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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..dcefbfe --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #66386 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/66386) diff --git a/old/66386-0.txt b/old/66386-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index aa76a4b..0000000 --- a/old/66386-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8452 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook of Travels into Bokhara (Volume 3 of 3), by -Alexander Burnes - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this eBook. - -Title: Travels into Bokhara (Volume 3 of 3) - Being the Account of A Journey from India to Cabool, Tartary, - and Persia; Also, Narrative of a Voyage on the Indus, From the Sea - to Lahore, With Presents From the King of Great Britain; Performed - Under the Orders of the Supreme Government of India, in the Years - 1831, 1832, and 1833 - -Author: Alexander Burnes - -Release Date: September 26, 2021 [eBook #66386] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -Produced by: Henry Flower and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at - https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images - generously made available by The Internet Archive/Canadian - Libraries) - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS INTO BOKHARA (VOLUME 3 OF -3) *** - - - - -Transcriber's Note - -Italic text is indicated by _underscores_, bold text by =equals signs=, -sidenotes by ~swung dashes~ and superscript by caret signs, e.g. ALEX^R -BURNES. - - - - - TRAVELS - INTO - BOKHARA, - _&c. &c._ - - VOL. III. - - - - - LONDON: - Printed by A. SPOTTISWOODE, - New-Street-Square. - -[Illustration: - - Drawn by W. Purser. Engraved by E. Finden. - -_Hydrabad on the Indus_ - -_From a sketch taken on the spot by Capt. Grindlay, in 1808._ -] - - - - - TRAVELS - INTO - BOKHARA; - - BEING THE ACCOUNT OF - A JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO CABOOL, TARTARY, - AND PERSIA; - - ALSO, NARRATIVE OF - A VOYAGE ON THE INDUS, - FROM THE SEA TO LAHORE, - WITH PRESENTS FROM THE KING OF GREAT BRITAIN; - - PERFORMED UNDER THE ORDERS OF THE SUPREME GOVERNMENT - OF INDIA, IN THE YEARS 1831, 1832, AND 1833. - - BY - LIEUT. ALEX^R BURNES, F.R.S. - OF THE EAST INDIA COMPANY’S SERVICE; - AS^T POLITICAL RESIDENT IN CUTCH, AND LATE ON A MISSION TO - THE COURT OF LAHORE. - - - ----“Per syrtes iter æstuosas, - ... _per inhospitalem - Caucasum, vel quæ loca fabulosus - Lambit Hydaspes_.” HOR. - - - IN THREE VOLUMES. - - VOL. III. - - - LONDON: - JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. - MDCCCXXXIV. - - - - - THIS - THIRD VOLUME - OF - TRAVELS INTO BOKHARA, - - CONTAINING - AN ACCOUNT OF THE RIVER INDUS, - - IS INSCRIBED TO - THE MEMORY OF THE LATE - MAJOR-GENERAL SIR JOHN MALCOLM, G.C.B. - &c. &c. &c. - - IN GRATEFUL REMEMBRANCE, - BY - THE AUTHOR. - - - - - NARRATIVE - OF A - VOYAGE BY THE RIVER INDUS, - - FROM THE SEA TO - THE COURT OF LAHORE IN THE PUNJAB, - WITH PRESENTS FROM THE KING OF GREAT BRITAIN; - - COMPRISING - AN ACCOUNT OF THE PROCEEDINGS OF THE MISSION, - - AND A - =MEMOIR OF THE RIVER INDUS=, - - WITH CURSORY REMARKS ON THE REMAINS OF ANTIQUITY NEAR THAT - CLASSICAL AND CELEBRATED STREAM. - - - - -INTRODUCTION. - - -I was employed as an officer of the Quartermaster-general’s department, -for several years, in the province of Cutch. In the course of enquiries -into its geography and history, I visited the eastern mouth of the -Indus, to which the country adjoins, as well as that singular tract -called the “Run,” into which that river flows. The extension of our -knowledge in that quarter served only to excite further curiosity, -in which I was stimulated by Lieut-General Sir Thomas Bradford, then -Commander-in-Chief of the Bombay army. That officer directed his -views, in a most enlightened manner, to the acquisition of every -information regarding a frontier so important to Britain as that of -north-western India. Encouraged by such approbation, for which I -am deeply grateful, I volunteered my services, in the year 1829, -to traverse the deserts between India and the Indus, and finally, -endeavour to descend that river to the sea. Such a journey involved -matters of political moment; but the government of Bombay was then held -by an individual distinguished above all others, by zeal in the cause -of Asiatic geography and literature. Sir John Malcolm despatched me -at once, in prosecution of the design, and was pleased to remove me -to the political branch of the service, observing, that I should be -then invested “with influence with the rulers, through whose country -I travelled, that would tend greatly to allay that jealousy and -alarm, which might impede, if they did not arrest, the progress of my -enquiries.” - -In the year 1830, I entered the desert, accompanied by Lieut. James -Holland, of the Quartermaster-general’s department, an officer ably -qualified to assist me. After reaching Jaysulmeer, we were overtaken -by an express from the Supreme Government of India, desiring us to -return, since at that time “it was deemed inexpedient to incur the -hazard of exciting the alarm and jealousy of the rulers of Sinde, -and other foreign states, by the prosecution of the design.” This -disappointment, then most acutely felt, was dissipated in the following -year, by the arrival of presents from the King of Great Britain for the -ruler of Lahore, coupled, at the same time, with the desire that such -an opportunity for acquiring correct information of the Indus should -not be overlooked. The following work contains the narrative of that -mission, which I conducted by the Indus to Lahore. The information -which I collected, relative to Jaysulmeer and the countries on the N. -W. frontier of India, has just been published in the Transactions of -the Royal Geographical Society of London. - - London, June 7. 1834. - - - - -CONTENTS - -OF - -THE THIRD VOLUME. - - - Page - - INTRODUCTION ix - - - CHAPTER I. - - Arrival of presents from the King of England--Information on - the Indus desired--Suggestions for procuring it--Appointed to - conduct the Mission to Lahore--Departure from Cutch--Ability - of the Navigators--Arrival in the Indus--Phenomena--Scenes of - Alexander’s Campaigns--Ebb and flow of the Tides--Correctness - of Quintus Curtius--Visited by the Authorities--Forced out of - the Country--Correspondence--Return to the Indus--Imminent - Danger--Starved out of the Country--Third Voyage to the - Indus--Land in Sinde--Negotiations--Advance on Tatta--Sindian - Policy and Reasoning--Successful Negotiations 1 - - - CHAP. II. - - Tatta described--Hinglaj, a famous Pilgrimage--Return - to the Sea-coast--Notions of the People--Alexander’s - Journey--Embarkation on the River--Anecdote--Strictness of - Religious Observances--Pulla Fish--Arrival at Hydrabad--Welcome - of the Rulers--Presentation at Court--Sindian Meanness--Audience - of Leave--Scenery near the Capital 30 - - - CHAP. III. - - Departure from Hydrabad--Sehwun--Crew of the Boats--A - Sindian Song--Sehwun described--Reasons for supposing it - to be the Territory of the Sindomanni--Pilgrimage--High - Antiquity of the Castle of Sehwun--Congratulations from the - Ruler of Khyrpoor--Address that Personage--Character of the - People--The Indus--Visited by the Vizier of Sinde--Arrival at - Khyrpoor--Audience with the Chief--Character of the Sindian - Rulers--Arrival at Bukkur--Amusing Predictions--Anecdote of an - Afghan--Mihmandar--Alore described--Supposition of its being the - Kingdom of Musicanus 51 - - - CHAP. IV. - - Quit Bukkur--Curiosity of the People--Reach the Frontiers - of Sinde--Farewell Letters--Creditable Behaviour in our - Escort--Fish Diet--Costume--Enter Bhawul Khan’s Country--Quit - the Indus at Mittun--Effects of this River on the Climate--Enter - the Chenab or Acesines--Incident at Ooch--Arrival of Bhawul - Khan--Interview with him--Merchants of Bhawulpoor--History - of Ooch--Visited by Bhawul Khan--Mountains--Pass the - Sutlege--Peculiarity in the Water of two Rivers--Simplicity - of the Mihmandar--Enter Runjeet Sing’s Country--Honourable - Reception--Exhibition of the Dray-horses--Orders of the Court 81 - - - CHAP. V. - - Voyage in the Country of the Seiks--Shoojuabad--Mooltan; - its Antiquity--Probably the Capital of - the Malli--Public Buildings--Religious - Intolerance--Climate--Phenomena--Date-trees; Traditions of their - introduction--Quit Mooltan--Peloo Shrub--Arrangements for - our Advance to Lahore--Alexander the Great--Enter the Ravee, - or Hydräotes--Tolumba--Visit the Hydaspes--Description of its - confluence with the Chenab--Probable identity of a Modern Tribe - with the Cathæi--Ruins of Shorkote--Valuable Bactrian Coin found - at it--Birds and Reptiles--Heat--Ruins of Harappa--A Tiger - Hunt--Seik Courage--Intelligence of the Mihmandar--Letter and - Deputation from Lahore--Seik Females 108 - - - CHAP. VI. - - Enter Lahore--Presentation to Runjeet Sing--Delivery of the - Presents--Copy of a Letter from the King of England--Stud--Hall - of Audience--Military Spectacle--Conversations of Runjeet - Sing--Amazons--French Officers--City of Lahore--Tomb - of Juhangeer--Shalimar of Shah Jehan--Horse Artillery - Review--Character of Runjeet Sing--Audience of Leave--Superb - Jewels--Dresses of Honour--Runjeet Sing’s Letter to the - King--Quit Lahore--Umritsir; its Temples--Reach the - Beas, or Hyphasis--Fête of a Seik Chieftain--Reach the - Sutlege--Antiquities of the Punjab--Arrival at Lodiana--Exiled - Kings of Cabool--Visit them--Journey to the Himalaya - Mountains--Interview with the Governor-general--Acknowledgments - of his Lordship 148 - - - MEMOIR ON THE INDUS AND ITS TRIBUTARY RIVERS IN THE PUNJAB. - - Notice regarding the Map of the Indus 193 - - - CHAPTER I. - - A general view of the Indus 199 - - - CHAP. II. - - A comparison of the Indus and Ganges--Propriety of the - comparison--Size of the Ganges--Of the Indus--Compared--Slope of - the Indus--Conclusions from it--Tides in both Rivers 203 - - - CHAP. III. - - ON SINDE. - - Extent of the Country--Chiefs and Revenue--Power and - Conquests--Military Strength--Connection with Persia--External - Policy--Internal State--Hydrabad Family--Khyrpoor - Family--Meerpoor Family--Condition of the People--Population 212 - - - CHAP. IV. - - ON THE MOUTHS OF THE INDUS. - - Division of the Indus into two great branches below - Tatta--Sata--Buggar--Delta; its extent--Dangers in navigating - it--Eleven Mouths of the Indus--The Pittee--Pieteeanee, Jooa, - Reechel, Hujamree--Khedywaree, Gora, or Wanyanee--Khaeer, - Mull, Seer--Koree, or Eastern Mouth--Advantage of these - to Sinde--Coast of Sinde--Tides of the Indus--Curachee - Seaport--Boats of the Indus; Dingees and Doondees--Indus adapted - for Steam-vessels--Military remarks on the River 228 - - - CHAP. V. - - ON THE DELTA OF THE INDUS. - - Inundation of the Delta--Extent--Neglected - State--Towns--Population--Jokea - Tribe--Fisheries--Animals--Productions--Climate 249 - - - CHAP. VI. - - THE INDUS FROM TATTA TO HYDRABAD. - - Sand-banks--Course of the River--Towns--Country - Supplies--Trade--Means of improving it--Boats; their Deficiency - 255 - - - CHAP. VII. - - THE INDUS FROM HYDRABAD TO SEHWUN. - - Course and Depth--Fulailee River--Current--Importance of - this Part of the River--Crossing the Indus--Navigation of - it--Towns--Sehwun--Mountains of Lukkee 260 - - - CHAP. VIII. - - THE INDUS FROM SEHWUN TO BUKKUR. - - Position of Bukkur--Fertility of the Country--Current--Eastern - Bank of the Indus--Western Bank--Fortress of Bukkur--Roree and - Sukkur--Alore; its Antiquity--Khyrpoor and Larkhanu--Productions - of the Soil 267 - - - CHAP. IX. - - THE INDUS FROM BUKKUR, TILL JOINED BY THE PUNJAB RIVERS. - - Breadth and Depth--Boats--Country--Shikarpoor and Subzul--Swell - of the Indus--Tribes on the River 275 - - - CHAP. X. - - THE INDUS FROM MITTUN TO ATTOK. - - Description of the River--Dera Ghazee Khan--Line of - Commerce--Military Expeditions; why they avoided the - Indus--Bridging the Indus 281 - - - CHAP. XI. - - THE CHENAB, OR ACESINES, JOINED BY THE SUTLEGE, OR HESUDRUS. - - Chenab--Junction--Banks of the Chenab--Ooch; its Productions 286 - - - CHAP. XII. - - ON BHAWUL KHAN’S COUNTRY. - - Limits--Nature of the Country--Its Power and - Importance--Daoodpootras; their Descent--The reigning - Family--Trade of Bhawulpoor 290 - - - CHAP. XIII. - - THE PUNJAB. - - Extent of Runjeet Sing’s Country--Changes in the Seik - Government--Probable Consequences of the Ruler’s Death--His - Policy--Sirdars--Revenues of the Punjab--Military Resources and - Strength--Cities 295 - - - CHAP. XIV. - - THE CHENAB, OR ACESINES, JOINED BY THE RAVEE, OR HYDRAÖTES. - - Chenab Described--Boats on it--Crossing the River--Province of - Mooltan 300 - - - CHAP. XV. - - THE RAVEE, OR HYDRAÖTES, BELOW LAHORE. - - The Ravee--Its tortuous Course and difficult - Navigation--Towns--Lahore--Umritsir Toolumba 305 - - - CHAP. XVI. - - A MEMOIR ON THE EASTERN BRANCH OF THE INDUS, AND THE RUN OF - CUTCH. - - Cutch; its Position--Alterations in its Western Coast, from an - Earthquake--Damming of the Eastern Branch of the Indus--Injuries - thereby--Dreadful Earthquake of 1819--Effects of it--Raises a - natural Mound--Overflow of the Indus in 1826--its Effects on the - Eastern Branch described--Opinions--Subsequent Alterations of - the Indus--Run of Cutch described--Mirage--Traditions regarding - the Run--Corroboration of them--Effects of the Earthquake on the - Run--Flooding of the Run--Configuration of the Run Borders--Run, - supposed to have been an Inland Sea--Note in corroboration of - the Opinion--Note on Sindree 309 - - - - -NARRATIVE. - - - - -CHAPTER I. - - -~Arrival of presents from the King of England for Runjeet Sing at -Lahore.~ - -In the year 1830, a ship arrived at Bombay, with a present of five -horses from the King of Great Britain to Maharaja Runjeet Sing, the -Seik Chieftain at Lahore, accompanied by a letter of friendship from -his majesty’s minister[1] to that prince. At the recommendation of -Major-General Sir John Malcolm, then governor of Bombay, I had the -honour of being nominated by the Supreme Government of India to proceed -on a mission to the Seik capital, with these presents, by way of the -river Indus. I held at that time a political situation in Cutch, the -only portion of the British dominions in India which borders on the -Indus. - -~Information on the Indus desiderated.~ - -The authorities, both in England and India, contemplated that much -information of a political and geographical nature might be acquired -in such a journey. The knowledge which we possessed of the Indus was -vague and unsatisfactory, and the only accounts of a great portion of -its course were drawn from Arrian, Curtius, and the other historians of -Alexander’s expedition. Sir John Malcolm thus minuted in the records of -government, in August, 1830:-- - -“The navigation of the Indus is important in every point of view; yet -we have no information that can be depended upon on this subject, -except of about seventy miles from Tatta to Hyderabad. Of the present -state of the Delta we have native accounts, and the only facts which -can be deduced are, that the different streams of the river below -Tatta, often change their channels, and that the sands of all are -constantly shifting; but, notwithstanding these difficulties, boats of -a small draft of water can always go up the principal of them. With -regard to the Indus above Hyderabad, there can be no doubt of its -being, as it has been for more than two thousand years, navigable far -up.” - -~Arrangements.~ - -In addition therefore to the complimentary mission on which I was to be -employed, I had my attention most specially directed to the acquisition -of full and complete information regarding the Indus. This was a matter -of no easy accomplishment, as the Ameers, or rulers of Sinde, had ever -evinced the utmost jealousy of Europeans, and none of the missions -which visited the country had been permitted to proceed beyond their -capital of Hyderabad. The river Indus, likewise, in its course to -the ocean, traverses the territories of many lawless and barbarous -tribes, from whom both opposition and insult might be dreaded. On -these matters much valuable advice was derived from Lieutenant-Colonel -Henry Pottinger, political resident in Cutch, and well known to the -world for his adventurous travels in Beloochistan. He suggested that -it might allay the fears of the Sinde government, if a large carriage -were sent with the horses, since the size and bulk of it would render -it obvious that the mission could then only proceed by water. This -judicious proposal was immediately adopted by government; nor was it in -this case alone that the experience of Colonel Pottinger availed me, as -it will be seen that he evinced the most unwearied zeal throughout the -difficulties which presented themselves, and contributed, in a great -degree, to the ultimate success of the undertaking. - -~The escort.~ - -That a better colour might also be given to my deputation by a route -so unfrequented, I was made the bearer of presents to the Ameers of -Sinde, and at the same time charged with communications of a political -nature to them. These referred to some excesses committed by their -subjects on the British frontier; but I was informed that neither -that, nor any other negotiation, was to detain me in my way to Lahore. -The authorities in England had desired that a suitable escort might -accompany the party; but though the design was not free from some -degree of danger, it was evident that no party of any moderate detail -could afford the necessary protection. I preferred, therefore, the -absence of any of our troops, and resolved to trust to the people of -the country; believing that, through their means, I might form a link -of communication with the inhabitants. Sir John Malcolm observed, in -his letter to the Governor General, that “the guard will be people -of the country he visits, and those familiar with it. Lieut. Burnes -prefers such, on the justest grounds, to any others; finding they -facilitate his progress, while they disarm that jealousy which the -appearance of any of our troops excites.” Nor were my sentiments -erroneous; since a guard of wild Beloochees protected us in Sinde, and -allayed suspicion. - -~Appointed to conduct the mission to Lahore.~ - -When these preliminary arrangements had been completed, I received -my final instructions in a secret letter from the chief secretary -at Bombay. I was informed that “the depth of water in the Indus, -the direction and breadth of the stream, its facilities for steam -navigation, the supply of fuel on its banks, and the condition of the -princes and people who possess the country bordering on it, are all -points of the highest interest to government; but your own knowledge -and reflection will suggest to you various other particulars, in -which full information is highly desirable; and the slow progress of -the boats up the Indus will, it is hoped, give you every opportunity -to pursue your researches.” I was supplied with all the requisite -surveying instruments, and desired to draw bills on honour for my -expenses. In a spirit also purely characteristic of the distinguished -individual who then held the government, I received the thanks of Sir -John Malcolm for my previous services; had my attention drawn to the -confidence now reposed in me; and was informed that my knowledge of -the neighbouring countries and the character of their inhabitants, -with the local impressions by which I was certain to be aided, gave -me advantages which no other individual enjoyed, and had led to my -selection; nor could I but be stimulated by the manner in which Sir -John Malcolm addressed the Governor General of India:--“I shall be -very confident of any plan Lieut. Burnes undertakes in this quarter -of India; provided a latitude is given him to act as circumstances -may dictate, I dare pledge myself that the public interests will be -promoted. Having had my attention much directed, and not without -success, during more than thirty years, to the exploring and surveying -countries in Asia, I have gained some experience, not only in the -qualities and habits of the individuals by whom such enterprises can -be undertaken, but of the pretexts and appearances necessary to give -them success.” A young active and intelligent officer, Ensign J. D. -Leckie, of the 22d Regiment N.I., was also nominated to accompany me; a -surveyor, a native doctor, and suitable establishments of servants were -likewise entertained. - -~Departure from Cutch.~ - -We sailed from Mandivee in Cutch with a fleet of five native boats, on -the morning of the 21st of January, 1831. On the day succeeding our -departure, we had cleared the Gulf of Cutch. The danger in navigating -it has been exaggerated. The eddies and dirty appearance of the sea, -which boils up and bubbles like an effervescing draught, present a -frightful aspect to a stranger, but the natives traverse it at all -seasons. It is tolerably free from rocks, and the Cutch shore is sandy -with little surf, and presents inducements for vessels in distress to -run in upon the land. We passed a boat of fifty tons, which had escaped -shipwreck, with a very valuable cargo from Mozambique, the preceding -year, by this expedient. - -~Ability of the Cutch navigators.~ - -Among the timid navigators of the East, the mariner of Cutch is truly -adventurous; he voyages to Arabia, the Red Sea, and the coast of -Zanguebar in Africa, bravely stretching out on the ocean after quitting -his native shore. The “moallim” or pilot determines his position by -an altitude at noon or by the stars at night, with a rude quadrant. -Coarse charts depict to him the bearings of his destination, and, by -long-tried seamanship, he weathers, in an undecked boat with a huge -lateen sail, the dangers and tornadoes of the Indian Ocean. This use -of the quadrant was taught by a native of Cutch, who made a voyage to -Holland in the middle of last century, and returned, “in a green old -age,” to enlighten his country with the arts and sciences of Europe. -The most substantial advantages introduced by this improver of his -country were the arts of navigating and naval architecture, in which -the inhabitants of Cutch excel. For a trifling reward, a Cutch mariner -will put to sea in the rainy season, and the adventurous feeling is -encouraged by the Hindoo merchants of Mandivee, an enterprising and -speculating body of men. - -~Arrival in the Indus.~ - -On the evening of the 24th we had cleared the Gulf of Cutch, and -anchored in the mouth of the Koree, the eastern, though forsaken, -branch of the Indus, which separates Sinde from Cutch. The Koree leads -to Lueput, and is the largest of all the mouths of the river, having -become a branch of the sea as the fresh water has been turned from its -channel. There are many spots on its banks hallowed in the estimation -of the people. Cotasir and Narainseer are places of pilgrimage to -the Hindoo, and stand upon it and the western promontory of Cutch. -Opposite them lies the cupola of Rao Kanoje, beneath which there rests -a saint, revered by the Mahommedans. To defraud this personage of -frankincense, grain, oil, and money, in navigating the Koree, would -entail, it is superstitiously believed, certain shipwreck. In the -reverence we recognise the dangers and fear of the mariner. There is a -great contrast between the shores of Sinde and Cutch; the one is flat -and depressed, nearly to a level with the sea, while the hills of Cutch -rise in wild and volcanic cones, which meet the eye long after the -coast has faded from the view. We gladly exchanged this grandeur for -the dull monotony of the shores of Sinde, unvaried, as it is, by any -other signs of vegetation than stunted shrubs, whose domain is invaded -by each succeeding tide. - -[Illustration: NATIVES OF CUTCH. - -Lith.^d. for Burnes’ Travels into Bokhara,__by Day & Haghe Lith.^{rs} -to the King. - -John Murray Albemarle S^t. 1834. - -_On Stone by L. Haghe._ - -_Captn. R. M. Grindlay delt._] - -~Coast of Sinde.~ - -We followed the Sinde coast for four or five days, passing all -the mouths of the Indus, eleven in number, the principal of which -we entered and examined, without even the observation of the -inhabitants. There was little indication of our being near the estuary -of so great a river, for the water was only fresh a mile off shore from -the Gora, or largest mouth of the Indus; and the junction of the river -water with that of the sea was formed without violence, and might be -now and then discovered by a small streak of foam and a gentle ripple. -The number and subdivision of the branches diminish, no doubt, the -velocity as well as the volume of the Indus; but it would be supposed -that so vast a river would exercise an influence in the sea far from -its embouchure; and, I believe, this is really the case in the months -of July and August, during the inundation. The waters of the Indus are -so loaded with mud and clay, as to discolour the sea for about three -miles from the land. Opposite its different mouths numberless brown -specks are to be seen, called “pit” by the natives. I found them, on -examination, to be round globules, filled with water, and easily burst. -When placed on a plate, they were about the size of a shilling, and -covered by a brown skin. These specks are considered by the pilots to -denote the presence of fresh water among the salt; for they believe -them to be detached from the sand banks, by the meeting of the sea and -the river. They give a particularly dirty and oily appearance to the -water. - -~Anchor on the Indus.~ - -At night-fall on the 28th, we cast anchor in the western mouth of the -Indus, called the Pittee. The coast of Sinde is not distinguishable -a league from the shore. There is not a tree to be seen, though the -mirage sometimes magnifies the stunted shrubs of the Delta, and gives -them a tall and verdant appearance; a delusion that vanishes with a -nearer approach. From our anchorage, a white fortified tomb, in the Bay -of Curachee, was visible north-west of us; and beyond it lay a rocky -range of black mountains, called Hala, the Irus of Nearchus. I here -read from Arrian and Quintus Curtius the passages of this memorable -scene in Alexander’s expedition, the mouth from which his admiral, -Nearchus, took his departure from Sinde. The river did not exceed 500 -yards in width, instead of the 200 stadia (furlongs) of Arrian, and -the twelve miles, which more modern accounts had assigned to it, on -the authority of the natives. But there was still some resemblance -to the Greek author; for the hills over Curachee form with the -intervening country a semicircular bay, in which an island and some -sand-banks might lead a stranger to believe, that the ocean was yet -distant. “Alexander sent two long galleys before the fleet, towards -the ocean, to view a certain island, which they called Cillutas, where -his pilots told him he might go on shore before he entered the main -ocean; and when they assured him that it was a large island, and had -commodious harbours, besides plenty of fresh water, he commanded the -rest of the fleet to put in there, while he himself passed out to sea.” -The island, as it now exists, is scantily covered with herbage, and -destitute of fresh water. In vain I sought an identity of name in the -Indian dialect, for it was nameless; but it presented a safe place -of anchorage; and, as I looked upon it, I could not but think it was -that Cillutas where the hero of Macedon, “drawing up his fleet under -a promontory, sacrificed to the gods, as he had received orders from -Ammon.” Here it was, too, that Nearchus caused “a canal to be dug, of -about five stadia in length, where the earth was easiest to remove; as -soon as the tide began to rise they got their whole fleet safe through -that passage into the ocean.” The Greek admiral only availed himself of -the experience of the people; for it is yet customary among the natives -of Sinde to dig shallow canals, and leave the tides or river to deepen -them; and a distance of five stadia, or half a mile, would call for no -great labour. It is not to be supposed that sand-banks will continue -unaltered for centuries; but I may observe, that there was a large bank -contiguous to the island, between it and which a passage like that -of Nearchus might have been dug with the greatest advantage. “Having -sailed from the mouth of the Indus, Nearchus came to a sandy island, -called Crocola, and proceeded on his voyage, having the mountain Irus -on his right hand.” The topography is here more accurate: two sandy -islands, called Andry, lie off Curachee, at a distance of eighteen -miles from the Indus; and it is worthy of remark, that that portion of -the Delta through which the Pittee runs, is yet denominated “Crocola” -by the natives. - -~Ebb and flow of the tides.~ - -But the ebb and flow of the tides were an object of the greatest -surprise to Alexander’s fleet, and we could soon discover the cause -of their astonishment, for two of our boats stranded at a spot where, -half an hour previously, there had been abundance of water. The tides -inundate the country with great impetuosity, and recede as rapidly, -so that if a vessel be not in the channel, she will be left on shore. -Arrian observes, that “while they continued in that station, an -accident happened which astonished them; namely, the ebbing and flowing -of the waters, like as in the great ocean, inasmuch that the ships were -left upon dry ground, which Alexander and his friends never having -perceived before, were so much the more surprised. But what increased -their astonishment was, that the tide returning a short while after -began to heave the ships, so that * * * some of them were swept away by -the fury of the tide, and dashed to pieces, and others driven against -the bank, and destroyed.”[2] - -~Quintus Curtius’s description of Alexander’s disasters.~ - -A graphic and animated description of these disasters of the Greeks has -been likewise given by Quintus Curtius, and is nowhere more remarkable -than in the allusion to the “knolls” rising above the river like -“little islands,” for at full tide the mangrove shrubs present exactly -that appearance; but let the author speak in his own words:-- - -“About the third hour, the ocean, according to a regular alternation, -began to flow in furiously, driving back the river. The river, at -first, resisted; then impressed with a new force, rushed upwards with -more impetuosity than torrents descend a precipitous channel. The mass -on board, unacquainted with the nature of the tide, saw only prodigies -and symbols of the wrath of the gods. Ever and anon the sea swelled; -and on plains, recently dry, descended a diffused flood. The vessels -lifted from their stations, and the whole fleet dispersed; those who -had debarked, in terror and astonishment at the calamity, ran from -all quarters towards the ships. But tumultuous hurry is slow. * * * -Vessels dash together, and oars are by turns snatched away, to impel -other galleys. A spectator would not imagine a fleet carrying the same -army; but hostile navies commencing a battle. * * * * Now the tide had -inundated all the fields skirting the river, only _tops of knolls_ -rising above it like little islands; to these, from the evacuated -ships, the majority swam in consternation. The dispersed fleet was -partly riding in deep water, where the land was depressed into dells; -and partly resting on shoals, where the tide had covered elevated -ground; suddenly breaks on the Macedonians a new alarm more vivid than -the former. The sea began to ebb; the deluge, with a violent drain, to -retreat into the frith, disclosing tracts just before deeply buried. -Unbayed, the ships pitched some upon their prows, others upon their -sides. The fields were strewed with baggage, arms, loose planks, and -fragments of oars. The soldiers scarcely believed what they suffered -and witnessed. Shipwrecks on dry land, the sea in a river. Nor yet -ended their unhappiness; for ignorant that the speedy return of the -tide would set their ships afloat, they predicted to themselves famine -and death. Terrifying monsters, too, left by the waves, were gliding -about at random.” Our little fleet did not encounter such calamity and -alarm as that of Nearchus; for, in Q. Curtius’s words,--“by a gradual -diffusion, the inundation began to raise the ships, presently flooding -all the fields, set the fleet in motion.” - -~Reflections.~ - -I shall not now dwell on these subjects, though eminently interesting; -but, in the course of my narrative, I shall endeavour to identify the -modern Indus with the features of remoter times. If successful in -the enquiry, we shall add to our amusement, and the interest of the -chronicles themselves. It is difficult to describe the enthusiasm one -feels on first beholding the scenes which have exercised the genius -of Alexander. That hero has reaped the immortality which he so much -desired, and transmitted the history of his conquests, allied with his -name, to posterity. A town or a river, which lies on his route, has -acquired a celebrity that time serves only to increase; and, while we -gaze on the Indus, we connect ourselves, at least in association, with -the ages of distant glory. Nor can I pass over such feelings without -observing, that they are productive of the most solid advantages to -history and science. The Scamander has an immortality which the vast -Mississippi itself can never eclipse, and the descent of the Indus by -Alexander of Macedon is, perhaps, the most authentic and best attested -event of profane history. - -~Visited by the Sinde authorities.~ - -The jealousy of the Sinde government had been often experienced, and -it was therefore suggested that we should sail for the Indus, without -giving any previous information. Immediately on anchoring, I despatched -a communication to the agent of the Ameers at Darajee, signifying -my plans; and, in the meanwhile, ascended the river with caution, -anchoring in the fresh water on the second evening, thirty-five miles -from the sea. Near the mouth of the river we passed a rock stretching -across the stream, which is particularly mentioned by Nearchus, who -calls it a “dangerous rock,” and is the more remarkable, since there -is not even a stone below Tatta in any other part of the Indus. We -passed many villages, and had much to enliven and excite our attention, -had we not purposely avoided all intercourse with the people till -made acquainted with the fate of our intimation to the authorities -at Darajee. A day passed in anxious suspense; but, on the following -morning, a body of armed men crowded round our boats, and the whole -neighbourhood was in a state of the greatest excitement. The party -stated themselves to be the soldiers of the Ameer, sent to number -our party, and see the contents of all the boats, as well as every -box that they contained. I gave a ready and immediate assent; and we -were instantly boarded by about fifty armed men, who wrenched open -every thing, and prosecuted the most rigorous search for cannon and -gunpowder. Mr. Leckie and myself stood by in amazement, till it was at -length demanded that the box containing the large carriage should be -opened; for they pretended to view it as the Greeks had looked on the -wooden horse, and believed that it would carry destruction into Sinde. -A sight of it disappointed their hopes; and we must be conjurors, it -was asserted, to have come without arms and ammunition. - -~Retire to the mouth of the Indus.~ - -~Quit the country.~ - -When the search had been completed, I entered into conversation with -the head man of the party, and had hoped to establish, by his means, a -friendly connection with the authorities; but after a short pause, this -personage, who was a Reis of Lower Sinde, intimated, that a report of -the day’s transactions would be forthwith transmitted to Hydrabad; and -that, in the meanwhile, it was incumbent on us to await the decision of -the Ameer, at the mouth of the river. The request appeared reasonable; -and the more so, since the party agreed to furnish us with every supply -while so situated. We therefore weighed anchor, and dropped down the -river; but here our civilities ended. By the way we were met by several -“dingies” full of armed men, and at night were hailed by one of them, -to know how many troops we had on board. We replied, that we had not -even a musket. “The evil is done,” rejoined a rude Belooche soldier, -“you have seen our country; but we have four thousand men ready for -action!” To this vain-glorious observation succeeded torrents of abuse; -and when we reached the mouth of the river, the party fired their -matchlocks over us; but I dropped anchor, and resolved, if possible, -to repel these insults by personal remonstrance. It was useless; we -were surrounded by ignorant barbarians, who shouted out in reply to -all I said, that they had been ordered to turn us out of the country. -I protested against their conduct in the most forcible language; -reminded them that I was the representative, however humble, of a -great Government, charged with presents from Royalty; and added, that, -without a written document from their master, I should decline quitting -Sinde. An hour’s delay served to convince me that personal violence -would ensue, if I persisted in such a resolution; and as it was not -my object to risk the success of the enterprise by such collision, I -sailed for the most eastern mouth of the Indus, from which I addressed -the authorities in Sinde, as well as Colonel Pottinger, the Resident -in Cutch. - -~Communications with the Ameer.~ - -I was willing to believe that the soldiers had exceeded the authority -which had been granted them; and was speedily put in possession of -a letter from the Ameer, couched in friendly terms, but narrating, -at great length, the difficulty and impossibility of navigating the -Indus. “The boats are so small,” said his Highness, “that only four or -five men can embark in one of them; their progress is likewise slow; -they have neither masts not sails; and the depth of water in the Indus -is likewise so variable as not to reach, in some places, the knee or -waist of a man.” But this formidable enumeration of physical obstacles -was coupled with no refusal from the Ruler himself; and it seemed -expedient, therefore, to make a second attempt, after replying to his -Highness’s letter. - -~Return to Sinde.~ - -On the 10th of February we again set sail for Sinde; but at midnight, -on the 14th, were overtaken by a fearful tempest, which scattered our -little fleet. Two of the vessels were dismasted; we lost our small -boat, split our sails, sprung a leak; and, after being buffeted about -for some days by the fury of the winds and waves, succeeded in getting -an observation of the sun, which enabled us to steer our course, and -finally conducted us in safety to Sinde. One of the other four boats -alone followed us. We now anchored in the Pieteanee mouth of the Indus, -and I forthwith despatched the following document, by a trustworthy -messenger, to the agents at Darajee. - -~Fruitless negotiations.~ - -1. “Let it be known to the Government agent at Darajee, that this is -the memorandum of Mr. Burnes (sealed with his seal, and written in the -Persian language in his own handwriting), the representative (vakeel) -of the English to the Ameer of Sinde, and likewise the bearer of -presents to Maharaja Runjeet Sing from the King of England. - -2. “I came to the Indus a few days ago; and you searched my baggage, -that you might report the contents thereof to your master. I have now -returned, and await an answer. - -3. “You may send any number of armed men that you please; my life is in -your power; but remember that the Ameer will hold every one responsible -who molests me. Remember, too, that I am a British officer, and have -come without a musket or a soldier (as you well know); placing implicit -reliance on the protection of the ruler of Sinde, to whose care my -Government have committed me. - -4. “I send this memorandum by two of my own servants, and look to you -for their being protected.” - -This remonstrance drew no reply from the agent at Darajee; for the -individual who had held the situation on our first visit to Sinde, had -been dismissed for permitting us to ascend the river; and our servants -brought us notice that we should not be permitted to land, nor to -receive either food or water. We observed, therefore, the greatest -possible economy in the distribution of our provisions, and placed -padlocks on the tanks, in the hope of reason yet guiding the councils -of the Ameer. When our supply of water failed, I despatched a small -boat up the river to procure some; but it was seized, and the party -detained; which now rendered us hopeless of success, and only anxious -to quit the inhospitable shores of Sinde. - -~Imminent danger on the Indus. Quit Sinde.~ - -On the 22d of February we weighed our anchor, at daylight; and when in -the narrow mouth of the river, the wind suddenly changed. The tide, -which ran with terrific violence, cast us on the breakers of the bar; -the sea rolled over us, and we struck the ground at each succeeding -wave. In despair, the anchor was dropped; and when we thought only of -saving our lives, we found our vessel had rubbed over the breakers of -the bank, and floated. I admired the zeal and bravery of our crew; and -was much struck with their pious ejaculations to the tutelar saint -of Cutch, Shah Peer, when they found themselves beyond the reach of -danger. “Oh! holy and generous saint,” shouted the whole crew, “you are -truly good.” Frankincense was forthwith burned to his honour; and a sum -of money was collected, and hallowed by its fragrance, as the property -of the saint. The amount subscribed testified the sincerity of the poor -men’s gratitude; and if I believed not the efficacy of the offering, -I refused not, on that account, to join, by their request, in the -manifestations of their duty and gratitude. Our other vessel, not so -fortunate as ourselves, was cast on shore, though on a less dangerous -bank. We rendered her assistance, and sailed for Cutch, and anchored in -Mandivee roads after a surprising run of thirty-three hours. - -~Negotiations with the Ameer.~ - -It could not now be concealed that the conduct of the Ameer of Sinde -was most unfriendly; but he yet betrayed no such feeling in his -letters. He magnified the difficulties of navigating the Indus, and -arrayed its rocks, quicksands, whirlpools, and shallows, in every -communication; asserting that the voyage to Lahore had never been -performed in the memory of man. It was evident that he viewed the -expedition with the utmost distrust and alarm; and the native agent, -who resides at Hydrabad on the part of the British Government, -described, not without some degree of humour, the fear and dread of -this jealous potentate. In his estimation, we were the precursors of -an army; and did he now desire to grant us a passage through Sinde, -he was at a loss to escape from the falsehoods and contradictions -which he had already stated in his epistles. One letter went on to -say, that “the Ameer of Sinde avoids giving any reply, lest he should -be involved in perplexity; and he has stopped his ears with the -_cotton_ of _absurdity_, and taken some silly notions into his head, -that if Captain Burnes should now come, he will see thousands of -boats on the Indus, and report the same to his Government, who will -conclude that it is the custom of the Ameer of Sinde to deceive on all -subjects, and that he has no sort of friendship.” At length, after -a remonstrance from Colonel Pottinger, both he and myself received -letters from Hydrabad, offering a road through Sinde by land. As this -might be fairly deemed the first opening which had presented itself -during the whole negotiation, with the advice of Colonel Pottinger -I set out a third time for the Indus. That officer in the meanwhile -intimated my departure to the Ameer, and pointed out the impossibility -of my proceeding by land to Lahore. He also intimated, in no measured -language, that the vacillating and unfriendly conduct of the Ameer -of Sinde would not pass unnoticed; the more particularly, since -it concerned the passage of gifts, which had been sent by his most -gracious Majesty the King of Great Britain. - -~Third voyage to the Indus.~ - -~Land in Sinde.~ - -On the 10th of March we once more set sail for the Indus; and -reached the Hujamree, one of the central mouths of the river, after -a prosperous voyage of seven days. We could hire no pilot to conduct -us across the bar, and took the wrong and shallow mouth of the river, -ploughing up the mud as we tacked in its narrow channel. The foremost -vessel loosened her red ensign when she had fairly reached the deep -water; and, with the others, we soon and joyfully anchored near her. -We were now met by an officer of the Sinde Government, one of the -favoured descendants of the Prophet, whose enormous corpulence bespoke -his condition. This personage came to the mouth of the river; for we -were yet refused all admittance to the fresh water. He produced a -letter from the Ameer, and repeated the same refuted arguments of his -master, which he seemed to think should receive credit from his high -rank. It would be tiresome to follow the Sindians through the course of -chicanery which they adopted, even in this stage of the proceedings. -An embargo was laid on all the vessels in the Indus; and we ourselves -were confined to our boats, on a dangerous shore, and even denied fresh -water. The officer urged the propriety of our taking a route by land; -and, as a last resource, I offered to accompany him to the capital, and -converse with the Ameer in person, having previously landed the horses. -I made known this arrangement by a courier, which I despatched to the -Court; and on the following morning quitted the boats, along with Syud -Jeendul Shah, who had been appointed our Mihmandar.[3] No sooner had we -reached Tatta, than the required sanction for the boats to ascend by -the Indus was received, provided we ourselves took the land route; but -I immediately declined to advance another step without my charge; and -ultimately effected, by a week’s negotiation at Tatta, the desired end. -At the expense of being somewhat tedious, I will give an abstract of -these proceedings as a specimen of Sindian policy and reasoning. - -~Negotiations at Tatta.~ - -A few hours after reaching Tatta, Syud Zoolfkar Shah, a man of rank, -and engaging manners, waited on us on the part of the Ameer. He was -accompanied by our Mihmandar, and met us very politely. He said that -he had been sent by his Highness to escort us to Hydrabad; to which -I laconically replied, that nothing would now induce me to go, since -the Ameer had conceded the request which I had made of him. The Syud -here marshalled all his eloquence; asked me if I wished to ruin the -Mihmandar, by making him out a liar, after I had promised to accompany -him to the Court, and he had written so to the Ameer; if I had no -regard for a promise; that the capital was close at hand, and I could -reach it in two marches; that, if I did not now go, it could only be -inferred that I had been practising delusion, from a desire to see -Tatta; for I had even been allowed to choose the route by that city, -contrary to orders; and that I was not, perhaps, aware of the high -character of the Syud, who was a descendant of the holy Prophet, and -honourable in this land; whose dignity, the Christians, who preserved -even the relic of Jesus Christ’s nail, could well understand; and -that it was not the part of a wise man to cavil like a moollah, since -the Ameer had sanctioned the advance of the mission by water, if we -embarked at Hydrabad, and would be answerable for the safety of the -horses to that place; and, finally, that if I persisted in taking the -route by water, he was desired to say that it was a violation of the -treaty between the states. - -I heard with attention the arguments of Zoolfkar Shah; nor did I forget -that the praises and respect which he claimed for his friend, as a -descendant of the Prophet, likewise included himself. I replied, that -there had existed a long standing friendship between Sinde and the -British Government; that I had been despatched by a well frequented -route, to deliver the presents of our gracious Sovereign to Runjeet -Sing at Lahore; that, on reaching Sinde, I had been insulted, abused, -starved, and twice turned out of the country by low persons, whom I -named; that my Government, which was ever considerate, had attributed -this unheard-of insolence, not to their _friend_, the Ameer of Sinde, -but to the ignorance of mean individuals, and had despatched me a third -time to Sinde: when I reached it, I found Syud Jeendul Shah ready to -receive me; but although thoroughly satisfied that the presents of -which I was in charge could never be forwarded by land, he offered -me that route, and detained me on board ship for eleven days, till -necessity had driven me to make a proposal of repairing in person to -the presence of the Ameer, in hopes of persuading that personage. The -case was now altered; the water route had been granted, which rendered -my visit to Hydrabad unnecessary; and I could only view the present -procedure in the light of jealousy, which it was unbecoming in a -Government to entertain. I continued, that I had chosen the route by -Tatta, because my bills were payable at that city; and the sooner the -Syud got his master to meet my wishes, the better; for the floods of -the Indus were at hand, the hot season approached, and delay would -increase the hazard; while no arguments but force would now induce -me to visit the Court, or permit the horses to be moved without my -presence. In fine, if it were not the intention of the Ameer to act a -friendly part, he had only to say so, and I would forthwith quit the -country when I received a letter to that effect; and finally, that he -had formed a very erroneous opinion of the British character, if he -considered that I had been sent here in breach of a treaty, for I had -come to strengthen the bonds of union; and, what was further, that the -promise of an officer was sacred. - -~Address the Ameer.~ - -~Success.~ - -An interview in the following morning, brought a repetition of the -whole arguments; and as we could not convince each other, we both -agreed to address his Highness. After the style of Asiatic diplomacy, -I informed the Ameer, “that he had acted the part of a friend, in -first pointing out the difficulties of navigating the Indus, and now -assisting me through them by giving his sanction to the water route; -but since I was so thoroughly acquainted, through his Highness’s -kindness, with the dangers of the river, I dared not trust such royal -rarities, as the gifts of the King of Great Britain, to the care of any -servant.” In three days I received a full and unqualified sanction to -advance by water from the mouth of the Indus. I gladly quit the detail -of occurrences which have left few pleasing reflections behind, except -that success ultimately attended our endeavours, and that they elicited -the approbation of Government. The Ameer of Sinde had sought to keep -us in ignorance of the Indus; but his treatment had led to another and -opposite effect; since we had entered, in the course of out several -voyages, _all_ the mouths of the river, and a map of them, as well as -of the land route to Tatta, now lay before me. Our dangers on the banks -and shoals had been imminent; but we looked back upon them with the -pleasing thought, that our experience might guide others through them. - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[1] Lord Ellenborough, then President of the India Board. - -[2] Arrian, lib. vi. c. 19. - -[3] An officer who receives a guest. - - - - -CHAP. II. - -TATTA TO HYDRABAD. - - -~Tatta.~ - -A week’s stay was agreeably spent in examining Tatta and the objects -of curiosity which surround it. The city stands at a distance of three -miles from the Indus. It is celebrated in the history of the East. -Its commercial prosperity passed away with the empire of Delhi, and -its ruin has been completed since it fell under the iron despotism -of the present rulers of Sinde. It does not contain a population of -15,000 souls; and of the houses scattered about its ruins, one half -are destitute of inhabitants. It is said, that the dissentions between -the last and present dynasties, which led to Sinde being overrun by -the Afghans, terrified the merchants of the city, who fled the country -at that time, and have had no encouragement to return. Of the weavers -of “loongees” (a kind of silk and cotton manufacture), for which this -place was once so famous, but 125 families remain. There are not forty -merchants[4] in the city. Twenty money-changers transact all the -business of Tatta; and its limited population is now supplied with -animal food by five butchers. Such has been the gradual decay of that -mighty city, so populous in the early part of last century, in the days -of Nadir Shah. The country in its vicinity lies neglected, and but a -small portion of it is brought under tillage. - -~Its antiquity.~ - -The antiquity of Tatta is unquestioned. The Pattala of the Greeks has -been sought for in its position, and, I believe, with good reason; -for the Indus here divides into two great branches; and these are the -words of the historian:--“Near Pattala, the river Indus divides itself -into two vast branches.”[5] Both Robertson and Vincent appear to have -entertained the opinion of its identity with Tatta. The Hindoo Rajas -named it Sameenuggur, before the Mahommedan invasion; which I believe -to be the Minagur of the Periplus. There is a ruined city, called -Kullancote, to be yet seen, four miles S.W. of Tatta. It was also named -Brahminabad, and ruled by one brother, while another held Hydrabad, -then called Nerancote; the Arabs called it Dewul Sindy. Nuggur Tatta -(by which it is now familiarly known) is a more modern name. Till the -Talpoors secured their present footing in Sinde, it was always the -capital of the country. It is an open town, built on a rising ground -in a low valley. In several wells I found bricks imbedded in earth, -at a depth of twenty feet from the surface; but there are no remains -of a prior date to the tombs, on a remarkable ridge westward of the -town, which are about 200 years old. The houses are formed of wood -and wicker-work, plastered over with earth; they are lofty, with flat -roofs, but very confined, and resemble square towers; their colour, -which is of a greyish murky hue, gives an appearance of solidity to -the frail materials of which they are constructed. Some of the better -sort have a base of brickwork; but stone has only been used in the -foundations of one or two mosques, though it may be had in abundance. -There is little in modern Tatta to remind one of its former greatness. -A spacious brick mosque, built by Shah Jehan, still remains, but is -crumbling to decay. - -~Hinglaj, a famous pilgrimage.~ - -Tatta stands on the high road from India to Hinglaj, in Mekran, a place -of pilgrimage and great celebrity, situated under the barren mountains -of Hala (the Irus of the ancients), and marked only by a spring of -fresh water, without house or temple. The spot is believed to have been -visited by Ramchunder, the Hindoo demi-god, himself; an event which -is chronicled on the rock, with figures of the sun and moon engraven -as further testimony! The distance from Tatta exceeds 200 miles; and -the road passes by Curachee, Soumeeanee, and the province of Lus, the -country of the Noomrees, a portion of the route of Alexander the Great. -A journey to Hinglaj purifies the pilgrim from his sins; a cocoa-nut, -cast into a cistern, exhibits the nature of his career: if the water -bubbles up, his life has been, and will continue, pure; but if still -and silent, the Hindoo must undergo further penance, to appease the -deity. The tribe of Goseins, who are a kind of religious mendicants, -though frequently merchants and most wealthy, frequent this sequestered -place, and often extend their journey to an island called Seetadeep, -not far from Bunder Abbass, in Persia. They travel in caravans of an -hundred, or even more, under an “agwa,” or spiritual guide. At Tatta -they are furnished by the high-priest with a rod, which is supposed -to partake of his own virtues, and to conduct the _cortège_ to its -destination. In exchange for its talismanic powers, each pilgrim pays -three rupees and a half, and faithfully promises to restore the rod on -his return; for no one dares to reside in so holy and solitary a spot. -The “agwa” receives with it his reward; and many a Hindoo expends in -this pilgrimage the hard-earned wealth of a whole life. On his arrival -at Tatta from Hinglaj, he is invested with a string of white beads, -peculiar to that city, and only found on the rocky ridge near it. -They resemble the grains of pulse or juwaree; and the pilgrim has the -satisfaction of believing that they are the petrified grain of the -Creator, left on earth to remind him of his creation. They now form a -monopoly and source of profit to the priests of Tatta. - -~Climate. Return to the mouth of the Indus.~ - -We quitted Tatta on the morning of the 10th of April, and retraced our -steps to Meerpoor; a distance of twenty-four miles, over roads nearly -impassable from rain. I observe, in Hamilton’s “India,” that there is -frequently a dearth of it here for three years at a time; but we had -very heavy showers and a severe fall of hail, though the thermometer -stood at 86°. The dews and mists about Tatta make it a disagreeable -residence at this season; and the dust is described as intolerable in -June and July. - -Our road lay through a desert country along the “Buggaur;” one of the -two large branches of the Indus, which separate below Tatta. It has -its name from the destructive velocity with which it runs, tearing up -trees in its course. It has been forsaken for a few years past, and -had only a width of 200 yards where we crossed it, below Meerpoor. The -Indus itself, before this division takes place, is a noble river; and -we beheld it at Tatta with high gratification. The water is foul and -muddy; but it is 2000 feet wide, two fathoms and a half deep, from -shore to shore. When I first saw it, the surface was agitated by a -violent wind, which had raised up waves, that raged with great fury; -and I no longer felt wonder at the natives designating so vast a river -by the name of “durya,” or the Sea of Sinde. - -~Notions of the people.~ - -On our return, we saw much of the people, who were disposed from the -first to treat us more kindly than the government. Their notions -regarding us were strange: some asked us why we allowed dogs to clean -our hands after a meal, and if we indiscriminately ate cats and mice, -as well as pigs. They complained much of their rulers, and the ruinous -and oppressive system of taxation to which they were subjected, as -it deterred them from cultivating any considerable portion of land. -Immense tracts of the richest soil lie in a state of nature, between -Tatta and the sea, overgrown with tamarisk shrubs, which attain, -in some places, the height of twenty feet, and, threading into one -another, form impervious thickets. At other places, we passed extensive -plains of hard-caked clay, with remains of ditches and aqueducts, now -neglected. We reached the sea in two days. - -~Alexander’s journey.~ - -Arrian informs us, that, after Alexander returned from viewing the -right branch of the Indus, he again set out from Pattala, and descended -the other branch of the river, which conducted him to a “certain lake, -joined either by the river spreading wide over a flat country, or -by additional streams flowing into it from the adjacent parts, and -making it appear like a bay in the sea.” There, too, he commanded -another haven to be built, named Xylenopolis. The professed object of -this second voyage to the sea was to seek for bays and creeks on the -sea-coast, and to explore which of the two branches would afford the -greatest facilities for the passage of his fleet; for Arrian says, -“he had a vast ambition of sailing all through the sea, from India to -Persia, to prove that the Indian Gulf had a communication with the -Persian.” In this bay Alexander landed, with a party of horse, and -travelled along the coast, to try if he could find bays and creeks to -secure his fleets from storms; “_causing wells to be dug, to supply -his navy with water_.” I look upon it, therefore, as conclusive that -Alexander the Great descended by the Buggaur and Sata, the two great -branches below Tatta, and never entered Cutch, as has been surmised, -but that his three days’ journey, after descending the eastern branch, -was westward, and between the two mouths, in the direction his fleet -was to sail. - -~Embark on the Indus. Boats.~ - -On the 12th of April, we embarked in the flat-bottomed boats, or -“doondees,” of Sinde, and commenced our voyage on the Indus, with no -small degree of satisfaction. Our fleet consisted of six of these -flat-bottomed vessels, and a small English-built pinnace, which we -had brought from Cutch. The boats of the Indus are not unlike China -junks, very capacious, but most unwieldy. They are floating houses; and -with ourselves we transported the boatmen, their wives and families, -kids and fowls. When there is no wind, they are pulled up against the -stream, by ropes attached to the mast-head, at the rate of a mile and -a half an hour; but with a breeze, they set a large square-sail, and -advance double the distance. We halted at Vikkur, which is the first -port; a place of considerable export for grain, that had then fifty -“doondees,” besides sea-vessels, lying near it. - -~Wanyanee branch.~ - -On the 13th, we threaded many small creeks for a distance of eight -miles, and then entered the Wanyanee, or principal branch of the Indus, -which is a fine river, 500 yards broad and 24 feet deep. Its banks were -alternately steep and flat, the course very crooked, and the different -turnings were often marked by branches running from this trunk to other -arms of the delta. We had nothing but tamarisk on either bank, and the -reed huts of a few fishermen, alone indicated that we were in a peopled -country. - -~A holy man.~ - -As we ascended the river, the inhabitants came for miles around to see -us. A Syud stood on the water’s edge, and gazed with astonishment. He -turned to his companion as we passed, and, in the hearing of one of our -party, said, “Alas! Sinde is now gone, since the English have seen the -river, which is the road to its conquest.” If such an event do happen, -I am certain that the body of the people will hail the happy day; but -it will be an evil one for the Syuds, the descendants of Mahommed, who -are the only people, besides the rulers, that derive precedence and -profit from the existing order of things. - -~Strictness of religious observances.~ - -Nothing more arrests the notice of a stranger, on entering Sinde, -than the severe attention of the people to the forms of religion, as -enjoined by the Prophet of Arabia. In all places, the meanest and -poorest of mankind may be seen, at the appointed hours, turned towards -Mecca, offering up their prayers. I have observed a boatman quit the -laborious duty of dragging the vessel against the stream, and retire to -the shore, wet and covered with mud, to perform his genuflexions. In -the smallest villages, the sound of the “mowuzzun,” or crier, summoning -true believers to prayers, may be heard, and the Mahommedans within -reach of the sonorous sound suspend, for the moment, their employment, -that they may add their “Amen” to the solemn sentence when concluded. -The effect is pleasing and impressive; but, as has often happened in -other countries at a like stage of civilisation, the moral qualities of -the people do not keep pace with this fervency of devotion. - -~Navigation of the Indus.~ - -On the evening of the 15th, we anchored at Tatta, after a prosperous -voyage, that afforded a good insight into the navigation of the Indus; -which, in the Delta, is both dangerous and difficult. The water runs -with impetuosity from one bank to another, and undermines them so, that -they often fall in masses which would crush a vessel. During night -they may be heard tumbling with a terrific crash and a noise as loud -as artillery. In one place, the sweep of the river was so sudden that -it had formed a kind of whirlpool, and all our vessels heeled round, -on passing it, from the rapidity of the current. We had every where -six fathoms of water, and in these eddies the depth was sometimes -threefold; but our vessels avoided the strength of the current, and -shifted from side to side, to choose the shallows. - -~Pulla fish.~ - -We ascended the Indus in the season of the “pulla,” a fish of the carp -species, as large as the mackerel, and fully equalling the flavour -of salmon. It is only found in the four months that precede the -swell of the river from January to April, and never higher than the -fortress of Bukkur. The natives superstitiously believe the fish to -proceed there on account of Khaju Khizr, a saint of celebrity, who -is interred there, from whence they are said to return without ever -turning their tails on the sanctified spot,--an assertion which the -muddy colour of the Indus will prevent being contradicted. The mode -of catching this fish is ingenious, and peculiar, I believe, to the -Indus. Each fisherman is provided with a large earthen jar, open at -the top, and somewhat flat. On this he places himself, and, lying on -it horizontally, launches into the stream, swimming or pushing forward -like a frog, and guiding himself with his hands. When he has reached -the middle of the river, where the current is strongest, he darts -his net directly under him, and sails down with the stream. The net -consists of a pouch attached to a pole, which he shuts on meeting his -game; he then draws it up, spears it, and, putting it into the vessel -on which he floats, prosecutes his occupation. There are some vessels -of small dimensions, without any orifice, and on these the fishermen -sail down, in a sitting posture. Hundreds of people, old and young, may -be seen engaged in catching pulla, and the season is hailed with joy -by the people, as furnishing a wholesome food while it lasts, and an -abundant supply of dry fish for the remaining part of the year, as well -as for exportation to the neighbouring countries. - -~Reach the capital.~ - -On the morning of the 18th, we moored opposite Hydrabad, which is five -miles inland, having had a strong and favourable breeze from Tatta, -that brought us against the stream, at the rate of three miles an hour. -The dust was intolerable every where, and a village might always be -discovered by the dense clouds which hovered over it. This part of -Sinde is well known: the country is devoted to sterility by the Ameers, -to feed their passion for the chase. The banks are enclosed to the -water’s edge, and the interior of these hunting-thickets is overgrown -with furze, brushwood, and stunted babool trees, which always retain a -verdant hue, from the richness of the soil. One or two solitary camels -were to be seen raising water to fill the pools of these preserves, -as the Ameer and his relatives had announced a hunting excursion, and -the deer[6] would be drawn by thirst to drink at the only fountain, -and shot by an Ameer from a place of concealment. It is thus that the -chiefs sport with their game and their subjects. - -~Deputation from the Ameer.~ - -Immediately on our arrival, four different deputations waited on us, -to convey the congratulations of Meer Moorad Ali Khan, and his family, -at our having reached the capital of Sinde, and at the same time to -tender the strongest professions of friendship and respect for the -British government; to all of which I returned suitable answers. In -the evening we were conducted to Hydrabad, and alighted at the house, -or “tanda,” of Nawab Wulee Mahommed Khan, the Vizier of Sinde, whose -son, in the father’s absence, was appointed our mihmandar. Tents were -pitched, and provisions of every description sent to us; and it would, -indeed, have been difficult to discover that we were the individuals -who had so long lingered about the shores of Sinde, now the honoured -guests of its jealous master. Great and small were in attendance on us: -khans and Syuds, servants and chobdars brought messages and enquiries, -till the night was far spent; and it may not be amiss to mention, -as a specimen of conducting business in Sinde, that the barber, the -water-cooler, and the prime minister were sent indiscriminately with -errands on the same subject. - -~Preparations for reception at court.~ - -The ceremonial of our reception was soon adjusted, but not without -some exhibition of Sindian character. After the time had been mutually -fixed for the following afternoon, our mihmandar made his appearance at -_daybreak_, to request that we would then accompany him to the palace. -I spoke of the arrangements that had been made; but he treated all -explanation with indifference, and eulogised, in extravagant language, -the great condescension of his master in giving us an interview so -early, while the Vakeels, or representatives of other states, often -waited for weeks. I informed the Khan that I entertained very different -sentiments regarding his master’s giving us so early a reception, and -assured him that I viewed it as no sort of favour, and was satisfied -that the Ameer himself was proud in receiving, at any time, any agent -of the British Government. The reply silenced him, and he shortly -afterwards withdrew, and sent an apology for this importunity, which, -he stated, had originated in a mistake. The pride of the Sindian must -be met by the same weapons; and, however disagreeable the line of -conduct, it will be found, in all matters of negotiation, to carry -along with it its own reward: altercations that have passed will be -succeeded by civility and politeness, and a shade of oblivion will be -cast over all that is unpleasant. - -~Presentation.~ - -In the evening we were presented to the Ameer of Sinde by his son, -Nusseer Khan, who had previously received us in his own apartments, to -inform us of his attachment to the British Government, and the state -secret of his having been the means of procuring for us a passage -through Sinde. We found the Ameer seated in the middle of a room, -attended by his various relatives: they all rose on our entrance, and -were studiously polite. His Highness addressed me by name; said I was -his friend, both on public and private grounds; for my brother (Dr. -Burnes) had cured him of a dangerous disease. At the same time he -caused me to be seated along with him on the cushion which he occupied: -he begged that I would forget the difficulties and dangers encountered, -and consider him as the ally of the British Government, and my own -friend. The long detention which had occurred in our advance, he -continued, had arisen from his ignorance of political concerns, as he -considered it involved a breach of the treaty between the states; for -he was a soldier, and knew little of such matters, and was employed in -commanding _the three hundred thousand Beloochees_, over whom God had -appointed him to rule! We had now, however, arrived at his capital, and -he assured us that we were welcome: his own state barge should convey -us to his frontier; his subjects should drag our vessels against the -stream. Elephants and palanqueens were at our disposal, if we would -accept them; and he would vie in exertion with ourselves, to forward, -in safety, the presents of his Most Gracious Majesty the King of Great -Britain, and had nominated the son of his Vizier to accompany us to -the limits of his territories. I did not deem it necessary to enter -into any explanation with his Highness, nor to give him in return -the muster-roll of our mighty army. I thanked him for his marks of -attention to the Government and ourselves, and said, that I was glad -to find that the friendship between the states, which had led to my -taking the route through his dominions, had not been underrated; for -it would be worse than folly in an unprotected individual to attempt -a passage by the Indus without his cordial concurrence. With regard -to the dangers and difficulties which had been already encountered, I -assured his Highness, that the prevailing good fortune of the British -Government had predominated; and though it was not in the power of man -to avert calamities by sea, we had by the favour of God happily escaped -them all, and I doubted not that the authorities I served would derive -as much satisfaction from the manner in which he had now received us as -I myself did. The interview here terminated; his Highness previously -fixing the following morning for a second meeting, when I would -communicate some matters of a political nature with which I had been -charged by the Government. - -~Court of Sinde.~ - -I shall not enter on a description of the Court of Sinde, as it may -be found in Lieut. Col. Pottinger’s work, and in a narrative lately -published by my brother.[7] Its splendour must have faded, for though -the Ameer and his family certainly wore some superb jewels, there was -not much to attract our notice in their palace or durbar: they met in -a dirty hall without a carpet; they sat in a room which was filled by -a rabble of greasy soldiery, and the noise and dust were hardly to be -endured. The orders of the Ameer himself to procure silence, though -repeated several times, were ineffectual, and some of the conversation -was inaudible on that account. We were, however, informed that the -crowd had been collected to display the legions of Sinde; and they -certainly contrived to fill the alleys and passages every where, not -could we pass out of the fort without some exertion on the part of the -nobles, who were our conductors. - -~Presents.~ - -~Sindian meanness.~ - -I followed up the interview by sending the government presents which -I had brought for his Highness: they consisted of various articles -of European manufacture,--a gun, a brace of pistols, a gold watch, -two telescopes, a clock, some English shawls and cloths, with two -pair of elegant cut glass candlesticks and shades. Some Persian works -beautifully lithographed in Bombay, and a map of the World and -Hindoostan, in Persian characters, completed the gift. The principal -Ameer had previously sent two messages, begging that I would not give -the articles to any person but himself; and the possessor of fifteen -millions sterling portioned, with a partial hand, among the members of -his family, the gifts that did not exceed the value of a few hundred -pounds. His meanness may be imagined, when he privately deputed his -Vizier to beg that I would exchange the clock and candlesticks for some -articles among the presents, which I doubtless had for other chiefs, -as they formed no part of the furniture of a Sindian palace. I told -the Vizier that the presents which I had brought were intended to -display the manufactures of Europe, and it was not customary to give -the property of one person to another. This denial produced a second -message; and, as a similar occurrence happened, in 1809, to a mission -at this court, we gather from the coincidence how little spirit and -feeling actuate the cabinet of Hydrabad. Some score of trays, loaded -with fruit and sweetmeats adorned with gold-leaf, and sent by the -different members of the family, closed the day. - -~Parting interview.~ - -Early in the morning, we were conducted to the durbar by Meer Ismaeel -Shah, one of the Viziers, and our mihmandar: on the road the -Vizier took occasion to assure me how much I would please the Ameer -by changing the clock! There was more order and regularity in our -second interview, which was altogether very satisfactory; for the -Ameer gave a ready assent to the wishes of Government when they were -communicated to him. The conversation which ensued was of the most -friendly description. His Highness asked particularly for my brother, -looked attentively at our dress, and was much amused with the shape -and feather of the cocked hat I wore. Before bidding him adieu, he -repeated, in even stronger language, all his yesterday’s professions; -and, however questionable his sincerity, I took my departure with -much satisfaction at what had passed, since it seemed he would no -longer interrupt our advance to Lahore. Meer Nusseer Khan, the son of -the Ameer, presented me with a handsome Damascus sword, which had a -scabbard of red velvet ornamented with gold; his father sent me a purse -of fifteen hundred rupees, with an apology, that he had not a blade -mounted as he desired, and begged I would accept the value of one. -After all the inconvenience to which we had been subjected, we hardly -expected such a reception at Hydrabad. Next morning we left the city, -and encamped on the banks of the Indus near our boats. - -~Scenery near Hydrabad.~ - -The scenery near the capital of Sinde is varied and beautiful: -the sides of the river are lined with lofty trees; and there is a -background of hill to relieve the eye from the monotony which presents -itself in the dusty arid plains of the Delta. The Indus is larger, too, -than in most places lower down, being about 830 yards wide; there is a -sand-bank in the middle, but it is hidden by the stream. The island on -which Hydrabad stands is barren, from the rocky and hilly nature of the -soil, but even the arable parts are poorly cultivated. - -~Hydrabad.~ - -On the capital itself, I can add little to the accounts which are -already on record. It does not contain a population of twenty thousand -souls, who live in houses, or rather huts, built of mud. The residence -of the chief himself is a comfortless miserable dwelling. The fort, -as well as the town, stands on a rocky hillock; and the former is a -mere shell, partly surrounded by a ditch, about ten feet wide and -eight deep, over which there is a wooden bridge. The walls are about -twenty-five feet high, built of brick, and fast going to decay. -Hydrabad is a place of no strength, and might readily be captured -by escalade. In the centre of the fort there is a massive tower, -unconnected with the works, which overlooks the surrounding country. -Here are deposited a great portion of the riches of Sinde. The -Fulailee river insulates the ground on which Hydrabad stands; but, -though a considerable stream during the swell, it was quite dry when -we visited this city in April. The view of Hydrabad, prefixed to this -volume, and for which I am indebted to Captain M. Grindlay, faithfully -represents that capital and the country which surrounds it. - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[4] Banians. - -[5] Arrian, lib. 6. - -[6] The species hunted in Sinde is called “hotapuchu:” it is a kind of -hog deer. - -[7] Narrative of a Visit to the Court of Sinde. Edin. 1831. - - - - -CHAP. III. - -VOYAGE TO BUKKUR. - - -~Departure from Hydrabad.~ - -On the morning of the 23d of April, we embarked in the state barge of -the Ameer, which is called a “jumtee” by the natives of the country. -They are very commodious vessels, of the same build as the other -flat-bottomed boats of the Indus, and sadly gainsayed the beggarly -account which his Highness had, in his correspondence, so often given -of the craft in the river. It was about sixty feet long, and had three -masts, on which we hoisted as many sails, made of alternate stripes of -red and white cloth. There were two cabins, connected with each other -by a deck; but, contrary to the custom in other countries, the one at -the bows is the post of honour. It was of a pavilion shape, covered -with scarlet cloth, and the eyes of intruders were excluded on all -sides by silken screens. The jumtee was further decorated by variegated -flags and pendants, some of which were forty feet long. We hoisted the -British ensign at the stern of our pinnace, the first time, I suppose, -it had ever been unfurled on the Indus; and the little vessel which -bore it out-sailed all the fleet. I hope the omen was auspicious, and -that the commerce of Britain may soon follow her flag. We moved merrily -through the water, generally with a fair wind, anchoring always at -night, and pitching our camp on the shore, pleased to find ourselves -beyond the portals of Hydrabad. - -~Sehwun.~ - -We reached Sehwun on the 1st of May, a distance of 100 miles, in eight -days. There was little to interest us on the banks of the river, which -are thinly peopled, and destitute of trees or variety to diversify the -scene. The Lukkee mountains, a high range, came in sight on the third -day, running in upon the Indus at Sehwun. The stream itself, though -grand and magnificent, was often divided by sand-banks, and moved -sluggishly along at the rate of two miles and a half an hour. One of -our boats had nearly sunk from coming in contact with a protruding -stump; an accident of frequent occurrence on the Indus, as well as -on the American rivers, and sometimes attended with fatal results, -particularly to vessels descending the stream. Our escape from calamity -gave the Sindians a topic for congratulation, and we daily heard the -greatness of our fortune proclaimed. Every trivial incident, a slight -breeze or any such occurrence, they did not hesitate to ascribe to our -destiny. - -~Crew of the boat.~ - -Our crew consisted of sixteen men; and a happy set of beings they were: -they waded through the water all day, and swam and sported about, as -they passed along, with joyous hearts, returning occasionally to the -boat to indulge in the hooka, and the intoxicating “bang,” or hemp, to -which they are much addicted. They prepare this drug by straining the -juice from the seeds and stalks through a cloth: when ready for use, -it resembles green putrid water. It must be very pernicious. I do not -know if I can class their pipes among the movables of the ship; for -their stands were formed of a huge piece of earthenware, too heavy to -be lifted, which remains at the stern, where the individuals retire to -inhale the weed, made doubly noxious by its being mixed with opium. -The sailors of Sinde are Mahommedans. They are very superstitious, the -sight of a crocodile below Hydrabad is an evil omen which would never -be forgotten; and in that part of the Indus these monsters certainly -confined themselves to the deep. - -~A Sindian song.~ - -In the songs and chorus which the Sindians use in pulling their ropes -and sails, we discover their reverence for saints. Seafaring people -are, I believe, musical in all countries; and, though in a strange -dialect, there is simplicity and beauty in some of the following -rhymes:-- - - -_Original._ - - Hulam hulam hyl, Joomba lanee, - Leenlanee, Hewa qila, - Mudud peeran. Dawa fuqueeran - Dawa jee nalee. Beree chale: - Beree ranee, Surung sookhanee. - Oono panee, ------------ - Lumba kooa, Sulamut hooa, - Wujun dumana Acbar Shah ja. - - -_Translation._ - - Pull, oh! pull! Use your strength, - Raise your shoulders, By the favour of God, - Press your feet. By the Saint’s assistance - The boat will sail, She is a pretty boat: - The steersman’s a warrior. The water is deep, - The mast is tall. She will reach in safety. - Beat the drum Of King Acbar, - The port is attained By the favour of God. - -Another specimen runs thus:-- - - Peer Putta! Jug ditta, - Nuggur Tatta! Panee mitta. - Julla kejye, Tanee lejge, - Tan tumasha: Bunder khasa, - Bundur koochee. Murd Beloochee. - Bundur maryo, Rub dekkaryo. - Moolk Hubeebee. Rub a rubbee. - - -_Translation._ - - Hail, Peer Putta! Who has seen the world, - Hail, city of Tatta! The water is sweet. - Pull together, Pull at once, - Pull for joy. The port is good, - Tho’ the harbour is small. The men are Beloochees. - Behold the harbour tower, Which God has shown us. - The country is God’s, By God we came. - -As we discovered the mosques of Sehwun, the boatmen in their joy beat a -drum, and chanted many of these verses, which had a pleasing sound on -passing the base of the Lukkee mountains, that present a rocky buttress -to the Indus on approaching Sehwun. - -~Sehwun, its antiquity.~ - -The town of Sehwun stands on a rising ground, at the verge of a swamp, -two miles from the Indus, close to a branch of that river called -Arul, which flows from Larkhanu. It has a population of about 10,000 -souls, and is commanded on the north side by a singular castle or -mound of earth. Sehwun is sometimes called Sewistan, and is a place -of antiquity. There are many ruined mosques and tombs which surround -it, and proclaim its former wealth; but it has gradually gone to decay -since it ceased to be the residence of a governor, who here held his -court in the days of Moghul splendour. As it stands near the Lukkee -mountains, I believe it may be fixed on as the city of Sambus, Raja -of the Indian mountaineers, mentioned by Alexander. The Sindomanni -cannot refer to the inhabitants of Lower Sinde, which is always called -Pattala, and its ruler the “prince of the Pattalans.” Sindee is the -modern term for the aboriginal inhabitants. - -~Pilgrimage of Sehwun.~ - -Sehwun has considerable celebrity and sanctity from the tomb of a holy -saint of Khorasan, by name Lal Shah Baz, who was interred here about -600 years ago. The shrine stands in the centre of the town, and rests -under a lofty dome at one end of a quadrangular building, which is -handsomely ornamented by blue painted slabs, like Dutch tiles, that -give it a rich appearance. A cloth of gold, with two other successive -palls of red silk, are suspended over the sepulchre, and on the walls -which surround it are inscribed in large Arabic letters the praises -of the deceased, and extracts from the Koran. Ostrich eggs, peacocks’ -feathers, beads, flowers, &c. complete the furniture of this holy spot; -and pigeons, the emblems of peace, are encouraged to perch on the -cloths which shade the remains of departed virtue. The miracles of Lal -Shah Baz are endless, if you believe the people. The Indus is subject -to his commands, and no vessel dares to pass his shrine without making -a propitiatory offering at his tomb. Thousands of pilgrims flock to -the consecrated spot, and the monarchs of Cabool and India have often -visited the sanctuary. The drums which proclaim the majesty of the -saint are a gift from the renowned persecutor Alla-o-deen, who reigned -A.D. 1242; and the gate, which is of silver, attests the homage and -devotion of a deceased Ameer of Sinde. The needy are daily supplied -with food from the charity of the stranger; but the universal bounty -has corrupted the manners of the inhabitants, who are a worthless -and indolent set of men. The Hindoo joins with the Mahommedan in his -veneration of the saint, and artfully insinuates “Lal” to be a Hindoo -name, and that the Mahommedans have associated with the faith of their -prophet the god of an infidel creed. A tiger, once the tenant of the -neighbouring hills, partakes of the general bounty in a cage near the -tomb. - -~Castle of Sehwun, its antiquity.~ - -By far the most singular building at Sehwun, and perhaps on the -Indus, is the ruined castle which overlooks the town, and is in all -probability as old as the age of the Greeks. It consists of a mound of -earth sixty feet high, and surrounded from the very ground by a brick -wall. The shape of the castle is oval, about 1200 feet long by 750 in -diameter. The interior presents a heap of ruins, and is strewed with -broken pieces of pottery and brick. The gateway is on the town side, -and has been arched: a section through it proves the whole mound to be -artificial. At a distance this castle resembles the drawings of the -Mujilebe tower at Babylon, described by Mr. Rich in his interesting -Memoir. - -The natives afford no satisfactory account of this ruin, attributing -it to the age of Budur-ool-Jamal, a fairy, whose agency is referred -to in every thing ancient or wonderful in Sinde. It is to be observed, -that the Arul river passes close to this castle; and we are informed -by Quintus Curtius that, in the territories of Sabus Raja, (which I -imagine refers to Sehwun,) “Alexander took the strongest city by a -tunnel formed by his miners.” A ruin of such magnitude, standing, -as it therefore does, on such a site, would authorise our fixing on -it as the very city “where the barbarians, untaught in engineering, -were confounded when their enemies appeared, almost in the middle of -the city, rising from a subterraneous passage of which no trace was -previously seen.” So strong a position would not, in all probability, -be neglected in after-times; and in the reign of the Emperor Humaioon, -A.D. 1541, we find that monarch unable to capture Sehwun, from which -he fled on his disastrous journey to Omercote. His son Acbar also -invested Sehwun for seven months, and after its capture seems to have -dismantled it. There are many coins found in the castle of Sehwun; but -among thirty I could find no trace of the Greek alphabet. They were -Mahommedan coins of the sovereigns of Delhi. - -~Mound of Amree.~ - -About eighteen miles below Sehwun, and on the same side of the river, -is the village of Amree, believed to have been once a large city, and -the favourite residence of former kings. It is said to have been swept -into the Indus. Near the modern village, however, there is a mound of -earth, about forty feet high, which the traditions of the country point -out as the halting-place of a king, who ordered the dung of his cavalry -to be gathered together, and hence the mound of Amree! There are some -tombs near it, but they are evidently modern. - -We halted four days at Sehwun. The climate was most sultry and -oppressive: the thermometer stood at 112°, and did not fall below 100° -at midnight, owing to scorching winds from the west, where the country -is bleak and mountainous. The lofty range which runs parallel with the -Indus from the sea-coast to the centre of Asia, is joined by the Lukkee -mountains south of Sehwun, and thus excludes the refreshing breezes of -the ocean. - -We quitted Sehwun on the 4th with difficulty, for we could not procure -men to drag our boats. The mihmandar, though he was the vizier’s -son, and acted under the seal of the Ameer, could not prevail on the -Calendar, or priest of the tomb, who said that no such order had been -ever given, and he would not now obey it. Some persons were seized: -his people drew their swords, and said that, when no longer able to -wield them, they might go. We knew nothing of the matter till it was -over, as it was entirely a private arrangement of Syud Tukkee Shah, the -mihmandar. When the men heard they were to be remunerated for their -trouble, they came of their own accord before we sailed. Every thing in -Sinde being effected by force under despotism, the watermen of Sehwun -fled the town, or took up their abode in the sanctuary, when they saw -the “jumtee” approach, believing, as usual, that services would be -required of them gratuitously. - -~Congratulations from Khyrpoor.~ - -On the day after quitting Sehwun, we were met by Mahommed Gohur, a -Belooche chief, and a party, the confidential agents of Meer Roostum -Khan, the Ameer of Khyrpoor, who had been sent to the frontier, a -distance of eighty miles, to congratulate us on our arrival, and -declare their master’s devotion to the British Government. We hardly -expected such a mark of attention in Sinde, and were therefore -gratified. The deputation brought an abundant supply of sheep, flour, -fruit, spices, sugar, butter, ghee, tobacco, opium, &c. &c., on which -our people feasted. Sheep were slain and cooked; rice and ghee were -soon converted into savoury viands; and I believe all parties thanked -Meer Roostum Khan as heartily as we did, nor did I imagine that this -was but the commencement of a round of feasting which was daily -repeated so long as we were in his country, a period of three weeks. -Mahommed Gohur was a decrepit old man, with a red beard. He wore a very -handsome loongee round his waist. He did not recover from his surprise -throughout the interview, for he had never before seen an European. - -~Address the Ameer of Khyrpoor.~ - -In return for Meer Roostum Khan’s kindness, I addressed to him a -Persian letter in the following terms, which will serve as a specimen -of the epistolary style used by the people of this country, which I -imitated as closely as possible.:-- - -(After compliments:) “I hasten to inform your Highness that I have -reached the frontiers of your country in company with the respectable -Syud Tukkee Shah, who has accompanied me on the part of Meer Morad -Ali Khan from Hydrabad. As I have long since heard of your Highness -from those who pass between Cutch and Sinde, it forms a source of -congratulation to me that I have arrived in your dominions, and brought -along with me in safety the presents which have been graciously -bestowed on Maha Raja Runjeet Sing by His Majesty the King of England, -mighty in rank, terrible as the planet Mars, a monarch great and -magnificent, of the rank of Jemshid, of the dignity of Alexander, -unequalled by Darius, just as Nousherwan, great as Fureedoon, admired -as Cyrus, famed as the Sun, the destroyer of tyranny and oppression, -upright and generous, pious and devout, favoured from above, &c. &c.: -may his dominion endure for ever! - -“It is well known that when a friend comes to the country of a friend -it is a source of much happiness, and I have therefore written these -few lines; but when I have the pleasure of seeing you, my joy will be -increased. - -“I had written thus far, when the respectable Mahommed Gohur, one of -those enjoying your Highness’s confidence, arrived at this place, -to acquaint me with your professions of respect and friendship for -the British Government, bringing along with him many marks of your -hospitality. Need I say I am rejoiced? Such civilities mark the great.” - -~Character of the people.~ - -A voyage of ten days brought us to Bukkur; but we landed a few miles -from that fortress, to prepare for a visit to Khyrpoor and its chief, -who had made us so welcome in his country. We saw much of the Sindians -on our way up the river, and did every thing to encourage their -approach by granting free admission on board to the commonest villager -who wished to view the horses. The body of the people are little -better than savages, and extremely ignorant; their spiritual guides -and Syuds, or the followers of the prophet, however, showed knowledge -and independence. I happened to ask a party of Syuds to what Ameer -they were subject: they replied, “We acknowledge no master but God, -who gives us villages and all we desire.” I was struck with the family -likeness that prevails throughout this class in Sinde; for it is not -to be supposed that a tribe so numerous has lineally descended from -the prophet of Arabia. The beggars of Sinde are most importunate and -troublesome. They practise all manner of persuasion to succeed in their -suit for alms; tear up grass and bushes with their mouths, and chew -sand and mud to excite compassion. - -With the better orders of society we had frequent intercourse and -conversation. Some of them felt interested about the objects of our -mission to Lahore. They did not give us much credit for sincerity in -sending it by a route which they believed never to have been passed -since the time of Noah. They were full of enquiries regarding our -customs. Our Khyrpoor friend, Mahomed Gohur, was particularly horrified -at our arrangements for getting a wife, and begged me in future to let -my beard grow. The knowledge of this individual I may describe, when he -asked me if London were under Calcutta: he was, however, a pleasant -man; I delighted to hear him sing the praises of the soldiers of Sinde, -who, he said, differed from all the world in thinking it an honour to -fight on foot. The feelings of pity which some of the people displayed -for us were amusing: they were shocked to hear that we cleaned our -teeth with hogs’ bristles. I was frequently asked to lay aside the -English saddle, which they considered quite unworthy, and worse than a -seat on the bare back of the horse. - -~The Indus: names for it.~ - -The Indus in this part of its course is called Sira, in distinction -from Lar, which is its appellation below Sehwun. These are two Belooche -words for north and south; and of the name of Sirae, or Khosa, a -tribe inhabiting the desert on the east, we have thus a satisfactory -explanation; as these people originally spread from Sira, in the upper -course of the Indus. Mehran, a name of this river, familiar to the -Indians and foreigners, is not used by the natives of the country. The -water of the Indus is considered superior, for every purpose of life, -to that drawn from the wells of Sinde. When taken from the river it is -very foul; but the rich keep it till the mud with which it is loaded -subsides. There are few ferry-boats on the Indus; and it is a curious -sight to see the people crossing it on skins and bundles of reeds. -A native will often float down to a distance of fifteen or twenty -miles, accompanied by a whole herd of buffaloes, preferring this mode -of travelling to a journey on the banks. From Sehwun upwards they kill -the “pulla” fish by nets suspended from the bow of small boats, which -are, at the same time, the habitations of the fisherman and his family. -The wife, who is generally a sturdy dame, pulls the stern oar to keep -the vessel in the middle of the stream, often with a baby in her arms, -while the husband kills the fish. One would not have expected to find -porpoises so far from the sea; but they are to be observed sporting in -the river as high as Bukkur; they are more grey than those in the salt -water. - -~Visited by the Vizier of Sinde.~ - -I should have mentioned, that before reaching Bukkur, we were visited -by the Nawab Wulee Mahomed Khan Lugharee, one of the viziers of Sinde, -who had travelled from Shikarpoor to meet us. We found him a decrepit -old man of seventy-two, on the verge of the grave. He treated us with -particular kindness, and quite won our hearts by his attentions. He -gave me a horse and a rich loongee. He said in the plainest terms that -the Ameer had had evil counsel to detain us so long in Sinde, and -that he had written urgently to his Highness not to commit himself -by such a step. We had now a good opportunity of seeing a Belooche -chief on his native soil. He came with a splendid equipage of tents -and carpets, accompanied by three palankeens, and about 400 men. A -set of dancing girls were among his suite; and in the evening we were -compelled, against our inclination, to hear these ladies squall for -a couple of hours, and, what added to the disgust of the scene, they -drank at intervals of the strongest spirits, to _clear their voices_, -as they said, until nearly intoxicated. It was impossible to express -any displeasure at this exhibition, since the gala, however much out of -taste, was got up in the hope of adding to our amusement. The people -with us, who now amounted to 150, were sumptuously entertained by the -Nawab, who kept us with him for two days. - -~Vizier of Khyrpoor.~ - -On the morning of the 14th we disembarked near the small village of -Alipoor, and were met by the vizier of Meer Roostum Khan, who had come -from Khyrpoor to receive us. His name was Futteh Khan Ghoree, an aged -person of mild and affable manners, and of peculiar appearance from a -snow white beard and red hair. Our reception was cordial and kind; the -vizier assured us of the high satisfaction with which his master had -heard of our arrival, for he had long desired to draw closer to the -British government, and had never yet had the good fortune to meet any -of its agents. He said that Meer Roostum Khan did not presume to put -himself on an equality with so potent and great a nation, but hoped -that he might be classed among its wellwishers, and as one ready to -afford his services on all occasions. Futteh Khan added that Khyrpoor -formed a separate portion of Sinde from Hydrabad, a fact which he -begged I would remember. I was not altogether unprepared for this -communication, for I judged from his previous efforts to please that -the ruler had some object in view. I assured the vizier of my sense -of his master’s attentions, and promised to talk on these matters -after our interview. He brought a palankeen to convey me in state to -Khyrpoor, a distance of fourteen miles, to which city we marched on the -following day. - -~Ameer of Khyrpoor.~ - -After what I have already stated, our interview with Meer Roostum Khan -may be well imagined: he received us under a canopy of silk, seated -on a cushion of cloth of gold. He was surrounded by the members of -his family, forty of whom (males), descended in a right line from his -father, are yet alive. There was more state and show than at Hydrabad, -but as little attention to order or silence. We exchanged the usual -complimentary speeches of like occasions. I thanked his Highness for -the uniform attention and hospitality which we had received. Meer -Roostum Khan is about fifty; his beard and hair were quite white, -and the expression of his countenance, as well as his manners, were -peculiarly mild. He and his relatives were too much taken up with our -uniforms and faces to say much; and he begged us to return in the -evening, when there would be less bustle and confusion, to which we -readily assented. I gave him my watch before leaving, and sent him a -brace of pistols and a kaleidescope, with various articles of European -manufacture, with which he was highly delighted. The crowd was hardly -to be penetrated, but very orderly: they shouted as we approached; and -nothing seemed to amuse them so much as the feathers of our hats. “Such -cocks!” was literally the expression. For about 200 yards from the -palace (if I can use such a term for the mud buildings of Sinde) there -was a street of armed men, and among them stood thirty or forty persons -with halberds, the foresters or huntsmen of the household. - -~Audience of leave.~ - -In the evening we again visited the Ameer, and found him seated on a -terrace spread with Persian carpets, and surrounded, as before, by his -numerous relatives. He made a long address to me regarding his respect -for the British government, and said that I had of course learned his -sentiments from his vizier. He looked to our Mihmandar from Hydrabad, -who I found had been doing every thing in his power to prevent our -meeting at all, and then changed the conversation. The Ameer asked -innumerable questions about England and its power, remarking that we -were not formerly so military a nation; and he had heard that a few -hundred years ago we went naked and painted our bodies. On our religion -he was very inquisitive; and when I informed him that I had read the -Koran, he made me repeat the “Kuluma,” or creed, in Persian and Arabic, -to his inexpressible delight. He said that our greatness had risen -from a knowledge of mankind, and attending to other people’s concerns -as well as our own. He examined my sword, a small cavalry sabre, and -remarked that it would not do much harm; but I rejoined, that the age -of fighting with this weapon had passed, which drew a shout and a sigh -from many present. There was so much mildness in all that the Ameer -said that I could not believe we were in a Belooche court. He expressed -sorrow that we could not stay a month with him; but since we were -resolved to proceed, we must take his state barge, and the son of his -vizier, to the frontier, and accept the poor hospitality of a Belooche -soldier, meaning himself, so long as we were in the Khyrpoor territory. -I must mention that the hospitality, which he so modestly named, -consisted of eight or ten sheep, with all sorts of provisions for 150 -people daily, and that while at Khyrpoor he sent for our use, twice a -day, a meal of seventy-two dishes. They consisted of pillaos and other -native viands. The cookery was rich, and some of them delicious. They -were served up in silver. We quitted Khyrpoor with regret, after the -attentions which we had received. Before starting, the Ameer and his -family sent to us two daggers, and two beautiful swords with belts -ornamented by large masses of gold. The blade of one of them was valued -at 80_l._ To these were added many cloths and native silks; also a -purse of a thousand rupees, which I did not accept, excusing myself by -the remark that I required nothing to make me remember the kindness of -Meer Roostum Khan. - -~Sindian rule.~ - -Mr. Elphinstone has remarked, “that the chiefs of Sinde appear to be -barbarians of the rudest stamp, without any of the barbarous virtues,” -and I fear that there is too much truth in the character, though the -Khyrpoor family exhibited little to show themselves deserving of the -stigma; but the chiefs of this country live entirely for themselves. -They wallow in wealth, while their people are wretched. Professing an -enthusiastic attachment to the religion of Mahommed, they have not even -a substantial mosque in their territories; and at Hydrabad, where -the town stands on rock, and indeed every where, they pray in temples -of mud, and seem ignorant of elegance or comfort in all that concerns -domestic arrangement. The Beloochees are a particularly savage race of -people, but they are brave barbarians. From childhood they are brought -up in arms; and I have seen some of the sons of chiefs who had not -attained the age of four or five years strutting about with a shield -and a sword of small size, given by the parents to instil into them, -at that early period, the relish for war. This tribe composes but a -small portion of the Sindian population; and while they are execrated -by the peaceable classes of the community for their imperious conduct, -they, on the other hand, hate the princes by whom they are governed. -It would be difficult to conceive a more unpopular rule, with all -classes of their subjects, than that of the Ameers of Sinde: nor is -the feeling disguised; many a fervent hope did we hear expressed, in -every part of the country, that we were the forerunners of conquest, -the advance-guard of a conquering army. The persons of the Ameers are -secure from danger by the number of slaves which they entertain around -their persons. These people are called “Khaskelees,” and enjoy the -confidence of their masters, with a considerable share of power: they -are hereditary slaves, and a distinct class of the community, who marry -only among themselves. - -~Bukkur.~ - -We marched to Bukkur on the morning of the 19th, which is a fortress -fifteen miles from Khyrpoor, situated on an insulated rock of flint -on the Indus, with the town of Roree on one side and Sukkur on -the other. It was not to be supposed that the Ameer would give us -permission to visit this fancied bulwark of his frontier, and I did -not press a demand which I saw was far from agreeable; but we had -good opportunities of examining the place while passing it, both on -shore and on the river. The island is about 800 yards long, of an oval -shape, almost entirely occupied by the fortification, which looks -more European than most Indian works: it is a beautiful object from -the banks of the Indus; its towers are mostly shaded by large full -grown trees, and the tall date drops its weeping leaves on the mosques -and walls. There are several other islets near it, on one of which -stands the shrine of Khaju Khizr, a holy Mahommedan, under a dome that -contributes to the beauty of the scene. The Indus rolls past Bukkur -in two streams, each of 400 yards wide, and the waters lash the rocks -which confine them with noise and violence. During the swell, the -navigation of this part of the river is dangerous, though the boatmen -of Bukkur are both expert and daring. The town of Roree, which faces -Bukkur, stands on a precipice of flint forty feet high, and some of -its houses, which are lofty, overhang the Indus. The inhabitants of -these can draw up water from their windows; but a cut road in the rock -supplies the citizens with this necessary of life without risking -their lives. The opposite bank of Sukkur is not precipitous like that -of Roree. A precious relic, the lock of Mahommed’s hair, enclosed in -a golden box, attracts the Mahommedan pilgrim to Bukkur, though the -inhabitants are chiefly Hindoos. - -~Grave predictions.~ - -On the banks of the Indus we had a curious interview in the evening -after our arrival with the Vizier from Khyrpoor, who had been sent by -Meer Roostum Khan to escort us thus far, and see that we were furnished -with boats. After requesting to be received privately, he renewed -the subject of our first conversation, and said that he had been -instructed by his master to propose a solemn treaty of friendship with -the British government on any terms that might be named: he then ran -over the list of neighbouring states which owed their existence to an -alliance,--the Chief of the Daodpootras, the Rawul of Jaysulmeer, and -the Rajah of Beecaneer, &c. &c. and then concluded with a peroration -full of gravity, that it was foretold by astronomers, and recorded -in his books, that the English would in time possess all India, a -prediction which both Meer Roostum and himself felt satisfied would -come to pass, when the British would ask why the chiefs of Khyrpoor had -not come forward with an offer of allegiance. I tried to remove, but -without effect, the sad prognostications of the minister, and declared -my incompetency to enter on such weighty matters as a treaty between -the states, without authority and before receiving a written statement -under the Ameer’s seal. I said that I would make known the wishes -that had been expressed to my government, which would be gratified to -hear they had such friends, which seemed to please the diplomatist; -he begged that I would bear in mind what had passed, and exacted a -promise that I would write to him when gone, and so water the tree of -friendship, that the object might be ultimately effected,--“for the -stars and heaven proclaimed the fortune of the English!” - -~Amusing incident.~ - -This was not the only incident of interest that occurred at Bukkur: -we had a visit from an Afghan nobleman of rank, who had been on a -mission to the Governor-General from the late Shah Mahmood of Herat, -and was now on his return to his native country, by the way of Sinde -and Mekran, the dissensions of dismembered Cabool preventing his -passing by the usual route. He was one of the finest natives I ever -saw, and had a flowing beard reaching to his waist: he was full of -Calcutta and its wonders, and had adopted many of our customs. He rode -on an English saddle; but said he had just found out that it was partly -made of hog’s skin, and brought it to beg my acceptance of it, for he -dared not take such a thing to his country, and would not again use -it. I civilly declined the offer, and regretted that the information -regarding the materials of the saddle had been traced to me; for, as he -liked our fashions, it was a pity he could not carry them to his own -country. Previous to the envoy’s leaving us, he begged I would give him -an English brush, which I did with pleasure; but I did not consider it -necessary to add that, in addition to the skin of the unclean beast, he -would now have the bristles. He went away in great good humour with his -gift, for which he offered me his palankeen. - -~Mihmandar.~ - -I was sorry that I should have been the means of giving uneasiness to -the Afghan; for it seems that he acquired his knowledge regarding the -construction of his saddle from our Sindian Mihmandar, Tukkee Shah, -who had taunted him with uncleanness. This person was a Syud, one of -the strictest Mahommedans I ever met. He was a son of Meer Ismael -Shah, and of Persian descent. We found him intelligent and learned, -and his polished manners made us regret the loss of so agreeable a -companion. He left us at Bukkur, to take temporary charge of the -Shikarpoor district during the absence of his brother, the Nawab. -The character of this person was singularly disfigured by Mahommedan -bigotry and superstition; while sceptical and dispassionate on all -other topics, there was no miracle too absurd for his credence in -religion. Among other fables, he assured me that when the Imam Hoosein -had been beheaded by the Yezeedees, and a Christian reproached them -for murdering their Prophet, one of them fell on him; the man, -instantly seizing the head of the Imam, placed it on his breast, and -it pronounced the well-known words, “There is no God but one God, and -Mahommed is his prophet;” which immediately silenced this Mahommedan -Judas! - -~Alore, or Arore, the ancient capital.~ - -While at Bukkur, I visited the ruins of Alore, which is said to have -been once the capital of a mighty kingdom, ruled by the Dulora Rae, -and on which Roree, Bukkur, and Sukkur, have risen. It extended from -the ocean to Cashmeer, from Candahar to Kanoje, and was divided into -four vast viceroyalties: the harbour of Diu, in Kattywar, is expressly -mentioned as one of its sea-ports. It sunk under the Mahommedan arms -so early as the seventh century of the Christian era, when subdued -by the lieutenant of the Caliph of Bagdad, Mahommed bin Cassim, -who invaded India, according to a Persian manuscript, in search of -ornaments for the seraglio of the Caliph. - -The particulars of its history are to be found at great length in the -Chuchnama, a history of Sinde in Persian believed to be authentic, and -so called from the ruler of Alore, a Brahmin, by name Duhr bin Chuch. -The ruins of Alore are yet to be discovered in a rocky ridge four miles -south-east of Bukkur, and are now marked by an humble hamlet, with some -ruined tombs. A low bridge with three arches, named the “Bund of Alore -or Arore,” constructed of brick and stone, alone remains of all its -greatness. It is thrown across a valley, which in by-gone years formed -the bed of a branch of the Indus, from which the waters fertilised the -desert, and reached the sea by Omercote and Lucput,--a channel through -which they still find egress in a great inundation. - -The description of the battle which overwhelmed the city of Alore, and -terminated the life and reign of the Dulora Rae, affords some clue to -the manners of the age. The Brahmin appeared with a train of elephants, -on one of which he was seated, with two females of exquisite beauty -to supply him with wine and the betel nut. The Mahommedans, unable to -oppose these animals, retired from the field to provide themselves with -combustibles: they filled their pipes, and returned with them to dart -fire at the elephants, which fled in dismay and disorder[8]. The Raja -fell in the action, and his two virgin daughters, “more beautiful than -the morn,” were despatched to Bagdad as fit ornaments for the seraglio -of the vicegerent of the Prophet. The story of these ladies deserves -mention. On their arrival at the holy city, they averred that the -General had dishonoured them in the fever of victory, and the mandate -for his death was forthwith despatched by the Caliph. The innocent -Moslem, sewed up in a raw hide, was transported from the East to -Arabia; and when his bones were produced in the seraglio, the daughters -of Duhr bin Chuch freely confessed the falsehood of their accusation, -and expressed their readiness to die, having avenged their father’s -murder. They were dragged to death in the streets of Bagdad. - -~Alore the kingdom of Musicanus.~ - -~Larkhanu, of Oxycanus. Minagur as Tatta, not Bukkur.~ - -We have recorded the splendour of Alore, ruled by Brahmins so late as -the seventh century of our era; and history, I think, identifies it -with the kingdom of Musicanus, which Alexander found to be governed -by Brahmins, and the richest and most populous in India. Here it was -that that conqueror built a fort, as “the place was commodiously -situated for bridling the neighbouring nations,” and where Mahommed bin -Cassim a thousand years afterwards subdued the Brahmins who revolted -from the Macedonians. Its prosperity at this late period confirms the -probability of its former wealth. Bukkur is the ancient Munsoora[9], -and has likewise been supposed to be Minagur, which I believe is -erroneous. The second Arrian, in his Periplus, speaks of that city as -the metropolis of Sinde, to which the cargo of the ships was carried -up by the river “from Barbarike, a port in the middle branch of the -Indus.” It has apparently escaped notice, that Minagur is to be -identified with Tatta, as proved by a singular but convincing fact. -The Jhareja Rajpoots of Cutch, who trace their lineage from Tatta, -invariably designate it in these days by the name of Sa-Minagur, of -which Minagur is evidently an abbreviation. I look upon the identity -of Tatta and Minagur as conclusive, though the author of the Periplus -never mentions Pattala. In Reechel we may also have the harbour of -Barbarike. The historians of Alexander do not inform us of the name -of the country of Musicanus, but only of its ruler. The position of -Larkhanu, on the opposite side of the Indus, is well marked as the -country of Oxycanus, which was famed for its fertility, since Alexander -despatched from hence his superannuated soldiers, by the country of the -Archoti and Drangi, to Carmania, or Kerman. The great road westward -branches from Larkhanu, and crosses the mountains to Kelat by the pass -of Bolan, which is the route to Kerman. The modern inhabitants of the -Indus have no traditions of the conquest of the Macedonians to assist -the enquirer in a subject that excites among civilised nations such -intense curiosity. - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[8] It would appear from this, that they smoked in that age: it must -have been _bang_, or hemp, since tobacco was unknown till the discovery -of America. - -[9] Ayeen Acbaree. - - - - -CHAP. IV. - -THE COUNTRY OF BHAWUL KHAN. - - -~Quit Bukkur.~ - -On the 21st of May we set sail from Bukkur, having exchanged our boats -for another description of vessel, called “zohruk,” not in use in -Lower Sinde. They are of an oblong square shape, rounded fore and aft, -and built of the _talee_ tree, clamped with pieces of iron instead of -nails, an operation which is performed with great neatness. Some of the -vessels exceed eighty feet in length, and twenty in breadth. They are -flat-bottomed, and pass quicker through the water than the _doondee_, -though they have but one mast. By the description of boats in which -Alexander transported his cavalry, I understand the “zohruk,” which is -well suited for the transport of troops. Arrian describes it “as of -a round form,” and says that they received no injury on leaving the -Hydaspes, when the long vessels were wrecked. Their peculiar build has -doubtless arisen from the occurrence of such rapids as the Macedonians -experienced at the junction of the Acesines and Hydaspes. - -~Curiosity of the people.~ - -The curiosity of the people on the banks of the Indus was intense. One -man in the crowd demanded that we should stop and show ourselves, -since there had never been a _white-face_ in this country before, and -we were bound to exhibit, from the welcome which we had received: he -had seen Shah Shooja, he said (the ex-king of Cabool), but never an -Englishman. Need I say we gratified him and the crowd, of which he -was the spokesman? “Bismilla,” “in the name of God,” was their usual -exclamation when we appeared, and we daily heard ourselves styled -kings and princes. The ladies were more curious than their husbands. -They wear ear-rings of large dimensions, with turquoises suspended or -fixed to them; for these stones are of little value in the vicinity of -Khorasan. Among the women, I should note the Syudanees, or Bebees, the -female descendants of Mahommed: they go about veiled, or rather with a -long white robe thrown over their entire body, having netted orifices -before the eyes and mouth. They are all beggars, and very vociferous -in their demands for alms: one set of them, (for they go about in -troops,) when they found I did not readily meet their demands, produced -a written paper from the shrine of Lal Shah Baz, at Sehwun, to hasten -my charity! Father Manrique, in his journey by the Indus some centuries -ago, complains “of the frail fair ones” who molested him by the way. -In the present age, the dress of the courtezans, who are to be met in -every place of size in the country, would give a favourable idea of the -wealth of Sinde; and it is one of the few, if not the only, amusements -of the inhabitants to listen to the lascivious songs of these people. -They are a remarkably handsome race, and carry along with them a spirit -of enthusiasm in their performance unknown to the ladies of Hindoostan. - -~Beloochees of Sinde.~ - -Three days after quitting Bukkur, we came in sight of the mountains of -Cutch Gundava, distant about a hundred miles from the right bank of the -Indus; the most remarkable peak was named Gendaree. We here entered a -country inhabited by various Beloochee tribes, long addicted to piracy -and plunder; but their spirit has been destroyed by the growing power -of the Khyrpoor chiefs. They offered no opposition or insult; and many -came to pay us a friendly visit. Their manner of saluting each other, -which indeed prevails among all the Beloochees, is somewhat peculiar. -On approaching, they seize the stranger’s hand, and touch the right -breast with the right shoulder, and the left with the left, and follow -up the words “welcome” with half a dozen such sentences as, “Are you -happy? Is every thing right? Are all well, great and small, children -and horses? You are welcome.” - -~Sinde frontier, farewell letters.~ - -A very few days brought us beyond the reach of these Beloochees, -and the dominions of Sinde; for we anchored thirty miles north of -Subzulcote, the frontier town, on the evening of the 26th, on the -line of boundary between the Khan of the Daoodpootras and the Ameers -of Sinde. Our progress had been exceedingly rapid; for we had a -favourable breeze, and often followed the lesser branches of the Indus -to escape the violence of the stream. The boats sailed with celerity; -for we came one hundred and twenty miles by the course of the river -in six days against the stream. We here had a farewell feast from -the Khyrpoor Ameer and Meer Nusseer Khan, the son of the principal -Ameer, who had shown us marked civility throughout the journey. -After the people had fared sumptuously, our boats were crowded like -sheepfolds. I addressed valedictory letters to both the Ameers and -their chief ministers, besides several replies to other persons; -for the “_cacoethes scribendi_” seemed to have beset the nobles of -the land; and I had received, in one day, no less than six letters. -These productions were full of metaphor and over-strained expressions -of anxiety for our health and safety, with trite sayings about the -advantages of friendship, and a letter being half an interview. There -is no difference between the manners of Europe and Asia so striking -as in correspondence. The natives of the East commit the writing and -diction of their compositions to a native secretary, simply telling him -to write a letter of friendship, congratulation, or whatever may be the -subject, to which he affixes his seal, sometimes without a perusal. -If the signet is not legible, one may often try in vain to find out -his correspondent; for he never names himself in his letter. In my -epistles, I told the Khyrpoor chief that his friendship and kindness -had brought us without an accident, and with unprecedented speed, -against the mighty stream of the Indus; and I thought it as well, for -the edification of the Hydrabad Ameer, to add, that _the Indus was -a navigable river_ from the ocean, and had abundance of water every -where! I did not quit Sinde favourably impressed, either with his -character or policy; but we should not try such a man by an European -standard, and he doubtless opposed our choice of the route by the Indus -on sufficiently good grounds. I parted from our Khyrpoor friends really -with reluctance; for their hospitality and kindness had been great, -and it was with difficulty that I was permitted to reward the boatmen. -The Mihmandar said that he had been ordered to prohibit it; and his -master only desired to please the British Government. This person was -very inferior to our former companion the Syud; but, if less learned -and intelligent, he had the more sterling qualities of sincerity and -honesty: his name was Inayut Khan Ghoree. - -~Sindian escort.~ - -We here dismissed, and with regret, our Sindian escort, which had -followed us from the mouths of the Indus. They seemed to have become -attached to us, and followed us in our walks and rides with unusual -alacrity; as we were leaving, they accompanied us to the water’s -edge, with loud cries of thanks for our kindness and prayers for -our welfare. They consisted of twenty-four men; twelve of whom were -Beloochees and the rest Jokeeas, a tribe of mountaineers near Curachee. -We had not, I am sure, done much to deserve such gratitude; for they -had only received an additional month’s pay (eight rupees each) to -take them back to their country, a distance of three hundred and -fifty miles. Some of them begged to accompany us to Lahore; but, on -the same principle that they had been hired in Sinde, it would be -proper to enlist natives of the new country we were entering, and I -civilly declined their request. These men used to kill game for us; -and were ever ready to anticipate our wishes. Their honesty we found -unimpeachable; and we never lost any thing in our progress through a -strange country, protected by strangers on whom we had no tie, and who -had been brought from the fields to enter our service. - -[Illustration: NATIVES OF SINDE. - -Lith^d. for Burnes’ Travels into Bokhara,--by Day & Haghe Lith^{rs}. to -the King. - -John Murray Albemarle S^t. 1834. - - _On Stone by L. Haghe._ - - _Capt^n. R. M. Grindlay del^t._ -] - -~Fish diet.~ - -~Manners, &c. Costume.~ - -The natives of the neighbouring countries, and the higher class of -people in Sinde, have a singular notion regarding the fish diet of -the inhabitants. They believe it prostrates the understanding; and, -in palliation of ignorance in any one, often plead that “he is but a -fish-eater.” The lower order of the Sindians live entirely on fish and -rice; and the prevailing belief must be of an old date, as they tell -an anecdote of one of the Emperors of Delhi who addressed a stranger -in his court with the question from whence he came; he replied, from -Tatta, and the king turned away his head. The stranger, recollecting -the prejudice against his country, immediately rejoined, that he was -not a “fish-eater.” I am not prepared to state how far a fish diet -may affect the intellect of the Sindian, but I certainly remarked the -prolific nature of the food in the number of children on the banks of -the Indus. The greatest fault which an European would find with the -people of Sinde is their filthy habits. They always wear dark-coloured -garments from religious motives; but the ablutions of the Prophet are -little attended to. People must be in easy circumstances, I believe, or -cease to feel want before they adopt habits of cleanliness. The change -of costume in the people, announced already a change of country. Since -leaving Bukkur, we had met many Afghans and natives of the kingdom -of Cabool. The boots of some of these strangers, made of variegated -leather, ribbed, in some instances, not unlike the skin of the tiger, -formed an extraordinary dress for a long-bearded old man. - -~Quit Sinde. Bhawul Khan’s country~. - -In the evening of the 27th we quitted Sinde, and ascended the river for -a few miles, where we were met by Gholam Kadir Khan, a Nuwab and person -of high rank, who had been sent to welcome us by Bhawul Khan, the chief -of the Daoodpootras, in whose country we had now arrived. He was a -little, pot-bellied old man, with a happy expression of countenance; -and he said that he was sent to communicate the delight with which his -master hailed our approach. He brought a most kind message--that a -fleet of fifteen boats had been collected, and was now in readiness to -convey us through the Daoodpootra country, while the Khan had fitted up -a boat expressly for our accommodation. He brought likewise a purse of -a hundred rupees, which he said he had been desired to send me daily: -this I declined, saying, that money was useless where every necessary -and luxury of life was furnished by his master’s hospitality. We soon -got on easy terms with our new hosts, and weighed anchor next evening -for the frontier village, where we halted. Many Daoodpootras came to -see us; they differ in appearance from the Sindians, and wear turbans -formed of tight and round folds of cloths. - -~Quit the Indus.~ - -On the 30th of May our fleet, now swelled to eighteen boats, quitted -the Indus at Mittuncote, where it receives the united waters of the -Punjab rivers; and, as if to remind us of its magnitude, the stream -was here wider than in any other part of its course, and exceeded 2000 -yards. We took a last farewell of its waters, and entered the Chenab or -Acesines of the Greeks. Alexander sailed down this river to the Indus; -but no tradition of that event is preserved on its banks. The Sindians -point to Cabool as the theatre of his exploits, where Sikunder the -Persian achieved many memorable deeds. In the East, as in the West, -there have not been wanting ages of darkness to draw a mist over truth, -and substitute, in poetical language, the fables of an Eastern country -for one of the most authentic facts in ancient history--the voyage of -Alexander on the Indus. Mittun is a small town, about a mile distant -from the Indus, and occupies, I imagine, the site of one of the Grecian -cities, since the advantage of its position for commerce attracted the -attention of Alexander. - -~Elevated houses of Sinde.~ - -~Effects of the Indus on the climate.~ - -In Lower Sinde the pastoral tribes live in reed houses, and rove from -one place to another. In these parts of the Indus they dwell in -habitations elevated eight or ten feet from the ground, to avoid the -damp and the insects occasioned by it. These are also built of reeds, -and entered by a ladder. They are small neat cottages, and occupied by -wandering tribes, who frequent the banks of the river till the season -of inundation. Herodotus mentions that the Egyptians slept in turrets -during the rise of the Nile. The inhabitants have strange notions -regarding the influence of the Indus on the climate. They believe that -it gives out a perpetual breeze; and they, therefore, seek a habitation -near it, for the heat of Sinde is most oppressive. The father of -history expressed his belief that such also was the case with the Nile; -and it is curious that a similar opinion should be entertained by the -people of Sinde. I can readily understand that a vast volume of running -water would cool the banks of a river: the heat is said to increase on -receding from the Indus. - -~Chenab or Acesines.~ - -We reached Ooch, where the joint streams of the Sutlege and Beas, here -called the Garra, fall into the Chenab. The name of Punjnud, or Five -Rivers, is unknown to the natives; and we now navigated the Chenab -or Acesines of the Greeks, the name of the five rivers being lost in -that of the greater stream. It is curious to observe that this fact -is expressly mentioned by Arrian:--“The Acesines retains its name till -it falls at last into the Indus, after it has received three other -rivers.” The Sutlege, or Hesudrus, is not mentioned by Alexander’s -historians. These united rivers form a noble stream; and the banks of -the Chenab are free from the thick tamarisk jungles of the Indus. They -were studded with innumerable hamlets, particularly towards the Indus; -for the rich pasture attracts the shepherd. - -~Incident.~ - -Our arrival at Ooch had been so much earlier than was anticipated as to -give rise to an incident which might have proved serious. The troops -of Bhawul Khan were encamped on the banks of the river, and in a dusky -day our numerous fleet was mistaken for the Seik army, which had been -threatening to invade his territories. A discharge of a cannon and some -musquetry arrested the progress of our advanced boat. The mistake was -readily discovered, and the chagrin and vexation that followed afforded -us some amusement. I thought that apologies and regrets would never -have ceased. - -~Ooch.~ - -~Arrival of Bhawul Khan.~ - -The town of Ooch stands on a fertile plain at a distance of four miles -from the Acesines, beautifully shaded by trees. It is formed of three -distinct towns, a few hundred yards apart from each other, and each -has been encompassed by a wall of brick, now in ruins. The population -amounts to 20,000. The streets are narrow, and covered with mats as a -protection from the sun; but it is a mean place. We were accommodated -in a garden well stocked with fruit trees and flowers, which was an -agreeable change from our confined boats. When preparing for a journey -to visit the Khan,--who was absent at Dirawul, in the desert,--we were -surprised by the arrival of a messenger, with the information that he -had reached Ooch from a distance of sixty miles, that he might save us -the trouble of coming to him, and evince his respect for the British -Government. The messenger brought us a deer, which the Khan had shot, -and of which he begged our acceptance, with forty vessels of sherbet, -and as many of sweetmeats and preserves; also a bag containing 200 -rupees, which he requested I would distribute in charity, to mark the -joyful event of our arrival. - -~Interview with him.~ - -On the morning of the 3d of June we visited Bhawul Khan, who had -alighted at a large house outside the town, a mile distant: he sent -an escort of his regular troops, with horses, palankeens, and various -other conveyances,--one of which deserves description. It was a sort -of chair, covered with a red canopy of cloth, supported by two horses, -one in front and the other behind, and the most awkward vehicle that -can be imagined; for it could be turned with difficulty, and the -horses did not incline to such a burden. We passed a line of soldiers, -about 600 in number, dressed in uniforms of red, blue, white, and -yellow; and then entered the court yard, under a salute of eighty -guns. The passages were lined with officers and chiefs; and we found -the Khan seated in an area spread with carpets, attended only by about -ten persons: he rose and embraced us. He made particular enquiries -regarding Mr. Elphinstone, who, he said, had been the means of raising -up a sincere and lasting friendship between his family and the British -Government. - -Bhawul Khan is a handsome man, about thirty years of age, somewhat -grave in his demeanour, though most affable and gentlemanlike; during -the interview he held a rosary in his hand, but the telling of the -beads did not interrupt his conversation. He dilated at length on the -honour which Runjeet Sing had had conferred upon him in receiving -presents from the King of Great Britain; nor did he, in any way, -betray his feelings towards the Lahore chief, though they are far from -friendly. The Khan, unlike most natives, seemed to avoid all political -subjects. He produced his matchlock, and explained to us his manner -of hunting deer, his favourite sport; and expressed a strong wish -that we should accompany him to his residence in the desert. We left -him quite charmed with his kindness, and the sincere manner in which -he had shown it. In the evening the Khan sent for our perusal the -testimonials that had been given to his grandfather by Mr. Elphinstone, -which are preserved with great pride and care in the archives of his -government. For my own part, I felt equal satisfaction to find the -English character stand so high in this remote corner of India, and the -just appreciation of the high-minded individual who had been the means -of fixing it. - -~Merchants at Bhawulpoor.~ - -During our stay at Ooch, we were visited by some of the principal -merchants of Bhawulpoor, who had followed the Khan. The intelligence -of these people, and extent of their travels, surprised me. Most -of them had traversed the kingdom of Cabool, and visited Balkh and -Bokhara: some had been as far as Astracan; and they used the names -of these towns with a familiarity as if they had been in India. They -had met Russian merchants at Bokhara, but assured me that they never -came to the eastward of that city. The intervening countries they -represented as perfectly safe, and bestowed the highest commendations -on Dost Mahommed, of Cabool, and the Uzbeks, who encouraged commercial -communication. These merchants are chiefly Hindoos, whose disposition -peculiarly adapts them for the patient and painstaking vocation of a -foreign merchant. Some of them are Jews, who retain the marks of their -nation in all countries and places.[10] - -~History of Ooch.~ - -We continued at Ooch for a week. The place is ancient, and highly -celebrated in the surrounding countries from the tombs of two saints -of Bokhara and Bagdad. The Ghorian emperors expelled the Hindoo Rajas -of Ooch, and consigned the surrounding lands to pious Mahommedans. -The tombs of the two worthies I have named are handsome, and held in -much reverence by the people; they are about five hundred years old, -and tradition is silent regarding the history of the place beyond that -period. The posterity of these saints enjoy both spiritual and temporal -power to the present day; but, instead of ministering to the wants of -the inhabitants, who are needy and poor, they waste their fortunes -in the chase, and retain hounds and horses for their amusement. An -inundation of the Acesines, some years back, swept away one half of the -principal tomb, with a part of the town; and, though the return of the -river to its original bed is attributed to the miraculous interference -of the deceased saint, the people have, as yet, failed to testify their -gratitude by repairing his tomb. The town of Ooch stands on a mound -of earth or clay, like the city of Tatta, which I judge to have been -formed by the ruins of houses. The Chenab has swept away a portion of -the mound; and the section of it which has been thus exposed seems to -support the conjecture which I have stated. - -~Visit from Bhawul Khan.~ - -On the 5th of June we had a visit from Bhawul Khan. He insisted on -coming in person to see us; and sent a large tent to be pitched by our -garden, in which we received him. He sat for about an hour; and put -numerous questions regarding the manufactures of Europe. The chief is -of a mechanical turn of mind; he produced a detonating gun, which had -been made under his directions from an European pattern, and certainly -did credit to the artificer; he had also manufactured the necessary -caps and fulminating powder. He expressed, at this interview, much -satisfaction with the presents which we had sent him; they consisted -of a brace of pistols, a watch, and some other articles. The Khan came -in an open sort of chair, to which we conducted him on his departure. -He was attended by about a thousand persons; and I observed that he -distributed money as he passed along. After the visit, our Mihmandar -brought us presents from the Khan; they consisted of two horses richly -caparisoned with silver and enamel trappings, a hawk, with shawls and -trays of the fabrics made at Bhawulpoor, some of which were very rich; -to these were added a purse of 2000 rupees, and a sum of 200 for the -servants; and, last of all, a beautiful matchlock, which had its value -doubled by the manner in which it was presented. “The Khan,” said the -messenger, “has killed many a deer with this gun; and he begs you will -accept it from him, and, when you use it, remember that Bhawul Khan is -your friend.” - -~Audience of leave.~ - -In the evening we had a parting interview with Bhawul Khan. I gave him -a handsome percussion gun; and assured him, what I felt most sincerely, -that we should long remember his kindness and hospitality. He embraced -us on our leaving him; and intreated us to write to him and command his -services. The courtiers and people were as polite as their chief. - -We left Ooch on the following morning, and pitched our camp at the -junction of the Chenab with the Garra, or united streams of the Beas -and Sutlege. - -~Mountains of Sooliman.~ - -The country about Ooch is flat and exceedingly rich; there are many -signs of inundation between the town and the river. The dust was -most intolerable; but it always cleared up towards evening, and we -saw the sun set in splendour behind the mountains of Sooliman across -the Indus, eighty miles distant. They did not appear high, and were -not distinguished by any remarkable peaks. It is a little below the -latitude of Ooch that they assume a direction parallel to the Indus, -which they afterwards preserve. We lost sight of the range on our -voyage to Mooltan the day after leaving Ooch. - -~Embouchure of the Sutlege.~ - -On the morning of the 7th we passed the mouth of the Sutlege, and -continued our voyage on the Chenab to the frontiers of Bhawul Khan, -which we reached on the evening of the 8th. The Chenab receives the -Sutlege without turmoil, and appears quite as large above as below the -conflux. The waters of either river are to be distinguished some miles -below the junction by their colour: that of the Chenab is reddish; and, -when joined by the Sutlege, the waters of which are pale, the contrast -is remarkable. For some distance the one river keeps the right, and the -other the left, bank; the line of demarcation between the two being -most decided. The nature of the soil through which the Chenab flows, -no doubt, tinges its waters. This peculiarity is well known to the -natives, who speak of the “red water,” but none of the ancient authors -allude to the circumstance. The nature of the country between Ooch and -the Indus has been mistaken, as it is never flooded. Several decayed -canals, if cleared, would yet lead the water of the Chenab to the -Indus, and may account for Major Rennell’s conducting that river into -the great stream, so many miles above the true point of union, until -the geographical error was rectified by the mission to Cabool. - -~The Mihmandar.~ - -We parted with our Mihmandar, Gholam Cadir Khan, before passing into -the Seik territory. We had seen a great deal of him, and found him -well informed on all such subjects as he could be supposed to know. -He carried four or five historical works with him, among which was -the Chuchnamu, or History of Sinde, to which I have alluded, one or -two books on medicine, and some volumes of poetry: yet he made a most -particular request, at our last interview, that I would tell him the -secret of magic, which he was certain we possessed. I assured him of -the error under which he laboured: “But,” said he, “how is it that -you have had a favourable wind ever since I met you, and performed a -twenty days’ voyage in five, when a breath of air does not sometimes -stir in this country for months?” I told him that such was the good -fortune of the English. When the Nawaub found me wanting in the black -art, he whispered that he himself was a dealer in spells and magic; -but very sensibly added, that he had no faith in his own incantations, -high as they stood in the opinion of others; though it was not his -part to say so. He begged I would give him some medicine to prevent -him growing fatter; but neither regular exercise, nor vinegar, which -I prescribed, seemed to suit his taste. What a whimsical creature man -is. In Sinde, every person of rank seeks for rotundity to support his -dignity; and but a few miles from that country, the “martyr to obesity” -is considered unfortunate. - -There is little cordiality subsisting between the Seiks and Bhawul -Khan; and it was with the utmost difficulty that I prevailed on the -Nawaub to let us proceed to the Seik camp, a distance of six miles, -in the boats belonging to his master. “The Seiks,” he said, “are my -master’s enemies, and no boat of ours shall cross their frontier.” -He at last assented, on my becoming answerable for the return of the -vessels. - -~Runjeet Sing’s country.~ - -A few hours’ sail brought us to the place of rendezvous late at night, -and the fires of the soldiers blazing in the darkness only increased -our anxiety to meet our new friends. It was the camp of the party which -had been sent from Lahore to await our arrival, and had long expected -us. Immediately on landing, we were received by Sirdar Lenu Sing, who -came with considerable state on an elephant, and was attended by a -large retinue. The Sirdar was richly dressed, and had a necklace of -emeralds, and armlets studded with diamonds. In one hand he held a bow, -and in the other two Persian letters in silken bags. He congratulated -us, in the name of Maharajah Runjeet Sing, on our arrival, and had been -desired by his Highness to communicate that he was deeply sensible of -the honour conferred upon him by the King of England, and that his army -had been for some time in readiness on the frontier, to chastise the -barbarians of Sinde, who had so long arrested our progress. He then -delivered to me the letters which appointed himself as our Mihmandar, -in conjunction with two other persons; presenting at the same time -a bow, according to the custom of the Seiks. On the ceremony being -terminated, the Sirdar and several others placed bags of money at my -feet, amounting to about 1400 rupees, and then withdrew. - -The first intercourse with a new people can never be destitute of -interest, and the present was far from being so. - -These Seiks are tall and bony men, with a very martial carriage: the -most peculiar part of their dress is a small flat turban, which -becomes them well; they wear long hair, and from the knee downwards -do not cover the leg. When the deputation had withdrawn, an escort of -regular troops attended to receive orders, and sentries were planted -round our camp. It was novel to hear the words of command given in the -French language. - -~Exhibition of the dray horses.~ - -No sooner had the day broke, than the Maharajah’s people evinced much -anxiety to view the dray horses, and we had them landed for exhibition. -Their surprize was extreme; for they were little elephants, said -they, and not horses. Their manes and tails seemed to please, from -their resemblance to the hair of the cow of Thibet; and their colour, -a dappled grey, was considered a great beauty. It was not without -difficulty that I replied to the numerous questions regarding them; -for they believed that the presents of the King of England must be -extraordinary in every way; and for the first time, a dray horse was -expected to gallop, canter, and perform all the evolutions of the -most agile animal. Their astonishment reached its height when the -feet of the horses were examined; and a particular request was made -of me to permit the despatch of one of the shoes to Lahore, as it was -found to weigh 100 rupees, or as much as the four shoes of a horse in -this country. The curiosity was forthwith despatched by express, and -accompanied by the most minute measurement of each of the animals, for -Runjeet Sing’s special information. The manner in which this rarity was -prized, will be afterwards seen, when it is gravely recorded, that the -new moon turned pale with envy on seeing it! - -~Civilities.~ - -Our own comforts were not forgotten among their wonder and admiration, -for the attentions of the people were of the most marked description. -Our Mihmandar said that he had the strictest injunctions regarding -our reception; and he rigidly acted up to the spirit of the following -document, which will best show the distinguished and kind manner we -were treated in the territories of Maharajah Runjeet Sing. - - -~Purwanu of Runjeet Sing.~ - -COPY OF THE MAHARAJAH’S “PURWANU,” OR COMMAND TO HIS OFFICERS. - - “Be it known to Dewan Adjoodia Pursad, Monsieur Chevalier Ventura, and - the great and wise Sirdar Lenu Sing, and Lalla Sawun Mull, Soobadar - of Mooltan, that when Mr. Burnes reaches the frontier, you are - immediately to attend to all his wants, and previously despatch 200 - infantry and the lancers, under Tajee Sing, to Julalpoor, that they - may be ready on his arrival as an honorary escort; and you are at the - same time to make known your own arrival in the neighbourhood. When - Mr. Burnes approaches, you are immediately to despatch an elephant, - with a silver houda, in charge of the Dewan, who is to state that the - animal has been sent for his own express use, and then ask him to be - seated thereon, which will be gratifying, as the friendship between - the states is great. - - “When Mr. Burnes has mounted the elephant, then shall the Sirdar Lenu - Sing, and Sawun Mull, seated on other elephants, approach, and have - an interview with that gentleman, paying him every manner of respect - and attention in their power, and congratulating him in a hundred ways - on his safe arrival from a long and distant journey, distributing at - the same time 225 rupees among the poor. You are then to present a - handsome bow, and each of you eleven gold Venetians, and conduct the - gentleman to the halting-place, and there set before him 1100 rupees, - and fifty jars of sweetmeats. You are then to supply the following - articles: grass, grain, bran, milk, eggs, fowls, sheep (doombus), - curds, vegetables, fruit, roses, spices, water-vessels, beds, and - every other thing that may be necessary, in quantities without bounds, - and be neglectful and dilatory in nothing. When you visit, you are - to parade the two companies and the horse, and salute, and then place - guards according to Mr. Burnes’ pleasure. - - “When you reach Shoojuabad, you are to fire a salute of eleven - guns, and furnish every thing as before directed, and present 1100 - rupees, with sweetmeats and fruits, and attend to every wish that is - expressed. If Mr. Burnes desires to look at the fort of Shoojuabad, - you are to attend on him and show it, and see there is no obstruction, - and that no one even raises his voice. - - “On reaching Mooltan, you are to conduct Mr. Burnes with great - respect, and pitch his camp in whatever garden he shall select; the - Huzooree, the Begee, the Shush Muhl, or the Khass wu Am, or any other. - You are then to present him with a purse of 2500 rupees, and 100 jars - of sweetmeats, and fire a salute of eleven guns from the ramparts of - the fortress. When you have complimented him on his arrival, you are - to suggest for his consideration, whether he would not like to halt at - Mooltan for five or six days after his long journey, and act entirely - as he desires; if he wishes to view the fort, you three persons are - to attend him, and allow no one to make a noise, and take most - particular care that the Nihungs, and such other wrong-headed people, - are kept at a distance. - - “In quitting Mooltan, you are to load 100 camels with provisions for - the supply of Mr. Burnes to Lahore, and Soobadar Sawan Mull is to - attend him in person for the first stage, and after taking leave, - repair to the camp of Monsieur Chevalier Ventura. Sirdar Lenu Sing and - Dewan Adjoodia Pursad, together with Futih Sing Ramgurree, accompanied - by an escort of two companies and the lancers, shall attend Mr. - Burnes, and proceed by easy stages to Lahore, despatching daily - notice of his approach. At Dehra, Syudwulla the Kardar is to present - 1100 rupees, with the usual sweetmeats; and you are all directed to - remember, in every instance, and at all times, the great friendship - which subsists between the two states.” - -There is at all times much display and hyperbole in affairs of this -description throughout the East; but in the present instance it will -be observed, that the Maharajah not only evinced his liberality in -other matters, but in throwing open to our inspection the strong holds -of his country, which can be duly appreciated by those only who have -experienced the extreme jealousy of most Indian governments. The Seik -Sirdars in attendance on us were likewise most communicative; and this -is the more remarkable, as it could not have escaped the Maharajah, -that in taking the unfrequented tract we had followed on the Indus we -were seeking for new information, after the spirit of our country. - - -FOOTNOTE: - -[10] It was my conversation with these men which made me decide on -undertaking the journey to Central Asia, which I afterwards performed. - - - - -CHAPTER V. - - -~Voyage in the Seik country.~ - -By the 12th of June, our preparations for the voyage were completed, -and we again embarked on the Chenab. The boats here were of a very -inferior description, still called “zohruq;” they had no sails, and -hoist a mat on a low mast instead; their waists are scarcely a foot -above water, and those which they could collect for us, were but the -different ferry boats of the river. There is no trade carried on by -water in this country, and there are in consequence no boats. A sail -of a few hours brought us to the ferry opposite Shoojuabad, where we -halted. The country is of the richest and most fertile description, and -its agricultural resources are much increased, by conducting water to -the remoter parts, in large canals and aqueducts. - -~Shoojuabad.~ - -In the evening of the 13th we visited the town of Shoojuabad, which -stands four miles eastward of the river. It is a thriving place, -surrounded by a fine wall of brick, about thirty feet high. The figure -of the place is that of an oblong square, and the wall is strengthened -by octagonal towers, at equal distances. The interior is filled -up with houses, which are built in streets, at right angles to one -another; and a suburb of huts surrounds the walls. Shoojuabad fort -was built by the Nuwab of Mooltan in the year 1808, and the public -spirit of that person raised it, in the course of ten years, to great -opulence. It is situated in a most beautiful country, and is watered -by two spacious canals for many miles, both above and below the town. -It was captured by the Seiks, along with Mooltan, and now forms -the frontier fortress of the Lahore chief. We were accompanied to -Shoojuabad by our Mihmandar, who appeared in state for the occasion; he -sat on an elephant in a chair of silver,--two horses were led before -him, with saddles of red and yellow velvet,--his bow and quiver were -borne by one menial, and his sword by another; while he himself was -decorated with precious jewels. At the palace of the town, we were met -by many of the respectable inhabitants, before whom the “zyafut,” or -money gift, and sweetmeats of the Maharajah, were presented to us. We -afterwards were conducted through the principal street, and welcomed -in a gratifying manner, wherever we went. On quitting the fortress the -garrison fired a salute. - -~Mooltan.~ - -On the 15th we came in sight of the domes of Mooltan, which look well -at a distance; and alighted in the evening at the Hoozooree Bagh, a -spacious garden enclosed by a thin wall of mud, a mile distant from the -city. The ground is laid out in the usual native style; two spacious -walks crossed each other at right angles, and are shaded by large -fruit trees, of the richest foliage. In a bungalow, at the end of one -of these walks, we took up our quarters, and were received by the -authorities of the city in the same hospitable manner as at Shoojuabad. -They brought a purse of 2500 rupees, with 100 vessels of sweetmeats, -and an abundant supply of fruit: we felt happy and gratified at the -change of scene, and civilities of the people. - -The city of Mooltan, is described in Mr. Elphinstone’s work on Cabool, -and it may appear foreign to my purpose to mention it; but his mission -was received here with great jealousy, and not permitted to view the -interior of the town, or the fort. I do not hesitate, therefore, to -add the following particulars, drawn up after a week’s residence. The -city of Mooltan is upwards of three miles in circumference, surrounded -by a dilapidated wall, and overlooked on the north by a fortress of -strength. It contains a population of about 60,000 souls, one third -of whom may be Hindoos; the rest of the population is Mahommedan, for -though it is subject to the Seiks, their number is confined to the -garrison, which does not exceed 500 men. The Afghans have left the -country, since they ceased to govern. Many of the houses evidently -stand on the ruins of others: they are built of burnt brick, and -have flat roofs: they sometimes rise to the height of six stories, -and their loftiness gives a gloomy appearance to the narrow streets. -The inhabitants are chiefly weavers and dyers of cloth. The silk -manufacture of Mooltan is called “kais,” and may be had of all colours, -and from the value of 20 to 120 rupees: it is less delicate in texture -than the “loongees” of Bhawulpoor. Runjeet Sing has with much propriety -encouraged their manufacture, since he captured the city; and by giving -no other cloths at his court, has greatly increased their consumption, -and they are worn as sashes and scarfs by all the Seik Sirdars. They -are also exported to Khorasan and India, and the duties levied are -moderate. To the latter country, the route by Jaysulmeer and Beecaneer -is chosen in preference to that by Sinde, from the trade being on a -more equitable footing. The trade of Mooltan is much the same as at -Bhawulpoor, but is on a larger scale, for it has forty Shroffs, (money -changers) chiefly natives of Shikarpoor. The tombs of Mooltan are -celebrated: one of them, that of Bawulhuq, who flourished upwards of -500 years ago, and was a contemporary of Sadee the Persian poet, is -considered very holy; but its architecture is surpassed by that of his -grandson, Rookn-i-Allum, who reposes under a massy dome sixty feet in -height, which was erected in the year 1323, by the Emperor Tooghluck, -as his own tomb. Its foundation stands on higher ground than the summit -of the fort wall; there is also a Hindoo temple of high antiquity, -called Pyladpooree; mentioned by Thevenot in 1665. - -~Fort of Mooltan.~ - -The fortress of Mooltan merits a more particular description; it stands -on a mound of earth, and is an irregular figure of six sides, the -longest of which (towards the north-west) extends for about 400 yards. -The wall has upwards of thirty towers, and is substantially built of -burnt brick, to the height of forty feet outside; but in the interior, -the space between the ground and its summit does not exceed four or -five feet, and the foundations of some of the buildings overtop the -wall, and are to be seen from the plain below. The interior is filled -with houses, and till its capture by the Seiks in 1818, was peopled, -but the inhabitants are not now permitted to enter, and a few mosques -and cupolas, more substantially built than the other houses, alone -remain among the ruins. The fortress of Mooltan has no ditch; the -nature of the country will not admit of one being constructed; and -Runjeet Sing has hitherto expended great sums without effect. The -inundation of the Chenab, and its canals, together with rain, render -the vicinity of Mooltan a marsh, even in the hot weather, and before -the swell of the river has properly set in, the waters of last year -remain. The walls of the fortress are protected in two places by dams -of earth; the modern fort of Mooltan was built on the site of the old -city, by Moorad Bukhsh, the son of Shah Jehan, about the year 1640, -and it subsequently formed the Jagheer of that prince’s brothers, the -unfortunate Daro Shikoh, and the renowned Aurungzebe. The Afghans -seized it in the time of Ahmed Shah, and the Seiks wrested it from the -Afghans, after many struggles, in 1818. The conduct of its governor -during the siege, deserves mention; when called on to surrender the -keys, and offered considerate treatment, he sent for reply, that they -would be found in his heart, but he would never yield to an infidel; -he perished bravely in the breach. His name, Moozuffur Khan, is now -revered as a saint, and his tomb is placed in one of the holiest -sanctuaries of Mooltan. The Seiks threw down the walls of the fort in -many places, but they have since been thoroughly renewed or repaired; -they are about six feet thick, and could be easily breached from the -mounds that have been left in baking the bricks, which are within -cannon range of the walls. - -~Antiquity of Mooltan supposed Capital of the Malli.~ - -Mooltan is one of the most ancient cities in India. We read of its -capture by Mahommed-bin-Cassim, in the first century of the Hejira, -and its wealth afterwards attracted the Ghiznian, Ghorian, and Moghul -emperors of Hindoostan. But we have little reason to doubt its being -the capital of the Malli of Alexander: Major Rennell has supposed -that metropolis to have been higher up, and nearer the banks of the -Ravee, because Arrian states, that the inhabitants fled across that -river. This is high authority, but Mooltan is styled “Malli than,” or -“Malitharun” the place of the Malli, to this day, and we have no ruins -near Tolumba, the site pointed at by Rennell to fix on as the supposed -capital. It is expressly stated that Alexander crossed the Ravee, -and after capturing two towns, led his forces to the capital city of -the Malli. As the distance from the river is but thirty miles, and -Mooltan is considered a place of high antiquity, I do not see why we -should forsake the modern capital when in search of the ancient: had -we not the earliest assurances of the age of Mooltan, its appearance -would alone indicate it. The houses are piled upon ruins, and the town -stands on a mound of clay, the materials of former habitations which -have gradually crumbled, an infallible proof of antiquity, as I have -remarked of Tatta and Ooch. The late Nawab of Mooltan, in sinking a -well in the city, found a war drum, at a depth of sixty feet from -the surface; and several other articles have been from time to time -collected, but no coins have been hitherto seen. Mooltan may, in some -degree, be considered to answer the description of the Brahmin city -and its castle, which Alexander captured, before attacking the capital -of the Malli; but in that case, we should have no site to fix on as -the capital. The manufactures of Mooltan and Bhawulpoor, the “kais” -and “loungee,” seem to assist in fixing the country of the Malli, -for Quintus Curtius informs us that the ambassadors of the Malli and -Oxydracæ (Mooltan and Ooch) “wore garments of cotton, lawn or muslin -(lineæ vestes), interwoven with gold, and adorned with purple,” and we -may safely translate “lineæ vestes,” into the stuffs of Mooltan and -Bhawulpoor, which are interwoven with gold, and most frequently of a -purple colour. - -~Buildings of Mooltan. Superstitions.~ - -During our stay at Mooltan, we were freely conducted to view the lions -of this decayed Viceroyalty of the Mogul empire. In the interior of the -fort there is the Hindoo temple, before alluded to, which its votaries -believe to be of boundless antiquity, and with it couple the following -tradition. One Hurnakus, a giant, despised God, and worshipped himself; -he desired his son Pylad to follow his steps, and was about to murder -him for his contumacy, when the youth was miraculously saved by an -incarnation of the Deity, who appeared in a shape of half lion and man. -Hurnakus had given out that his death could never be effected in earth -or air, in fire or water, by sword or bow, by night or day; and it -happened without an infringement of these conditions, for Nursingavater -(the name of the incarnation) seized him at dusk, and placing him on -his knee, tore Hurnakus to pieces, and took his son under protection. -This Hindoo temple, which goes by the name of Pyladpooree, is a low -building, supported by wooden pillars, with the idols Hooneeman and -Guneesa as guardians to its portal. It is the only place of Hindoo -worship in Mooltan; we were denied entrance to it. - -There is a shrine of some celebrity, near the walls of Mooltan, -where rest the remains of Shumsi-Tabreezee, a saint from Bagdad, who -is believed to have performed many miracles, and even raised the -dead. This worthy, as the story is told, was flayed alive for his -pretensions. He had long begged his bread in the city, and in his -hunger caught a fish, which he held up to the sun, and brought that -luminary near enough to roast it; this established his memory and -equivocal fame on a firmer basis. The natives to this day attribute the -heat of Mooltan, which is proverbial, to this incident. - -~Reflections.~ - -In the ready belief which the inhabitants of Mooltan grant to such -absurdities, we see little to exalt them in the scale of reasonable -beings; but it seems inherent in the people to propagate and uphold -such delusions, for there are tales equally improbable regarding every -tomb in the city. Rookn-i-alum, the son of Bhawul Huq, removed to his -present sepulchre when dead. - -~Religion of the Seiks.~ - -At Mooltan we first saw the practice of religion amongst the Seiks. -In a veranda of the tomb of Shumsi-Tabreezee, a “Gooroo,” or priest -of that persuasion, had taken up his abode since the conquest of the -city. We found him seated on the ground, with a huge volume in front of -him; and a place covered with cloth, like an altar, at one end of the -apartment: he opened the book at my request, and repeating the words -“wa gooroojee ka futteh,”[11] touched the volume with his forehead, -and all the Seiks in attendance immediately bowed to the ground: he -then read and explained the first passage that he turned up, which was -as follows--“All of you have sinned; endeavour therefore to purify -yourselves: if you neglect the caution, evil will at last overtake -you.” I need hardly mention that the volume was the “Grinth,” or holy -book of the Seiks: their reverence for it amounts to veneration, and -the priest waves a “_choury_,” or a Tibet cow’s tail, over it, as if he -were fanning an emperor. The Gooroo was free from pomp and pride, and -gave a willing explanation to our enquiries: he opened his holy book -to acknowledge the gift of a few rupees, that I made in due form, and -requested my acceptance of some confections in return. - -~Intolerance.~ - -The presence of a Seik priest, and the paraphernalia of his order, -under the roof of a Mahommedan tomb, will furnish a good commentary on -the state of that religion in this country; it is barely tolerated. In -this city, which held for upwards of 800 years, so high a Mahommedan -supremacy, there is now no public “_numaz_;” the true believer dare not -lift his voice in public. The “_Eeds_” and the Mohurum pass without the -usual observances; the “_Ullaho Acbar_” of the priest is never heard; -the mosques are yet frequented, but the pious are reduced to offering -up their orisons in silence. Such has been the state of things since -Mooltan fell, in 1818, and yet the number of Seiks is confined to that -of the garrison, from four to five hundred men. The Mahommedans, -who amount to about 40,000 souls, suffer no other inconvenience from -their new masters, who afford every protection to their trade. The -Seiks excuse themselves, by alleging, that they have not inflicted, -in retribution, one fourth of their own sufferings at the hands of -the Mahommedans. They are, I believe, correct in the averment, but -religious persecution, is always revolting, and exercises a baneful -influence in every age and country. - -~Climate.~ - -The climate of Mooltan differs from that of the countries lower down -the Indus; showers of rain are common at all seasons, and yet the dust -is intolerable. For nine successive evenings, we had a tornado of it -from the westward, with lightning, and distant thunder. Such storms are -said to be frequent; they appear to set in from the Sooliman mountains, -between which and the Indus the sand or dust is raised. The heat and -dust of Mooltan have grown into a proverb, to which have been added, -not unmeritedly, the prevalence of beggars, and the number of the -tombs, in the following Persian couplet:-- - - “Chuhar cheez hust, toohfujat-i-Mooltan. - Gird, guda, gurma wu goristan.” - -As far as I could judge, the satire is just: the dust darkened the sun: -the thermometer rose in June to 100° of Fahrenheit, in a bungalow -artificially cooled: the beggars hunted us every where; and we trod on -the cemeteries of the dead, in whatever direction we rode. - -The country around Mooltan is highly cultivated; the Acesines sends -the water of its inundation to the very walls of the city, and there -is a large canal, that extends it, at other seasons, through Mooltan -itself. The plain that intervenes between the river and city has the -appearance of a rich meadow, and is overgrown with date trees, which -form here a productive source of revenue. It is a popular belief in -the country, that this tree was introduced from Arabia by the army -of Mahommed-bin-Cassim, who brought the fruit as a provision for his -army. It is a curious fact that they are principally found in the track -of that invader, who marched from Alore to Mooltan. If the tradition -be true, the destroying Moslem compensated in some degree for the -evils and scourge of his inroad. There are many ruined hamlets around -Mooltan, the remains of Jagheers, held by the Afghans, but though these -are deserted their inhabitants have only changed their residence, and -occupy houses in the city. - -We removed our camp on the 20th to the banks of the Acesines, which -is four miles distant. The river is about 650 yards wide, but at the -ferry itself, it is expanded to 1000 at this season. We here found ten -boats, laden with mineral salt, from Pind Dadun Khan; they exceeded -eighty feet in length. These boats drop down to Mooltan in twelve days, -from the mines, when fully laden. - -~Quit Mooltan.~ - -~Desert.~ - -We embarked on the 21st of June, on a boat which the Maharajah had -fitted up for our reception with two wooden bungalows; and, along with -the rest of our fleet, prosecuted our voyage. We did not again exchange -our boats, in the way to Lahore. On quitting the ferry at Mooltan, -we came in sight of the desert that lies between the Chenab and the -Indus. It does not commence so low as Ooch, as has been represented in -our maps, but near the latitude of Mooltan, and runs parallel with the -river, at a distance of about two miles, leaving a stripe of cultivated -land. The sand-hills resemble those of the sea shore, and have a scanty -covering of bushes, I cannot call it verdure: they do not exceed twenty -feet in elevation, but from refraction often appeared much higher. -There is a great contrast between the sterile tract, and the champaign -plains of the eastern bank, which we found every where irrigated. The -villages lie at a distance of about two miles from the river, and have -their fields fertilised from canals, by the Persian wheel. On the banks -of the Indus, wells are common, but on the Chenab they are only to be -seen on the verge of canals that branch from it. - -~Peeloo.~ - -There is a shrub called “peeloo[12],” which is to be found in this -neighbourhood, and in all tracts of saline soil that border on the -Indus and Punjab Rivers. It produces a red and white berry, which has -but a poor flavour; the taste of its seeds resembles watercresses: this -is the season of the fruit, and it was exposed for sale in the bazars -of Mooltan. I observed this shrub in greatest abundance in the delta, -and lower parts of Sinde; and, as I am satisfied that it is only to be -found in the particular soil described, I believe we recognise it in -Arrian’s Indian History. “The leaves resemble those of the laurel; they -grow _chiefly_ in places where the tide flows among them, and where -they are again left dry at low water. Their flower is white, and in -shape like a violet, but much excelling it in sweetness.” - -~Seik government.~ - -The arrangements made for our progress through the Seik territories -were very complete. We sailed from sunrise to sunset; and found -thirty or forty villagers alongside by day-break to drag each boat. -The fatigue and exertion which these people underwent in a hot sun -was excessive. When they passed a field of melons, but few were -left to the owner; and many an old lady scolded loudly as they -invaded her property. The people of this country are treated with -little consideration by the government; they are not oppressed, yet -considered its servants since the conquest. But for our interference, -these villagers, who had waded through the water and quicksands, -would have been dismissed empty-handed at night. The bounty of the -Maharajah enabled us daily to entertain sumptuously, with flour and -ghee, 300 hungry villagers; and the Mihmandar further assured me that -due remission would be made for the destruction of the fields in -our progress. While we ourselves advanced by water, the elephants, -camels, and escort seconded our motions on shore; and we always found -them drawn up in parade array on the ground fixed for our night’s -encampment; we always slept on shore. Before dusk we rode out on -elephants to the neighbouring villages, and conversed with the people. -They are lamentably ignorant; and consisted chiefly of Juts, a tribe of -Mahommedans engaged in agriculture. They are not allowed to pray aloud; -but they stimulated each other when pressed in our service by loud -shouts and invocations to Bhawul Huq, the revered saint of Mooltan. - -~Alexander.~ - -As the sun set on the 23d, we moored below the village of Fazil Shah, -in the mouth of the Ravee or Hydraotes, still called Iräotee by the -natives. This was the spot where Alexander of Macedon met his anxious -army after his severe wound, and showed to his troops that his precious -life was yet preserved: but these are events which live only in the -historical works of Europe; they are unknown to the natives of Asia. -I must mention, however, a circumstance corroborative of the Greek -historians,--the fields of beans that I observed on the banks of this -river. They led Alexander, for some time, to mistake the heads of the -Indus for the Nile; and now remain, in a distant age, as proofs of his -journey, and accuracy in the historians of his expedition. - -~Gifts from Lahore.~ - -The intelligence of our arrival in the country of the Seiks soon -reached Lahore; and a pair of gold armlets, set with diamonds and -emeralds, arrived in due course as a gift from the Maharajah to our -Mihmandar. The Lahore chief is munificent in his distribution of -presents among his nobles, though less so than in former years. Grants -of land, and gifts of jewels and money, are yet made. They attest the -wealth of the country, and the sound policy of the prince. - -~Enter the Ravee.~ - -On the 24th we quitted the Acesines, and entered on the navigation of -the Ravee. At the point of union, the former river has a breadth of -three quarters of a mile, though the deep part does not extend for 500 -yards. - -Lieut. Macartney makes mention of a report which he had heard of the -Chenab being fordable in the cold season below this point; but the -natives assured me, that such an occurrence had never happened in the -memory of man, and I found the soundings to exceed twelve feet. The -Chenab, indeed, is only inferior to the Indus; its current is more -rapid than that river, and, with its depressed banks, it yet preserves -every where a depth of two fathoms. The Ravee throws itself into -the Chenab by three mouths, close to each other. This river is very -small, and resembles a canal, rarely exceeding 150 yards in breadth -in any part of its course. Its banks are precipitous, so that it -deepens before it expands. Nothing can exceed the crookedness of its -course, which is a great impediment to navigation, for we often found -ourselves, after half a day’s sail, within two miles of the spot from -which we started. The water of the Ravee is redder than that of the -Chenab. It is fordable in most places for eight months of the year. Its -banks are overgrown with reeds and tamarisk, and for half the distance, -from its estuary to the capital, there is no cultivation. There are no -canals or cuts from this river below Lahore. There is a very extensive -one above that city, which I shall have occasion to mention hereafter. - -~Tolumba.~ - -On the 27th of June we reached the small town of Tolumba, which is -situated in a grove of date trees, nearly three miles south of the -Ravee. Sheriffo Deen, the historian of Timour, informs us that that -conqueror crossed the Ravee at Tolumba on his route to Delhi, so that -we now found ourselves on the track of another invader. - -The Tartar is yet remembered by his offerings at the shrines in this -neighbourhood. Below the town, the Ravee assumes a straight course for -twelve miles, and presents a vista of beautiful scenery, as the banks -are fringed with lofty trees, that overhang the river. The natives -attribute this peculiarity in the Ravee to divine influence. The -clothes of a saint, when bathing, were washed into the stream, and the -eyes of the holy man, when turned in search of them, straightened the -river! - -~Visit to the Hydaspes.~ - -The Hydaspes was now at hand, the spot where it unites with the -Acesines was only forty-five miles distant: here the fleet of Alexander -encountered its disasters in the rapids, and the hordes of Timour were -terrified by the noise of the waters. Much to the surprise of our Seik -friends, who could not comprehend the motives of our curiosity, we set -out on a galloping expedition for the scene of these memorable events, -and found ourselves on the second evening on the banks of the Hydaspes. -Our anxiety to behold the “fabulous Hydaspes” was heightened by the -belief, that this spot, so famous in its ancient history, had never -been visited by an European since the days of the Greeks. The river -joins the Acesines with a murmuring noise, but the velocity of the -current is inconsiderable, and vessels pass it without danger, except -in July and August. There are no eddies or rocks, nor is the channel -confined, but the ancient character is supported by the noise of the -confluence, which is greater than that of any of the other rivers. - -The boatmen at the ferry said, that, during the swell of the river, -they placed themselves under the protection of a saint, whose tomb -stands at the fork of the two rivers. The superstitious reliance -bespeaks danger. We stood on the verge of the river, talking with -the people, till the sun set in the desert westward of us; our Seik -companions in the mean time, bathing in the stream; for, if deprived of -the enjoyment which we derived, they had a compensation in the belief -of performing ablutions at a holy spot, the junction of one river with -another. - -~The Hydaspes.~ - -This river is named Behut or Bedusta, also Jelum, by the people on its -banks, and falls into the Acesines or Chenab in the latitude of 31° -11´ 30´´, forty-five miles north of the town of Tolumba, on the Ravee. -The banks of the Hydaspes coincide but faintly with the description -of Arrian: they do not confine the river in a narrow channel, nor are -there rocks anywhere near to mark the spot where the Greeks retired -with their dismantled fleet. The name of Hydaspes is yet discoverable -in the modern appellation of Bedusta. The Hydaspes is less rapid, and -altogether a smaller stream than the Acesines, being about 500 yards in -breadth at the point of conflux; when joined, these rivers roll on for -a short distance in a channel full a mile in breadth, and about twelve -feet deep. - -~Boats of the Greeks.~ - -The timber of which the boats of the Punjab are constructed is chiefly -floated down by the Hydaspes from the Indian Caucasus, which most -satisfactorily explains the selection of its banks as the site of a -naval arsenal by Alexander in preference to the other rivers, by any of -which he might have reached the Indus without a retrograde movement. -There are but few boats on this river: about fifty are used in the -salt trade at Pind Dadun Khan, some of which carry 500 maunds of salt, -and exceed 100 feet in length, being built like the “Zohruq,” rounded -at both ends. They do not hoist a sail, and often pass the conflux in -safety. We are informed that the war-ships of the Greeks encountered -the greatest difficulties in the navigation of this river, and are -naturally led to attribute the calamities of some of them to the build, -since the provision boats, which are described as of “a round form;” -and, I presume, like the “Zohruq,” escaped uninjured. That Alexander -built the greatest part of his own fleet, is certain, for he commenced -his voyage on the Hydaspes with 800 vessels; and when he first reached -that stream he was entirely destitute of them; so that he ordered the -boats by which he passed the Indus to be broken up and brought by land -across the Doab. We hear likewise of triremes and biremes, that in no -way correspond with the present description of boats on the Indus; from -which it is probable that the round boats which escaped uninjured were -country vessels. - -~Passage of the Hydaspes.~ - -The Hydaspes and Acesines have been forded in the cold season; but -when joined they have never been passed but by boats. Timour, in his -expedition to Delhi, threw a bridge across the conflux at Trimo ferry. -Runjeet Singh swam the Hydaspes at Sahewal with a large body of horse; -but that enterprising chief has crossed the Indus itself above Attok -in the same manner. The merchants from Khorasan travel to India at all -seasons, taking the route by Dera Ismael Khan, Mankere, and the Sandy -Desert, crossing at Trimo, on the road to Toolumba. The country between -these last two places differs from the right bank of the Hydaspes: -destitute of sand hills, it is almost as barren and desert. A sheet -of hard clay, with clumps of tamarisk, _khair_, _lan_, _kejra_, and -such other shrubs as are to be found in the Thurr, or Desert of India, -extends from the Chenab to the Ravee. There is not a blade of grass but -on the banks of the rivers. Water is procurable from wells about thirty -feet deep, but is scarce, and always fetid and noxious, though rarely -salt. - -~Cathæi of Arrian.~ - -The population chiefly consists of the pastoral tribe of Kattia, or -Jun, who are so called from their living an erratic life, “Jun” having -that signification: few of them are found at any distance from the -rivers but in the rainy season. They have immense herds of buffaloes -and camels, from the milk of which they derive sustenance; hardly -cultivating the soil, though some tolerable fields of tobacco, raised -by irrigation, may be seen near their habitations. They are a tall -and handsome race; which may be attributed to a rule among them, -prohibiting marriages before their females attain the age of twenty -years: they believe that the children of an early union, so common -among every other Indian tribe, are puny and unhealthy. These Kattia -are a predatory and warlike race: few of them are free from scars and -wounds. They extend from the banks of the Hydaspes across the deserts -to Delhi, and are the aborigines of this country, in whom, I think, we -recognise the Cathæi of Arrian; as he calls them “a stout people, well -skilled in military affairs.” I am aware that these people have been -supposed to be the Kuttrees or Rajpoots; but their country is further -to the south, and did not occupy this part of India on the Greek -invasion. - -~Ruins of Shorkote.~ - -In the space which intervenes between the Hydaspes and Ravee, and -about equidistant from either river, stand the ruins of Shorkote, near -a small town of that name. They occupy a considerable space, being -much larger than Sehwun, and of the same description; viz., a mound -of earth, surrounded by a brick wall, and so high as to be seen for a -circuit of six or eight miles. The traditions of the people state that -a Hindoo Rajah of the name of Shor ruled in this city, and was attacked -by a king from “Wulayut,” or the countries westward, about 1300 years -ago, and overcome through supernatural means. Shorkote is mentioned by -Timour’s historian; and its locality leads me to fix on it as the place -where Alexander received his wound, for he crossed to the west bank of -the Hydraotes in pursuit of the Malli, who had retired to “a fortified -city not far off,” the walls of which were of brick. The story of the -King of the West is, to say the least of it, a very probable tradition -of Alexander of Macedon. The construction of the place throws some -light on the fortresses which were captured by Alexander. Ancient -cities on the Indus appear to have been mounds of earth surrounded by -brick walls. At Shorcote I had the good fortune to procure a variety of -coins, which I long believed to be Hindoo; but my surmise regarding the -antiquity of the spot received a strong and satisfactory confirmation -through the intelligence of the able secretary to the Asiatic Society -of Bengal,--Mr. James Prinsep. That gentlemen discovered it to be a -Bactrian coin, resembling that of an Appolodotus, and shaped like a -Menander,--two coins of the Bactrian monarchs, found by Colonel J. Tod, -and engraved in the transactions of the Royal Asiatic Society. The -Greek word Bazileos may be read; and I had, therefore, to congratulate -myself on having, in my journey to the Hydaspes, found the first -Grecian relic in the Punjab. - -~Return to the Ravee.~ - -We retraced our steps from this famous river, and saw much of the -Kattia, or Jun tribe. They were greatly surprised by our visit, and -approached in crowds to see us. They live in scattered villages, and -move their houses from place to place. Both men and women were tall and -stout, with sun-burnt complexions. The men allow their hair to grow -in loose tresses over their shoulders: the women have ear-rings of an -enormous size; but the stout and sturdy dames appeared not the least -incumbered from their weight. - -~Birds and reptiles of the Ravee.~ - -We returned to Toolumba on the 1st of July, jaded from the excessive -heat, but highly gratified with our journey. We immediately embarked, -and prosecuted our voyage. During our absence the river had risen two -feet, from a fall of rain in the mountains; but it did not appear much -wider. We saw more aquatic birds in the Ravee than in our whole voyage; -they consisted of cranes, storks, pelicans, ducks, teal, &c. Among the -inhabitants of the river itself, a creature called “bolun” was the most -remarkable. We saw several of them in the mouth of the Ravee, which -were of a black colour, and rolled like the porpoise. The natives class -this fish with the alligator, and say it has four small paws, and a -long snout like a pig. Its habits do not lead it on shore, and it lives -on small fish. The large alligator is unknown here; but the long-nosed -reptile called “ghuryal” abounds. There is said to be a singular -creature, called “thundwa,” in this river, which is described as of -the turtle species, and to have a string in its mouth, by which it can -entangle a man, or even an elephant. It is mentioned in the Shasters as -having seized the elephant of a god. I have not seen the “thundwa,” nor -do I believe the story of it. - -~Table supplies.~ - -Though we had journeyed thus far in the country of the Seiks, we had -not passed a village inhabited by them, or seen any others of the tribe -than were attached to our suite. The country is very poorly peopled, -and without tillage for many miles. The means taken to supply our wants -in the voyage often excited a smile. Every villager in office had been -addressed, and a list of articles which are edible to the “Firingees” -ordered to be collected. Baskets of eggs, kept for weeks in expectation -of our arrival, were daily brought to us, sometimes to the number -of 400 or 500; but they were better adapted for the punishment of a -malefactor in the pillory than the table, and, in a few, chickens were -to be found in the shell! Butchers were brought from Mooltan to supply -our wants: loads of saltpetre were daily sent to cool the wine and -water, and the necessaries and luxuries of life were supplied without -bounds. - -~Heat.~ - -The heat now became oppressive, and gave indication of the monsoon, -according to the natives. In the afternoon of the 3d of July we had -the thermometer so high as 110° at 4 P. M.; and at sunset a storm set -in from the north-west, which was really sublime. Clouds appeared to -approach us for about half an hour, gradually rising from the horizon, -and looking more like mountains in motion. When it came upon us, we -found it to be one of those tornadoes that we experienced near Mooltan, -and unaccompanied by rain. The wind was hot and sultry, and bore -clouds of fine dust along with it. It passed over in an hour, and was -succeeded by vivid flashes of lightning from the same quarter. Six days -after the phenomenon the rain set in with great violence; and till then -we had a continuance of the dust every evening. - -~Arrival of an elephant.~ - -Our Mihmandar waited on us at the village of Cheechawutnee with an -enormous elephant, and said that he had been instructed by the Maharaja -to place it at our disposal, as he feared the native houda did not -suit our taste: he was right in his conjectures, and we appreciated -the civility. The animal was richly caparisoned, and bore a large -chair, ornamented with silver and enamel work, lined with red velvet. -He was accompanied by six of the Maharaja’s own Orderlies, in dresses -of scarlet faced with yellow, which had a good appearance. The Seiks, -in all the various military costumes that they have adopted, never lay -aside the small turban of their tribe; which, I must say, becomes them. - -It was a source of no small amusement to watch the love of gossip among -the natives of our suite. We had a reporter sent purposely from the -Court, who daily despatched an account of our employment and rides: -the news-writer of Mooltan followed us from that city, and every day -transmitted a Gazette; I had also letters from the news-writer at -Lahore, giving me a _précis_ of local news, and asking for a _morceau_ -in return. Our Dewan corresponded with the Chevaliers Ventura and -Allard; and I was somewhat surprized to receive answers to many of my -enquiries regarding the country from the former gentleman, to whom -their subject had been communicated without my knowledge. Nothing, -however, could exceed the politeness of all the people towards us; and -the ready and happy manner they acceded to our wishes made us careful -to wish for any thing. As may be supposed, there were no bounds to -their flattery; and we were daily informed that we were the “second -Alexander,” the “Sikunder sanee,” for having achieved so dangerous a -voyage as the Indus. The polite natives of this quarter view with dread -the barbarity and customs of Sindees and Beloochees. - -~Ruins of Harapa.~ - -About fifty miles eastward of Toolumba, I passed inland for four miles -to examine the ruins of an ancient city, called Harapa. The remains -are extensive, and the place, which has been built of brick, is about -three miles in circumference. There is a ruined citadel on the river -side of the town; but otherwise Harapa is a perfect chaos, and has -not an entire building: the bricks have been removed to build a small -place of the old name hard by. Tradition fixes the fall of Harapa at -the same period as Shorkote (1300 years ago), and the people ascribe -its ruin to the vengeance of God on Harapa, its governor, who claimed -certain privileges on the marriage of every couple in his city, and -in the course of his sensualities, was guilty of incest. At a later -period, Harapa became a Mahommedan town; and there is a tomb of a Saint -of the “faithful,” eighteen feet in length, the assigned, but fabulous, -stature of the deceased. A large stone of annular form, and a huge -black slab of an oval shape, which lie near the grave, are said to -represent the ring and its gem of this departed giant, and to have been -converted from more valuable to their present base materials. Where -such fables are believed, we must cease to hope for even reasonable -fiction. I found some coins in these ruins, both Persian and Hindoo, -but I cannot fix its era from any of them. - -~The inhabitants.~ - -As we ascended the Ravee, and cleared the country of the Kattias, the -population increased, and their hamlets, though small, were numerous. -Crowds of people flocked to the banks of the river as we approached, -and evinced the most intense curiosity to see us. One man would call -out that he was a Syud, another that he was a Zemindar, a third that -he was a Peer, or Saint, and a fourth, that he was a Seik; while the -ladies themselves were not backward in expressing their anxiety for a -sight of us. On such occasions we always moved out of our cabin, or -bungalow; but this ready exhibition only attracted another concourse -of spectators. The notions which they entertained of us were most -extravagant: we were believed to be under the guardian care of two -pigeons, who shaded us from the sun and rain. One individual asked us -seriously to impart to him the secret of converting shreds of onions -into gold ducats, which he had understood we had been practising! - -~A tiger hunt.~ - -The bravery of our Seik friends had been already exhibited to us by -their attacking the wild hog with a sword, on foot; but a nobler -specimen of their courage was displayed in the death of a tiger. We -disturbed the animal in a thicket of tamarisk close to our boats; and -the Mihmandar immediately invited us to see the sport. Mr. Leckie -accompanied the party; but our elephant was not at hand, and I did -not go. The party was entirely composed of horsemen. The monster was -speedily wounded by some one, and several riders were unhorsed from -the fright of their steeds. The Seiks then advanced on foot, sword in -hand, to attack the tiger: he sprang at one man most furiously; and, as -he fixed on his left shoulder, the poor fellow bravely struck his head -by a well-directed blow: the contest was unequal, and the man fell, -horribly lacerated. His comrades instantly ran up, and, with cuts and -wounds, the tiger soon fell. He was a huge animal, and measured ten -feet: his thigh was as large as that of a full-grown man. The coolness -and courage of the Seiks surpass belief; they have great encouragement -from their chiefs. To all my enquiries regarding the unfortunate -man that had been wounded, they replied, with an ostentation of -indifference, that he was but a Seik, would be well rewarded, and had -already received a horse, and his annual pay had been increased an -hundred rupees. The skin, head, and paws of the tiger were immediately -despatched to the Maharaja, whose bounty will be further extended to -the wounded. This encouragement makes these people the bravest of the -Indians. - -~Strange treatment.~ - -The faculty will be surprised at the Seik mode of curing a wound -received from a tiger, at variance as it is with European practices. -They entertain an opinion that, if a person who has been so wounded -be allowed to sleep, he will see the tiger in his dreams, and thus -lose his heart, and inevitably die. They therefore furnish the patient -with the strongest stimulants, and set people to prevent his falling -asleep for five or six days. By that time the wounds assume a certain -appearance; and they then permit the man to rest. In the instance which -I have mentioned, I can answer for the copious use of stimulants, as we -supplied the brandy. - -~Intelligence of a Seik.~ - -~A Cashmere boat.~ - -The intelligence of the Seik Sirdar Senu Sing, our Mihmandar, had, -more than once, arrested my attention. From a perusal of translations, -he had acquired some knowledge of our astronomical system, and of the -astrolabe, with several other such instruments. He expressed his doubts -on some parts of the theory; and asked me to explain the continuance -of the pole star in one place when the earth was said to move so many -miles daily in its orbit round the sun. Among other information that -I was enabled to impart to him, I showed him the thermometer, and -explained the nature of the instrument. He immediately had the whole -particulars committed to writing: and, where such avidity, and so -laudable a thirst for knowledge, were displayed, I could not withhold -making him a present of the instrument. This Sirdar was equally expert -in the martial exercises of his nation: he handled the bow with grace -and dexterity; he was an excellent horseman, and could hit a mark at -full speed; and I have seen him touch the ground with both feet at the -gallop, and regain his seat. I must mention that his curiosity did -not always take a scientific turn; for his wonder had been excited -by our art in preserving meat, fish, &c. A ham, which I showed him, -was calculated to satisfy his doubts; and he was only contented when -he had got a complete recipe for curing it. The Seiks are very fond -of hog; and ham bids fair to be a standing dish in the Punjab. By -the 11th of July we had left the country of the Kattias, and reached -Futtihpoor, where the land is cultivated. Our approach to Lahore seemed -to facilitate every arrangement: a detachment of fifty lancers had been -stationed in the intervening villages, to assemble the inhabitants, -to drag the boats the moment we approached. Our own suite was now -increased to about 500 people; and to a drum and fife, which had -always been with us, a bugle was added. Such dissonance as was now -produced was never heard “at tattoo or reveille o;” and they played at -both hours. We had also a Cashmere boat sent for our accommodation, -called the “purinda” or bird. It was a complete skiff, about sixty -feet long, and pointed at both ends, so that half of the boat did not -even touch the water. I am informed that this style of build, not -unlike the gondola of Venice, is general in the lake of Cashmere. The -crew were natives of that country; and they impelled their vessel by -small green-painted paddles, with which they struck the water in a -peculiar manner. They were very handsome and athletic men, dressed -in red jackets. The boat itself had a square bungalow in the centre, -with a flat roof; where we sat during the cool of the evening. She was -flat-bottomed; and had her planks clamped with iron. Her motion through -the water was tremulous, and by no means agreeable; but the celerity -with which vessels of this kind move is acknowledged. - -~Letter from Lahore.~ - -On the 13th of July, a deputation from the Kardar of Kot Kamalia waited -on us with presents of fruit, &c., and a sum of 1100 rupees. A letter -was brought, at the same time, from the Maharaja, expressive of his -great satisfaction at our approach. The epistle was flowery to a -degree seldom met with even in the Persian language; and filled with -similes about gardens, roses, zephyrs, and fountains. Every word of a -letter which I had addressed to his Highness was declared to be a bud -of everlasting friendship; and every letter of every word was a blown -rose! But the document would require a translation, and that, perhaps, -it does not deserve. - -~Religious wars of the Seiks.~ - -Neither the congratulations nor munificence of the Maharaja could keep -our people well: they were attacked with whitlow; and there were no -less than seven or eight of them laid up at once with that painful -complaint. They themselves ascribed it to the water; but I was rather -disposed to attribute it to a want of it and exercise; for they had had -a voyage of longer duration than a trip from India to England. We now -entered the country of the Seiks. All these people are either soldiers -or husbandmen, like the Romans of old. They were very communicative; -and described with much ardour the campaigns in which they have -fought, and their collision with the bigoted Euzoofzyes across the -Indus. I should hardly expect to be credited if I recorded many of -the circumstances that have been communicated to me, and the number -of people that have fallen in these religious wars. The Euzoofzyes -entertain such hatred for the infidel Seiks, that they often declare -themselves “ghazee,” and devote their lives to their extinction; -believing that the death of one of them is more meritorious than that -of any other unbeliever. As the Seik religion arose some hundred years -after Mahommed, they are not certainly supported by their prophet. To -use an expression of the Seiks, the Euzoofzyes “laugh at death.” It has -been justly remarked, that we know little and care less for the history -of such transactions, when we have no connection with the parties -concerned. - -~Deputation.~ - -In the evening of the 15th we reached Changa, about twenty-five miles -from Lahore, and were received by a deputation from the Maharaja, -consisting of two Seik Sirdars, and Noorodeen Fakeer, of a Mahommedan -family enjoying trust and influence at Court. The meeting, as was -requested, took place on elephants, five of which bore the magnates -and ourselves. Each individual delivered a purse of money in gold and -silver, and, by his Highness’ desire, asked for the health of the King -of England, and the period that had elapsed since we left London: for -the Maharaja, it seemed, believed us to have been deputed from the -royal footstool. I replied as circumstances required. The principal -Seik, by name Sham Sing, presented a bow. The party also produced a -letter from the Maharaja, mentioning that they had been instructed to -congratulate us on our arrival, and use every expression which could be -pleasing to the sense; and a tissue of flattery ensued, which I confess -my inability to describe. - -“The seasons,” said the Fakeer, “have been changed to aid your safe -arrival; and when it should have rained, the sun shines; but it is -the sun of England. You must now consider yourselves at home, and in -a garden, of which you are the roses; that such a friendship had now -grown up between the British and the Seiks, that the inhabitants of -Iran and Room would hear it proclaimed in their distant dominions; -that light had succeeded darkness when we merged from the barbarians -of Sinde, and that its genial influence had changed the bud into the -rose.” I should exhaust a vocabulary if I recorded all his expressions. -I replied as well as I could in the same style, asking after the -Maharaja’s health; and assured the deputation of our satisfaction at -the kindness and attention which we had received in the Seik dominions. -Before taking leave, I showed the party the horses, with which they -were delighted. - -~Escort.~ - -The Sirdars brought an escort of lancers and Seik cavalry: the latter -party were entirely dressed in yellow, and had just returned with Sham -Sing from the campaign against Syud Ahmed, who had long carried on a -fanatical war in this country, and had been lately killed. - -Among the party, a boy was pointed out, who had been nominated to the -command held by his fallen father,--a Seik rule admirably calculated to -feed the military spirit of their nation. We rode among them, evidently -much to their delight, and to our own amusement. The chiefs wore many -valuable jewels; but these ornaments did not become the wrists and -brows of such warriors. - -~Seik ladies.~ - -We had now an opportunity of seeing the Seik ladies, who are not less -peculiar in their appearance than their husbands. They knot the hair -at the crown, and throw a white robe over it, which entirely envelopes -the body, and gives a conical shape to the head. They pull up the hair -so tight to form this knot, that the skin of the forehead is drawn -with it, and the eyebrows are considerably removed from the visual -organ. As may be imagined, this fashion does not improve their personal -appearance, yet it is general among all classes of the females. The -Seik ladies are not so handsome as their husbands; their features are -sharp and regular. They are not confined to their houses as strictly as -the Mahommedan women; for the Seiks, in matrimony as well as religion, -differ widely from the followers of the Prophet. - -In the evening of the 16th, we had a second visit from the deputation -of yesterday, who brought us a sum of 700 rupees, with an announcement -from the Maharaja that that amount had been fixed on as our daily -allowance during our further stay in the Punjab. I accepted the sum, -but did not consider it proper to allow of such wasteful munificence -being in future continued. - -At noon, on the 17th of July, we came in sight of the lofty minarets -of the King’s mosque at Lahore, and might have reached the ancient -capital of the Moghul empire, and the termination of our protracted -voyage; but the ceremonial of our _entrée_ required arrangement, and -we halted three or four miles from the city, at the earnest request of -our conductors. As the sun set, I saw, for the first time, the massy -mountains which encircle Cashmere, clothed in a mantle of white snow. I -felt a nervous sensation of joy as I first gazed on the Himalaya, and -almost forgot the duties I owed to our conductors, in contemplating -these mighty works of nature. - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[11] “May the Gooroo be victorious,” the national war-cry of the Seiks. - -[12] Salvadora Persica. - - - - -CHAP. VI. - -LAHORE. - - -~Enter Lahore.~ - -On the morning of the 18th of June we made our public entrance into -Lahore. The Maharaja’s minister, Uzeez-o-Deen, and Raja Ghoolab Sing, -with the principal men of the state, met us at a distance of three -miles from the city, escorted by a guard of cavalry and a regiment -of infantry. We were introduced to these personages by Captain Wade, -the political agent of government at Lodiana, who had been deputed -to Lahore on the occasion, and was accompanied by Dr. A. Murray. -The sight of these gentlemen, after our long absence from European -society, excited the most pleasurable feelings. Our reception was -also most gratifying, heightened, as it was, by the reflection that -our undertaking had been this day brought to a safe and successful -issue. We alighted at a garden about a mile from Lahore, the residence -of M. Chevalier Allard, whose manners and address were engaging and -gentlemanlike. We here parted with the deputation, after receiving a -large sum of money and a profusion of sweetmeats in the name of the -Maharaja. - -The Chevalier then conducted us to an upper room, where we sat down to -a _déjeûné à la fourchette_ of the richest cookery. - -Another French gentleman, M. Court, was of our party. The scene was -novel to us: the walls and roof of the apartment were entirely inlaid -with small pieces of mirror. Champagne usurped the place of tea and -coffee. M. Allard is the Maharaja’s General of cavalry; and we had -the trumpets of his division in attendance during breakfast. We -continued with our worthy host during the following day, which passed -in preparations for our introduction at Court, which had been fixed for -the 20th instant. - -~Presentation at Court.~ - -About 9 A. M., when the Maharaja had reached the ancient palace that -stands within the walls of Lahore, he sent a deputation of his nobles -to conduct us to Court. All the Sirdars and officers who had been -from time to time sent to us were previously in attendance, besides a -numerous escort; and the pageant was further swelled by a detachment of -Bengal sepoys which Captain Wade had brought from Lodiana. The coach, -which was a handsome vehicle, headed the procession; and in rear of the -dray-horses we ourselves followed on elephants, with the officers of -the Maharaja. We passed close under the walls of the city, between them -and the ditch, and entered Lahore by the palace gate. The streets were -lined with cavalry, artillery, and infantry, all of which saluted as -we passed. The concourse of people was immense; they had principally -seated themselves on the balconies of the houses, and preserved a most -respectful silence. On entering the first court of the palace, we were -received by Raja Dihan Sing, a fine soldierlike looking person, dressed -in armour, by whom we were conducted to the door of the palace. While -stooping to remove my shoes at the threshold, I suddenly found myself -in the arms and tight embrace of a diminutive old-looking man,--the -great Maharaja Runjeet Sing. He was accompanied by two of his sons, who -likewise embraced Mr. Leckie and myself; when the Maharaja conducted -me by the hand to the interior of his court; our reception was of the -most distinguished nature, and he had advanced that distance to do us -honour. We found Captain Wade and Dr. Murray in the Durbar, and all of -us were seated on silver chairs, in front of his Highness. The Maharaja -made various complimentary remarks; asked particularly after the health -of his Majesty the King of Great Britain; and, as we had come from -Bombay, enquired for Sir John Malcolm. When we had been seated a short -time, I informed his Highness that I had brought along with me in -safety to Lahore five horses, which his most gracious Majesty the King -of England had conferred upon him, in consideration of the relations -of amity and concord subsisting between the states; as also a carriage -from the Right Honourable the Governor-general of India, in token of -his Lordship’s esteem. I then added, that the horses were accompanied -by a most friendly letter from his Majesty’s minister for the affairs -of India, which I held in my hand in a bag of cloth of gold, sealed -with the arms of England. On this the Maharaja and his Court, as well -as ourselves, rose up, and his Highness received the letter, and -touched his forehead with the seal. The letter was then handed to his -minister, Uzeez-o-Deen, who read a Persian translation of it in the -presence of the whole Court. The envoys from the surrounding states -were present. The following is a copy of the communication with which -his Majesty had honoured the ruler of Lahore:-- - -~Letter from the King.~ - - COPY OF A LETTER FROM HIS MAJESTY’S MINISTER FOR THE AFFAIRS OF INDIA - TO MAHARAJA RUNJEET SING, DELIVERED TO HIS HIGHNESS AT LAHORE, ON THE - 20TH OF JULY, 1831. - - _To His Highness Maharaja Runjeet Sing, Chief of the Seik Nation, and - Lord of Cashmere._ - - MAHARAJA, - - The King, my most gracious master, has commanded me to express to your - Highness his Majesty’s acknowledgments of your Highness’s attention - in transmitting to his Majesty, by the esteemed and excellent Lord, - Earl, Amherst, the splendid manufacture of your Highness’s subjects of - Cashmere. - - The King, knowing that your Highness is in possession of the most - beautiful horses of the most celebrated breeds of Asia, has thought - that it might be agreeable to your Highness to possess some horses of - the most remarkable breed of Europe; and, in the wish to gratify your - Highness in this matter, has commanded me to select for your Highness - some horses of the gigantic breed which is peculiar to England. - - These horses, selected with care requiring much time, I now send to - your Highness; and as their great weight makes it inexpedient that - they should undergo the fatigue of a long march in a hot climate, I - have directed that they shall be conveyed to your Highness by the - Indus, and such river of the Punjab as may be most easy of navigation. - - The King has given me his most special commands to intimate to your - Highness the sincere satisfaction with which his Majesty has witnessed - the good understanding which has for so many years subsisted, and - which may God ever preserve, between the British Government and your - Highness. - - His Majesty relies with confidence on the continuance of a state - of peace, so beneficial to the subjects of both powers; and his - Majesty earnestly desires that your Highness may live long in health - and honour, extending the blessings of beneficent government to the - nations under your Highness’s rule. - - By the King’s command. - - (Signed) ELLENBOROUGH. - -~Runjeet Sing’s stud.~ - -As the contents of the document were unfolded, the Maharaja gave -evident symptoms of his satisfaction; and when the letter was half -read, he said that he would greet its arrival by a salute; and a peal -of artillery from sixty guns, each firing twenty-one times, announced -to the citizens of Lahore the joy of their King. His Highness then -expressed his intention of viewing the presents; and we accompanied -him. The sight of the horses excited his utmost surprise and wonder, -their size and colour pleased him: he said they were little elephants; -and, as they passed singly before him, he called out to his different -Sirdars and officers, who joined in his admiration. Nothing could -exceed the affability of the Maharaja: he kept up an uninterrupted -conversation for the hour and a half which the interview lasted: he -enquired particularly about the depth of water in the Indus, and the -possibility of navigating it; and put various questions regarding -the people who occupy its banks, and their political and military -importance. I alluded to the riches of Sinde, which seemed to excite -his utmost cupidity. He introduced us to all the representatives of the -neighbouring states, and concluded by asking if we should like to see -his own stud. About thirty horses were immediately brought, and passed -in review order before us. They were caparisoned in the richest and -most superb manner; and some of them were adorned with very valuable -jewels: he named each horse, and described his pedigree and points, as -he was brought up. They were of all countries; and from their necks -being tightly reined up, certainly looked well; but they were not the -stud which one would have expected at Lahore--all the horses appeared -to be under-limbed. The exertion which his Highness underwent seemed to -exhaust him, and we withdrew. Nature has, indeed, been sparing in her -gifts to this personage; and there must be a mighty contrast between -his mind and body. He has lost an eye, is pitted by the small pox, -and his stature does not certainly exceed five feet three inches. He -is entirely free from pomp and show, yet the studied respect of his -Court is remarkable; not an individual spoke without a sign, though the -throng was more like a bazar than the Court of the first native Prince -in these times. - -~Hall of audience.~ - -The hall of audience, in which the interview took place, was built -entirely of marble, and is the work of the Moghul Emperors; part -of the roof was gorgeously decorated by a pavilion of silken cloth -studded with jewels. The Maharaja himself wore a necklace, armlets, and -bracelets of emeralds, some of which were very large. His sword was -mounted with the most precious stones. The nobles were likewise dressed -for the occasion with jewels; and all the Court appeared in yellow, the -favourite colour of the nation, which has a gaudy but striking effect. - -~Military spectacle.~ - -On the following morning, the Maharaja intimated his wish for our -presence at a military review in honour of passing events. We found his -Highness on the parade ground, seated on a terrace, a short distance -from the walls of Lahore. Five regiments of regular infantry were -drawn up in line, three deep. Runjeet requested we would pass down the -line and inspect them. They were dressed in white, with black cross -belts, and bore muskets, the manufacture of Cashmere or Lahore: there -was a mixture of Hindoostanees and Seiks in every corps. After the -inspection, the brigade manœuvred under a native general officer, and -went through its evolutions with an exactness and precision fully -equal to our Indian troops: the words of command were given in French. - -~Conversations.~ - -During the spectacle, his Highness conversed with great fluency, and -asked our opinions on his army and their equipments. His muskets, he -said, cost him seventeen rupees each. He was particularly desirous to -know if a column of British troops could advance against artillery. -From these subjects he passed to that of the revenue of Cashmere; he -had just got thirty-six lacs of rupees, he said, from it this year, -which was an increase of six lacs. “All the people I send to Cashmere,” -continued he, “turn out rascals (haramzada); there is too much pleasure -and enjoyment in that country;” and when he considered the importance -of the place, he believed he must send one of his sons, or go himself. -This is the style of Runjeet Sing’s conversation; but his inquisitive -disposition, and pertinent questions, mark the strength of his -character. He found out, among our establishment, a native of India, -who had been in England, whom he first interrogated in our presence, -and afterwards sent for privately, to know if the wealth and power of -the British nation were as great as had been represented. We left his -Highness, on observing preparations for breakfast,--a meal which he -usually takes in the open air, and in presence of his troops, and even -sometimes on horseback. His passion for riding and performing distant -journeys is great; and, on such occasions, he will take his meal on the -saddle rather than dismount. - -~French officers.~ - -We took up our abode in the garden-house of M. Chevalier Ventura, -another French General, who was absent on the Indus with his legion. -The building had been constructed in the European style; but the -Chevalier has added a terrace, with ninety fountains, to cool the -surrounding atmosphere. Our intercourse with the French officers was -on the most friendly footing; and it continued so during our residence -at Lahore. Among these gentlemen, M. Court struck me as an acute and -well informed person; he is both a geographer and an antiquarian. M. -Court, as well as his brother officers, was formerly in the service of -one of the Persian Princes, and travelled to India as a native, which -gave him an opportunity of acquiring the best information regarding -the intervening countries. He showed me the route from Kermenshah, -by Herat, Candahar, Ghuzni, and Cabool, to Attok, constructed -topographically with great care; and he informed me, at the same time, -that he had been less anxious to obtain a complete map of that part -of Asia, than to ascertain one good route, with its détours, and the -military and statistical resources of the country. The French have much -better information of these countries than ourselves; and M. Court, -in explaining his map to me, pointed out the best routes for infantry -and cavalry. This gentleman has likewise employed a residence of four -years in the Punjab to illustrate its geography; he has encountered -jealousy from Runjeet Sing, but still managed to complete a broad -belt of survey from Attok to the neighbourhood of our own frontier. I -doubt not but the antiquities as well as the geography of the Punjab -will be illustrated by this intelligent gentleman; who, to his honour -be it said, adds to a zeal in the pursuit, the strongest desire to -disseminate his own knowledge and stimulate others. The fruit of M. -Court’s labours, I believe, will, ere long, be given to the public by -the Geographical Society of Paris, or some other of the learned bodies -in that capital. - -~City of Lahore.~ - -In our evening rambles at Lahore, we had many opportunities of viewing -this city. The ancient capital extended from east to west for a -distance of five miles; and had an average breadth of three, as may -be yet traced by the ruins. The mosques and tombs, which have been -more stably built than the houses, remain in the midst of fields -and cultivation as caravansaries for the traveller. The modern city -occupies the western angle of the ancient capital, and is encircled -by a strong wall. The houses are very lofty; and the streets, which -are narrow, offensively filthy, from a gutter that passes through the -centre. The bazars of Lahore do not exhibit much appearance of wealth; -but the commercial influence of the Punjab is to be found at Umritsir, -the modern capital. There are some public buildings within the city -that deserve mention. The King’s mosque is a capacious building of -red sandstone, which had been brought by Aurungzebe from near Delhi. -Its four lofty minarets still stand, but the temple itself has been -converted into a powder magazine. There are two other mosques, with -minarets, to proclaim the falling greatness of the Mahommedan empire; -where the “faithful,” as every where else in the Punjab, must offer up -their prayers in silence. - -~Tomb of Juhangeer.~ - -But the stranger must cross the Ravee to behold the finest ornament of -Lahore--the “Shah Dura,” or tomb of the Emperor Juhangeer, which is a -monument of great beauty. It is a quadrangular building, with a minaret -at each corner, rising to the height of seventy feet. It is built -chiefly of marble and red stone, which are alternately interlaid in all -parts of the building. The sepulchre is of most chaste workmanship, -with its inscriptions and ornaments arranged in beautiful mosaic; -the shading of some roses and other flowers is even preserved by the -different colours of the stone. Two lines of black letters, on a ground -of white marble, announce the name and title of the “Conqueror of -the World,” Juhangeer; and about a hundred different words in Arabic -and Persian, with the single signification of God, are distributed -on different parts of the sepulchre. The floor of the building is -also mosaic. The tomb was formerly covered by a dome; but Bahadoor -Shah threw it down, that the dew and rain of heaven might fall on the -tomb of his grandfather Juhangeer. It is probable that this beautiful -monument will soon be washed into the river Ravee, which is capricious -in its course near Lahore, and has lately overwhelmed a portion of the -garden wall that environs the tomb. - -~Shalimar.~ - -The next, though by no means the least, object of interest at Lahore -is the garden of Shah Jehan; the Shalimar or “house of joy.” It is a -magnificent remnant of Moghul grandeur, about half a mile in length, -with three successive terraces, each above the level of the other. -A canal, which is brought from a great distance, intersects this -beautiful garden, and throws up its water in 450 fountains to cool -the atmosphere. The marble couch of the Emperor yet remains; but the -garden suffered much injury before Runjeet Sing obtained his present -ascendancy. The Maharaja himself has removed some of the marble houses; -but he has had the good taste to replace them, though it be by more -ignoble stone. - -~Conversations of Runjeet Sing.~ - -~Dancing girls.~ - -As we were proceeding one morning to examine the tomb of Juhangeer, -we found Runjeet Sing seated on the plain, and surrounded by his -troops. He sent one of his officers to call us; and we passed about -half an hour with him. He gave us an account of the inroads of the -Afghans into the Punjab, and told us that we now sat on their ground of -encampment. Zuman Shah, the blind king at Lodiana, he said, had thrice -sacked the city of Lahore; he also talked of his designs on India, -and the vicissitudes to which kings are subject. The Maharaja was the -plainest dressed man at his Durbar; his clothes were shabby and worn. -On the evening of the 25th, his Highness gave us a private audience, -in which we saw him to great advantage; for he directed his Court to -withdraw. On our arrival, we found him seated on a chair, with a party -of thirty or forty dancing girls, dressed uniformly in boys’ clothes. -They were mostly natives of Cashmere or the adjacent mountains, on whom -grace and beauty had not been sparingly bestowed. Their figures and -features were small; and their Don Giovanni costume of flowing silk -most becoming, improved as it was by a small bow and quiver in the -hand of each. The “eyes of Cashmere” are celebrated in the poetry of -the East, of which these Dianas now furnished brilliant specimens, in -gems black and bright; disfigured, however, by a kind of sparkling gold -dust glued round each organ. “This,” said Runjeet Sing, “is one of my -regiments (pultuns), but they tell me it is one I cannot discipline;” -a remark which amused us, and mightily pleased the fair. He pointed -out two of the ladies, whom he called the “Commandants” of this arm of -his service, to whom he had given villages, and an allowance of five -and ten rupees a day. He shortly afterwards called for four or five -elephants to take these, his _undisciplined_ troops, home. Runjeet then -commenced on more important subjects; and ran over, among other things, -the whole history of his connexion with the British Government. It had -at first, he said, excited great suspicion and discontent among the -Seik Sirdars; but he himself was satisfied of its advantage from the -outset. Sir John Malcolm, he continued, had first stood his friend in -1805; and Sir Charles Metcalfe had completed his happiness. Sir David -Ochterlony had further cemented the bonds of friendship; and the letter -which I had now delivered to him from the minister of the King of -England partook more of the nature of a treaty than a common epistle, -and had gratified him beyond his powers of expression. He here recurred -to the riches of Sinde, expressing an earnest desire to appropriate -them to his own use; and put the most pointed questions to me regarding -the feelings of Government on such a subject. Runjeet is very fond of -comparing the relative strength of the European nations; and, on this -occasion, he asked whether France or England were the greater power. I -assured him they were both great; but he had only to remember our power -in India to be satisfied of the military character of Britain. “Well, -then,” added he, “what do you think of my French officers?” After -this, he wished to know if I had heard of his campaigns across the -Indus against the “Ghazees,” or fanatics of the Mahommedan religion; -and said that he owed all his successes to the bravery of his nation, -who were very free from prejudice, would carry eight days’ provision -on their backs, dig a well if water were scarce, and build a fort if -circumstances required it; a kind of service which he could not prevail -on the natives of Hindostan to perform. “The bravery of my troops, as -you are aware, conquered Cashmere for me; and how do you think,” said -he, “I dispose of the shawls and productions of that country in the -present glut of trade? I pay my officers and troops with them; and as -I give a Chief, who may be entitled to a balance of 300 rupees, shawls -to the value of 500, he is well pleased, and the state is benefited.” -From the shawls of Cashmere, Runjeet passed to the praises of wine and -strong drinks, of which he is immoderately fond: he begged to know if I -had drank the supply which he had sent me, which, as a recommendation, -he assured us was mixed with pearls and precious gems. This, I should -mention, is a common beverage in the East; a fashion which probably -had its origin in the giver desiring to make the grounds as well -as the contents of the bottle acceptable: pearls would form a good -glass for the butler. We continued, till it was late, conversing with -Runjeet in this desultory manner; when he produced a splendid bow and -quiver, as also a horse richly caparisoned, with a shawl cloth thrown -over his body, a necklace of agate, and a heron’s plume stuck on his -head, saying, “This is one of my riding horses, which I beg you will -accept.” He also gave a similar present to Mr. Leckie; and while -we were looking at the animals, one of the dray horses was brought -forward, dressed out in cloth of gold, and bearing an elephant’s saddle -on his back! I could not suppress a smile at the exhibition. Runjeet -then sprinkled sandal oil and rose water over us with his own hands, -which completed the ceremony. As we were moving, he called us back to -beg that we would attend him early next morning, and he would order a -review of his horse artillery for our amusement. - -~Horse artillery.~ - -We met his Highness at an appointed hour on the parade ground, with -a train of fifty-one pieces of artillery which he had assembled on -the occasion. They were brass 6-pounders, each drawn by six horses. -The command was taken by a native officer, who put them through the -movements of horse artillery, and formed line and column in every -direction. The evolutions were not rapidly performed; but the celerity -was considerable; and no accident in overturning or firing occurred -throughout the morning. There were no waggons in the field, and the -horses and equipments were inferior. The guns, however, were well cast, -and the carriages in good repair: they had been made at Lahore, and -had cost him 1000 rupees each. As the troops were passing in review -order, he asked for our candid opinion regarding the display. “Every -gun which you now see costs me 5000 rupees annually, in the pay of the -officers and men, and in keeping up the horses. I have 100 pieces of -field artillery, exclusive of battering guns and mortars, and my French -officers tell me I have too many. I can reduce their number,” added -he, “but it is a difficult matter to increase it.” We had not sat much -longer with him, when he said, “You must breakfast with me;” an honour -with which we would have rather dispensed, but there was no retreating. -The chairs were removed, and a velvet cushion was placed for each of -us in front of the Maharaja, and the simple fare of this potentate -produced. It consisted of various kinds of rice, with milk, sugar, and -some preserved mangoes; all of which were served up in leaves sewed -together. Runjeet selected the choicest parts, and handed them to us -himself; politeness compelled us to keep him company. The thumb and -fingers are certainly a poor substitute for the knife and fork. When -breakfast was finished, Runjeet asked if we would accept a dinner from -him; and immediately gave instructions for its preparation, and we had -it sent to us in the evening. It was much the same as the breakfast, -and served up in a similar manner. - -Runjeet Sing is, in every respect, an extraordinary character. I -have heard his French officers observe that he has no equal from -Constantinople to India; and all of them have seen the intermediate -powers. - -~Character of Runjeet Sing.~ - -We continued at Lahore as the guests of the Maharaja till the 16th of -August, and had many opportunities of meeting him; but I do not think -I can add any thing to the history of his rise, drawn up by the late -Captain William Murray, Political agent at Ambala. The most creditable -trait in Runjeet’s character is his humanity; he has never been known -to punish a criminal with death since his accession to power; he does -not hesitate to mutilate a malefactor, but usually banishes him to -the hills. Cunning and conciliation have been the two great weapons -of his diplomacy. It is too probable, that the career of this chief -is nearly at an end; his chest is contracted, his back is bent, his -limbs withered, and it is not likely that he can long bear up against a -nightly dose of spirits more ardent than the strongest brandy. - -~Audience of leave. Precious stones.~ - -On the 16th of August we had our audience of leave with Runjeet Sing, -but my fellow traveller was unable to attend from indisposition. -Captain Wade accompanied me. He received us in an eccentric manner, -under an open gateway leading to the palace. A piece of white cloth -was spread under our chairs instead of a carpet, and there were but -few of his Court in attendance. In compliance with a wish that I had -expressed, he produced the “Koh-i-noor” or mountain of light, one of -the largest diamonds in the world, which he had extorted from Shah -Shooja, the ex-King of Cabool. Nothing can be imagined more superb than -this stone; it is of the finest water, and about half the size of an -egg. Its weight amounts to 3-1/2 rupees, and if such a jewel is to be -valued, I am informed it is worth 3-1/2 millions of money, but this -is a gross exaggeration. The “Koh-i-noor” is set as an armlet, with a -diamond on each side about the size of a sparrow’s egg. - -Runjeet seemed anxious to display his jewels before we left him; and -with the diamond was brought a large ruby, weighing 14 rupees. It had -the names of several kings engraven on it, among which were those -of Aurungzebe and Ahmed Shah. There was also a topaz of great size, -weighing 11 rupees, and as large as half a billiard ball: Runjeet had -purchased it for 20,000 rupees. - -~Presents.~ - -His Highness, after assuring us of his satisfaction at a communication -having been opened with so remote a quarter of India as Bombay, as it -cemented his friendship with the British Government, then invested me -with a string of pearls: he placed a diamond ring on one hand, and an -emerald one on the other, and handed me four other jewels of emeralds -and pearls. He then girt round my waist a superb sword, adorned with a -knot of pearls. A horse was next brought, richly dressed out with cloth -of gold, and golden ornaments on the bridle and saddle. A “khilut,” or -robe of honour, composed of a shawl dress, and many other manufactures -of Cashmere were then delivered to me, as well as presents of a similar -nature for Mr. Leckie. Three of our attendants were likewise favoured -by his Highness; and in his munificence, he sent a sum of 2000 rupees -for distribution among the remainder of the suite. Maharaja Runjeet -then produced a letter in reply to the one which I had brought from his -Majesty’s minister, which he requested I would deliver. It was put up -in a silken bag, and two small pearls were suspended from the strings -that fastened it. It occupied a roll from four to five feet long. The -following is a verbal translation of the letter; nor will it escape -observation, that, with much which is flowery and in bad taste to a -European, there is some display of sterling sense and judgment. The -titles which I had the honour to receive from his Highness will not -pass without a smile. - - _Copy of a Letter from Maharaja Runjeet Sing, to the address of his - Majesty’s Minister for the Affairs of India. Delivered on the audience - of Leave._ - -~Runjeet Sing’s reply.~ - -“At a happy moment, when the balmy zephyrs of spring were blowing from -the garden of friendship, and wafting to my senses the grateful perfume -of its flowers, your Excellency’s epistle, every letter of which is a -new-blown rose on the branch of regard, and every word a blooming fruit -on the tree of esteem, was delivered to me by Mr. Burnes and Mr. John -Leckie, who were appointed to convey to me some horses of superior -quality, of singular beauty, of alpine form, and elephantine stature, -admirable even in their own country, which had been sent as a present -to me by his Majesty the King of Great Britain, together with a large -and elegant carriage. These presents, owing to the care of the above -gentlemen, have arrived by way of the river Sinde in perfect safety, -and have been delivered to me, together with your Excellency’s letter, -which breathes the spirit of friendship, by that _nightingale of the -garden of eloquence, that bird of the winged words of sweet discourse, -Mr. Burnes_; and the receipt of them has caused a thousand emotions of -pleasure and delight to arise in my breast. - -“The information communicated in your Excellency’s letter, that his -gracious Majesty the King of England had been much pleased with the -shawl tent of Cashmere manufacture, which I had the honour to forward -as a present, has given me the highest satisfaction; but my heart is so -overflowing with feelings of pleasure and gratitude for all these marks -of kindness and attention on the part of his Majesty, that I find it -impossible to give them vent in adequate expressions. - -“By the favour of Sri Akal Poorukh Jee[13], there are in my stables -valuable and high-bred horses from the different districts of -Hindoostan, from Turkistan, and Persia; but none of them will bear -comparison with those presented to me by the King through your -Excellency; for these animals, in beauty, stature, and disposition, -surpass the horses of every city and every country in the world. On -beholding their shoes, _the new moon turned pale with envy, and nearly -disappeared from the sky_. Such horses, the eye of the sun has never -before beheld in his course through the universe. Unable to bestow -upon them in writing the praises that they merit, I am compelled to -throw the reins on the neck of the steed of description, and relinquish -the pursuit. - -“Your Excellency has stated, that you were directed by his Majesty -to communicate to me his earnest desire for the permanence of the -friendship which has so long existed between the two states, and which -has been so conducive to the comfort and happiness of the subjects of -both. Your Excellency has further observed, that his Majesty hopes that -I may live long in health and honour to rule and protect the people -of this country. I beg that you will assure his Majesty, that such -sentiments correspond entirely with those which I entertain, both with -respect to our existing relations, and to the happiness and prosperity -of his Majesty and his subjects. - -“The foundations of friendship were first established between the two -states through the instrumentality of Sir C. T. Metcalfe, a gentleman -endowed with every excellence of character; and after that period, in -consequence of the long residence of Sir C. T. Metcalfe in Hindostan, -the edifice of mutual amity and good understanding was strengthened and -completed by his attention and exertions. - -“When the Right Honourable the Earl of Amherst came on a visit to -Hindoostan and the Simla Hills, the ceremonials and practices of -reciprocal friendship were so well observed, that the fame of it was -diffused throughout the whole country. - -“Captain Wade, since his appointment at Lodiana, has ever been -solicitous to omit nothing which was calculated to augment and -strengthen the feeling of unanimity between the two powers. - -“The Right Honourable Lord William Bentinck, the present -Governor-general, having arrived some time since at Simla, I took the -opportunity of deputing respectable and confidential officers, in -company with Captain Wade, on a complimentary mission to his Lordship, -with a letter enquiring after his health. These officers, after having -had the honour of an interview, were dismissed by his Lordship with -marks of great distinction and honour. On their return, they related -to me the particulars of the gracious reception they had met with, -the excellent qualities of his Lordship, and also the sentiments of -friendship and regard which he had expressed towards this state. These -circumstances were very gratifying to my feelings. Through the favour -of the Almighty, the present Governor-general is, in every respect, -disposed, like the Earl of Amherst, to elevate and maintain the -standard of harmony and concord subsisting between the two Governments; -nay, from his excellent qualities, I am disposed to cherish the -hope that he will be even more attentive to this subject than his -predecessor. Mr. Burnes and Mr. John Leckie, before mentioned as the -bearers of the presents from his Majesty, have extremely gratified me -with their friendly and agreeable conversation. The mark of kindness -and attention on the part of the British Government, evinced by the -deputation of these officers, has increased my friendship and regard -for it a hundredfold; a circumstance which, having become known -throughout the country, has occasioned great satisfaction and pleasure -to the friends and wellwishers of both states, and a proportionate -regret in the hearts of their enemies. All these particulars I hope you -will bring to the notice of his gracious Majesty. - -“I am confident, that, through the favour of God, our friendship and -attachment, which are evident as the noonday sun, will always continue -firm, and be daily increased under the auspices of his Majesty. - -“I have dismissed Mr. Burnes and Mr. John Leckie with this friendly -letter in reply to your Excellency’s, and hope that these officers -will, after their safe arrival at their destination, fully communicate -to you the sentiments of regard and esteem which I entertain for your -Excellency. In conclusion, I trust that, knowing me always to be -anxious to receive the happy intelligence of the health and prosperity -of his Majesty, and also of your own, your Excellency will continue to -gratify me by the transmission of letters, both from the King and from -yourself.” - - (_True translation._) - - (Signed) E. RAVENSHAW, - - Depy. Pol. Secretary. - - -~Departure from Lahore.~ - -On presenting this letter his Highness embraced me; and begged I would -convey his high sentiments of regard to the Governor-general of India, -I then took leave of Maharaja Runjeet Sing, and quitted his capital of -Lahore the same evening in prosecution of my journey to Simla, on the -Himalaya Mountains, where I had been summoned to give an account of my -mission to Lord William Bentinck, then residing in that part of India. - -~Umritsir; its temple.~ - -We reached Umritsir, the holy city of the Seiks, on the following -morning,--a distance of thirty miles. The intervening country, called -Manja, is richly cultivated. The great canal, or “nuhr,” which was -cut from the Ravee by one of the Emperors of Hindostan, and brings the -water for a distance of eighty miles, passes by Umritsir, and runs -parallel with the Lahore road. It is very shallow, and sometimes does -not exceed a width of eight feet: small boats still navigate it. We -halted a day at Umritsir, to view the rites of Seik holiness; and our -curiosity was amply gratified. In the evening we were conducted by the -chief men of the city to the national temple. It stands in the centre -of a lake, and is a handsome building covered with burnished gold. -After making the circuit of it, we entered, and made an offering to -the “Grinth Sahib,” or holy book, which lay open before a priest, who -fanned it with the tail of a Tibet cow, to keep away impurity, and to -add to its consequence. When we were seated, a Seik arose and addressed -the assembled multitude; he invoked Gooroo Govind Sing, and every one -joined hands;--he went on to say, that all which the Seiks enjoyed on -earth was from the Gooroo’s bounty; and that the strangers now present -had come from a great distance, and brought presents from the King of -England, to cement friendship, and now appeared in this temple with an -offering of 250 rupees. The money was then placed on the Grinth, and -a universal shout of “Wagroojee ka futtih!” closed the oration. We -were then clad in Cashmere shawls; and, before departing, I begged the -orator to declare our desire for a continuance of friendship with the -Seik nation, which brought a second shout of “Wagroojee ka futtih!” -“Khalsajee ka futtih!” May the Seik religion prosper! From the great -temple, we were taken to the Acali boonga, or house of the Immortals, -and made a similar offering. We were not allowed to enter this spot, -for the Acalis or Nihungs are a wrong-headed set of fanatics, not to -be trusted. In reply to the offering, the priest sent us some sugar. -The Acalis are clothed in turbans of blue cloth, which run into a peak: -on this they carry several round pieces of iron, weapons of defence, -which are used like the quoit. These bigots are constantly molesting -the community by abuse and insult, or even violence; a week does not -pass in the Punjab without a life being lost: but Runjeet suppresses -their excesses with a firm and determined hand, though they form a -portion of the establishment in a religion of which he himself is a -strict observer. He has attached some of the greatest offenders to his -battalions, and banished others. Our conductor, Desa Sing Majeetia, -father of our Mihmandar, a Seik of the confederacy, and a kind old man, -was very solicitous about our safety, and led us by the hand, which he -grasped firmly, through the assembled crowd. From the temple we made -the tour of Umritsir, which is a larger city than Lahore. This place is -the great emporium of commerce between India and Cabool. The traders -are chiefly Hindoos, before whose door one wonders at the utility of -large blocks of red rock salt being placed, till informed that they -are for the use of the sacred city cows, who lick and relish them. In -our way home we visited the Rambagh, the favourite residence of the -Maharaja when at Umritsir. His passion for military works also shows -itself here, and he has surrounded a pleasure garden by a massy mound -of mud, which he is now strengthening by a ditch. - -~Beas or Hyphasis.~ - -At a distance of twenty-three miles from Umritsir, we came on the -Beas or Hyphasis of Alexander. The country is varied by trees, but -not rich, and the soil is gravelly. On the 21st we crossed the Beas, -at Julalabad, where it was swollen to a mile in width from rain. Its -current exceeded in rapidity five miles an hour; we were nearly two -hours in crossing, and landed about two miles below the point from -which we started. The greatest depth was eighteen feet. The boats used -in this river are mere rafts with a prow; they bend frightfully, and -are very unsafe; yet elephants, horses, cattle, and guns are conveyed -across on them. We passed in safety, but an accident, which might have -proved serious, befel us in one of the small channels of this river. It -was about thirty yards wide, and eighteen feet deep, and we attempted -the passage on an elephant. No sooner had the animal got out of his -depth, than he rolled over, and precipitated Mr. Leckie and myself -head-foremost into the water, wheeling round at the same time to gain -the bank he had quitted; Dr. Murray alone retained his seat: but we -were not long in regaining terra firma, without any other inconvenience -than a ducking. We did not again attempt the passage on an elephant, -but crossed on inflated buffalo skins supporting a framework. - -~Kuppertulla. Seik Chief.~ - -~Fête.~ - -Our halting place was at Kuppertulla, ten miles from the Beas, the -estate of Futtih Sing Aloowala, one of the Seik chiefs, who was present -with Lord Lake’s army in 1805, when encamped in this vicinity. He is -yet a young man. He received us with great respect and kindness, and -sent his two sons to meet us as we approached. He came himself in the -evening on a visit, and on the following day, when we returned it, he -gave us a grand fête in his garden house, which was illuminated. The -display of fireworks was varied, and we viewed it with advantage from a -terrace. Futtih Sing is the person whom Sir John Malcolm describes in -his “Sketch of the Seiks” as requiring his dram, and years have not -diminished his taste for liquor. Immediately we were seated he produced -his bottle, drank freely himself, and pressed it much upon us; it was -too potent for an Englishman, but he assured us, that whatever quantity -we drank, it would never occasion thirst. We filled a bumper to the -health of the Sirdar and his family, and were about to withdraw, when -he produced most expensive presents, which could not in any way be -refused; he gave me a string of pearls, and some other jewels, with a -sword, a horse, and several shawls. Futtih Sing is an uncouth looking -person, but he has the manners of a soldier. His income amounts to -about four lacs of rupees annually, and he lives up to it, having a -strong passion for house building. Besides a board of works in two of -his gardens, he was now constructing a house in the English style, but -has sensibly added a suite of rooms under ground for the hot season. -When we left Futtih Sing, he urgently requested that we would deliver -his sincere sentiments of regard to his old friend Sir John Malcolm. - -~Doab of the Sutlege.~ - -We made three marches from Kuppertulla to Fulour, on the banks of the -Sutlege, a distance of thirty-six miles, passing the towns of Jullinder -and Jumsheer. The former place is large, and was at one time inhabited -by Afghans. It is surrounded by a brick wall, and the streets are -paved with the same material. Jullinder gives its name to the “Doab,” -or country between the Beas and Sutlege, while the other Doabs are -named by compound words, formed by contracting the names of the rivers. -Between the Chenab and Behut, we have the Chenut; between the Ravee and -Chenab, the Reechna; and between the Beas and Ravee, the Barree. From -Jullinder to the banks of the Sutlege, the country is highly cultivated -and well peopled. All the villages are surrounded by mud walls, and -many of them have ditches to bespeak the once unsettled state of this -land. The houses are constructed of wood, with flat roofs covered over -by mud, and have a hovel-like appearance. - -~Fulour.~ - -The town of Fulour, on the banks of the Sutlege, is the frontier post -of the Lahore Chief, and here we left our escort and Seik friends, -who had accompanied us from Mooltan. We distributed cloths to the -commissioned and non-commissioned officers, and a sum of 1000 rupees -among the men, which gratified all parties. The Maharaja continued -his munificence to the last, and, before crossing the Sutlege, he had -sent us no less than 24,000 rupees in cash, though we had declined -to receive the sum of 700 rupees, which had been fixed for our daily -allowance after reaching Lahore. - -~Antiquities.~ - -Before I finally quit the Punjab, I must not omit a few particulars -regarding its antiquities, which must ever attract attention. It seems -certain, that Alexander the Great visited Lahore, and to this day the -remains of a city answering to Singala, with a lake in the vicinity, -are to be seen S.E. of the capital. The tope of Manikyala, first -described by Mr. Elphinstone, and lately examined by M. Ventura, has -excited considerable interest in the East. The French gentlemen were of -opinion, that these remains are of an older date than the expedition of -Alexander, for the coins have a figure not unlike Neptune’s trident, -which is to be seen on the stones at Persepolis. In my progress through -the Punjab, I was not successful in procuring a coin of Alexander, -nor any other than the Bactrian one which I have described; nor have -any of the French gentlemen, with all their opportunities, been so -fortunate. I am happy, however, in being able to state the existence -of two other buildings like the “Tope” of Manikyala, which have been -lately discovered among the mountains, westward of the Indus, in the -country of the Eusoofzyes. The opening of these may throw light on the -interesting subject of Punjab antiquities.[14] By the natives of this -country, the most ancient place is considered to be Seealcote, which -lies upwards of forty miles north of Lahore. It is said to be mentioned -in the Persian Sikunder Namu. - -~Cross the Sutlege.~ - -At noon, on the 26th of August, we left Fulour and marched to Lodiana, -crossing the river Sutlege, or Hesudrus of antiquity. It is yet called -Shittoodur or the Hundred Rivers by the natives, from the number of -channels in which it divides itself. Where we passed, its breadth did -not exceed 700 yards, though it had been swollen two days before our -arrival. The greatest depth of soundings was eighteen feet, but the -average was twelve. It is a less rapid river than the Beas. The waters -of the Sutlege are colder than those of any of the Punjab rivers, -probably from its great length of course, and running so far among -snowy mountains. This river is variable in its channel, and often -deserts one bank for the other. The country between it and the British -Cantonment of Lodiana, is intersected by nullas, one of which, that -runs past the camp, formed the bed of the Sutlege fifty years ago. -This river is generally fordable after November. Lord Lake’s army -crossed it in 1805, two miles above Lodiana; but the fords vary, and -the watermen look for them annually before people attempt to cross, as -there are many quicksands. When the Beas falls into the Sutlege, the -united stream, called Garra, is no longer fordable. The boats of the -Sutlege are of the same description as those on the Beas: there are -seventeen of them at the Fulour ferry. The country between the Sutlege -and Lodiana is very low, which I observed to be a characteristic of the -left bank of this river, till it meets the mountains. One would expect -to find this depressed tract of ground alluvial, but it is sandy. - -~Exiled Kings of Cabool.~ - -At Lodiana, we met two individuals, who have exercised an influence -on the Eastern world, now pensioners of the British, the ex-Kings of -Cabool, Shah Zuman, and Shah Shooja-ool-Moolk. The ceremonial of our -introduction to Shah Shooja corresponded nearly with that described -by Mr. Elphinstone; for, in his exile, this fallen monarch has not -relinquished the forms of royalty. The officers of his court still -appear in the same fanciful caps, and on a signal given in Turkish, -(_ghachan_, begone,) the guards run out of the presence, making a noise -with their high-heeled boots. The person of the Shah himself has been -so correctly described, that I have little to say on that subject. -In his misfortunes, he retains the same dignity and prepossessing -demeanour as when king. We found him seated on a chair in a shady part -of his garden, and stood during the interview. He has become somewhat -corpulent, and his expression is melancholy; but he talked much, and -with great affability. He made many enquiries regarding Sinde, and the -countries on the Indus, and said, that “he had rebuked the Ameers for -their suspicion and jealousy of our intentions in coming to Lahore. -Had I but my kingdom,” continued he, “how glad should I be to see an -Englishman at Cabool, and to open the road between Europe and India.” -The Shah then touched upon his own affairs, and spoke with ardent -expectations of being soon able to retrieve his fortunes. In reply to -one of his questions, I informed him that he had many well-wishers in -Sinde. “Ah!” said he, “these sort of people are as bad as enemies; -they profess strong friendship and allegiance, but they render me no -assistance. They forget that I have a claim on them for two crores of -rupees, the arrears of tribute.” - -~Reflections.~ - -Shah Shooja was plainly dressed in a tunic of pink gauze, with a green -velvet cap, something like a coronet, from which a few emeralds were -suspended. There is much room for reflection on the vicissitudes of -human life while visiting such a person. From what I learn, I do not -believe the Shah possesses sufficient energy to seat himself on the -throne of Cabool; and that if he did regain it, he has not the tact to -discharge the duties of so difficult a situation. - -~Shah Zuman.~ - -The brother of Shah Shooja, Shah Zuman, is an object of great -compassion, from his age, appearance, and want of sight. We also -visited him, and found him seated in a hall with but one attendant, -who announced our being present, when the Shah looked up and bade us -“Welcome.” He is stone blind, and cannot distinguish day from night; he -was as talkative as his brother, and lamented that he could not pass -the remainder of his days in his native land, where the heat was less -oppressive. - -Shah Zuman has lately sunk into a zealot: he passes the greater part -of his time in listening to the Koran and its commentaries. Poor man, -he is fortunate in deriving consolation from any source. When taking -leave, Shah Zuman begged I would visit him before quitting Lodiana, as -he was pleased at meeting a stranger. I did not fail to comply with his -wishes, and saw him alone. I had thought that his age and misfortunes -made him indifferent to all objects of political interest; but he -asked me, in a most piteous manner, if I could not intercede with the -Governor-general in behalf of his brother, and rescue him from his -present exile. I assured him of the sympathy of our government, and -said, that his brother should look to Sinde and the other provinces -of the Dooranee empire for support; but he shook his head, and said -the case was hopeless. After a short silence, the Shah told me that -he had inflammation in the eyes, and begged I would look at them. He -has suffered from this ever since his brother caused him to be blinded -with a lancet. As he has advanced in years, the organ seems to have -undergone a great change, and the black part of the eye has almost -disappeared. It is impossible to look upon Shah Zuman without feelings -of the purest pity; and, while in his presence, it is difficult to -believe we behold that king, whose name, in the end of last century, -shook Central Asia, and carried dread and terror along with it -throughout our Indian possessions. Infirm, blind, and exiled, he now -lives on the bounty of the British Government. - -~Journey to the Himalaya.~ - -After a ten days’ recreation at Lodiana, where we mingled once more -with our countrymen, we prosecuted our journey to Simla, on the -Himalaya mountains, a distance of about 100 miles, which we reached in -the course of a few days. We here beheld a scene of natural sublimity -and beauty, that far surpassed the glittering court which we had -lately left:--but my narrative must here terminate. At Simla we had -the honour of meeting the Right Honourable Lord William Bentinck, the -Governor-general of India; and his Lordship evinced his satisfaction -at the result of our mission, by entering at once into negotiations -for laying open the navigation of the Indus to the commerce of Britain, -a measure of enlightened policy, considered both commercially and -politically. I had the honour of receiving the following acknowledgment -of my endeavours to elucidate the geography of that river, and the -condition of the princes and people who occupy its banks. - -~Conclusion.~ - - “Delhi, 6 December, 1831. - - “Political Department. - - “TO LIEUT. ALEXANDER BURNES, &c. &c. &c. - - “Sir, - - “I am directed by the Right Honourable the Governor-general to - acknowledge the receipt of your several letters, forwarding a memoir - on the Indus, and a narrative of your journey to Lahore. - - “2. The first copy of your map of the Indus has also just reached - his Lordship, which completes the information collected during your - mission to Lahore, in charge of the presents from the late King of - England to Maharaja Runjeet Sing. - - “3. The Governor-general, having perused and attentively considered - all these documents, desires me to convey to you his high approbation - of the manner in which you have acquitted yourself of the important - duty assigned to you, and his acknowledgments for the full and - satisfactory details furnished on all the points in which it was the - desire of government to obtain information. - - “4. Your intercourse with the chiefs of Sinde, and the other Sirdars - and persons with whom you were brought into contact in the course of - the voyage up the Indus, appears to the Governor-general to have been - conducted with extreme prudence and discretion, so as to have left - a favourable impression on all classes, and to have advanced every - possible object, immediate, as connected with your mission, as well as - prospective; for, while your communications with them were calculated - to elicit full information as to their hopes and wishes, you most - judiciously avoided the assumption of any political character that - might lead to the encouragement of false and extravagant expectations, - or involve you in any of the passing intrigues. The whole of your - conduct and correspondence with the chiefs of the countries you - passed through in your journey, has the Governor-general’s entire and - unqualified approbation. - - “5. In like manner, his Lordship considers you to be entitled to - commendation for the extent of geographical and general information - collected in the voyage, and for the caution used in procuring it, no - less than for the perspicuous and complete form in which the results - have been submitted for record and consideration. The map prepared by - you forms an addition to the geography of India of the first utility - and importance, and cannot fail to procure for your labours a high - place in this department of science. - - “6. The result of your voyage in the different reports, memoirs, and - maps above acknowledged, will be brought without delay to the notice - of the authorities in England, under whose orders the mission was, - as you are aware, undertaken. His Lordship doubts not that they will - unite with him in commending the zeal, diligence, and intelligence - displayed by you in the execution of this service, and will express - their satisfaction at the manner in which their views have been - accomplished, and the objects contemplated in the mission to Lahore - fully and completely attained. - - “I have the honour to be, &c. - - (Signed) “H. T. PRINSEP, - - “Secretary to the Governor-general.” - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[13] God. - -[14] My journey to Bokhara made me better acquainted with these topes, -as has already appeared in Vol. I. - - - - - A - MEMOIR ON THE INDUS, - AND - ITS TRIBUTARY RIVERS - IN - THE PUNJAB. - - - - - NOTICE - REGARDING - THE MAP OF THE INDUS. - - -A new map of the Indus and Punjab Rivers from the sea to Lahore seems -to require some notice explanatory of its construction, and I have to -offer the following observations on that subject:-- - -The River Indus, from the southern direction in which it flows in its -progress to the ocean, presents few difficulties to the surveyor, -since an observation of latitude serves to fix the daily progress -in the voyage, and its comparatively straight course admits of easy -delineation. The map rests on a series of observations by the stars. -I should have preferred altitudes of the sun; but, with a people so -suspicious as we encountered, it was impossible to use an instrument in -daylight, and I should have required to halt the fleet twice to procure -equal altitudes, since the sun was south of the equator during the -voyage. Many of the large places, such as Tatta, Sehwun, Ooch, Mooltan, -&c., where we necessarily halted, have been laid down from a mean of -eight or ten stellar observations. - -The longitude and general delineations in the curvature of the river -rest on a minute protraction of its turnings, observed with care -every half hour, and sometimes oftener, with the approved compass by -Schmalcalder. The attention given to this important portion of the -undertaking may be imagined, when I state that my field books exhibit, -on an average, twenty bearings each day from sunrise to sunset. I was -early enabled to rate the progress of the boats through the water, by -timing them on a measured line along the bank, and apportioned the -distance to the hours and minutes accordingly. We could advance, I -found, by tracking, or being pulled by men, at one mile and a half an -hour; by gentle and favourable breezes at two miles, and by violent -winds at three miles an hour; while any great excess or deficiency was -pointed out by the latitude of the halting place. - -The base on which the work rests, is the towns of Mandivee and -Curachee: the one a seaport in Cutch, and the point from which the -mission started; the other a harbour in sight of the western mouth of -the Indus, which we saw before entering the river. Mandivee stands in -the latitude of 22° 50´, and Curachee in 24° 56´ north; while their -longitudes are respectively in 69° 34´, and 67° 19´ east, as fixed, in -1809, from the chronometers of the Sinde mission by Captain Maxfield. - -Assuming these points as correct, the line of coast intermediate to -them has been laid down from my own surveys in Cutch; while that of -Sinde rests on observations of the sun’s altitude at noon and the -boats’ daily progress, determined by heaving the log hourly. We sailed -only during the day, and at all times along shore, often in a small -boat, and were attended by six or eight pilots, who had passed their -lives in the navigation of those parts. - -The great difference in the topography of the mouths of the Indus, from -what is shown in all other maps, will no doubt arrest attention; but -it is to be remarked, that I call in question no former survey, since -the river has been hitherto laid down in this part of its course from -_native information_; and I can bear testimony to the correctness of -such portions of the Indus as were actually traversed by the mission -of 1809. From the jealousy of the Government of Sinde, we had to -pass up and down the coast no less than five times, which gave ample -opportunities to observe it; and I have a strong fact to adduce in -verification of the chart as it now exists. On the third voyage we -ran down so low as the latitude of 20° 30´ N., and were out of sight -of land for six days. At noon, on the last day (17th of March), while -standing on a due northerly course, I found our latitude to be 23° -50´, or a few miles below that mouth of the river which I had resolved -to enter. I immediately desired the pilots to steer a north-easterly -course for the land. We closed with it at sunset, a couple of miles -above Hujamree, the very mouth of the Indus I wished to make. At -daylight we had had no soundings in fifty fathoms, at seven A.M. we had -bottom at forty-two fathoms, and at eleven in thirty-four. By two in -the afternoon we were in twenty-one fathoms, and at dusk anchored in -twelve feet of water, off Reechel, having sighted the land at half past -four. - -In delineating the Delta of the Indus below Tatta, I have not only -had the advantage of sailing by a branch to that city, but approached -it on land by one route, and returned by another. I also ascended the -Pittee, or western mouth of the Indus, for thirty miles. The opposition -experienced from the Sinde Government gave rise to these variations -of route: they long tried to impede our progress; but the result of -their vacillation has happily added to our knowledge of their country, -in a degree which the most sanguine could not have anticipated. In -addition to my own track, I have added that of the Sinde mission, from -Curachee to Hydrabad, and thence to Lueput in Cutch. My own surveys in -Cutch, which extend high up the Koree, or eastern branch of the Indus, -together with every information, compel me to place the Goonee or -Phurraun River (which is the name for the Koree above Ali bunder), in -a more westerly longitude than in the maps hitherto published. Sindree -and Ali bunder lie north of Nurra in Cutch, so that the river cannot -extend so far into the desert as has been represented. - -From Hydrabad upwards, and, I may add, in all parts of the map, the -different towns rest on the latitudes as determined by the sextant. -Most of them are in a higher parallel than in the maps, but it was -satisfactory to find, on reaching Ooch, that the longitude of that -place, as taken from my own protraction, coincides pretty well with -that which has been assigned to it by Mr. Elphinstone’s surveyors, who -must have fixed it from Bhawulpoor. This was not the case with Bukkur; -but, as the latitude of that place was twenty-two minutes below the -true parallel, I have reason to be satisfied with the result above -stated. I likewise found that the Indus receives the Punjab rivers at -Mittun, in the latitude of 28° 55´, instead of 28° 20´ north, as given -in the map of the Cabool mission: but no one can examine that document -without acknowledging the unwearied zeal of its constructor, and -wondering that he erred so little when he visited few of the places, -and had his information from such sources. - -The Punjab rivers have been laid down on the same principle as the -Indus. The Chenab (Acesines), which has been erroneously styled -Punjnud, after it has gathered the other rivers, is very direct in its -course; but the Ravee (Hydräotes), on the other hand, is most tortuous, -and appears in its present shape after incredible labour for twenty -days spent in its navigation. The latitude of its junction with the -Chenab, and that of the city of Lahore, which stands in 31° 35´ 30´´ -north, and in 70° 20´ east longitude, have materially assisted me in -the task. I have also placed the confluence of the Jelum, or Behut -(Hydaspes), with the Chenab, twelve miles above the latitude in which -it has hitherto stood. The survey eastward terminates on the left bank -of the Sutledge (Hesudrus), with the British cantonment of Lodiana, -which I find stands in 30° 55´ 30´´ north latitude. I have used the -longitude of the latest and best map, and placed it in 75° 54´ east. - -With the Indus and Punjab Rivers, I have embodied a survey of the -Jaysulmeer country, which was finished in the year 1830, when I visited -Southern Rajpootana with Lieut. James Holland. The province of Cutch, -with the configuration of the Run, rests on my own surveys made in the -years 1825, 1826, 1827, and 1828.[15] - - -FOOTNOTE: - -[15] Instead of giving separate maps of the Indus and Central Asia, I -have now combined the whole of the geographical matter in one map, as -has already been explained. - - - - -MEMOIR OF THE INDUS. - - - - -CHAPTER I. - -A GENERAL VIEW OF THE INDUS. - - -~Inland navigation to Lahore.~ - -There is an uninterrupted navigation from the sea to Lahore. The -distance, by the course of the river, amounts to about a thousand -British miles: the following papers detail its practicability with -minuteness, but not more so, I trust, than the great importance of the -subject deserves. They also describe the state of the countries and -people. - -~Depth of water.~ - -The Indus, when joined by the Punjab rivers, never shallows, in the -dry season, to less than fifteen feet, and seldom preserves so great -a breadth as half a mile. The Chenab, or Acesines, has a medium depth -of twelve feet, and the Ravee, or Hydräotes, is about half the size -of that river. These are the minima of soundings on the voyage; but -the usual depth of the three rivers cannot be rated at less than four, -three, and two fathoms. The soundings of each day’s voyage are shown by -the figures on the map.[16] -~Boats.~ - -This extensive inland navigation, open as I have stated it to be, can -_only_ be considered traversable to the boats of the country, which -are flat bottomed, and do not draw more than four feet of water, when -heavily laden. The largest of these carry about seventy-five tons -English: science and capital might improve the build of these vessels; -but in extending our commerce, or in setting on foot a flotilla, the -present model would ever be found most convenient. Vessels of a sharp -build are liable to upset when they run aground on the sand-banks. -Steam-boats could ply, if constructed after the manner of the country, -but no vessel with a keel could be safely navigated. - -~Period of a voyage to Lahore.~ - -The voyage from the sea to Lahore occupied exactly sixty days; but -the season was most favourable, as the south-westerly winds had set -in, while the stronger inundations of the periodical swell had not -commenced. We reached Mooltan on the fortieth day, and the remaining -time was expended in navigating the Ravee, which is a most crooked -river. The boats sailed from sunrise to sunset, and, when the wind was -unfavourable, were dragged by ropes through the water. - -~Steam most available for the Indus.~ - -There are no rocks or rapids to obstruct the ascent, and the current -does not exceed two miles and a half an hour. Our daily progress -sometimes averaged twenty miles, by the course of the river; for a -vessel can be haled against the current at the rate of one mile and a -half an hour. With light breezes we advanced two miles an hour, and in -strong gales we could stem the river at the rate of three miles. Steam -would obviate the inconveniences of this slow and tedious navigation; -and I do not doubt but Mooltan might be reached in ten, instead of -forty days. From that city a commercial communication could best be -opened with the neighbouring countries. - -~Return voyage.~ - -A boat may drop down from Lahore to the sea in fifteen days, as -follows:--to Mooltan in six, to Bukkur in four, to Hydrabad in three, -and to the seaports in two. This is, of course, the very quickest -period of descent; and I may add, that it has never been of late tried, -for there is no trade between Sinde and the Punjab by water. - -~Political obstacles to trading on the Indus.~ - -There are political obstacles to using the Indus as a channel of -commerce. The people and princes are ignorant and barbarous: the former -plunder the trader, and the latter over-tax the merchant, so that goods -are sent by land, and by circuitous routes: this absence of trade -arises from no physical obstacles, and is to be chiefly traced to the -erroneous policy of the Sinde government. There are about 700 boats -between the sea and Lahore; and this number suffices for ferrying, and -all other purposes. - -~Military importance of the Indus.~ - -The defence of the Indus, the grand boundary of British India on -the West, is nowise affected by these trifling impediments, and we -can command its navigation without obstruction from both Cutch and -the Sutledge. The military advantages of the Indus are great: it is -navigable for a fleet from Attok to the sea. The insulated fortress of -Bukkur is a most important position. - - -FOOTNOTE: - -[16] These have been necessarily omitted in the reduced map. - - - - -CHAP. II. - -A COMPARISON OF THE INDUS AND GANGES. - - -I have recorded with care and attention the information which I have -collected regarding the Indus and its tributaries; yet the magnitude -of that river must be decided by a comparison with the other great -rivers of the world. An European, in the East, may appropriately narrow -his field, and confine such a comparison to its great twin river, the -Ganges, which, with the Indus, folds, as it were, in the embrace our -mighty empire of British India. At this time, too, in a publication -which has appeared at Calcutta, by Mr. G. A. Prinsep, regarding the -introduction of steam navigation into India, we have late and valuable -matter, both of an interesting and scientific nature, regarding the -peculiarities of the Ganges; which, with the previous papers of Rennell -and Colebrooke, afford very precise information regarding that river. -I have ventured, therefore, however incompetent, to lay down the -observations that have occurred to me regarding the Indus, that the -requisite comparison might be instituted. - -The Ganges and Indus, rising in the same mountains, traverse, with -an unequal length of course, the same latitudes: both rivers, though -nearly excluded from the tropics, are yet subject to be annually -flooded at a stated and the same period. The quantity of water, -therefore, which these rivers respectively discharge, will determine -their relative size; and we shall afterwards consider the slope or -fall by which they descend to the ocean. Sicriguli, on the Ganges, -and Tatta, on the Indus, seem to be the preferable sites for drawing -a comparison, since both places are situated at a point _before_ the -rivers have subdivided to form a delta, and _after_ they have each -received the whole of their tributary streams. The Indus certainly -throws off two branches above Tatta, the Fulailee and Pinyaree; but -they are only considerable rivers in the rainy season. - -It appears, then, from Mr. G. A. Prinsep’s essay, that in the month of -April the Ganges discharges, at Sicriguli, about 21,500 cubic feet of -water in a second. The average breadth of the river at that place is -given at 5000 feet, which is also the velocity in a second of time; -while its average depth does not exceed three feet. That in this result -we form a pretty correct estimate of the magnitude of the Ganges, is -further proved by the state of the river at Benares in the same month -(April), where, though contracted to a breadth of 1400 feet, the depth -exceeds thirty-four feet, and the discharge amounts to 20,000 cubic -feet per second, which differs in but a trifling degree from that at -Sicriguli. - -In the middle of April, I found the Indus at Tatta to have a breadth -of 670 yards, and to be running with a velocity of two miles and a -half an hour. It happens that the banks are steep on both sides of the -river in this part of its course; so that the soundings, which amount -to fifteen feet, are regular from shore to shore, if we except a few -yards on either side, where the water is still. This data would give -a discharge of 110,500 cubic feet per second; but by Buat’s equations -for the diminished velocity of the stream near the bed, compared with -that of the surface, it would be decreased to 93,465 cubic feet. Some -further deduction should be made for the diminished depth towards the -shores; and 80,000 cubic feet per second may be taken as a fair rate -of discharge of the Indus in the month of April.[17] It is a source of -regret to me that I am unable to extend my observations to the river -during the rainy season; but I had not an opportunity of seeing it -at that period, and do not desire to place opinion in opposition to -fact. I may mention, however, that at Sehwun, where the Indus is 500 -yards wide, and thirty-six feet deep, and sweeping with great velocity -the base of a rocky buttress that juts in upon the stream, there is a -mark on the precipice which indicates a rise of twelve feet during the -inundation. This gives a depth of eight fathoms to this part of the -Indus in the rainy season. If I could add the increase of width on as -sound data as I have given the perpendicular rise or depth of water, -we should be able to determine the ratio between its discharge at the -opposite seasons; but I have only the vague testimony of the natives to -guide me, and dismiss the subject. - -From what has been above stated, it will be seen that the Indus, in -discharging the enormous volume, of 80,000 cubic feet of water in a -second, exceeds by _four times_ the size of the Ganges in the dry -season, and nearly equals the great American river, the Mississippi. -The much greater length of course in the Indus and its tributaries, -among towering and snowy mountains near its source, that must always -contribute vast quantities of water, might have prepared us for the -result; and it is not extraordinary, when we reflect on the wide area -embraced by some of these minor rivers, and the lofty and elevated -position from which they take their rise: the Sutledge, in particular, -flows from the sacred Lake of Mansurour, in Tibet, 17,000 feet above -the sea. The Indus traverses, too, a comparatively barren and deserted -country, thinly peopled and poorly cultivated; while the Ganges expends -its waters in irrigation, and blesses the inhabitants of its banks with -rich and exuberant crops. The Indus, even in the season of inundation, -is confined to its bed by steeper and more consistent banks than the -other river; and, as I have stated, seldom exceeds half a mile in -width: the Ganges, on the other hand, is described as an inland sea in -some parts of its course; so that, at times, the one bank is scarcely -visible from the other,--a circumstance which must greatly increase -the evaporation. The arid and sandy nature of the countries that -border the Indus soon swallow up the overflowing waters, and make the -river more speedily retire to its bed. Moreover, the Ganges and its -subsidiary rivers derive their supply from the southern face of the -great Himalaya; while the Indus receives the torrents of either side -of that massy chain, and is further swollen by the showers of Cabool -and the rains and snow of Chinese Tartary. Its waters are augmented -long before the rainy season has arrived; and, when we look at the -distant source of the river, to what cause can we attribute this early -inundation but to melting snow and ice? - -The slope on which the Indus descends to the ocean would appear to be -gentle, like that of most great rivers. The average rate of its current -does not exceed two miles and a half an hour; while the whole of the -Punjab rivers, which we navigated on the voyage at Lahore, were found -to be one full mile in excess of the Indus. We readily account for -this increased velocity by their proximity to the mountains; and it -will serve as a guide in estimating the fall of the river. The city of -Lahore stands at a distance of about 1000 British miles from the sea, -by the course of the river; and I am indebted to Dr. J. G. Gerard, for -a series of barometrical observations, made some years ago at Umritsir, -a city about thirty miles eastward of Lahore. - - The mean of eighteen of these observations - gives us the height of the - barometer at 28,861·3 - - The corresponding observations at Calcutta - give 29,711·5 - -------- - Making a difference of 850·2 - -------- - -I am informed that the height of the instrument registered in Calcutta -may be twenty-five feet above the level of the sea; and as the city of -Umritsir is about the same level as Lahore (since both stand on the -plains of the Punjab), it must have an elevation of about 900 feet from -the sea. - -Having now stated the sum of our knowledge regarding this subject, -it remains to be considered in what, and how great a proportion, the -slope is to be distributed among the rivers from Lahore downwards. By -a comparison with the Ganges in Rennell’s work, and the late treatise -to which I have alluded, and assisted by the same scientific gentleman, -to whom I have before expressed my obligations, we cannot give a -greater fall downwards from Mittun, where the Indus receives the Punjab -rivers, than six, or perhaps five, inches per mile: nor can we allow -more than one fourth of 900 feet as the height of that place above the -level of the sea; for the river has not increased here in velocity of -current, though we have neared the mountains. Mittun is half way to -Lahore, about 500 miles from the sea, and nearly 220 feet above it. -The remaining 680 feet we may fairly apportion to the Punjab rivers, -from their greater rapidity of course; which would give them a fall of -twelve inches per mile. - -In these facts, we have additional proof of the greater bulk of the -Indus, as compared with the Ganges; when at the lowest, it retains a -velocity of two and a half miles, with a medial depth of fifteen feet, -and though running on as great, if not a greater slope than that river, -never empties itself in an equal degree, though much more straight in -its course. The Indus has none of those ledges, which have been lately -discovered as a peculiarity of the Ganges, and which are described -in Mr. Prinsep’s work as “making the bed of that river consist of a -series of pools, separated by shallows or sand-bars, at the crossing -of every reach.” Were the Indus as scantily supplied with water as the -Ganges, we should, doubtless, find a similar state of things; and, -though the bed of the one river would appear to far exceed in magnitude -that of the other, we find the Ganges partaking much of the nature of -a hill-torrent, overflowing at one season, insignificant at another; -while the Indus rolls on throughout the year, in one majestic body, to -the Ocean. - -Before bringing these remarks on the Indus to a close, I wish to add -a few words regarding the effect of the tide on the two rivers. In -the Ganges it runs considerably above Calcutta, while no impression -of it is perceptible in the Indus twenty-five miles below Tatta, or -about seventy-five miles from the sea. We are either to attribute -this occurrence to the greater column of water resisting the approach -of the sea, “whose vanquished tide, recoiling from the shock, yields -to the liquid weight;” or to the descent of the delta of the one river -being greater than that of the other. The tide in the Indus certainly -runs off with incredible velocity, which increases as we near the sea. -It would appear that the greatest mean rise of tide in the Ganges is -twelve feet: I found that of the Indus to be only nine feet at full -moon; but I had, of course, no opportunity of determining the _mean_ -rise of the tide as in the Ganges. The tides of Western India are known -to exceed those in the Bay of Bengal, as the construction of docks in -Bombay testifies; and I should be disposed to consider the rise at the -mouths of the Indus and Ganges to be much the same. Both rivers, from -the direction they fall into the ocean, must be alike subject to an -extraordinary rise of tide from gales and winds; and, with respect to -the whole coast of Sinde, the south-west monsoon blows so violently, -even in March, as to break the water at a depth of three or four -fathoms from the land, and long before its depressed shore is visible -to the navigator. - - -FOOTNOTE: - -[17] In this part of my subject, I have to express my fullest -acknowledgments to Mr. James Prinsep, Secretary to the Asiatic Society -of Calcutta, who has kindly afforded me his valuable assistance. - - - - -CHAP. III. - -ON SINDE. - - -~Sinde; its extent.~ - -The first territory which we meet in ascending the Indus is Sinde. The -subversion of the Cabool monarchy has greatly raised the political -importance of this country; and, while it has freed the rulers of it -from the payment of a yearly tribute, has enabled them to extend widely -the limits of their once circumscribed dominion. The principality is at -present in the zenith of its power, and comprises no less than 100,000 -square miles, extending from the longitude of 69° to 71° east, and from -the latitude of 23° to 29° north. The Indian Ocean washes it on the -south, and a diagonal line of 400 miles is terminated a short distance -below the junction of the waters of the Punjab with the Indus. The -eastern portion of this fine territory is sterile and unproductive; but -the Indus fertilises its banks by the periodical swell, and the waters -are conducted by canals far beyond the limits of inundation. - -~Its chiefs and revenue.~ - -The territory is divided among three different branches of the Belooche -tribe of Talpoor, who are nearly independent of one another. The -principal family resides at Hydrabad, at the head of which is Meer -Moorad Ali Khan, and, since the death of his three elder brothers, its -sole representative.[18] The next family of importance consists of the -descendants of Meer Sohrab Khan of Khyrpoor, whose son, Meer Roostum -Khan, is the reigning Ameer, and holds the fortress of Bukkur, with -the northern portion of Sinde. The third family, descended of Meer -Thara Khan, at the head of which is Ali Morad, resides at Meerpoor, and -possesses the country south-east of the capital. These three chiefs -are, properly speaking, the “Ameers of Sinde,” a name which has been -sometimes applied to the members of the Hydrabad family. The relative -importance of the Ameers is pointed out in their revenues: fifteen, -ten, and five lacs of rupees are the receipts of the different chiefs; -and their aggregate amount, thirty lacs of rupees, shows the annual -revenue of Sinde. The treasure, it is said, amounts to about twenty -millions sterling, thirteen of which are in money, and the remainder in -jewels. The greater portion of this cash lies deposited in the fort of -Hydrabad, and is divided between Moorad Ali and the wives of his late -brother, Kurm Ali. -~Its power and conquests.~ - -If we except the Seiks, the Ameers are more powerful than any of the -native princes to whose dominions the territories of Sinde adjoin; for -on every side they have seized and maintained by force the lands of -their neighbours. To the westward they hold Curachee as a conquest from -the chief of Lus, and are at present meditating an extension of their -boundary towards Sonmeeanee, that they may keep the trade to Candahar -entirely within their own dominions. To the north-west they seized -the fort of Bukkur, and the fertile territory of Shikarpoor, from -the Afghans; and, though it latterly belonged to the powerful family -of Barakzye (who now hold Cabool, Candahar, and Peshawur), they have -hitherto engaged in annual but fruitless attempts to retake it. A force -of 6000 men were encamped at Sewee, in the plains of Cutch Gundava, -when we passed Shikarpoor; but they were unable to meet the Sindians -in the field. On the north-east the Ameers hold Subzulcote and a large -portion of the Daoodpootra country. To the eastward, they captured the -fortress of Omercote, in 1813, from the Joodpoor Raja, and have since -pushed their troops far into that Prince’s territories. If we exclude a -portion of that country which belongs to Jaysulmeer, they now possess -the whole country south of that capital to the Runn of Cutch, Parkur -included. On the side of Cutch alone their progress has been arrested -by the British Government. - -~Its military strength.~ - -The value of these conquests is greatly enhanced by the trifling -increase of expense which they have entailed on the government; for, -except in the forts of the Desert, neither garrisons nor troops are -kept in pay to protect them, while every attack endangering their -security has been hitherto successfully resisted. The conduct of the -Sindian in the field is brave; and if we are to judge by results, -he is superior to his neighbours. They parried off an inroad of one -formidable army from Cabool by a retreat to the Desert; and they -defeated a second with great slaughter in the vicinity of Shikarpoor. -Destitute as they are of discipline, and unable, assuredly, to cope -with regular troops, we must admit that they excel in the art of war -as practised by themselves and the adjacent nations. The Sindians, -unlike other Asiatics, pride themselves on being foot soldiers, and -they prefer the sword to the matchlock: their artillery, formidable in -number, is contemptible in strength; their cavalry does not deserve -the name: horses are scarce, and of a very diminutive breed. Various -surmises have been made regarding the strength of their army, but they -seem to me vague and indefinite; for every native who has attained the -years of manhood, the mercantile classes alone excepted, becomes a -soldier by the constitution of the government; and he derives his food -and support in time of peace from being pledged to give his services -in war. The host to be encountered is therefore a rabble, and, as -infantry, their swords would avail them but little in modern warfare -with an European nation. On an attack from the British Government, it -is probable that the rulers of Sinde, after a feeble resistance, would -betake themselves, with their riches, as of yore, to the Desert, a -retreat which would cost them, in this instance, their country. They -might foment for a while conspiracy and rebellion, but the misfortunes -of the house of Talpoor would excite compassion nowhere; for their -government is unpopular with their subjects, and dreaded, if not hated, -by the neighbouring nations. - -In the decline of other Mahommedan states, the prosperity of Sinde has -exalted it in the eyes of foreigners. - -~Its external policy.~ - -Of the princes bordering on Sinde, the Ameers have most intercourse -with Mehrab Khan, the Brahooee chief of Kelat and Gundava, who, like -themselves, was formerly a tributary of Cabool. By this alliance they -have skilfully interposed a courageous people together, with a strong -country between their territories and that kingdom. The Afghans have -endeavoured by bribes and promises to bring over the Kelat chief to -their interests, but he has not been hitherto persuaded, and professes -himself, on all occasions, ready to assist the Ameers in the protection -of that part of their frontier adjoining his dominions. He is related -by marriage to the Hydrabad Ameer; and the Brahooees and Beloochees, -considering themselves to be originally descended from one stock, may -be therefore supposed to have one common interest. With the Seiks at -Lahore there is no cordiality, and but little intercourse: they dread, -and with reason, Runjeet Sing’s power, and they are likewise anxious -to avoid giving offence to any of the Cabool family by a show of -friendship. They owe the Maharaja no allegiance, nor has he hitherto -exacted any; but it has not escaped their observation, that, of all the -countries which adjoin the Sindian dominions, there are none from which -an invasion can be so easily made as from the Punjab, and it is very -doubtful if they could withstand an attack conducted by the Seiks from -that quarter. With the Rajpoot chiefs on their eastern frontier their -intercourse is confined to the exchange of presents. - -~Its internal state.~ - -The internal resources of Sinde are considerable; nor must we look to -the confined revenues of her rulers for an index to that wealth, as in -their struggle for supremacy, the Ameers received many favours from -their Belooch brethren, which have been repaid by large and numerous -grants of land. By deteriorating the value of what remained as their -own share, they hope to allay the cupidity of their neighbours. Trade -and agriculture languish in this land. The duties exacted on goods -forwarded by the Indus are so exorbitant that there is no merchandise -transported by that river, and yet some of the manufactures of Europe -were to be purchased as cheap at Shikarpoor as in Bombay. We are -informed in the Periplus of the Erythrean sea, that the traffic of -Sinde, when ruled by a powerful prince in the second century of the -Christian era, was most extensive, and it is even said to have been -considerable so late as the reign of Aurungzebe. The present rulers, -possessing as they do such unlimited authority over so wide a space, -might raise up a wealthy and commercial kingdom; but the river Indus -is badly situated for the trader, and has no mouth like the Ganges -accessible to large ships: it is separated, too, from India by an -inhospitable tract; and a very vigorous and energetic government could -alone protect commerce from being plundered by the Boordees, Moozarees, -and other hill tribes to the westward. The Indus can only become a -channel for commerce when the chiefs possessing it shall entertain more -enlightened notions. At present much of the fertile banks of this -river, so admirably adapted for agriculture, are only used for pasture. -Flocks and herds may be driven from the invader; but the productions of -the soil can only be reaped in due season, after care and attention. -I now proceed to describe the state of parties at present existing in -Sinde. - -~The Hydrabad family.~ - -The Hydrabad family, from having been visited by several British -missions, is better known than any of the others. It includes the -southern portion, or what is called “Lower Sinde.” Since its first -establishment, in 1786, it has undergone great change; and the reins -of government, from being wielded by four brothers, have been left -without bloodshed in the hands of the last survivor. But the struggle -for dominion, so long warded off, has been bequeathed to a numerous -progeny; and on the death of Moorad Ali Khan, who has attained his -sixtieth year, the evil consequences of the founder of the family, -raising his brothers to an equality with himself, will be felt in a -disputed succession, and perhaps in civil war.[19] One Ameer died -without issue; two of them left sons who have now attained to manhood, -and the remaining Ameer has a family of five children, two of whom, -Noor Mahommed and Nusseer Khan, have for years past sat in durbar on an -equality with their cousins, Sobdar and Mahommed. The different parties -of these four young princes form so many separate factions in the court -of Sinde, and each uses that influence and policy which seems best -suited to advance its ends. Three of them, as the eldest descendants of -Ameers, might claim a right of sharing as their fathers; but the second -son of Moorad Ali Khan has greater weight than any of them, and the -government of the Ameers of Sinde could never, as it first stood, be -considered an hereditary one. - -~Meer Nusseer Khan, and Meer Mahommed.~ - -Meer Nusseer Khan, to whose influence I have just alluded, has been -brought forward by his father in the intercourse with the British, and -though fourth in rank below the Ameer himself: he is the only person -who, with his father, addresses, on all occasions, and is addressed -by, the British Government. He openly professes his attachment to the -English, and informed me by letters, and in two public durbars, that -he had been the means of procuring a passage for the mission by the -Indus to Lahore. Strange as it may appear, it is said that his parent, -otherwise so jealous of the British, had strenuously advised this line -of procedure in his son; nor was it disguised from me by many who had -opportunities of knowing, that the Prince acted under the hope of -assistance from our Government when the hour of difficulty arrived. -Nusseer Khan maintains likewise a friendly intercourse with several -members of the fallen monarchy of Cabool; and while we were at Hydrabad -he was despatching presents to Kamran at Herat. This prince is a mild -and engaging man, much attached to the sports of the field. He has -more liberality than talent, and less prudence than becomes one in the -difficult part which he will shortly have to perform. His success will -depend on the possession of his father’s wealth, for money is the sinew -of war; and the good will of a venal people like the Sindians is not to -be retained by one who has spent his inheritance. Noor Mahommed, the -eldest brother of Nusseer Khan, cultivates a closer friendship with -the Seiks than any other of the Talpoor family, but he has neither -partisans nor ability to achieve an enterprise. He is, besides, -addicted to the grossest debauchery and the most odious vices; but it -is always to be remembered that he is the eldest son of the reigning -chief. - -~Mahommed and Sobdar.~ - -Meer Mahommed seems to hope, and not without cause, that the services -of his father, Gholam Ali, will secure to him his rights. He sent a -messenger to me privately with an offer to enter into a secret treaty -with the British Government, which I declined for obvious reasons. -Sobdar is the rightful heir of Moorad Ali, being the eldest son of the -founder of the house. He is no favourite with the Ameers; but, besides -a treasure of three millions sterling, and lands which yield him three -lacs of rupees annually, he has many chiefs and partisans, who cling -to him from a remembrance of his father’s virtues. He is, too, the -ablest “scion of the stock,” and by one rebellion has already asserted -his rights. The contest will probably lie between Sobdar and Nusseer -Khan; and if these two choose to govern as those who preceded them, -they may revive the title and retain the power of the Ameers of Sinde. -At present, Meer Sobdar conceals his plans and intentions from dread -of his uncle; and I may mention, as a specimen of Sindian jealousy, -that because I asked several times after his health (according to the -formality of this court), seeing him seated on the right hand of the -Ameer, he was displaced at our second interview to make room for Meer -Nusseer Khan. Should Moorad Ali attain “a good old age” these opinions -may prove fallacious, as the stage will then be occupied by other -competitors, who are at present in their childhood, and from among whom -some one, more daring than his relations, may meet with success and -power. - -~The Khyrpoor family.~ - -The Khyrpoor chief, Meer Roostum Khan, succeeded to his father, who -was killed in 1830 by a fall from a balcony. He is about fifty years -of age, and has five sons and two brothers. This family is so numerous -that there are at present forty male members of it alive, descended in -a right line from Meer Sohrab Khan. The chief maintains greater state -than the Hydrabad family. The territory is extensive and productive, -extending on the east bank from a short distance above Sehwun to the -latitude of 28° 30´ north, and on the west bank from Shikarpoor to -within fifteen miles of Mittun, on the verge of the Punjab, skirting -to the westward the mountain of Gendaree and the plains of Cutch -Gundava. There is little cordiality existing between the Khyrpoor and -Hydrabad Ameers; and the breach has been lately increased by some -disputes relative to the duties on opium, of which the former have -hitherto, and in vain, claimed a share. The whole family expressed -themselves cordially attached to the British Government; and evinced, -by a continual succession of kindness, and even munificence towards -our party, that they were sincere in their sentiments: none of them -had ever before seen an European. The treasure, which amounts to three -millions of money, is held by Ali Moorad, the youngest brother of Meer -Roostum Khan, who having access to it, as the favourite son, seized -it on Sohrab’s death, and still retains it. With this exception, the -family are united, and have no subject of dissension. - -The influence of the chief of Khyrpoor in the affairs of Sinde is -considerable. No undertaking which has reference to the well-being -of the country is planned without his being consulted; and hitherto -no operations have been carried on without his sanction. The refusal -of Meer Sohrab to enter into a war to protect the Daoodpootras, and -prevent encroachment by the Seiks, defeated the plans of the Ameers; -for though the families are independent of one another, they will only -act when united. Meer Roostum Khan is on much better terms with his -neighbours than the Hydrabad family: he has agents from the Jaysulmeer -and Beecaneer Rajas, and from the Daoodpootras, resident at his court, -and has more intercourse with the Seiks at Lahore. Meer Roostum is -prepared, however, on all occasions with his troops to protect from -invasion the boundaries of Sinde as they at present exist; and has -readily furnished his quota of troops when the Afghans have endeavoured -to retake Shikarpoor from the Hydrabad chief. - -~Meerpoor family.~ - -The Meerpoor family, at the head of which is Ali Moorad, has the least -influence of the Sinde Ameers. His immediate vicinity to Hydrabad, and -his less fertile and more circumscribed boundary, have kept it more -under the subjection of the principal Ameer. The territory, however, is -exactly situated on the line of invasion for an army from Cutch; and -this Ameer might render material service to any expedition. The family -is allied to Sobdar; and will, in all probability, follow that prince’s -fortunes on a change of government. - -~Condition of the people.~ - -With reference to the condition of the people in these different -chiefships, much has been said by various writers; and I would have -willingly passed it unnoticed, did not the means of observation, which -I enjoyed for so many months, lead me to dissent from some of their -opinions. The Sindians are passionate and proud; and all of them would -be considered deceitful, in so far as they praise and promise without -sincerity. Their passion proceeds from their savage ignorance, and -their pride from jealousy: their deceit does not deceive each other, -and, consequently, ought not to deceive a stranger. I found those -in my employ most honest and faithful servants, and passed from one -extremity of Sinde to another without any other guard than the natives -of the country, and without losing a trifle, though our boats were -boarded by crowds daily. The Sindians are governed by their princes, -after the spirit of the country; and if they could discern how much -the advantages of civil life, and the encouragement of industry and -art, rise superior to despotic barbarism, we might look upon Sinde and -her people in a different light: but these rulers, who seized it by -the sword, must be excused for so maintaining it. Where the principles -of honour are not understood (as has ever been too much the case in -Asiatic governments), men must be ruled by fear; and it is only as -the subject gets liberal and civilised, that he can appreciate the -advantages of free institutions, and deserves such or any share in -the government of his country. The inhabitants of Sinde are miserably -poor, both in the towns and villages; for when we except a few Belooche -chiefs, and some religious families, who are attached to the court, -there is no distributed wealth in the land but among a few Hindoo -merchants. The people of that tribe share no greater evils than their -Mahommedan brethren, and enjoy as much toleration and happiness as in -other Moslem governments. If they were formerly treated with rigour, -the age of fanaticism has passed; and the Hindoo Dewans of Sinde now -transact the entire pecuniary concerns of the state, while the Shroffs -and Banians, who are also Hindoos, pursue their vocations without -interruption, marry off their children, when they attain the prescribed -age, to inherit, after their demise, the substance which had been -realised by commerce. - -~Its extent of population.~ - -It is difficult to fix the population of Sinde, and I bear in mind that -I have seen the fairest portion of the country in my progress through -it by the Indus. The large towns are neither numerous nor extensive: -Hydrabad, the capital, has about 20,000 people, but it is exceeded by -Shikarpoor: Tatta, Currachee, and Khyrpoor have 15,000 each; Meerpoor, -Hala, Sehwun, Larkhana, and Roree (with Sukkur), have each about -10,000; Muttaree, Ulyartando, and Subzul, with five or six others, have -5000 each; which gives a population of nearly 200,000 souls. The number -of people in the delta does not exceed 30,000; and the parts away from -the river, both to the east and west, are thinly peopled, for pastoral -countries are not populous. The villages within reach of the inundation -are, however, large and numerous; and, including the whole face of -the country, there cannot be less than a million of human beings. One -fourth of this number may be Hindoos; and the greater portion of the -Mahommedans are descended from converts to that religion. - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[18] As this work is passing through the press, intelligence has -reached England of the death of this Ameer, which has been followed by -a civil war. - -[19] The death of the last Ameer has amply verified such a supposition. - - - - -CHAP. IV. - -ON THE MOUTHS OF THE INDUS. - - -~The Indus.~ - -The Indus, like the Nile and the Ganges, reaches the ocean by many -mouths, which, diverging from the parent stream, form a delta of rich -alluvium. At a distance of sixty miles from the sea, and about five -miles below the city of Tatta, this river divides into two branches. -The right arm is named Buggaur, and the left Sata. This separation is -as ancient as the days of the Greeks, and mentioned by the historians -of Alexander the Great. - -~Two great branches forming its delta.~ - -Of these two branches, the left one, or Sata, pursues nearly a southern -course to the ocean, following the direction of the great river from -which it is supplied; while the right, or Buggaur, deviates at once -from the general track of the Indus, and reaches the sea, by a westerly -course, almost at right angles to its twin river. - -~The Sata.~ - -The eastern branch, or Sata, is the larger of the two, and below the -point of division is one thousand yards wide: it now affords egress to -the principal body of the water; and though it divides and subdivides -itself into numerous channels, and precipitates its water into the sea -by no less than seven mouths within the space of thirty-five miles, -yet such is the violence of the stream, that it throws up sand banks or -bars, and only one of this many-mouthed arm is ever entered by vessels -of fifty tons. The water sent out to sea from them during the swell of -the river is fresh for four miles; and the Gora, or largest mouth, has -cast up a dangerous sand bank, which projects directly from the land -for fifteen miles. - -~The Buggaur.~ - -The western arm, which is called Buggaur, on the other hand, flows -into one stream past Peer Putta, Bohaur, and Darajee, to within five -or six miles of the sea, when it divides into two navigable branches, -the Pittee and Pieteanee, which fall into the ocean about twenty-five -miles apart from each other. These are considered the two great mouths -of the Indus, and were frequented till lately by the largest native -boats. They are yet accessible, but for three years past the channel of -the Buggaur has been deserted by the river; and though it contains two -fathoms of water as high as Darajee, it shallows above that town. In -the dry season it is in some places but knee-deep, and its bed, which -continues nearly half a mile broad, has at that time but a breadth -of 100 yards. The name of Buggaur signifies “destroy.” While this -alteration has diverted the trade from Darajee to the banks of the -Sata, the country near the Buggaur is as rich as it was previously; and -though the branch itself is not navigated, yet there are frequently -two fathoms in its bed, and every where a sufficiency of water for -flat-bottomed boats. During the swell it is a fine river, and will in -all probability shortly regain its former pre-eminence. - -~Delta; its size.~ - -The land embraced by both these arms of the delta extends, at the -junction of the rivers with the sea, to about seventy British miles; -and so much, correctly speaking, is the existing delta of this -river. The direction of the sea-coast along this line of rivers is -north-north-west. - -~Delta may be considered longer.~ - -But the Indus covers with its waters a wider space than that now -described, and has two other mouths still further to the eastward than -those thrown out by the Sata, the Seer, and Koree, the latter the -boundary line which divides Cutch from Sinde, though the rulers of that -country have diverted the waters of both these branches by canals for -irrigation, so that none of them reach the sea. With the addition of -these forsaken branches, the Indus presents a face of about 125 British -miles to the sea, which it may be said to enter by eleven mouths. The -latitude of the most western embouchure is about 24° 40´ N., that of -the eastern below 28° 30´, so that in actual latitude there is an -extent of about eighty statute miles.[20] - -~Dangers of navigating the delta.~ - -The inconstancy of the Indus through the delta is proverbial, and there -is here both difficulty and danger in its navigation. It has in these -days, among the people of Sinde, as bad a character as has been left -to it by the Greek historians. The water is cast with such impetuosity -from one bank to another, that the soil is constantly falling in upon -the river; and huge masses of clay hourly tumble into the stream, often -with a tremendous crash. In some places the water, when resisted by a -firm bank, forms eddies and gulfs of great depth, which contain a kind -of whirlpool, in which the vessels heel round, and require every care -to prevent accident. The current in such places is really terrific, and -in a high wind the waves dash as in the ocean. To avoid these eddies, -and the rotten parts of the bank, seemed the chief objects of care in -the boatmen. - -~Peculiarities of navigation.~ - -It is a fact worthy of record, that those mouths of the Indus, which -are least favoured by the fresh water, are most accessible to large -vessels from the sea; for they are more free from sand banks, which -the river water, rushing with violence, never fails to raise. Thus the -Buggaur, which I have just represented as full of shallows, has a deep -and clear stream below Darajee to the sea. The Hoogly branch of the -Ganges is, I believe, navigable from a similar cause. - -~Individual mouths.~ - -I shall now proceed to describe the several mouths with their harbours, -depth of water, together with such other facts as have fallen under -notice. - -~The Pittee.~ - -Beginning from the westward, we have the Pittee mouth, an embouchure of -the Buggaur, that falls into what may be called the bay of Curachee. -It has no bar; but a large sand bank, together with an island outside, -prevent a direct passage into it from the sea, and narrow the channel -to about half a mile at its mouth. At low water its width is even -less than 500 yards: proceeding upwards, it contracts to 160, but the -general width is 300. At the shallowest part of the Pittee there was a -depth of nine feet at low water, and the tide rose nine feet more at -full moon. At high water there is every where a depth of two fathoms to -Darajee, and more frequently five and six, sometimes seven and eight. -Where two branches meet, the water is invariably deep. At a distance of -six miles up the Pittee there is a rock stretching across the river: -it has nine feet of water on it at low tide. The general course of the -Pittee for the last thirty miles is W.N.W., but it enters the sea by a -channel due south. The Pittee is exceedingly crooked, and consists of -a succession of short turnings, in the most opposite directions; even -from south to north the water from one angle is thrust upon another, -which leaves this river alternately deep on both sides. Where the banks -are steep, there will the channel be found; and, again, where they -gradually meet the water, shallows invariably exist. This, however, may -be remarked of all rivers which flow over a flat country. There is no -fresh water in the Pittee nearer than thirty miles from the sea: the -brushwood on its banks is very dense, and for fifteen miles up presses -close in upon the river. We navigated this branch to that extent, and -crossed it in two places higher up, at Darajee and Bohaur, where it had -two fathoms’ water. - -~Pieteeanee.~ - -The Pieteeanee quits the Pittee about twenty miles from the sea, -which it enters below the latitude of 24° 20´. It is narrower than the -Pittee, and in every respect an inferior branch; for there are sand -banks in its mouth, which overlap each other, and render the navigation -intricate and dangerous. We found it to have a depth of six feet on its -bar at low tide, and fifteen at full; but when once in its channel, -there were three fathoms’ water. At its mouth it is but 300 yards -wide, and higher up it contracts even to fifty; but it has the same -depth of water every where till it joins the Pittee. The Pieteeanee -runs north-easterly into the land, and from its shorter course the -tide makes sooner than in the Pittee, which presented the singular -circumstance of one branch running up, and the other down, at the same -time. - -~Inferior creeks.~ - -Connected with these two mouths of the Indus, there are three inferior -creeks, called Koodee, Khow, and Dubboo. The two first join the Pittee; -and the Koodee was in former years one of the great entrances to -Darajee, but its place has been usurped by the Pieteeanee, and it is -now choked. Dubboo is only another entrance to the Pieteeanee. - -~Indus navigated by flat-bottomed boats.~ - -However accessible these two branches have been found, neither of them -are navigated by any other than flat-bottomed boats, which carry the -entire cargo to and from the mouth of the river, inside which the sea -vessels anchor. It was an unheard-of occurrence for boats like the four -that conveyed us (none of them twenty-five tons in burden) to ascend so -high up the Pittee as we did, a distance of thirty miles; but assuredly -we encountered no obstacles. - -~Jooa, Reechel, and Hujamree.~ - -Of the seven mouths that give egress to the waters of the Sata, or -eastern branch, below Tatta, the Jooa, Reechel, and Hujamree, lie -within ten miles of each other. One of these mouths has been at all -times more or less navigable; and while they are the estuaries of the -waters of the Sata, still a portion of those thrown off by the Buggaur, -or other grand arm, reach them by inferior creeks during the swell, -forming an admirable inland navigation through all parts of the delta. -The mouths of the Jooa and Reechel are choked; but the latter was at a -late period the most frequented of all the branches of the Indus. It -was formerly marked by a minaret, which has, I suppose, fallen down, -as this fact is particularly mentioned by our early navigators. There -is yet a village, near its mouth, called Moonara, or minaret. The -Hujamree is now accessible to boats of fifty tons. Its port is Vikkur, -twenty-five miles from the sea, which, with Shah-bunder (still further -eastward), seems alternately to share the trade of the delta. This -season Shah-bunder is scarcely to be approached, and the next season -Vikkur will perhaps be deserted. We entered the Indus by the Hujamree -mouth, and disembarked at Vikkur. At the bar we had fifteen feet of -water at high tide, and a depth of four fathoms all the way to Vikkur, -even when the tide was out. - -~Khedywaree.~ - -The Khedywaree is the next mouth eastward of Hujamree, with which it is -connected by small creeks; it is shallow, and not much frequented by -boats but to cut firewood. - -~Gora, or Wanyanee.~ - -Of the remaining mouths of the left arm, the next is Gora, the largest -of all the mouths. It derives its supply of water direct from the Sata, -which near the sea feeds numerous small creeks, and is named Wanyanee. -From the Hujamree we passed by a narrow creek into this mouth of the -Indus. The Gora (or, as it is also called towards the sea, Wanyanee,) -has every where a depth of four fathoms. It is not more than 500 yards -wide, and runs with great velocity. Its course is somewhat crooked, -but it pursues a southerly line to the sea, and passes by a fine -village on the left bank called Kelaun. Though the Gora possesses such -facilities for navigation, yet it is not to be entered from the sea -by the smallest boats, from a dangerous sand bank, to which I have -before alluded. It is clear that such sand banks are thrown up by the -impetuosity of the stream; for the Reechel, till it was deserted by the -great body of the Indus, had as large a bar as is now opposite Gora, -which has entirely disappeared with the absence of the fresh water. -This branch of the Indus in the last century was open to large boats; -and a square-rigged vessel of 70 tons now lies near it on dry land, -where it has been left by the caprice of the river. - -~Khaeer and Mull.~ - -Below the Gora we have the Khaeer and Mull, mouths communicating with -it. All three disembogue within twelve miles of each other. The Khaeer, -like the Gora, is unnavigable. The Mull is safe for boats of 25 tons; -and being the only entrance now open to Shah-bunder, is therefore -frequented. The boats anchor in an artificial creek four miles up it, -called Lipta, and await the flat-bottomed craft from the port, distant -about twenty miles north-east. - -~The Seer.~ - -About five-and-twenty miles below Mull we meet the Seer mouth of the -Indus, but have salt instead of fresh water. There are several minor -creeks that intervene, but they do not form any communication. The Seer -is one of the destroyed branches of the Indus. A dam has been thrown -across it below Mughribee, fifty miles from its mouth; and though it -ceases to be a running stream on that account, the superfluity of fresh -water from above forces for itself a passage by small creeks till it -regains the Seer, which thus contains fresh water twenty miles from its -mouth, though it is but a creek of the sea. The river immediately below -Mughribee is named Goongra; higher up it is called Pinyaree, and leaves -the parent stream between Hydrabad and Tatta. The Seer is accessible -to boats of 150 candies (38 tons) to a place called Gunda, where they -load from the flat-bottomed boats of Mughribee. With some extra labour, -these same boats could reach the dam of Mughribee; and from that town -the inland navigation for flat-bottomed boats is uninterrupted to the -main Indus, though it becomes more difficult in the dry season. The -dam of Mughribee is forty feet broad. The Seer at its mouth is about -two miles wide, but it gets very narrow in ascending; within, it has -a depth of four and six fathoms, but below Gunda there is a sand bank -with but one fathom water on it. There is a considerable trade carried -on from this branch of the Indus with the neighbouring countries of -Cutch and Kattywar; for rice, the staple of Sinde, is to be had in -abundance at Mughribee. - -~The Koree, or eastern mouth.~ - -The Koree, or eastern branch of the Indus, completes the eleven mouths -of the river. It once discharged a portion of the waters of the -Fulailee that passes Hydrabad, as also of a branch that quits the -Indus near Bukkur, and traverses the desert _during the swell_; but -it has been closed against both these since the year 1762, when the -Sindians threw up bunds, or dams, to inflict injury on their rivals, -the inhabitants of Cutch.[21] Of all the mouths of the Indus the Koree -gives the grandest notion of a mighty river. A little below Lucput -it opens like a funnel, and at Cotasir is about seven miles wide, -and continues to increase till the coasts of Cutch and Sinde are not -visible from one another. When the water here was fresh it must have -been a noble stream. The depth of this arm of the sea (for it can be -called by no other name) is considerable. We had twenty feet of water -as high as Cotasir, and it continues equally deep to Busta, which is -but eight miles from Lucput. A Company’s cruiser once ascended as high -as Cotasir; but it is considered dangerous, for there is an extensive -sand bank at the mouth called Adheearee, on which the water at low -tide is only knee deep. There are also several sand banks between it -and Cotasir, and a large one opposite that place. The Koree does not -communicate with the Seer or any other mouth of the Indus, but it sends -off a back water to Cutch, and affords a safe inland navigation to -small craft from Lucput to Juckow on the Indian Ocean, at the mouth of -the gulf of Cutch. - -~Advantages of these to Sinde.~ - -The Sindians, it will therefore appear, have choked both eastern -branches. There being no communication by the Indus and the Koree, the -trade of Sinde is not exported by it. It finds a vent by the Seer; but -this has not given rise to any new town being built on its banks. Such, -indeed, is the humidity, that this country is only tenable for a part -of the year. - -~The sea outside the Indus; its dangers.~ - -We here complete the enumeration and description of the mouths of the -Indus. Out from them the sea is shallow; but the soundings are regular, -and a vessel will have from twelve to fifteen feet of water a mile -and a half off shore. The Gora bank presents the only difficulty to -the navigation of these coasts, from Mandivee, in Cutch, to Curachee. -Breakers are to be traced along it for twelve miles. The sailors clear -it by stretching at once out of sight of land, and keeping in twelve -fathoms’ water till the danger is over: they even state that a vessel -of twenty-five tons would be wrecked on a course where the depth is -ten fathoms. This bank is much resorted to by fishermen; and it may -generally be distinguished by their boats and nets. - -~Coast of Sinde exposed.~ - -The coast of Sinde, from its entire exposure to the Indian ocean, is -so little protected against storms, that the navigation is much sooner -suspended than in the neighbouring countries. Few vessels approach -it after March; for the south-west monsoon, which then partially -commences, so raises the sea that the waves break in three and four -fathoms water, while the coast is not discernible from its lowness till -close upon it, and there is a great risk of missing the port, and no -shelter at hand, in such an event. - -~Tides of the Indus.~ - -The tides rise in the mouths of the Indus about nine feet at full moon: -they flow and ebb with great violence, particularly near the sea, where -they flood and abandon the banks with equal and incredible velocity. -It is dangerous to drop the anchor but at low water, as the channel is -frequently obscured, and the vessel may be left dry. The tides in the -Indus are only perceptible seventy-five miles from the sea, that is, -about twenty-five miles below Tatta. - -~Country at the mouths of the Indus.~ - -There is not a more miserable country in the world than the low tract -at the mouths of the Indus. The tide overflows their banks, and recedes -to leave a desert dreary waste, overgrown with shrubs, but without a -single tree. If a vessel be unfortunately cast on this coast, she -is buried in two tides; and the greatest despatch can hardly save a -cargo. We had proof of this in an unfortunate boat which stranded -near us; and, to add to the miseries of this land, the rulers of it, -by a barbarous law, demand every thing which is cast on shore, and -confiscate any vessel which, from stress of weather, may enter their -ports. - -~Curachee, why preferred to the Indus.~ - -The principal sea-port of Sinde is Curachee, which appears remarkable, -when its rulers are in possession of all the mouths of the Indus; -but it is easily explained. Curachee is only fourteen miles from the -Pittee, or western mouth of the Indus; and there is less labour in -shipping and unshipping goods at it, than to carry them by the river -from Darajee or Shahbunder in flat-bottomed boats. Curachee can also -throw its imports into the peopled part of Sinde without difficulty, by -following a frequented and good level road to Tatta. The unshipment, -too, at that port, supersedes the necessity of shifting the cargo into -flat-bottomed boats; and the actual distance between Curachee and Tatta -(about sixty miles) is half exceeded by following the windings of the -stream to any of the harbours in the Delta. As the ports in the river -and Curachee are both subject to Sinde, it is conclusive that that -sea-port has advantages over those of the river, which have led to -their being forsaken by the navigator. In former years, before Curachee -was seized by the Sindians, the exports from the Delta were more -considerable; since then all articles of value are brought to Curachee -by land, and there shipped. The opium from Marwar is never put into a -boat but to cross the Indus on its way to Curachee. - -~The sea boats of Sinde.~ - -The boats of the Indus claim attention. Including Curachee and all the -ports of the country, there are not, perhaps, a hundred dingees, or -sea vessels, belonging to the dominions of the Ameer. These boats are -of a peculiar construction--of a sharp build, with a very lofty poop; -the large ones never ascend the rivers, and are principally used at -the port of Curachee, and sail from thence to Muscat, Bombay, and the -Malabar coast: they carry no guns. A smaller dingee is used at the -mouths of the Indus, chiefly for fishing: they are good sea-boats, -and sail very quickly. The fisheries in the mouths of the Indus being -extensive, and forming a source of commerce, these craft abound. - -~Flat-bottomed boats.~ - -The traffic on the Indus, commencing from its very mouth, is carried on -in flat-bottomed boats, called doondees. They are large and unwieldy, -and never exceed 100 kurwars (fifty tons) in burthen, and, when laden, -draw only four feet of water. They have two masts, the larger in -front; they hoist their sails behind them, to prevent accident, by -giving less play to the canvass. The foresail is of a lateen shape; -that aft is square, and very large. With these set, they can stem the -current, in a good wind, at the rate of three miles an hour. We came -from the sea to Hydrabad in five days. When the wind fails, these boats -are dragged, or pushed up by spars against the stream. With ropes, they -can be pulled a mile and a half in the hour; and they attach these to -the mast-head, to have a better purchase. The helm is shaped like the -letter P, and in the larger vessels is managed by ropes from each side; -at a distance, it seems quite detached from the doondee. These vessels -are also furnished with a long supple oar astern, which they work -backwards and forwards, the steersman moving with it on an elevated -frame. It is possible to impel the doondee with this oar alone, and -nothing else is used in crossing the different ferries. When coming -down with the stream, this oar, too, is again in requisition, they work -it to and fro, to keep the broadside of the vessel to the current. In -descending the river, the masts are invariably struck, and the helm -even is stowed away. I can compare these boats to nothing so correctly -as the drawing of Chinese junks; the largest are about eighty feet -long and eighteen broad, shaped something like a ship high astern and -low in front, with the hull slanted off at both ends, so as to present -less resistance to the water. They are floating houses; for the people -who navigate them take their families, and even their herds and fowls, -along with them. All the boats on the river, large and small, are of -the above description. In navigating the doondees, the boatmen always -choose the shallow water, and avoid the rapids of the river. - -~Indus navigable for steam vessels.~ - -From the account of the River Indus at its mouths, which is above -given, it will appear that it would be accessible to steam-boats of -a certain size and build; but I am thoroughly satisfied that no boat -_with a keel_ could ever navigate this river with any hopes of safety. -The flat-bottomed boats are constantly grounding, but they sustain no -injury; while boats differently constructed would be at once upset by -the violence of the stream, and destroyed. It is not to be doubted, -however, that steam-vessels could be adapted to this navigation as well -as the existing boats on the river; and had not coal been found both at -the head and mouth of the Indus, fuel could be supplied from the great -abundance of wood which the banks of this river every where furnish. -The Americans use wood for this purpose; and the supply of brushwood on -the Lower Indus is abundant. - -~Military remarks on the Indus.~ - -I make allusion to the navigation of this river by steam, because I am -aware it is an object of interest; but, in conducting any expedition -against Sinde, I feel satisfied, from what I have seen, that there -would be little advantage, in a military point of view, derived from -the river Indus below Tatta. It would be impracticable to march a force -through the Delta, from the number of rivers; and it would be equally -impossible to embark it in flat-bottomed boats, for there are not 100 -of them below Hydrabad; few are of burthen, and the very largest would -not contain a company of infantry. The vulnerable point of Sinde is -Curachee, and a landing might be effected on either side of the town -without difficulty. The Creek of Gisry, to the south-east, has been -pointed out[22] as a favourable place, and I can add my concurrence -in the opinion; but a force would easily effect its disembarkation -anywhere in that neighbourhood. For a land expedition, the route from -Cutch to Ballyaree, by the Thurr, seems to me the most feasible. While -I represent the mouths of the Indus as unfavourable for conducting an -attack from India on Sinde, I do not wish to be understood as hazarding -at this time any opinion on like obstacles presenting themselves in an -attack from its banks on India. - -~Supplies of the Delta.~ - -With regard to the supplies which an army is to expect in the lower -parts of Sinde, my report will be more favourable. Grain, that is, rice -and bajree, will be found in great abundance. Horned cattle and sheep -are numerous. The pasturage is not good, but near the sea abundant. -Almost all the villages are mere hamlets; for Darajee, Lahory, and -Shahbunder, which figure on the map as places of importance, have -none of them a population of 2000 souls. The two first, indeed, have -not that between them; and there are not ten other places that have a -hundred souls below Tatta. Camels would be found in great abundance, -as also horses: these are of a small and diminutive breed, but the -camels are very superior. From the number of buffaloes, milk and ghee -are to be had in great abundance, and all the rivers abound in fish. -The country is peopled to the sea-shore; but the inhabitants are -thinly scattered over its surface in temporary villages; and near many -of the mouths experience great inconvenience from the want of fresh -water, which they bring from a distance for themselves and cattle: the -banks of the Gora form the only exception. The people consist chiefly -of erratic and pastoral tribes; for though the Indus presents such -facilities to the cultivator, there is not a fourth of the cultivable -land below Tatta brought under tillage; it lies neglected and overgrown -with tamarisk. - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[20] This limited extent of the delta of the Indus is quite -inconsistent with the dimensions assigned to it by the Greeks. Arrian -informs us that the two great branches below Pattala are about 1800 -stadia distant from each other, “and so much is the extent of the -island Pattala along the sea coast.” The distance of 125 British miles, -the face of the modern delta, does not amount to 1125 stadia, or little -more than one half the assigned distance of Arrian. On this point the -Greeks had not personal observation to guide them, since Nearchus -sailed out of the western branch of the Indus, and Alexander made but -a three days’ journey between the two branches of the river, and could -not have entered Cutch, as has been surmised by Dr. Vincent. - -[21] See “A Memoir” regarding this mouth, at the end of the volume, -which contains an account of some singular alterations in physical -geography, as well as a notice of the Run of Cutch. - -[22] By Mr. Crow. - - - - -CHAP. V. - -ON THE DELTA OF THE INDUS. - - -~Delta of the Indus.~ - -Herodotus said of Egypt, that it was the “gift of the Nile;” the same -may be said of the country at the mouths of the Indus. A section of -the banks of the river shows a continued succession of earth, clay and -sand in layers, parallel to one another; and deposited, without doubt, -at different periods. It would be perhaps hazarding too much to state, -that the whole of the Delta has been gradually acquired from the sea; -but it is clear that the land must have greatly encroached on the -ocean. Nothing is more corroborative of this fact than the shallowness -of the sea out from the mouths of the Indus, and the clayey bottom and -tinge of the water. - -~Inundation.~ - -The country from Tatta, which stands at the head of the Delta, to the -sea downwards, is in most parts influenced by the periodical swell -of the Indus: the great branches of this river are of themselves so -numerous, and throw off such an incredible number of arms, that the -inundation is general; and in those places which are denied this -advantage by fortuitous circumstances, artificial drains, about four -feet wide and three deep, conduct the waters through the fields. The -swell commences in the latter end of April, and continues to increase -till July, disappearing altogether in September: a northerly wind is -supposed to accelerate it. It begins with the melting of the snow in -the Himalaya mountains, before the rainy season. At other times the -land is irrigated with the Persian wheel, which is turned by a camel or -bullock, and in general use every where. One eighth of the Delta may -be occupied by beds of rivers and inferior streams. Ten miles from the -sea, the country is so thickly covered with furze and bushes, that it -is incapable of being brought under tillage. Close upon the sea coast, -however, there is abundance of green forage, which furnishes pasture -to large herds of buffaloes. These animals reward the herdsmen with an -abundant supply of ghee; but his labour is incessant, for he must bring -fresh water from the interior for himself and his herd. - -~Towns.~ - -In a tract peopled by a pastoral race, there are few permanent towns or -villages. When we except Darajee, Vikkur, Shahbunder, Mughribee, and -one or two others, the inhabitants reside in temporary villages called -“raj,” which they remove at pleasure; their huts are constructed of -reeds and mats made from rice straw; each house is surrounded by a -grass “tatty” or fence, to exclude the cold wind and humid vapours -which prevail in this low country, and are considered noxious. These -are the houses of which Nearchus speaks, and are, I believe, peculiar -to the river Indus. They very much resemble the huts of tumblers in -India. - -~Population.~ - -It becomes a difficult matter to form any correct opinion as to the -number of inhabitants in such a country, where the body of the people -are wanderers, and not confined to narrow limits: huts are, however, to -be seen every where, and, excluding the city of Tatta, the population -of the Delta cannot be rated at less than 30,000 souls; of this -estimate, one third may be composed of those who reside in the fixed -towns. This census gives seven and a half to the square mile. - -~Tribes.~ - -The erratic tribe, in the Delta of the Indus, is called Jut; these -people are the aborigines of the country; they are a superstitious -race of Mahommedans, and exceedingly ignorant. The different banks of -the rivers are peopled by watermen of the tribe of Mooana; they are -emigrants from the Punjab, and are employed in navigating the boats, -or fishing in the sea or river. There is also another tribe from the -same country, called Seik Lobana, whose occupation it is to make -reeds and mats. They also kill wild animals and game, but are held -in no estimation by the rest of the people. Jookeas or Jukreeas, an -aboriginal race from the mountains over Curachee, are to be found, -but they are not numerous. Some of their chiefs have land assigned to -them. There are also a few Beloochees. On the fixed population there is -little to remark; it is chiefly composed of Hindoos, of the mercantile -caste, who carry on the foreign and internal commerce of Sinde. They do -not differ from their brethren in India. - -~Jokeea tribe.~ - -The only tribe which calls for further comment, is that of Jokeea. -These people are the descendants of the Suma Rajpoots, who governed -Sinde in former years. They became converts to the Mahommedan faith -when the Hindoo dynasty was subverted, and still retain the Hindoo name -of their tribe, and claim consanguinity with the Jhareja Rajpoots of -Cutch. They are mountaineers from the west bank of the Indus, not very -numerous, and little favoured by the government. They can bring 2000 -men into the field. - -~Fisheries.~ - -The fisheries in the river, and out from its different mouths, are -extensive. They are chiefly carried on by hooks, and some of the fish -caught are of enormous dimensions. One species called “Kujjooree” is -killed for its sound, which, with the fins of small sharks that abound -near the Indus, form an article of export to China. The river fish are -likewise abundant; of these, the most remarkable is the “Pulla,” a kind -of carp, delicious in flavour, and only found in the four months that -precede the swell of the river. Another species, called the “Singalee,” -and about the size of a small haddock, likewise abounds. On the -approach of the tide, they make a noise under the ship, louder than a -bull frog. They have a large head, and are very bony. They exist in all -the rivers of Western India, and are not peculiar to the Indus. - -~Animals.~ - -I am not aware that there are any animals peculiar to the Delta of the -Indus. Otters abound; camels are numerous, and superior; buffaloes are -reared in great numbers; horned cattle and sheep are plentiful. The -dog, too, is here elevated to his proper situation, and is an attendant -on man. They watch the flocks, and are of a ferocious description, and -will not allow a stranger to approach a “raj” or village; they swim the -rivers with great dexterity. - -~Productions.~ - -The staple production of the Delta of the Indus is rice: it is to be -had of many different kinds, but its value seems to depend chiefly on -its preparation for the market. Bajree and all other Indian grains are -raised. From extensive plantations of cane, “goor,” a coarse kind of -sugar, is produced; which, with wheat, barley, and moong, are reared by -irrigating the fields from cuts to the river, some months before the -periodical swell, and form what may be called a second crop. Saltpetre -is found in the Delta, but it is not exported, though formerly an -object of commerce to the East India Company. - -~Climate.~ - -The climate of Lower Sinde is sultry and disagreeable. The thermometer -ranges as high as 90° in March, and though the soil is a rich alluvium, -the dust blows incessantly. The dews are very heavy and dangerous. -It is in every respect a trying country to the human constitution, -and this was observable in the premature old age of the inhabitants. -I could not hear of their being subject to any marsh fever, or other -evil effect from the inundation; they confined their complaints to -the inconvenience and annoyance which they suffered from insects and -musquitoes generated in the mud. - - - - -CHAP. VI. - -THE INDUS FROM TATTA TO HYDRABAD. - - -~Indus from Tatta to Hydrabad.~ - -From the city of Tatta, which stands at a distance of three miles from -the river, we cease to have the Indus separated into many channels. -On the right bank it is confined by low rocky hillocks of limestone -formation; and on the left there is but one narrow branch, the -Pinyaree, which is accessible to boats from the town of Mughribee, when -the superfluous water of the floods follows its course to the sea. Yet -the general width of the channel is less than half a mile; at Hydrabad -it is but 830 yards, at Tatta less than 700, and below the village -Hilaya, fifteen miles from that town, it does not indeed exceed 600. -The greatest depth of water lies opposite the capital, and is five -fathoms; the least at Tatta, where it is but fifteen feet; generally, -there is a depth of twenty feet. - -~Its sand-banks.~ - -The Delta of the Indus is free from sand-banks; from Tatta to Hydrabad, -they occur every where, and, as the sides of the river are here more -frequently shelving than steep, it is difficult to discover the deep -channel, which perplexes the navigator. Many of these sand-banks -are but knee deep in the water, and are constantly shifting their -position; the current being less rapid than near the sea, they are -not easily swept away. In several places they have become islands, -and divide the stream into two channels, one of which will _always_ -be found navigable. This subdivision of the river has occasioned many -of these branches being given as separate rivers in our maps, but, as -I have before stated, none such exist, excepting the Pinyaree. In the -floods there is a narrow channel above Triccul, communicating with the -Fulailee branch, which insulates Hydrabad at that season. - -~Course and extent.~ - -The distance by land from Tatta to Hydrabad is less than fifty miles, -nor do the windings of the stream increase it, even by water, to -sixty-five. Its course is south-west by south, and rather direct, with -one decided turn, below Jurruk, where it throws off the river leading -to Mughribee. We made the voyage against the stream in two days. - -~Towns, &c.~ - -There are not a dozen places between Tatta and the capital; the only -one of note is Jurruk, situated near some low rocky hillocks, nor does -it boast a population of 1500 souls: none of them are fortified. - -~Country.~ - -This country, which might be one of the richest and most productive -in the world, is devoted to sterility. Hunting preserves, or, as they -are called, “shikargahs,” follow one another in such succession, -as to leave no land for tillage; and the fences which confine the -game approach within a few yards of the Indus. The interior of these -preserves forms a dense thicket, composed of tamarisk, saline shrubs, -and other underwood, with stunted trees of bramble, which are not -allowed to be pruned or cut; so that the banks of the Indus, if in the -hands of a formidable enemy, afford cover from which an expedition -conducted by water might be constantly and grievously harassed. The -roads through this tract are equally close and strong. - -Neglected as is this portion of Sinde, it is not destitute of supply; -grain is cheap and plentiful everywhere. Tatta and Hydrabad are the -ancient and modern capitals of the country. - -~Productions.~ - -The productions of the soil in the gardens of Tatta exhibit the -fertility of this land: the vine is successfully reared, as also the -fig and the pomegranate. There are apple-trees in abundance, and though -the fruit is small, it increases in size about Hydrabad. In the few -patches of cultivation may be seen indigo, tobacco, sugar-cane, with -wheat, barley, and all the other Indian grains; but it is the policy -of the rulers of Sinde to keep every thing in a state of nature, that -their territories may not excite the cupidity of surrounding states. -Agriculture and commerce are alike depressed. - -~Trade.~ - -With regard to the trade of this country, it may be said there is -little or none anywhere but at Curachee. The Indus is as if it existed -not; and, though grain is sent by it to the delta, no advantage is -taken of the river to convey goods to Hydrabad. The imports are landed -at Curachee, and the most valuable export, which is Malwa opium, is -shipped from the same port. The merchants, in prosecuting their journey -to Candahar, and the upper provinces of the Indus, quit the Sindian -territories with all dispatch. The only encouragement which the chiefs -give to trade is in opium, yet they levy the exorbitant duty of 250 -rupees for a camel-load. The revenue from this article alone amounted -last year it is said to seven lacs of rupees; a sum equal to the land -revenue of the Hydrabad Ameer. - -~Means of improving it.~ - -Nor do there exist any hopes of improving or increasing commercial -intercourse by this river, till the rulers of it have more just -notions of policy, and some one of them, more enlightened than the -rest, discovers that the true riches of a country are to be found -by encouraging the people in industry and art. At present there is -no wealth in Sinde but what is possessed by its rulers; and had the -people the inclination, they have not the means of purchasing the -manufactures of Europe. The case was otherwise in the beginning of this -century, when the East India Company traded at Tatta by a factory, and -the rulers, intimidated by their lord paramount in Cabool, did not -object to the transit of goods to that and other countries. Sinde must -follow the fate of that portion of Asia; and, if any of the Dooranee -tribes be yet able to seize the crown of Cabool, we may expect a change -for the better in the dependent provinces at the mouths of the Indus. - -~Boats, deficiency thereof.~ - -At present there are not vessels sufficient for any considerable trade: -between the capital and Tatta they do not exceed fifty, many of them -small and used for fishing, others old and worn out, that cross the -stream in certain places as ferry-boats. Encouragement would soon -remedy what may be considered a defect in a military, as well as a -commercial point of view. Sinde has no wood for ship building, that -which is used being imported from Malabar. - - - - -CHAP. VII. - -FROM HYDRABAD TO SEHWUN. - - -~Sehwun, its position.~ - -The town of Sehwun stands at a distance of two miles from the west bank -of the Indus, and is exactly 1° of latitude north of Hydrabad, for it -is crossed by the parallel of 26° 22´. The voyage is performed in eight -days, against the stream, and the distance is 105 miles. - -~Indus, its course and depth.~ - -The river, in this part of its course, is named “Lar,” which, in the -Belooch language, means south: it flows about S. S. E., being resisted -at Sehwun by rocky mountains, which change the direction of the stream. -Its banks are very low, and the country bordering on them frequently -overflowed, particularly on the eastern side: the western bank is more -firm, but seldom exceeds eight feet in height. This expansion of the -river diminishes its general depth to eighteen feet: during the swell -the increase is twelve feet additional; the width is frequently 1000 -yards and upwards. About six miles above Hydrabad, the Indus divides -into two channels, one of which is fordable, and the other but 400 -yards wide, which points to this as the place for crossing an army. -At Sehwun the rocky buttress of the Lukkee hills hems the waters into -a channel of 500 yards; but the depth is nearly forty feet, and the -current rapid. - -~Fulailee River.~ - -The river throws off no branches, in this part of its course, save -the Fulailee, which leaves the Indus twelve miles above Hydrabad, and -passes eastward of that city: it is only a stream during the swell. -It was dry at Hydrabad when we were at that city, and but a 100 yards -wide, and knee-deep where it separated from the Indus; yet it is a very -considerable river in the wet season, and fertilises a vast portion of -Sinde by its water, which it may be said to exhaust between Hydrabad -and Cutch. The maps give most erroneous ideas of the Indus, for the -numerous branches which appear to leave the river are only water -courses for the periodical swell, many of them artificial, dug for the -purposes of irrigation. The river for nine months runs in one trunk to -Tatta. - -~Current, and effects of it.~ - -The current never exceeds three miles an hour in this part of the -Indus, unless at some places where it is confined, when its rapidity -undermines its banks, and carries villages along with it. The towns of -Majindu and Amree, on the right bank, have both been swept away, the -former no less than eight or ten times within the last twelve years; -but the people retire a few hundred yards, and again erect their -habitations. Hala, on the eastern side, has shared a like fate; but -the channel of the river lies to the westward, where the banks are -more steep, and the left bank of the river, though consisting of a -flat field of sand, is only inundated in the swell. At that period, -for eight miles eastward of the Indus, it is not possible to travel -from the number of shoots the river casts off. The Indus itself is here -pretty constant in its course; and, though the country eastward would, -as I have observed, favour the escape of the water in that direction, -it clings for some time to the Lukkee mountains. - -~Its military importance.~ - -This section of the river is of great importance: about two miles below -Sehwun these mountains run in upon the Indus, leaving two practicable -passes over them. The one leads across a depressed part of the range, -called Buggotora, westward of the village of Lukkee (which signifies -a pass), and might be obstinately defended: it is not a gun-road. The -other passes between the river and the mountains, and is a cart-road, -running in a valley among the lower rocks, at the base of the Lukkee -mountains. The ground is very strong for about two miles. - -~Crossing the Indus.~ - -I have before mentioned that the river near Sehwun is confined to a -narrow bed. The right bank is very remarkable, consisting of a natural -buttress of solid rock, about fifty feet high, which extends for 400 -yards along the river, and, slanting upwards, is barely accessible to -a foot passenger. The Indus passes with such a sweep under the base of -this rampart, that, though but 500 yards wide, I question if a bridge -could be thrown across it. There is a more favourable place immediately -north of this precipice, where the breadth is but 100 yards greater, -and the water more still. Thirty or forty flat-bottomed boats would -always be found at Sehwun: they lie on the left bank, which is flat and -sandy. There are good roads from Sehwun to Hydrabad on both sides of -the Indus; and there is a footpath along the base of the mountains to -Curachee. - -~Navigation of the Indus.~ - -The river can only be navigated by dragging the boat against the -stream, for there is very little wind in the upper parts of Sinde: the -progress by this method is sure, and averages from fifteen to twenty -miles a day. It would be impossible, without steam, to conduct any -military expedition against the stream of the Indus, for the labour of -dragging the boats would be great, from constant accidents, by ropes -breaking, and the vessels being hurried into the stream. The case would -be very different in an army descending the Indus. Trading vessels, -however, would not be liable to any such impediments. We only counted -180 boats in our progress from Hydrabad to Sehwun. - -~Towns, country.~ - -Of the country and towns which intervene between Sehwun and the -capital, a few words will suffice. There are none of any size but -Sehwun itself: Muttaree, sixteen miles from Hydrabad, contains 4000 -people; and Hala, Beyan, Majindu, and Sen about 2000 each. The other -places are few, and thinly peopled: three or four of them have -frequently one name. The country is much neglected, the banks of the -river are, in most places, covered with tamarisk, towards the hills -it is open. Cotton, indigo, wheat, barley, sugar, tobacco, &c. are -produced by irrigation in the dry season; but the limited extent of the -cultivation may be discovered, by their being but 194 wells, or cuts, -from the river on one side of the Indus, between Hydrabad and Sehwun, a -distance of 100 miles, where the greater part of the soil is rich and -cultivable. In a few places the land is salt and sterile. Rice is only -produced during the swell, and yet provisions are dearer here than in -the neighbouring and less favoured country of Marwar. The people live -chiefly on fish and milk. - -~Sehwun.~ - -The town of Sehwun bears alone the marks of opulence in this portion of -Sinde; and it is indebted for its prosperity to the shrine of a holy -saint from Khorasan, by name Lal Shah baz, whose tomb is a place of -pilgrimage from afar to Hindoo and Mussulman. A branch of the Indus, -called Arrul, runs immediately past the town, in its course from -Larkhana; but this will be described in the next chapter. Four years -since, the Indus passed close under Sehwun; but it has retired, and -left a swamp on all sides of the town. About Sehwun the country is -rich and productive, and the bazar is well supplied. Looking north, -the eye rests on a verdant plain, highly cultivated, which extends to -the base of the mountains: mulberries, apples, melons, and cucumbers -grow here; the grain crops are luxuriant, and, for the first time, we -saw gram. The melons are tasteless, I presume from the richness of the -soil: cucumbers grow in Sinde only at Sehwun. The climate is sultry, -oppressive, and disagreeable. - -~Lukkee mountains. Runna.~ - -The Lukkee mountains run in upon the Indus at Sehwun, extending from -near the seaport of Curachee, and gradually encroaching upon the -river, till they meet in a bold buttress. The elevation of this range -does not, I think, exceed 2000 feet; their formation is limestone; -the summits are flat and rounded, never conical: they are bare of -vegetation, and much furrowed by watercourses, all of which present a -concave turn towards the Indus. There is a hot spring near Sehwun, -at the village of Lukkee, situated at the base of these mountains, -adjoining one of a cold description: the hot spring is a place of -Hindoo pilgrimage, and considered salutary in cutaneous disorders. -There is a spring of the same kind in the neighbourhood of Curachee, at -the other extremity of the same range, so that similar springs would -probably be found in the intervening parts. On this range, and about -sixteen miles westward of Majindu, on the Indus, stands the fortified -hill of Runna, a place of strength in by-gone years, but, till lately, -neglected. The Ameer of Sinde has repaired it at considerable expense; -but, from what I could learn, Runna owes its chief strength to the -absence of water from the bleak mountains which surround it, and the -copious supply within its walls. - - - - -CHAP. VIII. - -THE INDUS, FROM SEHWUN TO BUKKUR. - - -~Bukkur, its position.~ - -The insulated fortress of Bukkur is situated on a rock in the Indus, -between the towns of Roree and Sukkur. It is a degree and twenty -minutes north of Sehwun, being in latitude 27° 4´; and in longitude it -is 56 miles eastward of that town. The distance by the river amounts to -160 miles, and we voyaged it in nine days. - -~Indus.~ - -Between these points the Indus flows in a zigzag course, nearly -south-west, till it is impeded by the Lukkee mountains, below Sehwun. -The intervening country is richly watered by its meanderings, and, -from the lowness of the banks, the tract is disputed by the river and -its ramifications, and formed into numerous islets of the richest -pasture. On the least approach of the swell, both banks are inundated -and irrigated: the superfluous water often forces for itself a passage -into the desert by Omercote, and joins the eastern mouth of the Indus -or Koree, which passes Cutch. The channel of this watercourse commences -above Bukkur, and passes four miles eastward of that place, the -ancient city of Alore. - -~Fertility of the country.~ - -About twenty-five miles below Bukkur, the Indus sends to the westward -a branch called Nara, that washes the base of the Hala, or mountains -of Beloochistan, and, after pursuing a parallel course of many miles, -rejoins the river at Sehwun. Its waters are courted, and distributed -by canals, which add to the blessings bestowed by nature on this flat -and fertile land. The eastern bank, though less favoured than the -opposite one, is highly cultivated, and most of the towns and villages -stand on the verge of canals, which bounteously distribute the waters -of the periodical swell, and attest the industry and assiduity of the -inhabitants. - -~Current, depth, &c.~ - -The river but rarely flows here in one undivided stream; with a width -of three quarters of a mile, in some places, it preserves a depth of -fifteen feet in its shallowest bed. There is nothing approaching to a -ford in any part of its course: two hundred boats would be found at -the various villages in this part of the river. The declivity on which -the Indus runs to the ocean must be gentle, for above the delta it -glides sluggishly along at less than two miles and a half in the hour. -From Sehwun upwards, the Indus is called “Sira,” which means north, -in contradistinction to the southern portion, which is called “Lar.” -Mehran is a foreign term, with which the natives of the country are not -acquainted. - -~Eastern bank of the Indus.~ - -The immediate vicinity of the Indus is alike destitute of beauty and -inhabitants. It is overgrown with tamarisk shrubs, and the villages -are purposely raised at the distance of two or three miles, to avoid -the calamities of inundation; yet there were an hundred wheels at -work on the verge of the river. The eastern bank, from Sehwun to -Bukkur, is by far the best peopled portion of Sinde; but the inhabited -places which do occur are rather numerous and thriving than large and -wealthy: many of them have 500 houses. This territory is subject to -the chief of Khyrpoor, and is enriched by a canal forty feet broad, -called “Meerwah,” which conducts, by a southerly course, the waters -of the Indus from the neighbourhood of Bukkur to a distance of ninety -miles, where they are lost in sands, or deposited in the fields. There -are numerous other canals beside the one which I have now described; -and, while their banks are fringed with villages and agriculture, they -likewise afford the means of transporting, by boats, the produce of the -soil. In the fair season, when dry, they become the beaten footpaths -of the people, and are excellent cart-roads, preferred at all times to -the common pathway, which, from the exuberance of vegetation in this -country, is generally impeded by bushes. - -~Western bank of the Indus.~ - -The western bank of the Indus, which is intersected by the Nara, is -called Chandkoh, from a Belooche tribe of that name, and yields the -greater portion of the land revenue of the Hydrabad Ameers. This -branch, which leaves the Indus below Bukkur, in the latitude of -Larkhana, in its passage to the main stream, forms a small lake, called -Munchur, which abounds in fish. Further down, it changes the name of -Nara into that of Arrul, before falling into the Indus; it is a narrow -river, about 100 yards broad, and only navigable during the inundation. -Numerous cuts, the chief of which is the Larkhana canal, extend the -cultivation beyond its banks; and, in addition to the swell of the -Indus, this district is watered by rills from the lofty mountains to -the westward. The lake of Munchur is environed by fields of wheat in -the dry season: its waters then partially subside, and leave a rich -mould on which good crops are reared. - -~Fort of Bukkur.~ - -The fortress of Bukkur is constructed of brick, on a low rocky island -of flint, at a distance of 400 yards from the left bank of the Indus, -and about fifty less from the eastern side of the river. Its walls are -loop-holed, and flanked with towers, that slope to the water’s edge: -they do not exceed twenty feet in height. There is a gateway on each -side of the fortification facing Roree and Sukkur, and likewise two -wickets. The interior of the works is crowded with houses and mosques, -many of which, as well as parts of the rock itself, appear above -the wall. In shape it approaches to an oval, and is about 800 yards -long, and 300 in diameter. At some places the rock has been pared and -scraped; but Bukkur has no strength in its works, and is formidable -only from its position. The garrison consists of 100 men of the -Khyrpoor Ameer: there are fifteen pieces of artillery, few of which are -serviceable. The walls enclose the entire island, with the exception -of a small date grove on the northern side, where a landing might be -effected without difficulty, from the right bank, and the place would -fall by escalade; or it might be previously breached from the bank -of the river. There is a depth of four fathoms on both sides of the -island; but the eastern channel becomes shallow in the dry season, and -is said to have been once forded. The navigation of the Indus at Bukkur -is dangerous, from eddies formed under the fortress itself; and several -other rocky islets below it; but the watermen are considered the most -experienced in Sinde, and, as a boat never attempts to pass up or down -without a pilot, there are but few accidents. - -~Roree and Sukkur.~ - -The town of Roree, which faces Bukkur, stands close on the bank of -the Indus, on a flinty precipice forty feet in height, over which the -houses tower. A road cut in the rock, down to the edge of the river, -at a place where it does not approach the precipice, is the point -of embarkation for those passing to Bukkur; but a landing would be -difficult and dangerous when the river is high. The town of Roree has -about 8000 inhabitants, chiefly Hindoos. To the eastward of it, several -detached hillocks of flint present a most bleak and barren appearance, -but add to the strength of the country; beyond their limits a grove -of date trees extends for three or four miles to the southward of the -town, shading numerous orchards and gardens. Sukkur, which stands -opposite Roree, is about half the size of that town: both have been -considerable places in former years, and the ruins of minarets and -mosques remain. The bank of the river at Sukkur is not precipitous, and -the town runs in from it, instead of extending, like Roree, along its -banks. These two towns doubtless owe their position to Bukkur, which, -as a protection in troubled times, added to the courage and hopes of -the inhabitants. - -~Khyrpoor and Larkhana.~ - -The only modern towns of note which require remark, are Khyrpoor and -Larkhana, on the left and right banks of the river, nearly under the -same parallel of latitude, both distant from it about fourteen miles, -and watered by canals from the Indus. Khyrpoor is a modern town, built -by the Talpoor chief, Sohrab, who seized on the northern part of Sinde, -after the subversion of the Caloras. It contains a population of about -15,000 souls, but is merely a collection of mud hovels heaped together -in narrow lanes. It is destitute of fort or defence, unless a mud wall -about a foot thick, which surrounds the house of the Ameer and his -family, can be considered in that light. The country near it is flat -and bushy, and a low dyke has been drawn round the town, to keep the -inundations of the river at a distance. Larkhanu, which stands on the -western bank, is the capital of the Pergunna of Chandkoh: it has about -10,000 people, and is the head quarters and rallying point of the -Sinde Ameers on their N. W. frontier. It has a small mud fort; and an -inefficient train of artillery, about twenty in number, frightens the -refractory in the neighbouring mountains, and maintains the peace of -Sinde. It is governed by a Nuwab, the individual next in rank to the -rulers of the land. - -~Productions.~ - -The productions of Sinde are very similar in different parts of the -country, and the same kinds of grain are produced here as at Sehwun. -There is a shrub very like the wall-flower called “syar,” that -grows in this tract, and the juice of which is considered a valuable -medicine for the diseases of children. The wheat-fields are invariably -surrounded by a low dyke, like rice ground: tobacco grows very -luxuriantly near Roree. The greatest want in Sinde is grass, which is -choked by the tamarisk; to which the people set fire, and derive, by -such means, an abundant crop. There are but few trees in Sinde; the -babool[23], even, does not attain any considerable size; the neem[24] -and sirs, so abundant in India, are rarely seen, and the banian[25] -tree is a stranger. The shrubs of the thurr, the kejra, khair, bair, -akra (swallow-wort), and tamarisk, grow every where. I have already -alluded to the date grove of Roree. - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[23] Mimosa Arabica. - -[24] Melia Azadarachta. - -[25] Ficus religiosa. - - - - -CHAP. IX. - -THE INDUS FROM BUKKUR, TILL JOINED BY THE PUNJAB RIVERS. - - -~The Indus.~ - -The waters of the Punjab, united in one stream, fall into the Indus at -Mittun, in the latitude of 28° 55´ north. From this point to Bukkur, -the river pursues a south-westerly course, is direct in its channel, -but frequently divided by sand banks. Various narrow, crooked branches -also diverge from the parent stream, retaining a depth from eight to -fifteen feet of water, which are navigated by boats ascending the -Indus, in preference to the great river itself. They extend throughout -the whole intervening space which I have now under review. - -~Its breadth and depth.~ - -The Indus is widely spread in many parts of its course above Bukkur. It -often exceeds a thousand yards in breadth, and at Mittun was found to -be even double that width. The depth was not proportionally diminished: -in some places it exceeded sixteen fathoms, and four fathoms were to be -found every where; which, it is to be recollected, was at a season when -the waters are lowest. There was no greater acceleration of current -than in the lower parts of the river, and the serpentine course of the -narrows just mentioned proves the great flatness of this country. - -~Boats of the Indus.~ - -From Bukkur the Indus is navigated by a different description of -boat from the Doondee, called “zohruk,” and admirably adapted to the -transport of troops, both horse and foot, from being as roomy before as -astern: they are not numerous, but we met ninety-five of them in our -voyage to Mittun. We made the passage in these boats from Bukkur to -Mittun in nine days, a distance of 170 miles by the river. - -~Country on its banks.~ - -The country which this portion of the Indus traverses is of the richest -nature, particularly on the eastern bank, where it is flooded from -innumerable channels, which are generally cut in those parts of the -river running east and west, that the water may be thrown south into -the interior. On the right bank, about twenty-six miles above Bukkur, a -navigable canal called the “Sinde,” the work of the emperors, conducts -a great body of water to Shikarpoor and Noushera, and joins that of -Larkhanu. On that side of the river the cultivation is limited, as the -districts of Boordgah, Ken, and Moozarka, which succeed each other, -are peopled by wandering and unsettled Belooche tribes, who lead a -pastoral and plundering life. The territory on both sides chiefly -belongs to Sinde, for the boundary line stretches, on the right bank, -to within fifteen miles of Mittun, and adjoining the dominions of the -Seik; but it overlaps that on the left, which terminates lower down in -the latitude of 28° 33´, twenty-five miles above Subzul. This stripe -of land on the left bank forms a portion of the territories of the -Daoodpootra chief, Bhawul Khan; and the district immediately below that -chief’s territory in Sinde is named Oobaro, and inhabited by the Duhrs -and Muhrs, who are the aborigines of the country, and known by the name -of Sindees. - -~Shikarpoor, Subzul, and other places.~ - -The town of Shikarpoor, which stands thirty-two miles from Bukkur, -is by far the largest in this tract, indeed in Sinde, for in size -it exceeds the capital, Hydrabad. The country around it is very -productive, but in the change of masters, from the Afghans to the -Sindians, its revenue has deteriorated to half a lac of rupees -annually: the government is oppressive. It still carries on an -extensive inland trade, for the greater portion of its merchants and -people are Hindoos, and have agents in the surrounding countries. -Shikarpoor is surrounded by a mud wall, and the governor of the place -holds an important post, and with it the title of Nuwab. This town and -district fell into the hands of the Sindians about eight years ago, and -is the only unsettled portion of their country, the Afghan family to -whom it belonged making frequent attempts to recover it. The frontier -town of Subzul on the left bank of the Indus, and twelve miles inland, -is about one fifth the size of Shikarpoor: it contains a population of -5000 souls, and like it is surrounded by a mud wall. There are no other -places of note but these which I have mentioned. Mittun, or, as it is -sometimes called, Mittun Kote, has not a population of 1500 people, and -its fort has been demolished. - -~Swell of the Indus.~ - -It will be observed in this part of its course, as well as elsewhere, -that there are no towns or places of size in the immediate vicinity of -the Indus; which is owing to the annual swell of the river rendering it -impossible to cultivate or raise a crop within its reach. This leads to -the waters being conducted inland by canals, the banks of which being -frequently overflowed render the country untenable. The neighbourhood -of Subzul Kote has been deserted on this account, and the great -quantity of water forces for itself a channel from this direction upon -the watercourse at Alore. The Indus is very variable in its rise in -different years, and for these two by-gone seasons has not attained its -usual height. - -~Cattle, animals, &c.~ - -The number of horned cattle to be seen in this part of the Indus is -exceedingly numerous. Buffaloes are so plentiful as to be only a -fourth the value of those lower down the river, and the very best may -be purchased for ten rupees each. Deer, hog, and partridge abound, and -the water-fowl above Bukkur are numerous, even in this season (May). - -~Tribes bordering on the Indus.~ - -I have mentioned the districts lying westward of the Indus, and the -predatory habits of the inhabitants. The Boordees occupy all the -plains north of Shikarpoor, to the borders of the Brahooee country, -or Cutch Gundava. They are emigrants from Kej and Mekran, and of the -Belooche family of Rind. They are a fair and handsome race of men, more -like Afghans than Beloochees: they do not wear the costume of Sinde, -but roll a cloth in folds loosely round their brows, and allow their -hair in long tresses to hang suspended, which gives them a savage -appearance. They took the name of Boordee, from a noted individual in -the tribe, according to the Belooche custom, for the various tribes -are nothing more than descendants of some person of note. The chief -place of the Boordees is Duree, but they have no large towns. The whole -“Oolooss,” or tribe, is rated at 10,000 fighting men, and till their -chiefs were taken into the service of the Ameers, they were constantly -marauding: petty robberies are yet committed. Their language is a -corrupted Persian: of the other tribes, the Juttooees, Moozarees, -Boogtees, and Kulphurs, with many more, they differ from the Boordees -only in name. The Juttooees are to be found in Boordgah: the Moozarees, -whose chief town is Rozan, extend as far as Dera Ghazee Khan, but their -power is now broken, though they plundered in former times the armies -of Cabool. The Kulphurs and Boogtees occupy the hills called Gendaree, -which commence below the latitude of Mittun, and run parallel with the -Indus. - - - - -CHAP. X. - -THE INDUS FROM MITTUN TO ATTOK. - - -~The Indus above Mittun.~ - -While on our progress to Mooltan, by the Chenab or Acesines, I made -various enquiries, and sent different people to acquire precise -information, regarding the Indus above Mittun. The Cabool mission in -1809 came upon that river, at Oodoo da Kote, about 100 miles north of -the point in question; and I was desirous of connecting my own surveys -with that place, and thus complete our knowledge of the Indus from the -sea to Attok. - -~Description of it.~ - -The river runs, in this part of its course, nearly due south, and is -free from danger and difficulty in navigation. It is here generally -known by the name of Sinde or Attok, and traverses a country much the -same as I have described near Mittun, being often widely spread from -the lowness of its banks. Its breadth is considerably diminished; for -at Kaheree, when Mr. Elphinstone crossed it in January, the soundings -did not exceed twelve feet, with a breadth of 1000 yards, while the -Indus, after it has received the Punjab rivers, rolls past Mittun with -a width exactly twofold. On the left bank, too, the soundings were -found to be four fathoms deep. - -~Province of Dera Ghazee Khan.~ - -On the right bank of the river the province of Dera Ghazee Khan -occupies the country as far as the mountains. It is a fertile -territory, and the capital which bears its name is one of the largest -towns on the Indus. It is surrounded by gardens and date groves, -and stands in a very rich country: it has been long numbered among -the conquests of the Seiks, who farmed it, till lately, to the Khan -of Bhawulpoor at an annual rent of six lacs of rupees; but as the -district originally produced but four, every species of extortion was -practised which led to its late resumption. The tract being remote from -Runjeet Sing’s dominions, he is anxious to hold it without requiring -the services of his troops; and the Maharajah has given Dajil and -some portion of the territory to the Brahooees, its former owners, on -condition of military service. - -~Commerce, in line of route.~ - -The productions of Demaun, and the countries westward of the Indus, are -sometimes brought by Dera Ghazee Khan, and crossed to Ooch; but the -more frequented route lies higher up, and passing the ferry at Kaheree -leads to Mooltan. The river is not used in the transport of any portion -of the trade, for the hire of boats is exorbitant, and it is sent on -camels or bullocks. Madder (called munjoot) is an article of export -from this part of the Indus, and used to dye the fabrics of Bhawulpoor. - -~Expeditions, why they avoided the Indus.~ - -It is a remarkable fact that the various expeditions that have been -conducted from the upper provinces of the Indus, to the countries -lower down, have taken the rivers of the Punjab, as far as they went, -in preference to the Indus itself; but we are certainly not to infer -therefrom that the greater river is shut against navigation. The -conquests of Alexander led him beyond the neighbourhood of the Indus, -and in the case of the emperors their capital was long fixed at Lahore, -and several of their fleets against lower Sinde were fitted out at -Mooltan, always a city of great importance in the empire, and on a -river as accessible to the boats of the country as the Indus itself. - -~Bridge of boats at Attok.~ - -The Indus has been crossed at Attok, and an account of it, and that -fortress, will be found in Mr. Elphinstone’s work; but the means which -the ruler of Lahore has used of late years to transport his army to -the right bank of the river, and which I heard from his officers, -and afterwards had confirmed on the spot, deserve mention. Runjeet -Sing retains a fleet of thirty-seven boats, for the construction of a -bridge at Attok, where the river is only 260 yards wide. The boats -are anchored in the stream, a short distance from one another, and the -communication is completed by planks, and covered with mud: immediately -below the fortress of Attok, twenty-four boats are only required, but -at other places in the neighbourhood, so many as thirty-seven are used. -Such a bridge can only be thrown across the Indus from November to -April, on account of the velocity of the stream being comparatively -diminished at that season, and even then the manner of fixing the boats -seems incredible. Skeleton frame-works of wood, filled with stones, to -the weight of 250 maunds (25,000 lbs.), and bound strongly by ropes, -are let down from each boat, to the number of four or six, though the -depth exceeds thirty fathoms, and these are constantly strengthened -by others to prevent accident. Such a bridge has been completed in -three days, but six is a more usual period. We are struck with the -singular coincidence between this manner of throwing up a bridge, and -that described by Arrian[26], when Alexander crossed the Indus. He -mentions his belief regarding Alexander’s bridge at Attok, and except -that the skeleton frame-works are described as “huge wicker-baskets,” -the modern and ancient manner of crossing the river appears to have -been the same. The Afghans farmed the construction of a bridge at Attok -for the sum of 14,000 rupees; but the Seik has put a stop to the ruin -of habitations and houses which it invariably caused, and keeps up -an efficient supply of materials. An army which does not exceed 5000 -men is crossed at Attok by the ferry boats with less labour than by a -bridge. - - -FOOTNOTE: - -[26] Vide lib. v. c. 7. - - - - -CHAP. XI. - -THE CHENAB OR ACESINES JOINED BY THE SUTLEGE OR HESUDRUS. - - -~Chenab or Acesines.~ - -The Acesines of the Greeks, or the modern Chenab, is lost in the Indus -at Mittun, having previously gathered the waters of the Punjab rivers. -The junction is formed without noise or violence, for the banks are -depressed on both sides, and the river is expanded: an eddy is cast -to the eastern side, which sinks the water below the usual level, but -it does not occasion danger. The Euphrates and Tigris, when joined, -pass to the ocean under the name of the “river of the Arabs,” and the -appellation of Punjnud, or “the five rivers,” has been bestowed on -this portion of the Chenab; but it is a designation unknown to the -people living on its banks, and adopted, I conclude, for geographical -convenience. - -~Joined by the Sutlege.~ - -Under the parallel of 29° 20´ north latitude, and five miles above -Ooch, the Chenab receives the Garra, or joint stream of the Beas and -Sutlege (Hyphasis and Hesudrus of antiquity). This junction is also -formed without violence, and the low banks of both rivers lead to -constant alteration in the point of the union, which, but a year ago, -was two miles higher up. This circumstance renders it difficult to -decide on the relative size of these rivers at their junction; both are -about 500 yards wide, but the Chenab is more rapid. Immediately below -the confluence, the united stream exceeds 800 yards; but in its course -to the Indus, though it expands sometimes to a greater size, the Chenab -rarely widens to 600 yards. In this part of its course it is likewise -subject to change. The depth is greatest near its confluence with the -Indus, exceeding twenty feet, but it decreases in ascending the river -to about fifteen. The current is swifter than the Indus, running at -the rate of three and a half miles an hour. The Chenab has some sand -banks, but they do not interrupt its navigation by the “zohruks,” or -flat-bottomed boats, forty of which will be found between Ooch and -Mittun, a distance of forty miles, and a five days’ voyage. - -~Banks of the Chenab.~ - -The banks of the Chenab seldom rise three feet above the water’s edge, -and they are more open and free from thick tamarisk than the Indus. -Near the river there are green reeds, not unlike sugar-cane, and a -shrub called “wahun,” with leaves like the beech-tree, but the country -is highly cultivated, and intersected by various canals. The soil is -slimy, and most productive: the crops are rich, and the cattle large -and abundant; the villages are exceedingly numerous, and shaded by -lofty trees. Some of these are the temporary habitations of pastoral -tribes, who remove from one place to another, but there are many of a -permanent description on both banks. Their safety is nowise affected by -the inundations of the river or those of the Indus, for the expansion -of these has been exaggerated, and it rarely extends two miles from the -banks of either river. - -~Ooch, its productions, &c.~ - -The only place of note on the Chenab, below its junction by the Garra, -is Ooch. It stands four miles westward of the river, and no doubt owes -its site to the junction of two navigable streams in the vicinity. -The country around it is highly cultivated: the tobacco plant in -particular grows most luxuriantly; and after the season of inundation, -the tract is one sheet of green fields and verdure. The productions -of the gardens are various; the fig, vine, apple, and mulberry, with -the “falsa,” which produces an acid berry, may be seen, also the -“bedee mishk” (odoriferous willow). Roses, balsams, and the lily of -the valley, excite a pleasing remembrance, and there are many plants -foreign to India. A sensitive shrub, called “shurmoo,” or “the modest,” -particularly struck me: its leaves, when touched, close and fall down -upon the stalk, as if broken. The mango does not attain perfection in -this soil or climate, and seems to deteriorate as we advance north. -Indigo is reared successfully. Wheat and other grains are cultivated in -preference to rice, which does not form here, as in Sinde and the lower -provinces of the Indus, the food of the people, though it may be had in -great quantities. - - - - -CHAP. XII. - -ON BHAWUL KHAN’S COUNTRY. - - -~Its extent.~ - -The small territory eastward of the Indus, which lies between the -confines of the chief of Lahore and the Ameers of Sinde, belongs to -Bhawul Khan Daoodpootra. His frontier to the north may be loosely -said to be bounded by the Sutlege, or Garra, but at Bhawulpoor it -crosses that river, and, running westward to a place called Julalpoor, -comprises a portion of the country between the Sutlege and Acesines, -the Acesines and the Indus. The Rajpoot principality of Beecaneer -bounds it to the east. It has Jaysulmeer to the south, and, on that -part where it approaches Sinde, a tract of four miles in either country -is left without tillage, to prevent dispute on the marches. - -~Its nature.~ - -The greater part of this country is a barren waste of sand-hills. In -the vicinity of the rivers, the tract is rich and fertile, watered, -like the other banks of the Indus, by the annual swell. The towns are -few in number, and scantily distributed, but there are numerous hamlets -on the Acesines. Bhawulpoor, which stands on the left bank of the -Sutlege, has a population of about twenty thousand people, and is the -mercantile capital; the walled town of Ahmedpoor, further south, and -about half the size, is the residence of the chief, as it lies closer -to Durawul, an ancient fort in the desert (without a town), and the -only place of strength in the country. Durawul is mentioned in the -histories of Sinde as a fortress worthy of Alexander: it was taken by -Mirza Shah Hoosein, in the year of the Hejira 931; but an account of -the siege proves its position to have been more formidable than its -strength: it is built of brick. - -~Power and importance.~ - -The influence of the chief of Bhawulpoor is as limited as his -territory, his power having been crushed by the Seiks, and only saved -from entire overthrow by a treaty, which prevents Runjeet Sing from -crossing the Sutlege. The revenues do not exceed ten lacs annually -(excluding Dera Ghazee Khan; which, properly, belongs to the Seik), -three of which are demanded in tribute by the Lahore chief, for his -lands north of the Sutlege; yet Bhawul Khan maintains some state, and -has about two thousand regular troops (such as they are), with a train -of artillery, to second the efforts of his feudatories in the field; -and his forces collected would exceed twenty thousand men. The present -chief inherited a large patrimony in treasure. - -~Daoodpootras, their descent.~ - -The Daoodpootras are a tribe of Mahommedans from the district of -Shikarpoor, on the right bank of the Indus, which they held in the -earlier part of Aurungzebe’s reign. They crossed the river, and -achieved, by daring acts of bravery, the conquest of the lands now held -by them, from the Duhrs, Muhrs, and other Sindee tribes, and have been -settled in Bhawulpoor for five generations. As the name Daoodpootra -implies, they are descendants of one Daood or David; but the chiefs -claim a lineage from the holy line of Abbas, the uncle of Mahommed. The -chiefs of the tribe are named Peerjanee, and the common people Kihranee. -The community are not allowed to assert their right to the same holy -descent as their masters, which casts some doubt on the lustre of their -parentage. The whole tribe does not exceed fifty thousand souls. They -are a fair and handsome race of people, but disfigured by long bushy -tresses of hair, which they allow to hang over their shoulders. - -~The reigning family.~ - -Bhawulpoor was tributary to Cabool as long as that kingdom lasted; and -the chief had the title of Nawab, but was nearly independent. The three -last rulers have taken the name of Bhawul Khan, from a saint of great -repute in Mooltan; and the designation of Nawab has been changed to -that of Khan, by which title he is familiarly known to his subjects. -The present Bhawul Khan is about thirty years old, and much beloved by -his people: he has a turn for mechanics, and gives great encouragement -to trade and agriculture. He succeeded, about five years ago, to the -prejudice of his elder brother, who now holds an office under him; his -power is firmly fixed, and he has a family of three sons. The form of -government is despotic, and there is no chief of any great importance -in the country but the Khan himself; and the style and formality of his -court keep even these humble, and at a respectful distance. - -~Trade of Bhawulpoor.~ - -The manufactures of Bhawulpoor consist of loongees, which are -celebrated for the fineness of their texture. The weavers are Hindoos, -a numerous class in this country, and who enjoy more toleration in -their trade than their religion. The merchants of Bhawulpoor deal -extensively in goods of European manufacture, which they receive from -Pallee, in Marwar, by way of Beecaneer and the desert, and send into -the Dooranee country by the route of Mooltan and Leia, crossing the -Indus at Kaheree. The Hindoos of Bhawulpoor, and, indeed, of all this -country, are a most enterprising race of men: they often travel to -Balkh and Bokhara, and sometimes to Astracan, for purposes of commerce: -they take the route of Peshawur, Cabool, and Bamean, and, crossing the -Oxus, exchange at Bokhara the productions of India, for that quarter -of Asia and Russia, which are annually brought by the merchants of -that country. They spoke highly of the Uzbek King, and praised Dost -Mahommed, of Cabool, for the protection he afforded to trade. The -Sutlege, or, rather, the joint stream of it and the Beas, called Garra, -on which Bhawulpoor stands, is a navigable river, though not used in -the transport of its merchandise. It does not lie, however, on any -available line of route, except that of Sinde; from which country, as -I have before repeated, there is no trade with the upper provinces of -the Indus. Of the name of this river, the Beas, I may add, that it is -a contraction of Bypasa, in which we have nearly all the letters of -Hyphasis, the designation of it found in the ancient authors. - - - - -CHAP. XIII. - -THE PUNJAB. - - -~Extent of Runjeet Sing’s territory.~ - -The territories of Maha Rajah Runjeet Sing stretch from the Sutlege -to the Indus, from Cashmere to Mooltan, and comprise the whole of the -countries watered by the Punjab, or five tributary rivers, eastward -of the Indus. The power of the Maha Rajah over this tract of country -is consolidated: he commands the fastnesses of the mountains, and -its alluvial plains. So entirely has the Seik nation altered its -constitution, under this chief, that, within a period of twenty years, -it has passed from a pure republic to an absolute monarchy. The genius -of one man has effected this change, though contending with powerful -opposition, from a religion, that inculcates, above every other, -democracy and the equality of all. - -~Changes in the Seik government.~ - -This change of habits has been general, and the fortunate prince who -achieved it, is not more pre-eminent among his nobles, than they are -among their followers; from whom they receive a respect bordering -on veneration. We have now no convocations at Umritsir, the sacred -city of the Seiks, where the affairs of the state were discussed and -settled, and none of the liberty which the followers of Gooroo Govind -proudly claimed as the feature of distinction in their tribe. It is -evident that the change will affect the energies of the Seik nation, -for they sprang from a religion which was free from the worn-out dogmas -of Hindooism, and the deteriorated Mahommedanism of their neighbours, -the Euzoofzyees: their bravery was coeval with that religion, and based -upon it; their political greatness sprang from their change of faith, -and though that has been changed, the Seiks are yet left with peculiar -tenets, and continue to all intents and purposes a distinct people. - -~Policy of Runjeet Sing, and state of his army.~ - -The power which Runjeet Sing acquired has been preserved by his policy: -he has a disciplined army of infantry, with a due proportion of cavalry -and artillery. The system is unpopular in the country, and the Seik -Sirdars view with distrust the innovation, and the innovators. The -French officers, when deprived of their patron, would find it necessary -to stand aloof, from motives of personal safety; and, if they left -the country, the wreck of their labours would soon perish in the -general tumult. At present their battalions manœuvre with regularity -and precision: they are well accoutred and dressed, but destitute of -the most essential quality of a soldier,--discipline. Their payment -is irregular: they undergo cheerfully the mechanical duties of the -soldier, and have shown their gallantry on service; but there is no tie -between the army and the government, and the greater and more glorious -victories of the Maha Rajah were achieved before he had regular troops. - -~Seik Sirdars, or chiefs.~ - -The Sirdars of the Seik nation lose their power in their own feuds. -Runjeet has not failed to foment these, and turn them to advantage; -and, as a mediator of differences, he has always despoiled both parties -to aggrandise himself: he considers it justifiable to profit by the -vices and bad qualities of human nature, and cares not how much he -promises, and how little he fulfils. The Maha Rajah, however, has -portioned out, with a liberal hand, the lands and conquests among his -Sirdars, and conciliated them by this means; few of them place any -reliance on his character: they are aware of his power, and dread to -give him offence. - -~Revenues of the Punjab.~ - -The revenues of the Punjab and its dependencies amount to about two -and a half crores of rupees annually: the principal item in this sum -is derived from Cashmere, which furnishes thirty-six lacs of rupees. -I may add, that all the jagheers and revenues of religious persons -are included in the net sum I have named. The revenue is collected by -arbitrary exactions, at the will of the collector, as in other native -governments. They are presumed, at the outset, to be dishonest, and, -aware of the fact, rifle the peasant, and are prepared to be rifled in -return. The exactions, as regulated by Runjeet himself, are mild, and -his late acquisitions about Mooltan are in a most prosperous condition. -Cashmere, on the other hand, is described as the very essence of bad -government: the people are oppressed, and the Maha Rajah is afraid to -trust other but menial servants with that valuable ornament of his -crown. - -~Revenues might be increased.~ - -The revenues of the Punjab might be increased by annexing to it the -provinces _immediately_ westward of the Indus, some of which have been -subdued by Runjeet Sing; but he has shown, in this instance, his usual -foresight and discrimination. Across the Indus, he would encounter a -most fanatical people, the Euzoofzyees, who would occupy the time of -his army; he contents himself, therefore, with an annual tribute of -some horses and rice from Peshawur. Lower down the Indus, he farms the -province of Dera Ghazee Khan to the Khan of Bhawulpoor. - -~Military resources.~ - -The military resources of the Punjab are great: it yields more grain -than is sufficient for the consumption of its inhabitants; but the -scarcity of population prevents the full measure of its production. -Camels, mules, horses, and cattle abound, and all of them, except the -cattle, which are small, are of a superior description. The roads, from -one extremity of the country to the other, admit of wheeled carriages, -except among the mountains: the Indus, and all the other rivers are -navigable, though not navigated. They have ferry-boats in abundance, -and there are also materials for their further construction; these -rivers are frequently passed on skins, but these are more in use among -the mountains than the plains. - -The paucity of Seiks, in a country ruled and governed by them, is -remarkable. The mother earth of the tribe is the “doab,” between the -Ravee and Sutlege; but there are few of them to be found thirty miles -below Lahore. There are no Seiks westward of the Hydaspes; and to -the eastward of Lahore, where they are said to predominate, they do -not certainly compose a third of the population. The Punjab, indeed, -is a poorly peopled country, in proportion to its fertility, though -it is probable that it has increased in population under the present -ruler.[27] - - -FOOTNOTE: - -[27] A more full account of the Punjab has been given in Vol. II., -which was drawn up after my last visit to that country. - - - - -CHAP. XIV. - -THE CHENAB, OR ACESINES, JOINED BY THE RAVEE, OR HYDRAOTES. - - -~The Chenab described.~ - -The Acesines is the largest of the Punjab rivers, but its size has -been exaggerated. Ptolemy informs us that it is fifteen furlongs wide -in the upper part of its course; and Arrian states that it surpasses -the Nile when it has received the waters of the Punjab falling into -the Indus by a mouth of thirty stadia. Alexander warred in the rainy -reason, when these rivers are much swollen, and when the inundation -had set in for two months. We have already exposed the latter part of -this amplification, in confining the Chenab to a breadth of 600 yards, -and a depth of twenty feet. There is no perceptible diminution in the -size of this stream, from the Sutlege upwards, for that river increases -the depth without adding to the breadth; and the Chenab, south of the -Ravee, will be found, as I have before described it, only with the -shallow soundings of twelve feet. Its banks are so low, that it is -in some places spread as much as 1200 yards, and looks as large as -the Indus. At Mooltan ferry it was 1000 yards across, and below its -junction with the Ravee, above three quarters of a mile; but these are -exceptions to the general feature of the stream. - -~Its banks, &c.~ - -The Chenab receives the Ravee, or Hydraotes, below Fazilpoor, under -the parallel of 30° 40´ north latitude, nearly 180 miles from Ooch, by -the windings of the river, and upwards of 53 miles from Mooltan; in -the neighbourhood of which city it passes on its course to the Indus, -by a direction about south-west.[28] The redness of its water has -already been mentioned, and that of the Ravee has even a deeper tinge. -It runs quicker than the Indus, or any of the Punjab rivers, and its -banks on both sides are open and richly irrigated by larger canals of -running water, dug with great labour; on the right bank, from Mooltan -upwards, there is a desert of low sand-hills, which does not admit -of cultivation, and presses in upon the cultivated land at the short -distance of two miles from the river. It is a mistake to believe that -this desert commences so low as Ooch, and occupies the “doab” of the -Indus and Acesines; for that tract has many large villages, and is rich -and fertile across from one river bank to the other. The distance -between the two rivers is about twenty-five miles, nor does it become -desert till it widens beyond that space below Mooltan. - -~Boats of the Acesines.~ - -~Wood, &c.~ - -At Mooltan the Acesines is navigated by the “zohruk;” but the vessel -differs in some degree from that used in the Daoodpootra country: the -waist is little more than a foot above water; they are much smaller, -and hoist a mat-sail on a small mast. As there is no trade, ferry-boats -are only to be had, if we except the few which bring down salt from -the Jelum or Hydaspes. We embarked in a fleet of ten boats, while such -an additional number are not to be procured on this part of the river. -These vessels are built of the dyar, or cedar wood from the mountains -in which the Punjab rivers have their source: the supply which the -inundation roots up and floats down, is sufficient for all purposes, -without any one carrying on a professed trade in it. While the boats -here are constructed of this wood, they are repaired with the “talee” -tree, which may be found near every village; and, though this country -is not well wooded, an army might soon procure a supply by cutting -trees from the villages near the river, and floating them down to any -place of rendezvous. - -~Crossing the river.~ - -The natives of this country cross the rivers without boats, on skins -or bundles of reeds; and whole families may be seen passing in this -apparently insecure mode. I have observed a man, with his wife and -three children, in the middle of the stream, the father on a skin -dragging his wife and children, who were seated on reeds, and one of -them an infant at the breast: goods, clothes and chattels form a bundle -for the head; and though alligators do certainly exist, they are not -numerous, or such as to deter the people from repeating an experiment, -to say the least of it, not free from danger. - -~District of Mooltan.~ - -The greater part of the country bordering on this part of the Acesines -is included in the district of Mooltan, which, besides the city of that -name, contains the modern town of Shoojurabad. The government, when -tributary to Cabool, has been described in the worst terms; but Runjeet -Sing has recruited its population, repaired the canals, and added to -their number, raising it to a state of opulence and prosperity to which -it had been long a stranger. The soil amply repays the labour, for such -is its strength, that a crop of wheat, before yielding its grain, is -twice mowed down as fodder for cattle, and then ears, and produces an -abundant harvest. The indigo and sugar crops are likewise rich, and -one small strip of land five miles long, which we passed, afforded a -revenue of 75,000 rupees. The total revenue amounts to about ten lacs -of rupees a year, or double the sum it produced in 1809. The tobacco -of Mooltan is celebrated; but, for an Indian province, the date-tree -is its most singular production. It yields a great abundance of fruit, -which is hardly inferior to that of Arabia; for the trees are not -weakened by extracting a liquor from them, as in Lower India. I imagine -that they owe their maturity to the great heat of Mooltan; for dates -seldom ripen in India. The mangoes of Mooltan are the best of Upper -India, and their good qualities seem also to arise from the same cause, -as the mango is usually but an indifferent fruit beyond the tropics. - - -FOOTNOTE: - -[28] We performed the voyage from one junction to the other, in six -days, against the stream. - - - - -CHAP. XV. - -THE RAVEE, OR HYDRAOTES, BELOW LAHORE. - - -~The Ravee.~ - -The Ravee is the smallest of the five Punjab rivers, but, in connection -with them and the Indus, forms a navigable channel from the sea to -Lahore. It joins the Chenab in the latitude of 30° 40´ north, near the -small village of Fazil Shah, by three different mouths, all of which -have eight feet of water. From Lahore downwards, the Ravee preserves -a breadth of about 150 yards, and, as its banks are high and firm, -there are but few places where it is more expanded. This river is so -winding, that sails cannot be hoisted, and a day’s voyage often gives -but a direct progress of three or four miles, when the turnings of the -river have been sixfold. Lahore is only 175 miles from the mouth of the -Ravee, but, by the river, the distance exceeds 380 British miles. - -~Its navigation.~ - -The Ravee is fordable in many places during eight months in the year, -but its general depth is about twelve feet, and I am satisfied that a -vessel drawing four or five feet of water could navigate this river. -The boats of the country do not draw more than two or three, but they -are the common flat-bottomed craft already described. There is no -obstruction to these vessels in any season of the year, yet the Ravee -is not used by the merchants, and the boats are only built for purposes -of ferrying. Below Lahore there are fifty-two of them, we ascended -in these vessels, none others being procurable. The voyage occupied -twenty-one days, and was exceedingly tedious. I am disposed to think -that it is the extreme crookedness of the river which prevents its -being navigated. - -~Peculiarities of the Ravee.~ - -The Ravee is a foul river, much studded with sand banks, many of which -are dangerous quicksands. The zigzag course it pursues, bespeaks the -flat nature of the country it traverses; its banks are more firm and -decided than those of the Indus, or any other of the Punjab rivers. -Near Lahore, they rise sometimes to a perpendicular height of forty -feet; in many places they attain half that elevation, and give to the -river much the appearance of a canal. The country bordering on the -Ravee is little liable to be flooded; and it is worthy of remark, that -there are no cuts from this river, for the purposes of agriculture, -below Lahore. Its current is something less than three miles an hour. -The water is of a reddish colour, like the Chenab; but it is liable to -change, as we remarked in our voyage, from the fall of rain in the -mountains. This river is sometimes called Iräoty, in which we recognise -the Hydraotes of the Greeks. - -~Towns, and their inhabitants.~ - -The banks of the Ravee are open, and peopled from its mouth upwards; -but the villages, for half the distance to the capital, are of a -temporary description, the moveable hamlets of the pastoral tribe -before mentioned, called Jun or Kattia. From Futtipoor they are -numerous, and the country is cultivated; but the space below that town -is uncultivated. The tract between the Ravee and Sutlege is of the same -sterile and unproductive description as on the northern side of the -river towards the Hydaspes. Saltpetre is manufactured in considerable -quantities on both sides of the Ravee. - -~Lahore.~ - -Lahore is the only town of note on the banks of the Ravee, but the -river has lately forsaken its immediate vicinity, and this ancient -capital now stands on a small branch. The position of Lahore is good, -in a military and commercial point of view. It is equidistant from -Mooltan, Peshawur, Cashmeer, and I may also add Delhi. It stands in -a most fertile country; and an army of 80,000 men has been supported -on the resources of its neighbourhood, while the people assert that -provisions have not increased with the increased demand. The city now -contains about 80,000 inhabitants. It is surrounded by a strong brick -wall and ditch, that may be flooded from the river. There are twelve -gates, and as many semicircular outworks. It could not withstand a -siege, from the density of its population; but might afford security -against irregular troops. Umritsir is superior in size and strength to -Lahore: it is a mud fortification of great thickness, and about seven -miles in circumference, and also protected by the strong citadel of -Govindghur. It has a population of about 100,000 souls. Tolumba is a -small town near the estuary of the Ravee, with a population of about -1500 people. It has a weak brick fort of a circular shape, and stands -in a thick grove of date trees two miles south of the river. -[Illustration: - - Drawn by W. Purser. Engraved by E. Finden. - -_Sindree on the Eastern branch of the Indus._ - -SINCE SUBMERGED BY THE EARTHQUAKE OF 1819. - -_From a sketch taken on the spot by Capt. Grindlay in 1808._] - - - - -CHAP. XVI. - - A MEMOIR ON THE EASTERN BRANCH OF THE INDUS, AND THE RUN OF CUTCH, - CONTAINING AN ACCOUNT OF THE ALTERATIONS PRODUCED ON THEM BY AN - EARTHQUAKE IN 1819, ALSO A DESCRIPTION OF THE RUN. - - [I cannot introduce more appropriately than on the present occasion, - the following paper, which was drawn up some time since. It is - necessary to mention this circumstance, as a few of the facts - communicated are already before the public, and have been noticed by - Professor Lyell.[29] Of the Run of Cutch I am not aware of any other - account having been published, though it is a tract without parallel - on the globe.] - - -~Cutch, its position.~ - -In the north-western extremity of our Indian possessions, and under the -tropic, is situated the small and sterile territory of Cutch, important -to the British from its advanced position, but of more attraction -to the student of history, from its western shore being washed by -the waters of the classic Indus. Cutch is a country peculiarly -situated.--To the west, it has the inconstant and ever-varying Indus; -to the north and east, the tract called Run, which is alternately a dry -sandy desert and a muddy inland lake; to the south, it has the Gulf of -Cutch and the Indian Ocean, with waters receding yearly from its shores. - -~Alterations in its western coast by an earthquake.~ - -~Former fertility.~ - -The physical geography of such a province is full of interest; for, -besides the alteration in its fluctuating boundaries, it is subject -to earthquakes, one of which has lately produced some unlooked for -changes in the eastern branch of the Indus. To particularly detail and -explain these, is the object of the present memoir. Cutch at present -labours under disadvantages inflicted on it by the vindictive hatred of -a jealous and cruel neighbouring Government. Previous to the battle of -Jarra, in the year 1762[30], the eastern branch of the Indus, commonly -called the Phurraun, emptied itself into the sea by passing the western -shores of Cutch; and the country on its banks participated in the -advantages which this river bestows throughout its course. Its annual -inundations watered the soil, and afforded a plentiful supply of rice; -the country on its banks being then known by the name of “Sayra.” - -~Sindians destroy it, by damming the eastern branch of the Indus.~ - -These blessings, which nature had bestowed on this otherwise barren -region, perished with the battle of Jarra; for the Sindian chief, -irritated at the unsuccessful result of his expedition, returned to -his country full of vengeance, and inflicted the deepest injury on the -country which he had failed to humble. At the village of Mora he threw -up a mound of earth, or, as it is called, a “bund,” across that branch -of the Indus which fertilised Cutch, and by thus turning the stream, -which so much benefited its inhabitants, to flow into other branches of -the river, and by leading it through canals to desert portions of his -own dominions, he at once destroyed a large and rich tract of irrigated -land, and converted a productive rice country, which had belonged to -Cutch, into a sandy desert. - -~Injury of the “bund” or dam, on the tract near.~ - -The mound which had been raised, did not entirely exclude the water of -the Indus from Cutch; but so impeded the progress of the main stream, -that all agriculture depending on irrigation ceased. In process of -time this trivial remnant of prosperity disappeared, and the Talpoors, -who succeeded the Kaloras in the government of Sinde, threw up other -mounds; and about the year 1802, the erection of one at Ali Bunder -excluded the waters of the Indus, even at the period of inundation, -from the channel which had once conveyed them past Cutch to the sea. -Since then, the stripe of land which once formed the fertile district -of Sayra ceased to yield a blade of vegetation, and became a part of -the Run of Cutch, on which it had formerly bordered. The channel of the -river at the town of Lucput shallowed[31]; and, above Sindree, filled -with mud, and dried up. Lower down it changed into an arm of the sea, -and was flooded at every tide. - -The Raos, or Princes of Cutch, possessed at one time military -stations in three different places of Sinde,--Budeenu, Ballyaree, and -Raomaka-bazar,--yet they submissively bore these indignities, as well -to their own detriment as that of their subjects. They used no exertion -to recover that which nature had bestowed on their country, or to wipe -off those injuries which had been offered, at variance, as they no -doubt were, with the law of nations, which requires “that different -nations ought, in time of peace, to do one another all the good they -can, and in time of war, as little harm as possible, without prejudice -to their own real interests.”[32] - -~Earthquake of 1819 overwhelms Sindree: forms a lake.~ - -In this state of indifference, there occurred, in June, 1819, a severe -shock of an earthquake, by which some hundreds of the inhabitants of -Cutch perished, and every fortified stronghold in the country was -shaken to its foundations. Wells and rivulets without number changed -from fresh to salt water; but these were trifling alterations, compared -with those which took place in the eastern branch of the Indus, and -the adjacent country. At sunset, the shock was felt at Sindree, the -station at which the Cutch Government levied their customs, situated on -the high road from Cutch to Sinde, and on the banks of what had been -once the eastern branch of the Indus. The little brick fort of 150 feet -square, which had been built there for the protection of merchandise, -was overwhelmed by an inundating torrent of water from the ocean, which -spread on every side, and, in the course of a few hours, converted the -tract, which had before been hard and dry, into an inland lake, which -extended for sixteen miles on either side of Sindree. The houses within -the walls filled with water, and eight years afterwards I found fish -in the pools among them. The only dry spot was the place on which the -bricks had fallen upon one another. One of four towers only remained, -and the custom-house officers had saved their lives by ascending it, -and were eventually transported to dry land by boats on the following -day.[33] - -~Raises up a mound called “Ullah bund.”~ - -But it was soon discovered that this was not the only alteration in -this memorable convulsion of nature; as the inhabitants of Sindree -observed, at a distance of five miles northward, a mound of earth -or sand, in a place where the soil was previously low and level. -It extended east and west for a considerable distance, and passed -immediately across the channel of the Indus, separating as it were for -ever the Phurraun river from the sea. The natives called this mound -by the name of “Ullah bund,” or the mound of God, in allusion to its -not being, like the other dams of the Indus, a work of man, but a dam -thrown up by nature. - -These wonderful events passed unheeded by the inhabitants; for the deep -injury which had been inflicted on Cutch in 1762 had so thoroughly -ruined that part of the country, that it was a matter of indifference -whether it continued a desert, or became an inland lake. A feeble and -unsuccessful attempt was made by Cutch to establish a Custom-house -on the newly raised dam of “Ullah bund,” but to this the Ameers of -Sinde objected, and Sindree being no longer tenable, the officers were -withdrawn to the mainland of Cutch. - -~An overflow of the Indus destroys it in 1826.~ - -~Actual state of the river.~ - -Matters continued in this state till the month of November, 1826, when -information was received that the Indus had burst its banks in Upper -Sinde, and that an immense volume of water had spread over the desert -which bounds that country to the eastward, had likewise burst every -artificial dam in the river, as well as the “Ullah bund,” and forced -for itself a passage to the Run of Cutch. In March, 1827, I proceeded -to investigate the truth of what I have stated, to examine the natural -mound, and to endeavour to account for these constant alterations in -physical geography. I journeyed from Bhooj, the capital of Cutch, to -Lucput, a town on the north-western extremity of the province, situated -on the Koree, or eastern branch of the Indus. Here I embarked in a -small flat-bottomed boat, and sailed up the river. At Lucput, and for -twelve miles up, it was about 300 yards wide, and from two to three -fathoms deep, retaining all the appearance of a river. At Sundo, a sand -bank so called, which is about four leagues distant from that town, -the channel shallowed to four or five feet, for two miles; but then -regaining its depth, I entered on a vast inland lake that bounded the -horizon on all sides, amid which the remaining tower of Sindree stood, -like a rock in the ocean. At Sundo the water was brackish, at Sindree -it was quite fresh. Hence I proceeded to “Ullah bund,” which I found to -be composed of soft clay and shells, elevated about ten feet from the -surface of the water, and cut through like a canal, with perpendicular -banks on either side. The channel was about _thirty-five yards_ broad, -and _three fathoms_ deep; and a body of fresh water, a portion of the -real Indus, rolled down it into the lake which I had traversed, below -“Ullah bund.” Here the stream took on once more the appearance of a -river, and I found several boats laden with “ghee” (clarified butter), -which had descended it from Wunga, and thus corroborated all which I -had heard, that the bunds of the Indus had been burst, and that the -communication between the great river and its eastern and long-forsaken -branch was once more restored. I learned likewise that the far-famed -fortress of Omercote had been partially overwhelmed in this inundation; -for instead of _being an öasis in the desert_, as had long been -supposed, this birthplace of the great Acbar is a small brick fort only -three or four miles distant from the Indus, and between which and -Lucput, so late as May, 1829, there was a communication by water. - -~Ullah bund described.~ - -The “Ullah bund,” which I now examined with attention, was, however, -the most singular consequence of this great earthquake. To the eye -it did not appear more elevated in one place than another, and could -be traced both east and west as far as it could reach; the natives -assigned to it a total length of fifty miles. It must not, however, be -supposed to be a narrow stripe like an artificial dam, as it extends -inland to Raomaka-bazar, perhaps to a breadth of sixteen miles, and -appeared to be a great upheaving of nature. Its surface was covered -with saline soil, and I have already stated that it consisted of clay, -shells, and sand. The people universally attributed this bund to the -influence of the earthquake, and also assigned the shallowness of the -river at Sundo to the same cause. - -~Opinions regarding the effects of the earthquake.~ - -The inland lake which had been thus formed, extended for about 2000 -square miles, and its limits were well defined, since the roads from -Cutch to Sinde passed on either side of it. The one led from Nurra to -Loonee and Raomaka-bazar, and the other from Lucput to Kotree Garee -and the Jattee. I am disposed to believe that this sheet of water has -collected from a depression of the country round Sindree; for the -earthquake had an immediate influence on the channel of the river below -“Ullah bund,” which became deep enough to be navigable for boats of 100 -tons from the sea to Lucput, which had never been the case since 1762. -While the basin of Sindree, as I may call it, was depressed, it is -evident that the mound of “Ullah bund” was raised at the same time, as -the description already given will have satisfactorily shown. - -~Subsequent alterations in the Indus.~ - -In the month of August, in the year 1827, I proceeded a second time -to the eastern branch of the Indus, to make further investigations -regarding a subject on which many individuals, as well as myself, had -taken an interest. Great alterations had taken place in this changeable -country; the river and lake were deeper in all places by two feet, the -channel through “Ullah bund” was much widened, and the sheet of water -was now entirely and every where salt. The stream which passed “Ullah -bund” was fresh, but greatly diminished in size: in the time that had -intervened between my visits, the south-westerly winds had prevailed, -and blown the sea water in upon the fresh, which, appeared to account -for the change that had taken place. - -Besides the facts which have been recorded, it appears clear that a -portion of the waters of the Indus have a tendency to escape by Lucput -and Cutch. We find an inundation of the river seeking an old channel -which had been deserted by them for sixty-five years.[34] - - -THE RUN. - -~Run of Cutch.~ - -In the course of my observations on the Indus, I found myself drawn -into many inquiries regarding the Run of Cutch, to which that river -adjoins; for if the alterations in the river afforded room for remark, -there was also much to be said on the Run, which is a tract, I believe, -without a counterpart in the globe. In length, the Run extends from -the Indus to the western confines of Guzerat, a distance of about 200 -British miles. In breadth, it is about thirty-five miles; but there -are, besides, various belts and ramifications, which give it an extent -of about 7000 square miles. It is accurately delineated in the map. -The whole tract may truly be said to be a “terra hospitibus ferox;” -fresh water is never to be had any where but on islands, and there it -is scarce; it has no herbage, and vegetable life is only discernible -in the shape of a stunted tamarisk bush, which thrives by its suction -of the rain water that falls near it. It differs as widely from what -is termed the sandy desert, as it differs from the cultivated plain; -neither does it resemble the Steppes of Russia; but may be justly -considered of a nature peculiar to itself. It has been denominated -a marsh by geographers, which has given rise to many erroneous -impressions regarding it. It has none of the characteristics of one: it -is not covered or saturated with water, but at certain periods; it has -neither weeds nor grass in its bed, which, instead of being slimy, is -hard, dry, and sandy, of such a consistency as never to become clayey, -unless from a long continuance of water on an individual spot; nor is -it otherwise fenny or swampy. It is a vast expanse of flat, hardened, -sand, encrusted with salt sometimes an inch deep (the water having -been evaporated by the sun), and at others, beautifully crystallized -in large lumps. So much is the whole surrounding country corrupted -by this exuberance of salt, that all the wells dug on a level with -the Run become salt. The depression of the Run below the level of the -surrounding country at once suggests the probability of its being a -dried up lake or sea. - -~Mirage of the Run.~ - -Nowhere is that singular phenomenon, the _mirage or surab_ of the -desert, seen with greater advantage than in the Run. The natives -aptly term it smoke[35]; the smallest shrubs at a distance assume -the appearance of forests; and on a nearer approach, sometimes that -of ships in full sail, at others that of breakers on a rock. In one -instance I observed a cluster of bushes, which looked like a pier, -with tall-masted vessels lying close to it; and on approaching, not -a bank was near the shrubs to account for the deception. From the -Run, the hills of Cutch appear more lofty, and to have merged into -the clouds, their bases being obscured by vapour. The wild ass[36] -is the only inhabitant of this desolate region; they roam about in -flocks, “scorning the multitude of the city, and make the wilderness -and barren lands their dwelling.” Their size does not much exceed that -of the common ass, but, at a short distance, they sometimes appear as -large as elephants. While the sun shines, the whole surrounding space -of Run resembles a vast expanse of water--the appearance it commonly -assumes--and which is only to be distinguished from real water by those -who are long habituated to such visionary illusions. When the sun is -not shining, the Run appears higher at a distance; but this has been -remarked of the sea, and other extensive sheets of water, and is also -to be accounted for in the deception of vision. - -~Traditions regarding the Run.~ - -The natives of Cutch, Mahommedans as well as Hindoos, believe that -the Run was formerly a sea; and a tradition is in the mouth of every -one, that a Hindoo saint, by name Dhoorumnath, a Jogee[37], underwent -penance by standing on his head for twelve years on the summit of -Denodur, one of the highest hills in Cutch, which overlooks the Run. -When his penance terminated, God became visible to him, the hill on -which he stood split in two, and the adjacent sea (the present Run) -dried up; the ships and boats which then navigated it were overturned, -its harbours destroyed, and many wonderful events happened. There is -no race of people who have recourse to supernatural agency in their -chronicles, more than the natives of India; and, to those accustomed -to enquire into them, the circumstances just recorded will appear as -the graft of one of their tales on some real event which has actually -occurred, and is thus transmitted to posterity. Considering the -frequent occurrence of earthquakes in Cutch, the volcanic appearance -of’ its hills, and the lava which covers the face of the country, -it is to a convulsion of nature, in all probability, that we are to -attribute the foundation of such a tradition. - -~Concurring traditions.~ - -The natives, however, carry their traditions beyond the vague legends -of a saint, and point out at this day different positions, said to have -been harbours, in the Run of Cutch. At Nerona, which is a village about -twenty miles NNW. of Bhooj the capital, and close to the Run, there is -said to have been a sea-port, which is thus described in the poesy of -the country:-- - - “Nerona nuggartur - Judhee Goontree Chitrano.” - -In other words, that Nerona was a sea-port (tur), when Goontree (an -ancient city in Cutch) flourished in the neighbouring district of -Chitrano. At Charee, a village westward of Nerona, and on the Run, -there is also a like tradition. The people of the Puchum, the largest -island on the Run, have similar traditions, and speak of boats -having been wrecked on the hills of the island; also that there were -considerable harbours near them, called Dorut, Doh or Dohee, and -Phangwuro, which are yet pointed out to the westward of Puchum. Bitaro, -a small place on the high road to Sinde, between Cutch and “Ullah -Bund,” is also said to have been a sea-port, and I could point out -several others. Nor are the traditions less concurrent on the Sinde, -or northern side of the Run: Veego-gud, near “Ullah Bund,” is said to -have been the principal sea-port, and its brick ruins are yet visible. -Vingur and Ballyaree, which lie eastward, claim likewise the same -privileges. This sea had the name of “Kiln;” nor do I believe that -the testimony of so many people, regarding it, can be discredited, -informed as I was of these traditions by different persons, who had no -communication with one another. - -~Effects of a late earthquake on the Run.~ - -The effects of the earthquake of 1819 have been already mentioned, in -so far as relates to the country adjoining the Indus; but occurrences -of an equally singular nature happened farther eastward. It made -numerous cracks or fissures in the Run; and I state, on the authority -of eye-witnesses, that immense quantities of black, muddy water were -ejected from these openings for a period of three days, and that the -water bubbled out of the wells of the tract bordering on the Run, -called Bunnee, till it overwhelmed the country in some place with -six, and even ten feet of water. The shepherds with difficulty saved -themselves and their flocks. During this time numerous pieces of -iron and ship-nails were thrown up at Phangwuro, the sea-port before -mentioned; and similar things have been since found in the same -neighbourhood while digging tanks. I give this fact on the authority of -respectable men at Nurra, who also assured me that nothing of the kind -had ever been discovered before the earthquake of 1819. - -~Flooding of the Run.~ - -The grand Run of Cutch is that part which lies between Sinde and the -islands of Puchum and Khureer, the other parts being but ramifications -of it. It has a communication with the sea both on the east and west, -by means of the Gulf of Cutch and a branch of the Indus, and it is -flooded from both these openings as soon as the south-westerly winds -set in, about April each year. When local rain falls and moistens the -Run, the sea enters with great rapidity, and insulates the province of -Cutch for some months; but even without rain the greater portion of the -Run is annually flooded. The level of the Run is obviously higher than -the sea, since it requires strong winds to blow the waters of the ocean -over it. - -~Configuration of the Run borders.~ - -We must now attend to the configuration of the Run. In the -north-eastern extremity of Cutch, it will be observed that a chain of -hills overhangs the Run at Bheyla: they are about 300 feet high, and -terminate abruptly. The islands of Khureer and Puchum lie due west of -this range, and are not only composed of the same sort of ironstone -as the Bheyla hills, but have similar ranges running through their -northern extremities, which terminate, particularly at Khureer, in a -bluff and abrupt outline towards the Run. Khureer is six miles westward -of Cutch, and Puchum is about sixteen from Khureer; westward of Puchum -there are a few low and sandy islets on the Run, and south of it lies -the Bunnee, an extensive tract of grassland, of greater elevation than -the Run, but not sufficiently so to yield grain. It has many wells, -and is inhabited by a pastoral race. South of Khureer there are also -many islands, the largest of which is Gangta, and covered with rocky -hills. Between Guzerat and Cutch the Run is narrow; at Addysir it -is but a mile and a half wide to the island of Chorar. Here there -is a deposit of shells and marine matter, a carbonate of lime mixed -with other substances; it has a red and yellow petrified appearance, -takes on a tolerably good polish, and from which some members of the -faithful pretend to read Arabic words, or letters of the Koran. It was -used in the mosaic works of all the Moghul emperors, and is commonly -called Dookur-warra marble by Europeans. North of the Bheyla hills lies -Parkur, a district peninsulated by the Run, having the lofty hills of -Kalinjur, of a formation differing from Cutch, where they are almost -all sandstone. They are primitive rocks, rising in small cones one -upon another, as if they had dropped from the clouds; the summit is -composed of trap, which extends for about a third of the way down, -and the base is red granite, which rings when struck. These hills are -separated from Cutch by a low tract of the Run, upwards of thirty miles -broad, without an intervening bush. The whole northern face of Cutch, -from Bheyla on the east to Lucput on the west, presents, with a few -exceptions, either a rocky or an elevated bank. From Nurra to Lucput -the rocks terminate abruptly, and form what would be called capes, -cliffs, and promontories, if the water washed under them. When the -immediate vicinity of the Run is not of this description, it stretches -inland, exactly as water would do when not resisted. - -~Run supposed to have been an inland sea.~ - -The sea is receding from the southern shores of Cutch; and I believe it -is a generally received conclusion, that there is a depression of its -level throughout the globe, though in some places it has risen. We may, -therefore, suppose the ocean to have receded from the Run of Cutch, -and that that tract was at one time a navigable sea. That the natives -should attribute so great a change in a part of their country to the -influence of a Jogee, is not wonderful. A body of these persons has -been long settled in Cutch. They are a philanthropic and hospitable -body of men, who permit no one of any persuasion to leave their door -hungry, and they are blessed with plenty. Like the monks in Europe in -former days, these Jogees are the repository of history and traditions, -and it may be their careful preservation of them, which has given rise -to the belief that the alterations in the Run were accomplished in the -time of Dhoorumnath, the founder of their order. In proof of this, they -have a tradition that the ancestors of the present rulers of Cutch -were once a class of poor shepherds from Samee (Tatta), in Sinde, and -fed their flocks, till patronised by the Denodur Jogees, who raised -them to be Rajahs of the country. So far is this true, the Rajpoots -of Cutch did come from Tatta, and did tend herds of cattle in Cutch; -but they were certainly not raised to their present elevation by the -intercession of some Hindoo monks; yet such is the alteration which a -story undergoes, in the course of four hundred years.[38] - -NOTE ON SINDREE. - -I annex the following extract, describing a journey from Lucput in -Cutch, to Hydrabad in Sinde, by way of Sindree, from the MS. of Captain -R. M. Grindlay, written in the year 1808, when with a mission to the -Ameers of Sinde, and which has been kindly furnished to me. It will be -seen that the neighbourhood of Sindree, which I have described to be -under water, was then dry, and that the fort of Sindree existed at that -time, as an outpost of the Cutch Government. - - “We embarked on the creek at Lucput Bender, which is about three - quarters of a mile broad, and runs between east and north, for six or - eight miles, when it begins to narrow very much: the shore on each - side is a wet marsh, covered with short bushes. - - “In the evening we anchored at the turn of the tide, and at twelve - o’clock next day we passed Sindree, which is about thirty miles from - Lucput, and dependent on it, with a small garrison of sepoys: it is - a small fort, with a few huts outside, and one well: the creek here - is about a mile and a quarter broad, and has a ferry across. The - travellers who take this route to Sinde are not numerous, and leave no - vestige of a road in the light sand, of which the dry part of the Run - is composed. The heat of the meridian sun is said to be so intense, - that they generally travel in the night. From Sindree, by land, the - next stage is about twenty-four miles to Baura, after which the Run - ends, and water becomes tolerably plentiful. - - “We passed Sindree, and observed several inferior branches leading - through the Run, among which we saw a few straggling men and women; - about twenty miles beyond Sindree, we reached Aly Bunder, at eight - o’clock at night, and came to anchor close to the mound which - confines the fresh water: when the day appeared, we observed it - to be a poor mud village, of about fifty huts, and a tower of the - same unsubstantial materials. Here we encamped for the purpose of - collecting the boats from the freshwater side of the mound, and not - finding a sufficient number, several of those we brought with us were - dragged over: this, however, was a work of three days; and, during - that time, from the nature of the soil, we were annoyed by the dust - in such a manner as would scarcely be believed by those who had not - been in a similar situation: the sun was completely obscured by - it, an object at the distance of 100 yards was invisible; and the - natives moving about were so disguised, that their colour was not - distinguishable. The soil of the Run is a mixture of fine sand and the - salt deposited by the inundation. This, dried by several months’ sun, - becomes a most impalpable powder. The Run, which ceases about a line - with Aly Bunder, from north-east and north, is covered with aquatic - bushes and a few shells: the sand entangled amongst these bushes forms - hillocks of various heights, from five to fifteen feet, according to - the size of the bush. It does not appear that any of the side channels - lead beyond the Run, or that any of them are navigated by boats, - except those which again join the main stream: that by which we came - is certainly by far the most considerable. - - “On the 10th we embarked again on the freshwater river, which is there - about 400 yards broad, and soon after widens very much, with high - sand-hills on the banks, and a few huts with a little cultivation. The - river here takes the name of Goonee. - - “At the distance of about twelve miles from Aly Bunder, the river - divides, and soon after becomes so narrow, that our boats, though - not large, had difficulty in passing through the large bushes which - overhang the bank, and has great appearance of a cut canal, or at - least of a channel cleared out and deepened; the banks are irregular - in their height, and the land immediately beyond them low, and in - several places swampy. We passed the mouth of a creek on the west, - said to lead to Tatta, besides several other inferior streams which - run through the country, and are cut into a variety of channels, for - the purposes of cultivation. - - “About ten miles beyond Aly Bunder, on the west bank, is Chuttee Thur - (or ferry), opposite to which is the mouth of a considerable stream, - with a dam across, which we understood to be the Phoran. This was - formerly a very large branch of the Indus, and ran past Nusserpoor, - which I learn is to the south-east. Many of the inhabitants of that - place recollect a remarkable change in the river: the inundation - swallowed up a great part of the town, and altered the course of - the river, which since then has had much less water in it. The - whole of Sinde, from the nature of its soil, is subject to these - alterations by the annual floods, many striking instances of which the - inhabitants are well acquainted with, particularly that which I have - already mentioned, and the great alterations in the branches below - Tatta.”--_See Captain Grindley’s Journal in MS._ - - - THE END. - - - LONDON: - Printed by A. SPOTTISWOODE, - New-Street-Square. - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[29] See “Principles of Geology,” by Charles Lyell, Esq., F.R.S. -London, vol. ii. 1832. - -[30] This battle was fought near a small village of that name. The -inhabitants of Cutch made a brave stand for their independence against -a Sindian army led by Ghoolam Shah Kulora. - -[31] Captain (now Lieut.-Col.) D. Wilson, of the Bombay army, found a -ford here in 1820, in a part of the river 500 yards wide. In 1826, I -found a depth of fifteen feet in the same place. - -[32] Blackstone. - -[33] Since my return to England, I have been so fortunate as to procure -a view of Sindree, as it existed in the year 1808, from a sketch by -Captain Grindlay, who visited it at that time. It has been engraved -for this work, and faces Chap. XVI. Captain Grindlay’s observations on -Sindree follow in a note. - -[34] I have suppressed various opinions which I had formed on the -causes of these constant changes, deeming them of small value. The -paper has been also published at length by the Royal Asiatic Society of -London. - -[35] Dhooan. - -[36] Called “Khur-gudha” by the natives. - -[37] This class of people are yet numerous in Cutch: it is among -them that the horrid custom called “traga” prevails. It consists in -sacrificing one of their number when any injury or oppression is -offered to their community, under a belief that the blood so shed rests -on the head of those who oppress them. - -[38] I have since found, in some manuscript papers of the late lamented -Captain M‘Murdo, written as long since as 1815, that he formed similar -conclusions with myself regarding the Run of Cutch. He is treating of -that part of it near Kattywar, of which I have not spoken, and the -following extract is both curious and satisfactory:--- - -“The Runn has every appearance of the sea having shortly withdrawn -from it. This is supported by the semblance and production of the -neighbouring country, and large stones are found on the shore several -miles from the present Runn, of a description similar to those used as -anchors; they have holes bored through for the cable. On the shore, at -different places, are shown small ancient buildings, called Dan Derees, -or houses where the dan or customs were collected; and, in short, it -is a tradition in the country, that Khor, a village two miles east of -Teekir, was a sea-port town. About fifty years since, the wreck of a -vessel, of a size far beyond that of any of the craft now in use in the -Gulf of Cutch, was discovered at Wawania, sunk in the mud about fifteen -feet deep.”--_Captain M‘Murdo’s MS. Memoir on Kattywar, August, 1815._ - - - - -Transcriber's Note - - -The following apparent errors have been corrected: - -p. x "and, the Indus" changed to "and the Indus" - -p. xv "Advance so Lahore" changed to "Advance to Lahore" - -p. xix "Umritsirr" changed to "Umritsir" - -p. 22 "voyage to Labore" changed to "voyage to Lahore" - -p. 33 "ridge near it," changed to "ridge near it." - -p. 34 "India,” that" changed to ""India,” that" - -p. 83 "various Beloche" changed to "various Beloochee" - -p. 113 "been throughly" changed to "been thoroughly" - -p. 115 (sidenote) "of Mooltan" changed to "of Mooltan." - -pp. 117-8 "was as fol" changed to "was as follows" - -p. 122 "branch from it," changed to "branch from it." - -p. 144 "royal foostool" changed to "royal footstool" - -p. 201 "The are about 700" changed to "There are about 700" - -p. 267 "Bukkur, it" changed to "Bukkur, its" - -p. 308 "Umritoir is superior" changed to "Umritsir is superior" - -p. 316 "at Sundree it was" changed to "at Sindree it was" - - -Inconsistent or archaic spelling and punctuation have otherwise been -kept as printed. - - -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS INTO BOKHARA (VOLUME 3 OF -3) *** - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the -United States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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margin:1em 0'> -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online -at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you -are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the -country where you are located before using this eBook. -</div> - -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: Travels into Bokhara (Volume 3 of 3)</p> -<p style='display:block; margin-top:0; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:0;'>Being the Account of A Journey from India to Cabool, Tartary, and Persia; Also, Narrative of a Voyage on the Indus, From the Sea to Lahore, With Presents From the King of Great Britain; Performed Under the Orders of the Supreme Government of India, in the Years 1831, 1832, and 1833</p> - -<div style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: Alexander Burnes</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: September 26, 2021 [eBook #66386]</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Character set encoding: UTF-8</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Produced by: Henry Flower and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive/Canadian Libraries)</div> - -<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS INTO BOKHARA (VOLUME 3 OF 3) ***</div> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_i">[i]</span></p> - - - -<h1> -TRAVELS<br /> -<span class="small">INTO</span><br /> -BOKHARA,<br /> -<span class="small"><i>&c. &c.</i></span></h1> - -<p class="p2 center">VOL. III. -</p> - -<div class="chapter p4" /> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_ii">[ii]</span></p> - - -<p class="center"> -<span class="smcap">London</span>:<br /> -Printed by <span class="smcap">A. Spottiswoode</span>,<br /> -New-Street-Square. -</p> - - - -<div class="chapter" /> - -<div><div class="figcenter illowp100" id="zill_a002b" style="max-width: 93.75em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/zill_a002b.jpg" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"><div>Drawn by W. Purser. Engraved by E. Finden.</div> - - -<div class="large"><i>Hydrabad on the Indus</i></div> - -<div><i>From a sketch taken on the spot by Capt. Grindlay, in 1808.</i></div></div> -</div> - - -</div> - - -<div class="chapter p4" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_iii">[iii]</span></p> - - - - -<p class="titlepage"> -<span class="large">TRAVELS</span><br /> - -INTO<br /> - -<span class="x-large">BOKHARA;</span><br /> - -BEING THE ACCOUNT OF<br /> - -A JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO CABOOL, TARTARY, AND PERSIA;</p> - -<p class="p2 center"> -ALSO, NARRATIVE OF<br /> - -<span class="large">A VOYAGE ON THE INDUS,</span><br /> - -FROM THE SEA TO LAHORE,<br /> - -WITH PRESENTS FROM THE KING OF GREAT BRITAIN;<br /> - -PERFORMED UNDER THE ORDERS OF THE SUPREME GOVERNMENT -OF INDIA, IN THE YEARS 1831, 1832, AND 1833.</p> - -<p class="p2 center"> -BY<br /> - -<span class="large">LIEUT. ALEX<sup>R</sup> BURNES, F.R.S.</span><br /> - -OF THE EAST INDIA COMPANY’S SERVICE;<br /> -AS<sup>T</sup> POLITICAL RESIDENT IN CUTCH, AND LATE ON A MISSION TO -THE COURT OF LAHORE.</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">----“Per syrtes iter æstuosas,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">... <i>per inhospitalem</i></div> - <div class="verse indent0"><i>Caucasum, vel quæ loca fabulosus</i></div> - <div class="verse indent2"><i>Lambit Hydaspes</i>.”</div> -</div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent2"><span class="smcap">Hor.</span></div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - - -<p class="p2 center"> -IN THREE VOLUMES.<br /> - -VOL. III.</p> - -<p class="p2 center"> -LONDON:<br /> -JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.<br /> -<br /> -MDCCCXXXIV. -</p> - - - -<div class="chapter p4" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_v">[v]</span></p> - - - - -<p class="titlepage lh2"> -THIS<br /> - -THIRD VOLUME<br /> - -OF<br /> - -<span class="large">TRAVELS INTO BOKHARA,</span><br /> - -CONTAINING<br /> - -<span class="larger">AN ACCOUNT OF THE RIVER INDUS,</span><br /> - -IS INSCRIBED TO<br /> - -THE MEMORY OF THE LATE<br /> - -<span class="large">MAJOR-GENERAL SIR JOHN MALCOLM, G.C.B.</span><br /> - -&c. &c. &c.<br /> - -IN GRATEFUL REMEMBRANCE,<br /> - -BY<br /> - -<span class="larger">THE AUTHOR.</span><br /> -</p> - - - -<div class="chapter p4" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_vii">[vii]</span></p> - - - - -<p class="titlepage lh2"> -<span class="larger">NARRATIVE</span><br /> - -OF A<br /> - -<span class="large">VOYAGE BY THE RIVER INDUS,</span><br /> - -FROM THE SEA TO<br /> - -<span class="larger">THE COURT OF LAHORE IN THE PUNJAB,</span><br /> - -WITH PRESENTS FROM THE KING OF GREAT BRITAIN;<br /> - -COMPRISING<br /> - -<span class="larger">AN ACCOUNT OF THE PROCEEDINGS OF THE MISSION,</span><br /> - -AND A<br /> - -<span class="larger"><b>MEMOIR OF THE RIVER INDUS</b>,</span><br /> - -WITH CURSORY REMARKS ON THE REMAINS OF ANTIQUITY NEAR THAT<br /> -CLASSICAL AND CELEBRATED STREAM.<br /> -</p> - - - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_ix">[ix]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="INTRODUCTION">INTRODUCTION.</h2> -</div> - - -<p>I was employed as an officer of the Quartermaster-general’s -department, for several years, in -the province of Cutch. In the course of enquiries -into its geography and history, I visited -the eastern mouth of the Indus, to which the -country adjoins, as well as that singular tract -called the “Run,” into which that river flows. -The extension of our knowledge in that quarter -served only to excite further curiosity, in which -I was stimulated by Lieut-General Sir Thomas -Bradford, then Commander-in-Chief of the Bombay -army. That officer directed his views, in a -most enlightened manner, to the acquisition of -every information regarding a frontier so important -to Britain as that of north-western India. -Encouraged by such approbation, for which I -am deeply grateful, I volunteered my services,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_x">[x]</span> -in the year 1829, to traverse the deserts between -India and the Indus, and finally, endeavour to -descend that river to the sea. Such a journey -involved matters of political moment; but the -government of Bombay was then held by an individual -distinguished above all others, by zeal -in the cause of Asiatic geography and literature. -Sir John Malcolm despatched me at once, in -prosecution of the design, and was pleased to -remove me to the political branch of the service, -observing, that I should be then invested “with -influence with the rulers, through whose -country I travelled, that would tend greatly -to allay that jealousy and alarm, which might -impede, if they did not arrest, the progress of -my enquiries.”</p> - -<p>In the year 1830, I entered the desert, accompanied -by Lieut. James Holland, of the -Quartermaster-general’s department, an officer -ably qualified to assist me. After reaching -Jaysulmeer, we were overtaken by an express -from the Supreme Government of India, desiring -us to return, since at that time “it was deemed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xi">[xi]</span> -inexpedient to incur the hazard of exciting -the alarm and jealousy of the rulers of Sinde, -and other foreign states, by the prosecution of -the design.” This disappointment, then most -acutely felt, was dissipated in the following year, -by the arrival of presents from the King of Great -Britain for the ruler of Lahore, coupled, at the -same time, with the desire that such an opportunity -for acquiring correct information of the -Indus should not be overlooked. The following -work contains the narrative of that mission, -which I conducted by the Indus to Lahore. -The information which I collected, relative to -Jaysulmeer and the countries on the N. W. frontier -of India, has just been published in the -Transactions of the Royal Geographical Society -of London.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>London, June 7. 1834.</p> -</div> - - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xiii">[xiii]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CONTENTS">CONTENTS<br /> - - -<span class="small">OF</span><br /> - -THE THIRD VOLUME.</h2> - -</div> - - -<table class="autotable toc" summary="Table of Contents"> -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="tdr">Page</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Introduction</span></td> -<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_ix">ix</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc lh2">CHAPTER I.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl">Arrival of presents from the King of England—Information on the Indus desired—Suggestions for procuring it—Appointed to conduct the Mission to Lahore—Departure from Cutch—Ability of the Navigators—Arrival in the Indus—Phenomena—Scenes of Alexander’s Campaigns—Ebb and flow of the Tides—Correctness of Quintus Curtius—Visited by the Authorities—Forced out of the Country—Correspondence—Return to the Indus—Imminent Danger—Starved out of the Country—Third Voyage to the Indus—Land in Sinde—Negotiations—Advance on Tatta—Sindian Policy and Reasoning—Successful Negotiations</td> -<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_1">1</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc lh2">CHAP. II.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl">Tatta described—Hinglaj, a famous Pilgrimage—Return to the Sea-coast—Notions of the People—Alexander’s Journey—Embarkation on the River—Anecdote—Strictness of Religious Observances—Pulla Fish—Arrival at Hydrabad—Welcome of the Rulers—Presentation at Court—Sindian Meanness—Audience of Leave—Scenery near the Capital</td> -<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_30">30</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xiv">[xiv]</span></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc lh2">CHAP. III.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl">Departure from Hydrabad—Sehwun—Crew of the Boats—A Sindian Song—Sehwun described—Reasons for supposing it to be the Territory of the Sindomanni—Pilgrimage—High Antiquity of the Castle of Sehwun—Congratulations from the Ruler of Khyrpoor—Address that Personage—Character of the People—The Indus—Visited by the Vizier of Sinde—Arrival at Khyrpoor—Audience with the Chief—Character of the Sindian Rulers—Arrival at Bukkur—Amusing Predictions—Anecdote of an Afghan—Mihmandar—Alore described—Supposition of its being the Kingdom of Musicanus</td> -<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_51">51</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc lh2">CHAP. IV.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl">Quit Bukkur—Curiosity of the People—Reach the Frontiers of Sinde—Farewell Letters—Creditable Behaviour in our Escort—Fish Diet—Costume—Enter Bhawul Khan’s Country—Quit the Indus at Mittun—Effects of this River on the Climate—Enter the Chenab or Acesines—Incident at Ooch—Arrival of Bhawul Khan—Interview with him—Merchants of Bhawulpoor—History of Ooch—Visited by Bhawul Khan—Mountains—Pass the Sutlege—Peculiarity in the Water of two Rivers—Simplicity of the Mihmandar—Enter Runjeet Sing’s Country—Honourable Reception—Exhibition of the Dray-horses—Orders of the Court</td> -<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_81">81</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc lh2">CHAP. V.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl">Voyage in the Country of the Seiks—Shoojuabad—Mooltan; its Antiquity—Probably the Capital of the Malli—Public Buildings—Religious Intolerance—Climate—Phenomena—Date-trees; Traditions of their introduction—Quit Mooltan—Peloo Shrub<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xv">[xv]</span>—Arrangements for our Advance to Lahore—Alexander the Great—Enter the Ravee, or Hydräotes—Tolumba—Visit the Hydaspes—Description of its confluence with the Chenab—Probable identity of a Modern Tribe with the Cathæi—Ruins of Shorkote—Valuable Bactrian Coin found at it—Birds and Reptiles—Heat—Ruins of Harappa—A Tiger Hunt—Seik Courage—Intelligence of the Mihmandar—Letter and Deputation from Lahore—Seik Females</td> -<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_108">108</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc lh2">CHAP. VI.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl">Enter Lahore—Presentation to Runjeet Sing—Delivery of the Presents—Copy of a Letter from the King of England—Stud—Hall of Audience—Military Spectacle—Conversations of Runjeet Sing—Amazons—French Officers—City of Lahore—Tomb of Juhangeer—Shalimar of Shah Jehan—Horse Artillery Review—Character of Runjeet Sing—Audience of Leave—Superb Jewels—Dresses of Honour—Runjeet Sing’s Letter to the King—Quit Lahore—Umritsir; its Temples—Reach the Beas, or Hyphasis—Fête of a Seik Chieftain—Reach the Sutlege—Antiquities of the Punjab—Arrival at Lodiana—Exiled Kings of Cabool—Visit them—Journey to the Himalaya Mountains—Interview with the Governor-general—Acknowledgments of his Lordship</td> -<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_148">148</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="tdc"><hr class="r5" /></td> -</tr> - -<tr> -<td colspan="2" class="tdc">MEMOIR ON THE INDUS AND ITS TRIBUTARY RIVERS IN THE PUNJAB.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl">Notice regarding the Map of the Indus</td> -<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_193">193</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc lh2">CHAPTER I.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl">A general view of the Indus</td> -<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_199">199</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xvi">[xvi]</span></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc lh2">CHAP. II.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl">A comparison of the Indus and Ganges—Propriety of the comparison—Size of the Ganges—Of the Indus—Compared—Slope of the Indus—Conclusions from it—Tides in both Rivers</td> -<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_203">203</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc lh2">CHAP. III.<br /> -<span class="smaller">ON SINDE.</span></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl">Extent of the Country—Chiefs and Revenue—Power and Conquests—Military Strength—Connection with Persia—External Policy—Internal State—Hydrabad Family—Khyrpoor Family—Meerpoor Family—Condition of the People—Population</td> -<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_212">212</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc lh2">CHAP. IV.<br /> -<span class="smaller">ON THE MOUTHS OF THE INDUS.</span></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl">Division of the Indus into two great branches below Tatta—Sata—Buggar—Delta; its extent—Dangers in navigating it—Eleven Mouths of the Indus—The Pittee—Pieteeanee, Jooa, Reechel, Hujamree—Khedywaree, Gora, or Wanyanee—Khaeer, Mull, Seer—Koree, or Eastern Mouth—Advantage of these to Sinde—Coast of Sinde—Tides of the Indus—Curachee Seaport—Boats of the Indus; Dingees and Doondees—Indus adapted for Steam-vessels—Military remarks on the River</td> -<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_228">228</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc lh2">CHAP. V.<br /> -<span class="smaller">ON THE DELTA OF THE INDUS.</span></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl">Inundation of the Delta—Extent—Neglected State—Towns—Population—Jokea Tribe—Fisheries—Animals—Productions—Climate</td> -<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_249">249</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xvii">[xvii]</span></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc lh2">CHAP. VI.<br /> -<span class="smaller">THE INDUS FROM TATTA TO HYDRABAD.</span></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl">Sand-banks—Course of the River—Towns—Country Supplies—Trade—Means of improving it—Boats; their Deficiency</td> -<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_255">255</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc lh2">CHAP. VII.<br /> -<span class="smaller">THE INDUS FROM HYDRABAD TO SEHWUN.</span></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl">Course and Depth—Fulailee River—Current—Importance of this Part of the River—Crossing the Indus—Navigation of it—Towns—Sehwun—Mountains of Lukkee</td> -<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_260">260</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc lh2">CHAP. VIII.<br /> -<span class="smaller">THE INDUS FROM SEHWUN TO BUKKUR.</span></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl">Position of Bukkur—Fertility of the Country—Current—Eastern Bank of the Indus—Western Bank—Fortress of Bukkur—Roree and Sukkur—Alore; its Antiquity—Khyrpoor and Larkhanu—Productions of the Soil</td> -<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_267">267</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc lh2">CHAP. IX.<br /> -<span class="smaller">THE INDUS FROM BUKKUR, TILL JOINED BY THE PUNJAB RIVERS.</span></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl">Breadth and Depth—Boats—Country—Shikarpoor and Subzul—Swell of the Indus—Tribes on the River</td> -<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_275">275</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xviii">[xviii]</span></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc lh2">CHAP. X.<br /> -<span class="smaller">THE INDUS FROM MITTUN TO ATTOK.</span></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl">Description of the River—Dera Ghazee Khan—Line of Commerce—Military Expeditions; why they avoided the Indus—Bridging the Indus</td> -<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_281">281</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc lh2">CHAP. XI.<br /> -<span class="smaller">THE CHENAB, OR ACESINES, JOINED BY THE SUTLEGE, OR HESUDRUS.</span></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl">Chenab—Junction—Banks of the Chenab—Ooch; its Productions</td> -<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_286">286</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc lh2">CHAP. XII.<br /> -<span class="smaller">ON BHAWUL KHAN’S COUNTRY.</span></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl">Limits—Nature of the Country—Its Power and Importance—Daoodpootras; their Descent—The reigning Family—Trade of Bhawulpoor</td> -<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_290">290</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc lh2">CHAP. XIII.<br /> -<span class="smaller">THE PUNJAB.</span></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl">Extent of Runjeet Sing’s Country—Changes in the Seik Government—Probable Consequences of the Ruler’s Death—His Policy—Sirdars—Revenues of the Punjab—Military Resources and Strength—Cities</td> -<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_295">295</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc lh2">CHAP. XIV.<br /> -<span class="smaller">THE CHENAB, OR ACESINES, JOINED BY THE RAVEE, OR HYDRAÖTES.</span></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl">Chenab Described—Boats on it—Crossing the River—Province of Mooltan</td> -<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_300">300</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xix">[xix]</span></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc lh2">CHAP. XV.<br /> -<span class="smaller">THE RAVEE, OR HYDRAÖTES, BELOW LAHORE.</span></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl">The Ravee—Its tortuous Course and difficult Navigation—Towns—Lahore—Umritsir Toolumba</td> -<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_305">305</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdc lh2">CHAP. XVI.<br /> -<span class="smaller">A MEMOIR ON THE EASTERN BRANCH OF THE INDUS, AND THE RUN OF CUTCH.</span></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl">Cutch; its Position—Alterations in its Western Coast, from an Earthquake—Damming of the Eastern Branch of the Indus—Injuries thereby—Dreadful Earthquake of 1819—Effects of it—Raises a natural Mound—Overflow of the Indus in 1826—its Effects on the Eastern Branch described—Opinions—Subsequent Alterations of the Indus—Run of Cutch described—Mirage—Traditions regarding the Run—Corroboration of them—Effects of the Earthquake on the Run—Flooding of the Run—Configuration of the Run Borders—Run, supposed to have been an Inland Sea—Note in corroboration of the Opinion—Note on Sindree</td> -<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_309">309</a></td> -</tr> -</table> - - -<div class="chapter p4"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_1">[1]</span></p> - -<p class="x-large center">NARRATIVE.</p> -</div> - - - - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I.</h2> - - - -<div class="sidenote">Arrival of -presents -from the -King of -England -for Runjeet -Sing -at Lahore.</div> - -<p>In the year 1830, a ship arrived at Bombay, -with a present of five horses from the King -of Great Britain to Maharaja Runjeet Sing, -the Seik Chieftain at Lahore, accompanied by -a letter of friendship from his majesty’s minister<a id="FNanchor_1" href="#Footnote_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> -to that prince. At the recommendation -of Major-General Sir John Malcolm, then governor -of Bombay, I had the honour of being -nominated by the Supreme Government of India -to proceed on a mission to the Seik capital, with -these presents, by way of the river Indus. I -held at that time a political situation in Cutch, -the only portion of the British dominions in -India which borders on the Indus.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Information -on the -Indus desiderated.</div> - -<p>The authorities, both in England and India, -contemplated that much information of a political -and geographical nature might be acquired -in such a journey. The knowledge which we -possessed of the Indus was vague and unsatis<span class="pagenum" id="Page_2">[2]</span>factory, -and the only accounts of a great portion -of its course were drawn from Arrian, Curtius, -and the other historians of Alexander’s expedition. -Sir John Malcolm thus minuted in the -records of government, in August, <span class="lock">1830:—</span></p> - -<p>“The navigation of the Indus is important in -every point of view; yet we have no information -that can be depended upon on this subject, -except of about seventy miles from Tatta -to Hyderabad. Of the present state of the -Delta we have native accounts, and the only -facts which can be deduced are, that the different -streams of the river below Tatta, often -change their channels, and that the sands of -all are constantly shifting; but, notwithstanding -these difficulties, boats of a small draft of -water can always go up the principal of them. -With regard to the Indus above Hyderabad, -there can be no doubt of its being, as it has -been for more than two thousand years, navigable -far up.”</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Arrangements.</div> - -<p>In addition therefore to the complimentary -mission on which I was to be employed, I had -my attention most specially directed to the acquisition -of full and complete information regarding -the Indus. This was a matter of no -easy accomplishment, as the Ameers, or rulers -of Sinde, had ever evinced the utmost jealousy -of Europeans, and none of the missions which<span class="pagenum" id="Page_3">[3]</span> -visited the country had been permitted to proceed -beyond their capital of Hyderabad. The river -Indus, likewise, in its course to the ocean, traverses -the territories of many lawless and barbarous -tribes, from whom both opposition and -insult might be dreaded. On these matters much -valuable advice was derived from Lieutenant-Colonel -Henry Pottinger, political resident in -Cutch, and well known to the world for his -adventurous travels in Beloochistan. He suggested -that it might allay the fears of the Sinde -government, if a large carriage were sent with -the horses, since the size and bulk of it would -render it obvious that the mission could then -only proceed by water. This judicious proposal -was immediately adopted by government; -nor was it in this case alone that the experience -of Colonel Pottinger availed me, as it will be -seen that he evinced the most unwearied zeal -throughout the difficulties which presented themselves, -and contributed, in a great degree, to the -ultimate success of the undertaking.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">The escort.</div> - -<p>That a better colour might also be given to my -deputation by a route so unfrequented, I was made -the bearer of presents to the Ameers of Sinde, -and at the same time charged with communications -of a political nature to them. These referred -to some excesses committed by their -subjects on the British frontier; but I was in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_4">[4]</span>formed -that neither that, nor any other negotiation, -was to detain me in my way to Lahore. -The authorities in England had desired that a -suitable escort might accompany the party; but -though the design was not free from some degree -of danger, it was evident that no party of -any moderate detail could afford the necessary -protection. I preferred, therefore, the absence -of any of our troops, and resolved to trust to the -people of the country; believing that, through -their means, I might form a link of communication -with the inhabitants. Sir John Malcolm -observed, in his letter to the Governor General, -that “the guard will be people of the country -he visits, and those familiar with it. Lieut. -Burnes prefers such, on the justest grounds, to -any others; finding they facilitate his progress, -while they disarm that jealousy which -the appearance of any of our troops excites.” -Nor were my sentiments erroneous; since a -guard of wild Beloochees protected us in Sinde, -and allayed suspicion.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Appointed -to conduct -the mission -to Lahore.</div> - -<p>When these preliminary arrangements had -been completed, I received my final instructions -in a secret letter from the chief secretary at -Bombay. I was informed that “the depth of -water in the Indus, the direction and breadth -of the stream, its facilities for steam navigation, -the supply of fuel on its banks, and the con<span class="pagenum" id="Page_5">[5]</span>dition -of the princes and people who possess -the country bordering on it, are all points of -the highest interest to government; but your -own knowledge and reflection will suggest to -you various other particulars, in which full -information is highly desirable; and the slow -progress of the boats up the Indus will, it is -hoped, give you every opportunity to pursue -your researches.” I was supplied with all the -requisite surveying instruments, and desired to -draw bills on honour for my expenses. In a -spirit also purely characteristic of the distinguished -individual who then held the government, -I received the thanks of Sir John Malcolm -for my previous services; had my attention -drawn to the confidence now reposed in me; -and was informed that my knowledge of the -neighbouring countries and the character of -their inhabitants, with the local impressions by -which I was certain to be aided, gave me advantages -which no other individual enjoyed, and -had led to my selection; nor could I but be -stimulated by the manner in which Sir John -Malcolm addressed the Governor General of -India:—“I shall be very confident of any -plan Lieut. Burnes undertakes in this quarter -of India; provided a latitude is given him to -act as circumstances may dictate, I dare -pledge myself that the public interests will be<span class="pagenum" id="Page_6">[6]</span> -promoted. Having had my attention much -directed, and not without success, during -more than thirty years, to the exploring and -surveying countries in Asia, I have gained -some experience, not only in the qualities and -habits of the individuals by whom such enterprises -can be undertaken, but of the pretexts -and appearances necessary to give them success.” -A young active and intelligent officer, -Ensign J. D. Leckie, of the 22d Regiment N.I., -was also nominated to accompany me; a surveyor, -a native doctor, and suitable establishments -of servants were likewise entertained.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Departure -from Cutch.</div> - -<p>We sailed from Mandivee in Cutch with a -fleet of five native boats, on the morning of the -21st of January, 1831. On the day succeeding -our departure, we had cleared the Gulf of Cutch. -The danger in navigating it has been exaggerated. -The eddies and dirty appearance of the -sea, which boils up and bubbles like an effervescing -draught, present a frightful aspect to a -stranger, but the natives traverse it at all seasons. -It is tolerably free from rocks, and the Cutch -shore is sandy with little surf, and presents inducements -for vessels in distress to run in upon -the land. We passed a boat of fifty tons, which -had escaped shipwreck, with a very valuable -cargo from Mozambique, the preceding year, by -this expedient.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_7">[7]</span></p> - -<div class="sidenote">Ability of -the Cutch -navigators.</div> - -<p>Among the timid navigators of the East, the -mariner of Cutch is truly adventurous; he voyages -to Arabia, the Red Sea, and the coast of -Zanguebar in Africa, bravely stretching out on -the ocean after quitting his native shore. The -“moallim” or pilot determines his position by -an altitude at noon or by the stars at night, with -a rude quadrant. Coarse charts depict to him the -bearings of his destination, and, by long-tried -seamanship, he weathers, in an undecked boat -with a huge lateen sail, the dangers and tornadoes -of the Indian Ocean. This use of the quadrant -was taught by a native of Cutch, who made a -voyage to Holland in the middle of last century, -and returned, “in a green old age,” to enlighten -his country with the arts and sciences of Europe. -The most substantial advantages introduced by -this improver of his country were the arts of -navigating and naval architecture, in which the -inhabitants of Cutch excel. For a trifling reward, -a Cutch mariner will put to sea in the -rainy season, and the adventurous feeling is -encouraged by the Hindoo merchants of Mandivee, -an enterprising and speculating body of -men.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Arrival in -the Indus.</div> - -<p>On the evening of the 24th we had cleared -the Gulf of Cutch, and anchored in the mouth of -the Koree, the eastern, though forsaken, branch -of the Indus, which separates Sinde from<span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">[8]</span> -Cutch. The Koree leads to Lueput, and is -the largest of all the mouths of the river, having -become a branch of the sea as the fresh water -has been turned from its channel. There are -many spots on its banks hallowed in the estimation -of the people. Cotasir and Narainseer are -places of pilgrimage to the Hindoo, and stand -upon it and the western promontory of Cutch. -Opposite them lies the cupola of Rao Kanoje, -beneath which there rests a saint, revered by the -Mahommedans. To defraud this personage of -frankincense, grain, oil, and money, in navigating -the Koree, would entail, it is superstitiously -believed, certain shipwreck. In the reverence we -recognise the dangers and fear of the mariner. -There is a great contrast between the shores of -Sinde and Cutch; the one is flat and depressed, -nearly to a level with the sea, while the hills of -Cutch rise in wild and volcanic cones, which -meet the eye long after the coast has faded -from the view. We gladly exchanged this -grandeur for the dull monotony of the shores of -Sinde, unvaried, as it is, by any other signs of -vegetation than stunted shrubs, whose domain is -invaded by each succeeding tide.</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp51" id="zill_t008b" style="max-width: 42.9375em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/zill_t008b.jpg" alt="" /> - <div class="caption center"><div class="large"><b><span class="smcap">NATIVES of CUTCH.</span></b></div> - -<div>Lith.<sup>d</sup>. for Burnes’ Travels into Bokhara,__by Day & Haghe Lith.<sup>rs</sup> to the King.</div> - -<div>John Murray Albemarle S<sup>t</sup>. 1834.</div> - -<div><i>On Stone by L. Haghe.</i> -<i>Captn. R. M. Grindlay delt.</i></div></div> -</div> - -<div class="sidenote">Coast of -Sinde.</div> - -<p>We followed the Sinde coast for four or five -days, passing all the mouths of the Indus, eleven -in number, the principal of which we entered -and examined, without even the observation of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">[9]</span> -inhabitants. There was little indication of our -being near the estuary of so great a river, for the -water was only fresh a mile off shore from the -Gora, or largest mouth of the Indus; and the -junction of the river water with that of the -sea was formed without violence, and might -be now and then discovered by a small streak -of foam and a gentle ripple. The number and -subdivision of the branches diminish, no doubt, -the velocity as well as the volume of the Indus; -but it would be supposed that so vast a river -would exercise an influence in the sea far from its -embouchure; and, I believe, this is really the -case in the months of July and August, during -the inundation. The waters of the Indus are so -loaded with mud and clay, as to discolour the sea -for about three miles from the land. Opposite -its different mouths numberless brown specks -are to be seen, called “pit” by the natives. -I found them, on examination, to be round -globules, filled with water, and easily burst. -When placed on a plate, they were about the -size of a shilling, and covered by a brown skin. -These specks are considered by the pilots to denote -the presence of fresh water among the salt; -for they believe them to be detached from the -sand banks, by the meeting of the sea and the -river. They give a particularly dirty and oily -appearance to the water.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">[10]</span></p> - -<div class="sidenote">Anchor on -the Indus.</div> - -<p>At night-fall on the 28th, we cast anchor in -the western mouth of the Indus, called the -Pittee. The coast of Sinde is not distinguishable -a league from the shore. There is not -a tree to be seen, though the mirage sometimes -magnifies the stunted shrubs of the Delta, -and gives them a tall and verdant appearance; -a delusion that vanishes with a nearer approach. -From our anchorage, a white fortified tomb, in -the Bay of Curachee, was visible north-west of us; -and beyond it lay a rocky range of black mountains, -called Hala, the Irus of Nearchus. I here -read from Arrian and Quintus Curtius the passages -of this memorable scene in Alexander’s -expedition, the mouth from which his admiral, -Nearchus, took his departure from Sinde. The -river did not exceed 500 yards in width, instead -of the 200 stadia (furlongs) of Arrian, -and the twelve miles, which more modern accounts -had assigned to it, on the authority of -the natives. But there was still some resemblance -to the Greek author; for the hills over -Curachee form with the intervening country -a semicircular bay, in which an island and -some sand-banks might lead a stranger to believe, -that the ocean was yet distant. “Alexander -sent two long galleys before the fleet, -towards the ocean, to view a certain island, -which they called Cillutas, where his pilots<span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">[11]</span> -told him he might go on shore before he entered -the main ocean; and when they assured -him that it was a large island, and had commodious -harbours, besides plenty of fresh water, -he commanded the rest of the fleet to put in -there, while he himself passed out to sea.” -The island, as it now exists, is scantily covered -with herbage, and destitute of fresh water. In -vain I sought an identity of name in the Indian -dialect, for it was nameless; but it presented a -safe place of anchorage; and, as I looked upon -it, I could not but think it was that Cillutas -where the hero of Macedon, “drawing up his -fleet under a promontory, sacrificed to the -gods, as he had received orders from Ammon.” -Here it was, too, that Nearchus caused “a canal -to be dug, of about five stadia in length, where -the earth was easiest to remove; as soon as -the tide began to rise they got their whole -fleet safe through that passage into the ocean.” -The Greek admiral only availed himself of the -experience of the people; for it is yet customary -among the natives of Sinde to dig shallow -canals, and leave the tides or river to deepen -them; and a distance of five stadia, or half a -mile, would call for no great labour. It is not -to be supposed that sand-banks will continue -unaltered for centuries; but I may observe, that -there was a large bank contiguous to the island,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">[12]</span> -between it and which a passage like that of -Nearchus might have been dug with the greatest -advantage. “Having sailed from the mouth -of the Indus, Nearchus came to a sandy island, -called Crocola, and proceeded on his voyage, -having the mountain Irus on his right hand.” -The topography is here more accurate: two -sandy islands, called Andry, lie off Curachee, -at a distance of eighteen miles from the Indus; -and it is worthy of remark, that that portion of -the Delta through which the Pittee runs, is yet -denominated “Crocola” by the natives.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Ebb and -flow of the -tides.</div> - -<p>But the ebb and flow of the tides were an -object of the greatest surprise to Alexander’s -fleet, and we could soon discover the cause of -their astonishment, for two of our boats stranded -at a spot where, half an hour previously, there -had been abundance of water. The tides inundate -the country with great impetuosity, and recede -as rapidly, so that if a vessel be not in the -channel, she will be left on shore. Arrian observes, -that “while they continued in that station, -an accident happened which astonished -them; namely, the ebbing and flowing of the -waters, like as in the great ocean, inasmuch -that the ships were left upon dry ground, -which Alexander and his friends never having -perceived before, were so much the more -surprised. But what increased their astonish<span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">[13]</span>ment -was, that the tide returning a short -while after began to heave the ships, so that -* * * some of them were swept away by -the fury of the tide, and dashed to pieces, -and others driven against the bank, and destroyed.”<a id="FNanchor_2" href="#Footnote_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a></p> - -<div class="sidenote">Quintus -Curtius’s -description -of Alexander’s -disasters.</div> - -<p>A graphic and animated description of these -disasters of the Greeks has been likewise given -by Quintus Curtius, and is nowhere more remarkable -than in the allusion to the “knolls” -rising above the river like “little islands,” for -at full tide the mangrove shrubs present exactly -that appearance; but let the author speak in his -own <span class="lock">words:—</span></p> - -<p>“About the third hour, the ocean, according -to a regular alternation, began to flow in furiously, -driving back the river. The river, at -first, resisted; then impressed with a new -force, rushed upwards with more impetuosity -than torrents descend a precipitous channel. -The mass on board, unacquainted with the nature -of the tide, saw only prodigies and symbols -of the wrath of the gods. Ever and anon the -sea swelled; and on plains, recently dry, descended -a diffused flood. The vessels lifted -from their stations, and the whole fleet dispersed; -those who had debarked, in terror -and astonishment at the calamity, ran from all<span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">[14]</span> -quarters towards the ships. But tumultuous -hurry is slow. * * * Vessels dash together, -and oars are by turns snatched away, to impel -other galleys. A spectator would not imagine -a fleet carrying the same army; but hostile -navies commencing a battle. * * * * Now -the tide had inundated all the fields skirting -the river, only <i>tops of knolls</i> rising above it -like little islands; to these, from the evacuated -ships, the majority swam in consternation. -The dispersed fleet was partly riding in deep -water, where the land was depressed into -dells; and partly resting on shoals, where the -tide had covered elevated ground; suddenly -breaks on the Macedonians a new alarm more -vivid than the former. The sea began to ebb; -the deluge, with a violent drain, to retreat -into the frith, disclosing tracts just before -deeply buried. Unbayed, the ships pitched -some upon their prows, others upon their -sides. The fields were strewed with baggage, -arms, loose planks, and fragments of oars. The -soldiers scarcely believed what they suffered -and witnessed. Shipwrecks on dry land, the -sea in a river. Nor yet ended their unhappiness; -for ignorant that the speedy return of -the tide would set their ships afloat, they predicted -to themselves famine and death. Terrifying -monsters, too, left by the waves, were<span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">[15]</span> -gliding about at random.” Our little fleet did -not encounter such calamity and alarm as that -of Nearchus; for, in Q. Curtius’s words,—“by -a gradual diffusion, the inundation began -to raise the ships, presently flooding all the -fields, set the fleet in motion.”</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Reflections.</div> - -<p>I shall not now dwell on these subjects, -though eminently interesting; but, in the course -of my narrative, I shall endeavour to identify -the modern Indus with the features of remoter -times. If successful in the enquiry, we shall -add to our amusement, and the interest of the -chronicles themselves. It is difficult to describe -the enthusiasm one feels on first beholding the -scenes which have exercised the genius of Alexander. -That hero has reaped the immortality -which he so much desired, and transmitted the -history of his conquests, allied with his name, to -posterity. A town or a river, which lies on his -route, has acquired a celebrity that time serves -only to increase; and, while we gaze on the -Indus, we connect ourselves, at least in association, -with the ages of distant glory. Nor -can I pass over such feelings without observing, -that they are productive of the most solid advantages -to history and science. The Scamander -has an immortality which the vast Mississippi -itself can never eclipse, and the descent of the -Indus by Alexander of Macedon is, perhaps, the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">[16]</span> -most authentic and best attested event of profane -history.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Visited by -the Sinde -authorities.</div> - -<p>The jealousy of the Sinde government had -been often experienced, and it was therefore -suggested that we should sail for the Indus, -without giving any previous information. Immediately -on anchoring, I despatched a communication -to the agent of the Ameers at Darajee, -signifying my plans; and, in the meanwhile, -ascended the river with caution, anchoring in -the fresh water on the second evening, thirty-five -miles from the sea. Near the mouth of -the river we passed a rock stretching across the -stream, which is particularly mentioned by Nearchus, -who calls it a “dangerous rock,” and is -the more remarkable, since there is not even -a stone below Tatta in any other part of the -Indus. We passed many villages, and had much -to enliven and excite our attention, had we not -purposely avoided all intercourse with the people -till made acquainted with the fate of our intimation -to the authorities at Darajee. A day -passed in anxious suspense; but, on the following -morning, a body of armed men crowded -round our boats, and the whole neighbourhood -was in a state of the greatest excitement. The -party stated themselves to be the soldiers of the -Ameer, sent to number our party, and see the -contents of all the boats, as well as every box<span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">[17]</span> -that they contained. I gave a ready and immediate -assent; and we were instantly boarded -by about fifty armed men, who wrenched open -every thing, and prosecuted the most rigorous -search for cannon and gunpowder. Mr. Leckie -and myself stood by in amazement, till it was at -length demanded that the box containing the -large carriage should be opened; for they pretended -to view it as the Greeks had looked on the -wooden horse, and believed that it would carry -destruction into Sinde. A sight of it disappointed -their hopes; and we must be conjurors, -it was asserted, to have come without arms and -ammunition.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Retire to -the mouth -of the Indus.</div> - -<p>When the search had been completed, I entered -into conversation with the head man of -the party, and had hoped to establish, by his -means, a friendly connection with the authorities; -but after a short pause, this personage, who was -a Reis of Lower Sinde, intimated, that a report -of the day’s transactions would be forthwith -transmitted to Hydrabad; and that, in the meanwhile, -it was incumbent on us to await the decision -of the Ameer, at the mouth of the river. -The request appeared reasonable; and the more -so, since the party agreed to furnish us with -every supply while so situated. We therefore -weighed anchor, and dropped down the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">[18]</span> -river; but here our civilities ended. By the -way we were met by several “dingies” full of -armed men, and at night were hailed by one of -them, to know how many troops we had on -board. We replied, that we had not even a -musket. “The evil is done,” rejoined a rude -Belooche soldier, “you have seen our country; -but we have four thousand men ready for action!” -To this vain-glorious observation succeeded -torrents of abuse; and when we reached -the mouth of the river, the party fired their -matchlocks over us; but I dropped anchor, and -resolved, if possible, to repel these insults by -personal remonstrance. It was useless; we were -surrounded by ignorant barbarians, who shouted -out in reply to all I said, that they had been ordered -to turn us out of the country. I protested -against their conduct in the most forcible language; -reminded them that I was the representative, -however humble, of a great Government, -charged with presents from Royalty; and added, -that, without a written document from their -master, I should decline quitting Sinde. - -<span class="sidenote">Quit the -country.</span> -An -hour’s delay served to convince me that personal -violence would ensue, if I persisted in such -a resolution; and as it was not my object to -risk the success of the enterprise by such collision, -I sailed for the most eastern mouth of the -Indus, from which I addressed the authorities<span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">[19]</span> -in Sinde, as well as Colonel Pottinger, the Resident -in Cutch.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Communications -with -the Ameer.</div> - -<p>I was willing to believe that the soldiers had -exceeded the authority which had been granted -them; and was speedily put in possession of a -letter from the Ameer, couched in friendly -terms, but narrating, at great length, the difficulty -and impossibility of navigating the Indus. -“The boats are so small,” said his Highness, -“that only four or five men can embark in one -of them; their progress is likewise slow; they -have neither masts not sails; and the depth of -water in the Indus is likewise so variable as -not to reach, in some places, the knee or waist -of a man.” But this formidable enumeration -of physical obstacles was coupled with no refusal -from the Ruler himself; and it seemed expedient, -therefore, to make a second attempt, after replying -to his Highness’s letter.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Return to -Sinde.</div> - -<p>On the 10th of February we again set sail for -Sinde; but at midnight, on the 14th, were overtaken -by a fearful tempest, which scattered our -little fleet. Two of the vessels were dismasted; -we lost our small boat, split our sails, sprung -a leak; and, after being buffeted about for some -days by the fury of the winds and waves, succeeded -in getting an observation of the sun, -which enabled us to steer our course, and finally -conducted us in safety to Sinde. One of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">[20]</span> -other four boats alone followed us. We now anchored -in the Pieteanee mouth of the Indus, and -I forthwith despatched the following document, -by a trustworthy messenger, to the agents at -Darajee.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Fruitless -negotiations.</div> - -<p>1. “Let it be known to the Government agent -at Darajee, that this is the memorandum of -Mr. Burnes (sealed with his seal, and written -in the Persian language in his own handwriting), -the representative (vakeel) of the -English to the Ameer of Sinde, and likewise -the bearer of presents to Maharaja Runjeet -Sing from the King of England.</p> - -<p>2. “I came to the Indus a few days ago; and -you searched my baggage, that you might report -the contents thereof to your master. I -have now returned, and await an answer.</p> - -<p>3. “You may send any number of armed men -that you please; my life is in your power; but -remember that the Ameer will hold every one -responsible who molests me. Remember, too, -that I am a British officer, and have come -without a musket or a soldier (as you well -know); placing implicit reliance on the protection -of the ruler of Sinde, to whose care my -Government have committed me.</p> - -<p>4. “I send this memorandum by two of my -own servants, and look to you for their being -protected.”</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">[21]</span></p> - -<p>This remonstrance drew no reply from the -agent at Darajee; for the individual who had -held the situation on our first visit to Sinde, had -been dismissed for permitting us to ascend the -river; and our servants brought us notice that -we should not be permitted to land, nor to -receive either food or water. We observed, -therefore, the greatest possible economy in the -distribution of our provisions, and placed padlocks -on the tanks, in the hope of reason yet -guiding the councils of the Ameer. When our -supply of water failed, I despatched a small boat -up the river to procure some; but it was -seized, and the party detained; which now rendered -us hopeless of success, and only anxious -to quit the inhospitable shores of Sinde.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Imminent -danger on -the Indus. -Quit Sinde.</div> - -<p>On the 22d of February we weighed our anchor, -at daylight; and when in the narrow mouth -of the river, the wind suddenly changed. The -tide, which ran with terrific violence, cast us on -the breakers of the bar; the sea rolled over us, -and we struck the ground at each succeeding -wave. In despair, the anchor was dropped; and -when we thought only of saving our lives, we -found our vessel had rubbed over the breakers -of the bank, and floated. I admired the zeal -and bravery of our crew; and was much struck -with their pious ejaculations to the tutelar saint -of Cutch, Shah Peer, when they found themselves<span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">[22]</span> -beyond the reach of danger. “Oh! holy and -generous saint,” shouted the whole crew, -“you are truly good.” Frankincense was forthwith -burned to his honour; and a sum of money -was collected, and hallowed by its fragrance, as -the property of the saint. The amount subscribed -testified the sincerity of the poor men’s -gratitude; and if I believed not the efficacy of -the offering, I refused not, on that account, to -join, by their request, in the manifestations of -their duty and gratitude. Our other vessel, not -so fortunate as ourselves, was cast on shore, -though on a less dangerous bank. We rendered -her assistance, and sailed for Cutch, and anchored -in Mandivee roads after a surprising run -of thirty-three hours.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Negotiations -with -the Ameer.</div> - -<p>It could not now be concealed that the conduct -of the Ameer of Sinde was most unfriendly; -but he yet betrayed no such feeling in his letters. -He magnified the difficulties of navigating the -Indus, and arrayed its rocks, quicksands, whirlpools, -and shallows, in every communication; -asserting that the voyage to Lahore had never -been performed in the memory of man. It was -evident that he viewed the expedition with the -utmost distrust and alarm; and the native agent, -who resides at Hydrabad on the part of the -British Government, described, not without some -degree of humour, the fear and dread of this<span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">[23]</span> -jealous potentate. In his estimation, we were -the precursors of an army; and did he now desire -to grant us a passage through Sinde, he was -at a loss to escape from the falsehoods and contradictions -which he had already stated in his -epistles. One letter went on to say, that “the -Ameer of Sinde avoids giving any reply, lest -he should be involved in perplexity; and he -has stopped his ears with the <i>cotton</i> of <i>absurdity</i>, -and taken some silly notions into his -head, that if Captain Burnes should now come, -he will see thousands of boats on the Indus, -and report the same to his Government, who -will conclude that it is the custom of the -Ameer of Sinde to deceive on all subjects, -and that he has no sort of friendship.” At -length, after a remonstrance from Colonel Pottinger, -both he and myself received letters -from Hydrabad, offering a road through Sinde -by land. As this might be fairly deemed the -first opening which had presented itself during -the whole negotiation, with the advice of Colonel -Pottinger I set out a third time for the Indus. -That officer in the meanwhile intimated my departure -to the Ameer, and pointed out the impossibility -of my proceeding by land to Lahore. -He also intimated, in no measured language, -that the vacillating and unfriendly conduct of -the Ameer of Sinde would not pass unnoticed;<span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">[24]</span> -the more particularly, since it concerned the -passage of gifts, which had been sent by his most -gracious Majesty the King of Great Britain.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Third -voyage to -the Indus.</div> - -<p>On the 10th of March we once more set -sail for the Indus; and reached the Hujamree, -one of the central mouths of the river, after a -prosperous voyage of seven days. We could -hire no pilot to conduct us across the bar, and -took the wrong and shallow mouth of the river, -ploughing up the mud as we tacked in its narrow -channel. The foremost vessel loosened her red -ensign when she had fairly reached the deep -water; and, with the others, we soon and joyfully -anchored near her. We were now met by -an officer of the Sinde Government, one of the -favoured descendants of the Prophet, whose enormous -corpulence bespoke his condition. This -personage came to the mouth of the river; for -we were yet refused all admittance to the fresh -water. He produced a letter from the Ameer, -and repeated the same refuted arguments of his -master, which he seemed to think should receive -credit from his high rank. It would be tiresome -to follow the Sindians through the course of chicanery -which they adopted, even in this stage of -the proceedings. An embargo was laid on all -the vessels in the Indus; and we ourselves were -confined to our boats, on a dangerous shore, and -even denied fresh water. The officer urged the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">[25]</span> -propriety of our taking a route by land; and, as -a last resource, I offered to accompany him to the -capital, and converse with the Ameer in person, -having previously landed the horses. - - -<span class="sidenote">Land in -Sinde.</span> -I made -known this arrangement by a courier, which I -despatched to the Court; and on the following -morning quitted the boats, along with Syud -Jeendul Shah, who had been appointed our -Mihmandar.<a id="FNanchor_3" href="#Footnote_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> No sooner had we reached Tatta, -than the required sanction for the boats to ascend -by the Indus was received, provided we ourselves -took the land route; but I immediately -declined to advance another step without my -charge; and ultimately effected, by a week’s negotiation -at Tatta, the desired end. At the expense -of being somewhat tedious, I will give an -abstract of these proceedings as a specimen of -Sindian policy and reasoning.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Negotiations -at -Tatta.</div> - -<p>A few hours after reaching Tatta, Syud Zoolfkar -Shah, a man of rank, and engaging manners, -waited on us on the part of the Ameer. He -was accompanied by our Mihmandar, and met us -very politely. He said that he had been sent -by his Highness to escort us to Hydrabad; to -which I laconically replied, that nothing would -now induce me to go, since the Ameer had conceded -the request which I had made of him. The -Syud here marshalled all his eloquence; asked<span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">[26]</span> -me if I wished to ruin the Mihmandar, by making -him out a liar, after I had promised to accompany -him to the Court, and he had written so -to the Ameer; if I had no regard for a promise; -that the capital was close at hand, and I could -reach it in two marches; that, if I did not now -go, it could only be inferred that I had been -practising delusion, from a desire to see Tatta; -for I had even been allowed to choose the route -by that city, contrary to orders; and that I was -not, perhaps, aware of the high character of the -Syud, who was a descendant of the holy Prophet, -and honourable in this land; whose dignity, -the Christians, who preserved even the relic of -Jesus Christ’s nail, could well understand; and -that it was not the part of a wise man to cavil -like a moollah, since the Ameer had sanctioned -the advance of the mission by water, if we embarked -at Hydrabad, and would be answerable -for the safety of the horses to that place; and, -finally, that if I persisted in taking the route by -water, he was desired to say that it was a violation -of the treaty between the states.</p> - -<p>I heard with attention the arguments of Zoolfkar -Shah; nor did I forget that the praises and -respect which he claimed for his friend, as a -descendant of the Prophet, likewise included -himself. I replied, that there had existed a -long standing friendship between Sinde and the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">[27]</span> -British Government; that I had been despatched -by a well frequented route, to deliver the presents -of our gracious Sovereign to Runjeet -Sing at Lahore; that, on reaching Sinde, I had -been insulted, abused, starved, and twice turned -out of the country by low persons, whom I -named; that my Government, which was ever -considerate, had attributed this unheard-of insolence, -not to their <i>friend</i>, the Ameer of Sinde, -but to the ignorance of mean individuals, and -had despatched me a third time to Sinde: when -I reached it, I found Syud Jeendul Shah ready -to receive me; but although thoroughly satisfied -that the presents of which I was in charge could -never be forwarded by land, he offered me that -route, and detained me on board ship for eleven -days, till necessity had driven me to make a proposal -of repairing in person to the presence of -the Ameer, in hopes of persuading that personage. -The case was now altered; the water -route had been granted, which rendered my -visit to Hydrabad unnecessary; and I could -only view the present procedure in the light of -jealousy, which it was unbecoming in a Government -to entertain. I continued, that I had -chosen the route by Tatta, because my bills were -payable at that city; and the sooner the Syud -got his master to meet my wishes, the better; for -the floods of the Indus were at hand, the hot<span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">[28]</span> -season approached, and delay would increase the -hazard; while no arguments but force would -now induce me to visit the Court, or permit the -horses to be moved without my presence. In -fine, if it were not the intention of the Ameer to -act a friendly part, he had only to say so, and -I would forthwith quit the country when I received -a letter to that effect; and finally, that he -had formed a very erroneous opinion of the British -character, if he considered that I had been sent -here in breach of a treaty, for I had come to -strengthen the bonds of union; and, what was -further, that the promise of an officer was sacred.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Address the -Ameer.</div> - - - -<p>An interview in the following morning, brought -a repetition of the whole arguments; and as we -could not convince each other, we both agreed -to address his Highness. After the style of -Asiatic diplomacy, I informed the Ameer, “that -he had acted the part of a friend, in first pointing -out the difficulties of navigating the Indus, -and now assisting me through them by giving -his sanction to the water route; but since I -was so thoroughly acquainted, through his -Highness’s kindness, with the dangers of the -river, I dared not trust such royal rarities, as the -gifts of the King of Great Britain, to the care -of any servant.” -<span class="sidenote">Success.</span> -In three days I received a -full and unqualified sanction to advance by water -from the mouth of the Indus. I gladly quit the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">[29]</span> -detail of occurrences which have left few pleasing -reflections behind, except that success ultimately -attended our endeavours, and that they elicited -the approbation of Government. The Ameer of -Sinde had sought to keep us in ignorance of the -Indus; but his treatment had led to another -and opposite effect; since we had entered, in the -course of out several voyages, <i>all</i> the mouths of -the river, and a map of them, as well as of the -land route to Tatta, now lay before me. Our -dangers on the banks and shoals had been imminent; -but we looked back upon them with the -pleasing thought, that our experience might -guide others through them.</p> - - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">[30]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAP_II">CHAP. II.<br /> -<span class="smaller"> -TATTA TO HYDRABAD.</span></h2> - -</div> - -<div class="sidenote">Tatta.</div> - -<p>A week’s stay was agreeably spent in examining -Tatta and the objects of curiosity which surround -it. The city stands at a distance of three miles -from the Indus. It is celebrated in the history -of the East. Its commercial prosperity passed -away with the empire of Delhi, and its ruin has -been completed since it fell under the iron -despotism of the present rulers of Sinde. It -does not contain a population of 15,000 souls; -and of the houses scattered about its ruins, -one half are destitute of inhabitants. It is -said, that the dissentions between the last and -present dynasties, which led to Sinde being overrun -by the Afghans, terrified the merchants of -the city, who fled the country at that time, and -have had no encouragement to return. Of the -weavers of “loongees” (a kind of silk and cotton -manufacture), for which this place was once so -famous, but 125 families remain. There are not -forty merchants<a id="FNanchor_4" href="#Footnote_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> in the city. Twenty money-changers -transact all the business of Tatta; and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">[31]</span> -its limited population is now supplied with -animal food by five butchers. Such has been -the gradual decay of that mighty city, so populous -in the early part of last century, in the days -of Nadir Shah. The country in its vicinity lies -neglected, and but a small portion of it is -brought under tillage.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Its antiquity.</div> - -<p>The antiquity of Tatta is unquestioned. The -Pattala of the Greeks has been sought for in its -position, and, I believe, with good reason; for -the Indus here divides into two great branches; -and these are the words of the historian:—“Near -Pattala, the river Indus divides itself -into two vast branches.”<a id="FNanchor_5" href="#Footnote_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> Both Robertson -and Vincent appear to have entertained the -opinion of its identity with Tatta. The Hindoo -Rajas named it Sameenuggur, before the Mahommedan -invasion; which I believe to be the -Minagur of the Periplus. There is a ruined city, -called Kullancote, to be yet seen, four miles S.W. -of Tatta. It was also named Brahminabad, and -ruled by one brother, while another held Hydrabad, -then called Nerancote; the Arabs called -it Dewul Sindy. Nuggur Tatta (by which it is -now familiarly known) is a more modern name. -Till the Talpoors secured their present footing -in Sinde, it was always the capital of the country. -It is an open town, built on a rising ground in a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">[32]</span> -low valley. In several wells I found bricks imbedded -in earth, at a depth of twenty feet from -the surface; but there are no remains of a -prior date to the tombs, on a remarkable ridge -westward of the town, which are about 200 years -old. The houses are formed of wood and wicker-work, -plastered over with earth; they are lofty, -with flat roofs, but very confined, and resemble -square towers; their colour, which is of a greyish -murky hue, gives an appearance of solidity to -the frail materials of which they are constructed. -Some of the better sort have a base of brickwork; -but stone has only been used in the -foundations of one or two mosques, though it -may be had in abundance. There is little in -modern Tatta to remind one of its former greatness. -A spacious brick mosque, built by Shah -Jehan, still remains, but is crumbling to decay.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Hinglaj, -a famous -pilgrimage.</div> - -<p>Tatta stands on the high road from India to -Hinglaj, in Mekran, a place of pilgrimage and -great celebrity, situated under the barren mountains -of Hala (the Irus of the ancients), and -marked only by a spring of fresh water, without -house or temple. The spot is believed to have -been visited by Ramchunder, the Hindoo demi-god, -himself; an event which is chronicled on -the rock, with figures of the sun and moon -engraven as further testimony! The distance -from Tatta exceeds 200 miles; and the road<span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">[33]</span> -passes by Curachee, Soumeeanee, and the province -of Lus, the country of the Noomrees, a -portion of the route of Alexander the Great. A -journey to Hinglaj purifies the pilgrim from his -sins; a cocoa-nut, cast into a cistern, exhibits -the nature of his career: if the water bubbles -up, his life has been, and will continue, pure; but -if still and silent, the Hindoo must undergo -further penance, to appease the deity. The -tribe of Goseins, who are a kind of religious -mendicants, though frequently merchants and -most wealthy, frequent this sequestered place, -and often extend their journey to an island called -Seetadeep, not far from Bunder Abbass, in Persia. -They travel in caravans of an hundred, or even -more, under an “agwa,” or spiritual guide. At -Tatta they are furnished by the high-priest with -a rod, which is supposed to partake of his own -virtues, and to conduct the <i>cortège</i> to its destination. -In exchange for its talismanic powers, each -pilgrim pays three rupees and a half, and faithfully -promises to restore the rod on his return; for no -one dares to reside in so holy and solitary a spot. -The “agwa” receives with it his reward; and -many a Hindoo expends in this pilgrimage the -hard-earned wealth of a whole life. On his -arrival at Tatta from Hinglaj, he is invested -with a string of white beads, peculiar to that -city, and only found on the rocky ridge near it<span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">[34]</span>. -They resemble the grains of pulse or juwaree; -and the pilgrim has the satisfaction of believing -that they are the petrified grain of the Creator, -left on earth to remind him of his creation. -They now form a monopoly and source of profit -to the priests of Tatta.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Climate. -Return to -the mouth -of the Indus.</div> - -<p>We quitted Tatta on the morning of the 10th -of April, and retraced our steps to Meerpoor; a -distance of twenty-four miles, over roads nearly -impassable from rain. I observe, in Hamilton’s -“India,” that there is frequently a dearth of it -here for three years at a time; but we had very -heavy showers and a severe fall of hail, though -the thermometer stood at 86°. The dews and -mists about Tatta make it a disagreeable residence -at this season; and the dust is described -as intolerable in June and July.</p> - -<p>Our road lay through a desert country along -the “Buggaur;” one of the two large branches -of the Indus, which separate below Tatta. It -has its name from the destructive velocity with -which it runs, tearing up trees in its course. It has -been forsaken for a few years past, and had only -a width of 200 yards where we crossed it, below -Meerpoor. The Indus itself, before this division -takes place, is a noble river; and we beheld it at -Tatta with high gratification. The water is foul -and muddy; but it is 2000 feet wide, two fathoms -and a half deep, from shore to shore. When I<span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">[35]</span> -first saw it, the surface was agitated by a violent -wind, which had raised up waves, that raged -with great fury; and I no longer felt wonder at -the natives designating so vast a river by the -name of “durya,” or the Sea of Sinde.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Notions of -the people.</div> - -<p>On our return, we saw much of the people, -who were disposed from the first to treat us more -kindly than the government. Their notions -regarding us were strange: some asked us why -we allowed dogs to clean our hands after a meal, -and if we indiscriminately ate cats and mice, as -well as pigs. They complained much of their -rulers, and the ruinous and oppressive system of -taxation to which they were subjected, as it -deterred them from cultivating any considerable -portion of land. Immense tracts of the richest soil -lie in a state of nature, between Tatta and the -sea, overgrown with tamarisk shrubs, which -attain, in some places, the height of twenty feet, -and, threading into one another, form impervious -thickets. At other places, we passed extensive -plains of hard-caked clay, with remains of ditches -and aqueducts, now neglected. We reached the -sea in two days.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Alexander’s -journey.</div> - -<p>Arrian informs us, that, after Alexander returned -from viewing the right branch of the -Indus, he again set out from Pattala, and descended -the other branch of the river, which -conducted him to a “certain lake, joined either<span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">[36]</span> -by the river spreading wide over a flat country, -or by additional streams flowing into it from -the adjacent parts, and making it appear like a -bay in the sea.” There, too, he commanded -another haven to be built, named Xylenopolis. -The professed object of this second voyage to -the sea was to seek for bays and creeks on the -sea-coast, and to explore which of the two -branches would afford the greatest facilities for -the passage of his fleet; for Arrian says, “he -had a vast ambition of sailing all through the -sea, from India to Persia, to prove that the -Indian Gulf had a communication with the -Persian.” In this bay Alexander landed, with -a party of horse, and travelled along the coast, -to try if he could find bays and creeks to -secure his fleets from storms; “<i>causing wells to -be dug, to supply his navy with water</i>.” I -look upon it, therefore, as conclusive that Alexander -the Great descended by the Buggaur and -Sata, the two great branches below Tatta, and -never entered Cutch, as has been surmised, but -that his three days’ journey, after descending the -eastern branch, was westward, and between the -two mouths, in the direction his fleet was to sail.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Embark on -the Indus. -Boats.</div> - -<p>On the 12th of April, we embarked in the -flat-bottomed boats, or “doondees,” of Sinde, -and commenced our voyage on the Indus, with -no small degree of satisfaction. Our fleet con<span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">[37]</span>sisted -of six of these flat-bottomed vessels, -and a small English-built pinnace, which we had -brought from Cutch. The boats of the Indus -are not unlike China junks, very capacious, but -most unwieldy. They are floating houses; and -with ourselves we transported the boatmen, their -wives and families, kids and fowls. When there -is no wind, they are pulled up against the stream, -by ropes attached to the mast-head, at the rate of -a mile and a half an hour; but with a breeze, -they set a large square-sail, and advance double -the distance. We halted at Vikkur, which is -the first port; a place of considerable export for -grain, that had then fifty “doondees,” besides -sea-vessels, lying near it.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Wanyanee -branch.</div> - -<p>On the 13th, we threaded many small creeks -for a distance of eight miles, and then entered -the Wanyanee, or principal branch of the Indus, -which is a fine river, 500 yards broad and 24 feet -deep. Its banks were alternately steep and flat, -the course very crooked, and the different turnings -were often marked by branches running -from this trunk to other arms of the delta. We -had nothing but tamarisk on either bank, and -the reed huts of a few fishermen, alone indicated -that we were in a peopled country.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">A holy -man.</div> - -<p>As we ascended the river, the inhabitants -came for miles around to see us. A Syud stood -on the water’s edge, and gazed with astonish<span class="pagenum" id="Page_38">[38]</span>ment. -He turned to his companion as we -passed, and, in the hearing of one of our party, -said, “Alas! Sinde is now gone, since the English -have seen the river, which is the road to -its conquest.” If such an event do happen, I -am certain that the body of the people will hail -the happy day; but it will be an evil one for the -Syuds, the descendants of Mahommed, who are -the only people, besides the rulers, that derive -precedence and profit from the existing order of -things.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Strictness -of religious -observances.</div> - -<p>Nothing more arrests the notice of a stranger, -on entering Sinde, than the severe attention of -the people to the forms of religion, as enjoined -by the Prophet of Arabia. In all places, the -meanest and poorest of mankind may be seen, at -the appointed hours, turned towards Mecca, -offering up their prayers. I have observed a -boatman quit the laborious duty of dragging the -vessel against the stream, and retire to the shore, -wet and covered with mud, to perform his genuflexions. -In the smallest villages, the sound of -the “mowuzzun,” or crier, summoning true believers -to prayers, may be heard, and the Mahommedans -within reach of the sonorous sound -suspend, for the moment, their employment, that -they may add their “Amen” to the solemn sentence -when concluded. The effect is pleasing -and impressive; but, as has often happened in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">[39]</span> -other countries at a like stage of civilisation, the -moral qualities of the people do not keep pace -with this fervency of devotion.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Navigation -of the Indus.</div> - -<p>On the evening of the 15th, we anchored at -Tatta, after a prosperous voyage, that afforded a -good insight into the navigation of the Indus; -which, in the Delta, is both dangerous and difficult. -The water runs with impetuosity from -one bank to another, and undermines them so, -that they often fall in masses which would crush -a vessel. During night they may be heard -tumbling with a terrific crash and a noise as loud -as artillery. In one place, the sweep of the river -was so sudden that it had formed a kind of -whirlpool, and all our vessels heeled round, on -passing it, from the rapidity of the current. We -had every where six fathoms of water, and in -these eddies the depth was sometimes threefold; -but our vessels avoided the strength of the current, -and shifted from side to side, to choose the -shallows.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Pulla fish.</div> - -<p>We ascended the Indus in the season of the -“pulla,” a fish of the carp species, as large as -the mackerel, and fully equalling the flavour of -salmon. It is only found in the four months -that precede the swell of the river from January -to April, and never higher than the fortress of -Bukkur. The natives superstitiously believe the -fish to proceed there on account of Khaju<span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">[40]</span> -Khizr, a saint of celebrity, who is interred there, -from whence they are said to return without ever -turning their tails on the sanctified spot,—an -assertion which the muddy colour of the Indus -will prevent being contradicted. The mode of -catching this fish is ingenious, and peculiar, I -believe, to the Indus. Each fisherman is provided -with a large earthen jar, open at the top, -and somewhat flat. On this he places himself, -and, lying on it horizontally, launches into -the stream, swimming or pushing forward like -a frog, and guiding himself with his hands. -When he has reached the middle of the river, -where the current is strongest, he darts his net -directly under him, and sails down with the -stream. The net consists of a pouch attached -to a pole, which he shuts on meeting his game; -he then draws it up, spears it, and, putting it -into the vessel on which he floats, prosecutes -his occupation. There are some vessels of small -dimensions, without any orifice, and on these -the fishermen sail down, in a sitting posture. -Hundreds of people, old and young, may be -seen engaged in catching pulla, and the season -is hailed with joy by the people, as furnishing -a wholesome food while it lasts, and an -abundant supply of dry fish for the remaining -part of the year, as well as for exportation to -the neighbouring countries.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">[41]</span></p> - -<div class="sidenote">Reach the -capital.</div> - -<p>On the morning of the 18th, we moored opposite -Hydrabad, which is five miles inland, -having had a strong and favourable breeze from -Tatta, that brought us against the stream, at the -rate of three miles an hour. The dust was intolerable -every where, and a village might always -be discovered by the dense clouds which hovered -over it. This part of Sinde is well -known: the country is devoted to sterility by -the Ameers, to feed their passion for the chase. -The banks are enclosed to the water’s edge, -and the interior of these hunting-thickets is -overgrown with furze, brushwood, and stunted -babool trees, which always retain a verdant -hue, from the richness of the soil. One or -two solitary camels were to be seen raising -water to fill the pools of these preserves, as the -Ameer and his relatives had announced a hunting -excursion, and the deer<a id="FNanchor_6" href="#Footnote_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> would be drawn by -thirst to drink at the only fountain, and shot by -an Ameer from a place of concealment. It is -thus that the chiefs sport with their game and -their subjects.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Deputation -from the -Ameer.</div> - -<p>Immediately on our arrival, four different deputations -waited on us, to convey the congratulations -of Meer Moorad Ali Khan, and his -family, at our having reached the capital of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">[42]</span> -Sinde, and at the same time to tender the -strongest professions of friendship and respect -for the British government; to all of which I -returned suitable answers. In the evening we -were conducted to Hydrabad, and alighted at -the house, or “tanda,” of Nawab Wulee Mahommed -Khan, the Vizier of Sinde, whose son, -in the father’s absence, was appointed our mihmandar. -Tents were pitched, and provisions of -every description sent to us; and it would, indeed, -have been difficult to discover that we -were the individuals who had so long lingered -about the shores of Sinde, now the honoured -guests of its jealous master. Great and small -were in attendance on us: khans and Syuds, -servants and chobdars brought messages and -enquiries, till the night was far spent; and it -may not be amiss to mention, as a specimen of -conducting business in Sinde, that the barber, -the water-cooler, and the prime minister were -sent indiscriminately with errands on the same -subject.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Preparations -for -reception at -court.</div> - -<p>The ceremonial of our reception was soon -adjusted, but not without some exhibition of -Sindian character. After the time had been -mutually fixed for the following afternoon, our -mihmandar made his appearance at <i>daybreak</i>, to -request that we would then accompany him to the -palace. I spoke of the arrangements that had<span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">[43]</span> -been made; but he treated all explanation with -indifference, and eulogised, in extravagant language, -the great condescension of his master in -giving us an interview so early, while the Vakeels, -or representatives of other states, often waited -for weeks. I informed the Khan that I entertained -very different sentiments regarding his -master’s giving us so early a reception, and assured -him that I viewed it as no sort of favour, -and was satisfied that the Ameer himself was -proud in receiving, at any time, any agent of -the British Government. The reply silenced -him, and he shortly afterwards withdrew, and -sent an apology for this importunity, which, he -stated, had originated in a mistake. The pride -of the Sindian must be met by the same weapons; -and, however disagreeable the line of -conduct, it will be found, in all matters of negotiation, -to carry along with it its own reward: -altercations that have passed will be succeeded -by civility and politeness, and a shade of oblivion -will be cast over all that is unpleasant.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Presentation.</div> - -<p>In the evening we were presented to the -Ameer of Sinde by his son, Nusseer Khan, who -had previously received us in his own apartments, -to inform us of his attachment to the -British Government, and the state secret of his -having been the means of procuring for us a -passage through Sinde. We found the Ameer<span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">[44]</span> -seated in the middle of a room, attended by his -various relatives: they all rose on our entrance, -and were studiously polite. His Highness addressed -me by name; said I was his friend, both -on public and private grounds; for my brother -(Dr. Burnes) had cured him of a dangerous disease. -At the same time he caused me to be -seated along with him on the cushion which he -occupied: he begged that I would forget the difficulties -and dangers encountered, and consider -him as the ally of the British Government, and -my own friend. The long detention which -had occurred in our advance, he continued, -had arisen from his ignorance of political concerns, -as he considered it involved a breach of -the treaty between the states; for he was a -soldier, and knew little of such matters, and -was employed in commanding <i>the three hundred -thousand Beloochees</i>, over whom God had appointed -him to rule! We had now, however, -arrived at his capital, and he assured us that -we were welcome: his own state barge should -convey us to his frontier; his subjects should -drag our vessels against the stream. Elephants -and palanqueens were at our disposal, if we -would accept them; and he would vie in exertion -with ourselves, to forward, in safety, the -presents of his Most Gracious Majesty the King -of Great Britain, and had nominated the son of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_45">[45]</span> -his Vizier to accompany us to the limits of -his territories. I did not deem it necessary to -enter into any explanation with his Highness, -nor to give him in return the muster-roll of -our mighty army. I thanked him for his marks -of attention to the Government and ourselves, -and said, that I was glad to find that the -friendship between the states, which had led -to my taking the route through his dominions, -had not been underrated; for it would be worse -than folly in an unprotected individual to attempt -a passage by the Indus without his cordial -concurrence. With regard to the dangers and -difficulties which had been already encountered, -I assured his Highness, that the prevailing good -fortune of the British Government had predominated; -and though it was not in the power -of man to avert calamities by sea, we had by -the favour of God happily escaped them all, -and I doubted not that the authorities I served -would derive as much satisfaction from the manner -in which he had now received us as I -myself did. The interview here terminated; -his Highness previously fixing the following -morning for a second meeting, when I would -communicate some matters of a political nature -with which I had been charged by the Government.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Court of -Sinde.</div> - -<p>I shall not enter on a description of the Court<span class="pagenum" id="Page_46">[46]</span> -of Sinde, as it may be found in Lieut. Col. Pottinger’s -work, and in a narrative lately published -by my brother.<a id="FNanchor_7" href="#Footnote_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a> Its splendour must have faded, -for though the Ameer and his family certainly -wore some superb jewels, there was not much -to attract our notice in their palace or durbar: -they met in a dirty hall without a carpet; they -sat in a room which was filled by a rabble of -greasy soldiery, and the noise and dust were -hardly to be endured. The orders of the Ameer -himself to procure silence, though repeated -several times, were ineffectual, and some of -the conversation was inaudible on that account. -We were, however, informed that the crowd -had been collected to display the legions of -Sinde; and they certainly contrived to fill the -alleys and passages every where, not could we -pass out of the fort without some exertion on -the part of the nobles, who were our conductors.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Presents.</div> - -<p>I followed up the interview by sending the -government presents which I had brought for -his Highness: they consisted of various articles -of European manufacture,—a gun, a brace of -pistols, a gold watch, two telescopes, a clock, -some English shawls and cloths, with two pair -of elegant cut glass candlesticks and shades. -Some Persian works beautifully lithographed in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_47">[47]</span> -Bombay, and a map of the World and Hindoostan, -in Persian characters, completed the gift. -The principal Ameer had previously sent two -messages, begging that I would not give the -articles to any person but himself; and the possessor -of fifteen millions sterling portioned, with -a partial hand, among the members of his family, -the gifts that did not exceed the value of a few -hundred pounds. - - -<span class="sidenote">Sindian -meanness.</span> -His meanness may be imagined, -when he privately deputed his Vizier to beg -that I would exchange the clock and candlesticks -for some articles among the presents, which -I doubtless had for other chiefs, as they formed -no part of the furniture of a Sindian palace. I -told the Vizier that the presents which I had -brought were intended to display the manufactures -of Europe, and it was not customary to -give the property of one person to another. -This denial produced a second message; and, -as a similar occurrence happened, in 1809, to a -mission at this court, we gather from the coincidence -how little spirit and feeling actuate the -cabinet of Hydrabad. Some score of trays, -loaded with fruit and sweetmeats adorned with -gold-leaf, and sent by the different members of -the family, closed the day.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Parting interview.</div> - -<p>Early in the morning, we were conducted to -the durbar by Meer Ismaeel Shah, one of the -Viziers, and our mihmandar: on the road the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_48">[48]</span> -Vizier took occasion to assure me how much I -would please the Ameer by changing the clock! -There was more order and regularity in our -second interview, which was altogether very -satisfactory; for the Ameer gave a ready assent -to the wishes of Government when they -were communicated to him. The conversation -which ensued was of the most friendly description. -His Highness asked particularly for -my brother, looked attentively at our dress, and -was much amused with the shape and feather of -the cocked hat I wore. Before bidding him -adieu, he repeated, in even stronger language, all -his yesterday’s professions; and, however questionable -his sincerity, I took my departure with -much satisfaction at what had passed, since it -seemed he would no longer interrupt our advance -to Lahore. Meer Nusseer Khan, the son -of the Ameer, presented me with a handsome -Damascus sword, which had a scabbard of red -velvet ornamented with gold; his father sent -me a purse of fifteen hundred rupees, with an -apology, that he had not a blade mounted as he -desired, and begged I would accept the value of -one. After all the inconvenience to which we -had been subjected, we hardly expected such a -reception at Hydrabad. Next morning we left -the city, and encamped on the banks of the -Indus near our boats.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_49">[49]</span></p> - -<div class="sidenote">Scenery -near Hydrabad.</div> - -<p>The scenery near the capital of Sinde is varied -and beautiful: the sides of the river are lined -with lofty trees; and there is a background of -hill to relieve the eye from the monotony which -presents itself in the dusty arid plains of the -Delta. The Indus is larger, too, than in most -places lower down, being about 830 yards wide; -there is a sand-bank in the middle, but it is hidden -by the stream. The island on which Hydrabad -stands is barren, from the rocky and hilly -nature of the soil, but even the arable parts are -poorly cultivated.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Hydrabad.</div> - -<p>On the capital itself, I can add little to the -accounts which are already on record. It does -not contain a population of twenty thousand -souls, who live in houses, or rather huts, built of -mud. The residence of the chief himself is a -comfortless miserable dwelling. The fort, as -well as the town, stands on a rocky hillock; and -the former is a mere shell, partly surrounded by -a ditch, about ten feet wide and eight deep, over -which there is a wooden bridge. The walls are -about twenty-five feet high, built of brick, and -fast going to decay. Hydrabad is a place of no -strength, and might readily be captured by -escalade. In the centre of the fort there is a -massive tower, unconnected with the works, -which overlooks the surrounding country. Here -are deposited a great portion of the riches of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">[50]</span> -Sinde. The Fulailee river insulates the ground -on which Hydrabad stands; but, though a -considerable stream during the swell, it was -quite dry when we visited this city in April. -The view of Hydrabad, prefixed to this volume, -and for which I am indebted to Captain M. -Grindlay, faithfully represents that capital and -the country which surrounds it.</p> - - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_51">[51]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAP_III">CHAP. III.<br /> - -<span class="smaller">VOYAGE TO BUKKUR.</span></h2> -</div> - - - -<div class="sidenote">Departure -from Hydrabad.</div> - -<p>On the morning of the 23d of April, we -embarked in the state barge of the Ameer, -which is called a “jumtee” by the natives of the -country. They are very commodious vessels, -of the same build as the other flat-bottomed -boats of the Indus, and sadly gainsayed the -beggarly account which his Highness had, in his -correspondence, so often given of the craft in -the river. It was about sixty feet long, and had -three masts, on which we hoisted as many sails, -made of alternate stripes of red and white cloth. -There were two cabins, connected with each -other by a deck; but, contrary to the custom -in other countries, the one at the bows is the -post of honour. It was of a pavilion shape, -covered with scarlet cloth, and the eyes of -intruders were excluded on all sides by silken -screens. The jumtee was further decorated by -variegated flags and pendants, some of which -were forty feet long. We hoisted the British -ensign at the stern of our pinnace, the first time, -I suppose, it had ever been unfurled on the -Indus; and the little vessel which bore it out-sailed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_52">[52]</span> -all the fleet. I hope the omen was -auspicious, and that the commerce of Britain -may soon follow her flag. We moved merrily -through the water, generally with a fair wind, -anchoring always at night, and pitching our -camp on the shore, pleased to find ourselves -beyond the portals of Hydrabad.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Sehwun.</div> - -<p>We reached Sehwun on the 1st of May, a -distance of 100 miles, in eight days. There -was little to interest us on the banks of the -river, which are thinly peopled, and destitute of -trees or variety to diversify the scene. The -Lukkee mountains, a high range, came in sight -on the third day, running in upon the Indus at -Sehwun. The stream itself, though grand and -magnificent, was often divided by sand-banks, -and moved sluggishly along at the rate of two -miles and a half an hour. One of our boats had -nearly sunk from coming in contact with a protruding -stump; an accident of frequent occurrence -on the Indus, as well as on the American -rivers, and sometimes attended with fatal results, -particularly to vessels descending the -stream. Our escape from calamity gave the -Sindians a topic for congratulation, and we -daily heard the greatness of our fortune proclaimed. -Every trivial incident, a slight breeze -or any such occurrence, they did not hesitate to -ascribe to our destiny.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_53">[53]</span></p> - -<div class="sidenote">Crew of the -boat.</div> - -<p>Our crew consisted of sixteen men; and a -happy set of beings they were: they waded -through the water all day, and swam and sported -about, as they passed along, with joyous hearts, -returning occasionally to the boat to indulge in -the hooka, and the intoxicating “bang,” or -hemp, to which they are much addicted. They -prepare this drug by straining the juice from the -seeds and stalks through a cloth: when ready -for use, it resembles green putrid water. It -must be very pernicious. I do not know if I -can class their pipes among the movables of the -ship; for their stands were formed of a huge -piece of earthenware, too heavy to be lifted, -which remains at the stern, where the individuals -retire to inhale the weed, made doubly -noxious by its being mixed with opium. The -sailors of Sinde are Mahommedans. They are -very superstitious, the sight of a crocodile below -Hydrabad is an evil omen which would never -be forgotten; and in that part of the Indus -these monsters certainly confined themselves to -the deep.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">A Sindian -song.</div> - -<p>In the songs and chorus which the Sindians -use in pulling their ropes and sails, we discover -their reverence for saints. Seafaring people -are, I believe, musical in all countries; and, -though in a strange dialect, there is simplicity -and beauty in some of the following <span class="lock">rhymes:—</span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_54">[54]</span></p> - - -<p><i>Original.</i></p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">Hulam hulam hyl, Joomba lanee,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Leenlanee, Hewa qila,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Mudud peeran. Dawa fuqueeran</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Dawa jee nalee. Beree chale:</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Beree ranee, Surung sookhanee.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Oono panee, ——————</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Lumba kooa, Sulamut hooa,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Wujun dumana Acbar Shah ja.</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - - -<p><i>Translation.</i></p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">Pull, oh! pull! Use your strength,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Raise your shoulders, By the favour of God,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Press your feet. By the Saint’s assistance</div> - <div class="verse indent0">The boat will sail, She is a pretty boat:</div> - <div class="verse indent0">The steersman’s a warrior. The water is deep,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">The mast is tall. She will reach in safety.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Beat the drum Of King Acbar,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">The port is attained By the favour of God.</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>Another specimen runs <span class="lock">thus:—</span></p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">Peer Putta! Jug ditta,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Nuggur Tatta! Panee mitta.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Julla kejye, Tanee lejge,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Tan tumasha: Bunder khasa,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Bundur koochee. Murd Beloochee.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Bundur maryo, Rub dekkaryo.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Moolk Hubeebee. Rub a rubbee.</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - - -<p><i>Translation.</i></p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">Hail, Peer Putta! Who has seen the world,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Hail, city of Tatta! The water is sweet.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Pull together, Pull at once,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Pull for joy. The port is good,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Tho’ the harbour is small. The men are Beloochees.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Behold the harbour tower, Which God has shown us.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">The country is God’s, By God we came.</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_55">[55]</span></p> -<p>As we discovered the mosques of Sehwun, the -boatmen in their joy beat a drum, and chanted -many of these verses, which had a pleasing -sound on passing the base of the Lukkee mountains, -that present a rocky buttress to the Indus -on approaching Sehwun.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Sehwun, -its antiquity.</div> - -<p>The town of Sehwun stands on a rising -ground, at the verge of a swamp, two miles -from the Indus, close to a branch of that river -called Arul, which flows from Larkhanu. It -has a population of about 10,000 souls, and is -commanded on the north side by a singular -castle or mound of earth. Sehwun is sometimes -called Sewistan, and is a place of antiquity. -There are many ruined mosques and tombs -which surround it, and proclaim its former -wealth; but it has gradually gone to decay -since it ceased to be the residence of a governor, -who here held his court in the days of Moghul -splendour. As it stands near the Lukkee mountains, -I believe it may be fixed on as the city of -Sambus, Raja of the Indian mountaineers, mentioned -by Alexander. The Sindomanni cannot -refer to the inhabitants of Lower Sinde, which -is always called Pattala, and its ruler the “prince -of the Pattalans.” Sindee is the modern term -for the aboriginal inhabitants.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Pilgrimage -of Sehwun.</div> - -<p>Sehwun has considerable celebrity and sanctity -from the tomb of a holy saint of Khorasan,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_56">[56]</span> -by name Lal Shah Baz, who was interred -here about 600 years ago. The shrine stands -in the centre of the town, and rests under -a lofty dome at one end of a quadrangular -building, which is handsomely ornamented by -blue painted slabs, like Dutch tiles, that give it -a rich appearance. A cloth of gold, with two -other successive palls of red silk, are suspended -over the sepulchre, and on the walls which surround -it are inscribed in large Arabic letters -the praises of the deceased, and extracts from -the Koran. Ostrich eggs, peacocks’ feathers, -beads, flowers, &c. complete the furniture of this -holy spot; and pigeons, the emblems of peace, -are encouraged to perch on the cloths which -shade the remains of departed virtue. The -miracles of Lal Shah Baz are endless, if you -believe the people. The Indus is subject to his -commands, and no vessel dares to pass his shrine -without making a propitiatory offering at his -tomb. Thousands of pilgrims flock to the consecrated -spot, and the monarchs of Cabool and -India have often visited the sanctuary. The -drums which proclaim the majesty of the saint -are a gift from the renowned persecutor Alla-o-deen, -who reigned <span class="allsmcap">A.D.</span> 1242; and the gate, -which is of silver, attests the homage and devotion -of a deceased Ameer of Sinde. The -needy are daily supplied with food from the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_57">[57]</span> -charity of the stranger; but the universal bounty -has corrupted the manners of the inhabitants, -who are a worthless and indolent set of men. -The Hindoo joins with the Mahommedan in his -veneration of the saint, and artfully insinuates -“Lal” to be a Hindoo name, and that the -Mahommedans have associated with the faith -of their prophet the god of an infidel creed. A -tiger, once the tenant of the neighbouring hills, -partakes of the general bounty in a cage near -the tomb.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Castle of -Sehwun, -its antiquity.</div> - -<p>By far the most singular building at Sehwun, -and perhaps on the Indus, is the ruined -castle which overlooks the town, and is in all -probability as old as the age of the Greeks. It -consists of a mound of earth sixty feet high, -and surrounded from the very ground by a brick -wall. The shape of the castle is oval, about -1200 feet long by 750 in diameter. The interior -presents a heap of ruins, and is strewed with -broken pieces of pottery and brick. The gateway -is on the town side, and has been arched: -a section through it proves the whole mound -to be artificial. At a distance this castle resembles -the drawings of the Mujilebe tower at -Babylon, described by Mr. Rich in his interesting -Memoir.</p> - -<p>The natives afford no satisfactory account of -this ruin, attributing it to the age of Budur-ool-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_58">[58]</span>Jamal, -a fairy, whose agency is referred to in -every thing ancient or wonderful in Sinde. It -is to be observed, that the Arul river passes close -to this castle; and we are informed by Quintus -Curtius that, in the territories of Sabus Raja, -(which I imagine refers to Sehwun,) “Alexander -took the strongest city by a tunnel formed by -his miners.” A ruin of such magnitude, -standing, as it therefore does, on such a site, -would authorise our fixing on it as the very city -“where the barbarians, untaught in engineering, -were confounded when their enemies -appeared, almost in the middle of the city, -rising from a subterraneous passage of which -no trace was previously seen.” So strong a -position would not, in all probability, be neglected -in after-times; and in the reign of the -Emperor Humaioon, <span class="allsmcap">A.D.</span> 1541, we find that -monarch unable to capture Sehwun, from which -he fled on his disastrous journey to Omercote. -His son Acbar also invested Sehwun for seven -months, and after its capture seems to have -dismantled it. There are many coins found in -the castle of Sehwun; but among thirty I could -find no trace of the Greek alphabet. They were -Mahommedan coins of the sovereigns of Delhi.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Mound of -Amree.</div> - -<p>About eighteen miles below Sehwun, and on -the same side of the river, is the village of -Amree, believed to have been once a large city,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_59">[59]</span> -and the favourite residence of former kings. -It is said to have been swept into the Indus. -Near the modern village, however, there is a -mound of earth, about forty feet high, which -the traditions of the country point out as the -halting-place of a king, who ordered the dung -of his cavalry to be gathered together, and -hence the mound of Amree! There are some -tombs near it, but they are evidently modern.</p> - -<p>We halted four days at Sehwun. The climate -was most sultry and oppressive: the thermometer -stood at 112°, and did not fall below 100° -at midnight, owing to scorching winds from the -west, where the country is bleak and mountainous. -The lofty range which runs parallel -with the Indus from the sea-coast to the centre -of Asia, is joined by the Lukkee mountains -south of Sehwun, and thus excludes the refreshing -breezes of the ocean.</p> - -<p>We quitted Sehwun on the 4th with difficulty, -for we could not procure men to drag -our boats. The mihmandar, though he was -the vizier’s son, and acted under the seal of -the Ameer, could not prevail on the Calendar, -or priest of the tomb, who said that no such -order had been ever given, and he would not -now obey it. Some persons were seized: his -people drew their swords, and said that, when -no longer able to wield them, they might go.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_60">[60]</span> -We knew nothing of the matter till it was over, -as it was entirely a private arrangement of Syud -Tukkee Shah, the mihmandar. When the men -heard they were to be remunerated for their -trouble, they came of their own accord before -we sailed. Every thing in Sinde being effected -by force under despotism, the watermen of -Sehwun fled the town, or took up their abode -in the sanctuary, when they saw the “jumtee” -approach, believing, as usual, that services would -be required of them gratuitously.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Congratulations -from -Khyrpoor.</div> - -<p>On the day after quitting Sehwun, we were -met by Mahommed Gohur, a Belooche chief, -and a party, the confidential agents of Meer -Roostum Khan, the Ameer of Khyrpoor, who -had been sent to the frontier, a distance of -eighty miles, to congratulate us on our arrival, -and declare their master’s devotion to the British -Government. We hardly expected such a mark -of attention in Sinde, and were therefore gratified. -The deputation brought an abundant -supply of sheep, flour, fruit, spices, sugar, butter, -ghee, tobacco, opium, &c. &c., on which our -people feasted. Sheep were slain and cooked; -rice and ghee were soon converted into savoury -viands; and I believe all parties thanked Meer -Roostum Khan as heartily as we did, nor did I -imagine that this was but the commencement of -a round of feasting which was daily repeated<span class="pagenum" id="Page_61">[61]</span> -so long as we were in his country, a period of -three weeks. Mahommed Gohur was a decrepit -old man, with a red beard. He wore a very -handsome loongee round his waist. He did not -recover from his surprise throughout the interview, -for he had never before seen an European.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Address the -Ameer of -Khyrpoor.</div> - -<p>In return for Meer Roostum Khan’s kindness, -I addressed to him a Persian letter in the following -terms, which will serve as a specimen of the -epistolary style used by the people of this country, -which I imitated as closely as possible.:—</p> - -<p>(After compliments:) “I hasten to inform your -Highness that I have reached the frontiers of -your country in company with the respectable -Syud Tukkee Shah, who has accompanied me -on the part of Meer Morad Ali Khan from -Hydrabad. As I have long since heard of -your Highness from those who pass between -Cutch and Sinde, it forms a source of congratulation -to me that I have arrived in your -dominions, and brought along with me in -safety the presents which have been graciously -bestowed on Maha Raja Runjeet Sing by His -Majesty the King of England, mighty in rank, -terrible as the planet Mars, a monarch great -and magnificent, of the rank of Jemshid, of -the dignity of Alexander, unequalled by Darius, -just as Nousherwan, great as Fureedoon,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_62">[62]</span> -admired as Cyrus, famed as the Sun, the destroyer -of tyranny and oppression, upright -and generous, pious and devout, favoured -from above, &c. &c.: may his dominion endure -for ever!</p> - -<p>“It is well known that when a friend comes -to the country of a friend it is a source of -much happiness, and I have therefore written -these few lines; but when I have the pleasure -of seeing you, my joy will be increased.</p> - -<p>“I had written thus far, when the respectable -Mahommed Gohur, one of those enjoying your -Highness’s confidence, arrived at this place, -to acquaint me with your professions of respect -and friendship for the British Government, -bringing along with him many marks of your -hospitality. Need I say I am rejoiced? Such -civilities mark the great.”</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Character -of the -people.</div> - -<p>A voyage of ten days brought us to Bukkur; -but we landed a few miles from that fortress, to -prepare for a visit to Khyrpoor and its chief, -who had made us so welcome in his country. -We saw much of the Sindians on our way up -the river, and did every thing to encourage -their approach by granting free admission on -board to the commonest villager who wished to -view the horses. The body of the people are -little better than savages, and extremely ignorant; -their spiritual guides and Syuds, or the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">[63]</span> -followers of the prophet, however, showed -knowledge and independence. I happened to -ask a party of Syuds to what Ameer they were -subject: they replied, “We acknowledge no -master but God, who gives us villages and all -we desire.” I was struck with the family -likeness that prevails throughout this class in -Sinde; for it is not to be supposed that a tribe -so numerous has lineally descended from the -prophet of Arabia. The beggars of Sinde are -most importunate and troublesome. They practise -all manner of persuasion to succeed in their -suit for alms; tear up grass and bushes with -their mouths, and chew sand and mud to excite -compassion.</p> - -<p>With the better orders of society we had -frequent intercourse and conversation. Some of -them felt interested about the objects of our -mission to Lahore. They did not give us -much credit for sincerity in sending it by a -route which they believed never to have been -passed since the time of Noah. They were -full of enquiries regarding our customs. Our -Khyrpoor friend, Mahomed Gohur, was particularly -horrified at our arrangements for getting -a wife, and begged me in future to let my beard -grow. The knowledge of this individual I may -describe, when he asked me if London were -under Calcutta: he was, however, a pleasant<span class="pagenum" id="Page_64">[64]</span> -man; I delighted to hear him sing the praises -of the soldiers of Sinde, who, he said, differed -from all the world in thinking it an honour to -fight on foot. The feelings of pity which some -of the people displayed for us were amusing: -they were shocked to hear that we cleaned our -teeth with hogs’ bristles. I was frequently asked -to lay aside the English saddle, which they considered -quite unworthy, and worse than a seat -on the bare back of the horse.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">The Indus: -names for -it.</div> - -<p>The Indus in this part of its course is called -Sira, in distinction from Lar, which is its appellation -below Sehwun. These are two Belooche -words for north and south; and of the name of -Sirae, or Khosa, a tribe inhabiting the desert on -the east, we have thus a satisfactory explanation; -as these people originally spread from Sira, in -the upper course of the Indus. Mehran, a name -of this river, familiar to the Indians and -foreigners, is not used by the natives of the -country. The water of the Indus is considered -superior, for every purpose of life, to that drawn -from the wells of Sinde. When taken from the -river it is very foul; but the rich keep it till the -mud with which it is loaded subsides. There -are few ferry-boats on the Indus; and it is a -curious sight to see the people crossing it on -skins and bundles of reeds. A native will often -float down to a distance of fifteen or twenty<span class="pagenum" id="Page_65">[65]</span> -miles, accompanied by a whole herd of buffaloes, -preferring this mode of travelling to a journey -on the banks. From Sehwun upwards they kill -the “pulla” fish by nets suspended from the -bow of small boats, which are, at the same time, -the habitations of the fisherman and his family. -The wife, who is generally a sturdy dame, pulls -the stern oar to keep the vessel in the middle of -the stream, often with a baby in her arms, while -the husband kills the fish. One would not have -expected to find porpoises so far from the sea; -but they are to be observed sporting in the river -as high as Bukkur; they are more grey than -those in the salt water.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Visited by -the Vizier -of Sinde.</div> - -<p>I should have mentioned, that before reaching -Bukkur, we were visited by the Nawab -Wulee Mahomed Khan Lugharee, one of the -viziers of Sinde, who had travelled from Shikarpoor -to meet us. We found him a decrepit old -man of seventy-two, on the verge of the grave. -He treated us with particular kindness, and -quite won our hearts by his attentions. He -gave me a horse and a rich loongee. He said in -the plainest terms that the Ameer had had evil -counsel to detain us so long in Sinde, and that -he had written urgently to his Highness not -to commit himself by such a step. We had -now a good opportunity of seeing a Belooche -chief on his native soil. He came with a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_66">[66]</span> -splendid equipage of tents and carpets, accompanied -by three palankeens, and about 400 -men. A set of dancing girls were among his -suite; and in the evening we were compelled, -against our inclination, to hear these ladies squall -for a couple of hours, and, what added to the -disgust of the scene, they drank at intervals of -the strongest spirits, to <i>clear their voices</i>, as they -said, until nearly intoxicated. It was impossible -to express any displeasure at this exhibition, -since the gala, however much out of taste, was -got up in the hope of adding to our amusement. -The people with us, who now amounted to 150, -were sumptuously entertained by the Nawab, -who kept us with him for two days.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Vizier of -Khyrpoor.</div> - -<p>On the morning of the 14th we disembarked -near the small village of Alipoor, and were met -by the vizier of Meer Roostum Khan, who had -come from Khyrpoor to receive us. His name -was Futteh Khan Ghoree, an aged person of -mild and affable manners, and of peculiar appearance -from a snow white beard and red hair. -Our reception was cordial and kind; the vizier -assured us of the high satisfaction with which -his master had heard of our arrival, for he had -long desired to draw closer to the British government, -and had never yet had the good -fortune to meet any of its agents. He said that -Meer Roostum Khan did not presume to put<span class="pagenum" id="Page_67">[67]</span> -himself on an equality with so potent and great -a nation, but hoped that he might be classed -among its wellwishers, and as one ready to -afford his services on all occasions. Futteh -Khan added that Khyrpoor formed a separate -portion of Sinde from Hydrabad, a fact which -he begged I would remember. I was not altogether -unprepared for this communication, for I -judged from his previous efforts to please that -the ruler had some object in view. I assured the -vizier of my sense of his master’s attentions, -and promised to talk on these matters after our -interview. He brought a palankeen to convey -me in state to Khyrpoor, a distance of fourteen -miles, to which city we marched on the following -day.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Ameer of -Khyrpoor.</div> - -<p>After what I have already stated, our interview -with Meer Roostum Khan may be well -imagined: he received us under a canopy of -silk, seated on a cushion of cloth of gold. He -was surrounded by the members of his family, -forty of whom (males), descended in a right line -from his father, are yet alive. There was more -state and show than at Hydrabad, but as little -attention to order or silence. We exchanged -the usual complimentary speeches of like occasions. -I thanked his Highness for the uniform -attention and hospitality which we had -received. Meer Roostum Khan is about fifty;<span class="pagenum" id="Page_68">[68]</span> -his beard and hair were quite white, and the -expression of his countenance, as well as his -manners, were peculiarly mild. He and his -relatives were too much taken up with our uniforms -and faces to say much; and he begged us -to return in the evening, when there would be -less bustle and confusion, to which we readily -assented. I gave him my watch before leaving, -and sent him a brace of pistols and a kaleidescope, -with various articles of European manufacture, -with which he was highly delighted. -The crowd was hardly to be penetrated, but -very orderly: they shouted as we approached; -and nothing seemed to amuse them so much as -the feathers of our hats. “Such cocks!” was -literally the expression. For about 200 yards -from the palace (if I can use such a term for -the mud buildings of Sinde) there was a street -of armed men, and among them stood thirty or -forty persons with halberds, the foresters or -huntsmen of the household.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Audience -of leave.</div> - -<p>In the evening we again visited the Ameer, -and found him seated on a terrace spread with -Persian carpets, and surrounded, as before, by -his numerous relatives. He made a long address -to me regarding his respect for the British government, -and said that I had of course learned -his sentiments from his vizier. He looked to -our Mihmandar from Hydrabad, who I found<span class="pagenum" id="Page_69">[69]</span> -had been doing every thing in his power to prevent -our meeting at all, and then changed the -conversation. The Ameer asked innumerable -questions about England and its power, remarking -that we were not formerly so military a -nation; and he had heard that a few hundred -years ago we went naked and painted our -bodies. On our religion he was very inquisitive; -and when I informed him that I had read -the Koran, he made me repeat the “Kuluma,” -or creed, in Persian and Arabic, to his inexpressible -delight. He said that our greatness -had risen from a knowledge of mankind, and -attending to other people’s concerns as well as -our own. He examined my sword, a small -cavalry sabre, and remarked that it would not -do much harm; but I rejoined, that the age of -fighting with this weapon had passed, which -drew a shout and a sigh from many present. -There was so much mildness in all that the -Ameer said that I could not believe we were in -a Belooche court. He expressed sorrow that we -could not stay a month with him; but since we -were resolved to proceed, we must take his state -barge, and the son of his vizier, to the frontier, -and accept the poor hospitality of a Belooche -soldier, meaning himself, so long as we were in -the Khyrpoor territory. I must mention that -the hospitality, which he so modestly named,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_70">[70]</span> -consisted of eight or ten sheep, with all sorts of -provisions for 150 people daily, and that while -at Khyrpoor he sent for our use, twice a day, a -meal of seventy-two dishes. They consisted of -pillaos and other native viands. The cookery -was rich, and some of them delicious. They -were served up in silver. We quitted Khyrpoor -with regret, after the attentions which we had -received. Before starting, the Ameer and his -family sent to us two daggers, and two beautiful -swords with belts ornamented by large -masses of gold. The blade of one of them -was valued at 80<i>l.</i> To these were added many -cloths and native silks; also a purse of a thousand -rupees, which I did not accept, excusing -myself by the remark that I required nothing -to make me remember the kindness of Meer -Roostum Khan.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Sindian -rule.</div> - -<p>Mr. Elphinstone has remarked, “that the -chiefs of Sinde appear to be barbarians of the -rudest stamp, without any of the barbarous -virtues,” and I fear that there is too much -truth in the character, though the Khyrpoor -family exhibited little to show themselves deserving -of the stigma; but the chiefs of this -country live entirely for themselves. They wallow -in wealth, while their people are wretched. -Professing an enthusiastic attachment to the -religion of Mahommed, they have not even a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_71">[71]</span> -substantial mosque in their territories; and at -Hydrabad, where the town stands on rock, and -indeed every where, they pray in temples of -mud, and seem ignorant of elegance or comfort -in all that concerns domestic arrangement. The -Beloochees are a particularly savage race of -people, but they are brave barbarians. From -childhood they are brought up in arms; and I -have seen some of the sons of chiefs who had -not attained the age of four or five years -strutting about with a shield and a sword of -small size, given by the parents to instil into -them, at that early period, the relish for war. -This tribe composes but a small portion of the -Sindian population; and while they are execrated -by the peaceable classes of the community for -their imperious conduct, they, on the other -hand, hate the princes by whom they are governed. -It would be difficult to conceive a -more unpopular rule, with all classes of their -subjects, than that of the Ameers of Sinde: nor -is the feeling disguised; many a fervent hope -did we hear expressed, in every part of the -country, that we were the forerunners of conquest, -the advance-guard of a conquering army. -The persons of the Ameers are secure from -danger by the number of slaves which they entertain -around their persons. These people are -called “Khaskelees,” and enjoy the confidence<span class="pagenum" id="Page_72">[72]</span> -of their masters, with a considerable share of -power: they are hereditary slaves, and a distinct -class of the community, who marry only -among themselves.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Bukkur.</div> - -<p>We marched to Bukkur on the morning of -the 19th, which is a fortress fifteen miles from -Khyrpoor, situated on an insulated rock of flint -on the Indus, with the town of Roree on one -side and Sukkur on the other. It was not to be -supposed that the Ameer would give us permission -to visit this fancied bulwark of his frontier, -and I did not press a demand which I saw -was far from agreeable; but we had good opportunities -of examining the place while passing it, -both on shore and on the river. The island is -about 800 yards long, of an oval shape, almost -entirely occupied by the fortification, which -looks more European than most Indian works: -it is a beautiful object from the banks of the -Indus; its towers are mostly shaded by large -full grown trees, and the tall date drops its -weeping leaves on the mosques and walls. There -are several other islets near it, on one of which -stands the shrine of Khaju Khizr, a holy Mahommedan, -under a dome that contributes to the -beauty of the scene. The Indus rolls past Bukkur -in two streams, each of 400 yards wide, and -the waters lash the rocks which confine them -with noise and violence. During the swell, the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_73">[73]</span> -navigation of this part of the river is dangerous, -though the boatmen of Bukkur are both expert -and daring. The town of Roree, which faces -Bukkur, stands on a precipice of flint forty feet -high, and some of its houses, which are lofty, -overhang the Indus. The inhabitants of these -can draw up water from their windows; but a -cut road in the rock supplies the citizens with -this necessary of life without risking their lives. -The opposite bank of Sukkur is not precipitous -like that of Roree. A precious relic, the lock -of Mahommed’s hair, enclosed in a golden box, -attracts the Mahommedan pilgrim to Bukkur, -though the inhabitants are chiefly Hindoos.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Grave predictions.</div> - -<p>On the banks of the Indus we had a curious -interview in the evening after our arrival with -the Vizier from Khyrpoor, who had been sent -by Meer Roostum Khan to escort us thus far, -and see that we were furnished with boats. After -requesting to be received privately, he renewed -the subject of our first conversation, and said that -he had been instructed by his master to propose -a solemn treaty of friendship with the British -government on any terms that might be named: -he then ran over the list of neighbouring states -which owed their existence to an alliance,—the -Chief of the Daodpootras, the Rawul of Jaysulmeer, -and the Rajah of Beecaneer, &c. &c. and -then concluded with a peroration full of gravity,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_74">[74]</span> -that it was foretold by astronomers, and recorded -in his books, that the English would in time -possess all India, a prediction which both Meer -Roostum and himself felt satisfied would come -to pass, when the British would ask why the -chiefs of Khyrpoor had not come forward with -an offer of allegiance. I tried to remove, but -without effect, the sad prognostications of the -minister, and declared my incompetency to enter -on such weighty matters as a treaty between the -states, without authority and before receiving a -written statement under the Ameer’s seal. I -said that I would make known the wishes that -had been expressed to my government, which -would be gratified to hear they had such -friends, which seemed to please the diplomatist; -he begged that I would bear in mind what had -passed, and exacted a promise that I would -write to him when gone, and so water the tree -of friendship, that the object might be ultimately -effected,—“for the stars and heaven proclaimed -the fortune of the English!”</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Amusing -incident.</div> - -<p>This was not the only incident of interest that -occurred at Bukkur: we had a visit from an -Afghan nobleman of rank, who had been on a -mission to the Governor-General from the late -Shah Mahmood of Herat, and was now on his -return to his native country, by the way of -Sinde and Mekran, the dissensions of dismem<span class="pagenum" id="Page_75">[75]</span>bered -Cabool preventing his passing by the -usual route. He was one of the finest natives I -ever saw, and had a flowing beard reaching to -his waist: he was full of Calcutta and its wonders, -and had adopted many of our customs. -He rode on an English saddle; but said he had -just found out that it was partly made of hog’s -skin, and brought it to beg my acceptance of it, -for he dared not take such a thing to his country, -and would not again use it. I civilly declined -the offer, and regretted that the information -regarding the materials of the saddle had been -traced to me; for, as he liked our fashions, it -was a pity he could not carry them to his own -country. Previous to the envoy’s leaving us, -he begged I would give him an English brush, -which I did with pleasure; but I did not consider -it necessary to add that, in addition to the -skin of the unclean beast, he would now have -the bristles. He went away in great good -humour with his gift, for which he offered me -his palankeen.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Mihmandar.</div> - -<p>I was sorry that I should have been the means -of giving uneasiness to the Afghan; for it seems -that he acquired his knowledge regarding the -construction of his saddle from our Sindian -Mihmandar, Tukkee Shah, who had taunted him -with uncleanness. This person was a Syud, -one of the strictest Mahommedans I ever met.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_76">[76]</span> -He was a son of Meer Ismael Shah, and of Persian -descent. We found him intelligent and -learned, and his polished manners made us -regret the loss of so agreeable a companion. -He left us at Bukkur, to take temporary charge -of the Shikarpoor district during the absence of -his brother, the Nawab. The character of this -person was singularly disfigured by Mahommedan -bigotry and superstition; while sceptical -and dispassionate on all other topics, there was -no miracle too absurd for his credence in religion. -Among other fables, he assured me that -when the Imam Hoosein had been beheaded -by the Yezeedees, and a Christian reproached -them for murdering their Prophet, one of them -fell on him; the man, instantly seizing the head -of the Imam, placed it on his breast, and it pronounced -the well-known words, “There is no -God but one God, and Mahommed is his -prophet;” which immediately silenced this -Mahommedan Judas!</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Alore, or -Arore, the -ancient -capital.</div> - -<p>While at Bukkur, I visited the ruins of Alore, -which is said to have been once the capital of a -mighty kingdom, ruled by the Dulora Rae, -and on which Roree, Bukkur, and Sukkur, have -risen. It extended from the ocean to Cashmeer, -from Candahar to Kanoje, and was divided into -four vast viceroyalties: the harbour of Diu, in -Kattywar, is expressly mentioned as one of its<span class="pagenum" id="Page_77">[77]</span> -sea-ports. It sunk under the Mahommedan -arms so early as the seventh century of the -Christian era, when subdued by the lieutenant -of the Caliph of Bagdad, Mahommed bin Cassim, -who invaded India, according to a Persian -manuscript, in search of ornaments for the seraglio -of the Caliph.</p> - -<p>The particulars of its history are to be found -at great length in the Chuchnama, a history of -Sinde in Persian believed to be authentic, and -so called from the ruler of Alore, a Brahmin, -by name Duhr bin Chuch. The ruins of Alore -are yet to be discovered in a rocky ridge four -miles south-east of Bukkur, and are now marked -by an humble hamlet, with some ruined tombs. -A low bridge with three arches, named the -“Bund of Alore or Arore,” constructed of -brick and stone, alone remains of all its greatness. -It is thrown across a valley, which in -by-gone years formed the bed of a branch of -the Indus, from which the waters fertilised the -desert, and reached the sea by Omercote and -Lucput,—a channel through which they still -find egress in a great inundation.</p> - -<p>The description of the battle which overwhelmed -the city of Alore, and terminated the -life and reign of the Dulora Rae, affords some -clue to the manners of the age. The Brahmin -appeared with a train of elephants, on one of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_78">[78]</span> -which he was seated, with two females of exquisite -beauty to supply him with wine and the -betel nut. The Mahommedans, unable to oppose -these animals, retired from the field to provide -themselves with combustibles: they filled their -pipes, and returned with them to dart fire at the -elephants, which fled in dismay and disorder<a id="FNanchor_8" href="#Footnote_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a>. -The Raja fell in the action, and his two virgin -daughters, “more beautiful than the morn,” -were despatched to Bagdad as fit ornaments for -the seraglio of the vicegerent of the Prophet. -The story of these ladies deserves mention. -On their arrival at the holy city, they averred -that the General had dishonoured them in the -fever of victory, and the mandate for his death -was forthwith despatched by the Caliph. The -innocent Moslem, sewed up in a raw hide, was -transported from the East to Arabia; and when -his bones were produced in the seraglio, the -daughters of Duhr bin Chuch freely confessed -the falsehood of their accusation, and expressed -their readiness to die, having avenged their -father’s murder. They were dragged to death -in the streets of Bagdad.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Alore the -kingdom of -Musicanus.</div> - -<p>We have recorded the splendour of Alore, -ruled by Brahmins so late as the seventh century<span class="pagenum" id="Page_79">[79]</span> -of our era; and history, I think, - - -<span class="sidenote">Larkhanu, -of Oxycanus. -Minagur -as -Tatta, not -Bukkur.</span> -identifies it with -the kingdom of Musicanus, which Alexander -found to be governed by Brahmins, and the -richest and most populous in India. Here it -was that that conqueror built a fort, as “the -place was commodiously situated for bridling -the neighbouring nations,” and where Mahommed -bin Cassim a thousand years afterwards -subdued the Brahmins who revolted from the -Macedonians. Its prosperity at this late period -confirms the probability of its former wealth. -Bukkur is the ancient Munsoora<a id="FNanchor_9" href="#Footnote_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a>, and has likewise -been supposed to be Minagur, which I -believe is erroneous. The second Arrian, in -his Periplus, speaks of that city as the metropolis -of Sinde, to which the cargo of the ships -was carried up by the river “from Barbarike, a -port in the middle branch of the Indus.” It -has apparently escaped notice, that Minagur is -to be identified with Tatta, as proved by a singular -but convincing fact. The Jhareja Rajpoots -of Cutch, who trace their lineage from -Tatta, invariably designate it in these days by -the name of Sa-Minagur, of which Minagur is -evidently an abbreviation. I look upon the -identity of Tatta and Minagur as conclusive, -though the author of the Periplus never mentions -Pattala. In Reechel we may also have<span class="pagenum" id="Page_80">[80]</span> -the harbour of Barbarike. The historians of -Alexander do not inform us of the name of the -country of Musicanus, but only of its ruler. -The position of Larkhanu, on the opposite side -of the Indus, is well marked as the country of -Oxycanus, which was famed for its fertility, since -Alexander despatched from hence his superannuated -soldiers, by the country of the Archoti -and Drangi, to Carmania, or Kerman. The great -road westward branches from Larkhanu, and -crosses the mountains to Kelat by the pass of -Bolan, which is the route to Kerman. The -modern inhabitants of the Indus have no traditions -of the conquest of the Macedonians to -assist the enquirer in a subject that excites among -civilised nations such intense curiosity.</p> - - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_81">[81]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAP_IV">CHAP. IV.<br /> - -<span class="smaller"> -THE COUNTRY OF BHAWUL KHAN.</span></h2> - -</div> - - -<div class="sidenote">Quit Bukkur.</div> - -<p>On the 21st of May we set sail from Bukkur, -having exchanged our boats for another description -of vessel, called “zohruk,” not in use in -Lower Sinde. They are of an oblong square -shape, rounded fore and aft, and built of the -<i>talee</i> tree, clamped with pieces of iron instead -of nails, an operation which is performed -with great neatness. Some of the vessels exceed -eighty feet in length, and twenty in breadth. -They are flat-bottomed, and pass quicker through -the water than the <i>doondee</i>, though they have -but one mast. By the description of boats -in which Alexander transported his cavalry, I -understand the “zohruk,” which is well suited -for the transport of troops. Arrian describes it -“as of a round form,” and says that they received -no injury on leaving the Hydaspes, when -the long vessels were wrecked. Their peculiar -build has doubtless arisen from the occurrence -of such rapids as the Macedonians experienced -at the junction of the Acesines and Hydaspes.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Curiosity -of the -people.</div> - -<p>The curiosity of the people on the banks of -the Indus was intense. One man in the crowd<span class="pagenum" id="Page_82">[82]</span> -demanded that we should stop and show ourselves, -since there had never been a <i>white-face</i> -in this country before, and we were bound -to exhibit, from the welcome which we had -received: he had seen Shah Shooja, he said (the -ex-king of Cabool), but never an Englishman. -Need I say we gratified him and the crowd, of -which he was the spokesman? “Bismilla,” “in -the name of God,” was their usual exclamation -when we appeared, and we daily heard ourselves -styled kings and princes. The ladies -were more curious than their husbands. They -wear ear-rings of large dimensions, with turquoises -suspended or fixed to them; for these -stones are of little value in the vicinity of Khorasan. -Among the women, I should note the -Syudanees, or Bebees, the female descendants of -Mahommed: they go about veiled, or rather with -a long white robe thrown over their entire body, -having netted orifices before the eyes and mouth. -They are all beggars, and very vociferous in -their demands for alms: one set of them, (for -they go about in troops,) when they found I did -not readily meet their demands, produced a -written paper from the shrine of Lal Shah Baz, -at Sehwun, to hasten my charity! Father Manrique, -in his journey by the Indus some centuries -ago, complains “of the frail fair ones” -who molested him by the way. In the present<span class="pagenum" id="Page_83">[83]</span> -age, the dress of the courtezans, who are to be -met in every place of size in the country, would -give a favourable idea of the wealth of Sinde; -and it is one of the few, if not the only, amusements -of the inhabitants to listen to the lascivious -songs of these people. They are a remarkably -handsome race, and carry along with them a -spirit of enthusiasm in their performance unknown -to the ladies of Hindoostan.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Beloochees -of Sinde.</div> - -<p>Three days after quitting Bukkur, we came -in sight of the mountains of Cutch Gundava, -distant about a hundred miles from the right -bank of the Indus; the most remarkable peak -was named Gendaree. We here entered a -country inhabited by various Beloochee tribes, long -addicted to piracy and plunder; but their spirit -has been destroyed by the growing power of the -Khyrpoor chiefs. They offered no opposition -or insult; and many came to pay us a friendly -visit. Their manner of saluting each other, -which indeed prevails among all the Beloochees, -is somewhat peculiar. On approaching, they -seize the stranger’s hand, and touch the right -breast with the right shoulder, and the left with -the left, and follow up the words “welcome” -with half a dozen such sentences as, “Are -you happy? Is every thing right? Are all -well, great and small, children and horses? -You are welcome.”</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_84">[84]</span></p> - -<div class="sidenote">Sinde frontier, -farewell letters.</div> - -<p>A very few days brought us beyond the reach -of these Beloochees, and the dominions of Sinde; -for we anchored thirty miles north of Subzulcote, -the frontier town, on the evening of the 26th, -on the line of boundary between the Khan of -the Daoodpootras and the Ameers of Sinde. -Our progress had been exceedingly rapid; for -we had a favourable breeze, and often followed -the lesser branches of the Indus to escape the -violence of the stream. The boats sailed with -celerity; for we came one hundred and twenty -miles by the course of the river in six days -against the stream. We here had a farewell feast -from the Khyrpoor Ameer and Meer Nusseer -Khan, the son of the principal Ameer, who had -shown us marked civility throughout the journey. -After the people had fared sumptuously, our -boats were crowded like sheepfolds. I addressed -valedictory letters to both the Ameers and their -chief ministers, besides several replies to other -persons; for the “<i>cacoethes scribendi</i>” seemed to -have beset the nobles of the land; and I had received, -in one day, no less than six letters. These -productions were full of metaphor and over-strained -expressions of anxiety for our health -and safety, with trite sayings about the advantages -of friendship, and a letter being half an -interview. There is no difference between the -manners of Europe and Asia so striking as in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_85">[85]</span> -correspondence. The natives of the East commit -the writing and diction of their compositions -to a native secretary, simply telling him to write -a letter of friendship, congratulation, or whatever -may be the subject, to which he affixes his -seal, sometimes without a perusal. If the signet -is not legible, one may often try in vain to find -out his correspondent; for he never names himself -in his letter. In my epistles, I told the -Khyrpoor chief that his friendship and kindness -had brought us without an accident, and with -unprecedented speed, against the mighty stream -of the Indus; and I thought it as well, for the -edification of the Hydrabad Ameer, to add, that -<i>the Indus was a navigable river</i> from the ocean, -and had abundance of water every where! I did -not quit Sinde favourably impressed, either with -his character or policy; but we should not try -such a man by an European standard, and he -doubtless opposed our choice of the route by the -Indus on sufficiently good grounds. I parted -from our Khyrpoor friends really with reluctance; -for their hospitality and kindness had been great, -and it was with difficulty that I was permitted -to reward the boatmen. The Mihmandar said -that he had been ordered to prohibit it; and his -master only desired to please the British Government. -This person was very inferior to our -former companion the Syud; but, if less learned<span class="pagenum" id="Page_86">[86]</span> -and intelligent, he had the more sterling qualities -of sincerity and honesty: his name was Inayut -Khan Ghoree.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Sindian -escort.</div> - -<p>We here dismissed, and with regret, our -Sindian escort, which had followed us from the -mouths of the Indus. They seemed to have -become attached to us, and followed us in our -walks and rides with unusual alacrity; as we -were leaving, they accompanied us to the water’s -edge, with loud cries of thanks for our kindness -and prayers for our welfare. They consisted of -twenty-four men; twelve of whom were Beloochees -and the rest Jokeeas, a tribe of mountaineers -near Curachee. We had not, I am sure, -done much to deserve such gratitude; for they -had only received an additional month’s pay -(eight rupees each) to take them back to their -country, a distance of three hundred and fifty -miles. Some of them begged to accompany us -to Lahore; but, on the same principle that they -had been hired in Sinde, it would be proper to -enlist natives of the new country we were entering, -and I civilly declined their request. These -men used to kill game for us; and were ever -ready to anticipate our wishes. Their honesty -we found unimpeachable; and we never lost -any thing in our progress through a strange -country, protected by strangers on whom we had -no tie, and who had been brought from the fields -to enter our service.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_87">[87]</span></p> - -<div><div class="figcenter illowp71" id="zill_t086b" style="max-width: 59.375em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/zill_t086b.jpg" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"> -<div class="center large"><b><span class="smcap">NATIVES of SINDE.</span></b></div> - -<div class="center">Lith<sup>d</sup>. for Burnes’ Travels into Bokhara,__by Day & Haghe Lith<sup>rs</sup>. to the King.</div> - -<div class="center">John Murray Albemarle S<sup>t</sup>. 1834.</div> - -<div class="center"><i>On Stone by L. Haghe.</i> - -<i>Capt<sup>n</sup>. R. M. Grindlay del<sup>t</sup>.</i> -</div> -</div> -</div> -</div> - - -<div class="sidenote">Fish diet.</div> - -<p>The natives of the neighbouring countries, -and the higher class of people in Sinde, have a -singular notion regarding the fish diet of the -inhabitants. They believe it prostrates the -understanding; and, in palliation of ignorance -in any one, often plead that “he is but a fish-eater.” -The lower order of the Sindians live -entirely on fish and rice; and the prevailing -belief must be of an old date, as they tell an -anecdote of one of the Emperors of Delhi who -addressed a stranger in his court with the -question from whence he came; he replied, -from Tatta, and the king turned away his head. -The stranger, recollecting the prejudice against -his country, immediately rejoined, that he was -not a “fish-eater.” I am not prepared to state -how far a fish diet may affect the intellect of the -Sindian, but I certainly remarked the prolific -nature of the food in the number of children on -the banks of the Indus. - - -<span class="sidenote">Manners, -&c. Costume.</span> -The greatest fault -which an European would find with the people -of Sinde is their filthy habits. They always -wear dark-coloured garments from religious -motives; but the ablutions of the Prophet are -little attended to. People must be in easy -circumstances, I believe, or cease to feel want -before they adopt habits of cleanliness. The -change of costume in the people, announced -already a change of country. Since leaving<span class="pagenum" id="Page_88">[88]</span> -Bukkur, we had met many Afghans and natives -of the kingdom of Cabool. The boots of some -of these strangers, made of variegated leather, -ribbed, in some instances, not unlike the skin of -the tiger, formed an extraordinary dress for a -long-bearded old man.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Quit Sinde. -Bhawul -Khan’s -country.</div> - -<p>In the evening of the 27th we quitted Sinde, -and ascended the river for a few miles, where -we were met by Gholam Kadir Khan, a Nuwab -and person of high rank, who had been sent to -welcome us by Bhawul Khan, the chief of the -Daoodpootras, in whose country we had now -arrived. He was a little, pot-bellied old man, -with a happy expression of countenance; and -he said that he was sent to communicate the delight -with which his master hailed our approach. -He brought a most kind message—that a fleet -of fifteen boats had been collected, and was now -in readiness to convey us through the Daoodpootra -country, while the Khan had fitted up a -boat expressly for our accommodation. He -brought likewise a purse of a hundred rupees, -which he said he had been desired to send me -daily: this I declined, saying, that money was -useless where every necessary and luxury of -life was furnished by his master’s hospitality. -We soon got on easy terms with our new hosts, -and weighed anchor next evening for the frontier -village, where we halted. Many Daoodpootras<span class="pagenum" id="Page_89">[89]</span> -came to see us; they differ in appearance from -the Sindians, and wear turbans formed of tight -and round folds of cloths.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Quit the -Indus.</div> - -<p>On the 30th of May our fleet, now swelled to -eighteen boats, quitted the Indus at Mittuncote, -where it receives the united waters of the Punjab -rivers; and, as if to remind us of its magnitude, -the stream was here wider than in any other -part of its course, and exceeded 2000 yards. -We took a last farewell of its waters, and entered -the Chenab or Acesines of the Greeks. -Alexander sailed down this river to the Indus; -but no tradition of that event is preserved on -its banks. The Sindians point to Cabool as the -theatre of his exploits, where Sikunder the -Persian achieved many memorable deeds. In -the East, as in the West, there have not been -wanting ages of darkness to draw a mist over -truth, and substitute, in poetical language, the -fables of an Eastern country for one of the most -authentic facts in ancient history—the voyage -of Alexander on the Indus. Mittun is a small -town, about a mile distant from the Indus, and -occupies, I imagine, the site of one of the -Grecian cities, since the advantage of its position -for commerce attracted the attention of -Alexander.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Elevated -houses of -Sinde.</div> - -<p>In Lower Sinde the pastoral tribes live in -reed houses, and rove from one place to an<span class="pagenum" id="Page_90">[90]</span>other. -In these parts of the Indus they dwell -in habitations elevated eight or ten feet from -the ground, to avoid the damp and the insects -occasioned by it. These are also built of reeds, -and entered by a ladder. They are small neat -cottages, and occupied by wandering tribes, who -frequent the banks of the river till the season -of inundation. Herodotus mentions that the -Egyptians slept in turrets during the rise of the -Nile. - - -<span class="sidenote">Effects of -the Indus -on the -climate.</span> -The inhabitants have strange notions -regarding the influence of the Indus on the -climate. They believe that it gives out a perpetual -breeze; and they, therefore, seek a habitation -near it, for the heat of Sinde is most -oppressive. The father of history expressed -his belief that such also was the case with the -Nile; and it is curious that a similar opinion -should be entertained by the people of Sinde. -I can readily understand that a vast volume of -running water would cool the banks of a river: -the heat is said to increase on receding from the -Indus.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Chenab or -Acesines.</div> - -<p>We reached Ooch, where the joint streams -of the Sutlege and Beas, here called the Garra, -fall into the Chenab. The name of Punjnud, -or Five Rivers, is unknown to the natives; -and we now navigated the Chenab or Acesines -of the Greeks, the name of the five rivers -being lost in that of the greater stream. It<span class="pagenum" id="Page_91">[91]</span> -is curious to observe that this fact is expressly -mentioned by Arrian:—“The Acesines retains -its name till it falls at last into the Indus, -after it has received three other rivers.” The -Sutlege, or Hesudrus, is not mentioned by Alexander’s -historians. These united rivers form a -noble stream; and the banks of the Chenab are -free from the thick tamarisk jungles of the -Indus. They were studded with innumerable -hamlets, particularly towards the Indus; for the -rich pasture attracts the shepherd.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Incident.</div> - -<p>Our arrival at Ooch had been so much earlier -than was anticipated as to give rise to an incident -which might have proved serious. The -troops of Bhawul Khan were encamped on the -banks of the river, and in a dusky day our -numerous fleet was mistaken for the Seik army, -which had been threatening to invade his territories. -A discharge of a cannon and some musquetry -arrested the progress of our advanced -boat. The mistake was readily discovered, and -the chagrin and vexation that followed afforded -us some amusement. I thought that apologies -and regrets would never have ceased.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Ooch.</div> - -<p>The town of Ooch stands on a fertile plain at -a distance of four miles from the Acesines, beautifully -shaded by trees. It is formed of three -distinct towns, a few hundred yards apart from -each other, and each has been encompassed by<span class="pagenum" id="Page_92">[92]</span> -a wall of brick, now in ruins. The population -amounts to 20,000. The streets are narrow, and -covered with mats as a protection from the sun; -but it is a mean place. We were accommodated -in a garden well stocked with fruit trees and -flowers, which was an agreeable change from -our confined boats. - - -<span class="sidenote">Arrival of -Bhawul -Khan.</span> -When preparing for a -journey to visit the Khan,—who was absent at -Dirawul, in the desert,—we were surprised by -the arrival of a messenger, with the information -that he had reached Ooch from a distance of -sixty miles, that he might save us the trouble of -coming to him, and evince his respect for the -British Government. The messenger brought -us a deer, which the Khan had shot, and of -which he begged our acceptance, with forty vessels -of sherbet, and as many of sweetmeats and -preserves; also a bag containing 200 rupees, -which he requested I would distribute in charity, -to mark the joyful event of our arrival.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Interview -with him.</div> - -<p>On the morning of the 3d of June we visited -Bhawul Khan, who had alighted at a large -house outside the town, a mile distant: he sent -an escort of his regular troops, with horses, -palankeens, and various other conveyances,—one -of which deserves description. It was a -sort of chair, covered with a red canopy of -cloth, supported by two horses, one in front and -the other behind, and the most awkward vehicle<span class="pagenum" id="Page_93">[93]</span> -that can be imagined; for it could be turned -with difficulty, and the horses did not incline to -such a burden. We passed a line of soldiers, -about 600 in number, dressed in uniforms of -red, blue, white, and yellow; and then entered -the court yard, under a salute of eighty -guns. The passages were lined with officers -and chiefs; and we found the Khan seated in -an area spread with carpets, attended only by -about ten persons: he rose and embraced us. -He made particular enquiries regarding Mr. -Elphinstone, who, he said, had been the means -of raising up a sincere and lasting friendship -between his family and the British Government.</p> - -<p>Bhawul Khan is a handsome man, about -thirty years of age, somewhat grave in his demeanour, -though most affable and gentlemanlike; -during the interview he held a rosary in -his hand, but the telling of the beads did not interrupt -his conversation. He dilated at length -on the honour which Runjeet Sing had had conferred -upon him in receiving presents from the -King of Great Britain; nor did he, in any way, -betray his feelings towards the Lahore chief, -though they are far from friendly. The Khan, -unlike most natives, seemed to avoid all political -subjects. He produced his matchlock, and explained -to us his manner of hunting deer, his -favourite sport; and expressed a strong wish<span class="pagenum" id="Page_94">[94]</span> -that we should accompany him to his residence -in the desert. We left him quite charmed with -his kindness, and the sincere manner in which -he had shown it. In the evening the Khan -sent for our perusal the testimonials that had -been given to his grandfather by Mr. Elphinstone, -which are preserved with great pride and -care in the archives of his government. For my -own part, I felt equal satisfaction to find the -English character stand so high in this remote -corner of India, and the just appreciation of the -high-minded individual who had been the means -of fixing it.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Merchants -at Bhawulpoor.</div> - -<p>During our stay at Ooch, we were visited by -some of the principal merchants of Bhawulpoor, -who had followed the Khan. The intelligence -of these people, and extent of their travels, surprised -me. Most of them had traversed the -kingdom of Cabool, and visited Balkh and Bokhara: -some had been as far as Astracan; and -they used the names of these towns with a -familiarity as if they had been in India. They -had met Russian merchants at Bokhara, but -assured me that they never came to the eastward -of that city. The intervening countries they -represented as perfectly safe, and bestowed the -highest commendations on Dost Mahommed, of -Cabool, and the Uzbeks, who encouraged commercial -communication. These merchants are<span class="pagenum" id="Page_95">[95]</span> -chiefly Hindoos, whose disposition peculiarly -adapts them for the patient and painstaking -vocation of a foreign merchant. Some of them -are Jews, who retain the marks of their nation -in all countries and places.<a id="FNanchor_10" href="#Footnote_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a></p> - -<div class="sidenote">History of -Ooch.</div> - -<p>We continued at Ooch for a week. The place -is ancient, and highly celebrated in the surrounding -countries from the tombs of two saints of -Bokhara and Bagdad. The Ghorian emperors -expelled the Hindoo Rajas of Ooch, and consigned -the surrounding lands to pious Mahommedans. -The tombs of the two worthies I have -named are handsome, and held in much reverence -by the people; they are about five hundred -years old, and tradition is silent regarding the -history of the place beyond that period. The -posterity of these saints enjoy both spiritual and -temporal power to the present day; but, instead -of ministering to the wants of the inhabitants, -who are needy and poor, they waste their -fortunes in the chase, and retain hounds and -horses for their amusement. An inundation of -the Acesines, some years back, swept away one -half of the principal tomb, with a part of the -town; and, though the return of the river to its -original bed is attributed to the miraculous<span class="pagenum" id="Page_96">[96]</span> -interference of the deceased saint, the people -have, as yet, failed to testify their gratitude by -repairing his tomb. The town of Ooch stands -on a mound of earth or clay, like the city of -Tatta, which I judge to have been formed by -the ruins of houses. The Chenab has swept -away a portion of the mound; and the section -of it which has been thus exposed seems to -support the conjecture which I have stated.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Visit from -Bhawul -Khan.</div> - -<p>On the 5th of June we had a visit from -Bhawul Khan. He insisted on coming in person -to see us; and sent a large tent to be pitched -by our garden, in which we received him. He -sat for about an hour; and put numerous -questions regarding the manufactures of Europe. -The chief is of a mechanical turn of mind; he -produced a detonating gun, which had been -made under his directions from an European -pattern, and certainly did credit to the artificer; -he had also manufactured the necessary caps -and fulminating powder. He expressed, at -this interview, much satisfaction with the presents -which we had sent him; they consisted of -a brace of pistols, a watch, and some other -articles. The Khan came in an open sort of -chair, to which we conducted him on his departure. -He was attended by about a thousand -persons; and I observed that he distributed -money as he passed along. After the visit, our<span class="pagenum" id="Page_97">[97]</span> -Mihmandar brought us presents from the Khan; -they consisted of two horses richly caparisoned -with silver and enamel trappings, a hawk, with -shawls and trays of the fabrics made at Bhawulpoor, -some of which were very rich; to these -were added a purse of 2000 rupees, and a sum -of 200 for the servants; and, last of all, a beautiful -matchlock, which had its value doubled -by the manner in which it was presented. “The -Khan,” said the messenger, “has killed many -a deer with this gun; and he begs you will -accept it from him, and, when you use it, -remember that Bhawul Khan is your friend.”</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Audience -of leave.</div> - -<p>In the evening we had a parting interview -with Bhawul Khan. I gave him a handsome -percussion gun; and assured him, what I felt -most sincerely, that we should long remember -his kindness and hospitality. He embraced -us on our leaving him; and intreated us to -write to him and command his services. The -courtiers and people were as polite as their -chief.</p> - -<p>We left Ooch on the following morning, and -pitched our camp at the junction of the Chenab -with the Garra, or united streams of the Beas -and Sutlege.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Mountains -of Sooliman.</div> - -<p>The country about Ooch is flat and exceedingly -rich; there are many signs of inundation -between the town and the river. The dust was<span class="pagenum" id="Page_98">[98]</span> -most intolerable; but it always cleared up -towards evening, and we saw the sun set in -splendour behind the mountains of Sooliman -across the Indus, eighty miles distant. They -did not appear high, and were not distinguished -by any remarkable peaks. It is a -little below the latitude of Ooch that they -assume a direction parallel to the Indus, which -they afterwards preserve. We lost sight of the -range on our voyage to Mooltan the day after -leaving Ooch.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Embouchure -of the -Sutlege.</div> - -<p>On the morning of the 7th we passed the -mouth of the Sutlege, and continued our voyage -on the Chenab to the frontiers of Bhawul Khan, -which we reached on the evening of the 8th. -The Chenab receives the Sutlege without -turmoil, and appears quite as large above as -below the conflux. The waters of either river -are to be distinguished some miles below the -junction by their colour: that of the Chenab -is reddish; and, when joined by the Sutlege, -the waters of which are pale, the contrast is -remarkable. For some distance the one river -keeps the right, and the other the left, bank; -the line of demarcation between the two being -most decided. The nature of the soil through -which the Chenab flows, no doubt, tinges its -waters. This peculiarity is well known to the -natives, who speak of the “red water,” but<span class="pagenum" id="Page_99">[99]</span> -none of the ancient authors allude to the circumstance. -The nature of the country between -Ooch and the Indus has been mistaken, as it is -never flooded. Several decayed canals, if cleared, -would yet lead the water of the Chenab to the -Indus, and may account for Major Rennell’s -conducting that river into the great stream, so -many miles above the true point of union, until -the geographical error was rectified by the mission -to Cabool.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">The Mihmandar.</div> - -<p>We parted with our Mihmandar, Gholam -Cadir Khan, before passing into the Seik territory. -We had seen a great deal of him, and -found him well informed on all such subjects as -he could be supposed to know. He carried four -or five historical works with him, among which -was the Chuchnamu, or History of Sinde, to -which I have alluded, one or two books on -medicine, and some volumes of poetry: yet he -made a most particular request, at our last interview, -that I would tell him the secret of -magic, which he was certain we possessed. I -assured him of the error under which he laboured: -“But,” said he, “how is it that you -have had a favourable wind ever since I met -you, and performed a twenty days’ voyage in -five, when a breath of air does not sometimes -stir in this country for months?” I told him -that such was the good fortune of the English.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_100">[100]</span> -When the Nawaub found me wanting in the black -art, he whispered that he himself was a dealer -in spells and magic; but very sensibly added, -that he had no faith in his own incantations, -high as they stood in the opinion of others; -though it was not his part to say so. He begged -I would give him some medicine to prevent -him growing fatter; but neither regular exercise, -nor vinegar, which I prescribed, seemed to -suit his taste. What a whimsical creature man -is. In Sinde, every person of rank seeks for -rotundity to support his dignity; and but a few -miles from that country, the “martyr to obesity” -is considered unfortunate.</p> - -<p>There is little cordiality subsisting between -the Seiks and Bhawul Khan; and it was with -the utmost difficulty that I prevailed on the -Nawaub to let us proceed to the Seik camp, a -distance of six miles, in the boats belonging -to his master. “The Seiks,” he said, “are -my master’s enemies, and no boat of ours -shall cross their frontier.” He at last assented, -on my becoming answerable for the return of -the vessels.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Runjeet -Sing’s -country.</div> - -<p>A few hours’ sail brought us to the place of -rendezvous late at night, and the fires of the -soldiers blazing in the darkness only increased -our anxiety to meet our new friends. It was -the camp of the party which had been sent from<span class="pagenum" id="Page_101">[101]</span> -Lahore to await our arrival, and had long expected -us. Immediately on landing, we were -received by Sirdar Lenu Sing, who came with -considerable state on an elephant, and was attended -by a large retinue. The Sirdar was -richly dressed, and had a necklace of emeralds, -and armlets studded with diamonds. In one -hand he held a bow, and in the other two Persian -letters in silken bags. He congratulated us, in -the name of Maharajah Runjeet Sing, on our -arrival, and had been desired by his Highness to -communicate that he was deeply sensible of the -honour conferred upon him by the King of -England, and that his army had been for some -time in readiness on the frontier, to chastise the -barbarians of Sinde, who had so long arrested -our progress. He then delivered to me the -letters which appointed himself as our Mihmandar, -in conjunction with two other persons; presenting -at the same time a bow, according to -the custom of the Seiks. On the ceremony being -terminated, the Sirdar and several others placed -bags of money at my feet, amounting to about -1400 rupees, and then withdrew.</p> - -<p>The first intercourse with a new people can -never be destitute of interest, and the present -was far from being so.</p> - -<p>These Seiks are tall and bony men, with a very -martial carriage: the most peculiar part of their<span class="pagenum" id="Page_102">[102]</span> -dress is a small flat turban, which becomes them -well; they wear long hair, and from the knee -downwards do not cover the leg. When the -deputation had withdrawn, an escort of regular -troops attended to receive orders, and sentries -were planted round our camp. It was novel to -hear the words of command given in the French -language.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Exhibition -of the dray -horses.</div> - -<p>No sooner had the day broke, than the Maharajah’s -people evinced much anxiety to view -the dray horses, and we had them landed for -exhibition. Their surprize was extreme; for -they were little elephants, said they, and not -horses. Their manes and tails seemed to please, -from their resemblance to the hair of the cow of -Thibet; and their colour, a dappled grey, was -considered a great beauty. It was not without -difficulty that I replied to the numerous questions -regarding them; for they believed that the -presents of the King of England must be extraordinary -in every way; and for the first time, a -dray horse was expected to gallop, canter, and -perform all the evolutions of the most agile -animal. Their astonishment reached its height -when the feet of the horses were examined; and -a particular request was made of me to permit -the despatch of one of the shoes to Lahore, as it -was found to weigh 100 rupees, or as much as -the four shoes of a horse in this country. The<span class="pagenum" id="Page_103">[103]</span> -curiosity was forthwith despatched by express, -and accompanied by the most minute measurement -of each of the animals, for Runjeet Sing’s -special information. The manner in which this -rarity was prized, will be afterwards seen, when -it is gravely recorded, that the new moon turned -pale with envy on seeing it!</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Civilities.</div> - -<p>Our own comforts were not forgotten among -their wonder and admiration, for the attentions -of the people were of the most marked description. -Our Mihmandar said that he had the -strictest injunctions regarding our reception; -and he rigidly acted up to the spirit of the following -document, which will best show the distinguished -and kind manner we were treated in -the territories of Maharajah Runjeet Sing.</p> - - -<div class="sidenote">Purwanu -of Runjeet -Sing.</div> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Copy of the Maharajah’s “Purwanu,” or -Command to his Officers.</span></h3> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>“Be it known to Dewan Adjoodia Pursad, -Monsieur Chevalier Ventura, and the great -and wise Sirdar Lenu Sing, and Lalla Sawun -Mull, Soobadar of Mooltan, that when Mr. -Burnes reaches the frontier, you are immediately -to attend to all his wants, and previously -despatch 200 infantry and the lancers, -under Tajee Sing, to Julalpoor, that they -may be ready on his arrival as an honorary<span class="pagenum" id="Page_104">[104]</span> -escort; and you are at the same time to make -known your own arrival in the neighbourhood. -When Mr. Burnes approaches, you are immediately -to despatch an elephant, with a silver -houda, in charge of the Dewan, who is to -state that the animal has been sent for his -own express use, and then ask him to be -seated thereon, which will be gratifying, as -the friendship between the states is great.</p> - -<p>“When Mr. Burnes has mounted the elephant, -then shall the Sirdar Lenu Sing, and -Sawun Mull, seated on other elephants, approach, -and have an interview with that gentleman, -paying him every manner of respect and -attention in their power, and congratulating -him in a hundred ways on his safe arrival -from a long and distant journey, distributing -at the same time 225 rupees among the poor. -You are then to present a handsome bow, and -each of you eleven gold Venetians, and conduct -the gentleman to the halting-place, and -there set before him 1100 rupees, and fifty -jars of sweetmeats. You are then to supply -the following articles: grass, grain, bran, -milk, eggs, fowls, sheep (doombus), curds, -vegetables, fruit, roses, spices, water-vessels, -beds, and every other thing that may be necessary, -in quantities without bounds, and be -neglectful and dilatory in nothing. When<span class="pagenum" id="Page_105">[105]</span> -you visit, you are to parade the two companies -and the horse, and salute, and then -place guards according to Mr. Burnes’ pleasure.</p> - -<p>“When you reach Shoojuabad, you are to -fire a salute of eleven guns, and furnish every -thing as before directed, and present 1100 -rupees, with sweetmeats and fruits, and attend -to every wish that is expressed. If Mr. -Burnes desires to look at the fort of Shoojuabad, -you are to attend on him and show it, -and see there is no obstruction, and that no -one even raises his voice.</p> - -<p>“On reaching Mooltan, you are to conduct -Mr. Burnes with great respect, and pitch his -camp in whatever garden he shall select; the -Huzooree, the Begee, the Shush Muhl, or -the Khass wu Am, or any other. You are -then to present him with a purse of 2500 -rupees, and 100 jars of sweetmeats, and fire a -salute of eleven guns from the ramparts of -the fortress. When you have complimented -him on his arrival, you are to suggest for his -consideration, whether he would not like to -halt at Mooltan for five or six days after his -long journey, and act entirely as he desires; -if he wishes to view the fort, you three persons -are to attend him, and allow no one to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_106">[106]</span> -make a noise, and take most particular care -that the Nihungs, and such other wrong-headed -people, are kept at a distance.</p> - -<p>“In quitting Mooltan, you are to load 100 -camels with provisions for the supply of Mr. -Burnes to Lahore, and Soobadar Sawan Mull -is to attend him in person for the first stage, -and after taking leave, repair to the camp of -Monsieur Chevalier Ventura. Sirdar Lenu -Sing and Dewan Adjoodia Pursad, together -with Futih Sing Ramgurree, accompanied by -an escort of two companies and the lancers, -shall attend Mr. Burnes, and proceed by easy -stages to Lahore, despatching daily notice of -his approach. At Dehra, Syudwulla the Kardar -is to present 1100 rupees, with the usual -sweetmeats; and you are all directed to remember, -in every instance, and at all times, -the great friendship which subsists between -the two states.”</p> -</div> - -<p>There is at all times much display and hyperbole -in affairs of this description throughout the -East; but in the present instance it will be -observed, that the Maharajah not only evinced -his liberality in other matters, but in throwing -open to our inspection the strong holds of his -country, which can be duly appreciated by those -only who have experienced the extreme jealousy<span class="pagenum" id="Page_107">[107]</span> -of most Indian governments. The Seik Sirdars -in attendance on us were likewise most communicative; -and this is the more remarkable, as it -could not have escaped the Maharajah, that in -taking the unfrequented tract we had followed -on the Indus we were seeking for new information, -after the spirit of our country.</p> - - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_108">[108]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V.</h2> -</div> - - -<div class="sidenote">Voyage in -the Seik -country.</div> - -<p>By the 12th of June, our preparations for the -voyage were completed, and we again embarked -on the Chenab. The boats here were of a very -inferior description, still called “zohruq;” they -had no sails, and hoist a mat on a low mast -instead; their waists are scarcely a foot above -water, and those which they could collect for us, -were but the different ferry boats of the river. -There is no trade carried on by water in this -country, and there are in consequence no boats. -A sail of a few hours brought us to the ferry -opposite Shoojuabad, where we halted. The -country is of the richest and most fertile description, -and its agricultural resources are much -increased, by conducting water to the remoter -parts, in large canals and aqueducts.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Shoojuabad.</div> - -<p>In the evening of the 13th we visited the -town of Shoojuabad, which stands four miles -eastward of the river. It is a thriving place, -surrounded by a fine wall of brick, about thirty -feet high. The figure of the place is that of an -oblong square, and the wall is strengthened by -octagonal towers, at equal distances. The in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_109">[109]</span>terior -is filled up with houses, which are built in -streets, at right angles to one another; and a -suburb of huts surrounds the walls. Shoojuabad -fort was built by the Nuwab of Mooltan in the -year 1808, and the public spirit of that person -raised it, in the course of ten years, to great -opulence. It is situated in a most beautiful -country, and is watered by two spacious canals -for many miles, both above and below the town. -It was captured by the Seiks, along with Mooltan, -and now forms the frontier fortress of the -Lahore chief. We were accompanied to Shoojuabad -by our Mihmandar, who appeared in -state for the occasion; he sat on an elephant in -a chair of silver,—two horses were led before -him, with saddles of red and yellow velvet,—his -bow and quiver were borne by one menial, -and his sword by another; while he himself was -decorated with precious jewels. At the palace -of the town, we were met by many of the respectable -inhabitants, before whom the “zyafut,” -or money gift, and sweetmeats of the Maharajah, -were presented to us. We afterwards -were conducted through the principal street, -and welcomed in a gratifying manner, wherever -we went. On quitting the fortress the garrison -fired a salute.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Mooltan.</div> - -<p>On the 15th we came in sight of the domes -of Mooltan, which look well at a distance; and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_110">[110]</span> -alighted in the evening at the Hoozooree Bagh, -a spacious garden enclosed by a thin wall of -mud, a mile distant from the city. The ground -is laid out in the usual native style; two spacious -walks crossed each other at right angles, and -are shaded by large fruit trees, of the richest -foliage. In a bungalow, at the end of one of -these walks, we took up our quarters, and were -received by the authorities of the city in the -same hospitable manner as at Shoojuabad. They -brought a purse of 2500 rupees, with 100 -vessels of sweetmeats, and an abundant supply -of fruit: we felt happy and gratified at the -change of scene, and civilities of the people.</p> - -<p>The city of Mooltan, is described in Mr. -Elphinstone’s work on Cabool, and it may appear -foreign to my purpose to mention it; but his -mission was received here with great jealousy, -and not permitted to view the interior of the -town, or the fort. I do not hesitate, therefore, -to add the following particulars, drawn up after -a week’s residence. The city of Mooltan is -upwards of three miles in circumference, surrounded -by a dilapidated wall, and overlooked -on the north by a fortress of strength. It -contains a population of about 60,000 souls, one -third of whom may be Hindoos; the rest of the -population is Mahommedan, for though it is -subject to the Seiks, their number is confined to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_111">[111]</span> -the garrison, which does not exceed 500 men. -The Afghans have left the country, since they -ceased to govern. Many of the houses evidently -stand on the ruins of others: they are built of -burnt brick, and have flat roofs: they sometimes -rise to the height of six stories, and their loftiness -gives a gloomy appearance to the narrow streets. -The inhabitants are chiefly weavers and dyers -of cloth. The silk manufacture of Mooltan is -called “kais,” and may be had of all colours, -and from the value of 20 to 120 rupees: it is -less delicate in texture than the “loongees” of -Bhawulpoor. Runjeet Sing has with much propriety -encouraged their manufacture, since he -captured the city; and by giving no other cloths -at his court, has greatly increased their consumption, -and they are worn as sashes and scarfs -by all the Seik Sirdars. They are also exported -to Khorasan and India, and the duties levied -are moderate. To the latter country, the route -by Jaysulmeer and Beecaneer is chosen in preference -to that by Sinde, from the trade being -on a more equitable footing. The trade of -Mooltan is much the same as at Bhawulpoor, -but is on a larger scale, for it has forty Shroffs, -(money changers) chiefly natives of Shikarpoor. -The tombs of Mooltan are celebrated: one of -them, that of Bawulhuq, who flourished upwards -of 500 years ago, and was a contemporary of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_112">[112]</span> -Sadee the Persian poet, is considered very holy; -but its architecture is surpassed by that of his -grandson, Rookn-i-Allum, who reposes under -a massy dome sixty feet in height, which was -erected in the year 1323, by the Emperor Tooghluck, -as his own tomb. Its foundation stands on -higher ground than the summit of the fort wall; -there is also a Hindoo temple of high antiquity, -called Pyladpooree; mentioned by Thevenot in -1665.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Fort of -Mooltan.</div> - -<p>The fortress of Mooltan merits a more particular -description; it stands on a mound of -earth, and is an irregular figure of six sides, the -longest of which (towards the north-west) extends -for about 400 yards. The wall has upwards -of thirty towers, and is substantially built -of burnt brick, to the height of forty feet outside; -but in the interior, the space between the ground -and its summit does not exceed four or five feet, -and the foundations of some of the buildings -overtop the wall, and are to be seen from the -plain below. The interior is filled with houses, and -till its capture by the Seiks in 1818, was peopled, -but the inhabitants are not now permitted to -enter, and a few mosques and cupolas, more -substantially built than the other houses, alone -remain among the ruins. The fortress of Mooltan -has no ditch; the nature of the country will not -admit of one being constructed; and Runjeet<span class="pagenum" id="Page_113">[113]</span> -Sing has hitherto expended great sums without -effect. The inundation of the Chenab, and its -canals, together with rain, render the vicinity -of Mooltan a marsh, even in the hot weather, -and before the swell of the river has properly set -in, the waters of last year remain. The walls -of the fortress are protected in two places by -dams of earth; the modern fort of Mooltan was -built on the site of the old city, by Moorad -Bukhsh, the son of Shah Jehan, about the year -1640, and it subsequently formed the Jagheer of -that prince’s brothers, the unfortunate Daro -Shikoh, and the renowned Aurungzebe. The -Afghans seized it in the time of Ahmed Shah, -and the Seiks wrested it from the Afghans, after -many struggles, in 1818. The conduct of its -governor during the siege, deserves mention; -when called on to surrender the keys, and -offered considerate treatment, he sent for reply, -that they would be found in his heart, but he -would never yield to an infidel; he perished -bravely in the breach. His name, Moozuffur -Khan, is now revered as a saint, and his tomb is -placed in one of the holiest sanctuaries of -Mooltan. The Seiks threw down the walls of -the fort in many places, but they have since -been thoroughly renewed or repaired; they are -about six feet thick, and could be easily breached -from the mounds that have been left in baking<span class="pagenum" id="Page_114">[114]</span> -the bricks, which are within cannon range of -the walls.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Antiquity -of Mooltan -supposed -Capital of -the Malli.</div> - -<p>Mooltan is one of the most ancient cities in -India. We read of its capture by Mahommed-bin-Cassim, -in the first century of the Hejira, -and its wealth afterwards attracted the Ghiznian, -Ghorian, and Moghul emperors of Hindoostan. -But we have little reason to doubt its being the -capital of the Malli of Alexander: Major Rennell -has supposed that metropolis to have been higher -up, and nearer the banks of the Ravee, because -Arrian states, that the inhabitants fled across -that river. This is high authority, but Mooltan -is styled “Malli than,” or “Malitharun” the place -of the Malli, to this day, and we have no ruins -near Tolumba, the site pointed at by Rennell to -fix on as the supposed capital. It is expressly -stated that Alexander crossed the Ravee, and -after capturing two towns, led his forces to the -capital city of the Malli. As the distance from -the river is but thirty miles, and Mooltan is considered -a place of high antiquity, I do not see -why we should forsake the modern capital when -in search of the ancient: had we not the earliest -assurances of the age of Mooltan, its appearance -would alone indicate it. The houses are piled -upon ruins, and the town stands on a mound of -clay, the materials of former habitations which -have gradually crumbled, an infallible proof of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_115">[115]</span> -antiquity, as I have remarked of Tatta and Ooch. -The late Nawab of Mooltan, in sinking a well -in the city, found a war drum, at a depth of -sixty feet from the surface; and several other -articles have been from time to time collected, -but no coins have been hitherto seen. Mooltan -may, in some degree, be considered to answer -the description of the Brahmin city and its -castle, which Alexander captured, before attacking -the capital of the Malli; but in that case, we -should have no site to fix on as the capital. The -manufactures of Mooltan and Bhawulpoor, the -“kais” and “loungee,” seem to assist in fixing -the country of the Malli, for Quintus Curtius -informs us that the ambassadors of the Malli -and Oxydracæ (Mooltan and Ooch) “wore -garments of cotton, lawn or muslin (lineæ -vestes), interwoven with gold, and adorned with -purple,” and we may safely translate “lineæ -vestes,” into the stuffs of Mooltan and Bhawulpoor, -which are interwoven with gold, and -most frequently of a purple colour.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Buildings -of Mooltan. -Superstitions.</div> - -<p>During our stay at Mooltan, we were freely -conducted to view the lions of this decayed -Viceroyalty of the Mogul empire. In the interior -of the fort there is the Hindoo temple, -before alluded to, which its votaries believe to -be of boundless antiquity, and with it couple<span class="pagenum" id="Page_116">[116]</span> -the following tradition. One Hurnakus, a giant, -despised God, and worshipped himself; he desired -his son Pylad to follow his steps, and was -about to murder him for his contumacy, when -the youth was miraculously saved by an incarnation -of the Deity, who appeared in a shape of -half lion and man. Hurnakus had given out -that his death could never be effected in earth -or air, in fire or water, by sword or bow, by night -or day; and it happened without an infringement -of these conditions, for Nursingavater -(the name of the incarnation) seized him at -dusk, and placing him on his knee, tore Hurnakus -to pieces, and took his son under protection. -This Hindoo temple, which goes by -the name of Pyladpooree, is a low building, supported -by wooden pillars, with the idols Hooneeman -and Guneesa as guardians to its portal. -It is the only place of Hindoo worship in Mooltan; -we were denied entrance to it.</p> - -<p>There is a shrine of some celebrity, near the -walls of Mooltan, where rest the remains of -Shumsi-Tabreezee, a saint from Bagdad, who is -believed to have performed many miracles, and -even raised the dead. This worthy, as the story -is told, was flayed alive for his pretensions. He -had long begged his bread in the city, and in -his hunger caught a fish, which he held up to the -sun, and brought that luminary near enough to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_117">[117]</span> -roast it; this established his memory and equivocal -fame on a firmer basis. The natives to -this day attribute the heat of Mooltan, which is -proverbial, to this incident.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Reflections.</div> - -<p>In the ready belief which the inhabitants of -Mooltan grant to such absurdities, we see little -to exalt them in the scale of reasonable beings; -but it seems inherent in the people to propagate -and uphold such delusions, for there are tales -equally improbable regarding every tomb in the -city. Rookn-i-alum, the son of Bhawul Huq, -removed to his present sepulchre when dead.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Religion of -the Seiks.</div> - -<p>At Mooltan we first saw the practice of -religion amongst the Seiks. In a veranda of -the tomb of Shumsi-Tabreezee, a “Gooroo,” -or priest of that persuasion, had taken up his -abode since the conquest of the city. We -found him seated on the ground, with a huge -volume in front of him; and a place covered -with cloth, like an altar, at one end of the apartment: -he opened the book at my request, and -repeating the words “wa gooroojee ka futteh,”<a id="FNanchor_11" href="#Footnote_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a> -touched the volume with his forehead, and all -the Seiks in attendance immediately bowed to -the ground: he then read and explained the -first passage that he turned up, which was as fol<span class="pagenum" id="Page_118">[118]</span>lows—“All -of you have sinned; endeavour -therefore to purify yourselves: if you neglect -the caution, evil will at last overtake you.” I -need hardly mention that the volume was the -“Grinth,” or holy book of the Seiks: their reverence -for it amounts to veneration, and the -priest waves a “<i>choury</i>,” or a Tibet cow’s tail, -over it, as if he were fanning an emperor. The -Gooroo was free from pomp and pride, and gave -a willing explanation to our enquiries: he opened -his holy book to acknowledge the gift of a few -rupees, that I made in due form, and requested -my acceptance of some confections in return.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Intolerance.</div> - -<p>The presence of a Seik priest, and the paraphernalia -of his order, under the roof of a -Mahommedan tomb, will furnish a good commentary -on the state of that religion in this -country; it is barely tolerated. In this city, -which held for upwards of 800 years, so high -a Mahommedan supremacy, there is now no -public “<i>numaz</i>;” the true believer dare not lift -his voice in public. The “<i>Eeds</i>” and the -Mohurum pass without the usual observances; -the “<i>Ullaho Acbar</i>” of the priest is never -heard; the mosques are yet frequented, but the -pious are reduced to offering up their orisons in -silence. Such has been the state of things since -Mooltan fell, in 1818, and yet the number of -Seiks is confined to that of the garrison, from<span class="pagenum" id="Page_119">[119]</span> -four to five hundred men. The Mahommedans, -who amount to about 40,000 souls, suffer no -other inconvenience from their new masters, -who afford every protection to their trade. The -Seiks excuse themselves, by alleging, that they -have not inflicted, in retribution, one fourth of -their own sufferings at the hands of the Mahommedans. -They are, I believe, correct in the -averment, but religious persecution, is always -revolting, and exercises a baneful influence in -every age and country.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Climate.</div> - -<p>The climate of Mooltan differs from that of -the countries lower down the Indus; showers -of rain are common at all seasons, and yet the -dust is intolerable. For nine successive evenings, -we had a tornado of it from the westward, with -lightning, and distant thunder. Such storms are -said to be frequent; they appear to set in from -the Sooliman mountains, between which and the -Indus the sand or dust is raised. The heat and -dust of Mooltan have grown into a proverb, to -which have been added, not unmeritedly, the -prevalence of beggars, and the number of the -tombs, in the following Persian <span class="lock">couplet:—</span></p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“Chuhar cheez hust, toohfujat-i-Mooltan.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Gird, guda, gurma wu goristan.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>As far as I could judge, the satire is just: the -dust darkened the sun: the thermometer rose in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_120">[120]</span> -June to 100° of Fahrenheit, in a bungalow artificially -cooled: the beggars hunted us every where; -and we trod on the cemeteries of the dead, in -whatever direction we rode.</p> - -<p>The country around Mooltan is highly cultivated; -the Acesines sends the water of its -inundation to the very walls of the city, and -there is a large canal, that extends it, at other -seasons, through Mooltan itself. The plain that -intervenes between the river and city has the -appearance of a rich meadow, and is overgrown -with date trees, which form here a productive -source of revenue. It is a popular belief in the -country, that this tree was introduced from -Arabia by the army of Mahommed-bin-Cassim, -who brought the fruit as a provision for his army. -It is a curious fact that they are principally -found in the track of that invader, who marched -from Alore to Mooltan. If the tradition be -true, the destroying Moslem compensated in -some degree for the evils and scourge of his -inroad. There are many ruined hamlets around -Mooltan, the remains of Jagheers, held by the -Afghans, but though these are deserted their -inhabitants have only changed their residence, -and occupy houses in the city.</p> - -<p>We removed our camp on the 20th to the -banks of the Acesines, which is four miles -distant. The river is about 650 yards wide,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_121">[121]</span> -but at the ferry itself, it is expanded to 1000 -at this season. We here found ten boats, -laden with mineral salt, from Pind Dadun -Khan; they exceeded eighty feet in length. -These boats drop down to Mooltan in twelve -days, from the mines, when fully laden.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Quit Mooltan.</div> - -<p>We embarked on the 21st of June, on a boat -which the Maharajah had fitted up for our reception -with two wooden bungalows; and, -along with the rest of our fleet, prosecuted our -voyage. We did not again exchange our boats, -in the way to Lahore. - - -<span class="sidenote">Desert.</span> -On quitting the ferry at -Mooltan, we came in sight of the desert that lies -between the Chenab and the Indus. It does -not commence so low as Ooch, as has been represented -in our maps, but near the latitude of -Mooltan, and runs parallel with the river, at -a distance of about two miles, leaving a stripe of -cultivated land. The sand-hills resemble those -of the sea shore, and have a scanty covering of -bushes, I cannot call it verdure: they do not -exceed twenty feet in elevation, but from refraction -often appeared much higher. There is a -great contrast between the sterile tract, and the -champaign plains of the eastern bank, which we -found every where irrigated. The villages lie at -a distance of about two miles from the river, and -have their fields fertilised from canals, by the -Persian wheel. On the banks of the Indus,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_122">[122]</span> -wells are common, but on the Chenab they are -only to be seen on the verge of canals that -branch from it.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Peeloo.</div> - -<p>There is a shrub called “peeloo<a id="FNanchor_12" href="#Footnote_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a>,” which is -to be found in this neighbourhood, and in all -tracts of saline soil that border on the Indus -and Punjab Rivers. It produces a red and white -berry, which has but a poor flavour; the taste of -its seeds resembles watercresses: this is the season -of the fruit, and it was exposed for sale in the -bazars of Mooltan. I observed this shrub in -greatest abundance in the delta, and lower parts -of Sinde; and, as I am satisfied that it is only -to be found in the particular soil described, -I believe we recognise it in Arrian’s Indian -History. “The leaves resemble those of the -laurel; they grow <i>chiefly</i> in places where the -tide flows among them, and where they are -again left dry at low water. Their flower is -white, and in shape like a violet, but much excelling -it in sweetness.”</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Seik government.</div> - -<p>The arrangements made for our progress -through the Seik territories were very complete. -We sailed from sunrise to sunset; and found -thirty or forty villagers alongside by day-break -to drag each boat. The fatigue and exertion -which these people underwent in a hot sun was<span class="pagenum" id="Page_123">[123]</span> -excessive. When they passed a field of melons, -but few were left to the owner; and many an -old lady scolded loudly as they invaded her -property. The people of this country are treated -with little consideration by the government; -they are not oppressed, yet considered its servants -since the conquest. But for our interference, -these villagers, who had waded through the -water and quicksands, would have been dismissed -empty-handed at night. The bounty of -the Maharajah enabled us daily to entertain -sumptuously, with flour and ghee, 300 hungry -villagers; and the Mihmandar further assured -me that due remission would be made for the -destruction of the fields in our progress. While -we ourselves advanced by water, the elephants, -camels, and escort seconded our motions on -shore; and we always found them drawn up -in parade array on the ground fixed for our -night’s encampment; we always slept on shore. -Before dusk we rode out on elephants to the -neighbouring villages, and conversed with the -people. They are lamentably ignorant; and -consisted chiefly of Juts, a tribe of Mahommedans -engaged in agriculture. They are not allowed -to pray aloud; but they stimulated each other -when pressed in our service by loud shouts and -invocations to Bhawul Huq, the revered saint -of Mooltan.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_124">[124]</span></p> - -<div class="sidenote">Alexander.</div> - -<p>As the sun set on the 23d, we moored below -the village of Fazil Shah, in the mouth of the -Ravee or Hydraotes, still called Iräotee by the -natives. This was the spot where Alexander of -Macedon met his anxious army after his severe -wound, and showed to his troops that his precious -life was yet preserved: but these are events which -live only in the historical works of Europe; they -are unknown to the natives of Asia. I must -mention, however, a circumstance corroborative -of the Greek historians,—the fields of beans -that I observed on the banks of this river. They -led Alexander, for some time, to mistake the -heads of the Indus for the Nile; and now -remain, in a distant age, as proofs of his journey, -and accuracy in the historians of his expedition.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Gifts from -Lahore.</div> - -<p>The intelligence of our arrival in the country -of the Seiks soon reached Lahore; and a pair -of gold armlets, set with diamonds and emeralds, -arrived in due course as a gift from the Maharajah -to our Mihmandar. The Lahore chief is -munificent in his distribution of presents among -his nobles, though less so than in former years. -Grants of land, and gifts of jewels and money, -are yet made. They attest the wealth of the -country, and the sound policy of the prince.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Enter the -Ravee.</div> - -<p>On the 24th we quitted the Acesines, and -entered on the navigation of the Ravee. At the -point of union, the former river has a breadth of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_125">[125]</span> -three quarters of a mile, though the deep part -does not extend for 500 yards.</p> - -<p>Lieut. Macartney makes mention of a report -which he had heard of the Chenab being fordable -in the cold season below this point; but the -natives assured me, that such an occurrence had -never happened in the memory of man, and I -found the soundings to exceed twelve feet. The -Chenab, indeed, is only inferior to the Indus; -its current is more rapid than that river, and, -with its depressed banks, it yet preserves every -where a depth of two fathoms. The Ravee -throws itself into the Chenab by three mouths, -close to each other. This river is very small, -and resembles a canal, rarely exceeding 150 yards -in breadth in any part of its course. Its banks -are precipitous, so that it deepens before it expands. -Nothing can exceed the crookedness -of its course, which is a great impediment to -navigation, for we often found ourselves, after -half a day’s sail, within two miles of the spot -from which we started. The water of the Ravee -is redder than that of the Chenab. It is fordable -in most places for eight months of the year. Its -banks are overgrown with reeds and tamarisk, -and for half the distance, from its estuary to the -capital, there is no cultivation. There are no -canals or cuts from this river below Lahore. -There is a very extensive one above that city,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_126">[126]</span> -which I shall have occasion to mention hereafter.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Tolumba.</div> - -<p>On the 27th of June we reached the small -town of Tolumba, which is situated in a grove -of date trees, nearly three miles south of the -Ravee. Sheriffo Deen, the historian of Timour, -informs us that that conqueror crossed the -Ravee at Tolumba on his route to Delhi, so -that we now found ourselves on the track of -another invader.</p> - -<p>The Tartar is yet remembered by his offerings -at the shrines in this neighbourhood. Below -the town, the Ravee assumes a straight course -for twelve miles, and presents a vista of beautiful -scenery, as the banks are fringed with lofty -trees, that overhang the river. The natives -attribute this peculiarity in the Ravee to divine -influence. The clothes of a saint, when bathing, -were washed into the stream, and the eyes of -the holy man, when turned in search of them, -straightened the river!</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Visit to the -Hydaspes.</div> - -<p>The Hydaspes was now at hand, the spot -where it unites with the Acesines was only forty-five -miles distant: here the fleet of Alexander -encountered its disasters in the rapids, and the -hordes of Timour were terrified by the noise of -the waters. Much to the surprise of our Seik -friends, who could not comprehend the motives -of our curiosity, we set out on a galloping ex<span class="pagenum" id="Page_127">[127]</span>pedition -for the scene of these memorable events, -and found ourselves on the second evening on -the banks of the Hydaspes. Our anxiety to behold -the “fabulous Hydaspes” was heightened -by the belief, that this spot, so famous in its -ancient history, had never been visited by an -European since the days of the Greeks. The -river joins the Acesines with a murmuring noise, -but the velocity of the current is inconsiderable, -and vessels pass it without danger, except in -July and August. There are no eddies or rocks, -nor is the channel confined, but the ancient -character is supported by the noise of the confluence, -which is greater than that of any of the -other rivers.</p> - -<p>The boatmen at the ferry said, that, during -the swell of the river, they placed themselves -under the protection of a saint, whose tomb -stands at the fork of the two rivers. The superstitious -reliance bespeaks danger. We stood on -the verge of the river, talking with the people, -till the sun set in the desert westward of us; -our Seik companions in the mean time, bathing -in the stream; for, if deprived of the enjoyment -which we derived, they had a compensation -in the belief of performing ablutions -at a holy spot, the junction of one river with -another.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_128">[128]</span></p> - -<div class="sidenote">The Hydaspes.</div> - -<p>This river is named Behut or Bedusta, also Jelum, -by the people on its banks, and falls into the -Acesines or Chenab in the latitude of 31° 11´ 30´´, -forty-five miles north of the town of Tolumba, -on the Ravee. The banks of the Hydaspes -coincide but faintly with the description of Arrian: -they do not confine the river in a narrow -channel, nor are there rocks anywhere near to -mark the spot where the Greeks retired with -their dismantled fleet. The name of Hydaspes -is yet discoverable in the modern appellation of -Bedusta. The Hydaspes is less rapid, and altogether -a smaller stream than the Acesines, being -about 500 yards in breadth at the point of conflux; -when joined, these rivers roll on for a -short distance in a channel full a mile in breadth, -and about twelve feet deep.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Boats of -the Greeks.</div> - -<p>The timber of which the boats of the Punjab -are constructed is chiefly floated down by the -Hydaspes from the Indian Caucasus, which most -satisfactorily explains the selection of its banks -as the site of a naval arsenal by Alexander in -preference to the other rivers, by any of which -he might have reached the Indus without a -retrograde movement. There are but few boats -on this river: about fifty are used in the salt -trade at Pind Dadun Khan, some of which -carry 500 maunds of salt, and exceed 100 feet<span class="pagenum" id="Page_129">[129]</span> -in length, being built like the “Zohruq,” -rounded at both ends. They do not hoist a -sail, and often pass the conflux in safety. We -are informed that the war-ships of the Greeks -encountered the greatest difficulties in the navigation -of this river, and are naturally led to -attribute the calamities of some of them to the -build, since the provision boats, which are described -as of “a round form;” and, I presume, -like the “Zohruq,” escaped uninjured. That -Alexander built the greatest part of his own -fleet, is certain, for he commenced his voyage -on the Hydaspes with 800 vessels; and when -he first reached that stream he was entirely -destitute of them; so that he ordered the boats -by which he passed the Indus to be broken up -and brought by land across the Doab. We -hear likewise of triremes and biremes, that in no -way correspond with the present description of -boats on the Indus; from which it is probable -that the round boats which escaped uninjured -were country vessels.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Passage of -the Hydaspes.</div> - -<p>The Hydaspes and Acesines have been forded -in the cold season; but when joined they have -never been passed but by boats. Timour, in -his expedition to Delhi, threw a bridge across -the conflux at Trimo ferry. Runjeet Singh -swam the Hydaspes at Sahewal with a large<span class="pagenum" id="Page_130">[130]</span> -body of horse; but that enterprising chief has -crossed the Indus itself above Attok in the -same manner. The merchants from Khorasan -travel to India at all seasons, taking the route -by Dera Ismael Khan, Mankere, and the Sandy -Desert, crossing at Trimo, on the road to -Toolumba. The country between these last two -places differs from the right bank of the Hydaspes: -destitute of sand hills, it is almost as -barren and desert. A sheet of hard clay, with -clumps of tamarisk, <i>khair</i>, <i>lan</i>, <i>kejra</i>, and such -other shrubs as are to be found in the Thurr, or -Desert of India, extends from the Chenab to -the Ravee. There is not a blade of grass but -on the banks of the rivers. Water is procurable -from wells about thirty feet deep, but is scarce, -and always fetid and noxious, though rarely -salt.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Cathæi of -Arrian.</div> - -<p>The population chiefly consists of the pastoral -tribe of Kattia, or Jun, who are so called from -their living an erratic life, “Jun” having that -signification: few of them are found at any -distance from the rivers but in the rainy season. -They have immense herds of buffaloes and -camels, from the milk of which they derive -sustenance; hardly cultivating the soil, though -some tolerable fields of tobacco, raised by irrigation, -may be seen near their habitations. -They are a tall and handsome race; which may<span class="pagenum" id="Page_131">[131]</span> -be attributed to a rule among them, prohibiting -marriages before their females attain the age -of twenty years: they believe that the children -of an early union, so common among every -other Indian tribe, are puny and unhealthy. -These Kattia are a predatory and warlike race: -few of them are free from scars and wounds. -They extend from the banks of the Hydaspes -across the deserts to Delhi, and are the aborigines -of this country, in whom, I think, we -recognise the Cathæi of Arrian; as he calls -them “a stout people, well skilled in military -affairs.” I am aware that these people have -been supposed to be the Kuttrees or Rajpoots; -but their country is further to the south, and -did not occupy this part of India on the Greek -invasion.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Ruins of -Shorkote.</div> - -<p>In the space which intervenes between the -Hydaspes and Ravee, and about equidistant -from either river, stand the ruins of Shorkote, -near a small town of that name. They occupy -a considerable space, being much larger than -Sehwun, and of the same description; viz., a -mound of earth, surrounded by a brick wall, -and so high as to be seen for a circuit of six or -eight miles. The traditions of the people state -that a Hindoo Rajah of the name of Shor ruled -in this city, and was attacked by a king from -“Wulayut,” or the countries westward, about<span class="pagenum" id="Page_132">[132]</span> -1300 years ago, and overcome through supernatural -means. Shorkote is mentioned by -Timour’s historian; and its locality leads me to -fix on it as the place where Alexander received -his wound, for he crossed to the west bank of -the Hydraotes in pursuit of the Malli, who had -retired to “a fortified city not far off,” the -walls of which were of brick. The story of -the King of the West is, to say the least of it, -a very probable tradition of Alexander of Macedon. -The construction of the place throws -some light on the fortresses which were captured -by Alexander. Ancient cities on the Indus -appear to have been mounds of earth surrounded -by brick walls. At Shorcote I had -the good fortune to procure a variety of coins, -which I long believed to be Hindoo; but my -surmise regarding the antiquity of the spot -received a strong and satisfactory confirmation -through the intelligence of the able secretary -to the Asiatic Society of Bengal,—Mr. James -Prinsep. That gentlemen discovered it to be a -Bactrian coin, resembling that of an Appolodotus, -and shaped like a Menander,—two coins of the -Bactrian monarchs, found by Colonel J. Tod, -and engraved in the transactions of the Royal -Asiatic Society. The Greek word Bazileos -may be read; and I had, therefore, to congratulate -myself on having, in my journey to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_133">[133]</span> -the Hydaspes, found the first Grecian relic in -the Punjab.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Return to -the Ravee.</div> - -<p>We retraced our steps from this famous river, -and saw much of the Kattia, or Jun tribe. They -were greatly surprised by our visit, and approached -in crowds to see us. They live in -scattered villages, and move their houses from -place to place. Both men and women were tall -and stout, with sun-burnt complexions. The -men allow their hair to grow in loose tresses -over their shoulders: the women have ear-rings -of an enormous size; but the stout and sturdy -dames appeared not the least incumbered from -their weight.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Birds and -reptiles of -the Ravee.</div> - -<p>We returned to Toolumba on the 1st of July, -jaded from the excessive heat, but highly gratified -with our journey. We immediately embarked, -and prosecuted our voyage. During our absence -the river had risen two feet, from a fall of -rain in the mountains; but it did not appear -much wider. We saw more aquatic birds in -the Ravee than in our whole voyage; they consisted -of cranes, storks, pelicans, ducks, teal, &c. -Among the inhabitants of the river itself, a -creature called “bolun” was the most remarkable. -We saw several of them in the mouth of -the Ravee, which were of a black colour, and -rolled like the porpoise. The natives class this -fish with the alligator, and say it has four small<span class="pagenum" id="Page_134">[134]</span> -paws, and a long snout like a pig. Its habits -do not lead it on shore, and it lives on small -fish. The large alligator is unknown here; but -the long-nosed reptile called “ghuryal” abounds. -There is said to be a singular creature, called -“thundwa,” in this river, which is described as -of the turtle species, and to have a string in its -mouth, by which it can entangle a man, or even -an elephant. It is mentioned in the Shasters -as having seized the elephant of a god. I have -not seen the “thundwa,” nor do I believe the -story of it.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Table -supplies.</div> - -<p>Though we had journeyed thus far in the -country of the Seiks, we had not passed a village -inhabited by them, or seen any others of the -tribe than were attached to our suite. The -country is very poorly peopled, and without -tillage for many miles. The means taken to -supply our wants in the voyage often excited a -smile. Every villager in office had been addressed, -and a list of articles which are edible -to the “Firingees” ordered to be collected. -Baskets of eggs, kept for weeks in expectation -of our arrival, were daily brought to us, sometimes -to the number of 400 or 500; but they -were better adapted for the punishment of a -malefactor in the pillory than the table, and, in -a few, chickens were to be found in the shell! -Butchers were brought from Mooltan to supply<span class="pagenum" id="Page_135">[135]</span> -our wants: loads of saltpetre were daily sent -to cool the wine and water, and the necessaries -and luxuries of life were supplied without -bounds.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Heat.</div> - -<p>The heat now became oppressive, and gave -indication of the monsoon, according to the -natives. In the afternoon of the 3d of July we -had the thermometer so high as 110° at 4 <span class="allsmcap">P. M.</span>; -and at sunset a storm set in from the north-west, -which was really sublime. Clouds appeared to -approach us for about half an hour, gradually -rising from the horizon, and looking more like -mountains in motion. When it came upon us, -we found it to be one of those tornadoes that -we experienced near Mooltan, and unaccompanied -by rain. The wind was hot and sultry, -and bore clouds of fine dust along with it. It -passed over in an hour, and was succeeded by -vivid flashes of lightning from the same quarter. -Six days after the phenomenon the rain set in -with great violence; and till then we had a continuance -of the dust every evening.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Arrival of -an elephant.</div> - -<p>Our Mihmandar waited on us at the village -of Cheechawutnee with an enormous elephant, -and said that he had been instructed by the -Maharaja to place it at our disposal, as he feared -the native houda did not suit our taste: he was -right in his conjectures, and we appreciated the -civility. The animal was richly caparisoned,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_136">[136]</span> -and bore a large chair, ornamented with silver -and enamel work, lined with red velvet. He -was accompanied by six of the Maharaja’s own -Orderlies, in dresses of scarlet faced with yellow, -which had a good appearance. The Seiks, in -all the various military costumes that they have -adopted, never lay aside the small turban of -their tribe; which, I must say, becomes them.</p> - -<p>It was a source of no small amusement to -watch the love of gossip among the natives of -our suite. We had a reporter sent purposely -from the Court, who daily despatched an account -of our employment and rides: the news-writer -of Mooltan followed us from that city, and every -day transmitted a Gazette; I had also letters from -the news-writer at Lahore, giving me a <i>précis</i> of -local news, and asking for a <i>morceau</i> in return. -Our Dewan corresponded with the Chevaliers -Ventura and Allard; and I was somewhat surprized -to receive answers to many of my enquiries -regarding the country from the former -gentleman, to whom their subject had been communicated -without my knowledge. Nothing, -however, could exceed the politeness of all the -people towards us; and the ready and happy -manner they acceded to our wishes made us -careful to wish for any thing. As may be supposed, -there were no bounds to their flattery; -and we were daily informed that we were the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_137">[137]</span> -“second Alexander,” the “Sikunder sanee,” -for having achieved so dangerous a voyage as the -Indus. The polite natives of this quarter view -with dread the barbarity and customs of Sindees -and Beloochees.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Ruins of -Harapa.</div> - -<p>About fifty miles eastward of Toolumba, I -passed inland for four miles to examine the -ruins of an ancient city, called Harapa. The -remains are extensive, and the place, which -has been built of brick, is about three miles in -circumference. There is a ruined citadel on the -river side of the town; but otherwise Harapa is -a perfect chaos, and has not an entire building: -the bricks have been removed to build a small -place of the old name hard by. Tradition fixes -the fall of Harapa at the same period as Shorkote -(1300 years ago), and the people ascribe its ruin -to the vengeance of God on Harapa, its governor, -who claimed certain privileges on the -marriage of every couple in his city, and in -the course of his sensualities, was guilty of incest. -At a later period, Harapa became a Mahommedan -town; and there is a tomb of a Saint -of the “faithful,” eighteen feet in length, the -assigned, but fabulous, stature of the deceased. -A large stone of annular form, and a huge black -slab of an oval shape, which lie near the grave, -are said to represent the ring and its gem of this -departed giant, and to have been converted from<span class="pagenum" id="Page_138">[138]</span> -more valuable to their present base materials. -Where such fables are believed, we must cease -to hope for even reasonable fiction. I found -some coins in these ruins, both Persian and -Hindoo, but I cannot fix its era from any of -them.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">The inhabitants.</div> - -<p>As we ascended the Ravee, and cleared the -country of the Kattias, the population increased, -and their hamlets, though small, were numerous. -Crowds of people flocked to the banks of the -river as we approached, and evinced the most -intense curiosity to see us. One man would -call out that he was a Syud, another that he -was a Zemindar, a third that he was a Peer, or -Saint, and a fourth, that he was a Seik; while -the ladies themselves were not backward in expressing -their anxiety for a sight of us. On such -occasions we always moved out of our cabin, or -bungalow; but this ready exhibition only attracted -another concourse of spectators. The -notions which they entertained of us were most -extravagant: we were believed to be under the -guardian care of two pigeons, who shaded us -from the sun and rain. One individual asked -us seriously to impart to him the secret of converting -shreds of onions into gold ducats, which -he had understood we had been practising!</p> - -<div class="sidenote">A tiger -hunt.</div> - -<p>The bravery of our Seik friends had been -already exhibited to us by their attacking the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_139">[139]</span> -wild hog with a sword, on foot; but a nobler -specimen of their courage was displayed in the -death of a tiger. We disturbed the animal in a -thicket of tamarisk close to our boats; and the -Mihmandar immediately invited us to see the -sport. Mr. Leckie accompanied the party; but -our elephant was not at hand, and I did not go. -The party was entirely composed of horsemen. -The monster was speedily wounded by some one, -and several riders were unhorsed from the fright -of their steeds. The Seiks then advanced on -foot, sword in hand, to attack the tiger: he -sprang at one man most furiously; and, as he -fixed on his left shoulder, the poor fellow bravely -struck his head by a well-directed blow: the -contest was unequal, and the man fell, horribly -lacerated. His comrades instantly ran up, and, -with cuts and wounds, the tiger soon fell. He -was a huge animal, and measured ten feet: -his thigh was as large as that of a full-grown -man. The coolness and courage of the Seiks -surpass belief; they have great encouragement -from their chiefs. To all my enquiries regarding -the unfortunate man that had been -wounded, they replied, with an ostentation of -indifference, that he was but a Seik, would -be well rewarded, and had already received a -horse, and his annual pay had been increased an -hundred rupees. The skin, head, and paws of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_140">[140]</span> -the tiger were immediately despatched to the -Maharaja, whose bounty will be further extended -to the wounded. This encouragement makes -these people the bravest of the Indians.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Strange -treatment.</div> - -<p>The faculty will be surprised at the Seik -mode of curing a wound received from a tiger, -at variance as it is with European practices. -They entertain an opinion that, if a person -who has been so wounded be allowed to sleep, -he will see the tiger in his dreams, and thus -lose his heart, and inevitably die. They therefore -furnish the patient with the strongest stimulants, -and set people to prevent his falling asleep for -five or six days. By that time the wounds assume -a certain appearance; and they then permit -the man to rest. In the instance which I have -mentioned, I can answer for the copious use of -stimulants, as we supplied the brandy.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Intelligence -of a -Seik.</div> - -<p>The intelligence of the Seik Sirdar Senu Sing, -our Mihmandar, had, more than once, arrested -my attention. From a perusal of translations, -he had acquired some knowledge of our astronomical -system, and of the astrolabe, with -several other such instruments. He expressed -his doubts on some parts of the theory; and -asked me to explain the continuance of the pole -star in one place when the earth was said to -move so many miles daily in its orbit round the -sun. Among other information that I was<span class="pagenum" id="Page_141">[141]</span> -enabled to impart to him, I showed him the -thermometer, and explained the nature of the -instrument. He immediately had the whole -particulars committed to writing: and, where -such avidity, and so laudable a thirst for knowledge, -were displayed, I could not withhold -making him a present of the instrument. This -Sirdar was equally expert in the martial exercises -of his nation: he handled the bow with -grace and dexterity; he was an excellent horseman, -and could hit a mark at full speed; and I -have seen him touch the ground with both feet -at the gallop, and regain his seat. I must -mention that his curiosity did not always take a -scientific turn; for his wonder had been excited -by our art in preserving meat, fish, &c. A ham, -which I showed him, was calculated to satisfy -his doubts; and he was only contented when he -had got a complete recipe for curing it. The -Seiks are very fond of hog; and ham bids fair -to be a standing dish in the Punjab. By the -11th of July we had left the country of the -Kattias, and reached Futtihpoor, where the -land is cultivated. Our approach to Lahore -seemed to facilitate every arrangement: a detachment -of fifty lancers had been stationed in -the intervening villages, to assemble the inhabitants, -to drag the boats the moment we approached. -Our own suite was now increased to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_142">[142]</span> -about 500 people; and to a drum and fife, -which had always been with us, a bugle was -added. Such dissonance as was now produced -was never heard “at tattoo or reveille o;” and -they played at both hours. - - -<span class="sidenote">A Cashmere -boat.</span> -We had also a -Cashmere boat sent for our accommodation, -called the “purinda” or bird. It was a complete -skiff, about sixty feet long, and pointed at -both ends, so that half of the boat did not even -touch the water. I am informed that this style -of build, not unlike the gondola of Venice, is -general in the lake of Cashmere. The crew were -natives of that country; and they impelled their -vessel by small green-painted paddles, with which -they struck the water in a peculiar manner. -They were very handsome and athletic men, -dressed in red jackets. The boat itself had a -square bungalow in the centre, with a flat roof; -where we sat during the cool of the evening. -She was flat-bottomed; and had her planks -clamped with iron. Her motion through the -water was tremulous, and by no means agreeable; -but the celerity with which vessels of this -kind move is acknowledged.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Letter from -Lahore.</div> - -<p>On the 13th of July, a deputation from the -Kardar of Kot Kamalia waited on us with presents -of fruit, &c., and a sum of 1100 rupees. -A letter was brought, at the same time, from -the Maharaja, expressive of his great satisfaction<span class="pagenum" id="Page_143">[143]</span> -at our approach. The epistle was flowery to a -degree seldom met with even in the Persian -language; and filled with similes about gardens, -roses, zephyrs, and fountains. Every word of a -letter which I had addressed to his Highness -was declared to be a bud of everlasting friendship; -and every letter of every word was a -blown rose! But the document would require -a translation, and that, perhaps, it does not -deserve.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Religious -wars of the -Seiks.</div> - -<p>Neither the congratulations nor munificence -of the Maharaja could keep our people well: -they were attacked with whitlow; and there -were no less than seven or eight of them laid up -at once with that painful complaint. They -themselves ascribed it to the water; but I was -rather disposed to attribute it to a want of it and -exercise; for they had had a voyage of longer -duration than a trip from India to England. -We now entered the country of the Seiks. All -these people are either soldiers or husbandmen, -like the Romans of old. They were very -communicative; and described with much ardour -the campaigns in which they have fought, -and their collision with the bigoted Euzoofzyes -across the Indus. I should hardly expect to -be credited if I recorded many of the circumstances -that have been communicated to me, -and the number of people that have fallen<span class="pagenum" id="Page_144">[144]</span> -in these religious wars. The Euzoofzyes entertain -such hatred for the infidel Seiks, that they often -declare themselves “ghazee,” and devote their -lives to their extinction; believing that the death -of one of them is more meritorious than that of -any other unbeliever. As the Seik religion arose -some hundred years after Mahommed, they are -not certainly supported by their prophet. To -use an expression of the Seiks, the Euzoofzyes -“laugh at death.” It has been justly remarked, -that we know little and care less for the history -of such transactions, when we have no connection -with the parties concerned.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Deputation.</div> - -<p>In the evening of the 15th we reached Changa, -about twenty-five miles from Lahore, and were -received by a deputation from the Maharaja, consisting -of two Seik Sirdars, and Noorodeen -Fakeer, of a Mahommedan family enjoying -trust and influence at Court. The meeting, as -was requested, took place on elephants, five of -which bore the magnates and ourselves. Each -individual delivered a purse of money in gold -and silver, and, by his Highness’ desire, asked -for the health of the King of England, and the -period that had elapsed since we left London: -for the Maharaja, it seemed, believed us to have -been deputed from the royal footstool. I replied -as circumstances required. The principal -Seik, by name Sham Sing, presented a bow.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_145">[145]</span> -The party also produced a letter from the Maharaja, -mentioning that they had been instructed -to congratulate us on our arrival, and use every -expression which could be pleasing to the sense; -and a tissue of flattery ensued, which I confess -my inability to describe.</p> - -<p>“The seasons,” said the Fakeer, “have -been changed to aid your safe arrival; and -when it should have rained, the sun shines; but -it is the sun of England. You must now consider -yourselves at home, and in a garden, of -which you are the roses; that such a friendship -had now grown up between the British -and the Seiks, that the inhabitants of Iran and -Room would hear it proclaimed in their distant -dominions; that light had succeeded darkness -when we merged from the barbarians of Sinde, -and that its genial influence had changed the -bud into the rose.” I should exhaust a vocabulary -if I recorded all his expressions. I -replied as well as I could in the same style, asking -after the Maharaja’s health; and assured the -deputation of our satisfaction at the kindness -and attention which we had received in the Seik -dominions. Before taking leave, I showed the -party the horses, with which they were delighted.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Escort.</div> - -<p>The Sirdars brought an escort of lancers and -Seik cavalry: the latter party were entirely -dressed in yellow, and had just returned with<span class="pagenum" id="Page_146">[146]</span> -Sham Sing from the campaign against Syud -Ahmed, who had long carried on a fanatical war -in this country, and had been lately killed.</p> - -<p>Among the party, a boy was pointed out, who -had been nominated to the command held by his -fallen father,—a Seik rule admirably calculated -to feed the military spirit of their nation. We -rode among them, evidently much to their delight, -and to our own amusement. The chiefs -wore many valuable jewels; but these ornaments -did not become the wrists and brows of such -warriors.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Seik ladies.</div> - -<p>We had now an opportunity of seeing the -Seik ladies, who are not less peculiar in their -appearance than their husbands. They knot the -hair at the crown, and throw a white robe over -it, which entirely envelopes the body, and gives -a conical shape to the head. They pull up the -hair so tight to form this knot, that the skin of -the forehead is drawn with it, and the eyebrows -are considerably removed from the visual organ. -As may be imagined, this fashion does not improve -their personal appearance, yet it is general -among all classes of the females. The Seik ladies -are not so handsome as their husbands; their -features are sharp and regular. They are not -confined to their houses as strictly as the Mahommedan -women; for the Seiks, in matrimony -as well as religion, differ widely from the -followers of the Prophet.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_147">[147]</span></p> - -<p>In the evening of the 16th, we had a second -visit from the deputation of yesterday, who -brought us a sum of 700 rupees, with an announcement -from the Maharaja that that amount -had been fixed on as our daily allowance during -our further stay in the Punjab. I accepted the -sum, but did not consider it proper to allow of -such wasteful munificence being in future continued.</p> - -<p>At noon, on the 17th of July, we came in -sight of the lofty minarets of the King’s mosque -at Lahore, and might have reached the ancient -capital of the Moghul empire, and the termination -of our protracted voyage; but the ceremonial of -our <i>entrée</i> required arrangement, and we halted -three or four miles from the city, at the earnest -request of our conductors. As the sun set, I -saw, for the first time, the massy mountains -which encircle Cashmere, clothed in a mantle of -white snow. I felt a nervous sensation of joy as -I first gazed on the Himalaya, and almost forgot -the duties I owed to our conductors, in contemplating -these mighty works of nature.</p> - - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_148">[148]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAP_VI">CHAP. VI.<br /> - -<span class="smaller">LAHORE.</span></h2> - -</div> - - -<div class="sidenote">Enter -Lahore.</div> - -<p>On the morning of the 18th of June we made -our public entrance into Lahore. The Maharaja’s -minister, Uzeez-o-Deen, and Raja Ghoolab -Sing, with the principal men of the state, met -us at a distance of three miles from the city, -escorted by a guard of cavalry and a regiment -of infantry. We were introduced to these personages -by Captain Wade, the political agent of -government at Lodiana, who had been deputed -to Lahore on the occasion, and was accompanied -by Dr. A. Murray. The sight of these gentlemen, -after our long absence from European society, -excited the most pleasurable feelings. Our -reception was also most gratifying, heightened, -as it was, by the reflection that our undertaking -had been this day brought to a safe and -successful issue. We alighted at a garden about -a mile from Lahore, the residence of M. Chevalier -Allard, whose manners and address were -engaging and gentlemanlike. We here parted -with the deputation, after receiving a large sum -of money and a profusion of sweetmeats in the -name of the Maharaja.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_149">[149]</span></p> - -<p>The Chevalier then conducted us to an upper -room, where we sat down to a <i>déjeûné à la -fourchette</i> of the richest cookery.</p> - -<p>Another French gentleman, M. Court, was -of our party. The scene was novel to us: the -walls and roof of the apartment were entirely -inlaid with small pieces of mirror. Champagne -usurped the place of tea and coffee. M. Allard -is the Maharaja’s General of cavalry; and we had -the trumpets of his division in attendance during -breakfast. We continued with our worthy host -during the following day, which passed in preparations -for our introduction at Court, which -had been fixed for the 20th instant.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Presentation -at -Court.</div> - -<p>About 9 <span class="allsmcap">A. M.</span>, when the Maharaja had reached -the ancient palace that stands within the walls -of Lahore, he sent a deputation of his nobles -to conduct us to Court. All the Sirdars and -officers who had been from time to time sent -to us were previously in attendance, besides a -numerous escort; and the pageant was further -swelled by a detachment of Bengal sepoys which -Captain Wade had brought from Lodiana. The -coach, which was a handsome vehicle, headed -the procession; and in rear of the dray-horses -we ourselves followed on elephants, with the -officers of the Maharaja. We passed close under -the walls of the city, between them and the -ditch, and entered Lahore by the palace gate. -The streets were lined with cavalry, artillery,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_150">[150]</span> -and infantry, all of which saluted as we passed. -The concourse of people was immense; they -had principally seated themselves on the balconies -of the houses, and preserved a most respectful -silence. On entering the first court of -the palace, we were received by Raja Dihan -Sing, a fine soldierlike looking person, dressed -in armour, by whom we were conducted to the -door of the palace. While stooping to remove -my shoes at the threshold, I suddenly found -myself in the arms and tight embrace of a diminutive -old-looking man,—the great Maharaja -Runjeet Sing. He was accompanied by two of -his sons, who likewise embraced Mr. Leckie and -myself; when the Maharaja conducted me by -the hand to the interior of his court; our -reception was of the most distinguished nature, -and he had advanced that distance to -do us honour. We found Captain Wade and -Dr. Murray in the Durbar, and all of us were -seated on silver chairs, in front of his Highness. -The Maharaja made various complimentary remarks; -asked particularly after the health of -his Majesty the King of Great Britain; and, -as we had come from Bombay, enquired for -Sir John Malcolm. When we had been seated -a short time, I informed his Highness that I -had brought along with me in safety to Lahore -five horses, which his most gracious Majesty -the King of England had conferred upon him,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_151">[151]</span> -in consideration of the relations of amity and -concord subsisting between the states; as also -a carriage from the Right Honourable the -Governor-general of India, in token of his -Lordship’s esteem. I then added, that the -horses were accompanied by a most friendly -letter from his Majesty’s minister for the affairs -of India, which I held in my hand in a -bag of cloth of gold, sealed with the arms -of England. On this the Maharaja and his -Court, as well as ourselves, rose up, and his -Highness received the letter, and touched his -forehead with the seal. The letter was then -handed to his minister, Uzeez-o-Deen, who read -a Persian translation of it in the presence of the -whole Court. The envoys from the surrounding -states were present. The following is a copy -of the communication with which his Majesty -had honoured the ruler of <span class="lock">Lahore:—</span></p> - -<div class="sidenote">Letter from -the King.</div> - - - -<h3>COPY OF A LETTER FROM HIS MAJESTY’S MINISTER -FOR THE AFFAIRS OF INDIA TO MAHARAJA -RUNJEET SING, DELIVERED TO HIS HIGHNESS -AT LAHORE, ON THE 20TH OF JULY, 1831.</h3> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p class="center"><i>To His Highness Maharaja Runjeet Sing, Chief -of the Seik Nation, and Lord of Cashmere.</i></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Maharaja</span>,</p> - -<p>The King, my most gracious master, has -commanded me to express to your Highness<span class="pagenum" id="Page_152">[152]</span> -his Majesty’s acknowledgments of your Highness’s -attention in transmitting to his Majesty, -by the esteemed and excellent Lord, Earl, Amherst, -the splendid manufacture of your Highness’s -subjects of Cashmere.</p> - -<p>The King, knowing that your Highness is in -possession of the most beautiful horses of the -most celebrated breeds of Asia, has thought that -it might be agreeable to your Highness to possess -some horses of the most remarkable breed -of Europe; and, in the wish to gratify your -Highness in this matter, has commanded me to -select for your Highness some horses of the -gigantic breed which is peculiar to England.</p> - -<p>These horses, selected with care requiring -much time, I now send to your Highness; and -as their great weight makes it inexpedient that -they should undergo the fatigue of a long march -in a hot climate, I have directed that they shall -be conveyed to your Highness by the Indus, -and such river of the Punjab as may be most -easy of navigation.</p> - -<p>The King has given me his most special commands -to intimate to your Highness the sincere -satisfaction with which his Majesty has witnessed -the good understanding which has for so -many years subsisted, and which may God ever -preserve, between the British Government and -your Highness.</p> - -<p>His Majesty relies with confidence on the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_153">[153]</span> -continuance of a state of peace, so beneficial to -the subjects of both powers; and his Majesty -earnestly desires that your Highness may live -long in health and honour, extending the blessings -of beneficent government to the nations -under your Highness’s rule.</p> - -<p class="sig"> -By the King’s command.<br /> -<br /> -(Signed) <span class="smcap">Ellenborough</span>. -</p> -</div> - -<div class="sidenote">Runjeet -Sing’s stud.</div> - -<p>As the contents of the document were unfolded, -the Maharaja gave evident symptoms of -his satisfaction; and when the letter was half -read, he said that he would greet its arrival by a -salute; and a peal of artillery from sixty guns, -each firing twenty-one times, announced to the -citizens of Lahore the joy of their King. His -Highness then expressed his intention of viewing -the presents; and we accompanied him. -The sight of the horses excited his utmost surprise -and wonder, their size and colour pleased -him: he said they were little elephants; and, -as they passed singly before him, he called out -to his different Sirdars and officers, who joined -in his admiration. Nothing could exceed the -affability of the Maharaja: he kept up an uninterrupted -conversation for the hour and a half -which the interview lasted: he enquired particularly -about the depth of water in the Indus, -and the possibility of navigating it; and put<span class="pagenum" id="Page_154">[154]</span> -various questions regarding the people who occupy -its banks, and their political and military -importance. I alluded to the riches of Sinde, -which seemed to excite his utmost cupidity. -He introduced us to all the representatives of -the neighbouring states, and concluded by asking -if we should like to see his own stud. About -thirty horses were immediately brought, and -passed in review order before us. They were -caparisoned in the richest and most superb manner; -and some of them were adorned with very -valuable jewels: he named each horse, and -described his pedigree and points, as he was -brought up. They were of all countries; and -from their necks being tightly reined up, certainly -looked well; but they were not the stud -which one would have expected at Lahore—all -the horses appeared to be under-limbed. The -exertion which his Highness underwent seemed -to exhaust him, and we withdrew. Nature -has, indeed, been sparing in her gifts to this -personage; and there must be a mighty contrast -between his mind and body. He has -lost an eye, is pitted by the small pox, and his -stature does not certainly exceed five feet three -inches. He is entirely free from pomp and -show, yet the studied respect of his Court is -remarkable; not an individual spoke without a -sign, though the throng was more like a bazar<span class="pagenum" id="Page_155">[155]</span> -than the Court of the first native Prince in these -times.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Hall of -audience.</div> - -<p>The hall of audience, in which the interview -took place, was built entirely of marble, and is -the work of the Moghul Emperors; part of the -roof was gorgeously decorated by a pavilion of -silken cloth studded with jewels. The Maharaja -himself wore a necklace, armlets, and bracelets -of emeralds, some of which were very large. -His sword was mounted with the most precious -stones. The nobles were likewise dressed for -the occasion with jewels; and all the Court -appeared in yellow, the favourite colour of the -nation, which has a gaudy but striking effect.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Military -spectacle.</div> - -<p>On the following morning, the Maharaja intimated -his wish for our presence at a military -review in honour of passing events. We found -his Highness on the parade ground, seated on a -terrace, a short distance from the walls of Lahore. -Five regiments of regular infantry were -drawn up in line, three deep. Runjeet requested -we would pass down the line and inspect them. -They were dressed in white, with black cross -belts, and bore muskets, the manufacture of -Cashmere or Lahore: there was a mixture of -Hindoostanees and Seiks in every corps. After -the inspection, the brigade manœuvred under -a native general officer, and went through its<span class="pagenum" id="Page_156">[156]</span> -evolutions with an exactness and precision fully -equal to our Indian troops: the words of command -were given in French.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Conversations.</div> - -<p>During the spectacle, his Highness conversed -with great fluency, and asked our opinions on -his army and their equipments. His muskets, -he said, cost him seventeen rupees each. He -was particularly desirous to know if a column of -British troops could advance against artillery. -From these subjects he passed to that of the -revenue of Cashmere; he had just got thirty-six -lacs of rupees, he said, from it this year, -which was an increase of six lacs. “All the -people I send to Cashmere,” continued he, -“turn out rascals (haramzada); there is too -much pleasure and enjoyment in that country;” -and when he considered the importance -of the place, he believed he must send -one of his sons, or go himself. This is the -style of Runjeet Sing’s conversation; but his -inquisitive disposition, and pertinent questions, -mark the strength of his character. He found -out, among our establishment, a native of India, -who had been in England, whom he first interrogated -in our presence, and afterwards sent -for privately, to know if the wealth and power -of the British nation were as great as had been -represented. We left his Highness, on observing<span class="pagenum" id="Page_157">[157]</span> -preparations for breakfast,—a meal which he -usually takes in the open air, and in presence of -his troops, and even sometimes on horseback. -His passion for riding and performing distant -journeys is great; and, on such occasions, he -will take his meal on the saddle rather than -dismount.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">French -officers.</div> - -<p>We took up our abode in the garden-house of -M. Chevalier Ventura, another French General, -who was absent on the Indus with his legion. -The building had been constructed in the European -style; but the Chevalier has added a -terrace, with ninety fountains, to cool the surrounding -atmosphere. Our intercourse with the -French officers was on the most friendly footing; -and it continued so during our residence -at Lahore. Among these gentlemen, M. Court -struck me as an acute and well informed person; -he is both a geographer and an antiquarian. -M. Court, as well as his brother officers, -was formerly in the service of one of the -Persian Princes, and travelled to India as a -native, which gave him an opportunity of acquiring -the best information regarding the intervening -countries. He showed me the route -from Kermenshah, by Herat, Candahar, Ghuzni, -and Cabool, to Attok, constructed topographically -with great care; and he informed me, at<span class="pagenum" id="Page_158">[158]</span> -the same time, that he had been less anxious to -obtain a complete map of that part of Asia, than -to ascertain one good route, with its détours, -and the military and statistical resources of the -country. The French have much better information -of these countries than ourselves; and -M. Court, in explaining his map to me, pointed -out the best routes for infantry and cavalry. -This gentleman has likewise employed a residence -of four years in the Punjab to illustrate -its geography; he has encountered jealousy -from Runjeet Sing, but still managed to complete -a broad belt of survey from Attok to the -neighbourhood of our own frontier. I doubt -not but the antiquities as well as the geography -of the Punjab will be illustrated by this intelligent -gentleman; who, to his honour be it said, -adds to a zeal in the pursuit, the strongest desire -to disseminate his own knowledge and stimulate -others. The fruit of M. Court’s labours, I believe, -will, ere long, be given to the public by the -Geographical Society of Paris, or some other of -the learned bodies in that capital.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">City of -Lahore.</div> - -<p>In our evening rambles at Lahore, we had -many opportunities of viewing this city. The -ancient capital extended from east to west for a -distance of five miles; and had an average -breadth of three, as may be yet traced by the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_159">[159]</span> -ruins. The mosques and tombs, which have -been more stably built than the houses, remain -in the midst of fields and cultivation as caravansaries -for the traveller. The modern city -occupies the western angle of the ancient capital, -and is encircled by a strong wall. The -houses are very lofty; and the streets, which -are narrow, offensively filthy, from a gutter -that passes through the centre. The bazars of -Lahore do not exhibit much appearance of -wealth; but the commercial influence of the -Punjab is to be found at Umritsir, the modern -capital. There are some public buildings within -the city that deserve mention. The King’s -mosque is a capacious building of red sandstone, -which had been brought by Aurungzebe -from near Delhi. Its four lofty minarets still -stand, but the temple itself has been converted -into a powder magazine. There are two other -mosques, with minarets, to proclaim the falling -greatness of the Mahommedan empire; where -the “faithful,” as every where else in the Punjab, -must offer up their prayers in silence.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Tomb of -Juhangeer.</div> - -<p>But the stranger must cross the Ravee to -behold the finest ornament of Lahore—the -“Shah Dura,” or tomb of the Emperor Juhangeer, -which is a monument of great beauty. It -is a quadrangular building, with a minaret at<span class="pagenum" id="Page_160">[160]</span> -each corner, rising to the height of seventy feet. -It is built chiefly of marble and red stone, which -are alternately interlaid in all parts of the building. -The sepulchre is of most chaste workmanship, -with its inscriptions and ornaments -arranged in beautiful mosaic; the shading of -some roses and other flowers is even preserved -by the different colours of the stone. Two lines -of black letters, on a ground of white marble, -announce the name and title of the “Conqueror -of the World,” Juhangeer; and about a hundred -different words in Arabic and Persian, with the -single signification of God, are distributed on -different parts of the sepulchre. The floor of -the building is also mosaic. The tomb was formerly -covered by a dome; but Bahadoor Shah -threw it down, that the dew and rain of heaven -might fall on the tomb of his grandfather Juhangeer. -It is probable that this beautiful monument -will soon be washed into the river Ravee, -which is capricious in its course near Lahore, -and has lately overwhelmed a portion of the -garden wall that environs the tomb.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Shalimar.</div> - -<p>The next, though by no means the least, object -of interest at Lahore is the garden of Shah -Jehan; the Shalimar or “house of joy.” It is -a magnificent remnant of Moghul grandeur, -about half a mile in length, with three successive<span class="pagenum" id="Page_161">[161]</span> -terraces, each above the level of the other. A -canal, which is brought from a great distance, -intersects this beautiful garden, and throws up -its water in 450 fountains to cool the atmosphere. -The marble couch of the Emperor yet remains; -but the garden suffered much injury before -Runjeet Sing obtained his present ascendancy. -The Maharaja himself has removed some of the -marble houses; but he has had the good taste -to replace them, though it be by more ignoble -stone.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Conversations -of -Runjeet -Sing.</div> - -<p>As we were proceeding one morning to examine -the tomb of Juhangeer, we found Runjeet -Sing seated on the plain, and surrounded by -his troops. He sent one of his officers to call -us; and we passed about half an hour with him. -He gave us an account of the inroads of the -Afghans into the Punjab, and told us that we -now sat on their ground of encampment. Zuman -Shah, the blind king at Lodiana, he said, had -thrice sacked the city of Lahore; he also talked -of his designs on India, and the vicissitudes to -which kings are subject. The Maharaja was -the plainest dressed man at his Durbar; his -clothes were shabby and worn. On the evening -of the 25th, his Highness gave us a private -audience, in which we saw him to great advantage; -for he directed his Court to withdraw. -On our arrival, we found him seated on a chair,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_162">[162]</span> -with a party of thirty or forty dancing girls, -dressed uniformly in boys’ clothes. - - -<span class="sidenote">Dancing -girls.</span> -They were -mostly natives of Cashmere or the adjacent -mountains, on whom grace and beauty had -not been sparingly bestowed. Their figures -and features were small; and their Don Giovanni -costume of flowing silk most becoming, -improved as it was by a small bow and quiver -in the hand of each. The “eyes of Cashmere” -are celebrated in the poetry of the -East, of which these Dianas now furnished -brilliant specimens, in gems black and bright; -disfigured, however, by a kind of sparkling gold -dust glued round each organ. “This,” said Runjeet -Sing, “is one of my regiments (pultuns), but -they tell me it is one I cannot discipline;” a -remark which amused us, and mightily pleased -the fair. He pointed out two of the ladies, -whom he called the “Commandants” of this -arm of his service, to whom he had given villages, -and an allowance of five and ten rupees a day. -He shortly afterwards called for four or five -elephants to take these, his <i>undisciplined</i> troops, -home. Runjeet then commenced on more important -subjects; and ran over, among other -things, the whole history of his connexion with -the British Government. It had at first, he -said, excited great suspicion and discontent -among the Seik Sirdars; but he himself was<span class="pagenum" id="Page_163">[163]</span> -satisfied of its advantage from the outset. Sir -John Malcolm, he continued, had first stood his -friend in 1805; and Sir Charles Metcalfe had -completed his happiness. Sir David Ochterlony -had further cemented the bonds of friendship; -and the letter which I had now delivered to him -from the minister of the King of England -partook more of the nature of a treaty than a -common epistle, and had gratified him beyond -his powers of expression. He here recurred to -the riches of Sinde, expressing an earnest desire -to appropriate them to his own use; and put -the most pointed questions to me regarding the -feelings of Government on such a subject. Runjeet -is very fond of comparing the relative -strength of the European nations; and, on this -occasion, he asked whether France or England -were the greater power. I assured him they -were both great; but he had only to remember -our power in India to be satisfied of the military -character of Britain. “Well, then,” added -he, “what do you think of my French officers?” -After this, he wished to know if I had -heard of his campaigns across the Indus against -the “Ghazees,” or fanatics of the Mahommedan -religion; and said that he owed all his successes -to the bravery of his nation, who were very free -from prejudice, would carry eight days’ provision -on their backs, dig a well if water were scarce,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_164">[164]</span> -and build a fort if circumstances required it; a -kind of service which he could not prevail on -the natives of Hindostan to perform. “The -bravery of my troops, as you are aware, conquered -Cashmere for me; and how do you -think,” said he, “I dispose of the shawls and -productions of that country in the present glut -of trade? I pay my officers and troops with -them; and as I give a Chief, who may be entitled -to a balance of 300 rupees, shawls to the -value of 500, he is well pleased, and the state -is benefited.” From the shawls of Cashmere, -Runjeet passed to the praises of wine and strong -drinks, of which he is immoderately fond: he begged -to know if I had drank the supply which he -had sent me, which, as a recommendation, he assured -us was mixed with pearls and precious gems. -This, I should mention, is a common beverage -in the East; a fashion which probably had its -origin in the giver desiring to make the grounds -as well as the contents of the bottle acceptable: -pearls would form a good glass for the butler. -We continued, till it was late, conversing with -Runjeet in this desultory manner; when he produced -a splendid bow and quiver, as also a horse -richly caparisoned, with a shawl cloth thrown -over his body, a necklace of agate, and a heron’s -plume stuck on his head, saying, “This is one of -my riding horses, which I beg you will accept.”<span class="pagenum" id="Page_165">[165]</span> -He also gave a similar present to Mr. Leckie; -and while we were looking at the animals, one -of the dray horses was brought forward, dressed -out in cloth of gold, and bearing an elephant’s -saddle on his back! I could not suppress a -smile at the exhibition. Runjeet then sprinkled -sandal oil and rose water over us with his own -hands, which completed the ceremony. As we -were moving, he called us back to beg that we -would attend him early next morning, and he -would order a review of his horse artillery for -our amusement.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Horse artillery.</div> - -<p>We met his Highness at an appointed hour on -the parade ground, with a train of fifty-one -pieces of artillery which he had assembled on -the occasion. They were brass 6-pounders, -each drawn by six horses. The command was -taken by a native officer, who put them through -the movements of horse artillery, and formed -line and column in every direction. The evolutions -were not rapidly performed; but the -celerity was considerable; and no accident in -overturning or firing occurred throughout the -morning. There were no waggons in the field, -and the horses and equipments were inferior. -The guns, however, were well cast, and the -carriages in good repair: they had been made -at Lahore, and had cost him 1000 rupees each. -As the troops were passing in review order,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_166">[166]</span> -he asked for our candid opinion regarding the -display. “Every gun which you now see costs -me 5000 rupees annually, in the pay of the -officers and men, and in keeping up the horses. -I have 100 pieces of field artillery, exclusive -of battering guns and mortars, and my French -officers tell me I have too many. I can reduce -their number,” added he, “but it is a -difficult matter to increase it.” We had not -sat much longer with him, when he said, “You -must breakfast with me;” an honour with which -we would have rather dispensed, but there was -no retreating. The chairs were removed, and a -velvet cushion was placed for each of us in front -of the Maharaja, and the simple fare of this potentate -produced. It consisted of various kinds -of rice, with milk, sugar, and some preserved -mangoes; all of which were served up in leaves -sewed together. Runjeet selected the choicest -parts, and handed them to us himself; politeness -compelled us to keep him company. The -thumb and fingers are certainly a poor substitute -for the knife and fork. When breakfast was -finished, Runjeet asked if we would accept a -dinner from him; and immediately gave instructions -for its preparation, and we had it sent -to us in the evening. It was much the same -as the breakfast, and served up in a similar -manner.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_167">[167]</span></p> - -<p>Runjeet Sing is, in every respect, an extraordinary -character. I have heard his French -officers observe that he has no equal from Constantinople -to India; and all of them have seen -the intermediate powers.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Character -of Runjeet -Sing.</div> - -<p>We continued at Lahore as the guests of the -Maharaja till the 16th of August, and had many -opportunities of meeting him; but I do not -think I can add any thing to the history of his -rise, drawn up by the late Captain William -Murray, Political agent at Ambala. The most -creditable trait in Runjeet’s character is his humanity; -he has never been known to punish a -criminal with death since his accession to power; -he does not hesitate to mutilate a malefactor, -but usually banishes him to the hills. Cunning -and conciliation have been the two great weapons -of his diplomacy. It is too probable, that the -career of this chief is nearly at an end; his -chest is contracted, his back is bent, his limbs -withered, and it is not likely that he can long -bear up against a nightly dose of spirits more -ardent than the strongest brandy.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Audience -of leave. -Precious -stones.</div> - -<p>On the 16th of August we had our audience -of leave with Runjeet Sing, but my fellow traveller -was unable to attend from indisposition. Captain -Wade accompanied me. He received us in -an eccentric manner, under an open gateway<span class="pagenum" id="Page_168">[168]</span> -leading to the palace. A piece of white cloth -was spread under our chairs instead of a carpet, -and there were but few of his Court in attendance. -In compliance with a wish that I had -expressed, he produced the “Koh-i-noor” or -mountain of light, one of the largest diamonds -in the world, which he had extorted from Shah -Shooja, the ex-King of Cabool. Nothing can be -imagined more superb than this stone; it is of -the finest water, and about half the size of an -egg. Its weight amounts to 3½ rupees, and if -such a jewel is to be valued, I am informed it is -worth 3½ millions of money, but this is a gross -exaggeration. The “Koh-i-noor” is set as an -armlet, with a diamond on each side about the -size of a sparrow’s egg.</p> - -<p>Runjeet seemed anxious to display his jewels -before we left him; and with the diamond was -brought a large ruby, weighing 14 rupees. It -had the names of several kings engraven on it, -among which were those of Aurungzebe and -Ahmed Shah. There was also a topaz of great -size, weighing 11 rupees, and as large as half -a billiard ball: Runjeet had purchased it for -20,000 rupees.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Presents.</div> - -<p>His Highness, after assuring us of his satisfaction -at a communication having been opened -with so remote a quarter of India as Bombay, as it<span class="pagenum" id="Page_169">[169]</span> -cemented his friendship with the British Government, -then invested me with a string of pearls: -he placed a diamond ring on one hand, and an -emerald one on the other, and handed me four -other jewels of emeralds and pearls. He then -girt round my waist a superb sword, adorned -with a knot of pearls. A horse was next brought, -richly dressed out with cloth of gold, and golden -ornaments on the bridle and saddle. A “khilut,” -or robe of honour, composed of a shawl -dress, and many other manufactures of Cashmere -were then delivered to me, as well as -presents of a similar nature for Mr. Leckie. -Three of our attendants were likewise favoured -by his Highness; and in his munificence, he sent -a sum of 2000 rupees for distribution among the -remainder of the suite. Maharaja Runjeet then -produced a letter in reply to the one which I -had brought from his Majesty’s minister, which -he requested I would deliver. It was put up in -a silken bag, and two small pearls were suspended -from the strings that fastened it. It -occupied a roll from four to five feet long. The -following is a verbal translation of the letter; -nor will it escape observation, that, with much -which is flowery and in bad taste to a European, -there is some display of sterling sense and judgment. -The titles which I had the honour to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_170">[170]</span> -receive from his Highness will not pass without -a smile.</p> - - -<h3><i>Copy of a Letter from Maharaja Runjeet Sing, -to the address of his Majesty’s Minister for the -Affairs of India. Delivered on the audience -of Leave.</i></h3> - - -<div class="blockquot"> - - -<div class="sidenote">Runjeet -Sing’s -reply.</div> - -<p>“At a happy moment, when the balmy zephyrs -of spring were blowing from the garden of -friendship, and wafting to my senses the grateful -perfume of its flowers, your Excellency’s -epistle, every letter of which is a new-blown -rose on the branch of regard, and every word -a blooming fruit on the tree of esteem, was -delivered to me by Mr. Burnes and Mr. -John Leckie, who were appointed to convey -to me some horses of superior quality, of -singular beauty, of alpine form, and elephantine -stature, admirable even in their own -country, which had been sent as a present to -me by his Majesty the King of Great Britain, -together with a large and elegant carriage. -These presents, owing to the care of the above -gentlemen, have arrived by way of the river -Sinde in perfect safety, and have been delivered -to me, together with your Excellency’s -letter, which breathes the spirit of friendship, -by that <i>nightingale of the garden of eloquence,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_171">[171]</span> -that bird of the winged words of sweet discourse, -Mr. Burnes</i>; and the receipt of them -has caused a thousand emotions of pleasure and -delight to arise in my breast.</p> - -<p>“The information communicated in your Excellency’s -letter, that his gracious Majesty -the King of England had been much pleased -with the shawl tent of Cashmere manufacture, -which I had the honour to forward as a -present, has given me the highest satisfaction; -but my heart is so overflowing with feelings -of pleasure and gratitude for all these marks -of kindness and attention on the part of his -Majesty, that I find it impossible to give them -vent in adequate expressions.</p> - -<p>“By the favour of Sri Akal Poorukh Jee<a id="FNanchor_13" href="#Footnote_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a>, -there are in my stables valuable and high-bred -horses from the different districts of Hindoostan, -from Turkistan, and Persia; but none of -them will bear comparison with those presented -to me by the King through your Excellency; -for these animals, in beauty, stature, and disposition, -surpass the horses of every city and -every country in the world. On beholding -their shoes, <i>the new moon turned pale -with envy, and nearly disappeared from the -sky</i>. Such horses, the eye of the sun has -never before beheld in his course through the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_172">[172]</span> -universe. Unable to bestow upon them in -writing the praises that they merit, I am compelled -to throw the reins on the neck of -the steed of description, and relinquish the -pursuit.</p> - -<p>“Your Excellency has stated, that you were -directed by his Majesty to communicate to me -his earnest desire for the permanence of the -friendship which has so long existed between -the two states, and which has been so conducive -to the comfort and happiness of the -subjects of both. Your Excellency has further -observed, that his Majesty hopes that I may -live long in health and honour to rule and protect -the people of this country. I beg that -you will assure his Majesty, that such sentiments -correspond entirely with those which I -entertain, both with respect to our existing -relations, and to the happiness and prosperity -of his Majesty and his subjects.</p> - -<p>“The foundations of friendship were first -established between the two states through -the instrumentality of Sir C. T. Metcalfe, a -gentleman endowed with every excellence of -character; and after that period, in consequence -of the long residence of Sir C. T. Metcalfe -in Hindostan, the edifice of mutual amity -and good understanding was strengthened and -completed by his attention and exertions.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_173">[173]</span></p> - -<p>“When the Right Honourable the Earl of -Amherst came on a visit to Hindoostan and -the Simla Hills, the ceremonials and practices -of reciprocal friendship were so well observed, -that the fame of it was diffused throughout the -whole country.</p> - -<p>“Captain Wade, since his appointment at -Lodiana, has ever been solicitous to omit -nothing which was calculated to augment and -strengthen the feeling of unanimity between -the two powers.</p> - -<p>“The Right Honourable Lord William Bentinck, -the present Governor-general, having -arrived some time since at Simla, I took the -opportunity of deputing respectable and confidential -officers, in company with Captain -Wade, on a complimentary mission to his -Lordship, with a letter enquiring after his -health. These officers, after having had the -honour of an interview, were dismissed by his -Lordship with marks of great distinction and -honour. On their return, they related to me -the particulars of the gracious reception they -had met with, the excellent qualities of his -Lordship, and also the sentiments of friendship -and regard which he had expressed towards -this state. These circumstances were very -gratifying to my feelings. Through the favour -of the Almighty, the present Governor-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_174">[174]</span>general -is, in every respect, disposed, like the -Earl of Amherst, to elevate and maintain the -standard of harmony and concord subsisting -between the two Governments; nay, from his -excellent qualities, I am disposed to cherish -the hope that he will be even more attentive -to this subject than his predecessor. Mr. -Burnes and Mr. John Leckie, before mentioned -as the bearers of the presents from his -Majesty, have extremely gratified me with -their friendly and agreeable conversation. The -mark of kindness and attention on the part of -the British Government, evinced by the deputation -of these officers, has increased my -friendship and regard for it a hundredfold; a -circumstance which, having become known -throughout the country, has occasioned great -satisfaction and pleasure to the friends and -wellwishers of both states, and a proportionate -regret in the hearts of their enemies. All -these particulars I hope you will bring to the -notice of his gracious Majesty.</p> - -<p>“I am confident, that, through the favour of -God, our friendship and attachment, which -are evident as the noonday sun, will always -continue firm, and be daily increased under -the auspices of his Majesty.</p> - -<p>“I have dismissed Mr. Burnes and Mr. -John Leckie with this friendly letter in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_175">[175]</span> -reply to your Excellency’s, and hope that -these officers will, after their safe arrival at -their destination, fully communicate to you -the sentiments of regard and esteem which I -entertain for your Excellency. In conclusion, -I trust that, knowing me always to be anxious -to receive the happy intelligence of the health -and prosperity of his Majesty, and also of your -own, your Excellency will continue to gratify -me by the transmission of letters, both from -the King and from yourself.”</p> - -<p class="center"> -(<i>True translation.</i>)</p> -<p class="sig"> -(Signed) <span class="smcap">E. Ravenshaw</span>,<br /> -<br /> -Depy. Pol. Secretary. -</p> -</div> - -<div class="sidenote">Departure -from Lahore.</div> - -<p>On presenting this letter his Highness embraced -me; and begged I would convey his high -sentiments of regard to the Governor-general -of India, I then took leave of Maharaja Runjeet -Sing, and quitted his capital of Lahore the same -evening in prosecution of my journey to Simla, -on the Himalaya Mountains, where I had been -summoned to give an account of my mission to -Lord William Bentinck, then residing in that -part of India.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Umritsir; -its temple.</div> - -<p>We reached Umritsir, the holy city of the -Seiks, on the following morning,—a distance of -thirty miles. The intervening country, called -Manja, is richly cultivated. The great canal, or<span class="pagenum" id="Page_176">[176]</span> -“nuhr,” which was cut from the Ravee by -one of the Emperors of Hindostan, and brings -the water for a distance of eighty miles, passes -by Umritsir, and runs parallel with the Lahore -road. It is very shallow, and sometimes does -not exceed a width of eight feet: small boats -still navigate it. We halted a day at Umritsir, -to view the rites of Seik holiness; and our -curiosity was amply gratified. In the evening -we were conducted by the chief men of the -city to the national temple. It stands in the -centre of a lake, and is a handsome building -covered with burnished gold. After making the -circuit of it, we entered, and made an offering -to the “Grinth Sahib,” or holy book, which -lay open before a priest, who fanned it with the -tail of a Tibet cow, to keep away impurity, and -to add to its consequence. When we were -seated, a Seik arose and addressed the assembled -multitude; he invoked Gooroo Govind Sing, and -every one joined hands;—he went on to say, -that all which the Seiks enjoyed on earth was -from the Gooroo’s bounty; and that the strangers -now present had come from a great distance, -and brought presents from the King of England, -to cement friendship, and now appeared in this -temple with an offering of 250 rupees. The -money was then placed on the Grinth, and a -universal shout of “Wagroojee ka futtih!” closed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_177">[177]</span> -the oration. We were then clad in Cashmere -shawls; and, before departing, I begged the -orator to declare our desire for a continuance of -friendship with the Seik nation, which brought a -second shout of “Wagroojee ka futtih!” “Khalsajee -ka futtih!” May the Seik religion -prosper! From the great temple, we were taken -to the Acali boonga, or house of the Immortals, -and made a similar offering. We were not -allowed to enter this spot, for the Acalis or -Nihungs are a wrong-headed set of fanatics, not -to be trusted. In reply to the offering, the priest -sent us some sugar. The Acalis are clothed in -turbans of blue cloth, which run into a peak: on -this they carry several round pieces of iron, -weapons of defence, which are used like the -quoit. These bigots are constantly molesting -the community by abuse and insult, or even violence; -a week does not pass in the Punjab without -a life being lost: but Runjeet suppresses -their excesses with a firm and determined hand, -though they form a portion of the establishment -in a religion of which he himself is a strict -observer. He has attached some of the greatest -offenders to his battalions, and banished others. -Our conductor, Desa Sing Majeetia, father of -our Mihmandar, a Seik of the confederacy, -and a kind old man, was very solicitous about -our safety, and led us by the hand, which he<span class="pagenum" id="Page_178">[178]</span> -grasped firmly, through the assembled crowd. -From the temple we made the tour of Umritsir, -which is a larger city than Lahore. This place -is the great emporium of commerce between -India and Cabool. The traders are chiefly -Hindoos, before whose door one wonders at -the utility of large blocks of red rock salt being -placed, till informed that they are for the use -of the sacred city cows, who lick and relish -them. In our way home we visited the Rambagh, -the favourite residence of the Maharaja -when at Umritsir. His passion for military works -also shows itself here, and he has surrounded a -pleasure garden by a massy mound of mud, which -he is now strengthening by a ditch.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Beas or -Hyphasis.</div> - -<p>At a distance of twenty-three miles from Umritsir, -we came on the Beas or Hyphasis of -Alexander. The country is varied by trees, but -not rich, and the soil is gravelly. On the 21st -we crossed the Beas, at Julalabad, where it was -swollen to a mile in width from rain. Its current -exceeded in rapidity five miles an hour; we -were nearly two hours in crossing, and landed -about two miles below the point from which we -started. The greatest depth was eighteen feet. -The boats used in this river are mere rafts with a -prow; they bend frightfully, and are very unsafe; -yet elephants, horses, cattle, and guns are conveyed -across on them. We passed in safety, but<span class="pagenum" id="Page_179">[179]</span> -an accident, which might have proved serious, -befel us in one of the small channels of this -river. It was about thirty yards wide, and -eighteen feet deep, and we attempted the passage -on an elephant. No sooner had the animal got -out of his depth, than he rolled over, and precipitated -Mr. Leckie and myself head-foremost -into the water, wheeling round at the same time -to gain the bank he had quitted; Dr. Murray -alone retained his seat: but we were not long in -regaining terra firma, without any other inconvenience -than a ducking. We did not again -attempt the passage on an elephant, but crossed -on inflated buffalo skins supporting a framework.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Kuppertulla. -Seik Chief.</div> - -<p>Our halting place was at Kuppertulla, ten -miles from the Beas, the estate of Futtih Sing -Aloowala, one of the Seik chiefs, who was present -with Lord Lake’s army in 1805, when encamped -in this vicinity. He is yet a young man. He -received us with great respect and kindness, and -sent his two sons to meet us as we approached. - - -<span class="sidenote">Fête.</span> - -He came himself in the evening on a visit, and -on the following day, when we returned it, he -gave us a grand fête in his garden house, which -was illuminated. The display of fireworks was -varied, and we viewed it with advantage from a -terrace. Futtih Sing is the person whom Sir -John Malcolm describes in his “Sketch of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_180">[180]</span> -Seiks” as requiring his dram, and years have -not diminished his taste for liquor. Immediately -we were seated he produced his bottle, drank -freely himself, and pressed it much upon us; -it was too potent for an Englishman, but he -assured us, that whatever quantity we drank, -it would never occasion thirst. We filled a -bumper to the health of the Sirdar and his -family, and were about to withdraw, when he -produced most expensive presents, which could -not in any way be refused; he gave me a string -of pearls, and some other jewels, with a sword, -a horse, and several shawls. Futtih Sing is an -uncouth looking person, but he has the manners -of a soldier. His income amounts to about four -lacs of rupees annually, and he lives up to it, -having a strong passion for house building. Besides -a board of works in two of his gardens, he -was now constructing a house in the English -style, but has sensibly added a suite of rooms -under ground for the hot season. When we left -Futtih Sing, he urgently requested that we would -deliver his sincere sentiments of regard to his old -friend Sir John Malcolm.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Doab of -the Sutlege.</div> - -<p>We made three marches from Kuppertulla to -Fulour, on the banks of the Sutlege, a distance of -thirty-six miles, passing the towns of Jullinder -and Jumsheer. The former place is large, and -was at one time inhabited by Afghans. It is<span class="pagenum" id="Page_181">[181]</span> -surrounded by a brick wall, and the streets are -paved with the same material. Jullinder gives -its name to the “Doab,” or country between -the Beas and Sutlege, while the other Doabs -are named by compound words, formed by contracting -the names of the rivers. Between the -Chenab and Behut, we have the Chenut; between -the Ravee and Chenab, the Reechna; and -between the Beas and Ravee, the Barree. From -Jullinder to the banks of the Sutlege, the country -is highly cultivated and well peopled. All the -villages are surrounded by mud walls, and many -of them have ditches to bespeak the once unsettled -state of this land. The houses are constructed -of wood, with flat roofs covered over by -mud, and have a hovel-like appearance.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Fulour.</div> - -<p>The town of Fulour, on the banks of the Sutlege, -is the frontier post of the Lahore Chief, -and here we left our escort and Seik friends, who -had accompanied us from Mooltan. We distributed -cloths to the commissioned and non-commissioned -officers, and a sum of 1000 rupees -among the men, which gratified all parties. -The Maharaja continued his munificence to the -last, and, before crossing the Sutlege, he had -sent us no less than 24,000 rupees in cash, -though we had declined to receive the sum of -700 rupees, which had been fixed for our daily -allowance after reaching Lahore.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_182">[182]</span></p> - -<div class="sidenote">Antiquities.</div> - -<p>Before I finally quit the Punjab, I must -not omit a few particulars regarding its antiquities, -which must ever attract attention. It -seems certain, that Alexander the Great visited -Lahore, and to this day the remains of a city -answering to Singala, with a lake in the vicinity, -are to be seen S.E. of the capital. The tope -of Manikyala, first described by Mr. Elphinstone, -and lately examined by M. Ventura, has -excited considerable interest in the East. The -French gentlemen were of opinion, that these remains -are of an older date than the expedition -of Alexander, for the coins have a figure not -unlike Neptune’s trident, which is to be seen on -the stones at Persepolis. In my progress through -the Punjab, I was not successful in procuring -a coin of Alexander, nor any other than the -Bactrian one which I have described; nor have -any of the French gentlemen, with all their opportunities, -been so fortunate. I am happy, however, -in being able to state the existence of two -other buildings like the “Tope” of Manikyala, -which have been lately discovered among the -mountains, westward of the Indus, in the country -of the Eusoofzyes. The opening of these may -throw light on the interesting subject of Punjab -antiquities.<a id="FNanchor_14" href="#Footnote_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a> By the natives of this country, -the most ancient place is considered to be Seeal<span class="pagenum" id="Page_183">[183]</span>cote, -which lies upwards of forty miles north of -Lahore. It is said to be mentioned in the Persian -Sikunder Namu.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Cross the -Sutlege.</div> - -<p>At noon, on the 26th of August, we left -Fulour and marched to Lodiana, crossing the -river Sutlege, or Hesudrus of antiquity. It is -yet called Shittoodur or the Hundred Rivers by -the natives, from the number of channels in -which it divides itself. Where we passed, its -breadth did not exceed 700 yards, though it had -been swollen two days before our arrival. The -greatest depth of soundings was eighteen feet, -but the average was twelve. It is a less rapid -river than the Beas. The waters of the Sutlege -are colder than those of any of the Punjab -rivers, probably from its great length of course, -and running so far among snowy mountains. -This river is variable in its channel, and often -deserts one bank for the other. The country -between it and the British Cantonment of Lodiana, -is intersected by nullas, one of which, -that runs past the camp, formed the bed of the -Sutlege fifty years ago. This river is generally -fordable after November. Lord Lake’s army -crossed it in 1805, two miles above Lodiana; -but the fords vary, and the watermen look -for them annually before people attempt to -cross, as there are many quicksands. When the -Beas falls into the Sutlege, the united stream,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_184">[184]</span> -called Garra, is no longer fordable. The boats -of the Sutlege are of the same description as -those on the Beas: there are seventeen of them -at the Fulour ferry. The country between the -Sutlege and Lodiana is very low, which I observed -to be a characteristic of the left bank of this -river, till it meets the mountains. One would -expect to find this depressed tract of ground -alluvial, but it is sandy.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Exiled -Kings of -Cabool.</div> - -<p>At Lodiana, we met two individuals, who -have exercised an influence on the Eastern -world, now pensioners of the British, the ex-Kings -of Cabool, Shah Zuman, and Shah Shooja-ool-Moolk. -The ceremonial of our introduction -to Shah Shooja corresponded nearly with that -described by Mr. Elphinstone; for, in his exile, -this fallen monarch has not relinquished the -forms of royalty. The officers of his court still -appear in the same fanciful caps, and on a signal -given in Turkish, (<i>ghachan</i>, begone,) the guards -run out of the presence, making a noise with -their high-heeled boots. The person of the Shah -himself has been so correctly described, that I -have little to say on that subject. In his misfortunes, -he retains the same dignity and prepossessing -demeanour as when king. We found -him seated on a chair in a shady part of his -garden, and stood during the interview. He -has become somewhat corpulent, and his ex<span class="pagenum" id="Page_185">[185]</span>pression -is melancholy; but he talked much, and -with great affability. He made many enquiries -regarding Sinde, and the countries on the Indus, -and said, that “he had rebuked the Ameers for -their suspicion and jealousy of our intentions in -coming to Lahore. Had I but my kingdom,” -continued he, “how glad should I be to see an -Englishman at Cabool, and to open the road -between Europe and India.” The Shah then -touched upon his own affairs, and spoke with -ardent expectations of being soon able to retrieve -his fortunes. In reply to one of his questions, -I informed him that he had many well-wishers in -Sinde. “Ah!” said he, “these sort of people -are as bad as enemies; they profess strong -friendship and allegiance, but they render me -no assistance. They forget that I have a -claim on them for two crores of rupees, the -arrears of tribute.”</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Reflections.</div> - -<p>Shah Shooja was plainly dressed in a tunic of -pink gauze, with a green velvet cap, something -like a coronet, from which a few emeralds were -suspended. There is much room for reflection -on the vicissitudes of human life while visiting -such a person. From what I learn, I do not -believe the Shah possesses sufficient energy to -seat himself on the throne of Cabool; and that -if he did regain it, he has not the tact to discharge -the duties of so difficult a situation.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_186">[186]</span></p> - -<div class="sidenote">Shah -Zuman.</div> - -<p>The brother of Shah Shooja, Shah Zuman, is -an object of great compassion, from his age, appearance, -and want of sight. We also visited -him, and found him seated in a hall with but one -attendant, who announced our being present, -when the Shah looked up and bade us “Welcome.” -He is stone blind, and cannot distinguish -day from night; he was as talkative as -his brother, and lamented that he could not pass -the remainder of his days in his native land, -where the heat was less oppressive.</p> - -<p>Shah Zuman has lately sunk into a zealot: he -passes the greater part of his time in listening -to the Koran and its commentaries. Poor man, -he is fortunate in deriving consolation from -any source. When taking leave, Shah Zuman -begged I would visit him before quitting Lodiana, -as he was pleased at meeting a stranger. -I did not fail to comply with his wishes, and saw -him alone. I had thought that his age and misfortunes -made him indifferent to all objects of -political interest; but he asked me, in a most -piteous manner, if I could not intercede with -the Governor-general in behalf of his brother, -and rescue him from his present exile. I assured -him of the sympathy of our government, -and said, that his brother should look to Sinde -and the other provinces of the Dooranee empire -for support; but he shook his head, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_187">[187]</span> -said the case was hopeless. After a short -silence, the Shah told me that he had inflammation -in the eyes, and begged I would look at -them. He has suffered from this ever since his -brother caused him to be blinded with a lancet. -As he has advanced in years, the organ seems to -have undergone a great change, and the black -part of the eye has almost disappeared. It is -impossible to look upon Shah Zuman without -feelings of the purest pity; and, while in his -presence, it is difficult to believe we behold that -king, whose name, in the end of last century, -shook Central Asia, and carried dread and terror -along with it throughout our Indian possessions. -Infirm, blind, and exiled, he now lives on the -bounty of the British Government.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Journey to -the Himalaya.</div> - -<p>After a ten days’ recreation at Lodiana, where -we mingled once more with our countrymen, we -prosecuted our journey to Simla, on the Himalaya -mountains, a distance of about 100 miles, which -we reached in the course of a few days. We here -beheld a scene of natural sublimity and beauty, -that far surpassed the glittering court which we -had lately left:—but my narrative must here -terminate. At Simla we had the honour of -meeting the Right Honourable Lord William -Bentinck, the Governor-general of India; and -his Lordship evinced his satisfaction at the result -of our mission, by entering at once into negoti<span class="pagenum" id="Page_188">[188]</span>ations -for laying open the navigation of the Indus -to the commerce of Britain, a measure of enlightened -policy, considered both commercially -and politically. I had the honour of receiving -the following acknowledgment of my endeavours -to elucidate the geography of that river, and the -condition of the princes and people who occupy -its banks.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Conclusion.</div> - -<div class="blockquot"> -<p class="right"> -“Delhi, 6 December, 1831.</p> -<p> -“Political Department.</p> -<p class="center"> -“TO LIEUT. ALEXANDER BURNES,<br /> -&c. &c. &c. -</p> - -<p>“Sir,</p> - -<p>“I am directed by the Right Honourable the -Governor-general to acknowledge the receipt -of your several letters, forwarding a memoir -on the Indus, and a narrative of your journey -to Lahore.</p> - -<p>“2. The first copy of your map of the Indus -has also just reached his Lordship, which completes -the information collected during your -mission to Lahore, in charge of the presents -from the late King of England to Maharaja -Runjeet Sing.</p> - -<p>“3. The Governor-general, having perused -and attentively considered all these documents, -desires me to convey to you his high approbation -of the manner in which you have ac<span class="pagenum" id="Page_189">[189]</span>quitted -yourself of the important duty assigned -to you, and his acknowledgments for the full -and satisfactory details furnished on all the -points in which it was the desire of government -to obtain information.</p> - -<p>“4. Your intercourse with the chiefs of Sinde, -and the other Sirdars and persons with whom -you were brought into contact in the course -of the voyage up the Indus, appears to the -Governor-general to have been conducted with -extreme prudence and discretion, so as to -have left a favourable impression on all classes, -and to have advanced every possible object, -immediate, as connected with your mission, -as well as prospective; for, while your communications -with them were calculated to -elicit full information as to their hopes and -wishes, you most judiciously avoided the assumption -of any political character that might -lead to the encouragement of false and extravagant -expectations, or involve you in any -of the passing intrigues. The whole of your -conduct and correspondence with the chiefs -of the countries you passed through in your -journey, has the Governor-general’s entire -and unqualified approbation.</p> - -<p>“5. In like manner, his Lordship considers -you to be entitled to commendation for the -extent of geographical and general information<span class="pagenum" id="Page_190">[190]</span> -collected in the voyage, and for the caution -used in procuring it, no less than for the perspicuous -and complete form in which the results -have been submitted for record and consideration. -The map prepared by you forms -an addition to the geography of India of the -first utility and importance, and cannot fail to -procure for your labours a high place in this -department of science.</p> - -<p>“6. The result of your voyage in the different -reports, memoirs, and maps above acknowledged, -will be brought without delay to -the notice of the authorities in England, under -whose orders the mission was, as you are aware, -undertaken. His Lordship doubts not that -they will unite with him in commending the -zeal, diligence, and intelligence displayed by -you in the execution of this service, and will -express their satisfaction at the manner in which -their views have been accomplished, and the -objects contemplated in the mission to Lahore -fully and completely attained.</p> - -<p class="sig"> -“I have the honour to be, &c.<br /> -<br /> -(Signed) “<span class="smcap">H. T. Prinsep</span>,<br /> -<br /> -“Secretary to the Governor-general.” -</p> -</div> - - -<div class="chapter p4"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_191">[191]</span></p> - -<p class="center">A<br /> -<span class="large">MEMOIR ON THE INDUS,</span><br /> -AND<br /> -ITS TRIBUTARY RIVERS<br /> -IN<br /> -<span class="large">THE PUNJAB.</span></p> - -</div> - - -<div class="chapter p4"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_193">[193]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="NOTICE">NOTICE<br /> - - -<span class="small">REGARDING</span><br /> - -THE MAP OF THE INDUS.</h2> - -</div> - - -<p>A new map of the Indus and Punjab Rivers from the -sea to Lahore seems to require some notice explanatory -of its construction, and I have to offer the following -observations on that <span class="lock">subject:—</span></p> - -<p>The River Indus, from the southern direction in which -it flows in its progress to the ocean, presents few difficulties -to the surveyor, since an observation of latitude -serves to fix the daily progress in the voyage, and its -comparatively straight course admits of easy delineation. -The map rests on a series of observations by the stars. -I should have preferred altitudes of the sun; but, with -a people so suspicious as we encountered, it was impossible -to use an instrument in daylight, and I should -have required to halt the fleet twice to procure equal -altitudes, since the sun was south of the equator during -the voyage. Many of the large places, such as Tatta, -Sehwun, Ooch, Mooltan, &c., where we necessarily -halted, have been laid down from a mean of eight or -ten stellar observations.</p> - -<p>The longitude and general delineations in the curvature -of the river rest on a minute protraction of its -turnings, observed with care every half hour, and some<span class="pagenum" id="Page_194">[194]</span>times -oftener, with the approved compass by Schmalcalder. -The attention given to this important portion -of the undertaking may be imagined, when I state -that my field books exhibit, on an average, twenty -bearings each day from sunrise to sunset. I was -early enabled to rate the progress of the boats through -the water, by timing them on a measured line along the -bank, and apportioned the distance to the hours and -minutes accordingly. We could advance, I found, by -tracking, or being pulled by men, at one mile and a half -an hour; by gentle and favourable breezes at two miles, -and by violent winds at three miles an hour; while any -great excess or deficiency was pointed out by the latitude -of the halting place.</p> - -<p>The base on which the work rests, is the towns of -Mandivee and Curachee: the one a seaport in Cutch, -and the point from which the mission started; the other -a harbour in sight of the western mouth of the Indus, -which we saw before entering the river. Mandivee -stands in the latitude of 22° 50´, and Curachee in 24° 56´ -north; while their longitudes are respectively in 69° 34´, -and 67° 19´ east, as fixed, in 1809, from the chronometers -of the Sinde mission by Captain Maxfield.</p> - -<p>Assuming these points as correct, the line of coast -intermediate to them has been laid down from my own -surveys in Cutch; while that of Sinde rests on observations -of the sun’s altitude at noon and the boats’ daily -progress, determined by heaving the log hourly. We -sailed only during the day, and at all times along shore, -often in a small boat, and were attended by six or eight -pilots, who had passed their lives in the navigation of -those parts.</p> - -<p>The great difference in the topography of the mouths -of the Indus, from what is shown in all other maps,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_195">[195]</span> -will no doubt arrest attention; but it is to be remarked, -that I call in question no former survey, since -the river has been hitherto laid down in this part of -its course from <i>native information</i>; and I can bear -testimony to the correctness of such portions of the -Indus as were actually traversed by the mission of -1809. From the jealousy of the Government of Sinde, -we had to pass up and down the coast no less than -five times, which gave ample opportunities to observe -it; and I have a strong fact to adduce in verification -of the chart as it now exists. On the third voyage -we ran down so low as the latitude of 20° 30´ N., -and were out of sight of land for six days. At noon, -on the last day (17th of March), while standing on a -due northerly course, I found our latitude to be 23° 50´, -or a few miles below that mouth of the river which I -had resolved to enter. I immediately desired the pilots -to steer a north-easterly course for the land. We closed -with it at sunset, a couple of miles above Hujamree, -the very mouth of the Indus I wished to make. At -daylight we had had no soundings in fifty fathoms, at -seven <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> we had bottom at forty-two fathoms, and at -eleven in thirty-four. By two in the afternoon we were -in twenty-one fathoms, and at dusk anchored in twelve -feet of water, off Reechel, having sighted the land at -half past four.</p> - -<p>In delineating the Delta of the Indus below Tatta, -I have not only had the advantage of sailing by a branch -to that city, but approached it on land by one route, -and returned by another. I also ascended the Pittee, or -western mouth of the Indus, for thirty miles. The -opposition experienced from the Sinde Government gave -rise to these variations of route: they long tried to impede -our progress; but the result of their vacillation<span class="pagenum" id="Page_196">[196]</span> -has happily added to our knowledge of their country, in -a degree which the most sanguine could not have anticipated. -In addition to my own track, I have added -that of the Sinde mission, from Curachee to Hydrabad, -and thence to Lueput in Cutch. My own surveys in -Cutch, which extend high up the Koree, or eastern -branch of the Indus, together with every information, -compel me to place the Goonee or Phurraun River -(which is the name for the Koree above Ali bunder), -in a more westerly longitude than in the maps hitherto -published. Sindree and Ali bunder lie north of Nurra -in Cutch, so that the river cannot extend so far into the -desert as has been represented.</p> - -<p>From Hydrabad upwards, and, I may add, in all parts -of the map, the different towns rest on the latitudes as determined -by the sextant. Most of them are in a higher -parallel than in the maps, but it was satisfactory to find, -on reaching Ooch, that the longitude of that place, as -taken from my own protraction, coincides pretty well with -that which has been assigned to it by Mr. Elphinstone’s -surveyors, who must have fixed it from Bhawulpoor. -This was not the case with Bukkur; but, as the latitude -of that place was twenty-two minutes below the true -parallel, I have reason to be satisfied with the result -above stated. I likewise found that the Indus receives -the Punjab rivers at Mittun, in the latitude of 28° 55´, -instead of 28° 20´ north, as given in the map of the -Cabool mission: but no one can examine that document -without acknowledging the unwearied zeal of its constructor, -and wondering that he erred so little when he -visited few of the places, and had his information from -such sources.</p> - -<p>The Punjab rivers have been laid down on the same -principle as the Indus. The Chenab (Acesines), which<span class="pagenum" id="Page_197">[197]</span> -has been erroneously styled Punjnud, after it has -gathered the other rivers, is very direct in its course; -but the Ravee (Hydräotes), on the other hand, is most -tortuous, and appears in its present shape after incredible -labour for twenty days spent in its navigation. The -latitude of its junction with the Chenab, and that of the -city of Lahore, which stands in 31° 35´ 30´´ north, and in -70° 20´ east longitude, have materially assisted me in the -task. I have also placed the confluence of the Jelum, or -Behut (Hydaspes), with the Chenab, twelve miles above -the latitude in which it has hitherto stood. The survey -eastward terminates on the left bank of the Sutledge -(Hesudrus), with the British cantonment of Lodiana, -which I find stands in 30° 55´ 30´´ north latitude. I -have used the longitude of the latest and best map, and -placed it in 75° 54´ east.</p> - -<p>With the Indus and Punjab Rivers, I have embodied -a survey of the Jaysulmeer country, which was finished -in the year 1830, when I visited Southern Rajpootana -with Lieut. James Holland. The province of Cutch, -with the configuration of the Run, rests on my own surveys -made in the years 1825, 1826, 1827, and 1828.<a id="FNanchor_15" href="#Footnote_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a></p> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_198">[198]</span></p> - - - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_199">[199]</span></p> -<p class="center x-large p4" id="MEMOIR_OF_THE_INDUS">MEMOIR OF THE INDUS.</p> -</div> - - - - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_Ia">CHAPTER I.<br /> - - -<span class="smaller">A GENERAL VIEW OF THE INDUS.</span></h2> - - -<div class="sidenote">Inland -navigation -to Lahore.</div> - -<p>There is an uninterrupted navigation from the -sea to Lahore. The distance, by the course of -the river, amounts to about a thousand British -miles: the following papers detail its practicability -with minuteness, but not more so, I trust, -than the great importance of the subject deserves. -They also describe the state of the countries -and people.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Depth of -water.</div> - -<p>The Indus, when joined by the Punjab rivers, -never shallows, in the dry season, to less than -fifteen feet, and seldom preserves so great a -breadth as half a mile. The Chenab, or Acesines, -has a medium depth of twelve feet, and the -Ravee, or Hydräotes, is about half the size of -that river. These are the minima of soundings -on the voyage; but the usual depth of the three -rivers cannot be rated at less than four, three, -and two fathoms. The soundings of each day’s -voyage are shown by the figures on the map.<a id="FNanchor_16" href="#Footnote_16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a></p> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_200">[200]</span></p> -<div class="sidenote">Boats.</div> - -<p>This extensive inland navigation, open as I -have stated it to be, can <i>only</i> be considered traversable -to the boats of the country, which are -flat bottomed, and do not draw more than four -feet of water, when heavily laden. The largest -of these carry about seventy-five tons English: -science and capital might improve the build of -these vessels; but in extending our commerce, -or in setting on foot a flotilla, the present -model would ever be found most convenient. -Vessels of a sharp build are liable to upset when -they run aground on the sand-banks. Steam-boats -could ply, if constructed after the manner -of the country, but no vessel with a keel could -be safely navigated.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Period of a -voyage to -Lahore.</div> - -<p>The voyage from the sea to Lahore occupied -exactly sixty days; but the season was most -favourable, as the south-westerly winds had set -in, while the stronger inundations of the periodical -swell had not commenced. We reached -Mooltan on the fortieth day, and the remaining -time was expended in navigating the Ravee, -which is a most crooked river. The boats sailed -from sunrise to sunset, and, when the wind was -unfavourable, were dragged by ropes through -the water.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Steam most -available -for the -Indus.</div> - -<p>There are no rocks or rapids to obstruct the -ascent, and the current does not exceed two -miles and a half an hour. Our daily progress<span class="pagenum" id="Page_201">[201]</span> -sometimes averaged twenty miles, by the course -of the river; for a vessel can be haled against the -current at the rate of one mile and a half an -hour. With light breezes we advanced two -miles an hour, and in strong gales we could -stem the river at the rate of three miles. Steam -would obviate the inconveniences of this slow -and tedious navigation; and I do not doubt but -Mooltan might be reached in ten, instead of -forty days. From that city a commercial communication -could best be opened with the -neighbouring countries.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Return -voyage.</div> - -<p>A boat may drop down from Lahore to the -sea in fifteen days, as follows:—to Mooltan in -six, to Bukkur in four, to Hydrabad in three, -and to the seaports in two. This is, of course, -the very quickest period of descent; and I may -add, that it has never been of late tried, for -there is no trade between Sinde and the Punjab -by water.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Political -obstacles to -trading on -the Indus.</div> - -<p>There are political obstacles to using the -Indus as a channel of commerce. The people -and princes are ignorant and barbarous: the -former plunder the trader, and the latter over-tax -the merchant, so that goods are sent by land, -and by circuitous routes: this absence of trade -arises from no physical obstacles, and is to be -chiefly traced to the erroneous policy of the -Sinde government. There are about 700 boats<span class="pagenum" id="Page_202">[202]</span> -between the sea and Lahore; and this number -suffices for ferrying, and all other purposes.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Military -importance -of the -Indus.</div> - -<p>The defence of the Indus, the grand boundary -of British India on the West, is nowise affected -by these trifling impediments, and we can command -its navigation without obstruction from -both Cutch and the Sutledge. The military -advantages of the Indus are great: it is navigable -for a fleet from Attok to the sea. The -insulated fortress of Bukkur is a most important -position.</p> - - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_203">[203]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAP_IIa">CHAP. II.<br /> - -<span class="smaller">A COMPARISON OF THE INDUS AND GANGES.</span></h2> -</div> - - - -<p>I have recorded with care and attention the -information which I have collected regarding -the Indus and its tributaries; yet the magnitude -of that river must be decided by a comparison -with the other great rivers of the world. -An European, in the East, may appropriately -narrow his field, and confine such a comparison -to its great twin river, the Ganges, which, -with the Indus, folds, as it were, in the embrace -our mighty empire of British India. At -this time, too, in a publication which has appeared -at Calcutta, by Mr. G. A. Prinsep, regarding -the introduction of steam navigation -into India, we have late and valuable matter, -both of an interesting and scientific nature, regarding -the peculiarities of the Ganges; which, -with the previous papers of Rennell and Colebrooke, -afford very precise information regarding -that river. I have ventured, therefore, -however incompetent, to lay down the observations -that have occurred to me regarding the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_204">[204]</span> -Indus, that the requisite comparison might be -instituted.</p> - -<p>The Ganges and Indus, rising in the same -mountains, traverse, with an unequal length of -course, the same latitudes: both rivers, though -nearly excluded from the tropics, are yet subject -to be annually flooded at a stated and the same -period. The quantity of water, therefore, which -these rivers respectively discharge, will determine -their relative size; and we shall afterwards -consider the slope or fall by which they descend -to the ocean. Sicriguli, on the Ganges, and -Tatta, on the Indus, seem to be the preferable -sites for drawing a comparison, since both places -are situated at a point <i>before</i> the rivers have -subdivided to form a delta, and <i>after</i> they have -each received the whole of their tributary -streams. The Indus certainly throws off two -branches above Tatta, the Fulailee and Pinyaree; -but they are only considerable rivers in -the rainy season.</p> - -<p>It appears, then, from Mr. G. A. Prinsep’s -essay, that in the month of April the Ganges -discharges, at Sicriguli, about 21,500 cubic feet -of water in a second. The average breadth of -the river at that place is given at 5000 feet, -which is also the velocity in a second of time; -while its average depth does not exceed three -feet. That in this result we form a pretty correct -estimate of the magnitude of the Ganges, is<span class="pagenum" id="Page_205">[205]</span> -further proved by the state of the river at Benares -in the same month (April), where, though -contracted to a breadth of 1400 feet, the depth -exceeds thirty-four feet, and the discharge -amounts to 20,000 cubic feet per second, which -differs in but a trifling degree from that at Sicriguli.</p> - -<p>In the middle of April, I found the Indus at -Tatta to have a breadth of 670 yards, and to be -running with a velocity of two miles and a half -an hour. It happens that the banks are steep -on both sides of the river in this part of its -course; so that the soundings, which amount to -fifteen feet, are regular from shore to shore, if -we except a few yards on either side, where the -water is still. This data would give a discharge -of 110,500 cubic feet per second; but by Buat’s -equations for the diminished velocity of the -stream near the bed, compared with that of the -surface, it would be decreased to 93,465 cubic -feet. Some further deduction should be made -for the diminished depth towards the shores; -and 80,000 cubic feet per second may be taken -as a fair rate of discharge of the Indus in the -month of April.<a id="FNanchor_17" href="#Footnote_17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a> It is a source of regret to me<span class="pagenum" id="Page_206">[206]</span> -that I am unable to extend my observations to -the river during the rainy season; but I had not -an opportunity of seeing it at that period, and -do not desire to place opinion in opposition to -fact. I may mention, however, that at Sehwun, -where the Indus is 500 yards wide, and thirty-six -feet deep, and sweeping with great velocity -the base of a rocky buttress that juts in upon -the stream, there is a mark on the precipice -which indicates a rise of twelve feet during the -inundation. This gives a depth of eight fathoms -to this part of the Indus in the rainy season. -If I could add the increase of width on as -sound data as I have given the perpendicular -rise or depth of water, we should be able to -determine the ratio between its discharge at the -opposite seasons; but I have only the vague -testimony of the natives to guide me, and dismiss -the subject.</p> - -<p>From what has been above stated, it will be -seen that the Indus, in discharging the enormous -volume, of 80,000 cubic feet of water in a -second, exceeds by <i>four times</i> the size of the -Ganges in the dry season, and nearly equals the -great American river, the Mississippi. The -much greater length of course in the Indus and -its tributaries, among towering and snowy mountains -near its source, that must always contribute -vast quantities of water, might have prepared us<span class="pagenum" id="Page_207">[207]</span> -for the result; and it is not extraordinary, when -we reflect on the wide area embraced by some -of these minor rivers, and the lofty and elevated -position from which they take their rise: the -Sutledge, in particular, flows from the sacred -Lake of Mansurour, in Tibet, 17,000 feet above -the sea. The Indus traverses, too, a comparatively -barren and deserted country, thinly -peopled and poorly cultivated; while the Ganges -expends its waters in irrigation, and blesses the -inhabitants of its banks with rich and exuberant -crops. The Indus, even in the season of inundation, -is confined to its bed by steeper and more -consistent banks than the other river; and, as I -have stated, seldom exceeds half a mile in width: -the Ganges, on the other hand, is described as an -inland sea in some parts of its course; so that, -at times, the one bank is scarcely visible from -the other,—a circumstance which must greatly -increase the evaporation. The arid and sandy -nature of the countries that border the Indus -soon swallow up the overflowing waters, and -make the river more speedily retire to its bed. -Moreover, the Ganges and its subsidiary rivers -derive their supply from the southern face of -the great Himalaya; while the Indus receives -the torrents of either side of that massy chain, -and is further swollen by the showers of Cabool -and the rains and snow of Chinese Tartary. Its<span class="pagenum" id="Page_208">[208]</span> -waters are augmented long before the rainy season -has arrived; and, when we look at the distant -source of the river, to what cause can we -attribute this early inundation but to melting -snow and ice?</p> - -<p>The slope on which the Indus descends to -the ocean would appear to be gentle, like that -of most great rivers. The average rate of its -current does not exceed two miles and a half an -hour; while the whole of the Punjab rivers, -which we navigated on the voyage at Lahore, -were found to be one full mile in excess of the -Indus. We readily account for this increased -velocity by their proximity to the mountains; -and it will serve as a guide in estimating the -fall of the river. The city of Lahore stands at -a distance of about 1000 British miles from the -sea, by the course of the river; and I am indebted -to Dr. J. G. Gerard, for a series of barometrical -observations, made some years ago -at Umritsir, a city about thirty miles eastward -of Lahore.</p> - -<table class="autotable" summary="barometrical observations"> -<tr> -<td class="tdl">The mean of eighteen of these observations gives us the height of the barometer at</td> -<td class="tdr">28,861·3</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl">The corresponding observations at Calcutta give</td> -<td class="tdr">29,711·5</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl i4">Making a difference of</td> -<td class="tdr total">850·2</td> -</tr> -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_209">[209]</span></p> - -<p>I am informed that the height of the instrument -registered in Calcutta may be twenty-five -feet above the level of the sea; and as the city -of Umritsir is about the same level as Lahore -(since both stand on the plains of the Punjab), -it must have an elevation of about 900 feet from -the sea.</p> - -<p>Having now stated the sum of our knowledge -regarding this subject, it remains to be considered -in what, and how great a proportion, -the slope is to be distributed among the rivers -from Lahore downwards. By a comparison with -the Ganges in Rennell’s work, and the late treatise -to which I have alluded, and assisted by -the same scientific gentleman, to whom I have -before expressed my obligations, we cannot give -a greater fall downwards from Mittun, where -the Indus receives the Punjab rivers, than six, -or perhaps five, inches per mile: nor can we -allow more than one fourth of 900 feet as the -height of that place above the level of the sea; -for the river has not increased here in velocity -of current, though we have neared the mountains. -Mittun is half way to Lahore, about 500 -miles from the sea, and nearly 220 feet above it. -The remaining 680 feet we may fairly apportion -to the Punjab rivers, from their greater rapidity -of course; which would give them a fall of twelve -inches per mile.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_210">[210]</span></p> - -<p>In these facts, we have additional proof of -the greater bulk of the Indus, as compared with -the Ganges; when at the lowest, it retains a -velocity of two and a half miles, with a medial -depth of fifteen feet, and though running on as -great, if not a greater slope than that river, never -empties itself in an equal degree, though much -more straight in its course. The Indus has -none of those ledges, which have been lately -discovered as a peculiarity of the Ganges, and -which are described in Mr. Prinsep’s work as -“making the bed of that river consist of a series -of pools, separated by shallows or sand-bars, at -the crossing of every reach.” Were the Indus -as scantily supplied with water as the Ganges, -we should, doubtless, find a similar state of -things; and, though the bed of the one river -would appear to far exceed in magnitude that -of the other, we find the Ganges partaking much -of the nature of a hill-torrent, overflowing at -one season, insignificant at another; while the -Indus rolls on throughout the year, in one -majestic body, to the Ocean.</p> - -<p>Before bringing these remarks on the Indus -to a close, I wish to add a few words regarding -the effect of the tide on the two rivers. In the -Ganges it runs considerably above Calcutta, -while no impression of it is perceptible in the -Indus twenty-five miles below Tatta, or about<span class="pagenum" id="Page_211">[211]</span> -seventy-five miles from the sea. We are either -to attribute this occurrence to the greater column -of water resisting the approach of the -sea, “whose vanquished tide, recoiling from the -shock, yields to the liquid weight;” or to the -descent of the delta of the one river being -greater than that of the other. The tide in the -Indus certainly runs off with incredible velocity, -which increases as we near the sea. It would -appear that the greatest mean rise of tide in -the Ganges is twelve feet: I found that of the -Indus to be only nine feet at full moon; but -I had, of course, no opportunity of determining -the <i>mean</i> rise of the tide as in the Ganges. -The tides of Western India are known to exceed -those in the Bay of Bengal, as the construction -of docks in Bombay testifies; and I -should be disposed to consider the rise at the -mouths of the Indus and Ganges to be much -the same. Both rivers, from the direction they -fall into the ocean, must be alike subject to an -extraordinary rise of tide from gales and winds; -and, with respect to the whole coast of Sinde, -the south-west monsoon blows so violently, even -in March, as to break the water at a depth of -three or four fathoms from the land, and long -before its depressed shore is visible to the -navigator.</p> - - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_212">[212]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAP_IIIa">CHAP. III.<br /> - -<span class="smaller">ON SINDE.</span></h2> -</div> - - - -<div class="sidenote">Sinde; its -extent.</div> - -<p>The first territory which we meet in ascending -the Indus is Sinde. The subversion of the -Cabool monarchy has greatly raised the political -importance of this country; and, while it has -freed the rulers of it from the payment of a -yearly tribute, has enabled them to extend -widely the limits of their once circumscribed -dominion. The principality is at present in the -zenith of its power, and comprises no less than -100,000 square miles, extending from the longitude -of 69° to 71° east, and from the latitude -of 23° to 29° north. The Indian Ocean washes -it on the south, and a diagonal line of 400 miles -is terminated a short distance below the junction -of the waters of the Punjab with the Indus. -The eastern portion of this fine territory is sterile -and unproductive; but the Indus fertilises its -banks by the periodical swell, and the waters -are conducted by canals far beyond the limits -of inundation.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Its chiefs -and revenue.</div> - -<p>The territory is divided among three different -branches of the Belooche tribe of Talpoor, who -are nearly independent of one another. The<span class="pagenum" id="Page_213">[213]</span> -principal family resides at Hydrabad, at the head -of which is Meer Moorad Ali Khan, and, since -the death of his three elder brothers, its sole representative.<a id="FNanchor_18" href="#Footnote_18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a> -The next family of importance -consists of the descendants of Meer Sohrab -Khan of Khyrpoor, whose son, Meer Roostum -Khan, is the reigning Ameer, and holds the fortress -of Bukkur, with the northern portion of -Sinde. The third family, descended of Meer -Thara Khan, at the head of which is Ali Morad, -resides at Meerpoor, and possesses the country -south-east of the capital. These three chiefs -are, properly speaking, the “Ameers of Sinde,” -a name which has been sometimes applied to -the members of the Hydrabad family. The -relative importance of the Ameers is pointed -out in their revenues: fifteen, ten, and five lacs -of rupees are the receipts of the different chiefs; -and their aggregate amount, thirty lacs of rupees, -shows the annual revenue of Sinde. The treasure, -it is said, amounts to about twenty millions -sterling, thirteen of which are in money, and the -remainder in jewels. The greater portion of this -cash lies deposited in the fort of Hydrabad, and -is divided between Moorad Ali and the wives of -his late brother, Kurm Ali.</p> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_214">[214]</span></p> -<div class="sidenote">Its power -and conquests.</div> - -<p>If we except the Seiks, the Ameers are more -powerful than any of the native princes to whose -dominions the territories of Sinde adjoin; for on -every side they have seized and maintained by -force the lands of their neighbours. To the -westward they hold Curachee as a conquest -from the chief of Lus, and are at present meditating -an extension of their boundary towards -Sonmeeanee, that they may keep the trade to -Candahar entirely within their own dominions. -To the north-west they seized the fort of Bukkur, -and the fertile territory of Shikarpoor, from the -Afghans; and, though it latterly belonged to -the powerful family of Barakzye (who now hold -Cabool, Candahar, and Peshawur), they have -hitherto engaged in annual but fruitless attempts -to retake it. A force of 6000 men were encamped -at Sewee, in the plains of Cutch Gundava, -when we passed Shikarpoor; but they were -unable to meet the Sindians in the field. On -the north-east the Ameers hold Subzulcote and -a large portion of the Daoodpootra country. -To the eastward, they captured the fortress of -Omercote, in 1813, from the Joodpoor Raja, -and have since pushed their troops far into that -Prince’s territories. If we exclude a portion of -that country which belongs to Jaysulmeer, they -now possess the whole country south of that -capital to the Runn of Cutch, Parkur included.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_215">[215]</span> -On the side of Cutch alone their progress has -been arrested by the British Government.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Its military -strength.</div> - -<p>The value of these conquests is greatly enhanced -by the trifling increase of expense which -they have entailed on the government; for, except -in the forts of the Desert, neither garrisons -nor troops are kept in pay to protect them, -while every attack endangering their security -has been hitherto successfully resisted. The -conduct of the Sindian in the field is brave; -and if we are to judge by results, he is superior -to his neighbours. They parried off an inroad -of one formidable army from Cabool by a retreat -to the Desert; and they defeated a second -with great slaughter in the vicinity of Shikarpoor. -Destitute as they are of discipline, and -unable, assuredly, to cope with regular troops, -we must admit that they excel in the art of war -as practised by themselves and the adjacent -nations. The Sindians, unlike other Asiatics, -pride themselves on being foot soldiers, and -they prefer the sword to the matchlock: their -artillery, formidable in number, is contemptible -in strength; their cavalry does not deserve the -name: horses are scarce, and of a very diminutive -breed. Various surmises have been made -regarding the strength of their army, but they -seem to me vague and indefinite; for every -native who has attained the years of manhood,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_216">[216]</span> -the mercantile classes alone excepted, becomes -a soldier by the constitution of the government; -and he derives his food and support in time of -peace from being pledged to give his services in -war. The host to be encountered is therefore -a rabble, and, as infantry, their swords would -avail them but little in modern warfare with an -European nation. On an attack from the British -Government, it is probable that the rulers of -Sinde, after a feeble resistance, would betake -themselves, with their riches, as of yore, to the -Desert, a retreat which would cost them, in this -instance, their country. They might foment for -a while conspiracy and rebellion, but the misfortunes -of the house of Talpoor would excite -compassion nowhere; for their government is -unpopular with their subjects, and dreaded, if -not hated, by the neighbouring nations.</p> - -<p>In the decline of other Mahommedan states, -the prosperity of Sinde has exalted it in the -eyes of foreigners.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Its external -policy.</div> - -<p>Of the princes bordering on Sinde, the -Ameers have most intercourse with Mehrab -Khan, the Brahooee chief of Kelat and Gundava, -who, like themselves, was formerly a tributary -of Cabool. By this alliance they have -skilfully interposed a courageous people together, -with a strong country between their territories -and that kingdom. The Afghans have endea<span class="pagenum" id="Page_217">[217]</span>voured -by bribes and promises to bring over the -Kelat chief to their interests, but he has not -been hitherto persuaded, and professes himself, -on all occasions, ready to assist the Ameers in -the protection of that part of their frontier adjoining -his dominions. He is related by marriage -to the Hydrabad Ameer; and the Brahooees -and Beloochees, considering themselves to be -originally descended from one stock, may be -therefore supposed to have one common interest. -With the Seiks at Lahore there is no cordiality, -and but little intercourse: they dread, and with -reason, Runjeet Sing’s power, and they are likewise -anxious to avoid giving offence to any of -the Cabool family by a show of friendship. -They owe the Maharaja no allegiance, nor has he -hitherto exacted any; but it has not escaped -their observation, that, of all the countries which -adjoin the Sindian dominions, there are none -from which an invasion can be so easily made -as from the Punjab, and it is very doubtful if -they could withstand an attack conducted by -the Seiks from that quarter. With the Rajpoot -chiefs on their eastern frontier their intercourse -is confined to the exchange of presents.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Its internal -state.</div> - -<p>The internal resources of Sinde are considerable; -nor must we look to the confined revenues -of her rulers for an index to that wealth, as in -their struggle for supremacy, the Ameers re<span class="pagenum" id="Page_218">[218]</span>ceived -many favours from their Belooch brethren, -which have been repaid by large and numerous -grants of land. By deteriorating the value of -what remained as their own share, they hope to -allay the cupidity of their neighbours. Trade and -agriculture languish in this land. The duties exacted -on goods forwarded by the Indus are so exorbitant -that there is no merchandise transported -by that river, and yet some of the manufactures -of Europe were to be purchased as cheap at -Shikarpoor as in Bombay. We are informed in -the Periplus of the Erythrean sea, that the traffic -of Sinde, when ruled by a powerful prince in the -second century of the Christian era, was most -extensive, and it is even said to have been considerable -so late as the reign of Aurungzebe. -The present rulers, possessing as they do such -unlimited authority over so wide a space, might -raise up a wealthy and commercial kingdom; -but the river Indus is badly situated for the -trader, and has no mouth like the Ganges accessible -to large ships: it is separated, too, from -India by an inhospitable tract; and a very -vigorous and energetic government could alone -protect commerce from being plundered by the -Boordees, Moozarees, and other hill tribes to -the westward. The Indus can only become a -channel for commerce when the chiefs possessing -it shall entertain more enlightened notions.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_219">[219]</span> -At present much of the fertile banks of this river, -so admirably adapted for agriculture, are only -used for pasture. Flocks and herds may be -driven from the invader; but the productions -of the soil can only be reaped in due season, -after care and attention. I now proceed to describe -the state of parties at present existing in -Sinde.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">The Hydrabad -family.</div> - -<p>The Hydrabad family, from having been -visited by several British missions, is better -known than any of the others. It includes the -southern portion, or what is called “Lower -Sinde.” Since its first establishment, in 1786, -it has undergone great change; and the reins of -government, from being wielded by four brothers, -have been left without bloodshed in the -hands of the last survivor. But the struggle for -dominion, so long warded off, has been bequeathed -to a numerous progeny; and on the -death of Moorad Ali Khan, who has attained -his sixtieth year, the evil consequences of the -founder of the family, raising his brothers to -an equality with himself, will be felt in a disputed -succession, and perhaps in civil war.<a id="FNanchor_19" href="#Footnote_19" class="fnanchor">[19]</a> One -Ameer died without issue; two of them left -sons who have now attained to manhood, and -the remaining Ameer has a family of five chil<span class="pagenum" id="Page_220">[220]</span>dren, -two of whom, Noor Mahommed and Nusseer -Khan, have for years past sat in durbar on -an equality with their cousins, Sobdar and Mahommed. -The different parties of these four -young princes form so many separate factions -in the court of Sinde, and each uses that influence -and policy which seems best suited to -advance its ends. Three of them, as the eldest -descendants of Ameers, might claim a right of -sharing as their fathers; but the second son of -Moorad Ali Khan has greater weight than any -of them, and the government of the Ameers of -Sinde could never, as it first stood, be considered -an hereditary one.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Meer Nusseer -Khan, -and Meer -Mahommed.</div> - -<p>Meer Nusseer Khan, to whose influence I have -just alluded, has been brought forward by his -father in the intercourse with the British, and -though fourth in rank below the Ameer himself: -he is the only person who, with his father, -addresses, on all occasions, and is addressed by, -the British Government. He openly professes -his attachment to the English, and informed me -by letters, and in two public durbars, that he -had been the means of procuring a passage for -the mission by the Indus to Lahore. Strange -as it may appear, it is said that his parent, otherwise -so jealous of the British, had strenuously -advised this line of procedure in his son; nor -was it disguised from me by many who had<span class="pagenum" id="Page_221">[221]</span> -opportunities of knowing, that the Prince acted -under the hope of assistance from our Government -when the hour of difficulty arrived. Nusseer -Khan maintains likewise a friendly intercourse -with several members of the fallen monarchy of -Cabool; and while we were at Hydrabad he -was despatching presents to Kamran at Herat. -This prince is a mild and engaging man, much -attached to the sports of the field. He has more -liberality than talent, and less prudence than -becomes one in the difficult part which he will -shortly have to perform. His success will depend -on the possession of his father’s wealth, -for money is the sinew of war; and the good -will of a venal people like the Sindians is not -to be retained by one who has spent his inheritance. -Noor Mahommed, the eldest brother of -Nusseer Khan, cultivates a closer friendship with -the Seiks than any other of the Talpoor family, -but he has neither partisans nor ability to achieve -an enterprise. He is, besides, addicted to the -grossest debauchery and the most odious vices; -but it is always to be remembered that he is the -eldest son of the reigning chief.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Mahommed -and -Sobdar.</div> - -<p>Meer Mahommed seems to hope, and not -without cause, that the services of his father, -Gholam Ali, will secure to him his rights. He -sent a messenger to me privately with an offer -to enter into a secret treaty with the British Go<span class="pagenum" id="Page_222">[222]</span>vernment, -which I declined for obvious reasons. -Sobdar is the rightful heir of Moorad Ali, being -the eldest son of the founder of the house. He -is no favourite with the Ameers; but, besides a -treasure of three millions sterling, and lands -which yield him three lacs of rupees annually, he -has many chiefs and partisans, who cling to him -from a remembrance of his father’s virtues. He -is, too, the ablest “scion of the stock,” and by -one rebellion has already asserted his rights. The -contest will probably lie between Sobdar and Nusseer -Khan; and if these two choose to govern as -those who preceded them, they may revive the -title and retain the power of the Ameers of -Sinde. At present, Meer Sobdar conceals his -plans and intentions from dread of his uncle; -and I may mention, as a specimen of Sindian -jealousy, that because I asked several times after -his health (according to the formality of this -court), seeing him seated on the right hand -of the Ameer, he was displaced at our second -interview to make room for Meer Nusseer Khan. -Should Moorad Ali attain “a good old age” -these opinions may prove fallacious, as the stage -will then be occupied by other competitors, who -are at present in their childhood, and from -among whom some one, more daring than his -relations, may meet with success and power.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">The Khyrpoor -family.</div> - -<p>The Khyrpoor chief, Meer Roostum Khan,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_223">[223]</span> -succeeded to his father, who was killed in 1830 -by a fall from a balcony. He is about fifty -years of age, and has five sons and two brothers. -This family is so numerous that there -are at present forty male members of it alive, -descended in a right line from Meer Sohrab -Khan. The chief maintains greater state than -the Hydrabad family. The territory is extensive -and productive, extending on the east bank -from a short distance above Sehwun to the -latitude of 28° 30´ north, and on the west bank -from Shikarpoor to within fifteen miles of Mittun, -on the verge of the Punjab, skirting to the -westward the mountain of Gendaree and the -plains of Cutch Gundava. There is little cordiality -existing between the Khyrpoor and Hydrabad -Ameers; and the breach has been -lately increased by some disputes relative to the -duties on opium, of which the former have -hitherto, and in vain, claimed a share. The -whole family expressed themselves cordially attached -to the British Government; and evinced, -by a continual succession of kindness, and even -munificence towards our party, that they were -sincere in their sentiments: none of them had -ever before seen an European. The treasure, -which amounts to three millions of money, is held -by Ali Moorad, the youngest brother of Meer -Roostum Khan, who having access to it, as the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_224">[224]</span> -favourite son, seized it on Sohrab’s death, and -still retains it. With this exception, the family -are united, and have no subject of dissension.</p> - -<p>The influence of the chief of Khyrpoor in -the affairs of Sinde is considerable. No undertaking -which has reference to the well-being -of the country is planned without his being -consulted; and hitherto no operations have -been carried on without his sanction. The refusal -of Meer Sohrab to enter into a war to -protect the Daoodpootras, and prevent encroachment -by the Seiks, defeated the plans of the -Ameers; for though the families are independent -of one another, they will only act when -united. Meer Roostum Khan is on much better -terms with his neighbours than the Hydrabad -family: he has agents from the Jaysulmeer and -Beecaneer Rajas, and from the Daoodpootras, -resident at his court, and has more intercourse -with the Seiks at Lahore. Meer Roostum is -prepared, however, on all occasions with his -troops to protect from invasion the boundaries -of Sinde as they at present exist; and has -readily furnished his quota of troops when the -Afghans have endeavoured to retake Shikarpoor -from the Hydrabad chief.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Meerpoor -family.</div> - -<p>The Meerpoor family, at the head of which is -Ali Moorad, has the least influence of the Sinde -Ameers. His immediate vicinity to Hydra<span class="pagenum" id="Page_225">[225]</span>bad, -and his less fertile and more circumscribed -boundary, have kept it more under the subjection -of the principal Ameer. The territory, -however, is exactly situated on the line of invasion -for an army from Cutch; and this Ameer -might render material service to any expedition. -The family is allied to Sobdar; and will, in all -probability, follow that prince’s fortunes on a -change of government.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Condition -of the -people.</div> - -<p>With reference to the condition of the people -in these different chiefships, much has been said -by various writers; and I would have willingly -passed it unnoticed, did not the means of observation, -which I enjoyed for so many months, -lead me to dissent from some of their opinions. -The Sindians are passionate and proud; and all -of them would be considered deceitful, in so far -as they praise and promise without sincerity. -Their passion proceeds from their savage ignorance, -and their pride from jealousy: their -deceit does not deceive each other, and, consequently, -ought not to deceive a stranger. I -found those in my employ most honest and faithful -servants, and passed from one extremity of -Sinde to another without any other guard than -the natives of the country, and without losing a -trifle, though our boats were boarded by crowds -daily. The Sindians are governed by their -princes, after the spirit of the country; and if<span class="pagenum" id="Page_226">[226]</span> -they could discern how much the advantages of -civil life, and the encouragement of industry -and art, rise superior to despotic barbarism, we -might look upon Sinde and her people in a different -light: but these rulers, who seized it by -the sword, must be excused for so maintaining -it. Where the principles of honour are not understood -(as has ever been too much the case in -Asiatic governments), men must be ruled by -fear; and it is only as the subject gets liberal -and civilised, that he can appreciate the advantages -of free institutions, and deserves such or -any share in the government of his country. -The inhabitants of Sinde are miserably poor, -both in the towns and villages; for when we -except a few Belooche chiefs, and some religious -families, who are attached to the court, there is -no distributed wealth in the land but among a -few Hindoo merchants. The people of that -tribe share no greater evils than their Mahommedan -brethren, and enjoy as much toleration -and happiness as in other Moslem governments. -If they were formerly treated with rigour, the -age of fanaticism has passed; and the Hindoo Dewans -of Sinde now transact the entire pecuniary -concerns of the state, while the Shroffs and Banians, -who are also Hindoos, pursue their vocations -without interruption, marry off their -children, when they attain the prescribed age,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_227">[227]</span> -to inherit, after their demise, the substance -which had been realised by commerce.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Its extent -of population.</div> - -<p>It is difficult to fix the population of Sinde, -and I bear in mind that I have seen the fairest -portion of the country in my progress through -it by the Indus. The large towns are neither -numerous nor extensive: Hydrabad, the capital, -has about 20,000 people, but it is exceeded by -Shikarpoor: Tatta, Currachee, and Khyrpoor -have 15,000 each; Meerpoor, Hala, Sehwun, -Larkhana, and Roree (with Sukkur), have each -about 10,000; Muttaree, Ulyartando, and Subzul, -with five or six others, have 5000 each; -which gives a population of nearly 200,000 -souls. The number of people in the delta -does not exceed 30,000; and the parts away -from the river, both to the east and west, are -thinly peopled, for pastoral countries are not -populous. The villages within reach of the -inundation are, however, large and numerous; -and, including the whole face of the country, -there cannot be less than a million of human -beings. One fourth of this number may be -Hindoos; and the greater portion of the Mahommedans -are descended from converts to that -religion.</p> - - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_228">[228]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAP_IVa">CHAP. IV.<br /> - -<span class="smaller">ON THE MOUTHS OF THE INDUS.</span></h2> -</div> - - - -<div class="sidenote">The Indus.</div> - -<p>The Indus, like the Nile and the Ganges, -reaches the ocean by many mouths, which, -diverging from the parent stream, form a delta -of rich alluvium. At a distance of sixty miles -from the sea, and about five miles below the -city of Tatta, this river divides into two branches. -The right arm is named Buggaur, and the left -Sata. This separation is as ancient as the days -of the Greeks, and mentioned by the historians -of Alexander the Great.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Two great -branches -forming its -delta.</div> - -<p>Of these two branches, the left one, or Sata, -pursues nearly a southern course to the ocean, -following the direction of the great river from -which it is supplied; while the right, or Buggaur, -deviates at once from the general track of -the Indus, and reaches the sea, by a westerly -course, almost at right angles to its twin river.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">The Sata.</div> - -<p>The eastern branch, or Sata, is the larger of -the two, and below the point of division is one -thousand yards wide: it now affords egress to -the principal body of the water; and though it -divides and subdivides itself into numerous channels, -and precipitates its water into the sea by no<span class="pagenum" id="Page_229">[229]</span> -less than seven mouths within the space of thirty-five -miles, yet such is the violence of the stream, -that it throws up sand banks or bars, and only -one of this many-mouthed arm is ever entered -by vessels of fifty tons. The water sent out to -sea from them during the swell of the river is -fresh for four miles; and the Gora, or largest -mouth, has cast up a dangerous sand bank, -which projects directly from the land for fifteen -miles.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">The Buggaur.</div> - -<p>The western arm, which is called Buggaur, -on the other hand, flows into one stream past -Peer Putta, Bohaur, and Darajee, to within five -or six miles of the sea, when it divides into two -navigable branches, the Pittee and Pieteanee, -which fall into the ocean about twenty-five miles -apart from each other. These are considered the -two great mouths of the Indus, and were frequented -till lately by the largest native boats. -They are yet accessible, but for three years -past the channel of the Buggaur has been deserted -by the river; and though it contains -two fathoms of water as high as Darajee, it -shallows above that town. In the dry season -it is in some places but knee-deep, and its bed, -which continues nearly half a mile broad, has -at that time but a breadth of 100 yards. The -name of Buggaur signifies “destroy.” While<span class="pagenum" id="Page_230">[230]</span> -this alteration has diverted the trade from Darajee -to the banks of the Sata, the country near -the Buggaur is as rich as it was previously; -and though the branch itself is not navigated, -yet there are frequently two fathoms in its bed, -and every where a sufficiency of water for flat-bottomed -boats. During the swell it is a fine -river, and will in all probability shortly regain -its former pre-eminence.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Delta; its -size.</div> - -<p>The land embraced by both these arms of the -delta extends, at the junction of the rivers with -the sea, to about seventy British miles; and so -much, correctly speaking, is the existing delta -of this river. The direction of the sea-coast -along this line of rivers is north-north-west.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Delta may -be considered -longer.</div> - -<p>But the Indus covers with its waters a wider -space than that now described, and has two -other mouths still further to the eastward than -those thrown out by the Sata, the Seer, and -Koree, the latter the boundary line which divides -Cutch from Sinde, though the rulers of that -country have diverted the waters of both these -branches by canals for irrigation, so that none -of them reach the sea. With the addition -of these forsaken branches, the Indus presents -a face of about 125 British miles to the sea, -which it may be said to enter by eleven -mouths. The latitude of the most western -embouchure is about 24° 40´ N., that of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_231">[231]</span> -eastern below 28° 30´, so that in actual latitude -there is an extent of about eighty statute miles.<a id="FNanchor_20" href="#Footnote_20" class="fnanchor">[20]</a></p> - -<div class="sidenote">Dangers of -navigating -the delta.</div> - -<p>The inconstancy of the Indus through the -delta is proverbial, and there is here both difficulty -and danger in its navigation. It has in -these days, among the people of Sinde, as bad -a character as has been left to it by the Greek -historians. The water is cast with such impetuosity -from one bank to another, that the -soil is constantly falling in upon the river; -and huge masses of clay hourly tumble into -the stream, often with a tremendous crash. -In some places the water, when resisted by a -firm bank, forms eddies and gulfs of great -depth, which contain a kind of whirlpool, in -which the vessels heel round, and require every -care to prevent accident. The current in such -places is really terrific, and in a high wind the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_232">[232]</span> -waves dash as in the ocean. To avoid these -eddies, and the rotten parts of the bank, seemed -the chief objects of care in the boatmen.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Peculiarities -of -navigation.</div> - -<p>It is a fact worthy of record, that those mouths -of the Indus, which are least favoured by the -fresh water, are most accessible to large vessels -from the sea; for they are more free from sand -banks, which the river water, rushing with violence, -never fails to raise. Thus the Buggaur, -which I have just represented as full of shallows, -has a deep and clear stream below Darajee to -the sea. The Hoogly branch of the Ganges is, -I believe, navigable from a similar cause.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Individual -mouths.</div> - -<p>I shall now proceed to describe the several -mouths with their harbours, depth of water, together -with such other facts as have fallen under -notice.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">The Pittee.</div> - -<p>Beginning from the westward, we have the -Pittee mouth, an embouchure of the Buggaur, -that falls into what may be called the bay of -Curachee. It has no bar; but a large sand -bank, together with an island outside, prevent -a direct passage into it from the sea, and -narrow the channel to about half a mile at its -mouth. At low water its width is even less -than 500 yards: proceeding upwards, it contracts -to 160, but the general width is 300. At -the shallowest part of the Pittee there was a -depth of nine feet at low water, and the tide<span class="pagenum" id="Page_233">[233]</span> -rose nine feet more at full moon. At high -water there is every where a depth of two -fathoms to Darajee, and more frequently five -and six, sometimes seven and eight. Where -two branches meet, the water is invariably -deep. At a distance of six miles up the -Pittee there is a rock stretching across the -river: it has nine feet of water on it at low -tide. The general course of the Pittee for the -last thirty miles is W.N.W., but it enters the -sea by a channel due south. The Pittee is -exceedingly crooked, and consists of a succession -of short turnings, in the most opposite -directions; even from south to north the water -from one angle is thrust upon another, which -leaves this river alternately deep on both sides. -Where the banks are steep, there will the channel -be found; and, again, where they gradually -meet the water, shallows invariably exist. This, -however, may be remarked of all rivers which -flow over a flat country. There is no fresh -water in the Pittee nearer than thirty miles from -the sea: the brushwood on its banks is very -dense, and for fifteen miles up presses close in -upon the river. We navigated this branch to -that extent, and crossed it in two places higher -up, at Darajee and Bohaur, where it had two -fathoms’ water.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Pieteeanee.</div> - -<p>The Pieteeanee quits the Pittee about twenty<span class="pagenum" id="Page_234">[234]</span> -miles from the sea, which it enters below the -latitude of 24° 20´. It is narrower than the -Pittee, and in every respect an inferior branch; -for there are sand banks in its mouth, which -overlap each other, and render the navigation -intricate and dangerous. We found it to have -a depth of six feet on its bar at low tide, and -fifteen at full; but when once in its channel, -there were three fathoms’ water. At its mouth -it is but 300 yards wide, and higher up it contracts -even to fifty; but it has the same depth -of water every where till it joins the Pittee. -The Pieteeanee runs north-easterly into the -land, and from its shorter course the tide makes -sooner than in the Pittee, which presented the -singular circumstance of one branch running -up, and the other down, at the same time.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Inferior -creeks.</div> - -<p>Connected with these two mouths of the -Indus, there are three inferior creeks, called -Koodee, Khow, and Dubboo. The two first join -the Pittee; and the Koodee was in former years -one of the great entrances to Darajee, but its -place has been usurped by the Pieteeanee, and -it is now choked. Dubboo is only another -entrance to the Pieteeanee.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Indus navigated -by -flat-bottomed -boats.</div> - -<p>However accessible these two branches have -been found, neither of them are navigated by -any other than flat-bottomed boats, which carry -the entire cargo to and from the mouth of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_235">[235]</span> -river, inside which the sea vessels anchor. It -was an unheard-of occurrence for boats like the -four that conveyed us (none of them twenty-five -tons in burden) to ascend so high up the -Pittee as we did, a distance of thirty miles; -but assuredly we encountered no obstacles.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Jooa, -Reechel, -and Hujamree.</div> - -<p>Of the seven mouths that give egress to the -waters of the Sata, or eastern branch, below -Tatta, the Jooa, Reechel, and Hujamree, lie -within ten miles of each other. One of these -mouths has been at all times more or less navigable; -and while they are the estuaries of the -waters of the Sata, still a portion of those thrown -off by the Buggaur, or other grand arm, reach -them by inferior creeks during the swell, forming -an admirable inland navigation through all parts -of the delta. The mouths of the Jooa and -Reechel are choked; but the latter was at a late -period the most frequented of all the branches of -the Indus. It was formerly marked by a minaret, -which has, I suppose, fallen down, as this -fact is particularly mentioned by our early navigators. -There is yet a village, near its mouth, -called Moonara, or minaret. The Hujamree is -now accessible to boats of fifty tons. Its port -is Vikkur, twenty-five miles from the sea, which, -with Shah-bunder (still further eastward), seems -alternately to share the trade of the delta. This<span class="pagenum" id="Page_236">[236]</span> -season Shah-bunder is scarcely to be approached, -and the next season Vikkur will perhaps be -deserted. We entered the Indus by the Hujamree -mouth, and disembarked at Vikkur. At -the bar we had fifteen feet of water at high tide, -and a depth of four fathoms all the way to -Vikkur, even when the tide was out.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Khedywaree.</div> - -<p>The Khedywaree is the next mouth eastward -of Hujamree, with which it is connected by -small creeks; it is shallow, and not much frequented -by boats but to cut firewood.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Gora, or -Wanyanee.</div> - -<p>Of the remaining mouths of the left arm, the -next is Gora, the largest of all the mouths. It -derives its supply of water direct from the Sata, -which near the sea feeds numerous small creeks, -and is named Wanyanee. From the Hujamree -we passed by a narrow creek into this mouth of the -Indus. The Gora (or, as it is also called towards -the sea, Wanyanee,) has every where a depth of -four fathoms. It is not more than 500 yards -wide, and runs with great velocity. Its course -is somewhat crooked, but it pursues a southerly -line to the sea, and passes by a fine village on -the left bank called Kelaun. Though the Gora -possesses such facilities for navigation, yet it is -not to be entered from the sea by the smallest -boats, from a dangerous sand bank, to which I -have before alluded. It is clear that such sand<span class="pagenum" id="Page_237">[237]</span> -banks are thrown up by the impetuosity of the -stream; for the Reechel, till it was deserted by -the great body of the Indus, had as large a bar -as is now opposite Gora, which has entirely disappeared -with the absence of the fresh water. -This branch of the Indus in the last century was -open to large boats; and a square-rigged vessel -of 70 tons now lies near it on dry land, where it -has been left by the caprice of the river.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Khaeer and -Mull.</div> - -<p>Below the Gora we have the Khaeer and Mull, -mouths communicating with it. All three disembogue -within twelve miles of each other. -The Khaeer, like the Gora, is unnavigable. The -Mull is safe for boats of 25 tons; and being -the only entrance now open to Shah-bunder, is -therefore frequented. The boats anchor in an -artificial creek four miles up it, called Lipta, -and await the flat-bottomed craft from the port, -distant about twenty miles north-east.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">The Seer.</div> - -<p>About five-and-twenty miles below Mull we -meet the Seer mouth of the Indus, but have -salt instead of fresh water. There are several -minor creeks that intervene, but they do not -form any communication. The Seer is one of -the destroyed branches of the Indus. A dam -has been thrown across it below Mughribee, fifty -miles from its mouth; and though it ceases to -be a running stream on that account, the superfluity -of fresh water from above forces for itself<span class="pagenum" id="Page_238">[238]</span> -a passage by small creeks till it regains the Seer, -which thus contains fresh water twenty miles -from its mouth, though it is but a creek of the -sea. The river immediately below Mughribee -is named Goongra; higher up it is called -Pinyaree, and leaves the parent stream between -Hydrabad and Tatta. The Seer is accessible -to boats of 150 candies (38 tons) to a place -called Gunda, where they load from the flat-bottomed -boats of Mughribee. With some extra -labour, these same boats could reach the dam -of Mughribee; and from that town the inland -navigation for flat-bottomed boats is uninterrupted -to the main Indus, though it becomes -more difficult in the dry season. The dam of -Mughribee is forty feet broad. The Seer at -its mouth is about two miles wide, but it gets -very narrow in ascending; within, it has a depth -of four and six fathoms, but below Gunda there -is a sand bank with but one fathom water on it. -There is a considerable trade carried on from -this branch of the Indus with the neighbouring -countries of Cutch and Kattywar; for rice, the -staple of Sinde, is to be had in abundance at -Mughribee.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">The Koree, -or eastern -mouth.</div> - -<p>The Koree, or eastern branch of the Indus, -completes the eleven mouths of the river. It -once discharged a portion of the waters of the -Fulailee that passes Hydrabad, as also of a branch<span class="pagenum" id="Page_239">[239]</span> -that quits the Indus near Bukkur, and traverses -the desert <i>during the swell</i>; but it has been -closed against both these since the year 1762, -when the Sindians threw up bunds, or dams, to -inflict injury on their rivals, the inhabitants of -Cutch.<a id="FNanchor_21" href="#Footnote_21" class="fnanchor">[21]</a> Of all the mouths of the Indus the -Koree gives the grandest notion of a mighty -river. A little below Lucput it opens like a -funnel, and at Cotasir is about seven miles wide, -and continues to increase till the coasts of Cutch -and Sinde are not visible from one another. -When the water here was fresh it must have -been a noble stream. The depth of this arm -of the sea (for it can be called by no other -name) is considerable. We had twenty feet of -water as high as Cotasir, and it continues equally -deep to Busta, which is but eight miles from -Lucput. A Company’s cruiser once ascended -as high as Cotasir; but it is considered dangerous, -for there is an extensive sand bank at -the mouth called Adheearee, on which the water -at low tide is only knee deep. There are also -several sand banks between it and Cotasir, and -a large one opposite that place. The Koree<span class="pagenum" id="Page_240">[240]</span> -does not communicate with the Seer or any -other mouth of the Indus, but it sends off a -back water to Cutch, and affords a safe inland -navigation to small craft from Lucput to Juckow -on the Indian Ocean, at the mouth of the gulf -of Cutch.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Advantages -of -these to -Sinde.</div> - -<p>The Sindians, it will therefore appear, have -choked both eastern branches. There being no -communication by the Indus and the Koree, the -trade of Sinde is not exported by it. It finds a -vent by the Seer; but this has not given rise to -any new town being built on its banks. Such, -indeed, is the humidity, that this country is only -tenable for a part of the year.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">The sea -outside the -Indus; its -dangers.</div> - -<p>We here complete the enumeration and description -of the mouths of the Indus. Out -from them the sea is shallow; but the soundings -are regular, and a vessel will have from twelve -to fifteen feet of water a mile and a half off -shore. The Gora bank presents the only difficulty -to the navigation of these coasts, from -Mandivee, in Cutch, to Curachee. Breakers are -to be traced along it for twelve miles. The -sailors clear it by stretching at once out of sight -of land, and keeping in twelve fathoms’ water -till the danger is over: they even state that a -vessel of twenty-five tons would be wrecked on -a course where the depth is ten fathoms. This<span class="pagenum" id="Page_241">[241]</span> -bank is much resorted to by fishermen; and it -may generally be distinguished by their boats -and nets.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Coast of -Sinde -exposed.</div> - -<p>The coast of Sinde, from its entire exposure -to the Indian ocean, is so little protected against -storms, that the navigation is much sooner suspended -than in the neighbouring countries. -Few vessels approach it after March; for the -south-west monsoon, which then partially commences, -so raises the sea that the waves break -in three and four fathoms water, while the coast -is not discernible from its lowness till close upon -it, and there is a great risk of missing the port, -and no shelter at hand, in such an event.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Tides of -the Indus.</div> - -<p>The tides rise in the mouths of the Indus -about nine feet at full moon: they flow and ebb -with great violence, particularly near the sea, -where they flood and abandon the banks with -equal and incredible velocity. It is dangerous -to drop the anchor but at low water, as the channel -is frequently obscured, and the vessel may be -left dry. The tides in the Indus are only perceptible -seventy-five miles from the sea, that is, -about twenty-five miles below Tatta.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Country at -the mouths -of the Indus.</div> - -<p>There is not a more miserable country in the -world than the low tract at the mouths of the -Indus. The tide overflows their banks, and -recedes to leave a desert dreary waste, overgrown -with shrubs, but without a single tree.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_242">[242]</span> -If a vessel be unfortunately cast on this coast, -she is buried in two tides; and the greatest despatch -can hardly save a cargo. We had proof -of this in an unfortunate boat which stranded -near us; and, to add to the miseries of this -land, the rulers of it, by a barbarous law, demand -every thing which is cast on shore, and -confiscate any vessel which, from stress of weather, -may enter their ports.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Curachee, -why preferred -to -the Indus.</div> - -<p>The principal sea-port of Sinde is Curachee, -which appears remarkable, when its rulers are in -possession of all the mouths of the Indus; but -it is easily explained. Curachee is only fourteen -miles from the Pittee, or western mouth of the -Indus; and there is less labour in shipping and -unshipping goods at it, than to carry them by -the river from Darajee or Shahbunder in flat-bottomed -boats. Curachee can also throw its -imports into the peopled part of Sinde without -difficulty, by following a frequented and good -level road to Tatta. The unshipment, too, at -that port, supersedes the necessity of shifting -the cargo into flat-bottomed boats; and the -actual distance between Curachee and Tatta -(about sixty miles) is half exceeded by following -the windings of the stream to any of the harbours -in the Delta. As the ports in the river -and Curachee are both subject to Sinde, it is conclusive -that that sea-port has advantages over<span class="pagenum" id="Page_243">[243]</span> -those of the river, which have led to their being -forsaken by the navigator. In former years, -before Curachee was seized by the Sindians, the -exports from the Delta were more considerable; -since then all articles of value are brought to -Curachee by land, and there shipped. The -opium from Marwar is never put into a boat -but to cross the Indus on its way to Curachee.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">The sea -boats of -Sinde.</div> - -<p>The boats of the Indus claim attention. Including -Curachee and all the ports of the -country, there are not, perhaps, a hundred -dingees, or sea vessels, belonging to the dominions -of the Ameer. These boats are of a -peculiar construction—of a sharp build, with a -very lofty poop; the large ones never ascend -the rivers, and are principally used at the port -of Curachee, and sail from thence to Muscat, -Bombay, and the Malabar coast: they carry no -guns. A smaller dingee is used at the mouths -of the Indus, chiefly for fishing: they are good -sea-boats, and sail very quickly. The fisheries -in the mouths of the Indus being extensive, -and forming a source of commerce, these craft -abound.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Flat-bottomed -boats.</div> - -<p>The traffic on the Indus, commencing from -its very mouth, is carried on in flat-bottomed -boats, called doondees. They are large and -unwieldy, and never exceed 100 kurwars (fifty -tons) in burthen, and, when laden, draw only<span class="pagenum" id="Page_244">[244]</span> -four feet of water. They have two masts, the -larger in front; they hoist their sails behind -them, to prevent accident, by giving less play -to the canvass. The foresail is of a lateen -shape; that aft is square, and very large. With -these set, they can stem the current, in a good -wind, at the rate of three miles an hour. We -came from the sea to Hydrabad in five days. -When the wind fails, these boats are dragged, -or pushed up by spars against the stream. With -ropes, they can be pulled a mile and a half in -the hour; and they attach these to the mast-head, -to have a better purchase. The helm is -shaped like the letter P, and in the larger vessels -is managed by ropes from each side; at a distance, -it seems quite detached from the doondee. -These vessels are also furnished with a long -supple oar astern, which they work backwards -and forwards, the steersman moving with it on -an elevated frame. It is possible to impel the -doondee with this oar alone, and nothing else is -used in crossing the different ferries. When -coming down with the stream, this oar, too, is -again in requisition, they work it to and fro, -to keep the broadside of the vessel to the current. -In descending the river, the masts are -invariably struck, and the helm even is stowed -away. I can compare these boats to nothing so -correctly as the drawing of Chinese junks; the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_245">[245]</span> -largest are about eighty feet long and eighteen -broad, shaped something like a ship high astern -and low in front, with the hull slanted off at -both ends, so as to present less resistance to -the water. They are floating houses; for the -people who navigate them take their families, -and even their herds and fowls, along with -them. All the boats on the river, large and -small, are of the above description. In navigating -the doondees, the boatmen always choose -the shallow water, and avoid the rapids of the -river.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Indus -navigable -for steam -vessels.</div> - -<p>From the account of the River Indus at its -mouths, which is above given, it will appear -that it would be accessible to steam-boats of a -certain size and build; but I am thoroughly -satisfied that no boat <i>with a keel</i> could ever -navigate this river with any hopes of safety. -The flat-bottomed boats are constantly grounding, -but they sustain no injury; while boats -differently constructed would be at once upset -by the violence of the stream, and destroyed. It -is not to be doubted, however, that steam-vessels -could be adapted to this navigation as well -as the existing boats on the river; and had -not coal been found both at the head and mouth -of the Indus, fuel could be supplied from the -great abundance of wood which the banks of this<span class="pagenum" id="Page_246">[246]</span> -river every where furnish. The Americans use -wood for this purpose; and the supply of brushwood -on the Lower Indus is abundant.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Military -remarks on -the Indus.</div> - -<p>I make allusion to the navigation of this river -by steam, because I am aware it is an object -of interest; but, in conducting any expedition -against Sinde, I feel satisfied, from -what I have seen, that there would be little -advantage, in a military point of view, derived -from the river Indus below Tatta. It would -be impracticable to march a force through the -Delta, from the number of rivers; and it would -be equally impossible to embark it in flat-bottomed -boats, for there are not 100 of them -below Hydrabad; few are of burthen, and the -very largest would not contain a company of -infantry. The vulnerable point of Sinde is Curachee, -and a landing might be effected on either -side of the town without difficulty. The Creek -of Gisry, to the south-east, has been pointed -out<a id="FNanchor_22" href="#Footnote_22" class="fnanchor">[22]</a> as a favourable place, and I can add my -concurrence in the opinion; but a force would -easily effect its disembarkation anywhere in -that neighbourhood. For a land expedition, -the route from Cutch to Ballyaree, by the -Thurr, seems to me the most feasible. While I -represent the mouths of the Indus as unfavour<span class="pagenum" id="Page_247">[247]</span>able -for conducting an attack from India on -Sinde, I do not wish to be understood as hazarding -at this time any opinion on like obstacles -presenting themselves in an attack from its banks -on India.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Supplies of -the Delta.</div> - -<p>With regard to the supplies which an army is -to expect in the lower parts of Sinde, my report -will be more favourable. Grain, that is, rice -and bajree, will be found in great abundance. -Horned cattle and sheep are numerous. The -pasturage is not good, but near the sea abundant. -Almost all the villages are mere hamlets; -for Darajee, Lahory, and Shahbunder, which -figure on the map as places of importance, have -none of them a population of 2000 souls. The -two first, indeed, have not that between them; -and there are not ten other places that have a -hundred souls below Tatta. Camels would be -found in great abundance, as also horses: these -are of a small and diminutive breed, but the camels -are very superior. From the number of buffaloes, -milk and ghee are to be had in great abundance, -and all the rivers abound in fish. The country -is peopled to the sea-shore; but the inhabitants -are thinly scattered over its surface in temporary -villages; and near many of the mouths experience -great inconvenience from the want of -fresh water, which they bring from a distance -for themselves and cattle: the banks of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_248">[248]</span> -Gora form the only exception. The people -consist chiefly of erratic and pastoral tribes; -for though the Indus presents such facilities to -the cultivator, there is not a fourth of the cultivable -land below Tatta brought under tillage; -it lies neglected and overgrown with tamarisk.</p> - - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_249">[249]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAP_V">CHAP. V.<br /> - -<span class="smaller">ON THE DELTA OF THE INDUS.</span></h2> -</div> - - - -<div class="sidenote">Delta of -the Indus.</div> - -<p>Herodotus said of Egypt, that it was the -“gift of the Nile;” the same may be said of -the country at the mouths of the Indus. A -section of the banks of the river shows a continued -succession of earth, clay and sand in -layers, parallel to one another; and deposited, -without doubt, at different periods. It would -be perhaps hazarding too much to state, that -the whole of the Delta has been gradually acquired -from the sea; but it is clear that the -land must have greatly encroached on the ocean. -Nothing is more corroborative of this fact than -the shallowness of the sea out from the mouths -of the Indus, and the clayey bottom and tinge -of the water.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Inundation.</div> - -<p>The country from Tatta, which stands at the -head of the Delta, to the sea downwards, is in -most parts influenced by the periodical swell of -the Indus: the great branches of this river are -of themselves so numerous, and throw off such -an incredible number of arms, that the inundation -is general; and in those places which are<span class="pagenum" id="Page_250">[250]</span> -denied this advantage by fortuitous circumstances, -artificial drains, about four feet wide -and three deep, conduct the waters through the -fields. The swell commences in the latter end -of April, and continues to increase till July, disappearing -altogether in September: a northerly -wind is supposed to accelerate it. It begins -with the melting of the snow in the Himalaya -mountains, before the rainy season. At other -times the land is irrigated with the Persian -wheel, which is turned by a camel or bullock, -and in general use every where. One eighth of -the Delta may be occupied by beds of rivers and -inferior streams. Ten miles from the sea, the -country is so thickly covered with furze and -bushes, that it is incapable of being brought -under tillage. Close upon the sea coast, however, -there is abundance of green forage, which -furnishes pasture to large herds of buffaloes. -These animals reward the herdsmen with an -abundant supply of ghee; but his labour is incessant, -for he must bring fresh water from the -interior for himself and his herd.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Towns.</div> - -<p>In a tract peopled by a pastoral race, there -are few permanent towns or villages. When we -except Darajee, Vikkur, Shahbunder, Mughribee, -and one or two others, the inhabitants -reside in temporary villages called “raj,” which -they remove at pleasure; their huts are con<span class="pagenum" id="Page_251">[251]</span>structed -of reeds and mats made from rice -straw; each house is surrounded by a grass -“tatty” or fence, to exclude the cold wind and -humid vapours which prevail in this low country, -and are considered noxious. These are the -houses of which Nearchus speaks, and are, I believe, -peculiar to the river Indus. They very -much resemble the huts of tumblers in India.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Population.</div> - -<p>It becomes a difficult matter to form any correct -opinion as to the number of inhabitants in -such a country, where the body of the people -are wanderers, and not confined to narrow limits: -huts are, however, to be seen every where, and, -excluding the city of Tatta, the population of -the Delta cannot be rated at less than 30,000 -souls; of this estimate, one third may be composed -of those who reside in the fixed towns. -This census gives seven and a half to the square -mile.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Tribes.</div> - -<p>The erratic tribe, in the Delta of the Indus, -is called Jut; these people are the aborigines of -the country; they are a superstitious race of -Mahommedans, and exceedingly ignorant. The -different banks of the rivers are peopled by -watermen of the tribe of Mooana; they are -emigrants from the Punjab, and are employed -in navigating the boats, or fishing in the sea or -river. There is also another tribe from the same -country, called Seik Lobana, whose occupation<span class="pagenum" id="Page_252">[252]</span> -it is to make reeds and mats. They also kill -wild animals and game, but are held in no -estimation by the rest of the people. Jookeas -or Jukreeas, an aboriginal race from the mountains -over Curachee, are to be found, but they -are not numerous. Some of their chiefs have -land assigned to them. There are also a few -Beloochees. On the fixed population there is -little to remark; it is chiefly composed of -Hindoos, of the mercantile caste, who carry on -the foreign and internal commerce of Sinde. -They do not differ from their brethren in India.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Jokeea -tribe.</div> - -<p>The only tribe which calls for further comment, -is that of Jokeea. These people are the descendants -of the Suma Rajpoots, who governed Sinde -in former years. They became converts to the -Mahommedan faith when the Hindoo dynasty -was subverted, and still retain the Hindoo name -of their tribe, and claim consanguinity with the -Jhareja Rajpoots of Cutch. They are mountaineers -from the west bank of the Indus, not -very numerous, and little favoured by the government. -They can bring 2000 men into the -field.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Fisheries.</div> - -<p>The fisheries in the river, and out from its -different mouths, are extensive. They are chiefly -carried on by hooks, and some of the fish caught -are of enormous dimensions. One species called -“Kujjooree” is killed for its sound, which, with<span class="pagenum" id="Page_253">[253]</span> -the fins of small sharks that abound near the -Indus, form an article of export to China. The -river fish are likewise abundant; of these, the -most remarkable is the “Pulla,” a kind of carp, -delicious in flavour, and only found in the four -months that precede the swell of the river. -Another species, called the “Singalee,” and -about the size of a small haddock, likewise -abounds. On the approach of the tide, they -make a noise under the ship, louder than a bull -frog. They have a large head, and are very -bony. They exist in all the rivers of Western -India, and are not peculiar to the Indus.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Animals.</div> - -<p>I am not aware that there are any animals peculiar -to the Delta of the Indus. Otters abound; -camels are numerous, and superior; buffaloes -are reared in great numbers; horned cattle and -sheep are plentiful. The dog, too, is here -elevated to his proper situation, and is an attendant -on man. They watch the flocks, and -are of a ferocious description, and will not allow -a stranger to approach a “raj” or village; they -swim the rivers with great dexterity.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Productions.</div> - -<p>The staple production of the Delta of the -Indus is rice: it is to be had of many different -kinds, but its value seems to depend chiefly on -its preparation for the market. Bajree and all -other Indian grains are raised. From extensive -plantations of cane, “goor,” a coarse kind of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_254">[254]</span> -sugar, is produced; which, with wheat, barley, -and moong, are reared by irrigating the fields -from cuts to the river, some months before the -periodical swell, and form what may be called a -second crop. Saltpetre is found in the Delta, -but it is not exported, though formerly an object -of commerce to the East India Company.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Climate.</div> - -<p>The climate of Lower Sinde is sultry and disagreeable. -The thermometer ranges as high as -90° in March, and though the soil is a rich -alluvium, the dust blows incessantly. The dews -are very heavy and dangerous. It is in every -respect a trying country to the human constitution, -and this was observable in the premature -old age of the inhabitants. I could not -hear of their being subject to any marsh fever, -or other evil effect from the inundation; they -confined their complaints to the inconvenience -and annoyance which they suffered from insects -and musquitoes generated in the mud.</p> - - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_255">[255]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAP_VIa">CHAP. VI.<br /> - -<span class="smaller">THE INDUS FROM TATTA TO HYDRABAD.</span></h2> -</div> - - - -<div class="sidenote">Indus from -Tatta to -Hydrabad.</div> - -<p>From the city of Tatta, which stands at a distance -of three miles from the river, we cease to -have the Indus separated into many channels. -On the right bank it is confined by low rocky -hillocks of limestone formation; and on the left -there is but one narrow branch, the Pinyaree, -which is accessible to boats from the town of -Mughribee, when the superfluous water of the -floods follows its course to the sea. Yet the -general width of the channel is less than half a -mile; at Hydrabad it is but 830 yards, at Tatta -less than 700, and below the village Hilaya, -fifteen miles from that town, it does not indeed -exceed 600. The greatest depth of water lies -opposite the capital, and is five fathoms; the -least at Tatta, where it is but fifteen feet; generally, -there is a depth of twenty feet.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Its sand-banks.</div> - -<p>The Delta of the Indus is free from sand-banks; -from Tatta to Hydrabad, they occur -every where, and, as the sides of the river are -here more frequently shelving than steep, it is -difficult to discover the deep channel, which<span class="pagenum" id="Page_256">[256]</span> -perplexes the navigator. Many of these sand-banks -are but knee deep in the water, and are -constantly shifting their position; the current -being less rapid than near the sea, they are not -easily swept away. In several places they have -become islands, and divide the stream into two -channels, one of which will <i>always</i> be found -navigable. This subdivision of the river has -occasioned many of these branches being given -as separate rivers in our maps, but, as I have -before stated, none such exist, excepting the -Pinyaree. In the floods there is a narrow channel -above Triccul, communicating with the -Fulailee branch, which insulates Hydrabad at -that season.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Course and -extent.</div> - -<p>The distance by land from Tatta to Hydrabad -is less than fifty miles, nor do the windings of -the stream increase it, even by water, to sixty-five. -Its course is south-west by south, and -rather direct, with one decided turn, below -Jurruk, where it throws off the river leading to -Mughribee. We made the voyage against the -stream in two days.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Towns, &c.</div> - -<p>There are not a dozen places between Tatta -and the capital; the only one of note is Jurruk, -situated near some low rocky hillocks, nor does -it boast a population of 1500 souls: none of -them are fortified.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Country.</div> - -<p>This country, which might be one of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_257">[257]</span> -richest and most productive in the world, is -devoted to sterility. Hunting preserves, or, as -they are called, “shikargahs,” follow one another -in such succession, as to leave no land for tillage; -and the fences which confine the game approach -within a few yards of the Indus. The interior -of these preserves forms a dense thicket, composed -of tamarisk, saline shrubs, and other underwood, -with stunted trees of bramble, which -are not allowed to be pruned or cut; so that -the banks of the Indus, if in the hands of a -formidable enemy, afford cover from which an -expedition conducted by water might be constantly -and grievously harassed. The roads -through this tract are equally close and strong.</p> - -<p>Neglected as is this portion of Sinde, it is not -destitute of supply; grain is cheap and plentiful -everywhere. Tatta and Hydrabad are the -ancient and modern capitals of the country.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Productions.</div> - -<p>The productions of the soil in the gardens of -Tatta exhibit the fertility of this land: the vine -is successfully reared, as also the fig and the pomegranate. -There are apple-trees in abundance, -and though the fruit is small, it increases in size -about Hydrabad. In the few patches of cultivation -may be seen indigo, tobacco, sugar-cane, -with wheat, barley, and all the other Indian -grains; but it is the policy of the rulers of -Sinde to keep every thing in a state of nature,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_258">[258]</span> -that their territories may not excite the cupidity -of surrounding states. Agriculture and commerce -are alike depressed.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Trade.</div> - -<p>With regard to the trade of this country, it -may be said there is little or none anywhere -but at Curachee. The Indus is as if it existed -not; and, though grain is sent by it to the delta, -no advantage is taken of the river to convey -goods to Hydrabad. The imports are landed at -Curachee, and the most valuable export, which -is Malwa opium, is shipped from the same port. -The merchants, in prosecuting their journey to -Candahar, and the upper provinces of the Indus, -quit the Sindian territories with all dispatch. -The only encouragement which the chiefs give -to trade is in opium, yet they levy the exorbitant -duty of 250 rupees for a camel-load. -The revenue from this article alone amounted last -year it is said to seven lacs of rupees; a sum equal -to the land revenue of the Hydrabad Ameer.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Means of -improving -it.</div> - -<p>Nor do there exist any hopes of improving or -increasing commercial intercourse by this river, -till the rulers of it have more just notions of -policy, and some one of them, more enlightened -than the rest, discovers that the true riches -of a country are to be found by encouraging -the people in industry and art. At present -there is no wealth in Sinde but what is possessed -by its rulers; and had the people the in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_259">[259]</span>clination, -they have not the means of purchasing -the manufactures of Europe. The case was -otherwise in the beginning of this century, when -the East India Company traded at Tatta by a -factory, and the rulers, intimidated by their lord -paramount in Cabool, did not object to the transit -of goods to that and other countries. Sinde -must follow the fate of that portion of Asia; and, -if any of the Dooranee tribes be yet able to -seize the crown of Cabool, we may expect a -change for the better in the dependent provinces -at the mouths of the Indus.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Boats, deficiency -thereof.</div> - -<p>At present there are not vessels sufficient for -any considerable trade: between the capital -and Tatta they do not exceed fifty, many of -them small and used for fishing, others old and -worn out, that cross the stream in certain places -as ferry-boats. Encouragement would soon remedy -what may be considered a defect in a -military, as well as a commercial point of view. -Sinde has no wood for ship building, that which -is used being imported from Malabar.</p> - - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_260">[260]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAP_VII">CHAP. VII.<br /> - -<span class="smaller">FROM HYDRABAD TO SEHWUN.</span></h2> -</div> - - - -<div class="sidenote">Sehwun, its -position.</div> - -<p>The town of Sehwun stands at a distance of two -miles from the west bank of the Indus, and is -exactly 1° of latitude north of Hydrabad, for it -is crossed by the parallel of 26° 22´. The voyage -is performed in eight days, against the stream, -and the distance is 105 miles.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Indus, its -course and -depth.</div> - -<p>The river, in this part of its course, is named -“Lar,” which, in the Belooch language, means -south: it flows about S. S. E., being resisted at -Sehwun by rocky mountains, which change the -direction of the stream. Its banks are very -low, and the country bordering on them frequently -overflowed, particularly on the eastern -side: the western bank is more firm, but seldom -exceeds eight feet in height. This expansion of -the river diminishes its general depth to eighteen -feet: during the swell the increase is twelve feet -additional; the width is frequently 1000 yards -and upwards. About six miles above Hydrabad, -the Indus divides into two channels, one of -which is fordable, and the other but 400 yards -wide, which points to this as the place for crossing<span class="pagenum" id="Page_261">[261]</span> -an army. At Sehwun the rocky buttress of the -Lukkee hills hems the waters into a channel of -500 yards; but the depth is nearly forty feet, -and the current rapid.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Fulailee -River.</div> - -<p>The river throws off no branches, in this -part of its course, save the Fulailee, which leaves -the Indus twelve miles above Hydrabad, and -passes eastward of that city: it is only a stream -during the swell. It was dry at Hydrabad when -we were at that city, and but a 100 yards wide, -and knee-deep where it separated from the -Indus; yet it is a very considerable river in the -wet season, and fertilises a vast portion of Sinde -by its water, which it may be said to exhaust -between Hydrabad and Cutch. The maps give -most erroneous ideas of the Indus, for the -numerous branches which appear to leave the -river are only water courses for the periodical -swell, many of them artificial, dug for the purposes -of irrigation. The river for nine months -runs in one trunk to Tatta.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Current, -and effects -of it.</div> - -<p>The current never exceeds three miles an -hour in this part of the Indus, unless at some -places where it is confined, when its rapidity -undermines its banks, and carries villages along -with it. The towns of Majindu and Amree, on -the right bank, have both been swept away, the -former no less than eight or ten times within -the last twelve years; but the people retire a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_262">[262]</span> -few hundred yards, and again erect their habitations. -Hala, on the eastern side, has shared a -like fate; but the channel of the river lies to the -westward, where the banks are more steep, and -the left bank of the river, though consisting of -a flat field of sand, is only inundated in the -swell. At that period, for eight miles eastward -of the Indus, it is not possible to travel from -the number of shoots the river casts off. The -Indus itself is here pretty constant in its course; -and, though the country eastward would, as I -have observed, favour the escape of the water -in that direction, it clings for some time to the -Lukkee mountains.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Its military -importance.</div> - -<p>This section of the river is of great importance: -about two miles below Sehwun these -mountains run in upon the Indus, leaving two -practicable passes over them. The one leads -across a depressed part of the range, called -Buggotora, westward of the village of Lukkee -(which signifies a pass), and might be obstinately -defended: it is not a gun-road. The other -passes between the river and the mountains, and -is a cart-road, running in a valley among the -lower rocks, at the base of the Lukkee mountains. -The ground is very strong for about two -miles.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Crossing -the Indus.</div> - -<p>I have before mentioned that the river near -Sehwun is confined to a narrow bed. The right<span class="pagenum" id="Page_263">[263]</span> -bank is very remarkable, consisting of a natural -buttress of solid rock, about fifty feet high, -which extends for 400 yards along the river, -and, slanting upwards, is barely accessible to a -foot passenger. The Indus passes with such a -sweep under the base of this rampart, that, -though but 500 yards wide, I question if a -bridge could be thrown across it. There is a -more favourable place immediately north of this -precipice, where the breadth is but 100 yards -greater, and the water more still. Thirty or -forty flat-bottomed boats would always be found -at Sehwun: they lie on the left bank, which is -flat and sandy. There are good roads from -Sehwun to Hydrabad on both sides of the Indus; -and there is a footpath along the base of the -mountains to Curachee.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Navigation -of the -Indus.</div> - -<p>The river can only be navigated by dragging -the boat against the stream, for there is very -little wind in the upper parts of Sinde: the progress -by this method is sure, and averages from -fifteen to twenty miles a day. It would be impossible, -without steam, to conduct any military -expedition against the stream of the Indus, for -the labour of dragging the boats would be -great, from constant accidents, by ropes breaking, -and the vessels being hurried into the -stream. The case would be very different in -an army descending the Indus. Trading vessels,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_264">[264]</span> -however, would not be liable to any such impediments. -We only counted 180 boats in our -progress from Hydrabad to Sehwun.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Towns, -country.</div> - -<p>Of the country and towns which intervene -between Sehwun and the capital, a few words -will suffice. There are none of any size but -Sehwun itself: Muttaree, sixteen miles from -Hydrabad, contains 4000 people; and Hala, -Beyan, Majindu, and Sen about 2000 each. -The other places are few, and thinly peopled: -three or four of them have frequently one name. -The country is much neglected, the banks of -the river are, in most places, covered with -tamarisk, towards the hills it is open. Cotton, -indigo, wheat, barley, sugar, tobacco, &c. are -produced by irrigation in the dry season; but -the limited extent of the cultivation may be -discovered, by their being but 194 wells, or cuts, -from the river on one side of the Indus, between -Hydrabad and Sehwun, a distance of 100 miles, -where the greater part of the soil is rich and -cultivable. In a few places the land is salt and -sterile. Rice is only produced during the swell, -and yet provisions are dearer here than in the -neighbouring and less favoured country of Marwar. -The people live chiefly on fish and milk.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Sehwun.</div> - -<p>The town of Sehwun bears alone the marks of -opulence in this portion of Sinde; and it is indebted -for its prosperity to the shrine of a holy<span class="pagenum" id="Page_265">[265]</span> -saint from Khorasan, by name Lal Shah baz, -whose tomb is a place of pilgrimage from afar -to Hindoo and Mussulman. A branch of the -Indus, called Arrul, runs immediately past the -town, in its course from Larkhana; but this will -be described in the next chapter. Four years -since, the Indus passed close under Sehwun; but -it has retired, and left a swamp on all sides of -the town. About Sehwun the country is rich -and productive, and the bazar is well supplied. -Looking north, the eye rests on a verdant plain, -highly cultivated, which extends to the base of -the mountains: mulberries, apples, melons, and -cucumbers grow here; the grain crops are -luxuriant, and, for the first time, we saw gram. -The melons are tasteless, I presume from the -richness of the soil: cucumbers grow in Sinde -only at Sehwun. The climate is sultry, oppressive, -and disagreeable.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Lukkee -mountains. -Runna.</div> - -<p>The Lukkee mountains run in upon the Indus -at Sehwun, extending from near the seaport of -Curachee, and gradually encroaching upon the -river, till they meet in a bold buttress. The -elevation of this range does not, I think, exceed -2000 feet; their formation is limestone; the -summits are flat and rounded, never conical: -they are bare of vegetation, and much furrowed -by watercourses, all of which present a concave -turn towards the Indus. There is a hot spring<span class="pagenum" id="Page_266">[266]</span> -near Sehwun, at the village of Lukkee, situated -at the base of these mountains, adjoining one of -a cold description: the hot spring is a place of -Hindoo pilgrimage, and considered salutary in -cutaneous disorders. There is a spring of the -same kind in the neighbourhood of Curachee, at -the other extremity of the same range, so that -similar springs would probably be found in the -intervening parts. On this range, and about -sixteen miles westward of Majindu, on the -Indus, stands the fortified hill of Runna, a place -of strength in by-gone years, but, till lately, neglected. -The Ameer of Sinde has repaired it -at considerable expense; but, from what I could -learn, Runna owes its chief strength to the -absence of water from the bleak mountains -which surround it, and the copious supply within -its walls.</p> - - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_267">[267]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAP_VIII">CHAP. VIII.<br /> - -<span class="smaller">THE INDUS, FROM SEHWUN TO BUKKUR.</span></h2> -</div> - - - -<div class="sidenote">Bukkur, its -position.</div> - -<p>The insulated fortress of Bukkur is situated on -a rock in the Indus, between the towns of -Roree and Sukkur. It is a degree and twenty -minutes north of Sehwun, being in latitude -27° 4´; and in longitude it is 56 miles eastward -of that town. The distance by the river amounts -to 160 miles, and we voyaged it in nine days.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Indus.</div> - -<p>Between these points the Indus flows in a -zigzag course, nearly south-west, till it is impeded -by the Lukkee mountains, below Sehwun. -The intervening country is richly watered by -its meanderings, and, from the lowness of the -banks, the tract is disputed by the river and its -ramifications, and formed into numerous islets -of the richest pasture. On the least approach -of the swell, both banks are inundated and irrigated: -the superfluous water often forces for -itself a passage into the desert by Omercote, and -joins the eastern mouth of the Indus or Koree, -which passes Cutch. The channel of this watercourse -commences above Bukkur, and passes<span class="pagenum" id="Page_268">[268]</span> -four miles eastward of that place, the ancient city -of Alore.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Fertility of -the country.</div> - -<p>About twenty-five miles below Bukkur, the -Indus sends to the westward a branch called -Nara, that washes the base of the Hala, or -mountains of Beloochistan, and, after pursuing -a parallel course of many miles, rejoins the river -at Sehwun. Its waters are courted, and distributed -by canals, which add to the blessings -bestowed by nature on this flat and fertile land. -The eastern bank, though less favoured than the -opposite one, is highly cultivated, and most of -the towns and villages stand on the verge of -canals, which bounteously distribute the waters -of the periodical swell, and attest the industry -and assiduity of the inhabitants.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Current, -depth, &c.</div> - -<p>The river but rarely flows here in one undivided -stream; with a width of three quarters -of a mile, in some places, it preserves a depth -of fifteen feet in its shallowest bed. There -is nothing approaching to a ford in any part of -its course: two hundred boats would be found at -the various villages in this part of the river. The -declivity on which the Indus runs to the ocean -must be gentle, for above the delta it glides -sluggishly along at less than two miles and a half -in the hour. From Sehwun upwards, the Indus -is called “Sira,” which means north, in contradistinction -to the southern portion, which is<span class="pagenum" id="Page_269">[269]</span> -called “Lar.” Mehran is a foreign term, with -which the natives of the country are not acquainted.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Eastern -bank of the -Indus.</div> - -<p>The immediate vicinity of the Indus is alike -destitute of beauty and inhabitants. It is overgrown -with tamarisk shrubs, and the villages are -purposely raised at the distance of two or three -miles, to avoid the calamities of inundation; yet -there were an hundred wheels at work on the -verge of the river. The eastern bank, from -Sehwun to Bukkur, is by far the best peopled -portion of Sinde; but the inhabited places which -do occur are rather numerous and thriving than -large and wealthy: many of them have 500 -houses. This territory is subject to the chief -of Khyrpoor, and is enriched by a canal forty -feet broad, called “Meerwah,” which conducts, -by a southerly course, the waters of the Indus -from the neighbourhood of Bukkur to a distance -of ninety miles, where they are lost in sands, or -deposited in the fields. There are numerous -other canals beside the one which I have now -described; and, while their banks are fringed -with villages and agriculture, they likewise afford -the means of transporting, by boats, the produce -of the soil. In the fair season, when dry, -they become the beaten footpaths of the people, -and are excellent cart-roads, preferred at all -times to the common pathway, which, from the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_270">[270]</span> -exuberance of vegetation in this country, is -generally impeded by bushes.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Western -bank of -the Indus.</div> - -<p>The western bank of the Indus, which is intersected -by the Nara, is called Chandkoh, from -a Belooche tribe of that name, and yields the -greater portion of the land revenue of the Hydrabad -Ameers. This branch, which leaves the -Indus below Bukkur, in the latitude of Larkhana, -in its passage to the main stream, forms a small -lake, called Munchur, which abounds in fish. -Further down, it changes the name of Nara into -that of Arrul, before falling into the Indus; it -is a narrow river, about 100 yards broad, and -only navigable during the inundation. Numerous -cuts, the chief of which is the Larkhana canal, -extend the cultivation beyond its banks; and, in -addition to the swell of the Indus, this district -is watered by rills from the lofty mountains to -the westward. The lake of Munchur is environed -by fields of wheat in the dry season: its -waters then partially subside, and leave a rich -mould on which good crops are reared.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Fort of -Bukkur.</div> - -<p>The fortress of Bukkur is constructed of -brick, on a low rocky island of flint, at a distance -of 400 yards from the left bank of the Indus, -and about fifty less from the eastern side of the -river. Its walls are loop-holed, and flanked with -towers, that slope to the water’s edge: they do -not exceed twenty feet in height. There is a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_271">[271]</span> -gateway on each side of the fortification facing -Roree and Sukkur, and likewise two wickets. -The interior of the works is crowded with houses -and mosques, many of which, as well as parts of -the rock itself, appear above the wall. In shape -it approaches to an oval, and is about 800 yards -long, and 300 in diameter. At some places the -rock has been pared and scraped; but Bukkur -has no strength in its works, and is formidable -only from its position. The garrison consists -of 100 men of the Khyrpoor Ameer: there are -fifteen pieces of artillery, few of which are serviceable. -The walls enclose the entire island, -with the exception of a small date grove on the -northern side, where a landing might be effected -without difficulty, from the right bank, and the -place would fall by escalade; or it might be previously -breached from the bank of the river. -There is a depth of four fathoms on both -sides of the island; but the eastern channel -becomes shallow in the dry season, and is said -to have been once forded. The navigation of -the Indus at Bukkur is dangerous, from eddies -formed under the fortress itself; and several -other rocky islets below it; but the watermen -are considered the most experienced in Sinde, -and, as a boat never attempts to pass up or down -without a pilot, there are but few accidents.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_272">[272]</span></p> - -<div class="sidenote">Roree and -Sukkur.</div> - -<p>The town of Roree, which faces Bukkur, -stands close on the bank of the Indus, on a -flinty precipice forty feet in height, over which -the houses tower. A road cut in the rock, down -to the edge of the river, at a place where it does -not approach the precipice, is the point of embarkation -for those passing to Bukkur; but a -landing would be difficult and dangerous when -the river is high. The town of Roree has about -8000 inhabitants, chiefly Hindoos. To the eastward -of it, several detached hillocks of flint present -a most bleak and barren appearance, but -add to the strength of the country; beyond -their limits a grove of date trees extends for -three or four miles to the southward of the -town, shading numerous orchards and gardens. -Sukkur, which stands opposite Roree, is about -half the size of that town: both have been considerable -places in former years, and the ruins of -minarets and mosques remain. The bank of the -river at Sukkur is not precipitous, and the town -runs in from it, instead of extending, like Roree, -along its banks. These two towns doubtless owe -their position to Bukkur, which, as a protection -in troubled times, added to the courage -and hopes of the inhabitants.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Khyrpoor -and Larkhana.</div> - -<p>The only modern towns of note which require -remark, are Khyrpoor and Larkhana, on the left -and right banks of the river, nearly under the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_273">[273]</span> -same parallel of latitude, both distant from it -about fourteen miles, and watered by canals from -the Indus. Khyrpoor is a modern town, built -by the Talpoor chief, Sohrab, who seized on the -northern part of Sinde, after the subversion of -the Caloras. It contains a population of about -15,000 souls, but is merely a collection of mud -hovels heaped together in narrow lanes. It is -destitute of fort or defence, unless a mud wall -about a foot thick, which surrounds the house -of the Ameer and his family, can be considered -in that light. The country near it is flat and -bushy, and a low dyke has been drawn round -the town, to keep the inundations of the river -at a distance. Larkhanu, which stands on the -western bank, is the capital of the Pergunna of -Chandkoh: it has about 10,000 people, and is -the head quarters and rallying point of the Sinde -Ameers on their N. W. frontier. It has a small -mud fort; and an inefficient train of artillery, -about twenty in number, frightens the refractory -in the neighbouring mountains, and maintains -the peace of Sinde. It is governed by a Nuwab, -the individual next in rank to the rulers of the -land.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Productions.</div> - -<p>The productions of Sinde are very similar in -different parts of the country, and the same -kinds of grain are produced here as at Sehwun. -There is a shrub very like the wall-flower called<span class="pagenum" id="Page_274">[274]</span> -“syar,” that grows in this tract, and the juice of -which is considered a valuable medicine for the -diseases of children. The wheat-fields are -invariably surrounded by a low dyke, like rice -ground: tobacco grows very luxuriantly near -Roree. The greatest want in Sinde is grass, -which is choked by the tamarisk; to which the -people set fire, and derive, by such means, -an abundant crop. There are but few trees in -Sinde; the babool<a id="FNanchor_23" href="#Footnote_23" class="fnanchor">[23]</a>, even, does not attain any -considerable size; the neem<a id="FNanchor_24" href="#Footnote_24" class="fnanchor">[24]</a> and sirs, so abundant -in India, are rarely seen, and the banian<a id="FNanchor_25" href="#Footnote_25" class="fnanchor">[25]</a> -tree is a stranger. The shrubs of the thurr, the -kejra, khair, bair, akra (swallow-wort), and tamarisk, -grow every where. I have already alluded -to the date grove of Roree.</p> - - - - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_275">[275]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAP_IX">CHAP. IX.<br /> - - -<span class="smaller">THE INDUS FROM BUKKUR, TILL JOINED BY THE -PUNJAB RIVERS.</span></h2> - -</div> - - -<div class="sidenote">The Indus.</div> - -<p>The waters of the Punjab, united in one stream, -fall into the Indus at Mittun, in the latitude of -28° 55´ north. From this point to Bukkur, the -river pursues a south-westerly course, is direct -in its channel, but frequently divided by sand -banks. Various narrow, crooked branches also -diverge from the parent stream, retaining a depth -from eight to fifteen feet of water, which are -navigated by boats ascending the Indus, in preference -to the great river itself. They extend -throughout the whole intervening space which I -have now under review.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Its breadth -and depth.</div> - -<p>The Indus is widely spread in many parts of -its course above Bukkur. It often exceeds a -thousand yards in breadth, and at Mittun was -found to be even double that width. The depth -was not proportionally diminished: in some places -it exceeded sixteen fathoms, and four fathoms -were to be found every where; which, it is to be -recollected, was at a season when the waters are -lowest. There was no greater acceleration of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_276">[276]</span> -current than in the lower parts of the river, -and the serpentine course of the narrows just -mentioned proves the great flatness of this -country.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Boats of -the Indus.</div> - -<p>From Bukkur the Indus is navigated by a -different description of boat from the Doondee, -called “zohruk,” and admirably adapted to the -transport of troops, both horse and foot, from -being as roomy before as astern: they are not -numerous, but we met ninety-five of them in our -voyage to Mittun. We made the passage in these -boats from Bukkur to Mittun in nine days, a -distance of 170 miles by the river.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Country on -its banks.</div> - -<p>The country which this portion of the Indus -traverses is of the richest nature, particularly on -the eastern bank, where it is flooded from innumerable -channels, which are generally cut in -those parts of the river running east and west, -that the water may be thrown south into the interior. -On the right bank, about twenty-six -miles above Bukkur, a navigable canal called -the “Sinde,” the work of the emperors, conducts -a great body of water to Shikarpoor and -Noushera, and joins that of Larkhanu. On -that side of the river the cultivation is limited, -as the districts of Boordgah, Ken, and Moozarka, -which succeed each other, are peopled by wandering -and unsettled Belooche tribes, who lead a -pastoral and plundering life. The territory on<span class="pagenum" id="Page_277">[277]</span> -both sides chiefly belongs to Sinde, for the -boundary line stretches, on the right bank, to -within fifteen miles of Mittun, and adjoining -the dominions of the Seik; but it overlaps that -on the left, which terminates lower down in the -latitude of 28° 33´, twenty-five miles above Subzul. -This stripe of land on the left bank forms -a portion of the territories of the Daoodpootra -chief, Bhawul Khan; and the district immediately -below that chief’s territory in Sinde is named -Oobaro, and inhabited by the Duhrs and Muhrs, -who are the aborigines of the country, and known -by the name of Sindees.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Shikarpoor, -Subzul, -and other -places.</div> - -<p>The town of Shikarpoor, which stands thirty-two -miles from Bukkur, is by far the largest in -this tract, indeed in Sinde, for in size it exceeds -the capital, Hydrabad. The country around it -is very productive, but in the change of masters, -from the Afghans to the Sindians, its revenue -has deteriorated to half a lac of rupees annually: -the government is oppressive. It still carries -on an extensive inland trade, for the greater -portion of its merchants and people are Hindoos, -and have agents in the surrounding countries. -Shikarpoor is surrounded by a mud wall, and -the governor of the place holds an important -post, and with it the title of Nuwab. This town -and district fell into the hands of the Sindians -about eight years ago, and is the only unsettled<span class="pagenum" id="Page_278">[278]</span> -portion of their country, the Afghan family to -whom it belonged making frequent attempts -to recover it. The frontier town of Subzul on -the left bank of the Indus, and twelve miles -inland, is about one fifth the size of Shikarpoor: -it contains a population of 5000 souls, and like -it is surrounded by a mud wall. There are no -other places of note but these which I have -mentioned. Mittun, or, as it is sometimes called, -Mittun Kote, has not a population of 1500 -people, and its fort has been demolished.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Swell of -the Indus.</div> - -<p>It will be observed in this part of its course, -as well as elsewhere, that there are no towns or -places of size in the immediate vicinity of the -Indus; which is owing to the annual swell of -the river rendering it impossible to cultivate or -raise a crop within its reach. This leads to the -waters being conducted inland by canals, the -banks of which being frequently overflowed -render the country untenable. The neighbourhood -of Subzul Kote has been deserted on this -account, and the great quantity of water forces -for itself a channel from this direction upon the -watercourse at Alore. The Indus is very -variable in its rise in different years, and for -these two by-gone seasons has not attained its -usual height.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Cattle, -animals, &c.</div> - -<p>The number of horned cattle to be seen in -this part of the Indus is exceedingly numerous.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_279">[279]</span> -Buffaloes are so plentiful as to be only a fourth -the value of those lower down the river, and the -very best may be purchased for ten rupees each. -Deer, hog, and partridge abound, and the water-fowl -above Bukkur are numerous, even in this -season (May).</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Tribes bordering -on -the Indus.</div> - -<p>I have mentioned the districts lying westward -of the Indus, and the predatory habits of the -inhabitants. The Boordees occupy all the -plains north of Shikarpoor, to the borders of the -Brahooee country, or Cutch Gundava. They -are emigrants from Kej and Mekran, and of the -Belooche family of Rind. They are a fair and -handsome race of men, more like Afghans than -Beloochees: they do not wear the costume of -Sinde, but roll a cloth in folds loosely round -their brows, and allow their hair in long tresses -to hang suspended, which gives them a savage -appearance. They took the name of Boordee, -from a noted individual in the tribe, according -to the Belooche custom, for the various tribes are -nothing more than descendants of some person -of note. The chief place of the Boordees is -Duree, but they have no large towns. The whole -“Oolooss,” or tribe, is rated at 10,000 fighting -men, and till their chiefs were taken into the -service of the Ameers, they were constantly -marauding: petty robberies are yet committed. -Their language is a corrupted Persian: of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_280">[280]</span> -other tribes, the Juttooees, Moozarees, Boogtees, -and Kulphurs, with many more, they differ from -the Boordees only in name. The Juttooees are -to be found in Boordgah: the Moozarees, whose -chief town is Rozan, extend as far as Dera -Ghazee Khan, but their power is now broken, -though they plundered in former times the -armies of Cabool. The Kulphurs and Boogtees -occupy the hills called Gendaree, which -commence below the latitude of Mittun, and -run parallel with the Indus.</p> - - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_281">[281]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAP_X">CHAP. X.<br /> - -<span class="smaller">THE INDUS FROM MITTUN TO ATTOK.</span></h2> -</div> - - - -<div class="sidenote">The Indus -above -Mittun.</div> - -<p>While on our progress to Mooltan, by the -Chenab or Acesines, I made various enquiries, -and sent different people to acquire precise information, -regarding the Indus above Mittun. -The Cabool mission in 1809 came upon that -river, at Oodoo da Kote, about 100 miles north -of the point in question; and I was desirous of -connecting my own surveys with that place, and -thus complete our knowledge of the Indus from -the sea to Attok.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Description -of it.</div> - -<p>The river runs, in this part of its course, -nearly due south, and is free from danger and -difficulty in navigation. It is here generally -known by the name of Sinde or Attok, and traverses -a country much the same as I have described -near Mittun, being often widely spread -from the lowness of its banks. Its breadth is -considerably diminished; for at Kaheree, when -Mr. Elphinstone crossed it in January, the -soundings did not exceed twelve feet, with a -breadth of 1000 yards, while the Indus, after it -has received the Punjab rivers, rolls past Mittun<span class="pagenum" id="Page_282">[282]</span> -with a width exactly twofold. On the left -bank, too, the soundings were found to be four -fathoms deep.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Province -of Dera -Ghazee -Khan.</div> - -<p>On the right bank of the river the province -of Dera Ghazee Khan occupies the country as -far as the mountains. It is a fertile territory, -and the capital which bears its name is one of -the largest towns on the Indus. It is surrounded -by gardens and date groves, and stands in a -very rich country: it has been long numbered -among the conquests of the Seiks, who farmed -it, till lately, to the Khan of Bhawulpoor at an -annual rent of six lacs of rupees; but as the -district originally produced but four, every -species of extortion was practised which led -to its late resumption. The tract being remote -from Runjeet Sing’s dominions, he is anxious -to hold it without requiring the services of his -troops; and the Maharajah has given Dajil and -some portion of the territory to the Brahooees, -its former owners, on condition of military -service.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Commerce, -in line of -route.</div> - -<p>The productions of Demaun, and the countries -westward of the Indus, are sometimes brought -by Dera Ghazee Khan, and crossed to Ooch; -but the more frequented route lies higher up, -and passing the ferry at Kaheree leads to Mooltan. -The river is not used in the transport of -any portion of the trade, for the hire of boats is<span class="pagenum" id="Page_283">[283]</span> -exorbitant, and it is sent on camels or bullocks. -Madder (called munjoot) is an article of export -from this part of the Indus, and used to dye the -fabrics of Bhawulpoor.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Expeditions, -why -they avoided -the -Indus.</div> - -<p>It is a remarkable fact that the various expeditions -that have been conducted from the -upper provinces of the Indus, to the countries -lower down, have taken the rivers of the Punjab, -as far as they went, in preference to the Indus -itself; but we are certainly not to infer therefrom -that the greater river is shut against navigation. -The conquests of Alexander led him -beyond the neighbourhood of the Indus, and in -the case of the emperors their capital was long -fixed at Lahore, and several of their fleets against -lower Sinde were fitted out at Mooltan, always -a city of great importance in the empire, and on -a river as accessible to the boats of the country -as the Indus itself.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Bridge of -boats at -Attok.</div> - -<p>The Indus has been crossed at Attok, and an -account of it, and that fortress, will be found in -Mr. Elphinstone’s work; but the means which -the ruler of Lahore has used of late years to -transport his army to the right bank of the river, -and which I heard from his officers, and afterwards -had confirmed on the spot, deserve -mention. Runjeet Sing retains a fleet of thirty-seven -boats, for the construction of a bridge at -Attok, where the river is only 260 yards wide.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_284">[284]</span> -The boats are anchored in the stream, a short -distance from one another, and the communication -is completed by planks, and covered with -mud: immediately below the fortress of Attok, -twenty-four boats are only required, but at other -places in the neighbourhood, so many as thirty-seven -are used. Such a bridge can only be -thrown across the Indus from November to -April, on account of the velocity of the stream -being comparatively diminished at that season, -and even then the manner of fixing the boats -seems incredible. Skeleton frame-works of -wood, filled with stones, to the weight of 250 -maunds (25,000 lbs.), and bound strongly by -ropes, are let down from each boat, to the -number of four or six, though the depth exceeds -thirty fathoms, and these are constantly strengthened -by others to prevent accident. Such a -bridge has been completed in three days, but six -is a more usual period. We are struck with the -singular coincidence between this manner of -throwing up a bridge, and that described by -Arrian<a id="FNanchor_26" href="#Footnote_26" class="fnanchor">[26]</a>, when Alexander crossed the Indus. -He mentions his belief regarding Alexander’s -bridge at Attok, and except that the skeleton -frame-works are described as “huge wicker-baskets,” -the modern and ancient manner of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_285">[285]</span> -crossing the river appears to have been the -same. The Afghans farmed the construction -of a bridge at Attok for the sum of 14,000 -rupees; but the Seik has put a stop to the ruin -of habitations and houses which it invariably -caused, and keeps up an efficient supply of -materials. An army which does not exceed -5000 men is crossed at Attok by the ferry boats -with less labour than by a bridge.</p> - - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_286">[286]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAP_XI">CHAP. XI.<br /> - -<span class="smaller">THE CHENAB OR ACESINES JOINED BY THE -SUTLEGE OR HESUDRUS.</span></h2> -</div> - - - -<div class="sidenote">Chenab or -Acesines.</div> - -<p>The Acesines of the Greeks, or the modern -Chenab, is lost in the Indus at Mittun, having -previously gathered the waters of the Punjab -rivers. The junction is formed without noise or -violence, for the banks are depressed on both -sides, and the river is expanded: an eddy is cast -to the eastern side, which sinks the water below -the usual level, but it does not occasion danger. -The Euphrates and Tigris, when joined, pass to -the ocean under the name of the “river of the -Arabs,” and the appellation of Punjnud, or “the -five rivers,” has been bestowed on this portion -of the Chenab; but it is a designation unknown -to the people living on its banks, and adopted, -I conclude, for geographical convenience.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Joined by -the Sutlege.</div> - -<p>Under the parallel of 29° 20´ north latitude, -and five miles above Ooch, the Chenab receives -the Garra, or joint stream of the Beas and Sutlege -(Hyphasis and Hesudrus of antiquity). -This junction is also formed without violence, -and the low banks of both rivers lead to constant<span class="pagenum" id="Page_287">[287]</span> -alteration in the point of the union, which, but -a year ago, was two miles higher up. This circumstance -renders it difficult to decide on the -relative size of these rivers at their junction; -both are about 500 yards wide, but the Chenab -is more rapid. Immediately below the confluence, -the united stream exceeds 800 yards; but in its -course to the Indus, though it expands sometimes -to a greater size, the Chenab rarely widens to -600 yards. In this part of its course it is likewise -subject to change. The depth is greatest -near its confluence with the Indus, exceeding -twenty feet, but it decreases in ascending the -river to about fifteen. The current is swifter -than the Indus, running at the rate of three and -a half miles an hour. The Chenab has some -sand banks, but they do not interrupt its navigation -by the “zohruks,” or flat-bottomed boats, -forty of which will be found between Ooch and -Mittun, a distance of forty miles, and a five days’ -voyage.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Banks of -the Chenab.</div> - -<p>The banks of the Chenab seldom rise three -feet above the water’s edge, and they are more -open and free from thick tamarisk than the -Indus. Near the river there are green reeds, -not unlike sugar-cane, and a shrub called -“wahun,” with leaves like the beech-tree, but -the country is highly cultivated, and intersected -by various canals. The soil is slimy, and most<span class="pagenum" id="Page_288">[288]</span> -productive: the crops are rich, and the cattle -large and abundant; the villages are exceedingly -numerous, and shaded by lofty trees. Some -of these are the temporary habitations of pastoral -tribes, who remove from one place to another, -but there are many of a permanent description -on both banks. Their safety is nowise affected -by the inundations of the river or those of the -Indus, for the expansion of these has been exaggerated, -and it rarely extends two miles from -the banks of either river.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Ooch, its -productions, -&c.</div> - -<p>The only place of note on the Chenab, below -its junction by the Garra, is Ooch. It stands -four miles westward of the river, and no doubt -owes its site to the junction of two navigable -streams in the vicinity. The country around it -is highly cultivated: the tobacco plant in particular -grows most luxuriantly; and after the -season of inundation, the tract is one sheet of -green fields and verdure. The productions of -the gardens are various; the fig, vine, apple, and -mulberry, with the “falsa,” which produces an -acid berry, may be seen, also the “bedee mishk” -(odoriferous willow). Roses, balsams, and the -lily of the valley, excite a pleasing remembrance, -and there are many plants foreign to -India. A sensitive shrub, called “shurmoo,” or -“the modest,” particularly struck me: its leaves, -when touched, close and fall down upon the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_289">[289]</span> -stalk, as if broken. The mango does not attain -perfection in this soil or climate, and seems to -deteriorate as we advance north. Indigo is -reared successfully. Wheat and other grains are -cultivated in preference to rice, which does not -form here, as in Sinde and the lower provinces of -the Indus, the food of the people, though it may -be had in great quantities.</p> - - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_290">[290]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAP_XII">CHAP. XII.<br /> - -<span class="smaller">ON BHAWUL KHAN’S COUNTRY.</span></h2> -</div> - - - -<div class="sidenote">Its extent.</div> - -<p>The small territory eastward of the Indus, -which lies between the confines of the chief of -Lahore and the Ameers of Sinde, belongs to -Bhawul Khan Daoodpootra. His frontier to the -north may be loosely said to be bounded by the -Sutlege, or Garra, but at Bhawulpoor it crosses -that river, and, running westward to a place -called Julalpoor, comprises a portion of the -country between the Sutlege and Acesines, the -Acesines and the Indus. The Rajpoot principality -of Beecaneer bounds it to the east. It -has Jaysulmeer to the south, and, on that part -where it approaches Sinde, a tract of four miles -in either country is left without tillage, to prevent -dispute on the marches.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Its nature.</div> - -<p>The greater part of this country is a barren -waste of sand-hills. In the vicinity of the -rivers, the tract is rich and fertile, watered, -like the other banks of the Indus, by the annual -swell. The towns are few in number, and -scantily distributed, but there are numerous -hamlets on the Acesines. Bhawulpoor, which<span class="pagenum" id="Page_291">[291]</span> -stands on the left bank of the Sutlege, has a -population of about twenty thousand people, and -is the mercantile capital; the walled town of -Ahmedpoor, further south, and about half the -size, is the residence of the chief, as it lies -closer to Durawul, an ancient fort in the desert -(without a town), and the only place of strength -in the country. Durawul is mentioned in the -histories of Sinde as a fortress worthy of Alexander: -it was taken by Mirza Shah Hoosein, in -the year of the Hejira 931; but an account of -the siege proves its position to have been more -formidable than its strength: it is built of brick.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Power and -importance.</div> - -<p>The influence of the chief of Bhawulpoor is -as limited as his territory, his power having been -crushed by the Seiks, and only saved from -entire overthrow by a treaty, which prevents -Runjeet Sing from crossing the Sutlege. The -revenues do not exceed ten lacs annually (excluding -Dera Ghazee Khan; which, properly, -belongs to the Seik), three of which are demanded -in tribute by the Lahore chief, for his -lands north of the Sutlege; yet Bhawul Khan -maintains some state, and has about two thousand -regular troops (such as they are), with a train of -artillery, to second the efforts of his feudatories -in the field; and his forces collected would -exceed twenty thousand men. The present chief -inherited a large patrimony in treasure.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_292">[292]</span></p> - -<div class="sidenote">Daoodpootras, -their -descent.</div> - -<p>The Daoodpootras are a tribe of Mahommedans -from the district of Shikarpoor, on the -right bank of the Indus, which they held in the -earlier part of Aurungzebe’s reign. They crossed -the river, and achieved, by daring acts of bravery, -the conquest of the lands now held by them, -from the Duhrs, Muhrs, and other Sindee tribes, -and have been settled in Bhawulpoor for five -generations. As the name Daoodpootra implies, -they are descendants of one Daood or David; but -the chiefs claim a lineage from the holy line of -Abbas, the uncle of Mahommed. The chiefs of -the tribe are named Peerjanee, and the common -people Kihranee. The community are not allowed -to assert their right to the same holy -descent as their masters, which casts some doubt -on the lustre of their parentage. The whole -tribe does not exceed fifty thousand souls. They -are a fair and handsome race of people, but disfigured -by long bushy tresses of hair, which they -allow to hang over their shoulders.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">The reigning -family.</div> - -<p>Bhawulpoor was tributary to Cabool as long -as that kingdom lasted; and the chief had the -title of Nawab, but was nearly independent. -The three last rulers have taken the name of -Bhawul Khan, from a saint of great repute in -Mooltan; and the designation of Nawab has -been changed to that of Khan, by which title -he is familiarly known to his subjects. The<span class="pagenum" id="Page_293">[293]</span> -present Bhawul Khan is about thirty years old, -and much beloved by his people: he has a turn -for mechanics, and gives great encouragement -to trade and agriculture. He succeeded, about -five years ago, to the prejudice of his elder -brother, who now holds an office under him; -his power is firmly fixed, and he has a family of -three sons. The form of government is despotic, -and there is no chief of any great importance -in the country but the Khan himself; and the -style and formality of his court keep even these -humble, and at a respectful distance.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Trade of -Bhawulpoor.</div> - -<p>The manufactures of Bhawulpoor consist of -loongees, which are celebrated for the fineness -of their texture. The weavers are Hindoos, a -numerous class in this country, and who enjoy -more toleration in their trade than their religion. -The merchants of Bhawulpoor deal -extensively in goods of European manufacture, -which they receive from Pallee, in Marwar, by -way of Beecaneer and the desert, and send into -the Dooranee country by the route of Mooltan -and Leia, crossing the Indus at Kaheree. The -Hindoos of Bhawulpoor, and, indeed, of all this -country, are a most enterprising race of men: -they often travel to Balkh and Bokhara, and -sometimes to Astracan, for purposes of commerce: -they take the route of Peshawur, Cabool, -and Bamean, and, crossing the Oxus, exchange<span class="pagenum" id="Page_294">[294]</span> -at Bokhara the productions of India, for that -quarter of Asia and Russia, which are annually -brought by the merchants of that country. They -spoke highly of the Uzbek King, and praised -Dost Mahommed, of Cabool, for the protection he -afforded to trade. The Sutlege, or, rather, the -joint stream of it and the Beas, called Garra, -on which Bhawulpoor stands, is a navigable -river, though not used in the transport of its -merchandise. It does not lie, however, on any -available line of route, except that of Sinde; from -which country, as I have before repeated, there -is no trade with the upper provinces of the Indus. -Of the name of this river, the Beas, I may add, -that it is a contraction of Bypasa, in which we -have nearly all the letters of Hyphasis, the designation -of it found in the ancient authors.</p> - - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_295">[295]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAP_XIII">CHAP. XIII.<br /> - -<span class="smaller">THE PUNJAB.</span></h2> -</div> - - - -<div class="sidenote">Extent of -Runjeet -Sing’s territory.</div> - -<p>The territories of Maha Rajah Runjeet Sing -stretch from the Sutlege to the Indus, from -Cashmere to Mooltan, and comprise the whole -of the countries watered by the Punjab, or five tributary -rivers, eastward of the Indus. The power -of the Maha Rajah over this tract of country -is consolidated: he commands the fastnesses of -the mountains, and its alluvial plains. So entirely -has the Seik nation altered its constitution, -under this chief, that, within a period of twenty -years, it has passed from a pure republic to an -absolute monarchy. The genius of one man has -effected this change, though contending with -powerful opposition, from a religion, that inculcates, -above every other, democracy and the -equality of all.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Changes in -the Seik -government.</div> - -<p>This change of habits has been general, and -the fortunate prince who achieved it, is not more -pre-eminent among his nobles, than they are -among their followers; from whom they receive -a respect bordering on veneration. We have -now no convocations at Umritsir, the sacred city<span class="pagenum" id="Page_296">[296]</span> -of the Seiks, where the affairs of the state were -discussed and settled, and none of the liberty -which the followers of Gooroo Govind proudly -claimed as the feature of distinction in their -tribe. It is evident that the change will affect -the energies of the Seik nation, for they sprang -from a religion which was free from the worn-out -dogmas of Hindooism, and the deteriorated -Mahommedanism of their neighbours, the Euzoofzyees: -their bravery was coeval with that -religion, and based upon it; their political greatness -sprang from their change of faith, and -though that has been changed, the Seiks are yet -left with peculiar tenets, and continue to all intents -and purposes a distinct people.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Policy of -Runjeet -Sing, and -state of his -army.</div> - -<p>The power which Runjeet Sing acquired has -been preserved by his policy: he has a disciplined -army of infantry, with a due proportion of -cavalry and artillery. The system is unpopular -in the country, and the Seik Sirdars view with -distrust the innovation, and the innovators. The -French officers, when deprived of their patron, -would find it necessary to stand aloof, from -motives of personal safety; and, if they left the -country, the wreck of their labours would soon -perish in the general tumult. At present their -battalions manœuvre with regularity and precision: -they are well accoutred and dressed, but -destitute of the most essential quality of a soldier,—discipline.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_297">[297]</span> -Their payment is irregular: they -undergo cheerfully the mechanical duties of the -soldier, and have shown their gallantry on -service; but there is no tie between the army -and the government, and the greater and more -glorious victories of the Maha Rajah were -achieved before he had regular troops.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Seik Sirdars, -or chiefs.</div> - -<p>The Sirdars of the Seik nation lose their power -in their own feuds. Runjeet has not failed to -foment these, and turn them to advantage; and, -as a mediator of differences, he has always despoiled -both parties to aggrandise himself: he -considers it justifiable to profit by the vices and -bad qualities of human nature, and cares not how -much he promises, and how little he fulfils. The -Maha Rajah, however, has portioned out, with a -liberal hand, the lands and conquests among his -Sirdars, and conciliated them by this means; -few of them place any reliance on his character: -they are aware of his power, and dread -to give him offence.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Revenues -of the -Punjab.</div> - -<p>The revenues of the Punjab and its dependencies -amount to about two and a half crores -of rupees annually: the principal item in this -sum is derived from Cashmere, which furnishes -thirty-six lacs of rupees. I may add, -that all the jagheers and revenues of religious -persons are included in the net sum I have -named. The revenue is collected by arbitrary<span class="pagenum" id="Page_298">[298]</span> -exactions, at the will of the collector, as in other -native governments. They are presumed, at the -outset, to be dishonest, and, aware of the fact, -rifle the peasant, and are prepared to be rifled in -return. The exactions, as regulated by Runjeet -himself, are mild, and his late acquisitions about -Mooltan are in a most prosperous condition. -Cashmere, on the other hand, is described as the -very essence of bad government: the people are -oppressed, and the Maha Rajah is afraid to trust -other but menial servants with that valuable -ornament of his crown.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Revenues -might be -increased.</div> - -<p>The revenues of the Punjab might be increased -by annexing to it the provinces <i>immediately</i> -westward of the Indus, some of which -have been subdued by Runjeet Sing; but he -has shown, in this instance, his usual foresight -and discrimination. Across the Indus, he would -encounter a most fanatical people, the Euzoofzyees, -who would occupy the time of his army; -he contents himself, therefore, with an annual -tribute of some horses and rice from Peshawur. -Lower down the Indus, he farms the province -of Dera Ghazee Khan to the Khan of Bhawulpoor.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Military -resources.</div> - -<p>The military resources of the Punjab are great: -it yields more grain than is sufficient for the -consumption of its inhabitants; but the scarcity -of population prevents the full measure of its<span class="pagenum" id="Page_299">[299]</span> -production. Camels, mules, horses, and cattle -abound, and all of them, except the cattle, which -are small, are of a superior description. The -roads, from one extremity of the country to the -other, admit of wheeled carriages, except among -the mountains: the Indus, and all the other -rivers are navigable, though not navigated. They -have ferry-boats in abundance, and there are -also materials for their further construction; -these rivers are frequently passed on skins, but -these are more in use among the mountains than -the plains.</p> - -<p>The paucity of Seiks, in a country ruled and -governed by them, is remarkable. The mother -earth of the tribe is the “doab,” between the -Ravee and Sutlege; but there are few of them -to be found thirty miles below Lahore. There -are no Seiks westward of the Hydaspes; and to -the eastward of Lahore, where they are said to -predominate, they do not certainly compose a -third of the population. The Punjab, indeed, is -a poorly peopled country, in proportion to its -fertility, though it is probable that it has increased -in population under the present ruler.<a id="FNanchor_27" href="#Footnote_27" class="fnanchor">[27]</a></p> - - - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_300">[300]</span></p> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAP_XIV">CHAP. XIV.<br /> - -<span class="smaller">THE CHENAB, OR ACESINES, JOINED BY THE -RAVEE, OR HYDRAOTES.</span></h2> -</div> - - - -<div class="sidenote">The Chenab -described.</div> - -<p>The Acesines is the largest of the Punjab rivers, -but its size has been exaggerated. Ptolemy informs -us that it is fifteen furlongs wide in the -upper part of its course; and Arrian states that -it surpasses the Nile when it has received the -waters of the Punjab falling into the Indus by a -mouth of thirty stadia. Alexander warred in -the rainy reason, when these rivers are much -swollen, and when the inundation had set in -for two months. We have already exposed the -latter part of this amplification, in confining -the Chenab to a breadth of 600 yards, and a -depth of twenty feet. There is no perceptible -diminution in the size of this stream, from the -Sutlege upwards, for that river increases the -depth without adding to the breadth; and the -Chenab, south of the Ravee, will be found, as I -have before described it, only with the shallow -soundings of twelve feet. Its banks are so low, -that it is in some places spread as much as 1200 -yards, and looks as large as the Indus. At<span class="pagenum" id="Page_301">[301]</span> -Mooltan ferry it was 1000 yards across, and -below its junction with the Ravee, above three -quarters of a mile; but these are exceptions to -the general feature of the stream.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Its banks, -&c.</div> - -<p>The Chenab receives the Ravee, or Hydraotes, -below Fazilpoor, under the parallel of 30° 40´ -north latitude, nearly 180 miles from Ooch, by -the windings of the river, and upwards of 53 -miles from Mooltan; in the neighbourhood -of which city it passes on its course to the Indus, -by a direction about south-west.<a id="FNanchor_28" href="#Footnote_28" class="fnanchor">[28]</a> The redness -of its water has already been mentioned, and -that of the Ravee has even a deeper tinge. It -runs quicker than the Indus, or any of the Punjab -rivers, and its banks on both sides are open and -richly irrigated by larger canals of running water, -dug with great labour; on the right bank, from -Mooltan upwards, there is a desert of low sand-hills, -which does not admit of cultivation, and -presses in upon the cultivated land at the short -distance of two miles from the river. It is a -mistake to believe that this desert commences so -low as Ooch, and occupies the “doab” of the -Indus and Acesines; for that tract has many -large villages, and is rich and fertile across from -one river bank to the other. The distance<span class="pagenum" id="Page_302">[302]</span> -between the two rivers is about twenty-five -miles, nor does it become desert till it widens beyond -that space below Mooltan.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Boats of -the Acesines.</div> - -<p>At Mooltan the Acesines is navigated by the -“zohruk;” but the vessel differs in some degree -from that used in the Daoodpootra country: the -waist is little more than a foot above water; -they are much smaller, and hoist a mat-sail on a -small mast. As there is no trade, ferry-boats -are only to be had, if we except the few which -bring down salt from the Jelum or Hydaspes. -We embarked in a fleet of ten boats, while such -an additional number are not to be procured on -this part of the river. - - -<span class="sidenote">Wood, &c.</span> -These vessels are built -of the dyar, or cedar wood from the mountains -in which the Punjab rivers have their -source: the supply which the inundation roots -up and floats down, is sufficient for all purposes, -without any one carrying on a professed trade in -it. While the boats here are constructed of this -wood, they are repaired with the “talee” tree, -which may be found near every village; and, -though this country is not well wooded, an -army might soon procure a supply by cutting -trees from the villages near the river, and floating -them down to any place of rendezvous.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Crossing -the river.</div> - -<p>The natives of this country cross the rivers -without boats, on skins or bundles of reeds; and -whole families may be seen passing in this ap<span class="pagenum" id="Page_303">[303]</span>parently -insecure mode. I have observed a -man, with his wife and three children, in the -middle of the stream, the father on a skin -dragging his wife and children, who were seated -on reeds, and one of them an infant at the breast: -goods, clothes and chattels form a bundle for -the head; and though alligators do certainly exist, -they are not numerous, or such as to deter the -people from repeating an experiment, to say the -least of it, not free from danger.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">District of -Mooltan.</div> - -<p>The greater part of the country bordering on -this part of the Acesines is included in the district -of Mooltan, which, besides the city of that -name, contains the modern town of Shoojurabad. -The government, when tributary to Cabool, has -been described in the worst terms; but Runjeet -Sing has recruited its population, repaired the -canals, and added to their number, raising it to a -state of opulence and prosperity to which it had -been long a stranger. The soil amply repays -the labour, for such is its strength, that a crop -of wheat, before yielding its grain, is twice -mowed down as fodder for cattle, and then ears, -and produces an abundant harvest. The indigo -and sugar crops are likewise rich, and one small -strip of land five miles long, which we passed, -afforded a revenue of 75,000 rupees. The total -revenue amounts to about ten lacs of rupees a -year, or double the sum it produced in 1809.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_304">[304]</span> -The tobacco of Mooltan is celebrated; but, for -an Indian province, the date-tree is its most singular -production. It yields a great abundance -of fruit, which is hardly inferior to that of -Arabia; for the trees are not weakened by extracting -a liquor from them, as in Lower India. I -imagine that they owe their maturity to the -great heat of Mooltan; for dates seldom ripen in -India. The mangoes of Mooltan are the best of -Upper India, and their good qualities seem also -to arise from the same cause, as the mango -is usually but an indifferent fruit beyond the -tropics.</p> - - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_305">[305]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAP_XV">CHAP. XV.<br /> - -<span class="smaller">THE RAVEE, OR HYDRAOTES, BELOW LAHORE.</span></h2> -</div> - - - -<div class="sidenote">The -Ravee.</div> - -<p>The Ravee is the smallest of the five Punjab -rivers, but, in connection with them and the -Indus, forms a navigable channel from the sea -to Lahore. It joins the Chenab in the latitude -of 30° 40´ north, near the small village of Fazil -Shah, by three different mouths, all of which have -eight feet of water. From Lahore downwards, -the Ravee preserves a breadth of about 150 -yards, and, as its banks are high and firm, there -are but few places where it is more expanded. -This river is so winding, that sails cannot be -hoisted, and a day’s voyage often gives but a -direct progress of three or four miles, when the -turnings of the river have been sixfold. Lahore -is only 175 miles from the mouth of the Ravee, -but, by the river, the distance exceeds 380 -British miles.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Its navigation.</div> - -<p>The Ravee is fordable in many places during -eight months in the year, but its general depth -is about twelve feet, and I am satisfied that a -vessel drawing four or five feet of water could -navigate this river. The boats of the country<span class="pagenum" id="Page_306">[306]</span> -do not draw more than two or three, but they -are the common flat-bottomed craft already described. -There is no obstruction to these vessels -in any season of the year, yet the Ravee is not -used by the merchants, and the boats are only -built for purposes of ferrying. Below Lahore -there are fifty-two of them, we ascended in -these vessels, none others being procurable. -The voyage occupied twenty-one days, and was -exceedingly tedious. I am disposed to think -that it is the extreme crookedness of the river -which prevents its being navigated.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Peculiarities -of the -Ravee.</div> - -<p>The Ravee is a foul river, much studded with -sand banks, many of which are dangerous quicksands. -The zigzag course it pursues, bespeaks -the flat nature of the country it traverses; its -banks are more firm and decided than those -of the Indus, or any other of the Punjab rivers. -Near Lahore, they rise sometimes to a perpendicular -height of forty feet; in many places -they attain half that elevation, and give to the -river much the appearance of a canal. The -country bordering on the Ravee is little liable -to be flooded; and it is worthy of remark, -that there are no cuts from this river, for the -purposes of agriculture, below Lahore. Its -current is something less than three miles an -hour. The water is of a reddish colour, like -the Chenab; but it is liable to change, as we<span class="pagenum" id="Page_307">[307]</span> -remarked in our voyage, from the fall of rain in -the mountains. This river is sometimes called -Iräoty, in which we recognise the Hydraotes of -the Greeks.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Towns, and -their inhabitants.</div> - -<p>The banks of the Ravee are open, and peopled -from its mouth upwards; but the villages, for half -the distance to the capital, are of a temporary -description, the moveable hamlets of the pastoral -tribe before mentioned, called Jun or Kattia. -From Futtipoor they are numerous, and the -country is cultivated; but the space below that -town is uncultivated. The tract between the -Ravee and Sutlege is of the same sterile and -unproductive description as on the northern side -of the river towards the Hydaspes. Saltpetre -is manufactured in considerable quantities on -both sides of the Ravee.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Lahore.</div> - -<p>Lahore is the only town of note on the banks -of the Ravee, but the river has lately forsaken -its immediate vicinity, and this ancient capital -now stands on a small branch. The position of -Lahore is good, in a military and commercial -point of view. It is equidistant from Mooltan, -Peshawur, Cashmeer, and I may also add Delhi. -It stands in a most fertile country; and an -army of 80,000 men has been supported on the -resources of its neighbourhood, while the people -assert that provisions have not increased with -the increased demand. The city now contains<span class="pagenum" id="Page_308">[308]</span> -about 80,000 inhabitants. It is surrounded by -a strong brick wall and ditch, that may be -flooded from the river. There are twelve gates, -and as many semicircular outworks. It could -not withstand a siege, from the density of its -population; but might afford security against -irregular troops. Umritsir is superior in size -and strength to Lahore: it is a mud fortification -of great thickness, and about seven miles in -circumference, and also protected by the strong -citadel of Govindghur. It has a population of -about 100,000 souls. Tolumba is a small town -near the estuary of the Ravee, with a population -of about 1500 people. It has a weak brick fort -of a circular shape, and stands in a thick grove -of date trees two miles south of the river.</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="zill_t308b" style="max-width: 125em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/zill_t308b.jpg" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"> - -<div class="center"> -Drawn by W. Purser. Engraved by E. Finden.<br /> -</div> - -<div class="center large"><i>Sindree on the Eastern branch of the Indus.</i></div> - -<div class="center">SINCE SUBMERGED BY THE EARTHQUAKE OF 1819.</div> - -<div class="center"><i>From a sketch taken on the spot by Capt. Grindlay in 1808.</i></div></div> -</div> - - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_309">[309]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAP_XVI">CHAP. XVI.<br /> - - -<span class="smaller">A MEMOIR ON THE EASTERN BRANCH OF THE -INDUS, AND THE RUN OF CUTCH, CONTAINING -AN ACCOUNT OF THE ALTERATIONS PRODUCED -ON THEM BY AN EARTHQUAKE IN 1819, ALSO A -DESCRIPTION OF THE RUN.</span></h2> - -</div> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>[I cannot introduce more appropriately than on the -present occasion, the following paper, which was drawn -up some time since. It is necessary to mention this -circumstance, as a few of the facts communicated are -already before the public, and have been noticed by -Professor Lyell.<a id="FNanchor_29" href="#Footnote_29" class="fnanchor">[29]</a> Of the Run of Cutch I am not -aware of any other account having been published, -though it is a tract without parallel on the globe.]</p> -</div> - - -<div class="sidenote">Cutch, its -position.</div> - -<p>In the north-western extremity of our Indian -possessions, and under the tropic, is situated -the small and sterile territory of Cutch, important -to the British from its advanced position, -but of more attraction to the student of -history, from its western shore being washed by -the waters of the classic Indus. Cutch is a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_310">[310]</span> -country peculiarly situated.—To the west, it -has the inconstant and ever-varying Indus; to -the north and east, the tract called Run, which -is alternately a dry sandy desert and a muddy -inland lake; to the south, it has the Gulf of -Cutch and the Indian Ocean, with waters receding -yearly from its shores.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Alterations -in its -western -coast by an -earthquake.</div> - -<p>The physical geography of such a province -is full of interest; for, besides the alteration in -its fluctuating boundaries, it is subject to earthquakes, -one of which has lately produced some -unlooked for changes in the eastern branch -of the Indus. To particularly detail and explain -these, is the object of the present memoir. - - -<span class="sidenote">Former -fertility.</span> - -Cutch at present labours under disadvantages -inflicted on it by the vindictive hatred of a -jealous and cruel neighbouring Government. -Previous to the battle of Jarra, in the year 1762<a id="FNanchor_30" href="#Footnote_30" class="fnanchor">[30]</a>, -the eastern branch of the Indus, commonly -called the Phurraun, emptied itself into the sea -by passing the western shores of Cutch; and the -country on its banks participated in the advantages -which this river bestows throughout its -course. Its annual inundations watered the soil, -and afforded a plentiful supply of rice; the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_311">[311]</span> -country on its banks being then known by the -name of “Sayra.”</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Sindians -destroy it, -by damming -the -eastern -branch of -the Indus.</div> - -<p>These blessings, which nature had bestowed -on this otherwise barren region, perished with -the battle of Jarra; for the Sindian chief, irritated -at the unsuccessful result of his expedition, returned -to his country full of vengeance, and -inflicted the deepest injury on the country which -he had failed to humble. At the village of -Mora he threw up a mound of earth, or, as it -is called, a “bund,” across that branch of the -Indus which fertilised Cutch, and by thus -turning the stream, which so much benefited its -inhabitants, to flow into other branches of the -river, and by leading it through canals to desert -portions of his own dominions, he at once destroyed -a large and rich tract of irrigated land, -and converted a productive rice country, which -had belonged to Cutch, into a sandy desert.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Injury of -the “bund” -or dam, on -the tract -near.</div> - -<p>The mound which had been raised, did not -entirely exclude the water of the Indus from -Cutch; but so impeded the progress of the -main stream, that all agriculture depending on -irrigation ceased. In process of time this trivial -remnant of prosperity disappeared, and the -Talpoors, who succeeded the Kaloras in the -government of Sinde, threw up other mounds; -and about the year 1802, the erection of one at -Ali Bunder excluded the waters of the Indus,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_312">[312]</span> -even at the period of inundation, from the -channel which had once conveyed them past -Cutch to the sea. Since then, the stripe of land -which once formed the fertile district of Sayra -ceased to yield a blade of vegetation, and became -a part of the Run of Cutch, on which it had -formerly bordered. The channel of the river -at the town of Lucput shallowed<a id="FNanchor_31" href="#Footnote_31" class="fnanchor">[31]</a>; and, above -Sindree, filled with mud, and dried up. Lower -down it changed into an arm of the sea, and was -flooded at every tide.</p> - -<p>The Raos, or Princes of Cutch, possessed at -one time military stations in three different -places of Sinde,—Budeenu, Ballyaree, and Raomaka-bazar,—yet -they submissively bore these -indignities, as well to their own detriment as that -of their subjects. They used no exertion to -recover that which nature had bestowed on their -country, or to wipe off those injuries which had -been offered, at variance, as they no doubt were, -with the law of nations, which requires “that -different nations ought, in time of peace, to do -one another all the good they can, and in time -of war, as little harm as possible, without prejudice -to their own real interests.”<a id="FNanchor_32" href="#Footnote_32" class="fnanchor">[32]</a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_313">[313]</span></p><div class="sidenote">Earthquake -of -1819 overwhelms -Sindree: -forms a -lake.</div> - -<p>In this state of indifference, there occurred, in -June, 1819, a severe shock of an earthquake, by -which some hundreds of the inhabitants of Cutch -perished, and every fortified stronghold in the -country was shaken to its foundations. Wells -and rivulets without number changed from -fresh to salt water; but these were trifling -alterations, compared with those which took -place in the eastern branch of the Indus, and the -adjacent country. At sunset, the shock was felt -at Sindree, the station at which the Cutch -Government levied their customs, situated on the -high road from Cutch to Sinde, and on the banks -of what had been once the eastern branch of the -Indus. The little brick fort of 150 feet square, -which had been built there for the protection of -merchandise, was overwhelmed by an inundating -torrent of water from the ocean, which spread -on every side, and, in the course of a few hours, -converted the tract, which had before been hard -and dry, into an inland lake, which extended for -sixteen miles on either side of Sindree. The -houses within the walls filled with water, and -eight years afterwards I found fish in the pools -among them. The only dry spot was the place -on which the bricks had fallen upon one -another. One of four towers only remained, -and the custom-house officers had saved their -lives by ascending it, and were eventually<span class="pagenum" id="Page_314">[314]</span> -transported to dry land by boats on the following -day.<a id="FNanchor_33" href="#Footnote_33" class="fnanchor">[33]</a></p> - -<div class="sidenote">Raises up a -mound -called -“Ullah -bund.”</div> - -<p>But it was soon discovered that this was not -the only alteration in this memorable convulsion -of nature; as the inhabitants of Sindree observed, -at a distance of five miles northward, a mound -of earth or sand, in a place where the soil was -previously low and level. It extended east and -west for a considerable distance, and passed -immediately across the channel of the Indus, -separating as it were for ever the Phurraun river -from the sea. The natives called this mound -by the name of “Ullah bund,” or the mound of -God, in allusion to its not being, like the other -dams of the Indus, a work of man, but a dam -thrown up by nature.</p> - -<p>These wonderful events passed unheeded by -the inhabitants; for the deep injury which had -been inflicted on Cutch in 1762 had so thoroughly -ruined that part of the country, that it was a -matter of indifference whether it continued a -desert, or became an inland lake. A feeble and -unsuccessful attempt was made by Cutch to -establish a Custom-house on the newly raised<span class="pagenum" id="Page_315">[315]</span> -dam of “Ullah bund,” but to this the Ameers of -Sinde objected, and Sindree being no longer -tenable, the officers were withdrawn to the mainland -of Cutch.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">An overflow -of the -Indus destroys -it in -1826.</div> - -<p>Matters continued in this state till the month -of November, 1826, when information was received -that the Indus had burst its banks in -Upper Sinde, and that an immense volume of -water had spread over the desert which bounds -that country to the eastward, had likewise burst -every artificial dam in the river, as well as the -“Ullah bund,” and forced for itself a passage -to the Run of Cutch. - - -<span class="sidenote">Actual -state of the -river.</span> -In March, 1827, I -proceeded to investigate the truth of what I -have stated, to examine the natural mound, -and to endeavour to account for these constant -alterations in physical geography. I journeyed -from Bhooj, the capital of Cutch, to Lucput, -a town on the north-western extremity of the -province, situated on the Koree, or eastern -branch of the Indus. Here I embarked in a -small flat-bottomed boat, and sailed up the river. -At Lucput, and for twelve miles up, it was -about 300 yards wide, and from two to three -fathoms deep, retaining all the appearance of a -river. At Sundo, a sand bank so called, which is -about four leagues distant from that town, the -channel shallowed to four or five feet, for two miles; -but then regaining its depth, I entered on a vast<span class="pagenum" id="Page_316">[316]</span> -inland lake that bounded the horizon on all sides, -amid which the remaining tower of Sindree -stood, like a rock in the ocean. At Sundo -the water was brackish, at Sindree it was quite -fresh. Hence I proceeded to “Ullah bund,” -which I found to be composed of soft clay and -shells, elevated about ten feet from the surface -of the water, and cut through like a canal, -with perpendicular banks on either side. The -channel was about <i>thirty-five yards</i> broad, and -<i>three fathoms</i> deep; and a body of fresh water, -a portion of the real Indus, rolled down it into -the lake which I had traversed, below “Ullah -bund.” Here the stream took on once more -the appearance of a river, and I found several -boats laden with “ghee” (clarified butter), -which had descended it from Wunga, and thus -corroborated all which I had heard, that the -bunds of the Indus had been burst, and that -the communication between the great river and -its eastern and long-forsaken branch was once -more restored. I learned likewise that the far-famed -fortress of Omercote had been partially -overwhelmed in this inundation; for instead of -<i>being an öasis in the desert</i>, as had long been -supposed, this birthplace of the great Acbar is -a small brick fort only three or four miles distant -from the Indus, and between which and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_317">[317]</span> -Lucput, so late as May, 1829, there was a communication -by water.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Ullah bund -described.</div> - -<p>The “Ullah bund,” which I now examined -with attention, was, however, the most singular -consequence of this great earthquake. To the -eye it did not appear more elevated in one place -than another, and could be traced both east and -west as far as it could reach; the natives assigned -to it a total length of fifty miles. It must not, -however, be supposed to be a narrow stripe like -an artificial dam, as it extends inland to Raomaka-bazar, -perhaps to a breadth of sixteen miles, -and appeared to be a great upheaving of nature. -Its surface was covered with saline soil, and I -have already stated that it consisted of clay, -shells, and sand. The people universally attributed -this bund to the influence of the earthquake, -and also assigned the shallowness of the -river at Sundo to the same cause.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Opinions -regarding -the effects -of the -earthquake.</div> - -<p>The inland lake which had been thus formed, -extended for about 2000 square miles, and its -limits were well defined, since the roads from -Cutch to Sinde passed on either side of it. The -one led from Nurra to Loonee and Raomaka-bazar, -and the other from Lucput to Kotree -Garee and the Jattee. I am disposed to believe -that this sheet of water has collected from a -depression of the country round Sindree; for the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_318">[318]</span> -earthquake had an immediate influence on the -channel of the river below “Ullah bund,” which -became deep enough to be navigable for boats -of 100 tons from the sea to Lucput, which had -never been the case since 1762. While the basin -of Sindree, as I may call it, was depressed, it is -evident that the mound of “Ullah bund” was -raised at the same time, as the description -already given will have satisfactorily shown.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Subsequent -alterations -in the -Indus.</div> - -<p>In the month of August, in the year 1827, I -proceeded a second time to the eastern branch -of the Indus, to make further investigations regarding -a subject on which many individuals, as -well as myself, had taken an interest. Great -alterations had taken place in this changeable -country; the river and lake were deeper in all -places by two feet, the channel through “Ullah -bund” was much widened, and the sheet of -water was now entirely and every where salt. -The stream which passed “Ullah bund” was -fresh, but greatly diminished in size: in the -time that had intervened between my visits, -the south-westerly winds had prevailed, and -blown the sea water in upon the fresh, which, -appeared to account for the change that had -taken place.</p> - -<p>Besides the facts which have been recorded, -it appears clear that a portion of the waters of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_319">[319]</span> -the Indus have a tendency to escape by Lucput -and Cutch. We find an inundation of the river -seeking an old channel which had been deserted -by them for sixty-five years.<a id="FNanchor_34" href="#Footnote_34" class="fnanchor">[34]</a></p> - - -<h3>THE RUN.</h3> - -<div class="sidenote">Run of -Cutch.</div> - -<p>In the course of my observations on the Indus, -I found myself drawn into many inquiries regarding -the Run of Cutch, to which that river -adjoins; for if the alterations in the river afforded -room for remark, there was also much to be said -on the Run, which is a tract, I believe, without a -counterpart in the globe. In length, the Run -extends from the Indus to the western confines -of Guzerat, a distance of about 200 British -miles. In breadth, it is about thirty-five miles; -but there are, besides, various belts and ramifications, -which give it an extent of about 7000 -square miles. It is accurately delineated in -the map. The whole tract may truly be said -to be a “terra hospitibus ferox;” fresh water -is never to be had any where but on islands, -and there it is scarce; it has no herbage, -and vegetable life is only discernible in the -shape of a stunted tamarisk bush, which thrives<span class="pagenum" id="Page_320">[320]</span> -by its suction of the rain water that falls near -it. It differs as widely from what is termed -the sandy desert, as it differs from the cultivated -plain; neither does it resemble the Steppes -of Russia; but may be justly considered of a -nature peculiar to itself. It has been denominated -a marsh by geographers, which has -given rise to many erroneous impressions regarding -it. It has none of the characteristics -of one: it is not covered or saturated with water, -but at certain periods; it has neither weeds nor -grass in its bed, which, instead of being slimy, -is hard, dry, and sandy, of such a consistency as -never to become clayey, unless from a long continuance -of water on an individual spot; nor is it -otherwise fenny or swampy. It is a vast expanse -of flat, hardened, sand, encrusted with salt -sometimes an inch deep (the water having been -evaporated by the sun), and at others, beautifully -crystallized in large lumps. So much is -the whole surrounding country corrupted by -this exuberance of salt, that all the wells dug -on a level with the Run become salt. The -depression of the Run below the level of the -surrounding country at once suggests the probability -of its being a dried up lake or sea.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Mirage of -the Run.</div> - -<p>Nowhere is that singular phenomenon, the -<i>mirage or surab</i> of the desert, seen with greater -advantage than in the Run. The natives aptly<span class="pagenum" id="Page_321">[321]</span> -term it smoke<a id="FNanchor_35" href="#Footnote_35" class="fnanchor">[35]</a>; the smallest shrubs at a distance -assume the appearance of forests; and on -a nearer approach, sometimes that of ships in -full sail, at others that of breakers on a rock. -In one instance I observed a cluster of bushes, -which looked like a pier, with tall-masted vessels -lying close to it; and on approaching, not a bank -was near the shrubs to account for the deception. -From the Run, the hills of Cutch appear more -lofty, and to have merged into the clouds, their -bases being obscured by vapour. The wild ass<a id="FNanchor_36" href="#Footnote_36" class="fnanchor">[36]</a> -is the only inhabitant of this desolate region; -they roam about in flocks, “scorning the multitude -of the city, and make the wilderness -and barren lands their dwelling.” Their size -does not much exceed that of the common ass, -but, at a short distance, they sometimes appear as -large as elephants. While the sun shines, the whole -surrounding space of Run resembles a vast expanse -of water—the appearance it commonly -assumes—and which is only to be distinguished -from real water by those who are long habituated -to such visionary illusions. When the -sun is not shining, the Run appears higher at -a distance; but this has been remarked of the -sea, and other extensive sheets of water, and -is also to be accounted for in the deception of -vision.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_322">[322]</span></p><div class="sidenote">Traditions -regarding -the Run.</div> - -<p>The natives of Cutch, Mahommedans as well -as Hindoos, believe that the Run was formerly -a sea; and a tradition is in the mouth of every -one, that a Hindoo saint, by name Dhoorumnath, -a Jogee<a id="FNanchor_37" href="#Footnote_37" class="fnanchor">[37]</a>, underwent penance by standing on -his head for twelve years on the summit of -Denodur, one of the highest hills in Cutch, -which overlooks the Run. When his penance -terminated, God became visible to him, the hill -on which he stood split in two, and the adjacent -sea (the present Run) dried up; the ships and -boats which then navigated it were overturned, -its harbours destroyed, and many wonderful -events happened. There is no race of people who -have recourse to supernatural agency in their -chronicles, more than the natives of India; and, -to those accustomed to enquire into them, the -circumstances just recorded will appear as the -graft of one of their tales on some real event -which has actually occurred, and is thus transmitted -to posterity. Considering the frequent -occurrence of earthquakes in Cutch, the volcanic -appearance of’ its hills, and the lava which<span class="pagenum" id="Page_323">[323]</span> -covers the face of the country, it is to a convulsion -of nature, in all probability, that we -are to attribute the foundation of such a tradition.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Concurring -traditions.</div> - -<p>The natives, however, carry their traditions -beyond the vague legends of a saint, and point -out at this day different positions, said to have -been harbours, in the Run of Cutch. At Nerona, -which is a village about twenty miles NNW. -of Bhooj the capital, and close to the Run, there -is said to have been a sea-port, which is thus -described in the poesy of the <span class="lock">country:—</span></p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“Nerona nuggartur</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Judhee Goontree Chitrano.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>In other words, that Nerona was a sea-port (tur), -when Goontree (an ancient city in Cutch) -flourished in the neighbouring district of Chitrano. -At Charee, a village westward of Nerona, -and on the Run, there is also a like tradition. -The people of the Puchum, the largest island -on the Run, have similar traditions, and speak -of boats having been wrecked on the hills of the -island; also that there were considerable harbours -near them, called Dorut, Doh or Dohee, and -Phangwuro, which are yet pointed out to the -westward of Puchum. Bitaro, a small place on -the high road to Sinde, between Cutch and -“Ullah Bund,” is also said to have been a sea-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_324">[324]</span>port, -and I could point out several others. Nor -are the traditions less concurrent on the Sinde, -or northern side of the Run: Veego-gud, near -“Ullah Bund,” is said to have been the principal -sea-port, and its brick ruins are yet visible. -Vingur and Ballyaree, which lie eastward, claim -likewise the same privileges. This sea had the -name of “Kiln;” nor do I believe that the testimony -of so many people, regarding it, can be -discredited, informed as I was of these traditions -by different persons, who had no communication -with one another.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Effects of -a late -earthquake -on the Run.</div> - -<p>The effects of the earthquake of 1819 have -been already mentioned, in so far as relates to -the country adjoining the Indus; but occurrences -of an equally singular nature happened -farther eastward. It made numerous cracks or -fissures in the Run; and I state, on the authority -of eye-witnesses, that immense quantities of -black, muddy water were ejected from these -openings for a period of three days, and that -the water bubbled out of the wells of the tract -bordering on the Run, called Bunnee, till it -overwhelmed the country in some place with six, -and even ten feet of water. The shepherds -with difficulty saved themselves and their flocks. -During this time numerous pieces of iron and -ship-nails were thrown up at Phangwuro, the -sea-port before mentioned; and similar things<span class="pagenum" id="Page_325">[325]</span> -have been since found in the same neighbourhood -while digging tanks. I give this fact on the -authority of respectable men at Nurra, who also -assured me that nothing of the kind had ever been -discovered before the earthquake of 1819.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Flooding -of the Run.</div> - -<p>The grand Run of Cutch is that part which -lies between Sinde and the islands of Puchum -and Khureer, the other parts being but ramifications -of it. It has a communication with the -sea both on the east and west, by means of the -Gulf of Cutch and a branch of the Indus, and -it is flooded from both these openings as soon as -the south-westerly winds set in, about April -each year. When local rain falls and moistens -the Run, the sea enters with great rapidity, and -insulates the province of Cutch for some months; -but even without rain the greater portion of the -Run is annually flooded. The level of the Run -is obviously higher than the sea, since it requires -strong winds to blow the waters of the ocean -over it.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Configuration -of the -Run borders.</div> - -<p>We must now attend to the configuration of -the Run. In the north-eastern extremity of -Cutch, it will be observed that a chain of hills -overhangs the Run at Bheyla: they are about -300 feet high, and terminate abruptly. The -islands of Khureer and Puchum lie due west of -this range, and are not only composed of the -same sort of ironstone as the Bheyla hills, but<span class="pagenum" id="Page_326">[326]</span> -have similar ranges running through their -northern extremities, which terminate, particularly -at Khureer, in a bluff and abrupt outline -towards the Run. Khureer is six miles westward -of Cutch, and Puchum is about sixteen -from Khureer; westward of Puchum there are -a few low and sandy islets on the Run, and -south of it lies the Bunnee, an extensive tract -of grassland, of greater elevation than the Run, -but not sufficiently so to yield grain. It has -many wells, and is inhabited by a pastoral race. -South of Khureer there are also many islands, -the largest of which is Gangta, and covered -with rocky hills. Between Guzerat and Cutch -the Run is narrow; at Addysir it is but a mile and -a half wide to the island of Chorar. Here there -is a deposit of shells and marine matter, a carbonate -of lime mixed with other substances; it -has a red and yellow petrified appearance, takes -on a tolerably good polish, and from which some -members of the faithful pretend to read Arabic -words, or letters of the Koran. It was used in -the mosaic works of all the Moghul emperors, -and is commonly called Dookur-warra marble -by Europeans. North of the Bheyla hills lies -Parkur, a district peninsulated by the Run, -having the lofty hills of Kalinjur, of a formation -differing from Cutch, where they are almost all -sandstone. They are primitive rocks, rising in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_327">[327]</span> -small cones one upon another, as if they had -dropped from the clouds; the summit is composed -of trap, which extends for about a third of -the way down, and the base is red granite, which -rings when struck. These hills are separated -from Cutch by a low tract of the Run, upwards of -thirty miles broad, without an intervening bush. -The whole northern face of Cutch, from Bheyla -on the east to Lucput on the west, presents, -with a few exceptions, either a rocky or an elevated -bank. From Nurra to Lucput the rocks terminate -abruptly, and form what would be called -capes, cliffs, and promontories, if the water -washed under them. When the immediate -vicinity of the Run is not of this description, -it stretches inland, exactly as water would do -when not resisted.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Run supposed -to -have been -an inland -sea.</div> - -<p>The sea is receding from the southern shores -of Cutch; and I believe it is a generally received -conclusion, that there is a depression of its level -throughout the globe, though in some places it -has risen. We may, therefore, suppose the -ocean to have receded from the Run of Cutch, -and that that tract was at one time a navigable -sea. That the natives should attribute so -great a change in a part of their country to -the influence of a Jogee, is not wonderful. A -body of these persons has been long settled in -Cutch. They are a philanthropic and hospi<span class="pagenum" id="Page_328">[328]</span>table -body of men, who permit no one of any -persuasion to leave their door hungry, and they -are blessed with plenty. Like the monks in -Europe in former days, these Jogees are the -repository of history and traditions, and it may -be their careful preservation of them, which -has given rise to the belief that the alterations -in the Run were accomplished in the time -of Dhoorumnath, the founder of their order. -In proof of this, they have a tradition that the -ancestors of the present rulers of Cutch were -once a class of poor shepherds from Samee -(Tatta), in Sinde, and fed their flocks, till -patronised by the Denodur Jogees, who raised -them to be Rajahs of the country. So far is this -true, the Rajpoots of Cutch did come from -Tatta, and did tend herds of cattle in Cutch; -but they were certainly not raised to their present -elevation by the intercession of some Hindoo -monks; yet such is the alteration which a story -undergoes, in the course of four hundred years.<a id="FNanchor_38" href="#Footnote_38" class="fnanchor">[38]</a></p> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_329">[329]</span></p> - -<h3>NOTE ON SINDREE.</h3> - -<p>I annex the following extract, describing a -journey from Lucput in Cutch, to Hydrabad in -Sinde, by way of Sindree, from the MS. of -Captain R. M. Grindlay, written in the year -1808, when with a mission to the Ameers of -Sinde, and which has been kindly furnished to -me. It will be seen that the neighbourhood of -Sindree, which I have described to be under -water, was then dry, and that the fort of Sindree -existed at that time, as an outpost of the Cutch -Government.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>“We embarked on the creek at Lucput Bender, -which is about three quarters of a mile broad, and -runs between east and north, for six or eight miles, -when it begins to narrow very much: the shore on -each side is a wet marsh, covered with short bushes.</p> - -<p>“In the evening we anchored at the turn of the tide,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_330">[330]</span> -and at twelve o’clock next day we passed Sindree, -which is about thirty miles from Lucput, and dependent -on it, with a small garrison of sepoys: it is a small -fort, with a few huts outside, and one well: the creek -here is about a mile and a quarter broad, and has a -ferry across. The travellers who take this route to -Sinde are not numerous, and leave no vestige of a -road in the light sand, of which the dry part of the -Run is composed. The heat of the meridian sun is said -to be so intense, that they generally travel in the -night. From Sindree, by land, the next stage is about -twenty-four miles to Baura, after which the Run ends, -and water becomes tolerably plentiful.</p> - -<p>“We passed Sindree, and observed several inferior -branches leading through the Run, among which we -saw a few straggling men and women; about twenty -miles beyond Sindree, we reached Aly Bunder, at -eight o’clock at night, and came to anchor close to the -mound which confines the fresh water: when the day -appeared, we observed it to be a poor mud village, of -about fifty huts, and a tower of the same unsubstantial -materials. Here we encamped for the purpose -of collecting the boats from the freshwater side of the -mound, and not finding a sufficient number, several -of those we brought with us were dragged over: this, -however, was a work of three days; and, during that -time, from the nature of the soil, we were annoyed by -the dust in such a manner as would scarcely be -believed by those who had not been in a similar -situation: the sun was completely obscured by it, -an object at the distance of 100 yards was invisible; -and the natives moving about were so disguised, that -their colour was not distinguishable. The soil of the -Run is a mixture of fine sand and the salt deposited<span class="pagenum" id="Page_331">[331]</span> -by the inundation. This, dried by several months’ sun, -becomes a most impalpable powder. The Run, which -ceases about a line with Aly Bunder, from north-east -and north, is covered with aquatic bushes and a few -shells: the sand entangled amongst these bushes forms -hillocks of various heights, from five to fifteen feet, -according to the size of the bush. It does not appear -that any of the side channels lead beyond the -Run, or that any of them are navigated by boats, -except those which again join the main stream: that -by which we came is certainly by far the most considerable.</p> - -<p>“On the 10th we embarked again on the freshwater -river, which is there about 400 yards broad, and soon -after widens very much, with high sand-hills on the -banks, and a few huts with a little cultivation. The -river here takes the name of Goonee.</p> - -<p>“At the distance of about twelve miles from Aly -Bunder, the river divides, and soon after becomes so -narrow, that our boats, though not large, had difficulty -in passing through the large bushes which overhang -the bank, and has great appearance of a cut canal, or -at least of a channel cleared out and deepened; the -banks are irregular in their height, and the land -immediately beyond them low, and in several places -swampy. We passed the mouth of a creek on the -west, said to lead to Tatta, besides several other inferior -streams which run through the country, and are -cut into a variety of channels, for the purposes of -cultivation.</p> - -<p>“About ten miles beyond Aly Bunder, on the west -bank, is Chuttee Thur (or ferry), opposite to which is -the mouth of a considerable stream, with a dam across, -which we understood to be the Phoran. This was<span class="pagenum" id="Page_332">[332]</span> -formerly a very large branch of the Indus, and ran -past Nusserpoor, which I learn is to the south-east. -Many of the inhabitants of that place recollect a -remarkable change in the river: the inundation swallowed -up a great part of the town, and altered the -course of the river, which since then has had much -less water in it. The whole of Sinde, from the nature -of its soil, is subject to these alterations by the annual -floods, many striking instances of which the inhabitants -are well acquainted with, particularly that which -I have already mentioned, and the great alterations in -the branches below Tatta.”—<i>See Captain Grindley’s -Journal in MS.</i></p> -</div> - -<p class="p2 center"> -THE END.</p> - -<p class="p2 center smaller"> -<span class="smcap">London</span>:<br /> -Printed by <span class="smcap">A. Spottiswoode</span>,<br /> -New-Street-Square. -</p> - - - - - -<div class="chapter footnotes p4"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="FOOTNOTES">FOOTNOTES</h2> - - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_1" href="#FNanchor_1" class="label">[1]</a> Lord Ellenborough, then President of the India Board.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_2" href="#FNanchor_2" class="label">[2]</a> Arrian, lib. vi. c. 19.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_3" href="#FNanchor_3" class="label">[3]</a> An officer who receives a guest.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_4" href="#FNanchor_4" class="label">[4]</a> Banians.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_5" href="#FNanchor_5" class="label">[5]</a> Arrian, lib. 6.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_6" href="#FNanchor_6" class="label">[6]</a> The species hunted in Sinde is called “hotapuchu:” it -is a kind of hog deer.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_7" href="#FNanchor_7" class="label">[7]</a> Narrative of a Visit to the Court of Sinde. Edin. 1831.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_8" href="#FNanchor_8" class="label">[8]</a> It would appear from this, that they smoked in that -age: it must have been <i>bang</i>, or hemp, since tobacco was -unknown till the discovery of America.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_9" href="#FNanchor_9" class="label">[9]</a> Ayeen Acbaree.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_10" href="#FNanchor_10" class="label">[10]</a> It was my conversation with these men which made me -decide on undertaking the journey to Central Asia, which I -afterwards performed.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_11" href="#FNanchor_11" class="label">[11]</a> “May the Gooroo be victorious,” the national war-cry of -the Seiks.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_12" href="#FNanchor_12" class="label">[12]</a> Salvadora Persica.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_13" href="#FNanchor_13" class="label">[13]</a> God.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_14" href="#FNanchor_14" class="label">[14]</a> My journey to Bokhara made me better acquainted with -these topes, as has already appeared in Vol. I.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_15" href="#FNanchor_15" class="label">[15]</a> Instead of giving separate maps of the Indus and Central Asia, -I have now combined the whole of the geographical matter in one -map, as has already been explained.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_16" href="#FNanchor_16" class="label">[16]</a> These have been necessarily omitted in the reduced map.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_17" href="#FNanchor_17" class="label">[17]</a> In this part of my subject, I have to express my fullest -acknowledgments to Mr. James Prinsep, Secretary to the -Asiatic Society of Calcutta, who has kindly afforded me his -valuable assistance.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_18" href="#FNanchor_18" class="label">[18]</a> As this work is passing through the press, intelligence -has reached England of the death of this Ameer, which has -been followed by a civil war.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_19" href="#FNanchor_19" class="label">[19]</a> The death of the last Ameer has amply verified such a -supposition.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_20" href="#FNanchor_20" class="label">[20]</a> This limited extent of the delta of the Indus is quite -inconsistent with the dimensions assigned to it by the Greeks. -Arrian informs us that the two great branches below Pattala -are about 1800 stadia distant from each other, “and so much -is the extent of the island Pattala along the sea coast.” -The distance of 125 British miles, the face of the modern -delta, does not amount to 1125 stadia, or little more than -one half the assigned distance of Arrian. On this point the -Greeks had not personal observation to guide them, since -Nearchus sailed out of the western branch of the Indus, and -Alexander made but a three days’ journey between the two -branches of the river, and could not have entered Cutch, as -has been surmised by Dr. Vincent.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_21" href="#FNanchor_21" class="label">[21]</a> See “A Memoir” regarding this mouth, at the end of -the volume, which contains an account of some singular -alterations in physical geography, as well as a notice of the -Run of Cutch.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_22" href="#FNanchor_22" class="label">[22]</a> By Mr. Crow.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_23" href="#FNanchor_23" class="label">[23]</a> Mimosa Arabica.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_24" href="#FNanchor_24" class="label">[24]</a> Melia Azadarachta.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_25" href="#FNanchor_25" class="label">[25]</a> Ficus religiosa.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_26" href="#FNanchor_26" class="label">[26]</a> Vide lib. v. c. 7.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_27" href="#FNanchor_27" class="label">[27]</a> A more full account of the Punjab has been given in -Vol. II., which was drawn up after my last visit to that -country.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_28" href="#FNanchor_28" class="label">[28]</a> We performed the voyage from one junction to the -other, in six days, against the stream.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_29" href="#FNanchor_29" class="label">[29]</a> See “Principles of Geology,” by Charles Lyell, Esq., -F.R.S. London, vol. ii. 1832.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_30" href="#FNanchor_30" class="label">[30]</a> This battle was fought near a small village of that name. -The inhabitants of Cutch made a brave stand for their independence -against a Sindian army led by Ghoolam Shah -Kulora.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_31" href="#FNanchor_31" class="label">[31]</a> Captain (now Lieut.-Col.) D. Wilson, of the Bombay -army, found a ford here in 1820, in a part of the river 500 -yards wide. In 1826, I found a depth of fifteen feet in the -same place.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_32" href="#FNanchor_32" class="label">[32]</a> Blackstone.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_33" href="#FNanchor_33" class="label">[33]</a> Since my return to England, I have been so fortunate as -to procure a view of Sindree, as it existed in the year 1808, -from a sketch by Captain Grindlay, who visited it at that -time. It has been engraved for this work, and faces -Chap. XVI. Captain Grindlay’s observations on Sindree -follow in a note.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_34" href="#FNanchor_34" class="label">[34]</a> I have suppressed various opinions which I had formed -on the causes of these constant changes, deeming them of -small value. The paper has been also published at length -by the Royal Asiatic Society of London.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_35" href="#FNanchor_35" class="label">[35]</a> Dhooan.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_36" href="#FNanchor_36" class="label">[36]</a> Called “Khur-gudha” by the natives.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_37" href="#FNanchor_37" class="label">[37]</a> This class of people are yet numerous in Cutch: it is -among them that the horrid custom called “traga” prevails. -It consists in sacrificing one of their number when any -injury or oppression is offered to their community, under a -belief that the blood so shed rests on the head of those who -oppress them.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_38" href="#FNanchor_38" class="label">[38]</a> I have since found, in some manuscript papers of the -late lamented Captain M‘Murdo, written as long since as -1815, that he formed similar conclusions with myself regarding -the Run of Cutch. He is treating of that part of -it near Kattywar, of which I have not spoken, and the following -extract is both curious and satisfactory:—-</p> - -<p>“The Runn has every appearance of the sea having -shortly withdrawn from it. This is supported by the -semblance and production of the neighbouring country, -and large stones are found on the shore several miles from -the present Runn, of a description similar to those used -as anchors; they have holes bored through for the cable. -On the shore, at different places, are shown small ancient -buildings, called Dan Derees, or houses where the dan -or customs were collected; and, in short, it is a tradition -in the country, that Khor, a village two miles east of -Teekir, was a sea-port town. About fifty years since, the -wreck of a vessel, of a size far beyond that of any of the -craft now in use in the Gulf of Cutch, was discovered at -Wawania, sunk in the mud about fifteen feet deep.”—<i>Captain -M‘Murdo’s MS. Memoir on Kattywar, August, 1815.</i></p> - -</div> - -</div> - - -<div class="chapter transnote p4"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="Transcribers_Note">Transcriber's Note</h2> - - - -<p>The following apparent errors have been corrected:</p> - -<ul> -<li>p. x "and, the Indus" changed to "and the Indus"</li> - -<li>p. xv "Advance so Lahore" changed to "Advance to Lahore"</li> - -<li>p. xix "Umritsirr" changed to "Umritsir"</li> - -<li>p. 22 "voyage to Labore" changed to "voyage to Lahore"</li> - -<li>p. 33 "ridge near it," changed to "ridge near it."</li> - -<li>p. 34 "India,” that" changed to ""India,” that"</li> - -<li>p. 83 "various Beloche" changed to "various Beloochee"</li> - -<li>p. 113 "been throughly" changed to "been thoroughly"</li> - -<li>p. 115 (sidenote) "of Mooltan" changed to "of Mooltan."</li> - -<li>pp. 117-8 "was as fol" changed to "was as follows"</li> - -<li>p. 122 "branch from it," changed to "branch from it."</li> - -<li>p. 144 "royal foostool" changed to "royal footstool"</li> - -<li>p. 201 "The are about 700" changed to "There are about 700"</li> - -<li>p. 267 "Bukkur, it" changed to "Bukkur, its"</li> - -<li>p. 308 "Umritoir is superior" changed to "Umritsir is superior"</li> - -<li>p. 316 "at Sundree it was" changed to "at Sindree it was"</li> -</ul> - - -<p>Inconsistent or archaic spelling and punctuation have otherwise been kept as printed.</p> - - -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin-top:4em'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS INTO BOKHARA (VOLUME 3 OF 3) ***</div> -<div style='text-align:left'> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Updated editions will replace the previous one—the old editions will -be renamed. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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