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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..24ba796 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #66813 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/66813) diff --git a/old/66813-0.txt b/old/66813-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index c2678de..0000000 --- a/old/66813-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,16888 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Lake Regions of Central Africa, by -Richard Francis Burton - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this eBook. - -Title: The Lake Regions of Central Africa - A Picture of Exploration, Vol. 2 - -Author: Richard Francis Burton - -Release Date: November 24, 2021 [eBook #66813] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -Produced by: Emmanuel Ackerman, Harry Lamé and the Online Distributed - Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was - produced from images generously made available by The Internet - Archive) - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LAKE REGIONS OF CENTRAL -AFRICA *** - - - Transcriber’s Notes - - Text printed in italics has been transcribed _between underscores_, - bold face text =between equal signs=. Small capitals have been changed - to ALL CAPITALS. Superscript text is represented by ^{text}. - - More Transcriber’s Notes may be found at the end of this text. - - - - - THE - LAKE REGIONS OF CENTRAL AFRICA - - VOL II. - - - - - LONDON - PRINTED BY SPOTTISWOODE AND CO. - NEW-STREET SQUARE - -[Illustration: NAVIGATION OF THE TANGANYIKA LAKE.] - - - - - THE - LAKE REGIONS OF CENTRAL AFRICA - - A PICTURE OF EXPLORATION - - BY - - RICHARD F. BURTON - Capt. H. M. I. Army: Fellow and Gold Medallist of the Royal - Geographical Society - - “_Some to discover islands far away_”--_Shakspere_ - - IN TWO VOLUMES - - VOL. II. - - LONDON LONGMAN, GREEN, LONGMAN, AND ROBERTS 1860 - - _The right of translation is reserved_ - - - - - CONTENTS - OF - THE SECOND VOLUME. - - - Page - - CHAPTER XII. - The Geography and Ethnology of Unyamwezi.--The Fourth Region 1 - - CHAP. XIII. - At length we sight the Lake Tanganyika, the “Sea of Ujiji.” 34 - - CHAP. XIV. - We explore the Tanganyika Lake 80 - - CHAP. XV. - The Tanganyika Lake and its Periplus 134 - - CHAP. XVI. - We return to Unyanyembe 155 - - CHAP. XVII. - The Down-march to the Coast 223 - - CHAP. XVIII. - Village Life in East Africa 278 - - CHAP. XIX. - The Character and Religion of the East Africans; their Government, - and Slavery 324 - - Conclusion 379 - - APPENDICES. - APPENDIX I.: Commerce, Imports, and Exports 387 - APPENDIX II.: Official Correspondence 420 - - - - - LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS - IN - THE SECOND VOLUME. - - - CHROMOXYLOGRAPHS. - - Navigation of the Tanganyika Lake _Frontispiece._ - View in Usagara _to face page_ 1 - Snay bin Amir’s House „ 155 - Saydumi, a native of Uganda „ 223 - The Basin of Maroro „ 255 - The Basin of Kisanga „ 278 - Map of the Routes between Zanzibar and the Great Lakes in Eastern - Africa in 1857, 1858 & 1859, by R. F. Burton - - - WOODCUTS. - - Iwanza, or public-houses; with Looms to the left 1 - My Tembe near the Tangangika 34 - Head Dresses of Wanyamwezi 80 - African heads, and Ferry-boat 134 - Portraits of Muinyi Kidogo, the Kirangozi, the Mganga, &c. 155 - Mgongo Thembo, or the Elephant’s Back 223 - Jiwe la Mkoa, the Round Rock 242 - Rufita Pass in Usagara 259 - The Ivory Porter, the Cloth Porter, and Woman in Usagara 278 - Gourd, Stool, Bellows, Guitar, and Drum 292 - Gourds 313 - A Mnyamwezi and a Mheha 324 - The Bull-headed Mabruki, and the African standing position 378 - The Elephant Rock 384 - -[Illustration: VIEW IN USAGARA.] - - - - - THE - LAKE REGIONS OF CENTRAL AFRICA. - -[Illustration: A village interior in the Land of the Moon. - -Utanta or loom. - -Iwanza, or public houses.] - - - - -CHAPTER XII. - -THE GEOGRAPHY AND ETHNOLOGY OF UNYAMWEZI.--THE FOURTH REGION. - - -The fourth division is a hilly table-land, extending from the western -skirts of the desert Mgunda Mk’hali, in E. long. 33° 57′, to the eastern -banks of the Malagarazi River, in E. long. 31° 10′: it thus stretches -diagonally over 155 rectilinear geographical miles. Bounded on the north -by Usui and the Nyanza Lake, to the south-eastwards by Ugala, southwards -by Ukimbu, and south-westwards by Uwende, it has a depth of from -twenty-five to thirty marches. Native caravans, if lightly laden, can -accomplish it in twenty-five days, including four halts. The maximum -altitude observed by B. P. therm. was 4050 feet, the minimum 2850. This -region contains the two great divisions of Unyamwezi and Uvinza. - -The name of Unyamwezi was first heard by the Portuguese, according to -Giovanni Botero, towards the end of the sixteenth century, or about -1589. Pigafetta, who, in 1591, systematised the discoveries of the -earlier Portuguese, placed the empire of “Monemugi” or Munimigi in a -vast triangular area, whose limits were Monomotapa, Congo, and -Abyssinia: from his pages it appears that the people of this central -kingdom were closely connected by commerce with the towns on the eastern -coast of Africa. According to Dapper, the Dutch historian, (1671,) whose -work has been the great mine of information to subsequent writers upon -Africa south of the equator, about sixty days’ journey from the Atlantic -is the kingdom of Monemugi, which others call “Nimeamaye,” a name still -retained under the corrupted form “Nimeaye” in our atlases. M. -Malte-Brun, senior, mentioning Mounemugi, adds, “ou, selon une -autographe plus authentique, _Mou-nimougi_.” All the Portuguese authors -call the people Monemugi or Mono-emugi; Mr. Cooley prefers Monomoezi, -which he derives from “Munha Munge,” or “lord of the world,” the title -of a great African king in the interior, commemorated by the historian -De Barros. Mr. Macqueen (‘Geography of Central Africa’), who also gives -Manmoise, declares that “Mueno-muge, Mueno-muize, Monomoise, and -Uniamese,” relate to the same place and people, comprehending a large -extent of country in the interior of Africa: he explains the word -erroneously to mean the “great Moises or Movisas.” The Rev. Mr. Erhardt -asserts that for facility of pronunciation the coast merchants have -turned the name “Wanamesi” into “Waniamesi,” which also leads his -readers into error. The Rev. Mr. Livingstone thus endorses the mistake -of Messrs. Macqueen and Erhardt: “The names Monomoizes, spelt also -Monemuigis and Monomuizes, and Monomotapistas, when applied to the -tribes, are exactly the same as if we should call the Scotch the Lord -Douglases.... Monomoizes was formed from Moiza or Muiza, the singular of -the word Babisa or Aiza, the proper name of a large tribe to the north.” -In these sentences there is a confusion between the lands of the -Wanyamwezi, lying under the parallel of the Tanganyika Lake, and the -Wabisa (in the singular Mbísá, the Wavisa of the Rev. Mr. Rebmann), a -well-known commercial tribe dwelling about the Maravi or Nyassa Lake, -S.W. of Kilwa, whose name in times of old was corrupted by the -Portuguese to Movizas or Movisas. Finally M. Guillain, in a work already -alluded to, states correctly the name of the people to be Oua-nyamouczi, -but in designating the country “pays de Nyamouezi,” he shows little -knowledge of the Zangian dialects. M. V. A. Malte-Brun, junior -(‘Bulletin de Géographie,’ Paris, 1856, Part II. p. 295) correctly -writes Wanyamwezi. - -A name so discrepantly corrupted deserves some notice. Unyamwezi is -translated by Dr. Krapf and the Rev. Mr. Rebmann, “Possessions of the -Moon.” The initial U, the causal and locative prefix, denotes the land, -nya, of, and mwezi, articulated m’ezí with semi-elision of the w, means -the moon. The people sometimes pronounce their country name Unyamiezi, -which would be a plural form, miezi signifying moons or months. The -Arabs and the people of Zanzibar, for facility and rapidity of -pronunciation, dispense with the initial dissyllable, and call the -country and its race Mwezi. The correct designation of the inhabitants -of Unyamwezi is, therefore, Mnyamwezi in the singular, and Wanyamwezi in -the plural: Kinyamwezi is the adjectival form. It is not a little -curious that the Greeks should have placed their της σεληνης ορος--the -mountain of the moon--and the Hindus their Soma Giri (an expression -probably translated from the former), in the vicinity of the African -“Land of the Moon.” It is impossible to investigate the antiquity of the -vernacular term; all that can be discovered is, that nearly 350 years -ago the Portuguese explorers of Western Africa heard the country -designated by its present name. - -There is the evidence of barbarous tradition for a belief in the -existence of Unyamwezi as a great empire, united under a single despot. -The elders declare that their patriarchal ancestor became after death -the first tree, and afforded shade to his children and descendants. -According to the Arabs the people still perform pilgrimage to a holy -tree, and believe that the penalty of sacrilege in cutting off a twig -would be visited by sudden and mysterious death. All agree in relating -that during the olden time Unyamwezi was united under a single -sovereign, whose tribe was the Wakalaganza, still inhabiting the western -district, Usagozi. According to the people, whose greatest chronical -measure is a Masika, or rainy season, in the days of the grandfathers of -their grandfathers the last of the Wanyamwezi emperors died. His -children and nobles divided and dismembered his dominions, further -partitions ensued, and finally the old empire fell into the hands of a -rabble of petty chiefs. Their wild computation would point to an epoch -of 150 years ago--a date by no means improbable. - -These glimmerings of light thrown by African tradition illustrate the -accounts given by the early Portuguese concerning the extent and the -civilisation of the Unyamwezi empire. Moreover, African travellers in -the seventeenth century concur in asserting that, between 250 and 300 -years ago, there was an outpouring of the barbarians from the heart of -Æthiopia and from the shores of the Central Lake towards the eastern and -southern coasts of the peninsula, a general waving and wandering of -tribes which caused great ethnological and geographical confusion, -public demoralisation, dismemberment of races, and change, confusion, -and corruption of tongues. About this period it is supposed the kingdom -of Mtándá, the first Kazembe, was established. The Kafirs of the Cape -also date their migration from the northern regions to the banks of the -Kei about a century and a half ago. - -In these days Unyamwezi has returned to the political status of Eastern -Africa in the time of the Periplus. It is broken up into petty -divisions, each ruled by its own tyrant; his authority never extends -beyond five marches; moreover, the minor chiefs of the different -districts are virtually independent of their suzerains. One language is -spoken throughout the land of the Moon, but the dialectic differences -are such that the tribes in the east with difficulty understand their -brethren in the west. The principal provinces are--Utakama to the -extreme north, Usukuma on the south,--in Kinyamwezi sukuma means the -north, takama the south, kiya the east, and mwere the west,--Unyanyembe -in the centre, Ufyoma and Utumbara in the north-west, Unyangwira in the -south-east, Usagozi and Usumbwá to the westward. The three normal -divisions of the people are into Wanyamwezi, Wasukuma or northern, and -Watakama or southern. - -The general character of Unyamwezi is rolling ground, intersected with -low conical and tabular hills, whose lines ramify in all directions. No -mountain is found in the country. The superjacent stratum is clay, -overlying the sandstone based upon various granites, which in some -places crop out, picturesquely disposed in blocks and boulders and huge -domes and lumpy masses; ironstone is met with at a depth varying from -five to twelve feet, and at Kazeh, the Arab settlement in Unyanyembe, -bits of coarse ore were found by digging not more than four feet in a -chance spot. During the rains a coat of many-tinted greens conceals the -soil; in the dry season the land is grey, lighted up by golden stubbles -and dotted with wind-distorted trees, shallow swamps of emerald grass, -and wide sheets of dark mud. Dwarfed stumps and charred “black-jacks” -deform the fields, which are sometimes ditched or hedged in, whilst a -thin forest of parachute-shaped thorns diversifies the waves of rolling -land and earth-hills spotted with sun-burnt stone. The reclaimed tracts -and clearings are divided from one another by strips of primæval jungle, -varying from two to twelve miles in length. As in most parts of Eastern -Africa, the country is dotted with “fairy mounts”--dwarf mounds, the -ancient sites of trees now crumbled to dust, and the débris of insect -architecture; they appear to be rich ground, as they are always -diligently cultivated. The yield of the soil, according to the Arabs, -averages sixty-fold, even in unfavourable seasons. - -The Land of the Moon, which is the garden of Central Intertropical -Africa, presents an aspect of peaceful rural beauty which soothes the -eye like a medicine after the red glare of barren Ugogo, and the dark -monotonous verdure of the western provinces. The inhabitants are -comparatively numerous in the villages, which rise at short intervals -above their impervious walls of the lustrous green milk-bush, with its -coral-shaped arms, variegating the well-hoed plains; whilst in the -pasture-lands frequent herds of many-coloured cattle, plump, -round-barrelled, and high-humped, like the Indian breeds, and mingled -flocks of goats and sheep dispersed over the landscape, suggest ideas of -barbarous comfort and plenty. There are few scenes more soft and -soothing than a view of Unyamwezi in the balmy evenings of spring. As -the large yellow sun nears the horizon, a deep stillness falls upon -earth: even the zephyr seems to lose the power of rustling the lightest -leaf. The milky haze of midday disappears from the firmament, the flush -of departing day mantles the distant features of scenery with a lovely -rose-tint, and the twilight is an orange glow that burns like distant -horizontal fires, passing upwards through an imperceptibly graduated -scale of colours--saffron, yellow, tender green, and the lightest -azure--into the dark blue of the infinite space above. The charm of the -hour seems to affect even the unimaginative Africans, as they sit in the -central spaces of their villages, or, stretched under the forest-trees, -gaze upon the glories around. - -In Unyamwezi water generally lies upon the surface, during the rains, in -broad shallow pools, which become favourite sites for rice-fields. These -little ziwa and mbuga--ponds and marshes--vary from two to five feet -below the level of the land; in the dry season they are betrayed from -afar by a green line of livelier vegetation streaking the dead tawny -plain. The Arabs seldom dig their wells deeper than six feet, and they -complain of the want of “live-water” gushing from the rocky ground, as -in their native Oman. The country contains few springs, and the surface -of retentive clay prevents the moisture penetrating to the subsoil. The -peculiarity of the produce is its decided chalybeate flavour. The -versant of the country varies. The eastern third, falling to the -south-east, discharges its surplus supplies through the Rwaha river into -the Indian Ocean; in the centre, water seems to stagnate; and in the -western third, the flow, turning to the north and north-west, is carried -by the Gombe nullah--a string of pools during the dry season, and a -rapid unfordable stream during the rains--into the great Malagarazi -river, the principal eastern influent of the Tanganyika Lake. The levels -of the country and the direction of the waters combine to prove that the -great depression of Central Africa, alluded to in the preceding chapter, -commences in the district of Kigwa in Unyamwezi. - -The climate of the island and coast of Zanzibar has, it must be -remembered, double seasons, which are exceedingly confused and -irregular. The lands of Unyamwezi and Uvinza, on the other hand, are as -remarkable for simplicity of division. There eight seasons disturb the -idea of year; here but two--a summer and a winter. Central Africa has, -as the Spaniards say of the Philippine Isles, - - “Seis mezes de polvo, - Seis mezes de lodo.” - -In 1857 the Masika, or rains, commenced throughout Eastern Unyamwezi on -the 14th of November. In the northern and western provinces the wet -monsoon begins earlier and lasts longer. At Msene it precedes Unyanyembe -about a month; in Ujiji, Karagwah, and Uganda, nearly two months. Thus -the latter countries have a rainy season which lasts from the middle of -September till the middle of May. - -The moisture-bearing wind in this part of Africa is the fixed south-east -trade, deflected, as in the great valley of the Mississippi and in the -island of Ceylon, into a periodical south-west monsoon. As will appear -in these pages, the downfalls begin earlier in Central Africa than upon -the eastern coast, and from the latter point they travel by slow -degrees, with the northing sun, to the north-east, till they find a -grave upon the rocky slopes of the Himalayas. - -The rainy monsoon is here ushered in, accompanied, and terminated by -storms of thunder and lightning, and occasional hail-falls. The blinding -flashes of white, yellow, or rose colour play over the firmament -uninterruptedly for hours, during which no darkness is visible. In the -lighter storms thirty and thirty-five flashes may be counted in a -minute: so vivid is the glare that it discloses the finest shades of -colour, and appears followed by a thick and palpable gloom, such as -would hang before a blind man’s eyes, whilst a deafening roar -simultaneously following the flash, seems to travel, as it were, to and -fro overhead. Several claps sometimes sound almost at the same moment, -and as if coming from different directions. The same storm will, after -the most violent of its discharges, pass over, and be immediately -followed by a second, showing the superabundance of electricity in the -atmosphere. When hail is about to fall, a rushing noise is heard in the -air, with sudden coolness and a strange darkness from the canopy of -brownish purple clouds. The winds are exceedingly variable: perhaps they -are most often from the east and north-east during summer, from the -north-west and south-west in the rains; but they are answered from all -quarters of the heavens, and the most violent storms sail up against the -lower atmospheric currents. The Portuguese of the Mozambique attribute -these terrible discharges of electricity to the quantity of mineral -substances scattered about the country; but a steaming land like Eastern -Africa wants, during the rains, no stronger battery. In the rainy season -the sensation is that experienced during the equinoctial gales in the -Mediterranean, where the scirocco diffuses everywhere discomfort and -disease. The fall is not, as in Western India, a steady downpour, -lasting sometimes two or three days without a break. In Central Africa, -rain seldom endures beyond twelve hours, and it often assumes for weeks -an appearance of regularity, re-occurring at a certain time. Night is -its normal season; the mornings are often wet, and the torrid midday is -generally dry. As in Southern Africa, a considerable decrease of -temperature is the consequence of long-continued rain. Westward of -Unyanyembe, hail-storms, during the rainy monsoon, are frequent and -violent; according to the Arabs, the stones sometimes rival pigeons’ -eggs in size. Throughout this monsoon the sun burns with sickly -depressing rays, which make earth reek like a garment hung out to dry. -Yet this is not considered the unhealthy period: the inundation is too -deep, and evaporation is yet unable to extract sufficient poison from -decay. - -As in India and the southern regions of Africa, the deadly season -follows the wet monsoon from the middle of May to the end of June. The -kosi or south-west wind gives place to the kaskazi, or north-east, -about April, a little later than at Zanzibar. The cold gales and the -fervid suns then affect the outspread waters; the rivers, having swollen -during the weeks of violent downfall that usher in the end of the rains, -begin to shrink, and miry morasses and swamps of black vegetable mud -line the low-lands whose central depths are still under water. The -winds, cooled by excessive evaporation and set in motion by the heat, -howl over the country by night and day, dispersing through the -population colds and catarrhs, agues and rheumatisms, dysenteries and -deadly fevers. It must, however, be remarked that many cases which in -India and Sindh would be despaired of, survived in Eastern Africa. - -The hot season, or summer, lasting from the end of June till nearly the -middle of November, forms the complement of the year. The air now -becomes healthy and temperate; the cold, raw winds rarely blow, and the -people recover from their transition diseases. At long intervals, during -these months, but a few grateful and refreshing showers, accompanied by -low thunderings, cool the air and give life to the earth. These -phenomena are expected after the change of the moon, and not, as in -Zanzibar, during her last quarter. The Arabs declare that here, as in -the island, rain sometimes falls from a clear sky--a phenomenon not -unknown to African travellers. The drought affects the country severely, -a curious exception to the rule in the zone of perpetual rain; and after -August whirlwinds of dust become frequent. At this time the climate is -most agreeable to the senses; even in the hottest nights a blanket is -welcome, especially about dawn, and it is possible to dine at 3 or 4 -P.M., when in India the exertion would be impracticable. During the day -a ring-cloud, or a screen of vapour, almost invariably tempers the -solar rays; at night a halo, or a corona, generally encircles the moon. -The clouds are chiefly cumulus, cumulo-stratus, and nimbus; the sky is -often overcast with large white masses floating, apparently without -motion, upon the milky haze, and in the serenest weather a few threads -are seen pencilled upon the expanse above. Sunrise is seldom thoroughly -clear, and, when so, the clouds, sublimed in other regions and brought -up by the rising winds, begin to gather in the forenoon. They are -melted, as it were, by the fervent heat of the sun between noon and 3 -P.M., at which time also the breezes fall light. Thick mists collect -about sunset, and by night the skies are seldom free from clouds. The -want of heat to dilate the atmosphere at this season, and the -light-absorbing vegetation which clothes the land, causes a peculiar -dimness in the Galaxy and “Magellan’s Clouds.” The twilight also is -short, and the zodiacal light is not observed. The suffocating sensation -of the tropics is unknown, and at noon in the month of September--the -midsummer of this region--the thermometer, defended from the wind, in a -single-fold Arab tent, never exceeded 113° Fahr. Except during the -rains, the dews are not heavy, as in Zanzibar, in the alluvial valleys, -and in Usagara and Ujiji: the people do not fear exposure to them, -though, as in parts of France, they consider dew-wetted grass -unwholesome for cattle. The Arabs stand bathing in the occasional -torrents of rain without the least apprehension. The temperature varies -too little for the European constitution, which requires a winter. The -people, however, scarcely care to clothe themselves. The flies and -mosquitoes--those pests of most African countries--are here a minor -annoyance. - -The principal cause of disease during the summer of Unyamwezi is the -east wind, which, refrigerated by the damp alluvial valleys of the first -region and the tree-clad peaks and swampy plains of Usagara, sweeps the -country, like the tramontanas of Italy, with a freezing cold in the -midst of an atmosphere properly tepid. These unnatural combinations of -extremes, causing sudden chills when the skin perspires, bring on -inevitable disease; strangers often suffer severely, and the influenza -is as much feared in Unyamwezi as in England. The east wind is even more -dangerous in the hut than in the field: draughts from the four quarters -play upon the patient, making one side of the body tremble with cold, -whilst the other, defended by the wall or heated by the fire, burns with -fever-glow. The gales are most violent immediately after the cessation -of the rains; about the beginning of August they become warmer and fall -light. At this time frequent whirlwinds sweep from the sun-parched land -clouds of a fine and penetrating clay-dust; and slight shocks of -earthquakes are by no means uncommon. Three were observed by the -Expedition--at noon on the 14th of June, 1858; on the morning of the -13th of June; and at 5 P.M. on the 22nd of November, 1858. The motion, -though mild, was distinctly perceptible; unfortunately, means of -ascertaining the direction were wanted. The people of the country call -this phenomenon “Tetemeka,” or the trembling; and the Arabs remember a -shock of a serious nature which took place at Unyanyembe in the hot -season of 1852. After September, though the land is parched with -drought, the trees begin to put forth their leaves; it is the coupling -season of beasts, and the period of nidification and incubation for -birds. The gradual lowering of the temperature, caused by the southern -declination of the sun, acts like the genial warmth of an English -spring. As all sudden changes from siccity to humidity are prejudicial -to man, there is invariably severe disease at the end of the summer, -when the rains set in. - -Travellers from Unyamwezi homeward returned often represent that country -to be the healthiest in Eastern and Central Africa: they quote, as a -proof, the keenness of their appetites and the quantity of food which -they consume. The older residents, however, modify their opinions: they -declare that digestion does not wait upon appetite; and that, as in -Egypt, Mazanderan, Malabar, and other hot-damp countries, no man long -retains rude health. The sequelæ of their maladies are always severe; -few care to use remedies, deeming them inefficacious against morbific -influences to them unknown; convalescence is protracted, painful, and -uncertain, and at length they are compelled to lead the lives of -confirmed invalids. The gifts of the climate, lassitude and indolence, -according to them, predispose to corpulence; and the regular warmth -induces baldness, and thins the beard, thus assimilating strangers in -body as in mind to the aborigines. They are unanimous in quoting a -curious effect of climate, which they attribute to a corruption of the -“humours and juices of the body.” Men who, after a lengthened sojourn in -these regions return to Oman, throw away the surplus provisions brought -from the African coast, burn their clothes and bedding, and for the -first two or three months eschew society; a peculiar effluvium rendering -them, it is said, offensive to the finer olfactories of their -compatriots. - -The Mukunguru of Unyamwezi is perhaps the severest seasoning fever in -this part of Africa. It is a bilious remittent, which normally lasts -three days; it wonderfully reduces the patient in that short period, and -in severe cases the quotidian is followed by a long attack of a tertian -type. The consequences are severe and lasting even in men of the -strongest nervous diathesis; burning and painful eyes, hot palms and -soles, a recurrence of shivering and flushing fits, with the extremities -now icy cold, then painfully hot and swollen, indigestion, insomnolency, -cutaneous eruptions and fever sores, languor, dejection, and all the -inconveniences resulting from torpidity of liver, or from an inordinate -secretion of bile, betray the poison deep-lurking in the system. In some -cases this fever works speedily; some even, becoming at once delirious, -die on the first or the second day, and there is invariably an -exacerbation of symptoms before the bilious remittent passes away. - -The fauna of Unyamwezi are similar to those described in Usagara and -Ugogo. In the jungles quadrumana are numerous; lions and leopards, -cynhyænas and wild cats haunt the forests; the elephant and the -rhinoceros, the giraffe and the Cape buffalo, the zebra, the quagga (?), -and the koodoo wander over the plains; and the hippopotamus and -crocodile are found in every large pool. The nyanyi or cynocephalus in -the jungles of Usukuma attains the size of a greyhound; according to the -people, there are three varieties of colour--red, black, and yellow. -They are the terror of the neighbouring districts: women never dare to -approach their haunts; they set the leopard at defiance, and, when in a -large body, they do not, it is said, fear the lion. The Colobus guereza, -or tippet monkey, the “polume” of Dr. Livingstone (ch. xvi.), here -called mbega, is admired on account of its polished black skin and -snowy-white mane. It is a cleanly animal, ever occupied in polishing -its beautiful garb, which, according to the Arabs, it tears to pieces -when wounded, lest the hunter should profit by it. The mbega lives in -trees, seldom descending, and feeds upon the fruit and the young leaves. -The Arabs speak of wild dogs in the vicinity of Unyanyembe, describing -them as being about eighteen inches in height, with rufous-black and -shaggy coats, and long thick tails; they are gregarious, running in -packs of from 20 to 200; they attack indiscriminately man and the -largest animals, and their only cry is a howl. About the time of our -autumn the pools are visited by various kinds of aquatic birds, widgeon, -plump little teal, fine snipe, curlew, and crane; the ardea, or white -“paddy-bird” of India, and the “lily-trotter” (Parra Africana), are -scattered over the country; and sometimes, though rarely, the chenalopex -or common Egyptian-goose and the gorgeous-crowned crane (Balearica -pavonina), the latter a favourite dish with the Arabs, appear. In -several parts of Unyamwezi, especially in the north, there is a large -and well-flavoured species of black-backed goose (Sakidornis melanota): -the common wild duck of England was not seen. Several specimens of the -Buceros, the secretary-bird (Serpentarius reptilivorus), and large -vultures, probably the condor of the Cape, were observed in Unyamwezi; -the people do not molest them, holding the flesh to be carrion. The -Cuculus indicator, called in Kisawahili “tongoe,” is common; but, its -honey being mostly hived, it does not attract attention. Grillivori, and -a species of thrush, about the size of common larks, with sulphur-yellow -patches under the eyes, and two naked black striæ beneath the throat, -are here migratory birds; they do good service to the agriculturist -against the locust. A variety of the Loxia or grossbill constructs -nests sometimes in bunches hanging from the lower branches of the trees. -The mtiko, a kind of water-wagtail (Motacilla), ventures into the huts -with the audacity of a London sparrow, and the Africans have a prejudice -against killing it. Swallows and martins of various kinds, some -peculiarly graceful and slender, may be seen migrating at the approach -of winter in regular travelling order: of these, one variety resembles -the English bird. The Africans declare that a single species of hirundo, -probably the sand-martin, builds in the precipitous earth-banks of the -nullahs: their nests were not seen, however, as in Southern Africa, -under the eaves of houses. There are a few ostriches, hawks, ravens, -plovers, nightjars (Caprimulgidæ), red and blue jays of brilliant plume, -muscicapæ, blackcaps or mock nightingales (Motacilla atrocapilla?), -passerines of various kinds, hoopoes, bulbuls, wrens, larks, and -bats. We saw but few poisonous animals. Besides the dendrophis, the -only ophidia killed in the country were snakes, with slate-coloured -backs, and silver bellies, resembling the harmless “mas” or -“hanash” of Somaliland, the Psammophis sibilaris (L.); C. moniliger -Lacépède,--according to Mr. Blyth (“Journal of the As. Soc. of Bengal,” -vol. xxiv., p. 306), who declares it to be not venomous--they abound in -the houses and destroy the rats. The people speak of a yellow and -brown-coated snake, eight feet long by five or six inches in diameter; -it is probably a boa or rock-snake. Chúrá or frogs are numerous in the -swamps, where the frog-concerts resemble those of the New World; and in -the regions about the Tanganyika Lake a large variety makes night -hideous with its croakings. Of the ranæ there are many species. The -largest is probably the “matmalelo” of S. Africa; it is eaten by the -Wagogo and other tribes. A smaller kind is of dark colour, and with long -legs, which enable it to hop great distances. A third is of a dirty -yellow, with brownish speckles. There is also a little green tree-frog, -which adheres to the broad and almost perpendicular leaves of the -thicker grasses. The leech is found in the lakes and rivers of the -interior, as well as in Zanzibar and on both coasts of Africa; according -to the Arabs they are of two kinds, large and small. The people neither -take precautions against them when drinking at the streams, as the Somal -do, nor are they aware of any officinal use for the animals; moreover, -it is impossible to persuade a Msawahili to collect them: they are of -P’hepo or fiendish nature, and never fail to haunt and harm their -captor. Jongo, or huge millepedes, some attaining a length of half a -foot, with shiny black bodies and red feet, are found in the fields and -forests, especially during the rains: covered with epizoa, these animals -present a disgusting appearance, and they seem, to judge from their -spoils, to die off during the hot weather. At certain seasons there is a -great variety of the papilionaceous family in the vicinity of waters -where libellulæ or dragon-flies also abound. The country is visited at -irregular times by flights of locusts, here called nzige. In spring the -plants are covered in parts with the p’hánzí, a large pink and green -variety, and the destructive species depicted and described by Salt: -they rise from the earth like a glowing rose-coloured cloud, and die off -about the beginning of the rains. The black leather-like variety, called -by the Arabs “Satan’s ass,” is not uncommon: it is eaten by the -Africans, as are many other edibles upon which strangers look with -disgust. The Arabs describe a fly which infests the forest-patches of -Unyamwezi: it is about the size of a small wasp, and is so fatal that -cattle attacked by it are at once killed and eaten before they become -carrion from its venomous effects. In parts the country is dotted with -ant-hills, which, when old, become hard as sandstone: they are generally -built by the termite under some shady tree, which prevents too rapid -drying, and apparently the people have not learned, like their brethren -in South Africa, to use them as ovens. - -From Tura westward to Unyanyembe, the central district of Unyamwezi, -caravans usually number seven marches, making a total of 60 rectilinear -geographical miles. As far as Kigwa there is but one line of route; from -that point travelling parties diverge far and wide, like ships making -their different courses. - -The races requiring notice in this region are two, the Wakimbu and the -Wanyamwezi. - -The Wakimbu, who are emigrants into Unyamwezi, claim a noble origin, and -derive themselves from the broad lands running south of Unyanyembe as -far westward as K’hokoro. About twenty masika, wet monsoons, or years -ago, according to themselves, in company with their neighbours, the -Wakonongo and the Wamia, they left Nguru, Usanga, and Usenga, in -consequence of the repeated attacks of the Warori, and migrated to -Kipiri, the district lying south of Tura; they have now extended into -Mgunda Mk’hali and Unyanyembe, where they hold the land by permission of -the Wanyamwezi. In these regions there are few obstacles to immigrants. -They visit the Sultan, make a small present, obtain permission to -settle, and name the village after their own chief; but the original -proprietors still maintain their rights to the soil. The Wakimbu build -firmly stockaded villages, tend cattle, and cultivate sorghum and -maize, millet and pulse, cucumbers, and water-melons. Apparently they -are poor, being generally clad in skins. They barter slaves and ivory in -small quantities to the merchants, and some travel to the coast. They -are considered treacherous by their neighbours, and Mapokera, the Sultan -of Tura, is, according to the Arabs, prone to commit “_avanies_.” They -are known by a number of small lines formed by raising the skin with a -needle, and opening it by points literally between the hair of the -temples and the eyebrows. In appearance they are dark and uncomely; -their arms are bows and arrows, spears and knives stuck in the leathern -waistbelt; some wear necklaces of curiously plaited straw, others a -strip of white cowskin bound around the brow--a truly savage and African -decoration. Their language differs from Kinyamwezi. - -The Wanyamwezi tribe, the proprietors of the soil, is the typical race -in this portion of Central Africa: its comparative industry and -commercial activity have secured to it a superiority over the other -kindred races. - -The aspect of the Wanyamwezi is alone sufficient to disprove the -existence of very elevated lands in this part of the African interior. -They are usually of a dark sepia-brown, rarely coloured like diluted -Indian ink, as are the Wahiao and slave races to the south, with negroid -features markedly less Semitic than the people of the eastern coast. The -effluvium from their skins, especially after exercise or excitement, -marks their connection with the negro. The hair curls crisply, but it -grows to the length of four or five inches before it splits; it is -usually twisted into many little ringlets or hanks; it hangs down like a -fringe to the neck, and is combed off the forehead after the manner of -the ancient Egyptians and the modern Hottentots. The beard is thin and -short, there are no whiskers, and the moustachio--when not plucked -out--is scant and straggling. Most of the men and almost all the women -remove the eyelashes, and pilar hair rarely appears to grow. The normal -figure of the race is tall and stout, and the women are remarkable for -the elongation of the mammary organs. Few have small waists, and the -only lean men in the land are the youths, the sick, and the famished. -This race is said to be long-lived, and it is not deficient in bodily -strength and savage courage. The clan-mark is a double line of little -cuts, like the marks of cupping, made by a friend with a knife or razor, -along the temporal fossæ from the external edges of the eyebrows to the -middle of the cheeks or to the lower jaws. Sometimes a third line, or a -band of three small lines, is drawn down the forehead to the bridge of -the nose. The men prefer a black, charcoal being the substance generally -used, the women a blue colour, and the latter sometimes ornament their -faces with little perpendicular scars below the eyes. They do not file -the teeth into a saw-shape as seen amongst the southern races, but they -generally form an inner triangular or wedge-shaped aperture by chipping -away the internal corners of the two front incisors like the Damaras, -and the women extract the lower central teeth. Both sexes enlarge the -lobes of the ears. In many parts of the country skins are more commonly -worn than cloth, except by the Sultans and the wealthier classes. The -women wear the long tobe of the coast, tightly wrapped round either -above or more commonly below the breast; the poorer classes veil the -bosom with a square or softened skin; the remainder of the dress is a -kilt or short petticoat of the same material extending from waist to -knee. Maidens never cover the breast, and children are rarely clothed; -the infant, as usual in East Africa, is carried in a skin fastened by -thongs behind the parent’s back. The favourite ornaments are beads, of -which the red coral, the pink, and the “pigeon-eggs” made at Nuremberg -are preferred. From the neck depend strings of beads with kiwangwa, -disks of shell brought from the coast, and crescents of hippopotamus -teeth country made, and when the beard is long it is strung with red and -particoloured beads. Brass and copper bangles or massive rings are worn -upon the wrists, the forearm bears the ponderous kitindi or coil -bracelet, and the arm above the elbow is sometimes decorated with -circlets of ivory or with a razor in an ivory étui; the middle is girt -with a coil of wire twisted round a rope of hair or fibre, and the -ankles are covered with small iron bells and the rings of thin brass, -copper, or iron wire, called sambo. When travelling, a goat’s horn, used -as a bugle, is secured over the right shoulder by a lanyard and allowed -to hang by the left side: in the house many wear a smaller article of -the same kind, hollowed inside and containing various articles intended -as charms, and consecrated by the Mganga or medicine-man. The arms are -slender assegais with the shoulders of the blade rounded off: they are -delivered, as by the Somal, with the thumb and forefinger after a -preliminary of vibratory motion, but the people want the force and the -dexterity of the Kafirs. Some have large spears for thrusting, and men -rarely leave the hut without their bows and arrows, the latter -unpoisoned, but curiously and cruelly barbed. They make also the long -double-edged knives called sime, and different complications of rungu or -knob-kerries, some of them armed with an iron lance-head upon the wooden -bulge. Dwarf battle-axes are also seen, but not so frequently as -amongst the western races on the Tanganyika Lake. The shield in -Unyamwezi resembles that of Usagara; it is however rarely used. - -There are but few ceremonies amongst the Wanyamwezi. A woman about to -become a mother retires from the hut to the jungle, and after a few -hours returns with a child wrapped in goatskin upon her back, and -probably carrying a load of firewood on her head. The medical treatment -of the Arabs with salt and various astringents for forty days is here -unknown. Twins are not common as amongst the Kafir race, and one of the -two is invariably put to death; the universal custom amongst these -tribes is for the mother to wrap a gourd or calabash in skins, to place -it to sleep with, and to feed it like, the survivor. If the wife die -without issue, the widower claims from her parents the sum paid to them -upon marriage; if she leave a child, the property is preserved for it. -When the father can afford it, a birth is celebrated by copious -libations of pombe. Children are suckled till the end of the second -year. Their only education is in the use of the bow and arrow; after the -fourth summer the boy begins to learn archery with diminutive weapons, -which are gradually increased in strength. Names are given without -ceremony; and as in the countries to the eastward, many of the heathens -have been called after their Arab visitors. Circumcision is not -practised by this people. The children in Unyamwezi generally are the -property not of the uncle but of the father, who can sell or slay them -without blame; in Usukuma or the northern lands, however, succession and -inheritance are claimed by the nephews or sisters’ sons. The Wanyamwezi -have adopted the curious practice of leaving property to their -illegitimate children by slave girls or concubines, to the exclusion of -their issue by wives; they justify it by the fact of the former -requiring their assistance more than the latter, who have friends and -relatives to aid them. As soon as the boy can walk he tends the flocks; -after the age of ten he drives the cattle to pasture, and, considering -himself independent of his father, he plants a tobacco-plot and aspires -to build a hut for himself. There is not a boy “which cannot earn his -own meat.” - -Another peculiarity of the Wanyamwezi is the position of the Wahárá or -unmarried girls. Until puberty they live in the father’s house; after -that period the spinsters of the village, who usually number from seven -to a dozen, assemble together and build for themselves at a distance -from their homes a hut where they can receive their friends without -parental interference. There is but one limit to community in single -life: if the Mhárá or “maiden” be likely to become a mother, her “young -man” must marry her under pain of mulct; and if she die in childbirth, -her father demands from her lover a large fine for having taken away his -daughter’s life. Marriage takes place when the youth can afford to pay -the price for a wife: it varies according to circumstances from one to -ten cows. The wife is so far the property of the husband that he can -claim damages from the adulterer; he may not, however, sell her, except -when in difficulties. The marriage is celebrated with the usual carouse, -and the bridegroom takes up his quarters in his wife’s home, not under -her father’s roof. Polygamy is the rule with the wealthy. There is -little community of interests and apparently a lack of family affection -in these tribes. The husband, when returning from the coast laden with -cloth, will refuse a single shukkah to his wife, and the wife -succeeding to an inheritance will abandon her husband to starvation. The -man takes charge of the cattle, goats, sheep, and poultry; the woman has -power over the grain and the vegetables; and each must grow tobacco, -having little hope of borrowing from the other. Widows left with houses, -cattle, and fields, usually spend their substance in supporting lovers, -who are expected occasionally to make presents in return. Hence no coast -slave in Wanyamwezi is ever known to keep a shukkah of cloth. - -The usual way of disposing of a corpse in former times was, to carry it -out on the head and to throw it into some jungle strip where the fisi or -cynhyæna abounds,--a custom which accounts for the absence of -graveyards. The Wanyamwezi at first objected to the Arabs publicly -burying their dead in their fields, for fear of pollution; they would -assemble in crowds to close the way against a funeral party. The -merchants, however, persevered till they succeeded in establishing a -right. When a Mnyamwezi dies in a strange country, and his comrades take -the trouble to inter him, they turn the face of the corpse towards the -mother’s village, a proceeding which shows more sentiment than might be -expected from them. The body is buried standing, or tightly bound in a -heap, or placed in a sitting position with the arms clasping the knees: -if the deceased be a great man, a sheep and a bullock are slaughtered -for a funeral feast, the skin is placed over his face, and the hide is -bound to his back. When a sultan dies in a foreign land his body is -buried upon the spot, and his head, or what remains of it, is carried -back for sepulture to his own country. The chiefs of Unyamwezi generally -are interred by a large assemblage of their subjects with cruel rites. -A deep pit is sunk, with a kind of vault or recess projecting from it: -in this the corpse, clothed with skin and hide, and holding a bow in the -right hand, is placed sitting, with a pot of pombe, upon a dwarf stool, -whilst sometimes one, but more generally three female slaves, one on -each side and the third in front, are buried alive to preserve their -lord from the horrors of solitude. A copious libation of pombe upon the -heaped-up earth concludes the ceremony. According to the Arabs, the -Wasukuma inter all their sultans in a jungle north of Unyanyembe, and -the neighbouring peasants deposit before seed-time small offerings of -grain at the Mzimo or Fetiss-house which marks the spot. - -The habitations of the eastern Wanyamwezi are the Tembe, which in the -west give way to the circular African hut; among the poorer sub-tribes -the dwelling is a mere stack of straw. The best Tembe have large -projecting eaves supported by uprights: cleanliness, however, can never -be expected in them. Having no limestone, the people ornament the inner -and outer walls with long lines of ovals formed by pressing the finger -tips, after dipping them into ashes and water for whitewash, and into -red clay or black mud for variety of colour. With this primitive -material they sometimes attempt rude imitations of nature--human beings -and serpents. In some parts the cross appears, but the people apparently -ignore it as a symbol. Rude carving is also attempted upon the massive -posts at the entrances of villages, but the figures, though to -appearance idolatrous, are never worshipped. The household furniture of -the Tembe differs little from that described in the villages generally. -The large sloping Kitanda, or bedstead of peeled tree-branch, supported -by forked sticks, and provided with a bedding of mat and cowhide, -occupies the greater part of the outer room. The triangle of clay cones -forming the hearth are generally placed for light near the wall-side -opposite the front door; and the rest of the supellex consists of large -stationary bark cornbins, of gourds and bandboxes slung from the roof, -earthen-pots of black clay, huge ladles, pipes, grass-mats, -grinding-stones, and arms hung to a trimmed and branchy tree trunk -planted upright in a corner. The rooms are divided by party walls, -which, except when separating families, seldom reach to the ceiling. The -fireplace acts as lamp by night, and the door is the only chimney. - -The characteristic of the Mnyamwezi village is the “İwánzá”--a -convenience resulting probably from the instinct of the sexes, who -prefer not to mingle, and for the greater freedom of life and manners. -Of these buildings there are two in every settlement, generally built at -opposite sides, fronting the normal Mrimba-tree, which sheds its filmy -shade over the public court-yard. That of the women, being a species of -harem, was not visited; as travellers and strangers are always admitted -into the male İwánzá, it is more readily described. This public-house is -a large hut, somewhat more substantial than those adjoining, often -smeared with smooth clay, and decorated here and there with broad -columns of the ovals before described, and the prints of palms dipped in -ashes and placed flat like the hands in ancient Egyptian buildings. The -roof is generally a flying thatch raised a foot above the walls--an -excellent plan for ventilation in these regions. Outside, the İwánzá is -defended against the incursions of cattle by roughly-barked trunks of -trees resting upon stout uprights: in this space men sit, converse, and -smoke. The two doorways are protected by rude charms suspended from the -lintel, hares’ tails, zebras’ manes, goats’ horns, and other articles of -prophylactic virtue. Inside, half the depth is appropriated to the -Ubiri, a huge standing bedframe, formed, like the plank-benches of a -civilised guard-room, by sleepers lying upon horizontal cross-bars: -these are supported by forked trunks about two feet long planted firmly -in the ground. The floor is of tamped earth. The furniture of the İwánzá -consists of a hearth and grinding-stone; spears, sticks, arrows, and -shillelaghs are stuck to smoke in the dingy rafter ceiling, or are laid -upon hooks of crooked wood depending from the sooty cross-beams: the -corners are occupied by bellows, elephant-spears, and similar articles. -In this “public” the villagers spend their days, and often, even though -married, their nights, gambling, eating, drinking pombe, smoking bhang -and tobacco, chatting, and sleeping like a litter of puppies destitute -of clothing, and using one another’s backs, breasts, and stomachs as -pillows. The İwánzá appears almost peculiar to Unyamwezi. - -In Unyamwezi the sexes do not eat together: even the boys would disdain -to be seen sitting at meat with their mothers. The men feed either in -their cottages or more generally in the İwánzá: they make, when they -can, two meals during the day--in the morning, a breakfast, which is -often omitted for economy, and a dinner about 3 P.M. During the interim -they chew tobacco, and, that failing, indulge in a quid of clay. It -probably contains some animal matter, but the chief reason for using it -is apparently the necessity to barbarians of whiling away the time when -not sleeping by exercising their jaws. They prefer the “sweet earth,” -that is to say, the clay of ant-hills: the Arabs have tried it without -other effects but nausea. The custom, however, is not uncommon upon both -coasts of Africa: it takes, in fact, the place of the mastic of Chios, -the kat of Yemen, the betel and toasted grains of India and the farther -East, and the ashes of the Somali country. The Wanyamwezi, and indeed -the East-African tribes generally, have some curious food prejudices. -Before their closer intercourse with the Arabs they used to keep -poultry, but, like the Gallas and the Somal, who look upon the fowl as a -kind of vulture, they would not eat it: even in the present day they -avoid eggs. Some will devour animals that have died of disease, and -carrion,--the flesh of lions and leopards, elephants and rhinoceroses, -asses, wild cats and rats, beetles and white ants;--others refuse to -touch mutton or clean water-fowl, declaring that it is not their custom. -The prejudice has not, however, been reduced to a system, as amongst the -tribes of southern Africa. They rarely taste meat except upon the march, -where the prospect of gain excites them to an unusual indulgence: when a -bullock is killed, they either jerk the meat, or dry it upon a dwarf -platform of sticks raised above a slow and smoky fire, after which it -will keep for some days. The usual food is the ugali or porridge of -boiled flour: they find, however, a variety of edible herbs in the -jungle, and during the season they luxuriate upon honey and sour milk. -No Mnyamwezi, however, will own to repletion unless he has “sat upon -pombe,”--in other words, has drunk to intoxication; and the chiefs pride -themselves upon living entirely upon beef and stimulants. - -The Wanyamwezi have won for themselves a reputation by their commercial -industry. Encouraged by the merchants, they are the only professional -porters of East Africa; and even amongst them, the Wakalaganza, -Wasumbwa, and Wasukuma are the only tribes who regularly visit the coast -in this capacity. They are now no longer “honest and civil to -strangers”--semi-civilisation has hitherto tended to degradation. They -seem to have learned but little by their intercourse with the Arabs. -Commerce with them is still in its infancy. They have no idea of credit, -although in Karagwah and the northern kingdoms payment may be delayed -for a period of two years. They cannot, like some of their neighbours, -bargain: a man names the article which he requires, and if it be not -forthcoming he will take no other. The porters, who linger upon the -coast or in the island of Zanzibar, either cut grass for asses, carry -stones and mortar to the town, for which they receive a daily hire of -from two to eight pice, or they obtain from the larger landholders -permission to reclaim and cultivate a plot of ground for vegetables and -manioc. They have little of the literature, songs and tales, common -amongst barbarians; and though they occasionally indulge in speeches, -they do not, like many kindred tribes, cultivate eloquence. On the march -they beguile themselves with chanting for hours together half a dozen -words eternally repeated. Their language is copious but confused, and -they are immoderately fond of simple and meaningless syllables used as -interjections. Their industry is confined to weaving coarse cloths of -unbleached cotton, neatly-woven baskets, wooden milk-bowls, saddle-bags -for their asses, and arms. They rear asses and load them lightly when -travelling to the coast, but they have not yet learned to ride them. -Though they carefully fence and ditch their fields, they have never -invented a plough, confining themselves to ridging the land with the -laborious hoe. They rarely sell one another, nor do they much encourage -the desertion of slaves. The wild bondsman, when running away, is -sometimes appropriated by his captor, but a Muwallid or domestic slave -is always restored after a month or two. The Arabs prefer to purchase -men sold under suspicion of magic; they rarely flee, fearing lest their -countrymen should put them to death. - -As has been said, the government of Unyamwezi is conducted by a -multitude of petty chiefs. The ruling classes are thus called: Mtemi or -Mwáme is the chief or sultan, Mgáwe (in the plural Wágáwe) the principal -councillor, and Mánácháro, or Mnyapara (plural Wányápárá) the elder. The -ryots or subjects on the other hand are collectively styled Wasengi. The -most powerful chiefs are Fundikira of Unyanyembe, Masanga of Msene, and -Kafrira of Kiríra. The dignity of Mtemi is hereditary. He has power of -life and death over his subjects, and he seldom condescends to any but -mortal punishment. His revenue is composed of additions to his private -property by presents from travellers, confiscation of effects in cases -of felony or magic, by the sale of subjects, and by treasure trove. Even -if a man kill his own slave, the slave’s effects lapse to the ruler. The -villagers must give up all ivory found in the jungles, although the -hunters are allowed to retain the tusks of the slaughtered animals. - -A few brief remarks concerning Fundikira, the chief of Unyamwezi in -1858, may serve to illustrate the condition of the ruling class in -Unyamwezi. This chief was travelling towards the coast as a porter in a -caravan, when he heard of his father’s death: he at once stacked his -load and prepared to return home and rule. The rest of the gang, before -allowing him to depart, taunted him severely, exclaiming, partly in -jest, partly in earnest, “Ah! now thou art still our comrade, but -presently thou wilt torture and slay, fine and flog us.” Fundikira -proceeding to his native country inherited, as is the custom, all his -father’s property and widows; he fixed himself at Ititenya, presently -numbered ten wives, who have borne him only three children, built 300 -houses for his slaves and dependants, and owned 2000 head of cattle. He -lived in some state, declining to call upon strangers, and, though not -demanding still obtaining large presents. Becoming obese by age and good -living, he fell ill in the autumn of 1858, and, as usual, his relations -were suspected of compassing his end by Uchawi, or black magic. In these -regions the death of one man causes many. The Mganga was summoned to -apply the usual ordeal. After administering a mystic drug, he broke the -neck of a fowl, and splitting it into two lengths inspected the -interior. If blackness or blemish appear about the wings, it denotes the -treachery of children, relations and kinsmen; the backbone convicts the -mother and grandmother; the tail shows that the criminal is the wife, -the thighs the concubines, and the injured shanks or feet the other -slaves. Having fixed upon the class of the criminals, they are collected -together by the Mganga, who, after similarly dosing a second hen, throws -her up into the air above the heads of the crowd and singles out the -person upon whom she alights. Confession is extorted by tying the thumb -backwards till it touches the wrist or by some equally barbarous mode of -question. The consequence of condemnation is certain and immediate -death; the mode is chosen by the Mganga. Some are speared, others are -beheaded or “ammazati,”--clubbed:--a common way is to bind the cranium -between two stiff pieces of wood which are gradually tightened by cords -till the brain bursts out from the sutures. For women they practise a -peculiarly horrible kind of impalement. These atrocities continue until -the chief recovers or dies: at the commencement of his attack, in one -household eighteen souls, male and female, had been destroyed; should -his illness be protracted, scores will precede him to the grave, for the -Mchawi or magician must surely die. - -The Wanyamwezi will generally sell their criminals and captives; when -want drives, they part with their wives, their children, and even their -parents. For economy, they import their serviles from Ujiji and the -adjoining regions; from the people lying towards the south-east angle of -the Tanganyika Lake, as the Wafipa, the Wapoka, and the Wagara; and from -the Nyanza races, and the northern kingdoms of Karagwah, Uganda, and -Unyoro. - -[Illustration: My Tembe near the Tanganyika.] - - - - -CHAP. XIII. - -AT LENGTH WE SIGHT THE LAKE TANGANYIKA, THE “SEA OF UJIJI.” - - -The route before us lay through a howling wilderness, once populous and -fertile, but now laid waste by the fierce Watuta. Snay bin Amir had -warned me that it would be our greatest trial of patience. The march -began badly: Mpete, the district on the right bank of the Malagarazi -River, is highly malarious, and the mosquitoes feasted right royally -upon our life, even during the day-time. We bivouacked under a shady -tree, within sight of the ferry, not knowing that upon the woody -eminences above the valley there are usually fine kraals of dry grass -and of mkora or myombo-bark. During the rainy monsoon the best -encampments in these regions are made of tree-sheets: two parallel -rings are cut in the bole, at a distance of six to seven feet; a -perpendicular slit then connects them, the bark is easily stripped off, -and the trunk, after having been left for a time to season, is filled -for use. - -On the 5th of February we set out betimes, across a route traversing for -a short distance swampy ground along the river-side. It then stretched -over jungly and wooded hill-spires, with steep rough ascents and -descents, divided from neighbouring elevations by slippery mire-runs. -Exposed to the full break of the rainy monsoon, and the frequent -outbursts of fiery sun, I could not but admire the marvellous fertility -of the soil; an impervious luxuriance of vegetation veils the lowlands, -clothes the hill-sides, and caps their rounded summits. After marching -five hours and twenty minutes, we found a large kraal in the district of -Kinawani: the encamping ground,--partially cleared of the thick, -fetid, and putrescent vegetation around,--hugs the right bank of -the Malagarazi, and faces the village of Sultan Mzogera on the -southern or opposite side. A small store of provisions--grain and -sweet-potatoes--was purchased from the villagers of Kinawani, who -flocked across the stream to trade. They were, however, fanciful in -their requirements: beads, especially the coral porcelain, iron-wire, -salt, and meat. The heaviness of this march caused two of the Hammals -engaged at Usagozi to levant, and the remaining four to strike work. It -was therefore again necessary to mount ass--ten days after an attack of -“paraplegia!” - -We left Kinawani on the next morning, and striking away from the river -we crossed rugged and rolling ground, divided by deep swamps of mire and -grass. To the southward ran the stream, rushing violently down a rocky -bed, with tall trees lining its banks. Sailing before the morning -east-wind, a huge mass of nimbus occupied the sky, and presently -discharged itself in an unusually heavy downfall: during the afternoon -the breeze veered as usual to the west, and the hot sunshine was for -once enjoyable. After a weary trudge of five hours and twenty minutes, -we entered a large and comfortable kraal, situated near a reach where -the swift and turbid river foamed over a discontinuous ledge of rock, -between avenues of dense and tangled jungle. No provisions were -procurable at this place; man appeared to have become extinct. - -The 7th of February led us over broken ground, encumbered by forest, and -cut by swamps, with higher levels on the right hand, till we again fell -into the marshes and fields of the river-valley. The district on the -other side of the river, called Jambeho, is one of the most flourishing -in Uvinza; its villages of small bird-nest huts, and its carefully hoed -fields of grain and sweet-potato, affected the eye, after the dreary -monotony of a jungle-march, like the glimmer of a light at the end of a -night-march, or the discovery of land at the conclusion of a long -sea-voyage. The village ferry was instantly put into requisition, and -the chief, Ruwere, after receiving as his “dash” eight cloths, allowed -us to purchase provisions. At that season, however, the harvest of grain -and sweet-potatoes had not been got in, and for their single old hen the -people demanded an exorbitant price. We hastened, despite all -difficulties, to escape from this place of pestilence, which clouds of -mosquitoes rendered as uncomfortable as it was dangerous. - -The next day ushered in our departure with drizzling rain, which -drenched the slippery paths of red clay; the asses, wild with wind and -weather, exposed us to accidents in a country of deep ravines and rugged -boulders. Presently diverging from the Malagarazi, we passed over the -brow of a low tree-clad hill above the junction of the Rusugi River, and -followed the left bank of this tributary as far as its nearer ford. The -Rusugi which drains the northern highlands into the Malagarazi, was then -about 100 yards in width: the bottom is a red ochreish soil, the strong -stream, divided in the centre by a long low strip of sand and gravel, -flowed at that time breast-deep, and its banks,--as usual with rivers in -these lands,--deeply cut by narrow watercourses, rendered travelling -unusually toilsome. At the Rusugi Ford the road separates into a -northern and a southern branch, a hill-spur forming the line of -demarcation. The northern strikes off to the district of Parugerero on -the left bank, where a shallower ford is found: the place in question is -a settlement of Wavinza, containing from forty to fifty bee-hive huts, -tenanted by salt-diggers. The principal pan is sunk in the vicinity of -the river, the saline produce, after being boiled down in the huts, is -piled up, and handmade into little cones. The pan affords tripartite -revenue to three sultans, and it constitutes the principal wealth of the -Wavinza: the salt here sold for one shukkah per masuta, or half-load, -and far superior to the bitter, nitrous produce of Ugogo, finds its way -throughout the heart of Africa, supplying the lands adjoining both the -Tanganyika and the Nyanza Lakes. - -We followed the southern line which crosses the Rusugi River at the -branch islet. Fords are always picturesque. The men seemed to enjoy the -washing; their numbers protected them from the crocodiles, which fled -from their shouting and splashing; and they even ventured into deep -water, where swimming was necessary. We crossed as usual on a “unicorn” -of negroids, the upper part of the body supported by two men, and the -feet resting upon the shoulders of a third,--a posture somewhat similar -to that affected by gentlemen who find themselves unable to pull off -their own boots. Then remounting, we ascended the grassy rise on the -right of the stream, struggled, slipped, and slided over a muddy swamp, -climbed up a rocky and bushy ridge, and found ourselves ensconced in a -ragged and comfortless kraal upon the western slopes, within sight of -some deserted salt-pans below. As evening drew in, it became apparent -that the Goanese Gaetano, the five Wak’hutu porters, and Sarmalla, a -donkey-driving son of Ramji, had remained behind, in company with -several loads, the tent, two bags of clothes, my companion’s -elephant-gun, my bedding, and that of my servant. It was certain that -with this provision in the vicinity of Parugerero they would not starve, -and the porters positively refused to halt an hour more than necessary. -I found it therefore compulsory to advance. On the 11th February three -“children” of Said bin Salim consented, as usual, for a consideration, -to return and to bring up the laggers, and about a week afterwards they -entered Ujiji without accident. The five Wak’hutu porters, probably from -the persuasions of Muinyi Wazira, had, although sworn to fidelity with -the strongest oaths, carried into execution a long-organised plan of -desertion. Gaetano refused to march on the day of our separation, -because he was feverish, and he expected a riding-ass to be sent back -for him. He brought up our goods safely, but blankets, towels, and many -articles of clothing belonging to his companion, had disappeared. This -difficulty was, of course, attributed to the Wak’hutu porters; probably -the missing things had been sold for food by the Goanese and the son of -Ramji: I could not therefore complain of the excuse. - -From the Msawahili Fundi,--fattore, manciple or steward--of a small -caravan belonging to an Arab merchant, Hamid bin Sulayyam, I purchased -for thirty-five cloths, about thrice its value, a little single-fold -tent of thin American domestics, through which sun and rain penetrated -with equal facility. Like the cloth-houses of the Arab travellers -generally, it was gable-shaped, six or seven feet high, about eight feet -long by four broad, and so light that with its bamboo-poles and its pegs -it scarcely formed a load for a man. On the 9th February, we descended -from the ridge upon which the kraal was placed, and traversed a deep -swamp of black mud, dotted in the more elevated parts with old salt-pans -and pits, where broken pottery and blackened lumps of clay still showed -traces of human handiwork. Beyond this low-land, the track, striking off -from the river-valley and turning to the right, entered toilsome ground. -We crossed deep and rocky ravines, with luxuriant vegetation above, and -with rivulets at the bottom trickling towards the Malagarazi, by -scrambling down and swarming up the roughest steps of rock, boulder, and -knotted tree-root. Beyond these difficulties lay woody and stony hills, -whose steep and slippery inclines were divided by half a dozen waters, -all more or less troublesome to cross. The porters, who were in a place -of famine, insisted upon pushing on to the utmost of their strength: -after six hours’ march, I persuaded them to halt in the bush upon a -rocky hill, where the neighbouring descent supplied water. The Fundi -visited the valley of the Rusugi River, and finding a herd of the Mbogo -or Bos Caffer, brought home a welcome addition to our well-nigh -exhausted rations. - -The 10th February saw us crossing the normal sequence of jungly and -stony “neat’s-tongues,” divided by deep and grassy swamps, which, -stagnant in the dry weather, drain after rains the northern country to -the Malagarazi River. We passed over by a felled tree-trunk an -unfordable rivulet, hemmed in by a dense and fetid thicket; and the -asses summarily pitched down the muddy bank into the water, swam across -and wriggled up the slimy off-side like cats. Thence a foul swamp of -black mire led to the Ruguvu or Luguvu River, the western boundary of -Uvinza and the eastern frontier of Ukaranga. This stream, which can be -forded during the dry season, had spread out after the rains over its -borders of grassy plain; we were delayed till the next morning in a -miserable camping ground, a mud-bank thinly veiled with vegetation, in -order to bridge it with branching trees. An unusual downfall during the -night might have caused serious consequences;--provisions had now -disappeared, moreover the porters considered the place dangerous. - -The 10th February began with the passage of the Ruguvu River, where -again our goods and chattels were fated to be thoroughly sopped. I -obtained a few corn-cobs from a passing caravan of Wanyamwezi, and -charged them with meat and messages for the party left behind. A desert -march, similar to the stage last travelled, led us to the Unguwwe or -Uvungwe River, a shallow, muddy stream, girt in as usual by dense -vegetation; and we found a fine large kraal on its left bank. After a -cold and rainy night, we resumed our march by fording the Unguwwe. Then -came the weary toil of fighting through tiger and spear-grass, with -reeds, rushes, a variety of ferns, before unseen, and other lush and -lusty growths, clothing a succession of rolling hills, monotonous -swellings, where the descent was ever a reflection of the ascent. The -paths were broken, slippery, and pitted with deep holes; along their -sides, where the ground lay exposed to view, a conglomerate of -ferruginous red clay--suggesting a resemblance to the superficies of -Londa, as described by Dr. Livingstone--took the place of the granites -and sandstones of the eastern countries, and the sinking of the land -towards the Lake became palpable. In the jungle were extensive clumps of -bamboo and rattan; the former small, the latter of poor quality; the -bauhinia, or black-wood, and the salsaparilla vine abounded; wild grapes -of diminutive size, and of the austerest flavour, appeared for the first -time upon the sunny hill-sides which Bacchus ever loves, and in the -lower swamps plantains grew almost wild. In parts the surface was broken -into small deep hollows, from which sprang pyramidal masses of the -hugest trees. Though no sign of man here met the eye, scattered fields -and plantations showed that villages must be somewhere near. Sweet water -was found in narrow courses of black mud, which sorely tried the sinews -of laden man and beast. Long after noon, we saw the caravan halted by -fatigue upon a slope beyond a weary swamp: a violent storm was brewing, -and whilst half the sky was purple black with nimbus, the sun shone -stingingly through the clear portion of the empyrean. But these small -troubles were lightly borne; already in the far distance appeared walls -of sky-blue cliff with gilded summits, which were as a beacon to the -distressed mariner. - -On the 13th February we resumed our travel through screens of lofty -grass, which thinned out into a straggling forest. After about an hour’s -march, as we entered a small savannah, I saw the Fundi before alluded to -running forward and changing the direction of the caravan. Without -supposing that he had taken upon himself this responsibility, I followed -him. Presently he breasted a steep and stony hill, sparsely clad with -thorny trees: it was the death of my companion’s riding-ass. Arrived -with toil,--for our fagged beasts now refused to proceed,--we halted for -a few minutes upon the summit. “What is that streak of light which lies -below?” I inquired of Seedy Bombay. “I am of opinion,” quoth Bombay, -“that that is _the_ water.” I gazed in dismay; the remains of my -blindness, the veil of trees, and a broad ray of sunshine illuminating -but one reach of the Lake, had shrunk its fair proportions. Somewhat -prematurely I began to lament my folly in having risked life and lost -health for so poor a prize, to curse Arab exaggeration, and to propose -an immediate return, with the view of exploring the Nyanza, or Northern -Lake. Advancing, however, a few yards, the whole scene suddenly burst -upon my view, filling me with admiration, wonder, and delight. It gave -local habitation to the poet’s fancy:-- - - “Tremolavano i rai del Sol nascente - Sovra l’onde del mar purpuree e d’oro, - E in veste di zaffiro il ciel ridente - Specchiar parea le sue bellezze in loro. - D’Africa i venti fieri e d’Oriente, - Sovra il letto del mar, prendean ristoro, - E co’ sospiri suoi soavi e lieti - Col Zeffiro increspava il lembo a Teti.” - -Nothing, in sooth, could be more picturesque than this first view of the -Tanganyika Lake, as it lay in the lap of the mountains, basking in the -gorgeous tropical sunshine. Below and beyond a short foreground of -rugged and precipitous hill-fold, down which the foot-path zigzags -painfully, a narrow strip of emerald green, never sere and marvellously -fertile, shelves towards a ribbon of glistening yellow sand, here -bordered by sedgy rushes, there cleanly and clearly cut by the breaking -wavelets. Further in front stretch the waters, an expanse of the -lightest and softest blue, in breadth varying from thirty to thirty-five -miles, and sprinkled by the crisp east-wind with tiny crescents of snowy -foam. The background in front is a high and broken wall of -steel-coloured mountain, here flecked and capped with pearly mist, there -standing sharply pencilled against the azure air; its yawning chasms, -marked by a deeper plum-colour, fall towards dwarf hills of mound-like -proportions, which apparently dip their feet in the wave. To the south, -and opposite the long low point, behind which the Malagarazi River -discharges the red loam suspended in its violent stream, lie the bluff -headlands and capes of Uguhha, and, as the eye dilates, it falls upon a -cluster of outlying islets, speckling a sea-horizon. Villages, -cultivated lands, the frequent canoes of the fishermen on the waters, -and on a nearer approach the murmurs of the waves breaking upon the -shore, give a something of variety, of movement, of life to the -landscape, which, like all the fairest prospects in these regions, wants -but a little of the neatness and finish of Art,--mosques and kiosks, -palaces and villas, gardens and orchards--contrasting with the profuse -lavishness and magnificence of nature, and diversifying the unbroken -_coup d’œil_ of excessive vegetation, to rival, if not to excel, the -most admired scenery of the classic regions. The riant shores of this -vast crevasse appeared doubly beautiful to me after the silent and -spectral mangrove-creeks on the East-African seaboard, and the -melancholy, monotonous experience of desert and jungle scenery, tawny -rock and sun-parched plain or rank herbage and flats of black mire. -Truly it was a revel for soul and sight! Forgetting toils, dangers, and -the doubtfulness of return, I felt willing to endure double what I had -endured; and all the party seemed to join with me in joy. My purblind -companion found nothing to grumble at except the “mist and glare before -his eyes.” Said bin Salim looked exulting,--_he_ had procured for me -this pleasure,--the monoculous Jemadar grinned his congratulations, and -even the surly Baloch made civil salams. - -Arrived at Ukaranga I was disappointed to find there a few miserable -grass-huts--used as a temporary shelter by caravans passing to and from -the islets fringing the opposite coast--that clustered round a single -Tembe, then occupied by its proprietor, Hamid bin Sulayyam, an Arab -trader. Presently the motive of the rascally Fundi, in misleading the -caravan, which, by the advice of Snay bin Amir, I had directed to march -upon the Kawele district in Ujiji, leaked out. The roadstead of Ukaranga -is separated from part of Kawele by the line of the Ruche River, which -empties itself into a deep hollow bay, whose chord, extending from N.W. -to S.E., is five or six miles in length. The strip of shelving plain -between the trough-like hills and the lake is raised but a few feet -above water-level. Converted by the passage of a hundred drains from the -highlands, into a sheet of sloppy and slippery mire, breast deep in -select places, it supports with difficulty a few hundred inhabitants: -drenched with violent rain-storms and clammy dews, it is rife in fevers, -and it is feared by travellers on account of its hippopotami and -crocodiles. In the driest season the land-road is barely practicable; -during and after the wet monsoon the lake affords the only means of -passage, and the port of Ukaranga contains not a single native canoe. -The Fundi, therefore, wisely determined that I should spend beads for -rations and lodgings amongst his companions, and be heavily mulcted for -a boat by them. Moreover, he instantly sent word to Mnya Mtaza, the -principal headman of Ukaranga, who, as usual with the Lakist chiefs, -lives in the hills at some distance from the water, to come instanter -for his Honga or blackmail, as, no fresh fish being procurable, the -Wazungu were about to depart. The latter manœuvre, however, was -frustrated by my securing a conveyance for the morrow. It was an open -solid-built Arab craft, capable of containing thirty to thirty-five men; -it belonged to an absent merchant, Said bin Usman; it was in point of -size the second on the Tanganyika, and being too large for paddling, its -crew rowed instead of scooping up the water like the natives. The -slaves, who had named four khete of coral beads as the price of a bit of -sun-dried “baccalà,” and five as the hire of a foul hovel for one night, -demanded four cloths--at least the price of the boat--for conveying the -party to Kawele, a three hours’ trip. I gave them ten cloths and two -coil-bracelets, or somewhat more than the market value of the whole -equipage,--a fact which I effectually used as an _argumentum ad -verecundiam_. - -At eight A.M., on the 14th February, we began coasting along the eastern -shore of the lake in a north-westerly direction, towards the Kawele -district, in the land of Ujiji. The view was exceedingly beautiful: - - “ . . . the flat sea shone like yellow gold - Fused in the sun,” - -and the picturesque and varied forms of the mountains, rising above and -dipping into the lake, were clad in purplish blue, set off by the rosy -tints of morning. Yet, more and more, as we approached our destination, -I wondered at the absence of all those features which prelude a popular -settlement. Passing the low, muddy, and grass-grown mouth of the Ruche -River, I could descry on the banks nothing but a few scattered hovels of -miserable construction, surrounded by fields of sorghum and sugar-cane, -and shaded by dense groves of the dwarf, bright-green plantain, and the -tall, sombre elæis or Guinea-palm. By the Arabs I had been taught to -expect a town, a ghaut, a port, and a bazar, excelling in size that of -Zanzibar, and I had old, preconceived ideas concerning “die Stadt -Ujiji,” whose sire was the “Mombas Mission Map.” Presently Mammoth and -Behemoth shrank timidly from exposure, and a few hollowed logs, the -monoxyles of the fishermen, the wood-cutters, and the market-people, -either cut the water singly, or stood in crowds drawn up on the patches -of yellow sand. About 11 A.M. the craft was poled through a hole in a -thick welting of coarse reedy grass and flaggy aquatic plants to a level -landing-place of flat shingle, where the water shoaled off rapidly. Such -was the ghaut or disembarkation quay of the great Ujiji. - -Around the ghaut a few scattered huts, in the humblest bee-hive shape, -represented the port-town. Advancing some hundred yards through a din of -shouts and screams, tom-toms and trumpets, which defies description, and -mobbed by a swarm of black beings, whose eyes seemed about to start from -their heads with surprise, I passed a relic of Arab civilisation, the -“Bazar.” It is a plot of higher ground, cleared of grass, and flanked -by a crooked tree; there, between 10 A.M. and 3 P.M.--weather -permitting--a mass of standing and squatting negroes buy and sell, -barter and exchange, offer and chaffer with a hubbub heard for miles, -and there a spear or dagger-thrust brings on, by no means unfrequently, -a skirmishing faction-fight. The articles exposed for sale are sometimes -goats, sheep, and poultry, generally fish, vegetables, and a few fruits, -plantains, and melons; palm-wine is a staple commodity, and occasionally -an ivory or a slave is hawked about: those industriously disposed employ -themselves during the intervals of bargaining in spinning a coarse yarn -with the rudest spindle, or in picking the cotton, which is placed in -little baskets on the ground. I was led to a ruinous Tembe, built by an -Arab merchant, Hamid bin Salim, who had allowed it to be tenanted by -ticks and slaves. Situated, however, half a mile from, and backed by, -the little village of Kawele, whose mushroom-huts barely protruded their -summits above the dense vegetation, and placed at a similar distance -from the water in front, it had the double advantage of proximity to -provisions, and of a view which at first was highly enjoyable. The -Tanganyika is ever seen to advantage from its shores: upon its surface -the sight wearies with the unvarying tintage--all shining greens and -hazy blues--whilst continuous parallels of lofty hills, like the sides -of a huge trough, close the prospect and suggest the idea of -confinement. - -And now, lodged with comparative comfort, in the cool Tembe, I will -indulge in a few geographical and ethnological reminiscences of the -country lately traversed. - -The fifth region includes the alluvial valley of the Malagarazi River, -which subtends the lowest spires of the Highlands of Karagwah and -Urundi, the western prolongation of the chain which has obtained, -probably from African tradition, the name of “Lunar Mountains.” In -length, it extends from the Malagarazi Ferry in E. Lat. 31° 10′ to the -Tanganyika Lake, in E. Long. 30° 1′. Its breadth, from S. Lat. 3° 14′, -the supposed northern limit of Urundi, to S. Lat. 5° 2′; the parallel of -Ukaranga is a distance of 108 rectilinear geographical miles. Native -caravans pass from the Malagarazi to Ujiji in eight days, usually -without halting till arrived within a stone’s throw of their -destination. To a region of such various elevations it would be -difficult to assign an average of altitude; the heights observed by -thermometer never exceeded 1850 feet. - -This country contains in due order, from east to west, the lands of -Uvinza, Ubuha, and Ujiji: on the northern edge is Uhha, and on the -south-western extremity Ukaranga. The general features are those of the -alluvial valleys of the Kingani and the Mgeta Rivers. The soil in the -vicinity of the Malagarazi is a rich brown or black loam, rank with -vegetable decay. This strip along the stream varies in breadth from one -to five miles; on the right bank it is mostly desert, but not sterile, -on the left it is an expanse of luxuriant cultivation. The northern -boundary is a jagged line of hill-spurs of primitive formation, rough -with stones and yawning with ravines: in many places the projections -assume the form of green “dogs’ tails,” or “neat’s tongues,” projecting -like lumpy ridges into the card-table-like level of the river-land -southwards. Each mound or spur is crowned with a tufty clump, -principally of bauhinias and mimosas, and often a lone, spreading and -towering tree, a Borassus or a Calabash, ornamenting the extreme point, -forms a landmark for the caravan. The sides of these hills, composed of -hornblende and gneissic rock, quartzite, quartz-grit, and ferruginous -gritstone, are steep, rugged, and thickly wooded, and one slope -generally reflects the other,--if muddy, muddy; and if stony, stony. -Each “hanger,” or wave of ground, is divided from its neighbour by a -soft sedgy valley, bisected by a network of stagnant pools. Here and -there are nullahs, with high stiff earthbanks for the passage of rain -torrents. The grass stands in lofty screens, and the path leads over a -matted mass of laid stalks which cover so closely the thick mud that -loaded asses do not sink; this vegetation is burned down during the hot -season, and a few showers bring up an emerald crop of young blades, -sprouting phœnix-like from the ashes of the dead. The southern boundary -of the valley is more regular; in the eastern parts is an almost tabular -wall of rock, covered even to the crest with shrub and tree. - -As is proved by the regular course of the Malagarazi River, the westward -decline of the country is gentle: along the road, however, the two -marches nearest to the Tanganyika Lake appear to sink more rapidly than -those preceding them. The main drain receives from the northern -hill-spurs a multitude of tributaries, which convey their surplus -moisture into the great central reservoir. - -Under the influence of the two great productive powers in nature--heat -and moisture--the wondrous fertility of the soil, which puts forth where -uncleared a rank jungle of nauseous odour, renders the climate -dangerous. The rains divide the year into two unequal portions of eight -and four months, namely, the wet monsoon, which commences with violence -in September and ends in May, and the dry hot weather which rounds off -the year. The showers fall, as in Zanzibar, uncontinuously, with breaks -varying from a few hours to several days; unlike those of Zanzibar, they -are generally accompanied by violent discharges of electricity. -Lightning from the north, especially at night, is considered a sign of -approaching foul weather. It would be vain to seek in these regions of -Central Africa the kaskazi and kosi, or regular north-east and -south-west monsoons, those local modifications of the trade-winds which -may be traced in regular progress from the centre of Equatorial Africa -to the Himalayas. The atmospheric currents deflected from the Atlantic -Ocean by the coast-radiation and the arid and barren regions of Southern -Africa are changed in hydrometric condition, and are compelled by the -chilly and tree-clad heights of the Tanganyika Lake, and the low, cold, -and river-bearing plains lying to the westward, to part with the -moisture which they have collected in the broad belt of extreme humidity -lying between the Ngami Lake and the equator. When the land has become -super-saturated, the cold, wet, wind, driving cold masses, surcharged -with electricity, sets continually eastward, to restore the equilibrium -in lands still reeking with the torrid blaze, and where the atmosphere -has been rarified by from four to six months of burning suns. At Msene, -in Western Unyamwezi, the rains break about October; thence the wet -monsoon, resuming its eastward course, crosses the Land of the Moon, -and, travelling by slow stages, arrives at the coast in early April. -Following the northing sun, and deflected to the north-east by the -rarified atmosphere from the hot, dry surface of the Eastern Horn of -Africa, the rains reach Western India in June, and exhaust themselves in -frequent and copious downfalls upon the southern versant of the -Himalayas. The gradual refrigeration of the ground, with the southing -of the sun, produces in turn the inverse process, namely, the -north-east monsoon. About the Tanganyika, however, all is variable. The -large body of water in the central reservoir preserves its equability of -temperature, while the alternations of chilly cold and potent heat, in -the high and broken lands around it, cause extreme irregularity in the -direction of the currents. During the rains of 1858 the prevalent winds -were constantly changing: in the mornings there was almost regularly a -cool north breeze drawn by the water from the heights of Urundi; in the -course of the day it varied round towards the south. The most violent -storms came up from the south-east and the south-west, and as often -against as with the gale. The long and rigorous wet monsoon, broken only -by a few scattered days of heat, renders the climate exceedingly damp, -and it is succeeded by a burst of sunshine which dries the grass to -stubble in a few days. Despite these extremes, the climate of Ujiji has -the reputation of being comparatively healthy; it owes this probably to -the refreshing coolness of the nights and mornings. The mukunguru, or -seasoning-fever of this region, is not feared by strangers so much as -that of Unyanyembe, yet no one expects to escape it. It is a low bilious -and aguish type, lasting from three to four days: during the attack -perspiration is induced with difficulty, and it often recurs at regular -times once a month. - -From the Malagarazi Ferry many lines traverse the desert on the right or -northern bank of the river, which is preferred to the southern, whence -the Wavinza exclude travellers. Before entering this region caravans -generally combine, so as to present a formidable front to possible foes. -The trunk road, called Jambeho, the most southerly of the northern -routes, has been described in detail. - -The district of Ukaranga extends from the Ruguvu or the Unguwwe River to -the waters of the lake: on the south it is bounded by the region of -Ut’hongwe, and on the north by the Ruche River. This small and sluggish -stream, when near the mouth, is about forty yards in breadth, and, being -unfordable at all seasons, two or three ferry-boats always ply upon its -waters. The _rauque_ bellow of the hippopotamus is heard on its banks, -and the adjacent lowlands are infested by mosquitoes in clouds. The -villages of Ukaranga are scattered in clumps over the plain--wretched -hamlets, where a few households live surrounded by rare cultivation in -the drier parts of the swamps. The “port of Ukaranga” is an open -roadstead, which seldom shows even a single canoe. Merchants who possess -boats and can send for provisions to the islands across the lake -sometimes prefer, for economy, Ukaranga to Kawele; it is also made a -halting-place by those _en route_ to Uguhha, who would lose time by -visiting Ujiji. The land, however, affords no supplies; a bazar is -unknown; and the apathetic tribe, who cultivate scarcely sufficient -grain for themselves, will not even take the trouble to cast a net. -Ukaranga sends bamboos, rafters for building, and fire-wood, cut in the -background of highlands, to Kawele and other parts of Ujiji, at which -places, however, workmen must be hired. - -Ukaranga signifies, etymologically, the “Land of Groundnuts.” This -little district may, in earlier ages, have given name to the Mocarangas, -Mucarongas, or Mucarangas, a nation which, according to the Portuguese -historians, from João dos Sanctos (1586-97) to Don Sebastian Xavier -Botelho (1835), occupied the country within the Mozambique, from S. -lat. 5° to S. lat. 25°, under subjection to the sovereign and the people -of “Monomotapa.” In the absence of history, analogy is the only guide. -Either, then, the confusion of the Tanganyika and the Nyassa Lakes by -the old geographers, caused them to extend the “Mocarangas” up to the -northern water--and the grammatical error in the word “Mucaranga” -justifies some suspicion as to their accuracy--or in the space of three -centuries the tribe has declined from its former power and consequence, -or the Wakaranga of the Tanganyika are a remnant of the mighty southern -nation, which, like the Watuta tribe, has of late years been pressed by -adverse circumstances to the north. Though Senhor Botelho, in his -‘Memoria Estatisca,’ denominates the “Monomoezi country” “Western -Mucaranga,” it is certain that no Mnyamwezi in the present day owns to -connection with a race speaking a different dialect, and distant about -200 miles from his frontier. - -The land of Ujiji is bounded on the north by the heights of Urundi, and -on the south by the Ukaranga country: eastward it extends to Ubuha, and -westward it is washed by the waves of the Tanganyika Lake. On its -north-east lies the land of Uhha, now reduced by the predatory Watuta to -a luxuriant desert. - -The head-quarter village of Ujiji was in 1858 Kawele. To the westward of -this settlement was the district of Gungu, facing the islet rock Bangwe. -This place was deserted by travellers on account of the plundering -propensities of its former chief. His son “Lurinda,” however, labours to -recover lost ground by courtesy and attention to strangers. -South-eastwards of Kawele is the district of Ugoyye, frequented by the -Arabs, who find the Sultans Habeyya and Marabu somewhat less -extortionate than their neighbours. It is a sandy spot, clear of white -ants, but shut out by villages and cultivation from the lovely view of -the lake. To one standing at Kawele all these districts and villages are -within two or three miles, and a distant glance discloses the -possessions of half-a-dozen independent tribes. - -Caravans entering Ujiji from the land side usually encamp in the -outlying villages on the right or left bank of the Ruche, at -considerable inconvenience, for some days. The origin of this custom -appears to date from olden time. In East Africa, as a rule, every -stranger is held to be hostile before he has proved friendly intentions, -and many tribes do not admit him into their villages without a special -invitation. Thus, even in the present day, the visitor in the countries -of the Somal and Galla, the Wamasai and the Wakwafi, must sit under some -tree outside the settlement till a deputation of elders, after formally -ascertaining his purpose, escort him to their homes. The modern reason -for the custom, which prevails upon the coast, as well as on the banks -of the Tanganyika, is rather commercial than political. The caravan -halts upon neutral ground, and the sultans or chiefs of the different -villages send select messengers carrying various presents: in the -interior ivory and slaves, and in the maritime regions cloth and -provisions, technically called “Magubiko,” and intended as an earnest of -their desire to open trade. Sweet words and fair promises win the day; -the Mtongi, or head of the caravan, after a week of earnest deliberation -with all his followers, chooses his host, temporary lodgings are -provided for the guests, and the value of the retaining fees is -afterwards recovered in Hongá and Kirembá--blackmail and customs. This -custom was known in Southern Africa by the name of “marts;” that is, a -“connection with a person belonging to another nation, so that they -reside at each other’s houses when visiting the place, and make mutual -presents.” The compulsory guest amongst the Arabs of Zanzibar and the -Somal is called “Nezil.” - -At Ujiji terminates, after twelve stages, which native caravans -generally finish in a fortnight, all halts included, the transit of the -fifth region. The traveller has now accomplished a total number of 85 -long, or 100 short stages, which, with necessary rests, but excluding -detentions and long halts, occupy 150 days. The direct longitudinal -distance from the coast is 540 geo. miles, which the sinuosities of the -road prolong to 955, or in round numbers 950 statute miles. The number -of days expended by the Expedition in actual marching was 100, of hours -420, which gives a rate of 2·27 miles per hour. The total time was seven -and a-half months, from the 27th June, 1857, to the 18th February, 1858; -thus the number of the halts exceeded by one-third the number of the -marches. In practice Arab caravans seldom arrive at the Tanganyika, for -reasons before alluded to, under a total period of six months. Those -lightly laden may make Unyanyembe in between two and a-half and three -months, and from Unyanyembe Ujiji in twenty-five stages, which would -reduce their journey to four months. - -Dapper (‘Beschryving van Afrika,’ Amst. 1671) asserts that the “blacks -of Pombo, _i. e._ the Pombeiros, or native travellers of W. Africa, when -asked respecting the distance of the lake, say that it is at least a -sixty days’ journey, going constantly eastwards.” But the total breadth -of the continent between Mbuamaji and Loanda being, in round numbers, -1560 geographical miles, this estimate would give a marching rate of -twenty-six geographical and rectilinear miles (or, allowing for -deviation, thirty-six statute miles) per diem. When Da Couto (1565), -quoting the information procured by Francisco Barreto, during his -expedition in 1570, from some Moors (Arabs or Wasawahili) at Patta and -elsewhere, says that “from Kilwa or Atondo (that is to say, the country -of the Watondwe) the other sea of Angola might be reached with a journey -of fifteen or twenty (150 or 200?) leagues,” he probably alludes to the -Nyassa Lake, lying south-westwards of Kilwa, not to the Tanganyika. Mr. -Cooley gives one itinerary, by Mohammed bin Nasur, an old Arab merchant, -enumerating seventy-one marches from Buromaji (Mbuamaji) to Oha (Uhha), -and a total of eighty-three from the coast to the lake; and a second by -a native of Monomoezi, Lief bin Said (a misprint for Khalaf bin Saíd?) -sixty-two to Ogara (Ugala), which is placed four or five days from Oha. -In another page he remarks that “from Buromaji, near Point Puna, to Oha -in Monomoezi is a journey of seventy-nine, or, in round numbers, eighty -days, the shores of the lake being still six or eight days distant.” -This is the closest estimate yet made. Mr. Macqueen, from the itinerary -of Lief bin Said, estimates the lake, from the mouth of the river -Pangani, at 604 miles, and seventy-one days of total march. It is -evident, from the preceding pages, that African authorities have -hitherto confounded the Nyanza, the Tanganyika, and the Nyassa Lakes. -Still, in the estimate of the distance between the coast and Ujiji there -is a remarkable and a most deceptive coherence. - -Ujiji--also called Manyofo, which appears, however, peculiar to a -certain sultanat or district--is the name of a province, not, as has -been represented, of a single town. It was first visited by the Arabs -about 1840; ten years after that they had penetrated to Unyamwezi; they -found it conveniently situated as a mart upon the Tanganyika Lake, and a -central point where their depôts might be established, and whence their -factors and slaves could navigate the waters, and collect slaves and -ivory from the tribes upon its banks. But the climate proved unhealthy, -the people dangerous, and the coasting-voyages frequently ended in -disaster; Ujiji, therefore, never rose to the rank of Unyanyembe or -Msene. At present it is visited during the fair season, from May to -September, by flying caravans, who return to Unyanyembe as soon as they -have loaded their porters. - -Abundant humidity and a fertile soil, evidenced by the large forest -trees and the abundance of ferns, render Ujiji the most productive -province in this section of Africa: vegetables, which must elsewhere be -cultivated, here seem to flourish almost spontaneously. Rice of -excellent quality was formerly raised by the Arabs upon the shores of -the Tanganyika; it grew luxuriantly, attaining, it is said, the height -of eight or nine feet. The inhabitants, however, preferring sorghum, and -wearied out by the depredations of the monkey, the elephant, and the -hippopotamus, have allowed the more civilised cereal to degenerate. The -principal grains are the holcus and the Indian nagli or nanchni -(Eleusine coracano); there is no bajri (panicum or millet) in these -regions; the pulses are phaseoli and the voandzeia, groundnuts, beans, -and haricots of several different species. The manioc, egg-plant, and -sweet-potato, the yam, the cucumber, an edible white fungus growing -subterraneously, and the Indian variety of the Jerusalem artichoke, -represent the vegetables: the people, however, unlike the Hindus, -despise, and consequently will not be at the pains to cultivate them. -Sugar-cane, tobacco, and cotton are always purchasable in the bazar. The -fruits are the plantain and the Guinea-palm. The mdizi or plantain-tree -is apparently an aborigen of these latitudes: in certain parts, as in -Usumbara, Karagwah, and Uganda, it is the staff of life: in the hilly -countries there are, it is said, about a dozen varieties, and a single -bunch forms a load for a man. It is found in the island and on the coast -of Zanzibar, at K’hutu in the head of the alluvial valley, and, though -rarely, in the mountains of Usagara. The best fruit is that grown by the -Arabs at Unyanyembe: it is still a poor specimen, coarse and insipid, -stringy and full of seeds, and strangers rarely indulge in it, fearing -flatulence. Upon the Tanganyika Lake there is a variety called mikono -t’hembu, or elephant’s-hands, which is considerably larger than the -Indian “horse-plantain.” The skin is of a brickdust red, in places -inclining to rusty-brown; the pulp is a dull yellow, with black seeds, -and the flavour is harsh, strong, and drug-like. The Elæis Guiniensis, -locally called mchikichi, which is known by the Arabs to grow in the -islands of Zanzibar and Pemba, and more rarely in the mountains of -Usagara, springs apparently uncultivated in large dark groves on the -shores of the Tanganyika, where it hugs the margin, rarely growing at -any distance inland. The bright-yellow drupe, with shiny purple-black -point, though nauseous to the taste, is eaten by the people. The mawezi -or palm-oil, of the consistency of honey, rudely extracted, forms an -article of considerable traffic in the regions about the Lake. This is -the celebrated extract, whose various officinal uses in Europe have -already begun to work a social reformation in W. Africa. The people of -Ujiji separate, by pounding, the oily sarcocarpium from the one seed of -the drupe, boil it for some hours, allow the floating substance to -coagulate, and collect it in large earthen pots. The price is usually -about one doti of white cotton for thirty-five pounds, and the people -generally demand salt in exchange for it from caravans. This is the “oil -of a red colour” which, according to Mr. Cooley, is bought by the -Wanyamwezi “from the opposite or south-western side of the lake.” -Despite its sickly flavour, it is universally used in cooking, and it -forms the only unguent and lamp-oil in the country. This fine -Guinea-palm is also tapped, as the date in Western India, for toddy; and -the cheapness of this tembo--the sura of West Africa--accounts for the -prevalence of intoxication, and the consequent demoralisation of the -Lakist tribes. - -The bazar at Ujiji is well supplied. Fresh fish of various kinds is -always procurable except during the violence of the rains: the people, -however, invariably cut it up and clean it out before bringing it to -market. Good honey abounds after the wet monsoon. By the favour of the -chief, milk and butter may be purchased every day. Long-tailed sheep and -well-bred goats, poultry and eggs--the two latter are never eaten by the -people--are brought in from the adjoining countries: the Arabs breed a -few Manilla ducks, and the people rear but will not sell pigeons. The -few herds at Ujiji which have escaped the beef-eating propensities of -the Watuta are a fine breed, originally, it is said, derived by the -Wahha from the mountains of Karagwah. Their horns in these lands appear -unusually large; their stature combines with the smallness of the hump -to render them rather like English than Indian or African cattle. They -are rarely sold of later days, except for enormous prices, an adult -slave being the lowest valuation of a cow. The cattle is never stalled -or grain-fed, and the udder is little distended; the produce is about -one quarter that of a civilised cow, and the animals give milk only -during the few first months after calving. The “tulchan” of Tibet is -apparently unknown in Central Africa; but the people are not wanting in -barbarous contrivances to persuade a stubborn animal to yield her -produce. - -The fauna appear rare upon the borders of the Tanganyika: all men are -hunters; every human being loves animal food, from white ants to -elephants; the tzetze was found there, and probably the luxuriance of -the vegetation, in conjunction with the extreme humidity, tends to -diminish species and individuals. Herds of elephants exist in the -bamboo-jungles which surround the sea, but the heaps of ivory sold in -the markets of Ujiji are collected from an area containing thousands of -square miles. Hippopotami and crocodiles are common in the waters, wild -buffaloes in the plains. The hyænas are bold thieves, and the half-wild -“Pariah-dogs” that slink about the villages are little inferior as -depredators. The people sometimes make pets of them, leading them about -with cords; but they do not object to see them shot after a raid upon -the Arab’s meat, butter, or milk. These animals are rarely heard to -bark; they leave noise to the village cocks. The huts are as usual -haunted by the grey and the musk-rat. Of birds there is a fine -fish-eagle, about the size of a domestic cock, with snowy head and -shoulders relieving a sombre chocolate plume: he sits majestically -watching his prey upon the tall trees overhanging the waves of the -Tanganyika. A larus, or sea-gull, with reddish legs, lives in small -colonies upon this lake. At the end of the monsoon in 1858 these birds -were seen to collect in troops upon the sands, as they are accustomed -to do at Aden when preparing to migrate. The common kingfisher is a -large bird with a white and grey plume, a large and strong black bill, -and a crest which somewhat resembles that of the Indian bulbul: it -perches upon the branches over the waters, and in flight and habits -resembles other halcyons. A long and lank black plotus, or diver, is -often seen skimming the waters, and sandpipers run along the yellow -sands. The other birds are the white-breasted “parson-crow,” partridges, -and quails seen in Urundi; swallows in passage, curlews, motacillæ, -muscicapæ, and various passerines. Ranæ, some of them noisy in the -extreme, inhabit the sedges close to the lake. The termite does great -damage in the sweet red soils about Kawele: it is less feared when the -ground is dry and sandy. The huts are full of animal life--snakes, -scorpions, ants of various kinds, whose armies sometimes turn the -occupants out of doors; the rafters are hollowed out by xylophagous -insects; the walls are riddled by mason-bees, hideous spiders veil the -corners with thick webs, the chirp of the cricket is heard both within -and out of doors, cockroaches destroy the provisions, and large brown -mosquitoes and flies, ticks and bugs, assault the inhabitants. - -The rise in the price of slaves and ivory has compelled Arab merchants, -as will be seen in another chapter, to push their explorations beyond -the Tanganyika Lake. Ujiji is, however, still the great slave-mart of -these regions, the article being collected from all the adjoining tribes -of Urundi, Uhha, Uvira, and Marungu. The native dealers, however, are so -acute, that they are rapidly ruining this their most lucrative traffic. -They sell cheaply, and think to remunerate themselves by aiding and -abetting desertion. Merchants, therefore, who do not chain or cord -together their gangs till they have reached the east bank of the -Malagarazi River, often lose 20 per cent. The prevalence of the practice -has already given Ujiji a bad name, and, if continued, will remove the -market to another place, where the people are somewhat less clever and -more sensible. It is impossible to give any idea of the average price of -the human commodity, which varies, under the modifications of demand and -supply, from two to ten doti or tobes of American domestics. Yet as -these purchases sell in Zanzibar for fourteen or fifteen dollars per -head, the trade realises nearly 500 per cent., and will, therefore, with -difficulty be put down. - -The principal tribes in this region are the Wajiji, the Wavinza, the -Wakaranga, the Watuta, the Wabuha, and the Wahha. - -The Wajiji are a burly race of barbarians, far stronger than the tribes -hitherto traversed, with dark skins, plain features, and straight, -sturdy limbs: they are larger and heavier men than the Wanyamwezi, and -the type, as it approaches Central Africa, becomes rather negro than -negroid.[1] Their feet and hands are large and flat, their voices are -harsh and strident, and their looks as well as their manners are -independent even to insolence. The women, who are held in high repute, -resemble, and often excel, their masters in rudeness and violence; they -think little in their cups of entering a stranger’s hut, and of -snatching up and carrying away an article which excites their -admiration. Many of both sexes, and all ages, are disfigured by the -small-pox--the Arabs have vainly taught them inoculation--and there are -few who are not afflicted by boils and various eruptions; there is also -an inveterate pandemic itch, which, according to their Arab visitors, -results from a diet of putrid fish. - - [1] My companion observes (in Blackwood, Nov. 1859), “It may be worthy - of remark that I have always found the lighter coloured savages more - boisterous and warlike than those of the dingier hue. The _ruddy - black_, fleshy-looking Wazaramos and Wagogos are much _lighter_ in - colour (!) than any of the other tribes, and certainly have a far - superior, more manly and warlike independent spirit and bearing than - any of the others.” The “dingiest” peoples are usually the most - degraded, and therefore sometimes the least powerful; but the fiercest - races in the land are the Wazaramo, the Wajiji and the Wataturu, who - are at the same time the darkest. - -This tribe is extensively tattooed, probably as a protection against the -humid atmosphere, and the chills of the Lake Region. Some of the chiefs -have ghastly scars raised by fire, in addition to large patterns marked -upon their persons--lines, circles, and rays of little cupping-cuts -drawn down the back, the stomach, and the arms, like the tattoo of the -Wangindo tribe near Kilwa. Both sexes love to appear dripping with oil; -and they manifestly do not hold cleanliness to be a virtue. The head is -sometimes shaved; rarely the hair is allowed to grow; the most -fashionable coiffure is a mixture of the two; patches and beauty-spots -in the most eccentric shapes--buttons, crescents, crests, and galeated -lines--being allowed to sprout either on the front, the sides, or the -back of the head, from a carefully-scraped scalp. Women as well as men -are fond of binding a wisp of white tree-fibre round their heads, like -the ribbon which confines the European old person’s wig. There is not a -trace of mustachio or whisker in the country; they are removed by the -tweezers, and the climate, according to the Arabs, is, like that of -Unyamwezi, unfavourable to beards. For cosmetics both sexes apply, when -they can procure such luxuries, red earth to the face, and over the head -a thick-coating of chalk or mountain-meal, which makes their blackness -stand out hideously grotesque. - -The chiefs wear expensive stuffs, checks, and cottons, which they -extract from passing caravans. Women of wealth affect the tobe or -coast-dress, and some were seen wearing red and blue broadcloths. The -male costume of the lower orders is confined to softened goat, sheep, -deer, leopard, or monkey skins, tied at two corners over either -shoulder, with the flaps open at one side, and with tail and legs -dangling in the wind. Women who cannot afford cloth use as a succedaneum -a narrow kilt of fibre or skin, and some content themselves with a -tassel of fibre or a leafy twig depending from a string bound round the -waist, and displaying the nearest approach to the original fig-leaf. At -Ujiji, however, the people are observed, for the first time, to make -extensive use of the macerated tree-bark, which supplies the place of -cotton in Urundi, Karagwah, and the northern kingdoms. This article, -technically termed “mbugu,” is made from the inner bark of various -trees, especially the mrimba and the mwale, or huge Raphia-palm. The -trunk of the full-grown tree is stripped of its integument twice or -thrice, and is bound with plantain-leaves till a finer growth is judged -fit for manipulation. This bark is carefully removed, steeped in water, -macerated, kneaded, and pounded with clubs and battens to the -consistency of a coarse cotton. Palm-oil is then spirted upon it from -the mouth, and it acquires the colour of chamois-leather. The Wajiji -obtain the mbugu mostly from Urundi and Uvira. They are fond of striping -it with a black vegetable mud, so as to resemble the spoils of leopards -and wild cats, and they favour the delusion by cutting the edge into -long strips, like the tails and other extremities of wild beasts. The -price of the mbugu varies according to size, from six to twelve khete or -strings of beads. Though durable, it is never washed: after many -months’ wear the superabundance of dirt is removed by butter or ghee. - -Besides the common brass-wire girdles and bracelets, armlets and -anklets, masses of white-porcelain, blue-glass, and large pigeon-egg -beads, and hundreds of the iron-wire circlets called sambo, which, worn -with ponderous brass or copper rings round the lower leg, above the -foot, suggest at a distance the idea of disease, the Wajiji are -distinguished from tribes not on the lake by necklaces of shells--small -pink bivalves strung upon a stout fibre. They have learned to make brass -from the Arabs, by melting down one-third of zinc imported from the -coast with two parts of the fine soft and red copper brought from the -country of the Kazeembe. Like their Lakist neighbours, they ornament the -throat with disks, crescents, and strings of six or seven cones, -fastened by the apex, and depending to the breast. Made of the whitest -ivory or of the teeth, not the tusks, of the hippopotamus, these -dazzling ornaments effectively set off the dark and negro-like skin. -Another peculiarity amongst these people is a pair of iron pincers or a -piece of split wood ever hanging round the neck; nor is its use less -remarkable than its presence. The Lakists rarely chew, smoke, or take -snuff according to the fashion of the rest of mankind. Every man carries -a little half-gourd or diminutive pot of black earthenware, nearly full -of tobacco; when inclined to indulge, he fills it with water, expresses -the juice, and from the palm of his hand sniffs it up into his nostrils. -The pincers serve to close the exit, otherwise the nose must be -temporarily corked by the application of finger and thumb. Without much -practice it is difficult to articulate during the retention of the dose, -which lasts a few minutes, and when an attempt is made the words are -scarcely intelligible. The arms of the Wajiji are small battle-axes and -daggers, spears, and large bows, which carry unusually heavy arrows. -They fear the gun and the sabre, yet they show no unwillingness to -fight. The Arabs avoid granting their demands for muskets and gunpowder, -consequently a great chief never possesses more than two or three -fire-locks. - -The Lakists are an almost amphibious race, excellent divers, strong -swimmers and fishermen, and vigorous ichthyophagists all. At times, when -excited by the morning coolness and by the prospect of a good haul, they -indulge in a manner of merriment which resembles the gambols of sportive -water-fowls: standing upright and balancing themselves in their hollow -logs, which appear but little larger than themselves, they strike the -water furiously with their paddles, skimming over the surface, dashing -to and fro, splashing one another, urging forward, backing, and wheeling -their craft, now capsizing, then regaining their position with wonderful -dexterity. They make coarse hooks, and have many varieties of nets and -creels. Conspicuous on the waters and in the villages is the Dewa, or -“otter” of Oman, a triangle of stout reeds, which shows the position of -the net. A stronger kind, and used for the larger ground-fish, is a cage -of open basket-work, provided, like the former, with a bait and two -entrances. The fish once entangled cannot escape, and a log of wood, -used as a trimmer, attached to a float-rope of rushy plants, directs the -fisherman. The heaviest animals are caught by a rope-net--the likh of -Oman--weighted and thrown out between two boats. They have circular lath -frames, meshed in with a knot somewhat different from that generally -used in Europe; the smaller variety is thrown from the boat by a single -man, who follows it into the water,--the larger, which reaches six feet -in diameter, is lowered from the bow by cords, and collects the fish -attracted by the glaring torch-fire. The Wajiji also make large and -small drag-nets, some let down in a circle by one or more canoes, the -others managed by two fishermen, who, swimming at each end, draw them in -when ready. They have little purse-nets to catch small fry, hoops thrust -into a long stick-handle through the reed walls that line the shore; and -by this simple contrivance the fish are caught in considerable -quantities. The wigo or crates alluded to as peculiar in the ‘Periplus,’ -and still common upon the Zanzibar coast, are found at the Tanganyika. -The common creel resembles the khún of Western India, and is well-known -even to the Bushmen of the South: it is a cone of open bamboo-strips or -supple twigs, placed lengthways, and bound in and out by strings of -grass or tree-fibre. It is closed at the top, and at the bottom there is -a narrow aperture, with a diagonally-disposed entrance like that of a -wire rat-trap, which prevents the fish escaping. It is placed upon its -side with a bait, embanked with mud, reeds, or sand, and seems to answer -the purpose for which it is intended. In Uzaramo and near the coast the -people narcotise fish with the juice of certain plants, asclepias and -euphorbias: about the Tanganyika the art appears unknown. - -There are many varieties of fish in the waters of this Lake. The Mvoro -is a long and bony variety, in shape like a large mackerel; the Sangále -resembles it, but the head and body are thicker. The Mgege, which -suggests the Pomfret of Western India, is well flavoured, but full of -bones. The Mguhe is said to attain the length of five or six feet: it is -not unlike the kheri of the Indian rivers, and to a European palate it -is the best fish that swims in these waters. The largest is the Singá, a -scaleless variety, with black back, silvery belly, small fins, and long -fleshy cirri: it crawls along the bottom, and is unfit for leaping or -for rapid progress. This sluggish and misshapen ground-fish is much -prized by the people on account of its rich and luscious fat. Like the -Pallu of Sindh, it soon palls upon the European palate. Want of flavour -is the general complaint made by the Arabs and coast people against the -produce of the Tanganyika: they attempt to diminish the wateriness of -the fish by exposing it spitted to a slow fire, and by subsequently -stowing it for the night in well-closed earthen pots. Besides the five -varieties above alluded to, there are dwarf eels of good flavour, -resembling the Indian Bam; Dagá’a, small fish called by the Arabs -Kashu’a, minnows of many varieties, which, simply sundried, or muriated -if salt can be afforded, find their way far east; a dwarf shrimp, about -one quarter the size of the common English species; and a large bivalve -called Sinani, and identified as belonging to the genus Iridina. The -meat is fat and yellow, like that of a well-fed oyster, but it is so -insipid that none but a Mjiji can eat it. The shells collected upon the -shores of the Tanganyika and on the land journey have been described by -Mr. Samuel P. Woodward, who courteously named the species after the -European members of the Expedition. To his memoir--quoted in pages 102, -103 of this volume--the reader is referred. - -The Wajiji are considered by the Arabs to be the most troublesome race -in these black regions. They are taught, by the example of their chiefs, -to be rude, insolent, and extortionate; they demand beads even for -pointing out the road; they will deride and imitate a stranger’s speech -and manner before his face; they can do nothing without a long -preliminary of the fiercest scolding; they are as ready with a blow as -with a word; and they may often be seen playing at “rough and tumble,” -fighting, pushing, and tearing hair, in their boats. A Mjiji uses his -dagger or his spear upon a guest with little hesitation; he thinks -twice, however, before drawing blood, if it will cause a feud. Their -roughness of manner is dashed with a curious ceremoniousness. When the -sultan appears amongst his people, he stands in a circle and claps his -hands, to which all respond in the same way. Women curtsy to one -another, bending the right knee almost to the ground. When two men meet -they clasp each other’s arms with both hands, rubbing them up and down, -and ejaculating for some minutes, “Nama sanga? nama sanga?--art thou -well?” They then pass the hands down to the forearm, exclaiming “Wákhe? -wákhe?--how art thou?” and finally they clap palms at each other, a -token of respect which appears common to these tribes of Central Africa. -The children have all the frowning and unprepossessing look of their -parents; they reject little civilities, and seem to spend life in -disputes, biting and clawing like wild cats. There appears to be little -family affection in this undemonstrative race. The only endearment -between father and son is a habit of scratching and picking each other, -caused probably by the prevalence of a complaint before alluded to; as -amongst the Simiads, the intervals between pugnacity are always spent in -exercising the nails. Sometimes, also, at sea, when danger is near, the -Mjiji breaks the mournful silence of his fellows, who are all thinking -of home, with the exclamation, “Yá mgúri wánje!--O my wife!” They are -never sober when they can be drunk; perhaps in no part of the world -will the traveller more often see men and women staggering about the -village with thick speech and violent gestures. The favourite inebrient -is tembo or palm-toddy; almost every one, however, even when on board -the canoe, smokes bhang, and the whooping and screaming which follow the -indulgence resemble the noise of wild beasts rather than the sounds of -human beings. Their food consists principally of holcus, manioc, and -fish, which is rarely eaten before it becomes offensive to European -organs. - -The great Mwami or Sultan of Ujiji in 1858-59 was Rusimba. Under him -were several mutware (mutwale) or minor chiefs, one to each settlement, -as Kannena in Kawele and Lurinda in Gungu. On the arrival of a caravan, -Rusimba forwards, through his relations, a tusk or two of ivory, thus -mutely intimating that he requires his blackmail, which he prefers to -receive in beads and kitindi or coil-bracelets, proportioning, however, -his demand to the trader’s means. When this point has been settled, the -mutware sends his present, and expects a proportionate return. He is, -moreover, entitled to a fee for every canoe hired; on each slave the -kiremba or excise is about half the price; from one to two cloths are -demanded upon every tusk of ivory; and he will snatch a few beads from a -man purchasing provisions for his master. The minor headmen are fond of -making “sare” or brotherhood with strangers, in order to secure them in -case of return. They depend for influence over their unruly subjects -wholly upon personal qualifications, bodily strength, and violence of -temper. A chief, though originally a slave, may “win golden opinions” by -his conduct when in liquor: he assumes the most ferocious aspect, draws -his dagger, brandishes his spear, and, with loud screams, rushes at his -subjects as intent upon annihilating them. The affairs of the nation -are settled by the mwami, the chief, in a general council of the lieges, -the wateko (in the singular mteko) or elders presiding. Their -intellects, never of the brightest, are invariably fuddled with toddy, -and, after bawling for hours together and coming apparently to the most -satisfactory conclusion, the word of a boy or of an old woman will -necessitate another lengthy palaver. The sultans, like their subjects, -brook no delay in their own affairs; they impatiently dun a stranger -half-a-dozen times a day for a few beads, while they patiently keep him -waiting for weeks on occasions to him of the highest importance, whilst -they are drinking pombe or taking leave of their wives. Besides the -magubiko or preliminary presents, the chiefs are bound, before the -departure of a caravan which has given them satisfaction, to supply it -with half-a-dozen masuta or matted packages of grain, and to present the -leader with a slave, who generally manages to abscond. The parting gifts -are technically called “urangozi,” or guidance. - -Under the influence of slavery the Wajiji have made no progress in the -art of commerce. They know nothing of bargaining or of credit: they will -not barter unless the particular medium upon which they have set their -hearts is forthcoming; and they fix a price according to their wants, -not to the value of the article. The market varies with the number of -caravans present at the depôt, the season, the extent of supply, and a -variety of similar considerations. Besides the trade in ivory, slaves, -bark, cloth, and palm-oil, they manufacture and hawk about iron sickles -shaped like the European, kengere, kiugi, or small bells, and sambo, -locally called tambi, or wire circlets, worn as ornaments round the -ankles; long double-edged knives in wooden sheaths, neatly whipped with -strips of rattan; and jembe or hoes. Of bells a dozen were purchased in -March and April of 1858 for two fundo of white beads. Jembe and large -sime averaged also two fundo. Of good sambo 100, and of the inferior -quality 200, were procurable for a fundo. The iron is imported in a -rough state from Uvira. The value of a goat was one shukkah, which here -represents, as in Unyamwezi, twelve feet, or double the length of the -shukkah in other regions, the single cloth being called lupande, or -upande. Sheep, all of a very inferior quality, cost somewhat more than -goats. A hen, or from five to six eggs, fetched one khete of samesame, -or red-coral beads, which are here worth three times the quantity of -white porcelain. Large fish, or those above two pounds in weight, were -sold for three khete; the small fry--the white bait of this region--one -khete per two pounds; and diminutive shrimps one khete per three pounds. -Of plantains, a small bunch of fifteen, and of sweet potatoes and yams -from ten to fifteen roots, were purchased for a khete; of artichokes, -egg-plants, and cucumbers, from fifty to one hundred. The wild -vegetables generically called mboga are the cheapest of these esculents. -Beans, phaseoli, ground-nuts, and the voandzeia, were expensive, -averaging about two pounds per khete. Rice is not generally grown in -Ujiji; a few measures of fine white grain were purchased at a fancy -price from one Sayfu bin Hasani, a pauper Msawahili, from the isle of -Chole, settled in the country. The sugar-cane is poor and watery, it was -sold in lengths of four or five feet for the khete: one cloth and two -khete purchased three pounds of fine white honey. Tobacco was -comparatively expensive. Of the former a shukkah procured a bag weighing -perhaps ten pounds. Milk was sold at arbitrary prices, averaging about -three teacups for the khete. A shukkah would procure three pounds of -butter, and ghee was not made for the market. It was impossible to find -sweet toddy, as the people never smoke nor clean the pots into which it -is drawn; of the acid and highly intoxicating drink used by the Wajiji, -from five to six teacups were to be bought with a khete. Firewood, being -imported, was expensive, a khete being the price of a little faggot -containing from fifty to one hundred sticks. About one pound of unclean -cotton was to be purchased for three khete of samesame. It must be -observed, that this list of prices, which represents the market at -Kawele, gives a high average, many of the articles being brought in -canoes from considerable distances, and even from the opposite coast. - -The traveller in the Lake Regions loses by cloth; the people, contented -with softened skins and tree-bark, prefer beads, ornaments, and more -durable articles: on the other hand, he gains upon salt, which is -purchased at half-price at the Parugerero Pan, and upon large wires -brought from the coast. Beads are a necessary evil to those engaged in -purchasing ivory and slaves. In 1858 the Wajiji rejected with contempt -the black porcelains, called ububu. At first they would not receive the -khanyera, or white-porcelains; and afterwards, when the Expedition had -exchanged, at a considerable loss, their large stock for langiyo, or -small blues, they demanded the former. The bead most in fashion was the -mzizima, or large blue-glass, three khete of which were equivalent to a -small cloth; the samesame, or red-corals, required to be exchanged for -mzizima, of which one khete was an equivalent to three of samesame. The -maguru nzige, or pink porcelains, were at par. The tobacco-stem bead, -called sofi, and current at Msene, was in demand. The reader will -excuse the prolixity of these wearisome details, they are necessary -parts of a picture of manners and customs in Central Africa. Moreover, a -foreknowledge of the requirements of the people is a vital condition of -successful exploration. There is nothing to arrest the traveller’s -progress in this section of the African interior except the failure of -his stores. - -A serious inconvenience awaits the inexperienced, who find a long halt -at, and a return from, Ujiji necessary. The Wanyamwezi pagazi, or -porters, hired at Unyanyembe, bring with them the cloth and beads which -they have received as hire for going to and coming from the lake, and -lose no time in bartering the outfit for ivory or slaves. Those who -prefer the former article will delay for some time with extreme -impatience and daily complaints, fearing to cross Uvinza in small bodies -when loaded with valuables. The purchasers of slaves, however, knowing -that they will inevitably lose them after a few days at Ujiji, desert at -once. In all cases, the report that a caravan is marching eastwards -causes a general disappearance of the porters. As the Wajiji will not -carry, the caravan is reduced to a halt, which may be protracted for -months, in fact, till another body of men coming from the east will -engage themselves as return porters. Moreover, the departure homewards -almost always partakes of the nature of a flight, so fearful are the -strangers lest their slaves should seize the opportunity to desert. The -Omani Arabs obviate these inconveniences by always travelling with large -bodies of domestics, whose interest it is not to abandon the master. - -South of the Wajiji lie the Wakaranga, a people previously described as -almost identical in development and condition, but somewhat inferior in -energy and civilisation. Little need be said of the Wavinza, who appear -to unite the bad qualities of both the Wanyamwezi and the Ujiji. They -are a dark, meagre, and ill-looking tribe; poorly clad in skin aprons -and kilts. They keep off insects by inserting the chauri, or fly-flap, -into the waistband of their kilts: and at a distance they present, like -the Hottentots, the appearance of a race with tails. Their arms are -spears, bows, and arrows; and they use, unlike their neighbours, -wicker-work shields six feet long by two in breadth. Their chiefs are of -the Watosi race, hence every stranger who meets with their approbation -is called, in compliment, Mtosi. They will admit strangers into their -villages, dirty clumps of beehive huts; but they refuse to provide them -with lodging. Merchants with valuable outfits prefer the jungle, and -wait patiently for provisions brought in baskets from the settlements. -The Wavinza seldom muster courage to attack a caravan, but stragglers -are in imminent danger of being cut off by them. Their country is rich -in cattle and poultry, grain and vegetables. Bhang grows everywhere near -the settlements, and they indulge themselves in it immoderately. - -The Watuta--a word of fear in these regions--are a tribe of robbers -originally settled upon the southern extremity of the Tanganyika Lake. -After plundering the lands of Marungu and Ufipa, where they almost -annihilated the cattle, the Watuta, rounding the eastern side of the -Lake, migrated northwards. Some years ago they were called in by Ironga, -the late Sultan of U’ungu, to assist him against Mui’ Gumbi, the -powerful chief of the Warori. The latter were defeated, after obstinate -fighting for many months. After conquering the Warori, the Watuta -settled in Sultan Ironga’s lands, rather by might than right, and they -were expelled by his son with the greatest difficulty. From U’ungu their -next step was to the southern bank of the Malagarazi River. About three -years ago this restless tribe was summoned by Mzogera, the present -Sultan of Uvinza, to assist him in seizing Uhha, which had just lost -T’háre, its chief. The Watuta crossed the Malagarazi, laid waste the -lands of Uhha and Ubuha, and desolated the northern region between the -river and the lake. Shortly afterwards they attacked Msene, and were -only repulsed by the matchlocks of the Arabs, after a week of hard -skirmishing. In the early part of 1858 they slew Ruhembe, the Sultan of -Usui, a district north of Unyanyembe, upon the road to Karagwah. In the -latter half of the same year they marched upon Ujiji, plundered Gungu, -and proceeded to attack Kawele. The Arab merchants, however, who were -then absent on a commercial visit to Uviva, returned precipitately to -defend their depôts, and with large bodies of slave musketeers beat off -the invader. The lands of the Watuta are now bounded on the north by -Utumbara, on the south by Msene; eastwards by the meridian of -Wilyankuru, and westwards by the highlands of Urundi. - -The Watuta, according to the Arabs, are a pastoral tribe, despising, -like the Wamasai and the Somal, such luxuries as houses and fields; they -wander from place to place, camping under trees, over which they throw -their mats, and driving their herds and plundered cattle to the most -fertile pasture-grounds. The dress is sometimes a mbugu or bark-cloth; -more generally it is confined to the humblest tribute paid to decency by -the Kafirs of the Cape, and they have a similar objection to removing -it. On their forays they move in large bodies, women as well as men, -with the children and baggage placed upon bullocks, and their wealth in -brass wire twisted round the horns. Their wives carry their weapons, and -join, it is said, in the fight. The arms are two short spears, one in -the right hand, the other in the left, concealed by a large shield, so -that they can thrust upwards unawares: disdaining bows and arrows, they -show their superior bravery by fighting at close quarters, and they -never use the spear as an assegai. In describing their tactics, the -Arabs call them “manœuvrers like the Franks.” Their thousands march in -four or five extended lines, and attack by attempting to envelop the -enemy. There is no shouting nor war-cry to distract the attention of the -combatants: iron whistles are used for the necessary signals. During the -battle the sultan, or chief, whose ensign is a brass stool, sits -attended by his forty or fifty elders in the rear; his authority is -little more than nominal, the tribe priding itself upon autonomy. The -Watuta rarely run away, and take no thought of their killed and wounded. -They do not, like the ancient Jews, and the Gallas and Abyssinians of -the present day, carry off a relic of the slain foe; in fact, the custom -seems to be ignored south of the equator. The Watuta have still however -a wholesome fear of fire-arms, and the red flag of a caravan causes them -to decamp without delay. According to the Arabs they are not -inhospitable, and though rough in manner they have always received -guests with honour. A fanciful trait is related concerning them: their -first question to a stranger will be, “Didst thou see me from -afar?”--which, being interpreted, means, Did you hear of my greatness -before coming here?--and they hold an answer in the negative to be a -casus belli. - -Remain for consideration the people of Ubuha and Uhha. The Wabuha is a -small and insignificant tribe bounded on the north by Uhha, and on the -south by the Malagarazi River: the total breadth is about three marches; -the length, from the Rusugi stream of the Wavinza to the frontiers of -Ujiji and Ukaranga, is in all a distance of four days. Their principal -settlement is Uyonwa, the district of Sultan Mariki: it is a mere -clearing in the jungle, with a few pauper huts dotting fields of sweet -potatoes. This harmless and oppressed people will sell provisions, but -though poor they are particular upon the subject of beads, preferring -coral and blue to the exclusion of black and white. They are a dark, -curly-headed, and hard-favoured race: they wear the shushah or top-knot -on the poll, dress in skins and tree-barks, ornament themselves with -brass and copper armlets, ivory disks, and beads, and are never without -their weapons, spears and assegais, sime or daggers, and small -battle-axes. Honourable women wear tobes of red broadcloth and fillets -of grass or fibre confining the hair. - -Uhha, written by Mr. Cooley Oha, was formerly a large tract of land -bounded on the north by the mountains of Urundi, southwards and -eastwards by the Malagarazi River, and on the west by the northern parts -of Ujiji. As has been recounted, the Wahha dispersed by the Watuta have -dispersed themselves over the broad lands between Unyanyembe and the -Tanganyika, and their own fertile country, well stocked with the finest -cattle, has become a waste of jungle. A remnant of the tribe, under -Kanoni, their present Sultan, son of the late T’háre, took refuge in -the highlands of Urundi, not far from the principal settlement of the -mountain king Mwezí: here they find water and pasture for their herds, -and the strength of the country enables them to beat off their enemies. -The Wahha are a comparatively fair and a not uncomely race; they are -however universally held to be a vile and servile people; according to -the Arabs they came originally from the southern regions, the most -ancient seat of slavery in E. Africa. Their Sultans or chiefs are of -Wahinda or princely origin, probably descendants from the regal race of -Unyamwezi. Wahha slaves sell dearly at Msene; an adult male costs from -five to six doti merkani, and a full-grown girl one gorah merkani or -kaniki. - -[Illustration: Head Dresses of Wanyamwezi.] - - - - -CHAP. XIV. - -WE EXPLORE THE TANGANYIKA LAKE. - - -My first care after settling in Hamid’s Tembe, was to purify the floor -by pastiles of assafœtida, and fumigations of gunpowder; my second was -to prepare the roof for the rainy season. Improvement, however, -progressed slowly; the “children” of Said bin Salim were too lazy to -work; and the Wanyamwezi porters, having expended their hire in slaves, -and fearing loss by delay, took the earliest opportunity of deserting. -By the aid of a Msawahili artisan, I provided a pair of cartels, with -substitutes for chairs and tables. Benches of clay were built round the -rooms, but they proved useless, being found regularly every morning -occupied in force by a swarming, struggling colony, of the largest white -ants. The roof, long overgrown with tall grass, was fortified with an -extra coat of mud; it never ceased, however, leaking like a colander; -presently the floor was covered with deep puddles, then masses of earth -dropped from the sopped copings and sides of the solid walls, and, at -last, during the violent showers, half the building fell in. The -consequence of the extreme humidity was, that every book which had -English paste in it was rendered useless by decay; writing was rendered -illegible by stains and black mildew; moreover, during my absence, -whilst exploring the Lake, Said bin Salim having neglected to keep a -fire, as was ordered, constantly burning in the house, a large botanical -collection was irretrievably lost. This was the more regretable as our -return to the coast took place during the dry season, when the woods -were bare of leaf, flower, and fruit. - -On the second day after my arrival I was called upon by “Kannena,” the -headman of Kawele, under Rusimba, the Mwami, or principal chief of -Ujiji. I had heard a bad account of the former. His predecessor, Kabeza, -a great favourite with the Arabs, had died about two months before we -entered Kawele, leaving a single son, hardly ten years old, and Kannena, -a slave, having the art to please the widows of the deceased, and, -through them, the tribe, caused himself to be elected temporary headman -during the heir’s minority. He was introduced habited in silk turban and -broadcloth coat, which I afterwards heard he had borrowed from the -Baloch, in order to put in a prepossessing first appearance. The effort, -however, failed; his aspect was truly ignoble; a short, squat, and -broad-backed figure, with natural “plumpers,” a black skin cut and -carved in various patterns, thick straight, stumpy, legs, and huge splay -feet; his low narrow brow was ever knotted into a peevish frown, his -apology for a nose much resembled the pug with which the ancients -provided Silenus, and a villanous expression lurked about the depressed -corners of his thick-lipped, sensual, liquorish mouth. On this occasion -he behaved with remarkable civility, and he introduced, as the envoys -commissioned by the great Rusimba to receive his blackmail, two -gentlemen a quarter-clad in the greasiest and scantiest bark-aprons, and -armed with dwarfish battle-axes. The present was finally settled at ten -coil-bracelets and two fundi of coral-beads. I had no salt--the first -article in demand--to spare, or much valuable merchandise might have -been saved. The return was six small bundles of grain, worth, probably, -one-tenth of what had been received. Then Kannena opened trade by -sending us a nominal gift, a fine ivory, weighing at least seventy -pounds, and worth, perhaps, one hundred pounds, or nearly two mens’ -loads of the white or blue-porcelain beads used in this traffic. After -keeping it for a day or two, I returned it, excusing myself by saying -that, having visited the Tanganyika as a “Sarkal,” I could have no -dealings in ivory and slaves. - -This was right and proper in the character of a “Sarkal.” But future -adventurers are strongly advised always to assume the character of -traders. In the first place, it explains the traveller’s motives to the -people, who otherwise lose themselves in a waste of wild conjecture. -Secondly, under this plea, the explorer can push forward into unknown -countries; he will be civilly received, and lightly fined, because the -hosts expect to see him or his semblables again; whereas, appearing -without ostensible motive amongst them, he would be stripped of his -last cloth by recurring confiscations, fines, and every annoyance which -greed of gain can suggest. Thus, as the sequel will prove, he loses more -by overcharges than by the trifling outlay necessary to support the -character of a trader. He travels respectably as a “Mundewa” or “Tajir,” -a merchant, which is ever the highest title given by the people to -strangers; and he can avoid exciting the jealousy of the Arabs by -exchanging his tusks with them at a trifling loss when comforts or -provisions are required for the road. - -So strange an announcement on my part aroused, as may be supposed, in -the minds of the Wajiji marvel, doubt, disbelief, ill-will. “These are -men who live by doing nothing!” exclaimed the race commercial as the -sons of Hamburg; and they lost no time in requesting me to quit their -territory sooner than convenient. To this I objected, offering, however, -as compensation for the loss of their octrois and perquisites to pay for -not trading what others paid for trading. Kannena roughly informed me -that he had a claim for Kiremba, or duties upon all purchases and sales; -two cloths, for instance, per head of slave, or per elephant’s tusk; and -that, as he expected to gain nothing by brokerage from me, he must -receive as compensation, four coil-bracelets and six cotton cloths. -These were at once forwarded to him. He then evidenced his ill-will in -various ways, and his people were not slow in showing the dark side of -their character. They threatened to flog Sayfu, the old Msawahili of -Chole, for giving me hints concerning prices. The two surviving riding -asses were repeatedly wounded with spears. Thieves broke into the -outhouses by night, and stole all the clothes belonging to the Jemadar -and to the bull-headed slave Mabruki. At first the widows of the late -Kabeza, to whom the only cows in the district belonged, supplied us -plentifully with milk; gradually the quantity shrank, whenever an -opportunity offered it was “cut off;” and, at last, we could no longer -afford the exorbitant price demanded. My companion having refused a -cheese to Kannena, the dowager ladies, who owned the cows, when applied -to for milk, threw away the vessel, and swore that by boiling what ought -to be drunk unboiled, we were manifestly bewitching and killing their -cattle. On one occasion, a young person related to Rusimba went to the -huts of the Baloch, and, snatching up a fine cloth which she clasped to -her bosom, defied them to recover it by force, and departed, declaring -that it was a fine for bringing “whites” into the country. At first our -heroes spoke of much slaughter likely to arise from such procedure, and -with theatrical gesture, made “_rapière au vent_;” presently -second-thoughts suggested how beautiful is peace, and thirdly, they -begged so hard, that I was compelled to ransom for them the article -purloined. I had unwittingly incurred the animosity of Kennena. On the -day after his appearance in rich clothing he had entered unannounced -with bare head, a spear or two in hand, and a bundle of wild-cats’ skins -by way of placket; not being recognised, he was turned out, and the -ejectment mortally offended his dignity. Still other travellers fared -even worse than we did. Said bin Majid, who afterwards arrived at Ujiji -to trade for ivory and slaves, had two followers wounded by the Wajiji, -one openly speared in the bazaar, and the other at night by a thief who -was detected digging through the wall of the store-hut. - -After trade was disposed of, ensued a general Bakhshish. Nothing of the -kind had been contemplated or prepared for at Zanzibar, but before -leaving Unyanyembe, I had found it necessary to offer an inducement, and -now the promise was to be fulfilled. Moreover, most of the party had -behaved badly, and in these exceptional lands, bad behaviour always -expects a reward. In the first place, says the Oriental, no man -misconducts himself unless he has power to offend you and you are -powerless to punish him. Secondly, by “petting” the offender, he may be -bribed to conduct himself decently. On the other hand, the Eastern -declares, by rewarding, praising, or promoting a man who has already -satisfied you, you do him no good, and you may do him great harm. The -boy Faraj, who had shamelessly deserted his master, Said bin Salim, was -afterwards found at Unyanyembe, in Snay bin Amir’s house, handsomely -dressed and treated like a guest; and his patron, forgetting all his -stern resolves of condign punishment, met him with a peculiar kindness. -I gave to the Baloch forty-five cloths, and to each slave, male and -female, a pair. The gratification, however, proved somewhat like that -man’s liberality who, according to the old satirist, presented fine -apparel to those whom he wished to ruin. Our people recklessly spent all -their Bakhshish in buying slaves, who generally deserted after a week, -leaving the unhappy ex-proprietor tantalised by all the torments of -ungratified acquisitiveness. - -At first the cold damp climate of the Lake Regions did not agree with -us; perhaps, too, the fish diet was over-rich and fat, and the abundance -of vegetables led to little excesses. All energy seemed to have -abandoned us. I lay for a fortnight upon the earth, too blind to read or -write, except with long intervals, too weak to ride, and too ill to -converse. My companion, who, when arriving at the Tanganyika Lake was -almost as “groggy” upon his legs as I was, suffered from a painful -ophthalmia, and from a curious distortion of face, which made him chew -sideways, like a ruminant. Valentine was nearly blind; and he also had a -wry mouth, by no means the properest for the process of mastication. -Gaetano, who arrived at Ujiji on the 17th February, was half-starved, -and his anxiety to make up for lost time brought on a severe attack of -fever. The Baloch complained of influenzas and catarrhs: too lazy to -build huts after occupying Kannena’s “Traveller’s Bungalow” for the -usual week, they had been turned out in favour of fresh visitors, and -their tempers were as sore as their lungs and throats. - -But work remained undone; it was necessary to awake from this lethargy. -Being determined to explore the northern extremity of the Tanganyika -Lake, whence, according to several informants, issued a large river, -flowing northwards, and seeing scanty chance of success, and every -prospect of an accident, if compelled to voyage in the wretched canoes -of the people, I at first resolved to despatch Said bin Salim across the -water, and, by his intervention, to hire from an Arab merchant, Hamid -bin Sulayyam, the only dow, or sailing-craft then in existence. But the -little Arab evidently shirked the mission, and he shirked so -artistically, that, after a few days, I released him, and directed my -companion to do his best about hiring the dow, and stocking it with -provisions for a month’s cruise. - -Then arose the preliminary difficulties of the trip. Kannena and all his -people, suspecting that my only object was economy in purchasing -provisions, opposed the project; they demanded exorbitant sums, and -often when bargained down and apparently satisfied, they started up and -rushed away, declaring that they washed their hands of the business. At -length, Lurinda, the neighbouring headman, was persuaded to supply a -Nakhoda and a crew of twenty men. An Arab pays on these occasions, -besides rations, ten per cent. upon merchandise; the white men were -compelled to give four coil-bracelets and eight cloths for the canoe; -besides which, the crew received, as hire, six coil-bracelets, and to -each individual provisions for eight days, and twenty khete of large -blue-glass beads, and small blue-porcelains were issued. After many -delays, my companion set out on the 2nd of March, in the vilest weather, -and spent the first stormy day near the embouchure of the Ruche River, -within cannon shot of Kawele. This halt gave our persecutors time to -change their minds once more, and again to forbid the journey. I was -compelled to purchase their permission by sending to Kannena an -equivalent of what had been paid for the canoe to Lurinda, viz. four -coil-bracelets and eight cloths. Two days afterwards my companion, -supplied with an ample outfit, and accompanied by two Baloch and his -men--Gaetano and Bombay--crossed the bay of Ukaranga, and made his final -departure for the islands. - -During my twenty-seven days of solitude the time sped quickly; it was -chiefly spent in eating and drinking, smoking and dozing. Awaking at 2 -or 3 A.M., I lay anxiously expecting the grey light creeping through the -door-chinks and making darkness visible; the glad tidings of its -approach were announced by the cawing of the crows and the crowing of -the village cocks. When the golden rays began to stream over the red -earth, the torpid Valentine was called up; he brought with him a mess of -Suji, or rice-flour boiled in water, with a little cold milk as a -relish. Then entered Muhabanya, the “slavey” of the establishment, armed -with a leafy branch to sweep the floor, and to slay the huge wasps that -riddled the walls of the tenement. This done he lit the fire--the -excessive damp rendered this precaution necessary--and sitting over it -he bathed his face and hands--luxurious dog!--in the pungent smoke. -Ensued visits of ceremony from Said bin Salim and the Jemadar, who sat, -stared, and, somewhat disappointed at seeing no fresh symptoms of -approaching dissolution, told me so with their faces, and went away. -From 7 A.M. till 9 A.M., the breakfast hour, Valentine was applied to -tailoring, gun-cleaning, and similar light work, over which he groaned -and grumbled, whilst I settled down to diaries and vocabularies, a -process interrupted by sundry pipes. Breakfast was again a mess of Suji -and milk,--such civilised articles as tea, coffee, and sugar, had been -unknown to me for months. Again the servants resumed their labour, and -they worked, with the interval of two hours for sleep at noon, till 4 -P.M. During this time the owner lay like a log upon his cot, smoking -almost uninterruptedly, dreaming of things past, and visioning things -present, and sometimes indulging himself in a few lines of reading and -writing. - -Dinner was an alternation of fish and fowl, game and butchers’ meat -being rarely procurable at Ujiji. The fish were in two extremes, either -insipid and soft, or so fat and coarse that a few mouthfuls sufficed; -most of them resembled the species seen in the seas of Western India, -and the eels and small shrimps recalled memories of Europe. The poultry, -though inferior to that of Unyanyembe, was incomparably better than the -lean stringy Indian chicken. The vegetables were various and plentiful, -tomatoes, Jerusalem artichokes, sweet potatoes, yams, and several kinds -of beans, especially a white harricot, which afforded many a _purée_; -the only fruit procurable was the plantain, and the only drink--the -toddy being a bad imitation of vinegar--was water. - -As evening approached I made an attempt to sit under the broad eaves of -the Tembe, and to enjoy the delicious spectacle of this virgin Nature, -and the reveries to which it gave birth. - - “A pleasing land of drowsihed it was, - Of dreams that wave before the half-shut eye, - And of gay castles in the clouds that pass, - For ever flushing round a summer sky.” - -It reminded me of the loveliest glimpses of the Mediterranean; there -were the same “laughing tides,” pellucid sheets of dark blue water, -borrowing their tints from the vinous shores beyond; the same purple -light of youth upon the cheek of the earlier evening, the same bright -sunsets, with their radiant vistas of crimson and gold opening like the -portals of a world beyond the skies; the same short-lived grace and -loveliness of the twilight; and, as night closed over the earth, the -same cool flood of transparent moonbeam, pouring on the tufty heights -and bathing their sides with the whiteness of virgin snow. - -At 7 P.M., as the last flush faded from the occident, the lamp--a wick -in a broken pot full of palm oil--was brought in; Said bin Salim -appeared to give the news of the day,--how A. had abused B., and how C. -had nearly been beaten by D., and a brief conversation led to the hour -of sleep. A dreary, dismal day, you will exclaim, gentle reader; a day -that - - “lasts out a night in Russia, - When nights are longest there.” - -Yet it had its enjoyments. There were no post-offices, and this African -Eden had other advantages, which, probably, I might vainly attempt to -describe. - -On the 29th of March the rattling of matchlocks announced my companion’s -return. The Masika had done its worst upon him. I never saw a man so -thoroughly moist and mildewed; he justified even the French phrase “wet -to the bone.” His paraphernalia were in a similar state; his guns were -grained with rust, and his fire-proof powder-magazine had admitted the -monsoon-rain. I was sorely disappointed: he had done literally nothing. -About ten days before his return I had been visited by Khamis bin Jumah, -an Arab merchant, who, on the part of the proprietor of the dow, gave -the gratifying message that we could have it when we pleased. I cannot -explain where the mismanagement lay; it appears, however, that the wily -“son of Sulayyam” detained the traveller simply for the purpose of -obtaining from him gratis a little gunpowder. My companion had rested -content with the promise that after three months the dow should be let -to us for a sum of 500 dollars! and he had returned without boat or -provisions to report ill success. The faces of Said bin Salim and the -Jemadar, when they heard the period mentioned, were indeed a study. I -consoled him and myself as I best could, and applied myself to supplying -certain deficiencies as regards orthography and syntax in a diary which -appeared in Blackwood, of September 1859, under the title “Journal of a -Cruise in the Tanganyika Lake, Central Africa.” I must confess, however, -my surprise at, amongst many other things, the vast horseshoe of lofty -mountain placed by my companion in the map attached to that paper, near -the very heart of Sir R. Murchison’s Depression. As this wholly -hypothetical, or rather inventive feature,--I had seen the mountains -growing upon paper under my companion’s hand, from a thin ridge of hill -fringing the Tanganyika to the portentous dimensions given in Blackwood -(Sept. 1859), and Dr. Petermann’s Mittheilungen, (No. 9, of 1859,)--wore -a crescent form, my companion gravely published, with all the pomp of -discovery, in the largest capitals, “This mountain range I consider to -be THE TRUE MOUNTAINS OF THE MOON.” * * * Thus men _do_ geography! and -thus discovery is stultified. - -When my companion had somewhat recovered from his wetness, and from the -effects of punching-in with a pen-knife a beetle which had visited his -tympanum[2], I began seriously to seek some means of exploring the -northern head of the Tanganyika. Hamid bin Sulayyam had informed his -late guest that he had visited the place, where, although attacked by an -armada of thirty or forty hostile canoes, he had felt the influence of a -large river, which drains the water northwards: in fact, he told the -“lie with circumstance.” By a curious coincidence, Sayfu, the Mswahili -of Chole, declared that he also had sighted a stream issuing from the -northern extremity of the lake--this was the “lie direct”--and he -offered to accompany me as guide and interpreter. When we compared -statements, we saw what was before us,--a prize for which wealth, -health, and life, were to be risked. - - [2] My companion gives in Blackwood, Sept. 1859, the following - description of his untoward accident:--“This day (that of his arrival - at the isle of Kivira) passed in rest and idleness, recruiting from - our late exertions. At night a violent storm of rain and wind beat on - my tent with such fury that its nether parts were torn away from the - pegs, and the tent itself was only kept upright by sheer force. On the - wind’s abating, a candle was lighted to rearrange the kit, and in a - moment, as though by magic, the whole interior became covered with a - host of small black beetles, evidently attracted by the glimmer of the - candle. They were so annoyingly determined in their choice of place - for peregrinating, that it seemed hopeless my trying to brush them off - the clothes or bedding, for as one was knocked aside another came on, - and then another, till at last, worn out, I extinguished the candle, - and with difficulty--trying to overcome the tickling annoyance - occasioned by these intruders crawling up my sleeves and into my hair, - or down my back and legs--fell off to sleep. Repose that night was not - destined to be my lot. One of these horrid little insects awoke me in - his struggles to penetrate my ear, but just too late: for in my - endeavour to extract him, I aided his immersion. He went his course, - struggling up the narrow channel, until he got arrested by want of - passage-room. This impediment evidently enraged him, for he began with - exceeding vigour, like a rabbit at a hole, to dig violently away at my - tympanum. The queer sensation this amusing _measure_ excited in me is - past description. I felt inclined to act as our donkeys once did, when - beset by a swarm of bees, who buzzed about their ears and stung their - heads and eyes until they were so irritated and confused that they - galloped about in the most distracted order, trying to knock them off - by treading on their heads, or by rushing under bushes, into houses, - or through any jungle they could find. Indeed, I do not know which was - worst off. The bees killed some of them and this beetle nearly did for - me. What to do I knew not. Neither tobacco, oil, nor salt could be - found: I therefore tried melted butter; that failing, I applied the - point of a pen-knife to his back, which did more harm than good; for - though a few thrusts kept him quiet, the point also wounded my ear so - badly, that inflammation set in, severe suppuration took place, and - all the facial glands extending from that point down to the point of - the shoulder became contorted and drawn aside, and a string of bubos - decorated the whole length of that region. It was the most painful - thing I ever remember to have endured; but, more annoying still, I - could not open my mouth for several days, and had to feed on broth - alone. For many months the tumour made me almost deaf, and ate a hole - between that orifice and the nose, so that when I blew it, my ear - whistled so audibly that those who heard it laughed. Six or seven - months after this accident happened, bits of the beetle, a leg, a - wing, or parts of its body, came away in the wax.” - -It now became apparent that the Masika or rains, which the Arabs, whose -barbarous lunar year renders untrustworthy in measurements of time, had -erroneously represented as synchronous with the wet monsoon of Zanzibar, -was drawing to a close, and that the season for navigation was -beginning.[3] After some preliminaries with Said bin Salim, Kannena, -who had been preparing for a cruise northwards, was summoned before me. -He agreed to convey me; but when I asked him the conditions on which he -would show me the Mtoni, or river, he jumped up, discharged a volley of -oaths, and sprang from the house like an enraged baboon. I was prepared -for this difficulty, having had several warnings that the tribes on the -northern shores of the Tanganyika allow no trade. But fears like -Kannena’s may generally be bought over. I trusted, therefore, to Fate, -and resolved that at all costs, even if reduced to actual want, we -should visit this mysterious stream. At length the headman yielded every -point. He received, it is true, an exorbitant sum. Arabs visiting Uvira, -the “ultima thule” of lake navigation, pay one cloth to each of the -crew; and the fare of a single passenger is a brace of coil-bracelets. -For two canoes, the larger sixty feet by four, and the lesser about -two-thirds that size, I paid thirty-three coil-bracelets, here equal to -sixty dollars, twenty cloths, thirty-six khete of blue glass beads, and -770 ditto of white-porcelains and green-glass. I also promised to -Kannena a rich reward if he acted up to his word; and as an earnest I -threw over his shoulders a six-foot length of scarlet broadcloth, which -caused his lips to tremble with joy, despite his struggles to conceal -it. The Nakhoda (captain) and the crew in turn received, besides -rations, eighty cloths, 170 khete of blue glass-beads, and forty of -coral-porcelains, locally three times more valuable than whites or -greens. Sayfu, the interpreter, was as extravagantly paid in eight -cloths and twenty-seven pounds of white and blue-porcelains. After -abundance of dispute it was settled that the crews should consist of -fifty-five men, thirty-three to the larger and twenty-two to the smaller -canoe. It was an excess of at least one-half, who went for their own -profit, not for our pleasure. When this point was conceded, we were -kindly permitted to take with us the two Goanese, the two black -gun-carriers, and three Baloch as an escort. The latter were the valiant -Khudabakhsh, whom I feared to leave behind; Jelai, the mestiço-Mekrani; -and, thirdly, Riza, the least mutinous and uncivil of the party. - - [3] Not unmindful of the instructions of the Bombay Geographical - Society, which called especial attention to the amount of rain-fall - and evaporation in a region, which abounding in lakes and rivers yet - sends no supplies to the sea, I had prepared, at Zanzibar, a dish and - a gauge for the purpose of comparing the hygrometry of the African - with that of the Indian rainy monsoon. The instruments, however, were - fated to do no work. The first portion of the Masika was spent in a - journey; ensued severe sickness, and the end of the rains happened - during a voyage to the north of the Tanganyika. A few scattered - observations might have been registered, but it was judged better to - bring home no results, rather than imperfections which could only - mislead the meteorologist. - -Before departure it will be necessary to lay before the reader a sketch -of our conveyance. The first aspect of these canoes made me lament the -loss of Mr. Francis’ iron boat: regrets, however, were of no avail. -_Quocumque modo--rem!_ was the word. - -The Baumrinden are unknown upon the Tanganyika Lake, where the smaller -craft are monoxyles, generally damaged in the bow by the fishermen’s -fire. The larger are long, narrow “matumbi,” or canoes, rudely hollowed -with the axe--the application of fire being still to be invented,--in -fact, a mere log of mvule, or some other large tree which abound in the -land of the Wagoma, opposite Ujiji. The trunks are felled, scooped out -in loco, dragged and pushed by man-power down the slopes, and finally -launched and paddled over to their destination. The most considerable -are composed of three parts--clumsy, misshapen planks, forming, when -placed side by side, a keel and two gunwales, the latter fastened to -the centre-piece by cords of palm-fibre passing through lines of holes. -The want of caulking causes excessive leakage: the crew take duty as -balesmen in turns. The cry Senga!--bale out!--rarely ceases, and the -irregular hollowing of the tree-trunks makes them lie lopsided in the -water. These vessels have neither masts nor sails; artifices which now -do not extend to this part of the African world. An iron ring, fixed in -the stern, is intended for a rudder, which, however, seldom appears -except in the canoes of the Arabs, steering is managed by the paddle, -and a flag-staff or a fishing-rod projects jib-like from the bow. Layers -of palm-ribs, which serve for fuel, are strewed over the interior to -raise the damageable cargo--it is often of salt--above the bilge-water. -The crew sit upon narrow benches, extending across the canoe and -fastened with cords to holes in the two side-pieces; upon each bench, -despite the narrowness of the craft, two men place themselves side by -side. The “Karagwah,” stout stiff mats used for hutting and bedding, are -spread for comfort upon the seats; and for convenience of paddling, the -sailors, when at work, incline their bodies over the sides. The space -under the seats is used for stowage. In the centre there is a square -place, about six feet long, left clear of benches; here also cargo is -stored, passengers, cattle, and slaves litter down, the paddles, gourds, -and other furniture of the crew are thrown, and the baling is carried on -by means of an old gourd. The hold is often ankle-deep in water, and -affords no convenience for leaning or lying down; the most comfortable -place, therefore, is near the stern or the bow of the boat. The spears -are planted upright amidships, at one or two corners of the central -space so as to be ready at a moment’s notice; each man usually has his -dagger stuck in his belt, and on long trips all are provided with bows -and arrows. These Africans cannot row; indeed they will not use oars. -The paddle on the Tanganyika is a stout staff, about six feet long, and -cut out at the top to admit a trefoil-shaped block the size of a man’s -hand:--it was described in South Africa by Captain Owen. The block, -adorned with black paint in triangular patches, is lashed to the staff -by a bit of whipcord, and it seldom lasts through the day without -breaking away from its frail tackling. The paddler, placing one hand on -the top and the other about the middle of the staff, scoops up as it -were, the water in front of him, steadying his paddle by drawing it -along the side of the canoe. The eternal splashing keeps the boat wet. -It is a laborious occupation, and an excessive waste of power. - -The Lake People derive their modern practice of navigation, doubtless, -from days of old; the earliest accounts of the Portuguese mention the -traffic of this inland sea. They have three principal beats from Ujiji: -the northern abuts at the ivory and slave marts of Uvira; the western -conducts to the opposite shores of the Lake and the island depôts on the -south-west; and the southern leads to the land of Marunga. Their canoes -creep along the shores like the hollowed elders of thirty bygone -centuries, and, waiting till the weather augurs fairly, they make a -desperate push for the other side. Nothing but their extreme timidity, -except when emboldened by the prospect of a speedy return home, -preserves their cranky craft from constant accidents. The Arabs, warned -by the past, rarely trust themselves to this Lake of Storms, preferring -the certain peculation incurred by deputing for trading purposes agents -and slaves to personal risk. Those who must voyage on the lake build, -by means of their menials and artisans, dows, or sailing-vessels, and -teach their newly-bought gangs to use oars instead of paddles. This is -rather an economy of money than of time: they expend six months upon -making the dow, whereas they can buy the largest canoe for a few -farasilah of ivory. - -As my outfit was already running low, I persuaded, before departure, two -of the Baloch to return with a down-caravan westwards, and arrived at -Unyanyembe, to communicate personally with my agent, Snay bin Amir. They -agreed so to do, but the Mtongi, or head of the African kafilah, with -true African futility, promised to take them on the next day, and set -out that night on his journey. As Said bin Majid was about despatching a -large armed party to the north of the Lake, I then hurried on my -preparations for the voyage. Provisions and tobacco were laid in, the -tent was repaired, and our outfit, four half loads of salt--of these two -were melted in the canoe, six Gorah,--or one load of domestics, nine -coil-bracelets, the remainder of our store, one load of blue porcelain -beads, and a small bag of the valuable red coral intended for private -expenses, and “El Akibah” (the reserve), was properly packed for -concealment. Meanwhile some trifling disputes occurred with Kannena, who -was in the habit of coming to our Tembe, drunk and surly, with eyes like -two gouts of blood, knitted front, and lips viciously shot out: when -contradicted or opposed, he screamed and gesticulated as if haunted by -his P’hepo,--his fiend;--and when very evilly disposed, he would proceed -to the extreme measure of cutting down a tent. This slave-sultan was a -“son of noise:” he affected _brusquerie_ of manner and violence of -demeanour the better to impressionise his unruly subjects; and he -frightened the timid souls around us, till at last the Jemadar’s phrase -was, “strength is useless here.” Had I led, however, three hundred -instead of thirty matchlocks, he would have crouched and cowered like a -whipped cur. - -At 4 P.M., on the 9th April, appeared before the Kannena in a tattered -red turban donned for the occasion. He was accompanied by his ward, who -was to perform the voyage as a training to act sultan, and he was -followed by his sailors bearing salt, in company with their loud-voiced -wives and daughters performing upon the wildest musical instruments. Of -these the most noisy was a kind of shaum, a straight, long and narrow -tube of wood, bound with palm-fibre and provided with an opening mouth -like a clarionet; a distressing bray is kept up by blowing through a -hole pierced in the side. The most monotonous was a pair of -foolscap-shaped plates of thin iron, joined at the apices and connected -at the bases by a solid cross-bar of the same metal; this rude tomtom is -performed upon by a muffled stick with painful perseverance; the -sound--how harshly it intruded upon the stilly beauty of the scenes -around!--still lingers and long shall linger in my tympanum. The canoe -had been moved from its usual position opposite our Tembe, to a place of -known departure--otherwise not a soul could have been persuaded to -embark--and ignoring the distance, I condemned myself to a hobble of -three miles over rough and wet ground. The night was comfortless; the -crew, who were all “half-seas over,” made the noise of bedlamites; and -two heavy falls of rain drenching the flimsy tent, at once spoiled the -tobacco and flour, the grain and the vegetables prepared for the voyage. - -Early on the next morning we embarked on board the canoes: the crews had -been collected, paid, and rationed, but as long as they were near home -it was impossible to keep them together. Each man thinking solely of -his own affairs, and disdaining the slightest regard for the wishes, the -comfort, or the advantage of his employers, they objected systematically -to every article which I had embarked. Kannena had filled the canoes -with his and his people’s salt, consequently he would not carry even a -cartel. Various points settled we hove anchor or rather hauled up the -block of granite doing anchoral duty, and with the usual hubbub and -strife, the orders which every man gives and the advice which no man -takes, we paddled in half an hour to a shingly and grassy creek, -defended by a sandpit and backed by a few tall massive trees. Opposite -and but a few yards distant, rose the desert islet of Bangwe, a -quoin-shaped mass of sandstone and red earth, bluff to the north and -gradually shelving towards the water at the other extremity: the -prolific moisture above and around had covered its upper ledge with a -coat of rich thick vegetation. Landward the country rises above the -creek, and upon its earth-waves, which cultivation shares with wild -growth, appear a few scattered hamlets. - -Boats generally waste some days at Bangwe Bay, the stage being short -enough for the usual scene being encored. They load and reload, trim -cargo, complete rations, collect crews, and take leave of friends and -relatives, women, and palm-wine. We pitched a tent and halted in a -tornado of wind and rain. Kannena would not move without the present of -one of our three goats. At 4 P.M., on the 11th April, the canoes were -laden and paddled out to and back from Bangwe islet, when those knowing -in such matters pronounced them so heavily weighted as to be unsafe: -whereupon, the youth Riza, sorely against my will, was sent back to the -Kawele. On that night a furious gale carried away my tent, whilst the -Goanese were, or pretended to be, out of hearing. I slept, however, -comfortably enough upon the crest of a sand-wave higher than the puddles -around it, and--blessings on the name of Mackintosh!--escaped the -pitiless pelting of the rain. - -The next morning showed a calm sea, levelled by the showers, and no -pretext or desire for longer detention lingered in the hearts of the -crew. At 7·20 A.M., on the 12th April, 1858, my canoe--bearing for the -first time on those dark waters-- - - “The flag that braved a thousand years - The battle and the breeze,” - -stood out of Bangwe Bay, and followed by my companion’s turned the -landspit separating the bight from the main, and made directly for the -cloudy and storm-vexed north. The eastern shore of the lake, along which -we coasted, was a bluff of red earth pudding’d with separate blocks of -sandstone. Beyond this headland the coast dips, showing lines of shingle -or golden-coloured quartzose sand, and on the shelving plain appear the -little fishing-villages. They are usually built at the mouths of the -gaps, combes, and gullies, whose deep gorges winding through the -background of hill-curtain, become, after rains, the beds of -mountain-torrents. The wretched settlements are placed between the tree -clad declivities and the shore on which the waves break. The sites are -far from comfortable: the ground is here veiled with thick and fetid -grass; there it is a puddle of black mud, and there a rivulet trickles -through the villages. The hamlet consists of half a dozen beehive-huts, -foul, flimsy, and leaky; their only furniture is a hearth of three clods -or stones, with a few mats and fishing implements. The settlements are -distinguished from a distance by their plantations of palm and -plantain, and by large spreading trees, from whose branches are -suspended the hoops and the drag-nets not in actual use, and under whose -shade the people sit propped against their monoxyles, which are drawn -high up out of danger of the surf. There was no trade, and few -provisions were procurable at Kigari. We halted there to rest, and -pitching a tent in the thick grass we spent a night loud with wind and -rain. - -Rising at black dawn on the 13th April, the crews rowed hard for six -hours between Kigari and another dirty little fishing-village called -Nyasanga. The settlement supplied fish-fry, but neither grain nor -vegetables were offered for sale. At this place, the frontier district -between Ujiji and Urundi, our Wajiji took leave of their fellow-clansmen -and prepared with serious countenances for all the perils of -expatriation. - -This is the place for a few words concerning boating and voyaging upon -the Tanganyika Lakes. The Wajiji, and indeed all these races, never work -silently or regularly. The paddling is accompanied by a long monotonous -melancholy howl, answered by the yells and shouts of the chorus, and -broken occasionally by a shrill scream of delight from the boys which -seems violently to excite the adults. The bray and clang of the horns, -shaums, and tomtoms, blown and banged incessantly by one or more men in -the bow of each canoe, made worse by brazen-lunged imitations of these -instruments in the squeaking trebles of the younger paddlers, lasts -throughout the livelong day, except when terror induces a general -silence. These “Wáná Máji”--sons of water--work in “spirts,” applying -lustily to the task till the perspiration pours down their sooty -persons. Despite my remonstrances, they insisted upon splashing the -water in shovelsful over the canoe. They make terribly long faces, -however, they tremble like dogs in a storm of sleet, and they are ready -to whimper when compelled by sickness or accident to sit with me under -the endless cold wave-bath in the hold. After a few minutes of exertion, -fatigued and worn, they stop to quarrel, or they progress languidly till -recruited for another effort. When two boats are together they race -continually till a bump--the signal for a general grin--and the -difficulty of using the entangled paddles afford an excuse for a little -loitering, and for the loud chatter, and violent abuse, without which -apparently this people cannot hold converse. At times they halt to eat, -drink, and smoke: the bhang-pipe is produced after every hour, and the -paddles are taken in whilst they indulge in the usual screaming -convulsive whooping-cough. They halt for their own purposes but not for -ours; all powers of persuasion fail when they are requested to put into -a likely place for collecting shells or stones.[4] For some -superstitious reason they allow no questions to be asked, they will not -dip a pot for water into the lake, fearing to be followed and perhaps -boarded by crocodiles, which are hated and dreaded by these black -navigators, much as is the shark by our seamen, and for the same cause -not a scrap of food must be thrown overboard--even the offal must be -cast into the hold. “Whittling” is here a mortal sin: to chip or break -off the smallest bit of even a condemned old tub drawn up on the beach -causes a serious disturbance. By the advice of a kind and amiable -friend[5], I had supplied myself with the desiderata for sounding and -ascertaining the bottom of the Lake: the crew would have seen me under -water rather than halt for a moment when it did not suit their purpose. -The wild men lose half an hour, when time is most precious, to secure a -dead fish as it floats past the canoe entangled in its net. They never -pass a village without a dispute; some wishing to land, others objecting -because some wish it. The captain, who occupies some comfortable place -in the bow, stern, or waist, has little authority; and if the canoe be -allowed to touch the shore, its men will spring out without an idea of -consulting aught beyond their own inclinations. Arrived at the -halting-place they pour on shore; some proceed to gather firewood, -others go in search of rations, and others raise the boothies. A dozen -barked sticks of various lengths are planted firmly in the ground; the -ends are bent and lashed together in the shape of half an orange, by -strips of tree-fibre; they are then covered with the karagwah--the -stiff-reed mats used as cushions when paddling--these are tightly bound -on, and thus a hut is made capable of defending from rain the bodies of -four or five men whose legs which project beyond the shelter are -apparently not supposed to require covering. Obeying only impulse, and -wholly deficient in order and purpose, they make the voyage as -uncomfortable as possible; they have no regular stages and no fixed -halting-places; they waste a fine cool morning, and pull through the -heat of the day, or after dozing throughout the evening, at the loud cry -of “Pakírá Bábá!”--pack up, hearties!--they scramble into their canoes -about midnight. Outward-bound they seek opportunities for delay; when it -is once “up anchor for home,” they hurry with dangerous haste. - - [4] THE FOLLOWING PAPER BY S. P. WOODWARD, F.G.S., COMMUNICATED BY - PROF. OWEN, APPEARED IN THE PROCEEDINGS OF THE ZOOLOGICAL SOCIETY OF - LONDON, JUNE 28, 1859. - - The four shells which form the subject of the present note were - collected by Captain Speke in the great freshwater lake Tanganyika in - Central Africa. - - The large bivalve belongs to the genus _Iridina_, Lamarck,--a group of - river mussels, of which there are nine reputed species, all belonging - to the African continent. This little group has been divided into - several sub-genera. That to which the new shell belongs is - distinguished by its broad and deeply-wrinkled hinge-line, and is - called _Pleiodon_ by Conrad. The posterior slope of this shell is - encrusted with tufa, as if there were limestone rocks in the vicinity - of its habitat. - - The small bivalve is a normal _Unio_, with finely sculptured valves. - - The smaller univalve is concave beneath, and so much resembles a - _Nerita_ or _Calyptræa_ that it would be taken for a sea-shell if its - history were not well authenticated. It agrees essentially with - _Lithoglyphus_,--a genus peculiar to the Danube; for the American - shells referred to it are probably, or, I may say, certainly distinct. - It agrees with the Danubian shells in the extreme obliquity of the - aperture, and differs in the width of the umbilicus, which in the - European species is nearly concealed by the callous columellar lip. - - In the Upper Eocene Tertiaries of the Isle of Wight there are several - estuary shells, forming the genus _Globulus_, Sow., whose affinities - are uncertain, but which resemble _Lithoglyphus_. - - The lake Tanganyika (situated in lat. 3° to 8° S. and long. 30° E.), - which is several hundred miles in length and 30 to 40 in breadth, - seems entirely disconnected with the region of the Danube: but the - separation may not always have been so complete, for there is another - great lake, Nyanza, to the northward of Tanganyika, which is believed - by Speke to be the principal source of the Nile. - - The other univalve is a _Melania_, of the sub-genus _Melanella_ - (Swainson), similar in shape to _M. hollandi_ of S. Europe, and - similar to several Eocene species of the Isle of Wight. Its colour, - solidity, and tuberculated ribs give it much the appearance of a small - marine whelk (_Nassa_); and it is found in more boisterous waters, on - the shores of this great inland sea, than most of its congeners - inhabit. - - 1. IRIDINA (PLEIODON) SPEKII, n. sp. (Pl. XLVII. fig. 2.) - - Shell oblong, ventricose, somewhat attenuated at each end: base - slightly concave; epidermis chestnut brown, deepening to black at the - margin; anterior slope obscurely radiated; hinge-line compressed in - front and tuberculated, wider behind and deeply wrinkled. - - Length 4¾, breadth 2, thickness 1¾ inches. - - _Testa oblonga, tumida, extremitatibus fere attenuata, basi - subarcuata; epidermide castaneo-fusca, marginem versus nigricante; - linea cardinali antice compressa tuberculata, postice latiore, paucis - rugis arata._ - - 2. UNIO BURTONI, n. sp. (Pl. XLVII. fig. 1.) - - Shell small, oval, rather thin, somewhat pointed behind; umbones - small, not eroded; pale olive, concentrically furrowed, and sculptured - more or less with fine divaricating lines; anterior teeth narrow, not - prominent; posterior teeth laminar; pedal scar confluent with anterior - adductor. - - Length 12, breadth 8½, thickness 5½ lines. - - _Testa parva, ovalis, tenuiuscula, postice subattenuata; umbonibus - parvis, acuminatis; epidermide pallide olivacea; valvis lineolis - divaricatis, decussatum exaratis; dentibus cardinalibus angustis, haud - prominentibus._ - - 3. LITHOGLYPHUS ZONATUS, n. sp. (Pl. XLVII. fig. 3.) - - Shell orbicular, hemispherical; spire very small; aperture large, very - oblique; umbilicus wide and shallow, with an open fissure in the young - shell; lip continuous in front with the umbilical ridge; columella - callous, ultimately covering the fissure; body-whirl flattened, pale - olivaceous, with two brown bands, darker at the apex; lines of growth - crossed by numerous oblique, interrupted striæ. - - Diameter 5-6, height 3 lines. - - _Testa orbicularis, hemisphærica, late umbilicata (apud juniores - rimata), spira minuta; apertura magna, valde obliqua; labio calloso - (in testa adulta rimam tegente); pallide olivacea, fasciis duabus - fuscis zonata; lineis incrementi striolis interruptis oblique - decussatis._ - - 4. MELANIA (MELANELLA) NASSA, n. sp. (Pl. XLVII. fig. 4.) - - Shell ovate, strong, pale brown, with (sometimes) two dark bands; - spire shorter than the aperture; whirls flattened, ornamented with six - brown spiral ridges crossed with a variable number of white, - tuberculated, transverse ribs; base of body-whirl eight with - tuberculated spiral ridges variegated with white and brown; aperture - sinuated in front; outer lip simple; inner lip callous. - - Length 8½, breadth 5½ lines. - - _Testa ovata, solida, pallide fusca, zonis 2 nigricantibus aliquando - notata; spira apertura breviore; anfractibus planulatis, lineis 6 - fuscis spiralibus et costis tuberculatis ornatis; apertura antice - sinuata; labro simplici; labio calloso._ - - P.S. July 27th.--In addition to the foregoing shells, several others - were collected by Capt. Speke, when employed, under the command of - Capt. Burton, in exploring Central Africa in the years 1856-9; these - were deposited in the first instance with the Geographical Society, - and are now transferred to the British Museum. - - A specimen of _Ampullaria (Lanistes) sinistrorsa_, Lea, and odd valves - of two species of _Unio_, both smooth and olive-coloured, were picked - up in the Ugogo district, an elevated plateau in lat. 6° to 7° S., - long. 34° to 35° E. - - A large _Achatina_, most nearly related to _A. glutinosa_, Pfr., is - the “common snail” of the region between lake Tanganyika and the east - coast. Fossil specimens were obtained in the Usagara district, at a - place called Marora, 3000 feet above the sea, overlooking the Lufiji - River, where it intersects the coast range (lat. 7° to 8° S., long. - 36° to 36° E.). - - Another common land snail of the same district is the well known - “_Bulimus caillaudi_, Pfr.,” a shell more nearly related to _Achatina_ - than _Bulimus_. - - Captain Speke also found a solitary example of _Bulimus ovoideus_, - Brug., in a musjid on the island of Kiloa (lat. 9° S., long. 39° to - 40° E.). This species is identical with _B. grandis_, Desh., from the - island of Nosse Bé, Madagascar, and very closely allied to _B. - liberianus_, Lea, from Guinea. - - [5] Captain Balfour, H.M.I.N., who kindly supplied me with a list of - necessaries for sail-making and other such operations on the Lake. I - had indented upon the Engineers’ Stores, Bombay, for a Massey’s patent - or self-registering log, which would have been most useful had the - people allowed it to be used. Prevented by stress of business from - testing it in India, I found it at sea so thoroughly defective, that - it was returned from whence it came by the good aid of Captain - Frushard, then commanding the H.E.I.C.’s sloop of war _Elphinstone_. I - then prepared at Zanzibar, a line and a lead, properly hollowed to - admit of its being armed, and this safely reached the Tanganyika Lake. - It was not useless but unused: the crew objected to its being hove, - and moreover--lead and metal are never safe in Central Africa--the - line, which was originally short, was curtailed of one half during the - first night after our departure from Kawele. It is by no means easy to - estimate the rate of progress in these barbarous canoes barbarously - worked. During the “spirts” when the paddler bends his back manfully - to his task, a fully-manned craft may attain a maximum of 7 to 8 miles - per hour: this exertion, however, rarely exceeds a quarter of an hour, - and is always followed by delay. The usual pace, when all are fresh - and cool, is about 4 to 5 miles, which declines through 4 and 3 to 2½, - when the men are fatigued, or when the sun is high. The medium, - therefore, may be assumed at 4 miles for short, and a little more than - 2 miles an hour for long trips, halts deducted. - -On the 14th April, a cruise of four hours conducted us to Wafanya, a -settlement of Wajiji mixed with Warundi. Leaving this wretched mass of -hovels on the next day, which began with a solemn warning from Sayfu--a -man of melancholic temperament--we made in four hours Wafanya, the -southern limit of Urundi, and the only port in that inhospitable land -still open to travellers. Drawing up our canoes upon a clear narrow -sandstrip beyond the reach of the surf, we ascended a dwarf earth-cliff, -and pitching our tents under a spreading tree upon the summit, we made -ourselves as comfortable as the noisy, intrusive, and insolent crowd, -assembled to stare and to laugh at the strangers, would permit. The crew -raised their boothies within a stone-throw of the water, flight being -here the thought ever uppermost in their minds. - -The people of this country are a noisy insolent race, addicted, like all -their Lakist brethren, to drunkenness, and, when drunk, quarrelsome and -violent. At Wafanya, however, they are kept in order by Kanoni, their -mutware or minor chief, subject to “Mwezi,” the mwami or sultan of -Urundi. The old man appeared, when we reached his settlement, in some -state, preceded by an ancient carrying his standard, a long wisp of -white fibre attached to a spear, like the Turkish “horse-tail,” and -followed by a guard of forty or fifty stalwart young warriors armed with -stout lance-like spears for stabbing and throwing, straight double-edged -daggers, stiff bows, and heavy, grinded arrows. Kanoni began by -receiving his black-mail--four cloths, two coil-bracelets, and three -fundo of coral beads: the return was the inevitable goat. The climate of -Wafanya is alternately a damp-cold and a “muggy” heat; the crews, -however, if numerous and well armed, will delay here to feed when -northward bound, and to lay in provisions when returning to their homes. -Sheep and fine fat goats vary in value from one to two cloths; a fowl, -or five to six eggs, costs a khete of beads; sweet potatoes are somewhat -dearer than at Ujiji; there is no rice, but holcus and manioc are cheap -and abundant, about 5 lbs. of the latter being sold for a single khete. -Even milk is at times procurable. A sharp business is carried on in -chikichi or palm-oil, of which a large earthen pot is bought for a -cloth; the best paddles used by the crews are made at Wafanya; and the -mbugu, or bark-cloth, is bought for four to ten khete, about one third -of the market-price at Ujiji. Salt, being imported from Uvinza, is dear -and scarce: it forms the first demand for barter, and beads the second. -Large fish is offered for sale, but the small fry is the only article of -the kind which is to be purchased fresh. The country owes its plenty, -according to the guides, to almost perennial showers. - -The inhospitality of the Warundi and their northern neighbours, who -would plunder a canoe or insist upon a black-mail equivalent to plunder, -allows neither traffic nor transit to the north of Wafanya. Here, -therefore, the crews prepare to cross the Tanganyika, which is divided -into two stages by the island of Ubwari. - -In Ubwari I had indeed discovered “an island far away.” It is probably -the place alluded to by the Portuguese historian, De Barros, in this -important passage concerning the great lake in the centre of Africa: “It -is a sea of such magnitude as to be capable of being navigated by many -sail; and among the islands in it there is one capable of sending forth -an army of 30,000 men.” Ubwari appears from a distance of two days -bearing north-west; it is then somewhat hazy, owing to the extreme -humidity of the atmosphere. From Wafanya it shows a clear profile about -eighteen to twenty miles westward, and the breadth of the western -channel between it and the mainland averages from six to seven miles. -Its north point lies in south lat. 4° 7′, and the lay is N. 17° E. -(corrected). From the northern point of Ubwari the eastern prolongation -of the lake bears N. 3° W. and the western N. 10° W. It is the only -island near the centre of the Tanganyika--a long, narrow lump of rock, -twenty to twenty-five geographical miles long, by four or five of -extreme breadth, with a high longitudinal spine, like a hog’s back, -falling towards the water--here shelving, there steep, on the -sea-side--where it ends in abrupt cliffs, here and there broken by broad -or narrow gorges. Green from head to foot, in richness and profuseness -of vegetation it equals, and perhaps excels, the shores of the -Tanganyika, and in parts it appears carefully cultivated. Mariners dare -not disembark on Ubwari, except at the principal places; and upon the -wooded hill-sides wild men are, or are supposed to be, ever lurking in -wait for human prey. - -We halted two miserable days at Wafanya. The country is peculiarly rich, -dotted with numerous hamlets, which supply provisions, and even milk, -and divided into dense thickets, palm-groves, and large clearings of -manioc, holcus, and sweet potatoes, which mantle like a garment the -earth’s brown body. Here we found Kannena snugly ensconced in our -sepoy’s pal, or ridge-tent. He had privily obtained it from Said bin -Salim, with a view to add to his and his ward’s comfort and dignity. -When asked to give it up--we were lodging, I under a lug-sail, brought -from the coast and converted into an awning, and my companion in the -wretched flimsy article purchased from the Fundi--he naively refused. -Presently having seen a fat sheep, he came to me declaring that it was -his perquisite: moreover, he insisted upon receiving the goat offered to -us by the Sultan Kanoni. I at first demurred. His satisfactory rejoinder -was: “Ngema, ndugu yango!--Well, my brother,--here we remain!” I -consulted Bombay about the necessity of humouring him in every whim. -“What these jungle-niggers want,” quoth my counsel, “that they will -have, or they will see the next month’s new moon!” - -The morning of the 18th April was dark and menacing. Huge purpling -clouds deformed the face of the northern sky. Having loaded the canoes, -however, we embarked to cross the channel which separated us from the -Ubwari island. As the paddles were in hand, the crew, starting up from -their benches, landed to bring on board some forgotten manioc. My -companion remained in his boat, I in mine. Presently, hearing an unusual -uproar, I turned round and saw the sailors arming themselves, whilst the -“curtain-lion,” Khudabakhsh, was being hustled with blows, and pushed up -the little cliff by a host of black spearmen; a naked savage the while -capering about, waving the Baloch’s bare blade in one hand and its -scabbard in the other. Kannena joined majestically in the “row,” but the -peals of laughter from the mob showed no signs of anger. A Mjiji slave, -belonging to Khudabakhsh had, it appears, taken flight, after landing -unobserved with the crowd. The brave had redemanded him of Kannena, whom -he charged, moreover, with aiding and abetting the desertion. The slave -Sultan offered to refer the point to me, but the valiant man, losing -patience, out with his sword, and was instantly disarmed, assaulted, and -battered, as above described, by forty or fifty sailors. When quiet was -restored, I called to him from the boat. He replied by refusing to -“budge an inch,” and by summoning his “brother” Jelai to join him with -bag and baggage. Kannena also used soft words, till at last, weary of -waiting, he gave orders to put off, throwing two cloths to Khudabakhsh, -that the fellow might not return home hungry. I admired his generosity -till compelled to pay for it. - -The two Baloch were like mules; they disliked the voyage, and as it was -the Ramazan, they added to their discomforts by pretending to fast. -Their desertion was inexcusable; they left us wholly in the power of the -Wajiji, to dangers and difficulties which they themselves could not -endure. Prudent Orientals, I may again observe, never commit themselves -to the sole custody of Africans, even of the “Muwallid,” namely those -born and bred in their houses. In Persia the traveller is careful to mix -the black blood with that of the higher race; formerly, whenever the -member of a family was found murdered, the serviles were all tortured as -a preliminary to investigation, and many stories, like the following, -are recounted. The slaves had left their master in complete security, -and were sitting, in early night, merrily chatting round the camp fire. -Presently one began to relate the list of their grievances; another -proposed to end them by desertion; and a third seconded the motion, -opining, however, that they might as well begin by murdering the -patroon. No sooner said than done. These children of passion and -instinct, in the shortest interim, act out the “dreadful thing,” and as -readily repent when reflection returns. The Arab, therefore, in African -lands, seldom travels with Africans only; he prefers collecting as many -companions, and bringing as many hangers on as he can afford. The best -escort to a European capable of communicating with and commanding them, -would be a small party of Arabs fresh from Hazramaut and untaught in the -ways and tongues of Africa. They would by forming a kind of balance of -power, prevent that daring pilfering for which slaves are infamous; in -the long run they would save money to the explorer, and perhaps save his -life. - -Khudabakhsh and his comrade-deserter returned safely by land to Kawele; -and when derided by the other men, he repeated, as might be expected, -notable griefs. Both had performed prodigies of valour; they had however -been mastered by millions. Then they had called upon “Haji Abdullah” -for assistance, to which he had replied “My power does not extend here!” -Thus heartlessly refused aid by the only person who could and should -have afforded it, they were reduced, sorely against their will, to take -leave of him. Their tale was of course believed by their comrades, till -the crews brought back the other version of the affair, the -“camel-hearts” then once more became the laugh and jibe of man and -woman. - -After a short consultation amongst the men concerning the threatening -aspect of the heavens, it was agreed by them to defer crossing the Lake -till the next day. We therefore passed on to the northern side of the -point which limits the bay of Wafanya, and anchoring the craft in a -rushy bayou, we pitched tents in time to protect us against a violent -thunderstorm with its wind and rain. - -On the 19th April we stretched westward, towards Ubwari, which appeared -a long strip of green directly opposite Urundi, and distant from -eighteen to twenty miles. A little wind caused a heavy chopping swell; -we were wet to the skin, and as noon drew nigh, the sun shone -stingingly, reflected by a mirrory sea. At 10 A.M. the party drew in -their paddles and halted to eat and smoke. About 2 P.M. the wind and -waves again arose,--once more we were drenched, and the frail craft was -constantly baled out to prevent water-logging. A long row of nine hours -placed the canoes at a roadstead, with the usual narrow line of yellow -sand, on the western coast of Ubwari Island. The men landed to dry -themselves, and to cook some putrid fish which they had caught as it -floated past the canoe, with the reed triangle that buoyed up the net. -It was “strong meat” to us, but to them its staleness was as the “taste -in his butter,” to the Londoner, the pleasing toughness of the old cock -to the Arab, and the savoury “fumet” of the aged he-goat to the Baloch. -After a short halt, we moved a little northwards to Mzimu, a strip of -low land dividing the waters from their background of grassy rise, -through which a swampy line winds from the hills above. Here we found -canoes drawn up, and the islanders flocked from their hamlets to change -their ivory and slaves, goats and provisions, for salt and beads, wire -and cloth. The Wabwari are a peculiar, and by no means a comely race. -The men are habited in the usual mbugu, tigered with black stripes, and -tailed like leopard-skins: a wisp of fine grass acts as fillet, and -their waists, wrists, and ankles, their knob-sticks, spears, and -daggers, are bound with rattan-bark, instead of the usual wire. The -women train their frizzly locks into two side-bits resembling bear’s -ears; they tie down the bosom with a cord, apparently for the purpose of -distorting nature in a way that is most repulsive to European eyes; and -they clothe themselves with the barbarous goat-skin, or the scantiest -kilts of bark-cloth. The wives of the chiefs wear a load of brass and -bead ornaments; and, like the ladies of Wafanya, they walk about with -patriarchal staves five feet long, and knobbed at the top. - -We halted for a day at Mzimu in Ubwari, where Kannena demanded seventy -khete of blue-porcelain beads as his fee for safe conduct to the island. -Suddenly, at 6 P.M., he informed me that he must move to other quarters. -We tumbled into the boats, and after enjoying two hours of pleasant -progress with a northerly current, and a splendid moonshine, which set -off a scene at once wild and soft as any - - “That savage Rosa dashed, or learned Poussin drew,” - -we rounded the bluff northern point of the island, put into “Mtuwwa,” a -little bay on its western shore, pitched the tent, and slept at ease. - -Another halt was required on the 22nd April. The Sultan Kisesa demanded -his blackmail, which amounted to one coil-bracelet and two cloths; -provisions were hardly procurable, because his subjects wanted white -beads, with which, being at a discount at Ujiji, we had not provided -ourselves; and Kannena again successfully put in a tyrannical claim for -460 khete of blue-porcelains to purchase rations. - -On the 23rd April we left Mtuwwa, and made for the opposite or western -shore of the lake, which appeared about fifteen miles distant; the day’s -work was nine hours. The two canoes paddled far apart, there was -therefore little bumping, smoking, or quarrelling, till near our -destination. At Murivumba the malaria, the mosquitoes, the crocodiles, -and the men are equally feared. The land belongs to the Wabembe, -who are correctly described in the “Mombas Mission Map” as -“Menschenfresser--anthropophagi.” The practice arises from the savage -and apathetic nature of the people, who devour, besides man, all kinds -of carrion and vermin, grubs and insects, whilst they abandon to wild -growths a land of the richest soil and of the most prolific climate. -They prefer man raw, whereas the Wadoe of the coast eat him roasted. The -people of a village which backed the port, assembled as usual to “sow -gape-seed;” but though - - “A hungry look hung upon them all,”-- - -and amongst cannibals one always fancies oneself considered in the light -of butcher’s meat,--the poor devils, dark and stunted, timid and -degraded, appeared less dangerous to the living than to the dead. In -order to keep them quiet, the bull-headed Mabruki, shortly before dusk, -fired a charge of duck-shot into the village; ensued loud cries and -deprecations to the “Murungwana,” but happily no man was hurt. Sayfu the -melancholist preferred squatting through the night on the bow of the -canoe, to trusting his precious person on shore. We slept upon a -reed-margined spit of sand, and having neglected to pitch the tent, were -rained upon to our heart’s content. - -We left Murivumba of the man-eaters early on the morning of the 24th -April, and stood northwards along the western shore of the Lake: the -converging trend of the two coasts told that we were fast approaching -our destination. After ten hours’ paddling, halts included, we landed at -the southern frontier of Uvira, in a place called Mamaletua, Ngovi, and -many other names. Here the stream of commerce begins to set strong; the -people were comparatively civil, they cleared for us a leaky old hut -with a floor like iron,--it appeared to us a palace!--and they supplied, -at moderate prices, sheep and goats, fish-fry, eggs, and poultry, grain, -manioc and bird-pepper. - -After another long stretch of fifteen rainy and sunny hours, a high -easterly wind compelled the hard-worked crews to put into Muikamba (?) -of Uvira. A neighbouring hamlet, a few hovels built behind a thick -wind-wrung plantain-grove, backed a reed-locked creek, where the canoes -floated in safety and a strip of clean sand on which we passed the night -as pleasantly as the bright moonlight and the violent gusts would -permit. On the 26th April, a paddle of three hours and a half landed us -in the forenoon at the sandy baystand, where the trade of Uvira is -carried on. - -Great rejoicings ushered in the end of our outward-bound voyage. Crowds -gathered on the shore to gaze at the new merchants arriving at Uvira, -with the usual concert, vocal and instrumental, screams, shouts, and -songs, shaums, horns, and tom-toms. The captains of the two canoes -performed with the most solemn gravity a bear-like dance upon the -mat-covered benches, which form the “quarter-decks,” extending their -arms, pirouetting upon both heels, and springing up and squatting down -till their hams touched the mats. The crews, with a general grin which -showed all their ivories, rattled their paddles against the sides of -their canoes in token of greeting, a custom derived probably from the -ceremonious address of the Lakists, which is performed by rapping their -elbows against their ribs. Presently Majid and Bekkari, two Arab youths -sent from Ujiji by their chief, Said bin Majid, to collect ivory, came -out to meet me; they gave me, as usual, the news, and said that having -laid in the store of tusks required, they intended setting out -southwards on the morrow. We passed half the day of our arrival on the -bare landing-place, a strip of sand foully unclean, from the effect of -many bivouacs. It is open to the water and backed by the plain of Uvira; -one of the broadest of these edges of gently-inclined ground which -separate the Lake from its trough of hills. Kannena at once visited the -Mwami or Sultan Maruta, who owns a village on a neighbouring elevation; -this chief invited me to his settlement, but the outfit was running low -and the crew and party generally feared to leave their canoes. We -therefore pitched our tents upon the sand, and prepared for the last -labour, that of exploring the head of the Lake. - -We had now reached the “ne plus ultra,” the northernmost station to -which merchants have as yet been admitted. The people are generally on -bad terms with the Wavira, and in these black regions a traveller coming -direct from an enemy’s territory is always suspected of hostile -intentions,--no trifling bar to progress. Opposite us still rose, in a -high broken line, the mountains of inhospitable Urundi, apparently -prolonged beyond the northern extremity of the waters. The head, which -was not visible from the plain, is said to turn N.N. westwards, and to -terminate after a voyage of two days, which some informants, however, -reduce to six hours. The breadth of the Tanganyika is here between seven -and eight miles. On the 28th April, all my hopes--which, however, I had -hoped against hope--were rudely dashed to the ground. I received a visit -from the three stalwart sons of the Sultan Maruta: they were the noblest -type of Negroid seen near the Lake, with symmetrical heads, regular -features and pleasing countenances; their well-made limbs and athletic -frames of a shiny jet black, were displayed to advantage by their loose -aprons of red and dark-striped bark-cloth, slung, like game-bags, over -their shoulders, and were set off by opal-coloured eyeballs, teeth like -pearls, and a profusion of broad massive rings of snowy ivory round -their arms, and conical ornaments like dwarf marling-spikes of -hippopotamus tooth suspended from their necks. The subject of the -mysterious river issuing from the Lake, was at once brought forward. -They all declared that they had visited it, they offered to forward me, -but they unanimously asserted, and every man in the host of bystanders -confirmed their words, that the “Rusizi” enters into, and does not flow -out of the Tanganyika. I felt sick at heart. I had not, it is true, -undertaken to explore the Coy Fountains by this route; but the combined -assertions of the cogging Shaykh and the false Msawahili had startled -me from the proprieties of reason, and--this was the result! - -Bombay, when questioned, declared that my companion had misunderstood -the words of Hamid bin Sulayyam, who spoke of a river falling into, not -issuing _from_ the lake; and added his own conviction that the Arab had -never sailed north of Ubwari Island. Sayfu, who at Ujiji had described, -as an eye-witness, the mouth of the déversoir and its direction for two -days, now owned that he had never been beyond Uvira, and that he never -intended to do so. Briefly, I had been deceived by a strange coincidence -of deceit. - -On the 28th April, we were driven from the strip of land which we -originally occupied by a S. E. gale; here a “blat,” or small hurricane, -which drives the foaming waters of the tideless sea up to the green -margin of the land. Retiring higher up where the canoes were careened, -we spread our bedding on the little muddy mounds that rise a few inches -above the surface of grass-closed gutter which drains off the showers -daily falling amongst the hills. I was still obliged to content myself -with the lug-sail, thrown over a ridge-pole supported by two bamboo -uprights, and pegged out like a tent below; it was too short to fall -over the ends and to reach the ground, it was therefore a place of -passage for mizzle, splash, and draught of watery wind. My companion -inhabited the tent bought from the Fundi, it was thoroughly rotted, -during his first trip across the Lake--by leakage in the boat, and by -being “bushed” with mud instead of pegs on shore. He informed me that -there was “good grub” at Uvira, and that was nearly the full amount of -what I heard from or of him. Our crews had hutted themselves in the -dense mass of grass near our tents; they lived as it were under arms, -and nothing would induce them to venture away from their only escape, -the canoes, which stood ready for launching whenever required. Sayfu -swore that he would return to Ujiji rather than venture a few yards -inland to buy milk, whilst Bombay and Mabrukí, who ever laboured under -the idea that every brother-African of the jungle thirsted for their -blood, upon the principle that wild birds hate tame birds, became, when -the task was proposed to them, almost mutinous. Our nine days’ halt at -Uvira had therefore unusual discomforts. The air, however, though damp -and raw, with gust, storm, and rain, must have been pure in the extreme; -appetite and sleep--except when the bull-frogs were “making a night of -it”--were rarely wanting, and provisions were good, cheap, and abundant. - -I still hoped, however, to lay down the extreme limits of the lake -northwards. Majid and Bekkari the Arab agents of Said bin Majid, replied -to the offer of an exorbitant sum, that they would not undertake the -task for ten times that amount. The sons of Maruta had volunteered their -escort; when I wanted to close with them, they drew off. Kannena, when -summoned to perform his promise and reminded of the hire that he had -received, jumped up and ran out of the tent: afterwards at Ujiji he -declared that he had been willing to go, but that his crews were -unanimous in declining to risk their lives,--which was perhaps true. -Towards the end of the halt I suffered so severely from ulceration of -the tongue, that articulation was nearly impossible, and this was a -complete stopper to progress. It is a characteristic of African travel -that the explorer may be arrested at the very bourne of his journey, on -the very threshold of success, by a single stage, as effectually as if -all the waves of the Atlantic or the sands of Arabia lay between. - -Maruta and his family of young giants did not fail to claim their -blackmail; they received a total of twelve cloths, five kitindi, and -thirty khete of coral beads. They returned two fine goats, here worth -about one cloth each, and sundry large gourds of fresh milk--the only -food I could then manage to swallow. Kannena, who had been living at -Maruta’s village, came down on the 5th May to demand 460 khete of blue -porcelains, wherewith to buy rations for the return-voyage. Being -heavily in debt, all his salt and coil-bracelets had barely sufficed for -his liabilities: he had nothing to show for them but masses of -Sambo--iron-wire rings--which made his ankles resemble those of a young -hippopotamus. The slaves and all the fine tusks that came on board were -the property of the crew. - -Our departure from Uvira was finally settled for the 6th May: before -taking leave of our “furthest point,” I will offer a few details -concerning the commerce of the place. - -Uvira is much frequented on account of its cheapness; it is the great -northern depôt for slaves, ivory, grain, bark-cloth, and ironware, and, -in the season, hardly a day elapses without canoes coming in for -merchandise or provisions. The imports are the kitindi, salt, beads, -tobacco, and cotton cloth. Rice does not grow there, holcus and maize -are sold at one to two fundo of common beads per masuta or small -load,--perhaps sixteen pounds,--and one khete is sufficient during the -months of plenty to purchase five pounds of manioc, or two and even -three fowls. Plantains of the large and coarse variety are common and -cheap, and one cloth is given for two goodly earthen pots full of -palm-oil. Ivory fetches its weight in brass wire: here the merchant -expects for every 1000 dollars of outfit to receive 100 farasilah (3500 -lbs.) of large tusks, and his profit would be great were it not -counterbalanced by the risk and by the expense of transport. The prices -in the slave-mart greatly fluctuate. When business is dull, boys under -ten years may be bought for four cloths and five fundo of white and blue -porcelains, girls for six shukkah, and as a rule at these remote places, -as Uvira, Ujipa, and Marungu, slaves are cheaper than in the market of -Ujiji. Adults fetch no price, they are notoriously intractable, and -addicted to desertion. Bark-cloths, generally in the market, vary from -one to three khete of coral beads. The principal industry of the Wavira -is ironware, the material for which is dug in the lands lying at a -little distance westward of the lake. The hoes, dudgeons, and small -hatchets, here cost half their usual price at Ujiji. The people also -make neat baskets and panniers, not unlike those of Normandy, and pretty -bowls cut out of various soft woods, light and dark: the latter are also -found, though rarely, at Ujiji and in the western islets. - -A gale appeared to be brewing in the north--here the place of -storms--and the crews, fearing wind and water, in the afternoon insisted -upon launching their canoes and putting out to sea at 10 A.M. on the 6th -May. After touching at the stages before described, Muikamba, Ngovi and -Murivumba of the anthropophagi, we crossed without other accidents but -those of weather--the rainy monsoon was in its last convulsions--the -western branch or supplementary channel separating the Lake from the -island of Ubwari. Before anchoring at Mzimu, our former halting-place, -we landed at a steep ghaut, where the crews swarmed up a ladder of rock, -and presently returned back with pots of the palm-oil, for which this -is the principal depôt. - -On the 10th May the sky was dull and gloomy, the wind was hushed, the -“rain-sun” burnt with a sickly and painful heat; the air was still and -sultry, stifling and surcharged, while the glimmerings of lurid -lightning and low mutterings from the sable cloud-banks lying upon the -northern horizon, cut by light masses of mist in a long unbroken line, -and from the black arch rising above the Acroceraurian hills to the -west, disturbed at times the death-like silence. Even the gulls on the -beach forefelt a storm. I suggested a halt, but the crews were now in a -nervous hurry to reach their homes,--impatience mastered even _their_ -prudence. - -We left Mzimu at sunset, and for two hours coasted along the shore. It -was one of those portentous evenings of the tropics--a calm before a -tempest--unnaturally quiet; we struck out, however, boldly towards the -eastern shore of the Tanganyika, and the western mountains rapidly -lessened on the view. Before, however, we reached the mid-channel, a -cold gust--in these regions the invariable presage of a storm--swept -through the deepening shades cast by the heavy rolling clouds, and the -vivid nimble lightning flashed, at first by intervals, then incessantly, -with a ghastly and blinding glow, illuminating the “vast of night,” and -followed by a palpable obscure, and a pitchy darkness, that weighed upon -the sight. As terrible was its accompaniment of rushing, reverberating -thunder, now a loud roar, peal upon peal, like the booming of heavy -batteries, then breaking into a sudden crash, which was presently -followed by a rattling discharge like the sharp pattering of musketry. -The bundles of spears planted upright amidships, like paratonnerres, -seemed to invite the electric fluid into the canoes. The waves began to -rise, the rain descended, at first in warning-drops, then in torrents, -and had the wind steadily arisen, the cockle-shell craft never could -have lived through the short, chopping sea which characterises the -Tanganyika in heavy weather. The crew, though blinded by the showers, -and frightened by the occasional gusts, held their own gallantly enough; -at times, however, the moaning cry, “O my wife!” showed what was going -on within. Bombay, a noted Voltairian in fine weather, spent the length -of that wild night in reminiscences of prayer. I sheltered myself from -the storm under my best friend, the Mackintosh, and thought of the -far-famed couplet of Hafiz,--with its mystic meaning I will not trouble -the reader:-- - - “This collied night, these horrid waves, these gusts that sweep the - whirling deep! - What reck they of our evil plight, who on the shore securely sleep?” - -Fortunately the rain beat down wind and sea, otherwise nothing short of -a miracle could have preserved us for a dry death. - -That night, however, was the last of our “sea-sorrows.” After floating -about during the latter hours of darkness, under the land, but uncertain -where to disembark, we made at 7 A.M., on the 11th May, Wafanya, our -former station in ill-famed Urundi. Tired and cramped by the night’s -work, we pitched tents, and escaping from the gaze of the insolent and -intrusive crowd, we retired to spend a few hours in sleep. - -I was suddenly aroused by Mabruki, who, rushing into the tent, thrust my -sword into my hands, and exclaimed that the crews were scrambling into -their boats. I went out and found everything in dire confusion. The -sailors hurrying here and there, were embarking their mats and -cooking-pots, some were in violent parley with Kannena, whilst a little -knot was carrying a man, mortally wounded, down to the waters of the -Lake. I saw at once that the affair was dangerous. On these occasions -the Wajiji, whose first impulse is ever flight, rush for safety to their -boats and push off, little heeding whom or what they leave behind. We -therefore hurried in without delay. - -When both crews had embarked, and no enemy appeared, Kannena persuaded -them to reland, and proving to them their superior force, induced them -to demand, at the arrow’s point, satisfaction of Kanoni, the chief, for -the outrage committed by his subjects. During our sleep a drunken -man--almost all these disturbances arise from fellows who have the “_vin -méchant_”--had rushed from the crowd of Warundi, and, knobstick in hand, -had commenced dealing blows in all directions. Ensued a general mêlée. -Bombay, when struck, called to the crews to arm. The Goanese, Valentine, -being fear-crazed, seized my large “Colt” and probably fired it into the -crowd; at all events, the cone struck one of our own men below the right -pap, and came out two inches to the right of the backbone. Fortunately -for us he was a slave, otherwise the situation would have been -desperate. As it was, the crowd became violently excited, one man drew -his dagger upon Valentine, and with difficulty I dissuaded Kannena from -killing him. As the crew had ever an eye to the “main chance,” food, -they at once confiscated three goats, our store for the return voyage, -cut their throats, and spitted the meat upon their spears:--thus the -lamb died and the wolf dined, and the innocent suffered and the -plunderer was joyed, the strong showed his strength and the weak his -weakness, according to the usual formula of this sublunary world. - -Whilst Kannena was absent, on martial purposes intent, I visited the -sole sufferer in the fray, and after seeing his wound washed, I forbade -his friends to knead the injured muscles, as they were doing, and to -wrench his right arm from side to side. A cathartic seemed to have a -beneficial effect. On the second day of his accident he was able to -rise. But these occurrences in wild countries always cause long -troubles. Kannena, who obtained from Sultan Kanoni, as blood-money, a -small girl and a large sheep, declared that the man might die, and -insisted upon my forthwith depositing, in case of such contingency, -eight cloths, which, should the wound not prove fatal, would be -returned. The latter clause might have been omitted; in these lands, -_nescit_ cloth _missa reverti_. As we were about to leave Ujiji, Kannena -claimed for the man’s subsistence forty cloths,--or as equivalent, three -slaves and six cloths--which also it was necessary to pay. A report was -afterwards spread that the wretch had sunk under his wound. Valentine -heard the intelligence with all that philosophy which distinguishes his -race when mishaps occur to any but self. His prowess, however, cost me -forty-eight dollars, here worth at least £100 in England. Still I had -reason to congratulate myself that matters had not been worse. Had the -victim been a Mjiji freeman, the trouble, annoyances, and expense would -have been interminable. Had he been a Mrundi, we should have been -compelled to fight our way, through a shower of arrows, to the boats; -war would have extended to Ujiji, and “England,” as usual, would have -had to pay the expenses. When Said bin Salim heard at Kazeh a distorted -account of this mishap--of course it was reported that “Haji Abdullah” -killed the man--he hit upon a notable device. Lurinda, the headman of -Gungu, had often begged the Arab to enter into “blood-brotherhood” with -him, and this had Said bin Salim pertinaciously refused, on religious -grounds, to do. When informed that battle and murder were in the wind, -he at once made fraternity with Lurinda, hoping to derive protection -from his spear. His terrors afterwards persuaded him to do the same with -Kannena: indeed at that time he would have hailed a slave as “Ndugu -yango!” (my brother!) - -When Kannena returned successful from his visit to Kanoni, we prepared -to leave Wafanya. The fierce rain and the nightly drizzle detained us, -however, till the next morning. On the 11th May we paddled round the -southern point of Wafanya Bay to Makimoni, a little grassy inlet, where -the canoes were defended from the heavy surf. - -After this all was easy. We rattled paddles on the 12th May, as we -entered our “patrie,” Nyasanga. The next night was spent in Bangwe Bay. -We were too proud to sneak home in the dark; we had done something -deserving a Certain Cross, we were heroes, braves of braves; we wanted -to be looked at by the fair, to be howled at by the valiant. Early on -the morning of the 13th May we appeared with shots, shouts, and a -shocking noise, at the reed-lined gap of sand that forms the ghaut of -Kawele. It was truly a triumphal entrance. All the people of that -country-side had collected to welcome the crew, women and children, as -well as men, pressed waist-deep into the water to receive friend and -relative with becoming affection:--the gestures, the clamour, and the -other peculiarities of the excited mob I must really leave to the -reader’s imagination; the memory is too much for me. - -But true merit is always modest; it aspires to Honor, not honours. The -Wagungu, or whites, were repeatedly “called for.” I broke, however, -through the sudant, strident, hircine throng, and regaining, with the -aid of Riza’s strong arm, the old Tembe, was salaamed to by the -expectant Said bid Salim and the Jemadar. It felt like a return home. -But I had left, before my departure, with my Arab chargé-d’affaires, -four small loads of cloth, and on inspecting the supplies there remained -only ten shukkah. I naturally inquired what had become of the 110 -others, which had thus prematurely disappeared. Said bin Salim replied -by showing a small pile of grain-bags, and by informing me that he had -hired twenty porters for the down-march. He volunteered, it is true, in -case I felt disposed to finish the Periplus of the Lake, to return to -Kazeh and to superintend the transmission of our reserve supplies; as, -however, he at the same time gave me to understand that he could not -escort them back to Ujiji, I thanked him for his offer, and declined it. - -We had expended upwards of a month--from the 10th April to the 13th May, -1858--in this voyage fifteen days outward bound, nine at Uvira, and nine -in returning. The boating was rather a severe trial. We had no means of -resting the back; the holds of the canoes, besides being knee-deep in -water, were disgracefully crowded;--they had been appropriated to us and -our four servants by Kannena, but by degrees, he introduced in addition -to the sticks, spears, broken vases, pots, and gourds, a goat, two or -three small boys, one or two sick sailors, the little slave-girl and the -large sheep. The canoes were top-heavy with the number of their crew, -and the shipping of many seas spoilt our tents, and besides, wetted our -salt, and soddened our grain and flour; the gunpowder was damaged, and -the guns were honeycombed with rust. Besides the splashing of the -paddles and the dashing of waves, heavy showers fell almost every day -and night, and the intervals were bursts of burning sunshine. - -The discomfort of the halt was not less than that of the boat. At first -we pitched tents near the villages, in tall, fetid grass, upon ground -never level, where stones were the succedanea for tent-pegs stolen for -fuel, and where we slept literally upon mire. The temperature inside was -ever in extremes, now a raw rainy cold, then a steam-bath that damped us -like an April shower. The villagers, especially in the remoter -districts, were even more troublesome, noisy, and inquisitive, than the -Wagogo. A “notable passion of wonder” appeared in them. We felt like -baited bears: we were mobbed in a moment, and scrutinised from every -point of view by them; the inquisitive wretches stood on tiptoe, they -squatted on their hams, they bent sideways, they thrust forth their -necks like hissing geese to vary the prospect. Their eyes, “glaring -lightning-like out of their heads,” as old Homer hath it, seemed to -devour us; in the ecstasy of curiosity they shifted from one Muzungu to -his “brother,” till, like the well-known ass between the two bundles of -hay, they could not enjoy either. They were pertinacious as flies, to -drive them away was only to invite a return; whilst, worst grief of all, -the women were plain, and their grotesque salutations resembled the -“encounter of two dog-apes.” The Goanese were almost equally honoured, -and the operation of cooking was looked upon as a miracle. At last my -experience in staring enabled me to categorise the infliction as -follows. Firstly, is the stare furtive, when the starer would peep and -peer under the tent, and its reverse, the stare open. Thirdly, is the -stare curious or intelligent, which, generally accompanied with -irreverent laughter regarding our appearance. Fourthly, is the stare -stupid, which denoted the hebete incurious savage. The stare discreet is -that of sultans and great men; the stare indiscreet at unusual seasons -is affected by women and children. Sixthly, is the stare flattering--it -was exceedingly rare, and equally so was the stare contemptuous. -Eighthly, is the stare greedy; it was denoted by the eyes restlessly -bounding from one object to another, never tired, never satisfied. -Ninthly, is the stare peremptory and pertinacious, peculiar to crabbed -age. The dozen concludes with the stare drunken, the stare fierce or -pugnacious, and finally the stare cannibal, which apparently considered -us as articles of diet. At last, weary of the stare by day, and the tent -by night, I preferred inhabiting a bundle of clothes in the wet hold of -the canoe; this, at least, saved the trouble of wading through the -water, of scrambling over the stern, and of making a way between the two -close lines of grumbling and surly blacks that manned the -paddle-benches; whenever, after a meaningless halt, some individual -thought proper to scream out “Safári!” (journey!) - -Curious to say, despite all these discomforts our health palpably -improved. My companion, though still uncomfortably deaf, was almost -cured of his blindness. When that ulcerated mouth, which rendered it -necessary for me to live by suction--generally milk and water--for -seventeen days, had returned to its usual state, my strength gradually -increased. Although my feet were still swollen by the perpetual wet and -by the painful funza or entozoon, my hands partially lost their -numbness, and the fingers which before could hold the pen only for a few -minutes were once more able freely to write and sketch. In fact, I date -a slow but sensible progress towards a complete recovery of health from -the days and nights spent in the canoe and upon the mud of the -Tanganyika Lake. Perhaps mind had also acted upon matter; the object of -my mission was now effected, and this thought enabled me to cast off the -burden of grinding care with which the imminent prospect of a failure -had before sorely laden me. - -The rainy monsoon broke up on the 14th May, the day after my return to -Kawele, and once more, after six months of incessant storm-wind and -rain, clouds and mists, we had fine, cool mornings, clear warm sun, and -deliciously cold nights. The climate became truly enjoyable, but the -scenery somewhat lost its earlier attractions. The faultless, regular, -and uniform beauty, and the deep stillness of this evergreen land did -not fail to produce that strange, inexplicable melancholy of which most -travellers in tropical countries complain. In this Nature all is -beautiful that meets the eye, all is soft that affects the senses; but -she is a Siren whose pleasures soon pall upon the enjoyer. The mind, -enfeebled perhaps by an enervating climate, is fatigued and wearied by -the monotony of the charms which haunt it; cloyed with costly fare, it -sighs for the rare simplicity of the desert. I have never felt this -sadness in Egypt and Arabia, and was never without it in India and -Zanzibar. - -Our outfit, as I have observed, had been reduced to a minimum. Not a -word from Snay bin Amir, my agent at Kazeh, had arrived in reply to my -many missives, and old Want began to stare at us with the stare -peremptory. “Wealth,” say the Arabs, “hath one devil, poverty a dozen,” -and nowhere might a caravan more easily starve than in rich and fertile -Central Africa. Travellers are agreed that in these countries “baggage -is life:” the heartless and inhospitable race will not give a handful of -grain without return, and to use the Moslem phrase, “Allah pity him who -must beg of a beggar!” As usual on such occasions, the Baloch began to -clamour for more rations--they received two cloths per diem--and to -demand a bullock wherewith to celebrate their Eed or greater Festival. -There were several Arab merchants at Kawele, but they had exhausted -their stock in purchasing slaves and ivory. None in fact were so rich as -ourselves, and we were reduced to ten shukkah, ten fundo of coral beads, -and one load of black porcelains, which were perfectly useless. With -this pittance we had to engage hammals for the hammock, to feed -seventy-five mouths, and to fee several Sultans; in fact, to incur the -heavy expenses of marching back 260 miles to Unyanyembe. - -Still, with an enviable development of Hope, Said bin Salim determined -that we should reach Kazeh unfamished. We made the necessary -preparations for the journey, patched tents and umbrella, had a grand -washing and scouring day, mended the portmanteaus, and ground the grain -required for a month’s march, hired four porters for the manchil, -distributed ammunition to Said bin Salim and the Baloch, who at once -invested it in slaves, and exchanged with Said bin Majid several pounds -of lead for palm-oil, which would be an economy at the Malagarazi Ferry. -For some days past rumours had reached here that a large caravan of -Wanyamwazi porters, commanded by an Arab merchant, was approaching -Kawele. I was not sanguine enough to expose myself to another -disappointment. Suddenly on the 22d May, frequent musket shots announced -the arrival of strangers, and at noon the Tembe was surrounded with -boxes and bales, porters, slaves, and four “sons of Ramji,” Mbaruko, -Sangora, Khamisi, and Shehe. Shahdad the Baloch, who had been left -behind at Kazeh in love, and in attendance upon his “brother,” Ismail, -who presently died, had charge of a parcel of papers and letters from -Europe, India, and Zanzibar. They were the first received after nearly -eleven months, and of course they brought with them evil tidings,--the -Indian mutinies. _En revanche_, I had a kindly letter from M. Cochet, -Consul of France, and from Mr. Mansfield, of the U.S., who supplied me -with the local news, and added for my edification a very “low-church” -Tract, the first of the family, I opine, that has yet presented itself -in Central Africa. Mr. Frost reported that he had sent at once a letter -apprising me of Lieut.-Colonel Hamaton’s death, and had forwarded the -medical supplies for which I indented from K’hutu: these, as has been -explained, had not reached me. Snay bin Amir also informed me that he -had retained all the packages for which he could find no porters; that -three boxes had been stolen from his “godown;” and finally, that the -second supply, 400 dollars-worth of cloth and beads, for which I had -written at Inenge and had re-written at Ugogo and other places, was -hourly expected to arrive. - -This was an unexpected good fortune, happening at a crisis when it was -really wanted. My joy was somewhat damped by inspecting the packs of the -fifteen porters. Twelve were laden with ammunition which was not wanted, -and with munitions _de bouche_, which were: nearly half the bottles of -curry-powder, spices, and cognac were broken, tea, coffee, and sugar, -had been squeezed out of their tin canisters, and much of the rice and -coffee had disappeared. The three remaining loads were one of American -domestics,--sixty shukkahs--and the rest contained fifteen -coral-bracelets and white beads. All were the refuse of their kind: the -good Hindoos at Zanzibar had seized this opportunity to dispose of their -flimsy, damaged, and unsaleable articles. This outfit was sufficient to -carry us comfortably to Unyanyembe. I saw, however, with regret that it -was wholly inadequate for the purpose of exploring the two southern -thirds of the Tanganyika Lake, much less for returning to Zanzibar, -_viâ_ the Nyassa or Maravi Lake, and Kilwa, as I had once dreamed. - -I received several visits from our old companion, Muhinna bin Sulayman -of Kazeh, and three men of his party. He did not fail to improve the -fact of his having brought up my supplies in the nick of time. He -required five coil-bracelets and sixteen pounds of beads as my share of -the toll taken from him by the Lord of the Malagarazi Ferry. For the -remaining fifteen coil-bracelets he gave me forty cloths, and for the -load and a half of white beads he exchanged 880 strings of blue -porcelains--a commercial operation by which he cleared without trouble -35 per cent. Encouraged by my facility, he proposed to me the propriety -of paying part of the kuhonga or blackmail claimed from new comers by -Rusimba and Kannena. But facility has its limits: I quietly objected, -and we parted on the best of terms. - -[Illustration: A Mnyamwezi. - -A Mjiji. - -Mugungu Mbaya, “the wicked white man.” - -A Mgogo. - -Ferry Boat on the Malagarazi River. - -A Mzaramo.] - - - - -CHAP. XV. - -THE TANGANYIKA LAKE AND ITS PERIPLUS. - - -The Tanganyika Lake, though situated in the unexplored centre of -Intertropical Africa, and until 1858 unvisited by Europeans, has a -traditionary history of its own, extending through more than three -centuries. - -“Accounts of a great sea in the interior of Africa obtained (partially -from native travellers) at Congo and Sofala,” reached the Portuguese -settlements on both shores of the continent.[6] The details of de -Barros (first printed in 1852), whilst affording substantially correct -details, such as the length of the Lake--100 leagues--the capability of -navigation, and the one large island--Ubwari--are curiously intermingled -with the errors of theoretical conclusion. Subsequently Pigafetta -(1591), writing upon the authority of Portuguese inquirers, affirms that -there is but one lake (the N’yassa) on the confines of Angola and -Monomotapa, but that there are two lakes (the Nyassa and the -Tanganyika), not lying east and west, as was supposed by Ptolemy of -Alexandria, but north and south of each other, and about 400 miles -asunder, which give birth to the Nile. From that epoch dates the origin -of our modern misconceptions concerning the Lake Region of Central -Intertropical Africa. The Nyassa and the Tanganyika were now blended, -then separated, according to the theories or the information of the -geographer; no explorer ventured to raise from the land of mystery the -veil that invested it; and the “Mombas Mission” added the colophon by -confounding, with the old confusion, the Nyanza or Ukerewe, a third -lake, of which they had heard at Mombasah and elsewhere. It is not -wonderful then that Dr. Vincent suspected the existence or the place of -the Central Lake, or that the more ignorant popularizers of knowledge -confounded the waters of the Nyassa and the Ngami.[7] - - [6] Mr. Cooley’s ‘Memoir on the Geography of N’yassi,’ p. 1. (Vol. XV. - of 1845, Journal of the Royal Geographical Society.) The extracts from - Portuguese history in the text are entirely taken from that learned - paper, which in describing actualities wanted nothing but a solid - foundation of data. The geographer’s principal informant in 1834 was - one “Khamisi bin Tani,” civilised into “Khamis bin Osman,” a Msawahili - of Lamu who having visited the Nyassa, Maravi or Kilwa Lake, pretended - that he had travelled to the Tanganyika Lake. I cannot allow this - opportunity to pass without expressing my gratitude to Mr. Cooley for - his courtesy in supplying me with references and other information. - - [7] In the ‘Westminster Review’ (New Series, No. XX.) occurs the - following passage, which sufficiently illustrates the assertion in the - text; the critic is discussing Mr. C. Andersson’s ‘Lake Ngami,’ &c. - &c. (London, 1856):--“African missionaries, penetrating some little - distance inland from the S.E., recently brought information, which - they received second-hand from Arab travellers, of a vast fresh-water - lake far in the interior, described as being of enormous - dimensions--as nothing less than a great inland sea. Frequenters of - the Geographical Society’s meetings in Whitehall-place have observed - in consequence, on the site which used to be marked in the maps as a - sandy desert, a blue spot, about the size of the Caspian, and the - shape of a hideous inflated leech. We trusted that a more accurate - survey would correct the extreme frightfulness of the supposed form. - Mr. Andersson has spared us further excitement. The lake turns out to - be a mirage--a mythus with the smallest conceivable nucleus of fact. - On the very spot occupied by this great blue leech--long. E. from - Greenwich 23° and lat. S. 20° 21′--he found a small speck of bitter - water, something more than twenty miles across, or the size of Lake - Corrib in Galway. So perishes a phantom which has excited London - geographers for a whole season.” - - Had the learned reviewer used his eyes or his judgment in - Whitehall-place, he would not thus have confounded the hypothetic sea - of the ‘Mombas Mission Map’--a reservoir made to include the three - several waters of Nyanza, Tanganyika, and Nyassa--in E. long. 24°-29°, - and _S. lat._ 0° 13′--with the little Ngami explored by Dr. - Livingstone and a party of friends in August, 1849, and placed by him - in E. long. 23°, and in _S. lat._ 20° 20′ 21′. The nearest points of - the two waters are separated by an interval, in round numbers, of 700 - miles. - -The earliest name given by theoretical writers to the hypothetical -single lake appears to have been Zembére, Zémbere, Zambre, Zambri, or -Zembre, probably a corruption or dialectic variety of Zambesi, that -river being supposed, like the Nile, the Zaire, the Manisa, and others, -to be derived from it. The word Moravi or Maravi, which still deforms -our maps, is the name of a large tribe or a lordly race like the -Wahinda, dwelling to the south-east and south-west of the Nyassa. In the -seventeenth century Luigi Mariano, a missioner residing at the Rios de -Sena, calls the Central Sea the Lake of Hemosura; his description -however applies to the Nyassa, Maravi or Kilwa Lake, and the word is -probably a corruption of Rusuro or Lusuro, which in the language of -Uhiao signifies a river or flowing water. In the ‘Mombas Mission Map’ -the lake is called “See von Uniamesi,” a mere misnomer, as it is -separated by hundreds of miles from the Land of the Moon: the northern -part is termed Ukerewe, by a confusion with the Nyanza Lake and the -southern N’hánjá, for Nyassa, the old Maravi water near Kilwa. It is not -a little curious, however, that Messrs. Cooley and Macqueen should both -have recorded the vernacular name of the northern Lake Tangenyika, so -unaccountably omitted from the ‘Mombas Mission Map.’ The words -Tanganyenka and Tanganyenko used by Dr. Livingstone, who in places -appears to confound the Lake with the Nyanza and the Nyassa, are -palpable mispronunciations. - -The African name for the central lake is Tanganyika, signifying an -anastomosis, or a meeting place (sc. of waters,) from ku tanganyika, the -popular word, to join, or meet together: the initial t being changed to -ch--ku changanyika for ku tanganyika--in the lingua Franca of Zanzibar -doubtless gave rise to Mr. Cooley’s “Zanganyika.” The word Tanganyika is -universally used by the Wajiji and other tribes near and upon the Lake. -The Arabs and African strangers, when speaking loosely of it, call it -indifferently the Bahari or Sea, the Ziwa or Pond, and even the Mtoni or -River. The “Sea of Ujiji” would, after the fashion of Easterns, be -limited to the waters in the neighbourhood of that principal depot. - -The Tanganyika occupies the centre of the length of the African -continent, which extends from 32° N. to 33° S. latitude, and it lies on -the western extremity of the eastern third of the breadth. Its general -direction is parallel to the inner African line of volcanic action drawn -from Gondar southwards through the regions about Kilima-ngáo -(Kilimanjáro) to Mount Njesa, the eastern wall of the Nyassa Lake. The -general formation suggests, as in the case of the Dead Sea, the idea of -a volcano of depression--not, like the Nyanza or Ukerewe, a vast -reservoir formed by the drainage of mountains. Judging from the eye, the -walls of this basin rise in an almost continuous curtain, rarely waving -and infracted to 2,000 or 3,000 feet above the water-level. The lower -slopes are well wooded: upon the higher summits large trees are said not -to grow; the deficiency of soil, and the prevalence of high fierce winds -would account for the phenomena. The lay is almost due north and south, -and the form a long oval, widening in the central portions and -contracting systematically at both extremities. The length of the bed -was thus calculated: From Ujiji (in S. lat. 4° 55′) to Uvira (in S. lat. -3° 25′), where the narrowing of the breadth evidences approach to the -northern head, was found by exploration a direct distance of 1° 30′ = 90 -miles, which, allowing for the interval between Uvira and the river -Rusizi, that forms the northernmost limit, may be increased to 100 -rectilinear geographical miles. According to the Arab voyagers, who have -frequently rounded the lake Ujiji in eight stages from the northern, and -twelve from the southern, end of the lake, the extent from Ujiji to the -Marungu River, therefore, is roughly computed at 150 miles. The total of -length, from Uvira, in S. lat. 30° 25′, to Marungu, in S. lat. 7° 20′, -would then be somewhat less than 250 rectilinear geographical miles. -About Ujiji the water appears to vary in breadth from 30 to 35 miles, -but the serpentine form of the banks, with a succession of serrations -and indentations of salient and re-entering angles--some jutting far and -irregularly into the bed--render the estimate of average difficult. The -Arabs agree in correctly stating, that opposite Ujiji the shortest -breadth of the lake is about equal to the channel which divides Zanzibar -from the mainland, or between 23 and 24 miles. At Uvira the breadth -narrows to eight miles. Assuming, therefore, the total length at 250, -and the main breadth at 20, geographical miles, the circumference of the -Tanganyika would represent, in round numbers, a total of 550 miles; the -superficial area, which seems to vary little, covers about 5,000 square -miles; and the drainage from the beginning of the great Central African -depression in Unyamwezi, in E. long. 33° 58′, numbers from the eastward -about 240 miles. - -By B. P. thermometer the altitude of the Tanganyika is 1850 feet above -the sea-level, and about 2000 feet below the adjacent plateau of -Unyamwezi and the Nyanza, or northern lake. This difference of level, -even did not high-hill ranges intervene, would preclude the possibility -of that connection between the waters which the Arabs, by a conjecture -natural to inexpert geographers, have maintained to the confusion of the -learned. The topographical situation of the Tanganyika is thus the -centre of a deep synclical depression in the continent, a long -narrow trough in the southern spurs of Urundi, which, with its -mountain-neighbour Karagwah, situated upon the equator, represents the -Inner African portion of the Lunar Mountains. It may be observed that -the parallel of the northern extremity of the Tanganyika nearly -corresponds with the southern creek of the Nyanza, and that they are -separated by an arc of the meridian of about 343 miles. - -The water of the Tanganyika appears deliciously sweet and pure after the -salt and bitter, the putrid and slimy produce of the wells, pits, and -pools on the line of march. The people, however, who drink it willingly -when afloat, prefer, when on shore, the little springs which bubble from -its banks. They complain that it does not satisfy thirst, and contrast -it unfavourably with the waters of its rival the Nyanza: it appears -moreover, to corrode metal and leather with exceptional power. The -colour of the pure and transparent mass has apparently two normal -varieties: a dull sea-green--never, however, verdigris-coloured, as in -the shoals of the Zanzibar seas, where the reflected blue of the -atmosphere blends with the yellow of the sandy bottom; the other, a -clear, soft blue--by day rarely deep and dark, like the ultramarine of -the Mediterranean, but resembling the light and milky tints of tropical -seas. Under a strong wind the waves soon rise in yeasty lines, foaming -up from a turbid greenish surface, and the aspect becomes menacing in -the extreme. - -It was found impracticable to take soundings of the Tanganyika: the -Arabs, however, agreed in asserting that with lines of several fathoms -they found bottom only near the shores. The shingly sole shelves -rapidly, without steps or overfalls, into blue water. Judging from the -eye, the bottom is sandy and profusely strewn with worn pebbles. Reefs -and washes were observed near the shores; it is impossible to form an -idea of their position or extent, as the crews confine themselves to a -few well-known lines, from which they cannot be persuaded to diverge. No -shoals or shallows were seen at a distance from the coasts, and though -islets are not unfrequent upon the margin, only one was observed or -heard of near the centre. - -The affluents of this lake are neither sufficiently numerous nor -considerable to alter by sedimentary deposit the depth or the shape of -the bed. The borders are generally low: a thick fringe of rush and reed, -obviating erosion by the element, conceals the watery margin. Where the -currents beat, they cut out a short and narrow strip of quartzose sand, -profusely strewn with large shingle, gravel, comminuted shells, and -marine exuviæ, with a fringe of drift formed by the joint action of wind -and wave. Beyond this is a shelving plain--the principal locality for -cultivation and settlements. In some parts it is a hard clay -conglomerate; in others, a rich red loam, apparently stained with oxide -of iron; and in others sandy, but everywhere coated with the thickest -vegetation extending up to the background of mountains. The coast is -here and there bluff, with miniature cliffs and headlands, whose -formation is of sandstone strata tilted, broken, and distorted, or small -blocks imbedded in indurated reddish earth. From the water appeared -piles of a dark stone resembling angular basalt, and amongst the -rock-crevices the people find the float-clay, or mountain meal, with -which they decorate their persons and the sterns of their canoes. The -uncultivated hill summits produce various cactaceæ; the sides are -clothed with giant trees, the mvule, the tamarind, and the bauhinia. On -the declines, more precipitous than the Swiss terraces, manioc and -cereals grow luxuriantly, whilst the lowest levels are dark with groves -of plantains and Guinea-palms. - -A careful investigation and comparison of statements leads to the belief -that the Tanganyika receives and absorbs the whole river-system--the -net-work of streams, nullahs, and torrents--of that portion of the -Central African depression whose water-shed converges towards the great -reservoir. Geographers will doubt that such a mass, situated at so -considerable an altitude, can maintain its level without an effluent. -Moreover, the freshness of the water would, under normal circumstances, -argue the escape of saline matter washed down by the influents from the -area of drainage. But may not the Tanganyika, situated, like the Dead -Sea, as a reservoir for supplying with humidity the winds which have -parted with their moisture in the barren and arid regions of the south, -maintain its general level by the exact balance of supply and -evaporation? And may not the saline particles deposited in its waters be -wanting in some constituent which renders them evident to the taste? One -point concerning the versant has been proved by these pages, namely, -that the Tanganyika cannot be drained eastward by rents in a subtending -mountain ridge, as was supposed by Dr. Livingstone from an -indiscriminately applied analogy with the ancient head-basin of the -Zambezi. Dr. Livingstone (chap. xxiv. xxvi. et passim) informs his -readers, from report of the Arabs, that the Tanganyika is a large -shallow body of water; in fact, the residuum of a mass anciently much -more extensive. This, however, is not and cannot be the case. In -theorising upon the eastern versant and drainage of the Tanganyika, Dr. -Livingstone seems to have been misled by having observed that the vast -inland sea of geological ages, of which Lake Ngami and its neighbour -Kumadau are now the principal remains, had been desiccated by cracks and -fissures, caused in the subtending soils by earthquakes and sudden -upheavals, which thus opened for the waters an exit into the Indian -Ocean. This may have happened to the Nyassa, or Southern Lake; it must -not, however, be generalized and extended to the Nyanza and the -Tanganyika. - -As in Zanzibar, there is little variety of temperature upon the -Tanganyika. The violent easterly gales, which, pouring down from the -cold heights of Usagara, acquire impetus sufficient to carry the current -over Ugogo, Unyamwezi, and Uvinza, are here less distinctly defined. -The periodical winds over the Lake--regular, but not permanent--are the -south-east and the south-west, which also bring up the foulest weather. -The land and sea breezes are felt almost as distinctly as upon the -shores of the Indian Ocean. The breath of the morning, called by the -Arabs El Barad, or the zephyr, sets in from the north. During the day -are light variable breezes, which often subside, when the weather is not -stormy, into calms. In the evenings a gentle afflatus comes up from the -waters. Throughout the dry season the Lake becomes a wind-trap, and a -heavy ground sea rolls towards the shore. In the rains there is less -sea, but accidents occur from sudden and violent storms. The mountainous -breakers of Arab and African informants were not seen; in fact, with a -depth of three feet from ridge to dell, a wave would swamp the largest -laden canoe. Wind-currents are common. Within a few hours a stream will -be traversed, setting strongly to the east, and crossed by a southerly -or south-westerly current. High gales, in certain localities where the -waves set upon a flush, flat shore, drive the waters fifteen to twenty -feet beyond the usual mark. This circumstance may partly explain the -Arab’s belief in a regular Madd wa Jarr--ebb and flow--which Eastern -travellers always declare to have observed upon the Tanganyika and -Nyassa Lakes, and which Mr. Anderson believes to exist in the little -Ngami. A mass of water so large must be, to a certain extent, subject to -tidal influences; but the narrowness of the bed from east to west would -render their effect almost unobservable. Mr. Francis Galton referred me -for the explanation of this phenomenon to a paper ‘On the Seiches of -Lakes,’ by Colonel J. R. Jackson, F.R.G.S., published in the ‘Journal of -the R. G. S.,’ vol. iii. of 1833, in which the learned author refers -the ebb and flow of the waters of Lake Leman, or of Geneva (and of the -lakes of Zurich, Annecy, and Constance), to “an unequal pressure of the -atmosphere on different parts of the lake at the same time; that is, to -the simultaneous effect of columns of air of different weight or -different elasticity, arising from temporary variations of temperature, -or from mechanical causes.” - -The scenery and the navigation of the Tanganyika have been illustrated -in the last chapter. Remains only a succinct account of the physical and -ethnological features of its Periplus, carefully collected from -authorities on the spot. - -According to the Wajiji, from their country to the Runangwa or Marungu -River, which enters the Lake at the southern point, there are twelve -stages; this Periplus numbers 120 khambi or stations, at most of which, -however, provisions are not procurable. An extended list of fifty-three -principal points was given by the guides; it is omitted, as it contains -nothing beyond mere names. There are, however, sixteen tribes and -districts which claim attention: of these, Ukaranga and Ujiji have -already been described. - -The kingdom of Urundi, which lies north of Ujiji, has a sea-face of -about fifty miles; a low strip of exceeding fertility, backed at short -distances by a band of high green hill. This region, rising from the -Lake in a north-easterly direction, culminates into the equatorial mass -of highlands which, under the name of Karagwah, forms the western spinal -prolongation of the Lunar Mountains. The residence of the Mwami, or -chief sultan Mwezi, is near the headstream of the Kitangure (Kitangule), -or River of Karagwah, which rises at a place distant six days’ march -(sixty miles), and bearing north-east from, the Tanganyika. His -settlement, according to the Arabs, is of considerable extent; the huts -are built of rattan, and lions abound in the vicinity. - -Urundi differs from the lake regions generally in being a strictly -monarchical country, locally governed by Watware or headmen, who -transmit the customs and collections at stated periods to their -suzerain. The Mwame, it is said, can gather in a short time a large host -of warriors who are the terror of the neighbouring tribes. The Warundi -are evidently natives of a high cold country; they are probably the -“white people resembling Abyssinians,” and dwelling near the Lake, of -whom European geographers have heard from Zanzibar. The complexion -varies from a tawny yellow, the colour of the women, to a clear dark -brown, which is so brightened by the daily use of ochre mixed with -palm-oil, that in few cases the real tint is discernible. The men tattoo -with circles and lines like cupping-cuts; some burn up alti rilievi of -large shining lumps an inch in diameter, a decoration not a little -resembling large boils; others chip the fore teeth like the Wanyamwezi. -Their limbs are stout and well proportioned, many stand upwards of six -feet high, and they bear the appearance of a manly and martial race. -Their dress is the mbugu, worn in the loosest way; their arms are heavy -spears, sime, and unusually strong arrows; their ornaments are beads, -brass wire, and streaks of a carmine-coloured substance, like the red -farinaceous powder called in India gulal, drawn across the head and -forehead. The Waganga, or priests of Urundi, wear a curious hood, a -thatch of long white grass or fibre, cut away at the face and allowed to -depend behind over the shoulders; their half-naked figures, -occasionally rattling wooden clappers, and capering causelessly like -madmen, present a savage and horrid appearance. Honourable women wear -long tobes of American domestics from below the arms to the ankles; they -are followed by hosts of female slaves, and preserve an exceptionally -modest and decorous demeanour. Their features are of the rounded African -type of beauty. Their necks and bosoms support a profusion of sofi and -other various-coloured beads; their foreheads are bound with frontlets, -fillet-like bands of white and coral porcelain, about three fingers -deep, a highly becoming ornament probably derived from Karagwah; and -those who were seen by the Expedition invariably walked about with thin -staves five or six feet long, pointed and knobbed as the walking-sticks -of ancient Egypt. - -At the northern extremity of the Urundi sea-face, and at the head of the -Tanganyika, lies the land of Uzige; it is rarely visited except by the -Lakist traders. This people, who, like their neighbours, cannot exist -without some form of traffic, have, it is said, pursued the dows of the -earlier Arab explorers with a flotilla of small canoes; it is probable -that negro traders would be better received. In their country, according -to the guides, six rivers fall into the Tanganyika in due order from the -east: the Kuryamavenge, the Molongwe, the Karindira, the Kariba, the -Kibaiba, and westernmost the Rusizi or Lusizi. The latter is the main -drain of the northern countries, and the best authorities, that is to -say those nearest the spot, unanimously assert that it is an influent. - -The races adjoining Uzige, namely, the Wavira on the north-western head -of the Tanganyika, and their southern neighbours, the Wabembe cannibals, -have already been mentioned. The Wasenze inhabit the hills within or -westwards of the Wabembe. Further southwards and opposite Kawele in -Ujiji are the Wagoma highlanders. The lower maritime lands belonging to -the Wagoma supply the gigantic mvule trees required for the largest -canoes. These patriarchs of the forest are felled and shaped with little -axes on the spot; when finished they are pushed and dragged down the -slopes by the workmen, and are launched and paddled over to the shores -of Ujiji. - -South of the Wagoma are the Waguhha, who have been mentioned as the -proprietors of the islets south-west of Ujiji. In their lands, according -to the Arabs, is a lake or large water called Mikiziwá, whence the tribe -upon its banks derives its name Wamikiziwá. Through the country of the -Waguhha lies the route to Uruwwa, at present the western terminus of the -Zanzibar trade. The merchant crossing the sea-arm which separates -Kasenge from the mainland of the Tanganyika, strikes towards Uruwwa; the -line runs over low levels shelving towards the lake, cut by a -reticulation of streams unfordable after rain, and varied by hilly and -rolling ground. Provisions are everywhere procurable, but the people, -like the Wavinza, are considered dangerous. At Uruwwa the khete, or -string of beads, is half the size of that current in other countries. -The price of ivory per frasilah is 15 miranga, or 150 large khete of -white, small-blue, and coarse-red porcelain beads, the latter called -Lungenga; besides which a string of sungomaji (pigeon-egg beads), and a -few sámesáme, or coral-beads, are thrown in. The route numbers nine long -or sixteen short stages; the general direction is south-westerly. -Kiyombo, the sultan of Uruwwa, is at present friendly with the Arabs; he -trades in ivory, slaves, and a little copper from Katata or Katanga, a -district distant fifteen marches north-west of Usenda, the now -well-known capital of the great chief Kazembe. The grandfather of the -present Kazembe, the “viceroy” of the country lying south-west of the -Tanganyika, and feudatory to Mwátá yá Nvo, the sovereign of “Uropua,” -was first visited by Dr. Lacerda, governor of the Rios de Sena, in -1798-99. The traveller died, however, after being nine months in the -country, without recording the name and position of the African capital; -the former was supplied by the expedition sent under Major Monteiro and -Captain Gamitto in 1831-32; it is variously pronounced Lucenda, Luenda, -and by the Arabs Usenda, the difference being caused probably by dialect -or inflexion. According to the Arabs, the Kazembe visited by the -Portuguese expedition in 1831, died about 1837, and was succeeded by his -son the present chief. He is described as a man of middle age, of -light-coloured complexion, handsomely dressed in a Surat cap, silk coat, -and embroidered loin cloth; he is rich in copper, ivory, and slaves, -cloth and furniture, muskets and gunpowder. Many Arabs, probably -half-castes, are said to be living with him in high esteem, and the -medium of intercourse is the Kisawahili. Though he has many wives, he -allows his subjects but one each, puts both adulterer and adulteress to -death, and generally punishes by gouging out one or both eyes. - -On the Uruwwa route caravans are composed wholly of private slaves; the -races of the Tanganyika will not carry loads, and the Wanyamwezi, -unmaritime savages like the Kafirs, who have a mortal dread and -abhorrence of water, refuse to advance beyond Ujiji. On account of its -dangers, the thriving merchants have hitherto abandoned this line to -debtors and desperate men. - -South of Uguhha lies the unimportant tribe of Wat’hembwe, whose -possessions are within sight of Kawele in Ujiji. The race adjoining them -is the Wakatete or Wakadete, and the country is called by the Arabs -Awwal Marungu, on the northern frontier of Marungu. Marungu is one of -the most important divisions of the lands about the Tanganyika. Amayr -bin Said el Shaksi, a sturdy old merchant from Oman, who, wrecked about -twelve years ago on that part of the coast, had spent five months with -the people, living on roots and grasses, divides the region generically -termed Marungu into three distinct provinces--Marungu to the north, -Karungu in the centre, and Urungu on the south. Others mention a western -Marungu, divided from the eastern by the Runangwa River, and they call -the former in contradistinction Marungu Tafuna, from its sultan. - -Western Marungu extends according to the Arabs in depth from Ut’hembwe -to the Wabisa, a tribe holding extensive lands westward of the Nyassa -Lake. Travellers from Unyamwezi to K’hokoro meet, near Ufipa, caravans -of the northern Wabisa _en route_ to Kilwa. Between Marungu and Usenda, -the capital of the Kazembe, the road lies through the district of -Kavvire, distant seven marches; thence nine stages conduct them to the -end of the journey. There is an upper land route through Uruwwa for -those travelling from Ujiji to Usenda, and many caravans have passed -from Unyanyembe direct through K’hokoro and Ufipa, to the country of the -Kazembe. Mr. Cooley (“Geography of N’yassi,” p. 7) conjectures that the -Ambios or Imbies, Zimbas or Muzimbas, celebrated by the old Portuguese -historians of Africa on account of an irruption, in 1570, from the north -as far as the Zambezi River, “were no other than the M’Biza, or Moviza, -as they are called by the Portuguese who still occupy its (the Nyassa’s) -south-western banks.” The proper name of this well-known tribe is Wábísá -(in the sing. Mbisá), not Wábíshá, as it is pronounced at Zanzibar, -where every merchant knows “Bisha ivory.” The Wábísá extend according to -the Arabs from the west of the Nyassa or Kilwa Lake towards the south of -the Tanganyika. They dress in bark-cloth, carry down their fine ivory to -Tete and Kilimani (Quillimane); and every four or five years a caravan -appears at Kilwa, where, confounding their hosts with the Portuguese, -they call every Arab “muzungu,” or white man. They are a semi-pastoral -tribe, fond of commerce, and said to be civil and hospitable to -strangers. It must be observed that those geographers are in error who -connect the Wabisa with the Wanyamwezi; they are distinct in manners and -appearance, habits and language. Mr. Cooley has, for instance, asserted -that “the ‘Moviza’ and the ‘Monomoezi’ are similar in physical character -and national marks.” The only mark known to the Wabisa is the kishshah, -or crest of hair; not, as Khamisi Wa Tani asserted to Mr. Cooley (“Inner -Africa laid Open,” p. 61), a dotted line on the nose and forehead; -whereas, the Wanyamwezi, as has been seen, puncture the skin. Thus -Lacerda calls the “Moviza” a frizzled and periwigged people. The Arabs -deny the assertion of Pereira, recorded by Bowdich, that the Moviza, -like the Wahiao, file their teeth. - -Marungu is described by the Arabs as a hilly country like Ujiji and -Uvira: the precincts of the lake, however, are here less bold than the -opposite shore. Off the coast lie four or five islands, two of which, -according to the Arabs, are of considerable size; the only name given is -Ukungwe, which appears, however, to be rather the name of the farthest -point visible from Kasenge, and bearing S. 58° E. On the north-western -frontier of Marungu, and about three marches from the lake, is the -district called Utumbara, from Mtumbara its sultan. This Utumbara, which -must not be confounded with the district of the same name in Northern -Unyamwezi, is said by the Arabs to be fifteen to twenty days’ march from -Usenda. - -Marungu, though considered dangerous, has often been visited by Arab -merchants. After touching at Kasenge they coast along Uguhha for four -days, not daring to land there in consequence of an event that happened -about 1841-42. A large Arab caravan of 200 armed slaves, led by Mohammed -bin Salih and Sulayman bin Nasir, and with four coadjutors, Abd el Al -and Ibn Habib, Shiahs of Bahrayn, Nasir and Rashid bin Salim el Harisi -(who soon afterwards died at Marungu) took boat to Marungu, and in due -time arrived at Usenda. They completed their cargo, and were returning -in a single boat, when they were persuaded by the Sultan Mtumbara to -land, and to assist him in annihilating a neighbour, Sámá or Kipyoká, -living at about one day’s march from the Lake. The Arabs, aided by -Africans, attacked a boma, or palisade, where, bursting in, they found -Sámá’s brother sitting upon pombe, with his wife. The villagers poured -in a shower of arrows, to which the Arabs replied by shooting down the -happy couple over their cups. Sámá’s people fled, but presently -returning they massacred the slaves of the Arabs, who were obliged to -take refuge in the grass till aid was afforded by their employer -Mtumbara. Sámá, thus victorious, burned the Arab boat, and, compelling -the merchants to return to Usenda, seized the first opportunity of -slaying his rival. The Arabs have found means of sending letters to -their friends, but they appear unable to leave the country. Their -correspondence declares them to be living in favour with the Kazembe, -who has presented them with large rice-shambas, that they have collected -ivory and copper in large quantities, but are unable to find porters. -This being highly improbable in a land where in 1807 a slave cost five, -and a tusk of ivory six or seven squares of Indian piece-goods, and as, -moreover, several merchants, deluded by exaggerated accounts of the -Kazembe’s wealth and liberality, intrusted these men with considerable -ventures, of which no tidings have as yet reached the creditors’ ears, -the more acute Arabs suspect that their countrymen are living from hand -to mouth about Usenda, and are cultivating the land with scant prospect -of quitting it. - -The people of Marungu are called Wámbozwá by the Arabs; they are subject -to no king, but live under local rulers, and are ever at war with their -neighbours. They are a dark and plain, a wild and uncomely race. Amongst -these people is observed a custom which connects them with the Wangindo, -Wahiao, and the slave races dwelling inland from Kilwa. They pierce the -upper lip and gradually enlarge the aperture till the end projects in a -kind of bill beyond the nose and chin, giving to the countenance a -peculiar duck-like appearance. The Arabs, who abhor this hideous vagary -of fashion, scarify the sides of the hole and attempt to make the flesh -grow by the application of rock-salt. The people of Marungu, however, -are little valued as slaves; they are surly and stubborn, exceedingly -depraved, and addicted to desertion. - -Crossing the Runangwa or Marungu River, which, draining the southern -countries towards the Tanganyika, is represented to equal the Malagarazi -in volume, the traveller passes through the districts of Marungu Tafuna, -Ubeyya, and Iwemba. Thence, turning to the north, he enters the country -of the Wapoka, between whom and the Lake lie the Wasowwa and the Wafipa. -This coast is divided from the opposite shore by a voyage of fourteen -hours; it is a hilly expanse divided by low plains, where men swarm -according to the natives like ants. At a short distance from the shore -lies the Mvuma group, seven rocks or islets, three of which are -considerable in size, and the largest, shaped like a cone, breeds goats -in plenty, whilst the sea around is rich in fish. There are other islets -in the neighbourhood, but none are of importance. - -Ufipa is an extensive district fertilised by many rivers. It produces -grain in abundance, and the wild rice is of excellent flavour. Cattle -abounded there before the Watuta, who held part of the country, began a -system of plunder and waste, which ended in their emigration to the -north of Uvinza; cows, formerly purchased for a few strings of cheap -white beads, are now rare and dear. The Wafipa are a wild but kindly -people, who seldom carry arms: they have ever welcomed the merchants -that visited them for slaves and ivory, and they are subject to four or -five principal chiefs. The servile specimens seen at Unyanyembe were -more like the jungle races of the Deccan than Africans--small and short, -sooty and shrunken men, so timid, ignorant, and suspicious, that it was -found impossible to obtain from them the simplest specimen of their -dialect. Some of them, like the Wanyoro, had extracted all the lower -incisors. - -North of the Wafipa, according to the Arabs, lies another tribe, called -Wat’hembe (?), an offshoot from the people on the opposite side of the -Tanganyika. Here the lake receives a small river called the Murunguru -(?). The circuit of the Tanganyika concludes with the Wat’hongwe, called -from their sultan or their founder Wat’hongwe Kapana. In clear weather -their long promontory is the furthest point visible from Kawele in -Ujiji; and their lands extend northwards to Ukaranga and the Malagarazi -River. - -Such are the most important details culled from a mass of Arab oral -geography: they are offered however to the reader without any guarantee -of correctness. The principal authorities are the Shaykh Snay bin Amir -el Harsi and Amayr bin Said el Shaksi; the latter was an eye-witness. -All the vague accounts noted down from casual informants were submitted -to them for an imprimatur. Their knowledge and experience surpassing -those of others, it was judged better to record information upon trust -from them only, rather than to heap together reliable and unreliable -details, and as some travellers do, by striking out a medium, inevitably -to confuse fact with fiction. Yet it is the explorer’s unpleasant duty -throughout these lands to doubt everything that has not been subjected -to his own eyes. The boldest might look at the “Mombas Mission Map” and -tremble. - -[Illustration: SNAY BIN AMIR’S HOUSE.] - -[Illustration: Mganga, or medicine man. - -The porter. - -The Kirangozi, or guide. - -Muinyi Kidogo. - -Mother and child.] - - - - -CHAP. XVI. - -WE RETURN TO UNYANYEMBE. - - -Immediately after the arrival of our caravan I made preparations for -quitting Ujiji. The 26th May, 1858, was the day appointed for our -departure, which was fated to resemble a flight more than the march of a -peaceful Expedition. Said bin Salim, who had received as “Urangozi” or -retaining-fee from his two African “brothers,” Lurinda and Kannena, a -boy-slave and a youth, thought only of conveying them safely out of the -country. The Baloch, especially the Jemadar, who had invested every -cubit of cloth and every ounce of powder in serviles, were also -trembling at the prospect of desertion. As usual, when these barbarians -see preparations for departure, the Wajiji became more extortionate and -troublesome than before. A general drinking-bout had followed the return -of the crews from Uvira: Kannena had not been sober for a fortnight. At -last his succession of violent and maudlin fits ended fortunately for us -in a high fever, which somewhat tamed his vice. Shortly after our -disappearance, his territory was attacked by the predal Watuta: and had -not the Arabs assisted in its defence, it would doubtless have been -converted into a grisly solitude, like the once fertile and populous -Uhha. Kannena, of course, fled into the mountains from the attack of the -gallant rascals: he had courage enough to bully, but not to fight. I -heard of him no more: he showed no pity to the homeless stranger,--may -the world show none to him! - -I shall long remember the morning of the 26th May, which afforded me the -last sunrise-spectacle of the Tanganyika Lake. The charm of the scenery -was perhaps enhanced by the reflection that my eyes might never look -upon it again. Masses of brown-purple clouds covered the quarter of the -heavens where the sun was about to rise. Presently the mists, ruffled -like ocean billows, and luminously fringed with Tyrian purple, were cut -by filmy rays, whilst, from behind their core, the internal living fire -shot forth its broad beams, like the spokes of a huge aërial wheel, -rolling a flood of gold over the light blue waters of the lake. At last -Dan Sol, who at first contented himself with glimmering through the -cloud-mass, disclosed himself in his glory, and dispersed with a glance -the obstacles of the vapourous earth: breaking into long strata and -little pearly flakes, they soared high in the empyrean, whilst the -all-powerful luminary assumed undisputed possession of earth, and a soft -breeze, the breath of the morn, as it is called in the East, awoke the -waters into life. - -But I am not long to enjoy this mighty picture. A jarring din sings in -my ears, contrasting strangely with the beautiful world before my eyes. -A crowd of newly-engaged Pagazi are standing before me in the ecstasy of -impatience: some poised like cranes upon the right foot, with the left -sole placed against the knee, others with their arms thrown in a -brotherly fashion round neighbours’ necks, whilst others squatted in the -usual Asiatic and African position, with their posteriora resting upon -their calves and heels, their elbows on their thighs, and their chins -propped upon their hands, gazed at me with that long longing look which -in these lands evidences a something sorely wanted. Presently, from Said -bin Majid’s home-bound caravan, with which I had consented to travel, -shots and a popping of muskets rang through the air: the restless crowd -that still watched me appeared at the sound of this signal to lose their -wits. In a moment the space before the Tembe was cleared. After a few -moments, Said bin Salim ran up violently excited, declaring that his -orders were of no avail, that some parties were starting with, and -others without, their loads, and that no man would take up the burden -assigned to him on the yesterday. I directed him to compose himself, and -since he could not remain, to precede me with the headstrong gang as far -as the Ruche River--the first stage--whence he would send back, as soon -as possible, a few men bribed to carry my hammock and to remove the -loose loads scattered upon the ground. These, as usual on such -occasions, were our own. He departed greatly delighting in the -opportunity of escaping further trouble, and of driving off his six wild -slaves in safety: true to his inconsequential Arabo-African blood, -however, neglecting the appointed station in the eagerness of hurry, he -marched on with Said bin Majid’s men to at least double the distance, -thus placing himself out of Kannena’s reach, and throwing all my -arrangements into direst confusion. - -Meanwhile, having breakfasted, we sat till the afternoon in the now -empty and deserted Tembe, expecting the return of the slaves. As none -appeared, I was induced by the utter misery depicted in the countenances -of the Baloch, and trusting that the return-porters would meet us on the -way, to give orders for a march about 4 P.M., to mount my manchil, and -to set out carried by only two men. Scarcely had I left the Tembe when a -small party, headed by Said bin Salim’s four children, passed by me at -speed. Though summoned to halt, they sped onwards, apparently intending -to fetch the loads from the house, and thus to relieve those left behind -as a guard; it proved afterwards that they were bound for the bazar to -buy plantains for their patroon. Meanwhile, hurrying on with one Baloch, -the astute Gul Mohammed, Valentine, and three sons of Ramji, as the -shades of evening closed around us, we reached, without guide or -direction from the surly villagers, the ferry of the Ruche River. -Disappointed at not finding the camp at the place proposed, we were -punted across the Styx-like stream; and for what reason no man could -say, the party took the swampy road along the Bay of Ukaranga. The -mosquitos stung like wasps; the loud spoutings and the hollow bursts of -bellow, snort, and grunt of the hippopotami--in these lands they are -brave as the bulls of the Spanish sierras--and the roar of the old male -crocodile startled the party, whilst the porters had difficulty in -preserving their balance as they waded through water waist-deep, and -crept across plains of mud, mire, and sea-ooze. - -As the darkness rendered the march risky, I gave the word, when arrived -at a bunch of miserable huts, for a bivouac; the party, had I permitted -it, would have wandered through the outer glooms without fixed purpose -till permanently bogged. We spread our bedding upon the clear space -between the cane-cones acting hovels, and we snatched, under a -resplendent moon, and a dew that soaked through the blankets, a few -hours of sleep, expecting to be aroused by a guide and porters before -the end of night. Gaetano had preceded us with the provisions and the -_batterie de cuisine_; we were destitute even of tobacco, and we looked -forward expectantly to the march. But the dawn broke, and morning -flashed over the canopy above, and the sun poured his hot rays through -the cool, clear air, still we found ourselves alone. The sons of Ramji, -and the others composing our party, had gradually disappeared, leaving -with us only Gul Mohammed. Taking heart of grace, we then cleared out a -hut, divided the bedding, lay down in the patience of expectation, and -dined on goat. Our neighbour afforded us some food for the mind. -Apparently an Androgyne, she had the voice, the look, and the thorax of -a man, whilst the dress and the manner argued her to be a woman; it was -the only approach to the dubious sex seen by me in East Africa. - -About 2 P.M. appeared Ramazan and Salman, children of Said bin Said, -with four porters, an insufficient supply for the long and trying march -which they described. They insisted upon our enduring the heat and -labour of the day so energetically, that they were turned with ignominy -out of the village, and were told to send their master to escort us in -the evening or on the morning of the next day. Accordingly at 9 A.M. of -the 28th May appeared Said bin Salim and the Jemadar, escorted by a -full gang of bearers. The former, bursting with irritation, began that -loud speaking which in the East is equivalent to impertinence; he was -easily silenced by a more explosive and an angrier tone of voice. Having -breakfasted, we set out leisurely, and after rejoining Said bin Majid’s -party we advanced until evening fell upon us at the end of the first -day’s stage. - -I have related the tale of our departure from the Tanganyika somewhat -circumstantially: it was truly characteristic of Arab travelling in -Eastern Africa. Said bin Salim had scant cause for hurry: slaves rarely -desert on the day of departure; knowing themselves to be watched they -wait their opportunity, and find it perhaps--as our caravan discovered -to its loss--a week or two afterwards. The Arab was determined to gain a -few miles by passing the appointed station; he did so, and he lost two -days. In his haste and dread of delay, he had neglected to lay in salt, -ghee, or any other stores for the road but grain: consequently he was -detained at half a dozen places to procure them. Finally, his froward -children, who had done their utmost to waste time in the bazar, were not -reproved, much less punished. Truly the half-caste Arab of Zanzibar is -almost as futile as the slavish moiety of his ancestry. - -There was little novelty in our return-march to Unyamyembe. We took the -northerly route, crossing and skirting the lower spurs of the mountains -which form the region of Uhha. During the first few stages, being still -within the influence of that bag of Æolus, the Tanganyika trough, we -endured tornados of wind and heavy rain, thunder and lightning. After -the 5th March the threatening clouds drew off, the dank heavy dew -diminished, and the weather became clear and hot, with a raw cold -eastern wind pouring through the tepid temperature, and causing general -sickness. On the 29th May we pitched at Uyonwa, a little settlement of -Wabuha, who have already raised crops of sweet potatoes; if they have -the sense to avoid keeping cattle, the only attraction to the robber -Watuta, they may once more convert the sad waste of Uhha, a wilderness -where men are now wolves to one another, into a land smiling with grains -and fruits. Beyond Uyonwa we hurried over “neat-tongue” hills, separated -by green swamps and black rivulets, with high woody banks, over jungle -paths thick with spear and tiger grass, brambly bush and tall growths of -wild arrowroot, and over a country for the most part rough and rugged, -with here and there an acacia-barren, a bamboo-clump, or a lone Palmyra. -Approaching the Rusugi River, which we forded on the 1st June at the -upper or Parugerero passage, the regular succession of ridge and swamp -gave way to a dry, stony, and thorny slope, rolling with an eastward -decline. We delayed for an hour at the Salt-pass, to lay in a supply of -the necessary, and the temptation to desert became irresistible. -Muhabanya, the “slavey” of the establishment, ran away, carrying off his -property and my hatchet. The Jemadar was rendered almost daft by the -disappearance of half of his six slaves. A Mnyamwezi porter placed his -burden--it was a case of Cognac and vinegar, deeply regretted!--upon the -ground, and levanted. Two other porters lost their way, and disappeared -for some days; their comrades, standing in awe of the Wavinza, would not -venture in search of them. The Kirangozi or Mnyamwezi guide, who had -accompanied the Expedition from the coast, remained behind, because his -newly-purchased slave-girl had become foot-sore, and unable to advance; -finding the case hopeless, he cut off her head, lest of his evil good -might come to another. The party gave the usual amount of trouble. The -bull-headed Mabruki had invested his capital in a small servile, an -infant phenomenon, who, apparently under six years, trotted manfully -alongside the porters, bearing his burden of hide-bed and water-gourd -upon his tiny shoulder. For some days he was to his surly master as her -first doll to a young girl: when tired he was mounted upon the back, and -after crossing every swamp his feet were carefully wiped. When the -novelty, however, wore off, the little unfortunate was so savagely -beaten that I insisted upon his being committed to the far less -hard-hearted Bombay. The Hanmals who carried my manchil were the most -annoying of their kind. Wanyamwezi veterans of the way (their chief man -wore a kizbao or waistcoat, and carried an old Tower musket), originally -five in number, and paid in advance as far as Unyanyembe; they deserted -slowly and surely, till it was necessary to raise a fresh gang. For a -short time they worked well, then they fell off. In the mornings when -their names were called they hid themselves in the huts, or they -squatted pertinaciously near the camp fires, or they rushed ahead of the -party. On the road they hurried forwards, recklessly dashing the -manchil, without pity or remorse, against stock and stone. A man allowed -to lag behind never appeared again on that march, and more than once -they attempted to place the hammock on the ground and to strike for -increase of wages, till brought to a sense of their duty by a -sword-point applied to their ribs. They would halt for an hour to boil -their sweet potatoes, but if I required the delay of five minutes, or -the advance of five yards, they became half mad with fidgetiness; they -were as loud-voiced, noisy and insolent, as turbulent and irritable, as -grumbling, importunate, and greedy specimens of the genus _homo_, -species _Africanus_, as I have ever seen, even amongst the “sons of -water” in the canoes of Ujiji. In these lands, however, the traveller -who cannot utilise the raw material that comes to hand will make but -little progress. - -On the 2nd June we fell into our former route at Jambeho, in the -alluvial valley of the Malagarazi River. The party was pitched in two -places by the mismanagement of Said bin Salim; already the porters began -to raise loud cries of Posho! (provaunt!) and their dread of the Wavinza -increased as they approached the Malagarazi Ferry. The land in the -higher levels was already drying up, the vegetation had changed from -green to yellow, and the strips of grassy and tree-clad rock, -buttressing the left bank of the river, afforded those magnificent -spectacles of conflagration which have ever been favourite themes with -the Indian muse:-- - - “silence profound - Enwraps the forest, save where bubbling springs - Gush from the rock, or where the echoing hills - Give back the tiger’s roar, or where the boughs - Burst into crackling flame and wide extends - The blaze the Dragon’s fiery breath has kindled.” - - WILSON’s _Uttara Rama Cheritra_, act 2. - -A sheet of flame, beginning with the size of a spark, overspread the -hill-side, advancing on the wings of the wind, with the roaring rushing -sound of many hosts where the grass lay thick, shooting huge forky -tongues high into the dark air, where tall trees, the patriarchs of the -forest, yielded their lives to the blast, smouldering and darkening, as -if about to be quenched where the rock afforded scanty fuel, then -flickering, blazing up and soaring again till topping the brow of the -hill, the sheet became a thin line of fire, and gradually vanished from -the view, leaving its reflection upon the canopy of lurid smoke studded -with sparks and bits of live braise, which marked its descent on the -other side of the buttress. Resuming our march along the cold and foggy -vale of the Malagarazi, and crossing on the third day the stony slabby -hills that bound the fluviatile plain northward, we reached, on the 4th -June, the dreaded ferry-place of the river. - -The great Malagarazi still swollen, though the rains had ceased, by the -surplus moisture of the sopped earth, had spread its wide heart of -shallow waters, variegated with narrow veins--a deeper artery in the -centre showing the main stream--far over the plain. Thus offering -additional obstacles to crossing, it was turned to good account by the -Mutware, the Lord of the Ferry. On arrival at the Kraal overlooking the -river I summoned this Charon, who demanded as his preliminary obolus one -pot of oil, seven cloths, and 300 khete of blue porcelains. Said bin -Majid, our companion, paid about one-fifth the sum. But the Kraal was -uncomfortable, we were stung out by armies of ants; a slight earthquake, -at 11.15 A.M., on the 4th June, appeared a bad omen to Said bin Salim: -briefly, I was compelled to countenance the extortion. On the next -morning we set out, having been cannily preceded by Said bin Majid. -Every difficulty was thrown in the way of our boxes and baggage. Often, -when I refused the exorbitant sum of four and even five khete per load, -the fellows quietly poled off, squatted in their canoes, and required to -be summoned back by Said bin Salim with the abjectest concessions. They -would not take on board a Goanese or a Baloch without extra pay, and -they landed, under some pretext, Said bin Salim and the Jemadar upon a -dry knoll in the waste of waters, and demanded and received a cloth -before they would rescue them. In these and kindred manœuvres nearly -seven hours were expended; no accidents, however, occurred, and at 4 -P.M. we saw ourselves, with hearts relieved of some load, once more at -Ugogo, on the left bank of the river. I found my companion, who had -preceded me, in treaty for the purchase of a little pig; fortunately the -beads would not persuade the porters to part with it, consequently my -pots escaped pollution. - -An eventless march of twelve days led from the Malagarazi Ferry to -Unyanyembe. Avoiding the _détour_ to Msene we followed this time the -more direct southern route. I had expected again to find the -treacle-like surface over which we had before crept, and perhaps even in -a worse state; but the inundations compelled the porters to skirt the -little hills bounding the swamps. Provisions--rice, holcus and panicum, -manioc, cucumbers and sweet potatoes, pulse, ground-nuts, and -tobacco--became plentiful as we progressed; the arrowroot and the bhang -plant flourished wild, and plantains and palmyras were scattered over -the land. On the 8th June, emerging from inhospitable Uvinza into -neutral ground, we were pronounced to be out of danger, and on the next -day, when in the meridian of Usagozi, we were admitted for the first -time to the comfort of a village. Three days afterwards we separated -from Said bin Majid. Having a valuable store of tusks, he had but half -loaded his porters; he also half fed them: the consequence was that they -marched like mad men, and ours followed like a flock of sheep. He would -not incur the danger and expense of visiting a settlement, and he -pitched in the bush, where provisions were the least obtainable. When I -told him that we must part company, he deprecated the measure with his -stock statement, viz. that at the distance of an hour’s march there was -a fine safe village full of provisions, and well fitted for a halt. The -hour’s march proved a long stage of nearly sixteen miles, over a -remarkably toilsome country, a foul jungle with tsetse-haunted -thorn-bushes, swamps, and inundated lands, ending at a wretched cluster -of huts, which could supply nothing but a tough old hen. I was sorry to -part with the Arab merchant, a civil man, and a well-informed, yet -somewhat addicted to begging like all his people. His marching freaks, -however, were unendurable, dawdling at the beginning of the journey, -rushing through the middle, and lagging at the end. We afterwards passed -him on the road, of course he had been delayed, and subsequently, during -a long halt at Unyanyembe, he frequently visited me. - -On the 17th June the caravan, after sundry difficulties, caused by -desertion, passed on to Irora the village of Salim bin Salih, who this -time received us hospitably enough. Thence we first sighted the blue -hills of Unyanyembe, our destination. The next day saw us at Yombo, -where, by good accident, we met a batch of seven cloth-bales and one box -_en route_ to Ujiji, under charge of our old enemy Salim bin Sayf of -Dut’humi. My complaint against “Msopora,” forwarded from Zuryomero, had, -after Lieut.-Col. Hamerton’s decease, on the 5th July 1857, been laid by -M. Cochet, Consul de France, before H. M. the Sayyid Majid,--a fact -which accounts for the readiness with which our effects were on this -occasion delivered up, and for the non-appearance of the individual in -person. We also received the second packet of letters which reached us -during that year: as usual, they-were full of evil news. Almost every -one had lost some relation or friend near and dear to him: even Said -bin Salim’s hearth had been spoiled of its chief attraction, an only -son, who, born it was supposed in consequence of my “barakat” -(propitious influence), had been named Abdullah. Such tidings are -severely felt by the wanderer who, living long behind the world, and -unable to mark its gradual changes, lulls, by dwelling upon the past, -apprehension into a belief that his home has known no loss, and who -expects again to meet each old familiar face ready to smile upon his -return as it was to weep at his departure. - -After a day’s halt to collect porters at Yombo, we marched from it on -the 20th June, and passing the scene of our former miseries, the village -under the lumpy hill, “Zimbili,” we re-entered Kazeh. There I was warmly -welcomed by the hospitable Snay bin Amir, who, after seating us to -coffee, as is the custom, for a few minutes in his Barzah or ante-room, -led us to the old abode, which had been carefully repaired, swept, and -plastered. There a large metal tray bending under succulent dishes of -rice and curried fowl, giblets and manioc boiled in the cream of the -ground-nut, and sugared omelets flavoured with ghee and onion shreds, -presented peculiar attractions to half-starved travellers. - -Our return from Ujiji to Unyanyembe was thus accomplished in twenty-two -stations, which, halts included, occupied a total of twenty-six days, -from the 26th May to the 20th June 1858, and the distance along the road -may be computed at 265 statute miles. - -After a day’s repose at Kazeh, I was called upon, as “etiquette” -directs, by the few Arab merchants there present. Musa Mzuri, the -Indian, was still absent at Karagwah, and the greater part of the -commercial body was scattered in trading-trips over the country. I had -the satisfaction of finding that my last indent on Zanzibar for 400 -dollars’ worth of cloth and beads had arrived under the charge of Tani -bin Sulayyam, who claimed four Gorah or pieces for safe conduct. I also -recovered, though not without some display of force, the table and chair -left by the escort and the slaves in the Dungomaro Nullah. The articles -had been found by one Muinyi Khamisi, a peddling and not over-honest -Msawahili, who demanded an unconscionable sum for porterage, and whose -head-piece assumed the appearance of a coal-scuttle when rewarded with -the six cloths proposed by Snay bin Amir. The debauched Wazira, who had -remained behind at Msene, appeared with an abundance of drunken smiles, -sideling in at the doorway, which he scratched _more Africano_ with one -set of five nails, whilst the other was applied to a similar purpose _à -posteriori_. He was ejected, despite his loud asseverations that he, and -he only, could clear us through the dangerous Wagogo. The sons of Ramji, -who, travelling from Msene, had entered Kazeh on the day preceding our -arrival, came to the house _en masse_, headed by Kidogo, with all the -jaunty and _sans-souci_ gait and manner of yore. I had imagined that by -that time they would have found their way to the coast. I saw no reason, -however, for re-engaging them, and they at once returned to the gaieties -of their capital. - -During the first week following the march all paid the inevitable -penalty of a toilsome trudge through a perilous jungly country, in the -deadliest season of the year, when the waters are drying up under a -fiery sun, and a violent _vent de bise_ from the East, which pours -through the tepid air like cold water into a warm bath. Again I suffered -severely from swelling and numbness of the extremities, and strength -returned by tantalisingly slow degrees. My companion was a martyr to -obstinate deafness and to a dimness of vision, which incapacitated him -from reading, writing, and observing correctly. Both the Goanese were -prostrated by fever, followed by severe rheumatism and liver-pains. In -the case of Valentine, who, after a few hours lay deprived of sense and -sensation, quinine appearing useless--the malady only changed from a -quotidian to a tertian type--I resolved to try the Tinctura Warburgii, -which had been used with such effect by Lieut.-Col. Hamerton at -Zanzibar. “O true apothecary!” The result was quasi-miraculous. The -anticipated paroxysm did not return; the painful emetism at once ceased; -instead of a death-like lethargy, a sweet childish sleep again visited -his aching eyes, and, chief boon of all to those so affected, the -corroding thirst gave way to an appetite, followed by sound if not -strong digestion. Finally, the painful and dangerous consequences of the -disease were averted, and the subsequent attacks were scarcely worthy of -notice. I feel bound in justice, after a personal experiment, which -ended similarly, to pay this humble tribute of gratitude to Dr. -Warburg’s invaluable discovery. The Baloch, in their turn, yielded to -the effects of malaria, many complained of ulcerations and prurigo, and -their recovery was protracted by a surfeit of food and its consequences. -But, under the influence of narcotics, tonics, and stimulants, we -presently progressed towards convalescence; and stronger than any -physical relief, in my case, was the moral effect of success, and the -cessation of the ghastly doubts and cares, and of the terrible wear and -tear of mind which, from the coast to Uvira, had never been absent. I -felt the proud consciousness of having done my best, under conditions -from beginning to end the worst and the most unpromising, and that -whatever future evils Fate might have in store for me, that it could not -rob me of the meed won by the hardships and sufferings of the past. - -Several Arab merchants were preparing to return coastwards for the -“Mausim” (monsoon), or Indian trading-season, which, at Zanzibar, -includes the months of December, January, and February, and they were -not unwilling to avail themselves of my escort. But several reasons -detained me at Kazeh. Some time was required to make preparations for -the long down march. I had not given up the project of returning to the -seaboard _viâ_ Kilwa. Moreover, it was judged advisable to collect from -the Arabs details concerning the interesting countries lying to the -north and south of the line traversed by the Expedition. As has been -mentioned in Chap. XI., the merchants had detailed to me, during my -first halt at Kazeh, their discovery of a large Bahr--a sea or -lake--lying fifteen or sixteen marches to the north; and from their -descriptions and bearings, my companion had laid down the water in a -hand-map forwarded to the Royal Geographical Society. All agreed in -claiming for it superiority of size over the Tanganyika Lake. I saw at -once that the existence of this hitherto unknown basin would explain -many discrepancies promulgated by speculative geographers, more -especially the notable and deceptive differences of distances, caused by -the confusion of the two waters.[8] Remained only to ascertain if the -Arabs had not, with the usual Oriental hyperbole, exaggerated the -dimensions of the Northern Lake. - - [8] Mr. Erhardt, for instance, “Memoir on the Chart of East and - Central Africa, compiled by J. Erhardt and J. Rebmann, London, 1856,” - announces the “existence of a Great Lake, called in the south Niandsha - (Nyassa), in the north Ukerewe, and on the coast Niasa and Bahari ya - Uniamesi,” makes the distance through Dschaga (Chhaga) and the Masai - plains only fifty-nine marches. - -My companion, who had recovered strength from the repose and the -comparative comfort of our head-quarters, appeared a fit person to be -detached upon this duty; moreover, his presence at Kazeh was by no means -desirable. To associate at the same time with Arabs and Anglo-Indians, -who are ready to take offence when it is least intended, who expect -servility as their due, and whose morgue of colour induces them to treat -all skins a shade darker than their own as “niggers,” is even more -difficult than to avoid a rupture when placed between two friends who -have quarrelled with each other. Moreover, in this case, the difficulty -was exaggerated by the Anglo-Indian’s complete ignorance of Eastern -manners and customs, and of any Oriental language beyond, at least, a -few words of the debased Anglo-Indian jargon. - -I have dwelt upon this subject because my companion has thought proper -to represent (in Blackwood, Oct. 1859) that I was “most unfortunately -quite done up, but most graciously consented to wait with the Arabs and -recruit health.” This is far from being the fact. I had other and more -important matter to work out. Writing from the spot (Unyanyembe, 2nd -July 1858, and published in the Proceedings of the Royal Geographical -Society, 24th Jan. 1859) my companion represents the case somewhat -differently. “To diminish the disappointment, caused by the short-coming -of our cloth, in not seeing the whole of the Sea Ujiji, I have proposed -to take a flying trip to the unknown lake, while Captain Burton prepares -for our return homewards.” - -On the 30th June the subject was brought forward in the presence of Said -bin Salim and the Baloch. The former happily lodged at Kazeh, felt loath -to tear himself from the massive arms of his charmer Halimah. He -finessed as usual, giving an evasive answer, viz. that he could not -decide till the last day, and he declined to influence the escort, who -afterwards declared that he had done all in his power to deter them from -the journey. In vain my companion threatened him with forfeiture of his -reward after he returned to Zanzibar; in vain my companion told him that -it was forfeited.[9] He held firm, and I was not over-anxious in -influencing him, well knowing that though the Baloch, a stolid race, -might prove manageable, the brain of the Machiavellian Arab, whose -egregious selfishness never hesitated at any measure calculated to -ensure its gratification, was of a somewhat too heavy metal for the -article opposed to it. That Said bin Salim attempted to thwart the -project I have no doubt. The Kirangozi, and the fifteen porters hired -from his village with the tempting offer of five cloths per man, showed -an amount of fear and shirking hardly justified by the real risks of -treading so well known a tract. The Jemadar and his men at first -positively refused their escort, but the meaning word “Bakhshish” -slipping in reassured me. After informing them that in case of recusancy -their rations should be stopped, I inquired the amount of _largesse_ -expected. The ten efficient men composing the guard demanded fifteen -cloths a piece, besides one porter each to carry their matchlocks and -pervanents. The number of the porters was reduced, the cloth was -procured from an Arab merchant, Sayf bin Said el Wardi, at an expense of -one hundred dollars, made payable by draught upon Ladha Damha of -Zanzibar: at the same time, the Baloch were warned that they must option -between this and the reward conditionally promised to them after -return.[10] Their bad example was followed by the old and faithful -servant “Bombay,” who required instant dismissal unless he also received -cloth before the journey: he was too useful to my companion as -interpreter and steward to be lightly parted with. But the granting his -claim led to a similar strike and menace on the part of the bull-headed -slave Mabruki, who, being merely a “headache” to me, at once “got the -sack” till he promised, if pardoned, to shake off his fear, and not to -be naughty in future. By dint of severe exertion my companion was -enabled to leave Kazeh on the 10th July. - - [9] I transcribe the following words from my companion’s paper - (Blackwood, October 1859): “I urged that it was as much his (Said bin - Salim’s) duty as mine to go there; and said, unless he changed his - present resolution, I should certainly recommend the Government not to - pay the gratuity which the consul had promised him on condition that - he worked entirely to our satisfaction, in assisting the Expedition to - carry out the Government’s plans.” - - [10] So my report printed in the Proceedings Roy. Geog. Soc. loco cit. - “Our asses, thirty in number, all died, our porters ran away, our - goods were left behind; our black escort became so unmanageable as to - require dismissal; the weakness of our party invited attacks, and our - wretched Baloch deserted us in the jungle, and throughout have - occasioned an infinity of trouble.” - -I proceed to recount the most important portion of the information--for -ampler details the reader is referred to the Journal of the Royal -Geographical Society--collected during my halt at Kazeh from various -sources, Arab and African, especially from Snay bin Amir, concerning-- - - -THE NORTHERN KINGDOMS: KARAGWAH, UGANDA, AND UNYORO. - -The extensive and hitherto unknown countries described in this chapter, -being compact despotisms, resembling those of Ashanti and Dahomey more -than the semi-monarchies of Unyamwezi and Urundi, or the barbarous -republics of Uvinza and Ujiji, are designated the Northern Kingdoms. It -is regrettable that oral information, and not the results of actual -investigation, are offered to the reader concerning regions so -interesting as the Southern Tanganyika, the Northern Kingdoms, and the -provinces south of Unyanyembe. But absolute obstacles having interfered, -it was judged advisable to use the labours of others rather than to omit -all notice of a subject which has the importance of novelty, because it -lacked the advantages of a regular exploration. - -Informants agree in representing the northern races as superior in -civilisation and social constitution to the other tribes of Eastern and -Central Africa. Like the subjects of the Kazembe, they have built -extensive and regular settlements, and they reverence even to worship a -single despot, who rules with a rigour which in Europe would be called -barbarity. Having thrown off the rude equality of their neighbours, they -recognise ranks in society; there is order amongst men, and some idea of -honour in women; they add to commerce credit, without which commerce can -hardly exist; and they hospitably entertain strangers and guests. These -accounts are confirmed by the specimens of male and female slaves from -Karagwah and Uganda seen at Unyanyembe: between them and the southern -races there is a marked physical difference. Their heads are of a -superior cast: the regions where the reflective faculties and the moral -sentiments, especially benevolence, are placed, rise high; the nose is -more of the Caucasian type; the immoderate masticating apparatus which -gives to the negro and the lower negroid his peculiar aspect of -animality, is greatly modified, and the expression of the countenance is -soft, kindly, and not deficient in intelligence. - -From Unyanyembe to Kibuga, the capital of Uganda, are fifty-three -stages, which are distributed into four crucial stations of Usui, -Karagwah, dependent Unyoro, and Uganda. A few remarks concerning each of -these divisions may not be unacceptable. - -Between Unyanyembe and Usui are sixteen long, or nineteen short, stages. -Though the road is for the most part rough and hilly, the marches can -scarcely be reduced below ten statute, or six rectilinear geo. miles per -diem; in fact, the geographer’s danger when making these estimates is, -that of falling, through fear of exaggeration, into the opposite and -equally incorrect extreme. The general direction of the line leading -from Kazeh, in Unyanyembe, to Karagwah, pointed out by Snay bin Amir, -bore 345° (corrected 332°); the length of the nineteen marches would be -about 115 geo. miles. The southern frontier of Usui may, therefore, be -safely placed in S. lat. 3° 10′. - -The route from Kazeh to Usui falls at once westward of the line leading -to the Nyanza Lake; it diverges, however, but little at first, as they -both traverse the small districts of Ulikampuri, Unyambewa, and Ukuni. -Usonga, crossed in five short marches, is the first considerable -district north of Unyanyembe. Thence the road enters the province of -Utumbara, which is flanked on the east by Usambiro, and on the west by -Uyungu, governed by the Muhinda Sultan, Kanze. Utumbara, as has been -mentioned, was lately plundered, and Ruhembe, its chief, was slain, by -the predatory Watuta. In Utumbara and Usambiro the people are chiefly -the Wafyoma, a tribe of Wanyamwezi: they are a commercial race, like the -Wajiji--trafficking in hoes and ivory; and their present Sultan, -Mutawazi, has often been visited by the Arabs. Uyofu, governed by -Mnyamurunda, is the northern boundary of Unyamwezi, after which the -route enters the ill famed territory of Usui. - -Usui is traversed in seven marches, making a sum of twenty-six from -Kazeh. According to the former computation, a total march of about 156 -geo. miles would place the southern frontier of Karagwah in S. lat. 2° -40′. The road in several parts discloses a view of the Nyanza Lake. Usui -is described as a kind of neutral ground between the rolling plateau of -Unyamwezi and the highlands of Karagwah: it is broken by ridges in two -places--Nyakasene the fourth, and Ruhembe the seventh stage, where -mention is also made of a small stream. From this part of the country a -wild nutmeg is brought to Kazeh by caravans: the Arabs declare that it -grows upon the well-wooded hills, and the only specimen shown was heavy -and well flavoured, presenting a marked contrast to the poor produce of -Zanzibar island. - -The Wasúí, according to the Arabs, are not Wanyamwezi. They are -considered dangerous, and they have frequently cut off the route to -caravans from Karagwah. Their principal sultan, a Muhinda named -Suwarora, demands exorbitant blackmail, and is described as troublesome -and overbearing: his bad example has been imitated by his minor chiefs. - -The kingdom of Karagwah, which is limited on the north by the Kitangure -or Kitangule River, a great western influent of the Nyanza Lake, -occupies twelve days in traversing. The usual estimate would thus give -it a depth of 72, and place the northern limit about 228 rectilinear -geo. miles from Kazeh, or in S. lat. 1° 40′. But the Kitangure River, -according to the Arabs, falls into the Nyanza diagonally from south-west -to north-east. Its embouchure will, therefore, not be distant from the -equator. The line of road is thus described: After ascending the hills -of Ruhembe the route, deflecting eastward, pursues for three days the -lacustrine plain of the Nyanza. At Tenga, the fourth station, the first -gradient of the Karagwah mountains is crossed, probably at low levels, -where the spurs fall towards the lake. Kafuro is a large district where -merchants halt to trade, in the vicinity of Weranhánjá, the royal -settlement, which commands a distant view of the Nyanza. Nyakahanga, the -eighth stage, is a gradient similar to that of Tenga; and Magugi, the -tenth station, conducts the traveller to the northernmost ridge of -Karagwah. The mountains are described as abrupt and difficult, but not -impracticable for laden asses: they are compared by the Arabs to the -Rubeho chain of Usagara. This would raise them about 4000 feet above the -mean level of the Unyamwezi plateau and the Nyanza water, and about 8000 -feet above this sea. Their surface, according to the Arabs, is -alternately earth and stone, the former covered with plantains and huge -timber-trees, the latter bare, probably by reason of their altitude. -There are no plains, bush, or jungle, but the deep ravines and the -valleys intersecting the various ridges drain the surface of the hills, -and are the sites of luxuriant cultivation. The people of Karagwah, -averse to the labour of felling the patriarchs of the forest, burn -“_bois de vache_,” like the natives of Usukuma. North of Magugi, at -Katanda, a broad flat extends eastwards: the path thence descends the -northern counterslope, and falls into the alluvial plain of the -Kitungure River. - -Karagwah is thus a mass of highlands, bounded on the north by dependent -Unyoro, on the south by Usui, eastward by the tribes of Wahayya and -Wapororo, upon the lacustrine plain of the Nyanza; on the south-west it -inosculates with Urundi, which has been described as extending from the -north-eastern extremity of the Tanganyika Lake. Its equatorial position -and its altitude enable it to represent the Central African prolongation -of the Lunar Mountains. Ptolemy describes this range, which he supposes -to send forth the White Nile, as stretching across the continent for a -distance of 10° of longitude. For many years this traditional feature -has somewhat fallen into discredit: some geographers have changed the -direction of the line, which, like the Himalayas, forms the base of the -South African triangle from east and west to north and south, thus -converting it into a formation akin to the ghauts or lateral ranges of -the Indian peninsula; whilst others have not hesitated to cast ridicule -upon the mythus. From the explorations of the “Mombas Mission” in -Usumbara, Chhaga, and Kitui, and from the accounts of Arab visitors to -the lands of Umasai and the kingdom of Karagwah, it appears that from -the fifth parallel of S. lat. to the equator, an elevated mass of -granite and sandstone formation crosses from the shores of the Indian -Ocean to the centre of Tropical Africa. The vast limestone band which -extends from the banks of the Burramputra to those of the Tagus appears -to be prolonged as far south as the Eastern Horn, and near the equator -to give place to sandstone formations. The line is not, however, as -might be expected from analogy with the Himalayan, a continuous unbroken -chain; it consists of insulated mountains, apparently volcanic, rising -from elevated plains, and sometimes connected by barren and broken -ridges. The south-eastern threshold of the Lunar cordillera is the -highland region of Usumbara, which may attain the height of 3000 or 4000 -feet above sea-level. It leads by a succession of mountain and valley to -Chhaga, whose apex is the “Æthiopian Olympus,” Kilima-Ngao. From this -corner-pillar the line trends westward, and the route to Burkene passes -along the base of the principal elevations, Doengo Engai and Endia -Siriani. Beyond Burkene lies the Nyanza Lake, in a huge gap which, -breaking the continuity of the line, drains the regions westward of -Kilima-Ngao, whilst those to the eastward, the Pangani and other similar -streams, discharge their waters to the south-east into the Indian Ocean. -The kingdom of Karagwah prolongs the line to Urundi, upon the Tanganyika -Lake, where the south-western spurs of the Lunar Mountains form a high -continuous belt. Mr. Petherick, of Khartum, travelling twenty-five -marches, each of twenty miles (?), in a south-south-western and -due-southerly direction from the Bahr el Ghazal, found a granitic ridge -rising, he supposes 2000 to 2500 feet above the plain, near the equator, -and lying nearly upon the same parallel of latitude, and in about 27° E. -long. Beyond that point the land is still unexplored. Thence the -mountains may sink into the great Depression of Central Africa, or, -deflected northwards of the kingdom of Uropua, they may inosculate with -the ridge which, separating the northern negroid races of Islamised -Africa from their negro brethren to the south, is popularly known, -according to Denham and Clapperton, as el-Gibel Gumhr,--Jebel Kamar,--or -Mons Lunæ. - -The high woody hills of Karagwah attract a quantity of rain. The long -and copious wet monsoon divides the year into two seasons--a winter of -seven or eight, and a summer of four or five months. The Vuli, or lesser -rains, commence, as at Zanzibar, with the Nayruz (29th of August); and -they continue with little intermission till the burst of the Masika, -which lasts in Karagwah from October to May or June. The winds, as in -Unyamwezi, are the Kaskazi, or north and north-east gales, which shift -during the heavier falls of rain to the Kosi, the west and south-west. -Storms of thunder and lightning are frequent, and the Arabs compare the -down-pour rather to that of Zanzibar island than to the scanty showers -of Unyamwezi. The sowing season at Karagwah, as at Msene and Ujiji, -begins with the Vuli, when maize and millet, the voandzeia, various -kinds of beans and pulse, are committed to the well-hoed ground. Rice -being unknown, the people depend much upon holcus: this cereal, which is -sown in October to prepare for the Masika in November, has, in the -mountains, a short cane and a poor insipid grain of the red variety. The -people convert it into pombe; and they make the wine called mawa from -the plantains, which in several districts are more abundant than the -cereals. Karagwah grows according to some, according to others imports -from the northern countries, along the western margin of the Nyanza -Lake, a small wild coffee, locally called mwámí. Like all wild -productions, it is stunted and undeveloped, and the bean, which, when -perfect, is about the size of a corking-pin’s head, is never drunk in -decoction. The berry gathered unripe is thrown into hot water to defend -it from rot, or to prevent its drying too rapidly--an operation which -converts the husk to a dark chocolate colour--the people of this country -chew it like tobacco, and, during visits, a handful is invariably -presented to the guest. According to the Arabs, it has, like the kishr -of Yemen, stimulating properties, affects the head, prevents somnolency, -renders water sweet to the taste, and forms a pleasant refreshing -beverage, which the palate, however, never confounds with the taste of -the Mocha-berry. In Karagwah a single khete of beads purchases a kubabah -(from 1 lb. to 2 lbs.) of this coffee; at Kazeh and Msene, where it is -sometimes brought by caravans, it sells at fancy prices. Another -well-known production of all these regions is the mt’hípít’hípí, or -Abrus precatorius, whose scarlet seeds are converted into ornaments for -the head. - -The cattle is a fine variety, with small humps and large horns, like -that of Ujiji and Uviva. The herds are reckoned by Gundu, or stallions, -in the proportion of 1 to 100 cows. The late Sultan Ndagara is said to -have owned 200 Gundu, or 20,000 cows, which late civil wars have reduced -to 12,000 or 13,000. In Karagwah cattle forms wealth, and everywhere in -Africa wealth, and wealth only, secures defenders and dependants. The -surplus males are killed for beef; this meat, with milk in its various -preparations, and a little of the fine white hill-honey, forms the food -of the higher classes. - -The people of Karagwah, who are not, according to South African fashion, -called Wakaragwah, are divided into two orders--Wahuma and Wanyambo--who -seem to bear to each other the relation of patron and client, patrician -and plebeian. The Wahuma comprises the rich, who sometimes possess 1000 -head of cattle, and the warriors, a militia paid in the milk of cows -allotted to their temporary use by the king. The Wanyambo--Fellahs or -Ryots--are, it is said, treated by the nobles as slaves. The men of -Karagwah are a tall stout race, doubtless from the effect of pure -mountain-air and animal food. Corpulence is a beauty: girls are fattened -to a vast bulk by drenches of curds and cream thickened with flour, and -are duly disciplined when they refuse. The Arabs describe them as -frequently growing to a monstrous size, like some specimens of female -Boers mentioned by early travellers in Southern Africa. Fresh milk is -the male, sour the female beverage. The complexion is a brown yellow, -like that of the Warundi. The dress of the people, and even of the -chiefs, is an apron of close-grained mbugu, or bark-cloth, softened with -oil, and crimped with fine longitudinal lines made with a batten or -pounding club. In shape it resembles the flap of an English saddle, tied -by a prolongation of the upper corners round the waist. To this scarcely -decent article the chiefs add a languti, or Indian-T-bandage of goat’s -skin. Nudity is not uncommon, and nubile girls assume the veriest -apology for clothing, which is exchanged after marriage for short kilts -and breast coverings of skin. Both sexes wear tiara-shaped and -cravat-formed ornaments of the crimson abrus-seed, pierced and strung -upon mondo, the fine fibre of the mwale or raphia-palm. The weapons are -bows and arrows, spears, knobsticks, and knives; the ornaments are beads -and coil-bracelets, which, with cattle, form the marriage settlement. -The huts are of the conical and circular African shape, with walls of -stakes and roofs so carefully thatched that no rain can penetrate them: -the villages, as in Usagara, are scattered upon the crests and ridges of -the hills. - -The Mkámá, or Sultan of Karagwah, in 1858, was Armanika, son of Ndagara, -who, although the dignity is in these lands hereditary, was opposed by -his younger brother Rumanika. The rebel, after an obstinate attack, was -routed by Suna, the late despot of Uganda, who, bribed by the large -present of ivory, which was advanced by Musa Mzuri of Kazeh, then -trading with Armanika, threw a large force into the field. Rumanika was -blinded and pensioned, and about four years ago peace was restored. -Armanika resides in the central district, Weranhanja, and his -settlement, inhabited only by the royal family, contains from forty to -fifty huts. He is described as a man about thirty to thirty-five years -old, tall, sturdy, and sinewy-limbed, resembling the Somal. His dress -is, by preference, the mbugu, or bark-cloth, but he has a large store of -fine raiment presented by his Arab visitors: in ornaments he is -distinguished by tight gaiters of beads extending from knee to ankle. -His diet is meat and milk, with sometimes a little honey, plantains, and -grain: unlike his subjects, he eschews mawa and pombe. He has about a -dozen wives, an unusually moderate allowance for an African chief, and -they have borne him ten or eleven children. The royal family is said to -be a race of centagenarians; they are buried in their garments, sitting -and holding their weapons: when the king dies there is a funeral feast. - -Under the Mkama is a single minister, who takes the title of Muhinda, -and presides over the Wakungu, elders and headmen, whose duty it is to -collect and to transmit to the monarch once every month his revenues, -in the shape of slaves and ivory, cattle and provisions. Milk must be -forwarded by proprietors of cows and herds even from a distance of three -days’ march. Armanika is an absolute ruler, and he governs without -squeamishness. Adulterers are punished by heavy fines in cattle, -murderers are speared and beheaded, rebels and thieves are blinded by -gouging out the eyes with the finger-joints of the right-hand, and -severing the muscles. Subjects are forbidden to sell milk to those who -eat beans or salt, for fear of bewitching the animals. The Mkama, who -lives without state or splendour, receives travellers with courtesy. -Hearing of their approach, he orders his slaves to erect four or five -tents for shelter, and he greets them with a large present of -provisions. He demands no blackmail, but the offerer is valued according -to his offerings: the return gifts are carefully proportioned, and for -beads which suit his taste he has sent back an acknowledgment of fifty -slaves and forty cows. The price of adult male slaves varies from eight -to ten fundo of white, green, or blue porcelain-beads: a woman in her -prime costs two kitindi (each equal to one dollar on the coast), and -five or six fundo of mixed beasts. Some of these girls, being -light-coloured and well favoured, sell for sixty dollars at Zanzibar. -The merchants agree in stating that a European would receive in Karagwah -the kindest welcome, but that to support the dignity of the white face a -considerable sum would be required. Arabs still visit Armanika to -purchase slaves, cattle, and ivory, the whitest and softest, the largest -and heaviest in this part of Central Africa. The land is rich in iron, -and the spears of Karagwah, which are, to some extent, tempered, are -preferred to the rude work of the Wafyoma. Sulphur is found, according -to the Arabs, near hot springs amongst the mountains. A species of -manatus (?) supplies a fine skin used for clothing. The simbi, or cowrie -(Cypræa), is the minor currency of the country: it is brought from the -coast by return caravans of Wanyamwezi. - -The country of Karagwah is at present the head-quarters of the Watosi, a -pastoral people who are scattered throughout these Lake Regions. They -came, according to tradition, from Usingo, a mountain district lying to -the north of Uhha. They refuse to carry loads, to cultivate the ground, -or to sell one another. Harmless, and therefore unarmed, they are often -plundered, though rarely slain, by other tribes, and they protect -themselves by paying fees in cattle to the chiefs. When the Wahinda are -sultans, the Watosi appear as councillors and elders; but whether this -rank is derived from a foreign and superior origin, or is merely the -price of their presents, cannot be determined. In appearance they are a -tall, comely, and comparatively fair people; hence in some parts every -“distinguished foreigner” is complimented by being addressed as “Mtosi.” -They are said to derive themselves from a single ancestor, and to -consider the surrounding tribes as serviles, from whom they will take -concubines, but to whom they refuse their daughters. Some lodges of this -people were seen about Unyanyembe and Msene, where they live by selling -cattle, milk, and butter. Their villages are poor, dirty, and -unpalisaded; mere scatters of ragged round huts. They have some curious -practices: never eat out of their own houses, and, after returning from -abroad, test, by a peculiar process, the fidelity of their wives before -anointing themselves and entering their houses. The Arabs declare that -they are known by their black gums, which they consider a beauty. - -The last feature of importance in Karagwah is the Kitangure River on its -northern frontier. This stream, deriving its name from a large -settlement on its banks, according to some travellers flows through a -rocky trough, according to others it traverses a plain. Some, again, -make it thirty yards, others 600, and even half a mile, in breadth. All -these statements are reconcileable. The river issues from Higher Urundi, -not far from the Malagarazi; but whilst the latter, engaged in the -Depression of Central Africa, is drawn towards the Tanganyika, the -former, falling into the counterslope, is directed to the north-east -into the Nyanza Lake. Its course would thus lie through a -mountain-valley, from which it issues into a lacustrine plain, the -lowlands of Unyoro and Uganda. The dark and swift stream must be crossed -in canoes even during the dry season, but, like the Malagarazi, about -June or at the end of the rains, it debords over the swampy lands of its -lower course. - -From the Kitangure River fifteen stations conduct the traveller to -Kibuga, the capital district of Uganda, and the residence of its -powerful despot. The maximum of these marches would be six daily, or a -total of ninety rectilinear geographical miles. Though there are no -hills, the rivers and rivulets--said to be upwards of a hundred in -number--offer serious obstacles to rapid travelling. Assuming then, the -point where the Kitangure River is crossed to be in S. lat. 1° 14′, -Kibuga may be placed in S. lat. 0° 10′. Beyond Weranhanja no traveller -with claims to credibility has seen the Nyanza water. North of Kibuga -all is uncertain; the Arabs were not permitted by Suna, the last despot, -to penetrate farther north. - -The two first marches from the Kitangure River traverse the territory -of “dependent Unyoro,” so called because it has lately become subject to -the Sultan of Uganda. In former times Unyoro in crescent-shape, with the -cusps fronting eastwards and westwards, almost encompassed Uganda. From -dependent Unyoro the path, crossing a tract of low jungle, enters Uganda -in the concave of the crescent. The tributary Wahayya, under Gaetawa, -their sultan, still extend to the eastward. North of the Wahayya, of -whose territory little is known, lies “Kittara,” in Kinyoro (or -Kiganda?), a word interpreted to mean “mart,” or “meeting-place.” This -is the region which supplies Karagwah with coffee. The shrub is -propagated by sowing the bean. It attains the height of five feet, -branching out about half-way; it gives fruit after the third, and is in -full vigour after the fifth year. Before almost every hut-door there is -a plantation, forming an effective feature in the landscape of rolling -and wavy hill, intersected by a network of rivers and streams: the -foliage is compared to a green tapestry veiling the ground; and at -times, when the leaves are stripped off by wind and rain, the plant -appears decked with brilliant crimson cherry-like berries. The Katonga -River, crossed at Kitutu, is supposed to fall into the Nyanza, the -general recipient of the network of streams about Karagwah. This -diagonality may result from the compound incline produced by the -northern counterslope of the mountains of Karagwah and the -south-westward depression necessary to form and to supply the lake. The -Katonga is a sluggish and almost stagnant body of considerable breadth, -and when swollen it arrests the progress of caravans. Some portions of -the river are crossed, according to the Arabs, over a thick growth of -aquatic vegetation, which forms a kind of matwork, capable of -supporting a man’s weight, and cattle are towed over in the more open -parts by cords attached to their horns. Four stations lead from the -Katonga River to Kibuga, the capital district of Uganda. - -Kibuga is the residence of the great Mkámá or chief of Uganda. -Concerning its population and peculiarities the Arabs must be allowed to -tell their own tale. “Kibuga, the settlement, is not less than a day’s -journey in length; the buildings are of cane and rattan. The sultan’s -palace is at least a mile long, and the circular huts, neatly ranged in -line, are surrounded by a strong fence which has only four gates. Bells -at the several entrances announce the approach of strangers, and guards -in hundreds attend there at all hours. They are commanded by four -chiefs, who are relieved every second day: these men pass the night -under hides raised upon uprights, and their heads are forfeited if they -neglect to attend to the summons of the king. The harem contains about -3000 souls--concubines, slaves, and children. No male nor adult animal -may penetrate, under pain of death, beyond the Barzah, a large vestibule -or hall of audience where the king dispenses justice and receives his -customs. This palace has often been burned down by lightning: on these -occasions the warriors must assemble and extinguish the fire by rolling -over it. The chief of Uganda has but two wants with which he troubles -his visitors--one, a medicine against death; the other, a charm to avert -the thunderbolt: and immense wealth would reward the man who could -supply either of these desiderata.” - -Suna, the great despot of Uganda, a warlike chief, who wrested dependent -Unyoro from its former possessor, reigned till 1857. He perished in the -prime of life and suddenly, as the Arabs say, like Namrud, whilst -riding “pickaback”--the state carriage of Central Africa--upon a -minister’s shoulders, he was struck by the shaft of the destroyer in the -midst of his mighty host. As is the custom of barbarous and despotic -races, the event was concealed for some months. When the usual time had -expired, one of his many sons, exchanging his heir-elective name -“Sámunjú” for Mtesa, became king. The court usage compels the newly -elected chief to pass two years in retirement, committing state affairs -to his ministers; little, therefore, is yet known of him. As he will -certainly tread in the footsteps of his sire, the Arabs may again be -allowed to describe the state and grandeur of the defunct Suna; and as -Suna was in fact the whole kingdom of Uganda, the description will -elucidate the condition of the people in general. - -“The army of Uganda numbers at least 300,000 men; each brings an egg to -muster, and thus something like a reckoning of the people is made. Each -soldier carries one spear, two assegais, a long dagger, and a shield, -bows and swords being unknown. When marching the host is accompanied by -women and children carrying spare weapons, provisions, and water. In -battle they fight to the sound of drums, which are beaten with sticks -like those of the Franks: should this performance cease, all fly the -field. Wars with the Wanyoro, the Wasoga, and other neighbours are -rendered almost chronic by the policy as well as the pleasure of the -monarch, and there are few days on which a foraging party does not march -from or return to the capital. When the king has no foreign enemies, or -when the exchequer is indecently deficient, he feigns a rebellion, -attacks one of his own provinces, massacres the chief men, and sells off -the peasantry. Executions are frequent, a score being often slain at a -time: when remonstrated with concerning this barbarity, Sana declared -that he had no other secret for keeping his subjects in awe of him, and -for preventing conspiracies. Sometimes the king would accompany his army -to a battue of game, when the warriors were expected to distinguish -themselves by attacking the most ferocious beasts without weapons: even -the elephant, borne down by numbers, yielded to the grasp of man. When -passing a village he used to raise a shout, which was responded to by a -loud flourish of horns, reed-pipes, iron whistles, and similar -instruments. At times he decreed a grand muster of his soldiery: he -presented himself sitting before his gate, with a spear in the right -hand, and holding in the left the leash of a large and favourite dog -resembling an Arab suluki or greyhound. The master of the hounds was an -important personage. Suna took great pleasure in witnessing trials of -strength, the combatants contending with a mixture of slapping and -pushing till one fell to the ground. He had a large menagerie of lions, -elephants, leopards, and similar beasts of disport, to whom he would -sometimes give a criminal as a ‘_curée_:’ he also kept for amusement -fifteen or sixteen albinos; and so greedy was he of novelty that even a -cock of peculiar or uniform colour would have been forwarded by its -owner to feed his eyes.” - -Suna when last visited by the Arabs was a “red man,” aged about -forty-five, tall, robust, and powerful of limb, with a right kingly -presence and a warrior carriage. His head was so shaven as to leave what -the Omani calls “el Kishshah,” a narrow crest of hair like a cock’s -comb, from nape to brow; nodding and falling over his face under its -weight of strung beads, it gave him a fierce and formidable aspect. -This tonsure, confined to those about the palace, distinguishes its -officers and inmates, servile as well as free, from the people. The -Ryots leave patches of hair where they please, but they may not shave -the whole scalp under pain of death, till a royal edict unexpectedly -issued at times commands every head to shed its honours. Suna never -appeared in public without a spear; his dress was the national costume, -a long piece of the fine crimped mbugu or bark-cloth manufactured in -these regions, extending from the neck to the ground. He made over to -his women the rich clothes presented by the Arabs, and allowed them to -sew with unravelled cotton thread, whereas the people under severe -penalties were compelled to use plantain fibre. No commoner could wear -domestics or similar luxuries; and in the presence, the accidental -exposure of a limb led, according to the merchants, to the normal -penalty--death. - -Suna, like the northern despots generally, had a variety of names, all -expressing something bitter, mighty, or terrible, as, for instance, -Lbare, the Almighty (?); Mbidde and Purgoma, a lion. He could not -understand how the Sultan of Zanzibar allowed his subjects treasonably -to assume the name of their ruler; and besides mortifying the Arabs by -assuming an infinite superiority over their prince, he shocked them by -his natural and unaffected impiety. He boasted to them that he was the -god of earth, as their Allah was the Lord of Heaven. He murmured loudly -against the abuse of lightning; and he claimed from his subjects divine -honours, which were as readily yielded to him as by the facile Romans to -their emperors. No Mgándá would allow the omnipotence of his sultan to -be questioned, and a light word concerning him would have imperilled a -stranger’s life. Suna’s domestic policy reminds the English reader of -the African peculiarities which form the groundwork of “Rasselas.” His -sons, numbering more than one hundred, were removed from the palace in -early youth to separate dungeons, and so secured with iron collars and -fetters fastened to both ends of a long wooden bar that the wretches -could never sit, and without aid could neither rise nor lie. The -heir-elective was dragged from his chains to fill a throne, and the -cadets will linger through their dreadful lives, unless wanted as -sovereigns, until death release them. Suna kept his female children -under the most rigid surveillance within the palace: he had, however, a -favourite daughter named Nasuru, whose society was so necessary to him -that he allowed her to appear with him in public. - -The principal officers under the despot of Uganda are, first, the Kimara -Vyona (literally the “finisher of all things”): to him, the chief -civilian of the land, the city is committed; he also directs the kabaka -or village headmen. The second is the Sakibobo or commander-in-chief, -who has power over the Sáwágánzí, the life-guards and slaves, the -warriors and builders of the palace. Justice is administered in the -capital by the sultan, who, though severe, is never accused of -perverting the law, which here would signify the ancient custom of the -country. A Mhozi--Arabised to Hoz, and compared with the Kazi of el -Islam--dispenses in each town criminal and civil rights. The only -punishments appear to be death and mulcts. Capital offenders are -beheaded or burned; in some cases they are flayed alive; the operation -commences with the face, and the skin, which is always much torn by the -knife, is stuffed as in the old torturing days of Asia. When a criminal -absconds, the males of his village are indiscriminately slain and the -women are sold--blood and tears must flow for discipline. In money suits -each party begins by placing before the Mhozi a sum equivalent to the -disputed claim; the object is to prevent an extensive litigiousness. -Suna used to fine by fives or tens, dozens or scores, according to the -offender’s means; thus from a wealthy man he would take twenty male and -twenty female slaves, with a similar number of bulls and cows, goats and -kids, hens and even eggs. One of his favourites, who used constantly to -sit by him on guard, matchlock in hand, was Isa bin Hosayn, a Baloch -mercenary of H. H. Sayyid Said of Zanzibar. He had fled from his -debtors, and had gradually wandered to Uganda, where the favour of the -sovereign procured him wealth in ivory, and a harem containing from 200 -to 300 women. “Mzagayya,”--the hairy one, as he was locally called, from -his long locks and bushy beard--was not permitted, nor probably did he -desire, to quit the country; after his patron’s death he fled to -independent Unyoro, having probably raised up, as these adventurers -will, a host of enemies at Uganda. - -Suna greatly encouraged, by gifts and attention, the Arab merchants to -trade in his capital; the distance has hitherto prevented more than -half-a-dozen caravans travelling to Kibuga; all however came away loudly -praising his courtesy and hospitality. To a poor trader he has presented -twenty slaves, and an equal number of cows, without expecting any but -the humblest return. The following account of a visit paid to him in -1852, by Snay bin Amir, may complete his account of the despot Uganda. -When the report of arrival was forwarded by word of mouth to Suna, he -issued orders for the erection of as many tents as might be necessary. -The guest, who was welcomed with joyful tumult by a crowd of gazers, and -was conducted to the newly-built quarters, where he received a present -of bullocks and grain, plantains and sugar-canes. After three or four -days for repose, he was summoned to the Barzah or audience hall, outside -of which he found a squatting body of about 2000 guards armed only with -staves. Allowed to retain his weapons, he entered with an interpreter -and saluted the chief, who, without rising, motioned his guest to sit -down in front of him. Suna’s only cushion was a mbugu; his dress was of -the same stuff; two spears lay close at hand, and his dog was as usual -by his side. The Arab thought proper to assume the posture of homage, -namely, to sit upon his shins, bending his back, and, with eyes fixed on -the ground--he had been cautioned against staring at the “god of -earth,”--to rest his hands upon his lap. The levee was full; at a -distance of fifty paces between the king and the guards sat the -ministers; and inside the palace, so placed that they could see nothing -but the visitor’s back, were the principal women, who are forbidden to -gaze at or to be gazed at by a stranger. The room was lit with torches -of a gummy wood, for Suna, who eschewed pombe, took great pleasure in -these audiences, which were often prolonged from sunset to midnight. - -The conversation began with a string of questions concerning Zanzibar, -the route, the news, and the other staple topics of barbarous -confabulation; when it flagged, a minister was called up to enliven it. -No justice was administered nor present offered during the first -audience; it concluded with the despot rising, at which signal all -dispersed. At the second visit Snay presented his blackmail, which -consisted of ten cotton cloths, and one hundred fundo of coral, and -other porcelain beads. The return was an offering of two ivories and a -pair of serviles; every day, moreover, flesh and grain, fruit and milk -were supplied without charge; whenever the wish was expressed, a string -of slave-girls presently appeared bending under loads of the article in -question; and it was intimated to the “king’s stranger” that he might -lay hands upon whatever he pleased, animate or inanimate. Snay, however, -was too wise to avail himself of this truly African privilege. During -the four interviews which followed, Suna proved himself a man of -intelligence: he inquired about the Wazungu or Europeans, and professed -to be anxious for a closer alliance with the Sultan of Zanzibar. When -Snay took leave he received the usual present of provisions for the -road, and 200 guards prepared to escort him, an honour which he -respectfully declined: Suna offered to send with him several loads of -elephants’ tusks as presents to H. H. the Sayyid; but the merchant -declined to face with them the difficulties and dangers of Usúí. Like -all African chiefs, the despot considered these visits as personal -honours paid to himself; his pride therefore peremptorily forbade -strangers to pass northwards of his capital, lest the lesser and hostile -chiefs might boast a similar brave. According to Snay, an European would -be received with distinction, if travelling with supplies to support his -dignity. He would depend, however, upon his ingenuity and good fortune -upon further progress; and perhaps the most feasible plan to explore the -water-shed north of the Nyanza Lake would be to buy or to build, with -the permission of the reigning monarch, boats upon the nearest western -shore. Suna himself, had, according to Snay, constructed a flotilla of -matumbi or undecked vessels similar in shape to the Mtope or -Muntafiyah--the modern “Ploiaria Rhapta” of the Sawahili coast from Lamu -to Kilwa. - -Few details were given by the Arabs concerning the vulgar herd of -Waganda: they are, as has been remarked, physically a finer race than -the Wayamwezi, and they are as superior in character; more docile and -better disciplined, they love small gifts, and show their gratitude by -prostrating themselves before the donor. The specimens of slaves seen at -Kazeh were, however, inferior to the mountaineers of Karagwah; the -complexion was darker, and the general appearance more African. Their -language is, to use an Arab phrase, like that of birds, soft and quickly -spoken; the specimens collected prove without doubt that it belongs to -the Zangian branch of the great South-African family. Their normal dress -is the mbugu, under which, however, all wear the “languti” or -Indian-T-bandage of goatskin; women appear in short kilts and -breast-coverings of the same material. Both sexes decorate their heads -with the tiara of abrus-seeds alluded to when describing the people of -Karagwah. As sumptuary laws impede the free traffic of cloth into -Uganda, the imports are represented chiefly by beads, cowries, and brass -and copper wires. The wealth of the country is in cattle, ivory, and -slaves, the latter often selling for ten fundo of beads, and the same -sum will purchase the Wasoga and Wanyoro captives from whom the despot -derives a considerable portion of his revenues. The elephant is rare in -Uganda; tusks are collected probably by plunder from Usoga, and the -alakah of about ninety Arab pounds is sold for two slaves, male or -female. The tobacco, brought to market in leaf, as in Ujiji, and not -worked, as amongst the other tribes, is peculiarly good. Flesh, sweet -potatoes, and the highly nutritious plantain, which grows in groves a -whole day’s march long, are the chief articles of diet; milk is drunk -by women only, and ghee is more valued for unction than for cookery. The -favourite inebrients are mawa and pombe; the latter is served in neatly -carved and coloured gourds, and the contents are imbibed, like sherry -cobbler, through a reed. - -From Kibuga the Arabs have heard that between fifteen and twenty marches -lead to the Kivira River, a larger and swifter stream than the Katonga, -which forms the northern limit of Uganda, and the southern frontier of -Unyoro. They are unable to give the names of stations. South of Kivira -is Usoga, a low alluvial land, cut by a multitude of creeks, islets, and -lagoons; in their thick vegetation the people take refuge from the -plundering parties of the Waganda, whose chief built, as has been told, -large boats to dislodge them. The Wasoga have no single sultan, and -their only marketable commodity is ivory. - -On the north, the north-west, and the west of Uganda lies, according to -the Arabs, the land of Independent Unyoro. The slaves from that country -vaguely describe it as being bounded on the north-west by a tribe called -Wakede, who have a currency of cowries, and wear tiaras of the shell; -and the Arabs have heard that on the north-east there is a “people with -long daggers like the Somal,” who may be Gallas (?). But whether the -Nyanza Lake extends north of the equator is a question still to be -decided. Those consulted at Kazeh ignored even the name of the -Nyam-nyam; nor had they heard of the Bahri and Barri, the Shilluks on -the west, and the Dinkas east of the Nile, made familiar to us by the -Austrian Mission at Gondokoro, and other explorers. - -The Wanyoro are a distinct race, speaking a language of the Zangian -family: they have suffered from the vicinity of the more warlike -Waganda, who have affixed to the conquered the opprobrious name of widdu -or “serviles;” and they have lost their southern possessions, which -formerly extended between Karagwah and Uganda. Their late despot -Chawambi, whose death occurred about ten years ago, left three sons, one -of whom it is reported has fallen into the power of Uganda, whilst the -two others still rule independently. The county is rich and fertile, and -magnificent tales are told concerning the collections of ivory, which in -some parts are planted in the ground to pen cattle. Slaves are cheap; -they find their way to the southern markets _viâ_ Uganda and Karagwah. -Those seen at Kazeh and Kirira, where the Arab traders had a large gang, -appeared somewhat inferior to the other races of the northern kingdoms, -with a dull dead black colour, flattish heads, brows somewhat -retreating, prominent eyes, and projecting lower jaws. They were -tattooed in large burnt blotches encircling the forehead, and in some -cases the inferior excisors had been extracted. The price of cattle in -Unyoro varies from 500 to 1000 cowries. In this country ten simbi -(Cypræa) represent one khete of beads; they are the most esteemed -currency, and are also used as ornaments for the neck, arms, and legs, -and decorations for stools and drums. - -During my companions’ absence much of my spare time was devoted to -collecting specimens of the multitudinous dialects into which the great -South African family here divides itself. After some months of desultory -work I had learned the Kisawahili or coast language, the lingua Franca -of the South African coast: it is the most useful, because the most -generally known, and because, once mastered, it renders its cognates as -easy of acquirement as Bengali or Maharatti after Hindostani. The -principal obstacle is the want of instructors and books--the Kisawahili -is not a written language; and the elementary publications put forth in -Europe gave me the preliminary trouble of composing a grammar and a -vocabulary. Said Bin Salim, though bred and born amongst the Wasawahili, -knew but little of the tongue, and his peculiarities of disposition -rendered the task of instruction as wearisome to himself as it was -unsatisfactory to me. My best tutor was Snay Bin Amir, who had -transferred to the philology of East Africa his knowledge of Arabic -grammar and syntax. With the aid of the sons of Ramji and other tame -slaves, I collected about 1500 words in the three principal dialects -upon this line of road, namely the Kisawahili, the Kizaramo--which -includes the Kik’hutu--and the Kinyamwezi. At Kazeh I found a number of -wild captives, with whom I began the dreary work of collecting -specimens. In the languages of least consideration I contented myself -with the numerals, which are the fairest test of independence of -derivation, because the most likely to be primitive vocables. The work -was not a labour of love. The savages could not guess the mysterious -objects of my inquiry into their names for 1, 2, and 3; often they -started up and ran away, or they sat in dogged silence, perhaps thinking -themselves derided. The first number was rarely elicited without half an -hour’s “talkee-talkee” somewhat in this style:-- - -“Listen, O my brother! in the tongue of the shores (Kisawahili) we say -1, 2, 3, 4, 5”--counting the fingers to assist comprehension. - -“Hu! hu!” replies the wild man, “_we_ say fingers.” - -“By no means, that’s not it. This white man wants to know how thou -speakest 1, 2, 3?” - -“One, two, three what? sheep, or goats, or women?”--expressing the -numerals in Kisawahili. - -“By no means, only 1, 2, 3 sheep in thine own tongue, the tongue of the -Wapoka.” - -“Hi! Hi! what wants the white man with the Wapoka?” - -And so on till patience was almost impossible. But, like the Irish -shay-horse of days gone by, their tongues once started often hobbled on -without halting. The tame slaves were more tractable, yet even in their -case ten minutes sufficed to weary out the most intellectual; when the -listless and incoherent reply, the glazed eye gazing at vacancy, and the -irresistible tendency to gape and yawn, to nod and snooze, evidenced a -feeble brain soon overworked. Said Bin Salim would sit staring at me -with astonishment, and ejaculate, like Abba Gregorius, the preceptor of -Ludolph, the grammarian philologist and historian of Æthiopia, “Verily -in the coast-tongue words never take root, nor do they bear branches.” - -The rest of my time was devoted to preparations for journeying. The -Fundi’s tent, which had accompanied us to Uvira, was provided with an -outer cover. The Sepoys’ “pal,” brought from Zanzibar, having been -destroyed by the ill-treatment of the villain Kannena, I made up, with -the aid of a blackguard Baghdadi, named ’Brahim, a large tent of -American domestics, which having, however, but one cloth, and that of -the thinnest, proved a fiery purgatory on the down-march eastwards. The -canvas lug-sail was provided with an extra double cloth, sewn round the -top to increase its dimensions: it thus became a pent-shaped affair, -twelve feet long, eight broad, and six feet high--seven would have been -better,--buttoned at the foot, which was semicircular, and in front -provided with blue cotton curtains, most useful against glare and -stare. Its lightness, combined with impenetrability, made it the model -of a tent for rapid marching. It was not, however, pegged down close to -the ground, as some explorers advise, without the intervention of ropes; -in these lands, a tent so pitched would rot in a week. The three tents -were fitted with solid male bamboos, and were provided with skin-bags -for their pegs, which, unless carefully looked after, disappear almost -daily. The only furniture was a kitanda or cartel: some contrivance of -the kind, a “Biddulph,” or an iron bed-frame, without joints, nuts, or -screws, which are sure to break or to be lost, is absolutely necessary -in these lands, where from Kaole to Uvira every man instinctively -attempts to sit and to sleep upon something that raises him above the -ground. Moreover, I have ever found the cartel answer the threefold -purpose of bed, chair, and table; besides saving weight by diminishing -the quantity of bedding required. - -To the task of tent-making succeeded tailoring. We had neglected to -provide ourselves with the loose blanket suits, served out to sailors on -board men-of-war in the tropics: they are most useful in passing through -countries where changes of climate are sudden and marked. Besides these, -the traveller should carry with him an ample store of flannels: the -material must be shrunk before making up shirts, otherwise it will -behave as did the Little Boy’s mantle when tried by the frail fair -Guinever. A red colour should moreover be avoided, the dye soon turns -dark, and the appearance excites too much attention. Besides shirt and -trousers, the only necessary is a large “stomach-warmer” waistcoat, with -sleeves and back of similar material, without collar--which renders -sleeping in it uneasy--and provided with four flapped pockets, to -contain a compass and thermometer, a note-book, and a sketch-book, a -watch and a moderate-sized knife of many uses. The latter should contain -scissors, tweezers, tooth-pick, and ear-pick, needle, file, picker, -steel for fire, turnscrew, watch-spring-saw, clasp blade, and pen blade: -it should be made of moderate dimensions, and for safety be slung by a -lanyard to the button-hole. For the cold mornings and the noon-day -heats, I made up a large padded hood, bound round the head like the Arab -Kufiyah. Too much cannot be said in favour of this article, which in -eastward travel defends the eyes from the fiery glare, protects, when -wending westwards, the carotids against the solar blaze, and, at all -times, checks the intrusive staring of the crowd. I reformed my -umbrella, ever an invaluable friend in these latitudes, by removing the -rings and wires from the worm-eaten stick, and by mounting them on a -spear, thus combining with shelter a staff and a weapon. The traveller -should have at least three umbrellas, one large and water proof--white, -not black--in the shape of those used by artists; and two others of -moderate size, and of the best construction, which should be covered -with light-coloured calico, as an additional defence against the sun. At -Kazeh I was somewhat deficient in material: my lazy “Jack of all -trades,” Valentine, made, however, some slippers of green baize, soled -with leather, for me, overalls of American domestics for my companion, -and various articles of indigo-dyed cotton for himself and his -fellow-servant, who presently appeared tastefully rigged out like Paul -and Virginia in “Bengal blue.” - -The minor works were not many. The two remaining portmanteaus of the -three that had left the Coast were cobbled with goatskins, and were -bound with stout thongs. The hammocks, of which half had disappeared, -were patched and provided with the Nara, or Indian cotton-tape, which -in these climates is better than either reims or cord. To save my eyes -the spectacle of moribund fowls, suspended to a porter’s pole, two light -cages were made after the fashion of the country, with bent and bound -withes. The metal plates, pots, and pans were furbished, and a damaged -kettle was mended by a travelling tinker: the asses’ saddles and halters -were repaired, and, greatest luxury of all, a brace of jembe or iron -hoes was converted into two pairs of solid stirrups, under the vigilant -eye of Snay bin Amir. A party of slaves sent to Msene brought back -fifty-four jembe, useful as return-presents and blackmail on the -down-march: they paid, however, one cloth for two, instead of four. -Sallum bin Hamid, the “papa” of the Arabs, sold for the sum of forty -dollars a fine half-bred Zanzibar she-ass and foal--there is no surer -method of procuring a regular supply of milk on Eastern journeys. My -black and white beads being almost useless, he also parted with, as a -peculiar favour, seventeen or eighteen pounds of pink-porcelains for -forty dollars, and with a Frasibah of coffee, and a similar quantity of -sugar for eighty dollars, equal to sixteen pounds sterling. On the 14th -July the last Arab caravan of the season left Unyanyembe, under the -command of Sayf bin Said el Wardi. As he obligingly offered to convey -letters and any small articles which I wished to precede me, and knowing -that under his charge effects were far safer than with our own people, I -forwarded the useless and damaged surveying instruments, certain -manuscripts, and various enclosures of maps, field and sketch-books, -together with reports to the Royal Geographical Society. - -This excitement over I began to weary of Kazeh. Snay bin Amir and most -of the Arabs had set out on an expedition to revenge the murder of old -Silim--an event alluded to in a former page, and the place had become -dull as a mess-dinner. Said bin Salim, who was ill, who coughed and -expectorated, and sincerely pitied himself because he had a cold, became -more than usually unsociable: he could enjoy nothing but the society of -Brahim, the bawling Baghdadi, and the crowd of ill-flavoured slavery -that flocked into the vestibule. My Goanese servant, who connected my -aspect with hard labour, avoided it like a pestilence. Already I was -preparing to organise a little expedition to K’hokoro and the southern -provinces, when unexpectedly,--in these lands a few cries and gun-shots -are the only credible precursors of a caravan,--on the morning of the -25th August reappeared my companion. - -At length my companion had been successful, his “flying trip” had led -him to the northern water, and he had found its dimensions surpassing -our most sanguine expectations. We had scarcely, however, breakfasted, -before he announced to me the startling fact, that he had discovered the -sources of the White Nile. It was an inspiration perhaps: the moment he -sighted the Nyanza, he felt at once no doubt but that the “Lake at his -feet gave birth to that interesting river which has been the subject of -so much speculation, and the object of so many explorers.” The fortunate -discoverer’s conviction was strong; his reasons were weak--were of the -category alluded to by the damsel Lucetta, when justifying her penchant -in favour of the “lovely gentleman,” Sir Proteus:-- - - “I have no other but a woman’s reason. - I think him so because I think him so;”[11] - -and probably his sources of the Nile grew in his mind as his Mountains -of the Moon had grown under his hand. - - [11] The following extract from the Proceedings of the R. Geographical - Society, May 9, 1859, will best illustrate what I mean:-- - - MR. MACQUEEN, F.R.G.S., said the question of the sources of the Nile - had cost him much trouble and research, and he was sure there was no - material error either in longitude or latitude in the position he had - ascribed to them, namely, a little to the eastward of the meridian of - 35°, and a little northward of the equator. That was the principal - source of the White Nile. The mountains there were exceedingly high, - from the equator north to Kaffa Enarea. All the authorities, from - east, west, north, or south, now perfectly competent to form judgments - upon such a matter, agreed with him; and among them were the officers - commanding the Egyptian commission. It was impossible they could all - be mistaken. Dr. Krapf had been within a very short distance of it; he - was more than 180 miles from Mombas, and he saw snow upon the - mountains. He conversed with the people who came from them, and who - told him of the snow and exceeding coldness of the temperature. The - line of perpetual congelation, it was well known, was 17,000 feet - above the sea. He had an account of the navigation of the White Nile - by the Egyptian expedition. It was then given as 3° 30′ N. lat. and - 31° E. long. At this point the expedition turned back for want of a - sufficient depth of water. Here the river was 1370 feet broad, and the - velocity of the current _one-quarter_ of a mile per hour. The journals - also gave a specific and daily current, the depth and width of the - river, and every thing, indeed, connected with it. Surely, looking at - the current of the river, the height of the Cartoom above the level of - the sea, and the distance thence up to the equator, the sources of the - Nile must be 6000 or 8000 feet above the level of the sea, and still - much below the line of the snow, which was 6000 or 8000 feet farther - above them. He deeply regretted he was unable to complete the diagram - for the rest of the papers he had given to the Society, for it was - more important than any others he had previously given. It contained - the journey over Africa from sea to sea, second only to that of Dr. - Livingstone. But all the rivers coming down from the mountains in - question, and running south-eastward, had been clearly stated by Dr. - Krapf, who gave every particular concerning them. He should like to - know what the natives had said was to the northward of the large lake? - Did they say the rivers ran out from or into the lake? How could the - Egyptian officers be mistaken? - - CAPTAIN SPEKE replied. They were not mistaken; and if they had pursued - their journey 50 miles farther, they would undoubtedly have found - themselves at the northern borders of this lake. - - MR. MACQUEEN said that other travellers, Don Angelo for instance, had - been within one and a half degree of the Equator, and saw the mountain - of Kimborat under the Line, and persisted in the statement, adding, - that travellers had been up the river until they found it a mere - brook. He felt convinced that the large lake alluded to by Captain - Speke was not the source of the Nile: it was impossible it could be - so, for it was not at a sufficiently high altitude. - - The paper presented to the Society, when fully read in conjunction - with the map, will clearly show that the Bahr-el-Abied has no - connection with Kilimanjaro, that it has no connection whatever with - any lake or river to the south of the Equator, and that the swelling - of the river Nile proceeds from the tropical rains of the northern - torrid zone, as was stated emphatically to Julius Cæsar by the chief - Egyptian priest Amoreis 2000 years ago. - - In nearly 3° N. lat. there is a great cataract, which boats cannot - pass. It is called Gherba. About half-way (50 miles) above, and - between this cataract and Robego, the capital of Kuenda, the river - becomes so narrow as to be crossed by a bridge formed by a tree thrown - across it. Above Gherba no stream joins the river either from the - south or south-west. - -The main argument in favour of the Lake representing the great reservoir -of the White River was, that the “principal men” at the southern -extremity ignored the extent northward. “On my inquiring about the -lake’s length the man (the greatest traveller in the place) faced to the -north, and began nodding his head to it; at the same time he kept -throwing forward his right hand, and making repeated snaps of his -fingers endeavoured to indicate something immeasurable; and added, that -nobody knew, but he thought it probably extended to the end of the -world.” Strongly impressed by this valuable statistical information, my -companion therefore placed the northern limit about 4°-5° north lat., -whereas the Egyptian expedition sent by the late Mohammed Ali Pacha, -about twenty years ago, to explore the Coy Sources, reached 3° 22′ north -lat. It therefore ought to have sailed fifty miles upon the Nyanza lake. -On the contrary, from information derived on the spot, that expedition -placed the fountains at one month’s journey--300 to 350 miles--to the -south-east, or upon the northern counterslope of Mount Kenia. Whilst -marching to the coast, my companion--he tells us--was assured by a -“respectable Sowahili merchant, that when engaged in traffic some years -previously to the northward of the line, and the westward of this lake, -he had heard it commonly reported that large vessels frequented the -northern extremity of these waters, in which the officers engaged in -navigating them used sextants and kept a log, precisely similar to what -is found in vessels on the ocean. Query, could this be in allusion to -the expedition sent by Mohammed Ali up the Nile in former years?” -(Proceedings of Royal Geographical Society, May 9, 1859.) Clearly, if -Abdullah Bin Nasib, the Msawahili alluded to, had reported these words, -he merely erred; the Egyptian expedition, as has been shown, not only -did not find, they never even heard of a lake. But not being present at -the conversation I am tempted to assign further explanation. My -companion, wholly ignorant of Arabic, was reduced to depend upon -“Bombay,” who spoke an even more debased dialect than his master, and it -is easy to see how the blunder originated. The Arabic bahr and the -Kisawahili bahari are equally applicable in vulgar parlance to a river -or sea, a lake or a river. Traditions concerning a Western Sea--the to -them now unknown Atlantic--over which the white men voyage, are familiar -to many East Africans; I have heard at Harar precisely the same report -concerning the log and sextants. Either, then, Abdullah Bin Nasib -confounded, or my companion’s “interrupter” caused him to confound the -Atlantic and the Lake. In the maps forwarded from Kazeh by my companion, -the River Kivira was, after ample inquiry, made a western _influent_ of -the Nyanza Lake. In the map appended to the paper in Blackwood, before -alluded to, it has become an _effluent_, and the only minute concerning -so very important a modification is, “This river (although I must -confess at first I did not think so) is the Nile itself!” - -Beyond the assertion, therefore, that no man had visited the north, and -the appearance of sextants and logs upon the waters, there is not a -shade of proof _pro._ Far graver considerations lie on the _con._ side: -the reports of the Egyptian expedition, and the dates of the several -inundations which--as will presently appear--alone suffice to disprove -the possibility of the Nyanza causing the flood of the Nile. It is -doubtless a satisfactory thing to disclose to an admiring public, of -“statesmen, churchmen, missionaries, merchants, and more particularly -geographers,” the “solution of a problem, which it has been the first -geographical desideratum of many thousand years to ascertain, and the -ambition of the first monarchs in the world to unravel.” (Blackwood’s -Magazine, October 1859.) But how many times since the days of a certain -Claudius Ptolemæius surnamed Pelusiota, have not the Fountains of the -White Nile been discovered and re-discovered after this fashion? - -What tended at the time to make me the more sceptical was the -substantial incorrectness of the geographical and other details brought -back by my companion. This was natural enough. Bombay, after -misunderstanding his master’s ill-expressed Hindostani, probably -mistranslated the words into Kisawahili to some travelled African, who -in turn passed on the question in a wilder dialect to the barbarian or -barbarians under examination. During such a journey to and fro words -must be liable to severe accidents. The first thing reported to me was -the falsehood of the Arabs at Kazeh, who had calumniated the good Sultan -Muhayya, and had praised the bad Sultan Machunda: subsequent inquiries -proved their rigid correctness. My companion’s principal informant was -one Mansur Bin Salim, a half-caste Arab, who had been flogged out of -Kazeh by his compatriots; he pronounced Muhayya to be a “very excellent -and obliging person,” and of course he was believed. I then heard a -detailed account of how the caravan of Salim bin Rashid had been -attacked, beaten, captured, and detained at Ukerewe, by its sultan -Machunda. The Arabs received the intelligence with a smile of ridicule, -and in a few days Salim bin Rashid appeared in person to disprove the -report. These are but two cases of many. And what knowledge of Asiatic -customs can be expected from the writer of these lines? “The Arabs at -Unyanyembe had advised my donning their habit for the trip in order to -attract less attention; a vain precaution, which I believe they -suggested more to gratify their own vanity in _seeing an Englishman -lower himself to their position_, than for any benefit that I might -receive by doing so.” (Blackwood, loco cit.) This galimatias of the -Arabs!--the haughtiest and the most clannish of all Oriental peoples. - -But difference of opinion was allowed to alter companionship. After a -few days it became evident to me that not a word could be uttered upon -the subject of the Lake, the Nile, and his _trouvaille_ generally -without offence. By a tacit agreement it was, therefore, avoided, and I -should never have resumed it had my companion not stultified the results -of the Expedition by putting forth a claim which no geographer can -admit, and which is at the same time so weak and flimsy, that no -geographer has yet taken the trouble to contradict it. - -I will here offer to the reader a few details concerning the Lake in -question,--they are principally borrowed from my companion’s diary, -carefully corrected, however, by Snay bin Amir, Salim bin Rashid[12], -and other merchants at Kazeh. - - [12] When my companion returned to Kazeh, he represented Ukerewe and - Mazita to be islands, and, although in sight of them, he had heard - nothing concerning their connection with the coast. This error was - corrected by Salim bin Rashid, and accepted by us. Yet I read in his - discovery of the supposed sources of the Nile: “Mansur, and a native, - the greatest traveller of the place, kindly accompanied and gave me - every obtainable information. This man had traversed the island, as he - called it, of Ukerewe from north to south. _But by his rough mode of - describing it, I am rather inclined to think that instead of its being - an actual island, it is a connected tongue of land, stretching - southwards from a promontory lying at right angles to the eastern - shore of the lake_, which being a wash, affords a passage to the - mainland during the fine season, but during the wet becomes submerged - and thus makes Ukerewe temporarily an island.” The information, I - repeat, was given, not by the “native,” but by Salim bin Rashid. When, - however, the latter proceeded to correct my companion’s confusion - between the well-known coffee mart Kitara and “the island of Kitiri - occupied by a tribe called Watiri,” he gave only offence--consequently - Kitiri has obtained a local habitation in Blackwood and Petermann. - -This fresh-water sea is known throughout the African tribes as Nyanza, -and the similarity of the sound to “Nyassa,” the indigenous name of the -little Maravi or Kilwa Lake, may have caused in part the wild confusion -in which speculative geographers have involved the Lake Regions of -Central Africa. The Arabs, after their fashion of deriving comprehensive -names from local and minor features, call it Ukerewe, in the Kisukuma -dialect meaning the “place of Kerewe” (Kelewe), an islet. As has been -mentioned, they sometimes attempt to join by a river, a creek, or some -other theoretical creation, the Nyanza with the Tanganyika, the altitude -of the former being 3750 feet above sea-level, or 1900 feet above the -latter, and the mountain regions which divide the two having been -frequently travelled over by Arab and African caravans. Hence the name -Ukerewe has been transferred in the “Mombas Mission Map” to the northern -waters of the Tanganyika. The Nyanza, as regards name, position, and -even existence, has hitherto been unknown to European geographers; but, -as will presently appear, descriptions of this sea by native travellers -have been unconsciously transferred by our writers to the Tanganyika of -Ujiji, and even to the Nyassa of Kilwa. - -M. Brun-Rollet (“Le Nil Blanc et le Soudan,” p. 209) heard that on the -west of the Padongo tribe,--whom he places to the S. of Mount Kambirah, -or below 1° S. lat.--lies a great lake, from whose northern extremity -issues a river whose course is unknown. In the map appended to his -volume this water is placed between 1° S. and 3° N. lat., and about 25° -50′ E. long. (Greenwich), and the déversoir is made an influent of the -White Nile. - -Bowdich (“Discoveries of the Portuguese,” pp. 131, 132), when speaking -of the Maravi Lake (the Nyassa), mentions that the “negroes or the Moors -of Melinde” have mentioned a great water which is known to reach -Mombaca, which the Jesuit missionaries conjectured to communicate with -Abyssinia, and of which Father Lewis Marianna, who formerly resided at -Tete, recommended a discovery, in a letter addressed to the government -at Goa, which is still preserved among the public archives of that city. -Here the confusion of the Nyanza, to which there was of old a route from -Mombasah with the Nyassa, is apparent. - -At the southern point, where the Muingwira River falls into the tortuous -creek, whose surface is a little archipelago of brown rocky islets -crowned with trees, and emerging from the blue waters, the observed -latitude of the Nyanza Lake, is 2° 24′ S.; the longitude by dead -reckoning from Kazeh is E. long. 33° and nearly due north, and the -altitude by B. P. thermometer 3750 feet above sea-level. Its extent to -the north is unknown to the people of the southern regions, which rather -denotes some difficulty in travelling than any great extent. They -informed my companion that from Mwanza to the southern frontier of -Karagwah is a land journey of one month, or a sea voyage of five days -towards the N. N. W. and then to the north. They also pointed out the -direction of Unyoro N. 20° W. The Arab merchants of Kazeh have seen the -Nyanza opposite Weranhanja, the capital district of Armanika, King of -Karagwah, and declare that it receives the Kitangure River, whose mouth -has been placed about the equator. Beyond that point all is doubtful. -The merchants have heard that Suna, the late despot of Uganda, built -matumbi, or undecked vessels, capable of containing forty or fifty men, -in order to attack his enemies, the Wasoga, upon the creeks which indent -the western shores of the Nyanza. This, if true, would protract the lake -to between 1° and 1° 30′ of N. lat., and give it a total length of about -4° or 250 miles. This point, however, is still involved in the deepest -obscurity. Its breadth was estimated as follows. A hill, about 200 feet -above the water-level, shows a conspicuous landmark on the eastern -shore, which was set down as forty miles distant. On the south-western -angle of the line from the same point ground appeared; it was not, -however, perceptible on the north-west. The total breadth, therefore, -has been assumed at eighty miles,--a figure which approaches the -traditions unconsciously chronicled by European geographers. In the -vicinity of Usoga the lake, according to the Arabs, broadens out: of -this, however, and in fact of all the formation north of the equator, it -is at present impossible to arrive at certainty. - -The Nyanza is an elevated basin or reservoir, the recipient of the -surplus monsoon-rain which falls in the extensive regions of the Wamasai -and their kinsmen to the east, the Karagwah line of the Lunar Mountains -to the west, and to the south Usukuma or Northern Unyamwezi. Extending -to the equator in the central length of the African peninsula, and -elevated above the limits of the depression in the heart of the -continent, it appears to be a gap in the irregular chain which, running -from Usumbara and Kilima-ngao to Karagwah, represents the formation -anciently termed the Mountains of the Moon. The physical features, as -far as they were observed, suggest this view. The shores are low and -flat, dotted here and there with little hills; the smaller islands also -are hill-tops, and any part of the country immediately on the south -would, if inundated to the same extent, present a similar aspect. The -lake lies open and elevated, rather like the drainage and the temporary -deposit of extensive floods than a volcanic creation like the -Tanganyika, a long narrow mountain-girt basin. The waters are said to be -deep, and the extent of the inundation about the southern creek proves -that they receive during the season an important accession. The colour -was observed to be clear and blue, especially from afar in the early -morning; after 9 _a.m._, when the prevalent south-east wind arose, the -surface appeared greyish, or of a dull milky white, probably the effect -of atmospheric reflection. The tint, however, does not, according to -travellers, ever become red or green like the waters of the Nile. But -the produce of the lake resembles that of the river in its purity; the -people living on the shores prefer it, unlike that of the Tanganyika, to -the highest, and clearest springs; all visitors agree in commending its -lightness and sweetness, and declare that the taste is rather of river -or of rain-water than resembling the soft slimy produce of stagnant -muddy bottoms, or the rough harsh flavour of melted ice and snow. - -From the southern creek of the Nyanza, and beyond the archipelago of -neighbouring islets, appear the two features which have given to this -lake the name of Ukerewe. The Arabs call them “Jezirah”--an ambiguous -term, meaning equally insula and peninsula--but they can scarcely be -called islands. The high and rocky Mazita to the east, and the -comparatively flat Ukerewe on the west, are described by the Arabs as -points terminating seawards in bluffs, and connected with the eastern -shore by a low neck of land, probably a continuous reef, flooded during -the rains, but never so deeply as to prevent cattle fording the isthmus. -The northern and western extremities front deep water, and a broad -channel separates them from the southern shore, Usukuma. The Arabs, when -visiting Ukerewe or its neighbour, prefer hiring the canoes of the -Wasukuma, and paddling round the south-eastern extremity of the Nyanza, -to exposing their property and lives by marching through the dangerous -tribes of the coast. - -Mazita belongs to a people called Makwiya. Ukerewe is inhabited, -according to some informants, by Wasukuma; according to others, the -Wakerewe are marked by their language as ancient emigrants from the -highlands of Karagwah. In Ukerewe, which is exceedingly populous, are -two brother Sultans: the chief is “Machunda;” the second, “Ibanda,” -rules at Wiru, the headland on the western limit. The people collect -ivory from the races on the eastern mainland, and store it, awaiting an -Arab caravan. Beads are in most request; as in Usukuma generally, not -half a dozen cloths of native and foreign manufacture will be found upon -a hundred men. The women are especially badly clad; even the adult -maidens wear only the languti of India, or the Nubian apron of -aloe-fibre, strung with the pipe-stem bead called sofi, and blackened, -like India-rubber, by use; it is fastened round the waist, and depends -about one foot by six or seven inches in breadth. - -The Arabs who traffic in these regions generally establish themselves -with Sultan Machunda, and send their slaves in canoes round the -south-east angle of the lake to trade with the coast people. These races -are successively from the south; the Washaki, at a distance of three -marches, and their inland neighbours the Wataturu; then the Warudi, a -wild tribe, rich in ivory, lying about a fortnight’s distance; and -beyond them the Wahumba, or Wamasai. Commercial transactions extend -along the eastern shore as far as T’hiri, or Ut’hiri, a district between -Ururu and Uhumba. This is possibly the origin of the island of Tiri or -Kittiri, placed in my companion’s map near the north-west extremity of -the Nyanza Lake, off the coast of Uganda, where there is a province -called Kittara, peculiarly rich in coffee. The explorer heard from the -untrustworthy country people that, after a long coasting voyage, they -arrived at an island where the inhabitants, a poor and naked race, live -on fish, and cultivate coffee for sale. The information appears -suspicious. The Arabs know of no islands upon the Nyanza which produce -coffee. Moreover, if the people had any traffic, they would not be -without clothing. - -The savagery of the races adjacent to the Nyanza has caused accidents -amongst travelling traders. About five years ago a large caravan from -Tanga, on the eastern coast, consisting of 400 or 500 guns, and led by -Arab merchants, at the end of a journey which had lasted nearly two -years, happened to quarrel with the Wahumba or Wamasai near the lake. -The subject was the burning down of some grass required for pasture by -the wild men. Words led to blows; the caravan, having but two or three -pounds of gunpowder, was soon dispersed; seven or eight merchants lost -their lives, and a few made their escape to Unyanyembe. Before our -departure from Kazeh, the slaves of Salim bin Rashid, having rescued one -of the wounded survivors, who had been allowed by the Wamasai to wander -into Urudi, brought him back to Kazeh. He described the country as no -longer practicable. In 1858 also the same trading party, the principal -authority for these statements, were relieved of several bales of cloth, -during their sleep, when bivouacking upon an inhabited island near the -eastern shore. - -The altitude, the conformation of the Nyanza Lake, the argilaceous -colour and the sweetness of its waters, combine to suggest that it may -be one of the feeders of the White Nile. In the map appended to M. -Brun-Rollet’s volume, before alluded to, the large water west of the -Padongo tribe, which clearly represents the Nyanza or Ukerewe, is, I -have observed, made to drain northwards into the Fitri Lake, and -eventually to swell the main stream of the White River. The details -supplied by the Egyptian Expedition, which, about twenty years ago, -ascended the White River to 3° 22′ N. lat., and 31° 30′ E. long., and -gave the general bearing of the river from that point to its source as -south-east, with a distance of one month’s journey, or from 300 to 350 -miles, would place the actual sources 2° S. lat., and 35° E. long., or -in 2° eastward of the southern creek of the Nyanza Lake. This position -would occupy the northern counterslope of the Lunar Mountains, the upper -water-shed of the high region whose culminating apices are Kilima-Ngao, -Kenia, and Doengo Engai. The distance of these peaks from the coast, as -given by Dr. Krapf, must be considerably reduced, and little authority -can be attached to his river Tumbiri.[13] The site, supposed by Mr. -Macqueen (“Proceedings of the Geographical Society of London,” January -24th, 1859), to be at least 21,000 feet above the level of the sea, and -consequently 3000 or 4000 feet above the line of perpetual congelation, -would admirably explain the two most ancient theories concerning the -source of the White River, namely, that it arises in a snowy region, and -that its inundation is the result of tropical rains. - - [13] The large river Tumbiri, mentioned by Dr. Krapf as flowing - towards Egypt from the northern counterslope of Mount Kenia, rests - upon the sole authority of a single wandering native. As, moreover, - the word T’humbiri or T’humbili means a monkey, and the people are - peculiarly fond of satire in a small way, it is not improbable that - the very name had no foundation of fact. This is mentioned, as some - geographers--for instance, Mr. Macqueen (“Observations on the - Geography of Central Africa:” “Proceedings of the R. G. S. of London,” - May 9, 1859)--have been struck by the circumstance that the Austrian - Missionaries and Mr. Werne (“Expedition to discover the sources of the - White Nile, in 1840-41”) gave Tubirih as the Bari name of the White - Nile at the southern limit of their exploration. - -It is impossible not to suspect that between the upper portion of the -Nyanza and the watershed of the White Nile there exists a longitudinal -range of elevated ground, running from east to west--a “furca” draining -northwards into the Nile and southwards into the Nyanza Lake--like that -which separates the Tanganyika from the Maravi or Nyassa of Kilwa. -According to Don Angelo Vinco, who visited Loquéck in 1852, beyond the -cataract of Garbo--supposed to be in N. lat. 2° 40′--at a distance of -sixty miles lie Robego, the capital of Kuenda, and Lokoya (Logoja), of -which the latter receives an affluent from the east. Beyond Lokoya the -White Nile is described as a _small and rocky mountain-river_, -presenting none of the features of a stream flowing from a broad -expanse of water like the great Nyanza reservoir. - -The periodical swelling of the Nyanza Lake, which, flooding a -considerable tract of land on the south, may be supposed--as it lies -flush with the basal surface of the country--to inundate extensively all -the low lands that form its periphery, forbids belief in the possibility -of its being the head-stream of the Nile, or the reservoir of its -periodical inundation. In Karagwah, upon the western shore, the masika -or monsoon lasts from October to May or June, after which the dry season -sets in. The Egyptian Expedition found the river falling fast at the end -of January, and they learned from the people that it would again rise -about the end of March, at which season the sun is vertical over the -equator. About the summer solstice (June), when the rains cease in the -regions south of and upon the equator, the White Nile begins to flood. -From March to the autumnal equinox (September) it continues to overflow -its banks till it attains its magnitude, and from that time it shrinks -through the winter solstice (December) till March. The Nile is, -therefore, full during the dry season and low during the rainy season -south of and immediately upon the equator. And as the northern -counterslope of Kenia will, to a certain extent, be a lee-land, like -Ugogo, it cannot have the superfluity of moisture necessary to send -forth a first-class stream. The inundation is synchronous with the great -falls of the northern equatorial regions, which extend from July to -September, and is dependent solely upon the tropical rains. It is, -therefore, probable that the true sources of the “Holy River” will be -found to be a network of runnels and rivulets of scanty dimensions, -filled by monsoon torrents, and perhaps a little swollen by melted snow -on the northern water-parting of the Eastern Lunar Mountains. - -Of the tribes dwelling about the Nyanza, the western have been already -described. The Washaki and the Warudi are plundering races on the east, -concerning whom little is known. Remain the Wahinda, a clan or class -alluded to in this and a former chapter, and the Wataturu, an extensive -and once powerful tribe, mentioned when treating of the regions about -Tura. - -The Wahinda (in the singular Muhinda) are, according to some Arabs, a -foreign and ruling family, who coming from a distant country, probably -in the neighbourhood of Somaliland, conquered the lands, and became -Sultans. This opinion seems to rest upon physical peculiarities,--the -superiority of the Wahinda in figure, stature, and complexion to their -subjects suggesting a difference of origin. Others explain the word -Muhinda to mean a cadet of royal family, and call the class Bayt el -Saltanah, or the Kingly House. Thus, whilst Armanika is the Mkámá or -Sovereign of Karagwah, his brother simply takes the title of Muhinda. -These conflicting statements may be reconciled by the belief general in -the country that the families of the Sultans are a foreign and a nobler -race, the date of whose immigration has long fallen into oblivion. -This may be credited without difficulty; the physique of the -rulers--approximating more to the northern races of Africa--is markedly -less negroid than that of their subjects, and the difference is too -great to be explained by the effects of climate or of superior diet, -comfort, and luxury. - -The Wahinda are found in the regions of Usui, Karagwah, Uhha, Uvinza, -Uyungu, Ujiji, and Urundi, where they live in boma--stockades--and -scattered villages. Of this race are the Sultans Suwarora of the Wasui, -Armanika of Karagwah, Kanoni of Uhha, Kanze of Uyungu, Mzogera of -Uvinza, Rusimba of Ujiji, Mwezi of Urundi, Mnyamurunde of Uyofo, Gaetawa -of Uhayya, and Mutawazi of Utumbara. The Wahinda affect a milk diet -which is exceedingly fattening, and anoint themselves plentifully with -butter and ghee, to soften and polish the skin. They never sell their -fellow clansmen, are hospitable and civil to strangers, seldom carry -arms, fear nothing from the people, and may not be slain even in battle. -Where the Wahinda reign, their ministers are the Watosi, a race which -has been described when treating of their head-quarters Karagwah. - -The Wataturu extend from the Mángewá district, two marches northward of -Tura in a north-north-westerly diagonal, to Usmáo, a district of -Usukuma, at the south-east angle of the Nyanza Lake. On the north and -east they are limited by the Wahumba, on the south by the people of -Iramba, and there is said to be a connection between these three tribes. -This wild pastoral people were formerly rich in flocks and herds; they -still have the best asses in the country. About five years ago, however, -they were persuaded by Msimbira, a chief of Usukuma, to aid him against -his rival Mpagamo, who had called in the Arabs to his assistance. During -the long and bitter contest which ensued, the Arabs, as has been -related, were worsted in the field, and the Wataturu suffered severe -losses in cattle. Shortly before the arrival of the Expedition at Kazeh -the foreign merchants had despatched to Utaturu a plundering party of -sixty slave-musketeers, who, however, suddenly attacked by the people, -were obliged to fly, leaving behind eighteen of their number. This event -was followed by a truce, and the Wataturu resumed their commerce with -Tura and Unyanyembe, where, in 1858, a caravan, numbering about 300 -men, came in. Two small parties of this people were also met at Tura; -they were small, dark, and ugly savages, almost beardless, and not -unlike the “Thakur” people in Maharatta-land. Their asses, provided with -neat saddle-bags of zebra skin, were better dressed than the men, who -wore no clothing except the simplest hide-sandals. According to the -Arabs this clan affects nudity: even adult maidens dispense with the -usual skin-kilt. The men ignored bows and arrows, but they were -efficiently armed with long spears, double-edged sime, and heavy hide -shields. They brought calabash or monkey-bread flour--in this country, -as in Ugogo, a favourite article of consumption--and a little coarse -salt, collected from the dried mud of a Mbuga or swamp in the land of -Iramba, to be bartered for holcus and beads. Their language sounded to -the unpractised ear peculiarly barbarous, and their savage -suspiciousness rendered it impossible to collect any specimens. - -At Kazeh, sorely to my disappointment, it was finally settled, in a full -conclave of Arabs, that we must return to the coast by the tedious path -with which we were already painfully familiar. At Ujiji the state of our -finances had been the sole, though the sufficient obstacle to our -traversing Africa from east to west; we might--had we possessed the -means--by navigating the Tanganyika southwards, have debouched, after a -journey of three months, at Kilwa. The same cause prevented us from -visiting the northern kingdoms of Karagwah and Uganda; to effect this -exploration, however, we should have required not only funds but time. -The rains there setting in about September render travelling impossible; -our two years’ leave of absence were drawing to a close, and even had we -commanded a sufficient outfit, we were not disposed to risk the -consequences of taking an extra twelve months. No course, therefore, -remained but to regain the coast. We did not, however, give up hopes of -making our return useful to geography, by tracing the course of the -Rwaha or Rufijí River, and of visiting the coast between the Usagara -Mountains and Kilwa, an unknown line not likely to attract future -travellers. - -[Illustration: SAYDUMI, A NATIVE OF UGANDA.] - -[Illustration: Mgongo Thembo, or the Elephant’s Back.] - - - - -CHAP. XVII. - -THE DOWN-MARCH TO THE COAST. - - -On the 5th September 1858, Musa Mzuri--handsome Moses, as he was called -by the Africans--returned with great pomp to Kazeh after his long -residence at Karagwah. Some details concerning this merchant, who has -played a conspicuous part in the eventful “_peripéties_” of African -discovery, may be deemed well placed. - -About thirty-five years ago, Musa, a Moslem of the Kojah sect, and then -a youth, was driven by poverty from his native Surat to follow his -eldest brother “Sayyan,” who having sought fortune at Zanzibar, and -having been provided with an outfit by the Sayyid el Laghbari, then -governor of the island, made sundry journeys into the interior. About -1825, the brothers first visited the Land of the Moon, preceding the -Arab travellers, who in those days made their markets at Usanga and -Usenga, distant about a dozen marches to the S.S.E. of Kazeh. Musa -describes Unyamwezi as richly cultivated, and he has not forgotten the -hospitable reception of the people. The brothers bought up a little -venture of forty Farasilah or twenty men’s loads of cloth and beads, and -returned with a joint stock of 800 Farasilah (800 × 35 = 28,000 lbs. -avoirdupois) in ivory; as Sayyan died on the road, all fell to Musa’s -share. Since that time he has made five journeys to the coast and -several to the northern kingdoms. About four years ago Armanika, the -present Sultan of Karagwah, was besieged in a palisaded village by a -rebel brother Rumanika. On this occasion Musa, in company with the king, -endured great hardships, and incurred no little risk; when both parties -were weary of fighting, he persuaded, by a large bribe of ivory, Suna, -the powerful despot of the neighbouring kingdom of Uganda, to raise the -siege, by throwing a strong force into the field. He has ever since been -fraternally received by Armanika, and his last journey to Karagwah was -for the purpose of recovering part of the ivory expended in the king’s -cause. After an absence of fifteen months he brought back about a score -of splendid tusks, one weighing, he declared, upwards of 200 lbs. During -his detention Salim bin Sayf, of Dut’humi, who had been entrusted by -Musa with sixty-five Farasilah of ivory to barter for goods on the -coast, arrived at Unyanyembe, when hearing the evil tidings, the wily -Harisi appropriated the property and returned to whence he came. Like -most merchants in East Africa, Musa’s business is extensive, but his -gains are principally represented by outlying debts; he cannot, -therefore, leave the country without an enormous sacrifice. He is the -recognised Doyen of the commercial body, and he acts agent and -warehouseman; his hall is usually full of buyers and sellers, Arab and -African, and large investments of wires, beads, and cotton-cloths, some -of them valuable, are regularly forwarded to him with comforts and -luxuries from the coast. - -Musa Mzuri is now a man of the uncertain “certain age” between -forty-five and fifty, thin-bearded, tall, gaunt, with delicate -extremities, and with the regular and handsome features of a high-caste -Indian Moslem. Like most of his compatriots, he is a man of sad and -staid demeanour, and he is apparently faded by opium, which so -tyrannises over him that he carries pills in every pocket, and stores -them, lest the hoard should run short, in each corner and cranny of his -house. His clean new dress, perfumed with jasmine-oil and sandal-wood, -his snowy skull-cap and well-fitting sandals, distinguish him in -appearance from the Arabs; and his abode, which is almost a village, -with its lofty gates and its spacious courts, full of slaves and -hangers-on, contrasts with the humility of the Semite tenements. - -On arrival at Kazeh I forwarded to Musa the introductory letter with -which H. H. the Sayyid Majid had honoured me. Sundry civilities passed -between his housekeeper, Mama Khamisi, and ourselves; she supplied the -Baloch with lodgings and ourselves with milk, for which we were careful -to reward her. After returning from Ujiji we found Abdullah, the eldest -of Musa’s two sons by different slave girls, resting at Kazeh after his -down-march from Karagwah. He knew a few words of English, but he had -learned no Hindostani from his father, who curious to say, after an -expatriation of thirty-five years, still spoke his mother-tongue purely -and well. The youth would have become a greater favourite had he not -been so hard a drinker and so quarrelsome in his cups; on more than one -occasion he had dangerously cut or stabbed his servile boon-companions. -Musa had spared the rod, or had used it upon him to very little purpose; -after intruding himself repeatedly into the hall and begging for -handsome clothes, with more instance of freedom than consisted with -decorum, he was warned that if he stayed away it might be the better for -his back, and he took the warning. - -Musa, when rested after his weary return-march, called upon me with all -due ceremony, escorted by the principal Arab merchants. I was not -disappointed in finding him wholly ignorant concerning Africa and things -African; Snay bin Amir had told me that such was the case. He had, -however, a number of slaves fresh from Karagwah and Uganda, who -confirmed the accounts previously received from Arab travellers in -those regions. Musa displayed even more hospitality than his -fellow-travellers. Besides the mbogoro or skinful of grain and the goat -usually offered to fresh arrivals, he was ever sending those little -presents of provisions which in the East cannot be refused without -offence. I narrowly prevented his killing a bullock to provide us with -beef, and at last I feared to mention a want before him. During his -frequent visits he invariably showed himself a man of quiet and -unaffected manners, dashed with a little Indian reserve, which in -process of time would probably have worn off. - -On the 6th September, Said bin Salim, nervously impatient to commence -the march homewards, “made a khambi,” that is to say, pitched our tents -under a spreading tree outside and within sight of Kazeh. Although he -had been collecting porters for several days, only two came to the fore; -a few refreshing showers were falling at the autumnal equinox, and the -black peasantry so miscalculated the seasons that they expected the -immediate advent of the great Masika. Moreover, when informed that our -route would debouch at Kilwa, they declared that they must receive -double pay, as they could not expect there to be hired by return -caravans. That the “khambi” might assume an appearance of reality, the -Baloch were despatched into “country-quarters.” As they followed their -usual tactic, affecting eagerness to depart but privily clinging to the -pleasures of Kazeh, orders were issued definitively to “cut” their -rations in case of necessity. The sons of Ramji, who had returned from -Msene, without, however, intrusion or swagger, were permitted to enter -the camp. Before the march I summoned them, and in severe terms -recapitulated their misdeeds, warned them that they would not be -re-engaged, and allowed them provisions and protection only on condition -of their carrying, as the slaves of Arab merchants are expected to do, -our lighter valuables, such as the digester, medicine-chest, gun-cases, -camp-table and chair. They promised with an edifying humility to reform. -I was compelled, however to enliven their murmuring by a few slight -floggings before they would become amenable to a moral rule, and would -acquire those habits of regularity which are as chains and fetters to -the African man. The five Wak’hutu porters who, after robbing and -deserting us on the road to Ujiji, had taken service with my old -acquaintance, Salim bin Rashid--the well-informed Coast Arab merchant, -originally named by H. H. the Sayyid Majid, as my guide and caravan -leader,--begged hard to be again employed. I positively refused to see -them. If at this distance from home they had perjured themselves and had -plundered us, what might be expected when they arrived near their native -country? - -As the time of departure approached, I regretted that the arrival of -several travellers had not taken place a month earlier. Salim bin -Rashid, whilst collecting ivory in Usukuma and to the eastward of the -Nyanza Lake, had recovered a Msawahili porter, who, falling sick on the -road, had been left by a caravan from Tanga amongst the wildest of the -East African tribes, the Wamasai or Wahumba. From this man, who spent -two years amongst those plunderers and their rivals in villany the -Warudi, I derived some valuable information concerning the great -northern route which spans the countries lying between the coast and the -Nyanza Lake. I was also called upon by Amayr bin Said el Shaksi, a -strong-framed and stout-hearted greybeard, who, when his vessel -foundered in the waters of the Tanganyika, saved his life by swimming, -and as he had no goods and but few of his slaves had survived, lived for -five months on roots and grasses, till restored to Ujiji by an Arab -canoe. A garrulous senior, fond of “venting his travels,” he spent many -hours with me, talking over his past adventures, and his ocular -knowledge of the Tanganyika enabled me to gather many, perhaps, reliable -details concerning its southern extremity. A few days before departure -Hilal bin Nasur, a well-born Harisi, returned from K’hokoro; he supplied -me with a list of stations and a lengthy description of his various -excursions to the southern provinces.[14] - - [14] For this and other purely geographical details concerning the - Southern Provinces, the reader is referred to the Journal of the Royal - Geographical Society, vol. xxix. 1860. - -Said bin Salim, in despair that the labours of a whole fortnight spent -in the jungle had produced the slenderest of results, moved from under -the tree in Kazeh plain to Masui, a dirty little village distant about -three miles to the east of our head-quarters. As he reported on the 25th -of September that his gang was nearly completed, I sent forward all but -the personal baggage. The Arab had, however, secured but three Hammals -or bearers for my hammock; one a tottering old man, the other a -knock-kneed boy, and the third a notorious skulk. Although supplied with -meat to strengthen them, as they expressed it, they broke down after a -single march. From that time, finding it useless to engage bearers for a -long journey in these lands, I hired men from district to district, and -dismissed them when tired. The only objection to this proceeding was its -inordinate expense: three cloths being generally demanded by the porter -for thirty miles. A little calculation will give an idea of the relative -cost of travelling in Africa and in Europe. Assuming each man to receive -one cloth, worth one dollar, for every ten miles, and that six porters -are required to carry the hammock, we have in Africa an expenditure on -carriage alone of nearly half a crown per mile: in most parts of Europe -travel on the iron road has been reduced to one penny. - -Our return from Unyanyembe to the coast was to take place during the -dead season, when provisions are most expensive and are not unfrequently -unprocurable. But being “Wazungu” and well provided with “African -money,” we might expect the people to sell to us their grain and stores, -which they would have refused at tariff-prices to Arabs or Wasawahili. -We carried as stock fourteen porters’ loads of cloth, viz., 645 -domestics, 653 blue-cottons, and 20 coloured cloths, principally -Debwani, Barsati, and Subai, as presents to chiefs. The supply of beads -was represented by one load of ububu or black-porcelains--afterwards -thrown away as useless--half a Frasilah (17·5 pounds) of “locust-legs,” -or pink-porcelains, purchased from Sallum bin Hamid, and eight Kartasat -or papered-bundles of the heavy and expensive “town-breakers,” vermilion -or coral-porcelains, amounting to seventy Fundo, each of which covered -as a rule the day’s minor expenses. The other stores were the fifty-four -Jembe purchased at Msene, besides a few brought from Usukuma by my -companion. These articles are useful in making up kuhonga or blackmail; -in Ugogo and Usagara, which is their western limit, they double in -value, and go even further than a white cotton-cloth. Finally, we had -sixteen cows, heifers, and calves, bought in Usukuma by my companion, at -the rate of six domestics per head. We expected them to be serviceable -as presents, and meanwhile to add materially to our comfort by a more -regular supply of milk than the villages afford. But, alas! having -neglected to mark the animals, all were changed--a fact made evident by -their running dry after a few days: the four calves presently died of -fatigue; whenever an animal lay down upon the road its throat was -summarily cut, others were left to stray and be stolen, and the last -bullock preserved for a sirloin on Christmas was prematurely lost. A -small per-centage proved useful as tribute to the chiefs of Ugogo, and -served as rations when grain was unprocurable. The African, however, -looks upon meat, not as “Posho”--daily bread--but as kitoweyo--kitchen: -two or three pounds of beef merely whet his teeth for the usual Ugali -or porridge of boiled flour. It is almost needless to state that, -despite the best surveillance and the strictest economy, we arrived at -the coast almost destitute; cloth and beads, hoes and cattle, all had -disappeared, and had we possessed treble the quantity, it would have -gone the same way. - -The 26th September, 1858, saw us on foot betimes. The hospitable Snay -bin Amir, freshly recovered from an influenza which had confined him for -some days to his sleeping-mat, came personally to superintend our -departure. As no porters had returned for property left behind, and as -all the “cooking-pots” had preceded us on the yester, Snay supplied us -with his own slaves, and provided us with an Arab breakfast, well -cooked, and as usual, neatly served on porcelain plates, with plaited -and coloured straw dish-covers, pointed like Chinese caps. Then, -promising to spend the next day with me, he shook hands and followed me -out of the compound. After a march of three miles, under a white-hot -sun, and through a chilling wind, to which were probably owing our -subsequent sufferings, we entered the dirty little village of Masui, -where a hovel had been prepared for us by Said bin Salim. There we were -greeted by the caravan, and we heard with pleasure that it was ready, -after a fashion, to break ground. - -Early on the next morning appeared Snay bin Amir and Musa Mzuri: as I -was suffering from a slight attack of fever, my companion took my place -as host. The paroxysm passing off, allowed me to settle all accounts -with Snay bin Amir, and to put a finishing touch to the names of -stations in the journal. I then thanked these kind-hearted men for their -many good deeds, and promised to report to H. H. the Sayyid Majid the -hospitable reception of his Arab subjects generally, and of Snay and -Musa in particular. About evening time I shook hands with Snay bin -Amir--having so primed the dear old fellow with a stirrup-cup of -burnt-punch, that his gait and effusion of manner were by no means such -as became a staid and stately Arab Shaykh. - -On the 4th October, after a week of halts and snail’s marches--the -insufficiency of porterage compelled me to send back men for the -articles left behind at the several villages--we at last reached Hanga, -our former quarters on the eastern confines of the Unyanyembe district. -As long as we were within easy distance of Kazeh it was impossible to -keep the sons of Ramji in camp, and their absence interfered materially -with the completion of the gang. Several desertions took place, a slave -given by Kannena of Ujiji to Said bin Salim, old Musangesi the Asinego, -and two new purchases, male and female, made by the Baloch at Kazeh, -disappeared after the first few marches. The porters were troublesome. -They had divided themselves as usual into Khambi, or crews, but no -regular Kirangozi having been engaged, they preferred, through mutual -jealousy, following Shehe, one of the sons of Ramji. On the road, also, -some heads had been broken, because the cattle-drivers had attempted to -precede the line, and I feared that the fall of a chance shower might -make the whole squad desert, under the impression that the sowing season -had set in. In their idleness and want of excitement, they had -determined to secure at Hanga the bullock claimed by down caravans at -Rubuga. After four days’ halt, without other labour but that of cooking, -they arose under pretext of a blow given by one of the children of Said -bin Salim, and packing up their goods and chattels, poured in mass, -with shouts and yells, from the village, declaring that they were going -home. In sore tribulation, Said bin Salim and the Jemadar begged me to -take an active part, but a short experience of similar scenes amongst -the Bashi-Buzuks at the Dardanelles had made me wiser than my advisers: -the African, like the Asiatic, is naturally averse to the operation -proverbially called “cutting off one’s own nose;” but if begged not to -do so, he may wax, like pinioned men, valorous exceedingly, and dare the -suicidal deed. I did not move from my hut, and in half an hour -everything was _in statu quo ante_. The porters had thrown the blame of -the proceeding upon the blow, consequently a flogging was ordered for -Said bin Salim’s “child,” who, as was ever the case, had been flagrantly -in the wrong; but after return, evading the point, the plaintiffs -exposed the true state of affairs by a direct reference to the bullock. -Thus the “child” escaped castigation, and the bullock was not given till -we reached Rubuga. - -At Hanga my companion was taken seriously ill. He had been chilled on -the line of march by the cruel easterly wind, and at the end of the -second march from Kazeh he appeared trembling as if with ague. -Immediately after arrival at the foul village of Hanga--where we lodged -in a kind of cow-house, full of vermin, and exposed directly to the fury -of the cold gales--he complained, in addition to a deaf ear, an inflamed -eye, and a swollen face, of a mysterious pain which often shifted its -seat, and which he knew not whether to attribute to liver or to spleen. -It began with a burning sensation, as by a branding-iron, above the -right breast, and then extended to the heart with sharp twinges. After -ranging around the spleen, it attacked the upper part of the right lung, -and finally it settled in the region of the liver. On the 10th October, -suddenly waking about dawn from a horrible dream, in which a close pack -of tigers, leopards, and other beasts, harnessed with a network of iron -hooks, were dragging him like the rush of a whirlwind over the ground, -he found himself sitting up on the side of his bedding, forcibly -clasping both sides with his hands. Half-stupefied by pain, he called -Bombay, who having formerly suffered from the “Kichyoma-chyoma”--the -“little irons”--raised his master’s right arm, placed him in a sitting -position, as lying down was impossible, and directed him to hold the -left ear behind the head, thus relieving the excruciating and torturing -twinges, by lifting the lung from the liver. The next spasm was less -severe, but the sufferer’s mind had begun to wander, and he again -clasped his sides, a proceeding with which Bombay interfered. - -Early on the next morning, my companion, supported by Bombay and -Gaetano, staggered towards the tent. Nearing the doorway, he sent in his -Goanese, to place a chair for sitting, as usual, during the toils of the -day, outside. The support of an arm being thus removed, ensued a second -and violent spasm of cramps and twinges, all the muscles being painfully -contracted. After resting for a few moments, he called his men to assist -him into the house. But neglecting to have a chair previously placed for -him, he underwent a third fit of the same epileptic description, which -more closely resembled those of hydrophobia than aught I had ever -witnessed. He was once more haunted by a crowd of hideous devils, -giants, and lion-headed demons, who were wrenching, with superhuman -force, and stripping the sinews and tendons of his legs down to the -ankles. At length, sitting, or rather lying upon the chair, with limbs -racked by cramps, features drawn and ghastly, frame fixed and rigid, -eyes glazed and glassy, he began to utter a barking noise, and a -peculiar chopping motion of the mouth and tongue, with lips -protruding--the effect of difficulty of breathing--which so altered his -appearance that he was hardly recognisable, and completed the terror of -the beholders. When this, the third and the severest spasm, had passed -away, he called for pen and paper, and fearing that increased weakness -of mind and body might presently prevent any exertion, he wrote an -incoherent letter of farewell to his family. That, however, was the -crisis. He was afterwards able to take the proper precautions, never -moving without assistance, and always ordering a resting-place to be -prepared for him. He spent a better night, with the inconvenience, -however, of sitting up, pillow-propped, and some weeks elapsed before he -could lie upon his sides. Presently, the pains were mitigated, though -they did not entirely cease: this he expressed by saying that “the -knives were sheathed.” Such, gentle reader, in East Africa, is the -kichyoma-chyoma: either one of those eccentric after-effects of fever, -which perplex the European at Zanzibar, or some mysterious manifestation -of the Protean demon Miasma. - -I at once sent an express to Snay bin Amir for the necessary drugs. The -Arabs treat this complaint by applying to the side powdered myrrh mixed -with yoke of egg, and converted into a poultice with flour of mung -(Phaseolus Mungo). The material was duly forwarded, but it proved of -little use. Said bin Salim meanwhile, after sundry vague hints -concerning the influence of the Father of Hair, the magnificent comet -then spanning the western skies, insisted, as his people invariably do -on such conjunctures, upon my companion being visited by the mganga, or -medicine-man of the caravan. That reverend personage, after claiming and -receiving the usual fee, a fat goat, anointed with its grease two little -bits of wood strung on to a tape of tree-fibre, and contented himself -with fastening this Mpigi--the negroid’s elixir vitæ--round my -companion’s waist. The ligature, however, was torn off after a few -minutes, as its only effect was to press upon and pain the tenderest -part. - -During the forced halt which followed my companion’s severe attack, I -saw that, in default of physic, change of air was the most fitting -restorative. My benumbed legs and feet still compelling me to use a -hammock, a second was rigged up for the invalid; and by good fortune -thirteen unloaded porters of a down caravan consented to carry us both -for a large sum to Rubuga. The sons of Ramji were imperatively ordered -to leave Kazeh under pain of dismissal, which none would incur as they -had a valuable investment in slaves: with their aid the complement of -porters was easily and speedily filled up. - -Seedy Mubarak Bombay--in the interior the name became Mamba (a -crocodile) or Pombe (small beer)--had long before returned to his former -attitude, that of a respectful and most ready servant. He had, it is -true, sundry uncomfortable peculiarities. A heaven-born “Pagazi,” he -would load himself on the march with his “T’haka-t’haka,” or -“chow-chow,” although a porter had been especially hired for him. He had -no memory: an article once taken by him was always thrown upon the -ground and forgotten: in a single trip he broke my elephant gun, killed -my riding-ass, and lost its bridle. Like the Eastern Africans -generally, he lacked the principle of immediate action; if beckoned to -for a gun in the field he would probably first delay to look round, then -retire, and lastly advance. He had a curious inverted way of doing all -that he did. The water-bottle was ever carried on the march either -uncorked or inverted; his waistcoat was generally wound round his neck, -and it appeared fated not to be properly buttoned; whilst he walked -bareheaded in the sun, his Fez adorned the tufty poll of some comrade; -and at the halt he toiled like a charwoman to raise our tents and to -prepare them for habitation, whilst his slave, the large lazy Maktubu, a -boy-giant from the mountains of Urundi, sat or dozed under the cool -shade. Yet with all his faults and failures Bombay, for his unwearied -activity, and especially from his undeviating honesty,--there was no -man, save our “Negro Rectitude,” in the whole camp who had not proved -his claim to the title triliteral--was truly valuable. Said bin Salim -had long forfeited my confidence by his carelessness and extravagance; -and the disappearance of the outfit committed to him at Ujiji, in -favour, as I afterwards learned, of an Arab merchant-friend, rendered -him unfit for the responsibilities of stewardship. - -Having summoned Said bin Salim, I told him with all gentleness, in order -to spare his “shame”--the Persian proverb says, Fell not the tree which -thou hast planted--that being now wiser in Eastern African travel than -before, I intended to relieve him of his troublesome duties. He heard -this announcement with the wriest of faces; and his perturbation was not -diminished when informed that the future distribution of cloth should be -wholly in the hands of Bombay, checked by my companion’s -superintendence. The loads were accordingly numbered and registered; -the Pagazi were forbidden, under pain of punishment, to open or to -change them without permission; and Said bin Salim received, like the -Baloch, a certain monthly amount of beads, besides rations of rice for -the consumption of his children. This arrangement was persevered in till -we separated upon the seaboard: it acted well, saving outfit, time, and -a host of annoyances; moreover, it gave us command, as the African man, -like the lower animals, respects only, if he respects anything, the hand -that gives, that feeds him. It was wonderful to see how the “bone of -contention,” cloth, having been removed, the fierceness of those who -were formerly foes melted and merged into friendship and fraternisation. -The triad of bitter haters, Said bin Salim, the monocular Jemadar, and -Muinyi Kidogo, now marched and sat and ate together as if never weary of -such society; they praised one another openly and without reserve, and -if an evil tale ever reached my ear its subject was the innocent -Bombay--its object was to ruin him in my estimation. - -Acutely remembering the trouble caused by the feuds between Said bin -Salim and Kidogo upon the subject of work, I directed the former to take -sole charge of the porters, to issue their rations, and to superintend -their loads. The better to assist him, two disorderly sons of Ramji were -summarily flogged, and several others who refused to carry our smaller -valuables were reduced to order by the usual process of stopping -rations. “Shehe,” though chosen as Kirangozi or guide from motives of -jealousy by the porters, was turned out of office; he persisted in -demanding cloth for feeing an Unyamwezi medicine-man, in order to -provide him, a Moslem! with charms against the evil eye, a superstition -unknown to this part of Eastern Africa. The Pagazi, ordered to elect -one of their number, named the youth Twánígáná, who had brought with him -a large gang. But the plague of the party, a hideous, puckered, and -scowling old man who had called himself “Muzungu Mbaya,” or the “Wicked -White,” so far prevailed that at the first halt Twanigana, with his -blushing honours in the shape of a scarlet waistcoat fresh upon him, was -found squatting solus under a tree, the rest of the party having -mutinously preceded him. I halted at once and recalled the porters, who, -after a due interval of murmuring, reappeared. And subsequently, by -invariably siding with the newly-made Kirangozi, and by showing -myself ready to enforce obedience by any means and every means, I -gave the long-legged and weak-minded youth, who was called -“Gopa-Gopa”--“Funk-stick”--on account of his excessive timidity, a -little confidence, and reduced his unruly followers to all the -discipline of which their race is capable. - -As we were threatened with want of water on the way, I prepared for that -difficulty by packing a box with empty bottles, which, when occasion -required, might be filled at the best springs. The Zemzemiyah or -travelling canteen of the East African is everywhere a long-necked -gourd, slung to the shoulder by a string. But it becomes offensive after -a short use, and it can never be entrusted to servant, slave, or porter -without its contents being exhausted before a mile is measured. - -By these arrangements, the result of that after-wisdom which some have -termed fools’ wit, I commenced the down march under advantages, happy as -a “_bourgeois_” of trappers in the joyous _pays sauvage_. I have -detailed perhaps to a wearisome length the preparations for the march. -But the success of such expeditions mainly depends upon the measures -adopted before and immediately after departure, and this dry knowledge -may be useful to future adventurers in the great cause of discovery. - -The stages now appeared shorter, the sun cooler, the breeze warmer; -after fourteen months of incessant fevers, the party had become -tolerably acclimatised; all were now loud in praise, as they had been -violent in censure, of the “water and air.” Before entering the Fiery -Field, the hire for carrying the hammocks became so exorbitant that I -dismissed the bearers, drew on my jack-boots, mounted the half-caste -Zanzibari ass, and appeared once more as the Mtongi of a caravan. After -a fortnight my companion had convalesced so rapidly that he announced -himself ready to ride. The severe liver pains had disappeared, leaving -behind them, however, for a time, a harassing heart-ache and nausea, -with other bilious symptoms, which developed themselves when exposed to -the burning sun of the several tirikeza. Gradually these sequelæ ceased, -sleep and appetite returned, and at K’hok’ho, in Ugogo, my companion had -strength enough to carry a heavy rifle, and to do damage amongst the -antelope and the guinea fowl. Our Goanese servants also, after suffering -severely from fever and face-ache, became different men; Valentine, -blessed with a more strenuous diathesis, carried before him a crop like -a well-crammed capon. As the porters left this country, and the escort -approached their homes, there was a notable change of demeanour. All -waxed civil, even to servility, grumbling ceased, and smiles mantled -every countenance. Even Muzungu Mbaya, who in Unyamwezi had been the -head and front of all offence, was to be seen in Ugogo meekly sweeping -out our tents with a bunch of thorns. - -We left Hanga, the dirty cow-village, on the 13th October. The seven -short marches between that place and Tura occupied fifteen days, a -serious waste of time and cloth, caused by the craving of the porters -for their homes. It was also necessary to march with prudence, -collisions between the party and the country-people, who are -unaccustomed to see the articles which they most covet carried out of -the country, were frequent: in fact we flew to arms about every second -day, and after infinite noise and chatter, we quitted them to boast of -the deeds of “derring do,” which had been consigned to the limbo of -things uncreate by the fainéance of the adversary. At Eastern Tura, -where we arrived on the 28th October, a halt of six days was occasioned -by the necessity of providing and preparing food, at that season scarce -and dear, for the week’s march through the Fiery Field. The caravan was -then mustered, when its roll appeared as follows. We numbered in our own -party two Europeans, two Goanese, Bombay with two slaves--the child-man -Nasibu and the boy-giant Maktubu--the bull-headed Mabruki, Nasir, a -half-caste Mazrui Arab, who had been sent with me by the Arabs of Kazeh -to save his morals, and Taufiki, a Msawahili youth, who had taken -service as gun-carrier to the coast: they formed a total of 10 souls. -Said bin Salim was accompanied by 12--the charmers Halimah and Zawada, -his five children, and a little gang of five fresh captures, male and -female. The Baloch, 12 in number, had 15 slaves and 11 porters, -composing a total of 38. The sons of Ramji, and the ass-drivers under -Kidogo their leader, were in all 24, including their new acquisitions. -Finally 68 Wanyamwezi porters, carrying the outfit and driving the -cattle, completed the party to 152 souls. - -[Illustration: Jiwe la Mkoa, the Round Rock.] - -On the 3rd November, the caravan issuing from Tura plunged manfully into -the Fiery Field, and after seven marches in as many days, halted for -breath and forage at Jiwe la Mkoa, the Round Stone. A few rations having -been procured in its vicinity, we resumed our way on the 12th November, -and in two days exchanged, with a sensible pleasure, the dull expanse of -dry brown bush and brushwood, dead thorn-trees, and dry Nullahs, for the -fertile red plain of Mdaburu. After that point began the transit of -Ugogo, where I had been taught to expect accidents: they resolved -themselves, however, into nothing more than the disappearance of cloth -and beads in inordinate quantities. We were received by Magomba, the -Sultan of Kanyenye, with a charge of magic, for which of course it was -necessary to pay heavily. The Wanyamwezi porters seemed even more timid -on the down-journey than on the up-march. They slank about like curs, -and the fierce look of a Mgogo boy was enough to strike a general -terror. Twanigana, when safe in the mountains of Usagara, would -frequently indulge me in a dialogue like the following, and it may serve -as a specimen of the present state of conversation in East Africa:-- - -“The state, Mdula?” (_i.e._ Abdullah, a word unpronounceable to Negroid -organs.) - -“The state is very! (well) and thy state?” - -“The state is very! (well) and the state of Spikka? (my companion).” - -“The state of Spikka is very! (well.)” - -“We have escaped the Wagogo (resumes Twanigana), white man O!” - -“We have escaped, O my brother!” - -“The Wagogo are bad.” - -“They are bad.” - -“The Wagogo are very bad.” - -“They are very bad.” - -“The Wagogo are not good.” - -“They are not good.” - -“The Wagogo are not at all good.” - -“They are not at all good.” - -“I greatly feared the Wagogo, who kill the Wanyamwezi.” - -“Exactly so!” - -“But now I don’t fear them. I call them ----s and ----s, and I would -fight the whole tribe, white man O!” - -“Truly so, O my brother!” - -And thus for two mortal hours, till my ennui turned into marvel. -Twanigana however was, perhaps, in point of intellect somewhat below the -usual standard of African young men. Older and more experienced was -Muzungu Mbaya, and I often listened with no small amusement to the -attempts made by the Baloch to impress upon this truly African mind a -respect for their revelation. Gul Mohammed was the missionary of the -party: like Moslems generally, however, his thoughts had been taught to -run in one groove, and if disturbed by startling objections, they were -all abroad. Similarly I have observed in the European old lady, that on -such subjects all the world must think with her, and I have been -suspected of drawing the long-bow when describing the worship of gods -with four arms, and goddesses with two heads. - -Muzungu Mbaya, as the old hunks calls himself, might be sitting deeply -meditative, at the end of the march, before the fire, warming his inner -legs, smoking his face, and ever and anon casting pleasant glances at a -small black earthen pipkin, whence arose the savoury steam of meat and -vegetables. A concatenation of ideas induces Gul Mohammed to break into -his favourite theme. - -“And thou, Muzungu Mbaya, thou also must die!” - -“Ugh! ugh!” replies the Muzungu personally offended, “don’t speak in -that way! Thou must die too.” - -“It is a sore thing to die,” resumes Gul Mohammed. - -“Hoo! Hoo!” exclaims the other, “it is bad, very bad, never to wear a -nice cloth, no longer to dwell with one’s wife and children, not to eat -and drink, snuff, and smoke tobacco. Hoo! Hoo! it is bad, very bad!” - -“But we shall eat,” rejoins the Moslem, “the flesh of birds, mountains -of meat, and delicate roasts, and drink sugared water, and whatever we -hunger for.” - -The African’s mind is disturbed by this tissue of contradictions. He -considers birds somewhat low feeding, roasts he adores, he contrasts -mountains of meat with his poor half-pound in pot, he would sell himself -for sugar; but again he hears nothing of tobacco; still he takes the -trouble to ask - -“Where, O my brother?” - -“There,” exclaims Gul Mohammed, pointing to the skies. - -This is a “chokepear” to Muzungu Mbaya. The distance is great, and he -can scarcely believe that his interlocutor has visited the firmament to -see the provision; he therefore ventures upon the query, - -“And hast thou been there, O my brother?” - -“Astaghfar ullah (I beg pardon of Allah)!” ejaculates Gul Mohammed, half -angry, half amused. “What a mshenzi (pagan) this is! No, my brother, I -have not exactly been there, but my Mulungu (Allah) told my Apostle[15], -who told his descendants, who told my father and mother, who told me, -that when we die we shall go to a Shamba (a plantation), where----” - - [15] Those who translate Rasul, meaning, literally, “one sent,” by - prophet instead of apostle, introduce a notable fallacy into the very - formula of Moslem faith. Mohammed never pretended to prophecy in our - sense of foretelling future events. - -“Oof!” grunts Muzungu Mbaya, “it is good of you to tell us all this -Upumbafu (nonsense) which your mother told you. So there are plantations -in the skies?” - -“Assuredly,” replies Gul Mohammed, who expounds at length the Moslem -idea of paradise to the African’s running commentary of “Nenda we!” (be -off!), “Mama-e!” (O my mother!) and “Tumbanina,” which may not be -translated. - -Muzungu Mbaya, who for the last minute has been immersed in thought, now -suddenly raises his head; and, with somewhat of a goguenard air, -inquires: - -“Well then, my brother, thou knowest all things! answer me, is thy -Mulungu black like myself, white like this Muzungu, or whity-brown as -thou art?” - -Gul Mohammed is fairly floored: he ejaculates sundry la haul! to collect -his wits for the reply,-- - -“Verily the Mulungu hath no colour.” - -“To-o-oh! Tuh!” exclaims the Muzunga, contorting his wrinkled -countenance, and spitting with disgust upon the ground. He was now -justified in believing that he had been made a laughing-stock. The -mountain of meat had, to a certain extent, won over his better judgment: -the fair vision now fled, and left him to the hard realities of the -half-pound. He turns a deaf ear to every other word; and, devoting all -his assiduity to the article before him, he unconsciously obeys the -advice which many an Eastern philosopher has inculcated to his -disciples-- - - “Hold fast the hour, though fools say nay, - The spheres revolve, they bring thee sorrow; - The wise enjoys his joy to-day, - The fool shall joy his joy to-morrow.” - -The transit of Ugogo occupied three weeks, from the 14th of November to -the 5th of December. In Kanyenye we were joined by a large down-caravan -of Wanyamwezi, carrying ivories; the musket-shots which announced the -conclusion of certain brotherly ties between the sons of Ramji and the -porters, sounded in my ears like minute-guns announcing the decease of -our hopes of a return to the coast viâ Kilwa. At Kanyenye, also, we met -the stout Msawahili Abdullah bin Nasib, alias Kisesa, who was once more -marching into Unyamwezi: he informed me that the slaughter of Salim bin -Nasir, the Bu-Saidi, and the destruction of the Rubeho settlements, -after the murder of a porter, had closed our former line through -Usagara. He also supplied me with valuable tea and sugar, and my -companion with a quantity of valueless, or perhaps misunderstood, -information, which I did not deem worth sifting. On the 6th of December, -arrived at our old ground in the Ugogi Dhun, we were greeted by a -freshly-arrived caravan, commanded by Jumah bin Mbwana and his two -brothers, half-caste Hindi or Indian Moslems, from Mombasah. - -The Hindis, after receiving and returning news with much solemnity, -presently drew forth a packet of letters and papers, which as usual -promised trouble. This time, however, the post was to produce the second -manner of annoyance--official “wigging,”--the first being intelligence -of private misfortune. Imprimis, came a note from Captain Rigby, the -newly-appointed successor to Lieut.-Col. Hamerton at Zanzibar, and that -name was not nice in the nostrils of men. Secondly, the following -pleasant announcement. I give the whole letter: - - DEAR BURTON,--Go ahead! Vogel and Macguire dead--murdered. Write often - to - - Yours truly, N. S. - -And thirdly came the inevitable official wig. - -Convinced, by sundry conversations with Arabs and others at Suez and -Aden, during my last overland journey to India, and by the details -supplied to me by a naval officer who was thoroughly conversant with the -Red Sea, that, in consequence of the weakness and insufficiency of the -squadron then employed, slavery still flourished, and that the numerous -British subjects and protegés were inadequately protected, I had dared, -after arrival at Zanzibar, privately to address on the 15th of December, -1856, a letter upon the subject to the secretary of the Royal -Geographical Society. It contained an “Account of Political Affairs in -the Red Sea,”--to quote the words of the paper, and expressed a hope -that it might be “deemed worthy to be transmitted to the Court of -Directors, or to the Foreign Office.”[16] The only acknowledgment which -I received, was the edifying information that the Secretary to -Government, Bombay, was directed by the Right Honourable the Governor in -Council, Bombay, to state that my “want of discretion and due regard for -the authorities to whom I am subordinate, has been regarded with -displeasure by the Government.” - - [16] The whole correspondence, with its reply and counter-reply, are - printed in Appendix. - -This was hard. I have perhaps been Quixotic enough to attempt a -suggestion that, though the Mediterranean is fast becoming a French -lake, by timely measures the Red Sea may be prevented from being -converted into a Franco-Russo-Austrian lake. But an Englishman in these -days must be proud, very proud, of his nation, and withal somewhat -regretful that he was not born of some mighty mother of men--such as -Russia and America--who has not become old and careless enough to leave -her bairns unprotected, or cold and crusty enough to reward a little -word of wisdom from her babes and sucklings with a scolding or a buffet. - -The sore, however, had its salve. The official wig was dated the 23rd of -July, 1857. Posts are slow in Africa. When received on the 5th of -December, 1858, it was accompanied by a copy of a Bombay Newspaper, -which reported that on the 30th of June, 1858, “a massacre of nearly all -the Christians took place at Juddah, on the Red Sea,” and that “it was -apprehended that the news from Juddah might excite the Arab population -of Suez to the commission of similar outrages.” - -At Ugogi, which, it will be remembered, is considered the half-way -station between Unyanyembe and the coast, the sons of Ramji and the -porters detained us for a day, declaring that there was a famine upon -the Mukondokwa road which we had previously traversed. At the same time -they warned us that we should find the great chief, who has given a name -to the Kiringawana route, an accomplished extortioner, and one likely to -insist upon our calling upon him in person. Having given their -ultimatum, they would not recede from it: for us, therefore, nothing -remained but to make a virtue of necessity. We loaded on the 7th of -December, and commenced the passage of the Usagara mountains by the -Kiringawana line. - -I must indent upon the patience of the reader by a somewhat detailed -description of this southern route, which is separated from the northern -by a maximum interval of forty-three miles. The former being the more -ancient, contains some settlements like Maroro and Kisanga, not unknown -by report to European geographers. It is preferred by down-caravans, who -have no store of cloth to be demanded by the rapacious chiefs: the -up-country travellers, who have asses, must frequent the Mukondokwa, on -account of the severity of the passes on the Kiringawana. - -The Kiringawana numbers nineteen short stages, which may be accomplished -without hardship in twelve days, at the rate of about five hours per -diem. Provisions are procurable in almost every part, except when the -Warori are “out;” and water is plentiful, if not good. Travel is -rendered pleasant by long stretches of forest land without bush or fetid -grass. The principal annoyances are the thievish propensities of the -natives and the extortionate demands of the chief. A minor plague is -that of mosquitoes, that haunt the rushy banks of the hill rivulets, -some of which are crossed nine or ten times in the same day; moreover, -the steep and slippery ascents and descents of black earth and mud, or -rough blocks of stone, make the porters unwilling to work. - -Breaking ground at 6 A.M. on the 7th December, we marched to Murundusi, -the frontier of Usagara and Uhehe. The path lay over a rolling thorny -jungle with dottings of calabash at the foot of the Rubeho mountains, -and lumpy outliers falling on the right of the road. After three hours’ -march, the sound of the horses announced the vicinity of a village, and -the country opening out, displayed a scene of wonderful fertility, the -effect of subterraneous percolations from the highlands. Nowhere are the -tamarind, the sycamore, and the calabash, seen in such perfection; of -unusual size also are the perfumed myombo and the mkora, the myongo, the -ndabi, the chamvya, with its edible yellowish-red berries, and a large -sweet-smelling acacia. Amidst these piles of verdure, troops of -parroquets, doves, jays, and bright fly-catchers, find a home, and -frequent flocks and herds, a resting-place beneath the cool shade. The -earth is still sprinkled with “black-jacks,” the remains of trees which -have come to an untimely end. In the fields near the numerous villages -rise little sheds to shelter the guardians of the crops, and cattle -wander over the commons or unreclaimed lands. Water, which is here pure -and good, lies in pits from fifteen to twenty feet deep, staged over -with tree trunks, and the people draw it in large shallow buckets, made -of gourds sewn together and strengthened with sticks. Towards the -evening, a cold east-wind brought up with it a storm of thunder and -rain, which was pronounced by the experts to be the opening of the rainy -monsoon in Usagara. - -The next day led us over an elevated undulation cut by many jagged -watercourses, and still flanked by the outlying masses which fall -westward into the waste of Mgunda M’khali. After an hour’s march, we -turned abruptly eastwards, and crossing a rugged stony fork, presently -found a dwarf basin of red soil which supplied water. The Wahehe owners -of the land have a chronic horror of the Warori; on sighting our -peaceful caravan, they at once raised the war-cry, and were quieted only -by the certainty that we were even more frightened than they were. At -Kinganguku, the night was again wild and stormy; in fact, after leaving -Ugogi, we were regularly rained upon till we had crossed the Mountains. - -On the 9th December, we marched in six hours from Kinyanguku to Rudi, -the principal district of Uhehe. It was an ascent plunging into the -hills, which, however, on this line are easy to traverse, compared with -those of the northern route; the paths were stony and rugged, and the -earth was here white and glaring, there of a dull red colour. Water pure -and plentiful was found in pits about fifteen feet deep, which dented -the sole of a picturesque Fiumara. The people assembled to stare with -the stare pertinacious; they demanded large prices for their small -reserves of provisions, but they sold tobacco at the rate of two or -three cakes, each weighing about one pound and a half, for a shukkah. - -Passing from the settlements of Rudi, on the next morning we entered a -thorn jungle, where the handiwork of the fierce Warori appeared in many -a shell of smoke-stained village. We then crossed two Fiumaras exactly -similar to those which attract the eye in the Somali country, broad -white sandy beds, with high stiff earth-banks deeply water-cut, and with -huge emerald-foliaged trees rising from a hard bare red plain. After a -short march of three hours, we pitched under a tamarind, and sent our -men abroad to collect provisions. Tobacco was cheap, as at Rudi, grain -and milk, whether fresh or sour, were expensive, and two shukkahs were -demanded for a lamb or a young goat. The people of Mporota are notorious -pilferers. About noontide a loud “hooroosh” and the scampering of -spearmen over the country announced a squabble; presently our people -reappeared driving before them a flock which they had seized in revenge -for a daring attempt at larceny. I directed them to retain one fine -specimen--the _lex talionis_ is ever the first article of the penal code -in the East--and to return the rest. Notwithstanding these energetic -measures, the youth Taufiki awaking in the night with a shriek like one -affected by nightmare, found that a Mhehe robber had snatched his cloth, -and favoured by the shades had escaped with impunity. The illness of -Said bin Salim detained us for a day in this den of thieves. - -The 12th December carried us in three hours from Mporota to Ikuka of -Uhehe. The route wound over red steps amongst low stony hills, the legs -of the spider-like system, and the lay of the heights was in exceeding -confusion. Belted by thorny scrub and forests of wild fruit trees--some -edible, others poisonous--were several villages, surrounded by fields, -especially rich in ground-nuts. Beyond Ikuka the road entered stony and -rugged land, with a few sparse cultivations almost choked by thick bushy -jungle; the ragged villages contained many dogs, and a few peculiarly -hideous human beings. Thence it fell into a fine Fiumara, with pure -sweet water in pools, breaking the surface of loose white sand; upon the -banks, red soil, varying from a few inches to 20 feet in depth, overlay -bands and lines of rounded pebbles, based on beds of granite, schiste, -and sandstone. After ascending a hill, we fell into a second -watercourse, whose line was almost choked with wild and thorny -vegetation, and we raised the tents in time to escape a pitiless -pelting, which appeared to spring from a gap in the southern mountains. -The time occupied in marching from Ikuka to Inena of Usagara was four -hours, and, as usual in these short stages, there was no halt. - -Two porters were found missing on the morning of the 14th -December,--they had gone for provisions, and had slept in the -villages,--moreover, heavy clouds hanging on the hill-tops threatened -rain: a Tirikeza was therefore ordered. At 11 A.M. we set out over -rises, falls, and broken ground, at the foot of the neighbouring -highlands which enclose a narrow basin, the seat of villages and -extensive cultivation. Small cascades flashing down the walls that -hemmed us in showed the copiousness of the last night’s fall. After five -hours’ heavy marching, we forded a rapid Fiumara, whose tall banks of -stiff red clay, resting upon tilted-up strata of greenstone, enclosed a -stream calf-deep, and from 10 to 12 feet broad. At this place, called -Ginyindo, provisions were hardly procurable; consequently the caravan, -as was its wont on such occasions, quarrelled for disport, and the -Baloch, headed by “Gray-beard Musa,” began to abuse and to beat the -Pagazis. - -The morning of the 15th December commenced with a truly African scene. -The men were hungry, and the air was chill. They prepared, however, to -start quietly betimes. Suddenly a bit of rope was snatched, a sword -flashed in the air, a bow-horn quivered with nocked arrow, and the whole -caravan rushed frantically with a fearful row to arms. As no one -dissuaded the party from “fighting it out,” they apparently became -friends, and took up their loads. My companion and I rode quietly -forward: scarcely, however, had we emerged from the little basin in -which the camp had been placed, than a terrible hubbub of shouts and -yells announced that the second act had commenced. After a few minutes, -Said bin Salim came forward in trembling haste to announce that the -Jemadar had again struck a Pagazi, who, running into the Nullah, had -thrown stones with force enough to injure his assailant, consequently -that the Baloch had drawn their sabres and had commenced a general -massacre of porters. Well understanding this misrepresentation, we -advanced about a mile, and thence sent back two of the sons of Ramji to -declare that we would not be delayed, and that if not at once followed, -we would engage other porters at the nearest village. This brought on a -denouement: presently the combatants appeared, the Baloch in a high -state of grievance, the Africans declaring that they had not come to -fight but to carry. I persuaded them both to defer settling the business -till the evening, when both parties well crammed with food listened -complacently to that gross personal abuse, which, in these lands, -represents a reprimand. - -Resuming our journey, we crossed two high and steep hills, the latter of -which suddenly disclosed to the eye the rich and fertile basin of -Maroro. Its principal feature is a perennial mountain stream, which, -descending the chasm which forms the northern pass, winds sluggishly -through the plain of muddy black soil and patches of thick rushy grass, -and diffused through watercourses of raised earth, covers the land with -tobacco, holcus, sweet-potato, plantains, and maize. The cereals stood -five feet high, and were already in ear: according to the people, never -less than two, and often three and four crops are reaped during the -year. This hill-girt district is placed at one month’s march from the -coast. At the southern extremity, there is a second opening like the -northern, and through it the “River of Maroro” sheds into the Rwaha, -distant in direct line two marches west with southing. - -[Illustration: THE BASIN OF MARORO.] - -Maroro, or Malolo, according to dialect, is the “Marorrer town” of Lt. -Hardy, (Transactions of the Bombay Geographical Society, from Sept. 1841 -to May 1844,) who, in 1811-12, was dispatched with Capt. Smee by the -Government of Bombay to collect information at Kilwa and its -dependencies, and the East African coast generally. Mr. Cooley (Inner -Africa Laid Open, p. 56) writes the word Marora, and explains it to mean -“trade:” the people, however, ignore the derivation. It is not a town, -but a district, containing as usual on this line a variety of little -settlements. The confined basin is by no means a wholesome locality, the -air is warm and “muggy,” the swamp vegetation is fetid, the mosquitos -venomous, and the population, afflicted with fevers and severe -ulceration, is not less wretched and degraded than the Wak’hutu. Their -habitations are generally Tembe, but small and poor, and their fields -are dotted with dwarf platforms for the guardians of the crops. Here a -cow costs twelve cloths, a goat three, whilst two fowls are procurable -for a shukkah. Maroro is the westernmost limit of the touters from the -Mrima; there are seldom less than 150 muskets present, and the Wasagara -have learned to hold strangers in horror. - -In these basins caravans endeavour, and are forced by the people, to -encamp upon the further end after marching through. At the end of a -short stage of three hours we forded three times the river bed, a muddy -bottom, flanked by stiff rushes, and encamped under a Mkamba tree, above -and to windward of the fetid swamp. The night was hot and rainy, clouds -of mosquitos rose from their homes below, and the cynhyænas were so -numerous that it was necessary to frighten them away with shots. The -labour of laying in provisions detained us for a day at Maroro. - -On the 17th December we left the little basin by its southern opening, -which gradually winds eastward. The march was delayed by the -distribution of the load of a porter who had fled to the Warori. After -crossing a fourth rise, the road fell into the cultivated valley of the -Mwega River. This is a rush-girt stream of pure water, about 20 feet -broad, and knee-deep at the fords in dry weather; its course is S.W. to -the stream of Maroro. Like the Mukondokwa, it spreads out, except where -dammed by the correspondence of the salient and the re-entering angles -of the hill spurs. The road runs sometimes over this rocky and jungly -ground, horrid with thorn and cactus, fording the stream, where there is -no room for a path, and at other times it traverses lagoon-like -backwaters, garnished with grass, rush, and stiff shrubs, based upon -sun-cracked or miry beds. After a march of four hours we encamped in the -Mwega Basin, where women brought down grain in baskets: cattle were seen -upon the higher grounds, but the people refused to sell milk or meat. - -The next stage was Kiperepeta; it occupied about 2 hours 30 min. The -road was rough, traversing the bushy jungly spurs on the left bank of -the rushy narrow stream; in many places there were steps and ladders of -detached blocks and boulders. At last passing through a thick growth, -where the smell of jasmine loads the air, we ascended a steep and rugged -incline, whose summit commanded a fine back view of the Maroro Basin. A -shelving counterslope of earth deeply cracked and cut with watercourses -led us to the encamping-ground, a red patch dotted with tall calabashes, -and boasting a few pools of brackish water. We had now entered the land -of grass-kilts and beehive huts, built for defence upon the ridges of -the hills: whilst cactus, aloe, and milk-bush showed the diminished -fertility of the soil. About Kiperepeta it was said a gang of nearly 400 -touters awaited with their muskets the arrival of caravans from the -interior. - -On the 19th December, leaving Kiperepeta, we toiled up a steep incline, -cut by the sinuated channels of water-courses, to a col or pass, the -water-parting of this line in Usagara: before south-westerly, the -versant thence-forward trends to the south-east. Having topped the -summit, we began the descent along the left bank of a mountain burn, the -Rufita, which, forming in the rainy season a series of rapids and -cascades, casts its waters into the Yovu, and eventually into the Rwaha -River. The drainage of the hill-folds cuts, at every re-entering angle, -a ragged irregular ditch, whose stony depths are impassable to -heavily-laden asses. After a toilsome march of three hours, we fell into -the basin of Kisanga, which, like others on this line, is an enlarged -punchbowl, almost surrounded by a mass of green hills, cone rising upon -cone, with tufted cappings of trees, and long lines of small -haycock-huts ranged along the acclivities and ridge-lines. The floor of -the basin is rough and uneven; a rich cultivation extends from the -hill-slopes to the stream which drains the sole, and fine trees, amongst -which are the mparamusi and the sycomore, relieve the uniformity of the -well-hoed fields. Having passed through huts and villages, where two -up-caravans of Wanyamwezi were halted, displaying and haggling over the -cloths intended as tribute to the Sultan Kiringawana, we prudently -forded the Yovu, and placed its bed between ourselves and the enemy. The -Yovu, which bisects the basin of Kisanga from N. to S. and passes by the -S.E. into the Rwaha, was then about four feet deep; it flowed down a -muddy bed laced with roots, and its banks, whence a putrid smell -exhaled, were thick lines of sedgy grass which sheltered myriads of -mosquitos. Ascending an eminence to the left of the stream, we obtained -lodgings, and at once proceeded to settle kuhonga with the chief, -Kiringawana. - -[Illustration: Rufita Pass in Usagara.] - -The father, or, according to others, the grandfather of the present -chief, a Mnyamwezi of the ancient Wakalaganza tribe, first emigrated -from his home in Usagozi, and, being a mighty elephant-hunter and a -powerful wizard, he persuaded by arts and arms the Wasagara, who allowed -him to settle amongst them, to constitute him their liege lord. The -actual Kiringawana, having spent his heir-apparent days at Zanzibar, -returned to Kisanga on the death of his sire, and reigned in his stead. -His long residence among the Arabs has so far civilised him that he -furnishes his several homes comfortably enough; he receives his -tributary-visitors with ceremony, affects amenity of manner, clothes his -short, stout, and sooty person in rainbow-coloured raiment, carries a -Persian blade, and is a cunning diplomatist in the art of choosing -cloth. - -On the day of arrival I was visited by Msimbiri, the -heir-apparent--kingly dignity prevented Kiringawana wading the -Yovu,--who gave some information about the Rwaha river, and promised -milk. The 20th of December was expended in the palaver about “dash.” -After abundant chaffering, the chief accepted from the Expedition, -though passing through his acres on the return-march, when presents are -poor, three expensive coloured cloths, and eight shukkah of domestics -and Kaniki; wondering the while that the wealthy Muzungu had neglected -to reserve for him something more worthy of his acceptance. He returned -a fat bullock, which was instantly shot and devoured. In their indolence -the caravan-men again began to quarrel; and Wulaydi, a son of Ramji, -speared a porter, an offence for which he was ordered, if he failed to -give satisfaction for the assault, to be turned out of camp. A march was -anticipated on the next day, when suddenly, as the moon rose over the -walls of the basin, a fine bonfire on the neighbouring hill and a -terrible outcry announced an accident in the village occupied by the -sons of Ramji. Muinyi Buyuni had left in charge of the hearth the object -of his affections, a fine strapping slave-girl, whom for certain reasons -he expected to sell for a premium at Zanzibar, and she had made it over -to some friend, who probably had fallen asleep. The hut was soon in -flames,--in these lands fires are never extinguished,--and the -conflagration had extended to the nearer hovels, consuming the cloth, -grain, and furniture of the inmates. Fortunately, the humans and the -cattle escaped; but a delay was inevitable. The elder who owned the -chief hut demanded only eighty-eight cloths, one slave, thirteen Fundo -of beads, and other minor articles:--a lesser sum would have purchased -the whole household. His cupidity was restrained by Kiringawana, who -named as indemnity thirty cloths, here worth thirty dollars, which I -gave with extreme unwillingness, promising the sons of Ramji, who -appeared rather to enjoy the excitement, that they should pay for their -carelessness at Zanzibar. - -During the second day’s halt, I attempted to obtain from Kiringawana a -permission to depart from the beaten track. The noble descent of this -chief gives him power over the guides of the Wanyamwezi caravans. In -consequence of an agreement with the Diwans of the Mrima, he has lately -closed the direct route to Kilwa, formerly regularly traversed, and he -commands a little army of touters. He returned a gracious reply, which -in East Africa, however, means no gracious intentions. - -Resuming our march on the 22nd of December, we descended from the -eminence into the basin of the Yovu River, and fought our way through a -broad “Wady,” declining from east to west, with thick lines of tree and -bush down the centre, and everywhere else an expanse of dark and -unbroken green, like a plate of spinach. Passing along the southern bank -amongst wild Annonas and fine Palmyras, over a good path where there was -little mud, we presently ascended rising ground through an open forest, -of the rainbow hues before described, where sweet air and soft filmy -shade formed, whilst the sun was low and the breath of the morning was -pure and good, most enjoyable travelling. After about five hours we -descended into the basin of the Ruhembe rivulet, which seems to be the -“Rohambi people” of Mr. Cooley’s Itinerary. (Geography of N’yassi, p. -22.) The inhabitants are Wasagara; they supply travellers with manioc, -grain, and bitter egg-plants, of a scarlet colour resembling tomatos. -Cultivation flourishes upon the hill-sides and in the swampy grounds -about the sole of the basin, which is bisected by a muddy and apparently -stagnant stream ten feet broad. We pitched tents in the open central -space of a village, and met a caravan of Wasawahili from Zanzibar, who -reported to Said bin Salim the gratifying intelligence that, in -consequence of a rumour of his decease, his worthy brother, Ali bin -Salim, had somewhat prematurely laid violent hands upon his goods and -chattels. - -The porters would have halted on the next day, but the excited Said -exerted himself manfully; at 2 P.M. we were once more on the road. -Descending from the village-eminence, we crossed in a blazing sun the -fetid Ruhembe; and, after finding with some difficulty the jungly path, -we struck into a pleasant forest, like that traversed on the last march. -It was cut by water-courses draining south, and at these places it was -necessary to dismount. At 6 P.M. appeared a clearing, with sundry -villages and clumps of the Mgude tree, whose tufty summits of the -brightest green, gilt by the last rays of the sun, formed a lovely -picture. The porters would have rested at this spot, but they were -forced forwards by the sons of Ramji. Presently we emerged upon the -southern extremity of the Makata Plain, a hideous low level of black -vegetable earth, peaty in appearance, and, bearing long puddles of dark -scummy and stagnant rain-water, mere horse-ponds, with the additional -qualities of miasma and mosquitos. The sons of Ramji had determined to -reach the Makata Nullah, still distant about two hours. I called a halt -in favour of the fatigued Pagazi, who heard it with pleasure, and sent -to recall Wulaydi, Shehe, and Nasibu, who were acting bell-wethers. The -worthies returned after a time, and revenged themselves by parading, -with many grimaces, up and down the camp. - -On the morning of the 24th of December, we resumed the transit of the -Makata Plain, and crossed the tail of its nullah. It was here bone-dry; -consequently, had we made it last night, the thirsty caravan would have -suffered severely. Ensued a long slope garnished with the normal thin -forest; in two places the plots of ashes, which denote the deaths of -wizard and witch, apprised us that we were fast approaching benighted -K’hutu. A skeleton caravan of touters, composed of six muskets and two -flags, met us on the way. Presently we descended into the basin of -Kikoboga, which was occupied in force by gentry of the same description. -After wading four times the black, muddy, and rushy nullah, which -bisects the lake, we crossed a lateral band of rough high ground, whence -a further counter-slope bent down to a Khambi in a diminutive hollow, -called Mwimbi. It was the ideal of a bad encamping ground. The kraal -stood on the bank of a dark, miry water at the head of a narrow gap, -where heat was concentrated by the funnel-shaped hill-sides, and where -the dark ground, strewed with rotting grass and leaves, harboured hosts -of cock-roaches, beetles, and mosquitos. The supplies, a little grain, -poor sugar-cane, good wild vegetables, at times plantains, were distant, -and the water was vile. Throughout this country, however, the Wasagara -cultivators, fearing plunder should a caravan encamp near their crops, -muster in force; the traveller, therefore, must not unpack except at the -kraals on either edge of the cultivation. - -The dawn of Christmas Day, 1858, saw us toiling along the Kikoboga -River, which we forded four times. We then crossed two deep affluents, -whose banks were thick with fruitless plantains. The road presently -turned up a rough rise, from whose crest began the descent of the -Mabruki Pass. This col may be divided into two steps: the first winds -along a sharp ridge-line, a chain of well-forested hills, whose heights, -bordered on both sides by precipitous slopes of earth overgrown with -thorns and thick bamboo-clumps, command an extensive view of spur and -subrange, of dhun and champaign, sprinkled with villages and dwarf -cones, and watered by streamlets that glisten like lines of quicksilver -in the blue-brown of the hazy distant landscape. Ensues, after a -succession of deep and rugged watercourses, with difficult slopes, the -second step; a short but sharp steep of red earth, corded with the -tree-roots that have been bared by the heavy rains. Beyond this the -path, spanning rough ground at the hill-base, debouches upon the course -of a streamlet flowing southwards from the last heights of Usagara to -the plains of Uziraha in K’hutu. - -The bullock reserved for the occasion having been lost in Uhehe, I had -ordered the purchase of half a dozen goats wherewith to celebrate the -day; the porters, however, were too lazy to collect them. My companion -and I made good cheer upon a fat capon, which acted as roast-beef, and a -mess of ground-nuts sweetened with sugar-cane, which did duty as -plum-pudding. The contrast of what was with what might be now, however, -suggested only pleasurable sensations; long odds were in favour of our -seeing the Christmas Day of 1859, compared with the chances of things at -Msene on the Christmas Day of 1857. - -From Uziraha sixteen hours distributed into fourteen marches conducted -us from Uziraha, at the foot of the Usagara mountains, to Central -Zungomero. The districts traversed were Eastern Mbwiga, Marundwe, and -Kirengwe. The road again realises the European idea of Africa in its -most hideous and grotesque aspect. Animals are scarce amidst the -portentous growth of herbage, not a head of black cattle is seen, flocks -and poultry are rare, and even the beasts of the field seem to flee the -land. The people admitted us into their villages, whose wretched -straw-hovels, contrasting with the luxuriant jungle which hems them in, -look like birds’ nests torn from the trees: all the best settlements, -however, were occupied by parties of touters. At the sight of our -passing caravan the goatherd hurried off his charge, the peasant -prepared to rush into the grass, the women and children slunk and hid -within the hut, and no one ever left his home without a bow and a sheath -of arrows, whose pitchy-coloured bark-necks denoted a fresh layer of -poison. - -We entered Zungomero on the 29th of December, after sighting on the left -the cone at whose base rises the Maji ya W’heta, or Fontaine qui -bouille. The village on the left bank of the Mgeta, which we had -occupied about eighteen months before, had long been level with the -ground; we were therefore conducted with due ceremony into another -settlement on the right of the stream. An army of black musketeers, in -scanty but various and gaudy attire, came out to meet us, and with the -usual shots and shouts conducted us to the headman’s house, which had -already been turned into a kind of barrack by these irregulars. They -then stared as usual for half-a-dozen consecutive hours, which done they -retired to rest. - -After a day’s repose, sending for the Kirangozi, and personally offering -a liberal reward, I opened to him the subject then nearest my heart, -namely, a march upon Kilwa. This proceeding probably irritated the too -susceptible Said bin Salim, and caused him, if not actually to -interfere, at any rate to withhold all aid towards furthering the -project. Twanigana, after a palaver with his people, returned with a -reply that he himself was willing, but that his men would not leave the -direct track. Their reasons were various. Some had become brothers with -the sons of Ramji, and expected employment from their “father.” Others -declared that it would be necessary to march a few miles back, which was -contrary to their custom, and said that they ought to have been warned -of the intention before passing the Makutaniro, or junction of the two -roads. But none expressed any fear, as has since been asserted, of being -sold off into slavery at Kilwa. Such a declaration would have been -ridiculous. Of the many Wanyamwezi caravans that have visited Kilwa none -has ever yet been seized and sold; the coast-people are too well -acquainted with their own interests to secure for themselves a permanent -bad name. Seeing, however, that energetic measures were necessary to -open the road, I allowed them two days for consideration, and warned -them that after that time Posho or rations should be withdrawn. - -On the next day I was privately informed by the Mnfumo or parson of the -caravan, that his comrades intended to make a feint of desertion, and -then to return, if they found us resolved not to follow them. The -reverend gentleman’s sister-in-law, who had accompanied us from -Unyamwezi as cook and concubine to Seedy Bombay, persuaded our managing -man that there was no danger of the porters traversing Uzaramo, without -pay, escort, or provisions. On the 1st January, 1859, however, the gang -rose to depart. I sent for the Kirangozi, who declared that though loth -to leave us he must head his men: in return for which semi-fidelity I -made him name his own reward; he asked two handsome cloths, a Gorah or -piece of domestics, and one Fundo of coral beads--it was double his pay, -but I willingly gave it, and directed Said bin Salim to write an order -to that effect upon Mr. Rush Ramji, or any other Hindu who might happen -to be at Kaole. But I rejected the suggestion of my companion, who -proposed that half the sum agreed upon in Unyanyembe as payment to the -porters--nine cloths each--should be given to them. In the first place, -this donation would have been equivalent to a final dismissal. Secondly, -the Arabs at Kazeh had warned me that it was not their custom to pay in -part those who will not complete the journey to the coast; and I could -see no reason for departing from a commercial precedent, evidently -necessary to curb the Africans’ alacrity in desertion. - -On the day following the departure of the gang I set out to visit the -Jetting Spring, and found when returning to the village shortly before -noon that my companion had sent a man to recal the “Pagazi,” who were -said to be encamped close to the river, and to propose to them a march -upon Mbuamaji. The messenger returned and reported that the Wanyamwezi -had already crossed the river. Unwilling that the wretches should lose -by their headstrongness, I at once ordered Said bin Salim to mount ass -and to bring back the porters by offers which they would have accepted. -Some time afterwards, when I fancied that he was probably haranguing the -men, he came to me to say that he had not eaten and the sun was hot. -With the view of shaming him I directed Kidogo to do the work, but as he -also made excuses, Khamisi and Shehe, two sons of Ramji, were despatched -with cloths to buy rations for the Pagazi, and, _coûte que coûte_, to -bring them back. They set out on the 2nd January, and returned on the -7th January, never having, according to their own account, seen the -fugitives. - -This was a regrettable occurrence: it gave a handle to private malice -under the specious semblance of public duty. But such events are common -on the slave-path in Eastern Africa; of the seven gangs of porters -engaged on this journey only one, an unusually small proportion, left me -without being fully satisfied, and that one deserved to be disappointed. - -We were detained at K’hutu till the 20th January. The airiest of schemes -were ventilated by Said bin Salim and my companion. Three of the Baloch -eye-sores, the “Graybeard Mohammed,” the mischief-maker Khudabakhsh, and -the mulatto Jelai, were sent to the coast with letters, reports, and -officials for Zanzibar and home. The projectors then attempted to engage -Wak’hutu porters, but after a long palaver, P’hazi Madenge, the -principal chief of Uziraha, who at first undertook to transport us in -person to Dut’humi, declared that he could not assist us. It was then -proposed to trust for porterage to the Wazaramo; that project also -necessarily fell to the ground. Two feasible plans remained: either to -write to the coast for a new gang, or to await the transit of some -down-caravan. As the former would have caused an inevitable delay I -preferred the latter, justly thinking that during this, the -travelling-season, we should not long be detained. - -On the 11th January, 1859, a large party of Wanyanwezi, journeying from -the interior to the coast, bivouacked in the village. I easily persuaded -Muhembe, the Mtongi or leader, to make over to me the services of nine -of his men, and lest the African mind might conceive that in dismissing -the last gang cloth or beads had been an object, I issued to these new -porters seventy-two cloths, as much as if they had carried packs from -Unyanwezi to the coast. On the 14th January, 1859, we received Mr. -Apothecary Frost’s letters, drugs, and medical comforts, for which we -had written to him in July 1857. The next day saw us fording the warm -muddy waters of the Mgeta, which was then 100 feet broad: usually -knee-deep, it rises after a few showers to the breast, and during the -heavy rains which had lately fallen it was impassable. We found a little -village on the left bank, and there we sat down patiently to await, -despite the trouble inflicted by a host of diminutive ants, who knew no -rest by day or night, the arrival of another caravan to complete our -gang. The medical comforts so tardily received from Zanzibar fortified -us, however, to some extent against enemies and inconveniences; we had -æther-sherbet and æther-lemonade, formed by combining a wine-glass of -the spirit with a _quant. suff._ of citric acid; and when we wanted a -change the villagers supplied an abundance of Pombe or small beer. - -On the 17th Jan. a numerous down-caravan entered the settlement which we -occupied, and it proved after inquiry to be one of which I had heard -often and much. The chiefs, Sulayman bin Rashid el Riami, a coast-Arab, -accompanied by a Msawahili, Mohammed bin Gharib, and others, called upon -me without delay, and from them I obtained a detailed account of their -interesting travel. - -The merchants had left the coast for Ubena in June, 1857, and their -up-march had lasted six months. They set out with a total of 600 free -men and slaves, armed with 150 guns, hired on the seaboard for eight to -ten dollars per head, half being advanced: they could not persuade the -Wanyamwezi to traverse these regions. The caravan followed the Mbuamaji -trunk-road westward as far as Maroro in Usagara, thence deflecting -southwards it crossed the Rwaha River, which at the ford was knee-deep. -The party travelled through the Wahehe and the Wafaji, south of and far -from the stream, to avoid the Warori, who hold both banks. The sultan of -these freebooters, being at war with the Wabena, would not have -permitted merchants to pass on to his enemies, and even in time of peace -he fines them, it is said, one half of their property for safe-conduct. -On the right hand of the caravan, or to the south from Uhehe to Ubena, -was a continuous chain of highlands, pouring affluents across the road -into the Rwaha River, and water was procurable only in the beds of these -nullahs and fiumaras. If this chain be of any considerable length, it -may represent the water-parting between the Tanganyika and the Nyassa -Lakes, and thus divide by another and a southerly lateral band the great -Depression of Central Africa. The land was dry and barren; in fact, -Ugogo without its calabashes. Scarcely a blade of grass appeared upon -the whity-brown soil, and the travellers marvelled how the numerous -herds obtained their sustenance. The masika or rainy monsoon began -synchronously with that of Unyamwezi, but it lasted little more than -half its period in the north. In the sparse cultivation, surrounded by -dense bush, they were rarely able to ration oftener than once a week. -They were hospitably received by Kimanu, the Jyari or Sultan of Ubena. -His people, though fierce and savage, appeared pleased by the sight of -strangers. The Wabena wore a profusion of beads, and resembled in dress, -diet, and lodging the Warori; they were brave to recklessness, and -strictly monarchical, swearing by their chief. The Warori, however, were -the cleaner race; they washed and bathed, whilst the Wabena used the -same fluid to purify teeth, face, and hands. - -At Ubena the caravan made considerable profits in slaves and ivory. The -former, mostly captured or kidnapped, were sold for four to six fundo of -beads, and, merchants being rare, a large stock was found on hand. About -800 were purchased, as each Pagazi or porter could afford one at least. -On the return-march, however, half of the property deserted. The ivory, -which rather resembled the valuable article procured at Karagwah than -the poor produce of Unyanyembe, sold at 35 to 70 fundo of yellow and -other coloured beads per frasilah of 35 lbs. Cloth was generally -refused, and the kitindi or wire armlets were useful only in purchasing -provisions. - -On its return the caravan, following for eighteen stages the right bank -of the Rwaha River, met with an unexpected misfortune. They were -nighting in a broad fiumara called Bonye, a tributary from the southern -highlands to the main artery, when suddenly a roar and rush of waters -fast approaching and the cries of men struck them with consternation. In -the confusion which ensued 150 souls, for the most part slaves, and -probably ironed or corded together, were carried away by the torrent, -and the porters lost a great part of the ivory. A more dangerous place -for encampment can scarcely be imagined, yet the East African everywhere -prefers it because it is warm at night, and the surface is soft. In the -neighbourhood of the Rwaha they entered the capital district of Mui’ -Gumbi, the chief, after a rude reception on the frontier, where the -people, mistaking them for a plundering party of Wabena, gathered in -arms to the number of 4000. When the error was perceived, the Warori -warmly welcomed the traders, calling them brothers, and led them to the -quarters of their Sultan. Mui’ Gumbi was apparently in his 70th year, a -man of venerable look, tall, burly, and light-coloured, with large ears, -and a hooked nose like a “moghrebi.” His sons, about thirty in number, -all resembled him, their comeliness contrasting strongly with the common -clansmen, who are considered by their chiefs as slaves. A tradition -derives the origin of this royal race from Madagascar or one of its -adjoining islets. Mui’ Gumbi wore a profusion of beads, many of them -antiquated in form and colour, and now unknown in the market of -Zanzibar: above his left elbow he had a lumpy bracelet of ivory, a -decoration appropriated to chieftains. The Warori expressed their -surprise that the country had not been lately visited by caravans, and, -to encourage others, the Sultan offered large gangs of porters without -pay to his visitors. These men never desert; such disobedience would -cost them their lives. From the settlement of Mui’ Gumbi to the coast -the caravan travelled without accident, but under great hardships, -living on roots and grasses for want of means to buy provisions. - -The same caravan-traders showed me divers specimens of the Warori, and -gave me the following description, which tallied with the details -supplied by Snay bin Amin and the Arabs of Kazeh. - -The Warori extend from the western frontier of the Wahehe, about forty -marches along principally the northern bank of the Rwaha River, to the -meridian of Eastern Unyanyembe. They are a semi-pastoral tribe, -continually at war with their neighbours. They never sell their own -people, but attack the Wabena, the Wakimbu, the Wahehe, the Wakonongo, -and the races about Unyangwira, and drive their captives to the sea, or -dispose of them to the slavers in Usagara. The price is of course cheap; -a male adult is worth from two to six shukkah merkani. Some years ago a -large plundering party, under their chief Mbangera, attacked Sultan -Kalala of the Wasukuma; they were, however, defeated, with the loss of -their leader, by Kafrira of Kivira, the son-in-law of Kalala. They also -ravaged Unyanyembe, and compelled the people to take refuge on the -summit of a natural rock-fortress between Kazeh and Yombo, and they have -more than once menaced the dominions of Fundikira. Those mighty boasters -the Wagogo hold the Warori in awe; as the Arabs say, they shrink small -as a cubit before foes fiercer than themselves. The Warori have wasted -the lands of Uhehe and Unyangwira, and have dispersed the Wakimbu and -the Wamia tribes. They have closed the main-road from the seaboard by -exorbitant blackmail and charges for water, and about five years ago -they murdered two coast Arab traders from Mbuamaji. Since their late -defeat by the Watuta, they have been comparatively quiet. When the E. -African Expedition, however, entered the country they had just -distinguished themselves by driving the herds from Ugogi, and thus -prevented any entrance into their country from that district. Like the -pastoral races generally of this portion of the peninsula, the object -of their raids is cattle: when a herd falls into their hands, they fly -at the beasts like hyænas, pierce them with their assegais, hack off -huge slices, and devour the meat raw. - -The Warori are small and shrivelled black savages. Their diminutive size -is doubtless the effect of scanty food, continued through many -generations: the Sultans, however, are a peculiarly fine large race of -men. The slave-specimens observed had no distinguishing mark on the -teeth; in all cases, however, two short lines were tattooed across the -hollow of the temples. The male dress is a cloak of strung beads, -weighing ten or twelve pounds, and covering the shoulders like a -European cape. Some wind a large girdle of the same material round the -waist. The women wear a bead-kilt extending to the knees, or, if unable -to afford it, a wrapper of skin. The favourite weapon is a light, thin, -and pliable assegai; they carry a sheath of about a dozen, and throw -them with great force and accuracy. The bow is unknown. They usually -press to close quarters, each man armed with a long heavy spear. Iron is -procured in considerable quantities both in Ubena and Urori. The -habitations are said to be large Tembe, capable of containing 400 to 500 -souls. The principal articles of diet are milk, meat, and especially -fattened dog’s flesh--of which the chiefs are inordinately fond,--maize, -holcus, and millet. Rice is not grown in these arid districts. They -manage their intoxication by means of pombe made of grain and the bhang, -which is smoked in gourd-pipes; they also mix the cannabis with their -vegetable food. The Warori are celebrated for power of abstinence; they -will march, it is said, six days without eating, and they require to -drink but once in the twenty-four hours. In one point they resemble the -Bedouins of Arabia: the chief will entertain his guests hospitably as -long as they remain in his village, but he will plunder them the moment -they leave it. - -On the 19th January the expected down-caravan of Wanyamwezi arrived, and -I found no difficulty in completing our carriage--a fair proof, be it -remarked, that I had not lost the confidence of the people. The Mtongi, -however, was, or perhaps pretended to be, ill; we were, therefore, -delayed for another day in a place which had no charms for us. - -The 21st January enabled us to bid adieu to Zungomero and merrily to -take the footpath way. We made Konduchi on the 3rd February, after -twelve marches, which were accomplished in fifteen days. There was -little of interest or adventure in this return-line, of which the nine -first stations had already been visited and described. As the Yegea mud, -near Dut’humi, was throat-deep, we crossed it lower down: it was still a -weary trudge of several miles through thick slabby mire, which admitted -a man to his knees. In places, after toiling under a sickly sun, we -crept under the tunnels of thick jungle-growth veiling the Mgazi and -other streams; the dank and fetid cold caused a deadly sensation of -faintness, which was only relieved by a glass of æther-sherbet, a pipe -or two of the strongest tobacco, and half an hour’s repose. By degrees -it was found necessary to abandon the greater part of the remaining -outfit and the luggage: the Wanyamwezi, as they neared their -destination, became even less manageable than before, and the sons of -Ramji now seemed to consider their toils at an end. On the 25th January -we forded the cold, strong, yellow stream of the Mgeta, whose sandy bed -had engulfed my elephant-gun, and we entered with steady hearts the -formerly dreaded Uzaramo. The 27th January saw us pass safely by the -village where M. Maizan came to an untimely end. On that day Ramazan and -Salman, children of Said bin Salim, returned from Zanzibar Island, -bringing letters, clothing, and provisions for their master, who, by way -of small revenge, had despatched them secretly from Zungomero. On the -28th January we reached the Makutaniro or anastomosis of the Kaole and -Mbuamaji roads, where on our ingress the Wazaramo had barred passage in -force. No one now ventured to dispute the way with well-armed paupers. -That evening, however, the Mtongi indulged his men with “maneno,” a -harangue. Reports about fatal skirmishes between the Wazaramo and a -caravan of Wanyamwezi that had preceded us had flown about the camp; -consequently the Mtongi recommended prudence. “There would be danger -to-morrow--a place of ambuscade--the porters must not rise and be off -too early nor too late--they must not hasten on, nor lag behind--they -had with them Wazungu, and in case of accidents they would lose their -name!” The last sentence was frequently repeated with ever increasing -emphasis, and each period of the discourse was marked by a general -murmur, denoting attention. - -As I have said, there was no danger. Yet on the next day a report arose -that we were to be attacked in a dense thicket--where no archer, be it -observed, could bend his bow--a little beyond the junction of the -Mbuamaji road with that of Konduchi, our destination. In the afternoon -Said bin Salim, with important countenance, entered my tent and -disclosed to me the doleful tidings. The road was cut off. He knew it. A -great friend of his--a slave--had told him so. He remembered warning me -that such was the case five days ago. I must either delay till an escort -could be summoned from the coast, or--I must fee a chief to precede me -and to reason with the enemy. It was in vain to storm, I feared that -real obstacles might be placed by the timid and wily little man in our -way, and I consented most unwillingly to pay two coloured cloths, and -one ditto of blue-cotton, as hire to guard that appeared in the shape of -four clothless varlets, that left us after the first quarter of an hour. -The Baloch, headed by the Jemadar, knowing that all was safe, -distinguished themselves on that night, for the first time in eighteen -months, by uttering the shouts which prove that the Oriental soldier is -doing “Zam,” _i.e._ is on the _qui vive_. When requested not to make so -much noise they grumbled that it was for our sake, not for theirs. - -On the 30th January our natives of Zanzibar screamed with delight at the -sight of the mango-tree, and pointed out to one another, as they -appeared in succession, the old familiar fruits, jacks and pine-apples, -limes and cocoes. On the 2nd February we greeted, with doffed caps and -with three times three and one more, as Britons will do on such -occasions, the kindly smiling face of our father Neptune as he lay -basking in the sunbeams between earth and air. Finally, the 3rd February -1859 saw us winding through the poles decorated with skulls--they now -grin in the Royal College of Surgeons, London--a negro Temple-bar which -pointed out the way into the little maritime village of Konduchi. - -Our entrance was attended with the usual ceremony, now familiar to the -reader: the warmen danced, shot, and shouted, a rabble of adults, -youths, and boys crowded upon us, the fair sex lulliloo’d with vigour, -and a general procession conducted their strangers to the hut swept, -cleaned, and garnished for us by old Premji, the principal Banyan of the -head-quarter village, and there stared and laughed till they could stare -and laugh no more. - -On the evening of the same day an opportunity offered of transferring -the Jemadar, the Baloch, and my _bête noire_, Kidogo, to their homes in -Zanzibar Island, which lies within sight of Konduchi: as may be -imagined, I readily availed myself of it. After begging powder and _et -cæteras_ to the last, the monocular insisted upon kissing my hand, and -departed weeping bitterly with the agony of parting. By the same boat I -sent a few lines to H. M. consul, Zanzibar, enclosing a list of -necessaries, and requesting that a Battela, or coasting-craft, might be -hired, provisioned, and despatched without delay, as I purposed to -explore the Delta and the unknown course of the Rufiji River. In due -time Said bin Salim and his “children,” including the fair Halimah and -Zawada--the latter was liberally rewarded by me for services rendered to -my companion--and shortly afterwards the sons of Ramji, or rather the -few who had not deserted or lagged behind, were returned to their -master, and were, I doubt not, received with all the kindness which -their bad conduct deserved. - -We were detained at Konduchi for six days between the 3rd and 10th -February. There is nothing interesting in this little African village -port: instead of describing it, I will enter into a few details -concerning African matters of more general importance. - -[Illustration: The Ivory Porter, the Cloth Porter, and Woman, in -Usagara.] - - - - -CHAP. XVIII. - -VILLAGE LIFE IN EAST AFRICA. - - -The assertion may startle the reader’s preconceived opinions concerning -the savage state of Central Africa and the wretched condition of the -slave races, negroid and negro; but is not less true that the African is -in these regions superior in comforts, better dressed, fed, and lodged, -and less worked than the unhappy Ryot of British India. His condition, -where the slave trade is slack, may, indeed, be compared advantageously -with that of the peasantry in some of the richest of European -countries. - -[Illustration: THE BASIN OF KISANGA.] - -The African rises with the dawn from his couch of cow’s hide. The hut is -cool and comfortable during the day, but the barred door impeding -ventilation at night causes it to be close and disagreeable. The hour -before sunrise being the coldest time, he usually kindles a fire, and -addresses himself to his constant companion, the pipe. When the sun -becomes sufficiently powerful, he removes the reed-screen from the -entrance, and issues forth to bask in the morning-beams. The villages -are populous, and the houses touching one another enable the occupants, -when squatting outside and fronting the central square, to chat and -chatter without moving. About 7 A.M., when the dew has partially -disappeared from the grass, the elder boys drive the flocks and herds to -pasture with loud shouts and sounding applications of the quarter-staff. -They return only when the sun is sinking behind the western horizon. At -8 P.M. those who have provisions at home enter the hut to refection with -ugali or holcus-porridge; those who have not, join a friend. Pombe, when -procurable, is drunk from the earliest dawn. - -After breaking his fast the African repairs, pipe in hand, to the -Iwánzá--the village “public,” previously described. Here, in the society -of his own sex, he will spend the greater part of the day, talking and -laughing, smoking, or torpid with sleep. Occasionally he sits down to -play. As with barbarians generally, gambling in him is a passion. The -normal game is our “heads and tails,” its implement a flat stone, a -rough circle of tin, or the bottom of a broken pot. The more civilised -have learned the “bao” of the coast, a kind of “tables,” with counters -and cups hollowed in a solid plank. Many of the Wanyamwezi have been -compelled by this indulgence to sell themselves into slavery: after -playing through their property, they even stake their aged mothers -against the equivalent of an old lady in these lands,--a cow or a pair -of goats. As may be imagined, squabbles are perpetual; they are almost -always, however, settled amongst fellow-villagers with bloodless -weapons. Others, instead of gambling, seek some employment which, -working the hands and leaving the rest of the body and the mind at ease, -is ever a favourite with the Asiatic and the African; they whittle wood, -pierce and wire their pipe-sticks--an art in which all are adepts--shave -one another’s heads, pluck out their beards, eyebrows, and eyelashes, -and prepare and polish their weapons. - -At about 1 P.M. the African, unless otherwise employed, returns to his -hut to eat the most substantial and the last meal of the day, which has -been cooked by his women. Eminently gregarious, however, he often -prefers the Iwánzá as a dining-room, where his male children, relatives, -and friends meet during the most important hour of the twenty-four. With -the savage and the barbarian food is the all-in-all of life:--food is -his thought by day,--food is his dream by night. The civilised European, -who never knows hunger or thirst without the instant means of gratifying -every whim of appetite, can hardly conceive the extent to which his wild -brother’s soul is swayed by stomach; he can scarcely comprehend the -state of mental absorption in which the ravenous human animal broods -over the carcase of an old goat, the delight which he takes in -superintending every part of the cooking process, and the jealous eye -with which he regards all who live better than himself. - -The principal articles of diet are fish and flesh, grain and vegetables; -the luxuries are milk and butter, honey, and a few fruits, as bananas -and Guinea-palm dates; and the inebrients are pombe or millet-beer, -toddy, and mawa or plantain-wine. - -Fish is found in the lakes and in the many rivers of this well-watered -land; it is despised by those who can afford flesh, but it is a -“godsend” to travellers, to slaves, and to the poor. Meat is the diet -most prized; it is, however, a luxury beyond the reach of peasantry, -except when they can pick up the orts of the chiefs. The Arabs assert -that in these latitudes vegetables cause heartburn and acidity, and that -animal food is the most digestible. The Africans seem to have made the -same discovery: a man who can afford it almost confines himself to -flesh, and he considers fat the essential element of good living. The -crave for meat is satisfied by eating almost every description of living -thing, clean or unclean; as a rule, however, the East African prefers -beef, which strangers find flatulent and heating. Like most people, they -reject game when they can command the flesh of tame beasts. Next to the -bullock the goat is preferred in the interior; as indeed it is by the -Arabs of Zanzibar Island; whereas those of Oman and of Western Arabia -abandon it to the Bedouins. In this part of Africa the cheapest and -vilest meat is mutton, and its appearance--pale, soft, and -braxy--justifies the prejudice against it. Of late years it has become -the fashion to eat poultry and pigeons; eggs, however, are still -avoided. In the absence of history and tradition, it is difficult to -decide whether this aversion to eggs arises from an imported or an -indigenous prejudice. The mundane egg of Hindoo mythology probably -typified the physiological dogma “omne vivum ex ovo,” and the mystic -disciples would avoid it as representing the principle of life. In -remote ages the prejudice may have extended to Africa, although the idea -which gave birth to it was not familiar to the African mind. Of wild -flesh, the favourite is that of the zebra; it is smoked or jerked, -despite which it retains a most savoury flavour. Of the antelopes a few -are deliciously tender and succulent; the greater part are black, -coarse, and indigestible. One of the inducements for an African to -travel is to afford himself more meat than at home. His fondness for the -article conquers at times even his habitual improvidence. He preserves -it by placing large lumps upon a little platform of green reeds, erected -upon uprights about eighteen inches high, and by smoking it with a slow -fire. Thus prepared, and with the addition of a little salt, the -provision will last for several days, and the porters will not object to -increase their loads by three or four pounds of the article, disposed -upon a long stick like gigantic kababs. They also jerk their stores by -exposing the meat upon a rope, or spread upon a flat stone, for two or -three days in the sun; it loses a considerable portion of nutriment, but -it packs into a conveniently small compass. This jerked meat, when -dried, broken into small pieces, and stored in gourds or in pots full of -clarified and melted butter, forms the celebrated travelling provision -in the East called kavurmeh: it is eaten as a relish with rice and other -boiled grains. When meat is not attainable and good water is scarce, the -African severs one of the jugulars of a bullock and fastens upon it like -a leech. This custom is common in Karagwah and the other northern -kingdoms, and some tribes, like the Wanyika, near Mombasah, churn the -blood with milk. - -The daily food of the poor is grain, generally holcus, maize, or bajri -(panicum); wheat is confined to the Arabs, and rice grows locally, as in -the Indian peninsula. The inner Africans, like the semi-civilised Arabs -of Zanzibar, the Wasawahili, and the Wamrima, ignore the simple art of -leavening bread by acidulated whey, sour bean-paste, and similar -contrivances universally practised in Oman. Even the rude Indian chapati -or scone is too artificial for them, and they have not learned to toast -grain. Upon journeys the African boils his holcus unhusked in an earthen -basin, drinks the water, and devours the grain, which in this state is -called masango; at home he is more particular. The holcus is either -rubbed upon a stone--the mill being wholly unknown--or pounded with a -little water in a huge wooden mortar; when reduced to a coarse powder, -it is thrown into an earthen pot containing boiling water sufficient to -be absorbed by the flour; a little salt, when procurable, is added; and -after a few stirrings with a ladle, or rather with a broad and -flat-ended stick, till thoroughly saturated, the thick mass is -transferred into a porous basket, which allows the extra moisture to -leak out. Such is the ugali, or porridge, the staff of life in East -Africa. - -During the rains vegetables are common in the more fertile parts of East -Africa; they are within reach of the poorest cultivator. Some varieties, -especially the sweet potato and the mushroom, are sliced and sun-dried -to preserve them through the year. During the barren summer they are -boiled into a kind of broth. - -Milk is held in high esteem by all tribes, and some live upon it almost -exclusively during the rains, when cattle find plentiful pasture. It is -consumed in three forms--“mabichi,” when drunk fresh; or converted into -mabivu (butter-milk), the rubb of Arabs; or in the shape of mtindi -(curded milk), the laban of Arabia, and the Indian dahi. These Africans -ignore the dudh-pinda, or ball of fresh-milk boiled down to hardness by -evaporation of the serum, as practised by the Indian halwaí -(confectioner); the indurated sour-clot of Arabia, called by the -Bedouins el igt, and by the Persians the Baloch, and the Sindhians -kurut, is also unknown; and they consider cheese a miracle, and use -against it their stock denunciation, the danger of bewitching cattle. -The fresh produce, moreover, has few charms as a poculent amongst -barbarous and milk-drinking races: the Arabs and the Portuguese in -Africa avoid it after the sun is high, believing it to increase bile, -and eventually to cause fever: it is certain that, however pleasant the -draught may be in the cool of the morning, it is by no means so much -relished during the heat of the day. On the other hand, the curded milk -is everywhere a favourite on account of its cooling and thirst-quenching -properties, and the people accustomed to it from infancy have for it an -excessive longing. It is procurable in every village where cows are -kept, whereas that newly-drawn is generally half-soured from being at -once stored in the earthen pots used for curding it. These East Africans -do not, however, make their dahi, like the Somal, in lumps floating upon -the tartest possible serum; nor do they turn it, like the Arabs, with -kid’s rennet, nor like the Baloch with the solanaceous plant called -panir. The best is made, as in India, by allowing the milk to stand till -it clots in a pot used for the purpose, and frequently smoked for -purity. Butter-milk is procurable only in those parts of the country -where the people have an abundance of cattle. - -Butter is made by filling a large gourd, which acts as churn, with -partially-soured milk, which is shaken to and fro: it is a poor article, -thin, colourless, and tainted by being stored for two or three months, -without preliminary washing, in the bark-boxes called vilindo. In the -Eastern regions it is converted into ghee by simply melting over the -fire: it is not boiled to expel the remnant of sour milk, impurities are -not removed by skimming, and finally it becomes rancid and bitter by -storing in pots and gourds which have been used for the purpose during -half a generation. The Arabs attempt to do away with the nauseous taste -by throwing into it when boiling a little water, with a handful of flour -or of unpowdered rice. Westward of Unyamwezi butter is burned instead of -oil in lamps. - -The common oil in East Africa is that of the karanga, bhuiphali, or -ground-nut (Arachis hypogæa): when ghee is not procurable, the Arabs eat -it, like cocoa-nut oil, with beans, manioc, sweet-potato and other -vegetables. A superior kind of cooking is the “uto” extracted from the -ufuta, simsim or sesamum, which grows everywhere upon the coast, and -extends far into the interior. The process of pressing is managed by -pounding the grain dry in a huge mortar; when the oil begins to appear, -a little hot water is poured in, and the mass is forcibly squeezed with -huge pestles; all that floats is then ladled out into pots and gourds. -The viscid chikichi (palm-oil) is found only in the vicinity of the -Tanganyika Lake, although the tree grows in Zanzibar and its adjacent -islets. Oil is extracted from the two varieties of the castor-plant; -and, in spite of its unsavoury smell, it is extensively used as an -unguent by the people. At Unyanyembe and other places where the cucumber -grows almost wild, the Arabs derive from its seed an admirable -salad-oil, which in flavour equals, and perhaps surpasses, the finest -produce of the olive. The latter tree is unknown in East Africa to the -Arabs, who speak of it with a religious respect, on account of the -mention made of it in the Koran. - -In East Africa every man is his own maltster; and the “Iwánzá,” or -public-house of the village, is the common brewery. In some tribes, -however, fermentation is the essential occupation of the women. The -principal inebrient is a beer without hops, called pombe. This ποτος -θειος of the negro and negroid races dates from the age of Osiris: it is -the buzah of Egypt and the farther East, and the merissa of the Upper -Nile, the ξιθον and xythum of the West, and the oala or boyaloa of the -Kafirs and the South African races. The taste is somewhat like soured -wort of the smallest description, but strangers, who at first dislike it -exceedingly, are soon reconciled to it by the pleasurable sensations to -which it gives rise. Without violent action, it affects the head, and -produces an agreeable narcotism, followed by sound sleep and heaviness -in the morning--as much liked by the barbarian, to whom inebriation is a -boon, as feared by the civilised man. Being, as the Arabs say, a “cold -drink,” causing hydrocele and rheumatism, it has some of the -after-effects of gin, and the drunkard is readily recognised by his red -and bleared eyes. When made thick with the grounds or sediment of grain, -it is exceedingly nutricious. Many a gallon must be drunk by the veteran -malt-worm before intoxication; and individuals of both sexes sometimes -live almost entirely upon pombe. It is usually made as follows: half of -the grain--holcus, panicum, or both mixed--intended for the brew is -buried or soaked in water till it sprouts; it is then pounded and mixed -with the other half, also reduced to flour, and sometimes with a little -honey. The compound is boiled twice or thrice in huge pots, strained, -when wanted clear, through a bag of matting, and allowed to ferment: -after the third day it becomes as sour as vinegar. The “togwa” is a -favourite drink, also made of holcus. At first it is thick and sickly, -like honeyed gruel; when sour it becomes exceedingly heady. As these -liquors consume a quantity of grain, they are ever expensive; the large -gourdful never fetches less than two khete or strings of beads, and -strangers must often pay ten khete for the luxury. Some years ago an -Arab taught the Wanyamwezi to distil: they soon, however, returned to -their favourite fermentation. - -The use of pombe is general throughout the country: the other inebrients -are local. At the island and on the coast of Zanzibar tembo, or toddy, -in the West African dialects tombo, is drawn from the cocoa-tree; and in -places a pernicious alcohol, called mvinyo, is extracted from it. The -Wajiji and other races upon the Tanganyika Lake tap the Guinea-palm for -a toddy, which, drawn in unclean pots, soon becomes acid and acrid as -the Silesian wine that serves to mend the broken limbs of the poor. The -use of bhang and datura-seed has already been alluded to. “Máwá,” or -plantain-wine, is highly prized because it readily intoxicates. The -fruit when ripe is peeled and hand-kneaded with coarse green grass, in a -wide-mouthed earthen pot, till all the juice is extracted: the sweet -must is then strained through a _cornet_ of plantain-leaf into a clean -gourd, which is but partially stopped. To hasten fermentation a handful -of toasted or pounded grain is added: after standing for two days in a -warm room the wine is ready for drinking. - -The East Africans ignore the sparkling berille or hydromel of Abyssinia -and Harar, and the mead of the Bushman race. Yet honey abounds -throughout the country, and near the villages log-hives, which from -their shape are called mazinga or cannons by the people, hang from every -tall and shady tree. Bees also swarm in the jungles, performing an -important part in the vegetable economy by masculation or -caprification, and the conveyance of pollen. Their produce is of two -kinds. The cheaper resembles wasp-honey in Europe; it is found in the -forest, and stored in gourds. More than half-filled with dirt and -wood-bark, it affords but little wax; the liquid is thin and watery, and -it has a peculiarly unpleasant flavour. The better variety, the -hive-honey, is as superior to the produce of the jungle as it is -inferior to that of India and of more civilised lands. It is tolerable -until kept too long, and it supplies a good yellow wax, used by the -Arabs to mix with tallow in the manufacture of “dips.” The best honey is -sold after the rains; but the African hoards his store till it reddens, -showing the first stage of fermentation: he will eat it after the second -or third year, when it thins, froths, and becomes a rufous-brown fluid -of unsavoury taste; and he rarely takes the trouble to remove the comb, -though the Arabs set him the example of straining the honey through bags -of plantain-straw or matting. Decomposition, moreover, is assisted by -softening the honey over the fire to extract the wax instead of placing -it in the sun. The price varies from one to three cloths for a large -gourdful. When cheap, the Arabs make from it “honey-sugar:” the -material, after being strained and cleaned, is stored for two or three -weeks in a cool place till surface-granulation takes place; the produce -resembles in taste and appearance coarse brown sugar. The “siki,” a -vinegar of the country, is also made of one part honey and four of -water, left for a fortnight to acetise: it is weak and insipid. Honey is -the only sweetener in the country, except in the places where the -sugar-cane grows, namely, the maritime and the Lakist regions. The -people chew it, ignoring the simple art of extracting and inspissating -the juice; nor do they, like the natives of Usumbara, convert it into an -inebrient. Yet sugar attracts them like flies; they clap their hands -with delight at the taste; they buy it for its weight of ivory; and if a -thimbleful of the powder happen to fall upon the ground, they will eat -an ounce of earth rather than lose a grain of it. - -After eating, the East African invariably indulges in a long fit of -torpidity, from which he awakes to pass the afternoon as he did the -forenoon, chatting, playing, smoking, and chewing “sweet-earth.” Towards -sunset all issue forth to enjoy the coolness: the men sit outside the -Iwánzá, whilst the women and the girls, after fetching water for -household wants from the well, collecting in a group upon their little -stools, indulge in the pleasures of gossipred and the pipe. This hour in -the more favoured parts of the country is replete with enjoyment, which -even the barbarian feels, though not yet indoctrinated into æsthetics. -As the hours of darkness draw nigh, the village doors are carefully -closed, and, after milking his cows, each peasant retires to his hut, or -passes his time squatting round the fire with his friends in the Iwánzá. -He has not yet learned the art of making a wick, and of filling a bit of -pottery with oil. When a light is wanted, he ignites a stick of the -oleaginous mtata, or msásá-tree--a yellow, hard, close-grained, and -elastic wood, with few knots, much used in making spears, bows, and -walking staves--which burns for a quarter of an hour with a brilliant -flame. He repairs to his hard couch before midnight, and snores with a -single sleep till dawn. For thorough enjoyment, night must be spent in -insensibility, as day is in inebriety; and, though an early riser, he -avoids the “early to bed,” in order that he may be able to slumber -through half the day. - -It is evident that these barbarians lead rather a “fast” life; there -are, however, two points that modify its evil consequences. The “damned -distillation” is unknown, consequently they do not suffer from delirium -tremens, its offspring. Their only brain-work is that necessitated by -the simple wants of life, and by the unartificial style of gambling -which they affect. Amongst the civilized, the peculiar state of the -nervous system in the individual, and in society, the abnormal -conditions induced by overcrowding in cities and towns, has engendered a -cohort of dire diseases which the children of nature ignore. - -Such is the African’s idle day, and thus every summer is spent. As the -wintry rains draw nigh, the necessity of daily bread suggests itself. -The peasants then leave their huts at 6 or 7 A.M., often without -provision, which now becomes scarce, and labour till noon, or 2 P.M., -when they return home, and find food prepared by the wife or the -slave-girl. During the afternoon they return to work, and sometimes, -when the rains are near, they are aided by the women. Towards sunset all -wend homewards in a body, laden with their implements of cultivation, -and singing a kind of “dulce domum,” in a simple and pleasing -recitative. - -When the moon shines bright the spirits of the East African are raised -like the jackal’s, and a furious drumming and a droning chorus summon -the maidens to come out and enjoy the spectacle of a dance. The sexes -seldom perform together, but they have no objection to be gazed at by -each other. Their style of saltation is remarkable only for the extreme -gravity which it induces--at no other time does the East African look -so serious and so full of earnest purpose. Yet with all this -thoughtfulness, “poor human nature cannot dance of itself.” The dance -has already been described as far as possible: as may be imagined, the -African Thalia is by no means free from the reproach which caused -Mohammed to taboo her to his followers. - -Music is at a low ebb. Admirable timists, and no mean tunists, the -people betray their incapacity for improvement by remaining contented -with the simplest and the most monotonous combinations of sounds. As in -everything else, so in this art, creative talent is wanting. A higher -development would have produced other results; yet it is impossible not -to remark the delight which they take in harmony. The fisherman will -accompany his paddle, the porter his trudge, and the housewife her task -of rubbing down grain, with song; and for long hours at night the -peasants will sit in a ring repeating, with a zest that never flags, the -same few notes, and the same unmeaning line. Their style is the -recitative, broken by a full chorus, and they appear to affect the major -rather than the interminable minor key of the Asiatic. Their singing -also wants the strained upper notes of the cracked-voiced Indian -performer, and it ignores the complicated raga and ragini or Hindu -modes, which appear rather the musical expression of high mathematics -than the natural language of harmony and melody. - -[Illustration: - -1. Paddle in East Africa. - -2. The Sange or Gourd. - -3. Bellows. - -4. Drum. - -5. Stool. - -6. The Zeze (guitar). - -7. The D’hete, or Kidete.] - -The instruments of the East African are all of foreign invention, -imported from various regions, Madagascar, and the coast. Those -principally in use are the following. The zeze, or banjo, resembles in -sound the monochord Arabian rubabah, the rude ancestor of the Spanish -guitar. The sounding-board is a large hollow gourd, open below; on the -upper part, fastened by strings that pass through drilled holes, is a -conical piece of gourd, cleft longitudinally to admit the arm or handle, -which projects at a right angle. The arm is made of light wood, from 18 -inches to 2 feet in length; the left-hand extremity has three frets -formed by two notches, with intervals, and thus the total range is of -six notes. A single string, made of “mondo,” the fibre of the mwale or -raphia-palm, is tied to a knob of wood projecting from the dexter -extremity of the handle, thence it passes over a bridge of bent quill, -which for tuning is raised or depressed, and lastly it is secured round -another knob at the end beyond the frets. Sometimes, to form a bass or -drone, a second string is similarly attached along the side of the arm, -whilst the treble runs along the top. - -The kinanda, a prototype of the psaltery and harp, the lute and lyre, -and much used by the southern races in the neighbourhood of Kilwa, is of -two kinds. One is a shallow box cut out of a single plank, thirteen -inches long by five or six in breadth, and about two inches in depth: -eleven or twelve strings are drawn tightly over the hollow. The -instrument is placed in the lap, and performed upon with both hands. The -other is a small bow-guitar, with an open gourd attached to the part -about the handle: sometimes the bow passes through the gourd. This -instrument is held in the left hand, whilst the “tocador” strikes its -single cord with a thin cane-plectrum about one foot long. As in the -zeze, the gourd is often adorned with black tattoo, or bright brass -tacks, disposed in various patterns, amongst which the circle and the -crescent figure conspicuously. A third form of the kinanda appears to be -a barbarous ancestor of the Grecian lyre, which, like the modern Nubian -“kisirka,” is a lineal descendant from the Egyptian oryx-horn lute with -the transverse bar. A combination of the zeze and kinanda is made by -binding a dwarf hollow box with its numerous strings to the open top of -a large circular gourd, which then acts as a sounding-board. - -The wind-instruments are equally rude, though by no means so feeble as -their rivals. The nai or sackbut of India, and the siwa, a huge bassoon -of black wood, at least five feet long, are known only to the -coast-people. The tribes of the interior use the d’hete or kidete, -called by the Wasawahili zumari. It is literally the bucolic reed, a -hollowed holcus-cane, pierced with four holes at the further end: the -mouthpiece is not stopped in any way, and the instrument is played upon -solely by the lips, a drone being sometimes supplied by the voice. Thus -simple and ineffective, it has nevertheless a familiar sound to European -ears. The barghumi is made by cutting an oblong hole, about the size of -a man’s nail, within two or three inches of the tip of a koodoo, an -oryx, or a goat’s horn, which, for effect and appearance, is sometimes -capped with a bit of cane, whence projects a long zebra’s or giraffe’s -tail. Like the det’he, it is played upon by the lips; and without any -attempt at stops or keys, four or five notes may be produced. Its sound, -heard from afar, especially in the deep silence of a tropical night, -resembles not a little the sad, sweet music of the French -_cor-de-chasse_; and when well performed upon, it might be mistaken for -a regimental bugle. There are smaller varieties of the barghumi, which -porters carry slung over the shoulder, and use as signals on the line of -march. Another curious instrument is a gourd, a few inches in -circumference, drilled with many little apertures: the breath passes -through one hole, and certain notes are produced by stopping others with -the fingers--its loud, shrill, and ear-piercing quavers faintly resemble -the European “piccolo.” The only indigenous music of the pastoral -African--the Somal, for instance--is whistling, a habit acquired in -youth when tending the flocks and herds. This “Mu’unzi” is soft and -dulcet; the ear, however, fails to detect in it either phrase or tune. -For signals the East Africans practise the kik’horombwe, or blowing -between the fore and the middle fingers with a noise like that of a -railway whistle. The Wanyamwezi also blow over the edge of the hollow in -a small antelope’s horn, or through an iron tube; and the Watuta are -said to use metal-whistles as signals in battle. - -The drum is ever the favourite instrument with the African, who uses it -as the alarum of war, the promise of mirth, the token of hospitality, -and the cure of diseases: without drumming his life would indeed be a -blank. The largest variety, called “ngoma ku,” is the hollowed hole of a -mkenga or other soft tree, with a cylindrical solid projection from the -bottom, which holds it upright when planted in the ground. The -instrument is from three to five feet in length with a diameter of from -one to two feet: the outside is protected with a net-work of strong -cord. Over the head is stretched a rough parchment made of calf’s-skin; -and a cap of green hide, mounted when loose, and afterwards shrunken by -exposure to fire, protects the bottom. It is vigorously beaten with the -fists, and sometimes with coarse sticks. There are many local varieties -of this instrument, especially the timbrel or tabret, which is about a -foot long, shaped like an hour-glass or a double “darabukkah,” and -provided with a head of iguana-skin. The effect of tom-toming is also -produced by striking hollow gourds and similar articles. The only cymbal -is the upatu, a flat-bottomed brass pot turned upside down, and tapped -with a bit of wood. The “sanje,” a gourd full of pebbles, is much -affected in parts of the country by women, children, and, especially, by -the mganga or rain-maker; its use being that of the babe’s rattle -amongst Europeans. - -The insipidity of the African’s day is relieved by frequent drinking -bouts, and by an occasional hunt. For the former the guests assemble at -early dawn, and take their seats in a circle, dividing into knots of -three or four to facilitate the circulation of the bowl. The mwandázi, -or cup-bearer, goes round the assembly, giving scrupulous precedence to -the chiefs and elders, who are also provided with larger vessels. The -sonzo, or drinking-cup, which also serves as a travelling canteen, is -made generally by the women, of a kind of grass called mávú, or of wild -palm-leaf: the split stalks are neatly twisted into a fine cord, which -is rolled up, beginning from the bottom, in concentric circles, each -joined to its neighbour by a binding of the same material: it is -sometimes stained and ornamented with red and black dyes. The shape when -finished is a truncated cone, somewhat like a Turk’s fez; it measures -about six inches in diameter by five in depth, and those of average size -may contain a quart. This cup passes around without delay or heel-taps, -and the topers stop occasionally to talk, laugh, and snuff, to chew -tobacco, and to smoke bhang. The scene of sensuality lasts for three or -four hours--in fact, till the pombe prepared for the occasion is -exhausted,--when the carousers, with red eyes, distorted features, and -the thickest of voices, stagger home to doze through the day. Perhaps in -no European country are so many drunken men seen abroad as in East -Africa. Women also frequently appear intoxicated; they have, however, -private “pombe,” and do not drink with the men. - -The East African, who can seldom afford to gratify his longing for meat -by slaughtering a cow or a goat, looks eagerly forward to the end of the -rains, when the grass is in a fit condition for firing; then, armed with -bows and arrows, and with rungu or knobkerries, the villagers have a -battue of small antelopes, hares, and birds. During the hot season also, -when the waters dry up, they watch by night at the tanks and pools, and -they thus secure the larger kinds of game. Elephants especially are -often found dead of drought during the hot season; they are driven from -the springs which are haunted by the hunters, and, according to the -Arabs, they fear migrating to new seats where they would be attacked by -the herds in possession. In many parts the huntsmen suspend by a cord -from the trees sharpened blocks of wood, which, loosened by the animal’s -foot, fall and cause a mortal wound. This “suspended spear,” sprung by a -latch, has been described by a host of South African travellers. It has -been sketched by Lieut. Boteler (“Narrative of a Voyage of Discovery to -Africa and Arabia,” chap. iv.); and Major Monteiro (“O Muata Cazembe,” -chap. v.); and described by Mr. Galton, Mr. Gordon Cumming, and Dr. -Livingstone (chap. xxviii.). Throughout Ugogo and upon the maritime -regions large game is caught in pitfalls, here called mtego, and in -India ogi: in some places travellers run the risk of falling into these -traps. The mtego is an oblong excavation like a great grave, but -decreasing in breadth below the surface of the ground and it is always -found single, not in pairs as in South Africa. The site generally chosen -is near water, and the hole is carefully masked with thin layers of -small sticks and leaves. The Indian “surrounds” and the hopo or V-shaped -trap of the Bakwens are here unknown. The distribution of treasure-trove -would seem to argue ancient partitions and lordships, and, in dividing -the spoils of wild or tame animals, the chief claims, according to -ancient right, the breast. This custom apparently borrowed by the -Hebrews from Africa (Leviticus, chap. vii. 30, 31), is alluded to by -almost all South-African travellers. - -The elephant roams in herds throughout the country, affecting the low -grounds where stagnating water produces a plentiful vegetation: with -every human being its foe, and thousands living by its destruction, the -animal is far from becoming scarce; indeed, the greatest number of -footprints appeared near Chogwe and Tongwe, stations of Baloch garrisons -close to the town of Pangani. The elephant hunt is with the African a -solemn and serious undertaking. He fortifies himself with periapts and -prophylactics given by the mganga, who also trains him to the use of his -weapon. The elephant-spear resembles our boarding-pike rather than the -light blunt arm employed in war; it is about six feet long, with a broad -tapering head cut away at the shoulders, and supported by an iron neck, -which is planted in a thick wooden handle, the junction being secured by -a cylinder of raw hide from a cow’s tail passed over it, and shrunk on -by drying: a specimen was deposited with the Royal Geographical Society. -The spear is invariably guarded by a mpigi or charm, the usual two bits -of wood bound together with a string or strip of skin. It is not a -little curious that the East African, though born and bred a hunter, is, -unlike almost all barbarians, as skill-less as an European in the art of -el asr, the “spoor” or “sign.” - -The hunting-party, consisting of fifteen to twenty individuals, proceeds -before departure to sing and dance, to drink and drum for a consecutive -week. The women form line and perambulate the village, each striking an -iron jembe or hoe with a large stone, which forms an appropriate -accompaniment to the howl and the vigelegele, “lullilooing,” or trills -of joy. At every step the dancer sways herself elephant-like from side -to side, and tosses her head backwards with a violence threatening -dislocation of the atlas. The line, led by a fugle-woman by the right, -who holds two jembe in one hand, but does not drum, stops facing every -Arab house where beads may be expected, and performs the most hideous -contortions, whirling the arms round the shoulder-socket, kneeling, and -imitating the actions of various animals. The labour done, the ladies -apply to their pombe, and reappear after four or five hours with a -tell-tale stagger and a looseness of limb which adds a peculiar charm to -their gesticulations. The day concludes with a “fackeltanz” of -remarkable grotesqueness. This merrymaking is probably intended as a -consolation for the penance which the elephant-hunter’s wife performs -during the absence of her mate; she is expected to abstain from good -food, handsome cloth, and fumigation: she must not leave the house, and -for an act of infidelity the blame of failure in the hunt will fall -heavily upon her. Meanwhile the men--at least as “far gone” as the -women--encircle with a running jumping gait, and with the grace and -science of well-trained bears, a drum or a kilindo,--the normal bark -bandbox,--placed with open mouth upon the ground, and violently beaten -with sticks and fists or rubbed and scraped with stones. It forms also a -sounding-board for a kinanda or bow-guitar, one end of which is applied -to it, whilst a shrill fife of goat’s horn gives finish and completeness -to the band. Around the drum are placed several elephants’ tails, -possibly designed to serve the purpose of the clay-corpse introduced -into the feasts of ancient Egypt. - -When thoroughly drenched with drink, the hunters set out early in the -morning, carrying live brands lest fire should fail them in the jungle, -and applying them to their mouths to keep out the cold air. These -trampers are sometimes dangerous to stragglers from caravans, especially -in countries where the robber or the murderer expects to escape with -impunity. In some places hunting-huts have been erected; they are, -however, seldom used when elephants are sought, as a herd once startled -does not readily return to the same pasture-grounds. The great art of -the African muinzi or elephant-hunter is to separate a tusker from the -herd without exciting suspicion, and to form a circle round the victim. -The mganga, then rising with a shout, hurls or thrusts the first spear, -and his example is followed by the rest. The weapons are not poisoned: -they are fatal by a succession of small wounds. The baited beast rarely -breaks, as might be expected, through the frail circle of assailants: -its proverbial obstinacy is excited; it charges one man, who slips away, -when another, with a scream, thrusts the long stiff spear into its hind -quarters, which makes it change intention and turn fiercely from the -fugitive to the fresh assailant. This continues till the elephant, -losing breath and heart, attempts to escape; its enemies then redouble -their efforts, and at length the huge prey, overpowered by pain and loss -of blood trickling from a hundred gashes, bites the dust. The victors, -after certain preliminaries of singing and dancing, carefully cut out -the tusks with small, sharp axes, and the rich marrow is at once picked -from the bamboo and devoured upon the spot, as the hare’s liver is in -Italy. The hunt concludes with a grand feast of fat and garbage, and the -hunters return home in triumph, laden with ivory, with ovals of hide for -shields, and with festoons of raw and odorous meat spitted upon long -poles. - -Throughout East Africa the mouse, as the saying is, travels with a -staff: the education of youth and the exercises of manhood are confined -to the practice of weapons. Yet the people want the expertness of the -Somal of the North and the Kafirs of the South; their internal feuds -perpetuate the necessity of offensive measures, and of the presence of -arms, but their agricultural state, rendering them independent of the -chase, prevents their reliance upon their skill for daily food. In -consequence of being ever armed, the African like the Asiatic is nothing -without his weapons; he cannot use his strength, and when he comes to -blows he fights like a woman. Thus the habitual show of arms is a mere -substitute for courage; in dangerous countries, as in Ugogo, the -Wanyamwezi do not dare to carry them for fear of provocation, whereas at -home and in comparative safety they never appear without spear or -knobstick. - -The weapons universally carried are the spear and the assegai. The bow -and arrow, the knobkerry, the dagger, and the battle-axe are confined to -certain tribes, whilst the musket and the sword are used beyond the -coast only by strangers. The shield is seldom seen. - -The lance of the European, Arab, and Indian is unknown to these -unequestrian races. The bravest tribes prefer the stabbing-spear, which -brings them to close quarters with the enemy. The weapon indeed cannot -make the man, but by reaction it greatly modifies his manliness. Thus -the use of short weapons generally denotes a gallant nation; the old -Roman gladius, the French briquet, and the Afghan charay would be -useless in the hands of a timid people. Under the impression that the -further men stand from their enemies the less is to be expected from -them, the French knights not inaptly termed the “villanous saltpetre” -the “grave of honour,” whilst their English rivals called the gun a -“hell-born murderer,” and an “instrument hateful in the sight of God and -man.” The Africans have also acted upon this idea. A great Kafir chief -did what Plutarch relates of Camillus: he broke short the assegais of -his “magnificent savages” when he sent them to war, and forbade each -warrior to return without having stained his stick with blood; the -consequence was, that, instead of “dumb-shooting” at a distance, they -rushed in and won. - -The mkuki, farárá, or spear, is more generally used for stabbing than -throwing. It has a long narrow blade of untempered iron, so soft that it -may be bent with the fingers; it is capable, however, of receiving a -fine edge. The shoulders are rounded off, and one or two lines extend -lengthways along the centre from socket to point. At the socket where -the shaft is introduced, it its covered with a bit of skin from the tail -of some animal drawn on like a stocking, and sometimes the iron is -forced on when heated, so as to adhere by contraction of the metal. The -shaft, which is five to six feet long, is a branch of the dark-brown -mkole or the light-yellow mtata-tree, chosen because close-grained, -tough, pliable, and free from knots; it is peeled, straightened in hot -ashes, pared down to the heart, smoothed with a knife, carefully oiled -or greased, without which it soon becomes brittle, and polished with the -leaves of the mkuba-tree. The wood is mostly ornamented with twists of -brass and copper wire; it is sometimes plated with zinc or tin, and it -is generally provided with an iron heel for planting in the ground. Some -tribes--the northern Wagogo and their neighbours the Wamasai for -instance--have huge spear-heads like shovels, unfit for throwing. The -best weapons for war are made in Karagwah. - -The kikuki, assegai, or javelin, is much used by the Warori and other -fighting tribes, who enter action with a sheaf of those weapons. -Nowhere, however, did the East African appear possessed of the dexterity -described by travellers amongst the southern races. The assegai -resembles the spear in all points, except that the head is often barbed, -and it is more lightly timbered; the shaft is rarely more than four feet -in length, and it tapers to the thinness of a man’s little finger. It is -laid upon the palm of the right hand, and balanced with a vibratory -motion till the point of equilibrium is found, when it is delivered with -little exertion of the muscles beyond the run or spring, and as it -leaves the hand it is directed by the forefinger and thumb. Sometimes, -to obviate breaking, the assegai is made like the Indian “sang,” wholly -of iron. - -The East African is a “good archère and a fayre.” The cubit-high Armiger -begins as soon as he can walk with miniature weapons, a cane bow and -reed bird-bolts tipped with wood, to practise till perfect at gourds and -pumpkins; he considers himself a man when he can boast of iron tips. -With many races “pudor est nescire sagittas.” The bravest, however, the -Wamasai and the Wakwafi, the Warori and the Watuta, ignore the practice; -with them-- - - “No proof of manhood, none - Of daring courage, is the bow;” - -and the Somali abandons it to his Midgan or servile. The bow in East -Africa is invariably what is called a “self-bow,” that is to say, made -of a single piece, and backed weapons are unknown. It is uncommonly -stiff, and the strongest archer would find it difficult to “draw up a -yard;” of this nature probably was the bow sent to Cambyses by the -Æthiopian monarch, with the taunting message that he had better not -attack men who could bend such weapons. When straight it may measure -five feet from tip to tip. It is made with the same care as the spear, -from a branch of the mumepweke or the mtata-tree, laboriously cut and -scraped so as to taper off towards the horns, and smeared with oil or -grease, otherwise it is easily sprung, and it is sometimes adorned with -plates of tin and zinc, with copper or brass wire and tips. The string -is made of hide, gut, the tendons of a bullock’s neck or hock, and -sometimes of tree-fibre; it is nearly double the bow in length, the -extra portion being whipped for strength as well as contingent use round -the upper horn. In shooting the bow is grasped with the left hand, but -the thumb is never extended along the back; the string is drawn with the -two bent forefingers, though sometimes the shaft is held after the -Asiatic fashion with the thumb and index. The bow is pulled with a jerk -as amongst the Somal, and not let fly as by Europeans with a long steady -loose. The best bows are made by the tribes near the Rufiji River. - -The arrow is about two feet in length; the stele or shaft is made of -some light wood, and often of reed. Its fault is want of weight: to -inflict damage upon an antelope it must not be used beyond point-blank, -fifteen to twenty paces; and a score will be shot into a bullock before -it falls. The musketeer, despising the arrow at a distance, fears it at -close quarters, knowing that for his one shot the archer can discharge a -dozen. From the days of Franklin to the era of Silistria, Citate, and -Kars, fancy-tacticians have advocated the substitution of the bow or the -addition of it to the “queen of weapons,” the musket. Their reasons for -a revival of the obsolete arm are its lightness, its rapidity of -discharge, and its silent action. They forget, however, the saying of -Xenophon, that it is impiety in a man who has not learned archery from -his childhood to ask such boon of the easy gods. - -The East Africans ignore the use of red-hot arrows; and the poisoned -shaft, an unmanly weapon, unused by the English and French archers even -in their deadliest wars, is confined to the Wanyika of Mombasah, the -Wazaramo, the Wak’hutu, the Western Wasagara, and the people of Uruwwa. -The Wazaramo and Wak’hutu call the plant from which the poison is -extracted Mkandekande. They sold at somewhat an exorbitant price a leaf -full of the preparation, but avoided pointing out to the expedition the -plant, which from their description appears to be a variety of -euphorbia. M. Werne (“Sources of the White Nile,” chap. viii.) says that -the river tribe prepare their arrow-poison from a kind of asclepias, -whose milky sap is pressed out between two stones and allowed to -thicken. Dr. Livingstone (chap. viii.) mentions the use of the n’gwa -caterpillar amongst the Bushmen, who also poison waters with the -Euphorbia arborescens; and Mr. Andersson (chap. vii.) specifies the -Euphorbia candelabrum amongst the Ovaherero and the Hill Damaras. In -East Africa the poison-leaves are allowed to distil their juices into a -pot, which for inspissation is placed over a slow fire; becoming thick -and slab, the contents are applied with a stick to the arrow, and are -smoothed between the hands. When finished, the part behind the barb is -covered with a shiny brown-black coat, not unlike pitch, to the extent -of four or five inches. After drying it is renewed by the application of -a fresh layer, the old being removed by exposure to the fire. The people -fear this poison greatly; they wash their hands after touching it, and -declare that a wounded man or beast loses sense, “moons about,” and -comes to the ground before running a quarter of a mile. Much -exaggeration, however, must be expected upon the subject of toxicology -amongst barbarians: it acts like the Somali arrow-poison, as a strong -narcotic, and is, probably, rarely fatal, even when freshly applied. - -Fearing the action of the wind upon such light shafts if unfledged, the -archer inserts into the cloven end three or four feathers, the -cockfeather being as in Europe perpendicular when the arrow is nocked. -The pile or iron head is curiously and cruelly barbed with long waving -tails; the neck is toothed and edged by dinting the iron when hot with -an axe, and it is sometimes half-sawed that it may break before -extraction. The East Africans also have forkers or two-headed shafts, -and bird-bolts or blunt arrows tipped with some hard wood, used when the -weapon is likely to be lost. Before loosing an arrow the archer throws -into the air a pinch of dust, not to find out the wind, but for good -luck, like the Tartars of Tibet before discharging their guns. In battle -the heavy-armed man holds his spear and a sheaf of spare arrows in the -bow-hand, whilst a quiver slung to the left side contains reserve -missiles, and a little axe stuck in the right side of the girdle is -ready when the rest fail. The ronga or quiver is a bark-case, neatly cut -and stained. It is of two forms, full-length, and provided with a cover -for poisoned, and half-length for unpoisoned, arrows. - -The rungu or knobkerry is the African club or mace; it extends from the -Cape to the negroid and the Somal tribes north of the equator. The shape -varies in almost every district: the head is long or round, oval or -irregular, and sometimes provided on one side with an edge; it is cut -out of the hardest wood, and generally from one piece. In some cases the -knob is added to the handle, and in others it is supplied with a -spear-head. The handle is generally two feet long, and it is cut thin -enough to make the weapon top-heavy. The Mnyamwezi is rarely seen abroad -without this weapon; he uses it in the chase, and in battle against the -archer: he seems to trust it in close quarters rather than the -feather-weight arrow or the spear that bends like gutta-percha, and most -murders are committed with it. The East people do not, like the Kafirs, -use the handle of the knobkerry as a dibble. - -The sime or dudgeon is the makeshift for the Arab jambiyah and the -Persian khanjar. The form of this weapon differs in almost every tribe. -The Wahumba or Wamasai use blades about four feet long by two fingers in -breadth; the long, round, and guardless hilt is ribbed for security of -grasp, and covered with leather; their iron is of excellent quality, and -the shape of the weapon has given rise to the report that “they make -swords on the model of those of the Knights Templars.” The Wazegura and -the Wagogo use knives not unlike the poniard of the Somal. In some -tribes it is 3·5 feet long, with a leathern sheath extending half-way up -the blade. Generally it is about half that size, straight, pointed, and -double-edged, or jagged with teeth. The regions about the Lake -manufacture and export great numbers of these weapons varying from a -finger’s length to full dimensions. - -The shoka or battle-axe is much used by the tribes around the -Tanganyika. It has a blade of triangular shape, somewhat longer and -thinner than that used as a working tool, which is passed through the -bulging head of a short handle cut out of the bauhinia or some other -hard tree. Amongst the Wasagara the peculiar mundu or bill often serves -for the same purpose. - -The targes of the Wasagara and the Wanyamwezi have already been -described; the Wavinza make a shield of basket-work six feet by two, and -much resembling that of the southern Kafirs, and the Wa’ungu carry -large pavoises of bull’s hide. It is probable that the exceeding -humidity of the climate, so ruinous to leather, prevents the general -adoption of the shield; on the march it is merely an encumbrance, and -the warrior must carry it on his head beyond the reach of the dewy -grass. - -The maritime races, the Wazegura, and others opposite the island of -Zanzibar, have imprudently been allowed to purchase fire-arms, which -they employ in obstructing caravans and in kidnapping-commandos against -their weaker neighbours. A single German house has, it is said, sold off -13,000 Tower muskets in one year. The arms now preferred are those -exported by Hamburg and America; they fetch 4 dollars each; the French -single-barrel is somewhat cheaper, averaging 3 dollars 50 cents. In the -interior fire-arms are still fortunately rare--the Arabs are too wise to -arm the barbarians against themselves. In Unyamwezi an old gun is a -present for a chief, and the most powerful rulers seldom can boast of -more than three. Gunpowder is imported from Zanzibar in kegs of 10 and -25 lbs., bearing the American mark; it is of the description used in -blasting, and fouls the piece after a few discharges. The price varies -at Zanzibar from 3 dollars 50 cents to 7 dollars, and upon the coast -from 5 to 10 dollars per small keg; in Unyamwezi ammunition is exchanged -for ivory and slaves, and some Arab merchants keep as many as thirty -kegs in the house, which they retail to factors and traders at the rate -of 1 to 2 shukkahs per lb. - -Swords in East Africa are used only by strangers. The Wasawahili and the -slave-factors prefer the kittareh, a curved sabre made in Oman and -Hazramaut, or, in its stead, an old German cavalry-blade. The Arabs -carry as a distinction the “faranji,” a straight, thin, double-edged, -guardless, and two-handed sword, about four feet long, and sharp as a -carving-knife; the price varies from 10 to 100 dollars. - -The negroid is an unmechanical race; his industry has scarcely passed -the limits of savage invention. Though cotton abounds in the interior, -the Wanyamwezi only have attempted a rude loom; and the working of iron -and copper is confined to the Wafyoma and the Lakist races. The gourd is -still the principal succedaneum for pottery. The other branches of -industry which are necessary to all barbarians are mats and baskets, -ropes and cords. - -Carpentering amongst the East Africans is still in its rudest stage; no -Dædalus has yet taught them to jag their knives into saws. It is limited -to making the cots and cartels upon which the people invariably sleep, -and to carving canoes, mortars, bowls, rude platters, spoons, stools, -and similar articles of furniture. The tree, after being rung and barked -to dry the juices, is felled by fire or the axe; it is then cut up into -lengths of the required dimensions, and hacked into shape with slow and -painful toil. The tools are a shoka, or hatchet of puerile dimensions, -perhaps one-fifth the size of our broad axes, yet the people can use it -to better advantage than the admirable implement of the backwoodsman. -The mbizo or adze is also known in the interior, but none except the -Fundi and the slaves trained upon the coast have ever seen a hand-saw, a -centre-bit, or a chisel. - -Previous to weaving, cotton is picked and cleaned with the hand; it is -then spun into a coarse thread. Like the Paharis of India, the East -Africans ignore the distaff; they twist the material round the left -wrist. The mlavi, or spindle, is of two forms; one is a short stick, -inserted in a hole practised through a lump of lead or burnt clay, like -the Indian bhaunri; the other is a thin bit of wood, about 1·5 ft. long, -with a crescent of the same material on the top, and an iron hook to -hold the thread. The utanda, or loom-frame differs from the -vertical-shaped article of West Africa. Two side-poles about twelve feet -long, and supported at the corners by four uprights, are placed at an -angle, enabling the workman to stand to his work; and the oblong is -completed by two cross-bars, round which the double line of the warp, or -longitudinal threads of the woven tissue, are secured. The dimensions of -the web vary from five to six feet in length, by two to three broad. The -weft, or transverse thread, is shot with two or three thin laths, or -spindles, round which the white and coloured yarns are wound, through -the doubled warp, which is kept apart by another lath passing between -the two layers, and the spindle is caught with the left hand as it -appears at the left side. Lastly, a lath, broader and flatter than the -others, is used to close the work, and to beat the thread home. As the -workman deems three hours per diem ample labour, a cloth will rarely be -finished under a week. Taste is shown in the choice of patterns: they -are sometimes checks with squares, alternately black and white, or in -stripes of black variegated with red dyes upon a white ground: the lines -are generally broad in the centre, but narrow along the edges, and the -texture not a little resembles our sacking. The dark colour is obtained -from the juice of the mzima-tree; it stains the yarn to a dull brown, -which becomes a dark mulberry, or an Indian-ink black, when buried for -two or three days in the vegetable mud of the ponds and pools. The -madder-red is produced by boiling the root and bark of a bush called -mda’a; an ochreish tint is also extracted from the crimson matter that -stains the cane and the leaves of red holcus. All cloths have the tambua -or fringe indispensable in East Africa. Both weaving and dyeing are -men’s not women’s work in these lands. - -The cloth is a poor article: like the people of Ashanti, who from time -immemorial have woven their own cottons, the East African ever prefers -foreign fabrics. The loose texture of his own produce admits wind and -rain; when dry it is rough and unpleasant, when wet heavy, comfortless -as leather, and it cannot look clean, as it is never bleached. According -to the Arabs, the yarn is often dipped into a starch made from grain, -for the purpose of thickening the appearance of the texture: this -disappears after the first washing, and the cloth must be pegged down to -prevent its shrinking to half-size. The relative proportion of warp and -weft is unknown, and the woolly fuzzy quality of the half-wild cotton -now in use impoverishes the fabric. Despite the labour expended upon -these cloths, the largest size may be purchased for six feet of American -domestics, or for a pair of iron hoes: there is therefore little -inducement to extend the manufacture. - -Iron is picked up in the state called Utundwe, or gangue, from the sides -of low sandstone hills: in places the people dig pits from two to four -feet deep, and, according to the Arabs, they find tears, nodules, and -rounded lumps. The pisolithic iron, common in the maritime regions, is -not worked. The mhesi or blacksmith’s art is still in its infancy. The -iron-stone is carried to the smithy, an open shed, where the work is -done: the smelting-furnace is a hole in the ground, filled with lighted -charcoal, upon which the utundwe is placed, and, covered with another -layer of fire, it is allowed to run through the fuel. The blast is -produced by mafukutu (bellows): they are two roughly rounded troughs, -about three inches deep by six in diameter, hewn out of a single bit of -wood and prolonged into a pair of parallel branches, pierced for the -passage of the wind through two apertures in the walls of the troughs. -The troughs are covered with skin, to which are fixed two long -projecting sticks for handles, which may be worked by a man sitting. A -stone is placed upon the bellows for steadiness, and clay nozzles, or -holcus-canes with a lateral hole, are fixed on to the branches to -prevent them from charring. Sometimes as many as five pairs are worked -at once, and great is the rapidity required to secure a continuous -outdraught. Mr. Andersson (“Lake Ngami,” chap. xvi.) gives a sketch of a -similar contrivance amongst the South Africans: the clay-tubes, however, -are somewhat larger than those used in Unyamwezi by “blacksmiths at -work.” The ore is melted and remelted several times, till pure; -tempering and case-hardening are unknown, and it is stored for use by -being cast in clay-moulds, or made up into hoes. The hammer and anvil -are generally smooth stones. The principal articles of ironmongery are -spears, assegais, and arrow-heads, battle-axes, hatchets, and adzes, -knives and daggers, sickles and razors, rings and sambo, or wire -circlets. The kinda is a large bell, hung by the ivory-porter to his -tusk on the line of the march: the kengere or kiugi a smaller variety -which he fastens to his legs. Pipes, with iron bowls and stems, are made -by the more ingenious, and the smoker manufactures for himself small -pincers or pliers which, curious to say, are unknown even by name to the -more civilised people of Zanzibar. - -Copper is not found upon this line in East Africa. From the country of -the Kazembe, however, an excellent red and heavy, soft and bright -variety, not unlike that of Japan, finds its way to Ujiji, and sometimes -to the coast. It is sold in bars from one to two feet long. At Ujiji, -where it is cheap, four to five pounds are procurable for two doti, -there worth about four dollars. Native copper, therefore, is almost as -expensive as that imported from Europe. It is used in making the rude -and clumsy bangles affected by both sexes, sambo, and ornaments for the -spear and bow, the staff and the knobkerry. - -[Illustration: Gourds.] - -The art of ceramics has made but little progress in East Africa; no -Anacharsis has yet arisen to teach her sons the use of the wheel. The -figuline, a greyish-brown clay, is procured from river-beds, or is dug -up in the country; it is subjected to the preliminary operations of -pounding, rubbing dry upon a stone, pulverising, and purifying from -stones and pebbles. It is then worked into a thick mass, with water, and -the potter fashions it with the hand, first shaping the mouth; he adds -an inch to it when dry, hardens it in the sun, makes another addition, -and thus proceeds till it is finished. Lines and other ornaments having -been traced, the pots are baked in piles of seven or eight, by burning -grass--wood-fire would crack them--consequently the material always -remains half-raw. Usually the colour becomes lamp-black; in Usagara, -however, the potter’s clay burns red, like the soil--the effect of iron. -A cunning workman will make in a day four of these pots, some of them -containing several gallons, and their perfect regularity of form, and -often their picturesqueness of shape, surprise the stranger. The best -are made in Ujiji, Karagwah, and Ugunda: those of Unyamwezi are -inferior, and the clay of Zanzibar is of all the worst. - -There are many kinds of pots which not a little resemble the glazed jars -of ancient Egypt. The ukango, which acts as vat in fermenting liquor, is -of the greatest dimensions. The mtungi is a large water-vessel with a -short and narrow neck, and rounded at the bottom so as to be -conveniently carried on the head. The chungu, or cooking-pot, has a wide -and open mouth; it is of several varieties, large and small. The mkungu -is a shallow bowl, precisely like those made at the tomb of Moses, and -now familiar to Europe. At Ujiji and on the Lake they also manufacture -smaller vessels, with and without spouts. - -In a country where pottery is scarce and dear, the buyu or Cucurbita -lagenaria supplies every utensil except those used for cooking; its many -and various adaptations render it a valuable production. The people -train it to grow in the most fantastic shapes, and ornament it by -tatooing with dark paint, and by patterns worked in brass tacks and -wires; where it splits, it is artistically sewn together. The larger -kinds serve as well-buckets, water-pots, travelling-canteens, churns, -and the sounding-boards of musical instruments: a hookah, or water-pipe, -is made by distorting the neck, and the smaller varieties are converted -into snuff-boxes, medicine-cases, and unguent-pots. The fruit of the -calabash-tree is also called buyu: split and dried it is used as ladles, -but it is too small to answer all the purposes of the gourd. - -The East Africans excel in the manufacture of mtemba or -bori--pipe-heads. These are of two kinds. One is made from a soft stone, -probably steatite, found in Usonga, near Utumbara, and on the road to -Karagwah: it is, however, rare, and about ten times the price of the -clay bowls, because less liable to break. The other is made of a plastic -or pipe-clay, too brittle to serve for pots, and it invariably cracks at -the shank, unless bound with wire. Both are hand-made, and are burned in -the same rough way as the pottery. At Msene, where the clay pipe is -cheapest, the price of the bowl is a khete, or double string of white or -blue beads. The pipe of Unyamwezi is of graceful shape, a cone with the -apex downwards; this leaves but little of the hot, oily, and -high-smelling tobacco at the bottom, whereas in Europe the contrary -seems to be the rule. In Ujiji the bowl is small, rounded, and shallow; -it is, moreover, very brittle. The most artful “mtemba” is made by the -people of Uvira: black inside, like other pottery, its exterior is -coloured a greyish-white, and is adorned with red by means of the Indian -geru (Colcothar or Crocus Martis). Bhang is always, and tobacco is -sometimes, smoked in a water-pipe: the bowl is of huge size, capable of -containing at least half a pound, and its upper half is made to incline -towards the smoker’s face. The Lakist tribes have a graceful variety, -like the Indian “chillam,” very different from the awkward, unwieldy, -and distorted article now fashionable in Unyamwezi and the Eastern -countries. The usual pipe-stem is a tube of about 1·5 feet long, -generally a hollow twig of the dwarf melewele-tree. As it is rudely -bored with hot wire, it must be made air-tight by wax and a coating of -brass or copper wire; a strap of hairy skin prevents the pipe-shank -parting from the stick. Iron and brass tubes are rare and highly prized; -the fortunate possessor will sometimes ask for a single specimen two -shukkahs. - -Basket-making and mat-weaving are favourite occupations in East Africa -for both sexes and all ages; even the Arabs may frequently be seen -absorbed in an employment which in Oman would be considered derogatory -to manliness. The sengo, or common basket, from the coast to the Lake, -is an open, shallow, and pan-shaped article, generally made of mwanzi, -or bamboo-bark, reddened in parts and stained black in others by the -root of the Mkuruti and other trees, and white where the outer coat has -been removed from the bamboo. The body, which resembles a popular -article in ancient Egypt, is neatly plaited, and the upper ends are -secured to a stout hoop of the same material. The kanda (in the plural -makanda) acts in the interior as matting for rooms, and is converted -into bags for covering bales of cloth, beads, and similar articles. It -is made from the myara (myala) or Chamærops humilis; the leaf is peeled, -sun-dried, and split with a bit of iron into five or six lengths, joined -at the base, which is trimmed for plaiting. The Karagwah, the only mat -made in the interior of Africa, is used as bedding and carpeting; on -journeys the porters bivouac under it; it swells with the wet, and soon -becomes impervious to rain or heavy dew. It is of two kinds: one of -rushes growing in the vicinity of water, the other of grass rolled up -into little bundles. A complicated stitch runs along the whole length in -double lines. The best description of mat is called mkeke. It is made -at Zanzibar and the coast, from the young fronds of the ukhindu or brab, -neatly stained with various dyes. Women of family pride themselves upon -their skill in making the mkeke, which still attains a price of four -dollars. Amongst the maritime races none but the chiefs have a right to -sit upon it; there are no such distinctions in the interior, where these -mats are carried for sale by the slaves. From the brab also are made -neat strainers to purify honey, pombe, and similar articles. They are -open-mouthed cylinders, from one to two feet long, and varying in -diameter from three to six inches. The bottom is narrowed by whipping -fibre round the loose ends of the leaves. The fishing-nets have been -described when treating of the Tanganyika. The luávo, or hand-net, is -made of calabash or other fibre, with coarse wide meshes; it is affixed -to two sticks firmly planted in the ground, and small animals are driven -into it by beaters. - -The basts or barks and fibrous substances in East Africa are cheap and -abundant, but labour and conveyance being difficult and expensive, they -would require to be shipped from Zanzibar in the condition of -half-stuff. The best and most easily divisible into pliant and -knot-tying fibres are, upon the coast the pineapple, and in the interior -the plantain. The next in value are the integuments of the calabash and -the myombo tree. These fibres would produce a good article were it not -for the artlessness of African manipulation. The bark is pounded or -chewed, and, in lieu of spinning, is twisted between the hands; the -largest ropes are made in half an hour, and break after a few minutes of -hard work. A fine silky twine, used for fishing, is made from the -aloetic plants called by the Wasawahili mkonge, and by the Arabs bag, -masad and kideh: it is the hig or haskul of Somaliland, where it affects -the poorest ground, cannot be burnt down, and is impassable to naked -legs and cattle. The leaves are stripped of their coats, and the ends -being tightly bound between two pieces of wood, the mass of fibre is -drawn out like a sword from its sheath. Fatilah, or matchlock matches, -are made in Zanzibar of cotton, and in the interior of calabash fibre. - -As might be expected among a sparse population leading a comparatively -simple life, the vast variety of diseases which afflict more civilised -races, who are collected in narrow spaces, are unknown in East Africa -even by name. Its principal sporadic is fever, remittent and -intermittent, with its multitudinous secondaries, concerning which -notices have been scattered through the preceding pages. The most -dangerous epidemic is its aborigen, the small-pox, which, propagated -without contact or fomites, sweeps at times like a storm of death over -the land. For years it has not left the Arab colony at Kazeh, and, -shortly before the arrival of the Expedition, in a single month 52 -slaves died out of a total of 800. The ravages of this disease amongst -the half-starved and over-worked gangs of caravan porters have already -been described; as many as a score of these wretches have been seen at a -time in a single caravan; men staggering along blinded and almost -insensible, jostling and stumbling against every one in their way; and -mothers carrying babes, both parent and progeny in the virulent stage of -the fell disease. The Arabs have partially introduced the practice of -inoculating, anciently known in South Africa; the pus is introduced into -an incision in the forehead between the eyebrows. The people have no -remedy for small-pox: they trust entirely to the vis medicatrix. There -is a milder form of the malady, called shúrúá, resembling the -chicken-pox of Europe; it is cured by bathing in cold water and smearing -the body with ochreish earth. The Arab merchants of Unyanyembe declare -that, when they first visited Karagwah, the people were decimated by the -táún, or plague. They describe correctly the bubo under the axillæ, the -torturing thirst, and the rapid fatality of the disease. In the early -part of 1859 a violent attack of cholera, which extended from Maskat -along the eastern coast of Arabia and Africa, committed terrible ravages -in the island of Zanzibar and throughout the maritime regions. Of -course, no precautions of quarantine or cordon militaire were taken, yet -the contagion did not extend into the interior. - -Strangers in East Africa suffer from dysenteries and similar disorders -consequent upon fever; and, as in Egypt, few are free from hæmorrhoids, -which in Unyamwezi are accompanied by severe colics and umbilical pains. -Rheumatism and rheumatic fever, severe catarrhs and influenzas, are -caused by the cold winds, and, when crossing the higher altitudes, -pneumonia and pleurisis abound in the caravan. On the coast many -settlers, Indian and Arab, show upon the skin whitish leprous spots, -which are treated with various unguents. In the interior, though well -provided with fresh meat and vegetables, travellers are attacked by -scurvy, even in the absence of its normal exciting causes, damp, cold, -and poor diet. This phenomenon has often been observed upon the upper -course of the Nile; Europeans have been prostrated by it even in the dry -regions westward of the Red Sea, and the Portuguese officers who -explored Usenda of the Kazembe suffered tortures from the complaint. - -Common diseases among the natives are umbilical hernia and prolapsus: -the latter is treated by the application of powdered bhang, dry or mixed -with ghee. They are subject to kihindu-hindu--in Arabic, sara--the -epilepsy, which they pretend to cure by the marrow of rhinoceros’ shank. -Of the many fits and convulsions which affect them, the kichyoma-chyoma -is the most dreaded. The word, which means the “little irons,” describes -the painful sensations, the cramps and stitches, the spasms and -lancinations, which torment the sufferer. Many die of this disease. It -is not extraordinary that the fits, convulsions, and contortions which -it suddenly induces should lead the people to consider it in the light -of possession, and the magician to treat it with charms. Madness and -idiocy are not uncommon: of the patient it is said, “Ana wazimo”--“he -has fiends.” In most parts the people, after middle age, are tender-eyed -from the effects of smoke within, glare without, exposure and -debauchery. Not a few samples of acute ophthalmic disease were seen. - -In the lower and more malarious spots, desquamations, tumours, and skin -diseases are caused by suddenly suppressed perspiration. The terrible -kidonda or helcoma of the maritime regions and the prurigo of Ujiji have -already been alluded to. The “chokea” is a hordeolum or large boil, -generally upon the upper eyelid. The “funza” is supposed to result from -the bite of a large variety of fly. It begins with a small red and fiery -swelling, which bursts after a time and produces a white entozoon about -half an inch in length. “Kumri” are common blains, and “p’hambazi” -malignant blind-boils, which leave a deep discoloured scar; when the -parts affected are distant from the seat of circulation, the use of the -limb is sometimes lost. For most of these sores tutiya or murtutu, -blue-stone, is considered a specific. - -As might be expected amongst an ignorant and debauched race coming in -direct contact with semi-civilisation, the lues has found its way from -the island of Zanzibar to Ujiji and into the heart of Africa. It is -universally believed both by the natives and by the Arabs, who support -the assertion with a host of proofs, to be propagated without contact. -Such, indeed, is the general opinion of the Eastern world, where perhaps -its greater virulence may assimilate it to the type of the earlier -attacks in Europe. The disease, however, dies out, and has not taken -root in the people as amongst the devoted races of North America and the -South Sea islands. Although a malignant form was found extending -throughout the country, mutilation of the features and similar -secondaries were not observed beyond the maritime region. Except -blue-stone, mineral drugs are unknown, and the use of mercury and -ptyalism have not yet exasperated the evil. The minor form of lues is -little feared and yields readily to simples; the consequences, however, -are strangury, cystitis, chronic nephritic disease, and rheumatism. - -“Polypharmacy” is not the fault of the profession in East Africa, and -the universal belief in possession tends greatly to simplify the -methodus modendi. The usual cathartic is the bark of a tree called -kalákalá, which is boiled in porridge. There is a great variety of -emetics, some so violent that several Arabs who have been bold enough to -swallow them, barely escaped with life. The actual cautery--usually a -favourite counter-irritant amongst barbarous people--is rarely practised -in East Africa; in its stead powder of blue-stone is applied to the sore -or wound, which has been carefully scraped, and the patient howls with -pain for twenty-four hours. They bleed frequently as Italians, who even -after being startled resort to a mild phlebotomy, and they cut down -straight upon the vein with a sharp knife. They prefer the cucurbitula -cruenta, like the Arabs, who say,-- - - “Few that cup repent; - Few that bleed, rejoice.” - -A favourite place is the crown of the head. The practitioner, after -scarifying the skin with a razor or a dagger, produces a vacuum by -exhausting the air through a horn applied with wetted edges; at the -point is a bit of wax, which he closes over the aperture with his tongue -or teeth, as the hospital “singhi” in India uses a bit of leather. -Cupping--called ku hu míká or kumíká--is made highly profitable by -showing strange appearances in the blood. They cure by excision the bite -of snakes, which, however, are not feared nor often fatal in these -lands. They cannot reduce dislocations, and they never attempt to set or -splint a broken bone. - -The mganga or medicine-man, in his character of “doctor,” is a personage -of importance. He enters the sick-room in the dignity of antelope-horn, -grease, and shell-necklace, and he sits with importance upon his -three-legged stool. As the devil saves him the trouble of diagnosis, he -begins by a prescription, invariably ordering something edible for the -purpose, and varying it, according to the patient’s means, from a -measure of grain to a bullock. He asserts, for instance, that a pound of -fat is required for medicine; a goat must be killed, and his perquisite -is the head or breast--a preliminary to a more important fee. Then the -price of prescription--a _sine quâ non_ to prescribing--is settled upon -and paid in advance. After certain questions, invariably suggesting the -presence of poison, the medical practitioner proceeds to the cure; this -is generally a charm or periapt bound round the part affected. In common -diseases, however, like fever, the mganga will condescend to such -profane processes as adhibiting sternutatories and rubbing the head with -vegetable powders. If the remedies prove too powerful or powerless, he -at once decamps; under normal circumstances he incapacitates himself for -performing his promise of calling the next day by expending his fee in -liquor. The Africans have in one point progressed beyond Europeans: -there are as many women physicians as men. - -[Illustration: A Mnyamwezi. - -A Mheha.] - - - - -CHAP. XIX. - -THE CHARACTER AND RELIGION OF THE EAST AFRICANS; THEIR GOVERNMENT, AND -SLAVERY. - - -The study of psychology in Eastern Africa is the study of man’s -rudimental mind, when, subject to the agency of material nature, he -neither progresses nor retrogrades. He would appear rather a degeneracy -from the civilised man than a savage rising to the first step, were it -not for his apparent incapacity for improvement. He has not the ring of -the true metal; there is no rich nature, as in the New Zealander, for -education to cultivate. He seems to belong to one of those childish -races which, never rising to man’s estate, fall like worn-out links from -the great chain of animated nature. He unites the incapacity of infancy -with the unpliancy of age; the futility of childhood, and the credulity -of youth, with the scepticism of the adult and the stubbornness and -bigotry of the old. He has “beaten lands” and seas. For centuries he has -been in direct intercourse with the more advanced people of the eastern -coast, and though few have seen an European, there are not many who have -not cast eyes upon an Arab. Still he has stopped short at the threshold -of progress; he shows no signs of development; no higher and more varied -orders of intellect are called into being. Even the simple truths of El -Islam have failed to fix the thoughts of men who can think, but who, -absorbed in providing for their bodily wants, hate the trouble of -thinking. His mind, limited to the objects seen, heard, and felt, will -not, and apparently cannot, escape from the circle of sense, nor will it -occupy itself with aught but the present. Thus he is cut off from the -pleasures of memory, and the world of fancy is altogether unknown to -him. Perhaps the automaton which we call spiritual suffers from the -inferiority of the mechanism by which it acts. - -The East African is, like other barbarians, a strange mixture of good -and evil: by the nature of barbarous society, however, the good element -has not, whilst the evil has, been carefully cultured. - -As a rule, the civilised or highest type of man owns the sway of -intellect, of reason; the semi-civilised--as are still the great nations -of the East--are guided by sentiment and propensity in a degree -incomprehensible to more advanced races; and the barbarian is the slave -of impulse, passion, and instinct, faintly modified by sentiment, but -ignorant of intellectual discipline. He appears, therefore, to the -civilised man a paralogic being,--a mere mass of contradictions; his -ways are not our ways, his reason is not our reason. He deduces effects -from causes which we ignore; he compasses his ends by contrivances -which we cannot comprehend; and his artifices and polity excite, by -their shallowness and “inconsequence,” our surprise and contempt. Like -that Hindu race that has puzzled the plain-witted Englishman for the -century closing with the massacres of Delhi and Cawnpore, he is -calculated to perplex those who make conscience an instinct which -elevates man to the highest ground of human intelligence. He is at once -very good-tempered and hard-hearted, combative and cautious; kind at one -moment, cruel, pitiless, and violent at another; sociable and -unaffectionate; superstitious and grossly irreverent; brave and -cowardly, servile and oppressive; obstinate, yet fickle and fond of -changes; with points of honour, but without a trace of honesty in word -or deed; a lover of life, though addicted to suicide; covetous and -parsimonious, yet thoughtless and improvident; somewhat conscious of -inferiority, withal unimprovable. In fact, he appears an embryo of the -two superior races. He is inferior to the active-minded and objective, -the analytic and perceptive European, and to the ideal and subjective, -the synthetic and reflective Asiatic. He partakes largely of the worst -characteristics of the lower Oriental types--stagnation of mind, -indolence of body, moral deficiency, superstition, and childish passion; -hence the Egyptians aptly termed the Berbers and negroes the “perverse -race of Kush.” - -The main characteristic of this people is the selfishness which the -civilised man strives to conceal, because publishing it would obstruct -its gratification. The barbarian, on the other hand, displays his -inordinate egotism openly and recklessly; his every action discloses -those unworthy traits which in more polished races chiefly appear on -public occasions, when each man thinks solely of self-gratification. -Gratitude with him is not even a sense of prospective favours; he looks -upon a benefit as the weakness of his benefactor and his own strength; -consequently, he will not recognise even the hand that feeds him. He -will, perhaps, lament for a night the death of a parent or a child, but -the morrow will find him thoroughly comforted. The name of hospitality, -except for interested motives, is unknown to him: “What will you give -me?” is his first question. To a stranger entering a village the worst -hut is assigned, and, if he complain, the answer is that he can find -encamping ground outside. Instead of treating him like a guest, which -the Arab Bedouin would hold to be a point of pride, of honour, his host -compels him to pay and prepay every article, otherwise he might starve -in the midst of plenty. Nothing, in fact, renders the stranger’s life -safe in this land, except the timid shrinking of the natives from the -“hot-mouthed weapon” and the necessity of trade, which induces the -chiefs to restrain the atrocities of their subjects. To travellers the -African is, of course, less civil than to merchants, from whom he -expects to gain something. He will refuse a mouthful of water out of his -abundance to a man dying of thirst; utterly unsympathising, he will not -stretch out a hand to save another’s goods, though worth thousands of -dollars. Of his own property, if a ragged cloth or a lame slave be lost, -his violent excitement is ridiculous to behold. His egotism renders him -parsimonious even in self-gratification; the wretched curs, which he -loves as much as his children, seldom receive a mouthful of food, and -the sight of an Arab’s ass feeding on grain elicits a prolonged “Hi! -hi!” of extreme surprise. He is exceedingly improvident, taking no -thought for the morrow--not from faith, but rather from carelessness as -to what may betide him; yet so greedy of gain is he that he will refuse -information about a country or the direction of a path without a present -of beads. He also invariably demands prepayment: no one keeps a promise -or adheres to an agreement, and, if credit be demanded for an hour, his -answer would be, “There is nothing in my hand.” Yet even greed of gain -cannot overcome the levity and laxity of his mind. Despite his best -interests, he will indulge the mania for desertion caused by that -mischievous love of change and whimsical desire for novelty that -characterise the European sailor. Nor can even lucre prevail against the -ingrained indolence of the race--an indolence the more hopeless as it is -the growth of the climate. In these temperate and abundant lands Nature -has cursed mankind with the abundance of her gifts; his wants still -await creation, and he is contented with such necessaries as roots and -herbs, game, and a few handfuls of grain--consequently improvement has -no hold upon him. - -In this stage of society truth is no virtue. The “mixture of a lie” may -“add to pleasure” amongst Europeans; in Africa it enters where neither -pleasure nor profit can arise from the deception. If a Mnyamwezi guide -informs the traveller that the stage is short, he may make up his mind -for a long and weary march, and _vice versâ_. Of course, falsehood is -used as a defence by the weak and oppressed; but beyond that, the -African desires to be lied to, and one of his proverbs is, “’Tis better -to be deceived than to be undeceived.” The European thus qualifies the -assertion, - - “For sure the pleasure is as great - In being cheated as to cheat.” - -Like the generality of barbarous races, the East Africans are wilful, -headstrong, and undisciplinable: in point of stubbornness and -restiveness they resemble the lower animals. If they cannot obtain the -very article of barter upon which they have set their mind, they will -carry home things useless to them; any attempt at bargaining is settled -by the seller turning his back, and they ask according to their wants -and wishes, without regard to the value of goods. Grumbling and -dissatisfied, they never do business without a grievance. Revenge is a -ruling passion, as the many rancorous fratricidal wars that have -prevailed between kindred clans, even for a generation, prove. -Retaliation and vengeance are, in fact, their great agents of moral -control. Judged by the test of death, the East African is a hardhearted -man, who seems to ignore all the charities of father, son, and brother. -A tear is rarely shed, except by the women, for departed parent, -relative, or friend, and the voice of the mourner is seldom heard in -their abodes. It is most painful to witness the complete inhumanity with -which a porter seized with small-pox is allowed by his friends, -comrades, and brethren to fall behind in the jungle, with several days’ -life in him. No inducement--even beads--can persuade a soul to attend -him. Every village will drive him from its doors; no one will risk -taking, at any price, death into his bosom. If strong enough, the -sufferer builds a little bough-hut away from the camp, and, provided -with his rations--a pound of grain and a gourdful of water--he quietly -expects his doom, to feed the hyæna and the raven of the wild. The -people are remarkable for the readiness with which they yield to fits of -sudden fury; on these occasions they will, like children, vent their -rage upon any object, animate or inanimate, that presents itself. Their -temper is characterised by a nervous, futile impatience; under delay or -disappointment they become madmen. In their own country, where such -displays are safe, they are remarkable for a presumptuousness and a -violence of manner which elsewhere disappears. As the Arabs say, there -they are lions, here they become curs. Their squabbling and clamour pass -description: they are never happy except when in dispute. After a rapid -plunge into excitement, the brawlers alternately advance and recede, -pointing the finger of threat, howling and screaming, cursing and using -terms of insult which an inferior ingenuity--not want of will--causes to -fall short of the Asiatic’s model vituperation. After abusing each other -to their full, both “parties” usually burst into a loud laugh or a burst -of sobs. Their tears lie high; they weep like Goanese. After a cuff, a -man will cover his face with his hands and cry as if his heart would -break. More furious shrews than the women are nowhere met with. Here it -is a great truth that “the tongues of women cannot be governed.” They -work off excitement by scolding, and they weep little compared with the -men. Both sexes delight in “argument,” which here, as elsewhere, means -two fools talking foolishly. They will weary out of patience the most -loquacious of the Arabs. This development is characteristic of the East -African race, and “maneno marefu!”--long words!--will occur as a useless -reproof half a dozen times in the course of a single conversation. When -drunk, the East African is easily irritated; with the screams and -excited gestures of a maniac he strides about, frantically flourishing -his spear and agitating his bow, probably with notched arrow; the -spear-point and the arrow-head are often brought perilously near, but -rarely allowed to draw blood. The real combat is by pushing, pulling -hair, and slapping with a will, and a pair thus engaged require to be -torn asunder by half a dozen friends. The settled tribes are, for the -most part, feeble and unwarlike barbarians; even the bravest East -African, though, like all men, a combative entity, has a valour tempered -by discretion and cooled by a high development of cautiousness. His -tactics are of the Fabian order: he loves surprises and safe ambuscades; -and in common frays and forays the loss of one per cent. justifies a -_sauve qui peut_. This people, childlike, is ever in extremes. A man -will hang himself from a rafter in his tent, and kick away from under -him the large wooden mortar upon which he has stood at the beginning of -the operation with as much sang-froid as an Anglo-Saxon in the gloomy -month of November; yet he regards annihilation, as all savages do, with -loathing and ineffable horror. “He fears death,” to quote Bacon, “as -children fear to go in the dark; and as that natural fear in children is -increased with tales, so is the other.” The African mind must change -radically before it can “think upon death, and find it the least of all -evils.” All the thoughts of these negroids are connected with this life. -“Ah!” they exclaim, “it is bad to die! to leave off eating and drinking! -never to wear a fine cloth!” As in the negro race generally, their -destructiveness is prominent; a slave never breaks a thing without an -instinctive laugh of pleasure; and however careful he may be of his own -life, he does not value that of another, even of a relative, at the -price of a goat. During fires in the town of Zanzibar, the blacks have -been seen adding fuel, and singing and dancing, wild with delight. On -such occasions they are shot down by the Arabs like dogs. - -It is difficult to explain the state of society in which the civilised -“social evil” is not recognised as an evil. In the economy of the -affections and the intercourse between the sexes, reappears that rude -stage of society in which ethics were new to the mind of now enlightened -man. Marriage with this people--as amongst all barbarians, and even the -lower classes of civilised races--is a mere affair of buying and -selling. A man must marry because it is necessary to his comfort, -consequently the woman becomes a marketable commodity. Her father -demands for her as many cows, cloths, and brass-wire bracelets as the -suitor can afford; he thus virtually sells her, and she belongs to the -buyer, ranking with his other live stock. The husband may sell his wife, -or, if she be taken from him by another man, he claims her value, which -is ruled by what she would fetch in the slave-market. A strong -inducement to marriage amongst the Africans, as with the poor in Europe, -is the prospective benefit to be derived from an adult family; a large -progeny enriches them. The African--like all barbarians, and, indeed, -semi-civilised people--ignores the dowry by which, inverting Nature’s -order, the wife buys the husband, instead of the husband buying the -wife. Marriage, which is an epoch amongst Christians, and an event with -Moslems, is with these people an incident of frequent recurrence. -Polygamy is unlimited, and the chiefs pride themselves upon the number -of their wives, varying from twelve to three hundred. It is no disgrace -for an unmarried woman to become the mother of a family; after matrimony -there is somewhat less laxity. The mgoni or adulterer, if detected, is -punishable by a fine of cattle, or, if poor and weak, he is sold into -slavery; husbands seldom, however, resort to such severities, the -offence, which is considered to be against vested property, being held -to be lighter than petty larceny. Under the influence of jealousy, -murders and mutilations have been committed, but they are rare and -exceptional. Divorce is readily effected by turning the spouse out of -doors, and the children become the father’s property. Attachment to home -is powerful in the African race, but it regards rather the comforts and -pleasures of the house, and the unity of relations and friends, than the -fondness of family. Husband, wife, and children have through life -divided interests, and live together with scant appearance of affection. -Love of offspring can have but little power amongst a people who have no -preventive for illegitimacy, and whose progeny may be sold at any time. -The children appear undemonstrative and unaffectionate, as those of the -Somal. Some attachment to their mothers breaks out, not in outward -indications, but by surprise, as it were: “Mámá! mámá!”--mother! -mother!--is a common exclamation in fear or wonder. When childhood is -passed, the father and son become natural enemies, after the manner of -wild beasts. Yet they are a sociable race, and the sudden loss of -relatives sometimes leads from grief to hypochondria and insanity, -resulting from the inability of their minds to bear any unusual strain. -It is probable that a little learning would make them mad, like the -Widad, or priest of the Somal, who, after mastering the reading of the -Koran, becomes unfit for any exertion of judgment or common sense. To -this over-development of sociability must be ascribed the anxiety always -shown to shift, evade, or answer blame. The “ukosa,” or transgression, -is never accepted; any number of words will be wasted in proving the -worse the better cause. Hence also the favourite phrase, “Mbáyá -we!”--thou art bad!--a pet mode of reproof which sounds simple and -uneffective to European ears. - -The social position of the women--the unerring test of progress towards -civilisation--is not so high in East Africa as amongst the more highly -organised tribes of the south. Few parts of the country own the rule of -female chiefs. The people, especially the Wanyamwezi, consult their -wives, but the opinion of a brother or a friend would usually prevail -over that of a woman. - -The deficiency of the East African in constructive power has already -been remarked. Contented with his haystack or beehive hut, his -hemisphere of boughs, or his hide acting tent, he hates and has a truly -savage horror of stone walls. He has the conception of the “Madeleine,” -but he has never been enabled to be delivered of it. Many Wanyamwezi, -when visiting Zanzibar, cannot be prevailed upon to enter a house. - -The East African is greedy and voracious; he seems, however, to prefer -light and frequent to a few regular and copious meals. Even the -civilised Kisawahili has no terms to express the breakfast, dinner, and -supper of other languages. Like most barbarians, the East African can -exist and work with a small quantity of food, but he is unaccustomed, -and therefore unable, to bear thirst. The daily ration of a porter is 1 -kubabah (= 1·5 lbs.) of grain; he can, with the assistance of edible -herbs and roots, which he is skilful in discovering in the least likely -places, eke out this allowance for several days, though generally, upon -the barbarian’s impulsive principle of mortgaging the future for the -present, he recklessly consumes his stores. With him the grand end of -life is eating; his love of feeding is inferior only to his propensity -for intoxication. He drinks till he can no longer stand, lies down to -sleep, and awakes to drink again. Drinking-bouts are solemn things, to -which the most important business must yield precedence. They celebrate -with beer every event--the traveller’s return, the birth of a child, and -the death of an elephant--a labourer will not work unless beer is -provided for him. A guest is received with a gourdful of beer, and, -amongst some tribes, it is buried with their princes. The highest orders -rejoice in drink, and pride themselves upon powers of imbibing: the -proper diet for a king is much beer and a little meat. If a Mnyamwezi be -asked after eating whether he is hungry, he will reply yea, meaning that -he is not drunk. Intoxication excuses crime in these lands. The East -African, when in his cups, must issue from his hut to sing, dance, or -quarrel, and the frequent and terrible outrages which occur on these -occasions are passed over on the plea that he has drunk beer. The -favourite hour for drinking is after dawn,--a time as distasteful to the -European as agreeable to the African and Asiatic. This might be proved -by a host of quotations from the poets, Arab, Persian, and Hindu. The -civilised man avoids early potations because they incapacitate him for -necessary labour, and he attempts to relieve the headache caused by -stimulants. The barbarian and the semi-civilised, on the other hand, -prefer them, because they relieve the tedium of his monotonous day; and -they cherish the headache because they can sleep the longer, and, when -they awake, they have something to think of. The habit once acquired is -never broken: it attaches itself to the heartstrings of the idle and -unoccupied barbarian. - -In morality, according to the more extended sense of the word, the East -African is markedly deficient. He has no benevolence, but little -veneration--the negro race is ever irreverent--and, though his cranium -rises high in the region of firmness, his futility prevents his being -firm. The outlines of law are faintly traced upon his heart. The -authoritative standard of morality fixed by a revelation is in him -represented by a vague and varying custom, derived traditionally from -his ancestors; he follows in their track for old-sake’s sake. The -accusing conscience is unknown to him. His only fear after committing a -treacherous murder is that of being haunted by the angry ghost of the -dead; he robs as one doing a good deed, and he begs as if it were his -calling. His depravity is of the grossest: intrigue fills up all the -moments not devoted to intoxication. - -The want of veneration produces a savage rudeness in the East African. -The body politic consists of two great members, masters and slaves. -Ignoring distinctions of society, he treats all men, except his chief, -as his equals. He has no rules for visiting: if the door be open, he -enters a stranger’s house uninvited; his harsh, barking voice is ever -the loudest; he is never happy except when hearing himself speak; his -address is imperious, his demeanour is rough and peremptory, and his -look “sfacciato.” He deposits his unwashed person, in his greasy and -tattered goat-skin or cloth, upon rug or bedding, disdaining to stand -for a moment, and he always chooses the best place in the room. When -travelling he will push forward to secure the most comfortable hut: the -chief of a caravan may sleep in rain or dew, but, if he attempt to -dislodge his porters, they lie down with the settled purpose of -mules--as the Arabs say, they “have no shame.” The curiosity of these -people, and the little ceremony with which they gratify it, are at times -most troublesome. A stranger must be stared at; total apathy is the only -remedy: if the victim lose his temper, or attempt to dislodge them, he -will find it like disturbing a swarm of bees. They will come for miles -to “sow gape-seed:” if the tent-fly be closed, they will peer and peep -from below, complaining loudly against the occupant, and, if further -prevented, they may proceed to violence. On the road hosts of idlers, -especially women, boys, and girls, will follow the caravan for hours; it -is a truly offensive spectacle--these uncouth figures, running at a -“gymnastic pace,” half clothed except with grease, with pendent bosoms -shaking in the air, and cries that resemble the howls of beasts more -than any effort of human articulation. This offensive ignorance of the -first principles of social intercourse has been fostered in the races -most visited by the Arabs, whose national tendency, like the Italian and -the Greek, is ever and essentially republican. When strangers first -appeared in the country they were received with respect and deference. -They soon, however, lost this vantage-ground: they sat and chatted with -the people, exchanged pleasantries, and suffered slights, till the -Africans found themselves on an equality with their visitors. The evil -has become inveterate, and no greater contrast can be imagined than that -between the manners of an Indian Ryot and an East African Mshenzi. - -In intellect the East African is sterile and incult, apparently -unprogressive and unfit for change. Like the uncivilised generally, he -observes well, but he can deduce nothing profitable from his -perceptions. His intelligence is surprising when compared with that of -an uneducated English peasant; but it has a narrow bound, beyond which -apparently no man may pass. Like the Asiatic, in fact, he is stationary, -but at a much lower level. Devotedly fond of music, his love of tune has -invented nothing but whistling and the whistle: his instruments are all -borrowed from the coast people. He delights in singing, yet he has no -metrical songs: he contents himself with improvising a few words -without sense or rhyme, and repeats them till they nauseate: the long, -drawling recitative generally ends in “Ah! ha^{n}!” or some such -strongly-nasalised sound. Like the Somal, he has tunes appropriated to -particular occasions, as the elephant-hunt or the harvest-home. When -mourning, the love of music assumes a peculiar form: women weeping or -sobbing, especially after chastisement, will break into a protracted -threne or dirge, every period of which concludes with its own particular -groan or wail: after venting a little natural distress in a natural -sound, the long, loud improvisation, in the highest falsetto key, -continues as before. As in Europe the “laughing-song” is an imitation of -hilarity somewhat distressing to the spirits of the audience, so the -“weeping-song” of the African only tends to risibility. His wonderful -loquacity and volubility of tongue have produced no tales, poetry, nor -display of eloquence; though, like most barbarians, somewhat -sententious, he will content himself with squabbling with his -companions, or with repeating some meaningless word in every different -tone of voice during the weary length of a day’s march. His language is -highly artificial and musical: the reader will have observed that the -names which occur in these pages often consist entirely of liquids and -vowels, that consonants are unknown at the end of a word, and that they -never are double except at the beginning. Yet the idea of a syllabarium -seems not to have occurred to the negroid mind. Finally, though the East -African delights in the dance, and is an excellent timist--a thousand -heels striking the ground simultaneously sound like one--his performance -is as uncouth as perhaps was ever devised by man. He delights in a joke, -which manages him like a Neapolitan; yet his efforts in wit are of the -feeblest that can be conceived. - -Though the general features of character correspond throughout the -tribes in East Africa, there are also marked differences. The Wazaramo, -for instance, are considered the most dangerous tribe on this line: -caravans hurry through their lands, and hold themselves fortunate if a -life be not lost, or if a few loads be not missing. Their neighbours, -the Wasagara of the hills, were once peaceful and civil to travellers: -the persecutions of the coast-people have rendered them morose and -suspicious; they now shun strangers, and, never knowing when they may be -attacked, they live in a constant state of agitation, excitement, and -alarm. After the Wazaramo, the tribes of Ugogo are considered the most -noisy and troublesome, the most extortionate, quarrelsome and violent on -this route: nothing restrains these races from bloodshed and plunder but -fear of retribution and self-interest. The Wanyamwezi bear the highest -character for civilisation, discipline, and industry. Intercourse with -the coast, however, is speedily sapping the foundations of their -superiority: the East African Expedition suffered more from thieving in -this than in any other territory, and the Arabs now depend for existence -there not upon prestige, but sufferance, in consideration of mutual -commercial advantage. In proportion as the traveller advances into the -interior, he finds the people less humane, or rather less human. The -Wavinza, the Wajiji, and the other Lakist tribes, much resemble one -another: they are extortionate, violent, and revengeful barbarians; no -Mnyamwezi dares to travel alone through their territories, and small -parties are ever in danger of destruction. - -In dealing with the East African the traveller cannot do better than to -follow the advice of Bacon--“Use savages justly and graciously, with -sufficient guard nevertheless.” They must be held as foes; and the -prudent stranger will never put himself in their power, especially where -life is concerned. The safety of a caravan will often depend upon the -barbarian’s fear of beginning the fray: if the onset once takes place, -the numbers, the fierce looks, the violent gestures, and the confidence -of the assailants upon their own ground, will probably prevail. When -necessary, however, severity must be employed; leniency and forbearance -are the vulnerable points of civilised policy, as they encourage attack -by a suspicion of fear and weakness. They may be managed as the Indian -saw directs, by a judicious mixture of the “Narm” and “Garm”--the soft -and hot. Thus the old traders remarked in Guinea, that the best way to -treat a black man was to hold out one hand to shake with him, while the -other is doubled ready to knock him down. In trading with, or even when -dwelling amongst this people, all display of wealth must be avoided. A -man who would purchase the smallest article avoids showing anything -beyond its equivalent. - -The ethnologist who compares this sketch with the far more favourable -description of the Kafirs, a kindred race, given by travellers in South -Africa, may suspect that only the darker shades of the picture are -placed before the eye. But, as will appear in a future page, much of -this moral degradation must be attributed to the working, through -centuries, of the slave-trade: the tribes are no longer as nature made -them; and from their connection with strangers they have derived nothing -but corruption. Though of savage and barbarous type, they have been -varnished with the semi-civilisation of trade and commerce, which sits -ridiculously upon their minds as a rich garment would upon their -persons. - -Fetissism--the word is derived from the Portuguese feitiço, “a -doing,”--scil. of magic, by euphuism--is still the only faith known in -East Africa. Its origin is easily explained by the aspect of the -physical world, which has coloured the thoughts and has directed the -belief of man: he reflects, in fact, the fantastical and monstrous -character of the animal and vegetable productions around him. Nature, in -these regions rarely sublime or beautiful, more often terrible and -desolate, with the gloomy forest, the impervious jungle, the tangled -hill, and the dread uniform waste tenanted by deadly inhabitants, -arouses in his mind a sensation of utter feebleness, a vague and -nameless awe. Untaught to recommend himself for protection to a Superior -Being, he addresses himself directly to the objects of his reverence and -awe: he prostrates himself before the sentiment within him, hoping to -propitiate it as he would satisfy a fellow-man. The grand mysteries of -life and death, to him unrevealed and unexplained, the want of a true -interpretation of the admirable phenomena of creation, and the vagaries -and misconceptions of his own degraded imagination, awaken in him ideas -of horror, and people the invisible world with ghost and goblin, demon -and spectrum, the incarnations, as it were, of his own childish fears. -Deepened by the dread of destruction, ever strong in the barbarian -breast, his terror causes him to look with suspicion upon all around -him: “How,” inquires the dying African, “can I alone be ill when others -are well, unless I have been bewitched?” Hence the belief in magical and -supernatural powers in man, which the stronger minded have turned to -their own advantage. - -Fetissism is the adoration, or rather the propitiation, of natural -objects, animate and inanimate, to which certain mysterious influences -are attributed. It admits neither god, nor angel, nor devil; it ignores -the very alphabet of revealed or traditionary religion--a creation, a -resurrection, a judgment-day, a soul or a spirit, a heaven or a hell. A -modified practical atheism is thus the prominent feature of the -superstition. Though instinctively conscious of a being above them, the -Africans have as yet failed to grasp the idea: in their feeble minds it -is an embryo rather than a conception--at the best a vague god, without -personality, attributes, or providence. They call that being Mulungu, -the Uhlunga of the Kafirs, and the Utika of the Hottentots. The term, -however, may mean a ghost, the firmament, or the sun; a man will -frequently call himself Mulungu, and even Mulungu Mbaya, the latter word -signifying bad or wicked. In the language of the Wamasai “Ai,” or with -the article “Engai”--the Creator--is feminine, the god and rain being -synonymous. - -The Fetiss superstition is African, but not confined to Africa. The -faith of ancient Egypt, the earliest system of profane belief known to -man, with its Triad denoting the various phases and powers of nature, -was essentially fetissist; whilst in the Syrian mind dawned at first the -idea of “Melkart,” a god of earth, and his Baalim, angels, viceregents, -or local deities. But generally the history of religions proves that -when man, whether degraded from primal elevation or elevated from primal -degradation, has progressed a step beyond atheism--the spiritual state -of the lowest savagery--he advances to the modification called -Fetissism, the condition of the infant mind of humanity. According to -the late Col. Van Kennedy, “such expressions as the love and fear of -God never occur in the sacred books of the Hindus.” The ancient Persians -were ignicolists, adoring ethereal fire. Confucius owned that he knew -nothing about the gods, and therefore preferred saying as little as -possible upon the subject. Men, still without tradition or training, -confused the Creator with creation, and ventured not to place the burden -of providence upon a single deity. Slaves to the agencies of material -nature, impressed by the splendours of the heavenly bodies, comforted by -fire and light, persuaded by their familiarity with the habits of wild -beasts that the brute creation and the human claimed a mysterious -affinity, humbled by the terrors of elemental war, and benefitted by -hero and sage,-- - - “Quicquid humus, pelagus, cœlum mirabile gignunt, - Id duxere deos.” - -The barbarian worshipped these visible objects not as types, myths, -divine emanations, or personifications of a deity: he adored them for -themselves. The modern theory, the mode in which full-grown man explains -away the follies of his childhood, making the interpretation precede the -fable, fails when tested by experience. The Hindu, and, indeed, the -ignorant Christian, still adore the actual image of man and beast; it is -unreasonable to suppose that they kneel before and worship with heart -and soul its metaphysics; and an attempt to allegorise it, or to deprive -it of its specific virtues, would be considered, as in ancient Greece -and Rome, mere impiety. - -By its essence, then, Fetissism is a rude and sensual superstition, the -faith of abject fear, and of infant races that have not risen, and are, -perhaps, incapable of rising to theism--the religion of love and the -belief of the highest types of mankind. But old creeds die hard, and -error, founded upon the instincts and feelings of human nature borrows -the coherence and uniformity of truth. That Fetissism is a belief common -to man in the childhood of his spiritual life, may be proved by the -frequent and extensive remains of the faith which the cretinism of the -Hamitic race has perpetuated amongst them to the present day, still -sprouting like tares even in the fair field of revealed religion. The -dread of ghosts, for instance, which is the mainstay of Fetissism, is -not inculcated in any sacred book, yet the belief is not to be -abolished. Thus the Rakshasa of the Hindus is a disembodied spirit, -doing evil to mankind; and the ghost of the prophet Samuel, raised by -the familiar of the Witch of Endor, was the immortal part of a mortal -being, still connected with earth, and capable of returning to it. -Through the Manes, the Umbra, and the Spectrum of the ancients, the -belief has descended to the moderns, as the household words ghost, -goblin, and bogle, revenant, polter-geist, and spook, Duh, Dusha, and -Dukh attest. Precisely similar to the African ghost-faith is the old -Irish belief in Banshees, Pookas, and other evil entities; the corporeal -frame of the dead forms other bodies, but the spirit hovers in the air, -watching the destiny of friends, haunting houses, killing children, -injuring cattle, and causing disease and destruction. Everywhere, too, -their functions are the same: all are malevolent to the living, and they -are seldom known to do good. The natural horror and fear of death which -may be observed even in the lower animals has caused the dead to be -considered vindictive and destructive. - -Some missionaries have detected in the habit, which prevails throughout -Eastern and Western Africa, of burying slaves with the deceased, of -carrying provisions to graves, and of lighting fires on cold nights near -the last resting-places of the departed, a continuation of relations -between the quick and the dead which points to a belief in a future -state of existence. The wish is father to that thought: the doctrine of -the soul, of immortality, belongs to a superior order of mind, to a more -advanced stage of society. The belief, as its operations show, is in -presentity, materialism, not in futurity, spiritualism. According to the -ancients, man is a fourfold being:-- - - “Bis duo sunt homini, manes, caro, spiritus, umbra: - Quatuor hæc loci bis duo suscipiunt - Terra tegit carnem, tumulum circumvolitat umbra, - Manes Orcus habet, spiritus astra petit.” - -Take away the Manes and the astral Spirit, and remains the African -belief in the ειδωλον or Umbra, spiritus, or ghost. When the savage and -the barbarian are asked what has become of the “old people” (their -ancestors), over whose dust and ashes they perform obsequies, these -veritable secularists only smile and reply Wáme-kwisha, “they are -ended.” It proves the inferior organisation of the race. Even the North -American aborigines, a race which Nature apparently disdains to -preserve, decided that man hath a future, since even Indian corn is -vivified and rises again. The East African has created of his fears a -ghost which never attains the perfect form of a soul. This inferior -development has prevented his rising to the social status of the Hindu, -and other anciently civilised races, whom a life wholly wanting in -purpose and occupation drove from the excitement necessary to stimulate -the mind towards a hidden or mysterious future. These wild races seek -otherwise than in their faith a something to emotionise and to agitate -them. - -The East African’s Credenda--it has not arrived at the rank of a system, -this vague and misty dawning of a creed--are based upon two main -articles. The first is demonology, or, rather, the existence of Koma, -the spectra of the dead; the second is Uchawi, witchcraft or black -magic, a corollary to the principal theorem. Few, and only the tribes -adjacent to the maritime regions, have derived from El Islam a faint -conception of the one Supreme. There is no trace in this country of the -ancient and modern animal-worship of Egypt and India, though travellers -have asserted that vestiges of it exist amongst the kindred race of -Kafirs. The African has no more of Sabæism than what belongs to the -instinct of man: he has a reverence for the sun and moon, the latter is -for evident reasons in higher esteem, but he totally ignores -star-worship. If questioned concerning his daily bread, he will point -with a devotional aspect towards the light of day; and if asked what -caused the death of his brother, will reply Jua, or Rimwe, the sun. He -has not, like the Kafir, a holiday at the epoch of new moon: like the -Moslem, however, on first seeing it, he raises and claps his hands in -token of obeisance. The Mzimo, or Fetiss hut, is the first germ of a -temple, and the idea is probably derived from the Kurban of the Arabs. -It is found throughout the country, especially in Uzaramo, Unyamwezi, -and Karagwah. It is in the shape of a dwarf house, one or two feet high, -with a thatched roof, but without walls. Upon the ground, or suspended -from the roof, are handfuls of grain and small pots full of beer, placed -there to propitiate the ghosts, and to defend the crops from injury. - -A prey to base passions and melancholy godless fears, the Fetissist, -who peoples with malevolent beings the invisible world, animates -material nature with evil influences. The rites of his dark and deadly -superstition are all intended to avert evils from himself, by -transferring them to others: hence the witchcraft and magic which flow -naturally from the system of demonology. Men rarely die without the wife -or children, the kindred or slaves, being accused of having compassed -their destruction by “throwing the glamour over them;” and, as has been -explained, the trial and the conviction are of the most arbitrary -nature. Yet witchcraft is practised by thousands with the firmest -convictions in their own powers; and though frightful tortures await the -wizard and the witch who have been condemned for the destruction of -chief or elder, the vindictiveness of the negro drives him readily to -the malevolent practices of sorcery. As has happened in Europe and -elsewhere, in the presence of torture and the instant advance of death, -the sorcerer and sorceress will not only confess, but even boast of and -believe in, their own criminality. “Verily I slew such a one!--I brought -about the disease of such another!”--these are their demented vaunts, -the offspring of mental imbecility, stimulated by traditional -hallucination. - -In this state of spiritual death there is, as may be imagined, but -little of the fire of fanaticism: polemics are as unknown as politics to -them; their succedaneum for a god is not a jealous god. But upon the -subjects of religious belief and revelation all men are equal: Davus -becomes Œdipus, the fool is as the sage. What the “I” believes, that the -“Thou” must acknowledge, under the pains and penalties of offending -Self-esteem. Whilst the African’s faith is weakly catholic, he will not -admit that other men are wiser on this point than himself. Yet he will -fast like a Moslem, because doing something seems to raise him in the -scale of creation. His mind, involved in the trammels of his -superstition, and enchained by custom, is apparently incapable of -receiving the impressions of El Islam. His Fetissism, unspiritualised by -the philosophic Pantheism and Polytheism of Europe and Asia, has -hitherto unfitted him for that belief which was readily accepted by the -more Semitic maritime races, the Somal, the Wasawahili, and the Wamrima. -To a certain extent, also, it has been the policy of the Arab to avoid -proselytising, which would lead to comparative equality: for sordid -lucre the Moslem has left the souls of these Kafirs to eternal -perdition. According to most doctors of the saving faith, an ardent -proselytiser might convert by the sword whole tribes, though he might -not succeed with individuals, who cannot break through the ties of -society. The “Mombas Mission,” however, relying upon the powers of -persuasion, unequivocally failed, and pronounced their flock to be “not -behind the greatest infidels and scoffers of Europe: they blaspheme, in -fact, like children.” With characteristic want of veneration they would -say, “Your Lord is a bad master, for he does not cure his servants.” -When an early convert died, the Wanyika at once decided that there is no -Saviour, as he does not prevent the decease of a friend. The sentiment -generally elicited by a discourse upon the subject of the existence of a -Deity is a desire to see him, in order to revenge upon him the deaths of -relatives, friends, and cattle.[17] - - [17] That the Western African negro resembles in this point his - negroid brother, the following extract from an amusing and truthful - little volume, entitled “Trade and Travels in the Gulf of Guinea and - Western Africa” (London: Simpkin and Marshall, 1851), will prove:-- - - Always anxious,--says Mr. J. Smith, the author,--to get any of them - (the Western Africans) to talk about God and religion, I said, “What - have you been doing King Pepple?” - - “All the same as you do,--I tank God.” - - “For what?” - - “Every good ting God sends me.” - - “Have you seen God?” - - “Chi! no;--suppose man see God, he must die one minute.” (He would die - in a moment.) - - “When you die won’t you see God?” - - With great warmth, “I know no savvy. (I don’t know.) How should I - know? Never mind. I no want to hear more for that palaver.” (I want no - more talk on that subject.) - - “What way?” (Why?) - - “It no be your business, you come here for trade palaver.” - - I knew--resumes Mr. Smith--it would be of no use pursuing the subject - at that time, so I was silent, and it dropped for the moment. - - In speaking of him dying, I had touched a very tender and disagreeable - chord, for he looked very savage and sulky, and I saw by the rapid - changes in his countenance that he was the subject of some intense - internal emotion. At length he broke out, using most violent - gesticulations, and exhibiting a most inhuman expression of - countenance, “Suppose God was here, I must kill him, one minute!” - - “You what? you kill God?” followed I, quite taken aback, and almost - breathless with the novel and diabolical notion; “You kill God? why, - you talk all some fool” (like a fool); “you cannot kill God; and - suppose it possible that God could die, everything would cease to - exist. He is the Spirit of the universe. But he can kill you.” - - “I know I cannot kill him; but suppose I could kill him, I would.” - - “Where does God live?” - - “For top.” - - “How?” He pointed to the zenith. - - “And suppose you could, why would you kill him?” - - “Because he makes men to die.” - - “Why, my friend,” in a conciliatory manner, “you would not wish to - live for ever, would you?” - - “Yes, I want to stand” (remain for ever). - - “But you will be old by and by, and if you live long enough, will - become very infirm, like that old man,” pointing to a man very old for - an African and thin, and lame, and almost blind, who had come into the - court during the foregoing conversation, to ask for some favour (I - wonder he had not been destroyed),--“and like him you will become - lame, and deaf, and blind, and will be able to take no pleasure; would - it not be better, then, for you to die when this takes place, and you - are in pain and trouble, and so make room for your son, as your father - did for you?” - - “No, it would not; I want to stand all same I stand now.” - - “But supposing you should go to a place of happiness after death - and----” - - “I no savvy nothing about that, I know that I now live, and have too - many wives, and niggers (slaves), and canoes,” (he did not mean what - he said, in saying he had too many wives, &c., it is their way of - expressing a great number,) “and that I am king, and plenty of ships - come to my country. I know no other ting, and I want to stand.” - - I offered a reply, but he would hear no more, and so the conversation - on that subject ceased; and we proceeded to discuss one not much more - agreeable to him--the payment of a very considerable debt which he - owed me. - -Fetissism supplies an abundance of professionally holy men. The “Mfumo” -is translated by the Arabs Bassar, a seer or clairvoyant. The Mchawi is -the Sahhar, magician, or adept in the black art. Amongst the Wazegura -and the Wasagara is the Mgonezi, a word Arabised into Rammal or -Geomantist. He practises the Miramoro, or divination and prediction of -fray and famine, death and disease, by the relative position of small -sticks, like spilikins, cast at random on the ground. The “rain-maker,” -or “rain-doctor” of the Cape, common throughout these tribes, and -extending far north of the equator, is called in East Africa Mganga, in -the plural Waganga: the Arabs term him Tabib, doctor or physician. - -The Mganga, in the central regions termed Mfumo, may be considered as -the rude beginning of a sacerdotal order. These drones, who swarm -throughout the land, are of both sexes: the women, however, generally -confine themselves to the medical part of the profession. The calling is -hereditary, the eldest or the cleverest son begins his neoteric -education at an early age, and succeeds to his father’s functions. There -is little mystery in the craft, and the magicians of Unyamwezi have not -refused to initiate some of the Arabs. The power of the Mganga is great: -he is treated as a sultan, whose word is law, and as a giver of life and -death. He is addressed by a kingly title, and is permitted to wear the -chieftain’s badge, made of the base of a conical shell. He is also known -by a number of small greasy and blackened gourds, filled with physic and -magic, hanging round his waist, and by a little more of the usual -grime--sanctity and dirt being connected in Africa as elsewhere. These -men are sent for from village to village, and receive as obventions and -spiritual fees sheep and goats, cattle and provisions. Their persons, -however, are not sacred, and for criminal acts they are punished like -other malefactors. The greatest danger to them is an excess of fame. A -celebrated magician rarely, if ever, dies a natural death: too much is -expected from him, and a severer disappointment leads to consequences -more violent than usual. The Arabs deride their pretensions, comparing -them depreciatingly to the workers of Simiya, or conjuration, in their -own country. They remark that the wizard can never produce rain in the -dry, or avert it in the wet season. The many, however, who, to use a -West African phrase, have “become black” from a long residence in the -country, acquire a sneaking belief in the Waganga, and fear of their -powers. The well-educated classes in Zanzibar consult these heathen, as -the credulous of other Eastern countries go to the astrologer and -geomantist, and in Europe to the clairvoyant and the tireuse de cartes. -In one point this proceeding is wise: the wizard rarely wants wits; and -whatever he has heard secretly or openly will inevitably appear in the -course of his divination. - -It must not be supposed, however, that the Mganga is purely an impostor. -To deceive others thoroughly a man must first deceive himself, otherwise -he will be detected by the least discerning. This is the simple secret -of so many notable successes, achieved in the most unpromising causes by -self-reliance and enthusiasm, the parents of energy and consistence. -These barbarians are more often sinned against by their own fears and -fooleries of faith, than sinners against their fellow-men by fraud and -falsehood. - -The office of Uganga includes many duties. The same man is a physician -by natural and supernatural means, a mystagogue or medicine-man, a -detector of sorcery, by means of the Judicium Dei or ordeal, a -rain-maker, a conjuror, an augur, and a prophet. - -As a rule, all diseases, from a boil to marasmus senilis, are attributed -by the Fetissist to P’hepo, Hubub, or Afflatus. The three words are -synonymous. P’hepo, in Kisawahili, is the plural form of upepo (a -zephyr), used singularly to signify a high wind, a whirlwind (“devil”), -and an evil ghost, generally of a Moslem. Hubub, the Arabic translation, -means literally the blowing of wind, and metaphorically “possession.” -The African phrase for a man possessed is “ana p’hepo,” “he has a -devil.” The Mganga is expected to heal the patient by expelling the -possession. Like the evil spirit in the days of Saul, the unwelcome -visitant must be charmed away by sweet music; the drums cause -excitement, and violent exercise expels the ghost, as saltation -nullifies in Italy the venom of the tarantula. The principal remedies -are drumming, dancing, and drinking, till the auspicious moment arrives. -The ghost is then enticed from the body of the possessed into some -inanimate article, which he will condescend to inhabit. This, -technically called a Keti, or stool, may be a certain kind of bead, two -or more bits of wood bound together by a strip of snake’s skin, a lion’s -or a leopard’s claw, and other similar articles, worn round the head, -the arm, the wrist, or the ankle. Paper is still considered great -medicine by the Wasukuma and other tribes, who will barter valuable -goods for a little bit: the great desideratum of the charm, in fact, -appears to be its rarity, or the difficulty of obtaining it. Hence also -the habit of driving nails into and hanging rags upon trees. The -vegetable itself is not worshipped, as some Europeans who call it the -“Devil’s tree” have supposed: it is merely the place for the laying of -ghosts, where by appending the Keti most acceptable to the spectrum, he -will be bound over to keep the peace with man. Several accidents in the -town of Zanzibar have confirmed even the higher orders in their lurking -superstition. Mr. Peters, an English merchant, annoyed by the slaves who -came in numbers to hammer nails and to hang iron hoops and rags upon a -“Devil’s tree” in his courtyard, ordered it to be cut down, to the -horror of all the black beholders, of whom no one would lay an axe to -it. Within six months five persons died in that house--Mr. Peters, his -two clerks, his cooper, and his ship’s carpenter. This superstition will -remind the traveller of the Indian Pipul (Ficus religiosa), in which -fiends are supposed to roost, and suggest to the Orientalist an -explanation of the mysterious Moslem practices common from Western -Africa to the farthest East. The hanging of rags upon trees by pilgrims -and travellers is probably a relic of Arab Fetissism, derived in the -days of ignorance from their congeners in East Africa. The custom has -spread far and wide: even the Irish peasantry have been in the habit of -suspending to the trees and bushes near their “holy wells” rags, -halters, and spancels, in token of gratitude for their recovery, or that -of their cattle. - -There are other mystical means of restoring the sick to health; one -specimen will suffice. Several little sticks, like matches, are daubed -with ochre, and marks are made with them upon the patient’s body. A -charm is chanted, the possessed one responds, and at the end of every -stave an evil spirit flies from him, the signal being a stick cast by -the Mganga upon the ground. Some unfortunates have as many as a dozen -haunting ghosts, each of which has his own periapt: the Mganga demands a -distinct honorarium for the several expulsions. Wherever danger is, fear -will be; wherever fear is, charms and spells, exorcisms and talismans of -portentous powers will be in demand; and wherever supernaturalisms are -in requisition, men will be found, for a consideration, to supply them. - -These strange rites are to be explained upon the principle which -underlies thaumaturgy in general: they result from conviction in a gross -mass of exaggerations heaped by ignorance, falsehood, and credulity, -upon the slenderest foundation of fact--a fact doubtless solvable by the -application of natural laws. The African temperament has strong -susceptibilities, combined with what appears to be a weakness of brain, -and great excitability of the nervous system, as is proved by the -prevalence of epilepsy, convulsions, and hysteric disease. According to -the Arab, El Sara, epilepsy, or the falling sickness, is peculiarly -common throughout East Africa; and, as we know by experience in lands -more civilised, the sudden prostration, rigidity, contortions, &c. of -the patient, strongly suggest the idea that he has been taken and seized -(επιληφθεις) by, as it were, some external and invisible agent. The -negroid is, therefore, peculiarly liable to the epidemical mania called -“Phantasmata,” which, according to history, has at times of great -mental agitation and popular disturbance broken out in different parts -of Europe, and which, even in this our day, forms the basework of -“revivals.” Thus in Africa the objective existence of spectra has become -a tenet of belief. Stories that stagger the most sceptical are told -concerning the phenomenon by respectable and not unlearned Arabs, who -point to their fellow-countrymen as instances. Salim bin Rashid, a -half-caste merchant, well known at Zanzibar, avers, and his companions -bear witness to his words, that on one occasion, when travelling -northwards from Unyanyembe, the possession occurred to himself. During -the night two female slaves, his companions, of whom one was a child, -fell, without apparent cause, into the fits which denote the approach of -a spirit. Simultaneously, the master became as one intoxicated; a dark -mass, material, not spiritual, entered the tent, and he felt himself -pulled and pushed by a number of black figures, whom he had never before -seen. He called aloud to his companions and slaves, who, vainly -attempting to enter the tent, threw it down, and presently found him in -a state of stupor, from which he did not recover till the morning. The -same merchant circumstantially related, and called witnesses to prove, -that a small slave-boy, who was produced on the occasion, had been -frequently carried off by possession, even when confined in a windowless -room, with a heavy door carefully bolted and padlocked. Next morning the -victim was not found, although the chamber remained closed. A few days -afterwards he was met in the jungle wandering absently like an idiot, -and with speech too incoherent to explain what had happened to him. The -Arabs of Oman, who subscribe readily to transformation, deride these -tales; those of African blood believe them. The transformation-belief, -still so common in Maskat, Abyssinia, Somaliland, and the Cape, and -anciently an almost universal superstition, is, curious to say, unknown -amongst these East African tribes. The Wahiao, lying between Kilwa and -the Nyassa Lake, preserve, however, a remnant of the old creed in their -conviction, that a malevolent magician can change a man after death into -a lion, a leopard, or a hyæna. On the Zambezi the people, according to -Dr. Livingstone (chap. xxx.), believe that a chief may metamorphose -himself into a lion, kill any one he chooses, and then return to the -human form. About Tete (chap. xxxi.) the negroids hold that, “while -persons are still living, they may enter into lions and alligators, and -then return again to their own bodies.” Travellers determined to find in -Africa counterparts of European and Asiatic tenets, argue from this -transformation a belief in the “transmigration of souls.” They thus -confuse material metamorphosis with a spiritual progress, which is -assuredly not an emanation from the Hamitic mind. The Africans have -hitherto not bewildered their brains with metaphysics, and, ignoring the -idea of a soul, which appears to be a dogma of the Caucasian race, they -necessarily ignore its immortality. - -The second, and, perhaps, the most profitable occupation of the Mganga, -is the detection of Uchawi, or black magic. The fatuitous style of -conviction, and the fearful tortures which, in the different regions, -await those found guilty, have already been described, as far as -description is possible. Amongst a people where the magician is a police -detector, ordeals must be expected to thrive. The Baga or Kyapo of East -Africa--the Arabs translate it El Halaf, or the Oath--is as cruel, -absurd, and barbarous, as the red water of Ashanti, the venoms of -Kasanji (Cassange), the muavi of the Banyai tribes of Monomotapa, the -Tangina poison of the Malagash, the bitter water of the Jews, the -“saucy-water” of West Africa, and the fire tests of mediæval Europe. The -people of Usumbara thrust a red-hot hatchet into the mouth of the -accused. Among the south-eastern tribes a heated iron spike, driven into -some tender part of the person, is twice struck with a log of wood. The -Wazaramo dip the hand into boiling water, the Waganda into seething oil; -and the Wazegura prick the ear with the stiffest bristles of a gnu’s -tail. The Wakwafi have an ordeal of meat that chokes the guilty. The -Wanyamwezi pound with water between two stones, and infuse a poisonous -bark called “Mwavi:” it is first administered by the Mganga to a hen, -who, for the nonce, represents the suspected. If, however, all parties -be not satisfied with such trial, it is duly adhibited to the accused. - -In East Africa, from Somaliland to the Cape, and throughout the interior -amongst the negroids and negroes north as well as south of the equator, -the rain-maker or rain-doctor is a personage of consequence; and he does -not fail to turn the hopes and fears of the people to his own advantage. -A season of drought causes dearth, disease, and desolation amongst these -improvident races, who therefore connect every strange phenomenon with -the object of their desires, a copious wet monsoon. The enemy has -medicines which disperse the clouds. The stranger who brings with him -heavy showers is regarded as a being of good omen; usually, however, the -worst is expected from the novel portent; he will, for instance, be -accompanied and preceded by fertilising rains, but the wells and springs -will dry up after his departure, and the result will be drought or -small-pox. These rumours which may account for the Lybian -stranger-sacrifices in the olden time, are still dangerous to -travellers. The Mganga must remedy the evil. His spells are those of -fetissists in general, the mystic use of something foul, poisonous, or -difficult to procure, such as the album græcum of hyænas, snakes’ fangs, -or lions’ hair; these and similar articles are collected with -considerable trouble by the young men of the tribe for the use of the -rain-maker. But he is a weatherwise man, and rains in tropical lands are -easily foreseen. Not unfrequently, however, he proves himself a false -prophet; and when all the resources of cunning fail he must fly for dear -life from the victims of his delusion. - -The Mganga is also a predictor and a soothsayer. He foretels the -success or failure of commercial undertakings, of wars, and of -kidnapping-commandos; he foresees famine and pestilence, and he suggests -the means of averting calamities. He fixes also, before the commencement -of any serious affair, fortunate conjunctions, without which a good -issue cannot be expected. He directs expiatory offerings. His word is -ever powerful to expedite or to delay the march of a caravan; and in his -quality of augur he considers the flight of birds and the cries of -beasts, like his prototype of the same class in ancient Europe and in -modern Asia. - -The principal instrument of the Mganga’s craft is one of the dirty -little buyu or gourds which he wears in a bunch round his waist; and the -following is the usual programme when the oracle is to be consulted. The -magician brings his implements in a bag of matting; his demeanour is -serious as the occasion; he is carefully greased, and his head is -adorned with the diminutive antelope-horns fastened by a thong of -leather above the forehead. He sits like a sultan upon a dwarf stool in -front of the querist, and begins by exhorting the highest possible -offertory. No pay, no predict. Divination by the gourd has already been -described; the Mganga has many other implements of his craft. Some -prophesy by the motion of berries swimming in a cup full of water, which -is placed upon a low stool surrounded by four tails of the zebra or the -buffalo lashed to sticks planted upright in the ground. The Kasanda is a -system of folding triangles not unlike those upon which plaything -soldiers are mounted. Held in the right hand, it is thrown out, and the -direction of the end points to the safe and auspicious route; this is -probably the rudest appliance of prestidigitation. The shero is a bit of -wood about the size of a man’s hand, and not unlike a pair of bellows, -with a dwarf handle, a projection like a nozzle, and in the circular -centre a little hollow. This is filled with water, and a grain or -fragment of wood, placed to float, gives an evil omen if it tends -towards the sides, and favourable if it veers towards the handle or the -nozzle. The Mganga generally carries about with him to announce his -approach a kind of rattle called “sánje.” This is a hollow gourd of -pine-apple shape, pierced with various holes, prettily carved and half -filled with maize, grains, and pebbles; the handle is a stick passed -through its length and secured by cross-pins. - -The Mganga has many minor duties. In elephant hunts he must throw the -first spear and endure the blame if the beast escapes. He marks ivory -with spots disposed in lines and other figures, and thus enables it to -reach the coast without let or hindrance. He loads the kirangozi or -guide with charms and periapts to defend him from the malice which is -ever directed at a leading man, and sedulously forbids him to allow -precedence even to the Mtongi, the commander and proprietor of the -caravan. He aids his tribe by magical arts in wars, by catching a bee, -reciting over it certain incantations, and loosing it in the direction -of the foe, when the insect will instantly summon an army of its fellows -and disperse a host, however numerous. This belief well illustrates the -easy passage of the natural into the supernatural. The land being full -of swarms, and man’s body being wholly exposed, many a caravan has been -dispersed like chaff before the wind by a bevy of swarming bees. -Similarly in South Africa the magician kicks an ant-hill and starts -wasps which put the enemy to flight. And in the books of the Hebrews we -read that the hornet sent before the children of Israel against the -Amorite was more terrible than sword or bow. (Joshua, xxiv.) - -The several tribes in East Africa present two forms of government, the -despotic and the semi-monarchical. - -In the despotic races, the Wakilima or mountaineers of Chhaga, for -instance, the subjects are reduced to the lowest state of servility. -All, except the magicians and the councillors, are “Wasoro”--soldiers -and slaves to the sultan, mangi, or sovereign. The reader will bear in -mind that the word “sultan” is the Arabic term applied generically by -traders to all the reguli and roitelets, the chiefs and headmen, whose -titles vary in every region. In Uzaramo the Sultan is called p’hazi; in -Khutu, p’hazi or mundewa; in Usagara, mundewa; in Ugogo, mteme; in -Unyamwezi, mwami; in Ujiji and Karagwah, mkama. “Wazir” is similarly -used by the Arabs for the principal councillor or minister, whose -African name in the several tribes is mwene goha, mbáhá, mzágírá, -magáwe, mhángo, and muhinda. The elders are called throughout the -country Wagosi and Wányáp’hárá; they form the council of the chief. All -male children are taken from their mothers, are made to live together, -and are trained to the royal service, to guarding the palace, to tilling -the fields, and to keeping the watercourses in order. The despot is -approached with fear and trembling; subjects of both sexes must stand at -a distance, and repeatedly clap their palms together before venturing to -address him. Women always bend the right knee to the earth, and the -chief acknowledges the salutation with a nod. At times the elders and -even the women inquire of the ruler what they can do to please him: he -points to a plot of ground which he wishes to be cleared, and this -_corvée_ is the more carefully performed, as he fines them in a bullock -if a weed be left unplucked. In war female captives are sold by the -king, and the children are kept to swell the number of his slaves. None -of the Wasoro may marry without express permission. The king has -unlimited power of life and death, which he exercises without -squeamishness, and a general right of sale over his subjects; in some -tribes, as those of Karagwah, Uganda, and Unyoro, he is almost -worshipped. It is a capital offence to assume the name of a Sultan; even -a stranger so doing would be subjected to fines and other penalties. The -only limit to the despot’s power is the Ada, or precedent, the unwritten -law of ancient custom, which is here less mutable than the codes and -pandects of Europe. The African, like the Asiatic, is by nature a -conservative, at once the cause and the effect of his inability to rise -higher in the social scale. The king lives in a manner of barbarous -state. He has large villages crowded with his families and slaves. He -never issues from his abode without an armed mob, and he disdains to -visit even the wealthiest Arabs. The monarchical tribes are legitimists -of the good old school, disdaining a _novus homo_; and the consciousness -of power invests their princes with a certain dignity and majesty of -demeanour. As has been mentioned, some of the Sultans whose rule has the -greatest prestige, appear, from physical peculiarities, to be of a -foreign and a nobler origin. - -In the aristocratical or semi-monarchical tribes, as the Wanyamwezi, the -power of the Sultan depends mainly upon his wealth, importance, and -personal qualifications for the task of rule. A chief enabled to carry -out a “fist-right” policy will raise himself to the rank of a despot, -and will slay and sell his subjects without mercy. Though surrounded by -a council varying from two to a score of chiefs and elders, who are -often related or connected with him, and who, like the Arab shaykhs, -presume as much as possible in ordering this and forbidding that, he can -disregard and slight them. More often, however, his authority is -circumscribed by a rude balance of power; the chiefs around him can -probably bring as many warriors into the field as he can. When weak, the -sultan has little more authority than the patell of an Indian village or -the shaykh of a Bedouin tribe. Yet even when the chief cannot command in -his own clan, he is an important personage to travelling merchants and -strangers. He can cause a quarrel, an advance, or an assassination, and -he can quiet brawls even when his people have been injured. He can open -a road by providing porters, or bar a path by deterring a caravan from -proceeding, or by stopping the sale of provisions. Thus it is easy to -travel amongst races whose chiefs are well disposed to foreigners, and -the utmost circumspection becomes necessary when the headmen are -grasping and inhospitable. Upon the whole, the chiefs are wise enough -to encourage the visits of traders. - -A patriarchal or purely republican form of government is unknown in East -Africa. The Wasagara, it is true, choose their chief like the Banyai of -“Monomotapa,” but, once elected, he becomes a monarch. Loyalty--or, to -reduce it to its elements, veneration for the divinity that hedges in a -king--is a sentiment innate in the African mind. Man, however, in these -regions is not a political animal; he has a certain instinctive regard -for his chief and a respect for his elders. He ignores, however, the -blessings of duly limited independence and the natural classification of -humanity into superior and inferior, and honours--the cheap pay of -nations--are unknown. He acknowledges no higher and lower social strata. -His barbarism forbids the existence of a learned oligarchy, of an -educated community, or of a church and state, showing the origin of the -connection between the soul and body of society. Man being equal to man, -force being the only law and self the sole consideration, mutual -jealousy prevents united efforts and deadens all patriotic spirit. No -one cares for the public good; the welfare of the general must yield to -the most contemptible individual interests; civil order and security are -therefore unknown, and foreign relations cannot exist. - -In the lowest tribes the chieftain is a mere nonentity, “a Sultan,” as -the Arabs say, “within his own walls.” His subjects will boast, like the -Somal, that he is “_tanquam unus ex nobis_;” and they are so sensible of -restraint that “girdles and garters would be to them bonds and shackles” -metaphorically as well as literally. The position of these Sultans is -about equal to that of the diwans of the Mrima; their dignity is -confined to sitting upon a dwarf three-legged stool, to wearing more -brass wire than beads, and to possessing clothes a little better than -those of their subjects. The “regulus” must make a return present to -strangers after receiving their offerings, and in some cases must begin -with gifts. He must listen to the words of his councillors and elders, -who, being without salary, claim a portion of the presents and -treasure-trove, interfere on all occasions of blackmail, fines, and -penalties, demand from all petitioners gifts and bribes to secure -interest, and exert great influence over the populace. - -Legitimacy is the rule throughout the land, and the son, usually the -eldest, succeeds to the father, except amongst the Wasukuma of N. -Unyamwezi, where the line of descent is by the sister’s son--the “surer -side”--for the normal reason, to secure some of the blood royal for -ruling. Even the widows of the deceased become the property of the -successor. This truly African practice prevails also amongst the -Bachwana, and presents another of those curious points of resemblance -between the Hamite and Semite races which have induced modern -ethnologists to derive the Arab from Africa. The curious custom amongst -the Wanyamwezi of devising property to illegitimate children is not -carried out in the succession to power. Where there are many sons, all, -as might be expected, equally aspire to power; sometimes, however, of -two brothers, one will consent to hold authority under the other. In -several tribes, especially in Usukuma, the widow of a chief succeeds to -his dignity in default of issue. - -Punishments are simple in East Africa. The sar, vendetta or blood-feud, -and its consequence, the diyat or weregeld, exist in germ, unreduced, as -amongst the more civilised Arabs, to an artful and intricate system. -But these customs are founded, unlike ours, upon barbarous human nature. -Instinct prompts a man to slay the slayer of his kith and kin; the -offence is against the individual, not the government or society. He -must reason to persuade himself that the crime, being committed against -the law, should be left to the law for notice; he wants revenge, and he -cares nought for punishment or example for the prevention of crime. The -Sultan encourages the payment of blood-money to the relatives of the -deceased, or, if powerful enough, claims it himself, rather than that -one murder should lead to another, and eventually to a chronic state of -bloodshed and confusion. Thus, in some tribes the individual revenges -himself, and in others he commits his cause to the chief. Here he takes -an equivalent in cattle for the blood of a brother or the loss of a -wife; there he visits the erring party with condign punishment. The -result of such deficiency of standard is a want of graduation in -severity; a thief is sometimes speared and beheaded, or sold into -slavery after all his property has been extorted by the chief, the -councillors, and the elders, whilst a murderer is perhaps only fined. - -The land in East Africa is everywhere allodial; it does not belong to -the ruler, nor has the dawn of the feudal system yet arisen there. A -migratory tribe gives up its rights to the soil, contrary to the -mortmain system of the Arab Bedouins, and, if it would return, it must -return by force. The Sultan, however, exacts a fee from all immigrants -settling in his territory. - -The sources of revenue in East Africa are uncertain, desultory, and -complicated. The agricultural tribes pay yearly a small per centage of -grain; this, however, is the office of the women, who are expert in -fraud. Neither sowing nor harvest can take place without the chief’s -permission, and the issue of his order is regulated by his own -interests. Amongst the hunting tribes, slain elephants become the -hunter’s property, but the Sultan claims as treasure-trove a tusk of any -animal found wounded or dead in his dominions, and in all cases the -spoils of dead lions are crown property. The flesh of game is -distributed amongst the elders and the ruling family, who also assert a -claim to the cloth or beads purchased by means of the ivory from -caravans. Some have abditaria and considerable stores of the articles -most valued by barbarians. Throughout the slave-paths the chiefs have -learned to raise revenue from the slaves, who thus bribe them to forbear -from robbery. But whilst the stronger require large gifts without -return, the weaker make trifling presents, generally of cattle or -provisions, and expect many times the value in brass wire, cloth, and -beads. The stranger may refuse these offerings; it is, however, contrary -to custom, and as long as he can afford it he should submit to the -imposition. Fiscs and fines are alarmingly frequent. If the -monsoon-rains delay, the chief summons a Mganga to fix upon the -obstructor; he is at once slain, and his property is duly escheated. The -Sultan claims the goods and chattels of all felons and executed -criminals, even in the case of a servant put to death by his master. In -the more republican tribes the chief lives by the sweat of his slaves. -Briefly, East Africa presents an instructive study of human society in -its first stage after birth. - -I will conclude this uninteresting chapter--attribute its dulness, -gentle reader, to the effects of the climate and society of -Konduchi--with a subject which strikes home to the heart of every -Englishman, slavery. - -The origin of slavery in East Africa is veiled in the glooms of the -past. It is mentioned in the Periplus (chap. iii.), as an institution of -the land, and probably it was the result of the ancient trade with -southern Arabia. At present it is almost universal: with the exceptions -of the Wahinda, the Watosi, and the Wagogo, all the tribes from the -eastern equatorial coast to Ujiji and the regions lying westward of the -Tanganyika Lake may be called slave-races. An Arab, Msawahili, and even -a bondsman from Zanzibar, is everywhere called Murungwana or freeman. -Yet in many parts of the country the tribes are rather slave-importers -than exporters. Although they kidnap others, they will not sell their -fellows, except when convicted of crime--theft, magic, murder, or -cutting the upper teeth before the lower. In times of necessity, -however, a man will part with his parents, wives, and children, and when -they fail he will sell himself without shame. As has been observed, -amongst many tribes the uncle has a right to dispose of his nephews and -nieces. - -Justice requires the confession that the horrors of slave-driving rarely -meet the eye in East Africa. Some merchants chain or cord together their -gangs for safer transport through regions where desertion is at a -premium. Usually, however, they trust rather to soft words and kind -treatment; the fat lazy slave is often seen stretched at ease in the -shade, whilst the master toils in the sun and wind. The “property” is -well fed and little worked, whereas the porter, belonging to none but -himself, is left without hesitation to starve upon the road-side. The -relationship is rather that of patron and client than of lord and -bondsman; the slave is addressed as Ndugu-yango, “my brother,” and he is -seldom provoked by hard words or stripes. In fact, the essence of -slavery, compulsory unpaid labour, is perhaps more prevalent in -independent India than in East Africa; moreover, there is no adscriptus -glebæ, as in the horrid thraldom of Malabar. To this general rule there -are terrible exceptions, as might be expected amongst a people with -scant regard for human life. The Kirangozi, or guide, attached to the -Expedition on return from Ujiji, had loitered behind for some days -because his slave girl was too footsore to walk. When tired of waiting -he cut off her head, for fear lest she should become gratis another -man’s property. - -In East Africa there are two forms of this traffic, the export and the -internal trade. For the former slaves are collected like ivories -throughout the length and breadth of the land. They are driven down from -the principal depôts, the island of Kasenge, Ujiji, Unyanyembe, and -Zungomero to the coast by the Arab and Wasawahili merchants, who -afterwards sell them in retail at the great mart, Zanzibar. The internal -trade is carried on between tribe and tribe, and therefore will long -endure. - -The practice of slavery in East Africa, besides demoralising and -brutalising the race, leads to the results which effectually bar -increase of population and progress towards civilisation. These are -commandos, or border wars, and intestine confusion. - -All African wars, it has been remarked, are for one of two objects, -cattle-lifting or kidnapping. Some of the pastoral tribes--as the -Wamasai, the Wakwafi, the Watuta, and the Warori--assert the theory that -none but themselves have a right to possess herds, and that they -received the gift directly from their ancestor who created cattle; in -practice they covet the animals for the purpose of a general gorge. -Slaves, however, are much more frequently the end and aim of feud and -foray. The process of kidnapping, an inveterate custom in these lands, -is in every way agreeable to the mind of the man-hunter. A “_multis -utile bellum_,” it combines the pleasing hazards of the chase with the -exercise of cunning and courage; the battue brings martial glory and -solid profit, and preserves the barbarian from the listlessness of life -without purpose. Thus men date from foray to foray, and pass their days -in an interminable blood-feud and border war. A poor and powerful chief -will not allow his neighbours to rest wealthier than himself; a quarrel -is soon found, the stronger attacks the weaker, hunts and harries his -cattle, burns his villages, carries off his subjects and sells them to -the first passing caravan. The inhabitants of the land have thus become -wolves to one another; their only ambition is to dispeople and destroy, -and the blow thus dealt to a thinly populated country strikes at the -very root of progress and prosperity. - -As detrimental to the public interests as the border wars is the -intestine confusion caused by the slave trade. It perpetuates the vile -belief in Uchawi or black magic: when captives are in demand, the -criminal’s relations are sold into slavery. It affords a scope for the -tyranny of a chief, who, if powerful enough, will enrich himself by -vending his subjects in wholesale and retail. By weakening the tie of -family, it acts with deadly effect in preventing the increase of the -race. - -On the coast and in the island of Zanzibar the slaves are of two -kinds--the Muwallid or domestic, born in captivity, and the wild slave -imported from the interior. - -In the former case the slave is treated as one of the family, because -the master’s comfort depends upon the man being contented; often also -his sister occupies the dignified position of concubine to the head of -the house. These slaves vary greatly in conduct. The most tractable are -those belonging to the Diwans and the Wasawahili generally, who treat -them with the utmost harshness and contempt. The Arabs spoil them by a -kinder usage; few employ the stick, the salib, or cross--a forked pole -to which the neck and ankles are lashed--and the makantale or stocks, -for fear of desertion. Yet the slave if dissatisfied silently leaves the -house, lets himself to another master, and returns after perhaps two -years’ absence as if nothing had occurred. Thus he combines the -advantages of freedom and slavery. Moreover, it is a proverb among the -Arabs that a slave must desert once in his life, and he does so the more -readily as he betters his condition by so doing. The worst in all points -are those belonging to the Banyans, the Indians, and other European -subjects; they know their right to emancipation, and consult only their -own interests and inclinations. The Muwallid or domestic slave is also -used like the Pombeiro of West Africa. From Unyamwezi and Ujiji he is -sent to traffic in the more dangerous regions--the master meanwhile -dwelling amongst his fellow countrymen in some comfortable Tembe. This -proceeding has greatly injured the commerce of the interior, and -necessitates yearly lengthening journeys. The slave intrusted with cloth -and beads suddenly becomes a great man; he is lavish in supporting the -dignity of a fundi or fattore, and consulting nothing but his own -convenience, he will loiter for six months at a place where he has been -sent for a week. Thus it is that ivory sold in Unyamwezi but a dozen -years ago at 10 lbs. for 1 lb. of beads now fetches nearly weight for -weight. And this is a continually increasing evil. No caravan, however, -can safely traverse the interior without an escort of slave-musketeers. -They never part with their weapons, even when passing from house to -house, holding that their lives depend upon their arms; they beg, -borrow, or steal powder and ball; in fact they are seldom found unready. -They will carry nothing but the lightest gear, the master’s -writing-case, bed, or praying-mat; to load them heavily would be to -ensure desertion. Contrary to the practice of the free porter, they -invariably steal when they run away; they are also troublesome about -food, and they presume upon their weapons to take liberties with the -liquor and the women of the heathen. - -The imported slaves again are of two different classes. Children are -preferred to adults; they are Islamised and educated so as to resemble -the Muwallid, though they are even somewhat less tame. Full-grown serfs -are bought for predial purposes; they continue indocile, and alter -little by domestication. When not used by the master they are left to -plunder or to let themselves out for food and raiment, and when dead -they are cast into the sea or into the nearest pit. These men are the -scourge of society; no one is safe from their violence; and to preserve -a garden or an orchard from the depredations of the half-starved -wretches, a guard of musketeers would be required. They are never armed, -yet, as has been recounted, they have caused at Zanzibar servile wars, -deadly and lasting as those of ancient Rome. - -Arabs declare that the barbarians are improved by captivity--a partial -theory open to doubt. The servum pecus retain in thraldom that wildness -and obstinacy which distinguish the people and the lower animals of -their native lands; they are trapped, but not tamed; they become -captives, but not civilised. However trained, they are probably the -worst servants in the world; a slave-household is a model of discomfort. -The wretches take a trouble and display an ingenuity in opposition and -disobedience, in perversity, annoyance, and villany, which rightly -directed would make them invaluable. The old definition of a slave still -holds good--“an animal that eats as much and does as little as -possible.” Clumsy and unhandy, dirty and careless, he will never labour -unless ordered to do so, and so futile is his nature that even the -inducement of the stick cannot compel him to continue his exertions; a -whole gang will barely do the work of a single servant. He “has no end,” -to use the Arab phrase: that is to say, however well he may begin, he -will presently tire of his task; he does not and apparently he will not -learn; his first impulse, like that of an ass, is not to obey; he then -thinks of obeying; and if fear preponderate he finally may obey. He must -deceive, for fraud and foxship are his force; when detected in some -prodigious act of rascality, he pathetically pleads, “Am I not a slave?” -So wondrous are his laziness and hate of exertion, that despite a high -development of love of life he often appears the most reckless of -mortals. He will run away from the semblance of danger; yet on a journey -he will tie his pipe to a leaky keg of gunpowder, and smoke it in that -position rather than take the trouble to undo it. A slave belonging to -Musa, the Indian merchant at Kazeh, unwilling to rise and fetch a pipe, -opened the pan of his musket, filled it with tobacco and fire, and -beginning to inhale it from the muzzle blew out his brains. Growing -confident and impudent from the knowledge of how far he may safely go, -the slave presumes to the utmost. He steals instinctively, like a -magpie: a case is quoted in which the gold spangles were stripped from -an officer’s sword-belt whilst dining with the Prince of Zanzibar. The -slave is almost always half-naked; whatever clothes he obtains from the -master are pawned or sold in the bazar; hence he must pilfer and plunder -almost openly for the means of gratifying his lowest propensities, -drinking and intrigue. He seems to acquire from captivity a greater -capacity for debauchery than even in his native wilds; he has learned -irregularities unknown to his savage state: it is the brutishness of -negroid nature brought out by the cheap and readily attainable pleasures -of semi-civilisation. Whenever on moonlight nights the tapping of the -tomtom responds to the vile squeaking of the fife, it is impossible to -keep either a male or female slave within doors. All rendezvous at the -place, and, having howled and danced themselves into happiness, conclude -with a singularly disorderly scene. In the town of Zanzibar these -“Ngoma” or dances were prohibited for moral reasons by the late Sayyid. -The attachment of a slave to his master is merely a development of -selfishness; it is a greater insult to abuse the Ahbab (patroon), than, -according to Eastern fashion, the father and mother, the wife and -sister. No slave-owner, however, praises a slave or relies upon his -fidelity. The common expression is, “There is no good in the bondsman.” - -Like the Somal, a merry and light-hearted race in foreign countries, but -rendered gloomy and melancholy by the state of affairs at home, the -negroid slaves greatly improve by exportation: they lose much of the -surliness and violence which distinguish them at Zanzibar, and are -disciplined into a kind of respect for superiors. Thus, “Seedy Mubarak” -is a prime favourite on board an Indian steamer; he has also strength -and courage enough to make himself respected. But “Seedy Mubarak” has -tasted the intoxicating draught of liberty, he is in high good humour -with himself and with all around him, he is a slave merely in origin, he -has been adopted into the great family of free men, and with it he has -identified all his interests. Eastern history preserves instances of the -valour and faithfulness of bondsmen, as the annals of the West are fond -of recording the virtues of dogs. Yet all the more civilised races have -a gird at the negro. In the present day the Persians and other Asiatics -are careful, when bound on distant or dangerous journeys, to mix white -servants with black slaves; they hold the African to be full of strange -childish caprices, and to be ever at heart a treacherous and -bloodthirsty barbarian. Like the “bush-negroes” of Surinam, once so -dangerous to the Dutch, the runaway slaves from Zanzibar have formed a -kind of East African Liberia, between Mount Yombo and the Shimba section -of the Eastern Ghauts. They have endangered the direct caravan-road from -Mombasah to Usumbara; and though trespassing upon the territory of the -Mwasagnombe, a sub-clan of the Wadigo, and claimed as subjects by -Abdullah, the son of Sultan Kimwere, they have gallantly held their -ground. According to the Arabs there is another servile republic about -Gulwen, near Brava. Travellers speak with horror of the rudeness, -violence, and cruelty of these self-emancipated slaves; they are said to -be more dangerous even than the Somal, who for wanton mischief and -malice can be compared with nothing but the naughtiest schoolboys in -England. - -The serviles at Zanzibar have played their Arab masters some notable -tricks. Many a severe lord has perished by the hand of a slave. Several -have lost their eyes by the dagger’s point during sleep. Curious tales -are told of ingenious servile conspiracy. Mohammed bin Sayf, a Zanzibar -Arab, remarkable for household discipline, was brought to grief by -Kombo, his slave, who stole a basket of nutmegs from the Prince, and, -hiding them in his master’s house, denounced him of theft. Fahl bin -Nasr, a travelling merchant, when passing through Ugogo, nearly lost his -life in consequence of a slave having privily informed the people that -his patroon had been killing crocodiles and preserving their fat for -poison. In both these cases the slaves were not punished; they had -acted, it was believed, according to the true instincts of servile -nature, and chastisement would have caused desertion, not improvement. - -As regards the female slaves, the less said about them, from regard to -the sex, the better: they are as deficient in honour as in honesty, in -modesty and decorum as in grace and beauty. No man, even an Arab, deems -the mother of his children chaste, or believes in the legitimacy of his -progeny till proved. - -Extensive inquiries into the subject lead to a conviction that it is -impossible to offer any average of the price of slaves. Yet the question -is of importance, as only the immense profit causes men thus to overlook -all considerations of humanity. A few general rules may be safely given. -There is no article, even horse-flesh, that varies so much in -market-value as the human commodity: the absolute worth is small -compared with the wants of the seller and the requirements and the means -of the purchaser. The extremes range from six feet of unbleached -domestics or a few pounds of grain in time of famine, to seventy -dollars, equal to 15_l._ The slaves are cheapest in the interior, on -account of the frequency of desertion: about Unyamwezi they are dearer, -and most expensive in the island of Zanzibar. At the latter place -during the last few years they have doubled in price: according to the -Arabs, who regard the abolition of slavery with feelings of horror, this -increase results from the impediments thrown in the way by the English; -a more probable explanation may be found in the greater cheapness of -money. At Zanzibar the price of a boy under puberty is from fifteen to -thirty dollars. A youth till the age of fifteen is worth a little less. -A man in the prime of life, from twenty-five to forty, fetches from -thirteen to twenty dollars; after that age he may be bought from ten to -thirteen. Educated slaves, fitted for the work of factors, are sold from -twenty-five to seventy dollars, and at fancy prices. The price of -females is everywhere about one-third higher than that of males. At -Zanzibar the ushur or custom-dues vary according to the race of the -slave: the Wahiao, Wangindo, and other serviles imported from Kilwa, pay -one dollar per head, from the Mrima or maritime regions two dollars, and -from Unyamwezi, Ujiji, and the rest of the interior three dollars. At -the central depôt, Unyanyembe, where slaves are considered neither cheap -nor dear, the value of a boy ranges between eight and ten doti or double -cloths; a youth from nine to eleven; a man in prime, from five to ten; -and past his prime from four to six. In some parts of the interior men -are dearer than children under puberty. In the cheapest places, as in -Karagwah and Urori, a boy costs three shukkahs of cloth, and three fundo -or thirty strings of coral beads; a youth from ten to fifteen fundo; a -man in prime from eight to ten; and no one will purchase an old man. -These general notes must not, however, be applied to particular tribes: -as with ivory and other valuable commodities, the amount and the -description of the circulating medium vary at almost every march. - -It was asserted by the late Colonel Hamerton, whose local knowledge was -extensive, that the average of yearly import into the island of Zanzibar -was 14,000 head of slaves, the extremes being 9000 and 20,000. The loss -by mortality and desertion is 30 per cent. per annum; thus, the whole -gang must be renewed between the third and fourth year. - -By a stretch of power slavery might readily be abolished in the island -of Zanzibar, and in due time, after the first confusion, the measure -would doubtless be found as profitable as it is now unpalatable to the -landed proprietors, and to the commercial body. A “sentimental -squadron,” like the West African, would easily, by means of steam, -prevent any regular exportation to the Asiatic continent. But these -measures would deal only with effects, leaving the causes in full -vigour; they would strike at the bole and branches, the root retaining -sufficient vitality to resume its functions as soon as relieved of the -pressure from without. Neither treaty nor fleet would avail permanently -to arrest the course of slavery upon the seaboard, much less would it -act in the far realms of the interior. At present the African will not -work: the purchase of predial slaves to till and harvest for him is the -great aim of his life. When a more extensive intercourse with the -maritime regions shall beget wants which compel the barbarian, now -contented with doing nothing and having nothing, to that individual -exertion and that mutual dependency which render serfdom a moral -impossibility in the more advanced stages of human society,--when man, -now valueless except to himself, shall become more precious by his -labour than by his sale, in fact an article so expensive that strangers -cannot afford to buy him,--then we may expect to witness the extinction -of the evil. Thus, and thus only can “Rachel, still weeping for her -children,” in the evening of her days, be made happy. - -Meanwhile, the philanthropist, who after sowing the good seed has sense -and patience to consign the gathering of the crop to posterity, will -hear with pleasure that the extinction of slavery would be hailed with -delight by the great mass throughout the length and breadth of Eastern -Africa. This people, “robbed and spoiled” by their oppressors, who are -legionary, call themselves “the meat,” and the slave-dealers “the -knife:” they hate and fear their own demon Moloch, but they lack -unanimity to free their necks from his yoke. Africa still “lies in her -blood,” but the progress of human society, and the straiter bonds which -unite man with man, shall eventually rescue her from her old pitiable -fate. - -[Illustration: The Bull-headed Mabruki.] - -[Illustration: African standing position.] - - - - -CONCLUSION. - - -On the 9th February the Battela and the stores required for our trip -arrived at Konduchi from Zanzibar, and the next day saw us rolling down -the coast, with a fair fresh breeze, towards classic Kilwa, the Quiloa -of De Gama, of Camoens, and of the Portuguese annalists. I shall reserve -an account of this most memorable shore for a future work devoted -especially to the seaboard of Zanzibar--coast and island:--in the -present tale of adventure the details of a _cabotage_ would be out of -place. Suffice it to say that we lost nearly all our crew by the -cholera, which, after ravaging the eastern coast of Arabia and Africa, -and the islands of Zanzibar and Pemba, had almost depopulated the -southern settlements on the mainland. We were unable to visit the course -of the great Rufiji River, a counterpart of the Zambezi in the south, -and a water-road which appears destined to become the highway of nations -into Eastern equatorial Africa. No man dared to take service on board -the infected vessel; the Hindu Banyans, who directed the Copal trade of -the river regions aroused against us the chiefs of the interior; -moreover, the stream was in flood, overflowing its banks, and its line -appeared marked by heavy purple clouds, which discharged a deluge of -rain. Convinced that the travelling season was finished, I turned the -head of the Battela northwards, and on the 4th March, 1859, after a -succession of violent squalls and pertinacious calms, we landed once -more upon the island of Zanzibar. - -Sick and way-worn I entered the house connected in memory with an old -friend, not without a feeling of sorrow for the change--I was fated to -regret it even more. The excitement of travel was succeeded by an utter -depression of mind and body: even the labour of talking was too great, -and I took refuge from society in a course of French novels _à vingt -sous la pièce_. - -Yet I had fallen upon stirring times: the little state, at the epoch of -my return, was in the height of confusion. His Highness the Sayyid -Suwayni, Suzerain of Maskat, seizing the pretext of a tribute owed to -him by his cadet brother of Zanzibar, had embarked, on the 11th -February, 1859, a host of Bedouin brigands upon four or five -square-rigged ships and many Arab craft: with this power he was -preparing a hostile visit to the island. The Baloch stations on the -mainland were drained of mercenaries, and 7000 muskets, with an amount -of ammunition, which rendered the town dangerous, were served out to -slaves and other ruffians. Dows from Hadramaut brought down armed -adventurers, who were in the market to fight for the best pay. The -turbulent Harisi chiefs of Zanzibar were terrified into siding with his -Highness the Sayyid Majid by the influence of H. M. consul, Captain -Rigby. But the representatives of the several Christian powers could not -combine to preserve the peace, and M. Ladislas Cochet, Consul de France, -an uninterested spectator of the passing events, thought favourably of -his Highness the Sayyid Suwayni’s claim, he believed that the people if -consulted would prefer the rule of the elder brother, and he could not -reconcile his conscience to the unscrupulous means--the _force -majeure_--which his opponent brought into the field. The Harisi, -therefore, with their thousands of armed retainers--in a single review I -saw about 2200 of them--preserved an armed neutrality, which threatened -mischief to the weaker of the rival brothers: trade was paralysed, the -foreign merchants lost heavily, and no less than eighty native vessels -were still at the end of the season due from Bombay and the north. To -confuse confusion, several ships collecting negro “emigrants” and “free -labourers,” _per fas et nefas_, even kidnapping them when necessary, -were reported by the Arab local authorities to be anchored and to be -cruising off the coast of Zanzibar. - -After a fortnight of excitement and suspense, during which the wildest -rumours flew through the mouths of men, it was officially reported that -H. M.’s steamer _Punjaub_, Captain Fullerton, H.M.I.N., commanding, had, -under orders received from the government of Bombay, met his Highness -the Sayyid Suwayni off the eastern coast of Africa and had persuaded him -to return. - -Congratulations were exchanged, salutes were fired, a few Buggalows -belonging to the enemy’s fleet, which was said to have been dispersed by -a storm, dropped in and were duly captured, the negroes drank, sang, and -danced for a consecutive week, and with the least delay armed men poured -in crowded boats from the island towards their several stations on the -mainland. But the blow had been struck, the commercial prosperity of -Zanzibar could not be retrieved during the brief remnant of the season, -and the impression that a renewal of the attempt would at no distant -time ensure similar disasters seemed to be uppermost in every man’s -mind. - -His Highness the Sayyid Majid had honoured me with an expression of -desire that I should remain until the expected hostilities might be -brought to a close. I did so willingly in gratitude to a prince to whose -good-will my success was mainly indebted. But the consulate was no -longer what it was before. I felt myself too conversant with local -politics, and too well aware of what was going on to be a pleasant -companion to its new tenant. At last, on the 15th March, when concluding -my accounts with Ladha Damha, the collector of customs at Zanzibar, that -official requested me, with the usual mystery, to be the bearer of -despatches, privately addressed by his prince, to the home government. I -could easily guess what they contained. Unwilling, however, to undertake -such a duty when living at the consulate, and seeing how totally opposed -to official _convenance_ such a procedure was, I frankly stated my -objections to Ladha Damha, and repeated the conversation to Captain -Rigby. As may be imagined, this little event did not diminish his desire -to see me depart. - -Still I was unwilling to leave the field of my labours while so much -remained to be done. As my health appeared gradually to return under the -influence of repose and comparative comfort, I would willingly have -delayed at the island till the answer to an application for leave of -absence, and to a request for additional funds could be received from -the Government of Bombay and the Royal Geographical Society. But the -evident anxiety of my host to disembarrass himself of his guest, and the -nervous impatience of my companion--who could not endure the thought of -losing an hour--compelled me, sorely against my wish, to abandon my -intentions. - -Said bin Salim, the Ras Kafilah, called twice or thrice at the -consulate. I refused, however, to see him, and explained the reason to -Captain Rigby. That gentleman agreed with me at the time that the Arab -had been more than sufficiently rewarded by the sum advanced to him by -Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton: but--perhaps he remembers the cognomen by which -he was known in days of yore amongst his juvenile _confrères_ at -Addiscombe?--he has since thought proper to change his mind. The Jemadar -and the Baloch attended me to the doorway of the prince’s darbar: I -would not introduce them to their master or to the consul, as such -introduction would have argued myself satisfied with their conduct, nor -would I recommend them for promotion or reward. Ladha Damha put in a -faint claim for salary due to the sons of Ramji; but when informed of -the facts of the case he at once withdrew it, and I heard no more of it -at Zanzibar. As regards the propriety of these severe but equitable -measures, my companion was, I believe, at that time of the same opinion -as myself: perhaps Captain Speke’s prospect of a return to East Africa, -and of undertaking a similar exploration, have caused him since that -epoch to think, and to think that he then thought, otherwise. - -The report of the success of the _Punjaub’s_ mission left me at liberty -to depart. With a grateful heart I bade adieu to a prince whose kindness -and personal courtesy will long dwell in my memory, and who at the -parting interview had expressed a hope to see me again, and had offered -me a passage homeward in one of his ships-of-war. At the time, however, -a clipper-built barque, the _Dragon of Salem_, Captain M‘Farlane -commanding, was discharging cargo in the harbour, preparatory to sailing -with the S.W. monsoon for Aden. The captain consented to take us on -board: Captain Rigby, however, finding his boat too crowded, was -compelled to omit accompanying us--a little mark of civility not unusual -in the East. His place, however, was well filled up by Seedy Mubarak -Bombay, whose honest face appeared at that moment, by contrast, -peculiarly attractive. - -On the 22nd March, 1859, the clove-shrubs and the cocoa-trees of -Zanzibar again faded from my eyes. After crossing and re-crossing three -times the tedious line, we found ourselves anchored, on the 16th April, -near the ill-omened black walls of the Aden crater. - -The crisis of my African sufferings had taken place during my voyage -upon the Tanganyika Lake: the fever, however, still clung to me like the -shirt of Nessus. Mr. Apothecary Frost, of Zanzibar, had advised a -temporary return to Europe: Dr. Steinhaeuser, the civil surgeon, Aden, -also recommended a lengthened period of rest. I bade adieu to the -coal-hole of the East on the 28th April, 1859, and in due time greeted -with becoming heartiness the shores of my native land. - -[Illustration: The Elephant Rock (Ακρωτηριον Ελεφας, Periplus II. راس -الفيل), seen from fifteen miles at sea, direction S.W.] - - -FINIS CORONAT OPUS! - -[Illustration: - - MAP OF THE ROUTES - between - ZANZIBAR AND THE GREAT LAKES - IN - =EASTERN AFRICA= - in 1857, 1858 & 1859, - by - R. F. Burton - - _London, Longman & Co._ - - _Engraved by Edwd. Weller, Red Lion Square._] - - - - -APPENDICES. - - -APPENDIX I. - -COMMERCE, IMPORTS AND EXPORTS. - -Commerce has for ages been a necessity to the East African, who cannot -be contented without his clothing and his ornaments, which he receives -in barter for the superfluity of his country. Against its development, -however, serious obstacles have hitherto interposed. On the seaboard and -in the island the Banyans, by monopolizing the import traffic, do injury -to the internal trade. In the interior the Wasawahili excite, with all -the animosity of competition, the barbarians against Arab interlopers, -upon the same sordid and short-sighted principle that the latter display -when opposing the ingress of Europeans. Finally, the Arabs, according to -their own confession, have by rapacity and imprudence impoverished the -people without enriching themselves. Their habit of sending fundi on -trading trips is, as has been explained, most prejudicial both to seller -and buyer; the prices of provisions as well as of merchandise increase -almost visibly; and though the evil might be remedied by a little -combination, solidarity of interests being unknown, that little is -nowhere found. All, Banyans, Wasawahili, and Arabs, like semi-civilised -people generally, abhor and oppose a free trade, which they declare -would be as injurious to themselves as doubtless advantageous to the -country. Here, as in Europe, the battle of protection has still to be -fought; and here, unlike Europe, the first step towards civilisation, -namely, the facility of intercourse between the interior and the coast, -has yet to be created. - -The principal imports into East Africa are domestics and piece goods, -plain and unbleached cotton cloths, beads, and brass wire. The minor -items for the native population are prints, coloured cloths Indian and -Arabian, broadcloth, calicos, caps, ironware, knives and needles, iron -and copper wires for ornaments, and in some regions trinkets and -ammunition. A small trade, chiefly confined to the Arabs, is done in -provisions, spices, drugs, and other luxuries. - -The people of East Africa when first visited were satisfied with the -worst and flimsiest kaniki or indigo-dyed Indian cotton. This they -presently gave up for the “merkani,” American “domestics,” or unbleached -shirting and sheeting, which now supplies the markets from Abyssinia to -the Mozambique. But the wild men are losing predilection for a stuff -which is neither comfortable nor durable, and in many regions the -tribes, satisfied with goat-skins and tree-barks, prefer to invest their -capital in the more attractive and durable beads and wire. It would -evidently be advantageous if England or her Indian colonies would -manufacture an article better suited to the wants of the country than -that at present in general use; but, under existing circumstances, there -is little probability of this being done. - -The “domestics” from the mills near Salem, Lawrence, Manchester, and -others, called in the island of Zanzibar wilaiti (“foreign”), or khami -(the “raw”), is known throughout the inner country as “merkani” or -American. These unbleached cottons are of two kinds: the wilaiti mpana -(broad) or sheeting, sold in pieces about 30 yards long and 36 to 38 -inches broad, and the wilaiti kabibu (narrow) or shirting, of the same -length but less in breadth, from 32 to 34 inches. In the different mills -the lengths vary, the extremes being 24 and 36 yards. The cloth measures -in use throughout the country are the following:-- - - 2½ Fitr (short spans) = 1 Mukono, Ziraá, or cubit. - 2 Mikono, or Ziraá (cubits) = 1 Half-Shukkah (_i.e._ 3 feet of - domestics). - 2 Half-Shukkah = 1 Shukkah, Mwenda, Upande, or Lupande, - the Portuguese Braça (_i.e._ 6 feet of - domestics). - 2 Shukkahs = 1 Tobe (Ar. Saub), Doti, Unguo ya ku - shona (washing cloth), or simply Unguo - (12 ft.) - 2 Doti = 1 Takah. - 7 to 11 Doti = 1 Jurah or Gorah, the piece. - -The fitr or short span is from the extended end of the forefinger to the -thumb; the shibr or long span is from the thumb to the little finger; of -these, two go to that primitive measure the cubit or elbow length. Two -cubits in long measure compose the wár or yard, and two wár the ba’a or -fathom. - -The price of domestics greatly varies in dear years and cheap years. At -Zanzibar it sometimes falls to 2 dols. per gorah or piece, and it often -rises to 2·75 dols. When the dollar is alluded to, the Maria Theresa -crown is always meant. The price in Bombay is from 213 to 215 Co.’s rs. -per cent. At Zanzibar the crown is divided like the rupee into 16 annas, -and each anna into 9 or 8 pice; of these the full number is 128 to the -dollar, but it is subject to incessant fluctuations. Merchants usually -keep accounts in dollars and cents. The Arabs divide the dollar as -follows:-- - - 4 Ruba baisah (the “pie”) = Baisah (in the plur. Biyas), the - Indian Paisa. - 8 Biyas = 1 Anna. - 2 Annas, or 16 Pice = 1 Tumun or eighth. - 4 Annas, or 32 Pice, or 25 Cents = 1 Ruba, Rubo or Quarter-dollar, the - Indian Paola. - 2 Ruba, or 64 Pice, or 50 Cents = 1 Nusu or Half-dollar. - 2 Nusu = 1 Dollar. - -The Spanish or pillar dollar is called by the Arabs abu madfa, and by -the Wasawahili riyal mazinga (the “cannon dollar”). In the East -generally it is worth from 6 to 8 per cent. more than the Maria Theresa, -but at Zanzibar, not being a legal tender, the value is unfixed. The -only subdivision of this coin generally known is the seringe, pistoline, -or “small quarter dollar,” which is worth only 10 pice and 2 pies, -whereas the ruba, or quarter of the Maria Theresa, is 32 pice. The -French 5-franc piece, raised in value by a somewhat arbitrary process -from 114 to 110 per 100 “piastres d’Espagne” by M. Guillain in 1846, has -no currency, though the Banyans attempt to pass them off upon strangers -at 108 for 100 Maria Theresas. In selling, the price ranges from 15 to -22 shukkahs, each of which, assuming the dollar or German crown to be -worth 4_s._ 2_d._, will be worth upon the island from 6_d._ to 8_d._ The -shukkah is, as has been said, the shilling and florin of East Africa, -and it is assuredly the worst circulating medium ever invented by -mankind. The progress of its value as it recedes from the seaboard, and -other details concerning it, which may be useful to future travellers, -have been treated of in the preceding pages. - -First in importance amongst the cloths is the kaniki or kiniki; its -names and measures are made to differ by the traders according to the -fashion of semi-civilised people, who seek in confusion and intricacy -facilities for fraud and chicanery. The popular divisions are-- - - 4 Mikono, Ziraá, or cubits = 1 Shukkah. - 2 Shukkah = 1 Doti or Tobe. - 2 Doti = 1 Jurah, Gorah, or Takah. - 2 Takah = 1 Korjah, Kori, or score. - -Of this indigo-dyed cotton there are three kinds: the best, which is -close and neatly made, is seldom exported from Zanzibar. The gorah or -piece of 16 cubits, 45 inches in breadth, is worth about 1 dollar. The -common variety, 40 inches broad, supplied to the markets of the -interior, costs about half that sum; and the worst kind, which averages -in breadth 36 inches, represents a little less. The value of the korjah -or score fluctuates between 8 and 13 dollars. Assuming, therefore, the -average at 10 dollars, and the number of shukkahs contained in the gorah -at 80, the price of each will represent 6_d._ Thus it is little inferior -in price to the merkani or domestics when purchased upon the seaboard: -its progress of value in the interior, however, is by no means in -proportion, and by some tribes it is wholly rejected. - -The lucrative bead trade of Zanzibar is now almost entirely in the hands -of the Banyan capitalists, who, by buying up ships’ cargoes, establish -their own prices, and produce all the inconveniences of a monopoly. In -laying in a stock the traveller must not trust himself to these men, who -seize the opportunity of palming off the waste and refuse of their -warehouses: he is advised to ascertain from respectable Arab merchants, -on their return from the interior, the varieties requisite on the line -of march. Any neglect in choosing beads, besides causing daily -inconvenience, might arrest an expedition on the very threshold of -success: towards the end of these long African journeys, when the real -work of exploration commences, want of outfit tells fatally. The -bead-monopolisers of Zanzibar supplied the East African expedition with -no less than nine men’s loads of the cheapest white and black beads, -some of which were thrown away, as no man would accept them at a gift. -Finally, the utmost economy must be exercised in beads: apparently -exhaustless, a large store goes but a little way: the minor purchases of -a European would average 10 strings or necklaces per diem, and thus a -man’s load rarely outlasts the fifth week. - -Beads, called by the Arabs kharaz, and by the Wasawahili ushanga, are -yearly imported into East Africa by the ton--in quantities which excite -the traveller’s surprise that so little is seen of them. For centuries -there has been a regular supply of these ornaments; load after load has -been absorbed; but although they are by no means the most perishable of -substances, and though the people, like the Indians, carry their wealth -upon their persons, not a third of the population wears any considerable -quantity. There are about 400 current varieties, of which each has its -peculiar name, value, and place of preference; yet, being fabricated at -a distance from the spot, they lack the perpetual change necessary to -render them thoroughly attractive. In Urori and Ubena, antiquated marts, -now nearly neglected, there are varieties highly prized by the people: -these might be imitated with advantage. - -For trading purposes a number of different kinds must be laid in,--for -travellers, the coral or scarlet, the pink porcelain, and the large blue -glass bead, are more useful than other colours. Yet in places even the -expensive coral bead has been refused. - -Beads are sold in Zanzibar island by the following weights: - - 16 Wakiyyah (ounces, each = 1 dollar in = 1 Ratl (or pound; in the - weight) plural, Artál). - 3 Ratl, or 48 Wakiyyah = 1 Man (Maund). - 12 Amnan (Maunds) = 1 Frasilah (35 to 36 - pounds). - 60 Artál (pounds) = 1 Frasilah. - 20 to 22 Farásilah (according to the - article purchased) = 1 Kandi (Candy). - -The Zanzibar lb. is the current English avoirdupois. The Arabs use a -ratl without standard, except that it should be equal to sixteen Maria -Theresa dollars. According to M. Guillain, it is four grammes (each -22·966 grs. avoir.) less than the English lb., and when reduced to seven -grammes it is considered under weight. The “man” or maund is the general -measure: there are, however, three varieties. The “man” of Zanzibar -consists of three ratl, that of Maskat contains nine, and that of Oman -generally 0·25 less than the Zanzibar maund. The frasilah (in the plur. -farásilah) may roughly be assumed as one-third of the cwt.: the word -probably gave rise to the English coffee-weight called a “frail.” - -The measures of beads are as complicated and arbitrary as those of -cloth. The following are the terms known throughout the interior, but -generally unintelligible at Zanzibar, where this merchandise is sold by -weight: - - 4 Bitil (each a single length from - index tip to wrist) = 1 Khete. - 10 Khete (each a doubled length round - the throat, or round the thumb, to - the elbow-bone) = 1 Fundo (_i.e._ a “knot.”) - 10 Fundo (in the plural, Mafundo) = 1 Ugoyye, or Ugoe. - 10 Ugoyye (or 60 Fundo) = 1 Miranga, or Gana. - -Of these bead measures there are local complications. In the central -regions, for instance, the khete is of half size, and the fundo consists -of five, not of ten khete. - -Beads are purchased for the monopolisers of Zanzibar unstrung, and -before entering the country it is necessary to measure and prepare the -lengths for barter. The string, called “ut’hembwe” (in the plural -“t’hembwe”), is generally made of palm-fibre, and much depends for -successful selling, especially in the larger kinds of beads, upon the -regularity and attractiveness of the line. It will be remembered that -beads in East Africa represent the copper and smaller silver coins of -European countries; it is, however, impossible to reduce the khete, the -length most used in purchases, to any average: it varies from a -halfpenny to three-pence. The average value of the khete in Zanzibar -coin is three pice, and about 100 khete are included in the man or -maund. The traveller will find the bitil used as our farthing, the khete -is the penny, the shukkah kaniki is the sixpence and shilling, the -shukkah merkani and the fundo represent the halfcrown and crown, whilst -the Barsati cloth, the kitindi or coil bracelet, and the larger measures -of beads, form the gold money. The following varieties are imported in -extensive outfits. Nos. 1, 2, and 3, are the expensive kinds; Nos. 4, 5, -and 6, are in local demand, cheap in the maritime, and valuable in the -central regions, and the rest are the more ordinary sorts. All those -that are round and pierced are called indifferently by the Arabs -madruji, or the “drilled.” - -1. Samsam (Ar.) sámesáme (Kis.), kimara-p’hamba (food-finishers), joho -(scarlet cloth), and kifungá-mgi (town-breakers, because the women are -mad for them), are the various names for the small coral bead, a scarlet -enamelled upon a white ground. They are known at Zanzibar as -kharaz-kartasi--paper beads--because they are sent into the country -ready strung, and packed in paper parcels, which ought to weigh 4 pounds -each, but are generally found to vary from 8 to 10 fundo or knots. Of -this bead there are 15 several sizes, and the value of the frasilah is -from 13 to 16 dollars at Zanzibar. In Unyamwezi, where the sámesáme is -in greatest demand, one fundo is equivalent to 1 shukkah merkani, and 6 -khete to the shukkah kaniki. - -2. Next in demand to the sámesáme, throughout the country, except at -Ujiji, where they lose half their value, are the pink porcelain, called -gulabi (the rosy), or máguru lá nzige (locust’s feet). The price in -Zanzibar varies from 12 to 15 dollars per frasilah. - -3. The blue porcelain, called in Venice ajerino, and in East Africa -langiyo or murtutu (blue vitriol) is of three several sizes, and the -best is of the lightest colour. The larger variety, called langiyo -mkuba, fetches, at Zanzibar, from 6 to 12 dollars per frasilah, and the -p’heke, or smaller, from 7 to 9 dollars. In Usagara and Unyamwezi, where -from 3 to 4 fundo are equivalent to the shukkah merkani, and 1 to 2 to -the shukkah kaniki, it is used for minor purchases, where the sámesáme -would be too valuable. It is little prized in other parts, and between -Unyamwezi and Ujiji it falls to the low level of the white porcelain. - -4. A local variety, current from Msene to the Tanganyika Lake, where, in -the heavier dealings, as the purchase of slaves and ivory, a few strings -are always required to cap the bargain, is called mzizima, mtunda, -balghami, and jelabi, the ringel perle of Germany. It is a large flat -bead of glass; the khete contains about 150, and each item acts as a -copper coin. The mzizima is of two varieties; the more common is a dark -blue, the other is of a whitish and opaline tint. At Zanzibar the -frasilah costs from 7 to 9 dollars. In Unyamwezi 3 fundo are equivalent -to 1 shukkah merkani, and 1 fundo to 1 shukkah kaniki. - -5. Another local variety is the balghami mkuba, popularly called -sungomaji, a bead made at Nuremberg (?). It is a porcelain, about the -size of a pigeon’s egg, and of two colours, white and light blue. The -sungomaji, attached to a thin cord or twine, is worn singly or in -numbers as an ornament round the neck, and the people complain that the -polish soon wears off. At Zanzibar the price per 1000 is from 15 to 20 -dollars, but it is expected to decline to 10 dollars. This bead is -useful in purchasing ivory in Ugogo and Unyamwezi, and in hiring boats -at Ujiji: its relative value to cloth is 19 per shukkah merkani, and 15 -per shukkah kaniki. - -6. The sofi, called in Italian cannettone, resembles bits of broken -pipe-stems, about two-thirds of an inch in length. It is of various -colours, white, brick-red, and black. Each bead is termed masaro, and is -used like pice in India: of these the khete contains from 55 to 60. The -price varies, at Zanzibar, from 2 to 3 dollars per frasilah; in the -interior, however, the value greatly increases, on account of -insufficient importation. This bead, in 1858, was in great demand -throughout Usagara, Unyamwezi, and the western regions, where it was as -valuable as the sámesáme. Having neglected to lay in a store at -Zanzibar, the East African Expedition was compelled to exchange cloth -for it at Msene and Ujiji, giving 1 shukkah merkani for 30 to 35 khete, -and 1 shukkah kaniki for 15 to 25. In Ujiji, however, many of the -purchases were rejected because the bits had become small by wear, or -had been chipped off by use. - -7. The staple of commerce is a coarse porcelain bead, of various -colours, known in Zanzibar by the generic name of háfizi. There are -three principal kinds. The khanyera or ushanga waupa (white beads) are -common throughout the country. The average value, at Zanzibar, is 6 -dollars per frasilah: in Unyamwezi, 4 fundo were equivalent to the -shukkah merkani, and 2 to 3 to the kaniki; but the people, glutted with -this bead (as many as 20,000 strings were supplied to the East African -Expedition by the Banyans of Zanzibar), preferred 1 khete of sámesáme to -3 of khanyera. The kidunduguru is a dull brick-red bead, worth at -Zanzibar from 5 to 7 dollars per frasilah, but little prized in the -interior, where it is derisively termed khanyera ya mk’hundu. Another -red variety of háfizi is called merkani: it is finely made to resemble -the sámesáme, and costs from 7 to 11 dollars per frasilah. Of this bead -there are four several subdivisions. The uzanzawírá or samuli -(ghee-coloured) is a bright yellow porcelain worth, at Zanzibar, from 7 -to 9 dollars per frasilah. It is in demand throughout Chhaga and the -Masai country, but is rarely seen on the central line. - -8. The sukoli are orange-coloured or rhubarb-tinted porcelain, which -average, at Zanzibar, from 7 to 9 dollars. They are prized in Usagara -and Ugogo, but are little worn in other places. - -9. The nílí (green), or ukutí wa mnazi (coco-leaves), are little beads -of transparent green glass; they are of three sizes, the smallest of -which is called kíkítí. The Zanzibar price is from 6 to 11 dollars. In -Ujiji they are highly valued, and are readily taken in small quantities -throughout the central line. - -10. The ghubari (dust-coloured), or nya kifu (?) is a small -dove-coloured bead, costing, in Zanzibar, from 7 or 8 dollars. It is -used in Uzaramo, but its dulness of aspect prevents it being a -favourite. - -11. The lungenya or lak’hio is a coarse red porcelain, valued at 5 to 6 -dollars in Zanzibar, and now principally exported to Uruwwa and the -innermost regions of Central Africa. - -12. The bubu (ububu?), also called ukumwi and ushanga ya vipande, are -black Venetians, dull dark porcelain, ranging, at Zanzibar, from 5 to 7 -dollars. They are of fourteen sizes, large, medium, and small; the -latter are the most valued. These beads are taken by the Wazaramo. In -East Usagara and Unyamwezi they are called khuni or firewood, nor will -they be received in barter except when they excite a temporary caprice. - -The other beads, occasionally met with, are the sereketi, ovals of white -or garnet-red, prized in Khutu; choroko or mágiyo, dull green -porcelains; undriyo maupe (?), mauve-coloured, round or oval; undriyo -mausi (?), dark lavender; asmani, sky-coloured glass; and pusange, blue -Bohemian glass beads, cut into facets. The people of the coast also -patronise a variety of large fancy articles, flowered, shelled, and -otherwise ornamented; these, however, rarely find their way into the -interior. - -After piece goods and beads, the principal articles of traffic, -especially on the northern lines and the western portion of the central -route, are masango (in the singular sango), or brass wires, called by -the Arabs hajúlah. Nos. 4 or 5 are preferred. They are purchased in -Zanzibar, when cheap, for 12 dollars, and when dear for 16 dollars per -frasilah. When imported up country the frasilah is divided into three or -four large coils, called by the Arabs daur, and by the Africans khata, -for the convenience of attachment to the banghy-pole. Arrived at -Unyanyembe they are converted by artizans into the kitindi, or -coil-bracelets, described in the preceding pages. Each daur forms two or -three of these bulky ornaments, of which there are about 11 to the -frasilah, and the weight is thus upwards of three pounds. The charge for -the cutting, cleaning, and twisting into shape is about 1 doti of -domestics for 50 kitindis. The value of the kitindi, throughout -Unyamwezi, in 1858, was 1 doti merkani; at Ujiji, where they are in -demand for slaves and ivory, the price was doubled. Thus, the kitindi, -worth one dollar each--when cheap, nine are bought for ten dollars--in -Zanzibar, rises to five dollars in the lake regions. Kitindi were -formerly made of copper wire; it has fallen into disuse on account of -its expense,--at Zanzibar from 15 to 20 dollars per frasilah. Large iron -wires, called senyenge, are confined to Ugogo and the northern countries -inhabited by the Wamasai. The East Africans have learned to draw fine -wire, which they call uzi wa shaba (brass thread); they also import from -the coast Nos. 22 to 25, and employ them for a variety of decorative -purposes, which have already been alluded to. The average price of this -small wire at Zanzibar is 12 dollars per frasilah. As has been -mentioned, sat or zinc, called by the Africans bati (tin), is imported -by the Wajiji. - -The principal of the minor items are coloured cloths, called by the -people “cloths with names:” of these, many kinds are imported by every -caravan. In some regions, Ugogo for instance, the people will not sell -their goats and more valuable provisions for plain piece-goods; their -gross and gaudy tastes lead them to despise sober and uniform colours. -The sultans invariably demand for themselves and their wives showy -goods, and complete their honga or blackmail with domestics and -indigo-dyed cottons, which they divide amongst their followers. Often, -too, a bit of scarlet broadcloth, thrown in at the end of a lengthened -haggle, opens a road and renders impossibilities possible. - -The coloured cloths may be divided into three kinds,--woollens, cottons, -and silks mixed with cotton. Of the former, the principal varieties now -imported are Joho or broadcloth; of the second, beginning with the -cheapest, are Barsati, Dabwani, Jamdani, Bandira, Shít (chintz), -Khuzarangi, Ukaya, Sohari, Shali, Taujiri, Msutu, Kikoi, and Shazar or -Mukunguru; the mixed and most expensive varieties are the Subai, Dewli, -Sabuni, Khesi, and Masnafu. Travelling Arabs usually take a piece of -baftah or white calico as kafan or shrouds for themselves or their -companions in case of accidents. At Zanzibar the value of a piece of 24 -yds. is 1 dollar 25 cents. Blankets were at first imported by the Arabs, -but being unsuited to the climate and to the habits of the people they -soon became a drug in the market. - -Joho (a corruption of the Arabic Johh) is a coarse article, either blue -or scarlet. As a rule, even Asiatics ignore the value of broadcloth, -estimating it, as they do guns and watches, by the shine of the -exterior: the African looks only at the length of the pile and the depth -of the tint. The Zanzibar valuation of the cheap English article is -usually 50 cents (2_s._ 1_d._) per yard; in the interior rising rapidly -through double and treble to four times that price, it becomes a present -for a prince. At Ujiji and other great ivory-marts there is a demand for -this article, blue as well as red; it is worn, like the shukkah merkani, -round the loins by men and round the bosom by women, who, therefore, -require a tobe or double length. At Unyanyembe there are generally -pauper Arabs or Wasawahili artisans who can fashion the merchants’ -supplies into the kizbao or waistcoats affected by the African chiefs in -imitation of their more civilised visitors. - -Of the second division the cheapest is the Barsati, called by the -Africans kitambi; it is a blue cotton cloth, with a broad red stripe -extending along one quarter of the depth, the other three-quarters being -dark blue; the red is either of European or Cutch dye. The former is -preferred upon the coast for the purchase of copal. Of this Indian stuff -there are three kinds, varying in size, colour, and quality; the -cheapest is worth at Zanzibar (where, however, like dabwani, it is -usually sold by the gorah of two uzar or loin-cloths) from 5 to 7 -dollars per score; the second 10 dollars 50 cents; and the best 14 to 15 -dollars. The barsati in the interior represents the doti or tobe of -Merkani. On the coast it is a favourite article of wear with the poorer -freemen, slaves, and women. Beyond the maritime regions the chiefs will -often refuse a barsati, if of small dimensions and flimsy texture. -Formerly, the barsati was made of silk, and cost 7 dollars per -loin-cloth. Of late years the Wanyamwezi have taken into favour the -barsati or kitambi banyani; it is a thin white long cloth, called in -Bombay kora (Corah, or cotton piece-goods), with a narrow reddish border -of madder or other dye stamped in India or at Zanzibar. The piece of 39 -yards, which is divided into 20 shukkah, costs at Bombay 4·50 Co.’s rs.; -at Zanzibar 2 dollars 50 cents; and the price of printing the edge is 1 -dollar 75 cents. - -The dabwani is a kind of small blue and white check made at Maskat; one -fourth of its breadth is a red stripe, edged with white and yellow. This -stuff, which from its peculiar stiffening of gum appears rather like -grass-cloth than cotton, is of three kinds: the cheapest, dyed with -Cutch colours, is much used in the far interior; it costs at Zanzibar 12 -dols. 50 cents per score of pieces, each two and a half yards long;--the -medium quality, employed in the copal trade of the coast, is stained -with European dye, and superior in work; the score of pieces, each 3 -yards long, costs 30 dols.;--and the best, which is almost confined to -the island of Zanzibar, ranges from 40 to 45 dols. per kori. The dabwani -is considered in the interior nearly double the value of the barsati, -and it is rarely rejected unless stained or injured. - -The jamdani is a sprigged or worked muslin imported from India: though -much prized for turbans by the dignitaries of the maritime races, it is -rarely carried far up the country. At Zanzibar the price of 10 yards is -1 dol., and the piece of 20 lengths, each sufficient for a turban, may -be purchased for 15 dols. - -The bandira (flag stuff) is a red cotton bunting imported from Bombay. -It is prized in the interior by women. At Zanzibar the price of this -stuff greatly varies; when cheap the piece of 28 yards may be obtained -for 2 dols. 50 cents, when dear it rises to 3 dols. 50 cents. It is sold -by gorah of 7½ shukkahs. - -Shít, or chintz, is of many different kinds. The common English is a red -cotton, striped yellow and dark green; it fetches from 1 dol. 50 cents -to 2 dols. per piece of 28 yards, and is little prized in the interior. -Those preferred, especially in Unyamwezi and Ujiji, are the French and -Hamburg; the former is worth at Zanzibar from 4 dols. 50 cents per piece -of 35 yards, to 5 dols. 50 cents per gorah of 10 shukkahs, and the -latter from 5 dols. to 5 dols. 50 cents. The most expensive is the -“ajemi,” that used by the Persians as lining for their lambswool caps; -the price is from 50 cents to 1 dol. per yard, which renders it a scarce -article even in Zanzibar island. - -The khuzarangi, a European cotton dyed a reddish nankeen, with -pomegranate rind and other colouring matters, at Maskat, is almost -confined to the Arabs, who make of it their normal garment, the long and -sleeved shirt called el dishdashah, or in Kisawahili khanzu. It is the -test of foreign respectability and decorum when appearing amongst the -half-clad African races, and the poorest of pedlars will always carry -with him one of these nightgown-like robes. The price of the ready-made -dishdashah ranges from 50 cents to 2 dols. 50 cents, and the uncut piece -of 16 yards costs from 2 dols. to 2 dols. 50 cents. - -The ukaya somewhat resembles the kaniki, but it is finer and thinner. -This jaconnet, manufactured in Europe and dyed in Bombay, is much used -by female slaves and concubines as head veils. The price of the piece of -20 yards, when of inferior quality, is 2 dollars 50 cents; it ranges as -high as 12 dollars. - -The sohari, or ridia, made at Maskat, is a blue and white check with a -red border about 5 inches broad, with smaller stripes of red, blue, and -yellow; the ends of the piece are checks of a larger pattern, with red -introduced. There are many varieties of this cloth, which, considered as -superior to the dabwani as the latter is superior to the barsati, forms -an acceptable present to a chief. The cheapest kind, much used in -Unyamwezi, costs 16 dollars 25 cents per kori, or score. The higher -sorts, of which however only 1 to 40 of the inferior is imported into -the country, ranges from 22 to 30 dollars. - -The shali, a corruption of the Indian shal (shawl), is a common English -imitation shawl pattern of the poorest cotton. Bright yellow or red -grounds, with the pear pattern and similar ornaments, are much prized by -the chiefs of Unyamwezi. The price of the kori, or score, is 25 dollars. - -The taujiri (from the Indian taujír burá) is a dark blue cotton stuff, -with a gaudy border of madder-red or tumeric-yellow, the former colour -preferred by the Wahiao, the latter by the Wanyamwezi. The price per -score varies from 8 to 17 dollars. - -The msutu is a European cotton dyed at Surat, indigo blue upon a -madder-red ground, spotted with white. This print is much worn by Arab -and Wasawahili women as a nightdress and morning wrapper; in the -interior it becomes a robe of ceremony. At Zanzibar the piece of 20 -lengths, each 2·25 yards long and 40 inches broad (two breadths being -sown together), costs 19 dollars. The kisutu, an inferior variety, -fetches, per kori of pieces 2·50 yards long, 13 dollars. - -The kikoi is a white cotton, made at Surat, coarse and thick, with a -broad border of parallel stripes, red, yellow, and indigo blue: per kori -of pieces 2 yards long, and sewn in double breadths, the price is 5 -dollars. A superior variety is made principally for the use of women, -with a silk border, which costs from 1 to 4 dollars. - -The shazar, called throughout the interior mukunguru, is a Cutch-made -cotton plaid, with large or small squares, red and white, or black and -blue; this cloth is an especial favourite with the Wamasai tribes. The -score of pieces, each 2 yards, costs 6 dollars 25 cents. There is a -dearer variety, of which each piece is 3 yards long, costing 16 dollars -per kori, and therefore rarely sold. - -Of the last division of “cloths with names,” namely those of silk and -cotton mixed, the most popular is the subaí. It is a striped stuff, with -small checks between the lines, and with a half-breadth of border, a -complicated pattern of red, black, and yellow. This cloth is used as an -uzar, or loin-cloth, by the middle classes of Arabs; the tambua, taraza, -or fringe, is applied to the cloth with a band of gold thread at -Zanzibar, by Wasawahili. The subai, made at Maskat of Cutch cotton, -varies greatly in price: the cheapest, of cotton only, may be obtained -for 2 dollars; the medium, generally preferred for presents to great -chiefs, is about 5 dollars 50 cents; whilst the most expensive, inwoven -with gold thread, ranges from 8 to 30 dollars. - -The dewli is the Indian lungi, a Surat silk, garnished with a border of -gold thread and a fringe at Zanzibar. It is a red, yellow, or green -ground, striped in various ways, and much prized for uzar. The price of -the cheap piece of 3·50 yards is 7 dollars, besides the fringe, which is -2 dollars more; the best, when adorned with gold, rise to 80 dollars. - -The sabuni uzar, made in Maskat, is a silk-bordered cotton, a small blue -and white check; the red and yellow edging which gives it its value is -about one-fifth of its breadth. The score of pieces, each 2·50 yards -long, varies from 25 to 50 dollars; the more expensive, however, rarely -find their way into the interior. - -The khesi is a rare importation from Bombay, a scarlet silk, made at -Tannah; the piece sold at Bombay for 10 Co.’s rs. fetches at Zanzibar 5 -dols. 50 cents to 6 dollars; this kind is preferred by the Wanyamwezi -chiefs; when larger, and adorned with gold stripes, it rises to 35 Co.’s -rs., or 19 dollars, and is prized by the Banyans and Hindis of Zanzibar. - -The masnafu is rare like the khesi; it is a mixed silk and cotton cloth, -of striped pattern, made at Maskat. The cheapest is a piece of 1·75 -yards, costing from 2 to 5 dollars, and highly regarded in Unyamwezi; -the larger kinds, of 2·50 yards, rise from 5 to 6 dollars, and the Arabs -will pay from 20 to 25 dollars for those worked with gold thread. - -These notes upon the prices of importations into Central Africa rest -upon the authority of the Hindus, and principally of Ladha Damha, the -collector of customs at Zanzibar. Specimens of the cloths were deposited -with the Royal Geographical Society of London, and were described by the -kindness of Mr. Alderman Botterill, F.R.G.S. - -Remain for consideration the minor and local items of traffic. - -The skull-caps are of two kinds. One is a little fez, locally called -kummah. It is made in France, rarely at Bagdad, and sells at Zanzibar -for 5 dols. 50 cents to 9 dollars per dozen. The cheaper kind is -preferred in Unyamwezi; it is carried up from the coast by Arab slaves -and Wasawahili merchants, and is a favourite wear with the sultan and -the mtongi. At Unyanyembe the price of the fez rises to 1 dollar. The -“alfiyyah” is the common Surat cap, worked with silk upon a cotton -ground; it is affected by the Diwans and Shomwis of the coasts. The -“vis-gol,” or 20-stitch, preferred for importation, cost 8 dollars per -score; the “tris-gol,” or 30-stitch, 13 dollars; and the “chalis-gol,” -or 40-stitch, 18 dollars. - -Besides these articles, a little hardware finds its way into the -country. Knives, razors, fish-hooks, and needles are useful, especially -in the transit of Uzaramo. As an investment they are useless; the -people, who make for themselves an article which satisfies their wants, -will not part with valuables to secure one a little better. They have -small axes and sharp spears, consequently they will not buy dear -cutlery; they have gourds, and therefore they care little for glass and -china. The Birmingham trinkets and knicknacks, of which travellers take -large outfits to savage and barbarous countries, would in East Africa be -accepted by women and children as presents, but unless in exceptional -cases they would not procure a pound of grain; mirrors are cheap and -abundant at Zanzibar, yet they are rarely imported into the interior. -The people will devise new bijouterie for themselves, but they will not -borrow it from strangers. In the maritime regions, where the tribes are -more civilised, they will covet such foreign contrivances, as dollars, -blankets, snuff-boxes, and tin cylinders which can be converted into -tobacco pouches: the Wanyamwezi would not regard them. Similarly in -Somaliland, a case of Birmingham goods carried through the country -returned to Aden almost full. - -Coffee, sugar, and soap may generally be obtained in small quantities -from the Arabs of Unyanyembe. At Zanzibar the price of common coffee is -3 dollars 75 cents, and of Mocha 5 dollars 50 cents per frasilah. Sugar -is of three kinds: the buluji, or loaf-sugar, imported from America, -averages 6 annas; sukkari za mawe, or sugar-candy, fetches upon the -island 5 dollars 50 cents per frasilah; and the bungálá, or sukkari za -mchanga (brown Bengal sugar), costs 3 dollars 50 cents; gur, or -molasses, sells at Zanzibar for 1 dollar 25 cents per frasilah. Soap is -brought to Zanzibar island by the Americans, French, and India -merchants. - -The other articles of importation into Zanzibar, which, however, so -rarely find their way into the interior, that they do not merit detailed -notice, are--rice and other cereals from Bombay and Western India; -shipping materials, canvas, rigging, hempen cord, planks and boards, -paint, pitch, turpentine, linseed-oil, bees’-wax, and tar, from America -and India; metals from Europe and India; furniture from Europe and -America, China and Bombay; carpets and rugs from Turkey and Persia; mats -from Madagascar; made-up clothes from Maskat and Yemen; glassware from -Europe and America; pottery, paper, and candles from Europe and Bombay; -kuzah (water-jars) from the Persian Gulf; woods and timber from -Madagascar, the Mozambique, and the coast as far north as Mombasah; -skins and hides from the Banadir; salt-fish (shark and others) from -Oman, Hazramaut, and the Benadir; brandy, rum, peppermint, eau de -Cologne, syrups and pickles, tobacco, cigars, and tea, from Bombay, -France, and the Mauritius; rose-water from the Gulf; attar of rose and -of sandal from Bombay; dates, almonds, and raisins from Arabia and the -Gulf; gums and ambergris from Madagascar, the Mozambique, and the -“Sayf-Tawil” (the long low coast extending from Ras Awath, in N. lat. 5° -33′, to Ras el-Khayl, N. lat. 7° 44′); aloes and dragon’s-blood from -Socotra; incense, gum Arabic, and myrrh from the Somali country and the -Benadir; turmeric, opium, ginger, nutmegs, colombo-root, cardamoms, -cinnamon, aniseed, camphor, benzoin, assafœtida, saltpetre, potash, blue -vitriol, alum, soda, saffron, garlic, fenugreek, and other drugs and -spices from Bombay and Western India. - -The staple articles of the internal trade throughout the regions -extending from the coast of the Indian Ocean to the lakes of Central -Africa are comprised in slaves and cattle, salt, iron, tobacco, mats and -strainers, and tree-barks and ropes. Of these, all except salt have been -noticed in detail in the preceding pages. - -Salt is brought down during the season from East Arabia to Zanzibar by -Arab dows, and is heaped up for sale on a strip of clear ground under -the eastern face of the gurayza or fort. It is of two kinds: the fine -rock salt sells at 6 annas per frasilah, and the inferior, which is -dark and sandy, at about half that price. On the coast the principal -ports and towns supply themselves with sea-salt evaporated in the rudest -way. Pits sunk near the numerous lagoons and backwaters allow the saline -particles to infiltrate; the contents, then placed in a pierced earthen -pot, are allowed to strain into a second beneath. They are inspissated -by boiling, and are finally dried in the sun, when the mass assumes the -form of sand. This coarse salt is sold after the rains, when it abounds, -for its weight of holcus; when dear, the price is doubled. In the -interior there are two great markets, and the regularity of -communication enables the people to fare better as regards the luxury -than the more civilised races of Abyssinia and Harar, where of a -millionnaire it is said, “he eateth salt.” An inferior article is -exported from Ugogo, about half-way between the East Coast and the -Tanganyika Lake. A superior quality is extracted from the pits near the -Rusugi River in Western Uvinza, distant but a few days from Ujiji. For -the prices and other conditions of sale the reader is referred to -Chapters V. and VII. - -The subject of exports will be treated of at some length; it is not only -interesting from its intrinsic value, but it is capable of considerable -development, and it also offers a ready entrance for civilisation. The -African will never allow the roads to be permanently closed--none but -the highly refined amongst mankind can contemplate with satisfaction a -life of utter savagery. The Arab is too wise to despise “protection,” -but he will not refuse to avail himself of assistance offered by -foreigners when they appear as capitalists. Hitherto British interests -have been neglected in this portion of the African continent, and the -name of England is unknown in the interior. Upon the island of Zanzibar, -in 1857-8, there was not an English firm; no line of steamers connected -it with India or the Cape, and, during the dead season, nine months have -elapsed before the answer to a letter has been received from home. - -The reader is warned that amongst the East Africans the “bay o -shara”--barter or round trade--is an extensive subject, of which only -the broad outlines and general indications can be traced. At present, -the worthlessness of time enables both buyer and seller to haggle _ad -libitum_, and the superior craft of the Arab, the Banyan, the Msawahili, -and the more civilised slave, has encumbered with a host of difficulties -the simplest transactions. It is easy to be a merchant and to buy -wholesale at Zanzibar, but a lengthened period of linguistic study and -of conversancy with the habits and customs of the people must be spent -by the stranger who would engage in the task of retail-buying in the -interior. - -The principal article of export from the Zanzibar coast is copal, from -the interior ivory. The minor items are hippopotamus teeth, rhinoceros -horns, cattle, skins, hides, and horns, the cereals, timbers, and -cowries. Concerning the slaves, who in East Africa still form a -considerable item of export, details have been given in the preceding -pages. The articles which might be exploited, were means of carriage -supplied to the people, are wax and honey, orchella-weed, fibrous -substances, and a variety of gums. - -The copal of Zanzibar, which differs materially from that of the Western -Coast of Mexico and the cowaee (Australian dammar?) of New Zealand, is -the only article convertible into the fine varnishes now so extensively -used throughout the civilised world. - -As the attention of the Expedition was particularly directed to the -supplies of copal in East Africa by Dr. G. Buist, LL.D., Secretary to -the Bombay branch of the R. G. Society, many inquiries and visits to the -copal diggings were made. In the early part of 1857 specimens of the -soils and subsoils, and of the tree itself, were forwarded to the -Society. - -The copal-tree is called by the Arabs shajar el sandarús, from the -Hindostani chhandarus; by the Wasawahili msandarusi; and by the Wazaramo -and other maritime races mnángú. The tree still lingers on the island -and the mainland of Zanzibar. It was observed at Mombasah, Saadani, -Muhonyera, and Mzegera of Uzaramo; and was heard of at Bagamoyo, -Mbuamaji, and Kilwa. It is by no means, as some have supposed, a shrubby -thorn; its towering bole has formed canoes 60 feet long, and a single -tree has sufficed for the kelson of a brig. The average size, however, -is about half that height, with from 3 to 6 feet girth near the ground; -the bark is smooth, the lower branches are often within reach of a man’s -hand, and the tree frequently emerges from a natural ring-fence of dense -vegetation. The trunk is of a yellow-whitish tinge, rendering the tree -conspicuous amid the dark African jungle-growths; it is dotted with -exudations of raw gum, which is found scattered in bits about the base; -and it is infested by ants, especially by a long ginger-coloured and -semi-transparent variety, called by the people maji-m’oto, or “boiling -water,” from its fiery bite. The copal wood is yellow tinted, and the -saw collects from it large flakes; when dried and polished it darkens to -a honey-brown, and, being well veined, it is used for the panels of -doors. The small and pliable branches, freshly cut, form favourite -“bakur,” the kurbaj or bastinadoing instrument of these regions; after -long keeping they become brittle. The modern habitat of the tree is the -alluvial sea-plain and the anciently raised beach: though extending over -the crest of the latter formation, it ceases to be found at any distance -beyond the landward counterslope, and it is unknown in the interior. - -The gum copal is called by the Arabs and Hindus sandarus, by the -Wasawahili sandarusi, and by the Wanyamwezi--who employ it like the -people of Mexico and Yucatan as incense in incantations and -medicinings--sirokko and mámnángu. This semi-fossil is not “washed out -by streams and torrents,” but “crowed” or dug up by the coast clans and -the barbarians of the maritime region. In places it is found when -sinking piles for huts, and at times it is picked up in spots overflowed -by the high tides. The East African seaboard, from Ras Gomani in S. lat. -3° to Ras Delgado in 10° 41′, with a medium depth of 30 miles, may -indeed be called the “copal coast;” every part supplies more or less the -gum of commerce. Even a section of this line, from the mouth of the -Pangani River to Ngao (Monghou), would, if properly exploited, suffice -to supply all our present wants. - -The Arabs and Africans divide the gum into two different kinds. The raw -copal (copal vert of the French market) is called sandarusi za miti, -“tree copal,” or chakází, corrupted by the Zanzibar merchant to -“jackass” copal. This chakazi is either picked from the tree or is -found, as in the island of Zanzibar, shallowly imbedded in the loose -soil, where it has not remained long enough to attain the phase of -bitumenisation. To the eye it is smoky or clouded inside, it feels soft, -it becomes like putty when exposed to the action of alcohol, and it -viscidises in the solution used for washing the true copal. Little -valued in European technology, it is exported to Bombay, where it is -converted into an inferior varnish for carriages and palanquins, and to -China, where the people have discovered, it is said, for utilising it, a -process which, like the manufacture of rice paper and of Indian ink, -they keep secret. The price of chakazi varies from 4 to 9 dollars per -frasilah. - -The true or ripe copal, properly called sandarusi, is the produce of -vast extinct forests, overthrown in former ages either by some violent -action of the elements, or exuded from the roots of the tree by an -abnormal action which exhausted and destroyed it. The gum, buried at -depths beyond atmospheric influence, has, like amber and similar -gum-resins, been bitumenised in all its purity, the volatile principles -being fixed by moisture and by the exclusion of external air. That it is -the produce of a tree is proved by the discovery of pieces of gum -embedded in a touchwood which crumbles under the fingers; the -“goose-skin,” which is the impress of sand or gravel, shows that it was -buried in a soft state; and the bees, flies, gnats, and other insects -which are sometimes found in it delicately preserved, seem to disprove a -remote geologic antiquity. At the end of the rains it is usually carried -ungarbled to Zanzibar. When garbled upon the coast it acquires an -additional value of 1 dollar per frasilah. The Banyan embarks it on -board his own boat, or pays a freight varying from 2 to 4 annas, and the -ushur or government tax is 6 annas per frasilah with half an anna for -charity. About 8 annas per frasilah are deducted for “tare and tret.” At -Zanzibar, after being sifted and freed from heterogeneous matter, it is -sent by the Banyan retailer to the Indian market or sold to the foreign -merchant. It is then washed in solutions of various strengths: the lye -is supposed to be composed of soda and other agents for softening the -water; its proportions, however, are kept a profound secret. European -technologists have, it is said, vainly proposed theoretical methods for -the delicate part of the operation which is to clear the goose-skin of -dirt. The Americans exported the gum uncleaned, because the operation is -better performed at Salem. Of late years they have begun to prepare it -at Zanzibar, like the Hamburg traders. When taken from the solution, in -which from 20 to 37 per cent. is lost, the gum is washed, sun-dried for -some hours, and cleaned with a hard brush, which must not, however, -injure the goose skin; the dark “eyes,” where the dirt has sunk deep, -are also picked out with an iron tool. It is then carefully garbled with -due regard to colour and size. There are many tints and peculiarities -known only to those whose interests compel them to study and to observe -copal, which, like cotton and Cashmere shawls, requires years of -experience. As a rule, the clear and semi-transparent are the best; then -follow the numerous and almost imperceptible varieties of dull white, -lemon colour, amber yellow, rhubarb yellow, bright red, and dull red. -Some specimens of this vegetable fossil appear by their dirty and -blackened hue to have been subjected to the influence of fire; others -again are remarkable for a tender grass-green colour. According to some -authorities, the gum, when long kept, has been observed to change its -tinge. The sizes are fine, medium, and large, with many subdivisions; -the pieces vary from the dimensions of small pebbles to 2 or 3 ounces; -they have been known to weigh 5 lbs., and, it is said, at Salem a piece -of 35 lbs. is shown. Lastly, the gum is thrown broadcast into boxes and -exported from the island. The Hamburg merchants keep European coopers, -who put together the cases whose material is sent out to them. It is -almost impossible to average the export of copal from Zanzibar. -According to the late Lieutenant-Colonel Hamerton, it varies from -800,000 to 1,200,000 lbs. per annum, of which Hamburg absorbs 150,000 -lbs., and Bombay two lacs’ worth. The refuse copal used formerly to -reach India as “packing,” being deemed of no value in commerce; of late -years the scarcity of the supply has rendered merchants more careful. -The price, also, is subject to incessant fluctuations, and during the -last few years it has increased from 4 dol. 50 cents to a maximum of 12 -dollars per frasilah. - -According to the Arabs, the redder the soil the better is the copal. The -superficies of the copal country is generally a thin coat of white sand, -covering a dark and fertilising humus, the vestiges of decayed -vegetation, which varies from a few inches to a foot and a half in -depth. In the island of Zanzibar, which produces only the chakazi or raw -copal, the subsoil is a stiff blue clay, the raised sea-beach, and the -ancient habitat of the coco. It becomes greasy and adhesive, clogging -the hoe in its lower bed; where it is dotted with blood-coloured -fragments of ochreish earth, proving the presence of oxidising and -chalybeate efficients, and with a fibrous light-red matter, apparently -decayed coco-roots. At a depth of from 2 to 3 feet water oozes from the -greasy walls of the pit. When digging through these formations, the gum -copal occurs in the vegetable soil overlying the clayey subsoil. - -A visit to the little port of Saadani afforded different results. After -crossing 3 miles of alluvial and maritime plain, covered with a rank -vegetation of spear grass and low thorns, with occasional mimosas and -tall hyphænas, which have supplanted the coco, the traveller finds a few -scattered specimens of the living tree and pits dotting the ground. The -diggers, however, generally advance another mile to a distinctly formed -sea-beach, marked with lateral bands of quartzose and water-rolled -pebbles, and swelling gradually to 150 feet from the alluvial plain. The -thin but rich vegetable covering supports a luxuriant thicket, the -subsoil is red and sandy, and the colour darkens as the excavation -deepens. After 3 feet, fibrous matter appears, and below this copal, -dusty and comminuted, is blended with the red ochreish earth. The guides -assert that they have never hit upon the subsoil of blue clay, but they -never dig lower than a man’s waist, and the pits are seldom more than 2 -feet in depth. Though the soil is red, the copal of Saadani is not -highly prized, being of a dull white colour; it is usually designated as -“chakazi.” - -On the line inland from Bagamoyo and Kaole the copal-tree was observed -at rare intervals in the forests, and the pits extended as far as -Muhonyera, about 40 miles in direct distance from the coast. The produce -of this country, though not first-rate, is considered far superior to -that about Saadani. - -Good copal is dug in the vicinity of Mbuamaji, and the diggings are said -to extend to 6 marches inland. The Wadenkereko, a wild tribe, mixed with -and stretching southwards of the Wazaramo, at a distance of two days’ -journey from the sea, supply a mixed quality, more often white than red. -The best gums are procured from Hunda and its adjacent districts. -Frequent feuds with the citizens deter the wild people from venturing -out of their jungles, and thus the Banyans of Mbuamaji find two small -dows sufficient for the carriage of their stores. At that port the price -of copal varies from 2 dol. 50 cents to 3 dol. per frasilah. - -The banks of the Rufiji River, especially the northern district of -Wánde, supply the finest and best of copal; it is dug by the Wawande -tribe, who either carry it to Kikunya and other ports, or sell it to -travelling hucksters. The price in loco is from 1 dol. 50 cents to 2 -dollars per frasilah; on the coast it rises to 3 dol. 50 cents. At all -these places the tariff varies with the Bombay market, and in 1858 -little was exported owing to the enlistment of “free labourers.” - -In the vicinity of Kilwa, for four marches inland, copal is dug up by -the Mandandu and other tribes; owing to the facility of carriage and the -comparative safety of the country it is somewhat dearer than that -purchased on the banks of the Rufiji. The copal of Ngao (Monghou) and -the Lindi creek is much cheaper than at Kilwa; the produce, however, is -variable in quality, being mostly a dull white chakazi. - -Like that of East African produce generally, the exploitation of copal -is careless and desultory. The diggers are of the lowest classes, and -hands are much wanted. Near the seaboard it is worked by the fringe of -Moslem negroids called the Wamrima or Coast clans; each gang has its own -mtu mku or akida’ao (mucaddum--headman), who, by distributing the stock, -contrives to gain more and to labour less than the others. In the -interior it is exploited by the Washenzi or heathen, who work -independently of one another. When there is no blood-feud they carry it -down to the coast, otherwise they must await the visits of petty retail -dealers from the ports, who enter the country with ventures of 10 or 12 -dollars, and barter for it cloth, beads, and wire. The kosi--south-west -or rainy monsoon--is the only period of work; the kaskazi, or dry -season, is a dead time. The hardness of the ground is too much for the -energies of the people: moreover, “kaskazi copal” gives trouble in -washing on account of the sand adhering to its surface, and the flakes -are liable to break. As a rule, the apathetic Moslem and the futile -heathen will not work whilst a pound of grain remains in their huts. The -more civilised use a little jembe or hoe, an implement about as -efficient as the wooden spade with which an English child makes -dirt-pies. - -The people of the interior “crow” a hole about six inches in diameter -with a pointed stick, and scrape out the loosened earth with the hand as -far as the arm will reach. They desert the digging before it is -exhausted; and although the labourers could each, it is calculated, -easily collect from ten to twelve lbs. per diem, they prefer sleeping -through the hours of heat, and content themselves with as many ounces. -Whenever upon the coast there is a blood-feud--and these are uncommonly -frequent--a drought, a famine, or a pestilence, workmen strike work, and -cloth and beads are offered in vain. It is evident that the copal-mine -can never be regularly and efficiently worked as long as it continues in -the hands of such unworthy miners. The energy of Europeans, men of -capital and purpose, settled on the seaboard with gangs of foreign -workmen, would soon remedy existing evils; but they would require not -only the special permission, but also the protection of the local -government. And although the intensity of the competition principle -amongst the Arabs has not yet emulated the ferocious rivalry of -civilisation, the new settlers must expect considerable opposition from -those in possession. Though the copal diggings are mostly situated -beyond the jurisdiction of Zanzibar, the tract labours under all the -disadvantages of a monopoly: the diwans, the heavy merchants, and the -petty traders of the coast derive from it, it is supposed, profits -varying from 80 to 100 per cent. Like other African produce, though -almost dirt-cheap, it becomes dear by passing through many hands, and -the frasilah, worth from 1 to 3 dollars in the interior, acquires a -value of from 8 to 9 dollars at Zanzibar. - -Zanzibar is the principal mart for perhaps the finest and largest ivory -in the world. It collects the produce of the lands lying between the -parallels of 2° N. lat. and 10° S. lat., and the area extends from the -coast to the regions lying westward of the Tanganyika Lake. It is almost -the only legitimate article of traffic for which caravans now visit the -interior. - -An account of the ivory markets in Inner Africa will remove sundry false -impressions. The Arabs are full of fabulous reports concerning regions -where the article may be purchased for its circumference in beads, and -greed of gain has led many of them to danger and death. Wherever tusks -are used as cattle-pens or to adorn graves, the reason is that they are -valueless on account of the want of conveyance. - -The elephant has not wholly disappeared from the maritime regions of -Zanzibar. It is found, especially during the rainy monsoon, a few miles -behind Pangani town: it exists also amongst the Wazegura, as far as -their southern limit, the Gama River. The Wadoe hunt the animal in the -vicinity of Shakini, a peak within sight of Zanzibar. Though killed out -of Uzaramo, and K’hutu, it is found upon the banks of the Kingani and -the Rufiji rivers. The coast people now sell their tusks for 30 to 35 -dollars’ worth of cloth, beads, and wire per frasilah. - -In Western Usagara the elephant extends from Maroro to Ugogi. The -people, however, being rarely professional hunters, content themselves -with keeping a look-out for the bodies of animals that have died of -thirst or of wounds received elsewhere. As the chiefs are acquainted -with the luxuries of the coast, their demands are fantastic. They will -ask, for instance, for a large tusk--the frasilah is not used in inland -sales--a copper caldron worth 15 dollars; a khesi, or fine cloth, -costing 20 dollars; and a variable quantity of blue and white cottons: -thus, an ivory, weighing perhaps 3 frasilah, may be obtained for 50 -dollars. - -Ugogo and its encircling deserts are peculiarly rich in elephants. The -people are eminently hunters, and, as has been remarked, they trap the -animals, and in droughty seasons they find many dead in the jungles. -Ivory is somewhat dearer in Ugogo than in Unyamwezi, as caravans rarely -visit the coasts. It is generally bartered to return caravans for slaves -brought from the interior; of these, five or six represent the value of -a large tusk. - -The ivory of Unyamwezi is collected from the districts of Mgunda -Mk’hali, Usukuma, Umanda, Usagozi, and other adjacent regions. When the -“Land of the Moon” was first visited by the Arabs, they purchased, it is -said, 10 farasilah of ivory with 1 frasilah of the cheap white or blue -porcelains. The price is now between 30 and 35 dollars per frasilah in -cloth, beads, and wire. The Africans, ignoring the frasilah, estimate -the value of the tusk by its size and quality; and the Arabs ascertain -its exact weight by steelyards. Moreover, they raise the weight of what -they purchase to 48 lbs., and diminish that which they sell to 23·50 -lbs., calling both by the same name, frasilah. When the Arab wishes to -raise an outfit at Unyanyembe he can always command three gorahs of -domestics (locally worth 30 dollars) per frasilah of ivory. Merchants -visiting Karagwah, where the ivory is of superior quality, lay in a -stock of white, pink, blue, green, and coral beads, and brass armlets, -which must be made up at Unyanyembe to suit the tastes of the people. -Cloth is little in demand. For one frasilah of beads and brass wire they -purchase about one and a half of ivory. At K’hokoro the price of tusks -has greatly risen; a large specimen can scarcely be procured under 40 -doti of domestics, one frasilah of brass wire, and 100 fundo of coloured -beads. The tusks collected in this country are firm, white, and soft, -sometimes running 6 farasilah (210 lbs.) The small quantity collected in -Ubena, Urori, and the regions east of the Tanganyika Lake, resembles -that of K’hokoro. - -The ivory of Ujiji is collected from the provinces lying around the -northern third of the lake, especially from Urundi and Uvira. These -tusks have one great defect; though white and smooth when freshly taken -from the animal, they put forth after a time a sepia-coloured or dark -brown spot, extending like a ring over the surface, which gradually -spreads and injures the texture. Such is the “Jendai” or “Gendai” ivory, -well known at Zanzibar: it is apt to flake off outside, and is little -prized on account of its lightness. At Ujiji tusks were cheap but a few -years ago, now they fetch an equal weight of porcelain or glass beads, -in addition to which the owners--they are generally many--demand from 4 -to 8 cloths. Competition, which amongst the Arabs is usually somewhat -unscrupulous, has driven the ivory merchant to regions far west of the -Tanganyika, and geography will thrive upon the losses of commerce. - -The process of elephant-hunting, the complicated division of the spoils, -and the mode of transporting tusks to the coast, have already been -described. A quantity of ivory, as has appeared, is wasted in bracelets, -armlets, and other ornaments. This would not be the case were the -imports better calculated to suit the tastes of the people. At present -the cloth-stuffs are little prized, and the beads are not sufficiently -varied for barbarians who, eminently fickle, require change by way of -stimulant. The Arabs seek in ivory six qualities: it must be white, -heavy, soft, thick--especially at the point--gently curved--when too -much curved it loses from 10 to 14 per cent.--and it must be marked with -dark surface-lines, like cracks, running longitudinally towards the -point. It is evident from the preceding details that the Arab merchants -gain but little beyond a livelihood in plenty and dignity by their -expeditions to the interior. An investment of 1,000 dollars rarely -yields more than 70 farasilah (2450 lbs.) Assuming the high price of -Zanzibar at an average of 50 dollars per farasilah, the stock would be -worth 3500 dollars--a net profit of 1050 dollars. Against this, however, -must be set off the price of porterage and rations--equal to at least -five dollars per frasilah--the enormous interest upon the capital, the -wastage of outfit, and the risk of loss, which, upon the whole, is -excessive. Though time, toil, and sickness, not being matters of money, -are rarely taken into consideration by the Eastern man, they must be set -down on the loss side of the account. It is therefore plain that -commercial operations on such a scale can be remunerative only to a poor -people, and that they can be rendered lucrative to capitalists only by -an extension and a development which, depending solely upon improved -conveyance, must be brought about by the energy of Europeans. For long -centuries past and for centuries to come the Semite and the Hamite have -been and will be contented with human labour. The first thought which -suggests itself to the sons of Japhet is a tramroad from the coast to -the Lake regions. - -The subject of ivory as sold at Zanzibar is as complicated as that of -sugar in Great Britain or of cotton in America. A detailed treatise -would here be out of place, but the following notices may serve to -convey an idea of the trade. - -The merchants at Zanzibar recognise in ivory, the produce of these -regions, three several qualities. The best, a white, soft, and large -variety, with small “bamboo,” is that from the Banadir, Brava, Makdishu, -and Marka. A somewhat inferior kind, on account of its hardness, is -brought from the countries of Chaga, Umasai, and Nguru. The Wamasai -often spoil their tusks by cutting them, for the facility of transport; -and, like the people of Nguru and other tribes, they stain the exterior -by sticking the tooth in the sooty rafters of their chimneyless huts, -with the idea that so treated it will not crack or split in the sun. -This red colour, erroneously attributed at Zanzibar to the use of ghee, -is removed by the people with blood, or cowdung mixed with water. Of -these varieties the smaller tusks fetch from 40 to 50 dollars; when they -attain a length of 6 feet, the price would be 12_l._; and some choice -specimens 7½ feet long fetch 60_l._ A lot of 47 tusks was seen to fetch -1500_l._; the average weight of each was 95 lbs., 80 being considered -moderate, and from 70 to 75 lbs. poor. - -The second quality is that imported from the regions about the Nyassa -Lake, and carried to Kilwa by the Wabisa, the Wahiao, the Wangindo, the -Wamakua, and other clans. The “Bisha ivory” formerly found its way to -the Mozambique, but the barbarians have now learned to prefer Zanzibar; -and the citizens welcome them, as they sell their stores more cheaply -than the Wahiao, who have become adepts in coast arts. The ivory of the -Wabisa, though white and soft, is generally small, the full length of a -tusk being 7 feet. The price of the “bab kalasi”--scrivellos or small -tusks, under 20 lbs.--is from 24 to 25 dollars; and the value increases -at the rate of somewhat less than 1 dollar per lb. The “bab gujrati or -kashshi,” the bab kashshi, is that intended for the Cutch market. The -tusk must be of middling size, little bent, very bluff at the point as -it is intended for rings and armlets; the girth must be a short span and -three fingers, the bamboo shallow and not longer than a hand. Ivory -fulfilling all these conditions will sell as high as 70 dollars per -frasilah,--medium size of 20 to 45 lbs.--fetches 56 to 60 dollars. The -“bab wilaiti,” or “foreign sort,” is that purchased in European and -American markets. The largest size is preferred, which ranging from 45 -to 100 lbs., may be purchased for 52 dollars per frasilah. - -The third and least valued quality is the western ivory, the Gendai, and -other varieties imported from Usagara, Uhehe, Urori, Unyamwezi, and its -neighbourhood. The price varies according to size, form, and weight, -from 45 to 56 dollars per frasilah. - -The transport of ivory to the coast, and the profits derived by the -maritime settlers, Arab and Indian, have been described. When all fees -have been paid, the tusk, guarded against smuggling by the custom-house -stamp, is sent to Zanzibar. On the island scrivellos under 6 lbs. in -weight are not registered. According to the late Lieutenant-Colonel -Hamerton, the annual average of large tusks is not less than 20,000. The -people of the country make the weight range between 17,000 and 25,000 -frasilah. The tusk is larger at Zanzibar than elsewhere. At Mozambique, -for instance, 60 lbs. would be considered a good average for a lot. -Monster tusks are spoken of. Specimens of 5 farasilah are not very rare, -and the people have traditions that these wonderful armatures have -extended to 227 lbs., and even to 280 lbs. each. - -Amongst the minor articles of export from the interior, hippopotamus -teeth have been enumerated. Beyond the coast, however, they form but a -slender item in the caravan load. In the inner regions they are bought -in retail; the price ranges between 1 and 2 fundo of beads, and at -times 3 may be procured for a shukkah. On the coast they rise, when -fine, to 25 dollars per frasilah. At Zanzibar a large lot, averaging 6 -to 8 lbs. in weight (12 lbs. would be about the largest), will sell for -60 dollars; per frasilah of 5 lbs. from 40 to 45 dollars: whilst the -smallest fetch from 5 to 6 dollars. Of surpassing hardness, they are -still used in Europe for artificial teeth. In America porcelain bids -fair to supplant them. - -The gargatan (karkadan?), or small black rhinoceros with a double horn, -is as common as the elephant in the interior. The price of the horn is -regulated by its size; a small specimen is to be bought for 1 jembe or -iron hoe. When large the price is doubled. Upon the coast a lot fetches -from 6 to 9 dollars per frasilah, which at Zanzibar increases to from 8 -to 12 dollars. The inner barbarians apply plates of the horn to helcomas -and ulcerations, and they cut it into bits, which are bound with twine -round the limb, like the wooden mpigii or hirizi. Large horns are -imported through Bombay to China and Central Asia, where it is said the -people convert them into drinking-cups, which sweat if poison be -administered in them: thus they act like the Venetian glass of our -ancestors, and are as highly prized as that eccentric fruit the coco de -mer. The Arabs of Maskat and Yemen cut them into sword-hilts, -dagger-hafts, tool-handles, and small boxes for tobacco, and other -articles. They greatly prize, and will pay 12 dollars per frasilah, for -the spoils of the kobaoba, or long-horned white rhinoceros, which, -however, appears no longer to exist in the latitudes westward of -Zanzibar island. - -Black cattle are seldom driven down from the interior, on account of the -length and risk of the journey. It is evident, however, that the trade -is capable of extensive development. The price of full-grown bullocks -varies, according to the distance from the coast, between 3 and 5 doti; -whilst that of cows is about double. When imported from the mainland -ports, 1 dollar per head is paid as an octroi to the government, and -about the same sum for passage-money. As Banyans will not allow this -traffic to be conducted by their own craft, it is confined to the Moslem -population. The island of Zanzibar is supplied with black cattle, -chiefly from the Banadir and Madagascar, places beyond the range of this -description. The price of bullocks varies from 5 to 8 dollars, and of -cows from 6 to 9 dollars. Goats and sheep abound throughout Eastern -Africa. The former, which are preferred, cost in the maritime regions -from 8 to 10 shukkah merkani; in Usagara, the most distant province -which exports them to Zanzibar, they may be bought for 4 to 6 shukkah -per head. The Wasawahili conduct a small trade in this live stock, and -sell them upon the island for 4 to 5 dollars per head. From their large -profits, however, must be deducted the risk of transport, the price of -passage, and the octroi, which is 25 cents per head. - -The exceptional expense of man-carriage renders the exportation of hides -and horns from the far interior impossible. The former are sold with the -animal, and are used for shields, bedding, saddle-bags, awnings, -sandals, and similar minor purposes. Skins, as has been explained, are -in some regions almost the only wear; consequently the spoils of a fine -goat command, even in far Usukuma, a doti of domestics. The principal -wild hides, which, however, rarely find their way to the coast, are -those of the rhinoceros--much prized by the Arabs for targes--the lion -and the leopard, the giraffe and the buffalo, the zebra and the quagga. -Horns are allowed to crumble upon the ground. The island of Zanzibar -exports hides and skins, which are principally those of bullocks and -goats brought from Brava, Marka, Makdishu, and the Somali country. The -korjah or score of the former has risen from 10 to 24 dollars; and the -people have learned to mix them with the spoils of wild animals, -especially the buffalo. When taken from the animal the hides are pinned -down with pegs passed through holes in the edges; thus they dry without -shrinking, and become stiff as boards. When thoroughly sun-parched they -are put in soak and are pickled in sea-water for forty-eight hours; thus -softened, they are again stretched and staked, that they may remain -smooth: as they are carelessly removed by the natives, the meat fat, -flippers, ears, and all the parts likely to be corrupted, or, to prevent -close stowage, are cut off whilst wet. They are again thoroughly -sun-dried, the grease which exudes during the operation is scraped off, -and they are beaten with sticks to expel the dust. The Hamburg merchants -paint their hides with an arsenical mixture, which preserves them during -the long months of magazine-storing and sea-voyage. The French and -American traders omit this operation, and their hides suffer severely -from insects. - -Details concerning the growth of cereals in the interior have occurred -in the preceding pages. Grain is never exported from the lands lying -beyond the maritime regions: yet the disforesting of the island of -Zanzibar and the extensive plantations of clove-trees rendering a large -importation of cereals necessary to the Arabs, an active business is -carried on by Arab dows from the whole of the coast between Tanga and -Ngao (Monghou), and during the dear season, after the rains, -considerable profits are realised. The corn measures used by the -Banyans are as follows:-- - - 2 Kubabah (each from 1·25 - to 1·50 lbs., in fact, - our “quart”) = 1 Kisaga. - 3 Kubabah = 1 Pishi (in Khutu the Pishi = 2 Kubabah). - 4 Kubabah = 1 Kayla (equal to 2 Man). - 24 Kayla = 1 Frasilah. - 60 Kayla = 1 Jizlah, in Kisawahili Mzo. - 20 Farasilah = 1 Kandi (candy). - -As usual in these lands, the kubabah or unit is made to be arbitrary; it -is divided into two kinds, large and small. The measure is usually a -gourd. - -The only timber now utilised in commerce is the mukanda’a or red and -white mangrove, which supplies the well-known bordi or “Zanzibar -rafters.” They are the produce of the fluviatile estuaries and the -marine lagoons, and attain large dimensions under the influence of -potent heat and copious rains. The best is the red variety, which, when -thrown upon the shore, stains the sand; it grows on the soft and slimy -bank, and anchors itself with ligneous shoots to the shifting soil. The -white mangrove, springing from harder ground, dispenses with these -supports; it is called mti wa muytu (“wild wood”), and is quickly -destroyed by worms. Indeed, all the bordi at Zanzibar begin to fail -after the fifth year if exposed to the humid atmosphere; at Maskat it is -said they will last nearly a century. The rafter trade is conducted by -Arab dows: the crews fell the trees, after paying 2 or 3 dollars in -cloth by way of ada or present to the diwan, who permits them to hire -labourers. The korjah or score of cut and trimmed red mangrove rafters -formerly cost at Zanzibar 1 dollar; the price has now risen to 2 and 3 -dollars. This timber finds its way to Aden and the woodless lands of -Eastern and Western Arabia; at Jeddah they have been known to fetch 1 -dollar each. - -The maritime regions also supply a small quantity of the “grenadille -wood,” called by the people, who confound it with real ebony (Diospyros -ebenus), abnus and pingú. It is not so brittle as ebony; it is harder -than lignum-vitæ (G. officinalis), spoiling the common saw, and is -readily recognised by its weight. As it does not absorb water or grease, -it is sent to Europe for the mouth-pieces and flanges of instruments, -and for the finer parts of mills. The people use it in the interior for -pipe-bowls. - -The mpira or caoutchouc-tree (Ficus elastica) grows abundantly -throughout the maritime regions. A few lumps of the gum were brought to -Zanzibar at the request of a merchant, who offered a large sum for a -few tons, in the vain hope of stimulating the exploitation of this -valuable article. The specimens were not, however, cast in moulds as by -the South American Indians; they were full of water, and even fouler -than those brought from Madagascar. To develop the trade European -supervision would be absolutely necessary during the season for tapping -the trees. - -A tree growing upon the coast and common in Madagascar produces, when an -incision has been made in the bark, a juice inspissating to the -consistency of soft soap, and much resembling the Indian “kokam.” This -“kanya” is eaten by Arabs and Africans, with the idea that it “moistens -the body:” in cases of stiff joints, swellings of the extremities, and -contractions of the sinews, it is melted over the fire and is rubbed -into the skin for a fortnight or three weeks. - -The produce and the value of the coco and areca palms have already been -noted. Orchella-weed (Rocilla fuciformis?), a lichen most valuable in -dyeing, is found, according to the late Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton, growing -on trees and rocks throughout the maritime regions. The important -growths of the interior are the frankincense and bdellium, the coffee -and nutmeg--which, however, are still in a wild state--the tamarind, and -the sisam or black wood. The largest planks are made of the mtimbati -(African teak?) and the mvule; they are now exported from the coast to -the island, where they have almost died out. As the art of sawing is -unknown, a fine large tree is invariably sacrificed for a single board. -It was the opinion of the late Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton that a saw-mill -at the mouth of the Pangani River would, if sanctioned by the local -government, be highly remunerative. - -Cowries, called by the Arabs kaure, in Kisawahili khete, and in the -interior simbi, are collected from various places in the coast-region -between Ras Hafun and the Mozambique. This trade is in the hands of -Moslem hucksters; the Banyan who has no objection to the valuable ivory -or hippopotamus-tooth, finds his religion averse to the vile spoils of -the Cypræa. Cowries are purchased on the mainland by a curious specimen -of the “round-trade;” money is not taken, so the article is sold measure -for measure of holcus grain. From Zanzibar the cowrie takes two -directions. As it forms the currency of the regions north of the “Land -of the Moon,” and is occasionally demanded as an ornament in Unyamwezi, -the return African porters, whose labour costs them nothing, often -partly load themselves with the article; the Arab, on the other hand, -who seldom visits the northern kingdoms, does not find compensation for -porterage and rations. The second and principal use of cowries is for -exportation to the West African coast, where they are used in -currency--50 strings, each of 40 shells, or a total of 2000, -representing the dollar. This, in former days a most lucrative trade, is -now nearly ruined. Cowries were purchased at 75 cents per jizlah, which -represents from 3 to 3½ sacks, of which much, however, was worthless. -The sacks in which they were shipped cost in Zanzibar 1 dollar 44 cents, -and fetched in West Africa 8 or 9 dollars. The shells sold at the rate -of 80_l._ (60_l._ was the average English price) per ton; thus the -profits were estimated at 500 per cent., and a Hamburg house rose, it is -said, by this traffic, from 1 to 18 ships, of which 7 were annually -engaged in shipping cowries. From 75 cents the price rose to 4 dollars, -it even attained a maximum of 10 dollars, the medium being 6 and 7 -dollars per jizlah, and the profits necessarily declined. - -Cotton is indigenous to the more fertile regions of Eastern as well as -of Western Africa. The specimens hitherto imported from Port Natal and -from Angola have given satisfaction, as they promise, with careful -cultivation, to rival in fineness, firmness, and weight the -medium-staple cotton of the New World. On the line between Zanzibar and -the Tanganyika Lake the shrub grows almost wild, with the sole exception -of Ugogo and its two flanks of wilderness, where the ground is too hard -and the dry season too prolonged to support it. The partial existence of -the same causes renders it scarce and dear in Unyamwezi. A superior -quality was introduced by the travelling Arabs, but it soon degenerated. -Cotton flourishes luxuriantly in the black earths fat with decayed -vegetation, and on the rich red clays of the coast regions, of Usumbara, -Usagara, and Ujiji, where water underlies the surface. These almost -virgin soils are peculiarly fitted by atmospheric and geologic -conditions for the development of the shrub, and the time may come when -vast tracts, nearly half the superficies of the lands, here grass-grown, -there cumbered by the primæval forest, may be taught to bear crops -equalling the celebrated growths of Egypt and Algeria, Harar and -Abyssinia. At present the cultivation is nowhere encouraged, and it is -limited by the impossibility of exportation to the scanty domestic -requirements of the people. It is grown from seed sown immediately after -the rains, and the only care given to it is the hedging requisite to -preserve the dwarf patches from the depredations of cattle. In some -parts the shrub is said to wither after the third year, in others to be -perennial. - -Upon the coast the cotton grown by the Wasawahili and Wamrima is chiefly -used as lamp-wicks and for similar domestic purposes; Zanzibar Island is -supplied from Western India. The price of raw uncleaned cotton in the -mountain regions is about 0·25 dollar per maund of 3 Arab lbs. In -Zanzibar, where the msufi or bombax abounds, its fibrous substance is a -favourite substitute for cotton, and costs about half the price. In -Unyamwezi it fetches fancy prices; it is sold in handfuls for salt, -beads, and similar articles. About 1 maund may be purchased for a -shukkah, and from 1 to 2 oz. of rough home-spun yarn for a fundo of -beads. At Ujiji the people bring it daily to the bazar and spend their -waste time in spinning yarn with the rude implements before described. -This cotton, though superior in quality, as well as quantity, to that of -Unyanyembe, is but little less expensive. - -Tobacco grows plentifully in the more fertile regions of East Africa. -Planted at the end of the rains, it gains strength by sun and dew, and -is harvested in October. It is prepared for sale in different forms. -Everywhere, however, a simple sun-drying supplies the place of cocking -and sweating, and the people are not so fastidious as to reject the -lower or coarser leaves and those tainted by the earth. Usumbara -produces what is considered at Zanzibar a superior article: it is -kneaded into little circular cakes four inches in diameter by half an -inch deep: rolls of these cakes are neatly packed in plantain-leaves for -exportation. The next in order of excellence is that grown in Uhiáo: it -is exported in leaf or in the form called kambari, “roll-tobacco,” a -circle of coils each about an inch in diameter. The people of Khutu and -Usagara mould the pounded and wetted material into discs like cheeses, 8 -or 9 inches across by 2 or 3 in depth, and weighing about 3 lbs.; they -supply the Wagogo with tobacco, taking in exchange for it salt. The leaf -in Unyamwezi generally is soft and perishable, that of Usukuma being the -worst: it is sold in blunt cones, so shaped by the mortars in which they -are pounded. At Karagwah, according to the Arabs, the tobacco, a -superior variety, tastes like musk in the water-pipe. The produce of -Ujiji is better than that of Unyamwezi; it is sold in leaf, and is -called by the Arabs hamúmí, after a well-known growth in Hazramaut. It -is impossible to assign an average price to tobacco in East Africa; it -varies from 1 khete of coral beads per 6 oz. to 2 lbs. - -Tobacco is chewed by the maritime races, the Wasawahili, and especially -the Zanzibar Arabs, who affect a religious scruple about smoking. They -usually insert a pinch of nurah or coral-lime into their quids,--as the -Somal introduces ashes,--to make them bite; in the interior, where -calcareous formations are deficient, they procure the article from -cowries brought from the coast, or from shells found in the lakes and -streams. About Unyamwezi all sexes and ages enjoy the pipe. Farther -eastward snuff is preferred. The liquid article in fashion amongst the -Wajiji has already been described. The dry snuff is made of leaf toasted -till crisp and pounded between two stones, mixed with a little magádí or -saltpetre, sometimes scented with the heart of the plantain-tree and -stored in the tumbakira or gourd-box. - -The other articles exported from the coast to Zanzibar are bees’-wax and -honey, tortoiseshell and ambergris, ghee, tobacco, the sugar-cane, the -wild arrowroot, gums, and fibrous substances; of these many have been -noticed, and the remainder are of too trifling a value to deserve -attention. - -To conclude the subject of commerce in East Africa. It is rather to the -merchant than to the missionary that we must look for the regeneration -of the country by the development of her resources. The attention of the -civilized world, now turned towards this hitherto neglected region, will -presently cause slavery to cease; man will not risk his all in petty and -passionless feuds undertaken to sell his weaker neighbour; and commerce, -which induces mansuetude of manners, will create wants and interests at -present unknown. As the remote is gradually drawn nigh, and the -difficult becomes accessible, the intercourse of man--strongest -instrument of civilisation in the hand of Providence--will raise Africa -to that place in the great republic of nations from which she has -hitherto been unhappily excluded. - -Already a line of steam navigation from the Cape of Good Hope to Aden -and the Red Sea, touching at the various important posts upon the -mainland and the islands of East Africa, has been proposed. This will be -the first step towards material improvement. The preceding pages have, -it is believed, convinced the reader that the construction of a tramroad -through a country abounding in timber and iron, and where only one pass -of any importance presents itself, will be attended with no engineering -difficulties. As the land now lies, trade stagnates, loanable capital -remains idle, produce is depreciated, and new seats of enterprise are -unexplored. The specific for existing evils is to be found in -facilitating intercourse between the interior and the coast, and that -this will in due season be effected we may no longer doubt. - - -APPENDIX II. - - -FIRST CORRESPONDENCE. - - -1. - - “East India House, 13th September, 1856. - -“Sir,--I am commanded by the Court of Directors of the East India -Company to inform you, that, in compliance with the request of the Royal -Geographical Society, you are permitted to be absent from your duties as -a regimental officer whilst employed with an Expedition, under the -patronage of Her Majesty’s Government, to be despatched into Equatorial -Africa, for the exploration of that country, for a period not exceeding -two years. I am directed to add, that you are permitted to draw the pay -and allowances of your rank during the period of your absence, which -will be calculated from the date of your departure from Bombay. - - “I am, Sir, - “Your most obedient humble Servant, - “(Signature illegible.) - - “Lieutenant R. BURTON.” - - -2. - - “East India House, 24th October, 1856. - -“Sir,--In consequence of a communication from the office of the -Secretary of State for War, intimating that you are required as a -witness on the trial by Court-Martial now pending on Colonel A. Shirley, -I am desired to convey to you the commands of the Court of Directors -that you instantly return to London for that purpose. In obeying this -order, you are required to proceed, not through France, but by the -steamer direct from Alexandria to Southampton. You will report yourself -to the Secretary of State for War immediately on your arrival. The agent -for the East India Company in Egypt has received instructions by this -mail to supply you with the necessary funds for your passage. - - “I am, Sir, - “Your most obedient humble Servant, - “(Signed) JAMES MELVILLE. - - “Lieutenant BURTON.” - - - -3. - - “_The Military Secretary, East India House._ - - “Aden, 14th November. - -“Sir,--I have the honour to acknowledge your official letter of the 24th -October, conveying to me the commands of the Court of Directors to -return instantly to London by the steamer direct from Alexandria to -Southampton. - -“The steamer in question left Alexandria on November 6th, at about 10 -a.m. I received and acknowledged from the British Consulate your -official letter on the same day at Cairo, about noon. No steamer leaves -Alexandria before the 20th inst.; it is therefore evident that I could -not possibly obey the order within the limits specified. - -“No mention was made about my returning to England by the next steamer, -probably because the Court-Martial pending upon Colonel A. Shirley will -before that time have come to a close. I need scarcely say, that should -I, on arrival at Bombay, find an order to that effect, it shall be -instantly and implicitly obeyed. - -“Considering, however, that I have already stated all that I know upon -the subject of the Court-Martial in question--that I was not subpœnaed -in England--that I am under directions of the Royal Geographical -Society, and employed with an Expedition under the patronage of the -Foreign Office--that without my proceeding to Bombay, valuable -Government property would most probably have been lost, and the -preparations for the Expedition have suffered from serious delay--and -lastly, that by the loss of a few weeks a whole year’s exploration must -be allowed to pass by--I venture respectfully to hope that I have taken -the proper course, and that should I, on my arrival in India, find no -express and positive order for an immediate return to Europe, I may be -permitted to proceed forthwith to Africa. - -“As a servant of the East India Company, in whose interests I have -conscientiously and energetically exerted myself for the space of 14 -years, I cannot but request the Court of Directors to use their powerful -influence in my behalf. Private interests cannot be weighed against -public duty. At the same time, I have already embarked a considerable -sum in the materiel of the Expedition, paid passage money, and devoted -time, which might otherwise have been profitably employed, to the -subject of Equatorial Africa. I remained long enough in London to enable -the War Office to call for my presence as a witness, and I ascertained -personally from Major-General Beatson that he had not placed me upon his -list. And finally, I venture to observe, that by returning to Europe -now, I should be compromising the interests of the Royal Geographical -Society, under which I am in fact virtually serving.” - - -4. - - “_To the Secretary of the Royal Geographical Society, London._ - -“Sir,--I have the honour to forward, for the information of the -President and members of the Expeditionary Committee, a copy of a -communication to my address from the Military Secretary to the Court of -Directors, together with my reply thereto. On perusal of these -documents, you will perceive that my presence is urgently demanded in -England to give evidence on a Court-Martial, and that the letter -desiring me to proceed forthwith to England arrived too late in Egypt to -admit of my obeying that order. Were I now to proceed directly from -Bombay to England, it is evident that the Expedition which I am -undertaking under your direction, must be deferred to a future and -uncertain date. With a view to obviate this uncalled-for delay, I have -the honour to request that you will use your interest to the effect -that, as an officer virtually in your service, I may be permitted to -carry out the views of your Society; and that my evidence, which can be -of no importance to either prosecutor or defendant in the Court-Martial -in question, may be dispensed with. I start this evening for Bombay, and -will report departure from that place. - - “I have, &c., - “R. F. BURTON. - - “Camp, Aden, 14th November, 1856.” - - -5. - - “_To the Secretary of the Royal Geographical Society, London._ - -“Sir,--I have the honour to inform you that on the 1st Dec. 1856, I -addressed to you a letter which I hope has been duly received. On the -2nd instant, in company with Lt. Speke, I left Bombay Harbour, on board -the H.E.I.C’s. ship of war ‘_Elphinstone_’ (Capt. Frushard, I.N., -commanding), _en route_ to East Africa. I have little to report that may -be interesting to geographers; but perhaps some account of political -affairs in the Red Sea may be deemed worthy to be transmitted by you to -the Court of Directors or to the Foreign Office. - -“As regards the Expedition, copies of directions and a memorandum on -instruments and observations for our guidance have come to hand. For -observations, Lt. Speke and I must depend upon our own exertions, -neither serjeants nor native students being procurable at the Bombay -Observatory. The case of instruments and the mountain barometer have not -been forwarded, but may still find us at Zanzibar. Meanwhile I have -obtained from the Commanding Engineer, Bombay, one six-inch sextant, one -five and a-half ditto, two prismatic compasses, five thermometers (of -which two are B.P.), a patent log, taper, protractors, stands, &c.; also -two pocket chronometers from the Observatory, duly rated; and Dr. Buist, -Secretary, Bombay Geographical Society, has obliged me with a mountain -barometer and various instructions about points of interest. Lt. Speke -has been recommended by the local government to the Government of India -for duty in East Africa, and the services of Dr. Steinhaeuser, who is -most desirous to join us, have been applied for from the Medical Board, -Bombay. I have strong hopes that both these officers will be allowed to -accompany me, and that the Royal Geographical Society will use their -efforts to that effect. - -“By the subjoined detailed account of preliminary expenses at Bombay, it -will be seen that I have expended £70 out of £250, for which I was -permitted to draw. - -“Although, as I before mentioned, the survey of Eastern Intertropical -Africa has for the moment been deferred, the necessity still exists. -Even in the latest editions of _Horsburgh_, the mass of matter relative -to Zanzibar is borrowed from the observations of Capt. Bissel, who -navigated the coast in H.M’s. ships ‘_Leopard_’ and ‘_Orestes_’ about -A.D. 1799. Little is known of the great current which, setting -periodically from and to the Red Sea and the Persian Gulf, sweeps round -the Eastern Horn of Africa. The reefs are still formidable to -navigators; and before these seas can be safely traversed by steamers -from the Cape, as is now proposed, considerable additions must be made -to Capt. Owen’s survey in A.D. 1823-24. Finally, operations on the coast -will form the best introduction to the geographical treasures of the -interior. - -“The H.E.I. Company’s surveying brig ‘_Tigris_’ will shortly be out of -dock, where she has been undergoing a thorough repair, and if fitted up -with a round house on the quarter-deck would answer the purpose well. -She might be equipped in a couple of months, and dispatched to her -ground before the South-west Monsoon sets in, or be usefully employed in -observing at Zanzibar instead of lying idle in Bombay Harbour. On former -surveys of the Arabian and African Coasts, a small tender of from thirty -to forty tons has always been granted, as otherwise operations are much -crippled in boisterous weather and exposed on inhospitable shores. -Should no other vessel be available, one of the smallest of the new -Pilot Schooners now unemployed at Bombay might be directed to wait upon -the ‘_Tigris_.’ Lt. H. G. Fraser, I.N., has volunteered for duty upon -the African Coast, and I have the honour to transmit his letter. Nothing -more would be required were some junior officer of the Indian Navy -stationed at Zanzibar for the purpose of registering tidal, barometric, -and thermometric observations, in order that something of the -meteorology of this unknown region may be accurately investigated. - -“When passing through Aden I was informed that the blockade of the -Somali Coast had been raised without compensation for the losses -sustained on my last journey. This step appears, politically speaking, a -mistake. In the case of the ‘_Mary Ann_’ brig, plundered near Berberah -in A.D. 1825, due compensation was demanded and obtained. Even in India, -an officer travelling through the states not under British rule, can, if -he be plundered, require an equivalent for his property. This is indeed -our chief protection,--semi-barbarians and savages part with money less -willingly than with life. If it be determined for social reasons at Aden -that the blockade should cease and mutton become cheap, a certain -per-centage could be laid upon the exports of Berberah till such time as -our losses, which, including those of government, amount to 1380_l._, -are made good. - -“From Harar news has reached Aden that the Amir Abubakr, dying during -the last year of chronic consumption, has been succeeded by a cousin, -one Abd el Rahman, a bigoted Moslem, and a violent hater of the Gallas. -His success in feud and foray, however, have not prevented the wild -tribes from hemming him in, and unless fortune interfere, the city must -fall into their hands. The rumour prevalent at Cairo, namely, that Harar -had been besieged and taken by Mr. Bell, now serving under ‘Theodorus, -Emperor of Ethiopia’ (the chief Cássái), appears premature. At Aden I -met in exile Sharmarkay bin Ali Salih, formerly governor of Zayla. He -has been ejected in favour of a Dankali chief by the Ottoman authorities -of Yemen, a circumstance the more to be regretted as he has ever been a -firm friend to our interests. - -“The present defenceless state of Berberah still invites our presence. -The eastern coast of the Red Sea is almost entirely under the Porte. On -the western shore, Cosseir is Egyptian, Masawwah, Sawakin, and Zayla, -Turkish, and Berberah, the best port of all, unoccupied. I have -frequently advocated the establishment of a British agency at this -place, and venture to do so once more. This step would tend to increase -trade, to obviate accidents in case of shipwreck, and materially assist -in civilizing the Somal of the interior. The Government of Bombay has -doubtless preserved copies of my reports, plans, and estimates -concerning the proposed agency, and I would request the Royal -Geographical Society to inquire into a project peculiarly fitted to -promote their views of exploration in the Eastern Horn of Africa. -Finally, this move would checkmate any ambitious projects in the Red -Sea. The Suez Canal may be said to have commenced. It appears impossible -that the work should pay in a commercial sense. Politically it may, if, -at least, its object be, as announced by the Count d’Escayrac de -Lauture, at the Société de Geographie, to ‘throw open the road of India -to the Mediterranean coasting trade, to democratise commerce and -navigation.’ The first effect of the highway would be, as that learned -traveller justly remarks, to open a passage through Egypt to the -speronari and feluccas of the Levant, the light infantry of a more -regular force. - -“The next step should be to provide ourselves with a more efficient -naval force at Aden, the Head-Quarters of the Red Sea Squadron. I may -briefly quote as a proof of the necessity for protection, the number of -British protégés in the neighbouring ports, and the present value of the -Jeddah trade. - -“Mocha now contains about twenty-five English subjects, the principal -merchants in the place. At Masawwah, besides a few French and Americans, -there are from sixteen to twenty British protégés, who trade with the -interior, especially for mules required at the Mauritius and our other -colonies. Hodaydah has from fifty to sixty, and Jeddah, besides its -dozen resident merchants, annually witnesses the transit of some -hundreds of British subjects, who flock to the Haj for commerce and -devotion. - -“The chief emporium of the Red Sea trade has for centuries past been -Jeddah, the port of Meccah. The custom-house reports of 1856 were kindly -furnished to me by Capt. Frushard, I.N. (now commanding the H.E.I.C’s. -sloop of war, ‘_Elphinstone_,’) an old and experienced officer, lately -employed in blockading Berberah, and who made himself instrumental in -quelling certain recent attempts upon Turkish supremacy in Western -Arabia. According to these documents, thirty-five ships of English build -(square-rigged) arrived at and left Jeddah between the end of September -and April, from and for various places in the East, China, Batavia, -Singapore, Calcutta, Bombay, the Malabar Coast, the Persian Gulf, and -Eastern Africa. Nearly all carried our colours, and were protected, or -supposed to be protected, by a British register: only five had on board -a European captain or sailing master, the rest being commanded and -officered by Arabs and Indians. Their cargoes from India and the Eastern -regions are rice, sugar, piece goods, planking, pepper, and pilgrims; -from Persia, dates, tobacco, and raw silk; and from the Mozambique, -ivory, gold dust, and similar costly articles. These imports in 1856 are -valued at 160,000_l._ The exports for the year, consisting of a little -coffee and spice for purchase of imports, amounts, per returns, to -120,000_l._ In addition to these square-rigged ships, the number of -country vessels, open boats, buggalows, and others, from the Persian -Gulf and the Indian Coasts, amount to 900, importing 550,000_l._, and -exporting about 400,000_l._ I may remark, that to all these sums at -least one-third should be added, as speculation abounds, and books are -kept by triple entry in the Holy Land. - -“The next port in importance to Jeddah is Hodaydah, where vessels touch -on their way northward, land piece and other goods, and call on the -return passage to fill with coffee. As the head-quarters of the Yemen -Pashalik, it has reduced Mocha, formerly the great coffee mart, to -insignificance, and the vicinity of Aden, a free port, has drawn off -much of the stream of trade from both these ancient emporia. On the -African Coast of the Red Sea, Sawakin, opposite Jeddah, is a mere slave -mart, and Masawwah, opposite Hodaydah, still trades in pearls, gold -dust, ivory, and mules. - -“But if the value of the Red Sea traffic calls, in the present posture -of events, for increased means of protection, the Slave-trade has equal -claims to our attention. At Aden energetic efforts have been made to -suppress it. It is, however, still carried on by country boats from -Sawakin, Tajurrah, Zayla, and the Somali Coast;--a single cargo -sometimes consisting of 200 head gathered from the interior, and -exported to Jeddah and the small ports lying north and south of it. The -trade is, I believe, principally in the hands of Arab merchants at -Jeddah and Hodaydah, and resident foreigners, principally Indian -Moslems, who claim our protection in case of disturbances, and -consequently carry on a thriving business. Our present Squadron in the -Red Sea consisting of only two sailing vessels, the country boats in the -African ports have only to wait till they see the ship pass up or down, -and then knowing the passage--a matter of a day--to be clear, to lodge -the slaves at their destination. During the past year, this trade was -much injured by the revolt of the Arabs against the Turks, and the -constant presence of the ‘_Elphinstone_,’ whose reported object was to -seize all vessels carrying slaves. The effect was principally moral. -Although the instructions for the guidance of the Commander enjoined him -to carry out the wishes of the Home and Indian Governments for the -suppression of Slavery, yet there being no published treaty between the -Imperial Government and the Porte sanctioning to us the right of search -in Turkish bottoms, his interference would not have been supported by -the Ottoman local authorities. It may be well to state, that after a -Firman had been published in the Hejaz and Gemen abolishing the trade, -the Turkish Governments of Jeddah and Hodaydah declared that the English -Commander might do as he pleased, but that they declined making any -written request for his assistance. For its present increased duties, -for the suppression of the Slave-trade, for the protection of British -subjects, and for the watching over Turkish and English interests in the -Red Sea, the Aden Squadron is no longer sufficient. During the last two -years it has numbered two sailing vessels, the ‘_Elphinstone_,’ a sloop -of war, carrying twelve 32-pounders, and two 12-pounders; and the -‘_Mahi_’ a schooner armed with one pivot gun, 32-pounder, and two -12-pounders. Nor would it be benefited by even a considerable increase -of sailing vessels. It is well known that, as the prevailing winds -inside the sea are favourable for proceeding upwards from September to -April, so on the return, during those months, they are strongly adverse. -A fast ship, like the ‘_Elphinstone_,’ requires 30 days on the downward -voyage to do the work of four. Outside the sea, during those months, the -current sets inward from the Indian Ocean, and a ship, in event of very -light winds falling, has been detained a whole week in sight of Aden. -From April to September, on the contrary, the winds set down the Red Sea -frequently with violence; the current inside the sea also turns towards -the Indian Ocean, and outside the S.W. Monsoon is blowing. Finally, -sailing ships draw too much water. In the last year the ‘_Elphinstone_’ -kept the Arabs away from Jeddah till the meanness of the Sherif Abd el -Muttalib had caused his downfall. But her great depth (about from 14-6 -to 15 ft.) prevented her approaching the shore at Hodaydah near enough -to have injured the insurgents, who, unaware of the fact, delayed their -attack upon the town till famine and a consequent pestilence dispersed -them. With little increase of present expenditure, the Red Sea might be -effectually commanded. Two screw-steamers, small enough to enter every -harbour, and to work steadily amongst the banks on either shore, and yet -large enough to be made useful in conveying English political officers -of rank and Native Princes, when necessary, would amply suffice, a -vessel of the class of H.M.’s gun-boat, ‘_Flying Fish_,’ drawing at -most 9 feet water, and carrying four 32-pounders of 25 cwt. each, as -broadside, and two 32-pounders of 25 cwt. each, as pivot guns, would -probably be that selected. The crews would consist of fewer men than -those at present required, and means would easily be devised for -increasing the accommodation of officers and men, and for securing their -health and comfort during cruises that might last two months in a hot -and dangerous climate. - -“By means of two such steamers we shall, I believe, be prepared for any -contingencies which might arise in the Red Sea; and if to this squadron -be added an allowance for interpreters and a slave approver in each -harbour, in fact a few of the precautions practised by the West African -Squadron, the slave-trade in the Red Sea will soon have received its -death-blow, and Eastern Africa its regeneration at our hands. - - “I have, &c., &c., - “R. F. BURTON, - “Commanding East African Expedition. - - “H.E.I.C. Sloop of War ‘_Elphinstone_,’ - “15th December, 1856.” - - -6. - - No. 961 of 1857. - - _From_ H. L. ANDERSON, _Esquire, Secretary to Government, Bombay, to_ - Captain R. F. BURTON, _18th Regiment Bombay N. I._ - - Dated the 23rd July, 1857. - -“Sir,--With reference to your letter, dated the 15th December, 1856, to -the address of the Secretary of the Royal Geographical Society of -London, communicating your views on affairs in the Red Sea, and -commenting on the political measures of the Government of India, I am -directed by the Right Honourable the Governor in Council to state, your -want of discretion, and due respect for the authorities to whom you are -subordinate, has been regarded with displeasure by Government. - - “I have the honour to be, Sir, - “Your most obedient Servant, - “(Signed) H. L. ANDERSON, - “Secretary to Government. - - “Bombay Castle, 23rd July, 1857.” - - -7. - -THE MASSACRE AT JUDDAH. - - (_Extract from the “Telegraph Courier,” Overland Summary, Bombay, - August 4, 1858._) - -“On the 30th June, a massacre of nearly all the Christians took place at -Juddah on the Red Sea. Amongst the victims were Mr. Page, the British -Consul, and the French Consul and his lady. Altogether the Arabs -succeeded in slaughtering about twenty-five. - -“H.M. steamship Cyclops was there at the time, and the captain landed -with a boat’s crew, and attempted to bring off some of the survivors, -but he was compelled to retreat, not without having killed a number of -the Arabs. The next day, however, he succeeded in rescuing the few -remaining Christians, and conveyed them to Suez. - -“Amongst those who were fortunate enough to escape was the daughter of -the French Consul; and this she succeeded in doing through the fidelity -of a native after she had killed two men with her own hands, and been -severely wounded in the encounter. Telegraphic dispatches were -transmitted to England and France, and the Cyclops is waiting orders at -Suez. As it was apprehended that the news from Juddah might excite the -Arab population of Suez to the commission of similar outrages, H.R.M’s -Vice-Consul at that place applied to the Pasha of Egypt for assistance, -which was immediately afforded by the landing of 500 Turkish soldiers, -under the orders of the Pasha of Suez.” - - -8. - - “Unyanyembe, Central Africa, 24th June, 1858. - -“Sir,--I have the honour to acknowledge the receipt of your official -letter, No. 961 of 1857, conveying to me the displeasure of the -Government in consequence of my having communicated certain views on -political affairs in the Red Sea to the R. G. S. of Great Britain. - -“The paper in question was as is directly stated, and it was sent for -transmission to the Board of Directors, or the Foreign Office, not for -publication. I beg to express my regret that it should have contained -any passages offensive to the authorities to whom I am subordinate; and -to assure the Right Honourable the Governor in Council that nothing was -farther from my intentions than to displease a government to whose kind -consideration I have been, and am still, so much indebted. - -“In conclusion, I have the honour to remind you that I have received no -reply to my official letter, sent from Zanzibar, urging our claims upon -the Somal for the plunder of our property. - - “I have the honour to be, Sir, - “Your most obedient Servant, - “RICHARD. F. BURTON, - “Commanding East African Expedition. - - To the Secretary to Government, Bombay.” - - - -9. - -No. 2845, of 1857. - - “Political Department. - - _From_ H. L. ANDERSON, Esq., _Secretary to Government of Bombay, to_ - Capt. R. F. BURTON, _Commanding E. A. Expedition, Zanzibar_. - - “Dated 13th June, 1857. - -“Sir,--I am directed by the Right Honourable the Governor in Council to -acknowledge the receipt of your letter dated the 26th April last, -soliciting compensation on behalf of yourself and the other members of -the late Somalee Expedition, for losses sustained by you and them. - - Having regard to the conduct of the Expedition, His Lordship cannot - think that the officers who composed it have any just claims on the - Government for their personal losses. - -“2. In reply, I am desired to inform you, that under the opinion copied -in the margin, expressed by the late Governor-General of India, the -Right Honourable the Governor in Council cannot accede to the -application now preferred. - - “I have, &c., - “(Signed) H. L. ANDERSON, - “Secretary to Government.” - -END OF FIRST CORRESPONDENCE. - - -SECOND CORRESPONDENCE. - - -1. - - “India Office, E. C., 8th November, 1859. - -“Sir,--I am directed by the Secretary of State for India in Council to -forward for your information, copy of a letter addressed by Captain -Rigby, her Majesty’s Consul and agent at Zanzibar, to the Government of -Bombay, respecting the non-payment of certain persons hired by you to -accompany the Expedition under your command into Equatorial Africa, and -to request that you will furnish me with any observations which you may -have to make upon the statements contained in that letter. - -“Sir Charles Wood especially desires to be informed why you took no -steps to bring the services of the men who accompanied you, and your -obligations to them, to the notice of the Bombay Government. - - “I am, Sir, - “Your obedient servant, - “(Signed) T. COSMO MELVILLE. - - “Captain R. Burton.” - - -2. - - “No. 70 of 1859. - “Political Department. - - _From_ Captain C. P. RIGBY, _her Majesty’s Consul and British agent, - Zanzibar, to_ H. L. ANDERSON, _Esquire, Secretary to Government, - Bombay_. - - “Zanzibar, July 15th, 1859. - -“Sir,--I have the honour to report, for the information of the Right -Honourable the Governor in Council, the following circumstances -connected with the late East African Expedition under the command of -Captain Burton. - -“2. Upon the return of Captain Burton to Zanzibar in March last, from -the interior of Africa, he stated that, from the funds supplied him by -the Royal Geographical Society for the expenses of the Expedition, he -had only a sufficient sum left to defray the passage of himself and -Captain Speke to England, and in consequence the persons who accompanied -the Expedition from here, viz.: the Kafila Bashi, the Belooch Sepoys, -and the porters, received nothing whatever from him on their return. - -“3. On quitting Zanzibar for the interior of Africa, the expedition was -accompanied by a party of Belooch soldiers, consisting of a Jemadar and -twelve armed men. I understand they were promised a monthly salary of -five dollars each; they remained with the Expedition for twenty months, -and as they received nothing from Captain Burton beyond a few dollars -each before starting, his highness the Sultan has generously distributed -amongst them the sum of (2300) two thousand three hundred dollars. - -“4. The head clerk of the Custom House here, a Banian, by name Ramjee, -procured ten men, who accompanied the Expedition as porters; they were -promised five dollars each per mensem, and received pay for six months, -viz.: thirty dollars each before starting for the interior. They were -absent for twenty months, during three of which the Banian Ramjee -states that they did not accompany the Expedition. He now claims eleven -months’ pay for each of these men, as they have not been paid anything -beyond the advance before starting. - -“5. The head clerk also states that after the Expedition left Zanzibar, -he sent two men to Captain Burton with supplies, one of whom was absent -with the Expedition seventeen months, and received nothing whatever; the -other, he states, was absent fifteen months, and received six months’ -pay, the pay for the remaining nine months being still due to him. Thus -his claim amounts to the following sums:-- - - Ten men for eleven months, at five dollars per man, per month, - 550 Dollars. - One man for seventeen „ „ „ „ - 85 „ - One „ nine „ „ „ „ - 45 „ - --- - Total dollars 680 - -“6. These men were slaves, belonging to ‘deewans,’ or petty chiefs, on -the opposite mainland. They travel far into the interior to collect and -carry down ivory to the coast, and are absent frequently for the space -of two or three years. When hired out, the pay they receive is equally -divided between the slave and the master. Captain Speke informs me, that -when these men were hired, it was agreed that one-half of their hire -should be paid to the men, and the other half to Ramjee on account of -their owners. When Ramjee asked Captain Burton for their pay, on his -return here, he declined to give him anything, saying that they had -received thirty dollars each on starting, and that he could have bought -them for a less sum. - -“7. The Kafila Bashi, or chief Arab, who accompanied the Expedition, by -name Said bin Salem, was twenty-two months with Captain Burton. He -states, that on the first journey to Pangany and Usumbara, he received -fifty (50) dollars from Captain Burton; and that before starting on the -last expedition, to discover the Great Lake, the late Lieutenant-Colonel -Hamerton presented him with five hundred dollars on behalf of Government -for the maintenance of his family during his absence. He states that he -did not stipulate for any monthly pay, as Colonel Hamerton told him, -that if he escorted the gentlemen to the Great Lake in the interior, and -brought them in safety back to Zanzibar, he would be handsomely -rewarded; and both Captain Speke and Mr. Apothecary Frost inform me that -Colonel Hamerton frequently promised Said bin Salem that he should -receive a thousand dollars and a gold watch if the Expedition were -successful. - -“8. As it appeared to me that Colonel Hamerton had received no authority -from Government to defray any part of the expenses of this Expedition, -and probably made these promises thinking that if the exploration of the -unknown interior were successful a great national object would be -attained, and that the chief man who conducted the Expedition would be -liberally rewarded, and as Captain Burton had been furnished with funds -to defray the expenses, I told him that I did not feel authorised to -make any payment without the previous sanction of Government, and Said -bin Salem has therefore received nothing whatever since his return. - -“9. Said Bin Salem also states, that on the return of the Expedition -from Lake Tanganyika, (70) seventy natives of the country were engaged -as porters, and accompanied the Expedition for three months; and that on -arriving at a place called ‘Kootoo,’ a few days’ journey from the -sea-coast, Captain Burton wished them to diverge from the correct route -to the coast opposite Zanzibar, to accompany him south to Keelwa; but -they refused to do so, saying that none of their people ever dared to -venture to Keelwa; that the chief slave-trade on the east coast is -carried on. No doubt their fears were well grounded. These men received -nothing in payment for their three months’ journey, and, as no white man -had ever penetrated into their country previously, I fear that any -future traveller will meet with much inconvenience in consequence of -these poor people not having been paid. - -“10. As I considered that my duty connected with the late Expedition was -limited to affording it all the aid and support in my power, I have felt -very reluctant to interfere with anything connected with the non-payment -of these men; but Said bin Salem and Ramjee having appealed to me, and -Captain Speke, since his departure from Zanzibar, having written me two -private letters, pointing out so forcibly the claims of these men, the -hardships they endured, and the fidelity and perseverance they showed, -conducting them safely through unexplored countries, and stating also -that the agreements with them were entered into at the British -Consulate, and that they considered they were serving the British -Government, that I deem it my duty to bring their claims to the notice -of Government; for I feel that if these men remain unpaid, after all -they have endured in the service of British officers, our name for good -faith in these countries will suffer, and that any future travellers -wishing to further explore the interesting countries of the interior -will find no persons willing to accompany them from Zanzibar, or the -opposite mainland. - -“11. As there was no British agent at Zanzibar for thirteen months after -the death of Colonel Hamerton, the Expedition was entirely dependent on -Luddah Damha, the Custom-master here, for money and supplies. He -advanced considerable sums of money without any security, forwarded all -requisite supplies, and, Captain Speke says, afforded the Expedition -every assistance, in the most handsome manner. Should Government, -therefore, be pleased to present him with a shawl, or some small mark of -satisfaction, I am confident he is fully deserving of it, and it would -gratify a very worthy man to find that his assistance to the Expedition -is acknowledged. - - “I have, &c., - “(Signed) C. P. RIGBY, Captain, - “H. M.’s Consul and British Agent, Zanzibar.” - - -3. - - “East India United Service Club, St. James’s Square, - - 11th November, 1859. - -“Sir,--I have the honour to acknowledge the receipt of your official -letter, dated the 8th of November, 1859, forwarding for my information -copy of a letter, addressed by Captain Rigby, Her Majesty’s consul and -agent at Zanzibar, to the Government of Bombay, respecting the -non-payment of certain persons, hired by me to accompany the Expedition -under my command into Equatorial Africa, and apprising me that Sir C. -Wood especially desires to be informed, why I took no steps to bring the -services of the men who accompanied me, and my obligations to them, to -the notice of the Bombay Government. - -“In reply to Sir Charles Wood I have the honour to state that, as the -men alluded to rendered me no services, and as I felt in no way obliged -to them, I would not report favourably of them. The Kafilah Bashi, the -Jemadar, and the Baloch were servants of H.H. Sayyid Majid, in his pay -and under his command; they were not hired by me, but by the late -Lieut.-Col. Hamerton, H.M.’s Consul and H.E.I.C.’s agent at Zanzibar, -and they marched under the Arab flag. On return to Zanzibar, I reported -them as undeserving of reward to Lieut.-Col. Hamerton’s successor, Capt. -Rigby, and after return to England, when my accounts were sent in to the -Royal Geographical Society, I appended a memorandum, that as those -persons had deserved no reward, no reward had been applied for. - -“Before proceeding to reply to Capt. Rigby’s letter, paragraph by -paragraph, I would briefly premise with the following remarks. - -“Being ordered to report myself to Lieut.-Col. Hamerton, and having been -placed under his direction, I admitted his friendly interference, and -allowed him to apply to H.H. the Sultan for a guide and an escort. -Lieut.-Col. Hamerton offered to defray, from public funds, which he -understood to be at his disposal, certain expenses of the Expedition, -and he promised, as reward to the guide and escort, sums of money, to -which, had I been unfettered, I should have objected as exorbitant. But -in all cases, the promises made by the late consul were purely -conditional, depending entirely upon the satisfactory conduct of those -employed. These facts are wholly omitted in Capt. Rigby’s reports. - -“2. Capt. Rigby appears to mean that the Kafila Bashi, the Baloch -sepoys, and the porters received nothing whatever on my return to -Zanzibar, in March last, from the interior of Africa, because the funds -supplied to me by the Royal Geographical Society for the Expenditure of -the Expedition, had been exhausted. Besides the sum of (1000_l._) one -thousand pounds, granted by the Foreign Office, I had expended from -private resources nearly (1400_l._) fourteen hundred pounds, and I was -ready to expend more had the expenditure been called for. But, though -prepared on these occasions to reward liberally for good service, I -cannot see the necessity, or rather I see the unadvisability of offering -a premium to notorious misconduct. This was fully explained by me to -Capt. Rigby on my return to Zanzibar. - -“3. Capt. Rigby ‘_understands_’ that the party of Baloch sepoys, -consisting of a Jemadar and twelve armed men, were promised a monthly -salary of 5 dollars each. This was not the case. Lieut.-Col. Hamerton -advanced to the Jemadar 25, and to each sepoy 20 dollars for an outfit; -he agreed that I should provide them with daily rations, and he promised -them an ample reward from the public funds in case of good behaviour. -These men deserved nothing; I ignore their ‘fidelity’ and -‘perseverance,’ and I assert that if I passed safely through an -unexplored country, it was in no wise by their efforts. On hearing of -Lieut.-Col. Hamerton’s death, they mutinied in a body. At the Tanganyika -Lake they refused to escort me during the period of navigation, a month -of danger and difficulty. When Capt. Speke proposed to explore the -Nyanza Lake, they would not march without a present of a hundred -dollars’ worth of cloth. On every possible occasion they clamoured for -‘Bakshish,’ which, under pain of endangering the success of the -Expedition, could not always be withheld. They were often warned by me -that they were forfeiting all hopes of a future reward, and, indeed, -they ended by thinking so themselves. They returned to Zanzibar with a -number of slaves, purchased by them with money procured from the -Expedition. I would not present either guide or escort to the consul; -but I did not think it my duty to oppose a large reward, said to be -2,300 dollars, given to them by H.H. the Sultan, and I reported his -liberality and other acts of kindness to the Bombay Government on my -arrival at Aden. This fact will, I trust, exonerate me from any charge -of wishing to suppress my obligations. - -“4. The Banyan Ramji, head clerk of the Custom House, did not, as is -stated by Capt. Rigby, procure me (10) ten men who accompanied the -Expedition as porters; nor were these men, as is asserted, (in par. 6), -‘Slaves belonging to deewans or petty chiefs on the opposite mainland.’ -It is a notorious fact that these men were private slaves, belonging to -the Banyan Ramjee, who hired them to me direct, and received from me as -their pay, for six months, thirty dollars each; a sum for which, as I -told him, he might have bought them in the bazaar. At the end of six -months I was obliged to dismiss these slaves, who, as is usually the -case with the slaves of Indian subjects at Zanzibar, were mutinous in -the extreme. At the same time I supplied them with cloth, to enable them -to rejoin their patron. On my return from the Tanganyika Lake, they -requested leave to accompany me back to Zanzibar, which I permitted, -with the express warning that they were not to consider themselves -re-engaged. The Banyan, their proprietor, had, in fact, sent them on a -trading trip into the interior under my escort, and I found them the -most troublesome of the party. When Ramji applied for additional pay, -after my return to Zanzibar, I told him that I had engaged them for six -months; that I had dismissed them at the end of six months, as was left -optional to me; and that he had already received an unusual sum for -their services. This conversation appears in a distorted form and -improperly represented in the concluding sentence of Capt. Rigby’s 6th -paragraph. - -“5 and 6. With respect to the two men sent on with supplies after the -Expedition had left Zanzibar, they were not paid, on account of the -prodigious disappearance of the goods intrusted to their charge, as I am -prepared to prove from the original journals in my possession. They were -dismissed with their comrades, and never afterwards, to the best of my -remembrance, did a day’s work. - -“7 and 8. The Kafilah Bashi received from me for the first journey to -Usumbara (50) fifty dollars. Before my departure in the second -Expedition he was presented by Lieut. Colonel Hamerton with (500) five -hundred dollars, almost double what he had expected. He was also -promised, in case of good conduct, a gold watch, and an ample reward, -which, however, was to be left to the discretion of his employers. I -could not recommend him through Captain Rigby to the Government for -remuneration. His only object seemed to be that of wasting our resources -and of collecting slaves in return for the heavy presents made to the -native chiefs by the Expedition, and the consequence of his carelessness -or dishonesty was, that the expenditure on the whole march, until we had -learnt sufficient to supervise him, was inordinate. When the Kafilah -Bashi at last refused to accompany Captain Speke to the Nyanza Lake, he -was warned that he also was forfeiting all claim to future reward, and -when I mentioned this circumstance to Captain Rigby at Zanzibar, he then -agreed with me that the 500 dollars originally advanced were sufficient. - -“9. With regard to the statement of Said bin Salim concerning the -non-payment of the seventy-three porters, I have to remark that it was -mainly owing to his own fault. The men did not refuse to accompany me -because I wished to diverge from the “correct route,” nor was I so -unreasonable as to expect them to venture into the jaws of the slave -trade. Several caravans that had accompanied us on the down-march, as -well as the porters attached to the Expedition, were persuaded by the -slaves of Ramjee (because Zanzibar was a nearer way to their homes) not -to make Kilwa. The pretext of the porters was simply that they would be -obliged to march back for three days. An extra remuneration was offered -to them, they refused it, and left in a body. Shortly before their -departure Captain Speke proposed to pay them for their services, but -being convinced that they might be prevented from desertion, I did not -judge advisable by paying them to do what would be virtually dismissing -them. After they had proceeded a few miles, Said bin Salim was sent to -recall them, on conditions which they would have accepted; he delayed, -lost time, and ended by declaring that he could not travel without his -dinner. Another party was instantly sent; they also loitered on the way, -and thus the porters reached the coast and dispersed. Before their -departure I rewarded the Kirangozi, or chief man of the caravan, who had -behaved well in exhorting his followers to remain with us. I was delayed -in a most unhealthy region for the arrival of some down porters, who -consented to carry our goods to the coast; and to prove to them that -money was not my object, I paid the newly-engaged gang as if they had -marched the whole way. Their willingness to accompany me is the best -proof that I had not lost the confidence of the people. Finally, on -arrival at the coast, I inquired concerning those porters who had -deserted us, and was informed by the Diwan and headman of the village, -that they had returned to their homes in the interior, after a stay of a -few days on the seaboard. This was a regrettable occurrence, but such -events are common on the slave-path in Eastern Africa, and the -established custom of the Arabs and other merchants, whom I had -consulted upon the subject before leaving the interior, is, not to -encourage desertion by paying part of the hire, or by settling for -porterage before arriving at the coasts. Of the seven gangs of porters -engaged on this journey, only one, an unusually small proportion, left -me without being fully satisfied. - -“10. That Said bin Salim, and Ramji, the Banyan, should have appealed to -Captain Rigby, according to the fashion of Orientals, after my departure -from Zanzibar, for claims which they should have advanced when I refused -to admit them, I am not astonished. But I must express my extreme -surprise that Captain Speke should have written two private letters, -forcibly pointing out the claims of these men to Captain Rigby, without -having communicated the circumstance in any way to me, the chief of the -Expedition. I have been in continued correspondence with that officer -since my departure from Zanzibar, and until this moment I have been -impressed with the conviction that Captain Speke’s opinion as to the -claims of the guide and escort above alluded to was identical with my -own. - -“11. With respect to the last paragraph of Captain Rigby’s letter, -proposing that a shawl or some small mark of satisfaction should be -presented by Government to Ladha Damha, the custom-master at Zanzibar, -for his assistance to the Expedition, I distinctly deny the gratuitous -assertions that I was entirely dependent on him for money and supplies; -that he advanced considerable sums of money without any security; that -he forwarded all requisite supplies, or, as Captain Speke affirms, that -he afforded the Expedition every assistance in the most handsome manner. -Before quitting Zanzibar for inner Africa, I settled all accounts with -him, and left a small balance in his hands, and I gave, for all -subsequent supplies, an order upon Messrs. Forbes, my agents in Bombay. -He, like the other Hindus at Zanzibar, utterly neglected me after the -death of Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton; and Captain Rigby has probably seen -some of the letters of complaint which were sent by me from the -interior. In fact, my principal merit in having conducted the Expedition -to a successful issue is in having contended against the utter neglect -of the Hindus at Zanzibar (who had promised to Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton, -in return for his many good offices, their interest and assistance), and -against the carelessness and dishonesty, the mutinous spirit and the -active opposition of the guide and escort. - -“I admit that I was careful that these men should suffer for their -misconduct. On the other hand, I was equally determined that those who -did their duty should be adequately rewarded,--a fact which nowhere -appears in Captain Rigby’s letter. The Portuguese servants, the -negro-gun carriers, the several African gangs of porters, with their -leaders, and all other claimants, were fully satisfied. The bills drawn -in the interior, from the Arab merchants, were duly paid at Zanzibar, -and on departure I left orders that if anything had been neglected it -should be forwarded to me in Europe. I regret that Captain Rigby, -without thoroughly ascertaining the merits of the case (which he -evidently has not done), should not have permitted me to record any -remarks which I might wish to offer, before making it a matter of appeal -to the Bombay Government. - -“Finally, I venture to hope that Captain Rigby has forwarded the -complaints of those who have appealed to him without endorsing their -validity; and I trust that these observations upon the statements -contained in his letter may prove that these statements were based upon -no foundation of fact. - - “I am, Sir, - “Your obedient Servant, - “R. F. BURTON, - “Bombay Army.” - - -4. - - “India Office, E. C., 14th January, 1860. - -“Sir,--I am directed by the Secretary of State for India in council, to -inform you that, having taken into consideration the explanations -afforded by you in your letter of the 11th November, together with the -information on the same subject furnished by Captain Speke, he is of -opinion that it was your duty, knowing, as you did, that demands for -wages, on the part of certain Belochs and others who accompanied you -into Equatorial Africa, existed against you, not to have left Zanzibar -without bringing these claims before the consul there, with a view to -their being adjudicated on their own merits, the more especially as the -men had been originally engaged through the intervention or the -influence of the British authorities, whom, therefore, it was your duty -to satisfy before leaving the country. Had this course been followed, -the character of the British Government would not have suffered, and the -adjustment of the dispute would, in all probability, have been effected -at a comparatively small outlay. - -“Your letter, and that of Captain Speke, will be forwarded to the -Government of Bombay, with whom it will rest to determine whether you -shall be held pecuniarily responsible for the amount which has been paid -in liquidation of the claims against you. - - “I am, Sir, - “Your obedient Servant, - “(Signed) J. COSMO MELVILL.” - - -5. - -“Sir,--I have the honour to acknowledge the receipt of your official -letter of the 14th January, 1860. - -“In reply, I have the honour to observe that, not having been favoured -with a copy of the information on the same subject furnished to you by -Captain Speke, I am not in a position to understand on what grounds the -Secretary of State for India in council should have arrived at so -unexpected a decision as regards the alleged non-payment of certain -claims made by certain persons sent with me into the African interior. - -“I have the honour to observe that I did not know that demands for wages -existed against me on the part of those persons, and that I believed I -had satisfactorily explained the circumstances of their dismissal -without payment in my official letter of the 11th November, 1859. - -“Although impaired health and its consequences prevented me from -proceeding in an official form to the adjudication of the supposed -claims in the presence of the consular authority, I represented the -whole question to Captain Rigby, who, had he then--at that time--deemed -it his duty to interfere, might have insisted upon adjudicating the -affair with me, or with Captain Speke, before we left Zanzibar. - -“I have the honour to remark that the character of the British -Government has _not_, and cannot (in my humble opinion) have suffered in -any way by my withholding a purely conditional reward when forfeited by -gross neglect and misconduct; and I venture to suggest that by -encouraging such abuses serious obstacles will be thrown in the way of -future exploration, and that the liberality of the British Government -will be more esteemed by the native than its character for sound sense. - -“In conclusion, I venture to express my surprise, that all my labours -and long services in the cause of African Exploration should have won -for me no other reward than the prospect of being mulcted in a pecuniary -liability incurred by my late lamented friend, Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton, -and settled without reference to me by his successor, Captain Rigby. - - “I have the honour, &c. &c., - “RICHD. F. BURTON, - “Captain, Bombay Army.” - - “The Under Secretary of State for India.” - - - - -INDEX. - - - Abad bin Sulayman, rest of the party at the house of, at Kazeh, i. - 323. - - Abdullah, the Baloch, sketch of him, i. 136. - - Abdullah bin Nasib, of Zanzibar, his kindness, i. 270. - - Abdullah bin Jumah, and his flying caravan, i. 315. - - Abdullah bin Salim of Kazeh, his authority there, i. 329. - - Abdullah, son of Musa Mzuri, ii. 225, 226. - - Ablactation, period of, in East Africa, i. 117. - - Abrus precatorius used as an ornament in Karagwah, ii. 181. - - Adansonia digitata, or monkey-bread of East Africa, peculiarity of, - i. 47. - - Africa, Central, great depression of, i. 409; ii. 8. - - African proverbs, i. 131. - - Africans, a weak-brained people, i. 33. - - Africans, East, their character and religion, ii. 324. - - Albinos, frequency of, amongst the Wazaramo tribes, i. 109. - Description of them, 109. - - Amayr bin Said el Shaksi, calls on Capt. Burton, ii. 228. His - adventures, 228. - - Ammunition, danger of, in African travelling, i. 264. - - Androgyne, the, ii. 159. - - Animals, wild, of Uzaramo, i. 63. Of Dut’humi, 87. Of Zungomero, 95. - Of the Mrima, 103, 104. Of K’hutu, 160. Of the Usagara mountains, 162. - Of the plains beyond the Rufuta, 181, 183. Of Ugogi, 242. Of the road - to Ugogo, 247. In Ugogo, 300. Of Unyamwezi, ii. 15. Of Ujiji, 60. - - Antelopes in the Doab of the Mgeta river, i. 81. In the Rufuta plains, - 183. Of East Africa, 268, 269. On the Mgunda Mk’hali, 289. Of Ugogo, - i. 300. - - Ant-hills of East Africa, i. 202, 203. In Unyamwezi, ii. 19. Clay of, - chewed in Unyamwezi, 28. - - Anthropophagi of Murivumba, ii. 114. - - Ants in the Doab of the Mgeta river, i. 82. Red, of the banks of - rivers in East Africa, 186. Maji m’oto, or “hot water” ants, 187. Near - the Marenga Mk’hali river, 201. Account of them, 202. Annoyance of, at - K’hok’ho, 276. Of Rubuga, 317. Of East Africa, 371. Of Unyamwezi, - ii. 19. Of Ujiji, 64. - - Apples’ wood, at Mb’hali, i. 401. - - Arab caravans, description of, in East Africa, i. 342. - - Arab proverbs, i. 50, 86, 133, 135. - - Arabs of the East coast of Africa, i. 30. The half-castes described, - 32. Those settled in Unyanyembe, 323. History and description of their - settlements, 327. Tents of, on their march, 353. - - Arachis Hypogæa, as an article of food, i. 198. - - Arak tree in Ugogo, i. 300. - - Archery in East Africa, ii. 301. - - Armanika, Sultan of Karagwah, account of, ii. 183. His government, - 183, 184. Besieged by his brother, ii. 224. - - Arms of the Wazaramo, i. 110. Of the Wadoe, 124. Of the Baloch - mercenaries, 133. Of the “Sons of Ramji,” 140. Required for the - expedition, 152. Of the Wasagara tribe, 199, 237. Of the Wahehe, 240. - Of the Wagogo, 304. Of the Wahamba, 312. Of the porters of caravans, - 350. Of the Wakimbu, ii. 20. Of the Wanzamwezi, 30. Of the Wajiji, 66. - Of the Wavinza, 75. Of the Watuta, 77. Of the people of Karagwah, 182. - - Army of Uganda, ii. 189. - - Artémise frigate, i. 1. - - Atmosphere, brilliancy of the, in Ugogo, i. 297. - - Asclepias in the Usagara mountains, i. 165. - - Ashmed bin Nuuman, the Wajhayn or “two faces,” i. 3. - - Assegais of the Wasagara tribe, i. 237. Of the Wanyamwezi, ii. 22. Of - East Africa generally, 301. - - Ass, the African, described, i. 85. Those of the expedition, 151. Loss - of, 180. Fresh asses purchased from a down caravan, 209. - - Asthma, or zik el nafas, remedy in East Africa for, i. 96. - - Atheism, aboriginal, ii. 342. - - - Bakera, village of, i. 92. - - Bakshshish, in the East, ii. 84, 85. The propriety of rewarding bad - conduct, 85. Influence of, ii. 172. - - Balochs, the, of Zanzibar, described, i. 14. Their knavery, 85. Their - behaviour on the march, 127. Sketch of their character, 132. Their - quarrels with the “Sons of Ramji,” 163. Their desertion and return, - 173. Their penitence, 177. Their character, 177, 178. Their discontent - and complaints about food, 212, 221. And proposed desertion, 273, 278. - Their bile cooled, 274. Their injury to the expedition, 319. Their - breakfast on the march, 345. Their manœuvres at Kazeh, 376. Their - desertion, ii. 111. Influenced by bakhshish, 217. Their quarrel with - the porters, 253. Doing “Zam,” ii. 276. Sent home, 277. - - Bana Dirungá, village of, i. 71. - - Banadir, Barr el, or harbour-land, geography of, i. 30. - - Bangwe, islet of, in Lake Tanganyika, ii. 53. Described, 99. - - Banyans, the, of the East Coast of Africa, i. 19. - - Baobab Tree of East Africa, i. 47. - - Barghash, Sayyid, of Zanzibar, a state prisoner at Bombay, i. 3. - - Barghumi, the, of East Africa, ii. 294. - - Bark-cloth, price of, at Uvira, ii. 121. - - Basket making in East Africa, ii. 316. - - Basts of East Africa, ii. 317. - - Battle-axes of the Wanyamwezi, ii. 23. Of the East Africans, 307. - - Bazar-gup, or tittle-tattle in the East, i. 12. - - Bdellium Tree, or Mukl, of Ugogo, i. 299. Uses of, among the Wagogo, - 300. - - Beads, mode of carrying, in the expedition, i. 145. Account of African - beads of commerce, 146. Currency at Msene, 398. Those most highly - valued in Ujiji, ii. 72. Bead trade of Zanzibar, 390. - - Bedding required for the expedition, i. 154. - - Beds and bedding of the East Africans, i. 370. - - Beef, roast, and plum-pudding at Msene, i. 400. - - Bee-hives, seen for the first time at Marenga Mk’hali, i. 200. Their - shape, 200. Of Rubuga, 317. - - Beer in East Africa, ii. 285. Mode of making it, 286. - - Bees in K’hutu, i. 120. But no bee-hives, 120. Wild, attack the - caravan, i. 176, 248, 249. Annoyance of, at K’hok’ho, 276. Of East - Africa, ii. 287. - - Beetles in houses at Ujiji, ii. 91, _note_. One in the ear of Captain - Speke, 91, _note_. - - Belok, the Baloch, sketch of him, i. 135. - - Bérard, M., his kindness, i. 22. - - Berberah, disaster at, referred to, i. 68. - - Bhang plant, the, in Zungomero, i. 95. Smoked throughout East Africa, - 96. Effects produced by, 96. Used in Ujiji, ii. 70. - - Billhooks carried by the Wasagara tribe, i. 238. - - Birds, mode of catching them, i. 160. Scarcity of, in East Africa, - 270. Of Ugogo, 300. Period of nidification and incubation of, ii. 13. - Of Unyamwezi, 16. Of Ujiji, 60. - - Births and deaths amongst the Wazaramo, customs at, i. 115, 116, 118, - 119. - - Bivouac, a pleasant, i. 245. - - Black Magic. See Uchawi. - - Blackmail of the Wazaramo, i. 70, 113. Of the Wak’hutu, 121. Of the - Wazegura, 125. At Ugogo, 252. Account of the blackmail of East Africa, - 253. At Kirufuru, 264. At Kanyenye, 265. In K’hok’ho, 274. At Mdaburu, - 279. At Wanyika, 407. At Ubwari island, ii. 114. - - Blood of cattle, drunk in East Africa, ii. 282. - - Boats of the Tanganyika Lake, described, ii. 94. - - Boatmen of the Tanganyika Lake, ii. 101. - - Bomani, “the stockade,” village of, i. 47. Halt at, 47. Vegetation of, - 47, 48. Departure from, 51. - - Bombax, or silk cotton tree, of Uzaramo, i. 60. - - Bonye fiumara, accident to a caravan in the, ii. 270. - - Books required for the expedition, i. 155. - - Borassus flabelliformis, or Palmyra tree, in the plains, i. 180. Toddy - drawn from, 181. - - Bos Caffer, or Mbogo, in the plains of East Africa, i. 181. Described, - 181. In Ugogo, 300. - - Botanical collection stolen, i. 319. Difficulty of taking care of the - collection on the upward march, 320. Destroyed by damp at Ujiji, - ii. 81. - - Boulders of granite on the Mgunda Mk’hali, i. 284. Picturesque effects - of the, 285, 286. - - Bows and arrows of the Wagogo, i. 504. Of the Wanyamwezi, ii. 22. Of - the East Africans, 301. Poisoned arrows, 305. - - Brab tree, or Ukhindu, of the Mrima, i. 48. - - Breakfast in the caravan described, i. 345. An Arab’s, at Kazeh, - ii. 167. - - Buffaloes on the road to Ugogo, i. 247. In Unyamwezi, ii. 15. On the - Rusugi river, ii. 40. - - Bumbumu, Sultan, of the Wahehe, i. 239. - - Burial ceremonies of the Wanyamwezi, ii. 25. - - Burkene, route to, ii. 179. - - Burton, Captain, quits Zanzibar Island, i. 1. - The personnel and materiel of the expedition, i. 3, 10, 11. - Smallness of the grant allowed by government, i. 4, _note_. - The author’s proposal to the Royal Geographical Society, i. 5. - Anchors off Wale Point, i. 8. - His difficulties, i. 19. - His MS. lost, i. 21. - Melancholy parting with Col. Hamerton, i. 22. - Lands at Kaole, i. 22. - Melancholy reflections, i. 24. - Transit of the valley of the Kingani and the Mgeta rivers, i. 41. - The first departure, i. 43, 46. - Tents pitched at Bomani, i. 51. - Delay the second, i. 49. - Departure from Bomani, i. 51. - Arrives at the village of Mkwaju la Mvuani, i. 52. - The third departure, i. 53. - Halt at Nzasa, in Uzaramo, i. 54. - Start again, i. 57. - First dangerous station, i. 59. - Second one, i. 63. - Adventure at Makutaniro, i. 70. - Author attacked by fever, i. 71. - Third dangerous station, i. 73. - Encamps at Madege Madogo, i. 79. - And at Kidunda, i. 79. - Loses his elephant-gun, i. 80. - Arrives at a place of safety, i. 81. - Enters K’hutu, i. 82. - Has a hammam, i. 82. - Thoroughly prostrated, i. 84. - His troubles, i. 86. - Prepares a report for the Royal Geographical Society, i. 89. - Advances from Dut’humi, i. 91. - Halts at Zungomero, i. 127. - Leaves Zungomero, i. 158. - Arrives at Mzizi Mdogo, i. 161. - Recovery of health at, i. 161. - Leaves Mzizi Mdogo, i. 165. - Halts at Cha K’henge, i. 167. - Desertion of the Baloch, i. 173. - Their return, i. 174. - Halts at Muhama, i. 178. - Again attacked by fever, i. 179. - Resumes the march, i. 180. - Contrasts in the scenery, i. 184. - Fords the Mukondokwa river, i. 188. - Reaches Kadetamare, i. 189. - Loss of instruments, i. 189. - Halts at Muinyi, i. 193. - Resumes the journey, i. 194. - Halts at Ndábi, i. 196. - Resumes the march and rests at Rumuma, i. 198. - Abundance of its supplies, i. 198. - Reaches Marenga Mk’hali, i. 203. - Approaches the bandit Wahumba, i. 203. - Leaves Marenga Mk’hali, i. 204. - Halts at the basin of Inenge, i. 208. - Wholesome food obtained there, i. 208. - Exchange of civilities with a down caravan, i. 208. - Painful ascent of the Rubeho, or Windy Pass, i. 213. - Halt at the Great Rubeho, i. 215. - Ascent of the Little Rubeho, i. 215. - Descent of the counterslope of the Usagara mountains, i. 219. - First view of the Ugogo mountains, i. 220. - Halts at the third Rubeho, i. 221. - Marches on the banks of the Dungomaro, i. 222. - Reaches the plains of Ugogo, i. 223. - Losses during the descent, i. 224. - Halts at Ugogi, i. 241. - Engages the services of fifteen Wanyamwezi porters, i. 244. - Leaves Ugogi, i. 244. - The caravan dislodged by wild bees, i. 248. - Loses a valuable portmanteau, i. 249. - Halts on the road for the night, i. 250. - Leaves the jungle-kraal, i. 250. - Sights the Ziwa, or Pond, i. 251. - Provisions obtained there, i. 255. - Recovery of the lost portmanteau, i. 257. - Joins another up-caravan, i. 257, 258. - Enters Ugogo, i. 259. - Astonishment of the Wagogo, i. 263. - Delayed at Kifukuru for blackmail, i. 264. - Leaves Kifukuru, i. 265. - Accident in the jungle, i. 265. - Interview with Magomba, sultan of Kanyenye, i. 266. - Hurried march from Kanyenye, i. 271. - Arrives at Usek’he and K’hok’ho, i. 272. - Difficulties of blackmail at K’hok’ho, i. 274. - Departs from K’hok’ho, i. 275. - Desertion of fifteen porters, i. 275. - Trying march in the Mdáburu jungle, i. 277. - Reaches Uyanzi, i. 279. - Traverses the Fiery Field, i. 283. - Arrives at the Mabunguru fiumara, i. 285. - Losses on the march, i. 285. - Reaches Jiwe la Mkoa, i. 286, 288. - And Kirurumo and Jiweni, i. 289. - Marches to Mgono T’hembo, i. 290. - Arrives at the Tura Nullah, i. 291. - And at the village of Tura, the frontier of Unyamwezi, i. 292, 313. - Proceeds into Unyamwezi, i. 314. - Halts at the Kwale nullah, i. 315. - Visited by Abdullah bin Jumah and his flying caravan, i. 315. - And by Sultan Maura, i. 316. - Reaches Ukona, i. 318. - Leaves Ukona and halts at Kigwa or Mkigwa, i. 319. - Enters the dangerous Kigwa forest, i. 319. - Loss of papers there, i. 319. - Reaches the rice-lands of the Unyamyembe district, i. 321. - Enters Kazeh in grand style, i. 322. - Hospitality of the Arabs there, i. 323. - Difficulties of the preparations for recommencing the journey, - i. 377. - Sickness of the servants, i. 379. - Author attacked by fever, i. 380. - Leaves Kazeh and proceeds to Zimbili, i. 386. - Proceeds and halts at Yombo, i. 386, 387. - Leaves Yombo and reaches Pano and Mfuto, i. 389. - Halts at Irora, i. 389. - Marches to Wilyankuru, i. 390. - Hospitality of Salim bin Said, i. 391. - And of Masid ibn Musallam el Wardi, at Kirira, i. 392. - Leaves Kirira, and marches to Msene, i. 395. - Delayed there, i. 399. - Marches to the village of Mb’hali, i. 401. - And to Sengati and the deadly Sorora, i. 401. - Desertions and dismissals at Sorora, i. 402. - Marches to Kajjanjeri, i. 403. - Detained there by dangerous illness, i. 403. - Proceeds and halts at Usagozi, i. 406. - Some of the party afflicted by ophthalmia, i. 406. - Quits Usagozi, and marches to Masenza, i. 406, 407. - Reaches the Mukozimo district, i. 407. - Spends a night at Rukunda, i. 407. - Sights the plain of the Malagarazi river, i. 407. - Halts at Wanyika, i. 407. - Settlement of blackmail at, i. 408. - Resumes the march, i. 408. - Arrives at the bank of the Malagarazi river, i. 408. - Crosses over to Mpete, i. 410. - Marches to Kinawani, ii. 35. - And to Jambeho, ii. 36. - Fords the Rusugi river, ii. 37. - Fresh desertions, ii. 38. - Halts on the Ungwwe river, ii. 40. - First view of the Tanganyika Lake, ii. 42. - Arrives at Ukaranga, ii. 44. - And at Ujiji, ii. 46. - Visits the headman Kannena, ii. 81. - Incurs his animosity, ii. 82, 84. - Ill effects of the climate and food of Ujiji, ii. 85. - Captain Speke sent up the Lake, ii. 87. - Mode of spending the day at Ujiji, ii. 87. - Failure of Capt. Speke’s expedition, ii. 90. - The author prepares for a cruise, ii. 93. - The voyage, ii. 99. - Halts and encamps at Kigari, ii. 101. - Enters the region of Urundi, ii. 101. - Reaches and halts at Wafanya, ii. 106. - Sails for the island of Ubwari, ii. 112. - Anchors there, ii. 113. - Leaves there and arrives at Murivumba, ii. 114. - Reaches the southern frontier of Uvira, ii. 115. - Further progress stopped, ii. 117, 119. - Returns, ii. 121. - Storm on the Lake, ii. 123. - Passes the night at Wafanya, ii. 123. - A slave accidentally shot there, ii. 124. - Returns to Kawele, ii. 124. - Improvement in health, ii. 129. - The outfit reduced to a minimum, ii. 130. - Arrival of supplies, but inadequate, ii. 132. - Preparations for the return to Unyanyembe, ii. 155. - The departure, ii. 157. - The return-march, ii. 160. - Pitches tents at Uyonwa, ii. 161. - Desertions, ii. 161. - Returns to the ferry of the Malagarazi, ii. 164. - Marches back to Unyanyembe, ii. 165. - Halts at Yombo, ii. 166. - Re-enters Kazeh, ii. 167. - Sends his companion on an expedition to the north, ii. 173. - His mode of passing time at Kazeh, ii. 173, 198. - Preparations for journeying, ii. 200. - Shortness of funds, ii. 221. - Outfit for the return, ii. 229. - Departs from Kazeh, ii. 231. - Halts at Hanga, ii. 232. - Leaves Hanga, ii. 240. - Returns through Ugogo, ii. 244. - The letters with the official “wigging,” ii. 247. - Takes the Kiringawana route, ii. 249. - Halts at a den of thieves, ii. 252. - And at Maroro, ii. 255. - Marches to Kiperepeta, ii. 256. - Fords the Yovu, ii. 258. - Halts at Ruhembe rivulet, ii. 261. - And on the Makata plain, ii. 262. - Halts at Uziraha, ii. 263. - Returns to Zungomero, ii. 264. - Proposes a march to Kilwa, ii. 265. - Desertion of the porters, ii. 266. - Engages fresh ones, ii. 267. - Leaves Zungomero, and resumes the march, ii. 276. - Re-enters Uzaramo, ii. 277. - And Konduchi, ii. 278. - Sights the sea, ii. 278. - Sets out for Kilwa, ii. 372. - Returns to Zanzibar, ii. 379. - Leaves Zanzibar for Aden, ii. 384. - Returns to Europe, ii. 384. - - Butter in East Africa, ii. 284. - - - Cacti in the Usagara Mountains, i. 165. Of Mgunda M’Khali, 286. - - Calabash-tree of East Africa, described, i. 147. In the Usagara - mountains, i. 164, 229. Magnificence of, at Ugogo, 260. The only large - tree in Ugogo, 299. - - Camp furniture required for the expedition, i. 152. - - Cannibalism of the Wadoe tribe, i. 123. Of the people of Murivumba, - ii. 114. - - Cannabis Indica in Unyamwezi, i. 318. - - Canoes built of mvule trees, ii. 147. Mode of making them, 147. - - Canoes on the Malagarazi river, i. 409. On the “Ghaut,” 411. - - Capparis sodata, verdure of the, in Ugogo, i. 300. - - Carriage, cost of, in East Africa, ii. 414. - - Caravans of ivory, i. 17. Slave caravans, 17, 62. Mode of collecting a - caravan in East Africa, 143. Attacked by wild bees, 4, 176. And by - small-pox, 179. In East Africa, description of, 337. Porters, 337-339. - Seasons for travelling, 339. The three kinds of caravan, 341. That of - the Wanyamwezi, 341. Those made up by the Arab merchants, 342. Those - of the Wasawahili, &c., 344. Sketch of a day’s march of an East - African caravan, 344. Mode of forming a caravan, 348. Dress of the - caravan, 349. Ornaments and arms worn by the porters, 349. Recreations - of the march, 350. Meeting of two caravans, 351. Halt of a caravan, - 351. Lodgings on the march, 353. Cooking, 355, 356. Greediness of the - porters, 356, 357. Water, 359. Night, 359. Dances of the porters, 360. - Their caravan, 361, 362. Rate of caravan travelling, 362. Custom - respecting caravans in Central Africa, ii. 54. Those on the Uruwwa - route, 148. Accident to a, 270. - - Carissa Carandas, the Corinda bush in Uzaramo, i. 60. - - Carpentering in East Africa, ii. 309. - - Carvings, rude, of the Wanyamwezi, ii. 26. - - Castor plants of East Africa, i. 48. Mode of extracting the oil, 48. - - Cats, wild, in Unyamwezi, ii. 15. - - Cattle, horned, of Ujiji, ii. 59. Of Karagwah, 181. - - Cattle trade of East Africa, ii. 413. - - Cereals of East Africa, ii. 414. - - Ceremoniousness of the Wajiji, ii. 69. - - Ceremony and politeness, miseries of, in the East, i. 392. - - Cha K’henge, halt of the party at, i. 167. - - Chamærops humilis, or Nyara tree, of the Mrima, f. 48. - - Chawambi, Sultan of Unyoro, ii. 198. - - Chhaga, ii. 179. - - Chiefs of the Wazaramo, i. 113. - - Chikichi, or palm oil, trade in, at Wafanya, ii. 107. - - Childbirth, ceremonies of, in Unyamwezi ii. 23. Twins, 23. - - Children, mode of carrying, in Uzaramo, i. 110. - - Children, Wasagara mode of carrying, i. 237. - - Children, mode of carrying amongst the Wanyamwezi, ii. 22. - - Children, education of, in Unyamwezi, ii. 23, 24. - - Chomwi, or headman, of the Wamrima, i. 16. His privileges, 16, 17. - - Chumbi, isle of, i. 1. - - Chunga Mchwa, or ant, of the sweet red clay of East Africa, described, - i. 201, 202. - - Chungo-fundo or siyafu, or pismires of the river banks of East Africa, - described, i. 186. - - Chyámbo, the locale of the coast Arabs, i. 397. - - Circumcision, not practised by the Wazaramo, i. 108. Nor in the - Unyamwezi, ii. 23. - - Clay chewed, when tobacco fails, in Unyamwezi, ii. 28. - - Climate of-- - Bomani, i. 49. - Dut’humi, i. 89, 92. - East Africa, during the wet season, i. 379. - Inenge, i. 208. - Kajjanjeri, ii. 403. - Karagwah, ii. 180. - Kawele, ii. 130. - Kirira, i. 394. - Kuingani, i. 44. - Marenga Mk’hali, i. 203. - Mrima, i. 102, 104. - Msene, i. 400. - Mohama, i. 179. - Mzizi Mdogo, i. 161. - Rumuma, i. 199. - Sorora, i. 401. - Tanganyika Lake, i. 142. - Ugogo, i. 243, 259, 297. - Ujiji, ii. 81. - Unyamwezi, ii. 8-14. - Usagara, i. 221, 222, 231. - Wafanya, ii. 107. - Zungomero, i. 94, 127, 156, 161, 163. - - Cloth, mode of carrying, in the expedition, i. 145. As an article of - commerce, 148. - - Clothing required for the expedition, i. 154. Of travellers in East - Africa, ii. 201. - - Clouds in Unyamwezi, ii. 12. - - Cockroaches in houses in East Africa, i. 370. - - Cocoa-nut, use of the, in East Africa, i. 36. - - Cocoa-tree, its limits inland, i. 160. - - Coffee, wild, or mwami, of Karagwah, ii. 180, 181, 187. - - Commando, pitiable scene presented after one, i. 185. - - Commerce of the Mrima, i. 39. Of Zungomero, 95. Of Uzaramo, 119. Of - Ugogo, 308. Of the Wanyamwezi, ii. 29. Of the Nyanza Lake, 215. - African, 224. Of Ubena, 270. Of Uvira, ii. 120. Of East Africa, 387. - - Conversation, specimen of, in East Africa, ii. 243, 244. - - Copal tree, or Msandarusi, of Uzaramo, i. 63. - - Copal trade of East Africa, ii. 403. - - Copper in Katata, ii. 148. In East Africa, 312. - - Cotton in Unyamwezi, i. 318. In Ujiji, i. 57. In East Africa, 417. - - Cowhage on the banks of the Mgeta river, i. 166. - - Cowries of Karagwah, ii. 185. Of East Africa, 416. - - Crickets of the Usagara mountains, i. 162. House, in East Africa, - i. 370. - - Crocodiles of the Kingani river, i. 56. In Unyamwezi, ii. 15. In the - Sea of Ujiji, 60. Of the Ruche River, 158. - - Crops of the Mrima, i. 102, _et seq_. - - Cucumbers at Marenga Mk’hali, i. 201. Wild, of Unyanyembe, ii. 285. - - Cultivation in the Mukondokwa hills, i. 196, 197. In the Usagara - mountains, 229. - - Currency of East Africa, stock may be recruited at Kazeh, i. 334. Of - Msene, i. 398. Of Ujiji, ii. 73. Of Karagwah, 185. Of Ubena, 270. - Cynhyænas of Ugogo, i. 302. In Unyamwezi, ii. 15. - - Cynocephalus, the, in Unyamwezi, ii. 15. The terror of the country, - 15. - - - Dancing of the Wazaramo women, i. 55. African, described, 360; - ii. 291, 298. - - Darwayash, the Baloch, sketch of him, i. 137. - - “Dash,” i. 58. _See_ Blackmail. - - Datura plant of Zungomero, i. 95. Smoked in East Africa, 96. In - Unyamwezi, 318. - - Day, an African’s mode of passing the, ii. 289, 290. - - Death, African fear of, ii. 331. - - Defences of the Wazaramo, i. 111, 117. - - Dege la Mhora, “the large jungle bird,” village of, i. 72. Fate of M. - Maizan at, 73. - - Det’he, or Kidete of East Africa, ii. 293. - - Devil’s trees of East Africa, ii. 353. - - Dialects of the Wazaramo, i. 107. The Wagogo, 306. The Wahumba, 311. - The Wanyamwezi, ii. 5. The Wakimbu, 20. The Wanyamwezi, 30. - - Diseases of the maritime region of East Africa, i. 105. Of the people - of Usagara, 233. Of Ugogo, 299. Of caravans in East Africa, 342. Of - Unyamwezi, ii. 11, 13, 14. Of East Africa, 318. Remedies, 321. - Mystical remedies, 352, 353. - - Dishdasheh, El, or turban of the coast Arabs, i. 32. - - Divorce amongst the Wazaramo, i. 118. Amongst the East Africans - generally, ii. 333. - - Drawing materials required for the expedition, i. 155. - - Dress, articles of, of the East Africans, i. 148. Of the Wamrima, 33, - 34. Of the Wazaramo, 109. Of the Wak’hutu, 120. Of the Wasagara, 253. - Of the Wahete, 239. Of the Wagogo, 305. Of the Wahumba, 312. Of the - Wakalaganza, 406. Of the Wakimbu, ii. 20. Of the Wanyamwezi, 21. Of - the Wajiji, 64. Of the Warundi, 146. Of the Wavinza, 75. Of the - Watuta, 77. Of the Wabuta, 78. Of the people of Karagwah, 182. Of the - Wahinda, 220. Of the Warori, 271. - - Dodges of the ferrymen, ii. 164, 165. - - Dragon-flies in Unyamwezi, ii. 18. - - Drinking-bouts in East Africa, ii. 295, 335. - - Drinking-cups in East Africa, ii. 295. - - Drums and drumming of East Africa, ii. 295. - - Drunkenness of the Wazaramo, i. 118. Of the Wak’hutu, 120. And - debauchery of the people of Msene, 398. Prevalence of, near the Lake - Tanganyika, ii. 59. Of the Wajiji, 69. - - Dogs, wild, in Unyamwezi, ii. 16. Pariah, in the villages of Ujiji, - 60. Rarely heard to bark, 60. - - Dolicos pruriens on the banks of the Mgeta river, i. 166. - - Donkey-men of the expedition, i. 143. - - Dub-grass in the Usagara mountains, i. 171. - - Dunda, or “the Hill,” district of, i. 54. - - Dunda Nguru, or “Seer fish-bill” i. 69. - - Dungomaro, or Mandama, river, arrival of the caravan at the, i. 222. - Description of the bed of the, 223. - - Dut’humi, mountain crags of, i. 65, 83, 86. Illness of the chiefs of - the expedition at, 84. Description of the plains of, 86. - - - Eagles, fish, of Ujiji, ii. 60. - - Ear-lobes distended by the Wasagara, i. 235. And by the Wahehe, 239. - By the Wagogo, 304. And by the Wahumba, 312. Enlarged by the - Wanyamwezi, ii. 21. - - Earth-fruit of India, i. 198. - - Earthquakes in Unyamwezi, ii. 13. - - Earwigs in East African houses, i. 370. - - Ebb and flow of the Tanganyika Lake, ii. 143. Causes of, 143, 144. - - Education of children in Unyamwezi, ii. 23, 24. - - Eels of the Tanganyika Lake, ii. 68. - - Eggs not eaten by the Wanyamwezi, ii. 29. Nor by the people of Ujiji, - 59. - - Elæis Guiniensis, or Mehikichi tree, in Ujiji, ii. 58. - - Elephants at Dut’humi, i. 87. In Ugogi, 242. At Ziwa, or the Pond, - 251. On the road to Ugogo, 247. On the Mgunda Mk’hali, 287, 289. In - Ugogo, 300. On the banks of the Malagarazi river, 408. In Unyamwezi, - ii. 15. Near the sea of Ujiji, 60. In East Africa, 297. - - Elephant hunting in East Africa, ii. 298. - - English, the, bow regarded in Africa, i. 31. - - Erhardt, M., his proposed expedition to East Africa, i. 3. - - Ethnology of East Africa, i. 106. Of the second region, 225, _et seq._ - - Euphorbiæ at Mb’hali, i. 401. In Ugogo, 300. In the Usagara mountains, - i. 165. - - Evil eye unknown to the Wazaramo, i. 116. - - Exorcism in East Africa, ii. 352. - - - Falsehood of the coast clans of East Africa, i. 37. General in East - Africa, ii. 328. - - Faraj, sketch of him and his wife, the lady Halimah, i. 129. - - Fauna of Ujiji, ii. 60. - - Fetiss-huts of the Wazaramo described, i. 57. Of East Africa, 369; - ii. 346. - - Fetissism of East Africa, ii. 341, _et seq._ - - Fever, marsh, cure in Central Asia for, i. 82. The author prostrated - by, 84. Delirium of, 84. Of East Africa generally described, 105. The - author and his companion again attacked by, at Muhama, 179. Common in - the Usagara mountains, 233. Seasoning fever of East Africa, generally, - 379. Miasmatic, described, 403. Low type, 406. Seasoning fever at - Unyamwezi described, ii. 14. - - Fire-arms and Gunpowder in East Africa, ii. 308. - - Fires in Africa, ii. 259. - - Fish of the Kingani river, i. 56. Of the Tanganyika Lake, ii. 59. - Varieties of, 67. Narcotised in Uzaramo, 67. At Wafanya, 108. - Considered as an article of diet in East Africa, 280. - - Fishing in the Tanganyika Lake, ii. 66. - - Fisi, or cynhyæna, of Uzaramo, i. 63. The scavenger of the country, - i. 64. - - Flies in Unyamwezi, ii. 18. Fatal bite of one in, 19. - - Flowers of Usagara, i. 328. At Msene, 397. - - Fly, a stinging, the tzetze, i. 187. - - Fog-rainbow in the Usagara mountains, i. 222. - - Food of the Wamrima, i. 35. Of the Wazaramo, 56. Of the people of - Zungomero, 95, 96, 97. Of the Wak’hutu, 120. Of the expedition, 151, - 198. Of the people of Marenga Mk’hali, 201. Of the Wagogo, 310, 311. - Of Rubuga, 317. Of Kazeh, 329. Of Arabs of, 331-334. Of Wilyanhuru, - 392-394. Of Unyamwezi, ii. 28, 29. Of Ujiji, 70, 88. Of Karagwah, 180, - 181. Of Uganda, 196, 197. Of the Warori tribe, 273. East Africa - generally, 280. - - Fords in East Africa, i. 336. - - Fowls not eaten by the Wanyamwezi, ii. 29. Nor by the people of Ujiji, - 59. - - Frankincense of Ugogo, i. 299. - - Frogs in Unyamwezi, ii. 17. Night concerts of, 17. Of the sea of - Ujiji, 61. - - Frost, Mr., of the Zanzibar consulate, i. 3, 21. - - Fruits of East Africa, i. 48, 201. Of Usagara, 228. Of Yombo, 337. Of - Mb’hali, 401. Of Ujiji, ii. 58. - - Fundi, or itinerant slave-artizans of Unyanyembe, i. 328. Caravans of - the, 344. - - Fundikira, Sultan of Unyamwezi, notice of him, ii. 31. - - Fundikira, Sultan of Ititenza, i. 326. - - Funerals of the Wazaramo, i. 119. Of the Wadoe, 124. - - Funza, brother of Sultan Matanza of Msene, i. 396. - - Furniture of East African houses, i. 371. Kitanda, or bedstead, 371. - Bedding, 371. Of the houses of the Wanyamwezi, ii. 26. - - - Gadflies, annoyance of, at K’hok’ho, i. 276. - - Gaetano, the Goanese servant, sketch of his character, i. 131. Taken - ill, 380. His epileptic fits at Msene, 395, 399. - - Gama river, i. 123. - - Gambling in East Africa, ii. 279. - - Game in Uzaramo, i. 59, 71. In the Doab of the Mgeta river, 81. In - K’huta, 120. In the plains between the Rufuta and the Mukondokwa - mountains, 181. In Ugogi, 242. At Ziwa, or the Pond, 251. At Kanyenye, - 268. Scarcity of, in East Africa generally, 268. - - Ganza Mikono, sultan of Usek’he, i. 272. - - Geography of the second region, i. 225, _et seq_. Of Ugogo, 295. Arab - oral, ii. 144-154. - - Geology of the maritime region of East Africa, i. 102. Of the Usagara - mountains, 227. Of the road to Ugogo, 247. Of Mgunda Mk’hali, - i. 282-284. Of Ugogo, i. 295. Of Unyamwezi, ii. 6. - - Ghost-faith of the Africans, ii. 344. - - Gingerbread tree, described, i. 47. - - Ginyindo, march to, ii. 253. Quarrel of the Baloch and porters at, - 253. - - Giraffes in Ugogi, i. 242. Native names of the, 242, 243. Use made of - them, 243. At Ziwa, or the Pond, 251. On the Mgunda Mk’hali, 289. In - Unyamwezi, ii. 15. - - Girls of the Wanyamwezi, strange custom of the, ii. 24. - - Gnus in the Doab of the Mgeta river, i. 81. At Dut’humi, 87. - - Goats of Ujiji, ii. 59. - - Goma pass, the, i. 168, 170. - - Gombe, mud-fish in the nullah of, i. 334. - - Gombe Nullah, i. 395, 397, 401, 403, ii. 8. - - Goose, ruddy, Egyptian, i. 317. - - Gourd, the, a musical instrument in East Africa, ii. 294. - - Gourds of the Myombo tree in Usagara, i. 229. - - Government of the Wazaramo, i. 113. Of the Wak’hutu, 120, 121. Of the - Wanyamwezi, ii. 31. Of the Wajiji, 71. Of the northern kingdoms of - Africa, 174. Mode of, in Uganda, 192. Forms of, in East Africa, 360. - - Grain, mode of grinding, in East Africa, i. 111, 372. That of Msene, - 397, 398. Of Ujiji, ii. 57. - - Grapes, wild, seen for the first time, ii. 41. - - Grasses of the swamps and marshes of the Mrima, i. 103, 104. The dub - of the Usagara mountains, 171. - - Graveyards, absence of, in East Africa, ii. 25. - - Ground-fish of the Tanganyika Lake, ii. 68. - - Ground-nut oil in East Africa, ii. 285. - - Grouse, sand, at Ziwa, i. 251. - - Guest welcome, or hishmat l’il gharib, of the Arabs of Kazeh, i. 329. - - Gugu-mbua, or wild sugar-cane, i. 71. - - Guinea-fowls in the Doab of the Mgeta river, i. 81. Of the Rufuta - plains, 183. Of Ugogi, 242. - - Guinea-palm of Ujiji, ii. 58. - - Gul Mohammed, a Baloch of the party, sketch of him, i. 139. His - conversation with Muzungu Mbaya, ii. 244. - - Gulls, sea, of the sea of Ujiji, ii. 60. - - Gungu, district of, in Ujiji, ii. 53. Its former and present chiefs, - 53. Plundered by the Watuta tribe, 76. - - - Hail-storms in Unyamwezi, ii. 10. - - Hair, mode of dressing the, amongst the Wazaramo, i. 108. And the - Wak’hutu, 120. Wasagara fashions of dressing the, 234. Wagogo mode, - 304. Amongst the Wanyamwezi, ii. 26. Wabuha mode of dressing the, 78. - And in Uganda, 189. - - Halimah, the lady, sketch of, i. 129. Taken ill, 200. Returns home, - ii. 277. - - Hamdan, Sayyid, of Zanzibar, his death, i. 2. - - Hamerton, Lieut.-Col., his friendship with the late Sultan of - Zanzibar, i. 2. Interest taken by him in the expedition, 3. His - objections to an expedition into the interior _viâ_ Kilwa, 5. His - death, 66. His character, 69. - - Hamid bin Salim, his journey to the Wahumba tribe, i. 311. - - Hammals of the Wanyamwezi, character of the, ii. 162. - - Hammam, or primitive form of the lamp-bath, i. 82. - - Hanga, journey to, ii. 232. Difficulties with the porters there, 232. - - Hartebeest in the Doab of the Mgeta river, i. 81. - - Hawks of the Usagara mountains, i. 162. - - Hembe, or “the wild buffalo’s horn,” his village, i. 72. - - Hides, African mode of dressing, i. 236. - - Hilal bin Nasur, his information respecting the southern provinces, - ii. 228. - - Hippopotami on the east coast of Africa, i. 9, 12, 24, 56. In - Unyamwezi, ii. 15. In the Ruche river, 52, 158. In the sea of Ujiji, - 60. - - Hishmat l’il gharib, or guest welcome of the Arabs of Kazeh, i. 323, - 329. - - Hogs of Ugogo, i. 300. - - Home, African attachment for, ii. 333. - - Honey in Ujiji, ii. 59. Abundance of, in East Africa, 287. Two kinds - of, 288. - - Houses of Kuingani, i. 43. The wayside, or kraals, 53, 181, 230. Of - the Wak’hutu, 97, 121. Of the Wazaramo, 110. Of the Wagogo, 306. Of - the Arabs in Unyanyembe, 328, 329. Of stone, ignored by Inner Africa, - 93. Of the country beyond Marenga Mk’hali, called “Tembe,” 207. The - Tembe of the Wahete, 240. The Khambi or, Kraal, 354. The Tembe of the - Usagara, 366. Houses of East Africa generally described, 364, ii. 334. - Pests of the houses, i. 370. Furniture, 371. Of the Wanyamwezi, - ii. 26. Of Karagwah, 182, 183. - - Hullak, the buffoon, i. 46. - - Hunting season in East Africa, ii. 296. - - Hyænas in Ugogo, i. 276. In Ujiji, ii. 60. - - Hyderabad, story of the police officer of, i. 217. - - - Ibanda, second sultan of Ukerewe, ii. 214. - - Id, son of Muallim Salim, his civility at Msene, i. 399. - - Iguanas of the Usagara mountains, i. 162. - - Ihara or Kwihara, physical features of the plain of, i. 326. - - Ikuka of Uhehe, march to, ii. 252. - - Illness of the whole party at Ujiji, ii. 85, 86. - - Immigration in Central Africa, ii. 19. - - Imports and exports in East Africa, ii. 387. - - Indian Ocean, evening on the, i. 1. View of the Mrima from the, 8. - - Industry, commercial, of the Wanyamwezi, ii. 29. - - Inenge, basin of, i. 208. Halt at the, 208. - - Influenza, the, in Unyamwezi, ii. 13. - - Influenza, remedy in East Africa for, i. 96. - - Inhospitality of Africans, ii. 131, 327. - - Inhumanity of the Africans, ii. 329. - - Insects in East Africa, i. 186, 187, 201, 202. In houses in East - Africa, 370. In Ujiji, ii. 61. - - Instruments required for the expedition, i. 153. Breakage of, on the - road, 169. Accidents to which they are liable in East African travels, - 189, 191. - - Intellect of the East African, ii. 337. - - Iron in Karagwah, ii. 185. In Urori, 27. And in Ubena, 27. Of East - Africa generally, 311. - - Ironga, sultan of U’ungu, defeats the Warori, ii. 75. - - Ironware of Uvira, ii. 121. - - Irora, village of, i. 389. Halt at, 389. Sultan of, 389. Return to, - ii. 166. - - Irrigation, artificial, in K’hutu, i. 86. - - Isa bin Hijji, the Arab merchant, exchange of civilities with, i. 208, - 211. Places a tembe at Kazeh at the disposal of the party, 323. - - Isa bin Hosayn, the favourite of the Sultan of Uganda, ii. 193. - - Ismail, the Baloch, illness of, i. 381. - - Ititenya, settlement of, i. 326. - - Ivory, caravan of, i. 17. Frauds perpetrated on the owners of tusks, - 17. Mode of buying and selling in East Africa, 39. Touters of - Zungomero, 97. Mode of carrying large tusks of, 341, 348. Price of, - at Uvira, ii. 120, 121. Ivory of Ubena, 270. Trade in Ivory, 408. - - Iwanza, or public-houses, in Unyamwezi, ii. 1, 27. Described, 27, 279, - 285. - - Iwemba, province of, ii. 153. - - - Jackal, silver, of Ugogi, i. 242. - - Jambeho, arrival of the party at the settlements of, ii. 36. - Cultivation of, 36. Scarcity of food in, 36. Revisited, 163. - - Jami of Harar, Shaykh, of the Somal, i. 33. - - Jamshid, Sayyid, of Zanzibar, his death, i. 2. - - Jasmine, the, in Usagara, i. 228. - - Jealousy of the Wazaramo, i. 61. - - Jelai, Seedy, the Baloch, sketch of him, i. 137. - - Jezirah, island of, ii. 212. - - Jiwe la Mkoa, or the round rock, arrival of the party at, i. 286. - Description of it, 287; ii. 242. Halt at, 242. - - Jiweni, arrival of the expedition at, i. 289. Water at, 289. - - Jongo, or millepedes, in Unyamwezi, ii. 18. - - Jua, Dar el, or home of hunger, i. 69. - - Juma Mfumbi, Diwan of Saadani, his exaction of tribute from the Wadoe, - i. 123. - - Jungle, insect pests of the, i. 186. Fire in the jungle in summer, - ii. 163. - - Jungle-thorn, on the road to Ugogo, i. 246. Near Kanyenye, 271. - - - Kadetamare, arrival of the party at, i. 189. Loss of instruments at, - 189, 190. - - Kaffirs of the Cape, date of their migration to the banks of the Kei, - ii. 5. - - Kafuro, district of, in Karagwah, ii. 177. - - Kajjanjeri, village of, arrival of the party at, i. 403. Deadly - climate of, 403. - - Kannena, headman of Kawele, visit to, ii. 81. Description of him, 81. - His mode of opening trade, 82. His ill-will, 83, 84. Agrees to take - the party to the northern extremity of the lake, 93. His surly and - drunken conduct, 97. Starts on the voyage, 98. His covetousness, 109. - His extravagance, 120. His drunkenness and fate, 156. - - Kanoni, sultan of the Wahha tribe, ii. 79. - - Kanoni, minor chief of Wafanya, visit from, ii. 107. His blackmail, - 107. Outrage committed by his people, 124. - - Kanyenye, country of, described, i. 265. Blackmail at, 265. Sultan - Magomba of, 265. - - Kaole, settlement of, described, i. 12, 13. The landing place of the - expedition, 22. - - Karagwah, kingdom of, ii. 177. Extent of, 177. Boundaries of, 178. - Climate of, 180. People of, 181. Dress of, 182. Weapons of, 182. - Houses of, 182. Sultan of, 183. Government of, 183. - - Karagwah, mountains of, ii. 48, 144, 177. - - Kariba, river, ii. 146. - - Karindira, river, ii. 146. - - Karungu, province of, ii. 149. - - Kasangare, a Mvinza sultan, his subjects, i. 328. - - Kaskazi, or N. E. monsoon, i. 83. - - Kata, or sand-grouse, at Ziwa, i. 251. - - Katata, or Katanga, copper in, ii. 148. - - Katonga, river, ii. 187. - - Kawele, principal village of Ujiji, ii. 53. Attacked by the Watuta - tribe, ii. 76. Return of the expedition to, 126. - - Kaya, or fenced hamlets, i. 407. - - Kazeh, arrival at, i. 321, 322. Abdullah bin Salih’s caravan plundered - at, 321. Hospitality of the Arabs there, 323. Revisited, ii. 167. - - Kazembe, sultan of Usenda, ii. 148. Account of him, 148. - - Khalfan bin Muallim Salim, commands an up caravan, i. 179. His caravan - attacked by small-pox, 179, 201. His falsehoods, 179. Spreads - malevolent reports at Ugogo, 262. - - Khalfan bin Khamis, his penny wise economy, i. 288. Bids adieu to the - caravan, 291. Overtaken half-way to Unyanyembe, 221. His civility at - Msene, 399. - - Khambi, or substantial kraals, of the wayside described, i. 53, 134. - - Khamisi, Muinyi, and the lost furniture, ii. 168. - - K’hok’ho, in Ugogo, dangers of, i. 272, 274. Its tyrant sultan, 274. - Insect annoyances at, 276. - - Khudabakhsh, the Baloch, sketch of him, i. 138. His threats to murder - the author, 174. His illness in the Windy Pass, 214. His conduct at - Wafanya, ii. 110. Reaches Kawele by land, 111. - - K’hutu, expedition enters the country of, i. 86. Irrigation in, 86. - Hideous and grotesque vegetation of, 91. Climate of, 92. Salt-pits of, - 92. Country of, described, 119. Roads in, 335. Return to, ii. 264. - Desolation of, 264. - - K’hutu, river i. 86. - - Kibaiba river, ii. 146. - - Kibuga, in Uganda, distance from the Kitangure river to, ii. 186. Road - to, 186, 187. Described, 188. - - Kibuya, sultan of Mdabura, blackmail of, i. 279. Description of him, - 279. - - Kichyoma-chyoma, “the little irons,” Captain Speke afflicted with, - ii. 234. The disease described, 320. - - Kidogo, Muinyi, sketch of him, i. 140. His hatred of Said bin Salim, - 164. His advice to the party at Marenga Mk’hali, 203. His words of - wisdom on the road to Ugogo, 250. His management, 254. His quarrel - with Said bin Salim, 255. Makes oath at Kanyenye, that the white man - would not smite the land, 267. Loses his heart to a slave girl, 314. - His demands at Kazeh, 377. Dismissed at Sorora, 402. Flogs Sangora, - 403. Sent home, ii. 277. - - Kidunda, or the “little hill,” camping ground of, i. 79. Scenery of, - 79. - - Kifukuru, delay of the caravan at, i. 264. Question of blackmail at, - 264. Sultan of, 264. - - Kigari, on the Tanganyika Lake, halt of the party at, ii. 101. - - Kigwa, or Mkigwa, halt of the caravan at, i. 319. The ill-omened - forest of, 319. Sultan Manwa, 319. - - Kikoboga, basin of, traversed, ii. 262. - - Kikoboga river, ii. 263. - - Kilwa, dangers of, as an ingress point, i. 4, 5. - - Kimanu, the sultan of Ubena, ii. 270. - - Kinanda, or harp, of East Africa, ii. 298. - - Kinawani, village of, arrival of the caravan at, ii. 35. - - Kindunda, “the hillock,” i. 64. - - Kinganguku, march to, ii. 251. - - Kingani river described, i. 56. Valley of the, 56. Hippopotami and - crocodiles of the, 56. Fish of the, 56. Its malarious plain, 69. Rise - of the, 87. - - Kingfishers on the lake of Tanganyika, ii. 61. - - Kipango, or tzetze fly, of East Africa, i. 187. - - Kiperepeta, march to, ii. 256. - - Kiranga-Ranga, the first dangerous station in Uzaramo, i. 59. - - Kirangozi, guide or guardian, carried by mothers in Uzaramo, i. 116. - - Kirangozi, or guide of the caravan, his wrath, i. 221. Description of - one, 346. Meeting of two, 351. His treatment of his slave girl, - ii. 161. His fear of travelling northward, 172. - - Kiringawana mountains, i. 233. - - Kiringawana route in the Usagara mountains described, ii. 249. - - Kiringawana, sultan, ii. 258. - - Kirira, halt of the party at, i. 392. Hospitality of an Arab merchant - at, 392-394. Climate of, 394. - - Kiruru, or “palm leaves,” village of, i. 82. - - Kirurumo, on the Mgunda Mk’hali, i. 289. Water obtained at, 289. - - Kisanga, basin of, described, ii. 257. - - Kisabengo, the chief headman of Inland Magogoni, i. 88. Account of his - depredations, 88. - - Kisawahili language, remarks on the, i. 15, _note_; ii. 198. - - Kisesa, sultan, his blackmail, ii. 114. - - Kitambi, sultan of Uyuwwi, recovers part of the stolen papers, i. 320. - - Kitangure, or river of Karagwah, i. 409; ii. 144, 177, 186. - - Kiti, or stool, of East Africa, i. 373. - - Kittara, in Kingoro, road to, ii. 187. Wild coffee of, 187. - - Kivira river, ii. 197. - - Kiyombo, sultan of Urawwa, ii. 147. - - Kizaya, the P’hazi, i. 54. Accompanies the expedition a part of their - way, 55. - - Knobkerries of Africa, ii. 306. - - Kombe la Simba, the P’hazi, i. 54. - - Konduchi, march to, ii. 274. Revisited, 276. - - Koodoo, the, at Dut’humi, i. 87. - - Koodoo horn, the bugle of East Africa, i. 203. - - Kraals of thorn, in the Usagara mountains, i. 230. Of East Africa, - 354. - - Krapf, Dr., result of his mission, i. 6. His information, 7. His - etymological errors, 36, _note_. - - Kuhonga, or blackmail, at Ugogo, i. 252. Account of the blackmail of - East Africa, 253. - - Kuingani, “the cocoa-nut plantation near the sea,” i. 42. Described, - 43. Houses of, 43. Climate of, 44. - - Kumbeni, isles of, i. 1. - - Kuryamavenge river, ii. 146. - - Kwale, halt at the nullah of, i. 315. - - Kwihanga, village of, described, i. 396. - - - Ladha Damha, pushes the expedition forward, i. 11. His conversation - with Ramji, 23. - - Lakes,--Nyanza, or Ukerewe, i. 311, 409, ii. 175, 176, 179, 195. - Tanganyika, ii. 42, _et seq._; 134, _et seq._ Mukiziwa, ii. 147. - - Lakit, Arab law of, i. 258. - - Lamp-bath of Central Asia, i. 82. - - Land-crabs in the Doab of the Mgeta river, i. 81. - - Language of the Wagogo, i. 306. Of the Wahumba, 311. Of the - Wanyamwezi, ii. 5. Of the Wakimbu, 20. Of the Wanyamwezi, 30. - Specimens of the various dialects collected, 198. Of the East - Africans, 336. - - Leeches in Unyamwezi, ii. 18. - - Leopards in Ugogo, i. 302. In Unyamwezi, ii. 15. - - Leucæthiops amongst the Wazaramo, i. 109. - - Libellulæ in Unyamwezi, ii. 18. - - Lions in Uzaramo, i. 63. Signs of, on the road, 172. In Ugogo, 300, - 301. In Unyamwezi, ii. 15. - - Lizards in the houses in East Africa, i. 371. - - Locusts, or nzige, flights of, in Unyamwezi, ii. 18. Varieties of, 18. - Some considered edible, 18. - - Lodgings on the march in East Africa, i. 353. In Ugogo, 354. In - Unyamwezi, 354. In Uvinza, 354. At Ujiji, 351. - - Looms in Unyamwezi, i. 318; ii. 1. - - Lues in East Africa, ii. 321. - - Lunar Mountains, ii. 48, 144. - - Lurinda, chief of Gungu, ii. 53. Supplies a boat on the Tanganyika - lake, 87. Enters into brotherhood with Said bin Salim, ii. 125. - - Lying, habit of, of the African, ii. 328. - - - Mabruki, Muinyi, henchman in the expedition, sketch of the character - of, i. 130. His slave boy, ii. 162. His bad behaviour, 173. - - Mabruki Pass, descent of the, ii. 263. - - Mabunguru fiumara, i. 283. Shell-fish and Silurus of the, 284. Arrival - of the party at the, 285. - - Macaulay, Lord, quoted, i. 393. - - Machunda, chief sultan of Ukerewe, ii. 214. - - Madege Madogo, the “little birds,” district of, i. 79. - - Madege Mkuba, “the great birds,” district of, i. 79. - - Magic, black, or Ucháwi, how punished by the Wazaramo, i. 113, 265. - Mode of proceeding for ascertaining the existence of, ii. 32. _See_ - Mganga. - - Magogoni, inland, country of, i. 87. - - Magomba, sultan of Kanyenye, i. 265. Blackmail levied by, 265. - Interview with him and his court, 266. Description of him, 266. - - Magugi, in Karagwah, ii. 177. - - Maizan, M., his death, i. 6. Sketch of his career, 73. - - Maji m’ote, or “hot water” ant, of East Africa, i. 187. - - Maji ya W’heta, or jetting water, the thermal spring of, i. 159. - Return to, ii. 264. - - Majid, Sayyid, sultan of Zanzibar, i. 2. Gives letters of introduction - to the author, 3. - - Makata tank, i. 181. Forded by the expedition, 181. Return to, ii. - 262. - - Makata plain, march over the, ii. 261. - - Makimoni, on the Tanganyika lake, ii. 126. - - Makutaniro, adventures at, i. 69. - - Malagarazi river, i. 334, 337. ii. 36, 39, 47, 49. First sighted by - the party, 407. Described, 408, 409. Courses of the, 409. Crossed, - 410. Return of the party to the, 164. - - Mallok, the Jemadar, sketch of his character and personal appearance, - i. 133. His desertion, and return, 173. Becomes troublesome, 381, 382. - His refusal to go northwards, ii. 172. Influence of bakhshish, 172. - Sent home, ii. 277. - - Mamaletua, on the Tanganyika lake, halt of the party at, ii. 115. - Civility of the people of, 115. - - M’ana Miaha, sultan of K’hok’ho, i. 272. Description of him, 274. - His extortionate blackmail, 274. - - Mananzi, or pine-apple, of East Africa, i. 66. - - Manda, the petty chief at Dut’humi, i. 89. Expedition sent against - him, 89. - - Mandama, or Dungomaro, river, arrival of the caravan at the, i. 222. - Description of the bed of the, 223. - - Mangrove forest on the east coast of Africa, i. 9. Of the Uzaramo, 62. - - Manners and customs of the Wamrima, i. 35, 37. Of the Wasawahili, 37. - Of the Wazaramo, 108 _et seq._ Of the Wak’hutu, 120. Of the Wadoe, - 124. Of the Wasagara, 235. Of the Wagogo, 309, 310. Of the Wahumba, - 312. Of the Wanyamwesi, ii. 23. Of the Wambozwa, 152. - - Mansanza, sultan of Msene, i. 396. His hospital, 396. His firm rule, - 396. His wives, 396, 399. His visits to the author, 399. - - Manufactures of Msene, i. 398. - - Manyora, fiumara of, i. 80. - - Manwa, Sultan of Kigwa, his murders and robberies, i. 319. His - adviser, Mansur, 319. - - Maraim, Abd, or Washhenzi, the, i. 30. - - Mariki, sultan of Uyonwa, ii. 78. - - Marema, sultan, at the Ziwa, i. 254. - - Marenga Mk’hali, or “brackish water,” river, i. 200, 201, 259. Climate - of, 203. Upper, water of the, 247, 271. - - Maroro, basin of, its fertility, ii. 254. The place described, 255. - - Maroro river, i. 231. - - Marriage amongst the Wazaramo, i. 118. In Unyamwezi, ii. 24. In East - Africa generally, 332. - - Marsh fever, i. 82, 84. Delirium of, 84. - - Martins in the Rufuta plains, i. 183. In Unyamwezi, ii. 17. - - “Marts,” custom of, in South Africa, ii. 54. - - Marungu, land of, ii. 149. Provinces of, 149. Roads in, 149. - Description of the country, 150. History of an Arab caravan in, 151. - People of, 152. - - Maruta, sultan of Uvira, ii. 116. Visit from his sons, 117. - Description of them, 117. His blackmail, 120. - - Masenza, arrival of the party at the village of, i. 406, 407. - - Masika, or rainy season, in the second region, i. 231, 232. Of East - Africa, 378. - - Mason-wasps of the houses in East Africa, i. 370. - - Masud ibn Musallam el Wardi, sent to Msimbira to recover the stolen - papers, i. 325. His hospitality, 392. - - Masui, village of, ii. 229, 231. - - Masury, M. Sam., his kindness to the author, i. 22. - - Mat-weaving in East Africa, ii. 316. - - Maunga Tafuna, province of, ii. 153. - - Maura, or Maula, a sultan of the Wanyamwezi, i. 316. Visits the - caravan, 316. His hospitality, 316. Description of him, 316. - - Mauta, Wady el, or Valley of Death, i. 69. - - Mawa, or plantain wine, ii. 180, 197. Mode of making, 287. - - Mawiti, colony of Arabs at, i. 326. - - Mazinga, or cannons, bee-hives so called in the interior, i. 200. - Described, 200. - - Mazita, account of, ii. 212. - - Mazungera, P’hazi of Dege la Mhora, i. 75. Murders his guest, M. - Maizan, 75, 76. Haunted by the P’hepo, or spirit of his guest, 76. - - Mbarika tree, or Palma Christi, of East Africa, i. 48. - - Mbega, or tippet-monkey, in Unyamwezi, ii. 15. - - Mb’hali, village of, described, i. 401. - - Mbembu, a kind of medlar, in Ugogo, i. 300. - - Mbogo, or Bos Caffer, in the plains of East Africa, i. 181. Described, - 181. In Ugogo, 300. On the Rusugi river, ii. 40. - - Mboni, son of Ramji, carries off a slave girl, i. 290. - - Mbono tree of East Africa, i. 48. - - Mbugani, “in the wild,” settlement of, described, i. 397. - - Mbugu, or tree-bark, used for clothing in Ujiji, ii. 64. Mode of - preparing it, 64. - - Mbumi, the deserted village, i. 185. - - Mbungo-bungo tree, a kind of nux vomica, i. 48. - - Mbuyu, or calabash tree, of East Africa, described, i. 47. - - Mchikichi tree of Ujiji, ii. 58. - - Mdaburu, trying march in the jungle of, i. 277, 278. Description of, - 279. - - Mdimu nullah, i. 88. - - Meals at Ujiji, ii. 89. In East Africa, 280, 334. - - Measures of length in East Africa, ii. 388. - - Medicine chest required for the expedition, i. 155. - - Melancholy, inexplicable, of travellers in tropical countries, - ii. 130. - - Metrongoma, a wild fruit of Yombo, i. 387. - - Mfu’uni, hill of, i. 170. Its former importance, 171. - - Mfuto mountains, i. 326. - - Mfuto, clearing of, i. 389. - - Mganga, or medicine-man of East Africa, described, i. 38. His modus - operandi, 44; ii. 358. His office as a priest, 350. As a physician, - 352. As a detector of sorcery, 356. As a rain-maker, 357. As a - prophet, 358. His minor duties, 359. - - Mganga, or witch of East Africa, i. 380. - - Mgazi river, i. 86. - - Mgege fish of the Tanganyika Lake, ii. 67. - - Mgeta river, the, i. 80, 159, 160, 166; ii. 268. Head of the, 80. - Mode of crossing the swollen river, 80. Pestilence of the banks of - the, i. 127. Fords of the, i. 336; ii. 268. - - Mgongo T’hembo, the Elephant’s Back, arrival of the caravan at, - i. 290. Description of, 290. Inhabitants of, 290. - - Mgude, or Mparamusi, tree, described, i. 47, 60, 83. - - Mgute fish of the Tanganyika Lake, ii. 67. - - Mgunda Mk’hali, or “the Fiery Field,” i. 281. Description of, 281, - 282. Stunted vegetation of, 282. Geology of, 282. Scarcity of water - in, 283. Traversed by the caravan, 283. Features of the, 283, 292. - - Miasma of Sorora and Kajjanjeri, i. 403. - - Mikiziwa Lake, in Uguhha, ii. 147. - - Milk of cows in Ujiji, ii. 60. As food in East Africa, 283. - Preparations of, 283. - - Millepedes, or jongo, in Unyamwezi, ii. 18. - - Mimosa trees, i. 83. Flowers of the, in Usagara, 228. Trees in - Usagara, 229. In Unyamwezi, 318. Of the Usagara mountains, 165. - - Miyandozi, sultan of Kifukaru, i. 264. Levies blackmail on the - caravan, 264. - - Mji Mpia, “new town,” settlement of, described, i. 397. Bazar of, 397. - - Mkora tree, uses of the wood of the, i. 374. - - Mkorongo tree, uses of the, in East Africa, i. 374. - - Mkuba, or wild edible plum of Yombo, i. 387. - - Mkuyu, or sycamore tree, its magnificence in East Africa, i. 195. Its - two varieties, 195, 196. - - Mkwaju la Mouani, the “Tamarind in the rains,” the village of, - described, i. 52. - - Mninga tree, wood of the, i. 373. Use of the wood, 373. - - Mnya Mtaza, headman of Ukaranga, ii. 45. - - Mohammed bin Khamis, sailing-master of the Artemise, i. 8. - - Mohammed, the Baloch, the Rish Safid, or greybeard, sketch of him, - i. 134. At Kazeh, 381. - - Molongwe river, ii. 146. - - Money in East Africa, ii. 388. - - Mombas Mission, the, i. 6, 7. - - Mongo Nullah, the, i. 289. Water obtained at the, 289. - - Mongoose, the, at Dut’humi, i. 87. - - Monkeys of Muhinyera, i. 64. Of Usagara mountains, 162. In Unyamwezi, - ii. 15. - - Monkey-bread, ii. 221. - - Monsoon, the N. E., or Kaskazi, of East Africa, i. 83, 102. In - Unyamwezi, ii. 9. Origin of the S. W. monsoon, 50. Failure of the - opportunity for comparing the hygrometry of the African and Indian - monsoons, 93. - - Moon, Land of the. _See_ Unyamwezi. - - Moon, her splendour at the equator, i. 162. Halo or corona round the, - in Unyamwezi, ii. 11, 12. - - Morality, deficiency of, of the East Africans, ii. 335. - - Morus alba, the, in Uzaramo, i. 60. - - Mosquitoes of East Africa described, i. 182. On the Ruche river, - ii. 52, 158. - - Mouma islands, ii. 153. - - Moumo tree (Borassus flabelliformis), of East Africa, i. 47, 180. - Toddy drawn from, 181. - - Mountains:-- - Dut’humi, i. 65, 83, 86, 119. - Jiwe la Mkoa, i. 286, 287, 295. - Karagwah, ii. 48, 144, 177. - Kilima Ngao, ii. 179. - Kiringawana, i. 233. - Lunar, ii. 144, 178. - Mfuto, i. 326. - Mukondokwa, i. 180, 185, 194, 203, 233. - Ngu, or Nguru, i. 87, 125, 225. - Njesa, i. 226. - Rubeho, i. 203, 211, 214, 218, 245. - Rufuta, i. 167, 170, 180. - Uhha, ii. 160. - Urundi, i, 409; ii. 48. - Usagara, i. 101, 119, 159, 160, 215, 219, 225, 297. - Wahumba, i. 295. - Wigo, i. 159. - - Mountains, none in Unyamwezi, ii. 6. - - Mpagamo of Kigandu, defeated by Msimbira, i. 327. - - Mparamusi, or Mgude, tree, i. 47, 60, 83. - - Mpete, on the Malagarazi river, i. 410. - - Mpingu tree, i. 373. Uses of the wood of the, 373. - - Mporota, a den of thieves, halt at, ii. 252. - - Mrima, or “hill-land,” of the East African coast, described, i. 8, 30. - Inhabitants of, 30. Their mode of life, 35. Mode of doing business in, - 39. Vegetation of the, 47. Geography of the, 100. Climate of the, 102, - 104. Diseases of the, 105. Roads of the, 105, 106. Ethnology of the, - 106. - - Mororwa, sultan of Wilyankuru, i. 391. - - Msandarusi, or copal-tree, of Uzaramo, i. 63. - - Msene, settlement of, arrival of the party at, i. 395. Description of, - 395, 396. Sultan Masawza of, 396. Prices at, 397. Productions of, 397, - 398. Currency of, 398. Industry of, 398. Habits of the people of, 398. - Climate of, 399. - - Msimbira, sultan of the Wasukuma, i. 319. Papers of the party stolen - and carried to him, 320. Refuses to restore them, 320. Send a party to - cut off the road, 321. Defeats Sultan Mpagamo, 327. - - Msopora, Sultan, restores the stolen goods, ii. 166. - - Msufi, a silk-cotton tree, in Uzaramo, i. 60. - - Msukulio tree of Uzaramo, i. 61, 83. - - Mtanda, date of the establishment of the kingdom of, ii. 5. - - Mtego, or elephant traps, i. 287. Disappearance of the Jemadar in one, - 288. - - Mt’hipit’hipi, or Abras precatorius, seeds of, used as an ornament, - ii. 181. - - Mtogwe tree, a variety of Nux vomica, i. 48. In Unyamwezi, 318, 401. - - Mtumbara, Sultan, and his quarrel, ii. 157. - - Mtunguja tree of the Mrima, i. 48. - - Mtungulu apples in Ugogo, i. 300. - - Mtuwwa, in Ubwari island, halt of the party at, ii. 114. Blackmail at, - 112. - - Mud-fish, African mode of catching, i. 315. - - Mud-fish in the Gombe nullah, i. 334. - - Mud, Yegea, i. 83. - - Muhama, halt at the nullah of, i. 176, 178. - - Muhinna bin Sulayman of Kazeh, his arrival at Kawele, ii. 133. His - extortion, 133. - - Muhinna bin Sulayman, the Arab merchant of Kazeh, i. 323. - - Muhiyy-el-Din, Shafehi Hazi of Zanzibar, i. 7. - - Muhiyy-el-Din, Kazi, of the Wasawahili, i. 33. - - Muhonge, settlement of, described, i. 63. - - Muhonyera, district of, described, i. 63. Wild animals, 63. - - Mui’ Gumbi, Sultan of the Warori, ii. 271. Defeated by Sultan Ironga, - 75. Description of him, 271. - - Muikamba, on the Tanganyika Lake, night spent at, ii. 115. - - Muingwira river, ii. 211. - - Muinyi Wazira, engaged to travel with the expedition, i. 52. Sketch of - his character, 129. Requests to be allowed to depart, 314. His - debauch and dismissal, 399. Reappears at Kazeh, ii. 168. Ejected, 168. - - Muinyi, halt of the party at, i. 193. Determined attitude of the - people of, 194. - - Muinyi Chandi, passed through, i. 390. - - Mukondokwa mountains, i. 180, 185, 196, 197, 203, 233. Bleak raw air - of the, 197. - - Mukondokwa river, i. 88, 181, 188, 192, 311. Ford of, 188. Valley of - the, 192. - - Mukozimo district, arrival of the party at the, i. 407. Inhospitality - of the chiefs of, 407. - - Mukunguru, or seasoning fever, of Unyamwezi, ii. 14. - - Mulberry, the whitish-green, of Uzaramo, i. 60. - - Murchison, Sir R., his triumphant geological hypothesis, i. 409. His - notice respecting the interior of Africa, 409, _note_. - - Murunguru river, ii. 154. - - Murivumba, tents of the party pitched at, ii. 114. Cannibal - inhabitants of, 114. - - Murundusi, march to, ii. 250. - - Musa, the assistant Rish Safid of the party, sketch of him, i. 138. - - Musa Mzuri, handsome Moses, of Kazeh, i. 323. His return to Kazeh, - ii. 223. His history, 223. His hospitality, 226. Visits the expedition - at Masui, 231. His kindness, 231. - - Music and musical instruments in East Africa, described, ii. 291, 338. - Of the Wajiji, 98. - - Mutware, or Mutwale, the Lord of the Ferry of the Malagarazi river, - i. 409. - - Muzungu, or white man, dangers of accompanying a, in Africa, i. 10, - 11. - - Muzunga Mbaya, the wicked white man, the plague of the party, ii. 239. - His civility near home, 240. Sketch of his personal appearance, and - specimen of his conversation, 244. - - Mvirama, a Mzaramo chief, demands rice, i. 80. - - Mviraru, a Wazaramo chief, bars the road, i. 58. - - Mvoro fish in the Tanganyika Lake, ii. 67. - - Mvule trees used for making canoes, ii. 147. - - Mwami, or wild coffee of Karagwah, ii. 180, 181, 187. - - Mwimbe, or mangrove trees, of the coast of East Africa, i. 9. Those of - Uzaramo, 62. - - Mwimbi, bad camping ground of, ii. 262. - - Mwongo fruit tree, in Mb’hali, i. 401. - - Mgombi river, i. 183. - - Myombo tree of East Africa described, i. 184. Of Usagara, 229. - - Mzimu, or Fetiss hut, of the Wazaramo, described, i. 57. In Ubwari - Island, halt at, ii. 113. Re-visited, 121. - - Mziga Mdogo, or “The Little Tamarind,” arrival of the party at, - i. 161. - - Mziga-ziga, a mode of carrying goods, i. 341. - - Mzogera, Sultan of Uvinza, i. 408. His power, 408. Settlement of - blackmail with envoys of, 408. - - - Names given to children by the Wazaramo, i. 116. - - Nakl, or first stage of departure, i. 43. - - Nar, Beni, “sons of fire,” the English so called in Africa, i. 31. - - Nautch at Kuingani described, i. 45. - - Ndabi tree, i. 196. Fruit of the, 196. - - Ndabi, halt of the caravan at, i. 196. - - Navigation of the Tanganyika Lake, antiquity of the mode of, ii. 96. - - Necklaces of shells worn in Ujiji, ii. 65. - - Nge, or scorpions, of East Africa, i. 370. - - Ngole, or Dendraspis, at Dut’humi, i. 87. - - Night in the Usagara mountains, i. 162. In the caravan, described, - 359. - - Nile, White, Ptolemy’s notion of the origin of the, ii. 178. Captain - Speke’s supposed discovery of the sources of the, 204. - - Njasa, Sultan of the Wasagara, his visit to the expedition, i. 199. - Description of him, 199. Makes “sare” or brotherhood with Said bin - Salim, 199. - - Njesa mountains, i. 226. - - Njugu ya Nyassa, the Arachis Hypogæa, as an article of food, i. 198. - - Northern kingdoms of Africa. _See_ Karagwah, Uganda, and Unyoro. - - Nose pincers of the Wajiji tribe, ii. 65. - - Nullahs, or watercourses of East Africa, i. 102. - - Nutmeg, wild, of Usui, ii. 176. - - Nyakahanga, in Karagwah, ii. 177. - - Nyanza, or Ukerewe, Lake, i. 311, 439; ii. 175, 176, 179. Chances of - exploration of the, 195. Geography of the, 206, 210, _et seq._ Size of - the, 212. Position of the, 211. Commerce of the, 215. Savage races of - the, 215. Reasons why it is not the head stream of the White Nile, - 218. Tribes dwelling near the, 219. - - Nyara, or Chamærops humilis, of the Mrima, i. 48. - - Nyasanga, fishing village on the Tanganyika lake, ii. 101. - - Nzasa, halt at the, i. 54. - - Nzige, or locusts, flights of, in Unyamwezi, ii. 18. Varieties of, 18. - - - Oars not used on the Tanganyika Lake, ii. 96. - - Ocelot, the, of Ugogi, i. 242. - - Oil, common kind of, in East Africa, ii. 285. Various kinds of, 285. - - Olive-tree unknown in East Africa, ii. 285. - - Olympus, the Æthiopian, ii. 179. - - Onions cultivated in Unyamwezi, i. 330. - - Ophthalmia, several of the party suffer from, in Unyamwezi, i. 406. - - Ophidia in Unyamwezi, ii. 17. - - Ordeal for witchcraft, ii. 357. Amongst the Wazaramo, i. 114. - - Ornaments worn by the Wazaramo, i. 110. By the Wak’hutu, 120. Fondness - of the Africans for, 147, 148, 150. Of the Wasagara tribe, 199, 237. - Of the Wagogo, 305. Of the Wahumba, 312. Of the porters of caravans, - 349. Of sultans in East Africa, 396. Of the Wakimba, ii. 20. Of the - Wanyamwezi, 22. Of the Wabuha, 78. Of the Wabwari islanders, 113. Of - the people of Karagwah, 181. - - Ostriches in Ugogo, i. 301. Value of feathers in East Africa, i. 301. - - Outfit of the expedition, articles required for the, i. 151. - - Oxen of Ujiji, ii. 59. - - - Paddles used on the Tanganyika lake, ii. 96. Described, 96. - - Palm, Syphæna, i. 82, 83. - - Palma Christi, or Mbarika, of East Africa, i. 48. - - Palm-oil, or mawezi, of the shores of the Lake Tanganyika, ii. 58. - Mode of extracting it, 58, 59. Price at the lake, 59. Uses to which it - is applied, 59. Trade in, at Wafanya, 107. - - Palmyra tree (Borassus flabelliformis), in the plains, i. 180. Toddy - drawn from, 181. At Yambo, 387. And at Mb’hali, 401. Tapped for toddy - at Msene, 398. - - Pangani river, ii. 179. - - Papazi, pest of, in East Africa, i. 371. - - Papilionaceæ in Unyamwezi, ii. 18. - - Panda, village of, i. 403. - - Pano, village of, i. 389. - - Parugerero, district of, in Unyamwezi, ii. 37. Salt manufacture of, - 37. - - Partridges in the Doab of the Mgeta river i. 81. - - Pazi bug, the, of East Africa, i. 371. - - Peewit, the, in the Rufuta plains, i. 183. - - Phantasmata in East Africa, ii. 352. - - P’hazi, or headmen of the Wazaramo, i. 54, 113. Of the Wak’hutu, 121. - - P’hepo, ghost or devil, African belief in, i. 88; ii. 352. Exorcism, - 352. - - Phlebotomy in East Africa, ii. 322. - - Pig-nuts of East Africa, i. 198. - - Pillaw in Africa, i. 393. How to boil rice, 393. - - Pine-apple, or Mananzi, of East Africa, i. 66. - - Pipes in East Africa, ii. 315. - - Pismires, chungo-fundo or siyafu, of the banks of the rivers in East - Africa, described, i. 186. Its enemy, the maji m’oto, 187. - - Pismires black, annoyance of, at K’hok’ho, i. 276. - - Plantain wine of Karagwah, ii. 180. And of Uganda, 197. Mode of making - it, 287. - - Plantains near the Unguwwe river, ii. 41. Of Ujiji, 58. The staff of - life in many places, 58. Luxuriance of it, 58. Varieties, 58. Of - Uganda, 196. - - Playfair, Captain R. L., his “History of Arabia Felix” quoted, i. 68, - _note_. - - Plum, wild, of Yombo, i. 387. - - Plundering expeditions of the Wazaramo, i. 112. - - Poisons used for arrows in Africa, ii. 301. - - Polygamy amongst the Wanyamwezi, ii. 24. - - Pombe beer, of East Africa, i. 95, 116, 333; ii. 180, 285. Universal - use of, i. 309; ii. 29. Mode of making it, 286. - - Porcupines in K’hutu, i. 160. - - Porridge of the East Africans, i. 35. - - Porridge flour, of the Wanyamwezi, ii. 29. - - Porters, or Pagazi, the Wanyamwezi, of the expedition, i. 143. - Character of East African, 144. In East Africa, 337. Variations of - porterage, 339. Great weight carried sometimes by, 341. Their - discontent, 343. Desertion of in Wilyankuru, 391. Description of those - hired in Ujiji, ii. 157. Of the Warori, 271. - - Pottery, art of, in East Africa, ii. 313. - - Prices at Msene, i. 397. In the market at Unyanyembe, 333. In Ujiji, - ii. 72. At Wafanya, 107. At Uvira, 120, 121. - - Proverbs, Arab, i. 50, 86, 130, 133, 135, 382. - - ---- African, i. 31. - - ---- Moslem, ii. 131. - - ---- Persian, ii. 237. - - ---- Sanscrit, i. 133. - - ---- Wanyamwezi, i. 338. - - Pumpkins, junsal or boga, grown at Marenga Mk’hali, i. 201. - - Punishments in Uganda, ii. 192. - - Punishments in East Africa, ii. 364. - - Punneeria coagulans of the Mrima, i. 48. - - - Quaggas in Unyamwezi, ii. 15. - - - Races of the Northern Kingdoms of Africa, ii. 174, 175. - - Rahmat, the Baloch, i. 46. - - Rain at Zungomero, i. 156. Autumnal, at Muhama, 179. In the Usagara - mountains, 218, 231, 232. In Ugogo, 298. The Masika or wet season, - 378. In Unyamwezi, ii. 8-10. In the valley of the Malagarazi river, - 49. In Karagwah, 180. - - Rainbow, fog, in the Usagara mountains, i. 222. - - Ramji, the Banyan of Cutch, engaged to accompany the expedition, - i. 10. His commercial speculation, 20. His conversation with Ladha - Damha, 23. Visits the author at Kuingani, 43. Account of him, 43, 44. - His advice, 45. - - Ramji, “sons” of, sketch of them, i. 140. Their ever-increasing - baggage, 182. Their quarrels with the Baloch soldiers, 163. Their - insolence, 164. Reappear at Kazeh, ii. 168. Allowed to take the places - of porters, 227. Return home, ii. 277. - - Ranæ of Unyamwezi, ii. 17. Of the Tanganyika Lake, ii. 61. - - Rats, field, i. 160. On the banks of the Mukondokwa river, 193. House - rats of Ujiji, ii. 60. - - Ravens of the Usagara mountains, i. 162. - - Religion of the Wazaramo, i. 115. Of the East Africans, _ib._; ii. - 341. An African’s notion of God, 348 _note_. - - Reptiles in Unyamwezi, ii. 17. - - Respect, tokens of, amongst the Wajiji, ii. 69. - - Revenge of the African, ii. 329. - - Revenue, sources of, in East Africa, ii. 365. - - Rhinoceroses at Dut’humi, i. 87. On the road to Ugogo, 247. On the - Mgunda Mk’hali, 289. In Ugogo, 300. In Unyamwezi, ii. 15. The - Rhinoceros horn trade of East Africa, 413. - - Rice, how to cook, i. 393. Red, density and rapidity of growth of, at - Msene, 397. Luxuriance of, in Ujiji, ii. 57. Allowed to degenerate, - 57. Unknown in Karagwah, 180. - - Ricinæ of East Africa, i. 371. - - Rigby, Captain, at Zanzibar, ii. 382. - - Rivers:-- - Dungomaro, or Mandama, i. 222. - Gama, i. 123. - Kariba, ii. 146. - Karindire, ii. 146. - Katonga, ii. 187. - K’hutu, i. 86. - Kibaiba, ii. 146. - Kingani, i. 56, 69, 87, 101, 123, 231. - Kikoboga, ii. 263. - Kitangure, or Karagwah, i. 409; ii. 144, 177, 186. - Kuryamavenge, ii. 146. - Malagarazi, i. 334, 337, 407, 408; ii. 36, 39, 47, 49, 164. - Mandama, or Dungomero, 222. - Marenga Mk’hali, i. 200, 201. - Marenga Mk’hali, upper, i. 247. - Maroro, i. 231. - Molongwe, ii. 146. - Mgazi, i. 86. - Mgeta, i. 80, 86, 87, 88, 101, 119, 127, 159, 160, 336; ii. 264, - 268, 274. - Muingwira, ii. 187. - Mukondokwa, i. 88, 181, 188, 192, 216, 311. - Myombo, i. 181. - Mwega, ii. 256. - Pangani, i. 125; ii. 179. - Ruche, ii. 46, 52, 157, 158. - Rufiji, or Rwaha, i. 30, 101, 119, 216, 220, 225, 231; ii. 257, 270, - 379. - Rufuta, i. 167. - Ruguvu, or Luguvu, ii. 40, 52. - Rumangwa, ii. 149, 153. - Rumuma, i. 197. - Rusizi, or Lusizi, ii. 117, 146. - Rusugi, ii. 37, 161. - Rwaha, or Rufiti, i. 216, 220, 225, 231, 295; ii. 8. - Tumbiri of Dr. Krapf, ii. 217. - Unguwwe, or Uvungwe, ii. 40, 52. - Yovu, ii. 257, 258. - Zohnwe, i. 127. - - Riza, the Baloch, sketch of him, i. 139. - - Roads in the maritime region of East Africa described, i. 105, 106. In - the Usagara Mountains, 230. From Ugogo to Unyamwezi, 281. In Ugogo, - 302. In Unyanyembe, 325. Description of the roads in East Africa, 335. - In Unyamwezi, ii. 19. From the Malagarazi Ferry, 51. - - Rubeho Mountains, i. 233, 211, 245. - - Rubeho, or “Windy Pass,” painful ascent of the, i. 213. Scenery from - the summit, 214. Village of Wasagara at the summit, 218. - - Rubeho, the Great, halt at the, i. 215. Dangerous illness of Capt. - Speke at, 215. His restoration, 215. - - Rubeho, the Little, ascent of the, i. 215. Fight between the porters - and the four Wak’hutu, 216. - - Rubeho, the Third, halt of the caravan at, i. 221. - - Rubuga, arrival of the caravan at, i. 315. Visit from Abdullah bin - Jumah and his flying caravan, 315. Flood at, 317. - - Ruche river, ii. 52. Mouth of the, 46, 157. - - Rudi, march to, ii. 251. - - Rufiji river, the, i. 30, 216, 220, 225, 231; ii. 257, 379. Races on - the, i. 30. - - Rufita Pass in Umgara, ii. 259. - - Rufuta fiumara, the, i. 167. - - Ruguvu, or Luguvu, river, ii. 40, 52. Fords of the, i. 336. - - Ruhembe rivulet, the, ii. 261. Halt in the basin of the, 261. - - Ruhembe, Sultan, slain by the Watuta, ii. 76. - - Rukunda, or Lukunda, night spent at, i. 407. - - Rumanika of Karagwah, his rebellion and defeat, ii. 183. Besieges his - brother, 224. - - Rumuma river, described, i. 197. - - Rumuma, halt of the caravan at, i. 198. Abundance of its supplies, - 198. Visit from the Sultan Njasa at, 199. Climate of, 199. - - Rusimba, Sultan of Ujiji, ii. 70. - - Rusizi river, ii. 117, 146. - - Rusugi river, described, ii. 37. Forded, 37. - - Ruwere, chief of Jambeho, levies “dash” on the party, ii. 36. - - Rwaha river, i. 295, 216, 220, 225, 231; ii. 257. - - - Sage, in Usagara, i. 228. - - Sangale fish in the Tanganyika Lake, ii. 67. - - Said, Sayyid, Sultan of Zanzibar, the “Imaum of Muscat,” i. 2. His - sons, 2. - - Salim bin Rashid, the Arab merchant, calls on Captain Burton, ii. 228. - - Said bin Salim, appointed Ras Kafilah, or caravan guide, to the - expedition, i. 9, 10. Attacked by fever, 71. His terror of the - Wazaramo, 73. His generosity through fear, 90. His character, 129. - His hatred of the Baloch, 163. His covetousness, 163, 164. Insolence - of his slaves, 164. His dispute with Kidogo, 255. His fears, and - neglect at Ugogo, 280. His inhospitality, 287. His change of - behaviour, 382. His punishment, 384. His selfishness, 391. His fears, - ii. 125. Enters into brotherhood with Lurinda, 125. And afterwards - with Kannena, 126. His carelessness of the supplies, 127. His - impertinence, 159, 160. His attempts to thwart the expedition, 172. - Pitches tents outside Kazeh, 227. Moves to the village of Masui, 229. - Dismissed from his stewardship, 237. His news from Zanzibar, 261. His - terror in Uzaramo, 275. Leaves for home, 277. Visits the author at - Zanzibar, 382. - - Said bin Ali el Hinawi, the Arab merchant of Kazeh, i. 323. - - Said bin Majid, the Arab merchant of Kazeh, i. 323. Return of the - expedition with his caravan, ii. 157. Separation from him, 165. - Treatment of his people at Ujiji, 84. - - Said bin Mohammed of Mbuamaji, and his caravan i. 257. Account of him - and his family, 258. - - Said bin Mohammed, Sultan of Irora, i. 389. His surliness, 389. - Brought to his senses, 389, 390. - - Salim bin Said, the Arab merchant in Wilyankuru, i. 391. His - hospitality, 391. - - Salim bin Masud, the Arab merchant, murdered, i. 328, 391. - - Sanscrit proverb, i. 133. - - Salt, demand for, in Ujiji, ii. 82. Scarcity of, at Wafanya, 108. - Stock laid in, ii. 161. - - Salt-pits of K’hutu, i. 92. - - Salt-trade of Parugerero, ii. 37. Quality of the salt, 37. - - Salsaparilla vine of Uzaramo, i. 60. - - Sare, or brother oath, of the Wazaramo, i. 114. Mode of performing the - ceremony, 114. Ceremony of, performed between Sultan Njasa and Said - bin Salim, i. 199. - - Sawahil, or “the shores,” geographical position of the, i. 29, 30. - People of, described, 30. - - Sayf bin Salim, the Arab merchant, account of, i. 83. Returns to - Dut’humi, 128. His covetousness, 128. Crushes a servile rebellion, - 125. - - Scorpions of East Africa, i. 370. In the houses in Ujiji, ii. 61. - - Seasons, aspect of the, in Ugogo, i. 298. Eight in Zanzibar, ii. 8. - Two in Unyamwezi, 8. - - Seedy Mubarak Bombay, gun-carrier in the expedition, character of, - i. 130, 279. His demand of bakhshish, ii. 173. His peculiarities, 236. - Appointed steward, 237. - - Σεληνης ορος of the Greeks, locality of the, ii. 4. - - Servile war in East Africa, i. 125. - - Shahdad, the Baloch, sketch of him, i. 135. Left behind at Kazeh, 381. - - Sharm, or shame, Oriental, i. 23. - - Sheep of Ujiji, ii. 59. - - Shehe, son of Ramji, appointed Kirangozi, ii. 232. Dismissed, 238. - - Shields of the Wasagara tribe, i. 238. Unknown to the Wagogo, 304. - Carried by the Wahumba, 312. In Unyamwezi, ii. 23. - - Shoes required for the expedition, i. 154. - - Shoka, or battle-axes of the East Africans, ii. 307. - - Shukkah, or loin cloth, of East Africa, i. 149. Of the Wasagara, 235. - Materials of which it is made, 236. - - Siki, or vinegar of East Africa, ii. 288. - - Sikujui, the lady, added to the caravan, i. 210. Description of her, - 210, 221. - - Silurus, the, of the Mabunguru fiumara, i. 284. - - Sime, or double-edged knives, of the Wasagara, i. 240. Of the Wagogo, - 306. Of the Wanyamwezi, ii. 22. Of East Africa generally, 307. - - Singa fish of the Tanganyika Lake, ii. 68. - - Siroccos at Ugogo, i. 260. - - Siyafu, or black pismires, annoyances of, at K’hok’ho, i. 276. - - Skeletons on the road side, i. 165, 168. - - Skin, colour of the, of the Wazaramo, i. 108. Of the Wak’hutu, 120. Of - the Wadoe, 124. Of the Wagogo, 304. Sebaceous odour of the, of the - Wazaramo, 309. Of the Wanyamwezi, ii. 20. Warundi, 145. Karagwah - people, 181. Skin diseases of East Africa, 320. - - Slave caravans of East Africa, i. 17. At Tumba Ihere, 62. At Zanzibar, - 50. - - Slaves and slavery: kidnapping in Inland Magogoni, i. 88. In Dat’humi, - 89. Slavery in K’hutu, 97, 98, 121. Kidnappings of the Wazegura, 125. - Pitiable scene presented by a village after a commando, 185. In Ugogo, - 309. In Unyamwezi, ii. 23. Of Ujiji, 61, 71. Prices of slaves in, 62, - 71. Prices of Wahha slaves at Msene, 79. Not trustworthy in Africa, - 111. Their modes of murdering their patrons, 111. Prices of, in Uvira, - 121. In Karagwah, 184. In Ubena, 270. Degrading effects of the slave - trade, 340, 366. Origin of the slave trade of East Africa, 366. - Treatment of slaves, 367, 369. Two kinds of slave trade, 368. - Kidnapping, 369. Character of slaves, 371. Revenge of slaves, 374, - 375. Female slaves, 375. Prices of slaves, 375. Number of slaves - imported yearly into Zanzibar, 377. Ease with which the slave-trade at - Zanzibar could be abolished, 377. - - Small-pox in the Usagara mountains, i. 166. And in the up caravans, - 179. The porters of the party attacked by, 180, 184, 190. In Khalfan’s - caravan, 201. In the caravans in East Africa, 342. In East Africa - generally, ii. 318. - - Smoking parties of women at Yombo, i. 388. - - Snay bin Amir, the Arab merchant of Kazeh, i. 323. Performs the guest - rites there, 323, 324. Sketch of his career, 324. His visit to the - Sultan of Ugunda, ii. 193. His kindness, i. 384; ii. 231. - - Snakes at Unyamwezi, ii. 17. In the houses in Ujiji, 61. - - Snuff, Wajiji mode of taking, ii. 65. - - Soil, fertility of the, at Msene, i. 397. Character of the, in - Unyamwezi, ii. 6. Wondrous fertility of the, in the valley of the - Malagarazi river, 49. And of that of Ujiji, 57. - - Soma Giri, of the Hindus, locality of the, ii. 4. - - Songs of the porters of the caravan, ii. 361, 362. Of East Africa, - ii. 291. - - Sorghum cultivated in Ujiji, ii. 57. - - Sorora, or Solola, in Unyamwezi, arrival of the party at, i. 401. Its - deadly climate, 401. - - Speke, Capt., his illness in Uzaramo, i. 62, 65, 69. Shakes off his - preliminary symptoms, 71. Lays the foundation of a fever, 82. - Thoroughly prostrated, 84. Recovers his health at Mzizi Mdogo, 161. - Again attacked at Muhama, 179. And by “liver” at Rumuma, 200. - Dangerous illness at the Windy Pass, 214. Restored, 215. Unable to - walk, 286. Awaits reserve supplies at Kazeh, 386. Rejoins the caravan, - 390. Tormented by ophthalmia, 406; ii. 86. Starts on an expedition to - explore the northern extremity of the Tanganyika Lake, 87. Returns - moist and mildewed, and nothing done, 90. His “Journal” in “Blackwood” - referred to, 90. Quoted, 91 _note_. A beetle in his ear, 91 _note_. - Joins the second expedition, 99. Improvement in his health, 129. - Return journey, 157. His deafness and dimness of vision, 169. Leaves - Kazeh for the north, 173. Returns, 204. His supposed discovery of the - sources of the White Nile, 204. Taken ill at Hanga, 233. Convalescent, - 240. Sights the sea at Konduchi, 279. Returns home, 384. - - Spears and assegais of the Wasagara tribe, i. 237. Of the Wagogo, 306. - Of the Wahumba, 311. Of the Wanyamwezi, ii. 22. Of East Africa - generally, 301. - - Spiders of East Africa, i. 371. In the houses of Ujiji, ii. 61. - - Sport in East Africa, remarks on, i. 268. - - Spring, hot, of Maji ya W’heta, i. 159. - - Squirrels, red, in K’hutu, i. 160. - - Stars, their splendour at the equator, i. 163. - - Stares, category of in Africa, ii. 129. - - Stationery required for the expedition, i. 153. - - Steinhæuser, Dr., i. 25. - - Storm in Uzaramo, i. 69. Those of the rainy monsoon in Unyamwezi, - ii. 9. On the Tanganyika Lake, description of a, 122. - - Succession and inheritance, in Unyamwezi, ii. 23. - - Sugar-cane, wild, or Gugu-mbua, i. 71. In Ujiji, ii. 58. Chewed, 288. - - Sugar made of granulated honey, i. 397. - - Suiya, antelope, i. 269. - - Sulphur in Karagwah, ii. 185. - - Sultans, burial-places of, in Unyamwezi, ii. 26. Power of the Sultan - in this country, 31. And in East Africa generally, ii. 362. - - Sun, his splendour at the equator, i. 162. Ring-cloud tempering the - rays of the, in Unyamwezi, ii. 11, 12. - - Suna, Sultan of Uganda, ii. 188. The Arabs’ description of him, 189. - His hundred sons, 192. His chief officers, and mode of government, - 192. Account of a visit to him, 193. - - Sunset-hour on the Indian Ocean, i. 1. In the Land of the Moon, 387. - In Unyamwezi, ii. 7. In Ujiji, 89. In East Africa generally, 289. - - Sunrise on the Tanganyika Lake, ii. 156. - - Superstitions of the Wamrima, i. 38. Of the Wagogoni, inland, 88. Of - the Wazaramo, 112, 114, 115. - - Supplies, shortness of, ii. 130. Arrival of some, but inadequate for - the purpose, 130. - - Surgery in East Africa, ii. 322. - - Suwarora, Sultan, his exorbitant black-mail, ii. 176. - - Swallows in Unyamwezi, ii. 17. - - Swords in East Africa, ii. 308. - - Sycomore tree of East Africa, the Mkuyu, its magnificence, i. 195. Its - two varieties, 195, 196. Its magnificence in Usagara, 229. - - - Tailoring in Africa, ii. 201. - - Tamarind trees of the Usagara Mountains, i. 165, 229. Modes of - preparing the fruit, 165. At Mfuto, 389. - - Tanganyika Lake, first view of the, described, ii. 42, 43. A boat - engaged on the, 45. Seen from Ujiji, 47. Hippopotami and crocodiles - in, 60. People of the shores of, 62, _et seq._ Fishing in, 66. - Varieties of fish in, 67. Failure of Captain Speke’s expedition for - exploring the northern shores of, 90. Preparations for another cruise, - 93. Description of the boats of the lake, 94. Navigation of the, 94. - Voyage up the, 99. Eastern shores of the, described, 100. Fishing - villages, 100. Remarks on boating and voyaging on the lake, 101. - Account of the island of Ubwari, 108. Visit to the island, 113. - Further progress stopped, 117, 119. Storm on the lake, 122. History of - the lake, ii. 134 _et seq._ Meaning of the name, 137. Extent and - general direction of, 137. Altitude of, 139. Sweetness of its water, - 139. Its colour, 140. Its depth, 140. Its affluents, 140. Its coasts, - 141. No effluents, 141. Its temperature, 142. Its ebb and flow, 143. - Physical and ethnological features of its periplus, 144. Sunrise - scenery on the lake, 156. - - Targes of the East Africans described, ii. 307. - - Tattoo, not general amongst the Wazaramo, i. 108. Nor amongst the - Wak’hutu, 120. Practised by the Wadoe, 124. Of the Wanyamwezi, ii. 21. - Amongst the Wajiji, 63. Of the Warundi, 145. - - Teeth, chipped to points by the Wasagara tribe, i. 235. - - Tembe, the houses beyond Marenga Mk’hali so called, i. 207. - Description of the Tembe of East Africa, 366. - - Tembo, or palm-toddy, a favourite inebrient in Ujiji, ii. 70. - - Tenga, in Karagwah, ii. 177. - - Tent-making in Africa, ii. 201. - - Termites of East Africa, i. 201, 202. In the houses of Ujiji, ii. 61. - - Tetemeka, or earthquakes in Unyamwezi, ii. 13. - - Thermometers in Africa, i. 169. - - Thiri, or Ut’hiri, district of, ii. 215. - - Thirst, impatience and selfishness of, of the Baloch guard, i. 205. - African impatience of, 359; ii. 334. - - Thorns, nuisance of, on the road to Ugogo, i. 246. - - Thunder and lightning in Unyamwezi, ii. 9. In the Malagarazi valley, - 50. In Karagwah, 180. - - Timber of East Africa, ii. 415. - - Time, difficulty of keeping, by chronometers in East African travel, - i. 189, 190. Second-hand watches to be preferred, 190. - - Tirikeza, or afternoon march of a caravan, i. 203, 221. Incidents of - one, 204, 205. - - Tobacco, trade of, in East Africa, ii. 418. - - Tobacco, use of, in East Africa, i. 36. Smoked by women in Unyamwezi, - 388. Chewed by Unyamwezi, ii. 28. Tobacco of Uganda, 196. Tobacco - trade of East Africa, ii. 418. - - Tobacco-pipes of Eastern Africa, i. 388; ii. 315. - - Toddy obtained from the palmyra of Msene only, i. 398. Extracted from - the Guinea-palm in Ujiji, ii. 59. Prevalence of the use of, in Ujiji, - 59, 70. Of Zanzibar, 287. - - Togwa, a drink in Unyamwezi, i. 333. And in East Africa generally, - ii. 286. - - Tombs of the Wamrima and Wazaramo, i. 57. - - Tools required for the expedition, i. 153. - - Tramontana of the Rubeho, or Windy Pass, i. 214. - - Travellers in Africa, advice to, ii. 82. Melancholy of which - travellers in tropical countries complain, 130. - - Travelling, characteristics of Arab, in Eastern Africa, ii. 157. - Expense of travelling in East Africa, 229. - - Trees in East Africa. _See_ Vegetation. - - Tree-bark used for clothing in Ujiji, ii. 64. Mode of preparing it, - 64. - - Trove, treasure, Arab care of, i. 258. - - Tumba Ihere, the P’hazi, i. 54. His station, 62. Slave caravans at, - 62. Accompanies the expedition, 62, 65. - - Tumbiri river of Dr. Krapf, ii. 217. - - Tunda, “the fruit,” malaria of the place, i. 71. - - Tura, arrival of the caravan at the nullah of, i. 291. And at the - village of, 292. Astonishment of the inhabitants, 292. Description of, - 313. Return to, ii. 241. - - Turmeric at Muinyi Chandi, i. 390. - - Twanigana, elected Kirangozi, ii. 239. His conversation, 243. - - Twins amongst the Wazaramo, i. 116. Treatment of, in Unyamwezi, - ii. 23. - - Tzetze, a stinging jungle fly, i. 187. At K’hok’ho, 276. On the - Mgunda Mk’hali, 289. - - - Ubena, land of, described, ii. 269. People of, 270. Commerce and - currency of, 270. - - Ubeyya, province of, ii. 153. - - Ubwari, island of, ii. 108. De Barros’ account of, quoted, 108. Size - and position of, 108. The expedition sails for, 112. Inhabitants of, - 113. Halt at, 114. Portuguese accounts of, 135. - - Uchawi, or black magic, how punished by the Wazaramo, i. 113. - Described, 265. Not generally believed in Ugogo, 307. Mode of - proceeding in cases of, ii. 32. Belief of the East Africans generally - in, 347. Office of the mganga, 356. - - Ufipa, district of, on the Tanganyika Lake, i. 153. Its fertility, - 135. People of, 153. - - Ufyoma, a province of Unyamwezi, ii. 6. - - Ugaga, delay at the village of, i. 408, 410. - - Ugali, or flour porridge, the common food of East Africa, i. 35. Of - the Wanyamwezi, ii. 29. - - Uganda, road to, ii. 187. Sultan of, and his government, 188. - - Uganza, arrival of the caravan at, i. 407. - - Ugogi, halt of the party at, i. 241. Abundance of provisions at, 241. - Geography of, 242. People of, 242. Animals of, 242. Pleasant position - of, 243. Its healthiness, 243. - - Ugogo, first view of, from the Usagara mountains, i. 220. The plains - of, reached by the caravan, 223. Scenery on the road near, 245. - Blackmail at, 252. Entrance into, 259. Description of the surrounding - country, 259. The calabash tree at, 260. Siroccos at, 260. Reception - of the caravan at, 261. Incidents of the march through, 261-280. Roads - from Ugogo to Unyamwezi, 281. Geography of Ugogo, 294. Boundaries of, - 294. No rivers in, 295. Igneous formation of, 295. Houses of, 296. - Subsoil of, 296. Climate of, 297. Diseases of, 299. Vegetation of, - 299, 300. Animals of, 300. Roads of, 302. Description of the tribes - of, 303. Lodging for caravans in, 354. Return through, ii. 246. - - Ugoyye, district of, in Ujiji, ii. 53. - - Uhha, land of, now a desert, ii. 53. Laid waste by the Watuta tribe, - 76, 78. - - Uhehe, march through, ii. 250. People of, 251. - - Ujiji, Sea of. _See_ Tanganyika, Lake of. - - Ujiji, town of, lodgings for caravans in, i. 354. Arrival of the party - at the, ii. 46. Scene there, 47. Climate of, 50, 51. Boundaries of, - 53. Villages and districts of, 53. Camping ground of caravans near, - 54. Distance of Ujiji from the coast, and number of stages, 55. - History of the country, 56. Trade of, 57. Fertility of the soil of, - 57. Bazar of, 59. Fauna of, 60. Slave trade of, 61. Principal tribes - in, 62. Inconveniences of a halt at, and of a return journey from, 74. - Mode of spending the day at, 87. - - Ukami, depopulation of, i. 88. - - Ukaranga, or “land of ground-nuts,” on the Tanganyika Lake, arrival - at, ii. 44. Boundaries of, 52. Wretched villages of, 52. Apathy of the - people, 52. Etymology of the name, 52. - - Ukerewe, ii. 212. Account of, 212, 213. People of, 212. Commerce of, - 213. - - Ukhindu, or brab-tree, i. 48. - - Ukona, reached by the caravan, i. 318. - - Ukungwe, village of, i. 403. - - Ukungwe, islands of, ii. 151. - - Umbilical region, protrusion of the, in the children of the Wazaramo, - ii. 117. - - Unguwwe, or Uvungwe, river, ii. 40, 52. Forded, 40. - - Unyanguruwwe, settlement of, i. 408. - - Unyangwira, a province of Unyamwezi, ii. 6. - - Unyanyembe district, rice lands of the, i. 321. Aspect of the land, - 321. Description of it, 325; ii. 5. Roads in, i. 325. Its physical - features, 326. Its villages, 326. History of the Arab settlements in, - 327. Food in, 329, 331-334. Prices in, 333. - - Unyamwezi, or the Land of the Moon, i. 313. Arrival of the caravan in - the, 314. Lodgings for caravans in, 354. Geography of, ii. 1. - Boundaries and extent of, 2. Altitude of, 2. The country as known to - the Portuguese, 2. Corruptions of the name, 2, 3. Etymology of the - word, 3, 4. Barbarous traditions of its having been a great empire, 4. - Portuguese accounts of its former greatness, 5. Its present political - condition, 5. Its dialects, 5. Provinces into which it is divided, 5. - General appearance of the country, 6. Its geology, 6. Peaceful rural - beauty of the country, 7. Water and rice fields, 7. Versant of - Unyamwezi, 8. Its two seasons, 8. Its rainy monsoon, 8-10. The hot - season, 11. Diseases of the country, 11, 13, 14. Whirlwinds and - earthquakes, 11, 13. Curious effects of the climate, 14. Fauna of - Unyamwezi, 15. Roads in, 19. Notice of the races of, 19. - - Unyoro, dependent, ii. 187. - - Unyoro, independent, land of, ii. 197. People of, 197. - - Urundi, mountains of, i. 409; ii. 48. Arrival of the expedition in the - region of, 101. People of, 107, 117. Description of the kingdom of, - 144. Governments of, 145. People of, 145. Route to, 169. - - Uruwwa, the present terminus of trade, ii. 147. People of, 147. Prices - at, 147. - - Usagara mountains, i. 87, 159, 215, 297, 335. Ascent of the, 160. Halt - in the, 161. Healthiness of the, 161. Vegetation of the, 162, 165. - Water in the, 218. Descent of the counterslope of the, 219. View from - the, 220. Geography of the, 225, _et seq._ Geology of the, 227. Fruits - and flowers of the, 228. Magnificent trees of the, 129. Water-channels - and cultivation of the ground in the, 229. Village of the, 229. - Supplies of food in the, 229. Roads of the, 230. Water for drinking in - the, 230. Climate of the, 231. Diseases of the, 233. The tribes - inhabiting the, 233. - - Usagozi, a province of Unyamwezi, ii. 6. March to, i. 405. Insolence - of the men of, 405. Description of the town of, and country around, - 405. Sultan and people of, 406. - - Usek’he, in Ugogo, i. 272. - - Usenda, capital of the Sultan Kazembe, ii. 148. Trade of Usenda, 148. - - Usenge, arrival of the party at the clearing of, i. 407. - - Usoga, Land of, ii. 197. People of, 197. - - Usui, road and route from Unyanyembe to, ii. 175. Description of, 176. - People of, 176. - - Usukama, a province of Unyamwezi, ii. 5. - - Usumbwa, a province of Unyamwezi, ii. 6. - - Utakama, a province of Unyamwezi, ii. 5. - - Utambara, near Marungu, district of, ii. 151. - - Ut’hongwe, country of, ii. 52. - - Utumbara, a province of Unyamwezi, ii. 6, 176. People of, 176. - - Uvinza, lodgings for caravans in, i. 354. Geography of, ii. 1, 48. The - two seasons of, 8. - - Uvira, southern frontier of, reached by the expedition, ii. 115, 116. - Sultan of, 116. Blackmail at, 120. Commerce of, 120. - - Uyanzi, land of, description of the, i. 279. - - Uyonwa, principal village of Uvinza, ii. 78. Sultan Mariki of, 78. - Tents pitched at, 161. - - Uyuwwi, Kitambi, sultan of, i. 320. - - Uzaramo, the first district of, i. 54. Fertility of, 60. Wild animals - of, 63. Storm in, 60. Boundaries of the territory of, 107. Roads in, - 335. Art of narcotising fish in, ii. 67. Re-entered, 275. - - Uzige, land of, described, ii. 146. People of, 146. Rivers of, 146. - - Uziraha, plain of, ii. 263. - - Uzungu, or White Land, African curiosity respecting, i. 261. - - - Valentine, the Goanese servant, sketch of his character, i. 131. Taken - ill, i. 200, 379; ii. 169. Cured by the tinctura Warburgii, 169. His - reception by the Wagogo, 263. Sent to learn cooking, 384. Suffers from - ophthalmia, 406. Mortally wounds a Wayfanya, ii. 124. - - Vegetables in East Africa, i. 201; ii. 283. - - Vegetation of-- - Bomani, road to, i. 47. - Dut’humi, i. 87. - Eastern Africa generally, i. 228. - Karagwah, ii. 180. - Katonga river, ii. 187. - K’hutu, i. 91. - Kingani river, valley of the, i. 56, 69. - Kiranga-Ranga, i. 60. - Kirira, i. 395. - Kiruru, i. 83. - Kuingani, i. 43. - Makata tank, i. 181. - Mgeta river, i. 166. - Mgunda Mk’hali, i. 282. - Mrima, the, i. 101, 103, 104. - Msene, i. 397, _note_. - Muhogwe, i. 63. - Mukondokwa mountains, i. 195. - Murundusi, ii. 250. - Rufuta fiumara, i. 168. - ---- plains, i. 180. - Tanganyika Lake shores, ii. 141. - The road beyond Marenga Mk’hali, i. 205. - The road to Ugogo, i. 246. - Tumba Ihere, i. 62. - Ugogo, i. 275, 299, 300. - Ugoma, ii. 147. - Ujiji, ii. 57. - Unguwwe river, ii. 40. - Unyamwezi, ii. 6. - Usagara mountains, i. 162, 165, 220. - Uvinza in June, ii. 163. - Yombo, i. 387. - Zungomero, i. 95. - - Veneration, African want of, ii. 336. - - Village life in East Africa, described, ii. 278. - - Villages of the Mrima, i. 102. Of the Wak’hutu, 121. A deserted - village described, 185. Villages of the Usagara mountains, 229. Of the - Wahehe, 240. Of East Africa generally, 364, _et seq._ In Unyamwezi, - ii. 7. Of Ukaranga, 52. - - Vinegar of East Africa, ii. 288. - - Voandzeia subterranea, a kind of vetch, i. 196, 198. - - - Wabembe tribe, their cannibal practices, ii. 114, 146. - - Wabena tribes, i. 304. Described by the Arab merchants, ii. 270. - - Wabha tribe, their habitat, ii. 78. Their chief village, 78. Their - personal appearance and dress, 78. Their arms, 78. Their women, 78. - - Wabisa tribe, habitat of the, ii. 150. Their dress, 150. Their manners - and customs, 150. - - Wabwari, or people of Ubwari island, described, ii. 113. Women of the, - 113. - - Wadoe tribe, their habitat, i. 123. Their history, 123. Their - cannibalism, 123. Their distinctive marks, 124. Their arms, 124. Their - customs, 124. Subdivisions of the tribe, 124. - - Wafanya, halt at the village of, ii. 106. Visit from the chief of, - 107. Blackmail at, 107. Climate of, 107. Prices at, 107. - - Wafipa tribe, habitat of the, ii. 153. Their personal appearance, 153. - - Wafyoma race, described, ii. 176. - - Waganda races, described, ii. 196. Their language, 196. Their dress, - 196. - - Waganga, or priests, of Urundi, their savage appearance, ii. 145. - _See_ Mganga. - - Wagara, or Wagala, tribe, i. 407. - - Wagogo, their astonishment at the white man, i. 263. Habitat of the, - 303, 304. Extent of the country of the, 304. Complexion of the, 304. - The ear-ornaments of the, 304. Distinctive mark of the, 304. Modes of - wearing the hair, 304. Women of the, 305. Dress of the, 305. Ornaments - of the, 305. Arms of the, 306. Villages of the, 306. Language of the, - 306. Their dislike of the Wanyamwezi, 307. Their strength of numbers, - 307. Not much addicted to black magic, 307. Their commerce, 308. Their - greediness, 308. Their thievish propensities, 309. Their idleness and - debauchery, 309. Their ill manners, 309. Their rude hospitality, 310. - Authority of the Sultan of Ugogo, 310. Food in, 310, 311. - - Wagoma tribe, their habitat, ii. 147. - - Waguhha tribe, habitat of the, ii. 147. Lake in their country, 147. - Roads, 147. - - Wahayya tribe, the, ii. 187. - - Wahehe tribe, their habitat, i. 239. Their thievish propensities, 239. - Their distension of their ear-lobes, 239. Distinctive marks of the - tribe, 239. Their dress, 239. Their arms, 240. Their villages, flocks, - and herds, 240. - - Wahha tribe, their country laid waste, ii. 76, 78. Their present - habitat, 79. Wahha slaves, 79. - - Wahinda tribe, account of the, ii. 219. Their habitat, 219. Their - dress, 220. Their manners and customs, 220. - - Wahuma class of Karagwah, described, ii. 181, 182. - - Wahumba tribe, the bandit, i. 203. Haunts of the, seen in the - distance, 205. - - Wahumba, or Wamasai, tribe, ii. 215. Attack the villages of Inenge, - i. 213. Haunts of, 259. Slavery among the, 309. Dialect of the, 311. - Habitat of the, 311. Seldom visited by travellers, 311. Complexion of - the, 311. Dress, manners, and customs of the, 312. Dwellings of the, - 312. Arms of the, 312. - - Wahumba Hills, i. 295, 297. - - Wajiji tribe, the, described, ii. 62. Rudeness and violence of, 62, - 68. Diseases of, 63. Practice of tattooing amongst, 63. Ornaments and - dress of, 63, 64. Cosmetics of, 63. Mode of taking snuff of, 65. - Fishermen of the lake of Tanganyika, 66. Ceremoniousness of the - Wajiji, 69. Absence of family affection amongst them, 69. Their habits - of intoxication, 69. Power and rights of their sultan, 70. Their - government, 71. Their commerce, 71. Prices in Ujiji, 72. Currency in, - 73. Musical instruments of the Wajiji, 98. Inquisitive wonder of the - people, 128. Category of stares, 128. - - Wakaguru tribe, villages of the, i. 168. - - Wakalaganza tribe, the, i. 406. Dress of the, 406. - - Wakamba, the, a sub-tribe of the Wazaramo, i. 108. - - Wakarenga tribe, wretched villages of the, ii. 52. Their want of - energy and civilisation, 52, 74, 75. - - Wakatete tribe, habitat of the, ii. 149. - - Wakimbu race, account of the, ii. 19. Villages of the, 19. Dress and - characteristic marks of the, 20. Arms of the, 20. Ornaments of the, - 20. Language of the, 20. - - Wakumbaku tribe, country of the, i. 88. - - Wak’hutu race, the, described, i. 97. The ivory touters of, 97. Their - territory, 119. Their physical and mental qualities, 120. Their dress, - 120. Their drunkenness, 120. Their food, 120. Their government, 121. - Their dwellings, 121. - - Wakwafi tribe, slavery among the, i. 309. Their untameable character, - 309. - - Wall point, i. 8. - - Wamasai tribe, slavery among the, i. 309. - - Wambele, Chomwi la Mtu Mku, or Headman Great Man of Precedence, - i. 156. - - Wambozwa tribe, habitat of the, ii. 149. Their government, 152. Their - personal appearance, 152. Their manners and customs, 152. - - Wamrima, or “people of the Mrima,” described, i. 16, 30, 32. Their - chomwi, or headmen, 16. Their dress, 33. Their women, 34. Their mode - of life, 35. Their national characteristics, 36. Their habits and - customs, 37. Their tombs, 57. Wamrima caravans, description of, 344. - Hospitality of the people, 353. - - Wanguru porters, desertion of the, i. 52. - - Wanyambo, the poor class of Karagwah, described, ii. 182. - - Wanyamwezi porters of the expedition, i. 143. Account of the - Wanyamwezi tribe, ii. 20. Colour of the skin of the, 20. Effluvium - from their skins, 20. Mode of dressing the hair, 20. Elongation of the - mammæ of the women, 21. Mark of the tribe, 21. Dress of the, 21. - Ornaments of the, 22. Arms of the, 22. Manners and customs of the, 23. - Ceremonies of childbirth, 23. Of marriage, 24. Funerals, 25. Houses of - the Wanyamwezi, 24. Iwanza, or public-house of the, 27. Food of the - people, 28. Their commercial industry, 29. Their language, 30. - Cultivation of the ground, 30, 31. Slavery amongst them, 31, 33. - Government of the people, 31. Notice of Sultan Fundikira, 31, 32. - Desertion of the porters, in Ugogo, 277. Their fear of the Wagogo, - 307. Greeting of porters of the, on the road, 291. - - Wanyika, halt of the party at the settlement of, i. 407. Blackmail at, - 407. - - Wanyora race described, ii. 197. - - Wap’hangara, the, a subtribe of the Wazaramo, i. 108. - - Wapoka, country of the, ii. 153. - - Warburg’s tincture, an invaluable medicine, ii. 169. - - Warori, their meeting with the caravan, ii. 251. The tribe described, - 272. Their raids, 272, 273. Their personal appearance, 273. Dress and - weapons, 273. Their food and habitations, 273. - - Warufiji, or people of the Rufiji river, i. 30. - - Warudi tribe, ii. 215, 219. - - Warugaru tribe, country of the, i. 88. Their language, 89. - - Warundi tribe, noise and insolence of the, ii. 107. Their - inhospitality, 108, 117. Their habitat, 144. Their mode of government, - 145. Their complexion, 145. Their personal appearance, 145. Their - dress, arms, and ornaments, 145. Their women, 146. - - Wasagara tribe, thievish propensities of the, i. 229. Villages of the, - 168. Those of Rumuma described, 198. Their ornaments and arms, 199. - Village of, on the summit of Rubeho, 218. Villages of, on the slopes, - 221. Their habitat, 234. Colour of their skins, 234. Modes of wearing - the hair, 234. Distension of the ear-lobe, 235. Distinctive marks of - the tribe, 235. Dress of the, 235. Arms of the, 237. Government of - the, 238. Houses of the, 366. - - Wasawahili, or people of the Sawahil, described, i. 30. National - characteristics of the, 36. Their habits and customs, 37. Caravans of, - 344. - - Wasenze tribe, their habitat, ii. 147. - - Washaki tribe, the, ii. 215, 219. - - Washenzi, or barbarians from the interior, i. 18. Curiosity of, 394. - - Washenzi, “the conquered,” or Ahl Maraim, the, i. 30. - - Wasps, mason, of the houses in East Africa, i. 370. - - Wasui tribe, described, ii. 176. - - Wasukuma tribe, their thievery, i. 319. Punishment of some of them, - 320, 321. Their sultan, Msimbira, 319-321. - - Wasumbwa tribe, in Msene, i. 395. - - Wasuop’hángá tribe, country of the, i. 88. - - Watatura tribes, i. 304; ii. 215, 220. Their habitat, 220. Recent - history of them, 220, 221. - - Watches, a few second-hand, the best things for keeping time in East - African travel, i. 190. - - Water-courses, or nullahs, of East Africa, i. 102. In the Usagara - mountains, 229, 230. - - Water, in the Mrima, i. 102. In the Usagara mountains, 218. Scarcity - of, near Marenga Mk’hali, 203. Impatience and selfishness of thirst of - the Baloch guard, 205. In the Usagara mountains, 230. On the road to - Ugogo, 247. Permission required for drawing, 252. Scarcity of, at - Kanyenye, 265. Inhospitality of the people there, respecting, 267. - Scarcity of, in Mgunda Mk’hali, 282. At the Jiwe la Mkoa, 287. At - Kirurumo, 289. At Jiweni, 289. On the march of the caravan, 359. In - Unyamwezi, ii. 7. Of the Tanganyika Lake, its sweetness, 139. Want of, - on the return journey, 239. - - Water-melons at Marenga Mk’hali, i. 201. Cultivation of, 201. - - Wat’hembe tribe, the, ii. 154. - - Wat’hembwe tribe, habitat of the, ii. 149. - - Wat’hongwe tribe, country of the, ii. 154. - - Wat’hongwe Kapana, Sultan, ii. 154. - - Watosi tribe in Msene, i. 396. Their present habitat, ii. 185. Account - of them and their manners and customs, 185. - - Watuta tribe, hills of the, i. 408. History of, ii. 75. Their present - habitat, 76. Their wanderings and forays, 76, 77. Their women, 77. - Their arms, 77. Their tactics, 77. Their fear of fire-arms, 77. Their - hospitality and strange traits, 77. Their attack on the territory of - Kannena, ii. 156. - - Wavinza tribe, i. 407. Personal appearance and character of the, - ii. 75. Arms of the, 75. Inhospitality of the, 75. Drunkenness of the, - 75. - - Wavira tribe, civility of the, ii. 115. - - Wayfanya, return to, ii. 123. A slave mortally wounded at, 124. - - Wazaramo tribe, the, i. 19. - - Wazaramo, or Wazalamo, territory of the, i. 54. Visit from the P’hazi, - or headmen, i. 54. Women’s dance of ceremony, 55. Tombs of the tribe, - 57. Stoppage of the guard of the expedition by the Wazaramo, 70. - Ethnology of the race, 107. Their dialect, 107. Subtribes of, 108. - Distinctive marks of the tribe, 108. Albinos of the, 109. Dress of - the, 109. Ornaments and arms of the, 110. Houses of the, 110. - Character of the, 112. Their government, 113. The Sare, or brother - oath, of the, 114. Births and deaths, 118. Funeral ceremonies, 118, - 119. “Industry” of the tribe, 119. - - Wazegura tribe, i. 124. Their habitat, 125. Their arms, 125. Their - kidnapping practices, 125. Their government, 125. Their character, - 126. - - Wazige tribe described, ii. 146. - - Waziraha, a subtribe of the Wak’hutu, i. 122. Described, 123. - - Weights and measures in Zanzibar, ii. 389, 391. - - Weapons in East Africa, ii. 300. - - Weaving in East Africa, ii. 309. - - White land, African curiosity respecting, i. 261. - - Whirlwinds in Unyamwezi, ii. 11, 13. - - Wife of Sultan Magomba, i. 266. - - Wigo hill, i. 93, 159. - - Wilyankuru, Eastern, passed through, i. 390. - - Winds in Unyamwezi, ii. 9, 10. In Central Africa, 50. Periodical of - Lake Tanganyika, 143. In Karagwah, ii. 180. - - Windy Pass, or Pass of Rubeho, painful ascent of, i. 213. Village of - Wasagara at, 218. - - Wine, plantain, of Karagwah, ii. 180. And of Uganda, 197. - - Wire, mode of carrying, in the expedition, i. 145. As an article of - commerce, 146, 150. - - Witch, or mganga, of East Africa, i. 380. - - Witchcraft, belief in, in East Africa, ii. 347. Office of the mganga, - 356. - - Women in East Africa, ii. 298, 330, 332, 334. - - ---- of Karagwah, ii. 182. - - ---- of the Wabuha, ii. 78. - - ---- ---- Wagogo, i. 304, 305, 310. - - ---- ---- Wahehe, i. 239. - - ---- ---- Wajiji, ii. 62-64. - - ---- ---- Wak’hutu, i. 120. - - ---- ---- Wamrima, i. 16, 34. - - ---- ---- Wanyamwezi, i. 388, 396, 398; ii. 21, 23, 24. - - ---- ---- Warundi, ii. 146. - - ---- ---- Wasagara, i. 234, 236. - - ---- ---- Wataturu, ii. 221. - - ---- ---- Watuta, ii. 77. - - ---- ---- Wazaramo, i. 55, 61, 63, 110, 116, 118. - - ---- “Lulliloo” of the Wanyamwezi, i. 291. - - ---- physicians in East Africa, ii. 323. - - ---- Dance by themselves in East Africa, i. 361. - - ---- Handsome, at Yombo, i. 388. - - ---- Slave-girls of the coast Arabs on the march up country, i. 314. - - ---- The Iwanza, or public-houses of the women of Unyamwezi, ii. 27. - - ---- Of the Wabwari islanders, ii. 113. - - Wood-apples in Unyamwezi, i. 318. - - Woodward, Mr. S. P., his description of shells brought from Tanganyika - Lake, ii. 102, _note_. - - - Xylophagus, the, in East African houses, i. 370. - - - Yegea mud, i. 83. - - Yombo, halt of the party at, i. 387. Description of, 387. The sunset - hour at, 387. Return to, ii. 166. - - Yovu, river, ii. 257, 258. Forded, 258. - - Yovu, village of, described, i. 396. - - - Zanzibar, view of, from the sea, i. 1. What the island is not, 2. - Family, 2, 3. History of the word “Zanzibar,” 28. Its geographical - position, 29. Weakness of the government of, in the interior of the - continent, 98. The eight seasons of, ii. 8. Slave-trade of, 377. - Troubles in, 380. General trade of, Appendix to vol. ii. - - Zawada, the lady, added to the caravan, i. 210. Her services to Capt. - Speke, ii. 277. - - Zebras, in the Rufuta plains, i. 183. At Ziwa, 251. In Unyamwezi, - ii. 15. - - Zemzemiyah of East Africa, ii. 239. - - Zeze, or guitar, of East Africa, ii. 291. - - Zik el nafas, or asthma, remedy in East Africa for, i. 96. - - Zimbili, halt of the caravan at, i. 386. Description of, 386. - - Ziwa, or the Pond, i. 244. Water obtained from the, 250. Description - of the, 251. Troubles of the expedition at, 254. - - Zohnwe river, i. 172. - - Zohnwe settlement, i. 173. Adventures of the expedition at, 173. - - Zungomero, district of, described, i. 93. Commerce of, 95. Attractions - of, 95. Food of, 95-97. Cause of the ivory touters of, 97. Halt of the - expedition at, i. 127. Pestilence of, 127, 163. Fresh porters engaged - at, 128. Life at, 156. Return to, ii. 264. Departure from, 276. - - -THE END. - - - LONDON: - PRINTED BY SPOTTISWOODE AND CO. - NEW-STREET SQUARE. - - - - - Transcriber’s Notes - - - Spelling variants, inconsistent, archaic and unusual spelling, - hyphenation, capitalisation, use of accents, etc., also in proper and - geographical names and in non-English words, have been retained, - except as listed under Changes below. The names of peoples, tribes, - other groups and localities in particular occur in different - varieties, either accidentally or deliberately. Factual and textual - errors, inconsistencies and contradictions have not been corrected or - standardised. - - Depending on the hard- and software used to read this text, not all - elements may display as intended. - - Index: the deviations from the alphabetical order of the main entries - have not been corrected. - - - Changes made: - - Page vii: Entry Map of the Routes added. - - Page 389: 2 Nusu = Dollar changed to 2 Nusu = 1 Dollar. - - Page430: Heading FIRST CORRESPONDENCE. inserted. - -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LAKE REGIONS OF CENTRAL -AFRICA *** - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the -United States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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padding-left: 1em; text-indent: -1em; vertical-align: top;} - table.tocloi td.pagno - {text-align: right; white-space: nowrap; vertical-align: bottom; padding-left: 2em;} - th - {font-weight: normal; white-space: nowrap; text-align: center; vertical-align: bottom; padding-left: .1em; padding-right: .1em;} - .titlepage - {margin: 2em auto; padding: 2em; text-align: center; border: solid medium; max-width: 35em;} - .titlepage hr.short - {margin: .5em 45%; width: 10%;} - .tnbot - {border: dashed thin; margin: 1em 10%; padding: .5em;} - .tnbot h2 - {font-size: 1em;} - .tnbot p - {text-indent: -1em; margin-left: 1em;} - .tnbox - {border: dashed thin; margin: 1em 20%; padding: 1em;} - ul.index - {list-style: none; margin: 1.5em 0; font-size: .9em;} - ul.index li - {text-align: justify; margin: 0 0 0 1em; text-indent: -1em;} - ul.index li.level1 - {margin-left: 3em;} - ul.index li.newletter - {margin-top: 1.5em;} - ul.index .pagenum - {font-size: .8em;} - - </style> - </head> -<body> - -<div style='text-align:center; font-size:1.2em; font-weight:bold'>The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Lake Regions of Central Africa, by Richard Francis Burton</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online -at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you -are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the -country where you are located before using this eBook. -</div> - -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: The Lake Regions of Central Africa</p> -<p style='display:block; margin-top:0; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:0;'>A Picture of Exploration, Vol. 2</p> - -<div style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: Richard Francis Burton</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: November 24, 2021 [eBook #66813]</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Character set encoding: UTF-8</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Produced by: Emmanuel Ackerman, Harry Lamé and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive)</div> - -<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LAKE REGIONS OF CENTRAL AFRICA ***</div> - -<div class="tnbox"> - -<p class="noindent">Please see the <a href="#TN">Transcriber’s Notes</a> at the end of this text.</p> - -<p class="noindent blankbefore75">The cover image has been created for this text, and is in the public domain.</p> - -</div><!--tnbox--> - -<div class="x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="container w30em"> -<img src="images/ii_cover.jpg" alt="Cover" /> -</div> - -</div><!--scr only--> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<h1><span class="fsize70">THE</span><br /> -LAKE REGIONS <span class="fsize70">OF</span> CENTRAL AFRICA<br /> -<span class="fsize60">VOL. II.</span></h1> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p class="printer">LONDON<br /> -<span class="gesp1">PRINTED BY SPOTTISWOODE AND CO</span>.<br /> -NEW-STREET SQUARE</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="container" id="Illoii-1"> -<img src="images/ii_illo004.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">NAVIGATION OF THE TANGANYIKA LAKE.</p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="titlepage"> - -<p class="center highline6"><span class="fsize80">THE</span><br /> -<span class="fsize125">LAKE REGIONS <span class="fsize80">OF</span> CENTRAL AFRICA</span><br /> -<span class="fsize80">A PICTURE OF EXPLORATION</span></p> - -<p class="center highline2 blankbefore4 blankafter4"><span class="fsize80">BY</span><br /> -RICHARD F. BURTON<br /> -<span class="fsize70">Capt. H. M. I. Army: Fellow and Gold Medallist of the Royal Geographical Society</span></p> - -<hr class="short" /> - -<div class="poetry-container"> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="stanza"> -<span class="indent0">“<i>Some to discover islands far away</i>”—<i>Shakspere</i><br /></span> -</div> -</div> - -</div><!--poetry-container--> - -<hr class="short" /> - -<p class="center highline4 blankbefore4"><span class="fsize90">IN TWO VOLUMES</span><br /> -VOL. II.</p> - -<p class="center highline2 blankbefore4">LONDON<br /> -LONGMAN, GREEN, LONGMAN, AND ROBERTS<br /> -1860</p> - -<p class="center fsize70 blankbefore4"><i>The right of translation is reserved</i></p> - -</div><!--titlepage--> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-v">[v]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak frontmatter">CONTENTS<br /> -<span class="fsize50">OF</span><br /> -<span class="fsize80"><span class="gesp2">THE SECOND VOLUME</span>.</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<table class="tocloi" summary="ToC"> - -<tr> -<th> </th> -<th class="right padl2 fsize80">Page</th> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chap notop">CHAPTER XII.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="descr">The Geography and Ethnology of Unyamwezi.—The Fourth Region</td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Pageii-1">1</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chap">CHAP. XIII.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="descr">At length we sight the Lake Tanganyika, the “Sea of Ujiji.”</td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Pageii-34">34</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chap">CHAP. XIV.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="descr">We explore the Tanganyika Lake</td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Pageii-80">80</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chap">CHAP. XV.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="descr">The Tanganyika Lake and its Periplus</td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Pageii-134">134</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chap">CHAP. XVI.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="descr">We return to Unyanyembe</td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Pageii-155">155</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chap">CHAP. XVII.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="descr">The Down-march to the Coast</td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Pageii-223">223</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chap">CHAP. XVIII.<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-vi">[vi]</span></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="descr">Village Life in East Africa</td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Pageii-278">278</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chap">CHAP. XIX.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="descr">The Character and Religion of the East Africans; their Government, and Slavery</td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Pageii-324">324</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="descr blankbefore2">Conclusion</td> -<td class="pagno blankbefore2"><a href="#Pageii-379">379</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="chap blankbefore4">APPENDICES.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="descr"><span class="smcap">Appendix <span class="dontshow">I</span>I.</span>: Commerce, Imports, and Exports</td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Pageii-387">387</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="descr"><span class="smcap">Appendix II.</span>: Official Correspondence</td> -<td class="pagno"><a href="#Pageii-420">420</a></td> -</tr> - -</table> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-vii">[vii]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak frontmatter">LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS<br /> -<span class="fsize50">IN</span><br /> -<span class="fsize80 gesp2">THE SECOND VOLUME.</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<table class="tocloi" summary="LoI"> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="chap">CHROMOXYLOGRAPHS.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="descr"><a href="#Illoii-1">Navigation of the Tanganyika Lake</a></td> -<td colspan="2" class="pagno"><i>Frontispiece.</i></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="descr"><a href="#Illoii-2">View in Usagara</a></td> -<td class="right nowrap"><i>to face page</i></td> -<td class="pagno">1</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="descr"><a href="#Illoii-3">Snay bin Amir’s House</a></td> -<td class="center padl2">„</td> -<td class="pagno">155</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="descr"><a href="#Illoii-4">Saydumi, a native of Uganda</a></td> -<td class="center padl2">„</td> -<td class="pagno">223</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="descr"><a href="#Illoii-5">The Basin of Maroro</a></td> -<td class="center padl2">„</td> -<td class="pagno">255</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="descr"><a href="#Illoii-6">The Basin of Kisanga</a></td> -<td class="center padl2">„</td> -<td class="pagno">278</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="map"><a href="#Illoii-21">Map of the Routes between Zanzibar and the Great Lakes in Eastern -Africa in 1857, 1858 & 1859, by R. F. Burton</a></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="3" class="chap">WOODCUTS.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="descr"><a href="#Illoii-7">Iwanza, or public-houses; with Looms to the left</a></td> -<td colspan="2" class="pagno">1</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="descr"><a href="#Illoii-8">My Tembe near the Tangangika</a></td> -<td colspan="2" class="pagno">34</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="descr"><a href="#Illoii-9">Head Dresses of Wanyamwezi</a></td> -<td colspan="2" class="pagno">80</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="descr"><a href="#Illoii-10">African heads, and Ferry-boat</a></td> -<td colspan="2" class="pagno">134</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="descr"><a href="#Illoii-11">Portraits of Muinyi Kidogo, the Kirangozi, the Mganga, &c.</a></td> -<td colspan="2" class="pagno">155</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="descr"><a href="#Illoii-12">Mgongo Thembo, or the Elephant’s Back</a></td> -<td colspan="2" class="pagno">223</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="descr"><a href="#Illoii-13">Jiwe la Mkoa, the Round Rock</a></td> -<td colspan="2" class="pagno">242</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="descr"><a href="#Illoii-14">Rufita Pass in Usagara</a></td> -<td colspan="2" class="pagno">259</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="descr"><a href="#Illoii-15">The Ivory Porter, the Cloth Porter, and Woman in Usagara</a></td> -<td colspan="2" class="pagno">278</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="descr"><a href="#Illoii-16">Gourd, Stool, Bellows, Guitar, and Drum</a></td> -<td colspan="2" class="pagno">292</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="descr"><a href="#Illoii-17">Gourds</a></td> -<td colspan="2" class="pagno">313</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="descr"><a href="#Illoii-18">A Mnyamwezi and a Mheha</a></td> -<td colspan="2" class="pagno">324</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="descr"><a href="#Illoii-19">The Bull-headed Mabruki, and the African standing position</a></td> -<td colspan="2" class="pagno">378</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="descr"><a href="#Illoii-20">The Elephant Rock</a></td> -<td colspan="2" class="pagno">384</td> -</tr> - -</table> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="container" id="Illoii-2"> -<img src="images/ii_illo012.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">VIEW IN USAGARA.</p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-1">[1]</span></p> - -<p class="fauxh1"><span class="fsize50">THE</span><br /> -LAKE REGIONS OF CENTRAL AFRICA.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="container w40em" id="Illoii-7"> - -<img src="images/ii_illo013.jpg" alt="" /> - -<p class="caption">A village interior in the Land of the Moon.</p> - -<div class="split5050"> - -<div class="left5050"> -<p class="caption">Utanta or loom.</p> -</div> - -<div class="right5050"> -<p class="caption">Iwanza, or public houses.</p> -</div> - -<p class="thinline allclear"> </p> - -</div><!--split--> - -</div><!--container--> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapno">CHAPTER XII.</span><br /> -<span class="chapname">THE GEOGRAPHY AND ETHNOLOGY OF UNYAMWEZI.—THE FOURTH -REGION.</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p class="noindent">The fourth division is a hilly table-land, extending -from the western skirts of the desert Mgunda Mk’hali, -in E. long. 33° 57′, to the eastern banks of the Malagarazi -River, in E. long. 31° 10′: it thus stretches -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-2">[2]</span> -diagonally over 155 rectilinear geographical miles. -Bounded on the north by Usui and the Nyanza Lake, -to the south-eastwards by Ugala, southwards by Ukimbu, -and south-westwards by Uwende, it has a depth of from -twenty-five to thirty marches. Native caravans, if -lightly laden, can accomplish it in twenty-five days, -including four halts. The maximum altitude observed -by B. P. therm. was 4050 feet, the minimum 2850. -This region contains the two great divisions of Unyamwezi -and Uvinza.</p> - -<p>The name of Unyamwezi was first heard by the -Portuguese, according to Giovanni Botero, towards the -end of the sixteenth century, or about 1589. Pigafetta, -who, in 1591, systematised the discoveries of the -earlier Portuguese, placed the empire of “Monemugi” -or Munimigi in a vast triangular area, whose limits -were Monomotapa, Congo, and Abyssinia: from his -pages it appears that the people of this central kingdom -were closely connected by commerce with the towns on -the eastern coast of Africa. According to Dapper, the -Dutch historian, (1671,) whose work has been the great -mine of information to subsequent writers upon Africa -south of the equator, about sixty days’ journey from -the Atlantic is the kingdom of Monemugi, which others -call “Nimeamaye,” a name still retained under the corrupted -form “Nimeaye” in our atlases. M. Malte-Brun, -senior, mentioning Mounemugi, adds, “ou, selon -une autographe plus authentique, <i>Mou-nimougi</i>.” All -the Portuguese authors call the people Monemugi or -Mono-emugi; Mr. Cooley prefers Monomoezi, which he -derives from “Munha Munge,” or “lord of the world,” the -title of a great African king in the interior, commemorated -by the historian De Barros. Mr. Macqueen (‘Geography -of Central Africa’), who also gives Manmoise, -declares that “Mueno-muge, Mueno-muize, Monomoise, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-3">[3]</span> -and Uniamese,” relate to the same place and people, -comprehending a large extent of country in the interior -of Africa: he explains the word erroneously to mean -the “great Moises or Movisas.” The Rev. Mr. Erhardt -asserts that for facility of pronunciation the coast merchants -have turned the name “Wanamesi” into “Waniamesi,” -which also leads his readers into error. The -Rev. Mr. Livingstone thus endorses the mistake of -Messrs. Macqueen and Erhardt: “The names Monomoizes, -spelt also Monemuigis and Monomuizes, and -Monomotapistas, when applied to the tribes, are exactly -the same as if we should call the Scotch the Lord -Douglases.... Monomoizes was formed from Moiza or -Muiza, the singular of the word Babisa or Aiza, the -proper name of a large tribe to the north.” In these -sentences there is a confusion between the lands of the -Wanyamwezi, lying under the parallel of the Tanganyika -Lake, and the Wabisa (in the singular Mbísá, the -Wavisa of the Rev. Mr. Rebmann), a well-known commercial -tribe dwelling about the Maravi or Nyassa Lake, -S.W. of Kilwa, whose name in times of old was corrupted -by the Portuguese to Movizas or Movisas. -Finally M. Guillain, in a work already alluded to, states -correctly the name of the people to be Oua-nyamouczi, -but in designating the country “pays de Nyamouezi,” -he shows little knowledge of the Zangian dialects. -M. V. A. Malte-Brun, junior (‘Bulletin de Géographie,’ -Paris, 1856, Part II. p. 295) correctly writes -Wanyamwezi.</p> - -<p>A name so discrepantly corrupted deserves some -notice. Unyamwezi is translated by Dr. Krapf and -the Rev. Mr. Rebmann, “Possessions of the Moon.” -The initial U, the causal and locative prefix, denotes -the land, nya, of, and mwezi, articulated m’ezí with -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-4">[4]</span> -semi-elision of the w, means the moon. The people -sometimes pronounce their country name Unyamiezi, -which would be a plural form, miezi signifying moons -or months. The Arabs and the people of Zanzibar, for -facility and rapidity of pronunciation, dispense with -the initial dissyllable, and call the country and its race -Mwezi. The correct designation of the inhabitants of -Unyamwezi is, therefore, Mnyamwezi in the singular, -and Wanyamwezi in the plural: Kinyamwezi is the -adjectival form. It is not a little curious that the Greeks -should have placed their της σεληνης ορος—the mountain -of the moon—and the Hindus their Soma Giri (an expression -probably translated from the former), in the -vicinity of the African “Land of the Moon.” It is -impossible to investigate the antiquity of the vernacular -term; all that can be discovered is, that nearly 350 -years ago the Portuguese explorers of Western Africa -heard the country designated by its present name.</p> - -<p>There is the evidence of barbarous tradition for a -belief in the existence of Unyamwezi as a great empire, -united under a single despot. The elders declare that -their patriarchal ancestor became after death the first -tree, and afforded shade to his children and descendants. -According to the Arabs the people still perform -pilgrimage to a holy tree, and believe that the penalty -of sacrilege in cutting off a twig would be visited by -sudden and mysterious death. All agree in relating -that during the olden time Unyamwezi was united -under a single sovereign, whose tribe was the Wakalaganza, -still inhabiting the western district, Usagozi. According -to the people, whose greatest chronical measure -is a Masika, or rainy season, in the days of the grandfathers -of their grandfathers the last of the Wanyamwezi -emperors died. His children and nobles divided -and dismembered his dominions, further partitions ensued, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-5">[5]</span> -and finally the old empire fell into the hands of a -rabble of petty chiefs. Their wild computation would -point to an epoch of 150 years ago—a date by no means -improbable.</p> - -<p>These glimmerings of light thrown by African tradition -illustrate the accounts given by the early Portuguese -concerning the extent and the civilisation of the -Unyamwezi empire. Moreover, African travellers in the -seventeenth century concur in asserting that, between -250 and 300 years ago, there was an outpouring of the -barbarians from the heart of Æthiopia and from the -shores of the Central Lake towards the eastern and -southern coasts of the peninsula, a general waving and -wandering of tribes which caused great ethnological -and geographical confusion, public demoralisation, dismemberment -of races, and change, confusion, and corruption -of tongues. About this period it is supposed -the kingdom of Mtándá, the first Kazembe, was established. -The Kafirs of the Cape also date their migration -from the northern regions to the banks of the Kei -about a century and a half ago.</p> - -<p>In these days Unyamwezi has returned to the political -status of Eastern Africa in the time of the Periplus. It -is broken up into petty divisions, each ruled by its -own tyrant; his authority never extends beyond five -marches; moreover, the minor chiefs of the different -districts are virtually independent of their suzerains. -One language is spoken throughout the land of the -Moon, but the dialectic differences are such that the -tribes in the east with difficulty understand their -brethren in the west. The principal provinces are—Utakama -to the extreme north, Usukuma on the south,—in -Kinyamwezi sukuma means the north, takama the -south, kiya the east, and mwere the west,—Unyanyembe -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-6">[6]</span> -in the centre, Ufyoma and Utumbara in the -north-west, Unyangwira in the south-east, Usagozi and -Usumbwá to the westward. The three normal divisions -of the people are into Wanyamwezi, Wasukuma or -northern, and Watakama or southern.</p> - -<p>The general character of Unyamwezi is rolling ground, -intersected with low conical and tabular hills, whose lines -ramify in all directions. No mountain is found in the -country. The superjacent stratum is clay, overlying the -sandstone based upon various granites, which in some -places crop out, picturesquely disposed in blocks and -boulders and huge domes and lumpy masses; ironstone is -met with at a depth varying from five to twelve feet, and -at Kazeh, the Arab settlement in Unyanyembe, bits of -coarse ore were found by digging not more than four -feet in a chance spot. During the rains a coat of -many-tinted greens conceals the soil; in the dry season -the land is grey, lighted up by golden stubbles -and dotted with wind-distorted trees, shallow swamps -of emerald grass, and wide sheets of dark mud. -Dwarfed stumps and charred “black-jacks” deform -the fields, which are sometimes ditched or hedged in, -whilst a thin forest of parachute-shaped thorns diversifies -the waves of rolling land and earth-hills spotted -with sun-burnt stone. The reclaimed tracts and clearings -are divided from one another by strips of primæval -jungle, varying from two to twelve miles in length. As -in most parts of Eastern Africa, the country is dotted -with “fairy mounts”—dwarf mounds, the ancient sites -of trees now crumbled to dust, and the débris of insect -architecture; they appear to be rich ground, as they are -always diligently cultivated. The yield of the soil, according -to the Arabs, averages sixty-fold, even in unfavourable -seasons.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-7">[7]</span></p> - -<p>The Land of the Moon, which is the garden of -Central Intertropical Africa, presents an aspect of -peaceful rural beauty which soothes the eye like a -medicine after the red glare of barren Ugogo, and the -dark monotonous verdure of the western provinces. -The inhabitants are comparatively numerous in the -villages, which rise at short intervals above their impervious -walls of the lustrous green milk-bush, with -its coral-shaped arms, variegating the well-hoed plains; -whilst in the pasture-lands frequent herds of many-coloured -cattle, plump, round-barrelled, and high-humped, -like the Indian breeds, and mingled flocks of -goats and sheep dispersed over the landscape, suggest -ideas of barbarous comfort and plenty. There are few -scenes more soft and soothing than a view of Unyamwezi -in the balmy evenings of spring. As the large -yellow sun nears the horizon, a deep stillness falls upon -earth: even the zephyr seems to lose the power of rustling -the lightest leaf. The milky haze of midday disappears -from the firmament, the flush of departing day -mantles the distant features of scenery with a lovely -rose-tint, and the twilight is an orange glow that burns -like distant horizontal fires, passing upwards through an -imperceptibly graduated scale of colours—saffron, yellow, -tender green, and the lightest azure—into the dark -blue of the infinite space above. The charm of the -hour seems to affect even the unimaginative Africans, -as they sit in the central spaces of their villages, or, -stretched under the forest-trees, gaze upon the glories -around.</p> - -<p>In Unyamwezi water generally lies upon the surface, -during the rains, in broad shallow pools, which become -favourite sites for rice-fields. These little ziwa and -mbuga—ponds and marshes—vary from two to five -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-8">[8]</span> -feet below the level of the land; in the dry season -they are betrayed from afar by a green line of livelier -vegetation streaking the dead tawny plain. The Arabs -seldom dig their wells deeper than six feet, and they -complain of the want of “live-water” gushing from the -rocky ground, as in their native Oman. The country -contains few springs, and the surface of retentive clay -prevents the moisture penetrating to the subsoil. The -peculiarity of the produce is its decided chalybeate -flavour. The versant of the country varies. The -eastern third, falling to the south-east, discharges its -surplus supplies through the Rwaha river into the -Indian Ocean; in the centre, water seems to stagnate; -and in the western third, the flow, turning to the north -and north-west, is carried by the Gombe nullah—a -string of pools during the dry season, and a rapid unfordable -stream during the rains—into the great Malagarazi -river, the principal eastern influent of the Tanganyika -Lake. The levels of the country and the direction -of the waters combine to prove that the great depression -of Central Africa, alluded to in the preceding chapter, -commences in the district of Kigwa in Unyamwezi.</p> - -<p>The climate of the island and coast of Zanzibar has, -it must be remembered, double seasons, which are exceedingly -confused and irregular. The lands of Unyamwezi -and Uvinza, on the other hand, are as -remarkable for simplicity of division. There eight -seasons disturb the idea of year; here but two—a -summer and a winter. Central Africa has, as the -Spaniards say of the Philippine Isles,</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - -<div class="stanza"> -<span class="verse indent00">“Seis mezes de polvo,<br /></span> -<span class="verse indent0">Seis mezes de lodo.”<br /></span> -</div><!--stanza--> - -</div><!--poetry--> -</div><!--poetry-container--> - -<p class="noindent">In 1857 the Masika, or rains, commenced throughout -Eastern Unyamwezi on the 14th of November. In the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-9">[9]</span> -northern and western provinces the wet monsoon begins -earlier and lasts longer. At Msene it precedes Unyanyembe -about a month; in Ujiji, Karagwah, and Uganda, -nearly two months. Thus the latter countries have a -rainy season which lasts from the middle of September -till the middle of May.</p> - -<p>The moisture-bearing wind in this part of Africa is -the fixed south-east trade, deflected, as in the great -valley of the Mississippi and in the island of Ceylon, -into a periodical south-west monsoon. As will appear -in these pages, the downfalls begin earlier in Central -Africa than upon the eastern coast, and from the latter -point they travel by slow degrees, with the northing -sun, to the north-east, till they find a grave upon the -rocky slopes of the Himalayas.</p> - -<p>The rainy monsoon is here ushered in, accompanied, -and terminated by storms of thunder and lightning, -and occasional hail-falls. The blinding flashes of -white, yellow, or rose colour play over the firmament -uninterruptedly for hours, during which no -darkness is visible. In the lighter storms thirty and -thirty-five flashes may be counted in a minute: so vivid -is the glare that it discloses the finest shades of colour, -and appears followed by a thick and palpable gloom, -such as would hang before a blind man’s eyes, whilst a -deafening roar simultaneously following the flash, seems -to travel, as it were, to and fro overhead. Several -claps sometimes sound almost at the same moment, and -as if coming from different directions. The same storm -will, after the most violent of its discharges, pass over, -and be immediately followed by a second, showing the -superabundance of electricity in the atmosphere. When -hail is about to fall, a rushing noise is heard in the air, -with sudden coolness and a strange darkness from the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-10">[10]</span> -canopy of brownish purple clouds. The winds are -exceedingly variable: perhaps they are most often from -the east and north-east during summer, from the north-west -and south-west in the rains; but they are answered -from all quarters of the heavens, and the most violent -storms sail up against the lower atmospheric currents. -The Portuguese of the Mozambique attribute these terrible -discharges of electricity to the quantity of mineral -substances scattered about the country; but a steaming -land like Eastern Africa wants, during the rains, no -stronger battery. In the rainy season the sensation is -that experienced during the equinoctial gales in the -Mediterranean, where the scirocco diffuses everywhere -discomfort and disease. The fall is not, as in Western -India, a steady downpour, lasting sometimes two or -three days without a break. In Central Africa, rain -seldom endures beyond twelve hours, and it often assumes -for weeks an appearance of regularity, re-occurring -at a certain time. Night is its normal season; the mornings -are often wet, and the torrid midday is generally -dry. As in Southern Africa, a considerable decrease -of temperature is the consequence of long-continued -rain. Westward of Unyanyembe, hail-storms, during -the rainy monsoon, are frequent and violent; according -to the Arabs, the stones sometimes rival pigeons’ eggs in -size. Throughout this monsoon the sun burns with sickly -depressing rays, which make earth reek like a garment -hung out to dry. Yet this is not considered the unhealthy -period: the inundation is too deep, and evaporation -is yet unable to extract sufficient poison from -decay.</p> - -<p>As in India and the southern regions of Africa, the -deadly season follows the wet monsoon from the middle -of May to the end of June. The kosi or south-west -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-11">[11]</span> -wind gives place to the kaskazi, or north-east, about -April, a little later than at Zanzibar. The cold gales -and the fervid suns then affect the outspread waters; -the rivers, having swollen during the weeks of violent -downfall that usher in the end of the rains, begin to -shrink, and miry morasses and swamps of black vegetable -mud line the low-lands whose central depths are -still under water. The winds, cooled by excessive -evaporation and set in motion by the heat, howl over -the country by night and day, dispersing through the -population colds and catarrhs, agues and rheumatisms, -dysenteries and deadly fevers. It must, however, be -remarked that many cases which in India and Sindh -would be despaired of, survived in Eastern Africa.</p> - -<p>The hot season, or summer, lasting from the end of -June till nearly the middle of November, forms the -complement of the year. The air now becomes healthy -and temperate; the cold, raw winds rarely blow, and -the people recover from their transition diseases. At -long intervals, during these months, but a few grateful -and refreshing showers, accompanied by low thunderings, -cool the air and give life to the earth. These -phenomena are expected after the change of the moon, -and not, as in Zanzibar, during her last quarter. The -Arabs declare that here, as in the island, rain sometimes -falls from a clear sky—a phenomenon not unknown to -African travellers. The drought affects the country -severely, a curious exception to the rule in the zone of -perpetual rain; and after August whirlwinds of dust -become frequent. At this time the climate is most -agreeable to the senses; even in the hottest nights a -blanket is welcome, especially about dawn, and it is -possible to dine at 3 or 4 <span class="smcapall">P.M.</span>, when in India the exertion -would be impracticable. During the day a ring-cloud, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-12">[12]</span> -or a screen of vapour, almost invariably tempers -the solar rays; at night a halo, or a corona, generally -encircles the moon. The clouds are chiefly cumulus, -cumulo-stratus, and nimbus; the sky is often overcast -with large white masses floating, apparently without -motion, upon the milky haze, and in the serenest -weather a few threads are seen pencilled upon the -expanse above. Sunrise is seldom thoroughly clear, -and, when so, the clouds, sublimed in other regions and -brought up by the rising winds, begin to gather in the -forenoon. They are melted, as it were, by the fervent -heat of the sun between noon and 3 <span class="smcapall">P.M.</span>, at which time -also the breezes fall light. Thick mists collect about -sunset, and by night the skies are seldom free from -clouds. The want of heat to dilate the atmosphere at -this season, and the light-absorbing vegetation which -clothes the land, causes a peculiar dimness in the Galaxy -and “Magellan’s Clouds.” The twilight also is short, -and the zodiacal light is not observed. The suffocating -sensation of the tropics is unknown, and at noon in the -month of September—the midsummer of this region—the -thermometer, defended from the wind, in a single-fold -Arab tent, never exceeded 113° Fahr. Except -during the rains, the dews are not heavy, as in Zanzibar, -in the alluvial valleys, and in Usagara and Ujiji: -the people do not fear exposure to them, though, as in -parts of France, they consider dew-wetted grass unwholesome -for cattle. The Arabs stand bathing in -the occasional torrents of rain without the least apprehension. -The temperature varies too little for the -European constitution, which requires a winter. The -people, however, scarcely care to clothe themselves. -The flies and mosquitoes—those pests of most African -countries—are here a minor annoyance.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-13">[13]</span></p> - -<p>The principal cause of disease during the summer of -Unyamwezi is the east wind, which, refrigerated by the -damp alluvial valleys of the first region and the tree-clad -peaks and swampy plains of Usagara, sweeps the -country, like the tramontanas of Italy, with a freezing -cold in the midst of an atmosphere properly tepid. -These unnatural combinations of extremes, causing -sudden chills when the skin perspires, bring on inevitable -disease; strangers often suffer severely, and the -influenza is as much feared in Unyamwezi as in England. -The east wind is even more dangerous in the hut than -in the field: draughts from the four quarters play upon -the patient, making one side of the body tremble with -cold, whilst the other, defended by the wall or heated -by the fire, burns with fever-glow. The gales are most -violent immediately after the cessation of the rains; -about the beginning of August they become warmer -and fall light. At this time frequent whirlwinds sweep -from the sun-parched land clouds of a fine and penetrating -clay-dust; and slight shocks of earthquakes are -by no means uncommon. Three were observed by the -Expedition—at noon on the 14th of June, 1858; on the -morning of the 13th of June; and at 5 <span class="smcapall">P.M.</span> on the 22nd -of November, 1858. The motion, though mild, was -distinctly perceptible; unfortunately, means of ascertaining -the direction were wanted. The people of the -country call this phenomenon “Tetemeka,” or the -trembling; and the Arabs remember a shock of a -serious nature which took place at Unyanyembe in the -hot season of 1852. After September, though the land -is parched with drought, the trees begin to put forth -their leaves; it is the coupling season of beasts, and the -period of nidification and incubation for birds. The -gradual lowering of the temperature, caused by the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-14">[14]</span> -southern declination of the sun, acts like the genial -warmth of an English spring. As all sudden changes -from siccity to humidity are prejudicial to man, there -is invariably severe disease at the end of the summer, -when the rains set in.</p> - -<p>Travellers from Unyamwezi homeward returned often -represent that country to be the healthiest in Eastern -and Central Africa: they quote, as a proof, the -keenness of their appetites and the quantity of food -which they consume. The older residents, however, -modify their opinions: they declare that digestion does -not wait upon appetite; and that, as in Egypt, Mazanderan, -Malabar, and other hot-damp countries, no man -long retains rude health. The sequelæ of their maladies -are always severe; few care to use remedies, -deeming them inefficacious against morbific influences -to them unknown; convalescence is protracted, -painful, and uncertain, and at length they are compelled -to lead the lives of confirmed invalids. The gifts of -the climate, lassitude and indolence, according to them, -predispose to corpulence; and the regular warmth -induces baldness, and thins the beard, thus assimilating -strangers in body as in mind to the aborigines. They -are unanimous in quoting a curious effect of climate, -which they attribute to a corruption of the “humours -and juices of the body.” Men who, after a lengthened -sojourn in these regions return to Oman, throw away -the surplus provisions brought from the African coast, -burn their clothes and bedding, and for the first two or -three months eschew society; a peculiar effluvium rendering -them, it is said, offensive to the finer olfactories -of their compatriots.</p> - -<p>The Mukunguru of Unyamwezi is perhaps the severest -seasoning fever in this part of Africa. It is a -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-15">[15]</span> -bilious remittent, which normally lasts three days; it -wonderfully reduces the patient in that short period, -and in severe cases the quotidian is followed by a long -attack of a tertian type. The consequences are severe -and lasting even in men of the strongest nervous diathesis; -burning and painful eyes, hot palms and soles, -a recurrence of shivering and flushing fits, with the -extremities now icy cold, then painfully hot and swollen, -indigestion, insomnolency, cutaneous eruptions and -fever sores, languor, dejection, and all the inconveniences -resulting from torpidity of liver, or from an -inordinate secretion of bile, betray the poison deep-lurking -in the system. In some cases this fever works -speedily; some even, becoming at once delirious, die -on the first or the second day, and there is invariably -an exacerbation of symptoms before the bilious remittent -passes away.</p> - -<p>The fauna of Unyamwezi are similar to those described -in Usagara and Ugogo. In the jungles quadrumana -are numerous; lions and leopards, cynhyænas -and wild cats haunt the forests; the elephant and the -rhinoceros, the giraffe and the Cape buffalo, the zebra, -the quagga (?), and the koodoo wander over the plains; -and the hippopotamus and crocodile are found in every -large pool. The nyanyi or cynocephalus in the jungles -of Usukuma attains the size of a greyhound; according -to the people, there are three varieties of colour—red, -black, and yellow. They are the terror of the neighbouring -districts: women never dare to approach -their haunts; they set the leopard at defiance, and, -when in a large body, they do not, it is said, fear the lion. -The Colobus guereza, or tippet monkey, the “polume” -of Dr. Livingstone (ch. xvi.), here called mbega, is admired -on account of its polished black skin and snowy-white -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-16">[16]</span> -mane. It is a cleanly animal, ever occupied in -polishing its beautiful garb, which, according to the -Arabs, it tears to pieces when wounded, lest the hunter -should profit by it. The mbega lives in trees, seldom -descending, and feeds upon the fruit and the young -leaves. The Arabs speak of wild dogs in the vicinity -of Unyanyembe, describing them as being about eighteen -inches in height, with rufous-black and shaggy -coats, and long thick tails; they are gregarious, running -in packs of from 20 to 200; they attack indiscriminately -man and the largest animals, and their only cry -is a howl. About the time of our autumn the pools are -visited by various kinds of aquatic birds, widgeon, -plump little teal, fine snipe, curlew, and crane; the -ardea, or white “paddy-bird” of India, and the “lily-trotter” -(Parra Africana), are scattered over the -country; and sometimes, though rarely, the chenalopex -or common Egyptian-goose and the gorgeous-crowned -crane (Balearica pavonina), the latter a favourite dish -with the Arabs, appear. In several parts of Unyamwezi, -especially in the north, there is a large and well-flavoured -species of black-backed goose (Sakidornis -melanota): the common wild duck of England was not -seen. Several specimens of the Buceros, the secretary-bird -(Serpentarius reptilivorus), and large vultures, -probably the condor of the Cape, were observed in Unyamwezi; -the people do not molest them, holding the -flesh to be carrion. The Cuculus indicator, called in -Kisawahili “tongoe,” is common; but, its honey being -mostly hived, it does not attract attention. Grillivori, -and a species of thrush, about the size of common larks, -with sulphur-yellow patches under the eyes, and two -naked black striæ beneath the throat, are here migratory -birds; they do good service to the agriculturist against -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-17">[17]</span> -the locust. A variety of the Loxia or grossbill constructs -nests sometimes in bunches hanging from the -lower branches of the trees. The mtiko, a kind of -water-wagtail (Motacilla), ventures into the huts with -the audacity of a London sparrow, and the Africans -have a prejudice against killing it. Swallows and -martins of various kinds, some peculiarly graceful and -slender, may be seen migrating at the approach of -winter in regular travelling order: of these, one variety -resembles the English bird. The Africans declare that -a single species of hirundo, probably the sand-martin, -builds in the precipitous earth-banks of the nullahs: -their nests were not seen, however, as in Southern -Africa, under the eaves of houses. There are a few -ostriches, hawks, ravens, plovers, nightjars (Caprimulgidæ), -red and blue jays of brilliant plume, muscicapæ, -blackcaps or mock nightingales (Motacilla atrocapilla?), -passerines of various kinds, hoopoes, bulbuls, -wrens, larks, and bats. We saw but few poisonous -animals. Besides the dendrophis, the only ophidia -killed in the country were snakes, with slate-coloured -backs, and silver bellies, resembling the harmless “mas” -or “hanash” of Somaliland, the Psammophis sibilaris -(L.); C. moniliger Lacépède,—according to Mr. -Blyth (“Journal of the As. Soc. of Bengal,” vol. xxiv., -p. 306), who declares it to be not venomous—they -abound in the houses and destroy the rats. The people -speak of a yellow and brown-coated snake, eight feet -long by five or six inches in diameter; it is probably a -boa or rock-snake. Chúrá or frogs are numerous in -the swamps, where the frog-concerts resemble those of -the New World; and in the regions about the Tanganyika -Lake a large variety makes night hideous with -its croakings. Of the ranæ there are many species. -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-18">[18]</span> -The largest is probably the “matmalelo” of S. Africa; -it is eaten by the Wagogo and other tribes. A smaller -kind is of dark colour, and with long legs, which enable -it to hop great distances. A third is of a dirty -yellow, with brownish speckles. There is also a little -green tree-frog, which adheres to the broad and almost -perpendicular leaves of the thicker grasses. The leech is -found in the lakes and rivers of the interior, as well as -in Zanzibar and on both coasts of Africa; according to -the Arabs they are of two kinds, large and small. The -people neither take precautions against them when -drinking at the streams, as the Somal do, nor are they -aware of any officinal use for the animals; moreover, -it is impossible to persuade a Msawahili to collect them: -they are of P’hepo or fiendish nature, and never fail to -haunt and harm their captor. Jongo, or huge millepedes, -some attaining a length of half a foot, with shiny black -bodies and red feet, are found in the fields and forests, -especially during the rains: covered with epizoa, these -animals present a disgusting appearance, and they seem, -to judge from their spoils, to die off during the hot -weather. At certain seasons there is a great variety of -the papilionaceous family in the vicinity of waters -where libellulæ or dragon-flies also abound. The -country is visited at irregular times by flights of locusts, -here called nzige. In spring the plants are covered in -parts with the p’hánzí, a large pink and green variety, -and the destructive species depicted and described by -Salt: they rise from the earth like a glowing rose-coloured -cloud, and die off about the beginning of the -rains. The black leather-like variety, called by the -Arabs “Satan’s ass,” is not uncommon: it is eaten by -the Africans, as are many other edibles upon which -strangers look with disgust. The Arabs describe a fly -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-19">[19]</span> -which infests the forest-patches of Unyamwezi: it is -about the size of a small wasp, and is so fatal that cattle -attacked by it are at once killed and eaten before they -become carrion from its venomous effects. In parts -the country is dotted with ant-hills, which, when old, -become hard as sandstone: they are generally built by -the termite under some shady tree, which prevents too -rapid drying, and apparently the people have not -learned, like their brethren in South Africa, to use them -as ovens.</p> - -<p>From Tura westward to Unyanyembe, the central -district of Unyamwezi, caravans usually number seven -marches, making a total of 60 rectilinear geographical -miles. As far as Kigwa there is but one line of route; -from that point travelling parties diverge far and wide, -like ships making their different courses.</p> - -<p>The races requiring notice in this region are two, the -Wakimbu and the Wanyamwezi.</p> - -<p>The Wakimbu, who are emigrants into Unyamwezi, -claim a noble origin, and derive themselves from the broad -lands running south of Unyanyembe as far westward as -K’hokoro. About twenty masika, wet monsoons, or years -ago, according to themselves, in company with their -neighbours, the Wakonongo and the Wamia, they left -Nguru, Usanga, and Usenga, in consequence of the -repeated attacks of the Warori, and migrated to Kipiri, -the district lying south of Tura; they have now extended -into Mgunda Mk’hali and Unyanyembe, where -they hold the land by permission of the Wanyamwezi. -In these regions there are few obstacles to immigrants. -They visit the Sultan, make a small present, obtain permission -to settle, and name the village after their own -chief; but the original proprietors still maintain their rights -to the soil. The Wakimbu build firmly stockaded villages, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-20">[20]</span> -tend cattle, and cultivate sorghum and maize, millet and -pulse, cucumbers, and water-melons. Apparently they -are poor, being generally clad in skins. They barter -slaves and ivory in small quantities to the merchants, -and some travel to the coast. They are considered -treacherous by their neighbours, and Mapokera, the -Sultan of Tura, is, according to the Arabs, prone to -commit “<i>avanies</i>.” They are known by a number of -small lines formed by raising the skin with a needle, -and opening it by points literally between the hair of -the temples and the eyebrows. In appearance they are -dark and uncomely; their arms are bows and arrows, -spears and knives stuck in the leathern waistbelt; some -wear necklaces of curiously plaited straw, others a -strip of white cowskin bound around the brow—a truly -savage and African decoration. Their language differs -from Kinyamwezi.</p> - -<p>The Wanyamwezi tribe, the proprietors of the soil, is -the typical race in this portion of Central Africa: its -comparative industry and commercial activity have secured -to it a superiority over the other kindred races.</p> - -<p>The aspect of the Wanyamwezi is alone sufficient to -disprove the existence of very elevated lands in this -part of the African interior. They are usually of a -dark sepia-brown, rarely coloured like diluted Indian -ink, as are the Wahiao and slave races to the south, -with negroid features markedly less Semitic than the -people of the eastern coast. The effluvium from their -skins, especially after exercise or excitement, marks -their connection with the negro. The hair curls crisply, -but it grows to the length of four or five inches before -it splits; it is usually twisted into many little ringlets -or hanks; it hangs down like a fringe to the neck, and -is combed off the forehead after the manner of the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-21">[21]</span> -ancient Egyptians and the modern Hottentots. The -beard is thin and short, there are no whiskers, and the -moustachio—when not plucked out—is scant and -straggling. Most of the men and almost all the women -remove the eyelashes, and pilar hair rarely appears to -grow. The normal figure of the race is tall and stout, -and the women are remarkable for the elongation of -the mammary organs. Few have small waists, and the -only lean men in the land are the youths, the sick, and -the famished. This race is said to be long-lived, and it -is not deficient in bodily strength and savage courage. -The clan-mark is a double line of little cuts, like the -marks of cupping, made by a friend with a knife or -razor, along the temporal fossæ from the external edges -of the eyebrows to the middle of the cheeks or to the -lower jaws. Sometimes a third line, or a band of three -small lines, is drawn down the forehead to the bridge of -the nose. The men prefer a black, charcoal being the -substance generally used, the women a blue colour, and -the latter sometimes ornament their faces with little -perpendicular scars below the eyes. They do not file -the teeth into a saw-shape as seen amongst the southern -races, but they generally form an inner triangular or -wedge-shaped aperture by chipping away the internal -corners of the two front incisors like the Damaras, and -the women extract the lower central teeth. Both sexes -enlarge the lobes of the ears. In many parts of the -country skins are more commonly worn than cloth, except -by the Sultans and the wealthier classes. The -women wear the long tobe of the coast, tightly wrapped -round either above or more commonly below the breast; -the poorer classes veil the bosom with a square or -softened skin; the remainder of the dress is a kilt or -short petticoat of the same material extending from -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-22">[22]</span> -waist to knee. Maidens never cover the breast, and -children are rarely clothed; the infant, as usual in East -Africa, is carried in a skin fastened by thongs behind -the parent’s back. The favourite ornaments are beads, -of which the red coral, the pink, and the “pigeon-eggs” -made at Nuremberg are preferred. From the neck -depend strings of beads with kiwangwa, disks of shell -brought from the coast, and crescents of hippopotamus -teeth country made, and when the beard is long it is -strung with red and particoloured beads. Brass and -copper bangles or massive rings are worn upon the -wrists, the forearm bears the ponderous kitindi or coil -bracelet, and the arm above the elbow is sometimes decorated -with circlets of ivory or with a razor in an ivory -étui; the middle is girt with a coil of wire twisted -round a rope of hair or fibre, and the ankles are covered -with small iron bells and the rings of thin brass, copper, -or iron wire, called sambo. When travelling, a goat’s -horn, used as a bugle, is secured over the right shoulder -by a lanyard and allowed to hang by the left side: in -the house many wear a smaller article of the same kind, -hollowed inside and containing various articles intended -as charms, and consecrated by the Mganga or medicine-man. -The arms are slender assegais with the shoulders -of the blade rounded off: they are delivered, as by the -Somal, with the thumb and forefinger after a preliminary -of vibratory motion, but the people want the force -and the dexterity of the Kafirs. Some have large -spears for thrusting, and men rarely leave the hut -without their bows and arrows, the latter unpoisoned, -but curiously and cruelly barbed. They make also the -long double-edged knives called sime, and different -complications of rungu or knob-kerries, some of them -armed with an iron lance-head upon the wooden bulge. -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-23">[23]</span> -Dwarf battle-axes are also seen, but not so frequently -as amongst the western races on the Tanganyika Lake. -The shield in Unyamwezi resembles that of Usagara; -it is however rarely used.</p> - -<p>There are but few ceremonies amongst the Wanyamwezi. -A woman about to become a mother retires -from the hut to the jungle, and after a few hours -returns with a child wrapped in goatskin upon her -back, and probably carrying a load of firewood on her -head. The medical treatment of the Arabs with salt -and various astringents for forty days is here unknown. -Twins are not common as amongst the Kafir race, and -one of the two is invariably put to death; the universal -custom amongst these tribes is for the mother to wrap -a gourd or calabash in skins, to place it to sleep with, -and to feed it like, the survivor. If the wife die without -issue, the widower claims from her parents the sum -paid to them upon marriage; if she leave a child, the -property is preserved for it. When the father can -afford it, a birth is celebrated by copious libations of -pombe. Children are suckled till the end of the second -year. Their only education is in the use of the bow and -arrow; after the fourth summer the boy begins to learn -archery with diminutive weapons, which are gradually -increased in strength. Names are given without ceremony; -and as in the countries to the eastward, many -of the heathens have been called after their Arab -visitors. Circumcision is not practised by this people. -The children in Unyamwezi generally are the property -not of the uncle but of the father, who can sell or slay -them without blame; in Usukuma or the northern -lands, however, succession and inheritance are claimed -by the nephews or sisters’ sons. The Wanyamwezi -have adopted the curious practice of leaving property -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-24">[24]</span> -to their illegitimate children by slave girls or concubines, -to the exclusion of their issue by wives; they -justify it by the fact of the former requiring their -assistance more than the latter, who have friends and -relatives to aid them. As soon as the boy can walk -he tends the flocks; after the age of ten he drives the -cattle to pasture, and, considering himself independent -of his father, he plants a tobacco-plot and aspires to -build a hut for himself. There is not a boy “which -cannot earn his own meat.”</p> - -<p>Another peculiarity of the Wanyamwezi is the position -of the Wahárá or unmarried girls. Until puberty -they live in the father’s house; after that period the -spinsters of the village, who usually number from seven -to a dozen, assemble together and build for themselves -at a distance from their homes a hut where they can -receive their friends without parental interference. -There is but one limit to community in single life: if -the Mhárá or “maiden” be likely to become a mother, -her “young man” must marry her under pain of -mulct; and if she die in childbirth, her father demands -from her lover a large fine for having taken away his -daughter’s life. Marriage takes place when the youth -can afford to pay the price for a wife: it varies according -to circumstances from one to ten cows. The wife -is so far the property of the husband that he can claim -damages from the adulterer; he may not, however, sell -her, except when in difficulties. The marriage is celebrated -with the usual carouse, and the bridegroom -takes up his quarters in his wife’s home, not under her -father’s roof. Polygamy is the rule with the wealthy. -There is little community of interests and apparently a -lack of family affection in these tribes. The husband, -when returning from the coast laden with cloth, will -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-25">[25]</span> -refuse a single shukkah to his wife, and the wife succeeding -to an inheritance will abandon her husband to -starvation. The man takes charge of the cattle, goats, -sheep, and poultry; the woman has power over the -grain and the vegetables; and each must grow tobacco, -having little hope of borrowing from the other. Widows -left with houses, cattle, and fields, usually spend their -substance in supporting lovers, who are expected occasionally -to make presents in return. Hence no coast -slave in Wanyamwezi is ever known to keep a shukkah -of cloth.</p> - -<p>The usual way of disposing of a corpse in former times -was, to carry it out on the head and to throw it into -some jungle strip where the fisi or cynhyæna abounds,—a -custom which accounts for the absence of graveyards. -The Wanyamwezi at first objected to the Arabs publicly -burying their dead in their fields, for fear of pollution; -they would assemble in crowds to close the -way against a funeral party. The merchants, however, -persevered till they succeeded in establishing a right. -When a Mnyamwezi dies in a strange country, and his -comrades take the trouble to inter him, they turn the -face of the corpse towards the mother’s village, a proceeding -which shows more sentiment than might be -expected from them. The body is buried standing, or -tightly bound in a heap, or placed in a sitting position -with the arms clasping the knees: if the deceased be a -great man, a sheep and a bullock are slaughtered for a -funeral feast, the skin is placed over his face, and the -hide is bound to his back. When a sultan dies in a -foreign land his body is buried upon the spot, and his -head, or what remains of it, is carried back for sepulture -to his own country. The chiefs of Unyamwezi -generally are interred by a large assemblage of their -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-26">[26]</span> -subjects with cruel rites. A deep pit is sunk, with a -kind of vault or recess projecting from it: in this the -corpse, clothed with skin and hide, and holding a bow -in the right hand, is placed sitting, with a pot of pombe, -upon a dwarf stool, whilst sometimes one, but more -generally three female slaves, one on each side and the -third in front, are buried alive to preserve their lord -from the horrors of solitude. A copious libation of -pombe upon the heaped-up earth concludes the ceremony. -According to the Arabs, the Wasukuma inter -all their sultans in a jungle north of Unyanyembe, and -the neighbouring peasants deposit before seed-time small -offerings of grain at the Mzimo or Fetiss-house which -marks the spot.</p> - -<p>The habitations of the eastern Wanyamwezi are the -Tembe, which in the west give way to the circular -African hut; among the poorer sub-tribes the dwelling -is a mere stack of straw. The best Tembe have large -projecting eaves supported by uprights: cleanliness, -however, can never be expected in them. Having no -limestone, the people ornament the inner and outer -walls with long lines of ovals formed by pressing the -finger tips, after dipping them into ashes and water for -whitewash, and into red clay or black mud for variety -of colour. With this primitive material they sometimes -attempt rude imitations of nature—human beings and -serpents. In some parts the cross appears, but the -people apparently ignore it as a symbol. Rude carving -is also attempted upon the massive posts at the entrances -of villages, but the figures, though to appearance -idolatrous, are never worshipped. The household -furniture of the Tembe differs little from that described -in the villages generally. The large sloping Kitanda, -or bedstead of peeled tree-branch, supported by forked -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-27">[27]</span> -sticks, and provided with a bedding of mat and cowhide, -occupies the greater part of the outer room. The -triangle of clay cones forming the hearth are generally -placed for light near the wall-side opposite the front door; -and the rest of the supellex consists of large stationary -bark cornbins, of gourds and bandboxes slung from the -roof, earthen-pots of black clay, huge ladles, pipes, -grass-mats, grinding-stones, and arms hung to a -trimmed and branchy tree trunk planted upright in -a corner. The rooms are divided by party walls, -which, except when separating families, seldom reach -to the ceiling. The fireplace acts as lamp by night, -and the door is the only chimney.</p> - -<p>The characteristic of the Mnyamwezi village is the -“İwánzá”—a convenience resulting probably from the -instinct of the sexes, who prefer not to mingle, and for -the greater freedom of life and manners. Of these -buildings there are two in every settlement, generally -built at opposite sides, fronting the normal Mrimba-tree, -which sheds its filmy shade over the public court-yard. -That of the women, being a species of harem, was not -visited; as travellers and strangers are always admitted -into the male İwánzá, it is more readily described. This -public-house is a large hut, somewhat more substantial -than those adjoining, often smeared with smooth clay, -and decorated here and there with broad columns of the -ovals before described, and the prints of palms dipped -in ashes and placed flat like the hands in ancient Egyptian -buildings. The roof is generally a flying thatch -raised a foot above the walls—an excellent plan for -ventilation in these regions. Outside, the İwánzá is -defended against the incursions of cattle by roughly-barked -trunks of trees resting upon stout uprights: in -this space men sit, converse, and smoke. The two -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-28">[28]</span> -doorways are protected by rude charms suspended from -the lintel, hares’ tails, zebras’ manes, goats’ horns, and -other articles of prophylactic virtue. Inside, half the -depth is appropriated to the Ubiri, a huge standing -bedframe, formed, like the plank-benches of a civilised -guard-room, by sleepers lying upon horizontal cross-bars: -these are supported by forked trunks about two -feet long planted firmly in the ground. The floor is of -tamped earth. The furniture of the İwánzá consists -of a hearth and grinding-stone; spears, sticks, arrows, -and shillelaghs are stuck to smoke in the dingy rafter -ceiling, or are laid upon hooks of crooked wood depending -from the sooty cross-beams: the corners are -occupied by bellows, elephant-spears, and similar articles. -In this “public” the villagers spend their days, -and often, even though married, their nights, gambling, -eating, drinking pombe, smoking bhang and tobacco, -chatting, and sleeping like a litter of puppies destitute -of clothing, and using one another’s backs, breasts, and -stomachs as pillows. The İwánzá appears almost peculiar -to Unyamwezi.</p> - -<p>In Unyamwezi the sexes do not eat together: even -the boys would disdain to be seen sitting at meat with -their mothers. The men feed either in their cottages -or more generally in the İwánzá: they make, when they -can, two meals during the day—in the morning, a -breakfast, which is often omitted for economy, and a -dinner about 3 <span class="smcapall">P.M.</span> During the interim they chew tobacco, -and, that failing, indulge in a quid of clay. It probably -contains some animal matter, but the chief reason -for using it is apparently the necessity to barbarians of -whiling away the time when not sleeping by exercising -their jaws. They prefer the “sweet earth,” that is to -say, the clay of ant-hills: the Arabs have tried it without -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-29">[29]</span> -other effects but nausea. The custom, however, -is not uncommon upon both coasts of Africa: it takes, -in fact, the place of the mastic of Chios, the kat of -Yemen, the betel and toasted grains of India and the -farther East, and the ashes of the Somali country. The -Wanyamwezi, and indeed the East-African tribes generally, -have some curious food prejudices. Before their -closer intercourse with the Arabs they used to keep -poultry, but, like the Gallas and the Somal, who look -upon the fowl as a kind of vulture, they would not eat -it: even in the present day they avoid eggs. Some -will devour animals that have died of disease, and -carrion,—the flesh of lions and leopards, elephants and -rhinoceroses, asses, wild cats and rats, beetles and white -ants;—others refuse to touch mutton or clean water-fowl, -declaring that it is not their custom. The prejudice -has not, however, been reduced to a system, as -amongst the tribes of southern Africa. They rarely -taste meat except upon the march, where the prospect -of gain excites them to an unusual indulgence: when -a bullock is killed, they either jerk the meat, or dry it -upon a dwarf platform of sticks raised above a slow -and smoky fire, after which it will keep for some days. -The usual food is the ugali or porridge of boiled flour: -they find, however, a variety of edible herbs in the -jungle, and during the season they luxuriate upon -honey and sour milk. No Mnyamwezi, however, will -own to repletion unless he has “sat upon pombe,”—in -other words, has drunk to intoxication; and the -chiefs pride themselves upon living entirely upon beef -and stimulants.</p> - -<p>The Wanyamwezi have won for themselves a reputation -by their commercial industry. Encouraged by -the merchants, they are the only professional porters of -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-30">[30]</span> -East Africa; and even amongst them, the Wakalaganza, -Wasumbwa, and Wasukuma are the only tribes who -regularly visit the coast in this capacity. They are now -no longer “honest and civil to strangers”—semi-civilisation -has hitherto tended to degradation. They seem -to have learned but little by their intercourse with the -Arabs. Commerce with them is still in its infancy. -They have no idea of credit, although in Karagwah -and the northern kingdoms payment may be delayed -for a period of two years. They cannot, like some of -their neighbours, bargain: a man names the article -which he requires, and if it be not forthcoming he will -take no other. The porters, who linger upon the coast -or in the island of Zanzibar, either cut grass for asses, -carry stones and mortar to the town, for which they -receive a daily hire of from two to eight pice, or they -obtain from the larger landholders permission to reclaim -and cultivate a plot of ground for vegetables and -manioc. They have little of the literature, songs and -tales, common amongst barbarians; and though they -occasionally indulge in speeches, they do not, like many -kindred tribes, cultivate eloquence. On the march they -beguile themselves with chanting for hours together -half a dozen words eternally repeated. Their language -is copious but confused, and they are immoderately fond -of simple and meaningless syllables used as interjections. -Their industry is confined to weaving coarse -cloths of unbleached cotton, neatly-woven baskets, -wooden milk-bowls, saddle-bags for their asses, and -arms. They rear asses and load them lightly when -travelling to the coast, but they have not yet learned to -ride them. Though they carefully fence and ditch -their fields, they have never invented a plough, confining -themselves to ridging the land with the laborious -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-31">[31]</span> -hoe. They rarely sell one another, nor do they much -encourage the desertion of slaves. The wild bondsman, -when running away, is sometimes appropriated by his -captor, but a Muwallid or domestic slave is always restored -after a month or two. The Arabs prefer to -purchase men sold under suspicion of magic; they -rarely flee, fearing lest their countrymen should put -them to death.</p> - -<p>As has been said, the government of Unyamwezi is -conducted by a multitude of petty chiefs. The ruling -classes are thus called: Mtemi or Mwáme is the chief -or sultan, Mgáwe (in the plural Wágáwe) the principal -councillor, and Mánácháro, or Mnyapara (plural Wányápárá) -the elder. The ryots or subjects on the other -hand are collectively styled Wasengi. The most -powerful chiefs are Fundikira of Unyanyembe, Masanga -of Msene, and Kafrira of Kiríra. The dignity of Mtemi -is hereditary. He has power of life and death over his -subjects, and he seldom condescends to any but mortal -punishment. His revenue is composed of additions to -his private property by presents from travellers, confiscation -of effects in cases of felony or magic, by the sale -of subjects, and by treasure trove. Even if a man kill -his own slave, the slave’s effects lapse to the ruler. -The villagers must give up all ivory found in the -jungles, although the hunters are allowed to retain the -tusks of the slaughtered animals.</p> - -<p>A few brief remarks concerning Fundikira, the chief -of Unyamwezi in 1858, may serve to illustrate the condition -of the ruling class in Unyamwezi. This chief -was travelling towards the coast as a porter in a caravan, -when he heard of his father’s death: he at once stacked -his load and prepared to return home and rule. The -rest of the gang, before allowing him to depart, taunted -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-32">[32]</span> -him severely, exclaiming, partly in jest, partly in -earnest, “Ah! now thou art still our comrade, but -presently thou wilt torture and slay, fine and flog us.” -Fundikira proceeding to his native country inherited, -as is the custom, all his father’s property and widows; -he fixed himself at Ititenya, presently numbered -ten wives, who have borne him only three children, -built 300 houses for his slaves and dependants, and -owned 2000 head of cattle. He lived in some state, -declining to call upon strangers, and, though not demanding -still obtaining large presents. Becoming -obese by age and good living, he fell ill in the autumn -of 1858, and, as usual, his relations were suspected of -compassing his end by Uchawi, or black magic. In -these regions the death of one man causes many. The -Mganga was summoned to apply the usual ordeal. -After administering a mystic drug, he broke the neck of -a fowl, and splitting it into two lengths inspected the -interior. If blackness or blemish appear about the -wings, it denotes the treachery of children, relations and -kinsmen; the backbone convicts the mother and grandmother; -the tail shows that the criminal is the wife, -the thighs the concubines, and the injured shanks or -feet the other slaves. Having fixed upon the class of -the criminals, they are collected together by the -Mganga, who, after similarly dosing a second hen, -throws her up into the air above the heads of the crowd -and singles out the person upon whom she alights. -Confession is extorted by tying the thumb backwards -till it touches the wrist or by some equally barbarous -mode of question. The consequence of condemnation -is certain and immediate death; the mode is chosen by -the Mganga. Some are speared, others are beheaded or -“ammazati,”—clubbed:—a common way is to bind the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-33">[33]</span> -cranium between two stiff pieces of wood which are -gradually tightened by cords till the brain bursts out -from the sutures. For women they practise a peculiarly -horrible kind of impalement. These atrocities -continue until the chief recovers or dies: at the commencement -of his attack, in one household eighteen -souls, male and female, had been destroyed; should -his illness be protracted, scores will precede him to -the grave, for the Mchawi or magician must surely -die.</p> - -<p>The Wanyamwezi will generally sell their criminals -and captives; when want drives, they part with their -wives, their children, and even their parents. For -economy, they import their serviles from Ujiji and the -adjoining regions; from the people lying towards the -south-east angle of the Tanganyika Lake, as the -Wafipa, the Wapoka, and the Wagara; and from the -Nyanza races, and the northern kingdoms of Karagwah, -Uganda, and Unyoro.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-34">[34]</span></p> - -<div class="container w40em" id="Illoii-8"> -<img src="images/ii_illo046.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">My Tembe near the Tanganyika.</p> -</div> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapno">CHAP. XIII.</span><br /> -<span class="chapname">AT LENGTH WE SIGHT THE LAKE TANGANYIKA, THE “SEA OF -UJIJI.”</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p class="noindent">The route before us lay through a howling wilderness, -once populous and fertile, but now laid waste by the -fierce Watuta. Snay bin Amir had warned me that -it would be our greatest trial of patience. The march -began badly: Mpete, the district on the right bank of -the Malagarazi River, is highly malarious, and the -mosquitoes feasted right royally upon our life, even -during the day-time. We bivouacked under a shady -tree, within sight of the ferry, not knowing that upon -the woody eminences above the valley there are usually -fine kraals of dry grass and of mkora or myombo-bark. -During the rainy monsoon the best encampments in -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-35">[35]</span> -these regions are made of tree-sheets: two parallel -rings are cut in the bole, at a distance of six to seven -feet; a perpendicular slit then connects them, the bark -is easily stripped off, and the trunk, after having been -left for a time to season, is filled for use.</p> - -<p>On the 5th of February we set out betimes, across a -route traversing for a short distance swampy ground -along the river-side. It then stretched over jungly -and wooded hill-spires, with steep rough ascents and -descents, divided from neighbouring elevations by slippery -mire-runs. Exposed to the full break of the rainy -monsoon, and the frequent outbursts of fiery sun, I -could not but admire the marvellous fertility of the -soil; an impervious luxuriance of vegetation veils the -lowlands, clothes the hill-sides, and caps their rounded -summits. After marching five hours and twenty -minutes, we found a large kraal in the district of -Kinawani: the encamping ground,—partially cleared -of the thick, fetid, and putrescent vegetation around,—hugs -the right bank of the Malagarazi, and faces -the village of Sultan Mzogera on the southern or -opposite side. A small store of provisions—grain -and sweet-potatoes—was purchased from the villagers -of Kinawani, who flocked across the stream -to trade. They were, however, fanciful in their -requirements: beads, especially the coral porcelain, -iron-wire, salt, and meat. The heaviness of this march -caused two of the Hammals engaged at Usagozi to -levant, and the remaining four to strike work. It was -therefore again necessary to mount ass—ten days after -an attack of “paraplegia!”</p> - -<p>We left Kinawani on the next morning, and striking -away from the river we crossed rugged and rolling -ground, divided by deep swamps of mire and grass. -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-36">[36]</span> -To the southward ran the stream, rushing violently -down a rocky bed, with tall trees lining its banks. -Sailing before the morning east-wind, a huge mass of -nimbus occupied the sky, and presently discharged -itself in an unusually heavy downfall: during the -afternoon the breeze veered as usual to the west, and -the hot sunshine was for once enjoyable. After a -weary trudge of five hours and twenty minutes, we -entered a large and comfortable kraal, situated near a -reach where the swift and turbid river foamed over a -discontinuous ledge of rock, between avenues of dense -and tangled jungle. No provisions were procurable at -this place; man appeared to have become extinct.</p> - -<p>The 7th of February led us over broken ground, -encumbered by forest, and cut by swamps, with higher -levels on the right hand, till we again fell into the -marshes and fields of the river-valley. The district on -the other side of the river, called Jambeho, is one of -the most flourishing in Uvinza; its villages of small -bird-nest huts, and its carefully hoed fields of grain and -sweet-potato, affected the eye, after the dreary monotony -of a jungle-march, like the glimmer of a light at the -end of a night-march, or the discovery of land at the -conclusion of a long sea-voyage. The village ferry was -instantly put into requisition, and the chief, Ruwere, -after receiving as his “dash” eight cloths, allowed us to -purchase provisions. At that season, however, the -harvest of grain and sweet-potatoes had not been got -in, and for their single old hen the people demanded an -exorbitant price. We hastened, despite all difficulties, -to escape from this place of pestilence, which clouds -of mosquitoes rendered as uncomfortable as it was -dangerous.</p> - -<p>The next day ushered in our departure with drizzling -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-37">[37]</span> -rain, which drenched the slippery paths of red clay; the -asses, wild with wind and weather, exposed us to accidents -in a country of deep ravines and rugged boulders. -Presently diverging from the Malagarazi, we passed over -the brow of a low tree-clad hill above the junction of -the Rusugi River, and followed the left bank of this -tributary as far as its nearer ford. The Rusugi which -drains the northern highlands into the Malagarazi, was -then about 100 yards in width: the bottom is a red -ochreish soil, the strong stream, divided in the centre by -a long low strip of sand and gravel, flowed at that time -breast-deep, and its banks,—as usual with rivers in these -lands,—deeply cut by narrow watercourses, rendered -travelling unusually toilsome. At the Rusugi Ford the -road separates into a northern and a southern branch, -a hill-spur forming the line of demarcation. The -northern strikes off to the district of Parugerero on the -left bank, where a shallower ford is found: the place in -question is a settlement of Wavinza, containing from -forty to fifty bee-hive huts, tenanted by salt-diggers. -The principal pan is sunk in the vicinity of the river, -the saline produce, after being boiled down in the huts, -is piled up, and handmade into little cones. The pan -affords tripartite revenue to three sultans, and it constitutes -the principal wealth of the Wavinza: the salt -here sold for one shukkah per masuta, or half-load, and -far superior to the bitter, nitrous produce of Ugogo, -finds its way throughout the heart of Africa, supplying -the lands adjoining both the Tanganyika and the -Nyanza Lakes.</p> - -<p>We followed the southern line which crosses the -Rusugi River at the branch islet. Fords are always -picturesque. The men seemed to enjoy the washing; -their numbers protected them from the crocodiles, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-38">[38]</span> -which fled from their shouting and splashing; and -they even ventured into deep water, where swimming -was necessary. We crossed as usual on a “unicorn” of -negroids, the upper part of the body supported by two -men, and the feet resting upon the shoulders of a third,—a -posture somewhat similar to that affected by -gentlemen who find themselves unable to pull off their -own boots. Then remounting, we ascended the grassy -rise on the right of the stream, struggled, slipped, and -slided over a muddy swamp, climbed up a rocky and -bushy ridge, and found ourselves ensconced in a ragged -and comfortless kraal upon the western slopes, within -sight of some deserted salt-pans below. As evening drew -in, it became apparent that the Goanese Gaetano, the five -Wak’hutu porters, and Sarmalla, a donkey-driving son -of Ramji, had remained behind, in company with -several loads, the tent, two bags of clothes, my companion’s -elephant-gun, my bedding, and that of my -servant. It was certain that with this provision in the -vicinity of Parugerero they would not starve, and the -porters positively refused to halt an hour more than -necessary. I found it therefore compulsory to advance. -On the 11th February three “children” of Said bin -Salim consented, as usual, for a consideration, to return -and to bring up the laggers, and about a week afterwards -they entered Ujiji without accident. The five -Wak’hutu porters, probably from the persuasions of -Muinyi Wazira, had, although sworn to fidelity with the -strongest oaths, carried into execution a long-organised -plan of desertion. Gaetano refused to march on the -day of our separation, because he was feverish, and he -expected a riding-ass to be sent back for him. He -brought up our goods safely, but blankets, towels, and -many articles of clothing belonging to his companion, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-39">[39]</span> -had disappeared. This difficulty was, of course, attributed -to the Wak’hutu porters; probably the missing -things had been sold for food by the Goanese and -the son of Ramji: I could not therefore complain of -the excuse.</p> - -<p>From the Msawahili Fundi,—fattore, manciple or steward—of -a small caravan belonging to an Arab merchant, -Hamid bin Sulayyam, I purchased for thirty-five cloths, -about thrice its value, a little single-fold tent of thin -American domestics, through which sun and rain penetrated -with equal facility. Like the cloth-houses of the -Arab travellers generally, it was gable-shaped, six or -seven feet high, about eight feet long by four broad, -and so light that with its bamboo-poles and its pegs it -scarcely formed a load for a man. On the 9th February, -we descended from the ridge upon which the kraal was -placed, and traversed a deep swamp of black mud, dotted -in the more elevated parts with old salt-pans and pits, -where broken pottery and blackened lumps of clay still -showed traces of human handiwork. Beyond this low-land, -the track, striking off from the river-valley and -turning to the right, entered toilsome ground. We -crossed deep and rocky ravines, with luxuriant vegetation -above, and with rivulets at the bottom trickling -towards the Malagarazi, by scrambling down and swarming -up the roughest steps of rock, boulder, and knotted -tree-root. Beyond these difficulties lay woody and -stony hills, whose steep and slippery inclines were -divided by half a dozen waters, all more or less troublesome -to cross. The porters, who were in a place of -famine, insisted upon pushing on to the utmost of their -strength: after six hours’ march, I persuaded them to -halt in the bush upon a rocky hill, where the neighbouring -descent supplied water. The Fundi visited -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-40">[40]</span> -the valley of the Rusugi River, and finding a herd of -the Mbogo or Bos Caffer, brought home a welcome addition -to our well-nigh exhausted rations.</p> - -<p>The 10th February saw us crossing the normal -sequence of jungly and stony “neat’s-tongues,” divided -by deep and grassy swamps, which, stagnant in the dry -weather, drain after rains the northern country to the -Malagarazi River. We passed over by a felled tree-trunk -an unfordable rivulet, hemmed in by a dense and -fetid thicket; and the asses summarily pitched down -the muddy bank into the water, swam across and -wriggled up the slimy off-side like cats. Thence a foul -swamp of black mire led to the Ruguvu or Luguvu -River, the western boundary of Uvinza and the eastern -frontier of Ukaranga. This stream, which can be -forded during the dry season, had spread out after the -rains over its borders of grassy plain; we were delayed -till the next morning in a miserable camping -ground, a mud-bank thinly veiled with vegetation, in -order to bridge it with branching trees. An unusual -downfall during the night might have caused serious -consequences;—provisions had now disappeared, moreover -the porters considered the place dangerous.</p> - -<p>The 10th February began with the passage of the -Ruguvu River, where again our goods and chattels were -fated to be thoroughly sopped. I obtained a few corn-cobs -from a passing caravan of Wanyamwezi, and charged -them with meat and messages for the party left behind. -A desert march, similar to the stage last travelled, led us -to the Unguwwe or Uvungwe River, a shallow, muddy -stream, girt in as usual by dense vegetation; and we -found a fine large kraal on its left bank. After a cold -and rainy night, we resumed our march by fording the -Unguwwe. Then came the weary toil of fighting through -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-41">[41]</span> -tiger and spear-grass, with reeds, rushes, a variety of -ferns, before unseen, and other lush and lusty growths, -clothing a succession of rolling hills, monotonous swellings, -where the descent was ever a reflection of the -ascent. The paths were broken, slippery, and pitted -with deep holes; along their sides, where the ground -lay exposed to view, a conglomerate of ferruginous red -clay—suggesting a resemblance to the superficies of -Londa, as described by Dr. Livingstone—took the place -of the granites and sandstones of the eastern countries, -and the sinking of the land towards the Lake became -palpable. In the jungle were extensive clumps of -bamboo and rattan; the former small, the latter of poor -quality; the bauhinia, or black-wood, and the salsaparilla -vine abounded; wild grapes of diminutive size, -and of the austerest flavour, appeared for the first time -upon the sunny hill-sides which Bacchus ever loves, -and in the lower swamps plantains grew almost wild. -In parts the surface was broken into small deep hollows, -from which sprang pyramidal masses of the hugest -trees. Though no sign of man here met the eye, -scattered fields and plantations showed that villages -must be somewhere near. Sweet water was found in -narrow courses of black mud, which sorely tried the -sinews of laden man and beast. Long after noon, we -saw the caravan halted by fatigue upon a slope beyond -a weary swamp: a violent storm was brewing, and -whilst half the sky was purple black with nimbus, the -sun shone stingingly through the clear portion of the -empyrean. But these small troubles were lightly -borne; already in the far distance appeared walls of -sky-blue cliff with gilded summits, which were as a -beacon to the distressed mariner.</p> - -<p>On the 13th February we resumed our travel through -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-42">[42]</span> -screens of lofty grass, which thinned out into a straggling -forest. After about an hour’s march, as we -entered a small savannah, I saw the Fundi before alluded -to running forward and changing the direction -of the caravan. Without supposing that he had taken -upon himself this responsibility, I followed him. Presently -he breasted a steep and stony hill, sparsely clad -with thorny trees: it was the death of my companion’s -riding-ass. Arrived with toil,—for our fagged beasts -now refused to proceed,—we halted for a few minutes -upon the summit. “What is that streak of light -which lies below?” I inquired of Seedy Bombay. “I -am of opinion,” quoth Bombay, “that that is <i>the</i> water.” -I gazed in dismay; the remains of my blindness, the -veil of trees, and a broad ray of sunshine illuminating -but one reach of the Lake, had shrunk its fair proportions. -Somewhat prematurely I began to lament -my folly in having risked life and lost health for so -poor a prize, to curse Arab exaggeration, and to propose -an immediate return, with the view of exploring the -Nyanza, or Northern Lake. Advancing, however, a few -yards, the whole scene suddenly burst upon my view, -filling me with admiration, wonder, and delight. It -gave local habitation to the poet’s <span class="nowrap">fancy:—</span></p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - -<div class="stanza"> -<span class="verse indent00">“Tremolavano i rai del Sol nascente<br /></span> -<span class="verse indent2">Sovra l’onde del mar purpuree e d’oro,<br /></span> -<span class="verse indent0">E in veste di zaffiro il ciel ridente<br /></span> -<span class="verse indent2">Specchiar parea le sue bellezze in loro.<br /></span> -<span class="verse indent0">D’Africa i venti fieri e d’Oriente,<br /></span> -<span class="verse indent2">Sovra il letto del mar, prendean ristoro,<br /></span> -<span class="verse indent0">E co’ sospiri suoi soavi e lieti<br /></span> -<span class="verse indent2">Col Zeffiro increspava il lembo a Teti.”<br /></span> -</div><!--stanza--> - -</div><!--poetry--> -</div><!--poetry-container--> - -<p>Nothing, in sooth, could be more picturesque than this -first view of the Tanganyika Lake, as it lay in the lap -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-43">[43]</span> -of the mountains, basking in the gorgeous tropical sunshine. -Below and beyond a short foreground of rugged -and precipitous hill-fold, down which the foot-path -zigzags painfully, a narrow strip of emerald green, never -sere and marvellously fertile, shelves towards a ribbon -of glistening yellow sand, here bordered by sedgy rushes, -there cleanly and clearly cut by the breaking wavelets. -Further in front stretch the waters, an expanse of the -lightest and softest blue, in breadth varying from thirty -to thirty-five miles, and sprinkled by the crisp east-wind -with tiny crescents of snowy foam. The background -in front is a high and broken wall of steel-coloured -mountain, here flecked and capped with pearly -mist, there standing sharply pencilled against the azure -air; its yawning chasms, marked by a deeper plum-colour, -fall towards dwarf hills of mound-like proportions, -which apparently dip their feet in the wave. -To the south, and opposite the long low point, behind -which the Malagarazi River discharges the red loam -suspended in its violent stream, lie the bluff headlands -and capes of Uguhha, and, as the eye dilates, it falls -upon a cluster of outlying islets, speckling a sea-horizon. -Villages, cultivated lands, the frequent canoes of the -fishermen on the waters, and on a nearer approach the -murmurs of the waves breaking upon the shore, give a -something of variety, of movement, of life to the landscape, -which, like all the fairest prospects in these regions, -wants but a little of the neatness and finish of Art,—mosques -and kiosks, palaces and villas, gardens and -orchards—contrasting with the profuse lavishness -and magnificence of nature, and diversifying the unbroken -<i>coup d’œil</i> of excessive vegetation, to rival, if not -to excel, the most admired scenery of the classic -regions. The riant shores of this vast crevasse appeared -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-44">[44]</span> -doubly beautiful to me after the silent and -spectral mangrove-creeks on the East-African seaboard, -and the melancholy, monotonous experience of -desert and jungle scenery, tawny rock and sun-parched -plain or rank herbage and flats of black mire. Truly it -was a revel for soul and sight! Forgetting toils, -dangers, and the doubtfulness of return, I felt willing -to endure double what I had endured; and all the -party seemed to join with me in joy. My purblind -companion found nothing to grumble at except the -“mist and glare before his eyes.” Said bin Salim -looked exulting,—<i>he</i> had procured for me this pleasure,—the -monoculous Jemadar grinned his congratulations, -and even the surly Baloch made civil salams.</p> - -<p>Arrived at Ukaranga I was disappointed to find there -a few miserable grass-huts—used as a temporary shelter -by caravans passing to and from the islets fringing the -opposite coast—that clustered round a single Tembe, then -occupied by its proprietor, Hamid bin Sulayyam, an Arab -trader. Presently the motive of the rascally Fundi, in -misleading the caravan, which, by the advice of Snay -bin Amir, I had directed to march upon the Kawele -district in Ujiji, leaked out. The roadstead of Ukaranga -is separated from part of Kawele by the line of the Ruche -River, which empties itself into a deep hollow bay, -whose chord, extending from N.W. to S.E., is five or -six miles in length. The strip of shelving plain between -the trough-like hills and the lake is raised but a few feet -above water-level. Converted by the passage of a -hundred drains from the highlands, into a sheet of -sloppy and slippery mire, breast deep in select places, it -supports with difficulty a few hundred inhabitants: -drenched with violent rain-storms and clammy dews, it -is rife in fevers, and it is feared by travellers on account -of its hippopotami and crocodiles. In the driest -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-45">[45]</span> -season the land-road is barely practicable; during and -after the wet monsoon the lake affords the only means -of passage, and the port of Ukaranga contains not a -single native canoe. The Fundi, therefore, wisely determined -that I should spend beads for rations and -lodgings amongst his companions, and be heavily -mulcted for a boat by them. Moreover, he instantly -sent word to Mnya Mtaza, the principal headman of -Ukaranga, who, as usual with the Lakist chiefs, lives in -the hills at some distance from the water, to come -instanter for his Honga or blackmail, as, no fresh fish -being procurable, the Wazungu were about to depart. -The latter manœuvre, however, was frustrated by my -securing a conveyance for the morrow. It was an open -solid-built Arab craft, capable of containing thirty to -thirty-five men; it belonged to an absent merchant, Said -bin Usman; it was in point of size the second on the -Tanganyika, and being too large for paddling, its crew -rowed instead of scooping up the water like the natives. -The slaves, who had named four khete of coral beads as -the price of a bit of sun-dried “baccalà,” and five as -the hire of a foul hovel for one night, demanded four -cloths—at least the price of the boat—for conveying the -party to Kawele, a three hours’ trip. I gave them -ten cloths and two coil-bracelets, or somewhat more -than the market value of the whole equipage,—a -fact which I effectually used as an <i>argumentum ad -verecundiam</i>.</p> - -<p>At eight <span class="smcapall">A.M.</span>, on the 14th February, we began coasting -along the eastern shore of the lake in a north-westerly -direction, towards the Kawele district, in the land of -Ujiji. The view was exceedingly beautiful:</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - -<div class="stanza"> -<span class="verse indent2">“<span class="padl1 padr1">.</span><span class="padl1 padr1">.</span><span class="padl1 padr1">.</span> -the flat sea shone like yellow gold<br /></span> -<span class="verse indent0">Fused in the sun,”<br /></span> -</div><!--stanza--> - -</div><!--poetry--> -</div><!--poetry-container--> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-46">[46]</span></p> - -<p class="noindent">and the picturesque and varied forms of the mountains, -rising above and dipping into the lake, were clad in -purplish blue, set off by the rosy tints of morning. -Yet, more and more, as we approached our destination, -I wondered at the absence of all those features which -prelude a popular settlement. Passing the low, muddy, -and grass-grown mouth of the Ruche River, I could -descry on the banks nothing but a few scattered hovels -of miserable construction, surrounded by fields of sorghum -and sugar-cane, and shaded by dense groves of -the dwarf, bright-green plantain, and the tall, sombre -elæis or Guinea-palm. By the Arabs I had been -taught to expect a town, a ghaut, a port, and a bazar, -excelling in size that of Zanzibar, and I had old, preconceived -ideas concerning “die Stadt Ujiji,” whose -sire was the “Mombas Mission Map.” Presently Mammoth -and Behemoth shrank timidly from exposure, and -a few hollowed logs, the monoxyles of the fishermen, -the wood-cutters, and the market-people, either cut the -water singly, or stood in crowds drawn up on the -patches of yellow sand. About 11 <span class="smcapall">A.M.</span> the craft was -poled through a hole in a thick welting of coarse reedy -grass and flaggy aquatic plants to a level landing-place -of flat shingle, where the water shoaled off rapidly. -Such was the ghaut or disembarkation quay of the -great Ujiji.</p> - -<p>Around the ghaut a few scattered huts, in the -humblest bee-hive shape, represented the port-town. -Advancing some hundred yards through a din of shouts -and screams, tom-toms and trumpets, which defies description, -and mobbed by a swarm of black beings, whose -eyes seemed about to start from their heads with surprise, -I passed a relic of Arab civilisation, the “Bazar.” -It is a plot of higher ground, cleared of grass, and -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-47">[47]</span> -flanked by a crooked tree; there, between 10 <span class="smcapall">A.M.</span> -and 3 <span class="smcapall">P.M.</span>—weather permitting—a mass of standing -and squatting negroes buy and sell, barter and exchange, -offer and chaffer with a hubbub heard for miles, -and there a spear or dagger-thrust brings on, by no -means unfrequently, a skirmishing faction-fight. The -articles exposed for sale are sometimes goats, sheep, and -poultry, generally fish, vegetables, and a few fruits, -plantains, and melons; palm-wine is a staple commodity, -and occasionally an ivory or a slave is hawked about: -those industriously disposed employ themselves during -the intervals of bargaining in spinning a coarse yarn -with the rudest spindle, or in picking the cotton, which -is placed in little baskets on the ground. I was led to a -ruinous Tembe, built by an Arab merchant, Hamid bin -Salim, who had allowed it to be tenanted by ticks and -slaves. Situated, however, half a mile from, and -backed by, the little village of Kawele, whose mushroom-huts -barely protruded their summits above the dense -vegetation, and placed at a similar distance from the -water in front, it had the double advantage of proximity -to provisions, and of a view which at first was -highly enjoyable. The Tanganyika is ever seen to advantage -from its shores: upon its surface the sight -wearies with the unvarying tintage—all shining greens -and hazy blues—whilst continuous parallels of lofty -hills, like the sides of a huge trough, close the prospect -and suggest the idea of confinement.</p> - -<p>And now, lodged with comparative comfort, in the -cool Tembe, I will indulge in a few geographical and -ethnological reminiscences of the country lately traversed.</p> - -<p>The fifth region includes the alluvial valley of the -Malagarazi River, which subtends the lowest spires of the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-48">[48]</span> -Highlands of Karagwah and Urundi, the western prolongation -of the chain which has obtained, probably -from African tradition, the name of “Lunar Mountains.” -In length, it extends from the Malagarazi Ferry in E. -Lat. 31° 10′ to the Tanganyika Lake, in E. Long. 30° 1′. -Its breadth, from S. Lat. 3° 14′, the supposed northern -limit of Urundi, to S. Lat. 5° 2′; the parallel of -Ukaranga is a distance of 108 rectilinear geographical -miles. Native caravans pass from the Malagarazi to -Ujiji in eight days, usually without halting till arrived -within a stone’s throw of their destination. To a region -of such various elevations it would be difficult to assign -an average of altitude; the heights observed by thermometer -never exceeded 1850 feet.</p> - -<p>This country contains in due order, from east to west, -the lands of Uvinza, Ubuha, and Ujiji: on the northern -edge is Uhha, and on the south-western extremity -Ukaranga. The general features are those of the -alluvial valleys of the Kingani and the Mgeta Rivers. -The soil in the vicinity of the Malagarazi is a rich brown -or black loam, rank with vegetable decay. This strip -along the stream varies in breadth from one to five -miles; on the right bank it is mostly desert, but not -sterile, on the left it is an expanse of luxuriant cultivation. -The northern boundary is a jagged line of hill-spurs -of primitive formation, rough with stones and -yawning with ravines: in many places the projections -assume the form of green “dogs’ tails,” or “neat’s -tongues,” projecting like lumpy ridges into the card-table-like -level of the river-land southwards. Each -mound or spur is crowned with a tufty clump, principally -of bauhinias and mimosas, and often a lone, -spreading and towering tree, a Borassus or a Calabash, -ornamenting the extreme point, forms a landmark for -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-49">[49]</span> -the caravan. The sides of these hills, composed of -hornblende and gneissic rock, quartzite, quartz-grit, -and ferruginous gritstone, are steep, rugged, and thickly -wooded, and one slope generally reflects the other,—if -muddy, muddy; and if stony, stony. Each “hanger,” -or wave of ground, is divided from its neighbour -by a soft sedgy valley, bisected by a network of stagnant -pools. Here and there are nullahs, with high -stiff earthbanks for the passage of rain torrents. The -grass stands in lofty screens, and the path leads over a -matted mass of laid stalks which cover so closely the -thick mud that loaded asses do not sink; this vegetation -is burned down during the hot season, and a few showers -bring up an emerald crop of young blades, sprouting -phœnix-like from the ashes of the dead. The southern -boundary of the valley is more regular; in the eastern -parts is an almost tabular wall of rock, covered even to -the crest with shrub and tree.</p> - -<p>As is proved by the regular course of the Malagarazi -River, the westward decline of the country is gentle: -along the road, however, the two marches nearest to the -Tanganyika Lake appear to sink more rapidly than those -preceding them. The main drain receives from the northern -hill-spurs a multitude of tributaries, which convey -their surplus moisture into the great central reservoir.</p> - -<p>Under the influence of the two great productive -powers in nature—heat and moisture—the wondrous -fertility of the soil, which puts forth where uncleared a -rank jungle of nauseous odour, renders the climate dangerous. -The rains divide the year into two unequal -portions of eight and four months, namely, the wet -monsoon, which commences with violence in September -and ends in May, and the dry hot weather which rounds -off the year. The showers fall, as in Zanzibar, uncontinuously, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-50">[50]</span> -with breaks varying from a few hours to -several days; unlike those of Zanzibar, they are generally -accompanied by violent discharges of electricity. -Lightning from the north, especially at night, is considered -a sign of approaching foul weather. It would -be vain to seek in these regions of Central Africa the -kaskazi and kosi, or regular north-east and south-west -monsoons, those local modifications of the trade-winds -which may be traced in regular progress from the centre -of Equatorial Africa to the Himalayas. The atmospheric -currents deflected from the Atlantic Ocean by -the coast-radiation and the arid and barren regions of -Southern Africa are changed in hydrometric condition, -and are compelled by the chilly and tree-clad heights of -the Tanganyika Lake, and the low, cold, and river-bearing -plains lying to the westward, to part with the moisture -which they have collected in the broad belt of extreme -humidity lying between the Ngami Lake and the equator. -When the land has become super-saturated, the -cold, wet, wind, driving cold masses, surcharged with -electricity, sets continually eastward, to restore the -equilibrium in lands still reeking with the torrid blaze, -and where the atmosphere has been rarified by from four -to six months of burning suns. At Msene, in Western -Unyamwezi, the rains break about October; thence the -wet monsoon, resuming its eastward course, crosses the -Land of the Moon, and, travelling by slow stages, arrives -at the coast in early April. Following the northing -sun, and deflected to the north-east by the rarified -atmosphere from the hot, dry surface of the Eastern -Horn of Africa, the rains reach Western India in June, -and exhaust themselves in frequent and copious downfalls -upon the southern versant of the Himalayas. The -gradual refrigeration of the ground, with the southing of -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-51">[51]</span> -the sun, produces in turn the inverse process, namely, -the north-east monsoon. About the Tanganyika, however, -all is variable. The large body of water in the -central reservoir preserves its equability of temperature, -while the alternations of chilly cold and potent -heat, in the high and broken lands around it, cause -extreme irregularity in the direction of the currents. -During the rains of 1858 the prevalent winds were -constantly changing: in the mornings there was almost -regularly a cool north breeze drawn by the water from -the heights of Urundi; in the course of the day it -varied round towards the south. The most violent -storms came up from the south-east and the south-west, -and as often against as with the gale. The long and -rigorous wet monsoon, broken only by a few scattered -days of heat, renders the climate exceedingly damp, and -it is succeeded by a burst of sunshine which dries the -grass to stubble in a few days. Despite these extremes, -the climate of Ujiji has the reputation of being comparatively -healthy; it owes this probably to the -refreshing coolness of the nights and mornings. The -mukunguru, or seasoning-fever of this region, is not -feared by strangers so much as that of Unyanyembe, -yet no one expects to escape it. It is a low bilious and -aguish type, lasting from three to four days: during -the attack perspiration is induced with difficulty, and it -often recurs at regular times once a month.</p> - -<p>From the Malagarazi Ferry many lines traverse the -desert on the right or northern bank of the river, which -is preferred to the southern, whence the Wavinza -exclude travellers. Before entering this region caravans -generally combine, so as to present a formidable front to -possible foes. The trunk road, called Jambeho, the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-52">[52]</span> -most southerly of the northern routes, has been described -in detail.</p> - -<p>The district of Ukaranga extends from the Ruguvu -or the Unguwwe River to the waters of the lake: on -the south it is bounded by the region of Ut’hongwe, and -on the north by the Ruche River. This small and -sluggish stream, when near the mouth, is about forty -yards in breadth, and, being unfordable at all seasons, -two or three ferry-boats always ply upon its waters. -The <i>rauque</i> bellow of the hippopotamus is heard on its -banks, and the adjacent lowlands are infested by mosquitoes -in clouds. The villages of Ukaranga are -scattered in clumps over the plain—wretched hamlets, -where a few households live surrounded by rare cultivation -in the drier parts of the swamps. The “port -of Ukaranga” is an open roadstead, which seldom shows -even a single canoe. Merchants who possess boats and -can send for provisions to the islands across the lake -sometimes prefer, for economy, Ukaranga to Kawele; -it is also made a halting-place by those <i>en route</i> to -Uguhha, who would lose time by visiting Ujiji. The -land, however, affords no supplies; a bazar is unknown; -and the apathetic tribe, who cultivate scarcely -sufficient grain for themselves, will not even take the -trouble to cast a net. Ukaranga sends bamboos, -rafters for building, and fire-wood, cut in the background -of highlands, to Kawele and other parts of -Ujiji, at which places, however, workmen must be hired.</p> - -<p>Ukaranga signifies, etymologically, the “Land of -Groundnuts.” This little district may, in earlier ages, -have given name to the Mocarangas, Mucarongas, or -Mucarangas, a nation which, according to the Portuguese -historians, from João dos Sanctos (1586-97) to Don -Sebastian Xavier Botelho (1835), occupied the country -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-53">[53]</span> -within the Mozambique, from S. lat. 5° to S. lat. 25°, -under subjection to the sovereign and the people of -“Monomotapa.” In the absence of history, analogy -is the only guide. Either, then, the confusion of the -Tanganyika and the Nyassa Lakes by the old geographers, -caused them to extend the “Mocarangas” -up to the northern water—and the grammatical -error in the word “Mucaranga” justifies some suspicion -as to their accuracy—or in the space of three -centuries the tribe has declined from its former power -and consequence, or the Wakaranga of the Tanganyika -are a remnant of the mighty southern nation, which, -like the Watuta tribe, has of late years been pressed by -adverse circumstances to the north. Though Senhor -Botelho, in his ‘Memoria Estatisca,’ denominates the -“Monomoezi country” “Western Mucaranga,” it is -certain that no Mnyamwezi in the present day owns to -connection with a race speaking a different dialect, and -distant about 200 miles from his frontier.</p> - -<p>The land of Ujiji is bounded on the north by the -heights of Urundi, and on the south by the Ukaranga -country: eastward it extends to Ubuha, and westward -it is washed by the waves of the Tanganyika Lake. On -its north-east lies the land of Uhha, now reduced by -the predatory Watuta to a luxuriant desert.</p> - -<p>The head-quarter village of Ujiji was in 1858 Kawele. -To the westward of this settlement was the district of -Gungu, facing the islet rock Bangwe. This place was -deserted by travellers on account of the plundering -propensities of its former chief. His son “Lurinda,” -however, labours to recover lost ground by courtesy and -attention to strangers. South-eastwards of Kawele is -the district of Ugoyye, frequented by the Arabs, -who find the Sultans Habeyya and Marabu somewhat -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-54">[54]</span> -less extortionate than their neighbours. It is a sandy -spot, clear of white ants, but shut out by villages and -cultivation from the lovely view of the lake. To one -standing at Kawele all these districts and villages are -within two or three miles, and a distant glance discloses -the possessions of half-a-dozen independent tribes.</p> - -<p>Caravans entering Ujiji from the land side usually -encamp in the outlying villages on the right or left bank -of the Ruche, at considerable inconvenience, for some -days. The origin of this custom appears to date from -olden time. In East Africa, as a rule, every stranger -is held to be hostile before he has proved friendly intentions, -and many tribes do not admit him into their -villages without a special invitation. Thus, even in -the present day, the visitor in the countries of the -Somal and Galla, the Wamasai and the Wakwafi, must -sit under some tree outside the settlement till a deputation -of elders, after formally ascertaining his purpose, -escort him to their homes. The modern reason for the -custom, which prevails upon the coast, as well as on the -banks of the Tanganyika, is rather commercial than -political. The caravan halts upon neutral ground, and -the sultans or chiefs of the different villages send select -messengers carrying various presents: in the interior -ivory and slaves, and in the maritime regions cloth and -provisions, technically called “Magubiko,” and intended -as an earnest of their desire to open trade. Sweet -words and fair promises win the day; the Mtongi, or -head of the caravan, after a week of earnest deliberation -with all his followers, chooses his host, temporary -lodgings are provided for the guests, and the value of -the retaining fees is afterwards recovered in Hongá and -Kirembá—blackmail and customs. This custom was -known in Southern Africa by the name of “marts;” -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-55">[55]</span> -that is, a “connection with a person belonging to -another nation, so that they reside at each other’s houses -when visiting the place, and make mutual presents.” -The compulsory guest amongst the Arabs of Zanzibar -and the Somal is called “Nezil.”</p> - -<p>At Ujiji terminates, after twelve stages, which native -caravans generally finish in a fortnight, all halts included, -the transit of the fifth region. The traveller -has now accomplished a total number of 85 long, or -100 short stages, which, with necessary rests, but -excluding detentions and long halts, occupy 150 days. -The direct longitudinal distance from the coast is 540 -geo. miles, which the sinuosities of the road prolong to -955, or in round numbers 950 statute miles. The number -of days expended by the Expedition in actual marching -was 100, of hours 420, which gives a rate of 2·27 miles -per hour. The total time was seven and a-half months, -from the 27th June, 1857, to the 18th February, 1858; -thus the number of the halts exceeded by one-third the -number of the marches. In practice Arab caravans -seldom arrive at the Tanganyika, for reasons before -alluded to, under a total period of six months. Those -lightly laden may make Unyanyembe in between two -and a-half and three months, and from Unyanyembe -Ujiji in twenty-five stages, which would reduce their -journey to four months.</p> - -<p>Dapper (‘Beschryving van Afrika,’ Amst. 1671) -asserts that the “blacks of Pombo, <i>i. e.</i> the Pombeiros, -or native travellers of W. Africa, when asked respecting -the distance of the lake, say that it is at -least a sixty days’ journey, going constantly eastwards.” -But the total breadth of the continent -between Mbuamaji and Loanda being, in round numbers, -1560 geographical miles, this estimate would give -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-56">[56]</span> -a marching rate of twenty-six geographical and rectilinear -miles (or, allowing for deviation, thirty-six statute -miles) per diem. When Da Couto (1565), quoting -the information procured by Francisco Barreto, during -his expedition in 1570, from some Moors (Arabs or -Wasawahili) at Patta and elsewhere, says that “from -Kilwa or Atondo (that is to say, the country of the -Watondwe) the other sea of Angola might be reached -with a journey of fifteen or twenty (150 or 200?) -leagues,” he probably alludes to the Nyassa Lake, lying -south-westwards of Kilwa, not to the Tanganyika. Mr. -Cooley gives one itinerary, by Mohammed bin Nasur, an -old Arab merchant, enumerating seventy-one marches -from Buromaji (Mbuamaji) to Oha (Uhha), and a total -of eighty-three from the coast to the lake; and a second -by a native of Monomoezi, Lief bin Said (a misprint for -Khalaf bin Saíd?) sixty-two to Ogara (Ugala), which -is placed four or five days from Oha. In another page -he remarks that “from Buromaji, near Point Puna, to -Oha in Monomoezi is a journey of seventy-nine, or, in -round numbers, eighty days, the shores of the lake -being still six or eight days distant.” This is the -closest estimate yet made. Mr. Macqueen, from the -itinerary of Lief bin Said, estimates the lake, from the -mouth of the river Pangani, at 604 miles, and seventy-one -days of total march. It is evident, from the preceding -pages, that African authorities have hitherto -confounded the Nyanza, the Tanganyika, and the Nyassa -Lakes. Still, in the estimate of the distance between -the coast and Ujiji there is a remarkable and a most -deceptive coherence.</p> - -<p>Ujiji—also called Manyofo, which appears, however, -peculiar to a certain sultanat or district—is the name -of a province, not, as has been represented, of a single -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-57">[57]</span> -town. It was first visited by the Arabs about 1840; -ten years after that they had penetrated to Unyamwezi; -they found it conveniently situated as a mart upon the -Tanganyika Lake, and a central point where their depôts -might be established, and whence their factors and slaves -could navigate the waters, and collect slaves and ivory -from the tribes upon its banks. But the climate proved -unhealthy, the people dangerous, and the coasting-voyages -frequently ended in disaster; Ujiji, therefore, -never rose to the rank of Unyanyembe or Msene. At -present it is visited during the fair season, from May to -September, by flying caravans, who return to Unyanyembe -as soon as they have loaded their porters.</p> - -<p>Abundant humidity and a fertile soil, evidenced by -the large forest trees and the abundance of ferns, render -Ujiji the most productive province in this section of -Africa: vegetables, which must elsewhere be cultivated, -here seem to flourish almost spontaneously. Rice of -excellent quality was formerly raised by the Arabs -upon the shores of the Tanganyika; it grew luxuriantly, -attaining, it is said, the height of eight or nine feet. -The inhabitants, however, preferring sorghum, and -wearied out by the depredations of the monkey, the -elephant, and the hippopotamus, have allowed the more -civilised cereal to degenerate. The principal grains are -the holcus and the Indian nagli or nanchni (Eleusine -coracano); there is no bajri (panicum or millet) in -these regions; the pulses are phaseoli and the voandzeia, -groundnuts, beans, and haricots of several different -species. The manioc, egg-plant, and sweet-potato, the -yam, the cucumber, an edible white fungus growing -subterraneously, and the Indian variety of the Jerusalem -artichoke, represent the vegetables: the people, -however, unlike the Hindus, despise, and consequently -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-58">[58]</span> -will not be at the pains to cultivate them. Sugar-cane, -tobacco, and cotton are always purchasable in the bazar. -The fruits are the plantain and the Guinea-palm. The -mdizi or plantain-tree is apparently an aborigen of these -latitudes: in certain parts, as in Usumbara, Karagwah, -and Uganda, it is the staff of life: in the hilly countries -there are, it is said, about a dozen varieties, and a -single bunch forms a load for a man. It is found in -the island and on the coast of Zanzibar, at K’hutu in -the head of the alluvial valley, and, though rarely, in the -mountains of Usagara. The best fruit is that grown -by the Arabs at Unyanyembe: it is still a poor specimen, -coarse and insipid, stringy and full of seeds, and -strangers rarely indulge in it, fearing flatulence. Upon -the Tanganyika Lake there is a variety called mikono -t’hembu, or elephant’s-hands, which is considerably -larger than the Indian “horse-plantain.” The skin is -of a brickdust red, in places inclining to rusty-brown; -the pulp is a dull yellow, with black seeds, and the -flavour is harsh, strong, and drug-like. The Elæis -Guiniensis, locally called mchikichi, which is known by -the Arabs to grow in the islands of Zanzibar and Pemba, -and more rarely in the mountains of Usagara, springs -apparently uncultivated in large dark groves on the -shores of the Tanganyika, where it hugs the margin, -rarely growing at any distance inland. The bright-yellow -drupe, with shiny purple-black point, though -nauseous to the taste, is eaten by the people. The -mawezi or palm-oil, of the consistency of honey, rudely -extracted, forms an article of considerable traffic in -the regions about the Lake. This is the celebrated -extract, whose various officinal uses in Europe have -already begun to work a social reformation in W. -Africa. The people of Ujiji separate, by pounding, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-59">[59]</span> -the oily sarcocarpium from the one seed of the drupe, -boil it for some hours, allow the floating substance to -coagulate, and collect it in large earthen pots. The -price is usually about one doti of white cotton for thirty-five -pounds, and the people generally demand salt in -exchange for it from caravans. This is the “oil of a -red colour” which, according to Mr. Cooley, is bought -by the Wanyamwezi “from the opposite or south-western -side of the lake.” Despite its sickly flavour, it is universally -used in cooking, and it forms the only unguent -and lamp-oil in the country. This fine Guinea-palm is -also tapped, as the date in Western India, for toddy; -and the cheapness of this tembo—the sura of West -Africa—accounts for the prevalence of intoxication, -and the consequent demoralisation of the Lakist tribes.</p> - -<p>The bazar at Ujiji is well supplied. Fresh fish of -various kinds is always procurable except during the -violence of the rains: the people, however, invariably -cut it up and clean it out before bringing it to market. -Good honey abounds after the wet monsoon. By the -favour of the chief, milk and butter may be purchased -every day. Long-tailed sheep and well-bred goats, -poultry and eggs—the two latter are never eaten by -the people—are brought in from the adjoining countries: -the Arabs breed a few Manilla ducks, and the -people rear but will not sell pigeons. The few herds at -Ujiji which have escaped the beef-eating propensities -of the Watuta are a fine breed, originally, it is said, -derived by the Wahha from the mountains of Karagwah. -Their horns in these lands appear unusually -large; their stature combines with the smallness of the -hump to render them rather like English than Indian or -African cattle. They are rarely sold of later days, -except for enormous prices, an adult slave being the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-60">[60]</span> -lowest valuation of a cow. The cattle is never stalled -or grain-fed, and the udder is little distended; the produce -is about one quarter that of a civilised cow, and -the animals give milk only during the few first months -after calving. The “tulchan” of Tibet is apparently -unknown in Central Africa; but the people are not -wanting in barbarous contrivances to persuade a stubborn -animal to yield her produce.</p> - -<p>The fauna appear rare upon the borders of the -Tanganyika: all men are hunters; every human being -loves animal food, from white ants to elephants; the -tzetze was found there, and probably the luxuriance of -the vegetation, in conjunction with the extreme humidity, -tends to diminish species and individuals. Herds -of elephants exist in the bamboo-jungles which surround -the sea, but the heaps of ivory sold in the markets of -Ujiji are collected from an area containing thousands of -square miles. Hippopotami and crocodiles are common -in the waters, wild buffaloes in the plains. The hyænas -are bold thieves, and the half-wild “Pariah-dogs” that -slink about the villages are little inferior as depredators. -The people sometimes make pets of them, leading them -about with cords; but they do not object to see them -shot after a raid upon the Arab’s meat, butter, or milk. -These animals are rarely heard to bark; they leave -noise to the village cocks. The huts are as usual haunted -by the grey and the musk-rat. Of birds there is a fine -fish-eagle, about the size of a domestic cock, with snowy -head and shoulders relieving a sombre chocolate plume: -he sits majestically watching his prey upon the tall trees -overhanging the waves of the Tanganyika. A larus, or -sea-gull, with reddish legs, lives in small colonies upon -this lake. At the end of the monsoon in 1858 these birds -were seen to collect in troops upon the sands, as they -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-61">[61]</span> -are accustomed to do at Aden when preparing to migrate. -The common kingfisher is a large bird with a white and -grey plume, a large and strong black bill, and a crest -which somewhat resembles that of the Indian bulbul: -it perches upon the branches over the waters, and in -flight and habits resembles other halcyons. A long and -lank black plotus, or diver, is often seen skimming the -waters, and sandpipers run along the yellow sands. -The other birds are the white-breasted “parson-crow,” -partridges, and quails seen in Urundi; swallows in passage, -curlews, motacillæ, muscicapæ, and various passerines. -Ranæ, some of them noisy in the extreme, -inhabit the sedges close to the lake. The termite does -great damage in the sweet red soils about Kawele: it is -less feared when the ground is dry and sandy. The -huts are full of animal life—snakes, scorpions, ants of -various kinds, whose armies sometimes turn the occupants -out of doors; the rafters are hollowed out by -xylophagous insects; the walls are riddled by mason-bees, -hideous spiders veil the corners with thick webs, -the chirp of the cricket is heard both within and out of -doors, cockroaches destroy the provisions, and large -brown mosquitoes and flies, ticks and bugs, assault the -inhabitants.</p> - -<p>The rise in the price of slaves and ivory has compelled -Arab merchants, as will be seen in another chapter, to -push their explorations beyond the Tanganyika Lake. -Ujiji is, however, still the great slave-mart of these regions, -the article being collected from all the adjoining -tribes of Urundi, Uhha, Uvira, and Marungu. The native -dealers, however, are so acute, that they are rapidly -ruining this their most lucrative traffic. They sell -cheaply, and think to remunerate themselves by aiding -and abetting desertion. Merchants, therefore, who do -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-62">[62]</span> -not chain or cord together their gangs till they have -reached the east bank of the Malagarazi River, often -lose 20 per cent. The prevalence of the practice has -already given Ujiji a bad name, and, if continued, will -remove the market to another place, where the people -are somewhat less clever and more sensible. It is impossible -to give any idea of the average price of the -human commodity, which varies, under the modifications -of demand and supply, from two to ten doti or -tobes of American domestics. Yet as these purchases -sell in Zanzibar for fourteen or fifteen dollars per head, -the trade realises nearly 500 per cent., and will, therefore, -with difficulty be put down.</p> - -<p>The principal tribes in this region are the Wajiji, the -Wavinza, the Wakaranga, the Watuta, the Wabuha, and -the Wahha.</p> - -<p>The Wajiji are a burly race of barbarians, far stronger -than the tribes hitherto traversed, with dark skins, -plain features, and straight, sturdy limbs: they are -larger and heavier men than the Wanyamwezi, and the -type, as it approaches Central Africa, becomes rather -negro than negroid.<a id="FNanchorii1"></a><a href="#Footnoteii1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> Their feet and hands are large -and flat, their voices are harsh and strident, and their -looks as well as their manners are independent even to -insolence. The women, who are held in high repute, -resemble, and often excel, their masters in rudeness and -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-63">[63]</span> -violence; they think little in their cups of entering a -stranger’s hut, and of snatching up and carrying away -an article which excites their admiration. Many of both -sexes, and all ages, are disfigured by the small-pox—the -Arabs have vainly taught them inoculation—and -there are few who are not afflicted by boils and various -eruptions; there is also an inveterate pandemic itch, -which, according to their Arab visitors, results from a -diet of putrid fish.</p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnoteii1"></a><a href="#FNanchorii1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> -My companion observes (in Blackwood, Nov. 1859), “It may be worthy -of remark that I have always found the lighter coloured savages more boisterous -and warlike than those of the dingier hue. The <i>ruddy black</i>, fleshy-looking -Wazaramos and Wagogos are much <i>lighter</i> in colour (!) than any -of the other tribes, and certainly have a far superior, more manly and warlike -independent spirit and bearing than any of the others.” The “dingiest” -peoples are usually the most degraded, and therefore sometimes the least -powerful; but the fiercest races in the land are the Wazaramo, the Wajiji -and the Wataturu, who are at the same time the darkest.</p> - -</div><!--footnote--> - -<p>This tribe is extensively tattooed, probably as a protection -against the humid atmosphere, and the chills of -the Lake Region. Some of the chiefs have ghastly scars -raised by fire, in addition to large patterns marked upon -their persons—lines, circles, and rays of little cupping-cuts -drawn down the back, the stomach, and the arms, -like the tattoo of the Wangindo tribe near Kilwa. Both -sexes love to appear dripping with oil; and they manifestly -do not hold cleanliness to be a virtue. The head -is sometimes shaved; rarely the hair is allowed to grow; -the most fashionable coiffure is a mixture of the two; -patches and beauty-spots in the most eccentric shapes—buttons, -crescents, crests, and galeated lines—being -allowed to sprout either on the front, the sides, or the -back of the head, from a carefully-scraped scalp. -Women as well as men are fond of binding a wisp of -white tree-fibre round their heads, like the ribbon which -confines the European old person’s wig. There is not -a trace of mustachio or whisker in the country; they -are removed by the tweezers, and the climate, according -to the Arabs, is, like that of Unyamwezi, unfavourable -to beards. For cosmetics both sexes apply, when they -can procure such luxuries, red earth to the face, and over -the head a thick-coating of chalk or mountain-meal, which -makes their blackness stand out hideously grotesque.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-64">[64]</span></p> - -<p>The chiefs wear expensive stuffs, checks, and cottons, -which they extract from passing caravans. Women of -wealth affect the tobe or coast-dress, and some were seen -wearing red and blue broadcloths. The male costume -of the lower orders is confined to softened goat, sheep, -deer, leopard, or monkey skins, tied at two corners over -either shoulder, with the flaps open at one side, -and with tail and legs dangling in the wind. -Women who cannot afford cloth use as a succedaneum -a narrow kilt of fibre or skin, and some content -themselves with a tassel of fibre or a leafy twig -depending from a string bound round the waist, and -displaying the nearest approach to the original fig-leaf. -At Ujiji, however, the people are observed, for the first -time, to make extensive use of the macerated tree-bark, -which supplies the place of cotton in Urundi, Karagwah, -and the northern kingdoms. This article, technically -termed “mbugu,” is made from the inner bark of various -trees, especially the mrimba and the mwale, or huge -Raphia-palm. The trunk of the full-grown tree is -stripped of its integument twice or thrice, and is bound -with plantain-leaves till a finer growth is judged fit for -manipulation. This bark is carefully removed, steeped -in water, macerated, kneaded, and pounded with clubs -and battens to the consistency of a coarse cotton. Palm-oil -is then spirted upon it from the mouth, and it -acquires the colour of chamois-leather. The Wajiji obtain -the mbugu mostly from Urundi and Uvira. They -are fond of striping it with a black vegetable mud, so -as to resemble the spoils of leopards and wild cats, -and they favour the delusion by cutting the edge into -long strips, like the tails and other extremities of wild -beasts. The price of the mbugu varies according to -size, from six to twelve khete or strings of beads. -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-65">[65]</span> -Though durable, it is never washed: after many -months’ wear the superabundance of dirt is removed by -butter or ghee.</p> - -<p>Besides the common brass-wire girdles and bracelets, -armlets and anklets, masses of white-porcelain, blue-glass, -and large pigeon-egg beads, and hundreds of the -iron-wire circlets called sambo, which, worn with ponderous -brass or copper rings round the lower leg, above -the foot, suggest at a distance the idea of disease, the -Wajiji are distinguished from tribes not on the lake by -necklaces of shells—small pink bivalves strung upon a -stout fibre. They have learned to make brass from -the Arabs, by melting down one-third of zinc imported -from the coast with two parts of the fine soft and red -copper brought from the country of the Kazeembe. -Like their Lakist neighbours, they ornament the throat -with disks, crescents, and strings of six or seven cones, -fastened by the apex, and depending to the breast. -Made of the whitest ivory or of the teeth, not the tusks, -of the hippopotamus, these dazzling ornaments effectively -set off the dark and negro-like skin. Another -peculiarity amongst these people is a pair of iron pincers -or a piece of split wood ever hanging round the neck; -nor is its use less remarkable than its presence. The -Lakists rarely chew, smoke, or take snuff according to -the fashion of the rest of mankind. Every man carries -a little half-gourd or diminutive pot of black earthenware, -nearly full of tobacco; when inclined to indulge, -he fills it with water, expresses the juice, and from the -palm of his hand sniffs it up into his nostrils. The -pincers serve to close the exit, otherwise the nose must -be temporarily corked by the application of finger and -thumb. Without much practice it is difficult to articulate -during the retention of the dose, which lasts a -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-66">[66]</span> -few minutes, and when an attempt is made the words -are scarcely intelligible. The arms of the Wajiji are -small battle-axes and daggers, spears, and large bows, -which carry unusually heavy arrows. They fear the -gun and the sabre, yet they show no unwillingness to -fight. The Arabs avoid granting their demands for -muskets and gunpowder, consequently a great chief -never possesses more than two or three fire-locks.</p> - -<p>The Lakists are an almost amphibious race, excellent -divers, strong swimmers and fishermen, and vigorous -ichthyophagists all. At times, when excited by the -morning coolness and by the prospect of a good haul, -they indulge in a manner of merriment which resembles -the gambols of sportive water-fowls: standing -upright and balancing themselves in their hollow logs, -which appear but little larger than themselves, they -strike the water furiously with their paddles, skimming -over the surface, dashing to and fro, splashing one -another, urging forward, backing, and wheeling their -craft, now capsizing, then regaining their position with -wonderful dexterity. They make coarse hooks, and -have many varieties of nets and creels. Conspicuous -on the waters and in the villages is the Dewa, or “otter” -of Oman, a triangle of stout reeds, which shows the -position of the net. A stronger kind, and used for -the larger ground-fish, is a cage of open basket-work, -provided, like the former, with a bait and two entrances. -The fish once entangled cannot escape, and a log of -wood, used as a trimmer, attached to a float-rope of -rushy plants, directs the fisherman. The heaviest animals -are caught by a rope-net—the likh of Oman—weighted -and thrown out between two boats. They -have circular lath frames, meshed in with a knot somewhat -different from that generally used in Europe; the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-67">[67]</span> -smaller variety is thrown from the boat by a single man, -who follows it into the water,—the larger, which -reaches six feet in diameter, is lowered from the bow by -cords, and collects the fish attracted by the glaring -torch-fire. The Wajiji also make large and small drag-nets, -some let down in a circle by one or more canoes, -the others managed by two fishermen, who, swimming -at each end, draw them in when ready. They have little -purse-nets to catch small fry, hoops thrust into a long -stick-handle through the reed walls that line the shore; -and by this simple contrivance the fish are caught in -considerable quantities. The wigo or crates alluded to -as peculiar in the ‘Periplus,’ and still common upon -the Zanzibar coast, are found at the Tanganyika. The -common creel resembles the khún of Western India, -and is well-known even to the Bushmen of the South: -it is a cone of open bamboo-strips or supple twigs, -placed lengthways, and bound in and out by strings of -grass or tree-fibre. It is closed at the top, and at the -bottom there is a narrow aperture, with a diagonally-disposed -entrance like that of a wire rat-trap, which -prevents the fish escaping. It is placed upon its side -with a bait, embanked with mud, reeds, or sand, and -seems to answer the purpose for which it is intended. -In Uzaramo and near the coast the people narcotise fish -with the juice of certain plants, asclepias and euphorbias: -about the Tanganyika the art appears unknown.</p> - -<p>There are many varieties of fish in the waters of this -Lake. The Mvoro is a long and bony variety, in shape -like a large mackerel; the Sangále resembles it, but the -head and body are thicker. The Mgege, which suggests -the Pomfret of Western India, is well flavoured, but full -of bones. The Mguhe is said to attain the length of -five or six feet: it is not unlike the kheri of the Indian -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-68">[68]</span> -rivers, and to a European palate it is the best fish that -swims in these waters. The largest is the Singá, a -scaleless variety, with black back, silvery belly, small -fins, and long fleshy cirri: it crawls along the bottom, and -is unfit for leaping or for rapid progress. This sluggish -and misshapen ground-fish is much prized by the people -on account of its rich and luscious fat. Like the Pallu -of Sindh, it soon palls upon the European palate. Want -of flavour is the general complaint made by the Arabs -and coast people against the produce of the Tanganyika: -they attempt to diminish the wateriness of the fish by -exposing it spitted to a slow fire, and by subsequently -stowing it for the night in well-closed earthen pots. -Besides the five varieties above alluded to, there are -dwarf eels of good flavour, resembling the Indian Bam; -Dagá’a, small fish called by the Arabs Kashu’a, -minnows of many varieties, which, simply sundried, or -muriated if salt can be afforded, find their way far east; -a dwarf shrimp, about one quarter the size of the common -English species; and a large bivalve called Sinani, -and identified as belonging to the genus Iridina. The -meat is fat and yellow, like that of a well-fed oyster, -but it is so insipid that none but a Mjiji can eat it. -The shells collected upon the shores of the Tanganyika -and on the land journey have been described by Mr. -Samuel P. Woodward, who courteously named the -species after the European members of the Expedition. -To his memoir—quoted in <a href="#Pageii-102">pages 102</a>, <a href="#Pageii-103">103</a> of this -volume—the reader is referred.</p> - -<p>The Wajiji are considered by the Arabs to be the -most troublesome race in these black regions. They -are taught, by the example of their chiefs, to be rude, -insolent, and extortionate; they demand beads even for -pointing out the road; they will deride and imitate a -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-69">[69]</span> -stranger’s speech and manner before his face; they can -do nothing without a long preliminary of the fiercest -scolding; they are as ready with a blow as with a word; -and they may often be seen playing at “rough and -tumble,” fighting, pushing, and tearing hair, in their -boats. A Mjiji uses his dagger or his spear upon a -guest with little hesitation; he thinks twice, however, -before drawing blood, if it will cause a feud. Their -roughness of manner is dashed with a curious ceremoniousness. -When the sultan appears amongst his people, -he stands in a circle and claps his hands, to which all -respond in the same way. Women curtsy to one another, -bending the right knee almost to the ground. -When two men meet they clasp each other’s arms with -both hands, rubbing them up and down, and ejaculating -for some minutes, “Nama sanga? nama sanga?—art -thou well?” They then pass the hands down to the -forearm, exclaiming “Wákhe? wákhe?—how art thou?” -and finally they clap palms at each other, a token of -respect which appears common to these tribes of Central -Africa. The children have all the frowning and unprepossessing -look of their parents; they reject little -civilities, and seem to spend life in disputes, biting and -clawing like wild cats. There appears to be little -family affection in this undemonstrative race. The -only endearment between father and son is a habit of -scratching and picking each other, caused probably by -the prevalence of a complaint before alluded to; as -amongst the Simiads, the intervals between pugnacity are -always spent in exercising the nails. Sometimes, also, -at sea, when danger is near, the Mjiji breaks the mournful -silence of his fellows, who are all thinking of home, -with the exclamation, “Yá mgúri wánje!—O my wife!” -They are never sober when they can be drunk; perhaps -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-70">[70]</span> -in no part of the world will the traveller more often see -men and women staggering about the village with thick -speech and violent gestures. The favourite inebrient is -tembo or palm-toddy; almost every one, however, even -when on board the canoe, smokes bhang, and the whooping -and screaming which follow the indulgence resemble -the noise of wild beasts rather than the sounds of human -beings. Their food consists principally of holcus, manioc, -and fish, which is rarely eaten before it becomes offensive -to European organs.</p> - -<p>The great Mwami or Sultan of Ujiji in 1858-59 was -Rusimba. Under him were several mutware (mutwale) -or minor chiefs, one to each settlement, as Kannena in -Kawele and Lurinda in Gungu. On the arrival of a -caravan, Rusimba forwards, through his relations, a tusk -or two of ivory, thus mutely intimating that he requires -his blackmail, which he prefers to receive in beads and -kitindi or coil-bracelets, proportioning, however, his demand -to the trader’s means. When this point has been -settled, the mutware sends his present, and expects a -proportionate return. He is, moreover, entitled to a fee -for every canoe hired; on each slave the kiremba or -excise is about half the price; from one to two cloths -are demanded upon every tusk of ivory; and he will -snatch a few beads from a man purchasing provisions -for his master. The minor headmen are fond of making -“sare” or brotherhood with strangers, in order to secure -them in case of return. They depend for influence over -their unruly subjects wholly upon personal qualifications, -bodily strength, and violence of temper. A chief, -though originally a slave, may “win golden opinions” -by his conduct when in liquor: he assumes the most -ferocious aspect, draws his dagger, brandishes his spear, -and, with loud screams, rushes at his subjects as intent -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-71">[71]</span> -upon annihilating them. The affairs of the nation are -settled by the mwami, the chief, in a general council of -the lieges, the wateko (in the singular mteko) or elders -presiding. Their intellects, never of the brightest, are -invariably fuddled with toddy, and, after bawling for -hours together and coming apparently to the most satisfactory -conclusion, the word of a boy or of an old woman -will necessitate another lengthy palaver. The sultans, -like their subjects, brook no delay in their own affairs; -they impatiently dun a stranger half-a-dozen times a day -for a few beads, while they patiently keep him waiting -for weeks on occasions to him of the highest importance, -whilst they are drinking pombe or taking leave of their -wives. Besides the magubiko or preliminary presents, -the chiefs are bound, before the departure of a caravan -which has given them satisfaction, to supply it with -half-a-dozen masuta or matted packages of grain, and -to present the leader with a slave, who generally manages -to abscond. The parting gifts are technically -called “urangozi,” or guidance.</p> - -<p>Under the influence of slavery the Wajiji have made -no progress in the art of commerce. They know nothing -of bargaining or of credit: they will not barter -unless the particular medium upon which they have set -their hearts is forthcoming; and they fix a price -according to their wants, not to the value of the article. -The market varies with the number of caravans present -at the depôt, the season, the extent of supply, and a -variety of similar considerations. Besides the trade in -ivory, slaves, bark, cloth, and palm-oil, they manufacture -and hawk about iron sickles shaped like the European, -kengere, kiugi, or small bells, and sambo, locally -called tambi, or wire circlets, worn as ornaments round -the ankles; long double-edged knives in wooden sheaths, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-72">[72]</span> -neatly whipped with strips of rattan; and jembe or -hoes. Of bells a dozen were purchased in March and -April of 1858 for two fundo of white beads. Jembe -and large sime averaged also two fundo. Of good -sambo 100, and of the inferior quality 200, were procurable -for a fundo. The iron is imported in a rough -state from Uvira. The value of a goat was one shukkah, -which here represents, as in Unyamwezi, twelve -feet, or double the length of the shukkah in other regions, -the single cloth being called lupande, or upande. -Sheep, all of a very inferior quality, cost somewhat -more than goats. A hen, or from five to six eggs, fetched -one khete of samesame, or red-coral beads, which are -here worth three times the quantity of white porcelain. -Large fish, or those above two pounds in weight, were -sold for three khete; the small fry—the white bait of -this region—one khete per two pounds; and diminutive -shrimps one khete per three pounds. Of plantains, a -small bunch of fifteen, and of sweet potatoes and yams -from ten to fifteen roots, were purchased for a khete; -of artichokes, egg-plants, and cucumbers, from fifty to -one hundred. The wild vegetables generically called -mboga are the cheapest of these esculents. Beans, -phaseoli, ground-nuts, and the voandzeia, were expensive, -averaging about two pounds per khete. Rice -is not generally grown in Ujiji; a few measures of fine -white grain were purchased at a fancy price from one -Sayfu bin Hasani, a pauper Msawahili, from the isle of -Chole, settled in the country. The sugar-cane is poor -and watery, it was sold in lengths of four or five feet for -the khete: one cloth and two khete purchased three -pounds of fine white honey. Tobacco was comparatively -expensive. Of the former a shukkah procured a -bag weighing perhaps ten pounds. Milk was sold at -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-73">[73]</span> -arbitrary prices, averaging about three teacups for the -khete. A shukkah would procure three pounds of -butter, and ghee was not made for the market. It was -impossible to find sweet toddy, as the people never -smoke nor clean the pots into which it is drawn; of the -acid and highly intoxicating drink used by the Wajiji, -from five to six teacups were to be bought with a khete. -Firewood, being imported, was expensive, a khete -being the price of a little faggot containing from fifty -to one hundred sticks. About one pound of unclean cotton -was to be purchased for three khete of samesame. -It must be observed, that this list of prices, which -represents the market at Kawele, gives a high average, -many of the articles being brought in canoes from considerable -distances, and even from the opposite coast.</p> - -<p>The traveller in the Lake Regions loses by cloth; the -people, contented with softened skins and tree-bark, prefer -beads, ornaments, and more durable articles: on the -other hand, he gains upon salt, which is purchased at -half-price at the Parugerero Pan, and upon large wires -brought from the coast. Beads are a necessary evil to -those engaged in purchasing ivory and slaves. In 1858 -the Wajiji rejected with contempt the black porcelains, -called ububu. At first they would not receive the -khanyera, or white-porcelains; and afterwards, when -the Expedition had exchanged, at a considerable loss, -their large stock for langiyo, or small blues, they -demanded the former. The bead most in fashion was -the mzizima, or large blue-glass, three khete of -which were equivalent to a small cloth; the samesame, -or red-corals, required to be exchanged for -mzizima, of which one khete was an equivalent to three -of samesame. The maguru nzige, or pink porcelains, -were at par. The tobacco-stem bead, called sofi, and -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-74">[74]</span> -current at Msene, was in demand. The reader will -excuse the prolixity of these wearisome details, they -are necessary parts of a picture of manners and customs -in Central Africa. Moreover, a foreknowledge of the -requirements of the people is a vital condition of successful -exploration. There is nothing to arrest the -traveller’s progress in this section of the African interior -except the failure of his stores.</p> - -<p>A serious inconvenience awaits the inexperienced, -who find a long halt at, and a return from, Ujiji necessary. -The Wanyamwezi pagazi, or porters, hired at -Unyanyembe, bring with them the cloth and beads -which they have received as hire for going to and -coming from the lake, and lose no time in bartering -the outfit for ivory or slaves. Those who prefer the -former article will delay for some time with extreme -impatience and daily complaints, fearing to cross -Uvinza in small bodies when loaded with valuables. -The purchasers of slaves, however, knowing that they -will inevitably lose them after a few days at Ujiji, -desert at once. In all cases, the report that a caravan -is marching eastwards causes a general disappearance -of the porters. As the Wajiji will not carry, the caravan -is reduced to a halt, which may be protracted for -months, in fact, till another body of men coming from -the east will engage themselves as return porters. -Moreover, the departure homewards almost always -partakes of the nature of a flight, so fearful are the -strangers lest their slaves should seize the opportunity -to desert. The Omani Arabs obviate these inconveniences -by always travelling with large bodies of -domestics, whose interest it is not to abandon the -master.</p> - -<p>South of the Wajiji lie the Wakaranga, a people previously -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-75">[75]</span> -described as almost identical in development -and condition, but somewhat inferior in energy and -civilisation. Little need be said of the Wavinza, who -appear to unite the bad qualities of both the Wanyamwezi -and the Ujiji. They are a dark, meagre, and ill-looking -tribe; poorly clad in skin aprons and kilts. -They keep off insects by inserting the chauri, or fly-flap, -into the waistband of their kilts: and at a distance they -present, like the Hottentots, the appearance of a race -with tails. Their arms are spears, bows, and arrows; -and they use, unlike their neighbours, wicker-work -shields six feet long by two in breadth. Their chiefs -are of the Watosi race, hence every stranger who meets -with their approbation is called, in compliment, Mtosi. -They will admit strangers into their villages, dirty -clumps of beehive huts; but they refuse to provide -them with lodging. Merchants with valuable outfits -prefer the jungle, and wait patiently for provisions -brought in baskets from the settlements. The Wavinza -seldom muster courage to attack a caravan, but stragglers -are in imminent danger of being cut off by them. -Their country is rich in cattle and poultry, grain -and vegetables. Bhang grows everywhere near the -settlements, and they indulge themselves in it immoderately.</p> - -<p>The Watuta—a word of fear in these regions—are a -tribe of robbers originally settled upon the southern -extremity of the Tanganyika Lake. After plundering -the lands of Marungu and Ufipa, where they almost -annihilated the cattle, the Watuta, rounding the eastern -side of the Lake, migrated northwards. Some years ago -they were called in by Ironga, the late Sultan of U’ungu, -to assist him against Mui’ Gumbi, the powerful chief of -the Warori. The latter were defeated, after obstinate -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-76">[76]</span> -fighting for many months. After conquering the -Warori, the Watuta settled in Sultan Ironga’s lands, -rather by might than right, and they were expelled by -his son with the greatest difficulty. From U’ungu their -next step was to the southern bank of the Malagarazi -River. About three years ago this restless tribe was -summoned by Mzogera, the present Sultan of Uvinza, -to assist him in seizing Uhha, which had just lost -T’háre, its chief. The Watuta crossed the Malagarazi, -laid waste the lands of Uhha and Ubuha, and desolated -the northern region between the river and the lake. -Shortly afterwards they attacked Msene, and were only -repulsed by the matchlocks of the Arabs, after a week -of hard skirmishing. In the early part of 1858 they -slew Ruhembe, the Sultan of Usui, a district north of -Unyanyembe, upon the road to Karagwah. In the -latter half of the same year they marched upon Ujiji, -plundered Gungu, and proceeded to attack Kawele. -The Arab merchants, however, who were then absent -on a commercial visit to Uviva, returned precipitately -to defend their depôts, and with large bodies of slave -musketeers beat off the invader. The lands of the -Watuta are now bounded on the north by Utumbara, -on the south by Msene; eastwards by the meridian -of Wilyankuru, and westwards by the highlands of -Urundi.</p> - -<p>The Watuta, according to the Arabs, are a pastoral -tribe, despising, like the Wamasai and the Somal, such -luxuries as houses and fields; they wander from place -to place, camping under trees, over which they throw -their mats, and driving their herds and plundered cattle -to the most fertile pasture-grounds. The dress is sometimes -a mbugu or bark-cloth; more generally it is confined -to the humblest tribute paid to decency by the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-77">[77]</span> -Kafirs of the Cape, and they have a similar objection -to removing it. On their forays they move in large -bodies, women as well as men, with the children and -baggage placed upon bullocks, and their wealth in brass -wire twisted round the horns. Their wives carry their -weapons, and join, it is said, in the fight. The arms are -two short spears, one in the right hand, the other in -the left, concealed by a large shield, so that they can -thrust upwards unawares: disdaining bows and arrows, -they show their superior bravery by fighting at close -quarters, and they never use the spear as an assegai. -In describing their tactics, the Arabs call them -“manœuvrers like the Franks.” Their thousands -march in four or five extended lines, and attack by -attempting to envelop the enemy. There is no shouting -nor war-cry to distract the attention of the combatants: -iron whistles are used for the necessary -signals. During the battle the sultan, or chief, whose -ensign is a brass stool, sits attended by his forty or fifty -elders in the rear; his authority is little more than -nominal, the tribe priding itself upon autonomy. The -Watuta rarely run away, and take no thought of their -killed and wounded. They do not, like the ancient -Jews, and the Gallas and Abyssinians of the present -day, carry off a relic of the slain foe; in fact, the -custom seems to be ignored south of the equator. The -Watuta have still however a wholesome fear of fire-arms, -and the red flag of a caravan causes them to -decamp without delay. According to the Arabs they -are not inhospitable, and though rough in manner they -have always received guests with honour. A fanciful -trait is related concerning them: their first question to -a stranger will be, “Didst thou see me from afar?”—which, -being interpreted, means, Did you hear of my -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-78">[78]</span> -greatness before coming here?—and they hold an -answer in the negative to be a casus belli.</p> - -<p>Remain for consideration the people of Ubuha and -Uhha. The Wabuha is a small and insignificant tribe -bounded on the north by Uhha, and on the south by -the Malagarazi River: the total breadth is about three -marches; the length, from the Rusugi stream of the -Wavinza to the frontiers of Ujiji and Ukaranga, is in -all a distance of four days. Their principal settlement -is Uyonwa, the district of Sultan Mariki: it is a mere -clearing in the jungle, with a few pauper huts dotting -fields of sweet potatoes. This harmless and oppressed -people will sell provisions, but though poor they are -particular upon the subject of beads, preferring coral -and blue to the exclusion of black and white. They -are a dark, curly-headed, and hard-favoured race: they -wear the shushah or top-knot on the poll, dress in -skins and tree-barks, ornament themselves with brass -and copper armlets, ivory disks, and beads, and are -never without their weapons, spears and assegais, sime -or daggers, and small battle-axes. Honourable women -wear tobes of red broadcloth and fillets of grass or fibre -confining the hair.</p> - -<p>Uhha, written by Mr. Cooley Oha, was formerly a -large tract of land bounded on the north by the -mountains of Urundi, southwards and eastwards by -the Malagarazi River, and on the west by the -northern parts of Ujiji. As has been recounted, the -Wahha dispersed by the Watuta have dispersed themselves -over the broad lands between Unyanyembe and -the Tanganyika, and their own fertile country, well -stocked with the finest cattle, has become a waste of -jungle. A remnant of the tribe, under Kanoni, their -present Sultan, son of the late T’háre, took refuge in -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-79">[79]</span> -the highlands of Urundi, not far from the principal -settlement of the mountain king Mwezí: here they find -water and pasture for their herds, and the strength of -the country enables them to beat off their enemies. -The Wahha are a comparatively fair and a not uncomely -race; they are however universally held to be -a vile and servile people; according to the Arabs -they came originally from the southern regions, the -most ancient seat of slavery in E. Africa. Their -Sultans or chiefs are of Wahinda or princely origin, -probably descendants from the regal race of Unyamwezi. -Wahha slaves sell dearly at Msene; an adult -male costs from five to six doti merkani, and a full-grown -girl one gorah merkani or kaniki.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-80">[80]</span></p> - -<div class="container w40em" id="Illoii-9"> -<img src="images/ii_illo092.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">Head Dresses of Wanyamwezi.</p> -</div> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapno">CHAP. XIV.</span><br /> -<span class="chapname">WE EXPLORE THE TANGANYIKA LAKE.</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p class="noindent">My first care after settling in Hamid’s Tembe, was to -purify the floor by pastiles of assafœtida, and fumigations -of gunpowder; my second was to prepare the -roof for the rainy season. Improvement, however, -progressed slowly; the “children” of Said bin Salim -were too lazy to work; and the Wanyamwezi porters, -having expended their hire in slaves, and fearing loss -by delay, took the earliest opportunity of deserting. -By the aid of a Msawahili artisan, I provided a pair -of cartels, with substitutes for chairs and tables. -Benches of clay were built round the rooms, but they -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-81">[81]</span> -proved useless, being found regularly every morning -occupied in force by a swarming, struggling colony, of -the largest white ants. The roof, long overgrown with -tall grass, was fortified with an extra coat of mud; -it never ceased, however, leaking like a colander; -presently the floor was covered with deep puddles, -then masses of earth dropped from the sopped copings -and sides of the solid walls, and, at last, during the -violent showers, half the building fell in. The consequence -of the extreme humidity was, that every book -which had English paste in it was rendered useless by -decay; writing was rendered illegible by stains and black -mildew; moreover, during my absence, whilst exploring -the Lake, Said bin Salim having neglected to keep a fire, -as was ordered, constantly burning in the house, a large -botanical collection was irretrievably lost. This was the -more regretable as our return to the coast took place -during the dry season, when the woods were bare of -leaf, flower, and fruit.</p> - -<p>On the second day after my arrival I was called upon -by “Kannena,” the headman of Kawele, under Rusimba, -the Mwami, or principal chief of Ujiji. I had heard a bad -account of the former. His predecessor, Kabeza, a -great favourite with the Arabs, had died about two -months before we entered Kawele, leaving a single son, -hardly ten years old, and Kannena, a slave, having the -art to please the widows of the deceased, and, through -them, the tribe, caused himself to be elected temporary -headman during the heir’s minority. He was introduced -habited in silk turban and broadcloth coat, -which I afterwards heard he had borrowed from the -Baloch, in order to put in a prepossessing first appearance. -The effort, however, failed; his aspect was truly -ignoble; a short, squat, and broad-backed figure, with -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-82">[82]</span> -natural “plumpers,” a black skin cut and carved in -various patterns, thick straight, stumpy, legs, and huge -splay feet; his low narrow brow was ever knotted into a -peevish frown, his apology for a nose much resembled -the pug with which the ancients provided Silenus, and a -villanous expression lurked about the depressed corners -of his thick-lipped, sensual, liquorish mouth. On this -occasion he behaved with remarkable civility, and he -introduced, as the envoys commissioned by the great Rusimba -to receive his blackmail, two gentlemen a quarter-clad -in the greasiest and scantiest bark-aprons, and armed -with dwarfish battle-axes. The present was finally -settled at ten coil-bracelets and two fundi of coral-beads. -I had no salt—the first article in demand—to spare, or -much valuable merchandise might have been saved. The -return was six small bundles of grain, worth, probably, -one-tenth of what had been received. Then Kannena -opened trade by sending us a nominal gift, a fine ivory, -weighing at least seventy pounds, and worth, perhaps, one -hundred pounds, or nearly two mens’ loads of the white -or blue-porcelain beads used in this traffic. After keeping -it for a day or two, I returned it, excusing myself -by saying that, having visited the Tanganyika as a -“Sarkal,” I could have no dealings in ivory and slaves.</p> - -<p>This was right and proper in the character of a -“Sarkal.” But future adventurers are strongly advised -always to assume the character of traders. In the -first place, it explains the traveller’s motives to the -people, who otherwise lose themselves in a waste of wild -conjecture. Secondly, under this plea, the explorer can -push forward into unknown countries; he will be -civilly received, and lightly fined, because the hosts -expect to see him or his semblables again; whereas, -appearing without ostensible motive amongst them, he -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-83">[83]</span> -would be stripped of his last cloth by recurring confiscations, -fines, and every annoyance which greed of -gain can suggest. Thus, as the sequel will prove, he -loses more by overcharges than by the trifling outlay -necessary to support the character of a trader. He -travels respectably as a “Mundewa” or “Tajir,” a merchant, -which is ever the highest title given by the people to -strangers; and he can avoid exciting the jealousy of -the Arabs by exchanging his tusks with them at a -trifling loss when comforts or provisions are required -for the road.</p> - -<p>So strange an announcement on my part aroused, as -may be supposed, in the minds of the Wajiji marvel, -doubt, disbelief, ill-will. “These are men who live -by doing nothing!” exclaimed the race commercial -as the sons of Hamburg; and they lost no time in -requesting me to quit their territory sooner than convenient. -To this I objected, offering, however, as compensation -for the loss of their octrois and perquisites -to pay for not trading what others paid for trading. -Kannena roughly informed me that he had a claim for -Kiremba, or duties upon all purchases and sales; two -cloths, for instance, per head of slave, or per elephant’s -tusk; and that, as he expected to gain nothing by -brokerage from me, he must receive as compensation, -four coil-bracelets and six cotton cloths. These -were at once forwarded to him. He then evidenced his -ill-will in various ways, and his people were not slow -in showing the dark side of their character. They -threatened to flog Sayfu, the old Msawahili of Chole, -for giving me hints concerning prices. The two surviving -riding asses were repeatedly wounded with -spears. Thieves broke into the outhouses by night, -and stole all the clothes belonging to the Jemadar and -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-84">[84]</span> -to the bull-headed slave Mabruki. At first the widows -of the late Kabeza, to whom the only cows in the district -belonged, supplied us plentifully with milk; gradually -the quantity shrank, whenever an opportunity -offered it was “cut off;” and, at last, we could no -longer afford the exorbitant price demanded. My companion -having refused a cheese to Kannena, the dowager -ladies, who owned the cows, when applied to for milk, -threw away the vessel, and swore that by boiling what -ought to be drunk unboiled, we were manifestly bewitching -and killing their cattle. On one occasion, a young -person related to Rusimba went to the huts of the -Baloch, and, snatching up a fine cloth which she clasped -to her bosom, defied them to recover it by force, and -departed, declaring that it was a fine for bringing -“whites” into the country. At first our heroes spoke -of much slaughter likely to arise from such procedure, -and with theatrical gesture, made “<i>rapière au vent</i>;” -presently second-thoughts suggested how beautiful is -peace, and thirdly, they begged so hard, that I was compelled -to ransom for them the article purloined. I had -unwittingly incurred the animosity of Kennena. On -the day after his appearance in rich clothing he had -entered unannounced with bare head, a spear or two in -hand, and a bundle of wild-cats’ skins by way of placket; -not being recognised, he was turned out, and the ejectment -mortally offended his dignity. Still other travellers -fared even worse than we did. Said bin Majid, -who afterwards arrived at Ujiji to trade for ivory and -slaves, had two followers wounded by the Wajiji, one -openly speared in the bazaar, and the other at night by -a thief who was detected digging through the wall -of the store-hut.</p> - -<p>After trade was disposed of, ensued a general Bakhshish. -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-85">[85]</span> -Nothing of the kind had been contemplated or -prepared for at Zanzibar, but before leaving Unyanyembe, -I had found it necessary to offer an inducement, -and now the promise was to be fulfilled. Moreover, -most of the party had behaved badly, and in -these exceptional lands, bad behaviour always expects -a reward. In the first place, says the Oriental, no man -misconducts himself unless he has power to offend you -and you are powerless to punish him. Secondly, by -“petting” the offender, he may be bribed to conduct -himself decently. On the other hand, the Eastern -declares, by rewarding, praising, or promoting a man -who has already satisfied you, you do him no good, and -you may do him great harm. The boy Faraj, who -had shamelessly deserted his master, Said bin Salim, -was afterwards found at Unyanyembe, in Snay bin -Amir’s house, handsomely dressed and treated like a -guest; and his patron, forgetting all his stern resolves -of condign punishment, met him with a peculiar kindness. -I gave to the Baloch forty-five cloths, and to -each slave, male and female, a pair. The gratification, -however, proved somewhat like that man’s liberality -who, according to the old satirist, presented fine apparel -to those whom he wished to ruin. Our people recklessly -spent all their Bakhshish in buying slaves, who -generally deserted after a week, leaving the unhappy ex-proprietor -tantalised by all the torments of ungratified -acquisitiveness.</p> - -<p>At first the cold damp climate of the Lake Regions -did not agree with us; perhaps, too, the fish diet was -over-rich and fat, and the abundance of vegetables led -to little excesses. All energy seemed to have abandoned -us. I lay for a fortnight upon the earth, too blind to -read or write, except with long intervals, too weak to -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-86">[86]</span> -ride, and too ill to converse. My companion, who, when -arriving at the Tanganyika Lake was almost as “groggy” -upon his legs as I was, suffered from a painful ophthalmia, -and from a curious distortion of face, which made -him chew sideways, like a ruminant. Valentine was -nearly blind; and he also had a wry mouth, by no means -the properest for the process of mastication. Gaetano, who -arrived at Ujiji on the 17th February, was half-starved, -and his anxiety to make up for lost time brought on a -severe attack of fever. The Baloch complained of influenzas -and catarrhs: too lazy to build huts after occupying -Kannena’s “Traveller’s Bungalow” for the usual -week, they had been turned out in favour of fresh visitors, -and their tempers were as sore as their lungs and throats.</p> - -<p>But work remained undone; it was necessary to awake -from this lethargy. Being determined to explore the -northern extremity of the Tanganyika Lake, whence, -according to several informants, issued a large river, -flowing northwards, and seeing scanty chance of success, -and every prospect of an accident, if compelled -to voyage in the wretched canoes of the people, I at -first resolved to despatch Said bin Salim across the -water, and, by his intervention, to hire from an Arab -merchant, Hamid bin Sulayyam, the only dow, or sailing-craft -then in existence. But the little Arab -evidently shirked the mission, and he shirked so artistically, -that, after a few days, I released him, and directed -my companion to do his best about hiring the dow, -and stocking it with provisions for a month’s cruise.</p> - -<p>Then arose the preliminary difficulties of the trip. -Kannena and all his people, suspecting that my -only object was economy in purchasing provisions, -opposed the project; they demanded exorbitant sums, -and often when bargained down and apparently satisfied, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-87">[87]</span> -they started up and rushed away, declaring that -they washed their hands of the business. At length, -Lurinda, the neighbouring headman, was persuaded to -supply a Nakhoda and a crew of twenty men. An -Arab pays on these occasions, besides rations, ten per -cent. upon merchandise; the white men were compelled -to give four coil-bracelets and eight cloths for the -canoe; besides which, the crew received, as hire, six -coil-bracelets, and to each individual provisions for -eight days, and twenty khete of large blue-glass beads, -and small blue-porcelains were issued. After many -delays, my companion set out on the 2nd of March, in -the vilest weather, and spent the first stormy day near the -embouchure of the Ruche River, within cannon shot of -Kawele. This halt gave our persecutors time to change -their minds once more, and again to forbid the journey. -I was compelled to purchase their permission by sending -to Kannena an equivalent of what had been paid for -the canoe to Lurinda, viz. four coil-bracelets and eight -cloths. Two days afterwards my companion, supplied -with an ample outfit, and accompanied by two Baloch -and his men—Gaetano and Bombay—crossed the -bay of Ukaranga, and made his final departure for the -islands.</p> - -<p>During my twenty-seven days of solitude the time -sped quickly; it was chiefly spent in eating and drinking, -smoking and dozing. Awaking at 2 or 3 <span class="smcapall">A.M.</span>, I -lay anxiously expecting the grey light creeping through -the door-chinks and making darkness visible; the glad -tidings of its approach were announced by the cawing -of the crows and the crowing of the village cocks. -When the golden rays began to stream over the red -earth, the torpid Valentine was called up; he brought -with him a mess of Suji, or rice-flour boiled in water, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-88">[88]</span> -with a little cold milk as a relish. Then entered Muhabanya, -the “slavey” of the establishment, armed with -a leafy branch to sweep the floor, and to slay the huge -wasps that riddled the walls of the tenement. This -done he lit the fire—the excessive damp rendered this -precaution necessary—and sitting over it he bathed his -face and hands—luxurious dog!—in the pungent smoke. -Ensued visits of ceremony from Said bin Salim and the -Jemadar, who sat, stared, and, somewhat disappointed -at seeing no fresh symptoms of approaching dissolution, -told me so with their faces, and went away. From -7 <span class="smcapall">A.M.</span> till 9 <span class="smcapall">A.M.</span>, the breakfast hour, Valentine was -applied to tailoring, gun-cleaning, and similar light -work, over which he groaned and grumbled, whilst I -settled down to diaries and vocabularies, a process interrupted -by sundry pipes. Breakfast was again a mess -of Suji and milk,—such civilised articles as tea, coffee, -and sugar, had been unknown to me for months. Again -the servants resumed their labour, and they worked, -with the interval of two hours for sleep at noon, till 4 -<span class="smcapall">P.M.</span> During this time the owner lay like a log upon -his cot, smoking almost uninterruptedly, dreaming of -things past, and visioning things present, and sometimes -indulging himself in a few lines of reading and writing.</p> - -<p>Dinner was an alternation of fish and fowl, game and -butchers’ meat being rarely procurable at Ujiji. The -fish were in two extremes, either insipid and soft, or so -fat and coarse that a few mouthfuls sufficed; most of them -resembled the species seen in the seas of Western India, -and the eels and small shrimps recalled memories of -Europe. The poultry, though inferior to that of Unyanyembe, -was incomparably better than the lean stringy -Indian chicken. The vegetables were various and -plentiful, tomatoes, Jerusalem artichokes, sweet potatoes, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-89">[89]</span> -yams, and several kinds of beans, especially a -white harricot, which afforded many a <i>purée</i>; the -only fruit procurable was the plantain, and the only -drink—the toddy being a bad imitation of vinegar—was -water.</p> - -<p>As evening approached I made an attempt to sit under -the broad eaves of the Tembe, and to enjoy the delicious -spectacle of this virgin Nature, and the reveries -to which it gave birth.</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - -<div class="stanza"> -<span class="verse indent00">“A pleasing land of drowsihed it was,<br /></span> -<span class="verse indent2">Of dreams that wave before the half-shut eye,<br /></span> -<span class="verse indent0">And of gay castles in the clouds that pass,<br /></span> -<span class="verse indent2">For ever flushing round a summer sky.”<br /></span> -</div><!--stanza--> - -</div><!--poetry--> -</div><!--poetry-container--> - -<p>It reminded me of the loveliest glimpses of the Mediterranean; -there were the same “laughing tides,” pellucid -sheets of dark blue water, borrowing their tints -from the vinous shores beyond; the same purple light -of youth upon the cheek of the earlier evening, the same -bright sunsets, with their radiant vistas of crimson and -gold opening like the portals of a world beyond the skies; -the same short-lived grace and loveliness of the twilight; -and, as night closed over the earth, the same cool flood -of transparent moonbeam, pouring on the tufty heights -and bathing their sides with the whiteness of virgin -snow.</p> - -<p>At 7 <span class="smcapall">P.M.</span>, as the last flush faded from the occident, the -lamp—a wick in a broken pot full of palm oil—was -brought in; Said bin Salim appeared to give the news -of the day,—how A. had abused B., and how C. had -nearly been beaten by D., and a brief conversation led to -the hour of sleep. A dreary, dismal day, you will exclaim, -gentle reader; a day that</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - -<div class="stanza"> -<span class="verse indent3">“lasts out a night in Russia,<br /></span> -<span class="verse indent0">When nights are longest there.”<br /></span> -</div><!--stanza--> - -</div><!--poetry--> -</div><!--poetry-container--> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-90">[90]</span></p> - -<p class="noindent">Yet it had its enjoyments. There were no post-offices, -and this African Eden had other advantages, -which, probably, I might vainly attempt to -describe.</p> - -<p>On the 29th of March the rattling of matchlocks announced -my companion’s return. The Masika had -done its worst upon him. I never saw a man so -thoroughly moist and mildewed; he justified even -the French phrase “wet to the bone.” His paraphernalia -were in a similar state; his guns were grained -with rust, and his fire-proof powder-magazine had admitted -the monsoon-rain. I was sorely disappointed: -he had done literally nothing. About ten days before -his return I had been visited by Khamis bin Jumah, -an Arab merchant, who, on the part of the proprietor of -the dow, gave the gratifying message that we could have -it when we pleased. I cannot explain where the mismanagement -lay; it appears, however, that the wily “son -of Sulayyam” detained the traveller simply for the purpose -of obtaining from him gratis a little gunpowder. -My companion had rested content with the promise that -after three months the dow should be let to us for a sum -of 500 dollars! and he had returned without boat or provisions -to report ill success. The faces of Said bin Salim -and the Jemadar, when they heard the period mentioned, -were indeed a study. I consoled him and myself as I -best could, and applied myself to supplying certain deficiencies -as regards orthography and syntax in a diary -which appeared in Blackwood, of September 1859, -under the title “Journal of a Cruise in the Tanganyika -Lake, Central Africa.” I must confess, however, my surprise -at, amongst many other things, the vast horseshoe -of lofty mountain placed by my companion in the map -attached to that paper, near the very heart of Sir R. -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-91">[91]</span> -Murchison’s Depression. As this wholly hypothetical, -or rather inventive feature,—I had seen the mountains -growing upon paper under my companion’s hand, from -a thin ridge of hill fringing the Tanganyika to the portentous -dimensions given in Blackwood (Sept. 1859), -and Dr. Petermann’s Mittheilungen, (No. 9, of 1859,)—wore -a crescent form, my companion gravely published, -with all the pomp of discovery, in the largest capitals, -“This mountain range I consider to be <span class="smcapall">THE TRUE MOUNTAINS -OF THE MOON</span>.” * * * Thus men <i>do</i> geography! -and thus discovery is stultified.</p> - -<p>When my companion had somewhat recovered from his -wetness, and from the effects of punching-in with a pen-knife -a beetle which had visited his tympanum<a id="FNanchorii2"></a><a href="#Footnoteii2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a>, I began -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-92">[92]</span> -seriously to seek some means of exploring the northern -head of the Tanganyika. Hamid bin Sulayyam had -informed his late guest that he had visited the place, -where, although attacked by an armada of thirty or forty -hostile canoes, he had felt the influence of a large river, -which drains the water northwards: in fact, he told -the “lie with circumstance.” By a curious coincidence, -Sayfu, the Mswahili of Chole, declared that he also -had sighted a stream issuing from the northern extremity -of the lake—this was the “lie direct”—and he -offered to accompany me as guide and interpreter. -When we compared statements, we saw what was before -us,—a prize for which wealth, health, and life, were to -be risked.</p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnoteii2"></a><a href="#FNanchorii2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> -My companion gives in Blackwood, Sept. 1859, the following description -of his untoward accident:—“This day (that of his arrival at the isle -of Kivira) passed in rest and idleness, recruiting from our late exertions. -At night a violent storm of rain and wind beat on my tent with such fury -that its nether parts were torn away from the pegs, and the tent itself was -only kept upright by sheer force. On the wind’s abating, a candle was -lighted to rearrange the kit, and in a moment, as though by magic, the whole -interior became covered with a host of small black beetles, evidently attracted -by the glimmer of the candle. They were so annoyingly determined in their -choice of place for peregrinating, that it seemed hopeless my trying to brush -them off the clothes or bedding, for as one was knocked aside another came -on, and then another, till at last, worn out, I extinguished the candle, and -with difficulty—trying to overcome the tickling annoyance occasioned by -these intruders crawling up my sleeves and into my hair, or down my back -and legs—fell off to sleep. Repose that night was not destined to be my lot. -One of these horrid little insects awoke me in his struggles to penetrate my -ear, but just too late: for in my endeavour to extract him, I aided his immersion. -He went his course, struggling up the narrow channel, until he got -arrested by want of passage-room. This impediment evidently enraged him, -for he began with exceeding vigour, like a rabbit at a hole, to dig violently -away at my tympanum. The queer sensation this amusing <i>measure</i> excited -in me is past description. I felt inclined to act as our donkeys once did, -when beset by a swarm of bees, who buzzed about their ears and stung their -heads and eyes until they were so irritated and confused that they galloped -about in the most distracted order, trying to knock them off by treading on -their heads, or by rushing under bushes, into houses, or through any jungle -they could find. Indeed, I do not know which was worst off. The bees -killed some of them and this beetle nearly did for me. What to do I knew -not. Neither tobacco, oil, nor salt could be found: I therefore tried melted -butter; that failing, I applied the point of a pen-knife to his back, which did -more harm than good; for though a few thrusts kept him quiet, the point also -wounded my ear so badly, that inflammation set in, severe suppuration took -place, and all the facial glands extending from that point down to the point -of the shoulder became contorted and drawn aside, and a string of bubos decorated -the whole length of that region. It was the most painful thing I ever -remember to have endured; but, more annoying still, I could not open my -mouth for several days, and had to feed on broth alone. For many months -the tumour made me almost deaf, and ate a hole between that orifice and the -nose, so that when I blew it, my ear whistled so audibly that those who heard -it laughed. Six or seven months after this accident happened, bits of the -beetle, a leg, a wing, or parts of its body, came away in the wax.”</p> - -</div><!--footnote--> - -<p>It now became apparent that the Masika or rains, which -the Arabs, whose barbarous lunar year renders untrustworthy -in measurements of time, had erroneously represented -as synchronous with the wet monsoon of Zanzibar, -was drawing to a close, and that the season for navigation -was beginning.<a id="FNanchorii3"></a><a href="#Footnoteii3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> After some preliminaries with Said bin -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-93">[93]</span> -Salim, Kannena, who had been preparing for a cruise northwards, -was summoned before me. He agreed to convey -me; but when I asked him the conditions on which he -would show me the Mtoni, or river, he jumped up, discharged -a volley of oaths, and sprang from the house like -an enraged baboon. I was prepared for this difficulty, -having had several warnings that the tribes on the northern -shores of the Tanganyika allow no trade. But fears like -Kannena’s may generally be bought over. I trusted, -therefore, to Fate, and resolved that at all costs, even if -reduced to actual want, we should visit this mysterious -stream. At length the headman yielded every point. -He received, it is true, an exorbitant sum. Arabs visiting -Uvira, the “ultima thule” of lake navigation, pay -one cloth to each of the crew; and the fare of a single -passenger is a brace of coil-bracelets. For two canoes, -the larger sixty feet by four, and the lesser about two-thirds -that size, I paid thirty-three coil-bracelets, here -equal to sixty dollars, twenty cloths, thirty-six khete of -blue glass beads, and 770 ditto of white-porcelains and -green-glass. I also promised to Kannena a rich reward -if he acted up to his word; and as an earnest I threw -over his shoulders a six-foot length of scarlet broadcloth, -which caused his lips to tremble with joy, despite -his struggles to conceal it. The Nakhoda (captain) and -the crew in turn received, besides rations, eighty cloths, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-94">[94]</span> -170 khete of blue glass-beads, and forty of coral-porcelains, -locally three times more valuable than whites or -greens. Sayfu, the interpreter, was as extravagantly -paid in eight cloths and twenty-seven pounds of white -and blue-porcelains. After abundance of dispute it was -settled that the crews should consist of fifty-five men, -thirty-three to the larger and twenty-two to the smaller -canoe. It was an excess of at least one-half, who went -for their own profit, not for our pleasure. When this -point was conceded, we were kindly permitted to take -with us the two Goanese, the two black gun-carriers, and -three Baloch as an escort. The latter were the valiant -Khudabakhsh, whom I feared to leave behind; Jelai, the -mestiço-Mekrani; and, thirdly, Riza, the least mutinous -and uncivil of the party.</p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnoteii3"></a><a href="#FNanchorii3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> -Not unmindful of the instructions of the Bombay Geographical Society, -which called especial attention to the amount of rain-fall and evaporation in -a region, which abounding in lakes and rivers yet sends no supplies to the -sea, I had prepared, at Zanzibar, a dish and a gauge for the purpose of comparing -the hygrometry of the African with that of the Indian rainy monsoon. -The instruments, however, were fated to do no work. The first portion of -the Masika was spent in a journey; ensued severe sickness, and the end of -the rains happened during a voyage to the north of the Tanganyika. A -few scattered observations might have been registered, but it was judged -better to bring home no results, rather than imperfections which could only -mislead the meteorologist.</p> - -</div><!--footnote--> - -<p>Before departure it will be necessary to lay before the -reader a sketch of our conveyance. The first aspect -of these canoes made me lament the loss of Mr. Francis’ -iron boat: regrets, however, were of no avail. <i>Quocumque -modo—rem!</i> was the word.</p> - -<p>The Baumrinden are unknown upon the Tanganyika -Lake, where the smaller craft are monoxyles, generally -damaged in the bow by the fishermen’s fire. The larger -are long, narrow “matumbi,” or canoes, rudely hollowed -with the axe—the application of fire being still to be -invented,—in fact, a mere log of mvule, or some -other large tree which abound in the land of the Wagoma, -opposite Ujiji. The trunks are felled, scooped -out in loco, dragged and pushed by man-power down -the slopes, and finally launched and paddled over to -their destination. The most considerable are composed -of three parts—clumsy, misshapen planks, forming, -when placed side by side, a keel and two gunwales, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-95">[95]</span> -the latter fastened to the centre-piece by cords of -palm-fibre passing through lines of holes. The want of -caulking causes excessive leakage: the crew take duty -as balesmen in turns. The cry Senga!—bale out!—rarely -ceases, and the irregular hollowing of the tree-trunks -makes them lie lopsided in the water. These -vessels have neither masts nor sails; artifices which now -do not extend to this part of the African world. An iron -ring, fixed in the stern, is intended for a rudder, which, -however, seldom appears except in the canoes of the -Arabs, steering is managed by the paddle, and a flag-staff -or a fishing-rod projects jib-like from the bow. Layers -of palm-ribs, which serve for fuel, are strewed over the -interior to raise the damageable cargo—it is often of salt—above -the bilge-water. The crew sit upon narrow -benches, extending across the canoe and fastened with -cords to holes in the two side-pieces; upon each bench, -despite the narrowness of the craft, two men place -themselves side by side. The “Karagwah,” stout stiff -mats used for hutting and bedding, are spread for -comfort upon the seats; and for convenience of paddling, -the sailors, when at work, incline their bodies -over the sides. The space under the seats is used for -stowage. In the centre there is a square place, about -six feet long, left clear of benches; here also cargo -is stored, passengers, cattle, and slaves litter down, the -paddles, gourds, and other furniture of the crew are -thrown, and the baling is carried on by means of an old -gourd. The hold is often ankle-deep in water, and affords -no convenience for leaning or lying down; the most -comfortable place, therefore, is near the stern or the -bow of the boat. The spears are planted upright amidships, -at one or two corners of the central space so as -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-96">[96]</span> -to be ready at a moment’s notice; each man usually -has his dagger stuck in his belt, and on long trips all are -provided with bows and arrows. These Africans cannot -row; indeed they will not use oars. The paddle on the -Tanganyika is a stout staff, about six feet long, and cut -out at the top to admit a trefoil-shaped block the size of -a man’s hand:—it was described in South Africa by Captain -Owen. The block, adorned with black paint in -triangular patches, is lashed to the staff by a bit of whipcord, -and it seldom lasts through the day without breaking -away from its frail tackling. The paddler, placing one -hand on the top and the other about the middle of the -staff, scoops up as it were, the water in front of him, -steadying his paddle by drawing it along the side of the -canoe. The eternal splashing keeps the boat wet. It -is a laborious occupation, and an excessive waste of -power.</p> - -<p>The Lake People derive their modern practice of navigation, -doubtless, from days of old; the earliest accounts -of the Portuguese mention the traffic of this inland sea. -They have three principal beats from Ujiji: the northern -abuts at the ivory and slave marts of Uvira; the western -conducts to the opposite shores of the Lake and the island -depôts on the south-west; and the southern leads to the -land of Marunga. Their canoes creep along the shores -like the hollowed elders of thirty bygone centuries, and, -waiting till the weather augurs fairly, they make a desperate -push for the other side. Nothing but their extreme -timidity, except when emboldened by the prospect -of a speedy return home, preserves their cranky craft from -constant accidents. The Arabs, warned by the past, -rarely trust themselves to this Lake of Storms, preferring -the certain peculation incurred by deputing for trading -purposes agents and slaves to personal risk. Those who -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-97">[97]</span> -must voyage on the lake build, by means of their menials -and artisans, dows, or sailing-vessels, and teach their -newly-bought gangs to use oars instead of paddles. This -is rather an economy of money than of time: they expend -six months upon making the dow, whereas they can -buy the largest canoe for a few farasilah of ivory.</p> - -<p>As my outfit was already running low, I persuaded, -before departure, two of the Baloch to return with a -down-caravan westwards, and arrived at Unyanyembe, -to communicate personally with my agent, Snay bin -Amir. They agreed so to do, but the Mtongi, or -head of the African kafilah, with true African futility, -promised to take them on the next day, and set -out that night on his journey. As Said bin Majid -was about despatching a large armed party to the north -of the Lake, I then hurried on my preparations for the -voyage. Provisions and tobacco were laid in, the tent -was repaired, and our outfit, four half loads of salt—of -these two were melted in the canoe, six Gorah,—or one -load of domestics, nine coil-bracelets, the remainder of -our store, one load of blue porcelain beads, and a small -bag of the valuable red coral intended for private expenses, -and “El Akibah” (the reserve), was properly -packed for concealment. Meanwhile some trifling disputes -occurred with Kannena, who was in the habit of -coming to our Tembe, drunk and surly, with eyes like -two gouts of blood, knitted front, and lips viciously shot -out: when contradicted or opposed, he screamed and -gesticulated as if haunted by his P’hepo,—his fiend;—and -when very evilly disposed, he would proceed to the extreme -measure of cutting down a tent. This slave-sultan -was a “son of noise:” he affected <i>brusquerie</i> of manner -and violence of demeanour the better to impressionise -his unruly subjects; and he frightened the timid souls -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-98">[98]</span> -around us, till at last the Jemadar’s phrase was, -“strength is useless here.” Had I led, however, three -hundred instead of thirty matchlocks, he would have -crouched and cowered like a whipped cur.</p> - -<p>At 4 <span class="smcapall">P.M.</span>, on the 9th April, appeared before the -Kannena in a tattered red turban donned for the occasion. -He was accompanied by his ward, who was -to perform the voyage as a training to act sultan, and -he was followed by his sailors bearing salt, in company -with their loud-voiced wives and daughters performing -upon the wildest musical instruments. Of these the -most noisy was a kind of shaum, a straight, long and -narrow tube of wood, bound with palm-fibre and provided -with an opening mouth like a clarionet; a distressing -bray is kept up by blowing through a hole -pierced in the side. The most monotonous was a pair of -foolscap-shaped plates of thin iron, joined at the apices and -connected at the bases by a solid cross-bar of the same -metal; this rude tomtom is performed upon by a muffled -stick with painful perseverance; the sound—how harshly -it intruded upon the stilly beauty of the scenes around!—still -lingers and long shall linger in my tympanum. -The canoe had been moved from its usual position opposite -our Tembe, to a place of known departure—otherwise -not a soul could have been persuaded to embark—and -ignoring the distance, I condemned myself to a hobble of -three miles over rough and wet ground. The night was -comfortless; the crew, who were all “half-seas over,” -made the noise of bedlamites; and two heavy falls of -rain drenching the flimsy tent, at once spoiled the -tobacco and flour, the grain and the vegetables prepared -for the voyage.</p> - -<p>Early on the next morning we embarked on board -the canoes: the crews had been collected, paid, and -rationed, but as long as they were near home it was -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-99">[99]</span> -impossible to keep them together. Each man thinking -solely of his own affairs, and disdaining the slightest -regard for the wishes, the comfort, or the advantage of -his employers, they objected systematically to every -article which I had embarked. Kannena had filled the -canoes with his and his people’s salt, consequently he -would not carry even a cartel. Various points settled -we hove anchor or rather hauled up the block of granite -doing anchoral duty, and with the usual hubbub and strife, -the orders which every man gives and the advice which -no man takes, we paddled in half an hour to a shingly -and grassy creek, defended by a sandpit and backed by -a few tall massive trees. Opposite and but a few yards -distant, rose the desert islet of Bangwe, a quoin-shaped -mass of sandstone and red earth, bluff to the north and -gradually shelving towards the water at the other -extremity: the prolific moisture above and around had -covered its upper ledge with a coat of rich thick vegetation. -Landward the country rises above the creek, -and upon its earth-waves, which cultivation shares with -wild growth, appear a few scattered hamlets.</p> - -<p>Boats generally waste some days at Bangwe Bay, the -stage being short enough for the usual scene being encored. -They load and reload, trim cargo, complete rations, -collect crews, and take leave of friends and relatives, -women, and palm-wine. We pitched a tent and halted -in a tornado of wind and rain. Kannena would not -move without the present of one of our three goats. -At 4 <span class="smcapall">P.M.</span>, on the 11th April, the canoes were laden -and paddled out to and back from Bangwe islet, when -those knowing in such matters pronounced them so -heavily weighted as to be unsafe: whereupon, the -youth Riza, sorely against my will, was sent back to the -Kawele. On that night a furious gale carried away my -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-100">[100]</span> -tent, whilst the Goanese were, or pretended to be, out of -hearing. I slept, however, comfortably enough upon the -crest of a sand-wave higher than the puddles around -it, and—blessings on the name of Mackintosh!—escaped -the pitiless pelting of the rain.</p> - -<p>The next morning showed a calm sea, levelled by the -showers, and no pretext or desire for longer detention -lingered in the hearts of the crew. At 7·20 <span class="smcapall">A.M.</span>, on -the 12th April, 1858, my canoe—bearing for the first -time on those dark <span class="nowrap">waters—</span></p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - -<div class="stanza"> -<span class="verse indent00">“The flag that braved a thousand years<br /></span> -<span class="verse indent2">The battle and the breeze,”<br /></span> -</div><!--stanza--> - -</div><!--poetry--> -</div><!--poetry-container--> - -<p class="noindent">stood out of Bangwe Bay, and followed by my companion’s -turned the landspit separating the bight from the -main, and made directly for the cloudy and storm-vexed -north. The eastern shore of the lake, along which we -coasted, was a bluff of red earth pudding’d with separate -blocks of sandstone. Beyond this headland the coast -dips, showing lines of shingle or golden-coloured -quartzose sand, and on the shelving plain appear the -little fishing-villages. They are usually built at the -mouths of the gaps, combes, and gullies, whose deep -gorges winding through the background of hill-curtain, -become, after rains, the beds of mountain-torrents. The -wretched settlements are placed between the tree clad -declivities and the shore on which the waves break. The -sites are far from comfortable: the ground is here veiled -with thick and fetid grass; there it is a puddle of black -mud, and there a rivulet trickles through the villages. -The hamlet consists of half a dozen beehive-huts, foul, -flimsy, and leaky; their only furniture is a hearth of -three clods or stones, with a few mats and fishing implements. -The settlements are distinguished from a -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-101">[101]</span> -distance by their plantations of palm and plantain, and -by large spreading trees, from whose branches are suspended -the hoops and the drag-nets not in actual use, -and under whose shade the people sit propped against -their monoxyles, which are drawn high up out of danger -of the surf. There was no trade, and few provisions were -procurable at Kigari. We halted there to rest, and pitching -a tent in the thick grass we spent a night loud with -wind and rain.</p> - -<p>Rising at black dawn on the 13th April, the crews -rowed hard for six hours between Kigari and another -dirty little fishing-village called Nyasanga. The settlement -supplied fish-fry, but neither grain nor vegetables -were offered for sale. At this place, the frontier -district between Ujiji and Urundi, our Wajiji took leave -of their fellow-clansmen and prepared with serious -countenances for all the perils of expatriation.</p> - -<p>This is the place for a few words concerning boating -and voyaging upon the Tanganyika Lakes. The Wajiji, -and indeed all these races, never work silently or regularly. -The paddling is accompanied by a long monotonous -melancholy howl, answered by the yells and -shouts of the chorus, and broken occasionally by a shrill -scream of delight from the boys which seems violently to -excite the adults. The bray and clang of the horns, -shaums, and tomtoms, blown and banged incessantly -by one or more men in the bow of each canoe, made -worse by brazen-lunged imitations of these instruments -in the squeaking trebles of the younger paddlers, -lasts throughout the livelong day, except when terror -induces a general silence. These “Wáná Máji”—sons -of water—work in “spirts,” applying lustily to -the task till the perspiration pours down their sooty -persons. Despite my remonstrances, they insisted upon -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-102">[102]</span> -splashing the water in shovelsful over the canoe. -They make terribly long faces, however, they tremble -like dogs in a storm of sleet, and they are ready to -whimper when compelled by sickness or accident to sit -with me under the endless cold wave-bath in the hold. -After a few minutes of exertion, fatigued and worn, -they stop to quarrel, or they progress languidly till -recruited for another effort. When two boats are -together they race continually till a bump—the signal for -a general grin—and the difficulty of using the entangled -paddles afford an excuse for a little loitering, and for the -loud chatter, and violent abuse, without which apparently -this people cannot hold converse. At times -they halt to eat, drink, and smoke: the bhang-pipe is -produced after every hour, and the paddles are taken -in whilst they indulge in the usual screaming convulsive -whooping-cough. They halt for their own purposes -but not for ours; all powers of persuasion fail when -they are requested to put into a likely place for collecting -shells or stones.<a id="FNanchorii4"></a><a href="#Footnoteii4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> For some superstitious reason -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-103">[103]</span> -they allow no questions to be asked, they will not dip -a pot for water into the lake, fearing to be followed -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-104">[104]</span> -and perhaps boarded by crocodiles, which are hated -and dreaded by these black navigators, much as is the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-105">[105]</span> -shark by our seamen, and for the same cause not a -scrap of food must be thrown overboard—even the offal -must be cast into the hold. “Whittling” is here a -mortal sin: to chip or break off the smallest bit of -even a condemned old tub drawn up on the beach causes -a serious disturbance. By the advice of a kind and -amiable friend<a id="FNanchorii5"></a><a href="#Footnoteii5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a>, I had supplied myself with the desiderata -for sounding and ascertaining the bottom of the -Lake: the crew would have seen me under water rather -than halt for a moment when it did not suit their purpose. -The wild men lose half an hour, when time is most -precious, to secure a dead fish as it floats past the canoe -entangled in its net. They never pass a village without -a dispute; some wishing to land, others objecting because -some wish it. The captain, who occupies some -comfortable place in the bow, stern, or waist, has little -authority; and if the canoe be allowed to touch the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-106">[106]</span> -shore, its men will spring out without an idea of consulting -aught beyond their own inclinations. Arrived -at the halting-place they pour on shore; some proceed -to gather firewood, others go in search of rations, and -others raise the boothies. A dozen barked sticks of -various lengths are planted firmly in the ground; -the ends are bent and lashed together in the shape of -half an orange, by strips of tree-fibre; they are then -covered with the karagwah—the stiff-reed mats used as -cushions when paddling—these are tightly bound on, and -thus a hut is made capable of defending from rain the -bodies of four or five men whose legs which project -beyond the shelter are apparently not supposed to require -covering. Obeying only impulse, and wholly -deficient in order and purpose, they make the voyage as -uncomfortable as possible; they have no regular stages -and no fixed halting-places; they waste a fine cool -morning, and pull through the heat of the day, or after -dozing throughout the evening, at the loud cry of -“Pakírá Bábá!”—pack up, hearties!—they scramble -into their canoes about midnight. Outward-bound -they seek opportunities for delay; when it is once “up -anchor for home,” they hurry with dangerous haste.</p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnoteii4"></a><a href="#FNanchorii4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a></p> - -<p class="hind02"><span class="smcap">The following Paper by S. P. Woodward, F.G.S., communicated by -Prof. Owen, appeared in the Proceedings of the Zoological Society -of London, June 28, 1859.</span></p> - -<p>The four shells which form the subject of the present note were collected -by Captain Speke in the great freshwater lake Tanganyika in Central -Africa.</p> - -<p>The large bivalve belongs to the genus <i>Iridina</i>, Lamarck,—a group of -river mussels, of which there are nine reputed species, all belonging to the -African continent. This little group has been divided into several sub-genera. -That to which the new shell belongs is distinguished by its broad and deeply-wrinkled -hinge-line, and is called <i>Pleiodon</i> by Conrad. The posterior slope -of this shell is encrusted with tufa, as if there were limestone rocks in the -vicinity of its habitat.</p> - -<p>The small bivalve is a normal <i>Unio</i>, with finely sculptured valves.</p> - -<p>The smaller univalve is concave beneath, and so much resembles a <i>Nerita</i> -or <i>Calyptræa</i> that it would be taken for a sea-shell if its history were not well -authenticated. It agrees essentially with <i>Lithoglyphus</i>,—a genus peculiar -to the Danube; for the American shells referred to it are probably, or, I may -say, certainly distinct. It agrees with the Danubian shells in the extreme -obliquity of the aperture, and differs in the width of the umbilicus, which in -the European species is nearly concealed by the callous columellar lip.</p> - -<p>In the Upper Eocene Tertiaries of the Isle of Wight there are several -estuary shells, forming the genus <i>Globulus</i>, Sow., whose affinities are uncertain, -but which resemble <i>Lithoglyphus</i>.</p> - -<p>The lake Tanganyika (situated in lat. 3° to 8° S. and long. 30° E.), which -is several hundred miles in length and 30 to 40 in breadth, seems entirely -disconnected with the region of the Danube: but the separation may not always -have been so complete, for there is another great lake, Nyanza, to the -northward of Tanganyika, which is believed by Speke to be the principal -source of the Nile.</p> - -<p>The other univalve is a <i>Melania</i>, of the sub-genus <i>Melanella</i> (Swainson), -similar in shape to <i>M. hollandi</i> of S. Europe, and similar to several Eocene -species of the Isle of Wight. Its colour, solidity, and tuberculated ribs give -it much the appearance of a small marine whelk (<i>Nassa</i>); and it is found in -more boisterous waters, on the shores of this great inland sea, than most of -its congeners inhabit.</p> - -<p>1. <span class="smcap">Iridina (Pleiodon) Spekii</span>, n. sp. (Pl. XLVII. fig. 2.)</p> - -<p>Shell oblong, ventricose, somewhat attenuated at each end: base slightly -concave; epidermis chestnut brown, deepening to black at the margin; anterior -slope obscurely radiated; hinge-line compressed in front and tuberculated, -wider behind and deeply wrinkled.</p> - -<p>Length 4<sup>3</sup>⁄<sub>4</sub>, breadth 2, thickness 1<sup>3</sup>⁄<sub>4</sub> inches.</p> - -<p class="hind24"><i>Testa oblonga, tumida, extremitatibus fere attenuata, basi subarcuata; epidermide -castaneo-fusca, marginem versus nigricante; linea cardinali antice -compressa tuberculata, postice latiore, paucis rugis arata.</i></p> - -<p>2. <span class="smcap">Unio Burtoni</span>, n. sp. (Pl. XLVII. fig. 1.)</p> - -<p>Shell small, oval, rather thin, somewhat pointed behind; umbones small, -not eroded; pale olive, concentrically furrowed, and sculptured more or less -with fine divaricating lines; anterior teeth narrow, not prominent; posterior -teeth laminar; pedal scar confluent with anterior adductor.</p> - -<p>Length 12, breadth 8<sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>2</sub>, thickness 5<sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>2</sub> lines.</p> - -<p class="hind24"><i>Testa parva, ovalis, tenuiuscula, postice subattenuata; umbonibus parvis, -acuminatis; epidermide pallide olivacea; valvis lineolis divaricatis, decussatum -exaratis; dentibus cardinalibus angustis, haud prominentibus.</i></p> - -<p>3. <span class="smcap">Lithoglyphus zonatus</span>, n. sp. (Pl. XLVII. fig. 3.)</p> - -<p>Shell orbicular, hemispherical; spire very small; aperture large, very oblique; -umbilicus wide and shallow, with an open fissure in the young shell; -lip continuous in front with the umbilical ridge; columella callous, ultimately -covering the fissure; body-whirl flattened, pale olivaceous, with two brown -bands, darker at the apex; lines of growth crossed by numerous oblique, -interrupted striæ.</p> - -<p>Diameter 5-6, height 3 lines.</p> - -<p class="hind24"><i>Testa orbicularis, hemisphærica, late umbilicata (apud juniores rimata), spira -minuta; apertura magna, valde obliqua; labio calloso (in testa adulta rimam -tegente); pallide olivacea, fasciis duabus fuscis zonata; lineis incrementi -striolis interruptis oblique decussatis.</i></p> - -<p>4. <span class="smcap">Melania (Melanella) nassa</span>, n. sp. (Pl. XLVII. fig. 4.)</p> - -<p>Shell ovate, strong, pale brown, with (sometimes) two dark bands; spire -shorter than the aperture; whirls flattened, ornamented with six brown spiral -ridges crossed with a variable number of white, tuberculated, transverse -ribs; base of body-whirl eight with tuberculated spiral ridges variegated -with white and brown; aperture sinuated in front; outer lip simple; inner -lip callous.</p> - -<p>Length 8<sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>2</sub>, breadth 5<sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>2</sub> lines.</p> - -<p class="hind24"><i>Testa ovata, solida, pallide fusca, zonis 2 nigricantibus aliquando notata; -spira apertura breviore; anfractibus planulatis, lineis 6 fuscis spiralibus et -costis tuberculatis ornatis; apertura antice sinuata; labro simplici; labio -calloso.</i></p> - -<p>P.S. July 27th.—In addition to the foregoing shells, several others were -collected by Capt. Speke, when employed, under the command of Capt. -Burton, in exploring Central Africa in the years 1856-9; these were deposited -in the first instance with the Geographical Society, and are now transferred -to the British Museum.</p> - -<p>A specimen of <i>Ampullaria (Lanistes) sinistrorsa</i>, Lea, and odd valves of -two species of <i>Unio</i>, both smooth and olive-coloured, were picked up in the -Ugogo district, an elevated plateau in lat. 6° to 7° S., long. 34° to 35° E.</p> - -<p>A large <i>Achatina</i>, most nearly related to <i>A. glutinosa</i>, Pfr., is the “common -snail” of the region between lake Tanganyika and the east coast. -Fossil specimens were obtained in the Usagara district, at a place called -Marora, 3000 feet above the sea, overlooking the Lufiji River, where it intersects -the coast range (lat. 7° to 8° S., long. 36° to 36° E.).</p> - -<p>Another common land snail of the same district is the well known “<i>Bulimus -caillaudi</i>, Pfr.,” a shell more nearly related to <i>Achatina</i> than <i>Bulimus</i>.</p> - -<p>Captain Speke also found a solitary example of <i>Bulimus ovoideus</i>, Brug., -in a musjid on the island of Kiloa (lat. 9° S., long. 39° to 40° E.). This -species is identical with <i>B. grandis</i>, Desh., from the island of Nosse Bé, -Madagascar, and very closely allied to <i>B. liberianus</i>, Lea, from Guinea.</p> - -<p><a id="Footnoteii5"></a><a href="#FNanchorii5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> -Captain Balfour, H.M.I.N., who kindly supplied me with a list of necessaries -for sail-making and other such operations on the Lake. I had indented -upon the Engineers’ Stores, Bombay, for a Massey’s patent or self-registering -log, which would have been most useful had the people allowed it -to be used. Prevented by stress of business from testing it in India, I found -it at sea so thoroughly defective, that it was returned from whence it came by -the good aid of Captain Frushard, then commanding the H.E.I.C.’s sloop of -war <i>Elphinstone</i>. I then prepared at Zanzibar, a line and a lead, properly -hollowed to admit of its being armed, and this safely reached the Tanganyika -Lake. It was not useless but unused: the crew objected to its being -hove, and moreover—lead and metal are never safe in Central Africa—the line, -which was originally short, was curtailed of one half during the first night -after our departure from Kawele. It is by no means easy to estimate the -rate of progress in these barbarous canoes barbarously worked. During the -“spirts” when the paddler bends his back manfully to his task, a fully-manned -craft may attain a maximum of 7 to 8 miles per hour: this exertion, -however, rarely exceeds a quarter of an hour, and is always followed by delay. -The usual pace, when all are fresh and cool, is about 4 to 5 miles, which declines -through 4 and 3 to 2<sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>2</sub>, when the men are fatigued, or when the sun is -high. The medium, therefore, may be assumed at 4 miles for short, and a -little more than 2 miles an hour for long trips, halts deducted.</p> - -</div><!--footnote--> - -<p>On the 14th April, a cruise of four hours conducted -us to Wafanya, a settlement of Wajiji mixed with -Warundi. Leaving this wretched mass of hovels on the -next day, which began with a solemn warning from -Sayfu—a man of melancholic temperament—we made -in four hours Wafanya, the southern limit of Urundi, -and the only port in that inhospitable land still open to -travellers. Drawing up our canoes upon a clear narrow -sandstrip beyond the reach of the surf, we ascended a -dwarf earth-cliff, and pitching our tents under a spreading -tree upon the summit, we made ourselves as comfortable -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-107">[107]</span> -as the noisy, intrusive, and insolent crowd, assembled -to stare and to laugh at the strangers, would -permit. The crew raised their boothies within a stone-throw -of the water, flight being here the thought ever -uppermost in their minds.</p> - -<p>The people of this country are a noisy insolent race, -addicted, like all their Lakist brethren, to drunkenness, -and, when drunk, quarrelsome and violent. At Wafanya, -however, they are kept in order by Kanoni, their mutware -or minor chief, subject to “Mwezi,” the mwami or -sultan of Urundi. The old man appeared, when we -reached his settlement, in some state, preceded by an -ancient carrying his standard, a long wisp of white fibre -attached to a spear, like the Turkish “horse-tail,” and -followed by a guard of forty or fifty stalwart young warriors -armed with stout lance-like spears for stabbing and -throwing, straight double-edged daggers, stiff bows, and -heavy, grinded arrows. Kanoni began by receiving -his black-mail—four cloths, two coil-bracelets, and three -fundo of coral beads: the return was the inevitable -goat. The climate of Wafanya is alternately a damp-cold -and a “muggy” heat; the crews, however, if -numerous and well armed, will delay here to feed when -northward bound, and to lay in provisions when returning -to their homes. Sheep and fine fat goats vary in -value from one to two cloths; a fowl, or five to six eggs, -costs a khete of beads; sweet potatoes are somewhat -dearer than at Ujiji; there is no rice, but holcus and -manioc are cheap and abundant, about 5 lbs. of the -latter being sold for a single khete. Even milk is at -times procurable. A sharp business is carried on in -chikichi or palm-oil, of which a large earthen pot is -bought for a cloth; the best paddles used by the crews -are made at Wafanya; and the mbugu, or bark-cloth, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-108">[108]</span> -is bought for four to ten khete, about one third of the -market-price at Ujiji. Salt, being imported from -Uvinza, is dear and scarce: it forms the first demand -for barter, and beads the second. Large fish is offered -for sale, but the small fry is the only article of the kind -which is to be purchased fresh. The country owes its -plenty, according to the guides, to almost perennial -showers.</p> - -<p>The inhospitality of the Warundi and their northern -neighbours, who would plunder a canoe or insist upon -a black-mail equivalent to plunder, allows neither traffic -nor transit to the north of Wafanya. Here, therefore, -the crews prepare to cross the Tanganyika, which is -divided into two stages by the island of Ubwari.</p> - -<p>In Ubwari I had indeed discovered “an island -far away.” It is probably the place alluded to by -the Portuguese historian, De Barros, in this important -passage concerning the great lake in the centre of -Africa: “It is a sea of such magnitude as to be capable -of being navigated by many sail; and among the islands -in it there is one capable of sending forth an army of -30,000 men.” Ubwari appears from a distance of two days -bearing north-west; it is then somewhat hazy, owing to -the extreme humidity of the atmosphere. From Wafanya -it shows a clear profile about eighteen to twenty -miles westward, and the breadth of the western channel -between it and the mainland averages from six to seven -miles. Its north point lies in south lat. 4° 7′, and the lay -is N. 17° E. (corrected). From the northern point of -Ubwari the eastern prolongation of the lake bears N. -3° W. and the western N. 10° W. It is the only -island near the centre of the Tanganyika—a long, -narrow lump of rock, twenty to twenty-five geographical -miles long, by four or five of extreme -breadth, with a high longitudinal spine, like a hog’s -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-109">[109]</span> -back, falling towards the water—here shelving, -there steep, on the sea-side—where it ends in abrupt -cliffs, here and there broken by broad or narrow -gorges. Green from head to foot, in richness and profuseness -of vegetation it equals, and perhaps excels, the -shores of the Tanganyika, and in parts it appears carefully -cultivated. Mariners dare not disembark on -Ubwari, except at the principal places; and upon the -wooded hill-sides wild men are, or are supposed to be, -ever lurking in wait for human prey.</p> - -<p>We halted two miserable days at Wafanya. The -country is peculiarly rich, dotted with numerous hamlets, -which supply provisions, and even milk, and divided -into dense thickets, palm-groves, and large clearings -of manioc, holcus, and sweet potatoes, which -mantle like a garment the earth’s brown body. Here -we found Kannena snugly ensconced in our sepoy’s pal, -or ridge-tent. He had privily obtained it from Said -bin Salim, with a view to add to his and his ward’s -comfort and dignity. When asked to give it up—we were -lodging, I under a lug-sail, brought from the coast -and converted into an awning, and my companion in -the wretched flimsy article purchased from the Fundi—he -naively refused. Presently having seen a fat sheep, he -came to me declaring that it was his perquisite: moreover, -he insisted upon receiving the goat offered to us by -the Sultan Kanoni. I at first demurred. His satisfactory -rejoinder was: “Ngema, ndugu yango!—Well, -my brother,—here we remain!” I consulted -Bombay about the necessity of humouring him in every -whim. “What these jungle-niggers want,” quoth my -counsel, “that they will have, or they will see the -next month’s new moon!”</p> - -<p>The morning of the 18th April was dark and menacing. -Huge purpling clouds deformed the face of the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-110">[110]</span> -northern sky. Having loaded the canoes, however, -we embarked to cross the channel which separated us -from the Ubwari island. As the paddles were in hand, -the crew, starting up from their benches, landed to bring -on board some forgotten manioc. My companion remained -in his boat, I in mine. Presently, hearing an -unusual uproar, I turned round and saw the sailors -arming themselves, whilst the “curtain-lion,” Khudabakhsh, -was being hustled with blows, and pushed up -the little cliff by a host of black spearmen; a naked -savage the while capering about, waving the Baloch’s -bare blade in one hand and its scabbard in the other. -Kannena joined majestically in the “row,” but the -peals of laughter from the mob showed no signs -of anger. A Mjiji slave, belonging to Khudabakhsh -had, it appears, taken flight, after landing -unobserved with the crowd. The brave had redemanded -him of Kannena, whom he charged, moreover, with aiding -and abetting the desertion. The slave Sultan offered -to refer the point to me, but the valiant man, losing -patience, out with his sword, and was instantly disarmed, -assaulted, and battered, as above described, by -forty or fifty sailors. When quiet was restored, I -called to him from the boat. He replied by refusing to -“budge an inch,” and by summoning his “brother” -Jelai to join him with bag and baggage. Kannena -also used soft words, till at last, weary of waiting, he -gave orders to put off, throwing two cloths to Khudabakhsh, -that the fellow might not return home hungry. -I admired his generosity till compelled to pay for it.</p> - -<p>The two Baloch were like mules; they disliked the -voyage, and as it was the Ramazan, they added to their -discomforts by pretending to fast. Their desertion was inexcusable; -they left us wholly in the power of the Wajiji, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-111">[111]</span> -to dangers and difficulties which they themselves could not -endure. Prudent Orientals, I may again observe, never -commit themselves to the sole custody of Africans, even of -the “Muwallid,” namely those born and bred in their -houses. In Persia the traveller is careful to mix the -black blood with that of the higher race; formerly, -whenever the member of a family was found murdered, -the serviles were all tortured as a preliminary to investigation, -and many stories, like the following, are recounted. -The slaves had left their master in complete -security, and were sitting, in early night, merrily chatting -round the camp fire. Presently one began to -relate the list of their grievances; another proposed to -end them by desertion; and a third seconded the motion, -opining, however, that they might as well begin by -murdering the patroon. No sooner said than done. -These children of passion and instinct, in the shortest -interim, act out the “dreadful thing,” and as readily -repent when reflection returns. The Arab, therefore, -in African lands, seldom travels with Africans only; he -prefers collecting as many companions, and bringing as -many hangers on as he can afford. The best escort to -a European capable of communicating with and commanding -them, would be a small party of Arabs fresh -from Hazramaut and untaught in the ways and tongues -of Africa. They would by forming a kind of balance of -power, prevent that daring pilfering for which slaves are -infamous; in the long run they would save money to -the explorer, and perhaps save his life.</p> - -<p>Khudabakhsh and his comrade-deserter returned -safely by land to Kawele; and when derided by the other -men, he repeated, as might be expected, notable griefs. -Both had performed prodigies of valour; they had -however been mastered by millions. Then they had -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-112">[112]</span> -called upon “Haji Abdullah” for assistance, to which -he had replied “My power does not extend here!” Thus -heartlessly refused aid by the only person who could -and should have afforded it, they were reduced, sorely -against their will, to take leave of him. Their tale was -of course believed by their comrades, till the crews -brought back the other version of the affair, the “camel-hearts” -then once more became the laugh and jibe of -man and woman.</p> - -<p>After a short consultation amongst the men concerning -the threatening aspect of the heavens, it was agreed -by them to defer crossing the Lake till the next day. -We therefore passed on to the northern side of the -point which limits the bay of Wafanya, and anchoring -the craft in a rushy bayou, we pitched tents in time to -protect us against a violent thunderstorm with its -wind and rain.</p> - -<p>On the 19th April we stretched westward, towards -Ubwari, which appeared a long strip of green directly -opposite Urundi, and distant from eighteen to twenty -miles. A little wind caused a heavy chopping swell; -we were wet to the skin, and as noon drew nigh, the sun -shone stingingly, reflected by a mirrory sea. At 10 <span class="smcapall">A.M.</span> -the party drew in their paddles and halted to eat -and smoke. About 2 <span class="smcapall">P.M.</span> the wind and waves again -arose,—once more we were drenched, and the frail -craft was constantly baled out to prevent water-logging. -A long row of nine hours placed the canoes at a roadstead, -with the usual narrow line of yellow sand, on the -western coast of Ubwari Island. The men landed to -dry themselves, and to cook some putrid fish which they -had caught as it floated past the canoe, with the reed -triangle that buoyed up the net. It was “strong -meat” to us, but to them its staleness was as the “taste -in his butter,” to the Londoner, the pleasing toughness -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-113">[113]</span> -of the old cock to the Arab, and the savoury “fumet” -of the aged he-goat to the Baloch. After a short halt, -we moved a little northwards to Mzimu, a strip of -low land dividing the waters from their background of -grassy rise, through which a swampy line winds from -the hills above. Here we found canoes drawn up, and -the islanders flocked from their hamlets to change their -ivory and slaves, goats and provisions, for salt and beads, -wire and cloth. The Wabwari are a peculiar, and by -no means a comely race. The men are habited in the -usual mbugu, tigered with black stripes, and tailed -like leopard-skins: a wisp of fine grass acts as fillet, and -their waists, wrists, and ankles, their knob-sticks, spears, -and daggers, are bound with rattan-bark, instead of the -usual wire. The women train their frizzly locks into -two side-bits resembling bear’s ears; they tie down the -bosom with a cord, apparently for the purpose of distorting -nature in a way that is most repulsive to European -eyes; and they clothe themselves with the barbarous -goat-skin, or the scantiest kilts of bark-cloth. The -wives of the chiefs wear a load of brass and bead ornaments; -and, like the ladies of Wafanya, they walk -about with patriarchal staves five feet long, and knobbed -at the top.</p> - -<p>We halted for a day at Mzimu in Ubwari, where -Kannena demanded seventy khete of blue-porcelain -beads as his fee for safe conduct to the island. Suddenly, -at 6 <span class="smcapall">P.M.</span>, he informed me that he must move to -other quarters. We tumbled into the boats, and after -enjoying two hours of pleasant progress with a northerly -current, and a splendid moonshine, which set off a scene -at once wild and soft as any</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - -<div class="stanza"> -<span class="verse indent00">“That savage Rosa dashed, or learned Poussin drew,”<br /></span> -</div><!--stanza--> - -</div><!--poetry--> -</div><!--poetry-container--> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-114">[114]</span></p> - -<p class="noindent">we rounded the bluff northern point of the island, put -into “Mtuwwa,” a little bay on its western shore, -pitched the tent, and slept at ease.</p> - -<p>Another halt was required on the 22nd April. The -Sultan Kisesa demanded his blackmail, which amounted -to one coil-bracelet and two cloths; provisions were -hardly procurable, because his subjects wanted white -beads, with which, being at a discount at Ujiji, we had -not provided ourselves; and Kannena again successfully -put in a tyrannical claim for 460 khete of blue-porcelains -to purchase rations.</p> - -<p>On the 23rd April we left Mtuwwa, and made for -the opposite or western shore of the lake, which appeared -about fifteen miles distant; the day’s work was nine -hours. The two canoes paddled far apart, there was -therefore little bumping, smoking, or quarrelling, till -near our destination. At Murivumba the malaria, the -mosquitoes, the crocodiles, and the men are equally feared. -The land belongs to the Wabembe, who are correctly -described in the “Mombas Mission Map” as “Menschenfresser—anthropophagi.” -The practice arises from -the savage and apathetic nature of the people, who -devour, besides man, all kinds of carrion and vermin, -grubs and insects, whilst they abandon to wild growths -a land of the richest soil and of the most prolific climate. -They prefer man raw, whereas the Wadoe of the coast -eat him roasted. The people of a village which backed -the port, assembled as usual to “sow gape-seed;” but -though</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - -<div class="stanza"> -<span class="verse indent00">“A hungry look hung upon them all,”—<br /></span> -</div><!--stanza--> - -</div><!--poetry--> -</div><!--poetry-container--> - -<p class="noindent">and amongst cannibals one always fancies oneself considered -in the light of butcher’s meat,—the poor devils, -dark and stunted, timid and degraded, appeared less -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-115">[115]</span> -dangerous to the living than to the dead. In order to -keep them quiet, the bull-headed Mabruki, shortly before -dusk, fired a charge of duck-shot into the village; -ensued loud cries and deprecations to the “Murungwana,” -but happily no man was hurt. Sayfu the -melancholist preferred squatting through the night on -the bow of the canoe, to trusting his precious person -on shore. We slept upon a reed-margined spit of sand, -and having neglected to pitch the tent, were rained -upon to our heart’s content.</p> - -<p>We left Murivumba of the man-eaters early on the -morning of the 24th April, and stood northwards along -the western shore of the Lake: the converging trend of -the two coasts told that we were fast approaching our -destination. After ten hours’ paddling, halts included, -we landed at the southern frontier of Uvira, in a place -called Mamaletua, Ngovi, and many other names. -Here the stream of commerce begins to set strong; the -people were comparatively civil, they cleared for us a -leaky old hut with a floor like iron,—it appeared to -us a palace!—and they supplied, at moderate prices, -sheep and goats, fish-fry, eggs, and poultry, grain, -manioc and bird-pepper.</p> - -<p>After another long stretch of fifteen rainy and sunny -hours, a high easterly wind compelled the hard-worked -crews to put into Muikamba (?) of Uvira. A neighbouring -hamlet, a few hovels built behind a thick wind-wrung -plantain-grove, backed a reed-locked creek, -where the canoes floated in safety and a strip of clean -sand on which we passed the night as pleasantly as the -bright moonlight and the violent gusts would permit. -On the 26th April, a paddle of three hours and a half -landed us in the forenoon at the sandy baystand, where -the trade of Uvira is carried on.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-116">[116]</span></p> - -<p>Great rejoicings ushered in the end of our outward-bound -voyage. Crowds gathered on the shore to gaze at -the new merchants arriving at Uvira, with the usual -concert, vocal and instrumental, screams, shouts, and -songs, shaums, horns, and tom-toms. The captains of -the two canoes performed with the most solemn gravity -a bear-like dance upon the mat-covered benches, which -form the “quarter-decks,” extending their arms, pirouetting -upon both heels, and springing up and squatting -down till their hams touched the mats. The crews, -with a general grin which showed all their ivories, -rattled their paddles against the sides of their canoes in -token of greeting, a custom derived probably from the -ceremonious address of the Lakists, which is performed -by rapping their elbows against their ribs. Presently -Majid and Bekkari, two Arab youths sent from Ujiji by -their chief, Said bin Majid, to collect ivory, came out to -meet me; they gave me, as usual, the news, and said -that having laid in the store of tusks required, they -intended setting out southwards on the morrow. We -passed half the day of our arrival on the bare landing-place, -a strip of sand foully unclean, from the effect -of many bivouacs. It is open to the water and backed -by the plain of Uvira; one of the broadest of these edges -of gently-inclined ground which separate the Lake from -its trough of hills. Kannena at once visited the -Mwami or Sultan Maruta, who owns a village on a -neighbouring elevation; this chief invited me to his -settlement, but the outfit was running low and the -crew and party generally feared to leave their canoes. -We therefore pitched our tents upon the sand, and prepared -for the last labour, that of exploring the head of -the Lake.</p> - -<p>We had now reached the “ne plus ultra,” the northernmost -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-117">[117]</span> -station to which merchants have as yet been -admitted. The people are generally on bad terms with -the Wavira, and in these black regions a traveller coming -direct from an enemy’s territory is always suspected of -hostile intentions,—no trifling bar to progress. Opposite -us still rose, in a high broken line, the mountains of -inhospitable Urundi, apparently prolonged beyond the -northern extremity of the waters. The head, which -was not visible from the plain, is said to turn N.N. -westwards, and to terminate after a voyage of two days, -which some informants, however, reduce to six hours. -The breadth of the Tanganyika is here between seven -and eight miles. On the 28th April, all my hopes—which, -however, I had hoped against hope—were rudely -dashed to the ground. I received a visit from the three -stalwart sons of the Sultan Maruta: they were the noblest -type of Negroid seen near the Lake, with symmetrical -heads, regular features and pleasing countenances; their -well-made limbs and athletic frames of a shiny jet black, -were displayed to advantage by their loose aprons of -red and dark-striped bark-cloth, slung, like game-bags, -over their shoulders, and were set off by opal-coloured -eyeballs, teeth like pearls, and a profusion of broad -massive rings of snowy ivory round their arms, and conical -ornaments like dwarf marling-spikes of hippopotamus -tooth suspended from their necks. The subject of the -mysterious river issuing from the Lake, was at once -brought forward. They all declared that they had -visited it, they offered to forward me, but they unanimously -asserted, and every man in the host of bystanders -confirmed their words, that the “Rusizi” enters into, -and does not flow out of the Tanganyika. I felt sick at -heart. I had not, it is true, undertaken to explore the -Coy Fountains by this route; but the combined assertions -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-118">[118]</span> -of the cogging Shaykh and the false Msawahili -had startled me from the proprieties of reason, and—this -was the result!</p> - -<p>Bombay, when questioned, declared that my companion -had misunderstood the words of Hamid bin -Sulayyam, who spoke of a river falling into, not issuing -<i>from</i> the lake; and added his own conviction that the -Arab had never sailed north of Ubwari Island. Sayfu, -who at Ujiji had described, as an eye-witness, the -mouth of the déversoir and its direction for two -days, now owned that he had never been beyond Uvira, -and that he never intended to do so. Briefly, I had been -deceived by a strange coincidence of deceit.</p> - -<p>On the 28th April, we were driven from the strip of -land which we originally occupied by a S. E. gale; here -a “blat,” or small hurricane, which drives the foaming -waters of the tideless sea up to the green margin of the -land. Retiring higher up where the canoes were careened, -we spread our bedding on the little muddy -mounds that rise a few inches above the surface of -grass-closed gutter which drains off the showers daily -falling amongst the hills. I was still obliged to content -myself with the lug-sail, thrown over a ridge-pole supported -by two bamboo uprights, and pegged out like a -tent below; it was too short to fall over the ends and to -reach the ground, it was therefore a place of passage -for mizzle, splash, and draught of watery wind. My -companion inhabited the tent bought from the Fundi, it -was thoroughly rotted, during his first trip across the -Lake—by leakage in the boat, and by being “bushed” -with mud instead of pegs on shore. He informed me that -there was “good grub” at Uvira, and that was nearly -the full amount of what I heard from or of him. Our -crews had hutted themselves in the dense mass of grass -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-119">[119]</span> -near our tents; they lived as it were under arms, and -nothing would induce them to venture away from their -only escape, the canoes, which stood ready for launching -whenever required. Sayfu swore that he would -return to Ujiji rather than venture a few yards inland -to buy milk, whilst Bombay and Mabrukí, who ever -laboured under the idea that every brother-African of -the jungle thirsted for their blood, upon the principle -that wild birds hate tame birds, became, when the task -was proposed to them, almost mutinous. Our nine days’ -halt at Uvira had therefore unusual discomforts. The -air, however, though damp and raw, with gust, storm, -and rain, must have been pure in the extreme; appetite -and sleep—except when the bull-frogs were “making a -night of it”—were rarely wanting, and provisions -were good, cheap, and abundant.</p> - -<p>I still hoped, however, to lay down the extreme -limits of the lake northwards. Majid and Bekkari the -Arab agents of Said bin Majid, replied to the offer of -an exorbitant sum, that they would not undertake the -task for ten times that amount. The sons of Maruta -had volunteered their escort; when I wanted to close -with them, they drew off. Kannena, when summoned -to perform his promise and reminded of the hire that -he had received, jumped up and ran out of the tent: -afterwards at Ujiji he declared that he had been willing -to go, but that his crews were unanimous in declining -to risk their lives,—which was perhaps true. Towards -the end of the halt I suffered so severely from ulceration -of the tongue, that articulation was nearly impossible, -and this was a complete stopper to progress. It is a -characteristic of African travel that the explorer may be -arrested at the very bourne of his journey, on the very -threshold of success, by a single stage, as effectually -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-120">[120]</span> -as if all the waves of the Atlantic or the sands of Arabia -lay between.</p> - -<p>Maruta and his family of young giants did not fail to -claim their blackmail; they received a total of twelve -cloths, five kitindi, and thirty khete of coral beads. -They returned two fine goats, here worth about one -cloth each, and sundry large gourds of fresh milk—the -only food I could then manage to swallow. Kannena, who -had been living at Maruta’s village, came down on the 5th -May to demand 460 khete of blue porcelains, wherewith -to buy rations for the return-voyage. Being heavily in -debt, all his salt and coil-bracelets had barely sufficed for -his liabilities: he had nothing to show for them but -masses of Sambo—iron-wire rings—which made his -ankles resemble those of a young hippopotamus. The -slaves and all the fine tusks that came on board were -the property of the crew.</p> - -<p>Our departure from Uvira was finally settled for the -6th May: before taking leave of our “furthest point,” -I will offer a few details concerning the commerce of -the place.</p> - -<p>Uvira is much frequented on account of its cheapness; -it is the great northern depôt for slaves, ivory, grain, -bark-cloth, and ironware, and, in the season, hardly a -day elapses without canoes coming in for merchandise -or provisions. The imports are the kitindi, salt, beads, -tobacco, and cotton cloth. Rice does not grow there, -holcus and maize are sold at one to two fundo of common -beads per masuta or small load,—perhaps sixteen -pounds,—and one khete is sufficient during the months -of plenty to purchase five pounds of manioc, or two -and even three fowls. Plantains of the large and coarse -variety are common and cheap, and one cloth is given -for two goodly earthen pots full of palm-oil. Ivory -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-121">[121]</span> -fetches its weight in brass wire: here the merchant expects -for every 1000 dollars of outfit to receive 100 -farasilah (3500 lbs.) of large tusks, and his profit would -be great were it not counterbalanced by the risk and by -the expense of transport. The prices in the slave-mart -greatly fluctuate. When business is dull, boys under ten -years may be bought for four cloths and five fundo of -white and blue porcelains, girls for six shukkah, and as -a rule at these remote places, as Uvira, Ujipa, and Marungu, -slaves are cheaper than in the market of Ujiji. -Adults fetch no price, they are notoriously intractable, -and addicted to desertion. Bark-cloths, generally in the -market, vary from one to three khete of coral beads. -The principal industry of the Wavira is ironware, the -material for which is dug in the lands lying at a little -distance westward of the lake. The hoes, dudgeons, and -small hatchets, here cost half their usual price at Ujiji. -The people also make neat baskets and panniers, not -unlike those of Normandy, and pretty bowls cut out -of various soft woods, light and dark: the latter are -also found, though rarely, at Ujiji and in the western -islets.</p> - -<p>A gale appeared to be brewing in the north—here -the place of storms—and the crews, fearing wind and -water, in the afternoon insisted upon launching their -canoes and putting out to sea at 10 <span class="smcapall">A.M.</span> on the 6th -May. After touching at the stages before described, -Muikamba, Ngovi and Murivumba of the anthropophagi, -we crossed without other accidents but those of weather—the -rainy monsoon was in its last convulsions—the -western branch or supplementary channel separating the -Lake from the island of Ubwari. Before anchoring at -Mzimu, our former halting-place, we landed at a steep -ghaut, where the crews swarmed up a ladder of rock, and -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-122">[122]</span> -presently returned back with pots of the palm-oil, for -which this is the principal depôt.</p> - -<p>On the 10th May the sky was dull and gloomy, the -wind was hushed, the “rain-sun” burnt with a sickly -and painful heat; the air was still and sultry, stifling -and surcharged, while the glimmerings of lurid lightning -and low mutterings from the sable cloud-banks lying -upon the northern horizon, cut by light masses of mist -in a long unbroken line, and from the black arch rising -above the Acroceraurian hills to the west, disturbed at -times the death-like silence. Even the gulls on the -beach forefelt a storm. I suggested a halt, but the -crews were now in a nervous hurry to reach their homes,—impatience -mastered even <i>their</i> prudence.</p> - -<p>We left Mzimu at sunset, and for two hours coasted -along the shore. It was one of those portentous -evenings of the tropics—a calm before a tempest—unnaturally -quiet; we struck out, however, boldly towards -the eastern shore of the Tanganyika, and the -western mountains rapidly lessened on the view. Before, -however, we reached the mid-channel, a cold gust—in -these regions the invariable presage of a storm—swept -through the deepening shades cast by the heavy rolling -clouds, and the vivid nimble lightning flashed, at first -by intervals, then incessantly, with a ghastly and blinding -glow, illuminating the “vast of night,” and followed by -a palpable obscure, and a pitchy darkness, that weighed -upon the sight. As terrible was its accompaniment of -rushing, reverberating thunder, now a loud roar, peal -upon peal, like the booming of heavy batteries, then -breaking into a sudden crash, which was presently -followed by a rattling discharge like the sharp pattering -of musketry. The bundles of spears planted upright -amidships, like paratonnerres, seemed to invite the electric -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-123">[123]</span> -fluid into the canoes. The waves began to rise, the rain -descended, at first in warning-drops, then in torrents, -and had the wind steadily arisen, the cockle-shell craft -never could have lived through the short, chopping sea -which characterises the Tanganyika in heavy weather. -The crew, though blinded by the showers, and frightened -by the occasional gusts, held their own gallantly enough; -at times, however, the moaning cry, “O my wife!” -showed what was going on within. Bombay, a noted -Voltairian in fine weather, spent the length of that wild -night in reminiscences of prayer. I sheltered myself -from the storm under my best friend, the Mackintosh, -and thought of the far-famed couplet of Hafiz,—with -its mystic meaning I will not trouble the <span class="nowrap">reader:—</span></p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - -<div class="stanza"> -<span class="verse indent00">“This collied night, these horrid waves, these gusts that sweep the whirling deep!<br /></span> -<span class="verse indent0">What reck they of our evil plight, who on the shore securely sleep?”<br /></span> -</div><!--stanza--> - -</div><!--poetry--> -</div><!--poetry-container--> - -<p class="noindent">Fortunately the rain beat down wind and sea, otherwise -nothing short of a miracle could have preserved us -for a dry death.</p> - -<p>That night, however, was the last of our “sea-sorrows.” -After floating about during the latter hours -of darkness, under the land, but uncertain where to -disembark, we made at 7 <span class="smcapall">A.M.</span>, on the 11th May, -Wafanya, our former station in ill-famed Urundi. -Tired and cramped by the night’s work, we pitched tents, -and escaping from the gaze of the insolent and intrusive -crowd, we retired to spend a few hours in sleep.</p> - -<p>I was suddenly aroused by Mabruki, who, rushing -into the tent, thrust my sword into my hands, and -exclaimed that the crews were scrambling into their -boats. I went out and found everything in dire confusion. -The sailors hurrying here and there, were -embarking their mats and cooking-pots, some were in -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-124">[124]</span> -violent parley with Kannena, whilst a little knot was -carrying a man, mortally wounded, down to the waters -of the Lake. I saw at once that the affair was dangerous. -On these occasions the Wajiji, whose first -impulse is ever flight, rush for safety to their boats and -push off, little heeding whom or what they leave -behind. We therefore hurried in without delay.</p> - -<p>When both crews had embarked, and no enemy -appeared, Kannena persuaded them to reland, and -proving to them their superior force, induced them to -demand, at the arrow’s point, satisfaction of Kanoni, -the chief, for the outrage committed by his subjects. -During our sleep a drunken man—almost all these -disturbances arise from fellows who have the “<i>vin -méchant</i>”—had rushed from the crowd of Warundi, -and, knobstick in hand, had commenced dealing blows -in all directions. Ensued a general mêlée. Bombay, -when struck, called to the crews to arm. The Goanese, -Valentine, being fear-crazed, seized my large “Colt” -and probably fired it into the crowd; at all events, the -cone struck one of our own men below the right pap, -and came out two inches to the right of the backbone. -Fortunately for us he was a slave, otherwise the situation -would have been desperate. As it was, the crowd -became violently excited, one man drew his dagger -upon Valentine, and with difficulty I dissuaded Kannena -from killing him. As the crew had ever an eye to the -“main chance,” food, they at once confiscated three -goats, our store for the return voyage, cut their throats, -and spitted the meat upon their spears:—thus the lamb -died and the wolf dined, and the innocent suffered and -the plunderer was joyed, the strong showed his strength -and the weak his weakness, according to the usual formula -of this sublunary world.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-125">[125]</span></p> - -<p>Whilst Kannena was absent, on martial purposes -intent, I visited the sole sufferer in the fray, and after -seeing his wound washed, I forbade his friends to knead -the injured muscles, as they were doing, and to wrench -his right arm from side to side. A cathartic seemed to -have a beneficial effect. On the second day of his -accident he was able to rise. But these occurrences in -wild countries always cause long troubles. Kannena, -who obtained from Sultan Kanoni, as blood-money, a -small girl and a large sheep, declared that the man -might die, and insisted upon my forthwith depositing, -in case of such contingency, eight cloths, which, should -the wound not prove fatal, would be returned. The latter -clause might have been omitted; in these lands, <i>nescit</i> -cloth <i>missa reverti</i>. As we were about to leave Ujiji, -Kannena claimed for the man’s subsistence forty cloths,—or -as equivalent, three slaves and six cloths—which -also it was necessary to pay. A report was afterwards -spread that the wretch had sunk under his wound. -Valentine heard the intelligence with all that philosophy -which distinguishes his race when mishaps occur to any -but self. His prowess, however, cost me forty-eight -dollars, here worth at least £100 in England. Still I -had reason to congratulate myself that matters had not -been worse. Had the victim been a Mjiji freeman, the -trouble, annoyances, and expense would have been interminable. -Had he been a Mrundi, we should have been -compelled to fight our way, through a shower of arrows, -to the boats; war would have extended to Ujiji, and -“England,” as usual, would have had to pay the expenses. -When Said bin Salim heard at Kazeh a distorted -account of this mishap—of course it was reported -that “Haji Abdullah” killed the man—he hit -upon a notable device. Lurinda, the headman of Gungu, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-126">[126]</span> -had often begged the Arab to enter into “blood-brotherhood” -with him, and this had Said bin Salim pertinaciously -refused, on religious grounds, to do. When -informed that battle and murder were in the wind, he at -once made fraternity with Lurinda, hoping to derive -protection from his spear. His terrors afterwards persuaded -him to do the same with Kannena: indeed at -that time he would have hailed a slave as “Ndugu -yango!” (my brother!)</p> - -<p>When Kannena returned successful from his visit to -Kanoni, we prepared to leave Wafanya. The fierce -rain and the nightly drizzle detained us, however, till -the next morning. On the 11th May we paddled round -the southern point of Wafanya Bay to Makimoni, -a little grassy inlet, where the canoes were defended -from the heavy surf.</p> - -<p>After this all was easy. We rattled paddles on the -12th May, as we entered our “patrie,” Nyasanga. The -next night was spent in Bangwe Bay. We were too -proud to sneak home in the dark; we had done something -deserving a Certain Cross, we were heroes, braves -of braves; we wanted to be looked at by the fair, to be -howled at by the valiant. Early on the morning of the -13th May we appeared with shots, shouts, and a shocking -noise, at the reed-lined gap of sand that forms the -ghaut of Kawele. It was truly a triumphal entrance. -All the people of that country-side had collected to -welcome the crew, women and children, as well as men, -pressed waist-deep into the water to receive friend and -relative with becoming affection:—the gestures, the -clamour, and the other peculiarities of the excited mob -I must really leave to the reader’s imagination; the -memory is too much for me.</p> - -<p>But true merit is always modest; it aspires to Honor, -not honours. The Wagungu, or whites, were repeatedly -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-127">[127]</span> -“called for.” I broke, however, through the sudant, strident, -hircine throng, and regaining, with the aid of -Riza’s strong arm, the old Tembe, was salaamed to by the -expectant Said bid Salim and the Jemadar. It felt like a -return home. But I had left, before my departure, with -my Arab chargé-d’affaires, four small loads of cloth, and -on inspecting the supplies there remained only ten -shukkah. I naturally inquired what had become of the -110 others, which had thus prematurely disappeared. -Said bin Salim replied by showing a small pile of -grain-bags, and by informing me that he had hired -twenty porters for the down-march. He volunteered, -it is true, in case I felt disposed to finish the Periplus of -the Lake, to return to Kazeh and to superintend the -transmission of our reserve supplies; as, however, he at -the same time gave me to understand that he could not -escort them back to Ujiji, I thanked him for his offer, -and declined it.</p> - -<p>We had expended upwards of a month—from the -10th April to the 13th May, 1858—in this voyage -fifteen days outward bound, nine at Uvira, and nine in -returning. The boating was rather a severe trial. -We had no means of resting the back; the holds of -the canoes, besides being knee-deep in water, were -disgracefully crowded;—they had been appropriated -to us and our four servants by Kannena, but by degrees, -he introduced in addition to the sticks, spears, -broken vases, pots, and gourds, a goat, two or three -small boys, one or two sick sailors, the little slave-girl -and the large sheep. The canoes were top-heavy -with the number of their crew, and the -shipping of many seas spoilt our tents, and besides, -wetted our salt, and soddened our grain and flour; the -gunpowder was damaged, and the guns were honeycombed -with rust. Besides the splashing of the paddles -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-128">[128]</span> -and the dashing of waves, heavy showers fell almost every -day and night, and the intervals were bursts of burning -sunshine.</p> - -<p>The discomfort of the halt was not less than that of -the boat. At first we pitched tents near the villages, -in tall, fetid grass, upon ground never level, where stones -were the succedanea for tent-pegs stolen for fuel, and -where we slept literally upon mire. The temperature -inside was ever in extremes, now a raw rainy cold, -then a steam-bath that damped us like an April shower. -The villagers, especially in the remoter districts, were -even more troublesome, noisy, and inquisitive, than the -Wagogo. A “notable passion of wonder” appeared in -them. We felt like baited bears: we were mobbed in -a moment, and scrutinised from every point of view -by them; the inquisitive wretches stood on tiptoe, they -squatted on their hams, they bent sideways, they thrust -forth their necks like hissing geese to vary the prospect. -Their eyes, “glaring lightning-like out of their heads,” -as old Homer hath it, seemed to devour us; in the -ecstasy of curiosity they shifted from one Muzungu -to his “brother,” till, like the well-known ass between -the two bundles of hay, they could not enjoy either. -They were pertinacious as flies, to drive them away was -only to invite a return; whilst, worst grief of all, -the women were plain, and their grotesque salutations -resembled the “encounter of two dog-apes.” -The Goanese were almost equally honoured, and -the operation of cooking was looked upon as a -miracle. At last my experience in staring enabled -me to categorise the infliction as follows. Firstly, is the -stare furtive, when the starer would peep and peer -under the tent, and its reverse, the stare open. Thirdly, -is the stare curious or intelligent, which, generally -accompanied with irreverent laughter regarding our -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-129">[129]</span> -appearance. Fourthly, is the stare stupid, which -denoted the hebete incurious savage. The stare -discreet is that of sultans and great men; the stare -indiscreet at unusual seasons is affected by women and -children. Sixthly, is the stare flattering—it was -exceedingly rare, and equally so was the stare contemptuous. -Eighthly, is the stare greedy; it was -denoted by the eyes restlessly bounding from one object -to another, never tired, never satisfied. Ninthly, is -the stare peremptory and pertinacious, peculiar to -crabbed age. The dozen concludes with the stare -drunken, the stare fierce or pugnacious, and finally the -stare cannibal, which apparently considered us as -articles of diet. At last, weary of the stare by day, and -the tent by night, I preferred inhabiting a bundle of -clothes in the wet hold of the canoe; this, at least, -saved the trouble of wading through the water, of -scrambling over the stern, and of making a way between -the two close lines of grumbling and surly blacks that -manned the paddle-benches; whenever, after a meaningless -halt, some individual thought proper to scream -out “Safári!” (journey!)</p> - -<p>Curious to say, despite all these discomforts our -health palpably improved. My companion, though -still uncomfortably deaf, was almost cured of his blindness. -When that ulcerated mouth, which rendered it -necessary for me to live by suction—generally milk and -water—for seventeen days, had returned to its usual -state, my strength gradually increased. Although my feet -were still swollen by the perpetual wet and by the painful -funza or entozoon, my hands partially lost their -numbness, and the fingers which before could hold the -pen only for a few minutes were once more able freely to -write and sketch. In fact, I date a slow but sensible -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-130">[130]</span> -progress towards a complete recovery of health from -the days and nights spent in the canoe and upon -the mud of the Tanganyika Lake. Perhaps mind -had also acted upon matter; the object of my -mission was now effected, and this thought enabled -me to cast off the burden of grinding care with which -the imminent prospect of a failure had before sorely -laden me.</p> - -<p>The rainy monsoon broke up on the 14th May, the -day after my return to Kawele, and once more, after -six months of incessant storm-wind and rain, clouds -and mists, we had fine, cool mornings, clear warm sun, -and deliciously cold nights. The climate became truly -enjoyable, but the scenery somewhat lost its earlier -attractions. The faultless, regular, and uniform beauty, -and the deep stillness of this evergreen land did not -fail to produce that strange, inexplicable melancholy of -which most travellers in tropical countries complain. -In this Nature all is beautiful that meets the eye, all is -soft that affects the senses; but she is a Siren whose -pleasures soon pall upon the enjoyer. The mind, enfeebled -perhaps by an enervating climate, is fatigued -and wearied by the monotony of the charms which -haunt it; cloyed with costly fare, it sighs for the rare -simplicity of the desert. I have never felt this sadness -in Egypt and Arabia, and was never without it in -India and Zanzibar.</p> - -<p>Our outfit, as I have observed, had been reduced to a -minimum. Not a word from Snay bin Amir, my agent -at Kazeh, had arrived in reply to my many missives, -and old Want began to stare at us with the stare -peremptory. “Wealth,” say the Arabs, “hath one -devil, poverty a dozen,” and nowhere might a caravan -more easily starve than in rich and fertile Central -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-131">[131]</span> -Africa. Travellers are agreed that in these countries -“baggage is life:” the heartless and inhospitable race -will not give a handful of grain without return, and to -use the Moslem phrase, “Allah pity him who must beg -of a beggar!” As usual on such occasions, the Baloch -began to clamour for more rations—they received two -cloths per diem—and to demand a bullock wherewith -to celebrate their Eed or greater Festival. There were -several Arab merchants at Kawele, but they had exhausted -their stock in purchasing slaves and ivory. -None in fact were so rich as ourselves, and we were -reduced to ten shukkah, ten fundo of coral beads, and -one load of black porcelains, which were perfectly useless. -With this pittance we had to engage hammals -for the hammock, to feed seventy-five mouths, and to -fee several Sultans; in fact, to incur the heavy expenses -of marching back 260 miles to Unyanyembe.</p> - -<p>Still, with an enviable development of Hope, Said bin -Salim determined that we should reach Kazeh unfamished. -We made the necessary preparations for the -journey, patched tents and umbrella, had a grand -washing and scouring day, mended the portmanteaus, -and ground the grain required for a month’s march, -hired four porters for the manchil, distributed ammunition -to Said bin Salim and the Baloch, who at once -invested it in slaves, and exchanged with Said bin Majid -several pounds of lead for palm-oil, which would be an -economy at the Malagarazi Ferry. For some days past -rumours had reached here that a large caravan of -Wanyamwazi porters, commanded by an Arab merchant, -was approaching Kawele. I was not sanguine enough to -expose myself to another disappointment. Suddenly on -the 22d May, frequent musket shots announced the -arrival of strangers, and at noon the Tembe was surrounded -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-132">[132]</span> -with boxes and bales, porters, slaves, and four -“sons of Ramji,” Mbaruko, Sangora, Khamisi, and Shehe. -Shahdad the Baloch, who had been left behind at Kazeh -in love, and in attendance upon his “brother,” Ismail, -who presently died, had charge of a parcel of papers and -letters from Europe, India, and Zanzibar. They were the -first received after nearly eleven months, and of course -they brought with them evil tidings,—the Indian mutinies. -<i>En revanche</i>, I had a kindly letter from M. Cochet, -Consul of France, and from Mr. Mansfield, of the U.S., -who supplied me with the local news, and added for my -edification a very “low-church” Tract, the first of the -family, I opine, that has yet presented itself in Central -Africa. Mr. Frost reported that he had sent at once a -letter apprising me of Lieut.-Colonel Hamaton’s death, -and had forwarded the medical supplies for which I -indented from K’hutu: these, as has been explained, had -not reached me. Snay bin Amir also informed me that -he had retained all the packages for which he could find -no porters; that three boxes had been stolen from his -“godown;” and finally, that the second supply, 400 -dollars-worth of cloth and beads, for which I had written -at Inenge and had re-written at Ugogo and other -places, was hourly expected to arrive.</p> - -<p>This was an unexpected good fortune, happening at a -crisis when it was really wanted. My joy was somewhat -damped by inspecting the packs of the fifteen -porters. Twelve were laden with ammunition which -was not wanted, and with munitions <i>de bouche</i>, which -were: nearly half the bottles of curry-powder, spices, -and cognac were broken, tea, coffee, and sugar, had -been squeezed out of their tin canisters, and much of -the rice and coffee had disappeared. The three remaining -loads were one of American domestics,—sixty -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-133">[133]</span> -shukkahs—and the rest contained fifteen coral-bracelets -and white beads. All were the refuse of their kind: -the good Hindoos at Zanzibar had seized this opportunity -to dispose of their flimsy, damaged, and unsaleable -articles. This outfit was sufficient to carry us -comfortably to Unyanyembe. I saw, however, with -regret that it was wholly inadequate for the purpose of -exploring the two southern thirds of the Tanganyika -Lake, much less for returning to Zanzibar, <i>viâ</i> the -Nyassa or Maravi Lake, and Kilwa, as I had once -dreamed.</p> - -<p>I received several visits from our old companion, -Muhinna bin Sulayman of Kazeh, and three men of his -party. He did not fail to improve the fact of his having -brought up my supplies in the nick of time. He required -five coil-bracelets and sixteen pounds of beads -as my share of the toll taken from him by the Lord of -the Malagarazi Ferry. For the remaining fifteen coil-bracelets -he gave me forty cloths, and for the load and -a half of white beads he exchanged 880 strings of -blue porcelains—a commercial operation by which he -cleared without trouble 35 per cent. Encouraged by -my facility, he proposed to me the propriety of paying -part of the kuhonga or blackmail claimed from new -comers by Rusimba and Kannena. But facility has its -limits: I quietly objected, and we parted on the best of -terms.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-134">[134]</span></p> - -<div class="container w40em" id="Illoii-10"> - -<img src="images/ii_illo146.jpg" alt="" /> - -<div class="split3367"> - -<div class="left3367"> -<p class="caption">A Mnyamwezi.</p> -</div><!--left3367--> - -<div class="right3367"> - -<div class="split5050"> - -<div class="left5050"> -<p class="caption">A Mjiji.</p> -</div><!--left5050--> - -<div class="right5050"> -<p class="caption">Mugungu Mbaya, “the wicked white man.”</p> -</div><!--right5050--> - -</div><!--split5050--> - -</div><!--right3367--> - -</div><!--split3367--> - -<div class="split5050"> - -<div class="left5050"> -<p class="caption left padl4 blankbefore75">A Mgogo.</p> -</div><!--left5050--> - -<div class="right5050"> -<p class="caption right padr4 blankbefore75">A Mzaramo.</p> -</div><!--right5050--> - -<p class="thinline allclear"> </p> - -</div><!--split5050--> - -<p class="caption">Ferry Boat on the Malagarazi River.</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapno">CHAP. XV.</span><br /> -<span class="chapname">THE TANGANYIKA LAKE AND ITS PERIPLUS.</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p class="noindent">The Tanganyika Lake, though situated in the unexplored -centre of Intertropical Africa, and until 1858 -unvisited by Europeans, has a traditionary history of -its own, extending through more than three centuries.</p> - -<p>“Accounts of a great sea in the interior of Africa obtained -(partially from native travellers) at Congo and -Sofala,” reached the Portuguese settlements on both -shores of the continent.<a id="FNanchorii6"></a><a href="#Footnoteii6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> The details of de Barros -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-135">[135]</span> -(first printed in 1852), whilst affording substantially -correct details, such as the length of the Lake—100 -leagues—the capability of navigation, and the one large -island—Ubwari—are curiously intermingled with the -errors of theoretical conclusion. Subsequently Pigafetta -(1591), writing upon the authority of Portuguese inquirers, -affirms that there is but one lake (the N’yassa) -on the confines of Angola and Monomotapa, but that -there are two lakes (the Nyassa and the Tanganyika), -not lying east and west, as was supposed by Ptolemy of -Alexandria, but north and south of each other, and -about 400 miles asunder, which give birth to the Nile. -From that epoch dates the origin of our modern misconceptions -concerning the Lake Region of Central -Intertropical Africa. The Nyassa and the Tanganyika -were now blended, then separated, according to the -theories or the information of the geographer; no explorer -ventured to raise from the land of mystery the -veil that invested it; and the “Mombas Mission” added -the colophon by confounding, with the old confusion, -the Nyanza or Ukerewe, a third lake, of which they -had heard at Mombasah and elsewhere. It is not -wonderful then that Dr. Vincent suspected the existence -or the place of the Central Lake, or that the more ignorant -popularizers of knowledge confounded the waters -of the Nyassa and the Ngami.<a id="FNanchorii7"></a><a href="#Footnoteii7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a></p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnoteii6"></a><a href="#FNanchorii6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> -Mr. Cooley’s ‘Memoir on the Geography of N’yassi,’ p. 1. (Vol. XV. of -1845, Journal of the Royal Geographical Society.) The extracts from -Portuguese history in the text are entirely taken from that learned paper, -which in describing actualities wanted nothing but a solid foundation of -data. The geographer’s principal informant in 1834 was one “Khamisi bin -Tani,” civilised into “Khamis bin Osman,” a Msawahili of Lamu who -having visited the Nyassa, Maravi or Kilwa Lake, pretended that he had -travelled to the Tanganyika Lake. I cannot allow this opportunity to pass -without expressing my gratitude to Mr. Cooley for his courtesy in supplying -me with references and other information.</p> - -<p><a id="Footnoteii7"></a><a href="#FNanchorii7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> -In the ‘Westminster Review’ (New Series, No. XX.) occurs the -following passage, which sufficiently illustrates the assertion in the text; the -critic is discussing Mr. C. Andersson’s ‘Lake Ngami,’ &c. &c. (London, 1856):—“African -missionaries, penetrating some little distance inland from the -S.E., recently brought information, which they received second-hand from -Arab travellers, of a vast fresh-water lake far in the interior, described as -being of enormous dimensions—as nothing less than a great inland sea. -Frequenters of the Geographical Society’s meetings in Whitehall-place have -observed in consequence, on the site which used to be marked in the maps -as a sandy desert, a blue spot, about the size of the Caspian, and the shape -of a hideous inflated leech. We trusted that a more accurate survey would -correct the extreme frightfulness of the supposed form. Mr. Andersson has -spared us further excitement. The lake turns out to be a mirage—a -mythus with the smallest conceivable nucleus of fact. On the very spot -occupied by this great blue leech—long. E. from Greenwich 23° and lat. -S. 20° 21′—he found a small speck of bitter water, something more than -twenty miles across, or the size of Lake Corrib in Galway. So perishes -a phantom which has excited London geographers for a whole season.”</p> - -<p>Had the learned reviewer used his eyes or his judgment in Whitehall-place, -he would not thus have confounded the hypothetic sea of the ‘Mombas -Mission Map’—a reservoir made to include the three several waters of -Nyanza, Tanganyika, and Nyassa—in E. long. 24°-29°, and <i>S. lat.</i> 0° 13′—with -the little Ngami explored by Dr. Livingstone and a party of friends -in August, 1849, and placed by him in E. long. 23°, and in <i>S. lat.</i> 20° 20′ -21′. The nearest points of the two waters are separated by an interval, in -round numbers, of 700 miles.</p> - -</div><!--footnote--> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-136">[136]</span></p> - -<p>The earliest name given by theoretical writers to the -hypothetical single lake appears to have been Zembére, -Zémbere, Zambre, Zambri, or Zembre, probably a corruption -or dialectic variety of Zambesi, that river being -supposed, like the Nile, the Zaire, the Manisa, and others, -to be derived from it. The word Moravi or Maravi, which -still deforms our maps, is the name of a large tribe or a -lordly race like the Wahinda, dwelling to the south-east -and south-west of the Nyassa. In the seventeenth century -Luigi Mariano, a missioner residing at the Rios de Sena, -calls the Central Sea the Lake of Hemosura; his description -however applies to the Nyassa, Maravi or Kilwa -Lake, and the word is probably a corruption of Rusuro or -Lusuro, which in the language of Uhiao signifies a river -or flowing water. In the ‘Mombas Mission Map’ the -lake is called “See von Uniamesi,” a mere misnomer, -as it is separated by hundreds of miles from the Land -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-137">[137]</span> -of the Moon: the northern part is termed Ukerewe, by -a confusion with the Nyanza Lake and the southern -N’hánjá, for Nyassa, the old Maravi water near Kilwa. -It is not a little curious, however, that Messrs. Cooley -and Macqueen should both have recorded the vernacular -name of the northern Lake Tangenyika, so unaccountably -omitted from the ‘Mombas Mission Map.’ The -words Tanganyenka and Tanganyenko used by Dr. -Livingstone, who in places appears to confound the -Lake with the Nyanza and the Nyassa, are palpable mispronunciations.</p> - -<p>The African name for the central lake is Tanganyika, -signifying an anastomosis, or a meeting place (sc. of -waters,) from ku tanganyika, the popular word, to join, -or meet together: the initial t being changed to ch—ku -changanyika for ku tanganyika—in the lingua Franca -of Zanzibar doubtless gave rise to Mr. Cooley’s “Zanganyika.” -The word Tanganyika is universally used -by the Wajiji and other tribes near and upon the Lake. -The Arabs and African strangers, when speaking loosely -of it, call it indifferently the Bahari or Sea, the Ziwa or -Pond, and even the Mtoni or River. The “Sea of -Ujiji” would, after the fashion of Easterns, be limited -to the waters in the neighbourhood of that principal -depot.</p> - -<p>The Tanganyika occupies the centre of the length of -the African continent, which extends from 32° N. to -33° S. latitude, and it lies on the western extremity of -the eastern third of the breadth. Its general direction -is parallel to the inner African line of volcanic action -drawn from Gondar southwards through the regions -about Kilima-ngáo (Kilimanjáro) to Mount Njesa, the -eastern wall of the Nyassa Lake. The general formation -suggests, as in the case of the Dead Sea, the idea -of a volcano of depression—not, like the Nyanza or -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-138">[138]</span> -Ukerewe, a vast reservoir formed by the drainage of -mountains. Judging from the eye, the walls of this -basin rise in an almost continuous curtain, rarely -waving and infracted to 2,000 or 3,000 feet above the -water-level. The lower slopes are well wooded: upon -the higher summits large trees are said not to grow; -the deficiency of soil, and the prevalence of high fierce -winds would account for the phenomena. The lay is -almost due north and south, and the form a long oval, -widening in the central portions and contracting systematically -at both extremities. The length of the bed -was thus calculated: From Ujiji (in S. lat. 4° 55′) to -Uvira (in S. lat. 3° 25′), where the narrowing of the -breadth evidences approach to the northern head, was -found by exploration a direct distance of 1° 30′ = 90 -miles, which, allowing for the interval between Uvira -and the river Rusizi, that forms the northernmost limit, -may be increased to 100 rectilinear geographical miles. -According to the Arab voyagers, who have frequently -rounded the lake Ujiji in eight stages from the northern, -and twelve from the southern, end of the lake, the extent -from Ujiji to the Marungu River, therefore, is -roughly computed at 150 miles. The total of length, -from Uvira, in S. lat. 30° 25′, to Marungu, in S. lat. 7° 20′, -would then be somewhat less than 250 rectilinear -geographical miles. About Ujiji the water appears to -vary in breadth from 30 to 35 miles, but the serpentine -form of the banks, with a succession of serrations and -indentations of salient and re-entering angles—some -jutting far and irregularly into the bed—render the -estimate of average difficult. The Arabs agree in correctly -stating, that opposite Ujiji the shortest breadth -of the lake is about equal to the channel which divides -Zanzibar from the mainland, or between 23 and 24 -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-139">[139]</span> -miles. At Uvira the breadth narrows to eight miles. -Assuming, therefore, the total length at 250, and the -main breadth at 20, geographical miles, the circumference -of the Tanganyika would represent, in round -numbers, a total of 550 miles; the superficial area, -which seems to vary little, covers about 5,000 square -miles; and the drainage from the beginning of the great -Central African depression in Unyamwezi, in E. long. -33° 58′, numbers from the eastward about 240 miles.</p> - -<p>By B. P. thermometer the altitude of the Tanganyika -is 1850 feet above the sea-level, and about 2000 feet below -the adjacent plateau of Unyamwezi and the Nyanza, or -northern lake. This difference of level, even did not -high-hill ranges intervene, would preclude the possibility -of that connection between the waters which the Arabs, -by a conjecture natural to inexpert geographers, have -maintained to the confusion of the learned. The topographical -situation of the Tanganyika is thus the centre -of a deep synclical depression in the continent, a long -narrow trough in the southern spurs of Urundi, which, -with its mountain-neighbour Karagwah, situated upon -the equator, represents the Inner African portion of -the Lunar Mountains. It may be observed that the -parallel of the northern extremity of the Tanganyika -nearly corresponds with the southern creek of the Nyanza, -and that they are separated by an arc of the -meridian of about 343 miles.</p> - -<p>The water of the Tanganyika appears deliciously -sweet and pure after the salt and bitter, the putrid and -slimy produce of the wells, pits, and pools on the line -of march. The people, however, who drink it willingly -when afloat, prefer, when on shore, the little springs -which bubble from its banks. They complain that it -does not satisfy thirst, and contrast it unfavourably -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-140">[140]</span> -with the waters of its rival the Nyanza: it appears -moreover, to corrode metal and leather with exceptional -power. The colour of the pure and transparent mass -has apparently two normal varieties: a dull sea-green—never, -however, verdigris-coloured, as in the shoals of -the Zanzibar seas, where the reflected blue of the atmosphere -blends with the yellow of the sandy bottom; the -other, a clear, soft blue—by day rarely deep and dark, -like the ultramarine of the Mediterranean, but resembling -the light and milky tints of tropical seas. Under a strong -wind the waves soon rise in yeasty lines, foaming up -from a turbid greenish surface, and the aspect becomes -menacing in the extreme.</p> - -<p>It was found impracticable to take soundings of the -Tanganyika: the Arabs, however, agreed in asserting -that with lines of several fathoms they found bottom -only near the shores. The shingly sole shelves rapidly, -without steps or overfalls, into blue water. Judging -from the eye, the bottom is sandy and profusely strewn -with worn pebbles. Reefs and washes were observed -near the shores; it is impossible to form an idea of their -position or extent, as the crews confine themselves to a -few well-known lines, from which they cannot be persuaded -to diverge. No shoals or shallows were seen -at a distance from the coasts, and though islets are not -unfrequent upon the margin, only one was observed or -heard of near the centre.</p> - -<p>The affluents of this lake are neither sufficiently -numerous nor considerable to alter by sedimentary deposit -the depth or the shape of the bed. The borders -are generally low: a thick fringe of rush and reed, obviating -erosion by the element, conceals the watery -margin. Where the currents beat, they cut out a short -and narrow strip of quartzose sand, profusely strewn -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-141">[141]</span> -with large shingle, gravel, comminuted shells, and marine -exuviæ, with a fringe of drift formed by the joint -action of wind and wave. Beyond this is a shelving -plain—the principal locality for cultivation and settlements. -In some parts it is a hard clay conglomerate; -in others, a rich red loam, apparently stained with oxide -of iron; and in others sandy, but everywhere coated -with the thickest vegetation extending up to the background -of mountains. The coast is here and there -bluff, with miniature cliffs and headlands, whose formation -is of sandstone strata tilted, broken, and distorted, -or small blocks imbedded in indurated reddish earth. -From the water appeared piles of a dark stone resembling -angular basalt, and amongst the rock-crevices -the people find the float-clay, or mountain meal, with -which they decorate their persons and the sterns of -their canoes. The uncultivated hill summits produce -various cactaceæ; the sides are clothed with giant trees, -the mvule, the tamarind, and the bauhinia. On the -declines, more precipitous than the Swiss terraces, -manioc and cereals grow luxuriantly, whilst the lowest -levels are dark with groves of plantains and Guinea-palms.</p> - -<p>A careful investigation and comparison of statements -leads to the belief that the Tanganyika receives and -absorbs the whole river-system—the net-work of streams, -nullahs, and torrents—of that portion of the Central -African depression whose water-shed converges towards -the great reservoir. Geographers will doubt that such -a mass, situated at so considerable an altitude, can -maintain its level without an effluent. Moreover, the -freshness of the water would, under normal circumstances, -argue the escape of saline matter washed down -by the influents from the area of drainage. But may -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-142">[142]</span> -not the Tanganyika, situated, like the Dead Sea, as a -reservoir for supplying with humidity the winds which -have parted with their moisture in the barren and arid -regions of the south, maintain its general level by the -exact balance of supply and evaporation? And may -not the saline particles deposited in its waters be wanting -in some constituent which renders them evident to the -taste? One point concerning the versant has been -proved by these pages, namely, that the Tanganyika -cannot be drained eastward by rents in a subtending -mountain ridge, as was supposed by Dr. Livingstone -from an indiscriminately applied analogy with the -ancient head-basin of the Zambezi. Dr. Livingstone -(chap. xxiv. xxvi. et passim) informs his readers, from -report of the Arabs, that the Tanganyika is a large -shallow body of water; in fact, the residuum of a mass -anciently much more extensive. This, however, is not -and cannot be the case. In theorising upon the eastern -versant and drainage of the Tanganyika, Dr. Livingstone -seems to have been misled by having observed that the -vast inland sea of geological ages, of which Lake Ngami -and its neighbour Kumadau are now the principal -remains, had been desiccated by cracks and fissures, -caused in the subtending soils by earthquakes and -sudden upheavals, which thus opened for the waters an -exit into the Indian Ocean. This may have happened -to the Nyassa, or Southern Lake; it must not, however, -be generalized and extended to the Nyanza and the -Tanganyika.</p> - -<p>As in Zanzibar, there is little variety of temperature -upon the Tanganyika. The violent easterly gales, -which, pouring down from the cold heights of Usagara, -acquire impetus sufficient to carry the current over -Ugogo, Unyamwezi, and Uvinza, are here less distinctly -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-143">[143]</span> -defined. The periodical winds over the Lake—regular, -but not permanent—are the south-east and the south-west, -which also bring up the foulest weather. The -land and sea breezes are felt almost as distinctly as upon -the shores of the Indian Ocean. The breath of the -morning, called by the Arabs El Barad, or the zephyr, -sets in from the north. During the day are light variable -breezes, which often subside, when the weather is -not stormy, into calms. In the evenings a gentle afflatus -comes up from the waters. Throughout the dry season -the Lake becomes a wind-trap, and a heavy ground sea -rolls towards the shore. In the rains there is less sea, -but accidents occur from sudden and violent storms. -The mountainous breakers of Arab and African informants -were not seen; in fact, with a depth of three -feet from ridge to dell, a wave would swamp the largest -laden canoe. Wind-currents are common. Within a -few hours a stream will be traversed, setting strongly -to the east, and crossed by a southerly or south-westerly -current. High gales, in certain localities where the -waves set upon a flush, flat shore, drive the waters -fifteen to twenty feet beyond the usual mark. This -circumstance may partly explain the Arab’s belief in a -regular Madd wa Jarr—ebb and flow—which Eastern -travellers always declare to have observed upon the -Tanganyika and Nyassa Lakes, and which Mr. Anderson -believes to exist in the little Ngami. A mass of -water so large must be, to a certain extent, subject to -tidal influences; but the narrowness of the bed from -east to west would render their effect almost unobservable. -Mr. Francis Galton referred me for the explanation -of this phenomenon to a paper ‘On the -Seiches of Lakes,’ by Colonel J. R. Jackson, F.R.G.S., -published in the ‘Journal of the R. G. S.,’ vol. iii. of -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-144">[144]</span> -1833, in which the learned author refers the ebb and -flow of the waters of Lake Leman, or of Geneva (and -of the lakes of Zurich, Annecy, and Constance), to “an -unequal pressure of the atmosphere on different parts -of the lake at the same time; that is, to the simultaneous -effect of columns of air of different weight or -different elasticity, arising from temporary variations of -temperature, or from mechanical causes.”</p> - -<p>The scenery and the navigation of the Tanganyika -have been illustrated in the last chapter. Remains -only a succinct account of the physical and ethnological -features of its Periplus, carefully collected from authorities -on the spot.</p> - -<p>According to the Wajiji, from their country to the -Runangwa or Marungu River, which enters the Lake at -the southern point, there are twelve stages; this Periplus -numbers 120 khambi or stations, at most of which, -however, provisions are not procurable. An extended -list of fifty-three principal points was given by the -guides; it is omitted, as it contains nothing beyond -mere names. There are, however, sixteen tribes and -districts which claim attention: of these, Ukaranga and -Ujiji have already been described.</p> - -<p>The kingdom of Urundi, which lies north of Ujiji, -has a sea-face of about fifty miles; a low strip of exceeding -fertility, backed at short distances by a band of -high green hill. This region, rising from the Lake in a -north-easterly direction, culminates into the equatorial -mass of highlands which, under the name of Karagwah, -forms the western spinal prolongation of the Lunar -Mountains. The residence of the Mwami, or chief -sultan Mwezi, is near the headstream of the Kitangure -(Kitangule), or River of Karagwah, which rises at a -place distant six days’ march (sixty miles), and bearing -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-145">[145]</span> -north-east from, the Tanganyika. His settlement, according -to the Arabs, is of considerable extent; the -huts are built of rattan, and lions abound in the -vicinity.</p> - -<p>Urundi differs from the lake regions generally in -being a strictly monarchical country, locally governed -by Watware or headmen, who transmit the customs -and collections at stated periods to their suzerain. The -Mwame, it is said, can gather in a short time a large -host of warriors who are the terror of the neighbouring -tribes. The Warundi are evidently natives of a high -cold country; they are probably the “white people -resembling Abyssinians,” and dwelling near the Lake, -of whom European geographers have heard from Zanzibar. -The complexion varies from a tawny yellow, -the colour of the women, to a clear dark brown, which -is so brightened by the daily use of ochre mixed with -palm-oil, that in few cases the real tint is discernible. -The men tattoo with circles and lines like cupping-cuts; -some burn up alti rilievi of large shining lumps an inch -in diameter, a decoration not a little resembling large -boils; others chip the fore teeth like the Wanyamwezi. -Their limbs are stout and well proportioned, many -stand upwards of six feet high, and they bear the appearance -of a manly and martial race. Their dress is -the mbugu, worn in the loosest way; their arms are -heavy spears, sime, and unusually strong arrows; their -ornaments are beads, brass wire, and streaks of a -carmine-coloured substance, like the red farinaceous -powder called in India gulal, drawn across the head -and forehead. The Waganga, or priests of Urundi, -wear a curious hood, a thatch of long white grass or -fibre, cut away at the face and allowed to depend behind -over the shoulders; their half-naked figures, occasionally -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-146">[146]</span> -rattling wooden clappers, and capering causelessly -like madmen, present a savage and horrid appearance. -Honourable women wear long tobes of -American domestics from below the arms to the ankles; -they are followed by hosts of female slaves, and preserve -an exceptionally modest and decorous demeanour. -Their features are of the rounded African type of -beauty. Their necks and bosoms support a profusion -of sofi and other various-coloured beads; their foreheads -are bound with frontlets, fillet-like bands of -white and coral porcelain, about three fingers deep, a -highly becoming ornament probably derived from Karagwah; -and those who were seen by the Expedition -invariably walked about with thin staves five or six -feet long, pointed and knobbed as the walking-sticks of -ancient Egypt.</p> - -<p>At the northern extremity of the Urundi sea-face, -and at the head of the Tanganyika, lies the land of -Uzige; it is rarely visited except by the Lakist traders. -This people, who, like their neighbours, cannot exist -without some form of traffic, have, it is said, pursued -the dows of the earlier Arab explorers with a flotilla of -small canoes; it is probable that negro traders would -be better received. In their country, according to the -guides, six rivers fall into the Tanganyika in due order -from the east: the Kuryamavenge, the Molongwe, the -Karindira, the Kariba, the Kibaiba, and westernmost -the Rusizi or Lusizi. The latter is the main drain of -the northern countries, and the best authorities, that is -to say those nearest the spot, unanimously assert that -it is an influent.</p> - -<p>The races adjoining Uzige, namely, the Wavira on -the north-western head of the Tanganyika, and their -southern neighbours, the Wabembe cannibals, have -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-147">[147]</span> -already been mentioned. The Wasenze inhabit the -hills within or westwards of the Wabembe. Further -southwards and opposite Kawele in Ujiji are the Wagoma -highlanders. The lower maritime lands belonging -to the Wagoma supply the gigantic mvule trees required -for the largest canoes. These patriarchs of the -forest are felled and shaped with little axes on the spot; -when finished they are pushed and dragged down the -slopes by the workmen, and are launched and paddled -over to the shores of Ujiji.</p> - -<p>South of the Wagoma are the Waguhha, who have -been mentioned as the proprietors of the islets south-west -of Ujiji. In their lands, according to the Arabs, -is a lake or large water called Mikiziwá, whence the -tribe upon its banks derives its name Wamikiziwá. -Through the country of the Waguhha lies the route to -Uruwwa, at present the western terminus of the Zanzibar -trade. The merchant crossing the sea-arm which -separates Kasenge from the mainland of the Tanganyika, -strikes towards Uruwwa; the line runs over low -levels shelving towards the lake, cut by a reticulation -of streams unfordable after rain, and varied by hilly -and rolling ground. Provisions are everywhere procurable, -but the people, like the Wavinza, are considered -dangerous. At Uruwwa the khete, or string of beads, -is half the size of that current in other countries. The -price of ivory per frasilah is 15 miranga, or 150 large -khete of white, small-blue, and coarse-red porcelain beads, -the latter called Lungenga; besides which a string of -sungomaji (pigeon-egg beads), and a few sámesáme, or -coral-beads, are thrown in. The route numbers nine -long or sixteen short stages; the general direction is -south-westerly. Kiyombo, the sultan of Uruwwa, is at -present friendly with the Arabs; he trades in ivory, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-148">[148]</span> -slaves, and a little copper from Katata or Katanga, a -district distant fifteen marches north-west of Usenda, -the now well-known capital of the great chief Kazembe. -The grandfather of the present Kazembe, the “viceroy” -of the country lying south-west of the Tanganyika, and -feudatory to Mwátá yá Nvo, the sovereign of “Uropua,” -was first visited by Dr. Lacerda, governor of the -Rios de Sena, in 1798-99. The traveller died, however, -after being nine months in the country, without -recording the name and position of the African capital; -the former was supplied by the expedition sent under -Major Monteiro and Captain Gamitto in 1831-32; it is -variously pronounced Lucenda, Luenda, and by the -Arabs Usenda, the difference being caused probably by -dialect or inflexion. According to the Arabs, the -Kazembe visited by the Portuguese expedition in 1831, -died about 1837, and was succeeded by his son the -present chief. He is described as a man of middle age, -of light-coloured complexion, handsomely dressed in a -Surat cap, silk coat, and embroidered loin cloth; he is -rich in copper, ivory, and slaves, cloth and furniture, -muskets and gunpowder. Many Arabs, probably -half-castes, are said to be living with him in high -esteem, and the medium of intercourse is the Kisawahili. -Though he has many wives, he allows his subjects -but one each, puts both adulterer and adulteress to -death, and generally punishes by gouging out one or -both eyes.</p> - -<p>On the Uruwwa route caravans are composed wholly -of private slaves; the races of the Tanganyika will not -carry loads, and the Wanyamwezi, unmaritime savages -like the Kafirs, who have a mortal dread and abhorrence -of water, refuse to advance beyond Ujiji. On -account of its dangers, the thriving merchants have -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-149">[149]</span> -hitherto abandoned this line to debtors and desperate -men.</p> - -<p>South of Uguhha lies the unimportant tribe of Wat’hembwe, -whose possessions are within sight of Kawele -in Ujiji. The race adjoining them is the Wakatete -or Wakadete, and the country is called by the Arabs -Awwal Marungu, on the northern frontier of Marungu. -Marungu is one of the most important divisions of the -lands about the Tanganyika. Amayr bin Said el -Shaksi, a sturdy old merchant from Oman, who, wrecked -about twelve years ago on that part of the coast, had -spent five months with the people, living on roots and -grasses, divides the region generically termed Marungu -into three distinct provinces—Marungu to the north, -Karungu in the centre, and Urungu on the south. -Others mention a western Marungu, divided from the -eastern by the Runangwa River, and they call the -former in contradistinction Marungu Tafuna, from its -sultan.</p> - -<p>Western Marungu extends according to the Arabs in -depth from Ut’hembwe to the Wabisa, a tribe holding -extensive lands westward of the Nyassa Lake. Travellers -from Unyamwezi to K’hokoro meet, near Ufipa, -caravans of the northern Wabisa <i>en route</i> to Kilwa. -Between Marungu and Usenda, the capital of the Kazembe, -the road lies through the district of Kavvire, -distant seven marches; thence nine stages conduct -them to the end of the journey. There is an upper -land route through Uruwwa for those travelling from -Ujiji to Usenda, and many caravans have passed from -Unyanyembe direct through K’hokoro and Ufipa, to the -country of the Kazembe. Mr. Cooley (“Geography of -N’yassi,” p. 7) conjectures that the Ambios or Imbies, -Zimbas or Muzimbas, celebrated by the old Portuguese -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-150">[150]</span> -historians of Africa on account of an irruption, in 1570, -from the north as far as the Zambezi River, “were no -other than the M’Biza, or Moviza, as they are called by -the Portuguese who still occupy its (the Nyassa’s) -south-western banks.” The proper name of this well-known -tribe is Wábísá (in the sing. Mbisá), not Wábíshá, -as it is pronounced at Zanzibar, where every -merchant knows “Bisha ivory.” The Wábísá extend -according to the Arabs from the west of the Nyassa or -Kilwa Lake towards the south of the Tanganyika. -They dress in bark-cloth, carry down their fine ivory to -Tete and Kilimani (Quillimane); and every four or -five years a caravan appears at Kilwa, where, confounding -their hosts with the Portuguese, they call every -Arab “muzungu,” or white man. They are a semi-pastoral -tribe, fond of commerce, and said to be civil -and hospitable to strangers. It must be observed that -those geographers are in error who connect the Wabisa -with the Wanyamwezi; they are distinct in manners -and appearance, habits and language. Mr. Cooley has, -for instance, asserted that “the ‘Moviza’ and the ‘Monomoezi’ -are similar in physical character and national -marks.” The only mark known to the Wabisa is the -kishshah, or crest of hair; not, as Khamisi Wa Tani -asserted to Mr. Cooley (“Inner Africa laid Open,” p. 61), -a dotted line on the nose and forehead; whereas, the -Wanyamwezi, as has been seen, puncture the skin. -Thus Lacerda calls the “Moviza” a frizzled and periwigged -people. The Arabs deny the assertion of -Pereira, recorded by Bowdich, that the Moviza, like the -Wahiao, file their teeth.</p> - -<p>Marungu is described by the Arabs as a hilly country -like Ujiji and Uvira: the precincts of the lake, however, -are here less bold than the opposite shore. Off the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-151">[151]</span> -coast lie four or five islands, two of which, according to -the Arabs, are of considerable size; the only name given -is Ukungwe, which appears, however, to be rather the -name of the farthest point visible from Kasenge, and -bearing S. 58° E. On the north-western frontier of -Marungu, and about three marches from the lake, is the -district called Utumbara, from Mtumbara its sultan. -This Utumbara, which must not be confounded with -the district of the same name in Northern Unyamwezi, -is said by the Arabs to be fifteen to twenty days’ march -from Usenda.</p> - -<p>Marungu, though considered dangerous, has often -been visited by Arab merchants. After touching at -Kasenge they coast along Uguhha for four days, not -daring to land there in consequence of an event that -happened about 1841-42. A large Arab caravan of -200 armed slaves, led by Mohammed bin Salih and -Sulayman bin Nasir, and with four coadjutors, Abd el -Al and Ibn Habib, Shiahs of Bahrayn, Nasir and -Rashid bin Salim el Harisi (who soon afterwards died -at Marungu) took boat to Marungu, and in due time -arrived at Usenda. They completed their cargo, and -were returning in a single boat, when they were persuaded -by the Sultan Mtumbara to land, and to assist -him in annihilating a neighbour, Sámá or Kipyoká, -living at about one day’s march from the Lake. The -Arabs, aided by Africans, attacked a boma, or palisade, -where, bursting in, they found Sámá’s brother sitting -upon pombe, with his wife. The villagers poured in a -shower of arrows, to which the Arabs replied by shooting -down the happy couple over their cups. Sámá’s -people fled, but presently returning they massacred the -slaves of the Arabs, who were obliged to take refuge in -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-152">[152]</span> -the grass till aid was afforded by their employer Mtumbara. -Sámá, thus victorious, burned the Arab boat, -and, compelling the merchants to return to Usenda, -seized the first opportunity of slaying his rival. The -Arabs have found means of sending letters to their -friends, but they appear unable to leave the country. -Their correspondence declares them to be living in -favour with the Kazembe, who has presented them with -large rice-shambas, that they have collected ivory and -copper in large quantities, but are unable to find porters. -This being highly improbable in a land where in 1807 -a slave cost five, and a tusk of ivory six or seven -squares of Indian piece-goods, and as, moreover, several -merchants, deluded by exaggerated accounts of the -Kazembe’s wealth and liberality, intrusted these men -with considerable ventures, of which no tidings have as -yet reached the creditors’ ears, the more acute Arabs -suspect that their countrymen are living from hand to -mouth about Usenda, and are cultivating the land with -scant prospect of quitting it.</p> - -<p>The people of Marungu are called Wámbozwá by the -Arabs; they are subject to no king, but live under local -rulers, and are ever at war with their neighbours. -They are a dark and plain, a wild and uncomely race. -Amongst these people is observed a custom which connects -them with the Wangindo, Wahiao, and the slave -races dwelling inland from Kilwa. They pierce the -upper lip and gradually enlarge the aperture till the -end projects in a kind of bill beyond the nose and chin, -giving to the countenance a peculiar duck-like appearance. -The Arabs, who abhor this hideous vagary of -fashion, scarify the sides of the hole and attempt to -make the flesh grow by the application of rock-salt. -The people of Marungu, however, are little valued as -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-153">[153]</span> -slaves; they are surly and stubborn, exceedingly depraved, -and addicted to desertion.</p> - -<p>Crossing the Runangwa or Marungu River, which, -draining the southern countries towards the Tanganyika, -is represented to equal the Malagarazi in volume, the -traveller passes through the districts of Marungu -Tafuna, Ubeyya, and Iwemba. Thence, turning to the -north, he enters the country of the Wapoka, between -whom and the Lake lie the Wasowwa and the Wafipa. -This coast is divided from the opposite shore by a -voyage of fourteen hours; it is a hilly expanse divided -by low plains, where men swarm according to the -natives like ants. At a short distance from the shore -lies the Mvuma group, seven rocks or islets, three of -which are considerable in size, and the largest, shaped -like a cone, breeds goats in plenty, whilst the sea around -is rich in fish. There are other islets in the neighbourhood, -but none are of importance.</p> - -<p>Ufipa is an extensive district fertilised by many -rivers. It produces grain in abundance, and the wild -rice is of excellent flavour. Cattle abounded there -before the Watuta, who held part of the country, began -a system of plunder and waste, which ended in their -emigration to the north of Uvinza; cows, formerly -purchased for a few strings of cheap white beads, are -now rare and dear. The Wafipa are a wild but kindly -people, who seldom carry arms: they have ever welcomed -the merchants that visited them for slaves and -ivory, and they are subject to four or five principal -chiefs. The servile specimens seen at Unyanyembe -were more like the jungle races of the Deccan than -Africans—small and short, sooty and shrunken men, so -timid, ignorant, and suspicious, that it was found impossible -to obtain from them the simplest specimen of -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-154">[154]</span> -their dialect. Some of them, like the Wanyoro, had -extracted all the lower incisors.</p> - -<p>North of the Wafipa, according to the Arabs, lies -another tribe, called Wat’hembe (?), an offshoot from -the people on the opposite side of the Tanganyika. -Here the lake receives a small river called the Murunguru -(?). The circuit of the Tanganyika concludes with -the Wat’hongwe, called from their sultan or their founder -Wat’hongwe Kapana. In clear weather their long promontory -is the furthest point visible from Kawele in -Ujiji; and their lands extend northwards to Ukaranga -and the Malagarazi River.</p> - -<p>Such are the most important details culled from a -mass of Arab oral geography: they are offered however -to the reader without any guarantee of correctness. -The principal authorities are the Shaykh Snay bin Amir -el Harsi and Amayr bin Said el Shaksi; the latter was -an eye-witness. All the vague accounts noted down -from casual informants were submitted to them for an -imprimatur. Their knowledge and experience surpassing -those of others, it was judged better to record -information upon trust from them only, rather than to -heap together reliable and unreliable details, and as -some travellers do, by striking out a medium, inevitably -to confuse fact with fiction. Yet it is the explorer’s -unpleasant duty throughout these lands to doubt everything -that has not been subjected to his own eyes. -The boldest might look at the “Mombas Mission Map” -and tremble.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="container" id="Illoii-3"> -<img src="images/ii_illo168.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">SNAY BIN AMIR’S HOUSE.</p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-155">[155]</span></p> - -<div class="container w40em" id="Illoii-11"> - -<img src="images/ii_illo169.jpg" alt="" /> - -<div class="split3367"> - -<div class="left3367"> -<p class="caption">Mganga, or medicine man.</p> -</div><!--left3367--> - -<div class="right3367"> - -<div class="split5050"> - -<div class="left5050"> -<p class="caption">The porter.</p> -</div><!--left5050--> - -<div class="right5050"> -<p class="caption">The Kirangozi, or guide.</p> -</div><!--right5050--> - -</div><!--split5050--> - -</div><!--right3367--> - -</div><!--split3367--> - -<div class="split5050"> - -<div class="left5050"> -<p class="caption right padr4 blankbefore75">Muinyi Kidogo.</p> -</div><!--left5050--> - -<div class="right5050"> -<p class="caption left padl4 blankbefore75">Mother and child.</p> -</div><!--right5050--> - -<p class="thinline allclear"> </p> - -</div><!--split5050--> - -</div><!--container--> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapno">CHAP. XVI.</span><br /> -<span class="chapname">WE RETURN TO UNYANYEMBE.</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p class="noindent">Immediately after the arrival of our caravan I made -preparations for quitting Ujiji. The 26th May, 1858, -was the day appointed for our departure, which was -fated to resemble a flight more than the march of a -peaceful Expedition. Said bin Salim, who had received -as “Urangozi” or retaining-fee from his two African -“brothers,” Lurinda and Kannena, a boy-slave and a -youth, thought only of conveying them safely out of the -country. The Baloch, especially the Jemadar, who had -invested every cubit of cloth and every ounce of -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-156">[156]</span> -powder in serviles, were also trembling at the prospect -of desertion. As usual, when these barbarians see -preparations for departure, the Wajiji became more extortionate -and troublesome than before. A general -drinking-bout had followed the return of the crews from -Uvira: Kannena had not been sober for a fortnight. At -last his succession of violent and maudlin fits ended -fortunately for us in a high fever, which somewhat -tamed his vice. Shortly after our disappearance, his -territory was attacked by the predal Watuta: and had -not the Arabs assisted in its defence, it would doubtless -have been converted into a grisly solitude, like the once -fertile and populous Uhha. Kannena, of course, fled -into the mountains from the attack of the gallant -rascals: he had courage enough to bully, but not to -fight. I heard of him no more: he showed no pity to -the homeless stranger,—may the world show none to -him!</p> - -<p>I shall long remember the morning of the 26th May, -which afforded me the last sunrise-spectacle of the -Tanganyika Lake. The charm of the scenery was -perhaps enhanced by the reflection that my eyes might -never look upon it again. Masses of brown-purple -clouds covered the quarter of the heavens where the -sun was about to rise. Presently the mists, ruffled like -ocean billows, and luminously fringed with Tyrian -purple, were cut by filmy rays, whilst, from behind their -core, the internal living fire shot forth its broad beams, -like the spokes of a huge aërial wheel, rolling a flood of -gold over the light blue waters of the lake. At last -Dan Sol, who at first contented himself with glimmering -through the cloud-mass, disclosed himself in his glory, -and dispersed with a glance the obstacles of the vapourous -earth: breaking into long strata and little pearly -flakes, they soared high in the empyrean, whilst the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-157">[157]</span> -all-powerful luminary assumed undisputed possession of -earth, and a soft breeze, the breath of the morn, as it -is called in the East, awoke the waters into life.</p> - -<p>But I am not long to enjoy this mighty picture. A -jarring din sings in my ears, contrasting strangely with -the beautiful world before my eyes. A crowd of newly-engaged -Pagazi are standing before me in the ecstasy of -impatience: some poised like cranes upon the right foot, -with the left sole placed against the knee, others with -their arms thrown in a brotherly fashion round neighbours’ -necks, whilst others squatted in the usual Asiatic -and African position, with their posteriora resting upon -their calves and heels, their elbows on their thighs, and -their chins propped upon their hands, gazed at me with -that long longing look which in these lands evidences a -something sorely wanted. Presently, from Said bin -Majid’s home-bound caravan, with which I had consented -to travel, shots and a popping of muskets rang through -the air: the restless crowd that still watched me appeared -at the sound of this signal to lose their wits. -In a moment the space before the Tembe was cleared. -After a few moments, Said bin Salim ran up violently -excited, declaring that his orders were of no avail, that -some parties were starting with, and others without, -their loads, and that no man would take up the burden -assigned to him on the yesterday. I directed him to -compose himself, and since he could not remain, to precede -me with the headstrong gang as far as the Ruche -River—the first stage—whence he would send back, as -soon as possible, a few men bribed to carry my hammock -and to remove the loose loads scattered upon the -ground. These, as usual on such occasions, were our -own. He departed greatly delighting in the opportunity -of escaping further trouble, and of driving off his -six wild slaves in safety: true to his inconsequential -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-158">[158]</span> -Arabo-African blood, however, neglecting the appointed -station in the eagerness of hurry, he marched on with -Said bin Majid’s men to at least double the distance, -thus placing himself out of Kannena’s reach, and -throwing all my arrangements into direst confusion.</p> - -<p>Meanwhile, having breakfasted, we sat till the afternoon -in the now empty and deserted Tembe, expecting -the return of the slaves. As none appeared, I was -induced by the utter misery depicted in the countenances -of the Baloch, and trusting that the return-porters -would meet us on the way, to give orders for a -march about 4 <span class="smcapall">P.M.</span>, to mount my manchil, and to set -out carried by only two men. Scarcely had I left the -Tembe when a small party, headed by Said bin Salim’s -four children, passed by me at speed. Though summoned -to halt, they sped onwards, apparently intending -to fetch the loads from the house, and thus to relieve -those left behind as a guard; it proved afterwards that -they were bound for the bazar to buy plantains for their -patroon. Meanwhile, hurrying on with one Baloch, the -astute Gul Mohammed, Valentine, and three sons of -Ramji, as the shades of evening closed around us, we -reached, without guide or direction from the surly -villagers, the ferry of the Ruche River. Disappointed -at not finding the camp at the place proposed, we were -punted across the Styx-like stream; and for what reason -no man could say, the party took the swampy road along -the Bay of Ukaranga. The mosquitos stung like -wasps; the loud spoutings and the hollow bursts of -bellow, snort, and grunt of the hippopotami—in these -lands they are brave as the bulls of the Spanish sierras—and -the roar of the old male crocodile startled the -party, whilst the porters had difficulty in preserving -their balance as they waded through water waist-deep, -and crept across plains of mud, mire, and sea-ooze.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-159">[159]</span></p> - -<p>As the darkness rendered the march risky, I gave the -word, when arrived at a bunch of miserable huts, for a -bivouac; the party, had I permitted it, would have -wandered through the outer glooms without fixed purpose -till permanently bogged. We spread our bedding -upon the clear space between the cane-cones acting -hovels, and we snatched, under a resplendent moon, and -a dew that soaked through the blankets, a few hours of -sleep, expecting to be aroused by a guide and porters -before the end of night. Gaetano had preceded us with -the provisions and the <i>batterie de cuisine</i>; we were -destitute even of tobacco, and we looked forward expectantly -to the march. But the dawn broke, and -morning flashed over the canopy above, and the sun -poured his hot rays through the cool, clear air, still we -found ourselves alone. The sons of Ramji, and the -others composing our party, had gradually disappeared, -leaving with us only Gul Mohammed. Taking -heart of grace, we then cleared out a hut, divided the -bedding, lay down in the patience of expectation, and -dined on goat. Our neighbour afforded us some food -for the mind. Apparently an Androgyne, she had the -voice, the look, and the thorax of a man, whilst the dress -and the manner argued her to be a woman; it was the -only approach to the dubious sex seen by me in East -Africa.</p> - -<p>About 2 <span class="smcapall">P.M.</span> appeared Ramazan and Salman, children -of Said bin Said, with four porters, an insufficient -supply for the long and trying march which they -described. They insisted upon our enduring the heat -and labour of the day so energetically, that they were -turned with ignominy out of the village, and were told -to send their master to escort us in the evening or on -the morning of the next day. Accordingly at 9 <span class="smcapall">A.M.</span> of -the 28th May appeared Said bin Salim and the Jemadar, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-160">[160]</span> -escorted by a full gang of bearers. The former, -bursting with irritation, began that loud speaking which -in the East is equivalent to impertinence; he was easily -silenced by a more explosive and an angrier tone of voice. -Having breakfasted, we set out leisurely, and after rejoining -Said bin Majid’s party we advanced until evening -fell upon us at the end of the first day’s stage.</p> - -<p>I have related the tale of our departure from the -Tanganyika somewhat circumstantially: it was truly -characteristic of Arab travelling in Eastern Africa. -Said bin Salim had scant cause for hurry: slaves rarely -desert on the day of departure; knowing themselves to -be watched they wait their opportunity, and find it -perhaps—as our caravan discovered to its loss—a week -or two afterwards. The Arab was determined to gain a -few miles by passing the appointed station; he did so, -and he lost two days. In his haste and dread of delay, -he had neglected to lay in salt, ghee, or any other stores -for the road but grain: consequently he was detained -at half a dozen places to procure them. Finally, -his froward children, who had done their utmost -to waste time in the bazar, were not reproved, much -less punished. Truly the half-caste Arab of Zanzibar -is almost as futile as the slavish moiety of his -ancestry.</p> - -<p>There was little novelty in our return-march to -Unyamyembe. We took the northerly route, crossing and -skirting the lower spurs of the mountains which form -the region of Uhha. During the first few stages, -being still within the influence of that bag of Æolus, the -Tanganyika trough, we endured tornados of wind and -heavy rain, thunder and lightning. After the 5th -March the threatening clouds drew off, the dank heavy -dew diminished, and the weather became clear and hot, -with a raw cold eastern wind pouring through the tepid -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-161">[161]</span> -temperature, and causing general sickness. On the -29th May we pitched at Uyonwa, a little settlement of -Wabuha, who have already raised crops of sweet -potatoes; if they have the sense to avoid keeping cattle, -the only attraction to the robber Watuta, they may -once more convert the sad waste of Uhha, a wilderness -where men are now wolves to one another, into a land -smiling with grains and fruits. Beyond Uyonwa we -hurried over “neat-tongue” hills, separated by green -swamps and black rivulets, with high woody banks, over -jungle paths thick with spear and tiger grass, brambly -bush and tall growths of wild arrowroot, and over a -country for the most part rough and rugged, with here -and there an acacia-barren, a bamboo-clump, or a lone -Palmyra. Approaching the Rusugi River, which we -forded on the 1st June at the upper or Parugerero -passage, the regular succession of ridge and swamp -gave way to a dry, stony, and thorny slope, rolling with -an eastward decline. We delayed for an hour at the -Salt-pass, to lay in a supply of the necessary, and the -temptation to desert became irresistible. Muhabanya, -the “slavey” of the establishment, ran away, carrying -off his property and my hatchet. The Jemadar was -rendered almost daft by the disappearance of half of his -six slaves. A Mnyamwezi porter placed his burden—it -was a case of Cognac and vinegar, deeply regretted!—upon -the ground, and levanted. Two other porters lost -their way, and disappeared for some days; their comrades, -standing in awe of the Wavinza, would not venture -in search of them. The Kirangozi or Mnyamwezi -guide, who had accompanied the Expedition from the -coast, remained behind, because his newly-purchased -slave-girl had become foot-sore, and unable to advance; -finding the case hopeless, he cut off her head, lest of his -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-162">[162]</span> -evil good might come to another. The party gave the -usual amount of trouble. The bull-headed Mabruki -had invested his capital in a small servile, an infant -phenomenon, who, apparently under six years, trotted -manfully alongside the porters, bearing his burden of -hide-bed and water-gourd upon his tiny shoulder. For -some days he was to his surly master as her first doll to -a young girl: when tired he was mounted upon the -back, and after crossing every swamp his feet were carefully -wiped. When the novelty, however, wore off, the -little unfortunate was so savagely beaten that I insisted -upon his being committed to the far less hard-hearted -Bombay. The Hanmals who carried my manchil were -the most annoying of their kind. Wanyamwezi veterans -of the way (their chief man wore a kizbao or waistcoat, -and carried an old Tower musket), originally five in -number, and paid in advance as far as Unyanyembe; -they deserted slowly and surely, till it was necessary to -raise a fresh gang. For a short time they worked well, -then they fell off. In the mornings when their names -were called they hid themselves in the huts, or they -squatted pertinaciously near the camp fires, or they -rushed ahead of the party. On the road they hurried -forwards, recklessly dashing the manchil, without pity -or remorse, against stock and stone. A man allowed -to lag behind never appeared again on that march, and -more than once they attempted to place the hammock -on the ground and to strike for increase of wages, till -brought to a sense of their duty by a sword-point applied -to their ribs. They would halt for an hour to -boil their sweet potatoes, but if I required the delay of -five minutes, or the advance of five yards, they became -half mad with fidgetiness; they were as loud-voiced, -noisy and insolent, as turbulent and irritable, as grumbling, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-163">[163]</span> -importunate, and greedy specimens of the genus -<i>homo</i>, species <i>Africanus</i>, as I have ever seen, even -amongst the “sons of water” in the canoes of Ujiji. -In these lands, however, the traveller who cannot utilise -the raw material that comes to hand will make but -little progress.</p> - -<p>On the 2nd June we fell into our former route at -Jambeho, in the alluvial valley of the Malagarazi River. -The party was pitched in two places by the mismanagement -of Said bin Salim; already the porters began to -raise loud cries of Posho! (provaunt!) and their dread -of the Wavinza increased as they approached the -Malagarazi Ferry. The land in the higher levels was -already drying up, the vegetation had changed from -green to yellow, and the strips of grassy and tree-clad -rock, buttressing the left bank of the river, afforded -those magnificent spectacles of conflagration which have -ever been favourite themes with the Indian <span class="nowrap">muse:—</span></p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - -<div class="stanza"> -<span class="verse indent18">“silence profound<br /></span> -<span class="verse indent0">Enwraps the forest, save where bubbling springs<br /></span> -<span class="verse indent0">Gush from the rock, or where the echoing hills<br /></span> -<span class="verse indent0">Give back the tiger’s roar, or where the boughs<br /></span> -<span class="verse indent0">Burst into crackling flame and wide extends<br /></span> -<span class="verse indent0">The blaze the Dragon’s fiery breath has kindled.”<br /></span> -</div><!--stanza--> - -</div><!--poetry--> -</div><!--poetry-container--> - -<p class="poemcredit"><span class="smcap">Wilson</span>’s <i>Uttara Rama Cheritra</i>, act 2.</p> - -<p class="noindent">A sheet of flame, beginning with the size of a spark, -overspread the hill-side, advancing on the wings of the -wind, with the roaring rushing sound of many hosts -where the grass lay thick, shooting huge forky tongues -high into the dark air, where tall trees, the patriarchs -of the forest, yielded their lives to the blast, smouldering -and darkening, as if about to be quenched where the -rock afforded scanty fuel, then flickering, blazing up -and soaring again till topping the brow of the hill, the -sheet became a thin line of fire, and gradually vanished -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-164">[164]</span> -from the view, leaving its reflection upon the canopy of -lurid smoke studded with sparks and bits of live braise, -which marked its descent on the other side of the buttress. -Resuming our march along the cold and foggy -vale of the Malagarazi, and crossing on the third day -the stony slabby hills that bound the fluviatile plain -northward, we reached, on the 4th June, the dreaded -ferry-place of the river.</p> - -<p>The great Malagarazi still swollen, though the rains -had ceased, by the surplus moisture of the sopped earth, -had spread its wide heart of shallow waters, variegated -with narrow veins—a deeper artery in the centre -showing the main stream—far over the plain. Thus -offering additional obstacles to crossing, it was turned -to good account by the Mutware, the Lord of the Ferry. -On arrival at the Kraal overlooking the river I summoned -this Charon, who demanded as his preliminary -obolus one pot of oil, seven cloths, and 300 khete -of blue porcelains. Said bin Majid, our companion, -paid about one-fifth the sum. But the Kraal was -uncomfortable, we were stung out by armies of ants; -a slight earthquake, at 11.15 <span class="smcapall">A.M.</span>, on the 4th June, -appeared a bad omen to Said bin Salim: briefly, I was -compelled to countenance the extortion. On the next -morning we set out, having been cannily preceded by -Said bin Majid. Every difficulty was thrown in the -way of our boxes and baggage. Often, when I refused -the exorbitant sum of four and even five khete per load, -the fellows quietly poled off, squatted in their canoes, -and required to be summoned back by Said bin Salim -with the abjectest concessions. They would not take -on board a Goanese or a Baloch without extra pay, and -they landed, under some pretext, Said bin Salim and the -Jemadar upon a dry knoll in the waste of waters, and -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-165">[165]</span> -demanded and received a cloth before they would rescue -them. In these and kindred manœuvres nearly seven -hours were expended; no accidents, however, occurred, -and at 4 <span class="smcapall">P.M.</span> we saw ourselves, with hearts relieved -of some load, once more at Ugogo, on the left bank of -the river. I found my companion, who had preceded -me, in treaty for the purchase of a little pig; fortunately -the beads would not persuade the porters to part with -it, consequently my pots escaped pollution.</p> - -<p>An eventless march of twelve days led from the Malagarazi -Ferry to Unyanyembe. Avoiding the <i>détour</i> to -Msene we followed this time the more direct southern -route. I had expected again to find the treacle-like -surface over which we had before crept, and perhaps even -in a worse state; but the inundations compelled the -porters to skirt the little hills bounding the swamps. -Provisions—rice, holcus and panicum, manioc, cucumbers -and sweet potatoes, pulse, ground-nuts, and -tobacco—became plentiful as we progressed; the -arrowroot and the bhang plant flourished wild, and -plantains and palmyras were scattered over the land. -On the 8th June, emerging from inhospitable Uvinza -into neutral ground, we were pronounced to be out of -danger, and on the next day, when in the meridian of -Usagozi, we were admitted for the first time to the -comfort of a village. Three days afterwards we separated -from Said bin Majid. Having a valuable store -of tusks, he had but half loaded his porters; he also -half fed them: the consequence was that they marched -like mad men, and ours followed like a flock of sheep. -He would not incur the danger and expense of visiting -a settlement, and he pitched in the bush, where provisions -were the least obtainable. When I told him -that we must part company, he deprecated the measure -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-166">[166]</span> -with his stock statement, viz. that at the distance of -an hour’s march there was a fine safe village full of -provisions, and well fitted for a halt. The hour’s -march proved a long stage of nearly sixteen miles, over -a remarkably toilsome country, a foul jungle with tsetse-haunted -thorn-bushes, swamps, and inundated lands, -ending at a wretched cluster of huts, which could -supply nothing but a tough old hen. I was sorry to -part with the Arab merchant, a civil man, and a well-informed, -yet somewhat addicted to begging like all his -people. His marching freaks, however, were unendurable, -dawdling at the beginning of the journey, rushing -through the middle, and lagging at the end. We -afterwards passed him on the road, of course he had -been delayed, and subsequently, during a long halt at -Unyanyembe, he frequently visited me.</p> - -<p>On the 17th June the caravan, after sundry difficulties, -caused by desertion, passed on to Irora the village -of Salim bin Salih, who this time received us hospitably -enough. Thence we first sighted the blue hills of Unyanyembe, -our destination. The next day saw us at -Yombo, where, by good accident, we met a batch of seven -cloth-bales and one box <i>en route</i> to Ujiji, under charge -of our old enemy Salim bin Sayf of Dut’humi. My -complaint against “Msopora,” forwarded from Zuryomero, -had, after Lieut.-Col. Hamerton’s decease, on -the 5th July 1857, been laid by M. Cochet, Consul de -France, before H. M. the Sayyid Majid,—a fact which -accounts for the readiness with which our effects were on -this occasion delivered up, and for the non-appearance -of the individual in person. We also received the -second packet of letters which reached us during that -year: as usual, they-were full of evil news. Almost -every one had lost some relation or friend near and dear -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-167">[167]</span> -to him: even Said bin Salim’s hearth had been spoiled -of its chief attraction, an only son, who, born it was -supposed in consequence of my “barakat” (propitious -influence), had been named Abdullah. Such tidings are -severely felt by the wanderer who, living long behind -the world, and unable to mark its gradual changes, lulls, -by dwelling upon the past, apprehension into a belief -that his home has known no loss, and who expects -again to meet each old familiar face ready to smile -upon his return as it was to weep at his departure.</p> - -<p>After a day’s halt to collect porters at Yombo, we -marched from it on the 20th June, and passing the -scene of our former miseries, the village under the -lumpy hill, “Zimbili,” we re-entered Kazeh. There I -was warmly welcomed by the hospitable Snay bin Amir, -who, after seating us to coffee, as is the custom, for a -few minutes in his Barzah or ante-room, led us to the -old abode, which had been carefully repaired, swept, -and plastered. There a large metal tray bending under -succulent dishes of rice and curried fowl, giblets and -manioc boiled in the cream of the ground-nut, and -sugared omelets flavoured with ghee and onion shreds, -presented peculiar attractions to half-starved travellers.</p> - -<p>Our return from Ujiji to Unyanyembe was thus -accomplished in twenty-two stations, which, halts included, -occupied a total of twenty-six days, from the -26th May to the 20th June 1858, and the distance -along the road may be computed at 265 statute -miles.</p> - -<p>After a day’s repose at Kazeh, I was called upon, -as “etiquette” directs, by the few Arab merchants there -present. Musa Mzuri, the Indian, was still absent at -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-168">[168]</span> -Karagwah, and the greater part of the commercial body -was scattered in trading-trips over the country. I -had the satisfaction of finding that my last indent on -Zanzibar for 400 dollars’ worth of cloth and beads -had arrived under the charge of Tani bin Sulayyam, -who claimed four Gorah or pieces for safe conduct. I -also recovered, though not without some display of -force, the table and chair left by the escort and the -slaves in the Dungomaro Nullah. The articles had been -found by one Muinyi Khamisi, a peddling and not over-honest -Msawahili, who demanded an unconscionable -sum for porterage, and whose head-piece assumed the -appearance of a coal-scuttle when rewarded with the six -cloths proposed by Snay bin Amir. The debauched -Wazira, who had remained behind at Msene, appeared -with an abundance of drunken smiles, sideling in at the -doorway, which he scratched <i>more Africano</i> with one -set of five nails, whilst the other was applied to a similar -purpose <i>à posteriori</i>. He was ejected, despite his loud -asseverations that he, and he only, could clear us through -the dangerous Wagogo. The sons of Ramji, who, -travelling from Msene, had entered Kazeh on the day -preceding our arrival, came to the house <i>en masse</i>, -headed by Kidogo, with all the jaunty and <i>sans-souci</i> -gait and manner of yore. I had imagined that by that -time they would have found their way to the coast. -I saw no reason, however, for re-engaging them, -and they at once returned to the gaieties of their -capital.</p> - -<p>During the first week following the march all paid -the inevitable penalty of a toilsome trudge through a -perilous jungly country, in the deadliest season of the -year, when the waters are drying up under a fiery sun, -and a violent <i>vent de bise</i> from the East, which pours -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-169">[169]</span> -through the tepid air like cold water into a warm bath. -Again I suffered severely from swelling and numbness -of the extremities, and strength returned by tantalisingly -slow degrees. My companion was a martyr to obstinate -deafness and to a dimness of vision, which incapacitated -him from reading, writing, and observing correctly. -Both the Goanese were prostrated by fever, followed by -severe rheumatism and liver-pains. In the case of Valentine, -who, after a few hours lay deprived of sense and -sensation, quinine appearing useless—the malady only -changed from a quotidian to a tertian type—I resolved -to try the Tinctura Warburgii, which had been used with -such effect by Lieut.-Col. Hamerton at Zanzibar. “O -true apothecary!” The result was quasi-miraculous. -The anticipated paroxysm did not return; the painful -emetism at once ceased; instead of a death-like lethargy, -a sweet childish sleep again visited his aching eyes, and, -chief boon of all to those so affected, the corroding -thirst gave way to an appetite, followed by sound if not -strong digestion. Finally, the painful and dangerous -consequences of the disease were averted, and the subsequent -attacks were scarcely worthy of notice. I feel -bound in justice, after a personal experiment, which -ended similarly, to pay this humble tribute of gratitude -to Dr. Warburg’s invaluable discovery. The Baloch, in -their turn, yielded to the effects of malaria, many complained -of ulcerations and prurigo, and their recovery -was protracted by a surfeit of food and its consequences. -But, under the influence of narcotics, tonics, and stimulants, -we presently progressed towards convalescence; -and stronger than any physical relief, in my case, was -the moral effect of success, and the cessation of the -ghastly doubts and cares, and of the terrible wear and -tear of mind which, from the coast to Uvira, had never -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-170">[170]</span> -been absent. I felt the proud consciousness of having -done my best, under conditions from beginning to end -the worst and the most unpromising, and that whatever -future evils Fate might have in store for me, that it -could not rob me of the meed won by the hardships -and sufferings of the past.</p> - -<p>Several Arab merchants were preparing to return -coastwards for the “Mausim” (monsoon), or Indian -trading-season, which, at Zanzibar, includes the months -of December, January, and February, and they were -not unwilling to avail themselves of my escort. But -several reasons detained me at Kazeh. Some time was -required to make preparations for the long down march. -I had not given up the project of returning to the seaboard -<i>viâ</i> Kilwa. Moreover, it was judged advisable -to collect from the Arabs details concerning the interesting -countries lying to the north and south of the -line traversed by the Expedition. As has been mentioned -in Chap. XI., the merchants had detailed to -me, during my first halt at Kazeh, their discovery of a -large Bahr—a sea or lake—lying fifteen or sixteen -marches to the north; and from their descriptions and -bearings, my companion had laid down the water in -a hand-map forwarded to the Royal Geographical -Society. All agreed in claiming for it superiority of -size over the Tanganyika Lake. I saw at once that -the existence of this hitherto unknown basin would -explain many discrepancies promulgated by speculative -geographers, more especially the notable and deceptive -differences of distances, caused by the confusion of the -two waters.<a id="FNanchorii8"></a><a href="#Footnoteii8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a> Remained only to ascertain if the Arabs -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-171">[171]</span> -had not, with the usual Oriental hyperbole, exaggerated -the dimensions of the Northern Lake.</p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnoteii8"></a><a href="#FNanchorii8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> -Mr. Erhardt, for instance, “Memoir on the Chart of East and Central -Africa, compiled by J. Erhardt and J. Rebmann, London, 1856,” announces -the “existence of a Great Lake, called in the south Niandsha (Nyassa), in -the north Ukerewe, and on the coast Niasa and Bahari ya Uniamesi,” -makes the distance through Dschaga (Chhaga) and the Masai plains only -fifty-nine marches.</p> - -</div><!--footnote--> - -<p>My companion, who had recovered strength from the -repose and the comparative comfort of our head-quarters, -appeared a fit person to be detached upon this duty; -moreover, his presence at Kazeh was by no means desirable. -To associate at the same time with Arabs and -Anglo-Indians, who are ready to take offence when it is -least intended, who expect servility as their due, and -whose morgue of colour induces them to treat all skins a -shade darker than their own as “niggers,” is even more -difficult than to avoid a rupture when placed between -two friends who have quarrelled with each other. Moreover, -in this case, the difficulty was exaggerated by the -Anglo-Indian’s complete ignorance of Eastern manners -and customs, and of any Oriental language beyond, at -least, a few words of the debased Anglo-Indian jargon.</p> - -<p>I have dwelt upon this subject because my companion -has thought proper to represent (in Blackwood, Oct. -1859) that I was “most unfortunately quite done up, -but most graciously consented to wait with the Arabs -and recruit health.” This is far from being the fact. I -had other and more important matter to work out. -Writing from the spot (Unyanyembe, 2nd July 1858, -and published in the Proceedings of the Royal Geographical -Society, 24th Jan. 1859) my companion represents -the case somewhat differently. “To diminish the -disappointment, caused by the short-coming of our cloth, -in not seeing the whole of the Sea Ujiji, I have proposed -to take a flying trip to the unknown lake, while Captain -Burton prepares for our return homewards.”</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-172">[172]</span></p> - -<p>On the 30th June the subject was brought forward -in the presence of Said bin Salim and the Baloch. The -former happily lodged at Kazeh, felt loath to tear himself -from the massive arms of his charmer Halimah. -He finessed as usual, giving an evasive answer, viz. -that he could not decide till the last day, and he -declined to influence the escort, who afterwards declared -that he had done all in his power to deter them from -the journey. In vain my companion threatened him -with forfeiture of his reward after he returned to Zanzibar; -in vain my companion told him that it was forfeited.<a id="FNanchorii9"></a><a href="#Footnoteii9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a> -He held firm, and I was not over-anxious in influencing -him, well knowing that though the Baloch, a stolid -race, might prove manageable, the brain of the Machiavellian -Arab, whose egregious selfishness never hesitated -at any measure calculated to ensure its gratification, -was of a somewhat too heavy metal for the article -opposed to it. That Said bin Salim attempted to thwart -the project I have no doubt. The Kirangozi, and the -fifteen porters hired from his village with the tempting -offer of five cloths per man, showed an amount of fear -and shirking hardly justified by the real risks of treading -so well known a tract. The Jemadar and his men -at first positively refused their escort, but the meaning -word “Bakhshish” slipping in reassured me. After -informing them that in case of recusancy their rations -should be stopped, I inquired the amount of <i>largesse</i> -expected. The ten efficient men composing the guard -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-173">[173]</span> -demanded fifteen cloths a piece, besides one porter each -to carry their matchlocks and pervanents. The number -of the porters was reduced, the cloth was procured from -an Arab merchant, Sayf bin Said el Wardi, at an expense -of one hundred dollars, made payable by draught upon -Ladha Damha of Zanzibar: at the same time, the Baloch -were warned that they must option between this and the -reward conditionally promised to them after return.<a id="FNanchorii10"></a><a href="#Footnoteii10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a> -Their bad example was followed by the old and faithful -servant “Bombay,” who required instant dismissal unless -he also received cloth before the journey: he was -too useful to my companion as interpreter and steward -to be lightly parted with. But the granting his claim -led to a similar strike and menace on the part of the -bull-headed slave Mabruki, who, being merely a “headache” -to me, at once “got the sack” till he promised, -if pardoned, to shake off his fear, and not to be -naughty in future. By dint of severe exertion my -companion was enabled to leave Kazeh on the 10th -July.</p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnoteii9"></a><a href="#FNanchorii9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> -I transcribe the following words from my companion’s paper (Blackwood, -October 1859): “I urged that it was as much his (Said bin Salim’s) -duty as mine to go there; and said, unless he changed his present resolution, -I should certainly recommend the Government not to pay the gratuity which -the consul had promised him on condition that he worked entirely to our -satisfaction, in assisting the Expedition to carry out the Government’s -plans.”</p> - -<p><a id="Footnoteii10"></a><a href="#FNanchorii10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> -So my report printed in the Proceedings Roy. Geog. Soc. loco cit. “Our -asses, thirty in number, all died, our porters ran away, our goods were left -behind; our black escort became so unmanageable as to require dismissal; the -weakness of our party invited attacks, and our wretched Baloch deserted us -in the jungle, and throughout have occasioned an infinity of trouble.”</p> - -</div><!--footnote--> - -<p>I proceed to recount the most important portion -of the information—for ampler details the reader is -referred to the Journal of the Royal Geographical -Society—collected during my halt at Kazeh from various -sources, Arab and African, especially from Snay bin -Amir, concerning—</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-174">[174]</span></p> - -<h3>THE NORTHERN KINGDOMS: KARAGWAH, UGANDA, -AND UNYORO.</h3> - -<p class="noindent">The extensive and hitherto unknown countries described -in this chapter, being compact despotisms, resembling -those of Ashanti and Dahomey more than the -semi-monarchies of Unyamwezi and Urundi, or the -barbarous republics of Uvinza and Ujiji, are designated -the Northern Kingdoms. It is regrettable that oral -information, and not the results of actual investigation, -are offered to the reader concerning regions so interesting -as the Southern Tanganyika, the Northern Kingdoms, -and the provinces south of Unyanyembe. But -absolute obstacles having interfered, it was judged -advisable to use the labours of others rather than to -omit all notice of a subject which has the importance -of novelty, because it lacked the advantages of a regular -exploration.</p> - -<p>Informants agree in representing the northern races -as superior in civilisation and social constitution to the -other tribes of Eastern and Central Africa. Like the -subjects of the Kazembe, they have built extensive and -regular settlements, and they reverence even to worship -a single despot, who rules with a rigour which in Europe -would be called barbarity. Having thrown off the rude -equality of their neighbours, they recognise ranks in -society; there is order amongst men, and some idea of -honour in women; they add to commerce credit, without -which commerce can hardly exist; and they hospitably -entertain strangers and guests. These accounts -are confirmed by the specimens of male and female -slaves from Karagwah and Uganda seen at Unyanyembe: -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-175">[175]</span> -between them and the southern races there is -a marked physical difference. Their heads are of a -superior cast: the regions where the reflective faculties -and the moral sentiments, especially benevolence, are -placed, rise high; the nose is more of the Caucasian -type; the immoderate masticating apparatus which -gives to the negro and the lower negroid his peculiar -aspect of animality, is greatly modified, and the expression -of the countenance is soft, kindly, and not deficient -in intelligence.</p> - -<p>From Unyanyembe to Kibuga, the capital of Uganda, -are fifty-three stages, which are distributed into four -crucial stations of Usui, Karagwah, dependent Unyoro, -and Uganda. A few remarks concerning each of these -divisions may not be unacceptable.</p> - -<p>Between Unyanyembe and Usui are sixteen long, or -nineteen short, stages. Though the road is for the -most part rough and hilly, the marches can scarcely be -reduced below ten statute, or six rectilinear geo. miles -per diem; in fact, the geographer’s danger when making -these estimates is, that of falling, through fear of exaggeration, -into the opposite and equally incorrect extreme. -The general direction of the line leading from Kazeh, -in Unyanyembe, to Karagwah, pointed out by Snay -bin Amir, bore 345° (corrected 332°); the length of -the nineteen marches would be about 115 geo. miles. -The southern frontier of Usui may, therefore, be safely -placed in S. lat. 3° 10′.</p> - -<p>The route from Kazeh to Usui falls at once westward -of the line leading to the Nyanza Lake; it diverges, -however, but little at first, as they both traverse the -small districts of Ulikampuri, Unyambewa, and Ukuni. -Usonga, crossed in five short marches, is the first considerable -district north of Unyanyembe. Thence the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-176">[176]</span> -road enters the province of Utumbara, which is flanked -on the east by Usambiro, and on the west by Uyungu, -governed by the Muhinda Sultan, Kanze. Utumbara, -as has been mentioned, was lately plundered, and -Ruhembe, its chief, was slain, by the predatory Watuta. -In Utumbara and Usambiro the people are chiefly the -Wafyoma, a tribe of Wanyamwezi: they are a commercial -race, like the Wajiji—trafficking in hoes and ivory; -and their present Sultan, Mutawazi, has often been -visited by the Arabs. Uyofu, governed by Mnyamurunda, -is the northern boundary of Unyamwezi, after -which the route enters the ill famed territory of -Usui.</p> - -<p>Usui is traversed in seven marches, making a sum of -twenty-six from Kazeh. According to the former computation, -a total march of about 156 geo. miles would -place the southern frontier of Karagwah in S. lat. 2° 40′. -The road in several parts discloses a view of the Nyanza -Lake. Usui is described as a kind of neutral ground -between the rolling plateau of Unyamwezi and the -highlands of Karagwah: it is broken by ridges in two -places—Nyakasene the fourth, and Ruhembe the -seventh stage, where mention is also made of a small -stream. From this part of the country a wild nutmeg -is brought to Kazeh by caravans: the Arabs declare -that it grows upon the well-wooded hills, and the only -specimen shown was heavy and well flavoured, presenting -a marked contrast to the poor produce of Zanzibar -island.</p> - -<p>The Wasúí, according to the Arabs, are not Wanyamwezi. -They are considered dangerous, and they -have frequently cut off the route to caravans from -Karagwah. Their principal sultan, a Muhinda named -Suwarora, demands exorbitant blackmail, and is described -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-177">[177]</span> -as troublesome and overbearing: his bad example -has been imitated by his minor chiefs.</p> - -<p>The kingdom of Karagwah, which is limited on the -north by the Kitangure or Kitangule River, a great -western influent of the Nyanza Lake, occupies twelve -days in traversing. The usual estimate would thus -give it a depth of 72, and place the northern limit -about 228 rectilinear geo. miles from Kazeh, or in -S. lat. 1° 40′. But the Kitangure River, according to -the Arabs, falls into the Nyanza diagonally from south-west -to north-east. Its embouchure will, therefore, not -be distant from the equator. The line of road is thus -described: After ascending the hills of Ruhembe the -route, deflecting eastward, pursues for three days the -lacustrine plain of the Nyanza. At Tenga, the fourth -station, the first gradient of the Karagwah mountains is -crossed, probably at low levels, where the spurs fall -towards the lake. Kafuro is a large district where -merchants halt to trade, in the vicinity of Weranhánjá, -the royal settlement, which commands a distant view of -the Nyanza. Nyakahanga, the eighth stage, is a -gradient similar to that of Tenga; and Magugi, the -tenth station, conducts the traveller to the northernmost -ridge of Karagwah. The mountains are described as -abrupt and difficult, but not impracticable for laden -asses: they are compared by the Arabs to the Rubeho -chain of Usagara. This would raise them about 4000 -feet above the mean level of the Unyamwezi plateau -and the Nyanza water, and about 8000 feet above this -sea. Their surface, according to the Arabs, is alternately -earth and stone, the former covered with plantains -and huge timber-trees, the latter bare, probably by -reason of their altitude. There are no plains, bush, or -jungle, but the deep ravines and the valleys intersecting -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-178">[178]</span> -the various ridges drain the surface of the hills, and are -the sites of luxuriant cultivation. The people of Karagwah, -averse to the labour of felling the patriarchs -of the forest, burn “<i>bois de vache</i>,” like the natives of -Usukuma. North of Magugi, at Katanda, a broad flat -extends eastwards: the path thence descends the northern -counterslope, and falls into the alluvial plain of -the Kitungure River.</p> - -<p>Karagwah is thus a mass of highlands, bounded on -the north by dependent Unyoro, on the south by Usui, -eastward by the tribes of Wahayya and Wapororo, upon -the lacustrine plain of the Nyanza; on the south-west -it inosculates with Urundi, which has been described as -extending from the north-eastern extremity of the -Tanganyika Lake. Its equatorial position and its -altitude enable it to represent the Central African -prolongation of the Lunar Mountains. Ptolemy describes -this range, which he supposes to send forth -the White Nile, as stretching across the continent for -a distance of 10° of longitude. For many years this -traditional feature has somewhat fallen into discredit: -some geographers have changed the direction of the -line, which, like the Himalayas, forms the base of the -South African triangle from east and west to north and -south, thus converting it into a formation akin to the -ghauts or lateral ranges of the Indian peninsula; whilst -others have not hesitated to cast ridicule upon the -mythus. From the explorations of the “Mombas -Mission” in Usumbara, Chhaga, and Kitui, and from -the accounts of Arab visitors to the lands of Umasai -and the kingdom of Karagwah, it appears that from the -fifth parallel of S. lat. to the equator, an elevated mass -of granite and sandstone formation crosses from the -shores of the Indian Ocean to the centre of Tropical -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-179">[179]</span> -Africa. The vast limestone band which extends from -the banks of the Burramputra to those of the Tagus -appears to be prolonged as far south as the Eastern -Horn, and near the equator to give place to sandstone -formations. The line is not, however, as might -be expected from analogy with the Himalayan, a -continuous unbroken chain; it consists of insulated -mountains, apparently volcanic, rising from elevated -plains, and sometimes connected by barren and broken -ridges. The south-eastern threshold of the Lunar cordillera -is the highland region of Usumbara, which may -attain the height of 3000 or 4000 feet above sea-level. -It leads by a succession of mountain and valley to -Chhaga, whose apex is the “Æthiopian Olympus,” -Kilima-Ngao. From this corner-pillar the line trends -westward, and the route to Burkene passes along the -base of the principal elevations, Doengo Engai and -Endia Siriani. Beyond Burkene lies the Nyanza Lake, -in a huge gap which, breaking the continuity of the -line, drains the regions westward of Kilima-Ngao, -whilst those to the eastward, the Pangani and other -similar streams, discharge their waters to the south-east -into the Indian Ocean. The kingdom of Karagwah -prolongs the line to Urundi, upon the Tanganyika -Lake, where the south-western spurs of the Lunar -Mountains form a high continuous belt. Mr. Petherick, -of Khartum, travelling twenty-five marches, each of -twenty miles (?), in a south-south-western and due-southerly -direction from the Bahr el Ghazal, found a -granitic ridge rising, he supposes 2000 to 2500 feet -above the plain, near the equator, and lying nearly -upon the same parallel of latitude, and in about 27° E. -long. Beyond that point the land is still unexplored. -Thence the mountains may sink into the great Depression -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-180">[180]</span> -of Central Africa, or, deflected northwards of the -kingdom of Uropua, they may inosculate with the ridge -which, separating the northern negroid races of Islamised -Africa from their negro brethren to the south, is -popularly known, according to Denham and Clapperton, -as el-Gibel Gumhr,—Jebel Kamar,—or Mons Lunæ.</p> - -<p>The high woody hills of Karagwah attract a quantity -of rain. The long and copious wet monsoon divides -the year into two seasons—a winter of seven or eight, -and a summer of four or five months. The Vuli, or -lesser rains, commence, as at Zanzibar, with the Nayruz -(29th of August); and they continue with little intermission -till the burst of the Masika, which lasts in Karagwah -from October to May or June. The winds, as in -Unyamwezi, are the Kaskazi, or north and north-east -gales, which shift during the heavier falls of rain to the -Kosi, the west and south-west. Storms of thunder and -lightning are frequent, and the Arabs compare the -down-pour rather to that of Zanzibar island than to the -scanty showers of Unyamwezi. The sowing season at -Karagwah, as at Msene and Ujiji, begins with the -Vuli, when maize and millet, the voandzeia, various -kinds of beans and pulse, are committed to the well-hoed -ground. Rice being unknown, the people depend -much upon holcus: this cereal, which is sown in October -to prepare for the Masika in November, has, in -the mountains, a short cane and a poor insipid grain of -the red variety. The people convert it into pombe; -and they make the wine called mawa from the plantains, -which in several districts are more abundant than the -cereals. Karagwah grows according to some, according -to others imports from the northern countries, -along the western margin of the Nyanza Lake, a small -wild coffee, locally called mwámí. Like all wild productions, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-181">[181]</span> -it is stunted and undeveloped, and the bean, -which, when perfect, is about the size of a corking-pin’s -head, is never drunk in decoction. The berry gathered -unripe is thrown into hot water to defend it from rot, -or to prevent its drying too rapidly—an operation -which converts the husk to a dark chocolate colour—the -people of this country chew it like tobacco, and, -during visits, a handful is invariably presented to the -guest. According to the Arabs, it has, like the kishr -of Yemen, stimulating properties, affects the head, -prevents somnolency, renders water sweet to the taste, -and forms a pleasant refreshing beverage, which the -palate, however, never confounds with the taste of the -Mocha-berry. In Karagwah a single khete of beads -purchases a kubabah (from 1 lb. to 2 lbs.) of this -coffee; at Kazeh and Msene, where it is sometimes -brought by caravans, it sells at fancy prices. Another -well-known production of all these regions is the mt’hípít’hípí, -or Abrus precatorius, whose scarlet seeds are -converted into ornaments for the head.</p> - -<p>The cattle is a fine variety, with small humps and large -horns, like that of Ujiji and Uviva. The herds are -reckoned by Gundu, or stallions, in the proportion of -1 to 100 cows. The late Sultan Ndagara is said to -have owned 200 Gundu, or 20,000 cows, which late civil -wars have reduced to 12,000 or 13,000. In Karagwah -cattle forms wealth, and everywhere in Africa wealth, -and wealth only, secures defenders and dependants. -The surplus males are killed for beef; this meat, with -milk in its various preparations, and a little of the fine -white hill-honey, forms the food of the higher classes.</p> - -<p>The people of Karagwah, who are not, according to -South African fashion, called Wakaragwah, are divided -into two orders—Wahuma and Wanyambo—who seem -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-182">[182]</span> -to bear to each other the relation of patron and client, -patrician and plebeian. The Wahuma comprises the -rich, who sometimes possess 1000 head of cattle, and the -warriors, a militia paid in the milk of cows allotted to -their temporary use by the king. The Wanyambo—Fellahs -or Ryots—are, it is said, treated by the nobles -as slaves. The men of Karagwah are a tall stout race, -doubtless from the effect of pure mountain-air and -animal food. Corpulence is a beauty: girls are fattened -to a vast bulk by drenches of curds and cream thickened -with flour, and are duly disciplined when they refuse. -The Arabs describe them as frequently growing to a -monstrous size, like some specimens of female Boers -mentioned by early travellers in Southern Africa. -Fresh milk is the male, sour the female beverage. The -complexion is a brown yellow, like that of the Warundi. -The dress of the people, and even of the chiefs, is an -apron of close-grained mbugu, or bark-cloth, softened -with oil, and crimped with fine longitudinal lines made -with a batten or pounding club. In shape it resembles -the flap of an English saddle, tied by a prolongation of -the upper corners round the waist. To this scarcely -decent article the chiefs add a languti, or Indian-T-bandage -of goat’s skin. Nudity is not uncommon, and -nubile girls assume the veriest apology for clothing, -which is exchanged after marriage for short kilts and -breast coverings of skin. Both sexes wear tiara-shaped -and cravat-formed ornaments of the crimson abrus-seed, -pierced and strung upon mondo, the fine fibre of the -mwale or raphia-palm. The weapons are bows and -arrows, spears, knobsticks, and knives; the ornaments -are beads and coil-bracelets, which, with cattle, form -the marriage settlement. The huts are of the conical -and circular African shape, with walls of stakes -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-183">[183]</span> -and roofs so carefully thatched that no rain can penetrate -them: the villages, as in Usagara, are scattered -upon the crests and ridges of the hills.</p> - -<p>The Mkámá, or Sultan of Karagwah, in 1858, was -Armanika, son of Ndagara, who, although the dignity -is in these lands hereditary, was opposed by his younger -brother Rumanika. The rebel, after an obstinate -attack, was routed by Suna, the late despot of Uganda, -who, bribed by the large present of ivory, which was -advanced by Musa Mzuri of Kazeh, then trading with -Armanika, threw a large force into the field. Rumanika -was blinded and pensioned, and about four years ago -peace was restored. Armanika resides in the central -district, Weranhanja, and his settlement, inhabited only -by the royal family, contains from forty to fifty huts. -He is described as a man about thirty to thirty-five -years old, tall, sturdy, and sinewy-limbed, resembling -the Somal. His dress is, by preference, the mbugu, or -bark-cloth, but he has a large store of fine raiment -presented by his Arab visitors: in ornaments he is distinguished -by tight gaiters of beads extending from -knee to ankle. His diet is meat and milk, with sometimes -a little honey, plantains, and grain: unlike his -subjects, he eschews mawa and pombe. He has about -a dozen wives, an unusually moderate allowance for an -African chief, and they have borne him ten or eleven -children. The royal family is said to be a race of -centagenarians; they are buried in their garments, -sitting and holding their weapons: when the king dies -there is a funeral feast.</p> - -<p>Under the Mkama is a single minister, who takes the -title of Muhinda, and presides over the Wakungu, -elders and headmen, whose duty it is to collect and to -transmit to the monarch once every month his revenues, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-184">[184]</span> -in the shape of slaves and ivory, cattle and provisions. -Milk must be forwarded by proprietors of cows and -herds even from a distance of three days’ march. -Armanika is an absolute ruler, and he governs without -squeamishness. Adulterers are punished by heavy fines -in cattle, murderers are speared and beheaded, rebels -and thieves are blinded by gouging out the eyes with the -finger-joints of the right-hand, and severing the muscles. -Subjects are forbidden to sell milk to those who eat -beans or salt, for fear of bewitching the animals. The -Mkama, who lives without state or splendour, receives -travellers with courtesy. Hearing of their approach, he -orders his slaves to erect four or five tents for shelter, -and he greets them with a large present of provisions. -He demands no blackmail, but the offerer is valued -according to his offerings: the return gifts are carefully -proportioned, and for beads which suit his taste he has -sent back an acknowledgment of fifty slaves and forty -cows. The price of adult male slaves varies from eight -to ten fundo of white, green, or blue porcelain-beads: a -woman in her prime costs two kitindi (each equal to one -dollar on the coast), and five or six fundo of mixed -beasts. Some of these girls, being light-coloured and -well favoured, sell for sixty dollars at Zanzibar. The -merchants agree in stating that a European would receive -in Karagwah the kindest welcome, but that to -support the dignity of the white face a considerable -sum would be required. Arabs still visit Armanika to -purchase slaves, cattle, and ivory, the whitest and -softest, the largest and heaviest in this part of Central -Africa. The land is rich in iron, and the spears of -Karagwah, which are, to some extent, tempered, are -preferred to the rude work of the Wafyoma. Sulphur -is found, according to the Arabs, near hot springs -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-185">[185]</span> -amongst the mountains. A species of manatus (?) -supplies a fine skin used for clothing. The simbi, or -cowrie (Cypræa), is the minor currency of the country: -it is brought from the coast by return caravans of -Wanyamwezi.</p> - -<p>The country of Karagwah is at present the head-quarters -of the Watosi, a pastoral people who are scattered -throughout these Lake Regions. They came, -according to tradition, from Usingo, a mountain district -lying to the north of Uhha. They refuse to carry loads, -to cultivate the ground, or to sell one another. Harmless, -and therefore unarmed, they are often plundered, -though rarely slain, by other tribes, and they protect -themselves by paying fees in cattle to the chiefs. When -the Wahinda are sultans, the Watosi appear as councillors -and elders; but whether this rank is derived from -a foreign and superior origin, or is merely the price of -their presents, cannot be determined. In appearance -they are a tall, comely, and comparatively fair people; -hence in some parts every “distinguished foreigner” is -complimented by being addressed as “Mtosi.” They -are said to derive themselves from a single ancestor, and -to consider the surrounding tribes as serviles, from -whom they will take concubines, but to whom they -refuse their daughters. Some lodges of this people -were seen about Unyanyembe and Msene, where they -live by selling cattle, milk, and butter. Their villages -are poor, dirty, and unpalisaded; mere scatters of ragged -round huts. They have some curious practices: -never eat out of their own houses, and, after returning -from abroad, test, by a peculiar process, the fidelity of -their wives before anointing themselves and entering -their houses. The Arabs declare that they are known -by their black gums, which they consider a beauty.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-186">[186]</span></p> - -<p>The last feature of importance in Karagwah is the -Kitangure River on its northern frontier. This stream, -deriving its name from a large settlement on its banks, -according to some travellers flows through a rocky -trough, according to others it traverses a plain. Some, -again, make it thirty yards, others 600, and even half a -mile, in breadth. All these statements are reconcileable. -The river issues from Higher Urundi, not far from the -Malagarazi; but whilst the latter, engaged in the Depression -of Central Africa, is drawn towards the -Tanganyika, the former, falling into the counterslope, is -directed to the north-east into the Nyanza Lake. Its -course would thus lie through a mountain-valley, from -which it issues into a lacustrine plain, the lowlands of -Unyoro and Uganda. The dark and swift stream -must be crossed in canoes even during the dry season, -but, like the Malagarazi, about June or at the end of -the rains, it debords over the swampy lands of its -lower course.</p> - -<p>From the Kitangure River fifteen stations conduct -the traveller to Kibuga, the capital district of Uganda, -and the residence of its powerful despot. The maximum -of these marches would be six daily, or a total of -ninety rectilinear geographical miles. Though there -are no hills, the rivers and rivulets—said to be upwards -of a hundred in number—offer serious obstacles to -rapid travelling. Assuming then, the point where -the Kitangure River is crossed to be in S. lat. 1° -14′, Kibuga may be placed in S. lat. 0° 10′. Beyond -Weranhanja no traveller with claims to credibility has -seen the Nyanza water. North of Kibuga all is uncertain; -the Arabs were not permitted by Suna, the last -despot, to penetrate farther north.</p> - -<p>The two first marches from the Kitangure River -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-187">[187]</span> -traverse the territory of “dependent Unyoro,” so called -because it has lately become subject to the Sultan of -Uganda. In former times Unyoro in crescent-shape, -with the cusps fronting eastwards and westwards, almost -encompassed Uganda. From dependent Unyoro the -path, crossing a tract of low jungle, enters Uganda in -the concave of the crescent. The tributary Wahayya, -under Gaetawa, their sultan, still extend to the eastward. -North of the Wahayya, of whose territory little is -known, lies “Kittara,” in Kinyoro (or Kiganda?), a word -interpreted to mean “mart,” or “meeting-place.” This -is the region which supplies Karagwah with coffee. -The shrub is propagated by sowing the bean. It attains -the height of five feet, branching out about half-way; it -gives fruit after the third, and is in full vigour after the -fifth year. Before almost every hut-door there is a -plantation, forming an effective feature in the landscape -of rolling and wavy hill, intersected by a network of -rivers and streams: the foliage is compared to a green -tapestry veiling the ground; and at times, when the -leaves are stripped off by wind and rain, the plant -appears decked with brilliant crimson cherry-like -berries. The Katonga River, crossed at Kitutu, is supposed -to fall into the Nyanza, the general recipient of -the network of streams about Karagwah. This diagonality -may result from the compound incline produced -by the northern counterslope of the mountains of -Karagwah and the south-westward depression necessary -to form and to supply the lake. The Katonga is a -sluggish and almost stagnant body of considerable -breadth, and when swollen it arrests the progress of -caravans. Some portions of the river are crossed, -according to the Arabs, over a thick growth of aquatic -vegetation, which forms a kind of matwork, capable of -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-188">[188]</span> -supporting a man’s weight, and cattle are towed over -in the more open parts by cords attached to their horns. -Four stations lead from the Katonga River to Kibuga, -the capital district of Uganda.</p> - -<p>Kibuga is the residence of the great Mkámá or chief -of Uganda. Concerning its population and peculiarities -the Arabs must be allowed to tell their own tale. -“Kibuga, the settlement, is not less than a day’s journey -in length; the buildings are of cane and rattan. The -sultan’s palace is at least a mile long, and the circular -huts, neatly ranged in line, are surrounded by a strong -fence which has only four gates. Bells at the several -entrances announce the approach of strangers, and -guards in hundreds attend there at all hours. They -are commanded by four chiefs, who are relieved every -second day: these men pass the night under hides raised -upon uprights, and their heads are forfeited if they -neglect to attend to the summons of the king. The -harem contains about 3000 souls—concubines, slaves, -and children. No male nor adult animal may penetrate, -under pain of death, beyond the Barzah, a large vestibule -or hall of audience where the king dispenses justice -and receives his customs. This palace has often been -burned down by lightning: on these occasions the warriors -must assemble and extinguish the fire by rolling -over it. The chief of Uganda has but two wants with -which he troubles his visitors—one, a medicine against -death; the other, a charm to avert the thunderbolt: -and immense wealth would reward the man who could -supply either of these desiderata.”</p> - -<p>Suna, the great despot of Uganda, a warlike chief, -who wrested dependent Unyoro from its former possessor, -reigned till 1857. He perished in the prime of -life and suddenly, as the Arabs say, like Namrud, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-189">[189]</span> -whilst riding “pickaback”—the state carriage of -Central Africa—upon a minister’s shoulders, he was -struck by the shaft of the destroyer in the midst of -his mighty host. As is the custom of barbarous and -despotic races, the event was concealed for some months. -When the usual time had expired, one of his many -sons, exchanging his heir-elective name “Sámunjú” for -Mtesa, became king. The court usage compels the -newly elected chief to pass two years in retirement, -committing state affairs to his ministers; little, therefore, -is yet known of him. As he will certainly tread in the -footsteps of his sire, the Arabs may again be allowed to -describe the state and grandeur of the defunct Suna; -and as Suna was in fact the whole kingdom of Uganda, -the description will elucidate the condition of the people -in general.</p> - -<p>“The army of Uganda numbers at least 300,000 men; -each brings an egg to muster, and thus something like -a reckoning of the people is made. Each soldier carries -one spear, two assegais, a long dagger, and a shield, -bows and swords being unknown. When marching the -host is accompanied by women and children carrying -spare weapons, provisions, and water. In battle they -fight to the sound of drums, which are beaten with -sticks like those of the Franks: should this performance -cease, all fly the field. Wars with the Wanyoro, the -Wasoga, and other neighbours are rendered almost -chronic by the policy as well as the pleasure of the -monarch, and there are few days on which a foraging -party does not march from or return to the capital. -When the king has no foreign enemies, or when the -exchequer is indecently deficient, he feigns a rebellion, -attacks one of his own provinces, massacres the chief -men, and sells off the peasantry. Executions are -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-190">[190]</span> -frequent, a score being often slain at a time: when -remonstrated with concerning this barbarity, Sana -declared that he had no other secret for keeping his -subjects in awe of him, and for preventing conspiracies. -Sometimes the king would accompany his army to a -battue of game, when the warriors were expected to -distinguish themselves by attacking the most ferocious -beasts without weapons: even the elephant, borne -down by numbers, yielded to the grasp of man. When -passing a village he used to raise a shout, which was -responded to by a loud flourish of horns, reed-pipes, -iron whistles, and similar instruments. At times he -decreed a grand muster of his soldiery: he presented -himself sitting before his gate, with a spear in the right -hand, and holding in the left the leash of a large and -favourite dog resembling an Arab suluki or greyhound. -The master of the hounds was an important personage. -Suna took great pleasure in witnessing trials of strength, -the combatants contending with a mixture of slapping -and pushing till one fell to the ground. He had a -large menagerie of lions, elephants, leopards, and similar -beasts of disport, to whom he would sometimes give a -criminal as a ‘<i>curée</i>:’ he also kept for amusement -fifteen or sixteen albinos; and so greedy was he of -novelty that even a cock of peculiar or uniform colour -would have been forwarded by its owner to feed his -eyes.”</p> - -<p>Suna when last visited by the Arabs was a “red -man,” aged about forty-five, tall, robust, and powerful -of limb, with a right kingly presence and a warrior -carriage. His head was so shaven as to leave what the -Omani calls “el Kishshah,” a narrow crest of hair like -a cock’s comb, from nape to brow; nodding and falling -over his face under its weight of strung beads, it gave -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-191">[191]</span> -him a fierce and formidable aspect. This tonsure, -confined to those about the palace, distinguishes its -officers and inmates, servile as well as free, from the -people. The Ryots leave patches of hair where they -please, but they may not shave the whole scalp under -pain of death, till a royal edict unexpectedly issued at -times commands every head to shed its honours. Suna -never appeared in public without a spear; his dress -was the national costume, a long piece of the fine -crimped mbugu or bark-cloth manufactured in these -regions, extending from the neck to the ground. He -made over to his women the rich clothes presented by -the Arabs, and allowed them to sew with unravelled -cotton thread, whereas the people under severe penalties -were compelled to use plantain fibre. No commoner -could wear domestics or similar luxuries; and in the -presence, the accidental exposure of a limb led, according -to the merchants, to the normal penalty—death.</p> - -<p>Suna, like the northern despots generally, had a -variety of names, all expressing something bitter, -mighty, or terrible, as, for instance, Lbare, the Almighty -(?); Mbidde and Purgoma, a lion. He could -not understand how the Sultan of Zanzibar allowed -his subjects treasonably to assume the name of their -ruler; and besides mortifying the Arabs by assuming -an infinite superiority over their prince, he shocked -them by his natural and unaffected impiety. He -boasted to them that he was the god of earth, as their -Allah was the Lord of Heaven. He murmured loudly -against the abuse of lightning; and he claimed from -his subjects divine honours, which were as readily -yielded to him as by the facile Romans to their emperors. -No Mgándá would allow the omnipotence of his sultan -to be questioned, and a light word concerning him -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-192">[192]</span> -would have imperilled a stranger’s life. Suna’s domestic -policy reminds the English reader of the African peculiarities -which form the groundwork of “Rasselas.” -His sons, numbering more than one hundred, were -removed from the palace in early youth to separate -dungeons, and so secured with iron collars and fetters -fastened to both ends of a long wooden bar that the -wretches could never sit, and without aid could neither -rise nor lie. The heir-elective was dragged from his -chains to fill a throne, and the cadets will linger -through their dreadful lives, unless wanted as sovereigns, -until death release them. Suna kept his female children -under the most rigid surveillance within the palace: he -had, however, a favourite daughter named Nasuru, -whose society was so necessary to him that he allowed -her to appear with him in public.</p> - -<p>The principal officers under the despot of Uganda -are, first, the Kimara Vyona (literally the “finisher of -all things”): to him, the chief civilian of the land, the -city is committed; he also directs the kabaka or village -headmen. The second is the Sakibobo or commander-in-chief, -who has power over the Sáwágánzí, the life-guards -and slaves, the warriors and builders of the -palace. Justice is administered in the capital by the -sultan, who, though severe, is never accused of perverting -the law, which here would signify the ancient -custom of the country. A Mhozi—Arabised to Hoz, -and compared with the Kazi of el Islam—dispenses in -each town criminal and civil rights. The only punishments -appear to be death and mulcts. Capital offenders -are beheaded or burned; in some cases they are flayed -alive; the operation commences with the face, and the -skin, which is always much torn by the knife, is stuffed -as in the old torturing days of Asia. When a criminal -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-193">[193]</span> -absconds, the males of his village are indiscriminately -slain and the women are sold—blood and tears must -flow for discipline. In money suits each party begins -by placing before the Mhozi a sum equivalent to the -disputed claim; the object is to prevent an extensive -litigiousness. Suna used to fine by fives or tens, dozens -or scores, according to the offender’s means; thus from -a wealthy man he would take twenty male and twenty -female slaves, with a similar number of bulls and -cows, goats and kids, hens and even eggs. One of his -favourites, who used constantly to sit by him on guard, -matchlock in hand, was Isa bin Hosayn, a Baloch -mercenary of H. H. Sayyid Said of Zanzibar. He had -fled from his debtors, and had gradually wandered to -Uganda, where the favour of the sovereign procured -him wealth in ivory, and a harem containing from 200 -to 300 women. “Mzagayya,”—the hairy one, as he -was locally called, from his long locks and bushy beard—was -not permitted, nor probably did he desire, to -quit the country; after his patron’s death he fled to -independent Unyoro, having probably raised up, as -these adventurers will, a host of enemies at Uganda.</p> - -<p>Suna greatly encouraged, by gifts and attention, the -Arab merchants to trade in his capital; the distance has -hitherto prevented more than half-a-dozen caravans -travelling to Kibuga; all however came away loudly -praising his courtesy and hospitality. To a poor trader -he has presented twenty slaves, and an equal number of -cows, without expecting any but the humblest return. -The following account of a visit paid to him in 1852, by -Snay bin Amir, may complete his account of the despot -Uganda. When the report of arrival was forwarded by -word of mouth to Suna, he issued orders for the erection -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-194">[194]</span> -of as many tents as might be necessary. The guest, -who was welcomed with joyful tumult by a crowd of -gazers, and was conducted to the newly-built quarters, -where he received a present of bullocks and grain, -plantains and sugar-canes. After three or four days for -repose, he was summoned to the Barzah or audience hall, -outside of which he found a squatting body of about -2000 guards armed only with staves. Allowed to retain -his weapons, he entered with an interpreter and saluted -the chief, who, without rising, motioned his guest to sit -down in front of him. Suna’s only cushion was a -mbugu; his dress was of the same stuff; two spears lay -close at hand, and his dog was as usual by his side. The -Arab thought proper to assume the posture of homage, -namely, to sit upon his shins, bending his back, and, -with eyes fixed on the ground—he had been cautioned -against staring at the “god of earth,”—to rest his hands -upon his lap. The levee was full; at a distance of fifty -paces between the king and the guards sat the ministers; -and inside the palace, so placed that they could see -nothing but the visitor’s back, were the principal women, -who are forbidden to gaze at or to be gazed at by a -stranger. The room was lit with torches of a gummy -wood, for Suna, who eschewed pombe, took great pleasure -in these audiences, which were often prolonged -from sunset to midnight.</p> - -<p>The conversation began with a string of questions -concerning Zanzibar, the route, the news, and the other -staple topics of barbarous confabulation; when it flagged, -a minister was called up to enliven it. No justice was administered -nor present offered during the first audience; -it concluded with the despot rising, at which signal all -dispersed. At the second visit Snay presented his -blackmail, which consisted of ten cotton cloths, and -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-195">[195]</span> -one hundred fundo of coral, and other porcelain beads. -The return was an offering of two ivories and a pair of -serviles; every day, moreover, flesh and grain, fruit and -milk were supplied without charge; whenever the wish -was expressed, a string of slave-girls presently appeared -bending under loads of the article in question; and it -was intimated to the “king’s stranger” that he might -lay hands upon whatever he pleased, animate or inanimate. -Snay, however, was too wise to avail himself of -this truly African privilege. During the four interviews -which followed, Suna proved himself a man of -intelligence: he inquired about the Wazungu or Europeans, -and professed to be anxious for a closer alliance -with the Sultan of Zanzibar. When Snay took leave he -received the usual present of provisions for the road, -and 200 guards prepared to escort him, an honour -which he respectfully declined: Suna offered to send -with him several loads of elephants’ tusks as presents to -H. H. the Sayyid; but the merchant declined to face -with them the difficulties and dangers of Usúí. Like -all African chiefs, the despot considered these visits as -personal honours paid to himself; his pride therefore -peremptorily forbade strangers to pass northwards of his -capital, lest the lesser and hostile chiefs might boast a -similar brave. According to Snay, an European would -be received with distinction, if travelling with supplies -to support his dignity. He would depend, however, -upon his ingenuity and good fortune upon further progress; -and perhaps the most feasible plan to explore the -water-shed north of the Nyanza Lake would be to buy -or to build, with the permission of the reigning monarch, -boats upon the nearest western shore. Suna himself, -had, according to Snay, constructed a flotilla of matumbi -or undecked vessels similar in shape to the Mtope or -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-196">[196]</span> -Muntafiyah—the modern “Ploiaria Rhapta” of the Sawahili -coast from Lamu to Kilwa.</p> - -<p>Few details were given by the Arabs concerning the -vulgar herd of Waganda: they are, as has been remarked, -physically a finer race than the Wayamwezi, -and they are as superior in character; more docile and -better disciplined, they love small gifts, and show their -gratitude by prostrating themselves before the donor. -The specimens of slaves seen at Kazeh were, however, -inferior to the mountaineers of Karagwah; the complexion -was darker, and the general appearance more -African. Their language is, to use an Arab phrase, like -that of birds, soft and quickly spoken; the specimens -collected prove without doubt that it belongs to the -Zangian branch of the great South-African family. -Their normal dress is the mbugu, under which, however, -all wear the “languti” or Indian-T-bandage of goatskin; -women appear in short kilts and breast-coverings of the -same material. Both sexes decorate their heads with -the tiara of abrus-seeds alluded to when describing the -people of Karagwah. As sumptuary laws impede the -free traffic of cloth into Uganda, the imports are represented -chiefly by beads, cowries, and brass and copper -wires. The wealth of the country is in cattle, ivory, -and slaves, the latter often selling for ten fundo of beads, -and the same sum will purchase the Wasoga and Wanyoro -captives from whom the despot derives a considerable -portion of his revenues. The elephant is rare in -Uganda; tusks are collected probably by plunder from -Usoga, and the alakah of about ninety Arab pounds is -sold for two slaves, male or female. The tobacco, -brought to market in leaf, as in Ujiji, and not worked, -as amongst the other tribes, is peculiarly good. Flesh, -sweet potatoes, and the highly nutritious plantain, which -grows in groves a whole day’s march long, are the chief -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-197">[197]</span> -articles of diet; milk is drunk by women only, and ghee -is more valued for unction than for cookery. The -favourite inebrients are mawa and pombe; the latter is -served in neatly carved and coloured gourds, and the -contents are imbibed, like sherry cobbler, through a reed.</p> - -<p>From Kibuga the Arabs have heard that between -fifteen and twenty marches lead to the Kivira River, a -larger and swifter stream than the Katonga, which forms -the northern limit of Uganda, and the southern frontier -of Unyoro. They are unable to give the names of -stations. South of Kivira is Usoga, a low alluvial land, -cut by a multitude of creeks, islets, and lagoons; in -their thick vegetation the people take refuge from the -plundering parties of the Waganda, whose chief built, -as has been told, large boats to dislodge them. The -Wasoga have no single sultan, and their only marketable -commodity is ivory.</p> - -<p>On the north, the north-west, and the west of Uganda -lies, according to the Arabs, the land of Independent -Unyoro. The slaves from that country vaguely describe -it as being bounded on the north-west by a tribe -called Wakede, who have a currency of cowries, and -wear tiaras of the shell; and the Arabs have heard -that on the north-east there is a “people with long -daggers like the Somal,” who may be Gallas (?). But -whether the Nyanza Lake extends north of the equator -is a question still to be decided. Those consulted at -Kazeh ignored even the name of the Nyam-nyam; nor -had they heard of the Bahri and Barri, the Shilluks on -the west, and the Dinkas east of the Nile, made familiar -to us by the Austrian Mission at Gondokoro, and other -explorers.</p> - -<p>The Wanyoro are a distinct race, speaking a language -of the Zangian family: they have suffered from the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-198">[198]</span> -vicinity of the more warlike Waganda, who have affixed -to the conquered the opprobrious name of widdu or -“serviles;” and they have lost their southern possessions, -which formerly extended between Karagwah and -Uganda. Their late despot Chawambi, whose death -occurred about ten years ago, left three sons, one of -whom it is reported has fallen into the power of -Uganda, whilst the two others still rule independently. -The county is rich and fertile, and magnificent tales are -told concerning the collections of ivory, which in some -parts are planted in the ground to pen cattle. Slaves -are cheap; they find their way to the southern markets -<i>viâ</i> Uganda and Karagwah. Those seen at Kazeh and -Kirira, where the Arab traders had a large gang, appeared -somewhat inferior to the other races of the -northern kingdoms, with a dull dead black colour, -flattish heads, brows somewhat retreating, prominent -eyes, and projecting lower jaws. They were tattooed -in large burnt blotches encircling the forehead, and in -some cases the inferior excisors had been extracted. -The price of cattle in Unyoro varies from 500 to -1000 cowries. In this country ten simbi (Cypræa) -represent one khete of beads; they are the most esteemed -currency, and are also used as ornaments for -the neck, arms, and legs, and decorations for stools and -drums.</p> - -<p>During my companions’ absence much of my spare -time was devoted to collecting specimens of the multitudinous -dialects into which the great South African -family here divides itself. After some months of desultory -work I had learned the Kisawahili or coast -language, the lingua Franca of the South African coast: -it is the most useful, because the most generally known, -and because, once mastered, it renders its cognates as -easy of acquirement as Bengali or Maharatti after Hindostani. -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-199">[199]</span> -The principal obstacle is the want of instructors -and books—the Kisawahili is not a written -language; and the elementary publications put forth in -Europe gave me the preliminary trouble of composing -a grammar and a vocabulary. Said Bin Salim, though -bred and born amongst the Wasawahili, knew but -little of the tongue, and his peculiarities of disposition -rendered the task of instruction as wearisome -to himself as it was unsatisfactory to me. My best -tutor was Snay Bin Amir, who had transferred to the -philology of East Africa his knowledge of Arabic grammar -and syntax. With the aid of the sons of Ramji -and other tame slaves, I collected about 1500 words -in the three principal dialects upon this line of road, -namely the Kisawahili, the Kizaramo—which includes -the Kik’hutu—and the Kinyamwezi. At Kazeh I -found a number of wild captives, with whom I -began the dreary work of collecting specimens. In -the languages of least consideration I contented myself -with the numerals, which are the fairest test of independence -of derivation, because the most likely to be -primitive vocables. The work was not a labour of love. -The savages could not guess the mysterious objects -of my inquiry into their names for 1, 2, and 3; often -they started up and ran away, or they sat in dogged -silence, perhaps thinking themselves derided. The first -number was rarely elicited without half an hour’s -“talkee-talkee” somewhat in this <span class="nowrap">style:—</span></p> - -<p>“Listen, O my brother! in the tongue of the shores -(Kisawahili) we say 1, 2, 3, 4, 5”—counting the fingers -to assist comprehension.</p> - -<p>“Hu! hu!” replies the wild man, “<i>we</i> say fingers.”</p> - -<p>“By no means, that’s not it. This white man wants -to know how thou speakest 1, 2, 3?”</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-200">[200]</span></p> - -<p>“One, two, three what? sheep, or goats, or women?”—expressing -the numerals in Kisawahili.</p> - -<p>“By no means, only 1, 2, 3 sheep in thine own tongue, -the tongue of the Wapoka.”</p> - -<p>“Hi! Hi! what wants the white man with the -Wapoka?”</p> - -<p>And so on till patience was almost impossible. But, -like the Irish shay-horse of days gone by, their tongues -once started often hobbled on without halting. The -tame slaves were more tractable, yet even in their case -ten minutes sufficed to weary out the most intellectual; -when the listless and incoherent reply, the glazed eye -gazing at vacancy, and the irresistible tendency to gape -and yawn, to nod and snooze, evidenced a feeble brain -soon overworked. Said Bin Salim would sit staring at -me with astonishment, and ejaculate, like Abba Gregorius, -the preceptor of Ludolph, the grammarian philologist -and historian of Æthiopia, “Verily in the coast-tongue -words never take root, nor do they bear -branches.”</p> - -<p>The rest of my time was devoted to preparations for -journeying. The Fundi’s tent, which had accompanied -us to Uvira, was provided with an outer cover. The -Sepoys’ “pal,” brought from Zanzibar, having been -destroyed by the ill-treatment of the villain Kannena, -I made up, with the aid of a blackguard Baghdadi, -named ’Brahim, a large tent of American domestics, -which having, however, but one cloth, and that of the -thinnest, proved a fiery purgatory on the down-march -eastwards. The canvas lug-sail was provided with an -extra double cloth, sewn round the top to increase its -dimensions: it thus became a pent-shaped affair, twelve -feet long, eight broad, and six feet high—seven would -have been better,—buttoned at the foot, which was semicircular, -and in front provided with blue cotton curtains, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-201">[201]</span> -most useful against glare and stare. Its lightness, -combined with impenetrability, made it the model of a -tent for rapid marching. It was not, however, pegged -down close to the ground, as some explorers advise, -without the intervention of ropes; in these lands, a tent -so pitched would rot in a week. The three tents were -fitted with solid male bamboos, and were provided -with skin-bags for their pegs, which, unless carefully -looked after, disappear almost daily. The only furniture -was a kitanda or cartel: some contrivance of the -kind, a “Biddulph,” or an iron bed-frame, without -joints, nuts, or screws, which are sure to break or to be -lost, is absolutely necessary in these lands, where from -Kaole to Uvira every man instinctively attempts to sit -and to sleep upon something that raises him above the -ground. Moreover, I have ever found the cartel answer -the threefold purpose of bed, chair, and table; besides -saving weight by diminishing the quantity of bedding -required.</p> - -<p>To the task of tent-making succeeded tailoring. We -had neglected to provide ourselves with the loose -blanket suits, served out to sailors on board men-of-war -in the tropics: they are most useful in passing through -countries where changes of climate are sudden and -marked. Besides these, the traveller should carry with -him an ample store of flannels: the material must be -shrunk before making up shirts, otherwise it will behave -as did the Little Boy’s mantle when tried by the frail fair -Guinever. A red colour should moreover be avoided, -the dye soon turns dark, and the appearance excites too -much attention. Besides shirt and trousers, the only -necessary is a large “stomach-warmer” waistcoat, with -sleeves and back of similar material, without collar—which -renders sleeping in it uneasy—and provided with -four flapped pockets, to contain a compass and thermometer, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-202">[202]</span> -a note-book, and a sketch-book, a watch and a -moderate-sized knife of many uses. The latter should -contain scissors, tweezers, tooth-pick, and ear-pick, -needle, file, picker, steel for fire, turnscrew, watch-spring-saw, -clasp blade, and pen blade: it should be made of -moderate dimensions, and for safety be slung by a -lanyard to the button-hole. For the cold mornings and -the noon-day heats, I made up a large padded hood, -bound round the head like the Arab Kufiyah. Too -much cannot be said in favour of this article, which in -eastward travel defends the eyes from the fiery glare, -protects, when wending westwards, the carotids against -the solar blaze, and, at all times, checks the intrusive -staring of the crowd. I reformed my umbrella, ever -an invaluable friend in these latitudes, by removing the -rings and wires from the worm-eaten stick, and by -mounting them on a spear, thus combining with shelter -a staff and a weapon. The traveller should have at -least three umbrellas, one large and water proof—white, -not black—in the shape of those used by artists; and -two others of moderate size, and of the best construction, -which should be covered with light-coloured calico, -as an additional defence against the sun. At Kazeh -I was somewhat deficient in material: my lazy “Jack of -all trades,” Valentine, made, however, some slippers of -green baize, soled with leather, for me, overalls of American -domestics for my companion, and various articles -of indigo-dyed cotton for himself and his fellow-servant, -who presently appeared tastefully rigged out like Paul -and Virginia in “Bengal blue.”</p> - -<p>The minor works were not many. The two remaining -portmanteaus of the three that had left the Coast -were cobbled with goatskins, and were bound with stout -thongs. The hammocks, of which half had disappeared, -were patched and provided with the Nara, or Indian -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-203">[203]</span> -cotton-tape, which in these climates is better than -either reims or cord. To save my eyes the spectacle of -moribund fowls, suspended to a porter’s pole, two light -cages were made after the fashion of the country, with -bent and bound withes. The metal plates, pots, and -pans were furbished, and a damaged kettle was mended -by a travelling tinker: the asses’ saddles and halters -were repaired, and, greatest luxury of all, a brace of -jembe or iron hoes was converted into two pairs of solid -stirrups, under the vigilant eye of Snay bin Amir. A -party of slaves sent to Msene brought back fifty-four -jembe, useful as return-presents and blackmail on the -down-march: they paid, however, one cloth for two, -instead of four. Sallum bin Hamid, the “papa” of the -Arabs, sold for the sum of forty dollars a fine half-bred -Zanzibar she-ass and foal—there is no surer method of -procuring a regular supply of milk on Eastern journeys. -My black and white beads being almost useless, he also -parted with, as a peculiar favour, seventeen or eighteen -pounds of pink-porcelains for forty dollars, and with a -Frasibah of coffee, and a similar quantity of sugar for -eighty dollars, equal to sixteen pounds sterling. On -the 14th July the last Arab caravan of the season left -Unyanyembe, under the command of Sayf bin Said el -Wardi. As he obligingly offered to convey letters and -any small articles which I wished to precede me, and -knowing that under his charge effects were far safer -than with our own people, I forwarded the useless and -damaged surveying instruments, certain manuscripts, -and various enclosures of maps, field and sketch-books, -together with reports to the Royal Geographical -Society.</p> - -<p>This excitement over I began to weary of Kazeh. -Snay bin Amir and most of the Arabs had set out on an -expedition to revenge the murder of old Silim—an -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-204">[204]</span> -event alluded to in a former page, and the place had -become dull as a mess-dinner. Said bin Salim, who -was ill, who coughed and expectorated, and sincerely -pitied himself because he had a cold, became more -than usually unsociable: he could enjoy nothing but -the society of Brahim, the bawling Baghdadi, and the -crowd of ill-flavoured slavery that flocked into the vestibule. -My Goanese servant, who connected my aspect -with hard labour, avoided it like a pestilence. Already I -was preparing to organise a little expedition to K’hokoro -and the southern provinces, when unexpectedly,—in -these lands a few cries and gun-shots are the only -credible precursors of a caravan,—on the morning of -the 25th August reappeared my companion.</p> - -<p>At length my companion had been successful, his -“flying trip” had led him to the northern water, and -he had found its dimensions surpassing our most sanguine -expectations. We had scarcely, however, breakfasted, -before he announced to me the startling fact, -that he had discovered the sources of the White Nile. -It was an inspiration perhaps: the moment he sighted -the Nyanza, he felt at once no doubt but that the “Lake -at his feet gave birth to that interesting river which -has been the subject of so much speculation, and the -object of so many explorers.” The fortunate discoverer’s -conviction was strong; his reasons were weak—were -of the category alluded to by the damsel -Lucetta, when justifying her penchant in favour of the -“lovely gentleman,” Sir <span class="nowrap">Proteus:—</span></p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - -<div class="stanza"> -<span class="verse indent00">“I have no other but a woman’s reason.<br /></span> -<span class="verse indent0">I think him so because I think him -so;”<a id="FNanchorii11"></a><a href="#Footnoteii11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a><br /></span> -</div><!--stanza--> - -</div><!--poetry--> -</div><!--poetry-container--> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-205">[205]</span></p> - -<p class="noindent">and probably his sources of the Nile grew in his mind -as his Mountains of the Moon had grown under his hand.</p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnoteii11"></a><a href="#FNanchorii11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> -The following extract from the Proceedings of the R. Geographical -Society, May 9, 1859, will best illustrate what I mean:—</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Mr. Macqueen</span>, <span class="smcapall">F.R.G.S.</span>, said the question of the sources of the Nile had -cost him much trouble and research, and he was sure there was no material -error either in longitude or latitude in the position he had ascribed to -them, namely, a little to the eastward of the meridian of 35°, and a little -northward of the equator. That was the principal source of the White Nile. -The mountains there were exceedingly high, from the equator north to Kaffa -Enarea. All the authorities, from east, west, north, or south, now perfectly -competent to form judgments upon such a matter, agreed with him; and -among them were the officers commanding the Egyptian commission. It was -impossible they could all be mistaken. Dr. Krapf had been within a very -short distance of it; he was more than 180 miles from Mombas, and he saw snow -upon the mountains. He conversed with the people who came from them, -and who told him of the snow and exceeding coldness of the temperature. -The line of perpetual congelation, it was well known, was 17,000 feet above -the sea. He had an account of the navigation of the White Nile by the -Egyptian expedition. It was then given as 3° 30′ N. lat. and 31° E. long. -At this point the expedition turned back for want of a sufficient depth of -water. Here the river was 1370 feet broad, and the velocity of the current -<i>one-quarter</i> of a mile per hour. The journals also gave a specific and daily -current, the depth and width of the river, and every thing, indeed, connected -with it. Surely, looking at the current of the river, the height of the Cartoom -above the level of the sea, and the distance thence up to the equator, the -sources of the Nile must be 6000 or 8000 feet above the level of the sea, and -still much below the line of the snow, which was 6000 or 8000 feet farther -above them. He deeply regretted he was unable to complete the diagram -for the rest of the papers he had given to the Society, for it was more important -than any others he had previously given. It contained the journey -over Africa from sea to sea, second only to that of Dr. Livingstone. But -all the rivers coming down from the mountains in question, and running -south-eastward, had been clearly stated by Dr. Krapf, who gave every particular -concerning them. He should like to know what the natives had said -was to the northward of the large lake? Did they say the rivers ran out -from or into the lake? How could the Egyptian officers be mistaken?</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Captain Speke</span> replied. They were not mistaken; and if they had pursued -their journey 50 miles farther, they would undoubtedly have found -themselves at the northern borders of this lake.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Mr. Macqueen</span> said that other travellers, Don Angelo for instance, had -been within one and a half degree of the Equator, and saw the mountain of -Kimborat under the Line, and persisted in the statement, adding, that travellers -had been up the river until they found it a mere brook. He felt -convinced that the large lake alluded to by Captain Speke was not the -source of the Nile: it was impossible it could be so, for it was not at a sufficiently -high altitude.</p> - -<p>The paper presented to the Society, when fully read in conjunction with -the map, will clearly show that the Bahr-el-Abied has no connection with -Kilimanjaro, that it has no connection whatever with any lake or river to -the south of the Equator, and that the swelling of the river Nile proceeds -from the tropical rains of the northern torrid zone, as was stated emphatically -to Julius Cæsar by the chief Egyptian priest Amoreis 2000 years ago.</p> - -<p>In nearly 3° N. lat. there is a great cataract, which boats cannot pass. -It is called Gherba. About half-way (50 miles) above, and between this -cataract and Robego, the capital of Kuenda, the river becomes so narrow as -to be crossed by a bridge formed by a tree thrown across it. Above Gherba -no stream joins the river either from the south or south-west.</p> - -</div><!--footnote--> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-206">[206]</span></p> - -<p>The main argument in favour of the Lake representing -the great reservoir of the White River was, -that the “principal men” at the southern extremity -ignored the extent northward. “On my inquiring -about the lake’s length the man (the greatest traveller -in the place) faced to the north, and began nodding his -head to it; at the same time he kept throwing forward -his right hand, and making repeated snaps of his fingers -endeavoured to indicate something immeasurable; and -added, that nobody knew, but he thought it probably -extended to the end of the world.” Strongly impressed -by this valuable statistical information, my companion -therefore placed the northern limit about 4°-5° north lat., -whereas the Egyptian expedition sent by the late Mohammed -Ali Pacha, about twenty years ago, to explore the -Coy Sources, reached 3° 22′ north lat. It therefore ought -to have sailed fifty miles upon the Nyanza lake. On the -contrary, from information derived on the spot, that expedition -placed the fountains at one month’s journey—300 -to 350 miles—to the south-east, or upon the northern -counterslope of Mount Kenia. Whilst marching to the -coast, my companion—he tells us—was assured by a -“respectable Sowahili merchant, that when engaged in -traffic some years previously to the northward of the -line, and the westward of this lake, he had heard it -commonly reported that large vessels frequented the -northern extremity of these waters, in which the officers -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-207">[207]</span> -engaged in navigating them used sextants and kept a -log, precisely similar to what is found in vessels on the -ocean. Query, could this be in allusion to the expedition -sent by Mohammed Ali up the Nile in former -years?” (Proceedings of Royal Geographical Society, -May 9, 1859.) Clearly, if Abdullah Bin Nasib, the -Msawahili alluded to, had reported these words, he -merely erred; the Egyptian expedition, as has been -shown, not only did not find, they never even heard of -a lake. But not being present at the conversation I am -tempted to assign further explanation. My companion, -wholly ignorant of Arabic, was reduced to depend -upon “Bombay,” who spoke an even more debased -dialect than his master, and it is easy to see how the -blunder originated. The Arabic bahr and the Kisawahili -bahari are equally applicable in vulgar parlance -to a river or sea, a lake or a river. Traditions -concerning a Western Sea—the to them now unknown -Atlantic—over which the white men voyage, are familiar -to many East Africans; I have heard at Harar precisely -the same report concerning the log and sextants. -Either, then, Abdullah Bin Nasib confounded, or my -companion’s “interrupter” caused him to confound -the Atlantic and the Lake. In the maps forwarded -from Kazeh by my companion, the River Kivira was, -after ample inquiry, made a western <i>influent</i> of the -Nyanza Lake. In the map appended to the paper in -Blackwood, before alluded to, it has become an <i>effluent</i>, -and the only minute concerning so very important a -modification is, “This river (although I must confess at -first I did not think so) is the Nile itself!”</p> - -<p>Beyond the assertion, therefore, that no man had -visited the north, and the appearance of sextants and -logs upon the waters, there is not a shade of proof <i>pro.</i> -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-208">[208]</span> -Far graver considerations lie on the <i>con.</i> side: the reports -of the Egyptian expedition, and the dates of the several -inundations which—as will presently appear—alone suffice -to disprove the possibility of the Nyanza causing -the flood of the Nile. It is doubtless a satisfactory -thing to disclose to an admiring public, of “statesmen, -churchmen, missionaries, merchants, and more particularly -geographers,” the “solution of a problem, which -it has been the first geographical desideratum of many -thousand years to ascertain, and the ambition of the -first monarchs in the world to unravel.” (Blackwood’s -Magazine, October 1859.) But how many times since -the days of a certain Claudius Ptolemæius surnamed -Pelusiota, have not the Fountains of the White Nile -been discovered and re-discovered after this fashion?</p> - -<p>What tended at the time to make me the more -sceptical was the substantial incorrectness of the geographical -and other details brought back by my companion. -This was natural enough. Bombay, after -misunderstanding his master’s ill-expressed Hindostani, -probably mistranslated the words into Kisawahili to some -travelled African, who in turn passed on the question -in a wilder dialect to the barbarian or barbarians under -examination. During such a journey to and fro words -must be liable to severe accidents. The first thing -reported to me was the falsehood of the Arabs at -Kazeh, who had calumniated the good Sultan Muhayya, -and had praised the bad Sultan Machunda: subsequent -inquiries proved their rigid correctness. My companion’s -principal informant was one Mansur Bin Salim, -a half-caste Arab, who had been flogged out of -Kazeh by his compatriots; he pronounced Muhayya -to be a “very excellent and obliging person,” and of -course he was believed. I then heard a detailed account -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-209">[209]</span> -of how the caravan of Salim bin Rashid had been -attacked, beaten, captured, and detained at Ukerewe, by -its sultan Machunda. The Arabs received the intelligence -with a smile of ridicule, and in a few days Salim -bin Rashid appeared in person to disprove the report. -These are but two cases of many. And what knowledge -of Asiatic customs can be expected from the -writer of these lines? “The Arabs at Unyanyembe -had advised my donning their habit for the trip in order -to attract less attention; a vain precaution, which I -believe they suggested more to gratify their own -vanity in <i>seeing an Englishman lower himself to their -position</i>, than for any benefit that I might receive by -doing so.” (Blackwood, loco cit.) This galimatias of -the Arabs!—the haughtiest and the most clannish of -all Oriental peoples.</p> - -<p>But difference of opinion was allowed to alter companionship. -After a few days it became evident to me -that not a word could be uttered upon the subject of -the Lake, the Nile, and his <i>trouvaille</i> generally without -offence. By a tacit agreement it was, therefore, avoided, -and I should never have resumed it had my companion -not stultified the results of the Expedition by putting -forth a claim which no geographer can admit, and -which is at the same time so weak and flimsy, that no -geographer has yet taken the trouble to contradict it.</p> - -<p>I will here offer to the reader a few details concerning -the Lake in question,—they are principally -borrowed from my companion’s diary, carefully corrected, -however, by Snay bin Amir, Salim bin Rashid<a id="FNanchorii12"></a><a href="#Footnoteii12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a>, -and other merchants at Kazeh.</p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnoteii12"></a><a href="#FNanchorii12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a> When my companion returned to Kazeh, he represented Ukerewe and -Mazita to be islands, and, although in sight of them, he had heard nothing -concerning their connection with the coast. This error was corrected by -Salim bin Rashid, and accepted by us. Yet I read in his discovery of the -supposed sources of the Nile: “Mansur, and a native, the greatest traveller -of the place, kindly accompanied and gave me every obtainable information. -This man had traversed the island, as he called it, of Ukerewe from north -to south. <i>But by his rough mode of describing it, I am rather inclined to -think that instead of its being an actual island, it is a connected tongue of -land, stretching southwards from a promontory lying at right angles to the -eastern shore of the lake</i>, which being a wash, affords a passage to the -mainland during the fine season, but during the wet becomes submerged -and thus makes Ukerewe temporarily an island.” The information, I -repeat, was given, not by the “native,” but by Salim bin Rashid. When, -however, the latter proceeded to correct my companion’s confusion between -the well-known coffee mart Kitara and “the island of Kitiri occupied by a -tribe called Watiri,” he gave only offence—consequently Kitiri has obtained -a local habitation in Blackwood and Petermann.</p> - -</div><!--footnote--> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-210">[210]</span></p> - -<p>This fresh-water sea is known throughout the African -tribes as Nyanza, and the similarity of the sound to -“Nyassa,” the indigenous name of the little Maravi or -Kilwa Lake, may have caused in part the wild confusion -in which speculative geographers have involved -the Lake Regions of Central Africa. The Arabs, after -their fashion of deriving comprehensive names from -local and minor features, call it Ukerewe, in the Kisukuma -dialect meaning the “place of Kerewe” (Kelewe), -an islet. As has been mentioned, they sometimes -attempt to join by a river, a creek, or some other -theoretical creation, the Nyanza with the Tanganyika, -the altitude of the former being 3750 feet above sea-level, -or 1900 feet above the latter, and the mountain -regions which divide the two having been frequently -travelled over by Arab and African caravans. Hence -the name Ukerewe has been transferred in the “Mombas -Mission Map” to the northern waters of the Tanganyika. -The Nyanza, as regards name, position, and -even existence, has hitherto been unknown to European -geographers; but, as will presently appear, descriptions -of this sea by native travellers have been unconsciously -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-211">[211]</span> -transferred by our writers to the Tanganyika of Ujiji, -and even to the Nyassa of Kilwa.</p> - -<p>M. Brun-Rollet (“Le Nil Blanc et le Soudan,” -p. 209) heard that on the west of the Padongo tribe,—whom -he places to the S. of Mount Kambirah, or -below 1° S. lat.—lies a great lake, from whose northern -extremity issues a river whose course is unknown. In -the map appended to his volume this water is placed -between 1° S. and 3° N. lat., and about 25° 50′ E. -long. (Greenwich), and the déversoir is made an influent -of the White Nile.</p> - -<p>Bowdich (“Discoveries of the Portuguese,” pp. 131, -132), when speaking of the Maravi Lake (the Nyassa), -mentions that the “negroes or the Moors of Melinde” -have mentioned a great water which is known to reach -Mombaca, which the Jesuit missionaries conjectured to -communicate with Abyssinia, and of which Father Lewis -Marianna, who formerly resided at Tete, recommended -a discovery, in a letter addressed to the government at -Goa, which is still preserved among the public archives -of that city. Here the confusion of the Nyanza, to -which there was of old a route from Mombasah with -the Nyassa, is apparent.</p> - -<p>At the southern point, where the Muingwira River -falls into the tortuous creek, whose surface is a little -archipelago of brown rocky islets crowned with trees, -and emerging from the blue waters, the observed latitude -of the Nyanza Lake, is 2° 24′ S.; the longitude -by dead reckoning from Kazeh is E. long. 33° and -nearly due north, and the altitude by B. P. thermometer -3750 feet above sea-level. Its extent to the north is -unknown to the people of the southern regions, which -rather denotes some difficulty in travelling than any -great extent. They informed my companion that from -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-212">[212]</span> -Mwanza to the southern frontier of Karagwah is a land -journey of one month, or a sea voyage of five days -towards the N. N. W. and then to the north. They also -pointed out the direction of Unyoro N. 20° W. -The Arab merchants of Kazeh have seen the Nyanza -opposite Weranhanja, the capital district of Armanika, -King of Karagwah, and declare that it receives the -Kitangure River, whose mouth has been placed about the -equator. Beyond that point all is doubtful. The merchants -have heard that Suna, the late despot of Uganda, -built matumbi, or undecked vessels, capable of containing -forty or fifty men, in order to attack his enemies, -the Wasoga, upon the creeks which indent the western -shores of the Nyanza. This, if true, would protract the -lake to between 1° and 1° 30′ of N. lat., and give it -a total length of about 4° or 250 miles. This point, -however, is still involved in the deepest obscurity. Its -breadth was estimated as follows. A hill, about 200 -feet above the water-level, shows a conspicuous landmark -on the eastern shore, which was set down as forty miles -distant. On the south-western angle of the line from -the same point ground appeared; it was not, however, -perceptible on the north-west. The total breadth, -therefore, has been assumed at eighty miles,—a figure -which approaches the traditions unconsciously chronicled -by European geographers. In the vicinity of Usoga -the lake, according to the Arabs, broadens out: of this, -however, and in fact of all the formation north of the -equator, it is at present impossible to arrive at certainty.</p> - -<p>The Nyanza is an elevated basin or reservoir, the -recipient of the surplus monsoon-rain which falls in the -extensive regions of the Wamasai and their kinsmen to -the east, the Karagwah line of the Lunar Mountains to -the west, and to the south Usukuma or Northern -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-213">[213]</span> -Unyamwezi. Extending to the equator in the central -length of the African peninsula, and elevated above the -limits of the depression in the heart of the continent, it -appears to be a gap in the irregular chain which, running -from Usumbara and Kilima-ngao to Karagwah, -represents the formation anciently termed the Mountains -of the Moon. The physical features, as far as they -were observed, suggest this view. The shores are low -and flat, dotted here and there with little hills; the -smaller islands also are hill-tops, and any part of the -country immediately on the south would, if inundated -to the same extent, present a similar aspect. The lake -lies open and elevated, rather like the drainage and the -temporary deposit of extensive floods than a volcanic -creation like the Tanganyika, a long narrow mountain-girt -basin. The waters are said to be deep, and the -extent of the inundation about the southern creek -proves that they receive during the season an important -accession. The colour was observed to be clear and -blue, especially from afar in the early morning; after -9 <i>a.m.</i>, when the prevalent south-east wind arose, the -surface appeared greyish, or of a dull milky white, -probably the effect of atmospheric reflection. The tint, -however, does not, according to travellers, ever become -red or green like the waters of the Nile. But the produce -of the lake resembles that of the river in its -purity; the people living on the shores prefer it, unlike -that of the Tanganyika, to the highest, and clearest -springs; all visitors agree in commending its lightness -and sweetness, and declare that the taste is rather of -river or of rain-water than resembling the soft slimy -produce of stagnant muddy bottoms, or the rough -harsh flavour of melted ice and snow.</p> - -<p>From the southern creek of the Nyanza, and beyond -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-214">[214]</span> -the archipelago of neighbouring islets, appear the two -features which have given to this lake the name of -Ukerewe. The Arabs call them “Jezirah”—an ambiguous -term, meaning equally insula and peninsula—but -they can scarcely be called islands. The high and -rocky Mazita to the east, and the comparatively flat -Ukerewe on the west, are described by the Arabs as -points terminating seawards in bluffs, and connected -with the eastern shore by a low neck of land, probably -a continuous reef, flooded during the rains, but never -so deeply as to prevent cattle fording the isthmus. -The northern and western extremities front deep -water, and a broad channel separates them from the -southern shore, Usukuma. The Arabs, when visiting -Ukerewe or its neighbour, prefer hiring the canoes -of the Wasukuma, and paddling round the south-eastern -extremity of the Nyanza, to exposing their -property and lives by marching through the dangerous -tribes of the coast.</p> - -<p>Mazita belongs to a people called Makwiya. Ukerewe -is inhabited, according to some informants, by Wasukuma; -according to others, the Wakerewe are marked -by their language as ancient emigrants from the highlands -of Karagwah. In Ukerewe, which is exceedingly -populous, are two brother Sultans: the chief is -“Machunda;” the second, “Ibanda,” rules at Wiru, -the headland on the western limit. The people collect -ivory from the races on the eastern mainland, and store -it, awaiting an Arab caravan. Beads are in most request; -as in Usukuma generally, not half a dozen -cloths of native and foreign manufacture will be -found upon a hundred men. The women are especially -badly clad; even the adult maidens wear only the -languti of India, or the Nubian apron of aloe-fibre, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-215">[215]</span> -strung with the pipe-stem bead called sofi, and -blackened, like India-rubber, by use; it is fastened -round the waist, and depends about one foot by six or -seven inches in breadth.</p> - -<p>The Arabs who traffic in these regions generally -establish themselves with Sultan Machunda, and send -their slaves in canoes round the south-east angle of the -lake to trade with the coast people. These races are -successively from the south; the Washaki, at a distance -of three marches, and their inland neighbours the -Wataturu; then the Warudi, a wild tribe, rich in ivory, -lying about a fortnight’s distance; and beyond them -the Wahumba, or Wamasai. Commercial transactions -extend along the eastern shore as far as T’hiri, or -Ut’hiri, a district between Ururu and Uhumba. This -is possibly the origin of the island of Tiri or Kittiri, -placed in my companion’s map near the north-west -extremity of the Nyanza Lake, off the coast of Uganda, -where there is a province called Kittara, peculiarly rich -in coffee. The explorer heard from the untrustworthy -country people that, after a long coasting voyage, they -arrived at an island where the inhabitants, a poor and -naked race, live on fish, and cultivate coffee for sale. -The information appears suspicious. The Arabs know -of no islands upon the Nyanza which produce coffee. -Moreover, if the people had any traffic, they would not -be without clothing.</p> - -<p>The savagery of the races adjacent to the Nyanza has -caused accidents amongst travelling traders. About -five years ago a large caravan from Tanga, on the -eastern coast, consisting of 400 or 500 guns, and led -by Arab merchants, at the end of a journey which had -lasted nearly two years, happened to quarrel with the -Wahumba or Wamasai near the lake. The subject was -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-216">[216]</span> -the burning down of some grass required for pasture -by the wild men. Words led to blows; the caravan, -having but two or three pounds of gunpowder, was -soon dispersed; seven or eight merchants lost their -lives, and a few made their escape to Unyanyembe. -Before our departure from Kazeh, the slaves of Salim -bin Rashid, having rescued one of the wounded survivors, -who had been allowed by the Wamasai to -wander into Urudi, brought him back to Kazeh. He -described the country as no longer practicable. In -1858 also the same trading party, the principal -authority for these statements, were relieved of several -bales of cloth, during their sleep, when bivouacking -upon an inhabited island near the eastern shore.</p> - -<p>The altitude, the conformation of the Nyanza Lake, -the argilaceous colour and the sweetness of its waters, -combine to suggest that it may be one of the feeders of -the White Nile. In the map appended to M. Brun-Rollet’s -volume, before alluded to, the large water west -of the Padongo tribe, which clearly represents the -Nyanza or Ukerewe, is, I have observed, made to drain -northwards into the Fitri Lake, and eventually to swell -the main stream of the White River. The details supplied -by the Egyptian Expedition, which, about twenty -years ago, ascended the White River to 3° 22′ N. lat., -and 31° 30′ E. long., and gave the general bearing of the -river from that point to its source as south-east, with a -distance of one month’s journey, or from 300 to -350 miles, would place the actual sources 2° S. lat., -and 35° E. long., or in 2° eastward of the southern -creek of the Nyanza Lake. This position would occupy -the northern counterslope of the Lunar Mountains, the -upper water-shed of the high region whose culminating -apices are Kilima-Ngao, Kenia, and Doengo Engai. The -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-217">[217]</span> -distance of these peaks from the coast, as given by Dr. -Krapf, must be considerably reduced, and little authority -can be attached to his river Tumbiri.<a id="FNanchorii13"></a><a href="#Footnoteii13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a> The site, -supposed by Mr. Macqueen (“Proceedings of the Geographical -Society of London,” January 24th, 1859), to -be at least 21,000 feet above the level of the sea, and -consequently 3000 or 4000 feet above the line of perpetual -congelation, would admirably explain the two -most ancient theories concerning the source of the -White River, namely, that it arises in a snowy region, -and that its inundation is the result of tropical rains.</p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnoteii13"></a><a href="#FNanchorii13"><span class="label">[13]</span></a> -The large river Tumbiri, mentioned by Dr. Krapf as flowing towards -Egypt from the northern counterslope of Mount Kenia, rests upon the sole -authority of a single wandering native. As, moreover, the word T’humbiri -or T’humbili means a monkey, and the people are peculiarly fond of satire -in a small way, it is not improbable that the very name had no foundation of -fact. This is mentioned, as some geographers—for instance, Mr. Macqueen -(“Observations on the Geography of Central Africa:” “Proceedings of the -R. G. S. of London,” May 9, 1859)—have been struck by the circumstance -that the Austrian Missionaries and Mr. Werne (“Expedition to discover the -sources of the White Nile, in 1840-41”) gave Tubirih as the Bari name of -the White Nile at the southern limit of their exploration.</p> - -</div><!--footnote--> - -<p>It is impossible not to suspect that between the upper -portion of the Nyanza and the watershed of the White -Nile there exists a longitudinal range of elevated ground, -running from east to west—a “furca” draining northwards -into the Nile and southwards into the Nyanza -Lake—like that which separates the Tanganyika from -the Maravi or Nyassa of Kilwa. According to Don -Angelo Vinco, who visited Loquéck in 1852, beyond the -cataract of Garbo—supposed to be in N. lat. 2° 40′—at -a distance of sixty miles lie Robego, the capital of -Kuenda, and Lokoya (Logoja), of which the latter receives -an affluent from the east. Beyond Lokoya the -White Nile is described as a <i>small and rocky mountain-river</i>, -presenting none of the features of a stream flowing -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-218">[218]</span> -from a broad expanse of water like the great Nyanza -reservoir.</p> - -<p>The periodical swelling of the Nyanza Lake, which, -flooding a considerable tract of land on the south, may -be supposed—as it lies flush with the basal surface of -the country—to inundate extensively all the low lands -that form its periphery, forbids belief in the possibility -of its being the head-stream of the Nile, or the reservoir -of its periodical inundation. In Karagwah, upon the -western shore, the masika or monsoon lasts from October -to May or June, after which the dry season sets in. The -Egyptian Expedition found the river falling fast at the -end of January, and they learned from the people that -it would again rise about the end of March, at which -season the sun is vertical over the equator. About the -summer solstice (June), when the rains cease in the -regions south of and upon the equator, the White Nile -begins to flood. From March to the autumnal equinox -(September) it continues to overflow its banks till it -attains its magnitude, and from that time it shrinks -through the winter solstice (December) till March. The -Nile is, therefore, full during the dry season and low -during the rainy season south of and immediately upon -the equator. And as the northern counterslope of -Kenia will, to a certain extent, be a lee-land, like Ugogo, -it cannot have the superfluity of moisture necessary to -send forth a first-class stream. The inundation is -synchronous with the great falls of the northern equatorial -regions, which extend from July to September, -and is dependent solely upon the tropical rains. It is, -therefore, probable that the true sources of the “Holy -River” will be found to be a network of runnels and -rivulets of scanty dimensions, filled by monsoon torrents, -and perhaps a little swollen by melted snow on the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-219">[219]</span> -northern water-parting of the Eastern Lunar Mountains.</p> - -<p>Of the tribes dwelling about the Nyanza, the western -have been already described. The Washaki and the -Warudi are plundering races on the east, concerning -whom little is known. Remain the Wahinda, a clan or -class alluded to in this and a former chapter, and the -Wataturu, an extensive and once powerful tribe, mentioned -when treating of the regions about Tura.</p> - -<p>The Wahinda (in the singular Muhinda) are, according -to some Arabs, a foreign and ruling family, who -coming from a distant country, probably in the neighbourhood -of Somaliland, conquered the lands, and became -Sultans. This opinion seems to rest upon physical peculiarities,—the -superiority of the Wahinda in figure, -stature, and complexion to their subjects suggesting a -difference of origin. Others explain the word Muhinda -to mean a cadet of royal family, and call the class Bayt -el Saltanah, or the Kingly House. Thus, whilst Armanika -is the Mkámá or Sovereign of Karagwah, his -brother simply takes the title of Muhinda. These conflicting -statements may be reconciled by the belief -general in the country that the families of the Sultans -are a foreign and a nobler race, the date of whose immigration -has long fallen into oblivion. This may be -credited without difficulty; the physique of the rulers—approximating -more to the northern races of Africa—is -markedly less negroid than that of their subjects, and -the difference is too great to be explained by the effects -of climate or of superior diet, comfort, and luxury.</p> - -<p>The Wahinda are found in the regions of Usui, -Karagwah, Uhha, Uvinza, Uyungu, Ujiji, and Urundi, -where they live in boma—stockades—and scattered -villages. Of this race are the Sultans Suwarora of the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-220">[220]</span> -Wasui, Armanika of Karagwah, Kanoni of Uhha, Kanze -of Uyungu, Mzogera of Uvinza, Rusimba of Ujiji, -Mwezi of Urundi, Mnyamurunde of Uyofo, Gaetawa of -Uhayya, and Mutawazi of Utumbara. The Wahinda -affect a milk diet which is exceedingly fattening, and -anoint themselves plentifully with butter and ghee, to -soften and polish the skin. They never sell their fellow -clansmen, are hospitable and civil to strangers, seldom -carry arms, fear nothing from the people, and may not -be slain even in battle. Where the Wahinda reign, -their ministers are the Watosi, a race which has been -described when treating of their head-quarters Karagwah.</p> - -<p>The Wataturu extend from the Mángewá district, two -marches northward of Tura in a north-north-westerly -diagonal, to Usmáo, a district of Usukuma, at the south-east -angle of the Nyanza Lake. On the north and east -they are limited by the Wahumba, on the south by the -people of Iramba, and there is said to be a connection -between these three tribes. This wild pastoral people -were formerly rich in flocks and herds; they still have -the best asses in the country. About five years ago, -however, they were persuaded by Msimbira, a chief of -Usukuma, to aid him against his rival Mpagamo, who -had called in the Arabs to his assistance. During the -long and bitter contest which ensued, the Arabs, as has -been related, were worsted in the field, and the Wataturu -suffered severe losses in cattle. Shortly before the -arrival of the Expedition at Kazeh the foreign merchants -had despatched to Utaturu a plundering party of sixty -slave-musketeers, who, however, suddenly attacked by -the people, were obliged to fly, leaving behind eighteen -of their number. This event was followed by a truce, -and the Wataturu resumed their commerce with Tura -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-221">[221]</span> -and Unyanyembe, where, in 1858, a caravan, numbering -about 300 men, came in. Two small parties of this -people were also met at Tura; they were small, dark, -and ugly savages, almost beardless, and not unlike the -“Thakur” people in Maharatta-land. Their asses, provided -with neat saddle-bags of zebra skin, were better -dressed than the men, who wore no clothing except the -simplest hide-sandals. According to the Arabs this clan -affects nudity: even adult maidens dispense with the -usual skin-kilt. The men ignored bows and arrows, but -they were efficiently armed with long spears, double-edged -sime, and heavy hide shields. They brought -calabash or monkey-bread flour—in this country, as in -Ugogo, a favourite article of consumption—and a little -coarse salt, collected from the dried mud of a Mbuga or -swamp in the land of Iramba, to be bartered for holcus -and beads. Their language sounded to the unpractised -ear peculiarly barbarous, and their savage suspiciousness -rendered it impossible to collect any specimens.</p> - -<p>At Kazeh, sorely to my disappointment, it was finally -settled, in a full conclave of Arabs, that we must return -to the coast by the tedious path with which we were -already painfully familiar. At Ujiji the state of our -finances had been the sole, though the sufficient obstacle -to our traversing Africa from east to west; we might—had -we possessed the means—by navigating the Tanganyika -southwards, have debouched, after a journey of -three months, at Kilwa. The same cause prevented us -from visiting the northern kingdoms of Karagwah and -Uganda; to effect this exploration, however, we should -have required not only funds but time. The rains there -setting in about September render travelling impossible; -our two years’ leave of absence were drawing to a close, -and even had we commanded a sufficient outfit, we were -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-222">[222]</span> -not disposed to risk the consequences of taking an extra -twelve months. No course, therefore, remained but to -regain the coast. We did not, however, give up hopes -of making our return useful to geography, by tracing -the course of the Rwaha or Rufijí River, and of visiting -the coast between the Usagara Mountains and -Kilwa, an unknown line not likely to attract future -travellers.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="container" id="Illoii-4"> -<img src="images/ii_illo238.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">SAYDUMI, A NATIVE OF UGANDA.</p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-223">[223]</span></p> - -<div class="container w40em" id="Illoii-12"> -<img src="images/ii_illo239.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">Mgongo Thembo, or the Elephant’s Back.</p> -</div> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapno">CHAP. XVII.</span><br /> -<span class="chapname">THE DOWN-MARCH TO THE COAST.</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p class="noindent">On the 5th September 1858, Musa Mzuri—handsome -Moses, as he was called by the Africans—returned with -great pomp to Kazeh after his long residence at Karagwah. -Some details concerning this merchant, who -has played a conspicuous part in the eventful “<i>peripéties</i>” -of African discovery, may be deemed well placed.</p> - -<p>About thirty-five years ago, Musa, a Moslem of the -Kojah sect, and then a youth, was driven by poverty -from his native Surat to follow his eldest brother -“Sayyan,” who having sought fortune at Zanzibar, and -having been provided with an outfit by the Sayyid el -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-224">[224]</span> -Laghbari, then governor of the island, made sundry -journeys into the interior. About 1825, the brothers -first visited the Land of the Moon, preceding the Arab -travellers, who in those days made their markets at -Usanga and Usenga, distant about a dozen marches to -the S.S.E. of Kazeh. Musa describes Unyamwezi as -richly cultivated, and he has not forgotten the hospitable -reception of the people. The brothers bought up -a little venture of forty Farasilah or twenty men’s loads -of cloth and beads, and returned with a joint stock of -800 Farasilah (800 × 35 = 28,000 lbs. avoirdupois) in -ivory; as Sayyan died on the road, all fell to Musa’s -share. Since that time he has made five journeys to -the coast and several to the northern kingdoms. About -four years ago Armanika, the present Sultan of Karagwah, -was besieged in a palisaded village by a rebel -brother Rumanika. On this occasion Musa, in company -with the king, endured great hardships, and incurred no -little risk; when both parties were weary of fighting, -he persuaded, by a large bribe of ivory, Suna, the -powerful despot of the neighbouring kingdom of -Uganda, to raise the siege, by throwing a strong force -into the field. He has ever since been fraternally -received by Armanika, and his last journey to Karagwah -was for the purpose of recovering part of the -ivory expended in the king’s cause. After an absence -of fifteen months he brought back about a score of -splendid tusks, one weighing, he declared, upwards of -200 lbs. During his detention Salim bin Sayf, of -Dut’humi, who had been entrusted by Musa with sixty-five -Farasilah of ivory to barter for goods on the coast, -arrived at Unyanyembe, when hearing the evil tidings, -the wily Harisi appropriated the property and returned -to whence he came. Like most merchants in East Africa, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-225">[225]</span> -Musa’s business is extensive, but his gains are principally -represented by outlying debts; he cannot, therefore, -leave the country without an enormous sacrifice. -He is the recognised Doyen of the commercial body, -and he acts agent and warehouseman; his hall is usually -full of buyers and sellers, Arab and African, and large -investments of wires, beads, and cotton-cloths, some of -them valuable, are regularly forwarded to him with -comforts and luxuries from the coast.</p> - -<p>Musa Mzuri is now a man of the uncertain “certain -age” between forty-five and fifty, thin-bearded, tall, -gaunt, with delicate extremities, and with the regular -and handsome features of a high-caste Indian Moslem. -Like most of his compatriots, he is a man of sad and -staid demeanour, and he is apparently faded by opium, -which so tyrannises over him that he carries pills in -every pocket, and stores them, lest the hoard should run -short, in each corner and cranny of his house. His clean -new dress, perfumed with jasmine-oil and sandal-wood, -his snowy skull-cap and well-fitting sandals, distinguish -him in appearance from the Arabs; and his abode, -which is almost a village, with its lofty gates and -its spacious courts, full of slaves and hangers-on, contrasts -with the humility of the Semite tenements.</p> - -<p>On arrival at Kazeh I forwarded to Musa the introductory -letter with which H. H. the Sayyid Majid -had honoured me. Sundry civilities passed between -his housekeeper, Mama Khamisi, and ourselves; she supplied -the Baloch with lodgings and ourselves with milk, -for which we were careful to reward her. After returning -from Ujiji we found Abdullah, the eldest of -Musa’s two sons by different slave girls, resting at -Kazeh after his down-march from Karagwah. He -knew a few words of English, but he had learned no -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-226">[226]</span> -Hindostani from his father, who curious to say, after -an expatriation of thirty-five years, still spoke his -mother-tongue purely and well. The youth would -have become a greater favourite had he not been so -hard a drinker and so quarrelsome in his cups; on -more than one occasion he had dangerously cut or -stabbed his servile boon-companions. Musa had spared -the rod, or had used it upon him to very little purpose; -after intruding himself repeatedly into the hall and -begging for handsome clothes, with more instance of -freedom than consisted with decorum, he was warned -that if he stayed away it might be the better for his -back, and he took the warning.</p> - -<p>Musa, when rested after his weary return-march, -called upon me with all due ceremony, escorted by the -principal Arab merchants. I was not disappointed in -finding him wholly ignorant concerning Africa and -things African; Snay bin Amir had told me that such -was the case. He had, however, a number of slaves -fresh from Karagwah and Uganda, who confirmed the -accounts previously received from Arab travellers in -those regions. Musa displayed even more hospitality -than his fellow-travellers. Besides the mbogoro or -skinful of grain and the goat usually offered to fresh -arrivals, he was ever sending those little presents of -provisions which in the East cannot be refused without -offence. I narrowly prevented his killing a bullock to -provide us with beef, and at last I feared to mention a -want before him. During his frequent visits he invariably -showed himself a man of quiet and unaffected -manners, dashed with a little Indian reserve, which in -process of time would probably have worn off.</p> - -<p>On the 6th September, Said bin Salim, nervously impatient -to commence the march homewards, “made a -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-227">[227]</span> -khambi,” that is to say, pitched our tents under a spreading -tree outside and within sight of Kazeh. Although he had -been collecting porters for several days, only two came -to the fore; a few refreshing showers were falling at the -autumnal equinox, and the black peasantry so miscalculated -the seasons that they expected the immediate advent -of the great Masika. Moreover, when informed that our -route would debouch at Kilwa, they declared that they -must receive double pay, as they could not expect there -to be hired by return caravans. That the “khambi” -might assume an appearance of reality, the Baloch were -despatched into “country-quarters.” As they followed -their usual tactic, affecting eagerness to depart but -privily clinging to the pleasures of Kazeh, orders were -issued definitively to “cut” their rations in case of -necessity. The sons of Ramji, who had returned -from Msene, without, however, intrusion or swagger, -were permitted to enter the camp. Before the march I -summoned them, and in severe terms recapitulated their -misdeeds, warned them that they would not be re-engaged, -and allowed them provisions and protection -only on condition of their carrying, as the slaves of -Arab merchants are expected to do, our lighter valuables, -such as the digester, medicine-chest, gun-cases, -camp-table and chair. They promised with an edifying -humility to reform. I was compelled, however to enliven -their murmuring by a few slight floggings before -they would become amenable to a moral rule, and -would acquire those habits of regularity which are as -chains and fetters to the African man. The five -Wak’hutu porters who, after robbing and deserting us -on the road to Ujiji, had taken service with my old acquaintance, -Salim bin Rashid—the well-informed Coast -Arab merchant, originally named by H. H. the Sayyid -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-228">[228]</span> -Majid, as my guide and caravan leader,—begged hard -to be again employed. I positively refused to see them. -If at this distance from home they had perjured themselves -and had plundered us, what might be expected -when they arrived near their native country?</p> - -<p>As the time of departure approached, I regretted that -the arrival of several travellers had not taken place a -month earlier. Salim bin Rashid, whilst collecting ivory -in Usukuma and to the eastward of the Nyanza Lake, -had recovered a Msawahili porter, who, falling sick on -the road, had been left by a caravan from Tanga amongst -the wildest of the East African tribes, the Wamasai or -Wahumba. From this man, who spent two years -amongst those plunderers and their rivals in villany -the Warudi, I derived some valuable information concerning -the great northern route which spans the -countries lying between the coast and the Nyanza Lake. -I was also called upon by Amayr bin Said el Shaksi, a -strong-framed and stout-hearted greybeard, who, when -his vessel foundered in the waters of the Tanganyika, -saved his life by swimming, and as he had no goods and -but few of his slaves had survived, lived for five months -on roots and grasses, till restored to Ujiji by an Arab -canoe. A garrulous senior, fond of “venting his -travels,” he spent many hours with me, talking over -his past adventures, and his ocular knowledge of the -Tanganyika enabled me to gather many, perhaps, reliable -details concerning its southern extremity. A few days -before departure Hilal bin Nasur, a well-born Harisi, -returned from K’hokoro; he supplied me with a list of -stations and a lengthy description of his various excursions -to the southern provinces.<a id="FNanchorii14"></a><a href="#Footnoteii14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a></p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnoteii14"></a><a href="#FNanchorii14"><span class="label">[14]</span></a> -For this and other purely geographical details concerning the Southern -Provinces, the reader is referred to the Journal of the Royal Geographical -Society, vol. xxix. 1860.</p> - -</div><!--footnote--> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-229">[229]</span></p> - -<p>Said bin Salim, in despair that the labours of a whole -fortnight spent in the jungle had produced the slenderest -of results, moved from under the tree in Kazeh plain -to Masui, a dirty little village distant about three miles -to the east of our head-quarters. As he reported on the -25th of September that his gang was nearly completed, -I sent forward all but the personal baggage. The -Arab had, however, secured but three Hammals or -bearers for my hammock; one a tottering old man, the -other a knock-kneed boy, and the third a notorious -skulk. Although supplied with meat to strengthen -them, as they expressed it, they broke down after a -single march. From that time, finding it useless to -engage bearers for a long journey in these lands, I -hired men from district to district, and dismissed them -when tired. The only objection to this proceeding was -its inordinate expense: three cloths being generally -demanded by the porter for thirty miles. A little -calculation will give an idea of the relative cost of -travelling in Africa and in Europe. Assuming each man -to receive one cloth, worth one dollar, for every ten -miles, and that six porters are required to carry the -hammock, we have in Africa an expenditure on carriage -alone of nearly half a crown per mile: in most parts of -Europe travel on the iron road has been reduced to one -penny.</p> - -<p>Our return from Unyanyembe to the coast was to -take place during the dead season, when provisions are -most expensive and are not unfrequently unprocurable. -But being “Wazungu” and well provided with “African -money,” we might expect the people to sell to us their -grain and stores, which they would have refused at -tariff-prices to Arabs or Wasawahili. We carried as -stock fourteen porters’ loads of cloth, viz., 645 domestics, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-230">[230]</span> -653 blue-cottons, and 20 coloured cloths, -principally Debwani, Barsati, and Subai, as presents -to chiefs. The supply of beads was represented by -one load of ububu or black-porcelains—afterwards -thrown away as useless—half a Frasilah (17·5 pounds) -of “locust-legs,” or pink-porcelains, purchased from -Sallum bin Hamid, and eight Kartasat or papered-bundles -of the heavy and expensive “town-breakers,” -vermilion or coral-porcelains, amounting to seventy -Fundo, each of which covered as a rule the day’s minor -expenses. The other stores were the fifty-four Jembe -purchased at Msene, besides a few brought from -Usukuma by my companion. These articles are useful -in making up kuhonga or blackmail; in Ugogo and -Usagara, which is their western limit, they double in -value, and go even further than a white cotton-cloth. -Finally, we had sixteen cows, heifers, and calves, bought -in Usukuma by my companion, at the rate of six -domestics per head. We expected them to be serviceable -as presents, and meanwhile to add materially to -our comfort by a more regular supply of milk than -the villages afford. But, alas! having neglected to -mark the animals, all were changed—a fact made -evident by their running dry after a few days: the -four calves presently died of fatigue; whenever an -animal lay down upon the road its throat was summarily -cut, others were left to stray and be stolen, and -the last bullock preserved for a sirloin on Christmas -was prematurely lost. A small per-centage proved -useful as tribute to the chiefs of Ugogo, and served as -rations when grain was unprocurable. The African, -however, looks upon meat, not as “Posho”—daily -bread—but as kitoweyo—kitchen: two or three -pounds of beef merely whet his teeth for the usual -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-231">[231]</span> -Ugali or porridge of boiled flour. It is almost needless -to state that, despite the best surveillance and the -strictest economy, we arrived at the coast almost destitute; -cloth and beads, hoes and cattle, all had disappeared, -and had we possessed treble the quantity, it -would have gone the same way.</p> - -<p>The 26th September, 1858, saw us on foot betimes. -The hospitable Snay bin Amir, freshly recovered from -an influenza which had confined him for some days to -his sleeping-mat, came personally to superintend our -departure. As no porters had returned for property -left behind, and as all the “cooking-pots” had preceded -us on the yester, Snay supplied us with his own slaves, -and provided us with an Arab breakfast, well cooked, and -as usual, neatly served on porcelain plates, with plaited -and coloured straw dish-covers, pointed like Chinese -caps. Then, promising to spend the next day with me, -he shook hands and followed me out of the compound. -After a march of three miles, under a white-hot sun, -and through a chilling wind, to which were probably -owing our subsequent sufferings, we entered the dirty -little village of Masui, where a hovel had been prepared -for us by Said bin Salim. There we were greeted by -the caravan, and we heard with pleasure that it was -ready, after a fashion, to break ground.</p> - -<p>Early on the next morning appeared Snay bin Amir -and Musa Mzuri: as I was suffering from a slight -attack of fever, my companion took my place as host. -The paroxysm passing off, allowed me to settle all -accounts with Snay bin Amir, and to put a finishing -touch to the names of stations in the journal. I then -thanked these kind-hearted men for their many good -deeds, and promised to report to H. H. the Sayyid -Majid the hospitable reception of his Arab subjects -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-232">[232]</span> -generally, and of Snay and Musa in particular. About -evening time I shook hands with Snay bin Amir—having -so primed the dear old fellow with a stirrup-cup -of burnt-punch, that his gait and effusion of manner -were by no means such as became a staid and stately -Arab Shaykh.</p> - -<p>On the 4th October, after a week of halts and snail’s -marches—the insufficiency of porterage compelled me -to send back men for the articles left behind at the -several villages—we at last reached Hanga, our former -quarters on the eastern confines of the Unyanyembe district. -As long as we were within easy distance of -Kazeh it was impossible to keep the sons of Ramji -in camp, and their absence interfered materially with -the completion of the gang. Several desertions took -place, a slave given by Kannena of Ujiji to Said bin -Salim, old Musangesi the Asinego, and two new purchases, -male and female, made by the Baloch at Kazeh, -disappeared after the first few marches. The porters -were troublesome. They had divided themselves as -usual into Khambi, or crews, but no regular Kirangozi -having been engaged, they preferred, through mutual -jealousy, following Shehe, one of the sons of Ramji. -On the road, also, some heads had been broken, because -the cattle-drivers had attempted to precede the line, -and I feared that the fall of a chance shower might -make the whole squad desert, under the impression that -the sowing season had set in. In their idleness and -want of excitement, they had determined to secure at -Hanga the bullock claimed by down caravans at Rubuga. -After four days’ halt, without other labour but -that of cooking, they arose under pretext of a blow -given by one of the children of Said bin Salim, and -packing up their goods and chattels, poured in mass, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-233">[233]</span> -with shouts and yells, from the village, declaring that -they were going home. In sore tribulation, Said bin -Salim and the Jemadar begged me to take an active -part, but a short experience of similar scenes amongst -the Bashi-Buzuks at the Dardanelles had made me -wiser than my advisers: the African, like the Asiatic, -is naturally averse to the operation proverbially called -“cutting off one’s own nose;” but if begged not to do -so, he may wax, like pinioned men, valorous exceedingly, -and dare the suicidal deed. I did not move from my -hut, and in half an hour everything was <i>in statu quo -ante</i>. The porters had thrown the blame of the proceeding -upon the blow, consequently a flogging was -ordered for Said bin Salim’s “child,” who, as was ever -the case, had been flagrantly in the wrong; but after -return, evading the point, the plaintiffs exposed the -true state of affairs by a direct reference to the bullock. -Thus the “child” escaped castigation, and the -bullock was not given till we reached Rubuga.</p> - -<p>At Hanga my companion was taken seriously ill. -He had been chilled on the line of march by the cruel -easterly wind, and at the end of the second march -from Kazeh he appeared trembling as if with ague. -Immediately after arrival at the foul village of Hanga—where -we lodged in a kind of cow-house, full of -vermin, and exposed directly to the fury of the cold -gales—he complained, in addition to a deaf ear, an inflamed -eye, and a swollen face, of a mysterious pain -which often shifted its seat, and which he knew not -whether to attribute to liver or to spleen. It began -with a burning sensation, as by a branding-iron, above -the right breast, and then extended to the heart with -sharp twinges. After ranging around the spleen, it -attacked the upper part of the right lung, and finally -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-234">[234]</span> -it settled in the region of the liver. On the 10th October, -suddenly waking about dawn from a horrible -dream, in which a close pack of tigers, leopards, and -other beasts, harnessed with a network of iron hooks, -were dragging him like the rush of a whirlwind over -the ground, he found himself sitting up on the side of -his bedding, forcibly clasping both sides with his hands. -Half-stupefied by pain, he called Bombay, who having -formerly suffered from the “Kichyoma-chyoma”—the -“little irons”—raised his master’s right arm, placed -him in a sitting position, as lying down was impossible, -and directed him to hold the left ear behind the head, -thus relieving the excruciating and torturing twinges, -by lifting the lung from the liver. The next spasm -was less severe, but the sufferer’s mind had begun to -wander, and he again clasped his sides, a proceeding -with which Bombay interfered.</p> - -<p>Early on the next morning, my companion, supported -by Bombay and Gaetano, staggered towards the tent. -Nearing the doorway, he sent in his Goanese, to place -a chair for sitting, as usual, during the toils of the day, -outside. The support of an arm being thus removed, -ensued a second and violent spasm of cramps and -twinges, all the muscles being painfully contracted. -After resting for a few moments, he called his men to -assist him into the house. But neglecting to have a -chair previously placed for him, he underwent a third -fit of the same epileptic description, which more closely -resembled those of hydrophobia than aught I had ever -witnessed. He was once more haunted by a crowd of -hideous devils, giants, and lion-headed demons, who -were wrenching, with superhuman force, and stripping -the sinews and tendons of his legs down to the ankles. -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-235">[235]</span> -At length, sitting, or rather lying upon the chair, with -limbs racked by cramps, features drawn and ghastly, -frame fixed and rigid, eyes glazed and glassy, he began -to utter a barking noise, and a peculiar chopping motion -of the mouth and tongue, with lips protruding—the -effect of difficulty of breathing—which so altered his -appearance that he was hardly recognisable, and completed -the terror of the beholders. When this, the -third and the severest spasm, had passed away, he called -for pen and paper, and fearing that increased weakness -of mind and body might presently prevent any exertion, -he wrote an incoherent letter of farewell to his family. -That, however, was the crisis. He was afterwards able -to take the proper precautions, never moving without -assistance, and always ordering a resting-place to be -prepared for him. He spent a better night, with the -inconvenience, however, of sitting up, pillow-propped, -and some weeks elapsed before he could lie upon his -sides. Presently, the pains were mitigated, though -they did not entirely cease: this he expressed by saying -that “the knives were sheathed.” Such, gentle -reader, in East Africa, is the kichyoma-chyoma: either -one of those eccentric after-effects of fever, which perplex -the European at Zanzibar, or some mysterious -manifestation of the Protean demon Miasma.</p> - -<p>I at once sent an express to Snay bin Amir for the -necessary drugs. The Arabs treat this complaint by -applying to the side powdered myrrh mixed with yoke -of egg, and converted into a poultice with flour of -mung (Phaseolus Mungo). The material was duly -forwarded, but it proved of little use. Said bin Salim -meanwhile, after sundry vague hints concerning the -influence of the Father of Hair, the magnificent comet -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-236">[236]</span> -then spanning the western skies, insisted, as his people -invariably do on such conjunctures, upon my companion -being visited by the mganga, or medicine-man of the -caravan. That reverend personage, after claiming and -receiving the usual fee, a fat goat, anointed with its -grease two little bits of wood strung on to a tape of -tree-fibre, and contented himself with fastening this -Mpigi—the negroid’s elixir vitæ—round my companion’s -waist. The ligature, however, was torn off -after a few minutes, as its only effect was to press upon -and pain the tenderest part.</p> - -<p>During the forced halt which followed my companion’s -severe attack, I saw that, in default of physic, change of -air was the most fitting restorative. My benumbed legs -and feet still compelling me to use a hammock, a second -was rigged up for the invalid; and by good fortune -thirteen unloaded porters of a down caravan consented -to carry us both for a large sum to Rubuga. The sons -of Ramji were imperatively ordered to leave Kazeh -under pain of dismissal, which none would incur as they -had a valuable investment in slaves: with their aid the -complement of porters was easily and speedily filled -up.</p> - -<p>Seedy Mubarak Bombay—in the interior the name -became Mamba (a crocodile) or Pombe (small beer)—had -long before returned to his former attitude, that of -a respectful and most ready servant. He had, it is -true, sundry uncomfortable peculiarities. A heaven-born -“Pagazi,” he would load himself on the march -with his “T’haka-t’haka,” or “chow-chow,” although a -porter had been especially hired for him. He had no -memory: an article once taken by him was always -thrown upon the ground and forgotten: in a single trip -he broke my elephant gun, killed my riding-ass, and lost -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-237">[237]</span> -its bridle. Like the Eastern Africans generally, he -lacked the principle of immediate action; if beckoned -to for a gun in the field he would probably first delay -to look round, then retire, and lastly advance. He had -a curious inverted way of doing all that he did. The -water-bottle was ever carried on the march either uncorked -or inverted; his waistcoat was generally wound -round his neck, and it appeared fated not to be properly -buttoned; whilst he walked bareheaded in the sun, his -Fez adorned the tufty poll of some comrade; and at the -halt he toiled like a charwoman to raise our tents and -to prepare them for habitation, whilst his slave, the -large lazy Maktubu, a boy-giant from the mountains of -Urundi, sat or dozed under the cool shade. Yet with -all his faults and failures Bombay, for his unwearied -activity, and especially from his undeviating honesty,—there -was no man, save our “Negro Rectitude,” in -the whole camp who had not proved his claim to the -title triliteral—was truly valuable. Said bin Salim -had long forfeited my confidence by his carelessness and -extravagance; and the disappearance of the outfit committed -to him at Ujiji, in favour, as I afterwards learned, -of an Arab merchant-friend, rendered him unfit for the -responsibilities of stewardship.</p> - -<p>Having summoned Said bin Salim, I told him with all -gentleness, in order to spare his “shame”—the Persian -proverb says, Fell not the tree which thou hast planted—that -being now wiser in Eastern African travel than -before, I intended to relieve him of his troublesome -duties. He heard this announcement with the wriest of -faces; and his perturbation was not diminished when -informed that the future distribution of cloth should be -wholly in the hands of Bombay, checked by my companion’s -superintendence. The loads were accordingly -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-238">[238]</span> -numbered and registered; the Pagazi were forbidden, -under pain of punishment, to open or to change them -without permission; and Said bin Salim received, like -the Baloch, a certain monthly amount of beads, besides -rations of rice for the consumption of his children. -This arrangement was persevered in till we separated -upon the seaboard: it acted well, saving outfit, time, -and a host of annoyances; moreover, it gave us command, -as the African man, like the lower animals, -respects only, if he respects anything, the hand that -gives, that feeds him. It was wonderful to see how the -“bone of contention,” cloth, having been removed, the -fierceness of those who were formerly foes melted and -merged into friendship and fraternisation. The triad -of bitter haters, Said bin Salim, the monocular Jemadar, -and Muinyi Kidogo, now marched and sat and ate -together as if never weary of such society; they praised -one another openly and without reserve, and if an evil -tale ever reached my ear its subject was the innocent -Bombay—its object was to ruin him in my estimation.</p> - -<p>Acutely remembering the trouble caused by the feuds -between Said bin Salim and Kidogo upon the subject of -work, I directed the former to take sole charge of the -porters, to issue their rations, and to superintend their -loads. The better to assist him, two disorderly sons of -Ramji were summarily flogged, and several others -who refused to carry our smaller valuables were reduced -to order by the usual process of stopping rations. -“Shehe,” though chosen as Kirangozi or guide from -motives of jealousy by the porters, was turned out of -office; he persisted in demanding cloth for feeing an -Unyamwezi medicine-man, in order to provide him, a -Moslem! with charms against the evil eye, a superstition -unknown to this part of Eastern Africa. The Pagazi, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-239">[239]</span> -ordered to elect one of their number, named the youth -Twánígáná, who had brought with him a large gang. -But the plague of the party, a hideous, puckered, and -scowling old man who had called himself “Muzungu -Mbaya,” or the “Wicked White,” so far prevailed that -at the first halt Twanigana, with his blushing honours -in the shape of a scarlet waistcoat fresh upon him, was -found squatting solus under a tree, the rest of the party -having mutinously preceded him. I halted at once -and recalled the porters, who, after a due interval of -murmuring, reappeared. And subsequently, by invariably -siding with the newly-made Kirangozi, and by -showing myself ready to enforce obedience by any means -and every means, I gave the long-legged and weak-minded -youth, who was called “Gopa-Gopa”—“Funk-stick”—on -account of his excessive timidity, a little -confidence, and reduced his unruly followers to all the -discipline of which their race is capable.</p> - -<p>As we were threatened with want of water on the way, -I prepared for that difficulty by packing a box with -empty bottles, which, when occasion required, might be -filled at the best springs. The Zemzemiyah or travelling -canteen of the East African is everywhere a long-necked -gourd, slung to the shoulder by a string. But -it becomes offensive after a short use, and it can never -be entrusted to servant, slave, or porter without its -contents being exhausted before a mile is measured.</p> - -<p>By these arrangements, the result of that after-wisdom -which some have termed fools’ wit, I commenced -the down march under advantages, happy as a -“<i>bourgeois</i>” of trappers in the joyous <i>pays sauvage</i>. I -have detailed perhaps to a wearisome length the preparations -for the march. But the success of such expeditions -mainly depends upon the measures adopted -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-240">[240]</span> -before and immediately after departure, and this dry -knowledge may be useful to future adventurers in the -great cause of discovery.</p> - -<p>The stages now appeared shorter, the sun cooler, the -breeze warmer; after fourteen months of incessant fevers, -the party had become tolerably acclimatised; all were -now loud in praise, as they had been violent in censure, -of the “water and air.” Before entering the Fiery Field, -the hire for carrying the hammocks became so exorbitant -that I dismissed the bearers, drew on my jack-boots, -mounted the half-caste Zanzibari ass, and appeared -once more as the Mtongi of a caravan. After a -fortnight my companion had convalesced so rapidly -that he announced himself ready to ride. The severe -liver pains had disappeared, leaving behind them, however, -for a time, a harassing heart-ache and nausea, -with other bilious symptoms, which developed themselves -when exposed to the burning sun of the several -tirikeza. Gradually these sequelæ ceased, sleep and -appetite returned, and at K’hok’ho, in Ugogo, my companion -had strength enough to carry a heavy rifle, and -to do damage amongst the antelope and the guinea fowl. -Our Goanese servants also, after suffering severely from -fever and face-ache, became different men; Valentine, -blessed with a more strenuous diathesis, carried before -him a crop like a well-crammed capon. As the porters -left this country, and the escort approached their homes, -there was a notable change of demeanour. All waxed -civil, even to servility, grumbling ceased, and smiles -mantled every countenance. Even Muzungu Mbaya, -who in Unyamwezi had been the head and front of all -offence, was to be seen in Ugogo meekly sweeping out -our tents with a bunch of thorns.</p> - -<p>We left Hanga, the dirty cow-village, on the 13th -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-241">[241]</span> -October. The seven short marches between that place -and Tura occupied fifteen days, a serious waste of time -and cloth, caused by the craving of the porters for their -homes. It was also necessary to march with prudence, -collisions between the party and the country-people, -who are unaccustomed to see the articles which they -most covet carried out of the country, were frequent: -in fact we flew to arms about every second day, and -after infinite noise and chatter, we quitted them to boast -of the deeds of “derring do,” which had been consigned -to the limbo of things uncreate by the fainéance of the -adversary. At Eastern Tura, where we arrived on the -28th October, a halt of six days was occasioned by the necessity -of providing and preparing food, at that season scarce -and dear, for the week’s march through the Fiery Field. -The caravan was then mustered, when its roll appeared -as follows. We numbered in our own party two Europeans, -two Goanese, Bombay with two slaves—the -child-man Nasibu and the boy-giant Maktubu—the -bull-headed Mabruki, Nasir, a half-caste Mazrui Arab, -who had been sent with me by the Arabs of Kazeh to -save his morals, and Taufiki, a Msawahili youth, who -had taken service as gun-carrier to the coast: they -formed a total of 10 souls. Said bin Salim was accompanied -by 12—the charmers Halimah and Zawada, his -five children, and a little gang of five fresh captures, -male and female. The Baloch, 12 in number, had 15 -slaves and 11 porters, composing a total of 38. The -sons of Ramji, and the ass-drivers under Kidogo their -leader, were in all 24, including their new acquisitions. -Finally 68 Wanyamwezi porters, carrying the outfit and -driving the cattle, completed the party to 152 souls.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-242">[242]</span></p> - -<div class="container w40em" id="Illoii-13"> -<img src="images/ii_illo258.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">Jiwe la Mkoa, the Round Rock.</p> -</div> - -<p>On the 3rd November, the caravan issuing from Tura -plunged manfully into the Fiery Field, and after seven -marches in as many days, halted for breath and forage at -Jiwe la Mkoa, the Round Stone. A few rations having -been procured in its vicinity, we resumed our way on -the 12th November, and in two days exchanged, with a -sensible pleasure, the dull expanse of dry brown bush and -brushwood, dead thorn-trees, and dry Nullahs, for the -fertile red plain of Mdaburu. After that point began the -transit of Ugogo, where I had been taught to expect accidents: -they resolved themselves, however, into nothing -more than the disappearance of cloth and beads in inordinate -quantities. We were received by Magomba, the -Sultan of Kanyenye, with a charge of magic, for which -of course it was necessary to pay heavily. The Wanyamwezi -porters seemed even more timid on the down-journey -than on the up-march. They slank about like -curs, and the fierce look of a Mgogo boy was enough -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-243">[243]</span> -to strike a general terror. Twanigana, when safe in -the mountains of Usagara, would frequently indulge -me in a dialogue like the following, and it may serve as -a specimen of the present state of conversation in East -<span class="nowrap">Africa:—</span></p> - -<p>“The state, Mdula?” (<i>i.e.</i> Abdullah, a word unpronounceable -to Negroid organs.)</p> - -<p>“The state is very! (well) and thy state?”</p> - -<p>“The state is very! (well) and the state of Spikka? -(my companion).”</p> - -<p>“The state of Spikka is very! (well.)”</p> - -<p>“We have escaped the Wagogo (resumes Twanigana), -white man O!”</p> - -<p>“We have escaped, O my brother!”</p> - -<p>“The Wagogo are bad.”</p> - -<p>“They are bad.”</p> - -<p>“The Wagogo are very bad.”</p> - -<p>“They are very bad.”</p> - -<p>“The Wagogo are not good.”</p> - -<p>“They are not good.”</p> - -<p>“The Wagogo are not at all good.”</p> - -<p>“They are not at all good.”</p> - -<p>“I greatly feared the Wagogo, who kill the Wanyamwezi.”</p> - -<p>“Exactly so!”</p> - -<p>“But now I don’t fear them. I call them ——s and -——s, and I would fight the whole tribe, white man O!”</p> - -<p>“Truly so, O my brother!”</p> - -<p>And thus for two mortal hours, till my ennui turned -into marvel. Twanigana however was, perhaps, in -point of intellect somewhat below the usual standard of -African young men. Older and more experienced was -Muzungu Mbaya, and I often listened with no small -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-244">[244]</span> -amusement to the attempts made by the Baloch to impress -upon this truly African mind a respect for their -revelation. Gul Mohammed was the missionary of the -party: like Moslems generally, however, his thoughts -had been taught to run in one groove, and if disturbed -by startling objections, they were all abroad. Similarly -I have observed in the European old lady, that on such -subjects all the world must think with her, and I have -been suspected of drawing the long-bow when describing -the worship of gods with four arms, and goddesses with -two heads.</p> - -<p>Muzungu Mbaya, as the old hunks calls himself, -might be sitting deeply meditative, at the end of the -march, before the fire, warming his inner legs, smoking -his face, and ever and anon casting pleasant glances at -a small black earthen pipkin, whence arose the savoury -steam of meat and vegetables. A concatenation of ideas -induces Gul Mohammed to break into his favourite -theme.</p> - -<p>“And thou, Muzungu Mbaya, thou also must die!”</p> - -<p>“Ugh! ugh!” replies the Muzungu personally offended, -“don’t speak in that way! Thou must die too.”</p> - -<p>“It is a sore thing to die,” resumes Gul Mohammed.</p> - -<p>“Hoo! Hoo!” exclaims the other, “it is bad, very bad, -never to wear a nice cloth, no longer to dwell with one’s -wife and children, not to eat and drink, snuff, and smoke -tobacco. Hoo! Hoo! it is bad, very bad!”</p> - -<p>“But we shall eat,” rejoins the Moslem, “the flesh of -birds, mountains of meat, and delicate roasts, and drink -sugared water, and whatever we hunger for.”</p> - -<p>The African’s mind is disturbed by this tissue of contradictions. -He considers birds somewhat low feeding, -roasts he adores, he contrasts mountains of meat with -his poor half-pound in pot, he would sell himself for -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-245">[245]</span> -sugar; but again he hears nothing of tobacco; still he -takes the trouble to ask</p> - -<p>“Where, O my brother?”</p> - -<p>“There,” exclaims Gul Mohammed, pointing to the -skies.</p> - -<p>This is a “chokepear” to Muzungu Mbaya. The distance -is great, and he can scarcely believe that his -interlocutor has visited the firmament to see the provision; -he therefore ventures upon the query,</p> - -<p>“And hast thou been there, O my brother?”</p> - -<p>“Astaghfar ullah (I beg pardon of Allah)!” ejaculates -Gul Mohammed, half angry, half amused. “What a -mshenzi (pagan) this is! No, my brother, I have not exactly -been there, but my Mulungu (Allah) told my Apostle<a id="FNanchorii15"></a><a href="#Footnoteii15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a>, -who told his descendants, who told my father and -mother, who told me, that when we die we shall go to -a Shamba (a plantation), where——”</p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnoteii15"></a><a href="#FNanchorii15"><span class="label">[15]</span></a> -Those who translate Rasul, meaning, literally, “one sent,” by prophet -instead of apostle, introduce a notable fallacy into the very formula of -Moslem faith. Mohammed never pretended to prophecy in our sense of -foretelling future events.</p> - -</div><!--footnote--> - -<p>“Oof!” grunts Muzungu Mbaya, “it is good of you to -tell us all this Upumbafu (nonsense) which your mother -told you. So there are plantations in the skies?”</p> - -<p>“Assuredly,” replies Gul Mohammed, who expounds -at length the Moslem idea of paradise to the African’s -running commentary of “Nenda we!” (be off!), “Mama-e!” -(O my mother!) and “Tumbanina,” which may not be -translated.</p> - -<p>Muzungu Mbaya, who for the last minute has been -immersed in thought, now suddenly raises his head; -and, with somewhat of a goguenard air, inquires:</p> - -<p>“Well then, my brother, thou knowest all things! -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-246">[246]</span> -answer me, is thy Mulungu black like myself, white -like this Muzungu, or whity-brown as thou art?”</p> - -<p>Gul Mohammed is fairly floored: he ejaculates sundry -la haul! to collect his wits for the <span class="nowrap">reply,—</span></p> - -<p>“Verily the Mulungu hath no colour.”</p> - -<p>“To-o-oh! Tuh!” exclaims the Muzunga, contorting -his wrinkled countenance, and spitting with disgust -upon the ground. He was now justified in believing -that he had been made a laughing-stock. The mountain -of meat had, to a certain extent, won over his better -judgment: the fair vision now fled, and left him to the -hard realities of the half-pound. He turns a deaf ear -to every other word; and, devoting all his assiduity to -the article before him, he unconsciously obeys the -advice which many an Eastern philosopher has inculcated -to his <span class="nowrap">disciples—</span></p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - -<div class="stanza"> -<span class="verse indent00">“Hold fast the hour, though fools say nay,<br /></span> -<span class="verse indent2">The spheres revolve, they bring thee sorrow;<br /></span> -<span class="verse indent0">The wise enjoys his joy to-day,<br /></span> -<span class="verse indent2">The fool shall joy his joy to-morrow.”<br /></span> -</div><!--stanza--> - -</div><!--poetry--> -</div><!--poetry-container--> - -<p>The transit of Ugogo occupied three weeks, from -the 14th of November to the 5th of December. In -Kanyenye we were joined by a large down-caravan of -Wanyamwezi, carrying ivories; the musket-shots which -announced the conclusion of certain brotherly ties -between the sons of Ramji and the porters, sounded in -my ears like minute-guns announcing the decease of -our hopes of a return to the coast viâ Kilwa. At -Kanyenye, also, we met the stout Msawahili Abdullah -bin Nasib, alias Kisesa, who was once more marching -into Unyamwezi: he informed me that the slaughter of -Salim bin Nasir, the Bu-Saidi, and the destruction of -the Rubeho settlements, after the murder of a porter, -had closed our former line through Usagara. He -also supplied me with valuable tea and sugar, and -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-247">[247]</span> -my companion with a quantity of valueless, or perhaps -misunderstood, information, which I did not deem -worth sifting. On the 6th of December, arrived at -our old ground in the Ugogi Dhun, we were greeted -by a freshly-arrived caravan, commanded by Jumah -bin Mbwana and his two brothers, half-caste Hindi or -Indian Moslems, from Mombasah.</p> - -<p>The Hindis, after receiving and returning news with -much solemnity, presently drew forth a packet of letters -and papers, which as usual promised trouble. This time, -however, the post was to produce the second manner -of annoyance—official “wigging,”—the first being -intelligence of private misfortune. Imprimis, came a -note from Captain Rigby, the newly-appointed successor -to Lieut.-Col. Hamerton at Zanzibar, and that name was -not nice in the nostrils of men. Secondly, the following -pleasant announcement. I give the whole letter:</p> - -<div class="letter"> - -<p><span class="smcap">Dear Burton</span>,—Go ahead! Vogel and Macguire -dead—murdered. Write often to -<span class="righttext padr2">Yours truly, N. S.</span></p> - -</div><!--letter--> - -<p class="allclear">And thirdly came the inevitable official wig.</p> - -<p>Convinced, by sundry conversations with Arabs and -others at Suez and Aden, during my last overland journey -to India, and by the details supplied to me by a naval officer -who was thoroughly conversant with the Red Sea, that, -in consequence of the weakness and insufficiency of the -squadron then employed, slavery still flourished, and that -the numerous British subjects and protegés were inadequately -protected, I had dared, after arrival at Zanzibar, -privately to address on the 15th of December, 1856, a -letter upon the subject to the secretary of the Royal -Geographical Society. It contained an “Account of -Political Affairs in the Red Sea,”—to quote the words -of the paper, and expressed a hope that it might be -“deemed worthy to be transmitted to the Court of -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-248">[248]</span> -Directors, or to the Foreign Office.”<a id="FNanchorii16"></a><a href="#Footnoteii16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a> The only acknowledgment -which I received, was the edifying information -that the Secretary to Government, Bombay, was directed -by the Right Honourable the Governor in Council, -Bombay, to state that my “want of discretion and due -regard for the authorities to whom I am subordinate, has -been regarded with displeasure by the Government.”</p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnoteii16"></a><a href="#FNanchorii16"><span class="label">[16]</span></a> -The whole correspondence, with its reply and counter-reply, are printed -in <a href="#Pageii-420">Appendix</a>.</p> - -</div><!--footnote--> - -<p>This was hard. I have perhaps been Quixotic enough -to attempt a suggestion that, though the Mediterranean -is fast becoming a French lake, by timely measures the -Red Sea may be prevented from being converted into a -Franco-Russo-Austrian lake. But an Englishman in -these days must be proud, very proud, of his nation, and -withal somewhat regretful that he was not born of some -mighty mother of men—such as Russia and America—who -has not become old and careless enough to leave -her bairns unprotected, or cold and crusty enough to -reward a little word of wisdom from her babes and -sucklings with a scolding or a buffet.</p> - -<p>The sore, however, had its salve. The official wig -was dated the 23rd of July, 1857. Posts are slow -in Africa. When received on the 5th of December, -1858, it was accompanied by a copy of a Bombay Newspaper, -which reported that on the 30th of June, 1858, -“a massacre of nearly all the Christians took place at -Juddah, on the Red Sea,” and that “it was apprehended -that the news from Juddah might excite the Arab -population of Suez to the commission of similar outrages.”</p> - -<p>At Ugogi, which, it will be remembered, is considered -the half-way station between Unyanyembe and the -coast, the sons of Ramji and the porters detained us -for a day, declaring that there was a famine upon the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-249">[249]</span> -Mukondokwa road which we had previously traversed. -At the same time they warned us that we should find -the great chief, who has given a name to the Kiringawana -route, an accomplished extortioner, and one -likely to insist upon our calling upon him in person. -Having given their ultimatum, they would not recede -from it: for us, therefore, nothing remained but to make -a virtue of necessity. We loaded on the 7th of December, -and commenced the passage of the Usagara -mountains by the Kiringawana line.</p> - -<p>I must indent upon the patience of the reader by a -somewhat detailed description of this southern route, -which is separated from the northern by a maximum -interval of forty-three miles. The former being the -more ancient, contains some settlements like Maroro -and Kisanga, not unknown by report to European geographers. -It is preferred by down-caravans, who have -no store of cloth to be demanded by the rapacious -chiefs: the up-country travellers, who have asses, must -frequent the Mukondokwa, on account of the severity -of the passes on the Kiringawana.</p> - -<p>The Kiringawana numbers nineteen short stages, -which may be accomplished without hardship in twelve -days, at the rate of about five hours per diem. Provisions -are procurable in almost every part, except when -the Warori are “out;” and water is plentiful, if not -good. Travel is rendered pleasant by long stretches -of forest land without bush or fetid grass. The principal -annoyances are the thievish propensities of the -natives and the extortionate demands of the chief. A -minor plague is that of mosquitoes, that haunt the rushy -banks of the hill rivulets, some of which are crossed -nine or ten times in the same day; moreover, the steep -and slippery ascents and descents of black earth and -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-250">[250]</span> -mud, or rough blocks of stone, make the porters unwilling -to work.</p> - -<p>Breaking ground at 6 <span class="smcapall">A.M.</span> on the 7th December, we -marched to Murundusi, the frontier of Usagara and -Uhehe. The path lay over a rolling thorny jungle -with dottings of calabash at the foot of the Rubeho -mountains, and lumpy outliers falling on the right of -the road. After three hours’ march, the sound of the -horses announced the vicinity of a village, and the -country opening out, displayed a scene of wonderful -fertility, the effect of subterraneous percolations from -the highlands. Nowhere are the tamarind, the sycamore, -and the calabash, seen in such perfection; of -unusual size also are the perfumed myombo and the -mkora, the myongo, the ndabi, the chamvya, with its -edible yellowish-red berries, and a large sweet-smelling -acacia. Amidst these piles of verdure, troops of parroquets, -doves, jays, and bright fly-catchers, find a home, -and frequent flocks and herds, a resting-place beneath -the cool shade. The earth is still sprinkled with “black-jacks,” -the remains of trees which have come to an -untimely end. In the fields near the numerous villages -rise little sheds to shelter the guardians of the crops, -and cattle wander over the commons or unreclaimed -lands. Water, which is here pure and good, lies in pits -from fifteen to twenty feet deep, staged over with tree -trunks, and the people draw it in large shallow buckets, -made of gourds sewn together and strengthened with -sticks. Towards the evening, a cold east-wind brought -up with it a storm of thunder and rain, which was -pronounced by the experts to be the opening of the -rainy monsoon in Usagara.</p> - -<p>The next day led us over an elevated undulation -cut by many jagged watercourses, and still flanked by -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-251">[251]</span> -the outlying masses which fall westward into the waste -of Mgunda M’khali. After an hour’s march, we turned -abruptly eastwards, and crossing a rugged stony fork, -presently found a dwarf basin of red soil which supplied -water. The Wahehe owners of the land have a -chronic horror of the Warori; on sighting our peaceful -caravan, they at once raised the war-cry, and were -quieted only by the certainty that we were even more -frightened than they were. At Kinganguku, the night -was again wild and stormy; in fact, after leaving -Ugogi, we were regularly rained upon till we had -crossed the Mountains.</p> - -<p>On the 9th December, we marched in six hours from -Kinyanguku to Rudi, the principal district of Uhehe. -It was an ascent plunging into the hills, which, however, -on this line are easy to traverse, compared with those of -the northern route; the paths were stony and rugged, -and the earth was here white and glaring, there of a -dull red colour. Water pure and plentiful was found in -pits about fifteen feet deep, which dented the sole of -a picturesque Fiumara. The people assembled to stare -with the stare pertinacious; they demanded large prices -for their small reserves of provisions, but they sold -tobacco at the rate of two or three cakes, each weighing -about one pound and a half, for a shukkah.</p> - -<p>Passing from the settlements of Rudi, on the next -morning we entered a thorn jungle, where the handiwork -of the fierce Warori appeared in many a shell of -smoke-stained village. We then crossed two Fiumaras -exactly similar to those which attract the eye in the -Somali country, broad white sandy beds, with high stiff -earth-banks deeply water-cut, and with huge emerald-foliaged -trees rising from a hard bare red plain. After -a short march of three hours, we pitched under a -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-252">[252]</span> -tamarind, and sent our men abroad to collect provisions. -Tobacco was cheap, as at Rudi, grain and milk, -whether fresh or sour, were expensive, and two shukkahs -were demanded for a lamb or a young goat. The -people of Mporota are notorious pilferers. About noontide -a loud “hooroosh” and the scampering of spearmen -over the country announced a squabble; presently -our people reappeared driving before them a flock -which they had seized in revenge for a daring attempt -at larceny. I directed them to retain one fine specimen—the -<i>lex talionis</i> is ever the first article of the penal -code in the East—and to return the rest. Notwithstanding -these energetic measures, the youth Taufiki -awaking in the night with a shriek like one affected by -nightmare, found that a Mhehe robber had snatched his -cloth, and favoured by the shades had escaped with impunity. -The illness of Said bin Salim detained us for -a day in this den of thieves.</p> - -<p>The 12th December carried us in three hours from -Mporota to Ikuka of Uhehe. The route wound over red -steps amongst low stony hills, the legs of the spider-like -system, and the lay of the heights was in exceeding -confusion. Belted by thorny scrub and forests of wild -fruit trees—some edible, others poisonous—were several -villages, surrounded by fields, especially rich in ground-nuts. -Beyond Ikuka the road entered stony and -rugged land, with a few sparse cultivations almost -choked by thick bushy jungle; the ragged villages contained -many dogs, and a few peculiarly hideous human -beings. Thence it fell into a fine Fiumara, with pure -sweet water in pools, breaking the surface of loose white -sand; upon the banks, red soil, varying from a few -inches to 20 feet in depth, overlay bands and lines of -rounded pebbles, based on beds of granite, schiste, and -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-253">[253]</span> -sandstone. After ascending a hill, we fell into a second -watercourse, whose line was almost choked with wild -and thorny vegetation, and we raised the tents in time -to escape a pitiless pelting, which appeared to spring -from a gap in the southern mountains. The time occupied -in marching from Ikuka to Inena of Usagara -was four hours, and, as usual in these short stages, -there was no halt.</p> - -<p>Two porters were found missing on the morning of the -14th December,—they had gone for provisions, and had -slept in the villages,—moreover, heavy clouds hanging -on the hill-tops threatened rain: a Tirikeza was therefore -ordered. At 11 <span class="smcapall">A.M.</span> we set out over rises, falls, -and broken ground, at the foot of the neighbouring -highlands which enclose a narrow basin, the seat of villages -and extensive cultivation. Small cascades flashing -down the walls that hemmed us in showed the copiousness -of the last night’s fall. After five hours’ heavy -marching, we forded a rapid Fiumara, whose tall banks -of stiff red clay, resting upon tilted-up strata of greenstone, -enclosed a stream calf-deep, and from 10 to 12 -feet broad. At this place, called Ginyindo, provisions -were hardly procurable; consequently the caravan, as -was its wont on such occasions, quarrelled for disport, -and the Baloch, headed by “Gray-beard Musa,” began -to abuse and to beat the Pagazis.</p> - -<p>The morning of the 15th December commenced with -a truly African scene. The men were hungry, and -the air was chill. They prepared, however, to start -quietly betimes. Suddenly a bit of rope was snatched, -a sword flashed in the air, a bow-horn quivered with -nocked arrow, and the whole caravan rushed frantically -with a fearful row to arms. As no one dissuaded -the party from “fighting it out,” they apparently became -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-254">[254]</span> -friends, and took up their loads. My companion -and I rode quietly forward: scarcely, however, had we -emerged from the little basin in which the camp had -been placed, than a terrible hubbub of shouts and yells -announced that the second act had commenced. After -a few minutes, Said bin Salim came forward in trembling -haste to announce that the Jemadar had again -struck a Pagazi, who, running into the Nullah, had -thrown stones with force enough to injure his assailant, -consequently that the Baloch had drawn their sabres and -had commenced a general massacre of porters. Well understanding -this misrepresentation, we advanced about -a mile, and thence sent back two of the sons of Ramji -to declare that we would not be delayed, and that if -not at once followed, we would engage other porters at the -nearest village. This brought on a denouement: presently -the combatants appeared, the Baloch in a high -state of grievance, the Africans declaring that they -had not come to fight but to carry. I persuaded -them both to defer settling the business till the evening, -when both parties well crammed with food listened -complacently to that gross personal abuse, which, in -these lands, represents a reprimand.</p> - -<p>Resuming our journey, we crossed two high and -steep hills, the latter of which suddenly disclosed to the -eye the rich and fertile basin of Maroro. Its principal -feature is a perennial mountain stream, which, descending -the chasm which forms the northern pass, winds sluggishly -through the plain of muddy black soil and patches -of thick rushy grass, and diffused through watercourses -of raised earth, covers the land with tobacco, holcus, -sweet-potato, plantains, and maize. The cereals stood -five feet high, and were already in ear: according to -the people, never less than two, and often three and -four crops are reaped during the year. This hill-girt -district is placed at one month’s march from the coast. -At the southern extremity, there is a second opening -like the northern, and through it the “River of Maroro” -sheds into the Rwaha, distant in direct line two -marches west with southing.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Illoii-5"> -<img src="images/ii_illo272.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">THE BASIN OF MARORO.</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-255">[255]</span></p> - -<p>Maroro, or Malolo, according to dialect, is the “Marorrer -town” of Lt. Hardy, (Transactions of the -Bombay Geographical Society, from Sept. 1841 to May -1844,) who, in 1811-12, was dispatched with Capt. -Smee by the Government of Bombay to collect information -at Kilwa and its dependencies, and the East -African coast generally. Mr. Cooley (Inner Africa Laid -Open, p. 56) writes the word Marora, and explains it to -mean “trade:” the people, however, ignore the derivation. -It is not a town, but a district, containing as usual on this -line a variety of little settlements. The confined basin -is by no means a wholesome locality, the air is warm -and “muggy,” the swamp vegetation is fetid, the mosquitos -venomous, and the population, afflicted with -fevers and severe ulceration, is not less wretched and -degraded than the Wak’hutu. Their habitations are -generally Tembe, but small and poor, and their fields -are dotted with dwarf platforms for the guardians of -the crops. Here a cow costs twelve cloths, a goat three, -whilst two fowls are procurable for a shukkah. Maroro -is the westernmost limit of the touters from the Mrima; -there are seldom less than 150 muskets present, and -the Wasagara have learned to hold strangers in horror.</p> - -<p>In these basins caravans endeavour, and are forced -by the people, to encamp upon the further end after -marching through. At the end of a short stage of -three hours we forded three times the river bed, a muddy -bottom, flanked by stiff rushes, and encamped under a -Mkamba tree, above and to windward of the fetid -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-256">[256]</span> -swamp. The night was hot and rainy, clouds of mosquitos -rose from their homes below, and the cynhyænas -were so numerous that it was necessary to frighten -them away with shots. The labour of laying in provisions -detained us for a day at Maroro.</p> - -<p>On the 17th December we left the little basin -by its southern opening, which gradually winds eastward. -The march was delayed by the distribution of -the load of a porter who had fled to the Warori. After -crossing a fourth rise, the road fell into the cultivated -valley of the Mwega River. This is a rush-girt stream -of pure water, about 20 feet broad, and knee-deep at -the fords in dry weather; its course is S.W. to the -stream of Maroro. Like the Mukondokwa, it spreads -out, except where dammed by the correspondence of -the salient and the re-entering angles of the hill spurs. -The road runs sometimes over this rocky and jungly -ground, horrid with thorn and cactus, fording the -stream, where there is no room for a path, and at other -times it traverses lagoon-like backwaters, garnished -with grass, rush, and stiff shrubs, based upon sun-cracked -or miry beds. After a march of four hours we -encamped in the Mwega Basin, where women brought -down grain in baskets: cattle were seen upon the -higher grounds, but the people refused to sell milk or -meat.</p> - -<p>The next stage was Kiperepeta; it occupied about 2 -hours 30 min. The road was rough, traversing the -bushy jungly spurs on the left bank of the rushy narrow -stream; in many places there were steps and ladders of -detached blocks and boulders. At last passing through -a thick growth, where the smell of jasmine loads the air, -we ascended a steep and rugged incline, whose summit -commanded a fine back view of the Maroro Basin. A -shelving counterslope of earth deeply cracked and cut -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-257">[257]</span> -with watercourses led us to the encamping-ground, a -red patch dotted with tall calabashes, and boasting a -few pools of brackish water. We had now entered the -land of grass-kilts and beehive huts, built for defence -upon the ridges of the hills: whilst cactus, aloe, and -milk-bush showed the diminished fertility of the soil. -About Kiperepeta it was said a gang of nearly 400 -touters awaited with their muskets the arrival of caravans -from the interior.</p> - -<p>On the 19th December, leaving Kiperepeta, we toiled -up a steep incline, cut by the sinuated channels of water-courses, -to a col or pass, the water-parting of this line -in Usagara: before south-westerly, the versant thence-forward -trends to the south-east. Having topped the -summit, we began the descent along the left bank of -a mountain burn, the Rufita, which, forming in the -rainy season a series of rapids and cascades, casts its -waters into the Yovu, and eventually into the Rwaha -River. The drainage of the hill-folds cuts, at every re-entering -angle, a ragged irregular ditch, whose stony -depths are impassable to heavily-laden asses. After a -toilsome march of three hours, we fell into the basin of -Kisanga, which, like others on this line, is an enlarged -punchbowl, almost surrounded by a mass of green hills, -cone rising upon cone, with tufted cappings of trees, and -long lines of small haycock-huts ranged along the -acclivities and ridge-lines. The floor of the basin is -rough and uneven; a rich cultivation extends from the -hill-slopes to the stream which drains the sole, and -fine trees, amongst which are the mparamusi and the -sycomore, relieve the uniformity of the well-hoed fields. -Having passed through huts and villages, where two -up-caravans of Wanyamwezi were halted, displaying and -haggling over the cloths intended as tribute to the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-258">[258]</span> -Sultan Kiringawana, we prudently forded the Yovu, and -placed its bed between ourselves and the enemy. The -Yovu, which bisects the basin of Kisanga from N. to S. -and passes by the S.E. into the Rwaha, was then about -four feet deep; it flowed down a muddy bed laced with -roots, and its banks, whence a putrid smell exhaled, were -thick lines of sedgy grass which sheltered myriads of -mosquitos. Ascending an eminence to the left of the -stream, we obtained lodgings, and at once proceeded to -settle kuhonga with the chief, Kiringawana.</p> - -<div class="container w40em" id="Illoii-14"> -<img src="images/ii_illo276.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">Rufita Pass in Usagara.</p> -</div> - -<p>The father, or, according to others, the grandfather of -the present chief, a Mnyamwezi of the ancient Wakalaganza -tribe, first emigrated from his home in Usagozi, -and, being a mighty elephant-hunter and a powerful -wizard, he persuaded by arts and arms the Wasagara, -who allowed him to settle amongst them, to constitute -him their liege lord. The actual Kiringawana, having -spent his heir-apparent days at Zanzibar, returned to -Kisanga on the death of his sire, and reigned in his -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-259">[259]</span> -stead. His long residence among the Arabs has so far -civilised him that he furnishes his several homes comfortably -enough; he receives his tributary-visitors with -ceremony, affects amenity of manner, clothes his short, -stout, and sooty person in rainbow-coloured raiment, -carries a Persian blade, and is a cunning diplomatist in -the art of choosing cloth.</p> - -<p>On the day of arrival I was visited by Msimbiri, the -heir-apparent—kingly dignity prevented Kiringawana -wading the Yovu,—who gave some information about -the Rwaha river, and promised milk. The 20th of -December was expended in the palaver about “dash.” -After abundant chaffering, the chief accepted from the -Expedition, though passing through his acres on the -return-march, when presents are poor, three expensive -coloured cloths, and eight shukkah of domestics and -Kaniki; wondering the while that the wealthy Muzungu -had neglected to reserve for him something more -worthy of his acceptance. He returned a fat bullock, -which was instantly shot and devoured. In their indolence -the caravan-men again began to quarrel; and -Wulaydi, a son of Ramji, speared a porter, an offence for -which he was ordered, if he failed to give satisfaction for -the assault, to be turned out of camp. A march was -anticipated on the next day, when suddenly, as the moon -rose over the walls of the basin, a fine bonfire on the -neighbouring hill and a terrible outcry announced an -accident in the village occupied by the sons of Ramji. -Muinyi Buyuni had left in charge of the hearth the -object of his affections, a fine strapping slave-girl, whom -for certain reasons he expected to sell for a premium at -Zanzibar, and she had made it over to some friend, who -probably had fallen asleep. The hut was soon in flames,—in -these lands fires are never extinguished,—and the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-260">[260]</span> -conflagration had extended to the nearer hovels, consuming -the cloth, grain, and furniture of the inmates. -Fortunately, the humans and the cattle escaped; but a -delay was inevitable. The elder who owned the chief -hut demanded only eighty-eight cloths, one slave, -thirteen Fundo of beads, and other minor articles:—a -lesser sum would have purchased the whole household. -His cupidity was restrained by Kiringawana, who -named as indemnity thirty cloths, here worth thirty -dollars, which I gave with extreme unwillingness, promising -the sons of Ramji, who appeared rather to enjoy -the excitement, that they should pay for their carelessness -at Zanzibar.</p> - -<p>During the second day’s halt, I attempted to obtain -from Kiringawana a permission to depart from the -beaten track. The noble descent of this chief gives him -power over the guides of the Wanyamwezi caravans. -In consequence of an agreement with the Diwans of the -Mrima, he has lately closed the direct route to Kilwa, -formerly regularly traversed, and he commands a little -army of touters. He returned a gracious reply, which -in East Africa, however, means no gracious intentions.</p> - -<p>Resuming our march on the 22nd of December, we -descended from the eminence into the basin of the -Yovu River, and fought our way through a broad -“Wady,” declining from east to west, with thick lines -of tree and bush down the centre, and everywhere else -an expanse of dark and unbroken green, like a plate of -spinach. Passing along the southern bank amongst -wild Annonas and fine Palmyras, over a good path -where there was little mud, we presently ascended -rising ground through an open forest, of the rainbow -hues before described, where sweet air and soft filmy -shade formed, whilst the sun was low and the breath -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-261">[261]</span> -of the morning was pure and good, most enjoyable -travelling. After about five hours we descended into -the basin of the Ruhembe rivulet, which seems to be -the “Rohambi people” of Mr. Cooley’s Itinerary. (Geography -of N’yassi, p. 22.) The inhabitants are Wasagara; -they supply travellers with manioc, grain, and -bitter egg-plants, of a scarlet colour resembling tomatos. -Cultivation flourishes upon the hill-sides and in the -swampy grounds about the sole of the basin, which is -bisected by a muddy and apparently stagnant stream -ten feet broad. We pitched tents in the open central -space of a village, and met a caravan of Wasawahili -from Zanzibar, who reported to Said bin Salim the gratifying -intelligence that, in consequence of a rumour of -his decease, his worthy brother, Ali bin Salim, had -somewhat prematurely laid violent hands upon his goods -and chattels.</p> - -<p>The porters would have halted on the next day, but -the excited Said exerted himself manfully; at 2 <span class="smcapall">P.M.</span> -we were once more on the road. Descending from the -village-eminence, we crossed in a blazing sun the fetid -Ruhembe; and, after finding with some difficulty the -jungly path, we struck into a pleasant forest, like that -traversed on the last march. It was cut by water-courses -draining south, and at these places it was necessary -to dismount. At 6 <span class="smcapall">P.M.</span> appeared a clearing, -with sundry villages and clumps of the Mgude tree, -whose tufty summits of the brightest green, gilt by the -last rays of the sun, formed a lovely picture. The -porters would have rested at this spot, but they were -forced forwards by the sons of Ramji. Presently we -emerged upon the southern extremity of the Makata -Plain, a hideous low level of black vegetable earth, -peaty in appearance, and, bearing long puddles of dark -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-262">[262]</span> -scummy and stagnant rain-water, mere horse-ponds, -with the additional qualities of miasma and mosquitos. -The sons of Ramji had determined to reach the -Makata Nullah, still distant about two hours. I called -a halt in favour of the fatigued Pagazi, who heard it -with pleasure, and sent to recall Wulaydi, Shehe, and -Nasibu, who were acting bell-wethers. The worthies -returned after a time, and revenged themselves by parading, -with many grimaces, up and down the camp.</p> - -<p>On the morning of the 24th of December, we resumed -the transit of the Makata Plain, and crossed -the tail of its nullah. It was here bone-dry; consequently, -had we made it last night, the thirsty caravan -would have suffered severely. Ensued a long slope -garnished with the normal thin forest; in two places -the plots of ashes, which denote the deaths of wizard -and witch, apprised us that we were fast approaching -benighted K’hutu. A skeleton caravan of touters, composed -of six muskets and two flags, met us on the way. -Presently we descended into the basin of Kikoboga, -which was occupied in force by gentry of the same description. -After wading four times the black, muddy, and -rushy nullah, which bisects the lake, we crossed a -lateral band of rough high ground, whence a further -counter-slope bent down to a Khambi in a diminutive -hollow, called Mwimbi. It was the ideal of a bad -encamping ground. The kraal stood on the bank of -a dark, miry water at the head of a narrow gap, -where heat was concentrated by the funnel-shaped hill-sides, -and where the dark ground, strewed with rotting -grass and leaves, harboured hosts of cock-roaches, beetles, -and mosquitos. The supplies, a little grain, poor sugar-cane, -good wild vegetables, at times plantains, were -distant, and the water was vile. Throughout this -country, however, the Wasagara cultivators, fearing -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-263">[263]</span> -plunder should a caravan encamp near their crops, -muster in force; the traveller, therefore, must not -unpack except at the kraals on either edge of the cultivation.</p> - -<p>The dawn of Christmas Day, 1858, saw us toiling -along the Kikoboga River, which we forded four times. -We then crossed two deep affluents, whose banks were -thick with fruitless plantains. The road presently -turned up a rough rise, from whose crest began the -descent of the Mabruki Pass. This col may be divided into -two steps: the first winds along a sharp ridge-line, a chain -of well-forested hills, whose heights, bordered on both -sides by precipitous slopes of earth overgrown with -thorns and thick bamboo-clumps, command an extensive -view of spur and subrange, of dhun and champaign, -sprinkled with villages and dwarf cones, and watered by -streamlets that glisten like lines of quicksilver in the -blue-brown of the hazy distant landscape. Ensues, after -a succession of deep and rugged watercourses, with -difficult slopes, the second step; a short but sharp steep -of red earth, corded with the tree-roots that have been -bared by the heavy rains. Beyond this the path, -spanning rough ground at the hill-base, debouches upon -the course of a streamlet flowing southwards from the -last heights of Usagara to the plains of Uziraha in -K’hutu.</p> - -<p>The bullock reserved for the occasion having been -lost in Uhehe, I had ordered the purchase of half a -dozen goats wherewith to celebrate the day; the porters, -however, were too lazy to collect them. My companion -and I made good cheer upon a fat capon, which acted as -roast-beef, and a mess of ground-nuts sweetened with -sugar-cane, which did duty as plum-pudding. The -contrast of what was with what might be now, however, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-264">[264]</span> -suggested only pleasurable sensations; long odds were -in favour of our seeing the Christmas Day of 1859, -compared with the chances of things at Msene on the -Christmas Day of 1857.</p> - -<p>From Uziraha sixteen hours distributed into fourteen -marches conducted us from Uziraha, at the foot of the -Usagara mountains, to Central Zungomero. The districts -traversed were Eastern Mbwiga, Marundwe, and Kirengwe. -The road again realises the European idea of Africa -in its most hideous and grotesque aspect. Animals are -scarce amidst the portentous growth of herbage, not a -head of black cattle is seen, flocks and poultry are rare, -and even the beasts of the field seem to flee the land. -The people admitted us into their villages, whose -wretched straw-hovels, contrasting with the luxuriant -jungle which hems them in, look like birds’ nests torn -from the trees: all the best settlements, however, were -occupied by parties of touters. At the sight of our -passing caravan the goatherd hurried off his charge, -the peasant prepared to rush into the grass, the women -and children slunk and hid within the hut, and no one -ever left his home without a bow and a sheath of -arrows, whose pitchy-coloured bark-necks denoted a -fresh layer of poison.</p> - -<p>We entered Zungomero on the 29th of December, -after sighting on the left the cone at whose base rises the -Maji ya W’heta, or Fontaine qui bouille. The village -on the left bank of the Mgeta, which we had occupied -about eighteen months before, had long been level with -the ground; we were therefore conducted with due -ceremony into another settlement on the right of the -stream. An army of black musketeers, in scanty but -various and gaudy attire, came out to meet us, and -with the usual shots and shouts conducted us to the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-265">[265]</span> -headman’s house, which had already been turned into -a kind of barrack by these irregulars. They then stared -as usual for half-a-dozen consecutive hours, which done -they retired to rest.</p> - -<p>After a day’s repose, sending for the Kirangozi, and -personally offering a liberal reward, I opened to him -the subject then nearest my heart, namely, a march -upon Kilwa. This proceeding probably irritated the -too susceptible Said bin Salim, and caused him, if not -actually to interfere, at any rate to withhold all aid -towards furthering the project. Twanigana, after a -palaver with his people, returned with a reply that -he himself was willing, but that his men would not -leave the direct track. Their reasons were various. -Some had become brothers with the sons of Ramji, and -expected employment from their “father.” Others -declared that it would be necessary to march a few miles -back, which was contrary to their custom, and said that -they ought to have been warned of the intention before -passing the Makutaniro, or junction of the two roads. -But none expressed any fear, as has since been asserted, -of being sold off into slavery at Kilwa. Such a declaration -would have been ridiculous. Of the many -Wanyamwezi caravans that have visited Kilwa none -has ever yet been seized and sold; the coast-people are -too well acquainted with their own interests to secure -for themselves a permanent bad name. Seeing, however, -that energetic measures were necessary to open the -road, I allowed them two days for consideration, and -warned them that after that time Posho or rations should -be withdrawn.</p> - -<p>On the next day I was privately informed by the -Mnfumo or parson of the caravan, that his comrades -intended to make a feint of desertion, and then to return, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-266">[266]</span> -if they found us resolved not to follow them. The -reverend gentleman’s sister-in-law, who had accompanied -us from Unyamwezi as cook and concubine to -Seedy Bombay, persuaded our managing man that there -was no danger of the porters traversing Uzaramo, -without pay, escort, or provisions. On the 1st January, -1859, however, the gang rose to depart. I sent for the -Kirangozi, who declared that though loth to leave us -he must head his men: in return for which semi-fidelity -I made him name his own reward; he asked two handsome -cloths, a Gorah or piece of domestics, and one -Fundo of coral beads—it was double his pay, but I -willingly gave it, and directed Said bin Salim to write -an order to that effect upon Mr. Rush Ramji, or any -other Hindu who might happen to be at Kaole. But I -rejected the suggestion of my companion, who proposed -that half the sum agreed upon in Unyanyembe as payment -to the porters—nine cloths each—should be given -to them. In the first place, this donation would have -been equivalent to a final dismissal. Secondly, the Arabs -at Kazeh had warned me that it was not their custom -to pay in part those who will not complete the journey -to the coast; and I could see no reason for departing -from a commercial precedent, evidently necessary to -curb the Africans’ alacrity in desertion.</p> - -<p>On the day following the departure of the gang I -set out to visit the Jetting Spring, and found when -returning to the village shortly before noon that my companion -had sent a man to recal the “Pagazi,” who were -said to be encamped close to the river, and to propose to -them a march upon Mbuamaji. The messenger returned -and reported that the Wanyamwezi had already crossed -the river. Unwilling that the wretches should lose -by their headstrongness, I at once ordered Said bin -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-267">[267]</span> -Salim to mount ass and to bring back the porters by -offers which they would have accepted. Some time -afterwards, when I fancied that he was probably haranguing -the men, he came to me to say that he had not -eaten and the sun was hot. With the view of shaming -him I directed Kidogo to do the work, but as he also -made excuses, Khamisi and Shehe, two sons of Ramji, -were despatched with cloths to buy rations for the -Pagazi, and, <i>coûte que coûte</i>, to bring them back. They -set out on the 2nd January, and returned on the 7th -January, never having, according to their own account, -seen the fugitives.</p> - -<p>This was a regrettable occurrence: it gave a handle -to private malice under the specious semblance of -public duty. But such events are common on the -slave-path in Eastern Africa; of the seven gangs of -porters engaged on this journey only one, an unusually -small proportion, left me without being fully satisfied, -and that one deserved to be disappointed.</p> - -<p>We were detained at K’hutu till the 20th January. -The airiest of schemes were ventilated by Said bin Salim -and my companion. Three of the Baloch eye-sores, the -“Graybeard Mohammed,” the mischief-maker Khudabakhsh, -and the mulatto Jelai, were sent to the coast -with letters, reports, and officials for Zanzibar and -home. The projectors then attempted to engage -Wak’hutu porters, but after a long palaver, P’hazi -Madenge, the principal chief of Uziraha, who at first -undertook to transport us in person to Dut’humi, declared -that he could not assist us. It was then proposed -to trust for porterage to the Wazaramo; that -project also necessarily fell to the ground. Two feasible -plans remained: either to write to the coast for a new -gang, or to await the transit of some down-caravan. -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-268">[268]</span> -As the former would have caused an inevitable delay I -preferred the latter, justly thinking that during this, -the travelling-season, we should not long be detained.</p> - -<p>On the 11th January, 1859, a large party of Wanyanwezi, -journeying from the interior to the coast, -bivouacked in the village. I easily persuaded Muhembe, -the Mtongi or leader, to make over to me the services -of nine of his men, and lest the African mind might -conceive that in dismissing the last gang cloth or beads -had been an object, I issued to these new porters seventy-two -cloths, as much as if they had carried packs from -Unyanwezi to the coast. On the 14th January, 1859, -we received Mr. Apothecary Frost’s letters, drugs, and -medical comforts, for which we had written to him in -July 1857. The next day saw us fording the warm -muddy waters of the Mgeta, which was then 100 feet -broad: usually knee-deep, it rises after a few showers -to the breast, and during the heavy rains which had -lately fallen it was impassable. We found a little -village on the left bank, and there we sat down patiently -to await, despite the trouble inflicted by a host of diminutive -ants, who knew no rest by day or night, the arrival -of another caravan to complete our gang. The medical -comforts so tardily received from Zanzibar fortified us, -however, to some extent against enemies and inconveniences; -we had æther-sherbet and æther-lemonade, -formed by combining a wine-glass of the spirit with a -<i>quant. suff.</i> of citric acid; and when we wanted a -change the villagers supplied an abundance of Pombe -or small beer.</p> - -<p>On the 17th Jan. a numerous down-caravan entered -the settlement which we occupied, and it proved after -inquiry to be one of which I had heard often and much. -The chiefs, Sulayman bin Rashid el Riami, a coast-Arab, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-269">[269]</span> -accompanied by a Msawahili, Mohammed bin Gharib, -and others, called upon me without delay, and from -them I obtained a detailed account of their interesting -travel.</p> - -<p>The merchants had left the coast for Ubena in June, -1857, and their up-march had lasted six months. They -set out with a total of 600 free men and slaves, armed -with 150 guns, hired on the seaboard for eight to ten -dollars per head, half being advanced: they could not -persuade the Wanyamwezi to traverse these regions. -The caravan followed the Mbuamaji trunk-road westward -as far as Maroro in Usagara, thence deflecting -southwards it crossed the Rwaha River, which at the -ford was knee-deep. The party travelled through the -Wahehe and the Wafaji, south of and far from the -stream, to avoid the Warori, who hold both banks. The -sultan of these freebooters, being at war with the Wabena, -would not have permitted merchants to pass on -to his enemies, and even in time of peace he fines them, -it is said, one half of their property for safe-conduct. On -the right hand of the caravan, or to the south from -Uhehe to Ubena, was a continuous chain of highlands, -pouring affluents across the road into the Rwaha River, -and water was procurable only in the beds of these -nullahs and fiumaras. If this chain be of any considerable -length, it may represent the water-parting between -the Tanganyika and the Nyassa Lakes, and thus divide -by another and a southerly lateral band the great Depression -of Central Africa. The land was dry and -barren; in fact, Ugogo without its calabashes. Scarcely -a blade of grass appeared upon the whity-brown soil, -and the travellers marvelled how the numerous herds -obtained their sustenance. The masika or rainy monsoon -began synchronously with that of Unyamwezi, but -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-270">[270]</span> -it lasted little more than half its period in the north. -In the sparse cultivation, surrounded by dense bush, -they were rarely able to ration oftener than once a -week. They were hospitably received by Kimanu, the -Jyari or Sultan of Ubena. His people, though fierce -and savage, appeared pleased by the sight of strangers. -The Wabena wore a profusion of beads, and resembled -in dress, diet, and lodging the Warori; they were brave -to recklessness, and strictly monarchical, swearing by -their chief. The Warori, however, were the cleaner -race; they washed and bathed, whilst the Wabena used -the same fluid to purify teeth, face, and hands.</p> - -<p>At Ubena the caravan made considerable profits in -slaves and ivory. The former, mostly captured or kidnapped, -were sold for four to six fundo of beads, and, -merchants being rare, a large stock was found on hand. -About 800 were purchased, as each Pagazi or porter -could afford one at least. On the return-march, however, -half of the property deserted. The ivory, which -rather resembled the valuable article procured at Karagwah -than the poor produce of Unyanyembe, sold at -35 to 70 fundo of yellow and other coloured beads per -frasilah of 35 lbs. Cloth was generally refused, and -the kitindi or wire armlets were useful only in purchasing -provisions.</p> - -<p>On its return the caravan, following for eighteen stages -the right bank of the Rwaha River, met with an unexpected -misfortune. They were nighting in a broad -fiumara called Bonye, a tributary from the southern -highlands to the main artery, when suddenly a roar -and rush of waters fast approaching and the cries -of men struck them with consternation. In the confusion -which ensued 150 souls, for the most part slaves, -and probably ironed or corded together, were carried -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-271">[271]</span> -away by the torrent, and the porters lost a great part -of the ivory. A more dangerous place for encampment -can scarcely be imagined, yet the East African everywhere -prefers it because it is warm at night, and the -surface is soft. In the neighbourhood of the Rwaha -they entered the capital district of Mui’ Gumbi, the -chief, after a rude reception on the frontier, where the -people, mistaking them for a plundering party of Wabena, -gathered in arms to the number of 4000. When -the error was perceived, the Warori warmly welcomed -the traders, calling them brothers, and led them to the -quarters of their Sultan. Mui’ Gumbi was apparently -in his 70th year, a man of venerable look, tall, burly, -and light-coloured, with large ears, and a hooked nose -like a “moghrebi.” His sons, about thirty in number, -all resembled him, their comeliness contrasting strongly -with the common clansmen, who are considered by their -chiefs as slaves. A tradition derives the origin of this -royal race from Madagascar or one of its adjoining -islets. Mui’ Gumbi wore a profusion of beads, many -of them antiquated in form and colour, and now unknown -in the market of Zanzibar: above his left elbow -he had a lumpy bracelet of ivory, a decoration appropriated -to chieftains. The Warori expressed their -surprise that the country had not been lately visited by -caravans, and, to encourage others, the Sultan offered -large gangs of porters without pay to his visitors. -These men never desert; such disobedience would cost -them their lives. From the settlement of Mui’ Gumbi -to the coast the caravan travelled without accident, but -under great hardships, living on roots and grasses for -want of means to buy provisions.</p> - -<p>The same caravan-traders showed me divers specimens -of the Warori, and gave me the following description, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-272">[272]</span> -which tallied with the details supplied by Snay bin -Amin and the Arabs of Kazeh.</p> - -<p>The Warori extend from the western frontier of the -Wahehe, about forty marches along principally the -northern bank of the Rwaha River, to the meridian -of Eastern Unyanyembe. They are a semi-pastoral -tribe, continually at war with their neighbours. They -never sell their own people, but attack the Wabena, the -Wakimbu, the Wahehe, the Wakonongo, and the races -about Unyangwira, and drive their captives to the sea, -or dispose of them to the slavers in Usagara. The -price is of course cheap; a male adult is worth from -two to six shukkah merkani. Some years ago a large -plundering party, under their chief Mbangera, attacked -Sultan Kalala of the Wasukuma; they were, however, -defeated, with the loss of their leader, by Kafrira of -Kivira, the son-in-law of Kalala. They also ravaged -Unyanyembe, and compelled the people to take refuge -on the summit of a natural rock-fortress between Kazeh -and Yombo, and they have more than once menaced the -dominions of Fundikira. Those mighty boasters the -Wagogo hold the Warori in awe; as the Arabs say, they -shrink small as a cubit before foes fiercer than themselves. -The Warori have wasted the lands of Uhehe and Unyangwira, -and have dispersed the Wakimbu and the Wamia -tribes. They have closed the main-road from the seaboard -by exorbitant blackmail and charges for water, and about -five years ago they murdered two coast Arab traders -from Mbuamaji. Since their late defeat by the Watuta, -they have been comparatively quiet. When the E. -African Expedition, however, entered the country they -had just distinguished themselves by driving the herds -from Ugogi, and thus prevented any entrance into their -country from that district. Like the pastoral races -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-273">[273]</span> -generally of this portion of the peninsula, the object of -their raids is cattle: when a herd falls into their hands, -they fly at the beasts like hyænas, pierce them with -their assegais, hack off huge slices, and devour the meat -raw.</p> - -<p>The Warori are small and shrivelled black savages. -Their diminutive size is doubtless the effect of scanty -food, continued through many generations: the Sultans, -however, are a peculiarly fine large race of men. The -slave-specimens observed had no distinguishing mark -on the teeth; in all cases, however, two short lines were -tattooed across the hollow of the temples. The male -dress is a cloak of strung beads, weighing ten or twelve -pounds, and covering the shoulders like a European -cape. Some wind a large girdle of the same material -round the waist. The women wear a bead-kilt extending -to the knees, or, if unable to afford it, a wrapper of skin. -The favourite weapon is a light, thin, and pliable assegai; -they carry a sheath of about a dozen, and throw -them with great force and accuracy. The bow is unknown. -They usually press to close quarters, each man -armed with a long heavy spear. Iron is procured in considerable -quantities both in Ubena and Urori. The habitations -are said to be large Tembe, capable of containing -400 to 500 souls. The principal articles of diet are -milk, meat, and especially fattened dog’s flesh—of which -the chiefs are inordinately fond,—maize, holcus, and -millet. Rice is not grown in these arid districts. They -manage their intoxication by means of pombe made of -grain and the bhang, which is smoked in gourd-pipes; -they also mix the cannabis with their vegetable food. -The Warori are celebrated for power of abstinence; -they will march, it is said, six days without eating, and -they require to drink but once in the twenty-four -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-274">[274]</span> -hours. In one point they resemble the Bedouins of -Arabia: the chief will entertain his guests hospitably -as long as they remain in his village, but he will -plunder them the moment they leave it.</p> - -<p>On the 19th January the expected down-caravan -of Wanyamwezi arrived, and I found no difficulty in -completing our carriage—a fair proof, be it remarked, -that I had not lost the confidence of the people. The -Mtongi, however, was, or perhaps pretended to be, ill; -we were, therefore, delayed for another day in a place -which had no charms for us.</p> - -<p>The 21st January enabled us to bid adieu to Zungomero -and merrily to take the footpath way. We -made Konduchi on the 3rd February, after twelve marches, -which were accomplished in fifteen days. There was -little of interest or adventure in this return-line, of -which the nine first stations had already been visited -and described. As the Yegea mud, near Dut’humi, -was throat-deep, we crossed it lower down: it was still -a weary trudge of several miles through thick slabby -mire, which admitted a man to his knees. In places, -after toiling under a sickly sun, we crept under the -tunnels of thick jungle-growth veiling the Mgazi and -other streams; the dank and fetid cold caused a deadly -sensation of faintness, which was only relieved by a -glass of æther-sherbet, a pipe or two of the strongest -tobacco, and half an hour’s repose. By degrees -it was found necessary to abandon the greater part -of the remaining outfit and the luggage: the Wanyamwezi, -as they neared their destination, became -even less manageable than before, and the sons of -Ramji now seemed to consider their toils at an end. -On the 25th January we forded the cold, strong, yellow -stream of the Mgeta, whose sandy bed had engulfed my -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-275">[275]</span> -elephant-gun, and we entered with steady hearts the -formerly dreaded Uzaramo. The 27th January saw us -pass safely by the village where M. Maizan came -to an untimely end. On that day Ramazan and -Salman, children of Said bin Salim, returned from -Zanzibar Island, bringing letters, clothing, and provisions -for their master, who, by way of small revenge, -had despatched them secretly from Zungomero. -On the 28th January we reached the Makutaniro or -anastomosis of the Kaole and Mbuamaji roads, where on -our ingress the Wazaramo had barred passage in force. -No one now ventured to dispute the way with well-armed -paupers. That evening, however, the Mtongi -indulged his men with “maneno,” a harangue. Reports -about fatal skirmishes between the Wazaramo and -a caravan of Wanyamwezi that had preceded us had -flown about the camp; consequently the Mtongi recommended -prudence. “There would be danger to-morrow—a -place of ambuscade—the porters must not rise -and be off too early nor too late—they must not hasten -on, nor lag behind—they had with them Wazungu, and -in case of accidents they would lose their name!” The -last sentence was frequently repeated with ever increasing -emphasis, and each period of the discourse was -marked by a general murmur, denoting attention.</p> - -<p>As I have said, there was no danger. Yet on the -next day a report arose that we were to be attacked in -a dense thicket—where no archer, be it observed, could -bend his bow—a little beyond the junction of the Mbuamaji -road with that of Konduchi, our destination. -In the afternoon Said bin Salim, with important countenance, -entered my tent and disclosed to me the doleful -tidings. The road was cut off. He knew it. A great -friend of his—a slave—had told him so. He remembered -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-276">[276]</span> -warning me that such was the case five days ago. -I must either delay till an escort could be summoned -from the coast, or—I must fee a chief to precede me -and to reason with the enemy. It was in vain to storm, -I feared that real obstacles might be placed by the timid -and wily little man in our way, and I consented most -unwillingly to pay two coloured cloths, and one ditto of -blue-cotton, as hire to guard that appeared in the -shape of four clothless varlets, that left us after the first -quarter of an hour. The Baloch, headed by the Jemadar, -knowing that all was safe, distinguished themselves on -that night, for the first time in eighteen months, by -uttering the shouts which prove that the Oriental soldier -is doing “Zam,” <i>i.e.</i> is on the <i>qui vive</i>. When requested -not to make so much noise they grumbled that -it was for our sake, not for theirs.</p> - -<p>On the 30th January our natives of Zanzibar -screamed with delight at the sight of the mango-tree, -and pointed out to one another, as they appeared in -succession, the old familiar fruits, jacks and pine-apples, -limes and cocoes. On the 2nd February we greeted, -with doffed caps and with three times three and one -more, as Britons will do on such occasions, the kindly -smiling face of our father Neptune as he lay basking in -the sunbeams between earth and air. Finally, the 3rd -February 1859 saw us winding through the poles decorated -with skulls—they now grin in the Royal College of -Surgeons, London—a negro Temple-bar which pointed -out the way into the little maritime village of Konduchi.</p> - -<p>Our entrance was attended with the usual ceremony, -now familiar to the reader: the warmen danced, shot, -and shouted, a rabble of adults, youths, and boys crowded -upon us, the fair sex lulliloo’d with vigour, and a -general procession conducted their strangers to the hut -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-277">[277]</span> -swept, cleaned, and garnished for us by old Premji, the -principal Banyan of the head-quarter village, and there -stared and laughed till they could stare and laugh no -more.</p> - -<p>On the evening of the same day an opportunity -offered of transferring the Jemadar, the Baloch, and my -<i>bête noire</i>, Kidogo, to their homes in Zanzibar Island, -which lies within sight of Konduchi: as may be imagined, -I readily availed myself of it. After begging powder -and <i>et cæteras</i> to the last, the monocular insisted upon -kissing my hand, and departed weeping bitterly with the -agony of parting. By the same boat I sent a few lines -to H. M. consul, Zanzibar, enclosing a list of necessaries, -and requesting that a Battela, or coasting-craft, -might be hired, provisioned, and despatched without -delay, as I purposed to explore the Delta and the unknown -course of the Rufiji River. In due time Said bin -Salim and his “children,” including the fair Halimah -and Zawada—the latter was liberally rewarded by me for -services rendered to my companion—and shortly afterwards -the sons of Ramji, or rather the few who had -not deserted or lagged behind, were returned to their -master, and were, I doubt not, received with all the -kindness which their bad conduct deserved.</p> - -<p>We were detained at Konduchi for six days between -the 3rd and 10th February. There is nothing interesting -in this little African village port: instead of -describing it, I will enter into a few details concerning -African matters of more general importance.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-278">[278]</span></p> - -<div class="container w40em" id="Illoii-15"> -<img src="images/ii_illo296.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">The Ivory Porter, the Cloth Porter, and Woman, in Usagara.</p> -</div> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapno">CHAP. XVIII.</span><br /> -<span class="chapname">VILLAGE LIFE IN EAST AFRICA.</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p class="noindent">The assertion may startle the reader’s preconceived -opinions concerning the savage state of Central Africa -and the wretched condition of the slave races, negroid -and negro; but is not less true that the African is in -these regions superior in comforts, better dressed, fed, -and lodged, and less worked than the unhappy Ryot of -British India. His condition, where the slave trade -is slack, may, indeed, be compared advantageously with -that of the peasantry in some of the richest of European -countries.</p> - -<div class="container" id="Illoii-6"> -<img src="images/ii_illo297.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">THE BASIN OF KISANGA.</p> -</div> - -<p>The African rises with the dawn from his couch of -cow’s hide. The hut is cool and comfortable during -the day, but the barred door impeding ventilation at -night causes it to be close and disagreeable. The hour -before sunrise being the coldest time, he usually kindles -a fire, and addresses himself to his constant companion, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-279">[279]</span> -the pipe. When the sun becomes sufficiently powerful, -he removes the reed-screen from the entrance, and -issues forth to bask in the morning-beams. The villages -are populous, and the houses touching one another -enable the occupants, when squatting outside and fronting -the central square, to chat and chatter without -moving. About 7 <span class="smcapall">A.M.</span>, when the dew has partially disappeared -from the grass, the elder boys drive the -flocks and herds to pasture with loud shouts and sounding -applications of the quarter-staff. They return only -when the sun is sinking behind the western horizon. -At 8 <span class="smcapall">P.M.</span> those who have provisions at home enter the -hut to refection with ugali or holcus-porridge; those -who have not, join a friend. Pombe, when procurable, -is drunk from the earliest dawn.</p> - -<p>After breaking his fast the African repairs, pipe in -hand, to the Iwánzá—the village “public,” previously -described. Here, in the society of his own sex, he will -spend the greater part of the day, talking and laughing, -smoking, or torpid with sleep. Occasionally he sits -down to play. As with barbarians generally, gambling -in him is a passion. The normal game is our “heads -and tails,” its implement a flat stone, a rough circle of -tin, or the bottom of a broken pot. The more civilised -have learned the “bao” of the coast, a kind of “tables,” -with counters and cups hollowed in a solid plank. -Many of the Wanyamwezi have been compelled by this -indulgence to sell themselves into slavery: after playing -through their property, they even stake their aged -mothers against the equivalent of an old lady in these -lands,—a cow or a pair of goats. As may be imagined, -squabbles are perpetual; they are almost always, however, -settled amongst fellow-villagers with bloodless -weapons. Others, instead of gambling, seek some employment -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-280">[280]</span> -which, working the hands and leaving the -rest of the body and the mind at ease, is ever a favourite -with the Asiatic and the African; they whittle wood, -pierce and wire their pipe-sticks—an art in which all -are adepts—shave one another’s heads, pluck out their -beards, eyebrows, and eyelashes, and prepare and polish -their weapons.</p> - -<p>At about 1 <span class="smcapall">P.M.</span> the African, unless otherwise employed, -returns to his hut to eat the most substantial -and the last meal of the day, which has been cooked by -his women. Eminently gregarious, however, he often -prefers the Iwánzá as a dining-room, where his male -children, relatives, and friends meet during the most -important hour of the twenty-four. With the savage -and the barbarian food is the all-in-all of life:—food is -his thought by day,—food is his dream by night. The -civilised European, who never knows hunger or thirst -without the instant means of gratifying every whim of -appetite, can hardly conceive the extent to which his -wild brother’s soul is swayed by stomach; he can -scarcely comprehend the state of mental absorption in -which the ravenous human animal broods over the carcase -of an old goat, the delight which he takes in -superintending every part of the cooking process, and -the jealous eye with which he regards all who live better -than himself.</p> - -<p>The principal articles of diet are fish and flesh, grain -and vegetables; the luxuries are milk and butter, honey, -and a few fruits, as bananas and Guinea-palm dates; -and the inebrients are pombe or millet-beer, toddy, and -mawa or plantain-wine.</p> - -<p>Fish is found in the lakes and in the many rivers of -this well-watered land; it is despised by those who can -afford flesh, but it is a “godsend” to travellers, to -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-281">[281]</span> -slaves, and to the poor. Meat is the diet most prized; -it is, however, a luxury beyond the reach of peasantry, -except when they can pick up the orts of the chiefs. -The Arabs assert that in these latitudes vegetables cause -heartburn and acidity, and that animal food is the most -digestible. The Africans seem to have made the same -discovery: a man who can afford it almost confines -himself to flesh, and he considers fat the essential element -of good living. The crave for meat is satisfied by eating -almost every description of living thing, clean or -unclean; as a rule, however, the East African prefers -beef, which strangers find flatulent and heating. Like -most people, they reject game when they can command -the flesh of tame beasts. Next to the bullock the goat -is preferred in the interior; as indeed it is by the Arabs -of Zanzibar Island; whereas those of Oman and of -Western Arabia abandon it to the Bedouins. In this part -of Africa the cheapest and vilest meat is mutton, and -its appearance—pale, soft, and braxy—justifies the -prejudice against it. Of late years it has become the -fashion to eat poultry and pigeons; eggs, however, are -still avoided. In the absence of history and tradition, -it is difficult to decide whether this aversion to eggs -arises from an imported or an indigenous prejudice. -The mundane egg of Hindoo mythology probably typified -the physiological dogma “omne vivum ex ovo,” and the -mystic disciples would avoid it as representing the principle -of life. In remote ages the prejudice may have extended -to Africa, although the idea which gave birth to -it was not familiar to the African mind. Of wild flesh, the -favourite is that of the zebra; it is smoked or jerked, -despite which it retains a most savoury flavour. Of the -antelopes a few are deliciously tender and succulent; -the greater part are black, coarse, and indigestible. -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-282">[282]</span> -One of the inducements for an African to travel is to -afford himself more meat than at home. His fondness -for the article conquers at times even his habitual improvidence. -He preserves it by placing large lumps -upon a little platform of green reeds, erected upon -uprights about eighteen inches high, and by smoking it -with a slow fire. Thus prepared, and with the addition -of a little salt, the provision will last for several days, -and the porters will not object to increase their loads by -three or four pounds of the article, disposed upon a -long stick like gigantic kababs. They also jerk their -stores by exposing the meat upon a rope, or spread upon -a flat stone, for two or three days in the sun; it loses -a considerable portion of nutriment, but it packs into -a conveniently small compass. This jerked meat, when -dried, broken into small pieces, and stored in gourds or -in pots full of clarified and melted butter, forms the -celebrated travelling provision in the East called kavurmeh: -it is eaten as a relish with rice and other boiled -grains. When meat is not attainable and good water -is scarce, the African severs one of the jugulars of a -bullock and fastens upon it like a leech. This custom -is common in Karagwah and the other northern kingdoms, -and some tribes, like the Wanyika, near Mombasah, -churn the blood with milk.</p> - -<p>The daily food of the poor is grain, generally holcus, -maize, or bajri (panicum); wheat is confined to the -Arabs, and rice grows locally, as in the Indian peninsula. -The inner Africans, like the semi-civilised Arabs -of Zanzibar, the Wasawahili, and the Wamrima, ignore -the simple art of leavening bread by acidulated whey, -sour bean-paste, and similar contrivances universally -practised in Oman. Even the rude Indian chapati or -scone is too artificial for them, and they have not -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-283">[283]</span> -learned to toast grain. Upon journeys the African -boils his holcus unhusked in an earthen basin, drinks -the water, and devours the grain, which in this state is -called masango; at home he is more particular. The -holcus is either rubbed upon a stone—the mill being -wholly unknown—or pounded with a little water in a -huge wooden mortar; when reduced to a coarse powder, -it is thrown into an earthen pot containing boiling water -sufficient to be absorbed by the flour; a little salt, when -procurable, is added; and after a few stirrings with a -ladle, or rather with a broad and flat-ended stick, till -thoroughly saturated, the thick mass is transferred into -a porous basket, which allows the extra moisture to -leak out. Such is the ugali, or porridge, the staff of -life in East Africa.</p> - -<p>During the rains vegetables are common in the -more fertile parts of East Africa; they are within -reach of the poorest cultivator. Some varieties, especially -the sweet potato and the mushroom, are sliced -and sun-dried to preserve them through the year. -During the barren summer they are boiled into a kind -of broth.</p> - -<p>Milk is held in high esteem by all tribes, and some -live upon it almost exclusively during the rains, when -cattle find plentiful pasture. It is consumed in three -forms—“mabichi,” when drunk fresh; or converted -into mabivu (butter-milk), the rubb of Arabs; or in -the shape of mtindi (curded milk), the laban of Arabia, -and the Indian dahi. These Africans ignore the dudh-pinda, -or ball of fresh-milk boiled down to hardness by -evaporation of the serum, as practised by the Indian -halwaí (confectioner); the indurated sour-clot of Arabia, -called by the Bedouins el igt, and by the Persians the -Baloch, and the Sindhians kurut, is also unknown; and -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-284">[284]</span> -they consider cheese a miracle, and use against it their -stock denunciation, the danger of bewitching cattle. -The fresh produce, moreover, has few charms as a poculent -amongst barbarous and milk-drinking races: the Arabs -and the Portuguese in Africa avoid it after the sun is -high, believing it to increase bile, and eventually to -cause fever: it is certain that, however pleasant the -draught may be in the cool of the morning, it is by no -means so much relished during the heat of the day. -On the other hand, the curded milk is everywhere a -favourite on account of its cooling and thirst-quenching -properties, and the people accustomed to it from infancy -have for it an excessive longing. It is procurable in -every village where cows are kept, whereas that newly-drawn -is generally half-soured from being at once -stored in the earthen pots used for curding it. These -East Africans do not, however, make their dahi, like -the Somal, in lumps floating upon the tartest possible -serum; nor do they turn it, like the Arabs, with kid’s -rennet, nor like the Baloch with the solanaceous plant -called panir. The best is made, as in India, by allowing -the milk to stand till it clots in a pot used for the -purpose, and frequently smoked for purity. Butter-milk -is procurable only in those parts of the country -where the people have an abundance of cattle.</p> - -<p>Butter is made by filling a large gourd, which acts -as churn, with partially-soured milk, which is shaken -to and fro: it is a poor article, thin, colourless, and -tainted by being stored for two or three months, without -preliminary washing, in the bark-boxes called -vilindo. In the Eastern regions it is converted into -ghee by simply melting over the fire: it is not boiled -to expel the remnant of sour milk, impurities are not -removed by skimming, and finally it becomes rancid -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-285">[285]</span> -and bitter by storing in pots and gourds which have -been used for the purpose during half a generation. -The Arabs attempt to do away with the nauseous taste -by throwing into it when boiling a little water, with a -handful of flour or of unpowdered rice. Westward of -Unyamwezi butter is burned instead of oil in lamps.</p> - -<p>The common oil in East Africa is that of the karanga, -bhuiphali, or ground-nut (Arachis hypogæa): when ghee -is not procurable, the Arabs eat it, like cocoa-nut oil, -with beans, manioc, sweet-potato and other vegetables. -A superior kind of cooking is the “uto” extracted -from the ufuta, simsim or sesamum, which grows -everywhere upon the coast, and extends far into the -interior. The process of pressing is managed by -pounding the grain dry in a huge mortar; when the -oil begins to appear, a little hot water is poured in, and -the mass is forcibly squeezed with huge pestles; all -that floats is then ladled out into pots and gourds. -The viscid chikichi (palm-oil) is found only in the -vicinity of the Tanganyika Lake, although the tree -grows in Zanzibar and its adjacent islets. Oil is extracted -from the two varieties of the castor-plant; and, -in spite of its unsavoury smell, it is extensively used -as an unguent by the people. At Unyanyembe and -other places where the cucumber grows almost wild, the -Arabs derive from its seed an admirable salad-oil, which -in flavour equals, and perhaps surpasses, the finest -produce of the olive. The latter tree is unknown in -East Africa to the Arabs, who speak of it with a religious -respect, on account of the mention made of it -in the Koran.</p> - -<p>In East Africa every man is his own maltster; and -the “Iwánzá,” or public-house of the village, is the -common brewery. In some tribes, however, fermentation -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-286">[286]</span> -is the essential occupation of the women. The principal -inebrient is a beer without hops, called pombe. -This ποτος θειος of the negro and negroid races dates -from the age of Osiris: it is the buzah of Egypt and -the farther East, and the merissa of the Upper Nile, -the ξιθον and xythum of the West, and the oala or -boyaloa of the Kafirs and the South African races. -The taste is somewhat like soured wort of the smallest -description, but strangers, who at first dislike it exceedingly, -are soon reconciled to it by the pleasurable -sensations to which it gives rise. Without violent -action, it affects the head, and produces an agreeable -narcotism, followed by sound sleep and heaviness in the -morning—as much liked by the barbarian, to whom -inebriation is a boon, as feared by the civilised man. -Being, as the Arabs say, a “cold drink,” causing -hydrocele and rheumatism, it has some of the after-effects -of gin, and the drunkard is readily recognised -by his red and bleared eyes. When made thick with -the grounds or sediment of grain, it is exceedingly -nutricious. Many a gallon must be drunk by the -veteran malt-worm before intoxication; and individuals -of both sexes sometimes live almost entirely upon -pombe. It is usually made as follows: half of the -grain—holcus, panicum, or both mixed—intended for -the brew is buried or soaked in water till it sprouts; -it is then pounded and mixed with the other half, also -reduced to flour, and sometimes with a little honey. The -compound is boiled twice or thrice in huge pots, strained, -when wanted clear, through a bag of matting, and -allowed to ferment: after the third day it becomes -as sour as vinegar. The “togwa” is a favourite drink, -also made of holcus. At first it is thick and sickly, -like honeyed gruel; when sour it becomes exceedingly -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-287">[287]</span> -heady. As these liquors consume a quantity of grain, -they are ever expensive; the large gourdful never -fetches less than two khete or strings of beads, and -strangers must often pay ten khete for the luxury. -Some years ago an Arab taught the Wanyamwezi to -distil: they soon, however, returned to their favourite -fermentation.</p> - -<p>The use of pombe is general throughout the country: -the other inebrients are local. At the island and on -the coast of Zanzibar tembo, or toddy, in the West -African dialects tombo, is drawn from the cocoa-tree; and -in places a pernicious alcohol, called mvinyo, is extracted -from it. The Wajiji and other races upon the -Tanganyika Lake tap the Guinea-palm for a toddy, -which, drawn in unclean pots, soon becomes acid and -acrid as the Silesian wine that serves to mend the -broken limbs of the poor. The use of bhang and -datura-seed has already been alluded to. “Máwá,” or -plantain-wine, is highly prized because it readily intoxicates. -The fruit when ripe is peeled and hand-kneaded -with coarse green grass, in a wide-mouthed earthen -pot, till all the juice is extracted: the sweet must is then -strained through a <i>cornet</i> of plantain-leaf into a clean -gourd, which is but partially stopped. To hasten fermentation -a handful of toasted or pounded grain is -added: after standing for two days in a warm room the -wine is ready for drinking.</p> - -<p>The East Africans ignore the sparkling berille or -hydromel of Abyssinia and Harar, and the mead of the -Bushman race. Yet honey abounds throughout the -country, and near the villages log-hives, which from -their shape are called mazinga or cannons by the people, -hang from every tall and shady tree. Bees also swarm -in the jungles, performing an important part in the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-288">[288]</span> -vegetable economy by masculation or caprification, and -the conveyance of pollen. Their produce is of two -kinds. The cheaper resembles wasp-honey in Europe; -it is found in the forest, and stored in gourds. More -than half-filled with dirt and wood-bark, it affords but -little wax; the liquid is thin and watery, and it has a -peculiarly unpleasant flavour. The better variety, the -hive-honey, is as superior to the produce of the jungle -as it is inferior to that of India and of more civilised -lands. It is tolerable until kept too long, and it -supplies a good yellow wax, used by the Arabs to mix -with tallow in the manufacture of “dips.” The best -honey is sold after the rains; but the African hoards his -store till it reddens, showing the first stage of fermentation: -he will eat it after the second or third year, -when it thins, froths, and becomes a rufous-brown -fluid of unsavoury taste; and he rarely takes the -trouble to remove the comb, though the Arabs set him -the example of straining the honey through bags of -plantain-straw or matting. Decomposition, moreover, -is assisted by softening the honey over the fire to extract -the wax instead of placing it in the sun. The price -varies from one to three cloths for a large gourdful. -When cheap, the Arabs make from it “honey-sugar:” -the material, after being strained and cleaned, is stored -for two or three weeks in a cool place till surface-granulation -takes place; the produce resembles in taste and -appearance coarse brown sugar. The “siki,” a vinegar -of the country, is also made of one part honey and four -of water, left for a fortnight to acetise: it is weak and -insipid. Honey is the only sweetener in the country, -except in the places where the sugar-cane grows, -namely, the maritime and the Lakist regions. The -people chew it, ignoring the simple art of extracting -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-289">[289]</span> -and inspissating the juice; nor do they, like the natives -of Usumbara, convert it into an inebrient. Yet sugar -attracts them like flies; they clap their hands with -delight at the taste; they buy it for its weight of ivory; -and if a thimbleful of the powder happen to fall upon -the ground, they will eat an ounce of earth rather than -lose a grain of it.</p> - -<p>After eating, the East African invariably indulges in -a long fit of torpidity, from which he awakes to pass -the afternoon as he did the forenoon, chatting, playing, -smoking, and chewing “sweet-earth.” Towards sunset -all issue forth to enjoy the coolness: the men sit outside -the Iwánzá, whilst the women and the girls, after fetching -water for household wants from the well, collecting -in a group upon their little stools, indulge in the -pleasures of gossipred and the pipe. This hour in the -more favoured parts of the country is replete with -enjoyment, which even the barbarian feels, though not -yet indoctrinated into æsthetics. As the hours of darkness -draw nigh, the village doors are carefully closed, -and, after milking his cows, each peasant retires to his -hut, or passes his time squatting round the fire with his -friends in the Iwánzá. He has not yet learned the art -of making a wick, and of filling a bit of pottery with -oil. When a light is wanted, he ignites a stick of the -oleaginous mtata, or msásá-tree—a yellow, hard, close-grained, -and elastic wood, with few knots, much used -in making spears, bows, and walking staves—which -burns for a quarter of an hour with a brilliant flame. -He repairs to his hard couch before midnight, and snores -with a single sleep till dawn. For thorough enjoyment, -night must be spent in insensibility, as day is in -inebriety; and, though an early riser, he avoids the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-290">[290]</span> -“early to bed,” in order that he may be able to slumber -through half the day.</p> - -<p>It is evident that these barbarians lead rather a -“fast” life; there are, however, two points that modify -its evil consequences. The “damned distillation” is -unknown, consequently they do not suffer from delirium -tremens, its offspring. Their only brain-work is that -necessitated by the simple wants of life, and by the -unartificial style of gambling which they affect. -Amongst the civilized, the peculiar state of the nervous -system in the individual, and in society, the abnormal -conditions induced by overcrowding in cities and towns, -has engendered a cohort of dire diseases which the -children of nature ignore.</p> - -<p>Such is the African’s idle day, and thus every summer -is spent. As the wintry rains draw nigh, the necessity -of daily bread suggests itself. The peasants then leave -their huts at 6 or 7 <span class="smcapall">A.M.</span>, often without provision, which -now becomes scarce, and labour till noon, or 2 <span class="smcapall">P.M.</span>, -when they return home, and find food prepared by the -wife or the slave-girl. During the afternoon they -return to work, and sometimes, when the rains are near, -they are aided by the women. Towards sunset all -wend homewards in a body, laden with their implements -of cultivation, and singing a kind of “dulce domum,” -in a simple and pleasing recitative.</p> - -<p>When the moon shines bright the spirits of the East -African are raised like the jackal’s, and a furious drumming -and a droning chorus summon the maidens to -come out and enjoy the spectacle of a dance. The -sexes seldom perform together, but they have no -objection to be gazed at by each other. Their style of -saltation is remarkable only for the extreme gravity -which it induces—at no other time does the East -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-291">[291]</span> -African look so serious and so full of earnest purpose. -Yet with all this thoughtfulness, “poor human nature -cannot dance of itself.” The dance has already been -described as far as possible: as may be imagined, the -African Thalia is by no means free from the reproach -which caused Mohammed to taboo her to his followers.</p> - -<p>Music is at a low ebb. Admirable timists, and no -mean tunists, the people betray their incapacity for -improvement by remaining contented with the simplest -and the most monotonous combinations of sounds. As in -everything else, so in this art, creative talent is wanting. -A higher development would have produced other -results; yet it is impossible not to remark the delight -which they take in harmony. The fisherman will -accompany his paddle, the porter his trudge, and the -housewife her task of rubbing down grain, with song; -and for long hours at night the peasants will sit in a -ring repeating, with a zest that never flags, the same -few notes, and the same unmeaning line. Their style -is the recitative, broken by a full chorus, and they -appear to affect the major rather than the interminable -minor key of the Asiatic. Their singing also wants -the strained upper notes of the cracked-voiced Indian -performer, and it ignores the complicated raga and -ragini or Hindu modes, which appear rather the musical -expression of high mathematics than the natural -language of harmony and melody.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-292">[292]</span></p> - -<div class="container w40em" id="Illoii-16"> -<img src="images/ii_illo312.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class="nowrap">1. Paddle in East Africa.</span> -<span class="nowrap">2. The Sange or Gourd.</span> -<span class="nowrap">3. Bellows.</span> -<span class="nowrap">4. Drum.</span> -<span class="nowrap">5. Stool.</span> -<span class="nowrap">6. The Zeze (guitar).</span> -<span class="nowrap">7. The D’hete, or Kidete.</span></p> -</div> - -<p>The instruments of the East African are all of foreign -invention, imported from various regions, Madagascar, -and the coast. Those principally in use are the following. -The zeze, or banjo, resembles in sound the -monochord Arabian rubabah, the rude ancestor of the -Spanish guitar. The sounding-board is a large hollow -gourd, open below; on the upper part, fastened by -strings that pass through drilled holes, is a conical -piece of gourd, cleft longitudinally to admit the arm or -handle, which projects at a right angle. The arm is -made of light wood, from 18 inches to 2 feet in length; -the left-hand extremity has three frets formed by two -notches, with intervals, and thus the total range is of -six notes. A single string, made of “mondo,” the -fibre of the mwale or raphia-palm, is tied to a knob of -wood projecting from the dexter extremity of the -handle, thence it passes over a bridge of bent quill, -which for tuning is raised or depressed, and lastly it is -secured round another knob at the end beyond the -frets. Sometimes, to form a bass or drone, a second -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-293">[293]</span> -string is similarly attached along the side of the arm, -whilst the treble runs along the top.</p> - -<p>The kinanda, a prototype of the psaltery and harp, -the lute and lyre, and much used by the southern races -in the neighbourhood of Kilwa, is of two kinds. One is -a shallow box cut out of a single plank, thirteen inches -long by five or six in breadth, and about two inches in -depth: eleven or twelve strings are drawn tightly over -the hollow. The instrument is placed in the lap, and -performed upon with both hands. The other is a small -bow-guitar, with an open gourd attached to the part -about the handle: sometimes the bow passes through -the gourd. This instrument is held in the left hand, -whilst the “tocador” strikes its single cord with a -thin cane-plectrum about one foot long. As in the -zeze, the gourd is often adorned with black tattoo, -or bright brass tacks, disposed in various patterns, -amongst which the circle and the crescent figure conspicuously. -A third form of the kinanda appears to be -a barbarous ancestor of the Grecian lyre, which, like -the modern Nubian “kisirka,” is a lineal descendant -from the Egyptian oryx-horn lute with the transverse -bar. A combination of the zeze and kinanda is made -by binding a dwarf hollow box with its numerous -strings to the open top of a large circular gourd, -which then acts as a sounding-board.</p> - -<p>The wind-instruments are equally rude, though by -no means so feeble as their rivals. The nai or sackbut -of India, and the siwa, a huge bassoon of black wood, at -least five feet long, are known only to the coast-people. -The tribes of the interior use the d’hete or kidete, -called by the Wasawahili zumari. It is literally the -bucolic reed, a hollowed holcus-cane, pierced with four -holes at the further end: the mouthpiece is not stopped -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-294">[294]</span> -in any way, and the instrument is played upon solely -by the lips, a drone being sometimes supplied by the -voice. Thus simple and ineffective, it has nevertheless -a familiar sound to European ears. The barghumi is -made by cutting an oblong hole, about the size of a -man’s nail, within two or three inches of the tip of a -koodoo, an oryx, or a goat’s horn, which, for effect and -appearance, is sometimes capped with a bit of cane, -whence projects a long zebra’s or giraffe’s tail. Like -the det’he, it is played upon by the lips; and without -any attempt at stops or keys, four or five notes may be -produced. Its sound, heard from afar, especially in the -deep silence of a tropical night, resembles not a little -the sad, sweet music of the French <i>cor-de-chasse</i>; and -when well performed upon, it might be mistaken for a -regimental bugle. There are smaller varieties of the barghumi, -which porters carry slung over the shoulder, -and use as signals on the line of march. Another -curious instrument is a gourd, a few inches in circumference, -drilled with many little apertures: the breath -passes through one hole, and certain notes are produced -by stopping others with the fingers—its loud, shrill, -and ear-piercing quavers faintly resemble the European -“piccolo.” The only indigenous music of the pastoral -African—the Somal, for instance—is whistling, a -habit acquired in youth when tending the flocks and -herds. This “Mu’unzi” is soft and dulcet; the ear, -however, fails to detect in it either phrase or tune. For -signals the East Africans practise the kik’horombwe, or -blowing between the fore and the middle fingers with a -noise like that of a railway whistle. The Wanyamwezi -also blow over the edge of the hollow in a small antelope’s -horn, or through an iron tube; and the Watuta -are said to use metal-whistles as signals in battle.</p> - -<p>The drum is ever the favourite instrument with the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-295">[295]</span> -African, who uses it as the alarum of war, the promise -of mirth, the token of hospitality, and the cure of diseases: -without drumming his life would indeed be a -blank. The largest variety, called “ngoma ku,” is the -hollowed hole of a mkenga or other soft tree, with a -cylindrical solid projection from the bottom, which holds -it upright when planted in the ground. The instrument -is from three to five feet in length with a diameter -of from one to two feet: the outside is protected with a -net-work of strong cord. Over the head is stretched a -rough parchment made of calf’s-skin; and a cap of green -hide, mounted when loose, and afterwards shrunken -by exposure to fire, protects the bottom. It is vigorously -beaten with the fists, and sometimes with coarse -sticks. There are many local varieties of this instrument, -especially the timbrel or tabret, which is about a -foot long, shaped like an hour-glass or a double “darabukkah,” -and provided with a head of iguana-skin. The -effect of tom-toming is also produced by striking hollow -gourds and similar articles. The only cymbal is the -upatu, a flat-bottomed brass pot turned upside down, -and tapped with a bit of wood. The “sanje,” a gourd -full of pebbles, is much affected in parts of the country -by women, children, and, especially, by the mganga or -rain-maker; its use being that of the babe’s rattle -amongst Europeans.</p> - -<p>The insipidity of the African’s day is relieved by frequent -drinking bouts, and by an occasional hunt. For -the former the guests assemble at early dawn, and take -their seats in a circle, dividing into knots of three or -four to facilitate the circulation of the bowl. The -mwandázi, or cup-bearer, goes round the assembly, -giving scrupulous precedence to the chiefs and elders, -who are also provided with larger vessels. The sonzo, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-296">[296]</span> -or drinking-cup, which also serves as a travelling canteen, -is made generally by the women, of a kind of grass -called mávú, or of wild palm-leaf: the split stalks are -neatly twisted into a fine cord, which is rolled up, beginning -from the bottom, in concentric circles, each -joined to its neighbour by a binding of the same material: -it is sometimes stained and ornamented with red -and black dyes. The shape when finished is a truncated -cone, somewhat like a Turk’s fez; it measures -about six inches in diameter by five in depth, and -those of average size may contain a quart. This cup -passes around without delay or heel-taps, and the -topers stop occasionally to talk, laugh, and snuff, to -chew tobacco, and to smoke bhang. The scene of -sensuality lasts for three or four hours—in fact, till -the pombe prepared for the occasion is exhausted,—when -the carousers, with red eyes, distorted features, -and the thickest of voices, stagger home to doze through -the day. Perhaps in no European country are so -many drunken men seen abroad as in East Africa. -Women also frequently appear intoxicated; they have, -however, private “pombe,” and do not drink with the -men.</p> - -<p>The East African, who can seldom afford to gratify -his longing for meat by slaughtering a cow or a goat, -looks eagerly forward to the end of the rains, when the -grass is in a fit condition for firing; then, armed with -bows and arrows, and with rungu or knobkerries, the -villagers have a battue of small antelopes, hares, and -birds. During the hot season also, when the waters -dry up, they watch by night at the tanks and pools, -and they thus secure the larger kinds of game. Elephants -especially are often found dead of drought during -the hot season; they are driven from the springs -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-297">[297]</span> -which are haunted by the hunters, and, according to -the Arabs, they fear migrating to new seats where they -would be attacked by the herds in possession. In many -parts the huntsmen suspend by a cord from the trees -sharpened blocks of wood, which, loosened by the -animal’s foot, fall and cause a mortal wound. This -“suspended spear,” sprung by a latch, has been described -by a host of South African travellers. It has been -sketched by Lieut. Boteler (“Narrative of a Voyage of -Discovery to Africa and Arabia,” chap. iv.); and Major -Monteiro (“O Muata Cazembe,” chap. v.); and described -by Mr. Galton, Mr. Gordon Cumming, and Dr. -Livingstone (chap. xxviii.). Throughout Ugogo and -upon the maritime regions large game is caught in pitfalls, -here called mtego, and in India ogi: in some -places travellers run the risk of falling into these traps. -The mtego is an oblong excavation like a great grave, -but decreasing in breadth below the surface of the -ground and it is always found single, not in pairs as -in South Africa. The site generally chosen is near -water, and the hole is carefully masked with thin -layers of small sticks and leaves. The Indian “surrounds” -and the hopo or V-shaped trap of the Bakwens -are here unknown. The distribution of treasure-trove -would seem to argue ancient partitions and lordships, -and, in dividing the spoils of wild or tame animals, -the chief claims, according to ancient right, the breast. -This custom apparently borrowed by the Hebrews from -Africa (Leviticus, chap. vii. 30, 31), is alluded to by -almost all South-African travellers.</p> - -<p>The elephant roams in herds throughout the country, -affecting the low grounds where stagnating water produces -a plentiful vegetation: with every human being -its foe, and thousands living by its destruction, the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-298">[298]</span> -animal is far from becoming scarce; indeed, the greatest -number of footprints appeared near Chogwe and Tongwe, -stations of Baloch garrisons close to the town of Pangani. -The elephant hunt is with the African a solemn -and serious undertaking. He fortifies himself with -periapts and prophylactics given by the mganga, who -also trains him to the use of his weapon. The elephant-spear -resembles our boarding-pike rather than the light -blunt arm employed in war; it is about six feet long, -with a broad tapering head cut away at the shoulders, -and supported by an iron neck, which is planted in a -thick wooden handle, the junction being secured by a -cylinder of raw hide from a cow’s tail passed over it, -and shrunk on by drying: a specimen was deposited -with the Royal Geographical Society. The spear is invariably -guarded by a mpigi or charm, the usual two bits -of wood bound together with a string or strip of skin. -It is not a little curious that the East African, though -born and bred a hunter, is, unlike almost all barbarians, -as skill-less as an European in the art of el asr, the -“spoor” or “sign.”</p> - -<p>The hunting-party, consisting of fifteen to twenty -individuals, proceeds before departure to sing and dance, -to drink and drum for a consecutive week. The women -form line and perambulate the village, each striking an -iron jembe or hoe with a large stone, which forms an -appropriate accompaniment to the howl and the vigelegele, -“lullilooing,” or trills of joy. At every step the -dancer sways herself elephant-like from side to side, -and tosses her head backwards with a violence threatening -dislocation of the atlas. The line, led by a fugle-woman -by the right, who holds two jembe in one hand, -but does not drum, stops facing every Arab house -where beads may be expected, and performs the most -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-299">[299]</span> -hideous contortions, whirling the arms round the shoulder-socket, -kneeling, and imitating the actions of various -animals. The labour done, the ladies apply to their -pombe, and reappear after four or five hours with a tell-tale -stagger and a looseness of limb which adds a peculiar -charm to their gesticulations. The day concludes with -a “fackeltanz” of remarkable grotesqueness. This -merrymaking is probably intended as a consolation for -the penance which the elephant-hunter’s wife performs -during the absence of her mate; she is expected to -abstain from good food, handsome cloth, and fumigation: -she must not leave the house, and for an act of -infidelity the blame of failure in the hunt will fall -heavily upon her. Meanwhile the men—at least as -“far gone” as the women—encircle with a running -jumping gait, and with the grace and science of well-trained -bears, a drum or a kilindo,—the normal bark -bandbox,—placed with open mouth upon the ground, -and violently beaten with sticks and fists or rubbed and -scraped with stones. It forms also a sounding-board -for a kinanda or bow-guitar, one end of which is applied -to it, whilst a shrill fife of goat’s horn gives finish -and completeness to the band. Around the drum are -placed several elephants’ tails, possibly designed to -serve the purpose of the clay-corpse introduced into the -feasts of ancient Egypt.</p> - -<p>When thoroughly drenched with drink, the hunters -set out early in the morning, carrying live brands lest -fire should fail them in the jungle, and applying them -to their mouths to keep out the cold air. These -trampers are sometimes dangerous to stragglers from -caravans, especially in countries where the robber or -the murderer expects to escape with impunity. In some -places hunting-huts have been erected; they are, however, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-300">[300]</span> -seldom used when elephants are sought, as a herd -once startled does not readily return to the same pasture-grounds. -The great art of the African muinzi or -elephant-hunter is to separate a tusker from the herd -without exciting suspicion, and to form a circle round -the victim. The mganga, then rising with a shout, -hurls or thrusts the first spear, and his example is followed -by the rest. The weapons are not poisoned: they -are fatal by a succession of small wounds. The baited -beast rarely breaks, as might be expected, through the -frail circle of assailants: its proverbial obstinacy is excited; -it charges one man, who slips away, when -another, with a scream, thrusts the long stiff spear -into its hind quarters, which makes it change intention -and turn fiercely from the fugitive to the -fresh assailant. This continues till the elephant, losing -breath and heart, attempts to escape; its enemies -then redouble their efforts, and at length the huge -prey, overpowered by pain and loss of blood trickling -from a hundred gashes, bites the dust. The -victors, after certain preliminaries of singing and -dancing, carefully cut out the tusks with small, sharp -axes, and the rich marrow is at once picked from the -bamboo and devoured upon the spot, as the hare’s liver -is in Italy. The hunt concludes with a grand feast of -fat and garbage, and the hunters return home in -triumph, laden with ivory, with ovals of hide for shields, -and with festoons of raw and odorous meat spitted upon -long poles.</p> - -<p>Throughout East Africa the mouse, as the saying is, -travels with a staff: the education of youth and the -exercises of manhood are confined to the practice of -weapons. Yet the people want the expertness of the -Somal of the North and the Kafirs of the South; their -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-301">[301]</span> -internal feuds perpetuate the necessity of offensive -measures, and of the presence of arms, but their agricultural -state, rendering them independent of the chase, -prevents their reliance upon their skill for daily food. -In consequence of being ever armed, the African like -the Asiatic is nothing without his weapons; he cannot -use his strength, and when he comes to blows he fights -like a woman. Thus the habitual show of arms is -a mere substitute for courage; in dangerous countries, -as in Ugogo, the Wanyamwezi do not dare to carry them -for fear of provocation, whereas at home and in comparative -safety they never appear without spear or -knobstick.</p> - -<p>The weapons universally carried are the spear and -the assegai. The bow and arrow, the knobkerry, the -dagger, and the battle-axe are confined to certain tribes, -whilst the musket and the sword are used beyond the -coast only by strangers. The shield is seldom seen.</p> - -<p>The lance of the European, Arab, and Indian is unknown -to these unequestrian races. The bravest tribes -prefer the stabbing-spear, which brings them to close -quarters with the enemy. The weapon indeed cannot -make the man, but by reaction it greatly modifies his -manliness. Thus the use of short weapons generally -denotes a gallant nation; the old Roman gladius, the -French briquet, and the Afghan charay would be useless -in the hands of a timid people. Under the impression -that the further men stand from their enemies -the less is to be expected from them, the French knights -not inaptly termed the “villanous saltpetre” the -“grave of honour,” whilst their English rivals called -the gun a “hell-born murderer,” and an “instrument -hateful in the sight of God and man.” The Africans -have also acted upon this idea. A great Kafir chief did -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-302">[302]</span> -what Plutarch relates of Camillus: he broke short the -assegais of his “magnificent savages” when he sent -them to war, and forbade each warrior to return without -having stained his stick with blood; the consequence -was, that, instead of “dumb-shooting” at a -distance, they rushed in and won.</p> - -<p>The mkuki, farárá, or spear, is more generally used -for stabbing than throwing. It has a long narrow blade -of untempered iron, so soft that it may be bent with -the fingers; it is capable, however, of receiving a fine -edge. The shoulders are rounded off, and one or two -lines extend lengthways along the centre from socket to -point. At the socket where the shaft is introduced, it -its covered with a bit of skin from the tail of some -animal drawn on like a stocking, and sometimes the iron -is forced on when heated, so as to adhere by contraction of -the metal. The shaft, which is five to six feet long, is -a branch of the dark-brown mkole or the light-yellow -mtata-tree, chosen because close-grained, tough, pliable, -and free from knots; it is peeled, straightened in hot -ashes, pared down to the heart, smoothed with a knife, -carefully oiled or greased, without which it soon becomes -brittle, and polished with the leaves of the mkuba-tree. -The wood is mostly ornamented with twists of brass -and copper wire; it is sometimes plated with zinc or tin, -and it is generally provided with an iron heel for planting -in the ground. Some tribes—the northern Wagogo -and their neighbours the Wamasai for instance—have -huge spear-heads like shovels, unfit for throwing. The -best weapons for war are made in Karagwah.</p> - -<p>The kikuki, assegai, or javelin, is much used by the -Warori and other fighting tribes, who enter action with -a sheaf of those weapons. Nowhere, however, did the -East African appear possessed of the dexterity described -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-303">[303]</span> -by travellers amongst the southern races. The -assegai resembles the spear in all points, except that the -head is often barbed, and it is more lightly timbered; -the shaft is rarely more than four feet in length, and it -tapers to the thinness of a man’s little finger. It is laid -upon the palm of the right hand, and balanced with a -vibratory motion till the point of equilibrium is found, -when it is delivered with little exertion of the muscles -beyond the run or spring, and as it leaves the hand it -is directed by the forefinger and thumb. Sometimes, -to obviate breaking, the assegai is made like the Indian -“sang,” wholly of iron.</p> - -<p>The East African is a “good archère and a fayre.” -The cubit-high Armiger begins as soon as he can walk -with miniature weapons, a cane bow and reed bird-bolts -tipped with wood, to practise till perfect at gourds -and pumpkins; he considers himself a man when he -can boast of iron tips. With many races “pudor est -nescire sagittas.” The bravest, however, the Wamasai -and the Wakwafi, the Warori and the Watuta, ignore -the practice; with <span class="nowrap">them—</span></p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - -<div class="stanza"> -<span class="verse indent4">“No proof of manhood, none<br /></span> -<span class="verse indent0">Of daring courage, is the bow;”<br /></span> -</div><!--stanza--> - -</div><!--poetry--> -</div><!--poetry-container--> - -<p class="noindent">and the Somali abandons it to his Midgan or servile. -The bow in East Africa is invariably what is called a -“self-bow,” that is to say, made of a single piece, -and backed weapons are unknown. It is uncommonly -stiff, and the strongest archer would find it difficult to -“draw up a yard;” of this nature probably was the -bow sent to Cambyses by the Æthiopian monarch, -with the taunting message that he had better not -attack men who could bend such weapons. When -straight it may measure five feet from tip to tip. It is -made with the same care as the spear, from a branch of -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-304">[304]</span> -the mumepweke or the mtata-tree, laboriously cut and -scraped so as to taper off towards the horns, and -smeared with oil or grease, otherwise it is easily sprung, -and it is sometimes adorned with plates of tin and zinc, -with copper or brass wire and tips. The string is made -of hide, gut, the tendons of a bullock’s neck or hock, -and sometimes of tree-fibre; it is nearly double the -bow in length, the extra portion being whipped for strength -as well as contingent use round the upper horn. In -shooting the bow is grasped with the left hand, but the -thumb is never extended along the back; the string is -drawn with the two bent forefingers, though sometimes -the shaft is held after the Asiatic fashion with the -thumb and index. The bow is pulled with a jerk as -amongst the Somal, and not let fly as by Europeans -with a long steady loose. The best bows are made by -the tribes near the Rufiji River.</p> - -<p>The arrow is about two feet in length; the stele or -shaft is made of some light wood, and often of reed. -Its fault is want of weight: to inflict damage upon an -antelope it must not be used beyond point-blank, fifteen -to twenty paces; and a score will be shot into a bullock -before it falls. The musketeer, despising the arrow at a -distance, fears it at close quarters, knowing that for his -one shot the archer can discharge a dozen. From the -days of Franklin to the era of Silistria, Citate, and Kars, -fancy-tacticians have advocated the substitution of the -bow or the addition of it to the “queen of weapons,” -the musket. Their reasons for a revival of the obsolete -arm are its lightness, its rapidity of discharge, and its -silent action. They forget, however, the saying of -Xenophon, that it is impiety in a man who has not -learned archery from his childhood to ask such boon of -the easy gods.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-305">[305]</span></p> - -<p>The East Africans ignore the use of red-hot arrows; -and the poisoned shaft, an unmanly weapon, unused -by the English and French archers even in their -deadliest wars, is confined to the Wanyika of Mombasah, -the Wazaramo, the Wak’hutu, the Western Wasagara, and -the people of Uruwwa. The Wazaramo and Wak’hutu -call the plant from which the poison is extracted Mkandekande. -They sold at somewhat an exorbitant price a -leaf full of the preparation, but avoided pointing out to -the expedition the plant, which from their description -appears to be a variety of euphorbia. M. Werne (“Sources -of the White Nile,” chap. viii.) says that the river tribe prepare -their arrow-poison from a kind of asclepias, whose -milky sap is pressed out between two stones and allowed -to thicken. Dr. Livingstone (chap. viii.) mentions the -use of the n’gwa caterpillar amongst the Bushmen, who -also poison waters with the Euphorbia arborescens; and -Mr. Andersson (chap. vii.) specifies the Euphorbia candelabrum -amongst the Ovaherero and the Hill Damaras. -In East Africa the poison-leaves are allowed to distil their -juices into a pot, which for inspissation is placed over -a slow fire; becoming thick and slab, the contents are -applied with a stick to the arrow, and are smoothed between -the hands. When finished, the part behind the -barb is covered with a shiny brown-black coat, not unlike -pitch, to the extent of four or five inches. After drying -it is renewed by the application of a fresh layer, the old -being removed by exposure to the fire. The people -fear this poison greatly; they wash their hands after -touching it, and declare that a wounded man or beast -loses sense, “moons about,” and comes to the ground -before running a quarter of a mile. Much exaggeration, -however, must be expected upon the subject of -toxicology amongst barbarians: it acts like the Somali -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-306">[306]</span> -arrow-poison, as a strong narcotic, and is, probably, -rarely fatal, even when freshly applied.</p> - -<p>Fearing the action of the wind upon such light shafts -if unfledged, the archer inserts into the cloven end three -or four feathers, the cockfeather being as in Europe perpendicular -when the arrow is nocked. The pile or iron -head is curiously and cruelly barbed with long waving -tails; the neck is toothed and edged by dinting the iron -when hot with an axe, and it is sometimes half-sawed -that it may break before extraction. The East -Africans also have forkers or two-headed shafts, and -bird-bolts or blunt arrows tipped with some hard wood, -used when the weapon is likely to be lost. Before -loosing an arrow the archer throws into the air a -pinch of dust, not to find out the wind, but for good -luck, like the Tartars of Tibet before discharging their -guns. In battle the heavy-armed man holds his spear -and a sheaf of spare arrows in the bow-hand, whilst a -quiver slung to the left side contains reserve missiles, and -a little axe stuck in the right side of the girdle is ready -when the rest fail. The ronga or quiver is a bark-case, -neatly cut and stained. It is of two forms, full-length, -and provided with a cover for poisoned, and half-length -for unpoisoned, arrows.</p> - -<p>The rungu or knobkerry is the African club or mace; -it extends from the Cape to the negroid and the Somal -tribes north of the equator. The shape varies in almost -every district: the head is long or round, oval or irregular, -and sometimes provided on one side with an edge; -it is cut out of the hardest wood, and generally from one -piece. In some cases the knob is added to the handle, -and in others it is supplied with a spear-head. The handle -is generally two feet long, and it is cut thin enough to -make the weapon top-heavy. The Mnyamwezi is rarely -seen abroad without this weapon; he uses it in the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-307">[307]</span> -chase, and in battle against the archer: he seems -to trust it in close quarters rather than the feather-weight -arrow or the spear that bends like gutta-percha, -and most murders are committed with it. The East people -do not, like the Kafirs, use the handle of the knobkerry -as a dibble.</p> - -<p>The sime or dudgeon is the makeshift for the Arab -jambiyah and the Persian khanjar. The form of this -weapon differs in almost every tribe. The Wahumba or -Wamasai use blades about four feet long by two fingers -in breadth; the long, round, and guardless hilt is ribbed -for security of grasp, and covered with leather; their -iron is of excellent quality, and the shape of the -weapon has given rise to the report that “they -make swords on the model of those of the Knights -Templars.” The Wazegura and the Wagogo use knives -not unlike the poniard of the Somal. In some tribes -it is 3·5 feet long, with a leathern sheath extending -half-way up the blade. Generally it is about half that -size, straight, pointed, and double-edged, or jagged with -teeth. The regions about the Lake manufacture and export -great numbers of these weapons varying from a -finger’s length to full dimensions.</p> - -<p>The shoka or battle-axe is much used by the tribes -around the Tanganyika. It has a blade of triangular -shape, somewhat longer and thinner than that used as a -working tool, which is passed through the bulging -head of a short handle cut out of the bauhinia or -some other hard tree. Amongst the Wasagara the -peculiar mundu or bill often serves for the same -purpose.</p> - -<p>The targes of the Wasagara and the Wanyamwezi -have already been described; the Wavinza make a -shield of basket-work six feet by two, and much resembling -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-308">[308]</span> -that of the southern Kafirs, and the Wa’ungu -carry large pavoises of bull’s hide. It is probable -that the exceeding humidity of the climate, so ruinous -to leather, prevents the general adoption of the shield; -on the march it is merely an encumbrance, and the -warrior must carry it on his head beyond the reach of -the dewy grass.</p> - -<p>The maritime races, the Wazegura, and others opposite -the island of Zanzibar, have imprudently been allowed -to purchase fire-arms, which they employ in obstructing -caravans and in kidnapping-commandos against their -weaker neighbours. A single German house has, it is -said, sold off 13,000 Tower muskets in one year. The -arms now preferred are those exported by Hamburg and -America; they fetch 4 dollars each; the French single-barrel -is somewhat cheaper, averaging 3 dollars 50 cents. -In the interior fire-arms are still fortunately rare—the -Arabs are too wise to arm the barbarians against themselves. -In Unyamwezi an old gun is a present for a chief, -and the most powerful rulers seldom can boast of more -than three. Gunpowder is imported from Zanzibar in -kegs of 10 and 25 lbs., bearing the American mark; it is -of the description used in blasting, and fouls the piece -after a few discharges. The price varies at Zanzibar -from 3 dollars 50 cents to 7 dollars, and upon the -coast from 5 to 10 dollars per small keg; in Unyamwezi -ammunition is exchanged for ivory and slaves, and some -Arab merchants keep as many as thirty kegs in the house, -which they retail to factors and traders at the rate of 1 -to 2 shukkahs per lb.</p> - -<p>Swords in East Africa are used only by strangers. -The Wasawahili and the slave-factors prefer the kittareh, -a curved sabre made in Oman and Hazramaut, or, in its -stead, an old German cavalry-blade. The Arabs carry -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-309">[309]</span> -as a distinction the “faranji,” a straight, thin, double-edged, -guardless, and two-handed sword, about four feet -long, and sharp as a carving-knife; the price varies -from 10 to 100 dollars.</p> - -<p>The negroid is an unmechanical race; his industry -has scarcely passed the limits of savage invention. -Though cotton abounds in the interior, the Wanyamwezi -only have attempted a rude loom; and the working -of iron and copper is confined to the Wafyoma and the -Lakist races. The gourd is still the principal succedaneum -for pottery. The other branches of industry -which are necessary to all barbarians are mats and -baskets, ropes and cords.</p> - -<p>Carpentering amongst the East Africans is still in its -rudest stage; no Dædalus has yet taught them to jag -their knives into saws. It is limited to making the cots -and cartels upon which the people invariably sleep, and -to carving canoes, mortars, bowls, rude platters, spoons, -stools, and similar articles of furniture. The tree, after -being rung and barked to dry the juices, is felled by -fire or the axe; it is then cut up into lengths of the required -dimensions, and hacked into shape with slow and -painful toil. The tools are a shoka, or hatchet of puerile -dimensions, perhaps one-fifth the size of our broad axes, -yet the people can use it to better advantage than the -admirable implement of the backwoodsman. The mbizo -or adze is also known in the interior, but none except -the Fundi and the slaves trained upon the coast have -ever seen a hand-saw, a centre-bit, or a chisel.</p> - -<p>Previous to weaving, cotton is picked and cleaned -with the hand; it is then spun into a coarse thread. -Like the Paharis of India, the East Africans ignore the -distaff; they twist the material round the left wrist. The -mlavi, or spindle, is of two forms; one is a short stick, inserted -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-310">[310]</span> -in a hole practised through a lump of lead or burnt -clay, like the Indian bhaunri; the other is a thin bit of -wood, about 1·5 ft. long, with a crescent of the same -material on the top, and an iron hook to hold the thread. -The utanda, or loom-frame differs from the vertical-shaped -article of West Africa. Two side-poles about -twelve feet long, and supported at the corners by four -uprights, are placed at an angle, enabling the workman to -stand to his work; and the oblong is completed by two -cross-bars, round which the double line of the warp, or -longitudinal threads of the woven tissue, are secured. -The dimensions of the web vary from five to six feet -in length, by two to three broad. The weft, or transverse -thread, is shot with two or three thin laths, or spindles, -round which the white and coloured yarns are wound, -through the doubled warp, which is kept apart by -another lath passing between the two layers, and the -spindle is caught with the left hand as it appears at the -left side. Lastly, a lath, broader and flatter than the -others, is used to close the work, and to beat the thread -home. As the workman deems three hours per diem -ample labour, a cloth will rarely be finished under a -week. Taste is shown in the choice of patterns: they -are sometimes checks with squares, alternately black and -white, or in stripes of black variegated with red dyes -upon a white ground: the lines are generally broad in -the centre, but narrow along the edges, and the texture -not a little resembles our sacking. The dark colour is -obtained from the juice of the mzima-tree; it stains the -yarn to a dull brown, which becomes a dark mulberry, -or an Indian-ink black, when buried for two or three -days in the vegetable mud of the ponds and pools. The -madder-red is produced by boiling the root and bark of -a bush called mda’a; an ochreish tint is also extracted -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-311">[311]</span> -from the crimson matter that stains the cane and the -leaves of red holcus. All cloths have the tambua or -fringe indispensable in East Africa. Both weaving and -dyeing are men’s not women’s work in these lands.</p> - -<p>The cloth is a poor article: like the people of Ashanti, -who from time immemorial have woven their own -cottons, the East African ever prefers foreign fabrics. -The loose texture of his own produce admits wind and -rain; when dry it is rough and unpleasant, when wet -heavy, comfortless as leather, and it cannot look clean, -as it is never bleached. According to the Arabs, the -yarn is often dipped into a starch made from grain, -for the purpose of thickening the appearance of the -texture: this disappears after the first washing, and the -cloth must be pegged down to prevent its shrinking to -half-size. The relative proportion of warp and weft is -unknown, and the woolly fuzzy quality of the half-wild -cotton now in use impoverishes the fabric. Despite the -labour expended upon these cloths, the largest size may -be purchased for six feet of American domestics, or for -a pair of iron hoes: there is therefore little inducement -to extend the manufacture.</p> - -<p>Iron is picked up in the state called Utundwe, or -gangue, from the sides of low sandstone hills: in places -the people dig pits from two to four feet deep, and, according -to the Arabs, they find tears, nodules, and -rounded lumps. The pisolithic iron, common in the -maritime regions, is not worked. The mhesi or blacksmith’s -art is still in its infancy. The iron-stone is carried -to the smithy, an open shed, where the work is -done: the smelting-furnace is a hole in the ground, -filled with lighted charcoal, upon which the utundwe is -placed, and, covered with another layer of fire, it is -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-312">[312]</span> -allowed to run through the fuel. The blast is produced -by mafukutu (bellows): they are two roughly rounded -troughs, about three inches deep by six in diameter, -hewn out of a single bit of wood and prolonged into a -pair of parallel branches, pierced for the passage of the -wind through two apertures in the walls of the troughs. -The troughs are covered with skin, to which are fixed -two long projecting sticks for handles, which may be -worked by a man sitting. A stone is placed upon the -bellows for steadiness, and clay nozzles, or holcus-canes -with a lateral hole, are fixed on to the branches to prevent -them from charring. Sometimes as many as five -pairs are worked at once, and great is the rapidity required -to secure a continuous outdraught. Mr. Andersson -(“Lake Ngami,” chap. xvi.) gives a sketch of a -similar contrivance amongst the South Africans: the -clay-tubes, however, are somewhat larger than those -used in Unyamwezi by “blacksmiths at work.” The -ore is melted and remelted several times, till pure; tempering -and case-hardening are unknown, and it is stored -for use by being cast in clay-moulds, or made up into -hoes. The hammer and anvil are generally smooth -stones. The principal articles of ironmongery are -spears, assegais, and arrow-heads, battle-axes, hatchets, -and adzes, knives and daggers, sickles and razors, rings -and sambo, or wire circlets. The kinda is a large bell, -hung by the ivory-porter to his tusk on the line of the -march: the kengere or kiugi a smaller variety which he -fastens to his legs. Pipes, with iron bowls and stems, -are made by the more ingenious, and the smoker manufactures -for himself small pincers or pliers which, curious -to say, are unknown even by name to the more civilised -people of Zanzibar.</p> - -<p>Copper is not found upon this line in East Africa. -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-313">[313]</span> -From the country of the Kazembe, however, an excellent -red and heavy, soft and bright variety, not unlike that -of Japan, finds its way to Ujiji, and sometimes to the -coast. It is sold in bars from one to two feet long. At -Ujiji, where it is cheap, four to five pounds are procurable -for two doti, there worth about four dollars. -Native copper, therefore, is almost as expensive as that -imported from Europe. It is used in making the rude -and clumsy bangles affected by both sexes, sambo, -and ornaments for the spear and bow, the staff and the -knobkerry.</p> - -<div class="container w40em" id="Illoii-17"> -<img src="images/ii_illo333.jpg" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">Gourds.</p> -</div> - -<p>The art of ceramics has made but little progress in -East Africa; no Anacharsis has yet arisen to teach her -sons the use of the wheel. The figuline, a greyish-brown -clay, is procured from river-beds, or is dug up in -the country; it is subjected to the preliminary operations -of pounding, rubbing dry upon a stone, pulverising, -and purifying from stones and pebbles. It is then -worked into a thick mass, with water, and the potter -fashions it with the hand, first shaping the mouth; he -adds an inch to it when dry, hardens it in the sun, -makes another addition, and thus proceeds till it is -finished. Lines and other ornaments having been -traced, the pots are baked in piles of seven or eight, -by burning grass—wood-fire would crack them—consequently -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-314">[314]</span> -the material always remains half-raw. -Usually the colour becomes lamp-black; in Usagara, -however, the potter’s clay burns red, like the soil—the -effect of iron. A cunning workman will make in a day -four of these pots, some of them containing several -gallons, and their perfect regularity of form, and often -their picturesqueness of shape, surprise the stranger. -The best are made in Ujiji, Karagwah, and Ugunda: -those of Unyamwezi are inferior, and the clay of -Zanzibar is of all the worst.</p> - -<p>There are many kinds of pots which not a little -resemble the glazed jars of ancient Egypt. The ukango, -which acts as vat in fermenting liquor, is of the greatest -dimensions. The mtungi is a large water-vessel with a -short and narrow neck, and rounded at the bottom so -as to be conveniently carried on the head. The chungu, -or cooking-pot, has a wide and open mouth; it is of -several varieties, large and small. The mkungu is a -shallow bowl, precisely like those made at the tomb of -Moses, and now familiar to Europe. At Ujiji and on -the Lake they also manufacture smaller vessels, with -and without spouts.</p> - -<p>In a country where pottery is scarce and dear, the -buyu or Cucurbita lagenaria supplies every utensil -except those used for cooking; its many and various -adaptations render it a valuable production. The -people train it to grow in the most fantastic shapes, -and ornament it by tatooing with dark paint, and by -patterns worked in brass tacks and wires; where it -splits, it is artistically sewn together. The larger kinds -serve as well-buckets, water-pots, travelling-canteens, -churns, and the sounding-boards of musical instruments: -a hookah, or water-pipe, is made by distorting the neck, -and the smaller varieties are converted into snuff-boxes, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-315">[315]</span> -medicine-cases, and unguent-pots. The fruit of the -calabash-tree is also called buyu: split and dried it is -used as ladles, but it is too small to answer all the -purposes of the gourd.</p> - -<p>The East Africans excel in the manufacture of -mtemba or bori—pipe-heads. These are of two kinds. -One is made from a soft stone, probably steatite, found -in Usonga, near Utumbara, and on the road to Karagwah: -it is, however, rare, and about ten times the price -of the clay bowls, because less liable to break. The -other is made of a plastic or pipe-clay, too brittle to -serve for pots, and it invariably cracks at the shank, -unless bound with wire. Both are hand-made, and are -burned in the same rough way as the pottery. At -Msene, where the clay pipe is cheapest, the price of the -bowl is a khete, or double string of white or blue beads. -The pipe of Unyamwezi is of graceful shape, a cone -with the apex downwards; this leaves but little of the -hot, oily, and high-smelling tobacco at the bottom, -whereas in Europe the contrary seems to be the rule. -In Ujiji the bowl is small, rounded, and shallow; it is, -moreover, very brittle. The most artful “mtemba” is -made by the people of Uvira: black inside, like other -pottery, its exterior is coloured a greyish-white, and is -adorned with red by means of the Indian geru (Colcothar -or Crocus Martis). Bhang is always, and tobacco -is sometimes, smoked in a water-pipe: the bowl is of -huge size, capable of containing at least half a pound, -and its upper half is made to incline towards the -smoker’s face. The Lakist tribes have a graceful -variety, like the Indian “chillam,” very different from -the awkward, unwieldy, and distorted article now -fashionable in Unyamwezi and the Eastern countries. -The usual pipe-stem is a tube of about 1·5 feet long, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-316">[316]</span> -generally a hollow twig of the dwarf melewele-tree. -As it is rudely bored with hot wire, it must be made -air-tight by wax and a coating of brass or copper wire; -a strap of hairy skin prevents the pipe-shank parting -from the stick. Iron and brass tubes are rare and -highly prized; the fortunate possessor will sometimes -ask for a single specimen two shukkahs.</p> - -<p>Basket-making and mat-weaving are favourite occupations -in East Africa for both sexes and all ages; even -the Arabs may frequently be seen absorbed in an -employment which in Oman would be considered derogatory -to manliness. The sengo, or common basket, -from the coast to the Lake, is an open, shallow, and -pan-shaped article, generally made of mwanzi, or -bamboo-bark, reddened in parts and stained black in -others by the root of the Mkuruti and other trees, and -white where the outer coat has been removed from the -bamboo. The body, which resembles a popular article -in ancient Egypt, is neatly plaited, and the upper ends -are secured to a stout hoop of the same material. The -kanda (in the plural makanda) acts in the interior as -matting for rooms, and is converted into bags for -covering bales of cloth, beads, and similar articles. It -is made from the myara (myala) or Chamærops humilis; -the leaf is peeled, sun-dried, and split with a bit of iron -into five or six lengths, joined at the base, which is -trimmed for plaiting. The Karagwah, the only mat -made in the interior of Africa, is used as bedding and -carpeting; on journeys the porters bivouac under it; it -swells with the wet, and soon becomes impervious to -rain or heavy dew. It is of two kinds: one of rushes -growing in the vicinity of water, the other of grass rolled -up into little bundles. A complicated stitch runs along -the whole length in double lines. The best description -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-317">[317]</span> -of mat is called mkeke. It is made at Zanzibar and the -coast, from the young fronds of the ukhindu or brab, -neatly stained with various dyes. Women of family -pride themselves upon their skill in making the mkeke, -which still attains a price of four dollars. Amongst the -maritime races none but the chiefs have a right to sit -upon it; there are no such distinctions in the interior, -where these mats are carried for sale by the slaves. -From the brab also are made neat strainers to purify -honey, pombe, and similar articles. They are open-mouthed -cylinders, from one to two feet long, and varying -in diameter from three to six inches. The bottom -is narrowed by whipping fibre round the loose ends of -the leaves. The fishing-nets have been described when -treating of the Tanganyika. The luávo, or hand-net, is -made of calabash or other fibre, with coarse wide -meshes; it is affixed to two sticks firmly planted in -the ground, and small animals are driven into it by -beaters.</p> - -<p>The basts or barks and fibrous substances in East -Africa are cheap and abundant, but labour and conveyance -being difficult and expensive, they would require to -be shipped from Zanzibar in the condition of half-stuff. -The best and most easily divisible into pliant and knot-tying -fibres are, upon the coast the pineapple, and in the -interior the plantain. The next in value are the integuments -of the calabash and the myombo tree. These -fibres would produce a good article were it not for the -artlessness of African manipulation. The bark is pounded -or chewed, and, in lieu of spinning, is twisted between -the hands; the largest ropes are made in half an hour, -and break after a few minutes of hard work. A fine -silky twine, used for fishing, is made from the aloetic -plants called by the Wasawahili mkonge, and by the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-318">[318]</span> -Arabs bag, masad and kideh: it is the hig or haskul of -Somaliland, where it affects the poorest ground, cannot -be burnt down, and is impassable to naked legs and -cattle. The leaves are stripped of their coats, and the -ends being tightly bound between two pieces of wood, -the mass of fibre is drawn out like a sword from its -sheath. Fatilah, or matchlock matches, are made in -Zanzibar of cotton, and in the interior of calabash -fibre.</p> - -<p>As might be expected among a sparse population leading -a comparatively simple life, the vast variety of diseases -which afflict more civilised races, who are collected -in narrow spaces, are unknown in East Africa even by -name. Its principal sporadic is fever, remittent and intermittent, -with its multitudinous secondaries, concerning -which notices have been scattered through the preceding -pages. The most dangerous epidemic is its -aborigen, the small-pox, which, propagated without contact -or fomites, sweeps at times like a storm of death -over the land. For years it has not left the Arab colony -at Kazeh, and, shortly before the arrival of the Expedition, -in a single month 52 slaves died out of a total of -800. The ravages of this disease amongst the half-starved -and over-worked gangs of caravan porters have -already been described; as many as a score of these -wretches have been seen at a time in a single caravan; -men staggering along blinded and almost insensible, -jostling and stumbling against every one in their way; -and mothers carrying babes, both parent and progeny -in the virulent stage of the fell disease. The Arabs -have partially introduced the practice of inoculating, -anciently known in South Africa; the pus is introduced -into an incision in the forehead between the eyebrows. -The people have no remedy for small-pox: they trust -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-319">[319]</span> -entirely to the vis medicatrix. There is a milder form -of the malady, called shúrúá, resembling the chicken-pox -of Europe; it is cured by bathing in cold water and -smearing the body with ochreish earth. The Arab -merchants of Unyanyembe declare that, when they first -visited Karagwah, the people were decimated by the -táún, or plague. They describe correctly the bubo under -the axillæ, the torturing thirst, and the rapid fatality of -the disease. In the early part of 1859 a violent attack -of cholera, which extended from Maskat along the eastern -coast of Arabia and Africa, committed terrible ravages -in the island of Zanzibar and throughout the maritime -regions. Of course, no precautions of quarantine or -cordon militaire were taken, yet the contagion did not -extend into the interior.</p> - -<p>Strangers in East Africa suffer from dysenteries and -similar disorders consequent upon fever; and, as in -Egypt, few are free from hæmorrhoids, which in Unyamwezi -are accompanied by severe colics and umbilical -pains. Rheumatism and rheumatic fever, severe catarrhs -and influenzas, are caused by the cold winds, and, when -crossing the higher altitudes, pneumonia and pleurisis -abound in the caravan. On the coast many settlers, -Indian and Arab, show upon the skin whitish leprous -spots, which are treated with various unguents. In the -interior, though well provided with fresh meat and -vegetables, travellers are attacked by scurvy, even in the -absence of its normal exciting causes, damp, cold, and -poor diet. This phenomenon has often been observed -upon the upper course of the Nile; Europeans have been -prostrated by it even in the dry regions westward of the -Red Sea, and the Portuguese officers who explored -Usenda of the Kazembe suffered tortures from the complaint.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-320">[320]</span></p> - -<p>Common diseases among the natives are umbilical -hernia and prolapsus: the latter is treated by the application -of powdered bhang, dry or mixed with ghee. -They are subject to kihindu-hindu—in Arabic, sara—the -epilepsy, which they pretend to cure by the marrow -of rhinoceros’ shank. Of the many fits and convulsions -which affect them, the kichyoma-chyoma is the -most dreaded. The word, which means the “little -irons,” describes the painful sensations, the cramps and -stitches, the spasms and lancinations, which torment the -sufferer. Many die of this disease. It is not extraordinary -that the fits, convulsions, and contortions which -it suddenly induces should lead the people to consider it -in the light of possession, and the magician to treat it -with charms. Madness and idiocy are not uncommon: -of the patient it is said, “Ana wazimo”—“he has -fiends.” In most parts the people, after middle age, -are tender-eyed from the effects of smoke within, glare -without, exposure and debauchery. Not a few samples -of acute ophthalmic disease were seen.</p> - -<p>In the lower and more malarious spots, desquamations, -tumours, and skin diseases are caused by suddenly -suppressed perspiration. The terrible kidonda or helcoma -of the maritime regions and the prurigo of Ujiji -have already been alluded to. The “chokea” is a -hordeolum or large boil, generally upon the upper eyelid. -The “funza” is supposed to result from the bite -of a large variety of fly. It begins with a small red and -fiery swelling, which bursts after a time and produces a -white entozoon about half an inch in length. “Kumri” -are common blains, and “p’hambazi” malignant blind-boils, -which leave a deep discoloured scar; when the -parts affected are distant from the seat of circulation, -the use of the limb is sometimes lost. For most of these -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-321">[321]</span> -sores tutiya or murtutu, blue-stone, is considered a -specific.</p> - -<p>As might be expected amongst an ignorant and debauched -race coming in direct contact with semi-civilisation, -the lues has found its way from the island of Zanzibar -to Ujiji and into the heart of Africa. It is universally -believed both by the natives and by the Arabs, -who support the assertion with a host of proofs, to be -propagated without contact. Such, indeed, is the general -opinion of the Eastern world, where perhaps its greater -virulence may assimilate it to the type of the earlier attacks -in Europe. The disease, however, dies out, and -has not taken root in the people as amongst the devoted -races of North America and the South Sea islands. Although -a malignant form was found extending throughout -the country, mutilation of the features and similar -secondaries were not observed beyond the maritime -region. Except blue-stone, mineral drugs are unknown, -and the use of mercury and ptyalism have not yet exasperated -the evil. The minor form of lues is little feared -and yields readily to simples; the consequences, however, -are strangury, cystitis, chronic nephritic disease, and -rheumatism.</p> - -<p>“Polypharmacy” is not the fault of the profession in -East Africa, and the universal belief in possession tends -greatly to simplify the methodus modendi. The usual -cathartic is the bark of a tree called kalákalá, which is -boiled in porridge. There is a great variety of emetics, -some so violent that several Arabs who have been bold -enough to swallow them, barely escaped with life. The -actual cautery—usually a favourite counter-irritant -amongst barbarous people—is rarely practised in East -Africa; in its stead powder of blue-stone is applied to -the sore or wound, which has been carefully scraped, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-322">[322]</span> -and the patient howls with pain for twenty-four hours. -They bleed frequently as Italians, who even after being -startled resort to a mild phlebotomy, and they cut down -straight upon the vein with a sharp knife. They prefer -the cucurbitula cruenta, like the Arabs, who <span class="nowrap">say,—</span></p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - -<div class="stanza"> -<span class="verse indent00">“Few that cup repent;<br /></span> -<span class="verse indent0">Few that bleed, rejoice.”<br /></span> -</div><!--stanza--> - -</div><!--poetry--> -</div><!--poetry-container--> - -<p class="noindent">A favourite place is the crown of the head. The practitioner, -after scarifying the skin with a razor or a dagger, -produces a vacuum by exhausting the air through a horn -applied with wetted edges; at the point is a bit of wax, -which he closes over the aperture with his tongue or -teeth, as the hospital “singhi” in India uses a bit of -leather. Cupping—called ku hu míká or kumíká—is -made highly profitable by showing strange appearances -in the blood. They cure by excision the bite of snakes, -which, however, are not feared nor often fatal in these -lands. They cannot reduce dislocations, and they -never attempt to set or splint a broken bone.</p> - -<p>The mganga or medicine-man, in his character of -“doctor,” is a personage of importance. He enters the -sick-room in the dignity of antelope-horn, grease, and -shell-necklace, and he sits with importance upon his -three-legged stool. As the devil saves him the trouble -of diagnosis, he begins by a prescription, invariably -ordering something edible for the purpose, and varying -it, according to the patient’s means, from a measure of -grain to a bullock. He asserts, for instance, that a -pound of fat is required for medicine; a goat must be -killed, and his perquisite is the head or breast—a preliminary -to a more important fee. Then the price of -prescription—a <i>sine quâ non</i> to prescribing—is settled -upon and paid in advance. After certain questions, invariably -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-323">[323]</span> -suggesting the presence of poison, the medical -practitioner proceeds to the cure; this is generally a -charm or periapt bound round the part affected. In -common diseases, however, like fever, the mganga will -condescend to such profane processes as adhibiting sternutatories -and rubbing the head with vegetable powders. -If the remedies prove too powerful or powerless, -he at once decamps; under normal circumstances he -incapacitates himself for performing his promise of -calling the next day by expending his fee in liquor. The -Africans have in one point progressed beyond Europeans: -there are as many women physicians as men.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-324">[324]</span></p> - -<div class="container w40em" id="Illoii-18"> - -<img src="images/ii_illo344.jpg" alt="" /> - -<div class="split5050"> - -<div class="left5050"> -<p class="caption">A Mnyamwezi.</p> -</div> - -<div class="right5050"> -<p class="caption">A Mheha.</p> -</div> - -<p class="thinline allclear"> </p> - -</div><!--split--> - -</div><!--container--> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapno">CHAP. XIX.</span><br /> -<span class="chapname">THE CHARACTER AND RELIGION OF THE EAST AFRICANS; THEIR -GOVERNMENT, AND SLAVERY.</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p class="noindent">The study of psychology in Eastern Africa is the study -of man’s rudimental mind, when, subject to the agency -of material nature, he neither progresses nor retrogrades. -He would appear rather a degeneracy from the civilised -man than a savage rising to the first step, were it not -for his apparent incapacity for improvement. He has -not the ring of the true metal; there is no rich nature, -as in the New Zealander, for education to cultivate. He -seems to belong to one of those childish races which, -never rising to man’s estate, fall like worn-out links -from the great chain of animated nature. He unites -the incapacity of infancy with the unpliancy of age; the -futility of childhood, and the credulity of youth, with -the scepticism of the adult and the stubbornness and -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-325">[325]</span> -bigotry of the old. He has “beaten lands” and seas. For -centuries he has been in direct intercourse with the more -advanced people of the eastern coast, and though few -have seen an European, there are not many who have -not cast eyes upon an Arab. Still he has stopped short -at the threshold of progress; he shows no signs of development; -no higher and more varied orders of intellect -are called into being. Even the simple truths of -El Islam have failed to fix the thoughts of men who -can think, but who, absorbed in providing for their -bodily wants, hate the trouble of thinking. His mind, -limited to the objects seen, heard, and felt, will not, -and apparently cannot, escape from the circle of sense, -nor will it occupy itself with aught but the present. -Thus he is cut off from the pleasures of memory, and -the world of fancy is altogether unknown to him. -Perhaps the automaton which we call spiritual suffers -from the inferiority of the mechanism by which it -acts.</p> - -<p>The East African is, like other barbarians, a strange -mixture of good and evil: by the nature of barbarous -society, however, the good element has not, whilst the -evil has, been carefully cultured.</p> - -<p>As a rule, the civilised or highest type of man owns -the sway of intellect, of reason; the semi-civilised—as -are still the great nations of the East—are guided by -sentiment and propensity in a degree incomprehensible -to more advanced races; and the barbarian is the slave -of impulse, passion, and instinct, faintly modified by -sentiment, but ignorant of intellectual discipline. He -appears, therefore, to the civilised man a paralogic -being,—a mere mass of contradictions; his ways are -not our ways, his reason is not our reason. He deduces -effects from causes which we ignore; he compasses his -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-326">[326]</span> -ends by contrivances which we cannot comprehend; -and his artifices and polity excite, by their shallowness -and “inconsequence,” our surprise and contempt. Like -that Hindu race that has puzzled the plain-witted -Englishman for the century closing with the massacres -of Delhi and Cawnpore, he is calculated to perplex -those who make conscience an instinct which elevates -man to the highest ground of human intelligence. He -is at once very good-tempered and hard-hearted, combative -and cautious; kind at one moment, cruel, pitiless, -and violent at another; sociable and unaffectionate; -superstitious and grossly irreverent; brave and cowardly, -servile and oppressive; obstinate, yet fickle and fond of -changes; with points of honour, but without a trace of -honesty in word or deed; a lover of life, though addicted -to suicide; covetous and parsimonious, yet -thoughtless and improvident; somewhat conscious of -inferiority, withal unimprovable. In fact, he appears an -embryo of the two superior races. He is inferior to the -active-minded and objective, the analytic and perceptive -European, and to the ideal and subjective, the synthetic -and reflective Asiatic. He partakes largely of the -worst characteristics of the lower Oriental types—stagnation -of mind, indolence of body, moral deficiency, -superstition, and childish passion; hence the Egyptians -aptly termed the Berbers and negroes the “perverse -race of Kush.”</p> - -<p>The main characteristic of this people is the selfishness -which the civilised man strives to conceal, because -publishing it would obstruct its gratification. The barbarian, -on the other hand, displays his inordinate -egotism openly and recklessly; his every action discloses -those unworthy traits which in more polished races -chiefly appear on public occasions, when each man -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-327">[327]</span> -thinks solely of self-gratification. Gratitude with him -is not even a sense of prospective favours; he looks upon -a benefit as the weakness of his benefactor and his own -strength; consequently, he will not recognise even the -hand that feeds him. He will, perhaps, lament for a -night the death of a parent or a child, but the morrow -will find him thoroughly comforted. The name of -hospitality, except for interested motives, is unknown -to him: “What will you give me?” is his first question. -To a stranger entering a village the worst hut is -assigned, and, if he complain, the answer is that he can -find encamping ground outside. Instead of treating him -like a guest, which the Arab Bedouin would hold to be a -point of pride, of honour, his host compels him to pay and -prepay every article, otherwise he might starve in the -midst of plenty. Nothing, in fact, renders the stranger’s -life safe in this land, except the timid shrinking of the -natives from the “hot-mouthed weapon” and the necessity -of trade, which induces the chiefs to restrain the -atrocities of their subjects. To travellers the African -is, of course, less civil than to merchants, from whom he -expects to gain something. He will refuse a mouthful -of water out of his abundance to a man dying of thirst; -utterly unsympathising, he will not stretch out a hand -to save another’s goods, though worth thousands of -dollars. Of his own property, if a ragged cloth or a -lame slave be lost, his violent excitement is ridiculous to -behold. His egotism renders him parsimonious even in -self-gratification; the wretched curs, which he loves as -much as his children, seldom receive a mouthful of food, -and the sight of an Arab’s ass feeding on grain elicits a -prolonged “Hi! hi!” of extreme surprise. He is exceedingly -improvident, taking no thought for the morrow—not -from faith, but rather from carelessness as to -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-328">[328]</span> -what may betide him; yet so greedy of gain is he that -he will refuse information about a country or the direction -of a path without a present of beads. He also invariably -demands prepayment: no one keeps a promise -or adheres to an agreement, and, if credit be demanded -for an hour, his answer would be, “There is nothing in -my hand.” Yet even greed of gain cannot overcome -the levity and laxity of his mind. Despite his best interests, -he will indulge the mania for desertion caused -by that mischievous love of change and whimsical desire -for novelty that characterise the European sailor. Nor -can even lucre prevail against the ingrained indolence -of the race—an indolence the more hopeless as it is the -growth of the climate. In these temperate and abundant -lands Nature has cursed mankind with the abundance -of her gifts; his wants still await creation, and -he is contented with such necessaries as roots and herbs, -game, and a few handfuls of grain—consequently improvement -has no hold upon him.</p> - -<p>In this stage of society truth is no virtue. The -“mixture of a lie” may “add to pleasure” amongst -Europeans; in Africa it enters where neither pleasure -nor profit can arise from the deception. If a Mnyamwezi -guide informs the traveller that the stage is short, -he may make up his mind for a long and weary march, -and <i>vice versâ</i>. Of course, falsehood is used as a defence -by the weak and oppressed; but beyond that, the -African desires to be lied to, and one of his proverbs is, -“’Tis better to be deceived than to be undeceived.” -The European thus qualifies the assertion,</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - -<div class="stanza"> -<span class="verse indent00">“For sure the pleasure is as great<br /></span> -<span class="verse indent0">In being cheated as to cheat.”<br /></span> -</div><!--stanza--> - -</div><!--poetry--> -</div><!--poetry-container--> - -<p>Like the generality of barbarous races, the East -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-329">[329]</span> -Africans are wilful, headstrong, and undisciplinable: -in point of stubbornness and restiveness they resemble -the lower animals. If they cannot obtain the very -article of barter upon which they have set their mind, -they will carry home things useless to them; any -attempt at bargaining is settled by the seller turning -his back, and they ask according to their wants and -wishes, without regard to the value of goods. Grumbling -and dissatisfied, they never do business without a -grievance. Revenge is a ruling passion, as the many -rancorous fratricidal wars that have prevailed between -kindred clans, even for a generation, prove. Retaliation -and vengeance are, in fact, their great agents of moral -control. Judged by the test of death, the East African -is a hardhearted man, who seems to ignore all the -charities of father, son, and brother. A tear is rarely -shed, except by the women, for departed parent, relative, -or friend, and the voice of the mourner is seldom heard -in their abodes. It is most painful to witness the complete -inhumanity with which a porter seized with small-pox -is allowed by his friends, comrades, and brethren to fall -behind in the jungle, with several days’ life in him. -No inducement—even beads—can persuade a soul to -attend him. Every village will drive him from its -doors; no one will risk taking, at any price, death into -his bosom. If strong enough, the sufferer builds a little -bough-hut away from the camp, and, provided with his -rations—a pound of grain and a gourdful of water—he -quietly expects his doom, to feed the hyæna and the -raven of the wild. The people are remarkable for the -readiness with which they yield to fits of sudden fury; -on these occasions they will, like children, vent their -rage upon any object, animate or inanimate, that presents -itself. Their temper is characterised by a nervous, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-330">[330]</span> -futile impatience; under delay or disappointment they -become madmen. In their own country, where such -displays are safe, they are remarkable for a presumptuousness -and a violence of manner which elsewhere -disappears. As the Arabs say, there they are lions, -here they become curs. Their squabbling and clamour -pass description: they are never happy except when in -dispute. After a rapid plunge into excitement, the -brawlers alternately advance and recede, pointing the -finger of threat, howling and screaming, cursing and -using terms of insult which an inferior ingenuity—not -want of will—causes to fall short of the Asiatic’s model -vituperation. After abusing each other to their full, both -“parties” usually burst into a loud laugh or a burst -of sobs. Their tears lie high; they weep like Goanese. -After a cuff, a man will cover his face with his hands -and cry as if his heart would break. More furious -shrews than the women are nowhere met with. Here it -is a great truth that “the tongues of women cannot be -governed.” They work off excitement by scolding, and -they weep little compared with the men. Both sexes -delight in “argument,” which here, as elsewhere, means -two fools talking foolishly. They will weary out of -patience the most loquacious of the Arabs. This development -is characteristic of the East African race, -and “maneno marefu!”—long words!—will occur as a -useless reproof half a dozen times in the course of a -single conversation. When drunk, the East African is -easily irritated; with the screams and excited gestures -of a maniac he strides about, frantically flourishing his -spear and agitating his bow, probably with notched -arrow; the spear-point and the arrow-head are often -brought perilously near, but rarely allowed to draw -blood. The real combat is by pushing, pulling hair, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-331">[331]</span> -and slapping with a will, and a pair thus engaged -require to be torn asunder by half a dozen friends. -The settled tribes are, for the most part, feeble and -unwarlike barbarians; even the bravest East African, -though, like all men, a combative entity, has a valour -tempered by discretion and cooled by a high development -of cautiousness. His tactics are of the Fabian -order: he loves surprises and safe ambuscades; and in -common frays and forays the loss of one per cent. -justifies a <i>sauve qui peut</i>. This people, childlike, is -ever in extremes. A man will hang himself from a -rafter in his tent, and kick away from under him the -large wooden mortar upon which he has stood at the -beginning of the operation with as much sang-froid as an -Anglo-Saxon in the gloomy month of November; yet -he regards annihilation, as all savages do, with loathing -and ineffable horror. “He fears death,” to quote -Bacon, “as children fear to go in the dark; and as that -natural fear in children is increased with tales, so is the -other.” The African mind must change radically before -it can “think upon death, and find it the least of all evils.” -All the thoughts of these negroids are connected with -this life. “Ah!” they exclaim, “it is bad to die! to -leave off eating and drinking! never to wear a fine -cloth!” As in the negro race generally, their destructiveness -is prominent; a slave never breaks a thing -without an instinctive laugh of pleasure; and however -careful he may be of his own life, he does not value -that of another, even of a relative, at the price of a goat. -During fires in the town of Zanzibar, the blacks have -been seen adding fuel, and singing and dancing, wild -with delight. On such occasions they are shot down by -the Arabs like dogs.</p> - -<p>It is difficult to explain the state of society in which -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-332">[332]</span> -the civilised “social evil” is not recognised as an evil. -In the economy of the affections and the intercourse -between the sexes, reappears that rude stage of society -in which ethics were new to the mind of now enlightened -man. Marriage with this people—as amongst -all barbarians, and even the lower classes of civilised -races—is a mere affair of buying and selling. -A man must marry because it is necessary to his comfort, -consequently the woman becomes a marketable -commodity. Her father demands for her as many -cows, cloths, and brass-wire bracelets as the suitor can -afford; he thus virtually sells her, and she belongs to -the buyer, ranking with his other live stock. The -husband may sell his wife, or, if she be taken from him -by another man, he claims her value, which is ruled by -what she would fetch in the slave-market. A strong -inducement to marriage amongst the Africans, as -with the poor in Europe, is the prospective benefit to -be derived from an adult family; a large progeny -enriches them. The African—like all barbarians, and, -indeed, semi-civilised people—ignores the dowry by -which, inverting Nature’s order, the wife buys the -husband, instead of the husband buying the wife. Marriage, -which is an epoch amongst Christians, and an -event with Moslems, is with these people an incident of -frequent recurrence. Polygamy is unlimited, and the -chiefs pride themselves upon the number of their wives, -varying from twelve to three hundred. It is no disgrace -for an unmarried woman to become the mother of a -family; after matrimony there is somewhat less laxity. -The mgoni or adulterer, if detected, is punishable by a -fine of cattle, or, if poor and weak, he is sold into -slavery; husbands seldom, however, resort to such -severities, the offence, which is considered to be against -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-333">[333]</span> -vested property, being held to be lighter than petty -larceny. Under the influence of jealousy, murders and -mutilations have been committed, but they are rare and -exceptional. Divorce is readily effected by turning -the spouse out of doors, and the children become the -father’s property. Attachment to home is powerful in -the African race, but it regards rather the comforts and -pleasures of the house, and the unity of relations -and friends, than the fondness of family. Husband, -wife, and children have through life divided interests, -and live together with scant appearance of affection. -Love of offspring can have but little power amongst a -people who have no preventive for illegitimacy, and -whose progeny may be sold at any time. The children -appear undemonstrative and unaffectionate, as those of -the Somal. Some attachment to their mothers breaks -out, not in outward indications, but by surprise, as it -were: “Mámá! mámá!”—mother! mother!—is a -common exclamation in fear or wonder. When childhood -is passed, the father and son become natural enemies, -after the manner of wild beasts. Yet they are a -sociable race, and the sudden loss of relatives sometimes -leads from grief to hypochondria and insanity, -resulting from the inability of their minds to bear any -unusual strain. It is probable that a little learning -would make them mad, like the Widad, or priest of the -Somal, who, after mastering the reading of the Koran, -becomes unfit for any exertion of judgment or common -sense. To this over-development of sociability must -be ascribed the anxiety always shown to shift, evade, -or answer blame. The “ukosa,” or transgression, is -never accepted; any number of words will be wasted in -proving the worse the better cause. Hence also the -favourite phrase, “Mbáyá we!”—thou art bad!—a -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-334">[334]</span> -pet mode of reproof which sounds simple and uneffective -to European ears.</p> - -<p>The social position of the women—the unerring test -of progress towards civilisation—is not so high in East -Africa as amongst the more highly organised tribes of -the south. Few parts of the country own the rule of -female chiefs. The people, especially the Wanyamwezi, -consult their wives, but the opinion of a brother -or a friend would usually prevail over that of a -woman.</p> - -<p>The deficiency of the East African in constructive -power has already been remarked. Contented with his -haystack or beehive hut, his hemisphere of boughs, or his -hide acting tent, he hates and has a truly savage horror -of stone walls. He has the conception of the “Madeleine,” -but he has never been enabled to be delivered of -it. Many Wanyamwezi, when visiting Zanzibar, cannot -be prevailed upon to enter a house.</p> - -<p>The East African is greedy and voracious; he seems, -however, to prefer light and frequent to a few regular -and copious meals. Even the civilised Kisawahili has -no terms to express the breakfast, dinner, and supper of -other languages. Like most barbarians, the East African -can exist and work with a small quantity of food, but he is -unaccustomed, and therefore unable, to bear thirst. The -daily ration of a porter is 1 kubabah (= 1·5 lbs.) of -grain; he can, with the assistance of edible herbs and -roots, which he is skilful in discovering in the least -likely places, eke out this allowance for several days, -though generally, upon the barbarian’s impulsive principle -of mortgaging the future for the present, he recklessly -consumes his stores. With him the grand end of -life is eating; his love of feeding is inferior only to his -propensity for intoxication. He drinks till he can no -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-335">[335]</span> -longer stand, lies down to sleep, and awakes to drink -again. Drinking-bouts are solemn things, to which the -most important business must yield precedence. They -celebrate with beer every event—the traveller’s return, -the birth of a child, and the death of an elephant—a labourer -will not work unless beer is provided for him. A -guest is received with a gourdful of beer, and, amongst -some tribes, it is buried with their princes. The highest -orders rejoice in drink, and pride themselves upon -powers of imbibing: the proper diet for a king is much -beer and a little meat. If a Mnyamwezi be asked after -eating whether he is hungry, he will reply yea, meaning -that he is not drunk. Intoxication excuses crime in -these lands. The East African, when in his cups, must -issue from his hut to sing, dance, or quarrel, and the -frequent and terrible outrages which occur on these -occasions are passed over on the plea that he has drunk -beer. The favourite hour for drinking is after dawn,—a -time as distasteful to the European as agreeable to the -African and Asiatic. This might be proved by a host -of quotations from the poets, Arab, Persian, and Hindu. -The civilised man avoids early potations because they -incapacitate him for necessary labour, and he attempts -to relieve the headache caused by stimulants. The barbarian -and the semi-civilised, on the other hand, prefer -them, because they relieve the tedium of his monotonous -day; and they cherish the headache because they can -sleep the longer, and, when they awake, they have something -to think of. The habit once acquired is never -broken: it attaches itself to the heartstrings of the idle -and unoccupied barbarian.</p> - -<p>In morality, according to the more extended sense of -the word, the East African is markedly deficient. He -has no benevolence, but little veneration—the negro -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-336">[336]</span> -race is ever irreverent—and, though his cranium rises -high in the region of firmness, his futility prevents his -being firm. The outlines of law are faintly traced upon -his heart. The authoritative standard of morality fixed -by a revelation is in him represented by a vague and -varying custom, derived traditionally from his ancestors; -he follows in their track for old-sake’s sake. The accusing -conscience is unknown to him. His only fear -after committing a treacherous murder is that of being -haunted by the angry ghost of the dead; he robs as one -doing a good deed, and he begs as if it were his calling. -His depravity is of the grossest: intrigue fills up all -the moments not devoted to intoxication.</p> - -<p>The want of veneration produces a savage rudeness -in the East African. The body politic consists of two -great members, masters and slaves. Ignoring distinctions -of society, he treats all men, except his chief, as -his equals. He has no rules for visiting: if the door -be open, he enters a stranger’s house uninvited; his -harsh, barking voice is ever the loudest; he is never -happy except when hearing himself speak; his address -is imperious, his demeanour is rough and peremptory, -and his look “sfacciato.” He deposits his unwashed -person, in his greasy and tattered goat-skin or cloth, -upon rug or bedding, disdaining to stand for a moment, -and he always chooses the best place in the room. When -travelling he will push forward to secure the most comfortable -hut: the chief of a caravan may sleep in rain or -dew, but, if he attempt to dislodge his porters, they lie -down with the settled purpose of mules—as the Arabs -say, they “have no shame.” The curiosity of these -people, and the little ceremony with which they gratify -it, are at times most troublesome. A stranger must be -stared at; total apathy is the only remedy: if the victim -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-337">[337]</span> -lose his temper, or attempt to dislodge them, he will find -it like disturbing a swarm of bees. They will come for -miles to “sow gape-seed:” if the tent-fly be closed, -they will peer and peep from below, complaining loudly -against the occupant, and, if further prevented, they may -proceed to violence. On the road hosts of idlers, -especially women, boys, and girls, will follow the caravan -for hours; it is a truly offensive spectacle—these uncouth -figures, running at a “gymnastic pace,” half -clothed except with grease, with pendent bosoms shaking -in the air, and cries that resemble the howls of beasts -more than any effort of human articulation. This -offensive ignorance of the first principles of social intercourse -has been fostered in the races most visited by the -Arabs, whose national tendency, like the Italian and -the Greek, is ever and essentially republican. When -strangers first appeared in the country they were received -with respect and deference. They soon, however, -lost this vantage-ground: they sat and chatted with the -people, exchanged pleasantries, and suffered slights, till -the Africans found themselves on an equality with their -visitors. The evil has become inveterate, and no greater -contrast can be imagined than that between the manners -of an Indian Ryot and an East African Mshenzi.</p> - -<p>In intellect the East African is sterile and incult, apparently -unprogressive and unfit for change. Like the -uncivilised generally, he observes well, but he can -deduce nothing profitable from his perceptions. His -intelligence is surprising when compared with that of -an uneducated English peasant; but it has a narrow -bound, beyond which apparently no man may pass. Like -the Asiatic, in fact, he is stationary, but at a much -lower level. Devotedly fond of music, his love of tune -has invented nothing but whistling and the whistle: his -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-338">[338]</span> -instruments are all borrowed from the coast people. He -delights in singing, yet he has no metrical songs: he -contents himself with improvising a few words without -sense or rhyme, and repeats them till they nauseate: the -long, drawling recitative generally ends in “Ah! ha<sup>n</sup>!” -or some such strongly-nasalised sound. Like the Somal, -he has tunes appropriated to particular occasions, as the -elephant-hunt or the harvest-home. When mourning, -the love of music assumes a peculiar form: women -weeping or sobbing, especially after chastisement, will -break into a protracted threne or dirge, every period of -which concludes with its own particular groan or wail: -after venting a little natural distress in a natural sound, -the long, loud improvisation, in the highest falsetto key, -continues as before. As in Europe the “laughing-song” -is an imitation of hilarity somewhat distressing to the -spirits of the audience, so the “weeping-song” of the -African only tends to risibility. His wonderful loquacity -and volubility of tongue have produced no tales, poetry, -nor display of eloquence; though, like most barbarians, -somewhat sententious, he will content himself with -squabbling with his companions, or with repeating some -meaningless word in every different tone of voice during -the weary length of a day’s march. His language is -highly artificial and musical: the reader will have observed -that the names which occur in these pages often -consist entirely of liquids and vowels, that consonants are -unknown at the end of a word, and that they never -are double except at the beginning. Yet the idea of -a syllabarium seems not to have occurred to the negroid -mind. Finally, though the East African delights in the -dance, and is an excellent timist—a thousand heels -striking the ground simultaneously sound like one—his -performance is as uncouth as perhaps was ever devised -by man. He delights in a joke, which manages him like -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-339">[339]</span> -a Neapolitan; yet his efforts in wit are of the feeblest -that can be conceived.</p> - -<p>Though the general features of character correspond -throughout the tribes in East Africa, there are also -marked differences. The Wazaramo, for instance, are -considered the most dangerous tribe on this line: caravans -hurry through their lands, and hold themselves -fortunate if a life be not lost, or if a few loads be not -missing. Their neighbours, the Wasagara of the hills, -were once peaceful and civil to travellers: the persecutions -of the coast-people have rendered them morose and -suspicious; they now shun strangers, and, never knowing -when they may be attacked, they live in a constant -state of agitation, excitement, and alarm. After the -Wazaramo, the tribes of Ugogo are considered the most -noisy and troublesome, the most extortionate, quarrelsome -and violent on this route: nothing restrains these -races from bloodshed and plunder but fear of retribution -and self-interest. The Wanyamwezi bear the highest -character for civilisation, discipline, and industry. Intercourse -with the coast, however, is speedily sapping -the foundations of their superiority: the East African -Expedition suffered more from thieving in this than in -any other territory, and the Arabs now depend for -existence there not upon prestige, but sufferance, in -consideration of mutual commercial advantage. In proportion -as the traveller advances into the interior, he -finds the people less humane, or rather less human. -The Wavinza, the Wajiji, and the other Lakist tribes, -much resemble one another: they are extortionate, -violent, and revengeful barbarians; no Mnyamwezi -dares to travel alone through their territories, and small -parties are ever in danger of destruction.</p> - -<p>In dealing with the East African the traveller cannot -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-340">[340]</span> -do better than to follow the advice of Bacon—“Use -savages justly and graciously, with sufficient guard -nevertheless.” They must be held as foes; and the -prudent stranger will never put himself in their power, -especially where life is concerned. The safety of a -caravan will often depend upon the barbarian’s fear of -beginning the fray: if the onset once takes place, the -numbers, the fierce looks, the violent gestures, and the -confidence of the assailants upon their own ground, -will probably prevail. When necessary, however, severity -must be employed; leniency and forbearance are -the vulnerable points of civilised policy, as they encourage -attack by a suspicion of fear and weakness. -They may be managed as the Indian saw directs, by -a judicious mixture of the “Narm” and “Garm”—the -soft and hot. Thus the old traders remarked in -Guinea, that the best way to treat a black man was to -hold out one hand to shake with him, while the other is -doubled ready to knock him down. In trading with, or -even when dwelling amongst this people, all display of -wealth must be avoided. A man who would purchase -the smallest article avoids showing anything beyond its -equivalent.</p> - -<p>The ethnologist who compares this sketch with the -far more favourable description of the Kafirs, a kindred -race, given by travellers in South Africa, may suspect -that only the darker shades of the picture are placed -before the eye. But, as will appear in a future page, -much of this moral degradation must be attributed to -the working, through centuries, of the slave-trade: the -tribes are no longer as nature made them; and from -their connection with strangers they have derived nothing -but corruption. Though of savage and barbarous -type, they have been varnished with the semi-civilisation -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-341">[341]</span> -of trade and commerce, which sits ridiculously upon -their minds as a rich garment would upon their persons.</p> - -<p>Fetissism—the word is derived from the Portuguese -feitiço, “a doing,”—scil. of magic, by euphuism—is still -the only faith known in East Africa. Its origin is -easily explained by the aspect of the physical world, -which has coloured the thoughts and has directed the -belief of man: he reflects, in fact, the fantastical and -monstrous character of the animal and vegetable productions -around him. Nature, in these regions rarely -sublime or beautiful, more often terrible and desolate, -with the gloomy forest, the impervious jungle, the -tangled hill, and the dread uniform waste tenanted by -deadly inhabitants, arouses in his mind a sensation of -utter feebleness, a vague and nameless awe. Untaught -to recommend himself for protection to a Superior -Being, he addresses himself directly to the objects of -his reverence and awe: he prostrates himself before the -sentiment within him, hoping to propitiate it as he would -satisfy a fellow-man. The grand mysteries of life and -death, to him unrevealed and unexplained, the want of -a true interpretation of the admirable phenomena of -creation, and the vagaries and misconceptions of his -own degraded imagination, awaken in him ideas of -horror, and people the invisible world with ghost and -goblin, demon and spectrum, the incarnations, as it were, -of his own childish fears. Deepened by the dread of -destruction, ever strong in the barbarian breast, his -terror causes him to look with suspicion upon all around -him: “How,” inquires the dying African, “can I alone -be ill when others are well, unless I have been bewitched?” -Hence the belief in magical and supernatural -powers in man, which the stronger minded have -turned to their own advantage.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-342">[342]</span></p> - -<p>Fetissism is the adoration, or rather the propitiation, -of natural objects, animate and inanimate, to which -certain mysterious influences are attributed. It admits -neither god, nor angel, nor devil; it ignores the very -alphabet of revealed or traditionary religion—a creation, -a resurrection, a judgment-day, a soul or a spirit, a -heaven or a hell. A modified practical atheism is thus -the prominent feature of the superstition. Though instinctively -conscious of a being above them, the Africans -have as yet failed to grasp the idea: in their feeble -minds it is an embryo rather than a conception—at the -best a vague god, without personality, attributes, or providence. -They call that being Mulungu, the Uhlunga -of the Kafirs, and the Utika of the Hottentots. The -term, however, may mean a ghost, the firmament, or the -sun; a man will frequently call himself Mulungu, and -even Mulungu Mbaya, the latter word signifying bad or -wicked. In the language of the Wamasai “Ai,” or -with the article “Engai”—the Creator—is feminine, -the god and rain being synonymous.</p> - -<p>The Fetiss superstition is African, but not confined -to Africa. The faith of ancient Egypt, the earliest -system of profane belief known to man, with its Triad -denoting the various phases and powers of nature, was -essentially fetissist; whilst in the Syrian mind dawned -at first the idea of “Melkart,” a god of earth, and his -Baalim, angels, viceregents, or local deities. But -generally the history of religions proves that when man, -whether degraded from primal elevation or elevated -from primal degradation, has progressed a step beyond -atheism—the spiritual state of the lowest savagery—he -advances to the modification called Fetissism, the condition -of the infant mind of humanity. According -to the late Col. Van Kennedy, “such expressions as -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-343">[343]</span> -the love and fear of God never occur in the sacred -books of the Hindus.” The ancient Persians were -ignicolists, adoring ethereal fire. Confucius owned that -he knew nothing about the gods, and therefore preferred -saying as little as possible upon the subject. Men, still -without tradition or training, confused the Creator with -creation, and ventured not to place the burden of providence -upon a single deity. Slaves to the agencies of -material nature, impressed by the splendours of the -heavenly bodies, comforted by fire and light, persuaded -by their familiarity with the habits of wild beasts that -the brute creation and the human claimed a mysterious -affinity, humbled by the terrors of elemental war, and -benefitted by hero and <span class="nowrap">sage,—</span></p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - -<div class="stanza"> -<span class="verse indent00">“Quicquid humus, pelagus, cœlum mirabile gignunt,<br /></span> -<span class="verse indent0">Id duxere deos.”<br /></span> -</div><!--stanza--> - -</div><!--poetry--> -</div><!--poetry-container--> - -<p>The barbarian worshipped these visible objects not as -types, myths, divine emanations, or personifications of -a deity: he adored them for themselves. The modern -theory, the mode in which full-grown man explains -away the follies of his childhood, making the interpretation -precede the fable, fails when tested by experience. -The Hindu, and, indeed, the ignorant Christian, still -adore the actual image of man and beast; it is unreasonable -to suppose that they kneel before and worship -with heart and soul its metaphysics; and an attempt to -allegorise it, or to deprive it of its specific virtues, -would be considered, as in ancient Greece and Rome, -mere impiety.</p> - -<p>By its essence, then, Fetissism is a rude and sensual -superstition, the faith of abject fear, and of infant races -that have not risen, and are, perhaps, incapable of rising -to theism—the religion of love and the belief of the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-344">[344]</span> -highest types of mankind. But old creeds die hard, -and error, founded upon the instincts and feelings of -human nature borrows the coherence and uniformity -of truth. That Fetissism is a belief common to man in -the childhood of his spiritual life, may be proved by the -frequent and extensive remains of the faith which the -cretinism of the Hamitic race has perpetuated amongst -them to the present day, still sprouting like tares even -in the fair field of revealed religion. The dread of -ghosts, for instance, which is the mainstay of Fetissism, -is not inculcated in any sacred book, yet the belief is -not to be abolished. Thus the Rakshasa of the Hindus -is a disembodied spirit, doing evil to mankind; and the -ghost of the prophet Samuel, raised by the familiar of -the Witch of Endor, was the immortal part of a mortal -being, still connected with earth, and capable of returning -to it. Through the Manes, the Umbra, and the -Spectrum of the ancients, the belief has descended to -the moderns, as the household words ghost, goblin, and -bogle, revenant, polter-geist, and spook, Duh, Dusha, -and Dukh attest. Precisely similar to the African -ghost-faith is the old Irish belief in Banshees, Pookas, -and other evil entities; the corporeal frame of the dead -forms other bodies, but the spirit hovers in the air, -watching the destiny of friends, haunting houses, killing -children, injuring cattle, and causing disease and destruction. -Everywhere, too, their functions are the -same: all are malevolent to the living, and they are -seldom known to do good. The natural horror and -fear of death which may be observed even in the lower -animals has caused the dead to be considered vindictive -and destructive.</p> - -<p>Some missionaries have detected in the habit, which -prevails throughout Eastern and Western Africa, of -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-345">[345]</span> -burying slaves with the deceased, of carrying provisions -to graves, and of lighting fires on cold nights near the -last resting-places of the departed, a continuation of -relations between the quick and the dead which points -to a belief in a future state of existence. The wish is -father to that thought: the doctrine of the soul, of -immortality, belongs to a superior order of mind, to a -more advanced stage of society. The belief, as its -operations show, is in presentity, materialism, not in -futurity, spiritualism. According to the ancients, man -is a fourfold <span class="nowrap">being:—</span></p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - -<div class="stanza"> -<span class="verse indent00">“Bis duo sunt homini, manes, caro, spiritus, umbra:<br /></span> -<span class="verse indent2">Quatuor hæc loci bis duo suscipiunt<br /></span> -<span class="verse indent0">Terra tegit carnem, tumulum circumvolitat umbra,<br /></span> -<span class="verse indent2">Manes Orcus habet, spiritus astra petit.”<br /></span> -</div><!--stanza--> - -</div><!--poetry--> -</div><!--poetry-container--> - -<p class="noindent">Take away the Manes and the astral Spirit, and remains -the African belief in the ειδωλον or Umbra, spiritus, or -ghost. When the savage and the barbarian are asked -what has become of the “old people” (their ancestors), -over whose dust and ashes they perform obsequies, these -veritable secularists only smile and reply Wáme-kwisha, -“they are ended.” It proves the inferior organisation -of the race. Even the North American aborigines, -a race which Nature apparently disdains to preserve, -decided that man hath a future, since even Indian corn -is vivified and rises again. The East African has -created of his fears a ghost which never attains the -perfect form of a soul. This inferior development has -prevented his rising to the social status of the Hindu, -and other anciently civilised races, whom a life wholly -wanting in purpose and occupation drove from the -excitement necessary to stimulate the mind towards -a hidden or mysterious future. These wild races seek -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-346">[346]</span> -otherwise than in their faith a something to emotionise -and to agitate them.</p> - -<p>The East African’s Credenda—it has not arrived at -the rank of a system, this vague and misty dawning of -a creed—are based upon two main articles. The first -is demonology, or, rather, the existence of Koma, the -spectra of the dead; the second is Uchawi, witchcraft -or black magic, a corollary to the principal theorem. -Few, and only the tribes adjacent to the maritime -regions, have derived from El Islam a faint conception -of the one Supreme. There is no trace in this country -of the ancient and modern animal-worship of Egypt and -India, though travellers have asserted that vestiges of -it exist amongst the kindred race of Kafirs. The -African has no more of Sabæism than what belongs to -the instinct of man: he has a reverence for the sun and -moon, the latter is for evident reasons in higher esteem, -but he totally ignores star-worship. If questioned concerning -his daily bread, he will point with a devotional -aspect towards the light of day; and if asked what -caused the death of his brother, will reply Jua, or -Rimwe, the sun. He has not, like the Kafir, a holiday -at the epoch of new moon: like the Moslem, however, -on first seeing it, he raises and claps his hands in token -of obeisance. The Mzimo, or Fetiss hut, is the first -germ of a temple, and the idea is probably derived from -the Kurban of the Arabs. It is found throughout the -country, especially in Uzaramo, Unyamwezi, and Karagwah. -It is in the shape of a dwarf house, one or two feet -high, with a thatched roof, but without walls. Upon -the ground, or suspended from the roof, are handfuls of -grain and small pots full of beer, placed there to propitiate -the ghosts, and to defend the crops from injury.</p> - -<p>A prey to base passions and melancholy godless fears, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-347">[347]</span> -the Fetissist, who peoples with malevolent beings the -invisible world, animates material nature with evil -influences. The rites of his dark and deadly superstition -are all intended to avert evils from himself, by -transferring them to others: hence the witchcraft and -magic which flow naturally from the system of demonology. -Men rarely die without the wife or children, -the kindred or slaves, being accused of having compassed -their destruction by “throwing the glamour over -them;” and, as has been explained, the trial and the -conviction are of the most arbitrary nature. Yet -witchcraft is practised by thousands with the firmest -convictions in their own powers; and though frightful -tortures await the wizard and the witch who have been -condemned for the destruction of chief or elder, the -vindictiveness of the negro drives him readily to the -malevolent practices of sorcery. As has happened in -Europe and elsewhere, in the presence of torture and the -instant advance of death, the sorcerer and sorceress will -not only confess, but even boast of and believe in, their -own criminality. “Verily I slew such a one!—I brought -about the disease of such another!”—these are their -demented vaunts, the offspring of mental imbecility, -stimulated by traditional hallucination.</p> - -<p>In this state of spiritual death there is, as may be -imagined, but little of the fire of fanaticism: polemics -are as unknown as politics to them; their succedaneum -for a god is not a jealous god. But upon the subjects -of religious belief and revelation all men are equal: -Davus becomes Œdipus, the fool is as the sage. What -the “I” believes, that the “Thou” must acknowledge, -under the pains and penalties of offending Self-esteem. -Whilst the African’s faith is weakly catholic, he will -not admit that other men are wiser on this point than -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-348">[348]</span> -himself. Yet he will fast like a Moslem, because doing -something seems to raise him in the scale of creation. -His mind, involved in the trammels of his superstition, -and enchained by custom, is apparently incapable of -receiving the impressions of El Islam. His Fetissism, -unspiritualised by the philosophic Pantheism and Polytheism -of Europe and Asia, has hitherto unfitted him -for that belief which was readily accepted by the more -Semitic maritime races, the Somal, the Wasawahili, and -the Wamrima. To a certain extent, also, it has been -the policy of the Arab to avoid proselytising, which -would lead to comparative equality: for sordid lucre -the Moslem has left the souls of these Kafirs to eternal -perdition. According to most doctors of the saving -faith, an ardent proselytiser might convert by the sword -whole tribes, though he might not succeed with individuals, -who cannot break through the ties of society. The -“Mombas Mission,” however, relying upon the powers -of persuasion, unequivocally failed, and pronounced -their flock to be “not behind the greatest infidels and -scoffers of Europe: they blaspheme, in fact, like children.” -With characteristic want of veneration they -would say, “Your Lord is a bad master, for he does -not cure his servants.” When an early convert died, -the Wanyika at once decided that there is no Saviour, -as he does not prevent the decease of a friend. The -sentiment generally elicited by a discourse upon the -subject of the existence of a Deity is a desire to -see him, in order to revenge upon him the deaths of -relatives, friends, and cattle.<a id="FNanchorii17"></a><a href="#Footnoteii17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a></p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnoteii17"></a><a href="#FNanchorii17"><span class="label">[17]</span></a> -That the Western African negro resembles in this point his negroid -brother, the following extract from an amusing and truthful little volume, -entitled “Trade and Travels in the Gulf of Guinea and Western Africa” -(London: Simpkin and Marshall, 1851), will prove:—</p> - -<p>Always anxious,—says Mr. J. Smith, the author,—to get any of them -(the Western Africans) to talk about God and religion, I said, “What have -you been doing King Pepple?”</p> - -<p>“All the same as you do,—I tank God.”</p> - -<p>“For what?”</p> - -<p>“Every good ting God sends me.”</p> - -<p>“Have you seen God?”</p> - -<p>“Chi! no;—suppose man see God, he must die one minute.” (He would -die in a moment.)</p> - -<p>“When you die won’t you see God?”</p> - -<p>With great warmth, “I know no savvy. (I don’t know.) How should I -know? Never mind. I no want to hear more for that palaver.” (I want -no more talk on that subject.)</p> - -<p>“What way?” (Why?)</p> - -<p>“It no be your business, you come here for trade palaver.”</p> - -<p>I knew—resumes Mr. Smith—it would be of no use pursuing the -subject at that time, so I was silent, and it dropped for the moment.</p> - -<p>In speaking of him dying, I had touched a very tender and disagreeable -chord, for he looked very savage and sulky, and I saw by the rapid changes -in his countenance that he was the subject of some intense internal emotion. -At length he broke out, using most violent gesticulations, and exhibiting a -most inhuman expression of countenance, “Suppose God was here, I must -kill him, one minute!”</p> - -<p>“You what? you kill God?” followed I, quite taken aback, and almost -breathless with the novel and diabolical notion; “You kill God? why, you -talk all some fool” (like a fool); “you cannot kill God; and suppose it -possible that God could die, everything would cease to exist. He is the -Spirit of the universe. But he can kill you.”</p> - -<p>“I know I cannot kill him; but suppose I could kill him, I would.”</p> - -<p>“Where does God live?”</p> - -<p>“For top.”</p> - -<p>“How?” He pointed to the zenith.</p> - -<p>“And suppose you could, why would you kill him?”</p> - -<p>“Because he makes men to die.”</p> - -<p>“Why, my friend,” in a conciliatory manner, “you would not wish to live -for ever, would you?”</p> - -<p>“Yes, I want to stand” (remain for ever).</p> - -<p>“But you will be old by and by, and if you live long enough, will -become very infirm, like that old man,” pointing to a man very old for an -African and thin, and lame, and almost blind, who had come into the court -during the foregoing conversation, to ask for some favour (I wonder he had -not been destroyed),—“and like him you will become lame, and deaf, and -blind, and will be able to take no pleasure; would it not be better, then, for -you to die when this takes place, and you are in pain and trouble, and so -make room for your son, as your father did for you?”</p> - -<p>“No, it would not; I want to stand all same I stand now.”</p> - -<p>“But supposing you should go to a place of happiness after death -and——”</p> - -<p>“I no savvy nothing about that, I know that I now live, and have too -many wives, and niggers (slaves), and canoes,” (he did not mean what he said, -in saying he had too many wives, &c., it is their way of expressing a great -number,) “and that I am king, and plenty of ships come to my country. I -know no other ting, and I want to stand.”</p> - -<p>I offered a reply, but he would hear no more, and so the conversation on -that subject ceased; and we proceeded to discuss one not much more agreeable -to him—the payment of a very considerable debt which he owed me.</p> - -</div><!--footnote--> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-349">[349]</span></p> - -<p>Fetissism supplies an abundance of professionally -holy men. The “Mfumo” is translated by the Arabs -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-350">[350]</span> -Bassar, a seer or clairvoyant. The Mchawi is the -Sahhar, magician, or adept in the black art. Amongst -the Wazegura and the Wasagara is the Mgonezi, a word -Arabised into Rammal or Geomantist. He practises -the Miramoro, or divination and prediction of fray and -famine, death and disease, by the relative position of -small sticks, like spilikins, cast at random on the ground. -The “rain-maker,” or “rain-doctor” of the Cape, common -throughout these tribes, and extending far north of the -equator, is called in East Africa Mganga, in the plural -Waganga: the Arabs term him Tabib, doctor or physician.</p> - -<p>The Mganga, in the central regions termed Mfumo, -may be considered as the rude beginning of a sacerdotal -order. These drones, who swarm throughout the -land, are of both sexes: the women, however, generally -confine themselves to the medical part of the profession. -The calling is hereditary, the eldest or the cleverest son -begins his neoteric education at an early age, and succeeds -to his father’s functions. There is little mystery -in the craft, and the magicians of Unyamwezi have not -refused to initiate some of the Arabs. The power of -the Mganga is great: he is treated as a sultan, whose -word is law, and as a giver of life and death. He is -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-351">[351]</span> -addressed by a kingly title, and is permitted to wear -the chieftain’s badge, made of the base of a conical -shell. He is also known by a number of small greasy -and blackened gourds, filled with physic and magic, -hanging round his waist, and by a little more of the -usual grime—sanctity and dirt being connected in -Africa as elsewhere. These men are sent for from -village to village, and receive as obventions and spiritual -fees sheep and goats, cattle and provisions. Their -persons, however, are not sacred, and for criminal acts -they are punished like other malefactors. The greatest -danger to them is an excess of fame. A celebrated -magician rarely, if ever, dies a natural death: too much -is expected from him, and a severer disappointment leads -to consequences more violent than usual. The Arabs -deride their pretensions, comparing them depreciatingly -to the workers of Simiya, or conjuration, in their own -country. They remark that the wizard can never produce -rain in the dry, or avert it in the wet season. -The many, however, who, to use a West African phrase, -have “become black” from a long residence in the country, -acquire a sneaking belief in the Waganga, and fear -of their powers. The well-educated classes in Zanzibar -consult these heathen, as the credulous of other Eastern -countries go to the astrologer and geomantist, and in -Europe to the clairvoyant and the tireuse de cartes. -In one point this proceeding is wise: the wizard rarely -wants wits; and whatever he has heard secretly or -openly will inevitably appear in the course of his divination.</p> - -<p>It must not be supposed, however, that the Mganga -is purely an impostor. To deceive others thoroughly -a man must first deceive himself, otherwise he will -be detected by the least discerning. This is the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-352">[352]</span> -simple secret of so many notable successes, achieved -in the most unpromising causes by self-reliance and -enthusiasm, the parents of energy and consistence. -These barbarians are more often sinned against by their -own fears and fooleries of faith, than sinners against -their fellow-men by fraud and falsehood.</p> - -<p>The office of Uganga includes many duties. The -same man is a physician by natural and supernatural -means, a mystagogue or medicine-man, a detector of -sorcery, by means of the Judicium Dei or ordeal, a -rain-maker, a conjuror, an augur, and a prophet.</p> - -<p>As a rule, all diseases, from a boil to marasmus -senilis, are attributed by the Fetissist to P’hepo, Hubub, -or Afflatus. The three words are synonymous. P’hepo, -in Kisawahili, is the plural form of upepo (a zephyr), -used singularly to signify a high wind, a whirlwind -(“devil”), and an evil ghost, generally of a Moslem. -Hubub, the Arabic translation, means literally the -blowing of wind, and metaphorically “possession.” -The African phrase for a man possessed is “ana p’hepo,” -“he has a devil.” The Mganga is expected to heal the -patient by expelling the possession. Like the evil -spirit in the days of Saul, the unwelcome visitant must -be charmed away by sweet music; the drums cause -excitement, and violent exercise expels the ghost, as -saltation nullifies in Italy the venom of the tarantula. -The principal remedies are drumming, dancing, and -drinking, till the auspicious moment arrives. The ghost -is then enticed from the body of the possessed into -some inanimate article, which he will condescend to -inhabit. This, technically called a Keti, or stool, may -be a certain kind of bead, two or more bits of wood -bound together by a strip of snake’s skin, a lion’s or a -leopard’s claw, and other similar articles, worn round -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-353">[353]</span> -the head, the arm, the wrist, or the ankle. Paper is -still considered great medicine by the Wasukuma and -other tribes, who will barter valuable goods for a little -bit: the great desideratum of the charm, in fact, appears -to be its rarity, or the difficulty of obtaining it. Hence -also the habit of driving nails into and hanging rags -upon trees. The vegetable itself is not worshipped, as -some Europeans who call it the “Devil’s tree” have -supposed: it is merely the place for the laying of -ghosts, where by appending the Keti most acceptable -to the spectrum, he will be bound over to keep the -peace with man. Several accidents in the town of -Zanzibar have confirmed even the higher orders in their -lurking superstition. Mr. Peters, an English merchant, -annoyed by the slaves who came in numbers to hammer -nails and to hang iron hoops and rags upon a “Devil’s -tree” in his courtyard, ordered it to be cut down, to -the horror of all the black beholders, of whom no one -would lay an axe to it. Within six months five persons -died in that house—Mr. Peters, his two clerks, his -cooper, and his ship’s carpenter. This superstition -will remind the traveller of the Indian Pipul (Ficus -religiosa), in which fiends are supposed to roost, and -suggest to the Orientalist an explanation of the mysterious -Moslem practices common from Western Africa -to the farthest East. The hanging of rags upon trees -by pilgrims and travellers is probably a relic of Arab -Fetissism, derived in the days of ignorance from their -congeners in East Africa. The custom has spread far -and wide: even the Irish peasantry have been in the -habit of suspending to the trees and bushes near their -“holy wells” rags, halters, and spancels, in token of -gratitude for their recovery, or that of their cattle.</p> - -<p>There are other mystical means of restoring the sick -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-354">[354]</span> -to health; one specimen will suffice. Several little -sticks, like matches, are daubed with ochre, and marks -are made with them upon the patient’s body. A charm -is chanted, the possessed one responds, and at the end -of every stave an evil spirit flies from him, the signal -being a stick cast by the Mganga upon the ground. -Some unfortunates have as many as a dozen haunting -ghosts, each of which has his own periapt: the -Mganga demands a distinct honorarium for the several -expulsions. Wherever danger is, fear will be; wherever -fear is, charms and spells, exorcisms and talismans of -portentous powers will be in demand; and wherever -supernaturalisms are in requisition, men will be found, -for a consideration, to supply them.</p> - -<p>These strange rites are to be explained upon the -principle which underlies thaumaturgy in general: -they result from conviction in a gross mass of exaggerations -heaped by ignorance, falsehood, and credulity, -upon the slenderest foundation of fact—a fact doubtless -solvable by the application of natural laws. The -African temperament has strong susceptibilities, combined -with what appears to be a weakness of brain, and -great excitability of the nervous system, as is proved -by the prevalence of epilepsy, convulsions, and hysteric -disease. According to the Arab, El Sara, epilepsy, -or the falling sickness, is peculiarly common -throughout East Africa; and, as we know by experience -in lands more civilised, the sudden prostration, rigidity, -contortions, &c. of the patient, strongly suggest the -idea that he has been taken and seized (επιληφθεις) -by, as it were, some external and invisible agent. -The negroid is, therefore, peculiarly liable to the -epidemical mania called “Phantasmata,” which, according -to history, has at times of great mental -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-355">[355]</span> -agitation and popular disturbance broken out in -different parts of Europe, and which, even in this our -day, forms the basework of “revivals.” Thus in Africa -the objective existence of spectra has become a tenet of -belief. Stories that stagger the most sceptical are told -concerning the phenomenon by respectable and not -unlearned Arabs, who point to their fellow-countrymen -as instances. Salim bin Rashid, a half-caste merchant, -well known at Zanzibar, avers, and his companions bear -witness to his words, that on one occasion, when travelling -northwards from Unyanyembe, the possession -occurred to himself. During the night two female -slaves, his companions, of whom one was a child, fell, -without apparent cause, into the fits which denote the -approach of a spirit. Simultaneously, the master -became as one intoxicated; a dark mass, material, not -spiritual, entered the tent, and he felt himself pulled -and pushed by a number of black figures, whom he -had never before seen. He called aloud to his companions -and slaves, who, vainly attempting to enter -the tent, threw it down, and presently found him in a -state of stupor, from which he did not recover till the -morning. The same merchant circumstantially related, -and called witnesses to prove, that a small slave-boy, -who was produced on the occasion, had been frequently -carried off by possession, even when confined in a -windowless room, with a heavy door carefully bolted -and padlocked. Next morning the victim was not -found, although the chamber remained closed. A few -days afterwards he was met in the jungle wandering -absently like an idiot, and with speech too incoherent -to explain what had happened to him. The Arabs of -Oman, who subscribe readily to transformation, deride -these tales; those of African blood believe them. The -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-356">[356]</span> -transformation-belief, still so common in Maskat, -Abyssinia, Somaliland, and the Cape, and anciently -an almost universal superstition, is, curious to say, -unknown amongst these East African tribes. The -Wahiao, lying between Kilwa and the Nyassa Lake, -preserve, however, a remnant of the old creed in their -conviction, that a malevolent magician can change a -man after death into a lion, a leopard, or a hyæna. On -the Zambezi the people, according to Dr. Livingstone -(chap. xxx.), believe that a chief may metamorphose -himself into a lion, kill any one he chooses, and -then return to the human form. About Tete (chap. -xxxi.) the negroids hold that, “while persons are still -living, they may enter into lions and alligators, and -then return again to their own bodies.” Travellers -determined to find in Africa counterparts of European -and Asiatic tenets, argue from this transformation a -belief in the “transmigration of souls.” They thus -confuse material metamorphosis with a spiritual progress, -which is assuredly not an emanation from the -Hamitic mind. The Africans have hitherto not bewildered -their brains with metaphysics, and, ignoring the -idea of a soul, which appears to be a dogma of the -Caucasian race, they necessarily ignore its immortality.</p> - -<p>The second, and, perhaps, the most profitable occupation -of the Mganga, is the detection of Uchawi, or -black magic. The fatuitous style of conviction, and the -fearful tortures which, in the different regions, await -those found guilty, have already been described, as far -as description is possible. Amongst a people where the -magician is a police detector, ordeals must be expected -to thrive. The Baga or Kyapo of East Africa—the -Arabs translate it El Halaf, or the Oath—is as cruel, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-357">[357]</span> -absurd, and barbarous, as the red water of Ashanti, the -venoms of Kasanji (Cassange), the muavi of the Banyai -tribes of Monomotapa, the Tangina poison of the Malagash, -the bitter water of the Jews, the “saucy-water” -of West Africa, and the fire tests of mediæval Europe. -The people of Usumbara thrust a red-hot hatchet into -the mouth of the accused. Among the south-eastern -tribes a heated iron spike, driven into some tender part -of the person, is twice struck with a log of wood. The -Wazaramo dip the hand into boiling water, the Waganda -into seething oil; and the Wazegura prick the ear with -the stiffest bristles of a gnu’s tail. The Wakwafi have -an ordeal of meat that chokes the guilty. The Wanyamwezi -pound with water between two stones, and -infuse a poisonous bark called “Mwavi:” it is first -administered by the Mganga to a hen, who, for the -nonce, represents the suspected. If, however, all parties -be not satisfied with such trial, it is duly adhibited to -the accused.</p> - -<p>In East Africa, from Somaliland to the Cape, and -throughout the interior amongst the negroids and negroes -north as well as south of the equator, the rain-maker or -rain-doctor is a personage of consequence; and he does not -fail to turn the hopes and fears of the people to his own -advantage. A season of drought causes dearth, disease, and -desolation amongst these improvident races, who therefore -connect every strange phenomenon with the object -of their desires, a copious wet monsoon. The enemy -has medicines which disperse the clouds. The stranger -who brings with him heavy showers is regarded as a -being of good omen; usually, however, the worst is expected -from the novel portent; he will, for instance, be -accompanied and preceded by fertilising rains, but the -wells and springs will dry up after his departure, and -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-358">[358]</span> -the result will be drought or small-pox. These rumours -which may account for the Lybian stranger-sacrifices -in the olden time, are still dangerous to travellers. -The Mganga must remedy the evil. His spells are those -of fetissists in general, the mystic use of something foul, -poisonous, or difficult to procure, such as the album -græcum of hyænas, snakes’ fangs, or lions’ hair; these -and similar articles are collected with considerable -trouble by the young men of the tribe for the use of the -rain-maker. But he is a weatherwise man, and rains in -tropical lands are easily foreseen. Not unfrequently, -however, he proves himself a false prophet; and when -all the resources of cunning fail he must fly for dear -life from the victims of his delusion.</p> - -<p>The Mganga is also a predictor and a soothsayer. He -foretels the success or failure of commercial undertakings, -of wars, and of kidnapping-commandos; he foresees -famine and pestilence, and he suggests the means of -averting calamities. He fixes also, before the commencement -of any serious affair, fortunate conjunctions, -without which a good issue cannot be expected. He -directs expiatory offerings. His word is ever powerful -to expedite or to delay the march of a caravan; and in -his quality of augur he considers the flight of birds and -the cries of beasts, like his prototype of the same class -in ancient Europe and in modern Asia.</p> - -<p>The principal instrument of the Mganga’s craft is one -of the dirty little buyu or gourds which he wears in a -bunch round his waist; and the following is the usual -programme when the oracle is to be consulted. The -magician brings his implements in a bag of matting; -his demeanour is serious as the occasion; he is carefully -greased, and his head is adorned with the diminutive -antelope-horns fastened by a thong of leather above the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-359">[359]</span> -forehead. He sits like a sultan upon a dwarf stool in -front of the querist, and begins by exhorting the highest -possible offertory. No pay, no predict. Divination by -the gourd has already been described; the Mganga has -many other implements of his craft. Some prophesy -by the motion of berries swimming in a cup full of water, -which is placed upon a low stool surrounded by four -tails of the zebra or the buffalo lashed to sticks planted -upright in the ground. The Kasanda is a system of -folding triangles not unlike those upon which plaything -soldiers are mounted. Held in the right hand, it is -thrown out, and the direction of the end points to -the safe and auspicious route; this is probably the -rudest appliance of prestidigitation. The shero is a bit of -wood about the size of a man’s hand, and not unlike a -pair of bellows, with a dwarf handle, a projection like -a nozzle, and in the circular centre a little hollow. This -is filled with water, and a grain or fragment of wood, -placed to float, gives an evil omen if it tends towards -the sides, and favourable if it veers towards the handle -or the nozzle. The Mganga generally carries about -with him to announce his approach a kind of rattle -called “sánje.” This is a hollow gourd of pine-apple -shape, pierced with various holes, prettily carved and -half filled with maize, grains, and pebbles; the handle -is a stick passed through its length and secured by -cross-pins.</p> - -<p>The Mganga has many minor duties. In elephant -hunts he must throw the first spear and endure the -blame if the beast escapes. He marks ivory with spots -disposed in lines and other figures, and thus enables it -to reach the coast without let or hindrance. He loads -the kirangozi or guide with charms and periapts to -defend him from the malice which is ever directed -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-360">[360]</span> -at a leading man, and sedulously forbids him to -allow precedence even to the Mtongi, the commander -and proprietor of the caravan. He aids his tribe by -magical arts in wars, by catching a bee, reciting over it -certain incantations, and loosing it in the direction of the -foe, when the insect will instantly summon an army of its -fellows and disperse a host, however numerous. This -belief well illustrates the easy passage of the natural -into the supernatural. The land being full of swarms, -and man’s body being wholly exposed, many a caravan -has been dispersed like chaff before the wind by a bevy -of swarming bees. Similarly in South Africa the -magician kicks an ant-hill and starts wasps which put -the enemy to flight. And in the books of the Hebrews -we read that the hornet sent before the children of -Israel against the Amorite was more terrible than sword -or bow. (Joshua, xxiv.)</p> - -<p>The several tribes in East Africa present two forms -of government, the despotic and the semi-monarchical.</p> - -<p>In the despotic races, the Wakilima or mountaineers -of Chhaga, for instance, the subjects are reduced to the -lowest state of servility. All, except the magicians and -the councillors, are “Wasoro”—soldiers and slaves to -the sultan, mangi, or sovereign. The reader will bear -in mind that the word “sultan” is the Arabic term applied -generically by traders to all the reguli and roitelets, -the chiefs and headmen, whose titles vary in every region. -In Uzaramo the Sultan is called p’hazi; in Khutu, p’hazi -or mundewa; in Usagara, mundewa; in Ugogo, mteme; -in Unyamwezi, mwami; in Ujiji and Karagwah, mkama. -“Wazir” is similarly used by the Arabs for the principal -councillor or minister, whose African name in the several -tribes is mwene goha, mbáhá, mzágírá, magáwe, mhángo, -and muhinda. The elders are called throughout the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-361">[361]</span> -country Wagosi and Wányáp’hárá; they form the council -of the chief. All male children are taken from their -mothers, are made to live together, and are trained to -the royal service, to guarding the palace, to tilling the -fields, and to keeping the watercourses in order. The -despot is approached with fear and trembling; subjects -of both sexes must stand at a distance, and repeatedly -clap their palms together before venturing to address -him. Women always bend the right knee to the earth, -and the chief acknowledges the salutation with a nod. -At times the elders and even the women inquire of the -ruler what they can do to please him: he points to a -plot of ground which he wishes to be cleared, and this -<i>corvée</i> is the more carefully performed, as he fines them -in a bullock if a weed be left unplucked. In war female -captives are sold by the king, and the children are kept -to swell the number of his slaves. None of the Wasoro -may marry without express permission. The king has -unlimited power of life and death, which he exercises -without squeamishness, and a general right of sale over -his subjects; in some tribes, as those of Karagwah, -Uganda, and Unyoro, he is almost worshipped. It is a -capital offence to assume the name of a Sultan; even a -stranger so doing would be subjected to fines and other -penalties. The only limit to the despot’s power is the -Ada, or precedent, the unwritten law of ancient custom, -which is here less mutable than the codes and pandects -of Europe. The African, like the Asiatic, is by nature -a conservative, at once the cause and the effect of his -inability to rise higher in the social scale. The king -lives in a manner of barbarous state. He has large -villages crowded with his families and slaves. He never -issues from his abode without an armed mob, and he -disdains to visit even the wealthiest Arabs. The monarchical -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-362">[362]</span> -tribes are legitimists of the good old school, disdaining -a <i>novus homo</i>; and the consciousness of power -invests their princes with a certain dignity and majesty -of demeanour. As has been mentioned, some of the -Sultans whose rule has the greatest prestige, appear, from -physical peculiarities, to be of a foreign and a nobler -origin.</p> - -<p>In the aristocratical or semi-monarchical tribes, as the -Wanyamwezi, the power of the Sultan depends mainly -upon his wealth, importance, and personal qualifications -for the task of rule. A chief enabled to carry out a -“fist-right” policy will raise himself to the rank of a -despot, and will slay and sell his subjects without mercy. -Though surrounded by a council varying from two to a -score of chiefs and elders, who are often related or -connected with him, and who, like the Arab shaykhs, -presume as much as possible in ordering this and forbidding -that, he can disregard and slight them. More -often, however, his authority is circumscribed by a rude -balance of power; the chiefs around him can probably -bring as many warriors into the field as he can. When -weak, the sultan has little more authority than the -patell of an Indian village or the shaykh of a Bedouin -tribe. Yet even when the chief cannot command in his -own clan, he is an important personage to travelling -merchants and strangers. He can cause a quarrel, an -advance, or an assassination, and he can quiet brawls -even when his people have been injured. He can open -a road by providing porters, or bar a path by deterring -a caravan from proceeding, or by stopping the sale of -provisions. Thus it is easy to travel amongst races -whose chiefs are well disposed to foreigners, and the -utmost circumspection becomes necessary when the -headmen are grasping and inhospitable. Upon the whole, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-363">[363]</span> -the chiefs are wise enough to encourage the visits of -traders.</p> - -<p>A patriarchal or purely republican form of government -is unknown in East Africa. The Wasagara, it is -true, choose their chief like the Banyai of “Monomotapa,” -but, once elected, he becomes a monarch. Loyalty—or, -to reduce it to its elements, veneration for the divinity -that hedges in a king—is a sentiment innate in the -African mind. Man, however, in these regions is not a -political animal; he has a certain instinctive regard for -his chief and a respect for his elders. He ignores, however, -the blessings of duly limited independence and the -natural classification of humanity into superior and -inferior, and honours—the cheap pay of nations—are -unknown. He acknowledges no higher and lower social -strata. His barbarism forbids the existence of a learned -oligarchy, of an educated community, or of a church -and state, showing the origin of the connection between -the soul and body of society. Man being equal to man, -force being the only law and self the sole consideration, -mutual jealousy prevents united efforts and deadens -all patriotic spirit. No one cares for the public good; -the welfare of the general must yield to the most contemptible -individual interests; civil order and security -are therefore unknown, and foreign relations cannot -exist.</p> - -<p>In the lowest tribes the chieftain is a mere nonentity, -“a Sultan,” as the Arabs say, “within his own walls.” -His subjects will boast, like the Somal, that he is “<i>tanquam -unus ex nobis</i>;” and they are so sensible of restraint -that “girdles and garters would be to them bonds and -shackles” metaphorically as well as literally. The position -of these Sultans is about equal to that of the diwans -of the Mrima; their dignity is confined to sitting upon -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-364">[364]</span> -a dwarf three-legged stool, to wearing more brass wire -than beads, and to possessing clothes a little better than -those of their subjects. The “regulus” must make a -return present to strangers after receiving their offerings, -and in some cases must begin with gifts. He must listen -to the words of his councillors and elders, who, being -without salary, claim a portion of the presents and -treasure-trove, interfere on all occasions of blackmail, -fines, and penalties, demand from all petitioners gifts -and bribes to secure interest, and exert great influence -over the populace.</p> - -<p>Legitimacy is the rule throughout the land, and the -son, usually the eldest, succeeds to the father, except -amongst the Wasukuma of N. Unyamwezi, where the -line of descent is by the sister’s son—the “surer side”—for -the normal reason, to secure some of the blood -royal for ruling. Even the widows of the deceased -become the property of the successor. This truly -African practice prevails also amongst the Bachwana, -and presents another of those curious points of resemblance -between the Hamite and Semite races which have -induced modern ethnologists to derive the Arab from -Africa. The curious custom amongst the Wanyamwezi -of devising property to illegitimate children is not carried -out in the succession to power. Where there are many -sons, all, as might be expected, equally aspire to power; -sometimes, however, of two brothers, one will consent to -hold authority under the other. In several tribes, especially -in Usukuma, the widow of a chief succeeds to his -dignity in default of issue.</p> - -<p>Punishments are simple in East Africa. The sar, -vendetta or blood-feud, and its consequence, the diyat or -weregeld, exist in germ, unreduced, as amongst the -more civilised Arabs, to an artful and intricate system. -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-365">[365]</span> -But these customs are founded, unlike ours, upon barbarous -human nature. Instinct prompts a man to slay -the slayer of his kith and kin; the offence is against the -individual, not the government or society. He must -reason to persuade himself that the crime, being committed -against the law, should be left to the law for notice; -he wants revenge, and he cares nought for punishment -or example for the prevention of crime. The -Sultan encourages the payment of blood-money to the -relatives of the deceased, or, if powerful enough, claims -it himself, rather than that one murder should lead to -another, and eventually to a chronic state of bloodshed -and confusion. Thus, in some tribes the individual revenges -himself, and in others he commits his cause to -the chief. Here he takes an equivalent in cattle for the -blood of a brother or the loss of a wife; there he visits -the erring party with condign punishment. The result -of such deficiency of standard is a want of graduation -in severity; a thief is sometimes speared and beheaded, -or sold into slavery after all his property has been extorted -by the chief, the councillors, and the elders, whilst -a murderer is perhaps only fined.</p> - -<p>The land in East Africa is everywhere allodial; it -does not belong to the ruler, nor has the dawn of the -feudal system yet arisen there. A migratory tribe gives -up its rights to the soil, contrary to the mortmain -system of the Arab Bedouins, and, if it would return, -it must return by force. The Sultan, however, exacts -a fee from all immigrants settling in his territory.</p> - -<p>The sources of revenue in East Africa are uncertain, -desultory, and complicated. The agricultural tribes -pay yearly a small per centage of grain; this, however, -is the office of the women, who are expert in fraud. -Neither sowing nor harvest can take place without -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-366">[366]</span> -the chief’s permission, and the issue of his order is -regulated by his own interests. Amongst the hunting -tribes, slain elephants become the hunter’s property, -but the Sultan claims as treasure-trove a tusk of any -animal found wounded or dead in his dominions, and -in all cases the spoils of dead lions are crown property. -The flesh of game is distributed amongst the -elders and the ruling family, who also assert a claim to -the cloth or beads purchased by means of the ivory from -caravans. Some have abditaria and considerable stores -of the articles most valued by barbarians. Throughout -the slave-paths the chiefs have learned to raise -revenue from the slaves, who thus bribe them to forbear -from robbery. But whilst the stronger require large -gifts without return, the weaker make trifling presents, -generally of cattle or provisions, and expect many times -the value in brass wire, cloth, and beads. The stranger -may refuse these offerings; it is, however, contrary to -custom, and as long as he can afford it he should submit -to the imposition. Fiscs and fines are alarmingly frequent. -If the monsoon-rains delay, the chief summons -a Mganga to fix upon the obstructor; he is at once -slain, and his property is duly escheated. The Sultan -claims the goods and chattels of all felons and executed -criminals, even in the case of a servant put to death by -his master. In the more republican tribes the chief -lives by the sweat of his slaves. Briefly, East Africa -presents an instructive study of human society in its -first stage after birth.</p> - -<p>I will conclude this uninteresting chapter—attribute -its dulness, gentle reader, to the effects of the climate -and society of Konduchi—with a subject which strikes -home to the heart of every Englishman, slavery.</p> - -<p>The origin of slavery in East Africa is veiled in the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-367">[367]</span> -glooms of the past. It is mentioned in the Periplus -(chap. iii.), as an institution of the land, and probably -it was the result of the ancient trade with southern -Arabia. At present it is almost universal: with the -exceptions of the Wahinda, the Watosi, and the Wagogo, -all the tribes from the eastern equatorial coast to Ujiji -and the regions lying westward of the Tanganyika -Lake may be called slave-races. An Arab, Msawahili, -and even a bondsman from Zanzibar, is everywhere -called Murungwana or freeman. Yet in many parts of -the country the tribes are rather slave-importers than -exporters. Although they kidnap others, they will not -sell their fellows, except when convicted of crime—theft, -magic, murder, or cutting the upper teeth before -the lower. In times of necessity, however, a man will -part with his parents, wives, and children, and when -they fail he will sell himself without shame. As has -been observed, amongst many tribes the uncle has a -right to dispose of his nephews and nieces.</p> - -<p>Justice requires the confession that the horrors of -slave-driving rarely meet the eye in East Africa. -Some merchants chain or cord together their gangs for -safer transport through regions where desertion is at a -premium. Usually, however, they trust rather to soft -words and kind treatment; the fat lazy slave is often -seen stretched at ease in the shade, whilst the master -toils in the sun and wind. The “property” is well fed -and little worked, whereas the porter, belonging to none -but himself, is left without hesitation to starve upon the -road-side. The relationship is rather that of patron -and client than of lord and bondsman; the slave is -addressed as Ndugu-yango, “my brother,” and he is -seldom provoked by hard words or stripes. In fact, -the essence of slavery, compulsory unpaid labour, is -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-368">[368]</span> -perhaps more prevalent in independent India than in -East Africa; moreover, there is no adscriptus glebæ, as -in the horrid thraldom of Malabar. To this general -rule there are terrible exceptions, as might be expected -amongst a people with scant regard for human life. -The Kirangozi, or guide, attached to the Expedition on -return from Ujiji, had loitered behind for some days -because his slave girl was too footsore to walk. When -tired of waiting he cut off her head, for fear lest she -should become gratis another man’s property.</p> - -<p>In East Africa there are two forms of this traffic, the -export and the internal trade. For the former slaves -are collected like ivories throughout the length and -breadth of the land. They are driven down from the -principal depôts, the island of Kasenge, Ujiji, Unyanyembe, -and Zungomero to the coast by the Arab and -Wasawahili merchants, who afterwards sell them in -retail at the great mart, Zanzibar. The internal trade -is carried on between tribe and tribe, and therefore -will long endure.</p> - -<p>The practice of slavery in East Africa, besides demoralising -and brutalising the race, leads to the results -which effectually bar increase of population and progress -towards civilisation. These are commandos, or -border wars, and intestine confusion.</p> - -<p>All African wars, it has been remarked, are for one -of two objects, cattle-lifting or kidnapping. Some of the -pastoral tribes—as the Wamasai, the Wakwafi, the -Watuta, and the Warori—assert the theory that none -but themselves have a right to possess herds, and that -they received the gift directly from their ancestor who -created cattle; in practice they covet the animals -for the purpose of a general gorge. Slaves, however, -are much more frequently the end and aim of -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-369">[369]</span> -feud and foray. The process of kidnapping, an inveterate -custom in these lands, is in every way agreeable -to the mind of the man-hunter. A “<i>multis utile bellum</i>,” -it combines the pleasing hazards of the chase with the -exercise of cunning and courage; the battue brings -martial glory and solid profit, and preserves the barbarian -from the listlessness of life without purpose. -Thus men date from foray to foray, and pass their days -in an interminable blood-feud and border war. A poor -and powerful chief will not allow his neighbours to rest -wealthier than himself; a quarrel is soon found, the -stronger attacks the weaker, hunts and harries his -cattle, burns his villages, carries off his subjects and -sells them to the first passing caravan. The inhabitants -of the land have thus become wolves to one another; -their only ambition is to dispeople and destroy, and the -blow thus dealt to a thinly populated country strikes at -the very root of progress and prosperity.</p> - -<p>As detrimental to the public interests as the border -wars is the intestine confusion caused by the slave trade. -It perpetuates the vile belief in Uchawi or black magic: -when captives are in demand, the criminal’s relations -are sold into slavery. It affords a scope for the -tyranny of a chief, who, if powerful enough, will enrich -himself by vending his subjects in wholesale and retail. -By weakening the tie of family, it acts with deadly -effect in preventing the increase of the race.</p> - -<p>On the coast and in the island of Zanzibar the slaves -are of two kinds—the Muwallid or domestic, born in -captivity, and the wild slave imported from the interior.</p> - -<p>In the former case the slave is treated as one of the -family, because the master’s comfort depends upon the -man being contented; often also his sister occupies the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-370">[370]</span> -dignified position of concubine to the head of the house. -These slaves vary greatly in conduct. The most -tractable are those belonging to the Diwans and the -Wasawahili generally, who treat them with the utmost -harshness and contempt. The Arabs spoil them by a -kinder usage; few employ the stick, the salib, or cross—a -forked pole to which the neck and ankles are lashed—and -the makantale or stocks, for fear of desertion. -Yet the slave if dissatisfied silently leaves the house, -lets himself to another master, and returns after perhaps -two years’ absence as if nothing had occurred. Thus -he combines the advantages of freedom and slavery. -Moreover, it is a proverb among the Arabs that a slave -must desert once in his life, and he does so the more -readily as he betters his condition by so doing. The -worst in all points are those belonging to the Banyans, -the Indians, and other European subjects; they know -their right to emancipation, and consult only their own -interests and inclinations. The Muwallid or domestic -slave is also used like the Pombeiro of West Africa. -From Unyamwezi and Ujiji he is sent to traffic in the -more dangerous regions—the master meanwhile dwelling -amongst his fellow countrymen in some comfortable -Tembe. This proceeding has greatly injured the commerce -of the interior, and necessitates yearly lengthening -journeys. The slave intrusted with cloth and beads -suddenly becomes a great man; he is lavish in supporting -the dignity of a fundi or fattore, and consulting -nothing but his own convenience, he will loiter -for six months at a place where he has been sent for a -week. Thus it is that ivory sold in Unyamwezi but a -dozen years ago at 10 lbs. for 1 lb. of beads now fetches -nearly weight for weight. And this is a continually -increasing evil. No caravan, however, can safely traverse -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-371">[371]</span> -the interior without an escort of slave-musketeers. -They never part with their weapons, even when passing -from house to house, holding that their lives depend -upon their arms; they beg, borrow, or steal powder -and ball; in fact they are seldom found unready. -They will carry nothing but the lightest gear, the -master’s writing-case, bed, or praying-mat; to load -them heavily would be to ensure desertion. Contrary -to the practice of the free porter, they invariably steal -when they run away; they are also troublesome about -food, and they presume upon their weapons to take -liberties with the liquor and the women of the heathen.</p> - -<p>The imported slaves again are of two different classes. -Children are preferred to adults; they are Islamised and -educated so as to resemble the Muwallid, though they -are even somewhat less tame. Full-grown serfs are -bought for predial purposes; they continue indocile, and -alter little by domestication. When not used by the -master they are left to plunder or to let themselves out -for food and raiment, and when dead they are cast into -the sea or into the nearest pit. These men are the -scourge of society; no one is safe from their violence; -and to preserve a garden or an orchard from the depredations -of the half-starved wretches, a guard of musketeers -would be required. They are never armed, yet, -as has been recounted, they have caused at Zanzibar -servile wars, deadly and lasting as those of ancient -Rome.</p> - -<p>Arabs declare that the barbarians are improved by -captivity—a partial theory open to doubt. The servum -pecus retain in thraldom that wildness and obstinacy -which distinguish the people and the lower animals of -their native lands; they are trapped, but not tamed; -they become captives, but not civilised. However -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-372">[372]</span> -trained, they are probably the worst servants in the -world; a slave-household is a model of discomfort. The -wretches take a trouble and display an ingenuity in -opposition and disobedience, in perversity, annoyance, -and villany, which rightly directed would make them -invaluable. The old definition of a slave still holds -good—“an animal that eats as much and does as little -as possible.” Clumsy and unhandy, dirty and careless, -he will never labour unless ordered to do so, and so -futile is his nature that even the inducement of the stick -cannot compel him to continue his exertions; a whole -gang will barely do the work of a single servant. He -“has no end,” to use the Arab phrase: that is to say, -however well he may begin, he will presently tire of his -task; he does not and apparently he will not learn; his -first impulse, like that of an ass, is not to obey; he then -thinks of obeying; and if fear preponderate he finally -may obey. He must deceive, for fraud and foxship are -his force; when detected in some prodigious act of rascality, -he pathetically pleads, “Am I not a slave?” So -wondrous are his laziness and hate of exertion, that -despite a high development of love of life he often appears -the most reckless of mortals. He will run away from -the semblance of danger; yet on a journey he will tie -his pipe to a leaky keg of gunpowder, and smoke it in -that position rather than take the trouble to undo it. -A slave belonging to Musa, the Indian merchant at -Kazeh, unwilling to rise and fetch a pipe, opened the -pan of his musket, filled it with tobacco and fire, and -beginning to inhale it from the muzzle blew out his -brains. Growing confident and impudent from the -knowledge of how far he may safely go, the slave -presumes to the utmost. He steals instinctively, like -a magpie: a case is quoted in which the gold spangles -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-373">[373]</span> -were stripped from an officer’s sword-belt whilst dining -with the Prince of Zanzibar. The slave is almost always -half-naked; whatever clothes he obtains from the master -are pawned or sold in the bazar; hence he must pilfer -and plunder almost openly for the means of gratifying -his lowest propensities, drinking and intrigue. He -seems to acquire from captivity a greater capacity for -debauchery than even in his native wilds; he has learned -irregularities unknown to his savage state: it is the -brutishness of negroid nature brought out by the cheap -and readily attainable pleasures of semi-civilisation. -Whenever on moonlight nights the tapping of the tomtom -responds to the vile squeaking of the fife, it is impossible -to keep either a male or female slave within doors. All -rendezvous at the place, and, having howled and danced -themselves into happiness, conclude with a singularly -disorderly scene. In the town of Zanzibar these -“Ngoma” or dances were prohibited for moral reasons -by the late Sayyid. The attachment of a slave to his -master is merely a development of selfishness; it is a -greater insult to abuse the Ahbab (patroon), than, -according to Eastern fashion, the father and mother, -the wife and sister. No slave-owner, however, praises -a slave or relies upon his fidelity. The common expression -is, “There is no good in the bondsman.”</p> - -<p>Like the Somal, a merry and light-hearted race in -foreign countries, but rendered gloomy and melancholy -by the state of affairs at home, the negroid slaves -greatly improve by exportation: they lose much of the -surliness and violence which distinguish them at Zanzibar, -and are disciplined into a kind of respect for -superiors. Thus, “Seedy Mubarak” is a prime favourite -on board an Indian steamer; he has also strength and -courage enough to make himself respected. But “Seedy -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-374">[374]</span> -Mubarak” has tasted the intoxicating draught of liberty, -he is in high good humour with himself and with all -around him, he is a slave merely in origin, he has been -adopted into the great family of free men, and with it -he has identified all his interests. Eastern history -preserves instances of the valour and faithfulness of -bondsmen, as the annals of the West are fond of recording -the virtues of dogs. Yet all the more civilised races -have a gird at the negro. In the present day the -Persians and other Asiatics are careful, when bound on -distant or dangerous journeys, to mix white servants -with black slaves; they hold the African to be full of -strange childish caprices, and to be ever at heart a -treacherous and bloodthirsty barbarian. Like the -“bush-negroes” of Surinam, once so dangerous to the -Dutch, the runaway slaves from Zanzibar have formed -a kind of East African Liberia, between Mount Yombo -and the Shimba section of the Eastern Ghauts. They -have endangered the direct caravan-road from Mombasah -to Usumbara; and though trespassing upon the territory -of the Mwasagnombe, a sub-clan of the Wadigo, -and claimed as subjects by Abdullah, the son of Sultan -Kimwere, they have gallantly held their ground. According -to the Arabs there is another servile republic -about Gulwen, near Brava. Travellers speak with -horror of the rudeness, violence, and cruelty of these -self-emancipated slaves; they are said to be more -dangerous even than the Somal, who for wanton mischief -and malice can be compared with nothing but the -naughtiest schoolboys in England.</p> - -<p>The serviles at Zanzibar have played their Arab -masters some notable tricks. Many a severe lord has -perished by the hand of a slave. Several have lost -their eyes by the dagger’s point during sleep. Curious -tales are told of ingenious servile conspiracy. Mohammed -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-375">[375]</span> -bin Sayf, a Zanzibar Arab, remarkable for -household discipline, was brought to grief by Kombo, -his slave, who stole a basket of nutmegs from the -Prince, and, hiding them in his master’s house, denounced -him of theft. Fahl bin Nasr, a travelling -merchant, when passing through Ugogo, nearly lost -his life in consequence of a slave having privily informed -the people that his patroon had been killing -crocodiles and preserving their fat for poison. In both -these cases the slaves were not punished; they had -acted, it was believed, according to the true instincts of -servile nature, and chastisement would have caused -desertion, not improvement.</p> - -<p>As regards the female slaves, the less said about -them, from regard to the sex, the better: they are as -deficient in honour as in honesty, in modesty and -decorum as in grace and beauty. No man, even an -Arab, deems the mother of his children chaste, or -believes in the legitimacy of his progeny till proved.</p> - -<p>Extensive inquiries into the subject lead to a conviction -that it is impossible to offer any average of the -price of slaves. Yet the question is of importance, as -only the immense profit causes men thus to overlook -all considerations of humanity. A few general rules -may be safely given. There is no article, even horse-flesh, -that varies so much in market-value as the human -commodity: the absolute worth is small compared with -the wants of the seller and the requirements and the -means of the purchaser. The extremes range from six -feet of unbleached domestics or a few pounds of grain -in time of famine, to seventy dollars, equal to 15<i>l.</i> -The slaves are cheapest in the interior, on account of -the frequency of desertion: about Unyamwezi they are -dearer, and most expensive in the island of Zanzibar. -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-376">[376]</span> -At the latter place during the last few years they have -doubled in price: according to the Arabs, who regard -the abolition of slavery with feelings of horror, this -increase results from the impediments thrown in the -way by the English; a more probable explanation may -be found in the greater cheapness of money. At Zanzibar -the price of a boy under puberty is from fifteen -to thirty dollars. A youth till the age of fifteen is -worth a little less. A man in the prime of life, from -twenty-five to forty, fetches from thirteen to twenty -dollars; after that age he may be bought from ten to -thirteen. Educated slaves, fitted for the work of factors, -are sold from twenty-five to seventy dollars, and -at fancy prices. The price of females is everywhere -about one-third higher than that of males. At Zanzibar -the ushur or custom-dues vary according to the race of -the slave: the Wahiao, Wangindo, and other serviles -imported from Kilwa, pay one dollar per head, from the -Mrima or maritime regions two dollars, and from Unyamwezi, -Ujiji, and the rest of the interior three dollars. -At the central depôt, Unyanyembe, where slaves -are considered neither cheap nor dear, the value of a -boy ranges between eight and ten doti or double cloths; -a youth from nine to eleven; a man in prime, from five -to ten; and past his prime from four to six. In some -parts of the interior men are dearer than children under -puberty. In the cheapest places, as in Karagwah and -Urori, a boy costs three shukkahs of cloth, and three -fundo or thirty strings of coral beads; a youth from -ten to fifteen fundo; a man in prime from eight to ten; -and no one will purchase an old man. These general -notes must not, however, be applied to particular tribes: -as with ivory and other valuable commodities, the -amount and the description of the circulating medium -vary at almost every march.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-377">[377]</span></p> - -<p>It was asserted by the late Colonel Hamerton, whose -local knowledge was extensive, that the average of -yearly import into the island of Zanzibar was 14,000 -head of slaves, the extremes being 9000 and 20,000. -The loss by mortality and desertion is 30 per cent. per -annum; thus, the whole gang must be renewed between -the third and fourth year.</p> - -<p>By a stretch of power slavery might readily be -abolished in the island of Zanzibar, and in due time, -after the first confusion, the measure would doubtless -be found as profitable as it is now unpalatable to the -landed proprietors, and to the commercial body. A -“sentimental squadron,” like the West African, would -easily, by means of steam, prevent any regular exportation -to the Asiatic continent. But these measures -would deal only with effects, leaving the causes -in full vigour; they would strike at the bole and -branches, the root retaining sufficient vitality to resume -its functions as soon as relieved of the pressure from -without. Neither treaty nor fleet would avail permanently -to arrest the course of slavery upon the seaboard, -much less would it act in the far realms of the -interior. At present the African will not work: the -purchase of predial slaves to till and harvest for him is -the great aim of his life. When a more extensive intercourse -with the maritime regions shall beget wants -which compel the barbarian, now contented with doing -nothing and having nothing, to that individual exertion -and that mutual dependency which render serfdom a -moral impossibility in the more advanced stages of -human society,—when man, now valueless except to -himself, shall become more precious by his labour than -by his sale, in fact an article so expensive that strangers -cannot afford to buy him,—then we may expect to witness -the extinction of the evil. Thus, and thus only -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-378">[378]</span> -can “Rachel, still weeping for her children,” in the -evening of her days, be made happy.</p> - -<p>Meanwhile, the philanthropist, who after sowing the -good seed has sense and patience to consign the gathering -of the crop to posterity, will hear with pleasure -that the extinction of slavery would be hailed with -delight by the great mass throughout the length and -breadth of Eastern Africa. This people, “robbed and -spoiled” by their oppressors, who are legionary, call -themselves “the meat,” and the slave-dealers “the -knife:” they hate and fear their own demon Moloch, -but they lack unanimity to free their necks from his -yoke. Africa still “lies in her blood,” but the progress -of human society, and the straiter bonds which unite -man with man, shall eventually rescue her from her old -pitiable fate.</p> - -<div class="container w40em" id="Illoii-19"> - -<img src="images/ii_illo398.jpg" alt="" /> - -<div class="split5050"> - -<div class="left5050"> -<p class="caption">The Bull-headed Mabruki.</p> -</div> - -<div class="right5050"> -<p class="caption">African standing position.</p> -</div> - -<p class="thinline allclear"> </p> - -</div><!--split5050--> - -</div><!--container--> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-379">[379]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak"><span class="chapno">CONCLUSION.</span></h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p class="noindent">On the 9th February the Battela and the stores required -for our trip arrived at Konduchi from Zanzibar, and the -next day saw us rolling down the coast, with a fair fresh -breeze, towards classic Kilwa, the Quiloa of De Gama, -of Camoens, and of the Portuguese annalists. I shall reserve -an account of this most memorable shore for a future -work devoted especially to the seaboard of Zanzibar—coast -and island:—in the present tale of adventure -the details of a <i>cabotage</i> would be out of place. Suffice -it to say that we lost nearly all our crew by the -cholera, which, after ravaging the eastern coast of -Arabia and Africa, and the islands of Zanzibar and -Pemba, had almost depopulated the southern settlements -on the mainland. We were unable to visit the course -of the great Rufiji River, a counterpart of the Zambezi -in the south, and a water-road which appears destined to -become the highway of nations into Eastern equatorial -Africa. No man dared to take service on board the infected -vessel; the Hindu Banyans, who directed the Copal -trade of the river regions aroused against us the chiefs -of the interior; moreover, the stream was in flood, -overflowing its banks, and its line appeared marked by -heavy purple clouds, which discharged a deluge of rain. -Convinced that the travelling season was finished, I -turned the head of the Battela northwards, and on the -4th March, 1859, after a succession of violent squalls -and pertinacious calms, we landed once more upon the -island of Zanzibar.</p> - -<p>Sick and way-worn I entered the house connected in -memory with an old friend, not without a feeling of -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-380">[380]</span> -sorrow for the change—I was fated to regret it even -more. The excitement of travel was succeeded by -an utter depression of mind and body: even the -labour of talking was too great, and I took refuge -from society in a course of French novels <i>à vingt sous -la pièce</i>.</p> - -<p>Yet I had fallen upon stirring times: the little state, -at the epoch of my return, was in the height of confusion. -His Highness the Sayyid Suwayni, Suzerain of -Maskat, seizing the pretext of a tribute owed to him by -his cadet brother of Zanzibar, had embarked, on the -11th February, 1859, a host of Bedouin brigands upon -four or five square-rigged ships and many Arab craft: -with this power he was preparing a hostile visit to -the island. The Baloch stations on the mainland were -drained of mercenaries, and 7000 muskets, with an -amount of ammunition, which rendered the town dangerous, -were served out to slaves and other ruffians. -Dows from Hadramaut brought down armed adventurers, -who were in the market to fight for the best pay. -The turbulent Harisi chiefs of Zanzibar were terrified -into siding with his Highness the Sayyid Majid by the -influence of H. M. consul, Captain Rigby. But the -representatives of the several Christian powers could -not combine to preserve the peace, and M. Ladislas -Cochet, Consul de France, an uninterested spectator of -the passing events, thought favourably of his Highness -the Sayyid Suwayni’s claim, he believed that the -people if consulted would prefer the rule of the elder -brother, and he could not reconcile his conscience to the -unscrupulous means—the <i>force majeure</i>—which his -opponent brought into the field. The Harisi, therefore, -with their thousands of armed retainers—in a single -review I saw about 2200 of them—preserved an -armed neutrality, which threatened mischief to the -weaker of the rival brothers: trade was paralysed, the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-381">[381]</span> -foreign merchants lost heavily, and no less than eighty -native vessels were still at the end of the season due -from Bombay and the north. To confuse confusion, -several ships collecting negro “emigrants” and “free -labourers,” <i>per fas et nefas</i>, even kidnapping them -when necessary, were reported by the Arab local authorities -to be anchored and to be cruising off the coast of -Zanzibar.</p> - -<p>After a fortnight of excitement and suspense, during -which the wildest rumours flew through the mouths of -men, it was officially reported that H. M.’s steamer -<i>Punjaub</i>, Captain Fullerton, H.M.I.N., commanding, -had, under orders received from the government of -Bombay, met his Highness the Sayyid Suwayni off the -eastern coast of Africa and had persuaded him to -return.</p> - -<p>Congratulations were exchanged, salutes were fired, a -few Buggalows belonging to the enemy’s fleet, which was -said to have been dispersed by a storm, dropped in and -were duly captured, the negroes drank, sang, and -danced for a consecutive week, and with the least delay -armed men poured in crowded boats from the island -towards their several stations on the mainland. But -the blow had been struck, the commercial prosperity of -Zanzibar could not be retrieved during the brief -remnant of the season, and the impression that a renewal -of the attempt would at no distant time ensure -similar disasters seemed to be uppermost in every man’s -mind.</p> - -<p>His Highness the Sayyid Majid had honoured me -with an expression of desire that I should remain -until the expected hostilities might be brought to a -close. I did so willingly in gratitude to a prince -to whose good-will my success was mainly indebted. -But the consulate was no longer what it was before. -I felt myself too conversant with local politics, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-382">[382]</span> -and too well aware of what was going on to be a -pleasant companion to its new tenant. At last, on -the 15th March, when concluding my accounts with -Ladha Damha, the collector of customs at Zanzibar, -that official requested me, with the usual mystery, to -be the bearer of despatches, privately addressed by his -prince, to the home government. I could easily -guess what they contained. Unwilling, however, to -undertake such a duty when living at the consulate, -and seeing how totally opposed to official <i>convenance</i> -such a procedure was, I frankly stated my objections -to Ladha Damha, and repeated the conversation to -Captain Rigby. As may be imagined, this little event -did not diminish his desire to see me depart.</p> - -<p>Still I was unwilling to leave the field of my labours -while so much remained to be done. As my health -appeared gradually to return under the influence of -repose and comparative comfort, I would willingly -have delayed at the island till the answer to an application -for leave of absence, and to a request for -additional funds could be received from the Government -of Bombay and the Royal Geographical Society. -But the evident anxiety of my host to disembarrass -himself of his guest, and the nervous impatience of my -companion—who could not endure the thought of -losing an hour—compelled me, sorely against my wish, -to abandon my intentions.</p> - -<p>Said bin Salim, the Ras Kafilah, called twice or thrice -at the consulate. I refused, however, to see him, and -explained the reason to Captain Rigby. That gentleman -agreed with me at the time that the Arab had -been more than sufficiently rewarded by the sum -advanced to him by Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton: but—perhaps -he remembers the cognomen by which he was -known in days of yore amongst his juvenile <i>confrères</i> -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-383">[383]</span> -at Addiscombe?—he has since thought proper to change -his mind. The Jemadar and the Baloch attended me -to the doorway of the prince’s darbar: I would not -introduce them to their master or to the consul, as -such introduction would have argued myself satisfied -with their conduct, nor would I recommend them for -promotion or reward. Ladha Damha put in a faint -claim for salary due to the sons of Ramji; but when -informed of the facts of the case he at once withdrew -it, and I heard no more of it at Zanzibar. As regards -the propriety of these severe but equitable measures, -my companion was, I believe, at that time of the same -opinion as myself: perhaps Captain Speke’s prospect -of a return to East Africa, and of undertaking a similar -exploration, have caused him since that epoch to think, -and to think that he then thought, otherwise.</p> - -<p>The report of the success of the <i>Punjaub’s</i> mission -left me at liberty to depart. With a grateful heart -I bade adieu to a prince whose kindness and personal -courtesy will long dwell in my memory, and who at -the parting interview had expressed a hope to see me -again, and had offered me a passage homeward in one -of his ships-of-war. At the time, however, a clipper-built -barque, the <i>Dragon of Salem</i>, Captain M‘Farlane -commanding, was discharging cargo in the harbour, -preparatory to sailing with the S.W. monsoon for -Aden. The captain consented to take us on board: -Captain Rigby, however, finding his boat too crowded, -was compelled to omit accompanying us—a little mark -of civility not unusual in the East. His place, however, -was well filled up by Seedy Mubarak Bombay, -whose honest face appeared at that moment, by contrast, -peculiarly attractive.</p> - -<p>On the 22nd March, 1859, the clove-shrubs and the -cocoa-trees of Zanzibar again faded from my eyes. After -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-384">[384]</span> -crossing and re-crossing three times the tedious line, -we found ourselves anchored, on the 16th April, near -the ill-omened black walls of the Aden crater.</p> - -<p>The crisis of my African sufferings had taken place -during my voyage upon the Tanganyika Lake: the -fever, however, still clung to me like the shirt of -Nessus. Mr. Apothecary Frost, of Zanzibar, had advised -a temporary return to Europe: Dr. Steinhaeuser, -the civil surgeon, Aden, also recommended a lengthened -period of rest. I bade adieu to the coal-hole of the -East on the 28th April, 1859, and in due time greeted -with becoming heartiness the shores of my native -land.</p> - -<p class="center highline6">FINIS CORONAT OPUS!</p> - -<div class="container w40em" id="Illoii-20"> - -<img src="images/ii_illo404.jpg" alt="" /> - -<p class="caption">The Elephant Rock (Ακρωτηριον Ελεφας, Periplus -<span class="smcap">II.</span> راس الفيل), seen from fifteen -miles at sea, direction S.W.</p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="container" id="Illoii-21"> - -<img src="images/ii_illo407.jpg" alt="" /> - -<p class="center fsize60"><i>London, Longman & Co.</i> -<span class="righttext"><i>Engraved by Edw<sup>d</sup>. Weller, Red Lion Square.</i></span></p> - -<div class="illotext w20em"> - -<p class="center highline2"><span class="sstype">MAP OF THE ROUTES</span><br /> -<span class="fsize90">between</span><br /> -<span class="smcap">ZANZIBAR and the GREAT LAKES</span><br /> -<span class="fsize90 sstype">IN</span><br /> -<span class="gesp1"><b>EASTERN AFRICA</b></span><br /> -<span class="fsize90">in 1857, 1858 & 1859,<br /> -by<br /> -R. F. Burton</span></p> - -</div><!--illotext--> - -<p class="largeillo"><a href="images/ii_illo407lg.jpg">Larger map</a></p> - -</div><!--container--> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<h2 class="apps nobreak">APPENDICES.</h2> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-387">[387]</span></p> - -<h3 class="nobreak"><span class="appno">APPENDIX I.</span><br /> -<span class="appname">COMMERCE, IMPORTS AND EXPORTS.</span></h3> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<p class="noindent">Commerce has for ages been a necessity to the East African, -who cannot be contented without his clothing and his ornaments, -which he receives in barter for the superfluity of his -country. Against its development, however, serious obstacles -have hitherto interposed. On the seaboard and in the island -the Banyans, by monopolizing the import traffic, do injury to -the internal trade. In the interior the Wasawahili excite, with -all the animosity of competition, the barbarians against Arab -interlopers, upon the same sordid and short-sighted principle -that the latter display when opposing the ingress of Europeans. -Finally, the Arabs, according to their own confession, -have by rapacity and imprudence impoverished the people without -enriching themselves. Their habit of sending fundi on -trading trips is, as has been explained, most prejudicial both to -seller and buyer; the prices of provisions as well as of merchandise -increase almost visibly; and though the evil might be -remedied by a little combination, solidarity of interests being -unknown, that little is nowhere found. All, Banyans, Wasawahili, -and Arabs, like semi-civilised people generally, abhor -and oppose a free trade, which they declare would be as injurious -to themselves as doubtless advantageous to the country. -Here, as in Europe, the battle of protection has still to be -fought; and here, unlike Europe, the first step towards civilisation, -namely, the facility of intercourse between the interior -and the coast, has yet to be created.</p> - -<p>The principal imports into East Africa are domestics and -piece goods, plain and unbleached cotton cloths, beads, and brass -wire. The minor items for the native population are prints, -coloured cloths Indian and Arabian, broadcloth, calicos, caps, -ironware, knives and needles, iron and copper wires for ornaments, -and in some regions trinkets and ammunition. A small -trade, chiefly confined to the Arabs, is done in provisions, spices, -drugs, and other luxuries.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-388">[388]</span></p> - -<p>The people of East Africa when first visited were satisfied -with the worst and flimsiest kaniki or indigo-dyed Indian cotton. -This they presently gave up for the “merkani,” American -“domestics,” or unbleached shirting and sheeting, which now -supplies the markets from Abyssinia to the Mozambique. But -the wild men are losing predilection for a stuff which is neither -comfortable nor durable, and in many regions the tribes, satisfied -with goat-skins and tree-barks, prefer to invest their capital in -the more attractive and durable beads and wire. It would evidently -be advantageous if England or her Indian colonies would -manufacture an article better suited to the wants of the country -than that at present in general use; but, under existing circumstances, -there is little probability of this being done.</p> - -<p>The “domestics” from the mills near Salem, Lawrence, -Manchester, and others, called in the island of Zanzibar wilaiti -(“foreign”), or khami (the “raw”), is known throughout the -inner country as “merkani” or American. These unbleached -cottons are of two kinds: the wilaiti mpana (broad) or sheeting, -sold in pieces about 30 yards long and 36 to 38 inches broad, -and the wilaiti kabibu (narrow) or shirting, of the same length -but less in breadth, from 32 to 34 inches. In the different -mills the lengths vary, the extremes being 24 and 36 yards. -The cloth measures in use throughout the country are the -<span class="nowrap">following:—</span></p> - -<table class="measures" summary="Measures"> - -<tr> -<td class="text">2<sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>2</sub> Fitr (short spans)</td> -<td class="equals">=</td> -<td class="text">1 Mukono, Ziraá, or cubit.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="text">2 Mikono, or Ziraá (cubits)</td> -<td class="equals">=</td> -<td class="text">1 Half-Shukkah (<i>i.e.</i> 3 feet of domestics).</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="text">2 Half-Shukkah</td> -<td class="equals">=</td> -<td class="text">1 Shukkah, Mwenda, Upande, or Lupande, the Portuguese Braça (<i>i.e.</i> 6 feet of domestics).</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="text">2 Shukkahs</td> -<td class="equals">=</td> -<td class="text">1 Tobe (Ar. Saub), Doti, Unguo ya ku shona (washing cloth), or simply Unguo (12 ft.)</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="text">2 Doti</td> -<td class="equals">=</td> -<td class="text">1 Takah.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="text">7 to 11 Doti</td> -<td class="equals">=</td> -<td class="text">1 Jurah or Gorah, the piece.</td> -</tr> - -</table> - -<p>The fitr or short span is from the extended end of the forefinger -to the thumb; the shibr or long span is from the thumb -to the little finger; of these, two go to that primitive measure -the cubit or elbow length. Two cubits in long measure compose -the wár or yard, and two wár the ba’a or fathom.</p> - -<p>The price of domestics greatly varies in dear years and cheap -years. At Zanzibar it sometimes falls to 2 dols. per gorah or -piece, and it often rises to 2·75 dols. When the dollar is -alluded to, the Maria Theresa crown is always meant. The -price in Bombay is from 213 to 215 Co.’s rs. per cent. At -Zanzibar the crown is divided like the rupee into 16 annas, and -each anna into 9 or 8 pice; of these the full number is 128 to -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-389">[389]</span> -the dollar, but it is subject to incessant fluctuations. Merchants -usually keep accounts in dollars and cents. The Arabs -divide the dollar as <span class="nowrap">follows:—</span></p> - -<table class="measures" summary="Measures"> - -<tr> -<td class="text">4 Ruba baisah (the “pie”)</td> -<td class="equals">=</td> -<td class="text">Baisah (in the plur. Biyas), the Indian Paisa.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="text">8 Biyas</td> -<td class="equals">=</td> -<td class="text">1 Anna.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="text">2 Annas, or 16 Pice</td> -<td class="equals">=</td> -<td class="text">1 Tumun or eighth.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="text">4 Annas, or 32 Pice, or 25 Cents</td> -<td class="equals">=</td> -<td class="text">1 Ruba, Rubo or Quarter-dollar, the Indian Paola.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="text">2 Ruba, or 64 Pice, or 50 Cents</td> -<td class="equals">=</td> -<td class="text">1 Nusu or Half-dollar.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="text">2 Nusu</td> -<td class="equals">=</td> -<td class="text">1 Dollar.</td> -</tr> - -</table> - -<p>The Spanish or pillar dollar is called by the Arabs abu madfa, -and by the Wasawahili riyal mazinga (the “cannon dollar”). -In the East generally it is worth from 6 to 8 per cent. more than -the Maria Theresa, but at Zanzibar, not being a legal tender, -the value is unfixed. The only subdivision of this coin generally -known is the seringe, pistoline, or “small quarter dollar,” -which is worth only 10 pice and 2 pies, whereas the ruba, or -quarter of the Maria Theresa, is 32 pice. The French 5-franc -piece, raised in value by a somewhat arbitrary process from 114 -to 110 per 100 “piastres d’Espagne” by M. Guillain in 1846, -has no currency, though the Banyans attempt to pass them off -upon strangers at 108 for 100 Maria Theresas. In selling, the -price ranges from 15 to 22 shukkahs, each of which, assuming -the dollar or German crown to be worth 4<i>s.</i> 2<i>d.</i>, will be worth -upon the island from 6<i>d.</i> to 8<i>d.</i> The shukkah is, as has been -said, the shilling and florin of East Africa, and it is assuredly -the worst circulating medium ever invented by mankind. The -progress of its value as it recedes from the seaboard, and other -details concerning it, which may be useful to future travellers, -have been treated of in the preceding pages.</p> - -<p>First in importance amongst the cloths is the kaniki or -kiniki; its names and measures are made to differ by the traders -according to the fashion of semi-civilised people, who seek -in confusion and intricacy facilities for fraud and chicanery. -The popular divisions <span class="nowrap">are—</span></p> - -<table class="measures" summary="Measures"> - -<tr> -<td class="text">4 Mikono, Ziraá, or cubits</td> -<td class="equals">=</td> -<td class="text">1 Shukkah.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="text">2 Shukkah</td> -<td class="equals">=</td> -<td class="text">1 Doti or Tobe.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="text">2 Doti</td> -<td class="equals">=</td> -<td class="text">1 Jurah, Gorah, or Takah.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="text">2 Takah</td> -<td class="equals">=</td> -<td class="text">1 Korjah, Kori, or score.</td> -</tr> - -</table> - -<p>Of this indigo-dyed cotton there are three kinds: the best, -which is close and neatly made, is seldom exported from Zanzibar. -The gorah or piece of 16 cubits, 45 inches in breadth, -is worth about 1 dollar. The common variety, 40 inches broad, -supplied to the markets of the interior, costs about half that -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-390">[390]</span> -sum; and the worst kind, which averages in breadth 36 inches, -represents a little less. The value of the korjah or score fluctuates -between 8 and 13 dollars. Assuming, therefore, the -average at 10 dollars, and the number of shukkahs contained in -the gorah at 80, the price of each will represent 6<i>d.</i> Thus it -is little inferior in price to the merkani or domestics when purchased -upon the seaboard: its progress of value in the interior, -however, is by no means in proportion, and by some tribes it is -wholly rejected.</p> - -<p>The lucrative bead trade of Zanzibar is now almost entirely -in the hands of the Banyan capitalists, who, by buying up ships’ -cargoes, establish their own prices, and produce all the inconveniences -of a monopoly. In laying in a stock the traveller must -not trust himself to these men, who seize the opportunity of -palming off the waste and refuse of their warehouses: he is advised -to ascertain from respectable Arab merchants, on their -return from the interior, the varieties requisite on the line of -march. Any neglect in choosing beads, besides causing daily -inconvenience, might arrest an expedition on the very threshold -of success: towards the end of these long African journeys, -when the real work of exploration commences, want of outfit -tells fatally. The bead-monopolisers of Zanzibar supplied the -East African expedition with no less than nine men’s loads of -the cheapest white and black beads, some of which were thrown -away, as no man would accept them at a gift. Finally, the -utmost economy must be exercised in beads: apparently exhaustless, -a large store goes but a little way: the minor purchases -of a European would average 10 strings or necklaces -per diem, and thus a man’s load rarely outlasts the fifth week.</p> - -<p>Beads, called by the Arabs kharaz, and by the Wasawahili -ushanga, are yearly imported into East Africa by the ton—in -quantities which excite the traveller’s surprise that so little is -seen of them. For centuries there has been a regular supply -of these ornaments; load after load has been absorbed; but -although they are by no means the most perishable of substances, -and though the people, like the Indians, carry their -wealth upon their persons, not a third of the population wears -any considerable quantity. There are about 400 current varieties, -of which each has its peculiar name, value, and place of -preference; yet, being fabricated at a distance from the spot, -they lack the perpetual change necessary to render them -thoroughly attractive. In Urori and Ubena, antiquated marts, -now nearly neglected, there are varieties highly prized by the -people: these might be imitated with advantage.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-391">[391]</span></p> - -<p>For trading purposes a number of different kinds must be -laid in,—for travellers, the coral or scarlet, the pink porcelain, -and the large blue glass bead, are more useful than other -colours. Yet in places even the expensive coral bead has been -refused.</p> - -<p>Beads are sold in Zanzibar island by the following weights:</p> - -<table class="measures" summary="Measures"> - -<tr> -<td class="text">16 Wakiyyah (ounces, each = 1 dollar in weight)</td> -<td class="equals">=</td> -<td class="text">1 Ratl (or pound; in the plural, Artál).</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="text">3 Ratl, or 48 Wakiyyah</td> -<td class="equals">=</td> -<td class="text">1 Man (Maund).</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="text">12 Amnan (Maunds)</td> -<td class="equals">=</td> -<td class="text">1 Frasilah (35 to 36 pounds).</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="text">60 Artál (pounds)</td> -<td class="equals">=</td> -<td class="text">1 Frasilah.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="text">20 to 22 Farásilah (according to the article purchased)</td> -<td class="equals">=</td> -<td class="text">1 Kandi (Candy).</td> -</tr> - -</table> - -<p>The Zanzibar lb. is the current English avoirdupois. The -Arabs use a ratl without standard, except that it should be -equal to sixteen Maria Theresa dollars. According to M. -Guillain, it is four grammes (each 22·966 grs. avoir.) less than -the English lb., and when reduced to seven grammes it is considered -under weight. The “man” or maund is the general -measure: there are, however, three varieties. The “man” of -Zanzibar consists of three ratl, that of Maskat contains nine, -and that of Oman generally 0·25 less than the Zanzibar maund. -The frasilah (in the plur. farásilah) may roughly be assumed as -one-third of the cwt.: the word probably gave rise to the -English coffee-weight called a “frail.”</p> - -<p>The measures of beads are as complicated and arbitrary as -those of cloth. The following are the terms known throughout -the interior, but generally unintelligible at Zanzibar, where this -merchandise is sold by weight:</p> - -<table class="measures" summary="Measures"> - -<tr> -<td class="text">4 Bitil (each a single length from index tip to wrist)</td> -<td class="equals">=</td> -<td class="text">1 Khete.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="text">10 Khete (each a doubled length round the throat, or round the thumb, to the elbow-bone)</td> -<td class="equals">=</td> -<td class="text">1 Fundo (<i>i.e.</i> a “knot.”)</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="text">10 Fundo (in the plural, Mafundo)</td> -<td class="equals">=</td> -<td class="text">1 Ugoyye, or Ugoe.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="text">10 Ugoyye (or 60 Fundo)</td> -<td class="equals">=</td> -<td class="text">1 Miranga, or Gana.</td> -</tr> - -</table> - -<p>Of these bead measures there are local complications. In -the central regions, for instance, the khete is of half size, and -the fundo consists of five, not of ten khete.</p> - -<p>Beads are purchased for the monopolisers of Zanzibar unstrung, -and before entering the country it is necessary to -measure and prepare the lengths for barter. The string, called -“ut’hembwe” (in the plural “t’hembwe”), is generally made -of palm-fibre, and much depends for successful selling, especially -in the larger kinds of beads, upon the regularity and attractiveness -of the line. It will be remembered that beads in East -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-392">[392]</span> -Africa represent the copper and smaller silver coins of -European countries; it is, however, impossible to reduce the -khete, the length most used in purchases, to any average: it -varies from a halfpenny to three-pence. The average value of -the khete in Zanzibar coin is three pice, and about 100 khete -are included in the man or maund. The traveller will find -the bitil used as our farthing, the khete is the penny, the -shukkah kaniki is the sixpence and shilling, the shukkah -merkani and the fundo represent the halfcrown and crown, -whilst the Barsati cloth, the kitindi or coil bracelet, and the -larger measures of beads, form the gold money. The following -varieties are imported in extensive outfits. Nos. 1, 2, and 3, -are the expensive kinds; Nos. 4, 5, and 6, are in local demand, -cheap in the maritime, and valuable in the central regions, and -the rest are the more ordinary sorts. All those that are round -and pierced are called indifferently by the Arabs madruji, or -the “drilled.”</p> - -<p>1. Samsam (Ar.) sámesáme (Kis.), kimara-p’hamba (food-finishers), -joho (scarlet cloth), and kifungá-mgi (town-breakers, -because the women are mad for them), are the various names -for the small coral bead, a scarlet enamelled upon a white -ground. They are known at Zanzibar as kharaz-kartasi—paper -beads—because they are sent into the country ready -strung, and packed in paper parcels, which ought to weigh 4 -pounds each, but are generally found to vary from 8 to 10 -fundo or knots. Of this bead there are 15 several sizes, and -the value of the frasilah is from 13 to 16 dollars at Zanzibar. -In Unyamwezi, where the sámesáme is in greatest -demand, one fundo is equivalent to 1 shukkah merkani, and -6 khete to the shukkah kaniki.</p> - -<p>2. Next in demand to the sámesáme, throughout the country, -except at Ujiji, where they lose half their value, are the pink -porcelain, called gulabi (the rosy), or máguru lá nzige (locust’s -feet). The price in Zanzibar varies from 12 to 15 dollars per -frasilah.</p> - -<p>3. The blue porcelain, called in Venice ajerino, and in East -Africa langiyo or murtutu (blue vitriol) is of three several -sizes, and the best is of the lightest colour. The larger variety, -called langiyo mkuba, fetches, at Zanzibar, from 6 to 12 -dollars per frasilah, and the p’heke, or smaller, from 7 to 9 -dollars. In Usagara and Unyamwezi, where from 3 to 4 -fundo are equivalent to the shukkah merkani, and 1 to 2 to the -shukkah kaniki, it is used for minor purchases, where the -sámesáme would be too valuable. It is little prized in other -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-393">[393]</span> -parts, and between Unyamwezi and Ujiji it falls to the low level -of the white porcelain.</p> - -<p>4. A local variety, current from Msene to the Tanganyika -Lake, where, in the heavier dealings, as the purchase of slaves -and ivory, a few strings are always required to cap the bargain, -is called mzizima, mtunda, balghami, and jelabi, the ringel -perle of Germany. It is a large flat bead of glass; the khete -contains about 150, and each item acts as a copper coin. The -mzizima is of two varieties; the more common is a dark blue, -the other is of a whitish and opaline tint. At Zanzibar the -frasilah costs from 7 to 9 dollars. In Unyamwezi 3 fundo are -equivalent to 1 shukkah merkani, and 1 fundo to 1 shukkah -kaniki.</p> - -<p>5. Another local variety is the balghami mkuba, popularly -called sungomaji, a bead made at Nuremberg (?). It is a porcelain, -about the size of a pigeon’s egg, and of two colours, -white and light blue. The sungomaji, attached to a thin cord -or twine, is worn singly or in numbers as an ornament round -the neck, and the people complain that the polish soon wears -off. At Zanzibar the price per 1000 is from 15 to 20 dollars, -but it is expected to decline to 10 dollars. This bead is useful -in purchasing ivory in Ugogo and Unyamwezi, and in hiring -boats at Ujiji: its relative value to cloth is 19 per shukkah -merkani, and 15 per shukkah kaniki.</p> - -<p>6. The sofi, called in Italian cannettone, resembles bits of -broken pipe-stems, about two-thirds of an inch in length. It is -of various colours, white, brick-red, and black. Each bead is -termed masaro, and is used like pice in India: of these the -khete contains from 55 to 60. The price varies, at Zanzibar, -from 2 to 3 dollars per frasilah; in the interior, however, the -value greatly increases, on account of insufficient importation. -This bead, in 1858, was in great demand throughout Usagara, -Unyamwezi, and the western regions, where it was as valuable -as the sámesáme. Having neglected to lay in a store at -Zanzibar, the East African Expedition was compelled to exchange -cloth for it at Msene and Ujiji, giving 1 shukkah -merkani for 30 to 35 khete, and 1 shukkah kaniki for 15 to -25. In Ujiji, however, many of the purchases were rejected -because the bits had become small by wear, or had been -chipped off by use.</p> - -<p>7. The staple of commerce is a coarse porcelain bead, of -various colours, known in Zanzibar by the generic name of -háfizi. There are three principal kinds. The khanyera or -ushanga waupa (white beads) are common throughout the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-394">[394]</span> -country. The average value, at Zanzibar, is 6 dollars per -frasilah: in Unyamwezi, 4 fundo were equivalent to the -shukkah merkani, and 2 to 3 to the kaniki; but the people, -glutted with this bead (as many as 20,000 strings were supplied -to the East African Expedition by the Banyans of Zanzibar), -preferred 1 khete of sámesáme to 3 of khanyera. The kidunduguru -is a dull brick-red bead, worth at Zanzibar from 5 to 7 -dollars per frasilah, but little prized in the interior, where it is -derisively termed khanyera ya mk’hundu. Another red variety -of háfizi is called merkani: it is finely made to resemble the -sámesáme, and costs from 7 to 11 dollars per frasilah. Of this -bead there are four several subdivisions. The uzanzawírá or -samuli (ghee-coloured) is a bright yellow porcelain worth, at -Zanzibar, from 7 to 9 dollars per frasilah. It is in demand -throughout Chhaga and the Masai country, but is rarely seen -on the central line.</p> - -<p>8. The sukoli are orange-coloured or rhubarb-tinted porcelain, -which average, at Zanzibar, from 7 to 9 dollars. They are prized -in Usagara and Ugogo, but are little worn in other places.</p> - -<p>9. The nílí (green), or ukutí wa mnazi (coco-leaves), are little -beads of transparent green glass; they are of three sizes, the -smallest of which is called kíkítí. The Zanzibar price is from -6 to 11 dollars. In Ujiji they are highly valued, and are readily -taken in small quantities throughout the central line.</p> - -<p>10. The ghubari (dust-coloured), or nya kifu (?) is a small -dove-coloured bead, costing, in Zanzibar, from 7 or 8 dollars. -It is used in Uzaramo, but its dulness of aspect prevents it -being a favourite.</p> - -<p>11. The lungenya or lak’hio is a coarse red porcelain, valued -at 5 to 6 dollars in Zanzibar, and now principally exported -to Uruwwa and the innermost regions of Central Africa.</p> - -<p>12. The bubu (ububu?), also called ukumwi and ushanga ya -vipande, are black Venetians, dull dark porcelain, ranging, at -Zanzibar, from 5 to 7 dollars. They are of fourteen sizes, -large, medium, and small; the latter are the most valued. These -beads are taken by the Wazaramo. In East Usagara and -Unyamwezi they are called khuni or firewood, nor will they be -received in barter except when they excite a temporary caprice.</p> - -<p>The other beads, occasionally met with, are the sereketi, ovals -of white or garnet-red, prized in Khutu; choroko or mágiyo, -dull green porcelains; undriyo maupe (?), mauve-coloured, round -or oval; undriyo mausi (?), dark lavender; asmani, sky-coloured -glass; and pusange, blue Bohemian glass beads, cut into facets. -The people of the coast also patronise a variety of large fancy -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-395">[395]</span> -articles, flowered, shelled, and otherwise ornamented; these, -however, rarely find their way into the interior.</p> - -<p>After piece goods and beads, the principal articles of traffic, -especially on the northern lines and the western portion of the -central route, are masango (in the singular sango), or brass -wires, called by the Arabs hajúlah. Nos. 4 or 5 are preferred. -They are purchased in Zanzibar, when cheap, for 12 dollars, -and when dear for 16 dollars per frasilah. When imported -up country the frasilah is divided into three or four large coils, -called by the Arabs daur, and by the Africans khata, for the -convenience of attachment to the banghy-pole. Arrived at -Unyanyembe they are converted by artizans into the kitindi, or -coil-bracelets, described in the preceding pages. Each daur -forms two or three of these bulky ornaments, of which there are -about 11 to the frasilah, and the weight is thus upwards of three -pounds. The charge for the cutting, cleaning, and twisting -into shape is about 1 doti of domestics for 50 kitindis. The -value of the kitindi, throughout Unyamwezi, in 1858, was 1 -doti merkani; at Ujiji, where they are in demand for slaves and -ivory, the price was doubled. Thus, the kitindi, worth one -dollar each—when cheap, nine are bought for ten dollars—in -Zanzibar, rises to five dollars in the lake regions. Kitindi were -formerly made of copper wire; it has fallen into disuse on account -of its expense,—at Zanzibar from 15 to 20 dollars per -frasilah. Large iron wires, called senyenge, are confined to -Ugogo and the northern countries inhabited by the Wamasai. -The East Africans have learned to draw fine wire, which they -call uzi wa shaba (brass thread); they also import from the coast -Nos. 22 to 25, and employ them for a variety of decorative purposes, -which have already been alluded to. The average price -of this small wire at Zanzibar is 12 dollars per frasilah. As -has been mentioned, sat or zinc, called by the Africans bati -(tin), is imported by the Wajiji.</p> - -<p>The principal of the minor items are coloured cloths, called by -the people “cloths with names:” of these, many kinds are -imported by every caravan. In some regions, Ugogo for instance, -the people will not sell their goats and more valuable provisions -for plain piece-goods; their gross and gaudy tastes lead -them to despise sober and uniform colours. The sultans invariably -demand for themselves and their wives showy goods, and -complete their honga or blackmail with domestics and indigo-dyed -cottons, which they divide amongst their followers. Often, too, -a bit of scarlet broadcloth, thrown in at the end of a lengthened -haggle, opens a road and renders impossibilities possible.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-396">[396]</span></p> - -<p>The coloured cloths may be divided into three kinds,—woollens, -cottons, and silks mixed with cotton. Of the former, the principal -varieties now imported are Joho or broadcloth; of the second, -beginning with the cheapest, are Barsati, Dabwani, Jamdani, -Bandira, Shít (chintz), Khuzarangi, Ukaya, Sohari, Shali, -Taujiri, Msutu, Kikoi, and Shazar or Mukunguru; the mixed -and most expensive varieties are the Subai, Dewli, Sabuni, Khesi, -and Masnafu. Travelling Arabs usually take a piece of baftah -or white calico as kafan or shrouds for themselves or their companions -in case of accidents. At Zanzibar the value of a piece -of 24 yds. is 1 dollar 25 cents. Blankets were at first imported -by the Arabs, but being unsuited to the climate and to the -habits of the people they soon became a drug in the market.</p> - -<p>Joho (a corruption of the Arabic Johh) is a coarse article, either -blue or scarlet. As a rule, even Asiatics ignore the value of -broadcloth, estimating it, as they do guns and watches, by the -shine of the exterior: the African looks only at the length of the -pile and the depth of the tint. The Zanzibar valuation of the -cheap English article is usually 50 cents (2<i>s.</i> 1<i>d.</i>) per yard; in -the interior rising rapidly through double and treble to four -times that price, it becomes a present for a prince. At Ujiji -and other great ivory-marts there is a demand for this article, -blue as well as red; it is worn, like the shukkah merkani, round -the loins by men and round the bosom by women, who, therefore, -require a tobe or double length. At Unyanyembe there -are generally pauper Arabs or Wasawahili artisans who can -fashion the merchants’ supplies into the kizbao or waistcoats -affected by the African chiefs in imitation of their more civilised -visitors.</p> - -<p>Of the second division the cheapest is the Barsati, called by -the Africans kitambi; it is a blue cotton cloth, with a broad red -stripe extending along one quarter of the depth, the other three-quarters -being dark blue; the red is either of European or Cutch -dye. The former is preferred upon the coast for the purchase of -copal. Of this Indian stuff there are three kinds, varying in size, -colour, and quality; the cheapest is worth at Zanzibar (where, -however, like dabwani, it is usually sold by the gorah of two uzar -or loin-cloths) from 5 to 7 dollars per score; the second -10 dollars 50 cents; and the best 14 to 15 dollars. The -barsati in the interior represents the doti or tobe of Merkani. -On the coast it is a favourite article of wear with the -poorer freemen, slaves, and women. Beyond the maritime -regions the chiefs will often refuse a barsati, if of small dimensions -and flimsy texture. Formerly, the barsati was made of -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-397">[397]</span> -silk, and cost 7 dollars per loin-cloth. Of late years the -Wanyamwezi have taken into favour the barsati or kitambi -banyani; it is a thin white long cloth, called in Bombay kora -(Corah, or cotton piece-goods), with a narrow reddish border of -madder or other dye stamped in India or at Zanzibar. The piece -of 39 yards, which is divided into 20 shukkah, costs at Bombay -4·50 Co.’s rs.; at Zanzibar 2 dollars 50 cents; and the price of -printing the edge is 1 dollar 75 cents.</p> - -<p>The dabwani is a kind of small blue and white check made at -Maskat; one fourth of its breadth is a red stripe, edged with -white and yellow. This stuff, which from its peculiar stiffening -of gum appears rather like grass-cloth than cotton, is of three -kinds: the cheapest, dyed with Cutch colours, is much used in -the far interior; it costs at Zanzibar 12 dols. 50 cents per score -of pieces, each two and a half yards long;—the medium quality, -employed in the copal trade of the coast, is stained with European -dye, and superior in work; the score of pieces, each 3 yards -long, costs 30 dols.;—and the best, which is almost confined to -the island of Zanzibar, ranges from 40 to 45 dols. per kori. The -dabwani is considered in the interior nearly double the value of -the barsati, and it is rarely rejected unless stained or injured.</p> - -<p>The jamdani is a sprigged or worked muslin imported from -India: though much prized for turbans by the dignitaries of the -maritime races, it is rarely carried far up the country. At -Zanzibar the price of 10 yards is 1 dol., and the piece of 20 -lengths, each sufficient for a turban, may be purchased for 15 dols.</p> - -<p>The bandira (flag stuff) is a red cotton bunting imported from -Bombay. It is prized in the interior by women. At Zanzibar -the price of this stuff greatly varies; when cheap the piece of -28 yards may be obtained for 2 dols. 50 cents, when dear it -rises to 3 dols. 50 cents. It is sold by gorah of 7<sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>2</sub> shukkahs.</p> - -<p>Shít, or chintz, is of many different kinds. The common -English is a red cotton, striped yellow and dark green; it fetches -from 1 dol. 50 cents to 2 dols. per piece of 28 yards, and is little -prized in the interior. Those preferred, especially in Unyamwezi -and Ujiji, are the French and Hamburg; the former is worth at -Zanzibar from 4 dols. 50 cents per piece of 35 yards, to 5 dols. -50 cents per gorah of 10 shukkahs, and the latter from 5 dols. to -5 dols. 50 cents. The most expensive is the “ajemi,” that used -by the Persians as lining for their lambswool caps; the price is -from 50 cents to 1 dol. per yard, which renders it a scarce article -even in Zanzibar island.</p> - -<p>The khuzarangi, a European cotton dyed a reddish nankeen, -with pomegranate rind and other colouring matters, at Maskat, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-398">[398]</span> -is almost confined to the Arabs, who make of it their normal -garment, the long and sleeved shirt called el dishdashah, or in -Kisawahili khanzu. It is the test of foreign respectability and -decorum when appearing amongst the half-clad African races, -and the poorest of pedlars will always carry with him one of -these nightgown-like robes. The price of the ready-made dishdashah -ranges from 50 cents to 2 dols. 50 cents, and the uncut -piece of 16 yards costs from 2 dols. to 2 dols. 50 cents.</p> - -<p>The ukaya somewhat resembles the kaniki, but it is finer and -thinner. This jaconnet, manufactured in Europe and dyed in -Bombay, is much used by female slaves and concubines as head -veils. The price of the piece of 20 yards, when of inferior -quality, is 2 dollars 50 cents; it ranges as high as 12 dollars.</p> - -<p>The sohari, or ridia, made at Maskat, is a blue and white -check with a red border about 5 inches broad, with smaller -stripes of red, blue, and yellow; the ends of the piece are checks -of a larger pattern, with red introduced. There are many -varieties of this cloth, which, considered as superior to the -dabwani as the latter is superior to the barsati, forms an acceptable -present to a chief. The cheapest kind, much used in -Unyamwezi, costs 16 dollars 25 cents per kori, or score. The -higher sorts, of which however only 1 to 40 of the inferior is -imported into the country, ranges from 22 to 30 dollars.</p> - -<p>The shali, a corruption of the Indian shal (shawl), is a common -English imitation shawl pattern of the poorest cotton. Bright -yellow or red grounds, with the pear pattern and similar ornaments, -are much prized by the chiefs of Unyamwezi. The price -of the kori, or score, is 25 dollars.</p> - -<p>The taujiri (from the Indian taujír burá) is a dark blue cotton -stuff, with a gaudy border of madder-red or tumeric-yellow, the -former colour preferred by the Wahiao, the latter by the Wanyamwezi. -The price per score varies from 8 to 17 dollars.</p> - -<p>The msutu is a European cotton dyed at Surat, indigo blue -upon a madder-red ground, spotted with white. This print is -much worn by Arab and Wasawahili women as a nightdress -and morning wrapper; in the interior it becomes a robe of ceremony. -At Zanzibar the piece of 20 lengths, each 2·25 yards -long and 40 inches broad (two breadths being sown together), -costs 19 dollars. The kisutu, an inferior variety, fetches, per -kori of pieces 2·50 yards long, 13 dollars.</p> - -<p>The kikoi is a white cotton, made at Surat, coarse and thick, -with a broad border of parallel stripes, red, yellow, and indigo -blue: per kori of pieces 2 yards long, and sewn in double -breadths, the price is 5 dollars. A superior variety is made -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-399">[399]</span> -principally for the use of women, with a silk border, which costs -from 1 to 4 dollars.</p> - -<p>The shazar, called throughout the interior mukunguru, is a -Cutch-made cotton plaid, with large or small squares, red and -white, or black and blue; this cloth is an especial favourite with -the Wamasai tribes. The score of pieces, each 2 yards, costs -6 dollars 25 cents. There is a dearer variety, of which each -piece is 3 yards long, costing 16 dollars per kori, and therefore -rarely sold.</p> - -<p>Of the last division of “cloths with names,” namely those of -silk and cotton mixed, the most popular is the subaí. It is a -striped stuff, with small checks between the lines, and with a -half-breadth of border, a complicated pattern of red, black, and -yellow. This cloth is used as an uzar, or loin-cloth, by the -middle classes of Arabs; the tambua, taraza, or fringe, is applied -to the cloth with a band of gold thread at Zanzibar, by Wasawahili. -The subai, made at Maskat of Cutch cotton, varies -greatly in price: the cheapest, of cotton only, may be obtained -for 2 dollars; the medium, generally preferred for presents to -great chiefs, is about 5 dollars 50 cents; whilst the most expensive, -inwoven with gold thread, ranges from 8 to 30 dollars.</p> - -<p>The dewli is the Indian lungi, a Surat silk, garnished with a -border of gold thread and a fringe at Zanzibar. It is a red, -yellow, or green ground, striped in various ways, and much -prized for uzar. The price of the cheap piece of 3·50 yards is -7 dollars, besides the fringe, which is 2 dollars more; the best, -when adorned with gold, rise to 80 dollars.</p> - -<p>The sabuni uzar, made in Maskat, is a silk-bordered cotton, a -small blue and white check; the red and yellow edging which -gives it its value is about one-fifth of its breadth. The score of -pieces, each 2·50 yards long, varies from 25 to 50 dollars; the -more expensive, however, rarely find their way into the interior.</p> - -<p>The khesi is a rare importation from Bombay, a scarlet silk, -made at Tannah; the piece sold at Bombay for 10 Co.’s rs. -fetches at Zanzibar 5 dols. 50 cents to 6 dollars; this kind is -preferred by the Wanyamwezi chiefs; when larger, and adorned -with gold stripes, it rises to 35 Co.’s rs., or 19 dollars, and is -prized by the Banyans and Hindis of Zanzibar.</p> - -<p>The masnafu is rare like the khesi; it is a mixed silk and -cotton cloth, of striped pattern, made at Maskat. The cheapest -is a piece of 1·75 yards, costing from 2 to 5 dollars, and highly -regarded in Unyamwezi; the larger kinds, of 2·50 yards, rise -from 5 to 6 dollars, and the Arabs will pay from 20 to 25 dollars -for those worked with gold thread.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-400">[400]</span></p> - -<p>These notes upon the prices of importations into Central -Africa rest upon the authority of the Hindus, and principally -of Ladha Damha, the collector of customs at Zanzibar. Specimens -of the cloths were deposited with the Royal Geographical -Society of London, and were described by the kindness of Mr. -Alderman Botterill, <span class="smcapall">F.R.G.S.</span></p> - -<p>Remain for consideration the minor and local items of traffic.</p> - -<p>The skull-caps are of two kinds. One is a little fez, locally -called kummah. It is made in France, rarely at Bagdad, and -sells at Zanzibar for 5 dols. 50 cents to 9 dollars per dozen. -The cheaper kind is preferred in Unyamwezi; it is carried up -from the coast by Arab slaves and Wasawahili merchants, and -is a favourite wear with the sultan and the mtongi. At Unyanyembe -the price of the fez rises to 1 dollar. The “alfiyyah” is -the common Surat cap, worked with silk upon a cotton ground; -it is affected by the Diwans and Shomwis of the coasts. The -“vis-gol,” or 20-stitch, preferred for importation, cost 8 dollars -per score; the “tris-gol,” or 30-stitch, 13 dollars; and the -“chalis-gol,” or 40-stitch, 18 dollars.</p> - -<p>Besides these articles, a little hardware finds its way into the -country. Knives, razors, fish-hooks, and needles are useful, -especially in the transit of Uzaramo. As an investment they -are useless; the people, who make for themselves an article -which satisfies their wants, will not part with valuables to -secure one a little better. They have small axes and sharp -spears, consequently they will not buy dear cutlery; they have -gourds, and therefore they care little for glass and china. The -Birmingham trinkets and knicknacks, of which travellers take -large outfits to savage and barbarous countries, would in East -Africa be accepted by women and children as presents, but -unless in exceptional cases they would not procure a pound of -grain; mirrors are cheap and abundant at Zanzibar, yet they -are rarely imported into the interior. The people will devise -new bijouterie for themselves, but they will not borrow it from -strangers. In the maritime regions, where the tribes are more -civilised, they will covet such foreign contrivances, as dollars, -blankets, snuff-boxes, and tin cylinders which can be converted -into tobacco pouches: the Wanyamwezi would not regard -them. Similarly in Somaliland, a case of Birmingham goods -carried through the country returned to Aden almost full.</p> - -<p>Coffee, sugar, and soap may generally be obtained in small -quantities from the Arabs of Unyanyembe. At Zanzibar the -price of common coffee is 3 dollars 75 cents, and of Mocha 5 -dollars 50 cents per frasilah. Sugar is of three kinds: the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-401">[401]</span> -buluji, or loaf-sugar, imported from America, averages 6 annas; -sukkari za mawe, or sugar-candy, fetches upon the island 5 -dollars 50 cents per frasilah; and the bungálá, or sukkari za -mchanga (brown Bengal sugar), costs 3 dollars 50 cents; gur, -or molasses, sells at Zanzibar for 1 dollar 25 cents per frasilah. -Soap is brought to Zanzibar island by the Americans, French, -and India merchants.</p> - -<p>The other articles of importation into Zanzibar, which, however, -so rarely find their way into the interior, that they do not -merit detailed notice, are—rice and other cereals from Bombay -and Western India; shipping materials, canvas, rigging, hempen -cord, planks and boards, paint, pitch, turpentine, linseed-oil, -bees’-wax, and tar, from America and India; metals from Europe -and India; furniture from Europe and America, China and -Bombay; carpets and rugs from Turkey and Persia; mats from -Madagascar; made-up clothes from Maskat and Yemen; glassware -from Europe and America; pottery, paper, and candles -from Europe and Bombay; kuzah (water-jars) from the Persian -Gulf; woods and timber from Madagascar, the Mozambique, -and the coast as far north as Mombasah; skins and hides from -the Banadir; salt-fish (shark and others) from Oman, Hazramaut, -and the Benadir; brandy, rum, peppermint, eau de -Cologne, syrups and pickles, tobacco, cigars, and tea, from -Bombay, France, and the Mauritius; rose-water from the Gulf; -attar of rose and of sandal from Bombay; dates, almonds, and -raisins from Arabia and the Gulf; gums and ambergris from -Madagascar, the Mozambique, and the “Sayf-Tawil” (the long -low coast extending from Ras Awath, in N. lat. 5° 33′, to Ras -el-Khayl, N. lat. 7° 44′); aloes and dragon’s-blood from Socotra; -incense, gum Arabic, and myrrh from the Somali country and -the Benadir; turmeric, opium, ginger, nutmegs, colombo-root, -cardamoms, cinnamon, aniseed, camphor, benzoin, assafœtida, -saltpetre, potash, blue vitriol, alum, soda, saffron, garlic, fenugreek, -and other drugs and spices from Bombay and Western -India.</p> - -<p>The staple articles of the internal trade throughout the regions -extending from the coast of the Indian Ocean to the lakes of -Central Africa are comprised in slaves and cattle, salt, iron, tobacco, -mats and strainers, and tree-barks and ropes. Of these, -all except salt have been noticed in detail in the preceding pages.</p> - -<p>Salt is brought down during the season from East Arabia to -Zanzibar by Arab dows, and is heaped up for sale on a strip of -clear ground under the eastern face of the gurayza or fort. It -is of two kinds: the fine rock salt sells at 6 annas per frasilah, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-402">[402]</span> -and the inferior, which is dark and sandy, at about half that -price. On the coast the principal ports and towns supply -themselves with sea-salt evaporated in the rudest way. Pits -sunk near the numerous lagoons and backwaters allow the saline -particles to infiltrate; the contents, then placed in a pierced -earthen pot, are allowed to strain into a second beneath. They -are inspissated by boiling, and are finally dried in the sun, when -the mass assumes the form of sand. This coarse salt is sold -after the rains, when it abounds, for its weight of holcus; when -dear, the price is doubled. In the interior there are two great -markets, and the regularity of communication enables the people -to fare better as regards the luxury than the more civilised -races of Abyssinia and Harar, where of a millionnaire it is said, -“he eateth salt.” An inferior article is exported from Ugogo, -about half-way between the East Coast and the Tanganyika -Lake. A superior quality is extracted from the pits near the -Rusugi River in Western Uvinza, distant but a few days from -Ujiji. For the prices and other conditions of sale the reader is -referred to Chapters V. and VII.</p> - -<p>The subject of exports will be treated of at some length; it -is not only interesting from its intrinsic value, but it is capable of -considerable development, and it also offers a ready entrance -for civilisation. The African will never allow the roads to be -permanently closed—none but the highly refined amongst mankind -can contemplate with satisfaction a life of utter savagery. -The Arab is too wise to despise “protection,” but he will not -refuse to avail himself of assistance offered by foreigners when -they appear as capitalists. Hitherto British interests have been -neglected in this portion of the African continent, and the name -of England is unknown in the interior. Upon the island of -Zanzibar, in 1857-8, there was not an English firm; no line of -steamers connected it with India or the Cape, and, during the -dead season, nine months have elapsed before the answer to a -letter has been received from home.</p> - -<p>The reader is warned that amongst the East Africans the -“bay o shara”—barter or round trade—is an extensive subject, -of which only the broad outlines and general indications can be -traced. At present, the worthlessness of time enables both -buyer and seller to haggle <i>ad libitum</i>, and the superior craft of -the Arab, the Banyan, the Msawahili, and the more civilised -slave, has encumbered with a host of difficulties the simplest -transactions. It is easy to be a merchant and to buy wholesale -at Zanzibar, but a lengthened period of linguistic study and of -conversancy with the habits and customs of the people must be -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-403">[403]</span> -spent by the stranger who would engage in the task of retail-buying -in the interior.</p> - -<p>The principal article of export from the Zanzibar coast is -copal, from the interior ivory. The minor items are hippopotamus -teeth, rhinoceros horns, cattle, skins, hides, and horns, the -cereals, timbers, and cowries. Concerning the slaves, who in -East Africa still form a considerable item of export, details -have been given in the preceding pages. The articles which -might be exploited, were means of carriage supplied to the -people, are wax and honey, orchella-weed, fibrous substances, -and a variety of gums.</p> - -<p>The copal of Zanzibar, which differs materially from that of -the Western Coast of Mexico and the cowaee (Australian -dammar?) of New Zealand, is the only article convertible into -the fine varnishes now so extensively used throughout the -civilised world.</p> - -<p>As the attention of the Expedition was particularly directed -to the supplies of copal in East Africa by Dr. G. Buist, LL.D., -Secretary to the Bombay branch of the R. G. Society, many -inquiries and visits to the copal diggings were made. In the -early part of 1857 specimens of the soils and subsoils, and of the -tree itself, were forwarded to the Society.</p> - -<p>The copal-tree is called by the Arabs shajar el sandarús, from -the Hindostani chhandarus; by the Wasawahili msandarusi; -and by the Wazaramo and other maritime races mnángú. The -tree still lingers on the island and the mainland of Zanzibar. -It was observed at Mombasah, Saadani, Muhonyera, and -Mzegera of Uzaramo; and was heard of at Bagamoyo, Mbuamaji, -and Kilwa. It is by no means, as some have supposed, a shrubby -thorn; its towering bole has formed canoes 60 feet long, and a -single tree has sufficed for the kelson of a brig. The average -size, however, is about half that height, with from 3 to 6 feet -girth near the ground; the bark is smooth, the lower branches -are often within reach of a man’s hand, and the tree frequently -emerges from a natural ring-fence of dense vegetation. The -trunk is of a yellow-whitish tinge, rendering the tree conspicuous -amid the dark African jungle-growths; it is dotted with exudations -of raw gum, which is found scattered in bits about the -base; and it is infested by ants, especially by a long ginger-coloured -and semi-transparent variety, called by the people -maji-m’oto, or “boiling water,” from its fiery bite. The copal -wood is yellow tinted, and the saw collects from it large flakes; -when dried and polished it darkens to a honey-brown, and, -being well veined, it is used for the panels of doors. The small -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-404">[404]</span> -and pliable branches, freshly cut, form favourite “bakur,” the -kurbaj or bastinadoing instrument of these regions; after long -keeping they become brittle. The modern habitat of the tree -is the alluvial sea-plain and the anciently raised beach: though -extending over the crest of the latter formation, it ceases to be -found at any distance beyond the landward counterslope, and -it is unknown in the interior.</p> - -<p>The gum copal is called by the Arabs and Hindus sandarus, -by the Wasawahili sandarusi, and by the Wanyamwezi—who -employ it like the people of Mexico and Yucatan as incense in -incantations and medicinings—sirokko and mámnángu. This -semi-fossil is not “washed out by streams and torrents,” but -“crowed” or dug up by the coast clans and the barbarians of -the maritime region. In places it is found when sinking piles -for huts, and at times it is picked up in spots overflowed by the -high tides. The East African seaboard, from Ras Gomani in -S. lat. 3° to Ras Delgado in 10° 41′, with a medium depth of -30 miles, may indeed be called the “copal coast;” every part -supplies more or less the gum of commerce. Even a section of -this line, from the mouth of the Pangani River to Ngao -(Monghou), would, if properly exploited, suffice to supply all -our present wants.</p> - -<p>The Arabs and Africans divide the gum into two different -kinds. The raw copal (copal vert of the French market) is -called sandarusi za miti, “tree copal,” or chakází, corrupted by -the Zanzibar merchant to “jackass” copal. This chakazi is -either picked from the tree or is found, as in the island of -Zanzibar, shallowly imbedded in the loose soil, where it has not -remained long enough to attain the phase of bitumenisation. -To the eye it is smoky or clouded inside, it feels soft, it becomes -like putty when exposed to the action of alcohol, and it viscidises -in the solution used for washing the true copal. Little valued -in European technology, it is exported to Bombay, where it is -converted into an inferior varnish for carriages and palanquins, -and to China, where the people have discovered, it is said, for -utilising it, a process which, like the manufacture of rice paper -and of Indian ink, they keep secret. The price of chakazi -varies from 4 to 9 dollars per frasilah.</p> - -<p>The true or ripe copal, properly called sandarusi, is the produce -of vast extinct forests, overthrown in former ages either by some -violent action of the elements, or exuded from the roots of the -tree by an abnormal action which exhausted and destroyed it. -The gum, buried at depths beyond atmospheric influence, has, -like amber and similar gum-resins, been bitumenised in all its -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-405">[405]</span> -purity, the volatile principles being fixed by moisture and by the -exclusion of external air. That it is the produce of a tree is -proved by the discovery of pieces of gum embedded in a touchwood -which crumbles under the fingers; the “goose-skin,” which -is the impress of sand or gravel, shows that it was buried in a -soft state; and the bees, flies, gnats, and other insects which are -sometimes found in it delicately preserved, seem to disprove a -remote geologic antiquity. At the end of the rains it is usually -carried ungarbled to Zanzibar. When garbled upon the coast -it acquires an additional value of 1 dollar per frasilah. The -Banyan embarks it on board his own boat, or pays a freight -varying from 2 to 4 annas, and the ushur or government tax is -6 annas per frasilah with half an anna for charity. About 8 -annas per frasilah are deducted for “tare and tret.” At Zanzibar, -after being sifted and freed from heterogeneous matter, it is -sent by the Banyan retailer to the Indian market or sold to the -foreign merchant. It is then washed in solutions of various -strengths: the lye is supposed to be composed of soda and other -agents for softening the water; its proportions, however, are -kept a profound secret. European technologists have, it is said, -vainly proposed theoretical methods for the delicate part of the -operation which is to clear the goose-skin of dirt. The Americans -exported the gum uncleaned, because the operation is better -performed at Salem. Of late years they have begun to prepare -it at Zanzibar, like the Hamburg traders. When taken from -the solution, in which from 20 to 37 per cent. is lost, the gum is -washed, sun-dried for some hours, and cleaned with a hard brush, -which must not, however, injure the goose skin; the dark “eyes,” -where the dirt has sunk deep, are also picked out with an iron -tool. It is then carefully garbled with due regard to colour and -size. There are many tints and peculiarities known only to -those whose interests compel them to study and to observe copal, -which, like cotton and Cashmere shawls, requires years of experience. -As a rule, the clear and semi-transparent are the best; -then follow the numerous and almost imperceptible varieties of -dull white, lemon colour, amber yellow, rhubarb yellow, bright -red, and dull red. Some specimens of this vegetable fossil appear -by their dirty and blackened hue to have been subjected to -the influence of fire; others again are remarkable for a tender -grass-green colour. According to some authorities, the gum, -when long kept, has been observed to change its tinge. The -sizes are fine, medium, and large, with many subdivisions; the -pieces vary from the dimensions of small pebbles to 2 or 3 ounces; -they have been known to weigh 5 lbs., and, it is said, at Salem -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-406">[406]</span> -a piece of 35 lbs. is shown. Lastly, the gum is thrown broadcast -into boxes and exported from the island. The Hamburg -merchants keep European coopers, who put together the cases -whose material is sent out to them. It is almost impossible to -average the export of copal from Zanzibar. According to the -late Lieutenant-Colonel Hamerton, it varies from 800,000 to -1,200,000 lbs. per annum, of which Hamburg absorbs 150,000 -lbs., and Bombay two lacs’ worth. The refuse copal used formerly -to reach India as “packing,” being deemed of no value in -commerce; of late years the scarcity of the supply has rendered -merchants more careful. The price, also, is subject to incessant -fluctuations, and during the last few years it has increased from -4 dol. 50 cents to a maximum of 12 dollars per frasilah.</p> - -<p>According to the Arabs, the redder the soil the better is the -copal. The superficies of the copal country is generally a thin -coat of white sand, covering a dark and fertilising humus, the -vestiges of decayed vegetation, which varies from a few inches -to a foot and a half in depth. In the island of Zanzibar, which -produces only the chakazi or raw copal, the subsoil is a stiff blue -clay, the raised sea-beach, and the ancient habitat of the coco. -It becomes greasy and adhesive, clogging the hoe in its lower -bed; where it is dotted with blood-coloured fragments of ochreish -earth, proving the presence of oxidising and chalybeate efficients, -and with a fibrous light-red matter, apparently decayed coco-roots. -At a depth of from 2 to 3 feet water oozes from the -greasy walls of the pit. When digging through these formations, -the gum copal occurs in the vegetable soil overlying the clayey -subsoil.</p> - -<p>A visit to the little port of Saadani afforded different results. -After crossing 3 miles of alluvial and maritime plain, covered -with a rank vegetation of spear grass and low thorns, with occasional -mimosas and tall hyphænas, which have supplanted the -coco, the traveller finds a few scattered specimens of the living -tree and pits dotting the ground. The diggers, however, generally -advance another mile to a distinctly formed sea-beach, -marked with lateral bands of quartzose and water-rolled pebbles, -and swelling gradually to 150 feet from the alluvial plain. The -thin but rich vegetable covering supports a luxuriant thicket, -the subsoil is red and sandy, and the colour darkens as the -excavation deepens. After 3 feet, fibrous matter appears, and -below this copal, dusty and comminuted, is blended with the red -ochreish earth. The guides assert that they have never hit upon -the subsoil of blue clay, but they never dig lower than a man’s -waist, and the pits are seldom more than 2 feet in depth. Though -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-407">[407]</span> -the soil is red, the copal of Saadani is not highly prized, being -of a dull white colour; it is usually designated as “chakazi.”</p> - -<p>On the line inland from Bagamoyo and Kaole the copal-tree -was observed at rare intervals in the forests, and the pits extended -as far as Muhonyera, about 40 miles in direct distance -from the coast. The produce of this country, though not first-rate, -is considered far superior to that about Saadani.</p> - -<p>Good copal is dug in the vicinity of Mbuamaji, and the diggings -are said to extend to 6 marches inland. The Wadenkereko, -a wild tribe, mixed with and stretching southwards of the Wazaramo, -at a distance of two days’ journey from the sea, supply -a mixed quality, more often white than red. The best gums are -procured from Hunda and its adjacent districts. Frequent feuds -with the citizens deter the wild people from venturing out of -their jungles, and thus the Banyans of Mbuamaji find two small -dows sufficient for the carriage of their stores. At that port the -price of copal varies from 2 dol. 50 cents to 3 dol. per frasilah.</p> - -<p>The banks of the Rufiji River, especially the northern district -of Wánde, supply the finest and best of copal; it is dug by the -Wawande tribe, who either carry it to Kikunya and other ports, -or sell it to travelling hucksters. The price in loco is from -1 dol. 50 cents to 2 dollars per frasilah; on the coast it rises to -3 dol. 50 cents. At all these places the tariff varies with the -Bombay market, and in 1858 little was exported owing to the -enlistment of “free labourers.”</p> - -<p>In the vicinity of Kilwa, for four marches inland, copal is dug -up by the Mandandu and other tribes; owing to the facility of -carriage and the comparative safety of the country it is somewhat -dearer than that purchased on the banks of the Rufiji. The -copal of Ngao (Monghou) and the Lindi creek is much cheaper -than at Kilwa; the produce, however, is variable in quality, -being mostly a dull white chakazi.</p> - -<p>Like that of East African produce generally, the exploitation -of copal is careless and desultory. The diggers are of -the lowest classes, and hands are much wanted. Near the -seaboard it is worked by the fringe of Moslem negroids called -the Wamrima or Coast clans; each gang has its own mtu mku -or akida’ao (mucaddum—headman), who, by distributing the -stock, contrives to gain more and to labour less than the others. -In the interior it is exploited by the Washenzi or heathen, who -work independently of one another. When there is no blood-feud -they carry it down to the coast, otherwise they must await -the visits of petty retail dealers from the ports, who enter the -country with ventures of 10 or 12 dollars, and barter for it cloth, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-408">[408]</span> -beads, and wire. The kosi—south-west or rainy monsoon—is -the only period of work; the kaskazi, or dry season, is a dead -time. The hardness of the ground is too much for the energies -of the people: moreover, “kaskazi copal” gives trouble in -washing on account of the sand adhering to its surface, and the -flakes are liable to break. As a rule, the apathetic Moslem and -the futile heathen will not work whilst a pound of grain remains -in their huts. The more civilised use a little jembe or hoe, an -implement about as efficient as the wooden spade with which an -English child makes dirt-pies.</p> - -<p>The people of the interior “crow” a hole about six inches in -diameter with a pointed stick, and scrape out the loosened earth -with the hand as far as the arm will reach. They desert the -digging before it is exhausted; and although the labourers could -each, it is calculated, easily collect from ten to twelve lbs. per -diem, they prefer sleeping through the hours of heat, and content -themselves with as many ounces. Whenever upon the coast -there is a blood-feud—and these are uncommonly frequent—a -drought, a famine, or a pestilence, workmen strike work, and -cloth and beads are offered in vain. It is evident that the copal-mine -can never be regularly and efficiently worked as long as it -continues in the hands of such unworthy miners. The energy -of Europeans, men of capital and purpose, settled on the seaboard -with gangs of foreign workmen, would soon remedy -existing evils; but they would require not only the special -permission, but also the protection of the local government. -And although the intensity of the competition principle amongst -the Arabs has not yet emulated the ferocious rivalry of civilisation, -the new settlers must expect considerable opposition from -those in possession. Though the copal diggings are mostly -situated beyond the jurisdiction of Zanzibar, the tract labours -under all the disadvantages of a monopoly: the diwans, the -heavy merchants, and the petty traders of the coast derive from -it, it is supposed, profits varying from 80 to 100 per cent. Like -other African produce, though almost dirt-cheap, it becomes -dear by passing through many hands, and the frasilah, worth -from 1 to 3 dollars in the interior, acquires a value of from 8 to -9 dollars at Zanzibar.</p> - -<p>Zanzibar is the principal mart for perhaps the finest and -largest ivory in the world. It collects the produce of the lands -lying between the parallels of 2° N. lat. and 10° S. lat., and the -area extends from the coast to the regions lying westward of the -Tanganyika Lake. It is almost the only legitimate article of -traffic for which caravans now visit the interior.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-409">[409]</span></p> - -<p>An account of the ivory markets in Inner Africa will remove -sundry false impressions. The Arabs are full of fabulous reports -concerning regions where the article may be purchased for its -circumference in beads, and greed of gain has led many of them -to danger and death. Wherever tusks are used as cattle-pens -or to adorn graves, the reason is that they are valueless on -account of the want of conveyance.</p> - -<p>The elephant has not wholly disappeared from the maritime -regions of Zanzibar. It is found, especially during the rainy -monsoon, a few miles behind Pangani town: it exists also -amongst the Wazegura, as far as their southern limit, the Gama -River. The Wadoe hunt the animal in the vicinity of Shakini, -a peak within sight of Zanzibar. Though killed out of Uzaramo, -and K’hutu, it is found upon the banks of the Kingani and the -Rufiji rivers. The coast people now sell their tusks for 30 to -35 dollars’ worth of cloth, beads, and wire per frasilah.</p> - -<p>In Western Usagara the elephant extends from Maroro to -Ugogi. The people, however, being rarely professional hunters, -content themselves with keeping a look-out for the bodies of -animals that have died of thirst or of wounds received elsewhere. -As the chiefs are acquainted with the luxuries of the coast, their -demands are fantastic. They will ask, for instance, for a large -tusk—the frasilah is not used in inland sales—a copper caldron -worth 15 dollars; a khesi, or fine cloth, costing 20 dollars; and -a variable quantity of blue and white cottons: thus, an ivory, -weighing perhaps 3 frasilah, may be obtained for 50 dollars.</p> - -<p>Ugogo and its encircling deserts are peculiarly rich in -elephants. The people are eminently hunters, and, as has -been remarked, they trap the animals, and in droughty seasons -they find many dead in the jungles. Ivory is somewhat -dearer in Ugogo than in Unyamwezi, as caravans rarely visit -the coasts. It is generally bartered to return caravans for -slaves brought from the interior; of these, five or six represent -the value of a large tusk.</p> - -<p>The ivory of Unyamwezi is collected from the districts of -Mgunda Mk’hali, Usukuma, Umanda, Usagozi, and other adjacent -regions. When the “Land of the Moon” was first visited -by the Arabs, they purchased, it is said, 10 farasilah of ivory -with 1 frasilah of the cheap white or blue porcelains. The -price is now between 30 and 35 dollars per frasilah in cloth, -beads, and wire. The Africans, ignoring the frasilah, estimate -the value of the tusk by its size and quality; and the Arabs -ascertain its exact weight by steelyards. Moreover, they raise -the weight of what they purchase to 48 lbs., and diminish that -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-410">[410]</span> -which they sell to 23·50 lbs., calling both by the same name, -frasilah. When the Arab wishes to raise an outfit at Unyanyembe -he can always command three gorahs of domestics (locally -worth 30 dollars) per frasilah of ivory. Merchants visiting -Karagwah, where the ivory is of superior quality, lay in a stock -of white, pink, blue, green, and coral beads, and brass armlets, -which must be made up at Unyanyembe to suit the tastes of -the people. Cloth is little in demand. For one frasilah of -beads and brass wire they purchase about one and a half of ivory. -At K’hokoro the price of tusks has greatly risen; a large specimen -can scarcely be procured under 40 doti of domestics, one -frasilah of brass wire, and 100 fundo of coloured beads. The -tusks collected in this country are firm, white, and soft, sometimes -running 6 farasilah (210 lbs.) The small quantity collected -in Ubena, Urori, and the regions east of the Tanganyika -Lake, resembles that of K’hokoro.</p> - -<p>The ivory of Ujiji is collected from the provinces lying -around the northern third of the lake, especially from Urundi -and Uvira. These tusks have one great defect; though white -and smooth when freshly taken from the animal, they put forth -after a time a sepia-coloured or dark brown spot, extending like -a ring over the surface, which gradually spreads and injures the -texture. Such is the “Jendai” or “Gendai” ivory, well known -at Zanzibar: it is apt to flake off outside, and is little prized on -account of its lightness. At Ujiji tusks were cheap but a few -years ago, now they fetch an equal weight of porcelain or glass -beads, in addition to which the owners—they are generally -many—demand from 4 to 8 cloths. Competition, which amongst -the Arabs is usually somewhat unscrupulous, has driven the -ivory merchant to regions far west of the Tanganyika, and -geography will thrive upon the losses of commerce.</p> - -<p>The process of elephant-hunting, the complicated division of -the spoils, and the mode of transporting tusks to the coast, have -already been described. A quantity of ivory, as has appeared, -is wasted in bracelets, armlets, and other ornaments. This -would not be the case were the imports better calculated to suit -the tastes of the people. At present the cloth-stuffs are little -prized, and the beads are not sufficiently varied for barbarians -who, eminently fickle, require change by way of stimulant. The -Arabs seek in ivory six qualities: it must be white, heavy, soft, -thick—especially at the point—gently curved—when too much -curved it loses from 10 to 14 per cent.—and it must be marked -with dark surface-lines, like cracks, running longitudinally towards -the point. It is evident from the preceding details that -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-411">[411]</span> -the Arab merchants gain but little beyond a livelihood in plenty -and dignity by their expeditions to the interior. An investment -of 1,000 dollars rarely yields more than 70 farasilah (2450 -lbs.) Assuming the high price of Zanzibar at an average of 50 -dollars per farasilah, the stock would be worth 3500 dollars—a -net profit of 1050 dollars. Against this, however, must be set -off the price of porterage and rations—equal to at least five -dollars per frasilah—the enormous interest upon the capital, the -wastage of outfit, and the risk of loss, which, upon the whole, is -excessive. Though time, toil, and sickness, not being matters -of money, are rarely taken into consideration by the Eastern -man, they must be set down on the loss side of the account. -It is therefore plain that commercial operations on such a scale -can be remunerative only to a poor people, and that they -can be rendered lucrative to capitalists only by an extension -and a development which, depending solely upon improved -conveyance, must be brought about by the energy of Europeans. -For long centuries past and for centuries to come the -Semite and the Hamite have been and will be contented with -human labour. The first thought which suggests itself to the -sons of Japhet is a tramroad from the coast to the Lake regions.</p> - -<p>The subject of ivory as sold at Zanzibar is as complicated as -that of sugar in Great Britain or of cotton in America. A detailed -treatise would here be out of place, but the following notices -may serve to convey an idea of the trade.</p> - -<p>The merchants at Zanzibar recognise in ivory, the produce of -these regions, three several qualities. The best, a white, soft, -and large variety, with small “bamboo,” is that from the Banadir, -Brava, Makdishu, and Marka. A somewhat inferior kind, -on account of its hardness, is brought from the countries of -Chaga, Umasai, and Nguru. The Wamasai often spoil their -tusks by cutting them, for the facility of transport; and, like the -people of Nguru and other tribes, they stain the exterior by -sticking the tooth in the sooty rafters of their chimneyless huts, -with the idea that so treated it will not crack or split in the sun. -This red colour, erroneously attributed at Zanzibar to the use -of ghee, is removed by the people with blood, or cowdung mixed -with water. Of these varieties the smaller tusks fetch from 40 -to 50 dollars; when they attain a length of 6 feet, the price -would be 12<i>l.</i>; and some choice specimens 7<sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>2</sub> feet long fetch 60<i>l.</i> -A lot of 47 tusks was seen to fetch 1500<i>l.</i>; the average weight -of each was 95 lbs., 80 being considered moderate, and from 70 -to 75 lbs. poor.</p> - -<p>The second quality is that imported from the regions about -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-412">[412]</span> -the Nyassa Lake, and carried to Kilwa by the Wabisa, the -Wahiao, the Wangindo, the Wamakua, and other clans. The -“Bisha ivory” formerly found its way to the Mozambique, but -the barbarians have now learned to prefer Zanzibar; and the -citizens welcome them, as they sell their stores more cheaply -than the Wahiao, who have become adepts in coast arts. The -ivory of the Wabisa, though white and soft, is generally small, -the full length of a tusk being 7 feet. The price of the “bab -kalasi”—scrivellos or small tusks, under 20 lbs.—is from 24 to -25 dollars; and the value increases at the rate of somewhat less -than 1 dollar per lb. The “bab gujrati or kashshi,” the bab -kashshi, is that intended for the Cutch market. The tusk must -be of middling size, little bent, very bluff at the point as it is -intended for rings and armlets; the girth must be a short span -and three fingers, the bamboo shallow and not longer than a -hand. Ivory fulfilling all these conditions will sell as high as -70 dollars per frasilah,—medium size of 20 to 45 lbs.—fetches -56 to 60 dollars. The “bab wilaiti,” or “foreign sort,” is that -purchased in European and American markets. The largest size -is preferred, which ranging from 45 to 100 lbs., may be purchased -for 52 dollars per frasilah.</p> - -<p>The third and least valued quality is the western ivory, the -Gendai, and other varieties imported from Usagara, Uhehe, -Urori, Unyamwezi, and its neighbourhood. The price varies -according to size, form, and weight, from 45 to 56 dollars per -frasilah.</p> - -<p>The transport of ivory to the coast, and the profits derived by -the maritime settlers, Arab and Indian, have been described. -When all fees have been paid, the tusk, guarded against -smuggling by the custom-house stamp, is sent to Zanzibar. On -the island scrivellos under 6 lbs. in weight are not registered. -According to the late Lieutenant-Colonel Hamerton, the annual -average of large tusks is not less than 20,000. The people of -the country make the weight range between 17,000 and 25,000 -frasilah. The tusk is larger at Zanzibar than elsewhere. At -Mozambique, for instance, 60 lbs. would be considered a good -average for a lot. Monster tusks are spoken of. Specimens of -5 farasilah are not very rare, and the people have traditions that -these wonderful armatures have extended to 227 lbs., and even -to 280 lbs. each.</p> - -<p>Amongst the minor articles of export from the interior, hippopotamus -teeth have been enumerated. Beyond the coast, -however, they form but a slender item in the caravan load. In -the inner regions they are bought in retail; the price ranges -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-413">[413]</span> -between 1 and 2 fundo of beads, and at times 3 may be procured -for a shukkah. On the coast they rise, when fine, to 25 dollars -per frasilah. At Zanzibar a large lot, averaging 6 to 8 lbs. in -weight (12 lbs. would be about the largest), will sell for 60 -dollars; per frasilah of 5 lbs. from 40 to 45 dollars: whilst the -smallest fetch from 5 to 6 dollars. Of surpassing hardness, -they are still used in Europe for artificial teeth. In America -porcelain bids fair to supplant them.</p> - -<p>The gargatan (karkadan?), or small black rhinoceros with a -double horn, is as common as the elephant in the interior. The -price of the horn is regulated by its size; a small specimen is to -be bought for 1 jembe or iron hoe. When large the price is -doubled. Upon the coast a lot fetches from 6 to 9 dollars per -frasilah, which at Zanzibar increases to from 8 to 12 dollars. The -inner barbarians apply plates of the horn to helcomas and ulcerations, -and they cut it into bits, which are bound with twine -round the limb, like the wooden mpigii or hirizi. Large horns -are imported through Bombay to China and Central Asia, where -it is said the people convert them into drinking-cups, which sweat -if poison be administered in them: thus they act like the Venetian -glass of our ancestors, and are as highly prized as that eccentric -fruit the coco de mer. The Arabs of Maskat and Yemen -cut them into sword-hilts, dagger-hafts, tool-handles, and small -boxes for tobacco, and other articles. They greatly prize, and -will pay 12 dollars per frasilah, for the spoils of the kobaoba, or -long-horned white rhinoceros, which, however, appears no longer -to exist in the latitudes westward of Zanzibar island.</p> - -<p>Black cattle are seldom driven down from the interior, on account -of the length and risk of the journey. It is evident, however, -that the trade is capable of extensive development. The -price of full-grown bullocks varies, according to the distance from -the coast, between 3 and 5 doti; whilst that of cows is about -double. When imported from the mainland ports, 1 dollar per -head is paid as an octroi to the government, and about the same -sum for passage-money. As Banyans will not allow this traffic -to be conducted by their own craft, it is confined to the Moslem -population. The island of Zanzibar is supplied with black cattle, -chiefly from the Banadir and Madagascar, places beyond the -range of this description. The price of bullocks varies from 5 to -8 dollars, and of cows from 6 to 9 dollars. Goats and sheep -abound throughout Eastern Africa. The former, which are -preferred, cost in the maritime regions from 8 to 10 shukkah -merkani; in Usagara, the most distant province which exports -them to Zanzibar, they may be bought for 4 to 6 shukkah per -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-414">[414]</span> -head. The Wasawahili conduct a small trade in this live stock, -and sell them upon the island for 4 to 5 dollars per head. From -their large profits, however, must be deducted the risk of transport, -the price of passage, and the octroi, which is 25 cents per -head.</p> - -<p>The exceptional expense of man-carriage renders the exportation -of hides and horns from the far interior impossible. The -former are sold with the animal, and are used for shields, bedding, -saddle-bags, awnings, sandals, and similar minor purposes. Skins, -as has been explained, are in some regions almost the only wear; -consequently the spoils of a fine goat command, even in far -Usukuma, a doti of domestics. The principal wild hides, which, -however, rarely find their way to the coast, are those of the -rhinoceros—much prized by the Arabs for targes—the lion and -the leopard, the giraffe and the buffalo, the zebra and the quagga. -Horns are allowed to crumble upon the ground. The island of -Zanzibar exports hides and skins, which are principally those of -bullocks and goats brought from Brava, Marka, Makdishu, and -the Somali country. The korjah or score of the former has risen -from 10 to 24 dollars; and the people have learned to mix them -with the spoils of wild animals, especially the buffalo. When -taken from the animal the hides are pinned down with pegs passed -through holes in the edges; thus they dry without shrinking, -and become stiff as boards. When thoroughly sun-parched -they are put in soak and are pickled in sea-water for forty-eight -hours; thus softened, they are again stretched and staked, that -they may remain smooth: as they are carelessly removed by the -natives, the meat fat, flippers, ears, and all the parts likely to be -corrupted, or, to prevent close stowage, are cut off whilst wet. -They are again thoroughly sun-dried, the grease which exudes -during the operation is scraped off, and they are beaten with -sticks to expel the dust. The Hamburg merchants paint their -hides with an arsenical mixture, which preserves them during -the long months of magazine-storing and sea-voyage. The French -and American traders omit this operation, and their hides suffer -severely from insects.</p> - -<p>Details concerning the growth of cereals in the interior have -occurred in the preceding pages. Grain is never exported from -the lands lying beyond the maritime regions: yet the disforesting -of the island of Zanzibar and the extensive plantations of clove-trees -rendering a large importation of cereals necessary to the -Arabs, an active business is carried on by Arab dows from the -whole of the coast between Tanga and Ngao (Monghou), and -during the dear season, after the rains, considerable profits are -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-415">[415]</span> -realised. The corn measures used by the Banyans are as -<span class="nowrap">follows:—</span></p> - -<table class="measures" summary="Measures"> - -<tr> -<td class="text">2 Kubabah (each from 1·25 to 1·50 lbs., in fact, our “quart”)</td> -<td class="equals">=</td> -<td class="text">1 Kisaga.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="text">3 Kubabah</td> -<td class="equals">=</td> -<td class="text">1 Pishi (in Khutu the Pishi = 2 Kubabah).</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="text">4 Kubabah</td> -<td class="equals">=</td> -<td class="text">1 Kayla (equal to 2 Man).</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="text">24 Kayla</td> -<td class="equals">=</td> -<td class="text">1 Frasilah.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="text">60 Kayla</td> -<td class="equals">=</td> -<td class="text">1 Jizlah, in Kisawahili Mzo.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td class="text">20 Farasilah</td> -<td class="equals">=</td> -<td class="text">1 Kandi (candy).</td> -</tr> - -</table> - -<p>As usual in these lands, the kubabah or unit is made to be -arbitrary; it is divided into two kinds, large and small. The -measure is usually a gourd.</p> - -<p>The only timber now utilised in commerce is the mukanda’a -or red and white mangrove, which supplies the well-known bordi -or “Zanzibar rafters.” They are the produce of the fluviatile -estuaries and the marine lagoons, and attain large dimensions -under the influence of potent heat and copious rains. The best -is the red variety, which, when thrown upon the shore, stains -the sand; it grows on the soft and slimy bank, and anchors -itself with ligneous shoots to the shifting soil. The white mangrove, -springing from harder ground, dispenses with these supports; -it is called mti wa muytu (“wild wood”), and is quickly -destroyed by worms. Indeed, all the bordi at Zanzibar begin -to fail after the fifth year if exposed to the humid atmosphere; -at Maskat it is said they will last nearly a century. The rafter -trade is conducted by Arab dows: the crews fell the trees, after -paying 2 or 3 dollars in cloth by way of ada or present to the -diwan, who permits them to hire labourers. The korjah or -score of cut and trimmed red mangrove rafters formerly cost at -Zanzibar 1 dollar; the price has now risen to 2 and 3 dollars. -This timber finds its way to Aden and the woodless lands of -Eastern and Western Arabia; at Jeddah they have been known -to fetch 1 dollar each.</p> - -<p>The maritime regions also supply a small quantity of the -“grenadille wood,” called by the people, who confound it with -real ebony (Diospyros ebenus), abnus and pingú. It is not so -brittle as ebony; it is harder than lignum-vitæ (G. officinalis), -spoiling the common saw, and is readily recognised by its -weight. As it does not absorb water or grease, it is sent to -Europe for the mouth-pieces and flanges of instruments, and -for the finer parts of mills. The people use it in the interior for -pipe-bowls.</p> - -<p>The mpira or caoutchouc-tree (Ficus elastica) grows abundantly -throughout the maritime regions. A few lumps of the -gum were brought to Zanzibar at the request of a merchant, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-416">[416]</span> -who offered a large sum for a few tons, in the vain hope of -stimulating the exploitation of this valuable article. The -specimens were not, however, cast in moulds as by the South -American Indians; they were full of water, and even fouler -than those brought from Madagascar. To develop the trade -European supervision would be absolutely necessary during the -season for tapping the trees.</p> - -<p>A tree growing upon the coast and common in Madagascar -produces, when an incision has been made in the bark, a juice -inspissating to the consistency of soft soap, and much resembling -the Indian “kokam.” This “kanya” is eaten by Arabs and -Africans, with the idea that it “moistens the body:” in cases -of stiff joints, swellings of the extremities, and contractions of -the sinews, it is melted over the fire and is rubbed into the -skin for a fortnight or three weeks.</p> - -<p>The produce and the value of the coco and areca palms have -already been noted. Orchella-weed (Rocilla fuciformis?), a -lichen most valuable in dyeing, is found, according to the late -Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton, growing on trees and rocks throughout -the maritime regions. The important growths of the interior -are the frankincense and bdellium, the coffee and nutmeg—which, -however, are still in a wild state—the tamarind, and -the sisam or black wood. The largest planks are made of the -mtimbati (African teak?) and the mvule; they are now exported -from the coast to the island, where they have almost died -out. As the art of sawing is unknown, a fine large tree is invariably -sacrificed for a single board. It was the opinion of the -late Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton that a saw-mill at the mouth of -the Pangani River would, if sanctioned by the local government, -be highly remunerative.</p> - -<p>Cowries, called by the Arabs kaure, in Kisawahili khete, -and in the interior simbi, are collected from various places in -the coast-region between Ras Hafun and the Mozambique. -This trade is in the hands of Moslem hucksters; the Banyan -who has no objection to the valuable ivory or hippopotamus-tooth, -finds his religion averse to the vile spoils of the -Cypræa. Cowries are purchased on the mainland by a curious -specimen of the “round-trade;” money is not taken, so the -article is sold measure for measure of holcus grain. From -Zanzibar the cowrie takes two directions. As it forms the currency -of the regions north of the “Land of the Moon,” and is -occasionally demanded as an ornament in Unyamwezi, the -return African porters, whose labour costs them nothing, often -partly load themselves with the article; the Arab, on the other -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-417">[417]</span> -hand, who seldom visits the northern kingdoms, does not find -compensation for porterage and rations. The second and principal -use of cowries is for exportation to the West African coast, -where they are used in currency—50 strings, each of 40 shells, -or a total of 2000, representing the dollar. This, in former -days a most lucrative trade, is now nearly ruined. Cowries -were purchased at 75 cents per jizlah, which represents from -3 to 3<sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>2</sub> sacks, of which much, however, was worthless. The -sacks in which they were shipped cost in Zanzibar 1 dollar -44 cents, and fetched in West Africa 8 or 9 dollars. The -shells sold at the rate of 80<i>l.</i> (60<i>l.</i> was the average English -price) per ton; thus the profits were estimated at 500 per cent., -and a Hamburg house rose, it is said, by this traffic, from 1 to -18 ships, of which 7 were annually engaged in shipping cowries. -From 75 cents the price rose to 4 dollars, it even attained a -maximum of 10 dollars, the medium being 6 and 7 dollars per -jizlah, and the profits necessarily declined.</p> - -<p>Cotton is indigenous to the more fertile regions of Eastern as -well as of Western Africa. The specimens hitherto imported -from Port Natal and from Angola have given satisfaction, as -they promise, with careful cultivation, to rival in fineness, firmness, -and weight the medium-staple cotton of the New World. -On the line between Zanzibar and the Tanganyika Lake the -shrub grows almost wild, with the sole exception of Ugogo and -its two flanks of wilderness, where the ground is too hard and -the dry season too prolonged to support it. The partial existence -of the same causes renders it scarce and dear in Unyamwezi. A -superior quality was introduced by the travelling Arabs, but it -soon degenerated. Cotton flourishes luxuriantly in the black -earths fat with decayed vegetation, and on the rich red clays of -the coast regions, of Usumbara, Usagara, and Ujiji, where water -underlies the surface. These almost virgin soils are peculiarly -fitted by atmospheric and geologic conditions for the development -of the shrub, and the time may come when vast tracts, nearly -half the superficies of the lands, here grass-grown, there cumbered -by the primæval forest, may be taught to bear crops equalling -the celebrated growths of Egypt and Algeria, Harar and -Abyssinia. At present the cultivation is nowhere encouraged, -and it is limited by the impossibility of exportation to the scanty -domestic requirements of the people. It is grown from seed -sown immediately after the rains, and the only care given to it -is the hedging requisite to preserve the dwarf patches from the -depredations of cattle. In some parts the shrub is said to wither -after the third year, in others to be perennial.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-418">[418]</span></p> - -<p>Upon the coast the cotton grown by the Wasawahili and -Wamrima is chiefly used as lamp-wicks and for similar domestic -purposes; Zanzibar Island is supplied from Western India. The -price of raw uncleaned cotton in the mountain regions is about -0·25 dollar per maund of 3 Arab lbs. In Zanzibar, where the -msufi or bombax abounds, its fibrous substance is a favourite -substitute for cotton, and costs about half the price. In Unyamwezi -it fetches fancy prices; it is sold in handfuls for salt, beads, -and similar articles. About 1 maund may be purchased for a -shukkah, and from 1 to 2 oz. of rough home-spun yarn for a -fundo of beads. At Ujiji the people bring it daily to the bazar -and spend their waste time in spinning yarn with the rude implements -before described. This cotton, though superior in -quality, as well as quantity, to that of Unyanyembe, is but little -less expensive.</p> - -<p>Tobacco grows plentifully in the more fertile regions of East -Africa. Planted at the end of the rains, it gains strength by -sun and dew, and is harvested in October. It is prepared for -sale in different forms. Everywhere, however, a simple sun-drying -supplies the place of cocking and sweating, and the people -are not so fastidious as to reject the lower or coarser leaves and -those tainted by the earth. Usumbara produces what is considered -at Zanzibar a superior article: it is kneaded into little -circular cakes four inches in diameter by half an inch deep: rolls -of these cakes are neatly packed in plantain-leaves for exportation. -The next in order of excellence is that grown in Uhiáo: -it is exported in leaf or in the form called kambari, “roll-tobacco,” -a circle of coils each about an inch in diameter. The people of -Khutu and Usagara mould the pounded and wetted material into -discs like cheeses, 8 or 9 inches across by 2 or 3 in depth, and -weighing about 3 lbs.; they supply the Wagogo with tobacco, -taking in exchange for it salt. The leaf in Unyamwezi generally -is soft and perishable, that of Usukuma being the worst: it -is sold in blunt cones, so shaped by the mortars in which they -are pounded. At Karagwah, according to the Arabs, the tobacco, -a superior variety, tastes like musk in the water-pipe. The produce -of Ujiji is better than that of Unyamwezi; it is sold in leaf, -and is called by the Arabs hamúmí, after a well-known growth -in Hazramaut. It is impossible to assign an average price to -tobacco in East Africa; it varies from 1 khete of coral beads -per 6 oz. to 2 lbs.</p> - -<p>Tobacco is chewed by the maritime races, the Wasawahili, and -especially the Zanzibar Arabs, who affect a religious scruple -about smoking. They usually insert a pinch of nurah or coral-lime -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-419">[419]</span> -into their quids,—as the Somal introduces ashes,—to make -them bite; in the interior, where calcareous formations are deficient, -they procure the article from cowries brought from the -coast, or from shells found in the lakes and streams. About -Unyamwezi all sexes and ages enjoy the pipe. Farther eastward -snuff is preferred. The liquid article in fashion amongst the -Wajiji has already been described. The dry snuff is made of -leaf toasted till crisp and pounded between two stones, mixed -with a little magádí or saltpetre, sometimes scented with the -heart of the plantain-tree and stored in the tumbakira or -gourd-box.</p> - -<p>The other articles exported from the coast to Zanzibar are -bees’-wax and honey, tortoiseshell and ambergris, ghee, tobacco, -the sugar-cane, the wild arrowroot, gums, and fibrous substances; -of these many have been noticed, and the remainder are of too -trifling a value to deserve attention.</p> - -<p>To conclude the subject of commerce in East Africa. It is -rather to the merchant than to the missionary that we must -look for the regeneration of the country by the development of -her resources. The attention of the civilized world, now turned -towards this hitherto neglected region, will presently cause -slavery to cease; man will not risk his all in petty and passionless -feuds undertaken to sell his weaker neighbour; and -commerce, which induces mansuetude of manners, will create -wants and interests at present unknown. As the remote is -gradually drawn nigh, and the difficult becomes accessible, the -intercourse of man—strongest instrument of civilisation in the -hand of Providence—will raise Africa to that place in the -great republic of nations from which she has hitherto been -unhappily excluded.</p> - -<p>Already a line of steam navigation from the Cape of Good -Hope to Aden and the Red Sea, touching at the various important -posts upon the mainland and the islands of East Africa, -has been proposed. This will be the first step towards material -improvement. The preceding pages have, it is believed, convinced -the reader that the construction of a tramroad through a -country abounding in timber and iron, and where only one pass -of any importance presents itself, will be attended with no -engineering difficulties. As the land now lies, trade stagnates, -loanable capital remains idle, produce is depreciated, and new -seats of enterprise are unexplored. The specific for existing -evils is to be found in facilitating intercourse between the -interior and the coast, and that this will in due season be effected -we may no longer doubt.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-420">[420]</span></p> - -<h3 class="appno nobreak">APPENDIX II.</h3> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<hr class="sec x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<h4>FIRST CORRESPONDENCE.</h4> - -<h5>1.</h5> - -<p class="wherewhen">“East India House, 13th September, 1856.</p> - -<p>“Sir,—I am commanded by the Court of Directors of the -East India Company to inform you, that, in compliance with -the request of the Royal Geographical Society, you are permitted -to be absent from your duties as a regimental officer -whilst employed with an Expedition, under the patronage of -Her Majesty’s Government, to be despatched into Equatorial -Africa, for the exploration of that country, for a period not -exceeding two years. I am directed to add, that you are permitted -to draw the pay and allowances of your rank during the -period of your absence, which will be calculated from the date -of your departure from Bombay.</p> - -<p class="signature"><span class="padr24">“I am, Sir,</span><br /> -“Your most obedient humble Servant,<br /> -<span class="padr6">“(Signature illegible.)</span></p> - -<p class="towhom">“Lieutenant <span class="smcap">R. Burton</span>.”</p> - -<hr class="sec x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<h5>2.</h5> - -<p class="wherewhen">“East India House, 24th October, 1856.</p> - -<p>“Sir,—In consequence of a communication from the office -of the Secretary of State for War, intimating that you are -required as a witness on the trial by Court-Martial now -pending on Colonel A. Shirley, I am desired to convey to you -the commands of the Court of Directors that you instantly -return to London for that purpose. In obeying this order, -you are required to proceed, not through France, but by the -steamer direct from Alexandria to Southampton. You will -report yourself to the Secretary of State for War immediately -on your arrival. The agent for the East India Company in -Egypt has received instructions by this mail to supply you with -the necessary funds for your passage.</p> - -<p class="signature"><span class="padr24">“I am, Sir,</span><br /> -“Your most obedient humble Servant,<br /> -<span class="padr4">“(Signed) <span class="smcap">James Melville</span>.</span></p> - -<p class="towhom">“Lieutenant <span class="smcap">Burton</span>.”</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-421">[421]</span></p> - -<hr class="sec x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<h5>3.</h5> - -<p class="center highline15">“<i>The Military Secretary, East India House.</i></p> - -<p class="wherewhen">“Aden, 14th November.</p> - -<p>“Sir,—I have the honour to acknowledge your official letter -of the 24th October, conveying to me the commands of the -Court of Directors to return instantly to London by the -steamer direct from Alexandria to Southampton.</p> - -<p>“The steamer in question left Alexandria on November 6th, -at about 10 a.m. I received and acknowledged from the -British Consulate your official letter on the same day at Cairo, -about noon. No steamer leaves Alexandria before the 20th -inst.; it is therefore evident that I could not possibly obey the -order within the limits specified.</p> - -<p>“No mention was made about my returning to England by -the next steamer, probably because the Court-Martial pending -upon Colonel A. Shirley will before that time have come to a -close. I need scarcely say, that should I, on arrival at Bombay, -find an order to that effect, it shall be instantly and implicitly -obeyed.</p> - -<p>“Considering, however, that I have already stated all that I -know upon the subject of the Court-Martial in question—that -I was not subpœnaed in England—that I am under directions -of the Royal Geographical Society, and employed with an -Expedition under the patronage of the Foreign Office—that -without my proceeding to Bombay, valuable Government -property would most probably have been lost, and the preparations -for the Expedition have suffered from serious delay—and -lastly, that by the loss of a few weeks a whole year’s -exploration must be allowed to pass by—I venture respectfully -to hope that I have taken the proper course, and that should I, -on my arrival in India, find no express and positive order for -an immediate return to Europe, I may be permitted to proceed -forthwith to Africa.</p> - -<p>“As a servant of the East India Company, in whose interests -I have conscientiously and energetically exerted myself for the -space of 14 years, I cannot but request the Court of Directors -to use their powerful influence in my behalf. Private interests -cannot be weighed against public duty. At the same time, I -have already embarked a considerable sum in the materiel of -the Expedition, paid passage money, and devoted time, which -might otherwise have been profitably employed, to the subject -of Equatorial Africa. I remained long enough in London to -enable the War Office to call for my presence as a witness, -and I ascertained personally from Major-General Beatson that -he had not placed me upon his list. And finally, I venture to -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-422">[422]</span> -observe, that by returning to Europe now, I should be compromising -the interests of the Royal Geographical Society, under -which I am in fact virtually serving.”</p> - -<hr class="sec x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<h5>4.</h5> - -<p class="center highline15">“<i>To the Secretary of the Royal Geographical Society, London.</i></p> - -<p>“Sir,—I have the honour to forward, for the information of -the President and members of the Expeditionary Committee, -a copy of a communication to my address from the Military -Secretary to the Court of Directors, together with my reply -thereto. On perusal of these documents, you will perceive that -my presence is urgently demanded in England to give evidence -on a Court-Martial, and that the letter desiring me to proceed -forthwith to England arrived too late in Egypt to admit of my -obeying that order. Were I now to proceed directly from -Bombay to England, it is evident that the Expedition which I -am undertaking under your direction, must be deferred to a -future and uncertain date. With a view to obviate this -uncalled-for delay, I have the honour to request that you will -use your interest to the effect that, as an officer virtually in -your service, I may be permitted to carry out the views of your -Society; and that my evidence, which can be of no importance -to either prosecutor or defendant in the Court-Martial in -question, may be dispensed with. I start this evening for -Bombay, and will report departure from that place.</p> - -<p class="signature"><span class="padr8">“I have, &c.,</span><br /> -<span class="padr2">“<span class="smcap">R. F. Burton</span>.</span></p> - -<p class="towhom">“Camp, Aden, 14th November, 1856.”</p> - -<hr class="sec x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<h5>5.</h5> - -<p class="center highline15">“<i>To the Secretary of the Royal Geographical Society, London.</i></p> - -<p>“Sir,—I have the honour to inform you that on the 1st Dec. -1856, I addressed to you a letter which I hope has been duly received. -On the 2nd instant, in company with Lt. Speke, I -left Bombay Harbour, on board the H.E.I.C’s. ship of war -‘<i>Elphinstone</i>’ (Capt. Frushard, I.N., commanding), <i>en route</i> -to East Africa. I have little to report that may be interesting -to geographers; but perhaps some account of political affairs in -the Red Sea may be deemed worthy to be transmitted by you -to the Court of Directors or to the Foreign Office.</p> - -<p>“As regards the Expedition, copies of directions and a memorandum -on instruments and observations for our guidance have -come to hand. For observations, Lt. Speke and I must depend -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-423">[423]</span> -upon our own exertions, neither serjeants nor native students -being procurable at the Bombay Observatory. The case of -instruments and the mountain barometer have not been forwarded, -but may still find us at Zanzibar. Meanwhile I have -obtained from the Commanding Engineer, Bombay, one six-inch -sextant, one five and a-half ditto, two prismatic compasses, -five thermometers (of which two are B.P.), a patent log, taper, -protractors, stands, &c.; also two pocket chronometers from the -Observatory, duly rated; and Dr. Buist, Secretary, Bombay -Geographical Society, has obliged me with a mountain barometer -and various instructions about points of interest. Lt. -Speke has been recommended by the local government to the -Government of India for duty in East Africa, and the services -of Dr. Steinhaeuser, who is most desirous to join us, have been -applied for from the Medical Board, Bombay. I have strong -hopes that both these officers will be allowed to accompany me, -and that the Royal Geographical Society will use their efforts -to that effect.</p> - -<p>“By the subjoined detailed account of preliminary expenses at -Bombay, it will be seen that I have expended £70 out of £250, -for which I was permitted to draw.</p> - -<p>“Although, as I before mentioned, the survey of Eastern Intertropical -Africa has for the moment been deferred, the necessity -still exists. Even in the latest editions of <i>Horsburgh</i>, the -mass of matter relative to Zanzibar is borrowed from the observations -of Capt. Bissel, who navigated the coast in H.M’s. -ships ‘<i>Leopard</i>’ and ‘<i>Orestes</i>’ about <span class="smcapall">A.D.</span> 1799. Little is -known of the great current which, setting periodically from and -to the Red Sea and the Persian Gulf, sweeps round the Eastern -Horn of Africa. The reefs are still formidable to navigators; -and before these seas can be safely traversed by steamers from -the Cape, as is now proposed, considerable additions must be -made to Capt. Owen’s survey in <span class="smcapall">A.D.</span> 1823-24. Finally, operations -on the coast will form the best introduction to the geographical -treasures of the interior.</p> - -<p>“The H.E.I. Company’s surveying brig ‘<i>Tigris</i>’ will shortly -be out of dock, where she has been undergoing a thorough -repair, and if fitted up with a round house on the quarter-deck -would answer the purpose well. She might be equipped in a -couple of months, and dispatched to her ground before the -South-west Monsoon sets in, or be usefully employed in observing -at Zanzibar instead of lying idle in Bombay Harbour. On -former surveys of the Arabian and African Coasts, a small tender -of from thirty to forty tons has always been granted, as -otherwise operations are much crippled in boisterous weather -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-424">[424]</span> -and exposed on inhospitable shores. Should no other vessel be -available, one of the smallest of the new Pilot Schooners now -unemployed at Bombay might be directed to wait upon the -‘<i>Tigris</i>.’ Lt. H. G. Fraser, I.N., has volunteered for duty -upon the African Coast, and I have the honour to transmit his -letter. Nothing more would be required were some junior -officer of the Indian Navy stationed at Zanzibar for the purpose -of registering tidal, barometric, and thermometric observations, -in order that something of the meteorology of this unknown -region may be accurately investigated.</p> - -<p>“When passing through Aden I was informed that the -blockade of the Somali Coast had been raised without compensation -for the losses sustained on my last journey. This step -appears, politically speaking, a mistake. In the case of the -‘<i>Mary Ann</i>’ brig, plundered near Berberah in <span class="smcapall">A.D.</span> 1825, due -compensation was demanded and obtained. Even in India, an -officer travelling through the states not under British rule, can, -if he be plundered, require an equivalent for his property. This -is indeed our chief protection,—semi-barbarians and savages -part with money less willingly than with life. If it be determined -for social reasons at Aden that the blockade should -cease and mutton become cheap, a certain per-centage could be -laid upon the exports of Berberah till such time as our losses, -which, including those of government, amount to 1380<i>l.</i>, are -made good.</p> - -<p>“From Harar news has reached Aden that the Amir Abubakr, -dying during the last year of chronic consumption, has -been succeeded by a cousin, one Abd el Rahman, a bigoted -Moslem, and a violent hater of the Gallas. His success in -feud and foray, however, have not prevented the wild tribes -from hemming him in, and unless fortune interfere, the city -must fall into their hands. The rumour prevalent at Cairo, -namely, that Harar had been besieged and taken by Mr. Bell, -now serving under ‘Theodorus, Emperor of Ethiopia’ (the -chief Cássái), appears premature. At Aden I met in exile -Sharmarkay bin Ali Salih, formerly governor of Zayla. He -has been ejected in favour of a Dankali chief by the Ottoman -authorities of Yemen, a circumstance the more to be regretted -as he has ever been a firm friend to our interests.</p> - -<p>“The present defenceless state of Berberah still invites our -presence. The eastern coast of the Red Sea is almost entirely -under the Porte. On the western shore, Cosseir is Egyptian, -Masawwah, Sawakin, and Zayla, Turkish, and Berberah, the -best port of all, unoccupied. I have frequently advocated the -establishment of a British agency at this place, and venture to -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-425">[425]</span> -do so once more. This step would tend to increase trade, to -obviate accidents in case of shipwreck, and materially assist in -civilizing the Somal of the interior. The Government of Bombay -has doubtless preserved copies of my reports, plans, and -estimates concerning the proposed agency, and I would request -the Royal Geographical Society to inquire into a project peculiarly -fitted to promote their views of exploration in the Eastern -Horn of Africa. Finally, this move would checkmate any ambitious -projects in the Red Sea. The Suez Canal may be said -to have commenced. It appears impossible that the work should -pay in a commercial sense. Politically it may, if, at least, its -object be, as announced by the Count d’Escayrac de Lauture, -at the Société de Geographie, to ‘throw open the road of India -to the Mediterranean coasting trade, to democratise commerce -and navigation.’ The first effect of the highway would be, as -that learned traveller justly remarks, to open a passage through -Egypt to the speronari and feluccas of the Levant, the light -infantry of a more regular force.</p> - -<p>“The next step should be to provide ourselves with a -more efficient naval force at Aden, the Head-Quarters of the -Red Sea Squadron. I may briefly quote as a proof of the -necessity for protection, the number of British protégés in the -neighbouring ports, and the present value of the Jeddah trade.</p> - -<p>“Mocha now contains about twenty-five English subjects, the -principal merchants in the place. At Masawwah, besides a few -French and Americans, there are from sixteen to twenty British -protégés, who trade with the interior, especially for mules -required at the Mauritius and our other colonies. Hodaydah -has from fifty to sixty, and Jeddah, besides its dozen resident -merchants, annually witnesses the transit of some hundreds -of British subjects, who flock to the Haj for commerce and -devotion.</p> - -<p>“The chief emporium of the Red Sea trade has for centuries -past been Jeddah, the port of Meccah. The custom-house -reports of 1856 were kindly furnished to me by Capt. Frushard, -I.N. (now commanding the H.E.I.C’s. sloop of war, -‘<i>Elphinstone</i>,’) an old and experienced officer, lately employed -in blockading Berberah, and who made himself instrumental in -quelling certain recent attempts upon Turkish supremacy in -Western Arabia. According to these documents, thirty-five -ships of English build (square-rigged) arrived at and left Jeddah -between the end of September and April, from and for various -places in the East, China, Batavia, Singapore, Calcutta, Bombay, -the Malabar Coast, the Persian Gulf, and Eastern Africa. -Nearly all carried our colours, and were protected, or supposed -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-426">[426]</span> -to be protected, by a British register: only five had on board -a European captain or sailing master, the rest being commanded -and officered by Arabs and Indians. Their cargoes -from India and the Eastern regions are rice, sugar, piece goods, -planking, pepper, and pilgrims; from Persia, dates, tobacco, -and raw silk; and from the Mozambique, ivory, gold dust, and -similar costly articles. These imports in 1856 are valued at -160,000<i>l.</i> The exports for the year, consisting of a little coffee -and spice for purchase of imports, amounts, per returns, to -120,000<i>l.</i> In addition to these square-rigged ships, the number -of country vessels, open boats, buggalows, and others, from the -Persian Gulf and the Indian Coasts, amount to 900, importing -550,000<i>l.</i>, and exporting about 400,000<i>l.</i> I may remark, that -to all these sums at least one-third should be added, as speculation -abounds, and books are kept by triple entry in the Holy -Land.</p> - -<p>“The next port in importance to Jeddah is Hodaydah, where -vessels touch on their way northward, land piece and other goods, -and call on the return passage to fill with coffee. As the head-quarters -of the Yemen Pashalik, it has reduced Mocha, formerly -the great coffee mart, to insignificance, and the vicinity of Aden, -a free port, has drawn off much of the stream of trade from both -these ancient emporia. On the African Coast of the Red Sea, -Sawakin, opposite Jeddah, is a mere slave mart, and Masawwah, -opposite Hodaydah, still trades in pearls, gold dust, ivory, and -mules.</p> - -<p>“But if the value of the Red Sea traffic calls, in the present -posture of events, for increased means of protection, the Slave-trade -has equal claims to our attention. At Aden energetic -efforts have been made to suppress it. It is, however, still -carried on by country boats from Sawakin, Tajurrah, Zayla, -and the Somali Coast;—a single cargo sometimes consisting of -200 head gathered from the interior, and exported to Jeddah -and the small ports lying north and south of it. The trade is, -I believe, principally in the hands of Arab merchants at Jeddah -and Hodaydah, and resident foreigners, principally Indian -Moslems, who claim our protection in case of disturbances, and -consequently carry on a thriving business. Our present Squadron -in the Red Sea consisting of only two sailing vessels, the -country boats in the African ports have only to wait till they -see the ship pass up or down, and then knowing the passage—a -matter of a day—to be clear, to lodge the slaves at their destination. -During the past year, this trade was much injured by -the revolt of the Arabs against the Turks, and the constant -presence of the ‘<i>Elphinstone</i>,’ whose reported object was to -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-427">[427]</span> -seize all vessels carrying slaves. The effect was principally -moral. Although the instructions for the guidance of the Commander -enjoined him to carry out the wishes of the Home and -Indian Governments for the suppression of Slavery, yet there -being no published treaty between the Imperial Government -and the Porte sanctioning to us the right of search in Turkish -bottoms, his interference would not have been supported by the -Ottoman local authorities. It may be well to state, that after a -Firman had been published in the Hejaz and Gemen abolishing -the trade, the Turkish Governments of Jeddah and Hodaydah -declared that the English Commander might do as he pleased, -but that they declined making any written request for his assistance. -For its present increased duties, for the suppression of -the Slave-trade, for the protection of British subjects, and -for the watching over Turkish and English interests in the Red -Sea, the Aden Squadron is no longer sufficient. During the -last two years it has numbered two sailing vessels, the ‘<i>Elphinstone</i>,’ -a sloop of war, carrying twelve 32-pounders, and two -12-pounders; and the ‘<i>Mahi</i>’ a schooner armed with one pivot -gun, 32-pounder, and two 12-pounders. Nor would it be benefited -by even a considerable increase of sailing vessels. It is -well known that, as the prevailing winds inside the sea are -favourable for proceeding upwards from September to April, so -on the return, during those months, they are strongly adverse. -A fast ship, like the ‘<i>Elphinstone</i>,’ requires 30 days on the -downward voyage to do the work of four. Outside the sea, -during those months, the current sets inward from the Indian -Ocean, and a ship, in event of very light winds falling, has been -detained a whole week in sight of Aden. From April to -September, on the contrary, the winds set down the Red Sea -frequently with violence; the current inside the sea also turns -towards the Indian Ocean, and outside the S.W. Monsoon is -blowing. Finally, sailing ships draw too much water. In -the last year the ‘<i>Elphinstone</i>’ kept the Arabs away from -Jeddah till the meanness of the Sherif Abd el Muttalib had -caused his downfall. But her great depth (about from 14-6 to -15 ft.) prevented her approaching the shore at Hodaydah near -enough to have injured the insurgents, who, unaware of the fact, -delayed their attack upon the town till famine and a consequent -pestilence dispersed them. With little increase of present expenditure, -the Red Sea might be effectually commanded. Two -screw-steamers, small enough to enter every harbour, and to -work steadily amongst the banks on either shore, and yet large -enough to be made useful in conveying English political officers -of rank and Native Princes, when necessary, would amply -suffice, a vessel of the class of H.M.’s gun-boat, ‘<i>Flying Fish</i>,’ -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-428">[428]</span> -drawing at most 9 feet water, and carrying four 32-pounders of -25 cwt. each, as broadside, and two 32-pounders of 25 cwt. each, -as pivot guns, would probably be that selected. The crews -would consist of fewer men than those at present required, and -means would easily be devised for increasing the accommodation -of officers and men, and for securing their health and comfort -during cruises that might last two months in a hot and dangerous -climate.</p> - -<p>“By means of two such steamers we shall, I believe, be -prepared for any contingencies which might arise in the Red -Sea; and if to this squadron be added an allowance for interpreters -and a slave approver in each harbour, in fact a few of -the precautions practised by the West African Squadron, the -slave-trade in the Red Sea will soon have received its death-blow, -and Eastern Africa its regeneration at our hands.</p> - -<p class="signature"><span class="padr14">“I have, &c., &c.,</span><br /> -<span class="padr8">“<span class="smcap">R. F. Burton</span>,</span><br /> -<span class="padr2 fsize90">“Commanding East African Expedition.</span></p> - -<p class="towhom">“H.E.I.C. Sloop of War ‘<i>Elphinstone</i>,’<br /> -<span class="padl6">“15th December, 1856.”</span></p> - -<hr class="sec x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<h5>6.</h5> - -<p class="wherewhen"><span class="padr4">No. 961 of 1857.</span></p> - -<p class="center highline15"><i>From</i> <span class="smcap">H. L. Anderson</span>, <i>Esquire, Secretary to Government, -Bombay, to</i> Captain <span class="smcap">R. F. Burton</span>, <i>18th Regiment Bombay -N. I.</i></p> - -<p class="wherewhen">Dated the 23rd July, 1857.</p> - -<p>“Sir,—With reference to your letter, dated the 15th December, -1856, to the address of the Secretary of the Royal -Geographical Society of London, communicating your views on -affairs in the Red Sea, and commenting on the political measures -of the Government of India, I am directed by the Right -Honourable the Governor in Council to state, your want of -discretion, and due respect for the authorities to whom you are -subordinate, has been regarded with displeasure by Government.</p> - -<p class="signature"><span class="padr14">“I have the honour to be, Sir,</span><br /> -<span class="padr14">“Your most obedient Servant,</span><br /> -<span class="padr6">“(Signed)<span class="padl2 padr2"> </span><span class="smcap">H. L. Anderson</span>,</span><br /> -<span class="padr2 fsize90">“Secretary to Government.</span></p> - -<p class="towhom">“Bombay Castle, 23rd July, 1857.”</p> - -<hr class="sec x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<h5>7.</h5> - -<p class="center highline15">THE MASSACRE AT JUDDAH.</p> - -<p class="center">(<i>Extract from the “Telegraph Courier,” Overland Summary, -Bombay, August 4, 1858.</i>)</p> - -<p>“On the 30th June, a massacre of nearly all the Christians -took place at Juddah on the Red Sea. Amongst the victims -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-429">[429]</span> -were Mr. Page, the British Consul, and the French Consul and -his lady. Altogether the Arabs succeeded in slaughtering about -twenty-five.</p> - -<p>“H.M. steamship Cyclops was there at the time, and the -captain landed with a boat’s crew, and attempted to bring off -some of the survivors, but he was compelled to retreat, not -without having killed a number of the Arabs. The next day, -however, he succeeded in rescuing the few remaining Christians, -and conveyed them to Suez.</p> - -<p>“Amongst those who were fortunate enough to escape was -the daughter of the French Consul; and this she succeeded in -doing through the fidelity of a native after she had killed -two men with her own hands, and been severely wounded in -the encounter. Telegraphic dispatches were transmitted to -England and France, and the Cyclops is waiting orders at Suez. -As it was apprehended that the news from Juddah might excite -the Arab population of Suez to the commission of similar outrages, -H.R.M’s Vice-Consul at that place applied to the Pasha -of Egypt for assistance, which was immediately afforded by the -landing of 500 Turkish soldiers, under the orders of the Pasha -of Suez.”</p> - -<hr class="sec x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<h5>8.</h5> - -<p class="wherewhen">“Unyanyembe, Central Africa, 24th June, 1858.</p> - -<p>“Sir,—I have the honour to acknowledge the receipt of -your official letter, No. 961 of 1857, conveying to me the displeasure -of the Government in consequence of my having communicated -certain views on political affairs in the Red Sea to -the R. G. S. of Great Britain.</p> - -<p>“The paper in question was as is directly stated, and it was -sent for transmission to the Board of Directors, or the Foreign -Office, not for publication. I beg to express my regret that -it should have contained any passages offensive to the authorities -to whom I am subordinate; and to assure the Right -Honourable the Governor in Council that nothing was farther -from my intentions than to displease a government to whose -kind consideration I have been, and am still, so much indebted.</p> - -<p>“In conclusion, I have the honour to remind you that I have -received no reply to my official letter, sent from Zanzibar, -urging our claims upon the Somal for the plunder of our property.</p> - -<p class="signature"><span class="padr16">“I have the honour to be, Sir,</span><br /> -<span class="padr10">“Your most obedient Servant,</span><br /> -<span class="padr4">“<span class="smcap">Richard. F. Burton</span>,</span><br /> -<span class="padr2 fsize90">“Commanding East African Expedition.</span></p> - -<p class="towhom">To the Secretary to Government, Bombay.”</p> - -<hr class="sec x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-430">[430]</span></p> - -<h5>9.</h5> - -<p class="center highline15 fsize90">No. 2845, of 1857.</p> - -<p class="wherewhen">“Political Department.</p> - -<p class="hind02 blankbefore75"><i>From</i> <span class="smcap">H. L. Anderson</span>, Esq., <i>Secretary to Government of -Bombay, to</i> Capt. <span class="smcap">R. F. Burton</span>, <i>Commanding E. A. Expedition, -Zanzibar</i>.</p> - -<p class="wherewhen blankbefore75">“Dated 13th June, 1857.</p> - -<p>“Sir,—I am directed by the Right Honourable the Governor -in Council to acknowledge the receipt of your letter dated the -26th April last, soliciting compensation on behalf of yourself -and the other members of the late Somalee Expedition, for -losses sustained by you and them.</p> - -<p><span class="sidenote">Having regard to the conduct of the Expedition, -His Lordship cannot think that the officers who -composed it have any just claims on the Government -for their personal losses.</span> -“2. In reply, I am desired to inform you, that under the -opinion copied in the margin, -expressed by the late Governor-General -of India, the -Right Honourable the Governor in Council cannot accede to -the application now preferred.</p> - -<p class="allclear signature"><span class="padr14">“I have, &c.,</span><br /> -<span class="padr4">“<span class="padr4">(Signed)</span><span class="smcap">H. L. Anderson</span>,</span><br /> -<span class="padr2 fsize90">“Secretary to Government.”</span></p> - -<p class="center highline4 blankbefore4 fsize80">END OF FIRST CORRESPONDENCE.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<h4>SECOND CORRESPONDENCE.</h4> - -<hr class="sec x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<h5>1.</h5> - -<p class="wherewhen">“India Office, E. C., 8th November, 1859.</p> - -<p>“Sir,—I am directed by the Secretary of State for India -in Council to forward for your information, copy of a letter addressed -by Captain Rigby, her Majesty’s Consul and agent at -Zanzibar, to the Government of Bombay, respecting the non-payment -of certain persons hired by you to accompany the Expedition -under your command into Equatorial Africa, and to request -that you will furnish me with any observations which you may -have to make upon the statements contained in that letter.</p> - -<p>“Sir Charles Wood especially desires to be informed why -you took no steps to bring the services of the men who accompanied -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-431">[431]</span> -you, and your obligations to them, to the notice of the -Bombay Government.</p> - -<p class="signature"><span class="padr24">“I am, Sir,</span><br /> -<span class="padr6">“Your obedient servant,</span><br /> -<span class="padr2">“<span class="padr4">(Signed)</span><span class="smcap">T. Cosmo Melville</span>.</span></p> - -<p class="towhom">“Captain R. Burton.”</p> - -<hr class="sec x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<h5>2.</h5> - -<p class="wherewhen"><span class="padr2">“No. 70 of 1859.</span><br /> -“Political Department.</p> - -<p class="hind02"><i>From</i> Captain <span class="smcap">C. P. Rigby</span>, <i>her Majesty’s Consul and British -agent, Zanzibar, to</i> <span class="smcap">H. L. Anderson</span>, <i>Esquire, Secretary to -Government, Bombay</i>.</p> - -<p class="wherewhen">“Zanzibar, July 15th, 1859.</p> - -<p>“Sir,—I have the honour to report, for the information of -the Right Honourable the Governor in Council, the following -circumstances connected with the late East African Expedition -under the command of Captain Burton.</p> - -<p>“2. Upon the return of Captain Burton to Zanzibar in -March last, from the interior of Africa, he stated that, from -the funds supplied him by the Royal Geographical Society for -the expenses of the Expedition, he had only a sufficient sum left -to defray the passage of himself and Captain Speke to England, -and in consequence the persons who accompanied the Expedition -from here, viz.: the Kafila Bashi, the Belooch Sepoys, -and the porters, received nothing whatever from him on their -return.</p> - -<p>“3. On quitting Zanzibar for the interior of Africa, the -expedition was accompanied by a party of Belooch soldiers, -consisting of a Jemadar and twelve armed men. I understand -they were promised a monthly salary of five dollars each; they -remained with the Expedition for twenty months, and as -they received nothing from Captain Burton beyond a few dollars -each before starting, his highness the Sultan has generously -distributed amongst them the sum of (2300) two thousand three -hundred dollars.</p> - -<p>“4. The head clerk of the Custom House here, a Banian, -by name Ramjee, procured ten men, who accompanied the Expedition -as porters; they were promised five dollars each per -mensem, and received pay for six months, viz.: thirty dollars -each before starting for the interior. They were absent for -twenty months, during three of which the Banian Ramjee states -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-432">[432]</span> -that they did not accompany the Expedition. He now claims -eleven months’ pay for each of these men, as they have not been -paid anything beyond the advance before starting.</p> - -<p>“5. The head clerk also states that after the Expedition left -Zanzibar, he sent two men to Captain Burton with supplies, -one of whom was absent with the Expedition seventeen months, -and received nothing whatever; the other, he states, was absent -fifteen months, and received six months’ pay, the pay for the -remaining nine months being still due to him. Thus his claim -amounts to the following <span class="nowrap">sums:—</span></p> - -<table class="claim" summary="Claim"> - -<tr> -<td>Ten</td> -<td>men for</td> -<td class="months">eleven</td> -<td>months,</td> -<td>at five dollars</td> -<td>per man,</td> -<td>per month,</td> -<td class="amount">550</td> -<td>Dollars.</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td>One</td> -<td>man for</td> -<td class="months">seventeen</td> -<td>„</td> -<td>„</td> -<td>„</td> -<td>„</td> -<td class="amount">85</td> -<td>„</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td>One</td> -<td>„</td> -<td class="months">nine</td> -<td>„</td> -<td>„</td> -<td>„</td> -<td>„</td> -<td class="amount">45</td> -<td>„</td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="4"> </td> -<td colspan="2">Total dollars</td> -<td> </td> -<td class="amount bt">680</td> -<td> </td> -</tr> - -</table> - -<p>“6. These men were slaves, belonging to ‘deewans,’ or petty -chiefs, on the opposite mainland. They travel far into the interior -to collect and carry down ivory to the coast, and are absent frequently -for the space of two or three years. When hired out, -the pay they receive is equally divided between the slave and -the master. Captain Speke informs me, that when these men -were hired, it was agreed that one-half of their hire should be -paid to the men, and the other half to Ramjee on account of -their owners. When Ramjee asked Captain Burton for their -pay, on his return here, he declined to give him anything, -saying that they had received thirty dollars each on starting, -and that he could have bought them for a less sum.</p> - -<p>“7. The Kafila Bashi, or chief Arab, who accompanied the -Expedition, by name Said bin Salem, was twenty-two months -with Captain Burton. He states, that on the first journey to -Pangany and Usumbara, he received fifty (50) dollars from -Captain Burton; and that before starting on the last expedition, -to discover the Great Lake, the late Lieutenant-Colonel -Hamerton presented him with five hundred dollars on behalf of -Government for the maintenance of his family during his -absence. He states that he did not stipulate for any monthly -pay, as Colonel Hamerton told him, that if he escorted the -gentlemen to the Great Lake in the interior, and brought them -in safety back to Zanzibar, he would be handsomely rewarded; -and both Captain Speke and Mr. Apothecary Frost inform me -that Colonel Hamerton frequently promised Said bin Salem -that he should receive a thousand dollars and a gold watch if -the Expedition were successful.</p> - -<p>“8. As it appeared to me that Colonel Hamerton had received -no authority from Government to defray any part of the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-433">[433]</span> -expenses of this Expedition, and probably made these promises -thinking that if the exploration of the unknown interior were -successful a great national object would be attained, and that -the chief man who conducted the Expedition would be liberally -rewarded, and as Captain Burton had been furnished with -funds to defray the expenses, I told him that I did not feel -authorised to make any payment without the previous sanction -of Government, and Said bin Salem has therefore received -nothing whatever since his return.</p> - -<p>“9. Said Bin Salem also states, that on the return of the -Expedition from Lake Tanganyika, (70) seventy natives of the -country were engaged as porters, and accompanied the Expedition -for three months; and that on arriving at a place called -‘Kootoo,’ a few days’ journey from the sea-coast, Captain Burton -wished them to diverge from the correct route to the coast -opposite Zanzibar, to accompany him south to Keelwa; but -they refused to do so, saying that none of their people ever -dared to venture to Keelwa; that the chief slave-trade on the -east coast is carried on. No doubt their fears were well -grounded. These men received nothing in payment for their -three months’ journey, and, as no white man had ever penetrated -into their country previously, I fear that any future -traveller will meet with much inconvenience in consequence of -these poor people not having been paid.</p> - -<p>“10. As I considered that my duty connected with the late -Expedition was limited to affording it all the aid and support in -my power, I have felt very reluctant to interfere with anything -connected with the non-payment of these men; but Said bin -Salem and Ramjee having appealed to me, and Captain Speke, -since his departure from Zanzibar, having written me two -private letters, pointing out so forcibly the claims of these men, -the hardships they endured, and the fidelity and perseverance -they showed, conducting them safely through unexplored -countries, and stating also that the agreements with them were -entered into at the British Consulate, and that they considered -they were serving the British Government, that I deem it my -duty to bring their claims to the notice of Government; for I -feel that if these men remain unpaid, after all they have -endured in the service of British officers, our name for good -faith in these countries will suffer, and that any future travellers -wishing to further explore the interesting countries of the -interior will find no persons willing to accompany them from -Zanzibar, or the opposite mainland.</p> - -<p>“11. As there was no British agent at Zanzibar for thirteen -months after the death of Colonel Hamerton, the Expedition -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-434">[434]</span> -was entirely dependent on Luddah Damha, the Custom-master -here, for money and supplies. He advanced considerable -sums of money without any security, forwarded all requisite -supplies, and, Captain Speke says, afforded the Expedition -every assistance, in the most handsome manner. Should -Government, therefore, be pleased to present him with a shawl, -or some small mark of satisfaction, I am confident he is fully -deserving of it, and it would gratify a very worthy man to find -that his assistance to the Expedition is acknowledged.</p> - -<p class="signature"><span class="padr14">“I have, &c.,</span><br /> -<span class="padr3">“(Signed) <span class="smcap">C. P. Rigby</span>, Captain,</span><br /> -<span class="padr2 fsize90">“H. M.’s Consul and British Agent, Zanzibar.”</span></p> - -<hr class="sec x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<h5>3.</h5> - -<p class="wherewhen">“East India United Service Club, St. James’s Square,<br /> -<span class="padr12">11th November, 1859.</span></p> - -<p>“Sir,—I have the honour to acknowledge the receipt of -your official letter, dated the 8th of November, 1859, forwarding -for my information copy of a letter, addressed by Captain -Rigby, Her Majesty’s consul and agent at Zanzibar, to the -Government of Bombay, respecting the non-payment of certain -persons, hired by me to accompany the Expedition under my -command into Equatorial Africa, and apprising me that Sir C. -Wood especially desires to be informed, why I took no steps to -bring the services of the men who accompanied me, and my -obligations to them, to the notice of the Bombay Government.</p> - -<p>“In reply to Sir Charles Wood I have the honour to state -that, as the men alluded to rendered me no services, and as I -felt in no way obliged to them, I would not report favourably -of them. The Kafilah Bashi, the Jemadar, and the Baloch -were servants of H.H. Sayyid Majid, in his pay and -under his command; they were not hired by me, but by the -late Lieut.-Col. Hamerton, H.M.’s Consul and H.E.I.C.’s -agent at Zanzibar, and they marched under the Arab flag. On -return to Zanzibar, I reported them as undeserving of reward -to Lieut.-Col. Hamerton’s successor, Capt. Rigby, and after -return to England, when my accounts were sent in to the -Royal Geographical Society, I appended a memorandum, that -as those persons had deserved no reward, no reward had been -applied for.</p> - -<p>“Before proceeding to reply to Capt. Rigby’s letter, paragraph -by paragraph, I would briefly premise with the following -remarks.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-435">[435]</span></p> - -<p>“Being ordered to report myself to Lieut.-Col. Hamerton, -and having been placed under his direction, I admitted his -friendly interference, and allowed him to apply to H.H. the -Sultan for a guide and an escort. Lieut.-Col. Hamerton -offered to defray, from public funds, which he understood to -be at his disposal, certain expenses of the Expedition, and he -promised, as reward to the guide and escort, sums of money, to -which, had I been unfettered, I should have objected as exorbitant. -But in all cases, the promises made by the late consul -were purely conditional, depending entirely upon the satisfactory -conduct of those employed. These facts are wholly -omitted in Capt. Rigby’s reports.</p> - -<p>“2. Capt. Rigby appears to mean that the Kafila Bashi, the -Baloch sepoys, and the porters received nothing whatever on -my return to Zanzibar, in March last, from the interior of -Africa, because the funds supplied to me by the Royal Geographical -Society for the Expenditure of the Expedition, had -been exhausted. Besides the sum of (1000<i>l.</i>) one thousand -pounds, granted by the Foreign Office, I had expended from -private resources nearly (1400<i>l.</i>) fourteen hundred pounds, and -I was ready to expend more had the expenditure been called for. -But, though prepared on these occasions to reward liberally for -good service, I cannot see the necessity, or rather I see the -unadvisability of offering a premium to notorious misconduct. -This was fully explained by me to Capt. Rigby on my return -to Zanzibar.</p> - -<p>“3. Capt. Rigby ‘<i>understands</i>’ that the party of Baloch -sepoys, consisting of a Jemadar and twelve armed men, were -promised a monthly salary of 5 dollars each. This was not the -case. Lieut.-Col. Hamerton advanced to the Jemadar 25, and -to each sepoy 20 dollars for an outfit; he agreed that I should -provide them with daily rations, and he promised them an -ample reward from the public funds in case of good behaviour. -These men deserved nothing; I ignore their ‘fidelity’ and -‘perseverance,’ and I assert that if I passed safely through an -unexplored country, it was in no wise by their efforts. On -hearing of Lieut.-Col. Hamerton’s death, they mutinied in -a body. At the Tanganyika Lake they refused to escort me -during the period of navigation, a month of danger and difficulty. -When Capt. Speke proposed to explore the Nyanza -Lake, they would not march without a present of a hundred -dollars’ worth of cloth. On every possible occasion they clamoured -for ‘Bakshish,’ which, under pain of endangering -the success of the Expedition, could not always be withheld. -They were often warned by me that they were forfeiting all -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-436">[436]</span> -hopes of a future reward, and, indeed, they ended by thinking -so themselves. They returned to Zanzibar with a number of -slaves, purchased by them with money procured from the Expedition. -I would not present either guide or escort to the -consul; but I did not think it my duty to oppose a large -reward, said to be 2,300 dollars, given to them by H.H. the -Sultan, and I reported his liberality and other acts of kindness -to the Bombay Government on my arrival at Aden. This fact -will, I trust, exonerate me from any charge of wishing to -suppress my obligations.</p> - -<p>“4. The Banyan Ramji, head clerk of the Custom House, did -not, as is stated by Capt. Rigby, procure me (10) ten men -who accompanied the Expedition as porters; nor were these -men, as is asserted, (in par. 6), ‘Slaves belonging to deewans -or petty chiefs on the opposite mainland.’ It is a notorious fact -that these men were private slaves, belonging to the Banyan -Ramjee, who hired them to me direct, and received from me as -their pay, for six months, thirty dollars each; a sum for which, -as I told him, he might have bought them in the bazaar. At -the end of six months I was obliged to dismiss these slaves, -who, as is usually the case with the slaves of Indian subjects -at Zanzibar, were mutinous in the extreme. At the same time -I supplied them with cloth, to enable them to rejoin their -patron. On my return from the Tanganyika Lake, they -requested leave to accompany me back to Zanzibar, which -I permitted, with the express warning that they were not to -consider themselves re-engaged. The Banyan, their proprietor, -had, in fact, sent them on a trading trip into the interior under -my escort, and I found them the most troublesome of the party. -When Ramji applied for additional pay, after my return to -Zanzibar, I told him that I had engaged them for six months; -that I had dismissed them at the end of six months, as was left -optional to me; and that he had already received an unusual -sum for their services. This conversation appears in a distorted -form and improperly represented in the concluding sentence of -Capt. Rigby’s 6th paragraph.</p> - -<p>“5 and 6. With respect to the two men sent on with supplies -after the Expedition had left Zanzibar, they were not -paid, on account of the prodigious disappearance of the goods -intrusted to their charge, as I am prepared to prove from the -original journals in my possession. They were dismissed with -their comrades, and never afterwards, to the best of my remembrance, -did a day’s work.</p> - -<p>“7 and 8. The Kafilah Bashi received from me for the first journey -to Usumbara (50) fifty dollars. Before my departure in the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-437">[437]</span> -second Expedition he was presented by Lieut. Colonel Hamerton -with (500) five hundred dollars, almost double what he had -expected. He was also promised, in case of good conduct, a gold -watch, and an ample reward, which, however, was to be left to -the discretion of his employers. I could not recommend him -through Captain Rigby to the Government for remuneration. -His only object seemed to be that of wasting our resources and -of collecting slaves in return for the heavy presents made to the -native chiefs by the Expedition, and the consequence of his -carelessness or dishonesty was, that the expenditure on the -whole march, until we had learnt sufficient to supervise him, -was inordinate. When the Kafilah Bashi at last refused to -accompany Captain Speke to the Nyanza Lake, he was warned -that he also was forfeiting all claim to future reward, and when -I mentioned this circumstance to Captain Rigby at Zanzibar, he -then agreed with me that the 500 dollars originally advanced -were sufficient.</p> - -<p>“9. With regard to the statement of Said bin Salim concerning -the non-payment of the seventy-three porters, I have to remark -that it was mainly owing to his own fault. The men did not refuse -to accompany me because I wished to diverge from the “correct -route,” nor was I so unreasonable as to expect them to venture -into the jaws of the slave trade. Several caravans that had -accompanied us on the down-march, as well as the porters -attached to the Expedition, were persuaded by the slaves of -Ramjee (because Zanzibar was a nearer way to their homes) not -to make Kilwa. The pretext of the porters was simply that -they would be obliged to march back for three days. An extra -remuneration was offered to them, they refused it, and left in a -body. Shortly before their departure Captain Speke proposed -to pay them for their services, but being convinced that they -might be prevented from desertion, I did not judge advisable by -paying them to do what would be virtually dismissing them. -After they had proceeded a few miles, Said bin Salim was sent -to recall them, on conditions which they would have accepted; -he delayed, lost time, and ended by declaring that he could not -travel without his dinner. Another party was instantly sent; -they also loitered on the way, and thus the porters reached the -coast and dispersed. Before their departure I rewarded the -Kirangozi, or chief man of the caravan, who had behaved well in -exhorting his followers to remain with us. I was delayed in a -most unhealthy region for the arrival of some down porters, -who consented to carry our goods to the coast; and to prove to -them that money was not my object, I paid the newly-engaged -gang as if they had marched the whole way. Their willingness -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-438">[438]</span> -to accompany me is the best proof that I had not lost the confidence -of the people. Finally, on arrival at the coast, I inquired -concerning those porters who had deserted us, and was informed -by the Diwan and headman of the village, that they had -returned to their homes in the interior, after a stay of a few days -on the seaboard. This was a regrettable occurrence, but such -events are common on the slave-path in Eastern Africa, and -the established custom of the Arabs and other merchants, -whom I had consulted upon the subject before leaving the -interior, is, not to encourage desertion by paying part of the -hire, or by settling for porterage before arriving at the coasts. -Of the seven gangs of porters engaged on this journey, only one, -an unusually small proportion, left me without being fully -satisfied.</p> - -<p>“10. That Said bin Salim, and Ramji, the Banyan, should -have appealed to Captain Rigby, according to the fashion of -Orientals, after my departure from Zanzibar, for claims which -they should have advanced when I refused to admit them, I am -not astonished. But I must express my extreme surprise that -Captain Speke should have written two private letters, forcibly -pointing out the claims of these men to Captain Rigby, without -having communicated the circumstance in any way to me, the -chief of the Expedition. I have been in continued correspondence -with that officer since my departure from Zanzibar, and -until this moment I have been impressed with the conviction -that Captain Speke’s opinion as to the claims of the guide and -escort above alluded to was identical with my own.</p> - -<p>“11. With respect to the last paragraph of Captain Rigby’s -letter, proposing that a shawl or some small mark of satisfaction -should be presented by Government to Ladha Damha, -the custom-master at Zanzibar, for his assistance to the Expedition, -I distinctly deny the gratuitous assertions that I was entirely -dependent on him for money and supplies; that he advanced -considerable sums of money without any security; that he -forwarded all requisite supplies, or, as Captain Speke affirms, -that he afforded the Expedition every assistance in the most -handsome manner. Before quitting Zanzibar for inner Africa, -I settled all accounts with him, and left a small balance in his -hands, and I gave, for all subsequent supplies, an order upon -Messrs. Forbes, my agents in Bombay. He, like the other -Hindus at Zanzibar, utterly neglected me after the death of -Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton; and Captain Rigby has probably -seen some of the letters of complaint which were sent by -me from the interior. In fact, my principal merit in having -conducted the Expedition to a successful issue is in having contended -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-439">[439]</span> -against the utter neglect of the Hindus at Zanzibar -(who had promised to Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton, in return -for his many good offices, their interest and assistance), and -against the carelessness and dishonesty, the mutinous spirit and -the active opposition of the guide and escort.</p> - -<p>“I admit that I was careful that these men should suffer for -their misconduct. On the other hand, I was equally determined -that those who did their duty should be adequately -rewarded,—a fact which nowhere appears in Captain Rigby’s -letter. The Portuguese servants, the negro-gun carriers, the -several African gangs of porters, with their leaders, and all -other claimants, were fully satisfied. The bills drawn in the -interior, from the Arab merchants, were duly paid at Zanzibar, -and on departure I left orders that if anything had been neglected -it should be forwarded to me in Europe. I regret that -Captain Rigby, without thoroughly ascertaining the merits of -the case (which he evidently has not done), should not have -permitted me to record any remarks which I might wish to -offer, before making it a matter of appeal to the Bombay -Government.</p> - -<p>“Finally, I venture to hope that Captain Rigby has forwarded -the complaints of those who have appealed to him without -endorsing their validity; and I trust that these observations -upon the statements contained in his letter may prove that -these statements were based upon no foundation of fact.</p> - -<p class="signature"><span class="padr20">“I am, Sir,</span><br /> -<span class="padr6">“Your obedient Servant,</span><br /> -<span class="padr4">“<span class="smcap">R. F. Burton</span>,</span><br /> -<span class="padr2 fsize90">“Bombay Army.”</span></p> - -<hr class="sec x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<h5>4.</h5> - -<p class="wherewhen">“India Office, E. C., 14th January, 1860.</p> - -<p>“Sir,—I am directed by the Secretary of State for India -in council, to inform you that, having taken into consideration -the explanations afforded by you in your letter of the 11th -November, together with the information on the same subject -furnished by Captain Speke, he is of opinion that it was -your duty, knowing, as you did, that demands for wages, on -the part of certain Belochs and others who accompanied you -into Equatorial Africa, existed against you, not to have left -Zanzibar without bringing these claims before the consul there, -with a view to their being adjudicated on their own merits, the -more especially as the men had been originally engaged through -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-440">[440]</span> -the intervention or the influence of the British authorities, -whom, therefore, it was your duty to satisfy before leaving the -country. Had this course been followed, the character of the -British Government would not have suffered, and the adjustment -of the dispute would, in all probability, have been effected -at a comparatively small outlay.</p> - -<p>“Your letter, and that of Captain Speke, will be forwarded -to the Government of Bombay, with whom it will rest to determine -whether you shall be held pecuniarily responsible for the -amount which has been paid in liquidation of the claims against -you.</p> - -<p class="signature"><span class="padr12">“I am, Sir,</span><br /> -<span class="padr6">“Your obedient Servant,</span><br /> -<span class="padr2"><span class="padr4">“(Signed)</span><span class="smcap">J. Cosmo Melvill</span>.”</span></p> - -<hr class="sec x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<h5>5.</h5> - -<p>“Sir,—I have the honour to acknowledge the receipt of -your official letter of the 14th January, 1860.</p> - -<p>“In reply, I have the honour to observe that, not having -been favoured with a copy of the information on the same subject -furnished to you by Captain Speke, I am not in a position to -understand on what grounds the Secretary of State for India in -council should have arrived at so unexpected a decision as regards -the alleged non-payment of certain claims made by certain -persons sent with me into the African interior.</p> - -<p>“I have the honour to observe that I did not know that -demands for wages existed against me on the part of those -persons, and that I believed I had satisfactorily explained the -circumstances of their dismissal without payment in my official -letter of the 11th November, 1859.</p> - -<p>“Although impaired health and its consequences prevented -me from proceeding in an official form to the adjudication of the -supposed claims in the presence of the consular authority, I -represented the whole question to Captain Rigby, who, had he -then—at that time—deemed it his duty to interfere, might have -insisted upon adjudicating the affair with me, or with Captain -Speke, before we left Zanzibar.</p> - -<p>“I have the honour to remark that the character of the British -Government has <i>not</i>, and cannot (in my humble opinion) -have suffered in any way by my withholding a purely conditional -reward when forfeited by gross neglect and misconduct; -and I venture to suggest that by encouraging such abuses serious -obstacles will be thrown in the way of future exploration, -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-441">[441]</span> -and that the liberality of the British Government will be more -esteemed by the native than its character for sound sense.</p> - -<p>“In conclusion, I venture to express my surprise, that all my -labours and long services in the cause of African Exploration -should have won for me no other reward than the prospect of -being mulcted in a pecuniary liability incurred by my late -lamented friend, Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton, and settled without -reference to me by his successor, Captain Rigby.</p> - -<p class="signature"><span class="padr14">“I have the honour, &c. &c.,</span><br /> -<span class="padr12">“<span class="smcap">Richd. F. Burton</span>,</span><br /> -<span class="padr2 fsize90">“Captain, Bombay Army.”</span></p> - -<p class="towhom">“The Under Secretary of State for India.”</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-443">[443]</span></p> - -<h2 class="chapno gesp2">INDEX.</h2> - -</div><!--chapter--> - -<ul class="index"> - -<li class="newletter">Abad bin Sulayman, rest of the party at the house of, at Kazeh, i. 323.</li> - -<li>Abdullah, the Baloch, sketch of him, i. 136.</li> - -<li>Abdullah bin Nasib, of Zanzibar, his kindness, i. 270.</li> - -<li>Abdullah bin Jumah, and his flying caravan, i. 315.</li> - -<li>Abdullah bin Salim of Kazeh, his authority there, i. 329.</li> - -<li>Abdullah, son of Musa Mzuri, <a href="#Pageii-225">ii. 225</a>, <a href="#Pageii-226">226</a>.</li> - -<li>Ablactation, period of, in East Africa, i. 117.</li> - -<li>Abrus precatorius used as an ornament in Karagwah, <a href="#Pageii-181">ii. 181</a>.</li> - -<li>Adansonia digitata, or monkey-bread of East Africa, peculiarity of, i. 47.</li> - -<li>Africa, Central, great depression of, i. 409; <a href="#Pageii-8">ii. 8</a>.</li> - -<li>African proverbs, i. 131.</li> - -<li>Africans, a weak-brained people, i. 33.</li> - -<li>Africans, East, their character and religion, <a href="#Pageii-324">ii. 324</a>.</li> - -<li>Albinos, frequency of, amongst the Wazaramo tribes, i. 109. -Description of them, 109.</li> - -<li>Amayr bin Said el Shaksi, calls on Capt. Burton, <a href="#Pageii-228">ii. 228</a>. -His adventures, <a href="#Pageii-228">228</a>.</li> - -<li>Ammunition, danger of, in African travelling, i. 264.</li> - -<li>Androgyne, the, <a href="#Pageii-159">ii. 159</a>.</li> - -<li>Animals, wild, of Uzaramo, i. 63. -Of Dut’humi, 87. -Of Zungomero, 95. -Of the Mrima, 103, 104. -Of K’hutu, 160. -Of the Usagara mountains, 162. -Of the plains beyond the Rufuta, 181, 183. -Of Ugogi, 242. -Of the road to Ugogo, 247. -In Ugogo, 300. -Of Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-15">ii. 15</a>. -Of Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-60">60</a>.</li> - -<li>Antelopes in the Doab of the Mgeta river, i. 81. -In the Rufuta plains, 183. -Of East Africa, 268, 269. -On the Mgunda Mk’hali, 289. -Of Ugogo, i. 300.</li> - -<li>Ant-hills of East Africa, i. 202, 203. -In Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-19">ii. 19</a>. -Clay of, chewed in Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-28">28</a>.</li> - -<li>Anthropophagi of Murivumba, <a href="#Pageii-114">ii. 114</a>.</li> - -<li>Ants in the Doab of the Mgeta river, i. 82. -Red, of the banks of rivers in East Africa, 186. -Maji m’oto, or “hot water” ants, 187. -Near the Marenga Mk’hali river, 201. -Account of them, 202. -Annoyance of, at K’hok’ho, 276. -Of Rubuga, 317. -Of East Africa, 371. -Of Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-19">ii. 19</a>. -Of Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-64">64</a>.</li> - -<li>Apples’ wood, at Mb’hali, i. 401.</li> - -<li>Arab caravans, description of, in East Africa, i. 342.</li> - -<li>Arab proverbs, i. 50, 86, 133, -135.</li> - -<li>Arabs of the East coast of Africa, i. 30. -The half-castes described, 32. -Those settled in Unyanyembe, 323. -History and description of their settlements, 327. -Tents of, on their march, 353.</li> - -<li>Arachis Hypogæa, as an article of food, i. 198.</li> - -<li>Arak tree in Ugogo, i. 300.</li> - -<li>Archery in East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-301">ii. 301</a>.</li> - -<li>Armanika, Sultan of Karagwah, account of, <a href="#Pageii-183">ii. 183</a>. -His government, <a href="#Pageii-183">183</a>, <a href="#Pageii-184">184</a>. -Besieged by his brother, <a href="#Pageii-224">ii. 224</a>.</li> - -<li>Arms of the Wazaramo, i. 110. -Of the Wadoe, 124. -Of the Baloch mercenaries, 133. -Of the “Sons of Ramji,” 140. -Required for the expedition, 152. -Of the Wasagara tribe, 199, 237. -Of the Wahehe, 240. -Of the Wagogo, 304. -Of the Wahamba, 312. -Of the porters of caravans, 350. -Of the Wakimbu, <a href="#Pageii-20">ii. 20</a>. -Of the Wanzamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-30">30</a>. -Of the Wajiji, <a href="#Pageii-66">66</a>. -Of the Wavinza, <a href="#Pageii-75">75</a>. -Of the Watuta, <a href="#Pageii-77">77</a>. -Of the people of Karagwah, <a href="#Pageii-182">182</a>.</li> - -<li>Army of Uganda, <a href="#Pageii-189">ii. 189</a>.</li> - -<li>Artémise frigate, i. 1.</li> - -<li>Atmosphere, brilliancy of the, in Ugogo, i. 297.</li> - -<li>Asclepias in the Usagara mountains<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-444">[444]</span>, i. 165.</li> - -<li>Ashmed bin Nuuman, the Wajhayn or “two faces,” i. 3.</li> - -<li>Assegais of the Wasagara tribe, i. 237. -Of the Wanyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-22">ii. 22</a>. -Of East Africa generally, <a href="#Pageii-301">301</a>.</li> - -<li>Ass, the African, described, i. 85. -Those of the expedition, 151. -Loss of, 180. -Fresh asses purchased from a down caravan, 209.</li> - -<li>Asthma, or zik el nafas, remedy in East Africa for, i. 96.</li> - -<li>Atheism, aboriginal, <a href="#Pageii-342">ii. 342</a>.</li> - -<li class="newletter">Bakera, village of, i. 92.</li> - -<li>Bakshshish, in the East, <a href="#Pageii-84">ii. 84</a>, <a href="#Pageii-85">85</a>. -The propriety of rewarding bad conduct, <a href="#Pageii-85">85</a>. -Influence of, <a href="#Pageii-172">ii. 172</a>.</li> - -<li>Balochs, the, of Zanzibar, described, i. 14. -Their knavery, 85. -Their behaviour on the march, 127. -Sketch of their character, 132. -Their quarrels with the “Sons of Ramji,” 163. -Their desertion and return, 173. -Their penitence, 177. -Their character, 177, 178. -Their discontent and complaints about food, 212, 221. -And proposed desertion, 273, 278. -Their bile cooled, 274. -Their injury to the expedition, 319. -Their breakfast on the march, 345. -Their manœuvres at Kazeh, 376. -Their desertion, <a href="#Pageii-111">ii. 111</a>. -Influenced by bakhshish, <a href="#Pageii-217">217</a>. -Their quarrel with the porters, <a href="#Pageii-253">253</a>. -Doing “Zam,” <a href="#Pageii-276">ii. 276</a>. -Sent home, <a href="#Pageii-277">277</a>.</li> - -<li>Bana Dirungá, village of, i. 71.</li> - -<li>Banadir, Barr el, or harbour-land, geography of, i. 30.</li> - -<li>Bangwe, islet of, in Lake Tanganyika, <a href="#Pageii-53">ii. 53</a>. -Described, <a href="#Pageii-99">99</a>.</li> - -<li>Banyans, the, of the East Coast of Africa, i. 19.</li> - -<li>Baobab Tree of East Africa, i. 47.</li> - -<li>Barghash, Sayyid, of Zanzibar, a state prisoner at Bombay, i. 3.</li> - -<li>Barghumi, the, of East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-294">ii. 294</a>.</li> - -<li>Bark-cloth, price of, at Uvira, <a href="#Pageii-121">ii. 121</a>.</li> - -<li>Basket making in East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-316">ii. 316</a>.</li> - -<li>Basts of East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-317">ii. 317</a>.</li> - -<li>Battle-axes of the Wanyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-23">ii. 23</a>. -Of the East Africans, <a href="#Pageii-307">307</a>.</li> - -<li>Bazar-gup, or tittle-tattle in the East, i. 12.</li> - -<li>Bdellium Tree, or Mukl, of Ugogo, i. 299. -Uses of, among the Wagogo, 300.</li> - -<li>Beads, mode of carrying, in the expedition, i. 145. -Account of African beads of commerce, 146. -Currency at Msene, 398. -Those most highly valued in Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-72">ii. 72</a>. -Bead trade of Zanzibar, <a href="#Pageii-390">390</a>.</li> - -<li>Bedding required for the expedition, i. 154.</li> - -<li>Beds and bedding of the East Africans, i. 370.</li> - -<li>Beef, roast, and plum-pudding at Msene, i. 400.</li> - -<li>Bee-hives, seen for the first time at Marenga Mk’hali, i. 200. -Their shape, 200. -Of Rubuga, 317.</li> - -<li>Beer in East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-285">ii. 285</a>. -Mode of making it, <a href="#Pageii-286">286</a>.</li> - -<li>Bees in K’hutu, i. 120. -But no bee-hives, 120. -Wild, attack the caravan, i. 176, 248, 249. -Annoyance of, at K’hok’ho, 276. -Of East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-287">ii. 287</a>.</li> - -<li>Beetles in houses at Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-91">ii. 91</a>, <i>note</i>. -One in the ear of Captain Speke, <a href="#Pageii-91">91</a>, <i>note</i>.</li> - -<li>Belok, the Baloch, sketch of him, i. 135.</li> - -<li>Bérard, M., his kindness, i. 22.</li> - -<li>Berberah, disaster at, referred to, i. 68.</li> - -<li>Bhang plant, the, in Zungomero, i. 95. -Smoked throughout East Africa, 96. -Effects produced by, 96. -Used in Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-70">ii. 70</a>.</li> - -<li>Billhooks carried by the Wasagara tribe, i. 238.</li> - -<li>Birds, mode of catching them, i. 160. -Scarcity of, in East Africa, 270. -Of Ugogo, 300. -Period of nidification and incubation of, <a href="#Pageii-13">ii. 13</a>. -Of Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-16">16</a>. -Of Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-60">60</a>.</li> - -<li>Births and deaths amongst the Wazaramo, customs at, i. 115, 116, -118, 119.</li> - -<li>Bivouac, a pleasant, i. 245.</li> - -<li>Black Magic. See <a href="#IndRef1">Uchawi</a>.</li> - -<li id="IndRef2">Blackmail of the Wazaramo, i. 70, 113. -Of the Wak’hutu, 121. -Of the Wazegura, 125. -At Ugogo, 252. -Account of the blackmail of East Africa, 253. -At Kirufuru, 264. -At Kanyenye, 265. -In K’hok’ho, 274. -At Mdaburu, 279. -At Wanyika, 407. -At Ubwari island, <a href="#Pageii-114">ii. 114</a>.</li> - -<li>Blood of cattle, drunk in East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-282">ii. 282</a>.</li> - -<li>Boats of the Tanganyika Lake, described, <a href="#Pageii-94">ii. 94</a>.</li> - -<li>Boatmen of the Tanganyika Lake, <a href="#Pageii-101">ii. 101</a>.</li> - -<li>Bomani, “the stockade,” village of, i. 47. -Halt at, 47. -Vegetation of, 47, 48. -Departure from, 51.</li> - -<li>Bombax, or silk cotton tree, of Uzaramo, i. 60.</li> - -<li>Bonye fiumara, accident to a caravan in the, <a href="#Pageii-270">ii. 270</a>.</li> - -<li>Books required for the expedition, i. 155.</li> - -<li>Borassus flabelliformis, or Palmyra tree, in the plains, i. 180. -Toddy drawn from, 181.</li> - -<li>Bos Caffer, or Mbogo, in the plains of East -Africa<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-445">[445]</span>, i. 181. -Described, 181. -In Ugogo, 300.</li> - -<li>Botanical collection stolen, i. 319. -Difficulty of taking care of the collection on the upward march, 320. -Destroyed by damp at Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-81">ii. 81</a>.</li> - -<li>Boulders of granite on the Mgunda Mk’hali, i. 284. -Picturesque effects of the, 285, 286.</li> - -<li>Bows and arrows of the Wagogo, i. 504. -Of the Wanyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-22">ii. 22</a>. -Of the East Africans, <a href="#Pageii-301">301</a>. -Poisoned arrows, <a href="#Pageii-305">305</a>.</li> - -<li>Brab tree, or Ukhindu, of the Mrima, i. 48.</li> - -<li>Breakfast in the caravan described, i. 345. -An Arab’s, at Kazeh, <a href="#Pageii-167">ii. 167</a>.</li> - -<li>Buffaloes on the road to Ugogo, i. 247. -In Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-15">ii. 15</a>. -On the Rusugi river, <a href="#Pageii-40">ii. 40</a>.</li> - -<li>Bumbumu, Sultan, of the Wahehe, i. 239.</li> - -<li>Burial ceremonies of the Wanyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-25">ii. 25</a>.</li> - -<li>Burkene, route to, <a href="#Pageii-179">ii. 179</a>.</li> - -<li>Burton, Captain, quits Zanzibar Island, i. 1.</li> -<li class="level1">The personnel and materiel of the expedition, i. 3, 10, -11.</li> -<li class="level1">Smallness of the grant allowed by government, i. 4, <i>note</i>.</li> -<li class="level1">The author’s proposal to the Royal Geographical Society, i. 5.</li> -<li class="level1">Anchors off Wale Point, i. 8.</li> -<li class="level1">His difficulties, i. 19.</li> -<li class="level1">His MS. lost, i. 21.</li> -<li class="level1">Melancholy parting with Col. Hamerton, i. 22.</li> -<li class="level1">Lands at Kaole, i. 22.</li> -<li class="level1">Melancholy reflections, i. 24.</li> -<li class="level1">Transit of the valley of the Kingani and the Mgeta rivers, i. 41.</li> -<li class="level1">The first departure, i. 43, 46.</li> -<li class="level1">Tents pitched at Bomani, i. 51.</li> -<li class="level1">Delay the second, i. 49.</li> -<li class="level1">Departure from Bomani, i. 51.</li> -<li class="level1">Arrives at the village of Mkwaju la Mvuani, i. 52.</li> -<li class="level1">The third departure, i. 53.</li> -<li class="level1">Halt at Nzasa, in Uzaramo, i. 54.</li> -<li class="level1">Start again, i. 57.</li> -<li class="level1">First dangerous station, i. 59.</li> -<li class="level1">Second one, i. 63.</li> -<li class="level1">Adventure at Makutaniro, i. 70.</li> -<li class="level1">Author attacked by fever, i. 71.</li> -<li class="level1">Third dangerous station, i. 73.</li> -<li class="level1">Encamps at Madege Madogo, i. 79.</li> -<li class="level1">And at Kidunda, i. 79.</li> -<li class="level1">Loses his elephant-gun, i. 80.</li> -<li class="level1">Arrives at a place of safety, i. 81.</li> -<li class="level1">Enters K’hutu, i. 82.</li> -<li class="level1">Has a hammam, i. 82.</li> -<li class="level1">Thoroughly prostrated, i. 84.</li> -<li class="level1">His troubles, i. 86.</li> -<li class="level1">Prepares a report for the Royal Geographical Society, i. 89.</li> -<li class="level1">Advances from Dut’humi, i. 91.</li> -<li class="level1">Halts at Zungomero, i. 127.</li> -<li class="level1">Leaves Zungomero, i. 158.</li> -<li class="level1">Arrives at Mzizi Mdogo, i. 161.</li> -<li class="level1">Recovery of health at, i. 161.</li> -<li class="level1">Leaves Mzizi Mdogo, i. 165.</li> -<li class="level1">Halts at Cha K’henge, i. 167.</li> -<li class="level1">Desertion of the Baloch, i. 173.</li> -<li class="level1">Their return, i. 174.</li> -<li class="level1">Halts at Muhama, i. 178.</li> -<li class="level1">Again attacked by fever, i. 179.</li> -<li class="level1">Resumes the march, i. 180.</li> -<li class="level1">Contrasts in the scenery, i. 184.</li> -<li class="level1">Fords the Mukondokwa river, i. 188.</li> -<li class="level1">Reaches Kadetamare, i. 189.</li> -<li class="level1">Loss of instruments, i. 189.</li> -<li class="level1">Halts at Muinyi, i. 193.</li> -<li class="level1">Resumes the journey, i. 194.</li> -<li class="level1">Halts at Ndábi, i. 196.</li> -<li class="level1">Resumes the march and rests at Rumuma, i. 198.</li> -<li class="level1">Abundance of its supplies, i. 198.</li> -<li class="level1">Reaches Marenga Mk’hali, i. 203.</li> -<li class="level1">Approaches the bandit Wahumba, i. 203.</li> -<li class="level1">Leaves Marenga Mk’hali, i. 204.</li> -<li class="level1">Halts at the basin of Inenge, i. 208.</li> -<li class="level1">Wholesome food obtained there, i. 208.</li> -<li class="level1">Exchange of civilities with a down caravan, i. 208.</li> -<li class="level1">Painful ascent of the Rubeho, or Windy Pass, i. 213.</li> -<li class="level1">Halt at the Great Rubeho, i. 215.</li> -<li class="level1">Ascent of the Little Rubeho, i. 215.</li> -<li class="level1">Descent of the counterslope of the Usagara mountains, i. 219.</li> -<li class="level1">First view of the Ugogo mountains, i. 220.</li> -<li class="level1">Halts at the third Rubeho, i. 221.</li> -<li class="level1">Marches on the banks of the Dungomaro, i. 222.</li> -<li class="level1">Reaches the plains of Ugogo, i. 223.</li> -<li class="level1">Losses during the descent, i. 224.</li> -<li class="level1">Halts at Ugogi, i. 241.</li> -<li class="level1">Engages the services of fifteen Wanyamwezi porters, i. 244.</li> -<li class="level1">Leaves Ugogi, i. 244.</li> -<li class="level1">The caravan dislodged by wild bees, i. 248.</li> -<li class="level1">Loses a valuable portmanteau, i. 249.</li> -<li class="level1">Halts on the road for the night, i. 250.</li> -<li class="level1">Leaves the jungle-kraal, i. 250.</li> -<li class="level1">Sights the Ziwa, or Pond, i. 251.</li> -<li class="level1">Provisions obtained there, i. 255.</li> -<li class="level1">Recovery of the lost portmanteau, i. 257.</li> -<li class="level1">Joins another up-caravan, i. 257, 258.</li> -<li class="level1">Enters Ugogo<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-446">[446]</span>, i. 259.</li> -<li class="level1">Astonishment of the Wagogo, i. 263.</li> -<li class="level1">Delayed at Kifukuru for blackmail, i. 264.</li> -<li class="level1">Leaves Kifukuru, i. 265.</li> -<li class="level1">Accident in the jungle, i. 265.</li> -<li class="level1">Interview with Magomba, sultan of Kanyenye, i. 266.</li> -<li class="level1">Hurried march from Kanyenye, i. 271.</li> -<li class="level1">Arrives at Usek’he and K’hok’ho, i. 272.</li> -<li class="level1">Difficulties of blackmail at K’hok’ho, i. 274.</li> -<li class="level1">Departs from K’hok’ho, i. 275.</li> -<li class="level1">Desertion of fifteen porters, i. 275.</li> -<li class="level1">Trying march in the Mdáburu jungle, i. 277.</li> -<li class="level1">Reaches Uyanzi, i. 279.</li> -<li class="level1">Traverses the Fiery Field, i. 283.</li> -<li class="level1">Arrives at the Mabunguru fiumara, i. 285.</li> -<li class="level1">Losses on the march, i. 285.</li> -<li class="level1">Reaches Jiwe la Mkoa, i. 286, 288.</li> -<li class="level1">And Kirurumo and Jiweni, i. 289.</li> -<li class="level1">Marches to Mgono T’hembo, i. 290.</li> -<li class="level1">Arrives at the Tura Nullah, i. 291.</li> -<li class="level1">And at the village of Tura, the frontier of Unyamwezi, i. 292, -313.</li> -<li class="level1">Proceeds into Unyamwezi, i. 314.</li> -<li class="level1">Halts at the Kwale nullah, i. 315.</li> -<li class="level1">Visited by Abdullah bin Jumah and his flying caravan, i. 315.</li> -<li class="level1">And by Sultan Maura, i. 316.</li> -<li class="level1">Reaches Ukona, i. 318.</li> -<li class="level1">Leaves Ukona and halts at Kigwa or Mkigwa, i. 319.</li> -<li class="level1">Enters the dangerous Kigwa forest, i. 319.</li> -<li class="level1">Loss of papers there, i. 319.</li> -<li class="level1">Reaches the rice-lands of the Unyamyembe district, i. 321.</li> -<li class="level1">Enters Kazeh in grand style, i. 322.</li> -<li class="level1">Hospitality of the Arabs there, i. 323.</li> -<li class="level1">Difficulties of the preparations for recommencing the journey, i. 377.</li> -<li class="level1">Sickness of the servants, i. 379.</li> -<li class="level1">Author attacked by fever, i. 380.</li> -<li class="level1">Leaves Kazeh and proceeds to Zimbili, i. 386.</li> -<li class="level1">Proceeds and halts at Yombo, i. 386, 387.</li> -<li class="level1">Leaves Yombo and reaches Pano and Mfuto, i. 389.</li> -<li class="level1">Halts at Irora, i. 389.</li> -<li class="level1">Marches to Wilyankuru, i. 390.</li> -<li class="level1">Hospitality of Salim bin Said, i. 391.</li> -<li class="level1">And of Masid ibn Musallam el Wardi, at Kirira, i. 392.</li> -<li class="level1">Leaves Kirira, and marches to Msene, i. 395.</li> -<li class="level1">Delayed there, i. 399.</li> -<li class="level1">Marches to the village of Mb’hali, i. 401.</li> -<li class="level1">And to Sengati and the deadly Sorora, i. 401.</li> -<li class="level1">Desertions and dismissals at Sorora, i. 402.</li> -<li class="level1">Marches to Kajjanjeri, i. 403.</li> -<li class="level1">Detained there by dangerous illness, i. 403.</li> -<li class="level1">Proceeds and halts at Usagozi, i. 406.</li> -<li class="level1">Some of the party afflicted by ophthalmia, i. 406.</li> -<li class="level1">Quits Usagozi, and marches to Masenza, i. 406, 407.</li> -<li class="level1">Reaches the Mukozimo district, i. 407.</li> -<li class="level1">Spends a night at Rukunda, i. 407.</li> -<li class="level1">Sights the plain of the Malagarazi river, i. 407.</li> -<li class="level1">Halts at Wanyika, i. 407.</li> -<li class="level1">Settlement of blackmail at, i. 408.</li> -<li class="level1">Resumes the march, i. 408.</li> -<li class="level1">Arrives at the bank of the Malagarazi river, i. 408.</li> -<li class="level1">Crosses over to Mpete, i. 410.</li> -<li class="level1">Marches to Kinawani, <a href="#Pageii-35">ii. 35</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">And to Jambeho, <a href="#Pageii-36">ii. 36</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Fords the Rusugi river, <a href="#Pageii-37">ii. 37</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Fresh desertions, <a href="#Pageii-38">ii. 38</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Halts on the Ungwwe river, <a href="#Pageii-40">ii. 40</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">First view of the Tanganyika Lake, <a href="#Pageii-42">ii. 42</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Arrives at Ukaranga, <a href="#Pageii-44">ii. 44</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">And at Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-46">ii. 46</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Visits the headman Kannena, <a href="#Pageii-81">ii. 81</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Incurs his animosity, <a href="#Pageii-82">ii. 82</a>, <a href="#Pageii-84">84</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Ill effects of the climate and food of Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-85">ii. 85</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Captain Speke sent up the Lake, <a href="#Pageii-87">ii. 87</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Mode of spending the day at Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-87">ii. 87</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Failure of Capt. Speke’s expedition, <a href="#Pageii-90">ii. 90</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">The author prepares for a cruise, <a href="#Pageii-93">ii. 93</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">The voyage, <a href="#Pageii-99">ii. 99</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Halts and encamps at Kigari, <a href="#Pageii-101">ii. 101</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Enters the region of Urundi, <a href="#Pageii-101">ii. 101</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Reaches and halts at Wafanya, <a href="#Pageii-106">ii. 106</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Sails for the island of Ubwari, <a href="#Pageii-112">ii. 112</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Anchors there, <a href="#Pageii-113">ii. 113</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Leaves there and arrives at Murivumba, <a href="#Pageii-114">ii. 114</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Reaches the southern frontier of Uvira, <a href="#Pageii-115">ii. 115</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Further progress stopped, <a href="#Pageii-117">ii. 117</a>, <a href="#Pageii-119">119</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Returns, <a href="#Pageii-121">ii. 121</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Storm on the Lake, <a href="#Pageii-123">ii. 123</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Passes the night at Wafanya, <a href="#Pageii-123">ii. 123</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">A slave accidentally shot there<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-447">[447]</span>, -<a href="#Pageii-124">ii. 124</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Returns to Kawele, <a href="#Pageii-124">ii. 124</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Improvement in health, <a href="#Pageii-129">ii. 129</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">The outfit reduced to a minimum, <a href="#Pageii-130">ii. 130</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Arrival of supplies, but inadequate, <a href="#Pageii-132">ii. 132</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Preparations for the return to Unyanyembe, <a href="#Pageii-155">ii. 155</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">The departure, <a href="#Pageii-157">ii. 157</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">The return-march, <a href="#Pageii-160">ii. 160</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Pitches tents at Uyonwa, <a href="#Pageii-161">ii. 161</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Desertions, <a href="#Pageii-161">ii. 161</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Returns to the ferry of the Malagarazi, <a href="#Pageii-164">ii. 164</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Marches back to Unyanyembe, <a href="#Pageii-165">ii. 165</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Halts at Yombo, <a href="#Pageii-166">ii. 166</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Re-enters Kazeh, <a href="#Pageii-167">ii. 167</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Sends his companion on an expedition to the north, <a href="#Pageii-173">ii. 173</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">His mode of passing time at Kazeh, <a href="#Pageii-173">ii. 173</a>, <a href="#Pageii-198">198</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Preparations for journeying, <a href="#Pageii-200">ii. 200</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Shortness of funds, <a href="#Pageii-221">ii. 221</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Outfit for the return, <a href="#Pageii-229">ii. 229</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Departs from Kazeh, <a href="#Pageii-231">ii. 231</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Halts at Hanga, <a href="#Pageii-232">ii. 232</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Leaves Hanga, <a href="#Pageii-240">ii. 240</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Returns through Ugogo, <a href="#Pageii-244">ii. 244</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">The letters with the official “wigging,” <a href="#Pageii-247">ii. 247</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Takes the Kiringawana route, <a href="#Pageii-249">ii. 249</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Halts at a den of thieves, <a href="#Pageii-252">ii. 252</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">And at Maroro, <a href="#Pageii-255">ii. 255</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Marches to Kiperepeta, <a href="#Pageii-256">ii. 256</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Fords the Yovu, <a href="#Pageii-258">ii. 258</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Halts at Ruhembe rivulet, <a href="#Pageii-261">ii. 261</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">And on the Makata plain, <a href="#Pageii-262">ii. 262</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Halts at Uziraha, <a href="#Pageii-263">ii. 263</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Returns to Zungomero, <a href="#Pageii-264">ii. 264</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Proposes a march to Kilwa, <a href="#Pageii-265">ii. 265</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Desertion of the porters, <a href="#Pageii-266">ii. 266</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Engages fresh ones, <a href="#Pageii-267">ii. 267</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Leaves Zungomero, and resumes the march, <a href="#Pageii-276">ii. 276</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Re-enters Uzaramo, <a href="#Pageii-277">ii. 277</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">And Konduchi, <a href="#Pageii-278">ii. 278</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Sights the sea, <a href="#Pageii-278">ii. 278</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Sets out for Kilwa, <a href="#Pageii-372">ii. 372</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Returns to Zanzibar, <a href="#Pageii-379">ii. 379</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Leaves Zanzibar for Aden, <a href="#Pageii-384">ii. 384</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Returns to Europe, <a href="#Pageii-384">ii. 384</a>.</li> - -<li>Butter in East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-284">ii. 284</a>.</li> - -<li class="newletter">Cacti in the Usagara Mountains, i. 165. -Of Mgunda M’Khali, 286.</li> - -<li>Calabash-tree of East Africa, described, i. 147. -In the Usagara mountains, i. 164, -229. -Magnificence of, at Ugogo, 260. -The only large tree in Ugogo, 299.</li> - -<li>Camp furniture required for the expedition, i. 152.</li> - -<li>Cannibalism of the Wadoe tribe, i. 123. -Of the people of Murivumba, <a href="#Pageii-114">ii. 114</a>.</li> - -<li>Cannabis Indica in Unyamwezi, i. 318.</li> - -<li>Canoes built of mvule trees, <a href="#Pageii-147">ii. 147</a>. -Mode of making them, <a href="#Pageii-147">147</a>.</li> - -<li>Canoes on the Malagarazi river, i. 409. -On the “Ghaut,” 411.</li> - -<li>Capparis sodata, verdure of the, in Ugogo, i. 300.</li> - -<li>Carriage, cost of, in East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-414">ii. 414</a>.</li> - -<li>Caravans of ivory, i. 17. -Slave caravans, 17, 62. -Mode of collecting a caravan in East Africa, 143. -Attacked by wild bees, 4, 176. -And by small-pox, 179. -In East Africa, description of, 337. -Porters, 337-339. -Seasons for travelling, 339. -The three kinds of caravan, 341. -That of the Wanyamwezi, 341. -Those made up by the Arab merchants, 342. -Those of the Wasawahili, &c., 344. -Sketch of a day’s march of an East African caravan, 344. -Mode of forming a caravan, 348. -Dress of the caravan, 349. -Ornaments and arms worn by the porters, 349. -Recreations of the march, 350. -Meeting of two caravans, 351. -Halt of a caravan, 351. -Lodgings on the march, 353. -Cooking, 355, 356. -Greediness of the porters, 356, 357. -Water, 359. -Night, 359. -Dances of the porters, 360. -Their caravan, 361, 362. -Rate of caravan travelling, 362. -Custom respecting caravans in Central Africa, <a href="#Pageii-54">ii. 54</a>. -Those on the Uruwwa route, <a href="#Pageii-148">148</a>. -Accident to a, <a href="#Pageii-270">270</a>.</li> - -<li>Carissa Carandas, the Corinda bush in Uzaramo, i. 60.</li> - -<li>Carpentering in East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-309">ii. 309</a>.</li> - -<li>Carvings, rude, of the Wanyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-26">ii. 26</a>.</li> - -<li>Castor plants of East Africa, i. 48. -Mode of extracting the oil, 48.</li> - -<li>Cats, wild, in Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-15">ii. 15</a>.</li> - -<li>Cattle, horned, of Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-59">ii. 59</a>. -Of Karagwah, <a href="#Pageii-181">181</a>.</li> - -<li>Cattle trade of East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-413">ii. 413</a>.</li> - -<li>Cereals of East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-414">ii. 414</a>.</li> - -<li>Ceremoniousness of the Wajiji, <a href="#Pageii-69">ii. 69</a>.</li> - -<li>Ceremony and politeness, miseries of, in the East, i. 392.</li> - -<li>Cha K’henge, halt of the party at, i. 167.</li> - -<li>Chamærops humilis, or Nyara tree, of the Mrima, f. 48.</li> - -<li>Chawambi, Sultan of Unyoro, <a href="#Pageii-198">ii. 198</a>.</li> - -<li>Chhaga, <a href="#Pageii-179">ii. 179</a>.</li> - -<li>Chiefs of the Wazaramo, i. 113.</li> - -<li>Chikichi, or palm oil, trade in, at Wafanya<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-448">[448]</span>, -<a href="#Pageii-107">ii. 107</a>.</li> - -<li>Childbirth, ceremonies of, in Unyamwezi <a href="#Pageii-23">ii. 23</a>. -Twins, <a href="#Pageii-23">23</a>.</li> - -<li>Children, mode of carrying, in Uzaramo, i. 110.</li> - -<li>Children, Wasagara mode of carrying, i. 237.</li> - -<li>Children, mode of carrying amongst the Wanyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-22">ii. 22</a>.</li> - -<li>Children, education of, in Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-23">ii. 23</a>, <a href="#Pageii-24">24</a>.</li> - -<li>Chomwi, or headman, of the Wamrima, i. 16. -His privileges, 16, 17.</li> - -<li>Chumbi, isle of, i. 1.</li> - -<li>Chunga Mchwa, or ant, of the sweet red clay of East Africa, described, i. 201, -202.</li> - -<li>Chungo-fundo or siyafu, or pismires of the river banks of East Africa, described, i. 186.</li> - -<li>Chyámbo, the locale of the coast Arabs, i. 397.</li> - -<li>Circumcision, not practised by the Wazaramo, i. 108. -Nor in the Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-23">ii. 23</a>.</li> - -<li>Clay chewed, when tobacco fails, in Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-28">ii. 28</a>.</li> - -<li>Climate of—</li> -<li class="level1">Bomani, i. 49.</li> -<li class="level1">Dut’humi, i. 89, 92.</li> -<li class="level1">East Africa, during the wet season, i. 379.</li> -<li class="level1">Inenge, i. 208.</li> -<li class="level1">Kajjanjeri, <a href="#Pageii-403">ii. 403</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Karagwah, <a href="#Pageii-180">ii. 180</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Kawele, <a href="#Pageii-130">ii. 130</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Kirira, i. 394.</li> -<li class="level1">Kuingani, i. 44.</li> -<li class="level1">Marenga Mk’hali, i. 203.</li> -<li class="level1">Mrima, i. 102, 104.</li> -<li class="level1">Msene, i. 400.</li> -<li class="level1">Mohama, i. 179.</li> -<li class="level1">Mzizi Mdogo, i. 161.</li> -<li class="level1">Rumuma, i. 199.</li> -<li class="level1">Sorora, i. 401.</li> -<li class="level1">Tanganyika Lake, i. 142.</li> -<li class="level1">Ugogo, i. 243, 259, 297.</li> -<li class="level1">Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-81">ii. 81</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-8">ii. 8-14</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Usagara, i. 221, 222, 231.</li> -<li class="level1">Wafanya, <a href="#Pageii-107">ii. 107</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Zungomero, i. 94, <a href="#Pageii-127">127</a>, <a href="#Pageii-156">156</a>, -<a href="#Pageii-161">161</a>, <a href="#Pageii-163">163</a>.</li> - -<li>Cloth, mode of carrying, in the expedition, i. 145. -As an article of commerce, 148.</li> - -<li>Clothing required for the expedition, i. 154. -Of travellers in East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-201">ii. 201</a>.</li> - -<li>Clouds in Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-12">ii. 12</a>.</li> - -<li>Cockroaches in houses in East Africa, i. 370.</li> - -<li>Cocoa-nut, use of the, in East Africa, i. 36.</li> - -<li>Cocoa-tree, its limits inland, i. 160.</li> - -<li>Coffee, wild, or mwami, of Karagwah, <a href="#Pageii-180">ii. 180</a>, <a href="#Pageii-181">181</a>, -<a href="#Pageii-187">187</a>.</li> - -<li>Commando, pitiable scene presented after one, i. 185.</li> - -<li>Commerce of the Mrima, i. 39. -Of Zungomero, 95. -Of Uzaramo, 119. -Of Ugogo, 308. -Of the Wanyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-29">ii. 29</a>. -Of the Nyanza Lake, <a href="#Pageii-215">215</a>. -African, <a href="#Pageii-224">224</a>. -Of Ubena, <a href="#Pageii-270">270</a>. -Of Uvira, <a href="#Pageii-120">ii. 120</a>. -Of East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-387">387</a>.</li> - -<li>Conversation, specimen of, in East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-243">ii. 243</a>, <a href="#Pageii-244">244</a>.</li> - -<li>Copal tree, or Msandarusi, of Uzaramo, i. 63.</li> - -<li>Copal trade of East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-403">ii. 403</a>.</li> - -<li>Copper in Katata, <a href="#Pageii-148">ii. 148</a>. -In East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-312">312</a>.</li> - -<li>Cotton in Unyamwezi, i. 318. -In Ujiji, i. 57. -In East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-417">417</a>.</li> - -<li>Cowhage on the banks of the Mgeta river, i. 166.</li> - -<li>Cowries of Karagwah, <a href="#Pageii-185">ii. 185</a>. -Of East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-416">416</a>.</li> - -<li>Crickets of the Usagara mountains, i. 162. -House, in East Africa, i. 370.</li> - -<li>Crocodiles of the Kingani river, i. 56. -In Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-15">ii. 15</a>. -In the Sea of Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-60">60</a>. -Of the Ruche River, <a href="#Pageii-158">158</a>.</li> - -<li>Crops of the Mrima, i. 102, <i>et seq</i>.</li> - -<li>Cucumbers at Marenga Mk’hali, i. 201. -Wild, of Unyanyembe, <a href="#Pageii-285">ii. 285</a>.</li> - -<li>Cultivation in the Mukondokwa hills, i. 196, 197. -In the Usagara mountains, 229.</li> - -<li>Currency of East Africa, stock may be recruited at Kazeh, i. 334. -Of Msene, i. 398. -Of Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-73">ii. 73</a>. -Of Karagwah, <a href="#Pageii-185">185</a>. -Of Ubena, <a href="#Pageii-270">270</a>. -Cynhyænas of Ugogo, i. 302. -In Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-15">ii. 15</a>.</li> - -<li>Cynocephalus, the, in Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-15">ii. 15</a>. -The terror of the country, <a href="#Pageii-15">15</a>.</li> - -<li class="newletter">Dancing of the Wazaramo women, i. 55. -African, described, 360; <a href="#Pageii-291">ii. 291</a>, <a href="#Pageii-298">298</a>.</li> - -<li>Darwayash, the Baloch, sketch of him, i. 137.</li> - -<li>“Dash,” i. 58. -<i>See</i> <a href="#IndRef2">Blackmail</a>.</li> - -<li>Datura plant of Zungomero, i. 95. -Smoked in East Africa, 96. -In Unyamwezi, 318.</li> - -<li>Day, an African’s mode of passing the, <a href="#Pageii-289">ii. 289</a>, <a href="#Pageii-290">290</a>.</li> - -<li>Death, African fear of, <a href="#Pageii-331">ii. 331</a>.</li> - -<li>Defences of the Wazaramo, i. 111, 117.</li> - -<li>Dege la Mhora, “the large jungle bird,” village of, i. 72. -Fate of M. Maizan at, 73.</li> - -<li>Det’he, or Kidete of East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-293">ii. 293</a>.</li> - -<li>Devil’s trees of East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-353">ii. 353</a>.</li> - -<li>Dialects of the Wazaramo, i. 107. -The Wagogo, 306. -The Wahumba, 311. -The Wanyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-5">ii. 5</a>. -The Wakimbu, <a href="#Pageii-20">20</a>. -The Wanyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-30">30</a>.</li> - -<li>Diseases of the maritime region of East Africa<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-449">[449]</span>, i. 105. -Of the people of Usagara, 233. -Of Ugogo, 299. -Of caravans in East Africa, 342. -Of Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-11">ii. 11</a>, <a href="#Pageii-13">13</a>, <a href="#Pageii-14">14</a>. -Of East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-318">318</a>. -Remedies, <a href="#Pageii-321">321</a>. -Mystical remedies, <a href="#Pageii-352">352</a>, <a href="#Pageii-353">353</a>.</li> - -<li>Dishdasheh, El, or turban of the coast Arabs, i. 32.</li> - -<li>Divorce amongst the Wazaramo, i. 118. -Amongst the East Africans generally, <a href="#Pageii-333">ii. 333</a>.</li> - -<li>Drawing materials required for the expedition, i. 155.</li> - -<li>Dress, articles of, of the East Africans, i. 148. -Of the Wamrima, 33, 34. -Of the Wazaramo, 109. -Of the Wak’hutu, 120. -Of the Wasagara, 253. -Of the Wahete, 239. -Of the Wagogo, 305. -Of the Wahumba, 312. -Of the Wakalaganza, 406. -Of the Wakimbu, <a href="#Pageii-20">ii. 20</a>. -Of the Wanyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-21">21</a>. -Of the Wajiji, <a href="#Pageii-64">64</a>. -Of the Warundi, <a href="#Pageii-146">146</a>. -Of the Wavinza, <a href="#Pageii-75">75</a>. -Of the Watuta, <a href="#Pageii-77">77</a>. -Of the Wabuta, <a href="#Pageii-78">78</a>. -Of the people of Karagwah, <a href="#Pageii-182">182</a>. -Of the Wahinda, <a href="#Pageii-220">220</a>. -Of the Warori, <a href="#Pageii-271">271</a>.</li> - -<li>Dodges of the ferrymen, <a href="#Pageii-164">ii. 164</a>, <a href="#Pageii-165">165</a>.</li> - -<li>Dragon-flies in Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-18">ii. 18</a>.</li> - -<li>Drinking-bouts in East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-295">ii. 295</a>, <a href="#Pageii-335">335</a>.</li> - -<li>Drinking-cups in East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-295">ii. 295</a>.</li> - -<li>Drums and drumming of East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-295">ii. 295</a>.</li> - -<li>Drunkenness of the Wazaramo, i. 118. -Of the Wak’hutu, 120. -And debauchery of the people of Msene, 398. -Prevalence of, near the Lake Tanganyika, <a href="#Pageii-59">ii. 59</a>. -Of the Wajiji, <a href="#Pageii-69">69</a>.</li> - -<li>Dogs, wild, in Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-16">ii. 16</a>. -Pariah, in the villages of Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-60">60</a>. -Rarely heard to bark, <a href="#Pageii-60">60</a>.</li> - -<li>Dolicos pruriens on the banks of the Mgeta river, i. 166.</li> - -<li>Donkey-men of the expedition, i. 143.</li> - -<li>Dub-grass in the Usagara mountains, i. 171.</li> - -<li>Dunda, or “the Hill,” district of, i. 54.</li> - -<li>Dunda Nguru, or “Seer fish-bill” i. 69.</li> - -<li>Dungomaro, or Mandama, river, arrival of the caravan at the, i. 222. -Description of the bed of the, 223.</li> - -<li>Dut’humi, mountain crags of, i. 65, 83, 86. -Illness of the chiefs of the expedition at, 84. -Description of the plains of, 86.</li> - -<li class="newletter">Eagles, fish, of Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-60">ii. 60</a>.</li> - -<li>Ear-lobes distended by the Wasagara, i. 235. -And by the Wahehe, 239. -By the Wagogo, 304. -And by the Wahumba, 312. -Enlarged by the Wanyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-21">ii. 21</a>.</li> - -<li>Earth-fruit of India, i. 198.</li> - -<li>Earthquakes in Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-13">ii. 13</a>.</li> - -<li>Earwigs in East African houses, i. 370.</li> - -<li>Ebb and flow of the Tanganyika Lake, <a href="#Pageii-143">ii. 143</a>. -Causes of, <a href="#Pageii-143">143</a>, <a href="#Pageii-144">144</a>.</li> - -<li>Education of children in Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-23">ii. 23</a>, <a href="#Pageii-24">24</a>.</li> - -<li>Eels of the Tanganyika Lake, <a href="#Pageii-68">ii. 68</a>.</li> - -<li>Eggs not eaten by the Wanyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-29">ii. 29</a>. -Nor by the people of Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-59">59</a>.</li> - -<li>Elæis Guiniensis, or Mehikichi tree, in Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-58">ii. 58</a>.</li> - -<li>Elephants at Dut’humi, i. 87. -In Ugogi, 242. -At Ziwa, or the Pond, 251. -On the road to Ugogo, 247. -On the Mgunda Mk’hali, 287, 289. -In Ugogo, 300. -On the banks of the Malagarazi river, 408. -In Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-15">ii. 15</a>. -Near the sea of Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-60">60</a>. -In East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-297">297</a>.</li> - -<li>Elephant hunting in East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-298">ii. 298</a>.</li> - -<li>English, the, bow regarded in Africa, i. 31.</li> - -<li>Erhardt, M., his proposed expedition to East Africa, i. 3.</li> - -<li>Ethnology of East Africa, i. 106. -Of the second region, 225, <i>et seq.</i></li> - -<li>Euphorbiæ at Mb’hali, i. 401. -In Ugogo, 300. -In the Usagara mountains, i. 165.</li> - -<li>Evil eye unknown to the Wazaramo, i. 116.</li> - -<li>Exorcism in East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-352">ii. 352</a>.</li> - -<li class="newletter">Falsehood of the coast clans of East Africa, i. 37. -General in East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-328">ii. 328</a>.</li> - -<li>Faraj, sketch of him and his wife, the lady Halimah, i. 129.</li> - -<li>Fauna of Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-60">ii. 60</a>.</li> - -<li>Fetiss-huts of the Wazaramo described, i. 57. -Of East Africa, 369; <a href="#Pageii-346">ii. 346</a>.</li> - -<li>Fetissism of East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-341">ii. 341</a>, <i>et seq.</i></li> - -<li>Fever, marsh, cure in Central Asia for, i. 82. -The author prostrated by, 84. -Delirium of, 84. -Of East Africa generally described, 105. -The author and his companion again attacked by, at Muhama, 179. -Common in the Usagara mountains, 233. -Seasoning fever of East Africa, generally, 379. -Miasmatic, described, 403. -Low type, 406. -Seasoning fever at Unyamwezi described, <a href="#Pageii-14">ii. 14</a>.</li> - -<li>Fire-arms and Gunpowder in East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-308">ii. 308</a>.</li> - -<li>Fires in Africa, <a href="#Pageii-259">ii. 259</a>.</li> - -<li>Fish of the Kingani river, i. 56. -Of the Tanganyika Lake, <a href="#Pageii-59">ii. 59</a>. -Varieties of, <a href="#Pageii-67">67</a>. -Narcotised in Uzaramo, <a href="#Pageii-67">67</a>. -At Wafanya, <a href="#Pageii-108">108</a>. -Considered as an article of diet in East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-280">280</a>.</li> - -<li>Fishing in the Tanganyika Lake, <a href="#Pageii-66">ii. 66</a>.</li> - -<li>Fisi, or cynhyæna, of Uzaramo, i. 63. -The scavenger of the country, i. 64.</li> - -<li>Flies in Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-18">ii. 18</a>. -Fatal bite of one in, <a href="#Pageii-19">19</a>.</li> - -<li>Flowers of Usagara, i. 328. -At Msene, 397.</li> - -<li>Fly, a stinging, the tzetze, i. 187.</li> - -<li>Fog-rainbow in the Usagara mountains<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-450">[450]</span>, i. 222.</li> - -<li>Food of the Wamrima, i. 35. -Of the Wazaramo, 56. -Of the people of Zungomero, 95, 96, 97. -Of the Wak’hutu, 120. -Of the expedition, 151, 198. -Of the people of Marenga Mk’hali, 201. -Of the Wagogo, 310, 311. -Of Rubuga, 317. -Of Kazeh, 329. -Of Arabs of, 331-334. -Of Wilyanhuru, 392-394. -Of Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-28">ii. 28</a>, <a href="#Pageii-29">29</a>. -Of Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-70">70</a>, 88. -Of Karagwah, <a href="#Pageii-180">180</a>, 181. -Of Uganda, <a href="#Pageii-196">196</a>, 197. -Of the Warori tribe, <a href="#Pageii-273">273</a>. -East Africa generally, <a href="#Pageii-280">280</a>.</li> - -<li>Fords in East Africa, i. 336.</li> - -<li>Fowls not eaten by the Wanyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-29">ii. 29</a>. -Nor by the people of Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-59">59</a>.</li> - -<li>Frankincense of Ugogo, i. 299.</li> - -<li>Frogs in Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-17">ii. 17</a>. -Night concerts of, <a href="#Pageii-17">17</a>. -Of the sea of Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-61">61</a>.</li> - -<li>Frost, Mr., of the Zanzibar consulate, i. 3, 21.</li> - -<li>Fruits of East Africa, i. 48, 201. -Of Usagara, 228. -Of Yombo, 337. -Of Mb’hali, 401. -Of Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-58">ii. 58</a>.</li> - -<li>Fundi, or itinerant slave-artizans of Unyanyembe, i. 328. -Caravans of the, 344.</li> - -<li>Fundikira, Sultan of Unyamwezi, notice of him, <a href="#Pageii-31">ii. 31</a>.</li> - -<li>Fundikira, Sultan of Ititenza, i. 326.</li> - -<li>Funerals of the Wazaramo, i. 119. Of the Wadoe, 124.</li> - -<li>Funza, brother of Sultan Matanza of Msene, i. 396.</li> - -<li>Furniture of East African houses, i. 371. -Kitanda, or bedstead, 371. -Bedding, 371. -Of the houses of the Wanyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-26">ii. 26</a>.</li> - -<li class="newletter">Gadflies, annoyance of, at K’hok’ho, i. 276.</li> - -<li>Gaetano, the Goanese servant, sketch of his character, i. 131. -Taken ill, 380. -His epileptic fits at Msene, 395, 399.</li> - -<li>Gama river, i. 123.</li> - -<li>Gambling in East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-279">ii. 279</a>.</li> - -<li>Game in Uzaramo, i. 59, 71. -In the Doab of the Mgeta river, 81. -In K’huta, 120. -In the plains between the Rufuta and the Mukondokwa mountains, 181. -In Ugogi, 242. -At Ziwa, or the Pond, 251. -At Kanyenye, 268. -Scarcity of, in East Africa generally, 268.</li> - -<li>Ganza Mikono, sultan of Usek’he, i. 272.</li> - -<li>Geography of the second region, i. 225, <i>et seq</i>. -Of Ugogo, 295. -Arab oral, <a href="#Pageii-144">ii. 144-154</a>.</li> - -<li>Geology of the maritime region of East Africa, i. 102. -Of the Usagara mountains, 227. -Of the road to Ugogo, 247. -Of Mgunda Mk’hali, i. 282-284. -Of Ugogo, i. 295. -Of Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-6">ii. 6</a>.</li> - -<li>Ghost-faith of the Africans, <a href="#Pageii-344">ii. 344</a>.</li> - -<li>Gingerbread tree, described, i. 47.</li> - -<li>Ginyindo, march to, <a href="#Pageii-253">ii. 253</a>. -Quarrel of the Baloch and porters at, <a href="#Pageii-253">253</a>.</li> - -<li>Giraffes in Ugogi, i. 242. -Native names of the, 242, 243. -Use made of them, 243. -At Ziwa, or the Pond, 251. -On the Mgunda Mk’hali, 289. -In Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-15">ii. 15</a>.</li> - -<li>Girls of the Wanyamwezi, strange custom of the, <a href="#Pageii-24">ii. 24</a>.</li> - -<li>Gnus in the Doab of the Mgeta river, i. 81. -At Dut’humi, 87.</li> - -<li>Goats of Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-59">ii. 59</a>.</li> - -<li>Goma pass, the, i. 168, 170.</li> - -<li>Gombe, mud-fish in the nullah of, i. 334.</li> - -<li>Gombe Nullah, i. 395, 397, 401, -403, <a href="#Pageii-8">ii. 8</a>.</li> - -<li>Goose, ruddy, Egyptian, i. 317.</li> - -<li>Gourd, the, a musical instrument in East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-294">ii. 294</a>.</li> - -<li>Gourds of the Myombo tree in Usagara, i. 229.</li> - -<li>Government of the Wazaramo, i. 113. -Of the Wak’hutu, 120, 121. -Of the Wanyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-31">ii. 31</a>. -Of the Wajiji, <a href="#Pageii-71">71</a>. -Of the northern kingdoms of Africa, <a href="#Pageii-174">174</a>. -Mode of, in Uganda, <a href="#Pageii-192">192</a>. -Forms of, in East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-360">360</a>.</li> - -<li>Grain, mode of grinding, in East Africa, i. 111, 372. -That of Msene, 397, 398. -Of Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-57">ii. 57</a>.</li> - -<li>Grapes, wild, seen for the first time, <a href="#Pageii-41">ii. 41</a>.</li> - -<li>Grasses of the swamps and marshes of the Mrima, i. 103, 104. -The dub of the Usagara mountains, 171.</li> - -<li>Graveyards, absence of, in East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-25">ii. 25</a>.</li> - -<li>Ground-fish of the Tanganyika Lake, <a href="#Pageii-68">ii. 68</a>.</li> - -<li>Ground-nut oil in East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-285">ii. 285</a>.</li> - -<li>Grouse, sand, at Ziwa, i. 251.</li> - -<li>Guest welcome, or hishmat l’il gharib, of the Arabs of Kazeh, i. 329.</li> - -<li>Gugu-mbua, or wild sugar-cane, i. 71.</li> - -<li>Guinea-fowls in the Doab of the Mgeta river, i. 81. -Of the Rufuta plains, 183. -Of Ugogi, 242.</li> - -<li>Guinea-palm of Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-58">ii. 58</a>.</li> - -<li>Gul Mohammed, a Baloch of the party, sketch of him, i. 139. -His conversation with Muzungu Mbaya, <a href="#Pageii-244">ii. 244</a>.</li> - -<li>Gulls, sea, of the sea of Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-60">ii. 60</a>.</li> - -<li>Gungu, district of, in Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-53">ii. 53</a>. -Its former and present chiefs, <a href="#Pageii-53">53</a>. -Plundered by the Watuta tribe, <a href="#Pageii-76">76</a>.</li> - -<li class="newletter">Hail-storms in Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-10">ii. 10</a>.</li> - -<li>Hair, mode of dressing the, amongst the -Wazaramo<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-451">[451]</span>, i. 108. -And the Wak’hutu, 120. -Wasagara fashions of dressing the, 234. -Wagogo mode, 304. -Amongst the Wanyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-26">ii. 26</a>. -Wabuha mode of dressing the, <a href="#Pageii-78">78</a>. -And in Uganda, <a href="#Pageii-189">189</a>.</li> - -<li>Halimah, the lady, sketch of, i. 129. -Taken ill, 200. -Returns home, <a href="#Pageii-277">ii. 277</a>.</li> - -<li>Hamdan, Sayyid, of Zanzibar, his death, i. 2.</li> - -<li>Hamerton, Lieut.-Col., his friendship with the late Sultan of Zanzibar, i. 2. -Interest taken by him in the expedition, 3. -His objections to an expedition into the interior <i>viâ</i> Kilwa, 5. -His death, 66. -His character, 69.</li> - -<li>Hamid bin Salim, his journey to the Wahumba tribe, i. 311.</li> - -<li>Hammals of the Wanyamwezi, character of the, <a href="#Pageii-162">ii. 162</a>.</li> - -<li>Hammam, or primitive form of the lamp-bath, i. 82.</li> - -<li>Hanga, journey to, <a href="#Pageii-232">ii. 232</a>. -Difficulties with the porters there, <a href="#Pageii-232">232</a>.</li> - -<li>Hartebeest in the Doab of the Mgeta river, i. 81.</li> - -<li>Hawks of the Usagara mountains, i. 162.</li> - -<li>Hembe, or “the wild buffalo’s horn,” his village, i. 72.</li> - -<li>Hides, African mode of dressing, i. 236.</li> - -<li>Hilal bin Nasur, his information respecting the southern provinces, <a href="#Pageii-228">ii. 228</a>.</li> - -<li>Hippopotami on the east coast of Africa, i. 9, 12, -24, 56. -In Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-15">ii. 15</a>. -In the Ruche river, <a href="#Pageii-52">52</a>, <a href="#Pageii-158">158</a>. -In the sea of Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-60">60</a>.</li> - -<li>Hishmat l’il gharib, or guest welcome of the Arabs of Kazeh, i. 323, -329.</li> - -<li>Hogs of Ugogo, i. 300.</li> - -<li>Home, African attachment for, <a href="#Pageii-333">ii. 333</a>.</li> - -<li>Honey in Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-59">ii. 59</a>. -Abundance of, in East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-287">287</a>. -Two kinds of, <a href="#Pageii-288">288</a>.</li> - -<li>Houses of Kuingani, i. 43. -The wayside, or kraals, 53, 181, 230. -Of the Wak’hutu, 97, 121. -Of the Wazaramo, 110. -Of the Wagogo, 306. -Of the Arabs in Unyanyembe, 328, 329. -Of stone, ignored by Inner Africa, 93. -Of the country beyond Marenga Mk’hali, called “Tembe,” 207. -The Tembe of the Wahete, 240. -The Khambi or, Kraal, 354. -The Tembe of the Usagara, 366. -Houses of East Africa generally described, 364, <a href="#Pageii-334">ii. 334</a>. -Pests of the houses, i. 370. -Furniture, 371. -Of the Wanyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-26">ii. 26</a>. -Of Karagwah, <a href="#Pageii-182">182</a>, <a href="#Pageii-183">183</a>.</li> - -<li>Hullak, the buffoon, i. 46.</li> - -<li>Hunting season in East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-296">ii. 296</a>.</li> - -<li>Hyænas in Ugogo, i. 276. -In Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-60">ii. 60</a>.</li> - -<li>Hyderabad, story of the police officer of, i. 217.</li> - -<li class="newletter">Ibanda, second sultan of Ukerewe, <a href="#Pageii-214">ii. 214</a>.</li> - -<li>Id, son of Muallim Salim, his civility at Msene, i. 399.</li> - -<li>Iguanas of the Usagara mountains, i. 162.</li> - -<li>Ihara or Kwihara, physical features of the plain of, i. 326.</li> - -<li>Ikuka of Uhehe, march to, <a href="#Pageii-252">ii. 252</a>.</li> - -<li>Illness of the whole party at Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-85">ii. 85</a>, <a href="#Pageii-86">86</a>.</li> - -<li>Immigration in Central Africa, <a href="#Pageii-19">ii. 19</a>.</li> - -<li>Imports and exports in East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-387">ii. 387</a>.</li> - -<li>Indian Ocean, evening on the, i. 1. -View of the Mrima from the, 8.</li> - -<li>Industry, commercial, of the Wanyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-29">ii. 29</a>.</li> - -<li>Inenge, basin of, i. 208. -Halt at the, 208.</li> - -<li>Influenza, the, in Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-13">ii. 13</a>.</li> - -<li>Influenza, remedy in East Africa for, i. 96.</li> - -<li>Inhospitality of Africans, <a href="#Pageii-131">ii. 131</a>, <a href="#Pageii-327">327</a>.</li> - -<li>Inhumanity of the Africans, <a href="#Pageii-329">ii. 329</a>.</li> - -<li>Insects in East Africa, i. 186, 187, 201, -202. -In houses in East Africa, 370. -In Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-61">ii. 61</a>.</li> - -<li>Instruments required for the expedition, i. 153. -Breakage of, on the road, 169. -Accidents to which they are liable in East African travels, 189, 191.</li> - -<li>Intellect of the East African, <a href="#Pageii-337">ii. 337</a>.</li> - -<li>Iron in Karagwah, <a href="#Pageii-185">ii. 185</a>. -In Urori, <a href="#Pageii-27">27</a>. -And in Ubena, <a href="#Pageii-27">27</a>. -Of East Africa generally, <a href="#Pageii-311">311</a>.</li> - -<li>Ironga, sultan of U’ungu, defeats the Warori, <a href="#Pageii-75">ii. 75</a>.</li> - -<li>Ironware of Uvira, <a href="#Pageii-121">ii. 121</a>.</li> - -<li>Irora, village of, i. 389. -Halt at, 389. -Sultan of, 389. -Return to, <a href="#Pageii-166">ii. 166</a>.</li> - -<li>Irrigation, artificial, in K’hutu, i. 86.</li> - -<li>Isa bin Hijji, the Arab merchant, exchange of civilities with, i. 208, 211. -Places a tembe at Kazeh at the disposal of the party, 323.</li> - -<li>Isa bin Hosayn, the favourite of the Sultan of Uganda, <a href="#Pageii-193">ii. 193</a>.</li> - -<li>Ismail, the Baloch, illness of, i. 381.</li> - -<li>Ititenya, settlement of, i. 326.</li> - -<li>Ivory, caravan of, i. 17. -Frauds perpetrated on the owners of tusks, 17. -Mode of buying and selling in East Africa, 39. -Touters of Zungomero, 97. -Mode of carrying large tusks of, 341, 348. -Price of, at Uvira, <a href="#Pageii-120">ii. 120</a>, <a href="#Pageii-121">121</a>. -Ivory of Ubena, <a href="#Pageii-270">270</a>. -Trade in Ivory, <a href="#Pageii-408">408</a>.</li> - -<li>Iwanza, or public-houses, in Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-1">ii. 1</a>, <a href="#Pageii-27">27</a>. -Described, <a href="#Pageii-27">27</a>, <a href="#Pageii-279">279</a>, <a href="#Pageii-285">285</a>.</li> - -<li>Iwemba, province of, <a href="#Pageii-153">ii. 153</a>.</li> - -<li class="newletter">Jackal, silver, of Ugogi, i. 242.</li> - -<li>Jambeho, arrival of the party at the settlements of, <a href="#Pageii-36">ii. 36</a>. -Cultivation of, <a href="#Pageii-36">36</a>. -Scarcity of food in, <a href="#Pageii-36">36</a>. -Revisited, <a href="#Pageii-163">163</a>.</li> - -<li>Jami of Harar, Shaykh, of the Somal, i. 33.</li> - -<li>Jamshid, Sayyid, of Zanzibar, his death<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-452">[452]</span>, i. 2.</li> - -<li>Jasmine, the, in Usagara, i. 228.</li> - -<li>Jealousy of the Wazaramo, i. 61.</li> - -<li>Jelai, Seedy, the Baloch, sketch of him, i. 137.</li> - -<li>Jezirah, island of, <a href="#Pageii-212">ii. 212</a>.</li> - -<li>Jiwe la Mkoa, or the round rock, arrival of the party at, i. 286. -Description of it, 287; <a href="#Pageii-242">ii. 242</a>. -Halt at, <a href="#Pageii-242">242</a>.</li> - -<li>Jiweni, arrival of the expedition at, i. 289. -Water at, 289.</li> - -<li>Jongo, or millepedes, in Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-18">ii. 18</a>.</li> - -<li>Jua, Dar el, or home of hunger, i. 69.</li> - -<li>Juma Mfumbi, Diwan of Saadani, his exaction of tribute from the Wadoe, i. 123.</li> - -<li>Jungle, insect pests of the, i. 186. -Fire in the jungle in summer, <a href="#Pageii-163">ii. 163</a>.</li> - -<li>Jungle-thorn, on the road to Ugogo, i. 246. -Near Kanyenye, 271.</li> - -<li class="newletter">Kadetamare, arrival of the party at, i. 189. -Loss of instruments at, 189, 190.</li> - -<li>Kaffirs of the Cape, date of their migration to the banks of the Kei, <a href="#Pageii-5">ii. 5</a>.</li> - -<li>Kafuro, district of, in Karagwah, <a href="#Pageii-177">ii. 177</a>.</li> - -<li>Kajjanjeri, village of, arrival of the party at, i. 403. -Deadly climate of, 403.</li> - -<li>Kannena, headman of Kawele, visit to, <a href="#Pageii-81">ii. 81</a>. -Description of him, <a href="#Pageii-81">81</a>. -His mode of opening trade, <a href="#Pageii-82">82</a>. -His ill-will, <a href="#Pageii-83">83</a>, <a href="#Pageii-84">84</a>. -Agrees to take the party to the northern extremity of the lake, <a href="#Pageii-93">93</a>. -His surly and drunken conduct, <a href="#Pageii-97">97</a>. -Starts on the voyage, <a href="#Pageii-98">98</a>. -His covetousness, <a href="#Pageii-109">109</a>. -His extravagance, <a href="#Pageii-120">120</a>. -His drunkenness and fate, <a href="#Pageii-156">156</a>.</li> - -<li>Kanoni, sultan of the Wahha tribe, <a href="#Pageii-79">ii. 79</a>.</li> - -<li>Kanoni, minor chief of Wafanya, visit from, <a href="#Pageii-107">ii. 107</a>. -His blackmail, <a href="#Pageii-107">107</a>. -Outrage committed by his people, <a href="#Pageii-124">124</a>.</li> - -<li>Kanyenye, country of, described, i. 265. -Blackmail at, 265. -Sultan Magomba of, 265.</li> - -<li>Kaole, settlement of, described, i. 12, 13. -The landing place of the expedition, 22.</li> - -<li id="IndRef5">Karagwah, kingdom of, <a href="#Pageii-177">ii. 177</a>. -Extent of, <a href="#Pageii-177">177</a>. -Boundaries of, <a href="#Pageii-178">178</a>. -Climate of, <a href="#Pageii-180">180</a>. -People of, <a href="#Pageii-181">181</a>. -Dress of, <a href="#Pageii-182">182</a>. -Weapons of, <a href="#Pageii-182">182</a>. -Houses of, <a href="#Pageii-182">182</a>. -Sultan of, <a href="#Pageii-183">183</a>. -Government of, <a href="#Pageii-183">183</a>.</li> - -<li>Karagwah, mountains of, <a href="#Pageii-48">ii. 48</a>, <a href="#Pageii-144">144</a>, <a href="#Pageii-177">177</a>.</li> - -<li>Kariba, river, <a href="#Pageii-146">ii. 146</a>.</li> - -<li>Karindira, river, <a href="#Pageii-146">ii. 146</a>.</li> - -<li>Karungu, province of, <a href="#Pageii-149">ii. 149</a>.</li> - -<li>Kasangare, a Mvinza sultan, his subjects, i. 328.</li> - -<li>Kaskazi, or N. E. monsoon, i. 83.</li> - -<li>Kata, or sand-grouse, at Ziwa, i. 251.</li> - -<li>Katata, or Katanga, copper in, <a href="#Pageii-148">ii. 148</a>.</li> - -<li>Katonga, river, <a href="#Pageii-187">ii. 187</a>.</li> - -<li>Kawele, principal village of Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-53">ii. 53</a>. -Attacked by the Watuta tribe, <a href="#Pageii-76">ii. 76</a>. -Return of the expedition to, <a href="#Pageii-126">126</a>.</li> - -<li>Kaya, or fenced hamlets, i. 407.</li> - -<li>Kazeh, arrival at, i. 321, 322. -Abdullah bin Salih’s caravan plundered at, 321. -Hospitality of the Arabs there, 323. -Revisited, <a href="#Pageii-167">ii. 167</a>.</li> - -<li>Kazembe, sultan of Usenda, <a href="#Pageii-148">ii. 148</a>. -Account of him, <a href="#Pageii-148">148</a>.</li> - -<li>Khalfan bin Muallim Salim, commands an up caravan, i. 179. -His caravan attacked by small-pox, 179, 201. -His falsehoods, 179. -Spreads malevolent reports at Ugogo, 262.</li> - -<li>Khalfan bin Khamis, his penny wise economy, i. 288. -Bids adieu to the caravan, 291. -Overtaken half-way to Unyanyembe, 221. -His civility at Msene, 399.</li> - -<li>Khambi, or substantial kraals, of the wayside described, i. 53, 134.</li> - -<li>Khamisi, Muinyi, and the lost furniture, <a href="#Pageii-168">ii. 168</a>.</li> - -<li>K’hok’ho, in Ugogo, dangers of, i. 272, 274. -Its tyrant sultan, 274. -Insect annoyances at, 276.</li> - -<li>Khudabakhsh, the Baloch, sketch of him, i. 138. -His threats to murder the author, 174. -His illness in the Windy Pass, 214. -His conduct at Wafanya, <a href="#Pageii-110">ii. 110</a>. -Reaches Kawele by land, <a href="#Pageii-111">111</a>.</li> - -<li>K’hutu, expedition enters the country of, i. 86. -Irrigation in, 86. -Hideous and grotesque vegetation of, 91. -Climate of, 92. -Salt-pits of, 92. -Country of, described, 119. -Roads in, 335. -Return to, <a href="#Pageii-264">ii. 264</a>. -Desolation of, <a href="#Pageii-264">264</a>.</li> - -<li>K’hutu, river i. 86.</li> - -<li>Kibaiba river, <a href="#Pageii-146">ii. 146</a>.</li> - -<li>Kibuga, in Uganda, distance from the Kitangure river to, <a href="#Pageii-186">ii. 186</a>. -Road to, <a href="#Pageii-186">186</a>, <a href="#Pageii-187">187</a>. -Described, <a href="#Pageii-188">188</a>.</li> - -<li>Kibuya, sultan of Mdabura, blackmail of, i. 279. -Description of him, 279.</li> - -<li>Kichyoma-chyoma, “the little irons,” Captain Speke afflicted with, <a href="#Pageii-234">ii. 234</a>. -The disease described, <a href="#Pageii-320">320</a>.</li> - -<li>Kidogo, Muinyi, sketch of him, i. 140. -His hatred of Said bin Salim, 164. -His advice to the party at Marenga Mk’hali, 203. -His words of wisdom on the road to Ugogo, 250. -His management, 254. -His quarrel with Said bin Salim, 255. -Makes oath at Kanyenye, that the white man would not smite the land, 267. -Loses his heart to a slave girl, 314. -His demands at Kazeh, 377. -Dismissed at Sorora, 402. -Flogs Sangora, 403. -Sent home, <a href="#Pageii-277">ii. 277</a>.</li> - -<li>Kidunda, or the “little hill,” camping ground of<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-453">[453]</span>, -i. 79. -Scenery of, 79.</li> - -<li>Kifukuru, delay of the caravan at, i. 264. -Question of blackmail at, 264. -Sultan of, 264.</li> - -<li>Kigari, on the Tanganyika Lake, halt of the party at, <a href="#Pageii-101">ii. 101</a>.</li> - -<li>Kigwa, or Mkigwa, halt of the caravan at, i. 319. -The ill-omened forest of, 319. -Sultan Manwa, 319.</li> - -<li>Kikoboga, basin of, traversed, <a href="#Pageii-262">ii. 262</a>.</li> - -<li>Kikoboga river, <a href="#Pageii-263">ii. 263</a>.</li> - -<li>Kilwa, dangers of, as an ingress point, i. 4, 5.</li> - -<li>Kimanu, the sultan of Ubena, <a href="#Pageii-270">ii. 270</a>.</li> - -<li>Kinanda, or harp, of East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-298">ii. 298</a>.</li> - -<li>Kinawani, village of, arrival of the caravan at, <a href="#Pageii-35">ii. 35</a>.</li> - -<li>Kindunda, “the hillock,” i. 64.</li> - -<li>Kinganguku, march to, <a href="#Pageii-251">ii. 251</a>.</li> - -<li>Kingani river described, i. 56. -Valley of the, 56. -Hippopotami and crocodiles of the, 56. -Fish of the, 56. -Its malarious plain, 69. -Rise of the, 87.</li> - -<li>Kingfishers on the lake of Tanganyika, <a href="#Pageii-61">ii. 61</a>.</li> - -<li>Kipango, or tzetze fly, of East Africa, i. 187.</li> - -<li>Kiperepeta, march to, <a href="#Pageii-256">ii. 256</a>.</li> - -<li>Kiranga-Ranga, the first dangerous station in Uzaramo, i. 59.</li> - -<li>Kirangozi, guide or guardian, carried by mothers in Uzaramo, i. 116.</li> - -<li>Kirangozi, or guide of the caravan, his wrath, i. 221. -Description of one, 346. -Meeting of two, 351. -His treatment of his slave girl, <a href="#Pageii-161">ii. 161</a>. -His fear of travelling northward, <a href="#Pageii-172">172</a>.</li> - -<li>Kiringawana mountains, i. 233.</li> - -<li>Kiringawana route in the Usagara mountains described, <a href="#Pageii-249">ii. 249</a>.</li> - -<li>Kiringawana, sultan, <a href="#Pageii-258">ii. 258</a>.</li> - -<li>Kirira, halt of the party at, i. 392. -Hospitality of an Arab merchant at, 392-394. -Climate of, 394.</li> - -<li>Kiruru, or “palm leaves,” village of, i. 82.</li> - -<li>Kirurumo, on the Mgunda Mk’hali, i. 289. -Water obtained at, 289.</li> - -<li>Kisanga, basin of, described, <a href="#Pageii-257">ii. 257</a>.</li> - -<li>Kisabengo, the chief headman of Inland Magogoni, i. 88. -Account of his depredations, 88.</li> - -<li>Kisawahili language, remarks on the, i. 15, <i>note</i>; <a href="#Pageii-198">ii. 198</a>.</li> - -<li>Kisesa, sultan, his blackmail, <a href="#Pageii-114">ii. 114</a>.</li> - -<li>Kitambi, sultan of Uyuwwi, recovers part of the stolen papers, i. 320.</li> - -<li>Kitangure, or river of Karagwah, i. 409; <a href="#Pageii-144">ii. 144</a>, -<a href="#Pageii-177">177</a>, <a href="#Pageii-186">186</a>.</li> - -<li>Kiti, or stool, of East Africa, i. 373.</li> - -<li>Kittara, in Kingoro, road to, <a href="#Pageii-187">ii. 187</a>. -Wild coffee of, <a href="#Pageii-187">187</a>.</li> - -<li>Kivira river, <a href="#Pageii-197">ii. 197</a>.</li> - -<li>Kiyombo, sultan of Urawwa, <a href="#Pageii-147">ii. 147</a>.</li> - -<li>Kizaya, the P’hazi, i. 54. -Accompanies the expedition a part of their way, 55.</li> - -<li>Knobkerries of Africa, <a href="#Pageii-306">ii. 306</a>.</li> - -<li>Kombe la Simba, the P’hazi, i. 54.</li> - -<li>Konduchi, march to, <a href="#Pageii-274">ii. 274</a>. -Revisited, <a href="#Pageii-276">276</a>.</li> - -<li>Koodoo, the, at Dut’humi, i. 87.</li> - -<li>Koodoo horn, the bugle of East Africa, i. 203.</li> - -<li>Kraals of thorn, in the Usagara mountains, i. 230. -Of East Africa, 354.</li> - -<li>Krapf, Dr., result of his mission, i. 6. -His information, 7. -His etymological errors, 36, <i>note</i>.</li> - -<li>Kuhonga, or blackmail, at Ugogo, i. 252. -Account of the blackmail of East Africa, 253.</li> - -<li>Kuingani, “the cocoa-nut plantation near the sea,” i. 42. -Described, 43. -Houses of, 43. -Climate of, 44.</li> - -<li>Kumbeni, isles of, i. 1.</li> - -<li>Kuryamavenge river, <a href="#Pageii-146">ii. 146</a>.</li> - -<li>Kwale, halt at the nullah of, i. 315.</li> - -<li>Kwihanga, village of, described, i. 396.</li> - -<li class="newletter">Ladha Damha, pushes the expedition forward, i. 11. -His conversation with Ramji, 23.</li> - -<li>Lakes,—Nyanza, or Ukerewe, i. 311, 409, -<a href="#Pageii-175">ii. 175</a>, <a href="#Pageii-176">176</a>, <a href="#Pageii-179">179</a>, -<a href="#Pageii-195">195</a>. -Tanganyika, <a href="#Pageii-42">ii. 42</a>, <i>et seq.</i>; 134, <i>et seq.</i> -Mukiziwa, <a href="#Pageii-147">ii. 147</a>.</li> - -<li>Lakit, Arab law of, i. 258.</li> - -<li>Lamp-bath of Central Asia, i. 82.</li> - -<li>Land-crabs in the Doab of the Mgeta river, i. 81.</li> - -<li>Language of the Wagogo, i. 306. -Of the Wahumba, 311. -Of the Wanyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-5">ii. 5</a>. -Of the Wakimbu, <a href="#Pageii-20">20</a>. -Of the Wanyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-30">30</a>. -Specimens of the various dialects collected, <a href="#Pageii-198">198</a>. -Of the East Africans, <a href="#Pageii-336">336</a>.</li> - -<li>Leeches in Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-18">ii. 18</a>.</li> - -<li>Leopards in Ugogo, i. 302. -In Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-15">ii. 15</a>.</li> - -<li>Leucæthiops amongst the Wazaramo, i. 109.</li> - -<li>Libellulæ in Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-18">ii. 18</a>.</li> - -<li>Lions in Uzaramo, i. 63. -Signs of, on the road, 172. -In Ugogo, 300, 301. -In Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-15">ii. 15</a>.</li> - -<li>Lizards in the houses in East Africa, i. 371.</li> - -<li>Locusts, or nzige, flights of, in Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-18">ii. 18</a>. -Varieties of, <a href="#Pageii-18">18</a>. -Some considered edible, <a href="#Pageii-18">18</a>.</li> - -<li>Lodgings on the march in East Africa<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-454">[454]</span>, i. 353. -In Ugogo, 354. -In Unyamwezi, 354. -In Uvinza, 354. -At Ujiji, 351.</li> - -<li>Looms in Unyamwezi, i. 318; <a href="#Pageii-1">ii. 1</a>.</li> - -<li>Lues in East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-321">ii. 321</a>.</li> - -<li>Lunar Mountains, <a href="#Pageii-48">ii. 48</a>, <a href="#Pageii-144">144</a>.</li> - -<li>Lurinda, chief of Gungu, <a href="#Pageii-53">ii. 53</a>. -Supplies a boat on the Tanganyika lake, <a href="#Pageii-87">87</a>. -Enters into brotherhood with Said bin Salim, <a href="#Pageii-125">ii. 125</a>.</li> - -<li>Lying, habit of, of the African, <a href="#Pageii-328">ii. 328</a>.</li> - -<li class="newletter">Mabruki, Muinyi, henchman in the expedition, sketch of the character of, i. 130. -His slave boy, <a href="#Pageii-162">ii. 162</a>. -His bad behaviour, <a href="#Pageii-173">173</a>.</li> - -<li>Mabruki Pass, descent of the, <a href="#Pageii-263">ii. 263</a>.</li> - -<li>Mabunguru fiumara, i. 283. -Shell-fish and Silurus of the, 284. -Arrival of the party at the, 285.</li> - -<li>Macaulay, Lord, quoted, i. 393.</li> - -<li>Machunda, chief sultan of Ukerewe, <a href="#Pageii-214">ii. 214</a>.</li> - -<li>Madege Madogo, the “little birds,” district of, i. 79.</li> - -<li>Madege Mkuba, “the great birds,” district of, i. 79.</li> - -<li>Magic, black, or Ucháwi, how punished by the Wazaramo, i. 113, 265. -Mode of proceeding for ascertaining the existence of, <a href="#Pageii-32">ii. 32</a>. -<i>See</i> <a href="#IndRef3">Mganga</a>.</li> - -<li>Magogoni, inland, country of, i. 87.</li> - -<li>Magomba, sultan of Kanyenye, i. 265. -Blackmail levied by, 265. -Interview with him and his court, 266. -Description of him, 266.</li> - -<li>Magugi, in Karagwah, <a href="#Pageii-177">ii. 177</a>.</li> - -<li>Maizan, M., his death, i. 6. -Sketch of his career, 73.</li> - -<li>Maji m’ote, or “hot water” ant, of East Africa, i. 187.</li> - -<li>Maji ya W’heta, or jetting water, the thermal spring of, i. 159. -Return to, <a href="#Pageii-264">ii. 264</a>.</li> - -<li>Majid, Sayyid, sultan of Zanzibar, i. 2. -Gives letters of introduction to the author, 3.</li> - -<li>Makata tank, i. 181. -Forded by the expedition, 181. -Return to, <a href="#Pageii-262">ii. 262</a>.</li> - -<li>Makata plain, march over the, <a href="#Pageii-261">ii. 261</a>.</li> - -<li>Makimoni, on the Tanganyika lake, <a href="#Pageii-126">ii. 126</a>.</li> - -<li>Makutaniro, adventures at, i. 69.</li> - -<li>Malagarazi river, i. 334, 337. <a href="#Pageii-36">ii. 36</a>, -<a href="#Pageii-39">39</a>, <a href="#Pageii-47">47</a>, <a href="#Pageii-49">49</a>. -First sighted by the party, <a href="#Pageii-407">407</a>. -Described, <a href="#Pageii-408">408</a>, <a href="#Pageii-409">409</a>. -Courses of the, <a href="#Pageii-409">409</a>. -Crossed, <a href="#Pageii-410">410</a>. -Return of the party to the, <a href="#Pageii-164">164</a>.</li> - -<li>Mallok, the Jemadar, sketch of his character and personal appearance, i. 133. -His desertion, and return, 173. -Becomes troublesome, 381, 382. -His refusal to -go northwards, <a href="#Pageii-172">ii. 172</a>. -Influence of bakhshish, <a href="#Pageii-172">172</a>. -Sent home, <a href="#Pageii-277">ii. 277</a>.</li> - -<li>Mamaletua, on the Tanganyika lake, halt of the party at, <a href="#Pageii-115">ii. 115</a>. -Civility of the people of, <a href="#Pageii-115">115</a>.</li> - -<li>M’ana Miaha, sultan of K’hok’ho, i. 272. -Description of him, 274. -His extortionate blackmail, 274.</li> - -<li>Mananzi, or pine-apple, of East Africa, i. 66.</li> - -<li>Manda, the petty chief at Dut’humi, i. 89. -Expedition sent against him, 89.</li> - -<li>Mandama, or Dungomaro, river, arrival of the caravan at the, i. 222. -Description of the bed of the, 223.</li> - -<li>Mangrove forest on the east coast of Africa, i. 9. -Of the Uzaramo, 62.</li> - -<li>Manners and customs of the Wamrima, i. 35, 37. -Of the Wasawahili, 37. -Of the Wazaramo, 108 <i>et seq.</i> -Of the Wak’hutu, 120. -Of the Wadoe, 124. -Of the Wasagara, 235. -Of the Wagogo, 309, 310. -Of the Wahumba, 312. -Of the Wanyamwesi, <a href="#Pageii-23">ii. 23</a>. -Of the Wambozwa, <a href="#Pageii-152">152</a>.</li> - -<li>Mansanza, sultan of Msene, i. 396. -His hospital, 396. -His firm rule, 396. -His wives, 396, 399. -His visits to the author, 399.</li> - -<li>Manufactures of Msene, i. 398.</li> - -<li>Manyora, fiumara of, i. 80.</li> - -<li>Manwa, Sultan of Kigwa, his murders and robberies, i. 319. -His adviser, Mansur, 319.</li> - -<li>Maraim, Abd, or Washhenzi, the, i. 30.</li> - -<li>Mariki, sultan of Uyonwa, <a href="#Pageii-78">ii. 78</a>.</li> - -<li>Marema, sultan, at the Ziwa, i. 254.</li> - -<li>Marenga Mk’hali, or “brackish water,” river, i. 200, 201, -259. -Climate of, 203. -Upper, water of the, 247, 271.</li> - -<li>Maroro, basin of, its fertility, <a href="#Pageii-254">ii. 254</a>. -The place described, <a href="#Pageii-255">255</a>.</li> - -<li>Maroro river, i. 231.</li> - -<li>Marriage amongst the Wazaramo, i. 118. -In Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-24">ii. 24</a>. -In East Africa generally, <a href="#Pageii-332">332</a>.</li> - -<li>Marsh fever, i. 82, 84. -Delirium of, 84.</li> - -<li>Martins in the Rufuta plains, i. 183. -In Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-17">ii. 17</a>.</li> - -<li>“Marts,” custom of, in South Africa, <a href="#Pageii-54">ii. 54</a>.</li> - -<li>Marungu, land of, <a href="#Pageii-149">ii. 149</a>. -Provinces of, <a href="#Pageii-149">149</a>. -Roads in, <a href="#Pageii-149">149</a>. -Description of the country, <a href="#Pageii-150">150</a>. -History of an Arab caravan in, <a href="#Pageii-151">151</a>. -People of, <a href="#Pageii-152">152</a>.</li> - -<li>Maruta, sultan of Uvira, <a href="#Pageii-116">ii. 116</a>. -Visit from his sons, <a href="#Pageii-117">117</a>. -Description of them, <a href="#Pageii-117">117</a>. -His blackmail, <a href="#Pageii-120">120</a>.</li> - -<li>Masenza, arrival of the party at the village of, i. 406, 407.</li> - -<li>Masika, or rainy season, in the second region, i. 231, 232. -Of East Africa, 378.</li> - -<li>Mason-wasps of the houses in East Africa<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-455">[455]</span>, i. 370.</li> - -<li>Masud ibn Musallam el Wardi, sent to Msimbira to recover the stolen papers, i. 325. -His hospitality, 392.</li> - -<li>Masui, village of, <a href="#Pageii-229">ii. 229</a>, <a href="#Pageii-231">231</a>.</li> - -<li>Masury, M. Sam., his kindness to the author, i. 22.</li> - -<li>Mat-weaving in East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-316">ii. 316</a>.</li> - -<li>Maunga Tafuna, province of, <a href="#Pageii-153">ii. 153</a>.</li> - -<li>Maura, or Maula, a sultan of the Wanyamwezi, i. 316. -Visits the caravan, 316. -His hospitality, 316. -Description of him, 316.</li> - -<li>Mauta, Wady el, or Valley of Death, i. 69.</li> - -<li>Mawa, or plantain wine, <a href="#Pageii-180">ii. 180</a>, <a href="#Pageii-197">197</a>. -Mode of making, <a href="#Pageii-287">287</a>.</li> - -<li>Mawiti, colony of Arabs at, i. 326.</li> - -<li>Mazinga, or cannons, bee-hives so called in the interior, i. 200. -Described, 200.</li> - -<li>Mazita, account of, <a href="#Pageii-212">ii. 212</a>.</li> - -<li>Mazungera, P’hazi of Dege la Mhora, i. 75. -Murders his guest, M. Maizan, 75, 76. -Haunted by the P’hepo, or spirit of his guest, 76.</li> - -<li>Mbarika tree, or Palma Christi, of East Africa, i. 48.</li> - -<li>Mbega, or tippet-monkey, in Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-15">ii. 15</a>.</li> - -<li>Mb’hali, village of, described, i. 401.</li> - -<li>Mbembu, a kind of medlar, in Ugogo, i. 300.</li> - -<li>Mbogo, or Bos Caffer, in the plains of East Africa, i. 181. -Described, 181. -In Ugogo, 300. -On the Rusugi river, <a href="#Pageii-40">ii. 40</a>.</li> - -<li>Mboni, son of Ramji, carries off a slave girl, i. 290.</li> - -<li>Mbono tree of East Africa, i. 48.</li> - -<li>Mbugani, “in the wild,” settlement of, described, i. 397.</li> - -<li>Mbugu, or tree-bark, used for clothing in Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-64">ii. 64</a>. -Mode of preparing it, <a href="#Pageii-64">64</a>.</li> - -<li>Mbumi, the deserted village, i. 185.</li> - -<li>Mbungo-bungo tree, a kind of nux vomica, i. 48.</li> - -<li>Mbuyu, or calabash tree, of East Africa, described, i. 47.</li> - -<li>Mchikichi tree of Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-58">ii. 58</a>.</li> - -<li>Mdaburu, trying march in the jungle of, i. 277, 278. -Description of, 279.</li> - -<li>Mdimu nullah, i. 88.</li> - -<li>Meals at Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-89">ii. 89</a>. -In East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-280">280</a>, <a href="#Pageii-334">334</a>.</li> - -<li>Measures of length in East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-388">ii. 388</a>.</li> - -<li>Medicine chest required for the expedition, i. 155.</li> - -<li>Melancholy, inexplicable, of travellers in tropical countries, <a href="#Pageii-130">ii. 130</a>.</li> - -<li>Metrongoma, a wild fruit of Yombo, i. 387.</li> - -<li>Mfu’uni, hill of, i. 170. -Its former importance, 171.</li> - -<li>Mfuto mountains, i. 326.</li> - -<li>Mfuto, clearing of, i. 389.</li> - -<li id="IndRef3">Mganga, or medicine-man of East Africa, described, i. 38. -His modus operandi, 44; <a href="#Pageii-358">ii. 358</a>. -His office as a priest, <a href="#Pageii-350">350</a>. -As a physician, <a href="#Pageii-352">352</a>. -As a detector of sorcery, <a href="#Pageii-356">356</a>. -As a rain-maker, <a href="#Pageii-357">357</a>. -As a prophet, <a href="#Pageii-358">358</a>. -His minor duties, <a href="#Pageii-359">359</a>.</li> - -<li>Mganga, or witch of East Africa, i. 380.</li> - -<li>Mgazi river, i. 86.</li> - -<li>Mgege fish of the Tanganyika Lake, <a href="#Pageii-67">ii. 67</a>.</li> - -<li>Mgeta river, the, i. 80, 159, 160, -166; <a href="#Pageii-268">ii. 268</a>. -Head of the, 80. -Mode of crossing the swollen river, 80. -Pestilence of the banks of the, i. 127. -Fords of the, i. 336; <a href="#Pageii-268">ii. 268</a>.</li> - -<li>Mgongo T’hembo, the Elephant’s Back, arrival of the caravan at, i. 290. -Description of, 290. -Inhabitants of, 290.</li> - -<li>Mgude, or Mparamusi, tree, described, i. 47, 60, 83.</li> - -<li>Mgute fish of the Tanganyika Lake, <a href="#Pageii-67">ii. 67</a>.</li> - -<li>Mgunda Mk’hali, or “the Fiery Field,” i. 281. -Description of, 281, 282. -Stunted vegetation of, 282. -Geology of, 282. -Scarcity of water in, 283. -Traversed by the caravan, 283. -Features of the, 283, 292.</li> - -<li>Miasma of Sorora and Kajjanjeri, i. 403.</li> - -<li>Mikiziwa Lake, in Uguhha, <a href="#Pageii-147">ii. 147</a>.</li> - -<li>Milk of cows in Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-60">ii. 60</a>. -As food in East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-283">283</a>. -Preparations of, <a href="#Pageii-283">283</a>.</li> - -<li>Millepedes, or jongo, in Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-18">ii. 18</a>.</li> - -<li>Mimosa trees, i. 83. -Flowers of the, in Usagara, 228. -Trees in Usagara, 229. -In Unyamwezi, 318. -Of the Usagara mountains, 165.</li> - -<li>Miyandozi, sultan of Kifukaru, i. 264. -Levies blackmail on the caravan, 264.</li> - -<li>Mji Mpia, “new town,” settlement of, described, i. 397. -Bazar of, 397.</li> - -<li>Mkora tree, uses of the wood of the, i. 374.</li> - -<li>Mkorongo tree, uses of the, in East Africa, i. 374.</li> - -<li>Mkuba, or wild edible plum of Yombo, i. 387.</li> - -<li>Mkuyu, or sycamore tree, its magnificence in East Africa, i. 195. -Its two varieties, 195, 196.</li> - -<li>Mkwaju la Mouani, the “Tamarind in the rains,” the village of, described, i. 52.</li> - -<li>Mninga tree, wood of the, i. 373. -Use of the wood, 373.</li> - -<li>Mnya Mtaza, headman of Ukaranga, <a href="#Pageii-45">ii. 45</a>.</li> - -<li>Mohammed bin Khamis, sailing-master of the Artemise, i. 8.</li> - -<li>Mohammed, the Baloch, the Rish Safid, or greybeard, sketch of him<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-456">[456]</span>, -i. 134. -At Kazeh, <a href="#Pageii-381">381</a>.</li> - -<li>Molongwe river, <a href="#Pageii-146">ii. 146</a>.</li> - -<li>Money in East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-388">ii. 388</a>.</li> - -<li>Mombas Mission, the, i. 6, 7.</li> - -<li>Mongo Nullah, the, i. 289. -Water obtained at the, 289.</li> - -<li>Mongoose, the, at Dut’humi, i. 87.</li> - -<li>Monkeys of Muhinyera, i. 64. -Of Usagara mountains, 162. -In Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-15">ii. 15</a>.</li> - -<li>Monkey-bread, <a href="#Pageii-221">ii. 221</a>.</li> - -<li>Monsoon, the N. E., or Kaskazi, of East Africa, i. 83, 102. -In Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-9">ii. 9</a>. -Origin of the S. W. monsoon, <a href="#Pageii-50">50</a>. -Failure of the opportunity for comparing the hygrometry of the African and Indian monsoons, <a href="#Pageii-93">93</a>.</li> - -<li>Moon, Land of the. <i>See</i> <a href="#IndRef4">Unyamwezi</a>.</li> - -<li>Moon, her splendour at the equator, i. 162. -Halo or corona round the, in Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-11">ii. 11</a>, <a href="#Pageii-12">12</a>.</li> - -<li>Morality, deficiency of, of the East Africans, <a href="#Pageii-335">ii. 335</a>.</li> - -<li>Morus alba, the, in Uzaramo, i. 60.</li> - -<li>Mosquitoes of East Africa described, i. 182. -On the Ruche river, <a href="#Pageii-52">ii. 52</a>, <a href="#Pageii-158">158</a>.</li> - -<li>Mouma islands, <a href="#Pageii-153">ii. 153</a>.</li> - -<li>Moumo tree (Borassus flabelliformis), of East Africa, i. 47, 180. -Toddy drawn from, 181.</li> - -<li>Mountains:—</li> -<li class="level1">Dut’humi, i. 65, 83, 86, -119.</li> -<li class="level1">Jiwe la Mkoa, i. 286, 287, 295.</li> -<li class="level1">Karagwah, <a href="#Pageii-48">ii. 48</a>, 144, 177.</li> -<li class="level1">Kilima Ngao, <a href="#Pageii-179">ii. 179</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Kiringawana, i. 233.</li> -<li class="level1">Lunar, <a href="#Pageii-144">ii. 144</a>, 178.</li> -<li class="level1">Mfuto, i. 326.</li> -<li class="level1">Mukondokwa, i. 180, 185, 194, -203, 233.</li> -<li class="level1">Ngu, or Nguru, i. 87, 125, 225.</li> -<li class="level1">Njesa, i. 226.</li> -<li class="level1">Rubeho, i. 203, 211, 214, -218, 245.</li> -<li class="level1">Rufuta, i. 167, 170, 180.</li> -<li class="level1">Uhha, <a href="#Pageii-160">ii. 160</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Urundi, i. 409, <a href="#Pageii-48">ii. 48</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Usagara, i. 101, 119, 159, -160, 215, 219, 225, -297.</li> -<li class="level1">Wahumba, i. 295.</li> -<li class="level1">Wigo, i. 159.</li> - -<li>Mountains, none in Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-6">ii. 6</a>.</li> - -<li>Mpagamo of Kigandu, defeated by Msimbira, i. 327.</li> - -<li>Mparamusi, or Mgude, tree, i. 47, 60, 83.</li> - -<li>Mpete, on the Malagarazi river, i. 410.</li> - -<li>Mpingu tree, i. 373. -Uses of the wood of the, 373.</li> - -<li>Mporota, a den of thieves, halt at, <a href="#Pageii-252">ii. 252</a>.</li> - -<li>Mrima, or “hill-land,” of the East African -coast, described, i. 8, 30. -Inhabitants of, 30. -Their mode of life, 35. -Mode of doing business in, 39. -Vegetation of the, 47. -Geography of the, 100. -Climate of the, 102, 104. -Diseases of the, 105. -Roads of the, 105, 106. -Ethnology of the, 106.</li> - -<li>Mororwa, sultan of Wilyankuru, i. 391.</li> - -<li>Msandarusi, or copal-tree, of Uzaramo, i. 63.</li> - -<li>Msene, settlement of, arrival of the party at, i. 395. -Description of, 395, 396. -Sultan Masawza of, 396. -Prices at, 397. -Productions of, 397, 398. -Currency of, 398. -Industry of, 398. -Habits of the people of, 398. -Climate of, 399.</li> - -<li>Msimbira, sultan of the Wasukuma, i. 319. -Papers of the party stolen and carried to him, 320. -Refuses to restore them, 320. -Send a party to cut off the road, 321. -Defeats Sultan Mpagamo, 327.</li> - -<li>Msopora, Sultan, restores the stolen goods, <a href="#Pageii-166">ii. 166</a>.</li> - -<li>Msufi, a silk-cotton tree, in Uzaramo, i. 60.</li> - -<li>Msukulio tree of Uzaramo, i. 61, 83.</li> - -<li>Mtanda, date of the establishment of the kingdom of, <a href="#Pageii-5">ii. 5</a>.</li> - -<li>Mtego, or elephant traps, i. 287. -Disappearance of the Jemadar in one, 288.</li> - -<li>Mt’hipit’hipi, or Abras precatorius, seeds of, used as an ornament, <a href="#Pageii-181">ii. 181</a>.</li> - -<li>Mtogwe tree, a variety of Nux vomica, i. 48. -In Unyamwezi, 318, 401.</li> - -<li>Mtumbara, Sultan, and his quarrel, <a href="#Pageii-157">ii. 157</a>.</li> - -<li>Mtunguja tree of the Mrima, i. 48.</li> - -<li>Mtungulu apples in Ugogo, i. 300.</li> - -<li>Mtuwwa, in Ubwari island, halt of the party at, <a href="#Pageii-114">ii. 114</a>. -Blackmail at, <a href="#Pageii-112">112</a>.</li> - -<li>Mud-fish, African mode of catching, i. 315.</li> - -<li>Mud-fish in the Gombe nullah, i. 334.</li> - -<li>Mud, Yegea, i. 83.</li> - -<li>Muhama, halt at the nullah of, i. 176, 178.</li> - -<li>Muhinna bin Sulayman of Kazeh, his arrival at Kawele, <a href="#Pageii-133">ii. 133</a>. -His extortion, <a href="#Pageii-133">133</a>.</li> - -<li>Muhinna bin Sulayman, the Arab merchant of Kazeh, i. 323.</li> - -<li>Muhiyy-el-Din, Shafehi Hazi of Zanzibar, i. 7.</li> - -<li>Muhiyy-el-Din, Kazi, of the Wasawahili, i. 33.</li> - -<li>Muhonge, settlement of, described, i. 63.</li> - -<li>Muhonyera, district of, described, i. 63. -Wild animals, 63.</li> - -<li>Mui’ Gumbi, Sultan of the Warori, <a href="#Pageii-271">ii. 271</a>. -Defeated by Sultan Ironga, <a href="#Pageii-75">75</a>. -Description of him, <a href="#Pageii-271">271</a>.</li> - -<li>Muikamba, on the Tanganyika Lake, night spent at, <a href="#Pageii-115">ii. 115</a>.</li> - -<li>Muingwira river, <a href="#Pageii-211">ii. 211</a>.</li> - -<li>Muinyi Wazira, engaged to travel with the -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-457">[457]</span> -expedition, i. 52. -Sketch of his character, <a href="#Pageii-129">129</a>. -Requests to be allowed to depart, <a href="#Pageii-314">314</a>. -His debauch and dismissal, <a href="#Pageii-399">399</a>. -Reappears at Kazeh, <a href="#Pageii-168">ii. 168</a>. -Ejected, <a href="#Pageii-168">168</a>.</li> - -<li>Muinyi, halt of the party at, i. 193. -Determined attitude of the people of, 194.</li> - -<li>Muinyi Chandi, passed through, i. 390.</li> - -<li>Mukondokwa mountains, i. 180, 185, 196, -197, 203, 233. -Bleak raw air of the, 197.</li> - -<li>Mukondokwa river, i. 88, 181, 188, -192, 311. -Ford of, 188. -Valley of the, 192.</li> - -<li>Mukozimo district, arrival of the party at the, i. 407. -Inhospitality of the chiefs of, 407.</li> - -<li>Mukunguru, or seasoning fever, of Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-14">ii. 14</a>.</li> - -<li>Mulberry, the whitish-green, of Uzaramo, i. 60.</li> - -<li>Murchison, Sir R., his triumphant geological hypothesis, i. 409. -His notice respecting the interior of Africa, 409, <i>note</i>.</li> - -<li>Murunguru river, <a href="#Pageii-154">ii. 154</a>.</li> - -<li>Murivumba, tents of the party pitched at, <a href="#Pageii-114">ii. 114</a>. -Cannibal inhabitants of, <a href="#Pageii-114">114</a>.</li> - -<li>Murundusi, march to, <a href="#Pageii-250">ii. 250</a>.</li> - -<li>Musa, the assistant Rish Safid of the party, sketch of him, i. 138.</li> - -<li>Musa Mzuri, handsome Moses, of Kazeh, i. 323. -His return to Kazeh, <a href="#Pageii-223">ii. 223</a>. -His history, <a href="#Pageii-223">223</a>. -His hospitality, <a href="#Pageii-226">226</a>. -Visits the expedition at Masui, <a href="#Pageii-231">231</a>. -His kindness, <a href="#Pageii-231">231</a>.</li> - -<li>Music and musical instruments in East Africa, described, <a href="#Pageii-291">ii. 291</a>, <a href="#Pageii-338">338</a>. -Of the Wajiji, <a href="#Pageii-98">98</a>.</li> - -<li>Mutware, or Mutwale, the Lord of the Ferry of the Malagarazi river, i. 409.</li> - -<li>Muzungu, or white man, dangers of accompanying a, in Africa, i. 10, 11.</li> - -<li>Muzunga Mbaya, the wicked white man, the plague of the party, <a href="#Pageii-239">ii. 239</a>. -His civility near home, <a href="#Pageii-240">240</a>. -Sketch of his personal appearance, and specimen of his conversation, <a href="#Pageii-244">244</a>.</li> - -<li>Mvirama, a Mzaramo chief, demands rice, i. 80.</li> - -<li>Mviraru, a Wazaramo chief, bars the road, i. 58.</li> - -<li>Mvoro fish in the Tanganyika Lake, <a href="#Pageii-67">ii. 67</a>.</li> - -<li>Mvule trees used for making canoes, <a href="#Pageii-147">ii. 147</a>.</li> - -<li>Mwami, or wild coffee of Karagwah, <a href="#Pageii-180">ii. 180</a>, <a href="#Pageii-181">181</a>, -<a href="#Pageii-187">187</a>.</li> - -<li>Mwimbe, or mangrove trees, of the coast of East Africa, i. 9. -Those of Uzaramo, 62.</li> - -<li>Mwimbi, bad camping ground of, <a href="#Pageii-262">ii. 262</a>.</li> - -<li>Mwongo fruit tree, in Mb’hali, i. 401.</li> - -<li>Mgombi river, i. 183.</li> - -<li>Myombo tree of East Africa described, i. 184. -Of Usagara, 229.</li> - -<li>Mzimu, or Fetiss hut, of the Wazaramo, described, i. 57. -In Ubwari Island, halt at, <a href="#Pageii-113">ii. 113</a>. -Re-visited, <a href="#Pageii-121">121</a>.</li> - -<li>Mziga Mdogo, or “The Little Tamarind,” arrival of the party at, i. 161.</li> - -<li>Mziga-ziga, a mode of carrying goods, i. 341.</li> - -<li>Mzogera, Sultan of Uvinza, i. 408. -His power, 408. -Settlement of blackmail with envoys of, 408.</li> - -<li class="newletter">Names given to children by the Wazaramo, i. 116.</li> - -<li>Nakl, or first stage of departure, i. 43.</li> - -<li>Nar, Beni, “sons of fire,” the English so called in Africa, i. 31.</li> - -<li>Nautch at Kuingani described, i. 45.</li> - -<li>Ndabi tree, i. 196. -Fruit of the, 196.</li> - -<li>Ndabi, halt of the caravan at, i. 196.</li> - -<li>Navigation of the Tanganyika Lake, antiquity of the mode of, <a href="#Pageii-96">ii. 96</a>.</li> - -<li>Necklaces of shells worn in Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-65">ii. 65</a>.</li> - -<li>Nge, or scorpions, of East Africa, i. 370.</li> - -<li>Ngole, or Dendraspis, at Dut’humi, i. 87.</li> - -<li>Night in the Usagara mountains, i. 162. -In the caravan, described, 359.</li> - -<li>Nile, White, Ptolemy’s notion of the origin of the, <a href="#Pageii-178">ii. 178</a>. -Captain Speke’s supposed discovery of the sources of the, <a href="#Pageii-204">204</a>.</li> - -<li>Njasa, Sultan of the Wasagara, his visit to the expedition, i. 199. -Description of him, 199. -Makes “sare” or brotherhood with Said bin Salim, 199.</li> - -<li>Njesa mountains, i. 226.</li> - -<li>Njugu ya Nyassa, the Arachis Hypogæa, as an article of food, i. 198.</li> - -<li>Northern kingdoms of Africa. <i>See</i> <a href="#IndRef5">Karagwah</a>, <a href="#IndRef6">Uganda</a>, and -<a href="#IndRef7">Unyoro</a>.</li> - -<li>Nose pincers of the Wajiji tribe, <a href="#Pageii-65">ii. 65</a>.</li> - -<li>Nullahs, or watercourses of East Africa, i. 102.</li> - -<li>Nutmeg, wild, of Usui, <a href="#Pageii-176">ii. 176</a>.</li> - -<li>Nyakahanga, in Karagwah, <a href="#Pageii-177">ii. 177</a>.</li> - -<li>Nyanza, or Ukerewe, Lake, i. 311, 439; -<a href="#Pageii-175">ii. 175</a>, <a href="#Pageii-176">176</a>, <a href="#Pageii-179">179</a>. -Chances of exploration of the, <a href="#Pageii-195">195</a>. -Geography of the, <a href="#Pageii-206">206</a>, <a href="#Pageii-210">210</a>, <i>et seq.</i> -Size of the, <a href="#Pageii-212">212</a>. -Position of the, <a href="#Pageii-211">211</a>. -Commerce of the, <a href="#Pageii-215">215</a>. -Savage races of the, <a href="#Pageii-215">215</a>. -Reasons why it is not the head stream of the White Nile, <a href="#Pageii-218">218</a>. -Tribes dwelling near the, <a href="#Pageii-219">219</a>.</li> - -<li>Nyara, or Chamærops humilis, of the Mrima, i. 48.</li> - -<li>Nyasanga, fishing village on the Tanganyika lake, <a href="#Pageii-101">ii. 101</a>.</li> - -<li>Nzasa, halt at the, i. 54.</li> - -<li>Nzige, or locusts, flights of, in Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-18">ii. 18</a>. -Varieties of, <a href="#Pageii-18">18</a>.</li> - -<li class="newletter">Oars not used on the Tanganyika Lake<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-458">[458]</span>, -<a href="#Pageii-96">ii. 96</a>.</li> - -<li>Ocelot, the, of Ugogi, i. 242.</li> - -<li>Oil, common kind of, in East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-285">ii. 285</a>. -Various kinds of, <a href="#Pageii-285">285</a>.</li> - -<li>Olive-tree unknown in East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-285">ii. 285</a>.</li> - -<li>Olympus, the Æthiopian, <a href="#Pageii-179">ii. 179</a>.</li> - -<li>Onions cultivated in Unyamwezi, i. 330.</li> - -<li>Ophthalmia, several of the party suffer from, in Unyamwezi, i. 406.</li> - -<li>Ophidia in Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-17">ii. 17</a>.</li> - -<li>Ordeal for witchcraft, <a href="#Pageii-357">ii. 357</a>. -Amongst the Wazaramo, i. 114.</li> - -<li>Ornaments worn by the Wazaramo, i. 110. -By the Wak’hutu, 120. -Fondness of the Africans for, 147, 148, 150. -Of the Wasagara tribe, 199, 237. -Of the Wagogo, 305. -Of the Wahumba, 312. -Of the porters of caravans, 349. -Of sultans in East Africa, 396. -Of the Wakimba, <a href="#Pageii-20">ii. 20</a>. -Of the Wanyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-22">22</a>. -Of the Wabuha, <a href="#Pageii-78">78</a>. -Of the Wabwari islanders, <a href="#Pageii-113">113</a>. -Of the people of Karagwah, <a href="#Pageii-181">181</a>.</li> - -<li>Ostriches in Ugogo, i. 301. -Value of feathers in East Africa, i. 301.</li> - -<li>Outfit of the expedition, articles required for the, i. 151.</li> - -<li>Oxen of Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-59">ii. 59</a>.</li> - -<li class="newletter">Paddles used on the Tanganyika lake, <a href="#Pageii-96">ii. 96</a>. -Described, <a href="#Pageii-96">96</a>.</li> - -<li>Palm, Syphæna, i. 82, 83.</li> - -<li>Palma Christi, or Mbarika, of East Africa, i. 48.</li> - -<li>Palm-oil, or mawezi, of the shores of the Lake Tanganyika, <a href="#Pageii-58">ii. 58</a>. -Mode of extracting it, <a href="#Pageii-58">58</a>, <a href="#Pageii-59">59</a>. -Price at the lake, <a href="#Pageii-59">59</a>. -Uses to which it is applied, <a href="#Pageii-59">59</a>. -Trade in, at Wafanya, <a href="#Pageii-107">107</a>.</li> - -<li>Palmyra tree (Borassus flabelliformis), in the plains, i. 180. -Toddy drawn from, 181. -At Yambo, 387. -And at Mb’hali, 401. -Tapped for toddy at Msene, 398.</li> - -<li>Pangani river, <a href="#Pageii-179">ii. 179</a>.</li> - -<li>Papazi, pest of, in East Africa, i. 371.</li> - -<li>Papilionaceæ in Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-18">ii. 18</a>.</li> - -<li>Panda, village of, i. 403.</li> - -<li>Pano, village of, i. 389.</li> - -<li>Parugerero, district of, in Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-37">ii. 37</a>. -Salt manufacture of, <a href="#Pageii-37">37</a>.</li> - -<li>Partridges in the Doab of the Mgeta river i. 81.</li> - -<li>Pazi bug, the, of East Africa, i. 371.</li> - -<li>Peewit, the, in the Rufuta plains, i. 183.</li> - -<li>Phantasmata in East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-352">ii. 352</a>.</li> - -<li>P’hazi, or headmen of the Wazaramo, i. 54, 113. -Of the Wak’hutu, 121.</li> - -<li>P’hepo, ghost or devil, African belief in, i. 88; <a href="#Pageii-352">ii. 352</a>. -Exorcism, <a href="#Pageii-352">352</a>.</li> - -<li>Phlebotomy in East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-322">ii. 322</a>.</li> - -<li>Pig-nuts of East Africa, i. 198.</li> - -<li>Pillaw in Africa, i. 393. -How to boil rice, 393.</li> - -<li>Pine-apple, or Mananzi, of East Africa, i. 66.</li> - -<li>Pipes in East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-315">ii. 315</a>.</li> - -<li>Pismires, chungo-fundo or siyafu, of the banks of the rivers in East Africa, described, i. 186. -Its enemy, the maji m’oto, 187.</li> - -<li>Pismires black, annoyance of, at K’hok’ho, i. 276.</li> - -<li>Plantain wine of Karagwah, <a href="#Pageii-180">ii. 180</a>. -And of Uganda, <a href="#Pageii-197">197</a>. -Mode of making it, <a href="#Pageii-287">287</a>.</li> - -<li>Plantains near the Unguwwe river, <a href="#Pageii-41">ii. 41</a>. -Of Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-58">58</a>. -The staff of life in many places, <a href="#Pageii-58">58</a>. -Luxuriance of it, <a href="#Pageii-58">58</a>. -Varieties, <a href="#Pageii-58">58</a>. -Of Uganda, <a href="#Pageii-196">196</a>.</li> - -<li>Playfair, Captain R. L., his “History of Arabia Felix” quoted, i. 68, <i>note</i>.</li> - -<li>Plum, wild, of Yombo, i. 387.</li> - -<li>Plundering expeditions of the Wazaramo, i. 112.</li> - -<li>Poisons used for arrows in Africa, <a href="#Pageii-301">ii. 301</a>.</li> - -<li>Polygamy amongst the Wanyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-24">ii. 24</a>.</li> - -<li>Pombe beer, of East Africa, i. 95, 116, 333; -<a href="#Pageii-180">ii. 180</a>, <a href="#Pageii-285">285</a>. -Universal use of, i. 309; <a href="#Pageii-29">ii. 29</a>. -Mode of making it, <a href="#Pageii-286">286</a>.</li> - -<li>Porcupines in K’hutu, i. 160.</li> - -<li>Porridge of the East Africans, i. 35.</li> - -<li>Porridge flour, of the Wanyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-29">ii. 29</a>.</li> - -<li>Porters, or Pagazi, the Wanyamwezi, of the expedition, i. 143. -Character of East African, 144. -In East Africa, 337. -Variations of porterage, 339. -Great weight carried sometimes by, 341. -Their discontent, 343. -Desertion of in Wilyankuru, 391. -Description of those hired in Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-157">ii. 157</a>. -Of the Warori, <a href="#Pageii-271">271</a>.</li> - -<li>Pottery, art of, in East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-313">ii. 313</a>.</li> - -<li>Prices at Msene, i. 397. -In the market at Unyanyembe, 333. -In Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-72">ii. 72</a>. -At Wafanya, <a href="#Pageii-107">107</a>. -At Uvira, <a href="#Pageii-120">120</a>, <a href="#Pageii-121">121</a>.</li> - -<li>Proverbs, Arab, i. 50, 86, 130, -133, 135, 382.</li> - -<li>—— African, i. 31.</li> - -<li>—— Moslem, <a href="#Pageii-131">ii. 131</a>.</li> - -<li>—— Persian, <a href="#Pageii-237">ii. 237</a>.</li> - -<li>—— Sanscrit, i. 133.</li> - -<li>—— Wanyamwezi, i. 338.</li> - -<li>Pumpkins, junsal or boga, grown at Marenga Mk’hali, i. 201.</li> - -<li>Punishments in Uganda, <a href="#Pageii-192">ii. 192</a>.</li> - -<li>Punishments in East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-364">ii. 364</a>.</li> - -<li>Punneeria coagulans of the Mrima, i. 48.</li> - -<li class="newletter">Quaggas in Unyamwezi<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-459">[459]</span>, <a href="#Pageii-15">ii. 15</a>.</li> - -<li class="newletter">Races of the Northern Kingdoms of Africa, <a href="#Pageii-174">ii. 174</a>, <a href="#Pageii-175">175</a>.</li> - -<li>Rahmat, the Baloch, i. 46.</li> - -<li>Rain at Zungomero, i. 156. -Autumnal, at Muhama, 179. -In the Usagara mountains, 218, 231, 232. -In Ugogo, 298. -The Masika or wet season, 378. -In Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-8">ii. 8-10</a>. -In the valley of the Malagarazi river, <a href="#Pageii-49">49</a>. -In Karagwah, <a href="#Pageii-180">180</a>.</li> - -<li>Rainbow, fog, in the Usagara mountains, i. 222.</li> - -<li>Ramji, the Banyan of Cutch, engaged to accompany the expedition, i. 10. -His commercial speculation, 20. -His conversation with Ladha Damha, 23. -Visits the author at Kuingani, 43. -Account of him, 43, 44. -His advice, 45.</li> - -<li>Ramji, “sons” of, sketch of them, i. 140. -Their ever-increasing baggage, 182. -Their quarrels with the Baloch soldiers, 163. -Their insolence, 164. -Reappear at Kazeh, <a href="#Pageii-168">ii. 168</a>. -Allowed to take the places of porters, <a href="#Pageii-227">227</a>. -Return home, <a href="#Pageii-277">ii. 277</a>.</li> - -<li>Ranæ of Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-17">ii. 17</a>. -Of the Tanganyika Lake, <a href="#Pageii-61">ii. 61</a>.</li> - -<li>Rats, field, i. 160. -On the banks of the Mukondokwa river, 193. -House rats of Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-60">ii. 60</a>.</li> - -<li>Ravens of the Usagara mountains, i. 162.</li> - -<li>Religion of the Wazaramo, i. 115. -Of the East Africans, <i>ib.</i>; <a href="#Pageii-341">ii. 341</a>. -An African’s notion of God, <a href="#Pageii-348">348</a> <i>note</i>.</li> - -<li>Reptiles in Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-17">ii. 17</a>.</li> - -<li>Respect, tokens of, amongst the Wajiji, <a href="#Pageii-69">ii. 69</a>.</li> - -<li>Revenge of the African, <a href="#Pageii-329">ii. 329</a>.</li> - -<li>Revenue, sources of, in East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-365">ii. 365</a>.</li> - -<li>Rhinoceroses at Dut’humi, i. 87. -On the road to Ugogo, 247. -On the Mgunda Mk’hali, 289. -In Ugogo, 300. -In Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-15">ii. 15</a>. -The Rhinoceros horn trade of East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-413">413</a>.</li> - -<li>Rice, how to cook, i. 393. -Red, density and rapidity of growth of, at Msene, 397. -Luxuriance of, in Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-57">ii. 57</a>. -Allowed to degenerate, <a href="#Pageii-57">57</a>. -Unknown in Karagwah, <a href="#Pageii-180">180</a>.</li> - -<li>Ricinæ of East Africa, i. 371.</li> - -<li>Rigby, Captain, at Zanzibar, <a href="#Pageii-382">ii. 382</a>.</li> - -<li>Rivers:—</li> -<li class="level1">Dungomaro, or Mandama, i. 222.</li> -<li class="level1">Gama, i. 123.</li> -<li class="level1">Kariba, <a href="#Pageii-146">ii. 146</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Karindire, <a href="#Pageii-146">ii. 146</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Katonga, <a href="#Pageii-187">ii. 187</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">K’hutu, i. 86.</li> -<li class="level1">Kibaiba, <a href="#Pageii-146">ii. 146</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Kingani, i. 56, 69, 87, -101, 123, 231.</li> -<li class="level1">Kikoboga, <a href="#Pageii-263">ii. 263</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Kitangure, or Karagwah, i. 409; <a href="#Pageii-144">ii. 144</a>, -<a href="#Pageii-177">177</a>, <a href="#Pageii-186">186</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Kuryamavenge, <a href="#Pageii-146">ii. 146</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Malagarazi, i. 334, 337, 407, -408; <a href="#Pageii-36">ii. 36</a>, <a href="#Pageii-39">39</a>, <a href="#Pageii-47">47</a>, -<a href="#Pageii-49">49</a>, <a href="#Pageii-164">164</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Mandama, or Dungomero, <a href="#Pageii-222">222</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Marenga Mk’hali, i. 200, 201.</li> -<li class="level1">Marenga Mk’hali, upper, i. 247.</li> -<li class="level1">Maroro, i. 231.</li> -<li class="level1">Molongwe, <a href="#Pageii-146">ii. 146</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Mgazi, i. 86.</li> -<li class="level1">Mgeta, i. 80, 86, 87, -88, 101, 119, 127, -159, 160, 336; <a href="#Pageii-264">ii. 264</a>, -<a href="#Pageii-268">268</a>, <a href="#Pageii-274">274</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Muingwira, <a href="#Pageii-187">ii. 187</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Mukondokwa, i. 88, 181, 188, -192, 216, 311.</li> -<li class="level1">Myombo, i. 181.</li> -<li class="level1">Mwega, <a href="#Pageii-256">ii. 256</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Pangani, i. 125; <a href="#Pageii-179">ii. 179</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Ruche, <a href="#Pageii-46">ii. 46</a>, <a href="#Pageii-52">52</a>, <a href="#Pageii-157">157</a>, -<a href="#Pageii-158">158</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Rufiji, or Rwaha, i. 30, 101, -119, 216, 220, 225, -231; <a href="#Pageii-257">ii. 257</a>, <a href="#Pageii-270">270</a>, <a href="#Pageii-379">379</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Rufuta, i. 167.</li> -<li class="level1">Ruguvu, or Luguvu, <a href="#Pageii-40">ii. 40</a>, <a href="#Pageii-52">52</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Rumangwa, <a href="#Pageii-149">ii. 149</a>, <a href="#Pageii-153">153</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Rumuma, i. 197.</li> -<li class="level1">Rusizi, or Lusizi, <a href="#Pageii-117">ii. 117</a>, <a href="#Pageii-146">146</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Rusugi, <a href="#Pageii-37">ii. 37</a>, <a href="#Pageii-161">161</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Rwaha, or Rufiti, i. 216, 220, -225, 231, 295; <a href="#Pageii-8">ii. 8</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Tumbiri of Dr. Krapf, <a href="#Pageii-217">ii. 217</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Unguwwe, or Uvungwe, <a href="#Pageii-40">ii. 40</a>, <a href="#Pageii-52">52</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Yovu, <a href="#Pageii-257">ii. 257</a>, <a href="#Pageii-258">258</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Zohnwe, i. 127.</li> - -<li>Riza, the Baloch, sketch of him, i. 139.</li> - -<li>Roads in the maritime region of East Africa described, i. 105, 106. -In the Usagara Mountains, 230. -From Ugogo to Unyamwezi, 281. -In Ugogo, 302. -In Unyanyembe, 325. -Description of the roads in East Africa, 335. -In Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-19">ii. 19</a>. -From the Malagarazi Ferry, <a href="#Pageii-51">51</a>.</li> - -<li>Rubeho Mountains, i. 233, 211, 245.</li> - -<li>Rubeho, or “Windy Pass,” painful ascent of the, i. 213. -Scenery from the summit, 214. -Village of Wasagara at the summit, 218.</li> - -<li>Rubeho, the Great, halt at the, i. 215. -Dangerous illness of Capt. Speke at, 215. -His restoration, 215.</li> - -<li>Rubeho, the Little, ascent of the, i. 215. -Fight between the porters and the four Wak’hutu, 216.</li> - -<li>Rubeho, the Third, halt of the caravan at, i. 221.</li> - -<li>Rubuga, arrival of the caravan at, i. 315. -Visit from Abdullah bin Jumah and his flying caravan, 315. -Flood at, 317.</li> - -<li>Ruche river<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-460">[460]</span>, <a href="#Pageii-52">ii. 52</a>. -Mouth of the, <a href="#Pageii-46">46</a>, <a href="#Pageii-157">157</a>.</li> - -<li>Rudi, march to, <a href="#Pageii-251">ii. 251</a>.</li> - -<li>Rufiji river, the, i. 30, 216, 220, -225, 231; <a href="#Pageii-257">ii. 257</a>, <a href="#Pageii-379">379</a>. -Races on the, i. 30.</li> - -<li>Rufita Pass in Umgara, <a href="#Pageii-259">ii. 259</a>.</li> - -<li>Rufuta fiumara, the, i. 167.</li> - -<li>Ruguvu, or Luguvu, river, <a href="#Pageii-40">ii. 40</a>, <a href="#Pageii-52">52</a>. -Fords of the, i. 336.</li> - -<li>Ruhembe rivulet, the, <a href="#Pageii-261">ii. 261</a>. -Halt in the basin of the, <a href="#Pageii-261">261</a>.</li> - -<li>Ruhembe, Sultan, slain by the Watuta, <a href="#Pageii-76">ii. 76</a>.</li> - -<li>Rukunda, or Lukunda, night spent at, i. 407.</li> - -<li>Rumanika of Karagwah, his rebellion and defeat, <a href="#Pageii-183">ii. 183</a>. -Besieges his brother, <a href="#Pageii-224">224</a>.</li> - -<li>Rumuma river, described, i. 197.</li> - -<li>Rumuma, halt of the caravan at, i. 198. -Abundance of its supplies, 198. -Visit from the Sultan Njasa at, 199. -Climate of, 199.</li> - -<li>Rusimba, Sultan of Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-70">ii. 70</a>.</li> - -<li>Rusizi river, <a href="#Pageii-117">ii. 117</a>, <a href="#Pageii-146">146</a>.</li> - -<li>Rusugi river, described, <a href="#Pageii-37">ii. 37</a>. -Forded, <a href="#Pageii-37">37</a>.</li> - -<li>Ruwere, chief of Jambeho, levies “dash” on the party, <a href="#Pageii-36">ii. 36</a>.</li> - -<li>Rwaha river, i. 295, 216, 220, -225, 231; <a href="#Pageii-257">ii. 257</a>.</li> - -<li class="newletter">Sage, in Usagara, i. 228.</li> - -<li>Sangale fish in the Tanganyika Lake, <a href="#Pageii-67">ii. 67</a>.</li> - -<li>Said, Sayyid, Sultan of Zanzibar, the “Imaum of Muscat,” i. 2. -His sons, 2.</li> - -<li>Salim bin Rashid, the Arab merchant, calls on Captain Burton, <a href="#Pageii-228">ii. 228</a>.</li> - -<li>Said bin Salim, appointed Ras Kafilah, or caravan guide, to the expedition, i. 9, -10. -Attacked by fever, 71. -His terror of the Wazaramo, 73. -His generosity through fear, 90. -His character, 129. -His hatred of the Baloch, 163. -His covetousness, 163, 164. -Insolence of his slaves, 164. -His dispute with Kidogo, 255. -His fears, and neglect at Ugogo, 280. -His inhospitality, 287. -His change of behaviour, 382. -His punishment, 384. -His selfishness, 391. -His fears, <a href="#Pageii-125">ii. 125</a>. -Enters into brotherhood with Lurinda, <a href="#Pageii-125">125</a>. -And afterwards with Kannena, <a href="#Pageii-126">126</a>. -His carelessness of the supplies, <a href="#Pageii-127">127</a>. -His impertinence, <a href="#Pageii-159">159</a>, <a href="#Pageii-160">160</a>. -His attempts to thwart the expedition, <a href="#Pageii-172">172</a>. -Pitches tents outside Kazeh, <a href="#Pageii-227">227</a>. -Moves to the village of Masui, <a href="#Pageii-229">229</a>. -Dismissed from his stewardship, <a href="#Pageii-237">237</a>. -His news from Zanzibar, <a href="#Pageii-261">261</a>. -His terror in Uzaramo, <a href="#Pageii-275">275</a>. -Leaves for -home, <a href="#Pageii-277">277</a>. -Visits the author at Zanzibar, <a href="#Pageii-382">382</a>.</li> - -<li>Said bin Ali el Hinawi, the Arab merchant of Kazeh, i. 323.</li> - -<li>Said bin Majid, the Arab merchant of Kazeh, i. 323. -Return of the expedition with his caravan, <a href="#Pageii-157">ii. 157</a>. -Separation from him, <a href="#Pageii-165">165</a>. -Treatment of his people at Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-84">84</a>.</li> - -<li>Said bin Mohammed of Mbuamaji, and his caravan i. 257. -Account of him and his family, 258.</li> - -<li>Said bin Mohammed, Sultan of Irora, i. 389. -His surliness, 389. -Brought to his senses, 389, 390.</li> - -<li>Salim bin Said, the Arab merchant in Wilyankuru, i. 391. -His hospitality, 391.</li> - -<li>Salim bin Masud, the Arab merchant, murdered, i. 328, 391.</li> - -<li>Sanscrit proverb, i. 133.</li> - -<li>Salt, demand for, in Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-82">ii. 82</a>. -Scarcity of, at Wafanya, <a href="#Pageii-108">108</a>. -Stock laid in, <a href="#Pageii-161">ii. 161</a>.</li> - -<li>Salt-pits of K’hutu, i. 92.</li> - -<li>Salt-trade of Parugerero, <a href="#Pageii-37">ii. 37</a>. -Quality of the salt, <a href="#Pageii-37">37</a>.</li> - -<li>Salsaparilla vine of Uzaramo, i. 60.</li> - -<li>Sare, or brother oath, of the Wazaramo, i. 114. -Mode of performing the ceremony, 114. -Ceremony of, performed between Sultan Njasa and Said bin Salim, i. 199.</li> - -<li>Sawahil, or “the shores,” geographical position of the, i. 29, 30. -People of, described, 30.</li> - -<li>Sayf bin Salim, the Arab merchant, account of, i. 83. -Returns to Dut’humi, 128. -His covetousness, 128. -Crushes a servile rebellion, 125.</li> - -<li>Scorpions of East Africa, i. 370. -In the houses in Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-61">ii. 61</a>.</li> - -<li>Seasons, aspect of the, in Ugogo, i. 298. -Eight in Zanzibar, <a href="#Pageii-8">ii. 8</a>. -Two in Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-8">8</a>.</li> - -<li>Seedy Mubarak Bombay, gun-carrier in the expedition, character of, i. 130, 279. -His demand of bakhshish, <a href="#Pageii-173">ii. 173</a>. -His peculiarities, <a href="#Pageii-236">236</a>. -Appointed steward, <a href="#Pageii-237">237</a>.</li> - -<li>Σεληνης ορος of the Greeks, locality of the, <a href="#Pageii-4">ii. 4</a>.</li> - -<li>Servile war in East Africa, i. 125.</li> - -<li>Shahdad, the Baloch, sketch of him, i. 135. -Left behind at Kazeh, 381.</li> - -<li>Sharm, or shame, Oriental, i. 23.</li> - -<li>Sheep of Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-59">ii. 59</a>.</li> - -<li>Shehe, son of Ramji, appointed Kirangozi, <a href="#Pageii-232">ii. 232</a>. -Dismissed, <a href="#Pageii-238">238</a>.</li> - -<li>Shields of the Wasagara tribe, i. 238. -Unknown to the Wagogo, 304. -Carried by the Wahumba, 312. -In Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-23">ii. 23</a>.</li> - -<li>Shoes required for the expedition<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-461">[461]</span>, i. 154.</li> - -<li>Shoka, or battle-axes of the East Africans, <a href="#Pageii-307">ii. 307</a>.</li> - -<li>Shukkah, or loin cloth, of East Africa, i. 149. -Of the Wasagara, 235. -Materials of which it is made, 236.</li> - -<li>Siki, or vinegar of East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-288">ii. 288</a>.</li> - -<li>Sikujui, the lady, added to the caravan, i. 210. -Description of her, 210, 221.</li> - -<li>Silurus, the, of the Mabunguru fiumara, i. 284.</li> - -<li>Sime, or double-edged knives, of the Wasagara, i. 240. -Of the Wagogo, 306. -Of the Wanyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-22">ii. 22</a>. -Of East Africa generally, <a href="#Pageii-307">307</a>.</li> - -<li>Singa fish of the Tanganyika Lake, <a href="#Pageii-68">ii. 68</a>.</li> - -<li>Siroccos at Ugogo, i. 260.</li> - -<li>Siyafu, or black pismires, annoyances of, at K’hok’ho, i. 276.</li> - -<li>Skeletons on the road side, i. 165, 168.</li> - -<li>Skin, colour of the, of the Wazaramo, i. 108. -Of the Wak’hutu, 120. -Of the Wadoe, 124. -Of the Wagogo, 304. -Sebaceous odour of the, of the Wazaramo, 309. -Of the Wanyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-20">ii. 20</a>. -Warundi, <a href="#Pageii-145">145</a>. -Karagwah people, <a href="#Pageii-181">181</a>. -Skin diseases of East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-320">320</a>.</li> - -<li>Slave caravans of East Africa, i. 17. -At Tumba Ihere, 62. -At Zanzibar, 50.</li> - -<li>Slaves and slavery: kidnapping in Inland Magogoni, i. 88. -In Dat’humi, 89. -Slavery in K’hutu, 97, 98, 121. -Kidnappings of the Wazegura, 125. -Pitiable scene presented by a village after a commando, 185. -In Ugogo, 309. -In Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-23">ii. 23</a>. -Of Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-61">61</a>, <a href="#Pageii-71">71</a>. -Prices of slaves in, <a href="#Pageii-62">62</a>, <a href="#Pageii-71">71</a>. -Prices of Wahha slaves at Msene, <a href="#Pageii-79">79</a>. -Not trustworthy in Africa, <a href="#Pageii-111">111</a>. -Their modes of murdering their patrons, <a href="#Pageii-111">111</a>. -Prices of, in Uvira, <a href="#Pageii-121">121</a>. -In Karagwah, <a href="#Pageii-184">184</a>. -In Ubena, <a href="#Pageii-270">270</a>. -Degrading effects of the slave trade, <a href="#Pageii-340">340</a>, <a href="#Pageii-366">366</a>. -Origin of the slave trade of East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-366">366</a>. -Treatment of slaves, <a href="#Pageii-367">367</a>, <a href="#Pageii-369">369</a>. -Two kinds of slave trade, <a href="#Pageii-368">368</a>. -Kidnapping, <a href="#Pageii-369">369</a>. -Character of slaves, <a href="#Pageii-371">371</a>. -Revenge of slaves, <a href="#Pageii-374">374</a>, <a href="#Pageii-375">375</a>. -Female slaves, <a href="#Pageii-375">375</a>. -Prices of slaves, <a href="#Pageii-375">375</a>. -Number of slaves imported yearly into Zanzibar, <a href="#Pageii-377">377</a>. -Ease with which the slave-trade at Zanzibar could be abolished, <a href="#Pageii-377">377</a>.</li> - -<li>Small-pox in the Usagara mountains, i. 166. -And in the up caravans, 179. -The porters of the party attacked by, 180, 184, 190. -In Khalfan’s caravan, 201. -In the caravans in East Africa, 342. -In East Africa generally, <a href="#Pageii-318">ii. 318</a>.</li> - -<li>Smoking parties of women at Yombo, i. 388.</li> - -<li>Snay bin Amir, the Arab merchant of Kazeh, i. 323. -Performs the guest rites there, 323, 324. -Sketch of his career, 324. -His visit to the Sultan of Ugunda, <a href="#Pageii-193">ii. 193</a>. -His kindness, i. 384; <a href="#Pageii-231">ii. 231</a>.</li> - -<li>Snakes at Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-17">ii. 17</a>. -In the houses in Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-61">61</a>.</li> - -<li>Snuff, Wajiji mode of taking, <a href="#Pageii-65">ii. 65</a>.</li> - -<li>Soil, fertility of the, at Msene, i. 397. -Character of the, in Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-6">ii. 6</a>. -Wondrous fertility of the, in the valley of the Malagarazi river, <a href="#Pageii-49">49</a>. -And of that of Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-57">57</a>.</li> - -<li>Soma Giri, of the Hindus, locality of the, <a href="#Pageii-4">ii. 4</a>.</li> - -<li>Songs of the porters of the caravan, <a href="#Pageii-361">ii. 361</a>, <a href="#Pageii-362">362</a>. -Of East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-291">ii. 291</a>.</li> - -<li>Sorghum cultivated in Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-57">ii. 57</a>.</li> - -<li>Sorora, or Solola, in Unyamwezi, arrival of the party at, i. 401. -Its deadly climate, 401.</li> - -<li>Speke, Capt., his illness in Uzaramo, i. 62, 65, 69. -Shakes off his preliminary symptoms, 71. -Lays the foundation of a fever, 82. -Thoroughly prostrated, 84. -Recovers his health at Mzizi Mdogo, 161. -Again attacked at Muhama, 179. -And by “liver” at Rumuma, 200. -Dangerous illness at the Windy Pass, 214. -Restored, 215. -Unable to walk, 286. -Awaits reserve supplies at Kazeh, 386. -Rejoins the caravan, 390. -Tormented by ophthalmia, 406; <a href="#Pageii-86">ii. 86</a>. -Starts on an expedition to explore the northern extremity of the Tanganyika Lake, <a href="#Pageii-87">87</a>. -Returns moist and mildewed, and nothing done, <a href="#Pageii-90">90</a>. -His “Journal” in “Blackwood” referred to, <a href="#Pageii-90">90</a>. -Quoted, <a href="#Pageii-91">91</a> <i>note</i>. -A beetle in his ear, <a href="#Pageii-91">91</a> <i>note</i>. -Joins the second expedition, <a href="#Pageii-99">99</a>. -Improvement in his health, <a href="#Pageii-129">129</a>. -Return journey, <a href="#Pageii-157">157</a>. -His deafness and dimness of vision, <a href="#Pageii-169">169</a>. -Leaves Kazeh for the north, <a href="#Pageii-173">173</a>. -Returns, <a href="#Pageii-204">204</a>. -His supposed discovery of the sources of the White Nile, <a href="#Pageii-204">204</a>. -Taken ill at Hanga, <a href="#Pageii-233">233</a>. -Convalescent, <a href="#Pageii-240">240</a>. -Sights the sea at Konduchi, <a href="#Pageii-279">279</a>. -Returns home, <a href="#Pageii-384">384</a>.</li> - -<li>Spears and assegais of the Wasagara tribe, i. 237. -Of the Wagogo, 306. -Of the Wahumba, 311. -Of the Wanyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-22">ii. 22</a>. -Of East Africa generally, <a href="#Pageii-301">301</a>.</li> - -<li>Spiders of East Africa, i. 371. -In the houses of Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-61">ii. 61</a>.</li> - -<li>Sport in East Africa, remarks on, i. 268.</li> - -<li>Spring, hot, of Maji ya W’heta, i. 159.</li> - -<li>Squirrels, red, in K’hutu, i. 160.</li> - -<li>Stars, their splendour at the equator, i. 163.</li> - -<li>Stares, category of in Africa, <a href="#Pageii-129">ii. 129</a>.</li> - -<li>Stationery required for the expedition, i. 153.</li> - -<li>Steinhæuser, Dr.<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-462">[462]</span>, i. 25.</li> - -<li>Storm in Uzaramo, i. 69. -Those of the rainy monsoon in Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-9">ii. 9</a>. -On the Tanganyika Lake, description of a, <a href="#Pageii-122">122</a>.</li> - -<li>Succession and inheritance, in Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-23">ii. 23</a>.</li> - -<li>Sugar-cane, wild, or Gugu-mbua, i. 71. -In Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-58">ii. 58</a>. -Chewed, <a href="#Pageii-288">288</a>.</li> - -<li>Sugar made of granulated honey, i. 397.</li> - -<li>Suiya, antelope, i. 269.</li> - -<li>Sulphur in Karagwah, <a href="#Pageii-185">ii. 185</a>.</li> - -<li>Sultans, burial-places of, in Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-26">ii. 26</a>. -Power of the Sultan in this country, <a href="#Pageii-31">31</a>. -And in East Africa generally, <a href="#Pageii-362">ii. 362</a>.</li> - -<li>Sun, his splendour at the equator, i. 162. -Ring-cloud tempering the rays of the, in Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-11">ii. 11</a>, <a href="#Pageii-12">12</a>.</li> - -<li>Suna, Sultan of Uganda, <a href="#Pageii-188">ii. 188</a>. -The Arabs’ description of him, <a href="#Pageii-189">189</a>. -His hundred sons, <a href="#Pageii-192">192</a>. -His chief officers, and mode of government, <a href="#Pageii-192">192</a>. -Account of a visit to him, <a href="#Pageii-193">193</a>.</li> - -<li>Sunset-hour on the Indian Ocean, i. 1. -In the Land of the Moon, 387. -In Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-7">ii. 7</a>. -In Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-89">89</a>. -In East Africa generally, <a href="#Pageii-289">289</a>.</li> - -<li>Sunrise on the Tanganyika Lake, <a href="#Pageii-156">ii. 156</a>.</li> - -<li>Superstitions of the Wamrima, i. 38. -Of the Wagogoni, inland, 88. -Of the Wazaramo, 112, 114, 115.</li> - -<li>Supplies, shortness of, <a href="#Pageii-130">ii. 130</a>. -Arrival of some, but inadequate for the purpose, <a href="#Pageii-130">130</a>.</li> - -<li>Surgery in East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-322">ii. 322</a>.</li> - -<li>Suwarora, Sultan, his exorbitant black-mail, <a href="#Pageii-176">ii. 176</a>.</li> - -<li>Swallows in Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-17">ii. 17</a>.</li> - -<li>Swords in East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-308">ii. 308</a>.</li> - -<li>Sycomore tree of East Africa, the Mkuyu, its magnificence, i. 195. -Its two varieties, 195, 196. -Its magnificence in Usagara, 229.</li> - -<li class="newletter">Tailoring in Africa, <a href="#Pageii-201">ii. 201</a>.</li> - -<li>Tamarind trees of the Usagara Mountains, i. 165, 229. -Modes of preparing the fruit, 165. -At Mfuto, 389.</li> - -<li id="IndRef9">Tanganyika Lake, first view of the, described, <a href="#Pageii-42">ii. 42</a>, <a href="#Pageii-43">43</a>. -A boat engaged on the, <a href="#Pageii-45">45</a>. -Seen from Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-47">47</a>. -Hippopotami and crocodiles in, <a href="#Pageii-60">60</a>. -People of the shores of, <a href="#Pageii-62">62</a>, <i>et seq.</i> -Fishing in, <a href="#Pageii-66">66</a>. -Varieties of fish in, <a href="#Pageii-67">67</a>. -Failure of Captain Speke’s expedition for exploring the northern shores of, <a href="#Pageii-90">90</a>. -Preparations for another cruise, <a href="#Pageii-93">93</a>. -Description of the boats of the lake, <a href="#Pageii-94">94</a>. -Navigation of the, <a href="#Pageii-94">94</a>. -Voyage up the, <a href="#Pageii-99">99</a>. -Eastern shores of the, described, <a href="#Pageii-100">100</a>. -Fishing villages, <a href="#Pageii-100">100</a>. -Remarks on boating and voyaging -on the lake, <a href="#Pageii-101">101</a>. -Account of the island of Ubwari, <a href="#Pageii-108">108</a>. -Visit to the island, <a href="#Pageii-113">113</a>. -Further progress stopped, <a href="#Pageii-117">117</a>, <a href="#Pageii-119">119</a>. -Storm on the lake, <a href="#Pageii-122">122</a>. -History of the lake, <a href="#Pageii-134">ii. 134</a> <i>et seq.</i> -Meaning of the name, <a href="#Pageii-137">137</a>. -Extent and general direction of, <a href="#Pageii-137">137</a>. -Altitude of, <a href="#Pageii-139">139</a>. -Sweetness of its water, <a href="#Pageii-139">139</a>. -Its colour, <a href="#Pageii-140">140</a>. -Its depth, <a href="#Pageii-140">140</a>. -Its affluents, <a href="#Pageii-140">140</a>. -Its coasts, <a href="#Pageii-141">141</a>. -No effluents, <a href="#Pageii-141">141</a>. -Its temperature, <a href="#Pageii-142">142</a>. -Its ebb and flow, <a href="#Pageii-143">143</a>. -Physical and ethnological features of its periplus, <a href="#Pageii-144">144</a>. -Sunrise scenery on the lake, <a href="#Pageii-156">156</a>.</li> - -<li>Targes of the East Africans described, <a href="#Pageii-307">ii. 307</a>.</li> - -<li>Tattoo, not general amongst the Wazaramo, i. 108. -Nor amongst the Wak’hutu, 120. -Practised by the Wadoe, 124. -Of the Wanyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-21">ii. 21</a>. -Amongst the Wajiji, <a href="#Pageii-63">63</a>. -Of the Warundi, <a href="#Pageii-145">145</a>.</li> - -<li>Teeth, chipped to points by the Wasagara tribe, i. 235.</li> - -<li>Tembe, the houses beyond Marenga Mk’hali so called, i. 207. -Description of the Tembe of East Africa, 366.</li> - -<li>Tembo, or palm-toddy, a favourite inebrient in Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-70">ii. 70</a>.</li> - -<li>Tenga, in Karagwah, <a href="#Pageii-177">ii. 177</a>.</li> - -<li>Tent-making in Africa, <a href="#Pageii-201">ii. 201</a>.</li> - -<li>Termites of East Africa, i. 201, 202. -In the houses of Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-61">ii. 61</a>.</li> - -<li>Tetemeka, or earthquakes in Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-13">ii. 13</a>.</li> - -<li>Thermometers in Africa, i. 169.</li> - -<li>Thiri, or Ut’hiri, district of, <a href="#Pageii-215">ii. 215</a>.</li> - -<li>Thirst, impatience and selfishness of, of the Baloch guard, i. 205. -African impatience of, 359; <a href="#Pageii-334">ii. 334</a>.</li> - -<li>Thorns, nuisance of, on the road to Ugogo, i. 246.</li> - -<li>Thunder and lightning in Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-9">ii. 9</a>. -In the Malagarazi valley, <a href="#Pageii-50">50</a>. -In Karagwah, <a href="#Pageii-180">180</a>.</li> - -<li>Timber of East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-415">ii. 415</a>.</li> - -<li>Time, difficulty of keeping, by chronometers in East African travel, i. 189, -190. -Second-hand watches to be preferred, 190.</li> - -<li>Tirikeza, or afternoon march of a caravan, i. 203, 221. -Incidents of one, 204, 205.</li> - -<li>Tobacco, trade of, in East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-418">ii. 418</a>.</li> - -<li>Tobacco, use of, in East Africa, i. 36. -Smoked by women in Unyamwezi, 388. -Chewed by Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-28">ii. 28</a>. -Tobacco of Uganda, <a href="#Pageii-196">196</a>. -Tobacco trade of East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-418">ii. 418</a>.</li> - -<li>Tobacco-pipes of Eastern Africa, i. 388; <a href="#Pageii-315">ii. 315</a>.</li> - -<li>Toddy obtained from the palmyra of Msene only, i. 398. -Extracted from -<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-463">[463]</span> -the Guinea-palm in Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-59">ii. 59</a>. -Prevalence of the use of, in Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-59">59</a>, <a href="#Pageii-70">70</a>. -Of Zanzibar, <a href="#Pageii-287">287</a>.</li> - -<li>Togwa, a drink in Unyamwezi, i. 333. -And in East Africa generally, <a href="#Pageii-286">ii. 286</a>.</li> - -<li>Tombs of the Wamrima and Wazaramo, i. 57.</li> - -<li>Tools required for the expedition, i. 153.</li> - -<li>Tramontana of the Rubeho, or Windy Pass, i. 214.</li> - -<li>Travellers in Africa, advice to, <a href="#Pageii-82">ii. 82</a>. -Melancholy of which travellers in tropical countries complain, <a href="#Pageii-130">130</a>.</li> - -<li>Travelling, characteristics of Arab, in Eastern Africa, <a href="#Pageii-157">ii. 157</a>. -Expense of travelling in East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-229">229</a>.</li> - -<li>Trees in East Africa. <i>See</i> <a href="#IndRef8">Vegetation</a>.</li> - -<li>Tree-bark used for clothing in Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-64">ii. 64</a>. -Mode of preparing it, <a href="#Pageii-64">64</a>.</li> - -<li>Trove, treasure, Arab care of, i. 258.</li> - -<li>Tumba Ihere, the P’hazi, i. 54. -His station, 62. -Slave caravans at, 62. -Accompanies the expedition, 62, 65.</li> - -<li>Tumbiri river of Dr. Krapf, <a href="#Pageii-217">ii. 217</a>.</li> - -<li>Tunda, “the fruit,” malaria of the place, i. 71.</li> - -<li>Tura, arrival of the caravan at the nullah of, i. 291. -And at the village of, 292. -Astonishment of the inhabitants, 292. -Description of, 313. -Return to, <a href="#Pageii-241">ii. 241</a>.</li> - -<li>Turmeric at Muinyi Chandi, i. 390.</li> - -<li>Twanigana, elected Kirangozi, <a href="#Pageii-239">ii. 239</a>. -His conversation, <a href="#Pageii-243">243</a>.</li> - -<li>Twins amongst the Wazaramo, i. 116. -Treatment of, in Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-23">ii. 23</a>.</li> - -<li>Tzetze, a stinging jungle fly, i. 187. -At K’hok’ho, 276. -On the Mgunda Mk’hali, 289.</li> - -<li class="newletter">Ubena, land of, described, <a href="#Pageii-269">ii. 269</a>. -People of, <a href="#Pageii-270">270</a>. -Commerce and currency of, <a href="#Pageii-270">270</a>.</li> - -<li>Ubeyya, province of, <a href="#Pageii-153">ii. 153</a>.</li> - -<li>Ubwari, island of, <a href="#Pageii-108">ii. 108</a>. -De Barros’ account of, quoted, <a href="#Pageii-108">108</a>. -Size and position of, <a href="#Pageii-108">108</a>. -The expedition sails for, <a href="#Pageii-112">112</a>. -Inhabitants of, <a href="#Pageii-113">113</a>. -Halt at, <a href="#Pageii-114">114</a>. -Portuguese accounts of, <a href="#Pageii-135">135</a>.</li> - -<li id="IndRef1">Uchawi, or black magic, how punished by the Wazaramo, i. 113. -Described, 265. -Not generally believed in Ugogo, 307. -Mode of proceeding in cases of, <a href="#Pageii-32">ii. 32</a>. -Belief of the East Africans generally in, <a href="#Pageii-347">347</a>. -Office of the mganga, <a href="#Pageii-356">356</a>.</li> - -<li>Ufipa, district of, on the Tanganyika Lake, i. 153. -Its fertility, 135. -People of, 153.</li> - -<li>Ufyoma, a province of Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-6">ii. 6</a>.</li> - -<li>Ugaga, delay at the village of, i. 408, 410.</li> - -<li>Ugali, or flour porridge, the common food -of East Africa, i. 35. -Of the Wanyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-29">ii. 29</a>.</li> - -<li id="IndRef6">Uganda, road to, <a href="#Pageii-187">ii. 187</a>. -Sultan of, and his government, <a href="#Pageii-188">188</a>.</li> - -<li>Uganza, arrival of the caravan at, i. 407.</li> - -<li>Ugogi, halt of the party at, i. 241. -Abundance of provisions at, 241. -Geography of, 242. -People of, 242. -Animals of, 242. -Pleasant position of, 243. -Its healthiness, 243.</li> - -<li>Ugogo, first view of, from the Usagara mountains, i. 220. -The plains of, reached by the caravan, 223. -Scenery on the road near, 245. -Blackmail at, 252. -Entrance into, 259. -Description of the surrounding country, 259. -The calabash tree at, 260. -Siroccos at, 260. -Reception of the caravan at, 261. -Incidents of the march through, 261-280. -Roads from Ugogo to Unyamwezi, 281. -Geography of Ugogo, 294. -Boundaries of, 294. -No rivers in, 295. -Igneous formation of, 295. -Houses of, 296. -Subsoil of, 296. -Climate of, 297. -Diseases of, 299. -Vegetation of, 299, 300. -Animals of, 300. -Roads of, 302. -Description of the tribes of, 303. -Lodging for caravans in, 354. -Return through, <a href="#Pageii-246">ii. 246</a>.</li> - -<li>Ugoyye, district of, in Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-53">ii. 53</a>.</li> - -<li>Uhha, land of, now a desert, <a href="#Pageii-53">ii. 53</a>. -Laid waste by the Watuta tribe, <a href="#Pageii-76">76</a>, <a href="#Pageii-78">78</a>.</li> - -<li>Uhehe, march through, <a href="#Pageii-250">ii. 250</a>. -People of, <a href="#Pageii-251">251</a>.</li> - -<li>Ujiji, Sea of. <i>See</i> <a href="#IndRef9">Tanganyika, Lake of</a>.</li> - -<li>Ujiji, town of, lodgings for caravans in, i. 354. -Arrival of the party at the, <a href="#Pageii-46">ii. 46</a>. -Scene there, <a href="#Pageii-47">47</a>. -Climate of, <a href="#Pageii-50">50</a>, <a href="#Pageii-51">51</a>. -Boundaries of, <a href="#Pageii-53">53</a>. -Villages and districts of, <a href="#Pageii-53">53</a>. -Camping ground of caravans near, <a href="#Pageii-54">54</a>. -Distance of Ujiji from the coast, and number of stages, <a href="#Pageii-55">55</a>. -History of the country, <a href="#Pageii-56">56</a>. -Trade of, <a href="#Pageii-57">57</a>. -Fertility of the soil of, <a href="#Pageii-57">57</a>. -Bazar of, <a href="#Pageii-59">59</a>. -Fauna of, <a href="#Pageii-60">60</a>. -Slave trade of, <a href="#Pageii-61">61</a>. -Principal tribes in, <a href="#Pageii-62">62</a>. -Inconveniences of a halt at, and of a return journey from, <a href="#Pageii-74">74</a>. -Mode of spending the day at, <a href="#Pageii-87">87</a>.</li> - -<li>Ukami, depopulation of, i. 88.</li> - -<li>Ukaranga, or “land of ground-nuts,” on the Tanganyika Lake, arrival at, <a href="#Pageii-44">ii. 44</a>. -Boundaries of, <a href="#Pageii-52">52</a>. -Wretched villages of, <a href="#Pageii-52">52</a>. -Apathy of the people, <a href="#Pageii-52">52</a>. -Etymology of the name, <a href="#Pageii-52">52</a>.</li> - -<li>Ukerewe, <a href="#Pageii-212">ii. 212</a>. -Account of, <a href="#Pageii-212">212</a>, <a href="#Pageii-213">213</a>. -People of, <a href="#Pageii-212">212</a>. -Commerce of, <a href="#Pageii-213">213</a>.</li> - -<li>Ukhindu, or brab-tree, i. 48.</li> - -<li>Ukona, reached by the caravan, i. 318.</li> - -<li>Ukungwe, village of, i. 403.</li> - -<li>Ukungwe, islands of, <a href="#Pageii-151">ii. 151</a>.</li> - -<li>Umbilical region, protrusion of the, in the children of the Wazaramo<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-464">[464]</span>, -<a href="#Pageii-117">ii. 117</a>.</li> - -<li>Unguwwe, or Uvungwe, river, <a href="#Pageii-40">ii. 40</a>, <a href="#Pageii-52">52</a>. -Forded, <a href="#Pageii-40">40</a>.</li> - -<li>Unyanguruwwe, settlement of, i. 408.</li> - -<li>Unyangwira, a province of Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-6">ii. 6</a>.</li> - -<li>Unyanyembe district, rice lands of the, i. 321. -Aspect of the land, 321. -Description of it, 325; <a href="#Pageii-5">ii. 5</a>. -Roads in, i. 325. -Its physical features, 326. -Its villages, 326. -History of the Arab settlements in, 327. -Food in, 329, 331-334. -Prices in, 333.</li> - -<li id="IndRef4">Unyamwezi, or the Land of the Moon, i. 313. -Arrival of the caravan in the, 314. -Lodgings for caravans in, 354. -Geography of, <a href="#Pageii-1">ii. 1</a>. -Boundaries and extent of, <a href="#Pageii-2">2</a>. -Altitude of, <a href="#Pageii-2">2</a>. -The country as known to the Portuguese, <a href="#Pageii-2">2</a>. -Corruptions of the name, <a href="#Pageii-2">2</a>, <a href="#Pageii-3">3</a>. -Etymology of the word, <a href="#Pageii-3">3</a>, <a href="#Pageii-4">4</a>. -Barbarous traditions of its having been a great empire, <a href="#Pageii-4">4</a>. -Portuguese accounts of its former greatness, <a href="#Pageii-5">5</a>. -Its present political condition, <a href="#Pageii-5">5</a>. -Its dialects, <a href="#Pageii-5">5</a>. -Provinces into which it is divided, <a href="#Pageii-5">5</a>. -General appearance of the country, <a href="#Pageii-6">6</a>. -Its geology, <a href="#Pageii-6">6</a>. -Peaceful rural beauty of the country, <a href="#Pageii-7">7</a>. -Water and rice fields, <a href="#Pageii-7">7</a>. -Versant of Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-8">8</a>. -Its two seasons, <a href="#Pageii-8">8</a>. -Its rainy monsoon, <a href="#Pageii-8">8-10</a>. -The hot season, <a href="#Pageii-11">11</a>. -Diseases of the country, <a href="#Pageii-11">11</a>, <a href="#Pageii-13">13</a>, <a href="#Pageii-14">14</a>. -Whirlwinds and earthquakes, <a href="#Pageii-11">11</a>, <a href="#Pageii-13">13</a>. -Curious effects of the climate, <a href="#Pageii-14">14</a>. -Fauna of Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-15">15</a>. -Roads in, <a href="#Pageii-19">19</a>. -Notice of the races of, <a href="#Pageii-19">19</a>.</li> - -<li>Unyoro, dependent, <a href="#Pageii-187">ii. 187</a>.</li> - -<li id="IndRef7">Unyoro, independent, land of, <a href="#Pageii-197">ii. 197</a>. -People of, <a href="#Pageii-197">197</a>.</li> - -<li>Urundi, mountains of, i. 409; <a href="#Pageii-48">ii. 48</a>. -Arrival of the expedition in the region of, <a href="#Pageii-101">101</a>. -People of, <a href="#Pageii-107">107</a>, <a href="#Pageii-117">117</a>. -Description of the kingdom of, <a href="#Pageii-144">144</a>. -Governments of, <a href="#Pageii-145">145</a>. -People of, <a href="#Pageii-145">145</a>. -Route to, <a href="#Pageii-169">169</a>.</li> - -<li>Uruwwa, the present terminus of trade, <a href="#Pageii-147">ii. 147</a>. -People of, <a href="#Pageii-147">147</a>. -Prices at, <a href="#Pageii-147">147</a>.</li> - -<li>Usagara mountains, i. 87, 159, 215, -297, 335. -Ascent of the, 160. -Halt in the, 161. -Healthiness of the, 161. -Vegetation of the, 162, 165. -Water in the, 218. -Descent of the counterslope of the, 219. -View from the, 220. -Geography of the, 225, <i>et seq.</i> -Geology of the, 227. -Fruits and flowers of the, 228. -Magnificent trees of the, 129. -Water-channels and cultivation of the ground in the, 229. -Village of the, 229. -Supplies of food in the, 229. -Roads of the, 230. -Water -for drinking in the, 230. -Climate of the, 231. -Diseases of the, 233. -The tribes inhabiting the, 233.</li> - -<li>Usagozi, a province of Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-6">ii. 6</a>. -March to, i. 405. -Insolence of the men of, 405. -Description of the town of, and country around, 405. -Sultan and people of, 406.</li> - -<li>Usek’he, in Ugogo, i. 272.</li> - -<li>Usenda, capital of the Sultan Kazembe, <a href="#Pageii-148">ii. 148</a>. -Trade of Usenda, <a href="#Pageii-148">148</a>.</li> - -<li>Usenge, arrival of the party at the clearing of, i. 407.</li> - -<li>Usoga, Land of, <a href="#Pageii-197">ii. 197</a>. -People of, <a href="#Pageii-197">197</a>.</li> - -<li>Usui, road and route from Unyanyembe to, <a href="#Pageii-175">ii. 175</a>. -Description of, <a href="#Pageii-176">176</a>. -People of, <a href="#Pageii-176">176</a>.</li> - -<li>Usukama, a province of Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-5">ii. 5</a>.</li> - -<li>Usumbwa, a province of Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-6">ii. 6</a>.</li> - -<li>Utakama, a province of Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-5">ii. 5</a>.</li> - -<li>Utambara, near Marungu, district of, <a href="#Pageii-151">ii. 151</a>.</li> - -<li>Ut’hongwe, country of, <a href="#Pageii-52">ii. 52</a>.</li> - -<li>Utumbara, a province of Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-6">ii. 6</a>, <a href="#Pageii-176">176</a>. -People of, <a href="#Pageii-176">176</a>.</li> - -<li>Uvinza, lodgings for caravans in, i. 354. -Geography of, <a href="#Pageii-1">ii. 1</a>, <a href="#Pageii-48">48</a>. -The two seasons of, <a href="#Pageii-8">8</a>.</li> - -<li>Uvira, southern frontier of, reached by the expedition, <a href="#Pageii-115">ii. 115</a>, <a href="#Pageii-116">116</a>. -Sultan of, <a href="#Pageii-116">116</a>. -Blackmail at, <a href="#Pageii-120">120</a>. -Commerce of, <a href="#Pageii-120">120</a>.</li> - -<li>Uyanzi, land of, description of the, i. 279.</li> - -<li>Uyonwa, principal village of Uvinza, <a href="#Pageii-78">ii. 78</a>. -Sultan Mariki of, <a href="#Pageii-78">78</a>. -Tents pitched at, <a href="#Pageii-161">161</a>.</li> - -<li>Uyuwwi, Kitambi, sultan of, i. 320.</li> - -<li>Uzaramo, the first district of, i. 54. -Fertility of, 60. -Wild animals of, 63. -Storm in, 60. -Boundaries of the territory of, 107. -Roads in, 335. -Art of narcotising fish in, <a href="#Pageii-67">ii. 67</a>. -Re-entered, <a href="#Pageii-275">275</a>.</li> - -<li>Uzige, land of, described, <a href="#Pageii-146">ii. 146</a>. -People of, <a href="#Pageii-146">146</a>. -Rivers of, <a href="#Pageii-146">146</a>.</li> - -<li>Uziraha, plain of, <a href="#Pageii-263">ii. 263</a>.</li> - -<li>Uzungu, or White Land, African curiosity respecting, i. 261.</li> - -<li class="newletter">Valentine, the Goanese servant, sketch of his character, i. 131. -Taken ill, i. 200, 379; <a href="#Pageii-169">ii. 169</a>. -Cured by the tinctura Warburgii, <a href="#Pageii-169">169</a>. -His reception by the Wagogo, <a href="#Pageii-263">263</a>. -Sent to learn cooking, <a href="#Pageii-384">384</a>. -Suffers from ophthalmia, <a href="#Pageii-406">406</a>. -Mortally wounds a Wayfanya, <a href="#Pageii-124">ii. 124</a>.</li> - -<li>Vegetables in East Africa, i. 201; <a href="#Pageii-283">ii. 283</a>.</li> - -<li id="IndRef8">Vegetation of—</li> -<li class="level1">Bomani, road to, i. 47.</li> -<li class="level1">Dut’humi, i. 87.</li> -<li class="level1">Eastern Africa generally, i. 228.</li> -<li class="level1">Karagwah, <a href="#Pageii-180">ii. 180</a>.</li> -<li class="level1"><span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-465">[465]</span></li> -<li class="level1">Katonga river, <a href="#Pageii-187">ii. 187</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">K’hutu, i. 91.</li> -<li class="level1">Kingani river, valley of the, i. 56, 69.</li> -<li class="level1">Kiranga-Ranga, i. 60.</li> -<li class="level1">Kirira, i. 395.</li> -<li class="level1">Kiruru, i. 83.</li> -<li class="level1">Kuingani, i. 43.</li> -<li class="level1">Makata tank, i. 181.</li> -<li class="level1">Mgeta river, i. 166.</li> -<li class="level1">Mgunda Mk’hali, i. 282.</li> -<li class="level1">Mrima, the, i. 101, 103, 104.</li> -<li class="level1">Msene, i. 397, <i>note</i>.</li> -<li class="level1">Muhogwe, i. 63.</li> -<li class="level1">Mukondokwa mountains, i. 195.</li> -<li class="level1">Murundusi, <a href="#Pageii-250">ii. 250</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Rufuta fiumara, i. 168.</li> -<li class="level1">—— plains, i. 180.</li> -<li class="level1">Tanganyika Lake shores, <a href="#Pageii-141">ii. 141</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">The road beyond Marenga Mk’hali, i. 205.</li> -<li class="level1">The road to Ugogo, i. 246.</li> -<li class="level1">Tumba Ihere, i. 62.</li> -<li class="level1">Ugogo, i. 275, 299, 300.</li> -<li class="level1">Ugoma, <a href="#Pageii-147">ii. 147</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-57">ii. 57</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Unguwwe river, <a href="#Pageii-40">ii. 40</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-6">ii. 6</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Usagara mountains, i. 162, 165, -220.</li> -<li class="level1">Uvinza in June, <a href="#Pageii-163">ii. 163</a>.</li> -<li class="level1">Yombo, i. 387.</li> -<li class="level1">Zungomero, i. 95.</li> - -<li>Veneration, African want of, <a href="#Pageii-336">ii. 336</a>.</li> - -<li>Village life in East Africa, described, <a href="#Pageii-278">ii. 278</a>.</li> - -<li>Villages of the Mrima, i. 102. -Of the Wak’hutu, 121. -A deserted village described, 185. -Villages of the Usagara mountains, 229. -Of the Wahehe, 240. -Of East Africa generally, 364, <i>et seq.</i> -In Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-7">ii. 7</a>. -Of Ukaranga, 52.</li> - -<li>Vinegar of East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-288">ii. 288</a>.</li> - -<li>Voandzeia subterranea, a kind of vetch, i. 196, 198.</li> - -<li class="newletter">Wabembe tribe, their cannibal practices, <a href="#Pageii-114">ii. 114</a>, -<a href="#Pageii-146">146</a>.</li> - -<li>Wabena tribes, i. 304. -Described by the Arab merchants, <a href="#Pageii-270">ii. 270</a>.</li> - -<li>Wabha tribe, their habitat, <a href="#Pageii-78">ii. 78</a>. -Their chief village, <a href="#Pageii-78">78</a>. -Their personal appearance and dress, <a href="#Pageii-78">78</a>. -Their arms, <a href="#Pageii-78">78</a>. -Their women, <a href="#Pageii-78">78</a>.</li> - -<li>Wabisa tribe, habitat of the, <a href="#Pageii-150">ii. 150</a>. -Their dress, <a href="#Pageii-150">150</a>. -Their manners and customs, <a href="#Pageii-150">150</a>.</li> - -<li>Wabwari, or people of Ubwari island, described, <a href="#Pageii-113">ii. 113</a>. -Women of the, <a href="#Pageii-113">113</a>.</li> - -<li>Wadoe tribe, their habitat, i. 123. -Their history, 123. -Their cannibalism, 123. -Their distinctive marks, 124. -Their -arms, 124. -Their customs, 124. -Subdivisions of the tribe, 124.</li> - -<li>Wafanya, halt at the village of, <a href="#Pageii-106">ii. 106</a>. -Visit from the chief of, <a href="#Pageii-107">107</a>. -Blackmail at, <a href="#Pageii-107">107</a>. -Climate of, <a href="#Pageii-107">107</a>. -Prices at, <a href="#Pageii-107">107</a>.</li> - -<li>Wafipa tribe, habitat of the, <a href="#Pageii-153">ii. 153</a>. -Their personal appearance, <a href="#Pageii-153">153</a>.</li> - -<li>Wafyoma race, described, <a href="#Pageii-176">ii. 176</a>.</li> - -<li>Waganda races, described, <a href="#Pageii-196">ii. 196</a>. -Their language, <a href="#Pageii-196">196</a>. -Their dress, <a href="#Pageii-196">196</a>.</li> - -<li>Waganga, or priests, of Urundi, their savage appearance, <a href="#Pageii-145">ii. 145</a>. -<i>See</i> <a href="#IndRef3">Mganga</a>.</li> - -<li>Wagara, or Wagala, tribe, i. 407.</li> - -<li>Wagogo, their astonishment at the white man, i. 263. -Habitat of the, 303, 304. -Extent of the country of the, 304. -Complexion of the, 304. -The ear-ornaments of the, 304. -Distinctive mark of the, 304. -Modes of wearing the hair, 304. -Women of the, 305. -Dress of the, 305. -Ornaments of the, 305. -Arms of the, 306. -Villages of the, 306. -Language of the, 306. -Their dislike of the Wanyamwezi, 307. -Their strength of numbers, 307. -Not much addicted to black magic, 307. -Their commerce, 308. -Their greediness, 308. -Their thievish propensities, 309. -Their idleness and debauchery, 309. -Their ill manners, 309. -Their rude hospitality, 310. -Authority of the Sultan of Ugogo, 310. -Food in, 310, 311.</li> - -<li>Wagoma tribe, their habitat, <a href="#Pageii-147">ii. 147</a>.</li> - -<li>Waguhha tribe, habitat of the, <a href="#Pageii-147">ii. 147</a>. -Lake in their country, <a href="#Pageii-147">147</a>. -Roads, <a href="#Pageii-147">147</a>.</li> - -<li>Wahayya tribe, the, <a href="#Pageii-187">ii. 187</a>.</li> - -<li>Wahehe tribe, their habitat, i. 239. -Their thievish propensities, 239. -Their distension of their ear-lobes, 239. -Distinctive marks of the tribe, 239. -Their dress, 239. -Their arms, 240. -Their villages, flocks, and herds, 240.</li> - -<li>Wahha tribe, their country laid waste, <a href="#Pageii-76">ii. 76</a>, <a href="#Pageii-78">78</a>. -Their present habitat, <a href="#Pageii-79">79</a>. -Wahha slaves, <a href="#Pageii-79">79</a>.</li> - -<li>Wahinda tribe, account of the, <a href="#Pageii-219">ii. 219</a>. -Their habitat, <a href="#Pageii-219">219</a>. -Their dress, <a href="#Pageii-220">220</a>. -Their manners and customs, <a href="#Pageii-220">220</a>.</li> - -<li>Wahuma class of Karagwah, described, <a href="#Pageii-181">ii. 181</a>, <a href="#Pageii-182">182</a>.</li> - -<li>Wahumba tribe, the bandit, i. 203. -Haunts of the, seen in the distance, 205.</li> - -<li>Wahumba, or Wamasai, tribe, <a href="#Pageii-215">ii. 215</a>. -Attack the villages of Inenge, i. 213. -Haunts of, 259. -Slavery among the, 309. -Dialect of the, 311. -Habitat of the, 311. -Seldom visited by travellers, 311. -Complexion of the, 311. -Dress, manners, and customs of the, 312. -Dwellings of the, 312. -Arms of the, 312.</li> - -<li>Wahumba Hills<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-466">[466]</span>, i. 295, 297.</li> - -<li>Wajiji tribe, the, described, <a href="#Pageii-62">ii. 62</a>. -Rudeness and violence of, <a href="#Pageii-62">62</a>, <a href="#Pageii-68">68</a>. -Diseases of, <a href="#Pageii-63">63</a>. -Practice of tattooing amongst, <a href="#Pageii-63">63</a>. -Ornaments and dress of, <a href="#Pageii-63">63</a>, <a href="#Pageii-64">64</a>. -Cosmetics of, <a href="#Pageii-63">63</a>. -Mode of taking snuff of, <a href="#Pageii-65">65</a>. -Fishermen of the lake of Tanganyika, <a href="#Pageii-66">66</a>. -Ceremoniousness of the Wajiji, <a href="#Pageii-69">69</a>. -Absence of family affection amongst them, <a href="#Pageii-69">69</a>. -Their habits of intoxication, <a href="#Pageii-69">69</a>. -Power and rights of their sultan, <a href="#Pageii-70">70</a>. -Their government, <a href="#Pageii-71">71</a>. -Their commerce, <a href="#Pageii-71">71</a>. -Prices in Ujiji, <a href="#Pageii-72">72</a>. -Currency in, <a href="#Pageii-73">73</a>. -Musical instruments of the Wajiji, <a href="#Pageii-98">98</a>. -Inquisitive wonder of the people, <a href="#Pageii-128">128</a>. -Category of stares, <a href="#Pageii-128">128</a>.</li> - -<li>Wakaguru tribe, villages of the, i. 168.</li> - -<li>Wakalaganza tribe, the, i. 406. -Dress of the, 406.</li> - -<li>Wakamba, the, a sub-tribe of the Wazaramo, i. 108.</li> - -<li>Wakarenga tribe, wretched villages of the, <a href="#Pageii-52">ii. 52</a>. -Their want of energy and civilisation, <a href="#Pageii-52">52</a>, <a href="#Pageii-74">74</a>, <a href="#Pageii-75">75</a>.</li> - -<li>Wakatete tribe, habitat of the, <a href="#Pageii-149">ii. 149</a>.</li> - -<li>Wakimbu race, account of the, <a href="#Pageii-19">ii. 19</a>. -Villages of the, <a href="#Pageii-19">19</a>. -Dress and characteristic marks of the, <a href="#Pageii-20">20</a>. -Arms of the, <a href="#Pageii-20">20</a>. -Ornaments of the, <a href="#Pageii-20">20</a>. -Language of the, <a href="#Pageii-20">20</a>.</li> - -<li>Wakumbaku tribe, country of the, i. 88.</li> - -<li>Wak’hutu race, the, described, i. 97. -The ivory touters of, 97. -Their territory, 119. -Their physical and mental qualities, 120. -Their dress, 120. -Their drunkenness, 120. -Their food, 120. -Their government, 121. -Their dwellings, 121.</li> - -<li>Wakwafi tribe, slavery among the, i. 309. -Their untameable character, 309.</li> - -<li>Wall point, i. 8.</li> - -<li>Wamasai tribe, slavery among the, i. 309.</li> - -<li>Wambele, Chomwi la Mtu Mku, or Headman Great Man of Precedence, i. 156.</li> - -<li>Wambozwa tribe, habitat of the, <a href="#Pageii-149">ii. 149</a>. -Their government, <a href="#Pageii-152">152</a>. -Their personal appearance, <a href="#Pageii-152">152</a>. -Their manners and customs, <a href="#Pageii-152">152</a>.</li> - -<li>Wamrima, or “people of the Mrima,” described, i. 16, 30, -32. -Their chomwi, or headmen, 16. -Their dress, 33. -Their women, 34. -Their mode of life, 35. -Their national characteristics, 36. -Their habits and customs, 37. -Their tombs, 57. -Wamrima caravans, description of, 344. -Hospitality of the people, 353.</li> - -<li>Wanguru porters, desertion of the, i. 52.</li> - -<li>Wanyambo, the poor class of Karagwah, described, <a href="#Pageii-182">ii. 182</a>.</li> - -<li>Wanyamwezi porters of the expedition, i. 143. -Account of the Wanyamwezi tribe, -<a href="#Pageii-20">ii. 20</a>. -Colour of the skin of the, <a href="#Pageii-20">20</a>. -Effluvium from their skins, <a href="#Pageii-20">20</a>. -Mode of dressing the hair, <a href="#Pageii-20">20</a>. -Elongation of the mammæ of the women, <a href="#Pageii-21">21</a>. -Mark of the tribe, <a href="#Pageii-21">21</a>. -Dress of the, <a href="#Pageii-21">21</a>. -Ornaments of the, <a href="#Pageii-22">22</a>. -Arms of the, <a href="#Pageii-22">22</a>. -Manners and customs of the, <a href="#Pageii-23">23</a>. -Ceremonies of childbirth, <a href="#Pageii-23">23</a>. -Of marriage, <a href="#Pageii-24">24</a>. -Funerals, <a href="#Pageii-25">25</a>. -Houses of the Wanyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-24">24</a>. -Iwanza, or public-house of the, <a href="#Pageii-27">27</a>. -Food of the people, <a href="#Pageii-28">28</a>. -Their commercial industry, <a href="#Pageii-29">29</a>. -Their language, <a href="#Pageii-30">30</a>. -Cultivation of the ground, <a href="#Pageii-30">30</a>, <a href="#Pageii-31">31</a>. -Slavery amongst them, <a href="#Pageii-31">31</a>, <a href="#Pageii-33">33</a>. -Government of the people, <a href="#Pageii-31">31</a>. -Notice of Sultan Fundikira, <a href="#Pageii-31">31</a>, <a href="#Pageii-32">32</a>. -Desertion of the porters, in Ugogo, <a href="#Pageii-277">277</a>. -Their fear of the Wagogo, <a href="#Pageii-307">307</a>. -Greeting of porters of the, on the road, <a href="#Pageii-291">291</a>.</li> - -<li>Wanyika, halt of the party at the settlement of, i. 407. -Blackmail at, 407.</li> - -<li>Wanyora race described, <a href="#Pageii-197">ii. 197</a>.</li> - -<li>Wap’hangara, the, a subtribe of the Wazaramo, i. 108.</li> - -<li>Wapoka, country of the, <a href="#Pageii-153">ii. 153</a>.</li> - -<li>Warburg’s tincture, an invaluable medicine, <a href="#Pageii-169">ii. 169</a>.</li> - -<li>Warori, their meeting with the caravan, <a href="#Pageii-251">ii. 251</a>. -The tribe described, <a href="#Pageii-272">272</a>. -Their raids, <a href="#Pageii-272">272</a>, <a href="#Pageii-273">273</a>. -Their personal appearance, <a href="#Pageii-273">273</a>. -Dress and weapons, <a href="#Pageii-273">273</a>. -Their food and habitations, <a href="#Pageii-273">273</a>.</li> - -<li>Warufiji, or people of the Rufiji river, i. 30.</li> - -<li>Warudi tribe, <a href="#Pageii-215">ii. 215</a>, <a href="#Pageii-219">219</a>.</li> - -<li>Warugaru tribe, country of the, i. 88. -Their language, 89.</li> - -<li>Warundi tribe, noise and insolence of the, <a href="#Pageii-107">ii. 107</a>. -Their inhospitality, <a href="#Pageii-108">108</a>, <a href="#Pageii-117">117</a>. -Their habitat, <a href="#Pageii-144">144</a>. -Their mode of government, <a href="#Pageii-145">145</a>. -Their complexion, <a href="#Pageii-145">145</a>. -Their personal appearance, <a href="#Pageii-145">145</a>. -Their dress, arms, and ornaments, <a href="#Pageii-145">145</a>. -Their women, <a href="#Pageii-146">146</a>.</li> - -<li>Wasagara tribe, thievish propensities of the, i. 229. -Villages of the, 168. -Those of Rumuma described, 198. -Their ornaments and arms, 199. -Village of, on the summit of Rubeho, 218. -Villages of, on the slopes, 221. -Their habitat, 234. -Colour of their skins, 234. -Modes of wearing the hair, 234. -Distension of the ear-lobe, 235. -Distinctive marks of the tribe, 235. -Dress of the, 235. -Arms of the, 237. -Government of the, 238. -Houses of the, 366.</li> - -<li>Wasawahili, or people of the Sawahil, described, i. 30. -National characteristics of the, 36. -Their habits and customs, 37. -Caravans of, 344.</li> - -<li>Wasenze tribe, their habitat, <a href="#Pageii-147">ii. 147</a>.</li> - -<li>Washaki tribe, the<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-467">[467]</span>, <a href="#Pageii-215">ii. 215</a>, -<a href="#Pageii-219">219</a>.</li> - -<li>Washenzi, or barbarians from the interior, i. 18. -Curiosity of, 394.</li> - -<li>Washenzi, “the conquered,” or Ahl Maraim, the, i. 30.</li> - -<li>Wasps, mason, of the houses in East Africa, i. 370.</li> - -<li>Wasui tribe, described, <a href="#Pageii-176">ii. 176</a>.</li> - -<li>Wasukuma tribe, their thievery, i. 319. -Punishment of some of them, 320, 321. -Their sultan, Msimbira, 319-321.</li> - -<li>Wasumbwa tribe, in Msene, i. 395.</li> - -<li>Wasuop’hángá tribe, country of the, i. 88.</li> - -<li>Watatura tribes, i. 304; <a href="#Pageii-215">ii. 215</a>, <a href="#Pageii-220">220</a>. -Their habitat, <a href="#Pageii-220">220</a>. -Recent history of them, <a href="#Pageii-220">220</a>, <a href="#Pageii-221">221</a>.</li> - -<li>Watches, a few second-hand, the best things for keeping time in East African travel, i. 190.</li> - -<li>Water-courses, or nullahs, of East Africa, i. 102. -In the Usagara mountains, 229, 230.</li> - -<li>Water, in the Mrima, i. 102. -In the Usagara mountains, 218. -Scarcity of, near Marenga Mk’hali, 203. -Impatience and selfishness of thirst of the Baloch guard, 205. -In the Usagara mountains, 230. -On the road to Ugogo, 247. -Permission required for drawing, 252. -Scarcity of, at Kanyenye, 265. -Inhospitality of the people there, respecting, 267. -Scarcity of, in Mgunda Mk’hali, 282. -At the Jiwe la Mkoa, 287. -At Kirurumo, 289. -At Jiweni, 289. -On the march of the caravan, 359. -In Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-7">ii. 7</a>. -Of the Tanganyika Lake, its sweetness, <a href="#Pageii-139">139</a>. -Want of, on the return journey, <a href="#Pageii-239">239</a>.</li> - -<li>Water-melons at Marenga Mk’hali, i. 201. -Cultivation of, 201.</li> - -<li>Wat’hembe tribe, the, <a href="#Pageii-154">ii. 154</a>.</li> - -<li>Wat’hembwe tribe, habitat of the, <a href="#Pageii-149">ii. 149</a>.</li> - -<li>Wat’hongwe tribe, country of the, <a href="#Pageii-154">ii. 154</a>.</li> - -<li>Wat’hongwe Kapana, Sultan, <a href="#Pageii-154">ii. 154</a>.</li> - -<li>Watosi tribe in Msene, i. 396. -Their present habitat, <a href="#Pageii-185">ii. 185</a>. -Account of them and their manners and customs, <a href="#Pageii-185">185</a>.</li> - -<li>Watuta tribe, hills of the, i. 408. -History of, <a href="#Pageii-75">ii. 75</a>. -Their present habitat, <a href="#Pageii-76">76</a>. -Their wanderings and forays, <a href="#Pageii-76">76</a>, <a href="#Pageii-77">77</a>. -Their women, <a href="#Pageii-77">77</a>. -Their arms, <a href="#Pageii-77">77</a>. -Their tactics, <a href="#Pageii-77">77</a>. -Their fear of fire-arms, <a href="#Pageii-77">77</a>. -Their hospitality and strange traits, <a href="#Pageii-77">77</a>. -Their attack on the territory of Kannena, <a href="#Pageii-156">ii. 156</a>.</li> - -<li>Wavinza tribe, i. 407. -Personal appearance and character of the, <a href="#Pageii-75">ii. 75</a>. -Arms of the, <a href="#Pageii-75">75</a>. -Inhospitality of the, <a href="#Pageii-75">75</a>. -Drunkenness of the, <a href="#Pageii-75">75</a>.</li> - -<li>Wavira tribe, civility of the, <a href="#Pageii-115">ii. 115</a>.</li> - -<li>Wayfanya, return to, <a href="#Pageii-123">ii. 123</a>. -A slave mortally wounded at, <a href="#Pageii-124">124</a>.</li> - -<li>Wazaramo tribe, the, i. 19.</li> - -<li>Wazaramo, or Wazalamo, territory of the, i. 54. -Visit from the P’hazi, or headmen, i. 54. -Women’s dance of ceremony, 55. -Tombs of the tribe, 57. -Stoppage of the guard of the expedition by the Wazaramo, 70. -Ethnology of the race, 107. -Their dialect, 107. -Subtribes of, 108. -Distinctive marks of the tribe, 108. -Albinos of the, 109. -Dress of the, 109. -Ornaments and arms of the, 110. -Houses of the, 110. -Character of the, 112. -Their government, 113. -The Sare, or brother oath, of the, 114. -Births and deaths, 118. -Funeral ceremonies, 118, 119. -“Industry” of the tribe, 119.</li> - -<li>Wazegura tribe, i. 124. -Their habitat, 125. -Their arms, 125. -Their kidnapping practices, 125. -Their government, 125. -Their character, 126.</li> - -<li>Wazige tribe described, <a href="#Pageii-146">ii. 146</a>.</li> - -<li>Waziraha, a subtribe of the Wak’hutu, i. 122. -Described, 123.</li> - -<li>Weights and measures in Zanzibar, <a href="#Pageii-389">ii. 389</a>, <a href="#Pageii-391">391</a>.</li> - -<li>Weapons in East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-300">ii. 300</a>.</li> - -<li>Weaving in East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-309">ii. 309</a>.</li> - -<li>White land, African curiosity respecting, i. 261.</li> - -<li>Whirlwinds in Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-11">ii. 11</a>, <a href="#Pageii-13">13</a>.</li> - -<li>Wife of Sultan Magomba, i. 266.</li> - -<li>Wigo hill, i. 93, 159.</li> - -<li>Wilyankuru, Eastern, passed through, i. 390.</li> - -<li>Winds in Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-9">ii. 9</a>, <a href="#Pageii-10">10</a>. -In Central Africa, <a href="#Pageii-50">50</a>. -Periodical of Lake Tanganyika, <a href="#Pageii-143">143</a>. -In Karagwah, <a href="#Pageii-180">ii. 180</a>.</li> - -<li>Windy Pass, or Pass of Rubeho, painful ascent of, i. 213. -Village of Wasagara at, 218.</li> - -<li>Wine, plantain, of Karagwah, <a href="#Pageii-180">ii. 180</a>. -And of Uganda, <a href="#Pageii-197">197</a>.</li> - -<li>Wire, mode of carrying, in the expedition, i. 145. -As an article of commerce, 146, 150.</li> - -<li>Witch, or mganga, of East Africa, i. 380.</li> - -<li>Witchcraft, belief in, in East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-347">ii. 347</a>. -Office of the mganga, <a href="#Pageii-356">356</a>.</li> - -<li>Women in East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-298">ii. 298</a>, <a href="#Pageii-330">330</a>, <a href="#Pageii-332">332</a>, -<a href="#Pageii-334">334</a>.</li> - -<li>—— of Karagwah, <a href="#Pageii-182">ii. 182</a>.</li> - -<li>—— of the Wabuha, <a href="#Pageii-78">ii. 78</a>.</li> - -<li>—— —— Wagogo, i. 304, 305, -310.</li> - -<li>—— —— Wahehe, i. 239.</li> - -<li>—— —— Wajiji, <a href="#Pageii-62">ii. 62-64</a>.</li> - -<li>—— —— Wak’hutu, i. 120.</li> - -<li>—— —— Wamrima, i. 16, 34.</li> - -<li>—— —— Wanyamwezi, i. 388, 396, -398; <a href="#Pageii-21">ii. 21</a>, <a href="#Pageii-23">23</a>, <a href="#Pageii-24">24</a>.</li> - -<li>—— —— Warundi, <a href="#Pageii-146">ii. 146</a>.</li> - -<li>—— —— Wasagara<span class="pagenum" id="Pageii-468">[468]</span>, -i. 234, 236.</li> - -<li>—— —— Wataturu, <a href="#Pageii-221">ii. 221</a>.</li> - -<li>—— —— Watuta, <a href="#Pageii-77">ii. 77</a>.</li> - -<li>—— —— Wazaramo, i. 55, 61, -63, 110, 116, 118.</li> - -<li>—— “Lulliloo” of the Wanyamwezi, i. 291.</li> - -<li>—— physicians in East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-323">ii. 323</a>.</li> - -<li>—— Dance by themselves in East Africa, i. 361.</li> - -<li>—— Handsome, at Yombo, i. 388.</li> - -<li>—— Slave-girls of the coast Arabs on the march up country, i. 314.</li> - -<li>—— The Iwanza, or public-houses of the women of Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-27">ii. 27</a>.</li> - -<li>—— Of the Wabwari islanders, <a href="#Pageii-113">ii. 113</a>.</li> - -<li>Wood-apples in Unyamwezi, i. 318.</li> - -<li>Woodward, Mr. S. P., his description of shells brought from Tanganyika Lake, <a href="#Pageii-102">ii. 102</a>, -<i>note</i>.</li> - -<li class="newletter">Xylophagus, the, in East African houses, i. 370.</li> - -<li class="newletter">Yegea mud, i. 83.</li> - -<li>Yombo, halt of the party at, i. 387. -Description of, 387. -The sunset hour at, 387. -Return to, <a href="#Pageii-166">ii. 166</a>.</li> - -<li>Yovu, river, <a href="#Pageii-257">ii. 257</a>, <a href="#Pageii-258">258</a>. -Forded, <a href="#Pageii-258">258</a>.</li> - -<li>Yovu, village of, described, i. 396.</li> - -<li class="newletter">Zanzibar, view of, from the sea, i. 1. -What the island is not, 2. -Family, 2, 3. -History -of the word “Zanzibar,” 28. -Its geographical position, 29. -Weakness of the government of, in the interior of the continent, 98. -The eight seasons of, <a href="#Pageii-8">ii. 8</a>. -Slave-trade of, <a href="#Pageii-377">377</a>. -Troubles in, <a href="#Pageii-380">380</a>. -General trade of, Appendix to vol. ii.</li> - -<li>Zawada, the lady, added to the caravan, i. 210. -Her services to Capt. Speke, <a href="#Pageii-277">ii. 277</a>.</li> - -<li>Zebras, in the Rufuta plains, i. 183. -At Ziwa, 251. -In Unyamwezi, <a href="#Pageii-15">ii. 15</a>.</li> - -<li>Zemzemiyah of East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-239">ii. 239</a>.</li> - -<li>Zeze, or guitar, of East Africa, <a href="#Pageii-291">ii. 291</a>.</li> - -<li>Zik el nafas, or asthma, remedy in East Africa for, i. 96.</li> - -<li>Zimbili, halt of the caravan at, i. 386. -Description of, 386.</li> - -<li>Ziwa, or the Pond, i. 244. -Water obtained from the, 250. -Description of the, 251. -Troubles of the expedition at, 254.</li> - -<li>Zohnwe river, i. 172.</li> - -<li>Zohnwe settlement, i. 173. -Adventures of the expedition at, 173.</li> - -<li>Zungomero, district of, described, i. 93. -Commerce of, 95. -Attractions of, 95. -Food of, 95-97. -Cause of the ivory touters of, 97. -Halt of the expedition at, i. 127. -Pestilence of, 127, 163. -Fresh porters engaged at, 128. -Life at, 156. -Return to, <a href="#Pageii-264">ii. 264</a>. -Departure from, <a href="#Pageii-276">276</a>.</li> - -</ul><!--index--> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p class="center highline8">THE END.</p> - -<p class="center highline2 fsize60">LONDON:<br /> -<span class="gesp2">PRINTED BY SPOTTISWOODE AND CO</span>.<br /> -NEW-STREET SQUARE.</p> - -<hr class="full" /> - -<div class="tnbot" id="TN"> - -<h2>Transcriber’s Notes</h2> - -<p>Spelling variants, inconsistent, archaic and unusual spelling, hyphenation, capitalisation, use of accents, etc., also -in proper and geographical names and in non-English words, have been retained, except as listed under Changes below. The -names of peoples, tribes, other groups and localities in particular occur in different varieties, either accidentally or -deliberately. 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