capture any thing except by a very great +effort, which is the reason for their enduring and suffering much. When +they do not hunt, they live on a shell-fish, called the cockle. They clothe +themselves in winter with good furs of beaver and elk. The women make all +the garments, but not so exactly but that you can see the flesh under the +arm-pits, because they have not ingenuity enough to fit them better. When +they go a hunting, they use a kind of show-shoe twice as large as those +hereabouts, which they attach to the soles of their feet, and walk thus +over the show without sinking in, the women and children as well as the +men. They search for the track of animals, which, having found, they +follow until they get sight of the creature, when they shoot at it with +their bows, or kill it by means of daggers attached to the end of a short +pike, which is very easily done, as the animals cannot walk on the snow +without sinking in. Then the women and children come up, erect a hut, and +they give themselves to feasting. Afterwards, they return in search of +other animals, and thus they pass the winter. In the month of March +following, some savages came and gave us a portion of their game in +exchange for bread and other things which we gave them. This is the mode of +life in winter of these people, which seems to me a very miserable one. + +We looked for our vessels at the end of April; but, as this passed without +their arriving, all began to have an ill-boding, fearing that some accident +had befallen them. For this reason, on the 15th of May, Sieur de Monts +decided to have a barque of fifteen tons and another of seven fitted up, so +that we might go at the end of the month of June to Gaspe in quest of +vessels in which to return to France, in case our own should not meanwhile +arrive. But God helped us better than we hoped; for, on the 15th of June +ensuing, while on guard about 11 o'clock at night, Pont Grave, captain of +one of the vessels of Sieur de Monts, arriving in a shallop, informed us +that his ship was anchored six leagues from our settlement, and he was +welcomed amid the great joy of all. + +The next day the vessel arrived, and anchored near our habitation. Pont +Grave informed us that a vessel from St. Malo, called the St. Estienne, +was following him, bringing us provisions and supplies. + +On the 17th of the month, Sieur de Monts decided to go in quest of a place +better adapted for an abode, and with a better temperature than our own. +With this view, he had the barque made ready, in which he had purposed to +go to Gaspe. + +ENDNOTES: + +105. _Mal de la terre_. Champlain had bitter experiences of this disease in + Quebec during the winter of 1608-9, when he was still ignorant of its + character; and it was not till several years later that he learned + that it was the old malady called _scurbut_, from the Sclavonic + _scorb_. Latinized into _scorbuticus_. Lescarbot speaks of this + disease as little understood in his time, but as known to Hippocrates. + He quotes Olaus Magnus, who describes it as it appeared among the + nations of the north, who called it _sorbet_, [Greek: kachexia], from + [Greek: kakos], bad, and [Greek: exis], a habit. This undoubtedly + expresses the true cause of this disease, now familiarly known as the + scurvy. It follows exposure to damp, cold, and impure atmosphere, + accompanied by the long-continued use of the same kind of food, + particularly of salt meats, with bad water. All of these conditions + existed at the Island of St. Croix. Champlain's description of the + disease is remarkably accurate. + +106. This passage might be read, "which is in this country in May:" _lequel + commence en ces pays la est en May_. As Laverdiere suggests, it looks + as if Champlain wrote it first _commence_, and then, thinking that the + winter he had experienced might have been exceptional, substituted + _est_, omitting to erase _commence_, so that the sentence, as it + stands, is faulty, containing two verbs instead of one, and being + susceptible of a double sense. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +DISCOVERY OF THE COAST OF THE ALMOUCHIQUOIS AS FAR AS THE FORTY-SECOND +DEGREE OF LATITUDE, AND DETAILS OF THIS VOYAGE. + + +On the 18th of June, 1605, Sieur de Monts set out from the Island of +St. Croix with some gentlemen, twenty sailors, and a savage named +Panounias, together with his wife, whom he was unwilling to leave behind. +These we took, in order to serve us as guides to the country of the +Almouchiquois, in the hope of exploring and learning more particularly by +their aid what the character of this country was, especially since she was +a native of it. + +Coasting, along inside of Manan, an island three leagues from the main +land, we came to the Ranges on the seaward side, at one of which we +anchored, where there was a large number of crows, of which our men +captured a great many, and we called it the Isle aux Corneilles. Thence we +went to the Island of Monts Deserts, at the entrance of the river +Norumbegue, as I have before stated, and sailed five or six leagues among +many islands. Here there came to us three savages in a canoe from Bedabedec +Point, where their captain was; and, after we had had some conversation +with them, they returned the same day. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S DESCRIPTION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +QUINIBEQUY. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. The course of the river. +_B_. Two islands at the entrance of the river. +_C_. Two very dangerous rocks in the river. +_D_. Islets and rocks along the coast. +_E_. Shoals where at full tide vessels of sixty tons' burden may run + aground. +_F_. Place where the savages encamp when they come to fish. +_G_. Sandy shoals along the coast. +_H_. Pond of fresh water. +_I_. Brook where shallops can enter at half tide. +_L_. Islands to the number of four just within the mouth of the river. + + * * * * * + +On Friday, the 1st of July, we set out from one of the islands at the mouth +of the river, where there is a very good harbor for vessels of a hundred or +a hundred and fifty tons. This day we made some twenty-five leagues between +Bedabedec Point and many islands and rocks, which we observed as far as the +river Quinibequy, at the mouth of which is a very high island, which we +called the Tortoise. [107] Between the latter and the main land there are +some scattering rocks, which are covered at full tide, although the sea is +then seen to break over them. [108] Tortoise Island and the river lie +south-south-east and north-north-west. As you enter, there are two +medium-sized islands forming the entrance, one on one side, the other on +the other; [109] and some three hundred paces farther in are two rocks, +where there is no wood, but some little grass. We anchored three hundred +paces from the entrance in five and six fathoms of water. While in this +place, we were overtaken by fogs, on account of which we resolved to enter, +in order to see the upper part of the river and the savages who live there; +and we set out for this purpose on the 5th of the month. Having made some +leagues, our barque came near being lost on a rock which we grazed in +passing. [110] Further on, we met two canoes which had come to hunt birds, +which for the most part are moulting at this season, and cannot fly. We +addressed these savages by aid of our own, who went to them with his wife, +who made them understand the reason of our coming. We made friends with +them and with the savages of this river, who served us as guides. +Proceeding farther, in order to see their captain, named Manthoumermer, we +passed, after we had gone seven or eight leagues, by some islands, straits, +and brooks, which extend along the river, where we saw some fine +meadows. After we had coasted along an island [111] some four leagues in +length, they conducted us to where their chief was [112] with twenty-five +or thirty savages, who, as soon as we had anchored, came to us in a canoe, +separated a short distance from ten others, in which were those who +accompanied him. Coming near our barque, he made an harangue, in which he +expressed the pleasure it gave him to see us, and said that he desired to +form an alliance with us and to make peace with his enemies through our +mediation. He said that, on the next day, he would send to two other +captains of savages, who were in the interior, one called Marchin, and the +other Sasinou, chief of the river Quinibequy. Sieur de Monts gave them some +cakes and peas, with which they were greatly pleased. The next day they +guided us down the river another way than that by which we had come, in +order to go to a lake; and, passing by some islands, they left, each one of +them, an arrow near a cape [113] where all the savages pass, and they +believe that if they should not do this some misfortune would befall them, +according to the persuasions of the devil. They live in such superstitions, +and practise many others of the same sort. Beyond this cape we passed a +very narrow waterfall, but only with great difficulty; for, although we had +a favorable and fresh wind, and trimmed our sails to receive it as well as +possible, in order to see whether we could not pass it in that way, we were +obliged to attach a hawser to some trees on shore and all pull on it. In +this way, by means of our arms together with the help of the wind, which +was favorable to us, we succeeded in passing it. The savages accompanying +us carried their canoes by land, being unable to row them. After going over +this fall, we saw some fine meadows. I was greatly surprised by this fall, +since as we descended with the tide we found it in our favor, but contrary +to us when we came to the fall. But, after we had passed it, it descended +as before, which gave us great Satisfaction. [114] Pursuing our route, we +came to the lake, [115] which is from three to four leagues in length. Here +are some islands, and two rivers enter it, the Quinibequy coming from the +north north-east, and the other from the north-west, whence were to come +Marchin and Sasinou. Having awaited them all this day, and as they did not +come, we resolved to improve our time. We weighed anchor accordingly, and +there accompanied us two savages from this lake to serve as guides. The +same day we anchored at the mouth of the river, where we caught a large +number of excellent fish of various sorts. Meanwhile, our savages went +hunting, but did not return. The route by which we descended this river is +much safer and better than that by which we had gone. Tortoise Island +before the mouth of this river is in latitude [116] 44 deg.; and 19 deg. 12' of the +deflection of the magnetic needle. They go by this river across the country +to Quebec some fifty leagues, making only one portage of two leagues. After +the portage, you enter another little stream which flows into the great +river St. Lawrence [117]. This river Quinibequy is very dangerous for +vessels half a league from its mouth, on account of the small amount of +water, great tides, rocks and shoals outside as well as within. But it has +a good channel, if it were well marked out. The land, so far as I have seen +it along the shores of the river, is very poor, for there are only rocks on +all sides. There are a great many small oaks, and very little arable land. +Fish abound here, as in the other rivers which I have mentioned. The people +live like those in the neighborhood of our settlement; and they told us +that the savages, who plant the Indian corn, dwelt very far in the +interior, and that they had given up planting it on the coasts on account +of the war they had with others, who came and took it away. This is what I +have been able to learn about this region, which I think is no better than +the others. + +On the 8th of the month, we set out from the mouth of this river, not being +able to do so sooner on account of the fogs. We made that day some four +leagues, and passed a bay [118], where there are a great many islands. From +here large mountains [119] are seen to the west, in which is the +dwelling-place of a savage captain called Aneda, who encamps near the river +Quinibequy. I was satisfied from this name that it was one of his tribe +that had discovered the plant called Aneda, [120] which Jacques Cartier +said was so powerful against the malady called scurvy, of which we have +already spoken, which harassed his company as well as our own, when they +wintered in Canada. The savages have no knowledge at all of this plant, and +are not aware of its existence, although the above-mentioned savage has the +same name. The following day we made eight leagues. [121] As we passed +along the coast, we perceived two columns of smoke which some savages made +to attract our attention. We went and anchored in the direction of them +behind a small island near the main land, [122] where we saw more than +eighty savages running along the shore to see us, dancing and giving +expression to their joy. Sieur de Monts sent two men together with our +savage to visit them. After they had spoken some time with them, and +assured them of our friendship, we left with them one of our number, and +they delivered to us one of their companions as a hostage. Meanwhile, Sieur +de Monts visited an island, which is very beautiful in view of what it +produces; for it has fine oaks and nut-trees, the soil cleared up, and many +vineyards bearing beautiful grapes in their season, which were the first we +had seen on all these coasts from the Cap de la Heve. We named it Isle de +Bacchus [123]. It being full tide, we weighed anchor and entered a little +river, which we could not sooner do; for there is a bar, there being at low +tide only half a fathom of water, at full tide a fathom and a half, and at +the highest water two fathoms. On the other side of the bar there are +three, four, five, and six fathoms. When we had anchored, a large number of +savages came to the bank of the river, and began to dance. Their captain at +the time, whom they called Honemechin [124], was not with them. He arrived +about two or three hours later with two canoes, when he came sweeping +entirely round our barque. Our savage could understand only a few words, as +the language of the Almouchiquois [125] (for that is the name of this +nation) differs entirely from that of the Souriquois and Etechemins. These +people gave signs of being greatly pleased. Their chief had a good figure, +was young and agile. We sent some articles of merchandise on shore to +barter with them; but they had nothing but their robes to give in exchange, +for they preserve only such furs as they need for their garments. Sieur de +Monts ordered some provisions to be given to their chief, with which he was +greatly pleased, and came several times to the side of our boat to see us. +These savages shave off the hair far up on the head, and wear what remains +very long, which they comb and twist behind in various ways very neatly, +intertwined with feathers which they attach to the head. They paint their +faces black and red, like the other savages which we have seen. They are an +agile people, with well-formed bodies. Their weapons are pikes, clubs, bows +and arrows, at the end of which some attach the tail of a fish called the +signoc, others bones, while the arrows of others are entirely of wood. They +till and cultivate the soil, something which we have not hitherto +observed. In the place of ploughs, they use an instrument of very hard +wood, shaped like a spade. This river is called by the inhabitants of the +country Choueacoet. [126] + +The next day Sieur de Monts and I landed to observe their tillage on the +bank of the river. We saw their Indian corn, which they raise in gardens. +Planting three or four kernels in one place, they then heap up about it a +quantity of earth with shells of the signoc before mentioned. Then three +feet distant they plant as much more, and thus in succession. With this +corn they put in each hill three or four Brazilian beans, [127] which are +of different colors. When they grow up, they interlace with the corn, which +reaches to the height of from five to six feet; and they keep the ground +very free from weeds. We saw there many squashes,[128] and pumpkins, [129] +and tobacco, which they likewise cultivate. [130] + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +CHOUACOIT R. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. The river. +_B_. Place where they have their fortress. +_C_. Cabins in the open fields, near which they cultivate the land and + plant Indian corn. +_D_. Extensive tract of land which is sandy, but covered with grass. +_E_. Another place where they have their dwellings all together after they + have planted their corn. +_F_. Marshes with good pasturage. +_G_. Spring of fresh water. +_H_. A large point of land all cleared up except some fruit trees and wild + vines. +_I_. Little island at the entrance of the river. +_L_. Another islet. +_M_. Two islands under shelter of which vessels can anchor with good + bottom. +_N_. A point of land cleared up where Marchin came to us. +_O_. Four islands. +_P_. Little brook dry at low tide. +_Q_. Shoals along the coast. +_R_. Roadsted where vessels can anchor while waiting for the tide. + +NOTES. Of the two islands in the northern part of the bay, the larger, +marked _M_, is Stratton Island, nearly half a mile long, and a mile and a +half from Prout's Neck, which lies north of it. A quarter of a mile from +Stratton is Bluff Island, a small island north-west of it. Of the four +islands at the southern end of the bay, the most eastern is Wood Island, on +which the United States maintain a light. The next on the west, two hundred +and fifty yards distant, is Negro Island. The third still further west is +Stage Island. The fourth, quarter of a mile west of the last named, is +Basket Island. The neck or peninsula, south-west of the islands, is now +called the POOL, much resorted to as a watering-place in the summer. The +island near the mouth of the river is Ram Island, and that directly north +of it is Eagle Island. From the mouth of the River to Prout's Neck, marked, +is one of the finest beaches in New England, extending about six nautical +miles. Its Southern extremity is known as Ferry, the northern Scarborough, +and midway between them is Old Orchard Beach, the latter a popular resort +in the summer months of persons from distant parts of the United States and +Canada. + + * * * * * + +The Indian corn which we saw was at that time about two feet high, some of +it as high as three. The beans were beginning to flower, as also the +pumpkins and squashes. They plant their corn in May, and gather it in +September. We saw also a great many nuts, which are small and have several +divisions. There were as yet none on the trees, but we found plenty under +them, from the preceding year. We saw also many grape-vines, on which there +was a remarkably fine berry, from which we made some very good verjuice. +We had heretofore seen grapes only on the Island of Bacchus, distant nearly +two leagues from this river. Their permanent abode, the tillage, and the +fine trees led us to conclude that the air here is milder and better than +that where we passed the winter, and at the other places we visited on the +coast. But I cannot believe that there is not here a considerable degree +of cold, although it is in latitude 43 deg. 45'. [131] The forests in the +interior are very thin, although abounding in oaks, beeches, ashes, and +elms; in wet places there are many willows. The savages dwell permanently +in this place, and have a large cabin surrounded by palisades made of +rather large trees placed by the side of each other, in which they take +refuge when their enemies make war upon them. [132] They cover their cabins +with oak bark. This place is very pleasant, and as agreeable as any to be +seen. The river is very abundant in fish, and is bordered by meadows. At +the mouth there is a small island adapted for the construction of a good +fortress, where one could be in security. + +On Sunday, [133] the 12th of the month, we set out from the river +Choueacoet. After coasting along some six or seven leagues, a contrary wind +arose, which obliged us to anchor and go ashore, [134] where we saw two +meadows, each a league in length and half a league in breadth. We saw there +two savages, whom at first we took to be the great birds called bustards, +to be found in this country; who, as soon as they caught sight of us, took +flight into the woods, and were not seen again. From Choueacoet to this +place, where we saw some little birds, which sing like blackbirds, and are +black excepting the ends of the wings, which are orange-colored, [135] +there is a large number of grape-vines and nut-trees. This coast is sandy, +for the most part, all the way from Quinibequy. This day we returned two +or three leagues towards Choueacoet, as far as a cape which we called Island +Harbor, [136] favorable for vessels of a hundred tons, about which are +three islands. Heading north-east a quarter north, one can enter another +harbor [137] near this place, to which there is no approach, although there +are islands, except the one where you enter. At the entrance there are some +dangerous reefs. There are in these islands so many red currants that one +sees for the most part nothing else, [138] and an infinite number of +pigeons, [139] of which we took a great quantity. This Island Harbor [140] +is in latitude 43 deg. 25'. + +On the 15th of the month we made twelve leagues. Coasting along, we +perceived a smoke on the shore, which we approached as near as possible, +but saw no savage, which led us to believe that they had fled. The sun set, +and we could find no harbor for that night, since the coast was flat and +sandy. Keeping off, and heading south, in order to find an anchorage, after +proceeding about two leagues, we observed a cape [141] on the main land +south a quarter south-east of us, some six leagues distant. Two leagues to +the east we saw three or four rather high islands, [142] and on the west a +large bay. The coast of this bay, reaching as far as the cape, extends +inland from where we were perhaps four leagues. It has a breadth of two +leagues from north to south, and three at its entrance. [143] Not observing +any place favorable for putting in, [144] we resolved to go to the cape +above mentioned with short sail, which occupied a portion of the night. +Approaching to where there were sixteen fathoms of water, we anchored until +daybreak. + +On the next day we went to the above-mentioned cape, where there are three +islands [145] near the main land, full of wood of different kinds, as at +Choueacoet and all along the coast; and still another flat one, where there +are breakers, and which extends a little farther out to Sea than the +others, on which there is no wood at all. We named this place Island Cape, +[146] near which we saw a canoe containing five or six savages, who came +out near our barque, and then went back and danced on the beach. Sieur de +Monts sent me on shore to observe them, and to give each one of them a +knife and some biscuit, which caused them to dance again better than +before. This over, I made them understand, as well as I could, that I +desired them to show me the course of the shore. After I had drawn with a +crayon the bay, [147] and the Island Cape, where we were, with the same +crayon they drew the outline of another bay, [148] which they represented +as very large; here they placed six pebbles at equal distances apart, +giving me to understand by this that these signs represented as many chiefs +and tribes. [149] Then they drew within the first mentioned bay a river +which we had passed, which has shoals and is very long. [150] We found in +this place a great many vines, the green grapes on which were a little +larger than peas, also many nut-trees, the nuts on which were no larger +than musket-balls. The savages told us that all those inhabiting this +country cultivated the land and sowed seeds like the others, whom we had +before seen. The latitude of this place is 43 deg. and some minutes. [151] +Sailing half a league farther, we observed several savages on a rocky +point, [152] who ran along the shore, dancing as they went, to their +companions to inform them of our coming. After pointing out to us the +direction of their abode, they made a signal with smoke to show us the +place of their settlement. We anchored near a little island, [153] and sent +our canoe with knives and cakes for the savages. From the large number of +those we saw, we concluded that these places were better inhabited than the +others we had seen. + +After a stay of some two hours for the sake of observing those people, +whose canoes are made of birch bark, like those of the Canadians, +Souriquois, and Etechemins, we weighed anchor and set sail with a promise +of fine weather. Continuing our course to the west-south-west we saw +numerous islands on one side and the other. Having sailed seven or eight +leagues, we anchored near an island, [154] whence we observed many smokes +along the shore, and many savages running up to see us. Sieur de Monts sent +two or three men in a canoe to them, to whom he gave some knives and +paternosters to present to them; with which they were greatly pleased, and +danced several times in acknowledgment. We could not ascertain the name of +their chief, as we did not know their language. All along the shore there +is a great deal of land cleared up and planted with Indian corn. The +country is very pleasant and agreeable, and there is no lack of fine trees. +The canoes of those who live there are made of a single piece, and are very +liable to turn over if one is not skilful in managing them. We had not +before seen any of this kind. They are made in the following manner. After +cutting down, at a cost of much labor and time, the largest and tallest +tree they can find, by means of stone hatchets (for they have no others +except some few which they received from the Savages on the coasts of La +Cadie, [155] them in exchange for furs), they remove the bark, and round +off the tree except on one side, where they apply fire gradually along its +entire length; and sometimes they put red-hot pebble-stones on top. When +the fire is too fierce, they extinguish it with a little water, not +entirely, but so that the edge of the boat may not be burnt. It being +hollowed out as much as they wish, they scrape it all over with stones, +which they use instead of knives. These stones resemble our musket flints. + +On the next day, the 17th of the month, we weighed anchor to go to a cape +we had seen the day before, which seemed to lie on our south +south-west. This day we were able to make only five leagues, and we passed +by some islands [156] covered with wood. I observed in the bay all that the +savages had described to me at Island Cape. As we continued our course, +large numbers came to us in canoes from the islands and main land. We +anchored a league from a cape, which we named St. Louis, [157] where we +noticed smoke in several places. While in the act of going there, our +barque grounded on a rock, where we were in great danger, for, if we had +not speedily got it off, it would have overturned in the sea, since the +tide was falling all around, and there were five or six fathoms of +water. But God preserved us, and we anchored near the above-named cape, +when there come to us fifteen or sixteen canoes of savages. In some of them +there were fifteen or sixteen, who began to manifest great signs of joy, +and made various harangues, which we could not in the least understand. +Sieur de Monts sent three or four men on shore in our canoe, not only to +get water, but to see their chief, whose name was Honabetha. The latter had +a number of knives and other trifles, which Sieur de Monts gave him, when +he came alongside to see us, together with some of his companions, who were +present both along the shore and in their canoes. We received the chief +very cordially, and made him welcome; who, after remaining some time, went +back. Those whom we had sent to them brought us some little squashes as big +as the fist, which we ate as a salad, like cucumbers, and which we found +very good. They brought also some purslane, [158] which grows in large +quantities among the Indian corn, and of which they make no more account +than of weeds. We saw here a great many little houses, scattered over the +fields where they plant their Indian corn. + +There is, moreover, in this bay a very broad river, which we named River du +Guast. [159] It stretches, as it seemed to me, towards the Iroquois, a +nation in open warfare with the Montagnais, who live on the great river +St. Lawrence. + +ENDNOTES: + +107. _Isle de la Tortue_, commonly known as Seguin Island, high and rocky, + with precipitous shores. It is nearly equidistant from Wood, Pond, and + Salter's Islands at the mouth of the Kennebec, and about one mile and + three quarters from each. The United States light upon it is 180 feet + above the level of the sea. It may be seen at the distance of twenty + miles. + +108. Ellingwood Rock, Seguin Ledges, and White Ledge. + +109. Pond Island on the west, and Stage Island on the east: the two rocks + referred to in the same sentence are now called the Sugar Loaves. + +110. This was apparently in the upper part of Back River, where it is + exceedingly narrow. The minute and circumstantial description of the + mouth of the Kennebec, and the positive statement in the text that + they entered the river so described, and the conformity of the + description to that laid down on our Coast Survey Charts, as well as + on Champlain's local map, all render it certain that they entered the + mouth of the Kennebec proper; and having entered, they must have + passed on a flood-tide into and through Back River, which in some + places is so narrow that their little barque could hardly fall to be + grazed in passing. Having reached Hockomock Bay, they passed down + through the lower Hell Gate, rounded the southern point of West Port + or Jerremisquam Island, sailing up its eastern shore until they + reached the harbor of Wiscasset; then down the western side, turning + Hockomock Point, threading the narrow passage of the Sasanoa River + through the upper Hell Gate, entering the Sagadahoc, passing the + Chops, and finally through the Neck, into Merrymeeting Bay. The + narrowness of the channel and the want of water at low tide in Back + River would seem at first blush to throw a doubt over the possibility + of Champlain's passing through this tidal passage. But it has at least + seven feet of water at high tide. His little barque, of fifteen tons, + without any cargo, would not draw more than four feet at most, and + would pass through without any difficulty, incommoded only by the + narrowness of the channel to which Champlain refers. With the same + barque, they passed over the bar at Nauset, or Mallebarre, where + Champlain distinctly says there were only four feet of water.--_Vide + postea_, p. 81. + +111. West Port, or Jerremisquam Island. + +112. This was Wiscasset Harbor, as farther on it will be seen that from + this point they started down the river, taking another way than that + by which they had come. + +113. Hockomock Point, a rocky precipitous bluff. + +114. The movement of the waters about this "narrow waterfall" has been a + puzzle from the days of Champlain to the present time. The phenomena + have not changed. Having consulted the United States Coast Pilot and + likewise several persons who have navigated these waters and have a + personal knowledge of the "fall," the following is, we think, a + satisfactory explanation. The stream in which the fall occurs is + called the Sasanoa, and is a tidal current flowing from the Kennebec, + opposite the city of Bath, to the Sheepscot. It was up this tidal + passage that Champlain was sailing from the waters of the Sheepscot to + the Kennebec, and the "narrow waterfall" was what is now called the + upper Hell Gate, which is only fifty yards wide, hemmed in by walls of + rock on both sides. Above it the Sasanoa expands into a broad bay. + When the tide from the Kennebec has filled this bay, the water rushes + through this narrow gate with a velocity Sometimes of thirteen miles + an hour. There is properly no fall in the bed of the stream, but the + appearance of a fall is occasioned by the pent-up waters of the bay + above rushing through this narrow outlet, having accumulated faster + than they could be drained off. At half ebb, on a spring tide, a wall + of water from six inches to a foot stretches across the stream, and + the roar of the flood boiling over the rocks at the Gate can be heard + two miles below. The tide continues to flow up the Sasanoa from the + Sheepscot not only on the flood, but for some time on the ebb, as the + waters in the upper part of the Sheepscot and its bays, in returning, + naturally force themselves up this passage until they are sufficiently + drained off to turn the current in the Sasanoa in the other direction. + Champlain, sailing from the Sheepscot up the Sasanoa, arrived at the + Gate probably just as the tide was beginning to turn, and when there + was comparatively only a slight fall, but yet enough to make it + necessary to force their little barque up through the Gate by means of + hawsers as described in the text. After getting a short distance from + the narrows, he would be on the water ebbing back into the Kennebec, + and would be still moving with the tide, as he had been until he + reached the fall. + +115. Merrymeeting Bay, so called from the meeting in this bay of the two + rivers mentioned in the text a little below, viz., the Kennebec and + the Androscoggin. + +116. The latitude of Seguin, here called Tortoise Island, is 43 deg. 42' 25". + +117. The head-waters of the Kennebec, as well as those of the Penobscot, + approach very near to the Chaudiere, which flows into the St. + Lawrence near Quebec. + +118. Casco Bay, which stretches from Cape Small Point to Cape Elizabeth. It + has within it a hundred and thirty-six islands. They anchored and + passed the night somewhere within the limits of this bay, but did not + attempt its exploration. + +119. These were the White Mountains in New Hampshire, towering above the + sea 6,225 feet. They are about sixty miles distant from Casco Bay, and + were observed by all the early voyagers as they sailed along the coast + of Maine. They are referred to on Ribero's Map of 1529 by the Spanish + word _montanas_, and were evidently seen by Estevan Gomez in 1525, + whose discoveries are delineated by this map. They will also be found + on the Mappe-Monde of about the middle of the sixteenth century, and + on Sebastian Cabot's map, 1544, both included in the "Monuments de la + Geographie" of Jomard, and they are also indicated on numerous other + early maps. + +120. This conjecture is not sustained by any evidence beyond the similarity + of the names. There are numerous idle opinions as to the kind of plant + which was so efficacious a remedy for the scurvy, but they are utterly + without foundation. There does not appear to be any means of + determining what the healing plant was. + +121. The four leagues of the previous day added to the eight of this bring + them from the Kennebec to Saco Bay. + +122. The small island "proche de la grande terre" was Stratton Island: they + anchored on the northern side and nearly east of Bluff Island, which + is a quarter of a mile distant. The Indians came down to welcome them + from the promontory long known as Black Point, now called Prout's + Neck. Compare Champlain's local map and the United States Coast Survey + Charts. + +123. Champlain's narrative, together with his sketch or drawing, + illustrating the mouth of the Saco and its environs, compared with the + United States Coast Survey Charts, renders it certain that this was + Richmond Island. Lescarbot describes it as a 'great island, about half + a league in compass, at the entrance of the bay of the said place of + Choueacoet It is about a mile long, and eight hundred yards in its + greatest width.--_Coast Pilot_. It received its present name at a very + early period. It was granted under the title of "a small island, + called Richmond," by the Council for New England to Walter Bagnall, + Dec. 2, 1631.--_Vide Calendar of Eng. State Papers_, Col. 1574-1660, + p. 137. Concerning the death of Bagnall on this island a short time + before the above grant was made, _vide Winthrop's Hist. New Eng._, + ed. 1853, Vol. I. pp. 75, 118. + +124. Lescarbot calls him Olmechin.--_Histoire de la Nouvelle France_, par + M. Lescarbot, Paris, 1612, p. 558. + +125. They had hoped that the wife of Panounias, their Indian guide, who was + said to have been born among the Almouchiquois, would be able to + interpret their language, but in this they appear to have been + disappointed.--_Vide antea_, p. 55. + +126. From the Indian word, M'-foo-ah-koo-et, or, as the French pronounced + it, _Choueacoet_, which had been the name, applied by the aborigines to + this locality we know not how long, is derived the name Saco, now + given to the river and city in the same vicinity. The orthography + given to the original word is various, as Sawocotuck, Sowocatuck, + Sawakquatook, Sockhigones, and Choueacost. The variations in this, as + in other Indian words, may have arisen from a misapprehension of the + sound given by the aborigines, or from ignorance, on the part of + writers, of the proper method of representing sounds, joined to an + utter indifference to a matter which seemed to them of trifling + importance. + +127. _Febues du Bresil_. This is the well-known trailing or bush-bean of + New England, _Phaseolus vulgaris_, called the "Brazilian bean" because + it resembled a bean known in France at that time under that name. It + is sometimes called the kidney-bean. It is indigenous to America. + +128. _Citrouilles_, the common summer squash, _Cucurbita polymorpha_, as + may be seen by reference to Champlain's map of 1612, where its form is + delineated over the inscription, _la forme des sitroules_. It is + indigenous to America. Our word squash is derived from the Indian + _askutasquash_ or _isquoutersquash_. "In summer, when their corne is + spent, Isquoutersquashes is their best bread, a fruit like the young + Pumpion."--_Wood's New England Prospect_, 1634, Prince Society ed., + p. 76. "_Askutasquash_, their Vine aples, which the _English_ from + them call _Squashes_, about the bignesse of Apples, of severall + colours, a sweet, light, wholesome refreshing."--_Roger Williams, + Key_, 1643, Narragansett Club ed., p. 125. + +129. _Courges_, the pumpkin, _Cucurbita maxima_, indigenous to America. As + the pumpkin and likewise the squash were vegetables hitherto unknown + to Champlain, there was no French word by which he could accurately + identify them. The names given to them were such as he thought would + describe them to his countrymen more nearly than any others. Had he + been a botanist, he would probably have given them new names. + +130. _Petum_. Tobacco, _Nicotiana rustica_, sometimes called wild tobacco. + It was a smaller and more hardy species than the _Nicotiana tabacum_, + now cultivated in warmer climates, but had the same qualities though + inferior in strength and aroma. It was found in cultivation by the + Indians all along our coast and in Canada. Cartier observed it growing + in Canada in 1535. Of it he says: "There groweth also a certain kind + of herbe, whereof in Sommer they make a great prouision for all the + yeere, making great account of it, and onely men vse of it, and first + they cause it to be dried in the Sunne, then weare it about their + neckes wrapped in a little beasts skinne made like a little bagge, + with a hollow peece of stone or wood like a pipe; then when they + please they make pouder of it, and then put it in one of the ends of + the said Cornet or pipe, and laying a cole of fire vpon it, at the + other ende sucke so long, that they fill their bodies full of smoke, + till that it commeth out of their mouth and nostrils, euen as out of + the Tonnell of a chimney. They say that this doth keepe them warme and + in health: they neuer goe without some of it about them. We ourselues + haue tryed the same smoke, and hauing put it in our mouthes, it seemed + almost as hot as Pepper."--_Jacques Cartier, 2 Voyage_, 1535; + _Hakluyt_, London, ed. 1810, Vol. III. p. 276. + + We may here remark that the esculents found in cultivation at Saco, + beans, squashes, pumpkins, and corn, as well as the tobacco, are all + American tropical or subtropical plants, and must have been + transmitted from tribe to tribe, from more southern climates. The + Indian traditions would seem to indicate this. "They have a + tradition," says Roger Williams, "that the Crow brought them at first + an _Indian_ Graine of Corne in one Eare, and an _Indian_ or _French_ + Beane in another, from the Great God _Kautantouwit's_ field in the + Southwest from whence they hold came all their Corne and Beanes."-- + _Key to the Language of America_, London, 1643, Narragansett Club ed., + p. 144. + + Seventy years before Champlain, Jacques Cartier had found nearly the + same vegetables cultivated by the Indians in the valley of the + St. Lawrence. He says: "They digge their grounds with certaine peeces + of wood, as bigge as halfe a sword, on which ground groweth their + corne, which they call Ossici; it is as bigge as our small peason.... + They haue also great store of Muske-milions. Pompions, Gourds, + Cucumbers, Peason, and Beanes of euery colour, yet differing from + ours."--_Hakluyt_, Vol. II. p. 276. For a full history of these + plants, the reader is referred to the History of Plants, a learned and + elaborate work now in press, by Charles Pickering, M.D. of Boston. + +131. The latitude of Wood Island at the mouth of the Saco, where they were + at anchor, is 43 deg. 27' 23". + +132. The site of this Indian fortification was a rocky bluff on the western + side of the river, now owned by Mr. John Ward, where from time to time + Indian relics have been found. The island at the mouth of the river, + which Champlain speaks of as a suitable location for a fortress, is + Ram Island, and is low and rocky, and about a hundred and fifty yards + in length. + +133. For Sunday read Tuesday.--_Vide Shurtless's Calendar_. + +134. This landing was probably near Wells Neck, and the meadows which they + saw were the salt marshes of Wells. + +135. The Red-wing Blackbird, _Ageloeus phoeniceus_, of lustrous black, with + the bend of the wing red. They are still abundant in the same + locality, and indeed across the whole continent to the Pacific + Ocean.--_Vide Cones's Key_, Boston, 1872, p. 156; _Baird's Report_, + Washington, 1858, Part II. p. 526. + +136. _Le Port aux Isles_. This Island Harbor is the present Cape Porpoise + Harbor. + +137. This harbor is Goose Fair Bay, from one to two miles north-east of + Cape Porpoise, in the middle of which are two large ledges, "the + dangerous reefs" to which Champlain refers. + +138. This was the common red currant of the gardens, _Ribes rubrum_, which + is a native of America. The fetid currant, _Ribes prostratum_, is also + indigenous to this country. It has a pale red fruit, which gives forth + a very disagreeable odor. Josselyn refers to the currant both in his + Voyages and in his Rarities. Tuckerman found it growing wild in the + White Mountains. + +139. The passenger pigeon, _Ectopistes migratorius_, formerly numerous in + New England. Commonly known as the wild pigeon. Wood says they fly in + flocks of millions of millions.--_New England Prospect_, 1634; Prince + Society ed., p. 31. + +140. Champlain's latitude is less inaccurate than usual. It is not possible + to determine the exact point at which he took it. But the latitude of + Cape Porpoise, according to the Coast Survey Charts, is 43 deg. 21' 43". + +141. Cape Anne. + +142. The point at which Champlain first saw Cape Anne, and "isles assez + hautes," the Isles of Shoals, was east of Little Boar's Head, and + three miles from the shore. Nine years afterward, Captain John Smith + visited these islands, and denominated them on his map of New England + Smith's Isles. They began at a very early date to be called the Isles + of Shoals. "Smith's Isles are a heape together, none neere them, + against Accominticus."--_Smith's Description of New England_. Rouge's + map, 1778, has Isles of Shoals, _ou des Ecoles_. For a full + description and history of these islands, the reader is referred to + "The Isles of Shoals," by John S. Jenness, New York, 1875. + +143. Champlain has not been felicitous in his description of this bay. He + probably means to say that from the point where he then was, off + Little Boar's Head, to the point where it extends farthest into the + land, or to the west, it appeared to be about twelve miles, and that + the depth of the bay appeared to be six miles, and eight at the point + of greatest depth. As he did not explore the bay, it is obvious that + he intended to speak of it only as measured by the eye. No name has + been assigned to this expanse of water on our maps. It washes the + coast of Hampton, Salisbury, Newburyport, Ipswich, and Annisquam. It + might well be called Merrimac Bay, aster the name of the important + river that empties its waters into it, midway between its northern and + southern extremities. + +144. It is to be observed that, starting from Cape Porpoise Harbor on the + morning of the 15th of July, they sailed twelve leagues before the + sail of the night commenced. This would bring them, allowing for the + sinuosities of the shore, to a point between Little Boar's Head and + the Isles of Shoals. In this distance, they had passed the sandy + shores of Wells Beach and York Beach in Maine, and Foss's Beach and + Rye Beach in New Hampshire, and still saw the white Sands of Hampton + and Salisbury Beaches stretching far into the bay on their right. The + excellent harbor of Portsmouth, land-locked by numerous islands, had + been passed unobserved. A sail of eighteen nautical miles brought them + to their anchorage at the extreme point of Cape Anne. + +145. Straitsmouth, Thatcher, and Milk island. They were named by Captain + John Smith the "Three Turks' Heads," in memory of the three Turks' + heads cut off by him at the siege of Caniza, by which he acquired from + Sigismundus, prince of Transylvania, their effigies in his shield for + his arms.--_The true Travels, Adventures, and Observations of Captaine + John Smith_, London, 1629. + +146. What Champlain here calls "le Cap aux Isles," Island Cape, is Cape + Anne, called Cape Tragabigzanda by Captain John Smith, the name of his + mistress, to whom he was given when a prisoner among the Turks. The + name was changed by Prince Charles, afterward Charles I., to Cape + Anne, in honor of his mother, who was Anne of Denmark.--_Vide + Description of New England_ by Capt. John Smith, London, 1616. + +147. This was the bay west of a line drawn from Little Boar's Head to Cape + Anne, which may well be called Merrimac Bay. + +148. Massachusetts Bay. + +149. It is interesting to observe the agreement of the sign-writing of this + savage on the point of Cape Anne with the statement of the historian + Gookin, who in 1656 was superintendent of Indian affairs in + Massachusetts, and who wrote in 1674. He says: "Their chief sachem + held dominion over many other petty governours; as those of + Weechagaskas, Neponsitt, Punkapaog, Nonantam, Nashaway, and some of + the Nipmuck people, as far as Pokomtacuke, as the old men of + Massachusetts affirmed." Here we have the six tribes, represented by + the pebbles, recorded seventy years later as a tradition handed down + by the old men of the tribe. Champlain remarks further on, "I observed + in the bay all that the savages had described to me at Island Cape." + +150. This was the Merrimac with its shoals at the mouth, which they had + passed without observing, having sailed from the offing near Little + Boar's Head directly to the head of Cape Anne, during the darkness of + the previous night. + +151. The latitude of the Straitsmouth Island Light on the extreme point of + Cape Anne is 42 deg. 39' 43". A little east of it, where they probably + anchored, there are now sixteen fathoms of water. + +152. Emmerson's Point, forming the eastern extremity of Cape Anne, twenty + or twenty-five feet high, fringed with a wall of bare rocks on the + sea. + +153. Thatcher's Island, near the point just mentioned. It is nearly half a + mile long and three hundred and fifty yards wide, and about fifty feet + high. + +154. It is not possible to determine with absolute certainty the place of + this anchorage. But as Champlain describes, at the end of this + chapter, what must have been Charles River coming from the country of + the Iroquois or the west, most likely as seen from his anchorage, + there can be little doubt that he anchored in Boston Harbor, near the + western limit of Noddle's Island, now known as East Boston. + +155. The fishermen and fur-traders had visited these coasts from a very + early period.--_Vide antea_, note 18. From them they obtained the axe, + a most important implement in their rude mode of life, and it was + occasionally found in use among tribes far in the interior. + + _La Cadie_. Carelessness or indifference in regard to the orthography + of names was general in the time of Champlain. The volumes written in + the vain attempt to settle the proper method of spelling the name of + Shakespeare, are the fruit of this indifference. La Cadie did not + escape this treatment. Champlain writes it Arcadie, Accadie, La Cadie, + Acadie, and L'Acadie; while Lescarbot uniformly, as far as we have + observed, La Cadie. We have also seen it written L'Arcadie and + L'Accadie, and in some, if not in all the preceding forms, with a + Latin termination in _ia_. It is deemed important to secure + uniformity, and to follow the French form in the translation of a + French work rather than the Latin. In this work, it is rendered LA + CADIE in all cases except in quotations. The history of the name + favors this form rather than any other. The commission or charter + given to De Monts by Henry IV. in 1603, a state paper or legal + document, drawn, we may suppose, with more than usual care, has La + Cadie, and repeats it four times without variation. It is a name of + Indian origin, as may be inferred by its appearing in composition in + such words as Passamacadie, Subenacadie, and Tracadie, plainly derived + from the language spoken by the Souriquois and Etechemins. Fifty-five + years before it was introduced into De Monts's commission, it appeared + written _Larcadia_ in Gastaldo's map of "Terra Nova del Bacalaos," in + the Italian translation of Ptolemy's Geography, by Pietro Andrea + Mattiolo, printed at Venice in 1548. The colophon bears date October, + 1547. This rare work is in the possession of Henry C. Murphy, LL.D., + to whom we are indebted for a very beautiful copy of the map. It + appeared again in 1561 on the map of Ruscelli, which was borrowed, as + well as the whole map, from the above work.--_Vide Ruscelli's map in + Dr. Kohl's Documentary History of Maine_, Maine Hist. Soc., Portland, + 1869, p. 233. On this map, Larcadia stands on the coast of Maine, in + the midst of the vast territory included in De Monts's grant, between + the degrees of forty and forty-six north latitude. It will be + observed, if we take away the Latin termination, that the + pronunciation of this word as it first appeared in 1547, would not + differ in _sound_ from La Cadie. It seems, therefore, very clear that + the name of the territory stretching along the coast of Maine, we know + not how far north or south, as it was caught from the lips of the + natives at some time anterior 1547, was best represented by La Cadie, + as pronounced by the French. Whether De Monts had obtained the name of + his American domain from those who had recently visited the coast and + had caught its sound from the natives, or whether he had taken it from + this ancient map, we must remain uninformed. Several writers have + ventured to interpret the word, and give us its original meaning. The + following definitions have been offered: 1. The land of dogs; 2. Our + village; 3. The fish called pollock; 4. Place; 5. Abundance. We do not + undertake to decide between the disagreeing doctors. But it is obvious + to remark that a rich field lies open ready for a noble harvest for + any young scholar who has a genius for philology, and who is prepared + to make a life work of the study and elucidation of the original + languages of North America. The laurels in this field are still to be + gathered. + +156. The islands in Boston Bay. + +157. This attempt to land was in Marshfield near the mouth of South River. + Not succeeding, they sailed forward a league, and anchored at Brant + Point, which they named the Cape of St. Louis. + +158. This purslane, _Portulaca oleracea_, still grows vigorously among the + Indian corn in New England, and is regarded with no more interest now + than in 1605. It is a tropical plant, and was introduced by the + Indians probably by accident with the seeds of tobacco or other + plants. + +159. Here at the end of the chapter Champlain seems to be reminded that he + had omitted to mention the river of which he had learned, and had + probably seen in the bay. This was Charles River. From the western + side of Noddle's Island, or East Boston, where they were probably at + anchor, it appeared at its confluence with the Mystic River to come + from the west, or the country of the Iroquois. By reference to + Champlain's large map of 1612, this river will be clearly identified + as Charles River, in connection with Boston Bay and its numerous + islands. On that map it is represented as a long river flowing from + the west. This description of the river by Champlain was probably from + personal observation. Had he obtained his information from the + Indians, they would not have told him that it was broad or that it + came from the west, for such are not the facts; but they would have + represented to him that it was small, winding in its course, and that + it came from the south. We infer, therefore, that he not only saw it + himself, but probably from the deck of the little French barque, as it + was riding at anchor in our harbor near East Boston, where Charles + River, augmented by the tide, flows into the harbor from the west, in + a strong, broad, deep current. They named it in honor of Pierre du + Guast, Sieur de Monts, the commander of this expedition. Champlain + writes the name "du Gas;" De Laet has "de Gua;" while Charlevoix + writes "du Guast." This latter orthography generally prevails. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +CONTINUATION OF THE DISCOVERIES ALONG THE COAST OF THE ALMOUCHIQUOIS, AND +WHAT WE OBSERVED IN DETAIL. + + +The next day we doubled Cap St. Louis, [160] so named by Sieur de Monts, a +land rather low, and in latitude 42 deg. 45'. [161] The same day we sailed two +leagues along a sandy coast, as we passed along which we saw a great many +cabins and gardens. The wind being contrary, we entered a little bay to +await a time favorable for proceeding. There came to us two or three +canoes, which had just been fishing for cod and other fish, which are found +there in large numbers. These they catch with hooks made of a piece of +wood, to which they attach a bone in the shape of a spear, and fasten it +very securely. The whole has a fang-shape, and the line attached to it is +made out of the bark of a tree. They gave me one of their hooks, which I +took as a curiosity. In it the bone was fastened on by hemp, like that in +France, as it seemed to me, and they told me that they gathered this plant +without being obliged to cultivate it; and indicated that it grew to the +height of four or five feet. [162] This canoe went back on shore to give +notice to their fellow inhabitants, who caused columns of smoke to arise on +our account We saw eighteen or twenty savages, who came to the shore and +began to dance. Our canoe landed in order to give them some bagatelles, at +which they were greatly pleased. Some of them came to us and begged us to +go to their river. We weighed anchor to do so, but were unable to enter on +account of the small amount of water, it being low tide, and were +accordingly obliged to anchor at the mouth. I went ashore, where I saw many +others, who received us very cordially. I made also an examination of the +river, but saw only an arm of water extending a short distance inland, +where the land is only in part cleared up. Running into this is merely a +brook not deep enough for boats except at full tide. The circuit of the bay +is about a league. On one side of the entrance to this bay there is a point +which is almost an island, covered with wood, principally pines, and +adjoins sand-banks, which are very extensive. On the other side, the land +is high. There are two islets in this bay, which are not seen until one +has entered, and around which it is almost entirely dry at low tide. This +place is very conspicuous from the sea, for the coast is very low, +excepting the cape at the entrance to the bay. We named it the Port du Cap +St. Louis, [163] distant two leagues from the above cape, and ten from the +Island Cape. It is in about the same latitude as Cap St. Louis. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +PORT ST. LOUIS. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. Indicates the place where vessels lie. +_B_. The channel. +_C_. Two islands. [Note: Clark's Island is now the sole representative of + the two figured by Champlain in 1605. The action of the waves has + either united the two, or swept one of them away. It was named after + Clark, the master's mate of the "May Flower," who was the first to + step on shore, when the party of Pilgrims, sent out from Cape Cod + Harbor to Select a habitation, landed on this island, and passed the + night of the 9th of December, O. S. 1620. _Vide_ Morton's Memorial, + 1669, Plymouth Ed. 1826. p. 35: Young's Chronicles, p. 160; Bradford's + His. Plym. Plantation, p. 87. This delineation removes all doubt as to + the missing island in Plymouth Harbor, and shows the incorrectness of + the theory as to its being Saquish Head, suggested in a note in + Young's Chronicles, p. 64. _Vide_ also Mourt's Relation, Dexter's ed., + note 197.] +_D_. Sandy downs. [Note: Saquish Neck] +_E_. Shoals. +_F_. Cabins where the savages till the ground. +_G_. Place where we beached our barque. +_H_. Land having the appearance of an island, covered with wood and + adjoining the sandy downs. [Note: Saquish Head, which seems to have + been somewhat changed since the time of Champlain. Compare Coast + Survey Chart of Plymouth Harbor, 1857.] +_I_. A high promontory which may be seen four or five leagues at + sea. [Note: Manomet Bluff.] + + * * * * * + +On the 19th of the month, we set out from this place. Coasting along in a +southerly direction, we sailed four or five leagues, and passed near a rock +on a level with the surface of the water. As we continued our course, we +saw some land which seemed to us to be islands, but as we came nearer we +found it to be the main land, lying to the north-north-west of us, and that +it was the cape of a large bay, [164] containing more than eighteen or +nineteen leagues in circuit, into which we had run so far that we had to +wear off on the other tack in order to double the cape which we had +seen. The latter we named Cap Blanc, [165] since it contained sands and +downs which had a white appearance. A favorable wind was of great +assistance to us here, for otherwise we should have been in danger of being +driven upon the coast. This bay is very safe, provided the land be not +approached nearer than a good league, there being no islands nor rocks +except that just mentioned, which is near a river that extends some +distance inland, which we named St. Suzanne du Cap Blanc, [166] whence +across to Cap St. Louis the distance is ten leagues. Cap Blanc is a point +of sand, which bends around towards the south some six leagues. This coast +is rather high, and consists of sand, which is very conspicuous as one +comes from the Sea. At a distance of some fifteen or eighteen leagues from +land, the depth of the water is thirty, forty, and fifty fathoms, but only +ten on nearing the shore, which is unobstructed. There is a large extent +of open country along the shore before reaching the woods, which are very +attractive and beautiful. We anchored off the coast, and saw some savages, +towards whom four of our company proceeded. Making their way upon a +sand-bank, they observed something like a bay, and cabins bordering it on +all sides. When they were about a league and a half from us, there came to +them a savage dancing all over, as they expressed it. He had come down from +the high shore, but turned about shortly after to inform his fellow +inhabitants of our arrival. + +The next day, the 20th of the month, we went to the place which our men had +seen, and which we found a very dangerous harbor in consequence of the +shoals and banks, where we saw breakers in all directions. It was almost +low tide when we entered, and there were only four feet of water in the +northern passage; at high tide, there are two fathoms. After we had +entered, we found the place very spacious, being perhaps three or four +leagues in circuit, entirely surrounded by little houses, around each one +of which there was as much land as the occupant needed for his support. A +small river enters here, which is very pretty, and in which at low tide +there are some three and a half feet of water. There are also two or three +brooks bordered by meadows. It would be a very fine place, if the harbor +were good. I took the altitude, and found the latitude 42 deg., and the +deflection of the magnetic needle 18 deg. 40'. Many savages, men and women, +visited us, and ran up on all sides dancing. We named this place Port de +Mallebarre. [167] + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +MALLEBARRE. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. The two entrances to the harbor. +_B_. Sandy downs where the savages killed a sailor belonging to the barque + of Sieur de Monts. +_C_. Places in the harbor where the barque of Sieur de Monts was. +_D_. Spring on the shore of the harbor. +_E_. A river flowing into the harbor. +_F_. A brook. +_G_. A small river where quantities of fish are caught. +_H_. Sandy downs with low shrubs and many vines. +_I_. Island at the point of the downs. +_L_. Houses and dwelling-places of the savages that till the land. +_M_. Shoals and sand-banks at the entrance and inside of the harbor. +_O_. Sandy downs. +_P_. Sea-coast, +_q_. Barque of Sieur de Poutrincourt when he visited the place two years + after Sieur de Monts. +_R_. Landing of the party of Sieur de Poutrincourt. + +NOTES. A comparison of this map with the Coast Survey Charts will show very +great changes in this harbor since the days of Champlain. Not only has the +mouth of the bay receded towards the south, but this recession appears to +have left entirely dry much of the area which was flooded in 1605. Under +reference _q_, on the above map, it is intimated that De Poutrincourt's +visit was two years after that of De Monts. It was more than one, and was +the second year after, but not, strictly speaking, "two years after." + + * * * * * + +The next day, the 21st of the month, Sieur de Monts determined to go and +see their habitation. Nine or ten of us accompanied him with our arms; the +rest remained to guard the barque. We went about a league along the coast. +Before reaching their cabins, we entered a field planted with Indian corn +in the manner before described. The corn was in flower, and five and a half +feet high. There was some less advanced, which they plant later. We saw +many Brazilian beans, and many squashes of various sizes, very good for +eating; some tobacco, and roots which they cultivate, the latter having the +taste of an artichoke. The woods are filled with oaks, nut-trees, and +beautiful cypresses, [168] which are of a reddish color and have a very +pleasant odor. There were also several fields entirely uncultivated, the +land being allowed to remain fallow. When they wish to plant it, they set +fire to the weeds, and then work it over with their wooden spades. Their +cabins are round, and covered with heavy thatch made of reeds. In the roof +there is an opening of about a foot and a half, whence the smoke from the +fire passes out. We asked them if they had their permanent abode in this +place, and whether there was much snow. But we were unable to ascertain +this fully from them, not understanding their language, although they made +an attempt to inform us by signs, by taking some sand in their hands. +Spreading it out over the ground, and indicating that it was of the color +of our collars, and that it reached the depth of a foot. Others made signs +that there was less, and gave us to understand also that the harbor never +froze; but we were unable to ascertain whether the snow lasted long. I +conclude, however, that this region is of moderate temperature, and the +winter not severe. While we were there, there was a north-cast storm, which +lasted four days; the sky being so overcast that the sun hardly shone at +all. It was very cold, and we were obliged to put on our great-coats, which +we had entirely left off. Yet I think the cold was accidental, as it is +often experienced elsewhere out of season. + +On the 23d of July, four or five seamen having gone on shore with some +kettles to get fresh water, which was to be found in one of the sand-banks +a short distance from our barque, some of the savages, coveting them, +watched the time when our men went to the spring, and then seized one out +of the hands of a sailor, who was the first to dip, and who had no +weapons. One of his companions, starting to run after him, soon returned, +as he could not catch him, since he ran much faster than himself. The other +savages, of whom there were a large number, seeing our sailors running to +our barque, and at the same time shouting to us to fire at them, took to +flight. At the time there were some of them in our barque, who threw +themselves into the sea, only one of whom we were able to seize. Those on +the land who had taken to flight, seeing them swimming, returned straight +to the sailor from whom they had taken away the kettle, hurled several +arrows at him from behind, and brought him down. Seeing this, they ran at +once to him, and despatched him with their knives. Meanwhile, haste was +made to go on shore, and muskets were fired from our barque: mine, bursting +in my hands, came near killing me. The savages, hearing this discharge of +fire-arms, took to flight, and with redoubled speed when they saw that we +had landed, for they were afraid when they saw us running after them. There +was no likelihood of our catching them, for they are as swift as horses. +We brought in the murdered man, and he was buried some hours later. +Meanwhile, we kept the prisoner bound by the feet and hands on board of our +barque, fearing that he might escape. But Sieur de Monts resolved to let +him go, being persuaded that he was not to blame, and that he had no +previous knowledge of what had transpired, as also those who, at the time, +were in and about our barque. Some hours later there came some savages to +us, to excuse themselves, indicating by signs and demonstrations that it +was not they who had committed this malicious act, but others farther off +in the interior. We did not wish to harm them, although it was in our power +to avenge ourselves. + +All these savages from the Island Cape wear neither robes nor furs, except +very rarely: moreover, their robes are made of grasses and hemp, scarcely +covering the body, and coming down only to their thighs. They have only the +sexual parts concealed with a small piece of leather; so likewise the +women, with whom it comes down a little lower behind than with the men, all +the rest of the body being naked. Whenever the women came to see us, they +wore robes which were open in front. The men cut off the hair on the top of +the head like those at the river Choueacoet. I saw, among other things, a +girl with her hair very neatly dressed, with a skin colored red, and +bordered on the upper part with little shell-beads. A part of her hair +hung down behind, the rest being braided in various ways. These people +paint the face red, black, and yellow. They have scarcely any beard, and +tear it out as fast as it grows. Their bodies are well-proportioned. I +cannot tell what government they have, but I think that in this respect +they resemble their neighbors, who have none at all. They know not how to +worship or pray; yet, like the other savages, they have some superstitions, +which I shall describe in their place. As for weapons, they have only +pikes, clubs, bows and arrows. It would seem from their appearance that +they have a good disposition, better than those of the north, but they are +all in fact of no great worth. Even a slight intercourse with them gives +you at once a knowledge of them. They are great thieves and, if they cannot +lay hold of any thing with their hands, they try to do so with their feet, +as we have oftentimes learned by experience. I am of opinion that, if they +had any thing to exchange with us, they would not give themselves to +thieving. They bartered away to us their bows, arrows, and quivers, for +pins and buttons; and if they had had any thing else better they would have +done the same with it. It is necessary to be on one's guard against this +people, and live in a state of distrust of them, yet without letting them +perceive it. They gave us a large quantity of tobacco, which they dry and +then reduce to powder. [169] When they eat Indian corn, they boil it in +earthen pots, which they make in a way different from ours. [170]. They +bray it also in wooden mortars and reduce it to flour, of which they then +make cakes, like the Indians of Peru. + +In this place and along the whole coast from Quinibequy, there are a great +many _siguenocs_, [171] which is a fish with a shell on its back like the +tortoise, yet different, there being in the middle a row of little +prickles, of the color of a dead leaf, like the rest of the fish. At the +end of this shell, there is another still smaller, bordered by very sharp +points. The length of the tail-varies according to their size. With the end +of it, these people point their arrows, and it contains also a row of +prickles like the large shell in which are the eyes. There are eight small +feet like those of the crab, and two behind longer and flatter, which they +use in swimming. There are also in front two other very small ones with +which they eat. When walking, all the feet are concealed excepting the two +hindermost which are slightly visible. Under the small shell there are +membranes which swell up, and beat like the throat of a frog, and rest upon +each other like the folds of a waistcoat. The largest specimen of this fish +that I saw was a foot broad, and a foot and a half long. + +We saw also a sea-bird [172] with a black beak, the upper part slightly +aquiline, four inches long and in the form of a lancet; namely, the lower +part representing the handle and the upper the blade, which is thin, sharp +on both sides, and shorter by a third than the other, which circumference +is a matter of astonishment to many persons, who cannot comprehend how it +is possible for this bird to eat with such a beak. It is of the size of a +pigeon, the wings being very long in proportion to the body, the tail +short, as also the legs, which are red; the feet being small and flat. The +plumage on the upper part is gray-brown, and on the under part pure white. +They go always in flocks along the sea-shore, like the pigeons with us. + +The savages, along all these coasts where we have been, say that other +birds, which are very large, come along when their corn is ripe. They +imitated for us their cry, which resembles that of the turkey. They showed +us their feathers in several places, with which they feather their arrows, +and which they put on their heads for decoration; and also a kind of hair +which they have under the throat like those we have in France, and they say +that a red crest falls over upon the beak. According to their description, +they are as large as a bustard, which is a kind of goose, having the neck +longer and twice as large as those with us. All these indications led us to +conclude that they were turkeys. [173] We should have been very glad to +see some of these birds, as well as their feathers, for the sake of greater +certainty. Before seeing their feathers, and the little bunch of hair which +they have under the throat, and hearing their cry imitated, I should have +thought that they were certain birds like turkeys, which are found in some +places in Peru, along the sea-shore, eating carrion and other dead things +like crows. But these are not so large; nor do they have so long a bill, or +a cry like that of real turkeys; nor are they good to eat like those which +the Indians say come in flocks in summer, and at the beginning of winter go +away to warmer countries, their natural dwelling-place. + +ENDNOTES: + +160. It will be observed that, after doubling this cape, they sailed two + leagues, and then entered Plymouth Harbor, and consequently this cape + must have been what is now known as Brant Point. + +161. The latitude is 42 deg. 5'. + +162. This was plainly our Indian hemp, _Asclepias incarnata_. "The fibres + of the bark are strong, and capable of being wrought into a fine soft + thread; but it is very difficult to separate the bark from the stalk. + It is said to have been used by the Indians for bow-strings."--_Vide + Cutler in Memoirs of the American Academy_, Vol. I. p. 424. It is the + Swamp Milkweed of Gray, and grows in wet grounds. One variety is + common in New England. The Pilgrims found at Plymouth "an excellent + strong kind of Flaxe and Hempe"--_Vide Mourt's Relation_, Dexter's + ed. p. 62. + +163. _Port du Cap St. Louis_. From the plain, the map in his edition of + 1613, drawing of this Harbor left by Champlain, and also that of the + edition of 1632, it is plain that the "Port du Cap St. Louis" is + Plymouth Harbor, where anchored the "Mayflower" a little more than + fifteen years later than this, freighted with the first permanent + English colony established in New England, commonly known as the + Pilgrims. The Indian name of the harbor, according to Captain John + Smith, who visited it in 1614. was Accomack. He gave it, by direction + of Prince Charles, the name of Plymouth. More recent investigations + point to this harbor as the one visited by Martin Pring in 1603.-- + _Vide Paper by the Rev Benj. F. De Costa, before the New England + His. Gen. Society_, Nov. 7, 1877, New England His. and Gen. Register, + Vol. XXXII. p. 79. + + The interview of the French with the natives was brief, but courteous + and friendly on both sides. The English visits were interrupted by + more or less hostility. "When Pring was about ready to leave, the + Indians became hostile and set the woods on fire, and he saw it burn + 'for a mile space.'"--_De Costa_. A skirmish of some seriousness + occurred with Smith's party. "After much kindnesse upon a small + occasion, wee fought also with fortie or fiftie of those: though some + were hurt, and some slaine, yet within an hour after they became + friends."--_Smith's New England_, Boston, ed. 1865, p. 45. + +164. Cape Cod Bay. + +165. They named it "le Cap Blanc," the White Cape, from its white + appearance, while Bartholomew Gosnold, three years before, had named + it Cape Cod from the multitude of codfish near its shores. Captain + John Smith called it Cape James. All the early navigators who passed + along our Atlantic coast seem to have seen the headland of Cape + Cod. It is well defined on Juan de la Cosa's map of 1500, although no + name is given to it. On Ribero's map of 1529 it is called _C. de + arenas_. On the map of Nic. Vallard de Dieppe of 1543, it is called + _C. de Croix_. + +166. Wellfleet Harbor. It may be observed that a little farther back + Champlain says that, having sailed along in a southerly direction four + or five leagues, they were at a place where there was a "rock on a + level with the surface of the water," and that they saw lying + north-north-west of them Cap Blanc, that is, Cape Cod; he now says + that the "rock" is near a river, which they named St. Suzanne du Cap + Blanc, and that from it to Cap St. Louis the distance is ten + leagues. Now, as the distance across to Brant Point, or Cap St. Louis, + from Wellfleet Harbor, is ten leagues, and as Cap Blanc or Cape Cod is + north-northwest of it, it is plain that Wellfleet Harbor or Herring + River, which flows into it, was the river which they named St. Suzanne + du Cap Blanc, and that the "rock on a level with the water" was one of + the several to be found near the entrance of Wellfleet Bay. It may + have been the noted Bay Rock or Blue Rock. + +167. _Port de Mallebarre_, Nauset Harbor, in latitude 41 deg. 48'. By comparing + Champlain's map of the harbor, it will be seen that important changes + have taken place since 1605. The entrance has receded a mile or more + towards the south, and this has apparently changed its interior + channel, and the whole form of the bay. The name itself has drifted + away with the sands, and feebly clings to the extremity of Monomoy + Point at the heel of the Cape. + +168. Not strictly a cypress, but rather a juniper, the Savin, or red cedar, + _Juniparus Virginiana_, a tree of exclusively American origin; and + consequently it could not be truly characterized by any name then + known to Champlain. + +169. The method of preparing tobacco here for smoking was probably not + different from that of the Indian tribes in Canada. Among the Huron + antiquities in the Museum at the University Laval are pipes which were + found already filled with tobacco, so prepared as to resemble our + fine-cut tobacco.--_Vide Laverdiere in loco_. + +170. The following description of the Indian pottery, and the method of its + manufacture by their women, as quoted by Laverdiere from Sagard's + History of Canada, who wrote in 1636, will be interesting to the + antiquary, and will illustrate what Champlain means by "a way + different from ours:"-- + + "They are skilful in making good earthen pots, which they harden very + well on the hearth, and which are so strong that they do not, like our + own, break over the fire when having no water in them. But they cannot + sustain dampness nor cold water so long as our own, since they become + brittle and break at the least shock given them; otherwise they last + very well. The savages make them by taking some earth of the right + kind, which they clean and knead well in their hands, mixing with it, + on what principle I know not, a small quantity of grease. Then making + the mass into the shape of a ball, they make an indentation in the + middle of it with the fist, which they make continually larger by + striking repeatedly on the outside with a little wooden paddle as much + as is necessary to complete it. These vessels are of different sizes, + without feet or handles, completely round like a ball, excepting the + mouth, which projects a little." + +171. This crustacean, _Limulus polyphemus_, is still seen on the strands of + New England. They are found in great abundance in more southern + waters: on the shores of Long Island and New Jersey, they are + collected in boat-loads and made useful for fertilizing purposes. + Champlain has left a drawing of it on his large map. It is vulgarly + known as the king-crab, or horse-foot; to the latter it bears a + striking similarity. This very accurate description of Champlain was + copied by De Laet into his elaborate work "Novvs Orbis," published in + 1633, accompanied by an excellent wood-engraving. This species is + peculiar to our Atlantic waters, and naturally at that time attracted + the attention of Europeans, who had not seen it before. + +172. The Black skimmer or Cut-water, _Rhynchops nigra_. It appears to be + distinct from, but closely related to, the Terns. This bird is here + described with general accuracy. According to Dr. Coues, it belongs + more particularly to the South Atlantic and Gulf States, where it is + very abundant; it is frequent in the Middle States, and only + occasionally seen in New England. The wings are exceedingly long; they + fly in close flocks, moving simultaneously. They seem to feed as they + skim low over the water, the under-mandible grazing or cutting the + surface, and thus taking in their food.--_Vide Coues's Key to North + American Birds_, Boston, 1872, p. 324. + + Whether Champlain saw this bird as a "stray" on the shores of Cape + Cod, or whether it has since ceased to come in large numbers as far + north as formerly, offers an interesting inquiry for the + ornithologists. Specimens may be seen in the Museum of the Boston + Society of Natural History. + +173. Champlain was clearly correct in his conclusion. The wild Turkey, + _Meleagris gallopavo_, was not uncommon in New England at that + period. Wood and Josselyn and Higginson, all speak of it fully:-- + + "Of these, sometimes there will be forty, threescore and a hundred of + a flocke; sometimes more, and sometimes lesse; their feeding is + Acornes, Hawes, and Berries; some of them get a haunt to frequent our + _English_ corne: In winter, when the snow covers the ground, they + resort to the Sea shore to look for Shrimps, and such small Fishes at + low tides. Such as love Turkie hunting, most follow it in winter after + a new-falne Snow, when hee may followe them by their tracts; some have + killed ten or a dozen in half a day; if they can be found towards an + evening and watched where they peirch, if one come about ten or eleven + of the clock, he may shoote as often as he will, they will sit, + unlesse they be slenderly wounded. These Turkies remaine all the yeare + long, the price of a good Turkey cocke is foure shillings; and he is + well worth it for he may be in weight forty pound: a Hen, two + shillings."--_Wood's New England Prospect_, 1634, Prince Society ed., + Boston, p. 32. + + "The _Turkie_, who is blacker than ours; I haue heard several credible + persons affirm, they haue seen _Turkie Cocks_ that have weighed forty, + yea sixty pound; but out of my personal experimental knowledge I can + assure you, that I haue eaten my share of a _Turkie Cock_, that when + he was pull'd and garbidg'd, weighed thirty [9] pound; and I haue also + seen threescore broods of young _Turkies_ on the side of a marsh, + sunning themselves in a morning betimes, but this was thirty years + since, the _English_ and the _Indians_ having now destroyed the breed, + so that 'tis very rare to meet with a wild _Turkie_ in the Woods: But + some of the _English_ bring up great store of the wild kind, which + remain about their Houses as tame as ours in _England_."--_New + England's Rarities_, by John Josselyn, Gent., London, 1672, + Tuckerman's ed., pp. 41, 42. + + "Here are likewise abundance of Turkies often killed in the Woods, + farre greater then our English Turkies, and exceeding fat, sweet, and + fleshy, for here they haue aboundance of feeding all the yeere long, + as Strawberriees, in Summer at places are full of them and all manner + of Berries and Fruits."--_New England Plantation_, by Francis + Higginson, London, 1630. _Vide_ also _Bradford's Hist. Plym. + Plantation_, 1646, Deane's ed., Boston, 1856. p. 105. + + It appears to be the opinion among recent ornithologists that the + species of turkey, thus early found in New England, was the _Meleagris + Americana_, long since extirpated, and not identical with our + domesticated bird. Our domestic turkey is supposed to have originated + in the West Indies or in Mexico, and to have been transplanted as + tamed to other parts of this continent, and to Europe, and named by + Linnaeus. _Meleagris gallopavo_.--_Vide Report on the Zoology of + Pacific Railroad Routes_, by Baird, Washington, 1858. Vol. IX. Part + II. pp. 613-618; _Coues's Key_, Boston, 1872, pp. 231, 232. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +RETURN FROM THE DISCOVERIES ALONG THE COAST OF THE ALMOUCHIQUOIS. + + +We had spent more than five weeks in going over three degrees of latitude, +and our voyage was limited to six, since we had not taken provisions for a +longer time. In consequence of fogs and storms, we had not been able to go +farther than Mallebarre, where we waited several days for fair weather, in +order to sail. Finding ourselves accordingly pressed by the scantiness of +provisions, Sieur de Monts determined to return to the Island of St. Croix, +in order to find another place more favorable for our settlement, as we had +not been able to do on any of the coasts which we had explored on this +voyage. + +Accordingly, on the 25th of July, we set out from this harbor, in order to +make observations elsewhere. In going out, we came near being lost on the +bar at the entrance, from the mistake of our pilots, Cramolet and +Champdore, masters of the barque, who had imperfectly marked out the +entrance of the channel on the southern side, where we were to go. Having +escaped this danger, we headed north-east [174] for six leagues, until we +reached Cap Blanc, sailing on from there to Island Cape, a distance of +fifteen leagues, with the same wind. Then we headed east-north-east sixteen +leagues, as far as Choueacoet, where we saw the savage chief, Marchin, [175] +whom we had expected to see at the Lake Quinibequy. He had the reputation +of being one of the valiant ones of his people. He had a fine appearance: +all his motions were dignified, savage as he was. Sieur de Monts gave him +many presents, with which he was greatly pleased; and, in return, Marchin +gave him a young Etechemin boy, whom he had captured in war, and whom we +took away with us; and thus we set out, mutually good friends. We headed +north-east a quarter east for fifteen leagues, as far as Quinibequy, where +we arrived on the 29th of the month, and where we were expecting to find a +savage, named Sasinou, of whom I spoke before. Thinking that he would come, +we waited some time for him, in order to recover from him an Etechemin +young man and girl, whom he was holding as prisoners. While waiting, there +came to us a captain called Anassou, who trafficked a little in furs, and +with whom we made an alliance. He told us that there was a ship, ten +leagues off the harbor, which was engaged in fishing, and that those on her +had killed five savages of this river, under cover of friendship. From his +description of the men on the vessel, we concluded that they were English, +and we named the island where they were La Nef; [176] for, at a distance, +it had the appearance of a ship. Finding that the above-mentioned Sasinou +did not come, we headed east-south-east, [176-1/2] for twenty leagues, to +Isle Haute, where we anchored for the night. + +On the next day, the 1st of August, we sailed east some twenty leagues to +Cap Corneille, [177] where we spent the night. On the 2d of the month, we +sailed north-east seven leagues to the mouth of the river St. Croix, on the +western shore. Having anchored between the two first islands, [178] Sieur +de Monts embarked in a canoe, at a distance of six leagues from the +settlement of St. Croix, where we arrived the next day with our barque. We +found there Sieur des Antons of St. Malo, who had come in one of the +vessels of Sieur de Monts, to bring provisions and also other supplies for +those who were to winter in this country. + +ENDNOTES: + +174. Champlain is in error as to the longitude of Mallebarre, or Nauset + harbor, from which they took their departure on the 25th of July, + 1605. This port is about 38' east of Island Cape, or Cape Anne, and + about 16' east of the western point of Cap Blanc, or Cape Cod; and, to + reach their destination, they must have sailed north-west, and not + north-east, as he erroneously states. + +175. They had failed to meet him at the lake in the Kennebec; namely, + Merrymeeting Bay.--_Vide antea_, p. 60. + +176. The island which they thus named _La Nef_, the Ship, was Monhegan, + about twenty-five nautical miles east from the mouth of the Kennebec, + a mile and a third long, with an elevation at its highest point of a + hundred and forty feet above the level of the sea, and in latitude 43º + 45' 52". Champlain's conjecture as to the nationality of the ship was + correct. It was the "Archangel," commanded by the celebrated explorer, + Captain George Weymouth, who under the patronage of the Earl of + Southampton came to explore our Atlantic coast in the spring of 1605, + for the purpose of selecting a site for an English colony. He anchored + near Monhegan on the 28th of May, N. S.; and, after spending nearly a + month in reconnoitring the islands and mainland in the vicinity, and + capturing five of the natives, he took his departure for England on + the 26th of June. On the 5th of July, just 9 days after Weymouth left + the coast, De Monts and Champlain entered with their little barque the + mouth of the Kennebec. They do not appear to have seen at that time + any of the natives at or about the mouth of the river; and it is not + unlikely that, on account of the seizure and, as they supposed, the + murder of their comrades by Weymouth, they had retired farther up the + river for greater safety. On the return, however, of the French from + Cape Cod, on the 29th of July, Anassou gave them, as stated in the + text, a friendly reception, and related the story of the seizure of + his friends. + + To prevent the interference of other nations, it was the policy of + Weymouth and his patron not to disclose the locality of the region he + had explored; and consequently Rosier, the narrator of the voyage, so + skilfully withheld whatever might clearly identify the place, and + couched his descriptions in such indefinite language, that there has + been and is now a great diversity of opinion on the subject among + local historians. It was the opinion of the Rev. Thomas Prince that + Weymouth explored the Kennebec, or Sagadahoc, and with him coincide + Mr. John McKeen and the Rev. Dr. Ballard, of Brunswick. The + Rev. Dr. Belknap, after satisfactory examinations, decided that it was + the Penobscot; and he is followed by Mr. William Willis, late + President of the Maine Historical Society. Mr. George Prince, of Bath, + has published an elaborate paper to prove that it was St. George's + River; and Mr. David Cushman, of Warren, coincides in this view. Other + writers, not entering into the discussion at length, accept one or + another of the theories above mentioned. It does not fall within the + purview of our present purpose to enter upon the discussion of this + subject. But the statement in the text, not referred to by any of the + above-mentioned writers, "that those on her had killed five savages + _of this river," que ceux de dedans avoient tue cinq sauuages d'icelle + riviere_, can hardly fail to have weight in the decision of this + interesting question. + + The chief Anassou reported that they were "killed," a natural + inference under the circumstances; but in fact they were carefully + concealed in the hold of the ship, and three of them, having been + transported to England and introduced into his family, imparted much + important information to Sir Ferdinando Gorges, whose distinguished + career was afterward so intimately connected with the progress of + American colonization. For the discussion touching the river explored + by Weymouth, _vide Prince's Annals_, 1736, _in loco; Belknap's + American Biography_, 1794, Vol. II., art. Weymouth; _Remarks on the + Voyage of George Waymouth_, by John McKeen, Col. Me. His. Society, + Vol. V. p. 309; _Comments on Waymouth's Voyage_, by William Willis, + idem, p. 344; _Voyage of Captain George Weymouth_, by George Prince, + Col. Me. His. Soc., Vol. VI. p. 293; _Weymouth's Voyage_, by David + Cushman, _idem_, p. 369; _George Weymouth and the Kennebec_, by the + Rev. Edward Ballard, D. D., Memorial Volume of the Popham Celebration, + Portland, 1863, p. 301. + +176-1/2. _We headed east south-east_. It is possible that, on leaving the + mouth of the Kennebec, they sailed for a short distance to the + south-east; but the general course was to the north-east. + +177. _Cap Corneille_, or Crow Cape, was apparently the point of land + advancing out between Machias and Little Machias Bays, including + perhaps Cross Island. De Monts and his party probably anchored and + passed the night in Machias Bay. The position of Cap Corneille may be + satisfactorily fixed by its distance and direction from the Grand + Manan, as seen on Champlain's map of 1612, to which the reader is + referred. + +178. This anchorage was between Campobello and Moose Island, on which is + situated the town of Eastport. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +THE DWELLING-PLACE ON THE ISLAND OF ST. CROIX TRANSFERRED TO PORT ROYAL, +AND THE REASON WHY. + + +Sieur De Monts determined to change his location, and make another +settlement, in order to avoid the severe cold and the bad winter which we +had had in the Island of St. Croix. As we had not, up to that time, found +any suitable harbor, and, in view of the short time we had for building +houses in which to establish ourselves, we fitted out two barques, and +loaded them with the frame-work taken from the houses of St. Croix, in +order to transport it to Port Royal, twenty-five leagues distant, where we +thought the climate was much more temperate and agreeable. Pont Grave and I +set out for that place; and, having arrived, we looked for a site favorable +for our residence, under shelter from the north-west wind, which we +dreaded, having been very much harassed by it. + +After searching carefully in all directions, we found no place more +suitable and better situated than one slightly elevated, about which there +are some marshes and good springs of water. This place is opposite the +island at the mouth of the river Equille. [179] To the north of us about a +league, there is a range of mountains, [180] extending nearly ten leagues +in a north-east and south-west direction. The whole country is filled with +thick forests, as I mentioned above, except at a point a league and a half +up the river, where there are some oaks, although scattering, and many wild +vines, which one could easily remove and put the soil under cultivation, +notwithstanding it is light and sandy. We had almost resolved to build +there; but the consideration that we should have been too far up the harbor +and river led us to change our mind. + +Recognizing accordingly the site of our habitation as a good one, we began +to clear up the ground, which was full of trees, and to erect houses as +soon as possible. Each one was busy in this work. After every thing had +been arranged, and the majority of the dwellings built, Sieur de Monts +determined to return to France, in order to petition his Majesty to grant +him all that might be necessary for his undertaking. He had desired to +leave Sieur d'Orville to command in this place in his absence. But the +climatic malady, _mal de la terre_, with which he was afflicted would not +allow him to gratify the wish of Sieur de Monts. On this account, a +conference was held with Pont Grave on the subject, to whom this charge was +offered, which he was happy to accept; and he finished what little of the +habitation remained to be built. I, at the same time, hoping to have an +opportunity to make some new explorations towards Florida, determined to +stay there also, of which Sieur de Monts approved. + +ENDNOTES: + +179. In the original, Champlain has written the name of this river in this + particular instance _Guille_, probably an abbreviation for _Anguille_, + the French name of the fish which we call the eel. Lescarbot says the + "river was named _L'Equille_ because the first fish taken therein was + an _equille_."--Vide antea, note 57. + +180. The elevation of this range varies from six hundred to seven hundred + feet. + + + + +CHAPTER XI + +WHAT TOOK PLACE AFTER THE DEPARTURE OF SIEUR DE MONTS, UNTIL, NO TIDINGS OF +WHAT HE HAD PROMISED BEING RECEIVED, WE DEPARTED FROM PORT ROYAL TO RETURN +TO FRANCE. + + +As soon as Sieur de Monts had departed, a portion of the forty or +forty-five who remained began to make gardens. I, also, for the sake of +occupying my time, made one, which was surrounded with ditches full of +water, in which I placed some fine trout, and into which flowed three +brooks of very fine running water, from which the greater part of our +settlement was supplied. I made also a little sluice-way towards the shore, +in order to draw off the water when I wished. This spot was entirely +surrounded by meadows, where I constructed a summer-house, with some fine +trees, as a resort for enjoying the fresh air. I made there, also, a little +reservoir for holding salt-water fish, which we took out as we wanted them. +I took especial pleasure in it, and planted there some seeds which turned +out well. But much work had to be laid out in preparation. We resorted +often to this place as a pastime; and it seemed as if the little birds +round about took pleasure in it, for they gathered there in large numbers, +warbling and chirping so pleasantly that I think I never heard the like. + +The plan of the settlement was ten fathoms long and eight wide, making the +distance round thirty-six. On the eastern side is a store-house, occupying +the width of it, and a very fine cellar from five to six feet deep. On the +northern side are the quarters of Sieur de Monts, handsomely finished. +About the back yard are the dwellings of the workmen. At a corner of the +western side is a platform, where four cannon were placed; and at the other +corner, towards the east, is a palisade shaped like a platform, as can be +seen from the accompanying illustration. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +L'ABITASION DU PORT ROYAL. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. Dwelling of the artisans. +_B_. Platform where the cannon were placed. +_C_. The store-house. +_D_. Dwelling of Sieur de Pont Grave and Champlain. +_E_. The blacksmith's shop. +_F_. Palisade of pickets. +_G_. The bakery. +_H_. The kitchen. +_O_. Small house where the equipment of our barques was stored. This Sieur + de Poutrincourt afterwards had rebuilt, and Sieur Boulay dwelt there + when Sieur de Pont Grave returned to France. +_P_. Gate to our habitation. +_Q_. The Cemetery. +_R_. The River. + +NOTES. The habitation of Port Royal was on the present site of the hamlet +of Lower Granville in Nova Scotia. _I_. Points to the garden-plots. _K_. +Takes the place of _Q_, which is wanting on the map, and marks the place of +the cemetery, where may be seen the crucifix, the death's-head, and +cross-bones. _L_. Takes the place of _R_, which is wanting, to indicate the +river. _M_. Indicates the moat on the north side of the dwelling. _N_. +Probably indicates the dwelling of the gentlemen, De Monts and others. + + * * * * * + +Some days after the buildings were completed, I went to the river St. John +to find the savage named Secondon, the same that conducted Prevert's party +to the copper mine, which I had already gone in search of with Sieur de +Monts, when we were at the Port of Mines, though without success. [181] +Having found him, I begged him to go there with us, which he very readily +consented to do, and proceeded to show it to us. We found there some +little pieces of copper of the thickness of a sou, and others still thicker +imbedded in grayish and red rocks. The miner accompanying us, whose name +was Master Jacques, a native of Sclavonia, a man very skilful in searching +for minerals, made the entire circuit of the hills to see if he could find +any gangue, [182] but without success. Yet he found, some steps from where +we had taken the pieces of copper before mentioned, something like a mine, +which, however, was far from being one. He said that, from the appearance +of the soil, it might prove to be good, if it were worked; and that it was +not probable that there could be pure copper on the surface of the earth, +without there being a large quantity of it underneath. The truth is that, +if the water did not cover the mines twice a day, and if they did not lie +in such hard rocks, something might be expected from them. + +After making this observation, we returned to our settlement, where we +found some of our company sick with the _mal de la terre_, but not so +seriously as at the Island of St. Croix; although, out of our number of +forty-five, twelve died, including the miner, and five were sick, who +recovered the following spring. Our surgeon, named Des Champs, from +Honfleur, skilful in his profession, opened some of the bodies, to see +whether he might be more successful in discovering the cause of the +maladies that our surgeons had been the year before. He found the parts of +the body affected in the same manner as those opened at the Island of +St. Croix, but could discover no means of curing them, any more than the +other surgeons. + +On the 20th of December, it began to snow, and some ice passed along before +our Settlement. The winter was not so sharp as the year before, nor the +snow so deep, or of so long duration. Among other incidents, the wind was +so violent on the 20th of February, 1605, [183] that it blew over a large +number of trees, roots and all, and broke off many others. It was a +remarkable sight. The rains were very frequent; which was the cause of the +mild winter in comparison with the past one, although it is only +twenty-five leagues from Port Royal to St. Croix. + +On the first day of March, Pont Grave ordered a barque of seventeen or +eighteen tons to be fitted up, which was ready, on the 15th, in order to go +on a voyage of discovery along the coast of Florida. [184] With this view, +we set out on the 16th following, but were obliged to put in at an island +to the south of Manan, having gone that day eighteen leagues. We anchored +in a sandy cove, exposed to the sea and the south wind. [185] The latter +increased, during the night, to such an impetuosity that we could not stand +by our anchor, and were compelled, without choice, to go ashore, at the +mercy of God and the waves. The latter were so heavy and furious that while +we were attaching the buoy to the anchor, so as to cut the cable at the +hawse-hole, it did not give us time, but broke straightway of itself. The +wind and the sea cast us as the wave receded upon a little rock, and we +awaited only the moment to see our barque break up, and to save ourselves, +if possible, upon its fragments. In these desperate straits, after we had +received several waves, there came one so large and fortunate for us that +it carried us over the rock, and threw us on to a little sandy beach, which +insured us for this time from shipwreck. + +The barque being on shore, we began at once to unload what there was in +her, in order to ascertain where the damage was, which was not so great as +we expected. She was speedily repaired by the diligence of Champdore, her +master. Having been put in order, she was reloaded; and we waited for fair +weather and until the fury of the sea should abate, which was not until the +end of four days, namely, the 21st of March, when we set out from this +miserable place, and proceeded to Port aux Coquilles, [186] seven or eight +leagues distant. The latter is at the mouth of the river St. Croix, where +there was a large quantity of snow. We stayed there until the 29th of the +month, in consequence of the fogs and contrary winds, which are usual at +this season, when Pont Grave determined to put back to Port Royal, to see +in what condition our companions were, whom we had left there sick. Having +arrived there, Pont Grave was attacked with illness, which delayed us until +the 8th of April. + +On the 9th of the month he embarked, although still indisposed, from his +desire to see the coast of Florida, and in the belief that a change of air +would restore his health. The same day we anchored and passed the night at +the mouth of the harbor, two leagues distant from our settlement. + +The next morning before day, Champdore came to ask Pont Grave if he wished +to have the anchor raised, who replied in the affirmative, if he deemed the +weather favorable for setting out. Upon this, Champdore had the anchor +raised at once, and the sail spread to the wind, which was +north-north-east, according to his report. The weather was thick and rainy, +and the air full of fog, with indications of foul rather than fair weather. + +While going out of the mouth of the harbor, [187] we were suddenly carried +by the tide out of the passage, and, before perceiving them, were driven +upon the rocks on the east-north-east coast. [188] Pont Grave and I, who +were asleep, were awaked by hearing the sailors shouting and exclaiming, +"We are lost!" which brought me quickly to my feet, to see what was the +matter. Pont Grave was still ill, which prevented him from rising as +quickly as he wished. I was scarcely on deck, when the barque was thrown +upon the coast; and the wind, which was north, drove us upon a point. We +unfurled the mainsail, turned it to the wind, and hauled it up as high as +we could, that it might drive us up as far as possible on the rocks, for +fear that the reflux of the sea, which fortunately was falling, would draw +us in, when it would have been impossible to save ourselves. At the first +blow of our boat upon the rocks, the rudder broke, a part of the keel and +three or four planks were smashed, and some ribs stove in, which frightened +us, for our barque filled immediately; and all that we could do was to wait +until the sea fell, so that we might get ashore. For, otherwise, we were in +danger of our lives, in consequence of the swell, which was very high and +furious about us. The sea having fallen, we went on shore amid the storm, +when the barque was speedily unloaded, and we saved a large portion of the +provisions in her, with the help of the savage, Captain Secondon and his +companions, who came to us with their canoes, to carry to our habitation +what we had saved from our barque, which, all shattered as she was, went to +pieces at the return of the tide. But we, most happy at having saved our +lives, returned to our settlement with our poor savages, who stayed there a +large part of the winter; and we praised God for having rescued us from +this shipwreck, from which we had not expected to escape so easily. + +The loss of our barque caused us great regret, since we found ourselves, +through want of a vessel, deprived of the prospect of being able to +accomplish the voyage we had undertaken. And we were unable to build +another; for time was pressing, and although there was another barque on +the stocks, yet it would have required too long to get it ready, and we +could scarcely have made use of it before the return from France of the +vessels we were daily expecting. + +This was a great misfortune, and owing to the lack of foresight on the part +of the master, who was obstinate, but little acquainted with seamanship, +and trusting only his own head. He was a good carpenter, skilful in +building vessels, and careful in provisioning them with all necessaries, +but in no wise adapted to sailing them. + +Pont Grave, having arrived at the settlement, received the evidence against +Champdore, who was accused of having run the barque on shore with evil +intent. Upon such information, he was imprisoned and handcuffed, with the +intention of taking him to France and handing him over to Sieur de Monts, +to be treated as justice might direct. + +On the 15th of June, Pont Grave, finding that the vessels did not return +from France, had the handcuffs taken off from Champdore, that he might +finish the barque which was on the stocks, which service he discharged very +well. + +On the 16th of July, the time when we were to leave, in case the vessels +had not returned, as was provided in the commission which Sieur de Monts +had given to Pont Grave, we set out from our settlement to go to Cape +Breton or to Gaspe in search of means of returning to France, since we had +received no intelligence from there. + +Two of our men remained, of their own accord, to take care of the +provisions which were left at the settlement, to each of whom Pont Grave +promised fifty crowns in money, and fifty more which he agreed to estimate +their pay at when he should come to get them the following year. [189] + +There was a captain of the savages named Mabretou, [190] who promised to +take care of them, and that they should be treated as kindly as his own +children. We found him a friendly savage all the time we were there, +although he had the name of being the worst and most traitorous man of his +tribe. + +ENDNOTES: + +181. _Vide antea_, pp. 25, 26. + +182. _La gangue_. This is the technical word for the matrix, or substance + containing the ore of metals. + +183. For 1605, read 1606. + +184. Florida, as then known, extended from the peninsula indefinitely to + the north. + +185. Seal Cove, which makes up between the south-west end of the Grand + Manan and Wood Island, the latter being South of Manan and is plainly + the island referred to in the text. This cove is open to the South + wind and the sea in a storm. Wood Island has a sandy shore with + occasional rocks. + +186. _Port aux Coquilles_, the harbor of shells. This port was near the + northeastern extremity of Campobello Island, and was probably Head + Harbor, which affords a good harbor of refuge.--_Vide_ Champlain's Map + of 1612, reference 9. + +187. By "harbor" is here meant Annapolis Bay. This wreck of the barque took + place on the Granville side of Digby Strait, where the tides rise from + twenty-three to twenty-Seven feet. + +188. North-east. The text has _norouest_, clearly a misprint for _nordest_. + +189. These two men were M. La Taille and Miquelet, of whom Lescarbot speaks + in terms of enthusiastic praise for their patriotic courage in + voluntarily risking their lives for the good of New France. _Vide + Histoire Nouvelle France_, Paris, 1612, pp. 545, 546. + +190. _Mabretou_, by Lescarbot written Membertou. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +DEPARTURE FROM PORT ROYAL TO RETURN TO FRANCE.--MEETING RALLEAU AT CAPE +SABLE, WHICH CAUSED US TO TURN BACK. + + +On the 17th of the month, in accordance with the resolution we had formed, +we set out from the mouth of Port Royal with two barques, one of eighteen +tons, the other of seven or eight, with the view of pursuing the voyage to +Cape Breton or Canseau. We anchored in the strait of Long Island,[191] +where during the night our cable broke, and we came near being lost, owing +to the violent tides which strike upon several rocky points in and about +this place. But, through the diligent exertions of all, we were saved, and +escaped once more. + +On the 21st of the month there was a violent wind, which broke the irons of +our rudder between Long Island and Cape Fourchu, and reduced us to such +extremities that we were at a loss what to do. For the fury of the sea did +not permit us to land, since the breakers ran mountain high along the +coast, so that we resolved to perish in the sea rather than to land, hoping +that the wind and tempest would abate, so that, with the wind astern, we +might go ashore on some sandy beach. As each one thought by himself what +might be done for our preservation, a sailor said that a quantity of +cordage attached to the stern of our barque, and dragging in the water, +might serve in some measure to steer our vessel. But this was of no avail; +and we saw that, unless God should aid us by other means, this would not +preserve us from shipwreck. As we were thinking what could be done for our +safety, Champdore, who had been again handcuffed, said to some of us that, +if Pont Grave desired it, he would find means to steer our barque. This we +reported to Pont Grave, who did not refuse this offer, and the rest of us +still less. He accordingly had his handcuffs taken off the second time, +and at once taking a rope, he cut it and fastened the rudder with it in +such a skilful manner that it would steer the ship as well as ever. In this +way, he made amends for the mistakes he had made leading to the loss of the +previous barque, and was discharged from his accusation through our +entreaties to Pont Grave who, although Somewhat reluctantly, acceded to it. + +The same day we anchored near La Baye Courante, [192] two leagues from Cape +Fourchu, and there our barque was repaired. + +On the 23d of July, we proceeded near to Cape Sable. + +On the 24th of the month, at two o'clock in the afternoon, we perceived a +shallop, near Cormorant Island, coming from Cape Sable. Some thought it was +savages going away from Cape Breton or the Island of Canseau. Others said +it might be shallops sent from Canseau to get news of us. Finally, as we +approached nearer, we saw that they were Frenchmen, which delighted us +greatly. When it had almost reached us, we recognized Ralleau, the +Secretary of Sieur de Monts, which redoubled our joy. He informed us that +Sieur de Monts had despatched a vessel of a hundred and twenty tons, +commanded by Sieur de Poutrincourt, who had come with fifty men to act as +Lieutenant-General, and live in the country; that he had landed at Canseau, +whence the above-mentioned vessel had gone out to sea, in order, if +possible, to find us, while he, meanwhile, was proceeding along the coast +in a shallop, in order to meet us in case we should have set out, supposing +we had departed from Port Royal, as was in fact the case: in so doing, they +acted very wisely. All this intelligence caused us to turn back; and we +arrived at Port Royal on the 25th of the month, where we found the +above-mentioned vessel and Sieur de Poutrincourt, and were greatly +delighted to see realized what we had given up in despair. [193] He told us +that his delay had been caused by an accident which happened to the ship in +leaving the boom at Rochelle, where he had taken his departure, and that he +had been hindered by bad weather on his voyage. [194] + +The next day, Sieur de Poutrincourt proceeded to set forth his views as to +what should be done; and, in accordance with the opinion of all, he +resolved to stay at Port Royal this year, inasmuch as no discovery had been +made since the departure of Sieur de Monts, and the period of four months +before winter was not long enough to search out a site and construct +another settlement, especially in a large vessel, unlike a barque which +draws little water, searches everywhere, and finds places to one's mind for +effecting settlements. But he decided that, during this period, nothing +more should be done than to try to find some place better adapted for our +abode. [195] + +Thus deciding, Sieur de Poutrincourt despatched at once some laborers to +work on the land in a spot which he deemed suitable, up the river, a league +and a half from the settlement of Port Royal, and where we had thought of +making our abode. Here he ordered wheat, rye, hemp, and several other kinds +of seeds to be sown, in order to ascertain how they would flourish. [196] + +On the 22d of August, a small barque was seen approaching our settlement. +It was that of Des Antons, of St. Malo, who had come from Canseau, where +his vessel was engaged in fishing, to inform us that there were some +vessels about Cape Breton engaged in the fur-trade; and that, if we would +send our ship, we might capture them on the point of returning to +France. It was determined to do so as soon as some supplies, which were in +the ship, could be unloaded. [197] + +This being done. Pont Grave embarked, together with his companions, who had +wintered with him at Port Royal, excepting Champdore and Foulgere de Vitre. +I also stayed with De Poutrincourt, in order, with God's help, to complete +the map of the coasts and countries which I had commenced. Every thing +being put in order in the settlement. Sieur de Poutrincourt ordered +provisions to be taken on board for our voyage along the coast of Florida. + +On the 29th of August, we set out from Port Royal, as did also Pont Grave +and Des Antons, who were bound for Cape Breton and Canseau, to seize the +vessels which were engaging in the fur-trade, as I have before stated. +After getting out to sea, we were obliged to put back on account of bad +weather. But the large vessel kept on her course, and we soon lost sight of +her. + +ENDNOTES: + +191. Petit Passage, leading into St. Mary's Bay. + +192. _La Baye Courante_, the bay at the mouth of Argyl or Abuptic River, + sometimes called Lobster Bay.--_Vide Campbell's Yarmouth County_. + N.S., p. 13. The anchorage for the repair of the barque near this bay, + two leagues from Cape Fourchu, was probably near Pinckney Point, or it + may have been under the lee of one of the Tusquet Islands. + +193. Lescarbot, who with De Poutrincourt was in this vessel, the "Jonas," + gives a very elaborate account of their arrival and reception at Port + Royal. It seems that, at Canseau, Poutrincourt, supposing that the + colony at Port Royal, not receiving expected succors, had possibly + already embarked for France, as was in fact the case, had despatched a + small boat in charge of Ralleau to reconnoitre the coast, with the + hope of meeting them, if they had already embarked. The "Jonas" passed + them unobserved, perhaps while they were repairing their barque at + Baye Courante. As Ralleau did not join the "Jonas" till after their + arrival at Port Royal, Poutrincourt did not hear of the departure of + the colony till his arrival. Champlain's dates do not agree with those + of Lescarbot, and the latter is probably correct. According to + Lescarbot, Poutrincourt arrived on the 27th, and Pont Grave with + Champlain on the 31st of July. _Vide His. Nou. France_, Paris, 1612, + pp. 544, 547. + +194. Lescarbot gives a graphic account of the accident which happened to + their vessel in the harbor of Rochelle, delaying them more than a + month: and the bad weather and the bad seamanship of Captain Foulques, + who commanded the "Jonas," which kept them at sea more than two months + and a half.--_Vide His. Nou. France_, Paris. 1612, p. 523, _et seq._ + +195. Before leaving France, Poutrincourt had received instructions from the + patentee, De Monts to seek for a good harbor and more genial climate + for the colony farther south than Mallebarre, as he was not satisfied + either with St. Croix or Port Royal for a permanent abode.--_Vide + Lescarbot's His. Nou. France_, Paris, 1612, p. 552. + +196. By reference to Champlain's drawing of Port Royal, it will be seen + that the place of this agricultural experiment was on the southern + side of Annapolis River, near the mouth of Alien River, and on the + identical soil where the village of Annapolis now stands. + +197. It appears that this fur-trader was one Boyer, of Rouen, who had been + delivered from prison at Rochelle by Poutrincourt's lenity, where he + had been incarcerated probably for the same offence. They did not + succeed in capturing him at Canseau.--_Vide His. Nou. France_, par + Lescarbot, Paris, 1612, p. 553. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +SIEUR DE POUTRINCOURT SETS OUT FROM PORT ROYAL TO MAKE DISCOVERIES.--ALL +THAT WAS SEEN, AND WHAT TOOK PLACE AS FAR AS MALLEBARRE. + + +On the 5th of September, we set out again from Port Royal. + +On the 7th, we reached the mouth of the river St. Croix, where we found a +large number of savages, among others Secondon and Messamouet. We came +near being lost there on a rocky islet, on account of Champdore's usual +obstinacy. + +The next day we proceeded in a shallop to the Island of St. Croix, where +Sieur de Monts had wintered, to see if we could find any spikes of wheat +and other seeds which we had planted there. We found some wheat which had +fallen on the ground, and come up as finely as one could wish; also a large +number of garden vegetables, which also had come up fair and large. It gave +us great satisfaction to see that the soil there was good and fertile. + +After visiting the island, we returned to our barque, which was one of +eighteen tons, on the way catching a large number of mackerel, which are +abundant there at this season. It was decided to continue the voyage along +the coast, which was not a very well-considered conclusion, since we lost +much time in passing over again the discoveries made by Sieur de Monts as +far as the harbor of Mallebarre. It would have been much better, in my +opinion, to cross from where we were directly to Mallebarre, the route +being already known, and then use our time in exploring as far as the +fortieth degree, or still farther south, revisiting, upon our homeward +voyage, the entire coast at pleasure. + +After this decision, we took with us Secondon and Messamouet, who went as +far as Choueacoet in a shallop, where they wished to make an alliance with +the people of the country, by offering them some presents. + +On the 12th of September, we set out from the river St. Croix. + +On the 21st, we arrived at Choueacoet, where we saw Onemechin, chief of the +river, and Marchin, who had harvested their corn. We saw at the Island of +Bacchus [198] some grapes which were ripe and very good, and some others +not yet ripe, as fine as those in France; and I am sure that, if they were +cultivated, they would produce good wine. + +In this place. Sieur de Poutrincourt secured a prisoner that Onemechin had, +to whom Messamouet [199] made presents of kettles, hatchets, knives, and +other things. Onemechin reciprocated the same with Indian corn, squashes, +and Brazilian beans; which was not very satisfactory to Messamouet, who +went away very ill-disposed towards them for not properly recognizing his +presents, and with the intention of making war upon them in a short time. +For these nations give only in exchange for something in return, except to +those who have done them a special service, as by assisting them in their +wars. + +Continuing our course, we proceeded to the Island Cape, [200] where we +encountered rather bad weather and fogs, and saw little prospect of being +able to spend the night under shelter, since the locality was not favorable +for this. While we were thus in perplexity, it occurred to me that, while +coasting along with Sieur de Monts, I had noted on my map, at a distance of +a league from here, a place which seemed suitable for vessels, but which we +did not enter, because, when we passed it, the wind was favorable for +continuing on our course. This place we had already passed, which led me +to suggest to Sieur de Poutrincourt that we should stand in for a point in +sight, where the place in question was, which seemed to me favorable for +passing the night. We proceeded to anchor at the mouth, and went in the +next day. [201] + +Sieur de Poutrincourt landed with eight or ten of our company. We saw some +very fine grapes just ripe, Brazilian peas, [202] pumpkins, squashes, and +very good roots, which the savages cultivate, having a taste similar to +that of chards. [203] They made us presents of some of these, in exchange +for little trifles which we gave them. They had already finished their +harvest. We saw two hundred savages in this very pleasant place; and there +are here a large number [204] of very fine walnut-trees, [205] cypresses, +sassafras, oaks, ashes, and beeches. The chief of this place is named +Quiouhamenec, who came to see us with a neighbor of his, named Cohoueepech, +whom we entertained sumptuously. Onemechin, chief of Choueacoet, came also +to see us, to whom we gave a coat, which he, however, did not keep a long +time, but made a present of it to another, since he was uneasy in it, and +could not adapt himself to it. We saw also a savage here, who had so +wounded himself in the foot, and lost so much blood, that he fell down in a +swoon. Many others surrounded him, and sang some time before touching him. +Afterwards, they made some motions with their feet and hands, shook his +head and breathed upon him, when he came to himself. Our surgeon dressed +his wounds, when he went off in good spirits. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +LE BEAU PORT. [Note: _Le Beau Port_ is Gloucester.] + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. Place where our barque was. +_B_. Meadows. +_C_. Small island. [Note: Ten-Pound Island. It is forty rods long and + thirty feet high. On it is a U. S. Light, fifty feet above the + sea-level.] +_D_. Rocky cape. + +_E_. Place where we had our shallop calked. [Note: This peninsula is now + called Rocky Neck. Its southern part and the causeway which connects + it with the main land are now thickly settled.] +_F_. Little rocky islet, very high on the coast. [Note: This is Salt + Island.] +_G_. Cabins of the savages and where they till the soil. +_H_. Little river where there are meadows. [Note: This is the small stream + that flows into Fresh-Water Cove.] +_I_. Brook. +_L_. Tongue of land covered with trees, including a large number of + sassafras, walnut-trees, and vines. [Note: This is now called Eastern + Point, is three quarters of a mile long, and about half a mile in its + greatest width. At its southern extremity is a U. S. Light, sixty feet + above the sea-level. The scattering rocks figured by Champlain on its + western shore are now known as Black Bess.] +_M_. Arm of the sea on the other side of the Island Cape. [Note: Squam + River, flowing into Annisquam Harbor.] +_N_. Little River. +_O_. Little brook coming from the meadows. +_P_. Another little brook where we did our washing. +_Q_. Troop of savages coming to surprise us. [Note: They were creeping + along the eastern bank of Smith's Cove.] +_R_. Sandy strand. [Note: The beach of South-East Harbor.] +_S_. Sea-coast. +_T_. Sieur de Poutrincourt in ambuscade with some seven or eight + arquebusiers. +_V_. Sieur de Champlain discovering the savages. + +NOTES: A comparison of his map with the Coast Survey Charts will exhibit +its surprising accuracy, especially when we make allowance for the fact +that it is merely a sketch executed without measurements, and with a very +brief visit to the locality. The projection or cape west of Ten-Pound +Island, including Stage Head, may be easily identified, as likewise Fort +Point directly north of the same island, as seen on our maps, but +north-west on that of Champlain, showing that his map is oriented with an +inclination to the west. The most obvious defect is the foreshortening of +the Inner Harbor, which requires much greater elongation. + + * * * * * + +The next day, as we were calking our shallop, Sieur de Poutrincourt in the +woods noticed a number of savages who were going, with the intention of +doing us some mischief, to a little stream, where a neck connects with the +main land, at which our party were doing their washing. As I was walking +along this neck, these savages noticed me; and, in order to put a good face +upon it, since they saw that I had discovered them thus seasonably, they +began to shout and dance, and then came towards me with their bows, arrows, +quivers, and other arms. And, inasmuch as there was a meadow between them +and myself, I made a sign to them to dance again. This they did in a +circle, putting all their arms in the middle. But they had hardly +commenced, when they observed Sieur de Poutrincourt in the wood with eight +musketeers, which frightened them. Yet they did not stop until they had +finished their dance, when they withdrew in all directions, fearing lest +some unpleasant turn might be served them. We said nothing to them, +however, and showed them only demonstrations of gladness. Then we returned +to launch our shallop, and take our departure. They entreated us to wait a +day, saying that more than two thousand of them would come to see us. But, +unable to lose any time, we were unwilling to stay here longer. I am of +opinion that their object was to surprise us. Some of the land was already +cleared up, and they were constantly making clearings. Their mode of doing +it is as follows: after cutting down the trees at the distance of three +feet from the ground, they burn the branches upon the trunk, and then plant +their corn between these stumps, in course of time tearing up also the +roots. There are likewise fine meadows here, capable of supporting a large +number of cattle. This harbor is very fine, containing water enough for +vessels, and affording a shelter from the weather behind the islands. It is +in latitude 43 deg., and we gave it the name of Le Beauport. [206] + +The last day of September we set out from Beauport, and, passing Cap +St. Louis, stood on our course all night for Cap Blanc. [207] In the +morning, an hour before daylight we found ourselves to the leeward of Cap +Blanc, in Baye Blanche, with eight feet of water, and at a distance of a +league from the shore. Here we anchored, in order not to approach too near +before daylight, and to see how the tide was. Meanwhile, we sent our +shallop to make soundings. Only eight feet of water were found, so that it +was necessary to determine before daylight what we would do. The water sank +as low as five feet, and our barque sometimes touched on the sand, yet +without any injury, for the water was calm, and we had not less than three +feet of water under us. Then the tide began to rise, which gave us +encouragement. + +When it was day, we saw a very low, sandy shore, off which we were, and +more to the leeward. A shallop was sent to make soundings in the direction +of land somewhat high, where we thought there would be deep water; and, in +fact, we found seven fathoms. Here we anchored, and at once got ready the +shallop, with nine or ten men to land and examine a place where we thought +there was a good harbor to shelter ourselves in, if the wind should +increase. An examination having been made, we entered in two, three, and +four fathoms of water. When we were inside, we found five and six. There +were many very good oysters here, which we had not seen before, and we +named the place Port aux Huistres. [208] It is in latitude 42 deg.. Three +canoes of savages came out to us. On this day, the wind coming round in our +favor, we weighed anchor to go to Cap Blanc, distant from here five leagues +north a quarter north-east, and we doubled the cape. + +On the next day, the 2d of October, we arrived off Mallebarre, [209] where +we stayed some time on account of the bad weather. During this time, Sieur +de Poutrincourt, with the shallop, accompanied by twelve or fifteen men, +visited the harbor, where some hundred and fifty savages, singing and +dancing according to their custom, appeared before him. After seeing this +place, we returned to our vessel, and, the wind coming favorable, sailed +along the coast towards the south. + +ENDNOTES: + +198. Richmond Island.--_Vide antea_, note 123. The ripe grapes which he saw + were the Fox Grape. _Vitis labrusca_, which ripens in September. The + fruit is of a dark purple color, tough and musky. The Isabella, common + in our markets, is derived from it. It is not quite clear whether + those seen in an unripe state were another species or not. If they + were, they were the Frost Grape, _Vitis cardifolia_, which are found + in the northern parts of New England. The berry is small, black or + blue, having a bloom, highly acid, and ripens after frosts. This + island, so prolific in grapes, became afterward a centre of commercial + importance. On Josselyn's voyage of 1638, he says: "The Six and + twentieth day, Capt. _Thomas Cammock_ went aboard of a Barke of 300 + Tuns, laden with Island Wine, and but 7 men in her, and never a Gun, + bound for Richmond's Island, Set out by Mr. _Trelaney, of Plimouth_"-- + _Voyages_, 1675, Boston, Veazie's ed., 1865, p. 12. + +199. Messamouet was a chief from the Port de la Heve, and was accompanied + by Secondon, also a chief from the river St. John. They had come to + Saco to dispose of a quantity of goods which they had obtained from + the French fur-traders. Messamouet made an address on the occasion, in + which he stated that he had been in France, and had been entertained + at the house of Mons. de Grandmont, governor of Bavonne.--_Vide + His. Nou. France_, par Lescarbot, Paris, 1612, p. 559, _et seq._ + +200. Cape Anne. + +201. Gloucester Bay, formerly called Cape Anne Harbor, which, as we shall + see farther on, they named _Beauport_, the beautiful harbor. + +202. Brazilian peas. This should undoubtedly read Brazilian beans. _Pois du + Bresil_ is here used apparently by mistake for _febues de Bresil_.-- + Vide antea, note 127. + +203. Chards, a vegetable dill, composed of the footstocks and midrib of + artichokes, cardoons, or white beets. The "very good roots," _des + racines qui font bonnes_, were Jerusalem Artichokes, _Helianthus + tuberofus_, indigenous to the northern part of this continent. The + Italians had obtained it before Champlain's time, and named it + _Girasole_, their word for sunflower, of which the artichoke is a + species. This word, _girasole_, has been singularly corrupted in + England into _Jerusalem_; hence Jerusalem artichoke, now the common + name of this plant. We presume that there is no instance on record of + its earlier cultivation in New England than at Nauset in 1605, _vide + antea_, p. 82, and here at Gloucester in 1606. + +204. Under the word _noyers_, walnut-trees, Champlain may have comprehended + the hickories, _Carya alba_ and _porcina_, and perhaps the butternut, + _Juglans cinerea_, all of which might have been seen at Gloucester. It + is clear from his description that he saw at Saco the hickory, _Carya + porcina_, commonly known as the pig-nut or broom hickory. He probably + saw likewise the shag bark, _Carya alba_, as both are found growing + wild there even at the present day.--_Vide antea_, p. 67. Both the + butternut and the hickories are exclusively of American origin; and + there was no French name by which they could be more accurately + designated. _Noyer_ is applied in France to the tree which produces + the nut known in our markets as the English walnut. Josselyn figures + the hickory under the name of walnut.--_Vide New Eng. Rarities_, + Tuckerman's ed., p. 97. See also _Wood's New Eng. Prospect, 1634, + Prince Soc. ed., p. 18. + +205. The trees here mentioned are such probably as appeared to Champlain + especially valuable for timber or other practical uses. + + The cypress, _cypres_, has been already referred to in note 168. It is + distinguished for its durability, its power of resisting the usual + agencies of decay, and is widely used for posts, and sleepers on the + track of railways, and to a limited extent for cabinet work, but less + now than in earlier times. William Wood says of it: "This wood is more + desired for ornament than substance, being of color red and white, + like Eugh, smelling as sweet as Iuniper; it is commonly used for + seeling of houses, and making of Chests, boxes and staves."--_Wood's + New Eng. Prospect_, 1634, Prince Soc. ed., p. 19. + + The sassafras, _Sassafras officinate_, is indigenous to this + continent, and has a spicy, aromatic flavor, especially the bark and + root. It was in great repute as a medicine for a long time after the + discovery of this country. Cargoes of it were often taken home by the + early voyagers for the European markets; and it is said to have sold + as high as fifty livres per pound. Dr. Jacob Bigelow says a work + entitled "Sassafrasologia" was written to celebrate its virtues; but + its properties are only those of warm aromatics. Josselyn describes + it, and adds that it does not "grow beyond Black Point eastward," + which is a few miles north-east of Old Orchard Beach, near Saco, in + Maine. It is met with now infrequently in New England; several + specimens, however, may be seen in the Granary Burial Ground in + Boston. + + Oaks, _chesnes_, of which several of the larger species may have been + seen: as, the white oak, _Quercus alba_; black oak, _Quercus + tinfloria_; Scarlet oak, _Quercus coccinea_; and red oak, _Quercus + rubra_. + + Ash-trees, _fresnes_, probably the white ash, _Fraxinus Americana_, + and not unlikely the black ash, _Fraxinus sambucifolia_, both valuable + as timber. + + Beech-trees, _hestres_, of which there is but a single Species, _Fagus + ferruginca_, the American beech, a handsome tree, of symmetrical + growth, and clean, smooth, ash-gray bark: the nut, of triangular + shape, is sweet and palatable. The wood is brittle, and used only for + a few purposes. + +206. Le Beauport. The latitude of Ten-Pound Island, near where the French + barque was anchored in the Harbor of Gloucester, is 42 deg. 36' 5". + +207. The reader may be reminded that Cap St. Louis is Brant Point; Cap + Blanc is Cape Cod; and Baye Blanche is Cape Cod Bay. + +208. _Le Port aux Huistres_, Oyster Harbor. The reader will observe, by + looking back a few sentences in the narrative, that the French + coasters, after leaving Cap St. Louis, that is, Brant Point, had aimed + to double Cape Cod, and had directed their course, as they supposed, + to accomplish this purpose. Owing, however, to the strength of the + wind, or the darkness of the night, or the inattention of their pilot, + or all these together, they had passed to the leeward of the point + aimed at, and before morning found themselves near a harbor, which + they subsequently entered, in Cape Cod Bay. It is plain that this + port, which they named Oyster Harbor, was either that of Wellfleet or + Barnstable. The former, it will be remembered, Champlain, with De + Monts, entered the preceding year, 1605, and named it, or the river + that flows into it, St. Suzanne du Cap Blanc.--_Vide antea_, note + 166. It is obvious that Champlain could not have entered this harbor + the second time without recognizing it: and, if he had done so, he + would not have given to it a name entirely different from that which + he had given it the year before. He was too careful an observer to + fall into such an extraordinary mistake. We may conclude, therefore, + that the port in question was not Wellfleet, but Barnstable. This + conclusion is sustained by the conditions mentioned in the text. They + entered, on a flood-tide, in twelve, eighteen, and twenty-four feet of + water, and found thirty or thirty-six when they had passed into the + harbor. It could hardly be expected that any harbor among the shifting + sands of Cape Cod would remain precisely the same, as to depth of + water, after the lapse of two hundred and fifty years. Nevertheless, + the discrepancy is so slight in this case, that it would seem to be + accidental, rather than to arise from the solidity or fixedness of the + harbor-bed. The channel of Barnstable Harbor, according to the Coast + Survey Charts, varies in depth at low tide, for two miles outside of + Sandy Neck Point, from seven to ten feet for the first mile, and for + the next mile from ten feet to thirty-two on reaching Beach Point, + which may be considered the entrance of the bay. On passing the Point, + we have thirty-six and a half feet, and for a mile inward the depth + varies from twelve to twenty feet. Add a few feet for the rise of the + tide on which they entered, and the depth of the water in 1606 could + not have been very different from that of to-day. The "low sandy + coast" which they saw is well represented by Spring Hill Beach and + Sandy Neck; the "land somewhat high," by the range of hills in the + rear of Barnstable Harbor. The distance from the mouth of the harbor + to Wood End light, the nearest point on Cape Cod, does not vary more + than a league, and its direction is about that mentioned by + Champlain. The difference in latitude is not greater than usual. It is + never sufficiently exact for the identification of any locality. The + substantial agreement, in so many particulars with the narrative of + the author, renders it quite clear that the _Port aux Huistres_ was + Barnstable Harbor. They entered it on the morning of the 1st of + October, and appear to have left on the same day. Sandy Neck light, at + the entrance of the harbor, is in latitude 41 deg. 43' 19". + +209. Nauset Harbor. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +CONTINUATION OF THE ABOVE DISCOVERIES, AND WHAT WAS OBSERVED OF PARTICULAR +IMPORTANCE. + + +When we were some six leagues from Mallebarre, we anchored near the coast, +the wind not being fair, along which we observed columns of smoke made by +the savages, which led us to determine to go to them, for which purpose the +shallop was made ready. But when near the coast, which is sandy, we could +not land, for the swell was too great. Seeing this, the savages launched a +canoe, and came out to us, eight or nine of them, singing and making signs +of their joy at seeing us, and they indicated to us that lower down there +was a harbor where we could put our barque in a place of security. Unable +to land, the shallop came back to the barque; and the savages, whom we had +treated civilly, returned to the shore. + +On the next day, the wind being favorable, we continued our course to the +north [210] five leagues, and hardly had we gone this distance, when we +found three and four fathoms of water at a distance of a league and a half +from the shore. On going a little farther, the depth suddenly diminished +to a fathom and a half and two fathoms, which alarmed us, since we saw the +sea breaking all around, but no passage by which we could retrace our +course, for the wind was directly contrary. + +Accordingly being shut in among the breakers and sand-banks, we had to go +at hap-hazard where there seemed to be the most water for our barque, which +was at most only four feet: we continued among these breakers until we +found as much as four feet and a half. Finally, we succeeded, by the grace +of God, in going over a sandy point running out nearly three leagues +seaward to the south-south-east, and a very dangerous place. [211] Doubling +this cape, which we named Cap Batturier, [212] which is twelve or thirteen +leagues from Mallebarre, [213] we anchored in two and a half fathoms of +water, since we saw ourselves surrounded on all sides by breakers and +shoals, except in some places where the sea was breaking to go to a place, +which, we concluded to be that which the savages had indicated. We also +thought there was a river there, where we could lie in security. + +When our shallop arrived there, our party landed and examined the place, +and, returning with a savage whom they brought off, they told us that we +could enter at full tide, which was resolved upon. We immediately weighed +anchor, and, under the guidance of the savage who piloted us, proceeded to +anchor at a roadstead before the harbor, in six fathoms of water and a good +bottom; [214] for we could not enter, as the night overtook us. + +On the next day, men were sent to set stakes at the end of a sand-bank +[215] at the mouth of the harbor, when, the tide rising, we entered in two +fathoms of water. When we had arrived, we praised God for being in a place +of safety. Our rudder had broken, which we had mended with ropes; but we +were afraid that, amid these shallows and strong tides, it would break +anew, and we should be lost. Within this harbor [216] there is only a +fathom of water, and two at full tide. On the east, there is a bay +extending back on the north some three leagues, [217] in which there is an +island and two other little bays which adorn the landscape, where there is +a considerable quantity of land cleared up, and many little hills, where +they cultivate corn and the various grains on which they live. There are, +also, very fine vines, many walnut-trees, oaks, cypresses, but only a few +pines. [218] All the inhabitants of this place are very fond of +agriculture, and provide themselves with Indian corn for the winter, which +they store in the following manner:-- + +They make trenches in the sand on the slope of the hills, some five to six +feet deep, more or less. Putting their corn and other grains into large +grass sacks, they throw them into these trenches, and cover them with sand +three or four feet above the surface of the earth, taking it out as their +needs require. In this way, it is preserved as well as it would be possible +to do in our granaries. [219] + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +_PORT FORTUNE_. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. Pond of salt water. [Note: This is now called Oyster Pond.] +_B_. Cabins of the Savages and the lands they cultivate. +_C_. Meadows where there are two little brooks. +_C_. Meadows on the island, that are covered at every tide. [Note: The + letter _C_ appears twice in the index, but both are wanting on the + map. The former seems to point to the meadows on the upper left-hand + corner: the other should probably take the place of the _O_ on the + western part of the island above _F_.] +_D_. Small mountain ranges on the island, that are covered with trees, + vines, and plum-trees. [Note: This range of hills is a marked feature + of the island.] +_E_. Pond of fresh water, where there is plenty of game. [Note: This pond + is still distinguished for its game, and is leased by gentlemen in + Boston and held as a preserve.] +_F_. A kind of meadow on the island. [Note: This is known as Morris Island; + but the strait on the north of it has been filled up, and the island + is now a part of the main land.] +_G_. An island covered with wood in a great arm of the sea. [Note: This + island has been entirely obliterated, and the neck on the north has + likewise been swept away, and the bay now extends several leagues + farther north. The destruction of the island was completed in 1851, in + the gale that swept away Minot's Light. In 1847, it had an area of + thirteen acres and an elevation of twenty feet.--_Vide Harbor + Com. Report, 1873.] +_H_. A sort of pond of salt water, where there are many shell-fish, and, + among others, quantities of oysters. [Note: This is now called the + Mill Pond.] +_I_. Sandy downs on a narrow tongue of land. +_L_. Arm of the sea. +_M_. Roadstead before the harbor where we anchored. [Note: Chatham Roads, + or Old Stage Harbor.] +_N_. Entrance to the harbor. +_O_. The harbor and place where our barque was. +_P_. The cross we planted. +_Q_. Little brook. +_R_. Mountain which is seen at a great distance. [Note: A moderate + elevation, by no means a mountain in our sense of the word.] +_S_. Sea-shore. +_T_. Little river. +_V_. Way we went in their country among their dwellings: it is indicated by + small dots. [Note: The circuit here indicated is about four or five + miles. Another path is indicated in the same manner on the extreme + northern end of the map, which shows that their excursions had been + extensive.] +_X_. Banks and shoals. +_Y_. Small mountain seen in the interior. [Note: This is now called the + Great Chatham Hill, and is a conspicuous landmark.] +_Z_. Small brooks. +_9_. Spot near the cross where the savages killed our men. [Note: This is a + creek up which the tide sets. The other brook figured on the map a + little south of the cross has been artificially filled up, but the + marshes which it drained are still to be seen. These landmarks enable + us to fix upon the locality of the cross within a few feet.] + + * * * * * + +We saw in this place some five to six hundred savages, all naked except +their sexual parts, which they cover with a small piece of doe or +seal-skin. The women are also naked, and, like the men, cover theirs with +skins or leaves. They wear their hair carefully combed and twisted in +various ways, both men and women, after the manner of the savages of +Choueacoet. [220] Their bodies are well-proportioned, and their skin +olive-colored. They adorn themselves with feathers, beads of shell, and +other gewgaws, which they arrange very neatly in embroidery work. As +weapons, they have bows, arrows, and clubs. They are not so much great +hunters as good fishermen and tillers of the land. + +In regard to their police, government, and belief, we have been unable to +form a judgment; but I suppose that they are not different in this respect +from our savages, the Souriquois and Canadians, who worship neither the +moon nor the sun, nor any thing else, and pray no more than the beasts. +[221] There are, however, among them some persons, who, as they say, are in +concert with the devil, in whom they have great faith. They tell them all +that is to happen to them, but in so doing lie for the most part. Sometimes +they succeed in hitting the mark very well, and tell them things similar to +those which actually happen to them. For this reason, they have faith in +them, as if they were prophets; while they are only impostors who delude +them, as the Egyptians and Bohemians do the simple villagers. They have +chiefs, whom they obey in matters of war, but not otherwise, and who engage +in labor, and hold no higher rank than their companions. Each one has only +so much land as he needs for his support. + +Their dwellings are separate from each other, according to the land which +each one occupies. They are large, of a circular shape, and covered with +thatch made of grasses or the husks of Indian corn. [222] They are +furnished only with a bed or two, raised a foot from the ground, made of a +number of little pieces of wood pressed against each other, on which they +arrange a reed mat, after the Spanish style, which is a kind of matting two +or three fingers thick: on these they sleep. [223] They have a great many +fleas in summer, even in the fields. One day as we went out walking, we +were beset by so many of them that we were obliged to change our clothes. + +All the harbors, bays, and coasts from Choueacoet are filled with every +variety of fish, like those which we have before our habitation, and in +such abundance that I can confidently assert that there was not a day or +night when we did not see and hear pass by our barque more than a thousand +porpoises, which were chasing the smaller fry. There are also many +shell-fish of various sorts, principally oysters. Game birds are very +plenty. + +It would be an excellent place to erect buildings and lay the foundations +of a State, if the harbor were somewhat deeper and the entrance safer. +Before leaving the harbor, the rudder was repaired; and we had some bread +made from flour, which we had brought for our subsistence, in case our +biscuit should give out. Meanwhile, we sent the shallop with five or six +men and a savage to see whether a passage might be found more favorable for +our departure than that by which we had entered. + +After they had gone five or six leagues and were near the land, the savage +made his escape [224], since he was afraid of being taken to other savages +farther south, the enemies of his tribe, as he gave those to understand who +were in the shallop. The latter, upon their return, reported that, as far +as they had advanced, there were at least three fathoms of water, and that +farther on there were neither shallows nor reefs. + +We accordingly made haste to repair our barque, and make a supply of bread +for fifteen days. Meanwhile, Sieur de Poutrincourt, accompanied by ten or +twelve arquebusiers, visited all the neighboring country, which is very +fine, as I have said before, and where we saw here and there a large number +of little houses. + +Some eight or nine days after, while Sieur de Poutrincourt was walking out, +as he had previously done, [225] we observed the Savages taking down their +cabins and sending their women, children, provisions, and other necessaries +of life into the woods. This made us suspect some evil intention, and that +they purposed to attack those of our company who were working on shore, +where they stayed at night in order to guard that which could not be +embarked at evening except with much trouble. This proved to be true; for +they determined among themselves, after all their effects had been put in a +place of security, to come and surprise those on land, taking advantage of +them as much as possible, and to carry off all they had. But, if by chance +they should find them on their guard, they resolved to come with signs of +friendship, as they were wont to do, leaving behind their bows and arrows. + +Now, in view of what Sieur de Poutrincourt had seen, and the order which it +had been told him they observed when they wished to play some bad trick, +when we passed by some cabins, where there was a large number of women, we +gave them some bracelets and rings to keep them quiet and free from fear, +and to most of the old and distinguished men hatchets, knives, and other +things which they desired. This pleased them greatly, and they repaid it +all in dances, gambols, and harangues, which we did not understand at all. +We went wherever we chose without their having the assurance to say any +thing to us. It pleased us greatly to see them; show themselves so simple +in appearance. + +We returned very quietly to our barque, accompanied by some of the savages. +On the way, we met several small troops of them, who gradually gathered +together with their arms, and were greatly astonished to see us so far in +the interior, and did not suppose that we had just made a circuit of nearly +four or five leagues about their territory. Passing near us, they trembled +with fear, lest harm should be done them, as it was in our power to do. But +we did them none, although we knew their evil intentions. Having arrived +where our men were working, Sieur de Poutrincourt inquired if every thing +was in readiness to resist the designs of this rabble. + +He ordered every thing on shore to be embarked. This was done, except that +he who was making the bread stayed to finish a baking, and two others with +him. They were told that the savages had some evil intent, and that they +should make haste to embark the coming evening, since they carried their +plans into execution only at night, or at daybreak, which in their plots is +generally the hour for making a surprise. + +Evening having come, Sieur de Poutrincourt gave orders that the shallop +should be sent ashore to get the men who remained. This was done as soon as +the tide would permit, and those on shore were told that they must embark +for the reason assigned. This they refused in spite of the remonstrances +that were made setting forth the risks they ran and the disobedience to +their chief. They paid no attention to it, with the exception of a servant +of Sieur de Poutrincourt, who embarked. Two others disembarked from the +shallop and went to the three on shore, who had stayed to eat some cakes +made at the same time with the bread. + +But, as they were unwilling to do as they were told, the shallop returned +to the vessel. It was not mentioned to Sieur de Poutrincourt, who had +retired, thinking that all were on board. + +The next day, in the morning, the 15th of October, the savages did not fail +to come and see in what condition our men were, whom they found asleep, +except one, who was near the fire. When they saw them in this condition, +they came, to the number of four hundred, softly over a little hill, and +sent them such a volley of arrows that to rise up was death. Fleeing the +best they could towards our barque, shouting, "Help! they are killing us!" +a part fell dead in the water; the others were all pierced with arrows, and +one died in consequence a short time after. The savages made a desperate +noise with roarings, which it was terrible to hear. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +THE ATTACK AT PORT FORTUNE. + +The figures indicate fathoms of water. + +_A_. Place where the French were making bread. +_B_. The savages surprising the French, and shooting their arrows at them. +_C_. French burned by the Savages. +_D_. The French fleeing to the barque, completely covered with arrows. +_E_. Troops of savages burning the French whom they had killed. +_F_. Mountain bordering on the harbor. +_G_. Cabins of the savages. +_H_. French on the shore charging upon the Savages. +_I_. Savages routed by the French. +_L_. Shallop in which were the French. +_M_. Savages around our shallop, who were surprised by our men. +_N_. Barque of Sieur de Poutrincourt. +_O_. The harbor. +_P_. Small brook. +_Q_. French who fell dead in the water as they were trying to flee to the + barque. +_R_. Brook coming from certain marshes. +_S_. Woods under cover of which the savages came. + + * * * * * + +Upon the occurrence of this noise and that of our men, the sentinel, on our +vessel, exclaimed, "To arms! They are killing our men!" Consequently, each +one immediately seized his arms; and we embarked in the shallop, some +fifteen or sixteen of us, in order to go ashore. But, being unable to get +there on account of a sand-bank between us and the land, we threw ourselves +into the water, and waded from this bank to the shore, the distance of a +musket-shot. As soon as we were there, the savages, seeing us within arrow +range, fled into the interior. To pursue them was fruitless, for they are +marvellously swift. All that we could do was to carry away the dead bodies +and bury them near a cross, which had been set up the day before, and then +to go here and there to see if we could get sight of any of them. But it +was time wasted, therefore we came back. Three hours afterwards, they +returned to us on the sea-shore. We discharged at them several shots from +our little brass cannon; and, when they heard the noise, they crouched down +on the ground to avoid the fire. In mockery of us, they beat down the cross +and disinterred the dead, which displeased us greatly, and caused us to go +for them a second time; but they fled, as they had done before. We set up +again the cross, and reinterred the dead, whom they had thrown here and +there amid the heath, where they kindled a fire to burn them. We returned +without any result, as we had done before, well aware that there was +scarcely hope of avenging ourselves this time, and that we should have to +renew the undertaking when it should please God. + +On the 16th of the month, we set out from Port Fortune, to which we had +given this name on account of the misfortune which happened to us there. +This place is in latitude 41 deg. 20', and some twelve or thirteen leagues from +Mallebarre. [226] + +ENDNOTES: + +210. Clearly a mistake. Champlain here says they "continued their course + north," whereas, the whole context shows that they must have gone + south. + +211. "The sandy point" running out nearly three leagues was evidently the + island of Monomoy, or its representative, which at that time may have + been only a continuation of the main land. Champlain does not + delineate on his map an island, but a sand-bank nearly in the shape of + an isosceles triangle, which extends far to the south-east. Very great + changes have undoubtedly taken place on this part of the coast since + the visit of Champlain. The sand-bar figured by him has apparently + been swept from the south-east round to the south-west, and is perhaps + not very much changed in its general features except as to its + position. "We know from our studies of such shoals," says + Prof. Mitchell, Chief of Physical Hydrography, U. S. Coast Survey, + "that the relative order of banks and beaches remains about the same, + however the system as a whole may change its location."--_Mass. + Harbor Commissioners' Report_. 1873, p. 99. + +212. _Batturier_. This word is an adjective, formed with the proper + termination from the noun, _batture_, which means a bank upon which + the sea beats, reef or sand-bank. _Cap Batturier_ may therefore be + rendered sand-bank cape, or the cape of the sand-banks. _Batturier_ + does not appear in the dictionaries, and was doubtless coined by + Champlain himself, as he makes, farther on, the adjective _truitiere_, + in the expression _la riviere truitiere_, from the noun, _truite_. + +213. The distances here given appear to be greatly overstated. From Nauset + to the southern point of Monomoy, as it is to-day, the distance is not + more than six leagues. But, as the sea was rough, and they were + apparently much delayed, the distance might naturally enough be + overestimated. + +214. The anchorage was in Chatham Roads, or Old Stage Harbor. + +215. Harding's Beach Point. + +216. They were now in Stage Harbor, in Chatham, to which Champlain, farther + on gives the name of Port Fortune. + +217. This is the narrow bay that stretches from Morris Island to the north, + parallel with the sea, separated from it only by a sand-bank, and now + reaching beyond Chatham into the town of Orleans. By comparing + Champlain's map of Port Fortune with modern charts, it will be seen + that the "bay extending back on the north some three leagues" + terminated, in 1606, a little below Chatham Old Harbor. The island on + Champlain's map marked G. was a little above the harbor, but has been + entirely swept away, together with the neck north of it, represented + on Champlain's map as covered with trees. The bay now extends, as we + have stated above, into the town of Orleans. The island G, known in + modern times as Ram Island, disappeared in 1851, although it still + continued to figure on Walling's map of 1858: The two other little + bays mentioned in the text scarcely appear on Champlain's map; and he + may have inadvertently included in this bay the two that are farther + north, viz. Crow's Pond and Pleasant Bay, although they do not fall + within the limits of his map. + +218. _Vide antea_, notes 168, 204, 205. + +219. Indian corn, _Zea mays_, is a plant of American origin. Columbus saw + it among the natives of the West Indies, "a sort of grain they call + Maiz, which was well tasted, bak'd, or dry'd and made into flour."-- + _Vide History of the Life and Actions of Chris. Columbus by his Son + Ferdinand Columbus, Churchill's Voyages_, Vol. II. p. 510. + + It is now cultivated more or less extensively in nearly every part of + the world where the climate is suitable. Champlain is the first who + has left a record of the method of its cultivation in New England, + _vide antea_, p. 64, and of its preservation through the winter. The + Pilgrims, in 1620, found it deposited by the Indians in the ground + after the manner described in the text. Bradford says they found + "heaps of sand newly padled with their hands, which they, digging up, + found in them diverce faire Indean baskets filled with corne, and some + in eares, faire and good, of diverce collours, which seemed to them a + very goodly sight, haveing never seen any such before:"--_His. Plym. + Plantation_, p. 82. Squanto taught the English how to "set it, and + after how to dress and tend it"--_Idem_, p. 100. + + "The women," says Roger Williams, "set or plant, weede and hill, and + gather and barne all the corne and Fruites of the field," and of + drying the corn, he adds, "which they doe carefully upon heapes and + Mats many dayes, they barne it up, covering it up with Mats at night, + and opening when the Sun is hot" + + The following are testimonies as to the use made by the natives of the + Indian corn as food:-- + + "They brought with them in a thing like a Bow-case, which the + principall of them had about his wast, a little of their Corne + powdered to Powder, which put to a little water they eate."--_Mourts + Relation_, London, 1622, Dexter's ed., p. 88. + + "Giving us a kinde of bread called by them _Maizium_."--_Idem_, + p. 101. + + "They seldome or never make bread of their _Indian_ corne, but seeth + it whole like beanes, eating three or four cornes with a mouthfull of + fish or flesh, sometimes eating meate first and cornes after, filling + chinckes with their broth."--_Wood's New Eng. Prospect_, London, 1634. + Prince Society's ed., pp. 75, 76. + + "Nonkekich. _Parch'd meal_, which is a readie very wholesome, food, + which they eate with a little water hot or cold: ... With _spoonfull_ + of this _meale_ and a spoonfull of water from the _Brooke_, have I + made many a good dinner and supper."--_Roger Williams's Key_, London, + 1643, Trumbull's ed., pp. 39, 40. + + "Their food is generally boiled maize, or Indian corn, mixed with + kidney beans or Sometimes without.... Also they mix with the said + pottage several sorts of roots, as Jerusalem artichokes, and ground + nuts, and other roots, and pompions, and squashes, and also several + sorts of nuts or masts, as oak-acorns, chesnuts, walnuts: These husked + and dried, and powdered, they thicken their pottage therewith."-- + _Historical Collections of the Indians_, by Daniel Gookin, 1674, + Boston, 1792. p. 10. + +220. The character of the Indian dress, as here described, does not differ + widely from that of a later period.--_Vide Mourt's Relation_, 1622, + Dexter's ed., p. 135: _Roger Williams's Key_, 1643, Trumbull's ed., + p. 143, _et seq.; History of New England_, by Edward Johnson, 1654, + Poole's ed., pp. 224, 225. + + Champlain's observations were made in the autumn before the approach + of the winter frosts. + + Thomas Morton, writing in 1632, says that the mantle which the women + "use to cover their nakednesse with is much longer then that which the + men use; for as the men have one Deeres skinn, the women haue two soed + together at the full length, and it is so lardge that it trailes after + them, like a great Ladies trane, and in time," he sportively adds, "I + thinke they may have their Pages to beare them up."--_New Eng. + Canaan_, 1632, in Force's Tracts, Vol. II, p. 23. + +221. This conclusion harmonizes with the opinion of Thomas Morton, who says + that the natives of New England are "_sine fide, sine lege, et sine + rege_, and that they have no worship nor religion at all."--_New Eng. + Canaan_, 1632, in Force's Tracts, Vol. II. p. 21. + + Winslow was at first of the same opinion, but afterward saw cause for + changing his mind.--_Vide Winslow's Relation_, 1624, in Young's + Chronicles, P 355. See also _Roger Williams's Key_, Trumbull's ed., + p. 159. + +222. "Their houses, or wigwams," says Gookin, "are built with small poles + fixed in the ground, bent and fastened together with barks of trees, + oval or arborwise on the top. The best sort of their houses are + covered very neatly, tight, and warm with the bark of trees, stripped + from their bodies at such seasons when the sap is up; and made into + great flakes with pressures of weighty timbers, when they are green; + and so becoming dry, they will retain a form suitable for the use they + prepare them for. The meaner sort of wigwams are covered with mats + they make of a kind of bulrush, which are also indifferent tight and + warm, but not so good as the former."--_Vide Historical Collections_, + 1674, Boston, 1792, p. 9. + +223. The construction of the Indian couch, or bed, at a much later period + may be seen by the following excerpts: "So we desired to goe to rest: + he layd us on the bed with himselfe and his wife, they at one end and + we at the other, it being only plancks layd a foot from the ground, + and a thin mat upon them."--_Mourt's Relation_, London. 1622, Dexter's + ed., pp. 107, 108. "In their wigwams, they make a kind of couch or + mattresses, firm and strong, raised about a foot high from the earth; + first covered with boards that they split out of trees; and upon the + boards they spread mats generally, and sometimes bear skins and deer + skins. These are large enough for three or four persons to lodge upon: + and one may either draw nearer or keep at a more distance from the + heat of the fire, as they please; for their mattresses are six or + eight feet broad."--_Gookin's Historical Collections_, 1674, Boston, + 1792, p. 10. + +224. This exploration appears to have extended about as far as Point + Gammon, where, being "near the land," their Indian guide left them, as + stated in the text. + +225. On the map of Port Fortune, or Chatham, the course of one of these + excursions is marked by a dotted line, to which the reader is + referred.--_Vide_ notes on the map of Port Fortune. + +226. _Port Fortune_, perhaps here used, to signify the port of chance or + hazard; referring particularly to the dangers they encountered in + passing round Monomoy to reach it. The latitude of Stage Harbor in + Chatham is 41 deg. 40'. The distance from Mallebarre or Nauset to Port + Fortune, or Stage Harbor, by water round the Southern point of Monomoy + is at the present time about nine leagues. The distance may possibly + have been greater in 1606, or Champlain may have increased the + distance by giving a wide berth to Monomoy in passing round it. + + + + +CHAPTER XV. + +THE INCLEMENCY OF THE WEATHER NOT PERMITTING US AT THAT TIME TO CONTINUE +OUR DISCOVERIES, WE RESOLVED TO RETURN TO OUR SETTLEMENT. WHAT HAPPENED TO +US UNTIL WE REACHED IT. + + +After having gone some six or seven leagues, we sighted an island, which we +named La Soupconneuse, [227] because in the distance we had several times +thought it was not an island. Then the wind became contrary, which caused +us to put back to the place whence we had set out, where we stayed two or +three days, no savage during this time presenting himself to us. + +On the 20th, we set out anew and coasted along to the south-west nearly +twelve leagues, [228] where we passed near a river which is small and +difficult of access in consequence of the shoals and rocks at its mouth, +and which I called after my own name. [229] This coast is, so far as we +saw, low and sandy. The wind again grew contrary and very strong, which +caused us to put out to sea, as we were unable to advance on one tack or +the other; it, however, finally abated a little and grew favorable. But all +we could do was to return again to Port Fortune, where the coast, though +low, is fine and good, yet difficult of access, there being no harbors, +many reefs, and shallow water for the distance of nearly two leagues from +land. The most that we found was seven or eight fathoms in some channels, +which, however, continued only a cable's length, when there were suddenly +only two or three fathoms; but one should not trust the water who has not +well examined the depth with the lead in hand. + +Some hours after we had returned to port, a son of Pont Grave, named +Robert, lost a hand in firing a musket, which burst in several pieces, but +without injuring any one near him. + +Seeing now the wind continuing contrary, and being unable to put to sea, we +resolved meanwhile to get possession of some savages of this place, and, +taking them to our settlement, put them to grinding corn at the hand-mill, +as punishment for the deadly assault which they had committed on five or +six of our company. But it was very difficult to do this when we were +armed, since, if we went to them prepared to fight, they would turn and +flee into the woods, where they were not to be caught. It was necessary, +accordingly, to have recourse to artifice, and this is what we planned: +when they should come to seek friendship with us, to coax them by showing +them beads and other gewgaws, and assure them repeatedly of our good faith; +then to take the shallop well armed, and conduct on shore the most robust +and strong men we had, each one having a chain of beads and a fathom of +match on his arm; [230] and there, while pretending to smoke with them +(each one having an end of his match lighted so as not to excite suspicion, +it being customary to have fire at the end of a cord in order to light the +tobacco), coax them with pleasing words so as to draw them into the +shallop; and, if they should be unwilling to enter, each one approaching +should choose his man, and, putting the beads about his neck, should at the +same time put the rope on him to draw him by force. But, if they should be +too boisterous, and it should not be possible to succeed, they should be +stabbed, the rope being firmly held; and, if by chance any of them should +get away, there should be men on land to charge upon them with swords. +Meanwhile, the little cannon on our barque were to be kept ready to fire +upon their companions in case they should come to assist them, under cover +of which firearms the shallop could withdraw in security. The plan +above-mentioned was well carried out as it had been arranged. + +Some days after these events had transpired, there came savages by threes +and fours to the shore, making signs to us to go to them. But we saw their +main body in ambuscade under a hillock behind some bushes, and I suppose +that they were only desirous of beguiling us into the shallop in order to +discharge a shower of arrows upon us, and then take to flight. +Nevertheless, Sieur de Poutrincourt did not hesitate to go to them with ten +of us, well equipped and determined to fight them, if occasion offered. We +landed at a place beyond their ambuscade, as we thought, and where they +could not surprise us. There three or four of us went ashore together with +Sieur de Poutrincourt: the others did not leave the shallop, in order to +protect it and be ready for an emergency. We ascended a knoll and went +about the woods to see if we could not discover more plainly the ambuscade. +When they saw us going so unconcernedly to them, they left and went to +other places, which we could not see, and of the four savages we saw only +two, who went away very slowly. As they withdrew, they made signs to us to +take our shallop to another place, thinking that it was not favorable for +the carrying out of their plan. And, when we also saw that they had no +desire to come to us, we re-embarked and went to the place they indicated, +which was the second ambuscade they had made, in their endeavor to draw us +unarmed to themselves by signs of friendship. But this we were not +permitted to do at that time, yet we approached very near them without +seeing this ambuscade, which we supposed was not far off. As our shallop +approached the shore, they took to flight, as also those in ambush, after +whom we fired some musket-shots, since we saw that their intention was only +to deceive us by flattery, in which they were disappointed; for we +recognized clearly what their purpose was, which had only mischief in view. +We retired to our barque after having done all we could. + +On the same day, Sieur de Poutrincourt resolved to return to our settlement +on account of four or five sick and wounded men, whose wounds were growing +worse through lack of salves, of which our surgeon, by a great mistake on +his part, had brought but a small provision, to the detriment of the sick +and our own discomfort, as the stench from their wounds was so great, in a +little vessel like our own, that one could scarcely endure it. Moreover, we +were afraid that they would generate disease. Also we had provisions only +for going eight or ten days farther, however much economy might be +practised; and we knew not whether the return would last as long as the +advance, which was nearly two months. + +At any rate, our resolution being formed, we withdrew, but with the +satisfaction that God had not left unpunished the misdeeds of these +barbarians. [231] We advanced no farther than to latitude 41 deg. 30', which +was only half a degree farther than Sieur de Monts had gone on his voyage +of discovery. We set out accordingly from this harbor. [232] + +On the next day, we anchored near Mallebarre, where we remained until the +28th of the month, when we set sail. On that day the air was very cold, +and there was a little snow. We took a direct course for Norumbegue or +Isle Haute. Heading east-north-east, we were two days at sea without +seeing land, being kept back by bad weather. On the following night, we +sighted the islands, which are between Quinibequy and Norumbegue. [233] +The wind was so strong that we were obliged, to put to sea until daybreak; +but we went so far from land, although we used very little sail, that we +could not see it again until the next day, when we saw Isle Haute, of which +we were abreast. + +On the last day of October, between the Island of Monts Deserts and Cap +Corneille, [234] our rudder broke in several pieces, without our knowing +the reason. Each one expressed his opinion about it. On the following +night, with a fresh breeze, we came among a large number of islands and +rocks, whither the wind drove us; and we resolved to take refuge, if +possible, on the first land we should find. + +We were for some time at the mercy of the wind and sea, with only the +foresail set. But the worst of it was that the night was dark, and we did +not know where we were going; for our barque could not be steered at all, +although we did all that was possible, holding in our hands the sheets of +the foresail, which sometimes enabled us to steer it a little. We kept +continually sounding, to see if it were possible to find a bottom for +anchoring, and to prepare ourselves for what might happen. But we found +none. Finally, as we were going faster than we wished, it was recommended +to put an oar astern together with some men, so as to steer to an island +which we saw, in order to shelter ourselves from the wind. Two other oars +also were put over the sides in the after part of the barque, to assist +those who were steering, in order to make the vessel bear up on one tack +and the other. This device served us so well, that we headed where we +wished, and ran in behind the point of the island we had seen, anchoring in +twenty-one fathoms of water until daybreak, when we proposed to reconnoitre +our position and seek for a place to make another rudder. The wind abated. +At daybreak, we found ourselves near the Isles Rangees, [235] entirely +surrounded by breakers, and we praised God for having preserved us so +wonderfully amid so many perils. + +On the 1st of November, we went to a place which we deemed favorable for +beaching our vessel and repairing our helm. On this day, I landed, and saw +some ice two inches thick, it having frozen perhaps eight or ten days +before. I observed also that the temperature of the place differed very +much from that of Mallebarre and Port Fortune; for the leaves of the trees +were not yet dead, and had not begun to fall when we set out, while here +they had all fallen, and it was much colder than at Port Fortune. + +On the next day, as we were beaching our barque, a canoe came containing +Etechemin savages, who told the savage Secondon in our barque that +Iouaniscou, with his companions, had killed some other savages, and carried +off some women as prisoners, whom they had executed near the Island of +Monts Deserts. + +On the 9th of the month, we set out from near Cap Corneille, and anchored +the same day in the little passage [236] of Sainte Croix River. + +On the morning of the next day, we landed our savage with some supplies +which we gave him. He was well pleased and satisfied at having made this +voyage with us, and took away with him some heads of the savages that had +been killed at Port Fortune. [237] The same day we anchored in a very +pretty cove [238] on the south of the Island of Manan. + +On the 12th of the month, we made sail; and, when under way, the shallop, +which we were towing astern, struck against our barque so violently and +roughly that it made an opening and stove in her upper works, and again in +the recoil broke the iron fastenings of our rudder. At first, we thought +that the first blow had stove in some planks in the lower part, which would +have sunk us; for the wind was so high that all we could do was to carry +our foresail. But finding that the damage was slight, and that there was no +danger, we managed with ropes to repair the rudder as well as we could, so +as to serve us to the end of our voyage. This was not until the 14th of +November, when, at the entrance to Port Royal, we came near being lost on a +point; but God delivered us from this danger as well as from many others to +which we had been exposed. [239] + + +ENDNOTES: + +227. _La Soupconneuse_, the doubtful, Martha's Vineyard. Champlain and + Poutrincourt, in the little French barque, lying low on the water, + creeping along the shore from Chatham to Point Gammon, could hardly + fail to be doubtful whether Martha's Vineyard were an island or a part + of the main land. Lescarbot, speaking of it, says, _et fut appelee + l'Ile Douteuse_. + +228. Nearly twelve leagues in a southwesterly direction from their + anchorage at Stage Harbor in Chatham would bring them to Nobska Point, + at the entrance of the Vineyard Sound. This was the limit of + Champlain's explorations towards the south. + +229. "Called after my own name." viz. _Riviere de Champlain_.--_Vide_ map, + 1612. This river appears to be a tidal passage connecting the Vineyard + Sound and Buzzard's Bay, having Nouamesset and Uncatena Islands on the + south-west, and Nobska Point, Wood's Boll, and Long Neck on the + north-east. On our Coast Survey Charts, it is called Hadley River. Its + length is nearly two miles, in a winding course. The mouth of this + passage is full of boulders, and in a receding tide the current is + rough and boisterous, and would answer well to the description in the + text, as no other river does on the coast from Chatham to Wood's + Holl. On the small French barque, elevated but a little above the + surface of the water, its source in Buzzard's Bay could not be + discovered, especially if they passed round Nobska Point, under the + lee of which they probably obtained a view of the "shoals, and rocks" + which they saw at the mouth of the river. + +230. _A fathom of match on his arm_. This was a rope, made of the tow of + hemp or flax, loosely twisted, and prepared to retain the fire, so + that, when once lighted, it would burn till the whole was consumed. It + was employed in connection with the match-lock, the arm then in common + use. The wheel-lock followed in order of time, which was discharged by + means of a notched wheel of steel, so arranged that its friction, when + in motion, threw sparks of fire into the pan that contained the + powder. The snaphance was a slight improvement upon the wheel-lock. + The flint-lock followed, now half a century since superseded by the + percussion lock and cap. + +231. They did not capture any of the Indians, to be reduced to a species of + slavery, as they intended; but, as will appear further on, inhumanly + butchered several of them, which would seem to have been an act of + revenge rather than of punishment. The intercourse of the French with + the natives of Cape Cod was, on the whole, less satisfactory than that + with the northern tribes along the shores of Maine, New Brunswick, and + Nova Scotia. With the latter they had no hostile conflicts whatever, + although the Indians were sufficiently implacable and revengeful + towards their enemies. Those inhabiting the peninsula of Cape Cod, and + as far north as Cape Anne, were more suspicious, and had apparently + less clear conceptions of personal rights, especially the rights of + property. Might and right were to them identical. Whatever they + desired, they thought they had a right to have, if they had the power + or wit to obtain it. The French came in contact with only two of the + many subordinate tribes that were in possession of the peninsula; + viz., the Monomoyicks at Chatham, and the Nausets at Eastham. The + conflict in both instances grew out of an attempt on the part of the + natives to commit a petty theft. But it is quite possible that the + invasion of their territory by strangers, an unpardonable offence + among civilized people, may have created a feeling of hostility that + found a partial gratification in stealing their property; and, had not + this occasion offered, the stifled feeling of hostility may have + broken out in some other form. In general, they were not subsequently + unfriendly in their intercourse with the English. The Nausets were, + however, the same that sent a shower of arrows upon the Pilgrims in + 1620, at the place called by them the "First Encounter," and not more + than three miles from the spot where the same tribe, in 1605, had + attacked the French, and Slain one of De Monts's men. It must, + however, be said that, beside the invasion of their country, the + Pilgrims had, some days before, rifled the granaries of the natives + dwelling a few miles north of the Nausets, and taken away without + leave a generous quantity of their winter's supply of corn; and this + may have inspired them with a desire to be rid of visitors who helped + themselves to their provisions, the fruit of their summer's toil, + their dependence for the winter already upon them, with so little + ceremony and such unscrupulous selfishness; for such it must have + appeared to the Nausets in their savage and unenlightened state. It is + to be regretted that these excellent men, the Pilgrims, did not more + fully comprehend the moral character of their conduct in this + instance. They lost at the outset a golden opportunity for impressing + upon the minds of the natives the great practical principle enunciated + by our Lord, the foundation of all good neighborhood, [Greek: Panta + oun osa an thelaete ina poiosin hymin hoi anthropoi, houto kai hymeis + poieite autois. Matth]. vii 12.--_Vide Bradford's Hist. Plym. + Plantation_, pp. 82, 83; _Mourt's Relation_, London, 1622, Dexter's + ed., pp. 21, 22, 30, 31, 55. + +232. The latitude of Nobska Point, the most southern limit of their voyage, + is 41 deg. 31', while the latitude of Nauset Harbor, the southern limit of + that of De Monts on the previous year, 1605, is 41 deg. 49'. They + consequently advanced but 18', or eighteen nautical miles, further + south than they did the year before. Had they commenced this year's + explorations where those of the preceding terminated, as Champlain had + advised, they might have explored the whole coast as far as Long + Island Sound. _Vide antea_, pp. 109, 110. + +233. Between the Kennebec and Penobscot. + +234. _Vide antea_, note 177. + +235. _Isles Rangees_, the small islands along the coast south-west of + Machias. _Vide_ map of 1612. + +236. _Petit passage de la Riviere Saincte Croix_, the southern strait + leading into Eastport Harbor. This anchorage appears to have been in + Quoddy Roads between Quoddy Head and Lubeck. + +237. In reporting the stratagem resorted to for decoying the Indians into + the hands of the French at Port Fortune, Champlain passes over the + details of the bloody encounter, doubtless to spare himself and the + reader the painful record; but its results are here distinctly + stated. Compare _antea_, pp. 132, 133. + +238. Sailing from Quoddy Head to Annapolis Bay, they would in their course + pass round the northern point of the Grand Manan; and they probably + anchored in Whale Cove, or perhaps in Long Island Bay, a little + further south. Champlain's map is so oriented that both of these bays + would appear to be on the south of the Grand Manan. _Vide_ map of + 1612. + +239. Champlain had now completed his survey south of the Bay of Fundy. He + had traced the shore-line with its sinuosities and its numberless + islands far beyond the two distinguished headlands, Cape sable and + Cape Cod, which respectively mark the entrance to the Gulf of Maine. + The priority of these observations, particularly with reference to the + habits, mode of life, and character of the aborigines, invests them + with an unusual interest and value. Anterior to the visits of + Champlain, the natives on this coast had come in contact with + Europeans but rarely and incidentally, altogether too little + certainly, if we except those residing on the southern coast of Nova + Scotia, to have any modifying effect upon their manners, customs, or + mode of life. What Champlain reports, therefore, of the Indians, is + true of them in their purely savage state, untouched by any influences + of European civilization. This distinguishes the record, and gives to + it a special importance. + + + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +RETURN FROM THE FOREGOING DISCOVERIES, AND WHAT TRANSPIRED DURING THE +WINTER. + +Upon our arrival, Lescarbot, who had remained at the settlement, assisted +by the others who had stayed there, welcomed us with a humorous +entertainment. [240] + +Having landed and had time to take breath, each one began to make little +gardens, I among the rest attending to mine, in order in the spring to sow +several kinds of seeds which had been brought from France, and which grew +very well in all the gardens. + +Sieur de Poutrincourt, moreover, had a water-mill built nearly a league and +a half from our settlement, near the point where grain had been planted. +This mill [241] was built at a fall, on a little river which is not +navigable on account of the large number of rocks in it, and which falls +into a small lake. In this place, there is such an abundance of herring in +their season that shallops could be loaded with them, if one were to take +the trouble to bring the requisite apparatus. The savages also of this +region come here sometimes to fish. A quantity of charcoal was made by us +for our forge. During the winter, in order not to remain idle, I undertook +the building of a road along the wood to a little, river or brook, which we +named La Truitiere, [242] there being many trout there. I asked Sieur de +Poutrincourt for two or three men, which he gave me to assist in making +this passage-way. I got along so well that in a little while I had the road +through. It extends through to trout-brook, and measures nearly two +thousand paces. It served us as a walk under the shelter of the trees, +which I had left on both sides. This led Sieur de Poutrincourt to determine +to make another through the woods, in order that we might go straight to +the mouth of Port Royal, it being a distance of nearly three leagues and a +half by land from our settlement. He had this commenced and continued for +about half a league from La Truitiere; but he did not finish it, as the +undertaking was too laborious, and he was occupied by other things at the +time more necessary. Some time after our arrival, we saw a shallop +containing savages, who told us that a savage, who was one of our friends, +had been killed by those belonging to the place whence they came, which was +Norumbegue, in revenge for the killing of the men of Norumbegue and +Quinibequy by Iouaniscou, also a savage, and his followers, as I have +before related; and that some Etechemins had informed the savage Secondon, +who was with us at that time. + +The commander of the shallop was the savage named Ouagimou, who was on +terms of friendship with Bessabez, chief of the river Norumbegue, of whom +he asked the body of Panounias, [243] who had been killed. The latter +granted it to him, begging him to tell his friends that he was very sorry +for his death, and assuring him that it was without his knowledge that he +had been killed, and that, inasmuch as it was not his fault, he begged him +to tell them that he desired they might continue to live as friends. This +Ouagimou promised to do upon his return. He said to us that he was very +uneasy until he got away from them, whatever friendship they might show +him, since they were liable to change; and he feared that they would treat +him in the same manner as they had the one who had been killed. +Accordingly, he did not tarry long after being dismissed. He took the body +in his shallop from Norumbegue to our settlement, a distance of fifty +leagues. + +As soon as the body was brought on shore, his relatives and friends began +to shout by his side, having painted their entire face with black, which is +their mode of mourning. After lamenting much, they took a quantity of +tobacco and two or three dogs and other things belonging to the deceased, +and burned them some thousand paces from our settlement on the +sea-shore. Their cries continued until they returned to their cabin. + +The next day they took the body of the deceased and wrapped it in a red +covering, which Mabretou, chief of this place, urgently implored me to give +him, since it was handsome and large. He gave it to the relatives of the +deceased, who thanked me very much for it. After thus; wrapping up the +body, they decorated it with several kinds of _matachiats_; that is, +strings of beads and bracelets of diverse colors. They painted the face, +and put on the head many feathers and other things, the finest they had. +Then they placed the body on its knees between two sticks, with another +under the arms to sustain it. Around the body were the mother, wife, and +others of the relatives and friends of the deceased, both women and girls, +howling like dogs. + +While the women and girls were shrieking, the savage named Mabretou made an +address to his companions on the death of the deceased, urging all to take +vengeance for the wickedness and treachery committed by the subjects of +Bessabez, and to make war upon them as speedily as possible. All agreed to +do so in the spring. + +After the harangue was finished and the cries had ceased, they carried the +body of the deceased to another cabin. After smoking tobacco together, +they wrapped it in an elk-skin likewise; and, binding it very securely, +they kept it until there should be a larger number of savages present, from +each one of whom the brother of the deceased expected to receive presents, +it being their custom to give them to those who have lost fathers, mothers, +wives, brothers, or sisters. + +On the night of the 26th of December, there was a southeast wind, which +blew down several trees. On the last day of December, it began to snow, +which continued until the morning of the next day. On the both of January +following, 1607, Sieur de Poutrincourt, desiring to ascend the river +Equille, [244] found it at a distance of some two leagues from our +settlement sealed with ice, which caused him to return, not being able to +advance any farther. On the 8th of February, some pieces of ice began to +flow down from the upper part of the river into the harbor, which only +freezes along the shore. On the both of May following, it snowed all night; +and, towards the end of the month, there were heavy hoar-frosts, which +lasted until the 10th or 12th of June, when all the trees were covered with +leaves, except the oaks, which do not leaf out until about the 15th. The +winter was not so severe as on the preceding years, nor did the snow +continue so long on the ground. It rained very often, so that the savages +suffered a severe famine, owing to the small quantity of snow. Sieur de +Poutrincourt supported a part of them who were with us; namely, Mabretou, +his wife and children, and some others. + +We spent this winter very pleasantly, and fared generously by means of the +ORDRE DE BON TEMPS, which I introduced. This all found useful for their +health, and more advantageous than all the medicines that could have been +used. By the rules of the order, a chain was put, with some little +ceremonies, on the neck of one of our company, commissioning him for the +day to go a hunting. The next day it was conferred upon another, and thus +in succession. All exerted themselves to the utmost to see who would do the +best and bring home the finest game. We found this a very good arrangement, +as did also the savages who were with us. [245] + +There were some cases of _mal de la terre_ among us, which was, however, +not so violent as in the previous years. Nevertheless, seven died from it, +and another from an arrow wound, which he had received from the savages at +Port Fortune. [246] + +Our surgeon, named Master Estienne, opened some of the bodies, as we did +the previous years, and found almost all the interior parts affected. Eight +or ten of the sick got well by spring. + +At the beginning of March and of April, all began to prepare gardens, so as +to plant seeds in May, which is the proper time for it. They grew as well +as in France, but were somewhat later. I think France is at least a month +and a half more forward. As I have stated, the time to plant is in May, +although one can sometimes do so in April; yet the seeds planted then do +not come forward any faster than those planted in May, when the cold can no +longer damage the plants except those which are very tender, since there +are many which cannot endure the hoar-frosts, unless great care and +attention be exercised. + +On the 24th of May, we perceived a small barque [247] of six or seven tons' +burthen, which we sent men to reconnoitre; and it was found to be a young +man from St. Malo, named Chevalier, who brought letters from Sieur de Monts +to Sieur de Poutrincourt, by which he directed him to bring back his +company to France. [248] He also announced to us the birth of Monseigneur, +the Duke of Orleans, to our delight, in honor of which event we made +bonfires and chanted the _Te Deum_. [249] + +Between the beginning and the 20th of June, some thirty or forty savages +assembled in this place in order to make war upon the Almouchiquois, and +revenge the death of Panounias, who was interred by the savages according +to their custom, who gave afterwards a quantity of peltry to a brother of +his.[250] The presents being made, all of them set out from this place on +the 29th of June for Choueacoet, which is the country of the Almouchiquois, +to engage in the war. + +Some days after the arrival of the above Chevalier, Sieur de Poutrincourt +sent him to the rivers St. John [251] and St. Croix [252] to trade for +furs. But he did not permit him to go without men to bring back the barque, +since some had reported that he desired to return to France with the vessel +in which he had come, and leave us in our settlement. Lescarbot was one of +those who accompanied him, who up to this time had not left Port Royal. +This is the farthest he went, only fourteen or fifteen leagues beyond Port +Royal. + +While awaiting the return of Chevalier, Sieur de Poutrincourt went to the +head of Baye Francoise in a shallop with seven or eight men. Leaving the +harbor and heading northeast a quarter east for some twenty-five leagues +along the coast, we arrived at a cape where Sieur de Poutrincourt desired +to ascend a cliff more than thirty fathoms high, in doing which he came +near losing his life. For, having reached the top of the rock which is very +narrow, and which he had ascended with much difficulty, the summit trembled +beneath him. The reason was that, in course of time, moss had gathered +there four or five feet in thickness, and, not being solid, trembled when +one was on top of it, and very often when one stepped on a stone three or +four others fell down. Accordingly, having gone up with difficulty, he +experienced still greater in coming down, although some sailors, men very +dexterous in climbing, carried him a hawser, a rope of medium size, by +means of which he descended, This place was named Cap de Poutrincourt, +[253] and is in latitude 45 deg. 40'. + +We went as far as the head of this bay, but saw nothing but certain white +stones suitable for making lime, yet they are found only in small +quantities. We saw also on some islands a great number of gulls. We +captured as many of them as we wished. We made the tour of the bay, in +order to go to the Port aux Mines where I had previously been, [254] and +whither I conducted Sieur de Poutrincourt, who collected some little pieces +of copper with great difficulty. All this bay has a circuit of perhaps +twenty leagues, with a little river at its head, which is very sluggish and +contains but little water. There are many other little brooks, and some +places where there are good harbors at high tide, which rises here five +fathoms. In one of these harbors three or four leagues north of Cap de +Poutrincourt, we found a very old cross all covered with moss and almost +all rotten, a plain indication that before this there had been Christians +there. All of this country is covered with dense forests, and with some +exceptions is not very attractive. [255] + +From the Port aux Mines [256] we returned to our settlement. In this bay +there are strong tidal currents running in a south-westerly direction. + +On the 12th of July, Ralleau, secretary of Sieur de Monts, arrived with +three others in a shallop from a place called Niganis, [257] distant from +Port Royal some hundred and sixty or hundred and seventy leagues, +confirming the report which Chevalier had brought to Sieur de Poutrincourt. + +On the 3d of July, [258] three barques were fitted out to send the men and +supplies, which were at our settlement, to Canseau, distant one hundred and +fifteen leagues from our settlement, and in latitude 45 deg. 20', where the +vessel [259] was engaged in fishing, which was to carry us back to France. + +Sieur de Poutrincourt sent back all his companions, but remained with eight +others at the settlement, so as to carry to France some grain not yet quite +ripe. [260] + +On the 10th of August, Mabretou arrived from the war, who told us that he +had been at Choueacoet, and had killed twenty savages and wounded ten or +twelve; also that Onemechin, chief of that place, Marchin, and one other, +had been killed by Sasinou, chief of the river of Quinibequy, who was +afterwards killed by the companions of Onemechin and Marchin. All this war +was simply on account of the savage Panounias, one of our friends who, as I +have said above, had been killed at Norumbegue by the followers of +Onemechin and Marchin. At present, the chiefs in place of Onemechin, +Marchin, and Sasinou are their sons: namely, for Sasinou, Pememen; Abriou +for his father, Marchin; and for Onemechin, Queconsicq. The two latter were +wounded by the followers of Mabretou, who seized them under pretence of +friendship, as is their fashion, something which both sides have to guard +against. [261] + +ENDNOTES: + +240. Lescarbot, the author of a History of New France often referred to in + our notes, published a volume entitled "LES MUSES DE LA NOUVELLE + FRANCE," in which may be found the play entitled LE THEATRE DE + NEPTUNE, which he composed to celebrate the return of this expedition. + +241. The mill is represented on Champlain's map of Port Royal as situated + on the stream which he calls _Riviere du Moulin_, the River of the + Mill. This is Allen River; and the site of the mill was a short + distance south-east of the "point where corn had been planted," which + was on the spot now occupied by the village of Annapolis. + +242. _Vide antea_, note 212. see also the map of Port Royal, where the road + is delineated, p. 24. + +243. This Indian Panounias and his wife had accompanied De Monts in 1605, + on his expedition to Cape Cod.--_Vide_ antea, p. 55. + +244. Now the Annapolis River. + +245. The conceit of this novel order was a happy one, as it served to + dispel the gloom of a long winter in the forests of La Cadie, as well + as to improve the quality and variety of their diet. The _noblesse_, + or gentlemen of the party, were fifteen, who served in turn and for a + single day as caterer or steward, the turn of each recurring once in + fifteen days. It was their duty to add to the ordinary fare such + delicate fish or game as could be captured or secured by each for his + particular day. They always had some delicacy at breakfast; but the + dinner was the great banquet, when the most imposing ceremony was + observed. + +246. Champlain does not inform us how many of Poutrincourt's party were + killed in the affray at Chatham. He mentions one as killed on the + spot. He speaks of carrying away the "dead bodies" for burial. He also + says they made a "deadly assault" upon "five or six of our company;" + and another appears to have died of his wounds after their return to + Port Royal, as stated in the text. + +247. _Une petite barque_. The French barque was a small vessel or large + boat, rigged with two masts; and those employed by De Monts along our + coast varied from six to eighteen tons burden, and must not be + confounded with our modern bark, which is generally much larger. + + The _vaisseau_, often mentioned by Champlain, included all large + vessels, those used for fishing, the fur-trade, and the transportation + of men and supplies for the colony. + + The _chaloupe_ was a row-boat of convenient size for penetrating + shallow places, was dragged behind the barque in the explorations of + our coast, and used for minor investigations of rivers and estuaries. + + The _patache_, an advice-boat, is rarely used by Champlain, and then + in the place of the shallop. + +248. It Seems that young Chevalier had come out in the "Jonas," the same + ship that had brought out Poutrincourt, Lescarbot, and others, the + year before. It had stopped at Canseau to fish for cod. It brought the + unwelcome news that the company of De Monts had been broken up; that + the Hollanders, conducted by a "French traitor named La Jeunesse," had + destroyed the fur-trading establishments on the St. Lawrence, which + rendered it impracticable to sustain, as heretofore, the expenses of + the company. The monopoly of the fur-trade, granted to De Monts for + ten years, had been rescinded by the King's Council. "We were very + sad," says Lescarbot, "to see so fine and holy an undertaking broken + off, and that so many labors and perils endured had resulted in + nothing: and that the hope of establishing there the name of God and + the Catholic Faith had disappeared. Notwithstanding, after M. de + Poutrincourt had a long while mused hereupon, he said that, although + he should have none to come with him, except his family, he would not + forsake the enterprise."--_His. Nou. France_, par M. Lescarbot. + Paris, 1612. pp. 591-2. + +249. On the 16th of April, 1607, was born the second son of Henry IV. by + Marie de Medicis, who received the title, Le Duc d'Orleans. In France, + public rejoicings were universal. On the 22d of the month, he was + invested with the insignia of the Order of St. Michael and the Holy + Ghost with great pomp, on which occasion a banquet was given by the + King in the great hall at Fontainebleau, and in the evening the park + was illuminated by bonfires and a pyrotechnic display, which was + witnessed by a vast concourse of people. The young prince was baptized + privately by the Cardinal de Gondy, but the state ceremonies of his + christening were delayed, and appear never to have taken place: he + died in the fifth year of his age, never having received any Christian + name.--_Vide the Life of Marie de Medicis_, by Miss Pardoe, London, + 1852, Vol. I. p. 416; _Memoirs of the Duke of Sully_, Lennox, trans., + Phila., 1817, Vol. IV. p. 140. In New France, the little colony at + Port Royal attested their loyalty by suitable manifestations of + joy. "As the day declined," Says Lescarbot, "we made bonfires to + celebrate the birth of Monseigneur le Duc d'Orleans, and caused our + cannon and falconets to thunder forth again, accompanied with plenty + of musket-shots, having before for this purpose chanted a _Te Deum_." + --_Vide His. Nou. France_, Paris, 1612, p.594. + +250. Lescarbot says that about four hundred set out for the war against the + Almouchiquois, at Choueacoet, or Saco. The savages were nearly two + months in assembling themselves together. Mabretou had sent out his + two sons, Actaudin and Actaudinech, to summon them to come to Port + Royal as a rendezvous. They came from the river St. John, and from the + region of Gaspe. Their purpose was accomplished, as will appear in the + sequel. + +251. At St. John, they visited the cabin of Secondon, the Sagamore, with + whom they bartered for some furs. Lescarbot, who was in the + expedition, says, "The town of Ouigoudy was a great enclosure upon a + hill, compassed about with high and small trees, tied one against + another; and within it many cabins, great and small, one of which was + as large as a market-hall, wherein many households resided." In the + cabin of Secondon. they saw some eighty or a hundred savages, all + nearly naked. They were celebrating a feast which they call _Tabagie_. + Their chief made his warriors pass in review before his guests.--_Vide + His. Nou. France_, par M. Lescarbot. Paris, 1612. p. 598. + +252. They found sack at St. Croix that had been left there by De Monts's + colony three years before, of which they drank. Casks were still lying + in the deserted court-yard: and others had been used as fuel by + mariners, who had chanced to come there. + +253. De Laet's map has C. de Poutrincourt; the map of the English and + French Commissaries, C. Fendu or split Cape. Halliburton has Split + Cape, so likewise has the Admiralty map of 1860. + + It is situated at the entrance of the Basin of Mines, and about eight + miles southwest of Parrsborough. The point of this cape is in latitude + 45 deg. 20'. + +254. _Vide antea_, p. 26. + +255. The author is here speaking of the country about the Basin of Mines. + The river at the head of the bay is the Shubenacadie. It is not easy + to determine where the moss-covered cross was found. The distance from + Cap de Poutrincourt is indefinite, and the direction could not have + been exactly north. There is too much uncertainty to warrant even a + conjecture as to its locality. + +256. The port aux Mines is Advocate's Harbor.--_Vide antea_, p. 26, and + note 67. + +257. Niganis is a small Bay in the Island of Cape Breton, south of Cape + North: by De Laet called _Ninganis_; English, and French Commissaries, + _Niganishe_; modern maps, _Niganish_. + +258. The _3d of July_ was doubtless an error of the printer for the 30th, + as appears from the later date in the preceding paragraph, and the + statement of Lescarbot, that he left on the 30th of July. He says they + had one large barque, two small ones, and a shallop. One of the small + ones was sent before, while the other two followed on the 30th; and he + adds that Poutrincourt remained eleven days longer to await the + ripening of their grain, which agrees with Champlain's subsequent + statement, that he left with Poutrincourt on the 11th of + August.--_Vide His. Nou. France_, 1612, p. 603. + +259. The "Jonas."--_Vide antea_, p. 146. + +260. _Vide antea_, note 258. + +261. The implacable character of the American Indian is well illustrated in + this skirmish which took place at Saco. The old chief Mabretou, whose + life had been prolonged through several generations, had inspired his + allies to revenge, and had been present at the conflict. The Indian + Panounias had been killed in an affray, the particular cause of which + is not stated. To avenge his death, many lives were lost on both + sides. The two chiefs of Saco were slain, and in turn the author of + their death perished by the hand of their friends. Lescarbot informs + us that Champdore, under Poutrincourt, subsequently visited Saco, and + concluded a formal peace between the belligerent parties, emphasizing + its importance by impressive forms, and ceremonies. + + + + +CHAPTER XVII. + +THE SETTLEMENT ABANDONED.--RETURN TO FRANCE OF SIEUR DE POUTRINCOURT AND +ALL HIS COMPANY. + +On the 11th of August, we set out from our settlement in a shallop, and +coasted along as far as Cape Fourchu, where I had previously been. + +Continuing our course along the coast as far as Cap de la Heve, where we +first landed with Sieur de Monts, on the 8th of May, 1604, [262] we +examined the coast from this place as far as Canseau, a distance of nearly +sixty leagues. This I had not yet done, and I observed it very carefully, +making a map of it as of the other coasts. + +Departing from Cap de la Heve, we went as far as Sesambre, an island so +called by some people from St. Malo, [263] and distant fifteen leagues from +La Heve. Along the route are a large number of islands, which we named Les +Martyres, [264] since some Frenchmen were once killed there by the savages. +These islands lie in several inlets and bays. In one of them is a river +named St. Marguerite, [265] distant seven leagues from Sesambre, which is +in latitude 44 deg. 25'. The islands and coasts are thickly covered with pines, +firs, birches, and other trees of inferior quality. Fish and also fowl are +abundant. + +After leaving Sesambre, we passed a bay which is unobstructed, of seven or +eight leagues in extent, with no islands except at the extremity, where is +the mouth of a small river, containing but little water. [266] Then, +heading north-east a quarter east, we arrived at a harbor distant eight +leagues from Sesambre, which is very suitable for vessels of a hundred or a +hundred and twenty tons. At its entrance is an island from which one can +walk to the main land at low tide. We named this place Port Saincte +Helaine, [267] which is in latitude 44 deg. 40' more or less. + +From this place we proceeded to a bay called La Baye de Toutes Isles, [268] +of some fourteen or fifteen leagues in extent, a dangerous place on account +of the presence of banks, shoals, and reefs. The country presents a very +unfavorable appearance, being filled with the same kind of trees which I +have mentioned before. Here we encountered bad weather. + +Hence we passed on near a river, six leagues distant, called Riviere de +l'Isle Verte,[269] there being a green island at its entrance. This short +distance which we traversed is filled with numerous rocks extending nearly +a league out to sea, where the breakers are high, the latitude being 45 deg. +15'. + +Thence we went to a place where there is an inlet, with two or three +islands, and a very good harbor, [270] distant three leagues from l'Isle +Verte. We passed also by several islands near and in a line with each +other, which we named Isles Rangees, [271] and which are distant six or +seven leagues from l'Isle Verte. Afterwards we passed by another bay [272] +containing several islands, and proceeded to a place where we found a +vessel engaged in fishing between some islands, which are a short distance +from the main land, and distant four leagues from the Rangees. This place +we named Port de Savalette, [273] the name of the master of the vessel +engaged in fishing, a Basque, who entertained us bountifully; and was very +glad to see us, since there were savages there who purposed some harm to +him, which we prevented. [274] + +Leaving this place, we arrived on the 27th of the month at Canseau, distant +six leagues from Port de Savalette, having passed on our way a large number +of islands. At Canseau, we found that the three barques had arrived at port +in safety. Champdore and Lescarbot came out to receive us. We also found +the vessel ready to sail, having finished its fishing and awaiting only +fair weather to return. Meanwhile, we had much enjoyment among these +islands, where we found the greatest possible quantity of raspberries. + +All the coast which we passed along from Cape Sable to this place is +moderately high and rocky, in most places bordered by numerous islands and +breakers, which extend out to sea nearly two leagues in places, and are +very unfavorable for the approach of vessels. Yet there cannot but be good +harbors and roadsteads along the coasts and islands, if they were explored. +As to the country, it is worse and less promising than in other places +which we had seen, except on some rivers or brooks, where it is very +pleasant; but there is no doubt that the winter in these regions is cold, +lasting from six to seven months. + +The harbor of Canseau [275] is a place surrounded by islands, +to which the approach is very difficult, except in fair weather, on account +of the rocks and breakers about it. Fishing, both green and dry, is carried +on here. + +From this place to the Island of Cape Breton, which is in latitude 45 deg. 45' +and 14 deg. 50' of the deflection of the magnetic needle, [276] it is eight +leagues, and to Cape Breton twenty-five. Between the two there is a large +bay, [277] extending Some nine or ten leagues into the interior and making +a passage between the Island of Cape Breton and the main land through to +the great Bay of St. Lawrence, by which they go to Gaspe and Isle Percee, +where fishing is carried on. This passage along the Island of Cape Breton +is very narrow. Although there is water enough, large vessels do not pass +there at all on account of the strong currents and the impetuosity of the +tides which prevail. This we named Le Passage Courant, [278] and it is in +latitude 45 deg. 45'. + +The Island of Cape Breton is of a triangular shape, with a circuit of about +eighty leagues. Most of the country is mountainous, yet in some parts very +pleasant. In the centre of it there is a kind of lake, [279] where the sea +enters by the north a quarter north-west, and also by the south a quarter +Southeast. [280] Here are many islands filled with plenty of game, and +shell-fish of various kinds, including oysters, which, however, are not of +very good flavor. In this place there are two harbors, where fishing is +carried on; namely, Le Port aux Anglois, [281] distant from Cape Breton +some two or three leagues, and Niganis, eighteen or twenty leagues north a +quarter north-west. The Portuguese once made an attempt to settle this +island, and spent a winter here; but the inclemency of the season and the +cold caused them to abandon their settlement. + +On the 3rd of September, we set out from Canseau. On the 4th, we were off +Sable Island. On the 6th, we reached the Grand Bank, where the catching of +green fish is carried on, in latitude 45 deg. 30'. On the 26th, we entered the +sound near the shores of Brittany and England, in sixty-five fathoms of +water and in latitude 49 deg. 30'. On the 28th, we put in at Roscou, [282] in +lower Brittany, where we were detained by bad weather until the last day of +September, when, the wind coming round favorable, we put to sea in order to +pursue our route to St. Malo, [283] which formed the termination of these +voyages, in which God had guided us without shipwreck or danger. + + +END OF THE VOYAGES FROM THE YEAR 1604 TO 1608. + +ENDNOTES: + +262. _Vide antea_, p. 9 and note 22. + +263. Sesambre. This name was probably suggested by the little islet, + _Cezembre_, one of several on which are military works for the defence + of St. Malo. On De Laet's map of 1633, it is written _Sesembre_; on + that of Charlevoix. 1744, _Sincenibre_. It now appears on the + Admiralty maps corrupted into Sambro. There is a cape and a harbor + near this island which bear the same name. + +264. The islands stretching along from Cap de la Heve to Sambro Island are + called the _Martyres Iles_ on De Laet's map, 1633. + +265. The bay into which this river empties still retains the name of + St. Margaret. + +266. Halifax Harbor. Its Indian name was Chebucto, written on the map of + the English and French Commissaries _Shebuctu_. On Champlain's map, + 1612, as likewise on that of De Laet, 1633, it is called "_Baye + Senne_," perhaps from _saine_, signifying the unobstructed bay. + +267. Eight leagues from the Island Sesambre or Sambro Island would take + them to Perpisawick Inlet, which is doubtless _Le Port Saincte + Helaine_ of Champlain. The latitude of this harbor is 44 deg. 41', + differing but a single minute from that of the text, which is + extraordinary, the usual variation being from ten to thirty minutes. + +268. Nicomtau Bay is fifteen leagues from Perpisawick Inlet, but _La Baye + de Toutes Isles_ is, more strictly speaking, an archipelago, extending + along the coast, say from Clam Bay to Liscomb Point, as may be seen by + reference to Champlain's map, 1612, and that of De Laet, 1633, + Cruxius, 1660, and of Charlevoix, 1744. The north-eastern portion of + this archipelago is now called, according to Laverdiere, Island Bay. + +269. _Riviere de l'Isle Verte_, or Green Island River, is the River + St. Mary; and Green Island is Wedge Island near its mouth. The + latitude at the mouth of the river is 45 deg. 3'. This little island is + called _I. Verte_ on De Laet's map, and likewise on that of + Charlevoix; on the map of the English and French Commissaries, Liscomb + or Green Island. + +270. This inlet has now the incongruous name of Country Harbor: the three + islands at its mouth are Harbor, Goose, and Green Islands. The inlet + is called Mocodome on Charlevoix's map. + +271. There are several islets on the east of St. Catharine's River, near + the shore, which Laverdiere suggests are the _Isles Rangees_. They + are exceedingly small, and no name is given them on the Admiralty + charts. + +272. Tor Bay. + +273. _Le Port de Savalette_. Obviously White Haven, which is four leagues + from the Rangees and six from Canseau, as stated in the text. + Lescarbot gives a very interesting account of Captain Savalette, the + old Basque fisherman, who had made forty-two voyages into these + waters. He had been eminently successful in fishing, having taken + daily, according to his own account, fifty crowns' worth of codfish, + and expected his voyage would yield, ten thousand francs. His vessel + was of eighty tons burden, and could take in a hundred thousand dry + codfish. He was well known, and a great favorite with the voyagers to + this coast. He was from St. Jean de Luz, a small seaport town in the + department of the Lower Pyrenees in France, near the borders of Spain, + distinguished even at this day for its fishing interest. + +274. The Indians were in the habit of selecting from day to day the best of + Savalette's fish when they came in, and appropriating them to their + own use, _nolens volens_. + +275. _Canseau_. Currency has been given to an idle fancy that this name was + derived from that of a French navigator, but it has been abundantly + disproved by the Abbe Laverdiere. It is undoubtedly a word of Indian + origin. + +276. The variation of the magnetic needle in 1871, fifteen miles South of + the Harbor of Canseau, was, according to the Admiralty charts, 23 + degrees west. The magnetic needle was employed in navigation as early + as the year 1200, and its variation had been discovered before the + time of Columbus. But for a long period its variation was supposed to + be fixed; that is to say, was supposed to be always the same in the + same locality. A few years before Champlain made his voyages to + America, it was discovered that its variation in Paris was not fixed, + but that it changed from year to year. If Champlain was aware of this, + his design in noting its exact variation, as he did at numerous points + on our coast, may have been to furnish data for determining at some + future day whether the variation were changeable here as well as in + France. But, whether he was aware of the discovery then recently made + in Paris or not, he probably intended, by noting the declination of + the needle, to indicate his longitude, at least approximately. + +277. Chedabucto Bay. + +278. The Strait of Canseau. Champlain gives it on his map, 1612. _Pasage du + glas;_ De Laet, 1633, _Passage du glas;_ Creuxius, 1660, Fretum + Campseium; Charlevoix, 1744, _Passage de Canceau_. It appears from the + above that the early name was soon superseded by that which it now + bears. + +279. Now called _La Bras d'Or_, The Golden Arm. + +280. There is, in fact, no passage of La Bras d'Or on the south-west; and + Champlain corrects his error, as may be seen by reference to his map + of 1612. It may also be stated that the sea enters from the + north-east. _Nordouest_ in the original is here probably a + typographical error for _nordest_. There are, indeed, two passages, + both on the north-east, distinguished as the Great and the Little Bras + d'Or. + +281. _Le Port aux Anglois_, the Harbor of the English. On De Laet's map, + Port aux Angloix. This is the Harbor of Louisburgh, famous in the + history of the Island of Cape Breton. + +282. Roscofs, a small seaport town. On Mercator's Atlas of 1623, it is + written Roscou, as in the text. + +283. According to Lescarbot, they remained at St. Malo eight days, when + they went in a barque to Honfleur, narrowly escaping + shipwreck. Poutrincourt proceeded to Paris, where he exhibited to + Henry IV. corn, wheat, rye, barley, and oats, products of the colony + which he had so often promised to cherish, but whose means of + subsistence he had now nevertheless ungraciously taken away. + Poutrincourt also presented to him five _oustards_, or wild geese, + which he had bred from the shell. The king was greatly delighted with + them, and had them preserved at Fontainebleau. These exhibitions of + the products of New France had the desired effect upon the generous + heart of Henry IV.; and De Monts's monopoly of the fur-trade was + renewed for one year, to furnish some slight aid in establishing his + colonies in New France. + + + + +THE VOYAGES +TO THE +GREAT RIVER ST. LAWRENCE, +MADE BY +SIEUR DE CHAMPLAIN, +CAPTAIN IN ORDINARY TO THE KING IN THE MARINE, +FROM THE YEAR 1608 TO THAT OF 1612. + + + +CHAPTER I. + +DETERMINATION OF SIEUR DE MONTS TO MAKE EXPLORATIONS IN THE INTERIOR; HIS +COMMISSION, AND ITS INFRINGEMENT BY THE BASQUES, WHO DISARMED THE VESSEL OF +PONT GRAVE; AND THE AGREEMENT BETWEEN THEM WHICH THEY SUBSEQUENTLY MADE. + + +Having returned to France after a stay of three years in New France, [283] +I proceeded to Sieur de Monts, and related to him the principal events of +which I had been a witness since his departure, and gave him the map and +plan of the most remarkable coasts and harbors there. + +Some time afterward, Sieur de Monts determined to continue his undertaking, +and complete the exploration of the interior along the great river +St. Lawrence, where I had been by order of the late King Henry the Great +[284] in the year 1603, for a distance of some hundred and eighty leagues, +commencing in latitude 48 deg. 40', that is, at Gaspe, at the entrance of the +river, as far as the great fall, which is in latitude 45 deg. and some minutes, +where our exploration ended, and where boats could not pass as we then +thought, since we had not made a careful examination of it as we have since +done. [285] + +Now after Sieur de Monts had conferred with me several times in regard to +his purposes concerning the exploration, he resolved to continue so noble +and meritorious an undertaking, notwithstanding the hardships and labors of +the past. He honored me with his lieutenancy for the voyage; and, in order +to carry out his purpose, he had two vessels equipped, one commanded by +Pont Grave, who was commissioned to trade with the savages of the country +and bring back the vessels, while I was to winter in the country. + +Sieur de Monts, for the purpose of defraying the expenses of the +expedition, obtained letters from his Majesty for one year, by which all +persons were forbidden to traffic in peltry with the savages, on penalties +stated in the following commission:-- + + +HENRY BY THE GRACE OF GOD KING OF FRANCE AND NAVARRE, to our beloved and +faithful Councillors, the officers of our Admiralty in Normandy, Brittany, +and Guienne, bailiffs, marshals, prevosts, judges, or their lieutenants, +and to each one of them, according to his authority, throughout the extent +of their powers, jurisdictions, and precincts, greeting: + +Acting upon the information which has been given us by those who have +returned from New France, respecting the good quality and fertility of the +lands of that country, and the disposition of the people to accept the +knowledge of God, We have resolved to continue the settlement previously +undertaken there, in order that our subjects may go there to trade without +hinderance. And in view of the proposition to us of Sieur de Monts, +Gentleman in Ordinary of our chamber, and our Lieutenant-General in that +country, to make a settlement, on condition of our giving him means and +supplies for sustaining the expense of it, [286] it has pleased us to +promise and assure him that none of our subjects but himself shall be +permitted to trade in peltry and other merchandise, for the period of one +year only, in the lands, regions, harbors, rivers, and highways throughout +the extent of his jurisdiction: this We desire to have fulfilled. For these +causes and other considerations impelling us thereto, We command and decree +that each one of you, throughout the extent of your powers, jurisdictions, +and precincts, shall act in our stead and carry out our will in distinctly +prohibiting and forbidding all merchants, masters, and captains of vessels, +also sailors and others of our subjects, of whatever rank and profession, +to fit out any vessels, in which to go themselves or send others in order +to engage in trade or barter in peltry and other things with the savages of +New France, to visit, trade, or communicate with them during the space of +one year, within the jurisdiction of Sieur de Monts, on penalty of +disobedience, and the entire confiscation of their vessels, supplies, arms, +and merchandise for the benefit of Sieur de Monts; and, in order that the +punishment of their disobedience may be assured, you will allow, as We have +and do allow, the aforesaid Sieur de Monts or his lieutenants to seize, +apprehend, and arrest all violators of our present prohibition and order, +also their vessels, merchandise, arms, supplies, and victuals, in order to +take and deliver them up to the hands of justice, so that action may be +taken not only against the persons, but also the property of the offenders, +as the case shall require. This is our will, and We bid you to have it at +once read and published in all localities and public places within your +authority and jurisdiction, as you may deem necessary, by the first one of +our officers or sergeants in accordance with this requisition, by virtue of +these presents, or a copy of the same, properly attested once only by one +of our well-beloved and faithful councillors, notaries, and secretaries, to +which it is Our will that credence should be given as to the present +original, in order that none of our subjects may claim ground for +ignorance, but that all may obey and act in accordance with Our will in +this matter. We order, moreover, all captains of vessels, mates, and second +mates, and sailors of the same, and others on board of vessels or ships in +the ports and harbors of the aforesaid country, to permit, as We have done, +Sieur de Monts, and others possessing power and authority from him, to +search the aforesaid vessels which shall have engaged in the fur-trade +after the present prohibition shall have been made known to them. It is Our +will that, upon the requisition, of the aforesaid Sieur de Monts, his +lieutenants, and others having authority, you should proceed against the +disobedient and offenders, as the case may require: to this end. We give +you power, authority, commission, and special mandate, notwithstanding the +act of our Council of the 17th day of July last, [287] any hue and cry, +Norman charter, accusation, objection, or appeals of whatsoever kind; on +account of which, and for fear of disregarding which, it is Our will that +there should be no delay, and, if any of these occur, We have withheld and +reserved cognizance of the same to Ourselves and our Council, apart from +all other judges, and have forbidden and prohibited the same to all our +courts and judges: for this is Our pleasure. + +Given at Paris the seventh day of January, in the year of grace, sixteen +hundred and eight, and the nineteenth of Our reign. Signed, HENRY. + + +And lower down, By the King, Delomenie. And sealed with the single label of +the great seal of yellow wax. + +Collated with the original by me, Councillor, Notary, and secretary of the +King. + +I proceeded to Honfleur for embarkation, where I found the vessel of Pont +Grave in readiness. He left port on the 5th of April. I did so on the 13th, +arriving at the Grand Bank on the 15th of May, in latitude 45 deg. 15'. On the +26th, we sighted Cape St. Mary,[288] in latitude 46 deg. 45', on the Island of +Newfoundland. On the 27th of the month, we sighted Cape St. Lawrence, on +Cape Breton, and also the Island of St. Paul, distant eighty-three leagues +from Cape St. Mary.[289] On the 30th, we sighted Isle Percee and +Gaspe,[290] in latitude 48 deg. 40', distant from Cape St. Lawrence from +seventy to seventy-five leagues. + +On the 3d of June, we arrived before Tadoussac, distant from Gaspe from +eighty to ninety leagues; and we anchored in the roadstead of +Tadoussac,[291] a league distant from the harbor, which latter is a kind of +cove at the mouth of the river Saguenay, where the tide is very remarkable +on account of its rapidity, and where there are sometimes violent winds, +bringing severe cold. It is maintained that from the harbor of Tadoussac it +is some forty-five or fifty leagues to the first fall on this river, which +comes from the north-north-west. The harbor is small, and can accommodate +only about twenty vessels. It has water enough, and is under shelter of the +river Saguenay and a little rocky island; which is almost cut by the river; +elsewhere there are very high mountains with little soil and only rocks and +sand, thickly covered with such wood as fir and birch. There is a small +pond near the harbor, shut in by mountains covered with wood. There are two +points at the mouth: one on the south-west side, extending out nearly a +league into the sea, called Point St. Matthew, or otherwise Point aux +Allouettes; and another on the north-west side, extending out one-eighth of +a league, and called Point of all Devils.[292] from the dangerous nature of +the place. The winds from the south-south-east strike the harbor, which are +not to be feared; but those, however, from the Saguenay are. The two points +above mentioned are dry at low tide: our vessel was unable to enter the +harbor, as the wind and tide were unfavorable. I at once had the boat +lowered, in order to go to the port and ascertain whether Pont Grave had +arrived. While on the way, I met a shallop with the pilot of Pont Grave and +a Basque, who came to inform me of what had happened to them because they +attempted to hinder the Basque vessels from trading, according to the +commission obtained by Sieur de Monts from his Majesty, that no vessels +should trade without permission of Sieur de Monts, as was expressed in it; +and that, notwithstanding the notifications which Pont Grave made in behalf +of his Majesty, they did not desist from forcibly carrying on their +traffic; and that they had used their arms and maintained themselves so +well in their vessel that, discharging all their cannon upon that of Pont +Grave, and letting off many musket-shots, he was severely wounded, together +with three of his men, one of whom died, Pont Grave meanwhile making no +resistance; for at the first shower of musketry he was struck down. The +Basques came on board of the vessel and took away all the cannon and arms, +declaring that they would trade, notwithstanding the prohibition of the +King, and that when they were ready to set out for France they would +restore to him his cannon and ammunition, and that they were keeping them +in order to be in a state of security. Upon hearing all these particulars, +I was greatly annoyed at such a beginning, which we might have easily +avoided. + +Now, after hearing from the pilot all these things, I asked him why the +Basque had come on board of our vessel. He told me that he came in behalf +of their master, named Darache, and his companions, to obtain assurance +from me that I would do them no harm, when our vessel entered the harbor. + +I replied that I could not give any until I had seen Pont Grave. The Basque +said that, if I had need of any thing in their power, they would assist me +accordingly. What led them to use this language was simply their +recognition of having done wrong, as they confessed, and the fear that they +would not be permitted to engage in the whale-fishery. After talking at +length, I went ashore to see Pont Grave, in order to deliberate as to what +was to be done. I found him very ill. He related to me in detail all that +had happened. We concluded that we could only enter the harbor by force, +and that the settlement must not be given up for this year, so that we +considered it best, in order not to make a bad cause out of a just one, and +thus work our ruin, to give them assurances on my part so long as I should +remain there, and that Pont Grave should undertake nothing against them, +but that justice should be done in France, and their differences should be +settled there. + +Darache, master of the vessel, begged me to go on board, where he gave me a +cordial reception. After a long conference, I secured an agreement between +Pont Grave and him, and required him to promise that he would undertake +nothing against Pont Grave, or what would be prejudicial to the King and +Sieur de Monts; that, if he did the contrary, I should regard my promise as +null and void. This was agreed to, and signed by each. + +In this place were a number of savages who had come for traffic in furs, +several of whom came to our vessel with their canoes, which are from eight +to nine paces long, and about a pace or pace and a half broad in the +middle, growing narrower towards the two ends. They are very apt to turn +over, in case one does not understand managing them, and are made of birch +bark, strengthened on the inside by little ribs of white cedar, very neatly +arranged; they are so light that a man can easily carry one. Each can carry +a weight equal to that of a pipe. When they want to go overland to a river +where they have business, they carry them with them. From Choueacoet along +the coast as far as the harbor of Tadoussac, they are all alike. + + +ENDNOTES: + +283. Champlain arrived on the shores of America on the 8th of May, 1604, + and left on the 3rd of September, 1607. He had consequently been on + our coast three years, three months, and twenty-five days. + +284. _The late King Henry the Great_. Henry IV. died in 1610, and this + introductory passage was obviously written after that event, probably + near the time of the publication of his voyages in 1613. + +285. In the preliminary voyage of 1603, Champlain ascended the St. Lawrence + as far as the falls of St. Louis, above Montreal. + +286. The contribution by Henry IV. did not probably extend beyond the + monopoly of the fur-trade granted by him in this commission. + +287. This, we presume, was the act abrogating the charter of De Monts + granted in 1603. + +288. This cape still retains its ancient name, and is situated between + St. Mary's Bay and Placentia Bay. + +289. Cape St. Lawrence is the northernmost extremity of the Island of Cape + Breton, and the Island of St. Paul is twenty miles north-east of it. + +290. The Isle Percee, or pierced island, is a short distance north of the + Island of Bonaventure, at the entrance of Mal Bay, near the village of + Percee, where there is a government light. Gaspe Bay is some miles + farther north. "Below the bay," says Charlevoix, "we perceive a kind + of island, which is only a steep rock about thirty fathoms long, ten + high, and four in breadth: it looks like part of an old wall, and they + say it joined formerly to _Mount Ioli_, which is over against it on + the continent. This rock has in the midst of it an opening like an + arch, under which a boat of Biscay may pass with its sail up, and this + has given it the name of the _pierced island_."--_Letters to the + Duchess of Lesdiguieres_, by Francis Xavier de Charlevoix, London, + 1763, p. 12. + +291. The position in the roadstead was south-east of the harbor, so that + the harbor was seen on the north-west. Charlevoix calls it Moulin + Baude. The reader will find the position indicated by the letter M on + Champlain's map of the Port of Tadoussac. Baude Moulin (Baude Mill), + directly north of it, was probably a mill _privilege_. Charlevoix, in + 1720, anchored there, and asked them to show him the mill; and they + showed him some rocks, from which issued a stream of clear water. He + adds, they might build a water-mill here, but probably it will never + be done. + +292. _Pointe de tous les Diables_. Now known as Pointe aux Vaches, _cows_. + The point on the other side of the river is still called Pointe aux + Alouettes, or Lark Point. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +OF THE RIVER SAGUENAY, AND THE SAVAGES WHO VISITED US THERE.--OF THE ISLAND +OF ORLEANS, AND ALL THAT WE OBSERVED THERE WORTHY OF NOTE. + +After this agreement, I had some carpenters set to work to fit up a little +barque of twelve or fourteen tons, for carrying all that was needed for our +settlement, which, however, could not be got ready before the last of June. + +Meanwhile, I managed to visit some parts of the river Saguenay, a fine +river, which has the incredible depth of some one hundred and fifty to two +hundred fathoms. [293] About fifty leagues from the mouth of the harbor, +there is, as is said, a great waterfall, descending from a very high +elevation with great impetuosity. There are some islands in this river, +very barren, being only rocks covered with small firs and heathers. It is +half a league broad in places, and a quarter of a league at its mouth, +where the current is so strong that at three-quarters flood-tide in the +river it is still running out. All the land that I have seen consists only +of mountains and rocky promontories, for the most part covered with fir and +birch, a very unattractive country on both sides of the river. In a word, +it is mere wastes, uninhabited by either animals or birds; for, going out +hunting in places which seemed to me the most pleasant, I found only some +very small birds, such as swallows and river birds, which go there in +summer. At other times, there are none whatever, in consequence of the +excessive cold. This river flows from the north-west. + +The savages told me that, after passing the first fall, they meet with +eight others, when they go a day's journey without finding any. Then they +pass ten others, and enter a lake, [294] which they are three days in +crossing, and they are easily able to make ten leagues a day up stream. At +the end of the lake there dwells a migratory people. Of the three rivers +which flow into this lake, one comes from the north, very near the sea, +where they consider it much colder than in their own country; and the other +two from other directions in the interior, [295] where are migratory +savages, living only from hunting, and where our savages carry the +merchandise we give them for their furs, such as beaver, marten, lynx, and +otter, which are found there in large numbers, and which they then carry to +our vessels. These people of the north report to our savages that they see +the salt sea; and, if that is true, as I think it certainly is, it can be +nothing but a gulf entering the interior on the north. [296] The savages +say that the distance from the north sea to the port of Tadoussac is +perhaps forty-five or fifty days' journey, in consequence of the +difficulties presented by the roads, rivers, and country, which is very +mountainous, and where there is snow for the most part of the year. This is +what I have definitely ascertained in regard to this river. I have often +wished to explore it, but could not do so without the savages, who were +unwilling that I or any of our party should accompany them. Nevertheless, +they have promised that I shall do so. This exploration would be desirable, +in order to remove the doubts of many persons in regard to the existence of +this sea on the north, where it is maintained that the English have gone in +these latter years to find a way to China. [297] + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +PORT DE TADOUCAC. + +_The figures indicate the fathoms of water_. + +_A_. A round mountain on the bank of the river Saguenay. +_B_. The harbor of Tadoussac. +_C_. A small fresh-water brook. +_D_. The encampment of the savages when they come to traffic. +_E_. A peninsula partly enclosing the port of the river Saguenay. +_F_. Point of All Devils. +_G_. The river Saguenay. +_H_. Point aux Alouettes. +_I_. Very rough mountains covered with firs and beeches. +_L_. The mill Bode. +_M_. The roadstead where vessels anchor while waiting for wind and tide. +_N_. A little pond near the harbor. +_O_. A small brook coming from the pond and flowing into the Saguenay. +_P_. Place without trees near the point where there is a quantity of grass. + + * * * * * + +I set out from Tadoussac the last day of the month to go to Quebec. [298] +We passed near an island called Hare Island, [299] distant six leagues from +the above-named port: it is two leagues from the northern, and nearly four +leagues from the southern shore. From Hare Island we proceeded to a little +river, dry at low tide, up which some seven hundred or eight hundred paces +there are two falls. We named it Salmon River, [300] since we caught some +of these fish in it. Coasting along the north shore, we came to a point +extending into the river, which we called Cap Dauphin, [301] distant three +leagues from Salmon River. Thence we proceeded to another, which we named +Eagle Cape, [302] distant eight leagues from Cap Dauphin. Between the two +there is a large bay, [303] at the extremity of which is a little river dry +at low tide. From Eagle Cape, we proceeded to Isle aux Coudres, [304] a +good league distant, which is about a league and a half long. It is nearly +level, and grows narrower towards the two ends. On the western end there +are meadows, and rocky points extending some distance out into the river. +On the south-west side it is very reefy, yet very pleasant in consequence +of the woods surrounding it. It is distant about half a league from the +northern shore, where is a little river extending some distance into the +interior. We named it Riviere du Gouffre, [305] since abreast of it the +tide runs with extraordinary rapidity; and, although it has a calm +appearance, it is always much agitated, the depth there being great: but +the river itself is shallow, and there are many rocks at and about its +mouth. Coasting along from Isle aux Coudres, we reached a cape which we +named Cap de Tourmente, [306] five leagues distant; and we gave it this +name because, however little wind there may be, the water rises there as if +it were full tide. At this point, the water begins to be fresh. Thence we +proceeded to the Island of Orleans, [307] a distance of two leagues, on the +south side of which are numerous islands, low, covered with trees and very +pleasant, with large meadows, having plenty of game, some being, so far as +I could judge, two leagues in length, others a trifle more or less. About +these islands are many rocks, also very dangerous shallows, some two +leagues distant from the main land on the South. All this shore, both north +and South, from Tadoussac to the Island of Orleans, is mountainous, and the +soil very poor. The wood is pine, fir, and birch only, with very ugly +rocks, so that in most places one could not make his way. + +Now we passed along south of the Island of Orleans, which is a league and a +half distant from the main land and half a league on the north side, being +six leagues in length, and one in breadth, or in some places a league and a +half. On the north side, it is very pleasant, on account of the great +extent of woods and meadows there; but it is very dangerous sailing, in +consequence of the numerous points and rocks between the main land and +island, on which are numerous fine oaks and in some places nut-trees, and +on the borders of the woods vines and other trees such as we have in +France. This place is the commencement of the fine and fertile country of +the great river, and is distant one hundred and twenty leagues from its +mouth. Off the end of the island is a torrent of water on the north shore, +proceeding from a lake ten leagues in the interior: [308] it comes down +from a height of nearly twenty-five fathoms, above which the land is level +and pleasant, although farther inland are seen high mountains appearing to +be from fifteen to twenty leagues distant. + + +ENDNOTES: + +293. The deepest sounding as laid down on Laurie's Chart is one hundred and + forty-six fathoms. The same authority says the banks of the river + throughout its course are very rocky, and vary in height from one + hundred and seventy to three hundred and forty yards above the stream. + Its current is broad, deep, and uncommonly vehement: in some places, + where precipices intervene, are falls from fifty to sixty feet in + height, down which the whole volume of water rushes with tremendous + fury and noise. The general breadth of the river is about two and a + half miles, but at its mouth its width is contracted to three-quarters + of a mile. The tide runs upward about sixty-five miles from its mouth. + +294. If the Indians were three days in crossing Lake St. John here referred + to, whose length is variously stated to be from twenty-five to forty + miles, it could hardly have been the shortest time in which it were + possible to pass it. It may have been the usual time, some of which + they gave to fishing or hunting. "In 1647, Father Jean Duquen, + missionary at Tadoussac, ascending the Saguenay, discovered the Lake + St. John, and noted its Indian name, Picouagami, or Flat Lake. He was + the first European who beheld that magnificent expanse of inland + water."--_Vide Transactions, Lit. and His. Soc. of Quebec_, 1867-68, + p. 5. + +295. The first of these three rivers, which the traveller will meet as he + passes up the northern shore of the lake, is the Peribonca flowing + from the north-east. The second is the Mistassina, represented by the + Indians as coming from the salt sea. The third is the Chomouchonan, + flowing from the north-west. + +296. There was doubtless an Indian trail from the head-waters of the + Mistassina to Mistassin Lake, and from thence to Rupert River, which + flows into the lower part of Hudson's Bay. + +297. The salt sea referred to by the Indians was undoubtedly Hudson's Bay. + The discoverer of this bay, Henry Hudson, in the years 1607, 1608, and + 1609, was in the northern ocean searching for a passage to Cathay. In + 1610, he discovered the strait and bay which now bear his name. He + passed the winter in the southern part of the bay; and the next year, + 1611, his sailors in a mutiny forced him and his officers into a + shallop and abandoned them to perish. Nothing was heard of them + afterward. The fame of Hudson's discovery had reached Champlain + before the publication of this volume in 1613. This will be apparent + by comparing Champlain's small map with the TABULA NAUTICA of Hudson, + published in 1612. It will be seen that the whole of the Carte + Geographique de la Nouvelle France of Champlain, on the west of + Lumley's Inlet, including Hudson's Strait and Bay, is a copy from the + Tabula Nautica. Even the names are in English, a few characteristic + ones being omitted, such as Prince Henry, the King's Forlant, and Cape + Charles.--_Vide Henry Hudson the Navigator_, by G. M. Asher, LL.D., + Hakluyt Society, 1860, p. xliv. + +298. This was June 30, 1608. + +299. _Isle aux Lievres_, or hares. This name was given by Jacques Cartier, + and it is still called Hare Island. It is about ten geographical miles + long, and generally about half or three-quarters of a mile wide. + +300. _Riviere aux Saulmons_. "From all appearances," says Laverdiere, "this + Salmon River is that which empties into the 'Port a l'Equilles,' eel + harbor, also called 'Port aux Quilles,' Skittles Port. Its mouth is + two leagues from Cape Salmon, with which it must not be confounded." + It is now known as Black River. + +301. _Cap Dauphin_, now called Cape Salmon, which is about three leagues + from Black River. + +302. _Cap a l'Aigle_, now known as Cap aux Oies, or Goose Cape. The Eagle + Cape of to-day is little more than two leagues from Cape Salmon, while + Goose Cape is about eight leagues, as stated in the text. + +303. The bay stretching between Cape Salmon and Goose Cape is called Mal + Bay, within which are Cape Eagle, Murray Bay, Point au Ries, White + Cape, Red Cape, Black Cape, Point Pere, Point Corneille, and Little + Mal Bay. In the rear of Goose Cape are Les Eboulemens Mountains, 2,547 + feet in height. On the opposite side of the river is Point Ouelle, and + the river of the same name. + +304. _Isle aux Coudres_, Hazel Island, so named by Jacques Cartier, still + retains its ancient appellation. Its distance from Goose Cape is about + two leagues. The description of it in the text is very accurate. + +305. _Riviere du Gouffre_. This river still retains this name, signifying + whirlpool, and is the same that empties into St. Paul's Bay, opposite + Isle-aux Coudres. + +306. _Cap de Tourmente_, cape of the tempest, is eight leagues from Isle + aux Coudres, but about two from the Isle of Orleans, as stated in the + text, which sufficiently identifies it. + +307. _Isle d'Orleans_. Cartier discovered this island in 1635, and named it + the Island of Bacchus, because he saw vines growing there, which he + had not before seen in that region. He says, "Et pareillement y + trouuasmes force vignes, ce que n'auyons veu par cy deuant a toute la + terre, & par ce la nommasmes l'ysle de Bacchus."--_Brief Recit de la + Navigation Faite en MDXXXV._, par Jacques Cartier, D'Avezac ed., + Paris, 1863, pp. 14, 15. The grape found here was probably the Frost + Grape, _Vitis cordifolia_. The "Island of Orleans" soon became the + fixed name of this island, which it still retains. Its Indian name is + said to have been _Minigo_.--_Vide_ Laverdiere's interesting note, + _Oeuvres de Champlain_, Tome II, p. 24. Champlain's estimate of the + size of the island is nearly accurate. It is, according to the + Admiralty charts, seventeen marine miles in length, and four in its + greatest width. + +308. This was the river Montmorency, which rises in Snow Lake, some fifty + miles in the interior.--_Vide_ Champlain's reference on his map of + Quebec and its environs. He gave this name to the river, which it + still retains, in honor of the Admiral Montmorency, to whom he + dedicated his notes on the voyage of 1603.--_Vide Laverdiere_, in + loco; also _Champlain_, ed. 1632; _Chiarlevoix's Letters_, London, + 1763, p. 19. The following is Jean Alfonse's description of the fall + of Montmorency: "When thou art come to the end of the Isle, thou shall + see a great River, which falleth fifteene or twenty fathoms downe from + a rocke, and maketh a terrible noyse."--_Hakluyt, Vol. III. p. 293. + The perpendicular descent of the Montmorency at the falls is 240 feet. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +ARRIVAL AT QUEBEC, WHERE WE CONSTRUCTED OUR PLACE OF ABODE; ITS SITUATION. +--CONSPIRACY AGAINST THE SERVICE OF THE KING AND MY LIFE. BY SOME OF OUR +MEN--PUNISHMENT OF THEM, AND ALL THAT TRANSPIRED OF THE AFFAIR. + + +From the Island of Orleans to Quebec the distance is a league. I arrived +there on the 3d of July, when I searched for a place suitable for our +settlement, but I could find none more convenient or better situated than +the point of Quebec, so called by the savages, [309] which was covered with +nut-trees. I at once employed a portion of our workmen in cutting them +down, that we might construct our habitation there: one I set to sawing +boards, another to making a cellar and digging ditches, another I sent to +Tadoussac with the barque to get supplies. The first thing we made was the +storehouse for keeping under cover our supplies, which was promptly +accomplished through the zeal of all, and my attention to the work. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +QUEBEC. + +_The figures indicate the fathoms of water_. + +_A_. The site where our habitation is built. [Note 1] +_B_. Cleared land where we sow wheat and other grain. [Note 2] +_C_. The gardens.[Note 3] +_D_. small brook coming from marshes. [Note 4] +_E_. River where Jacques Cartier passed the winter, which in his time he + called St. Croix, and which name has been transferred to a place + fifteen leagues above Quebec. [Note 5] +_F_. River of the marshes. [Note 6] +_G_. Place where was collected the grass for the animals brought here. + [Note 7] +_H_. The grand fall of Montmorency, which descends from a height of more + than twenty-five fathoms into the river. [Note 8] +_I_. The end of the Island of Orleans. +_L_. A very narrow point on the shore east of Quebec. [Note 9] +_M_. Roaring river which extends to the Etechemins. +_N_. The great river of St. Lawrence. +_O_. Lake in the roaring river. +_P_. Mountains in the interior; bay which I named New Biscay, +_q_. Lake of the great fall of Montmorency. [Note 10] +_R_. Bear Brook. [Note 11] +_S_. Brook du Gendre. [Note 12] +_T_. Meadows overflowed at every tide. +_V_. Mont du Gas, very high, situated on the bank of the river. [Note 13] +_X_. Swift brook, adapted to all kinds of mills. +_Y_. Gravelly shore where a quantity of diamonds are found somewhat better + than those of Alanson. +_Z_. The Point of Diamonds. +_9_. Places where the savages often build their cabins. [Note 14] + +NOTES. The following notes on Champlain's explanation of his map of Quebec +are by the Abbe Laverdiere, whose accurate knowledge of that city and its +environs renders them especially valuable. They are given entire, with only +slight modifications. + +1. That is properly the point of Quebec, including what is at present + enclosed by La Place, the street Notre Dame, and the river. + +2. This first clearing must have been what was called later the Esplanade + du Fort, or Grande Place, or perhaps both. The Grande Place became, in + 1658, the fort of the Hurons: it was the space included between the Cote + of the lower town and the Rue du Fort. + +3. A little above the gardens, on the slope of the Cote du Saut au Matelot, + a cross is seen, which seems to indicate that at that time the cemetery + was where it is said to be when it is mentioned some years later for the + first time. + +4. According to the old plans of Quebec, these marshes were represented to + be west of Mont Carmel, and at the foot of the glacis of the Citadel. + The brook pulled eastward of the grounds of the Ursulines and Jesuites, + followed for some distance the Rue de la Fabrique as far as the + enclosure of the Hotel Dieu, to the east of which it ran down the hill + towards the foot of the Cote de la Canoterie. + +5. The river St. Charles. The letter E does not indicate precisely the + place where Jacques Quartier wintered, but only the mouth of the river. + +6. Judging from the outlines of the shore, this brook, which came from the + south-west, flowed into the harbor of the Palais, towards the western + extremity of the Parc. + +7. This is probably what was called later the barn of the Messieurs de la + Compagnie, or simply La Grange, and appears to have been somewhere on + the avenue of Mont Carmel. + +8. The fall of Montmorency is forty fathoms or two hundred and forty French + feet, or even more. + +9. Hence it is seen that in 1613 this point had as yet no name. In 1629, + Champlain calls it Cap de Levis: it can accordingly be concluded that + this point derives its name from that of the Duc de Ventadour, Henri de + Levis, and that it must have been so named between the years 1625 and + 1627, the time when he was regent. + +10. The Lake of the Snows is the source of the western branch of the + Riviere du Saut. + +11. La Riviere de Beauport, which is called likewise La Distillerie. + +12. Called later Ruisseau de la Cabaneaux Taupiers. Riviere Chalisour, and + finally Riviere des Fous, from the new insane asylum, by the site of + which it now passes. + +13. Height where is now situated the bastion of the Roi a la Citadelle. + This name was given it, doubtless, in memory of M. de Monts, Pierre du + Guast. + +14. This figure appears not only at the Point du Cap Diamant, but also + along the shore of Beauport, and at the end of the Island of Orleans. + + * * * * * + +Some days after my arrival at Quebec, a locksmith conspired against the +service of the king. His plan was to put me to death, and, getting +possession of our fort, to put it into the hands of the Basques or +Spaniards, then at Tadoussac, beyond which vessels cannot go, from not +having a knowledge of the route, nor of the banks and rocks on the way. + +In order to execute his wretched plan, by which he hoped to make his +fortune, he suborned four of the worst characters, as he supposed, telling +them a thousand falsehoods, and presenting to them prospects of acquiring +riches. + +These four men, having been won over, all promised to act in such a manner +as to gain the rest over to their side; so that, for the time being, I had +no one with me in whom I could put confidence, which gave them still more +hope of making their plan succeed: for four or five of my companions, in +whom they knew that I put confidence, were on board of the barques, for the +purpose of protecting the provisions and supplies necessary for our +settlement. + +In a word, they were so skilful in carrying out their intrigues with those +who remained, that they were on the point of gaining all over to their +cause, even my lackey, promising them many things which they could not have +fulfilled. + +Being now all agreed, they made daily different plans as to how they should +put me to death, so as not to be accused of it, which they found to be a +difficult thing. But the devil, blindfolding them all and taking away their +reason and every possible difficulty, they determined to take me while +unarmed, and strangle me; or to give a false alarm at night, and shoot me +as I went out, in which manner they judged that they would accomplish their +work sooner than otherwise. They made a mutual promise not to betray each +other, on penalty that the first one who opened his mouth should be +poniarded. They were to execute their plan in four days, before the +arrival of our barques, otherwise they would have been unable to carry out +their scheme. + +On this very day, one of our barques arrived, with our pilot, Captain +Testu, a very discreet man. After the barque was unloaded, and ready to +return to Tadoussac, there came to him a locksmith, named Natel, an +associate of Jean du Val, the head of the conspiracy, who told him that he +had promised the rest to do just as they did; but that he did not in fact +desire the execution of the plot, yet did not dare to make a disclosure in +regard to it, from fear of being poniarded. + +Antoine Natel made the pilot promise that he would make no disclosure in +regard to what he should say, since, if his companions should discover it, +they would put him to death. The pilot gave him his assurance in all +particulars, and asked him to state the character of the plot which they +wished to carry out. This Natel did at length, when the pilot said to him: +"My friend, you have done well to disclose such a malicious design, and you +show that you are an upright man, and under the guidance of the Holy +Spirit. But these things cannot be passed by without bringing them to the +knowledge of Sieur de Champlain, that he may make provision against them; +and I promise you that I will prevail upon him to pardon you and the rest. +And I will at once," said the pilot, "go to him without exciting any +suspicion; and do you go about your business, listening to all they may +say, and not troubling yourself about the rest." + +The pilot came at once to me, in a garden which I was having prepared, and +said that he wished to speak to me in a private place, where we could be +alone. I readily assented, and we went into the wood, where he related to +me the whole affair. I asked who had told it to him. He begged me to pardon +him who had made the disclosure, which I consented to do, although he ought +to have addressed himself to me. He was afraid, he replied, that you would +become angry, and harm him. I told him that I was able to govern myself +better than that, in such a matter; and desired him to have the man come to +me, that I might hear his statement. He went, and brought him all trembling +with fear lest I should do him some harm. I reassured him, telling him not +to be afraid; that he was in a place of safety, and that I should pardon +him for all that he had done, together with the others, provided he would +tell me in full the truth in regard to the whole matter, and the motive +which had impelled them to it. "Nothing," he said, "had impelled them, +except that they had imagined that, by giving up the place into the hands +of the Basques or Spaniards, they might all become rich, and that they did +not want to go back to France." He also related to me the remaining +particulars in regard to their conspiracy. + +After having heard and questioned him, I directed him to go about his +work. Meanwhile, I ordered the pilot to bring up his shallop, which he +did. Then I gave two bottles of wine to a young man, directing him to say +to these four worthies, the leaders of the conspiracy, that it was a +present of wine, which his friends at Tadoussac had given him, and that he +wished to share it with them. This they did not decline, and at evening +were on board the barque where he was to give them the entertainment. I +lost no time in going there shortly after; and caused them to be seized, +and held until the next day. + +Then were my worthies astonished indeed. I at once had all get up, for it +was about ten o'clock in the evening, and pardoned them all, on condition +that they would disclose to me the truth in regard to all that had +occurred; which they did, when I had them retire. + +The next day I took the depositions of all, one after the other, in the +presence of the pilot and sailors of the vessel, which I had put down in +writing; and they were well pleased, as they said, since they had lived +only in fear of each other, especially of the four knaves who had ensnared +them. But now they lived in peace, satisfied, as they declared, with the +treatment which they had received. + +The same day I had six pairs of handcuffs made for the authors of the +conspiracy: one for our surgeon, named Bonnerme, one for another, named La +Taille, whom the four conspirators had accused, which, however, proved +false, and consequently they were given their liberty. + +This being done, I took my worthies to Tadoussac, begging Pont Grave to do +me the favor of guarding them, since I had as yet no secure place for +keeping them, and as we were occupied in constructing our places of abode. +Another object was to consult with him, and others on the ship, as to what +should be done in the premises. We suggested that, after he had finished +his work at Tadoussac, he should come to Quebec with the prisoners, where +we should have them confronted with their witnesses, and, after giving them +a hearing, order justice to be done according to the offence which they had +committed. + +I went back the next day to Quebec, to hasten the completion of our +storehouse, so as to secure our provisions, which had been misused by all +those scoundrels, who spared nothing, without reflecting how they could +find more when these failed; for I could not obviate the difficulty until +the storehouse should be completed and shut up. + +Pont Grave arrived some time after me, with the prisoners, which caused +uneasiness to the workmen who remained, since they feared that I should +pardon them, and that they would avenge themselves upon them for revealing +their wicked design. + +We had them brought face to face, and they affirmed before them all which +they had stated in their depositions, the prisoners not denying it, but +admitting that they had acted in a wicked manner, and should be punished, +unless mercy might be exercised towards them; accursing, above all, Jean du +Val, who had been trying to lead them into such a conspiracy from the time +of their departure from France. Du Val knew not what to say, except that he +deserved death, that all stated in the depositions was true, and that he +begged for mercy upon himself and the others, who had given in their +adherence to his pernicious purposes. + +After Pont Grave and I, the captain of the vessel, surgeon, mate, second +mate, and other sailors, had heard their depositions and face to face +statements, we adjudged that it would be enough to put to death Du Val, as +the instigator of the conspiracy; and that he might serve as an example to +those who remained, leading them to deport themselves correctly in future, +in the discharge of their duty; and that the Spaniards and Basques, of whom +there were large numbers in the country, might not glory in the event. We +adjudged that the three others be condemned to be hung, but that they +should be taken to France and put into the hands of Sieur de Monts, that +such ample justice might be done them as he should recommend; that they +should be sent with all the evidence and their sentence, as well as that of +Jean du Val, who was strangled and hung at Quebec, and his head was put on +the end of a pike, to be set up in the most conspicuous place on our fort. + + +ENDNOTES: + +309. Champlain here plainly means to say that the Indians call the narrow + place in the river _Quebec_. For this meaning of the word, viz., + narrowing of waters, in the Algonquin language, the authority is + abundant. Laverdiere quotes, as agreeing with him in this view, + Bellenger, Ferland, and Lescarbot. "The narrowing of the river," says + Charlevoix, "gave it the name of _Quebeio_ or _Quebec_, which in the + _Algonquin_ language signifies _contraction_. The Abenaquis, whose + language is a dialect of the Algonquin, call it Quelibec, which + signifies something shut up."--_Charlevoix's Letters_, pp. 18, 19. + Alfred Hawkins, in his "Historical Recollections of Quebec," regards + the word of Norman origin, which he finds on a seal of the Duke of + Suffolk, as early as 1420. The theory is ingenious: but it requires + some other characteristic historical facts to challenge our belief. + When Cartier visited Quebec, it was called by the natives Stadacone. + --_Vide Cartier's Brief Recit_, 1545, D'Avezac ed., Paris, 1863, + p. 14. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +RETURN OF PONT GRAVE TO FRANCE.--DESCRIPTION OF OUR QUARTERS AND THE PLACE +WHERE JACQUES CARTIER STAYED IN 1535. + + +After all these occurrences, Pont Grave set out from Quebec, on the 18th of +September, to return to France with the three prisoners. After he had gone, +all who remained conducted themselves correctly in the discharge of their +duty. + +I had the work on our quarters continued, which was composed of three +buildings of two stories. Each one was three fathoms long, and two and a +half wide. The storehouse was six fathoms long and three wide, with a fine +cellar six feet deep. I had a gallery made all around our buildings, on the +outside, at the second story, which proved very convenient. There were +also ditches, fifteen feet wide and six deep. On the outer side of the +ditches, I constructed several spurs, which enclosed a part of the +dwelling, at the points where we placed our cannon. Before the habitation +there is a place four fathoms wide and six or seven long, looking out upon +the river-bank. Surrounding the habitation are very good gardens, and a +place on the north side some hundred or hundred and twenty paces long and +fifty or sixty wide. Moreover, near Quebec, there is a little river, coming +from a lake in the interior, [310] distant six or seven leagues from our +settlement. I am of opinion that this river, which is north a quarter +north-west from our settlement, is the place where Jacques Cartier +wintered, [311] since there are still, a league up the river, remains of +what seems to have been a chimney, the foundation of which has been found, +and indications of there having been ditches surrounding their dwelling, +which was small. We found, also, large pieces of hewn, worm-eaten timber, +and some three or four cannon-balls. All these things show clearly that +there was a settlement there founded by Christians; and what leads me to +say and believe that it was that of Jacques Cartier is the fact that there +is no evidence whatever that any one wintered and built a house in these +places except Jacques Cartier, at the time of his discoveries. This place, +as I think, must have been called St. Croix, as he named it; which name +has since been transferred to another place fifteen leagues west of our +settlement. But there is no evidence of his having wintered in the place +now called St. Croix, nor in any other there, since in this direction there +is no river or other place large enough for vessels except the main river +or that of which I spoke above; here there is half a fathom of water at low +tide, many rocks, and a bank at the mouth; for vessels, if kept in the main +river, where there are strong currents and tides, and ice in the winter, +drifting along, would run the risk of being lost; especially as there is a +sandy point extending out into the river, and filled with rocks, between +which we have found, within the last three years, a passage not before +discovered; but one must go through cautiously, in consequence of the +dangerous points there. This place is exposed to the north-west winds; a +half fathoms. There are no signs of buildings here, nor any indications +that a man of judgment would settle in this place, there being many other +better ones, in case one were obliged to make a permanent stay. I have been +desirous of speaking at length on this point, since many believe that the +abode of Jacques Cartier was here, which I do not believe, for the reasons +here given; for Cartier would have left to posterity a narrative of the +matter, as he did in the case of all he saw and discovered; and I maintain +that my opinion is the true one, as can be shown by the history which he +has left, in writing. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +ABITATION DE QUEBECQ. + +_A_. The storehouse. +_B_. Dove-cote. +_C_. A building where our arms are kept, and for lodging our workmen. +_D_. Another building for our workmen. +_E_. Dial. +_F_. Another building, comprising the blacksmith's shop and the lodgings of + the mechanics. +_G_. Galleries extending entirely round the dwellings. +_H_. The dwelling of Sieur de Champlain. +_I_. Gate to the habitation where there is a drawbridge. +_L_. Promenade about the habitation ten feet wide, extending to the border + of the moat. +_M_. Moat extending all round our habitation. +_N_. Platforms, of a tenaille form, for our cannon. +_O_. Garden of Sieur de Champlain. +_P_. The kitchen. +_Q_. Open space before the habitation on the bank of the river. +_R_. The great river St. Lawrence. + + * * * * * + +As still farther proof that this place now called St. Croix is not the +place where Jacques Cartier wintered, as most persons think, this is what +he says about it in his discoveries, taken from his history; namely, that +he arrived at the Isle aux Coudres on the 5th of December, [312] 1535, +which he called by this name, as hazel-nuts were found there. There is a +strong tidal current in this place; and he says that it is three leagues +long, but it is quite enough to reckon a league and a half. On the 7th of +the month, Notre Dame Day, [313] he set out from this island to go up the +river, in which he saw fourteen islands, distant seven or eight leagues +from Isle aux Coudres on the south. He errs somewhat in this estimation, +for it is not more than three leagues. [314] He also says that the place +where the islands are is the commencement of the land or province of +Canada, and that he reached an island ten leagues long and five wide, where +extensive fisheries are carried on, fish being here, in fact, very +abundant, especially the sturgeon. But its length is not more than six +leagues, and its breadth two; a fact well recognized now. He says also that +he anchored between this island and the main land on the north, the +smallest passage, and a dangerous one, where he landed two savages whom he +had taken to France, and that, after stopping in this place some time with +the people of the country, he sent for his barques and went farther up the +river, with the tide, seeking a harbor and place of security for his ships. +He says, farther, that they went on up the river, coasting along this +island, the length of which he estimates at ten leagues; and after it was +passed they found a very fine and pleasant bay, containing a little river +and bar harbor, which they found very favorable for sheltering their +vessels. This they named St. Croix, since he arrived there on this day; and +at the time of the voyage of Cartier the place was called Stadaca, [315] +but we now call it Quebec. He says, also, that after he had examined this +place he returned to get his vessels for passing the winter there. + +Now we may conclude, accordingly, that the distance is only five leagues +from the Isle aux Coudres to the Isle of Orleans, [316] at the western +extremity of which the river is very broad; and at which bay, as Cartier +calls it, there is no other river than that which he called St. Croix, a +good league distant from the Isle of Orleans, in which, at low tide, there +is only half a fathom of water. It is very dangerous for vessels at its +mouth, there being a large number of spurs; that is, rocks scattered here +and there. It is accordingly necessary to place buoys in order to enter, +there being, as I have stated, three fathoms of water at ordinary tides, +and four fathoms, or four and a half generally, at the great tides at full +flood. It is only fifteen hundred paces from our habitation, which is +higher up the river; and, as I have stated, there is no other river up to +the place now called St. Croix, where vessels can lie, there being only +little brooks. The shores are flat and dangerous, which Cartier does not +mention until the time that he sets out from St. Croix, now called Quebec, +where he left his vessels, and built his place of abode, as is seen from +what follows. + +On the 19th of September, he set out from St. Croix, where his vessels +were, setting sail with the tide up the river, which they found very +pleasant, as well on account of the woods, vines, and dwellings, which were +there in his time, as for other reasons. They cast anchor twenty-five +leagues from the entrance to the land of Canada; [317] that is, at the +western extremity of the Isle of Orleans, so called by Cartier. What is +now called St Croix was then called Achelacy, at a narrow pass where the +river is very swift and dangerous on account of the rocks and other things, +and which can only be passed at flood-tide. Its distance from Quebec and +the river where Cartier wintered is fifteen leagues. + +Now, throughout the entire extent of this river, from Quebec to the great +fall, there are no narrows except at the place now called St. Croix; the +name of which has been transferred from one place to another one, which is +very dangerous, as my description shows. And it is very apparent, from his +narrative, that this was not the site of his habitation, as is claimed; but +that the latter was near Quebec, and that no one had entered into a special +investigation of this matter before my doing so in my voyages. For the +first time I was told that he dwelt in this place, I was greatly +astonished, finding no trace of a river for vessels, as he states there +was. This led me to make a careful examination, in order to remove the +suspicion and doubt of many persons in regard to the matter. [318] + +While the carpenters, sawers of boards, and other workmen, were employed on +our quarters, I set all the others to work clearing up around our place of +abode, in preparation for gardens in which to plant grain and seeds, that +we might see how they would flourish, as the soil seemed to be very good. + +Meanwhile, a large number of savages were encamped in cabins near us, +engaged in fishing for eels, which begin to come about the 15th of +September, and go away on the 15th of October. During this time, all the +Savages subsist on this food, and dry enough of it for the winter to last +until the month of February, when there are about two and a half, or at +most three, feet of snow; and, when their eels and other things which they +dry have been prepared, they go to hunt the beaver until the beginning of +January. At their departure for this purpose, they intrusted to us all +their eels and other things, until their return, which was on the 15th of +December. But they did not have great success in the beaver-hunt, as the +amount of water was too great, the rivers having overrun their banks, as +they told us. I returned to them all their supplies, which lasted them only +until the 20th of January. When their supply of eels gave out, they hunted +the elk and such other wild beasts as they could find until spring, when I +was able to supply them with various things. I paid especial attention to +their customs. + +These people suffer so much from lack of food that they are sometimes +obliged to live on certain shell-fish, and eat their dogs and the skins +with which they clothe themselves against the cold. I am of opinion that, +if one were to show them how to live, and teach them the cultivation of the +soil and other things, they would learn very aptly. For many of them +possess good sense, and answer properly questions put to them. They have a +bad habit of taking vengeance, and are great liars, and you must not put +much reliance on them, except judiciously, and with force at hand. They +make promises readily, but keep their word poorly. The most of them observe +no law at all, so far as I have been able to see, and are, besides, full of +superstitions. I asked them with what ceremonies they were accustomed to +pray to their God, when they replied that they had none, but that each +prayed to him in his heart, as he wished. That is why there is no law among +them, and they do not know what it is to worship and pray to God, living as +they do like brute beasts. But I think that they would soon become good +Christians, if people would come and inhabit their country, which they are +for the most part desirous of. There are some savages among them, called by +them Pilotais, whom they believe have intercourse with the devil face to +face, who tells them what they must do in regard to war and other things; +and, if he should order them to execute any undertaking, they would obey at +once. So, also, they believe that all their dreams are true; and, in fact, +there are many who say that they have had visions and dreams about matters +which actually come to pass or will do so. But, to tell the truth, these +are diabolical visions, through which they are deceived and misled. This is +all I have been able to learn about their brutish faith. All these people +are well proportioned in body, without deformity, and are agile. The women, +also, are well-formed, plump, and of a swarthy color, in consequence of +certain pigments with which they rub themselves, and which give them a +permanent olive color. They are dressed in skins: a part only of the body +is covered. But in winter they are covered throughout, in good furs of elk, +otter, beaver, bear, seals, deer, and roe, of which they have large +quantities. In winter, when the snow is deep, they make a sort of snow-shoe +of large size, two or three times as large as that used in France, which +they attach to their feet, thus going over the snow without sinking in; +otherwise, they could not hunt or walk in many places. They have a sort of +marriage, which is as follows: When a girl is fourteen or fifteen years +old, and has several suitors, she may keep company with all she likes. At +the end of five or six years, she takes the one that pleases her for her +husband, and they live together to the end of their lives. But if, after +living some time together, they have no children, the man can disunite +himself and take another woman, alleging that his own is good for nothing. +Hence, the girls have greater freedom than the married women. + +After marriage, the women are chaste, and their husbands generally +jealous. They give presents to the fathers or relatives of the girls they +have wedded. These are the ceremonies and forms observed in their +marriages. In regard to their burials: When a man or a woman dies, they dig +a pit, in which they put all their property, as kettles, furs, axes, bows, +arrows, robes, and other things. Then they place the body in the pit and +cover it with earth, putting, on top many large pieces of wood, and another +piece upright, painted red on the upper part. They believe in the +immortality of the soul, and say that they shall be happy in other lands +with their relatives and friends who are dead. In the case of captains or +others of some distinction, they celebrate a banquet three times a year +after their death, singing and dancing about the grave. + +All the time they were with us, which was the most secure place for them, +they did not cease to fear their enemies to such an extent that they often +at night became alarmed while dreaming, and sent their wives and children +to our fort, the gates of which I had opened to them, allowing the men to +remain about the fort, but not permitting them to enter, for their persons +were thus as much in security as if they had been inside. I also had five +or six of our men go out to reassure them, and to go and ascertain whether +they could see any thing in the woods, in order to quiet them. They are +very timid and in great dread of their enemies, scarcely ever sleeping in +repose in whatever place they may be, although I constantly reassured them, +so far as I could, urging them to do as we did; namely, that they should +have a portion watch while the others slept, that each one should have his +arms in readiness like him who was keeping watch, and that they should not +regard dreams as the actual truth to be relied upon, since they are mostly +only false, to which I also added other words on the same subject. But +these remonstrances were of little avail with them, and they said that we +knew better than they how to keep guard against all things; and that they, +in course of time, if we continued to stay with them, would be able to +learn it. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +SEEDS AND VINES PLANTED AT QUEBEC.--COMMENCEMENT OF THE WINTER AND ICE.-- +EXTREME DESTITUTION OF CERTAIN INDIANS. + + +On the 1st of October, I had some wheat sown, and on the 15th some rye. On +the 3d, there was a white frost in some places, and the leaves of the trees +began to fall on the 15th. On the 24th, I had some native vines set out, +which flourished very well. But, after leaving the settlement to go to +France, they were all spoiled from lack of attention, at which I was much +troubled on my return. On the 18th of November, there was a great fall of +snow, which remained only two days on the ground, during which time there +was a violent gale of wind. There died during this month a sailor and our +locksmith [319] of dysentery, so also many Indians from eating eels badly +cooked, as I think. On the 5th of February, it snowed violently, and the +wind was high for two days. On the 20th, some Indians appeared on the other +side of the river, calling to us to go to their assistance, which was +beyond our power, on account of the large amount of ice drifting in the +river. Hunger pressed upon these poor wretches so severely that, not +knowing what to do, they resolved, men, women, and children, to cross the +river or die, hoping that I should assist them in their extreme want. +Having accordingly made this resolve, the men and women took the children +and embarked in their canoes, thinking that they could reach our shore by +an opening in the ice made by the wind; but they were scarcely in the +middle of the stream when their canoes were caught by the ice and broken +into a thousand pieces. But they were skilful enough to throw themselves +with the children, which the women carried on their backs, on a large piece +of ice. As they were on it, we heard them crying out so that it excited +intense pity, as before them there seemed nothing but death. But fortune +was so favorable to these poor wretches that a large piece of ice struck +against the side of that on which they were, so violently as to drive them +ashore. On seeing this favorable turn, they reached the shore with as much +delight as they ever experienced, notwithstanding the great hunger from +which they were suffering. They proceeded to our abode, so thin and haggard +that they seemed like mere skeletons, most of them not being able to hold +themselves up. I was astonished to see them, and observe the manner in +which they had crossed, in view of their being so feeble and weak. I +ordered some bread and beans to be given them. So great was their +impatience to eat them, that they could not wait to have them cooked. I +lent them also some bark, which other savages had given me, to cover their +cabins. As they were making their cabin, they discovered a piece of +carrion, which I had had thrown out nearly two months before to attract the +foxes, of which we caught black and red ones, like those in France, but +with heavier fur. This carrion consisted of a sow and a dog, which had +sustained all the rigors of the weather, hot and cold. When the weather was +mild, it stank so badly that one could not go near it. Yet they seized it +and carried it off to their cabin, where they forthwith devoured it half +cooked. No meat ever seemed to them to taste better. I sent two or three +men to warn them not to eat it, unless they wanted to die: as they +approached their cabin, they smelt such a stench from this carrion half +warmed up, each one of the Indians holding a piece in his hand, that they +thought they should disgorge, and accordingly scarcely stopped at all. +These poor wretches finished their repast. I did not fail, however, to +supply them according to my resources; but this was little, in view of the +large number of them. In the space of a month, they would have eaten up all +our provisions, if they had had them in their power, they are so +gluttonous: for, when they have edibles, they lay nothing aside, but keep +consuming them day and night without respite, afterwards dying of hunger. +They did also another thing as disgusting as that just mentioned. I had +caused a bitch to be placed on the top of a tree, which allured the martens +[320] and birds of prey, from which I derived pleasure, since generally +this carrion was attacked by them. These savages went to the tree, and, +being too weak to climb it, cut it down and forthwith took away the dog, +which was only skin and bones, the tainted head emitting a stench, but +which was at once devoured. + +This is the kind of enjoyment they experience for the most part in winter; +for in summer they are able to support themselves, and to obtain provisions +so as not to be assailed by such extreme hunger, the rivers abounding in +fish, while birds and wild animals fill the country about. The soil is very +good and well adapted for tillage, if they would but take pains to plant +Indian corn, as all their neighbors do, the Algonquins, Ochastaiguins, +[321] and Iroquois, who are not attacked by such extremes of hunger, which +they provide against by their carefulness and foresight, so that they live +happily in comparison with the Montagnais, Canadians, and Souriquois along +the seacoast. This is in the main their wretched manner of life. The show +and ice last three months there, from January to the 8th of April, when it +is nearly all melted: at the latest, it is only seldom that any is seen at +the end of the latter month at our settlement. It is remarkable that so +much snow and ice as there is on the river, and which is from two to three +fathoms thick, is all melted in less than twelve days. From Tadoussac to +Gaspe, Cape Breton, Newfoundland, and the Great Bay, the snow and ice +continue in most places until the end of May, at which time the entire +entrance of the great river is sealed with ice; although at Quebec there is +none at all, showing a strange difference for one hundred and twenty +leagues in longitude, for the entrance to the river is in latitude 49 deg. 50' +to 51 deg., and our settlement [322] in 46 deg. 40'. + + +ENDNOTES: + +310. The river St. Charles flows from a lake in the interior of the same + name. It was called by the Montagnais, according to Sagard as cited by + Laverdiere, _in loco_, "Cabirecoubat, because it turns and forms + several points." Cartier named it the Holy Cross, or St. Croix, + because he says he arrived there "that day;" that is, the day on which + the exaltation of the Cross is celebrated, the 14th of September, + 1535.--_Vide Cartier_, Hakluyt, Vol. III. p. 266. The Recollects gave + it the name of St. Charles, after the grand vicar of Pontoise, Charles + des Boues.--_Laverdiere, in loco_. Jacques Cartier wintered on the + north shore of the St. Charles, which he called the St. Croix, or the + Holy Cross, about a league from Quebec. "Hard by, there is, in that + river, one place very narrow, deep, and swift running, but it is not + passing the third part of a league, over against the which there is a + goodly high piece of land, with a towne therein: and the country about + it is very well tilled and wrought, and as good as possibly can be + seene. This is the place and abode of Donnacona, and of our two men we + took in our first voyage, it is called Stadacona ... under which towne + toward the North the river and port of the holy crosse is, where we + staied from the 15 of September until the 16 of May, 1536, and there + our ships remained dry as we said before."--_Vide Jacques Cartier, + Second Voyage_, Hakluyt, Vol. III. p. 277. + +311. The spot where Jacques Cartier wintered was at the junction of the + river Lairet and the St. Charles. + +312. Cartier discovered the Isle of Coudres, that is, the isle of filberts + or hazel-nuts, on the 6th of September, 1535.--_Vide Cartier_, 1545, + D'Avezac ed., Paris, 1863, p. 12. This island is five nautical miles + long, which agrees with the statement of Champlain, and its greatest + width, is two miles and a quarter. + +313. Notre Dame Day, _iour de nostre dame_, should read "Notre Dame Eve." + Cartier says, "Le septiesme iour dudict moys iour nostre-dame_," + etc.--_Idem_, p. 12. Hakluyt renders it, "The seventh of the moneth + being our Ladees even."--Vol. III. p. 265. + +314. As Champlain suggests, these islands are only three leagues higher up + the river; but, as they are on the opposite side, they could not be + compassed in much less than seven or eight leagues, as Cartier + estimates. + +315. This was an error in transcribing. Cartier has Stadacone.--_Vide Brief + Recit_, 1545, D'Avezac ed., p. 14. + +316. The distance, according to Laurie's Chart, is at least twenty-six + nautical miles. + +317. Canada at this time was regarded by the Indians as a limited + territory, situated at or about Quebec. This statement is confirmed by + the testimony of Cartier: "Ledict Donnacona pria nostre cappitaine de + aller le lendemain veoir Canada, Ce que luy promist le dist + cappitaine. Et le lendemam, 13. iour du diet moys, ledict cappitaine + auecques ses gentilz homines accompaigne de cinquante compaignons bien + en ordre, alleret veoir ledict Donnacona & son peuple, qui est distat + dou estoient lesdictes nauires d'une lieue."--_Vide Brief Recit_, + 1545, D'Avezac ed., p. 29. Of the above the following is Hakluyt's + translation: "Donnacona their Lord desired our Captaine the next day + to come and see Canada, which he promised to doe: for the next day + being the 13 of the moneth, he with all his Gentlemen and fiftie + Mariners very well appointed, went to visite Donnacona and his people, + about a league from our ships." + + Their ships were at this time at St. Croix, a short distance up the + St. Charles, which flows into the St. Lawrence at Quebec; and the + little Indian village, or camp, which Donnacona called Canada, was at + Quebec. Other passages from Cartier, as well as from Jean Alfonse, + harmonize with this which we have cited. Canada was therefore in + Cartier's time only the name of a very small territory covered by an + Indian village. When it became the centre of French interests, it + assumed a wider meaning. The St. Lawrence was often called the River + of Canada, then the territory on its shores, and finally Canada has + come to comprehend the vast British possessions in America known as + the "Dominion of Canada." + +318. The locality of Cartier's winter-quarters is established by Champlain + with the certainty of an historical demonstration, and yet there are + to be found those whose judgment is so warped by preconceived opinion + that they resist the overwhelming testimony which he brings to bear + upon the subject. Charlevoix makes the St. Croix of Cartier the + Riviere de Jacques Cartier.--_Vide Shea's Charlevoix_, Vol. I. p. 116. + +319. Unless they had more than one locksmith, this must have been Antoine + Natel.--_Vide antea_, p. 178. + +320. _Martres_. The common weasel, _Musltla vulgaris_. + +321. _Ochastaiguins_. This, says Laverdiere, is what Champlain first called + the Hurons, from the name of Ochateguin, one of their chiefs. Huron + was a nickname: the proper name of this tribe was Wendot or + Wyandot. They occupied the eastern bank of Lake Huron and the southern + shores of the Georgian Bay. The knowledge of the several tribes here + referred to had been obtained by Champlain, partly from his own + observation and partly from the Indians. The Algommequins or + Algonquins, known at this time to Champlain, were from the region of + the Ottawa. The Yroquois or Iroquois dwelt south of the St. Lawrence + in the State of New York, and comprised what are generally known as + the Five Nations. The Montagnais or Montaignets had their great + trading-post at Tadoussac, and roamed over a vast territory north and + east of that point, and west of it as far as the mountains that + separate the waters of the Saguenay and those of the Ottawa. The name + was given to them by the French from this mountain range. The + Canadians were those about the neighborhood of Quebec. The Souriquois + were of Nova Scotia, and subsequently known as Micmacs. Of most of + these different tribes, Champlain could speak from personal knowledge. + +322. Laverdiere gives the exact latitude of Quebec at the Observatory, on + the authority of Captain Bayfield, as 46 deg. 49' 8". + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +THE SCURVY AT QUEBEC.--How THE WINTER PASSED.--DESCRIPTION OF THE PLACE.-- +ARRIVAL AT QUEBEC OF SIEUR DES MARAIS, SON-IN-LAW OF PONT GRAVE. + + +The scurvy began very late; namely, in February, and continued until the +middle of April. Eighteen were attacked, and ten died; five others dying of +the dysentery. I had some opened, to see whether they were tainted, like +those I had seen in our other settlements. They were found the same. Some +time after, our surgeon died. [323] All this troubled us very much, on +account of the difficulty we had in attending to the sick. The nature of +this disease I have described before. + +It is my opinion that this disease proceeds only from eating excessively of +salt food and vegetables, which heat the blood and corrupt the internal +parts. The winter is also, in part, its cause; since it checks the natural +warmth, causing a still greater corruption of the blood. There rise also +from the earth, when first cleared up, certain vapors which infect the air: +this has been observed in the case of those who have lived at other +settlements; after the first year when the sun had been let in upon what +was not before cleared up, as well in our abode as in other places, the air +was much better, and the diseases not so violent as before. But the country +is fine and pleasant, and brings to maturity all kinds of grains and feeds, +there being found all the various kinds of trees, which we have here in our +forests, and many fruits, although they are naturally wild; as, nut-trees, +cherry-trees, plum-trees, vines, raspberries, strawberries, currants, both +green and red, and several other small fruits, which are very good. There +are also several kinds of excellent plants and roots. Fishing is abundant +in the rivers; and game without limit on the numerous meadows bordering +them. From the month of April to the 15th of December, the air is so pure +and healthy that one does not experience the slightest indisposition. But +January, February, and March are dangerous, on account of the sicknesses +prevailing at this time, rather than in summer, for the reasons before +given; for, as to treatment, all of my company were well clothed, provided +with good beds, and well warmed and fed, that is, with the salt meats we +had, which, in my opinion, injured them greatly, as I have already stated. +As far as I have been able to see, the sickness attacks one who is delicate +in his living and takes particular care of himself as readily as one whose +condition is as wretched as possible. We supposed at first that the +workmen only would be attacked with this disease; but this we found was not +the case. Those sailing to the East Indies and various other regions, as +Germany and England, are attacked with it as well as in New France. Some +time ago, the Flemish, being attacked with this malady in their voyages to +the Indies, found a very strange remedy, which might be of service to us; +but we have never ascertained the character of it. Yet I am confident that, +with good bread and fresh meat, a person would not be liable to it. + +On the 8th of April, the snow had all melted; and yet the air was still +very cold until April, [324] when the trees begin to leaf out. + +Some of those sick with the scurvy were cured when Spring came, which is +the season for recovery. I had a savage of the country wintering with me, +who was attacked with this disease from having changed his diet to salt +meat; and he died from its effects, which clearly shows that salt food is +not nourishing, but quite the contrary in this disease. + +On the 5th of June, a shallop arrived at our settlement with Sieur des +Marais, a son-in-law of Pont Grave, bringing us the tidings that his +father-in-law had arrived at Tadoussac on the 28th of May. This +intelligence gave me much satisfaction, as we entertained hopes of +assistance from him. Only eight out of the twenty-eight at first forming +our company were remaining, and half of these were ailing. + +On the 7th of June, I set out from Quebec for Tadoussac on some matters of +business, and asked Sieur des Marais to stay in my place until my return, +which he did. + +Immediately upon my arrival, Pont Grave and I had a conference in regard to +some explorations which I was to make in the interior, where the savages +had promised to guide us. We determined that I should go in a Shallop with +twenty men, and that Pont Grave should stay at Tadoussac to arrange the +affairs of our settlement; and this determination was carried out, he +spending the winter there. This arrangement was especially desirable, since +I was to return to France, according to the orders sent out by Sieur de +Monts, in order to inform him of what I had done and the explorations I had +made in the country. + +After this decision, I, set out at once from Tadoussac, and returned to +Quebec, where I had a shallop fitted out with all that was necessary for +making explorations in the country of the Iroquois, where I was to go with +our allies, the Montagnais. + + +ENDNOTES: + +323. His name was Bonnerme.--_Vide antea_, p. 180. + +324. Read May instead of April. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +DEPARTURE FROM QUEBEC AND VOYAGE TO THE ILE ST. ELOI.--MEETING THERE WITH +THE ALGONQUINS AND OCHATAIGUINS. + + +With this purpose, I set out on the 18th of the month. Here the river +begins to widen, in some places to the breadth of a league or a league and +a half. The country becomes more and more beautiful. There are hills along +the river in part, and in part it is a level country, with but few rocks. +The river itself is dangerous in many places, in consequence of its banks +and rocks; and it is not safe sailing without keeping the lead in hand. The +river is very abundant in many kinds of fish, not only such as we have +here, but others which we have not. The country is thickly covered with +massive and lofty forests, of the same kind of trees as we have about our +habitation. There are also many vines and nut-trees on the bank of the +river, and many small brooks and streams which are only navigable with +canoes. We passed near Point St. Croix, which many maintain, as I have said +elsewhere, is the place where Jacques Cartier spent the winter. This point +is sandy, extending some distance out into the river, and exposed to the +north-west wind, which beats upon it. There are some meadows, covered +however every full tide, which falls nearly two fathoms and a half. This +passage is very dangerous on account of the large number of rocks +stretching across the river, although there is a good but very winding +channel, where the river runs like a race, rendering it necessary to take +the proper time for passing. This place has deceived many, who thought +they could only pass at high tide from there being no channel: but we have +now found the contrary to be true, for one can go down at low tide; but it +would be difficult to ascend, in consequence of the strong current, unless +there were a good wind. It is consequently necessary to wait until the tide +is a third flood, in order to pass, when the current in the channel is six, +eight, ten, twelve, and fifteen fathoms deep. + +Continuing our course, we reached a very pleasant river, nine leagues +distant from St. Croix and twenty-four from Quebec. This we named +St. Mary's River. [325] The river all the way from St. Croix is very +pleasant. + +Pursuing our route, I met some two or three hundred savages, who were +encamped in huts near a little island called St. Eloi, [326] a league and a +half distant from St. Mary. We made a reconnoissance, and found that they +were tribes of savages, called Ochateguins and Algonquins, [327] on their +way to Quebec, to assist us in exploring the territory of the Iroquois, +with whom they are in deadly hostility, sparing nothing belonging to their +enemies. + +After reconnoitring, I went on shore to see them, and inquired who their +chief was. They told me there were two, one named Yroquet, and the other +Ochasteguin, whom they pointed out to me. I went to their cabin, where they +gave me a cordial reception, as is their custom. + +I proceeded to inform them of the object of my voyage, with which they were +greatly pleased. After some talk, I withdrew. Some time after, they came to +my shallop, and presented me with some peltry, exhibiting many tokens of +pleasure. Then they returned to the shore. + +The next day, the two chiefs came to see me, when they remained some time +without saying a word, meditating and smoking all the while. After due +reflection, they began to harangue in a loud voice all their companions who +were on the bank of the river, with their arms in their hands, and +listening very attentively to what their chiefs said to them, which was as +follows: that nearly ten moons ago, according to their mode of reckoning, +the son of Yroquet had seen me, and that I had given him a good reception, +and declared that Pont Grave and I desired to assist them against their +enemies, with whom they had for a long time been at warfare, on account of +many cruel acts committed by them against their tribe, under color of +friendship; that, having ever since longed for vengeance, they had +solicited all the savages, whom I saw on the bank of the river, to come and +make an alliance with us, and that their never having seen Christians also +impelled them to come and visit us; that I should do with them and their +companions as I wished; that they had no children with them, but men versed +in war and full of courage, acquainted with the country and rivers in the +land of the Iroquois; that now they entreated me to return to our +settlement, that they might see our houses, and that, after three days, we +should all together come back to engage in the war; that, as a token of +firm friendship and joy, I should have muskets and arquebuses fired, at +which they would be greatly pleased. This I did, when they uttered great +cries of astonishment, especially those who had never heard nor seen the +like. + +After hearing them, I replied that, if they desired, I should be very glad +to return to our settlement, to gratify them still more; and that they +might conclude that I had no other purpose than to engage in the war, since +we carried with us nothing but arms, and not merchandise for barter, as +they had been given to understand; and that my only desire was to fulfill +what I had promised them; and that, if I had known of any who had made evil +reports to them, I should regard them as enemies more than they did +themselves. They told me that they believed nothing of them, and that they +never had heard any one speak thus. But the contrary was the case; for +there were some savages who told it to ours. I contented myself with +waiting for an opportunity to show them in fact something more than they +could have expected from me. + + +ENDNOTES: + +325. This river is now called the Sainte Anne. + +326. A small island near Batiscan, not on the charts. + +327. Hurons and Algonquins. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +RETURN TO QUEBEC.--CONTINUATION AFTERWARDS WITH THE SAVAGES TO THE FALL OF +THE RIVER OF THE IROQUOIS. + + +The next day, we set out all together for our settlement, where they +enjoyed themselves some five or six days, which were spent in dances and +festivities, on account of their eagerness for us to engage in the war. + +Pont Grave came forthwith from Tadoussac with two little barques full of +men, in compliance with a letter, in which I I begged him to come as +speedily as possible. + +The savages seeing him arrive rejoiced more than ever, inasmuch as I told +them that he had given some of his men to assist them, and that perhaps we +should go together. + +On the 28th of the month, [328] we equipped some barques for assisting +these savages. Pont Grave embarked on one and I on the other, when we all +set out together. The first of June, [329] we arrived at St. Croix, distant +fifteen leagues from Quebec, where Pont Grave and I concluded that, for +certain reasons, I should go with the savages, and he to our settlement and +to Tadoussac. This resolution being taken, I embarked in my shallop all +that was necessary, together with Des Marais and La Routte, our pilot, and +nine men. + +I set out from St. Croix on the 3d of June [330] with all the savages. We +passed the Trois Rivieres, a very beautiful country, covered with a growth +of fine trees. From this place to St. Croix is a distance of fifteen +leagues. At the mouth of the above-named river [331] there are six islands, +three of which are very small, the others some fifteen to sixteen hundred +paces long, very pleasant in appearance. Near Lake St. Peter, [332] some +two leagues up the river, there is a little fall not very difficult to +pass. This place is in latitude 46 deg., lacking some minutes. The savages of +the country gave us to understand that some days' journey up this river +there is a lake, through which the river flows. The length of the lake is +ten days' journey, when some falls are passed, and afterwards three or four +other lakes of five or six days' journey in length. Having reached the end +of these, they go four or five leagues by land, and enter still another +lake, where the Sacque has its principal source. From this lake, the +savages go to Tadoussac. [333] The Trois Rivieres extends forty days' +journey of the savages. They say that at the end of this river there is a +people, who are great hunters, without a fixed abode, and who are less than +six days' journey from the North Sea. What little of the country I have +seen is sandy, very high, with hills, covered with large quantities of pine +and fir on the river border; but some quarter of a league inland the woods +are very fine and open, and the country level. Thence we continued our +course to the entrance of Lake St. Peter, where the country is exceedingly +pleasant and level, and crossed the lake, in two, three, and four fathoms +of water, which is some eight leagues long and four wide. On the north +side, we saw a very pleasant river, extending some twenty leagues into the +interior, which I named St. Suzanne; on the south side, there are two, one +called Riviere du Pont, the other, Riviere de Gennes, [334] which are very +pretty, and in a fine and fertile country. The water is almost still in the +lake, which is full of fish. On the north bank, there are seen some slight +elevations at a distance of some twelve or fifteen leagues from the lake. +After crossing the lake, we passed a large number of islands of various +sizes, containing many nut-trees and vines, and fine meadows, with +quantities of game and wild animals, which go over from the main land to +these islands. Fish are here more abundant than in any other part of the +river that we had seen. From these islands, we went to the mouth of the +River of the Iroquois, where we stayed two days, refreshing ourselves with +good venison, birds, and fish, which the savages gave us. Here there sprang +up among them some difference of opinion on the subject of the war, so that +a portion only determined to go with me, while the others returned to their +country with their wives and the merchandise which they had obtained by +barter. + +Setting out from the mouth of this river, which is some four hundred to +five hundred paces broad, and very beautiful, running southward, [335] we +arrived at a place in latitude 45 deg., and twenty-two or twenty-three leagues +from the Trois Rivieres. All this river from its mouth to the first fall, +a distance of fifteen leagues, is very smooth, and bordered with woods, +like all the other places before named, and of the same forts. There are +nine or ten fine islands before reaching the fall of the Iroquois, which +are a league or a league and a half long, and covered with numerous oaks +and nut-trees. The river is nearly half a league wide in places, and very +abundant in fish. We found in no place less than four feet of water. The +approach to the fall is a kind of lake, [336] where the water descends, and +which is some three leagues in circuit. There are here some meadows, but +not inhabited by savages on account of the wars. There is very little water +at the fall, which runs with great rapidity. There are also many rocks and +stones, so that the savages cannot go up by water, although they go down +very easily. All this region is very level, covered with forests, vines, +and nut-trees. No Christians had been in this place before us; and we had +considerable difficulty in ascending the river with oars. + +As soon as we had reached the fall, Des Marais, La Routte, and I, with five +men, went on shore to see whether we could pass this place; but we went +some league and a half without seeing any prospect of being able to do so, +finding only water running with great swiftness, and in all directions many +stones, very dangerous, and with but little water about them. The fall is +perhaps six hundred paces broad. Finding that it was impossible to cut a +way through the woods with the small number of men that I had, I +determined, after consultation with the rest, to change my original +resolution, formed on the assurance of the savages that the roads were +easy, but which we did not find to be the case, as I have stated. We +accordingly returned to our shallop, where I had left some men as guards, +and to indicate to the savages upon their arrival that we had gone to make +explorations along the fall. + +After making what observations I wished in this place, we met, on +returning, some savages, who had come to reconnoitre, as we had done. They +told us that all their companions had arrived at our shallop, where we +found them greatly pleased, and delighted that we had gone in this manner +without a guide, aided only by the reports they had several times made to +us. + +Having returned, and seeing the slight prospect there was of passing the +fall with our shallop, I was much troubled. And it gave me especial +dissatisfaction to go back without seeing a very large lake, filled with +handsome islands, and with large tracts of fine land bordering on the lake, +where their enemies live according to their representations. After duly +thinking over the matter, I determined to go and fulfil my promise, and +carry out my desire. Accordingly, I embarked with the savages in their +canoes, taking with me two men, who went cheerfully. After making known my +plan to Des Marais and others in the shallop, I requested the former to +return to our settlement with the rest of our company, giving them the +assurance that, in a short time, by God's' grace, I would return to them. + +I proceeded forthwith to have a conference with the captains of the +savages, and gave them to understand that they had told me the opposite of +what my observations found to be the case at the fall; namely, that it was +impossible to pass it with the shallop, but that this would not prevent me +from assisting them as I had promised. This communication troubled them +greatly; and they desired to change their determination, but I urged them +not to do so, telling them that they ought to carry out their first plan, +and that I, with two others, would go to the war with them in their canoes, +in order to show them that, as for me, I would not break my word given to +them, although alone; but that I was unwilling then to oblige any one of my +companions to embark, and would only take with me those who had the +inclination to go, of whom I had found two. + +They were greatly pleased at what I said to them, and at the determination +which I had taken, promising, as before, to show me fine things. + + +ENDNOTES: + +328. The reader will observe that this must have been the 28th of June, + 1609. + +329. Read 1st of July. + +330. Read 3d of July. + +331. The river is now called St. Maurice; and the town at its mouth, Three + Rivers. Two islands at the mouth of the river divide it into three; + hence, it was originally called Trois Rivieres, or Three Rivers. + +332. Laverdiere suggests that Champlain entered this lake, now for the + first time called St. Peter, in 1603, on St. Peter's day, the 29th + June, and probably so named it from that circumstance. + +333. From the carrying-place they enter the Lake St. John, and from it + descend by the Saguenay to Tadoussac. In the preceding passage, Sacque + was plainly intended for Saguenay. + +334. Of the three rivers flowing into Lake St. Peter, none retains the name + given to them by Champlain. His _St. Suzanne_ is the river du Loup; + his _Riviere du Pont_ is the river St. Francois; and his _De Gennes_ + is now represented by the Yamaska. Compare Champlain's map of 1612 + with Laurie's Chart of the river St. Lawrence. + +335. This is an error: the River of the Iroquois, now commonly known as the + Richelieu, runs towards the north. + +336. The Chambly Basin. On Charlevoix's Carte de la Riviere Richelieu, it + is called Bassin de St. Louis. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +DEPARTURE FROM THE FALL OF THE IROQUOIS RIVER.--DESCRIPTION OF A LARGE +LAKE.--ENCOUNTER WITH THE ENEMY AT THIS LAKE; THEIR MANNER OF ATTACKING THE +IROQUOIS, AND THEIR BEHAVIOR IN BATTLE. + + +I set out accordingly from the fall of the Iroquois River [337] on the 2d +of July. [338] All the savages set to carrying their canoes, arms, and +baggage overland, some half a league, in order to pass by the violence and +strength of the fall, which was speedily accomplished. Then they put them +all in the water again, two men in each with the baggage; and they caused +one of the men of each canoe to go by land some three leagues, [339] the +extent of the fall, which is not, however, so violent here as at the mouth, +except in some places, where rocks obstruct the river, which is not broader +than three hundred or four hundred paces. After we had passed the fall, +which was attended with difficulty, all the savages, who had gone by land +over a good path and level country, although there are a great many trees, +re-embarked in their canoes. My men went also by land; but I went in a +canoe. The savages made a review of all their followers, finding that there +were twenty-four canoes, with sixty men. After the review was completed, we +continued our course to an island, [340] three leagues long, filled with +the finest pines I had ever seen. Here they went hunting, and captured +some wild animals. Proceeding about three leagues farther on, we made a +halt, in order to rest the coming night. + +They all at once set to work, some to cut wood, and others to obtain the +bark of trees for covering their cabins, for the sake of sheltering +themselves, others to fell large trees for; constructing a barricade on the +river-bank around their cabins, which they do so quickly that in less than +two hours so much is accomplished that five hundred of their enemies would +find it very difficult to dislodge them without killing large numbers. They +make no barricade on the river-bank, where their canoes are drawn up, in +order that they may be able to embark, if occasion requires. After they +were established in their cabins, they despatched three canoes, with nine +good men, according to their custom in all their encampments, to +reconnoitre for a distance of two or three leagues, to see if they can +perceive any thing, after which they return. They rest the entire night, +depending upon the observation of these scouts, which is a very bad custom +among them; for they are sometimes while sleeping surprised by their +enemies, who slaughter them before they have time to get up and prepare for +defence. Noticing this, I remonstrated with them on the mistake they made, +and told them that they ought to keep watch, as they had seen us do every +night, and have men on the lookout, in order to listen and see whether they +perceived any thing, and that they should not live in such a manner like +beasts. They replied that they could not keep watch, and that they worked +enough in the day-time in the chase, since, when engaged in war, they +divide their troops into three parts: namely, a part for hunting scattered +in several places; another to constitute the main body of their army, which +is always under arms; and the third to act as _avant-coureurs_, to look out +along the rivers, and observe whether they can see any mark or signal +showing where their enemies or friends have passed. This they ascertain by +certain marks which the chiefs of different tribes make known to each +other; but, these not continuing always the same, they inform themselves +from time to time of changes, by which means they ascertain whether they +are enemies or friends who have passed. The hunters never hunt in advance +of the main body, or _avant-coureurs_, so as not to excite alarm or produce +disorder, but in the rear and in the direction from which they do not +anticipate their enemy. Thus they advance until they are within two or +three days' march of their enemies, when they proceed by night stealthily +and all in a body, except the _van-couriers_. By day, they withdraw into +the interior of the woods, where they rest, without straying off, neither +making any noise nor any fire, even for the sake of cooking, so as not to +be noticed in case their enemies should by accident pass by. They make no +fire, except in smoking, which amounts to almost nothing. They eat baked +Indian meal, which they soak in water, when it becomes a kind of porridge. +They provide themselves with such meal to meet their wants, when they are +near their enemies, or when retreating after a charge, in which case they +are not inclined to hunt, retreating immediately. + +In all their encampments, they have their Pilotois, or Ostemoy, [341] a +class of persons who play the part of soothsayers, in whom these people +have faith. One of these builds a cabin, surrounds it with small pieces of +wood, and covers it with his robe: after it is built, he places himself +inside, so as not to be seen at all, when he seizes and shakes one of the +posts of his cabin, muttering some words between his teeth, by which he +says he invokes the devil, who appears to him in the form of a stone, and +tells him whether they will meet their enemies and kill many of them. This +Pilotois lies prostrate on the ground, motionless, only speaking with the +devil: on a sudden, he rises to his feet, talking, and tormenting himself +in such a manner that, although naked, he is all of a perspiration. All the +people surround the cabin, seated on their buttocks, like apes. They +frequently told me that the shaking of the cabin, which I saw, proceeded +from the devil, who made it move, and not the man inside, although I could +see the contrary; for, as I have stated above, it was the Pilotois who took +one of the supports of the cabin, and made it move in this manner. They +told me also that I should see fire come out from the top, which I did not +see at all. These rogues counterfeit also their voice, so that it is heavy +and clear, and speak in a language unknown to the other savages. And, when +they represent it as broken, the savages think that the devil is speaking, +and telling them what is to happen in their war, and what they must do. + +But all these scapegraces, who play the soothsayer, out of a hundred words, +do not speak two that are true, and impose upon these poor people. There +are enough like them in the world, who take food from the mouths of the +people by their impostures, as these worthies do. I often remonstrated with +the people, telling them that all they did was sheer nonsense, and that +they ought not to put confidence in them. + +Now, after ascertaining from their soothsayers what is to be their fortune, +the chiefs take sticks a foot long, and as many as there are soldiers. They +take others, somewhat larger, to indicate the chiefs. Then they go into the +wood, and seek out a level place, five or fix feet square, where the chief, +as sergeant-major, puts all the sticks in such order as seems to him best. +Then he calls all his companions, who come all armed; and he indicates to +them the rank and order they are to observe in battle with their enemies. +All the savages watch carefully this proceeding, observing attentively the +outline which their chief has made with the sticks. Then they go away, and +set to placing themselves in such order as the sticks were in, when they +mingle with each other, and return again to their proper order, which +manoeuvre they repeat two or three times, and at all their encampments, +without needing a sergeant to keep them in the proper order, which they are +able to keep accurately without any confusion. This is their rule in war. + +We set out on the next day, continuing our course in the river as far as +the entrance of the lake. There are many pretty islands here, low, and +containing very fine woods and meadows, with abundance of fowl and such +animals of the chase as stags, fallow-deer, fawns, roe-bucks, bears, and +others, which go from the main land to these islands. We captured a large +number of these animals. There are also many beavers, not only in this +river, but also in numerous other little ones that flow into it. These +regions, although they are pleasant, are not inhabited by any savages, on +account of their wars; but they withdraw as far as possible from the rivers +into the interior, in order not to be suddenly surprised. + +The next day we entered the lake, [342] which is of great extent, say +eighty or a hundred leagues long, where I saw four fine islands, ten, +twelve, and fifteen leagues long, which were formerly inhabited by the +savages, like the River of the Iroquois; but they have been abandoned since +the wars of the savages with one another prevail. There are also many +rivers falling into the lake, bordered by many fine trees of the same kinds +as those we have in France, with many vines finer than any I have seen in +any other place; also many chestnut-trees on the border of this lake, which +I had not seen before. There is also a great abundance of fish, of many +varieties: among others, one called by the savages of the country +_Chaousarou_ [343] which varies in length, the largest being, as the people +told me, eight or ten feet long. I saw some five feet long, which were as +large as my thigh; the head being as big as my two fists, with a snout two +feet and a half long, and a double row of very sharp and dangerous teeth. +Its body is, in shape, much like that of a pike; but it is armed with +scales so strong that a poniard could not pierce them. Its color is +silver-gray. The extremity of its snout is like that of a swine. This fish +makes war upon all others in the lakes and rivers. It also possesses +remarkable dexterity, as these people informed me, which is exhibited in +the following manner. When it wants to capture birds, it swims in among the +rushes, or reeds, which are found on the banks of the lake in several +places, where it puts its snout out of water and keeps perfectly still: so +that, when the birds come and light on its snout, supposing it to be only +the stump of a tree, it adroitly closes it, which it had kept ajar, and +pulls the birds by the feet down under water. The savages gave me the head +of one of them, of which they make great account, saying that, when they +have the headache, they bleed themselves with the teeth of this fish on the +spot where they suffer pain, when it suddenly passes away. + +Continuing our course over this lake on the western side, I noticed, while +observing the country, some very high mountains on the eastern side, on the +top of which there was snow. [344] I made inquiry of the savages whether +these localities were inhabited, when they told me that the Iroquois dwelt +there, and that there were beautiful valleys in these places, with plains +productive in grain, such as I had eaten in this country, together with +many kinds of fruit without limit. [345] They said also that the lake +extended near mountains, some twenty-five leagues distant from us, as I +judge. I saw, on the south, other mountains, no less high than the first, +but without any snow. [346] The savages told me that these mountains were +thickly settled, and that it was there we were to find their enemies; but +that it was necessary to pass a fall in order to go there (which I +afterwards saw), when we should enter another lake, nine or ten leagues +long. After reaching the end of the lake, we should have to go, they said, +two leagues by land, and pass through a river flowing into the sea on the +Norumbegue coast, near that of Florida, [347] whither it took them only two +days to go by canoe, as I have since ascertained from some prisoners we +captured, who gave me minute information in regard to all they had personal +knowledge of, through some Algonquin interpreters, who understood the +Iroquois language. + +Now, as we began to approach within two or three days' journey of the abode +of their enemies, we advanced only at night, resting during the day. But +they did not fail to practise constantly their accustomed superstitions, in +order to ascertain what was to be the result of their undertaking; and they +often asked me if I had had a dream, and seen their enemies, to which I +replied in the negative. Yet I did not cease to encourage them, and inspire +in them hope. When night came, we set out on the journey until the next +day, when we withdrew into the interior of the forest, and spent the rest +of the day there. About ten or eleven o'clock, after taking a little walk +about our encampment, I retired. While sleeping, I dreamed that I saw our +enemies, the Iroquois, drowning in the lake near a mountain, within sight. +When I expressed a wish to help them, our allies, the savages, told me we +must let them all die, and that they were of no importance. When I awoke, +they did not fail to ask me, as usual, if I had had a dream. I told them +that I had, in fact, had a dream. This, upon being related, gave them so +much confidence that they did not doubt any longer that good was to happen +to them. + +When it was evening, we embarked in our canoes to continue our course; and, +as we advanced very quietly and without making any noise, we met on the +29th of the month the Iroquois, about ten o'clock at evening, at the +extremity of a cape which extends into the lake on the western bank. They +had come to fight. We both began to utter loud cries, all getting their +arms in readiness. We withdrew out on the water, and the Iroquois went on +shore, where they drew up all their canoes close to each other and began to +fell trees with poor axes, which they acquire in war sometimes, using also +others of stone. Thus they barricaded themselves very well. + +Our forces also passed the entire night, their canoes being drawn up close +to each other, and fastened to poles, so that they might not get separated, +and that they might be all in readiness to fight, if occasion required. We +were out upon the water, within arrow range of their barricades. When they +were armed and in array, they despatched two canoes by themselves to the +enemy to inquire if they wished to fight, to which the latter replied that +they wanted nothing else; but they said that, at present, there was not +much light, and that it would be necessary to wait for daylight, so as to +be able to recognize each other; and that, as soon as the sun rose, they +would offer us battle. This was agreed to by our side. Meanwhile, the +entire night was spent in dancing and singing, on both sides, with endless +insults and other talk; as, how little courage we had, how feeble a +resistance we would make against their arms, and that, when day came, we +should realize it to our ruin. Ours also were not slow in retorting, +telling them they would see such execution of arms as never before, +together with an abundance of such talk as is not unusual in the siege of a +town. After this singing, dancing, and bandying words on both sides to the +fill, when day came, my companions and myself continued under cover, for +fear that the enemy would see us. We arranged our arms in the best manner +possible, being, however, separated, each in one of the canoes of the +savage Montagnais. After arming ourselves with light armor, we each took an +arquebuse, and went on shore. I saw the enemy go out of their barricade, +nearly two hundred in number, stout and rugged in appearance. They came at +a slow pace towards us, with a dignity and assurance which greatly amused +me, having three chiefs at their head. Our men also advanced in the same +order, telling me that those who had three large plumes were the chiefs, +and that they had only these three, and that they could be distinguished by +these plumes, which were much larger than those of their companions, and +that I should do what I could to kill them. I promised to do all in my +power, and said that I was very sorry they could not understand me, so that +I might give order and shape to their mode of attacking their enemies, and +then we should, without doubt, defeat them all; but that this could not now +be obviated, and that I should be very glad to show them my courage and +good-will when we should engage in the fight. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OP THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +DEFEAT OF THE IROQUOIS AT LAKE CHAMPLAIN. + +_A_. The fort of the Iroquois. +_B_. The enemy. +_C_. Canoes of the enemy, made of oak bark, each holding ten, fifteen, or + eighteen men. +_D_. Two chiefs who were killed. +_E_. One of the enemy wounded by a musket-shot of Sieur de Champlain. +_F_. Sieur de Champlain. +_G_. Two musketeers of Sieur de Champlain. +_H_. Montagnais, Ochastaiguins, and Algonquins. +_I_. Canoes of our allied savages made of birch bark. +_K_. The woods. + +NOTES. The letters _A_, _F_, _G_, and _K_, are wanting but the objects to +which they point are easily recognized. The letter _H_ has been placed on +the canoes of the allies instead of the collected body of the allies +immediately above them. + + * * * * * + +As soon as we had landed, they began to run for some two hundred paces +towards their enemies, who stood firmly, not having as yet noticed my +companions, who went into the woods with some savages. Our men began to +call me with loud cries; and, in order to give me a passage-way, they +opened in two parts, and put me at their head, where I marched some twenty +paces in advance of the rest, until I was within about thirty paces of the +enemy, who at once noticed me, and, halting, gazed at me, as I did also at +them. When I saw them making a move to fire at us, I rested my musket +against my cheek, and aimed directly at one of the three chiefs. With the +same shot, two fell to the ground; and one of their men was so wounded that +he died some time after. I had loaded my musket with four balls. When our +side saw this shot so favorable for them, they began to raise such loud +cries that one could not have heard it thunder. Meanwhile, the arrows flew +on both sides. The Iroquois were greatly astonished that two men had been +so quickly killed, although they were equipped with armor woven from cotton +thread, and with wood which was proof against their arrows. This caused +great alarm among them. As I was loading again, one of my companions fired +a shot from the woods, which astonished them anew to such a degree that, +seeing their chiefs dead, they lost courage, and took to flight, abandoning +their camp and fort, and fleeing into the woods, whither I pursued them, +killing still more of them. Our savages also killed several of them, and +took ten or twelve prisoners. The remainder escaped with the wounded. +Fifteen or sixteen were wounded on our side with arrow-shots; but they were +soon healed. + +After gaining the victory, our men amused themselves by taking a great +quantity of Indian corn and some meal from their enemies, also their armor, +which they had left behind that they might run better. After feasting +sumptuously, dancing and singing, we returned three hours after, with the +prisoners. The spot where this attack took place is in latitude 43 deg. and +some minutes, [348] and the lake was called Lake Champlain. [349] + +ENDNOTES: + +337. The River of the Iroquois, so called by Champlain, was long known by + that name, says Charlevoix, because these Indians generally descended + it, in order to make their inroads into the colony. Fort Richelieu, at + the mouth of the river, erected in 1641, was named after the + celebrated Cardinal, the river having already taken his name. This + fort having been demolished, another was built by M. de Sorel, a + French officer in command, which took his name, as likewise did the + river. A fort was built on the same river at the present village of + Chambly in 1664, and called Fort St. Louis. This wooden structure was + replaced by another of stone, erected prior to 1721, to which the name + of Chambly was given, as likewise by some writers to the river. The + river has likewise sometimes been called the St. Johns, but the + prevailing name is the Richelieu. + +338. Read the 12th of July. + +339. This fall is now avoided, and the navigation of the Richelieu secured + by a canal connecting Chambly Basin and St. Johns, a distance of about + ten miles. + +340. It is not entirely certain what island is here referred to. It has + been supposed to be the Island of St. Therese. But, taking all of + Champlain's statements into consideration, the logical inference would + be that it is the Isle aux Noix. + +341. "These two words were used in Acadie to indicate the _jongleur_, or + sorcerer. The word _pilotois_, according to P. Biard, Rel. 1611, + p. 17, came from the Basques, the Souriquois using the word _autmoin_, + which Lescarbot writes _aoutmoin_, and Champlain _ostemoy_. + P. Lejeune, in the Relation of 1636, p. 13, informs us that the + Montagnais called their Sorcerers _manitousiouekbi_: and according to + P. Brebeuf. Rel. 1635. p.35. the Hurons designated theirs by the name + _arendiouane_."--_Laverdiere, in loco_. + +342. The distances are here overstated by more than threefold, both in + reference to the lake and the islands. This arose, perhaps, from the + slow progress made in the birch canoes with a party of sixty + undisciplined savages, a method of travelling to which Champlain was + unaccustomed; and he may likewise have been misled by the + exaggerations of the Indians, or he may have sailed to comprehend + their representation of distances. + +343. Of the meaning of _chaousarou_, the name given by the Indians to this + fish, we have no knowledge. It is now known as the bony-scaled pike, + or gar pike, _Lepidosteus osseus_. It is referred to by several early + writers after Champlain. + + "I saw," says Sagard, "in the cabin of a Montagnais Indian a certain + fish, which some call Chaousarou, as big as a large pike. It was only + an ordinary sized one, for many larger ones are seen, eight, nine, and + ten feet long, as is said. It had a snout about a foot and a half + long, of about the same shape as that of the snipe, except that the + extremity is blunt and not so pointed, and of a large size in + proportion to the body. It has a double row of teeth, which are very + sharp and dangerous;... and the form of the body is like that of a + pike, but it is armed with very stout and hard scales, of silver gray + color, and difficult to be pierced."--_Sagard's History of Canada_, + Bk. _iii_. p. 765; _Laverdiere_. Sagard's work was published in 1636. + He had undoubtedly seen this singular fish; but his description is so + nearly in the words of Champlain as to suggest that he had taken it + from our author. + + Creuxius, in his History of Canada, published at Paris in 1664, + describes this fish nearly in the words of Champlain, with an + engraving sufficiently accurate for identification, but greatly + wanting in scientific exactness. He adds, "It is not described by + ancient authors, probably because it is only found in the Lake of the + Iroquois;" that is, in Lake Champlain. From which it may be inferred + that at that time it had not been discovered in other waters. By the + French, he says, it is called _piscis armatus_. This is in evident + allusion to its bony scales, in which it is protected as in a coat of + mail. + + It is described by Dr. Kay in the Natural History of New York, + Zooelogy, Part I. p 271. On Plate XLIII. Fig. 139, of the same work, + the reader will observe that the head of the fish there represented + strikingly resembles that of the chaousarou of Champlain as depicted + on his map of 1612. The drawing by Champlain is very accurate, and + clearly identifies the Gar Pike. This singular fish has been found in + Lake Champlain, the river St. Lawrence, and in the northern lakes, + likewise in the Mississippi River, where is to be found also a closely + related species commonly called the alligator gar. In the Museum of + the Boston Society of Natural History are several specimens, one of + them from St. John's River, Florida, four feet and nine inches in + length, of which the head is seventeen and a half inches. If the body + of those seen by Champlain was five feet, the head two and a half feet + would be in about the usual proportion. + +344. The Green Mountain range in Vermont, generally not more than twenty or + twenty-five miles distant. Champlain was probably deceived as to the + snow on their summits in July. What he saw was doubtless white + limestone, which might naturally enough be taken for snow in the + absence of any positive knowledge. The names of the summits visible + from the lake are the following, with their respective heights. The + Chin, 4,348 feet; The Nose, 4,044; Camel's Hump, 4,083; Jay's Peak, + 4,018; Killington Peak, 3,924. This region was at an early period + called _Irocosia_. + +345. This is not an inaccurate description of the beautiful as well as rich + and fertile valleys to be found among the hills of Vermont. + +346. On entering the lake, they saw the Adirondack Mountains, which would + appear very nearly in the south. The points visible from the lake were + Mt. Marcy, 5,467 feet high above tide-water; Dix's Peak, 5,200; Nipple + Top, 4,900; Whiteface, 4,900; Raven Hill, 2,100; Bald Peak, 2,065.-- + _Vide Palmer's Lake Champlain_, p. 12. + +347. The river here referred to is the Hudson. By passing from Lake + Champlain through the small stream that connects it with Lake George, + over this latter lake and a short carrying place, the upper waters of + the Hudson are reached. The coast of Norumbegue and that of Florida + were both indefinite regions, not well defined by geographers of that + day. These terms were supplied by Champlain, and not by his + informants. He could not of course tell precisely where this unknown + river reached the sea, but naturally inferred that it was on the + southern limit of Norumbegue, which extended from the Penobscot + towards Florida, which latter at that time was supposed to extend from + the Gulf of Mexico indefinitely to the north. + +348. This battle, or Skirmish, clearly took place at Ticonderoga, or + _Cheonderoga_, as the Indians called it, where a cape juts out into + the lake, as described by Champlain. This is the logical inference to + be drawn from the whole narrative. It is to be observed that the + purpose of the Indians, whom Champlain was accompanying, was to find + their enemies, the Iroquois, and give them battle. The journey, or + warpath, had been clearly marked out and described by the Indians to + Champlain, as may be seen in the text. It led them along the western + shore of the lake to the outlet of Lake George, over the fall in the + little stream connecting the two lakes, through Lake George, and + thence to the mountains beyond, where the Iroquois resided. They found + the Iroquois, however, on the lake; gave them battle on the little + cape alluded to; and after the victory and pursuit for some distance + into the forest, and the gathering up of the spoils, Champlain and his + allies commenced their journey homeward. But Champlain says he saw the + fall in the stream that connects the two lakes. Now this little stream + flows into Lake Champlain at Ticonderoga, and he would naturally have + seen the fall, if the battle took place there, while in pursuit of the + Iroquois into the forest, as described in the text. The fall was in + the line of the retreat of the Iroquois towards their home, and is + only a mile and three-quarters from the cape jutting out into the lake + at Ticonderoga. If the battle had occurred at any point north of + Ticonderoga, he could not have seen the fall, as they retreated + immediately after the battle: if it had taken place south of that + point, it would have been off the war-path which they had determined + to pursue. We must conclude, therefore, that the battle took place at + Ticonderoga, a little north of the ruins of the old Fort Carillon, + directly on the shore of the lake. If the reader will examine the plan + of the battle as given by Champlain's engraving, he will see that it + conforms with great exactness to the known topography of the place. + The Iroquois, who had their choice of positions are on the north, in + the direction of Willow Point, where they can most easily retreat, and + where Champlain and his allies can be more easily hemmed in near the + point of the cape. The Iroquois are on lower ground, and we know that + the surface there shelves to the north. The well-known sandy bottom of + the lake at this place would furnish the means of fastening the + canoes, by forcing poles into it, a little out from the shore during + the night, as they actually did. On Champlain's map of 1632, this + point is referred to as the location of the battle; and in his note on + the map. No. 65, he says this is the place where the Iroquois were + defeated by Champlain. All the facts of the narrative thus point to + Ticonderoga, and render it indisputable that this was the scene of the + first of the many recorded conflicts on this memorable lake. We should + not have entered into this discussion so fully, had not several + writers, not well informed, expressed views wholly inconsistent with + known facts. + +349. The Indian name of Lake Champlain is _Caniaderiguaronte_, the lake + that is the gate of the country.--_Vide Administration of the + Colonies_, by Thomas Pownall. 1768, p. 267. This name was very + significant, since the lake and valley of Champlain was the "gate," or + war-path, by which the hostile tribes of Iroquois approached their + enemies on the north of the St. Lawrence, and _vice-versa_. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +RETURN FROM THE BATTLE, AND WHAT TOOK PLACE ON THE WAY. + + +After going some eight leagues, towards evening they took one of the +prisoners, to whom they made a harangue, enumerating the cruelties which he +and his men had already practised towards them without any mercy, and that, +in like manner, he ought to make up his mind to receive as much. They +commanded him to sing, if he had courage, which he did; but it was a very +sad song. + +Meanwhile, our men kindled a fire; and, when it was well burning, they each +took a brand, and burned this poor creature gradually, so as to make him +suffer greater torment. Sometimes they stopped, and threw water on his +back. Then they tore out his nails, and applied fire to the extremities of +his fingers and private member. Afterwards, they flayed the top of his +head, and had a kind of gum poured all hot upon it; then they pierced his +arms near the wrists, and, drawing up the sinews with sticks, they tore +them out by force; but, seeing that they could not get them, they cut +them. This poor wretch uttered terrible cries, and it excited my pity to +see him treated in this manner, and yet showing such firmness that one +would have said, at times, that he suffered hardly any pain at all. They +urged me strongly to take some fire, and do as they did. I remonstrated +with them, saying that we practised no such cruelties, but killed them at +once; and that, if they wished me to fire a musket-shot at him, I should be +willing to do so. They refused, saying that he would not in that case +suffer any pain. I went away from them, pained to see such cruelties as +they practised upon his body. When they saw that I was displeased, they +called me, and told me to fire a musket-shot at him. This I did without his +feeing it, and thus put an end, by a single shot, to all the torments he +would have suffered, rather than see him tyrannized over. After his death, +they were not yet satisfied, but opened him, and threw his entrails into +the lake. Then they cut off his head, arms, and legs, which they scattered +in different directions; keeping the scalp which they had flayed off, as +they had done in the case of all the rest whom they had killed in the +contest. They were guilty also of another monstrosity in taking his heart, +cutting it into several pieces, and giving it to a brother of his to eat, +as also to others of his companions, who were prisoners: they took it into +their mouths, but would not swallow it. Some Algonquin savages, who were +guarding them, made some of them spit it out, when they threw it into the +water. This is the manner in which these people behave towards those whom +they capture in war, for whom it would be better to die fighting, or to +kill themselves on the spur of the moment, as many do, rather than fall +into the hands of their enemies. After this execution, we set out on our +return with the rest of the prisoners, who kept singing as they went along, +with no better hopes for the future than he had had who was so wretchedly +treated. + +Having arrived at the falls of the Iroquois, the Algonquins returned to +their own country; so also the Ochateguins, [350] with a part of the +prisoners: well satisfied with the results of the war, and that I had +accompanied them so readily. We separated accordingly with loud +protestations of mutual friendship; and they asked me whether I would not +like to go into their country, to assist them with continued fraternal +relations; and I promised that I would do so. + +I returned with the Montagnais. After informing myself from the prisoners +in regard to their country, and of its probable extent, we packed up the +baggage for the return, which was accomplished with such despatch that we +went every day in their canoes twenty-five or thirty leagues, which was +their usual rate of travelling. When we arrived at the mouth of the river +Iroquois, some of the savages dreamed that their enemies were pursuing +them. This dream led them to move their camp forthwith, although the night +was very inclement on account of the wind and rain; and they went and +passed the remainder of the night, from fear of their enemies, amid high +reeds on Lake St. Peter. Two days after, we arrived at our settlement, +where I gave them some bread and peas; also some beads, which they asked me +for, in order to ornament the heads of their enemies, for the purpose of +merry-making upon their return. The next day, I went with them in their +canoes as far as Tadoussac, in order to witness their ceremonies. On +approaching the shore, they each took a stick, to the end of which they +hung the heads of their enemies, who had been killed, together with some +beads, all of them singing. When they were through with this, the women +undressed themselves, so as to be in a state of entire nudity, when they +jumped into the water, and swam to the prows, of the canoes to take the +heads of their enemies, which were on the ends of long poles before their +boats: then they hung them about their necks, as if it had been some costly +chain, singing and dancing meanwhile. Some days after, they presented me +with one of these heads, as if it were something very precious; and also +with a pair of arms taken from their enemies, to keep and show to the +king. This, for the sake of gratifying them, I promised to do. + +After some days, I went to Quebec, whither some Algonquin savages came, +expressing their regret at not being present at the defeat of their +enemies, and presenting me with some furs, in consideration of my having +gone there and assisted their friends. + +Some days after they had set out for their country, distant about a hundred +and twenty leagues from our settlement, I went to Tadoussac to see whether +Pont Grave had returned from Gaspe, whither he had gone. He did not arrive +until the next day, when he told me that he had decided to return to +France. We concluded to leave an upright man, Captain Pierre Chavin of +Dieppe, to command at Quebec, until Sieur de Monts should arrange matters +there. + + +ENDNOTES: + +350. The Indian allies on this expedition were the Algonquins + (_Algoumequins_), the Hurons (_Ochatequins_), and the Montagnais + (_Montagnets_). The two former, on their way to Quebec, had met + Champlain near the river St. Anne, and joined him and the Montagnais, + who belonged in the neighborhood of Tadoussac, or farther east.--_Vide + antea_, p. 202. They now, at the falls near the Basin of Chambly, + departed to their homes, perhaps on the Ottawa River and the shores of + Lake Huron. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +RETURN TO FRANCE, AND WHAT OCCURRED UP TO THE TIME OP RE-EMBARKATION. + + +After forming this resolution, we went to Quebec to establish him in +authority, and leave him every thing requisite and necessary for the +settlement, together with fifteen men. Every thing being arranged, we set +out on the first day of September [351] for Tadoussac, in order to fit out +our vessel for returning to France. + +We set out accordingly from the latter place on the 5th of the month, and +on the 8th anchored at Isle Percee. On Thursday the 10th, we set out from +there, and on the 18th, the Tuesday following, we arrived at the Grand +Bank. On the 2d of October, we got soundings. On the 8th, we anchored at +Conquet [352] in Lower Brittany. On Saturday the 10th, we set out from +there, arriving at Honfleur on the 13th. + +After disembarking, I did not wait long before taking post to go to Sieur +de Monts, who was then at Fontainebleau, where His Majesty was. Here I +reported to him in detail all that had transpired in regard to the winter +quarters and our new explorations, and my hopes for the future in view of +the promises of the savages called Ochateguins, who are good Iroquois. +[353] The other Iroquois, their enemies, dwell more to the south. The +language of the former does not differ much from that of the people +recently discovered and hitherto unknown to us, which they understand when +spoken. + +I at once waited upon His Majesty, and gave him an account of my voyage, +which afforded him pleasure and satisfaction. I had a girdle made of +porcupine quills, very well worked, after the manner of the country where +it was made, and which His Majesty thought very pretty. I had also two +little birds, of the size of blackbirds and of a carnation color; [354] +also, the head of a fish caught in the great lake of the Iroquois, having a +very long snout and two or three rows of very sharp teeth. A representation +of this fish may be found on the great lake, on my geographical map. [355] + +After I had concluded my interview with His Majesty, Sieur de Monts +determined to go to Rouen to meet his associates, the Sieurs Collier and Le +Gendre, merchants of Rouen, to consider what should be done the coming +year. They resolved to continue the settlement, and finish the explorations +up the great river St. Lawrence, in accordance with the promises of the +Ochateguins, made on condition that we should assist them in their wars, as +I had given them to understand. + +Pont Grave was appointed to go to Tadoussac, not only for traffic, but to +engage in any thing else that might realize means for defraying the +expenses. + +Sieur Lucas Le Gendre, of Rouen, one of the partners, was ordered to see to +the purchase of merchandise and supplies, the repair of the vessels, +obtaining crews, and other things necessary for the voyage. + +After these matters were arranged, Sieur de Monts returned to Paris, I +accompanying him, where I stayed until the end of February. During this +time, Sieur de Monts endeavored to obtain a new commission for trading in +the newly discovered regions, and where no one had traded before. This he +was unable to accomplish, although his requests and proposals were just and +reasonable. + +But, finding that there was no hope of obtaining this commission, he did +not cease to prosecute his plan, from his desire that every thing might +turn out to the profit and honor of France. + +During this time, Sieur de Monts did not express to me his pleasure in +regard to me personally, until I told him it had been reported to me that +he did not wish to have me winter in Canada, which, however, was not true, +for he referred the whole matter to my pleasure. + +I provided myself with whatever was desirable and necessary for spending +the winter at our settlement in Quebec. For this purpose I set out from +Paris the last day of February following, [356] and proceeded to Honfleur, +where the embarkation was to be made. I went by way of Rouen, where I +stayed two days. Thence I went to Honfleur, where I found Pont Grave and Le +Gendre, who told me they had embarked what was necessary for the +settlement. I was very glad to find that we were ready to set sail, but +uncertain whether the supplies were good and adequate for our sojourn and +for spending the winter. + +ENDNOTES: + +351. September, 1609. + +352. A small seaport town in the department of Finisterre, twelve miles + west of Brest. + +353. The Ochateguins, called by the French Hurons, were a branch of the + Iroquois. Their real name was Yendots. They were at this time allied + with the Algonquins, in a deadly war with their Iroquois cousins, the + Five Nations.--_Vide Gallatins Synopsis_, Transactions of Am. Antiq. + Society, Cambridge, 1836, Vol. II. p. 69, _et passim_. + +354. The Scarlet tanager, _Pyranga rubra_, of a scarlet color, with black + wings and tail. It ranges from Texas to Lake Huron. + +355. _Vide antea_, p. 216; and map. 1612. + +356. Anno Domini 1610. + + + +SECOND VOYAGE +OF +SIEUR. DE CHAMPLAIN +TO NEW FRANCE, IN THE YEAR 1610. + + + +CHAPTER I. + +DEPARTURE FROM FRANCE TO RETURN TO NEW FRANCE, AND OCCURRENCES UNTIL OUR +ARRIVAL AT THE SETTLEMENT. + + +The weather having become favorable, I embarked at Honfleur with a number +of artisans on the 7th of the month of March. [357] But, encountering bad +weather in the Channel, we were obliged to put in on the English coast at a +place called Porlan, [358] in the roadstead of which we stayed some days, +when we weighed anchor for the Isle d'Huy, [359] near the English coast, +since we found the roadstead of Porlan very bad. When near this island, so +dense a fog arose, that we were obliged to put in at the Hougue. [360] + +Ever since the departure from Honfleur, I had been afflicted with a very +severe illness, which took away my hopes of being able to make the voyage; +so that I embarked in a boat to return to Havre in France, to be treated +there, being very ill on board the vessel. My expectation was, on +recovering my health, to embark again in another vessel, which had not yet +left Honfleur, in which Des Marais, son-in-law of Pont Grave, was to +embark; but I had myself carried, still very ill, to Honfleur, where the +vessel on which I had set out put in on the 15th of March, for some +ballast, which it needed in order to be properly trimmed. Here it remained +until the 8th of April. During this time, I recovered in a great degree; +and, though still feeble and weak, I nevertheless embarked again. + +We set out anew on the 18th of April, arriving at the Grand Bank on the +19th, and fighting the Islands of St. Pierre on the 22nd. [361] When off +Menthane, we met a vessel from St. Malo, on which was a young man, who, +while drinking to the health of Pont Grave, lost control of himself and was +thrown into the Sea by the motion of the vessel and drowned, it being +impossible to render him assistance on account of the violence of the wind. + +On the 26th of the month, we arrived at Tadoussac, where there were vessels +which had arrived on the 18th, a thing which had not been seen for more +than sixty years, as the old mariners said who sail regularly to this +country. [362] This was owing to the mild winter and the small amount of +ice, which did not prevent the entrance of these vessels. We learned from a +young nobleman, named Sieur du Parc, who had spent the winter at our +settlement, that all his companions were in good health, only a few having +been ill, and they but slightly. He also informed us that there had been +scarcely any winter, and that they had usually had fresh meat the entire +season, and that their hardest task had been to keep up good cheer. + +This winter shows how those undertaking in future such enterprises ought to +proceed, it being very difficult to make a new settlement without labor; +and without encountering adverse fortune the first year, as has been the +case in all our first settlements. But, in fact, by avoiding salt food and +using fresh meat, the health is as good here as in France. + +The savages had been waiting from day to day for us to go to the war with +them. When they learned that Pont Grave and I had arrived together, they +rejoiced greatly, and came to speak with us. + +I went on shore to assure them that we would go with them, in conformity +with the promises they had made me, namely, that upon our return from the +war they would show me the Trois Rivieres, and take me to a sea so large +that the end of it cannot be seen, whence we should return by way of the +Saguenay to Tadoussac. I asked them if they still had this intention, to +which they replied that they had, but that it could not be carried out +before the next year, which pleased me. But I had promised the Algonquins +and Ochateguins that I would assist them also in their wars, they having +promised to show me their country, the great lake, some copper mines, and +other things, which they had indicated to me. I accordingly had two strings +to my bow, so that, in case one should break, the other might hold. + +On the 28th of the month, I set out from Tadoussac for Quebec, where I +found Captain Pierre, [363] who commanded there, and all his companions in +good health. There was also a savage captain with them, named Batiscan, +with some of his companions, who were awaiting us, and who were greatly +pleased at my arrival, singing and dancing the entire evening. I provided a +banquet for them, which gratified them very much. They had a good meal, for +which they were very thankful, and invited me with seven others to an +entertainment of theirs, not a small mark of respect with them. We each +one carried a porringer, according to custom, and brought it home full of +meat, which we gave to whomsoever we pleased. + +Some days after I had set out from Tadoussac, the Montagnais arrived at +Quebec, to the number of sixty able-bodied men, en route for the war. They +tarried here some days, enjoying themselves, and not omitting to ply me +frequently with questions, to assure themselves that I would not fail in my +promises to them. I assured them, and again made promises to them, asking +them if they had found me breaking my word in the past. They were greatly +pleased when I renewed my promises to them. + +They said to me: "Here are numerous Basques and Mistigoches" (this is the +name they give to the Normans and people of St. Malo), "who say they will +go to the war with us. What do you think of it? Do they speak the truth?" +I answered no, and that I knew very well what they really meant; that they +said this only to get possession of their commodities. They replied to me: +"You have spoken the truth. They are women, and want to make war only upon +our beavers." They went on talking still farther in a facetious mood, and +in regard to the manner and order of going to the war. + +They determined to set out, and await me at the Trois Rivieres, thirty +leagues above Quebec, where I had promised to join them, together with four +barques loaded with merchandise, in order to traffic in peltries, among +others with the Ochateguins, who were to await me at the mouth of the river +of the Iroquois, as they had promised the year before, and to bring there +as many as four hundred men to go to the war. + + +ENDNOTES: + +357. In the title above, Champlain calls this his SECOND VOYAGE, by which + he means doubtless to say that this is the second voyage which he had + undertaken as lieutenant. The first and second voyages, of 1603 and of + 1604, were not made under his direction. + +358. Portland in Dorsetshire, England. + +359. _Isle d'Huy_. This plainly refers to the Isle of Wight. On Ortelius's + carte of 1603. it is spelled Vigt: and the orthography, obtained + probably through the ear and not the eye, might easily have been + mistaken by Champlain. + +360. _La Hougue_. There are two small islands laid down on the carte of + Ortelius. 1603, under the name _Les Hougueaux_, and a hamlet nearby + called Hougo, which is that, doubtless, to which Chaimplain here + refers. + +361. Comparing this statement with the context, it will be clear that the + passage should read the 8th, and not the 18th of April. The "Islands + of St. Pierre," _Isles S. Pierre_, includes the Island of St. Peter + and the cluster surrounding it. + +362. M. Ferland infers from this statement that the Basques, Normans, and + Bretons had been accustomed for the last sixty years, from the last + voyage of Roberval in 1549, to extend their fishing and fur-trading + voyages as far as Tadoussac.--_Vide Cours d'Hist. du Canada_, as cited + by Laverdiere. + +363. Captain Pierre Chavin, of Dieppe. _Vide antea_, p. 227. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +DEPARTURE FROM QUEBEC TO ASSIST OUR ALLIED SAVAGES IN THEIR WAR AGAINST THE +IROQUOIS, THEIR ENEMIES; AND ALL THAT TRANSPIRED UNTIL OUR RETURN TO THE +SETTLEMENT. + + +I set out from Quebec on the 14th of June, to meet the Montagnais, +Algonquins, and Ochateguins, who were to be at the mouth of the river of +the Iroquois. When I was eight leagues from Quebec, I met a canoe, +containing two savages, one an Algonquin, and the other a Montagnais, who +entreated me to advance as rapidly as possible, saying that the Algonquins +and Ochateguins would in two days be at the rendezvous, to the number of +two hundred, with two hundred others to come a little later, together with +Yroquet, one of their chiefs. They asked me if I was satisfied with the +coming of these savages. I told them I could not be displeased at it, since +they had kept their word. They came on board my barque, where I gave them a +good entertainment. Shortly after conferring with them about many matters +concerning their wars, the Algonquin savage, one of their chiefs, drew from +a sack a piece of copper a foot long, which he gave me. This was very +handsome and quite pure. He gave me to understand that there were large +quantities where he had taken this, which was on the bank of a river, near +a great lake. He said that they gathered it in lumps, and, having melted +it, spread it in sheets, smoothing it with stones. I was very glad of this +present, although of small value. [364] + +Arriving at Trois Rivieres, I found all the Montagnais awaiting me, and the +four barques as I stated above, which had gone to trade with them. + +The savages were delighted to see me, and I went on shore to speak with +them. They entreated me, together with my companions, to embark on their +canoes and no others, when we went to the war, saying that they were our +old friends. This I promised them, telling them that I desired to set out +at once, since the wind was favorable; and that my barque was not so swift +as their canoes, for which reason I desired to go on in advance. They +earnestly entreated me to wait until the morning of the next day, when we +would all go together, adding that they would not go faster than I should. +Finally, to satisfy them, I promised to do this, at which they were greatly +pleased. + +On the following day, we all set out together, and continued our route +until the morning of the next day, the 19th of the month, when we arrived +at an island [365] off the river of the Iroquois, and waited for the +Algonquins, who were to be there the same day. While the Montagnais were +felling trees to clear a place for dancing, and for arranging themselves +for the arrival of the Algonquins, an Algonquin canoe was suddenly seen +coming in haste, to bring word that the Algonquins had fallen in with a +hundred Iroquois, who were strongly barricaded, and that it would be +difficult to conquer them, unless they should come speedily, together with +the Matigoches, as they call us. + +The alarm at once sounded among them, and each one got into his canoe with +his arms. They were quickly in readiness, but with confusion; for they were +so precipitous that, instead of making haste, they hindered one another. +They came to our barque and the others, begging me, together with my +companions, to go with them in their canoes, and they were so urgent that I +embarked with four others. I requested our pilot, La Routte, to stay in the +barque, and send me some four or five more of my companions, if the other +barques would send some shallops with men to aid us; for none of the +barques were inclined to go with the savages, except Captain Thibaut, who, +having a barque there, went with me. The savages cried out to those who +remained, saying that they were woman-hearted, and that all they could do +was to make war upon their peltry. + +Meanwhile, after going some half a league, all the savages crossing the +river landed, and, leaving their canoes, took their bucklers, bows, arrows, +clubs, and swords, which they attach to the end of large sticks, and +proceeded to make their way in the woods, so fast that we soon lost sight +of them, they leaving us, five in number, without guides. This displeased +us; but, keeping their tracks constantly in sight, we followed them, +although we were often deceived. We went through dense woods, and over +swamps and marshes, with the water always up to our knees, greatly +encumbered by a pike-man's corselet, with which each one was armed. We were +also tormented in a grievous and unheard-of manner by quantities of +mosquitoes, which were so thick that they scarcely permitted us to draw +breath. After going about half a league under these circumstances, and no +longer knowing where we were, we perceived two savages passing through the +woods, to whom we called and told them to stay with us, and guide us to the +whereabouts of the Iroquois, otherwise we could not go there, and should +get lost in the woods. They stayed to guide us. After proceeding a short +distance, we saw a savage coming in haste to us, to induce us to advance as +rapidly as possible, giving me to understand that the Algonquins and +Montagnais had tried to force the barricade of the Iroquois but had been +repulsed, that some of the best men of the Montagnais had been killed in +the attempt, and several wounded, and that they had retired to wait for us, +in whom was their only hope. We had not gone an eighth of a league with +this savage, who was an Algonquin captain, before we heard the yells and +cries on both sides, as they jeered at each other, and were skirmishing +slightly while awaiting us. As soon as the savages perceived us, they began +to shout, so that one could not have heard it thunder. I gave orders to my +companions to follow me steadily, and not to leave me on any account. I +approached the barricade of the enemy, in order to reconnoitre it. It was +constructed of large trees placed one upon an other, and of a circular +shape, the usual form of their fortifications. All the Montagnais and +Algonquins approached likewise the barricade. Then we commenced firing +numerous musket-shots through the brush-wood, since we could not see them, +as they could us. I was wounded while firing my first shot at the side of +their barricade by an arrow, which pierced the end of my ear and entered my +neck. I seized the arrow, and tore it from my neck. The end of it was armed +with a very sharp stone. One of my companions also was wounded at the same +time in the arm by an arrow, which I tore out for him. Yet my wound did +not prevent me from doing my duty: our savages also, on their part, as well +as the enemy, did their duty, so that you could see the arrows fly on all +sides as thick as hail. The Iroquois were astonished at the noise of our +muskets, and especially that the balls penetrated better than their +arrows. They were so frightened at the effect produced that, seeing +several, of their companions fall wounded and dead, they threw themselves +on the ground whenever they heard a discharge, supposing that the shots +were sure. We scarcely ever missed firing two or three balls at one shot, +resting our muskets most of the time on the side of their barricade. But, +seeing that our ammunition began to fail, I said to all the savages that it +was necessary to break down their barricades and capture them by storm; and +that, in order to accomplish this, they must take their shields, cover +themselves with them, and thus approach so near as to be able to fasten +stout ropes to the posts that supported the barricades, and pull them down +by main strength, in that way making an opening large enough to permit them +to enter the fort. I told them that we would meanwhile, by our +musketry-fire, keep off the enemy, as they endeavored to prevent them from +accomplishing this; also that a number of them should get behind some large +trees, which were near the barricade, in order to throw them down upon the +enemy, and that others should protect these with their shields, in order to +keep the enemy from injuring them. All this they did very promptly. And, as +they were about finishing the work, the barques, distant a league and a +half, hearing the reports of our muskets, knew that we were engaged in +conflict; and a young man from St. Malo, full of courage, Des Prairies by +name, who like the rest had come with his barque to engage in peltry +traffic, said to his companions that it was a great shame to let me fight +in this way with the savages without coming to my assistance; that for his +part he had too high a sense of honor to permit him to do so, and that he +did not wish to expose himself to this reproach; Accordingly, he determined +to come to me in a shallop with some of his companions, together with some +of mine whom he took with him. Immediately upon his arrival, he went +towards the fort of the Iroquois, situated on the bank of the river. Here +he landed, and came to find me. Upon seeing him, I ordered our savages who +were breaking down the fortress to stop, so that the new-comers might have +their share of the sport. I requested Sieur des Prairies and his companions +to fire some salvos of musketry, before our savages should carry by storm +the enemy, as they had decided to do. This they did, each one firing +several shots, in which all did their duty well. After they had fired +enough, I addressed myself to our savages, urging them to finish the +work. Straightway, they approached the barricade, as they had previously +done, while we on the flank were to fire at those who should endeavor to +keep them from breaking it down. They behaved so well and bravely that, +with the help of our muskets, they made an opening, which, however, was +difficult to go through, as there was still left a portion as high as a +man, there being also branches of trees there which had been beaten down, +forming a serious obstacle. But, when I saw that the entrance was quite +practicable, I gave orders not to fire any more, which they obeyed. At the +same instant, some twenty or thirty, both of savages and of our own men, +entered, sword in hand, without finding much resistance. Immediately, all +who were unharmed took to flight. But they did not proceed far; for they +were brought down by those around the barricade, and those who escaped were +drowned in the river. We captured some fifteen prisoners, the rest being +killed by musket-shots, arrows, and the sword. When the fight was over, +there came another shallop, containing some of my companions. This although +behind time, was yet in season for the booty, which, however, was not of +much account. There were only robes of beaver-skin, and dead bodies, +covered with blood, which the savages would not take the trouble to +plunder, laughing at those in the last shallop, who did so; for the others +did not engage in such low business. This, then, is the victory obtained by +God's grace, for gaining which they gave us much praise. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +FORT DES IROQUOIS. + +_A_. The fort of the Iroquois. +_B_. The Iroquois throwing themselves into the river to escape the pursuit + of the Montagnais and Algonquins who followed for the purpose of + killing them. +_D_. Sieur de Champlain and five of his men. +_E_. The savages friendly to us. +_F_. Sieur des Prairies of St. Malo with his comrades. +_G_. Shallop of Sieur des Prairies. +_H_. Great trees cut down for the purpose of destroying the fort of the + Iroquois. + + * * * * * + +The savages scalped the dead, and took the heads as a trophy of victory, +according to their custom. They returned with fifty wounded Montagnais and +Algonquins and three dead, singing and leading their prisoners with them. +They attached to sticks in the prows of their canoes the heads and a dead +body cut into quarters, to eat in revenge, as they said. In this way, they +went to our barques off the River of the Iroquois. + +My companions and I embarked in a shallop, where I had my wound dressed by +the surgeon, De Boyer, of Rouen, who likewise had come here for the purpose +of traffic. The savages spent all this day in dancing and singing. + +The next day, Sieur de Pont Grave arrived with another shallop, loaded with +merchandise. Moreover, there was also a barque containing Captain Pierre, +which he had left behind, it being able to come only with difficulty, as it +was rather heavy and a poor sailer. + +The same day there was some trading in peltry, but the other barques +carried off the better part of the booty. It was doing them a great favor +to search out a strange people for them, that they might afterwards carry +off the profit without any risk or danger. + +That day, I asked the savages for an Iroquois prisoner which they had, and +they gave him to me. What I did for him was not a little; for I saved him +from many tortures which he must have suffered in company with his +fellow-prisoners, whole nails they tore out, also cutting off their +fingers, and burning them in several places. They put to death on the same +day two or three, and, in order to increase their torture, treated them in +the following manner. + +They took the prisoners to the border of the water, and fastened them +perfectly upright to a stake. Then each came with a torch of birch bark, +and burned them, now in this place, now in that. The poor wretches, feeling +the fire, raised so loud a cry that it was something frightful to hear; and +frightful indeed are the cruelties which these barbarians practise towards +each other. After making them suffer greatly in this manner and burning +them with the above-mentioned bark, taking some water, they threw it on +their bodies to increase their suffering. Then they applied the fire anew, +so that the skin fell from their bodies, they continuing to utter loud +cries and exclamations, and dancing until the poor wretches fell dead on +the spot. + +As soon as a body fell to the ground dead, they struck it violent blows +with sticks, when they cut off the arms, legs, and other parts; and he was +not regarded by them as manly, who did not cut off a piece of the flesh, +and give it to the dogs. Such are the courtesies prisoners receive. But +still they endure all the tortures inflicted upon them with such constancy +that the spectator is astonished. + +As to the other prisoners, which remained in possession of the Algonquins +and Montagnais, it was left to their wives and daughters to put them to +death with their own hands; and, in such a matter, they do not show +themselves less inhuman than the men, but even surpass them by far in +cruelty; for they devise by their cunning more cruel punishments, in which +they take pleasure, putting an end to their lives by the most extreme +pains. + +The next day there arrived the Captain Yroquet, also another Ochateguin, +with some eighty men, who regretted greatly not having been present at the +defeat. Among all these tribes there were present nearly two hundred men, +who had never before seen Christians, for whom they conceived a great +admiration. + +We were some three days together on an island off the river of the +Iroquois, when each tribe returned to its own country. + +I had a young lad, who had already spent two winters at Quebec, and who was +desirous of going with the Algonquins to learn their language. Pont Grave +and I concluded that, if he entertained this desire, it would be better to +send him to this place than elsewhere, that he might ascertain the nature +of their country, see the great lake, observe the rivers and tribes there, +and also explore the mines and objects of special interest in the +localities occupied by these tribes, in order that he might inform us upon +his return, of the facts of the case. We asked him if it was his desire to +go, for I did not wish to force him. But he answered the question at once +by consenting to the journey with great pleasure. + +Going to Captain Yroquet, who was strongly attached to me, I asked him if +he would like to take this young boy to his country to spend the winter +with him, and bring him back in the spring. He promised to do so, and treat +him as his own son, saying that he was greatly pleased with the idea. He +communicated the plan to all the Algonquins, who were not greatly pleased +with it, from fear that some accident might happen to the boy, which would +cause us to make war upon them. This hesitation cooled the desire of +Yroquet, who came and told me that all his companions failed to find the +plan a good one. Meanwhile, all the barques had left, excepting that of +Pont Grave, who, having some pressing business on hand, as he told me, went +away too. But I stayed with my barque to see how the matter of the journey +of this boy, which I was desirous should take place, would result. I +accordingly went on shore, and asked to speak with the captains, who came +to me, and we sat down for a conference, together with many other savages +of age and distinction in their troops. Then I asked them why Captain +Yroquet, whom I regarded as my friend, had refused to take my boy with +him. I said that it was not acting like a brother or friend to refuse me +what he had promised, and what could result in nothing but good to them; +taking the boy would be a means of increasing still more our friendship +with them and forming one with their neighbors; that their scruples at +doing so only gave me an unfavorable opinion of them; and that if they +would not take the boy, as Captain Yroquet had promised, I would never have +any friendship with them, for they were not children to break their +promises in this manner. They then told me that they were satisfied with +the arrangement, only they feared that, from change of diet to something +worse than he had been accustomed to, some harm might happen to the boy, +which would provoke my displeasure. This they said was the only cause of +their refusal. + +I replied that the boy would be able to adapt himself without difficulty to +their manner of living and usual food, and that, if through sickness or the +fortunes of war any harm should befall him, this would not interrupt my +friendly feelings towards them, and that we were all exposed to accidents, +which we must submit to with patience. But I said that if they treated him +badly, and if any misfortune happened to him through their fault, I should +in truth be displeased, which, however, I did not expect from them, but +quite the contrary. + +They said to me: "Since then, this is your desire, we will take him, and +treat him like ourselves. But you shall also take a young man in his place, +to go to France. We shall be greatly pleased to hear him report the fine +things he shall have seen." I accepted with pleasure the proposition, and +took the young man. He belonged to the tribe of the Ochateguins, and was +also glad to go with me. This presented an additional motive for treating +my boy still better than they might otherwise have done. I fitted him out +with what he needed, and we made a mutual promise to meet at the end of +June. + +We parted with many promises of friendship. Then they went away towards the +great fall of the River of Canada, while I returned to Quebec. On my way, I +met Pont Grave on Lake St. Peter, who was waiting for me with a large +patache, which he had fallen in with on this lake, and which had not been +expeditious enough to reach the place where the savages were, on account of +its poor sailing qualities. + +We all returned together to Quebec, when Pont Grave went to Tadoussac, to +arrange some matters pertaining to our quarters there. But I stayed at +Quebec to see to the reconstruction of some palisades about our abode, +until Pont Grave should return, when we could confer together as to what +was to be done. + +On the 4th of June, Des Marais arrived at Quebec, greatly to our joy; for +we were afraid that some accident had happened to him at sea. + +Some days after, an Iroquois prisoner, whom I had kept guarded, got away in +consequence of my giving him too much liberty, and made his escape, urged +to do so by fear, notwithstanding the assurances given him by a woman of +his tribe we had at our settlement. + +A few days after, Pont Grave wrote me that he was thinking of passing the +winter at the settlement, being moved to do so by many considerations. I +replied that, if he expected to fare better than I had done in the past, he +would do well. + +He accordingly hastened to provide himself with the supplies necessary for +the settlement. + +After I had finished the palisade about our habitation, and put every thing +in order, Captain Pierre returned in a barque in which he had gone to +Tadoussac to see his friends. I also went there to ascertain what would +result from the second trading, and to attend to some other special +business which I had there. Upon my arrival, I found there Pont Grave, who +stated to me in detail his plans, and the reasons inducing him to spend the +winter. I told him frankly what I thought of the matter; namely, that I +believed he would not derive much profit from it, according to the +appearances that were plainly to be seen. + +He determined accordingly to change his plan, and despatched a barque with +orders for Captain Pierre to return from Quebec on account of some business +he had with him; with the intelligence also that some vessels, which had +arrived from Brouage, brought the news that Monsieur de Saint Luc had come +by post from Paris, expelled those of the religion from Brouage, +re-enforced the garrison with soldiers, and then returned to Court; [366] +that the king had been killed, and two or three days after him the Duke of +Sully, together with two other lords, whose names they did not know. [367] + +All these tidings gave great sorrow to the true French in these quarters. +As for myself, it was hard for me to believe it, on account of the +different reports about the matter, and which had not much appearance of +truth. Still, I was greatly troubled at hearing such mournful news. + +Now, after having stayed three or four days longer at Tadoussac, I saw the +loss which many merchants must suffer, who had taken on board a large +quantity of merchandise, and fitted out a great number of vessels, in +expectation of doing a good business in the fur-trade, which was so poor on +account of the great number of vessels, that many will for a long time +remember the loss which they suffered this year. + +Sieur de Pont Grave and I embarked, each of us in a barque, leaving Captain +Pierre on the vessel. We took Du Parc to Quebec, where we finished what +remained to be done at the settlement. After every thing was in good +condition, we resolved that Du Parc, who had wintered there with Captain +Pierre, should remain again, and that Captain Pierre should return to +France with us, on account of some business that called him there. + +We accordingly left Du Parc in command there, with sixteen men, all of whom +we enjoined to live soberly, and in the fear of God, and in strict +observance of the obedience due to the authority of Du Parc, who was left +as their chief and commander, just as if one of us had remained. This they +all promised to do, and to live in peace with each other. + +As to the gardens, we left them all well supplied with kitchen vegetables +of all sorts, together with fine Indian corn, wheat, rye, and barley, which +had been already planted. There were also vines which I had set out when I +spent the winter there, but these they made no attempt to preserve; for, +upon my return, I found them all in ruins, and I was greatly displeased +that they had given so little attention to the preservation of so fine and +good a plot, from which I had anticipated a favorable result. + +After seeing that every thing was in good order, we set out from Quebec on +the 8th of August for Tadoussac, in order to prepare our vessel, which was +speedily done. + + +ENDNOTES: + +364. This testimony of the Algonquin chief is interesting, and historically + important. We know of no earlier reference to the art of melting and + malleating copper in any of the reports of the navigators to our + northern coast. That the natives possessed this art is placed beyond + question by this passage, as well as by the recent discovery of copper + implements in Wisconsin, bearing the marks of mechanical fusion and + malleation. The specimens of copper in the possession of the natives + on the coast of New England, as referred to by Brereton and Archer, + can well be accounted for without supposing them to be of native + manufacture, though they may have been so. The Basques. Bretons, + English, and Portuguese had been annually on our northern coasts for + fishing and fur-trading for more than a century, and had distributed a + vast quantity of articles for savage ornament and use; and it would, + therefore, be difficult to prove that the copper chains and collars + and other trinkets mentioned by Brereton and Archer were not derived + from this source. But the testimony of the early navigators in the + less frequented region of the St. Lawrence is not open to this + interpretation. When Cartier advanced up the Gulf of Lawrence in 1535, + the savages pointed out the region of the Saguenay, which they + informed him was inhabited, and that from thence came the red copper + which they called _caignetdaze_. + + "Et par les sauuaiges que auions, nous a esse dict que cestoit le + commencement du Saguenay & terre habitable. Et que de la ve noit le + cuyure rouge qu'ilz appellent caignetdaze."--_Brief Recit_, par + Jacques Cartier, 1545. D'Avezac ed., p. 9. _Vide idem_, p. 34. + + When Cartier was at Isle Coudres, say fifty miles below Quebec, on his + return, the Indians from the Saguenay came on board his ship, and made + certain presents to their chief, Donnacona, whom Cartier had captured, + and was taking home with him to France. Among these gifts, they gave + him a great knife of red copper, which came from the Saguenay. The + words of Cartier are as follows:-- + + "Donnerent audict Donnaconan trois pacquetz de peaulx de byeures & + loups marins avec vng grand cousteau de cuyure rouge, qui vient du + Saguenay & autres choses."--_Idem_, p. 44. + + This voyage of Cartier, made in 1535, was the earliest visit by any + navigator on record to this region. It was eighty years before the + Recollects or any other missionaries had approached the Gulf of + St. Lawrence. There was, therefore, no intercourse previous to this + that would be likely to furnish the natives with European utensils of + any kind, particularly knives of _red copper_. It is impossible to + suppose that this knife, seen by Cartier, and declared by the natives + to have come from the Saguenay, a term then covering an indefinite + region stretching we know not how far to the north and west, could be + otherwise than of Indian manufacture. In the text, Champlain + distinctly states on the testimony of an Algonquin chief that it was + the custom of the Indians to melt copper for the purpose of forming it + into sheets, and it is obvious that it would require scarcely greater + ingenuity to fabricate moulds in which to cast the various implements + which they needed in their simple arts. Some of these implements, with + indubitable marks of having been cast in moulds, have been recently + discovered, with a multitude of others, which may or may not have + passed through the same process. The testimony of Champlain in the + text, and the examples of moulded copper found in the lake region, + render the evidence, in our judgment, entirely conclusive that the art + of working copper both by fusion and malleation existed among the + Indians of America at the time of its first occupation by the French. + + During the period of five years, beginning in 1871, an enthusiastic + antiquary, Mr. F. S. Perkins, of Wisconsin, collected, within the + borders of his own State, a hundred and forty-two copper implements, + of a great variety of forms, and designed for numerous uses, as axes, + hatchets, spear-heads, arrowheads, knives, gouges, chisels, adzes, + augers, gads, drills, and other articles of anomalous forms. These are + now deposited in the archives of the Historical Society of + Wisconsin. Other collections are gradually forming. The process is of + necessity slow, as they are not often found in groups, but singly, + here and there, as they are turned up by the plough or spade of other + implements of husbandry. The statement of Champlain in the text, and + the testimony of Carrier three-quarters of a century earlier, to which + we have referred, give a new historical significance to these recent + discoveries, and both together throw a fresh light upon the + prehistoric period. + +365. This was the Island St. Ignace, which lies opposite the mouth of the + river Iroquois or Richelieu. Champlain's description is not + sufficiently definite to enable us to identify the exact location of + this conflict with the savages. It is, however, evident, from several + intimations found in the text, that it was about a league from the + mouth of the Richelieu, and was probably on the bank of that river. + +366. For some account of Saint Luc, see Memoir, Vol. I. By those of the + religion, _ceux de la Religion_, are meant the Huguenots, or + Protestants. + +367. The assassination of Henry IV. occurred on the 14th of May, 1610; but + the rumor of the death of the Duke of Sully was erroneous. Maximelien + de Bethune, the Duke of Sully, died on the 22d of December, 1641, at + the age of eighty-two years. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +RETURN TO FRANCE.--MEETING A WHALE;--THE MODE OF CAPTURING THEM. + + +On the 13th of the month, we set out from Tadoussac, arriving at Ile Percee +the next day, where we found a large number of vessels engaged in the +fishery, dry and green. + +On the 18th of the month, we departed from Ile Percee, passing in latitude +42 deg., without sighting the Grand Bank, where the green fishery is carried +on, as it is too narrow at this altitude. + +When we were about half way across, we encountered a whale, which was +asleep. The vessel, passing over him, awakening him betimes, made a great +hole in him near the tail, without damaging our vessel; but he threw out an +abundance of blood. + +It has seemed to me not out of place to give here a brief description of +the mode of catching whales, which many have not witnessed, and suppose +that they are shot, owing to the false assertions about the matter made to +them in their ignorance by impostors, and on account of which such ideas +have often been obstinately maintained in my presence. + +Those, then, most skilful in this fishery are the Basques, who, for the +purpose of engaging in it, take their vessels to a place of security, and +near where they think whales are plenty. Then they equip several shallops +manned by competent men and provided with hawsers, small ropes made of the +best hemp to be found, at least a hundred and fifty fathoms long. They are +also provided with many halberds of the length of a short pike, whose iron +is six inches broad; others are from a foot and a half to two feet long, +and very sharp. Each shallop has a harpooner, the most agile and adroit man +they have, whose pay is next highest to that of the masters, his position +being the most dangerous one. This shallop being outside of the port, the +men look in all quarters for a whale, tacking about in all directions. But, +if they see nothing, they return to the shore, and ascend the highest point +they can find, and from which they can get the most extensive view. Here +they station a man on the look-out. They are aided in catching sight of a +whale both by his size and the water he spouts through his blow-holes, +which is more than a puncheon at a time, and two lances high. From the +amount of this water, they estimate how much oil he will yield. From some +they get as many as one hundred and twenty puncheons, from others less. +Having caught sight of this monstrous fish, they hasten to embark in their +shallops, and by rowing or sailing they advance until they are upon him. + +Seeing him under water, the harpooner goes at once to the prow of the +shallop with his harpoon, an iron two feet long and half a foot wide at the +lower part, and attached to a stick as long as a small pike, in the middle +of which is a hole to which the hawser is made fast. The harpooner, +watching his time, throws his harpoon at the whale, which enters him well +forward. As soon as he finds himself wounded, the whale goes down. And if +by chance turning about, as he does sometimes, his tail strikes the +shallop, it breaks it like glass. This is the only risk they run of being +killed in harpooning. As soon as they have thrown the harpoon into him, +they let the hawser run until the whale reaches the bottom. But sometimes +he does not go straight to the bottom, when he drags the shallop eight or +nine leagues or more, going as swiftly as a horse. Very often they are +obliged to cut their hawser, for fear that the whale will take them +underwater. But, when he goes straight to the bottom, he rests there +awhile, and then returns quietly to the surface, the men taking aboard +again the hawser as he rises. When he comes to the top, two or three +shallops are stationed around with halberds, with which they give him +several blows. Finding himself struck, the whale goes down again, leaving a +trail of blood, and grows weak to such an extent that he has no longer any +strength nor energy, and returning to the surface is finally killed. When +dead, he does not go down again; fastening stout ropes to him, they drag +him ashore to their head-quarters, the place where they try out the fat of +the whale, to obtain his oil. This is the way whales are taken, and not by +cannon-shots, which many suppose, as I have stated above. + +To resume the thread of my narrative: after wounding the whale, as +mentioned, we captured a great many porpoises, which our mate harpooned to +our pleasure and amusement. We also caught a great many fish having a +large ear, with a hook and line, attaching to the hook a little fish +resembling a herring, and letting it trail behind the vessel. The large +ear, thinking it in fact a living fish, comes up to swallow it, thus +finding himself at once caught by the hook, which is concealed in the body +of the little fish. This fish is very good, and has certain tufts which are +very handsome, and resemble those worn on plumes. + +On the 22d of September, we arrived on soundings. Here we saw twenty +vessels some four leagues to the west of us, which, as they appeared from +our vessel, we judged to be Flemish. + +On the 25th of the month, we sighted the Isle de Greneze, [368] after +experiencing a strong blow, which lasted until noon. + +On the 27th of the month, we arrived at Honfleur. + +ENDNOTES: + +368. Guernsey, which lay directly before them as they advanced up the + English Channel, and was the first large island that met the eye on + their way to Honfleur. + + + + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, VOYAGES OF SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN, VOL. 2 *** + +This file should be named 7vcv210.txt or 7vcv210.zip +Corrected EDITIONS of our eBooks get a new NUMBER, 7vcv211.txt +VERSIONS based on separate sources get new LETTER, 7vcv210a.txt + +Project Gutenberg eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the US +unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we usually do not +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + +We are now trying to release all our eBooks one year in advance +of the official release dates, leaving time for better editing. +Please be encouraged to tell us about any error or corrections, +even years after the official publication date. + +Please note neither this listing nor its contents are final til +midnight of the last day of the month of any such announcement. +The official release date of all Project Gutenberg eBooks is at +Midnight, Central Time, of the last day of the stated month. A +preliminary version may often be posted for suggestion, comment +and editing by those who wish to do so. + +Most people start at our Web sites at: +http://gutenberg.net or +http://promo.net/pg + +These Web sites include award-winning information about Project +Gutenberg, including how to donate, how to help produce our new +eBooks, and how to subscribe to our email newsletter (free!). + + +Those of you who want to download any eBook before announcement +can get to them as follows, and just download by date. This is +also a good way to get them instantly upon announcement, as the +indexes our cataloguers produce obviously take a while after an +announcement goes out in the Project Gutenberg Newsletter. + +http://www.ibiblio.org/gutenberg/etext04 or +ftp://ftp.ibiblio.org/pub/docs/books/gutenberg/etext04 + +Or /etext03, 02, 01, 00, 99, 98, 97, 96, 95, 94, 93, 92, 92, 91 or 90 + +Just search by the first five letters of the filename you want, +as it appears in our Newsletters. + + +Information about Project Gutenberg (one page) + +We produce about two million dollars for each hour we work. The +time it takes us, a rather conservative estimate, is fifty hours +to get any eBook selected, entered, proofread, edited, copyright +searched and analyzed, the copyright letters written, etc. Our +projected audience is one hundred million readers. If the value +per text is nominally estimated at one dollar then we produce $2 +million dollars per hour in 2002 as we release over 100 new text +files per month: 1240 more eBooks in 2001 for a total of 4000+ +We are already on our way to trying for 2000 more eBooks in 2002 +If they reach just 1-2% of the world's population then the total +will reach over half a trillion eBooks given away by year's end. + +The Goal of Project Gutenberg is to Give Away 1 Trillion eBooks! +This is ten thousand titles each to one hundred million readers, +which is only about 4% of the present number of computer users. + +Here is the briefest record of our progress (* means estimated): + +eBooks Year Month + + 1 1971 July + 10 1991 January + 100 1994 January + 1000 1997 August + 1500 1998 October + 2000 1999 December + 2500 2000 December + 3000 2001 November + 4000 2001 October/November + 6000 2002 December* + 9000 2003 November* +10000 2004 January* + + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation has been created +to secure a future for Project Gutenberg into the next millennium. + +We need your donations more than ever! + +As of February, 2002, contributions are being solicited from people +and organizations in: Alabama, Alaska, Arkansas, Connecticut, +Delaware, District of Columbia, Florida, Georgia, Hawaii, Illinois, +Indiana, Iowa, Kansas, Kentucky, Louisiana, Maine, Massachusetts, +Michigan, Mississippi, Missouri, Montana, Nebraska, Nevada, New +Hampshire, New Jersey, New Mexico, New York, North Carolina, Ohio, +Oklahoma, Oregon, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, South Carolina, South +Dakota, Tennessee, Texas, Utah, Vermont, Virginia, Washington, West +Virginia, Wisconsin, and Wyoming. + +We have filed in all 50 states now, but these are the only ones +that have responded. + +As the requirements for other states are met, additions to this list +will be made and fund raising will begin in the additional states. +Please feel free to ask to check the status of your state. + +In answer to various questions we have received on this: + +We are constantly working on finishing the paperwork to legally +request donations in all 50 states. If your state is not listed and +you would like to know if we have added it since the list you have, +just ask. + +While we cannot solicit donations from people in states where we are +not yet registered, we know of no prohibition against accepting +donations from donors in these states who approach us with an offer to +donate. + +International donations are accepted, but we don't know ANYTHING about +how to make them tax-deductible, or even if they CAN be made +deductible, and don't have the staff to handle it even if there are +ways. + +Donations by check or money order may be sent to: + +Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation +PMB 113 +1739 University Ave. +Oxford, MS 38655-4109 + +Contact us if you want to arrange for a wire transfer or payment +method other than by check or money order. + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation has been approved by +the US Internal Revenue Service as a 501(c)(3) organization with EIN +[Employee Identification Number] 64-622154. Donations are +tax-deductible to the maximum extent permitted by law. As fund-raising +requirements for other states are met, additions to this list will be +made and fund-raising will begin in the additional states. + +We need your donations more than ever! + +You can get up to date donation information online at: + +http://www.gutenberg.net/donation.html + + +*** + +If you can't reach Project Gutenberg, +you can always email directly to: + +Michael S. Hart <hart@pobox.com> + +Prof. Hart will answer or forward your message. + +We would prefer to send you information by email. + + +**The Legal Small Print** + + +(Three Pages) + +***START**THE SMALL PRINT!**FOR PUBLIC DOMAIN EBOOKS**START*** +Why is this "Small Print!" statement here? You know: lawyers. +They tell us you might sue us if there is something wrong with +your copy of this eBook, even if you got it for free from +someone other than us, and even if what's wrong is not our +fault. So, among other things, this "Small Print!" statement +disclaims most of our liability to you. It also tells you how +you may distribute copies of this eBook if you want to. + +*BEFORE!* YOU USE OR READ THIS EBOOK +By using or reading any part of this PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm +eBook, you indicate that you understand, agree to and accept +this "Small Print!" statement. If you do not, you can receive +a refund of the money (if any) you paid for this eBook by +sending a request within 30 days of receiving it to the person +you got it from. If you received this eBook on a physical +medium (such as a disk), you must return it with your request. + +ABOUT PROJECT GUTENBERG-TM EBOOKS +This PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm eBook, like most PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm eBooks, +is a "public domain" work distributed by Professor Michael S. Hart +through the Project Gutenberg Association (the "Project"). +Among other things, this means that no one owns a United States copyright +on or for this work, so the Project (and you!) can copy and +distribute it in the United States without permission and +without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, set forth +below, apply if you wish to copy and distribute this eBook +under the "PROJECT GUTENBERG" trademark. + +Please do not use the "PROJECT GUTENBERG" trademark to market +any commercial products without permission. + +To create these eBooks, the Project expends considerable +efforts to identify, transcribe and proofread public domain +works. Despite these efforts, the Project's eBooks and any +medium they may be on may contain "Defects". Among other +things, Defects may take the form of incomplete, inaccurate or +corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other +intellectual property infringement, a defective or damaged +disk or other eBook medium, a computer virus, or computer +codes that damage or cannot be read by your equipment. + +LIMITED WARRANTY; DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES +But for the "Right of Replacement or Refund" described below, +[1] Michael Hart and the Foundation (and any other party you may +receive this eBook from as a PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm eBook) disclaims +all liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including +legal fees, and [2] YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE OR +UNDER STRICT LIABILITY, OR FOR BREACH OF WARRANTY OR CONTRACT, +INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE +OR INCIDENTAL DAMAGES, EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE +POSSIBILITY OF SUCH DAMAGES. + +If you discover a Defect in this eBook within 90 days of +receiving it, you can receive a refund of the money (if any) +you paid for it by sending an explanatory note within that +time to the person you received it from. If you received it +on a physical medium, you must return it with your note, and +such person may choose to alternatively give you a replacement +copy. If you received it electronically, such person may +choose to alternatively give you a second opportunity to +receive it electronically. + +THIS EBOOK IS OTHERWISE PROVIDED TO YOU "AS-IS". NO OTHER +WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, ARE MADE TO YOU AS +TO THE EBOOK OR ANY MEDIUM IT MAY BE ON, INCLUDING BUT NOT +LIMITED TO WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A +PARTICULAR PURPOSE. + +Some states do not allow disclaimers of implied warranties or +the exclusion or limitation of consequential damages, so the +above disclaimers and exclusions may not apply to you, and you +may have other legal rights. + +INDEMNITY +You will indemnify and hold Michael Hart, the Foundation, +and its trustees and agents, and any volunteers associated +with the production and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm +texts harmless, from all liability, cost and expense, including +legal fees, that arise directly or indirectly from any of the +following that you do or cause: [1] distribution of this eBook, +[2] alteration, modification, or addition to the eBook, +or [3] any Defect. + +DISTRIBUTION UNDER "PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm" +You may distribute copies of this eBook electronically, or by +disk, book or any other medium if you either delete this +"Small Print!" and all other references to Project Gutenberg, +or: + +[1] Only give exact copies of it. Among other things, this + requires that you do not remove, alter or modify the + eBook or this "small print!" statement. You may however, + if you wish, distribute this eBook in machine readable + binary, compressed, mark-up, or proprietary form, + including any form resulting from conversion by word + processing or hypertext software, but only so long as + *EITHER*: + + [*] The eBook, when displayed, is clearly readable, and + does *not* contain characters other than those + intended by the author of the work, although tilde + (~), asterisk (*) and underline (_) characters may + be used to convey punctuation intended by the + author, and additional characters may be used to + indicate hypertext links; OR + + [*] The eBook may be readily converted by the reader at + no expense into plain ASCII, EBCDIC or equivalent + form by the program that displays the eBook (as is + the case, for instance, with most word processors); + OR + + [*] You provide, or agree to also provide on request at + no additional cost, fee or expense, a copy of the + eBook in its original plain ASCII form (or in EBCDIC + or other equivalent proprietary form). + +[2] Honor the eBook refund and replacement provisions of this + "Small Print!" statement. + +[3] Pay a trademark license fee to the Foundation of 20% of the + gross profits you derive calculated using the method you + already use to calculate your applicable taxes. If you + don't derive profits, no royalty is due. Royalties are + payable to "Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation" + the 60 days following each date you prepare (or were + legally required to prepare) your annual (or equivalent + periodic) tax return. Please contact us beforehand to + let us know your plans and to work out the details. + +WHAT IF YOU *WANT* TO SEND MONEY EVEN IF YOU DON'T HAVE TO? +Project Gutenberg is dedicated to increasing the number of +public domain and licensed works that can be freely distributed +in machine readable form. + +The Project gratefully accepts contributions of money, time, +public domain materials, or royalty free copyright licenses. +Money should be paid to the: +"Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." + +If you are interested in contributing scanning equipment or +software or other items, please contact Michael Hart at: +hart@pobox.com + +[Portions of this eBook's header and trailer may be reprinted only +when distributed free of all fees. Copyright (C) 2001, 2002 by +Michael S. Hart. Project Gutenberg is a TradeMark and may not be +used in any sales of Project Gutenberg eBooks or other materials be +they hardware or software or any other related product without +express permission.] + +*END THE SMALL PRINT! FOR PUBLIC DOMAIN EBOOKS*Ver.02/11/02*END* + diff --git a/old/7vcv210.zip b/old/7vcv210.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..efe39c0 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/7vcv210.zip diff --git a/old/8vcv210.txt b/old/8vcv210.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..b3c7af8 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/8vcv210.txt @@ -0,0 +1,9488 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Voyages of Samuel de Champlain, Vol. 2 +by Samuel de Champlain + +Copyright laws are changing all over the world. Be sure to check the +copyright laws for your country before downloading or redistributing +this or any other Project Gutenberg eBook. + +This header should be the first thing seen when viewing this Project +Gutenberg file. Please do not remove it. Do not change or edit the +header without written permission. + +Please read the "legal small print," and other information about the +eBook and Project Gutenberg at the bottom of this file. Included is +important information about your specific rights and restrictions in +how the file may be used. You can also find out about how to make a +donation to Project Gutenberg, and how to get involved. + + +**Welcome To The World of Free Plain Vanilla Electronic Texts** + +**eBooks Readable By Both Humans and By Computers, Since 1971** + +*****These eBooks Were Prepared By Thousands of Volunteers!***** + + +Title: Voyages of Samuel de Champlain, Vol. 2 + +Author: Samuel de Champlain + +Release Date: October, 2004 [EBook #6749] +[Yes, we are more than one year ahead of schedule] +[This file was first posted on January 21, 2003] + +Edition: 10 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, VOYAGES OF SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN, VOL. 2 *** + + + + +Produced by Karl Hagen, Juliet Sutherland, Charles Franks, and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team. Images provided coutesy of www.canadiana.org. + + + +Transcriber's Notes: +The original text of this edition used tall-s. These have been replaced +with ordinary 's'. The original footnotes have been converted to endnotes +and placed at the end of each chapter. The original numbering has been +retained. The number 176-1/2 and presence of two notes numbered [283] are +both original. + +THE +PUBLICATIONS OF THE PRINCE SOCIETY +Established May 25th, 1858. + +CHAMPLAIN'S VOYAGES. + + +VOYAGES +OF +SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN. + +TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH +BY CHARLES POMEROY OTIS, PH.D. + +WITH HISTORICAL ILLUSTRATIONS, +AND A +MEMOIR + +BY THE REV. EDMUND F. SLAFTER, A.M. + +VOL. II. +1604-1610. + +HELIOTYPE COPIES OF TWENTY LOCAL MAPS. + +Editor: +THE REV. EDMUND F. SLAFTER, A.M. + + + + +PREFACE. + +Champlain's edition of 1613 contains, in connection with the preliminary +matter, two pieces of poetry, one signed L'ANGE, Paris, the other MOTIN. +They were contributed doubtless by some friend, intended to be +complimentary to the author, to embellish the volume and to give it a +favorable introduction to the reader. This was in conformity to a +prevailing custom of that period. They contain no intrinsic historical +interest or value whatever, and, if introduced, would not serve their +original purpose, but would rather be an incumbrance, and they have +consequently been omitted in the present work. + +Champlain also included a summary of chapters, identical with the headings +of chapters in this translation, evidently intended to take the place of an +index, which he did not supply. To repeat these headings would be +superfluous, particularly as this work is furnished with a copious index. + +The edition of 1613 was divided into two books. This division has been +omitted here, both as superfluous and confusing. + +The maps referred to on Champlain's title-page may be found in Vol. III. of +this work. In France, the needle deflects to the east; and the dial-plate, +as figured on the larger map, that of 1612, is constructed accordingly. On +it the line marked _nornordest_ represents the true north, while the index +is carried round to the left, and points out the variation of the needle to +the west. The map is oriented by the needle without reference to its +variation, but the true meridian is laid down by a strong line on which the +degrees of latitude are numbered. From this the points of the compass +between any two places may be readily obtained. + +A Note, relating to Hudson's discoveries in 1612, as delineated on +Champlain's small map, introduced by him in the prefatory matter, +apparently after the text had been struck off, will appear in connection +with the map itself, where it more properly belongs. + +E. F. S. + +BOSTON, 11 BEACON STREET, +October 21, 1878. + + + + +TABLE OF CONTENTS + +PREFACE +CHAMPLAIN'S DEDICATION OF HIS WORK TO THE KING +ADDRESS TO THE QUEEN REGENT +EXTRACT FROM THE LICENSE +VOYAGE 1604 TO 1608 +FIRST VOYAGE AS LIEUTENANT, 1608 TO 1610 +SECOND VOYAGE AS LIEUTENANT, 1610 +LOCAL MAPS: + Port de la Hève + Port du Roissignol + Port du Mouton + Port Royal + Port des Mines + Rivière St. Jehan + Isle de Sainte Croix + Habitation de L'Isle Ste. Croix + Quinibequy + Chouacoit R. + Port St. Louis + Malle Barre + L'Abitation du Port Royal + Le Beau Port + Port Fortuné + The Attack at Port Fortuné + Port de Tadoucac + Quebec + Abitation de Quebecq + Defeat of the Iroquois at Lake Champlain +INDEX + + + + +THE VOYAGES +OF SIEUR DE CHAMPLAIN, + +Of Saintonge, Captain in ordinary to the +King in the Marine. + +OR, + +_A MOST FAITHFUL JOURNAL OF OBSERVATIONS +made in the exploration of New France, describing not only the countries, +coasts, rivers, ports, and harbors, with their latitudes and the various +deflections of the Magnetic Needle, but likewise the religious belief of +the inhabitants, their superstitions, mode of life and warfare; furnished +with numerous illustrations_. + +Together with two geographical maps: the first for the purposes of +navigation, adapted to the compass as used by mariners, which deflects to +the north-east; the other in its true meridian, with longitudes and +latitudes, to which is added the Voyage to the Strait north of Labrador, +from the 53d to the 63d degree of latitude, discovered in 1612 by the +English when they were searching for a northerly course to China. + +PARIS. + +JEAN BERJON, + +Rue St. Jean de Beauvais, at the Flying Horse, +and at his store in the Palace, +at the gallery of the Prisoners. + +MDCXIII. + +_WITH AUTHORITY OF THE KING_. + + + + +TO THE KING. + +_Sire, + +Your Majesty has doubtless full knowledge of the discoveries made in your +service in New France, called Canada, through the descriptions, given by +certain Captains and Pilots, of the voyages and discoveries made there +during the past eighty years. These, however, present nothing so honorable +to your Kingdom, or so profitable to the service of your Majesty and your +subjects, as will, I doubt not, the maps of the coasts, harbors, rivers, +and the situation of the places described in this little treatise, which I +make bold to address to your Majesty, and which is entitled a Journal of +Voyages and Discoveries, which I have made in connection with Sieur de +Monts, your Lieutenant in New France. This I do, feeling myself urged by a +just sense of the honor I have received during the last ten years in +commissions, not only, Sire, from your Majesty, but also from the late +king, Henry the Great, of happy memory, who commissioned me to make the +most exact researches and explorations in my power. This I have done, and +added, moreover, the maps contained in this little book, where I have set +forth in particular the dangers to which one would be liable. The subjects +of your Majesty, whom you may be pleased hereafter to employ for the +preservation of what has been discovered, will be able to avoid those +dangers through the knowledge afforded by the maps contained in this +treatise, which will serve as an example in your kingdom for increasing the +glory of your Majesty, the welfare of your subjects, and for the honor of +the very humble service, for which, to the happy prolongation of your days, +is indebted, + +SIRE, + +Your most humble, most obedient, +and most faithful servant and subject, + +CHAMPLAIN_. + + + + +TO THE QUEEN REGENT, + +MOTHER OF THE KING. + +MADAME, + +Of all the most useful and excellent arts, that of navigation has always +seemed to me to occupy the first place. For the more hazardous it is, and +the more numerous the perils and losses by which it is attended, so much +the more is it esteemed and exalted above all others, being wholly unsuited +to the timid and irresolute. By this art we obtain knowledge of different +countries, regions, and realms. By it we attract and bring to our own land +all kinds of riches, by it the idolatry of paganism is overthrown and +Christianity proclaimed throughout all the regions of the earth. This is +the art which from my early age has won my love, and induced me to expose +myself almost all my life to the impetuous waves of the ocean, and led me +to explore the coasts of a part of America, especially of New France, where +I have always desired to see the Lily flourish, and also the only religion, +catholic, apostolic, and Roman. This I trust now to accomplish with the +help of God, assisted by the favor of your Majesty, whom I most humbly +entreat to continue to sustain us, in order that all may succeed to the +honor of God, the welfare of France, and the splendor of your reign, for +the grandeur and prosperity of which I will pray God to attend you always +with a thousand blessings, and will remain, + +MADAME, + Your most humble, most obedient, + and most faithful servant and subject, + CHAMPLAIN. + + + + +EXTRACT FROM THE LICENSE. + +By letters patent of the KING, given at Paris the ninth of January, 1613, +and in the third year of our reign, by the King in his Council, PERREAU, +and sealed with the simple yellow seal, it is permitted to JEAN BERJON, +printer and bookseller in this city of Paris, to print, or have printed by +whomsoever it may seem good to him, a book entitled _The Voyages of Samuel +de Champlain of Saintonge, Captain in ordinary for the King in the Marine, +&c._, for the time and limit of six entire consecutive years, from the day +when this book shall have been printed up to the said time of six years. By +the same letters, in like manner all printers, merchant booksellers, and +any others whatever, are forbidden to print or have printed, to sell or +distribute said book during the aforesaid time, without the special consent +of said BERJON, or of him to whom he shall give permission, on pain of +confiscation of so many of said books as shall be found, and a +discretionary fine, as is more fully set forth in the aforesaid letters. + + + + +VOYAGES +OF +SIEUR DE CHAMPLAIN. + + +VOYAGE IN THE YEAR 1604. + +CHAPTER I. + +THE BENEFITS OF COMMERCE HAVE INDUCED SEVERAL PRINCES TO SEEK AN EASIER +ROUTE FOR TRAFFIC WITH THE PEOPLE OF THE EAST.--SEVERAL UNSUCCESSFUL +VOYAGES.--DETERMINATION OF THE FRENCH FOR THIS PURPOSE.--UNDERTAKING OF +SIEUR DE MONTS: HIS COMMISSION AND ITS REVOCATION.--NEW COMMISSION TO SIEUR +DE MONTS TO ENABLE HIM TO CONTINUE HIS UNDERTAKING. + +The inclinations of men differ according to their varied dispositions; and +each one in his calling has his particular end in view. Some aim at gain, +some at glory, some at the public weal. The greater number are engaged in +trade, and especially that which is transacted on the sea. Hence arise the +principal support of the people, the opulence and honor of states. This is +what raised ancient Rome to the sovereignty and mastery over the entire +world, and the Venetians to a grandeur equal to that of powerful kings. It +has in all times caused maritime towns to abound in riches, among which +Alexandria and Tyre are distinguished, and numerous others, which fill up +the regions of the interior with the objects of beauty and rarity obtained +from foreign nations. For this reason, many princes have striven to find a +northerly route to China, in order to facilitate commerce with the +Orientals, in the belief that this route would be shorter and less +dangerous. + +In the year 1496, the king of England commissioned John Cabot and his son +Sebastian to engage in this search. [1] About the same time, Don Emanuel, +king of Portugal, despatched on the same errand Gaspar Cortereal, who +returned without attaining his object. Resuming his journeys the year +after, he died in the undertaking; as did also his brother Michel, who was +prosecuting it perseveringly. [2] In the years 1534 and 1535, Jacques +Cartier received a like commission from King Francis I., but was arrested +in his course. [3] Six years after, Sieur de Roberval, having renewed it, +sent Jean Alfonse of Saintonge farther northward along the coast of +Labrador; [4] but he returned as wise as the others. In the years 1576, +1577, and 1578, Sir Martin Frobisher, an Englishman, made three voyages +along the northern coasts. Seven years later, Humphrey Gilbert, also an +Englishman, set out with five ships, but suffered shipwreck on Sable +Island, where three of his vessels were lost. In the same and two following +years, John Davis, an Englishman, made three voyages for the same object; +penetrating to the 72d degree, as far as a strait which is called at the +present day by his name. After him, Captain Georges made also a voyage in +1590, but in consequence of the ice was compelled to return without having +made any discovery. [5] The Hollanders, on their part, had no more precise +knowledge in the direction of Nova Zembla. + +So many voyages and discoveries without result, and attended with so much +hardship and expense, have caused us French in late years to attempt a +permanent settlement in those lands which we call New France, [6] in the +hope of thus realizing more easily this object; since the voyage in search +of the desired passage commences on the other side of the ocean, and is +made along the coast of this region. [7] These considerations had induced +the Marquis de la Roche, in 1598, to take a commission from the king for +making a settlement in the above region. With this object, he landed men +and supplies on Sable Island; [8] but, as the conditions which had been +accorded to him by his Majesty were not fulfilled, he was obliged to +abandon his undertaking, and leave his men there. A year after, Captain +Chauvin accepted another commission to transport Settlers to the same +region; [9] but, as this was shortly after revoked, he prosecuted the +matter no farther. + +After the above, [10] notwithstanding all these accidents and +disappointments, Sieur de Monts desired to attempt what had been given up +in despair, and requested a commission for this purpose of his Majesty, +being satisfied that the previous enterprises had failed because the +undertakers of them had not received assistance, who had not succeeded, in +one nor even two years' time, in making the acquaintance of the regions and +people there, nor in finding harbors adapted for a settlement. He proposed +to his Majesty a means for covering these expenses, without drawing any +thing from the royal revenues; viz., by granting to him the monopoly of the +fur-trade in this land. This having been granted to him, he made great and +excessive outlays, and carried out with him a large number of men of +various vocations. Upon his arrival, he caused the necessary number of +habitations for his followers to be constructed. This expenditure he +continued for three consecutive years, after which, in consequence of the +jealousy and annoyance of certain Basque merchants, together with some from +Brittany, the monopoly which had been granted to him was revoked by the +Council to the great injury and loss of Sieur de Monts, who, in consequence +of this revocation, was compelled to abandon his entire undertaking, +sacrificing his labors and the outfit for his settlement. + +But since a report had been made to the king on the fertility of the soil +by him, and by me on the feasibility of discovering the passage to China, +[11] without the inconveniences of the ice of the north or the heats of the +torrid zone, through which our sailors pass twice in going and twice in +returning, with inconceivable hardships and risks, his Majesty directed +Sieur de Monts to make a new outfit, and send men to continue what he had +commenced. This he did. And, in view of the uncertainty of his commission, +[12] he chose a new spot for his settlement, in order to deprive jealous +persons of any such distrust as they had previously conceived. He was also +influenced by the hope of greater advantages in case of settling in the +interior, where the people are civilized, and where it is easier to plant +the Christian faith and establish such order as is necessary for the +protection of a country, than along the sea-shore, where the savages +generally dwell. From this course, he believed the king would derive an +inestimable profit; for it is easy to suppose that Europeans will seek out +this advantage rather than those of a jealous and intractable disposition +to be found on the shores, and the barbarous tribes. [13] + +ENDNOTES: + +1. The first commission was granted by Henry VII. of England to John Cabot + and his three sons, Lewis, Sebastian, and Sancius, March 5, 1496.-- + _Rymer's Foedera_, Vol. XII. p. 595. The first voyage, however, was made + in 1497. The second commission was granted to John Cabot alone, in + 1498.--_Vide Hakluyt_, 1600, London, ed. 1810, Vol. III. pp. 25-31. + +2. Cortereal made two voyages under the patronage of Emmanuel, King of + Portugal, the first in 1500, the second in 1501. In the latter year, he + sailed with two ships from Lisbon, and explored six hundred miles or + more on our northern coast. The vessel in which he sailed was lost; and + he perished, together with fifty natives whom he had captured. The other + vessel returned, and reported the incidents of the expedition. The next + year, Michael Cortereal, the brother of Gaspar, obtained a commission, + and went in search of his brother; but he did not return, and no tidings + were ever heard of him. + +3. Jacques Cartier made three voyages in 1534, 1535, and 1540, + respectively, in which he effected very important discoveries; and + Charlevoix justly remarks that Cartier's Memoirs long served as a guide + to those who after him navigated the gulf and river of St. Lawrence. For + Cartier's commission, see _Hazard's State Papers_, Vol. I. p. 19. + +4. Roberval's voyage was made in 1542, and is reported by Jean Alfonse.-- + _Vide Hakluyt_, 1600, London, ed. 1810, Vol. III. p. 291. On an old map, + drawn about the middle of the sixteenth century, Roberval is represented + in a full-length portrait, clad in mail, with sword and spear, at the + head of a band of armed soldiers, penetrating into the wilds of Canada, + near the head-waters of the Saguenay. The name, "Monsr. de Roberual," is + inserted near his feet,--_Vide Monuments de la Géographie_, XIX., par + M. Jomard, Paris. + +5. For the narrative of the voyages of Frobisher, Gilbert, and Davis, _vide + Hakluyt_, Vol. III. Of the fleet of five vessels commanded by Sir + Humphrey Gilbert, in 1583, the Ralegh put back to England, on account of + sickness on board; the Golden Hinde returned safely to port; the + _Swallow_ was left at Newfoundland, to bring home the sick; the + _Delight_ was lost near Sable Island; and the _Squirrel_ went down on + its way to England, some days after leaving Sable Island. Thus two only + were lost, while a third was left. + + There must have been some error in regard to the voyage of Captain + Georges. There is no printed account of a voyage at that time by any one + of this name. There are two theories on which this statement may be + explained. There may have been a voyage by a Captain Georges, which, for + some unknown reason, was never reported; or, what is more likely, + Champlain may refer to the voyage of Captain George Weymouth, undertaken + in 1602 for the East Ind. Company, which was defeated by the icebergs + which he encountered, and the mutiny of his men. It was not uncommon to + omit part of a name at that period. Of Pont Gravé, the last name is + frequently omitted by Champlain and by Lescarbot. The report of + Weymouth's voyage was not printed till after Champlain wrote; and he + might easily have mistaken the date. + +6. The name of New France, _Novus Francisca_, appears on a map in Ptolemy + published at Basle in 1530. + +7. The controlling object of the numerous voyages to the north-east coast + of America had hitherto been to discover a shorter course to India. In + this respect, as Champlain states above, they had all proved + failures. He here intimates that the settlements of the French on this + coast were intended to facilitate this design. It is obvious that a + colonial establishment would offer great advantages as a base in + prosecuting searches for this desired passage to Cathay. + +8. For some account of this disastrous expedition, see _Memoir_, Vol. I. + +9. _Vide Memoir_, Vol. I. + +10. It will be observed that Champlain does not mention the expedition sent + out by Commander de Chastes, probably because its object was + exploration, and not actual settlement.--_Vide_ an account of De + Chastes in the _Memoir_, Vol. I. + +11. In Champlain's report of the voyage of 1603, after obtaining what + information he could from the natives relating to the St. Lawrence and + the chain of lakes, he says they informed him that the last lake in the + chain was salt, and he therefore believed it to be the South Sea. He + doubtless enlarged verbally before the king upon the feasibility of a + passage to China in this way. + +12. The commission here referred to was doubtless the one renewed to him in + 1608, after he had made his searches on the shores of New England and + Nova Scotia, and after the commission or charter of 1603 had been + revoked. + + Champlain is here stating the advantages of a settlement in the + interior, on the shores of the St. Lawrence, rather than on the + Atlantic coast. + +13. In this chapter, Champlain speaks of events stretching through several + years; but in the next he confines himself to the occurrences of 1603, + when De Monts obtained his charter. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +DESCRIPTION OF SABLE ISLAND; CAPE BRETON; LA HÈVE; PORT AU MOUTON; PORT +CAPE NEGRE; SABLE BAY AND CAPE; CORMORANT ISLAND; CAPE FOURCHU; LONG +ISLAND; BAY OF SAINT MARY; PORT SAINT MARGARET; AND OF ALL NOTEWORTHY +OBJECTS ALONG THIS COAST. + +Sieur de Monts, by virtue of his commission [14] having published in all +the ports and harbors of this kingdom the prohibition against the violation +of the monopoly of the fur-trade accorded him by his Majesty, gathered +together about one hundred and twenty artisans, whom he embarked in two +vessels: one of a hundred and twenty tons, commanded by Sieur de Pont +Gravé; [15] another, of a hundred and fifty tons, in which he embarked +himself, [16] together with several noblemen. + +We set out from Havre de Grâce April 7th, 1604, and Pont Gravé April 10th, +to rendezvous at Canseau, [17] twenty leagues from Cape Breton. [18] But +after we were in mid-ocean, Sieur de Monts changed his plan, and directed +his course towards Port Mouton, it being more southerly and also more +favorable for landing than Canseau. + +On May 1st, we sighted Sable Island, where we ran a risk of being lost in +consequence of the error of our pilots, who were deceived in their +calculation, which they made forty leagues ahead of where we were. + +This island is thirty leagues distant north and South from Cape Breton, and +in length is about fifteen leagues. It contains a small lake. The island is +very sandy, and there are no trees at all of considerable size, only copse +and herbage, which serve as pasturage for the bullocks and cows, which the +Portuguese carried there more than sixty years ago, and which were very +serviceable to the party of the Marquis de la Roche. The latter, during +their sojourn of several years there, captured a large number of very fine +black foxes, [19] whose skins they carefully preserved. There are many +sea-wolves [20] there, with the skins of which they clothed themselves +since they had exhausted their own stock of garments. By order of the +Parliamentary Court of Rouen, a vessel was sent there to recover them. [21] +The directors of the enterprise caught codfish near the island, the +neighborhood of which abounds in shoals. + +On the 8th of the same month, we sighted Cap de la Hève, [22] to the east +of which is a bay, containing several islands covered with fir-trees. On +the main land are oaks, elms, and birches. It joins the coast of La Cadie +at the latitude of 44° 5', and at 16° 15' of the deflection of the magnetic +needle, distant east-north-east eighty-five leagues from Cape Breton, of +which we shall speak hereafter. + +On the 12th of May, we entered another port, [23] five leagues +from Cap de la Hève, where we captured a vessel engaged +in the fur-trade in violation of the king's prohibition. The +master's name was Rossignol, whose name the port retained, +which is in latitude 44° 15'. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +PORT DE LA HÈVE. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. The place where vessels anchor. +_B_. A small river dry at low tide. +_C_. Places where the savages have their cabins.[Note: The letter C is + wanting, but the location of the cabins is obvious.] +_D_. Shoal at the entrance of the harbor. [Note: The letter D is also + wanting, but the figures sufficiently indicate the depth of the + water.] +_E_. A small island covered with wood. [Note: The letter E appears twice by + mistake.] +_F_. Cape de la Hève [Note: The letter F is likewise wanting. It has been + supposed to be represented by one of the E's on the small island, but + Cap de la Hève, to which it refers, was not on this island, but on the + main land. The F should have been, we think, on the west of the + harbor, where the elevation is indicated on the map. _Vide_ note 22.] + + * * * * * + +On the 13th of May, we arrived at a very fine harbor, where there are two +little streams, called Port au Mouton, [24] which is seven leagues distant +from that of Rossignol. The land is very stony, and covered with copse and +heath. There are a great many rabbits, and a quantity of game in +consequence of the ponds there. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +PORT DU ROSSIGNOL. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. A river extending twenty-five leagues inland. +_B_. The place where vessels anchor. +_C_. Place on the main land where the savages have their dwellings. +_D_. Roadstead where vessels anchor while waiting for the tide. +_E_. Place on the island where the savages have their cabins. +_F_. Channel dry at low tide. +_G_. Shore of the main land. The dotted places indicate the shoals. + +NOTE. It would seem as if in the title Rossynol, on the map, the two dots +on the _y_ instead of the _n_ were placed there by mistake. + + * * * * * + +As Soon as we had disembarked, each one commenced making huts after his +fashion, on a point at the entrance of the harbor near two fresh-water +ponds. Sieur de Monts at the Same time despatched a shallop, in which he +sent one of us, with some savages as guides as bearers of letters, along +the coast of La Cadie, to search for Pont Gravé, who had a portion of the +necessary supplies for our winter sojourn. The latter was found at the Bay +of All-Isles, [25] very anxious about us (for he knew nothing of the change +of plan); and the letters were handed to him. As soon as be had read them, +he returned to his ship at Canseau, where he seized some Basque vessels +[26] engaged in the fur-trade, notwithstanding the prohibition of his +Majesty, and sent their masters to Sieur de Monts, who meanwhile charged me +to reconnoitre the coast and the harbors suitable for the secure reception +of our vessel. + +With the purpose of carrying out his wishes, I set out from Port Mouton on +the 19th of May, in a barque of eight tons, accompanied by Sieur Ralleau, +his secretary, and ten men. Advancing along the coast, we entered a harbor +very convenient for vessels, at the end of which is a small river, +extending very far into the main land. This I called the Port of Cape +Negro, [27] from a rock whose distant view resembles a negro, which rises +out of the water near a cape passed by us the same day, four leagues off +and ten from Port Mouton. This cape is very dangerous, on account of the +rocks running out into the sea. The shores which I saw, up to that point, +are very low, and covered with such wood as that seen at the Cap de la +Hève; and the islands are all filled with game. Going farther on, we passed +the night at Sable Bay, [28] where vessels can anchor without any danger. + +The next day we went to Cape Sable, [29] also very dangerous, in +consequence of certain rocks and reefs extending almost a league into the +sea. It is two leagues from Sable Bay, where we had spent the night before. +Thence we went to Cormorant Island, [30] a league distant, so called from +the infinite number of cormorants found there, of whose eggs we collected a +cask full. From this island, we sailed westerly about six leagues, crossing +a bay, which makes up to the north two or three leagues. Then we fell in +with several islands [31] distant two or three leagues from the main land; +and, as well as I could judge, some of them were two leagues in extent, +others three, and others were still smaller. Most of them are very +dangerous for large vessels to approach, on account of the tides and the +rocks on a level with the water. These islands are filled with pines, firs, +birches, and aspens. A little farther out, there are four more. In one, we +saw so great a quantity of birds, called penguins, [32] that we killed them +easily with sticks. On another, we found the shore completely covered with +sea-wolves, [33] of which we captured as many as we wished. At the two +others there is such an abundance of birds of different sorts that one +could not imagine it, if he had not seen them. There are cormorants, three +kinds of duck, geese, _marmettes?_, bustards, sea-parrots, snipe, vultures, +and other birds of prey; gulls, sea-larks of two or three kinds; herons, +large sea-gulls, curlews, sea-magpies, divers, ospreys, _appoils?_, ravens, +cranes, and other sorts which I am not acquainted with, and which also make +their nests here. [34] We named these Sea-Wolf Islands. They are in +latitude 43° 30', distant from four to five leagues from the main land, or +Cape Sable. After spending pleasantly some time there in hunting (and not +without capturing much game), we set out and reached a cape, [35] which we +christened Port Fourchu from its being fork-shaped, distant from five to +six leagues from the Sea-Wolf Islands. This harbor is very convenient for +vessels at its entrance; but its remoter part is entirely dry at low tide, +except the channel of a little stream, completely bordered by meadows, +which make this spot very pleasant. There is good codfishing near the +harbor. Departing from there, we sailed north ten or twelve leagues without +finding any harbor for our vessels, but a number of very fine inlets or +shores, where the soil seems to be well adapted for cultivation. The woods +are exceedingly fine here, but there are few pines and firs. This coast is +clear, without islands, rocks, or shoals; so that, in our judgment, vessels +can securely go there. Being distant quarter of a league from the coast, we +went to an island called Long Island, [36] lying north-north-east and +south-south-west, which makes an opening into the great Baye Françoise, +[37] so named by Sieur de Monts. + +This island is six leagues long, and nearly a league broad in some places, +in others only quarter of a league. It is covered with an abundance of +wood, such as pines and birch. All the coast is bordered by very dangerous +rocks; and there is no place at all favorable for vessels, only little +inlets for shallops at the extremity of the island, and three or four small +rocky islands, where the savages capture many sea-wolves. There are strong +tides, especially at the little passage [38] of the island, which is very +dangerous for vessels running the risk of passing through it. + +From Long Island passage, we sailed north-east two leagues, when we found a +cove [39] where vessels can anchor in safety, and which is quarter of a +league or thereabouts in circuit. The bottom is all mire, and the +surrounding land is bordered by very high rocks. In this place there is a +very good silver mine, according to the report of the miner, Master Simon, +who accompanied me. Some leagues farther on there is a little stream called +river Boulay [40] where the tide rises half a league into the land, at the +mouth of which vessels of a hundred tons can easily ride at anchor. Quarter +of a league from here there is a good harbor for vessels, where we found an +iron mine, which our miner estimated would yield fifty per cent [41] +Advancing three leagues farther on to the northeast [42] we saw another +very good iron mine, near which is a river surrounded by beautiful and +attractive meadows. The neighboring soil is red as blood. Some leagues +farther on there is still another river, [43] dry at low tide, except in +its very small channel, and which extends near to Port Royal. At the +extremity of this bay is a channel, also dry at low tide [44] surrounding +which are a number of pastures and good pieces of land for cultivation, +where there are nevertheless great numbers of fine trees of all the kinds +previously mentioned. The distance from Long Island to the end of this bay +may be some six leagues. The entire coast of the mines is very high, +intersected by capes, which appear round, extending out a short distance. +On the other side of the bay, on the south-east, the land is low and good, +where there is a very good harbor, having a bank at its entrance over which +it is necessary to pass. On this bar there is a fathom and a half of water +at low tide; but after passing it you find three, with good bottom. Between +the two points of the harbor there is a pebbly islet, covered at full +tide. This place extends half a league inland. The tide falls here three +fathoms, and there are many shell-fish, such as muscles, cockles, and +sea-snails. The soil is as good as any that I have seen. I named this +harbor Saint Margaret. [45] This entire south-east coast is much lower than +that of the mines, which is only a league and a half from the coast of +Saint Margaret, being Separated by the breadth of the bay, [46] which is +three leagues at its entrance. I took the altitude at this place, and found +the latitude 45° 30', and a little more,[47] the deflection of the magnetic +needle being 17° 16'. + +After having explored as particularly as I could the coasts, ports, and +harbors, I returned, without advancing any farther, to Long Island passage, +whence I went back outside of all the islands in order to observe whether +there was any danger at all on the water side. But we found none whatever, +except there were some rocks about half a league from Sea-Wolf Islands, +which, however, can be easily avoided, since the sea breaks over them. +Continuing our voyage, we were overtaken by a violent wind, which obliged +us to run our barque ashore, where we were in danger of losing her, which +would have caused us extreme perplexity. The tempest having ceased, we +resumed the sea, and the next day reached Port Mouton, where Sieur de Monts +was awaiting us from day to day, thinking only of our long stay, [48] and +whether some accident had not befallen us. I made a report to him of our +voyage, and where our vessels might go in Safety. Meanwhile, I observed +very particularly that place which is in latitude 44°. + +The next day Sieur de Monts gave orders to weigh anchor and proceed to the +Bay of Saint Mary, [49] a place which we had found to be Suitable for our +vessel to remain in, until we should be able to find one more advantageous. +Coasting along, we passed near Cape Sable and the Sea-Wolf Islands, whither +Sieur de Monts decided to go in a shallop, and see some islands of which we +had made a report to him, as also of the countless number of birds found +there. Accordingly, he set out, accompanied by Sieur de Poutrincourt, and +several other noblemen, with the intention of going to Penguin Island, +where we had previously killed with sticks a large number of these +birds. Being somewhat distant from our ship, it was beyond our power to +reach it, and still less to reach our vessel; for the tide was so strong +that we were compelled to put in at a little island to pass the night, +where there was much game. I killed there some river-birds, which were very +acceptable to us, especially as we had taken only a few biscuit, expecting +to return the same day. The next day we reached Cape Fourchu, distant half +a league from there. Coasting along, we found our vessel in the Bay of +Saint Mary. Our company were very anxious about us for two days, fearing +lest some misfortune had befallen us; but, when they saw us all safe, they +were much rejoiced. + +Two or three days after our arrival, one of our priests, named Mesire Aubry +[50] from Paris, got lost so completely in the woods while going after his +sword, which he had forgotten, that he could not find the vessel. And he +was thus seventeen days without any thing to subsist upon except some sour +and bitter plants like the sorrel, and some small fruit of little substance +large as currants, which creep upon the ground. [51] Being at his wits' +end, without hope of ever seeing us again, weak and feeble, he found +himself on the shore of Baye Françoise, thus named by Sieur de Monts, near +Long Island, [52] where his strength gave out, when one of our shallops out +fishing discovered him. Not being able to shout to them, he made a sign +with a pole, on the end of which he had put his hat, that they should go +and get him. This they did at once, and brought him off. Sieur de Monts had +caused a search to be made not only by his own men, but also by the savages +of those parts, who scoured all the woods, but brought back no intelligence +of him. Believing him to be dead, they all saw him coming back in the +shallop to their great delight. A long time was needed to restore him to +his usual strength. + +ENDNOTES: + +14. _Vide Commission du Roy au Sieur de Monts, pour l'habitation és terres + de la Cadie, Canada, et autres endroits en la Nouvelle-France_, + Histoire de a Nouvelle-France, par Marc Lescarbot, Paris, 1612, Qvat. + Liv. p. 431. This charter may also be found in English in a _Collection + of Voyages and Travels compiled from the Library of the Earl of Oxford, + by Thomas Osborne_, London, 1745, Vol. II. pp. 796-798; also in + _Murdoch's History of Nova Scotia_, Halifax, 1865, Vol. I. pp. 21-24. + +15. The second officer, or pilot, was, according to Lescarbot, Captain + Morel, of Honfleur. + +16. This was under the direction of De Monts himself; and Captain Timothée, + of Havre de Grâce, was pilot, or the second officer. + +17. Lescarbot writes this name Campseau; Champlain's orthography is + Canceau; the English often write Canso, but more correctly Canseau. It + has been derived from _Cansoke_, an Indian word, meaning _facing the + frowning cliffs_. + +18. The Cape and Island of Cape Breton appear to have taken their name from + the fisherman of Brittany, who frequented that region as early as 1504 + --_Vide Champlain's Voyages_, Paris 1632, p. 9. + + Thévet sailed along the coast in 1556, and is quoted by Laverdière, as + follows: "In this land there is a province called Compestre de Berge, + extending towards the south-east: in the eastern part of the same is + the cape or promontory of Lorraine, called so by us; others have given + it the came of the Cape of the Bretons, since the Bretons, the + Bisayans, and Normans repair thither, and coast along on their way to + Newfoundland to fish for codfish." + + An inscription, "_tera que soy descuberta per pertonnes_," on an Old + Portuguese map of 1520, declares it to be a country discovered by the + Bretons. It is undoubtedly the oldest French name on any part of North + America. On Gastaldo's map in Mattiolo's Italian translation of + Ptolemy, 1548, the name of Breton is applied both to Nova Scotia and to + the Island of Cape Breton. + +19. Winthrop says that Mr. John Rose, who was cast away on Sable Island + about 1633, "saw about eight hundred cattle, small and great, all red, + and the largest he ever saw: and many foxes, wherof some perfect + black."--_Whinthrop's Hist. New Eng._, Boston, 1853, Vol. I. p. 193. + + Champlain doubtless obtained his information in regard to the cattle + left upon Sable Island by the Portuguese from the from the report of + Edward Haies on the voyage of Sir Humphrey Gilbert in 1583: + + "Sablon lieth to the seaward of Cape Briton about twenty-five leagues, + whither we were determined to goe vpon intelligence we had of a + Portugal (during our abode in S. Johns) who was himselfe present, when + the Portugals (aboue thirty yeeres past) did put in the same Island + both Neat and Swine to breede, which were since exceedingly multiplied. + This seemed vnto vs very happy tidings, to haue in an Island lying so + neere vnto the maine, which we intended to plant vpon. Such store of + cattell, whereby we might at all times conueniently be relieued of + victuall, and serued of store for breed."--_Edward Haies in Hakluyt's + Voyages_, London, ed. 1810. Vol. III. p. 197. + +20. "Loups marins," seals. + +21. "The forty poor wretches whom he left on Sable Island found on the + seashore some wrecks of vessels, out of which they built barracks to + shield themselves from the severity of the weather. They were the + remains of Spanish vessels, which had sailed to settle Cape Breton. + From these same ships had come some sheep and cattle, which had + multiplied on Sable Island; and this was for some time a resource for + these poor exiles. Fish was their next food; and, when their clothes + were worn out, they made new ones of seal-skin. At last, after a lapse + of seven years, the king, having heard of their adventure, obliged + Chedotel, the pilot, to go for them; but he found only twelve, the rest + having died of their hardships. His majesty desired to see those, who + returned in the same guise as found by Chedotel, covered with + seal-skin, with their hair and beard of a length and disorder that made + them resemble the pretended river-gods, and so disfigured as to inspire + horror. The king gave them fifty crowns apiece, and sent them home + released from all process of law."--_Shea's Charlevoix_, New York, + 1866, Vol. I. p. 244. See also _Sir William Alexander and American + Colonization_, Prince Society, 1873, p. 174; _Murdoch's Nova Scotia_, + Vol. I. p. 11; _Hakluyt_, Vol. II. pp. 679. 697. + +22. This cape still bears the same name, and is the western point of the + bay at the mouth of a river, likewise of the same name, in the county + of Lunenberg, Nova Scotia. It is an abrupt cliff, rising up one hundred + and fifty feet above the level of the sea. It could therefore be seen + at a great distance, and appears to have been the first land sighted by + them on the coast of La Cadie. A little north of Havre de Grâce, in + Normandy, the port from which De Monts and Champlain had sailed, is to + be seen the high, commanding, rocky bluff, known as _Cap de la Hève_. + The place which they first sighted, similar at least in some respects, + they evidently named after this bold and striking headland, which may, + perhaps, have been the last object which they saw on leaving the shores + of France. The word _Hève_ seems to have had a local meaning, as may be + inferred from the following excerpt: "A name, in Lower Normandy, for + cliffs hollowed out below, and where fishermen search for crabs."-- + _Littré_. The harbor delineated on Champlain's local map is now called + Palmerston Bay, and is at the mouth of Petit River. The latitude of + this harbor is about 44° 15'. De Laet's description is fuller than that + of Champlain or Lescarbot.--_Vide Novus Orbis_, 1633, p. 51. + +23. Liverpool, which for a long time bore the name of Port Rossignol; the + lake at the head of the river, about ten miles long and two or three + wide, the largest in Nova Scotia, still bears that appellation. The + latitude is 44° 2' 30". + +24. "Lequel ils appelèrent _Le Port du Mouton_, à l'occasion d'un mouton + qui s'estant nové revint à bord, et fut mangé de bonne guerre."-- + _Histoire de la Nouvelle-France_, par Marc Lescarbot, Paris, 1612, + Qvat. Liv. p. 449. It still bears the name of Port Mouton, and an + island in the bay is called Mouton Island. + +25. _Baye de Toutes-isles_. Lescarbot calls it "La Baye des Iles:" and + Charlevoix, "Baye de toutes les Isles." It was the bay, or rather the + waters, that stretch along the shores of Halifax County, between Owl's + Head and Liscomb River. + +26. The confiscated provisions taken in the vessels of the Basque + fur-traders and in that of Rossignol were, according to Lescarbot, + found very useful. De Monts had given timely notice of his monopoly; + and, whether it had reached them or not, they were doubtless wrong in + law. Although De Monts treated them with gentleness, nevertheless it is + not unlikely that a compromise would have been better policy than an + entire confiscation of their property, as these Basques afterwards, on + their return to France, gave him serious inconvenience. They were + instrumental mainly in wresting from him his charter of La Cadie. + +27. _Le Port du Cap Negré_. This port still bears the name of Negro + Harbor. It is situated at the mouth of the Clyde, the small river + referred to in the text. + +28. Near Cape Sable Island, at what is now known as Barrington Harbor. + +29. This is still called Cape Sable, and is the southern point of Sable + Island, or, more properly, the cluster of rock, and islets that + surround its southern extremity. + +30. _Isle aux Cormorans_. It is difficult to distinguish with certainty the + island here referred to, but it was probably Hope Island, as this lies + directly in their way in crossing the bay, six leagues wide, which is + now known as Townsend Bay. The bird here mentioned was the common + cormorant. _Graculus carbo_, of a glossy greenish-black color, back and + wings bronzy-gray; about three feet in length, and is common on our + northern Atlantic coast: eminently gregarious, particularly in the + breeding season, congregating in vast flocks. At the present time, it + breeds in great numbers in Labrador and Newfoundland, and in the winter + migrates as far south as the Middle States. They feed principally upon + fish, lay commonly two eggs, of a pale greenish color, overlaid with a + white chalky substance.--_Vide Cones's Key to Nor. Am. Birds_. Boston, + 1872. p. 302. + +31. A cluster of islands now known as the Tousquet or Tusket Islands. + Further on, Champlain says they named them _Isles aux loups marins_. + Sea-Wolf Islands. About five leagues south of them is an island now + called Seal Island. The four more which he saw a little further on were + probably in Townsend Bay. + +32. This is the Auk, family _Alcidae_, and must not be confounded with the + penguin of the southern hemisphere, although it is described by the + early navigators of the Northern Atlantic under that appellation. In + Anthony Parkhurst's letter to Hakluyt, 1578, he says: "These birds are + also called Penguins, and cannot flie, there is more meate in one of + these then in a goose: the Frenchmen that fish neere the grand baie, do + bring small store of flesh with them, but victuall themselves alwayes + with these birds."--_Hakluyt_, London, ed. 1810, Vol. III. p. 172. + Edward Haies, in his report of the voyage of Sir Humphrey Gilbert in + 1583, say's: "We had sight of an Island named Penguin, of a foule there + breeding in abundance, almost incredible, which cannot flie, their + wings not able to carry their body, being very large (not much lesse + then a goose), and exceeding fat: which the Frenchmen use to take + without difficulty upon that Island, and to barrell them up with salt." + _Idem_, p. 191. + + The Auk is confined to the northern hemisphere, where it represents the + penguins of the southern. Several species occur in the Northern + Atlantic in almost incredible numbers: they are all marine, feed on + fish and other animal substances exclusively, and lay from one to three + eggs on the bare rocks. Those seen by Champlain and other early + navigators were the Great Auk. _Alca impennis_, now nearly extinct. It + was formerly found on the coast of New England, as is proved not only + by the testimony of the primitive explorers, but by the remains found + in shell-heaps. The latest discovery was of one found dead near + St. Augustine, in Labrador, in 1870. A specimen of the Great Auk is + preserved in the Cambridge Museum.--_Vide Coues's Key to North Am. + Birds_, Boston, 1872. p. 338. + +33. The sea-wolf or _loup marin_ of Champlain is the marine mammiferous + quadruped of the family Phocidae, known as the seal. Sea-wolf was a + name applied to it by the early navigators.--_Vide Purchas's Pilgrims_, + London, 1625. Vol. IV. p. 1385. Those here mentioned were the common + seal, _Phoca vitulina_, which are still found on the coasts of Nova + Scotia, vulgarly known as the harbor seal. They are thinly distributed + as far south as Long Island Sound, but are found in great numbers in + the waters of Labrador and Newfoundland, where they are taken for the + oil obtained from them, and for the skins, which are used for various + purposes in the arts. + +34. The names given to these birds were such, doubtless, as were known to + belong to birds similar in color, size, and figure in Europe. Some of + them were probably misapplied. The name alone is not sufficient for + identification. + +35. This cape, near the entrance to Yarmouth, still bears the same name, + from _fourchu_, forked. On a map of 1755, it is called Forked Cape, and + near it is Fork Ledge and Forked Harbor.--_Memorials of English and + French Commissaries_, London, 1755. + +36. It still retains the name given to it by Champlain. It forms a part of + the western limit of St. Mary's Bay, and a line drawn from it to the + St. Croix, cutting the Grand Manan, would mark the entrance of the Bay + of Fundy. + +37. The Bay of Fundy was thus first named "Baye Françoise" by De Monts, and + continued to be so called, as will appear by reference to the early + maps, as that of De Laet, 1633; Charlevoix, 1744; Rouge, 1778. It first + appears distinctly on the carte of Diego Homem of 1558, but without + name. On Cabot's Mappe-Monde, in "Monuments de la Géographie," we find + _rio fondo_, which may represent the Bay of Fundy, and may have + suggested the name adopted by the English, which it still retains. Sir + William Alexander's map, 1624, has Argal's Bay; Moll's map, 1712, has + Fundi Bay; that of the English and French Commissaries, 1755, has Bay + of Fundy, or Argal. + +38. This strait, known by the name Petit Passage, separates Long Island + from Digby Neck. + +39. A place called Little River, on Digby Neck. + +40. Now known as Sandy Cove. + +41. Lescarbot says of this iron mine, and of the silver mine above, that + they were proved not to be abundant. + +42. This was probably near Rossway. + +43. This was clearly Smith Creek or Smelt River, which rises near Annapolis + Basin, or the Port Royal Basin of the French. + +44. He here doubtless refers to North Creek, at the north-eastern extremity + of St. Mary's Bay. + +45. Now Weymouth Harbor, on the south-eastern shore of St. Mary's Bay, at + the mouth of Sissibou River, and directly opposite Sandy Cove, near the + iron mine mentioned above. + +46. The distance across the bay at this point, as here stated, is nearly + accurate. + +47. This is clearly a mistake; the true latitude at the Petit Passage is + 44° 23'. It may here be remarked that Champlain's latitudes are very + inaccurate, often varying more than half a degree; doubtless owing to + the imperfection of the instruments which were employed in taking them. + +48. They had been occupied in this exploration about three weeks, Lescarbot + says a month, but this is an overstatement. By a careful examination of + the text, it will appear that they departed from Port Mouton on the + 19th of May, and that several days after their return, not less than + nine, they were again in St. Mary's Bay, on the 16th of June. They had + been absent, therefore, about twenty-one days. The latitude of Port + Mouton, stated a little below to be 44°, is in fact 43° 57'. + +49. This bay, still retaining its ancient appellation, was so named by + Champlain on his first visit. "Ceste baye fut nommée la baye Saincte + Marie."--_Champlain's Voyages_, 1632, Quebec ed., Vol. V. p. 716. + +50. Nicholas Aubry, a young Parisian of good family, "vn certain homme + d'Église," as Lescarbot says, probably not long in holy orders, had + undertaken this voyage with De Monts to gratify his desire to see the + New World, though quite against the wishes of his friends, who had sent + in vain to Honfleur to prevent his embarkation. After the search made + by De Monts, with the sounding of trumpets and the discharge of cannon, + they left St. Mary's Bay, having given up all expectation of his + recovery. Some two weeks afterward, an expedition was Sent out to + St. Mary's Bay, conducted by De Champdoré, an experienced pilot, with a + mineralogist, to search for silver and iron ore. While Some of the + party were on a fishing excursion, they rescued him, as stated in the + text. The safe return of the young and too venturesome ecclesiastic + gave great relief to De Monts, as Lescarbot says a Protestant was + charged to have killed him, because they quarrelled sometimes about + their religion.--_Vide Histoire de Nouvelle-France_, par Mare + Lescarbot, Paris, 1612, Qvat. Liv. p. 453. + +51. The partridge-berry, Mitchella, a trailing evergreen, bearing scarlet + berries, edible but nearly tasteless, which remain through the winter. + It is peculiar to America, and this is probably the first time it was + noticed by any historical writer. + +52. He was on the western side of Digby Neck, at its southern extremity, + near the Petit Passage on the shore of the Bay of Fundy. + + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +DESCRIPTION OF PORT ROYAL AND THE PECULIARITIES OF THE SAME.--ISLE HAUTE.-- +PORT OF MINES.--BAYE FRANÇOISE.-THE RIVER ST. JOHN, AND WHAT WE OBSERVED +BETWEEN THE PORT OF MINES AND THE SAME.--THE ISLAND CALLED BY THE SAVAGES +MANTHANE.--THE RIVER OF THE ETECHEMINS, AND SEVERAL FINE ISLANDS THERE.-- +ST. CROIX ISLAND, AND OTHER NOTEWORTHY OBJECTS ON THIS COAST. + +Some days after, Sieur de Monts decided to go and examine the coasts of +Baye Françoise. For this purpose, he set out from the vessel on the 16th of +May,[53] and we went through the strait of Long Island.[54] Not having +found in St. Mary's Bay any place in which to fortify ourselves except at +the cost of much time, we accordingly resolved to see whether there might +not be a more favorable one in the other bay. Heading north-east six +leagues, there is a cove where vessels can anchor in four, five, six, and +seven fathoms of water. The bottom is sandy. This place is only a kind of +roadstead.[55] Continuing two leagues farther on in the same direction, we +entered one of the finest harbors I had seen along all these coasts, in +which two thousand vessels might lie in security. The entrance is eight +hundred paces broad; then you enter a harbor two leagues long and one +broad, which I have named Port Royal.[56] Three rivers empty into it, one +of which is very large, extending eastward, and called Rivière de +l'Équille,[57] from a little fish of the size of an _esplan?_, which is +caught there in large numbers, as is also the herring, and several other +kinds of fish found in abundance in their season. This river is nearly a +quarter of a league broad at its entrance, where there is an island [58] +perhaps half a league in circuit, and covered with wood like all the rest +of the country, as pines, firs, spruces, birches, aspens, and some oaks, +although the latter are found in small numbers in comparison with the other +kinds. There are two entrances to the above river, one on the north, the +other on the south side of the island. That on the north is the better, and +vessels can there anchor under shelter of the island in five, six, seven, +eight, and nine fathoms. But it is necessary to be on one's guard against +some shallows near the island on the one side, and the main land on the +other, very dangerous, if one does not know the channel. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S DESCRIPTION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +PORT AU MOUTON. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. Place where vessels lie. +_B_. Place where we made our camp. +_C_. A pond. +_D_. An island at the entrance to the harbor, covered with wood. +_E_. A river very shallow. +_F_. A pond. +_G_. A very large brook coming from the pond F. +_H_. Six little islands in the harbor. +_L_. Country, containing only copse and heath of very small size. +_M_. Sea-shore. + +NOTE.--The wanting letter L should probably be placed where the trees are +represented as very small, between the letters B and the island F. + + * * * * * + +We ascended the river some fourteen or fifteen leagues, where the tide +rises, and it is not navigable much farther. It has there a breadth of +sixty paces, and about a fathom and a half of water. The country bordering +the river is filled with numerous oaks, ashes, and other trees. Between the +mouth of the river and the point to which we ascended there are many +meadows, which are flooded at the spring tides, many little streams +traversing them from one side to the other, through which shallops and +boats can go at full tide. This place was the most favorable and agreeable +for a settlement that we had seen. There is another island [59] within the +port, distant nearly two leagues from the former. At this point is another +little stream, extending a considerable distance inland, which we named +Rivière St. Antoine. [60] Its mouth is distant from the end of the Bay of +St. Mary some four leagues through the woods. The remaining river is only a +small stream filled with rocks, which cannot be ascended at all on account +of the small amount of water, and which has been named Rocky Brook. [61] +This place is in latitude [62] 45°; and 17° 8' of the deflection of the +magnetic needle. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S DESCRIPTION OF THE MAP + +PORT ROYAL + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. Our habitation. [Note: On the present site of Lower Granville.] + +_B_. Garden of Sieur de Champlain. +_C_. Road through the woods that Sieur de Poutrincourt had made. +_D_. Island at the mouth of Équille River. +_E_. Entrance to Port Royal, +_F_. Shoals, dry at low tide. +_G_. River St. Antoine. [Note: The stream west of river St. Antoine is the + Jogging River.] +_H_. Place under cultivation for sowing wheat. [Note: The site of the + present town of Annapolis.] +_I_. Mill that Sieur de Poutrincourt had made. +_L_. Meadows overflowed at highest tides. +_M_. Équille River. +_N_. Seacoast of Port Royal. +_O_. Ranges of mountains. +_P_. Island near the river St. Antoine. +_Q_. Rocky Brook. [Footnote: Now called Deep Brook.] +_R_. Another brook. [Note: Morris River.] +_S_. Mill River. [Note: Allen River.] +_T_. Small lake. +_V_. Place where the savages catch herring in the season. +_X_. Trout brook. [Note: Trout Brook is now called Shäfer's Brook, and the + first on the west is Thorne's, and the second Scofield's Brook.] +_Y_. A lane that Sieur de Champlain had made. + + * * * * * + +After having explored this harbor, we set out to advance farther on in Baye +Françoise, and see whether we could not find the copper mine, [63] which +had been discovered the year before. Heading north-east, and sailing eight +or ten leagues along the coast of Port Royal,[64] we crossed a part of the +bay Some five or six leagues in extent, when we arrived at a place which we +called the Cape of Two Bays;[65] and we passed by an island a league +distant therefrom, a league also in circuit, rising up forty or forty-five +fathoms. [66] It is wholly surrounded by great rocks, except in one place +which is sloping, at the foot of which slope there is a pond of salt water, +coming from under a pebbly point, having the form of a spur. The surface of +the island is flat, covered with trees, and containing a fine spring of +water. In this place is a copper mine. Thence we proceeded to a harbor a +league and a half distant, where we supposed the copper mine was, which a +certain Prevert of St. Malo had discovered by aid of the savages of the +country. This port is in latitude 45° 40', and is dry at low tide. [67] In +order to enter it, it is necessary to place beacons, and mark out a +sand-bank at the entrance, which borders a channel that extends along the +main land. Then you enter a bay nearly a league in length, and half a +league in breadth. In some places, the bottom is oozy and sandy, where +vessels may get aground. The sea falls and rises there to the extent of +four or five fathoms. We landed to see whether we could find the mines +which Prevert had reported to us. Having gone about a quarter of a league +along certain mountains, we found none, nor did we recognize any +resemblance to the description of the harbor he had given us. Accordingly, +he had not himself been there, but probably two or three of his men had +been there, guided by some savages, partly by land and partly by little +streams, while he awaited them in his shallop at the mouth of a little +river in the Bay of St. Lawrence.[68] These men, upon their return, +brought him several small pieces of copper, which he showed us when he +returned from his voyage. Nevertheless, we found in this harbor two mines +of what seemed to be copper according to the report of our miner, who +considered it very good, although it was not native copper. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S DESCRIPTION OF THE MAP. + +PORT DES MINES. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. A place where vessels are liable to run aground. +_B_. A Small river. +_C_. A tongue of land composed of Sand. +_D_. A point composed of large pebbles, which is like a mole. +_E_. Location of a copper mine, which is covered by the tide twice a day. +_F_. An island to the rear of the Cape of Mines. [Note: Now called + Spencer's Island. Champlain probably obtained his knowledge of this + island at a subsequent visit. There is a creek extending from near + Spencer's Island between the rocky elevations to Advocate's Harbor, or + nearly so, which Champlain does not appear to have seen, or at least + he does not represent it on his map. This point, thus made an island + by the creek, has an elevation of five hundred feet, at the base of + which was the copper mine which they discovered.--_Vide_ note 67.] +_G_. Roadstead where vessels anchor while waiting for the tide. +_H_. Isle Haute, which is a league and a half from Port of Mines. +_I_. Channel. +_L_. Little River. +_M_. Range of mountains along the coast of the Cape of Mines. + + * * * * * + +The head [69] of the Baye Françoise, which we crossed, is fifteen leagues +inland. All the land which we have seen in coasting along from the little +passage of Long Island is rocky, and there is no place except Port Royal +where vessels can lie in Safety. The land is covered with pines and +birches, and, in my opinion, is not very good. + +On the 20th of May,[70] we set out from the Port of Mines to seek a place +adapted for a permanent stay, in order to lose no time, purposing +afterwards to return, and see if we could discover the mine of pure copper +which Prevert's men had found by aid of the savages. We sailed west two +leagues as far as the cape of the two bays, then north five or six leagues; +and we crossed the other bay,[71] where we thought the copper mine was, of +which we have already spoken: inasmuch as there are there two rivers, [72] +the one coming from the direction of Cape Breton, and the other from Gaspé +or Tregatté, near the great river St. Lawrence. Sailing west some six +leagues, we arrived at a little river,[73] at the mouth of which is rather +a low cape, extending out into the sea; and a short distance inland there +is a mountain,[74] having the shape of a Cardinal's hat. In this place we +found an iron mine. There is anchorage here only for shallops. Four leagues +west south-west is a rocky point [75] extending out a short distance into +the water, where there are strong tides which are very dangerous. Near the +point we saw a cove about half a league in extent, in which we found +another iron mine, also very good. Four leagues farther on is a fine bay +running up into the main land;[76] at the extremity of which there are +three islands and a rock; two of which are a league from the cape towards +the west, and the other is at the mouth of the largest and deepest river we +had yet seen, which we named the river St. John, because it was on this +saint's day that we arrived there.[77] By the savages it is called +Ouygoudy. This river is dangerous, if one does not observe carefully +certain points and rocks on the two sides. It is narrow at its entrance, +and then becomes broader. A certain point being passed, it becomes narrower +again, and forms a kind of fall between two large cliffs, where the water +runs so rapidly that a piece of wood thrown in is drawn under and not seen +again. But by waiting till high tide you can pass this fall very easily. +[78] Then it expands again to the extent of about a league in some places, +where there are three islands. We did not explore it farther up.[79] But +Ralleau, secretary of Sieur de Monts, went there some time after to see a +savage named Secondon, chief of this river, who reported that it was +beautiful, large, and extensive, with many meadows and fine trees, as oaks, +beeches, walnut-trees, and also wild grapevines. The inhabitants of the +country go by this river to Tadoussac, on the great river St. Lawrence, +making but a short portage on the journey. From the river St. John to +Tadoussac is sixty-five leagues.[80] At its mouth, which is in latitude +45° 40', there is an iron mine.[81] + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S DESCRIPTION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +RIVIÈRE ST. JEHAN. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. Three islands above the falls. [Note: The islands are not close + together as here represented. One is very near the main land on one + shore, and two on the other.] +_B_. Mountains rising up from the main land, two leagues south of the + river. +_C_. The fall in the river. +_D_. Shoals where vessels, when the tide is out, are liable to run aground. +_E_. Cabin where the savages fortify themselves. +_F_. A pebbly point where there is a cross. +_G_. An island at the entrance of the river. [Note: Partridge Island.] +_H_. A Small brook coming from a little pond. [Note: Mill Pond.] +_I_. Arm of the sea dry at low tide. [Note: Marsh Creek, very shallow but + not entirely dry at low tide.] +_L_. Two little rocky islets. [Note: These islets are not now represented + on the charts, and are probably rocks near the shore from which the + soil may have been washed away since 1604.] +_M_. A small pond. +_N_. Two brooks. +_O_. Very dangerous shoals along the coast, which are dry at low tide. +_P_. Way by which the savages carry their canoes in passing the falls. +_Q_. Place for anchoring where the river runs with full current. + + * * * * * + +From the river St. John we went to four islands, on one of which we landed, +and found great numbers of birds called magpies,[82] of which we captured +many small ones, which are as good as pigeons. Sieur de Poutrincourt came +near getting lost here, but he came back to our barque at last, when we had +already gone to search for him about the island, which is three leagues +distant from the main land. Farther west are other islands; among them one +six leagues in length, called by the savages Manthane,[83] south of which +there are among the islands several good harbors for vessels. From the +Magpie Islands we proceeded to a river on the main land called the river of +the Etechemins,[84] a tribe of savages so called in their country. We +passed by so many islands that we could not ascertain their number, which +were very fine. Some were two leagues in extent, others three, others more +or less. All of these islands are in a bay,[85] having, in my estimation, a +circuit of more than fifteen leagues. There are many good places capable of +containing any number of vessels, and abounding in fish in the season, such +as codfish, salmon, bass, herring, halibut, and other kinds in great +numbers. Sailing west-north-west three leagues through the islands, we +entered a river almost half a league in breadth at its mouth, sailing up +which a league or two we found two islands: one very small near the western +bank; and the other in the middle, having a circumference of perhaps eight +or nine hundred paces, with rocky sides three or four fathoms high all +around, except in one small place, where there is a sandy point and clayey +earth adapted for making brick and other useful articles. There is another +place affording a shelter for vessels from eighty to a hundred tons, but it +is dry at low tide. The island is covered with firs, birches, maples, and +oaks. It is by nature very well situated, except in one place, where for +about forty paces it is lower than elsewhere: this, however, is easily +fortified, the banks of the main land being distant on both sides some nine +hundred to a thousand paces. Vessels could pass up the river only at the +mercy of the cannon on this island, and we deemed the location the most +advantageous, not only on account of its situation and good foil, but also +on account of the intercourse which we proposed with the savages of these +coasts and of the interior, as we should be in the midst of them. We hoped +to pacify them in the course of time, and put an end to the wars which they +carry on with one another, so as to derive service from them in future, and +convert them to the Christian faith. This place was named by Sieur de Monts +the Island of St. Croix. [86] Farther on, there is a great bay, in which +are two islands, one high and the other flat; also three rivers, two of +moderate size, one extending towards the east, the other towards the north, +and the third of large size, towards the west. The latter is that of the +Etechemins, of which we spoke before. Two leagues up this there is a +waterfall, around which the savages carry their canoes some five hundred +paces by land, and then re-enter the river. Passing afterwards from the +river a short distance overland, one reaches the rivers Norumbegue and +St. John. But the falls are impassable for vessels, as there are only rocks +and but four or five feet of water.[87] In May and June, so great a number +of herring and bass are caught there that vessels could be loaded with +them. The soil is of the finest sort, and there are fifteen or twenty acres +of cleared land, where Sieur de Monts had some wheat sown, which flourished +finely. The savages come here sometimes five or six weeks during the +fishing Season. All the rest of the country consists of very dense forests. +If the land were cleared up, grain would flourish excellently. This place +is in latitude 45° 20',[88] and 17° 32' of the deflection of the magnetic +needle. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S DESCRIPTION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +ISLE DE SAINTE CROIX. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. A plan of our habitation. +_B_. Gardens. +_C_. Little islet serving as a platform for cannon. [Note: This refers to + the southern end of the island, which was probably separated at high + tide, where a cannon may be seen in position.] +_D_. Platform where cannon were placed. +_E_. The Cemetery. +_F_. The Chapel. +_G_. Rocky shoals about the Island Sainte Croix. +_H_. A little islet. [Note: Little De Monts's Island, Sometimes called + Little Dochet's Island.] +_I_. Place where Sieur de Monts had a water-mill commenced. +_L_. Place where we made our coal. +_M_. Gardens on the western shore. +_N_. Other gardens on the eastern shore. +_O_. Very large and high mountain on the main land. [Note: This "mountain" + is now called Chamcook Hill. Its height is 627 feet. At the northern + end of the island on the right there is an extensive sandy shoal, dry + at low tide, of a triangular shape as formerly, and has apparently + changed very little since the days of Champlain.] +_P_. River of the Etechemins flowing about the Island of St. Croix. + + * * * * * + +ENDNOTES: + +53. For May read June. It could not have been in May, since Champlain Set + out from Port Mouton on his exploring expedition on the 19th of May, + which must have been a month previous to this. + +54. What is now called the Petit Passage, the narrow strait between Long + Island and Digby Neck. + +55. Gulliver's Hole, about two leagues south-west of Digby Strait. + +56. Champlain here names the whole harbor or basin Port Royal, and not the + place of habitation afterward so called. The first settlement was on + the north side of the bay in the present hamlet of Lower Granville, not + as often alleged at Annapolis.--_Vide_ Champlain's engraving or map of + Port Royal. + +57. "Équille." A name, on the coasts between Caen and Havre, of the fish + called lançon at Granville and St. Malo, a kind of malacopterygious + fish living on sandy shores and hiding in the sand at low tide.-- + _Littré_. A species of sand eel. This stream is now known as the + Annapolis River. Lescarbot calls it Rivière du Dauphin. + +58. This island is situated at the point where the Annapolis River flows + into the bay, or about nine miles from Digby, straight. Champlain on + his map gives it no name, but Lescarbot calls it Biencourville. It is + now called Goat Island. + +59. Lescarbot calls it Claudiane. It is now known as Bear Island. It was + Sometimes called Ile d'Hébert, and likewise Imbert Island. Laverdière + suggests that the present name is derived from the French pronunciation + of the last syllable of Imbert. + +60. At present known as Bear River; Lescarbot has it Hebert, and + Charlevoix, Imbert. + +61. On modern maps called Moose River, and sometimes Deep Brook. It is a + few miles east of Bear River. + +62. The latitude is here overstated: it should be 44° 39' 30". + +63. On the preceding year, M. Prevert of St. Malo had made a glowing report + ostensively based on his own observations and information which he had + obtained from the Indians, in regard to certain mines alleged to exist + on the coast directly South of Northumberland Strait, and about the + head of the Bay of Fundy. It was this report of Prevert that induced + the present search. + +64. Along the Bay of Fundy nearly parallel to the basin of Port Royal would + better express the author's meaning. + +65. Cape Chignecto, the point where the Bay of Fundy is bifurcated; the + northern arm forming Chignecto Bay, and the southern, the Bay of Mines + or Minas Basin. + +66. Isle Haute, or high island.--_Vide Charlevoix's Map_. On Some maps this + name has been strangely perverted into Isle Holt, Isle Har, &c. Its + height is 320 feet. + +67. This was Advocate's Harbor. Its distance from Cape Chignecto is greater + than that stated in the text. Further on, Champlain calls it two + leagues, which is nearly correct. Its latitude is about 45° 20'. By + comparing the Admiralty charts and Champlain's map of this harbor, it + will be seen that important changes have taken place since 1604. The + tongue of land extending in a south-easterly direction, covered with + trees and shrubbery, which Champlain calls a sand-bank, has entirely + disappeared. The ordinary tides rise here from thirty-three to + thirty-nine feet, and on a sandy shore could hardly fail to produce + important changes. + +68. According to the Abbé Laverdière, the lower part of the Gulf was + sometimes called the Bay of St. Lawrence. + +69. They had just crossed the Bay of Mines. From the place where they + crossed it to its head it is not far from fifteen leagues, and it is + about the same distance to Port Royal, from which he may here estimate + the distance inland. + +70. Read June.--_Vide antea_, note 53. + +71. Chignecto Bay. Charlevoix has Chignitou _ou Beau Bassin_. On De Laet's + Map of 1633, on Jacob von Meur's of 1673, and Homenn's of 1729, we have + B. de Gennes. The Cape of Two Bays was Cape Chignecto. + +72. The rivers are the Cumberland Basin with its tributaries coming from + the east, and the Petitcoudiac (_petit_ and _coude_, little elbow, from + the angle formed by the river at Moncton, called the Bend), which flows + into Shepody Bay coming from the north or the direction of Gaspé. + Champlain mentions all these particulars, probably as answering to the + description given to them by M. Prevert of the place where copper mines + could be found. + +73. Quaco River, at the mouth of which the water is shallow: the low cape + extending out into the sea is that on which Quaco Light now stands, + which reaches out quarter of a mile, and is comparatively low. The + shore from Goose River, near where they made the coast, is very high, + measuring at different points 783, 735, 650, 400, 300, 500, and 380 + feet, while the "low cape" is only 250 feet, and near it on the west is + an elevation of 400 feet. It would be properly represented as "rather a + low cape" in contradistinction to the neighboring coast. Iron and + manganese are found here, and the latter has been mined to some extent, + but is now discontinued, as the expense is too great for the present + times. + +74. This mountain is an elevation, eight or ten miles inland from Quaco, + which may be seen by vessels coasting along from St. Martin's Head to + St. John: it is indicated on the charts as Mt. Theobald, and bears a + striking resemblance, as Champlain suggests, to the _chapeau de + Cardinal_. + +75. McCoy's Head, four leagues west of Quaco: the "cove" may be that on the + east into which Gardner's Creek flows, or that on the west at the mouth + of Emmerson's Creek. + +76. The Bay of St. John, which is four leagues south-west of McCoy's + Head. The islands mentioned are Partridge Island at the mouth of the + harbor, and two smaller ones farther west, one Meogenes, and the other + Shag rock or some unimportant islet in its vicinity. The rock mentioned + by Champlain is that on which Spit Beacon Light now stands. + +77. The festival of St. John the Baptist occurs on the 24th of June; and, + arriving on that day, they gave the name of St. John to the river, + which has been appropriately given also to the city at its mouth, now + the metropolis of the province of New Brunswick. + +78. Champlain was under a missapprehension about passing the fall at the + mouth of the St. John at high tide. It can in fact only be passed at + about half tide. The waters of the river at low tide are about twelve + feet higher than the waters of the sea. At high tide, the waters of the + sea are about five feet higher than the waters of the river. + Consequently, at low tide there is a fall outward, and at high tide + there is a fall inward, at neither of which times can the fall be + passed. The only time for passing the fall is when the waters of the + sea are on a level with the waters of the river. This occurs twice + every tide, at the level point at the flood and likewise at the ebb. + The period for passing lasts about fifteen or twenty minutes, and of + course occurs four times a day. Vessels assemble in considerable + numbers above and below to embrace the opportunity of passing at the + favoring moment. There are periods, however, when the river is swollen + by rains and melting snow, at which the tides do not rise as high as + the river, and consequently there is a constant fall outward, and + vessels cannot pass until the high water subsides. + +79. They ascended the river only a short distance into the large bay just + above the falls, near which are the three islands mentioned in the + text. + +80. The distance from the mouth of the river St. John to Tadoussac in a + direct line is about sixty-five leagues. But by the winding course of + the St. John it would be very much greater. + +81. Champlain's latitude is inexact. St. John's Harbor is 45° 16'. + +82. _Margos_, magpies. The four islands which Champlain named the Magpies + are now called the Wolves, and are near the mouth of Passamaquoddy + Bay. Charlevoix has _Oiseaux_, the Birds. + +83. Manan. Known as the Grand Manan in contradistinction to the Petit + Manan, a small island still further west. It is about fourteen or + fifteen miles long, and about six in its greatest width. On the south + and eastern side are Long Island, Great Duck, Ross, Cheyne, and White + Head Islands, among which good harborage may be found. The name, as + appears in the text, is of Indian origin. It is Sometimes Spelled + Menarse, but that in the text prevails. + +84. The St. Croix River, sometimes called the Scoudic. + +85. Passsmaquoddy Bay. On Gastaldo's map of 1550 called Angoulesme. On + Rouge's "Atlas Ameriquain," 1778, it is written Passamacadie. + +86. The Holy Cross, _Saincte Croix_, This name was suggested by the + circumstance that, a few miles above the island, two streams flow into + the main channel of the river at the same place, one from the east and + the other from the west, while a bay makes up between them, presenting + the appearance of a cross. + + "Et d'autant qu'à deux lieues au dessus il y a des ruisseaux qui + viennent comme en croix de décharger dans ce large bras de mer, cette + île de la retraite des François fut appelée SAINCTE CROIX."--_His. + Nouvelle France_ par Lescarbot, Paris. 1612, Qvat Liv. pp. 461, 462. + + It is now called De Monts's Island. It has been called Dochet's Island + and Neutral Island, but there is great appropriateness in calling it + after its first occupant and proprietor, and in honor of him it has + been so named with suitable ceremonies.--_Vide Godfrey's Centennial + Discourse_, Bangor, 1870, p. 20. The United States maintain a light + upon the island, which is seventy-one feet above the level of the sea, + and is visible twelve nautical miles. The island itself is moderately + high, and in the widest part is one hundred and eighty paces or about + five hundred and forty feet. The area is probably not more than six or + seven acres, although it has been estimated at twice that. It may have + been diminished in some slight degree since the time of Champlain by + the action of the waves, but probably very little. On the southern + extremity of the island where De Monts placed his cannon, about + twenty-five years ago a workman in excavating threw out five small + cannon-balls, one of which was obtained by Peter E. Vose, Esq., of + Dennysville, Me., who then resided near the island, and was conversant + with all the circumstances of the discovery. They were about a foot and + a half below the surface, and the workman was excavating for another + purpose, and knew nothing of the history of the island. At our + solicitation, the ball belonging to Mr. Vose has recently been + presented to the New England Historic Genealogical Society, of which he + is a member. It is iron, perfectly round, two and a quarter inches in + diameter, and weighs 22 oz. avoirdupois. There can be no reasonable + doubt that these balls are relics of the little French colony of 1604, + and probably the only memorial of the kind now in existence. + +87. The description in the text of the environs of the Island of St. Croix + is entirely accurate. Some distance above, and in view from the island, + is the fork, or Divide, as it is called. Here is a meeting of the + waters of Warwig Creek from the east, Oak Bay from the north, and the + river of the Etechemins, now called the St. Croix, from the west. These + are the three rivers mentioned by Champlain, Oak Bay being considered + as one of them, in which may be seen the two islands mentioned in the + text, one high and the other low. A little above Calais is the + waterfall, around which the Indians carried their bark canoes, when on + their journey up the river through the Scoudic lakes, from which by + land they reached the river St. John on the east, or, on the west, + passing through the Mettawamkeag, they reached the Norumbegue, or + Penobscot River. + +88. The latitude of the Island of St. Croix is 45° 7' 43". + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +SIEUR DE MONTS, FINDING NO OTHER PLACE BETTER ADAPTED FOR A PERMANENT +SETTLEMENT THAN THE ISLAND OF ST. CROIX, FORTIFIES IT AND BUILDS +DWELLINGS.--RETURN OF THE VESSELS TO FRANCE, AND OF RALLEAU, SECRETARY OF +SIEUR DE MONTS, FOR THE SAKE OF ARRANGING SOME BUSINESS AFFAIRS. + + +Not finding any more suitable place than this island, we commenced making a +barricade on a little islet a short distance from the main island, which +served as a station for placing our cannon. All worked so energetically +that in a little while it was put in a state of defence, although the +mosquitoes (which are little flies) annoyed us excessively in our work. +For there were several of our men whose faces were so swollen by their +bites that they could scarcely see. The barricade being finished, Sieur de +Monts sent his barque to notify the rest of our party, who were with our +vessel in the bay of St. Mary, to come to St. Croix. This was promptly +done, and while awaiting them we spent our time very pleasantly. + +Some days after, our vessels having arrived and anchored, all disembarked. +Then, without losing time, Sieur de Monts proceeded to employ the workmen +in building houses for our abode, and allowed me to determine the +arrangement of our settlement. After Sieur de Monts had determined the +place for the storehouse, which is nine fathoms long, three wide, and +twelve feet high, he adopted the plan for his own house, which he had +promptly built by good workmen, and then assigned to each one his location. +Straightway, the men began to gather together by fives and sixes, each +according to his desire. Then all set to work to clear up the island, to go +to the woods, to make the frame work, to carry earth and other things +necessary for the buildings. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S DESCRIPTION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +HABITATION DE L'ISLE STE. CROIX. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. Dwelling of Sieur de Monts. +_B_. Public building where we spent our time when it rained. +_C_. The storehouse. +_D_. Dwelling of the guard. +_E_. The blacksmith shop. +_F_. Dwelling of the carpenters. +_G_. The well. +_H_. The oven where the bread was made. +_I_. Kitchen. +_L_. Gardens. +_M_. Other gardens. +_N_. Place in the centre where a tree stands. +_O_. Palisade. +_P_. Dwellings of the Sieurs d'Orville, Champlain, and Champdoré. +_Q_. Dwelling of Sieur Boulay, and other artisans. +_R_. Dwelling where the Sieurs de Genestou, Sourin, and other artisans + lived. +_T_. Dwelling of the Sieurs de Beaumont, la Motte Bourioli, and Fougeray. +_V_. Dwelling of our curate. +_X_. Other gardens. +_Y_. The river surrounding the island. + + * * * * * + +While we were building our houses, Sieur de Monts despatched Captain +Fouques in the vessel of Rossignol, [89] to find Pont Gravé at Canseau, in +order to obtain for our settlement what supplies remained. + +Some time after he had set out, there arrived a small barque of eight tons, +in which was Du Glas of Honfleur, pilot of Pont Grave's vessel, bringing +the Basque ship-masters, who had been captured by the above Pont Gravé [90] +while engaged in the fur-trade, as we have stated. Sieur de Monts received +them civilly, and sent them back by the above Du Glas to Pont Gravé, with +orders for him to take the vessels he had captured to Rochelle, in order +that justice might be done. Meanwhile, work on the houses went on +vigorously and without cessation; the carpenters engaged on the storehouse +and dwelling of Sieur de Monts, and the others each on his own house, as I +was on mine, which I built with the assistance of some servants belonging +to Sieur d'Orville and myself. It was forthwith completed, and Sieur de +Monts lodged in it until his own was finished. An oven was also made, and a +handmill for grinding our wheat, the working of which involved much trouble +and labor to the most of us, since it was a toilsome operation. Some +gardens were afterwards laid out, on the main land as well as on the +island. Here many kinds of seeds were planted, which flourished very well +on the main land, but not on the island, since there was only sand here, +and the whole were burned up when the sun shone, although special pains +were taken to water them. + +Some days after, Sieur de Monts determined to ascertain where the mine of +pure copper was which we had searched for so much. With this object in +view, he despatched me together with a savage named Messamoüet, who +asserted that he knew the place well. I set out in a small barque of five +or six tons, with nine sailors. Some eight leagues from the island, towards +the river St. John, we found a mine of copper which was not pure, yet good +according to the report of the miner, who said that it would yield eighteen +per cent. Farther on we found others inferior to this. When we reached the +place where we supposed that was which we were hunting for, the savage +could not find it, so that it was necessary to come back, leaving the +search for another time. + +Upon my return from this trip. Sieur de Monts resolved to send his vessels +back to France, and also Sieur de Poutrincourt, who had come only for his +pleasure, and to explore countries and places suitable for a colony, which +he desired to found; for which reason he asked Sieur de Monts for Port +Royal, which he gave him in accordance with the power and directions he had +received from the king. [91] He sent back also Ralleau, his secretary, to +arrange some matters concerning the voyage. They set out from the Island of +St. Croix the last day of August, 1604. + +ENDNOTES: + +89. This was the vessel taken from Captain Rossignol and confiscated.-- + _Vide antea_, pp. 10, 12; also note 26. + +90. Champlain and others often write only Pont for Pont Gravé. Lescarbot + says Gravé was his surname.--_Vide Histoire de la Nou. Fran_., Paris, + 1612, Qvat. Liv. p. 501. To prevent any confusion, we write it Pont + Gravé in all cases. + +91. De Monts's charter provided for the distribution of lands to colonists. + This gift to De Poutrincourt was confirmed afterwards by the king. We + may here remark that there is the usual discrepancy in the orthography + of this name. Lescarbot, De Laet, and Charlevoix write Poutrincourt. In + his Latin epitaph, _vide Murdoch's Nova Scotia_, Vol. I. p. 59, it is + Potrincurtius, while Champlain has Poitrincourt. In Poutrincourt's + letter to the Roman Pontiff, Paul V., written in Latin, he says, _Ego + Johannes de Biencour, vulgo De Povtrincovr a vitae religionis amator et + attestor perpetuus_, etc. This must be conclusive for Poutrincourt as + the proper orthography.--_Vide His. Nov. Fra._, par Lescarbot, Paris, + 1612, p. 612. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +OF THE COAST, INHABITANTS, AND RIVER OF NORUMBEGUE, AND OF ALL THAT +OCCURRED DURING THE EXPLORATION OF THE LATTER. + + +After the departure of the vessels, Sieur de Monts, without losing time, +decided to send persons to make discoveries along the coast of Norumbegue; +and he intrusted me with this work, which I found very agreeable. + +In order to execute this commission, I set out from St. Croix on the 2d of +September with a patache of seventeen or eighteen tons, twelve sailors, and +two savages, to serve us as guides to the places with which they were +acquainted. The same day we found the vessels where Sieur de Poutrincourt +was, which were anchored at the mouth of the river St. Croix in consequence +of bad weather, which place we could not leave before the 5th of the month. +Having gone two or three leagues seaward, so dense a fog arose that we at +once lost sight of their vessels. Continuing our course along the coast, we +made the same day some twenty-five leagues, and passed by a large number of +islands, banks, reefs, and rocks, which in places extend more than four +leagues out to Sea. We called the islands the Ranges, most of which are +covered with pines, firs, and other trees of an inferior sort. Among these +islands are many fine harbors, but undesirable for a permanent settlement. +The same day we passed also near to an island about four or five leagues +long, in the neighborhood of which we just escaped being lost on a little +rock on a level with the water, which made an opening in our barque near +the keel. From this island to the main land on the north, the distance is +less than a hundred paces. It is very high, and notched in places, so that +there is the appearance to one at sea, as of seven or eight mountains +extending along near each other. The summit of the most of them is +destitute of trees, as there are only rocks on them. The woods consist of +pines, firs, and birches only. I named it Isle des Monts Déserts.[92] The +latitude is 44° 30'. + +The next day, the 6th of the month, we sailed two leagues, and perceived a +smoke in a cove at the foot of the mountains above mentioned. We saw two +canoes rowed by savages, which came within musket range to observe us. I +sent our two Savages in a boat to assure them of our friendship. Their fear +of us made them turn back. On the morning of the next day, they came +alongside of our barque and talked with our savages. I ordered some +biscuit, tobacco, and other trifles to be given them. These savages had +come beaver-hunting and to catch fish, some of which they gave us. Having +made an alliance with them, they guided us to their river of Pentegoüet, +[93] so called by them, where they told us was their captain, named +Bessabez, chief of this river. I think this river is that which several +pilots and historians call Norumbegue, [94] and which most have described +as large and extensive, with very many islands, its mouth being in latitude +43°, 43° 30', according to others in 44°, more or less. With regard to the +deflection, I have neither read, nor heard any one say any thing. It is +related also that there is a large, thickly settled town of savages, who +are adroit and skillful, and who have cotton yarn. I am confident that most +of those who mention it have not seen it, and speak of it because they have +heard persons say so, who knew no more about it than they themselves. I am +ready to believe that some may have seen the mouth of it, because there are +in reality many islands, and it is, as they say, in latitude 44° at its +entrance. But that any one has ever entered it there is no evidence, for +then they would have described it in another manner, in order to relieve +the minds of many of this doubt. + +I will accordingly relate truly what I explored and saw, from the beginning +as far as I went. + +In the first place, there are at its entrance several islands distant ten +or twelve leagues from the main land, which are in latitude 44°, and 18° +40' of the deflection of the magnetic needle. The Isle des Monts Déserts +forms one of the extremities of the mouth, on the east; the other is low +land, called by the savages Bedabedec, [95] to the west of the former, the +two being distant from each other nine or ten leagues. Almost midway +between these, out in the ocean, there is another island very high and +conspicuous, which on this account I have named Isle Haute. [96] All around +there is a vast number of varying extent and breadth, but the largest is +that of the Monts Déserts. Fishing as also hunting are very good here; the +fish are of various kinds. Some two or three leagues from the point of +Bedabedec, as you coast northward along the main land which extends up this +river, there are very high elevations of land, which in fair weather are +seen twelve or fifteen leagues out at Sea. [97] Passing to the South of the +Isle Haute, and coasting along the same for a quarter of a league, where +there are some reefs out of water, and heading to the west until you open +all the mountains northward of this island, you can be sure that, by +keeping in sight the eight or nine peaks of the Monts Déserts and +Bedabedec, you will cross the river Norumbegue; and in order to enter it +you must keep to the north, that is, towards the highest mountains of +Bedabedec, where you will see no islands before you, and can enter, sure of +having water enough, although you see a great many breakers, islands, and +rocks to the east and west of you. For greater security, one should keep +the sounding lead in hand. And my observations lead me to conclude that one +cannot enter this river in any other place except in small vessels or +shallops. For, as I stated above, there are numerous islands, rocks, +shoals, banks, and breakers on all sides, so that it is marvellous to +behold. + +Now to resume our course: as one enters the river, there are beautiful +islands, which are very pleasant and contain fine meadows. We proceeded to +a place to which the savages guided us, where the river is not more than an +eighth of a league broad, and at a distance of some two hundred paces from +the western shore there is a rock on a level with the water, of a dangerous +character.[98] From here to the Isle Haute, it is fifteen leagues. From +this narrow place, where there is the least breadth that we had found, +after sailing some seven or eight leagues, we came to a little river near +which it was necessary to anchor, as we saw before us a great many rocks +which are uncovered at low tide, and since also, if we had desired to sail +farther, we could have gone scarcely half a league, in consequence of a +fall of water there coming down a slope of seven or eight feet, which I saw +as I went there in a canoe with our savages; and we found only water enough +for a canoe. But excepting the fall, which is some two hundred paces broad, +the river is beautiful, and unobstructed up to the place where we had +anchored. I landed to view the country, and, going on a hunting excursion, +found it very pleasant so far as I went. The oaks here appear as if they +were planted for ornament. I saw only a few firs, but numerous pines on one +side of the river; on the other only oaks, and some copse wood which +extends far into the interior.[99] And I will state that from the entrance +to where we went, about twenty-five leagues, we saw no town, nor village, +nor the appearance of there having been one, but one or two cabins of the +savages without inhabitants. These were made in the same way as those of +the Souriquois, being covered with the bark of trees. So far as we could +judge, the Savages on this river are few in number, and are called +Etechemins. Moreover, they only come to the islands, and that only during +some months in summer for fish and game, of which there is a great +quantity. They are a people who have no fixed abode, so far as I could +observe and learn from them. For they spend the winter now in one place and +now in another, according as they find the best hunting, by which they live +when urged by their daily needs, without laying up any thing for times of +scarcity, which are sometimes severe. + +Now this river must of necessity be the Norumbegue; for, having coasted +along past it as far as the 41° of latitude, we have found no other on the +parallel above mentioned, except that of the Quinibequy, which is almost in +the same latitude, but not of great extent. Moreover, there cannot be in +any other place a river extending far into the interior of the country, +since the great river St. Lawrence washes the coast of La Cadie and +Norumbegue, and the distance from one to the other by land is not more than +forty-five leagues, or sixty at the widest point, as can be seen on my +geographical map. + +Now I will drop this discussion to return to the savages who had conducted +me to the falls of the river Norumbegue, who went to notify Bessabez, their +chief, and other savages, who in turn proceeded to another little river to +inform their own, named Cabahis, and give him notice of our arrival. + +The 16th of the month there came to us some thirty savages on assurances +given them by those who had served us as guides. There came also to us the +same day the above named Bessabez with six canoes. As soon as the savages +who were on land saw him coming, they all began to sing, dance, and jump, +until he had landed. Afterwards, they all seated themselves in a circle on +the ground, as is their custom, when they wish to celebrate a festivity, or +an harangue is to be made. Cabahis, the other chief, arrived also a little +later with twenty or thirty of his companions, who withdrew one side and +enjoyed greatly seeing us, as it was the first time they had seen +Christians. A little while after, I went on shore with two of my companions +and two of our savages who served as interpreters. I directed the men in +our barque to approach near the savages, and hold their arms in readiness +to do their duty in case they noticed any movement of these people against +us. Bessabez, seeing us on land, bade us sit down, and began to smoke with +his companions, as they usually do before an address. They presented us +with venison and game. + +I directed our interpreter to say to our savages that they should cause +Bessabez, Cabahis, and their companions to understand that Sieur de Monts +had sent me to them to see them, and also their country, and that he +desired to preserve friendship with them and to reconcile them with their +enemies, the Souriquois and Canadians, and moreover that he desired to +inhabit their country and show them how to cultivate it, in order that they +might not continue to lead so miserable a life as they were doing, and some +other words on the same subject. This our savages interpreted to them, at +which they signified their great satisfaction, saying that no greater good +could come to them than to have our friendship, and that they desired to +live in peace with their enemies, and that we should dwell in their land, +in order that they might in future more than ever before engage in hunting +beavers, and give us a part of them in return for our providing them with +things which they wanted. After he had finished his discourse, I presented +them with hatchets, paternosters, caps, knives, and other little +knick-knacks, when we separated from each other. All the rest of this day +and the following night, until break of day, they did nothing but dance, +sing, and make merry, after which we traded for a certain number of +beavers. Then each party returned, Bessabez with his companions on the one +side, and we on the other, highly pleased at having made the acquaintance +of this people. + +The 17th of the month I took the altitude, [100] and found the latitude 45° +25'. This done, we set out for another river called Quinibequy, distant +from this place thirty-five leagues, and nearly twenty from Bedabedec. This +nation of savages of Quinibequy are called Etechemins, as well as those of +Norumbegue. + +The 18th of the month we passed near a small river where Cabahis was, who +came with us in our barque some twelve leagues; and having asked him whence +came the river Norumbegue, he told me that it passes the fall which I +mentioned above, and that one journeying some distance on it enters a lake +by way of which they come to the river of St. Croix, by going some distance +over land, and then entering the river of the Etechemins. Moreover, another +river enters the lake, along which they proceed some days, and afterwards +enter another lake and pass through the midst of it. Reaching the end of +it, they make again a land journey of some distance, and then enter another +little river, which has its mouth a league from Quebec, which is on the +great river St. Lawrence. [101] All these people of Norumbegue are very +swarthy, dressed in beaver-skins and other furs, like the Canadian and +Souriquois savages, and they have the same mode of life. + +The 20th of the month we sailed along the western coast, and passed the +mountains of Bedabedec, [102] when we anchored. The same day we explored +the entrance to the river, where large vessels can approach; but there are +inside some reefs, to avoid which one must advance with sounding lead in +hand. Our Savages left us, as they did not wish to go to Quinibequy, for +the savages of that place are great enemies to them. We sailed some eight +leagues along the western coast to an island [103] ten leagues distant from +Quinibequy, where we were obliged to put in on account of bad weather and +contrary wind. At one point in our course, we passed a large number of +islands and breakers extending some leagues out to sea, and very dangerous. +And in view of the bad weather, which was so unfavorable to us, we did not +sail more than three or four leagues farther. All these islands and coasts +are covered with extensive woods, of the same sort as that which I have +reported above as existing on the other coasts. And in consideration of the +small quantity of provisions which we had, we resolved to return to our +settlement and wait until the following year, when we hoped to return and +explore more extensively. We accordingly set out on our return on the 23d +of September, and arrived at our settlement on the 2d of October following. + +The above is an exact statement of all that I have observed respecting not +only the coasts and people, but also the river of Norumbegue; and there are +none of the marvels there which some persons have described. I am of +opinion that this region is as disagreeable in winter as that of our +settlement, in which we were greatly deceived. [104] + +ENDNOTES: + +92. The natives called this island Pemetiq. _Isle que les Saunages + appellent Pemetiq.--Vide Relation de la Nouvelle-France_, par F. Biard. + 1616. Relations des Jésuites, Quebec ed. 1858. p. 44. When the attempt + was made in 1613 to plant a colony there on the Marchioness de + Guercheville, the settlement was named St. Sauveur. This island was + also by the English called Mount Mansell. But the name given to it by + Champlain has prevailed, and still adheres to it. + + The description here given of the barrenness of the island clearly + suggests the origin of the name. Desert should therefore be pronounced + with the accent on the first syllable. The latitude of the most + northern limit of the island is 44° 24'. + +93. Penobscot. The name of this river has been variously written Pentagoet, + Pentagwet, Pemptegoet, Pentagovett, Penobskeag, Penaubsket, and in + various other ways. The English began early to write it Penobscot. It + is a word of Indian origin, and different meanings have been assigned + to it by those who have undertaken to interpret the language from which + it is derived. + +94. The Abbé Laverdière is of the opinion that the river Norumbegue was + identical with the Bay of Fundy. His only authority is Jean Alfonse, + the chief pilot of Roberval in 1541-42. Alfonse says; "Beyond the cape + of Noroveregue descends the river of the said Noroveregue, which is + about twenty-five leagues from the cape. The said river is more than + forty leagues broad at its mouth, and extends this width inward well + thirty or forty leagues, and is all full of islands which enter ten or + twelve leagues into the sea, and it is very dangerous with rocks and + reefs." If the cape of Norumbegue is the present Cape Sable, as it is + supposed to be, by coasting along the shores of Nova Scotia from that + cape in a north-westerly direction a little more than twenty leagues, + we shall reach St. Mary's Bay, which may be regarded as the beginning + of the Bay of Fundy, and from that point in a straight line to the + mouth of the Penobscot the distance is more than forty leagues, which + was the breadth of the Norumbegue at its mouth, according to the + statement of Alfonse. The Abbé Laverdière is not quite correct in + saying that the river Norumbegue is the same as the Bay of Fundy. It + includes, according to Alfonse, who is not altogether consistent with + himself, not only the Bay of Fundy, but likewise the Penobscot River + and the bay of the same name, with its numerous islands. Alfonse left a + drawing or map of this region in his Cosmography, which Laverdière had + not probably seen, on which the Bay of Fundy and the Penobscot are + correctly laid down, and the latter is designated the "_Rivière de + Norvebergue_." It is therefore obvious, if this map can be relied upon, + that the river of Norumbegue was identical, not with the Bay of Fundy, + but with the Penobscot, in the opinion of Alfonse, in common with the + "plusieurs pilottes et historiens" referred to by Champlain.--_Vide + copy of the Chart from the MS. Cosmography of Juan Alfonse_ in + Bibliothèque Nationale, Paris, in Mr. Murphy's Voyage of Verrazzano, + New York, 1875. + +95. An indefinite region about Rockland and Camden, on the western bank of + the Penobscot near its mouth, appears to have been the domain of the + Indian chief, Bessabez, and was denominated Bedabedec. The Camden Hills + were called the mountains of Bedabedec, and Owl's Head was called + Bedabedec Point. + +96. Isle Haute, _high island_, which name it still retains. Champlain wrote + it on his map, 1632, "Isle Haulte." It has been anglicized by some into + Isle Holt. It is nearly six miles long, and has an average width of + over two miles, and is the highest land in its vicinity, reaching at + its highest point four hundred feet above the level of the sea. + +97. Camden Hills or Mountains. They are five or six in number, from 900 to + 1,500 feet high, and maybe seen, it is said, twenty leagues at sea. The + more prominent are Mt. Batty, Mt. Pleasant, and Mt. Hosmer, or Ragged + Mountain. They are Sometimes called the Megunticook Range. Colonel + Benjamin Church denominates them "Mathebestuck's Hills,"--_Vide + Church's History of King Philip's War_, Newport, 1772, p. 143. Captain + John Smith calls them the mountains of Penobscot, "against whose feet + doth beat the sea." which, he adds, "you may well see sixteen or + eighteen leagues from their situation." + +98. This narrow place in the river is just above Castine, where Cape + Jellison stretches out towards the east, at the head of the bay, and at + the mouth of the river. At the extremity of the cape is Fort Point, so + called from Fort Pownall, erected there in 1759, a step rocky elevation + of about eighty feet in height. Before the erection of the fort by + Governor Pownall, it was called Wafaumkeag Point.--_Vide Pownall's + Journal_, Col. Me. His. Soc., Vol. V. p. 385. The "rock" alluded to by + Champlain is Fort Point Ledge, bare at half tide, south-east by east + from the Point, and distant over half a mile. Champlain's distances + here are somewhat overestimated. + +99. The terminus of this exploration of the Penobscot was near the present + site of the city of Bangor. The small river near the mouth of which + they anchored was the Kenduskeag. The falls which Champlain visited + with the Indians in a canoe are those a short distance above the + city. The sentence, a few lines back, beginning "But excepting this + fall" is complicated, and not quite logical, but the author evidently + means to describe the river from its mouth to the place of their + anchorage at Bangor. + +100. The interview with the Indians on the 16th, and the taking of the + altitude on the 17th, must have occurred before the party left their + anchorage at Bangor with the purpose, but which they did not + accomplish that year, of visiting the Kennebec. This may be inferred + from Champlain's statement that the Kennebec was thirty-five leagues + distant from the place where they then were, and nearly twenty leagues + distant from Bedabedec. Consequently, they were fifteen leagues above + Bedabedec, which was situated near the mouth of the river. The + latitude, which they obtained from their observations, was far from + correct: it should be 44° 46'. + +101. The Indian chief Cabahis here points out two trails, the one leading + to the French habitation just established on the Island of St. Croix, + the other to Quebec; by the former, passing up the Penobscot from the + present site of Bangor, entering the Matawamkeag, keeping to the east + in their light bark canoes to Lake Boscanhegan, and from there passing + by land to the stream then known as the river of the Etechemins, now + called the Scoudic or St. Croix. The expression "by which they come to + the river of St. Croix" is explanatory: it has no reference to the + name of the river, but means simply that the trail leads to the river + in which was the island of St. Croix. This river had not then been + named St. Croix, but had been called by them the river of the + Etechemins.--_Vide antea_, p. 31. + + The other trail led up the north branch of the Penobscot, passing + through Lake Pemadumcook, and then on through Lake Chefuncook, finally + reaching the source of this stream which is near that of the + Chaudière, which latter flows into the St. Lawrence, near Quebec. It + would seem from the text that Champlain supposed that the Penobscot + flowed from a lake into which streams flowed from both the objective + points, viz. St. Croix and Quebec: but this was a mistake not at all + unnatural, as he had never been over the ground, and obtained his + information from the Indians, whose language he imperfectly + understood. + +102. Bedabedec is an Indian word, signifying cape of the waters, and was + plainly the point known as Owl's Head. It gave name to the Camden + Mountains also. _Vide antea_, note 95. + +103. Mosquito and Metinic Islands are each about ten leagues east of the + Kennebec. As the party went but four leagues further, the voyage must + have terminated in Muscongus Bay. + +104. An idle story had been circulated, and even found a place on the pages + of sober history, that on the Penobscot, or Norumbegue, as it was then + called, there existed a fair town, a populous city, with the + accessories of luxury and wealth. Champlain here takes pains to show, + in the fullest manner, that this story was a baseless dream of fancy, + and utterly without foundation. Of it Lescarbot naïvely says, "If this + beautiful town hath ever existed in nature, I would fain know who hath + pulled it down, for there are now only a few scattered wigwams made of + poles covered with the bark of trees and the skins of wild beasts." + There is no evidence, and no probability, that this river had been + navigated by Europeans anterior to this exploration of Champlain. The + existence of the bay and the river had been noted long before. They + are indicated on the map of Ribero in 1529. Rio de Gamas and Rio + Grande appear on early maps as names of this river, but are soon + displaced for Norumbega, a name which was sometimes extended to a wide + range of territory on both sides of the Penobscot. On the Mappe-Monde + of 1543-47, issued by the late M. Jomard, it is denominated + Auorobagra, evidently intended for Norumbega. Thevet, who visited it, + or sailed along its mouth in 1556, speaks of it as Norumbegue. It is + alleged that the aborigines called it Agguncia. According to Jean + Alfonse, it was discovered by the Portuguese and Spaniards.--_Vide + His. de la N. France_, par M. Lescarbot, Paris, 1612, Qvat. Liv. + p. 495. The orthography of this name is various among early writers, + but Norumbegue is adopted by the most approved modern authors. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +OF THE MAL DE LA TERRE, A VERY DESPERATE MALADY.--HOW THE SAVAGES, MEN AND +WOMEN, SPEND THEIR TIME IN WINTER.--AND ALL THAT OCCURRED AT THE SETTLEMENT +WHILE WE WERE PASSING THE WINTER. + +When we arrived at the Island of St. Croix, each one had finished his place +of abode. Winter came upon us sooner than we expected, and prevented us +from doing many things which we had proposed. Nevertheless, Sieur de Monts +did not fail to have some gardens made on the island. Many began to clear +up the ground, each his own. I also did so with mine, which was very large, +where I planted a quantity of foods, as also did the others who had any, +and they came up very well. But since the island was all sandy, every thing +dried up almost as soon as the Sun shone upon it, and we had no water for +irrigation except from the rain, which was infrequent. + +Sieur de Monts caused also clearings to be made on the main land for making +gardens, and at the falls three leagues from our Settlement he had work +done and some wheat sown, which came up very well and ripened. Around our +habitation there is, at low tide, a large number of shell-fish, such as +cockles, muscles, sea-urchins, and Sea-snails, which were very acceptable +to all. + +The snows began on the 6th of October. On the 3d of December, we saw ice +pass which came from some frozen river. The cold was sharp, more severe +than in France, and of much longer duration; and it scarcely rained at all +the entire winter. I suppose that is owing to the north and north-west +winds passing over high mountains always covered with snow. The latter was +from three to four feet deep up to the end of the month of April; lasting +much longer, I suppose, than it would if the country were cultivated. + +During the winter, many of our company were attacked by a certain malady +called the _mal de la terre_; otherwise scurvy, as I have since heard from +learned men. There were produced, in the mouths of those who had it, great +pieces of superfluous and drivelling flesh (causing extensive +putrefaction), which got the upper hand to such an extent that scarcely +anything but liquid could be taken. Their teeth became very loose, and +could be pulled out with the fingers without its causing them pain. The +superfluous flesh was often cut out, which caused them to eject much blood +through the mouth. Afterwards, a violent pain seized their arms and legs, +which remained swollen and very hard, all spotted as if with flea-bites; +and they could not walk on account of the contraction of the muscles, so +that they were almost without strength, and suffered intolerable pains. +They experienced pain also in the loins, stomach, and bowels, had a very +bad cough, and short breath. In a word, they were in such a condition that +the majority of them could not rise nor move, and could not even be raised +up on their feet without falling down in a swoon. So that out of +seventy-nine, who composed our party, thirty-five died, and more than +twenty were on the point of death. The majority of those who remained well +also complained of slight pains and short breath. We were unable to find +any remedy for these maladies. A _post mortem_ examination of several was +made to investigate the cause of their disease. + +In the case of many, the interior parts were found mortified such as the +lungs, which were so changed that no natural fluid could be perceived in +them. The spleen was serous and swollen. The liver was _legueux?_ and +spotted, without its natural color. The _vena cava_, superior and inferior, +was filled with thick coagulated and black blood. The gall was tainted. +Nevertheless, many arteries, in the middle as well as lower bowels, were +found in very good condition. In the case of some, incisions with a razor +were made on the thighs where they had purple spots, whence there issued a +very black clotted blood. This is what was observed on the bodies of those +infected with this malady.[105] + +Our surgeons could not help suffering themselves in the same manner as the +rest. Those who continued sick were healed by spring, which commences in +this country in May.[106] That led us to believe that the change of season +restored their health rather than the remedies prescribed. + +During this winter, all our liquors froze, except the Spanish wine. Cider +was dispensed by the pound. The cause of this loss was that there were no +cellars to our storehouse, and that the air which entered by the cracks was +sharper than that outside. We were obliged to use very bad water, and drink +melted snow, as there were no springs nor brooks; for it was not possible +to go to the main land in consequence of the great pieces of ice drifted by +the tide, which varies three fathoms between low and high water. Work on +the hand-mill was very fatiguing, since the most of us, having slept +poorly, and suffering from insufficiency of fuel, which we could not obtain +on account of the ice, had scarcely any strength, and also because we ate +only salt meat and vegetables during the winter, which produce bad blood. +The latter circumstance was, in my opinion, a partial cause of these +dreadful maladies. All this produced discontent in Sieur de Monts and +others of the settlement. + +It would be very difficult to ascertain the character of this region +without spending a winter in it; for, on arriving here in summer, every +thing is very agreeable, in consequence of the woods, fine country, and the +many varieties of good fish which are found there. There are six months of +winter in this country. + +The savages who dwell here are few in number. During the winter, in the +deepest snows, they hunt elks and other animals, on which they live most of +the time. And, unless the snow is deep, they scarcely get rewarded for +their pains, since they cannot capture any thing except by a very great +effort, which is the reason for their enduring and suffering much. When +they do not hunt, they live on a shell-fish, called the cockle. They clothe +themselves in winter with good furs of beaver and elk. The women make all +the garments, but not so exactly but that you can see the flesh under the +arm-pits, because they have not ingenuity enough to fit them better. When +they go a hunting, they use a kind of show-shoe twice as large as those +hereabouts, which they attach to the soles of their feet, and walk thus +over the show without sinking in, the women and children as well as the +men. They search for the track of animals, which, having found, they +follow until they get sight of the creature, when they shoot at it with +their bows, or kill it by means of daggers attached to the end of a short +pike, which is very easily done, as the animals cannot walk on the snow +without sinking in. Then the women and children come up, erect a hut, and +they give themselves to feasting. Afterwards, they return in search of +other animals, and thus they pass the winter. In the month of March +following, some savages came and gave us a portion of their game in +exchange for bread and other things which we gave them. This is the mode of +life in winter of these people, which seems to me a very miserable one. + +We looked for our vessels at the end of April; but, as this passed without +their arriving, all began to have an ill-boding, fearing that some accident +had befallen them. For this reason, on the 15th of May, Sieur de Monts +decided to have a barque of fifteen tons and another of seven fitted up, so +that we might go at the end of the month of June to Gaspé in quest of +vessels in which to return to France, in case our own should not meanwhile +arrive. But God helped us better than we hoped; for, on the 15th of June +ensuing, while on guard about 11 o'clock at night, Pont Gravé, captain of +one of the vessels of Sieur de Monts, arriving in a shallop, informed us +that his ship was anchored six leagues from our settlement, and he was +welcomed amid the great joy of all. + +The next day the vessel arrived, and anchored near our habitation. Pont +Gravé informed us that a vessel from St. Malo, called the St. Estienne, +was following him, bringing us provisions and supplies. + +On the 17th of the month, Sieur de Monts decided to go in quest of a place +better adapted for an abode, and with a better temperature than our own. +With this view, he had the barque made ready, in which he had purposed to +go to Gaspé. + +ENDNOTES: + +105. _Mal de la terre_. Champlain had bitter experiences of this disease in + Quebec during the winter of 1608-9, when he was still ignorant of its + character; and it was not till several years later that he learned + that it was the old malady called _scurbut_, from the Sclavonic + _scorb_. Latinized into _scorbuticus_. Lescarbot speaks of this + disease as little understood in his time, but as known to Hippocrates. + He quotes Olaus Magnus, who describes it as it appeared among the + nations of the north, who called it _sorbet_, [Greek: kachexia], from + [Greek: kakos], bad, and [Greek: exis], a habit. This undoubtedly + expresses the true cause of this disease, now familiarly known as the + scurvy. It follows exposure to damp, cold, and impure atmosphere, + accompanied by the long-continued use of the same kind of food, + particularly of salt meats, with bad water. All of these conditions + existed at the Island of St. Croix. Champlain's description of the + disease is remarkably accurate. + +106. This passage might be read, "which is in this country in May:" _lequel + commence en ces pays là est en May_. As Laverdière suggests, it looks + as if Champlain wrote it first _commence_, and then, thinking that the + winter he had experienced might have been exceptional, substituted + _est_, omitting to erase _commence_, so that the sentence, as it + stands, is faulty, containing two verbs instead of one, and being + susceptible of a double sense. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +DISCOVERY OF THE COAST OF THE ALMOUCHIQUOIS AS FAR AS THE FORTY-SECOND +DEGREE OF LATITUDE, AND DETAILS OF THIS VOYAGE. + + +On the 18th of June, 1605, Sieur de Monts set out from the Island of +St. Croix with some gentlemen, twenty sailors, and a savage named +Panounias, together with his wife, whom he was unwilling to leave behind. +These we took, in order to serve us as guides to the country of the +Almouchiquois, in the hope of exploring and learning more particularly by +their aid what the character of this country was, especially since she was +a native of it. + +Coasting, along inside of Manan, an island three leagues from the main +land, we came to the Ranges on the seaward side, at one of which we +anchored, where there was a large number of crows, of which our men +captured a great many, and we called it the Isle aux Corneilles. Thence we +went to the Island of Monts Déserts, at the entrance of the river +Norumbegue, as I have before stated, and sailed five or six leagues among +many islands. Here there came to us three savages in a canoe from Bedabedec +Point, where their captain was; and, after we had had some conversation +with them, they returned the same day. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S DESCRIPTION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +QUINIBEQUY. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. The course of the river. +_B_. Two islands at the entrance of the river. +_C_. Two very dangerous rocks in the river. +_D_. Islets and rocks along the coast. +_E_. Shoals where at full tide vessels of sixty tons' burden may run + aground. +_F_. Place where the savages encamp when they come to fish. +_G_. Sandy shoals along the coast. +_H_. Pond of fresh water. +_I_. Brook where shallops can enter at half tide. +_L_. Islands to the number of four just within the mouth of the river. + + * * * * * + +On Friday, the 1st of July, we set out from one of the islands at the mouth +of the river, where there is a very good harbor for vessels of a hundred or +a hundred and fifty tons. This day we made some twenty-five leagues between +Bedabedec Point and many islands and rocks, which we observed as far as the +river Quinibequy, at the mouth of which is a very high island, which we +called the Tortoise. [107] Between the latter and the main land there are +some scattering rocks, which are covered at full tide, although the sea is +then seen to break over them. [108] Tortoise Island and the river lie +south-south-east and north-north-west. As you enter, there are two +medium-sized islands forming the entrance, one on one side, the other on +the other; [109] and some three hundred paces farther in are two rocks, +where there is no wood, but some little grass. We anchored three hundred +paces from the entrance in five and six fathoms of water. While in this +place, we were overtaken by fogs, on account of which we resolved to enter, +in order to see the upper part of the river and the savages who live there; +and we set out for this purpose on the 5th of the month. Having made some +leagues, our barque came near being lost on a rock which we grazed in +passing. [110] Further on, we met two canoes which had come to hunt birds, +which for the most part are moulting at this season, and cannot fly. We +addressed these savages by aid of our own, who went to them with his wife, +who made them understand the reason of our coming. We made friends with +them and with the savages of this river, who served us as guides. +Proceeding farther, in order to see their captain, named Manthoumermer, we +passed, after we had gone seven or eight leagues, by some islands, straits, +and brooks, which extend along the river, where we saw some fine +meadows. After we had coasted along an island [111] some four leagues in +length, they conducted us to where their chief was [112] with twenty-five +or thirty savages, who, as soon as we had anchored, came to us in a canoe, +separated a short distance from ten others, in which were those who +accompanied him. Coming near our barque, he made an harangue, in which he +expressed the pleasure it gave him to see us, and said that he desired to +form an alliance with us and to make peace with his enemies through our +mediation. He said that, on the next day, he would send to two other +captains of savages, who were in the interior, one called Marchin, and the +other Sasinou, chief of the river Quinibequy. Sieur de Monts gave them some +cakes and peas, with which they were greatly pleased. The next day they +guided us down the river another way than that by which we had come, in +order to go to a lake; and, passing by some islands, they left, each one of +them, an arrow near a cape [113] where all the savages pass, and they +believe that if they should not do this some misfortune would befall them, +according to the persuasions of the devil. They live in such superstitions, +and practise many others of the same sort. Beyond this cape we passed a +very narrow waterfall, but only with great difficulty; for, although we had +a favorable and fresh wind, and trimmed our sails to receive it as well as +possible, in order to see whether we could not pass it in that way, we were +obliged to attach a hawser to some trees on shore and all pull on it. In +this way, by means of our arms together with the help of the wind, which +was favorable to us, we succeeded in passing it. The savages accompanying +us carried their canoes by land, being unable to row them. After going over +this fall, we saw some fine meadows. I was greatly surprised by this fall, +since as we descended with the tide we found it in our favor, but contrary +to us when we came to the fall. But, after we had passed it, it descended +as before, which gave us great Satisfaction. [114] Pursuing our route, we +came to the lake, [115] which is from three to four leagues in length. Here +are some islands, and two rivers enter it, the Quinibequy coming from the +north north-east, and the other from the north-west, whence were to come +Marchin and Sasinou. Having awaited them all this day, and as they did not +come, we resolved to improve our time. We weighed anchor accordingly, and +there accompanied us two savages from this lake to serve as guides. The +same day we anchored at the mouth of the river, where we caught a large +number of excellent fish of various sorts. Meanwhile, our savages went +hunting, but did not return. The route by which we descended this river is +much safer and better than that by which we had gone. Tortoise Island +before the mouth of this river is in latitude [116] 44°; and 19° 12' of the +deflection of the magnetic needle. They go by this river across the country +to Quebec some fifty leagues, making only one portage of two leagues. After +the portage, you enter another little stream which flows into the great +river St. Lawrence [117]. This river Quinibequy is very dangerous for +vessels half a league from its mouth, on account of the small amount of +water, great tides, rocks and shoals outside as well as within. But it has +a good channel, if it were well marked out. The land, so far as I have seen +it along the shores of the river, is very poor, for there are only rocks on +all sides. There are a great many small oaks, and very little arable land. +Fish abound here, as in the other rivers which I have mentioned. The people +live like those in the neighborhood of our settlement; and they told us +that the savages, who plant the Indian corn, dwelt very far in the +interior, and that they had given up planting it on the coasts on account +of the war they had with others, who came and took it away. This is what I +have been able to learn about this region, which I think is no better than +the others. + +On the 8th of the month, we set out from the mouth of this river, not being +able to do so sooner on account of the fogs. We made that day some four +leagues, and passed a bay [118], where there are a great many islands. From +here large mountains [119] are seen to the west, in which is the +dwelling-place of a savage captain called Aneda, who encamps near the river +Quinibequy. I was satisfied from this name that it was one of his tribe +that had discovered the plant called Aneda, [120] which Jacques Cartier +said was so powerful against the malady called scurvy, of which we have +already spoken, which harassed his company as well as our own, when they +wintered in Canada. The savages have no knowledge at all of this plant, and +are not aware of its existence, although the above-mentioned savage has the +same name. The following day we made eight leagues. [121] As we passed +along the coast, we perceived two columns of smoke which some savages made +to attract our attention. We went and anchored in the direction of them +behind a small island near the main land, [122] where we saw more than +eighty savages running along the shore to see us, dancing and giving +expression to their joy. Sieur de Monts sent two men together with our +savage to visit them. After they had spoken some time with them, and +assured them of our friendship, we left with them one of our number, and +they delivered to us one of their companions as a hostage. Meanwhile, Sieur +de Monts visited an island, which is very beautiful in view of what it +produces; for it has fine oaks and nut-trees, the soil cleared up, and many +vineyards bearing beautiful grapes in their season, which were the first we +had seen on all these coasts from the Cap de la Hève. We named it Isle de +Bacchus [123]. It being full tide, we weighed anchor and entered a little +river, which we could not sooner do; for there is a bar, there being at low +tide only half a fathom of water, at full tide a fathom and a half, and at +the highest water two fathoms. On the other side of the bar there are +three, four, five, and six fathoms. When we had anchored, a large number of +savages came to the bank of the river, and began to dance. Their captain at +the time, whom they called Honemechin [124], was not with them. He arrived +about two or three hours later with two canoes, when he came sweeping +entirely round our barque. Our savage could understand only a few words, as +the language of the Almouchiquois [125] (for that is the name of this +nation) differs entirely from that of the Souriquois and Etechemins. These +people gave signs of being greatly pleased. Their chief had a good figure, +was young and agile. We sent some articles of merchandise on shore to +barter with them; but they had nothing but their robes to give in exchange, +for they preserve only such furs as they need for their garments. Sieur de +Monts ordered some provisions to be given to their chief, with which he was +greatly pleased, and came several times to the side of our boat to see us. +These savages shave off the hair far up on the head, and wear what remains +very long, which they comb and twist behind in various ways very neatly, +intertwined with feathers which they attach to the head. They paint their +faces black and red, like the other savages which we have seen. They are an +agile people, with well-formed bodies. Their weapons are pikes, clubs, bows +and arrows, at the end of which some attach the tail of a fish called the +signoc, others bones, while the arrows of others are entirely of wood. They +till and cultivate the soil, something which we have not hitherto +observed. In the place of ploughs, they use an instrument of very hard +wood, shaped like a spade. This river is called by the inhabitants of the +country Choüacoet. [126] + +The next day Sieur de Monts and I landed to observe their tillage on the +bank of the river. We saw their Indian corn, which they raise in gardens. +Planting three or four kernels in one place, they then heap up about it a +quantity of earth with shells of the signoc before mentioned. Then three +feet distant they plant as much more, and thus in succession. With this +corn they put in each hill three or four Brazilian beans, [127] which are +of different colors. When they grow up, they interlace with the corn, which +reaches to the height of from five to six feet; and they keep the ground +very free from weeds. We saw there many squashes,[128] and pumpkins, [129] +and tobacco, which they likewise cultivate. [130] + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +CHOUACOIT R. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. The river. +_B_. Place where they have their fortress. +_C_. Cabins in the open fields, near which they cultivate the land and + plant Indian corn. +_D_. Extensive tract of land which is sandy, but covered with grass. +_E_. Another place where they have their dwellings all together after they + have planted their corn. +_F_. Marshes with good pasturage. +_G_. Spring of fresh water. +_H_. A large point of land all cleared up except some fruit trees and wild + vines. +_I_. Little island at the entrance of the river. +_L_. Another islet. +_M_. Two islands under shelter of which vessels can anchor with good + bottom. +_N_. A point of land cleared up where Marchin came to us. +_O_. Four islands. +_P_. Little brook dry at low tide. +_Q_. Shoals along the coast. +_R_. Roadsted where vessels can anchor while waiting for the tide. + +NOTES. Of the two islands in the northern part of the bay, the larger, +marked _M_, is Stratton Island, nearly half a mile long, and a mile and a +half from Prout's Neck, which lies north of it. A quarter of a mile from +Stratton is Bluff Island, a small island north-west of it. Of the four +islands at the southern end of the bay, the most eastern is Wood Island, on +which the United States maintain a light. The next on the west, two hundred +and fifty yards distant, is Negro Island. The third still further west is +Stage Island. The fourth, quarter of a mile west of the last named, is +Basket Island. The neck or peninsula, south-west of the islands, is now +called the POOL, much resorted to as a watering-place in the summer. The +island near the mouth of the river is Ram Island, and that directly north +of it is Eagle Island. From the mouth of the River to Prout's Neck, marked, +is one of the finest beaches in New England, extending about six nautical +miles. Its Southern extremity is known as Ferry, the northern Scarborough, +and midway between them is Old Orchard Beach, the latter a popular resort +in the summer months of persons from distant parts of the United States and +Canada. + + * * * * * + +The Indian corn which we saw was at that time about two feet high, some of +it as high as three. The beans were beginning to flower, as also the +pumpkins and squashes. They plant their corn in May, and gather it in +September. We saw also a great many nuts, which are small and have several +divisions. There were as yet none on the trees, but we found plenty under +them, from the preceding year. We saw also many grape-vines, on which there +was a remarkably fine berry, from which we made some very good verjuice. +We had heretofore seen grapes only on the Island of Bacchus, distant nearly +two leagues from this river. Their permanent abode, the tillage, and the +fine trees led us to conclude that the air here is milder and better than +that where we passed the winter, and at the other places we visited on the +coast. But I cannot believe that there is not here a considerable degree +of cold, although it is in latitude 43° 45'. [131] The forests in the +interior are very thin, although abounding in oaks, beeches, ashes, and +elms; in wet places there are many willows. The savages dwell permanently +in this place, and have a large cabin surrounded by palisades made of +rather large trees placed by the side of each other, in which they take +refuge when their enemies make war upon them. [132] They cover their cabins +with oak bark. This place is very pleasant, and as agreeable as any to be +seen. The river is very abundant in fish, and is bordered by meadows. At +the mouth there is a small island adapted for the construction of a good +fortress, where one could be in security. + +On Sunday, [133] the 12th of the month, we set out from the river +Choüacoet. After coasting along some six or seven leagues, a contrary wind +arose, which obliged us to anchor and go ashore, [134] where we saw two +meadows, each a league in length and half a league in breadth. We saw there +two savages, whom at first we took to be the great birds called bustards, +to be found in this country; who, as soon as they caught sight of us, took +flight into the woods, and were not seen again. From Choüacoet to this +place, where we saw some little birds, which sing like blackbirds, and are +black excepting the ends of the wings, which are orange-colored, [135] +there is a large number of grape-vines and nut-trees. This coast is sandy, +for the most part, all the way from Quinibequy. This day we returned two +or three leagues towards Choüacoet, as far as a cape which we called Island +Harbor, [136] favorable for vessels of a hundred tons, about which are +three islands. Heading north-east a quarter north, one can enter another +harbor [137] near this place, to which there is no approach, although there +are islands, except the one where you enter. At the entrance there are some +dangerous reefs. There are in these islands so many red currants that one +sees for the most part nothing else, [138] and an infinite number of +pigeons, [139] of which we took a great quantity. This Island Harbor [140] +is in latitude 43° 25'. + +On the 15th of the month we made twelve leagues. Coasting along, we +perceived a smoke on the shore, which we approached as near as possible, +but saw no savage, which led us to believe that they had fled. The sun set, +and we could find no harbor for that night, since the coast was flat and +sandy. Keeping off, and heading south, in order to find an anchorage, after +proceeding about two leagues, we observed a cape [141] on the main land +south a quarter south-east of us, some six leagues distant. Two leagues to +the east we saw three or four rather high islands, [142] and on the west a +large bay. The coast of this bay, reaching as far as the cape, extends +inland from where we were perhaps four leagues. It has a breadth of two +leagues from north to south, and three at its entrance. [143] Not observing +any place favorable for putting in, [144] we resolved to go to the cape +above mentioned with short sail, which occupied a portion of the night. +Approaching to where there were sixteen fathoms of water, we anchored until +daybreak. + +On the next day we went to the above-mentioned cape, where there are three +islands [145] near the main land, full of wood of different kinds, as at +Choüacoet and all along the coast; and still another flat one, where there +are breakers, and which extends a little farther out to Sea than the +others, on which there is no wood at all. We named this place Island Cape, +[146] near which we saw a canoe containing five or six savages, who came +out near our barque, and then went back and danced on the beach. Sieur de +Monts sent me on shore to observe them, and to give each one of them a +knife and some biscuit, which caused them to dance again better than +before. This over, I made them understand, as well as I could, that I +desired them to show me the course of the shore. After I had drawn with a +crayon the bay, [147] and the Island Cape, where we were, with the same +crayon they drew the outline of another bay, [148] which they represented +as very large; here they placed six pebbles at equal distances apart, +giving me to understand by this that these signs represented as many chiefs +and tribes. [149] Then they drew within the first mentioned bay a river +which we had passed, which has shoals and is very long. [150] We found in +this place a great many vines, the green grapes on which were a little +larger than peas, also many nut-trees, the nuts on which were no larger +than musket-balls. The savages told us that all those inhabiting this +country cultivated the land and sowed seeds like the others, whom we had +before seen. The latitude of this place is 43° and some minutes. [151] +Sailing half a league farther, we observed several savages on a rocky +point, [152] who ran along the shore, dancing as they went, to their +companions to inform them of our coming. After pointing out to us the +direction of their abode, they made a signal with smoke to show us the +place of their settlement. We anchored near a little island, [153] and sent +our canoe with knives and cakes for the savages. From the large number of +those we saw, we concluded that these places were better inhabited than the +others we had seen. + +After a stay of some two hours for the sake of observing those people, +whose canoes are made of birch bark, like those of the Canadians, +Souriquois, and Etechemins, we weighed anchor and set sail with a promise +of fine weather. Continuing our course to the west-south-west we saw +numerous islands on one side and the other. Having sailed seven or eight +leagues, we anchored near an island, [154] whence we observed many smokes +along the shore, and many savages running up to see us. Sieur de Monts sent +two or three men in a canoe to them, to whom he gave some knives and +paternosters to present to them; with which they were greatly pleased, and +danced several times in acknowledgment. We could not ascertain the name of +their chief, as we did not know their language. All along the shore there +is a great deal of land cleared up and planted with Indian corn. The +country is very pleasant and agreeable, and there is no lack of fine trees. +The canoes of those who live there are made of a single piece, and are very +liable to turn over if one is not skilful in managing them. We had not +before seen any of this kind. They are made in the following manner. After +cutting down, at a cost of much labor and time, the largest and tallest +tree they can find, by means of stone hatchets (for they have no others +except some few which they received from the Savages on the coasts of La +Cadie, [155] them in exchange for furs), they remove the bark, and round +off the tree except on one side, where they apply fire gradually along its +entire length; and sometimes they put red-hot pebble-stones on top. When +the fire is too fierce, they extinguish it with a little water, not +entirely, but so that the edge of the boat may not be burnt. It being +hollowed out as much as they wish, they scrape it all over with stones, +which they use instead of knives. These stones resemble our musket flints. + +On the next day, the 17th of the month, we weighed anchor to go to a cape +we had seen the day before, which seemed to lie on our south +south-west. This day we were able to make only five leagues, and we passed +by some islands [156] covered with wood. I observed in the bay all that the +savages had described to me at Island Cape. As we continued our course, +large numbers came to us in canoes from the islands and main land. We +anchored a league from a cape, which we named St. Louis, [157] where we +noticed smoke in several places. While in the act of going there, our +barque grounded on a rock, where we were in great danger, for, if we had +not speedily got it off, it would have overturned in the sea, since the +tide was falling all around, and there were five or six fathoms of +water. But God preserved us, and we anchored near the above-named cape, +when there come to us fifteen or sixteen canoes of savages. In some of them +there were fifteen or sixteen, who began to manifest great signs of joy, +and made various harangues, which we could not in the least understand. +Sieur de Monts sent three or four men on shore in our canoe, not only to +get water, but to see their chief, whose name was Honabetha. The latter had +a number of knives and other trifles, which Sieur de Monts gave him, when +he came alongside to see us, together with some of his companions, who were +present both along the shore and in their canoes. We received the chief +very cordially, and made him welcome; who, after remaining some time, went +back. Those whom we had sent to them brought us some little squashes as big +as the fist, which we ate as a salad, like cucumbers, and which we found +very good. They brought also some purslane, [158] which grows in large +quantities among the Indian corn, and of which they make no more account +than of weeds. We saw here a great many little houses, scattered over the +fields where they plant their Indian corn. + +There is, moreover, in this bay a very broad river, which we named River du +Guast. [159] It stretches, as it seemed to me, towards the Iroquois, a +nation in open warfare with the Montagnais, who live on the great river +St. Lawrence. + +ENDNOTES: + +107. _Isle de la Tortue_, commonly known as Seguin Island, high and rocky, + with precipitous shores. It is nearly equidistant from Wood, Pond, and + Salter's Islands at the mouth of the Kennebec, and about one mile and + three quarters from each. The United States light upon it is 180 feet + above the level of the sea. It may be seen at the distance of twenty + miles. + +108. Ellingwood Rock, Seguin Ledges, and White Ledge. + +109. Pond Island on the west, and Stage Island on the east: the two rocks + referred to in the same sentence are now called the Sugar Loaves. + +110. This was apparently in the upper part of Back River, where it is + exceedingly narrow. The minute and circumstantial description of the + mouth of the Kennebec, and the positive statement in the text that + they entered the river so described, and the conformity of the + description to that laid down on our Coast Survey Charts, as well as + on Champlain's local map, all render it certain that they entered the + mouth of the Kennebec proper; and having entered, they must have + passed on a flood-tide into and through Back River, which in some + places is so narrow that their little barque could hardly fall to be + grazed in passing. Having reached Hockomock Bay, they passed down + through the lower Hell Gate, rounded the southern point of West Port + or Jerremisquam Island, sailing up its eastern shore until they + reached the harbor of Wiscasset; then down the western side, turning + Hockomock Point, threading the narrow passage of the Sasanoa River + through the upper Hell Gate, entering the Sagadahoc, passing the + Chops, and finally through the Neck, into Merrymeeting Bay. The + narrowness of the channel and the want of water at low tide in Back + River would seem at first blush to throw a doubt over the possibility + of Champlain's passing through this tidal passage. But it has at least + seven feet of water at high tide. His little barque, of fifteen tons, + without any cargo, would not draw more than four feet at most, and + would pass through without any difficulty, incommoded only by the + narrowness of the channel to which Champlain refers. With the same + barque, they passed over the bar at Nauset, or Mallebarre, where + Champlain distinctly says there were only four feet of water.--_Vide + postea_, p. 81. + +111. West Port, or Jerremisquam Island. + +112. This was Wiscasset Harbor, as farther on it will be seen that from + this point they started down the river, taking another way than that + by which they had come. + +113. Hockomock Point, a rocky precipitous bluff. + +114. The movement of the waters about this "narrow waterfall" has been a + puzzle from the days of Champlain to the present time. The phenomena + have not changed. Having consulted the United States Coast Pilot and + likewise several persons who have navigated these waters and have a + personal knowledge of the "fall," the following is, we think, a + satisfactory explanation. The stream in which the fall occurs is + called the Sasanoa, and is a tidal current flowing from the Kennebec, + opposite the city of Bath, to the Sheepscot. It was up this tidal + passage that Champlain was sailing from the waters of the Sheepscot to + the Kennebec, and the "narrow waterfall" was what is now called the + upper Hell Gate, which is only fifty yards wide, hemmed in by walls of + rock on both sides. Above it the Sasanoa expands into a broad bay. + When the tide from the Kennebec has filled this bay, the water rushes + through this narrow gate with a velocity Sometimes of thirteen miles + an hour. There is properly no fall in the bed of the stream, but the + appearance of a fall is occasioned by the pent-up waters of the bay + above rushing through this narrow outlet, having accumulated faster + than they could be drained off. At half ebb, on a spring tide, a wall + of water from six inches to a foot stretches across the stream, and + the roar of the flood boiling over the rocks at the Gate can be heard + two miles below. The tide continues to flow up the Sasanoa from the + Sheepscot not only on the flood, but for some time on the ebb, as the + waters in the upper part of the Sheepscot and its bays, in returning, + naturally force themselves up this passage until they are sufficiently + drained off to turn the current in the Sasanoa in the other direction. + Champlain, sailing from the Sheepscot up the Sasanoa, arrived at the + Gate probably just as the tide was beginning to turn, and when there + was comparatively only a slight fall, but yet enough to make it + necessary to force their little barque up through the Gate by means of + hawsers as described in the text. After getting a short distance from + the narrows, he would be on the water ebbing back into the Kennebec, + and would be still moving with the tide, as he had been until he + reached the fall. + +115. Merrymeeting Bay, so called from the meeting in this bay of the two + rivers mentioned in the text a little below, viz., the Kennebec and + the Androscoggin. + +116. The latitude of Seguin, here called Tortoise Island, is 43° 42' 25". + +117. The head-waters of the Kennebec, as well as those of the Penobscot, + approach very near to the Chaudière, which flows into the St. + Lawrence near Quebec. + +118. Casco Bay, which stretches from Cape Small Point to Cape Elizabeth. It + has within it a hundred and thirty-six islands. They anchored and + passed the night somewhere within the limits of this bay, but did not + attempt its exploration. + +119. These were the White Mountains in New Hampshire, towering above the + sea 6,225 feet. They are about sixty miles distant from Casco Bay, and + were observed by all the early voyagers as they sailed along the coast + of Maine. They are referred to on Ribero's Map of 1529 by the Spanish + word _montañas_, and were evidently seen by Estevan Gomez in 1525, + whose discoveries are delineated by this map. They will also be found + on the Mappe-Monde of about the middle of the sixteenth century, and + on Sebastian Cabot's map, 1544, both included in the "Monuments de la + Géographie" of Jomard, and they are also indicated on numerous other + early maps. + +120. This conjecture is not sustained by any evidence beyond the similarity + of the names. There are numerous idle opinions as to the kind of plant + which was so efficacious a remedy for the scurvy, but they are utterly + without foundation. There does not appear to be any means of + determining what the healing plant was. + +121. The four leagues of the previous day added to the eight of this bring + them from the Kennebec to Saco Bay. + +122. The small island "proche de la grande terre" was Stratton Island: they + anchored on the northern side and nearly east of Bluff Island, which + is a quarter of a mile distant. The Indians came down to welcome them + from the promontory long known as Black Point, now called Prout's + Neck. Compare Champlain's local map and the United States Coast Survey + Charts. + +123. Champlain's narrative, together with his sketch or drawing, + illustrating the mouth of the Saco and its environs, compared with the + United States Coast Survey Charts, renders it certain that this was + Richmond Island. Lescarbot describes it as a 'great island, about half + a league in compass, at the entrance of the bay of the said place of + Choüacoet It is about a mile long, and eight hundred yards in its + greatest width.--_Coast Pilot_. It received its present name at a very + early period. It was granted under the title of "a small island, + called Richmond," by the Council for New England to Walter Bagnall, + Dec. 2, 1631.--_Vide Calendar of Eng. State Papers_, Col. 1574-1660, + p. 137. Concerning the death of Bagnall on this island a short time + before the above grant was made, _vide Winthrop's Hist. New Eng._, + ed. 1853, Vol. I. pp. 75, 118. + +124. Lescarbot calls him Olmechin.--_Histoire de la Nouvelle France_, par + M. Lescarbot, Paris, 1612, p. 558. + +125. They had hoped that the wife of Panounias, their Indian guide, who was + said to have been born among the Almouchiquois, would be able to + interpret their language, but in this they appear to have been + disappointed.--_Vide antea_, p. 55. + +126. From the Indian word, M'-foo-ah-koo-et, or, as the French pronounced + it, _Choüacoet_, which had been the name, applied by the aborigines to + this locality we know not how long, is derived the name Saco, now + given to the river and city in the same vicinity. The orthography + given to the original word is various, as Sawocotuck, Sowocatuck, + Sawakquatook, Sockhigones, and Choüacost. The variations in this, as + in other Indian words, may have arisen from a misapprehension of the + sound given by the aborigines, or from ignorance, on the part of + writers, of the proper method of representing sounds, joined to an + utter indifference to a matter which seemed to them of trifling + importance. + +127. _Febues du Brésil_. This is the well-known trailing or bush-bean of + New England, _Phaseolus vulgaris_, called the "Brazilian bean" because + it resembled a bean known in France at that time under that name. It + is sometimes called the kidney-bean. It is indigenous to America. + +128. _Citrouilles_, the common summer squash, _Cucurbita polymorpha_, as + may be seen by reference to Champlain's map of 1612, where its form is + delineated over the inscription, _la forme des sitroules_. It is + indigenous to America. Our word squash is derived from the Indian + _askutasquash_ or _isquoutersquash_. "In summer, when their corne is + spent, Isquoutersquashes is their best bread, a fruit like the young + Pumpion."--_Wood's New England Prospect_, 1634, Prince Society ed., + p. 76. "_Askutasquash_, their Vine aples, which the _English_ from + them call _Squashes_, about the bignesse of Apples, of severall + colours, a sweet, light, wholesome refreshing."--_Roger Williams, + Key_, 1643, Narragansett Club ed., p. 125. + +129. _Courges_, the pumpkin, _Cucurbita maxima_, indigenous to America. As + the pumpkin and likewise the squash were vegetables hitherto unknown + to Champlain, there was no French word by which he could accurately + identify them. The names given to them were such as he thought would + describe them to his countrymen more nearly than any others. Had he + been a botanist, he would probably have given them new names. + +130. _Petum_. Tobacco, _Nicotiana rustica_, sometimes called wild tobacco. + It was a smaller and more hardy species than the _Nicotiana tabacum_, + now cultivated in warmer climates, but had the same qualities though + inferior in strength and aroma. It was found in cultivation by the + Indians all along our coast and in Canada. Cartier observed it growing + in Canada in 1535. Of it he says: "There groweth also a certain kind + of herbe, whereof in Sommer they make a great prouision for all the + yeere, making great account of it, and onely men vse of it, and first + they cause it to be dried in the Sunne, then weare it about their + neckes wrapped in a little beasts skinne made like a little bagge, + with a hollow peece of stone or wood like a pipe; then when they + please they make pouder of it, and then put it in one of the ends of + the said Cornet or pipe, and laying a cole of fire vpon it, at the + other ende sucke so long, that they fill their bodies full of smoke, + till that it commeth out of their mouth and nostrils, euen as out of + the Tonnell of a chimney. They say that this doth keepe them warme and + in health: they neuer goe without some of it about them. We ourselues + haue tryed the same smoke, and hauing put it in our mouthes, it seemed + almost as hot as Pepper."--_Jacques Cartier, 2 Voyage_, 1535; + _Hakluyt_, London, ed. 1810, Vol. III. p. 276. + + We may here remark that the esculents found in cultivation at Saco, + beans, squashes, pumpkins, and corn, as well as the tobacco, are all + American tropical or subtropical plants, and must have been + transmitted from tribe to tribe, from more southern climates. The + Indian traditions would seem to indicate this. "They have a + tradition," says Roger Williams, "that the Crow brought them at first + an _Indian_ Graine of Corne in one Eare, and an _Indian_ or _French_ + Beane in another, from the Great God _Kautantouwit's_ field in the + Southwest from whence they hold came all their Corne and Beanes."-- + _Key to the Language of America_, London, 1643, Narragansett Club ed., + p. 144. + + Seventy years before Champlain, Jacques Cartier had found nearly the + same vegetables cultivated by the Indians in the valley of the + St. Lawrence. He says: "They digge their grounds with certaine peeces + of wood, as bigge as halfe a sword, on which ground groweth their + corne, which they call Ossici; it is as bigge as our small peason.... + They haue also great store of Muske-milions. Pompions, Gourds, + Cucumbers, Peason, and Beanes of euery colour, yet differing from + ours."--_Hakluyt_, Vol. II. p. 276. For a full history of these + plants, the reader is referred to the History of Plants, a learned and + elaborate work now in press, by Charles Pickering, M.D. of Boston. + +131. The latitude of Wood Island at the mouth of the Saco, where they were + at anchor, is 43° 27' 23". + +132. The site of this Indian fortification was a rocky bluff on the western + side of the river, now owned by Mr. John Ward, where from time to time + Indian relics have been found. The island at the mouth of the river, + which Champlain speaks of as a suitable location for a fortress, is + Ram Island, and is low and rocky, and about a hundred and fifty yards + in length. + +133. For Sunday read Tuesday.--_Vide Shurtless's Calendar_. + +134. This landing was probably near Wells Neck, and the meadows which they + saw were the salt marshes of Wells. + +135. The Red-wing Blackbird, _Ageloeus phoeniceus_, of lustrous black, with + the bend of the wing red. They are still abundant in the same + locality, and indeed across the whole continent to the Pacific + Ocean.--_Vide Cones's Key_, Boston, 1872, p. 156; _Baird's Report_, + Washington, 1858, Part II. p. 526. + +136. _Le Port aux Isles_. This Island Harbor is the present Cape Porpoise + Harbor. + +137. This harbor is Goose Fair Bay, from one to two miles north-east of + Cape Porpoise, in the middle of which are two large ledges, "the + dangerous reefs" to which Champlain refers. + +138. This was the common red currant of the gardens, _Ribes rubrum_, which + is a native of America. The fetid currant, _Ribes prostratum_, is also + indigenous to this country. It has a pale red fruit, which gives forth + a very disagreeable odor. Josselyn refers to the currant both in his + Voyages and in his Rarities. Tuckerman found it growing wild in the + White Mountains. + +139. The passenger pigeon, _Ectopistes migratorius_, formerly numerous in + New England. Commonly known as the wild pigeon. Wood says they fly in + flocks of millions of millions.--_New England Prospect_, 1634; Prince + Society ed., p. 31. + +140. Champlain's latitude is less inaccurate than usual. It is not possible + to determine the exact point at which he took it. But the latitude of + Cape Porpoise, according to the Coast Survey Charts, is 43° 21' 43". + +141. Cape Anne. + +142. The point at which Champlain first saw Cape Anne, and "isles assez + hautes," the Isles of Shoals, was east of Little Boar's Head, and + three miles from the shore. Nine years afterward, Captain John Smith + visited these islands, and denominated them on his map of New England + Smith's Isles. They began at a very early date to be called the Isles + of Shoals. "Smith's Isles are a heape together, none neere them, + against Accominticus."--_Smith's Description of New England_. Rouge's + map, 1778, has Isles of Shoals, _ou des Ecoles_. For a full + description and history of these islands, the reader is referred to + "The Isles of Shoals," by John S. Jenness, New York, 1875. + +143. Champlain has not been felicitous in his description of this bay. He + probably means to say that from the point where he then was, off + Little Boar's Head, to the point where it extends farthest into the + land, or to the west, it appeared to be about twelve miles, and that + the depth of the bay appeared to be six miles, and eight at the point + of greatest depth. As he did not explore the bay, it is obvious that + he intended to speak of it only as measured by the eye. No name has + been assigned to this expanse of water on our maps. It washes the + coast of Hampton, Salisbury, Newburyport, Ipswich, and Annisquam. It + might well be called Merrimac Bay, aster the name of the important + river that empties its waters into it, midway between its northern and + southern extremities. + +144. It is to be observed that, starting from Cape Porpoise Harbor on the + morning of the 15th of July, they sailed twelve leagues before the + sail of the night commenced. This would bring them, allowing for the + sinuosities of the shore, to a point between Little Boar's Head and + the Isles of Shoals. In this distance, they had passed the sandy + shores of Wells Beach and York Beach in Maine, and Foss's Beach and + Rye Beach in New Hampshire, and still saw the white Sands of Hampton + and Salisbury Beaches stretching far into the bay on their right. The + excellent harbor of Portsmouth, land-locked by numerous islands, had + been passed unobserved. A sail of eighteen nautical miles brought them + to their anchorage at the extreme point of Cape Anne. + +145. Straitsmouth, Thatcher, and Milk island. They were named by Captain + John Smith the "Three Turks' Heads," in memory of the three Turks' + heads cut off by him at the siege of Caniza, by which he acquired from + Sigismundus, prince of Transylvania, their effigies in his shield for + his arms.--_The true Travels, Adventures, and Observations of Captaine + John Smith_, London, 1629. + +146. What Champlain here calls "le Cap aux Isles," Island Cape, is Cape + Anne, called Cape Tragabigzanda by Captain John Smith, the name of his + mistress, to whom he was given when a prisoner among the Turks. The + name was changed by Prince Charles, afterward Charles I., to Cape + Anne, in honor of his mother, who was Anne of Denmark.--_Vide + Description of New England_ by Capt. John Smith, London, 1616. + +147. This was the bay west of a line drawn from Little Boar's Head to Cape + Anne, which may well be called Merrimac Bay. + +148. Massachusetts Bay. + +149. It is interesting to observe the agreement of the sign-writing of this + savage on the point of Cape Anne with the statement of the historian + Gookin, who in 1656 was superintendent of Indian affairs in + Massachusetts, and who wrote in 1674. He says: "Their chief sachem + held dominion over many other petty governours; as those of + Weechagaskas, Neponsitt, Punkapaog, Nonantam, Nashaway, and some of + the Nipmuck people, as far as Pokomtacuke, as the old men of + Massachusetts affirmed." Here we have the six tribes, represented by + the pebbles, recorded seventy years later as a tradition handed down + by the old men of the tribe. Champlain remarks further on, "I observed + in the bay all that the savages had described to me at Island Cape." + +150. This was the Merrimac with its shoals at the mouth, which they had + passed without observing, having sailed from the offing near Little + Boar's Head directly to the head of Cape Anne, during the darkness of + the previous night. + +151. The latitude of the Straitsmouth Island Light on the extreme point of + Cape Anne is 42° 39' 43". A little east of it, where they probably + anchored, there are now sixteen fathoms of water. + +152. Emmerson's Point, forming the eastern extremity of Cape Anne, twenty + or twenty-five feet high, fringed with a wall of bare rocks on the + sea. + +153. Thatcher's Island, near the point just mentioned. It is nearly half a + mile long and three hundred and fifty yards wide, and about fifty feet + high. + +154. It is not possible to determine with absolute certainty the place of + this anchorage. But as Champlain describes, at the end of this + chapter, what must have been Charles River coming from the country of + the Iroquois or the west, most likely as seen from his anchorage, + there can be little doubt that he anchored in Boston Harbor, near the + western limit of Noddle's Island, now known as East Boston. + +155. The fishermen and fur-traders had visited these coasts from a very + early period.--_Vide antea_, note 18. From them they obtained the axe, + a most important implement in their rude mode of life, and it was + occasionally found in use among tribes far in the interior. + + _La Cadie_. Carelessness or indifference in regard to the orthography + of names was general in the time of Champlain. The volumes written in + the vain attempt to settle the proper method of spelling the name of + Shakespeare, are the fruit of this indifference. La Cadie did not + escape this treatment. Champlain writes it Arcadie, Accadie, La Cadie, + Acadie, and L'Acadie; while Lescarbot uniformly, as far as we have + observed, La Cadie. We have also seen it written L'Arcadie and + L'Accadie, and in some, if not in all the preceding forms, with a + Latin termination in _ia_. It is deemed important to secure + uniformity, and to follow the French form in the translation of a + French work rather than the Latin. In this work, it is rendered LA + CADIE in all cases except in quotations. The history of the name + favors this form rather than any other. The commission or charter + given to De Monts by Henry IV. in 1603, a state paper or legal + document, drawn, we may suppose, with more than usual care, has La + Cadie, and repeats it four times without variation. It is a name of + Indian origin, as may be inferred by its appearing in composition in + such words as Passamacadie, Subenacadie, and Tracadie, plainly derived + from the language spoken by the Souriquois and Etechemins. Fifty-five + years before it was introduced into De Monts's commission, it appeared + written _Larcadia_ in Gastaldo's map of "Terra Nova del Bacalaos," in + the Italian translation of Ptolemy's Geography, by Pietro Andrea + Mattiolo, printed at Venice in 1548. The colophon bears date October, + 1547. This rare work is in the possession of Henry C. Murphy, LL.D., + to whom we are indebted for a very beautiful copy of the map. It + appeared again in 1561 on the map of Ruscelli, which was borrowed, as + well as the whole map, from the above work.--_Vide Ruscelli's map in + Dr. Kohl's Documentary History of Maine_, Maine Hist. Soc., Portland, + 1869, p. 233. On this map, Larcadia stands on the coast of Maine, in + the midst of the vast territory included in De Monts's grant, between + the degrees of forty and forty-six north latitude. It will be + observed, if we take away the Latin termination, that the + pronunciation of this word as it first appeared in 1547, would not + differ in _sound_ from La Cadie. It seems, therefore, very clear that + the name of the territory stretching along the coast of Maine, we know + not how far north or south, as it was caught from the lips of the + natives at some time anterior 1547, was best represented by La Cadie, + as pronounced by the French. Whether De Monts had obtained the name of + his American domain from those who had recently visited the coast and + had caught its sound from the natives, or whether he had taken it from + this ancient map, we must remain uninformed. Several writers have + ventured to interpret the word, and give us its original meaning. The + following definitions have been offered: 1. The land of dogs; 2. Our + village; 3. The fish called pollock; 4. Place; 5. Abundance. We do not + undertake to decide between the disagreeing doctors. But it is obvious + to remark that a rich field lies open ready for a noble harvest for + any young scholar who has a genius for philology, and who is prepared + to make a life work of the study and elucidation of the original + languages of North America. The laurels in this field are still to be + gathered. + +156. The islands in Boston Bay. + +157. This attempt to land was in Marshfield near the mouth of South River. + Not succeeding, they sailed forward a league, and anchored at Brant + Point, which they named the Cape of St. Louis. + +158. This purslane, _Portulaca oleracea_, still grows vigorously among the + Indian corn in New England, and is regarded with no more interest now + than in 1605. It is a tropical plant, and was introduced by the + Indians probably by accident with the seeds of tobacco or other + plants. + +159. Here at the end of the chapter Champlain seems to be reminded that he + had omitted to mention the river of which he had learned, and had + probably seen in the bay. This was Charles River. From the western + side of Noddle's Island, or East Boston, where they were probably at + anchor, it appeared at its confluence with the Mystic River to come + from the west, or the country of the Iroquois. By reference to + Champlain's large map of 1612, this river will be clearly identified + as Charles River, in connection with Boston Bay and its numerous + islands. On that map it is represented as a long river flowing from + the west. This description of the river by Champlain was probably from + personal observation. Had he obtained his information from the + Indians, they would not have told him that it was broad or that it + came from the west, for such are not the facts; but they would have + represented to him that it was small, winding in its course, and that + it came from the south. We infer, therefore, that he not only saw it + himself, but probably from the deck of the little French barque, as it + was riding at anchor in our harbor near East Boston, where Charles + River, augmented by the tide, flows into the harbor from the west, in + a strong, broad, deep current. They named it in honor of Pierre du + Guast, Sieur de Monts, the commander of this expedition. Champlain + writes the name "du Gas;" De Laet has "de Gua;" while Charlevoix + writes "du Guast." This latter orthography generally prevails. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +CONTINUATION OF THE DISCOVERIES ALONG THE COAST OF THE ALMOUCHIQUOIS, AND +WHAT WE OBSERVED IN DETAIL. + + +The next day we doubled Cap St. Louis, [160] so named by Sieur de Monts, a +land rather low, and in latitude 42° 45'. [161] The same day we sailed two +leagues along a sandy coast, as we passed along which we saw a great many +cabins and gardens. The wind being contrary, we entered a little bay to +await a time favorable for proceeding. There came to us two or three +canoes, which had just been fishing for cod and other fish, which are found +there in large numbers. These they catch with hooks made of a piece of +wood, to which they attach a bone in the shape of a spear, and fasten it +very securely. The whole has a fang-shape, and the line attached to it is +made out of the bark of a tree. They gave me one of their hooks, which I +took as a curiosity. In it the bone was fastened on by hemp, like that in +France, as it seemed to me, and they told me that they gathered this plant +without being obliged to cultivate it; and indicated that it grew to the +height of four or five feet. [162] This canoe went back on shore to give +notice to their fellow inhabitants, who caused columns of smoke to arise on +our account We saw eighteen or twenty savages, who came to the shore and +began to dance. Our canoe landed in order to give them some bagatelles, at +which they were greatly pleased. Some of them came to us and begged us to +go to their river. We weighed anchor to do so, but were unable to enter on +account of the small amount of water, it being low tide, and were +accordingly obliged to anchor at the mouth. I went ashore, where I saw many +others, who received us very cordially. I made also an examination of the +river, but saw only an arm of water extending a short distance inland, +where the land is only in part cleared up. Running into this is merely a +brook not deep enough for boats except at full tide. The circuit of the bay +is about a league. On one side of the entrance to this bay there is a point +which is almost an island, covered with wood, principally pines, and +adjoins sand-banks, which are very extensive. On the other side, the land +is high. There are two islets in this bay, which are not seen until one +has entered, and around which it is almost entirely dry at low tide. This +place is very conspicuous from the sea, for the coast is very low, +excepting the cape at the entrance to the bay. We named it the Port du Cap +St. Louis, [163] distant two leagues from the above cape, and ten from the +Island Cape. It is in about the same latitude as Cap St. Louis. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +PORT ST. LOUIS. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. Indicates the place where vessels lie. +_B_. The channel. +_C_. Two islands. [Note: Clark's Island is now the sole representative of + the two figured by Champlain in 1605. The action of the waves has + either united the two, or swept one of them away. It was named after + Clark, the master's mate of the "May Flower," who was the first to + step on shore, when the party of Pilgrims, sent out from Cape Cod + Harbor to Select a habitation, landed on this island, and passed the + night of the 9th of December, O. S. 1620. _Vide_ Morton's Memorial, + 1669, Plymouth Ed. 1826. p. 35: Young's Chronicles, p. 160; Bradford's + His. Plym. Plantation, p. 87. This delineation removes all doubt as to + the missing island in Plymouth Harbor, and shows the incorrectness of + the theory as to its being Saquish Head, suggested in a note in + Young's Chronicles, p. 64. _Vide_ also Mourt's Relation, Dexter's ed., + note 197.] +_D_. Sandy downs. [Note: Saquish Neck] +_E_. Shoals. +_F_. Cabins where the savages till the ground. +_G_. Place where we beached our barque. +_H_. Land having the appearance of an island, covered with wood and + adjoining the sandy downs. [Note: Saquish Head, which seems to have + been somewhat changed since the time of Champlain. Compare Coast + Survey Chart of Plymouth Harbor, 1857.] +_I_. A high promontory which may be seen four or five leagues at + sea. [Note: Manomet Bluff.] + + * * * * * + +On the 19th of the month, we set out from this place. Coasting along in a +southerly direction, we sailed four or five leagues, and passed near a rock +on a level with the surface of the water. As we continued our course, we +saw some land which seemed to us to be islands, but as we came nearer we +found it to be the main land, lying to the north-north-west of us, and that +it was the cape of a large bay, [164] containing more than eighteen or +nineteen leagues in circuit, into which we had run so far that we had to +wear off on the other tack in order to double the cape which we had +seen. The latter we named Cap Blanc, [165] since it contained sands and +downs which had a white appearance. A favorable wind was of great +assistance to us here, for otherwise we should have been in danger of being +driven upon the coast. This bay is very safe, provided the land be not +approached nearer than a good league, there being no islands nor rocks +except that just mentioned, which is near a river that extends some +distance inland, which we named St. Suzanne du Cap Blanc, [166] whence +across to Cap St. Louis the distance is ten leagues. Cap Blanc is a point +of sand, which bends around towards the south some six leagues. This coast +is rather high, and consists of sand, which is very conspicuous as one +comes from the Sea. At a distance of some fifteen or eighteen leagues from +land, the depth of the water is thirty, forty, and fifty fathoms, but only +ten on nearing the shore, which is unobstructed. There is a large extent +of open country along the shore before reaching the woods, which are very +attractive and beautiful. We anchored off the coast, and saw some savages, +towards whom four of our company proceeded. Making their way upon a +sand-bank, they observed something like a bay, and cabins bordering it on +all sides. When they were about a league and a half from us, there came to +them a savage dancing all over, as they expressed it. He had come down from +the high shore, but turned about shortly after to inform his fellow +inhabitants of our arrival. + +The next day, the 20th of the month, we went to the place which our men had +seen, and which we found a very dangerous harbor in consequence of the +shoals and banks, where we saw breakers in all directions. It was almost +low tide when we entered, and there were only four feet of water in the +northern passage; at high tide, there are two fathoms. After we had +entered, we found the place very spacious, being perhaps three or four +leagues in circuit, entirely surrounded by little houses, around each one +of which there was as much land as the occupant needed for his support. A +small river enters here, which is very pretty, and in which at low tide +there are some three and a half feet of water. There are also two or three +brooks bordered by meadows. It would be a very fine place, if the harbor +were good. I took the altitude, and found the latitude 42°, and the +deflection of the magnetic needle 18° 40'. Many savages, men and women, +visited us, and ran up on all sides dancing. We named this place Port de +Mallebarre. [167] + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +MALLEBARRE. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. The two entrances to the harbor. +_B_. Sandy downs where the savages killed a sailor belonging to the barque + of Sieur de Monts. +_C_. Places in the harbor where the barque of Sieur de Monts was. +_D_. Spring on the shore of the harbor. +_E_. A river flowing into the harbor. +_F_. A brook. +_G_. A small river where quantities of fish are caught. +_H_. Sandy downs with low shrubs and many vines. +_I_. Island at the point of the downs. +_L_. Houses and dwelling-places of the savages that till the land. +_M_. Shoals and sand-banks at the entrance and inside of the harbor. +_O_. Sandy downs. +_P_. Sea-coast, +_q_. Barque of Sieur de Poutrincourt when he visited the place two years + after Sieur de Monts. +_R_. Landing of the party of Sieur de Poutrincourt. + +NOTES. A comparison of this map with the Coast Survey Charts will show very +great changes in this harbor since the days of Champlain. Not only has the +mouth of the bay receded towards the south, but this recession appears to +have left entirely dry much of the area which was flooded in 1605. Under +reference _q_, on the above map, it is intimated that De Poutrincourt's +visit was two years after that of De Monts. It was more than one, and was +the second year after, but not, strictly speaking, "two years after." + + * * * * * + +The next day, the 21st of the month, Sieur de Monts determined to go and +see their habitation. Nine or ten of us accompanied him with our arms; the +rest remained to guard the barque. We went about a league along the coast. +Before reaching their cabins, we entered a field planted with Indian corn +in the manner before described. The corn was in flower, and five and a half +feet high. There was some less advanced, which they plant later. We saw +many Brazilian beans, and many squashes of various sizes, very good for +eating; some tobacco, and roots which they cultivate, the latter having the +taste of an artichoke. The woods are filled with oaks, nut-trees, and +beautiful cypresses, [168] which are of a reddish color and have a very +pleasant odor. There were also several fields entirely uncultivated, the +land being allowed to remain fallow. When they wish to plant it, they set +fire to the weeds, and then work it over with their wooden spades. Their +cabins are round, and covered with heavy thatch made of reeds. In the roof +there is an opening of about a foot and a half, whence the smoke from the +fire passes out. We asked them if they had their permanent abode in this +place, and whether there was much snow. But we were unable to ascertain +this fully from them, not understanding their language, although they made +an attempt to inform us by signs, by taking some sand in their hands. +Spreading it out over the ground, and indicating that it was of the color +of our collars, and that it reached the depth of a foot. Others made signs +that there was less, and gave us to understand also that the harbor never +froze; but we were unable to ascertain whether the snow lasted long. I +conclude, however, that this region is of moderate temperature, and the +winter not severe. While we were there, there was a north-cast storm, which +lasted four days; the sky being so overcast that the sun hardly shone at +all. It was very cold, and we were obliged to put on our great-coats, which +we had entirely left off. Yet I think the cold was accidental, as it is +often experienced elsewhere out of season. + +On the 23d of July, four or five seamen having gone on shore with some +kettles to get fresh water, which was to be found in one of the sand-banks +a short distance from our barque, some of the savages, coveting them, +watched the time when our men went to the spring, and then seized one out +of the hands of a sailor, who was the first to dip, and who had no +weapons. One of his companions, starting to run after him, soon returned, +as he could not catch him, since he ran much faster than himself. The other +savages, of whom there were a large number, seeing our sailors running to +our barque, and at the same time shouting to us to fire at them, took to +flight. At the time there were some of them in our barque, who threw +themselves into the sea, only one of whom we were able to seize. Those on +the land who had taken to flight, seeing them swimming, returned straight +to the sailor from whom they had taken away the kettle, hurled several +arrows at him from behind, and brought him down. Seeing this, they ran at +once to him, and despatched him with their knives. Meanwhile, haste was +made to go on shore, and muskets were fired from our barque: mine, bursting +in my hands, came near killing me. The savages, hearing this discharge of +fire-arms, took to flight, and with redoubled speed when they saw that we +had landed, for they were afraid when they saw us running after them. There +was no likelihood of our catching them, for they are as swift as horses. +We brought in the murdered man, and he was buried some hours later. +Meanwhile, we kept the prisoner bound by the feet and hands on board of our +barque, fearing that he might escape. But Sieur de Monts resolved to let +him go, being persuaded that he was not to blame, and that he had no +previous knowledge of what had transpired, as also those who, at the time, +were in and about our barque. Some hours later there came some savages to +us, to excuse themselves, indicating by signs and demonstrations that it +was not they who had committed this malicious act, but others farther off +in the interior. We did not wish to harm them, although it was in our power +to avenge ourselves. + +All these savages from the Island Cape wear neither robes nor furs, except +very rarely: moreover, their robes are made of grasses and hemp, scarcely +covering the body, and coming down only to their thighs. They have only the +sexual parts concealed with a small piece of leather; so likewise the +women, with whom it comes down a little lower behind than with the men, all +the rest of the body being naked. Whenever the women came to see us, they +wore robes which were open in front. The men cut off the hair on the top of +the head like those at the river Choüacoet. I saw, among other things, a +girl with her hair very neatly dressed, with a skin colored red, and +bordered on the upper part with little shell-beads. A part of her hair +hung down behind, the rest being braided in various ways. These people +paint the face red, black, and yellow. They have scarcely any beard, and +tear it out as fast as it grows. Their bodies are well-proportioned. I +cannot tell what government they have, but I think that in this respect +they resemble their neighbors, who have none at all. They know not how to +worship or pray; yet, like the other savages, they have some superstitions, +which I shall describe in their place. As for weapons, they have only +pikes, clubs, bows and arrows. It would seem from their appearance that +they have a good disposition, better than those of the north, but they are +all in fact of no great worth. Even a slight intercourse with them gives +you at once a knowledge of them. They are great thieves and, if they cannot +lay hold of any thing with their hands, they try to do so with their feet, +as we have oftentimes learned by experience. I am of opinion that, if they +had any thing to exchange with us, they would not give themselves to +thieving. They bartered away to us their bows, arrows, and quivers, for +pins and buttons; and if they had had any thing else better they would have +done the same with it. It is necessary to be on one's guard against this +people, and live in a state of distrust of them, yet without letting them +perceive it. They gave us a large quantity of tobacco, which they dry and +then reduce to powder. [169] When they eat Indian corn, they boil it in +earthen pots, which they make in a way different from ours. [170]. They +bray it also in wooden mortars and reduce it to flour, of which they then +make cakes, like the Indians of Peru. + +In this place and along the whole coast from Quinibequy, there are a great +many _siguenocs_, [171] which is a fish with a shell on its back like the +tortoise, yet different, there being in the middle a row of little +prickles, of the color of a dead leaf, like the rest of the fish. At the +end of this shell, there is another still smaller, bordered by very sharp +points. The length of the tail-varies according to their size. With the end +of it, these people point their arrows, and it contains also a row of +prickles like the large shell in which are the eyes. There are eight small +feet like those of the crab, and two behind longer and flatter, which they +use in swimming. There are also in front two other very small ones with +which they eat. When walking, all the feet are concealed excepting the two +hindermost which are slightly visible. Under the small shell there are +membranes which swell up, and beat like the throat of a frog, and rest upon +each other like the folds of a waistcoat. The largest specimen of this fish +that I saw was a foot broad, and a foot and a half long. + +We saw also a sea-bird [172] with a black beak, the upper part slightly +aquiline, four inches long and in the form of a lancet; namely, the lower +part representing the handle and the upper the blade, which is thin, sharp +on both sides, and shorter by a third than the other, which circumference +is a matter of astonishment to many persons, who cannot comprehend how it +is possible for this bird to eat with such a beak. It is of the size of a +pigeon, the wings being very long in proportion to the body, the tail +short, as also the legs, which are red; the feet being small and flat. The +plumage on the upper part is gray-brown, and on the under part pure white. +They go always in flocks along the sea-shore, like the pigeons with us. + +The savages, along all these coasts where we have been, say that other +birds, which are very large, come along when their corn is ripe. They +imitated for us their cry, which resembles that of the turkey. They showed +us their feathers in several places, with which they feather their arrows, +and which they put on their heads for decoration; and also a kind of hair +which they have under the throat like those we have in France, and they say +that a red crest falls over upon the beak. According to their description, +they are as large as a bustard, which is a kind of goose, having the neck +longer and twice as large as those with us. All these indications led us to +conclude that they were turkeys. [173] We should have been very glad to +see some of these birds, as well as their feathers, for the sake of greater +certainty. Before seeing their feathers, and the little bunch of hair which +they have under the throat, and hearing their cry imitated, I should have +thought that they were certain birds like turkeys, which are found in some +places in Peru, along the sea-shore, eating carrion and other dead things +like crows. But these are not so large; nor do they have so long a bill, or +a cry like that of real turkeys; nor are they good to eat like those which +the Indians say come in flocks in summer, and at the beginning of winter go +away to warmer countries, their natural dwelling-place. + +ENDNOTES: + +160. It will be observed that, after doubling this cape, they sailed two + leagues, and then entered Plymouth Harbor, and consequently this cape + must have been what is now known as Brant Point. + +161. The latitude is 42° 5'. + +162. This was plainly our Indian hemp, _Asclepias incarnata_. "The fibres + of the bark are strong, and capable of being wrought into a fine soft + thread; but it is very difficult to separate the bark from the stalk. + It is said to have been used by the Indians for bow-strings."--_Vide + Cutler in Memoirs of the American Academy_, Vol. I. p. 424. It is the + Swamp Milkweed of Gray, and grows in wet grounds. One variety is + common in New England. The Pilgrims found at Plymouth "an excellent + strong kind of Flaxe and Hempe"--_Vide Mourt's Relation_, Dexter's + ed. p. 62. + +163. _Port du Cap St. Louis_. From the plain, the map in his edition of + 1613, drawing of this Harbor left by Champlain, and also that of the + edition of 1632, it is plain that the "Port du Cap St. Louis" is + Plymouth Harbor, where anchored the "Mayflower" a little more than + fifteen years later than this, freighted with the first permanent + English colony established in New England, commonly known as the + Pilgrims. The Indian name of the harbor, according to Captain John + Smith, who visited it in 1614. was Accomack. He gave it, by direction + of Prince Charles, the name of Plymouth. More recent investigations + point to this harbor as the one visited by Martin Pring in 1603.-- + _Vide Paper by the Rev Benj. F. De Costa, before the New England + His. Gen. Society_, Nov. 7, 1877, New England His. and Gen. Register, + Vol. XXXII. p. 79. + + The interview of the French with the natives was brief, but courteous + and friendly on both sides. The English visits were interrupted by + more or less hostility. "When Pring was about ready to leave, the + Indians became hostile and set the woods on fire, and he saw it burn + 'for a mile space.'"--_De Costa_. A skirmish of some seriousness + occurred with Smith's party. "After much kindnesse upon a small + occasion, wee fought also with fortie or fiftie of those: though some + were hurt, and some slaine, yet within an hour after they became + friends."--_Smith's New England_, Boston, ed. 1865, p. 45. + +164. Cape Cod Bay. + +165. They named it "le Cap Blanc," the White Cape, from its white + appearance, while Bartholomew Gosnold, three years before, had named + it Cape Cod from the multitude of codfish near its shores. Captain + John Smith called it Cape James. All the early navigators who passed + along our Atlantic coast seem to have seen the headland of Cape + Cod. It is well defined on Juan de la Cosa's map of 1500, although no + name is given to it. On Ribero's map of 1529 it is called _C. de + arenas_. On the map of Nic. Vallard de Dieppe of 1543, it is called + _C. de Croix_. + +166. Wellfleet Harbor. It may be observed that a little farther back + Champlain says that, having sailed along in a southerly direction four + or five leagues, they were at a place where there was a "rock on a + level with the surface of the water," and that they saw lying + north-north-west of them Cap Blanc, that is, Cape Cod; he now says + that the "rock" is near a river, which they named St. Suzanne du Cap + Blanc, and that from it to Cap St. Louis the distance is ten + leagues. Now, as the distance across to Brant Point, or Cap St. Louis, + from Wellfleet Harbor, is ten leagues, and as Cap Blanc or Cape Cod is + north-northwest of it, it is plain that Wellfleet Harbor or Herring + River, which flows into it, was the river which they named St. Suzanne + du Cap Blanc, and that the "rock on a level with the water" was one of + the several to be found near the entrance of Wellfleet Bay. It may + have been the noted Bay Rock or Blue Rock. + +167. _Port de Mallebarre_, Nauset Harbor, in latitude 41° 48'. By comparing + Champlain's map of the harbor, it will be seen that important changes + have taken place since 1605. The entrance has receded a mile or more + towards the south, and this has apparently changed its interior + channel, and the whole form of the bay. The name itself has drifted + away with the sands, and feebly clings to the extremity of Monomoy + Point at the heel of the Cape. + +168. Not strictly a cypress, but rather a juniper, the Savin, or red cedar, + _Juniparus Virginiana_, a tree of exclusively American origin; and + consequently it could not be truly characterized by any name then + known to Champlain. + +169. The method of preparing tobacco here for smoking was probably not + different from that of the Indian tribes in Canada. Among the Huron + antiquities in the Museum at the University Laval are pipes which were + found already filled with tobacco, so prepared as to resemble our + fine-cut tobacco.--_Vide Laverdière in loco_. + +170. The following description of the Indian pottery, and the method of its + manufacture by their women, as quoted by Laverdière from Sagard's + History of Canada, who wrote in 1636, will be interesting to the + antiquary, and will illustrate what Champlain means by "a way + different from ours:"-- + + "They are skilful in making good earthen pots, which they harden very + well on the hearth, and which are so strong that they do not, like our + own, break over the fire when having no water in them. But they cannot + sustain dampness nor cold water so long as our own, since they become + brittle and break at the least shock given them; otherwise they last + very well. The savages make them by taking some earth of the right + kind, which they clean and knead well in their hands, mixing with it, + on what principle I know not, a small quantity of grease. Then making + the mass into the shape of a ball, they make an indentation in the + middle of it with the fist, which they make continually larger by + striking repeatedly on the outside with a little wooden paddle as much + as is necessary to complete it. These vessels are of different sizes, + without feet or handles, completely round like a ball, excepting the + mouth, which projects a little." + +171. This crustacean, _Limulus polyphemus_, is still seen on the strands of + New England. They are found in great abundance in more southern + waters: on the shores of Long Island and New Jersey, they are + collected in boat-loads and made useful for fertilizing purposes. + Champlain has left a drawing of it on his large map. It is vulgarly + known as the king-crab, or horse-foot; to the latter it bears a + striking similarity. This very accurate description of Champlain was + copied by De Laet into his elaborate work "Novvs Orbis," published in + 1633, accompanied by an excellent wood-engraving. This species is + peculiar to our Atlantic waters, and naturally at that time attracted + the attention of Europeans, who had not seen it before. + +172. The Black skimmer or Cut-water, _Rhynchops nigra_. It appears to be + distinct from, but closely related to, the Terns. This bird is here + described with general accuracy. According to Dr. Coues, it belongs + more particularly to the South Atlantic and Gulf States, where it is + very abundant; it is frequent in the Middle States, and only + occasionally seen in New England. The wings are exceedingly long; they + fly in close flocks, moving simultaneously. They seem to feed as they + skim low over the water, the under-mandible grazing or cutting the + surface, and thus taking in their food.--_Vide Coues's Key to North + American Birds_, Boston, 1872, p. 324. + + Whether Champlain saw this bird as a "stray" on the shores of Cape + Cod, or whether it has since ceased to come in large numbers as far + north as formerly, offers an interesting inquiry for the + ornithologists. Specimens may be seen in the Museum of the Boston + Society of Natural History. + +173. Champlain was clearly correct in his conclusion. The wild Turkey, + _Meleagris gallopavo_, was not uncommon in New England at that + period. Wood and Josselyn and Higginson, all speak of it fully:-- + + "Of these, sometimes there will be forty, threescore and a hundred of + a flocke; sometimes more, and sometimes lesse; their feeding is + Acornes, Hawes, and Berries; some of them get a haunt to frequent our + _English_ corne: In winter, when the snow covers the ground, they + resort to the Sea shore to look for Shrimps, and such small Fishes at + low tides. Such as love Turkie hunting, most follow it in winter after + a new-falne Snow, when hee may followe them by their tracts; some have + killed ten or a dozen in half a day; if they can be found towards an + evening and watched where they peirch, if one come about ten or eleven + of the clock, he may shoote as often as he will, they will sit, + unlesse they be slenderly wounded. These Turkies remaine all the yeare + long, the price of a good Turkey cocke is foure shillings; and he is + well worth it for he may be in weight forty pound: a Hen, two + shillings."--_Wood's New England Prospect_, 1634, Prince Society ed., + Boston, p. 32. + + "The _Turkie_, who is blacker than ours; I haue heard several credible + persons affirm, they haue seen _Turkie Cocks_ that have weighed forty, + yea sixty pound; but out of my personal experimental knowledge I can + assure you, that I haue eaten my share of a _Turkie Cock_, that when + he was pull'd and garbidg'd, weighed thirty [9] pound; and I haue also + seen threescore broods of young _Turkies_ on the side of a marsh, + sunning themselves in a morning betimes, but this was thirty years + since, the _English_ and the _Indians_ having now destroyed the breed, + so that 'tis very rare to meet with a wild _Turkie_ in the Woods: But + some of the _English_ bring up great store of the wild kind, which + remain about their Houses as tame as ours in _England_."--_New + England's Rarities_, by John Josselyn, Gent., London, 1672, + Tuckerman's ed., pp. 41, 42. + + "Here are likewise abundance of Turkies often killed in the Woods, + farre greater then our English Turkies, and exceeding fat, sweet, and + fleshy, for here they haue aboundance of feeding all the yeere long, + as Strawberriees, in Summer at places are full of them and all manner + of Berries and Fruits."--_New England Plantation_, by Francis + Higginson, London, 1630. _Vide_ also _Bradford's Hist. Plym. + Plantation_, 1646, Deane's ed., Boston, 1856. p. 105. + + It appears to be the opinion among recent ornithologists that the + species of turkey, thus early found in New England, was the _Meleagris + Americana_, long since extirpated, and not identical with our + domesticated bird. Our domestic turkey is supposed to have originated + in the West Indies or in Mexico, and to have been transplanted as + tamed to other parts of this continent, and to Europe, and named by + Linnaeus. _Meleagris gallopavo_.--_Vide Report on the Zoology of + Pacific Railroad Routes_, by Baird, Washington, 1858. Vol. IX. Part + II. pp. 613-618; _Coues's Key_, Boston, 1872, pp. 231, 232. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +RETURN FROM THE DISCOVERIES ALONG THE COAST OF THE ALMOUCHIQUOIS. + + +We had spent more than five weeks in going over three degrees of latitude, +and our voyage was limited to six, since we had not taken provisions for a +longer time. In consequence of fogs and storms, we had not been able to go +farther than Mallebarre, where we waited several days for fair weather, in +order to sail. Finding ourselves accordingly pressed by the scantiness of +provisions, Sieur de Monts determined to return to the Island of St. Croix, +in order to find another place more favorable for our settlement, as we had +not been able to do on any of the coasts which we had explored on this +voyage. + +Accordingly, on the 25th of July, we set out from this harbor, in order to +make observations elsewhere. In going out, we came near being lost on the +bar at the entrance, from the mistake of our pilots, Cramolet and +Champdoré, masters of the barque, who had imperfectly marked out the +entrance of the channel on the southern side, where we were to go. Having +escaped this danger, we headed north-east [174] for six leagues, until we +reached Cap Blanc, sailing on from there to Island Cape, a distance of +fifteen leagues, with the same wind. Then we headed east-north-east sixteen +leagues, as far as Choüacoet, where we saw the savage chief, Marchin, [175] +whom we had expected to see at the Lake Quinibequy. He had the reputation +of being one of the valiant ones of his people. He had a fine appearance: +all his motions were dignified, savage as he was. Sieur de Monts gave him +many presents, with which he was greatly pleased; and, in return, Marchin +gave him a young Etechemin boy, whom he had captured in war, and whom we +took away with us; and thus we set out, mutually good friends. We headed +north-east a quarter east for fifteen leagues, as far as Quinibequy, where +we arrived on the 29th of the month, and where we were expecting to find a +savage, named Sasinou, of whom I spoke before. Thinking that he would come, +we waited some time for him, in order to recover from him an Etechemin +young man and girl, whom he was holding as prisoners. While waiting, there +came to us a captain called Anassou, who trafficked a little in furs, and +with whom we made an alliance. He told us that there was a ship, ten +leagues off the harbor, which was engaged in fishing, and that those on her +had killed five savages of this river, under cover of friendship. From his +description of the men on the vessel, we concluded that they were English, +and we named the island where they were La Nef; [176] for, at a distance, +it had the appearance of a ship. Finding that the above-mentioned Sasinou +did not come, we headed east-south-east, [176-1/2] for twenty leagues, to +Isle Haute, where we anchored for the night. + +On the next day, the 1st of August, we sailed east some twenty leagues to +Cap Corneille, [177] where we spent the night. On the 2d of the month, we +sailed north-east seven leagues to the mouth of the river St. Croix, on the +western shore. Having anchored between the two first islands, [178] Sieur +de Monts embarked in a canoe, at a distance of six leagues from the +settlement of St. Croix, where we arrived the next day with our barque. We +found there Sieur des Antons of St. Malo, who had come in one of the +vessels of Sieur de Monts, to bring provisions and also other supplies for +those who were to winter in this country. + +ENDNOTES: + +174. Champlain is in error as to the longitude of Mallebarre, or Nauset + harbor, from which they took their departure on the 25th of July, + 1605. This port is about 38' east of Island Cape, or Cape Anne, and + about 16' east of the western point of Cap Blanc, or Cape Cod; and, to + reach their destination, they must have sailed north-west, and not + north-east, as he erroneously states. + +175. They had failed to meet him at the lake in the Kennebec; namely, + Merrymeeting Bay.--_Vide antea_, p. 60. + +176. The island which they thus named _La Nef_, the Ship, was Monhegan, + about twenty-five nautical miles east from the mouth of the Kennebec, + a mile and a third long, with an elevation at its highest point of a + hundred and forty feet above the level of the sea, and in latitude 43º + 45' 52". Champlain's conjecture as to the nationality of the ship was + correct. It was the "Archangel," commanded by the celebrated explorer, + Captain George Weymouth, who under the patronage of the Earl of + Southampton came to explore our Atlantic coast in the spring of 1605, + for the purpose of selecting a site for an English colony. He anchored + near Monhegan on the 28th of May, N. S.; and, after spending nearly a + month in reconnoitring the islands and mainland in the vicinity, and + capturing five of the natives, he took his departure for England on + the 26th of June. On the 5th of July, just 9 days after Weymouth left + the coast, De Monts and Champlain entered with their little barque the + mouth of the Kennebec. They do not appear to have seen at that time + any of the natives at or about the mouth of the river; and it is not + unlikely that, on account of the seizure and, as they supposed, the + murder of their comrades by Weymouth, they had retired farther up the + river for greater safety. On the return, however, of the French from + Cape Cod, on the 29th of July, Anassou gave them, as stated in the + text, a friendly reception, and related the story of the seizure of + his friends. + + To prevent the interference of other nations, it was the policy of + Weymouth and his patron not to disclose the locality of the region he + had explored; and consequently Rosier, the narrator of the voyage, so + skilfully withheld whatever might clearly identify the place, and + couched his descriptions in such indefinite language, that there has + been and is now a great diversity of opinion on the subject among + local historians. It was the opinion of the Rev. Thomas Prince that + Weymouth explored the Kennebec, or Sagadahoc, and with him coincide + Mr. John McKeen and the Rev. Dr. Ballard, of Brunswick. The + Rev. Dr. Belknap, after satisfactory examinations, decided that it was + the Penobscot; and he is followed by Mr. William Willis, late + President of the Maine Historical Society. Mr. George Prince, of Bath, + has published an elaborate paper to prove that it was St. George's + River; and Mr. David Cushman, of Warren, coincides in this view. Other + writers, not entering into the discussion at length, accept one or + another of the theories above mentioned. It does not fall within the + purview of our present purpose to enter upon the discussion of this + subject. But the statement in the text, not referred to by any of the + above-mentioned writers, "that those on her had killed five savages + _of this river," que ceux de dedans avoient tué cinq sauuages d'icelle + rivière_, can hardly fail to have weight in the decision of this + interesting question. + + The chief Anassou reported that they were "killed," a natural + inference under the circumstances; but in fact they were carefully + concealed in the hold of the ship, and three of them, having been + transported to England and introduced into his family, imparted much + important information to Sir Ferdinando Gorges, whose distinguished + career was afterward so intimately connected with the progress of + American colonization. For the discussion touching the river explored + by Weymouth, _vide Prince's Annals_, 1736, _in loco; Belknap's + American Biography_, 1794, Vol. II., art. Weymouth; _Remarks on the + Voyage of George Waymouth_, by John McKeen, Col. Me. His. Society, + Vol. V. p. 309; _Comments on Waymouth's Voyage_, by William Willis, + idem, p. 344; _Voyage of Captain George Weymouth_, by George Prince, + Col. Me. His. Soc., Vol. VI. p. 293; _Weymouth's Voyage_, by David + Cushman, _idem_, p. 369; _George Weymouth and the Kennebec_, by the + Rev. Edward Ballard, D. D., Memorial Volume of the Popham Celebration, + Portland, 1863, p. 301. + +176-1/2. _We headed east south-east_. It is possible that, on leaving the + mouth of the Kennebec, they sailed for a short distance to the + south-east; but the general course was to the north-east. + +177. _Cap Corneille_, or Crow Cape, was apparently the point of land + advancing out between Machias and Little Machias Bays, including + perhaps Cross Island. De Monts and his party probably anchored and + passed the night in Machias Bay. The position of Cap Corneille may be + satisfactorily fixed by its distance and direction from the Grand + Manan, as seen on Champlain's map of 1612, to which the reader is + referred. + +178. This anchorage was between Campobello and Moose Island, on which is + situated the town of Eastport. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +THE DWELLING-PLACE ON THE ISLAND OF ST. CROIX TRANSFERRED TO PORT ROYAL, +AND THE REASON WHY. + + +Sieur De Monts determined to change his location, and make another +settlement, in order to avoid the severe cold and the bad winter which we +had had in the Island of St. Croix. As we had not, up to that time, found +any suitable harbor, and, in view of the short time we had for building +houses in which to establish ourselves, we fitted out two barques, and +loaded them with the frame-work taken from the houses of St. Croix, in +order to transport it to Port Royal, twenty-five leagues distant, where we +thought the climate was much more temperate and agreeable. Pont Gravé and I +set out for that place; and, having arrived, we looked for a site favorable +for our residence, under shelter from the north-west wind, which we +dreaded, having been very much harassed by it. + +After searching carefully in all directions, we found no place more +suitable and better situated than one slightly elevated, about which there +are some marshes and good springs of water. This place is opposite the +island at the mouth of the river Equille. [179] To the north of us about a +league, there is a range of mountains, [180] extending nearly ten leagues +in a north-east and south-west direction. The whole country is filled with +thick forests, as I mentioned above, except at a point a league and a half +up the river, where there are some oaks, although scattering, and many wild +vines, which one could easily remove and put the soil under cultivation, +notwithstanding it is light and sandy. We had almost resolved to build +there; but the consideration that we should have been too far up the harbor +and river led us to change our mind. + +Recognizing accordingly the site of our habitation as a good one, we began +to clear up the ground, which was full of trees, and to erect houses as +soon as possible. Each one was busy in this work. After every thing had +been arranged, and the majority of the dwellings built, Sieur de Monts +determined to return to France, in order to petition his Majesty to grant +him all that might be necessary for his undertaking. He had desired to +leave Sieur d'Orville to command in this place in his absence. But the +climatic malady, _mal de la terre_, with which he was afflicted would not +allow him to gratify the wish of Sieur de Monts. On this account, a +conference was held with Pont Gravé on the subject, to whom this charge was +offered, which he was happy to accept; and he finished what little of the +habitation remained to be built. I, at the same time, hoping to have an +opportunity to make some new explorations towards Florida, determined to +stay there also, of which Sieur de Monts approved. + +ENDNOTES: + +179. In the original, Champlain has written the name of this river in this + particular instance _Guille_, probably an abbreviation for _Anguille_, + the French name of the fish which we call the eel. Lescarbot says the + "river was named _L'Equille_ because the first fish taken therein was + an _equille_."--Vide antea, note 57. + +180. The elevation of this range varies from six hundred to seven hundred + feet. + + + + +CHAPTER XI + +WHAT TOOK PLACE AFTER THE DEPARTURE OF SIEUR DE MONTS, UNTIL, NO TIDINGS OF +WHAT HE HAD PROMISED BEING RECEIVED, WE DEPARTED FROM PORT ROYAL TO RETURN +TO FRANCE. + + +As soon as Sieur de Monts had departed, a portion of the forty or +forty-five who remained began to make gardens. I, also, for the sake of +occupying my time, made one, which was surrounded with ditches full of +water, in which I placed some fine trout, and into which flowed three +brooks of very fine running water, from which the greater part of our +settlement was supplied. I made also a little sluice-way towards the shore, +in order to draw off the water when I wished. This spot was entirely +surrounded by meadows, where I constructed a summer-house, with some fine +trees, as a resort for enjoying the fresh air. I made there, also, a little +reservoir for holding salt-water fish, which we took out as we wanted them. +I took especial pleasure in it, and planted there some seeds which turned +out well. But much work had to be laid out in preparation. We resorted +often to this place as a pastime; and it seemed as if the little birds +round about took pleasure in it, for they gathered there in large numbers, +warbling and chirping so pleasantly that I think I never heard the like. + +The plan of the settlement was ten fathoms long and eight wide, making the +distance round thirty-six. On the eastern side is a store-house, occupying +the width of it, and a very fine cellar from five to six feet deep. On the +northern side are the quarters of Sieur de Monts, handsomely finished. +About the back yard are the dwellings of the workmen. At a corner of the +western side is a platform, where four cannon were placed; and at the other +corner, towards the east, is a palisade shaped like a platform, as can be +seen from the accompanying illustration. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +L'ABITASION DU PORT ROYAL. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. Dwelling of the artisans. +_B_. Platform where the cannon were placed. +_C_. The store-house. +_D_. Dwelling of Sieur de Pont Gravé and Champlain. +_E_. The blacksmith's shop. +_F_. Palisade of pickets. +_G_. The bakery. +_H_. The kitchen. +_O_. Small house where the equipment of our barques was stored. This Sieur + de Poutrincourt afterwards had rebuilt, and Sieur Boulay dwelt there + when Sieur de Pont Gravé returned to France. +_P_. Gate to our habitation. +_Q_. The Cemetery. +_R_. The River. + +NOTES. The habitation of Port Royal was on the present site of the hamlet +of Lower Granville in Nova Scotia. _I_. Points to the garden-plots. _K_. +Takes the place of _Q_, which is wanting on the map, and marks the place of +the cemetery, where may be seen the crucifix, the death's-head, and +cross-bones. _L_. Takes the place of _R_, which is wanting, to indicate the +river. _M_. Indicates the moat on the north side of the dwelling. _N_. +Probably indicates the dwelling of the gentlemen, De Monts and others. + + * * * * * + +Some days after the buildings were completed, I went to the river St. John +to find the savage named Secondon, the same that conducted Prevert's party +to the copper mine, which I had already gone in search of with Sieur de +Monts, when we were at the Port of Mines, though without success. [181] +Having found him, I begged him to go there with us, which he very readily +consented to do, and proceeded to show it to us. We found there some +little pieces of copper of the thickness of a sou, and others still thicker +imbedded in grayish and red rocks. The miner accompanying us, whose name +was Master Jacques, a native of Sclavonia, a man very skilful in searching +for minerals, made the entire circuit of the hills to see if he could find +any gangue, [182] but without success. Yet he found, some steps from where +we had taken the pieces of copper before mentioned, something like a mine, +which, however, was far from being one. He said that, from the appearance +of the soil, it might prove to be good, if it were worked; and that it was +not probable that there could be pure copper on the surface of the earth, +without there being a large quantity of it underneath. The truth is that, +if the water did not cover the mines twice a day, and if they did not lie +in such hard rocks, something might be expected from them. + +After making this observation, we returned to our settlement, where we +found some of our company sick with the _mal de la terre_, but not so +seriously as at the Island of St. Croix; although, out of our number of +forty-five, twelve died, including the miner, and five were sick, who +recovered the following spring. Our surgeon, named Des Champs, from +Honfleur, skilful in his profession, opened some of the bodies, to see +whether he might be more successful in discovering the cause of the +maladies that our surgeons had been the year before. He found the parts of +the body affected in the same manner as those opened at the Island of +St. Croix, but could discover no means of curing them, any more than the +other surgeons. + +On the 20th of December, it began to snow, and some ice passed along before +our Settlement. The winter was not so sharp as the year before, nor the +snow so deep, or of so long duration. Among other incidents, the wind was +so violent on the 20th of February, 1605, [183] that it blew over a large +number of trees, roots and all, and broke off many others. It was a +remarkable sight. The rains were very frequent; which was the cause of the +mild winter in comparison with the past one, although it is only +twenty-five leagues from Port Royal to St. Croix. + +On the first day of March, Pont Gravé ordered a barque of seventeen or +eighteen tons to be fitted up, which was ready, on the 15th, in order to go +on a voyage of discovery along the coast of Florida. [184] With this view, +we set out on the 16th following, but were obliged to put in at an island +to the south of Manan, having gone that day eighteen leagues. We anchored +in a sandy cove, exposed to the sea and the south wind. [185] The latter +increased, during the night, to such an impetuosity that we could not stand +by our anchor, and were compelled, without choice, to go ashore, at the +mercy of God and the waves. The latter were so heavy and furious that while +we were attaching the buoy to the anchor, so as to cut the cable at the +hawse-hole, it did not give us time, but broke straightway of itself. The +wind and the sea cast us as the wave receded upon a little rock, and we +awaited only the moment to see our barque break up, and to save ourselves, +if possible, upon its fragments. In these desperate straits, after we had +received several waves, there came one so large and fortunate for us that +it carried us over the rock, and threw us on to a little sandy beach, which +insured us for this time from shipwreck. + +The barque being on shore, we began at once to unload what there was in +her, in order to ascertain where the damage was, which was not so great as +we expected. She was speedily repaired by the diligence of Champdoré, her +master. Having been put in order, she was reloaded; and we waited for fair +weather and until the fury of the sea should abate, which was not until the +end of four days, namely, the 21st of March, when we set out from this +miserable place, and proceeded to Port aux Coquilles, [186] seven or eight +leagues distant. The latter is at the mouth of the river St. Croix, where +there was a large quantity of snow. We stayed there until the 29th of the +month, in consequence of the fogs and contrary winds, which are usual at +this season, when Pont Gravé determined to put back to Port Royal, to see +in what condition our companions were, whom we had left there sick. Having +arrived there, Pont Gravé was attacked with illness, which delayed us until +the 8th of April. + +On the 9th of the month he embarked, although still indisposed, from his +desire to see the coast of Florida, and in the belief that a change of air +would restore his health. The same day we anchored and passed the night at +the mouth of the harbor, two leagues distant from our settlement. + +The next morning before day, Champdoré came to ask Pont Gravé if he wished +to have the anchor raised, who replied in the affirmative, if he deemed the +weather favorable for setting out. Upon this, Champdoré had the anchor +raised at once, and the sail spread to the wind, which was +north-north-east, according to his report. The weather was thick and rainy, +and the air full of fog, with indications of foul rather than fair weather. + +While going out of the mouth of the harbor, [187] we were suddenly carried +by the tide out of the passage, and, before perceiving them, were driven +upon the rocks on the east-north-east coast. [188] Pont Gravé and I, who +were asleep, were awaked by hearing the sailors shouting and exclaiming, +"We are lost!" which brought me quickly to my feet, to see what was the +matter. Pont Gravé was still ill, which prevented him from rising as +quickly as he wished. I was scarcely on deck, when the barque was thrown +upon the coast; and the wind, which was north, drove us upon a point. We +unfurled the mainsail, turned it to the wind, and hauled it up as high as +we could, that it might drive us up as far as possible on the rocks, for +fear that the reflux of the sea, which fortunately was falling, would draw +us in, when it would have been impossible to save ourselves. At the first +blow of our boat upon the rocks, the rudder broke, a part of the keel and +three or four planks were smashed, and some ribs stove in, which frightened +us, for our barque filled immediately; and all that we could do was to wait +until the sea fell, so that we might get ashore. For, otherwise, we were in +danger of our lives, in consequence of the swell, which was very high and +furious about us. The sea having fallen, we went on shore amid the storm, +when the barque was speedily unloaded, and we saved a large portion of the +provisions in her, with the help of the savage, Captain Secondon and his +companions, who came to us with their canoes, to carry to our habitation +what we had saved from our barque, which, all shattered as she was, went to +pieces at the return of the tide. But we, most happy at having saved our +lives, returned to our settlement with our poor savages, who stayed there a +large part of the winter; and we praised God for having rescued us from +this shipwreck, from which we had not expected to escape so easily. + +The loss of our barque caused us great regret, since we found ourselves, +through want of a vessel, deprived of the prospect of being able to +accomplish the voyage we had undertaken. And we were unable to build +another; for time was pressing, and although there was another barque on +the stocks, yet it would have required too long to get it ready, and we +could scarcely have made use of it before the return from France of the +vessels we were daily expecting. + +This was a great misfortune, and owing to the lack of foresight on the part +of the master, who was obstinate, but little acquainted with seamanship, +and trusting only his own head. He was a good carpenter, skilful in +building vessels, and careful in provisioning them with all necessaries, +but in no wise adapted to sailing them. + +Pont Gravé, having arrived at the settlement, received the evidence against +Champdoré, who was accused of having run the barque on shore with evil +intent. Upon such information, he was imprisoned and handcuffed, with the +intention of taking him to France and handing him over to Sieur de Monts, +to be treated as justice might direct. + +On the 15th of June, Pont Gravé, finding that the vessels did not return +from France, had the handcuffs taken off from Champdoré, that he might +finish the barque which was on the stocks, which service he discharged very +well. + +On the 16th of July, the time when we were to leave, in case the vessels +had not returned, as was provided in the commission which Sieur de Monts +had given to Pont Gravé, we set out from our settlement to go to Cape +Breton or to Gaspé in search of means of returning to France, since we had +received no intelligence from there. + +Two of our men remained, of their own accord, to take care of the +provisions which were left at the settlement, to each of whom Pont Gravé +promised fifty crowns in money, and fifty more which he agreed to estimate +their pay at when he should come to get them the following year. [189] + +There was a captain of the savages named Mabretou, [190] who promised to +take care of them, and that they should be treated as kindly as his own +children. We found him a friendly savage all the time we were there, +although he had the name of being the worst and most traitorous man of his +tribe. + +ENDNOTES: + +181. _Vide antea_, pp. 25, 26. + +182. _La gangue_. This is the technical word for the matrix, or substance + containing the ore of metals. + +183. For 1605, read 1606. + +184. Florida, as then known, extended from the peninsula indefinitely to + the north. + +185. Seal Cove, which makes up between the south-west end of the Grand + Manan and Wood Island, the latter being South of Manan and is plainly + the island referred to in the text. This cove is open to the South + wind and the sea in a storm. Wood Island has a sandy shore with + occasional rocks. + +186. _Port aux Coquilles_, the harbor of shells. This port was near the + northeastern extremity of Campobello Island, and was probably Head + Harbor, which affords a good harbor of refuge.--_Vide_ Champlain's Map + of 1612, reference 9. + +187. By "harbor" is here meant Annapolis Bay. This wreck of the barque took + place on the Granville side of Digby Strait, where the tides rise from + twenty-three to twenty-Seven feet. + +188. North-east. The text has _norouest_, clearly a misprint for _nordest_. + +189. These two men were M. La Taille and Miquelet, of whom Lescarbot speaks + in terms of enthusiastic praise for their patriotic courage in + voluntarily risking their lives for the good of New France. _Vide + Histoire Nouvelle France_, Paris, 1612, pp. 545, 546. + +190. _Mabretou_, by Lescarbot written Membertou. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +DEPARTURE FROM PORT ROYAL TO RETURN TO FRANCE.--MEETING RALLEAU AT CAPE +SABLE, WHICH CAUSED US TO TURN BACK. + + +On the 17th of the month, in accordance with the resolution we had formed, +we set out from the mouth of Port Royal with two barques, one of eighteen +tons, the other of seven or eight, with the view of pursuing the voyage to +Cape Breton or Canseau. We anchored in the strait of Long Island,[191] +where during the night our cable broke, and we came near being lost, owing +to the violent tides which strike upon several rocky points in and about +this place. But, through the diligent exertions of all, we were saved, and +escaped once more. + +On the 21st of the month there was a violent wind, which broke the irons of +our rudder between Long Island and Cape Fourchu, and reduced us to such +extremities that we were at a loss what to do. For the fury of the sea did +not permit us to land, since the breakers ran mountain high along the +coast, so that we resolved to perish in the sea rather than to land, hoping +that the wind and tempest would abate, so that, with the wind astern, we +might go ashore on some sandy beach. As each one thought by himself what +might be done for our preservation, a sailor said that a quantity of +cordage attached to the stern of our barque, and dragging in the water, +might serve in some measure to steer our vessel. But this was of no avail; +and we saw that, unless God should aid us by other means, this would not +preserve us from shipwreck. As we were thinking what could be done for our +safety, Champdoré, who had been again handcuffed, said to some of us that, +if Pont Gravé desired it, he would find means to steer our barque. This we +reported to Pont Gravé, who did not refuse this offer, and the rest of us +still less. He accordingly had his handcuffs taken off the second time, +and at once taking a rope, he cut it and fastened the rudder with it in +such a skilful manner that it would steer the ship as well as ever. In this +way, he made amends for the mistakes he had made leading to the loss of the +previous barque, and was discharged from his accusation through our +entreaties to Pont Gravé who, although Somewhat reluctantly, acceded to it. + +The same day we anchored near La Baye Courante, [192] two leagues from Cape +Fourchu, and there our barque was repaired. + +On the 23d of July, we proceeded near to Cape Sable. + +On the 24th of the month, at two o'clock in the afternoon, we perceived a +shallop, near Cormorant Island, coming from Cape Sable. Some thought it was +savages going away from Cape Breton or the Island of Canseau. Others said +it might be shallops sent from Canseau to get news of us. Finally, as we +approached nearer, we saw that they were Frenchmen, which delighted us +greatly. When it had almost reached us, we recognized Ralleau, the +Secretary of Sieur de Monts, which redoubled our joy. He informed us that +Sieur de Monts had despatched a vessel of a hundred and twenty tons, +commanded by Sieur de Poutrincourt, who had come with fifty men to act as +Lieutenant-General, and live in the country; that he had landed at Canseau, +whence the above-mentioned vessel had gone out to sea, in order, if +possible, to find us, while he, meanwhile, was proceeding along the coast +in a shallop, in order to meet us in case we should have set out, supposing +we had departed from Port Royal, as was in fact the case: in so doing, they +acted very wisely. All this intelligence caused us to turn back; and we +arrived at Port Royal on the 25th of the month, where we found the +above-mentioned vessel and Sieur de Poutrincourt, and were greatly +delighted to see realized what we had given up in despair. [193] He told us +that his delay had been caused by an accident which happened to the ship in +leaving the boom at Rochelle, where he had taken his departure, and that he +had been hindered by bad weather on his voyage. [194] + +The next day, Sieur de Poutrincourt proceeded to set forth his views as to +what should be done; and, in accordance with the opinion of all, he +resolved to stay at Port Royal this year, inasmuch as no discovery had been +made since the departure of Sieur de Monts, and the period of four months +before winter was not long enough to search out a site and construct +another settlement, especially in a large vessel, unlike a barque which +draws little water, searches everywhere, and finds places to one's mind for +effecting settlements. But he decided that, during this period, nothing +more should be done than to try to find some place better adapted for our +abode. [195] + +Thus deciding, Sieur de Poutrincourt despatched at once some laborers to +work on the land in a spot which he deemed suitable, up the river, a league +and a half from the settlement of Port Royal, and where we had thought of +making our abode. Here he ordered wheat, rye, hemp, and several other kinds +of seeds to be sown, in order to ascertain how they would flourish. [196] + +On the 22d of August, a small barque was seen approaching our settlement. +It was that of Des Antons, of St. Malo, who had come from Canseau, where +his vessel was engaged in fishing, to inform us that there were some +vessels about Cape Breton engaged in the fur-trade; and that, if we would +send our ship, we might capture them on the point of returning to +France. It was determined to do so as soon as some supplies, which were in +the ship, could be unloaded. [197] + +This being done. Pont Gravé embarked, together with his companions, who had +wintered with him at Port Royal, excepting Champdoré and Foulgeré de Vitré. +I also stayed with De Poutrincourt, in order, with God's help, to complete +the map of the coasts and countries which I had commenced. Every thing +being put in order in the settlement. Sieur de Poutrincourt ordered +provisions to be taken on board for our voyage along the coast of Florida. + +On the 29th of August, we set out from Port Royal, as did also Pont Gravé +and Des Antons, who were bound for Cape Breton and Canseau, to seize the +vessels which were engaging in the fur-trade, as I have before stated. +After getting out to sea, we were obliged to put back on account of bad +weather. But the large vessel kept on her course, and we soon lost sight of +her. + +ENDNOTES: + +191. Petit Passage, leading into St. Mary's Bay. + +192. _La Baye Courante_, the bay at the mouth of Argyl or Abuptic River, + sometimes called Lobster Bay.--_Vide Campbell's Yarmouth County_. + N.S., p. 13. The anchorage for the repair of the barque near this bay, + two leagues from Cape Fourchu, was probably near Pinckney Point, or it + may have been under the lee of one of the Tusquet Islands. + +193. Lescarbot, who with De Poutrincourt was in this vessel, the "Jonas," + gives a very elaborate account of their arrival and reception at Port + Royal. It seems that, at Canseau, Poutrincourt, supposing that the + colony at Port Royal, not receiving expected succors, had possibly + already embarked for France, as was in fact the case, had despatched a + small boat in charge of Ralleau to reconnoitre the coast, with the + hope of meeting them, if they had already embarked. The "Jonas" passed + them unobserved, perhaps while they were repairing their barque at + Baye Courante. As Ralleau did not join the "Jonas" till after their + arrival at Port Royal, Poutrincourt did not hear of the departure of + the colony till his arrival. Champlain's dates do not agree with those + of Lescarbot, and the latter is probably correct. According to + Lescarbot, Poutrincourt arrived on the 27th, and Pont Gravé with + Champlain on the 31st of July. _Vide His. Nou. France_, Paris, 1612, + pp. 544, 547. + +194. Lescarbot gives a graphic account of the accident which happened to + their vessel in the harbor of Rochelle, delaying them more than a + month: and the bad weather and the bad seamanship of Captain Foulques, + who commanded the "Jonas," which kept them at sea more than two months + and a half.--_Vide His. Nou. France_, Paris. 1612, p. 523, _et seq._ + +195. Before leaving France, Poutrincourt had received instructions from the + patentee, De Monts to seek for a good harbor and more genial climate + for the colony farther south than Mallebarre, as he was not satisfied + either with St. Croix or Port Royal for a permanent abode.--_Vide + Lescarbot's His. Nou. France_, Paris, 1612, p. 552. + +196. By reference to Champlain's drawing of Port Royal, it will be seen + that the place of this agricultural experiment was on the southern + side of Annapolis River, near the mouth of Alien River, and on the + identical soil where the village of Annapolis now stands. + +197. It appears that this fur-trader was one Boyer, of Rouen, who had been + delivered from prison at Rochelle by Poutrincourt's lenity, where he + had been incarcerated probably for the same offence. They did not + succeed in capturing him at Canseau.--_Vide His. Nou. France_, par + Lescarbot, Paris, 1612, p. 553. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +SIEUR DE POUTRINCOURT SETS OUT FROM PORT ROYAL TO MAKE DISCOVERIES.--ALL +THAT WAS SEEN, AND WHAT TOOK PLACE AS FAR AS MALLEBARRE. + + +On the 5th of September, we set out again from Port Royal. + +On the 7th, we reached the mouth of the river St. Croix, where we found a +large number of savages, among others Secondon and Messamouët. We came +near being lost there on a rocky islet, on account of Champdoré's usual +obstinacy. + +The next day we proceeded in a shallop to the Island of St. Croix, where +Sieur de Monts had wintered, to see if we could find any spikes of wheat +and other seeds which we had planted there. We found some wheat which had +fallen on the ground, and come up as finely as one could wish; also a large +number of garden vegetables, which also had come up fair and large. It gave +us great satisfaction to see that the soil there was good and fertile. + +After visiting the island, we returned to our barque, which was one of +eighteen tons, on the way catching a large number of mackerel, which are +abundant there at this season. It was decided to continue the voyage along +the coast, which was not a very well-considered conclusion, since we lost +much time in passing over again the discoveries made by Sieur de Monts as +far as the harbor of Mallebarre. It would have been much better, in my +opinion, to cross from where we were directly to Mallebarre, the route +being already known, and then use our time in exploring as far as the +fortieth degree, or still farther south, revisiting, upon our homeward +voyage, the entire coast at pleasure. + +After this decision, we took with us Secondon and Messamouët, who went as +far as Choüacoet in a shallop, where they wished to make an alliance with +the people of the country, by offering them some presents. + +On the 12th of September, we set out from the river St. Croix. + +On the 21st, we arrived at Choüacoet, where we saw Onemechin, chief of the +river, and Marchin, who had harvested their corn. We saw at the Island of +Bacchus [198] some grapes which were ripe and very good, and some others +not yet ripe, as fine as those in France; and I am sure that, if they were +cultivated, they would produce good wine. + +In this place. Sieur de Poutrincourt secured a prisoner that Onemechin had, +to whom Messamouët [199] made presents of kettles, hatchets, knives, and +other things. Onemechin reciprocated the same with Indian corn, squashes, +and Brazilian beans; which was not very satisfactory to Messamouët, who +went away very ill-disposed towards them for not properly recognizing his +presents, and with the intention of making war upon them in a short time. +For these nations give only in exchange for something in return, except to +those who have done them a special service, as by assisting them in their +wars. + +Continuing our course, we proceeded to the Island Cape, [200] where we +encountered rather bad weather and fogs, and saw little prospect of being +able to spend the night under shelter, since the locality was not favorable +for this. While we were thus in perplexity, it occurred to me that, while +coasting along with Sieur de Monts, I had noted on my map, at a distance of +a league from here, a place which seemed suitable for vessels, but which we +did not enter, because, when we passed it, the wind was favorable for +continuing on our course. This place we had already passed, which led me +to suggest to Sieur de Poutrincourt that we should stand in for a point in +sight, where the place in question was, which seemed to me favorable for +passing the night. We proceeded to anchor at the mouth, and went in the +next day. [201] + +Sieur de Poutrincourt landed with eight or ten of our company. We saw some +very fine grapes just ripe, Brazilian peas, [202] pumpkins, squashes, and +very good roots, which the savages cultivate, having a taste similar to +that of chards. [203] They made us presents of some of these, in exchange +for little trifles which we gave them. They had already finished their +harvest. We saw two hundred savages in this very pleasant place; and there +are here a large number [204] of very fine walnut-trees, [205] cypresses, +sassafras, oaks, ashes, and beeches. The chief of this place is named +Quiouhamenec, who came to see us with a neighbor of his, named Cohoüepech, +whom we entertained sumptuously. Onemechin, chief of Choüacoet, came also +to see us, to whom we gave a coat, which he, however, did not keep a long +time, but made a present of it to another, since he was uneasy in it, and +could not adapt himself to it. We saw also a savage here, who had so +wounded himself in the foot, and lost so much blood, that he fell down in a +swoon. Many others surrounded him, and sang some time before touching him. +Afterwards, they made some motions with their feet and hands, shook his +head and breathed upon him, when he came to himself. Our surgeon dressed +his wounds, when he went off in good spirits. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +LE BEAU PORT. [Note: _Le Beau Port_ is Gloucester.] + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. Place where our barque was. +_B_. Meadows. +_C_. Small island. [Note: Ten-Pound Island. It is forty rods long and + thirty feet high. On it is a U. S. Light, fifty feet above the + sea-level.] +_D_. Rocky cape. + +_E_. Place where we had our shallop calked. [Note: This peninsula is now + called Rocky Neck. Its southern part and the causeway which connects + it with the main land are now thickly settled.] +_F_. Little rocky islet, very high on the coast. [Note: This is Salt + Island.] +_G_. Cabins of the savages and where they till the soil. +_H_. Little river where there are meadows. [Note: This is the small stream + that flows into Fresh-Water Cove.] +_I_. Brook. +_L_. Tongue of land covered with trees, including a large number of + sassafras, walnut-trees, and vines. [Note: This is now called Eastern + Point, is three quarters of a mile long, and about half a mile in its + greatest width. At its southern extremity is a U. S. Light, sixty feet + above the sea-level. The scattering rocks figured by Champlain on its + western shore are now known as Black Bess.] +_M_. Arm of the sea on the other side of the Island Cape. [Note: Squam + River, flowing into Annisquam Harbor.] +_N_. Little River. +_O_. Little brook coming from the meadows. +_P_. Another little brook where we did our washing. +_Q_. Troop of savages coming to surprise us. [Note: They were creeping + along the eastern bank of Smith's Cove.] +_R_. Sandy strand. [Note: The beach of South-East Harbor.] +_S_. Sea-coast. +_T_. Sieur de Poutrincourt in ambuscade with some seven or eight + arquebusiers. +_V_. Sieur de Champlain discovering the savages. + +NOTES: A comparison of his map with the Coast Survey Charts will exhibit +its surprising accuracy, especially when we make allowance for the fact +that it is merely a sketch executed without measurements, and with a very +brief visit to the locality. The projection or cape west of Ten-Pound +Island, including Stage Head, may be easily identified, as likewise Fort +Point directly north of the same island, as seen on our maps, but +north-west on that of Champlain, showing that his map is oriented with an +inclination to the west. The most obvious defect is the foreshortening of +the Inner Harbor, which requires much greater elongation. + + * * * * * + +The next day, as we were calking our shallop, Sieur de Poutrincourt in the +woods noticed a number of savages who were going, with the intention of +doing us some mischief, to a little stream, where a neck connects with the +main land, at which our party were doing their washing. As I was walking +along this neck, these savages noticed me; and, in order to put a good face +upon it, since they saw that I had discovered them thus seasonably, they +began to shout and dance, and then came towards me with their bows, arrows, +quivers, and other arms. And, inasmuch as there was a meadow between them +and myself, I made a sign to them to dance again. This they did in a +circle, putting all their arms in the middle. But they had hardly +commenced, when they observed Sieur de Poutrincourt in the wood with eight +musketeers, which frightened them. Yet they did not stop until they had +finished their dance, when they withdrew in all directions, fearing lest +some unpleasant turn might be served them. We said nothing to them, +however, and showed them only demonstrations of gladness. Then we returned +to launch our shallop, and take our departure. They entreated us to wait a +day, saying that more than two thousand of them would come to see us. But, +unable to lose any time, we were unwilling to stay here longer. I am of +opinion that their object was to surprise us. Some of the land was already +cleared up, and they were constantly making clearings. Their mode of doing +it is as follows: after cutting down the trees at the distance of three +feet from the ground, they burn the branches upon the trunk, and then plant +their corn between these stumps, in course of time tearing up also the +roots. There are likewise fine meadows here, capable of supporting a large +number of cattle. This harbor is very fine, containing water enough for +vessels, and affording a shelter from the weather behind the islands. It is +in latitude 43°, and we gave it the name of Le Beauport. [206] + +The last day of September we set out from Beauport, and, passing Cap +St. Louis, stood on our course all night for Cap Blanc. [207] In the +morning, an hour before daylight we found ourselves to the leeward of Cap +Blanc, in Baye Blanche, with eight feet of water, and at a distance of a +league from the shore. Here we anchored, in order not to approach too near +before daylight, and to see how the tide was. Meanwhile, we sent our +shallop to make soundings. Only eight feet of water were found, so that it +was necessary to determine before daylight what we would do. The water sank +as low as five feet, and our barque sometimes touched on the sand, yet +without any injury, for the water was calm, and we had not less than three +feet of water under us. Then the tide began to rise, which gave us +encouragement. + +When it was day, we saw a very low, sandy shore, off which we were, and +more to the leeward. A shallop was sent to make soundings in the direction +of land somewhat high, where we thought there would be deep water; and, in +fact, we found seven fathoms. Here we anchored, and at once got ready the +shallop, with nine or ten men to land and examine a place where we thought +there was a good harbor to shelter ourselves in, if the wind should +increase. An examination having been made, we entered in two, three, and +four fathoms of water. When we were inside, we found five and six. There +were many very good oysters here, which we had not seen before, and we +named the place Port aux Huistres. [208] It is in latitude 42°. Three +canoes of savages came out to us. On this day, the wind coming round in our +favor, we weighed anchor to go to Cap Blanc, distant from here five leagues +north a quarter north-east, and we doubled the cape. + +On the next day, the 2d of October, we arrived off Mallebarre, [209] where +we stayed some time on account of the bad weather. During this time, Sieur +de Poutrincourt, with the shallop, accompanied by twelve or fifteen men, +visited the harbor, where some hundred and fifty savages, singing and +dancing according to their custom, appeared before him. After seeing this +place, we returned to our vessel, and, the wind coming favorable, sailed +along the coast towards the south. + +ENDNOTES: + +198. Richmond Island.--_Vide antea_, note 123. The ripe grapes which he saw + were the Fox Grape. _Vitis labrusca_, which ripens in September. The + fruit is of a dark purple color, tough and musky. The Isabella, common + in our markets, is derived from it. It is not quite clear whether + those seen in an unripe state were another species or not. If they + were, they were the Frost Grape, _Vitis cardifolia_, which are found + in the northern parts of New England. The berry is small, black or + blue, having a bloom, highly acid, and ripens after frosts. This + island, so prolific in grapes, became afterward a centre of commercial + importance. On Josselyn's voyage of 1638, he says: "The Six and + twentieth day, Capt. _Thomas Cammock_ went aboard of a Barke of 300 + Tuns, laden with Island Wine, and but 7 men in her, and never a Gun, + bound for Richmond's Island, Set out by Mr. _Trelaney, of Plimouth_"-- + _Voyages_, 1675, Boston, Veazie's ed., 1865, p. 12. + +199. Messamouët was a chief from the Port de la Hève, and was accompanied + by Secondon, also a chief from the river St. John. They had come to + Saco to dispose of a quantity of goods which they had obtained from + the French fur-traders. Messamouët made an address on the occasion, in + which he stated that he had been in France, and had been entertained + at the house of Mons. de Grandmont, governor of Bavonne.--_Vide + His. Nou. France_, par Lescarbot, Paris, 1612, p. 559, _et seq._ + +200. Cape Anne. + +201. Gloucester Bay, formerly called Cape Anne Harbor, which, as we shall + see farther on, they named _Beauport_, the beautiful harbor. + +202. Brazilian peas. This should undoubtedly read Brazilian beans. _Pois du + Brésil_ is here used apparently by mistake for _febues de Brésil_.-- + Vide antea, note 127. + +203. Chards, a vegetable dill, composed of the footstocks and midrib of + artichokes, cardoons, or white beets. The "very good roots," _des + racines qui font bonnes_, were Jerusalem Artichokes, _Helianthus + tuberofus_, indigenous to the northern part of this continent. The + Italians had obtained it before Champlain's time, and named it + _Girasole_, their word for sunflower, of which the artichoke is a + species. This word, _girasole_, has been singularly corrupted in + England into _Jerusalem_; hence Jerusalem artichoke, now the common + name of this plant. We presume that there is no instance on record of + its earlier cultivation in New England than at Nauset in 1605, _vide + antea_, p. 82, and here at Gloucester in 1606. + +204. Under the word _noyers_, walnut-trees, Champlain may have comprehended + the hickories, _Carya alba_ and _porcina_, and perhaps the butternut, + _Juglans cinerea_, all of which might have been seen at Gloucester. It + is clear from his description that he saw at Saco the hickory, _Carya + porcina_, commonly known as the pig-nut or broom hickory. He probably + saw likewise the shag bark, _Carya alba_, as both are found growing + wild there even at the present day.--_Vide antea_, p. 67. Both the + butternut and the hickories are exclusively of American origin; and + there was no French name by which they could be more accurately + designated. _Noyer_ is applied in France to the tree which produces + the nut known in our markets as the English walnut. Josselyn figures + the hickory under the name of walnut.--_Vide New Eng. Rarities_, + Tuckerman's ed., p. 97. See also _Wood's New Eng. Prospect, 1634, + Prince Soc. ed., p. 18. + +205. The trees here mentioned are such probably as appeared to Champlain + especially valuable for timber or other practical uses. + + The cypress, _cyprès_, has been already referred to in note 168. It is + distinguished for its durability, its power of resisting the usual + agencies of decay, and is widely used for posts, and sleepers on the + track of railways, and to a limited extent for cabinet work, but less + now than in earlier times. William Wood says of it: "This wood is more + desired for ornament than substance, being of color red and white, + like Eugh, smelling as sweet as Iuniper; it is commonly used for + seeling of houses, and making of Chests, boxes and staves."--_Wood's + New Eng. Prospect_, 1634, Prince Soc. ed., p. 19. + + The sassafras, _Sassafras officinate_, is indigenous to this + continent, and has a spicy, aromatic flavor, especially the bark and + root. It was in great repute as a medicine for a long time after the + discovery of this country. Cargoes of it were often taken home by the + early voyagers for the European markets; and it is said to have sold + as high as fifty livres per pound. Dr. Jacob Bigelow says a work + entitled "Sassafrasologia" was written to celebrate its virtues; but + its properties are only those of warm aromatics. Josselyn describes + it, and adds that it does not "grow beyond Black Point eastward," + which is a few miles north-east of Old Orchard Beach, near Saco, in + Maine. It is met with now infrequently in New England; several + specimens, however, may be seen in the Granary Burial Ground in + Boston. + + Oaks, _chesnes_, of which several of the larger species may have been + seen: as, the white oak, _Quercus alba_; black oak, _Quercus + tinfloria_; Scarlet oak, _Quercus coccinea_; and red oak, _Quercus + rubra_. + + Ash-trees, _fresnes_, probably the white ash, _Fraxinus Americana_, + and not unlikely the black ash, _Fraxinus sambucifolia_, both valuable + as timber. + + Beech-trees, _hestres_, of which there is but a single Species, _Fagus + ferruginca_, the American beech, a handsome tree, of symmetrical + growth, and clean, smooth, ash-gray bark: the nut, of triangular + shape, is sweet and palatable. The wood is brittle, and used only for + a few purposes. + +206. Le Beauport. The latitude of Ten-Pound Island, near where the French + barque was anchored in the Harbor of Gloucester, is 42° 36' 5". + +207. The reader may be reminded that Cap St. Louis is Brant Point; Cap + Blanc is Cape Cod; and Baye Blanche is Cape Cod Bay. + +208. _Le Port aux Huistres_, Oyster Harbor. The reader will observe, by + looking back a few sentences in the narrative, that the French + coasters, after leaving Cap St. Louis, that is, Brant Point, had aimed + to double Cape Cod, and had directed their course, as they supposed, + to accomplish this purpose. Owing, however, to the strength of the + wind, or the darkness of the night, or the inattention of their pilot, + or all these together, they had passed to the leeward of the point + aimed at, and before morning found themselves near a harbor, which + they subsequently entered, in Cape Cod Bay. It is plain that this + port, which they named Oyster Harbor, was either that of Wellfleet or + Barnstable. The former, it will be remembered, Champlain, with De + Monts, entered the preceding year, 1605, and named it, or the river + that flows into it, St. Suzanne du Cap Blanc.--_Vide antea_, note + 166. It is obvious that Champlain could not have entered this harbor + the second time without recognizing it: and, if he had done so, he + would not have given to it a name entirely different from that which + he had given it the year before. He was too careful an observer to + fall into such an extraordinary mistake. We may conclude, therefore, + that the port in question was not Wellfleet, but Barnstable. This + conclusion is sustained by the conditions mentioned in the text. They + entered, on a flood-tide, in twelve, eighteen, and twenty-four feet of + water, and found thirty or thirty-six when they had passed into the + harbor. It could hardly be expected that any harbor among the shifting + sands of Cape Cod would remain precisely the same, as to depth of + water, after the lapse of two hundred and fifty years. Nevertheless, + the discrepancy is so slight in this case, that it would seem to be + accidental, rather than to arise from the solidity or fixedness of the + harbor-bed. The channel of Barnstable Harbor, according to the Coast + Survey Charts, varies in depth at low tide, for two miles outside of + Sandy Neck Point, from seven to ten feet for the first mile, and for + the next mile from ten feet to thirty-two on reaching Beach Point, + which may be considered the entrance of the bay. On passing the Point, + we have thirty-six and a half feet, and for a mile inward the depth + varies from twelve to twenty feet. Add a few feet for the rise of the + tide on which they entered, and the depth of the water in 1606 could + not have been very different from that of to-day. The "low sandy + coast" which they saw is well represented by Spring Hill Beach and + Sandy Neck; the "land somewhat high," by the range of hills in the + rear of Barnstable Harbor. The distance from the mouth of the harbor + to Wood End light, the nearest point on Cape Cod, does not vary more + than a league, and its direction is about that mentioned by + Champlain. The difference in latitude is not greater than usual. It is + never sufficiently exact for the identification of any locality. The + substantial agreement, in so many particulars with the narrative of + the author, renders it quite clear that the _Port aux Huistres_ was + Barnstable Harbor. They entered it on the morning of the 1st of + October, and appear to have left on the same day. Sandy Neck light, at + the entrance of the harbor, is in latitude 41° 43' 19". + +209. Nauset Harbor. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +CONTINUATION OF THE ABOVE DISCOVERIES, AND WHAT WAS OBSERVED OF PARTICULAR +IMPORTANCE. + + +When we were some six leagues from Mallebarre, we anchored near the coast, +the wind not being fair, along which we observed columns of smoke made by +the savages, which led us to determine to go to them, for which purpose the +shallop was made ready. But when near the coast, which is sandy, we could +not land, for the swell was too great. Seeing this, the savages launched a +canoe, and came out to us, eight or nine of them, singing and making signs +of their joy at seeing us, and they indicated to us that lower down there +was a harbor where we could put our barque in a place of security. Unable +to land, the shallop came back to the barque; and the savages, whom we had +treated civilly, returned to the shore. + +On the next day, the wind being favorable, we continued our course to the +north [210] five leagues, and hardly had we gone this distance, when we +found three and four fathoms of water at a distance of a league and a half +from the shore. On going a little farther, the depth suddenly diminished +to a fathom and a half and two fathoms, which alarmed us, since we saw the +sea breaking all around, but no passage by which we could retrace our +course, for the wind was directly contrary. + +Accordingly being shut in among the breakers and sand-banks, we had to go +at hap-hazard where there seemed to be the most water for our barque, which +was at most only four feet: we continued among these breakers until we +found as much as four feet and a half. Finally, we succeeded, by the grace +of God, in going over a sandy point running out nearly three leagues +seaward to the south-south-east, and a very dangerous place. [211] Doubling +this cape, which we named Cap Batturier, [212] which is twelve or thirteen +leagues from Mallebarre, [213] we anchored in two and a half fathoms of +water, since we saw ourselves surrounded on all sides by breakers and +shoals, except in some places where the sea was breaking to go to a place, +which, we concluded to be that which the savages had indicated. We also +thought there was a river there, where we could lie in security. + +When our shallop arrived there, our party landed and examined the place, +and, returning with a savage whom they brought off, they told us that we +could enter at full tide, which was resolved upon. We immediately weighed +anchor, and, under the guidance of the savage who piloted us, proceeded to +anchor at a roadstead before the harbor, in six fathoms of water and a good +bottom; [214] for we could not enter, as the night overtook us. + +On the next day, men were sent to set stakes at the end of a sand-bank +[215] at the mouth of the harbor, when, the tide rising, we entered in two +fathoms of water. When we had arrived, we praised God for being in a place +of safety. Our rudder had broken, which we had mended with ropes; but we +were afraid that, amid these shallows and strong tides, it would break +anew, and we should be lost. Within this harbor [216] there is only a +fathom of water, and two at full tide. On the east, there is a bay +extending back on the north some three leagues, [217] in which there is an +island and two other little bays which adorn the landscape, where there is +a considerable quantity of land cleared up, and many little hills, where +they cultivate corn and the various grains on which they live. There are, +also, very fine vines, many walnut-trees, oaks, cypresses, but only a few +pines. [218] All the inhabitants of this place are very fond of +agriculture, and provide themselves with Indian corn for the winter, which +they store in the following manner:-- + +They make trenches in the sand on the slope of the hills, some five to six +feet deep, more or less. Putting their corn and other grains into large +grass sacks, they throw them into these trenches, and cover them with sand +three or four feet above the surface of the earth, taking it out as their +needs require. In this way, it is preserved as well as it would be possible +to do in our granaries. [219] + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +_PORT FORTUNÉ_. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. Pond of salt water. [Note: This is now called Oyster Pond.] +_B_. Cabins of the Savages and the lands they cultivate. +_C_. Meadows where there are two little brooks. +_C_. Meadows on the island, that are covered at every tide. [Note: The + letter _C_ appears twice in the index, but both are wanting on the + map. The former seems to point to the meadows on the upper left-hand + corner: the other should probably take the place of the _O_ on the + western part of the island above _F_.] +_D_. Small mountain ranges on the island, that are covered with trees, + vines, and plum-trees. [Note: This range of hills is a marked feature + of the island.] +_E_. Pond of fresh water, where there is plenty of game. [Note: This pond + is still distinguished for its game, and is leased by gentlemen in + Boston and held as a preserve.] +_F_. A kind of meadow on the island. [Note: This is known as Morris Island; + but the strait on the north of it has been filled up, and the island + is now a part of the main land.] +_G_. An island covered with wood in a great arm of the sea. [Note: This + island has been entirely obliterated, and the neck on the north has + likewise been swept away, and the bay now extends several leagues + farther north. The destruction of the island was completed in 1851, in + the gale that swept away Minot's Light. In 1847, it had an area of + thirteen acres and an elevation of twenty feet.--_Vide Harbor + Com. Report, 1873.] +_H_. A sort of pond of salt water, where there are many shell-fish, and, + among others, quantities of oysters. [Note: This is now called the + Mill Pond.] +_I_. Sandy downs on a narrow tongue of land. +_L_. Arm of the sea. +_M_. Roadstead before the harbor where we anchored. [Note: Chatham Roads, + or Old Stage Harbor.] +_N_. Entrance to the harbor. +_O_. The harbor and place where our barque was. +_P_. The cross we planted. +_Q_. Little brook. +_R_. Mountain which is seen at a great distance. [Note: A moderate + elevation, by no means a mountain in our sense of the word.] +_S_. Sea-shore. +_T_. Little river. +_V_. Way we went in their country among their dwellings: it is indicated by + small dots. [Note: The circuit here indicated is about four or five + miles. Another path is indicated in the same manner on the extreme + northern end of the map, which shows that their excursions had been + extensive.] +_X_. Banks and shoals. +_Y_. Small mountain seen in the interior. [Note: This is now called the + Great Chatham Hill, and is a conspicuous landmark.] +_Z_. Small brooks. +_9_. Spot near the cross where the savages killed our men. [Note: This is a + creek up which the tide sets. The other brook figured on the map a + little south of the cross has been artificially filled up, but the + marshes which it drained are still to be seen. These landmarks enable + us to fix upon the locality of the cross within a few feet.] + + * * * * * + +We saw in this place some five to six hundred savages, all naked except +their sexual parts, which they cover with a small piece of doe or +seal-skin. The women are also naked, and, like the men, cover theirs with +skins or leaves. They wear their hair carefully combed and twisted in +various ways, both men and women, after the manner of the savages of +Choüacoet. [220] Their bodies are well-proportioned, and their skin +olive-colored. They adorn themselves with feathers, beads of shell, and +other gewgaws, which they arrange very neatly in embroidery work. As +weapons, they have bows, arrows, and clubs. They are not so much great +hunters as good fishermen and tillers of the land. + +In regard to their police, government, and belief, we have been unable to +form a judgment; but I suppose that they are not different in this respect +from our savages, the Souriquois and Canadians, who worship neither the +moon nor the sun, nor any thing else, and pray no more than the beasts. +[221] There are, however, among them some persons, who, as they say, are in +concert with the devil, in whom they have great faith. They tell them all +that is to happen to them, but in so doing lie for the most part. Sometimes +they succeed in hitting the mark very well, and tell them things similar to +those which actually happen to them. For this reason, they have faith in +them, as if they were prophets; while they are only impostors who delude +them, as the Egyptians and Bohemians do the simple villagers. They have +chiefs, whom they obey in matters of war, but not otherwise, and who engage +in labor, and hold no higher rank than their companions. Each one has only +so much land as he needs for his support. + +Their dwellings are separate from each other, according to the land which +each one occupies. They are large, of a circular shape, and covered with +thatch made of grasses or the husks of Indian corn. [222] They are +furnished only with a bed or two, raised a foot from the ground, made of a +number of little pieces of wood pressed against each other, on which they +arrange a reed mat, after the Spanish style, which is a kind of matting two +or three fingers thick: on these they sleep. [223] They have a great many +fleas in summer, even in the fields. One day as we went out walking, we +were beset by so many of them that we were obliged to change our clothes. + +All the harbors, bays, and coasts from Choüacoet are filled with every +variety of fish, like those which we have before our habitation, and in +such abundance that I can confidently assert that there was not a day or +night when we did not see and hear pass by our barque more than a thousand +porpoises, which were chasing the smaller fry. There are also many +shell-fish of various sorts, principally oysters. Game birds are very +plenty. + +It would be an excellent place to erect buildings and lay the foundations +of a State, if the harbor were somewhat deeper and the entrance safer. +Before leaving the harbor, the rudder was repaired; and we had some bread +made from flour, which we had brought for our subsistence, in case our +biscuit should give out. Meanwhile, we sent the shallop with five or six +men and a savage to see whether a passage might be found more favorable for +our departure than that by which we had entered. + +After they had gone five or six leagues and were near the land, the savage +made his escape [224], since he was afraid of being taken to other savages +farther south, the enemies of his tribe, as he gave those to understand who +were in the shallop. The latter, upon their return, reported that, as far +as they had advanced, there were at least three fathoms of water, and that +farther on there were neither shallows nor reefs. + +We accordingly made haste to repair our barque, and make a supply of bread +for fifteen days. Meanwhile, Sieur de Poutrincourt, accompanied by ten or +twelve arquebusiers, visited all the neighboring country, which is very +fine, as I have said before, and where we saw here and there a large number +of little houses. + +Some eight or nine days after, while Sieur de Poutrincourt was walking out, +as he had previously done, [225] we observed the Savages taking down their +cabins and sending their women, children, provisions, and other necessaries +of life into the woods. This made us suspect some evil intention, and that +they purposed to attack those of our company who were working on shore, +where they stayed at night in order to guard that which could not be +embarked at evening except with much trouble. This proved to be true; for +they determined among themselves, after all their effects had been put in a +place of security, to come and surprise those on land, taking advantage of +them as much as possible, and to carry off all they had. But, if by chance +they should find them on their guard, they resolved to come with signs of +friendship, as they were wont to do, leaving behind their bows and arrows. + +Now, in view of what Sieur de Poutrincourt had seen, and the order which it +had been told him they observed when they wished to play some bad trick, +when we passed by some cabins, where there was a large number of women, we +gave them some bracelets and rings to keep them quiet and free from fear, +and to most of the old and distinguished men hatchets, knives, and other +things which they desired. This pleased them greatly, and they repaid it +all in dances, gambols, and harangues, which we did not understand at all. +We went wherever we chose without their having the assurance to say any +thing to us. It pleased us greatly to see them; show themselves so simple +in appearance. + +We returned very quietly to our barque, accompanied by some of the savages. +On the way, we met several small troops of them, who gradually gathered +together with their arms, and were greatly astonished to see us so far in +the interior, and did not suppose that we had just made a circuit of nearly +four or five leagues about their territory. Passing near us, they trembled +with fear, lest harm should be done them, as it was in our power to do. But +we did them none, although we knew their evil intentions. Having arrived +where our men were working, Sieur de Poutrincourt inquired if every thing +was in readiness to resist the designs of this rabble. + +He ordered every thing on shore to be embarked. This was done, except that +he who was making the bread stayed to finish a baking, and two others with +him. They were told that the savages had some evil intent, and that they +should make haste to embark the coming evening, since they carried their +plans into execution only at night, or at daybreak, which in their plots is +generally the hour for making a surprise. + +Evening having come, Sieur de Poutrincourt gave orders that the shallop +should be sent ashore to get the men who remained. This was done as soon as +the tide would permit, and those on shore were told that they must embark +for the reason assigned. This they refused in spite of the remonstrances +that were made setting forth the risks they ran and the disobedience to +their chief. They paid no attention to it, with the exception of a servant +of Sieur de Poutrincourt, who embarked. Two others disembarked from the +shallop and went to the three on shore, who had stayed to eat some cakes +made at the same time with the bread. + +But, as they were unwilling to do as they were told, the shallop returned +to the vessel. It was not mentioned to Sieur de Poutrincourt, who had +retired, thinking that all were on board. + +The next day, in the morning, the 15th of October, the savages did not fail +to come and see in what condition our men were, whom they found asleep, +except one, who was near the fire. When they saw them in this condition, +they came, to the number of four hundred, softly over a little hill, and +sent them such a volley of arrows that to rise up was death. Fleeing the +best they could towards our barque, shouting, "Help! they are killing us!" +a part fell dead in the water; the others were all pierced with arrows, and +one died in consequence a short time after. The savages made a desperate +noise with roarings, which it was terrible to hear. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +THE ATTACK AT PORT FORTUNE. + +The figures indicate fathoms of water. + +_A_. Place where the French were making bread. +_B_. The savages surprising the French, and shooting their arrows at them. +_C_. French burned by the Savages. +_D_. The French fleeing to the barque, completely covered with arrows. +_E_. Troops of savages burning the French whom they had killed. +_F_. Mountain bordering on the harbor. +_G_. Cabins of the savages. +_H_. French on the shore charging upon the Savages. +_I_. Savages routed by the French. +_L_. Shallop in which were the French. +_M_. Savages around our shallop, who were surprised by our men. +_N_. Barque of Sieur de Poutrincourt. +_O_. The harbor. +_P_. Small brook. +_Q_. French who fell dead in the water as they were trying to flee to the + barque. +_R_. Brook coming from certain marshes. +_S_. Woods under cover of which the savages came. + + * * * * * + +Upon the occurrence of this noise and that of our men, the sentinel, on our +vessel, exclaimed, "To arms! They are killing our men!" Consequently, each +one immediately seized his arms; and we embarked in the shallop, some +fifteen or sixteen of us, in order to go ashore. But, being unable to get +there on account of a sand-bank between us and the land, we threw ourselves +into the water, and waded from this bank to the shore, the distance of a +musket-shot. As soon as we were there, the savages, seeing us within arrow +range, fled into the interior. To pursue them was fruitless, for they are +marvellously swift. All that we could do was to carry away the dead bodies +and bury them near a cross, which had been set up the day before, and then +to go here and there to see if we could get sight of any of them. But it +was time wasted, therefore we came back. Three hours afterwards, they +returned to us on the sea-shore. We discharged at them several shots from +our little brass cannon; and, when they heard the noise, they crouched down +on the ground to avoid the fire. In mockery of us, they beat down the cross +and disinterred the dead, which displeased us greatly, and caused us to go +for them a second time; but they fled, as they had done before. We set up +again the cross, and reinterred the dead, whom they had thrown here and +there amid the heath, where they kindled a fire to burn them. We returned +without any result, as we had done before, well aware that there was +scarcely hope of avenging ourselves this time, and that we should have to +renew the undertaking when it should please God. + +On the 16th of the month, we set out from Port Fortuné, to which we had +given this name on account of the misfortune which happened to us there. +This place is in latitude 41° 20', and some twelve or thirteen leagues from +Mallebarre. [226] + +ENDNOTES: + +210. Clearly a mistake. Champlain here says they "continued their course + north," whereas, the whole context shows that they must have gone + south. + +211. "The sandy point" running out nearly three leagues was evidently the + island of Monomoy, or its representative, which at that time may have + been only a continuation of the main land. Champlain does not + delineate on his map an island, but a sand-bank nearly in the shape of + an isosceles triangle, which extends far to the south-east. Very great + changes have undoubtedly taken place on this part of the coast since + the visit of Champlain. The sand-bar figured by him has apparently + been swept from the south-east round to the south-west, and is perhaps + not very much changed in its general features except as to its + position. "We know from our studies of such shoals," says + Prof. Mitchell, Chief of Physical Hydrography, U. S. Coast Survey, + "that the relative order of banks and beaches remains about the same, + however the system as a whole may change its location."--_Mass. + Harbor Commissioners' Report_. 1873, p. 99. + +212. _Batturier_. This word is an adjective, formed with the proper + termination from the noun, _batture_, which means a bank upon which + the sea beats, reef or sand-bank. _Cap Batturier_ may therefore be + rendered sand-bank cape, or the cape of the sand-banks. _Batturier_ + does not appear in the dictionaries, and was doubtless coined by + Champlain himself, as he makes, farther on, the adjective _truitière_, + in the expression _la rivière truitière_, from the noun, _truite_. + +213. The distances here given appear to be greatly overstated. From Nauset + to the southern point of Monomoy, as it is to-day, the distance is not + more than six leagues. But, as the sea was rough, and they were + apparently much delayed, the distance might naturally enough be + overestimated. + +214. The anchorage was in Chatham Roads, or Old Stage Harbor. + +215. Harding's Beach Point. + +216. They were now in Stage Harbor, in Chatham, to which Champlain, farther + on gives the name of Port Fortuné. + +217. This is the narrow bay that stretches from Morris Island to the north, + parallel with the sea, separated from it only by a sand-bank, and now + reaching beyond Chatham into the town of Orleans. By comparing + Champlain's map of Port Fortuné with modern charts, it will be seen + that the "bay extending back on the north some three leagues" + terminated, in 1606, a little below Chatham Old Harbor. The island on + Champlain's map marked G. was a little above the harbor, but has been + entirely swept away, together with the neck north of it, represented + on Champlain's map as covered with trees. The bay now extends, as we + have stated above, into the town of Orleans. The island G, known in + modern times as Ram Island, disappeared in 1851, although it still + continued to figure on Walling's map of 1858: The two other little + bays mentioned in the text scarcely appear on Champlain's map; and he + may have inadvertently included in this bay the two that are farther + north, viz. Crow's Pond and Pleasant Bay, although they do not fall + within the limits of his map. + +218. _Vide antea_, notes 168, 204, 205. + +219. Indian corn, _Zea mays_, is a plant of American origin. Columbus saw + it among the natives of the West Indies, "a sort of grain they call + Maiz, which was well tasted, bak'd, or dry'd and made into flour."-- + _Vide History of the Life and Actions of Chris. Columbus by his Son + Ferdinand Columbus, Churchill's Voyages_, Vol. II. p. 510. + + It is now cultivated more or less extensively in nearly every part of + the world where the climate is suitable. Champlain is the first who + has left a record of the method of its cultivation in New England, + _vide antea_, p. 64, and of its preservation through the winter. The + Pilgrims, in 1620, found it deposited by the Indians in the ground + after the manner described in the text. Bradford says they found + "heaps of sand newly padled with their hands, which they, digging up, + found in them diverce faire Indean baskets filled with corne, and some + in eares, faire and good, of diverce collours, which seemed to them a + very goodly sight, haveing never seen any such before:"--_His. Plym. + Plantation_, p. 82. Squanto taught the English how to "set it, and + after how to dress and tend it"--_Idem_, p. 100. + + "The women," says Roger Williams, "set or plant, weede and hill, and + gather and barne all the corne and Fruites of the field," and of + drying the corn, he adds, "which they doe carefully upon heapes and + Mats many dayes, they barne it up, covering it up with Mats at night, + and opening when the Sun is hot" + + The following are testimonies as to the use made by the natives of the + Indian corn as food:-- + + "They brought with them in a thing like a Bow-case, which the + principall of them had about his wast, a little of their Corne + powdered to Powder, which put to a little water they eate."--_Mourts + Relation_, London, 1622, Dexter's ed., p. 88. + + "Giving us a kinde of bread called by them _Maizium_."--_Idem_, + p. 101. + + "They seldome or never make bread of their _Indian_ corne, but seeth + it whole like beanes, eating three or four cornes with a mouthfull of + fish or flesh, sometimes eating meate first and cornes after, filling + chinckes with their broth."--_Wood's New Eng. Prospect_, London, 1634. + Prince Society's ed., pp. 75, 76. + + "Nonkekich. _Parch'd meal_, which is a readie very wholesome, food, + which they eate with a little water hot or cold: ... With _spoonfull_ + of this _meale_ and a spoonfull of water from the _Brooke_, have I + made many a good dinner and supper."--_Roger Williams's Key_, London, + 1643, Trumbull's ed., pp. 39, 40. + + "Their food is generally boiled maize, or Indian corn, mixed with + kidney beans or Sometimes without.... Also they mix with the said + pottage several sorts of roots, as Jerusalem artichokes, and ground + nuts, and other roots, and pompions, and squashes, and also several + sorts of nuts or masts, as oak-acorns, chesnuts, walnuts: These husked + and dried, and powdered, they thicken their pottage therewith."-- + _Historical Collections of the Indians_, by Daniel Gookin, 1674, + Boston, 1792. p. 10. + +220. The character of the Indian dress, as here described, does not differ + widely from that of a later period.--_Vide Mourt's Relation_, 1622, + Dexter's ed., p. 135: _Roger Williams's Key_, 1643, Trumbull's ed., + p. 143, _et seq.; History of New England_, by Edward Johnson, 1654, + Poole's ed., pp. 224, 225. + + Champlain's observations were made in the autumn before the approach + of the winter frosts. + + Thomas Morton, writing in 1632, says that the mantle which the women + "use to cover their nakednesse with is much longer then that which the + men use; for as the men have one Deeres skinn, the women haue two soed + together at the full length, and it is so lardge that it trailes after + them, like a great Ladies trane, and in time," he sportively adds, "I + thinke they may have their Pages to beare them up."--_New Eng. + Canaan_, 1632, in Force's Tracts, Vol. II, p. 23. + +221. This conclusion harmonizes with the opinion of Thomas Morton, who says + that the natives of New England are "_sine fide, sine lege, et sine + rege_, and that they have no worship nor religion at all."--_New Eng. + Canaan_, 1632, in Force's Tracts, Vol. II. p. 21. + + Winslow was at first of the same opinion, but afterward saw cause for + changing his mind.--_Vide Winslow's Relation_, 1624, in Young's + Chronicles, P 355. See also _Roger Williams's Key_, Trumbull's ed., + p. 159. + +222. "Their houses, or wigwams," says Gookin, "are built with small poles + fixed in the ground, bent and fastened together with barks of trees, + oval or arborwise on the top. The best sort of their houses are + covered very neatly, tight, and warm with the bark of trees, stripped + from their bodies at such seasons when the sap is up; and made into + great flakes with pressures of weighty timbers, when they are green; + and so becoming dry, they will retain a form suitable for the use they + prepare them for. The meaner sort of wigwams are covered with mats + they make of a kind of bulrush, which are also indifferent tight and + warm, but not so good as the former."--_Vide Historical Collections_, + 1674, Boston, 1792, p. 9. + +223. The construction of the Indian couch, or bed, at a much later period + may be seen by the following excerpts: "So we desired to goe to rest: + he layd us on the bed with himselfe and his wife, they at one end and + we at the other, it being only plancks layd a foot from the ground, + and a thin mat upon them."--_Mourt's Relation_, London. 1622, Dexter's + ed., pp. 107, 108. "In their wigwams, they make a kind of couch or + mattresses, firm and strong, raised about a foot high from the earth; + first covered with boards that they split out of trees; and upon the + boards they spread mats generally, and sometimes bear skins and deer + skins. These are large enough for three or four persons to lodge upon: + and one may either draw nearer or keep at a more distance from the + heat of the fire, as they please; for their mattresses are six or + eight feet broad."--_Gookin's Historical Collections_, 1674, Boston, + 1792, p. 10. + +224. This exploration appears to have extended about as far as Point + Gammon, where, being "near the land," their Indian guide left them, as + stated in the text. + +225. On the map of Port Fortuné, or Chatham, the course of one of these + excursions is marked by a dotted line, to which the reader is + referred.--_Vide_ notes on the map of Port Fortuné. + +226. _Port Fortuné_, perhaps here used, to signify the port of chance or + hazard; referring particularly to the dangers they encountered in + passing round Monomoy to reach it. The latitude of Stage Harbor in + Chatham is 41° 40'. The distance from Mallebarre or Nauset to Port + Fortuné, or Stage Harbor, by water round the Southern point of Monomoy + is at the present time about nine leagues. The distance may possibly + have been greater in 1606, or Champlain may have increased the + distance by giving a wide berth to Monomoy in passing round it. + + + + +CHAPTER XV. + +THE INCLEMENCY OF THE WEATHER NOT PERMITTING US AT THAT TIME TO CONTINUE +OUR DISCOVERIES, WE RESOLVED TO RETURN TO OUR SETTLEMENT. WHAT HAPPENED TO +US UNTIL WE REACHED IT. + + +After having gone some six or seven leagues, we sighted an island, which we +named La Soupçonneuse, [227] because in the distance we had several times +thought it was not an island. Then the wind became contrary, which caused +us to put back to the place whence we had set out, where we stayed two or +three days, no savage during this time presenting himself to us. + +On the 20th, we set out anew and coasted along to the south-west nearly +twelve leagues, [228] where we passed near a river which is small and +difficult of access in consequence of the shoals and rocks at its mouth, +and which I called after my own name. [229] This coast is, so far as we +saw, low and sandy. The wind again grew contrary and very strong, which +caused us to put out to sea, as we were unable to advance on one tack or +the other; it, however, finally abated a little and grew favorable. But all +we could do was to return again to Port Fortuné, where the coast, though +low, is fine and good, yet difficult of access, there being no harbors, +many reefs, and shallow water for the distance of nearly two leagues from +land. The most that we found was seven or eight fathoms in some channels, +which, however, continued only a cable's length, when there were suddenly +only two or three fathoms; but one should not trust the water who has not +well examined the depth with the lead in hand. + +Some hours after we had returned to port, a son of Pont Gravé, named +Robert, lost a hand in firing a musket, which burst in several pieces, but +without injuring any one near him. + +Seeing now the wind continuing contrary, and being unable to put to sea, we +resolved meanwhile to get possession of some savages of this place, and, +taking them to our settlement, put them to grinding corn at the hand-mill, +as punishment for the deadly assault which they had committed on five or +six of our company. But it was very difficult to do this when we were +armed, since, if we went to them prepared to fight, they would turn and +flee into the woods, where they were not to be caught. It was necessary, +accordingly, to have recourse to artifice, and this is what we planned: +when they should come to seek friendship with us, to coax them by showing +them beads and other gewgaws, and assure them repeatedly of our good faith; +then to take the shallop well armed, and conduct on shore the most robust +and strong men we had, each one having a chain of beads and a fathom of +match on his arm; [230] and there, while pretending to smoke with them +(each one having an end of his match lighted so as not to excite suspicion, +it being customary to have fire at the end of a cord in order to light the +tobacco), coax them with pleasing words so as to draw them into the +shallop; and, if they should be unwilling to enter, each one approaching +should choose his man, and, putting the beads about his neck, should at the +same time put the rope on him to draw him by force. But, if they should be +too boisterous, and it should not be possible to succeed, they should be +stabbed, the rope being firmly held; and, if by chance any of them should +get away, there should be men on land to charge upon them with swords. +Meanwhile, the little cannon on our barque were to be kept ready to fire +upon their companions in case they should come to assist them, under cover +of which firearms the shallop could withdraw in security. The plan +above-mentioned was well carried out as it had been arranged. + +Some days after these events had transpired, there came savages by threes +and fours to the shore, making signs to us to go to them. But we saw their +main body in ambuscade under a hillock behind some bushes, and I suppose +that they were only desirous of beguiling us into the shallop in order to +discharge a shower of arrows upon us, and then take to flight. +Nevertheless, Sieur de Poutrincourt did not hesitate to go to them with ten +of us, well equipped and determined to fight them, if occasion offered. We +landed at a place beyond their ambuscade, as we thought, and where they +could not surprise us. There three or four of us went ashore together with +Sieur de Poutrincourt: the others did not leave the shallop, in order to +protect it and be ready for an emergency. We ascended a knoll and went +about the woods to see if we could not discover more plainly the ambuscade. +When they saw us going so unconcernedly to them, they left and went to +other places, which we could not see, and of the four savages we saw only +two, who went away very slowly. As they withdrew, they made signs to us to +take our shallop to another place, thinking that it was not favorable for +the carrying out of their plan. And, when we also saw that they had no +desire to come to us, we re-embarked and went to the place they indicated, +which was the second ambuscade they had made, in their endeavor to draw us +unarmed to themselves by signs of friendship. But this we were not +permitted to do at that time, yet we approached very near them without +seeing this ambuscade, which we supposed was not far off. As our shallop +approached the shore, they took to flight, as also those in ambush, after +whom we fired some musket-shots, since we saw that their intention was only +to deceive us by flattery, in which they were disappointed; for we +recognized clearly what their purpose was, which had only mischief in view. +We retired to our barque after having done all we could. + +On the same day, Sieur de Poutrincourt resolved to return to our settlement +on account of four or five sick and wounded men, whose wounds were growing +worse through lack of salves, of which our surgeon, by a great mistake on +his part, had brought but a small provision, to the detriment of the sick +and our own discomfort, as the stench from their wounds was so great, in a +little vessel like our own, that one could scarcely endure it. Moreover, we +were afraid that they would generate disease. Also we had provisions only +for going eight or ten days farther, however much economy might be +practised; and we knew not whether the return would last as long as the +advance, which was nearly two months. + +At any rate, our resolution being formed, we withdrew, but with the +satisfaction that God had not left unpunished the misdeeds of these +barbarians. [231] We advanced no farther than to latitude 41° 30', which +was only half a degree farther than Sieur de Monts had gone on his voyage +of discovery. We set out accordingly from this harbor. [232] + +On the next day, we anchored near Mallebarre, where we remained until the +28th of the month, when we set sail. On that day the air was very cold, +and there was a little snow. We took a direct course for Norumbegue or +Isle Haute. Heading east-north-east, we were two days at sea without +seeing land, being kept back by bad weather. On the following night, we +sighted the islands, which are between Quinibequy and Norumbegue. [233] +The wind was so strong that we were obliged, to put to sea until daybreak; +but we went so far from land, although we used very little sail, that we +could not see it again until the next day, when we saw Isle Haute, of which +we were abreast. + +On the last day of October, between the Island of Monts Déserts and Cap +Corneille, [234] our rudder broke in several pieces, without our knowing +the reason. Each one expressed his opinion about it. On the following +night, with a fresh breeze, we came among a large number of islands and +rocks, whither the wind drove us; and we resolved to take refuge, if +possible, on the first land we should find. + +We were for some time at the mercy of the wind and sea, with only the +foresail set. But the worst of it was that the night was dark, and we did +not know where we were going; for our barque could not be steered at all, +although we did all that was possible, holding in our hands the sheets of +the foresail, which sometimes enabled us to steer it a little. We kept +continually sounding, to see if it were possible to find a bottom for +anchoring, and to prepare ourselves for what might happen. But we found +none. Finally, as we were going faster than we wished, it was recommended +to put an oar astern together with some men, so as to steer to an island +which we saw, in order to shelter ourselves from the wind. Two other oars +also were put over the sides in the after part of the barque, to assist +those who were steering, in order to make the vessel bear up on one tack +and the other. This device served us so well, that we headed where we +wished, and ran in behind the point of the island we had seen, anchoring in +twenty-one fathoms of water until daybreak, when we proposed to reconnoitre +our position and seek for a place to make another rudder. The wind abated. +At daybreak, we found ourselves near the Isles Rangées, [235] entirely +surrounded by breakers, and we praised God for having preserved us so +wonderfully amid so many perils. + +On the 1st of November, we went to a place which we deemed favorable for +beaching our vessel and repairing our helm. On this day, I landed, and saw +some ice two inches thick, it having frozen perhaps eight or ten days +before. I observed also that the temperature of the place differed very +much from that of Mallebarre and Port Fortuné; for the leaves of the trees +were not yet dead, and had not begun to fall when we set out, while here +they had all fallen, and it was much colder than at Port Fortuné. + +On the next day, as we were beaching our barque, a canoe came containing +Etechemin savages, who told the savage Secondon in our barque that +Iouaniscou, with his companions, had killed some other savages, and carried +off some women as prisoners, whom they had executed near the Island of +Monts Déserts. + +On the 9th of the month, we set out from near Cap Corneille, and anchored +the same day in the little passage [236] of Sainte Croix River. + +On the morning of the next day, we landed our savage with some supplies +which we gave him. He was well pleased and satisfied at having made this +voyage with us, and took away with him some heads of the savages that had +been killed at Port Fortuné. [237] The same day we anchored in a very +pretty cove [238] on the south of the Island of Manan. + +On the 12th of the month, we made sail; and, when under way, the shallop, +which we were towing astern, struck against our barque so violently and +roughly that it made an opening and stove in her upper works, and again in +the recoil broke the iron fastenings of our rudder. At first, we thought +that the first blow had stove in some planks in the lower part, which would +have sunk us; for the wind was so high that all we could do was to carry +our foresail. But finding that the damage was slight, and that there was no +danger, we managed with ropes to repair the rudder as well as we could, so +as to serve us to the end of our voyage. This was not until the 14th of +November, when, at the entrance to Port Royal, we came near being lost on a +point; but God delivered us from this danger as well as from many others to +which we had been exposed. [239] + + +ENDNOTES: + +227. _La Soupçonneuse_, the doubtful, Martha's Vineyard. Champlain and + Poutrincourt, in the little French barque, lying low on the water, + creeping along the shore from Chatham to Point Gammon, could hardly + fail to be doubtful whether Martha's Vineyard were an island or a part + of the main land. Lescarbot, speaking of it, says, _et fut appelée + l'Ile Douteuse_. + +228. Nearly twelve leagues in a southwesterly direction from their + anchorage at Stage Harbor in Chatham would bring them to Nobska Point, + at the entrance of the Vineyard Sound. This was the limit of + Champlain's explorations towards the south. + +229. "Called after my own name." viz. _Rivière de Champlain_.--_Vide_ map, + 1612. This river appears to be a tidal passage connecting the Vineyard + Sound and Buzzard's Bay, having Nouamesset and Uncatena Islands on the + south-west, and Nobska Point, Wood's Boll, and Long Neck on the + north-east. On our Coast Survey Charts, it is called Hadley River. Its + length is nearly two miles, in a winding course. The mouth of this + passage is full of boulders, and in a receding tide the current is + rough and boisterous, and would answer well to the description in the + text, as no other river does on the coast from Chatham to Wood's + Holl. On the small French barque, elevated but a little above the + surface of the water, its source in Buzzard's Bay could not be + discovered, especially if they passed round Nobska Point, under the + lee of which they probably obtained a view of the "shoals, and rocks" + which they saw at the mouth of the river. + +230. _A fathom of match on his arm_. This was a rope, made of the tow of + hemp or flax, loosely twisted, and prepared to retain the fire, so + that, when once lighted, it would burn till the whole was consumed. It + was employed in connection with the match-lock, the arm then in common + use. The wheel-lock followed in order of time, which was discharged by + means of a notched wheel of steel, so arranged that its friction, when + in motion, threw sparks of fire into the pan that contained the + powder. The snaphance was a slight improvement upon the wheel-lock. + The flint-lock followed, now half a century since superseded by the + percussion lock and cap. + +231. They did not capture any of the Indians, to be reduced to a species of + slavery, as they intended; but, as will appear further on, inhumanly + butchered several of them, which would seem to have been an act of + revenge rather than of punishment. The intercourse of the French with + the natives of Cape Cod was, on the whole, less satisfactory than that + with the northern tribes along the shores of Maine, New Brunswick, and + Nova Scotia. With the latter they had no hostile conflicts whatever, + although the Indians were sufficiently implacable and revengeful + towards their enemies. Those inhabiting the peninsula of Cape Cod, and + as far north as Cape Anne, were more suspicious, and had apparently + less clear conceptions of personal rights, especially the rights of + property. Might and right were to them identical. Whatever they + desired, they thought they had a right to have, if they had the power + or wit to obtain it. The French came in contact with only two of the + many subordinate tribes that were in possession of the peninsula; + viz., the Monomoyicks at Chatham, and the Nausets at Eastham. The + conflict in both instances grew out of an attempt on the part of the + natives to commit a petty theft. But it is quite possible that the + invasion of their territory by strangers, an unpardonable offence + among civilized people, may have created a feeling of hostility that + found a partial gratification in stealing their property; and, had not + this occasion offered, the stifled feeling of hostility may have + broken out in some other form. In general, they were not subsequently + unfriendly in their intercourse with the English. The Nausets were, + however, the same that sent a shower of arrows upon the Pilgrims in + 1620, at the place called by them the "First Encounter," and not more + than three miles from the spot where the same tribe, in 1605, had + attacked the French, and Slain one of De Monts's men. It must, + however, be said that, beside the invasion of their country, the + Pilgrims had, some days before, rifled the granaries of the natives + dwelling a few miles north of the Nausets, and taken away without + leave a generous quantity of their winter's supply of corn; and this + may have inspired them with a desire to be rid of visitors who helped + themselves to their provisions, the fruit of their summer's toil, + their dependence for the winter already upon them, with so little + ceremony and such unscrupulous selfishness; for such it must have + appeared to the Nausets in their savage and unenlightened state. It is + to be regretted that these excellent men, the Pilgrims, did not more + fully comprehend the moral character of their conduct in this + instance. They lost at the outset a golden opportunity for impressing + upon the minds of the natives the great practical principle enunciated + by our Lord, the foundation of all good neighborhood, [Greek: Panta + oun osa an thelaete ina poiosin hymin hoi anthropoi, houto kai hymeis + poieite autois. Matth]. vii 12.--_Vide Bradford's Hist. Plym. + Plantation_, pp. 82, 83; _Mourt's Relation_, London, 1622, Dexter's + ed., pp. 21, 22, 30, 31, 55. + +232. The latitude of Nobska Point, the most southern limit of their voyage, + is 41° 31', while the latitude of Nauset Harbor, the southern limit of + that of De Monts on the previous year, 1605, is 41° 49'. They + consequently advanced but 18', or eighteen nautical miles, further + south than they did the year before. Had they commenced this year's + explorations where those of the preceding terminated, as Champlain had + advised, they might have explored the whole coast as far as Long + Island Sound. _Vide antea_, pp. 109, 110. + +233. Between the Kennebec and Penobscot. + +234. _Vide antea_, note 177. + +235. _Isles Rangées_, the small islands along the coast south-west of + Machias. _Vide_ map of 1612. + +236. _Petit passage de la Rivière Saincte Croix_, the southern strait + leading into Eastport Harbor. This anchorage appears to have been in + Quoddy Roads between Quoddy Head and Lubeck. + +237. In reporting the stratagem resorted to for decoying the Indians into + the hands of the French at Port Fortuné, Champlain passes over the + details of the bloody encounter, doubtless to spare himself and the + reader the painful record; but its results are here distinctly + stated. Compare _antea_, pp. 132, 133. + +238. Sailing from Quoddy Head to Annapolis Bay, they would in their course + pass round the northern point of the Grand Manan; and they probably + anchored in Whale Cove, or perhaps in Long Island Bay, a little + further south. Champlain's map is so oriented that both of these bays + would appear to be on the south of the Grand Manan. _Vide_ map of + 1612. + +239. Champlain had now completed his survey south of the Bay of Fundy. He + had traced the shore-line with its sinuosities and its numberless + islands far beyond the two distinguished headlands, Cape sable and + Cape Cod, which respectively mark the entrance to the Gulf of Maine. + The priority of these observations, particularly with reference to the + habits, mode of life, and character of the aborigines, invests them + with an unusual interest and value. Anterior to the visits of + Champlain, the natives on this coast had come in contact with + Europeans but rarely and incidentally, altogether too little + certainly, if we except those residing on the southern coast of Nova + Scotia, to have any modifying effect upon their manners, customs, or + mode of life. What Champlain reports, therefore, of the Indians, is + true of them in their purely savage state, untouched by any influences + of European civilization. This distinguishes the record, and gives to + it a special importance. + + + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +RETURN FROM THE FOREGOING DISCOVERIES, AND WHAT TRANSPIRED DURING THE +WINTER. + +Upon our arrival, Lescarbot, who had remained at the settlement, assisted +by the others who had stayed there, welcomed us with a humorous +entertainment. [240] + +Having landed and had time to take breath, each one began to make little +gardens, I among the rest attending to mine, in order in the spring to sow +several kinds of seeds which had been brought from France, and which grew +very well in all the gardens. + +Sieur de Poutrincourt, moreover, had a water-mill built nearly a league and +a half from our settlement, near the point where grain had been planted. +This mill [241] was built at a fall, on a little river which is not +navigable on account of the large number of rocks in it, and which falls +into a small lake. In this place, there is such an abundance of herring in +their season that shallops could be loaded with them, if one were to take +the trouble to bring the requisite apparatus. The savages also of this +region come here sometimes to fish. A quantity of charcoal was made by us +for our forge. During the winter, in order not to remain idle, I undertook +the building of a road along the wood to a little, river or brook, which we +named La Truitière, [242] there being many trout there. I asked Sieur de +Poutrincourt for two or three men, which he gave me to assist in making +this passage-way. I got along so well that in a little while I had the road +through. It extends through to trout-brook, and measures nearly two +thousand paces. It served us as a walk under the shelter of the trees, +which I had left on both sides. This led Sieur de Poutrincourt to determine +to make another through the woods, in order that we might go straight to +the mouth of Port Royal, it being a distance of nearly three leagues and a +half by land from our settlement. He had this commenced and continued for +about half a league from La Truitière; but he did not finish it, as the +undertaking was too laborious, and he was occupied by other things at the +time more necessary. Some time after our arrival, we saw a shallop +containing savages, who told us that a savage, who was one of our friends, +had been killed by those belonging to the place whence they came, which was +Norumbegue, in revenge for the killing of the men of Norumbegue and +Quinibequy by Iouaniscou, also a savage, and his followers, as I have +before related; and that some Etechemins had informed the savage Secondon, +who was with us at that time. + +The commander of the shallop was the savage named Ouagimou, who was on +terms of friendship with Bessabez, chief of the river Norumbegue, of whom +he asked the body of Panounias, [243] who had been killed. The latter +granted it to him, begging him to tell his friends that he was very sorry +for his death, and assuring him that it was without his knowledge that he +had been killed, and that, inasmuch as it was not his fault, he begged him +to tell them that he desired they might continue to live as friends. This +Ouagimou promised to do upon his return. He said to us that he was very +uneasy until he got away from them, whatever friendship they might show +him, since they were liable to change; and he feared that they would treat +him in the same manner as they had the one who had been killed. +Accordingly, he did not tarry long after being dismissed. He took the body +in his shallop from Norumbegue to our settlement, a distance of fifty +leagues. + +As soon as the body was brought on shore, his relatives and friends began +to shout by his side, having painted their entire face with black, which is +their mode of mourning. After lamenting much, they took a quantity of +tobacco and two or three dogs and other things belonging to the deceased, +and burned them some thousand paces from our settlement on the +sea-shore. Their cries continued until they returned to their cabin. + +The next day they took the body of the deceased and wrapped it in a red +covering, which Mabretou, chief of this place, urgently implored me to give +him, since it was handsome and large. He gave it to the relatives of the +deceased, who thanked me very much for it. After thus; wrapping up the +body, they decorated it with several kinds of _matachiats_; that is, +strings of beads and bracelets of diverse colors. They painted the face, +and put on the head many feathers and other things, the finest they had. +Then they placed the body on its knees between two sticks, with another +under the arms to sustain it. Around the body were the mother, wife, and +others of the relatives and friends of the deceased, both women and girls, +howling like dogs. + +While the women and girls were shrieking, the savage named Mabretou made an +address to his companions on the death of the deceased, urging all to take +vengeance for the wickedness and treachery committed by the subjects of +Bessabez, and to make war upon them as speedily as possible. All agreed to +do so in the spring. + +After the harangue was finished and the cries had ceased, they carried the +body of the deceased to another cabin. After smoking tobacco together, +they wrapped it in an elk-skin likewise; and, binding it very securely, +they kept it until there should be a larger number of savages present, from +each one of whom the brother of the deceased expected to receive presents, +it being their custom to give them to those who have lost fathers, mothers, +wives, brothers, or sisters. + +On the night of the 26th of December, there was a southeast wind, which +blew down several trees. On the last day of December, it began to snow, +which continued until the morning of the next day. On the both of January +following, 1607, Sieur de Poutrincourt, desiring to ascend the river +Équille, [244] found it at a distance of some two leagues from our +settlement sealed with ice, which caused him to return, not being able to +advance any farther. On the 8th of February, some pieces of ice began to +flow down from the upper part of the river into the harbor, which only +freezes along the shore. On the both of May following, it snowed all night; +and, towards the end of the month, there were heavy hoar-frosts, which +lasted until the 10th or 12th of June, when all the trees were covered with +leaves, except the oaks, which do not leaf out until about the 15th. The +winter was not so severe as on the preceding years, nor did the snow +continue so long on the ground. It rained very often, so that the savages +suffered a severe famine, owing to the small quantity of snow. Sieur de +Poutrincourt supported a part of them who were with us; namely, Mabretou, +his wife and children, and some others. + +We spent this winter very pleasantly, and fared generously by means of the +ORDRE DE BON TEMPS, which I introduced. This all found useful for their +health, and more advantageous than all the medicines that could have been +used. By the rules of the order, a chain was put, with some little +ceremonies, on the neck of one of our company, commissioning him for the +day to go a hunting. The next day it was conferred upon another, and thus +in succession. All exerted themselves to the utmost to see who would do the +best and bring home the finest game. We found this a very good arrangement, +as did also the savages who were with us. [245] + +There were some cases of _mal de la terre_ among us, which was, however, +not so violent as in the previous years. Nevertheless, seven died from it, +and another from an arrow wound, which he had received from the savages at +Port Fortuné. [246] + +Our surgeon, named Master Estienne, opened some of the bodies, as we did +the previous years, and found almost all the interior parts affected. Eight +or ten of the sick got well by spring. + +At the beginning of March and of April, all began to prepare gardens, so as +to plant seeds in May, which is the proper time for it. They grew as well +as in France, but were somewhat later. I think France is at least a month +and a half more forward. As I have stated, the time to plant is in May, +although one can sometimes do so in April; yet the seeds planted then do +not come forward any faster than those planted in May, when the cold can no +longer damage the plants except those which are very tender, since there +are many which cannot endure the hoar-frosts, unless great care and +attention be exercised. + +On the 24th of May, we perceived a small barque [247] of six or seven tons' +burthen, which we sent men to reconnoitre; and it was found to be a young +man from St. Malo, named Chevalier, who brought letters from Sieur de Monts +to Sieur de Poutrincourt, by which he directed him to bring back his +company to France. [248] He also announced to us the birth of Monseigneur, +the Duke of Orleans, to our delight, in honor of which event we made +bonfires and chanted the _Te Deum_. [249] + +Between the beginning and the 20th of June, some thirty or forty savages +assembled in this place in order to make war upon the Almouchiquois, and +revenge the death of Panounias, who was interred by the savages according +to their custom, who gave afterwards a quantity of peltry to a brother of +his.[250] The presents being made, all of them set out from this place on +the 29th of June for Choüacoet, which is the country of the Almouchiquois, +to engage in the war. + +Some days after the arrival of the above Chevalier, Sieur de Poutrincourt +sent him to the rivers St. John [251] and St. Croix [252] to trade for +furs. But he did not permit him to go without men to bring back the barque, +since some had reported that he desired to return to France with the vessel +in which he had come, and leave us in our settlement. Lescarbot was one of +those who accompanied him, who up to this time had not left Port Royal. +This is the farthest he went, only fourteen or fifteen leagues beyond Port +Royal. + +While awaiting the return of Chevalier, Sieur de Poutrincourt went to the +head of Baye Françoise in a shallop with seven or eight men. Leaving the +harbor and heading northeast a quarter east for some twenty-five leagues +along the coast, we arrived at a cape where Sieur de Poutrincourt desired +to ascend a cliff more than thirty fathoms high, in doing which he came +near losing his life. For, having reached the top of the rock which is very +narrow, and which he had ascended with much difficulty, the summit trembled +beneath him. The reason was that, in course of time, moss had gathered +there four or five feet in thickness, and, not being solid, trembled when +one was on top of it, and very often when one stepped on a stone three or +four others fell down. Accordingly, having gone up with difficulty, he +experienced still greater in coming down, although some sailors, men very +dexterous in climbing, carried him a hawser, a rope of medium size, by +means of which he descended, This place was named Cap de Poutrincourt, +[253] and is in latitude 45° 40'. + +We went as far as the head of this bay, but saw nothing but certain white +stones suitable for making lime, yet they are found only in small +quantities. We saw also on some islands a great number of gulls. We +captured as many of them as we wished. We made the tour of the bay, in +order to go to the Port aux Mines where I had previously been, [254] and +whither I conducted Sieur de Poutrincourt, who collected some little pieces +of copper with great difficulty. All this bay has a circuit of perhaps +twenty leagues, with a little river at its head, which is very sluggish and +contains but little water. There are many other little brooks, and some +places where there are good harbors at high tide, which rises here five +fathoms. In one of these harbors three or four leagues north of Cap de +Poutrincourt, we found a very old cross all covered with moss and almost +all rotten, a plain indication that before this there had been Christians +there. All of this country is covered with dense forests, and with some +exceptions is not very attractive. [255] + +From the Port aux Mines [256] we returned to our settlement. In this bay +there are strong tidal currents running in a south-westerly direction. + +On the 12th of July, Ralleau, secretary of Sieur de Monts, arrived with +three others in a shallop from a place called Niganis, [257] distant from +Port Royal some hundred and sixty or hundred and seventy leagues, +confirming the report which Chevalier had brought to Sieur de Poutrincourt. + +On the 3d of July, [258] three barques were fitted out to send the men and +supplies, which were at our settlement, to Canseau, distant one hundred and +fifteen leagues from our settlement, and in latitude 45° 20', where the +vessel [259] was engaged in fishing, which was to carry us back to France. + +Sieur de Poutrincourt sent back all his companions, but remained with eight +others at the settlement, so as to carry to France some grain not yet quite +ripe. [260] + +On the 10th of August, Mabretou arrived from the war, who told us that he +had been at Choüacoet, and had killed twenty savages and wounded ten or +twelve; also that Onemechin, chief of that place, Marchin, and one other, +had been killed by Sasinou, chief of the river of Quinibequy, who was +afterwards killed by the companions of Onemechin and Marchin. All this war +was simply on account of the savage Panounias, one of our friends who, as I +have said above, had been killed at Norumbegue by the followers of +Onemechin and Marchin. At present, the chiefs in place of Onemechin, +Marchin, and Sasinou are their sons: namely, for Sasinou, Pememen; Abriou +for his father, Marchin; and for Onemechin, Queconsicq. The two latter were +wounded by the followers of Mabretou, who seized them under pretence of +friendship, as is their fashion, something which both sides have to guard +against. [261] + +ENDNOTES: + +240. Lescarbot, the author of a History of New France often referred to in + our notes, published a volume entitled "LES MUSES DE LA NOUVELLE + FRANCE," in which may be found the play entitled LE THEATRE DE + NEPTUNE, which he composed to celebrate the return of this expedition. + +241. The mill is represented on Champlain's map of Port Royal as situated + on the stream which he calls _Rivière du Moulin_, the River of the + Mill. This is Allen River; and the site of the mill was a short + distance south-east of the "point where corn had been planted," which + was on the spot now occupied by the village of Annapolis. + +242. _Vide antea_, note 212. see also the map of Port Royal, where the road + is delineated, p. 24. + +243. This Indian Panounias and his wife had accompanied De Monts in 1605, + on his expedition to Cape Cod.--_Vide_ antea, p. 55. + +244. Now the Annapolis River. + +245. The conceit of this novel order was a happy one, as it served to + dispel the gloom of a long winter in the forests of La Cadie, as well + as to improve the quality and variety of their diet. The _noblesse_, + or gentlemen of the party, were fifteen, who served in turn and for a + single day as caterer or steward, the turn of each recurring once in + fifteen days. It was their duty to add to the ordinary fare such + delicate fish or game as could be captured or secured by each for his + particular day. They always had some delicacy at breakfast; but the + dinner was the great banquet, when the most imposing ceremony was + observed. + +246. Champlain does not inform us how many of Poutrincourt's party were + killed in the affray at Chatham. He mentions one as killed on the + spot. He speaks of carrying away the "dead bodies" for burial. He also + says they made a "deadly assault" upon "five or six of our company;" + and another appears to have died of his wounds after their return to + Port Royal, as stated in the text. + +247. _Une petite barque_. The French barque was a small vessel or large + boat, rigged with two masts; and those employed by De Monts along our + coast varied from six to eighteen tons burden, and must not be + confounded with our modern bark, which is generally much larger. + + The _vaisseau_, often mentioned by Champlain, included all large + vessels, those used for fishing, the fur-trade, and the transportation + of men and supplies for the colony. + + The _chaloupe_ was a row-boat of convenient size for penetrating + shallow places, was dragged behind the barque in the explorations of + our coast, and used for minor investigations of rivers and estuaries. + + The _patache_, an advice-boat, is rarely used by Champlain, and then + in the place of the shallop. + +248. It Seems that young Chevalier had come out in the "Jonas," the same + ship that had brought out Poutrincourt, Lescarbot, and others, the + year before. It had stopped at Canseau to fish for cod. It brought the + unwelcome news that the company of De Monts had been broken up; that + the Hollanders, conducted by a "French traitor named La Jeunesse," had + destroyed the fur-trading establishments on the St. Lawrence, which + rendered it impracticable to sustain, as heretofore, the expenses of + the company. The monopoly of the fur-trade, granted to De Monts for + ten years, had been rescinded by the King's Council. "We were very + sad," says Lescarbot, "to see so fine and holy an undertaking broken + off, and that so many labors and perils endured had resulted in + nothing: and that the hope of establishing there the name of God and + the Catholic Faith had disappeared. Notwithstanding, after M. de + Poutrincourt had a long while mused hereupon, he said that, although + he should have none to come with him, except his family, he would not + forsake the enterprise."--_His. Nou. France_, par M. Lescarbot. + Paris, 1612. pp. 591-2. + +249. On the 16th of April, 1607, was born the second son of Henry IV. by + Marie de Medicis, who received the title, Le Duc d'Orléans. In France, + public rejoicings were universal. On the 22d of the month, he was + invested with the insignia of the Order of St. Michael and the Holy + Ghost with great pomp, on which occasion a banquet was given by the + King in the great hall at Fontainebleau, and in the evening the park + was illuminated by bonfires and a pyrotechnic display, which was + witnessed by a vast concourse of people. The young prince was baptized + privately by the Cardinal de Gondy, but the state ceremonies of his + christening were delayed, and appear never to have taken place: he + died in the fifth year of his age, never having received any Christian + name.--_Vide the Life of Marie de Medicis_, by Miss Pardoe, London, + 1852, Vol. I. p. 416; _Memoirs of the Duke of Sully_, Lennox, trans., + Phila., 1817, Vol. IV. p. 140. In New France, the little colony at + Port Royal attested their loyalty by suitable manifestations of + joy. "As the day declined," Says Lescarbot, "we made bonfires to + celebrate the birth of Monseigneur le Duc d'Orléans, and caused our + cannon and falconets to thunder forth again, accompanied with plenty + of musket-shots, having before for this purpose chanted a _Te Deum_." + --_Vide His. Nou. France_, Paris, 1612, p.594. + +250. Lescarbot says that about four hundred set out for the war against the + Almouchiquois, at Choüacoet, or Saco. The savages were nearly two + months in assembling themselves together. Mabretou had sent out his + two sons, Actaudin and Actaudinech, to summon them to come to Port + Royal as a rendezvous. They came from the river St. John, and from the + region of Gaspé. Their purpose was accomplished, as will appear in the + sequel. + +251. At St. John, they visited the cabin of Secondon, the Sagamore, with + whom they bartered for some furs. Lescarbot, who was in the + expedition, says, "The town of Ouïgoudy was a great enclosure upon a + hill, compassed about with high and small trees, tied one against + another; and within it many cabins, great and small, one of which was + as large as a market-hall, wherein many households resided." In the + cabin of Secondon. they saw some eighty or a hundred savages, all + nearly naked. They were celebrating a feast which they call _Tabagie_. + Their chief made his warriors pass in review before his guests.--_Vide + His. Nou. France_, par M. Lescarbot. Paris, 1612. p. 598. + +252. They found sack at St. Croix that had been left there by De Monts's + colony three years before, of which they drank. Casks were still lying + in the deserted court-yard: and others had been used as fuel by + mariners, who had chanced to come there. + +253. De Laet's map has C. de Poutrincourt; the map of the English and + French Commissaries, C. Fendu or split Cape. Halliburton has Split + Cape, so likewise has the Admiralty map of 1860. + + It is situated at the entrance of the Basin of Mines, and about eight + miles southwest of Parrsborough. The point of this cape is in latitude + 45° 20'. + +254. _Vide antea_, p. 26. + +255. The author is here speaking of the country about the Basin of Mines. + The river at the head of the bay is the Shubenacadie. It is not easy + to determine where the moss-covered cross was found. The distance from + Cap de Poutrincourt is indefinite, and the direction could not have + been exactly north. There is too much uncertainty to warrant even a + conjecture as to its locality. + +256. The port aux Mines is Advocate's Harbor.--_Vide antea_, p. 26, and + note 67. + +257. Niganis is a small Bay in the Island of Cape Breton, south of Cape + North: by De Laet called _Ninganis_; English, and French Commissaries, + _Niganishe_; modern maps, _Niganish_. + +258. The _3d of July_ was doubtless an error of the printer for the 30th, + as appears from the later date in the preceding paragraph, and the + statement of Lescarbot, that he left on the 30th of July. He says they + had one large barque, two small ones, and a shallop. One of the small + ones was sent before, while the other two followed on the 30th; and he + adds that Poutrincourt remained eleven days longer to await the + ripening of their grain, which agrees with Champlain's subsequent + statement, that he left with Poutrincourt on the 11th of + August.--_Vide His. Nou. France_, 1612, p. 603. + +259. The "Jonas."--_Vide antea_, p. 146. + +260. _Vide antea_, note 258. + +261. The implacable character of the American Indian is well illustrated in + this skirmish which took place at Saco. The old chief Mabretou, whose + life had been prolonged through several generations, had inspired his + allies to revenge, and had been present at the conflict. The Indian + Panounias had been killed in an affray, the particular cause of which + is not stated. To avenge his death, many lives were lost on both + sides. The two chiefs of Saco were slain, and in turn the author of + their death perished by the hand of their friends. Lescarbot informs + us that Champdoré, under Poutrincourt, subsequently visited Saco, and + concluded a formal peace between the belligerent parties, emphasizing + its importance by impressive forms, and ceremonies. + + + + +CHAPTER XVII. + +THE SETTLEMENT ABANDONED.--RETURN TO FRANCE OF SIEUR DE POUTRINCOURT AND +ALL HIS COMPANY. + +On the 11th of August, we set out from our settlement in a shallop, and +coasted along as far as Cape Fourchu, where I had previously been. + +Continuing our course along the coast as far as Cap de la Hève, where we +first landed with Sieur de Monts, on the 8th of May, 1604, [262] we +examined the coast from this place as far as Canseau, a distance of nearly +sixty leagues. This I had not yet done, and I observed it very carefully, +making a map of it as of the other coasts. + +Departing from Cap de la Hève, we went as far as Sesambre, an island so +called by some people from St. Malo, [263] and distant fifteen leagues from +La Hève. Along the route are a large number of islands, which we named Les +Martyres, [264] since some Frenchmen were once killed there by the savages. +These islands lie in several inlets and bays. In one of them is a river +named St. Marguerite, [265] distant seven leagues from Sesambre, which is +in latitude 44° 25'. The islands and coasts are thickly covered with pines, +firs, birches, and other trees of inferior quality. Fish and also fowl are +abundant. + +After leaving Sesambre, we passed a bay which is unobstructed, of seven or +eight leagues in extent, with no islands except at the extremity, where is +the mouth of a small river, containing but little water. [266] Then, +heading north-east a quarter east, we arrived at a harbor distant eight +leagues from Sesambre, which is very suitable for vessels of a hundred or a +hundred and twenty tons. At its entrance is an island from which one can +walk to the main land at low tide. We named this place Port Saincte +Helaine, [267] which is in latitude 44° 40' more or less. + +From this place we proceeded to a bay called La Baye de Toutes Isles, [268] +of some fourteen or fifteen leagues in extent, a dangerous place on account +of the presence of banks, shoals, and reefs. The country presents a very +unfavorable appearance, being filled with the same kind of trees which I +have mentioned before. Here we encountered bad weather. + +Hence we passed on near a river, six leagues distant, called Rivière de +l'Isle Verte,[269] there being a green island at its entrance. This short +distance which we traversed is filled with numerous rocks extending nearly +a league out to sea, where the breakers are high, the latitude being 45° +15'. + +Thence we went to a place where there is an inlet, with two or three +islands, and a very good harbor, [270] distant three leagues from l'Isle +Verte. We passed also by several islands near and in a line with each +other, which we named Isles Rangées, [271] and which are distant six or +seven leagues from l'Isle Verte. Afterwards we passed by another bay [272] +containing several islands, and proceeded to a place where we found a +vessel engaged in fishing between some islands, which are a short distance +from the main land, and distant four leagues from the Rangées. This place +we named Port de Savalette, [273] the name of the master of the vessel +engaged in fishing, a Basque, who entertained us bountifully; and was very +glad to see us, since there were savages there who purposed some harm to +him, which we prevented. [274] + +Leaving this place, we arrived on the 27th of the month at Canseau, distant +six leagues from Port de Savalette, having passed on our way a large number +of islands. At Canseau, we found that the three barques had arrived at port +in safety. Champdoré and Lescarbot came out to receive us. We also found +the vessel ready to sail, having finished its fishing and awaiting only +fair weather to return. Meanwhile, we had much enjoyment among these +islands, where we found the greatest possible quantity of raspberries. + +All the coast which we passed along from Cape Sable to this place is +moderately high and rocky, in most places bordered by numerous islands and +breakers, which extend out to sea nearly two leagues in places, and are +very unfavorable for the approach of vessels. Yet there cannot but be good +harbors and roadsteads along the coasts and islands, if they were explored. +As to the country, it is worse and less promising than in other places +which we had seen, except on some rivers or brooks, where it is very +pleasant; but there is no doubt that the winter in these regions is cold, +lasting from six to seven months. + +The harbor of Canseau [275] is a place surrounded by islands, +to which the approach is very difficult, except in fair weather, on account +of the rocks and breakers about it. Fishing, both green and dry, is carried +on here. + +From this place to the Island of Cape Breton, which is in latitude 45° 45' +and 14° 50' of the deflection of the magnetic needle, [276] it is eight +leagues, and to Cape Breton twenty-five. Between the two there is a large +bay, [277] extending Some nine or ten leagues into the interior and making +a passage between the Island of Cape Breton and the main land through to +the great Bay of St. Lawrence, by which they go to Gaspé and Isle Percée, +where fishing is carried on. This passage along the Island of Cape Breton +is very narrow. Although there is water enough, large vessels do not pass +there at all on account of the strong currents and the impetuosity of the +tides which prevail. This we named Le Passage Courant, [278] and it is in +latitude 45° 45'. + +The Island of Cape Breton is of a triangular shape, with a circuit of about +eighty leagues. Most of the country is mountainous, yet in some parts very +pleasant. In the centre of it there is a kind of lake, [279] where the sea +enters by the north a quarter north-west, and also by the south a quarter +Southeast. [280] Here are many islands filled with plenty of game, and +shell-fish of various kinds, including oysters, which, however, are not of +very good flavor. In this place there are two harbors, where fishing is +carried on; namely, Le Port aux Anglois, [281] distant from Cape Breton +some two or three leagues, and Niganis, eighteen or twenty leagues north a +quarter north-west. The Portuguese once made an attempt to settle this +island, and spent a winter here; but the inclemency of the season and the +cold caused them to abandon their settlement. + +On the 3rd of September, we set out from Canseau. On the 4th, we were off +Sable Island. On the 6th, we reached the Grand Bank, where the catching of +green fish is carried on, in latitude 45° 30'. On the 26th, we entered the +sound near the shores of Brittany and England, in sixty-five fathoms of +water and in latitude 49° 30'. On the 28th, we put in at Roscou, [282] in +lower Brittany, where we were detained by bad weather until the last day of +September, when, the wind coming round favorable, we put to sea in order to +pursue our route to St. Malo, [283] which formed the termination of these +voyages, in which God had guided us without shipwreck or danger. + + +END OF THE VOYAGES FROM THE YEAR 1604 TO 1608. + +ENDNOTES: + +262. _Vide antea_, p. 9 and note 22. + +263. Sesambre. This name was probably suggested by the little islet, + _Cézembre_, one of several on which are military works for the defence + of St. Malo. On De Laet's map of 1633, it is written _Sesembre_; on + that of Charlevoix. 1744, _Sincenibre_. It now appears on the + Admiralty maps corrupted into Sambro. There is a cape and a harbor + near this island which bear the same name. + +264. The islands stretching along from Cap de la Hève to Sambro Island are + called the _Martyres Iles_ on De Laet's map, 1633. + +265. The bay into which this river empties still retains the name of + St. Margaret. + +266. Halifax Harbor. Its Indian name was Chebucto, written on the map of + the English and French Commissaries _Shebûctû_. On Champlain's map, + 1612, as likewise on that of De Laet, 1633, it is called "_Baye + Senne_," perhaps from _saine_, signifying the unobstructed bay. + +267. Eight leagues from the Island Sesambre or Sambro Island would take + them to Perpisawick Inlet, which is doubtless _Le Port Saincte + Helaine_ of Champlain. The latitude of this harbor is 44° 41', + differing but a single minute from that of the text, which is + extraordinary, the usual variation being from ten to thirty minutes. + +268. Nicomtau Bay is fifteen leagues from Perpisawick Inlet, but _La Baye + de Toutes Isles_ is, more strictly speaking, an archipelago, extending + along the coast, say from Clam Bay to Liscomb Point, as may be seen by + reference to Champlain's map, 1612, and that of De Laet, 1633, + Cruxius, 1660, and of Charlevoix, 1744. The north-eastern portion of + this archipelago is now called, according to Laverdière, Island Bay. + +269. _Rivière de l'Isle Verte_, or Green Island River, is the River + St. Mary; and Green Island is Wedge Island near its mouth. The + latitude at the mouth of the river is 45° 3'. This little island is + called _I. Verte_ on De Laet's map, and likewise on that of + Charlevoix; on the map of the English and French Commissaries, Liscomb + or Green Island. + +270. This inlet has now the incongruous name of Country Harbor: the three + islands at its mouth are Harbor, Goose, and Green Islands. The inlet + is called Mocodome on Charlevoix's map. + +271. There are several islets on the east of St. Catharine's River, near + the shore, which Laverdière suggests are the _Isles Rangées_. They + are exceedingly small, and no name is given them on the Admiralty + charts. + +272. Tor Bay. + +273. _Le Port de Savalette_. Obviously White Haven, which is four leagues + from the Rangées and six from Canseau, as stated in the text. + Lescarbot gives a very interesting account of Captain Savalette, the + old Basque fisherman, who had made forty-two voyages into these + waters. He had been eminently successful in fishing, having taken + daily, according to his own account, fifty crowns' worth of codfish, + and expected his voyage would yield, ten thousand francs. His vessel + was of eighty tons burden, and could take in a hundred thousand dry + codfish. He was well known, and a great favorite with the voyagers to + this coast. He was from St. Jean de Luz, a small seaport town in the + department of the Lower Pyrenees in France, near the borders of Spain, + distinguished even at this day for its fishing interest. + +274. The Indians were in the habit of selecting from day to day the best of + Savalette's fish when they came in, and appropriating them to their + own use, _nolens volens_. + +275. _Canseau_. Currency has been given to an idle fancy that this name was + derived from that of a French navigator, but it has been abundantly + disproved by the Abbé Laverdière. It is undoubtedly a word of Indian + origin. + +276. The variation of the magnetic needle in 1871, fifteen miles South of + the Harbor of Canseau, was, according to the Admiralty charts, 23 + degrees west. The magnetic needle was employed in navigation as early + as the year 1200, and its variation had been discovered before the + time of Columbus. But for a long period its variation was supposed to + be fixed; that is to say, was supposed to be always the same in the + same locality. A few years before Champlain made his voyages to + America, it was discovered that its variation in Paris was not fixed, + but that it changed from year to year. If Champlain was aware of this, + his design in noting its exact variation, as he did at numerous points + on our coast, may have been to furnish data for determining at some + future day whether the variation were changeable here as well as in + France. But, whether he was aware of the discovery then recently made + in Paris or not, he probably intended, by noting the declination of + the needle, to indicate his longitude, at least approximately. + +277. Chedabucto Bay. + +278. The Strait of Canseau. Champlain gives it on his map, 1612. _Pasage du + glas;_ De Laet, 1633, _Passage du glas;_ Creuxius, 1660, Fretum + Campseium; Charlevoix, 1744, _Passage de Canceau_. It appears from the + above that the early name was soon superseded by that which it now + bears. + +279. Now called _La Bras d'Or_, The Golden Arm. + +280. There is, in fact, no passage of La Bras d'Or on the south-west; and + Champlain corrects his error, as may be seen by reference to his map + of 1612. It may also be stated that the sea enters from the + north-east. _Nordouest_ in the original is here probably a + typographical error for _nordest_. There are, indeed, two passages, + both on the north-east, distinguished as the Great and the Little Bras + d'Or. + +281. _Le Port aux Anglois_, the Harbor of the English. On De Laet's map, + Port aux Angloix. This is the Harbor of Louisburgh, famous in the + history of the Island of Cape Breton. + +282. Roscofs, a small seaport town. On Mercator's Atlas of 1623, it is + written Roscou, as in the text. + +283. According to Lescarbot, they remained at St. Malo eight days, when + they went in a barque to Honfleur, narrowly escaping + shipwreck. Poutrincourt proceeded to Paris, where he exhibited to + Henry IV. corn, wheat, rye, barley, and oats, products of the colony + which he had so often promised to cherish, but whose means of + subsistence he had now nevertheless ungraciously taken away. + Poutrincourt also presented to him five _oustards_, or wild geese, + which he had bred from the shell. The king was greatly delighted with + them, and had them preserved at Fontainebleau. These exhibitions of + the products of New France had the desired effect upon the generous + heart of Henry IV.; and De Monts's monopoly of the fur-trade was + renewed for one year, to furnish some slight aid in establishing his + colonies in New France. + + + + +THE VOYAGES +TO THE +GREAT RIVER ST. LAWRENCE, +MADE BY +SIEUR DE CHAMPLAIN, +CAPTAIN IN ORDINARY TO THE KING IN THE MARINE, +FROM THE YEAR 1608 TO THAT OF 1612. + + + +CHAPTER I. + +DETERMINATION OF SIEUR DE MONTS TO MAKE EXPLORATIONS IN THE INTERIOR; HIS +COMMISSION, AND ITS INFRINGEMENT BY THE BASQUES, WHO DISARMED THE VESSEL OF +PONT GRAVÉ; AND THE AGREEMENT BETWEEN THEM WHICH THEY SUBSEQUENTLY MADE. + + +Having returned to France after a stay of three years in New France, [283] +I proceeded to Sieur de Monts, and related to him the principal events of +which I had been a witness since his departure, and gave him the map and +plan of the most remarkable coasts and harbors there. + +Some time afterward, Sieur de Monts determined to continue his undertaking, +and complete the exploration of the interior along the great river +St. Lawrence, where I had been by order of the late King Henry the Great +[284] in the year 1603, for a distance of some hundred and eighty leagues, +commencing in latitude 48° 40', that is, at Gaspé, at the entrance of the +river, as far as the great fall, which is in latitude 45° and some minutes, +where our exploration ended, and where boats could not pass as we then +thought, since we had not made a careful examination of it as we have since +done. [285] + +Now after Sieur de Monts had conferred with me several times in regard to +his purposes concerning the exploration, he resolved to continue so noble +and meritorious an undertaking, notwithstanding the hardships and labors of +the past. He honored me with his lieutenancy for the voyage; and, in order +to carry out his purpose, he had two vessels equipped, one commanded by +Pont Gravé, who was commissioned to trade with the savages of the country +and bring back the vessels, while I was to winter in the country. + +Sieur de Monts, for the purpose of defraying the expenses of the +expedition, obtained letters from his Majesty for one year, by which all +persons were forbidden to traffic in peltry with the savages, on penalties +stated in the following commission:-- + + +HENRY BY THE GRACE OF GOD KING OF FRANCE AND NAVARRE, to our beloved and +faithful Councillors, the officers of our Admiralty in Normandy, Brittany, +and Guienne, bailiffs, marshals, prevosts, judges, or their lieutenants, +and to each one of them, according to his authority, throughout the extent +of their powers, jurisdictions, and precincts, greeting: + +Acting upon the information which has been given us by those who have +returned from New France, respecting the good quality and fertility of the +lands of that country, and the disposition of the people to accept the +knowledge of God, We have resolved to continue the settlement previously +undertaken there, in order that our subjects may go there to trade without +hinderance. And in view of the proposition to us of Sieur de Monts, +Gentleman in Ordinary of our chamber, and our Lieutenant-General in that +country, to make a settlement, on condition of our giving him means and +supplies for sustaining the expense of it, [286] it has pleased us to +promise and assure him that none of our subjects but himself shall be +permitted to trade in peltry and other merchandise, for the period of one +year only, in the lands, regions, harbors, rivers, and highways throughout +the extent of his jurisdiction: this We desire to have fulfilled. For these +causes and other considerations impelling us thereto, We command and decree +that each one of you, throughout the extent of your powers, jurisdictions, +and precincts, shall act in our stead and carry out our will in distinctly +prohibiting and forbidding all merchants, masters, and captains of vessels, +also sailors and others of our subjects, of whatever rank and profession, +to fit out any vessels, in which to go themselves or send others in order +to engage in trade or barter in peltry and other things with the savages of +New France, to visit, trade, or communicate with them during the space of +one year, within the jurisdiction of Sieur de Monts, on penalty of +disobedience, and the entire confiscation of their vessels, supplies, arms, +and merchandise for the benefit of Sieur de Monts; and, in order that the +punishment of their disobedience may be assured, you will allow, as We have +and do allow, the aforesaid Sieur de Monts or his lieutenants to seize, +apprehend, and arrest all violators of our present prohibition and order, +also their vessels, merchandise, arms, supplies, and victuals, in order to +take and deliver them up to the hands of justice, so that action may be +taken not only against the persons, but also the property of the offenders, +as the case shall require. This is our will, and We bid you to have it at +once read and published in all localities and public places within your +authority and jurisdiction, as you may deem necessary, by the first one of +our officers or sergeants in accordance with this requisition, by virtue of +these presents, or a copy of the same, properly attested once only by one +of our well-beloved and faithful councillors, notaries, and secretaries, to +which it is Our will that credence should be given as to the present +original, in order that none of our subjects may claim ground for +ignorance, but that all may obey and act in accordance with Our will in +this matter. We order, moreover, all captains of vessels, mates, and second +mates, and sailors of the same, and others on board of vessels or ships in +the ports and harbors of the aforesaid country, to permit, as We have done, +Sieur de Monts, and others possessing power and authority from him, to +search the aforesaid vessels which shall have engaged in the fur-trade +after the present prohibition shall have been made known to them. It is Our +will that, upon the requisition, of the aforesaid Sieur de Monts, his +lieutenants, and others having authority, you should proceed against the +disobedient and offenders, as the case may require: to this end. We give +you power, authority, commission, and special mandate, notwithstanding the +act of our Council of the 17th day of July last, [287] any hue and cry, +Norman charter, accusation, objection, or appeals of whatsoever kind; on +account of which, and for fear of disregarding which, it is Our will that +there should be no delay, and, if any of these occur, We have withheld and +reserved cognizance of the same to Ourselves and our Council, apart from +all other judges, and have forbidden and prohibited the same to all our +courts and judges: for this is Our pleasure. + +Given at Paris the seventh day of January, in the year of grace, sixteen +hundred and eight, and the nineteenth of Our reign. Signed, HENRY. + + +And lower down, By the King, Delomenie. And sealed with the single label of +the great seal of yellow wax. + +Collated with the original by me, Councillor, Notary, and secretary of the +King. + +I proceeded to Honfleur for embarkation, where I found the vessel of Pont +Gravé in readiness. He left port on the 5th of April. I did so on the 13th, +arriving at the Grand Bank on the 15th of May, in latitude 45° 15'. On the +26th, we sighted Cape St. Mary,[288] in latitude 46° 45', on the Island of +Newfoundland. On the 27th of the month, we sighted Cape St. Lawrence, on +Cape Breton, and also the Island of St. Paul, distant eighty-three leagues +from Cape St. Mary.[289] On the 30th, we sighted Isle Percée and +Gaspé,[290] in latitude 48° 40', distant from Cape St. Lawrence from +seventy to seventy-five leagues. + +On the 3d of June, we arrived before Tadoussac, distant from Gaspé from +eighty to ninety leagues; and we anchored in the roadstead of +Tadoussac,[291] a league distant from the harbor, which latter is a kind of +cove at the mouth of the river Saguenay, where the tide is very remarkable +on account of its rapidity, and where there are sometimes violent winds, +bringing severe cold. It is maintained that from the harbor of Tadoussac it +is some forty-five or fifty leagues to the first fall on this river, which +comes from the north-north-west. The harbor is small, and can accommodate +only about twenty vessels. It has water enough, and is under shelter of the +river Saguenay and a little rocky island; which is almost cut by the river; +elsewhere there are very high mountains with little soil and only rocks and +sand, thickly covered with such wood as fir and birch. There is a small +pond near the harbor, shut in by mountains covered with wood. There are two +points at the mouth: one on the south-west side, extending out nearly a +league into the sea, called Point St. Matthew, or otherwise Point aux +Allouettes; and another on the north-west side, extending out one-eighth of +a league, and called Point of all Devils.[292] from the dangerous nature of +the place. The winds from the south-south-east strike the harbor, which are +not to be feared; but those, however, from the Saguenay are. The two points +above mentioned are dry at low tide: our vessel was unable to enter the +harbor, as the wind and tide were unfavorable. I at once had the boat +lowered, in order to go to the port and ascertain whether Pont Gravé had +arrived. While on the way, I met a shallop with the pilot of Pont Gravé and +a Basque, who came to inform me of what had happened to them because they +attempted to hinder the Basque vessels from trading, according to the +commission obtained by Sieur de Monts from his Majesty, that no vessels +should trade without permission of Sieur de Monts, as was expressed in it; +and that, notwithstanding the notifications which Pont Gravé made in behalf +of his Majesty, they did not desist from forcibly carrying on their +traffic; and that they had used their arms and maintained themselves so +well in their vessel that, discharging all their cannon upon that of Pont +Gravé, and letting off many musket-shots, he was severely wounded, together +with three of his men, one of whom died, Pont Gravé meanwhile making no +resistance; for at the first shower of musketry he was struck down. The +Basques came on board of the vessel and took away all the cannon and arms, +declaring that they would trade, notwithstanding the prohibition of the +King, and that when they were ready to set out for France they would +restore to him his cannon and ammunition, and that they were keeping them +in order to be in a state of security. Upon hearing all these particulars, +I was greatly annoyed at such a beginning, which we might have easily +avoided. + +Now, after hearing from the pilot all these things, I asked him why the +Basque had come on board of our vessel. He told me that he came in behalf +of their master, named Darache, and his companions, to obtain assurance +from me that I would do them no harm, when our vessel entered the harbor. + +I replied that I could not give any until I had seen Pont Gravé. The Basque +said that, if I had need of any thing in their power, they would assist me +accordingly. What led them to use this language was simply their +recognition of having done wrong, as they confessed, and the fear that they +would not be permitted to engage in the whale-fishery. After talking at +length, I went ashore to see Pont Gravé, in order to deliberate as to what +was to be done. I found him very ill. He related to me in detail all that +had happened. We concluded that we could only enter the harbor by force, +and that the settlement must not be given up for this year, so that we +considered it best, in order not to make a bad cause out of a just one, and +thus work our ruin, to give them assurances on my part so long as I should +remain there, and that Pont Gravé should undertake nothing against them, +but that justice should be done in France, and their differences should be +settled there. + +Darache, master of the vessel, begged me to go on board, where he gave me a +cordial reception. After a long conference, I secured an agreement between +Pont Gravé and him, and required him to promise that he would undertake +nothing against Pont Gravé, or what would be prejudicial to the King and +Sieur de Monts; that, if he did the contrary, I should regard my promise as +null and void. This was agreed to, and signed by each. + +In this place were a number of savages who had come for traffic in furs, +several of whom came to our vessel with their canoes, which are from eight +to nine paces long, and about a pace or pace and a half broad in the +middle, growing narrower towards the two ends. They are very apt to turn +over, in case one does not understand managing them, and are made of birch +bark, strengthened on the inside by little ribs of white cedar, very neatly +arranged; they are so light that a man can easily carry one. Each can carry +a weight equal to that of a pipe. When they want to go overland to a river +where they have business, they carry them with them. From Choüacoet along +the coast as far as the harbor of Tadoussac, they are all alike. + + +ENDNOTES: + +283. Champlain arrived on the shores of America on the 8th of May, 1604, + and left on the 3rd of September, 1607. He had consequently been on + our coast three years, three months, and twenty-five days. + +284. _The late King Henry the Great_. Henry IV. died in 1610, and this + introductory passage was obviously written after that event, probably + near the time of the publication of his voyages in 1613. + +285. In the preliminary voyage of 1603, Champlain ascended the St. Lawrence + as far as the falls of St. Louis, above Montreal. + +286. The contribution by Henry IV. did not probably extend beyond the + monopoly of the fur-trade granted by him in this commission. + +287. This, we presume, was the act abrogating the charter of De Monts + granted in 1603. + +288. This cape still retains its ancient name, and is situated between + St. Mary's Bay and Placentia Bay. + +289. Cape St. Lawrence is the northernmost extremity of the Island of Cape + Breton, and the Island of St. Paul is twenty miles north-east of it. + +290. The Isle Percée, or pierced island, is a short distance north of the + Island of Bonaventure, at the entrance of Mal Bay, near the village of + Percée, where there is a government light. Gaspé Bay is some miles + farther north. "Below the bay," says Charlevoix, "we perceive a kind + of island, which is only a steep rock about thirty fathoms long, ten + high, and four in breadth: it looks like part of an old wall, and they + say it joined formerly to _Mount Ioli_, which is over against it on + the continent. This rock has in the midst of it an opening like an + arch, under which a boat of Biscay may pass with its sail up, and this + has given it the name of the _pierced island_."--_Letters to the + Duchess of Lesdiguières_, by Francis Xavier de Charlevoix, London, + 1763, p. 12. + +291. The position in the roadstead was south-east of the harbor, so that + the harbor was seen on the north-west. Charlevoix calls it Moulin + Baude. The reader will find the position indicated by the letter M on + Champlain's map of the Port of Tadoussac. Baude Moulin (Baude Mill), + directly north of it, was probably a mill _privilege_. Charlevoix, in + 1720, anchored there, and asked them to show him the mill; and they + showed him some rocks, from which issued a stream of clear water. He + adds, they might build a water-mill here, but probably it will never + be done. + +292. _Pointe de tous les Diables_. Now known as Pointe aux Vaches, _cows_. + The point on the other side of the river is still called Pointe aux + Alouettes, or Lark Point. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +OF THE RIVER SAGUENAY, AND THE SAVAGES WHO VISITED US THERE.--OF THE ISLAND +OF ORLEANS, AND ALL THAT WE OBSERVED THERE WORTHY OF NOTE. + +After this agreement, I had some carpenters set to work to fit up a little +barque of twelve or fourteen tons, for carrying all that was needed for our +settlement, which, however, could not be got ready before the last of June. + +Meanwhile, I managed to visit some parts of the river Saguenay, a fine +river, which has the incredible depth of some one hundred and fifty to two +hundred fathoms. [293] About fifty leagues from the mouth of the harbor, +there is, as is said, a great waterfall, descending from a very high +elevation with great impetuosity. There are some islands in this river, +very barren, being only rocks covered with small firs and heathers. It is +half a league broad in places, and a quarter of a league at its mouth, +where the current is so strong that at three-quarters flood-tide in the +river it is still running out. All the land that I have seen consists only +of mountains and rocky promontories, for the most part covered with fir and +birch, a very unattractive country on both sides of the river. In a word, +it is mere wastes, uninhabited by either animals or birds; for, going out +hunting in places which seemed to me the most pleasant, I found only some +very small birds, such as swallows and river birds, which go there in +summer. At other times, there are none whatever, in consequence of the +excessive cold. This river flows from the north-west. + +The savages told me that, after passing the first fall, they meet with +eight others, when they go a day's journey without finding any. Then they +pass ten others, and enter a lake, [294] which they are three days in +crossing, and they are easily able to make ten leagues a day up stream. At +the end of the lake there dwells a migratory people. Of the three rivers +which flow into this lake, one comes from the north, very near the sea, +where they consider it much colder than in their own country; and the other +two from other directions in the interior, [295] where are migratory +savages, living only from hunting, and where our savages carry the +merchandise we give them for their furs, such as beaver, marten, lynx, and +otter, which are found there in large numbers, and which they then carry to +our vessels. These people of the north report to our savages that they see +the salt sea; and, if that is true, as I think it certainly is, it can be +nothing but a gulf entering the interior on the north. [296] The savages +say that the distance from the north sea to the port of Tadoussac is +perhaps forty-five or fifty days' journey, in consequence of the +difficulties presented by the roads, rivers, and country, which is very +mountainous, and where there is snow for the most part of the year. This is +what I have definitely ascertained in regard to this river. I have often +wished to explore it, but could not do so without the savages, who were +unwilling that I or any of our party should accompany them. Nevertheless, +they have promised that I shall do so. This exploration would be desirable, +in order to remove the doubts of many persons in regard to the existence of +this sea on the north, where it is maintained that the English have gone in +these latter years to find a way to China. [297] + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +PORT DE TADOUCAC. + +_The figures indicate the fathoms of water_. + +_A_. A round mountain on the bank of the river Saguenay. +_B_. The harbor of Tadoussac. +_C_. A small fresh-water brook. +_D_. The encampment of the savages when they come to traffic. +_E_. A peninsula partly enclosing the port of the river Saguenay. +_F_. Point of All Devils. +_G_. The river Saguenay. +_H_. Point aux Alouettes. +_I_. Very rough mountains covered with firs and beeches. +_L_. The mill Bode. +_M_. The roadstead where vessels anchor while waiting for wind and tide. +_N_. A little pond near the harbor. +_O_. A small brook coming from the pond and flowing into the Saguenay. +_P_. Place without trees near the point where there is a quantity of grass. + + * * * * * + +I set out from Tadoussac the last day of the month to go to Quebec. [298] +We passed near an island called Hare Island, [299] distant six leagues from +the above-named port: it is two leagues from the northern, and nearly four +leagues from the southern shore. From Hare Island we proceeded to a little +river, dry at low tide, up which some seven hundred or eight hundred paces +there are two falls. We named it Salmon River, [300] since we caught some +of these fish in it. Coasting along the north shore, we came to a point +extending into the river, which we called Cap Dauphin, [301] distant three +leagues from Salmon River. Thence we proceeded to another, which we named +Eagle Cape, [302] distant eight leagues from Cap Dauphin. Between the two +there is a large bay, [303] at the extremity of which is a little river dry +at low tide. From Eagle Cape, we proceeded to Isle aux Coudres, [304] a +good league distant, which is about a league and a half long. It is nearly +level, and grows narrower towards the two ends. On the western end there +are meadows, and rocky points extending some distance out into the river. +On the south-west side it is very reefy, yet very pleasant in consequence +of the woods surrounding it. It is distant about half a league from the +northern shore, where is a little river extending some distance into the +interior. We named it Rivière du Gouffre, [305] since abreast of it the +tide runs with extraordinary rapidity; and, although it has a calm +appearance, it is always much agitated, the depth there being great: but +the river itself is shallow, and there are many rocks at and about its +mouth. Coasting along from Isle aux Coudres, we reached a cape which we +named Cap de Tourmente, [306] five leagues distant; and we gave it this +name because, however little wind there may be, the water rises there as if +it were full tide. At this point, the water begins to be fresh. Thence we +proceeded to the Island of Orleans, [307] a distance of two leagues, on the +south side of which are numerous islands, low, covered with trees and very +pleasant, with large meadows, having plenty of game, some being, so far as +I could judge, two leagues in length, others a trifle more or less. About +these islands are many rocks, also very dangerous shallows, some two +leagues distant from the main land on the South. All this shore, both north +and South, from Tadoussac to the Island of Orleans, is mountainous, and the +soil very poor. The wood is pine, fir, and birch only, with very ugly +rocks, so that in most places one could not make his way. + +Now we passed along south of the Island of Orleans, which is a league and a +half distant from the main land and half a league on the north side, being +six leagues in length, and one in breadth, or in some places a league and a +half. On the north side, it is very pleasant, on account of the great +extent of woods and meadows there; but it is very dangerous sailing, in +consequence of the numerous points and rocks between the main land and +island, on which are numerous fine oaks and in some places nut-trees, and +on the borders of the woods vines and other trees such as we have in +France. This place is the commencement of the fine and fertile country of +the great river, and is distant one hundred and twenty leagues from its +mouth. Off the end of the island is a torrent of water on the north shore, +proceeding from a lake ten leagues in the interior: [308] it comes down +from a height of nearly twenty-five fathoms, above which the land is level +and pleasant, although farther inland are seen high mountains appearing to +be from fifteen to twenty leagues distant. + + +ENDNOTES: + +293. The deepest sounding as laid down on Laurie's Chart is one hundred and + forty-six fathoms. The same authority says the banks of the river + throughout its course are very rocky, and vary in height from one + hundred and seventy to three hundred and forty yards above the stream. + Its current is broad, deep, and uncommonly vehement: in some places, + where precipices intervene, are falls from fifty to sixty feet in + height, down which the whole volume of water rushes with tremendous + fury and noise. The general breadth of the river is about two and a + half miles, but at its mouth its width is contracted to three-quarters + of a mile. The tide runs upward about sixty-five miles from its mouth. + +294. If the Indians were three days in crossing Lake St. John here referred + to, whose length is variously stated to be from twenty-five to forty + miles, it could hardly have been the shortest time in which it were + possible to pass it. It may have been the usual time, some of which + they gave to fishing or hunting. "In 1647, Father Jean Duquen, + missionary at Tadoussac, ascending the Saguenay, discovered the Lake + St. John, and noted its Indian name, Picouagami, or Flat Lake. He was + the first European who beheld that magnificent expanse of inland + water."--_Vide Transactions, Lit. and His. Soc. of Quebec_, 1867-68, + p. 5. + +295. The first of these three rivers, which the traveller will meet as he + passes up the northern shore of the lake, is the Peribonca flowing + from the north-east. The second is the Mistassina, represented by the + Indians as coming from the salt sea. The third is the Chomouchonan, + flowing from the north-west. + +296. There was doubtless an Indian trail from the head-waters of the + Mistassina to Mistassin Lake, and from thence to Rupert River, which + flows into the lower part of Hudson's Bay. + +297. The salt sea referred to by the Indians was undoubtedly Hudson's Bay. + The discoverer of this bay, Henry Hudson, in the years 1607, 1608, and + 1609, was in the northern ocean searching for a passage to Cathay. In + 1610, he discovered the strait and bay which now bear his name. He + passed the winter in the southern part of the bay; and the next year, + 1611, his sailors in a mutiny forced him and his officers into a + shallop and abandoned them to perish. Nothing was heard of them + afterward. The fame of Hudson's discovery had reached Champlain + before the publication of this volume in 1613. This will be apparent + by comparing Champlain's small map with the TABULA NAUTICA of Hudson, + published in 1612. It will be seen that the whole of the Carte + Géographique de la Nouvelle France of Champlain, on the west of + Lumley's Inlet, including Hudson's Strait and Bay, is a copy from the + Tabula Nautica. Even the names are in English, a few characteristic + ones being omitted, such as Prince Henry, the King's Forlant, and Cape + Charles.--_Vide Henry Hudson the Navigator_, by G. M. Asher, LL.D., + Hakluyt Society, 1860, p. xliv. + +298. This was June 30, 1608. + +299. _Isle aux Lièvres_, or hares. This name was given by Jacques Cartier, + and it is still called Hare Island. It is about ten geographical miles + long, and generally about half or three-quarters of a mile wide. + +300. _Rivière aux Saulmons_. "From all appearances," says Laverdière, "this + Salmon River is that which empties into the 'Port à l'Équilles,' eel + harbor, also called 'Port aux Quilles,' Skittles Port. Its mouth is + two leagues from Cape Salmon, with which it must not be confounded." + It is now known as Black River. + +301. _Cap Dauphin_, now called Cape Salmon, which is about three leagues + from Black River. + +302. _Cap à l'Aigle_, now known as Cap aux Oies, or Goose Cape. The Eagle + Cape of to-day is little more than two leagues from Cape Salmon, while + Goose Cape is about eight leagues, as stated in the text. + +303. The bay stretching between Cape Salmon and Goose Cape is called Mal + Bay, within which are Cape Eagle, Murray Bay, Point au Ries, White + Cape, Red Cape, Black Cape, Point Père, Point Corneille, and Little + Mal Bay. In the rear of Goose Cape are Les Éboulemens Mountains, 2,547 + feet in height. On the opposite side of the river is Point Ouelle, and + the river of the same name. + +304. _Isle aux Coudres_, Hazel Island, so named by Jacques Cartier, still + retains its ancient appellation. Its distance from Goose Cape is about + two leagues. The description of it in the text is very accurate. + +305. _Rivière du Gouffre_. This river still retains this name, signifying + whirlpool, and is the same that empties into St. Paul's Bay, opposite + Isle-aux Coudres. + +306. _Cap de Tourmente_, cape of the tempest, is eight leagues from Isle + aux Coudres, but about two from the Isle of Orleans, as stated in the + text, which sufficiently identifies it. + +307. _Isle d'Orléans_. Cartier discovered this island in 1635, and named it + the Island of Bacchus, because he saw vines growing there, which he + had not before seen in that region. He says, "Et pareillement y + trouuasmes force vignes, ce que n'auyons veu par cy deuant à toute la + terre, & par ce la nommasmes l'ysle de Bacchus."--_Brief Récit de la + Navigation Faite en MDXXXV._, par Jacques Cartier, D'Avezac ed., + Paris, 1863, pp. 14, 15. The grape found here was probably the Frost + Grape, _Vitis cordifolia_. The "Island of Orleans" soon became the + fixed name of this island, which it still retains. Its Indian name is + said to have been _Minigo_.--_Vide_ Laverdière's interesting note, + _Oeuvres de Champlain_, Tome II, p. 24. Champlain's estimate of the + size of the island is nearly accurate. It is, according to the + Admiralty charts, seventeen marine miles in length, and four in its + greatest width. + +308. This was the river Montmorency, which rises in Snow Lake, some fifty + miles in the interior.--_Vide_ Champlain's reference on his map of + Quebec and its environs. He gave this name to the river, which it + still retains, in honor of the Admiral Montmorency, to whom he + dedicated his notes on the voyage of 1603.--_Vide Laverdière_, in + loco; also _Champlain_, ed. 1632; _Chiarlevoix's Letters_, London, + 1763, p. 19. The following is Jean Alfonse's description of the fall + of Montmorency: "When thou art come to the end of the Isle, thou shall + see a great River, which falleth fifteene or twenty fathoms downe from + a rocke, and maketh a terrible noyse."--_Hakluyt, Vol. III. p. 293. + The perpendicular descent of the Montmorency at the falls is 240 feet. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +ARRIVAL AT QUEBEC, WHERE WE CONSTRUCTED OUR PLACE OF ABODE; ITS SITUATION. +--CONSPIRACY AGAINST THE SERVICE OF THE KING AND MY LIFE. BY SOME OF OUR +MEN--PUNISHMENT OF THEM, AND ALL THAT TRANSPIRED OF THE AFFAIR. + + +From the Island of Orleans to Quebec the distance is a league. I arrived +there on the 3d of July, when I searched for a place suitable for our +settlement, but I could find none more convenient or better situated than +the point of Quebec, so called by the savages, [309] which was covered with +nut-trees. I at once employed a portion of our workmen in cutting them +down, that we might construct our habitation there: one I set to sawing +boards, another to making a cellar and digging ditches, another I sent to +Tadoussac with the barque to get supplies. The first thing we made was the +storehouse for keeping under cover our supplies, which was promptly +accomplished through the zeal of all, and my attention to the work. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +QUEBEC. + +_The figures indicate the fathoms of water_. + +_A_. The site where our habitation is built. [Note 1] +_B_. Cleared land where we sow wheat and other grain. [Note 2] +_C_. The gardens.[Note 3] +_D_. small brook coming from marshes. [Note 4] +_E_. River where Jacques Cartier passed the winter, which in his time he + called St. Croix, and which name has been transferred to a place + fifteen leagues above Quebec. [Note 5] +_F_. River of the marshes. [Note 6] +_G_. Place where was collected the grass for the animals brought here. + [Note 7] +_H_. The grand fall of Montmorency, which descends from a height of more + than twenty-five fathoms into the river. [Note 8] +_I_. The end of the Island of Orleans. +_L_. A very narrow point on the shore east of Quebec. [Note 9] +_M_. Roaring river which extends to the Etechemins. +_N_. The great river of St. Lawrence. +_O_. Lake in the roaring river. +_P_. Mountains in the interior; bay which I named New Biscay, +_q_. Lake of the great fall of Montmorency. [Note 10] +_R_. Bear Brook. [Note 11] +_S_. Brook du Gendre. [Note 12] +_T_. Meadows overflowed at every tide. +_V_. Mont du Gas, very high, situated on the bank of the river. [Note 13] +_X_. Swift brook, adapted to all kinds of mills. +_Y_. Gravelly shore where a quantity of diamonds are found somewhat better + than those of Alanson. +_Z_. The Point of Diamonds. +_9_. Places where the savages often build their cabins. [Note 14] + +NOTES. The following notes on Champlain's explanation of his map of Quebec +are by the Abbé Laverdière, whose accurate knowledge of that city and its +environs renders them especially valuable. They are given entire, with only +slight modifications. + +1. That is properly the point of Quebec, including what is at present + enclosed by La Place, the street Notre Dame, and the river. + +2. This first clearing must have been what was called later the Esplanade + du Fort, or Grande Place, or perhaps both. The Grande Place became, in + 1658, the fort of the Hurons: it was the space included between the Côte + of the lower town and the Rue du Fort. + +3. A little above the gardens, on the slope of the Côte du Saut au Matelot, + a cross is seen, which seems to indicate that at that time the cemetery + was where it is said to be when it is mentioned some years later for the + first time. + +4. According to the old plans of Quebec, these marshes were represented to + be west of Mont Carmel, and at the foot of the glacis of the Citadel. + The brook pulled eastward of the grounds of the Ursulines and Jésuites, + followed for some distance the Rue de la Fabrique as far as the + enclosure of the Hôtel Dieu, to the east of which it ran down the hill + towards the foot of the Côte de la Canoterie. + +5. The river St. Charles. The letter E does not indicate precisely the + place where Jacques Quartier wintered, but only the mouth of the river. + +6. Judging from the outlines of the shore, this brook, which came from the + south-west, flowed into the harbor of the Palais, towards the western + extremity of the Parc. + +7. This is probably what was called later the barn of the Messieurs de la + Compagnie, or simply La Grange, and appears to have been somewhere on + the avenue of Mont Carmel. + +8. The fall of Montmorency is forty fathoms or two hundred and forty French + feet, or even more. + +9. Hence it is seen that in 1613 this point had as yet no name. In 1629, + Champlain calls it Cap de Lévis: it can accordingly be concluded that + this point derives its name from that of the Duc de Ventadour, Henri de + Lévis, and that it must have been so named between the years 1625 and + 1627, the time when he was regent. + +10. The Lake of the Snows is the source of the western branch of the + Rivière du Saut. + +11. La Rivière de Beauport, which is called likewise La Distillerie. + +12. Called later Ruisseau de la Cabaneaux Taupiers. Rivière Chalisour, and + finally Rivière des Fous, from the new insane asylum, by the site of + which it now passes. + +13. Height where is now situated the bastion of the Roi à la Citadelle. + This name was given it, doubtless, in memory of M. de Monts, Pierre du + Guast. + +14. This figure appears not only at the Point du Cap Diamant, but also + along the shore of Beauport, and at the end of the Island of Orleans. + + * * * * * + +Some days after my arrival at Quebec, a locksmith conspired against the +service of the king. His plan was to put me to death, and, getting +possession of our fort, to put it into the hands of the Basques or +Spaniards, then at Tadoussac, beyond which vessels cannot go, from not +having a knowledge of the route, nor of the banks and rocks on the way. + +In order to execute his wretched plan, by which he hoped to make his +fortune, he suborned four of the worst characters, as he supposed, telling +them a thousand falsehoods, and presenting to them prospects of acquiring +riches. + +These four men, having been won over, all promised to act in such a manner +as to gain the rest over to their side; so that, for the time being, I had +no one with me in whom I could put confidence, which gave them still more +hope of making their plan succeed: for four or five of my companions, in +whom they knew that I put confidence, were on board of the barques, for the +purpose of protecting the provisions and supplies necessary for our +settlement. + +In a word, they were so skilful in carrying out their intrigues with those +who remained, that they were on the point of gaining all over to their +cause, even my lackey, promising them many things which they could not have +fulfilled. + +Being now all agreed, they made daily different plans as to how they should +put me to death, so as not to be accused of it, which they found to be a +difficult thing. But the devil, blindfolding them all and taking away their +reason and every possible difficulty, they determined to take me while +unarmed, and strangle me; or to give a false alarm at night, and shoot me +as I went out, in which manner they judged that they would accomplish their +work sooner than otherwise. They made a mutual promise not to betray each +other, on penalty that the first one who opened his mouth should be +poniarded. They were to execute their plan in four days, before the +arrival of our barques, otherwise they would have been unable to carry out +their scheme. + +On this very day, one of our barques arrived, with our pilot, Captain +Testu, a very discreet man. After the barque was unloaded, and ready to +return to Tadoussac, there came to him a locksmith, named Natel, an +associate of Jean du Val, the head of the conspiracy, who told him that he +had promised the rest to do just as they did; but that he did not in fact +desire the execution of the plot, yet did not dare to make a disclosure in +regard to it, from fear of being poniarded. + +Antoine Natel made the pilot promise that he would make no disclosure in +regard to what he should say, since, if his companions should discover it, +they would put him to death. The pilot gave him his assurance in all +particulars, and asked him to state the character of the plot which they +wished to carry out. This Natel did at length, when the pilot said to him: +"My friend, you have done well to disclose such a malicious design, and you +show that you are an upright man, and under the guidance of the Holy +Spirit. But these things cannot be passed by without bringing them to the +knowledge of Sieur de Champlain, that he may make provision against them; +and I promise you that I will prevail upon him to pardon you and the rest. +And I will at once," said the pilot, "go to him without exciting any +suspicion; and do you go about your business, listening to all they may +say, and not troubling yourself about the rest." + +The pilot came at once to me, in a garden which I was having prepared, and +said that he wished to speak to me in a private place, where we could be +alone. I readily assented, and we went into the wood, where he related to +me the whole affair. I asked who had told it to him. He begged me to pardon +him who had made the disclosure, which I consented to do, although he ought +to have addressed himself to me. He was afraid, he replied, that you would +become angry, and harm him. I told him that I was able to govern myself +better than that, in such a matter; and desired him to have the man come to +me, that I might hear his statement. He went, and brought him all trembling +with fear lest I should do him some harm. I reassured him, telling him not +to be afraid; that he was in a place of safety, and that I should pardon +him for all that he had done, together with the others, provided he would +tell me in full the truth in regard to the whole matter, and the motive +which had impelled them to it. "Nothing," he said, "had impelled them, +except that they had imagined that, by giving up the place into the hands +of the Basques or Spaniards, they might all become rich, and that they did +not want to go back to France." He also related to me the remaining +particulars in regard to their conspiracy. + +After having heard and questioned him, I directed him to go about his +work. Meanwhile, I ordered the pilot to bring up his shallop, which he +did. Then I gave two bottles of wine to a young man, directing him to say +to these four worthies, the leaders of the conspiracy, that it was a +present of wine, which his friends at Tadoussac had given him, and that he +wished to share it with them. This they did not decline, and at evening +were on board the barque where he was to give them the entertainment. I +lost no time in going there shortly after; and caused them to be seized, +and held until the next day. + +Then were my worthies astonished indeed. I at once had all get up, for it +was about ten o'clock in the evening, and pardoned them all, on condition +that they would disclose to me the truth in regard to all that had +occurred; which they did, when I had them retire. + +The next day I took the depositions of all, one after the other, in the +presence of the pilot and sailors of the vessel, which I had put down in +writing; and they were well pleased, as they said, since they had lived +only in fear of each other, especially of the four knaves who had ensnared +them. But now they lived in peace, satisfied, as they declared, with the +treatment which they had received. + +The same day I had six pairs of handcuffs made for the authors of the +conspiracy: one for our surgeon, named Bonnerme, one for another, named La +Taille, whom the four conspirators had accused, which, however, proved +false, and consequently they were given their liberty. + +This being done, I took my worthies to Tadoussac, begging Pont Gravé to do +me the favor of guarding them, since I had as yet no secure place for +keeping them, and as we were occupied in constructing our places of abode. +Another object was to consult with him, and others on the ship, as to what +should be done in the premises. We suggested that, after he had finished +his work at Tadoussac, he should come to Quebec with the prisoners, where +we should have them confronted with their witnesses, and, after giving them +a hearing, order justice to be done according to the offence which they had +committed. + +I went back the next day to Quebec, to hasten the completion of our +storehouse, so as to secure our provisions, which had been misused by all +those scoundrels, who spared nothing, without reflecting how they could +find more when these failed; for I could not obviate the difficulty until +the storehouse should be completed and shut up. + +Pont Gravé arrived some time after me, with the prisoners, which caused +uneasiness to the workmen who remained, since they feared that I should +pardon them, and that they would avenge themselves upon them for revealing +their wicked design. + +We had them brought face to face, and they affirmed before them all which +they had stated in their depositions, the prisoners not denying it, but +admitting that they had acted in a wicked manner, and should be punished, +unless mercy might be exercised towards them; accursing, above all, Jean du +Val, who had been trying to lead them into such a conspiracy from the time +of their departure from France. Du Val knew not what to say, except that he +deserved death, that all stated in the depositions was true, and that he +begged for mercy upon himself and the others, who had given in their +adherence to his pernicious purposes. + +After Pont Gravé and I, the captain of the vessel, surgeon, mate, second +mate, and other sailors, had heard their depositions and face to face +statements, we adjudged that it would be enough to put to death Du Val, as +the instigator of the conspiracy; and that he might serve as an example to +those who remained, leading them to deport themselves correctly in future, +in the discharge of their duty; and that the Spaniards and Basques, of whom +there were large numbers in the country, might not glory in the event. We +adjudged that the three others be condemned to be hung, but that they +should be taken to France and put into the hands of Sieur de Monts, that +such ample justice might be done them as he should recommend; that they +should be sent with all the evidence and their sentence, as well as that of +Jean du Val, who was strangled and hung at Quebec, and his head was put on +the end of a pike, to be set up in the most conspicuous place on our fort. + + +ENDNOTES: + +309. Champlain here plainly means to say that the Indians call the narrow + place in the river _Quebec_. For this meaning of the word, viz., + narrowing of waters, in the Algonquin language, the authority is + abundant. Laverdière quotes, as agreeing with him in this view, + Bellenger, Ferland, and Lescarbot. "The narrowing of the river," says + Charlevoix, "gave it the name of _Quebeio_ or _Quebec_, which in the + _Algonquin_ language signifies _contraction_. The Abenaquis, whose + language is a dialect of the Algonquin, call it Quelibec, which + signifies something shut up."--_Charlevoix's Letters_, pp. 18, 19. + Alfred Hawkins, in his "Historical Recollections of Quebec," regards + the word of Norman origin, which he finds on a seal of the Duke of + Suffolk, as early as 1420. The theory is ingenious: but it requires + some other characteristic historical facts to challenge our belief. + When Cartier visited Quebec, it was called by the natives Stadacone. + --_Vide Cartier's Brief Récit_, 1545, D'Avezac ed., Paris, 1863, + p. 14. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +RETURN OF PONT GRAVÉ TO FRANCE.--DESCRIPTION OF OUR QUARTERS AND THE PLACE +WHERE JACQUES CARTIER STAYED IN 1535. + + +After all these occurrences, Pont Gravé set out from Quebec, on the 18th of +September, to return to France with the three prisoners. After he had gone, +all who remained conducted themselves correctly in the discharge of their +duty. + +I had the work on our quarters continued, which was composed of three +buildings of two stories. Each one was three fathoms long, and two and a +half wide. The storehouse was six fathoms long and three wide, with a fine +cellar six feet deep. I had a gallery made all around our buildings, on the +outside, at the second story, which proved very convenient. There were +also ditches, fifteen feet wide and six deep. On the outer side of the +ditches, I constructed several spurs, which enclosed a part of the +dwelling, at the points where we placed our cannon. Before the habitation +there is a place four fathoms wide and six or seven long, looking out upon +the river-bank. Surrounding the habitation are very good gardens, and a +place on the north side some hundred or hundred and twenty paces long and +fifty or sixty wide. Moreover, near Quebec, there is a little river, coming +from a lake in the interior, [310] distant six or seven leagues from our +settlement. I am of opinion that this river, which is north a quarter +north-west from our settlement, is the place where Jacques Cartier +wintered, [311] since there are still, a league up the river, remains of +what seems to have been a chimney, the foundation of which has been found, +and indications of there having been ditches surrounding their dwelling, +which was small. We found, also, large pieces of hewn, worm-eaten timber, +and some three or four cannon-balls. All these things show clearly that +there was a settlement there founded by Christians; and what leads me to +say and believe that it was that of Jacques Cartier is the fact that there +is no evidence whatever that any one wintered and built a house in these +places except Jacques Cartier, at the time of his discoveries. This place, +as I think, must have been called St. Croix, as he named it; which name +has since been transferred to another place fifteen leagues west of our +settlement. But there is no evidence of his having wintered in the place +now called St. Croix, nor in any other there, since in this direction there +is no river or other place large enough for vessels except the main river +or that of which I spoke above; here there is half a fathom of water at low +tide, many rocks, and a bank at the mouth; for vessels, if kept in the main +river, where there are strong currents and tides, and ice in the winter, +drifting along, would run the risk of being lost; especially as there is a +sandy point extending out into the river, and filled with rocks, between +which we have found, within the last three years, a passage not before +discovered; but one must go through cautiously, in consequence of the +dangerous points there. This place is exposed to the north-west winds; a +half fathoms. There are no signs of buildings here, nor any indications +that a man of judgment would settle in this place, there being many other +better ones, in case one were obliged to make a permanent stay. I have been +desirous of speaking at length on this point, since many believe that the +abode of Jacques Cartier was here, which I do not believe, for the reasons +here given; for Cartier would have left to posterity a narrative of the +matter, as he did in the case of all he saw and discovered; and I maintain +that my opinion is the true one, as can be shown by the history which he +has left, in writing. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +ABITATION DE QUEBECQ. + +_A_. The storehouse. +_B_. Dove-cote. +_C_. A building where our arms are kept, and for lodging our workmen. +_D_. Another building for our workmen. +_E_. Dial. +_F_. Another building, comprising the blacksmith's shop and the lodgings of + the mechanics. +_G_. Galleries extending entirely round the dwellings. +_H_. The dwelling of Sieur de Champlain. +_I_. Gate to the habitation where there is a drawbridge. +_L_. Promenade about the habitation ten feet wide, extending to the border + of the moat. +_M_. Moat extending all round our habitation. +_N_. Platforms, of a tenaille form, for our cannon. +_O_. Garden of Sieur de Champlain. +_P_. The kitchen. +_Q_. Open space before the habitation on the bank of the river. +_R_. The great river St. Lawrence. + + * * * * * + +As still farther proof that this place now called St. Croix is not the +place where Jacques Cartier wintered, as most persons think, this is what +he says about it in his discoveries, taken from his history; namely, that +he arrived at the Isle aux Coudres on the 5th of December, [312] 1535, +which he called by this name, as hazel-nuts were found there. There is a +strong tidal current in this place; and he says that it is three leagues +long, but it is quite enough to reckon a league and a half. On the 7th of +the month, Notre Dame Day, [313] he set out from this island to go up the +river, in which he saw fourteen islands, distant seven or eight leagues +from Isle aux Coudres on the south. He errs somewhat in this estimation, +for it is not more than three leagues. [314] He also says that the place +where the islands are is the commencement of the land or province of +Canada, and that he reached an island ten leagues long and five wide, where +extensive fisheries are carried on, fish being here, in fact, very +abundant, especially the sturgeon. But its length is not more than six +leagues, and its breadth two; a fact well recognized now. He says also that +he anchored between this island and the main land on the north, the +smallest passage, and a dangerous one, where he landed two savages whom he +had taken to France, and that, after stopping in this place some time with +the people of the country, he sent for his barques and went farther up the +river, with the tide, seeking a harbor and place of security for his ships. +He says, farther, that they went on up the river, coasting along this +island, the length of which he estimates at ten leagues; and after it was +passed they found a very fine and pleasant bay, containing a little river +and bar harbor, which they found very favorable for sheltering their +vessels. This they named St. Croix, since he arrived there on this day; and +at the time of the voyage of Cartier the place was called Stadaca, [315] +but we now call it Quebec. He says, also, that after he had examined this +place he returned to get his vessels for passing the winter there. + +Now we may conclude, accordingly, that the distance is only five leagues +from the Isle aux Coudres to the Isle of Orleans, [316] at the western +extremity of which the river is very broad; and at which bay, as Cartier +calls it, there is no other river than that which he called St. Croix, a +good league distant from the Isle of Orleans, in which, at low tide, there +is only half a fathom of water. It is very dangerous for vessels at its +mouth, there being a large number of spurs; that is, rocks scattered here +and there. It is accordingly necessary to place buoys in order to enter, +there being, as I have stated, three fathoms of water at ordinary tides, +and four fathoms, or four and a half generally, at the great tides at full +flood. It is only fifteen hundred paces from our habitation, which is +higher up the river; and, as I have stated, there is no other river up to +the place now called St. Croix, where vessels can lie, there being only +little brooks. The shores are flat and dangerous, which Cartier does not +mention until the time that he sets out from St. Croix, now called Quebec, +where he left his vessels, and built his place of abode, as is seen from +what follows. + +On the 19th of September, he set out from St. Croix, where his vessels +were, setting sail with the tide up the river, which they found very +pleasant, as well on account of the woods, vines, and dwellings, which were +there in his time, as for other reasons. They cast anchor twenty-five +leagues from the entrance to the land of Canada; [317] that is, at the +western extremity of the Isle of Orleans, so called by Cartier. What is +now called St Croix was then called Achelacy, at a narrow pass where the +river is very swift and dangerous on account of the rocks and other things, +and which can only be passed at flood-tide. Its distance from Quebec and +the river where Cartier wintered is fifteen leagues. + +Now, throughout the entire extent of this river, from Quebec to the great +fall, there are no narrows except at the place now called St. Croix; the +name of which has been transferred from one place to another one, which is +very dangerous, as my description shows. And it is very apparent, from his +narrative, that this was not the site of his habitation, as is claimed; but +that the latter was near Quebec, and that no one had entered into a special +investigation of this matter before my doing so in my voyages. For the +first time I was told that he dwelt in this place, I was greatly +astonished, finding no trace of a river for vessels, as he states there +was. This led me to make a careful examination, in order to remove the +suspicion and doubt of many persons in regard to the matter. [318] + +While the carpenters, sawers of boards, and other workmen, were employed on +our quarters, I set all the others to work clearing up around our place of +abode, in preparation for gardens in which to plant grain and seeds, that +we might see how they would flourish, as the soil seemed to be very good. + +Meanwhile, a large number of savages were encamped in cabins near us, +engaged in fishing for eels, which begin to come about the 15th of +September, and go away on the 15th of October. During this time, all the +Savages subsist on this food, and dry enough of it for the winter to last +until the month of February, when there are about two and a half, or at +most three, feet of snow; and, when their eels and other things which they +dry have been prepared, they go to hunt the beaver until the beginning of +January. At their departure for this purpose, they intrusted to us all +their eels and other things, until their return, which was on the 15th of +December. But they did not have great success in the beaver-hunt, as the +amount of water was too great, the rivers having overrun their banks, as +they told us. I returned to them all their supplies, which lasted them only +until the 20th of January. When their supply of eels gave out, they hunted +the elk and such other wild beasts as they could find until spring, when I +was able to supply them with various things. I paid especial attention to +their customs. + +These people suffer so much from lack of food that they are sometimes +obliged to live on certain shell-fish, and eat their dogs and the skins +with which they clothe themselves against the cold. I am of opinion that, +if one were to show them how to live, and teach them the cultivation of the +soil and other things, they would learn very aptly. For many of them +possess good sense, and answer properly questions put to them. They have a +bad habit of taking vengeance, and are great liars, and you must not put +much reliance on them, except judiciously, and with force at hand. They +make promises readily, but keep their word poorly. The most of them observe +no law at all, so far as I have been able to see, and are, besides, full of +superstitions. I asked them with what ceremonies they were accustomed to +pray to their God, when they replied that they had none, but that each +prayed to him in his heart, as he wished. That is why there is no law among +them, and they do not know what it is to worship and pray to God, living as +they do like brute beasts. But I think that they would soon become good +Christians, if people would come and inhabit their country, which they are +for the most part desirous of. There are some savages among them, called by +them Pilotais, whom they believe have intercourse with the devil face to +face, who tells them what they must do in regard to war and other things; +and, if he should order them to execute any undertaking, they would obey at +once. So, also, they believe that all their dreams are true; and, in fact, +there are many who say that they have had visions and dreams about matters +which actually come to pass or will do so. But, to tell the truth, these +are diabolical visions, through which they are deceived and misled. This is +all I have been able to learn about their brutish faith. All these people +are well proportioned in body, without deformity, and are agile. The women, +also, are well-formed, plump, and of a swarthy color, in consequence of +certain pigments with which they rub themselves, and which give them a +permanent olive color. They are dressed in skins: a part only of the body +is covered. But in winter they are covered throughout, in good furs of elk, +otter, beaver, bear, seals, deer, and roe, of which they have large +quantities. In winter, when the snow is deep, they make a sort of snow-shoe +of large size, two or three times as large as that used in France, which +they attach to their feet, thus going over the snow without sinking in; +otherwise, they could not hunt or walk in many places. They have a sort of +marriage, which is as follows: When a girl is fourteen or fifteen years +old, and has several suitors, she may keep company with all she likes. At +the end of five or six years, she takes the one that pleases her for her +husband, and they live together to the end of their lives. But if, after +living some time together, they have no children, the man can disunite +himself and take another woman, alleging that his own is good for nothing. +Hence, the girls have greater freedom than the married women. + +After marriage, the women are chaste, and their husbands generally +jealous. They give presents to the fathers or relatives of the girls they +have wedded. These are the ceremonies and forms observed in their +marriages. In regard to their burials: When a man or a woman dies, they dig +a pit, in which they put all their property, as kettles, furs, axes, bows, +arrows, robes, and other things. Then they place the body in the pit and +cover it with earth, putting, on top many large pieces of wood, and another +piece upright, painted red on the upper part. They believe in the +immortality of the soul, and say that they shall be happy in other lands +with their relatives and friends who are dead. In the case of captains or +others of some distinction, they celebrate a banquet three times a year +after their death, singing and dancing about the grave. + +All the time they were with us, which was the most secure place for them, +they did not cease to fear their enemies to such an extent that they often +at night became alarmed while dreaming, and sent their wives and children +to our fort, the gates of which I had opened to them, allowing the men to +remain about the fort, but not permitting them to enter, for their persons +were thus as much in security as if they had been inside. I also had five +or six of our men go out to reassure them, and to go and ascertain whether +they could see any thing in the woods, in order to quiet them. They are +very timid and in great dread of their enemies, scarcely ever sleeping in +repose in whatever place they may be, although I constantly reassured them, +so far as I could, urging them to do as we did; namely, that they should +have a portion watch while the others slept, that each one should have his +arms in readiness like him who was keeping watch, and that they should not +regard dreams as the actual truth to be relied upon, since they are mostly +only false, to which I also added other words on the same subject. But +these remonstrances were of little avail with them, and they said that we +knew better than they how to keep guard against all things; and that they, +in course of time, if we continued to stay with them, would be able to +learn it. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +SEEDS AND VINES PLANTED AT QUEBEC.--COMMENCEMENT OF THE WINTER AND ICE.-- +EXTREME DESTITUTION OF CERTAIN INDIANS. + + +On the 1st of October, I had some wheat sown, and on the 15th some rye. On +the 3d, there was a white frost in some places, and the leaves of the trees +began to fall on the 15th. On the 24th, I had some native vines set out, +which flourished very well. But, after leaving the settlement to go to +France, they were all spoiled from lack of attention, at which I was much +troubled on my return. On the 18th of November, there was a great fall of +snow, which remained only two days on the ground, during which time there +was a violent gale of wind. There died during this month a sailor and our +locksmith [319] of dysentery, so also many Indians from eating eels badly +cooked, as I think. On the 5th of February, it snowed violently, and the +wind was high for two days. On the 20th, some Indians appeared on the other +side of the river, calling to us to go to their assistance, which was +beyond our power, on account of the large amount of ice drifting in the +river. Hunger pressed upon these poor wretches so severely that, not +knowing what to do, they resolved, men, women, and children, to cross the +river or die, hoping that I should assist them in their extreme want. +Having accordingly made this resolve, the men and women took the children +and embarked in their canoes, thinking that they could reach our shore by +an opening in the ice made by the wind; but they were scarcely in the +middle of the stream when their canoes were caught by the ice and broken +into a thousand pieces. But they were skilful enough to throw themselves +with the children, which the women carried on their backs, on a large piece +of ice. As they were on it, we heard them crying out so that it excited +intense pity, as before them there seemed nothing but death. But fortune +was so favorable to these poor wretches that a large piece of ice struck +against the side of that on which they were, so violently as to drive them +ashore. On seeing this favorable turn, they reached the shore with as much +delight as they ever experienced, notwithstanding the great hunger from +which they were suffering. They proceeded to our abode, so thin and haggard +that they seemed like mere skeletons, most of them not being able to hold +themselves up. I was astonished to see them, and observe the manner in +which they had crossed, in view of their being so feeble and weak. I +ordered some bread and beans to be given them. So great was their +impatience to eat them, that they could not wait to have them cooked. I +lent them also some bark, which other savages had given me, to cover their +cabins. As they were making their cabin, they discovered a piece of +carrion, which I had had thrown out nearly two months before to attract the +foxes, of which we caught black and red ones, like those in France, but +with heavier fur. This carrion consisted of a sow and a dog, which had +sustained all the rigors of the weather, hot and cold. When the weather was +mild, it stank so badly that one could not go near it. Yet they seized it +and carried it off to their cabin, where they forthwith devoured it half +cooked. No meat ever seemed to them to taste better. I sent two or three +men to warn them not to eat it, unless they wanted to die: as they +approached their cabin, they smelt such a stench from this carrion half +warmed up, each one of the Indians holding a piece in his hand, that they +thought they should disgorge, and accordingly scarcely stopped at all. +These poor wretches finished their repast. I did not fail, however, to +supply them according to my resources; but this was little, in view of the +large number of them. In the space of a month, they would have eaten up all +our provisions, if they had had them in their power, they are so +gluttonous: for, when they have edibles, they lay nothing aside, but keep +consuming them day and night without respite, afterwards dying of hunger. +They did also another thing as disgusting as that just mentioned. I had +caused a bitch to be placed on the top of a tree, which allured the martens +[320] and birds of prey, from which I derived pleasure, since generally +this carrion was attacked by them. These savages went to the tree, and, +being too weak to climb it, cut it down and forthwith took away the dog, +which was only skin and bones, the tainted head emitting a stench, but +which was at once devoured. + +This is the kind of enjoyment they experience for the most part in winter; +for in summer they are able to support themselves, and to obtain provisions +so as not to be assailed by such extreme hunger, the rivers abounding in +fish, while birds and wild animals fill the country about. The soil is very +good and well adapted for tillage, if they would but take pains to plant +Indian corn, as all their neighbors do, the Algonquins, Ochastaiguins, +[321] and Iroquois, who are not attacked by such extremes of hunger, which +they provide against by their carefulness and foresight, so that they live +happily in comparison with the Montagnais, Canadians, and Souriquois along +the seacoast. This is in the main their wretched manner of life. The show +and ice last three months there, from January to the 8th of April, when it +is nearly all melted: at the latest, it is only seldom that any is seen at +the end of the latter month at our settlement. It is remarkable that so +much snow and ice as there is on the river, and which is from two to three +fathoms thick, is all melted in less than twelve days. From Tadoussac to +Gaspé, Cape Breton, Newfoundland, and the Great Bay, the snow and ice +continue in most places until the end of May, at which time the entire +entrance of the great river is sealed with ice; although at Quebec there is +none at all, showing a strange difference for one hundred and twenty +leagues in longitude, for the entrance to the river is in latitude 49° 50' +to 51°, and our settlement [322] in 46° 40'. + + +ENDNOTES: + +310. The river St. Charles flows from a lake in the interior of the same + name. It was called by the Montagnais, according to Sagard as cited by + Laverdière, _in loco_, "Cabirecoubat, because it turns and forms + several points." Cartier named it the Holy Cross, or St. Croix, + because he says he arrived there "that day;" that is, the day on which + the exaltation of the Cross is celebrated, the 14th of September, + 1535.--_Vide Cartier_, Hakluyt, Vol. III. p. 266. The Récollects gave + it the name of St. Charles, after the grand vicar of Pontoise, Charles + des Boues.--_Laverdière, in loco_. Jacques Cartier wintered on the + north shore of the St. Charles, which he called the St. Croix, or the + Holy Cross, about a league from Quebec. "Hard by, there is, in that + river, one place very narrow, deep, and swift running, but it is not + passing the third part of a league, over against the which there is a + goodly high piece of land, with a towne therein: and the country about + it is very well tilled and wrought, and as good as possibly can be + seene. This is the place and abode of Donnacona, and of our two men we + took in our first voyage, it is called Stadacona ... under which towne + toward the North the river and port of the holy crosse is, where we + staied from the 15 of September until the 16 of May, 1536, and there + our ships remained dry as we said before."--_Vide Jacques Cartier, + Second Voyage_, Hakluyt, Vol. III. p. 277. + +311. The spot where Jacques Cartier wintered was at the junction of the + river Lairet and the St. Charles. + +312. Cartier discovered the Isle of Coudres, that is, the isle of filberts + or hazel-nuts, on the 6th of September, 1535.--_Vide Cartier_, 1545, + D'Avezac ed., Paris, 1863, p. 12. This island is five nautical miles + long, which agrees with the statement of Champlain, and its greatest + width, is two miles and a quarter. + +313. Notre Dame Day, _iour de nostre dame_, should read "Notre Dame Eve." + Cartier says, "Le septiesme iour dudict moys iour nostre-dame_," + etc.--_Idem_, p. 12. Hakluyt renders it, "The seventh of the moneth + being our Ladees even."--Vol. III. p. 265. + +314. As Champlain suggests, these islands are only three leagues higher up + the river; but, as they are on the opposite side, they could not be + compassed in much less than seven or eight leagues, as Cartier + estimates. + +315. This was an error in transcribing. Cartier has Stadacone.--_Vide Brief + Récit_, 1545, D'Avezac ed., p. 14. + +316. The distance, according to Laurie's Chart, is at least twenty-six + nautical miles. + +317. Canada at this time was regarded by the Indians as a limited + territory, situated at or about Quebec. This statement is confirmed by + the testimony of Cartier: "Ledict Donnacona pria nostre cappitaine de + aller le lendemain veoir Canada, Ce que luy promist le dist + cappitaine. Et le lendemam, 13. iour du diet moys, ledict cappitaine + auecques ses gentilz homines accompaigne de cinquante compaignons bien + en ordre, allerèt veoir ledict Donnacona & son peuple, qui est distàt + dou estoient lesdictes nauires d'une lieue."--_Vide Brief Récit_, + 1545, D'Avezac ed., p. 29. Of the above the following is Hakluyt's + translation: "Donnacona their Lord desired our Captaine the next day + to come and see Canada, which he promised to doe: for the next day + being the 13 of the moneth, he with all his Gentlemen and fiftie + Mariners very well appointed, went to visite Donnacona and his people, + about a league from our ships." + + Their ships were at this time at St. Croix, a short distance up the + St. Charles, which flows into the St. Lawrence at Quebec; and the + little Indian village, or camp, which Donnacona called Canada, was at + Quebec. Other passages from Cartier, as well as from Jean Alfonse, + harmonize with this which we have cited. Canada was therefore in + Cartier's time only the name of a very small territory covered by an + Indian village. When it became the centre of French interests, it + assumed a wider meaning. The St. Lawrence was often called the River + of Canada, then the territory on its shores, and finally Canada has + come to comprehend the vast British possessions in America known as + the "Dominion of Canada." + +318. The locality of Cartier's winter-quarters is established by Champlain + with the certainty of an historical demonstration, and yet there are + to be found those whose judgment is so warped by preconceived opinion + that they resist the overwhelming testimony which he brings to bear + upon the subject. Charlevoix makes the St. Croix of Cartier the + Rivière de Jacques Cartier.--_Vide Shea's Charlevoix_, Vol. I. p. 116. + +319. Unless they had more than one locksmith, this must have been Antoine + Natel.--_Vide antea_, p. 178. + +320. _Martres_. The common weasel, _Musltla vulgaris_. + +321. _Ochastaiguins_. This, says Laverdière, is what Champlain first called + the Hurons, from the name of Ochateguin, one of their chiefs. Huron + was a nickname: the proper name of this tribe was Wendot or + Wyandot. They occupied the eastern bank of Lake Huron and the southern + shores of the Georgian Bay. The knowledge of the several tribes here + referred to had been obtained by Champlain, partly from his own + observation and partly from the Indians. The Algommequins or + Algonquins, known at this time to Champlain, were from the region of + the Ottawa. The Yroquois or Iroquois dwelt south of the St. Lawrence + in the State of New York, and comprised what are generally known as + the Five Nations. The Montagnais or Montaignets had their great + trading-post at Tadoussac, and roamed over a vast territory north and + east of that point, and west of it as far as the mountains that + separate the waters of the Saguenay and those of the Ottawa. The name + was given to them by the French from this mountain range. The + Canadians were those about the neighborhood of Quebec. The Souriquois + were of Nova Scotia, and subsequently known as Micmacs. Of most of + these different tribes, Champlain could speak from personal knowledge. + +322. Laverdière gives the exact latitude of Quebec at the Observatory, on + the authority of Captain Bayfield, as 46° 49' 8". + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +THE SCURVY AT QUEBEC.--How THE WINTER PASSED.--DESCRIPTION OF THE PLACE.-- +ARRIVAL AT QUEBEC OF SIEUR DES MARAIS, SON-IN-LAW OF PONT GRAVÉ. + + +The scurvy began very late; namely, in February, and continued until the +middle of April. Eighteen were attacked, and ten died; five others dying of +the dysentery. I had some opened, to see whether they were tainted, like +those I had seen in our other settlements. They were found the same. Some +time after, our surgeon died. [323] All this troubled us very much, on +account of the difficulty we had in attending to the sick. The nature of +this disease I have described before. + +It is my opinion that this disease proceeds only from eating excessively of +salt food and vegetables, which heat the blood and corrupt the internal +parts. The winter is also, in part, its cause; since it checks the natural +warmth, causing a still greater corruption of the blood. There rise also +from the earth, when first cleared up, certain vapors which infect the air: +this has been observed in the case of those who have lived at other +settlements; after the first year when the sun had been let in upon what +was not before cleared up, as well in our abode as in other places, the air +was much better, and the diseases not so violent as before. But the country +is fine and pleasant, and brings to maturity all kinds of grains and feeds, +there being found all the various kinds of trees, which we have here in our +forests, and many fruits, although they are naturally wild; as, nut-trees, +cherry-trees, plum-trees, vines, raspberries, strawberries, currants, both +green and red, and several other small fruits, which are very good. There +are also several kinds of excellent plants and roots. Fishing is abundant +in the rivers; and game without limit on the numerous meadows bordering +them. From the month of April to the 15th of December, the air is so pure +and healthy that one does not experience the slightest indisposition. But +January, February, and March are dangerous, on account of the sicknesses +prevailing at this time, rather than in summer, for the reasons before +given; for, as to treatment, all of my company were well clothed, provided +with good beds, and well warmed and fed, that is, with the salt meats we +had, which, in my opinion, injured them greatly, as I have already stated. +As far as I have been able to see, the sickness attacks one who is delicate +in his living and takes particular care of himself as readily as one whose +condition is as wretched as possible. We supposed at first that the +workmen only would be attacked with this disease; but this we found was not +the case. Those sailing to the East Indies and various other regions, as +Germany and England, are attacked with it as well as in New France. Some +time ago, the Flemish, being attacked with this malady in their voyages to +the Indies, found a very strange remedy, which might be of service to us; +but we have never ascertained the character of it. Yet I am confident that, +with good bread and fresh meat, a person would not be liable to it. + +On the 8th of April, the snow had all melted; and yet the air was still +very cold until April, [324] when the trees begin to leaf out. + +Some of those sick with the scurvy were cured when Spring came, which is +the season for recovery. I had a savage of the country wintering with me, +who was attacked with this disease from having changed his diet to salt +meat; and he died from its effects, which clearly shows that salt food is +not nourishing, but quite the contrary in this disease. + +On the 5th of June, a shallop arrived at our settlement with Sieur des +Marais, a son-in-law of Pont Gravé, bringing us the tidings that his +father-in-law had arrived at Tadoussac on the 28th of May. This +intelligence gave me much satisfaction, as we entertained hopes of +assistance from him. Only eight out of the twenty-eight at first forming +our company were remaining, and half of these were ailing. + +On the 7th of June, I set out from Quebec for Tadoussac on some matters of +business, and asked Sieur des Marais to stay in my place until my return, +which he did. + +Immediately upon my arrival, Pont Gravé and I had a conference in regard to +some explorations which I was to make in the interior, where the savages +had promised to guide us. We determined that I should go in a Shallop with +twenty men, and that Pont Gravé should stay at Tadoussac to arrange the +affairs of our settlement; and this determination was carried out, he +spending the winter there. This arrangement was especially desirable, since +I was to return to France, according to the orders sent out by Sieur de +Monts, in order to inform him of what I had done and the explorations I had +made in the country. + +After this decision, I, set out at once from Tadoussac, and returned to +Quebec, where I had a shallop fitted out with all that was necessary for +making explorations in the country of the Iroquois, where I was to go with +our allies, the Montagnais. + + +ENDNOTES: + +323. His name was Bonnerme.--_Vide antea_, p. 180. + +324. Read May instead of April. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +DEPARTURE FROM QUEBEC AND VOYAGE TO THE ÎLE ST. ÉLOI.--MEETING THERE WITH +THE ALGONQUINS AND OCHATAIGUINS. + + +With this purpose, I set out on the 18th of the month. Here the river +begins to widen, in some places to the breadth of a league or a league and +a half. The country becomes more and more beautiful. There are hills along +the river in part, and in part it is a level country, with but few rocks. +The river itself is dangerous in many places, in consequence of its banks +and rocks; and it is not safe sailing without keeping the lead in hand. The +river is very abundant in many kinds of fish, not only such as we have +here, but others which we have not. The country is thickly covered with +massive and lofty forests, of the same kind of trees as we have about our +habitation. There are also many vines and nut-trees on the bank of the +river, and many small brooks and streams which are only navigable with +canoes. We passed near Point St. Croix, which many maintain, as I have said +elsewhere, is the place where Jacques Cartier spent the winter. This point +is sandy, extending some distance out into the river, and exposed to the +north-west wind, which beats upon it. There are some meadows, covered +however every full tide, which falls nearly two fathoms and a half. This +passage is very dangerous on account of the large number of rocks +stretching across the river, although there is a good but very winding +channel, where the river runs like a race, rendering it necessary to take +the proper time for passing. This place has deceived many, who thought +they could only pass at high tide from there being no channel: but we have +now found the contrary to be true, for one can go down at low tide; but it +would be difficult to ascend, in consequence of the strong current, unless +there were a good wind. It is consequently necessary to wait until the tide +is a third flood, in order to pass, when the current in the channel is six, +eight, ten, twelve, and fifteen fathoms deep. + +Continuing our course, we reached a very pleasant river, nine leagues +distant from St. Croix and twenty-four from Quebec. This we named +St. Mary's River. [325] The river all the way from St. Croix is very +pleasant. + +Pursuing our route, I met some two or three hundred savages, who were +encamped in huts near a little island called St. Éloi, [326] a league and a +half distant from St. Mary. We made a reconnoissance, and found that they +were tribes of savages, called Ochateguins and Algonquins, [327] on their +way to Quebec, to assist us in exploring the territory of the Iroquois, +with whom they are in deadly hostility, sparing nothing belonging to their +enemies. + +After reconnoitring, I went on shore to see them, and inquired who their +chief was. They told me there were two, one named Yroquet, and the other +Ochasteguin, whom they pointed out to me. I went to their cabin, where they +gave me a cordial reception, as is their custom. + +I proceeded to inform them of the object of my voyage, with which they were +greatly pleased. After some talk, I withdrew. Some time after, they came to +my shallop, and presented me with some peltry, exhibiting many tokens of +pleasure. Then they returned to the shore. + +The next day, the two chiefs came to see me, when they remained some time +without saying a word, meditating and smoking all the while. After due +reflection, they began to harangue in a loud voice all their companions who +were on the bank of the river, with their arms in their hands, and +listening very attentively to what their chiefs said to them, which was as +follows: that nearly ten moons ago, according to their mode of reckoning, +the son of Yroquet had seen me, and that I had given him a good reception, +and declared that Pont Gravé and I desired to assist them against their +enemies, with whom they had for a long time been at warfare, on account of +many cruel acts committed by them against their tribe, under color of +friendship; that, having ever since longed for vengeance, they had +solicited all the savages, whom I saw on the bank of the river, to come and +make an alliance with us, and that their never having seen Christians also +impelled them to come and visit us; that I should do with them and their +companions as I wished; that they had no children with them, but men versed +in war and full of courage, acquainted with the country and rivers in the +land of the Iroquois; that now they entreated me to return to our +settlement, that they might see our houses, and that, after three days, we +should all together come back to engage in the war; that, as a token of +firm friendship and joy, I should have muskets and arquebuses fired, at +which they would be greatly pleased. This I did, when they uttered great +cries of astonishment, especially those who had never heard nor seen the +like. + +After hearing them, I replied that, if they desired, I should be very glad +to return to our settlement, to gratify them still more; and that they +might conclude that I had no other purpose than to engage in the war, since +we carried with us nothing but arms, and not merchandise for barter, as +they had been given to understand; and that my only desire was to fulfill +what I had promised them; and that, if I had known of any who had made evil +reports to them, I should regard them as enemies more than they did +themselves. They told me that they believed nothing of them, and that they +never had heard any one speak thus. But the contrary was the case; for +there were some savages who told it to ours. I contented myself with +waiting for an opportunity to show them in fact something more than they +could have expected from me. + + +ENDNOTES: + +325. This river is now called the Sainte Anne. + +326. A small island near Batiscan, not on the charts. + +327. Hurons and Algonquins. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +RETURN TO QUEBEC.--CONTINUATION AFTERWARDS WITH THE SAVAGES TO THE FALL OF +THE RIVER OF THE IROQUOIS. + + +The next day, we set out all together for our settlement, where they +enjoyed themselves some five or six days, which were spent in dances and +festivities, on account of their eagerness for us to engage in the war. + +Pont Gravé came forthwith from Tadoussac with two little barques full of +men, in compliance with a letter, in which I I begged him to come as +speedily as possible. + +The savages seeing him arrive rejoiced more than ever, inasmuch as I told +them that he had given some of his men to assist them, and that perhaps we +should go together. + +On the 28th of the month, [328] we equipped some barques for assisting +these savages. Pont Gravé embarked on one and I on the other, when we all +set out together. The first of June, [329] we arrived at St. Croix, distant +fifteen leagues from Quebec, where Pont Gravé and I concluded that, for +certain reasons, I should go with the savages, and he to our settlement and +to Tadoussac. This resolution being taken, I embarked in my shallop all +that was necessary, together with Des Marais and La Routte, our pilot, and +nine men. + +I set out from St. Croix on the 3d of June [330] with all the savages. We +passed the Trois Rivières, a very beautiful country, covered with a growth +of fine trees. From this place to St. Croix is a distance of fifteen +leagues. At the mouth of the above-named river [331] there are six islands, +three of which are very small, the others some fifteen to sixteen hundred +paces long, very pleasant in appearance. Near Lake St. Peter, [332] some +two leagues up the river, there is a little fall not very difficult to +pass. This place is in latitude 46°, lacking some minutes. The savages of +the country gave us to understand that some days' journey up this river +there is a lake, through which the river flows. The length of the lake is +ten days' journey, when some falls are passed, and afterwards three or four +other lakes of five or six days' journey in length. Having reached the end +of these, they go four or five leagues by land, and enter still another +lake, where the Sacqué has its principal source. From this lake, the +savages go to Tadoussac. [333] The Trois Rivières extends forty days' +journey of the savages. They say that at the end of this river there is a +people, who are great hunters, without a fixed abode, and who are less than +six days' journey from the North Sea. What little of the country I have +seen is sandy, very high, with hills, covered with large quantities of pine +and fir on the river border; but some quarter of a league inland the woods +are very fine and open, and the country level. Thence we continued our +course to the entrance of Lake St. Peter, where the country is exceedingly +pleasant and level, and crossed the lake, in two, three, and four fathoms +of water, which is some eight leagues long and four wide. On the north +side, we saw a very pleasant river, extending some twenty leagues into the +interior, which I named St. Suzanne; on the south side, there are two, one +called Rivière du Pont, the other, Rivière de Gennes, [334] which are very +pretty, and in a fine and fertile country. The water is almost still in the +lake, which is full of fish. On the north bank, there are seen some slight +elevations at a distance of some twelve or fifteen leagues from the lake. +After crossing the lake, we passed a large number of islands of various +sizes, containing many nut-trees and vines, and fine meadows, with +quantities of game and wild animals, which go over from the main land to +these islands. Fish are here more abundant than in any other part of the +river that we had seen. From these islands, we went to the mouth of the +River of the Iroquois, where we stayed two days, refreshing ourselves with +good venison, birds, and fish, which the savages gave us. Here there sprang +up among them some difference of opinion on the subject of the war, so that +a portion only determined to go with me, while the others returned to their +country with their wives and the merchandise which they had obtained by +barter. + +Setting out from the mouth of this river, which is some four hundred to +five hundred paces broad, and very beautiful, running southward, [335] we +arrived at a place in latitude 45°, and twenty-two or twenty-three leagues +from the Trois Rivières. All this river from its mouth to the first fall, +a distance of fifteen leagues, is very smooth, and bordered with woods, +like all the other places before named, and of the same forts. There are +nine or ten fine islands before reaching the fall of the Iroquois, which +are a league or a league and a half long, and covered with numerous oaks +and nut-trees. The river is nearly half a league wide in places, and very +abundant in fish. We found in no place less than four feet of water. The +approach to the fall is a kind of lake, [336] where the water descends, and +which is some three leagues in circuit. There are here some meadows, but +not inhabited by savages on account of the wars. There is very little water +at the fall, which runs with great rapidity. There are also many rocks and +stones, so that the savages cannot go up by water, although they go down +very easily. All this region is very level, covered with forests, vines, +and nut-trees. No Christians had been in this place before us; and we had +considerable difficulty in ascending the river with oars. + +As soon as we had reached the fall, Des Marais, La Routte, and I, with five +men, went on shore to see whether we could pass this place; but we went +some league and a half without seeing any prospect of being able to do so, +finding only water running with great swiftness, and in all directions many +stones, very dangerous, and with but little water about them. The fall is +perhaps six hundred paces broad. Finding that it was impossible to cut a +way through the woods with the small number of men that I had, I +determined, after consultation with the rest, to change my original +resolution, formed on the assurance of the savages that the roads were +easy, but which we did not find to be the case, as I have stated. We +accordingly returned to our shallop, where I had left some men as guards, +and to indicate to the savages upon their arrival that we had gone to make +explorations along the fall. + +After making what observations I wished in this place, we met, on +returning, some savages, who had come to reconnoitre, as we had done. They +told us that all their companions had arrived at our shallop, where we +found them greatly pleased, and delighted that we had gone in this manner +without a guide, aided only by the reports they had several times made to +us. + +Having returned, and seeing the slight prospect there was of passing the +fall with our shallop, I was much troubled. And it gave me especial +dissatisfaction to go back without seeing a very large lake, filled with +handsome islands, and with large tracts of fine land bordering on the lake, +where their enemies live according to their representations. After duly +thinking over the matter, I determined to go and fulfil my promise, and +carry out my desire. Accordingly, I embarked with the savages in their +canoes, taking with me two men, who went cheerfully. After making known my +plan to Des Marais and others in the shallop, I requested the former to +return to our settlement with the rest of our company, giving them the +assurance that, in a short time, by God's' grace, I would return to them. + +I proceeded forthwith to have a conference with the captains of the +savages, and gave them to understand that they had told me the opposite of +what my observations found to be the case at the fall; namely, that it was +impossible to pass it with the shallop, but that this would not prevent me +from assisting them as I had promised. This communication troubled them +greatly; and they desired to change their determination, but I urged them +not to do so, telling them that they ought to carry out their first plan, +and that I, with two others, would go to the war with them in their canoes, +in order to show them that, as for me, I would not break my word given to +them, although alone; but that I was unwilling then to oblige any one of my +companions to embark, and would only take with me those who had the +inclination to go, of whom I had found two. + +They were greatly pleased at what I said to them, and at the determination +which I had taken, promising, as before, to show me fine things. + + +ENDNOTES: + +328. The reader will observe that this must have been the 28th of June, + 1609. + +329. Read 1st of July. + +330. Read 3d of July. + +331. The river is now called St. Maurice; and the town at its mouth, Three + Rivers. Two islands at the mouth of the river divide it into three; + hence, it was originally called Trois Rivières, or Three Rivers. + +332. Laverdière suggests that Champlain entered this lake, now for the + first time called St. Peter, in 1603, on St. Peter's day, the 29th + June, and probably so named it from that circumstance. + +333. From the carrying-place they enter the Lake St. John, and from it + descend by the Saguenay to Tadoussac. In the preceding passage, Sacqué + was plainly intended for Saguenay. + +334. Of the three rivers flowing into Lake St. Peter, none retains the name + given to them by Champlain. His _St. Suzanne_ is the river du Loup; + his _Rivière du Pont_ is the river St. François; and his _De Gennes_ + is now represented by the Yamaska. Compare Champlain's map of 1612 + with Laurie's Chart of the river St. Lawrence. + +335. This is an error: the River of the Iroquois, now commonly known as the + Richelieu, runs towards the north. + +336. The Chambly Basin. On Charlevoix's Carte de la Rivière Richelieu, it + is called Bassin de St. Louis. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +DEPARTURE FROM THE FALL OF THE IROQUOIS RIVER.--DESCRIPTION OF A LARGE +LAKE.--ENCOUNTER WITH THE ENEMY AT THIS LAKE; THEIR MANNER OF ATTACKING THE +IROQUOIS, AND THEIR BEHAVIOR IN BATTLE. + + +I set out accordingly from the fall of the Iroquois River [337] on the 2d +of July. [338] All the savages set to carrying their canoes, arms, and +baggage overland, some half a league, in order to pass by the violence and +strength of the fall, which was speedily accomplished. Then they put them +all in the water again, two men in each with the baggage; and they caused +one of the men of each canoe to go by land some three leagues, [339] the +extent of the fall, which is not, however, so violent here as at the mouth, +except in some places, where rocks obstruct the river, which is not broader +than three hundred or four hundred paces. After we had passed the fall, +which was attended with difficulty, all the savages, who had gone by land +over a good path and level country, although there are a great many trees, +re-embarked in their canoes. My men went also by land; but I went in a +canoe. The savages made a review of all their followers, finding that there +were twenty-four canoes, with sixty men. After the review was completed, we +continued our course to an island, [340] three leagues long, filled with +the finest pines I had ever seen. Here they went hunting, and captured +some wild animals. Proceeding about three leagues farther on, we made a +halt, in order to rest the coming night. + +They all at once set to work, some to cut wood, and others to obtain the +bark of trees for covering their cabins, for the sake of sheltering +themselves, others to fell large trees for; constructing a barricade on the +river-bank around their cabins, which they do so quickly that in less than +two hours so much is accomplished that five hundred of their enemies would +find it very difficult to dislodge them without killing large numbers. They +make no barricade on the river-bank, where their canoes are drawn up, in +order that they may be able to embark, if occasion requires. After they +were established in their cabins, they despatched three canoes, with nine +good men, according to their custom in all their encampments, to +reconnoitre for a distance of two or three leagues, to see if they can +perceive any thing, after which they return. They rest the entire night, +depending upon the observation of these scouts, which is a very bad custom +among them; for they are sometimes while sleeping surprised by their +enemies, who slaughter them before they have time to get up and prepare for +defence. Noticing this, I remonstrated with them on the mistake they made, +and told them that they ought to keep watch, as they had seen us do every +night, and have men on the lookout, in order to listen and see whether they +perceived any thing, and that they should not live in such a manner like +beasts. They replied that they could not keep watch, and that they worked +enough in the day-time in the chase, since, when engaged in war, they +divide their troops into three parts: namely, a part for hunting scattered +in several places; another to constitute the main body of their army, which +is always under arms; and the third to act as _avant-coureurs_, to look out +along the rivers, and observe whether they can see any mark or signal +showing where their enemies or friends have passed. This they ascertain by +certain marks which the chiefs of different tribes make known to each +other; but, these not continuing always the same, they inform themselves +from time to time of changes, by which means they ascertain whether they +are enemies or friends who have passed. The hunters never hunt in advance +of the main body, or _avant-coureurs_, so as not to excite alarm or produce +disorder, but in the rear and in the direction from which they do not +anticipate their enemy. Thus they advance until they are within two or +three days' march of their enemies, when they proceed by night stealthily +and all in a body, except the _van-couriers_. By day, they withdraw into +the interior of the woods, where they rest, without straying off, neither +making any noise nor any fire, even for the sake of cooking, so as not to +be noticed in case their enemies should by accident pass by. They make no +fire, except in smoking, which amounts to almost nothing. They eat baked +Indian meal, which they soak in water, when it becomes a kind of porridge. +They provide themselves with such meal to meet their wants, when they are +near their enemies, or when retreating after a charge, in which case they +are not inclined to hunt, retreating immediately. + +In all their encampments, they have their Pilotois, or Ostemoy, [341] a +class of persons who play the part of soothsayers, in whom these people +have faith. One of these builds a cabin, surrounds it with small pieces of +wood, and covers it with his robe: after it is built, he places himself +inside, so as not to be seen at all, when he seizes and shakes one of the +posts of his cabin, muttering some words between his teeth, by which he +says he invokes the devil, who appears to him in the form of a stone, and +tells him whether they will meet their enemies and kill many of them. This +Pilotois lies prostrate on the ground, motionless, only speaking with the +devil: on a sudden, he rises to his feet, talking, and tormenting himself +in such a manner that, although naked, he is all of a perspiration. All the +people surround the cabin, seated on their buttocks, like apes. They +frequently told me that the shaking of the cabin, which I saw, proceeded +from the devil, who made it move, and not the man inside, although I could +see the contrary; for, as I have stated above, it was the Pilotois who took +one of the supports of the cabin, and made it move in this manner. They +told me also that I should see fire come out from the top, which I did not +see at all. These rogues counterfeit also their voice, so that it is heavy +and clear, and speak in a language unknown to the other savages. And, when +they represent it as broken, the savages think that the devil is speaking, +and telling them what is to happen in their war, and what they must do. + +But all these scapegraces, who play the soothsayer, out of a hundred words, +do not speak two that are true, and impose upon these poor people. There +are enough like them in the world, who take food from the mouths of the +people by their impostures, as these worthies do. I often remonstrated with +the people, telling them that all they did was sheer nonsense, and that +they ought not to put confidence in them. + +Now, after ascertaining from their soothsayers what is to be their fortune, +the chiefs take sticks a foot long, and as many as there are soldiers. They +take others, somewhat larger, to indicate the chiefs. Then they go into the +wood, and seek out a level place, five or fix feet square, where the chief, +as sergeant-major, puts all the sticks in such order as seems to him best. +Then he calls all his companions, who come all armed; and he indicates to +them the rank and order they are to observe in battle with their enemies. +All the savages watch carefully this proceeding, observing attentively the +outline which their chief has made with the sticks. Then they go away, and +set to placing themselves in such order as the sticks were in, when they +mingle with each other, and return again to their proper order, which +manoeuvre they repeat two or three times, and at all their encampments, +without needing a sergeant to keep them in the proper order, which they are +able to keep accurately without any confusion. This is their rule in war. + +We set out on the next day, continuing our course in the river as far as +the entrance of the lake. There are many pretty islands here, low, and +containing very fine woods and meadows, with abundance of fowl and such +animals of the chase as stags, fallow-deer, fawns, roe-bucks, bears, and +others, which go from the main land to these islands. We captured a large +number of these animals. There are also many beavers, not only in this +river, but also in numerous other little ones that flow into it. These +regions, although they are pleasant, are not inhabited by any savages, on +account of their wars; but they withdraw as far as possible from the rivers +into the interior, in order not to be suddenly surprised. + +The next day we entered the lake, [342] which is of great extent, say +eighty or a hundred leagues long, where I saw four fine islands, ten, +twelve, and fifteen leagues long, which were formerly inhabited by the +savages, like the River of the Iroquois; but they have been abandoned since +the wars of the savages with one another prevail. There are also many +rivers falling into the lake, bordered by many fine trees of the same kinds +as those we have in France, with many vines finer than any I have seen in +any other place; also many chestnut-trees on the border of this lake, which +I had not seen before. There is also a great abundance of fish, of many +varieties: among others, one called by the savages of the country +_Chaousarou_ [343] which varies in length, the largest being, as the people +told me, eight or ten feet long. I saw some five feet long, which were as +large as my thigh; the head being as big as my two fists, with a snout two +feet and a half long, and a double row of very sharp and dangerous teeth. +Its body is, in shape, much like that of a pike; but it is armed with +scales so strong that a poniard could not pierce them. Its color is +silver-gray. The extremity of its snout is like that of a swine. This fish +makes war upon all others in the lakes and rivers. It also possesses +remarkable dexterity, as these people informed me, which is exhibited in +the following manner. When it wants to capture birds, it swims in among the +rushes, or reeds, which are found on the banks of the lake in several +places, where it puts its snout out of water and keeps perfectly still: so +that, when the birds come and light on its snout, supposing it to be only +the stump of a tree, it adroitly closes it, which it had kept ajar, and +pulls the birds by the feet down under water. The savages gave me the head +of one of them, of which they make great account, saying that, when they +have the headache, they bleed themselves with the teeth of this fish on the +spot where they suffer pain, when it suddenly passes away. + +Continuing our course over this lake on the western side, I noticed, while +observing the country, some very high mountains on the eastern side, on the +top of which there was snow. [344] I made inquiry of the savages whether +these localities were inhabited, when they told me that the Iroquois dwelt +there, and that there were beautiful valleys in these places, with plains +productive in grain, such as I had eaten in this country, together with +many kinds of fruit without limit. [345] They said also that the lake +extended near mountains, some twenty-five leagues distant from us, as I +judge. I saw, on the south, other mountains, no less high than the first, +but without any snow. [346] The savages told me that these mountains were +thickly settled, and that it was there we were to find their enemies; but +that it was necessary to pass a fall in order to go there (which I +afterwards saw), when we should enter another lake, nine or ten leagues +long. After reaching the end of the lake, we should have to go, they said, +two leagues by land, and pass through a river flowing into the sea on the +Norumbegue coast, near that of Florida, [347] whither it took them only two +days to go by canoe, as I have since ascertained from some prisoners we +captured, who gave me minute information in regard to all they had personal +knowledge of, through some Algonquin interpreters, who understood the +Iroquois language. + +Now, as we began to approach within two or three days' journey of the abode +of their enemies, we advanced only at night, resting during the day. But +they did not fail to practise constantly their accustomed superstitions, in +order to ascertain what was to be the result of their undertaking; and they +often asked me if I had had a dream, and seen their enemies, to which I +replied in the negative. Yet I did not cease to encourage them, and inspire +in them hope. When night came, we set out on the journey until the next +day, when we withdrew into the interior of the forest, and spent the rest +of the day there. About ten or eleven o'clock, after taking a little walk +about our encampment, I retired. While sleeping, I dreamed that I saw our +enemies, the Iroquois, drowning in the lake near a mountain, within sight. +When I expressed a wish to help them, our allies, the savages, told me we +must let them all die, and that they were of no importance. When I awoke, +they did not fail to ask me, as usual, if I had had a dream. I told them +that I had, in fact, had a dream. This, upon being related, gave them so +much confidence that they did not doubt any longer that good was to happen +to them. + +When it was evening, we embarked in our canoes to continue our course; and, +as we advanced very quietly and without making any noise, we met on the +29th of the month the Iroquois, about ten o'clock at evening, at the +extremity of a cape which extends into the lake on the western bank. They +had come to fight. We both began to utter loud cries, all getting their +arms in readiness. We withdrew out on the water, and the Iroquois went on +shore, where they drew up all their canoes close to each other and began to +fell trees with poor axes, which they acquire in war sometimes, using also +others of stone. Thus they barricaded themselves very well. + +Our forces also passed the entire night, their canoes being drawn up close +to each other, and fastened to poles, so that they might not get separated, +and that they might be all in readiness to fight, if occasion required. We +were out upon the water, within arrow range of their barricades. When they +were armed and in array, they despatched two canoes by themselves to the +enemy to inquire if they wished to fight, to which the latter replied that +they wanted nothing else; but they said that, at present, there was not +much light, and that it would be necessary to wait for daylight, so as to +be able to recognize each other; and that, as soon as the sun rose, they +would offer us battle. This was agreed to by our side. Meanwhile, the +entire night was spent in dancing and singing, on both sides, with endless +insults and other talk; as, how little courage we had, how feeble a +resistance we would make against their arms, and that, when day came, we +should realize it to our ruin. Ours also were not slow in retorting, +telling them they would see such execution of arms as never before, +together with an abundance of such talk as is not unusual in the siege of a +town. After this singing, dancing, and bandying words on both sides to the +fill, when day came, my companions and myself continued under cover, for +fear that the enemy would see us. We arranged our arms in the best manner +possible, being, however, separated, each in one of the canoes of the +savage Montagnais. After arming ourselves with light armor, we each took an +arquebuse, and went on shore. I saw the enemy go out of their barricade, +nearly two hundred in number, stout and rugged in appearance. They came at +a slow pace towards us, with a dignity and assurance which greatly amused +me, having three chiefs at their head. Our men also advanced in the same +order, telling me that those who had three large plumes were the chiefs, +and that they had only these three, and that they could be distinguished by +these plumes, which were much larger than those of their companions, and +that I should do what I could to kill them. I promised to do all in my +power, and said that I was very sorry they could not understand me, so that +I might give order and shape to their mode of attacking their enemies, and +then we should, without doubt, defeat them all; but that this could not now +be obviated, and that I should be very glad to show them my courage and +good-will when we should engage in the fight. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OP THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +DEFEAT OF THE IROQUOIS AT LAKE CHAMPLAIN. + +_A_. The fort of the Iroquois. +_B_. The enemy. +_C_. Canoes of the enemy, made of oak bark, each holding ten, fifteen, or + eighteen men. +_D_. Two chiefs who were killed. +_E_. One of the enemy wounded by a musket-shot of Sieur de Champlain. +_F_. Sieur de Champlain. +_G_. Two musketeers of Sieur de Champlain. +_H_. Montagnais, Ochastaiguins, and Algonquins. +_I_. Canoes of our allied savages made of birch bark. +_K_. The woods. + +NOTES. The letters _A_, _F_, _G_, and _K_, are wanting but the objects to +which they point are easily recognized. The letter _H_ has been placed on +the canoes of the allies instead of the collected body of the allies +immediately above them. + + * * * * * + +As soon as we had landed, they began to run for some two hundred paces +towards their enemies, who stood firmly, not having as yet noticed my +companions, who went into the woods with some savages. Our men began to +call me with loud cries; and, in order to give me a passage-way, they +opened in two parts, and put me at their head, where I marched some twenty +paces in advance of the rest, until I was within about thirty paces of the +enemy, who at once noticed me, and, halting, gazed at me, as I did also at +them. When I saw them making a move to fire at us, I rested my musket +against my cheek, and aimed directly at one of the three chiefs. With the +same shot, two fell to the ground; and one of their men was so wounded that +he died some time after. I had loaded my musket with four balls. When our +side saw this shot so favorable for them, they began to raise such loud +cries that one could not have heard it thunder. Meanwhile, the arrows flew +on both sides. The Iroquois were greatly astonished that two men had been +so quickly killed, although they were equipped with armor woven from cotton +thread, and with wood which was proof against their arrows. This caused +great alarm among them. As I was loading again, one of my companions fired +a shot from the woods, which astonished them anew to such a degree that, +seeing their chiefs dead, they lost courage, and took to flight, abandoning +their camp and fort, and fleeing into the woods, whither I pursued them, +killing still more of them. Our savages also killed several of them, and +took ten or twelve prisoners. The remainder escaped with the wounded. +Fifteen or sixteen were wounded on our side with arrow-shots; but they were +soon healed. + +After gaining the victory, our men amused themselves by taking a great +quantity of Indian corn and some meal from their enemies, also their armor, +which they had left behind that they might run better. After feasting +sumptuously, dancing and singing, we returned three hours after, with the +prisoners. The spot where this attack took place is in latitude 43° and +some minutes, [348] and the lake was called Lake Champlain. [349] + +ENDNOTES: + +337. The River of the Iroquois, so called by Champlain, was long known by + that name, says Charlevoix, because these Indians generally descended + it, in order to make their inroads into the colony. Fort Richelieu, at + the mouth of the river, erected in 1641, was named after the + celebrated Cardinal, the river having already taken his name. This + fort having been demolished, another was built by M. de Sorel, a + French officer in command, which took his name, as likewise did the + river. A fort was built on the same river at the present village of + Chambly in 1664, and called Fort St. Louis. This wooden structure was + replaced by another of stone, erected prior to 1721, to which the name + of Chambly was given, as likewise by some writers to the river. The + river has likewise sometimes been called the St. Johns, but the + prevailing name is the Richelieu. + +338. Read the 12th of July. + +339. This fall is now avoided, and the navigation of the Richelieu secured + by a canal connecting Chambly Basin and St. Johns, a distance of about + ten miles. + +340. It is not entirely certain what island is here referred to. It has + been supposed to be the Island of St. Thérèse. But, taking all of + Champlain's statements into consideration, the logical inference would + be that it is the Isle aux Noix. + +341. "These two words were used in Acadie to indicate the _jongleur_, or + sorcerer. The word _pilotois_, according to P. Biard, Rel. 1611, + p. 17, came from the Basques, the Souriquois using the word _autmoin_, + which Lescarbot writes _aoutmoin_, and Champlain _ostemoy_. + P. Lejeune, in the Relation of 1636, p. 13, informs us that the + Montagnais called their Sorcerers _manitousiouekbi_: and according to + P. Brébeuf. Rel. 1635. p.35. the Hurons designated theirs by the name + _arendiouane_."--_Laverdière, in loco_. + +342. The distances are here overstated by more than threefold, both in + reference to the lake and the islands. This arose, perhaps, from the + slow progress made in the birch canoes with a party of sixty + undisciplined savages, a method of travelling to which Champlain was + unaccustomed; and he may likewise have been misled by the + exaggerations of the Indians, or he may have sailed to comprehend + their representation of distances. + +343. Of the meaning of _chaousarou_, the name given by the Indians to this + fish, we have no knowledge. It is now known as the bony-scaled pike, + or gar pike, _Lepidosteus osseus_. It is referred to by several early + writers after Champlain. + + "I saw," says Sagard, "in the cabin of a Montagnais Indian a certain + fish, which some call Chaousarou, as big as a large pike. It was only + an ordinary sized one, for many larger ones are seen, eight, nine, and + ten feet long, as is said. It had a snout about a foot and a half + long, of about the same shape as that of the snipe, except that the + extremity is blunt and not so pointed, and of a large size in + proportion to the body. It has a double row of teeth, which are very + sharp and dangerous;... and the form of the body is like that of a + pike, but it is armed with very stout and hard scales, of silver gray + color, and difficult to be pierced."--_Sagard's History of Canada_, + Bk. _iii_. p. 765; _Laverdière_. Sagard's work was published in 1636. + He had undoubtedly seen this singular fish; but his description is so + nearly in the words of Champlain as to suggest that he had taken it + from our author. + + Creuxius, in his History of Canada, published at Paris in 1664, + describes this fish nearly in the words of Champlain, with an + engraving sufficiently accurate for identification, but greatly + wanting in scientific exactness. He adds, "It is not described by + ancient authors, probably because it is only found in the Lake of the + Iroquois;" that is, in Lake Champlain. From which it may be inferred + that at that time it had not been discovered in other waters. By the + French, he says, it is called _piscis armatus_. This is in evident + allusion to its bony scales, in which it is protected as in a coat of + mail. + + It is described by Dr. Kay in the Natural History of New York, + Zoölogy, Part I. p 271. On Plate XLIII. Fig. 139, of the same work, + the reader will observe that the head of the fish there represented + strikingly resembles that of the chaousarou of Champlain as depicted + on his map of 1612. The drawing by Champlain is very accurate, and + clearly identifies the Gar Pike. This singular fish has been found in + Lake Champlain, the river St. Lawrence, and in the northern lakes, + likewise in the Mississippi River, where is to be found also a closely + related species commonly called the alligator gar. In the Museum of + the Boston Society of Natural History are several specimens, one of + them from St. John's River, Florida, four feet and nine inches in + length, of which the head is seventeen and a half inches. If the body + of those seen by Champlain was five feet, the head two and a half feet + would be in about the usual proportion. + +344. The Green Mountain range in Vermont, generally not more than twenty or + twenty-five miles distant. Champlain was probably deceived as to the + snow on their summits in July. What he saw was doubtless white + limestone, which might naturally enough be taken for snow in the + absence of any positive knowledge. The names of the summits visible + from the lake are the following, with their respective heights. The + Chin, 4,348 feet; The Nose, 4,044; Camel's Hump, 4,083; Jay's Peak, + 4,018; Killington Peak, 3,924. This region was at an early period + called _Irocosia_. + +345. This is not an inaccurate description of the beautiful as well as rich + and fertile valleys to be found among the hills of Vermont. + +346. On entering the lake, they saw the Adirondack Mountains, which would + appear very nearly in the south. The points visible from the lake were + Mt. Marcy, 5,467 feet high above tide-water; Dix's Peak, 5,200; Nipple + Top, 4,900; Whiteface, 4,900; Raven Hill, 2,100; Bald Peak, 2,065.-- + _Vide Palmer's Lake Champlain_, p. 12. + +347. The river here referred to is the Hudson. By passing from Lake + Champlain through the small stream that connects it with Lake George, + over this latter lake and a short carrying place, the upper waters of + the Hudson are reached. The coast of Norumbegue and that of Florida + were both indefinite regions, not well defined by geographers of that + day. These terms were supplied by Champlain, and not by his + informants. He could not of course tell precisely where this unknown + river reached the sea, but naturally inferred that it was on the + southern limit of Norumbegue, which extended from the Penobscot + towards Florida, which latter at that time was supposed to extend from + the Gulf of Mexico indefinitely to the north. + +348. This battle, or Skirmish, clearly took place at Ticonderoga, or + _Cheonderoga_, as the Indians called it, where a cape juts out into + the lake, as described by Champlain. This is the logical inference to + be drawn from the whole narrative. It is to be observed that the + purpose of the Indians, whom Champlain was accompanying, was to find + their enemies, the Iroquois, and give them battle. The journey, or + warpath, had been clearly marked out and described by the Indians to + Champlain, as may be seen in the text. It led them along the western + shore of the lake to the outlet of Lake George, over the fall in the + little stream connecting the two lakes, through Lake George, and + thence to the mountains beyond, where the Iroquois resided. They found + the Iroquois, however, on the lake; gave them battle on the little + cape alluded to; and after the victory and pursuit for some distance + into the forest, and the gathering up of the spoils, Champlain and his + allies commenced their journey homeward. But Champlain says he saw the + fall in the stream that connects the two lakes. Now this little stream + flows into Lake Champlain at Ticonderoga, and he would naturally have + seen the fall, if the battle took place there, while in pursuit of the + Iroquois into the forest, as described in the text. The fall was in + the line of the retreat of the Iroquois towards their home, and is + only a mile and three-quarters from the cape jutting out into the lake + at Ticonderoga. If the battle had occurred at any point north of + Ticonderoga, he could not have seen the fall, as they retreated + immediately after the battle: if it had taken place south of that + point, it would have been off the war-path which they had determined + to pursue. We must conclude, therefore, that the battle took place at + Ticonderoga, a little north of the ruins of the old Fort Carillon, + directly on the shore of the lake. If the reader will examine the plan + of the battle as given by Champlain's engraving, he will see that it + conforms with great exactness to the known topography of the place. + The Iroquois, who had their choice of positions are on the north, in + the direction of Willow Point, where they can most easily retreat, and + where Champlain and his allies can be more easily hemmed in near the + point of the cape. The Iroquois are on lower ground, and we know that + the surface there shelves to the north. The well-known sandy bottom of + the lake at this place would furnish the means of fastening the + canoes, by forcing poles into it, a little out from the shore during + the night, as they actually did. On Champlain's map of 1632, this + point is referred to as the location of the battle; and in his note on + the map. No. 65, he says this is the place where the Iroquois were + defeated by Champlain. All the facts of the narrative thus point to + Ticonderoga, and render it indisputable that this was the scene of the + first of the many recorded conflicts on this memorable lake. We should + not have entered into this discussion so fully, had not several + writers, not well informed, expressed views wholly inconsistent with + known facts. + +349. The Indian name of Lake Champlain is _Caniaderiguaronte_, the lake + that is the gate of the country.--_Vide Administration of the + Colonies_, by Thomas Pownall. 1768, p. 267. This name was very + significant, since the lake and valley of Champlain was the "gate," or + war-path, by which the hostile tribes of Iroquois approached their + enemies on the north of the St. Lawrence, and _vice-versa_. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +RETURN FROM THE BATTLE, AND WHAT TOOK PLACE ON THE WAY. + + +After going some eight leagues, towards evening they took one of the +prisoners, to whom they made a harangue, enumerating the cruelties which he +and his men had already practised towards them without any mercy, and that, +in like manner, he ought to make up his mind to receive as much. They +commanded him to sing, if he had courage, which he did; but it was a very +sad song. + +Meanwhile, our men kindled a fire; and, when it was well burning, they each +took a brand, and burned this poor creature gradually, so as to make him +suffer greater torment. Sometimes they stopped, and threw water on his +back. Then they tore out his nails, and applied fire to the extremities of +his fingers and private member. Afterwards, they flayed the top of his +head, and had a kind of gum poured all hot upon it; then they pierced his +arms near the wrists, and, drawing up the sinews with sticks, they tore +them out by force; but, seeing that they could not get them, they cut +them. This poor wretch uttered terrible cries, and it excited my pity to +see him treated in this manner, and yet showing such firmness that one +would have said, at times, that he suffered hardly any pain at all. They +urged me strongly to take some fire, and do as they did. I remonstrated +with them, saying that we practised no such cruelties, but killed them at +once; and that, if they wished me to fire a musket-shot at him, I should be +willing to do so. They refused, saying that he would not in that case +suffer any pain. I went away from them, pained to see such cruelties as +they practised upon his body. When they saw that I was displeased, they +called me, and told me to fire a musket-shot at him. This I did without his +feeing it, and thus put an end, by a single shot, to all the torments he +would have suffered, rather than see him tyrannized over. After his death, +they were not yet satisfied, but opened him, and threw his entrails into +the lake. Then they cut off his head, arms, and legs, which they scattered +in different directions; keeping the scalp which they had flayed off, as +they had done in the case of all the rest whom they had killed in the +contest. They were guilty also of another monstrosity in taking his heart, +cutting it into several pieces, and giving it to a brother of his to eat, +as also to others of his companions, who were prisoners: they took it into +their mouths, but would not swallow it. Some Algonquin savages, who were +guarding them, made some of them spit it out, when they threw it into the +water. This is the manner in which these people behave towards those whom +they capture in war, for whom it would be better to die fighting, or to +kill themselves on the spur of the moment, as many do, rather than fall +into the hands of their enemies. After this execution, we set out on our +return with the rest of the prisoners, who kept singing as they went along, +with no better hopes for the future than he had had who was so wretchedly +treated. + +Having arrived at the falls of the Iroquois, the Algonquins returned to +their own country; so also the Ochateguins, [350] with a part of the +prisoners: well satisfied with the results of the war, and that I had +accompanied them so readily. We separated accordingly with loud +protestations of mutual friendship; and they asked me whether I would not +like to go into their country, to assist them with continued fraternal +relations; and I promised that I would do so. + +I returned with the Montagnais. After informing myself from the prisoners +in regard to their country, and of its probable extent, we packed up the +baggage for the return, which was accomplished with such despatch that we +went every day in their canoes twenty-five or thirty leagues, which was +their usual rate of travelling. When we arrived at the mouth of the river +Iroquois, some of the savages dreamed that their enemies were pursuing +them. This dream led them to move their camp forthwith, although the night +was very inclement on account of the wind and rain; and they went and +passed the remainder of the night, from fear of their enemies, amid high +reeds on Lake St. Peter. Two days after, we arrived at our settlement, +where I gave them some bread and peas; also some beads, which they asked me +for, in order to ornament the heads of their enemies, for the purpose of +merry-making upon their return. The next day, I went with them in their +canoes as far as Tadoussac, in order to witness their ceremonies. On +approaching the shore, they each took a stick, to the end of which they +hung the heads of their enemies, who had been killed, together with some +beads, all of them singing. When they were through with this, the women +undressed themselves, so as to be in a state of entire nudity, when they +jumped into the water, and swam to the prows, of the canoes to take the +heads of their enemies, which were on the ends of long poles before their +boats: then they hung them about their necks, as if it had been some costly +chain, singing and dancing meanwhile. Some days after, they presented me +with one of these heads, as if it were something very precious; and also +with a pair of arms taken from their enemies, to keep and show to the +king. This, for the sake of gratifying them, I promised to do. + +After some days, I went to Quebec, whither some Algonquin savages came, +expressing their regret at not being present at the defeat of their +enemies, and presenting me with some furs, in consideration of my having +gone there and assisted their friends. + +Some days after they had set out for their country, distant about a hundred +and twenty leagues from our settlement, I went to Tadoussac to see whether +Pont Gravé had returned from Gaspé, whither he had gone. He did not arrive +until the next day, when he told me that he had decided to return to +France. We concluded to leave an upright man, Captain Pierre Chavin of +Dieppe, to command at Quebec, until Sieur de Monts should arrange matters +there. + + +ENDNOTES: + +350. The Indian allies on this expedition were the Algonquins + (_Algoumequins_), the Hurons (_Ochatequins_), and the Montagnais + (_Montagnets_). The two former, on their way to Quebec, had met + Champlain near the river St. Anne, and joined him and the Montagnais, + who belonged in the neighborhood of Tadoussac, or farther east.--_Vide + antea_, p. 202. They now, at the falls near the Basin of Chambly, + departed to their homes, perhaps on the Ottawa River and the shores of + Lake Huron. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +RETURN TO FRANCE, AND WHAT OCCURRED UP TO THE TIME OP RE-EMBARKATION. + + +After forming this resolution, we went to Quebec to establish him in +authority, and leave him every thing requisite and necessary for the +settlement, together with fifteen men. Every thing being arranged, we set +out on the first day of September [351] for Tadoussac, in order to fit out +our vessel for returning to France. + +We set out accordingly from the latter place on the 5th of the month, and +on the 8th anchored at Isle Percée. On Thursday the 10th, we set out from +there, and on the 18th, the Tuesday following, we arrived at the Grand +Bank. On the 2d of October, we got soundings. On the 8th, we anchored at +Conquet [352] in Lower Brittany. On Saturday the 10th, we set out from +there, arriving at Honfleur on the 13th. + +After disembarking, I did not wait long before taking post to go to Sieur +de Monts, who was then at Fontainebleau, where His Majesty was. Here I +reported to him in detail all that had transpired in regard to the winter +quarters and our new explorations, and my hopes for the future in view of +the promises of the savages called Ochateguins, who are good Iroquois. +[353] The other Iroquois, their enemies, dwell more to the south. The +language of the former does not differ much from that of the people +recently discovered and hitherto unknown to us, which they understand when +spoken. + +I at once waited upon His Majesty, and gave him an account of my voyage, +which afforded him pleasure and satisfaction. I had a girdle made of +porcupine quills, very well worked, after the manner of the country where +it was made, and which His Majesty thought very pretty. I had also two +little birds, of the size of blackbirds and of a carnation color; [354] +also, the head of a fish caught in the great lake of the Iroquois, having a +very long snout and two or three rows of very sharp teeth. A representation +of this fish may be found on the great lake, on my geographical map. [355] + +After I had concluded my interview with His Majesty, Sieur de Monts +determined to go to Rouen to meet his associates, the Sieurs Collier and Le +Gendre, merchants of Rouen, to consider what should be done the coming +year. They resolved to continue the settlement, and finish the explorations +up the great river St. Lawrence, in accordance with the promises of the +Ochateguins, made on condition that we should assist them in their wars, as +I had given them to understand. + +Pont Gravé was appointed to go to Tadoussac, not only for traffic, but to +engage in any thing else that might realize means for defraying the +expenses. + +Sieur Lucas Le Gendre, of Rouen, one of the partners, was ordered to see to +the purchase of merchandise and supplies, the repair of the vessels, +obtaining crews, and other things necessary for the voyage. + +After these matters were arranged, Sieur de Monts returned to Paris, I +accompanying him, where I stayed until the end of February. During this +time, Sieur de Monts endeavored to obtain a new commission for trading in +the newly discovered regions, and where no one had traded before. This he +was unable to accomplish, although his requests and proposals were just and +reasonable. + +But, finding that there was no hope of obtaining this commission, he did +not cease to prosecute his plan, from his desire that every thing might +turn out to the profit and honor of France. + +During this time, Sieur de Monts did not express to me his pleasure in +regard to me personally, until I told him it had been reported to me that +he did not wish to have me winter in Canada, which, however, was not true, +for he referred the whole matter to my pleasure. + +I provided myself with whatever was desirable and necessary for spending +the winter at our settlement in Quebec. For this purpose I set out from +Paris the last day of February following, [356] and proceeded to Honfleur, +where the embarkation was to be made. I went by way of Rouen, where I +stayed two days. Thence I went to Honfleur, where I found Pont Gravé and Le +Gendre, who told me they had embarked what was necessary for the +settlement. I was very glad to find that we were ready to set sail, but +uncertain whether the supplies were good and adequate for our sojourn and +for spending the winter. + +ENDNOTES: + +351. September, 1609. + +352. A small seaport town in the department of Finisterre, twelve miles + west of Brest. + +353. The Ochateguins, called by the French Hurons, were a branch of the + Iroquois. Their real name was Yendots. They were at this time allied + with the Algonquins, in a deadly war with their Iroquois cousins, the + Five Nations.--_Vide Gallatins Synopsis_, Transactions of Am. Antiq. + Society, Cambridge, 1836, Vol. II. p. 69, _et passim_. + +354. The Scarlet tanager, _Pyranga rubra_, of a scarlet color, with black + wings and tail. It ranges from Texas to Lake Huron. + +355. _Vide antea_, p. 216; and map. 1612. + +356. Anno Domini 1610. + + + +SECOND VOYAGE +OF +SIEUR. DE CHAMPLAIN +TO NEW FRANCE, IN THE YEAR 1610. + + + +CHAPTER I. + +DEPARTURE FROM FRANCE TO RETURN TO NEW FRANCE, AND OCCURRENCES UNTIL OUR +ARRIVAL AT THE SETTLEMENT. + + +The weather having become favorable, I embarked at Honfleur with a number +of artisans on the 7th of the month of March. [357] But, encountering bad +weather in the Channel, we were obliged to put in on the English coast at a +place called Porlan, [358] in the roadstead of which we stayed some days, +when we weighed anchor for the Isle d'Huy, [359] near the English coast, +since we found the roadstead of Porlan very bad. When near this island, so +dense a fog arose, that we were obliged to put in at the Hougue. [360] + +Ever since the departure from Honfleur, I had been afflicted with a very +severe illness, which took away my hopes of being able to make the voyage; +so that I embarked in a boat to return to Havre in France, to be treated +there, being very ill on board the vessel. My expectation was, on +recovering my health, to embark again in another vessel, which had not yet +left Honfleur, in which Des Marais, son-in-law of Pont Gravé, was to +embark; but I had myself carried, still very ill, to Honfleur, where the +vessel on which I had set out put in on the 15th of March, for some +ballast, which it needed in order to be properly trimmed. Here it remained +until the 8th of April. During this time, I recovered in a great degree; +and, though still feeble and weak, I nevertheless embarked again. + +We set out anew on the 18th of April, arriving at the Grand Bank on the +19th, and fighting the Islands of St. Pierre on the 22nd. [361] When off +Menthane, we met a vessel from St. Malo, on which was a young man, who, +while drinking to the health of Pont Gravé, lost control of himself and was +thrown into the Sea by the motion of the vessel and drowned, it being +impossible to render him assistance on account of the violence of the wind. + +On the 26th of the month, we arrived at Tadoussac, where there were vessels +which had arrived on the 18th, a thing which had not been seen for more +than sixty years, as the old mariners said who sail regularly to this +country. [362] This was owing to the mild winter and the small amount of +ice, which did not prevent the entrance of these vessels. We learned from a +young nobleman, named Sieur du Parc, who had spent the winter at our +settlement, that all his companions were in good health, only a few having +been ill, and they but slightly. He also informed us that there had been +scarcely any winter, and that they had usually had fresh meat the entire +season, and that their hardest task had been to keep up good cheer. + +This winter shows how those undertaking in future such enterprises ought to +proceed, it being very difficult to make a new settlement without labor; +and without encountering adverse fortune the first year, as has been the +case in all our first settlements. But, in fact, by avoiding salt food and +using fresh meat, the health is as good here as in France. + +The savages had been waiting from day to day for us to go to the war with +them. When they learned that Pont Gravé and I had arrived together, they +rejoiced greatly, and came to speak with us. + +I went on shore to assure them that we would go with them, in conformity +with the promises they had made me, namely, that upon our return from the +war they would show me the Trois Rivières, and take me to a sea so large +that the end of it cannot be seen, whence we should return by way of the +Saguenay to Tadoussac. I asked them if they still had this intention, to +which they replied that they had, but that it could not be carried out +before the next year, which pleased me. But I had promised the Algonquins +and Ochateguins that I would assist them also in their wars, they having +promised to show me their country, the great lake, some copper mines, and +other things, which they had indicated to me. I accordingly had two strings +to my bow, so that, in case one should break, the other might hold. + +On the 28th of the month, I set out from Tadoussac for Quebec, where I +found Captain Pierre, [363] who commanded there, and all his companions in +good health. There was also a savage captain with them, named Batiscan, +with some of his companions, who were awaiting us, and who were greatly +pleased at my arrival, singing and dancing the entire evening. I provided a +banquet for them, which gratified them very much. They had a good meal, for +which they were very thankful, and invited me with seven others to an +entertainment of theirs, not a small mark of respect with them. We each +one carried a porringer, according to custom, and brought it home full of +meat, which we gave to whomsoever we pleased. + +Some days after I had set out from Tadoussac, the Montagnais arrived at +Quebec, to the number of sixty able-bodied men, en route for the war. They +tarried here some days, enjoying themselves, and not omitting to ply me +frequently with questions, to assure themselves that I would not fail in my +promises to them. I assured them, and again made promises to them, asking +them if they had found me breaking my word in the past. They were greatly +pleased when I renewed my promises to them. + +They said to me: "Here are numerous Basques and Mistigoches" (this is the +name they give to the Normans and people of St. Malo), "who say they will +go to the war with us. What do you think of it? Do they speak the truth?" +I answered no, and that I knew very well what they really meant; that they +said this only to get possession of their commodities. They replied to me: +"You have spoken the truth. They are women, and want to make war only upon +our beavers." They went on talking still farther in a facetious mood, and +in regard to the manner and order of going to the war. + +They determined to set out, and await me at the Trois Rivières, thirty +leagues above Quebec, where I had promised to join them, together with four +barques loaded with merchandise, in order to traffic in peltries, among +others with the Ochateguins, who were to await me at the mouth of the river +of the Iroquois, as they had promised the year before, and to bring there +as many as four hundred men to go to the war. + + +ENDNOTES: + +357. In the title above, Champlain calls this his SECOND VOYAGE, by which + he means doubtless to say that this is the second voyage which he had + undertaken as lieutenant. The first and second voyages, of 1603 and of + 1604, were not made under his direction. + +358. Portland in Dorsetshire, England. + +359. _Isle d'Huy_. This plainly refers to the Isle of Wight. On Ortelius's + carte of 1603. it is spelled Vigt: and the orthography, obtained + probably through the ear and not the eye, might easily have been + mistaken by Champlain. + +360. _La Hougue_. There are two small islands laid down on the carte of + Ortelius. 1603, under the name _Les Hougueaux_, and a hamlet nearby + called Hougo, which is that, doubtless, to which Chaimplain here + refers. + +361. Comparing this statement with the context, it will be clear that the + passage should read the 8th, and not the 18th of April. The "Islands + of St. Pierre," _Isles S. Pierre_, includes the Island of St. Peter + and the cluster surrounding it. + +362. M. Ferland infers from this statement that the Basques, Normans, and + Bretons had been accustomed for the last sixty years, from the last + voyage of Roberval in 1549, to extend their fishing and fur-trading + voyages as far as Tadoussac.--_Vide Cours d'Hist. du Canada_, as cited + by Laverdière. + +363. Captain Pierre Chavin, of Dieppe. _Vide antea_, p. 227. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +DEPARTURE FROM QUEBEC TO ASSIST OUR ALLIED SAVAGES IN THEIR WAR AGAINST THE +IROQUOIS, THEIR ENEMIES; AND ALL THAT TRANSPIRED UNTIL OUR RETURN TO THE +SETTLEMENT. + + +I set out from Quebec on the 14th of June, to meet the Montagnais, +Algonquins, and Ochateguins, who were to be at the mouth of the river of +the Iroquois. When I was eight leagues from Quebec, I met a canoe, +containing two savages, one an Algonquin, and the other a Montagnais, who +entreated me to advance as rapidly as possible, saying that the Algonquins +and Ochateguins would in two days be at the rendezvous, to the number of +two hundred, with two hundred others to come a little later, together with +Yroquet, one of their chiefs. They asked me if I was satisfied with the +coming of these savages. I told them I could not be displeased at it, since +they had kept their word. They came on board my barque, where I gave them a +good entertainment. Shortly after conferring with them about many matters +concerning their wars, the Algonquin savage, one of their chiefs, drew from +a sack a piece of copper a foot long, which he gave me. This was very +handsome and quite pure. He gave me to understand that there were large +quantities where he had taken this, which was on the bank of a river, near +a great lake. He said that they gathered it in lumps, and, having melted +it, spread it in sheets, smoothing it with stones. I was very glad of this +present, although of small value. [364] + +Arriving at Trois Rivières, I found all the Montagnais awaiting me, and the +four barques as I stated above, which had gone to trade with them. + +The savages were delighted to see me, and I went on shore to speak with +them. They entreated me, together with my companions, to embark on their +canoes and no others, when we went to the war, saying that they were our +old friends. This I promised them, telling them that I desired to set out +at once, since the wind was favorable; and that my barque was not so swift +as their canoes, for which reason I desired to go on in advance. They +earnestly entreated me to wait until the morning of the next day, when we +would all go together, adding that they would not go faster than I should. +Finally, to satisfy them, I promised to do this, at which they were greatly +pleased. + +On the following day, we all set out together, and continued our route +until the morning of the next day, the 19th of the month, when we arrived +at an island [365] off the river of the Iroquois, and waited for the +Algonquins, who were to be there the same day. While the Montagnais were +felling trees to clear a place for dancing, and for arranging themselves +for the arrival of the Algonquins, an Algonquin canoe was suddenly seen +coming in haste, to bring word that the Algonquins had fallen in with a +hundred Iroquois, who were strongly barricaded, and that it would be +difficult to conquer them, unless they should come speedily, together with +the Matigoches, as they call us. + +The alarm at once sounded among them, and each one got into his canoe with +his arms. They were quickly in readiness, but with confusion; for they were +so precipitous that, instead of making haste, they hindered one another. +They came to our barque and the others, begging me, together with my +companions, to go with them in their canoes, and they were so urgent that I +embarked with four others. I requested our pilot, La Routte, to stay in the +barque, and send me some four or five more of my companions, if the other +barques would send some shallops with men to aid us; for none of the +barques were inclined to go with the savages, except Captain Thibaut, who, +having a barque there, went with me. The savages cried out to those who +remained, saying that they were woman-hearted, and that all they could do +was to make war upon their peltry. + +Meanwhile, after going some half a league, all the savages crossing the +river landed, and, leaving their canoes, took their bucklers, bows, arrows, +clubs, and swords, which they attach to the end of large sticks, and +proceeded to make their way in the woods, so fast that we soon lost sight +of them, they leaving us, five in number, without guides. This displeased +us; but, keeping their tracks constantly in sight, we followed them, +although we were often deceived. We went through dense woods, and over +swamps and marshes, with the water always up to our knees, greatly +encumbered by a pike-man's corselet, with which each one was armed. We were +also tormented in a grievous and unheard-of manner by quantities of +mosquitoes, which were so thick that they scarcely permitted us to draw +breath. After going about half a league under these circumstances, and no +longer knowing where we were, we perceived two savages passing through the +woods, to whom we called and told them to stay with us, and guide us to the +whereabouts of the Iroquois, otherwise we could not go there, and should +get lost in the woods. They stayed to guide us. After proceeding a short +distance, we saw a savage coming in haste to us, to induce us to advance as +rapidly as possible, giving me to understand that the Algonquins and +Montagnais had tried to force the barricade of the Iroquois but had been +repulsed, that some of the best men of the Montagnais had been killed in +the attempt, and several wounded, and that they had retired to wait for us, +in whom was their only hope. We had not gone an eighth of a league with +this savage, who was an Algonquin captain, before we heard the yells and +cries on both sides, as they jeered at each other, and were skirmishing +slightly while awaiting us. As soon as the savages perceived us, they began +to shout, so that one could not have heard it thunder. I gave orders to my +companions to follow me steadily, and not to leave me on any account. I +approached the barricade of the enemy, in order to reconnoitre it. It was +constructed of large trees placed one upon an other, and of a circular +shape, the usual form of their fortifications. All the Montagnais and +Algonquins approached likewise the barricade. Then we commenced firing +numerous musket-shots through the brush-wood, since we could not see them, +as they could us. I was wounded while firing my first shot at the side of +their barricade by an arrow, which pierced the end of my ear and entered my +neck. I seized the arrow, and tore it from my neck. The end of it was armed +with a very sharp stone. One of my companions also was wounded at the same +time in the arm by an arrow, which I tore out for him. Yet my wound did +not prevent me from doing my duty: our savages also, on their part, as well +as the enemy, did their duty, so that you could see the arrows fly on all +sides as thick as hail. The Iroquois were astonished at the noise of our +muskets, and especially that the balls penetrated better than their +arrows. They were so frightened at the effect produced that, seeing +several, of their companions fall wounded and dead, they threw themselves +on the ground whenever they heard a discharge, supposing that the shots +were sure. We scarcely ever missed firing two or three balls at one shot, +resting our muskets most of the time on the side of their barricade. But, +seeing that our ammunition began to fail, I said to all the savages that it +was necessary to break down their barricades and capture them by storm; and +that, in order to accomplish this, they must take their shields, cover +themselves with them, and thus approach so near as to be able to fasten +stout ropes to the posts that supported the barricades, and pull them down +by main strength, in that way making an opening large enough to permit them +to enter the fort. I told them that we would meanwhile, by our +musketry-fire, keep off the enemy, as they endeavored to prevent them from +accomplishing this; also that a number of them should get behind some large +trees, which were near the barricade, in order to throw them down upon the +enemy, and that others should protect these with their shields, in order to +keep the enemy from injuring them. All this they did very promptly. And, as +they were about finishing the work, the barques, distant a league and a +half, hearing the reports of our muskets, knew that we were engaged in +conflict; and a young man from St. Malo, full of courage, Des Prairies by +name, who like the rest had come with his barque to engage in peltry +traffic, said to his companions that it was a great shame to let me fight +in this way with the savages without coming to my assistance; that for his +part he had too high a sense of honor to permit him to do so, and that he +did not wish to expose himself to this reproach; Accordingly, he determined +to come to me in a shallop with some of his companions, together with some +of mine whom he took with him. Immediately upon his arrival, he went +towards the fort of the Iroquois, situated on the bank of the river. Here +he landed, and came to find me. Upon seeing him, I ordered our savages who +were breaking down the fortress to stop, so that the new-comers might have +their share of the sport. I requested Sieur des Prairies and his companions +to fire some salvos of musketry, before our savages should carry by storm +the enemy, as they had decided to do. This they did, each one firing +several shots, in which all did their duty well. After they had fired +enough, I addressed myself to our savages, urging them to finish the +work. Straightway, they approached the barricade, as they had previously +done, while we on the flank were to fire at those who should endeavor to +keep them from breaking it down. They behaved so well and bravely that, +with the help of our muskets, they made an opening, which, however, was +difficult to go through, as there was still left a portion as high as a +man, there being also branches of trees there which had been beaten down, +forming a serious obstacle. But, when I saw that the entrance was quite +practicable, I gave orders not to fire any more, which they obeyed. At the +same instant, some twenty or thirty, both of savages and of our own men, +entered, sword in hand, without finding much resistance. Immediately, all +who were unharmed took to flight. But they did not proceed far; for they +were brought down by those around the barricade, and those who escaped were +drowned in the river. We captured some fifteen prisoners, the rest being +killed by musket-shots, arrows, and the sword. When the fight was over, +there came another shallop, containing some of my companions. This although +behind time, was yet in season for the booty, which, however, was not of +much account. There were only robes of beaver-skin, and dead bodies, +covered with blood, which the savages would not take the trouble to +plunder, laughing at those in the last shallop, who did so; for the others +did not engage in such low business. This, then, is the victory obtained by +God's grace, for gaining which they gave us much praise. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +FORT DES IROQUOIS. + +_A_. The fort of the Iroquois. +_B_. The Iroquois throwing themselves into the river to escape the pursuit + of the Montagnais and Algonquins who followed for the purpose of + killing them. +_D_. Sieur de Champlain and five of his men. +_E_. The savages friendly to us. +_F_. Sieur des Prairies of St. Malo with his comrades. +_G_. Shallop of Sieur des Prairies. +_H_. Great trees cut down for the purpose of destroying the fort of the + Iroquois. + + * * * * * + +The savages scalped the dead, and took the heads as a trophy of victory, +according to their custom. They returned with fifty wounded Montagnais and +Algonquins and three dead, singing and leading their prisoners with them. +They attached to sticks in the prows of their canoes the heads and a dead +body cut into quarters, to eat in revenge, as they said. In this way, they +went to our barques off the River of the Iroquois. + +My companions and I embarked in a shallop, where I had my wound dressed by +the surgeon, De Boyer, of Rouen, who likewise had come here for the purpose +of traffic. The savages spent all this day in dancing and singing. + +The next day, Sieur de Pont Gravé arrived with another shallop, loaded with +merchandise. Moreover, there was also a barque containing Captain Pierre, +which he had left behind, it being able to come only with difficulty, as it +was rather heavy and a poor sailer. + +The same day there was some trading in peltry, but the other barques +carried off the better part of the booty. It was doing them a great favor +to search out a strange people for them, that they might afterwards carry +off the profit without any risk or danger. + +That day, I asked the savages for an Iroquois prisoner which they had, and +they gave him to me. What I did for him was not a little; for I saved him +from many tortures which he must have suffered in company with his +fellow-prisoners, whole nails they tore out, also cutting off their +fingers, and burning them in several places. They put to death on the same +day two or three, and, in order to increase their torture, treated them in +the following manner. + +They took the prisoners to the border of the water, and fastened them +perfectly upright to a stake. Then each came with a torch of birch bark, +and burned them, now in this place, now in that. The poor wretches, feeling +the fire, raised so loud a cry that it was something frightful to hear; and +frightful indeed are the cruelties which these barbarians practise towards +each other. After making them suffer greatly in this manner and burning +them with the above-mentioned bark, taking some water, they threw it on +their bodies to increase their suffering. Then they applied the fire anew, +so that the skin fell from their bodies, they continuing to utter loud +cries and exclamations, and dancing until the poor wretches fell dead on +the spot. + +As soon as a body fell to the ground dead, they struck it violent blows +with sticks, when they cut off the arms, legs, and other parts; and he was +not regarded by them as manly, who did not cut off a piece of the flesh, +and give it to the dogs. Such are the courtesies prisoners receive. But +still they endure all the tortures inflicted upon them with such constancy +that the spectator is astonished. + +As to the other prisoners, which remained in possession of the Algonquins +and Montagnais, it was left to their wives and daughters to put them to +death with their own hands; and, in such a matter, they do not show +themselves less inhuman than the men, but even surpass them by far in +cruelty; for they devise by their cunning more cruel punishments, in which +they take pleasure, putting an end to their lives by the most extreme +pains. + +The next day there arrived the Captain Yroquet, also another Ochateguin, +with some eighty men, who regretted greatly not having been present at the +defeat. Among all these tribes there were present nearly two hundred men, +who had never before seen Christians, for whom they conceived a great +admiration. + +We were some three days together on an island off the river of the +Iroquois, when each tribe returned to its own country. + +I had a young lad, who had already spent two winters at Quebec, and who was +desirous of going with the Algonquins to learn their language. Pont Gravé +and I concluded that, if he entertained this desire, it would be better to +send him to this place than elsewhere, that he might ascertain the nature +of their country, see the great lake, observe the rivers and tribes there, +and also explore the mines and objects of special interest in the +localities occupied by these tribes, in order that he might inform us upon +his return, of the facts of the case. We asked him if it was his desire to +go, for I did not wish to force him. But he answered the question at once +by consenting to the journey with great pleasure. + +Going to Captain Yroquet, who was strongly attached to me, I asked him if +he would like to take this young boy to his country to spend the winter +with him, and bring him back in the spring. He promised to do so, and treat +him as his own son, saying that he was greatly pleased with the idea. He +communicated the plan to all the Algonquins, who were not greatly pleased +with it, from fear that some accident might happen to the boy, which would +cause us to make war upon them. This hesitation cooled the desire of +Yroquet, who came and told me that all his companions failed to find the +plan a good one. Meanwhile, all the barques had left, excepting that of +Pont Gravé, who, having some pressing business on hand, as he told me, went +away too. But I stayed with my barque to see how the matter of the journey +of this boy, which I was desirous should take place, would result. I +accordingly went on shore, and asked to speak with the captains, who came +to me, and we sat down for a conference, together with many other savages +of age and distinction in their troops. Then I asked them why Captain +Yroquet, whom I regarded as my friend, had refused to take my boy with +him. I said that it was not acting like a brother or friend to refuse me +what he had promised, and what could result in nothing but good to them; +taking the boy would be a means of increasing still more our friendship +with them and forming one with their neighbors; that their scruples at +doing so only gave me an unfavorable opinion of them; and that if they +would not take the boy, as Captain Yroquet had promised, I would never have +any friendship with them, for they were not children to break their +promises in this manner. They then told me that they were satisfied with +the arrangement, only they feared that, from change of diet to something +worse than he had been accustomed to, some harm might happen to the boy, +which would provoke my displeasure. This they said was the only cause of +their refusal. + +I replied that the boy would be able to adapt himself without difficulty to +their manner of living and usual food, and that, if through sickness or the +fortunes of war any harm should befall him, this would not interrupt my +friendly feelings towards them, and that we were all exposed to accidents, +which we must submit to with patience. But I said that if they treated him +badly, and if any misfortune happened to him through their fault, I should +in truth be displeased, which, however, I did not expect from them, but +quite the contrary. + +They said to me: "Since then, this is your desire, we will take him, and +treat him like ourselves. But you shall also take a young man in his place, +to go to France. We shall be greatly pleased to hear him report the fine +things he shall have seen." I accepted with pleasure the proposition, and +took the young man. He belonged to the tribe of the Ochateguins, and was +also glad to go with me. This presented an additional motive for treating +my boy still better than they might otherwise have done. I fitted him out +with what he needed, and we made a mutual promise to meet at the end of +June. + +We parted with many promises of friendship. Then they went away towards the +great fall of the River of Canada, while I returned to Quebec. On my way, I +met Pont Gravé on Lake St. Peter, who was waiting for me with a large +patache, which he had fallen in with on this lake, and which had not been +expeditious enough to reach the place where the savages were, on account of +its poor sailing qualities. + +We all returned together to Quebec, when Pont Gravé went to Tadoussac, to +arrange some matters pertaining to our quarters there. But I stayed at +Quebec to see to the reconstruction of some palisades about our abode, +until Pont Gravé should return, when we could confer together as to what +was to be done. + +On the 4th of June, Des Marais arrived at Quebec, greatly to our joy; for +we were afraid that some accident had happened to him at sea. + +Some days after, an Iroquois prisoner, whom I had kept guarded, got away in +consequence of my giving him too much liberty, and made his escape, urged +to do so by fear, notwithstanding the assurances given him by a woman of +his tribe we had at our settlement. + +A few days after, Pont Gravé wrote me that he was thinking of passing the +winter at the settlement, being moved to do so by many considerations. I +replied that, if he expected to fare better than I had done in the past, he +would do well. + +He accordingly hastened to provide himself with the supplies necessary for +the settlement. + +After I had finished the palisade about our habitation, and put every thing +in order, Captain Pierre returned in a barque in which he had gone to +Tadoussac to see his friends. I also went there to ascertain what would +result from the second trading, and to attend to some other special +business which I had there. Upon my arrival, I found there Pont Gravé, who +stated to me in detail his plans, and the reasons inducing him to spend the +winter. I told him frankly what I thought of the matter; namely, that I +believed he would not derive much profit from it, according to the +appearances that were plainly to be seen. + +He determined accordingly to change his plan, and despatched a barque with +orders for Captain Pierre to return from Quebec on account of some business +he had with him; with the intelligence also that some vessels, which had +arrived from Brouage, brought the news that Monsieur de Saint Luc had come +by post from Paris, expelled those of the religion from Brouage, +re-enforced the garrison with soldiers, and then returned to Court; [366] +that the king had been killed, and two or three days after him the Duke of +Sully, together with two other lords, whose names they did not know. [367] + +All these tidings gave great sorrow to the true French in these quarters. +As for myself, it was hard for me to believe it, on account of the +different reports about the matter, and which had not much appearance of +truth. Still, I was greatly troubled at hearing such mournful news. + +Now, after having stayed three or four days longer at Tadoussac, I saw the +loss which many merchants must suffer, who had taken on board a large +quantity of merchandise, and fitted out a great number of vessels, in +expectation of doing a good business in the fur-trade, which was so poor on +account of the great number of vessels, that many will for a long time +remember the loss which they suffered this year. + +Sieur de Pont Gravé and I embarked, each of us in a barque, leaving Captain +Pierre on the vessel. We took Du Parc to Quebec, where we finished what +remained to be done at the settlement. After every thing was in good +condition, we resolved that Du Parc, who had wintered there with Captain +Pierre, should remain again, and that Captain Pierre should return to +France with us, on account of some business that called him there. + +We accordingly left Du Parc in command there, with sixteen men, all of whom +we enjoined to live soberly, and in the fear of God, and in strict +observance of the obedience due to the authority of Du Parc, who was left +as their chief and commander, just as if one of us had remained. This they +all promised to do, and to live in peace with each other. + +As to the gardens, we left them all well supplied with kitchen vegetables +of all sorts, together with fine Indian corn, wheat, rye, and barley, which +had been already planted. There were also vines which I had set out when I +spent the winter there, but these they made no attempt to preserve; for, +upon my return, I found them all in ruins, and I was greatly displeased +that they had given so little attention to the preservation of so fine and +good a plot, from which I had anticipated a favorable result. + +After seeing that every thing was in good order, we set out from Quebec on +the 8th of August for Tadoussac, in order to prepare our vessel, which was +speedily done. + + +ENDNOTES: + +364. This testimony of the Algonquin chief is interesting, and historically + important. We know of no earlier reference to the art of melting and + malleating copper in any of the reports of the navigators to our + northern coast. That the natives possessed this art is placed beyond + question by this passage, as well as by the recent discovery of copper + implements in Wisconsin, bearing the marks of mechanical fusion and + malleation. The specimens of copper in the possession of the natives + on the coast of New England, as referred to by Brereton and Archer, + can well be accounted for without supposing them to be of native + manufacture, though they may have been so. The Basques. Bretons, + English, and Portuguese had been annually on our northern coasts for + fishing and fur-trading for more than a century, and had distributed a + vast quantity of articles for savage ornament and use; and it would, + therefore, be difficult to prove that the copper chains and collars + and other trinkets mentioned by Brereton and Archer were not derived + from this source. But the testimony of the early navigators in the + less frequented region of the St. Lawrence is not open to this + interpretation. When Cartier advanced up the Gulf of Lawrence in 1535, + the savages pointed out the region of the Saguenay, which they + informed him was inhabited, and that from thence came the red copper + which they called _caignetdaze_. + + "Et par les sauuaiges que auions, nous a essé dict que cestoit le + commencement du Saguenay & terre habitable. Et que de la ve noit le + cuyure rouge qu'ilz appellent caignetdaze."--_Brief Récit_, par + Jacques Cartier, 1545. D'Avezac ed., p. 9. _Vide idem_, p. 34. + + When Cartier was at Isle Coudres, say fifty miles below Quebec, on his + return, the Indians from the Saguenay came on board his ship, and made + certain presents to their chief, Donnacona, whom Cartier had captured, + and was taking home with him to France. Among these gifts, they gave + him a great knife of red copper, which came from the Saguenay. The + words of Cartier are as follows:-- + + "Donnerent audict Donnaconan trois pacquetz de peaulx de byeures & + loups marins avec vng grand cousteau de cuyure rouge, qui vient du + Saguenay & autres choses."--_Idem_, p. 44. + + This voyage of Cartier, made in 1535, was the earliest visit by any + navigator on record to this region. It was eighty years before the + Recollects or any other missionaries had approached the Gulf of + St. Lawrence. There was, therefore, no intercourse previous to this + that would be likely to furnish the natives with European utensils of + any kind, particularly knives of _red copper_. It is impossible to + suppose that this knife, seen by Cartier, and declared by the natives + to have come from the Saguenay, a term then covering an indefinite + region stretching we know not how far to the north and west, could be + otherwise than of Indian manufacture. In the text, Champlain + distinctly states on the testimony of an Algonquin chief that it was + the custom of the Indians to melt copper for the purpose of forming it + into sheets, and it is obvious that it would require scarcely greater + ingenuity to fabricate moulds in which to cast the various implements + which they needed in their simple arts. Some of these implements, with + indubitable marks of having been cast in moulds, have been recently + discovered, with a multitude of others, which may or may not have + passed through the same process. The testimony of Champlain in the + text, and the examples of moulded copper found in the lake region, + render the evidence, in our judgment, entirely conclusive that the art + of working copper both by fusion and malleation existed among the + Indians of America at the time of its first occupation by the French. + + During the period of five years, beginning in 1871, an enthusiastic + antiquary, Mr. F. S. Perkins, of Wisconsin, collected, within the + borders of his own State, a hundred and forty-two copper implements, + of a great variety of forms, and designed for numerous uses, as axes, + hatchets, spear-heads, arrowheads, knives, gouges, chisels, adzes, + augers, gads, drills, and other articles of anomalous forms. These are + now deposited in the archives of the Historical Society of + Wisconsin. Other collections are gradually forming. The process is of + necessity slow, as they are not often found in groups, but singly, + here and there, as they are turned up by the plough or spade of other + implements of husbandry. The statement of Champlain in the text, and + the testimony of Carrier three-quarters of a century earlier, to which + we have referred, give a new historical significance to these recent + discoveries, and both together throw a fresh light upon the + prehistoric period. + +365. This was the Island St. Ignace, which lies opposite the mouth of the + river Iroquois or Richelieu. Champlain's description is not + sufficiently definite to enable us to identify the exact location of + this conflict with the savages. It is, however, evident, from several + intimations found in the text, that it was about a league from the + mouth of the Richelieu, and was probably on the bank of that river. + +366. For some account of Saint Luc, see Memoir, Vol. I. By those of the + religion, _ceux de la Religion_, are meant the Huguenots, or + Protestants. + +367. The assassination of Henry IV. occurred on the 14th of May, 1610; but + the rumor of the death of the Duke of Sully was erroneous. Maximelien + de Béthune, the Duke of Sully, died on the 22d of December, 1641, at + the age of eighty-two years. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +RETURN TO FRANCE.--MEETING A WHALE;--THE MODE OF CAPTURING THEM. + + +On the 13th of the month, we set out from Tadoussac, arriving at Île Percée +the next day, where we found a large number of vessels engaged in the +fishery, dry and green. + +On the 18th of the month, we departed from Île Percée, passing in latitude +42°, without sighting the Grand Bank, where the green fishery is carried +on, as it is too narrow at this altitude. + +When we were about half way across, we encountered a whale, which was +asleep. The vessel, passing over him, awakening him betimes, made a great +hole in him near the tail, without damaging our vessel; but he threw out an +abundance of blood. + +It has seemed to me not out of place to give here a brief description of +the mode of catching whales, which many have not witnessed, and suppose +that they are shot, owing to the false assertions about the matter made to +them in their ignorance by impostors, and on account of which such ideas +have often been obstinately maintained in my presence. + +Those, then, most skilful in this fishery are the Basques, who, for the +purpose of engaging in it, take their vessels to a place of security, and +near where they think whales are plenty. Then they equip several shallops +manned by competent men and provided with hawsers, small ropes made of the +best hemp to be found, at least a hundred and fifty fathoms long. They are +also provided with many halberds of the length of a short pike, whose iron +is six inches broad; others are from a foot and a half to two feet long, +and very sharp. Each shallop has a harpooner, the most agile and adroit man +they have, whose pay is next highest to that of the masters, his position +being the most dangerous one. This shallop being outside of the port, the +men look in all quarters for a whale, tacking about in all directions. But, +if they see nothing, they return to the shore, and ascend the highest point +they can find, and from which they can get the most extensive view. Here +they station a man on the look-out. They are aided in catching sight of a +whale both by his size and the water he spouts through his blow-holes, +which is more than a puncheon at a time, and two lances high. From the +amount of this water, they estimate how much oil he will yield. From some +they get as many as one hundred and twenty puncheons, from others less. +Having caught sight of this monstrous fish, they hasten to embark in their +shallops, and by rowing or sailing they advance until they are upon him. + +Seeing him under water, the harpooner goes at once to the prow of the +shallop with his harpoon, an iron two feet long and half a foot wide at the +lower part, and attached to a stick as long as a small pike, in the middle +of which is a hole to which the hawser is made fast. The harpooner, +watching his time, throws his harpoon at the whale, which enters him well +forward. As soon as he finds himself wounded, the whale goes down. And if +by chance turning about, as he does sometimes, his tail strikes the +shallop, it breaks it like glass. This is the only risk they run of being +killed in harpooning. As soon as they have thrown the harpoon into him, +they let the hawser run until the whale reaches the bottom. But sometimes +he does not go straight to the bottom, when he drags the shallop eight or +nine leagues or more, going as swiftly as a horse. Very often they are +obliged to cut their hawser, for fear that the whale will take them +underwater. But, when he goes straight to the bottom, he rests there +awhile, and then returns quietly to the surface, the men taking aboard +again the hawser as he rises. When he comes to the top, two or three +shallops are stationed around with halberds, with which they give him +several blows. Finding himself struck, the whale goes down again, leaving a +trail of blood, and grows weak to such an extent that he has no longer any +strength nor energy, and returning to the surface is finally killed. When +dead, he does not go down again; fastening stout ropes to him, they drag +him ashore to their head-quarters, the place where they try out the fat of +the whale, to obtain his oil. This is the way whales are taken, and not by +cannon-shots, which many suppose, as I have stated above. + +To resume the thread of my narrative: after wounding the whale, as +mentioned, we captured a great many porpoises, which our mate harpooned to +our pleasure and amusement. We also caught a great many fish having a +large ear, with a hook and line, attaching to the hook a little fish +resembling a herring, and letting it trail behind the vessel. The large +ear, thinking it in fact a living fish, comes up to swallow it, thus +finding himself at once caught by the hook, which is concealed in the body +of the little fish. This fish is very good, and has certain tufts which are +very handsome, and resemble those worn on plumes. + +On the 22d of September, we arrived on soundings. Here we saw twenty +vessels some four leagues to the west of us, which, as they appeared from +our vessel, we judged to be Flemish. + +On the 25th of the month, we sighted the Isle de Grenezé, [368] after +experiencing a strong blow, which lasted until noon. + +On the 27th of the month, we arrived at Honfleur. + +ENDNOTES: + +368. Guernsey, which lay directly before them as they advanced up the + English Channel, and was the first large island that met the eye on + their way to Honfleur. + + + + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, VOYAGES OF SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN, VOL. 2 *** + +This file should be named 8vcv210.txt or 8vcv210.zip +Corrected EDITIONS of our eBooks get a new NUMBER, 8vcv211.txt +VERSIONS based on separate sources get new LETTER, 8vcv210a.txt + +Project Gutenberg eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the US +unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we usually do not +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + +We are now trying to release all our eBooks one year in advance +of the official release dates, leaving time for better editing. +Please be encouraged to tell us about any error or corrections, +even years after the official publication date. + +Please note neither this listing nor its contents are final til +midnight of the last day of the month of any such announcement. +The official release date of all Project Gutenberg eBooks is at +Midnight, Central Time, of the last day of the stated month. A +preliminary version may often be posted for suggestion, comment +and editing by those who wish to do so. + +Most people start at our Web sites at: +http://gutenberg.net or +http://promo.net/pg + +These Web sites include award-winning information about Project +Gutenberg, including how to donate, how to help produce our new +eBooks, and how to subscribe to our email newsletter (free!). + + +Those of you who want to download any eBook before announcement +can get to them as follows, and just download by date. This is +also a good way to get them instantly upon announcement, as the +indexes our cataloguers produce obviously take a while after an +announcement goes out in the Project Gutenberg Newsletter. + +http://www.ibiblio.org/gutenberg/etext04 or +ftp://ftp.ibiblio.org/pub/docs/books/gutenberg/etext04 + +Or /etext03, 02, 01, 00, 99, 98, 97, 96, 95, 94, 93, 92, 92, 91 or 90 + +Just search by the first five letters of the filename you want, +as it appears in our Newsletters. + + +Information about Project Gutenberg (one page) + +We produce about two million dollars for each hour we work. The +time it takes us, a rather conservative estimate, is fifty hours +to get any eBook selected, entered, proofread, edited, copyright +searched and analyzed, the copyright letters written, etc. Our +projected audience is one hundred million readers. If the value +per text is nominally estimated at one dollar then we produce $2 +million dollars per hour in 2002 as we release over 100 new text +files per month: 1240 more eBooks in 2001 for a total of 4000+ +We are already on our way to trying for 2000 more eBooks in 2002 +If they reach just 1-2% of the world's population then the total +will reach over half a trillion eBooks given away by year's end. + +The Goal of Project Gutenberg is to Give Away 1 Trillion eBooks! +This is ten thousand titles each to one hundred million readers, +which is only about 4% of the present number of computer users. + +Here is the briefest record of our progress (* means estimated): + +eBooks Year Month + + 1 1971 July + 10 1991 January + 100 1994 January + 1000 1997 August + 1500 1998 October + 2000 1999 December + 2500 2000 December + 3000 2001 November + 4000 2001 October/November + 6000 2002 December* + 9000 2003 November* +10000 2004 January* + + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation has been created +to secure a future for Project Gutenberg into the next millennium. + +We need your donations more than ever! + +As of February, 2002, contributions are being solicited from people +and organizations in: Alabama, Alaska, Arkansas, Connecticut, +Delaware, District of Columbia, Florida, Georgia, Hawaii, Illinois, +Indiana, Iowa, Kansas, Kentucky, Louisiana, Maine, Massachusetts, +Michigan, Mississippi, Missouri, Montana, Nebraska, Nevada, New +Hampshire, New Jersey, New Mexico, New York, North Carolina, Ohio, +Oklahoma, Oregon, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, South Carolina, South +Dakota, Tennessee, Texas, Utah, Vermont, Virginia, Washington, West +Virginia, Wisconsin, and Wyoming. + +We have filed in all 50 states now, but these are the only ones +that have responded. + +As the requirements for other states are met, additions to this list +will be made and fund raising will begin in the additional states. +Please feel free to ask to check the status of your state. + +In answer to various questions we have received on this: + +We are constantly working on finishing the paperwork to legally +request donations in all 50 states. If your state is not listed and +you would like to know if we have added it since the list you have, +just ask. + +While we cannot solicit donations from people in states where we are +not yet registered, we know of no prohibition against accepting +donations from donors in these states who approach us with an offer to +donate. + +International donations are accepted, but we don't know ANYTHING about +how to make them tax-deductible, or even if they CAN be made +deductible, and don't have the staff to handle it even if there are +ways. + +Donations by check or money order may be sent to: + +Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation +PMB 113 +1739 University Ave. +Oxford, MS 38655-4109 + +Contact us if you want to arrange for a wire transfer or payment +method other than by check or money order. + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation has been approved by +the US Internal Revenue Service as a 501(c)(3) organization with EIN +[Employee Identification Number] 64-622154. Donations are +tax-deductible to the maximum extent permitted by law. As fund-raising +requirements for other states are met, additions to this list will be +made and fund-raising will begin in the additional states. + +We need your donations more than ever! + +You can get up to date donation information online at: + +http://www.gutenberg.net/donation.html + + +*** + +If you can't reach Project Gutenberg, +you can always email directly to: + +Michael S. Hart <hart@pobox.com> + +Prof. Hart will answer or forward your message. + +We would prefer to send you information by email. + + +**The Legal Small Print** + + +(Three Pages) + +***START**THE SMALL PRINT!**FOR PUBLIC DOMAIN EBOOKS**START*** +Why is this "Small Print!" statement here? You know: lawyers. +They tell us you might sue us if there is something wrong with +your copy of this eBook, even if you got it for free from +someone other than us, and even if what's wrong is not our +fault. So, among other things, this "Small Print!" statement +disclaims most of our liability to you. It also tells you how +you may distribute copies of this eBook if you want to. + +*BEFORE!* YOU USE OR READ THIS EBOOK +By using or reading any part of this PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm +eBook, you indicate that you understand, agree to and accept +this "Small Print!" statement. If you do not, you can receive +a refund of the money (if any) you paid for this eBook by +sending a request within 30 days of receiving it to the person +you got it from. If you received this eBook on a physical +medium (such as a disk), you must return it with your request. + +ABOUT PROJECT GUTENBERG-TM EBOOKS +This PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm eBook, like most PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm eBooks, +is a "public domain" work distributed by Professor Michael S. Hart +through the Project Gutenberg Association (the "Project"). +Among other things, this means that no one owns a United States copyright +on or for this work, so the Project (and you!) can copy and +distribute it in the United States without permission and +without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, set forth +below, apply if you wish to copy and distribute this eBook +under the "PROJECT GUTENBERG" trademark. + +Please do not use the "PROJECT GUTENBERG" trademark to market +any commercial products without permission. + +To create these eBooks, the Project expends considerable +efforts to identify, transcribe and proofread public domain +works. Despite these efforts, the Project's eBooks and any +medium they may be on may contain "Defects". Among other +things, Defects may take the form of incomplete, inaccurate or +corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other +intellectual property infringement, a defective or damaged +disk or other eBook medium, a computer virus, or computer +codes that damage or cannot be read by your equipment. + +LIMITED WARRANTY; DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES +But for the "Right of Replacement or Refund" described below, +[1] Michael Hart and the Foundation (and any other party you may +receive this eBook from as a PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm eBook) disclaims +all liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including +legal fees, and [2] YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE OR +UNDER STRICT LIABILITY, OR FOR BREACH OF WARRANTY OR CONTRACT, +INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE +OR INCIDENTAL DAMAGES, EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE +POSSIBILITY OF SUCH DAMAGES. + +If you discover a Defect in this eBook within 90 days of +receiving it, you can receive a refund of the money (if any) +you paid for it by sending an explanatory note within that +time to the person you received it from. If you received it +on a physical medium, you must return it with your note, and +such person may choose to alternatively give you a replacement +copy. If you received it electronically, such person may +choose to alternatively give you a second opportunity to +receive it electronically. + +THIS EBOOK IS OTHERWISE PROVIDED TO YOU "AS-IS". NO OTHER +WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, ARE MADE TO YOU AS +TO THE EBOOK OR ANY MEDIUM IT MAY BE ON, INCLUDING BUT NOT +LIMITED TO WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A +PARTICULAR PURPOSE. + +Some states do not allow disclaimers of implied warranties or +the exclusion or limitation of consequential damages, so the +above disclaimers and exclusions may not apply to you, and you +may have other legal rights. + +INDEMNITY +You will indemnify and hold Michael Hart, the Foundation, +and its trustees and agents, and any volunteers associated +with the production and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm +texts harmless, from all liability, cost and expense, including +legal fees, that arise directly or indirectly from any of the +following that you do or cause: [1] distribution of this eBook, +[2] alteration, modification, or addition to the eBook, +or [3] any Defect. + +DISTRIBUTION UNDER "PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm" +You may distribute copies of this eBook electronically, or by +disk, book or any other medium if you either delete this +"Small Print!" and all other references to Project Gutenberg, +or: + +[1] Only give exact copies of it. Among other things, this + requires that you do not remove, alter or modify the + eBook or this "small print!" statement. You may however, + if you wish, distribute this eBook in machine readable + binary, compressed, mark-up, or proprietary form, + including any form resulting from conversion by word + processing or hypertext software, but only so long as + *EITHER*: + + [*] The eBook, when displayed, is clearly readable, and + does *not* contain characters other than those + intended by the author of the work, although tilde + (~), asterisk (*) and underline (_) characters may + be used to convey punctuation intended by the + author, and additional characters may be used to + indicate hypertext links; OR + + [*] The eBook may be readily converted by the reader at + no expense into plain ASCII, EBCDIC or equivalent + form by the program that displays the eBook (as is + the case, for instance, with most word processors); + OR + + [*] You provide, or agree to also provide on request at + no additional cost, fee or expense, a copy of the + eBook in its original plain ASCII form (or in EBCDIC + or other equivalent proprietary form). + +[2] Honor the eBook refund and replacement provisions of this + "Small Print!" statement. + +[3] Pay a trademark license fee to the Foundation of 20% of the + gross profits you derive calculated using the method you + already use to calculate your applicable taxes. If you + don't derive profits, no royalty is due. Royalties are + payable to "Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation" + the 60 days following each date you prepare (or were + legally required to prepare) your annual (or equivalent + periodic) tax return. Please contact us beforehand to + let us know your plans and to work out the details. + +WHAT IF YOU *WANT* TO SEND MONEY EVEN IF YOU DON'T HAVE TO? +Project Gutenberg is dedicated to increasing the number of +public domain and licensed works that can be freely distributed +in machine readable form. + +The Project gratefully accepts contributions of money, time, +public domain materials, or royalty free copyright licenses. +Money should be paid to the: +"Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." + +If you are interested in contributing scanning equipment or +software or other items, please contact Michael Hart at: +hart@pobox.com + +[Portions of this eBook's header and trailer may be reprinted only +when distributed free of all fees. Copyright (C) 2001, 2002 by +Michael S. Hart. Project Gutenberg is a TradeMark and may not be +used in any sales of Project Gutenberg eBooks or other materials be +they hardware or software or any other related product without +express permission.] + +*END THE SMALL PRINT! FOR PUBLIC DOMAIN EBOOKS*Ver.02/11/02*END* + diff --git a/old/8vcv210.zip b/old/8vcv210.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6ffacc1 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/8vcv210.zip diff --git a/old/8vcv210u.txt b/old/8vcv210u.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..95e0032 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/8vcv210u.txt @@ -0,0 +1,9488 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Voyages of Samuel de Champlain, Vol. 2 +by Samuel de Champlain + +Copyright laws are changing all over the world. Be sure to check the +copyright laws for your country before downloading or redistributing +this or any other Project Gutenberg eBook. + +This header should be the first thing seen when viewing this Project +Gutenberg file. Please do not remove it. Do not change or edit the +header without written permission. + +Please read the "legal small print," and other information about the +eBook and Project Gutenberg at the bottom of this file. Included is +important information about your specific rights and restrictions in +how the file may be used. You can also find out about how to make a +donation to Project Gutenberg, and how to get involved. + + +**Welcome To The World of Free Plain Vanilla Electronic Texts** + +**eBooks Readable By Both Humans and By Computers, Since 1971** + +*****These eBooks Were Prepared By Thousands of Volunteers!***** + + +Title: Voyages of Samuel de Champlain, Vol. 2 + +Author: Samuel de Champlain + +Release Date: October, 2004 [EBook #6749] +[Yes, we are more than one year ahead of schedule] +[This file was first posted on January 21, 2003] + +Edition: 10 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, VOYAGES OF SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN, VOL. 2 *** + + + + +Produced by Karl Hagen, Juliet Sutherland, Charles Franks, and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team. Images provided coutesy of www.canadiana.org. + + + +Transcriber's Notes: +The original text of this edition used tall-s. These have been replaced +with ordinary 's'. The original footnotes have been converted to endnotes +and placed at the end of each chapter. The original numbering has been +retained. The number 176-1/2 and presence of two notes numbered [283] are +both original. + +THE +PUBLICATIONS OF THE PRINCE SOCIETY +Established May 25th, 1858. + +CHAMPLAIN'S VOYAGES. + + +VOYAGES +OF +SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN. + +TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH +BY CHARLES POMEROY OTIS, PH.D. + +WITH HISTORICAL ILLUSTRATIONS, +AND A +MEMOIR + +BY THE REV. EDMUND F. SLAFTER, A.M. + +VOL. II. +1604-1610. + +HELIOTYPE COPIES OF TWENTY LOCAL MAPS. + +Editor: +THE REV. EDMUND F. SLAFTER, A.M. + + + + +PREFACE. + +Champlain's edition of 1613 contains, in connection with the preliminary +matter, two pieces of poetry, one signed L'ANGE, Paris, the other MOTIN. +They were contributed doubtless by some friend, intended to be +complimentary to the author, to embellish the volume and to give it a +favorable introduction to the reader. This was in conformity to a +prevailing custom of that period. They contain no intrinsic historical +interest or value whatever, and, if introduced, would not serve their +original purpose, but would rather be an incumbrance, and they have +consequently been omitted in the present work. + +Champlain also included a summary of chapters, identical with the headings +of chapters in this translation, evidently intended to take the place of an +index, which he did not supply. To repeat these headings would be +superfluous, particularly as this work is furnished with a copious index. + +The edition of 1613 was divided into two books. This division has been +omitted here, both as superfluous and confusing. + +The maps referred to on Champlain's title-page may be found in Vol. III. of +this work. In France, the needle deflects to the east; and the dial-plate, +as figured on the larger map, that of 1612, is constructed accordingly. On +it the line marked _nornordest_ represents the true north, while the index +is carried round to the left, and points out the variation of the needle to +the west. The map is oriented by the needle without reference to its +variation, but the true meridian is laid down by a strong line on which the +degrees of latitude are numbered. From this the points of the compass +between any two places may be readily obtained. + +A Note, relating to Hudson's discoveries in 1612, as delineated on +Champlain's small map, introduced by him in the prefatory matter, +apparently after the text had been struck off, will appear in connection +with the map itself, where it more properly belongs. + +E. F. S. + +BOSTON, 11 BEACON STREET, +October 21, 1878. + + + + +TABLE OF CONTENTS + +PREFACE +CHAMPLAIN'S DEDICATION OF HIS WORK TO THE KING +ADDRESS TO THE QUEEN REGENT +EXTRACT FROM THE LICENSE +VOYAGE 1604 TO 1608 +FIRST VOYAGE AS LIEUTENANT, 1608 TO 1610 +SECOND VOYAGE AS LIEUTENANT, 1610 +LOCAL MAPS: + Port de la Hève + Port du Roissignol + Port du Mouton + Port Royal + Port des Mines + Rivière St. Jehan + Isle de Sainte Croix + Habitation de L'Isle Ste. Croix + Quinibequy + Chouacoit R. + Port St. Louis + Malle Barre + L'Abitation du Port Royal + Le Beau Port + Port Fortuné + The Attack at Port Fortuné + Port de Tadoucac + Quebec + Abitation de Quebecq + Defeat of the Iroquois at Lake Champlain +INDEX + + + + +THE VOYAGES +OF SIEUR DE CHAMPLAIN, + +Of Saintonge, Captain in ordinary to the +King in the Marine. + +OR, + +_A MOST FAITHFUL JOURNAL OF OBSERVATIONS +made in the exploration of New France, describing not only the countries, +coasts, rivers, ports, and harbors, with their latitudes and the various +deflections of the Magnetic Needle, but likewise the religious belief of +the inhabitants, their superstitions, mode of life and warfare; furnished +with numerous illustrations_. + +Together with two geographical maps: the first for the purposes of +navigation, adapted to the compass as used by mariners, which deflects to +the north-east; the other in its true meridian, with longitudes and +latitudes, to which is added the Voyage to the Strait north of Labrador, +from the 53d to the 63d degree of latitude, discovered in 1612 by the +English when they were searching for a northerly course to China. + +PARIS. + +JEAN BERJON, + +Rue St. Jean de Beauvais, at the Flying Horse, +and at his store in the Palace, +at the gallery of the Prisoners. + +MDCXIII. + +_WITH AUTHORITY OF THE KING_. + + + + +TO THE KING. + +_Sire, + +Your Majesty has doubtless full knowledge of the discoveries made in your +service in New France, called Canada, through the descriptions, given by +certain Captains and Pilots, of the voyages and discoveries made there +during the past eighty years. These, however, present nothing so honorable +to your Kingdom, or so profitable to the service of your Majesty and your +subjects, as will, I doubt not, the maps of the coasts, harbors, rivers, +and the situation of the places described in this little treatise, which I +make bold to address to your Majesty, and which is entitled a Journal of +Voyages and Discoveries, which I have made in connection with Sieur de +Monts, your Lieutenant in New France. This I do, feeling myself urged by a +just sense of the honor I have received during the last ten years in +commissions, not only, Sire, from your Majesty, but also from the late +king, Henry the Great, of happy memory, who commissioned me to make the +most exact researches and explorations in my power. This I have done, and +added, moreover, the maps contained in this little book, where I have set +forth in particular the dangers to which one would be liable. The subjects +of your Majesty, whom you may be pleased hereafter to employ for the +preservation of what has been discovered, will be able to avoid those +dangers through the knowledge afforded by the maps contained in this +treatise, which will serve as an example in your kingdom for increasing the +glory of your Majesty, the welfare of your subjects, and for the honor of +the very humble service, for which, to the happy prolongation of your days, +is indebted, + +SIRE, + +Your most humble, most obedient, +and most faithful servant and subject, + +CHAMPLAIN_. + + + + +TO THE QUEEN REGENT, + +MOTHER OF THE KING. + +MADAME, + +Of all the most useful and excellent arts, that of navigation has always +seemed to me to occupy the first place. For the more hazardous it is, and +the more numerous the perils and losses by which it is attended, so much +the more is it esteemed and exalted above all others, being wholly unsuited +to the timid and irresolute. By this art we obtain knowledge of different +countries, regions, and realms. By it we attract and bring to our own land +all kinds of riches, by it the idolatry of paganism is overthrown and +Christianity proclaimed throughout all the regions of the earth. This is +the art which from my early age has won my love, and induced me to expose +myself almost all my life to the impetuous waves of the ocean, and led me +to explore the coasts of a part of America, especially of New France, where +I have always desired to see the Lily flourish, and also the only religion, +catholic, apostolic, and Roman. This I trust now to accomplish with the +help of God, assisted by the favor of your Majesty, whom I most humbly +entreat to continue to sustain us, in order that all may succeed to the +honor of God, the welfare of France, and the splendor of your reign, for +the grandeur and prosperity of which I will pray God to attend you always +with a thousand blessings, and will remain, + +MADAME, + Your most humble, most obedient, + and most faithful servant and subject, + CHAMPLAIN. + + + + +EXTRACT FROM THE LICENSE. + +By letters patent of the KING, given at Paris the ninth of January, 1613, +and in the third year of our reign, by the King in his Council, PERREAU, +and sealed with the simple yellow seal, it is permitted to JEAN BERJON, +printer and bookseller in this city of Paris, to print, or have printed by +whomsoever it may seem good to him, a book entitled _The Voyages of Samuel +de Champlain of Saintonge, Captain in ordinary for the King in the Marine, +&c._, for the time and limit of six entire consecutive years, from the day +when this book shall have been printed up to the said time of six years. By +the same letters, in like manner all printers, merchant booksellers, and +any others whatever, are forbidden to print or have printed, to sell or +distribute said book during the aforesaid time, without the special consent +of said BERJON, or of him to whom he shall give permission, on pain of +confiscation of so many of said books as shall be found, and a +discretionary fine, as is more fully set forth in the aforesaid letters. + + + + +VOYAGES +OF +SIEUR DE CHAMPLAIN. + + +VOYAGE IN THE YEAR 1604. + +CHAPTER I. + +THE BENEFITS OF COMMERCE HAVE INDUCED SEVERAL PRINCES TO SEEK AN EASIER +ROUTE FOR TRAFFIC WITH THE PEOPLE OF THE EAST.--SEVERAL UNSUCCESSFUL +VOYAGES.--DETERMINATION OF THE FRENCH FOR THIS PURPOSE.--UNDERTAKING OF +SIEUR DE MONTS: HIS COMMISSION AND ITS REVOCATION.--NEW COMMISSION TO SIEUR +DE MONTS TO ENABLE HIM TO CONTINUE HIS UNDERTAKING. + +The inclinations of men differ according to their varied dispositions; and +each one in his calling has his particular end in view. Some aim at gain, +some at glory, some at the public weal. The greater number are engaged in +trade, and especially that which is transacted on the sea. Hence arise the +principal support of the people, the opulence and honor of states. This is +what raised ancient Rome to the sovereignty and mastery over the entire +world, and the Venetians to a grandeur equal to that of powerful kings. It +has in all times caused maritime towns to abound in riches, among which +Alexandria and Tyre are distinguished, and numerous others, which fill up +the regions of the interior with the objects of beauty and rarity obtained +from foreign nations. For this reason, many princes have striven to find a +northerly route to China, in order to facilitate commerce with the +Orientals, in the belief that this route would be shorter and less +dangerous. + +In the year 1496, the king of England commissioned John Cabot and his son +Sebastian to engage in this search. [1] About the same time, Don Emanuel, +king of Portugal, despatched on the same errand Gaspar Cortereal, who +returned without attaining his object. Resuming his journeys the year +after, he died in the undertaking; as did also his brother Michel, who was +prosecuting it perseveringly. [2] In the years 1534 and 1535, Jacques +Cartier received a like commission from King Francis I., but was arrested +in his course. [3] Six years after, Sieur de Roberval, having renewed it, +sent Jean Alfonse of Saintonge farther northward along the coast of +Labrador; [4] but he returned as wise as the others. In the years 1576, +1577, and 1578, Sir Martin Frobisher, an Englishman, made three voyages +along the northern coasts. Seven years later, Humphrey Gilbert, also an +Englishman, set out with five ships, but suffered shipwreck on Sable +Island, where three of his vessels were lost. In the same and two following +years, John Davis, an Englishman, made three voyages for the same object; +penetrating to the 72d degree, as far as a strait which is called at the +present day by his name. After him, Captain Georges made also a voyage in +1590, but in consequence of the ice was compelled to return without having +made any discovery. [5] The Hollanders, on their part, had no more precise +knowledge in the direction of Nova Zembla. + +So many voyages and discoveries without result, and attended with so much +hardship and expense, have caused us French in late years to attempt a +permanent settlement in those lands which we call New France, [6] in the +hope of thus realizing more easily this object; since the voyage in search +of the desired passage commences on the other side of the ocean, and is +made along the coast of this region. [7] These considerations had induced +the Marquis de la Roche, in 1598, to take a commission from the king for +making a settlement in the above region. With this object, he landed men +and supplies on Sable Island; [8] but, as the conditions which had been +accorded to him by his Majesty were not fulfilled, he was obliged to +abandon his undertaking, and leave his men there. A year after, Captain +Chauvin accepted another commission to transport Settlers to the same +region; [9] but, as this was shortly after revoked, he prosecuted the +matter no farther. + +After the above, [10] notwithstanding all these accidents and +disappointments, Sieur de Monts desired to attempt what had been given up +in despair, and requested a commission for this purpose of his Majesty, +being satisfied that the previous enterprises had failed because the +undertakers of them had not received assistance, who had not succeeded, in +one nor even two years' time, in making the acquaintance of the regions and +people there, nor in finding harbors adapted for a settlement. He proposed +to his Majesty a means for covering these expenses, without drawing any +thing from the royal revenues; viz., by granting to him the monopoly of the +fur-trade in this land. This having been granted to him, he made great and +excessive outlays, and carried out with him a large number of men of +various vocations. Upon his arrival, he caused the necessary number of +habitations for his followers to be constructed. This expenditure he +continued for three consecutive years, after which, in consequence of the +jealousy and annoyance of certain Basque merchants, together with some from +Brittany, the monopoly which had been granted to him was revoked by the +Council to the great injury and loss of Sieur de Monts, who, in consequence +of this revocation, was compelled to abandon his entire undertaking, +sacrificing his labors and the outfit for his settlement. + +But since a report had been made to the king on the fertility of the soil +by him, and by me on the feasibility of discovering the passage to China, +[11] without the inconveniences of the ice of the north or the heats of the +torrid zone, through which our sailors pass twice in going and twice in +returning, with inconceivable hardships and risks, his Majesty directed +Sieur de Monts to make a new outfit, and send men to continue what he had +commenced. This he did. And, in view of the uncertainty of his commission, +[12] he chose a new spot for his settlement, in order to deprive jealous +persons of any such distrust as they had previously conceived. He was also +influenced by the hope of greater advantages in case of settling in the +interior, where the people are civilized, and where it is easier to plant +the Christian faith and establish such order as is necessary for the +protection of a country, than along the sea-shore, where the savages +generally dwell. From this course, he believed the king would derive an +inestimable profit; for it is easy to suppose that Europeans will seek out +this advantage rather than those of a jealous and intractable disposition +to be found on the shores, and the barbarous tribes. [13] + +ENDNOTES: + +1. The first commission was granted by Henry VII. of England to John Cabot + and his three sons, Lewis, Sebastian, and Sancius, March 5, 1496.-- + _Rymer's Foedera_, Vol. XII. p. 595. The first voyage, however, was made + in 1497. The second commission was granted to John Cabot alone, in + 1498.--_Vide Hakluyt_, 1600, London, ed. 1810, Vol. III. pp. 25-31. + +2. Cortereal made two voyages under the patronage of Emmanuel, King of + Portugal, the first in 1500, the second in 1501. In the latter year, he + sailed with two ships from Lisbon, and explored six hundred miles or + more on our northern coast. The vessel in which he sailed was lost; and + he perished, together with fifty natives whom he had captured. The other + vessel returned, and reported the incidents of the expedition. The next + year, Michael Cortereal, the brother of Gaspar, obtained a commission, + and went in search of his brother; but he did not return, and no tidings + were ever heard of him. + +3. Jacques Cartier made three voyages in 1534, 1535, and 1540, + respectively, in which he effected very important discoveries; and + Charlevoix justly remarks that Cartier's Memoirs long served as a guide + to those who after him navigated the gulf and river of St. Lawrence. For + Cartier's commission, see _Hazard's State Papers_, Vol. I. p. 19. + +4. Roberval's voyage was made in 1542, and is reported by Jean Alfonse.-- + _Vide Hakluyt_, 1600, London, ed. 1810, Vol. III. p. 291. On an old map, + drawn about the middle of the sixteenth century, Roberval is represented + in a full-length portrait, clad in mail, with sword and spear, at the + head of a band of armed soldiers, penetrating into the wilds of Canada, + near the head-waters of the Saguenay. The name, "Monsr. de Roberual," is + inserted near his feet,--_Vide Monuments de la Géographie_, XIX., par + M. Jomard, Paris. + +5. For the narrative of the voyages of Frobisher, Gilbert, and Davis, _vide + Hakluyt_, Vol. III. Of the fleet of five vessels commanded by Sir + Humphrey Gilbert, in 1583, the Ralegh put back to England, on account of + sickness on board; the Golden Hinde returned safely to port; the + _Swallow_ was left at Newfoundland, to bring home the sick; the + _Delight_ was lost near Sable Island; and the _Squirrel_ went down on + its way to England, some days after leaving Sable Island. Thus two only + were lost, while a third was left. + + There must have been some error in regard to the voyage of Captain + Georges. There is no printed account of a voyage at that time by any one + of this name. There are two theories on which this statement may be + explained. There may have been a voyage by a Captain Georges, which, for + some unknown reason, was never reported; or, what is more likely, + Champlain may refer to the voyage of Captain George Weymouth, undertaken + in 1602 for the East Ind. Company, which was defeated by the icebergs + which he encountered, and the mutiny of his men. It was not uncommon to + omit part of a name at that period. Of Pont Gravé, the last name is + frequently omitted by Champlain and by Lescarbot. The report of + Weymouth's voyage was not printed till after Champlain wrote; and he + might easily have mistaken the date. + +6. The name of New France, _Novus Francisca_, appears on a map in Ptolemy + published at Basle in 1530. + +7. The controlling object of the numerous voyages to the north-east coast + of America had hitherto been to discover a shorter course to India. In + this respect, as Champlain states above, they had all proved + failures. He here intimates that the settlements of the French on this + coast were intended to facilitate this design. It is obvious that a + colonial establishment would offer great advantages as a base in + prosecuting searches for this desired passage to Cathay. + +8. For some account of this disastrous expedition, see _Memoir_, Vol. I. + +9. _Vide Memoir_, Vol. I. + +10. It will be observed that Champlain does not mention the expedition sent + out by Commander de Chastes, probably because its object was + exploration, and not actual settlement.--_Vide_ an account of De + Chastes in the _Memoir_, Vol. I. + +11. In Champlain's report of the voyage of 1603, after obtaining what + information he could from the natives relating to the St. Lawrence and + the chain of lakes, he says they informed him that the last lake in the + chain was salt, and he therefore believed it to be the South Sea. He + doubtless enlarged verbally before the king upon the feasibility of a + passage to China in this way. + +12. The commission here referred to was doubtless the one renewed to him in + 1608, after he had made his searches on the shores of New England and + Nova Scotia, and after the commission or charter of 1603 had been + revoked. + + Champlain is here stating the advantages of a settlement in the + interior, on the shores of the St. Lawrence, rather than on the + Atlantic coast. + +13. In this chapter, Champlain speaks of events stretching through several + years; but in the next he confines himself to the occurrences of 1603, + when De Monts obtained his charter. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +DESCRIPTION OF SABLE ISLAND; CAPE BRETON; LA HÈVE; PORT AU MOUTON; PORT +CAPE NEGRE; SABLE BAY AND CAPE; CORMORANT ISLAND; CAPE FOURCHU; LONG +ISLAND; BAY OF SAINT MARY; PORT SAINT MARGARET; AND OF ALL NOTEWORTHY +OBJECTS ALONG THIS COAST. + +Sieur de Monts, by virtue of his commission [14] having published in all +the ports and harbors of this kingdom the prohibition against the violation +of the monopoly of the fur-trade accorded him by his Majesty, gathered +together about one hundred and twenty artisans, whom he embarked in two +vessels: one of a hundred and twenty tons, commanded by Sieur de Pont +Gravé; [15] another, of a hundred and fifty tons, in which he embarked +himself, [16] together with several noblemen. + +We set out from Havre de Grâce April 7th, 1604, and Pont Gravé April 10th, +to rendezvous at Canseau, [17] twenty leagues from Cape Breton. [18] But +after we were in mid-ocean, Sieur de Monts changed his plan, and directed +his course towards Port Mouton, it being more southerly and also more +favorable for landing than Canseau. + +On May 1st, we sighted Sable Island, where we ran a risk of being lost in +consequence of the error of our pilots, who were deceived in their +calculation, which they made forty leagues ahead of where we were. + +This island is thirty leagues distant north and South from Cape Breton, and +in length is about fifteen leagues. It contains a small lake. The island is +very sandy, and there are no trees at all of considerable size, only copse +and herbage, which serve as pasturage for the bullocks and cows, which the +Portuguese carried there more than sixty years ago, and which were very +serviceable to the party of the Marquis de la Roche. The latter, during +their sojourn of several years there, captured a large number of very fine +black foxes, [19] whose skins they carefully preserved. There are many +sea-wolves [20] there, with the skins of which they clothed themselves +since they had exhausted their own stock of garments. By order of the +Parliamentary Court of Rouen, a vessel was sent there to recover them. [21] +The directors of the enterprise caught codfish near the island, the +neighborhood of which abounds in shoals. + +On the 8th of the same month, we sighted Cap de la Hève, [22] to the east +of which is a bay, containing several islands covered with fir-trees. On +the main land are oaks, elms, and birches. It joins the coast of La Cadie +at the latitude of 44° 5', and at 16° 15' of the deflection of the magnetic +needle, distant east-north-east eighty-five leagues from Cape Breton, of +which we shall speak hereafter. + +On the 12th of May, we entered another port, [23] five leagues +from Cap de la Hève, where we captured a vessel engaged +in the fur-trade in violation of the king's prohibition. The +master's name was Rossignol, whose name the port retained, +which is in latitude 44° 15'. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +PORT DE LA HÈVE. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. The place where vessels anchor. +_B_. A small river dry at low tide. +_C_. Places where the savages have their cabins.[Note: The letter C is + wanting, but the location of the cabins is obvious.] +_D_. Shoal at the entrance of the harbor. [Note: The letter D is also + wanting, but the figures sufficiently indicate the depth of the + water.] +_E_. A small island covered with wood. [Note: The letter E appears twice by + mistake.] +_F_. Cape de la Hève [Note: The letter F is likewise wanting. It has been + supposed to be represented by one of the E's on the small island, but + Cap de la Hève, to which it refers, was not on this island, but on the + main land. The F should have been, we think, on the west of the + harbor, where the elevation is indicated on the map. _Vide_ note 22.] + + * * * * * + +On the 13th of May, we arrived at a very fine harbor, where there are two +little streams, called Port au Mouton, [24] which is seven leagues distant +from that of Rossignol. The land is very stony, and covered with copse and +heath. There are a great many rabbits, and a quantity of game in +consequence of the ponds there. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +PORT DU ROSSIGNOL. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. A river extending twenty-five leagues inland. +_B_. The place where vessels anchor. +_C_. Place on the main land where the savages have their dwellings. +_D_. Roadstead where vessels anchor while waiting for the tide. +_E_. Place on the island where the savages have their cabins. +_F_. Channel dry at low tide. +_G_. Shore of the main land. The dotted places indicate the shoals. + +NOTE. It would seem as if in the title Rossynol, on the map, the two dots +on the _y_ instead of the _n_ were placed there by mistake. + + * * * * * + +As Soon as we had disembarked, each one commenced making huts after his +fashion, on a point at the entrance of the harbor near two fresh-water +ponds. Sieur de Monts at the Same time despatched a shallop, in which he +sent one of us, with some savages as guides as bearers of letters, along +the coast of La Cadie, to search for Pont Gravé, who had a portion of the +necessary supplies for our winter sojourn. The latter was found at the Bay +of All-Isles, [25] very anxious about us (for he knew nothing of the change +of plan); and the letters were handed to him. As soon as be had read them, +he returned to his ship at Canseau, where he seized some Basque vessels +[26] engaged in the fur-trade, notwithstanding the prohibition of his +Majesty, and sent their masters to Sieur de Monts, who meanwhile charged me +to reconnoitre the coast and the harbors suitable for the secure reception +of our vessel. + +With the purpose of carrying out his wishes, I set out from Port Mouton on +the 19th of May, in a barque of eight tons, accompanied by Sieur Ralleau, +his secretary, and ten men. Advancing along the coast, we entered a harbor +very convenient for vessels, at the end of which is a small river, +extending very far into the main land. This I called the Port of Cape +Negro, [27] from a rock whose distant view resembles a negro, which rises +out of the water near a cape passed by us the same day, four leagues off +and ten from Port Mouton. This cape is very dangerous, on account of the +rocks running out into the sea. The shores which I saw, up to that point, +are very low, and covered with such wood as that seen at the Cap de la +Hève; and the islands are all filled with game. Going farther on, we passed +the night at Sable Bay, [28] where vessels can anchor without any danger. + +The next day we went to Cape Sable, [29] also very dangerous, in +consequence of certain rocks and reefs extending almost a league into the +sea. It is two leagues from Sable Bay, where we had spent the night before. +Thence we went to Cormorant Island, [30] a league distant, so called from +the infinite number of cormorants found there, of whose eggs we collected a +cask full. From this island, we sailed westerly about six leagues, crossing +a bay, which makes up to the north two or three leagues. Then we fell in +with several islands [31] distant two or three leagues from the main land; +and, as well as I could judge, some of them were two leagues in extent, +others three, and others were still smaller. Most of them are very +dangerous for large vessels to approach, on account of the tides and the +rocks on a level with the water. These islands are filled with pines, firs, +birches, and aspens. A little farther out, there are four more. In one, we +saw so great a quantity of birds, called penguins, [32] that we killed them +easily with sticks. On another, we found the shore completely covered with +sea-wolves, [33] of which we captured as many as we wished. At the two +others there is such an abundance of birds of different sorts that one +could not imagine it, if he had not seen them. There are cormorants, three +kinds of duck, geese, _marmettes?_, bustards, sea-parrots, snipe, vultures, +and other birds of prey; gulls, sea-larks of two or three kinds; herons, +large sea-gulls, curlews, sea-magpies, divers, ospreys, _appoils?_, ravens, +cranes, and other sorts which I am not acquainted with, and which also make +their nests here. [34] We named these Sea-Wolf Islands. They are in +latitude 43° 30', distant from four to five leagues from the main land, or +Cape Sable. After spending pleasantly some time there in hunting (and not +without capturing much game), we set out and reached a cape, [35] which we +christened Port Fourchu from its being fork-shaped, distant from five to +six leagues from the Sea-Wolf Islands. This harbor is very convenient for +vessels at its entrance; but its remoter part is entirely dry at low tide, +except the channel of a little stream, completely bordered by meadows, +which make this spot very pleasant. There is good codfishing near the +harbor. Departing from there, we sailed north ten or twelve leagues without +finding any harbor for our vessels, but a number of very fine inlets or +shores, where the soil seems to be well adapted for cultivation. The woods +are exceedingly fine here, but there are few pines and firs. This coast is +clear, without islands, rocks, or shoals; so that, in our judgment, vessels +can securely go there. Being distant quarter of a league from the coast, we +went to an island called Long Island, [36] lying north-north-east and +south-south-west, which makes an opening into the great Baye Françoise, +[37] so named by Sieur de Monts. + +This island is six leagues long, and nearly a league broad in some places, +in others only quarter of a league. It is covered with an abundance of +wood, such as pines and birch. All the coast is bordered by very dangerous +rocks; and there is no place at all favorable for vessels, only little +inlets for shallops at the extremity of the island, and three or four small +rocky islands, where the savages capture many sea-wolves. There are strong +tides, especially at the little passage [38] of the island, which is very +dangerous for vessels running the risk of passing through it. + +From Long Island passage, we sailed north-east two leagues, when we found a +cove [39] where vessels can anchor in safety, and which is quarter of a +league or thereabouts in circuit. The bottom is all mire, and the +surrounding land is bordered by very high rocks. In this place there is a +very good silver mine, according to the report of the miner, Master Simon, +who accompanied me. Some leagues farther on there is a little stream called +river Boulay [40] where the tide rises half a league into the land, at the +mouth of which vessels of a hundred tons can easily ride at anchor. Quarter +of a league from here there is a good harbor for vessels, where we found an +iron mine, which our miner estimated would yield fifty per cent [41] +Advancing three leagues farther on to the northeast [42] we saw another +very good iron mine, near which is a river surrounded by beautiful and +attractive meadows. The neighboring soil is red as blood. Some leagues +farther on there is still another river, [43] dry at low tide, except in +its very small channel, and which extends near to Port Royal. At the +extremity of this bay is a channel, also dry at low tide [44] surrounding +which are a number of pastures and good pieces of land for cultivation, +where there are nevertheless great numbers of fine trees of all the kinds +previously mentioned. The distance from Long Island to the end of this bay +may be some six leagues. The entire coast of the mines is very high, +intersected by capes, which appear round, extending out a short distance. +On the other side of the bay, on the south-east, the land is low and good, +where there is a very good harbor, having a bank at its entrance over which +it is necessary to pass. On this bar there is a fathom and a half of water +at low tide; but after passing it you find three, with good bottom. Between +the two points of the harbor there is a pebbly islet, covered at full +tide. This place extends half a league inland. The tide falls here three +fathoms, and there are many shell-fish, such as muscles, cockles, and +sea-snails. The soil is as good as any that I have seen. I named this +harbor Saint Margaret. [45] This entire south-east coast is much lower than +that of the mines, which is only a league and a half from the coast of +Saint Margaret, being Separated by the breadth of the bay, [46] which is +three leagues at its entrance. I took the altitude at this place, and found +the latitude 45° 30', and a little more,[47] the deflection of the magnetic +needle being 17° 16'. + +After having explored as particularly as I could the coasts, ports, and +harbors, I returned, without advancing any farther, to Long Island passage, +whence I went back outside of all the islands in order to observe whether +there was any danger at all on the water side. But we found none whatever, +except there were some rocks about half a league from Sea-Wolf Islands, +which, however, can be easily avoided, since the sea breaks over them. +Continuing our voyage, we were overtaken by a violent wind, which obliged +us to run our barque ashore, where we were in danger of losing her, which +would have caused us extreme perplexity. The tempest having ceased, we +resumed the sea, and the next day reached Port Mouton, where Sieur de Monts +was awaiting us from day to day, thinking only of our long stay, [48] and +whether some accident had not befallen us. I made a report to him of our +voyage, and where our vessels might go in Safety. Meanwhile, I observed +very particularly that place which is in latitude 44°. + +The next day Sieur de Monts gave orders to weigh anchor and proceed to the +Bay of Saint Mary, [49] a place which we had found to be Suitable for our +vessel to remain in, until we should be able to find one more advantageous. +Coasting along, we passed near Cape Sable and the Sea-Wolf Islands, whither +Sieur de Monts decided to go in a shallop, and see some islands of which we +had made a report to him, as also of the countless number of birds found +there. Accordingly, he set out, accompanied by Sieur de Poutrincourt, and +several other noblemen, with the intention of going to Penguin Island, +where we had previously killed with sticks a large number of these +birds. Being somewhat distant from our ship, it was beyond our power to +reach it, and still less to reach our vessel; for the tide was so strong +that we were compelled to put in at a little island to pass the night, +where there was much game. I killed there some river-birds, which were very +acceptable to us, especially as we had taken only a few biscuit, expecting +to return the same day. The next day we reached Cape Fourchu, distant half +a league from there. Coasting along, we found our vessel in the Bay of +Saint Mary. Our company were very anxious about us for two days, fearing +lest some misfortune had befallen us; but, when they saw us all safe, they +were much rejoiced. + +Two or three days after our arrival, one of our priests, named Mesire Aubry +[50] from Paris, got lost so completely in the woods while going after his +sword, which he had forgotten, that he could not find the vessel. And he +was thus seventeen days without any thing to subsist upon except some sour +and bitter plants like the sorrel, and some small fruit of little substance +large as currants, which creep upon the ground. [51] Being at his wits' +end, without hope of ever seeing us again, weak and feeble, he found +himself on the shore of Baye Françoise, thus named by Sieur de Monts, near +Long Island, [52] where his strength gave out, when one of our shallops out +fishing discovered him. Not being able to shout to them, he made a sign +with a pole, on the end of which he had put his hat, that they should go +and get him. This they did at once, and brought him off. Sieur de Monts had +caused a search to be made not only by his own men, but also by the savages +of those parts, who scoured all the woods, but brought back no intelligence +of him. Believing him to be dead, they all saw him coming back in the +shallop to their great delight. A long time was needed to restore him to +his usual strength. + +ENDNOTES: + +14. _Vide Commission du Roy au Sieur de Monts, pour l'habitation és terres + de la Cadie, Canada, et autres endroits en la Nouvelle-France_, + Histoire de a Nouvelle-France, par Marc Lescarbot, Paris, 1612, Qvat. + Liv. p. 431. This charter may also be found in English in a _Collection + of Voyages and Travels compiled from the Library of the Earl of Oxford, + by Thomas Osborne_, London, 1745, Vol. II. pp. 796-798; also in + _Murdoch's History of Nova Scotia_, Halifax, 1865, Vol. I. pp. 21-24. + +15. The second officer, or pilot, was, according to Lescarbot, Captain + Morel, of Honfleur. + +16. This was under the direction of De Monts himself; and Captain Timothée, + of Havre de Grâce, was pilot, or the second officer. + +17. Lescarbot writes this name Campseau; Champlain's orthography is + Canceau; the English often write Canso, but more correctly Canseau. It + has been derived from _Cansoke_, an Indian word, meaning _facing the + frowning cliffs_. + +18. The Cape and Island of Cape Breton appear to have taken their name from + the fisherman of Brittany, who frequented that region as early as 1504 + --_Vide Champlain's Voyages_, Paris 1632, p. 9. + + Thévet sailed along the coast in 1556, and is quoted by Laverdière, as + follows: "In this land there is a province called Compestre de Berge, + extending towards the south-east: in the eastern part of the same is + the cape or promontory of Lorraine, called so by us; others have given + it the came of the Cape of the Bretons, since the Bretons, the + Bisayans, and Normans repair thither, and coast along on their way to + Newfoundland to fish for codfish." + + An inscription, "_tera que soy descuberta per pertonnes_," on an Old + Portuguese map of 1520, declares it to be a country discovered by the + Bretons. It is undoubtedly the oldest French name on any part of North + America. On Gastaldo's map in Mattiolo's Italian translation of + Ptolemy, 1548, the name of Breton is applied both to Nova Scotia and to + the Island of Cape Breton. + +19. Winthrop says that Mr. John Rose, who was cast away on Sable Island + about 1633, "saw about eight hundred cattle, small and great, all red, + and the largest he ever saw: and many foxes, wherof some perfect + black."--_Whinthrop's Hist. New Eng._, Boston, 1853, Vol. I. p. 193. + + Champlain doubtless obtained his information in regard to the cattle + left upon Sable Island by the Portuguese from the from the report of + Edward Haies on the voyage of Sir Humphrey Gilbert in 1583: + + "Sablon lieth to the seaward of Cape Briton about twenty-five leagues, + whither we were determined to goe vpon intelligence we had of a + Portugal (during our abode in S. Johns) who was himselfe present, when + the Portugals (aboue thirty yeeres past) did put in the same Island + both Neat and Swine to breede, which were since exceedingly multiplied. + This seemed vnto vs very happy tidings, to haue in an Island lying so + neere vnto the maine, which we intended to plant vpon. Such store of + cattell, whereby we might at all times conueniently be relieued of + victuall, and serued of store for breed."--_Edward Haies in Hakluyt's + Voyages_, London, ed. 1810. Vol. III. p. 197. + +20. "Loups marins," seals. + +21. "The forty poor wretches whom he left on Sable Island found on the + seashore some wrecks of vessels, out of which they built barracks to + shield themselves from the severity of the weather. They were the + remains of Spanish vessels, which had sailed to settle Cape Breton. + From these same ships had come some sheep and cattle, which had + multiplied on Sable Island; and this was for some time a resource for + these poor exiles. Fish was their next food; and, when their clothes + were worn out, they made new ones of seal-skin. At last, after a lapse + of seven years, the king, having heard of their adventure, obliged + Chedotel, the pilot, to go for them; but he found only twelve, the rest + having died of their hardships. His majesty desired to see those, who + returned in the same guise as found by Chedotel, covered with + seal-skin, with their hair and beard of a length and disorder that made + them resemble the pretended river-gods, and so disfigured as to inspire + horror. The king gave them fifty crowns apiece, and sent them home + released from all process of law."--_Shea's Charlevoix_, New York, + 1866, Vol. I. p. 244. See also _Sir William Alexander and American + Colonization_, Prince Society, 1873, p. 174; _Murdoch's Nova Scotia_, + Vol. I. p. 11; _Hakluyt_, Vol. II. pp. 679. 697. + +22. This cape still bears the same name, and is the western point of the + bay at the mouth of a river, likewise of the same name, in the county + of Lunenberg, Nova Scotia. It is an abrupt cliff, rising up one hundred + and fifty feet above the level of the sea. It could therefore be seen + at a great distance, and appears to have been the first land sighted by + them on the coast of La Cadie. A little north of Havre de Grâce, in + Normandy, the port from which De Monts and Champlain had sailed, is to + be seen the high, commanding, rocky bluff, known as _Cap de la Hève_. + The place which they first sighted, similar at least in some respects, + they evidently named after this bold and striking headland, which may, + perhaps, have been the last object which they saw on leaving the shores + of France. The word _Hève_ seems to have had a local meaning, as may be + inferred from the following excerpt: "A name, in Lower Normandy, for + cliffs hollowed out below, and where fishermen search for crabs."-- + _Littré_. The harbor delineated on Champlain's local map is now called + Palmerston Bay, and is at the mouth of Petit River. The latitude of + this harbor is about 44° 15'. De Laet's description is fuller than that + of Champlain or Lescarbot.--_Vide Novus Orbis_, 1633, p. 51. + +23. Liverpool, which for a long time bore the name of Port Rossignol; the + lake at the head of the river, about ten miles long and two or three + wide, the largest in Nova Scotia, still bears that appellation. The + latitude is 44° 2' 30". + +24. "Lequel ils appelèrent _Le Port du Mouton_, à l'occasion d'un mouton + qui s'estant nové revint à bord, et fut mangé de bonne guerre."-- + _Histoire de la Nouvelle-France_, par Marc Lescarbot, Paris, 1612, + Qvat. Liv. p. 449. It still bears the name of Port Mouton, and an + island in the bay is called Mouton Island. + +25. _Baye de Toutes-isles_. Lescarbot calls it "La Baye des Iles:" and + Charlevoix, "Baye de toutes les Isles." It was the bay, or rather the + waters, that stretch along the shores of Halifax County, between Owl's + Head and Liscomb River. + +26. The confiscated provisions taken in the vessels of the Basque + fur-traders and in that of Rossignol were, according to Lescarbot, + found very useful. De Monts had given timely notice of his monopoly; + and, whether it had reached them or not, they were doubtless wrong in + law. Although De Monts treated them with gentleness, nevertheless it is + not unlikely that a compromise would have been better policy than an + entire confiscation of their property, as these Basques afterwards, on + their return to France, gave him serious inconvenience. They were + instrumental mainly in wresting from him his charter of La Cadie. + +27. _Le Port du Cap Negré_. This port still bears the name of Negro + Harbor. It is situated at the mouth of the Clyde, the small river + referred to in the text. + +28. Near Cape Sable Island, at what is now known as Barrington Harbor. + +29. This is still called Cape Sable, and is the southern point of Sable + Island, or, more properly, the cluster of rock, and islets that + surround its southern extremity. + +30. _Isle aux Cormorans_. It is difficult to distinguish with certainty the + island here referred to, but it was probably Hope Island, as this lies + directly in their way in crossing the bay, six leagues wide, which is + now known as Townsend Bay. The bird here mentioned was the common + cormorant. _Graculus carbo_, of a glossy greenish-black color, back and + wings bronzy-gray; about three feet in length, and is common on our + northern Atlantic coast: eminently gregarious, particularly in the + breeding season, congregating in vast flocks. At the present time, it + breeds in great numbers in Labrador and Newfoundland, and in the winter + migrates as far south as the Middle States. They feed principally upon + fish, lay commonly two eggs, of a pale greenish color, overlaid with a + white chalky substance.--_Vide Cones's Key to Nor. Am. Birds_. Boston, + 1872. p. 302. + +31. A cluster of islands now known as the Tousquet or Tusket Islands. + Further on, Champlain says they named them _Isles aux loups marins_. + Sea-Wolf Islands. About five leagues south of them is an island now + called Seal Island. The four more which he saw a little further on were + probably in Townsend Bay. + +32. This is the Auk, family _Alcidae_, and must not be confounded with the + penguin of the southern hemisphere, although it is described by the + early navigators of the Northern Atlantic under that appellation. In + Anthony Parkhurst's letter to Hakluyt, 1578, he says: "These birds are + also called Penguins, and cannot flie, there is more meate in one of + these then in a goose: the Frenchmen that fish neere the grand baie, do + bring small store of flesh with them, but victuall themselves alwayes + with these birds."--_Hakluyt_, London, ed. 1810, Vol. III. p. 172. + Edward Haies, in his report of the voyage of Sir Humphrey Gilbert in + 1583, say's: "We had sight of an Island named Penguin, of a foule there + breeding in abundance, almost incredible, which cannot flie, their + wings not able to carry their body, being very large (not much lesse + then a goose), and exceeding fat: which the Frenchmen use to take + without difficulty upon that Island, and to barrell them up with salt." + _Idem_, p. 191. + + The Auk is confined to the northern hemisphere, where it represents the + penguins of the southern. Several species occur in the Northern + Atlantic in almost incredible numbers: they are all marine, feed on + fish and other animal substances exclusively, and lay from one to three + eggs on the bare rocks. Those seen by Champlain and other early + navigators were the Great Auk. _Alca impennis_, now nearly extinct. It + was formerly found on the coast of New England, as is proved not only + by the testimony of the primitive explorers, but by the remains found + in shell-heaps. The latest discovery was of one found dead near + St. Augustine, in Labrador, in 1870. A specimen of the Great Auk is + preserved in the Cambridge Museum.--_Vide Coues's Key to North Am. + Birds_, Boston, 1872. p. 338. + +33. The sea-wolf or _loup marin_ of Champlain is the marine mammiferous + quadruped of the family Phocidae, known as the seal. Sea-wolf was a + name applied to it by the early navigators.--_Vide Purchas's Pilgrims_, + London, 1625. Vol. IV. p. 1385. Those here mentioned were the common + seal, _Phoca vitulina_, which are still found on the coasts of Nova + Scotia, vulgarly known as the harbor seal. They are thinly distributed + as far south as Long Island Sound, but are found in great numbers in + the waters of Labrador and Newfoundland, where they are taken for the + oil obtained from them, and for the skins, which are used for various + purposes in the arts. + +34. The names given to these birds were such, doubtless, as were known to + belong to birds similar in color, size, and figure in Europe. Some of + them were probably misapplied. The name alone is not sufficient for + identification. + +35. This cape, near the entrance to Yarmouth, still bears the same name, + from _fourchu_, forked. On a map of 1755, it is called Forked Cape, and + near it is Fork Ledge and Forked Harbor.--_Memorials of English and + French Commissaries_, London, 1755. + +36. It still retains the name given to it by Champlain. It forms a part of + the western limit of St. Mary's Bay, and a line drawn from it to the + St. Croix, cutting the Grand Manan, would mark the entrance of the Bay + of Fundy. + +37. The Bay of Fundy was thus first named "Baye Françoise" by De Monts, and + continued to be so called, as will appear by reference to the early + maps, as that of De Laet, 1633; Charlevoix, 1744; Rouge, 1778. It first + appears distinctly on the carte of Diego Homem of 1558, but without + name. On Cabot's Mappe-Monde, in "Monuments de la Géographie," we find + _rio fondo_, which may represent the Bay of Fundy, and may have + suggested the name adopted by the English, which it still retains. Sir + William Alexander's map, 1624, has Argal's Bay; Moll's map, 1712, has + Fundi Bay; that of the English and French Commissaries, 1755, has Bay + of Fundy, or Argal. + +38. This strait, known by the name Petit Passage, separates Long Island + from Digby Neck. + +39. A place called Little River, on Digby Neck. + +40. Now known as Sandy Cove. + +41. Lescarbot says of this iron mine, and of the silver mine above, that + they were proved not to be abundant. + +42. This was probably near Rossway. + +43. This was clearly Smith Creek or Smelt River, which rises near Annapolis + Basin, or the Port Royal Basin of the French. + +44. He here doubtless refers to North Creek, at the north-eastern extremity + of St. Mary's Bay. + +45. Now Weymouth Harbor, on the south-eastern shore of St. Mary's Bay, at + the mouth of Sissibou River, and directly opposite Sandy Cove, near the + iron mine mentioned above. + +46. The distance across the bay at this point, as here stated, is nearly + accurate. + +47. This is clearly a mistake; the true latitude at the Petit Passage is + 44° 23'. It may here be remarked that Champlain's latitudes are very + inaccurate, often varying more than half a degree; doubtless owing to + the imperfection of the instruments which were employed in taking them. + +48. They had been occupied in this exploration about three weeks, Lescarbot + says a month, but this is an overstatement. By a careful examination of + the text, it will appear that they departed from Port Mouton on the + 19th of May, and that several days after their return, not less than + nine, they were again in St. Mary's Bay, on the 16th of June. They had + been absent, therefore, about twenty-one days. The latitude of Port + Mouton, stated a little below to be 44°, is in fact 43° 57'. + +49. This bay, still retaining its ancient appellation, was so named by + Champlain on his first visit. "Ceste baye fut nommée la baye Saincte + Marie."--_Champlain's Voyages_, 1632, Quebec ed., Vol. V. p. 716. + +50. Nicholas Aubry, a young Parisian of good family, "vn certain homme + d'Église," as Lescarbot says, probably not long in holy orders, had + undertaken this voyage with De Monts to gratify his desire to see the + New World, though quite against the wishes of his friends, who had sent + in vain to Honfleur to prevent his embarkation. After the search made + by De Monts, with the sounding of trumpets and the discharge of cannon, + they left St. Mary's Bay, having given up all expectation of his + recovery. Some two weeks afterward, an expedition was Sent out to + St. Mary's Bay, conducted by De Champdoré, an experienced pilot, with a + mineralogist, to search for silver and iron ore. While Some of the + party were on a fishing excursion, they rescued him, as stated in the + text. The safe return of the young and too venturesome ecclesiastic + gave great relief to De Monts, as Lescarbot says a Protestant was + charged to have killed him, because they quarrelled sometimes about + their religion.--_Vide Histoire de Nouvelle-France_, par Mare + Lescarbot, Paris, 1612, Qvat. Liv. p. 453. + +51. The partridge-berry, Mitchella, a trailing evergreen, bearing scarlet + berries, edible but nearly tasteless, which remain through the winter. + It is peculiar to America, and this is probably the first time it was + noticed by any historical writer. + +52. He was on the western side of Digby Neck, at its southern extremity, + near the Petit Passage on the shore of the Bay of Fundy. + + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +DESCRIPTION OF PORT ROYAL AND THE PECULIARITIES OF THE SAME.--ISLE HAUTE.-- +PORT OF MINES.--BAYE FRANÇOISE.-THE RIVER ST. JOHN, AND WHAT WE OBSERVED +BETWEEN THE PORT OF MINES AND THE SAME.--THE ISLAND CALLED BY THE SAVAGES +MANTHANE.--THE RIVER OF THE ETECHEMINS, AND SEVERAL FINE ISLANDS THERE.-- +ST. CROIX ISLAND, AND OTHER NOTEWORTHY OBJECTS ON THIS COAST. + +Some days after, Sieur de Monts decided to go and examine the coasts of +Baye Françoise. For this purpose, he set out from the vessel on the 16th of +May,[53] and we went through the strait of Long Island.[54] Not having +found in St. Mary's Bay any place in which to fortify ourselves except at +the cost of much time, we accordingly resolved to see whether there might +not be a more favorable one in the other bay. Heading north-east six +leagues, there is a cove where vessels can anchor in four, five, six, and +seven fathoms of water. The bottom is sandy. This place is only a kind of +roadstead.[55] Continuing two leagues farther on in the same direction, we +entered one of the finest harbors I had seen along all these coasts, in +which two thousand vessels might lie in security. The entrance is eight +hundred paces broad; then you enter a harbor two leagues long and one +broad, which I have named Port Royal.[56] Three rivers empty into it, one +of which is very large, extending eastward, and called Rivière de +l'Équille,[57] from a little fish of the size of an _esplan?_, which is +caught there in large numbers, as is also the herring, and several other +kinds of fish found in abundance in their season. This river is nearly a +quarter of a league broad at its entrance, where there is an island [58] +perhaps half a league in circuit, and covered with wood like all the rest +of the country, as pines, firs, spruces, birches, aspens, and some oaks, +although the latter are found in small numbers in comparison with the other +kinds. There are two entrances to the above river, one on the north, the +other on the south side of the island. That on the north is the better, and +vessels can there anchor under shelter of the island in five, six, seven, +eight, and nine fathoms. But it is necessary to be on one's guard against +some shallows near the island on the one side, and the main land on the +other, very dangerous, if one does not know the channel. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S DESCRIPTION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +PORT AU MOUTON. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. Place where vessels lie. +_B_. Place where we made our camp. +_C_. A pond. +_D_. An island at the entrance to the harbor, covered with wood. +_E_. A river very shallow. +_F_. A pond. +_G_. A very large brook coming from the pond F. +_H_. Six little islands in the harbor. +_L_. Country, containing only copse and heath of very small size. +_M_. Sea-shore. + +NOTE.--The wanting letter L should probably be placed where the trees are +represented as very small, between the letters B and the island F. + + * * * * * + +We ascended the river some fourteen or fifteen leagues, where the tide +rises, and it is not navigable much farther. It has there a breadth of +sixty paces, and about a fathom and a half of water. The country bordering +the river is filled with numerous oaks, ashes, and other trees. Between the +mouth of the river and the point to which we ascended there are many +meadows, which are flooded at the spring tides, many little streams +traversing them from one side to the other, through which shallops and +boats can go at full tide. This place was the most favorable and agreeable +for a settlement that we had seen. There is another island [59] within the +port, distant nearly two leagues from the former. At this point is another +little stream, extending a considerable distance inland, which we named +Rivière St. Antoine. [60] Its mouth is distant from the end of the Bay of +St. Mary some four leagues through the woods. The remaining river is only a +small stream filled with rocks, which cannot be ascended at all on account +of the small amount of water, and which has been named Rocky Brook. [61] +This place is in latitude [62] 45°; and 17° 8' of the deflection of the +magnetic needle. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S DESCRIPTION OF THE MAP + +PORT ROYAL + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. Our habitation. [Note: On the present site of Lower Granville.] + +_B_. Garden of Sieur de Champlain. +_C_. Road through the woods that Sieur de Poutrincourt had made. +_D_. Island at the mouth of Équille River. +_E_. Entrance to Port Royal, +_F_. Shoals, dry at low tide. +_G_. River St. Antoine. [Note: The stream west of river St. Antoine is the + Jogging River.] +_H_. Place under cultivation for sowing wheat. [Note: The site of the + present town of Annapolis.] +_I_. Mill that Sieur de Poutrincourt had made. +_L_. Meadows overflowed at highest tides. +_M_. Équille River. +_N_. Seacoast of Port Royal. +_O_. Ranges of mountains. +_P_. Island near the river St. Antoine. +_Q_. Rocky Brook. [Footnote: Now called Deep Brook.] +_R_. Another brook. [Note: Morris River.] +_S_. Mill River. [Note: Allen River.] +_T_. Small lake. +_V_. Place where the savages catch herring in the season. +_X_. Trout brook. [Note: Trout Brook is now called Shäfer's Brook, and the + first on the west is Thorne's, and the second Scofield's Brook.] +_Y_. A lane that Sieur de Champlain had made. + + * * * * * + +After having explored this harbor, we set out to advance farther on in Baye +Françoise, and see whether we could not find the copper mine, [63] which +had been discovered the year before. Heading north-east, and sailing eight +or ten leagues along the coast of Port Royal,[64] we crossed a part of the +bay Some five or six leagues in extent, when we arrived at a place which we +called the Cape of Two Bays;[65] and we passed by an island a league +distant therefrom, a league also in circuit, rising up forty or forty-five +fathoms. [66] It is wholly surrounded by great rocks, except in one place +which is sloping, at the foot of which slope there is a pond of salt water, +coming from under a pebbly point, having the form of a spur. The surface of +the island is flat, covered with trees, and containing a fine spring of +water. In this place is a copper mine. Thence we proceeded to a harbor a +league and a half distant, where we supposed the copper mine was, which a +certain Prevert of St. Malo had discovered by aid of the savages of the +country. This port is in latitude 45° 40', and is dry at low tide. [67] In +order to enter it, it is necessary to place beacons, and mark out a +sand-bank at the entrance, which borders a channel that extends along the +main land. Then you enter a bay nearly a league in length, and half a +league in breadth. In some places, the bottom is oozy and sandy, where +vessels may get aground. The sea falls and rises there to the extent of +four or five fathoms. We landed to see whether we could find the mines +which Prevert had reported to us. Having gone about a quarter of a league +along certain mountains, we found none, nor did we recognize any +resemblance to the description of the harbor he had given us. Accordingly, +he had not himself been there, but probably two or three of his men had +been there, guided by some savages, partly by land and partly by little +streams, while he awaited them in his shallop at the mouth of a little +river in the Bay of St. Lawrence.[68] These men, upon their return, +brought him several small pieces of copper, which he showed us when he +returned from his voyage. Nevertheless, we found in this harbor two mines +of what seemed to be copper according to the report of our miner, who +considered it very good, although it was not native copper. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S DESCRIPTION OF THE MAP. + +PORT DES MINES. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. A place where vessels are liable to run aground. +_B_. A Small river. +_C_. A tongue of land composed of Sand. +_D_. A point composed of large pebbles, which is like a mole. +_E_. Location of a copper mine, which is covered by the tide twice a day. +_F_. An island to the rear of the Cape of Mines. [Note: Now called + Spencer's Island. Champlain probably obtained his knowledge of this + island at a subsequent visit. There is a creek extending from near + Spencer's Island between the rocky elevations to Advocate's Harbor, or + nearly so, which Champlain does not appear to have seen, or at least + he does not represent it on his map. This point, thus made an island + by the creek, has an elevation of five hundred feet, at the base of + which was the copper mine which they discovered.--_Vide_ note 67.] +_G_. Roadstead where vessels anchor while waiting for the tide. +_H_. Isle Haute, which is a league and a half from Port of Mines. +_I_. Channel. +_L_. Little River. +_M_. Range of mountains along the coast of the Cape of Mines. + + * * * * * + +The head [69] of the Baye Françoise, which we crossed, is fifteen leagues +inland. All the land which we have seen in coasting along from the little +passage of Long Island is rocky, and there is no place except Port Royal +where vessels can lie in Safety. The land is covered with pines and +birches, and, in my opinion, is not very good. + +On the 20th of May,[70] we set out from the Port of Mines to seek a place +adapted for a permanent stay, in order to lose no time, purposing +afterwards to return, and see if we could discover the mine of pure copper +which Prevert's men had found by aid of the savages. We sailed west two +leagues as far as the cape of the two bays, then north five or six leagues; +and we crossed the other bay,[71] where we thought the copper mine was, of +which we have already spoken: inasmuch as there are there two rivers, [72] +the one coming from the direction of Cape Breton, and the other from Gaspé +or Tregatté, near the great river St. Lawrence. Sailing west some six +leagues, we arrived at a little river,[73] at the mouth of which is rather +a low cape, extending out into the sea; and a short distance inland there +is a mountain,[74] having the shape of a Cardinal's hat. In this place we +found an iron mine. There is anchorage here only for shallops. Four leagues +west south-west is a rocky point [75] extending out a short distance into +the water, where there are strong tides which are very dangerous. Near the +point we saw a cove about half a league in extent, in which we found +another iron mine, also very good. Four leagues farther on is a fine bay +running up into the main land;[76] at the extremity of which there are +three islands and a rock; two of which are a league from the cape towards +the west, and the other is at the mouth of the largest and deepest river we +had yet seen, which we named the river St. John, because it was on this +saint's day that we arrived there.[77] By the savages it is called +Ouygoudy. This river is dangerous, if one does not observe carefully +certain points and rocks on the two sides. It is narrow at its entrance, +and then becomes broader. A certain point being passed, it becomes narrower +again, and forms a kind of fall between two large cliffs, where the water +runs so rapidly that a piece of wood thrown in is drawn under and not seen +again. But by waiting till high tide you can pass this fall very easily. +[78] Then it expands again to the extent of about a league in some places, +where there are three islands. We did not explore it farther up.[79] But +Ralleau, secretary of Sieur de Monts, went there some time after to see a +savage named Secondon, chief of this river, who reported that it was +beautiful, large, and extensive, with many meadows and fine trees, as oaks, +beeches, walnut-trees, and also wild grapevines. The inhabitants of the +country go by this river to Tadoussac, on the great river St. Lawrence, +making but a short portage on the journey. From the river St. John to +Tadoussac is sixty-five leagues.[80] At its mouth, which is in latitude +45° 40', there is an iron mine.[81] + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S DESCRIPTION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +RIVIÈRE ST. JEHAN. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. Three islands above the falls. [Note: The islands are not close + together as here represented. One is very near the main land on one + shore, and two on the other.] +_B_. Mountains rising up from the main land, two leagues south of the + river. +_C_. The fall in the river. +_D_. Shoals where vessels, when the tide is out, are liable to run aground. +_E_. Cabin where the savages fortify themselves. +_F_. A pebbly point where there is a cross. +_G_. An island at the entrance of the river. [Note: Partridge Island.] +_H_. A Small brook coming from a little pond. [Note: Mill Pond.] +_I_. Arm of the sea dry at low tide. [Note: Marsh Creek, very shallow but + not entirely dry at low tide.] +_L_. Two little rocky islets. [Note: These islets are not now represented + on the charts, and are probably rocks near the shore from which the + soil may have been washed away since 1604.] +_M_. A small pond. +_N_. Two brooks. +_O_. Very dangerous shoals along the coast, which are dry at low tide. +_P_. Way by which the savages carry their canoes in passing the falls. +_Q_. Place for anchoring where the river runs with full current. + + * * * * * + +From the river St. John we went to four islands, on one of which we landed, +and found great numbers of birds called magpies,[82] of which we captured +many small ones, which are as good as pigeons. Sieur de Poutrincourt came +near getting lost here, but he came back to our barque at last, when we had +already gone to search for him about the island, which is three leagues +distant from the main land. Farther west are other islands; among them one +six leagues in length, called by the savages Manthane,[83] south of which +there are among the islands several good harbors for vessels. From the +Magpie Islands we proceeded to a river on the main land called the river of +the Etechemins,[84] a tribe of savages so called in their country. We +passed by so many islands that we could not ascertain their number, which +were very fine. Some were two leagues in extent, others three, others more +or less. All of these islands are in a bay,[85] having, in my estimation, a +circuit of more than fifteen leagues. There are many good places capable of +containing any number of vessels, and abounding in fish in the season, such +as codfish, salmon, bass, herring, halibut, and other kinds in great +numbers. Sailing west-north-west three leagues through the islands, we +entered a river almost half a league in breadth at its mouth, sailing up +which a league or two we found two islands: one very small near the western +bank; and the other in the middle, having a circumference of perhaps eight +or nine hundred paces, with rocky sides three or four fathoms high all +around, except in one small place, where there is a sandy point and clayey +earth adapted for making brick and other useful articles. There is another +place affording a shelter for vessels from eighty to a hundred tons, but it +is dry at low tide. The island is covered with firs, birches, maples, and +oaks. It is by nature very well situated, except in one place, where for +about forty paces it is lower than elsewhere: this, however, is easily +fortified, the banks of the main land being distant on both sides some nine +hundred to a thousand paces. Vessels could pass up the river only at the +mercy of the cannon on this island, and we deemed the location the most +advantageous, not only on account of its situation and good foil, but also +on account of the intercourse which we proposed with the savages of these +coasts and of the interior, as we should be in the midst of them. We hoped +to pacify them in the course of time, and put an end to the wars which they +carry on with one another, so as to derive service from them in future, and +convert them to the Christian faith. This place was named by Sieur de Monts +the Island of St. Croix. [86] Farther on, there is a great bay, in which +are two islands, one high and the other flat; also three rivers, two of +moderate size, one extending towards the east, the other towards the north, +and the third of large size, towards the west. The latter is that of the +Etechemins, of which we spoke before. Two leagues up this there is a +waterfall, around which the savages carry their canoes some five hundred +paces by land, and then re-enter the river. Passing afterwards from the +river a short distance overland, one reaches the rivers Norumbegue and +St. John. But the falls are impassable for vessels, as there are only rocks +and but four or five feet of water.[87] In May and June, so great a number +of herring and bass are caught there that vessels could be loaded with +them. The soil is of the finest sort, and there are fifteen or twenty acres +of cleared land, where Sieur de Monts had some wheat sown, which flourished +finely. The savages come here sometimes five or six weeks during the +fishing Season. All the rest of the country consists of very dense forests. +If the land were cleared up, grain would flourish excellently. This place +is in latitude 45° 20',[88] and 17° 32' of the deflection of the magnetic +needle. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S DESCRIPTION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +ISLE DE SAINTE CROIX. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. A plan of our habitation. +_B_. Gardens. +_C_. Little islet serving as a platform for cannon. [Note: This refers to + the southern end of the island, which was probably separated at high + tide, where a cannon may be seen in position.] +_D_. Platform where cannon were placed. +_E_. The Cemetery. +_F_. The Chapel. +_G_. Rocky shoals about the Island Sainte Croix. +_H_. A little islet. [Note: Little De Monts's Island, Sometimes called + Little Dochet's Island.] +_I_. Place where Sieur de Monts had a water-mill commenced. +_L_. Place where we made our coal. +_M_. Gardens on the western shore. +_N_. Other gardens on the eastern shore. +_O_. Very large and high mountain on the main land. [Note: This "mountain" + is now called Chamcook Hill. Its height is 627 feet. At the northern + end of the island on the right there is an extensive sandy shoal, dry + at low tide, of a triangular shape as formerly, and has apparently + changed very little since the days of Champlain.] +_P_. River of the Etechemins flowing about the Island of St. Croix. + + * * * * * + +ENDNOTES: + +53. For May read June. It could not have been in May, since Champlain Set + out from Port Mouton on his exploring expedition on the 19th of May, + which must have been a month previous to this. + +54. What is now called the Petit Passage, the narrow strait between Long + Island and Digby Neck. + +55. Gulliver's Hole, about two leagues south-west of Digby Strait. + +56. Champlain here names the whole harbor or basin Port Royal, and not the + place of habitation afterward so called. The first settlement was on + the north side of the bay in the present hamlet of Lower Granville, not + as often alleged at Annapolis.--_Vide_ Champlain's engraving or map of + Port Royal. + +57. "Équille." A name, on the coasts between Caen and Havre, of the fish + called lançon at Granville and St. Malo, a kind of malacopterygious + fish living on sandy shores and hiding in the sand at low tide.-- + _Littré_. A species of sand eel. This stream is now known as the + Annapolis River. Lescarbot calls it Rivière du Dauphin. + +58. This island is situated at the point where the Annapolis River flows + into the bay, or about nine miles from Digby, straight. Champlain on + his map gives it no name, but Lescarbot calls it Biencourville. It is + now called Goat Island. + +59. Lescarbot calls it Claudiane. It is now known as Bear Island. It was + Sometimes called Ile d'Hébert, and likewise Imbert Island. Laverdière + suggests that the present name is derived from the French pronunciation + of the last syllable of Imbert. + +60. At present known as Bear River; Lescarbot has it Hebert, and + Charlevoix, Imbert. + +61. On modern maps called Moose River, and sometimes Deep Brook. It is a + few miles east of Bear River. + +62. The latitude is here overstated: it should be 44° 39' 30". + +63. On the preceding year, M. Prevert of St. Malo had made a glowing report + ostensively based on his own observations and information which he had + obtained from the Indians, in regard to certain mines alleged to exist + on the coast directly South of Northumberland Strait, and about the + head of the Bay of Fundy. It was this report of Prevert that induced + the present search. + +64. Along the Bay of Fundy nearly parallel to the basin of Port Royal would + better express the author's meaning. + +65. Cape Chignecto, the point where the Bay of Fundy is bifurcated; the + northern arm forming Chignecto Bay, and the southern, the Bay of Mines + or Minas Basin. + +66. Isle Haute, or high island.--_Vide Charlevoix's Map_. On Some maps this + name has been strangely perverted into Isle Holt, Isle Har, &c. Its + height is 320 feet. + +67. This was Advocate's Harbor. Its distance from Cape Chignecto is greater + than that stated in the text. Further on, Champlain calls it two + leagues, which is nearly correct. Its latitude is about 45° 20'. By + comparing the Admiralty charts and Champlain's map of this harbor, it + will be seen that important changes have taken place since 1604. The + tongue of land extending in a south-easterly direction, covered with + trees and shrubbery, which Champlain calls a sand-bank, has entirely + disappeared. The ordinary tides rise here from thirty-three to + thirty-nine feet, and on a sandy shore could hardly fail to produce + important changes. + +68. According to the Abbé Laverdière, the lower part of the Gulf was + sometimes called the Bay of St. Lawrence. + +69. They had just crossed the Bay of Mines. From the place where they + crossed it to its head it is not far from fifteen leagues, and it is + about the same distance to Port Royal, from which he may here estimate + the distance inland. + +70. Read June.--_Vide antea_, note 53. + +71. Chignecto Bay. Charlevoix has Chignitou _ou Beau Bassin_. On De Laet's + Map of 1633, on Jacob von Meur's of 1673, and Homenn's of 1729, we have + B. de Gennes. The Cape of Two Bays was Cape Chignecto. + +72. The rivers are the Cumberland Basin with its tributaries coming from + the east, and the Petitcoudiac (_petit_ and _coude_, little elbow, from + the angle formed by the river at Moncton, called the Bend), which flows + into Shepody Bay coming from the north or the direction of Gaspé. + Champlain mentions all these particulars, probably as answering to the + description given to them by M. Prevert of the place where copper mines + could be found. + +73. Quaco River, at the mouth of which the water is shallow: the low cape + extending out into the sea is that on which Quaco Light now stands, + which reaches out quarter of a mile, and is comparatively low. The + shore from Goose River, near where they made the coast, is very high, + measuring at different points 783, 735, 650, 400, 300, 500, and 380 + feet, while the "low cape" is only 250 feet, and near it on the west is + an elevation of 400 feet. It would be properly represented as "rather a + low cape" in contradistinction to the neighboring coast. Iron and + manganese are found here, and the latter has been mined to some extent, + but is now discontinued, as the expense is too great for the present + times. + +74. This mountain is an elevation, eight or ten miles inland from Quaco, + which may be seen by vessels coasting along from St. Martin's Head to + St. John: it is indicated on the charts as Mt. Theobald, and bears a + striking resemblance, as Champlain suggests, to the _chapeau de + Cardinal_. + +75. McCoy's Head, four leagues west of Quaco: the "cove" may be that on the + east into which Gardner's Creek flows, or that on the west at the mouth + of Emmerson's Creek. + +76. The Bay of St. John, which is four leagues south-west of McCoy's + Head. The islands mentioned are Partridge Island at the mouth of the + harbor, and two smaller ones farther west, one Meogenes, and the other + Shag rock or some unimportant islet in its vicinity. The rock mentioned + by Champlain is that on which Spit Beacon Light now stands. + +77. The festival of St. John the Baptist occurs on the 24th of June; and, + arriving on that day, they gave the name of St. John to the river, + which has been appropriately given also to the city at its mouth, now + the metropolis of the province of New Brunswick. + +78. Champlain was under a missapprehension about passing the fall at the + mouth of the St. John at high tide. It can in fact only be passed at + about half tide. The waters of the river at low tide are about twelve + feet higher than the waters of the sea. At high tide, the waters of the + sea are about five feet higher than the waters of the river. + Consequently, at low tide there is a fall outward, and at high tide + there is a fall inward, at neither of which times can the fall be + passed. The only time for passing the fall is when the waters of the + sea are on a level with the waters of the river. This occurs twice + every tide, at the level point at the flood and likewise at the ebb. + The period for passing lasts about fifteen or twenty minutes, and of + course occurs four times a day. Vessels assemble in considerable + numbers above and below to embrace the opportunity of passing at the + favoring moment. There are periods, however, when the river is swollen + by rains and melting snow, at which the tides do not rise as high as + the river, and consequently there is a constant fall outward, and + vessels cannot pass until the high water subsides. + +79. They ascended the river only a short distance into the large bay just + above the falls, near which are the three islands mentioned in the + text. + +80. The distance from the mouth of the river St. John to Tadoussac in a + direct line is about sixty-five leagues. But by the winding course of + the St. John it would be very much greater. + +81. Champlain's latitude is inexact. St. John's Harbor is 45° 16'. + +82. _Margos_, magpies. The four islands which Champlain named the Magpies + are now called the Wolves, and are near the mouth of Passamaquoddy + Bay. Charlevoix has _Oiseaux_, the Birds. + +83. Manan. Known as the Grand Manan in contradistinction to the Petit + Manan, a small island still further west. It is about fourteen or + fifteen miles long, and about six in its greatest width. On the south + and eastern side are Long Island, Great Duck, Ross, Cheyne, and White + Head Islands, among which good harborage may be found. The name, as + appears in the text, is of Indian origin. It is Sometimes Spelled + Menarse, but that in the text prevails. + +84. The St. Croix River, sometimes called the Scoudic. + +85. Passsmaquoddy Bay. On Gastaldo's map of 1550 called Angoulesme. On + Rouge's "Atlas Ameriquain," 1778, it is written Passamacadie. + +86. The Holy Cross, _Saincte Croix_, This name was suggested by the + circumstance that, a few miles above the island, two streams flow into + the main channel of the river at the same place, one from the east and + the other from the west, while a bay makes up between them, presenting + the appearance of a cross. + + "Et d'autant qu'à deux lieues au dessus il y a des ruisseaux qui + viennent comme en croix de décharger dans ce large bras de mer, cette + île de la retraite des François fut appelée SAINCTE CROIX."--_His. + Nouvelle France_ par Lescarbot, Paris. 1612, Qvat Liv. pp. 461, 462. + + It is now called De Monts's Island. It has been called Dochet's Island + and Neutral Island, but there is great appropriateness in calling it + after its first occupant and proprietor, and in honor of him it has + been so named with suitable ceremonies.--_Vide Godfrey's Centennial + Discourse_, Bangor, 1870, p. 20. The United States maintain a light + upon the island, which is seventy-one feet above the level of the sea, + and is visible twelve nautical miles. The island itself is moderately + high, and in the widest part is one hundred and eighty paces or about + five hundred and forty feet. The area is probably not more than six or + seven acres, although it has been estimated at twice that. It may have + been diminished in some slight degree since the time of Champlain by + the action of the waves, but probably very little. On the southern + extremity of the island where De Monts placed his cannon, about + twenty-five years ago a workman in excavating threw out five small + cannon-balls, one of which was obtained by Peter E. Vose, Esq., of + Dennysville, Me., who then resided near the island, and was conversant + with all the circumstances of the discovery. They were about a foot and + a half below the surface, and the workman was excavating for another + purpose, and knew nothing of the history of the island. At our + solicitation, the ball belonging to Mr. Vose has recently been + presented to the New England Historic Genealogical Society, of which he + is a member. It is iron, perfectly round, two and a quarter inches in + diameter, and weighs 22 oz. avoirdupois. There can be no reasonable + doubt that these balls are relics of the little French colony of 1604, + and probably the only memorial of the kind now in existence. + +87. The description in the text of the environs of the Island of St. Croix + is entirely accurate. Some distance above, and in view from the island, + is the fork, or Divide, as it is called. Here is a meeting of the + waters of Warwig Creek from the east, Oak Bay from the north, and the + river of the Etechemins, now called the St. Croix, from the west. These + are the three rivers mentioned by Champlain, Oak Bay being considered + as one of them, in which may be seen the two islands mentioned in the + text, one high and the other low. A little above Calais is the + waterfall, around which the Indians carried their bark canoes, when on + their journey up the river through the Scoudic lakes, from which by + land they reached the river St. John on the east, or, on the west, + passing through the Mettawamkeag, they reached the Norumbegue, or + Penobscot River. + +88. The latitude of the Island of St. Croix is 45° 7' 43". + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +SIEUR DE MONTS, FINDING NO OTHER PLACE BETTER ADAPTED FOR A PERMANENT +SETTLEMENT THAN THE ISLAND OF ST. CROIX, FORTIFIES IT AND BUILDS +DWELLINGS.--RETURN OF THE VESSELS TO FRANCE, AND OF RALLEAU, SECRETARY OF +SIEUR DE MONTS, FOR THE SAKE OF ARRANGING SOME BUSINESS AFFAIRS. + + +Not finding any more suitable place than this island, we commenced making a +barricade on a little islet a short distance from the main island, which +served as a station for placing our cannon. All worked so energetically +that in a little while it was put in a state of defence, although the +mosquitoes (which are little flies) annoyed us excessively in our work. +For there were several of our men whose faces were so swollen by their +bites that they could scarcely see. The barricade being finished, Sieur de +Monts sent his barque to notify the rest of our party, who were with our +vessel in the bay of St. Mary, to come to St. Croix. This was promptly +done, and while awaiting them we spent our time very pleasantly. + +Some days after, our vessels having arrived and anchored, all disembarked. +Then, without losing time, Sieur de Monts proceeded to employ the workmen +in building houses for our abode, and allowed me to determine the +arrangement of our settlement. After Sieur de Monts had determined the +place for the storehouse, which is nine fathoms long, three wide, and +twelve feet high, he adopted the plan for his own house, which he had +promptly built by good workmen, and then assigned to each one his location. +Straightway, the men began to gather together by fives and sixes, each +according to his desire. Then all set to work to clear up the island, to go +to the woods, to make the frame work, to carry earth and other things +necessary for the buildings. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S DESCRIPTION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +HABITATION DE L'ISLE STE. CROIX. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. Dwelling of Sieur de Monts. +_B_. Public building where we spent our time when it rained. +_C_. The storehouse. +_D_. Dwelling of the guard. +_E_. The blacksmith shop. +_F_. Dwelling of the carpenters. +_G_. The well. +_H_. The oven where the bread was made. +_I_. Kitchen. +_L_. Gardens. +_M_. Other gardens. +_N_. Place in the centre where a tree stands. +_O_. Palisade. +_P_. Dwellings of the Sieurs d'Orville, Champlain, and Champdoré. +_Q_. Dwelling of Sieur Boulay, and other artisans. +_R_. Dwelling where the Sieurs de Genestou, Sourin, and other artisans + lived. +_T_. Dwelling of the Sieurs de Beaumont, la Motte Bourioli, and Fougeray. +_V_. Dwelling of our curate. +_X_. Other gardens. +_Y_. The river surrounding the island. + + * * * * * + +While we were building our houses, Sieur de Monts despatched Captain +Fouques in the vessel of Rossignol, [89] to find Pont Gravé at Canseau, in +order to obtain for our settlement what supplies remained. + +Some time after he had set out, there arrived a small barque of eight tons, +in which was Du Glas of Honfleur, pilot of Pont Grave's vessel, bringing +the Basque ship-masters, who had been captured by the above Pont Gravé [90] +while engaged in the fur-trade, as we have stated. Sieur de Monts received +them civilly, and sent them back by the above Du Glas to Pont Gravé, with +orders for him to take the vessels he had captured to Rochelle, in order +that justice might be done. Meanwhile, work on the houses went on +vigorously and without cessation; the carpenters engaged on the storehouse +and dwelling of Sieur de Monts, and the others each on his own house, as I +was on mine, which I built with the assistance of some servants belonging +to Sieur d'Orville and myself. It was forthwith completed, and Sieur de +Monts lodged in it until his own was finished. An oven was also made, and a +handmill for grinding our wheat, the working of which involved much trouble +and labor to the most of us, since it was a toilsome operation. Some +gardens were afterwards laid out, on the main land as well as on the +island. Here many kinds of seeds were planted, which flourished very well +on the main land, but not on the island, since there was only sand here, +and the whole were burned up when the sun shone, although special pains +were taken to water them. + +Some days after, Sieur de Monts determined to ascertain where the mine of +pure copper was which we had searched for so much. With this object in +view, he despatched me together with a savage named Messamoüet, who +asserted that he knew the place well. I set out in a small barque of five +or six tons, with nine sailors. Some eight leagues from the island, towards +the river St. John, we found a mine of copper which was not pure, yet good +according to the report of the miner, who said that it would yield eighteen +per cent. Farther on we found others inferior to this. When we reached the +place where we supposed that was which we were hunting for, the savage +could not find it, so that it was necessary to come back, leaving the +search for another time. + +Upon my return from this trip. Sieur de Monts resolved to send his vessels +back to France, and also Sieur de Poutrincourt, who had come only for his +pleasure, and to explore countries and places suitable for a colony, which +he desired to found; for which reason he asked Sieur de Monts for Port +Royal, which he gave him in accordance with the power and directions he had +received from the king. [91] He sent back also Ralleau, his secretary, to +arrange some matters concerning the voyage. They set out from the Island of +St. Croix the last day of August, 1604. + +ENDNOTES: + +89. This was the vessel taken from Captain Rossignol and confiscated.-- + _Vide antea_, pp. 10, 12; also note 26. + +90. Champlain and others often write only Pont for Pont Gravé. Lescarbot + says Gravé was his surname.--_Vide Histoire de la Nou. Fran_., Paris, + 1612, Qvat. Liv. p. 501. To prevent any confusion, we write it Pont + Gravé in all cases. + +91. De Monts's charter provided for the distribution of lands to colonists. + This gift to De Poutrincourt was confirmed afterwards by the king. We + may here remark that there is the usual discrepancy in the orthography + of this name. Lescarbot, De Laet, and Charlevoix write Poutrincourt. In + his Latin epitaph, _vide Murdoch's Nova Scotia_, Vol. I. p. 59, it is + Potrincurtius, while Champlain has Poitrincourt. In Poutrincourt's + letter to the Roman Pontiff, Paul V., written in Latin, he says, _Ego + Johannes de Biencour, vulgo De Povtrincovr a vitae religionis amator et + attestor perpetuus_, etc. This must be conclusive for Poutrincourt as + the proper orthography.--_Vide His. Nov. Fra._, par Lescarbot, Paris, + 1612, p. 612. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +OF THE COAST, INHABITANTS, AND RIVER OF NORUMBEGUE, AND OF ALL THAT +OCCURRED DURING THE EXPLORATION OF THE LATTER. + + +After the departure of the vessels, Sieur de Monts, without losing time, +decided to send persons to make discoveries along the coast of Norumbegue; +and he intrusted me with this work, which I found very agreeable. + +In order to execute this commission, I set out from St. Croix on the 2d of +September with a patache of seventeen or eighteen tons, twelve sailors, and +two savages, to serve us as guides to the places with which they were +acquainted. The same day we found the vessels where Sieur de Poutrincourt +was, which were anchored at the mouth of the river St. Croix in consequence +of bad weather, which place we could not leave before the 5th of the month. +Having gone two or three leagues seaward, so dense a fog arose that we at +once lost sight of their vessels. Continuing our course along the coast, we +made the same day some twenty-five leagues, and passed by a large number of +islands, banks, reefs, and rocks, which in places extend more than four +leagues out to Sea. We called the islands the Ranges, most of which are +covered with pines, firs, and other trees of an inferior sort. Among these +islands are many fine harbors, but undesirable for a permanent settlement. +The same day we passed also near to an island about four or five leagues +long, in the neighborhood of which we just escaped being lost on a little +rock on a level with the water, which made an opening in our barque near +the keel. From this island to the main land on the north, the distance is +less than a hundred paces. It is very high, and notched in places, so that +there is the appearance to one at sea, as of seven or eight mountains +extending along near each other. The summit of the most of them is +destitute of trees, as there are only rocks on them. The woods consist of +pines, firs, and birches only. I named it Isle des Monts Déserts.[92] The +latitude is 44° 30'. + +The next day, the 6th of the month, we sailed two leagues, and perceived a +smoke in a cove at the foot of the mountains above mentioned. We saw two +canoes rowed by savages, which came within musket range to observe us. I +sent our two Savages in a boat to assure them of our friendship. Their fear +of us made them turn back. On the morning of the next day, they came +alongside of our barque and talked with our savages. I ordered some +biscuit, tobacco, and other trifles to be given them. These savages had +come beaver-hunting and to catch fish, some of which they gave us. Having +made an alliance with them, they guided us to their river of Pentegoüet, +[93] so called by them, where they told us was their captain, named +Bessabez, chief of this river. I think this river is that which several +pilots and historians call Norumbegue, [94] and which most have described +as large and extensive, with very many islands, its mouth being in latitude +43°, 43° 30', according to others in 44°, more or less. With regard to the +deflection, I have neither read, nor heard any one say any thing. It is +related also that there is a large, thickly settled town of savages, who +are adroit and skillful, and who have cotton yarn. I am confident that most +of those who mention it have not seen it, and speak of it because they have +heard persons say so, who knew no more about it than they themselves. I am +ready to believe that some may have seen the mouth of it, because there are +in reality many islands, and it is, as they say, in latitude 44° at its +entrance. But that any one has ever entered it there is no evidence, for +then they would have described it in another manner, in order to relieve +the minds of many of this doubt. + +I will accordingly relate truly what I explored and saw, from the beginning +as far as I went. + +In the first place, there are at its entrance several islands distant ten +or twelve leagues from the main land, which are in latitude 44°, and 18° +40' of the deflection of the magnetic needle. The Isle des Monts Déserts +forms one of the extremities of the mouth, on the east; the other is low +land, called by the savages Bedabedec, [95] to the west of the former, the +two being distant from each other nine or ten leagues. Almost midway +between these, out in the ocean, there is another island very high and +conspicuous, which on this account I have named Isle Haute. [96] All around +there is a vast number of varying extent and breadth, but the largest is +that of the Monts Déserts. Fishing as also hunting are very good here; the +fish are of various kinds. Some two or three leagues from the point of +Bedabedec, as you coast northward along the main land which extends up this +river, there are very high elevations of land, which in fair weather are +seen twelve or fifteen leagues out at Sea. [97] Passing to the South of the +Isle Haute, and coasting along the same for a quarter of a league, where +there are some reefs out of water, and heading to the west until you open +all the mountains northward of this island, you can be sure that, by +keeping in sight the eight or nine peaks of the Monts Déserts and +Bedabedec, you will cross the river Norumbegue; and in order to enter it +you must keep to the north, that is, towards the highest mountains of +Bedabedec, where you will see no islands before you, and can enter, sure of +having water enough, although you see a great many breakers, islands, and +rocks to the east and west of you. For greater security, one should keep +the sounding lead in hand. And my observations lead me to conclude that one +cannot enter this river in any other place except in small vessels or +shallops. For, as I stated above, there are numerous islands, rocks, +shoals, banks, and breakers on all sides, so that it is marvellous to +behold. + +Now to resume our course: as one enters the river, there are beautiful +islands, which are very pleasant and contain fine meadows. We proceeded to +a place to which the savages guided us, where the river is not more than an +eighth of a league broad, and at a distance of some two hundred paces from +the western shore there is a rock on a level with the water, of a dangerous +character.[98] From here to the Isle Haute, it is fifteen leagues. From +this narrow place, where there is the least breadth that we had found, +after sailing some seven or eight leagues, we came to a little river near +which it was necessary to anchor, as we saw before us a great many rocks +which are uncovered at low tide, and since also, if we had desired to sail +farther, we could have gone scarcely half a league, in consequence of a +fall of water there coming down a slope of seven or eight feet, which I saw +as I went there in a canoe with our savages; and we found only water enough +for a canoe. But excepting the fall, which is some two hundred paces broad, +the river is beautiful, and unobstructed up to the place where we had +anchored. I landed to view the country, and, going on a hunting excursion, +found it very pleasant so far as I went. The oaks here appear as if they +were planted for ornament. I saw only a few firs, but numerous pines on one +side of the river; on the other only oaks, and some copse wood which +extends far into the interior.[99] And I will state that from the entrance +to where we went, about twenty-five leagues, we saw no town, nor village, +nor the appearance of there having been one, but one or two cabins of the +savages without inhabitants. These were made in the same way as those of +the Souriquois, being covered with the bark of trees. So far as we could +judge, the Savages on this river are few in number, and are called +Etechemins. Moreover, they only come to the islands, and that only during +some months in summer for fish and game, of which there is a great +quantity. They are a people who have no fixed abode, so far as I could +observe and learn from them. For they spend the winter now in one place and +now in another, according as they find the best hunting, by which they live +when urged by their daily needs, without laying up any thing for times of +scarcity, which are sometimes severe. + +Now this river must of necessity be the Norumbegue; for, having coasted +along past it as far as the 41° of latitude, we have found no other on the +parallel above mentioned, except that of the Quinibequy, which is almost in +the same latitude, but not of great extent. Moreover, there cannot be in +any other place a river extending far into the interior of the country, +since the great river St. Lawrence washes the coast of La Cadie and +Norumbegue, and the distance from one to the other by land is not more than +forty-five leagues, or sixty at the widest point, as can be seen on my +geographical map. + +Now I will drop this discussion to return to the savages who had conducted +me to the falls of the river Norumbegue, who went to notify Bessabez, their +chief, and other savages, who in turn proceeded to another little river to +inform their own, named Cabahis, and give him notice of our arrival. + +The 16th of the month there came to us some thirty savages on assurances +given them by those who had served us as guides. There came also to us the +same day the above named Bessabez with six canoes. As soon as the savages +who were on land saw him coming, they all began to sing, dance, and jump, +until he had landed. Afterwards, they all seated themselves in a circle on +the ground, as is their custom, when they wish to celebrate a festivity, or +an harangue is to be made. Cabahis, the other chief, arrived also a little +later with twenty or thirty of his companions, who withdrew one side and +enjoyed greatly seeing us, as it was the first time they had seen +Christians. A little while after, I went on shore with two of my companions +and two of our savages who served as interpreters. I directed the men in +our barque to approach near the savages, and hold their arms in readiness +to do their duty in case they noticed any movement of these people against +us. Bessabez, seeing us on land, bade us sit down, and began to smoke with +his companions, as they usually do before an address. They presented us +with venison and game. + +I directed our interpreter to say to our savages that they should cause +Bessabez, Cabahis, and their companions to understand that Sieur de Monts +had sent me to them to see them, and also their country, and that he +desired to preserve friendship with them and to reconcile them with their +enemies, the Souriquois and Canadians, and moreover that he desired to +inhabit their country and show them how to cultivate it, in order that they +might not continue to lead so miserable a life as they were doing, and some +other words on the same subject. This our savages interpreted to them, at +which they signified their great satisfaction, saying that no greater good +could come to them than to have our friendship, and that they desired to +live in peace with their enemies, and that we should dwell in their land, +in order that they might in future more than ever before engage in hunting +beavers, and give us a part of them in return for our providing them with +things which they wanted. After he had finished his discourse, I presented +them with hatchets, paternosters, caps, knives, and other little +knick-knacks, when we separated from each other. All the rest of this day +and the following night, until break of day, they did nothing but dance, +sing, and make merry, after which we traded for a certain number of +beavers. Then each party returned, Bessabez with his companions on the one +side, and we on the other, highly pleased at having made the acquaintance +of this people. + +The 17th of the month I took the altitude, [100] and found the latitude 45° +25'. This done, we set out for another river called Quinibequy, distant +from this place thirty-five leagues, and nearly twenty from Bedabedec. This +nation of savages of Quinibequy are called Etechemins, as well as those of +Norumbegue. + +The 18th of the month we passed near a small river where Cabahis was, who +came with us in our barque some twelve leagues; and having asked him whence +came the river Norumbegue, he told me that it passes the fall which I +mentioned above, and that one journeying some distance on it enters a lake +by way of which they come to the river of St. Croix, by going some distance +over land, and then entering the river of the Etechemins. Moreover, another +river enters the lake, along which they proceed some days, and afterwards +enter another lake and pass through the midst of it. Reaching the end of +it, they make again a land journey of some distance, and then enter another +little river, which has its mouth a league from Quebec, which is on the +great river St. Lawrence. [101] All these people of Norumbegue are very +swarthy, dressed in beaver-skins and other furs, like the Canadian and +Souriquois savages, and they have the same mode of life. + +The 20th of the month we sailed along the western coast, and passed the +mountains of Bedabedec, [102] when we anchored. The same day we explored +the entrance to the river, where large vessels can approach; but there are +inside some reefs, to avoid which one must advance with sounding lead in +hand. Our Savages left us, as they did not wish to go to Quinibequy, for +the savages of that place are great enemies to them. We sailed some eight +leagues along the western coast to an island [103] ten leagues distant from +Quinibequy, where we were obliged to put in on account of bad weather and +contrary wind. At one point in our course, we passed a large number of +islands and breakers extending some leagues out to sea, and very dangerous. +And in view of the bad weather, which was so unfavorable to us, we did not +sail more than three or four leagues farther. All these islands and coasts +are covered with extensive woods, of the same sort as that which I have +reported above as existing on the other coasts. And in consideration of the +small quantity of provisions which we had, we resolved to return to our +settlement and wait until the following year, when we hoped to return and +explore more extensively. We accordingly set out on our return on the 23d +of September, and arrived at our settlement on the 2d of October following. + +The above is an exact statement of all that I have observed respecting not +only the coasts and people, but also the river of Norumbegue; and there are +none of the marvels there which some persons have described. I am of +opinion that this region is as disagreeable in winter as that of our +settlement, in which we were greatly deceived. [104] + +ENDNOTES: + +92. The natives called this island Pemetiq. _Isle que les Saunages + appellent Pemetiq.--Vide Relation de la Nouvelle-France_, par F. Biard. + 1616. Relations des Jésuites, Quebec ed. 1858. p. 44. When the attempt + was made in 1613 to plant a colony there on the Marchioness de + Guercheville, the settlement was named St. Sauveur. This island was + also by the English called Mount Mansell. But the name given to it by + Champlain has prevailed, and still adheres to it. + + The description here given of the barrenness of the island clearly + suggests the origin of the name. Desert should therefore be pronounced + with the accent on the first syllable. The latitude of the most + northern limit of the island is 44° 24'. + +93. Penobscot. The name of this river has been variously written Pentagoet, + Pentagwet, Pemptegoet, Pentagovett, Penobskeag, Penaubsket, and in + various other ways. The English began early to write it Penobscot. It + is a word of Indian origin, and different meanings have been assigned + to it by those who have undertaken to interpret the language from which + it is derived. + +94. The Abbé Laverdière is of the opinion that the river Norumbegue was + identical with the Bay of Fundy. His only authority is Jean Alfonse, + the chief pilot of Roberval in 1541-42. Alfonse says; "Beyond the cape + of Noroveregue descends the river of the said Noroveregue, which is + about twenty-five leagues from the cape. The said river is more than + forty leagues broad at its mouth, and extends this width inward well + thirty or forty leagues, and is all full of islands which enter ten or + twelve leagues into the sea, and it is very dangerous with rocks and + reefs." If the cape of Norumbegue is the present Cape Sable, as it is + supposed to be, by coasting along the shores of Nova Scotia from that + cape in a north-westerly direction a little more than twenty leagues, + we shall reach St. Mary's Bay, which may be regarded as the beginning + of the Bay of Fundy, and from that point in a straight line to the + mouth of the Penobscot the distance is more than forty leagues, which + was the breadth of the Norumbegue at its mouth, according to the + statement of Alfonse. The Abbé Laverdière is not quite correct in + saying that the river Norumbegue is the same as the Bay of Fundy. It + includes, according to Alfonse, who is not altogether consistent with + himself, not only the Bay of Fundy, but likewise the Penobscot River + and the bay of the same name, with its numerous islands. Alfonse left a + drawing or map of this region in his Cosmography, which Laverdière had + not probably seen, on which the Bay of Fundy and the Penobscot are + correctly laid down, and the latter is designated the "_Rivière de + Norvebergue_." It is therefore obvious, if this map can be relied upon, + that the river of Norumbegue was identical, not with the Bay of Fundy, + but with the Penobscot, in the opinion of Alfonse, in common with the + "plusieurs pilottes et historiens" referred to by Champlain.--_Vide + copy of the Chart from the MS. Cosmography of Juan Alfonse_ in + Bibliothèque Nationale, Paris, in Mr. Murphy's Voyage of Verrazzano, + New York, 1875. + +95. An indefinite region about Rockland and Camden, on the western bank of + the Penobscot near its mouth, appears to have been the domain of the + Indian chief, Bessabez, and was denominated Bedabedec. The Camden Hills + were called the mountains of Bedabedec, and Owl's Head was called + Bedabedec Point. + +96. Isle Haute, _high island_, which name it still retains. Champlain wrote + it on his map, 1632, "Isle Haulte." It has been anglicized by some into + Isle Holt. It is nearly six miles long, and has an average width of + over two miles, and is the highest land in its vicinity, reaching at + its highest point four hundred feet above the level of the sea. + +97. Camden Hills or Mountains. They are five or six in number, from 900 to + 1,500 feet high, and maybe seen, it is said, twenty leagues at sea. The + more prominent are Mt. Batty, Mt. Pleasant, and Mt. Hosmer, or Ragged + Mountain. They are Sometimes called the Megunticook Range. Colonel + Benjamin Church denominates them "Mathebestuck's Hills,"--_Vide + Church's History of King Philip's War_, Newport, 1772, p. 143. Captain + John Smith calls them the mountains of Penobscot, "against whose feet + doth beat the sea." which, he adds, "you may well see sixteen or + eighteen leagues from their situation." + +98. This narrow place in the river is just above Castine, where Cape + Jellison stretches out towards the east, at the head of the bay, and at + the mouth of the river. At the extremity of the cape is Fort Point, so + called from Fort Pownall, erected there in 1759, a step rocky elevation + of about eighty feet in height. Before the erection of the fort by + Governor Pownall, it was called Wafaumkeag Point.--_Vide Pownall's + Journal_, Col. Me. His. Soc., Vol. V. p. 385. The "rock" alluded to by + Champlain is Fort Point Ledge, bare at half tide, south-east by east + from the Point, and distant over half a mile. Champlain's distances + here are somewhat overestimated. + +99. The terminus of this exploration of the Penobscot was near the present + site of the city of Bangor. The small river near the mouth of which + they anchored was the Kenduskeag. The falls which Champlain visited + with the Indians in a canoe are those a short distance above the + city. The sentence, a few lines back, beginning "But excepting this + fall" is complicated, and not quite logical, but the author evidently + means to describe the river from its mouth to the place of their + anchorage at Bangor. + +100. The interview with the Indians on the 16th, and the taking of the + altitude on the 17th, must have occurred before the party left their + anchorage at Bangor with the purpose, but which they did not + accomplish that year, of visiting the Kennebec. This may be inferred + from Champlain's statement that the Kennebec was thirty-five leagues + distant from the place where they then were, and nearly twenty leagues + distant from Bedabedec. Consequently, they were fifteen leagues above + Bedabedec, which was situated near the mouth of the river. The + latitude, which they obtained from their observations, was far from + correct: it should be 44° 46'. + +101. The Indian chief Cabahis here points out two trails, the one leading + to the French habitation just established on the Island of St. Croix, + the other to Quebec; by the former, passing up the Penobscot from the + present site of Bangor, entering the Matawamkeag, keeping to the east + in their light bark canoes to Lake Boscanhegan, and from there passing + by land to the stream then known as the river of the Etechemins, now + called the Scoudic or St. Croix. The expression "by which they come to + the river of St. Croix" is explanatory: it has no reference to the + name of the river, but means simply that the trail leads to the river + in which was the island of St. Croix. This river had not then been + named St. Croix, but had been called by them the river of the + Etechemins.--_Vide antea_, p. 31. + + The other trail led up the north branch of the Penobscot, passing + through Lake Pemadumcook, and then on through Lake Chefuncook, finally + reaching the source of this stream which is near that of the + Chaudière, which latter flows into the St. Lawrence, near Quebec. It + would seem from the text that Champlain supposed that the Penobscot + flowed from a lake into which streams flowed from both the objective + points, viz. St. Croix and Quebec: but this was a mistake not at all + unnatural, as he had never been over the ground, and obtained his + information from the Indians, whose language he imperfectly + understood. + +102. Bedabedec is an Indian word, signifying cape of the waters, and was + plainly the point known as Owl's Head. It gave name to the Camden + Mountains also. _Vide antea_, note 95. + +103. Mosquito and Metinic Islands are each about ten leagues east of the + Kennebec. As the party went but four leagues further, the voyage must + have terminated in Muscongus Bay. + +104. An idle story had been circulated, and even found a place on the pages + of sober history, that on the Penobscot, or Norumbegue, as it was then + called, there existed a fair town, a populous city, with the + accessories of luxury and wealth. Champlain here takes pains to show, + in the fullest manner, that this story was a baseless dream of fancy, + and utterly without foundation. Of it Lescarbot naïvely says, "If this + beautiful town hath ever existed in nature, I would fain know who hath + pulled it down, for there are now only a few scattered wigwams made of + poles covered with the bark of trees and the skins of wild beasts." + There is no evidence, and no probability, that this river had been + navigated by Europeans anterior to this exploration of Champlain. The + existence of the bay and the river had been noted long before. They + are indicated on the map of Ribero in 1529. Rio de Gamas and Rio + Grande appear on early maps as names of this river, but are soon + displaced for Norumbega, a name which was sometimes extended to a wide + range of territory on both sides of the Penobscot. On the Mappe-Monde + of 1543-47, issued by the late M. Jomard, it is denominated + Auorobagra, evidently intended for Norumbega. Thevet, who visited it, + or sailed along its mouth in 1556, speaks of it as Norumbegue. It is + alleged that the aborigines called it Agguncia. According to Jean + Alfonse, it was discovered by the Portuguese and Spaniards.--_Vide + His. de la N. France_, par M. Lescarbot, Paris, 1612, Qvat. Liv. + p. 495. The orthography of this name is various among early writers, + but Norumbegue is adopted by the most approved modern authors. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +OF THE MAL DE LA TERRE, A VERY DESPERATE MALADY.--HOW THE SAVAGES, MEN AND +WOMEN, SPEND THEIR TIME IN WINTER.--AND ALL THAT OCCURRED AT THE SETTLEMENT +WHILE WE WERE PASSING THE WINTER. + +When we arrived at the Island of St. Croix, each one had finished his place +of abode. Winter came upon us sooner than we expected, and prevented us +from doing many things which we had proposed. Nevertheless, Sieur de Monts +did not fail to have some gardens made on the island. Many began to clear +up the ground, each his own. I also did so with mine, which was very large, +where I planted a quantity of foods, as also did the others who had any, +and they came up very well. But since the island was all sandy, every thing +dried up almost as soon as the Sun shone upon it, and we had no water for +irrigation except from the rain, which was infrequent. + +Sieur de Monts caused also clearings to be made on the main land for making +gardens, and at the falls three leagues from our Settlement he had work +done and some wheat sown, which came up very well and ripened. Around our +habitation there is, at low tide, a large number of shell-fish, such as +cockles, muscles, sea-urchins, and Sea-snails, which were very acceptable +to all. + +The snows began on the 6th of October. On the 3d of December, we saw ice +pass which came from some frozen river. The cold was sharp, more severe +than in France, and of much longer duration; and it scarcely rained at all +the entire winter. I suppose that is owing to the north and north-west +winds passing over high mountains always covered with snow. The latter was +from three to four feet deep up to the end of the month of April; lasting +much longer, I suppose, than it would if the country were cultivated. + +During the winter, many of our company were attacked by a certain malady +called the _mal de la terre_; otherwise scurvy, as I have since heard from +learned men. There were produced, in the mouths of those who had it, great +pieces of superfluous and drivelling flesh (causing extensive +putrefaction), which got the upper hand to such an extent that scarcely +anything but liquid could be taken. Their teeth became very loose, and +could be pulled out with the fingers without its causing them pain. The +superfluous flesh was often cut out, which caused them to eject much blood +through the mouth. Afterwards, a violent pain seized their arms and legs, +which remained swollen and very hard, all spotted as if with flea-bites; +and they could not walk on account of the contraction of the muscles, so +that they were almost without strength, and suffered intolerable pains. +They experienced pain also in the loins, stomach, and bowels, had a very +bad cough, and short breath. In a word, they were in such a condition that +the majority of them could not rise nor move, and could not even be raised +up on their feet without falling down in a swoon. So that out of +seventy-nine, who composed our party, thirty-five died, and more than +twenty were on the point of death. The majority of those who remained well +also complained of slight pains and short breath. We were unable to find +any remedy for these maladies. A _post mortem_ examination of several was +made to investigate the cause of their disease. + +In the case of many, the interior parts were found mortified such as the +lungs, which were so changed that no natural fluid could be perceived in +them. The spleen was serous and swollen. The liver was _legueux?_ and +spotted, without its natural color. The _vena cava_, superior and inferior, +was filled with thick coagulated and black blood. The gall was tainted. +Nevertheless, many arteries, in the middle as well as lower bowels, were +found in very good condition. In the case of some, incisions with a razor +were made on the thighs where they had purple spots, whence there issued a +very black clotted blood. This is what was observed on the bodies of those +infected with this malady.[105] + +Our surgeons could not help suffering themselves in the same manner as the +rest. Those who continued sick were healed by spring, which commences in +this country in May.[106] That led us to believe that the change of season +restored their health rather than the remedies prescribed. + +During this winter, all our liquors froze, except the Spanish wine. Cider +was dispensed by the pound. The cause of this loss was that there were no +cellars to our storehouse, and that the air which entered by the cracks was +sharper than that outside. We were obliged to use very bad water, and drink +melted snow, as there were no springs nor brooks; for it was not possible +to go to the main land in consequence of the great pieces of ice drifted by +the tide, which varies three fathoms between low and high water. Work on +the hand-mill was very fatiguing, since the most of us, having slept +poorly, and suffering from insufficiency of fuel, which we could not obtain +on account of the ice, had scarcely any strength, and also because we ate +only salt meat and vegetables during the winter, which produce bad blood. +The latter circumstance was, in my opinion, a partial cause of these +dreadful maladies. All this produced discontent in Sieur de Monts and +others of the settlement. + +It would be very difficult to ascertain the character of this region +without spending a winter in it; for, on arriving here in summer, every +thing is very agreeable, in consequence of the woods, fine country, and the +many varieties of good fish which are found there. There are six months of +winter in this country. + +The savages who dwell here are few in number. During the winter, in the +deepest snows, they hunt elks and other animals, on which they live most of +the time. And, unless the snow is deep, they scarcely get rewarded for +their pains, since they cannot capture any thing except by a very great +effort, which is the reason for their enduring and suffering much. When +they do not hunt, they live on a shell-fish, called the cockle. They clothe +themselves in winter with good furs of beaver and elk. The women make all +the garments, but not so exactly but that you can see the flesh under the +arm-pits, because they have not ingenuity enough to fit them better. When +they go a hunting, they use a kind of show-shoe twice as large as those +hereabouts, which they attach to the soles of their feet, and walk thus +over the show without sinking in, the women and children as well as the +men. They search for the track of animals, which, having found, they +follow until they get sight of the creature, when they shoot at it with +their bows, or kill it by means of daggers attached to the end of a short +pike, which is very easily done, as the animals cannot walk on the snow +without sinking in. Then the women and children come up, erect a hut, and +they give themselves to feasting. Afterwards, they return in search of +other animals, and thus they pass the winter. In the month of March +following, some savages came and gave us a portion of their game in +exchange for bread and other things which we gave them. This is the mode of +life in winter of these people, which seems to me a very miserable one. + +We looked for our vessels at the end of April; but, as this passed without +their arriving, all began to have an ill-boding, fearing that some accident +had befallen them. For this reason, on the 15th of May, Sieur de Monts +decided to have a barque of fifteen tons and another of seven fitted up, so +that we might go at the end of the month of June to Gaspé in quest of +vessels in which to return to France, in case our own should not meanwhile +arrive. But God helped us better than we hoped; for, on the 15th of June +ensuing, while on guard about 11 o'clock at night, Pont Gravé, captain of +one of the vessels of Sieur de Monts, arriving in a shallop, informed us +that his ship was anchored six leagues from our settlement, and he was +welcomed amid the great joy of all. + +The next day the vessel arrived, and anchored near our habitation. Pont +Gravé informed us that a vessel from St. Malo, called the St. Estienne, +was following him, bringing us provisions and supplies. + +On the 17th of the month, Sieur de Monts decided to go in quest of a place +better adapted for an abode, and with a better temperature than our own. +With this view, he had the barque made ready, in which he had purposed to +go to Gaspé. + +ENDNOTES: + +105. _Mal de la terre_. Champlain had bitter experiences of this disease in + Quebec during the winter of 1608-9, when he was still ignorant of its + character; and it was not till several years later that he learned + that it was the old malady called _scurbut_, from the Sclavonic + _scorb_. Latinized into _scorbuticus_. Lescarbot speaks of this + disease as little understood in his time, but as known to Hippocrates. + He quotes Olaus Magnus, who describes it as it appeared among the + nations of the north, who called it _sorbet_, [Greek: kachexia], from + [Greek: kakos], bad, and [Greek: exis], a habit. This undoubtedly + expresses the true cause of this disease, now familiarly known as the + scurvy. It follows exposure to damp, cold, and impure atmosphere, + accompanied by the long-continued use of the same kind of food, + particularly of salt meats, with bad water. All of these conditions + existed at the Island of St. Croix. Champlain's description of the + disease is remarkably accurate. + +106. This passage might be read, "which is in this country in May:" _lequel + commence en ces pays là est en May_. As Laverdière suggests, it looks + as if Champlain wrote it first _commence_, and then, thinking that the + winter he had experienced might have been exceptional, substituted + _est_, omitting to erase _commence_, so that the sentence, as it + stands, is faulty, containing two verbs instead of one, and being + susceptible of a double sense. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +DISCOVERY OF THE COAST OF THE ALMOUCHIQUOIS AS FAR AS THE FORTY-SECOND +DEGREE OF LATITUDE, AND DETAILS OF THIS VOYAGE. + + +On the 18th of June, 1605, Sieur de Monts set out from the Island of +St. Croix with some gentlemen, twenty sailors, and a savage named +Panounias, together with his wife, whom he was unwilling to leave behind. +These we took, in order to serve us as guides to the country of the +Almouchiquois, in the hope of exploring and learning more particularly by +their aid what the character of this country was, especially since she was +a native of it. + +Coasting, along inside of Manan, an island three leagues from the main +land, we came to the Ranges on the seaward side, at one of which we +anchored, where there was a large number of crows, of which our men +captured a great many, and we called it the Isle aux Corneilles. Thence we +went to the Island of Monts Déserts, at the entrance of the river +Norumbegue, as I have before stated, and sailed five or six leagues among +many islands. Here there came to us three savages in a canoe from Bedabedec +Point, where their captain was; and, after we had had some conversation +with them, they returned the same day. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S DESCRIPTION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +QUINIBEQUY. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. The course of the river. +_B_. Two islands at the entrance of the river. +_C_. Two very dangerous rocks in the river. +_D_. Islets and rocks along the coast. +_E_. Shoals where at full tide vessels of sixty tons' burden may run + aground. +_F_. Place where the savages encamp when they come to fish. +_G_. Sandy shoals along the coast. +_H_. Pond of fresh water. +_I_. Brook where shallops can enter at half tide. +_L_. Islands to the number of four just within the mouth of the river. + + * * * * * + +On Friday, the 1st of July, we set out from one of the islands at the mouth +of the river, where there is a very good harbor for vessels of a hundred or +a hundred and fifty tons. This day we made some twenty-five leagues between +Bedabedec Point and many islands and rocks, which we observed as far as the +river Quinibequy, at the mouth of which is a very high island, which we +called the Tortoise. [107] Between the latter and the main land there are +some scattering rocks, which are covered at full tide, although the sea is +then seen to break over them. [108] Tortoise Island and the river lie +south-south-east and north-north-west. As you enter, there are two +medium-sized islands forming the entrance, one on one side, the other on +the other; [109] and some three hundred paces farther in are two rocks, +where there is no wood, but some little grass. We anchored three hundred +paces from the entrance in five and six fathoms of water. While in this +place, we were overtaken by fogs, on account of which we resolved to enter, +in order to see the upper part of the river and the savages who live there; +and we set out for this purpose on the 5th of the month. Having made some +leagues, our barque came near being lost on a rock which we grazed in +passing. [110] Further on, we met two canoes which had come to hunt birds, +which for the most part are moulting at this season, and cannot fly. We +addressed these savages by aid of our own, who went to them with his wife, +who made them understand the reason of our coming. We made friends with +them and with the savages of this river, who served us as guides. +Proceeding farther, in order to see their captain, named Manthoumermer, we +passed, after we had gone seven or eight leagues, by some islands, straits, +and brooks, which extend along the river, where we saw some fine +meadows. After we had coasted along an island [111] some four leagues in +length, they conducted us to where their chief was [112] with twenty-five +or thirty savages, who, as soon as we had anchored, came to us in a canoe, +separated a short distance from ten others, in which were those who +accompanied him. Coming near our barque, he made an harangue, in which he +expressed the pleasure it gave him to see us, and said that he desired to +form an alliance with us and to make peace with his enemies through our +mediation. He said that, on the next day, he would send to two other +captains of savages, who were in the interior, one called Marchin, and the +other Sasinou, chief of the river Quinibequy. Sieur de Monts gave them some +cakes and peas, with which they were greatly pleased. The next day they +guided us down the river another way than that by which we had come, in +order to go to a lake; and, passing by some islands, they left, each one of +them, an arrow near a cape [113] where all the savages pass, and they +believe that if they should not do this some misfortune would befall them, +according to the persuasions of the devil. They live in such superstitions, +and practise many others of the same sort. Beyond this cape we passed a +very narrow waterfall, but only with great difficulty; for, although we had +a favorable and fresh wind, and trimmed our sails to receive it as well as +possible, in order to see whether we could not pass it in that way, we were +obliged to attach a hawser to some trees on shore and all pull on it. In +this way, by means of our arms together with the help of the wind, which +was favorable to us, we succeeded in passing it. The savages accompanying +us carried their canoes by land, being unable to row them. After going over +this fall, we saw some fine meadows. I was greatly surprised by this fall, +since as we descended with the tide we found it in our favor, but contrary +to us when we came to the fall. But, after we had passed it, it descended +as before, which gave us great Satisfaction. [114] Pursuing our route, we +came to the lake, [115] which is from three to four leagues in length. Here +are some islands, and two rivers enter it, the Quinibequy coming from the +north north-east, and the other from the north-west, whence were to come +Marchin and Sasinou. Having awaited them all this day, and as they did not +come, we resolved to improve our time. We weighed anchor accordingly, and +there accompanied us two savages from this lake to serve as guides. The +same day we anchored at the mouth of the river, where we caught a large +number of excellent fish of various sorts. Meanwhile, our savages went +hunting, but did not return. The route by which we descended this river is +much safer and better than that by which we had gone. Tortoise Island +before the mouth of this river is in latitude [116] 44°; and 19° 12' of the +deflection of the magnetic needle. They go by this river across the country +to Quebec some fifty leagues, making only one portage of two leagues. After +the portage, you enter another little stream which flows into the great +river St. Lawrence [117]. This river Quinibequy is very dangerous for +vessels half a league from its mouth, on account of the small amount of +water, great tides, rocks and shoals outside as well as within. But it has +a good channel, if it were well marked out. The land, so far as I have seen +it along the shores of the river, is very poor, for there are only rocks on +all sides. There are a great many small oaks, and very little arable land. +Fish abound here, as in the other rivers which I have mentioned. The people +live like those in the neighborhood of our settlement; and they told us +that the savages, who plant the Indian corn, dwelt very far in the +interior, and that they had given up planting it on the coasts on account +of the war they had with others, who came and took it away. This is what I +have been able to learn about this region, which I think is no better than +the others. + +On the 8th of the month, we set out from the mouth of this river, not being +able to do so sooner on account of the fogs. We made that day some four +leagues, and passed a bay [118], where there are a great many islands. From +here large mountains [119] are seen to the west, in which is the +dwelling-place of a savage captain called Aneda, who encamps near the river +Quinibequy. I was satisfied from this name that it was one of his tribe +that had discovered the plant called Aneda, [120] which Jacques Cartier +said was so powerful against the malady called scurvy, of which we have +already spoken, which harassed his company as well as our own, when they +wintered in Canada. The savages have no knowledge at all of this plant, and +are not aware of its existence, although the above-mentioned savage has the +same name. The following day we made eight leagues. [121] As we passed +along the coast, we perceived two columns of smoke which some savages made +to attract our attention. We went and anchored in the direction of them +behind a small island near the main land, [122] where we saw more than +eighty savages running along the shore to see us, dancing and giving +expression to their joy. Sieur de Monts sent two men together with our +savage to visit them. After they had spoken some time with them, and +assured them of our friendship, we left with them one of our number, and +they delivered to us one of their companions as a hostage. Meanwhile, Sieur +de Monts visited an island, which is very beautiful in view of what it +produces; for it has fine oaks and nut-trees, the soil cleared up, and many +vineyards bearing beautiful grapes in their season, which were the first we +had seen on all these coasts from the Cap de la Hève. We named it Isle de +Bacchus [123]. It being full tide, we weighed anchor and entered a little +river, which we could not sooner do; for there is a bar, there being at low +tide only half a fathom of water, at full tide a fathom and a half, and at +the highest water two fathoms. On the other side of the bar there are +three, four, five, and six fathoms. When we had anchored, a large number of +savages came to the bank of the river, and began to dance. Their captain at +the time, whom they called Honemechin [124], was not with them. He arrived +about two or three hours later with two canoes, when he came sweeping +entirely round our barque. Our savage could understand only a few words, as +the language of the Almouchiquois [125] (for that is the name of this +nation) differs entirely from that of the Souriquois and Etechemins. These +people gave signs of being greatly pleased. Their chief had a good figure, +was young and agile. We sent some articles of merchandise on shore to +barter with them; but they had nothing but their robes to give in exchange, +for they preserve only such furs as they need for their garments. Sieur de +Monts ordered some provisions to be given to their chief, with which he was +greatly pleased, and came several times to the side of our boat to see us. +These savages shave off the hair far up on the head, and wear what remains +very long, which they comb and twist behind in various ways very neatly, +intertwined with feathers which they attach to the head. They paint their +faces black and red, like the other savages which we have seen. They are an +agile people, with well-formed bodies. Their weapons are pikes, clubs, bows +and arrows, at the end of which some attach the tail of a fish called the +signoc, others bones, while the arrows of others are entirely of wood. They +till and cultivate the soil, something which we have not hitherto +observed. In the place of ploughs, they use an instrument of very hard +wood, shaped like a spade. This river is called by the inhabitants of the +country Choüacoet. [126] + +The next day Sieur de Monts and I landed to observe their tillage on the +bank of the river. We saw their Indian corn, which they raise in gardens. +Planting three or four kernels in one place, they then heap up about it a +quantity of earth with shells of the signoc before mentioned. Then three +feet distant they plant as much more, and thus in succession. With this +corn they put in each hill three or four Brazilian beans, [127] which are +of different colors. When they grow up, they interlace with the corn, which +reaches to the height of from five to six feet; and they keep the ground +very free from weeds. We saw there many squashes,[128] and pumpkins, [129] +and tobacco, which they likewise cultivate. [130] + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +CHOUACOIT R. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. The river. +_B_. Place where they have their fortress. +_C_. Cabins in the open fields, near which they cultivate the land and + plant Indian corn. +_D_. Extensive tract of land which is sandy, but covered with grass. +_E_. Another place where they have their dwellings all together after they + have planted their corn. +_F_. Marshes with good pasturage. +_G_. Spring of fresh water. +_H_. A large point of land all cleared up except some fruit trees and wild + vines. +_I_. Little island at the entrance of the river. +_L_. Another islet. +_M_. Two islands under shelter of which vessels can anchor with good + bottom. +_N_. A point of land cleared up where Marchin came to us. +_O_. Four islands. +_P_. Little brook dry at low tide. +_Q_. Shoals along the coast. +_R_. Roadsted where vessels can anchor while waiting for the tide. + +NOTES. Of the two islands in the northern part of the bay, the larger, +marked _M_, is Stratton Island, nearly half a mile long, and a mile and a +half from Prout's Neck, which lies north of it. A quarter of a mile from +Stratton is Bluff Island, a small island north-west of it. Of the four +islands at the southern end of the bay, the most eastern is Wood Island, on +which the United States maintain a light. The next on the west, two hundred +and fifty yards distant, is Negro Island. The third still further west is +Stage Island. The fourth, quarter of a mile west of the last named, is +Basket Island. The neck or peninsula, south-west of the islands, is now +called the POOL, much resorted to as a watering-place in the summer. The +island near the mouth of the river is Ram Island, and that directly north +of it is Eagle Island. From the mouth of the River to Prout's Neck, marked, +is one of the finest beaches in New England, extending about six nautical +miles. Its Southern extremity is known as Ferry, the northern Scarborough, +and midway between them is Old Orchard Beach, the latter a popular resort +in the summer months of persons from distant parts of the United States and +Canada. + + * * * * * + +The Indian corn which we saw was at that time about two feet high, some of +it as high as three. The beans were beginning to flower, as also the +pumpkins and squashes. They plant their corn in May, and gather it in +September. We saw also a great many nuts, which are small and have several +divisions. There were as yet none on the trees, but we found plenty under +them, from the preceding year. We saw also many grape-vines, on which there +was a remarkably fine berry, from which we made some very good verjuice. +We had heretofore seen grapes only on the Island of Bacchus, distant nearly +two leagues from this river. Their permanent abode, the tillage, and the +fine trees led us to conclude that the air here is milder and better than +that where we passed the winter, and at the other places we visited on the +coast. But I cannot believe that there is not here a considerable degree +of cold, although it is in latitude 43° 45'. [131] The forests in the +interior are very thin, although abounding in oaks, beeches, ashes, and +elms; in wet places there are many willows. The savages dwell permanently +in this place, and have a large cabin surrounded by palisades made of +rather large trees placed by the side of each other, in which they take +refuge when their enemies make war upon them. [132] They cover their cabins +with oak bark. This place is very pleasant, and as agreeable as any to be +seen. The river is very abundant in fish, and is bordered by meadows. At +the mouth there is a small island adapted for the construction of a good +fortress, where one could be in security. + +On Sunday, [133] the 12th of the month, we set out from the river +Choüacoet. After coasting along some six or seven leagues, a contrary wind +arose, which obliged us to anchor and go ashore, [134] where we saw two +meadows, each a league in length and half a league in breadth. We saw there +two savages, whom at first we took to be the great birds called bustards, +to be found in this country; who, as soon as they caught sight of us, took +flight into the woods, and were not seen again. From Choüacoet to this +place, where we saw some little birds, which sing like blackbirds, and are +black excepting the ends of the wings, which are orange-colored, [135] +there is a large number of grape-vines and nut-trees. This coast is sandy, +for the most part, all the way from Quinibequy. This day we returned two +or three leagues towards Choüacoet, as far as a cape which we called Island +Harbor, [136] favorable for vessels of a hundred tons, about which are +three islands. Heading north-east a quarter north, one can enter another +harbor [137] near this place, to which there is no approach, although there +are islands, except the one where you enter. At the entrance there are some +dangerous reefs. There are in these islands so many red currants that one +sees for the most part nothing else, [138] and an infinite number of +pigeons, [139] of which we took a great quantity. This Island Harbor [140] +is in latitude 43° 25'. + +On the 15th of the month we made twelve leagues. Coasting along, we +perceived a smoke on the shore, which we approached as near as possible, +but saw no savage, which led us to believe that they had fled. The sun set, +and we could find no harbor for that night, since the coast was flat and +sandy. Keeping off, and heading south, in order to find an anchorage, after +proceeding about two leagues, we observed a cape [141] on the main land +south a quarter south-east of us, some six leagues distant. Two leagues to +the east we saw three or four rather high islands, [142] and on the west a +large bay. The coast of this bay, reaching as far as the cape, extends +inland from where we were perhaps four leagues. It has a breadth of two +leagues from north to south, and three at its entrance. [143] Not observing +any place favorable for putting in, [144] we resolved to go to the cape +above mentioned with short sail, which occupied a portion of the night. +Approaching to where there were sixteen fathoms of water, we anchored until +daybreak. + +On the next day we went to the above-mentioned cape, where there are three +islands [145] near the main land, full of wood of different kinds, as at +Choüacoet and all along the coast; and still another flat one, where there +are breakers, and which extends a little farther out to Sea than the +others, on which there is no wood at all. We named this place Island Cape, +[146] near which we saw a canoe containing five or six savages, who came +out near our barque, and then went back and danced on the beach. Sieur de +Monts sent me on shore to observe them, and to give each one of them a +knife and some biscuit, which caused them to dance again better than +before. This over, I made them understand, as well as I could, that I +desired them to show me the course of the shore. After I had drawn with a +crayon the bay, [147] and the Island Cape, where we were, with the same +crayon they drew the outline of another bay, [148] which they represented +as very large; here they placed six pebbles at equal distances apart, +giving me to understand by this that these signs represented as many chiefs +and tribes. [149] Then they drew within the first mentioned bay a river +which we had passed, which has shoals and is very long. [150] We found in +this place a great many vines, the green grapes on which were a little +larger than peas, also many nut-trees, the nuts on which were no larger +than musket-balls. The savages told us that all those inhabiting this +country cultivated the land and sowed seeds like the others, whom we had +before seen. The latitude of this place is 43° and some minutes. [151] +Sailing half a league farther, we observed several savages on a rocky +point, [152] who ran along the shore, dancing as they went, to their +companions to inform them of our coming. After pointing out to us the +direction of their abode, they made a signal with smoke to show us the +place of their settlement. We anchored near a little island, [153] and sent +our canoe with knives and cakes for the savages. From the large number of +those we saw, we concluded that these places were better inhabited than the +others we had seen. + +After a stay of some two hours for the sake of observing those people, +whose canoes are made of birch bark, like those of the Canadians, +Souriquois, and Etechemins, we weighed anchor and set sail with a promise +of fine weather. Continuing our course to the west-south-west we saw +numerous islands on one side and the other. Having sailed seven or eight +leagues, we anchored near an island, [154] whence we observed many smokes +along the shore, and many savages running up to see us. Sieur de Monts sent +two or three men in a canoe to them, to whom he gave some knives and +paternosters to present to them; with which they were greatly pleased, and +danced several times in acknowledgment. We could not ascertain the name of +their chief, as we did not know their language. All along the shore there +is a great deal of land cleared up and planted with Indian corn. The +country is very pleasant and agreeable, and there is no lack of fine trees. +The canoes of those who live there are made of a single piece, and are very +liable to turn over if one is not skilful in managing them. We had not +before seen any of this kind. They are made in the following manner. After +cutting down, at a cost of much labor and time, the largest and tallest +tree they can find, by means of stone hatchets (for they have no others +except some few which they received from the Savages on the coasts of La +Cadie, [155] them in exchange for furs), they remove the bark, and round +off the tree except on one side, where they apply fire gradually along its +entire length; and sometimes they put red-hot pebble-stones on top. When +the fire is too fierce, they extinguish it with a little water, not +entirely, but so that the edge of the boat may not be burnt. It being +hollowed out as much as they wish, they scrape it all over with stones, +which they use instead of knives. These stones resemble our musket flints. + +On the next day, the 17th of the month, we weighed anchor to go to a cape +we had seen the day before, which seemed to lie on our south +south-west. This day we were able to make only five leagues, and we passed +by some islands [156] covered with wood. I observed in the bay all that the +savages had described to me at Island Cape. As we continued our course, +large numbers came to us in canoes from the islands and main land. We +anchored a league from a cape, which we named St. Louis, [157] where we +noticed smoke in several places. While in the act of going there, our +barque grounded on a rock, where we were in great danger, for, if we had +not speedily got it off, it would have overturned in the sea, since the +tide was falling all around, and there were five or six fathoms of +water. But God preserved us, and we anchored near the above-named cape, +when there come to us fifteen or sixteen canoes of savages. In some of them +there were fifteen or sixteen, who began to manifest great signs of joy, +and made various harangues, which we could not in the least understand. +Sieur de Monts sent three or four men on shore in our canoe, not only to +get water, but to see their chief, whose name was Honabetha. The latter had +a number of knives and other trifles, which Sieur de Monts gave him, when +he came alongside to see us, together with some of his companions, who were +present both along the shore and in their canoes. We received the chief +very cordially, and made him welcome; who, after remaining some time, went +back. Those whom we had sent to them brought us some little squashes as big +as the fist, which we ate as a salad, like cucumbers, and which we found +very good. They brought also some purslane, [158] which grows in large +quantities among the Indian corn, and of which they make no more account +than of weeds. We saw here a great many little houses, scattered over the +fields where they plant their Indian corn. + +There is, moreover, in this bay a very broad river, which we named River du +Guast. [159] It stretches, as it seemed to me, towards the Iroquois, a +nation in open warfare with the Montagnais, who live on the great river +St. Lawrence. + +ENDNOTES: + +107. _Isle de la Tortue_, commonly known as Seguin Island, high and rocky, + with precipitous shores. It is nearly equidistant from Wood, Pond, and + Salter's Islands at the mouth of the Kennebec, and about one mile and + three quarters from each. The United States light upon it is 180 feet + above the level of the sea. It may be seen at the distance of twenty + miles. + +108. Ellingwood Rock, Seguin Ledges, and White Ledge. + +109. Pond Island on the west, and Stage Island on the east: the two rocks + referred to in the same sentence are now called the Sugar Loaves. + +110. This was apparently in the upper part of Back River, where it is + exceedingly narrow. The minute and circumstantial description of the + mouth of the Kennebec, and the positive statement in the text that + they entered the river so described, and the conformity of the + description to that laid down on our Coast Survey Charts, as well as + on Champlain's local map, all render it certain that they entered the + mouth of the Kennebec proper; and having entered, they must have + passed on a flood-tide into and through Back River, which in some + places is so narrow that their little barque could hardly fall to be + grazed in passing. Having reached Hockomock Bay, they passed down + through the lower Hell Gate, rounded the southern point of West Port + or Jerremisquam Island, sailing up its eastern shore until they + reached the harbor of Wiscasset; then down the western side, turning + Hockomock Point, threading the narrow passage of the Sasanoa River + through the upper Hell Gate, entering the Sagadahoc, passing the + Chops, and finally through the Neck, into Merrymeeting Bay. The + narrowness of the channel and the want of water at low tide in Back + River would seem at first blush to throw a doubt over the possibility + of Champlain's passing through this tidal passage. But it has at least + seven feet of water at high tide. His little barque, of fifteen tons, + without any cargo, would not draw more than four feet at most, and + would pass through without any difficulty, incommoded only by the + narrowness of the channel to which Champlain refers. With the same + barque, they passed over the bar at Nauset, or Mallebarre, where + Champlain distinctly says there were only four feet of water.--_Vide + postea_, p. 81. + +111. West Port, or Jerremisquam Island. + +112. This was Wiscasset Harbor, as farther on it will be seen that from + this point they started down the river, taking another way than that + by which they had come. + +113. Hockomock Point, a rocky precipitous bluff. + +114. The movement of the waters about this "narrow waterfall" has been a + puzzle from the days of Champlain to the present time. The phenomena + have not changed. Having consulted the United States Coast Pilot and + likewise several persons who have navigated these waters and have a + personal knowledge of the "fall," the following is, we think, a + satisfactory explanation. The stream in which the fall occurs is + called the Sasanoa, and is a tidal current flowing from the Kennebec, + opposite the city of Bath, to the Sheepscot. It was up this tidal + passage that Champlain was sailing from the waters of the Sheepscot to + the Kennebec, and the "narrow waterfall" was what is now called the + upper Hell Gate, which is only fifty yards wide, hemmed in by walls of + rock on both sides. Above it the Sasanoa expands into a broad bay. + When the tide from the Kennebec has filled this bay, the water rushes + through this narrow gate with a velocity Sometimes of thirteen miles + an hour. There is properly no fall in the bed of the stream, but the + appearance of a fall is occasioned by the pent-up waters of the bay + above rushing through this narrow outlet, having accumulated faster + than they could be drained off. At half ebb, on a spring tide, a wall + of water from six inches to a foot stretches across the stream, and + the roar of the flood boiling over the rocks at the Gate can be heard + two miles below. The tide continues to flow up the Sasanoa from the + Sheepscot not only on the flood, but for some time on the ebb, as the + waters in the upper part of the Sheepscot and its bays, in returning, + naturally force themselves up this passage until they are sufficiently + drained off to turn the current in the Sasanoa in the other direction. + Champlain, sailing from the Sheepscot up the Sasanoa, arrived at the + Gate probably just as the tide was beginning to turn, and when there + was comparatively only a slight fall, but yet enough to make it + necessary to force their little barque up through the Gate by means of + hawsers as described in the text. After getting a short distance from + the narrows, he would be on the water ebbing back into the Kennebec, + and would be still moving with the tide, as he had been until he + reached the fall. + +115. Merrymeeting Bay, so called from the meeting in this bay of the two + rivers mentioned in the text a little below, viz., the Kennebec and + the Androscoggin. + +116. The latitude of Seguin, here called Tortoise Island, is 43° 42' 25". + +117. The head-waters of the Kennebec, as well as those of the Penobscot, + approach very near to the Chaudière, which flows into the St. + Lawrence near Quebec. + +118. Casco Bay, which stretches from Cape Small Point to Cape Elizabeth. It + has within it a hundred and thirty-six islands. They anchored and + passed the night somewhere within the limits of this bay, but did not + attempt its exploration. + +119. These were the White Mountains in New Hampshire, towering above the + sea 6,225 feet. They are about sixty miles distant from Casco Bay, and + were observed by all the early voyagers as they sailed along the coast + of Maine. They are referred to on Ribero's Map of 1529 by the Spanish + word _montañas_, and were evidently seen by Estevan Gomez in 1525, + whose discoveries are delineated by this map. They will also be found + on the Mappe-Monde of about the middle of the sixteenth century, and + on Sebastian Cabot's map, 1544, both included in the "Monuments de la + Géographie" of Jomard, and they are also indicated on numerous other + early maps. + +120. This conjecture is not sustained by any evidence beyond the similarity + of the names. There are numerous idle opinions as to the kind of plant + which was so efficacious a remedy for the scurvy, but they are utterly + without foundation. There does not appear to be any means of + determining what the healing plant was. + +121. The four leagues of the previous day added to the eight of this bring + them from the Kennebec to Saco Bay. + +122. The small island "proche de la grande terre" was Stratton Island: they + anchored on the northern side and nearly east of Bluff Island, which + is a quarter of a mile distant. The Indians came down to welcome them + from the promontory long known as Black Point, now called Prout's + Neck. Compare Champlain's local map and the United States Coast Survey + Charts. + +123. Champlain's narrative, together with his sketch or drawing, + illustrating the mouth of the Saco and its environs, compared with the + United States Coast Survey Charts, renders it certain that this was + Richmond Island. Lescarbot describes it as a 'great island, about half + a league in compass, at the entrance of the bay of the said place of + Choüacoet It is about a mile long, and eight hundred yards in its + greatest width.--_Coast Pilot_. It received its present name at a very + early period. It was granted under the title of "a small island, + called Richmond," by the Council for New England to Walter Bagnall, + Dec. 2, 1631.--_Vide Calendar of Eng. State Papers_, Col. 1574-1660, + p. 137. Concerning the death of Bagnall on this island a short time + before the above grant was made, _vide Winthrop's Hist. New Eng._, + ed. 1853, Vol. I. pp. 75, 118. + +124. Lescarbot calls him Olmechin.--_Histoire de la Nouvelle France_, par + M. Lescarbot, Paris, 1612, p. 558. + +125. They had hoped that the wife of Panounias, their Indian guide, who was + said to have been born among the Almouchiquois, would be able to + interpret their language, but in this they appear to have been + disappointed.--_Vide antea_, p. 55. + +126. From the Indian word, M'-foo-ah-koo-et, or, as the French pronounced + it, _Choüacoet_, which had been the name, applied by the aborigines to + this locality we know not how long, is derived the name Saco, now + given to the river and city in the same vicinity. The orthography + given to the original word is various, as Sawocotuck, Sowocatuck, + Sawakquatook, Sockhigones, and Choüacost. The variations in this, as + in other Indian words, may have arisen from a misapprehension of the + sound given by the aborigines, or from ignorance, on the part of + writers, of the proper method of representing sounds, joined to an + utter indifference to a matter which seemed to them of trifling + importance. + +127. _Febues du Brésil_. This is the well-known trailing or bush-bean of + New England, _Phaseolus vulgaris_, called the "Brazilian bean" because + it resembled a bean known in France at that time under that name. It + is sometimes called the kidney-bean. It is indigenous to America. + +128. _Citrouilles_, the common summer squash, _Cucurbita polymorpha_, as + may be seen by reference to Champlain's map of 1612, where its form is + delineated over the inscription, _la forme des sitroules_. It is + indigenous to America. Our word squash is derived from the Indian + _askutasquash_ or _isquoutersquash_. "In summer, when their corne is + spent, Isquoutersquashes is their best bread, a fruit like the young + Pumpion."--_Wood's New England Prospect_, 1634, Prince Society ed., + p. 76. "_Askutasquash_, their Vine aples, which the _English_ from + them call _Squashes_, about the bignesse of Apples, of severall + colours, a sweet, light, wholesome refreshing."--_Roger Williams, + Key_, 1643, Narragansett Club ed., p. 125. + +129. _Courges_, the pumpkin, _Cucurbita maxima_, indigenous to America. As + the pumpkin and likewise the squash were vegetables hitherto unknown + to Champlain, there was no French word by which he could accurately + identify them. The names given to them were such as he thought would + describe them to his countrymen more nearly than any others. Had he + been a botanist, he would probably have given them new names. + +130. _Petum_. Tobacco, _Nicotiana rustica_, sometimes called wild tobacco. + It was a smaller and more hardy species than the _Nicotiana tabacum_, + now cultivated in warmer climates, but had the same qualities though + inferior in strength and aroma. It was found in cultivation by the + Indians all along our coast and in Canada. Cartier observed it growing + in Canada in 1535. Of it he says: "There groweth also a certain kind + of herbe, whereof in Sommer they make a great prouision for all the + yeere, making great account of it, and onely men vse of it, and first + they cause it to be dried in the Sunne, then weare it about their + neckes wrapped in a little beasts skinne made like a little bagge, + with a hollow peece of stone or wood like a pipe; then when they + please they make pouder of it, and then put it in one of the ends of + the said Cornet or pipe, and laying a cole of fire vpon it, at the + other ende sucke so long, that they fill their bodies full of smoke, + till that it commeth out of their mouth and nostrils, euen as out of + the Tonnell of a chimney. They say that this doth keepe them warme and + in health: they neuer goe without some of it about them. We ourselues + haue tryed the same smoke, and hauing put it in our mouthes, it seemed + almost as hot as Pepper."--_Jacques Cartier, 2 Voyage_, 1535; + _Hakluyt_, London, ed. 1810, Vol. III. p. 276. + + We may here remark that the esculents found in cultivation at Saco, + beans, squashes, pumpkins, and corn, as well as the tobacco, are all + American tropical or subtropical plants, and must have been + transmitted from tribe to tribe, from more southern climates. The + Indian traditions would seem to indicate this. "They have a + tradition," says Roger Williams, "that the Crow brought them at first + an _Indian_ Graine of Corne in one Eare, and an _Indian_ or _French_ + Beane in another, from the Great God _Kautantouwit's_ field in the + Southwest from whence they hold came all their Corne and Beanes."-- + _Key to the Language of America_, London, 1643, Narragansett Club ed., + p. 144. + + Seventy years before Champlain, Jacques Cartier had found nearly the + same vegetables cultivated by the Indians in the valley of the + St. Lawrence. He says: "They digge their grounds with certaine peeces + of wood, as bigge as halfe a sword, on which ground groweth their + corne, which they call Ossici; it is as bigge as our small peason.... + They haue also great store of Muske-milions. Pompions, Gourds, + Cucumbers, Peason, and Beanes of euery colour, yet differing from + ours."--_Hakluyt_, Vol. II. p. 276. For a full history of these + plants, the reader is referred to the History of Plants, a learned and + elaborate work now in press, by Charles Pickering, M.D. of Boston. + +131. The latitude of Wood Island at the mouth of the Saco, where they were + at anchor, is 43° 27' 23". + +132. The site of this Indian fortification was a rocky bluff on the western + side of the river, now owned by Mr. John Ward, where from time to time + Indian relics have been found. The island at the mouth of the river, + which Champlain speaks of as a suitable location for a fortress, is + Ram Island, and is low and rocky, and about a hundred and fifty yards + in length. + +133. For Sunday read Tuesday.--_Vide Shurtless's Calendar_. + +134. This landing was probably near Wells Neck, and the meadows which they + saw were the salt marshes of Wells. + +135. The Red-wing Blackbird, _Ageloeus phoeniceus_, of lustrous black, with + the bend of the wing red. They are still abundant in the same + locality, and indeed across the whole continent to the Pacific + Ocean.--_Vide Cones's Key_, Boston, 1872, p. 156; _Baird's Report_, + Washington, 1858, Part II. p. 526. + +136. _Le Port aux Isles_. This Island Harbor is the present Cape Porpoise + Harbor. + +137. This harbor is Goose Fair Bay, from one to two miles north-east of + Cape Porpoise, in the middle of which are two large ledges, "the + dangerous reefs" to which Champlain refers. + +138. This was the common red currant of the gardens, _Ribes rubrum_, which + is a native of America. The fetid currant, _Ribes prostratum_, is also + indigenous to this country. It has a pale red fruit, which gives forth + a very disagreeable odor. Josselyn refers to the currant both in his + Voyages and in his Rarities. Tuckerman found it growing wild in the + White Mountains. + +139. The passenger pigeon, _Ectopistes migratorius_, formerly numerous in + New England. Commonly known as the wild pigeon. Wood says they fly in + flocks of millions of millions.--_New England Prospect_, 1634; Prince + Society ed., p. 31. + +140. Champlain's latitude is less inaccurate than usual. It is not possible + to determine the exact point at which he took it. But the latitude of + Cape Porpoise, according to the Coast Survey Charts, is 43° 21' 43". + +141. Cape Anne. + +142. The point at which Champlain first saw Cape Anne, and "isles assez + hautes," the Isles of Shoals, was east of Little Boar's Head, and + three miles from the shore. Nine years afterward, Captain John Smith + visited these islands, and denominated them on his map of New England + Smith's Isles. They began at a very early date to be called the Isles + of Shoals. "Smith's Isles are a heape together, none neere them, + against Accominticus."--_Smith's Description of New England_. Rouge's + map, 1778, has Isles of Shoals, _ou des Ecoles_. For a full + description and history of these islands, the reader is referred to + "The Isles of Shoals," by John S. Jenness, New York, 1875. + +143. Champlain has not been felicitous in his description of this bay. He + probably means to say that from the point where he then was, off + Little Boar's Head, to the point where it extends farthest into the + land, or to the west, it appeared to be about twelve miles, and that + the depth of the bay appeared to be six miles, and eight at the point + of greatest depth. As he did not explore the bay, it is obvious that + he intended to speak of it only as measured by the eye. No name has + been assigned to this expanse of water on our maps. It washes the + coast of Hampton, Salisbury, Newburyport, Ipswich, and Annisquam. It + might well be called Merrimac Bay, aster the name of the important + river that empties its waters into it, midway between its northern and + southern extremities. + +144. It is to be observed that, starting from Cape Porpoise Harbor on the + morning of the 15th of July, they sailed twelve leagues before the + sail of the night commenced. This would bring them, allowing for the + sinuosities of the shore, to a point between Little Boar's Head and + the Isles of Shoals. In this distance, they had passed the sandy + shores of Wells Beach and York Beach in Maine, and Foss's Beach and + Rye Beach in New Hampshire, and still saw the white Sands of Hampton + and Salisbury Beaches stretching far into the bay on their right. The + excellent harbor of Portsmouth, land-locked by numerous islands, had + been passed unobserved. A sail of eighteen nautical miles brought them + to their anchorage at the extreme point of Cape Anne. + +145. Straitsmouth, Thatcher, and Milk island. They were named by Captain + John Smith the "Three Turks' Heads," in memory of the three Turks' + heads cut off by him at the siege of Caniza, by which he acquired from + Sigismundus, prince of Transylvania, their effigies in his shield for + his arms.--_The true Travels, Adventures, and Observations of Captaine + John Smith_, London, 1629. + +146. What Champlain here calls "le Cap aux Isles," Island Cape, is Cape + Anne, called Cape Tragabigzanda by Captain John Smith, the name of his + mistress, to whom he was given when a prisoner among the Turks. The + name was changed by Prince Charles, afterward Charles I., to Cape + Anne, in honor of his mother, who was Anne of Denmark.--_Vide + Description of New England_ by Capt. John Smith, London, 1616. + +147. This was the bay west of a line drawn from Little Boar's Head to Cape + Anne, which may well be called Merrimac Bay. + +148. Massachusetts Bay. + +149. It is interesting to observe the agreement of the sign-writing of this + savage on the point of Cape Anne with the statement of the historian + Gookin, who in 1656 was superintendent of Indian affairs in + Massachusetts, and who wrote in 1674. He says: "Their chief sachem + held dominion over many other petty governours; as those of + Weechagaskas, Neponsitt, Punkapaog, Nonantam, Nashaway, and some of + the Nipmuck people, as far as Pokomtacuke, as the old men of + Massachusetts affirmed." Here we have the six tribes, represented by + the pebbles, recorded seventy years later as a tradition handed down + by the old men of the tribe. Champlain remarks further on, "I observed + in the bay all that the savages had described to me at Island Cape." + +150. This was the Merrimac with its shoals at the mouth, which they had + passed without observing, having sailed from the offing near Little + Boar's Head directly to the head of Cape Anne, during the darkness of + the previous night. + +151. The latitude of the Straitsmouth Island Light on the extreme point of + Cape Anne is 42° 39' 43". A little east of it, where they probably + anchored, there are now sixteen fathoms of water. + +152. Emmerson's Point, forming the eastern extremity of Cape Anne, twenty + or twenty-five feet high, fringed with a wall of bare rocks on the + sea. + +153. Thatcher's Island, near the point just mentioned. It is nearly half a + mile long and three hundred and fifty yards wide, and about fifty feet + high. + +154. It is not possible to determine with absolute certainty the place of + this anchorage. But as Champlain describes, at the end of this + chapter, what must have been Charles River coming from the country of + the Iroquois or the west, most likely as seen from his anchorage, + there can be little doubt that he anchored in Boston Harbor, near the + western limit of Noddle's Island, now known as East Boston. + +155. The fishermen and fur-traders had visited these coasts from a very + early period.--_Vide antea_, note 18. From them they obtained the axe, + a most important implement in their rude mode of life, and it was + occasionally found in use among tribes far in the interior. + + _La Cadie_. Carelessness or indifference in regard to the orthography + of names was general in the time of Champlain. The volumes written in + the vain attempt to settle the proper method of spelling the name of + Shakespeare, are the fruit of this indifference. La Cadie did not + escape this treatment. Champlain writes it Arcadie, Accadie, La Cadie, + Acadie, and L'Acadie; while Lescarbot uniformly, as far as we have + observed, La Cadie. We have also seen it written L'Arcadie and + L'Accadie, and in some, if not in all the preceding forms, with a + Latin termination in _ia_. It is deemed important to secure + uniformity, and to follow the French form in the translation of a + French work rather than the Latin. In this work, it is rendered LA + CADIE in all cases except in quotations. The history of the name + favors this form rather than any other. The commission or charter + given to De Monts by Henry IV. in 1603, a state paper or legal + document, drawn, we may suppose, with more than usual care, has La + Cadie, and repeats it four times without variation. It is a name of + Indian origin, as may be inferred by its appearing in composition in + such words as Passamacadie, Subenacadie, and Tracadie, plainly derived + from the language spoken by the Souriquois and Etechemins. Fifty-five + years before it was introduced into De Monts's commission, it appeared + written _Larcadia_ in Gastaldo's map of "Terra Nova del Bacalaos," in + the Italian translation of Ptolemy's Geography, by Pietro Andrea + Mattiolo, printed at Venice in 1548. The colophon bears date October, + 1547. This rare work is in the possession of Henry C. Murphy, LL.D., + to whom we are indebted for a very beautiful copy of the map. It + appeared again in 1561 on the map of Ruscelli, which was borrowed, as + well as the whole map, from the above work.--_Vide Ruscelli's map in + Dr. Kohl's Documentary History of Maine_, Maine Hist. Soc., Portland, + 1869, p. 233. On this map, Larcadia stands on the coast of Maine, in + the midst of the vast territory included in De Monts's grant, between + the degrees of forty and forty-six north latitude. It will be + observed, if we take away the Latin termination, that the + pronunciation of this word as it first appeared in 1547, would not + differ in _sound_ from La Cadie. It seems, therefore, very clear that + the name of the territory stretching along the coast of Maine, we know + not how far north or south, as it was caught from the lips of the + natives at some time anterior 1547, was best represented by La Cadie, + as pronounced by the French. Whether De Monts had obtained the name of + his American domain from those who had recently visited the coast and + had caught its sound from the natives, or whether he had taken it from + this ancient map, we must remain uninformed. Several writers have + ventured to interpret the word, and give us its original meaning. The + following definitions have been offered: 1. The land of dogs; 2. Our + village; 3. The fish called pollock; 4. Place; 5. Abundance. We do not + undertake to decide between the disagreeing doctors. But it is obvious + to remark that a rich field lies open ready for a noble harvest for + any young scholar who has a genius for philology, and who is prepared + to make a life work of the study and elucidation of the original + languages of North America. The laurels in this field are still to be + gathered. + +156. The islands in Boston Bay. + +157. This attempt to land was in Marshfield near the mouth of South River. + Not succeeding, they sailed forward a league, and anchored at Brant + Point, which they named the Cape of St. Louis. + +158. This purslane, _Portulaca oleracea_, still grows vigorously among the + Indian corn in New England, and is regarded with no more interest now + than in 1605. It is a tropical plant, and was introduced by the + Indians probably by accident with the seeds of tobacco or other + plants. + +159. Here at the end of the chapter Champlain seems to be reminded that he + had omitted to mention the river of which he had learned, and had + probably seen in the bay. This was Charles River. From the western + side of Noddle's Island, or East Boston, where they were probably at + anchor, it appeared at its confluence with the Mystic River to come + from the west, or the country of the Iroquois. By reference to + Champlain's large map of 1612, this river will be clearly identified + as Charles River, in connection with Boston Bay and its numerous + islands. On that map it is represented as a long river flowing from + the west. This description of the river by Champlain was probably from + personal observation. Had he obtained his information from the + Indians, they would not have told him that it was broad or that it + came from the west, for such are not the facts; but they would have + represented to him that it was small, winding in its course, and that + it came from the south. We infer, therefore, that he not only saw it + himself, but probably from the deck of the little French barque, as it + was riding at anchor in our harbor near East Boston, where Charles + River, augmented by the tide, flows into the harbor from the west, in + a strong, broad, deep current. They named it in honor of Pierre du + Guast, Sieur de Monts, the commander of this expedition. Champlain + writes the name "du Gas;" De Laet has "de Gua;" while Charlevoix + writes "du Guast." This latter orthography generally prevails. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +CONTINUATION OF THE DISCOVERIES ALONG THE COAST OF THE ALMOUCHIQUOIS, AND +WHAT WE OBSERVED IN DETAIL. + + +The next day we doubled Cap St. Louis, [160] so named by Sieur de Monts, a +land rather low, and in latitude 42° 45'. [161] The same day we sailed two +leagues along a sandy coast, as we passed along which we saw a great many +cabins and gardens. The wind being contrary, we entered a little bay to +await a time favorable for proceeding. There came to us two or three +canoes, which had just been fishing for cod and other fish, which are found +there in large numbers. These they catch with hooks made of a piece of +wood, to which they attach a bone in the shape of a spear, and fasten it +very securely. The whole has a fang-shape, and the line attached to it is +made out of the bark of a tree. They gave me one of their hooks, which I +took as a curiosity. In it the bone was fastened on by hemp, like that in +France, as it seemed to me, and they told me that they gathered this plant +without being obliged to cultivate it; and indicated that it grew to the +height of four or five feet. [162] This canoe went back on shore to give +notice to their fellow inhabitants, who caused columns of smoke to arise on +our account We saw eighteen or twenty savages, who came to the shore and +began to dance. Our canoe landed in order to give them some bagatelles, at +which they were greatly pleased. Some of them came to us and begged us to +go to their river. We weighed anchor to do so, but were unable to enter on +account of the small amount of water, it being low tide, and were +accordingly obliged to anchor at the mouth. I went ashore, where I saw many +others, who received us very cordially. I made also an examination of the +river, but saw only an arm of water extending a short distance inland, +where the land is only in part cleared up. Running into this is merely a +brook not deep enough for boats except at full tide. The circuit of the bay +is about a league. On one side of the entrance to this bay there is a point +which is almost an island, covered with wood, principally pines, and +adjoins sand-banks, which are very extensive. On the other side, the land +is high. There are two islets in this bay, which are not seen until one +has entered, and around which it is almost entirely dry at low tide. This +place is very conspicuous from the sea, for the coast is very low, +excepting the cape at the entrance to the bay. We named it the Port du Cap +St. Louis, [163] distant two leagues from the above cape, and ten from the +Island Cape. It is in about the same latitude as Cap St. Louis. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +PORT ST. LOUIS. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. Indicates the place where vessels lie. +_B_. The channel. +_C_. Two islands. [Note: Clark's Island is now the sole representative of + the two figured by Champlain in 1605. The action of the waves has + either united the two, or swept one of them away. It was named after + Clark, the master's mate of the "May Flower," who was the first to + step on shore, when the party of Pilgrims, sent out from Cape Cod + Harbor to Select a habitation, landed on this island, and passed the + night of the 9th of December, O. S. 1620. _Vide_ Morton's Memorial, + 1669, Plymouth Ed. 1826. p. 35: Young's Chronicles, p. 160; Bradford's + His. Plym. Plantation, p. 87. This delineation removes all doubt as to + the missing island in Plymouth Harbor, and shows the incorrectness of + the theory as to its being Saquish Head, suggested in a note in + Young's Chronicles, p. 64. _Vide_ also Mourt's Relation, Dexter's ed., + note 197.] +_D_. Sandy downs. [Note: Saquish Neck] +_E_. Shoals. +_F_. Cabins where the savages till the ground. +_G_. Place where we beached our barque. +_H_. Land having the appearance of an island, covered with wood and + adjoining the sandy downs. [Note: Saquish Head, which seems to have + been somewhat changed since the time of Champlain. Compare Coast + Survey Chart of Plymouth Harbor, 1857.] +_I_. A high promontory which may be seen four or five leagues at + sea. [Note: Manomet Bluff.] + + * * * * * + +On the 19th of the month, we set out from this place. Coasting along in a +southerly direction, we sailed four or five leagues, and passed near a rock +on a level with the surface of the water. As we continued our course, we +saw some land which seemed to us to be islands, but as we came nearer we +found it to be the main land, lying to the north-north-west of us, and that +it was the cape of a large bay, [164] containing more than eighteen or +nineteen leagues in circuit, into which we had run so far that we had to +wear off on the other tack in order to double the cape which we had +seen. The latter we named Cap Blanc, [165] since it contained sands and +downs which had a white appearance. A favorable wind was of great +assistance to us here, for otherwise we should have been in danger of being +driven upon the coast. This bay is very safe, provided the land be not +approached nearer than a good league, there being no islands nor rocks +except that just mentioned, which is near a river that extends some +distance inland, which we named St. Suzanne du Cap Blanc, [166] whence +across to Cap St. Louis the distance is ten leagues. Cap Blanc is a point +of sand, which bends around towards the south some six leagues. This coast +is rather high, and consists of sand, which is very conspicuous as one +comes from the Sea. At a distance of some fifteen or eighteen leagues from +land, the depth of the water is thirty, forty, and fifty fathoms, but only +ten on nearing the shore, which is unobstructed. There is a large extent +of open country along the shore before reaching the woods, which are very +attractive and beautiful. We anchored off the coast, and saw some savages, +towards whom four of our company proceeded. Making their way upon a +sand-bank, they observed something like a bay, and cabins bordering it on +all sides. When they were about a league and a half from us, there came to +them a savage dancing all over, as they expressed it. He had come down from +the high shore, but turned about shortly after to inform his fellow +inhabitants of our arrival. + +The next day, the 20th of the month, we went to the place which our men had +seen, and which we found a very dangerous harbor in consequence of the +shoals and banks, where we saw breakers in all directions. It was almost +low tide when we entered, and there were only four feet of water in the +northern passage; at high tide, there are two fathoms. After we had +entered, we found the place very spacious, being perhaps three or four +leagues in circuit, entirely surrounded by little houses, around each one +of which there was as much land as the occupant needed for his support. A +small river enters here, which is very pretty, and in which at low tide +there are some three and a half feet of water. There are also two or three +brooks bordered by meadows. It would be a very fine place, if the harbor +were good. I took the altitude, and found the latitude 42°, and the +deflection of the magnetic needle 18° 40'. Many savages, men and women, +visited us, and ran up on all sides dancing. We named this place Port de +Mallebarre. [167] + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +MALLEBARRE. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. The two entrances to the harbor. +_B_. Sandy downs where the savages killed a sailor belonging to the barque + of Sieur de Monts. +_C_. Places in the harbor where the barque of Sieur de Monts was. +_D_. Spring on the shore of the harbor. +_E_. A river flowing into the harbor. +_F_. A brook. +_G_. A small river where quantities of fish are caught. +_H_. Sandy downs with low shrubs and many vines. +_I_. Island at the point of the downs. +_L_. Houses and dwelling-places of the savages that till the land. +_M_. Shoals and sand-banks at the entrance and inside of the harbor. +_O_. Sandy downs. +_P_. Sea-coast, +_q_. Barque of Sieur de Poutrincourt when he visited the place two years + after Sieur de Monts. +_R_. Landing of the party of Sieur de Poutrincourt. + +NOTES. A comparison of this map with the Coast Survey Charts will show very +great changes in this harbor since the days of Champlain. Not only has the +mouth of the bay receded towards the south, but this recession appears to +have left entirely dry much of the area which was flooded in 1605. Under +reference _q_, on the above map, it is intimated that De Poutrincourt's +visit was two years after that of De Monts. It was more than one, and was +the second year after, but not, strictly speaking, "two years after." + + * * * * * + +The next day, the 21st of the month, Sieur de Monts determined to go and +see their habitation. Nine or ten of us accompanied him with our arms; the +rest remained to guard the barque. We went about a league along the coast. +Before reaching their cabins, we entered a field planted with Indian corn +in the manner before described. The corn was in flower, and five and a half +feet high. There was some less advanced, which they plant later. We saw +many Brazilian beans, and many squashes of various sizes, very good for +eating; some tobacco, and roots which they cultivate, the latter having the +taste of an artichoke. The woods are filled with oaks, nut-trees, and +beautiful cypresses, [168] which are of a reddish color and have a very +pleasant odor. There were also several fields entirely uncultivated, the +land being allowed to remain fallow. When they wish to plant it, they set +fire to the weeds, and then work it over with their wooden spades. Their +cabins are round, and covered with heavy thatch made of reeds. In the roof +there is an opening of about a foot and a half, whence the smoke from the +fire passes out. We asked them if they had their permanent abode in this +place, and whether there was much snow. But we were unable to ascertain +this fully from them, not understanding their language, although they made +an attempt to inform us by signs, by taking some sand in their hands. +Spreading it out over the ground, and indicating that it was of the color +of our collars, and that it reached the depth of a foot. Others made signs +that there was less, and gave us to understand also that the harbor never +froze; but we were unable to ascertain whether the snow lasted long. I +conclude, however, that this region is of moderate temperature, and the +winter not severe. While we were there, there was a north-cast storm, which +lasted four days; the sky being so overcast that the sun hardly shone at +all. It was very cold, and we were obliged to put on our great-coats, which +we had entirely left off. Yet I think the cold was accidental, as it is +often experienced elsewhere out of season. + +On the 23d of July, four or five seamen having gone on shore with some +kettles to get fresh water, which was to be found in one of the sand-banks +a short distance from our barque, some of the savages, coveting them, +watched the time when our men went to the spring, and then seized one out +of the hands of a sailor, who was the first to dip, and who had no +weapons. One of his companions, starting to run after him, soon returned, +as he could not catch him, since he ran much faster than himself. The other +savages, of whom there were a large number, seeing our sailors running to +our barque, and at the same time shouting to us to fire at them, took to +flight. At the time there were some of them in our barque, who threw +themselves into the sea, only one of whom we were able to seize. Those on +the land who had taken to flight, seeing them swimming, returned straight +to the sailor from whom they had taken away the kettle, hurled several +arrows at him from behind, and brought him down. Seeing this, they ran at +once to him, and despatched him with their knives. Meanwhile, haste was +made to go on shore, and muskets were fired from our barque: mine, bursting +in my hands, came near killing me. The savages, hearing this discharge of +fire-arms, took to flight, and with redoubled speed when they saw that we +had landed, for they were afraid when they saw us running after them. There +was no likelihood of our catching them, for they are as swift as horses. +We brought in the murdered man, and he was buried some hours later. +Meanwhile, we kept the prisoner bound by the feet and hands on board of our +barque, fearing that he might escape. But Sieur de Monts resolved to let +him go, being persuaded that he was not to blame, and that he had no +previous knowledge of what had transpired, as also those who, at the time, +were in and about our barque. Some hours later there came some savages to +us, to excuse themselves, indicating by signs and demonstrations that it +was not they who had committed this malicious act, but others farther off +in the interior. We did not wish to harm them, although it was in our power +to avenge ourselves. + +All these savages from the Island Cape wear neither robes nor furs, except +very rarely: moreover, their robes are made of grasses and hemp, scarcely +covering the body, and coming down only to their thighs. They have only the +sexual parts concealed with a small piece of leather; so likewise the +women, with whom it comes down a little lower behind than with the men, all +the rest of the body being naked. Whenever the women came to see us, they +wore robes which were open in front. The men cut off the hair on the top of +the head like those at the river Choüacoet. I saw, among other things, a +girl with her hair very neatly dressed, with a skin colored red, and +bordered on the upper part with little shell-beads. A part of her hair +hung down behind, the rest being braided in various ways. These people +paint the face red, black, and yellow. They have scarcely any beard, and +tear it out as fast as it grows. Their bodies are well-proportioned. I +cannot tell what government they have, but I think that in this respect +they resemble their neighbors, who have none at all. They know not how to +worship or pray; yet, like the other savages, they have some superstitions, +which I shall describe in their place. As for weapons, they have only +pikes, clubs, bows and arrows. It would seem from their appearance that +they have a good disposition, better than those of the north, but they are +all in fact of no great worth. Even a slight intercourse with them gives +you at once a knowledge of them. They are great thieves and, if they cannot +lay hold of any thing with their hands, they try to do so with their feet, +as we have oftentimes learned by experience. I am of opinion that, if they +had any thing to exchange with us, they would not give themselves to +thieving. They bartered away to us their bows, arrows, and quivers, for +pins and buttons; and if they had had any thing else better they would have +done the same with it. It is necessary to be on one's guard against this +people, and live in a state of distrust of them, yet without letting them +perceive it. They gave us a large quantity of tobacco, which they dry and +then reduce to powder. [169] When they eat Indian corn, they boil it in +earthen pots, which they make in a way different from ours. [170]. They +bray it also in wooden mortars and reduce it to flour, of which they then +make cakes, like the Indians of Peru. + +In this place and along the whole coast from Quinibequy, there are a great +many _siguenocs_, [171] which is a fish with a shell on its back like the +tortoise, yet different, there being in the middle a row of little +prickles, of the color of a dead leaf, like the rest of the fish. At the +end of this shell, there is another still smaller, bordered by very sharp +points. The length of the tail-varies according to their size. With the end +of it, these people point their arrows, and it contains also a row of +prickles like the large shell in which are the eyes. There are eight small +feet like those of the crab, and two behind longer and flatter, which they +use in swimming. There are also in front two other very small ones with +which they eat. When walking, all the feet are concealed excepting the two +hindermost which are slightly visible. Under the small shell there are +membranes which swell up, and beat like the throat of a frog, and rest upon +each other like the folds of a waistcoat. The largest specimen of this fish +that I saw was a foot broad, and a foot and a half long. + +We saw also a sea-bird [172] with a black beak, the upper part slightly +aquiline, four inches long and in the form of a lancet; namely, the lower +part representing the handle and the upper the blade, which is thin, sharp +on both sides, and shorter by a third than the other, which circumference +is a matter of astonishment to many persons, who cannot comprehend how it +is possible for this bird to eat with such a beak. It is of the size of a +pigeon, the wings being very long in proportion to the body, the tail +short, as also the legs, which are red; the feet being small and flat. The +plumage on the upper part is gray-brown, and on the under part pure white. +They go always in flocks along the sea-shore, like the pigeons with us. + +The savages, along all these coasts where we have been, say that other +birds, which are very large, come along when their corn is ripe. They +imitated for us their cry, which resembles that of the turkey. They showed +us their feathers in several places, with which they feather their arrows, +and which they put on their heads for decoration; and also a kind of hair +which they have under the throat like those we have in France, and they say +that a red crest falls over upon the beak. According to their description, +they are as large as a bustard, which is a kind of goose, having the neck +longer and twice as large as those with us. All these indications led us to +conclude that they were turkeys. [173] We should have been very glad to +see some of these birds, as well as their feathers, for the sake of greater +certainty. Before seeing their feathers, and the little bunch of hair which +they have under the throat, and hearing their cry imitated, I should have +thought that they were certain birds like turkeys, which are found in some +places in Peru, along the sea-shore, eating carrion and other dead things +like crows. But these are not so large; nor do they have so long a bill, or +a cry like that of real turkeys; nor are they good to eat like those which +the Indians say come in flocks in summer, and at the beginning of winter go +away to warmer countries, their natural dwelling-place. + +ENDNOTES: + +160. It will be observed that, after doubling this cape, they sailed two + leagues, and then entered Plymouth Harbor, and consequently this cape + must have been what is now known as Brant Point. + +161. The latitude is 42° 5'. + +162. This was plainly our Indian hemp, _Asclepias incarnata_. "The fibres + of the bark are strong, and capable of being wrought into a fine soft + thread; but it is very difficult to separate the bark from the stalk. + It is said to have been used by the Indians for bow-strings."--_Vide + Cutler in Memoirs of the American Academy_, Vol. I. p. 424. It is the + Swamp Milkweed of Gray, and grows in wet grounds. One variety is + common in New England. The Pilgrims found at Plymouth "an excellent + strong kind of Flaxe and Hempe"--_Vide Mourt's Relation_, Dexter's + ed. p. 62. + +163. _Port du Cap St. Louis_. From the plain, the map in his edition of + 1613, drawing of this Harbor left by Champlain, and also that of the + edition of 1632, it is plain that the "Port du Cap St. Louis" is + Plymouth Harbor, where anchored the "Mayflower" a little more than + fifteen years later than this, freighted with the first permanent + English colony established in New England, commonly known as the + Pilgrims. The Indian name of the harbor, according to Captain John + Smith, who visited it in 1614. was Accomack. He gave it, by direction + of Prince Charles, the name of Plymouth. More recent investigations + point to this harbor as the one visited by Martin Pring in 1603.-- + _Vide Paper by the Rev Benj. F. De Costa, before the New England + His. Gen. Society_, Nov. 7, 1877, New England His. and Gen. Register, + Vol. XXXII. p. 79. + + The interview of the French with the natives was brief, but courteous + and friendly on both sides. The English visits were interrupted by + more or less hostility. "When Pring was about ready to leave, the + Indians became hostile and set the woods on fire, and he saw it burn + 'for a mile space.'"--_De Costa_. A skirmish of some seriousness + occurred with Smith's party. "After much kindnesse upon a small + occasion, wee fought also with fortie or fiftie of those: though some + were hurt, and some slaine, yet within an hour after they became + friends."--_Smith's New England_, Boston, ed. 1865, p. 45. + +164. Cape Cod Bay. + +165. They named it "le Cap Blanc," the White Cape, from its white + appearance, while Bartholomew Gosnold, three years before, had named + it Cape Cod from the multitude of codfish near its shores. Captain + John Smith called it Cape James. All the early navigators who passed + along our Atlantic coast seem to have seen the headland of Cape + Cod. It is well defined on Juan de la Cosa's map of 1500, although no + name is given to it. On Ribero's map of 1529 it is called _C. de + arenas_. On the map of Nic. Vallard de Dieppe of 1543, it is called + _C. de Croix_. + +166. Wellfleet Harbor. It may be observed that a little farther back + Champlain says that, having sailed along in a southerly direction four + or five leagues, they were at a place where there was a "rock on a + level with the surface of the water," and that they saw lying + north-north-west of them Cap Blanc, that is, Cape Cod; he now says + that the "rock" is near a river, which they named St. Suzanne du Cap + Blanc, and that from it to Cap St. Louis the distance is ten + leagues. Now, as the distance across to Brant Point, or Cap St. Louis, + from Wellfleet Harbor, is ten leagues, and as Cap Blanc or Cape Cod is + north-northwest of it, it is plain that Wellfleet Harbor or Herring + River, which flows into it, was the river which they named St. Suzanne + du Cap Blanc, and that the "rock on a level with the water" was one of + the several to be found near the entrance of Wellfleet Bay. It may + have been the noted Bay Rock or Blue Rock. + +167. _Port de Mallebarre_, Nauset Harbor, in latitude 41° 48'. By comparing + Champlain's map of the harbor, it will be seen that important changes + have taken place since 1605. The entrance has receded a mile or more + towards the south, and this has apparently changed its interior + channel, and the whole form of the bay. The name itself has drifted + away with the sands, and feebly clings to the extremity of Monomoy + Point at the heel of the Cape. + +168. Not strictly a cypress, but rather a juniper, the Savin, or red cedar, + _Juniparus Virginiana_, a tree of exclusively American origin; and + consequently it could not be truly characterized by any name then + known to Champlain. + +169. The method of preparing tobacco here for smoking was probably not + different from that of the Indian tribes in Canada. Among the Huron + antiquities in the Museum at the University Laval are pipes which were + found already filled with tobacco, so prepared as to resemble our + fine-cut tobacco.--_Vide Laverdière in loco_. + +170. The following description of the Indian pottery, and the method of its + manufacture by their women, as quoted by Laverdière from Sagard's + History of Canada, who wrote in 1636, will be interesting to the + antiquary, and will illustrate what Champlain means by "a way + different from ours:"-- + + "They are skilful in making good earthen pots, which they harden very + well on the hearth, and which are so strong that they do not, like our + own, break over the fire when having no water in them. But they cannot + sustain dampness nor cold water so long as our own, since they become + brittle and break at the least shock given them; otherwise they last + very well. The savages make them by taking some earth of the right + kind, which they clean and knead well in their hands, mixing with it, + on what principle I know not, a small quantity of grease. Then making + the mass into the shape of a ball, they make an indentation in the + middle of it with the fist, which they make continually larger by + striking repeatedly on the outside with a little wooden paddle as much + as is necessary to complete it. These vessels are of different sizes, + without feet or handles, completely round like a ball, excepting the + mouth, which projects a little." + +171. This crustacean, _Limulus polyphemus_, is still seen on the strands of + New England. They are found in great abundance in more southern + waters: on the shores of Long Island and New Jersey, they are + collected in boat-loads and made useful for fertilizing purposes. + Champlain has left a drawing of it on his large map. It is vulgarly + known as the king-crab, or horse-foot; to the latter it bears a + striking similarity. This very accurate description of Champlain was + copied by De Laet into his elaborate work "Novvs Orbis," published in + 1633, accompanied by an excellent wood-engraving. This species is + peculiar to our Atlantic waters, and naturally at that time attracted + the attention of Europeans, who had not seen it before. + +172. The Black skimmer or Cut-water, _Rhynchops nigra_. It appears to be + distinct from, but closely related to, the Terns. This bird is here + described with general accuracy. According to Dr. Coues, it belongs + more particularly to the South Atlantic and Gulf States, where it is + very abundant; it is frequent in the Middle States, and only + occasionally seen in New England. The wings are exceedingly long; they + fly in close flocks, moving simultaneously. They seem to feed as they + skim low over the water, the under-mandible grazing or cutting the + surface, and thus taking in their food.--_Vide Coues's Key to North + American Birds_, Boston, 1872, p. 324. + + Whether Champlain saw this bird as a "stray" on the shores of Cape + Cod, or whether it has since ceased to come in large numbers as far + north as formerly, offers an interesting inquiry for the + ornithologists. Specimens may be seen in the Museum of the Boston + Society of Natural History. + +173. Champlain was clearly correct in his conclusion. The wild Turkey, + _Meleagris gallopavo_, was not uncommon in New England at that + period. Wood and Josselyn and Higginson, all speak of it fully:-- + + "Of these, sometimes there will be forty, threescore and a hundred of + a flocke; sometimes more, and sometimes lesse; their feeding is + Acornes, Hawes, and Berries; some of them get a haunt to frequent our + _English_ corne: In winter, when the snow covers the ground, they + resort to the Sea shore to look for Shrimps, and such small Fishes at + low tides. Such as love Turkie hunting, most follow it in winter after + a new-falne Snow, when hee may followe them by their tracts; some have + killed ten or a dozen in half a day; if they can be found towards an + evening and watched where they peirch, if one come about ten or eleven + of the clock, he may shoote as often as he will, they will sit, + unlesse they be slenderly wounded. These Turkies remaine all the yeare + long, the price of a good Turkey cocke is foure shillings; and he is + well worth it for he may be in weight forty pound: a Hen, two + shillings."--_Wood's New England Prospect_, 1634, Prince Society ed., + Boston, p. 32. + + "The _Turkie_, who is blacker than ours; I haue heard several credible + persons affirm, they haue seen _Turkie Cocks_ that have weighed forty, + yea sixty pound; but out of my personal experimental knowledge I can + assure you, that I haue eaten my share of a _Turkie Cock_, that when + he was pull'd and garbidg'd, weighed thirty [9] pound; and I haue also + seen threescore broods of young _Turkies_ on the side of a marsh, + sunning themselves in a morning betimes, but this was thirty years + since, the _English_ and the _Indians_ having now destroyed the breed, + so that 'tis very rare to meet with a wild _Turkie_ in the Woods: But + some of the _English_ bring up great store of the wild kind, which + remain about their Houses as tame as ours in _England_."--_New + England's Rarities_, by John Josselyn, Gent., London, 1672, + Tuckerman's ed., pp. 41, 42. + + "Here are likewise abundance of Turkies often killed in the Woods, + farre greater then our English Turkies, and exceeding fat, sweet, and + fleshy, for here they haue aboundance of feeding all the yeere long, + as Strawberriees, in Summer at places are full of them and all manner + of Berries and Fruits."--_New England Plantation_, by Francis + Higginson, London, 1630. _Vide_ also _Bradford's Hist. Plym. + Plantation_, 1646, Deane's ed., Boston, 1856. p. 105. + + It appears to be the opinion among recent ornithologists that the + species of turkey, thus early found in New England, was the _Meleagris + Americana_, long since extirpated, and not identical with our + domesticated bird. Our domestic turkey is supposed to have originated + in the West Indies or in Mexico, and to have been transplanted as + tamed to other parts of this continent, and to Europe, and named by + Linnaeus. _Meleagris gallopavo_.--_Vide Report on the Zoology of + Pacific Railroad Routes_, by Baird, Washington, 1858. Vol. IX. Part + II. pp. 613-618; _Coues's Key_, Boston, 1872, pp. 231, 232. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +RETURN FROM THE DISCOVERIES ALONG THE COAST OF THE ALMOUCHIQUOIS. + + +We had spent more than five weeks in going over three degrees of latitude, +and our voyage was limited to six, since we had not taken provisions for a +longer time. In consequence of fogs and storms, we had not been able to go +farther than Mallebarre, where we waited several days for fair weather, in +order to sail. Finding ourselves accordingly pressed by the scantiness of +provisions, Sieur de Monts determined to return to the Island of St. Croix, +in order to find another place more favorable for our settlement, as we had +not been able to do on any of the coasts which we had explored on this +voyage. + +Accordingly, on the 25th of July, we set out from this harbor, in order to +make observations elsewhere. In going out, we came near being lost on the +bar at the entrance, from the mistake of our pilots, Cramolet and +Champdoré, masters of the barque, who had imperfectly marked out the +entrance of the channel on the southern side, where we were to go. Having +escaped this danger, we headed north-east [174] for six leagues, until we +reached Cap Blanc, sailing on from there to Island Cape, a distance of +fifteen leagues, with the same wind. Then we headed east-north-east sixteen +leagues, as far as Choüacoet, where we saw the savage chief, Marchin, [175] +whom we had expected to see at the Lake Quinibequy. He had the reputation +of being one of the valiant ones of his people. He had a fine appearance: +all his motions were dignified, savage as he was. Sieur de Monts gave him +many presents, with which he was greatly pleased; and, in return, Marchin +gave him a young Etechemin boy, whom he had captured in war, and whom we +took away with us; and thus we set out, mutually good friends. We headed +north-east a quarter east for fifteen leagues, as far as Quinibequy, where +we arrived on the 29th of the month, and where we were expecting to find a +savage, named Sasinou, of whom I spoke before. Thinking that he would come, +we waited some time for him, in order to recover from him an Etechemin +young man and girl, whom he was holding as prisoners. While waiting, there +came to us a captain called Anassou, who trafficked a little in furs, and +with whom we made an alliance. He told us that there was a ship, ten +leagues off the harbor, which was engaged in fishing, and that those on her +had killed five savages of this river, under cover of friendship. From his +description of the men on the vessel, we concluded that they were English, +and we named the island where they were La Nef; [176] for, at a distance, +it had the appearance of a ship. Finding that the above-mentioned Sasinou +did not come, we headed east-south-east, [176-1/2] for twenty leagues, to +Isle Haute, where we anchored for the night. + +On the next day, the 1st of August, we sailed east some twenty leagues to +Cap Corneille, [177] where we spent the night. On the 2d of the month, we +sailed north-east seven leagues to the mouth of the river St. Croix, on the +western shore. Having anchored between the two first islands, [178] Sieur +de Monts embarked in a canoe, at a distance of six leagues from the +settlement of St. Croix, where we arrived the next day with our barque. We +found there Sieur des Antons of St. Malo, who had come in one of the +vessels of Sieur de Monts, to bring provisions and also other supplies for +those who were to winter in this country. + +ENDNOTES: + +174. Champlain is in error as to the longitude of Mallebarre, or Nauset + harbor, from which they took their departure on the 25th of July, + 1605. This port is about 38' east of Island Cape, or Cape Anne, and + about 16' east of the western point of Cap Blanc, or Cape Cod; and, to + reach their destination, they must have sailed north-west, and not + north-east, as he erroneously states. + +175. They had failed to meet him at the lake in the Kennebec; namely, + Merrymeeting Bay.--_Vide antea_, p. 60. + +176. The island which they thus named _La Nef_, the Ship, was Monhegan, + about twenty-five nautical miles east from the mouth of the Kennebec, + a mile and a third long, with an elevation at its highest point of a + hundred and forty feet above the level of the sea, and in latitude 43º + 45' 52". Champlain's conjecture as to the nationality of the ship was + correct. It was the "Archangel," commanded by the celebrated explorer, + Captain George Weymouth, who under the patronage of the Earl of + Southampton came to explore our Atlantic coast in the spring of 1605, + for the purpose of selecting a site for an English colony. He anchored + near Monhegan on the 28th of May, N. S.; and, after spending nearly a + month in reconnoitring the islands and mainland in the vicinity, and + capturing five of the natives, he took his departure for England on + the 26th of June. On the 5th of July, just 9 days after Weymouth left + the coast, De Monts and Champlain entered with their little barque the + mouth of the Kennebec. They do not appear to have seen at that time + any of the natives at or about the mouth of the river; and it is not + unlikely that, on account of the seizure and, as they supposed, the + murder of their comrades by Weymouth, they had retired farther up the + river for greater safety. On the return, however, of the French from + Cape Cod, on the 29th of July, Anassou gave them, as stated in the + text, a friendly reception, and related the story of the seizure of + his friends. + + To prevent the interference of other nations, it was the policy of + Weymouth and his patron not to disclose the locality of the region he + had explored; and consequently Rosier, the narrator of the voyage, so + skilfully withheld whatever might clearly identify the place, and + couched his descriptions in such indefinite language, that there has + been and is now a great diversity of opinion on the subject among + local historians. It was the opinion of the Rev. Thomas Prince that + Weymouth explored the Kennebec, or Sagadahoc, and with him coincide + Mr. John McKeen and the Rev. Dr. Ballard, of Brunswick. The + Rev. Dr. Belknap, after satisfactory examinations, decided that it was + the Penobscot; and he is followed by Mr. William Willis, late + President of the Maine Historical Society. Mr. George Prince, of Bath, + has published an elaborate paper to prove that it was St. George's + River; and Mr. David Cushman, of Warren, coincides in this view. Other + writers, not entering into the discussion at length, accept one or + another of the theories above mentioned. It does not fall within the + purview of our present purpose to enter upon the discussion of this + subject. But the statement in the text, not referred to by any of the + above-mentioned writers, "that those on her had killed five savages + _of this river," que ceux de dedans avoient tué cinq sauuages d'icelle + rivière_, can hardly fail to have weight in the decision of this + interesting question. + + The chief Anassou reported that they were "killed," a natural + inference under the circumstances; but in fact they were carefully + concealed in the hold of the ship, and three of them, having been + transported to England and introduced into his family, imparted much + important information to Sir Ferdinando Gorges, whose distinguished + career was afterward so intimately connected with the progress of + American colonization. For the discussion touching the river explored + by Weymouth, _vide Prince's Annals_, 1736, _in loco; Belknap's + American Biography_, 1794, Vol. II., art. Weymouth; _Remarks on the + Voyage of George Waymouth_, by John McKeen, Col. Me. His. Society, + Vol. V. p. 309; _Comments on Waymouth's Voyage_, by William Willis, + idem, p. 344; _Voyage of Captain George Weymouth_, by George Prince, + Col. Me. His. Soc., Vol. VI. p. 293; _Weymouth's Voyage_, by David + Cushman, _idem_, p. 369; _George Weymouth and the Kennebec_, by the + Rev. Edward Ballard, D. D., Memorial Volume of the Popham Celebration, + Portland, 1863, p. 301. + +176-1/2. _We headed east south-east_. It is possible that, on leaving the + mouth of the Kennebec, they sailed for a short distance to the + south-east; but the general course was to the north-east. + +177. _Cap Corneille_, or Crow Cape, was apparently the point of land + advancing out between Machias and Little Machias Bays, including + perhaps Cross Island. De Monts and his party probably anchored and + passed the night in Machias Bay. The position of Cap Corneille may be + satisfactorily fixed by its distance and direction from the Grand + Manan, as seen on Champlain's map of 1612, to which the reader is + referred. + +178. This anchorage was between Campobello and Moose Island, on which is + situated the town of Eastport. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +THE DWELLING-PLACE ON THE ISLAND OF ST. CROIX TRANSFERRED TO PORT ROYAL, +AND THE REASON WHY. + + +Sieur De Monts determined to change his location, and make another +settlement, in order to avoid the severe cold and the bad winter which we +had had in the Island of St. Croix. As we had not, up to that time, found +any suitable harbor, and, in view of the short time we had for building +houses in which to establish ourselves, we fitted out two barques, and +loaded them with the frame-work taken from the houses of St. Croix, in +order to transport it to Port Royal, twenty-five leagues distant, where we +thought the climate was much more temperate and agreeable. Pont Gravé and I +set out for that place; and, having arrived, we looked for a site favorable +for our residence, under shelter from the north-west wind, which we +dreaded, having been very much harassed by it. + +After searching carefully in all directions, we found no place more +suitable and better situated than one slightly elevated, about which there +are some marshes and good springs of water. This place is opposite the +island at the mouth of the river Equille. [179] To the north of us about a +league, there is a range of mountains, [180] extending nearly ten leagues +in a north-east and south-west direction. The whole country is filled with +thick forests, as I mentioned above, except at a point a league and a half +up the river, where there are some oaks, although scattering, and many wild +vines, which one could easily remove and put the soil under cultivation, +notwithstanding it is light and sandy. We had almost resolved to build +there; but the consideration that we should have been too far up the harbor +and river led us to change our mind. + +Recognizing accordingly the site of our habitation as a good one, we began +to clear up the ground, which was full of trees, and to erect houses as +soon as possible. Each one was busy in this work. After every thing had +been arranged, and the majority of the dwellings built, Sieur de Monts +determined to return to France, in order to petition his Majesty to grant +him all that might be necessary for his undertaking. He had desired to +leave Sieur d'Orville to command in this place in his absence. But the +climatic malady, _mal de la terre_, with which he was afflicted would not +allow him to gratify the wish of Sieur de Monts. On this account, a +conference was held with Pont Gravé on the subject, to whom this charge was +offered, which he was happy to accept; and he finished what little of the +habitation remained to be built. I, at the same time, hoping to have an +opportunity to make some new explorations towards Florida, determined to +stay there also, of which Sieur de Monts approved. + +ENDNOTES: + +179. In the original, Champlain has written the name of this river in this + particular instance _Guille_, probably an abbreviation for _Anguille_, + the French name of the fish which we call the eel. Lescarbot says the + "river was named _L'Equille_ because the first fish taken therein was + an _equille_."--Vide antea, note 57. + +180. The elevation of this range varies from six hundred to seven hundred + feet. + + + + +CHAPTER XI + +WHAT TOOK PLACE AFTER THE DEPARTURE OF SIEUR DE MONTS, UNTIL, NO TIDINGS OF +WHAT HE HAD PROMISED BEING RECEIVED, WE DEPARTED FROM PORT ROYAL TO RETURN +TO FRANCE. + + +As soon as Sieur de Monts had departed, a portion of the forty or +forty-five who remained began to make gardens. I, also, for the sake of +occupying my time, made one, which was surrounded with ditches full of +water, in which I placed some fine trout, and into which flowed three +brooks of very fine running water, from which the greater part of our +settlement was supplied. I made also a little sluice-way towards the shore, +in order to draw off the water when I wished. This spot was entirely +surrounded by meadows, where I constructed a summer-house, with some fine +trees, as a resort for enjoying the fresh air. I made there, also, a little +reservoir for holding salt-water fish, which we took out as we wanted them. +I took especial pleasure in it, and planted there some seeds which turned +out well. But much work had to be laid out in preparation. We resorted +often to this place as a pastime; and it seemed as if the little birds +round about took pleasure in it, for they gathered there in large numbers, +warbling and chirping so pleasantly that I think I never heard the like. + +The plan of the settlement was ten fathoms long and eight wide, making the +distance round thirty-six. On the eastern side is a store-house, occupying +the width of it, and a very fine cellar from five to six feet deep. On the +northern side are the quarters of Sieur de Monts, handsomely finished. +About the back yard are the dwellings of the workmen. At a corner of the +western side is a platform, where four cannon were placed; and at the other +corner, towards the east, is a palisade shaped like a platform, as can be +seen from the accompanying illustration. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +L'ABITASION DU PORT ROYAL. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. Dwelling of the artisans. +_B_. Platform where the cannon were placed. +_C_. The store-house. +_D_. Dwelling of Sieur de Pont Gravé and Champlain. +_E_. The blacksmith's shop. +_F_. Palisade of pickets. +_G_. The bakery. +_H_. The kitchen. +_O_. Small house where the equipment of our barques was stored. This Sieur + de Poutrincourt afterwards had rebuilt, and Sieur Boulay dwelt there + when Sieur de Pont Gravé returned to France. +_P_. Gate to our habitation. +_Q_. The Cemetery. +_R_. The River. + +NOTES. The habitation of Port Royal was on the present site of the hamlet +of Lower Granville in Nova Scotia. _I_. Points to the garden-plots. _K_. +Takes the place of _Q_, which is wanting on the map, and marks the place of +the cemetery, where may be seen the crucifix, the death's-head, and +cross-bones. _L_. Takes the place of _R_, which is wanting, to indicate the +river. _M_. Indicates the moat on the north side of the dwelling. _N_. +Probably indicates the dwelling of the gentlemen, De Monts and others. + + * * * * * + +Some days after the buildings were completed, I went to the river St. John +to find the savage named Secondon, the same that conducted Prevert's party +to the copper mine, which I had already gone in search of with Sieur de +Monts, when we were at the Port of Mines, though without success. [181] +Having found him, I begged him to go there with us, which he very readily +consented to do, and proceeded to show it to us. We found there some +little pieces of copper of the thickness of a sou, and others still thicker +imbedded in grayish and red rocks. The miner accompanying us, whose name +was Master Jacques, a native of Sclavonia, a man very skilful in searching +for minerals, made the entire circuit of the hills to see if he could find +any gangue, [182] but without success. Yet he found, some steps from where +we had taken the pieces of copper before mentioned, something like a mine, +which, however, was far from being one. He said that, from the appearance +of the soil, it might prove to be good, if it were worked; and that it was +not probable that there could be pure copper on the surface of the earth, +without there being a large quantity of it underneath. The truth is that, +if the water did not cover the mines twice a day, and if they did not lie +in such hard rocks, something might be expected from them. + +After making this observation, we returned to our settlement, where we +found some of our company sick with the _mal de la terre_, but not so +seriously as at the Island of St. Croix; although, out of our number of +forty-five, twelve died, including the miner, and five were sick, who +recovered the following spring. Our surgeon, named Des Champs, from +Honfleur, skilful in his profession, opened some of the bodies, to see +whether he might be more successful in discovering the cause of the +maladies that our surgeons had been the year before. He found the parts of +the body affected in the same manner as those opened at the Island of +St. Croix, but could discover no means of curing them, any more than the +other surgeons. + +On the 20th of December, it began to snow, and some ice passed along before +our Settlement. The winter was not so sharp as the year before, nor the +snow so deep, or of so long duration. Among other incidents, the wind was +so violent on the 20th of February, 1605, [183] that it blew over a large +number of trees, roots and all, and broke off many others. It was a +remarkable sight. The rains were very frequent; which was the cause of the +mild winter in comparison with the past one, although it is only +twenty-five leagues from Port Royal to St. Croix. + +On the first day of March, Pont Gravé ordered a barque of seventeen or +eighteen tons to be fitted up, which was ready, on the 15th, in order to go +on a voyage of discovery along the coast of Florida. [184] With this view, +we set out on the 16th following, but were obliged to put in at an island +to the south of Manan, having gone that day eighteen leagues. We anchored +in a sandy cove, exposed to the sea and the south wind. [185] The latter +increased, during the night, to such an impetuosity that we could not stand +by our anchor, and were compelled, without choice, to go ashore, at the +mercy of God and the waves. The latter were so heavy and furious that while +we were attaching the buoy to the anchor, so as to cut the cable at the +hawse-hole, it did not give us time, but broke straightway of itself. The +wind and the sea cast us as the wave receded upon a little rock, and we +awaited only the moment to see our barque break up, and to save ourselves, +if possible, upon its fragments. In these desperate straits, after we had +received several waves, there came one so large and fortunate for us that +it carried us over the rock, and threw us on to a little sandy beach, which +insured us for this time from shipwreck. + +The barque being on shore, we began at once to unload what there was in +her, in order to ascertain where the damage was, which was not so great as +we expected. She was speedily repaired by the diligence of Champdoré, her +master. Having been put in order, she was reloaded; and we waited for fair +weather and until the fury of the sea should abate, which was not until the +end of four days, namely, the 21st of March, when we set out from this +miserable place, and proceeded to Port aux Coquilles, [186] seven or eight +leagues distant. The latter is at the mouth of the river St. Croix, where +there was a large quantity of snow. We stayed there until the 29th of the +month, in consequence of the fogs and contrary winds, which are usual at +this season, when Pont Gravé determined to put back to Port Royal, to see +in what condition our companions were, whom we had left there sick. Having +arrived there, Pont Gravé was attacked with illness, which delayed us until +the 8th of April. + +On the 9th of the month he embarked, although still indisposed, from his +desire to see the coast of Florida, and in the belief that a change of air +would restore his health. The same day we anchored and passed the night at +the mouth of the harbor, two leagues distant from our settlement. + +The next morning before day, Champdoré came to ask Pont Gravé if he wished +to have the anchor raised, who replied in the affirmative, if he deemed the +weather favorable for setting out. Upon this, Champdoré had the anchor +raised at once, and the sail spread to the wind, which was +north-north-east, according to his report. The weather was thick and rainy, +and the air full of fog, with indications of foul rather than fair weather. + +While going out of the mouth of the harbor, [187] we were suddenly carried +by the tide out of the passage, and, before perceiving them, were driven +upon the rocks on the east-north-east coast. [188] Pont Gravé and I, who +were asleep, were awaked by hearing the sailors shouting and exclaiming, +"We are lost!" which brought me quickly to my feet, to see what was the +matter. Pont Gravé was still ill, which prevented him from rising as +quickly as he wished. I was scarcely on deck, when the barque was thrown +upon the coast; and the wind, which was north, drove us upon a point. We +unfurled the mainsail, turned it to the wind, and hauled it up as high as +we could, that it might drive us up as far as possible on the rocks, for +fear that the reflux of the sea, which fortunately was falling, would draw +us in, when it would have been impossible to save ourselves. At the first +blow of our boat upon the rocks, the rudder broke, a part of the keel and +three or four planks were smashed, and some ribs stove in, which frightened +us, for our barque filled immediately; and all that we could do was to wait +until the sea fell, so that we might get ashore. For, otherwise, we were in +danger of our lives, in consequence of the swell, which was very high and +furious about us. The sea having fallen, we went on shore amid the storm, +when the barque was speedily unloaded, and we saved a large portion of the +provisions in her, with the help of the savage, Captain Secondon and his +companions, who came to us with their canoes, to carry to our habitation +what we had saved from our barque, which, all shattered as she was, went to +pieces at the return of the tide. But we, most happy at having saved our +lives, returned to our settlement with our poor savages, who stayed there a +large part of the winter; and we praised God for having rescued us from +this shipwreck, from which we had not expected to escape so easily. + +The loss of our barque caused us great regret, since we found ourselves, +through want of a vessel, deprived of the prospect of being able to +accomplish the voyage we had undertaken. And we were unable to build +another; for time was pressing, and although there was another barque on +the stocks, yet it would have required too long to get it ready, and we +could scarcely have made use of it before the return from France of the +vessels we were daily expecting. + +This was a great misfortune, and owing to the lack of foresight on the part +of the master, who was obstinate, but little acquainted with seamanship, +and trusting only his own head. He was a good carpenter, skilful in +building vessels, and careful in provisioning them with all necessaries, +but in no wise adapted to sailing them. + +Pont Gravé, having arrived at the settlement, received the evidence against +Champdoré, who was accused of having run the barque on shore with evil +intent. Upon such information, he was imprisoned and handcuffed, with the +intention of taking him to France and handing him over to Sieur de Monts, +to be treated as justice might direct. + +On the 15th of June, Pont Gravé, finding that the vessels did not return +from France, had the handcuffs taken off from Champdoré, that he might +finish the barque which was on the stocks, which service he discharged very +well. + +On the 16th of July, the time when we were to leave, in case the vessels +had not returned, as was provided in the commission which Sieur de Monts +had given to Pont Gravé, we set out from our settlement to go to Cape +Breton or to Gaspé in search of means of returning to France, since we had +received no intelligence from there. + +Two of our men remained, of their own accord, to take care of the +provisions which were left at the settlement, to each of whom Pont Gravé +promised fifty crowns in money, and fifty more which he agreed to estimate +their pay at when he should come to get them the following year. [189] + +There was a captain of the savages named Mabretou, [190] who promised to +take care of them, and that they should be treated as kindly as his own +children. We found him a friendly savage all the time we were there, +although he had the name of being the worst and most traitorous man of his +tribe. + +ENDNOTES: + +181. _Vide antea_, pp. 25, 26. + +182. _La gangue_. This is the technical word for the matrix, or substance + containing the ore of metals. + +183. For 1605, read 1606. + +184. Florida, as then known, extended from the peninsula indefinitely to + the north. + +185. Seal Cove, which makes up between the south-west end of the Grand + Manan and Wood Island, the latter being South of Manan and is plainly + the island referred to in the text. This cove is open to the South + wind and the sea in a storm. Wood Island has a sandy shore with + occasional rocks. + +186. _Port aux Coquilles_, the harbor of shells. This port was near the + northeastern extremity of Campobello Island, and was probably Head + Harbor, which affords a good harbor of refuge.--_Vide_ Champlain's Map + of 1612, reference 9. + +187. By "harbor" is here meant Annapolis Bay. This wreck of the barque took + place on the Granville side of Digby Strait, where the tides rise from + twenty-three to twenty-Seven feet. + +188. North-east. The text has _norouest_, clearly a misprint for _nordest_. + +189. These two men were M. La Taille and Miquelet, of whom Lescarbot speaks + in terms of enthusiastic praise for their patriotic courage in + voluntarily risking their lives for the good of New France. _Vide + Histoire Nouvelle France_, Paris, 1612, pp. 545, 546. + +190. _Mabretou_, by Lescarbot written Membertou. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +DEPARTURE FROM PORT ROYAL TO RETURN TO FRANCE.--MEETING RALLEAU AT CAPE +SABLE, WHICH CAUSED US TO TURN BACK. + + +On the 17th of the month, in accordance with the resolution we had formed, +we set out from the mouth of Port Royal with two barques, one of eighteen +tons, the other of seven or eight, with the view of pursuing the voyage to +Cape Breton or Canseau. We anchored in the strait of Long Island,[191] +where during the night our cable broke, and we came near being lost, owing +to the violent tides which strike upon several rocky points in and about +this place. But, through the diligent exertions of all, we were saved, and +escaped once more. + +On the 21st of the month there was a violent wind, which broke the irons of +our rudder between Long Island and Cape Fourchu, and reduced us to such +extremities that we were at a loss what to do. For the fury of the sea did +not permit us to land, since the breakers ran mountain high along the +coast, so that we resolved to perish in the sea rather than to land, hoping +that the wind and tempest would abate, so that, with the wind astern, we +might go ashore on some sandy beach. As each one thought by himself what +might be done for our preservation, a sailor said that a quantity of +cordage attached to the stern of our barque, and dragging in the water, +might serve in some measure to steer our vessel. But this was of no avail; +and we saw that, unless God should aid us by other means, this would not +preserve us from shipwreck. As we were thinking what could be done for our +safety, Champdoré, who had been again handcuffed, said to some of us that, +if Pont Gravé desired it, he would find means to steer our barque. This we +reported to Pont Gravé, who did not refuse this offer, and the rest of us +still less. He accordingly had his handcuffs taken off the second time, +and at once taking a rope, he cut it and fastened the rudder with it in +such a skilful manner that it would steer the ship as well as ever. In this +way, he made amends for the mistakes he had made leading to the loss of the +previous barque, and was discharged from his accusation through our +entreaties to Pont Gravé who, although Somewhat reluctantly, acceded to it. + +The same day we anchored near La Baye Courante, [192] two leagues from Cape +Fourchu, and there our barque was repaired. + +On the 23d of July, we proceeded near to Cape Sable. + +On the 24th of the month, at two o'clock in the afternoon, we perceived a +shallop, near Cormorant Island, coming from Cape Sable. Some thought it was +savages going away from Cape Breton or the Island of Canseau. Others said +it might be shallops sent from Canseau to get news of us. Finally, as we +approached nearer, we saw that they were Frenchmen, which delighted us +greatly. When it had almost reached us, we recognized Ralleau, the +Secretary of Sieur de Monts, which redoubled our joy. He informed us that +Sieur de Monts had despatched a vessel of a hundred and twenty tons, +commanded by Sieur de Poutrincourt, who had come with fifty men to act as +Lieutenant-General, and live in the country; that he had landed at Canseau, +whence the above-mentioned vessel had gone out to sea, in order, if +possible, to find us, while he, meanwhile, was proceeding along the coast +in a shallop, in order to meet us in case we should have set out, supposing +we had departed from Port Royal, as was in fact the case: in so doing, they +acted very wisely. All this intelligence caused us to turn back; and we +arrived at Port Royal on the 25th of the month, where we found the +above-mentioned vessel and Sieur de Poutrincourt, and were greatly +delighted to see realized what we had given up in despair. [193] He told us +that his delay had been caused by an accident which happened to the ship in +leaving the boom at Rochelle, where he had taken his departure, and that he +had been hindered by bad weather on his voyage. [194] + +The next day, Sieur de Poutrincourt proceeded to set forth his views as to +what should be done; and, in accordance with the opinion of all, he +resolved to stay at Port Royal this year, inasmuch as no discovery had been +made since the departure of Sieur de Monts, and the period of four months +before winter was not long enough to search out a site and construct +another settlement, especially in a large vessel, unlike a barque which +draws little water, searches everywhere, and finds places to one's mind for +effecting settlements. But he decided that, during this period, nothing +more should be done than to try to find some place better adapted for our +abode. [195] + +Thus deciding, Sieur de Poutrincourt despatched at once some laborers to +work on the land in a spot which he deemed suitable, up the river, a league +and a half from the settlement of Port Royal, and where we had thought of +making our abode. Here he ordered wheat, rye, hemp, and several other kinds +of seeds to be sown, in order to ascertain how they would flourish. [196] + +On the 22d of August, a small barque was seen approaching our settlement. +It was that of Des Antons, of St. Malo, who had come from Canseau, where +his vessel was engaged in fishing, to inform us that there were some +vessels about Cape Breton engaged in the fur-trade; and that, if we would +send our ship, we might capture them on the point of returning to +France. It was determined to do so as soon as some supplies, which were in +the ship, could be unloaded. [197] + +This being done. Pont Gravé embarked, together with his companions, who had +wintered with him at Port Royal, excepting Champdoré and Foulgeré de Vitré. +I also stayed with De Poutrincourt, in order, with God's help, to complete +the map of the coasts and countries which I had commenced. Every thing +being put in order in the settlement. Sieur de Poutrincourt ordered +provisions to be taken on board for our voyage along the coast of Florida. + +On the 29th of August, we set out from Port Royal, as did also Pont Gravé +and Des Antons, who were bound for Cape Breton and Canseau, to seize the +vessels which were engaging in the fur-trade, as I have before stated. +After getting out to sea, we were obliged to put back on account of bad +weather. But the large vessel kept on her course, and we soon lost sight of +her. + +ENDNOTES: + +191. Petit Passage, leading into St. Mary's Bay. + +192. _La Baye Courante_, the bay at the mouth of Argyl or Abuptic River, + sometimes called Lobster Bay.--_Vide Campbell's Yarmouth County_. + N.S., p. 13. The anchorage for the repair of the barque near this bay, + two leagues from Cape Fourchu, was probably near Pinckney Point, or it + may have been under the lee of one of the Tusquet Islands. + +193. Lescarbot, who with De Poutrincourt was in this vessel, the "Jonas," + gives a very elaborate account of their arrival and reception at Port + Royal. It seems that, at Canseau, Poutrincourt, supposing that the + colony at Port Royal, not receiving expected succors, had possibly + already embarked for France, as was in fact the case, had despatched a + small boat in charge of Ralleau to reconnoitre the coast, with the + hope of meeting them, if they had already embarked. The "Jonas" passed + them unobserved, perhaps while they were repairing their barque at + Baye Courante. As Ralleau did not join the "Jonas" till after their + arrival at Port Royal, Poutrincourt did not hear of the departure of + the colony till his arrival. Champlain's dates do not agree with those + of Lescarbot, and the latter is probably correct. According to + Lescarbot, Poutrincourt arrived on the 27th, and Pont Gravé with + Champlain on the 31st of July. _Vide His. Nou. France_, Paris, 1612, + pp. 544, 547. + +194. Lescarbot gives a graphic account of the accident which happened to + their vessel in the harbor of Rochelle, delaying them more than a + month: and the bad weather and the bad seamanship of Captain Foulques, + who commanded the "Jonas," which kept them at sea more than two months + and a half.--_Vide His. Nou. France_, Paris. 1612, p. 523, _et seq._ + +195. Before leaving France, Poutrincourt had received instructions from the + patentee, De Monts to seek for a good harbor and more genial climate + for the colony farther south than Mallebarre, as he was not satisfied + either with St. Croix or Port Royal for a permanent abode.--_Vide + Lescarbot's His. Nou. France_, Paris, 1612, p. 552. + +196. By reference to Champlain's drawing of Port Royal, it will be seen + that the place of this agricultural experiment was on the southern + side of Annapolis River, near the mouth of Alien River, and on the + identical soil where the village of Annapolis now stands. + +197. It appears that this fur-trader was one Boyer, of Rouen, who had been + delivered from prison at Rochelle by Poutrincourt's lenity, where he + had been incarcerated probably for the same offence. They did not + succeed in capturing him at Canseau.--_Vide His. Nou. France_, par + Lescarbot, Paris, 1612, p. 553. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +SIEUR DE POUTRINCOURT SETS OUT FROM PORT ROYAL TO MAKE DISCOVERIES.--ALL +THAT WAS SEEN, AND WHAT TOOK PLACE AS FAR AS MALLEBARRE. + + +On the 5th of September, we set out again from Port Royal. + +On the 7th, we reached the mouth of the river St. Croix, where we found a +large number of savages, among others Secondon and Messamouët. We came +near being lost there on a rocky islet, on account of Champdoré's usual +obstinacy. + +The next day we proceeded in a shallop to the Island of St. Croix, where +Sieur de Monts had wintered, to see if we could find any spikes of wheat +and other seeds which we had planted there. We found some wheat which had +fallen on the ground, and come up as finely as one could wish; also a large +number of garden vegetables, which also had come up fair and large. It gave +us great satisfaction to see that the soil there was good and fertile. + +After visiting the island, we returned to our barque, which was one of +eighteen tons, on the way catching a large number of mackerel, which are +abundant there at this season. It was decided to continue the voyage along +the coast, which was not a very well-considered conclusion, since we lost +much time in passing over again the discoveries made by Sieur de Monts as +far as the harbor of Mallebarre. It would have been much better, in my +opinion, to cross from where we were directly to Mallebarre, the route +being already known, and then use our time in exploring as far as the +fortieth degree, or still farther south, revisiting, upon our homeward +voyage, the entire coast at pleasure. + +After this decision, we took with us Secondon and Messamouët, who went as +far as Choüacoet in a shallop, where they wished to make an alliance with +the people of the country, by offering them some presents. + +On the 12th of September, we set out from the river St. Croix. + +On the 21st, we arrived at Choüacoet, where we saw Onemechin, chief of the +river, and Marchin, who had harvested their corn. We saw at the Island of +Bacchus [198] some grapes which were ripe and very good, and some others +not yet ripe, as fine as those in France; and I am sure that, if they were +cultivated, they would produce good wine. + +In this place. Sieur de Poutrincourt secured a prisoner that Onemechin had, +to whom Messamouët [199] made presents of kettles, hatchets, knives, and +other things. Onemechin reciprocated the same with Indian corn, squashes, +and Brazilian beans; which was not very satisfactory to Messamouët, who +went away very ill-disposed towards them for not properly recognizing his +presents, and with the intention of making war upon them in a short time. +For these nations give only in exchange for something in return, except to +those who have done them a special service, as by assisting them in their +wars. + +Continuing our course, we proceeded to the Island Cape, [200] where we +encountered rather bad weather and fogs, and saw little prospect of being +able to spend the night under shelter, since the locality was not favorable +for this. While we were thus in perplexity, it occurred to me that, while +coasting along with Sieur de Monts, I had noted on my map, at a distance of +a league from here, a place which seemed suitable for vessels, but which we +did not enter, because, when we passed it, the wind was favorable for +continuing on our course. This place we had already passed, which led me +to suggest to Sieur de Poutrincourt that we should stand in for a point in +sight, where the place in question was, which seemed to me favorable for +passing the night. We proceeded to anchor at the mouth, and went in the +next day. [201] + +Sieur de Poutrincourt landed with eight or ten of our company. We saw some +very fine grapes just ripe, Brazilian peas, [202] pumpkins, squashes, and +very good roots, which the savages cultivate, having a taste similar to +that of chards. [203] They made us presents of some of these, in exchange +for little trifles which we gave them. They had already finished their +harvest. We saw two hundred savages in this very pleasant place; and there +are here a large number [204] of very fine walnut-trees, [205] cypresses, +sassafras, oaks, ashes, and beeches. The chief of this place is named +Quiouhamenec, who came to see us with a neighbor of his, named Cohoüepech, +whom we entertained sumptuously. Onemechin, chief of Choüacoet, came also +to see us, to whom we gave a coat, which he, however, did not keep a long +time, but made a present of it to another, since he was uneasy in it, and +could not adapt himself to it. We saw also a savage here, who had so +wounded himself in the foot, and lost so much blood, that he fell down in a +swoon. Many others surrounded him, and sang some time before touching him. +Afterwards, they made some motions with their feet and hands, shook his +head and breathed upon him, when he came to himself. Our surgeon dressed +his wounds, when he went off in good spirits. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +LE BEAU PORT. [Note: _Le Beau Port_ is Gloucester.] + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. Place where our barque was. +_B_. Meadows. +_C_. Small island. [Note: Ten-Pound Island. It is forty rods long and + thirty feet high. On it is a U. S. Light, fifty feet above the + sea-level.] +_D_. Rocky cape. + +_E_. Place where we had our shallop calked. [Note: This peninsula is now + called Rocky Neck. Its southern part and the causeway which connects + it with the main land are now thickly settled.] +_F_. Little rocky islet, very high on the coast. [Note: This is Salt + Island.] +_G_. Cabins of the savages and where they till the soil. +_H_. Little river where there are meadows. [Note: This is the small stream + that flows into Fresh-Water Cove.] +_I_. Brook. +_L_. Tongue of land covered with trees, including a large number of + sassafras, walnut-trees, and vines. [Note: This is now called Eastern + Point, is three quarters of a mile long, and about half a mile in its + greatest width. At its southern extremity is a U. S. Light, sixty feet + above the sea-level. The scattering rocks figured by Champlain on its + western shore are now known as Black Bess.] +_M_. Arm of the sea on the other side of the Island Cape. [Note: Squam + River, flowing into Annisquam Harbor.] +_N_. Little River. +_O_. Little brook coming from the meadows. +_P_. Another little brook where we did our washing. +_Q_. Troop of savages coming to surprise us. [Note: They were creeping + along the eastern bank of Smith's Cove.] +_R_. Sandy strand. [Note: The beach of South-East Harbor.] +_S_. Sea-coast. +_T_. Sieur de Poutrincourt in ambuscade with some seven or eight + arquebusiers. +_V_. Sieur de Champlain discovering the savages. + +NOTES: A comparison of his map with the Coast Survey Charts will exhibit +its surprising accuracy, especially when we make allowance for the fact +that it is merely a sketch executed without measurements, and with a very +brief visit to the locality. The projection or cape west of Ten-Pound +Island, including Stage Head, may be easily identified, as likewise Fort +Point directly north of the same island, as seen on our maps, but +north-west on that of Champlain, showing that his map is oriented with an +inclination to the west. The most obvious defect is the foreshortening of +the Inner Harbor, which requires much greater elongation. + + * * * * * + +The next day, as we were calking our shallop, Sieur de Poutrincourt in the +woods noticed a number of savages who were going, with the intention of +doing us some mischief, to a little stream, where a neck connects with the +main land, at which our party were doing their washing. As I was walking +along this neck, these savages noticed me; and, in order to put a good face +upon it, since they saw that I had discovered them thus seasonably, they +began to shout and dance, and then came towards me with their bows, arrows, +quivers, and other arms. And, inasmuch as there was a meadow between them +and myself, I made a sign to them to dance again. This they did in a +circle, putting all their arms in the middle. But they had hardly +commenced, when they observed Sieur de Poutrincourt in the wood with eight +musketeers, which frightened them. Yet they did not stop until they had +finished their dance, when they withdrew in all directions, fearing lest +some unpleasant turn might be served them. We said nothing to them, +however, and showed them only demonstrations of gladness. Then we returned +to launch our shallop, and take our departure. They entreated us to wait a +day, saying that more than two thousand of them would come to see us. But, +unable to lose any time, we were unwilling to stay here longer. I am of +opinion that their object was to surprise us. Some of the land was already +cleared up, and they were constantly making clearings. Their mode of doing +it is as follows: after cutting down the trees at the distance of three +feet from the ground, they burn the branches upon the trunk, and then plant +their corn between these stumps, in course of time tearing up also the +roots. There are likewise fine meadows here, capable of supporting a large +number of cattle. This harbor is very fine, containing water enough for +vessels, and affording a shelter from the weather behind the islands. It is +in latitude 43°, and we gave it the name of Le Beauport. [206] + +The last day of September we set out from Beauport, and, passing Cap +St. Louis, stood on our course all night for Cap Blanc. [207] In the +morning, an hour before daylight we found ourselves to the leeward of Cap +Blanc, in Baye Blanche, with eight feet of water, and at a distance of a +league from the shore. Here we anchored, in order not to approach too near +before daylight, and to see how the tide was. Meanwhile, we sent our +shallop to make soundings. Only eight feet of water were found, so that it +was necessary to determine before daylight what we would do. The water sank +as low as five feet, and our barque sometimes touched on the sand, yet +without any injury, for the water was calm, and we had not less than three +feet of water under us. Then the tide began to rise, which gave us +encouragement. + +When it was day, we saw a very low, sandy shore, off which we were, and +more to the leeward. A shallop was sent to make soundings in the direction +of land somewhat high, where we thought there would be deep water; and, in +fact, we found seven fathoms. Here we anchored, and at once got ready the +shallop, with nine or ten men to land and examine a place where we thought +there was a good harbor to shelter ourselves in, if the wind should +increase. An examination having been made, we entered in two, three, and +four fathoms of water. When we were inside, we found five and six. There +were many very good oysters here, which we had not seen before, and we +named the place Port aux Huistres. [208] It is in latitude 42°. Three +canoes of savages came out to us. On this day, the wind coming round in our +favor, we weighed anchor to go to Cap Blanc, distant from here five leagues +north a quarter north-east, and we doubled the cape. + +On the next day, the 2d of October, we arrived off Mallebarre, [209] where +we stayed some time on account of the bad weather. During this time, Sieur +de Poutrincourt, with the shallop, accompanied by twelve or fifteen men, +visited the harbor, where some hundred and fifty savages, singing and +dancing according to their custom, appeared before him. After seeing this +place, we returned to our vessel, and, the wind coming favorable, sailed +along the coast towards the south. + +ENDNOTES: + +198. Richmond Island.--_Vide antea_, note 123. The ripe grapes which he saw + were the Fox Grape. _Vitis labrusca_, which ripens in September. The + fruit is of a dark purple color, tough and musky. The Isabella, common + in our markets, is derived from it. It is not quite clear whether + those seen in an unripe state were another species or not. If they + were, they were the Frost Grape, _Vitis cardifolia_, which are found + in the northern parts of New England. The berry is small, black or + blue, having a bloom, highly acid, and ripens after frosts. This + island, so prolific in grapes, became afterward a centre of commercial + importance. On Josselyn's voyage of 1638, he says: "The Six and + twentieth day, Capt. _Thomas Cammock_ went aboard of a Barke of 300 + Tuns, laden with Island Wine, and but 7 men in her, and never a Gun, + bound for Richmond's Island, Set out by Mr. _Trelaney, of Plimouth_"-- + _Voyages_, 1675, Boston, Veazie's ed., 1865, p. 12. + +199. Messamouët was a chief from the Port de la Hève, and was accompanied + by Secondon, also a chief from the river St. John. They had come to + Saco to dispose of a quantity of goods which they had obtained from + the French fur-traders. Messamouët made an address on the occasion, in + which he stated that he had been in France, and had been entertained + at the house of Mons. de Grandmont, governor of Bavonne.--_Vide + His. Nou. France_, par Lescarbot, Paris, 1612, p. 559, _et seq._ + +200. Cape Anne. + +201. Gloucester Bay, formerly called Cape Anne Harbor, which, as we shall + see farther on, they named _Beauport_, the beautiful harbor. + +202. Brazilian peas. This should undoubtedly read Brazilian beans. _Pois du + Brésil_ is here used apparently by mistake for _febues de Brésil_.-- + Vide antea, note 127. + +203. Chards, a vegetable dill, composed of the footstocks and midrib of + artichokes, cardoons, or white beets. The "very good roots," _des + racines qui font bonnes_, were Jerusalem Artichokes, _Helianthus + tuberofus_, indigenous to the northern part of this continent. The + Italians had obtained it before Champlain's time, and named it + _Girasole_, their word for sunflower, of which the artichoke is a + species. This word, _girasole_, has been singularly corrupted in + England into _Jerusalem_; hence Jerusalem artichoke, now the common + name of this plant. We presume that there is no instance on record of + its earlier cultivation in New England than at Nauset in 1605, _vide + antea_, p. 82, and here at Gloucester in 1606. + +204. Under the word _noyers_, walnut-trees, Champlain may have comprehended + the hickories, _Carya alba_ and _porcina_, and perhaps the butternut, + _Juglans cinerea_, all of which might have been seen at Gloucester. It + is clear from his description that he saw at Saco the hickory, _Carya + porcina_, commonly known as the pig-nut or broom hickory. He probably + saw likewise the shag bark, _Carya alba_, as both are found growing + wild there even at the present day.--_Vide antea_, p. 67. Both the + butternut and the hickories are exclusively of American origin; and + there was no French name by which they could be more accurately + designated. _Noyer_ is applied in France to the tree which produces + the nut known in our markets as the English walnut. Josselyn figures + the hickory under the name of walnut.--_Vide New Eng. Rarities_, + Tuckerman's ed., p. 97. See also _Wood's New Eng. Prospect, 1634, + Prince Soc. ed., p. 18. + +205. The trees here mentioned are such probably as appeared to Champlain + especially valuable for timber or other practical uses. + + The cypress, _cyprès_, has been already referred to in note 168. It is + distinguished for its durability, its power of resisting the usual + agencies of decay, and is widely used for posts, and sleepers on the + track of railways, and to a limited extent for cabinet work, but less + now than in earlier times. William Wood says of it: "This wood is more + desired for ornament than substance, being of color red and white, + like Eugh, smelling as sweet as Iuniper; it is commonly used for + seeling of houses, and making of Chests, boxes and staves."--_Wood's + New Eng. Prospect_, 1634, Prince Soc. ed., p. 19. + + The sassafras, _Sassafras officinate_, is indigenous to this + continent, and has a spicy, aromatic flavor, especially the bark and + root. It was in great repute as a medicine for a long time after the + discovery of this country. Cargoes of it were often taken home by the + early voyagers for the European markets; and it is said to have sold + as high as fifty livres per pound. Dr. Jacob Bigelow says a work + entitled "Sassafrasologia" was written to celebrate its virtues; but + its properties are only those of warm aromatics. Josselyn describes + it, and adds that it does not "grow beyond Black Point eastward," + which is a few miles north-east of Old Orchard Beach, near Saco, in + Maine. It is met with now infrequently in New England; several + specimens, however, may be seen in the Granary Burial Ground in + Boston. + + Oaks, _chesnes_, of which several of the larger species may have been + seen: as, the white oak, _Quercus alba_; black oak, _Quercus + tinfloria_; Scarlet oak, _Quercus coccinea_; and red oak, _Quercus + rubra_. + + Ash-trees, _fresnes_, probably the white ash, _Fraxinus Americana_, + and not unlikely the black ash, _Fraxinus sambucifolia_, both valuable + as timber. + + Beech-trees, _hestres_, of which there is but a single Species, _Fagus + ferruginca_, the American beech, a handsome tree, of symmetrical + growth, and clean, smooth, ash-gray bark: the nut, of triangular + shape, is sweet and palatable. The wood is brittle, and used only for + a few purposes. + +206. Le Beauport. The latitude of Ten-Pound Island, near where the French + barque was anchored in the Harbor of Gloucester, is 42° 36' 5". + +207. The reader may be reminded that Cap St. Louis is Brant Point; Cap + Blanc is Cape Cod; and Baye Blanche is Cape Cod Bay. + +208. _Le Port aux Huistres_, Oyster Harbor. The reader will observe, by + looking back a few sentences in the narrative, that the French + coasters, after leaving Cap St. Louis, that is, Brant Point, had aimed + to double Cape Cod, and had directed their course, as they supposed, + to accomplish this purpose. Owing, however, to the strength of the + wind, or the darkness of the night, or the inattention of their pilot, + or all these together, they had passed to the leeward of the point + aimed at, and before morning found themselves near a harbor, which + they subsequently entered, in Cape Cod Bay. It is plain that this + port, which they named Oyster Harbor, was either that of Wellfleet or + Barnstable. The former, it will be remembered, Champlain, with De + Monts, entered the preceding year, 1605, and named it, or the river + that flows into it, St. Suzanne du Cap Blanc.--_Vide antea_, note + 166. It is obvious that Champlain could not have entered this harbor + the second time without recognizing it: and, if he had done so, he + would not have given to it a name entirely different from that which + he had given it the year before. He was too careful an observer to + fall into such an extraordinary mistake. We may conclude, therefore, + that the port in question was not Wellfleet, but Barnstable. This + conclusion is sustained by the conditions mentioned in the text. They + entered, on a flood-tide, in twelve, eighteen, and twenty-four feet of + water, and found thirty or thirty-six when they had passed into the + harbor. It could hardly be expected that any harbor among the shifting + sands of Cape Cod would remain precisely the same, as to depth of + water, after the lapse of two hundred and fifty years. Nevertheless, + the discrepancy is so slight in this case, that it would seem to be + accidental, rather than to arise from the solidity or fixedness of the + harbor-bed. The channel of Barnstable Harbor, according to the Coast + Survey Charts, varies in depth at low tide, for two miles outside of + Sandy Neck Point, from seven to ten feet for the first mile, and for + the next mile from ten feet to thirty-two on reaching Beach Point, + which may be considered the entrance of the bay. On passing the Point, + we have thirty-six and a half feet, and for a mile inward the depth + varies from twelve to twenty feet. Add a few feet for the rise of the + tide on which they entered, and the depth of the water in 1606 could + not have been very different from that of to-day. The "low sandy + coast" which they saw is well represented by Spring Hill Beach and + Sandy Neck; the "land somewhat high," by the range of hills in the + rear of Barnstable Harbor. The distance from the mouth of the harbor + to Wood End light, the nearest point on Cape Cod, does not vary more + than a league, and its direction is about that mentioned by + Champlain. The difference in latitude is not greater than usual. It is + never sufficiently exact for the identification of any locality. The + substantial agreement, in so many particulars with the narrative of + the author, renders it quite clear that the _Port aux Huistres_ was + Barnstable Harbor. They entered it on the morning of the 1st of + October, and appear to have left on the same day. Sandy Neck light, at + the entrance of the harbor, is in latitude 41° 43' 19". + +209. Nauset Harbor. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +CONTINUATION OF THE ABOVE DISCOVERIES, AND WHAT WAS OBSERVED OF PARTICULAR +IMPORTANCE. + + +When we were some six leagues from Mallebarre, we anchored near the coast, +the wind not being fair, along which we observed columns of smoke made by +the savages, which led us to determine to go to them, for which purpose the +shallop was made ready. But when near the coast, which is sandy, we could +not land, for the swell was too great. Seeing this, the savages launched a +canoe, and came out to us, eight or nine of them, singing and making signs +of their joy at seeing us, and they indicated to us that lower down there +was a harbor where we could put our barque in a place of security. Unable +to land, the shallop came back to the barque; and the savages, whom we had +treated civilly, returned to the shore. + +On the next day, the wind being favorable, we continued our course to the +north [210] five leagues, and hardly had we gone this distance, when we +found three and four fathoms of water at a distance of a league and a half +from the shore. On going a little farther, the depth suddenly diminished +to a fathom and a half and two fathoms, which alarmed us, since we saw the +sea breaking all around, but no passage by which we could retrace our +course, for the wind was directly contrary. + +Accordingly being shut in among the breakers and sand-banks, we had to go +at hap-hazard where there seemed to be the most water for our barque, which +was at most only four feet: we continued among these breakers until we +found as much as four feet and a half. Finally, we succeeded, by the grace +of God, in going over a sandy point running out nearly three leagues +seaward to the south-south-east, and a very dangerous place. [211] Doubling +this cape, which we named Cap Batturier, [212] which is twelve or thirteen +leagues from Mallebarre, [213] we anchored in two and a half fathoms of +water, since we saw ourselves surrounded on all sides by breakers and +shoals, except in some places where the sea was breaking to go to a place, +which, we concluded to be that which the savages had indicated. We also +thought there was a river there, where we could lie in security. + +When our shallop arrived there, our party landed and examined the place, +and, returning with a savage whom they brought off, they told us that we +could enter at full tide, which was resolved upon. We immediately weighed +anchor, and, under the guidance of the savage who piloted us, proceeded to +anchor at a roadstead before the harbor, in six fathoms of water and a good +bottom; [214] for we could not enter, as the night overtook us. + +On the next day, men were sent to set stakes at the end of a sand-bank +[215] at the mouth of the harbor, when, the tide rising, we entered in two +fathoms of water. When we had arrived, we praised God for being in a place +of safety. Our rudder had broken, which we had mended with ropes; but we +were afraid that, amid these shallows and strong tides, it would break +anew, and we should be lost. Within this harbor [216] there is only a +fathom of water, and two at full tide. On the east, there is a bay +extending back on the north some three leagues, [217] in which there is an +island and two other little bays which adorn the landscape, where there is +a considerable quantity of land cleared up, and many little hills, where +they cultivate corn and the various grains on which they live. There are, +also, very fine vines, many walnut-trees, oaks, cypresses, but only a few +pines. [218] All the inhabitants of this place are very fond of +agriculture, and provide themselves with Indian corn for the winter, which +they store in the following manner:-- + +They make trenches in the sand on the slope of the hills, some five to six +feet deep, more or less. Putting their corn and other grains into large +grass sacks, they throw them into these trenches, and cover them with sand +three or four feet above the surface of the earth, taking it out as their +needs require. In this way, it is preserved as well as it would be possible +to do in our granaries. [219] + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +_PORT FORTUNÉ_. + +_The figures indicate fathoms of water_. + +_A_. Pond of salt water. [Note: This is now called Oyster Pond.] +_B_. Cabins of the Savages and the lands they cultivate. +_C_. Meadows where there are two little brooks. +_C_. Meadows on the island, that are covered at every tide. [Note: The + letter _C_ appears twice in the index, but both are wanting on the + map. The former seems to point to the meadows on the upper left-hand + corner: the other should probably take the place of the _O_ on the + western part of the island above _F_.] +_D_. Small mountain ranges on the island, that are covered with trees, + vines, and plum-trees. [Note: This range of hills is a marked feature + of the island.] +_E_. Pond of fresh water, where there is plenty of game. [Note: This pond + is still distinguished for its game, and is leased by gentlemen in + Boston and held as a preserve.] +_F_. A kind of meadow on the island. [Note: This is known as Morris Island; + but the strait on the north of it has been filled up, and the island + is now a part of the main land.] +_G_. An island covered with wood in a great arm of the sea. [Note: This + island has been entirely obliterated, and the neck on the north has + likewise been swept away, and the bay now extends several leagues + farther north. The destruction of the island was completed in 1851, in + the gale that swept away Minot's Light. In 1847, it had an area of + thirteen acres and an elevation of twenty feet.--_Vide Harbor + Com. Report, 1873.] +_H_. A sort of pond of salt water, where there are many shell-fish, and, + among others, quantities of oysters. [Note: This is now called the + Mill Pond.] +_I_. Sandy downs on a narrow tongue of land. +_L_. Arm of the sea. +_M_. Roadstead before the harbor where we anchored. [Note: Chatham Roads, + or Old Stage Harbor.] +_N_. Entrance to the harbor. +_O_. The harbor and place where our barque was. +_P_. The cross we planted. +_Q_. Little brook. +_R_. Mountain which is seen at a great distance. [Note: A moderate + elevation, by no means a mountain in our sense of the word.] +_S_. Sea-shore. +_T_. Little river. +_V_. Way we went in their country among their dwellings: it is indicated by + small dots. [Note: The circuit here indicated is about four or five + miles. Another path is indicated in the same manner on the extreme + northern end of the map, which shows that their excursions had been + extensive.] +_X_. Banks and shoals. +_Y_. Small mountain seen in the interior. [Note: This is now called the + Great Chatham Hill, and is a conspicuous landmark.] +_Z_. Small brooks. +_9_. Spot near the cross where the savages killed our men. [Note: This is a + creek up which the tide sets. The other brook figured on the map a + little south of the cross has been artificially filled up, but the + marshes which it drained are still to be seen. These landmarks enable + us to fix upon the locality of the cross within a few feet.] + + * * * * * + +We saw in this place some five to six hundred savages, all naked except +their sexual parts, which they cover with a small piece of doe or +seal-skin. The women are also naked, and, like the men, cover theirs with +skins or leaves. They wear their hair carefully combed and twisted in +various ways, both men and women, after the manner of the savages of +Choüacoet. [220] Their bodies are well-proportioned, and their skin +olive-colored. They adorn themselves with feathers, beads of shell, and +other gewgaws, which they arrange very neatly in embroidery work. As +weapons, they have bows, arrows, and clubs. They are not so much great +hunters as good fishermen and tillers of the land. + +In regard to their police, government, and belief, we have been unable to +form a judgment; but I suppose that they are not different in this respect +from our savages, the Souriquois and Canadians, who worship neither the +moon nor the sun, nor any thing else, and pray no more than the beasts. +[221] There are, however, among them some persons, who, as they say, are in +concert with the devil, in whom they have great faith. They tell them all +that is to happen to them, but in so doing lie for the most part. Sometimes +they succeed in hitting the mark very well, and tell them things similar to +those which actually happen to them. For this reason, they have faith in +them, as if they were prophets; while they are only impostors who delude +them, as the Egyptians and Bohemians do the simple villagers. They have +chiefs, whom they obey in matters of war, but not otherwise, and who engage +in labor, and hold no higher rank than their companions. Each one has only +so much land as he needs for his support. + +Their dwellings are separate from each other, according to the land which +each one occupies. They are large, of a circular shape, and covered with +thatch made of grasses or the husks of Indian corn. [222] They are +furnished only with a bed or two, raised a foot from the ground, made of a +number of little pieces of wood pressed against each other, on which they +arrange a reed mat, after the Spanish style, which is a kind of matting two +or three fingers thick: on these they sleep. [223] They have a great many +fleas in summer, even in the fields. One day as we went out walking, we +were beset by so many of them that we were obliged to change our clothes. + +All the harbors, bays, and coasts from Choüacoet are filled with every +variety of fish, like those which we have before our habitation, and in +such abundance that I can confidently assert that there was not a day or +night when we did not see and hear pass by our barque more than a thousand +porpoises, which were chasing the smaller fry. There are also many +shell-fish of various sorts, principally oysters. Game birds are very +plenty. + +It would be an excellent place to erect buildings and lay the foundations +of a State, if the harbor were somewhat deeper and the entrance safer. +Before leaving the harbor, the rudder was repaired; and we had some bread +made from flour, which we had brought for our subsistence, in case our +biscuit should give out. Meanwhile, we sent the shallop with five or six +men and a savage to see whether a passage might be found more favorable for +our departure than that by which we had entered. + +After they had gone five or six leagues and were near the land, the savage +made his escape [224], since he was afraid of being taken to other savages +farther south, the enemies of his tribe, as he gave those to understand who +were in the shallop. The latter, upon their return, reported that, as far +as they had advanced, there were at least three fathoms of water, and that +farther on there were neither shallows nor reefs. + +We accordingly made haste to repair our barque, and make a supply of bread +for fifteen days. Meanwhile, Sieur de Poutrincourt, accompanied by ten or +twelve arquebusiers, visited all the neighboring country, which is very +fine, as I have said before, and where we saw here and there a large number +of little houses. + +Some eight or nine days after, while Sieur de Poutrincourt was walking out, +as he had previously done, [225] we observed the Savages taking down their +cabins and sending their women, children, provisions, and other necessaries +of life into the woods. This made us suspect some evil intention, and that +they purposed to attack those of our company who were working on shore, +where they stayed at night in order to guard that which could not be +embarked at evening except with much trouble. This proved to be true; for +they determined among themselves, after all their effects had been put in a +place of security, to come and surprise those on land, taking advantage of +them as much as possible, and to carry off all they had. But, if by chance +they should find them on their guard, they resolved to come with signs of +friendship, as they were wont to do, leaving behind their bows and arrows. + +Now, in view of what Sieur de Poutrincourt had seen, and the order which it +had been told him they observed when they wished to play some bad trick, +when we passed by some cabins, where there was a large number of women, we +gave them some bracelets and rings to keep them quiet and free from fear, +and to most of the old and distinguished men hatchets, knives, and other +things which they desired. This pleased them greatly, and they repaid it +all in dances, gambols, and harangues, which we did not understand at all. +We went wherever we chose without their having the assurance to say any +thing to us. It pleased us greatly to see them; show themselves so simple +in appearance. + +We returned very quietly to our barque, accompanied by some of the savages. +On the way, we met several small troops of them, who gradually gathered +together with their arms, and were greatly astonished to see us so far in +the interior, and did not suppose that we had just made a circuit of nearly +four or five leagues about their territory. Passing near us, they trembled +with fear, lest harm should be done them, as it was in our power to do. But +we did them none, although we knew their evil intentions. Having arrived +where our men were working, Sieur de Poutrincourt inquired if every thing +was in readiness to resist the designs of this rabble. + +He ordered every thing on shore to be embarked. This was done, except that +he who was making the bread stayed to finish a baking, and two others with +him. They were told that the savages had some evil intent, and that they +should make haste to embark the coming evening, since they carried their +plans into execution only at night, or at daybreak, which in their plots is +generally the hour for making a surprise. + +Evening having come, Sieur de Poutrincourt gave orders that the shallop +should be sent ashore to get the men who remained. This was done as soon as +the tide would permit, and those on shore were told that they must embark +for the reason assigned. This they refused in spite of the remonstrances +that were made setting forth the risks they ran and the disobedience to +their chief. They paid no attention to it, with the exception of a servant +of Sieur de Poutrincourt, who embarked. Two others disembarked from the +shallop and went to the three on shore, who had stayed to eat some cakes +made at the same time with the bread. + +But, as they were unwilling to do as they were told, the shallop returned +to the vessel. It was not mentioned to Sieur de Poutrincourt, who had +retired, thinking that all were on board. + +The next day, in the morning, the 15th of October, the savages did not fail +to come and see in what condition our men were, whom they found asleep, +except one, who was near the fire. When they saw them in this condition, +they came, to the number of four hundred, softly over a little hill, and +sent them such a volley of arrows that to rise up was death. Fleeing the +best they could towards our barque, shouting, "Help! they are killing us!" +a part fell dead in the water; the others were all pierced with arrows, and +one died in consequence a short time after. The savages made a desperate +noise with roarings, which it was terrible to hear. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +THE ATTACK AT PORT FORTUNE. + +The figures indicate fathoms of water. + +_A_. Place where the French were making bread. +_B_. The savages surprising the French, and shooting their arrows at them. +_C_. French burned by the Savages. +_D_. The French fleeing to the barque, completely covered with arrows. +_E_. Troops of savages burning the French whom they had killed. +_F_. Mountain bordering on the harbor. +_G_. Cabins of the savages. +_H_. French on the shore charging upon the Savages. +_I_. Savages routed by the French. +_L_. Shallop in which were the French. +_M_. Savages around our shallop, who were surprised by our men. +_N_. Barque of Sieur de Poutrincourt. +_O_. The harbor. +_P_. Small brook. +_Q_. French who fell dead in the water as they were trying to flee to the + barque. +_R_. Brook coming from certain marshes. +_S_. Woods under cover of which the savages came. + + * * * * * + +Upon the occurrence of this noise and that of our men, the sentinel, on our +vessel, exclaimed, "To arms! They are killing our men!" Consequently, each +one immediately seized his arms; and we embarked in the shallop, some +fifteen or sixteen of us, in order to go ashore. But, being unable to get +there on account of a sand-bank between us and the land, we threw ourselves +into the water, and waded from this bank to the shore, the distance of a +musket-shot. As soon as we were there, the savages, seeing us within arrow +range, fled into the interior. To pursue them was fruitless, for they are +marvellously swift. All that we could do was to carry away the dead bodies +and bury them near a cross, which had been set up the day before, and then +to go here and there to see if we could get sight of any of them. But it +was time wasted, therefore we came back. Three hours afterwards, they +returned to us on the sea-shore. We discharged at them several shots from +our little brass cannon; and, when they heard the noise, they crouched down +on the ground to avoid the fire. In mockery of us, they beat down the cross +and disinterred the dead, which displeased us greatly, and caused us to go +for them a second time; but they fled, as they had done before. We set up +again the cross, and reinterred the dead, whom they had thrown here and +there amid the heath, where they kindled a fire to burn them. We returned +without any result, as we had done before, well aware that there was +scarcely hope of avenging ourselves this time, and that we should have to +renew the undertaking when it should please God. + +On the 16th of the month, we set out from Port Fortuné, to which we had +given this name on account of the misfortune which happened to us there. +This place is in latitude 41° 20', and some twelve or thirteen leagues from +Mallebarre. [226] + +ENDNOTES: + +210. Clearly a mistake. Champlain here says they "continued their course + north," whereas, the whole context shows that they must have gone + south. + +211. "The sandy point" running out nearly three leagues was evidently the + island of Monomoy, or its representative, which at that time may have + been only a continuation of the main land. Champlain does not + delineate on his map an island, but a sand-bank nearly in the shape of + an isosceles triangle, which extends far to the south-east. Very great + changes have undoubtedly taken place on this part of the coast since + the visit of Champlain. The sand-bar figured by him has apparently + been swept from the south-east round to the south-west, and is perhaps + not very much changed in its general features except as to its + position. "We know from our studies of such shoals," says + Prof. Mitchell, Chief of Physical Hydrography, U. S. Coast Survey, + "that the relative order of banks and beaches remains about the same, + however the system as a whole may change its location."--_Mass. + Harbor Commissioners' Report_. 1873, p. 99. + +212. _Batturier_. This word is an adjective, formed with the proper + termination from the noun, _batture_, which means a bank upon which + the sea beats, reef or sand-bank. _Cap Batturier_ may therefore be + rendered sand-bank cape, or the cape of the sand-banks. _Batturier_ + does not appear in the dictionaries, and was doubtless coined by + Champlain himself, as he makes, farther on, the adjective _truitière_, + in the expression _la rivière truitière_, from the noun, _truite_. + +213. The distances here given appear to be greatly overstated. From Nauset + to the southern point of Monomoy, as it is to-day, the distance is not + more than six leagues. But, as the sea was rough, and they were + apparently much delayed, the distance might naturally enough be + overestimated. + +214. The anchorage was in Chatham Roads, or Old Stage Harbor. + +215. Harding's Beach Point. + +216. They were now in Stage Harbor, in Chatham, to which Champlain, farther + on gives the name of Port Fortuné. + +217. This is the narrow bay that stretches from Morris Island to the north, + parallel with the sea, separated from it only by a sand-bank, and now + reaching beyond Chatham into the town of Orleans. By comparing + Champlain's map of Port Fortuné with modern charts, it will be seen + that the "bay extending back on the north some three leagues" + terminated, in 1606, a little below Chatham Old Harbor. The island on + Champlain's map marked G. was a little above the harbor, but has been + entirely swept away, together with the neck north of it, represented + on Champlain's map as covered with trees. The bay now extends, as we + have stated above, into the town of Orleans. The island G, known in + modern times as Ram Island, disappeared in 1851, although it still + continued to figure on Walling's map of 1858: The two other little + bays mentioned in the text scarcely appear on Champlain's map; and he + may have inadvertently included in this bay the two that are farther + north, viz. Crow's Pond and Pleasant Bay, although they do not fall + within the limits of his map. + +218. _Vide antea_, notes 168, 204, 205. + +219. Indian corn, _Zea mays_, is a plant of American origin. Columbus saw + it among the natives of the West Indies, "a sort of grain they call + Maiz, which was well tasted, bak'd, or dry'd and made into flour."-- + _Vide History of the Life and Actions of Chris. Columbus by his Son + Ferdinand Columbus, Churchill's Voyages_, Vol. II. p. 510. + + It is now cultivated more or less extensively in nearly every part of + the world where the climate is suitable. Champlain is the first who + has left a record of the method of its cultivation in New England, + _vide antea_, p. 64, and of its preservation through the winter. The + Pilgrims, in 1620, found it deposited by the Indians in the ground + after the manner described in the text. Bradford says they found + "heaps of sand newly padled with their hands, which they, digging up, + found in them diverce faire Indean baskets filled with corne, and some + in eares, faire and good, of diverce collours, which seemed to them a + very goodly sight, haveing never seen any such before:"--_His. Plym. + Plantation_, p. 82. Squanto taught the English how to "set it, and + after how to dress and tend it"--_Idem_, p. 100. + + "The women," says Roger Williams, "set or plant, weede and hill, and + gather and barne all the corne and Fruites of the field," and of + drying the corn, he adds, "which they doe carefully upon heapes and + Mats many dayes, they barne it up, covering it up with Mats at night, + and opening when the Sun is hot" + + The following are testimonies as to the use made by the natives of the + Indian corn as food:-- + + "They brought with them in a thing like a Bow-case, which the + principall of them had about his wast, a little of their Corne + powdered to Powder, which put to a little water they eate."--_Mourts + Relation_, London, 1622, Dexter's ed., p. 88. + + "Giving us a kinde of bread called by them _Maizium_."--_Idem_, + p. 101. + + "They seldome or never make bread of their _Indian_ corne, but seeth + it whole like beanes, eating three or four cornes with a mouthfull of + fish or flesh, sometimes eating meate first and cornes after, filling + chinckes with their broth."--_Wood's New Eng. Prospect_, London, 1634. + Prince Society's ed., pp. 75, 76. + + "Nonkekich. _Parch'd meal_, which is a readie very wholesome, food, + which they eate with a little water hot or cold: ... With _spoonfull_ + of this _meale_ and a spoonfull of water from the _Brooke_, have I + made many a good dinner and supper."--_Roger Williams's Key_, London, + 1643, Trumbull's ed., pp. 39, 40. + + "Their food is generally boiled maize, or Indian corn, mixed with + kidney beans or Sometimes without.... Also they mix with the said + pottage several sorts of roots, as Jerusalem artichokes, and ground + nuts, and other roots, and pompions, and squashes, and also several + sorts of nuts or masts, as oak-acorns, chesnuts, walnuts: These husked + and dried, and powdered, they thicken their pottage therewith."-- + _Historical Collections of the Indians_, by Daniel Gookin, 1674, + Boston, 1792. p. 10. + +220. The character of the Indian dress, as here described, does not differ + widely from that of a later period.--_Vide Mourt's Relation_, 1622, + Dexter's ed., p. 135: _Roger Williams's Key_, 1643, Trumbull's ed., + p. 143, _et seq.; History of New England_, by Edward Johnson, 1654, + Poole's ed., pp. 224, 225. + + Champlain's observations were made in the autumn before the approach + of the winter frosts. + + Thomas Morton, writing in 1632, says that the mantle which the women + "use to cover their nakednesse with is much longer then that which the + men use; for as the men have one Deeres skinn, the women haue two soed + together at the full length, and it is so lardge that it trailes after + them, like a great Ladies trane, and in time," he sportively adds, "I + thinke they may have their Pages to beare them up."--_New Eng. + Canaan_, 1632, in Force's Tracts, Vol. II, p. 23. + +221. This conclusion harmonizes with the opinion of Thomas Morton, who says + that the natives of New England are "_sine fide, sine lege, et sine + rege_, and that they have no worship nor religion at all."--_New Eng. + Canaan_, 1632, in Force's Tracts, Vol. II. p. 21. + + Winslow was at first of the same opinion, but afterward saw cause for + changing his mind.--_Vide Winslow's Relation_, 1624, in Young's + Chronicles, P 355. See also _Roger Williams's Key_, Trumbull's ed., + p. 159. + +222. "Their houses, or wigwams," says Gookin, "are built with small poles + fixed in the ground, bent and fastened together with barks of trees, + oval or arborwise on the top. The best sort of their houses are + covered very neatly, tight, and warm with the bark of trees, stripped + from their bodies at such seasons when the sap is up; and made into + great flakes with pressures of weighty timbers, when they are green; + and so becoming dry, they will retain a form suitable for the use they + prepare them for. The meaner sort of wigwams are covered with mats + they make of a kind of bulrush, which are also indifferent tight and + warm, but not so good as the former."--_Vide Historical Collections_, + 1674, Boston, 1792, p. 9. + +223. The construction of the Indian couch, or bed, at a much later period + may be seen by the following excerpts: "So we desired to goe to rest: + he layd us on the bed with himselfe and his wife, they at one end and + we at the other, it being only plancks layd a foot from the ground, + and a thin mat upon them."--_Mourt's Relation_, London. 1622, Dexter's + ed., pp. 107, 108. "In their wigwams, they make a kind of couch or + mattresses, firm and strong, raised about a foot high from the earth; + first covered with boards that they split out of trees; and upon the + boards they spread mats generally, and sometimes bear skins and deer + skins. These are large enough for three or four persons to lodge upon: + and one may either draw nearer or keep at a more distance from the + heat of the fire, as they please; for their mattresses are six or + eight feet broad."--_Gookin's Historical Collections_, 1674, Boston, + 1792, p. 10. + +224. This exploration appears to have extended about as far as Point + Gammon, where, being "near the land," their Indian guide left them, as + stated in the text. + +225. On the map of Port Fortuné, or Chatham, the course of one of these + excursions is marked by a dotted line, to which the reader is + referred.--_Vide_ notes on the map of Port Fortuné. + +226. _Port Fortuné_, perhaps here used, to signify the port of chance or + hazard; referring particularly to the dangers they encountered in + passing round Monomoy to reach it. The latitude of Stage Harbor in + Chatham is 41° 40'. The distance from Mallebarre or Nauset to Port + Fortuné, or Stage Harbor, by water round the Southern point of Monomoy + is at the present time about nine leagues. The distance may possibly + have been greater in 1606, or Champlain may have increased the + distance by giving a wide berth to Monomoy in passing round it. + + + + +CHAPTER XV. + +THE INCLEMENCY OF THE WEATHER NOT PERMITTING US AT THAT TIME TO CONTINUE +OUR DISCOVERIES, WE RESOLVED TO RETURN TO OUR SETTLEMENT. WHAT HAPPENED TO +US UNTIL WE REACHED IT. + + +After having gone some six or seven leagues, we sighted an island, which we +named La Soupçonneuse, [227] because in the distance we had several times +thought it was not an island. Then the wind became contrary, which caused +us to put back to the place whence we had set out, where we stayed two or +three days, no savage during this time presenting himself to us. + +On the 20th, we set out anew and coasted along to the south-west nearly +twelve leagues, [228] where we passed near a river which is small and +difficult of access in consequence of the shoals and rocks at its mouth, +and which I called after my own name. [229] This coast is, so far as we +saw, low and sandy. The wind again grew contrary and very strong, which +caused us to put out to sea, as we were unable to advance on one tack or +the other; it, however, finally abated a little and grew favorable. But all +we could do was to return again to Port Fortuné, where the coast, though +low, is fine and good, yet difficult of access, there being no harbors, +many reefs, and shallow water for the distance of nearly two leagues from +land. The most that we found was seven or eight fathoms in some channels, +which, however, continued only a cable's length, when there were suddenly +only two or three fathoms; but one should not trust the water who has not +well examined the depth with the lead in hand. + +Some hours after we had returned to port, a son of Pont Gravé, named +Robert, lost a hand in firing a musket, which burst in several pieces, but +without injuring any one near him. + +Seeing now the wind continuing contrary, and being unable to put to sea, we +resolved meanwhile to get possession of some savages of this place, and, +taking them to our settlement, put them to grinding corn at the hand-mill, +as punishment for the deadly assault which they had committed on five or +six of our company. But it was very difficult to do this when we were +armed, since, if we went to them prepared to fight, they would turn and +flee into the woods, where they were not to be caught. It was necessary, +accordingly, to have recourse to artifice, and this is what we planned: +when they should come to seek friendship with us, to coax them by showing +them beads and other gewgaws, and assure them repeatedly of our good faith; +then to take the shallop well armed, and conduct on shore the most robust +and strong men we had, each one having a chain of beads and a fathom of +match on his arm; [230] and there, while pretending to smoke with them +(each one having an end of his match lighted so as not to excite suspicion, +it being customary to have fire at the end of a cord in order to light the +tobacco), coax them with pleasing words so as to draw them into the +shallop; and, if they should be unwilling to enter, each one approaching +should choose his man, and, putting the beads about his neck, should at the +same time put the rope on him to draw him by force. But, if they should be +too boisterous, and it should not be possible to succeed, they should be +stabbed, the rope being firmly held; and, if by chance any of them should +get away, there should be men on land to charge upon them with swords. +Meanwhile, the little cannon on our barque were to be kept ready to fire +upon their companions in case they should come to assist them, under cover +of which firearms the shallop could withdraw in security. The plan +above-mentioned was well carried out as it had been arranged. + +Some days after these events had transpired, there came savages by threes +and fours to the shore, making signs to us to go to them. But we saw their +main body in ambuscade under a hillock behind some bushes, and I suppose +that they were only desirous of beguiling us into the shallop in order to +discharge a shower of arrows upon us, and then take to flight. +Nevertheless, Sieur de Poutrincourt did not hesitate to go to them with ten +of us, well equipped and determined to fight them, if occasion offered. We +landed at a place beyond their ambuscade, as we thought, and where they +could not surprise us. There three or four of us went ashore together with +Sieur de Poutrincourt: the others did not leave the shallop, in order to +protect it and be ready for an emergency. We ascended a knoll and went +about the woods to see if we could not discover more plainly the ambuscade. +When they saw us going so unconcernedly to them, they left and went to +other places, which we could not see, and of the four savages we saw only +two, who went away very slowly. As they withdrew, they made signs to us to +take our shallop to another place, thinking that it was not favorable for +the carrying out of their plan. And, when we also saw that they had no +desire to come to us, we re-embarked and went to the place they indicated, +which was the second ambuscade they had made, in their endeavor to draw us +unarmed to themselves by signs of friendship. But this we were not +permitted to do at that time, yet we approached very near them without +seeing this ambuscade, which we supposed was not far off. As our shallop +approached the shore, they took to flight, as also those in ambush, after +whom we fired some musket-shots, since we saw that their intention was only +to deceive us by flattery, in which they were disappointed; for we +recognized clearly what their purpose was, which had only mischief in view. +We retired to our barque after having done all we could. + +On the same day, Sieur de Poutrincourt resolved to return to our settlement +on account of four or five sick and wounded men, whose wounds were growing +worse through lack of salves, of which our surgeon, by a great mistake on +his part, had brought but a small provision, to the detriment of the sick +and our own discomfort, as the stench from their wounds was so great, in a +little vessel like our own, that one could scarcely endure it. Moreover, we +were afraid that they would generate disease. Also we had provisions only +for going eight or ten days farther, however much economy might be +practised; and we knew not whether the return would last as long as the +advance, which was nearly two months. + +At any rate, our resolution being formed, we withdrew, but with the +satisfaction that God had not left unpunished the misdeeds of these +barbarians. [231] We advanced no farther than to latitude 41° 30', which +was only half a degree farther than Sieur de Monts had gone on his voyage +of discovery. We set out accordingly from this harbor. [232] + +On the next day, we anchored near Mallebarre, where we remained until the +28th of the month, when we set sail. On that day the air was very cold, +and there was a little snow. We took a direct course for Norumbegue or +Isle Haute. Heading east-north-east, we were two days at sea without +seeing land, being kept back by bad weather. On the following night, we +sighted the islands, which are between Quinibequy and Norumbegue. [233] +The wind was so strong that we were obliged, to put to sea until daybreak; +but we went so far from land, although we used very little sail, that we +could not see it again until the next day, when we saw Isle Haute, of which +we were abreast. + +On the last day of October, between the Island of Monts Déserts and Cap +Corneille, [234] our rudder broke in several pieces, without our knowing +the reason. Each one expressed his opinion about it. On the following +night, with a fresh breeze, we came among a large number of islands and +rocks, whither the wind drove us; and we resolved to take refuge, if +possible, on the first land we should find. + +We were for some time at the mercy of the wind and sea, with only the +foresail set. But the worst of it was that the night was dark, and we did +not know where we were going; for our barque could not be steered at all, +although we did all that was possible, holding in our hands the sheets of +the foresail, which sometimes enabled us to steer it a little. We kept +continually sounding, to see if it were possible to find a bottom for +anchoring, and to prepare ourselves for what might happen. But we found +none. Finally, as we were going faster than we wished, it was recommended +to put an oar astern together with some men, so as to steer to an island +which we saw, in order to shelter ourselves from the wind. Two other oars +also were put over the sides in the after part of the barque, to assist +those who were steering, in order to make the vessel bear up on one tack +and the other. This device served us so well, that we headed where we +wished, and ran in behind the point of the island we had seen, anchoring in +twenty-one fathoms of water until daybreak, when we proposed to reconnoitre +our position and seek for a place to make another rudder. The wind abated. +At daybreak, we found ourselves near the Isles Rangées, [235] entirely +surrounded by breakers, and we praised God for having preserved us so +wonderfully amid so many perils. + +On the 1st of November, we went to a place which we deemed favorable for +beaching our vessel and repairing our helm. On this day, I landed, and saw +some ice two inches thick, it having frozen perhaps eight or ten days +before. I observed also that the temperature of the place differed very +much from that of Mallebarre and Port Fortuné; for the leaves of the trees +were not yet dead, and had not begun to fall when we set out, while here +they had all fallen, and it was much colder than at Port Fortuné. + +On the next day, as we were beaching our barque, a canoe came containing +Etechemin savages, who told the savage Secondon in our barque that +Iouaniscou, with his companions, had killed some other savages, and carried +off some women as prisoners, whom they had executed near the Island of +Monts Déserts. + +On the 9th of the month, we set out from near Cap Corneille, and anchored +the same day in the little passage [236] of Sainte Croix River. + +On the morning of the next day, we landed our savage with some supplies +which we gave him. He was well pleased and satisfied at having made this +voyage with us, and took away with him some heads of the savages that had +been killed at Port Fortuné. [237] The same day we anchored in a very +pretty cove [238] on the south of the Island of Manan. + +On the 12th of the month, we made sail; and, when under way, the shallop, +which we were towing astern, struck against our barque so violently and +roughly that it made an opening and stove in her upper works, and again in +the recoil broke the iron fastenings of our rudder. At first, we thought +that the first blow had stove in some planks in the lower part, which would +have sunk us; for the wind was so high that all we could do was to carry +our foresail. But finding that the damage was slight, and that there was no +danger, we managed with ropes to repair the rudder as well as we could, so +as to serve us to the end of our voyage. This was not until the 14th of +November, when, at the entrance to Port Royal, we came near being lost on a +point; but God delivered us from this danger as well as from many others to +which we had been exposed. [239] + + +ENDNOTES: + +227. _La Soupçonneuse_, the doubtful, Martha's Vineyard. Champlain and + Poutrincourt, in the little French barque, lying low on the water, + creeping along the shore from Chatham to Point Gammon, could hardly + fail to be doubtful whether Martha's Vineyard were an island or a part + of the main land. Lescarbot, speaking of it, says, _et fut appelée + l'Ile Douteuse_. + +228. Nearly twelve leagues in a southwesterly direction from their + anchorage at Stage Harbor in Chatham would bring them to Nobska Point, + at the entrance of the Vineyard Sound. This was the limit of + Champlain's explorations towards the south. + +229. "Called after my own name." viz. _Rivière de Champlain_.--_Vide_ map, + 1612. This river appears to be a tidal passage connecting the Vineyard + Sound and Buzzard's Bay, having Nouamesset and Uncatena Islands on the + south-west, and Nobska Point, Wood's Boll, and Long Neck on the + north-east. On our Coast Survey Charts, it is called Hadley River. Its + length is nearly two miles, in a winding course. The mouth of this + passage is full of boulders, and in a receding tide the current is + rough and boisterous, and would answer well to the description in the + text, as no other river does on the coast from Chatham to Wood's + Holl. On the small French barque, elevated but a little above the + surface of the water, its source in Buzzard's Bay could not be + discovered, especially if they passed round Nobska Point, under the + lee of which they probably obtained a view of the "shoals, and rocks" + which they saw at the mouth of the river. + +230. _A fathom of match on his arm_. This was a rope, made of the tow of + hemp or flax, loosely twisted, and prepared to retain the fire, so + that, when once lighted, it would burn till the whole was consumed. It + was employed in connection with the match-lock, the arm then in common + use. The wheel-lock followed in order of time, which was discharged by + means of a notched wheel of steel, so arranged that its friction, when + in motion, threw sparks of fire into the pan that contained the + powder. The snaphance was a slight improvement upon the wheel-lock. + The flint-lock followed, now half a century since superseded by the + percussion lock and cap. + +231. They did not capture any of the Indians, to be reduced to a species of + slavery, as they intended; but, as will appear further on, inhumanly + butchered several of them, which would seem to have been an act of + revenge rather than of punishment. The intercourse of the French with + the natives of Cape Cod was, on the whole, less satisfactory than that + with the northern tribes along the shores of Maine, New Brunswick, and + Nova Scotia. With the latter they had no hostile conflicts whatever, + although the Indians were sufficiently implacable and revengeful + towards their enemies. Those inhabiting the peninsula of Cape Cod, and + as far north as Cape Anne, were more suspicious, and had apparently + less clear conceptions of personal rights, especially the rights of + property. Might and right were to them identical. Whatever they + desired, they thought they had a right to have, if they had the power + or wit to obtain it. The French came in contact with only two of the + many subordinate tribes that were in possession of the peninsula; + viz., the Monomoyicks at Chatham, and the Nausets at Eastham. The + conflict in both instances grew out of an attempt on the part of the + natives to commit a petty theft. But it is quite possible that the + invasion of their territory by strangers, an unpardonable offence + among civilized people, may have created a feeling of hostility that + found a partial gratification in stealing their property; and, had not + this occasion offered, the stifled feeling of hostility may have + broken out in some other form. In general, they were not subsequently + unfriendly in their intercourse with the English. The Nausets were, + however, the same that sent a shower of arrows upon the Pilgrims in + 1620, at the place called by them the "First Encounter," and not more + than three miles from the spot where the same tribe, in 1605, had + attacked the French, and Slain one of De Monts's men. It must, + however, be said that, beside the invasion of their country, the + Pilgrims had, some days before, rifled the granaries of the natives + dwelling a few miles north of the Nausets, and taken away without + leave a generous quantity of their winter's supply of corn; and this + may have inspired them with a desire to be rid of visitors who helped + themselves to their provisions, the fruit of their summer's toil, + their dependence for the winter already upon them, with so little + ceremony and such unscrupulous selfishness; for such it must have + appeared to the Nausets in their savage and unenlightened state. It is + to be regretted that these excellent men, the Pilgrims, did not more + fully comprehend the moral character of their conduct in this + instance. They lost at the outset a golden opportunity for impressing + upon the minds of the natives the great practical principle enunciated + by our Lord, the foundation of all good neighborhood, [Greek: Panta + oun osa an thelaete ina poiosin hymin hoi anthropoi, houto kai hymeis + poieite autois. Matth]. vii 12.--_Vide Bradford's Hist. Plym. + Plantation_, pp. 82, 83; _Mourt's Relation_, London, 1622, Dexter's + ed., pp. 21, 22, 30, 31, 55. + +232. The latitude of Nobska Point, the most southern limit of their voyage, + is 41° 31', while the latitude of Nauset Harbor, the southern limit of + that of De Monts on the previous year, 1605, is 41° 49'. They + consequently advanced but 18', or eighteen nautical miles, further + south than they did the year before. Had they commenced this year's + explorations where those of the preceding terminated, as Champlain had + advised, they might have explored the whole coast as far as Long + Island Sound. _Vide antea_, pp. 109, 110. + +233. Between the Kennebec and Penobscot. + +234. _Vide antea_, note 177. + +235. _Isles Rangées_, the small islands along the coast south-west of + Machias. _Vide_ map of 1612. + +236. _Petit passage de la Rivière Saincte Croix_, the southern strait + leading into Eastport Harbor. This anchorage appears to have been in + Quoddy Roads between Quoddy Head and Lubeck. + +237. In reporting the stratagem resorted to for decoying the Indians into + the hands of the French at Port Fortuné, Champlain passes over the + details of the bloody encounter, doubtless to spare himself and the + reader the painful record; but its results are here distinctly + stated. Compare _antea_, pp. 132, 133. + +238. Sailing from Quoddy Head to Annapolis Bay, they would in their course + pass round the northern point of the Grand Manan; and they probably + anchored in Whale Cove, or perhaps in Long Island Bay, a little + further south. Champlain's map is so oriented that both of these bays + would appear to be on the south of the Grand Manan. _Vide_ map of + 1612. + +239. Champlain had now completed his survey south of the Bay of Fundy. He + had traced the shore-line with its sinuosities and its numberless + islands far beyond the two distinguished headlands, Cape sable and + Cape Cod, which respectively mark the entrance to the Gulf of Maine. + The priority of these observations, particularly with reference to the + habits, mode of life, and character of the aborigines, invests them + with an unusual interest and value. Anterior to the visits of + Champlain, the natives on this coast had come in contact with + Europeans but rarely and incidentally, altogether too little + certainly, if we except those residing on the southern coast of Nova + Scotia, to have any modifying effect upon their manners, customs, or + mode of life. What Champlain reports, therefore, of the Indians, is + true of them in their purely savage state, untouched by any influences + of European civilization. This distinguishes the record, and gives to + it a special importance. + + + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +RETURN FROM THE FOREGOING DISCOVERIES, AND WHAT TRANSPIRED DURING THE +WINTER. + +Upon our arrival, Lescarbot, who had remained at the settlement, assisted +by the others who had stayed there, welcomed us with a humorous +entertainment. [240] + +Having landed and had time to take breath, each one began to make little +gardens, I among the rest attending to mine, in order in the spring to sow +several kinds of seeds which had been brought from France, and which grew +very well in all the gardens. + +Sieur de Poutrincourt, moreover, had a water-mill built nearly a league and +a half from our settlement, near the point where grain had been planted. +This mill [241] was built at a fall, on a little river which is not +navigable on account of the large number of rocks in it, and which falls +into a small lake. In this place, there is such an abundance of herring in +their season that shallops could be loaded with them, if one were to take +the trouble to bring the requisite apparatus. The savages also of this +region come here sometimes to fish. A quantity of charcoal was made by us +for our forge. During the winter, in order not to remain idle, I undertook +the building of a road along the wood to a little, river or brook, which we +named La Truitière, [242] there being many trout there. I asked Sieur de +Poutrincourt for two or three men, which he gave me to assist in making +this passage-way. I got along so well that in a little while I had the road +through. It extends through to trout-brook, and measures nearly two +thousand paces. It served us as a walk under the shelter of the trees, +which I had left on both sides. This led Sieur de Poutrincourt to determine +to make another through the woods, in order that we might go straight to +the mouth of Port Royal, it being a distance of nearly three leagues and a +half by land from our settlement. He had this commenced and continued for +about half a league from La Truitière; but he did not finish it, as the +undertaking was too laborious, and he was occupied by other things at the +time more necessary. Some time after our arrival, we saw a shallop +containing savages, who told us that a savage, who was one of our friends, +had been killed by those belonging to the place whence they came, which was +Norumbegue, in revenge for the killing of the men of Norumbegue and +Quinibequy by Iouaniscou, also a savage, and his followers, as I have +before related; and that some Etechemins had informed the savage Secondon, +who was with us at that time. + +The commander of the shallop was the savage named Ouagimou, who was on +terms of friendship with Bessabez, chief of the river Norumbegue, of whom +he asked the body of Panounias, [243] who had been killed. The latter +granted it to him, begging him to tell his friends that he was very sorry +for his death, and assuring him that it was without his knowledge that he +had been killed, and that, inasmuch as it was not his fault, he begged him +to tell them that he desired they might continue to live as friends. This +Ouagimou promised to do upon his return. He said to us that he was very +uneasy until he got away from them, whatever friendship they might show +him, since they were liable to change; and he feared that they would treat +him in the same manner as they had the one who had been killed. +Accordingly, he did not tarry long after being dismissed. He took the body +in his shallop from Norumbegue to our settlement, a distance of fifty +leagues. + +As soon as the body was brought on shore, his relatives and friends began +to shout by his side, having painted their entire face with black, which is +their mode of mourning. After lamenting much, they took a quantity of +tobacco and two or three dogs and other things belonging to the deceased, +and burned them some thousand paces from our settlement on the +sea-shore. Their cries continued until they returned to their cabin. + +The next day they took the body of the deceased and wrapped it in a red +covering, which Mabretou, chief of this place, urgently implored me to give +him, since it was handsome and large. He gave it to the relatives of the +deceased, who thanked me very much for it. After thus; wrapping up the +body, they decorated it with several kinds of _matachiats_; that is, +strings of beads and bracelets of diverse colors. They painted the face, +and put on the head many feathers and other things, the finest they had. +Then they placed the body on its knees between two sticks, with another +under the arms to sustain it. Around the body were the mother, wife, and +others of the relatives and friends of the deceased, both women and girls, +howling like dogs. + +While the women and girls were shrieking, the savage named Mabretou made an +address to his companions on the death of the deceased, urging all to take +vengeance for the wickedness and treachery committed by the subjects of +Bessabez, and to make war upon them as speedily as possible. All agreed to +do so in the spring. + +After the harangue was finished and the cries had ceased, they carried the +body of the deceased to another cabin. After smoking tobacco together, +they wrapped it in an elk-skin likewise; and, binding it very securely, +they kept it until there should be a larger number of savages present, from +each one of whom the brother of the deceased expected to receive presents, +it being their custom to give them to those who have lost fathers, mothers, +wives, brothers, or sisters. + +On the night of the 26th of December, there was a southeast wind, which +blew down several trees. On the last day of December, it began to snow, +which continued until the morning of the next day. On the both of January +following, 1607, Sieur de Poutrincourt, desiring to ascend the river +Équille, [244] found it at a distance of some two leagues from our +settlement sealed with ice, which caused him to return, not being able to +advance any farther. On the 8th of February, some pieces of ice began to +flow down from the upper part of the river into the harbor, which only +freezes along the shore. On the both of May following, it snowed all night; +and, towards the end of the month, there were heavy hoar-frosts, which +lasted until the 10th or 12th of June, when all the trees were covered with +leaves, except the oaks, which do not leaf out until about the 15th. The +winter was not so severe as on the preceding years, nor did the snow +continue so long on the ground. It rained very often, so that the savages +suffered a severe famine, owing to the small quantity of snow. Sieur de +Poutrincourt supported a part of them who were with us; namely, Mabretou, +his wife and children, and some others. + +We spent this winter very pleasantly, and fared generously by means of the +ORDRE DE BON TEMPS, which I introduced. This all found useful for their +health, and more advantageous than all the medicines that could have been +used. By the rules of the order, a chain was put, with some little +ceremonies, on the neck of one of our company, commissioning him for the +day to go a hunting. The next day it was conferred upon another, and thus +in succession. All exerted themselves to the utmost to see who would do the +best and bring home the finest game. We found this a very good arrangement, +as did also the savages who were with us. [245] + +There were some cases of _mal de la terre_ among us, which was, however, +not so violent as in the previous years. Nevertheless, seven died from it, +and another from an arrow wound, which he had received from the savages at +Port Fortuné. [246] + +Our surgeon, named Master Estienne, opened some of the bodies, as we did +the previous years, and found almost all the interior parts affected. Eight +or ten of the sick got well by spring. + +At the beginning of March and of April, all began to prepare gardens, so as +to plant seeds in May, which is the proper time for it. They grew as well +as in France, but were somewhat later. I think France is at least a month +and a half more forward. As I have stated, the time to plant is in May, +although one can sometimes do so in April; yet the seeds planted then do +not come forward any faster than those planted in May, when the cold can no +longer damage the plants except those which are very tender, since there +are many which cannot endure the hoar-frosts, unless great care and +attention be exercised. + +On the 24th of May, we perceived a small barque [247] of six or seven tons' +burthen, which we sent men to reconnoitre; and it was found to be a young +man from St. Malo, named Chevalier, who brought letters from Sieur de Monts +to Sieur de Poutrincourt, by which he directed him to bring back his +company to France. [248] He also announced to us the birth of Monseigneur, +the Duke of Orleans, to our delight, in honor of which event we made +bonfires and chanted the _Te Deum_. [249] + +Between the beginning and the 20th of June, some thirty or forty savages +assembled in this place in order to make war upon the Almouchiquois, and +revenge the death of Panounias, who was interred by the savages according +to their custom, who gave afterwards a quantity of peltry to a brother of +his.[250] The presents being made, all of them set out from this place on +the 29th of June for Choüacoet, which is the country of the Almouchiquois, +to engage in the war. + +Some days after the arrival of the above Chevalier, Sieur de Poutrincourt +sent him to the rivers St. John [251] and St. Croix [252] to trade for +furs. But he did not permit him to go without men to bring back the barque, +since some had reported that he desired to return to France with the vessel +in which he had come, and leave us in our settlement. Lescarbot was one of +those who accompanied him, who up to this time had not left Port Royal. +This is the farthest he went, only fourteen or fifteen leagues beyond Port +Royal. + +While awaiting the return of Chevalier, Sieur de Poutrincourt went to the +head of Baye Françoise in a shallop with seven or eight men. Leaving the +harbor and heading northeast a quarter east for some twenty-five leagues +along the coast, we arrived at a cape where Sieur de Poutrincourt desired +to ascend a cliff more than thirty fathoms high, in doing which he came +near losing his life. For, having reached the top of the rock which is very +narrow, and which he had ascended with much difficulty, the summit trembled +beneath him. The reason was that, in course of time, moss had gathered +there four or five feet in thickness, and, not being solid, trembled when +one was on top of it, and very often when one stepped on a stone three or +four others fell down. Accordingly, having gone up with difficulty, he +experienced still greater in coming down, although some sailors, men very +dexterous in climbing, carried him a hawser, a rope of medium size, by +means of which he descended, This place was named Cap de Poutrincourt, +[253] and is in latitude 45° 40'. + +We went as far as the head of this bay, but saw nothing but certain white +stones suitable for making lime, yet they are found only in small +quantities. We saw also on some islands a great number of gulls. We +captured as many of them as we wished. We made the tour of the bay, in +order to go to the Port aux Mines where I had previously been, [254] and +whither I conducted Sieur de Poutrincourt, who collected some little pieces +of copper with great difficulty. All this bay has a circuit of perhaps +twenty leagues, with a little river at its head, which is very sluggish and +contains but little water. There are many other little brooks, and some +places where there are good harbors at high tide, which rises here five +fathoms. In one of these harbors three or four leagues north of Cap de +Poutrincourt, we found a very old cross all covered with moss and almost +all rotten, a plain indication that before this there had been Christians +there. All of this country is covered with dense forests, and with some +exceptions is not very attractive. [255] + +From the Port aux Mines [256] we returned to our settlement. In this bay +there are strong tidal currents running in a south-westerly direction. + +On the 12th of July, Ralleau, secretary of Sieur de Monts, arrived with +three others in a shallop from a place called Niganis, [257] distant from +Port Royal some hundred and sixty or hundred and seventy leagues, +confirming the report which Chevalier had brought to Sieur de Poutrincourt. + +On the 3d of July, [258] three barques were fitted out to send the men and +supplies, which were at our settlement, to Canseau, distant one hundred and +fifteen leagues from our settlement, and in latitude 45° 20', where the +vessel [259] was engaged in fishing, which was to carry us back to France. + +Sieur de Poutrincourt sent back all his companions, but remained with eight +others at the settlement, so as to carry to France some grain not yet quite +ripe. [260] + +On the 10th of August, Mabretou arrived from the war, who told us that he +had been at Choüacoet, and had killed twenty savages and wounded ten or +twelve; also that Onemechin, chief of that place, Marchin, and one other, +had been killed by Sasinou, chief of the river of Quinibequy, who was +afterwards killed by the companions of Onemechin and Marchin. All this war +was simply on account of the savage Panounias, one of our friends who, as I +have said above, had been killed at Norumbegue by the followers of +Onemechin and Marchin. At present, the chiefs in place of Onemechin, +Marchin, and Sasinou are their sons: namely, for Sasinou, Pememen; Abriou +for his father, Marchin; and for Onemechin, Queconsicq. The two latter were +wounded by the followers of Mabretou, who seized them under pretence of +friendship, as is their fashion, something which both sides have to guard +against. [261] + +ENDNOTES: + +240. Lescarbot, the author of a History of New France often referred to in + our notes, published a volume entitled "LES MUSES DE LA NOUVELLE + FRANCE," in which may be found the play entitled LE THEATRE DE + NEPTUNE, which he composed to celebrate the return of this expedition. + +241. The mill is represented on Champlain's map of Port Royal as situated + on the stream which he calls _Rivière du Moulin_, the River of the + Mill. This is Allen River; and the site of the mill was a short + distance south-east of the "point where corn had been planted," which + was on the spot now occupied by the village of Annapolis. + +242. _Vide antea_, note 212. see also the map of Port Royal, where the road + is delineated, p. 24. + +243. This Indian Panounias and his wife had accompanied De Monts in 1605, + on his expedition to Cape Cod.--_Vide_ antea, p. 55. + +244. Now the Annapolis River. + +245. The conceit of this novel order was a happy one, as it served to + dispel the gloom of a long winter in the forests of La Cadie, as well + as to improve the quality and variety of their diet. The _noblesse_, + or gentlemen of the party, were fifteen, who served in turn and for a + single day as caterer or steward, the turn of each recurring once in + fifteen days. It was their duty to add to the ordinary fare such + delicate fish or game as could be captured or secured by each for his + particular day. They always had some delicacy at breakfast; but the + dinner was the great banquet, when the most imposing ceremony was + observed. + +246. Champlain does not inform us how many of Poutrincourt's party were + killed in the affray at Chatham. He mentions one as killed on the + spot. He speaks of carrying away the "dead bodies" for burial. He also + says they made a "deadly assault" upon "five or six of our company;" + and another appears to have died of his wounds after their return to + Port Royal, as stated in the text. + +247. _Une petite barque_. The French barque was a small vessel or large + boat, rigged with two masts; and those employed by De Monts along our + coast varied from six to eighteen tons burden, and must not be + confounded with our modern bark, which is generally much larger. + + The _vaisseau_, often mentioned by Champlain, included all large + vessels, those used for fishing, the fur-trade, and the transportation + of men and supplies for the colony. + + The _chaloupe_ was a row-boat of convenient size for penetrating + shallow places, was dragged behind the barque in the explorations of + our coast, and used for minor investigations of rivers and estuaries. + + The _patache_, an advice-boat, is rarely used by Champlain, and then + in the place of the shallop. + +248. It Seems that young Chevalier had come out in the "Jonas," the same + ship that had brought out Poutrincourt, Lescarbot, and others, the + year before. It had stopped at Canseau to fish for cod. It brought the + unwelcome news that the company of De Monts had been broken up; that + the Hollanders, conducted by a "French traitor named La Jeunesse," had + destroyed the fur-trading establishments on the St. Lawrence, which + rendered it impracticable to sustain, as heretofore, the expenses of + the company. The monopoly of the fur-trade, granted to De Monts for + ten years, had been rescinded by the King's Council. "We were very + sad," says Lescarbot, "to see so fine and holy an undertaking broken + off, and that so many labors and perils endured had resulted in + nothing: and that the hope of establishing there the name of God and + the Catholic Faith had disappeared. Notwithstanding, after M. de + Poutrincourt had a long while mused hereupon, he said that, although + he should have none to come with him, except his family, he would not + forsake the enterprise."--_His. Nou. France_, par M. Lescarbot. + Paris, 1612. pp. 591-2. + +249. On the 16th of April, 1607, was born the second son of Henry IV. by + Marie de Medicis, who received the title, Le Duc d'Orléans. In France, + public rejoicings were universal. On the 22d of the month, he was + invested with the insignia of the Order of St. Michael and the Holy + Ghost with great pomp, on which occasion a banquet was given by the + King in the great hall at Fontainebleau, and in the evening the park + was illuminated by bonfires and a pyrotechnic display, which was + witnessed by a vast concourse of people. The young prince was baptized + privately by the Cardinal de Gondy, but the state ceremonies of his + christening were delayed, and appear never to have taken place: he + died in the fifth year of his age, never having received any Christian + name.--_Vide the Life of Marie de Medicis_, by Miss Pardoe, London, + 1852, Vol. I. p. 416; _Memoirs of the Duke of Sully_, Lennox, trans., + Phila., 1817, Vol. IV. p. 140. In New France, the little colony at + Port Royal attested their loyalty by suitable manifestations of + joy. "As the day declined," Says Lescarbot, "we made bonfires to + celebrate the birth of Monseigneur le Duc d'Orléans, and caused our + cannon and falconets to thunder forth again, accompanied with plenty + of musket-shots, having before for this purpose chanted a _Te Deum_." + --_Vide His. Nou. France_, Paris, 1612, p.594. + +250. Lescarbot says that about four hundred set out for the war against the + Almouchiquois, at Choüacoet, or Saco. The savages were nearly two + months in assembling themselves together. Mabretou had sent out his + two sons, Actaudin and Actaudinech, to summon them to come to Port + Royal as a rendezvous. They came from the river St. John, and from the + region of Gaspé. Their purpose was accomplished, as will appear in the + sequel. + +251. At St. John, they visited the cabin of Secondon, the Sagamore, with + whom they bartered for some furs. Lescarbot, who was in the + expedition, says, "The town of Ouïgoudy was a great enclosure upon a + hill, compassed about with high and small trees, tied one against + another; and within it many cabins, great and small, one of which was + as large as a market-hall, wherein many households resided." In the + cabin of Secondon. they saw some eighty or a hundred savages, all + nearly naked. They were celebrating a feast which they call _Tabagie_. + Their chief made his warriors pass in review before his guests.--_Vide + His. Nou. France_, par M. Lescarbot. Paris, 1612. p. 598. + +252. They found sack at St. Croix that had been left there by De Monts's + colony three years before, of which they drank. Casks were still lying + in the deserted court-yard: and others had been used as fuel by + mariners, who had chanced to come there. + +253. De Laet's map has C. de Poutrincourt; the map of the English and + French Commissaries, C. Fendu or split Cape. Halliburton has Split + Cape, so likewise has the Admiralty map of 1860. + + It is situated at the entrance of the Basin of Mines, and about eight + miles southwest of Parrsborough. The point of this cape is in latitude + 45° 20'. + +254. _Vide antea_, p. 26. + +255. The author is here speaking of the country about the Basin of Mines. + The river at the head of the bay is the Shubenacadie. It is not easy + to determine where the moss-covered cross was found. The distance from + Cap de Poutrincourt is indefinite, and the direction could not have + been exactly north. There is too much uncertainty to warrant even a + conjecture as to its locality. + +256. The port aux Mines is Advocate's Harbor.--_Vide antea_, p. 26, and + note 67. + +257. Niganis is a small Bay in the Island of Cape Breton, south of Cape + North: by De Laet called _Ninganis_; English, and French Commissaries, + _Niganishe_; modern maps, _Niganish_. + +258. The _3d of July_ was doubtless an error of the printer for the 30th, + as appears from the later date in the preceding paragraph, and the + statement of Lescarbot, that he left on the 30th of July. He says they + had one large barque, two small ones, and a shallop. One of the small + ones was sent before, while the other two followed on the 30th; and he + adds that Poutrincourt remained eleven days longer to await the + ripening of their grain, which agrees with Champlain's subsequent + statement, that he left with Poutrincourt on the 11th of + August.--_Vide His. Nou. France_, 1612, p. 603. + +259. The "Jonas."--_Vide antea_, p. 146. + +260. _Vide antea_, note 258. + +261. The implacable character of the American Indian is well illustrated in + this skirmish which took place at Saco. The old chief Mabretou, whose + life had been prolonged through several generations, had inspired his + allies to revenge, and had been present at the conflict. The Indian + Panounias had been killed in an affray, the particular cause of which + is not stated. To avenge his death, many lives were lost on both + sides. The two chiefs of Saco were slain, and in turn the author of + their death perished by the hand of their friends. Lescarbot informs + us that Champdoré, under Poutrincourt, subsequently visited Saco, and + concluded a formal peace between the belligerent parties, emphasizing + its importance by impressive forms, and ceremonies. + + + + +CHAPTER XVII. + +THE SETTLEMENT ABANDONED.--RETURN TO FRANCE OF SIEUR DE POUTRINCOURT AND +ALL HIS COMPANY. + +On the 11th of August, we set out from our settlement in a shallop, and +coasted along as far as Cape Fourchu, where I had previously been. + +Continuing our course along the coast as far as Cap de la Hève, where we +first landed with Sieur de Monts, on the 8th of May, 1604, [262] we +examined the coast from this place as far as Canseau, a distance of nearly +sixty leagues. This I had not yet done, and I observed it very carefully, +making a map of it as of the other coasts. + +Departing from Cap de la Hève, we went as far as Sesambre, an island so +called by some people from St. Malo, [263] and distant fifteen leagues from +La Hève. Along the route are a large number of islands, which we named Les +Martyres, [264] since some Frenchmen were once killed there by the savages. +These islands lie in several inlets and bays. In one of them is a river +named St. Marguerite, [265] distant seven leagues from Sesambre, which is +in latitude 44° 25'. The islands and coasts are thickly covered with pines, +firs, birches, and other trees of inferior quality. Fish and also fowl are +abundant. + +After leaving Sesambre, we passed a bay which is unobstructed, of seven or +eight leagues in extent, with no islands except at the extremity, where is +the mouth of a small river, containing but little water. [266] Then, +heading north-east a quarter east, we arrived at a harbor distant eight +leagues from Sesambre, which is very suitable for vessels of a hundred or a +hundred and twenty tons. At its entrance is an island from which one can +walk to the main land at low tide. We named this place Port Saincte +Helaine, [267] which is in latitude 44° 40' more or less. + +From this place we proceeded to a bay called La Baye de Toutes Isles, [268] +of some fourteen or fifteen leagues in extent, a dangerous place on account +of the presence of banks, shoals, and reefs. The country presents a very +unfavorable appearance, being filled with the same kind of trees which I +have mentioned before. Here we encountered bad weather. + +Hence we passed on near a river, six leagues distant, called Rivière de +l'Isle Verte,[269] there being a green island at its entrance. This short +distance which we traversed is filled with numerous rocks extending nearly +a league out to sea, where the breakers are high, the latitude being 45° +15'. + +Thence we went to a place where there is an inlet, with two or three +islands, and a very good harbor, [270] distant three leagues from l'Isle +Verte. We passed also by several islands near and in a line with each +other, which we named Isles Rangées, [271] and which are distant six or +seven leagues from l'Isle Verte. Afterwards we passed by another bay [272] +containing several islands, and proceeded to a place where we found a +vessel engaged in fishing between some islands, which are a short distance +from the main land, and distant four leagues from the Rangées. This place +we named Port de Savalette, [273] the name of the master of the vessel +engaged in fishing, a Basque, who entertained us bountifully; and was very +glad to see us, since there were savages there who purposed some harm to +him, which we prevented. [274] + +Leaving this place, we arrived on the 27th of the month at Canseau, distant +six leagues from Port de Savalette, having passed on our way a large number +of islands. At Canseau, we found that the three barques had arrived at port +in safety. Champdoré and Lescarbot came out to receive us. We also found +the vessel ready to sail, having finished its fishing and awaiting only +fair weather to return. Meanwhile, we had much enjoyment among these +islands, where we found the greatest possible quantity of raspberries. + +All the coast which we passed along from Cape Sable to this place is +moderately high and rocky, in most places bordered by numerous islands and +breakers, which extend out to sea nearly two leagues in places, and are +very unfavorable for the approach of vessels. Yet there cannot but be good +harbors and roadsteads along the coasts and islands, if they were explored. +As to the country, it is worse and less promising than in other places +which we had seen, except on some rivers or brooks, where it is very +pleasant; but there is no doubt that the winter in these regions is cold, +lasting from six to seven months. + +The harbor of Canseau [275] is a place surrounded by islands, +to which the approach is very difficult, except in fair weather, on account +of the rocks and breakers about it. Fishing, both green and dry, is carried +on here. + +From this place to the Island of Cape Breton, which is in latitude 45° 45' +and 14° 50' of the deflection of the magnetic needle, [276] it is eight +leagues, and to Cape Breton twenty-five. Between the two there is a large +bay, [277] extending Some nine or ten leagues into the interior and making +a passage between the Island of Cape Breton and the main land through to +the great Bay of St. Lawrence, by which they go to Gaspé and Isle Percée, +where fishing is carried on. This passage along the Island of Cape Breton +is very narrow. Although there is water enough, large vessels do not pass +there at all on account of the strong currents and the impetuosity of the +tides which prevail. This we named Le Passage Courant, [278] and it is in +latitude 45° 45'. + +The Island of Cape Breton is of a triangular shape, with a circuit of about +eighty leagues. Most of the country is mountainous, yet in some parts very +pleasant. In the centre of it there is a kind of lake, [279] where the sea +enters by the north a quarter north-west, and also by the south a quarter +Southeast. [280] Here are many islands filled with plenty of game, and +shell-fish of various kinds, including oysters, which, however, are not of +very good flavor. In this place there are two harbors, where fishing is +carried on; namely, Le Port aux Anglois, [281] distant from Cape Breton +some two or three leagues, and Niganis, eighteen or twenty leagues north a +quarter north-west. The Portuguese once made an attempt to settle this +island, and spent a winter here; but the inclemency of the season and the +cold caused them to abandon their settlement. + +On the 3rd of September, we set out from Canseau. On the 4th, we were off +Sable Island. On the 6th, we reached the Grand Bank, where the catching of +green fish is carried on, in latitude 45° 30'. On the 26th, we entered the +sound near the shores of Brittany and England, in sixty-five fathoms of +water and in latitude 49° 30'. On the 28th, we put in at Roscou, [282] in +lower Brittany, where we were detained by bad weather until the last day of +September, when, the wind coming round favorable, we put to sea in order to +pursue our route to St. Malo, [283] which formed the termination of these +voyages, in which God had guided us without shipwreck or danger. + + +END OF THE VOYAGES FROM THE YEAR 1604 TO 1608. + +ENDNOTES: + +262. _Vide antea_, p. 9 and note 22. + +263. Sesambre. This name was probably suggested by the little islet, + _Cézembre_, one of several on which are military works for the defence + of St. Malo. On De Laet's map of 1633, it is written _Sesembre_; on + that of Charlevoix. 1744, _Sincenibre_. It now appears on the + Admiralty maps corrupted into Sambro. There is a cape and a harbor + near this island which bear the same name. + +264. The islands stretching along from Cap de la Hève to Sambro Island are + called the _Martyres Iles_ on De Laet's map, 1633. + +265. The bay into which this river empties still retains the name of + St. Margaret. + +266. Halifax Harbor. Its Indian name was Chebucto, written on the map of + the English and French Commissaries _Shebûctû_. On Champlain's map, + 1612, as likewise on that of De Laet, 1633, it is called "_Baye + Senne_," perhaps from _saine_, signifying the unobstructed bay. + +267. Eight leagues from the Island Sesambre or Sambro Island would take + them to Perpisawick Inlet, which is doubtless _Le Port Saincte + Helaine_ of Champlain. The latitude of this harbor is 44° 41', + differing but a single minute from that of the text, which is + extraordinary, the usual variation being from ten to thirty minutes. + +268. Nicomtau Bay is fifteen leagues from Perpisawick Inlet, but _La Baye + de Toutes Isles_ is, more strictly speaking, an archipelago, extending + along the coast, say from Clam Bay to Liscomb Point, as may be seen by + reference to Champlain's map, 1612, and that of De Laet, 1633, + Cruxius, 1660, and of Charlevoix, 1744. The north-eastern portion of + this archipelago is now called, according to Laverdière, Island Bay. + +269. _Rivière de l'Isle Verte_, or Green Island River, is the River + St. Mary; and Green Island is Wedge Island near its mouth. The + latitude at the mouth of the river is 45° 3'. This little island is + called _I. Verte_ on De Laet's map, and likewise on that of + Charlevoix; on the map of the English and French Commissaries, Liscomb + or Green Island. + +270. This inlet has now the incongruous name of Country Harbor: the three + islands at its mouth are Harbor, Goose, and Green Islands. The inlet + is called Mocodome on Charlevoix's map. + +271. There are several islets on the east of St. Catharine's River, near + the shore, which Laverdière suggests are the _Isles Rangées_. They + are exceedingly small, and no name is given them on the Admiralty + charts. + +272. Tor Bay. + +273. _Le Port de Savalette_. Obviously White Haven, which is four leagues + from the Rangées and six from Canseau, as stated in the text. + Lescarbot gives a very interesting account of Captain Savalette, the + old Basque fisherman, who had made forty-two voyages into these + waters. He had been eminently successful in fishing, having taken + daily, according to his own account, fifty crowns' worth of codfish, + and expected his voyage would yield, ten thousand francs. His vessel + was of eighty tons burden, and could take in a hundred thousand dry + codfish. He was well known, and a great favorite with the voyagers to + this coast. He was from St. Jean de Luz, a small seaport town in the + department of the Lower Pyrenees in France, near the borders of Spain, + distinguished even at this day for its fishing interest. + +274. The Indians were in the habit of selecting from day to day the best of + Savalette's fish when they came in, and appropriating them to their + own use, _nolens volens_. + +275. _Canseau_. Currency has been given to an idle fancy that this name was + derived from that of a French navigator, but it has been abundantly + disproved by the Abbé Laverdière. It is undoubtedly a word of Indian + origin. + +276. The variation of the magnetic needle in 1871, fifteen miles South of + the Harbor of Canseau, was, according to the Admiralty charts, 23 + degrees west. The magnetic needle was employed in navigation as early + as the year 1200, and its variation had been discovered before the + time of Columbus. But for a long period its variation was supposed to + be fixed; that is to say, was supposed to be always the same in the + same locality. A few years before Champlain made his voyages to + America, it was discovered that its variation in Paris was not fixed, + but that it changed from year to year. If Champlain was aware of this, + his design in noting its exact variation, as he did at numerous points + on our coast, may have been to furnish data for determining at some + future day whether the variation were changeable here as well as in + France. But, whether he was aware of the discovery then recently made + in Paris or not, he probably intended, by noting the declination of + the needle, to indicate his longitude, at least approximately. + +277. Chedabucto Bay. + +278. The Strait of Canseau. Champlain gives it on his map, 1612. _Pasage du + glas;_ De Laet, 1633, _Passage du glas;_ Creuxius, 1660, Fretum + Campseium; Charlevoix, 1744, _Passage de Canceau_. It appears from the + above that the early name was soon superseded by that which it now + bears. + +279. Now called _La Bras d'Or_, The Golden Arm. + +280. There is, in fact, no passage of La Bras d'Or on the south-west; and + Champlain corrects his error, as may be seen by reference to his map + of 1612. It may also be stated that the sea enters from the + north-east. _Nordouest_ in the original is here probably a + typographical error for _nordest_. There are, indeed, two passages, + both on the north-east, distinguished as the Great and the Little Bras + d'Or. + +281. _Le Port aux Anglois_, the Harbor of the English. On De Laet's map, + Port aux Angloix. This is the Harbor of Louisburgh, famous in the + history of the Island of Cape Breton. + +282. Roscofs, a small seaport town. On Mercator's Atlas of 1623, it is + written Roscou, as in the text. + +283. According to Lescarbot, they remained at St. Malo eight days, when + they went in a barque to Honfleur, narrowly escaping + shipwreck. Poutrincourt proceeded to Paris, where he exhibited to + Henry IV. corn, wheat, rye, barley, and oats, products of the colony + which he had so often promised to cherish, but whose means of + subsistence he had now nevertheless ungraciously taken away. + Poutrincourt also presented to him five _oustards_, or wild geese, + which he had bred from the shell. The king was greatly delighted with + them, and had them preserved at Fontainebleau. These exhibitions of + the products of New France had the desired effect upon the generous + heart of Henry IV.; and De Monts's monopoly of the fur-trade was + renewed for one year, to furnish some slight aid in establishing his + colonies in New France. + + + + +THE VOYAGES +TO THE +GREAT RIVER ST. LAWRENCE, +MADE BY +SIEUR DE CHAMPLAIN, +CAPTAIN IN ORDINARY TO THE KING IN THE MARINE, +FROM THE YEAR 1608 TO THAT OF 1612. + + + +CHAPTER I. + +DETERMINATION OF SIEUR DE MONTS TO MAKE EXPLORATIONS IN THE INTERIOR; HIS +COMMISSION, AND ITS INFRINGEMENT BY THE BASQUES, WHO DISARMED THE VESSEL OF +PONT GRAVÉ; AND THE AGREEMENT BETWEEN THEM WHICH THEY SUBSEQUENTLY MADE. + + +Having returned to France after a stay of three years in New France, [283] +I proceeded to Sieur de Monts, and related to him the principal events of +which I had been a witness since his departure, and gave him the map and +plan of the most remarkable coasts and harbors there. + +Some time afterward, Sieur de Monts determined to continue his undertaking, +and complete the exploration of the interior along the great river +St. Lawrence, where I had been by order of the late King Henry the Great +[284] in the year 1603, for a distance of some hundred and eighty leagues, +commencing in latitude 48° 40', that is, at Gaspé, at the entrance of the +river, as far as the great fall, which is in latitude 45° and some minutes, +where our exploration ended, and where boats could not pass as we then +thought, since we had not made a careful examination of it as we have since +done. [285] + +Now after Sieur de Monts had conferred with me several times in regard to +his purposes concerning the exploration, he resolved to continue so noble +and meritorious an undertaking, notwithstanding the hardships and labors of +the past. He honored me with his lieutenancy for the voyage; and, in order +to carry out his purpose, he had two vessels equipped, one commanded by +Pont Gravé, who was commissioned to trade with the savages of the country +and bring back the vessels, while I was to winter in the country. + +Sieur de Monts, for the purpose of defraying the expenses of the +expedition, obtained letters from his Majesty for one year, by which all +persons were forbidden to traffic in peltry with the savages, on penalties +stated in the following commission:-- + + +HENRY BY THE GRACE OF GOD KING OF FRANCE AND NAVARRE, to our beloved and +faithful Councillors, the officers of our Admiralty in Normandy, Brittany, +and Guienne, bailiffs, marshals, prevosts, judges, or their lieutenants, +and to each one of them, according to his authority, throughout the extent +of their powers, jurisdictions, and precincts, greeting: + +Acting upon the information which has been given us by those who have +returned from New France, respecting the good quality and fertility of the +lands of that country, and the disposition of the people to accept the +knowledge of God, We have resolved to continue the settlement previously +undertaken there, in order that our subjects may go there to trade without +hinderance. And in view of the proposition to us of Sieur de Monts, +Gentleman in Ordinary of our chamber, and our Lieutenant-General in that +country, to make a settlement, on condition of our giving him means and +supplies for sustaining the expense of it, [286] it has pleased us to +promise and assure him that none of our subjects but himself shall be +permitted to trade in peltry and other merchandise, for the period of one +year only, in the lands, regions, harbors, rivers, and highways throughout +the extent of his jurisdiction: this We desire to have fulfilled. For these +causes and other considerations impelling us thereto, We command and decree +that each one of you, throughout the extent of your powers, jurisdictions, +and precincts, shall act in our stead and carry out our will in distinctly +prohibiting and forbidding all merchants, masters, and captains of vessels, +also sailors and others of our subjects, of whatever rank and profession, +to fit out any vessels, in which to go themselves or send others in order +to engage in trade or barter in peltry and other things with the savages of +New France, to visit, trade, or communicate with them during the space of +one year, within the jurisdiction of Sieur de Monts, on penalty of +disobedience, and the entire confiscation of their vessels, supplies, arms, +and merchandise for the benefit of Sieur de Monts; and, in order that the +punishment of their disobedience may be assured, you will allow, as We have +and do allow, the aforesaid Sieur de Monts or his lieutenants to seize, +apprehend, and arrest all violators of our present prohibition and order, +also their vessels, merchandise, arms, supplies, and victuals, in order to +take and deliver them up to the hands of justice, so that action may be +taken not only against the persons, but also the property of the offenders, +as the case shall require. This is our will, and We bid you to have it at +once read and published in all localities and public places within your +authority and jurisdiction, as you may deem necessary, by the first one of +our officers or sergeants in accordance with this requisition, by virtue of +these presents, or a copy of the same, properly attested once only by one +of our well-beloved and faithful councillors, notaries, and secretaries, to +which it is Our will that credence should be given as to the present +original, in order that none of our subjects may claim ground for +ignorance, but that all may obey and act in accordance with Our will in +this matter. We order, moreover, all captains of vessels, mates, and second +mates, and sailors of the same, and others on board of vessels or ships in +the ports and harbors of the aforesaid country, to permit, as We have done, +Sieur de Monts, and others possessing power and authority from him, to +search the aforesaid vessels which shall have engaged in the fur-trade +after the present prohibition shall have been made known to them. It is Our +will that, upon the requisition, of the aforesaid Sieur de Monts, his +lieutenants, and others having authority, you should proceed against the +disobedient and offenders, as the case may require: to this end. We give +you power, authority, commission, and special mandate, notwithstanding the +act of our Council of the 17th day of July last, [287] any hue and cry, +Norman charter, accusation, objection, or appeals of whatsoever kind; on +account of which, and for fear of disregarding which, it is Our will that +there should be no delay, and, if any of these occur, We have withheld and +reserved cognizance of the same to Ourselves and our Council, apart from +all other judges, and have forbidden and prohibited the same to all our +courts and judges: for this is Our pleasure. + +Given at Paris the seventh day of January, in the year of grace, sixteen +hundred and eight, and the nineteenth of Our reign. Signed, HENRY. + + +And lower down, By the King, Delomenie. And sealed with the single label of +the great seal of yellow wax. + +Collated with the original by me, Councillor, Notary, and secretary of the +King. + +I proceeded to Honfleur for embarkation, where I found the vessel of Pont +Gravé in readiness. He left port on the 5th of April. I did so on the 13th, +arriving at the Grand Bank on the 15th of May, in latitude 45° 15'. On the +26th, we sighted Cape St. Mary,[288] in latitude 46° 45', on the Island of +Newfoundland. On the 27th of the month, we sighted Cape St. Lawrence, on +Cape Breton, and also the Island of St. Paul, distant eighty-three leagues +from Cape St. Mary.[289] On the 30th, we sighted Isle Percée and +Gaspé,[290] in latitude 48° 40', distant from Cape St. Lawrence from +seventy to seventy-five leagues. + +On the 3d of June, we arrived before Tadoussac, distant from Gaspé from +eighty to ninety leagues; and we anchored in the roadstead of +Tadoussac,[291] a league distant from the harbor, which latter is a kind of +cove at the mouth of the river Saguenay, where the tide is very remarkable +on account of its rapidity, and where there are sometimes violent winds, +bringing severe cold. It is maintained that from the harbor of Tadoussac it +is some forty-five or fifty leagues to the first fall on this river, which +comes from the north-north-west. The harbor is small, and can accommodate +only about twenty vessels. It has water enough, and is under shelter of the +river Saguenay and a little rocky island; which is almost cut by the river; +elsewhere there are very high mountains with little soil and only rocks and +sand, thickly covered with such wood as fir and birch. There is a small +pond near the harbor, shut in by mountains covered with wood. There are two +points at the mouth: one on the south-west side, extending out nearly a +league into the sea, called Point St. Matthew, or otherwise Point aux +Allouettes; and another on the north-west side, extending out one-eighth of +a league, and called Point of all Devils.[292] from the dangerous nature of +the place. The winds from the south-south-east strike the harbor, which are +not to be feared; but those, however, from the Saguenay are. The two points +above mentioned are dry at low tide: our vessel was unable to enter the +harbor, as the wind and tide were unfavorable. I at once had the boat +lowered, in order to go to the port and ascertain whether Pont Gravé had +arrived. While on the way, I met a shallop with the pilot of Pont Gravé and +a Basque, who came to inform me of what had happened to them because they +attempted to hinder the Basque vessels from trading, according to the +commission obtained by Sieur de Monts from his Majesty, that no vessels +should trade without permission of Sieur de Monts, as was expressed in it; +and that, notwithstanding the notifications which Pont Gravé made in behalf +of his Majesty, they did not desist from forcibly carrying on their +traffic; and that they had used their arms and maintained themselves so +well in their vessel that, discharging all their cannon upon that of Pont +Gravé, and letting off many musket-shots, he was severely wounded, together +with three of his men, one of whom died, Pont Gravé meanwhile making no +resistance; for at the first shower of musketry he was struck down. The +Basques came on board of the vessel and took away all the cannon and arms, +declaring that they would trade, notwithstanding the prohibition of the +King, and that when they were ready to set out for France they would +restore to him his cannon and ammunition, and that they were keeping them +in order to be in a state of security. Upon hearing all these particulars, +I was greatly annoyed at such a beginning, which we might have easily +avoided. + +Now, after hearing from the pilot all these things, I asked him why the +Basque had come on board of our vessel. He told me that he came in behalf +of their master, named Darache, and his companions, to obtain assurance +from me that I would do them no harm, when our vessel entered the harbor. + +I replied that I could not give any until I had seen Pont Gravé. The Basque +said that, if I had need of any thing in their power, they would assist me +accordingly. What led them to use this language was simply their +recognition of having done wrong, as they confessed, and the fear that they +would not be permitted to engage in the whale-fishery. After talking at +length, I went ashore to see Pont Gravé, in order to deliberate as to what +was to be done. I found him very ill. He related to me in detail all that +had happened. We concluded that we could only enter the harbor by force, +and that the settlement must not be given up for this year, so that we +considered it best, in order not to make a bad cause out of a just one, and +thus work our ruin, to give them assurances on my part so long as I should +remain there, and that Pont Gravé should undertake nothing against them, +but that justice should be done in France, and their differences should be +settled there. + +Darache, master of the vessel, begged me to go on board, where he gave me a +cordial reception. After a long conference, I secured an agreement between +Pont Gravé and him, and required him to promise that he would undertake +nothing against Pont Gravé, or what would be prejudicial to the King and +Sieur de Monts; that, if he did the contrary, I should regard my promise as +null and void. This was agreed to, and signed by each. + +In this place were a number of savages who had come for traffic in furs, +several of whom came to our vessel with their canoes, which are from eight +to nine paces long, and about a pace or pace and a half broad in the +middle, growing narrower towards the two ends. They are very apt to turn +over, in case one does not understand managing them, and are made of birch +bark, strengthened on the inside by little ribs of white cedar, very neatly +arranged; they are so light that a man can easily carry one. Each can carry +a weight equal to that of a pipe. When they want to go overland to a river +where they have business, they carry them with them. From Choüacoet along +the coast as far as the harbor of Tadoussac, they are all alike. + + +ENDNOTES: + +283. Champlain arrived on the shores of America on the 8th of May, 1604, + and left on the 3rd of September, 1607. He had consequently been on + our coast three years, three months, and twenty-five days. + +284. _The late King Henry the Great_. Henry IV. died in 1610, and this + introductory passage was obviously written after that event, probably + near the time of the publication of his voyages in 1613. + +285. In the preliminary voyage of 1603, Champlain ascended the St. Lawrence + as far as the falls of St. Louis, above Montreal. + +286. The contribution by Henry IV. did not probably extend beyond the + monopoly of the fur-trade granted by him in this commission. + +287. This, we presume, was the act abrogating the charter of De Monts + granted in 1603. + +288. This cape still retains its ancient name, and is situated between + St. Mary's Bay and Placentia Bay. + +289. Cape St. Lawrence is the northernmost extremity of the Island of Cape + Breton, and the Island of St. Paul is twenty miles north-east of it. + +290. The Isle Percée, or pierced island, is a short distance north of the + Island of Bonaventure, at the entrance of Mal Bay, near the village of + Percée, where there is a government light. Gaspé Bay is some miles + farther north. "Below the bay," says Charlevoix, "we perceive a kind + of island, which is only a steep rock about thirty fathoms long, ten + high, and four in breadth: it looks like part of an old wall, and they + say it joined formerly to _Mount Ioli_, which is over against it on + the continent. This rock has in the midst of it an opening like an + arch, under which a boat of Biscay may pass with its sail up, and this + has given it the name of the _pierced island_."--_Letters to the + Duchess of Lesdiguières_, by Francis Xavier de Charlevoix, London, + 1763, p. 12. + +291. The position in the roadstead was south-east of the harbor, so that + the harbor was seen on the north-west. Charlevoix calls it Moulin + Baude. The reader will find the position indicated by the letter M on + Champlain's map of the Port of Tadoussac. Baude Moulin (Baude Mill), + directly north of it, was probably a mill _privilege_. Charlevoix, in + 1720, anchored there, and asked them to show him the mill; and they + showed him some rocks, from which issued a stream of clear water. He + adds, they might build a water-mill here, but probably it will never + be done. + +292. _Pointe de tous les Diables_. Now known as Pointe aux Vaches, _cows_. + The point on the other side of the river is still called Pointe aux + Alouettes, or Lark Point. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +OF THE RIVER SAGUENAY, AND THE SAVAGES WHO VISITED US THERE.--OF THE ISLAND +OF ORLEANS, AND ALL THAT WE OBSERVED THERE WORTHY OF NOTE. + +After this agreement, I had some carpenters set to work to fit up a little +barque of twelve or fourteen tons, for carrying all that was needed for our +settlement, which, however, could not be got ready before the last of June. + +Meanwhile, I managed to visit some parts of the river Saguenay, a fine +river, which has the incredible depth of some one hundred and fifty to two +hundred fathoms. [293] About fifty leagues from the mouth of the harbor, +there is, as is said, a great waterfall, descending from a very high +elevation with great impetuosity. There are some islands in this river, +very barren, being only rocks covered with small firs and heathers. It is +half a league broad in places, and a quarter of a league at its mouth, +where the current is so strong that at three-quarters flood-tide in the +river it is still running out. All the land that I have seen consists only +of mountains and rocky promontories, for the most part covered with fir and +birch, a very unattractive country on both sides of the river. In a word, +it is mere wastes, uninhabited by either animals or birds; for, going out +hunting in places which seemed to me the most pleasant, I found only some +very small birds, such as swallows and river birds, which go there in +summer. At other times, there are none whatever, in consequence of the +excessive cold. This river flows from the north-west. + +The savages told me that, after passing the first fall, they meet with +eight others, when they go a day's journey without finding any. Then they +pass ten others, and enter a lake, [294] which they are three days in +crossing, and they are easily able to make ten leagues a day up stream. At +the end of the lake there dwells a migratory people. Of the three rivers +which flow into this lake, one comes from the north, very near the sea, +where they consider it much colder than in their own country; and the other +two from other directions in the interior, [295] where are migratory +savages, living only from hunting, and where our savages carry the +merchandise we give them for their furs, such as beaver, marten, lynx, and +otter, which are found there in large numbers, and which they then carry to +our vessels. These people of the north report to our savages that they see +the salt sea; and, if that is true, as I think it certainly is, it can be +nothing but a gulf entering the interior on the north. [296] The savages +say that the distance from the north sea to the port of Tadoussac is +perhaps forty-five or fifty days' journey, in consequence of the +difficulties presented by the roads, rivers, and country, which is very +mountainous, and where there is snow for the most part of the year. This is +what I have definitely ascertained in regard to this river. I have often +wished to explore it, but could not do so without the savages, who were +unwilling that I or any of our party should accompany them. Nevertheless, +they have promised that I shall do so. This exploration would be desirable, +in order to remove the doubts of many persons in regard to the existence of +this sea on the north, where it is maintained that the English have gone in +these latter years to find a way to China. [297] + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +PORT DE TADOUCAC. + +_The figures indicate the fathoms of water_. + +_A_. A round mountain on the bank of the river Saguenay. +_B_. The harbor of Tadoussac. +_C_. A small fresh-water brook. +_D_. The encampment of the savages when they come to traffic. +_E_. A peninsula partly enclosing the port of the river Saguenay. +_F_. Point of All Devils. +_G_. The river Saguenay. +_H_. Point aux Alouettes. +_I_. Very rough mountains covered with firs and beeches. +_L_. The mill Bode. +_M_. The roadstead where vessels anchor while waiting for wind and tide. +_N_. A little pond near the harbor. +_O_. A small brook coming from the pond and flowing into the Saguenay. +_P_. Place without trees near the point where there is a quantity of grass. + + * * * * * + +I set out from Tadoussac the last day of the month to go to Quebec. [298] +We passed near an island called Hare Island, [299] distant six leagues from +the above-named port: it is two leagues from the northern, and nearly four +leagues from the southern shore. From Hare Island we proceeded to a little +river, dry at low tide, up which some seven hundred or eight hundred paces +there are two falls. We named it Salmon River, [300] since we caught some +of these fish in it. Coasting along the north shore, we came to a point +extending into the river, which we called Cap Dauphin, [301] distant three +leagues from Salmon River. Thence we proceeded to another, which we named +Eagle Cape, [302] distant eight leagues from Cap Dauphin. Between the two +there is a large bay, [303] at the extremity of which is a little river dry +at low tide. From Eagle Cape, we proceeded to Isle aux Coudres, [304] a +good league distant, which is about a league and a half long. It is nearly +level, and grows narrower towards the two ends. On the western end there +are meadows, and rocky points extending some distance out into the river. +On the south-west side it is very reefy, yet very pleasant in consequence +of the woods surrounding it. It is distant about half a league from the +northern shore, where is a little river extending some distance into the +interior. We named it Rivière du Gouffre, [305] since abreast of it the +tide runs with extraordinary rapidity; and, although it has a calm +appearance, it is always much agitated, the depth there being great: but +the river itself is shallow, and there are many rocks at and about its +mouth. Coasting along from Isle aux Coudres, we reached a cape which we +named Cap de Tourmente, [306] five leagues distant; and we gave it this +name because, however little wind there may be, the water rises there as if +it were full tide. At this point, the water begins to be fresh. Thence we +proceeded to the Island of Orleans, [307] a distance of two leagues, on the +south side of which are numerous islands, low, covered with trees and very +pleasant, with large meadows, having plenty of game, some being, so far as +I could judge, two leagues in length, others a trifle more or less. About +these islands are many rocks, also very dangerous shallows, some two +leagues distant from the main land on the South. All this shore, both north +and South, from Tadoussac to the Island of Orleans, is mountainous, and the +soil very poor. The wood is pine, fir, and birch only, with very ugly +rocks, so that in most places one could not make his way. + +Now we passed along south of the Island of Orleans, which is a league and a +half distant from the main land and half a league on the north side, being +six leagues in length, and one in breadth, or in some places a league and a +half. On the north side, it is very pleasant, on account of the great +extent of woods and meadows there; but it is very dangerous sailing, in +consequence of the numerous points and rocks between the main land and +island, on which are numerous fine oaks and in some places nut-trees, and +on the borders of the woods vines and other trees such as we have in +France. This place is the commencement of the fine and fertile country of +the great river, and is distant one hundred and twenty leagues from its +mouth. Off the end of the island is a torrent of water on the north shore, +proceeding from a lake ten leagues in the interior: [308] it comes down +from a height of nearly twenty-five fathoms, above which the land is level +and pleasant, although farther inland are seen high mountains appearing to +be from fifteen to twenty leagues distant. + + +ENDNOTES: + +293. The deepest sounding as laid down on Laurie's Chart is one hundred and + forty-six fathoms. The same authority says the banks of the river + throughout its course are very rocky, and vary in height from one + hundred and seventy to three hundred and forty yards above the stream. + Its current is broad, deep, and uncommonly vehement: in some places, + where precipices intervene, are falls from fifty to sixty feet in + height, down which the whole volume of water rushes with tremendous + fury and noise. The general breadth of the river is about two and a + half miles, but at its mouth its width is contracted to three-quarters + of a mile. The tide runs upward about sixty-five miles from its mouth. + +294. If the Indians were three days in crossing Lake St. John here referred + to, whose length is variously stated to be from twenty-five to forty + miles, it could hardly have been the shortest time in which it were + possible to pass it. It may have been the usual time, some of which + they gave to fishing or hunting. "In 1647, Father Jean Duquen, + missionary at Tadoussac, ascending the Saguenay, discovered the Lake + St. John, and noted its Indian name, Picouagami, or Flat Lake. He was + the first European who beheld that magnificent expanse of inland + water."--_Vide Transactions, Lit. and His. Soc. of Quebec_, 1867-68, + p. 5. + +295. The first of these three rivers, which the traveller will meet as he + passes up the northern shore of the lake, is the Peribonca flowing + from the north-east. The second is the Mistassina, represented by the + Indians as coming from the salt sea. The third is the Chomouchonan, + flowing from the north-west. + +296. There was doubtless an Indian trail from the head-waters of the + Mistassina to Mistassin Lake, and from thence to Rupert River, which + flows into the lower part of Hudson's Bay. + +297. The salt sea referred to by the Indians was undoubtedly Hudson's Bay. + The discoverer of this bay, Henry Hudson, in the years 1607, 1608, and + 1609, was in the northern ocean searching for a passage to Cathay. In + 1610, he discovered the strait and bay which now bear his name. He + passed the winter in the southern part of the bay; and the next year, + 1611, his sailors in a mutiny forced him and his officers into a + shallop and abandoned them to perish. Nothing was heard of them + afterward. The fame of Hudson's discovery had reached Champlain + before the publication of this volume in 1613. This will be apparent + by comparing Champlain's small map with the TABULA NAUTICA of Hudson, + published in 1612. It will be seen that the whole of the Carte + Géographique de la Nouvelle France of Champlain, on the west of + Lumley's Inlet, including Hudson's Strait and Bay, is a copy from the + Tabula Nautica. Even the names are in English, a few characteristic + ones being omitted, such as Prince Henry, the King's Forlant, and Cape + Charles.--_Vide Henry Hudson the Navigator_, by G. M. Asher, LL.D., + Hakluyt Society, 1860, p. xliv. + +298. This was June 30, 1608. + +299. _Isle aux Lièvres_, or hares. This name was given by Jacques Cartier, + and it is still called Hare Island. It is about ten geographical miles + long, and generally about half or three-quarters of a mile wide. + +300. _Rivière aux Saulmons_. "From all appearances," says Laverdière, "this + Salmon River is that which empties into the 'Port à l'Équilles,' eel + harbor, also called 'Port aux Quilles,' Skittles Port. Its mouth is + two leagues from Cape Salmon, with which it must not be confounded." + It is now known as Black River. + +301. _Cap Dauphin_, now called Cape Salmon, which is about three leagues + from Black River. + +302. _Cap à l'Aigle_, now known as Cap aux Oies, or Goose Cape. The Eagle + Cape of to-day is little more than two leagues from Cape Salmon, while + Goose Cape is about eight leagues, as stated in the text. + +303. The bay stretching between Cape Salmon and Goose Cape is called Mal + Bay, within which are Cape Eagle, Murray Bay, Point au Ries, White + Cape, Red Cape, Black Cape, Point Père, Point Corneille, and Little + Mal Bay. In the rear of Goose Cape are Les Éboulemens Mountains, 2,547 + feet in height. On the opposite side of the river is Point Ouelle, and + the river of the same name. + +304. _Isle aux Coudres_, Hazel Island, so named by Jacques Cartier, still + retains its ancient appellation. Its distance from Goose Cape is about + two leagues. The description of it in the text is very accurate. + +305. _Rivière du Gouffre_. This river still retains this name, signifying + whirlpool, and is the same that empties into St. Paul's Bay, opposite + Isle-aux Coudres. + +306. _Cap de Tourmente_, cape of the tempest, is eight leagues from Isle + aux Coudres, but about two from the Isle of Orleans, as stated in the + text, which sufficiently identifies it. + +307. _Isle d'Orléans_. Cartier discovered this island in 1635, and named it + the Island of Bacchus, because he saw vines growing there, which he + had not before seen in that region. He says, "Et pareillement y + trouuasmes force vignes, ce que n'auyons veu par cy deuant à toute la + terre, & par ce la nommasmes l'ysle de Bacchus."--_Brief Récit de la + Navigation Faite en MDXXXV._, par Jacques Cartier, D'Avezac ed., + Paris, 1863, pp. 14, 15. The grape found here was probably the Frost + Grape, _Vitis cordifolia_. The "Island of Orleans" soon became the + fixed name of this island, which it still retains. Its Indian name is + said to have been _Minigo_.--_Vide_ Laverdière's interesting note, + _Oeuvres de Champlain_, Tome II, p. 24. Champlain's estimate of the + size of the island is nearly accurate. It is, according to the + Admiralty charts, seventeen marine miles in length, and four in its + greatest width. + +308. This was the river Montmorency, which rises in Snow Lake, some fifty + miles in the interior.--_Vide_ Champlain's reference on his map of + Quebec and its environs. He gave this name to the river, which it + still retains, in honor of the Admiral Montmorency, to whom he + dedicated his notes on the voyage of 1603.--_Vide Laverdière_, in + loco; also _Champlain_, ed. 1632; _Chiarlevoix's Letters_, London, + 1763, p. 19. The following is Jean Alfonse's description of the fall + of Montmorency: "When thou art come to the end of the Isle, thou shall + see a great River, which falleth fifteene or twenty fathoms downe from + a rocke, and maketh a terrible noyse."--_Hakluyt, Vol. III. p. 293. + The perpendicular descent of the Montmorency at the falls is 240 feet. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +ARRIVAL AT QUEBEC, WHERE WE CONSTRUCTED OUR PLACE OF ABODE; ITS SITUATION. +--CONSPIRACY AGAINST THE SERVICE OF THE KING AND MY LIFE. BY SOME OF OUR +MEN--PUNISHMENT OF THEM, AND ALL THAT TRANSPIRED OF THE AFFAIR. + + +From the Island of Orleans to Quebec the distance is a league. I arrived +there on the 3d of July, when I searched for a place suitable for our +settlement, but I could find none more convenient or better situated than +the point of Quebec, so called by the savages, [309] which was covered with +nut-trees. I at once employed a portion of our workmen in cutting them +down, that we might construct our habitation there: one I set to sawing +boards, another to making a cellar and digging ditches, another I sent to +Tadoussac with the barque to get supplies. The first thing we made was the +storehouse for keeping under cover our supplies, which was promptly +accomplished through the zeal of all, and my attention to the work. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +QUEBEC. + +_The figures indicate the fathoms of water_. + +_A_. The site where our habitation is built. [Note 1] +_B_. Cleared land where we sow wheat and other grain. [Note 2] +_C_. The gardens.[Note 3] +_D_. small brook coming from marshes. [Note 4] +_E_. River where Jacques Cartier passed the winter, which in his time he + called St. Croix, and which name has been transferred to a place + fifteen leagues above Quebec. [Note 5] +_F_. River of the marshes. [Note 6] +_G_. Place where was collected the grass for the animals brought here. + [Note 7] +_H_. The grand fall of Montmorency, which descends from a height of more + than twenty-five fathoms into the river. [Note 8] +_I_. The end of the Island of Orleans. +_L_. A very narrow point on the shore east of Quebec. [Note 9] +_M_. Roaring river which extends to the Etechemins. +_N_. The great river of St. Lawrence. +_O_. Lake in the roaring river. +_P_. Mountains in the interior; bay which I named New Biscay, +_q_. Lake of the great fall of Montmorency. [Note 10] +_R_. Bear Brook. [Note 11] +_S_. Brook du Gendre. [Note 12] +_T_. Meadows overflowed at every tide. +_V_. Mont du Gas, very high, situated on the bank of the river. [Note 13] +_X_. Swift brook, adapted to all kinds of mills. +_Y_. Gravelly shore where a quantity of diamonds are found somewhat better + than those of Alanson. +_Z_. The Point of Diamonds. +_9_. Places where the savages often build their cabins. [Note 14] + +NOTES. The following notes on Champlain's explanation of his map of Quebec +are by the Abbé Laverdière, whose accurate knowledge of that city and its +environs renders them especially valuable. They are given entire, with only +slight modifications. + +1. That is properly the point of Quebec, including what is at present + enclosed by La Place, the street Notre Dame, and the river. + +2. This first clearing must have been what was called later the Esplanade + du Fort, or Grande Place, or perhaps both. The Grande Place became, in + 1658, the fort of the Hurons: it was the space included between the Côte + of the lower town and the Rue du Fort. + +3. A little above the gardens, on the slope of the Côte du Saut au Matelot, + a cross is seen, which seems to indicate that at that time the cemetery + was where it is said to be when it is mentioned some years later for the + first time. + +4. According to the old plans of Quebec, these marshes were represented to + be west of Mont Carmel, and at the foot of the glacis of the Citadel. + The brook pulled eastward of the grounds of the Ursulines and Jésuites, + followed for some distance the Rue de la Fabrique as far as the + enclosure of the Hôtel Dieu, to the east of which it ran down the hill + towards the foot of the Côte de la Canoterie. + +5. The river St. Charles. The letter E does not indicate precisely the + place where Jacques Quartier wintered, but only the mouth of the river. + +6. Judging from the outlines of the shore, this brook, which came from the + south-west, flowed into the harbor of the Palais, towards the western + extremity of the Parc. + +7. This is probably what was called later the barn of the Messieurs de la + Compagnie, or simply La Grange, and appears to have been somewhere on + the avenue of Mont Carmel. + +8. The fall of Montmorency is forty fathoms or two hundred and forty French + feet, or even more. + +9. Hence it is seen that in 1613 this point had as yet no name. In 1629, + Champlain calls it Cap de Lévis: it can accordingly be concluded that + this point derives its name from that of the Duc de Ventadour, Henri de + Lévis, and that it must have been so named between the years 1625 and + 1627, the time when he was regent. + +10. The Lake of the Snows is the source of the western branch of the + Rivière du Saut. + +11. La Rivière de Beauport, which is called likewise La Distillerie. + +12. Called later Ruisseau de la Cabaneaux Taupiers. Rivière Chalisour, and + finally Rivière des Fous, from the new insane asylum, by the site of + which it now passes. + +13. Height where is now situated the bastion of the Roi à la Citadelle. + This name was given it, doubtless, in memory of M. de Monts, Pierre du + Guast. + +14. This figure appears not only at the Point du Cap Diamant, but also + along the shore of Beauport, and at the end of the Island of Orleans. + + * * * * * + +Some days after my arrival at Quebec, a locksmith conspired against the +service of the king. His plan was to put me to death, and, getting +possession of our fort, to put it into the hands of the Basques or +Spaniards, then at Tadoussac, beyond which vessels cannot go, from not +having a knowledge of the route, nor of the banks and rocks on the way. + +In order to execute his wretched plan, by which he hoped to make his +fortune, he suborned four of the worst characters, as he supposed, telling +them a thousand falsehoods, and presenting to them prospects of acquiring +riches. + +These four men, having been won over, all promised to act in such a manner +as to gain the rest over to their side; so that, for the time being, I had +no one with me in whom I could put confidence, which gave them still more +hope of making their plan succeed: for four or five of my companions, in +whom they knew that I put confidence, were on board of the barques, for the +purpose of protecting the provisions and supplies necessary for our +settlement. + +In a word, they were so skilful in carrying out their intrigues with those +who remained, that they were on the point of gaining all over to their +cause, even my lackey, promising them many things which they could not have +fulfilled. + +Being now all agreed, they made daily different plans as to how they should +put me to death, so as not to be accused of it, which they found to be a +difficult thing. But the devil, blindfolding them all and taking away their +reason and every possible difficulty, they determined to take me while +unarmed, and strangle me; or to give a false alarm at night, and shoot me +as I went out, in which manner they judged that they would accomplish their +work sooner than otherwise. They made a mutual promise not to betray each +other, on penalty that the first one who opened his mouth should be +poniarded. They were to execute their plan in four days, before the +arrival of our barques, otherwise they would have been unable to carry out +their scheme. + +On this very day, one of our barques arrived, with our pilot, Captain +Testu, a very discreet man. After the barque was unloaded, and ready to +return to Tadoussac, there came to him a locksmith, named Natel, an +associate of Jean du Val, the head of the conspiracy, who told him that he +had promised the rest to do just as they did; but that he did not in fact +desire the execution of the plot, yet did not dare to make a disclosure in +regard to it, from fear of being poniarded. + +Antoine Natel made the pilot promise that he would make no disclosure in +regard to what he should say, since, if his companions should discover it, +they would put him to death. The pilot gave him his assurance in all +particulars, and asked him to state the character of the plot which they +wished to carry out. This Natel did at length, when the pilot said to him: +"My friend, you have done well to disclose such a malicious design, and you +show that you are an upright man, and under the guidance of the Holy +Spirit. But these things cannot be passed by without bringing them to the +knowledge of Sieur de Champlain, that he may make provision against them; +and I promise you that I will prevail upon him to pardon you and the rest. +And I will at once," said the pilot, "go to him without exciting any +suspicion; and do you go about your business, listening to all they may +say, and not troubling yourself about the rest." + +The pilot came at once to me, in a garden which I was having prepared, and +said that he wished to speak to me in a private place, where we could be +alone. I readily assented, and we went into the wood, where he related to +me the whole affair. I asked who had told it to him. He begged me to pardon +him who had made the disclosure, which I consented to do, although he ought +to have addressed himself to me. He was afraid, he replied, that you would +become angry, and harm him. I told him that I was able to govern myself +better than that, in such a matter; and desired him to have the man come to +me, that I might hear his statement. He went, and brought him all trembling +with fear lest I should do him some harm. I reassured him, telling him not +to be afraid; that he was in a place of safety, and that I should pardon +him for all that he had done, together with the others, provided he would +tell me in full the truth in regard to the whole matter, and the motive +which had impelled them to it. "Nothing," he said, "had impelled them, +except that they had imagined that, by giving up the place into the hands +of the Basques or Spaniards, they might all become rich, and that they did +not want to go back to France." He also related to me the remaining +particulars in regard to their conspiracy. + +After having heard and questioned him, I directed him to go about his +work. Meanwhile, I ordered the pilot to bring up his shallop, which he +did. Then I gave two bottles of wine to a young man, directing him to say +to these four worthies, the leaders of the conspiracy, that it was a +present of wine, which his friends at Tadoussac had given him, and that he +wished to share it with them. This they did not decline, and at evening +were on board the barque where he was to give them the entertainment. I +lost no time in going there shortly after; and caused them to be seized, +and held until the next day. + +Then were my worthies astonished indeed. I at once had all get up, for it +was about ten o'clock in the evening, and pardoned them all, on condition +that they would disclose to me the truth in regard to all that had +occurred; which they did, when I had them retire. + +The next day I took the depositions of all, one after the other, in the +presence of the pilot and sailors of the vessel, which I had put down in +writing; and they were well pleased, as they said, since they had lived +only in fear of each other, especially of the four knaves who had ensnared +them. But now they lived in peace, satisfied, as they declared, with the +treatment which they had received. + +The same day I had six pairs of handcuffs made for the authors of the +conspiracy: one for our surgeon, named Bonnerme, one for another, named La +Taille, whom the four conspirators had accused, which, however, proved +false, and consequently they were given their liberty. + +This being done, I took my worthies to Tadoussac, begging Pont Gravé to do +me the favor of guarding them, since I had as yet no secure place for +keeping them, and as we were occupied in constructing our places of abode. +Another object was to consult with him, and others on the ship, as to what +should be done in the premises. We suggested that, after he had finished +his work at Tadoussac, he should come to Quebec with the prisoners, where +we should have them confronted with their witnesses, and, after giving them +a hearing, order justice to be done according to the offence which they had +committed. + +I went back the next day to Quebec, to hasten the completion of our +storehouse, so as to secure our provisions, which had been misused by all +those scoundrels, who spared nothing, without reflecting how they could +find more when these failed; for I could not obviate the difficulty until +the storehouse should be completed and shut up. + +Pont Gravé arrived some time after me, with the prisoners, which caused +uneasiness to the workmen who remained, since they feared that I should +pardon them, and that they would avenge themselves upon them for revealing +their wicked design. + +We had them brought face to face, and they affirmed before them all which +they had stated in their depositions, the prisoners not denying it, but +admitting that they had acted in a wicked manner, and should be punished, +unless mercy might be exercised towards them; accursing, above all, Jean du +Val, who had been trying to lead them into such a conspiracy from the time +of their departure from France. Du Val knew not what to say, except that he +deserved death, that all stated in the depositions was true, and that he +begged for mercy upon himself and the others, who had given in their +adherence to his pernicious purposes. + +After Pont Gravé and I, the captain of the vessel, surgeon, mate, second +mate, and other sailors, had heard their depositions and face to face +statements, we adjudged that it would be enough to put to death Du Val, as +the instigator of the conspiracy; and that he might serve as an example to +those who remained, leading them to deport themselves correctly in future, +in the discharge of their duty; and that the Spaniards and Basques, of whom +there were large numbers in the country, might not glory in the event. We +adjudged that the three others be condemned to be hung, but that they +should be taken to France and put into the hands of Sieur de Monts, that +such ample justice might be done them as he should recommend; that they +should be sent with all the evidence and their sentence, as well as that of +Jean du Val, who was strangled and hung at Quebec, and his head was put on +the end of a pike, to be set up in the most conspicuous place on our fort. + + +ENDNOTES: + +309. Champlain here plainly means to say that the Indians call the narrow + place in the river _Quebec_. For this meaning of the word, viz., + narrowing of waters, in the Algonquin language, the authority is + abundant. Laverdière quotes, as agreeing with him in this view, + Bellenger, Ferland, and Lescarbot. "The narrowing of the river," says + Charlevoix, "gave it the name of _Quebeio_ or _Quebec_, which in the + _Algonquin_ language signifies _contraction_. The Abenaquis, whose + language is a dialect of the Algonquin, call it Quelibec, which + signifies something shut up."--_Charlevoix's Letters_, pp. 18, 19. + Alfred Hawkins, in his "Historical Recollections of Quebec," regards + the word of Norman origin, which he finds on a seal of the Duke of + Suffolk, as early as 1420. The theory is ingenious: but it requires + some other characteristic historical facts to challenge our belief. + When Cartier visited Quebec, it was called by the natives Stadacone. + --_Vide Cartier's Brief Récit_, 1545, D'Avezac ed., Paris, 1863, + p. 14. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +RETURN OF PONT GRAVÉ TO FRANCE.--DESCRIPTION OF OUR QUARTERS AND THE PLACE +WHERE JACQUES CARTIER STAYED IN 1535. + + +After all these occurrences, Pont Gravé set out from Quebec, on the 18th of +September, to return to France with the three prisoners. After he had gone, +all who remained conducted themselves correctly in the discharge of their +duty. + +I had the work on our quarters continued, which was composed of three +buildings of two stories. Each one was three fathoms long, and two and a +half wide. The storehouse was six fathoms long and three wide, with a fine +cellar six feet deep. I had a gallery made all around our buildings, on the +outside, at the second story, which proved very convenient. There were +also ditches, fifteen feet wide and six deep. On the outer side of the +ditches, I constructed several spurs, which enclosed a part of the +dwelling, at the points where we placed our cannon. Before the habitation +there is a place four fathoms wide and six or seven long, looking out upon +the river-bank. Surrounding the habitation are very good gardens, and a +place on the north side some hundred or hundred and twenty paces long and +fifty or sixty wide. Moreover, near Quebec, there is a little river, coming +from a lake in the interior, [310] distant six or seven leagues from our +settlement. I am of opinion that this river, which is north a quarter +north-west from our settlement, is the place where Jacques Cartier +wintered, [311] since there are still, a league up the river, remains of +what seems to have been a chimney, the foundation of which has been found, +and indications of there having been ditches surrounding their dwelling, +which was small. We found, also, large pieces of hewn, worm-eaten timber, +and some three or four cannon-balls. All these things show clearly that +there was a settlement there founded by Christians; and what leads me to +say and believe that it was that of Jacques Cartier is the fact that there +is no evidence whatever that any one wintered and built a house in these +places except Jacques Cartier, at the time of his discoveries. This place, +as I think, must have been called St. Croix, as he named it; which name +has since been transferred to another place fifteen leagues west of our +settlement. But there is no evidence of his having wintered in the place +now called St. Croix, nor in any other there, since in this direction there +is no river or other place large enough for vessels except the main river +or that of which I spoke above; here there is half a fathom of water at low +tide, many rocks, and a bank at the mouth; for vessels, if kept in the main +river, where there are strong currents and tides, and ice in the winter, +drifting along, would run the risk of being lost; especially as there is a +sandy point extending out into the river, and filled with rocks, between +which we have found, within the last three years, a passage not before +discovered; but one must go through cautiously, in consequence of the +dangerous points there. This place is exposed to the north-west winds; a +half fathoms. There are no signs of buildings here, nor any indications +that a man of judgment would settle in this place, there being many other +better ones, in case one were obliged to make a permanent stay. I have been +desirous of speaking at length on this point, since many believe that the +abode of Jacques Cartier was here, which I do not believe, for the reasons +here given; for Cartier would have left to posterity a narrative of the +matter, as he did in the case of all he saw and discovered; and I maintain +that my opinion is the true one, as can be shown by the history which he +has left, in writing. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +ABITATION DE QUEBECQ. + +_A_. The storehouse. +_B_. Dove-cote. +_C_. A building where our arms are kept, and for lodging our workmen. +_D_. Another building for our workmen. +_E_. Dial. +_F_. Another building, comprising the blacksmith's shop and the lodgings of + the mechanics. +_G_. Galleries extending entirely round the dwellings. +_H_. The dwelling of Sieur de Champlain. +_I_. Gate to the habitation where there is a drawbridge. +_L_. Promenade about the habitation ten feet wide, extending to the border + of the moat. +_M_. Moat extending all round our habitation. +_N_. Platforms, of a tenaille form, for our cannon. +_O_. Garden of Sieur de Champlain. +_P_. The kitchen. +_Q_. Open space before the habitation on the bank of the river. +_R_. The great river St. Lawrence. + + * * * * * + +As still farther proof that this place now called St. Croix is not the +place where Jacques Cartier wintered, as most persons think, this is what +he says about it in his discoveries, taken from his history; namely, that +he arrived at the Isle aux Coudres on the 5th of December, [312] 1535, +which he called by this name, as hazel-nuts were found there. There is a +strong tidal current in this place; and he says that it is three leagues +long, but it is quite enough to reckon a league and a half. On the 7th of +the month, Notre Dame Day, [313] he set out from this island to go up the +river, in which he saw fourteen islands, distant seven or eight leagues +from Isle aux Coudres on the south. He errs somewhat in this estimation, +for it is not more than three leagues. [314] He also says that the place +where the islands are is the commencement of the land or province of +Canada, and that he reached an island ten leagues long and five wide, where +extensive fisheries are carried on, fish being here, in fact, very +abundant, especially the sturgeon. But its length is not more than six +leagues, and its breadth two; a fact well recognized now. He says also that +he anchored between this island and the main land on the north, the +smallest passage, and a dangerous one, where he landed two savages whom he +had taken to France, and that, after stopping in this place some time with +the people of the country, he sent for his barques and went farther up the +river, with the tide, seeking a harbor and place of security for his ships. +He says, farther, that they went on up the river, coasting along this +island, the length of which he estimates at ten leagues; and after it was +passed they found a very fine and pleasant bay, containing a little river +and bar harbor, which they found very favorable for sheltering their +vessels. This they named St. Croix, since he arrived there on this day; and +at the time of the voyage of Cartier the place was called Stadaca, [315] +but we now call it Quebec. He says, also, that after he had examined this +place he returned to get his vessels for passing the winter there. + +Now we may conclude, accordingly, that the distance is only five leagues +from the Isle aux Coudres to the Isle of Orleans, [316] at the western +extremity of which the river is very broad; and at which bay, as Cartier +calls it, there is no other river than that which he called St. Croix, a +good league distant from the Isle of Orleans, in which, at low tide, there +is only half a fathom of water. It is very dangerous for vessels at its +mouth, there being a large number of spurs; that is, rocks scattered here +and there. It is accordingly necessary to place buoys in order to enter, +there being, as I have stated, three fathoms of water at ordinary tides, +and four fathoms, or four and a half generally, at the great tides at full +flood. It is only fifteen hundred paces from our habitation, which is +higher up the river; and, as I have stated, there is no other river up to +the place now called St. Croix, where vessels can lie, there being only +little brooks. The shores are flat and dangerous, which Cartier does not +mention until the time that he sets out from St. Croix, now called Quebec, +where he left his vessels, and built his place of abode, as is seen from +what follows. + +On the 19th of September, he set out from St. Croix, where his vessels +were, setting sail with the tide up the river, which they found very +pleasant, as well on account of the woods, vines, and dwellings, which were +there in his time, as for other reasons. They cast anchor twenty-five +leagues from the entrance to the land of Canada; [317] that is, at the +western extremity of the Isle of Orleans, so called by Cartier. What is +now called St Croix was then called Achelacy, at a narrow pass where the +river is very swift and dangerous on account of the rocks and other things, +and which can only be passed at flood-tide. Its distance from Quebec and +the river where Cartier wintered is fifteen leagues. + +Now, throughout the entire extent of this river, from Quebec to the great +fall, there are no narrows except at the place now called St. Croix; the +name of which has been transferred from one place to another one, which is +very dangerous, as my description shows. And it is very apparent, from his +narrative, that this was not the site of his habitation, as is claimed; but +that the latter was near Quebec, and that no one had entered into a special +investigation of this matter before my doing so in my voyages. For the +first time I was told that he dwelt in this place, I was greatly +astonished, finding no trace of a river for vessels, as he states there +was. This led me to make a careful examination, in order to remove the +suspicion and doubt of many persons in regard to the matter. [318] + +While the carpenters, sawers of boards, and other workmen, were employed on +our quarters, I set all the others to work clearing up around our place of +abode, in preparation for gardens in which to plant grain and seeds, that +we might see how they would flourish, as the soil seemed to be very good. + +Meanwhile, a large number of savages were encamped in cabins near us, +engaged in fishing for eels, which begin to come about the 15th of +September, and go away on the 15th of October. During this time, all the +Savages subsist on this food, and dry enough of it for the winter to last +until the month of February, when there are about two and a half, or at +most three, feet of snow; and, when their eels and other things which they +dry have been prepared, they go to hunt the beaver until the beginning of +January. At their departure for this purpose, they intrusted to us all +their eels and other things, until their return, which was on the 15th of +December. But they did not have great success in the beaver-hunt, as the +amount of water was too great, the rivers having overrun their banks, as +they told us. I returned to them all their supplies, which lasted them only +until the 20th of January. When their supply of eels gave out, they hunted +the elk and such other wild beasts as they could find until spring, when I +was able to supply them with various things. I paid especial attention to +their customs. + +These people suffer so much from lack of food that they are sometimes +obliged to live on certain shell-fish, and eat their dogs and the skins +with which they clothe themselves against the cold. I am of opinion that, +if one were to show them how to live, and teach them the cultivation of the +soil and other things, they would learn very aptly. For many of them +possess good sense, and answer properly questions put to them. They have a +bad habit of taking vengeance, and are great liars, and you must not put +much reliance on them, except judiciously, and with force at hand. They +make promises readily, but keep their word poorly. The most of them observe +no law at all, so far as I have been able to see, and are, besides, full of +superstitions. I asked them with what ceremonies they were accustomed to +pray to their God, when they replied that they had none, but that each +prayed to him in his heart, as he wished. That is why there is no law among +them, and they do not know what it is to worship and pray to God, living as +they do like brute beasts. But I think that they would soon become good +Christians, if people would come and inhabit their country, which they are +for the most part desirous of. There are some savages among them, called by +them Pilotais, whom they believe have intercourse with the devil face to +face, who tells them what they must do in regard to war and other things; +and, if he should order them to execute any undertaking, they would obey at +once. So, also, they believe that all their dreams are true; and, in fact, +there are many who say that they have had visions and dreams about matters +which actually come to pass or will do so. But, to tell the truth, these +are diabolical visions, through which they are deceived and misled. This is +all I have been able to learn about their brutish faith. All these people +are well proportioned in body, without deformity, and are agile. The women, +also, are well-formed, plump, and of a swarthy color, in consequence of +certain pigments with which they rub themselves, and which give them a +permanent olive color. They are dressed in skins: a part only of the body +is covered. But in winter they are covered throughout, in good furs of elk, +otter, beaver, bear, seals, deer, and roe, of which they have large +quantities. In winter, when the snow is deep, they make a sort of snow-shoe +of large size, two or three times as large as that used in France, which +they attach to their feet, thus going over the snow without sinking in; +otherwise, they could not hunt or walk in many places. They have a sort of +marriage, which is as follows: When a girl is fourteen or fifteen years +old, and has several suitors, she may keep company with all she likes. At +the end of five or six years, she takes the one that pleases her for her +husband, and they live together to the end of their lives. But if, after +living some time together, they have no children, the man can disunite +himself and take another woman, alleging that his own is good for nothing. +Hence, the girls have greater freedom than the married women. + +After marriage, the women are chaste, and their husbands generally +jealous. They give presents to the fathers or relatives of the girls they +have wedded. These are the ceremonies and forms observed in their +marriages. In regard to their burials: When a man or a woman dies, they dig +a pit, in which they put all their property, as kettles, furs, axes, bows, +arrows, robes, and other things. Then they place the body in the pit and +cover it with earth, putting, on top many large pieces of wood, and another +piece upright, painted red on the upper part. They believe in the +immortality of the soul, and say that they shall be happy in other lands +with their relatives and friends who are dead. In the case of captains or +others of some distinction, they celebrate a banquet three times a year +after their death, singing and dancing about the grave. + +All the time they were with us, which was the most secure place for them, +they did not cease to fear their enemies to such an extent that they often +at night became alarmed while dreaming, and sent their wives and children +to our fort, the gates of which I had opened to them, allowing the men to +remain about the fort, but not permitting them to enter, for their persons +were thus as much in security as if they had been inside. I also had five +or six of our men go out to reassure them, and to go and ascertain whether +they could see any thing in the woods, in order to quiet them. They are +very timid and in great dread of their enemies, scarcely ever sleeping in +repose in whatever place they may be, although I constantly reassured them, +so far as I could, urging them to do as we did; namely, that they should +have a portion watch while the others slept, that each one should have his +arms in readiness like him who was keeping watch, and that they should not +regard dreams as the actual truth to be relied upon, since they are mostly +only false, to which I also added other words on the same subject. But +these remonstrances were of little avail with them, and they said that we +knew better than they how to keep guard against all things; and that they, +in course of time, if we continued to stay with them, would be able to +learn it. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +SEEDS AND VINES PLANTED AT QUEBEC.--COMMENCEMENT OF THE WINTER AND ICE.-- +EXTREME DESTITUTION OF CERTAIN INDIANS. + + +On the 1st of October, I had some wheat sown, and on the 15th some rye. On +the 3d, there was a white frost in some places, and the leaves of the trees +began to fall on the 15th. On the 24th, I had some native vines set out, +which flourished very well. But, after leaving the settlement to go to +France, they were all spoiled from lack of attention, at which I was much +troubled on my return. On the 18th of November, there was a great fall of +snow, which remained only two days on the ground, during which time there +was a violent gale of wind. There died during this month a sailor and our +locksmith [319] of dysentery, so also many Indians from eating eels badly +cooked, as I think. On the 5th of February, it snowed violently, and the +wind was high for two days. On the 20th, some Indians appeared on the other +side of the river, calling to us to go to their assistance, which was +beyond our power, on account of the large amount of ice drifting in the +river. Hunger pressed upon these poor wretches so severely that, not +knowing what to do, they resolved, men, women, and children, to cross the +river or die, hoping that I should assist them in their extreme want. +Having accordingly made this resolve, the men and women took the children +and embarked in their canoes, thinking that they could reach our shore by +an opening in the ice made by the wind; but they were scarcely in the +middle of the stream when their canoes were caught by the ice and broken +into a thousand pieces. But they were skilful enough to throw themselves +with the children, which the women carried on their backs, on a large piece +of ice. As they were on it, we heard them crying out so that it excited +intense pity, as before them there seemed nothing but death. But fortune +was so favorable to these poor wretches that a large piece of ice struck +against the side of that on which they were, so violently as to drive them +ashore. On seeing this favorable turn, they reached the shore with as much +delight as they ever experienced, notwithstanding the great hunger from +which they were suffering. They proceeded to our abode, so thin and haggard +that they seemed like mere skeletons, most of them not being able to hold +themselves up. I was astonished to see them, and observe the manner in +which they had crossed, in view of their being so feeble and weak. I +ordered some bread and beans to be given them. So great was their +impatience to eat them, that they could not wait to have them cooked. I +lent them also some bark, which other savages had given me, to cover their +cabins. As they were making their cabin, they discovered a piece of +carrion, which I had had thrown out nearly two months before to attract the +foxes, of which we caught black and red ones, like those in France, but +with heavier fur. This carrion consisted of a sow and a dog, which had +sustained all the rigors of the weather, hot and cold. When the weather was +mild, it stank so badly that one could not go near it. Yet they seized it +and carried it off to their cabin, where they forthwith devoured it half +cooked. No meat ever seemed to them to taste better. I sent two or three +men to warn them not to eat it, unless they wanted to die: as they +approached their cabin, they smelt such a stench from this carrion half +warmed up, each one of the Indians holding a piece in his hand, that they +thought they should disgorge, and accordingly scarcely stopped at all. +These poor wretches finished their repast. I did not fail, however, to +supply them according to my resources; but this was little, in view of the +large number of them. In the space of a month, they would have eaten up all +our provisions, if they had had them in their power, they are so +gluttonous: for, when they have edibles, they lay nothing aside, but keep +consuming them day and night without respite, afterwards dying of hunger. +They did also another thing as disgusting as that just mentioned. I had +caused a bitch to be placed on the top of a tree, which allured the martens +[320] and birds of prey, from which I derived pleasure, since generally +this carrion was attacked by them. These savages went to the tree, and, +being too weak to climb it, cut it down and forthwith took away the dog, +which was only skin and bones, the tainted head emitting a stench, but +which was at once devoured. + +This is the kind of enjoyment they experience for the most part in winter; +for in summer they are able to support themselves, and to obtain provisions +so as not to be assailed by such extreme hunger, the rivers abounding in +fish, while birds and wild animals fill the country about. The soil is very +good and well adapted for tillage, if they would but take pains to plant +Indian corn, as all their neighbors do, the Algonquins, Ochastaiguins, +[321] and Iroquois, who are not attacked by such extremes of hunger, which +they provide against by their carefulness and foresight, so that they live +happily in comparison with the Montagnais, Canadians, and Souriquois along +the seacoast. This is in the main their wretched manner of life. The show +and ice last three months there, from January to the 8th of April, when it +is nearly all melted: at the latest, it is only seldom that any is seen at +the end of the latter month at our settlement. It is remarkable that so +much snow and ice as there is on the river, and which is from two to three +fathoms thick, is all melted in less than twelve days. From Tadoussac to +Gaspé, Cape Breton, Newfoundland, and the Great Bay, the snow and ice +continue in most places until the end of May, at which time the entire +entrance of the great river is sealed with ice; although at Quebec there is +none at all, showing a strange difference for one hundred and twenty +leagues in longitude, for the entrance to the river is in latitude 49° 50' +to 51°, and our settlement [322] in 46° 40'. + + +ENDNOTES: + +310. The river St. Charles flows from a lake in the interior of the same + name. It was called by the Montagnais, according to Sagard as cited by + Laverdière, _in loco_, "Cabirecoubat, because it turns and forms + several points." Cartier named it the Holy Cross, or St. Croix, + because he says he arrived there "that day;" that is, the day on which + the exaltation of the Cross is celebrated, the 14th of September, + 1535.--_Vide Cartier_, Hakluyt, Vol. III. p. 266. The Récollects gave + it the name of St. Charles, after the grand vicar of Pontoise, Charles + des Boues.--_Laverdière, in loco_. Jacques Cartier wintered on the + north shore of the St. Charles, which he called the St. Croix, or the + Holy Cross, about a league from Quebec. "Hard by, there is, in that + river, one place very narrow, deep, and swift running, but it is not + passing the third part of a league, over against the which there is a + goodly high piece of land, with a towne therein: and the country about + it is very well tilled and wrought, and as good as possibly can be + seene. This is the place and abode of Donnacona, and of our two men we + took in our first voyage, it is called Stadacona ... under which towne + toward the North the river and port of the holy crosse is, where we + staied from the 15 of September until the 16 of May, 1536, and there + our ships remained dry as we said before."--_Vide Jacques Cartier, + Second Voyage_, Hakluyt, Vol. III. p. 277. + +311. The spot where Jacques Cartier wintered was at the junction of the + river Lairet and the St. Charles. + +312. Cartier discovered the Isle of Coudres, that is, the isle of filberts + or hazel-nuts, on the 6th of September, 1535.--_Vide Cartier_, 1545, + D'Avezac ed., Paris, 1863, p. 12. This island is five nautical miles + long, which agrees with the statement of Champlain, and its greatest + width, is two miles and a quarter. + +313. Notre Dame Day, _iour de nostre dame_, should read "Notre Dame Eve." + Cartier says, "Le septiesme iour dudict moys iour nostre-dame_," + etc.--_Idem_, p. 12. Hakluyt renders it, "The seventh of the moneth + being our Ladees even."--Vol. III. p. 265. + +314. As Champlain suggests, these islands are only three leagues higher up + the river; but, as they are on the opposite side, they could not be + compassed in much less than seven or eight leagues, as Cartier + estimates. + +315. This was an error in transcribing. Cartier has Stadacone.--_Vide Brief + Récit_, 1545, D'Avezac ed., p. 14. + +316. The distance, according to Laurie's Chart, is at least twenty-six + nautical miles. + +317. Canada at this time was regarded by the Indians as a limited + territory, situated at or about Quebec. This statement is confirmed by + the testimony of Cartier: "Ledict Donnacona pria nostre cappitaine de + aller le lendemain veoir Canada, Ce que luy promist le dist + cappitaine. Et le lendemam, 13. iour du diet moys, ledict cappitaine + auecques ses gentilz homines accompaigne de cinquante compaignons bien + en ordre, allerèt veoir ledict Donnacona & son peuple, qui est distà t + dou estoient lesdictes nauires d'une lieue."--_Vide Brief Récit_, + 1545, D'Avezac ed., p. 29. Of the above the following is Hakluyt's + translation: "Donnacona their Lord desired our Captaine the next day + to come and see Canada, which he promised to doe: for the next day + being the 13 of the moneth, he with all his Gentlemen and fiftie + Mariners very well appointed, went to visite Donnacona and his people, + about a league from our ships." + + Their ships were at this time at St. Croix, a short distance up the + St. Charles, which flows into the St. Lawrence at Quebec; and the + little Indian village, or camp, which Donnacona called Canada, was at + Quebec. Other passages from Cartier, as well as from Jean Alfonse, + harmonize with this which we have cited. Canada was therefore in + Cartier's time only the name of a very small territory covered by an + Indian village. When it became the centre of French interests, it + assumed a wider meaning. The St. Lawrence was often called the River + of Canada, then the territory on its shores, and finally Canada has + come to comprehend the vast British possessions in America known as + the "Dominion of Canada." + +318. The locality of Cartier's winter-quarters is established by Champlain + with the certainty of an historical demonstration, and yet there are + to be found those whose judgment is so warped by preconceived opinion + that they resist the overwhelming testimony which he brings to bear + upon the subject. Charlevoix makes the St. Croix of Cartier the + Rivière de Jacques Cartier.--_Vide Shea's Charlevoix_, Vol. I. p. 116. + +319. Unless they had more than one locksmith, this must have been Antoine + Natel.--_Vide antea_, p. 178. + +320. _Martres_. The common weasel, _Musltla vulgaris_. + +321. _Ochastaiguins_. This, says Laverdière, is what Champlain first called + the Hurons, from the name of Ochateguin, one of their chiefs. Huron + was a nickname: the proper name of this tribe was Wendot or + Wyandot. They occupied the eastern bank of Lake Huron and the southern + shores of the Georgian Bay. The knowledge of the several tribes here + referred to had been obtained by Champlain, partly from his own + observation and partly from the Indians. The Algommequins or + Algonquins, known at this time to Champlain, were from the region of + the Ottawa. The Yroquois or Iroquois dwelt south of the St. Lawrence + in the State of New York, and comprised what are generally known as + the Five Nations. The Montagnais or Montaignets had their great + trading-post at Tadoussac, and roamed over a vast territory north and + east of that point, and west of it as far as the mountains that + separate the waters of the Saguenay and those of the Ottawa. The name + was given to them by the French from this mountain range. The + Canadians were those about the neighborhood of Quebec. The Souriquois + were of Nova Scotia, and subsequently known as Micmacs. Of most of + these different tribes, Champlain could speak from personal knowledge. + +322. Laverdière gives the exact latitude of Quebec at the Observatory, on + the authority of Captain Bayfield, as 46° 49' 8". + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +THE SCURVY AT QUEBEC.--How THE WINTER PASSED.--DESCRIPTION OF THE PLACE.-- +ARRIVAL AT QUEBEC OF SIEUR DES MARAIS, SON-IN-LAW OF PONT GRAVÉ. + + +The scurvy began very late; namely, in February, and continued until the +middle of April. Eighteen were attacked, and ten died; five others dying of +the dysentery. I had some opened, to see whether they were tainted, like +those I had seen in our other settlements. They were found the same. Some +time after, our surgeon died. [323] All this troubled us very much, on +account of the difficulty we had in attending to the sick. The nature of +this disease I have described before. + +It is my opinion that this disease proceeds only from eating excessively of +salt food and vegetables, which heat the blood and corrupt the internal +parts. The winter is also, in part, its cause; since it checks the natural +warmth, causing a still greater corruption of the blood. There rise also +from the earth, when first cleared up, certain vapors which infect the air: +this has been observed in the case of those who have lived at other +settlements; after the first year when the sun had been let in upon what +was not before cleared up, as well in our abode as in other places, the air +was much better, and the diseases not so violent as before. But the country +is fine and pleasant, and brings to maturity all kinds of grains and feeds, +there being found all the various kinds of trees, which we have here in our +forests, and many fruits, although they are naturally wild; as, nut-trees, +cherry-trees, plum-trees, vines, raspberries, strawberries, currants, both +green and red, and several other small fruits, which are very good. There +are also several kinds of excellent plants and roots. Fishing is abundant +in the rivers; and game without limit on the numerous meadows bordering +them. From the month of April to the 15th of December, the air is so pure +and healthy that one does not experience the slightest indisposition. But +January, February, and March are dangerous, on account of the sicknesses +prevailing at this time, rather than in summer, for the reasons before +given; for, as to treatment, all of my company were well clothed, provided +with good beds, and well warmed and fed, that is, with the salt meats we +had, which, in my opinion, injured them greatly, as I have already stated. +As far as I have been able to see, the sickness attacks one who is delicate +in his living and takes particular care of himself as readily as one whose +condition is as wretched as possible. We supposed at first that the +workmen only would be attacked with this disease; but this we found was not +the case. Those sailing to the East Indies and various other regions, as +Germany and England, are attacked with it as well as in New France. Some +time ago, the Flemish, being attacked with this malady in their voyages to +the Indies, found a very strange remedy, which might be of service to us; +but we have never ascertained the character of it. Yet I am confident that, +with good bread and fresh meat, a person would not be liable to it. + +On the 8th of April, the snow had all melted; and yet the air was still +very cold until April, [324] when the trees begin to leaf out. + +Some of those sick with the scurvy were cured when Spring came, which is +the season for recovery. I had a savage of the country wintering with me, +who was attacked with this disease from having changed his diet to salt +meat; and he died from its effects, which clearly shows that salt food is +not nourishing, but quite the contrary in this disease. + +On the 5th of June, a shallop arrived at our settlement with Sieur des +Marais, a son-in-law of Pont Gravé, bringing us the tidings that his +father-in-law had arrived at Tadoussac on the 28th of May. This +intelligence gave me much satisfaction, as we entertained hopes of +assistance from him. Only eight out of the twenty-eight at first forming +our company were remaining, and half of these were ailing. + +On the 7th of June, I set out from Quebec for Tadoussac on some matters of +business, and asked Sieur des Marais to stay in my place until my return, +which he did. + +Immediately upon my arrival, Pont Gravé and I had a conference in regard to +some explorations which I was to make in the interior, where the savages +had promised to guide us. We determined that I should go in a Shallop with +twenty men, and that Pont Gravé should stay at Tadoussac to arrange the +affairs of our settlement; and this determination was carried out, he +spending the winter there. This arrangement was especially desirable, since +I was to return to France, according to the orders sent out by Sieur de +Monts, in order to inform him of what I had done and the explorations I had +made in the country. + +After this decision, I, set out at once from Tadoussac, and returned to +Quebec, where I had a shallop fitted out with all that was necessary for +making explorations in the country of the Iroquois, where I was to go with +our allies, the Montagnais. + + +ENDNOTES: + +323. His name was Bonnerme.--_Vide antea_, p. 180. + +324. Read May instead of April. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +DEPARTURE FROM QUEBEC AND VOYAGE TO THE ÎLE ST. ÉLOI.--MEETING THERE WITH +THE ALGONQUINS AND OCHATAIGUINS. + + +With this purpose, I set out on the 18th of the month. Here the river +begins to widen, in some places to the breadth of a league or a league and +a half. The country becomes more and more beautiful. There are hills along +the river in part, and in part it is a level country, with but few rocks. +The river itself is dangerous in many places, in consequence of its banks +and rocks; and it is not safe sailing without keeping the lead in hand. The +river is very abundant in many kinds of fish, not only such as we have +here, but others which we have not. The country is thickly covered with +massive and lofty forests, of the same kind of trees as we have about our +habitation. There are also many vines and nut-trees on the bank of the +river, and many small brooks and streams which are only navigable with +canoes. We passed near Point St. Croix, which many maintain, as I have said +elsewhere, is the place where Jacques Cartier spent the winter. This point +is sandy, extending some distance out into the river, and exposed to the +north-west wind, which beats upon it. There are some meadows, covered +however every full tide, which falls nearly two fathoms and a half. This +passage is very dangerous on account of the large number of rocks +stretching across the river, although there is a good but very winding +channel, where the river runs like a race, rendering it necessary to take +the proper time for passing. This place has deceived many, who thought +they could only pass at high tide from there being no channel: but we have +now found the contrary to be true, for one can go down at low tide; but it +would be difficult to ascend, in consequence of the strong current, unless +there were a good wind. It is consequently necessary to wait until the tide +is a third flood, in order to pass, when the current in the channel is six, +eight, ten, twelve, and fifteen fathoms deep. + +Continuing our course, we reached a very pleasant river, nine leagues +distant from St. Croix and twenty-four from Quebec. This we named +St. Mary's River. [325] The river all the way from St. Croix is very +pleasant. + +Pursuing our route, I met some two or three hundred savages, who were +encamped in huts near a little island called St. Éloi, [326] a league and a +half distant from St. Mary. We made a reconnoissance, and found that they +were tribes of savages, called Ochateguins and Algonquins, [327] on their +way to Quebec, to assist us in exploring the territory of the Iroquois, +with whom they are in deadly hostility, sparing nothing belonging to their +enemies. + +After reconnoitring, I went on shore to see them, and inquired who their +chief was. They told me there were two, one named Yroquet, and the other +Ochasteguin, whom they pointed out to me. I went to their cabin, where they +gave me a cordial reception, as is their custom. + +I proceeded to inform them of the object of my voyage, with which they were +greatly pleased. After some talk, I withdrew. Some time after, they came to +my shallop, and presented me with some peltry, exhibiting many tokens of +pleasure. Then they returned to the shore. + +The next day, the two chiefs came to see me, when they remained some time +without saying a word, meditating and smoking all the while. After due +reflection, they began to harangue in a loud voice all their companions who +were on the bank of the river, with their arms in their hands, and +listening very attentively to what their chiefs said to them, which was as +follows: that nearly ten moons ago, according to their mode of reckoning, +the son of Yroquet had seen me, and that I had given him a good reception, +and declared that Pont Gravé and I desired to assist them against their +enemies, with whom they had for a long time been at warfare, on account of +many cruel acts committed by them against their tribe, under color of +friendship; that, having ever since longed for vengeance, they had +solicited all the savages, whom I saw on the bank of the river, to come and +make an alliance with us, and that their never having seen Christians also +impelled them to come and visit us; that I should do with them and their +companions as I wished; that they had no children with them, but men versed +in war and full of courage, acquainted with the country and rivers in the +land of the Iroquois; that now they entreated me to return to our +settlement, that they might see our houses, and that, after three days, we +should all together come back to engage in the war; that, as a token of +firm friendship and joy, I should have muskets and arquebuses fired, at +which they would be greatly pleased. This I did, when they uttered great +cries of astonishment, especially those who had never heard nor seen the +like. + +After hearing them, I replied that, if they desired, I should be very glad +to return to our settlement, to gratify them still more; and that they +might conclude that I had no other purpose than to engage in the war, since +we carried with us nothing but arms, and not merchandise for barter, as +they had been given to understand; and that my only desire was to fulfill +what I had promised them; and that, if I had known of any who had made evil +reports to them, I should regard them as enemies more than they did +themselves. They told me that they believed nothing of them, and that they +never had heard any one speak thus. But the contrary was the case; for +there were some savages who told it to ours. I contented myself with +waiting for an opportunity to show them in fact something more than they +could have expected from me. + + +ENDNOTES: + +325. This river is now called the Sainte Anne. + +326. A small island near Batiscan, not on the charts. + +327. Hurons and Algonquins. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +RETURN TO QUEBEC.--CONTINUATION AFTERWARDS WITH THE SAVAGES TO THE FALL OF +THE RIVER OF THE IROQUOIS. + + +The next day, we set out all together for our settlement, where they +enjoyed themselves some five or six days, which were spent in dances and +festivities, on account of their eagerness for us to engage in the war. + +Pont Gravé came forthwith from Tadoussac with two little barques full of +men, in compliance with a letter, in which I I begged him to come as +speedily as possible. + +The savages seeing him arrive rejoiced more than ever, inasmuch as I told +them that he had given some of his men to assist them, and that perhaps we +should go together. + +On the 28th of the month, [328] we equipped some barques for assisting +these savages. Pont Gravé embarked on one and I on the other, when we all +set out together. The first of June, [329] we arrived at St. Croix, distant +fifteen leagues from Quebec, where Pont Gravé and I concluded that, for +certain reasons, I should go with the savages, and he to our settlement and +to Tadoussac. This resolution being taken, I embarked in my shallop all +that was necessary, together with Des Marais and La Routte, our pilot, and +nine men. + +I set out from St. Croix on the 3d of June [330] with all the savages. We +passed the Trois Rivières, a very beautiful country, covered with a growth +of fine trees. From this place to St. Croix is a distance of fifteen +leagues. At the mouth of the above-named river [331] there are six islands, +three of which are very small, the others some fifteen to sixteen hundred +paces long, very pleasant in appearance. Near Lake St. Peter, [332] some +two leagues up the river, there is a little fall not very difficult to +pass. This place is in latitude 46°, lacking some minutes. The savages of +the country gave us to understand that some days' journey up this river +there is a lake, through which the river flows. The length of the lake is +ten days' journey, when some falls are passed, and afterwards three or four +other lakes of five or six days' journey in length. Having reached the end +of these, they go four or five leagues by land, and enter still another +lake, where the Sacqué has its principal source. From this lake, the +savages go to Tadoussac. [333] The Trois Rivières extends forty days' +journey of the savages. They say that at the end of this river there is a +people, who are great hunters, without a fixed abode, and who are less than +six days' journey from the North Sea. What little of the country I have +seen is sandy, very high, with hills, covered with large quantities of pine +and fir on the river border; but some quarter of a league inland the woods +are very fine and open, and the country level. Thence we continued our +course to the entrance of Lake St. Peter, where the country is exceedingly +pleasant and level, and crossed the lake, in two, three, and four fathoms +of water, which is some eight leagues long and four wide. On the north +side, we saw a very pleasant river, extending some twenty leagues into the +interior, which I named St. Suzanne; on the south side, there are two, one +called Rivière du Pont, the other, Rivière de Gennes, [334] which are very +pretty, and in a fine and fertile country. The water is almost still in the +lake, which is full of fish. On the north bank, there are seen some slight +elevations at a distance of some twelve or fifteen leagues from the lake. +After crossing the lake, we passed a large number of islands of various +sizes, containing many nut-trees and vines, and fine meadows, with +quantities of game and wild animals, which go over from the main land to +these islands. Fish are here more abundant than in any other part of the +river that we had seen. From these islands, we went to the mouth of the +River of the Iroquois, where we stayed two days, refreshing ourselves with +good venison, birds, and fish, which the savages gave us. Here there sprang +up among them some difference of opinion on the subject of the war, so that +a portion only determined to go with me, while the others returned to their +country with their wives and the merchandise which they had obtained by +barter. + +Setting out from the mouth of this river, which is some four hundred to +five hundred paces broad, and very beautiful, running southward, [335] we +arrived at a place in latitude 45°, and twenty-two or twenty-three leagues +from the Trois Rivières. All this river from its mouth to the first fall, +a distance of fifteen leagues, is very smooth, and bordered with woods, +like all the other places before named, and of the same forts. There are +nine or ten fine islands before reaching the fall of the Iroquois, which +are a league or a league and a half long, and covered with numerous oaks +and nut-trees. The river is nearly half a league wide in places, and very +abundant in fish. We found in no place less than four feet of water. The +approach to the fall is a kind of lake, [336] where the water descends, and +which is some three leagues in circuit. There are here some meadows, but +not inhabited by savages on account of the wars. There is very little water +at the fall, which runs with great rapidity. There are also many rocks and +stones, so that the savages cannot go up by water, although they go down +very easily. All this region is very level, covered with forests, vines, +and nut-trees. No Christians had been in this place before us; and we had +considerable difficulty in ascending the river with oars. + +As soon as we had reached the fall, Des Marais, La Routte, and I, with five +men, went on shore to see whether we could pass this place; but we went +some league and a half without seeing any prospect of being able to do so, +finding only water running with great swiftness, and in all directions many +stones, very dangerous, and with but little water about them. The fall is +perhaps six hundred paces broad. Finding that it was impossible to cut a +way through the woods with the small number of men that I had, I +determined, after consultation with the rest, to change my original +resolution, formed on the assurance of the savages that the roads were +easy, but which we did not find to be the case, as I have stated. We +accordingly returned to our shallop, where I had left some men as guards, +and to indicate to the savages upon their arrival that we had gone to make +explorations along the fall. + +After making what observations I wished in this place, we met, on +returning, some savages, who had come to reconnoitre, as we had done. They +told us that all their companions had arrived at our shallop, where we +found them greatly pleased, and delighted that we had gone in this manner +without a guide, aided only by the reports they had several times made to +us. + +Having returned, and seeing the slight prospect there was of passing the +fall with our shallop, I was much troubled. And it gave me especial +dissatisfaction to go back without seeing a very large lake, filled with +handsome islands, and with large tracts of fine land bordering on the lake, +where their enemies live according to their representations. After duly +thinking over the matter, I determined to go and fulfil my promise, and +carry out my desire. Accordingly, I embarked with the savages in their +canoes, taking with me two men, who went cheerfully. After making known my +plan to Des Marais and others in the shallop, I requested the former to +return to our settlement with the rest of our company, giving them the +assurance that, in a short time, by God's' grace, I would return to them. + +I proceeded forthwith to have a conference with the captains of the +savages, and gave them to understand that they had told me the opposite of +what my observations found to be the case at the fall; namely, that it was +impossible to pass it with the shallop, but that this would not prevent me +from assisting them as I had promised. This communication troubled them +greatly; and they desired to change their determination, but I urged them +not to do so, telling them that they ought to carry out their first plan, +and that I, with two others, would go to the war with them in their canoes, +in order to show them that, as for me, I would not break my word given to +them, although alone; but that I was unwilling then to oblige any one of my +companions to embark, and would only take with me those who had the +inclination to go, of whom I had found two. + +They were greatly pleased at what I said to them, and at the determination +which I had taken, promising, as before, to show me fine things. + + +ENDNOTES: + +328. The reader will observe that this must have been the 28th of June, + 1609. + +329. Read 1st of July. + +330. Read 3d of July. + +331. The river is now called St. Maurice; and the town at its mouth, Three + Rivers. Two islands at the mouth of the river divide it into three; + hence, it was originally called Trois Rivières, or Three Rivers. + +332. Laverdière suggests that Champlain entered this lake, now for the + first time called St. Peter, in 1603, on St. Peter's day, the 29th + June, and probably so named it from that circumstance. + +333. From the carrying-place they enter the Lake St. John, and from it + descend by the Saguenay to Tadoussac. In the preceding passage, Sacqué + was plainly intended for Saguenay. + +334. Of the three rivers flowing into Lake St. Peter, none retains the name + given to them by Champlain. His _St. Suzanne_ is the river du Loup; + his _Rivière du Pont_ is the river St. François; and his _De Gennes_ + is now represented by the Yamaska. Compare Champlain's map of 1612 + with Laurie's Chart of the river St. Lawrence. + +335. This is an error: the River of the Iroquois, now commonly known as the + Richelieu, runs towards the north. + +336. The Chambly Basin. On Charlevoix's Carte de la Rivière Richelieu, it + is called Bassin de St. Louis. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +DEPARTURE FROM THE FALL OF THE IROQUOIS RIVER.--DESCRIPTION OF A LARGE +LAKE.--ENCOUNTER WITH THE ENEMY AT THIS LAKE; THEIR MANNER OF ATTACKING THE +IROQUOIS, AND THEIR BEHAVIOR IN BATTLE. + + +I set out accordingly from the fall of the Iroquois River [337] on the 2d +of July. [338] All the savages set to carrying their canoes, arms, and +baggage overland, some half a league, in order to pass by the violence and +strength of the fall, which was speedily accomplished. Then they put them +all in the water again, two men in each with the baggage; and they caused +one of the men of each canoe to go by land some three leagues, [339] the +extent of the fall, which is not, however, so violent here as at the mouth, +except in some places, where rocks obstruct the river, which is not broader +than three hundred or four hundred paces. After we had passed the fall, +which was attended with difficulty, all the savages, who had gone by land +over a good path and level country, although there are a great many trees, +re-embarked in their canoes. My men went also by land; but I went in a +canoe. The savages made a review of all their followers, finding that there +were twenty-four canoes, with sixty men. After the review was completed, we +continued our course to an island, [340] three leagues long, filled with +the finest pines I had ever seen. Here they went hunting, and captured +some wild animals. Proceeding about three leagues farther on, we made a +halt, in order to rest the coming night. + +They all at once set to work, some to cut wood, and others to obtain the +bark of trees for covering their cabins, for the sake of sheltering +themselves, others to fell large trees for; constructing a barricade on the +river-bank around their cabins, which they do so quickly that in less than +two hours so much is accomplished that five hundred of their enemies would +find it very difficult to dislodge them without killing large numbers. They +make no barricade on the river-bank, where their canoes are drawn up, in +order that they may be able to embark, if occasion requires. After they +were established in their cabins, they despatched three canoes, with nine +good men, according to their custom in all their encampments, to +reconnoitre for a distance of two or three leagues, to see if they can +perceive any thing, after which they return. They rest the entire night, +depending upon the observation of these scouts, which is a very bad custom +among them; for they are sometimes while sleeping surprised by their +enemies, who slaughter them before they have time to get up and prepare for +defence. Noticing this, I remonstrated with them on the mistake they made, +and told them that they ought to keep watch, as they had seen us do every +night, and have men on the lookout, in order to listen and see whether they +perceived any thing, and that they should not live in such a manner like +beasts. They replied that they could not keep watch, and that they worked +enough in the day-time in the chase, since, when engaged in war, they +divide their troops into three parts: namely, a part for hunting scattered +in several places; another to constitute the main body of their army, which +is always under arms; and the third to act as _avant-coureurs_, to look out +along the rivers, and observe whether they can see any mark or signal +showing where their enemies or friends have passed. This they ascertain by +certain marks which the chiefs of different tribes make known to each +other; but, these not continuing always the same, they inform themselves +from time to time of changes, by which means they ascertain whether they +are enemies or friends who have passed. The hunters never hunt in advance +of the main body, or _avant-coureurs_, so as not to excite alarm or produce +disorder, but in the rear and in the direction from which they do not +anticipate their enemy. Thus they advance until they are within two or +three days' march of their enemies, when they proceed by night stealthily +and all in a body, except the _van-couriers_. By day, they withdraw into +the interior of the woods, where they rest, without straying off, neither +making any noise nor any fire, even for the sake of cooking, so as not to +be noticed in case their enemies should by accident pass by. They make no +fire, except in smoking, which amounts to almost nothing. They eat baked +Indian meal, which they soak in water, when it becomes a kind of porridge. +They provide themselves with such meal to meet their wants, when they are +near their enemies, or when retreating after a charge, in which case they +are not inclined to hunt, retreating immediately. + +In all their encampments, they have their Pilotois, or Ostemoy, [341] a +class of persons who play the part of soothsayers, in whom these people +have faith. One of these builds a cabin, surrounds it with small pieces of +wood, and covers it with his robe: after it is built, he places himself +inside, so as not to be seen at all, when he seizes and shakes one of the +posts of his cabin, muttering some words between his teeth, by which he +says he invokes the devil, who appears to him in the form of a stone, and +tells him whether they will meet their enemies and kill many of them. This +Pilotois lies prostrate on the ground, motionless, only speaking with the +devil: on a sudden, he rises to his feet, talking, and tormenting himself +in such a manner that, although naked, he is all of a perspiration. All the +people surround the cabin, seated on their buttocks, like apes. They +frequently told me that the shaking of the cabin, which I saw, proceeded +from the devil, who made it move, and not the man inside, although I could +see the contrary; for, as I have stated above, it was the Pilotois who took +one of the supports of the cabin, and made it move in this manner. They +told me also that I should see fire come out from the top, which I did not +see at all. These rogues counterfeit also their voice, so that it is heavy +and clear, and speak in a language unknown to the other savages. And, when +they represent it as broken, the savages think that the devil is speaking, +and telling them what is to happen in their war, and what they must do. + +But all these scapegraces, who play the soothsayer, out of a hundred words, +do not speak two that are true, and impose upon these poor people. There +are enough like them in the world, who take food from the mouths of the +people by their impostures, as these worthies do. I often remonstrated with +the people, telling them that all they did was sheer nonsense, and that +they ought not to put confidence in them. + +Now, after ascertaining from their soothsayers what is to be their fortune, +the chiefs take sticks a foot long, and as many as there are soldiers. They +take others, somewhat larger, to indicate the chiefs. Then they go into the +wood, and seek out a level place, five or fix feet square, where the chief, +as sergeant-major, puts all the sticks in such order as seems to him best. +Then he calls all his companions, who come all armed; and he indicates to +them the rank and order they are to observe in battle with their enemies. +All the savages watch carefully this proceeding, observing attentively the +outline which their chief has made with the sticks. Then they go away, and +set to placing themselves in such order as the sticks were in, when they +mingle with each other, and return again to their proper order, which +manoeuvre they repeat two or three times, and at all their encampments, +without needing a sergeant to keep them in the proper order, which they are +able to keep accurately without any confusion. This is their rule in war. + +We set out on the next day, continuing our course in the river as far as +the entrance of the lake. There are many pretty islands here, low, and +containing very fine woods and meadows, with abundance of fowl and such +animals of the chase as stags, fallow-deer, fawns, roe-bucks, bears, and +others, which go from the main land to these islands. We captured a large +number of these animals. There are also many beavers, not only in this +river, but also in numerous other little ones that flow into it. These +regions, although they are pleasant, are not inhabited by any savages, on +account of their wars; but they withdraw as far as possible from the rivers +into the interior, in order not to be suddenly surprised. + +The next day we entered the lake, [342] which is of great extent, say +eighty or a hundred leagues long, where I saw four fine islands, ten, +twelve, and fifteen leagues long, which were formerly inhabited by the +savages, like the River of the Iroquois; but they have been abandoned since +the wars of the savages with one another prevail. There are also many +rivers falling into the lake, bordered by many fine trees of the same kinds +as those we have in France, with many vines finer than any I have seen in +any other place; also many chestnut-trees on the border of this lake, which +I had not seen before. There is also a great abundance of fish, of many +varieties: among others, one called by the savages of the country +_Chaousarou_ [343] which varies in length, the largest being, as the people +told me, eight or ten feet long. I saw some five feet long, which were as +large as my thigh; the head being as big as my two fists, with a snout two +feet and a half long, and a double row of very sharp and dangerous teeth. +Its body is, in shape, much like that of a pike; but it is armed with +scales so strong that a poniard could not pierce them. Its color is +silver-gray. The extremity of its snout is like that of a swine. This fish +makes war upon all others in the lakes and rivers. It also possesses +remarkable dexterity, as these people informed me, which is exhibited in +the following manner. When it wants to capture birds, it swims in among the +rushes, or reeds, which are found on the banks of the lake in several +places, where it puts its snout out of water and keeps perfectly still: so +that, when the birds come and light on its snout, supposing it to be only +the stump of a tree, it adroitly closes it, which it had kept ajar, and +pulls the birds by the feet down under water. The savages gave me the head +of one of them, of which they make great account, saying that, when they +have the headache, they bleed themselves with the teeth of this fish on the +spot where they suffer pain, when it suddenly passes away. + +Continuing our course over this lake on the western side, I noticed, while +observing the country, some very high mountains on the eastern side, on the +top of which there was snow. [344] I made inquiry of the savages whether +these localities were inhabited, when they told me that the Iroquois dwelt +there, and that there were beautiful valleys in these places, with plains +productive in grain, such as I had eaten in this country, together with +many kinds of fruit without limit. [345] They said also that the lake +extended near mountains, some twenty-five leagues distant from us, as I +judge. I saw, on the south, other mountains, no less high than the first, +but without any snow. [346] The savages told me that these mountains were +thickly settled, and that it was there we were to find their enemies; but +that it was necessary to pass a fall in order to go there (which I +afterwards saw), when we should enter another lake, nine or ten leagues +long. After reaching the end of the lake, we should have to go, they said, +two leagues by land, and pass through a river flowing into the sea on the +Norumbegue coast, near that of Florida, [347] whither it took them only two +days to go by canoe, as I have since ascertained from some prisoners we +captured, who gave me minute information in regard to all they had personal +knowledge of, through some Algonquin interpreters, who understood the +Iroquois language. + +Now, as we began to approach within two or three days' journey of the abode +of their enemies, we advanced only at night, resting during the day. But +they did not fail to practise constantly their accustomed superstitions, in +order to ascertain what was to be the result of their undertaking; and they +often asked me if I had had a dream, and seen their enemies, to which I +replied in the negative. Yet I did not cease to encourage them, and inspire +in them hope. When night came, we set out on the journey until the next +day, when we withdrew into the interior of the forest, and spent the rest +of the day there. About ten or eleven o'clock, after taking a little walk +about our encampment, I retired. While sleeping, I dreamed that I saw our +enemies, the Iroquois, drowning in the lake near a mountain, within sight. +When I expressed a wish to help them, our allies, the savages, told me we +must let them all die, and that they were of no importance. When I awoke, +they did not fail to ask me, as usual, if I had had a dream. I told them +that I had, in fact, had a dream. This, upon being related, gave them so +much confidence that they did not doubt any longer that good was to happen +to them. + +When it was evening, we embarked in our canoes to continue our course; and, +as we advanced very quietly and without making any noise, we met on the +29th of the month the Iroquois, about ten o'clock at evening, at the +extremity of a cape which extends into the lake on the western bank. They +had come to fight. We both began to utter loud cries, all getting their +arms in readiness. We withdrew out on the water, and the Iroquois went on +shore, where they drew up all their canoes close to each other and began to +fell trees with poor axes, which they acquire in war sometimes, using also +others of stone. Thus they barricaded themselves very well. + +Our forces also passed the entire night, their canoes being drawn up close +to each other, and fastened to poles, so that they might not get separated, +and that they might be all in readiness to fight, if occasion required. We +were out upon the water, within arrow range of their barricades. When they +were armed and in array, they despatched two canoes by themselves to the +enemy to inquire if they wished to fight, to which the latter replied that +they wanted nothing else; but they said that, at present, there was not +much light, and that it would be necessary to wait for daylight, so as to +be able to recognize each other; and that, as soon as the sun rose, they +would offer us battle. This was agreed to by our side. Meanwhile, the +entire night was spent in dancing and singing, on both sides, with endless +insults and other talk; as, how little courage we had, how feeble a +resistance we would make against their arms, and that, when day came, we +should realize it to our ruin. Ours also were not slow in retorting, +telling them they would see such execution of arms as never before, +together with an abundance of such talk as is not unusual in the siege of a +town. After this singing, dancing, and bandying words on both sides to the +fill, when day came, my companions and myself continued under cover, for +fear that the enemy would see us. We arranged our arms in the best manner +possible, being, however, separated, each in one of the canoes of the +savage Montagnais. After arming ourselves with light armor, we each took an +arquebuse, and went on shore. I saw the enemy go out of their barricade, +nearly two hundred in number, stout and rugged in appearance. They came at +a slow pace towards us, with a dignity and assurance which greatly amused +me, having three chiefs at their head. Our men also advanced in the same +order, telling me that those who had three large plumes were the chiefs, +and that they had only these three, and that they could be distinguished by +these plumes, which were much larger than those of their companions, and +that I should do what I could to kill them. I promised to do all in my +power, and said that I was very sorry they could not understand me, so that +I might give order and shape to their mode of attacking their enemies, and +then we should, without doubt, defeat them all; but that this could not now +be obviated, and that I should be very glad to show them my courage and +good-will when we should engage in the fight. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OP THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +DEFEAT OF THE IROQUOIS AT LAKE CHAMPLAIN. + +_A_. The fort of the Iroquois. +_B_. The enemy. +_C_. Canoes of the enemy, made of oak bark, each holding ten, fifteen, or + eighteen men. +_D_. Two chiefs who were killed. +_E_. One of the enemy wounded by a musket-shot of Sieur de Champlain. +_F_. Sieur de Champlain. +_G_. Two musketeers of Sieur de Champlain. +_H_. Montagnais, Ochastaiguins, and Algonquins. +_I_. Canoes of our allied savages made of birch bark. +_K_. The woods. + +NOTES. The letters _A_, _F_, _G_, and _K_, are wanting but the objects to +which they point are easily recognized. The letter _H_ has been placed on +the canoes of the allies instead of the collected body of the allies +immediately above them. + + * * * * * + +As soon as we had landed, they began to run for some two hundred paces +towards their enemies, who stood firmly, not having as yet noticed my +companions, who went into the woods with some savages. Our men began to +call me with loud cries; and, in order to give me a passage-way, they +opened in two parts, and put me at their head, where I marched some twenty +paces in advance of the rest, until I was within about thirty paces of the +enemy, who at once noticed me, and, halting, gazed at me, as I did also at +them. When I saw them making a move to fire at us, I rested my musket +against my cheek, and aimed directly at one of the three chiefs. With the +same shot, two fell to the ground; and one of their men was so wounded that +he died some time after. I had loaded my musket with four balls. When our +side saw this shot so favorable for them, they began to raise such loud +cries that one could not have heard it thunder. Meanwhile, the arrows flew +on both sides. The Iroquois were greatly astonished that two men had been +so quickly killed, although they were equipped with armor woven from cotton +thread, and with wood which was proof against their arrows. This caused +great alarm among them. As I was loading again, one of my companions fired +a shot from the woods, which astonished them anew to such a degree that, +seeing their chiefs dead, they lost courage, and took to flight, abandoning +their camp and fort, and fleeing into the woods, whither I pursued them, +killing still more of them. Our savages also killed several of them, and +took ten or twelve prisoners. The remainder escaped with the wounded. +Fifteen or sixteen were wounded on our side with arrow-shots; but they were +soon healed. + +After gaining the victory, our men amused themselves by taking a great +quantity of Indian corn and some meal from their enemies, also their armor, +which they had left behind that they might run better. After feasting +sumptuously, dancing and singing, we returned three hours after, with the +prisoners. The spot where this attack took place is in latitude 43° and +some minutes, [348] and the lake was called Lake Champlain. [349] + +ENDNOTES: + +337. The River of the Iroquois, so called by Champlain, was long known by + that name, says Charlevoix, because these Indians generally descended + it, in order to make their inroads into the colony. Fort Richelieu, at + the mouth of the river, erected in 1641, was named after the + celebrated Cardinal, the river having already taken his name. This + fort having been demolished, another was built by M. de Sorel, a + French officer in command, which took his name, as likewise did the + river. A fort was built on the same river at the present village of + Chambly in 1664, and called Fort St. Louis. This wooden structure was + replaced by another of stone, erected prior to 1721, to which the name + of Chambly was given, as likewise by some writers to the river. The + river has likewise sometimes been called the St. Johns, but the + prevailing name is the Richelieu. + +338. Read the 12th of July. + +339. This fall is now avoided, and the navigation of the Richelieu secured + by a canal connecting Chambly Basin and St. Johns, a distance of about + ten miles. + +340. It is not entirely certain what island is here referred to. It has + been supposed to be the Island of St. Thérèse. But, taking all of + Champlain's statements into consideration, the logical inference would + be that it is the Isle aux Noix. + +341. "These two words were used in Acadie to indicate the _jongleur_, or + sorcerer. The word _pilotois_, according to P. Biard, Rel. 1611, + p. 17, came from the Basques, the Souriquois using the word _autmoin_, + which Lescarbot writes _aoutmoin_, and Champlain _ostemoy_. + P. Lejeune, in the Relation of 1636, p. 13, informs us that the + Montagnais called their Sorcerers _manitousiouekbi_: and according to + P. Brébeuf. Rel. 1635. p.35. the Hurons designated theirs by the name + _arendiouane_."--_Laverdière, in loco_. + +342. The distances are here overstated by more than threefold, both in + reference to the lake and the islands. This arose, perhaps, from the + slow progress made in the birch canoes with a party of sixty + undisciplined savages, a method of travelling to which Champlain was + unaccustomed; and he may likewise have been misled by the + exaggerations of the Indians, or he may have sailed to comprehend + their representation of distances. + +343. Of the meaning of _chaousarou_, the name given by the Indians to this + fish, we have no knowledge. It is now known as the bony-scaled pike, + or gar pike, _Lepidosteus osseus_. It is referred to by several early + writers after Champlain. + + "I saw," says Sagard, "in the cabin of a Montagnais Indian a certain + fish, which some call Chaousarou, as big as a large pike. It was only + an ordinary sized one, for many larger ones are seen, eight, nine, and + ten feet long, as is said. It had a snout about a foot and a half + long, of about the same shape as that of the snipe, except that the + extremity is blunt and not so pointed, and of a large size in + proportion to the body. It has a double row of teeth, which are very + sharp and dangerous;... and the form of the body is like that of a + pike, but it is armed with very stout and hard scales, of silver gray + color, and difficult to be pierced."--_Sagard's History of Canada_, + Bk. _iii_. p. 765; _Laverdière_. Sagard's work was published in 1636. + He had undoubtedly seen this singular fish; but his description is so + nearly in the words of Champlain as to suggest that he had taken it + from our author. + + Creuxius, in his History of Canada, published at Paris in 1664, + describes this fish nearly in the words of Champlain, with an + engraving sufficiently accurate for identification, but greatly + wanting in scientific exactness. He adds, "It is not described by + ancient authors, probably because it is only found in the Lake of the + Iroquois;" that is, in Lake Champlain. From which it may be inferred + that at that time it had not been discovered in other waters. By the + French, he says, it is called _piscis armatus_. This is in evident + allusion to its bony scales, in which it is protected as in a coat of + mail. + + It is described by Dr. Kay in the Natural History of New York, + Zoölogy, Part I. p 271. On Plate XLIII. Fig. 139, of the same work, + the reader will observe that the head of the fish there represented + strikingly resembles that of the chaousarou of Champlain as depicted + on his map of 1612. The drawing by Champlain is very accurate, and + clearly identifies the Gar Pike. This singular fish has been found in + Lake Champlain, the river St. Lawrence, and in the northern lakes, + likewise in the Mississippi River, where is to be found also a closely + related species commonly called the alligator gar. In the Museum of + the Boston Society of Natural History are several specimens, one of + them from St. John's River, Florida, four feet and nine inches in + length, of which the head is seventeen and a half inches. If the body + of those seen by Champlain was five feet, the head two and a half feet + would be in about the usual proportion. + +344. The Green Mountain range in Vermont, generally not more than twenty or + twenty-five miles distant. Champlain was probably deceived as to the + snow on their summits in July. What he saw was doubtless white + limestone, which might naturally enough be taken for snow in the + absence of any positive knowledge. The names of the summits visible + from the lake are the following, with their respective heights. The + Chin, 4,348 feet; The Nose, 4,044; Camel's Hump, 4,083; Jay's Peak, + 4,018; Killington Peak, 3,924. This region was at an early period + called _Irocosia_. + +345. This is not an inaccurate description of the beautiful as well as rich + and fertile valleys to be found among the hills of Vermont. + +346. On entering the lake, they saw the Adirondack Mountains, which would + appear very nearly in the south. The points visible from the lake were + Mt. Marcy, 5,467 feet high above tide-water; Dix's Peak, 5,200; Nipple + Top, 4,900; Whiteface, 4,900; Raven Hill, 2,100; Bald Peak, 2,065.-- + _Vide Palmer's Lake Champlain_, p. 12. + +347. The river here referred to is the Hudson. By passing from Lake + Champlain through the small stream that connects it with Lake George, + over this latter lake and a short carrying place, the upper waters of + the Hudson are reached. The coast of Norumbegue and that of Florida + were both indefinite regions, not well defined by geographers of that + day. These terms were supplied by Champlain, and not by his + informants. He could not of course tell precisely where this unknown + river reached the sea, but naturally inferred that it was on the + southern limit of Norumbegue, which extended from the Penobscot + towards Florida, which latter at that time was supposed to extend from + the Gulf of Mexico indefinitely to the north. + +348. This battle, or Skirmish, clearly took place at Ticonderoga, or + _Cheonderoga_, as the Indians called it, where a cape juts out into + the lake, as described by Champlain. This is the logical inference to + be drawn from the whole narrative. It is to be observed that the + purpose of the Indians, whom Champlain was accompanying, was to find + their enemies, the Iroquois, and give them battle. The journey, or + warpath, had been clearly marked out and described by the Indians to + Champlain, as may be seen in the text. It led them along the western + shore of the lake to the outlet of Lake George, over the fall in the + little stream connecting the two lakes, through Lake George, and + thence to the mountains beyond, where the Iroquois resided. They found + the Iroquois, however, on the lake; gave them battle on the little + cape alluded to; and after the victory and pursuit for some distance + into the forest, and the gathering up of the spoils, Champlain and his + allies commenced their journey homeward. But Champlain says he saw the + fall in the stream that connects the two lakes. Now this little stream + flows into Lake Champlain at Ticonderoga, and he would naturally have + seen the fall, if the battle took place there, while in pursuit of the + Iroquois into the forest, as described in the text. The fall was in + the line of the retreat of the Iroquois towards their home, and is + only a mile and three-quarters from the cape jutting out into the lake + at Ticonderoga. If the battle had occurred at any point north of + Ticonderoga, he could not have seen the fall, as they retreated + immediately after the battle: if it had taken place south of that + point, it would have been off the war-path which they had determined + to pursue. We must conclude, therefore, that the battle took place at + Ticonderoga, a little north of the ruins of the old Fort Carillon, + directly on the shore of the lake. If the reader will examine the plan + of the battle as given by Champlain's engraving, he will see that it + conforms with great exactness to the known topography of the place. + The Iroquois, who had their choice of positions are on the north, in + the direction of Willow Point, where they can most easily retreat, and + where Champlain and his allies can be more easily hemmed in near the + point of the cape. The Iroquois are on lower ground, and we know that + the surface there shelves to the north. The well-known sandy bottom of + the lake at this place would furnish the means of fastening the + canoes, by forcing poles into it, a little out from the shore during + the night, as they actually did. On Champlain's map of 1632, this + point is referred to as the location of the battle; and in his note on + the map. No. 65, he says this is the place where the Iroquois were + defeated by Champlain. All the facts of the narrative thus point to + Ticonderoga, and render it indisputable that this was the scene of the + first of the many recorded conflicts on this memorable lake. We should + not have entered into this discussion so fully, had not several + writers, not well informed, expressed views wholly inconsistent with + known facts. + +349. The Indian name of Lake Champlain is _Caniaderiguaronte_, the lake + that is the gate of the country.--_Vide Administration of the + Colonies_, by Thomas Pownall. 1768, p. 267. This name was very + significant, since the lake and valley of Champlain was the "gate," or + war-path, by which the hostile tribes of Iroquois approached their + enemies on the north of the St. Lawrence, and _vice-versa_. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +RETURN FROM THE BATTLE, AND WHAT TOOK PLACE ON THE WAY. + + +After going some eight leagues, towards evening they took one of the +prisoners, to whom they made a harangue, enumerating the cruelties which he +and his men had already practised towards them without any mercy, and that, +in like manner, he ought to make up his mind to receive as much. They +commanded him to sing, if he had courage, which he did; but it was a very +sad song. + +Meanwhile, our men kindled a fire; and, when it was well burning, they each +took a brand, and burned this poor creature gradually, so as to make him +suffer greater torment. Sometimes they stopped, and threw water on his +back. Then they tore out his nails, and applied fire to the extremities of +his fingers and private member. Afterwards, they flayed the top of his +head, and had a kind of gum poured all hot upon it; then they pierced his +arms near the wrists, and, drawing up the sinews with sticks, they tore +them out by force; but, seeing that they could not get them, they cut +them. This poor wretch uttered terrible cries, and it excited my pity to +see him treated in this manner, and yet showing such firmness that one +would have said, at times, that he suffered hardly any pain at all. They +urged me strongly to take some fire, and do as they did. I remonstrated +with them, saying that we practised no such cruelties, but killed them at +once; and that, if they wished me to fire a musket-shot at him, I should be +willing to do so. They refused, saying that he would not in that case +suffer any pain. I went away from them, pained to see such cruelties as +they practised upon his body. When they saw that I was displeased, they +called me, and told me to fire a musket-shot at him. This I did without his +feeing it, and thus put an end, by a single shot, to all the torments he +would have suffered, rather than see him tyrannized over. After his death, +they were not yet satisfied, but opened him, and threw his entrails into +the lake. Then they cut off his head, arms, and legs, which they scattered +in different directions; keeping the scalp which they had flayed off, as +they had done in the case of all the rest whom they had killed in the +contest. They were guilty also of another monstrosity in taking his heart, +cutting it into several pieces, and giving it to a brother of his to eat, +as also to others of his companions, who were prisoners: they took it into +their mouths, but would not swallow it. Some Algonquin savages, who were +guarding them, made some of them spit it out, when they threw it into the +water. This is the manner in which these people behave towards those whom +they capture in war, for whom it would be better to die fighting, or to +kill themselves on the spur of the moment, as many do, rather than fall +into the hands of their enemies. After this execution, we set out on our +return with the rest of the prisoners, who kept singing as they went along, +with no better hopes for the future than he had had who was so wretchedly +treated. + +Having arrived at the falls of the Iroquois, the Algonquins returned to +their own country; so also the Ochateguins, [350] with a part of the +prisoners: well satisfied with the results of the war, and that I had +accompanied them so readily. We separated accordingly with loud +protestations of mutual friendship; and they asked me whether I would not +like to go into their country, to assist them with continued fraternal +relations; and I promised that I would do so. + +I returned with the Montagnais. After informing myself from the prisoners +in regard to their country, and of its probable extent, we packed up the +baggage for the return, which was accomplished with such despatch that we +went every day in their canoes twenty-five or thirty leagues, which was +their usual rate of travelling. When we arrived at the mouth of the river +Iroquois, some of the savages dreamed that their enemies were pursuing +them. This dream led them to move their camp forthwith, although the night +was very inclement on account of the wind and rain; and they went and +passed the remainder of the night, from fear of their enemies, amid high +reeds on Lake St. Peter. Two days after, we arrived at our settlement, +where I gave them some bread and peas; also some beads, which they asked me +for, in order to ornament the heads of their enemies, for the purpose of +merry-making upon their return. The next day, I went with them in their +canoes as far as Tadoussac, in order to witness their ceremonies. On +approaching the shore, they each took a stick, to the end of which they +hung the heads of their enemies, who had been killed, together with some +beads, all of them singing. When they were through with this, the women +undressed themselves, so as to be in a state of entire nudity, when they +jumped into the water, and swam to the prows, of the canoes to take the +heads of their enemies, which were on the ends of long poles before their +boats: then they hung them about their necks, as if it had been some costly +chain, singing and dancing meanwhile. Some days after, they presented me +with one of these heads, as if it were something very precious; and also +with a pair of arms taken from their enemies, to keep and show to the +king. This, for the sake of gratifying them, I promised to do. + +After some days, I went to Quebec, whither some Algonquin savages came, +expressing their regret at not being present at the defeat of their +enemies, and presenting me with some furs, in consideration of my having +gone there and assisted their friends. + +Some days after they had set out for their country, distant about a hundred +and twenty leagues from our settlement, I went to Tadoussac to see whether +Pont Gravé had returned from Gaspé, whither he had gone. He did not arrive +until the next day, when he told me that he had decided to return to +France. We concluded to leave an upright man, Captain Pierre Chavin of +Dieppe, to command at Quebec, until Sieur de Monts should arrange matters +there. + + +ENDNOTES: + +350. The Indian allies on this expedition were the Algonquins + (_Algoumequins_), the Hurons (_Ochatequins_), and the Montagnais + (_Montagnets_). The two former, on their way to Quebec, had met + Champlain near the river St. Anne, and joined him and the Montagnais, + who belonged in the neighborhood of Tadoussac, or farther east.--_Vide + antea_, p. 202. They now, at the falls near the Basin of Chambly, + departed to their homes, perhaps on the Ottawa River and the shores of + Lake Huron. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +RETURN TO FRANCE, AND WHAT OCCURRED UP TO THE TIME OP RE-EMBARKATION. + + +After forming this resolution, we went to Quebec to establish him in +authority, and leave him every thing requisite and necessary for the +settlement, together with fifteen men. Every thing being arranged, we set +out on the first day of September [351] for Tadoussac, in order to fit out +our vessel for returning to France. + +We set out accordingly from the latter place on the 5th of the month, and +on the 8th anchored at Isle Percée. On Thursday the 10th, we set out from +there, and on the 18th, the Tuesday following, we arrived at the Grand +Bank. On the 2d of October, we got soundings. On the 8th, we anchored at +Conquet [352] in Lower Brittany. On Saturday the 10th, we set out from +there, arriving at Honfleur on the 13th. + +After disembarking, I did not wait long before taking post to go to Sieur +de Monts, who was then at Fontainebleau, where His Majesty was. Here I +reported to him in detail all that had transpired in regard to the winter +quarters and our new explorations, and my hopes for the future in view of +the promises of the savages called Ochateguins, who are good Iroquois. +[353] The other Iroquois, their enemies, dwell more to the south. The +language of the former does not differ much from that of the people +recently discovered and hitherto unknown to us, which they understand when +spoken. + +I at once waited upon His Majesty, and gave him an account of my voyage, +which afforded him pleasure and satisfaction. I had a girdle made of +porcupine quills, very well worked, after the manner of the country where +it was made, and which His Majesty thought very pretty. I had also two +little birds, of the size of blackbirds and of a carnation color; [354] +also, the head of a fish caught in the great lake of the Iroquois, having a +very long snout and two or three rows of very sharp teeth. A representation +of this fish may be found on the great lake, on my geographical map. [355] + +After I had concluded my interview with His Majesty, Sieur de Monts +determined to go to Rouen to meet his associates, the Sieurs Collier and Le +Gendre, merchants of Rouen, to consider what should be done the coming +year. They resolved to continue the settlement, and finish the explorations +up the great river St. Lawrence, in accordance with the promises of the +Ochateguins, made on condition that we should assist them in their wars, as +I had given them to understand. + +Pont Gravé was appointed to go to Tadoussac, not only for traffic, but to +engage in any thing else that might realize means for defraying the +expenses. + +Sieur Lucas Le Gendre, of Rouen, one of the partners, was ordered to see to +the purchase of merchandise and supplies, the repair of the vessels, +obtaining crews, and other things necessary for the voyage. + +After these matters were arranged, Sieur de Monts returned to Paris, I +accompanying him, where I stayed until the end of February. During this +time, Sieur de Monts endeavored to obtain a new commission for trading in +the newly discovered regions, and where no one had traded before. This he +was unable to accomplish, although his requests and proposals were just and +reasonable. + +But, finding that there was no hope of obtaining this commission, he did +not cease to prosecute his plan, from his desire that every thing might +turn out to the profit and honor of France. + +During this time, Sieur de Monts did not express to me his pleasure in +regard to me personally, until I told him it had been reported to me that +he did not wish to have me winter in Canada, which, however, was not true, +for he referred the whole matter to my pleasure. + +I provided myself with whatever was desirable and necessary for spending +the winter at our settlement in Quebec. For this purpose I set out from +Paris the last day of February following, [356] and proceeded to Honfleur, +where the embarkation was to be made. I went by way of Rouen, where I +stayed two days. Thence I went to Honfleur, where I found Pont Gravé and Le +Gendre, who told me they had embarked what was necessary for the +settlement. I was very glad to find that we were ready to set sail, but +uncertain whether the supplies were good and adequate for our sojourn and +for spending the winter. + +ENDNOTES: + +351. September, 1609. + +352. A small seaport town in the department of Finisterre, twelve miles + west of Brest. + +353. The Ochateguins, called by the French Hurons, were a branch of the + Iroquois. Their real name was Yendots. They were at this time allied + with the Algonquins, in a deadly war with their Iroquois cousins, the + Five Nations.--_Vide Gallatins Synopsis_, Transactions of Am. Antiq. + Society, Cambridge, 1836, Vol. II. p. 69, _et passim_. + +354. The Scarlet tanager, _Pyranga rubra_, of a scarlet color, with black + wings and tail. It ranges from Texas to Lake Huron. + +355. _Vide antea_, p. 216; and map. 1612. + +356. Anno Domini 1610. + + + +SECOND VOYAGE +OF +SIEUR. DE CHAMPLAIN +TO NEW FRANCE, IN THE YEAR 1610. + + + +CHAPTER I. + +DEPARTURE FROM FRANCE TO RETURN TO NEW FRANCE, AND OCCURRENCES UNTIL OUR +ARRIVAL AT THE SETTLEMENT. + + +The weather having become favorable, I embarked at Honfleur with a number +of artisans on the 7th of the month of March. [357] But, encountering bad +weather in the Channel, we were obliged to put in on the English coast at a +place called Porlan, [358] in the roadstead of which we stayed some days, +when we weighed anchor for the Isle d'Huy, [359] near the English coast, +since we found the roadstead of Porlan very bad. When near this island, so +dense a fog arose, that we were obliged to put in at the Hougue. [360] + +Ever since the departure from Honfleur, I had been afflicted with a very +severe illness, which took away my hopes of being able to make the voyage; +so that I embarked in a boat to return to Havre in France, to be treated +there, being very ill on board the vessel. My expectation was, on +recovering my health, to embark again in another vessel, which had not yet +left Honfleur, in which Des Marais, son-in-law of Pont Gravé, was to +embark; but I had myself carried, still very ill, to Honfleur, where the +vessel on which I had set out put in on the 15th of March, for some +ballast, which it needed in order to be properly trimmed. Here it remained +until the 8th of April. During this time, I recovered in a great degree; +and, though still feeble and weak, I nevertheless embarked again. + +We set out anew on the 18th of April, arriving at the Grand Bank on the +19th, and fighting the Islands of St. Pierre on the 22nd. [361] When off +Menthane, we met a vessel from St. Malo, on which was a young man, who, +while drinking to the health of Pont Gravé, lost control of himself and was +thrown into the Sea by the motion of the vessel and drowned, it being +impossible to render him assistance on account of the violence of the wind. + +On the 26th of the month, we arrived at Tadoussac, where there were vessels +which had arrived on the 18th, a thing which had not been seen for more +than sixty years, as the old mariners said who sail regularly to this +country. [362] This was owing to the mild winter and the small amount of +ice, which did not prevent the entrance of these vessels. We learned from a +young nobleman, named Sieur du Parc, who had spent the winter at our +settlement, that all his companions were in good health, only a few having +been ill, and they but slightly. He also informed us that there had been +scarcely any winter, and that they had usually had fresh meat the entire +season, and that their hardest task had been to keep up good cheer. + +This winter shows how those undertaking in future such enterprises ought to +proceed, it being very difficult to make a new settlement without labor; +and without encountering adverse fortune the first year, as has been the +case in all our first settlements. But, in fact, by avoiding salt food and +using fresh meat, the health is as good here as in France. + +The savages had been waiting from day to day for us to go to the war with +them. When they learned that Pont Gravé and I had arrived together, they +rejoiced greatly, and came to speak with us. + +I went on shore to assure them that we would go with them, in conformity +with the promises they had made me, namely, that upon our return from the +war they would show me the Trois Rivières, and take me to a sea so large +that the end of it cannot be seen, whence we should return by way of the +Saguenay to Tadoussac. I asked them if they still had this intention, to +which they replied that they had, but that it could not be carried out +before the next year, which pleased me. But I had promised the Algonquins +and Ochateguins that I would assist them also in their wars, they having +promised to show me their country, the great lake, some copper mines, and +other things, which they had indicated to me. I accordingly had two strings +to my bow, so that, in case one should break, the other might hold. + +On the 28th of the month, I set out from Tadoussac for Quebec, where I +found Captain Pierre, [363] who commanded there, and all his companions in +good health. There was also a savage captain with them, named Batiscan, +with some of his companions, who were awaiting us, and who were greatly +pleased at my arrival, singing and dancing the entire evening. I provided a +banquet for them, which gratified them very much. They had a good meal, for +which they were very thankful, and invited me with seven others to an +entertainment of theirs, not a small mark of respect with them. We each +one carried a porringer, according to custom, and brought it home full of +meat, which we gave to whomsoever we pleased. + +Some days after I had set out from Tadoussac, the Montagnais arrived at +Quebec, to the number of sixty able-bodied men, en route for the war. They +tarried here some days, enjoying themselves, and not omitting to ply me +frequently with questions, to assure themselves that I would not fail in my +promises to them. I assured them, and again made promises to them, asking +them if they had found me breaking my word in the past. They were greatly +pleased when I renewed my promises to them. + +They said to me: "Here are numerous Basques and Mistigoches" (this is the +name they give to the Normans and people of St. Malo), "who say they will +go to the war with us. What do you think of it? Do they speak the truth?" +I answered no, and that I knew very well what they really meant; that they +said this only to get possession of their commodities. They replied to me: +"You have spoken the truth. They are women, and want to make war only upon +our beavers." They went on talking still farther in a facetious mood, and +in regard to the manner and order of going to the war. + +They determined to set out, and await me at the Trois Rivières, thirty +leagues above Quebec, where I had promised to join them, together with four +barques loaded with merchandise, in order to traffic in peltries, among +others with the Ochateguins, who were to await me at the mouth of the river +of the Iroquois, as they had promised the year before, and to bring there +as many as four hundred men to go to the war. + + +ENDNOTES: + +357. In the title above, Champlain calls this his SECOND VOYAGE, by which + he means doubtless to say that this is the second voyage which he had + undertaken as lieutenant. The first and second voyages, of 1603 and of + 1604, were not made under his direction. + +358. Portland in Dorsetshire, England. + +359. _Isle d'Huy_. This plainly refers to the Isle of Wight. On Ortelius's + carte of 1603. it is spelled Vigt: and the orthography, obtained + probably through the ear and not the eye, might easily have been + mistaken by Champlain. + +360. _La Hougue_. There are two small islands laid down on the carte of + Ortelius. 1603, under the name _Les Hougueaux_, and a hamlet nearby + called Hougo, which is that, doubtless, to which Chaimplain here + refers. + +361. Comparing this statement with the context, it will be clear that the + passage should read the 8th, and not the 18th of April. The "Islands + of St. Pierre," _Isles S. Pierre_, includes the Island of St. Peter + and the cluster surrounding it. + +362. M. Ferland infers from this statement that the Basques, Normans, and + Bretons had been accustomed for the last sixty years, from the last + voyage of Roberval in 1549, to extend their fishing and fur-trading + voyages as far as Tadoussac.--_Vide Cours d'Hist. du Canada_, as cited + by Laverdière. + +363. Captain Pierre Chavin, of Dieppe. _Vide antea_, p. 227. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +DEPARTURE FROM QUEBEC TO ASSIST OUR ALLIED SAVAGES IN THEIR WAR AGAINST THE +IROQUOIS, THEIR ENEMIES; AND ALL THAT TRANSPIRED UNTIL OUR RETURN TO THE +SETTLEMENT. + + +I set out from Quebec on the 14th of June, to meet the Montagnais, +Algonquins, and Ochateguins, who were to be at the mouth of the river of +the Iroquois. When I was eight leagues from Quebec, I met a canoe, +containing two savages, one an Algonquin, and the other a Montagnais, who +entreated me to advance as rapidly as possible, saying that the Algonquins +and Ochateguins would in two days be at the rendezvous, to the number of +two hundred, with two hundred others to come a little later, together with +Yroquet, one of their chiefs. They asked me if I was satisfied with the +coming of these savages. I told them I could not be displeased at it, since +they had kept their word. They came on board my barque, where I gave them a +good entertainment. Shortly after conferring with them about many matters +concerning their wars, the Algonquin savage, one of their chiefs, drew from +a sack a piece of copper a foot long, which he gave me. This was very +handsome and quite pure. He gave me to understand that there were large +quantities where he had taken this, which was on the bank of a river, near +a great lake. He said that they gathered it in lumps, and, having melted +it, spread it in sheets, smoothing it with stones. I was very glad of this +present, although of small value. [364] + +Arriving at Trois Rivières, I found all the Montagnais awaiting me, and the +four barques as I stated above, which had gone to trade with them. + +The savages were delighted to see me, and I went on shore to speak with +them. They entreated me, together with my companions, to embark on their +canoes and no others, when we went to the war, saying that they were our +old friends. This I promised them, telling them that I desired to set out +at once, since the wind was favorable; and that my barque was not so swift +as their canoes, for which reason I desired to go on in advance. They +earnestly entreated me to wait until the morning of the next day, when we +would all go together, adding that they would not go faster than I should. +Finally, to satisfy them, I promised to do this, at which they were greatly +pleased. + +On the following day, we all set out together, and continued our route +until the morning of the next day, the 19th of the month, when we arrived +at an island [365] off the river of the Iroquois, and waited for the +Algonquins, who were to be there the same day. While the Montagnais were +felling trees to clear a place for dancing, and for arranging themselves +for the arrival of the Algonquins, an Algonquin canoe was suddenly seen +coming in haste, to bring word that the Algonquins had fallen in with a +hundred Iroquois, who were strongly barricaded, and that it would be +difficult to conquer them, unless they should come speedily, together with +the Matigoches, as they call us. + +The alarm at once sounded among them, and each one got into his canoe with +his arms. They were quickly in readiness, but with confusion; for they were +so precipitous that, instead of making haste, they hindered one another. +They came to our barque and the others, begging me, together with my +companions, to go with them in their canoes, and they were so urgent that I +embarked with four others. I requested our pilot, La Routte, to stay in the +barque, and send me some four or five more of my companions, if the other +barques would send some shallops with men to aid us; for none of the +barques were inclined to go with the savages, except Captain Thibaut, who, +having a barque there, went with me. The savages cried out to those who +remained, saying that they were woman-hearted, and that all they could do +was to make war upon their peltry. + +Meanwhile, after going some half a league, all the savages crossing the +river landed, and, leaving their canoes, took their bucklers, bows, arrows, +clubs, and swords, which they attach to the end of large sticks, and +proceeded to make their way in the woods, so fast that we soon lost sight +of them, they leaving us, five in number, without guides. This displeased +us; but, keeping their tracks constantly in sight, we followed them, +although we were often deceived. We went through dense woods, and over +swamps and marshes, with the water always up to our knees, greatly +encumbered by a pike-man's corselet, with which each one was armed. We were +also tormented in a grievous and unheard-of manner by quantities of +mosquitoes, which were so thick that they scarcely permitted us to draw +breath. After going about half a league under these circumstances, and no +longer knowing where we were, we perceived two savages passing through the +woods, to whom we called and told them to stay with us, and guide us to the +whereabouts of the Iroquois, otherwise we could not go there, and should +get lost in the woods. They stayed to guide us. After proceeding a short +distance, we saw a savage coming in haste to us, to induce us to advance as +rapidly as possible, giving me to understand that the Algonquins and +Montagnais had tried to force the barricade of the Iroquois but had been +repulsed, that some of the best men of the Montagnais had been killed in +the attempt, and several wounded, and that they had retired to wait for us, +in whom was their only hope. We had not gone an eighth of a league with +this savage, who was an Algonquin captain, before we heard the yells and +cries on both sides, as they jeered at each other, and were skirmishing +slightly while awaiting us. As soon as the savages perceived us, they began +to shout, so that one could not have heard it thunder. I gave orders to my +companions to follow me steadily, and not to leave me on any account. I +approached the barricade of the enemy, in order to reconnoitre it. It was +constructed of large trees placed one upon an other, and of a circular +shape, the usual form of their fortifications. All the Montagnais and +Algonquins approached likewise the barricade. Then we commenced firing +numerous musket-shots through the brush-wood, since we could not see them, +as they could us. I was wounded while firing my first shot at the side of +their barricade by an arrow, which pierced the end of my ear and entered my +neck. I seized the arrow, and tore it from my neck. The end of it was armed +with a very sharp stone. One of my companions also was wounded at the same +time in the arm by an arrow, which I tore out for him. Yet my wound did +not prevent me from doing my duty: our savages also, on their part, as well +as the enemy, did their duty, so that you could see the arrows fly on all +sides as thick as hail. The Iroquois were astonished at the noise of our +muskets, and especially that the balls penetrated better than their +arrows. They were so frightened at the effect produced that, seeing +several, of their companions fall wounded and dead, they threw themselves +on the ground whenever they heard a discharge, supposing that the shots +were sure. We scarcely ever missed firing two or three balls at one shot, +resting our muskets most of the time on the side of their barricade. But, +seeing that our ammunition began to fail, I said to all the savages that it +was necessary to break down their barricades and capture them by storm; and +that, in order to accomplish this, they must take their shields, cover +themselves with them, and thus approach so near as to be able to fasten +stout ropes to the posts that supported the barricades, and pull them down +by main strength, in that way making an opening large enough to permit them +to enter the fort. I told them that we would meanwhile, by our +musketry-fire, keep off the enemy, as they endeavored to prevent them from +accomplishing this; also that a number of them should get behind some large +trees, which were near the barricade, in order to throw them down upon the +enemy, and that others should protect these with their shields, in order to +keep the enemy from injuring them. All this they did very promptly. And, as +they were about finishing the work, the barques, distant a league and a +half, hearing the reports of our muskets, knew that we were engaged in +conflict; and a young man from St. Malo, full of courage, Des Prairies by +name, who like the rest had come with his barque to engage in peltry +traffic, said to his companions that it was a great shame to let me fight +in this way with the savages without coming to my assistance; that for his +part he had too high a sense of honor to permit him to do so, and that he +did not wish to expose himself to this reproach; Accordingly, he determined +to come to me in a shallop with some of his companions, together with some +of mine whom he took with him. Immediately upon his arrival, he went +towards the fort of the Iroquois, situated on the bank of the river. Here +he landed, and came to find me. Upon seeing him, I ordered our savages who +were breaking down the fortress to stop, so that the new-comers might have +their share of the sport. I requested Sieur des Prairies and his companions +to fire some salvos of musketry, before our savages should carry by storm +the enemy, as they had decided to do. This they did, each one firing +several shots, in which all did their duty well. After they had fired +enough, I addressed myself to our savages, urging them to finish the +work. Straightway, they approached the barricade, as they had previously +done, while we on the flank were to fire at those who should endeavor to +keep them from breaking it down. They behaved so well and bravely that, +with the help of our muskets, they made an opening, which, however, was +difficult to go through, as there was still left a portion as high as a +man, there being also branches of trees there which had been beaten down, +forming a serious obstacle. But, when I saw that the entrance was quite +practicable, I gave orders not to fire any more, which they obeyed. At the +same instant, some twenty or thirty, both of savages and of our own men, +entered, sword in hand, without finding much resistance. Immediately, all +who were unharmed took to flight. But they did not proceed far; for they +were brought down by those around the barricade, and those who escaped were +drowned in the river. We captured some fifteen prisoners, the rest being +killed by musket-shots, arrows, and the sword. When the fight was over, +there came another shallop, containing some of my companions. This although +behind time, was yet in season for the booty, which, however, was not of +much account. There were only robes of beaver-skin, and dead bodies, +covered with blood, which the savages would not take the trouble to +plunder, laughing at those in the last shallop, who did so; for the others +did not engage in such low business. This, then, is the victory obtained by +God's grace, for gaining which they gave us much praise. + + * * * * * + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP. + +FORT DES IROQUOIS. + +_A_. The fort of the Iroquois. +_B_. The Iroquois throwing themselves into the river to escape the pursuit + of the Montagnais and Algonquins who followed for the purpose of + killing them. +_D_. Sieur de Champlain and five of his men. +_E_. The savages friendly to us. +_F_. Sieur des Prairies of St. Malo with his comrades. +_G_. Shallop of Sieur des Prairies. +_H_. Great trees cut down for the purpose of destroying the fort of the + Iroquois. + + * * * * * + +The savages scalped the dead, and took the heads as a trophy of victory, +according to their custom. They returned with fifty wounded Montagnais and +Algonquins and three dead, singing and leading their prisoners with them. +They attached to sticks in the prows of their canoes the heads and a dead +body cut into quarters, to eat in revenge, as they said. In this way, they +went to our barques off the River of the Iroquois. + +My companions and I embarked in a shallop, where I had my wound dressed by +the surgeon, De Boyer, of Rouen, who likewise had come here for the purpose +of traffic. The savages spent all this day in dancing and singing. + +The next day, Sieur de Pont Gravé arrived with another shallop, loaded with +merchandise. Moreover, there was also a barque containing Captain Pierre, +which he had left behind, it being able to come only with difficulty, as it +was rather heavy and a poor sailer. + +The same day there was some trading in peltry, but the other barques +carried off the better part of the booty. It was doing them a great favor +to search out a strange people for them, that they might afterwards carry +off the profit without any risk or danger. + +That day, I asked the savages for an Iroquois prisoner which they had, and +they gave him to me. What I did for him was not a little; for I saved him +from many tortures which he must have suffered in company with his +fellow-prisoners, whole nails they tore out, also cutting off their +fingers, and burning them in several places. They put to death on the same +day two or three, and, in order to increase their torture, treated them in +the following manner. + +They took the prisoners to the border of the water, and fastened them +perfectly upright to a stake. Then each came with a torch of birch bark, +and burned them, now in this place, now in that. The poor wretches, feeling +the fire, raised so loud a cry that it was something frightful to hear; and +frightful indeed are the cruelties which these barbarians practise towards +each other. After making them suffer greatly in this manner and burning +them with the above-mentioned bark, taking some water, they threw it on +their bodies to increase their suffering. Then they applied the fire anew, +so that the skin fell from their bodies, they continuing to utter loud +cries and exclamations, and dancing until the poor wretches fell dead on +the spot. + +As soon as a body fell to the ground dead, they struck it violent blows +with sticks, when they cut off the arms, legs, and other parts; and he was +not regarded by them as manly, who did not cut off a piece of the flesh, +and give it to the dogs. Such are the courtesies prisoners receive. But +still they endure all the tortures inflicted upon them with such constancy +that the spectator is astonished. + +As to the other prisoners, which remained in possession of the Algonquins +and Montagnais, it was left to their wives and daughters to put them to +death with their own hands; and, in such a matter, they do not show +themselves less inhuman than the men, but even surpass them by far in +cruelty; for they devise by their cunning more cruel punishments, in which +they take pleasure, putting an end to their lives by the most extreme +pains. + +The next day there arrived the Captain Yroquet, also another Ochateguin, +with some eighty men, who regretted greatly not having been present at the +defeat. Among all these tribes there were present nearly two hundred men, +who had never before seen Christians, for whom they conceived a great +admiration. + +We were some three days together on an island off the river of the +Iroquois, when each tribe returned to its own country. + +I had a young lad, who had already spent two winters at Quebec, and who was +desirous of going with the Algonquins to learn their language. Pont Gravé +and I concluded that, if he entertained this desire, it would be better to +send him to this place than elsewhere, that he might ascertain the nature +of their country, see the great lake, observe the rivers and tribes there, +and also explore the mines and objects of special interest in the +localities occupied by these tribes, in order that he might inform us upon +his return, of the facts of the case. We asked him if it was his desire to +go, for I did not wish to force him. But he answered the question at once +by consenting to the journey with great pleasure. + +Going to Captain Yroquet, who was strongly attached to me, I asked him if +he would like to take this young boy to his country to spend the winter +with him, and bring him back in the spring. He promised to do so, and treat +him as his own son, saying that he was greatly pleased with the idea. He +communicated the plan to all the Algonquins, who were not greatly pleased +with it, from fear that some accident might happen to the boy, which would +cause us to make war upon them. This hesitation cooled the desire of +Yroquet, who came and told me that all his companions failed to find the +plan a good one. Meanwhile, all the barques had left, excepting that of +Pont Gravé, who, having some pressing business on hand, as he told me, went +away too. But I stayed with my barque to see how the matter of the journey +of this boy, which I was desirous should take place, would result. I +accordingly went on shore, and asked to speak with the captains, who came +to me, and we sat down for a conference, together with many other savages +of age and distinction in their troops. Then I asked them why Captain +Yroquet, whom I regarded as my friend, had refused to take my boy with +him. I said that it was not acting like a brother or friend to refuse me +what he had promised, and what could result in nothing but good to them; +taking the boy would be a means of increasing still more our friendship +with them and forming one with their neighbors; that their scruples at +doing so only gave me an unfavorable opinion of them; and that if they +would not take the boy, as Captain Yroquet had promised, I would never have +any friendship with them, for they were not children to break their +promises in this manner. They then told me that they were satisfied with +the arrangement, only they feared that, from change of diet to something +worse than he had been accustomed to, some harm might happen to the boy, +which would provoke my displeasure. This they said was the only cause of +their refusal. + +I replied that the boy would be able to adapt himself without difficulty to +their manner of living and usual food, and that, if through sickness or the +fortunes of war any harm should befall him, this would not interrupt my +friendly feelings towards them, and that we were all exposed to accidents, +which we must submit to with patience. But I said that if they treated him +badly, and if any misfortune happened to him through their fault, I should +in truth be displeased, which, however, I did not expect from them, but +quite the contrary. + +They said to me: "Since then, this is your desire, we will take him, and +treat him like ourselves. But you shall also take a young man in his place, +to go to France. We shall be greatly pleased to hear him report the fine +things he shall have seen." I accepted with pleasure the proposition, and +took the young man. He belonged to the tribe of the Ochateguins, and was +also glad to go with me. This presented an additional motive for treating +my boy still better than they might otherwise have done. I fitted him out +with what he needed, and we made a mutual promise to meet at the end of +June. + +We parted with many promises of friendship. Then they went away towards the +great fall of the River of Canada, while I returned to Quebec. On my way, I +met Pont Gravé on Lake St. Peter, who was waiting for me with a large +patache, which he had fallen in with on this lake, and which had not been +expeditious enough to reach the place where the savages were, on account of +its poor sailing qualities. + +We all returned together to Quebec, when Pont Gravé went to Tadoussac, to +arrange some matters pertaining to our quarters there. But I stayed at +Quebec to see to the reconstruction of some palisades about our abode, +until Pont Gravé should return, when we could confer together as to what +was to be done. + +On the 4th of June, Des Marais arrived at Quebec, greatly to our joy; for +we were afraid that some accident had happened to him at sea. + +Some days after, an Iroquois prisoner, whom I had kept guarded, got away in +consequence of my giving him too much liberty, and made his escape, urged +to do so by fear, notwithstanding the assurances given him by a woman of +his tribe we had at our settlement. + +A few days after, Pont Gravé wrote me that he was thinking of passing the +winter at the settlement, being moved to do so by many considerations. I +replied that, if he expected to fare better than I had done in the past, he +would do well. + +He accordingly hastened to provide himself with the supplies necessary for +the settlement. + +After I had finished the palisade about our habitation, and put every thing +in order, Captain Pierre returned in a barque in which he had gone to +Tadoussac to see his friends. I also went there to ascertain what would +result from the second trading, and to attend to some other special +business which I had there. Upon my arrival, I found there Pont Gravé, who +stated to me in detail his plans, and the reasons inducing him to spend the +winter. I told him frankly what I thought of the matter; namely, that I +believed he would not derive much profit from it, according to the +appearances that were plainly to be seen. + +He determined accordingly to change his plan, and despatched a barque with +orders for Captain Pierre to return from Quebec on account of some business +he had with him; with the intelligence also that some vessels, which had +arrived from Brouage, brought the news that Monsieur de Saint Luc had come +by post from Paris, expelled those of the religion from Brouage, +re-enforced the garrison with soldiers, and then returned to Court; [366] +that the king had been killed, and two or three days after him the Duke of +Sully, together with two other lords, whose names they did not know. [367] + +All these tidings gave great sorrow to the true French in these quarters. +As for myself, it was hard for me to believe it, on account of the +different reports about the matter, and which had not much appearance of +truth. Still, I was greatly troubled at hearing such mournful news. + +Now, after having stayed three or four days longer at Tadoussac, I saw the +loss which many merchants must suffer, who had taken on board a large +quantity of merchandise, and fitted out a great number of vessels, in +expectation of doing a good business in the fur-trade, which was so poor on +account of the great number of vessels, that many will for a long time +remember the loss which they suffered this year. + +Sieur de Pont Gravé and I embarked, each of us in a barque, leaving Captain +Pierre on the vessel. We took Du Parc to Quebec, where we finished what +remained to be done at the settlement. After every thing was in good +condition, we resolved that Du Parc, who had wintered there with Captain +Pierre, should remain again, and that Captain Pierre should return to +France with us, on account of some business that called him there. + +We accordingly left Du Parc in command there, with sixteen men, all of whom +we enjoined to live soberly, and in the fear of God, and in strict +observance of the obedience due to the authority of Du Parc, who was left +as their chief and commander, just as if one of us had remained. This they +all promised to do, and to live in peace with each other. + +As to the gardens, we left them all well supplied with kitchen vegetables +of all sorts, together with fine Indian corn, wheat, rye, and barley, which +had been already planted. There were also vines which I had set out when I +spent the winter there, but these they made no attempt to preserve; for, +upon my return, I found them all in ruins, and I was greatly displeased +that they had given so little attention to the preservation of so fine and +good a plot, from which I had anticipated a favorable result. + +After seeing that every thing was in good order, we set out from Quebec on +the 8th of August for Tadoussac, in order to prepare our vessel, which was +speedily done. + + +ENDNOTES: + +364. This testimony of the Algonquin chief is interesting, and historically + important. We know of no earlier reference to the art of melting and + malleating copper in any of the reports of the navigators to our + northern coast. That the natives possessed this art is placed beyond + question by this passage, as well as by the recent discovery of copper + implements in Wisconsin, bearing the marks of mechanical fusion and + malleation. The specimens of copper in the possession of the natives + on the coast of New England, as referred to by Brereton and Archer, + can well be accounted for without supposing them to be of native + manufacture, though they may have been so. The Basques. Bretons, + English, and Portuguese had been annually on our northern coasts for + fishing and fur-trading for more than a century, and had distributed a + vast quantity of articles for savage ornament and use; and it would, + therefore, be difficult to prove that the copper chains and collars + and other trinkets mentioned by Brereton and Archer were not derived + from this source. But the testimony of the early navigators in the + less frequented region of the St. Lawrence is not open to this + interpretation. When Cartier advanced up the Gulf of Lawrence in 1535, + the savages pointed out the region of the Saguenay, which they + informed him was inhabited, and that from thence came the red copper + which they called _caignetdaze_. + + "Et par les sauuaiges que auions, nous a essé dict que cestoit le + commencement du Saguenay & terre habitable. Et que de la ve noit le + cuyure rouge qu'ilz appellent caignetdaze."--_Brief Récit_, par + Jacques Cartier, 1545. D'Avezac ed., p. 9. _Vide idem_, p. 34. + + When Cartier was at Isle Coudres, say fifty miles below Quebec, on his + return, the Indians from the Saguenay came on board his ship, and made + certain presents to their chief, Donnacona, whom Cartier had captured, + and was taking home with him to France. Among these gifts, they gave + him a great knife of red copper, which came from the Saguenay. The + words of Cartier are as follows:-- + + "Donnerent audict Donnaconan trois pacquetz de peaulx de byeures & + loups marins avec vng grand cousteau de cuyure rouge, qui vient du + Saguenay & autres choses."--_Idem_, p. 44. + + This voyage of Cartier, made in 1535, was the earliest visit by any + navigator on record to this region. It was eighty years before the + Recollects or any other missionaries had approached the Gulf of + St. Lawrence. There was, therefore, no intercourse previous to this + that would be likely to furnish the natives with European utensils of + any kind, particularly knives of _red copper_. It is impossible to + suppose that this knife, seen by Cartier, and declared by the natives + to have come from the Saguenay, a term then covering an indefinite + region stretching we know not how far to the north and west, could be + otherwise than of Indian manufacture. In the text, Champlain + distinctly states on the testimony of an Algonquin chief that it was + the custom of the Indians to melt copper for the purpose of forming it + into sheets, and it is obvious that it would require scarcely greater + ingenuity to fabricate moulds in which to cast the various implements + which they needed in their simple arts. Some of these implements, with + indubitable marks of having been cast in moulds, have been recently + discovered, with a multitude of others, which may or may not have + passed through the same process. The testimony of Champlain in the + text, and the examples of moulded copper found in the lake region, + render the evidence, in our judgment, entirely conclusive that the art + of working copper both by fusion and malleation existed among the + Indians of America at the time of its first occupation by the French. + + During the period of five years, beginning in 1871, an enthusiastic + antiquary, Mr. F. S. Perkins, of Wisconsin, collected, within the + borders of his own State, a hundred and forty-two copper implements, + of a great variety of forms, and designed for numerous uses, as axes, + hatchets, spear-heads, arrowheads, knives, gouges, chisels, adzes, + augers, gads, drills, and other articles of anomalous forms. These are + now deposited in the archives of the Historical Society of + Wisconsin. Other collections are gradually forming. The process is of + necessity slow, as they are not often found in groups, but singly, + here and there, as they are turned up by the plough or spade of other + implements of husbandry. The statement of Champlain in the text, and + the testimony of Carrier three-quarters of a century earlier, to which + we have referred, give a new historical significance to these recent + discoveries, and both together throw a fresh light upon the + prehistoric period. + +365. This was the Island St. Ignace, which lies opposite the mouth of the + river Iroquois or Richelieu. Champlain's description is not + sufficiently definite to enable us to identify the exact location of + this conflict with the savages. It is, however, evident, from several + intimations found in the text, that it was about a league from the + mouth of the Richelieu, and was probably on the bank of that river. + +366. For some account of Saint Luc, see Memoir, Vol. I. By those of the + religion, _ceux de la Religion_, are meant the Huguenots, or + Protestants. + +367. The assassination of Henry IV. occurred on the 14th of May, 1610; but + the rumor of the death of the Duke of Sully was erroneous. Maximelien + de Béthune, the Duke of Sully, died on the 22d of December, 1641, at + the age of eighty-two years. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +RETURN TO FRANCE.--MEETING A WHALE;--THE MODE OF CAPTURING THEM. + + +On the 13th of the month, we set out from Tadoussac, arriving at Île Percée +the next day, where we found a large number of vessels engaged in the +fishery, dry and green. + +On the 18th of the month, we departed from Île Percée, passing in latitude +42°, without sighting the Grand Bank, where the green fishery is carried +on, as it is too narrow at this altitude. + +When we were about half way across, we encountered a whale, which was +asleep. The vessel, passing over him, awakening him betimes, made a great +hole in him near the tail, without damaging our vessel; but he threw out an +abundance of blood. + +It has seemed to me not out of place to give here a brief description of +the mode of catching whales, which many have not witnessed, and suppose +that they are shot, owing to the false assertions about the matter made to +them in their ignorance by impostors, and on account of which such ideas +have often been obstinately maintained in my presence. + +Those, then, most skilful in this fishery are the Basques, who, for the +purpose of engaging in it, take their vessels to a place of security, and +near where they think whales are plenty. Then they equip several shallops +manned by competent men and provided with hawsers, small ropes made of the +best hemp to be found, at least a hundred and fifty fathoms long. They are +also provided with many halberds of the length of a short pike, whose iron +is six inches broad; others are from a foot and a half to two feet long, +and very sharp. Each shallop has a harpooner, the most agile and adroit man +they have, whose pay is next highest to that of the masters, his position +being the most dangerous one. This shallop being outside of the port, the +men look in all quarters for a whale, tacking about in all directions. But, +if they see nothing, they return to the shore, and ascend the highest point +they can find, and from which they can get the most extensive view. Here +they station a man on the look-out. They are aided in catching sight of a +whale both by his size and the water he spouts through his blow-holes, +which is more than a puncheon at a time, and two lances high. From the +amount of this water, they estimate how much oil he will yield. From some +they get as many as one hundred and twenty puncheons, from others less. +Having caught sight of this monstrous fish, they hasten to embark in their +shallops, and by rowing or sailing they advance until they are upon him. + +Seeing him under water, the harpooner goes at once to the prow of the +shallop with his harpoon, an iron two feet long and half a foot wide at the +lower part, and attached to a stick as long as a small pike, in the middle +of which is a hole to which the hawser is made fast. The harpooner, +watching his time, throws his harpoon at the whale, which enters him well +forward. As soon as he finds himself wounded, the whale goes down. And if +by chance turning about, as he does sometimes, his tail strikes the +shallop, it breaks it like glass. This is the only risk they run of being +killed in harpooning. As soon as they have thrown the harpoon into him, +they let the hawser run until the whale reaches the bottom. But sometimes +he does not go straight to the bottom, when he drags the shallop eight or +nine leagues or more, going as swiftly as a horse. Very often they are +obliged to cut their hawser, for fear that the whale will take them +underwater. But, when he goes straight to the bottom, he rests there +awhile, and then returns quietly to the surface, the men taking aboard +again the hawser as he rises. When he comes to the top, two or three +shallops are stationed around with halberds, with which they give him +several blows. Finding himself struck, the whale goes down again, leaving a +trail of blood, and grows weak to such an extent that he has no longer any +strength nor energy, and returning to the surface is finally killed. When +dead, he does not go down again; fastening stout ropes to him, they drag +him ashore to their head-quarters, the place where they try out the fat of +the whale, to obtain his oil. This is the way whales are taken, and not by +cannon-shots, which many suppose, as I have stated above. + +To resume the thread of my narrative: after wounding the whale, as +mentioned, we captured a great many porpoises, which our mate harpooned to +our pleasure and amusement. We also caught a great many fish having a +large ear, with a hook and line, attaching to the hook a little fish +resembling a herring, and letting it trail behind the vessel. The large +ear, thinking it in fact a living fish, comes up to swallow it, thus +finding himself at once caught by the hook, which is concealed in the body +of the little fish. This fish is very good, and has certain tufts which are +very handsome, and resemble those worn on plumes. + +On the 22d of September, we arrived on soundings. Here we saw twenty +vessels some four leagues to the west of us, which, as they appeared from +our vessel, we judged to be Flemish. + +On the 25th of the month, we sighted the Isle de Grenezé, [368] after +experiencing a strong blow, which lasted until noon. + +On the 27th of the month, we arrived at Honfleur. + +ENDNOTES: + +368. Guernsey, which lay directly before them as they advanced up the + English Channel, and was the first large island that met the eye on + their way to Honfleur. + + + + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, VOYAGES OF SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN, VOL. 2 *** + +This file should be named 8vcv210.txt or 8vcv210.zip +Corrected EDITIONS of our eBooks get a new NUMBER, 8vcv211.txt +VERSIONS based on separate sources get new LETTER, 8vcv210a.txt + +Project Gutenberg eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the US +unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we usually do not +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + +We are now trying to release all our eBooks one year in advance +of the official release dates, leaving time for better editing. +Please be encouraged to tell us about any error or corrections, +even years after the official publication date. + +Please note neither this listing nor its contents are final til +midnight of the last day of the month of any such announcement. +The official release date of all Project Gutenberg eBooks is at +Midnight, Central Time, of the last day of the stated month. A +preliminary version may often be posted for suggestion, comment +and editing by those who wish to do so. + +Most people start at our Web sites at: +http://gutenberg.net or +http://promo.net/pg + +These Web sites include award-winning information about Project +Gutenberg, including how to donate, how to help produce our new +eBooks, and how to subscribe to our email newsletter (free!). + + +Those of you who want to download any eBook before announcement +can get to them as follows, and just download by date. This is +also a good way to get them instantly upon announcement, as the +indexes our cataloguers produce obviously take a while after an +announcement goes out in the Project Gutenberg Newsletter. + +http://www.ibiblio.org/gutenberg/etext04 or +ftp://ftp.ibiblio.org/pub/docs/books/gutenberg/etext04 + +Or /etext03, 02, 01, 00, 99, 98, 97, 96, 95, 94, 93, 92, 92, 91 or 90 + +Just search by the first five letters of the filename you want, +as it appears in our Newsletters. + + +Information about Project Gutenberg (one page) + +We produce about two million dollars for each hour we work. The +time it takes us, a rather conservative estimate, is fifty hours +to get any eBook selected, entered, proofread, edited, copyright +searched and analyzed, the copyright letters written, etc. Our +projected audience is one hundred million readers. If the value +per text is nominally estimated at one dollar then we produce $2 +million dollars per hour in 2002 as we release over 100 new text +files per month: 1240 more eBooks in 2001 for a total of 4000+ +We are already on our way to trying for 2000 more eBooks in 2002 +If they reach just 1-2% of the world's population then the total +will reach over half a trillion eBooks given away by year's end. + +The Goal of Project Gutenberg is to Give Away 1 Trillion eBooks! +This is ten thousand titles each to one hundred million readers, +which is only about 4% of the present number of computer users. + +Here is the briefest record of our progress (* means estimated): + +eBooks Year Month + + 1 1971 July + 10 1991 January + 100 1994 January + 1000 1997 August + 1500 1998 October + 2000 1999 December + 2500 2000 December + 3000 2001 November + 4000 2001 October/November + 6000 2002 December* + 9000 2003 November* +10000 2004 January* + + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation has been created +to secure a future for Project Gutenberg into the next millennium. + +We need your donations more than ever! + +As of February, 2002, contributions are being solicited from people +and organizations in: Alabama, Alaska, Arkansas, Connecticut, +Delaware, District of Columbia, Florida, Georgia, Hawaii, Illinois, +Indiana, Iowa, Kansas, Kentucky, Louisiana, Maine, Massachusetts, +Michigan, Mississippi, Missouri, Montana, Nebraska, Nevada, New +Hampshire, New Jersey, New Mexico, New York, North Carolina, Ohio, +Oklahoma, Oregon, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, South Carolina, South +Dakota, Tennessee, Texas, Utah, Vermont, Virginia, Washington, West +Virginia, Wisconsin, and Wyoming. + +We have filed in all 50 states now, but these are the only ones +that have responded. + +As the requirements for other states are met, additions to this list +will be made and fund raising will begin in the additional states. +Please feel free to ask to check the status of your state. + +In answer to various questions we have received on this: + +We are constantly working on finishing the paperwork to legally +request donations in all 50 states. If your state is not listed and +you would like to know if we have added it since the list you have, +just ask. + +While we cannot solicit donations from people in states where we are +not yet registered, we know of no prohibition against accepting +donations from donors in these states who approach us with an offer to +donate. + +International donations are accepted, but we don't know ANYTHING about +how to make them tax-deductible, or even if they CAN be made +deductible, and don't have the staff to handle it even if there are +ways. + +Donations by check or money order may be sent to: + +Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation +PMB 113 +1739 University Ave. +Oxford, MS 38655-4109 + +Contact us if you want to arrange for a wire transfer or payment +method other than by check or money order. + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation has been approved by +the US Internal Revenue Service as a 501(c)(3) organization with EIN +[Employee Identification Number] 64-622154. Donations are +tax-deductible to the maximum extent permitted by law. As fund-raising +requirements for other states are met, additions to this list will be +made and fund-raising will begin in the additional states. + +We need your donations more than ever! + +You can get up to date donation information online at: + +http://www.gutenberg.net/donation.html + + +*** + +If you can't reach Project Gutenberg, +you can always email directly to: + +Michael S. Hart <hart@pobox.com> + +Prof. Hart will answer or forward your message. + +We would prefer to send you information by email. + + +**The Legal Small Print** + + +(Three Pages) + +***START**THE SMALL PRINT!**FOR PUBLIC DOMAIN EBOOKS**START*** +Why is this "Small Print!" statement here? You know: lawyers. +They tell us you might sue us if there is something wrong with +your copy of this eBook, even if you got it for free from +someone other than us, and even if what's wrong is not our +fault. So, among other things, this "Small Print!" statement +disclaims most of our liability to you. It also tells you how +you may distribute copies of this eBook if you want to. + +*BEFORE!* YOU USE OR READ THIS EBOOK +By using or reading any part of this PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm +eBook, you indicate that you understand, agree to and accept +this "Small Print!" statement. If you do not, you can receive +a refund of the money (if any) you paid for this eBook by +sending a request within 30 days of receiving it to the person +you got it from. If you received this eBook on a physical +medium (such as a disk), you must return it with your request. + +ABOUT PROJECT GUTENBERG-TM EBOOKS +This PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm eBook, like most PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm eBooks, +is a "public domain" work distributed by Professor Michael S. Hart +through the Project Gutenberg Association (the "Project"). +Among other things, this means that no one owns a United States copyright +on or for this work, so the Project (and you!) can copy and +distribute it in the United States without permission and +without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, set forth +below, apply if you wish to copy and distribute this eBook +under the "PROJECT GUTENBERG" trademark. + +Please do not use the "PROJECT GUTENBERG" trademark to market +any commercial products without permission. + +To create these eBooks, the Project expends considerable +efforts to identify, transcribe and proofread public domain +works. Despite these efforts, the Project's eBooks and any +medium they may be on may contain "Defects". Among other +things, Defects may take the form of incomplete, inaccurate or +corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other +intellectual property infringement, a defective or damaged +disk or other eBook medium, a computer virus, or computer +codes that damage or cannot be read by your equipment. + +LIMITED WARRANTY; DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES +But for the "Right of Replacement or Refund" described below, +[1] Michael Hart and the Foundation (and any other party you may +receive this eBook from as a PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm eBook) disclaims +all liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including +legal fees, and [2] YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE OR +UNDER STRICT LIABILITY, OR FOR BREACH OF WARRANTY OR CONTRACT, +INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE +OR INCIDENTAL DAMAGES, EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE +POSSIBILITY OF SUCH DAMAGES. + +If you discover a Defect in this eBook within 90 days of +receiving it, you can receive a refund of the money (if any) +you paid for it by sending an explanatory note within that +time to the person you received it from. If you received it +on a physical medium, you must return it with your note, and +such person may choose to alternatively give you a replacement +copy. If you received it electronically, such person may +choose to alternatively give you a second opportunity to +receive it electronically. + +THIS EBOOK IS OTHERWISE PROVIDED TO YOU "AS-IS". NO OTHER +WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, ARE MADE TO YOU AS +TO THE EBOOK OR ANY MEDIUM IT MAY BE ON, INCLUDING BUT NOT +LIMITED TO WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A +PARTICULAR PURPOSE. + +Some states do not allow disclaimers of implied warranties or +the exclusion or limitation of consequential damages, so the +above disclaimers and exclusions may not apply to you, and you +may have other legal rights. + +INDEMNITY +You will indemnify and hold Michael Hart, the Foundation, +and its trustees and agents, and any volunteers associated +with the production and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm +texts harmless, from all liability, cost and expense, including +legal fees, that arise directly or indirectly from any of the +following that you do or cause: [1] distribution of this eBook, +[2] alteration, modification, or addition to the eBook, +or [3] any Defect. + +DISTRIBUTION UNDER "PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm" +You may distribute copies of this eBook electronically, or by +disk, book or any other medium if you either delete this +"Small Print!" and all other references to Project Gutenberg, +or: + +[1] Only give exact copies of it. Among other things, this + requires that you do not remove, alter or modify the + eBook or this "small print!" statement. You may however, + if you wish, distribute this eBook in machine readable + binary, compressed, mark-up, or proprietary form, + including any form resulting from conversion by word + processing or hypertext software, but only so long as + *EITHER*: + + [*] The eBook, when displayed, is clearly readable, and + does *not* contain characters other than those + intended by the author of the work, although tilde + (~), asterisk (*) and underline (_) characters may + be used to convey punctuation intended by the + author, and additional characters may be used to + indicate hypertext links; OR + + [*] The eBook may be readily converted by the reader at + no expense into plain ASCII, EBCDIC or equivalent + form by the program that displays the eBook (as is + the case, for instance, with most word processors); + OR + + [*] You provide, or agree to also provide on request at + no additional cost, fee or expense, a copy of the + eBook in its original plain ASCII form (or in EBCDIC + or other equivalent proprietary form). + +[2] Honor the eBook refund and replacement provisions of this + "Small Print!" statement. + +[3] Pay a trademark license fee to the Foundation of 20% of the + gross profits you derive calculated using the method you + already use to calculate your applicable taxes. If you + don't derive profits, no royalty is due. Royalties are + payable to "Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation" + the 60 days following each date you prepare (or were + legally required to prepare) your annual (or equivalent + periodic) tax return. Please contact us beforehand to + let us know your plans and to work out the details. + +WHAT IF YOU *WANT* TO SEND MONEY EVEN IF YOU DON'T HAVE TO? +Project Gutenberg is dedicated to increasing the number of +public domain and licensed works that can be freely distributed +in machine readable form. + +The Project gratefully accepts contributions of money, time, +public domain materials, or royalty free copyright licenses. +Money should be paid to the: +"Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." + +If you are interested in contributing scanning equipment or +software or other items, please contact Michael Hart at: +hart@pobox.com + +[Portions of this eBook's header and trailer may be reprinted only +when distributed free of all fees. Copyright (C) 2001, 2002 by +Michael S. Hart. Project Gutenberg is a TradeMark and may not be +used in any sales of Project Gutenberg eBooks or other materials be +they hardware or software or any other related product without +express permission.] + +*END THE SMALL PRINT! FOR PUBLIC DOMAIN EBOOKS*Ver.02/11/02*END* + diff --git a/old/8vcv210u.zip b/old/8vcv210u.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d687d1e --- /dev/null +++ b/old/8vcv210u.zip |