diff options
| author | nfenwick <nfenwick@pglaf.org> | 2025-01-22 16:27:40 -0800 |
|---|---|---|
| committer | nfenwick <nfenwick@pglaf.org> | 2025-01-22 16:27:40 -0800 |
| commit | a5cd45202d0a6f6a514136e92f3402602ffcff89 (patch) | |
| tree | ab39dd6dc127f9eb56a3546573e711c8e6db3d43 | |
| parent | ba2ee756bb491c6ca649f823bfc6eb21ccb8f665 (diff) | |
| -rw-r--r-- | .gitattributes | 4 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | LICENSE.txt | 11 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | README.md | 2 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/66355-0.txt | 3877 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/66355-0.zip | bin | 87052 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/66355-h.zip | bin | 2298311 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/66355-h/66355-h.htm | 5513 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/66355-h/images/i_024.jpg | bin | 66629 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/66355-h/images/i_031.jpg | bin | 55476 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/66355-h/images/i_040.jpg | bin | 60622 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/66355-h/images/i_063.jpg | bin | 57156 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/66355-h/images/i_080.jpg | bin | 46465 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/66355-h/images/i_087.jpg | bin | 71923 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/66355-h/images/i_096.jpg | bin | 63726 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/66355-h/images/i_103.jpg | bin | 57354 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/66355-h/images/i_120.jpg | bin | 73277 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/66355-h/images/i_139.jpg | bin | 63502 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/66355-h/images/i_145.jpg | bin | 54341 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/66355-h/images/i_154.jpg | bin | 54201 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/66355-h/images/i_160.jpg | bin | 64425 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/66355-h/images/i_183.jpg | bin | 59144 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/66355-h/images/i_192.jpg | bin | 59617 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/66355-h/images/i_212a.jpg | bin | 9475 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/66355-h/images/i_212b.jpg | bin | 8518 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/66355-h/images/i_cover.jpg | bin | 111209 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/66355-h/images/i_frontis.jpg | bin | 57787 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/66355-h/images/i_map.jpg | bin | 53857 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/66355-h/images/i_map_large.jpg | bin | 1025832 -> 0 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/66355-h/images/i_title.jpg | bin | 27914 -> 0 bytes |
29 files changed, 17 insertions, 9390 deletions
diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..3fb1d4d --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #66355 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/66355) diff --git a/old/66355-0.txt b/old/66355-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index af9f704..0000000 --- a/old/66355-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3877 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Canary Islands, by Florence Du -Cane - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this eBook. - -Title: The Canary Islands - -Author: Florence Du Cane - -Artist: Ella Du Cane - -Release Date: September 21, 2021 [eBook #66355] - -Language: English - -Produced by: Fay Dunn, Fiona Holmes and the Online Distributed - Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was - produced from images generously made available by The - Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CANARY ISLANDS *** - - - -Transcriber’s Notes. - -In the Contents List, a V has been added to show VI. - -Page 35 — swalwart changed to stalwart (two stalwart girls). - -Page 41 — form changed to from (entirely hidden from our eyes). - -Page 165 — iberty changed to liberty (“fly-flappers” were set - at liberty). - -Hyphenation has been standardised. - - -[Illustration: A PATIO] - - THE - CANARY ISLANDS - - BY - FLORENCE DU CANE - - - WITH 16 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS - IN COLOUR BY ELLA DU CANE - - - A. & C. BLACK LTD. - 4, 5 & 6 SOHO SQUARE, LONDON, W.1. - - PRINTED IN GREAT BRITAIN - _First published in 1911_ - -CONTENTS - - - I - PAGE - TENERIFFE 1 - - II - TENERIFFE (_continued_) 21 - - III - TENERIFFE (_continued_) 32 - - IV - TENERIFFE (_continued_) 50 - - V - TENERIFFE (_continued_) 68 - - VI - TENERIFFE (_continued_) 84 - - VII - TENERIFFE (_continued_) 93 - - VIII - GRAND CANARY 105 - - IX - GRAND CANARY (_continued_) 115 - - X - GRAND CANARY (_continued_) 127 - - XI - LA PALMA 136 - - XII - GOMERA 146 - - XIII - FUERTEVENTURA, LANZAROTE AND HIERRO 151 - - XIV - HISTORICAL SKETCH 160 - - - - -LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS - - - 1. A PATIO _Frontispiece_ - - FACING PAGE - - 2. A STREET IN PUERTO OROTAVA 16 - - 3. THE PEAK, FROM VILLA OROTAVA 21 - - 4. REALEJO ALTO 28 - - 5. ENTRANCE TO A SPANISH VILLA 49 - - 6. STATICES AND PRIDE OF TENERIFFE 64 - - 7. LA PAZ 69 - - 8. BOTANICAL GARDENS, OROTAVA 76 - - 9. EL SITIO DEL GARDO 81 - - 10. CONVENT OF SANT AUGUSTIN, ICOD DE LOS VINOS 96 - - 11. AN OLD BALCONY 113 - - 12. A BANANA CART 117 - - 13. AN OLD GATEWAY 124 - - 14. THE CANARY PINE 128 - - 15. SAN SEBASTIAN 149 - - 16. A SPANISH GARDEN 156 - - _Sketch Map at end of volume_ - - - - -CANARY ISLANDS - - -I - -TENERIFFE - - -Probably many people have shared my feeling of disappointment on -landing at Santa Cruz. I had long ago realised that few places come -up to the standard of one’s preconceived ideas, so my mental picture -was not in this case a very beautiful one; but even so, the utter -hideousness of the capital of Teneriffe was a shock to me. - -Unusually clear weather at sea had shown us our first glimpse of the -Peak, rising like a phantom mountain out of the clouds when 100 miles -distant, but as we drew nearer to land the clouds had gathered, and -the cone was wrapped in a mantle of mist. There is no disappointment -attached to one’s first impression of the Island as seen from the sea. -The jagged range of hills seemed to come sheer down to the coast, and -appeared to have been torn and rent by some extraordinary upheaval -of Nature; the deep ravines (or _barrancos_ as I afterwards learnt to -call them) were full of dark blue mysterious shadows, a deeply indented -coast-line stretched far away in the distance, and I thought the land -well deserved to be called one of the Fortunate Islands. - -Santa Cruz, or to give it its full title, Santa Cruz de Santiago, -though one of the oldest towns in the Canaries, looked, as our ship -glided into the harbour, as though it had been built yesterday, or -might even be still in course of construction. Lying low on the shore -the flat yellow-washed houses, with their red roofs, are thickly massed -together, the sheer ugliness of the town being redeemed by the spires -of a couple of old churches, which look down reprovingly on the modern -houses below. Arid slopes rise gradually behind the town, and appear to -be utterly devoid of vegetation. Perched on a steep ridge is the Hotel -Quisisana, which cannot be said to add to the beauty of the scene, and -all my sympathy went out to those who were condemned to spend a winter -in such desolate surroundings in search of health. - -Probably no foreign town is entirely devoid of interest to the -traveller. On landing, the picturesque objects which meet the eye make -one realise that once one’s foot has left the last step of the gangway -of the ship, England and everything English has been left behind. The -crowd of swarthy loafers who lounge about the quay in tight yellow or -white garments, are true sons of a southern race, and laugh and chatter -gaily with handsome black-eyed girls. Sturdy country women are settling -heavy loads on their donkeys, preparatory to taking their seat on -the top of the pack for their journey over the hills. Their peculiar -head-dress consists of a tiny straw hat, no larger than a saucer, which -acts as a pad for the loads they carry on their heads, from which hangs -a large black handkerchief either fluttering in the wind, or drawn -closely round the shoulders like a shawl. - -Here and there old houses remain, dating from the days when the wine -trade was at its zenith, and though many have now been turned into -consulates and shipping offices, they stand in reproachful contrast -to the buildings run up cheaply at a later date. Through many an open -doorway one gets a glimpse of these cool spacious old houses, whose -broad staircases and deep balconies surround a shady _patio_ or -court-yard. On the ground floor the wine was stored and the living -rooms opened into the roomy balconies on the first floor. Here and -there a small open Plaza, where drooping pepper trees shade stone -seats, affords breathing-space, but over all and everything was a thick -coating of grey dust, which gave a squalid appearance to the town. -Narrow ill-paved streets, up which struggle lean, over-worked mules, -dragging heavy rumbling carts, lead out of the town, and I was thankful -to shake the dust of Santa Cruz off my feet; not that one does, as -unless there has been very recent rain the dust follows everywhere. An -electric tramway winds its way up the slopes behind the town at a very -leisurely pace, giving one ample time to survey the scene. - -The only vegetation which looks at home in the dry dusty soil is -prickly pear, a legacy of the cochineal culture. In those halcyon -days arid spots were brought into cultivation and the cactus planted -everywhere. In the eighteenth century the islanders had merely regarded -cochineal as a loathsome form of blight, and it was forbidden to be -landed for fear it should spoil their prickly pears, but prejudice -was overcome, and when it was realised that a possible source of -wealth was to be found in the cultivation of the cactus, _Opuntia -coccinellifera_, which is the most suited to the insect, the craze -began. Land was almost unobtainable; the amount of labour was enormous -which was expended in breaking up the lava to reach the soil below, -in terracing hills wherever it was possible to terrace; property was -mortgaged to buy new fields; in fact, the islanders thought their -land was as good as a gold-mine. The following figures are given by -Mr. Samler Brown to show the extraordinary rapidity with which the -trade developed. “In 1831 the first shipment was 8 lb., the price at -first being about ten pesetas a lb.; in ten years it had increased -to 100,566 lb., and in 1869 the highest total, 6,076,869 lb., with a -value of £789,993.” The rumour of the discovery of aniline dyes alarmed -the islanders, but for a time they were not sufficiently manufactured -seriously to affect the cochineal trade, though the fall in prices -began to make merchants talk of over-production. The crisis came in -1874, when the price in London fell to 1_s._ 6_d._ or 2_s._, and the -ruin to the cochineal industry was a foregone conclusion. Aniline dyes -had taken the public taste, and though cochineal has been proved to be -the only red dye to resist rain and hard wear, the demand is now small, -and merchants who had bought up and stored the dried insect were left -with unsaleable stock on their hands. Retribution, we are told, was -swift, sudden, and universal, and the farmer who had spent so much on -bringing land into cultivation foot by foot, realised that the cactus -must be rooted up or he must face starvation. - -Possibly there are many other people as ignorant as I was myself on -my first visit to the Canaries on the subject of cochineal. Beyond -the fact that cochineal was a red dye and used occasionally as a -colouring-matter in cooking, I could not safely have answered any -question concerning it. I was much disgusted at finding that it is -really the blood of an insect which looks like a cross between a -“wood-louse” and a “mealy-bug,” with a fat body rather like a currant. -The most common method of cultivation, I believe, was to allow the -insect to attach itself to a piece of muslin in the spring, which -was then laid on to a box full of “mothers” in a room at a very high -temperature. - -The muslin was then fastened on to the leaf of the cactus by means of -the thorns of the wild prickly pear. When once attached to the leaf the -_madre_ cannot move again. There were two different methods of killing -the insect to send it to market, one by smoking it with sulphur and the -other by shaking it in sacks. A colony of the insects on a prickly pear -leaf looks like a large patch of lumpy blight, most unpleasant, and -enough to make any one say they would never again eat anything coloured -with cochineal. - -This terraced land is now cultivated with potatoes and tomatoes for the -English market, but the shower of gold in which every one shared in the -days of the cochineal boom is no more, though the banana trade in other -parts of the island seems likely to revive those good old days. - -La Laguna, about five miles above Santa Cruz, is one of the oldest -towns in Teneriffe; it was the stronghold of the Guanches and the -scene of the most desperate fighting with the Spanish invaders. To-day -it looks merely a sleepy little town, but can boast of several fine -old churches, besides the old Convente de San Augustin which has been -turned into the official seat of learning, containing a very large -public library, and the Bishop’s Palace which has a fine old stone -façade. The cathedral appears to be in a perpetual state of repairing -or rebuilding, and though begun in 1513 is not yet completed. One of -the principal sights of La Laguna is the wonderful old Dragon tree in -the garden of the Seminary attached to the Church of Santo Domingo, -of which the age is unknown. The girth of its trunk speaks for itself -of its immense age, and I was not surprised to hear that even in the -fifteenth century it was a sufficiently fine specimen to cause the land -on which it stood to be known as “the farm of the Dragon tree.” - -Foreigners regard the town chiefly as being a good centre for -expeditions, which, judging by the list in our guide-book, are almost -innumerable. One ride into the beautiful pine forest of La Mina should -certainly be undertaken, and unless the smooth clay paths are slippery -after rain the walking is easy. After a long stay in either Santa -Cruz or even Orotava, where large trees are rare, there is a great -enchantment in finding oneself once more among forest trees, and what -splendid trees are these native pines, _Pinus canariensis_, and in damp -spots one revels in the ferns and mosses, which form such a contrast -to the vegetation one has grown accustomed to. - -Alexander von Humboldt who spent a few days in Teneriffe, on his way to -South America, landing in Santa Cruz on June 19, 1799, was much struck -by the contrast of the climate of La Laguna to that of Santa Cruz. The -following is an extract from his account of the journey he made across -the island in order to ascend the Peak: “As we approached La Laguna, -we felt the temperature of the atmosphere gradually become lower. This -sensation was so much the more agreeable, as we found the air of Santa -Cruz very oppressive. As our organs are more affected by disagreeable -impressions, the change of temperature becomes still more sensible when -we return from Laguna to the port, we seem then to be drawing near the -mouth of a furnace. The same impression is felt when, on the coast -of Caracas, we descend from the mountain of Avila to the port of La -Guayra.... The perpetual coolness which prevails at La Laguna causes it -to be regarded in the Canaries as a delightful abode. - -“Situated in a small plain, surrounded by gardens, protected by a -hill which is crowned by a wood of laurels, myrtles and arbutus, the -capital of Teneriffe is very beautifully placed. We should be mistaken -if, relying on the account of some travellers, we believed it rested -on the border of a lake. The rain sometimes forms a sheet of water of -considerable extent, and the geologist, who beholds in everything the -past rather than the present state of nature, can have no doubt but -that the whole plain is a great basin dried up.” - -“Laguna has fallen from its opulence, since the lateral eruptions of -the volcano have destroyed the port of Garachico, and since Santa Cruz -has become the central point of the commerce of the island. It contains -only 9000 inhabitants, of whom nearly 400 are monks, distributed in -six convents. The town is surrounded with a great number of windmills, -which indicate the cultivation of wheat in these higher countries....” - -“A great number of chapels, which the Spaniards call _ermitas_, -encircle the town of Laguna. Shaded by trees of perpetual verdure, and -erected on small eminences, these chapels add to the picturesque effect -of the landscape. The interior of the town is not equal to the external -appearance. The houses are solidly built but very antique, and the -streets seem deserted. A botanist should not complain of the antiquity -of the edifices, as the roofs and walls are covered with Canary house -leek and those elegant _trichomanes_ mentioned by every traveller. -These plants are nourished by the abundant mists....” - -“In winter the climate of Laguna is extremely foggy, and the -inhabitants complain often of the cold. A fall of snow, however, has -never been seen, a fact which may seem to indicate that the mean -temperature of this town must be above 15° R., that is to say higher -than that of Naples....” - -“I was astonished to find that M. Broussonet had planted in the midst -of this town in the garden of the Marquis de Nava, the bread-fruit -tree (_Artocarpus incise_) and cinnamon trees (_Laurus cinnamonum_). -These valuable productions of the South Sea and the East Indies are -naturalised there as well as at Orotava.” - -The most usual route to Tacoronte _en route_ to Orotava, the ultimate -destination of most travellers, is by the main road or _carretera_, -which reaches the summit of the pass shortly after leaving La Laguna, -at a height of 2066 feet. The redeeming feature of the otherwise -uninteresting road is the long avenue of eucalyptus trees, which gives -welcome shade in summer. If time and distance are of no account, and -the journey is being made by motor, the lower road by Tejina is far -preferable. The high banks of the lanes are crowned with feathery old -junipers, in spring the grassy slopes are gay with wild flowers, and -here and there stretches of yellow broom (_spartium junceum_) fill -the air with its delicious scent. Turns in the road reveal unexpected -glimpses of the Peak on the long descent to the little village of -Tegueste, and below lies the church of Tejina, only a few hundred feet -above the sea. Here the road turns and ascends again to Tacoronte, and -the Peak now faces one, the cone often rising clear above a bank of -clouds which covers the base. - -At Tacoronte the tram-line ends and either a carriage or motor takes -the traveller over the remaining fifteen miles down through the fertile -valley to Puerto Orotava. The valley is justly famous for its beauty, -and in clear winter weather, when the Peak has a complete mantle of -snow, no one can refrain from exclaiming at the beauty of the scene, -when at one bend of the road the whole valley lies stretched at one’s -feet, bathed in sunshine and enclosed in a semi-circle of snow-capped -mountains. The clouds cast blue shadows on the mountain sides, and here -and there patches of white mist sweep across the valley; the dark pine -woods lie in sharp contrast to the brilliant colouring of the chestnut -woods whose leaves have been suddenly turned to red gold by frost in -the higher land. In the lower land broad stretches of banana fields -are interspersed with ridges of uncultivated ground, where almond, fig -trees and prickly pears still find a home, and clumps of the native -Canary palm trees wave their feathery heads in the wind. Small wonder -that even as great a traveller as Humboldt was so struck with the -beauty of the scene that he is said to have thrown himself on his knees -in order to salute the sight as the finest in the world. Without any -such extravagant demonstration as that of the great traveller, it is -worth while to stop and enjoy the view; though, to be sure, carriages -travel at such a leisurely rate in Teneriffe, one has ample time to -survey the scene. The guardian-angel of the valley--the Peak--dominates -the broad expanse of land and sea, in times of peace, a placid broad -white pyramid. But at times the mountain has become angry and waved -a flaming sword over the land, and for this reason the Guanches -christened it the Pico de Teide or Hell, though they appear to have -also regarded it as the Seat of the Deity. - -Humboldt himself describes the scene in the following words: “The -valley of Tacoronte is the entrance into that charming country, of -which travellers of every nation have spoken with rapturous enthusiasm. -Under the torrid zone I found sites where Nature is more majestic and -richer in the display of organic forms; but after having traversed the -banks of the Orinoco, the Cordilleras of Peru, and the most beautiful -valleys of Mexico, I own that I have never beheld a prospect more -varied, more attractive, more harmonious in the distribution of the -masses of verdure and rocks, than the western coast of Teneriffe. - -“The sea-coast is lined with date and cocoa trees; groups of the -_musa_, as the country rises, form a pleasing contrast with the dragon -tree, the trunks of which have been justly compared to the tortuous -form of the serpent. The declivities are covered with vines, which -throw their branches over towering poles. Orange trees loaded with -flowers, myrtles and cypress trees encircle the chapels reared to -devotion on the isolated hills. The divisions of landed property are -marked by hedges formed of the agave and the cactus. An innumerable -number of cryptogamous plants, among which ferns most predominate, -cover the walls, and are moistened by small springs of limpid water. - -“In winter, when the volcano is buried under ice and snow, this -district enjoys perpetual spring. In summer as the day declines, the -breezes from the sea diffuse a delicious freshness.... - -“From Tegueste and Tacoronte to the village of San Juan de la Rambla -(which is celebrated for its excellent Malmsey wine) the rising hills -are cultivated like a garden. I might compare them to the environs -of Capua and Valentia, if the western part of Teneriffe were not -infinitely more beautiful on account of the proximity of the Peak, -which presents on every side a new point of view. - -“The aspect of this mountain is interesting, not merely from its -gigantic mass; it excites the mind, by carrying it back to the -mysterious source of its volcanic agency. For thousands of years -no flames or light have been perceived on the summit of the Piton, -nevertheless enormous lateral eruptions, the last of which took -place in 1798, are proofs of the activity of a fire still far from -being extinguished. There is also something that leaves a melancholy -impression on beholding a crater in the centre of a fertile and -well-cultivated country. The history of the globe tells us that -volcanoes destroy what they have been a long series of ages in -creating. Islands which the action of submarine fires has raised above -the water, are by degrees clothed in rich and smiling verdure; but -these new lands are often laid waste by the renewed action of the same -power which caused them to emerge from the bottom of the ocean. Islets, -which are now but heaps of scoriæ and volcanic ashes, were once perhaps -as fertile as the hills of Tacoronte and Sauzal. Happy the country -where man has no distrust of the soil on which he lives.” - -[Illustration: A STREET IN PUERTO OROTAVA] - -Low on the shore lies the little sea-port town of Orotava, known as -the Puerto to distinguish it from the older and more important Villa -Orotava lying some three miles away inland, at a higher altitude. -Further along the coast is San Juan de la Rambla, and on the lower -slopes of the opposite wall of the valley are the picturesque villages -of Realejo Alto and Bajo, while Icod el Alto is perched at the very -edge of the dark cliffs of the Tigaia at a height of about 1700 ft. -A gap in the further mountain range is known as the Portillo, the -Fortaleza rises above this “gateway,” and from this point begins the -long gradual sweep of the Tigaia, which, from the valley, hides all but -the very cone of the Peak. Above Villa Orotava towers Pedro Gil and the -Montaña Blanca, with the sun glittering on its freshly fallen snow, and -near at hand are the villages of Sauzal, Santa Ursula, Matanza and La -Victoria. - -Though Humboldt describes them as “smiling hamlets,” he comments on -their names which he says are “mingled together in all the Spanish -colonies, and they form an unpleasing contract with the peaceful and -tranquil feelings which these countries inspire. - -“Matanza signifies slaughter, or carnage, and the word alone recalls -the price at which victory has been purchased. In the New World it -generally indicates the defeat of the natives; at Teneriffe the village -Matanza was built in a place where the Spaniards were conquered by -those same Guanches who soon after were sold as slaves in the markets -of Europe.” - -In early winter the terraced ridges, which are cultivated with wheat -and potatoes, are a blot in the landscape, brown and bare, but in -spring, after the winter rains, these slopes will be transformed into -sheets of emerald green, and it is then that the valley looks its best. -For a few days, all too few, the almond trees are smothered with their -delicate pale pink blooms, but one night’s rain or a few hours’ rough -wind will scatter all their blossoms, and nothing will remain of their -rosy loveliness but a carpet of bruised and fallen petals. - -The valley soon reveals traces of the upheavals of Nature in a bygone -age; broad streams of lava, which at some time poured down the valley, -remain grey and desolate-looking, almost devoid of vegetation, and the -two cinder heaps or _fumaroles_ resembling huge blackened mole-hills, -though not entirely bare, cannot be admired. No one seems to know -their exact history or age, but it appears pretty certain that they -developed perfectly independently of any eruption of the Peak itself, -though perhaps not “growing in a single night,” as I was once solemnly -assured they had done. One theory, which sounded not improbable, was -that the bed of lava on which several English villas, the church and -the Grand Hotel have been built, was originally spouted out of one -of these cinder heaps, and the hill on which the hotel stands was in -former days the edge of the cliff. The lava is supposed to have flowed -over the edge and accumulated to such a depth in the sea below that it -formed the plateau of low-lying ground on which the Puerto now stands. - -The little town is not without attraction, though its streets are dusty -and unswept, being only cleaned once a year, in honour of the Feast -of Corpus Christi, on which day at the Villa carpets of elaborate -design, arranged out of the petals of flowers, run down the centre of -the streets where the processions are to pass. My first impression of -the town was that it appeared to be a deserted city, hardly a foot -passenger was to be seen, and my own donkey was the only beast of -burden in the main street of the town. Gorgeous masses of bougainvillea -tumbled over garden walls, and glimpses were to be seen through open -doorways of creeper-clad _patios_. The carved balconies with their -little tiled roofs are inseparable from all the old houses, more or -less decorated according to the importance of the house. The soft green -of the woodwork of the houses, and more especially of the solid green -shutters or _postijos_, behind which the inhabitants seem to spend many -hours gazing into the streets, was always a source of admiration to -me. The main street ends with the mole, and looking seawards the surf -appears to dash up into the street itself. The town wakes to life when -a cargo steamer comes into the port, and then one long stream of carts, -drawn by the finest oxen I have ever seen, finds its way to the mole, -to unload the crates of bananas which are frequently sold on the quay -itself to the contractors. - -[Illustration: THE PEAK, FROM VILLA OROTAVA] - - - - -II - -TENERIFFE (_continued_) - - -About a thousand feet above the Puerto de Orotava, on the long gradual -slope which sweeps down from Pedro Gil forming the valley of Orotava, -lies the _villa_ or town of Orotava. This most picturesque old town is -of far more interest than the somewhat squalid port, being the home of -many old Spanish families, whose beautiful houses are the best examples -of Spanish architecture in the Canaries. Besides their quiet _patios_, -which are shady and cool even on the hottest summer days, the exterior -of many of the houses is most beautiful. The admirable work of the -carved balconies and shutters, the iron-work and carved stone-work -cannot fail to make every one admire houses which are rapidly becoming -unique. The Spaniards have, alas! like many other nations, lost their -taste in architecture, and the modern houses which are springing up -all too quickly make one shudder to contemplate. Some had been built -to replace those which had been burnt, others were merely being built -by men who had made a fortune in the banana trade. Not satisfied -with their old solid houses, with their fine old stone doorways and -overhanging wooden balconies, they are ruthlessly destroying them to -build a fearsome modern monstrosity, possibly more comfortable to live -in, but most offending to the eye. The love of their gardens seems also -to be dying out, and as I once heard some one impatiently exclaim, -“They have no soul above bananas,” and it is true that the culture of -bananas is at the moment of all-absorbing interest. - -Though the _patios_ of the houses may be decked with plants, the air -being kept cool and moist by the spray of a tinkling fountain, many of -the little gardens at the back of these old family mansions have fallen -into a sad state of disorder and decay. The myrtle and box hedges, -formerly the pride of their owners, are no longer kept trim and shorn, -and the little beds are no longer full of flowers. One garden remains -to show how, when even slightly tended, flowers grow and flourish in -the cooler air of the Villa. In former days a giant chestnut tree -was the pride of this garden, only its venerable trunk now remains -to tell of its departed glories; but the _poyos_ (double walls) are -full of flowers all the year, and the native _Pico de paloma_ (_Lotus -Berthelotii_) flourishes better here than in any other garden; it -drapes the walls and half smothers the steps and stone seats with -its garlands of soft grey-green, and in spring is covered with its -deep red “pigeons’ beaks.” The walls are gay with stocks, carnations, -verbenas, lilies, geraniums, and hosts of plants. Long hedges of -_Libonia floribunda_, the _bandera d’España_ of the natives, as its red -and yellow blossoms represent the national colours of Spain, line the -entrance, and in unconsidered damp corners white arum lilies grow, the -rather despised _orejas de burros_, or donkeys’ ears, of the country -people, who give rather apt nick-names to not only flowers, but people. - -Though the higher-class Spaniards are a most exclusive race, I met -with nothing but civility from their hands when asking permission -to see their _patio_ or gardens; as much cannot be said for the -middle and lower classes of to-day, who are distinctly anti-foreign. -The lower classes appear to regard an incessant stream of pennies -as their right, and hurl abuse or stones at your head when their -persistent begging is ignored, and even tradesmen are often insolent -to foreigners. A spirit of independence and republicanism is very -apparent. An employer of labour can obviously keep no control over his -men, who work when they choose, or more often don’t work when they -don’t choose, and the mother or father of a family keeps no control -over the children. One day I asked our gardener why he did not send his -children to school to learn to read and write, as he was deploring that -he could not read the names of the seeds he was sowing. I thought it -was a good moment to point a moral, but he shrugged his shoulders, and -said they did not care to go, and also they had no shoes and could not -go to school barefoot. The man was living rent free, earning the same -wages as an average English labourer, and two sons in work contributed -to the expenses of the house, besides the money he got for the crop on -a small piece of land which the whole family cultivated on Sundays, and -still he could not afford to provide shoes in order that his children -should learn to read and write. Another man announced with pride that -one of his children attended school. Knowing he had two, I inquired, -“Why only one?” On which he owned that the other one used to go, but -now she refused to do so, and neither he nor his wife could make her -go. This independent person was aged nine! - -One of the great curiosities of the Villa was the great Dragon Tree, -and though it stands no more, visitors are still shown the site where -it once stood and are told of its immense age. Humboldt gave the age -of the tree at the time of his visit as being at least 6000 years, and -though this may have been excessive, there is no doubt that it was of -extreme age. It was blown down and the remains accidentally destroyed -by fire in 1867, and only old engravings remain to tell of its wondrous -size. The hollow trunk was large enough for a good-sized room or cave, -and in the days of the Guanches, when a national assembly was summoned -to create a new chief or lord, the meeting place was at the great -Dragon Tree. The land on which it stood was afterwards enclosed and -became the garden of the Marques de Sauzal. - -The ceremony of initiating a lord was a curious one, and the Overlord -of Taoro (the old name of Orotava), was the greatest of these lords, -having 6000 warriors at his command. Though the dignity was inherited, -it was not necessary that it should pass from father to son, and more -frequently passed from brother to brother. “When they raised one to be -lord they had this custom. Each lordship had a bone of the most ancient -lord in their lineage wrapped in skins and guarded. The most ancient -councillors were convoked to the ‘Tagoror,’ or place of assembly. After -his election the king was given this bone to kiss. After having kissed -it he put it over his head. Then the rest of the principal people -put it over his shoulder, and he said, ‘_Agoñe yacoron yñatzahaña -Chacoñamet_’ (I swear by the bone on this day on which you have made me -great). This was the ceremony of the coronation, and on the same day -the people were called that they might know whom they had for their -lord. He feasted them, and there were general banquets at the cost of -the new lord and his relations. Great pomp appears to have surrounded -these lords, and any one meeting them in the road when they progressed -to change their summer residence in the mountains to one by the sea -in winter, was expected to prostrate himself on the ground, and on -rising to cleanse the king’s feet with the edge of his coat of skins.” -(See “The Guanches of Teneriffe,” by Sir Clement Markham.) After the -conquest the Spaniards turned the temple of the Guanches into a chapel, -and Mass was said within the tree. - -In the Villa are several fine old churches, whose spires and domes -are her fairest adornment. The principal church is the Iglesia de la -Concepcion, whose domes dominate the whole town. The exterior of the -church is very fine, though the interior is not so interesting. It is -curious to think how the silver communion plate, said to have belonged -to St. Paul’s Cathedral in London, can have come into the possession of -this church. The theory that this and similar plate in the Cathedral -at Las Palmas are the scattered remains of the magnificent church -plate which was sold and dispersed by the order of Oliver Cromwell is -generally accepted. - -The fine old doorway and tower of the Convent and Church of Santo -Domingo date from a time when the Spaniards had more soul for the -beautiful than they have at the present time. - -The narrow steep cobbled streets are hardly any of them without -interest, and the old balconies, the carved shutters and glimpses of -flowery _patios_, with a gorgeous mass of creeper tumbling over a -garden wall or wreathing an old doorway, combine to make it a most -picturesque town. A feature of almost every Spanish house is the little -latticed hutch which covers the drip stone filter. In many an old -house creepers and ferns, revelling in the dampness which exudes from -the constantly wet stone, almost cover the little house, and even the -stone itself grows maiden-hair or other ferns, and their presence is -not regarded as interfering with the purifying properties of the stone, -in which the natives place great faith. I never could believe that -clean water could in any way benefit by being passed through the dirt -of ages which must accumulate in these stones, there being no means of -cleaning them except on the surface. The red earthenware water-pots of -decidedly classical shape are made in every size, and a tiny child may -be seen learning to carry a diminutive one on her head with a somewhat -uncertain gait which she will soon outgrow, and in a year or two will -stride along carrying a large water-pot all unconscious of her load, -leaving her two hands free to carry another burden. - -[Illustration: REALEJO ALTO] - -A charming walk or donkey-ride leads from the Villa along fairly level -country to Realejo Alto, passing through the two little villages of La -Perdoma and La Cruz Santa. In early spring the almond blossom gives a -rosy tinge to many a stretch of rough uncultivated ground, and in the -villages over the garden walls was wafted the heavy scent of orange -blossoms. The trees at this altitude seemed freer of the deadly black -blight which has ravaged all the orange groves on the lower land, -and altogether the vegetation struck one as being more luxuriant and -more forward. The cottage-garden walls were gay with flowers: stocks, -mauve and white, the favourite _alelis_ of the natives, long trails of -geraniums and wreaths of _Pico de paloma_, pinks and carnations and -hosts of other flowers I noticed as we rode past. - -The village of Realejo Alto is, without doubt, the most picturesque -village I ever saw in the Canaries. Its situation on a very steep slope -with the houses seemingly piled one above the other is very suggestive -of an Italian mountain village. Part of the Church of San Santiago, -the portion next the tower, is supposed to be the oldest church in the -island, and the spire, the most prominent feature of the village and -neighbourhood, is worthy of the rest of the old church. The interior -of the church is not without interest when seen in a good light, and -a fine old doorway is said to be the work of Spanish workmen shortly -after the conquest. The carved stone-work round this doorway and a very -similar one in the lower village are unique specimens of this style of -work in the islands. - -The _barranco_ which separates the upper and lower villages of Realejo -was the scene of a great flood in 1820 which severely damaged both -villages. Realejo Bajo, though not quite as picturesque as the upper -village, is well worth a visit, and its inhabitants are justly proud of -their Dragon Tree, a rival to the one at Icod which may possibly some -day become as celebrated as the great tree at Orotava. - -These two villages are great centres of the _calado_ or -drawn-thread-work industry. Through every open doorway may be seen -women and girls bending over the frames on which the work is stretched. -It is mostly of very inferior quality, very coarsely worked and on poor -material, and it seems a pity that there is no supply of better and -finer work. Visitors get tired of the sight of the endless stacks of -bed-covers and tea-cloths which are offered to them, and certainly the -work compares badly both in price and quality with that done in the -East. - - - - -III - -TENERIFFE (_continued_) - - -A spell of clear weather, late in February, made us decide to make -an expedition to the Cañadas, which, except to those who are bent on -mountain climbing and always wish to get to the very top of every -height they see, appeals to the ordinary traveller more than ascending -the Peak itself. In spite of the promise of fine weather the day -before, the morning broke cloudy and at dawn, 6 A.M., we started full -of doubts and misgivings as to what the sunrise would bring. We had -decided to drive as far as the road would allow, as we had been warned -that we should find nine or ten hours’ mule riding would be more than -enough, in fact, our friends were rather Job’s comforters. Some said -the expedition was so tiring that they had known people to be ill for -a week after undertaking it. Others said it was never clear at the -top, we must be prepared to be soaked to the skin in the mist, for -the mules to stumble and probably roll head over heels, in fact that -strings of disasters were certain to overtake us. Our mules were to -join us at Realejo Alto, about an hour’s drive from the port, and there -we determined we would decide whether we would continue, or content -ourselves with a shorter expedition on a lower level. - -Sunrise did not improve the prospect, a heavy bank of clouds lay over -Pedro Gil, while ominous drifts of light white clouds were gathering -below the Tigaia, and the prospect out to sea was not more encouraging. -The mules were late, in true Spanish fashion, and we consulted a few -weather-wise looking inhabitants who gathered round our carriage in the -Plaza, shivering in the morning air, with their _mantas_ or blanket -cloaks wrapped closely round them. They looked pityingly at these mad -foreigners who had left their beds at such an hour when they were not -forced to--for the Spaniard is no early riser--and were proposing to -ride up into the clouds. The optimistic members of the party said: “It -is nothing but a little morning mist,” while the pessimist remarked, -“Morning mists make mid-day clouds in my experience.” - -The arrival of the mules put an end to further discussion. The -muleteers were full of hope and confident that the clouds would -disperse, or anyway that we should get above the region of cloud and -find clear weather at the top, so though our old blanket-coated friend -murmured “_Pobrecitas_” (poor things) below his breath, we made a -start armed with wraps for the wet and cold we were to encounter. The -clattering of the mules as we rode up the steep village street brought -many heads to the windows; the little green shutters, or _postijos_, -were hastily pushed open to enable the crowd, which appeared to inhabit -every house, to catch a sight of the “_Inglezes_.” Inquiry as to where -we were bound for, I noticed, generally brought an exclamation of “Very -bad weather” (“_Tiempo muy malo_”), to the great indignation of our -men, who muttered, “Don’t say so!” - -The stony path from Realejo leads in a fairly steep ascent to Palo -Blanco, a little scattered village of charcoal-burners’ huts at a -height of 2200 feet. The wreaths of blue smoke from their fires mingled -with the mist, but already there was a promise of better things to -come, as the sun was breaking through and the clouds were thinner. -The chant of the charcoal-burners is a sound one gets accustomed -to in these regions, and I never quite knew whether it was merely a -song which cheered them on their downward path, or whether it was to -announce their approach and ask ascending travellers to move out of -their way, as the size of the loads they carry on their heads makes -them often very difficult to pass. Presently two stalwart girls came -into sight, swinging along at a steady trot; their bare feet apparently -even more at home along the stony track than the unshod feet of the -mules, as there is no stopping to pick their way, on they go, only -too anxious to reach their journey’s end, and drop the crushing load -off their heads. We anxiously inquired as to the state of the weather -higher up, and to our great relief, with no hesitation, came the -answer: “_Muy claro_” (very clear), and in a few minutes a puff of wind -blew all the mist away as if by magic, and there was a shout of triumph -from the men. - -Below lay the whole valley of Orotava, and we were leaving the -picturesque town of the Villa Orotava far away below us on the left. -The little villages of La Perdoma, La Cruz Santa, and the two Realejos, -Alto and Bajo, were more immediately below us, and far away in the -distance beyond the Puerto were to be seen Santa Ursula, Sauzal and -the little scattered town of Tacoronte. Pedro Gil and all the range -of mountains on the left had large stretches of melting snow, shining -with a dazzling whiteness in the sun. It had been an unusual winter -for snow, so we were assured, and it was rare to find it still lying -at the end of February, but we were glad it was so, for it certainly -added greatly to the beauty of the scene. At the Monte Verde, the -region of green things, we called a halt, for the sake of man and -beast, and while our men refreshed themselves with substantial slices -of sour bread and the snow white local cheese, made from goats’ milk, -and our mules enjoyed a few minutes’ breathing-space with loosened -girths, we took a short walk to look down into the beautiful Barranco -de la Laura. Here the trees have as yet escaped destruction at the -hands of the charcoal-burners and the steep banks are still clad with -various kinds of native laurel mixed with large bushes of the _Erica -arborea_, the heath which covers all the region of the Monte Verde. The -almost complete deforestation by the charcoal-burners is most deeply -to be deplored, and it is sad to think how far more beautiful all this -region must have been before it was stripped of its grand pine and -laurel trees. The authorities took no steps to stop this wholesale -destruction of the forests until it was too late, and even now, though -futile regulations exist, no one takes the trouble to see that they are -enforced. The law now only allows dead wood to be collected, but it is -easy enough to _make_ dead wood--a man goes up and breaks down branches -of trees or _retama_, and a few weeks later goes round and collects -them as dead wood, and so the law is evaded. As there is a never-ending -demand for charcoal, it being the only fuel the Spaniard uses, so -matters will continue until there is nothing left to cut. - -No doubt we were on the same path as that by which Humboldt had -travelled when he visited Teneriffe in 1799 and ascended the Peak. -His description of the vegetation shows how the ruthless axe of the -charcoal-burners has destroyed some of the most beautiful forests in -the world. Humboldt had been obliged to abandon his travels in Italy -in 1795 without visiting the volcanic districts of Naples and Sicily, -a knowledge of which was indispensable for his geological studies. -Four years later the Spanish Court had given him a splendid welcome -and placed at his disposal the frigate _Pizarro_ for his voyage to the -equinoctial regions of New Spain. After a narrow escape of falling -into the hands of English privateers the Trade winds blew him to the -Canaries. The 21st day of June, 1799, finds him on his way to the -summit of the Peak accompanied by his friend Bonpland, M. le Gros, -the secretary of the French Consulate in Santa Cruz, and the English -gardener of Durasno (the botanical gardens of Orotava). The day appears -not to have been happily chosen. The top of the Peak was covered in -thick clouds from sunrise up to ten o’clock. Only one path leads from -Villa Orotava through the _retama_ plains and the _mal pays_. “This -is the way that all visitors must follow who are only a short time in -Teneriffe. When people go up the Peak” (these are Humboldt’s words) -“it is the same as when the Chamounix or Etna are visited, people -must follow the guides and one only succeeds in seeing what other -travellers have seen and described.” Like others he was much struck -by the contrast of the vegetation in these parts of Teneriffe and in -that surrounding Santa Cruz, where he had landed. “A narrow stony path -leads through Chestnut woods to regions full of Laurel and Heath, and -then further to the Dornajito springs; this being the only fountain -that is met with all the way to the Peak. We stopped to take our -provision of water under a solitary fir tree. This station is known -in the country by the name of Pino del Dornajito. Above this region -of arborescent heaths called Monte Verde, is the region of ferns. -Nowhere in the temperate zones have I seen such an abundance of the -_Pteris_, _Blechium_ and _Asplenium_; yet none of these plants have -the stateliness of the arborescent ferns which, at the height of 500 -and 600 _toises_, form the principal ornaments of equinoctial America. -The root of the _Pteris aquilina_ serves the inhabitants of Palma and -Gomera for food. They grind it to powder, and mix it with a quantity -of barley meal. This composition when boiled is called _gofio_; the -use of so homely an aliment is proof of the extreme poverty of the -lower classes of people in the Canary Islands. (Gofio is still largely -consumed). - -“The region of ferns is succeeded by a wood of juniper trees and firs, -which has suffered greatly from the violence of hurricanes (not one is -now left). In this place, mentioned by some travellers under the name -of Caraveles, Mr. Eden states that in the year 1705, he saw little -flames, which according to the doctrines of the naturalists of his -time, he attributes to sulphurous exhalations igniting spontaneously. -We continued to ascend, till we came to the rock of La Gayta and to -the Portillo: traversing this narrow pass between two basaltic hills, -we entered the great plain of _Spartium_.... We spent two hours in -crossing the Llano del Retama, which appears like an immense sea of -white sand. In the midst of the plain are tufts of the _retama_, which -is the _Spartium nubigenum_ of Aiton. M. de Martinière wished to -introduce this beautiful shrub into Languedoc, where firewood is very -scarce. It grows to a height of 9 ft. and is loaded with odoriferous -flowers, with which the goat-hunters who met in our road had decorated -their hats. The goats of the Peak, which are of a dark brown colour, -are reckoned delicious food; they browse on the _spartium_ and have -run wild in the deserts from time immemorial.” Spending the night on -the mountain, though in mid summer, the travellers complained bitterly -of the cold, having neither tents nor rugs. At 3 A.M. they started by -torch-light to make the final ascent to the summit of the Piton. “A -strong northerly wind chased the clouds, the moon at intervals shooting -through the vapours exposed its disk on a firmament of the darkest -blues, and the view of the volcano threw a majestic character over the -nocturnal scenery. - -“Sometimes the peak was entirely hidden from our eyes by the fog, -at other times it broke upon us in terrific proximity: and like an -enormous pyramid, threw its shadow over the clouds rolling at our feet.” - -Scaling the mountain on the north-eastern side, in two hours the party -reached Alta Vista, following the same course as travellers of to-day, -passing over the _mal pays_ (a region devoid of vegetable mould and -covered with fragments of lava) and visiting the ice caves. After the -Laurels follow ferns of great size, Junipers and Pines (not one is now -left of either) all the way up to the Portillo. - -The Portillo was still towering far above us, the gateway of the -range, as its name implies, through which we had to pass to get to the -Cañadas, and the stony path, though a well defined one, meanders on, -not at a very steep incline, past rough hillocks where here and there -pumice stone appears. Gradually the heath, which was just coming -into flower, and in a few weeks would be covered with its rather -insignificant little white or pinkish blossoms, becomes interspersed -with _codeso_, _Adenocarpus viscosus_, with its peculiar flat spreading -growth and tiny leaves of a soft bluish-green. During all the long -ascent there is no sign of the Peak; the path lies so immediately -beneath the dividing range that it is not until the Portillo itself -is reached, that it suddenly bursts into view. It is a grand scene -which lies before one. The foreground of rocky ground is interspersed -with great bushes of _retama_ (_Sparto-cytisus nubigens_), a species -of broom said to be peculiar to this district. In growth it somewhat -resembles _Spartium junceum_, commonly known in England as Spanish -broom, but is more stubby and perhaps not so graceful. When in flower -in May its sweet scent is so powerful that not only does it fill the -whole air in this mountain district, but sailors are said to smell it -miles out at sea. Our guides told us some bushes had white flowers and -others white tinged with rose colour. At this season large patches of -thawing snow take the place of flowers, but the bushes of _retama_ can -be seen piercing the Peak’s dense mantle of snow up to a height of -quite 10,000 feet. - -I had been told that all the beauty of the Peak was lost when seen from -so near, that the beautiful pyramid of rock and snow which rises some -12,000 feet and stands towering above the valley of Orotava would look -like a mere hill when seen rising from the moat of fine sand, which is -what the Cañadas most resemble, that in fact, all enchantment would -be gone. One writer even has gone so far as to call the Peak an ugly -cinder-heap when seen from the Cañadas on the other side, and to say -they found themselves “in a lifeless, soundless world, burnt out, dead, -the very abomination of desolation, where once raged a fiery inferno -over a lake of boiling lava.” I cannot help thinking that the writer of -the above must have been travelling under adverse circumstances; it is -curious how being overtired, wet and cold will make one find no beauty -in a scene, which others, who like ourselves have seen it in glorious -sunshine, will describe as one of the most beautiful sights in the -world. - -The path just beyond the Portillo (7150 ft.) divides, and those who -propose to ascend the Peak follow the track up the side of the Montaña -Blanca, a snow-clad hump at the east base of the Peak. The cone itself -is locally called Lomo Tiezo, and rises at an angle of 28°. The stone -hut at the Alta Vista (10,702 ft.) is where many a weary traveller -spends the night, before ascending the final 1400 ft. on foot, as the -mules are left at the hut. No doubt in clear weather the traveller -is well repaid, and the scene is well described as follows by Mr. -Samler Brown: “Those who cannot ascend the mountain would probably -greatly help their imagination by looking at a lunar crater through a -telescope. The surroundings are the essence of desolation and ruin. -On one side the rounded summit of the Montaña Blanca, on the other -the threatening craters of the Pico Viejo and of Chahorra, the latter -three-quarters of a mile in diameter, 10,500 ft. high, once a boiling -cauldron and even now ready to burst into furious life at any moment. -Below, the once circular basin of the Cañadas, seamed with streams of -lava and surrounded by its jagged and many-coloured walls. Around, a -number of volcanoes, standing, as Piazzi Smyth says, like fish on their -tails with widely gaping mouths. On the upper slopes the pine forests -and far beneath the sea, with the Six Satellites (the islands of La -Palma, Gomera, Hierro, Grand Canary, Fuerteventura and Lanzarote) -floating in the distance, the enormous horizon giving the impression -that the looker-on is in a sort of well rather than on a height which, -taken in relation to its surroundings is second to none in the world.” - -To attain the rude little shrine at the Fortaleza where a rest was to -be taken, the path leads down into the Cañadas itself. A stretch of -fine yellow sand, like the sand of the Sahara, thoroughly sun-baked, -proved too great a temptation to one of the mules, and regardless of -its rider and luncheon-basket, it enjoyed a good roll in the soft warm -bed--luckily with no untoward results. After a welcome rest in the -grateful shade of a _retama_ bush, we turned our backs to the Peak and -left this beautiful solitary scene. The island of La Palma seemed to -be floating in the sky; the line of the horizon dividing sea and sky -appeared to be all out of place, in fact it seems to be a weird uncanny -world in these parts, and though to-day the Peak may be standing calm -and serene, bathed in sunshine and clad in snow, still it reminds one -of the death and destruction it has caused by fire and flood, and who -knows when it may some day awake from its long sleep and shake the -whole island to its foundations. - -It is an accepted theory that the Cañadas themselves were originally an -immense crater, the second largest in the world, and during a period of -activity they threw up the Peak which became the new crater. Probably -during this process the Cañadas themselves subsided, and left the wall -of rock which appears to form a perfect protection to the Valley of -Orotava in case the Peak should some day again spout forth burning lava. - -It was in the early winter of 1909 that the inhabitants of Teneriffe -were reminded that their volcano was not dead. For nearly a year -previously frequent slight shocks of earthquake had warned geological -experts that some upheaval was to be expected, which in November were -followed by loud detonations, each one shaking the houses in Orotava. -One of the inhabitants has described the sensation as one of curious -instability, that the houses felt as though they were built on a -foundation of jelly. An entirely new crater opened twenty miles from -the Peak, and though so far distant from Orotava, the flashes of light -were distinctly visible above the lower mountains on the south side -of the Peak. Very little damage seems to have been done, as luckily -there were no villages near enough to be annihilated by the streams of -lava, but most exaggerated reports of the eruptions were circulated -in Europe, and it is even said that a message was sent to the Spanish -Government asking for men-of-war to be sent at once to take away the -inhabitants as the island was sinking into the sea! Many geological -authorities have given it as their opinion that it is most unlikely -that there will be another eruption in less than another hundred years, -which is consoling and reassuring. - -As the paths were dry we were able to return by a different route, -which though rather longer is far more beautiful, and to those who -prefer walking to riding downhill is highly to be recommended. The -mules appear to be more sure-footed in the stony paths and once the -region of the Monte Verde begins again and the path is smooth their -unshod feet get no hold, and in wet weather the path is a mere “mud -slide” and should not be attempted. It was a beautiful walk along the -crest of the range; the Peak was lost to sight but the valley below lay -filled with drifting patches of light mist, through which could just -be seen the Villa bathed in the afternoon light, and above, all was -clear. Pedro Gil, and the Montaña Blanca beyond, glowed in a red light, -and right away in the distance the mountains round La Laguna were just -visible. - -[Illustration: ENTRANCE TO A SPANISH VILLA] - -From La Corona the view is perhaps at its best. On the left the -pine woods above Icod de los Vinos stretch away into the distance -to the extreme west of the island, and on the right the valley of -Orotava lies spread out like a map. Just below La Corona one gets -back into cultivated regions and the sight of a country-woman with -the usual burden on her head reminded us how many hours it was since -we had seen a sign of life--not, indeed, since we had passed the two -charcoal-burners in the early morning who had given such welcome news -of clear weather ahead. Icod el Alto, with the roughest village street -it has ever been my fate to encounter, was soon left behind, and the -mules trudged wearily down as steep a path as we had met with anywhere, -to Realejo Bajo and back to civilisation and the prosaic. A rickety -little victoria with three lean but gallant little horses took us home -exactly twelve hours from the time we started. We had not meant to -break records, and on the homeward path had certainly taken things -easily--the ride from Realejo Alto to the Cañadas was exactly four -hours, one hour’s rest, five hours’ ride down, partly walking, and two -hours’ driving--and we were neither wet through nor so tired that we -were ill for a week. I had heard a good description of mule riding by -some one who was consulted as to whether it was very tiring, and his -answer was, “It is not _riding_, you just sit, and leave the rest to -the mule and Providence!” - - - - -IV - -TENERIFFE (_continued_) - - -I know nothing more enjoyable than a ramble along the coast or up one -of the many _barrancos_ in the neighbourhood of Orotava. I had always -heard that the Canary Islands were rich in native plants, but I hardly -realised that almost each separate _barranco_ (literally meaning a -mountain torrent, but now applied to any ravine or deep gully) would -have its own special treasures, and that the cliffs by the sea are so -rich in vegetation that in many places they look like the most perfect -examples of rock gardens. - -One of the best walks is up the steep little path, hardly more than -a goats’ track, which leads from the Barranco Martinez to the cliffs -below the terrace of La Paz. It is possible to wander for miles in this -direction; occasionally, it is true, the spell of enchantment in the -way of plant collecting will be broken by the path suddenly coming to -vast stretches of banana cultivation, but luckily there is still a good -deal of unbroken ground, and the path leads back again to the verge of -the cliffs and inaccessible places. There are so many plants that will -be strangers to the newcomer that it is hard to know which to mention -and which to leave out, as far be it from me to pretend to give a full -list of Canary plants, and the longer I stayed in the islands the less -surprised I was to hear that a learned botanist had been four years -collecting material for a full and complete account of the flora of -the Canaries, and that still his work was not completed. I think the -first place must be given to _Euphorbia canariensis_ as one of the most -conspicuous and ornamental of the cliff plants. Great clumps of this -“candelabra plant,” as the English have christened it (or _cardon_ in -Spanish), are so characteristic that it will always be associated in -my mind with the cliffs of Teneriffe. Its great square fluted columns -may rise to 10 or 12 ft. leafless, but bearing near the top a reddish -fruit or flower, and having vicious-looking hooks down the edges of its -stout branches. If you gash one of the columns with a knife out spurts -its sticky, milky juice, which if not really poisonous is a strong -irritant, and there is a legend that the Guanches used it to stupefy -fish, but precisely in what manner I never ascertained. One feature -of the cliff vegetation cannot fail to strike every one, and that is -the soft bluish-green of nearly all the plants. The prickly pears, as -both the Cactuses are commonly called, _Opuntia Dillenii_ and _Opuntia -coccinellifera_--the latter especially appears to have been introduced -for the cultivation of cochineal, and has remained as a weed--the sow -thistles (_Sonchus_), _Kleinias_, _Artemerias_, and nearly all the -succulent plants have grey-green colouring, which is in such beautiful -contrast to the dark cliffs. The overhanging cliffs just below La Paz -are of most beautiful formation and colouring, in places a deep brick -red colour, owing to a deposit of yellow ochre, and in others a tawny -yellow, and so deep are the hollows in the volcanic rocks and the air -chambers exposed by the inroads of the sea that they have been made -into dwellings. Apparently more than one family and all their goods -and chattels are ensconced in the recesses of the rocks, and here they -live a real open air life, free from house tax or any burden in the way -of repairs to their dwellings. The best of water-supplies is close at -hand, indeed the stream which gushes out of the rock provides drinking -water for the whole town, and when I was told that one of these -cave-dwellers was a harmless lunatic, I thought there was a good deal -of method in his madness when I remembered the vile-smelling, stuffy -cottages that most of the poor inhabit. - -_Senecio Kleinia_, or _Kleinia neriifolia_, has the habit of a -miniature dragon tree, its gouty-forked branches having tufts of -blue-green leaves. It remains a shrubby plant about 5 ft. high, and -_Plocama pendula_, with its light weeping form and lovely green colour, -makes a charming contrast to the stiff growth of the Euphorbias -and Kleinias, and all three are so thoroughly typical of the cliff -vegetation that they will probably be the first to attract the -attention of the newcomer. _Artemesia canariensis_ (Canary wormwood) -is easily recognised by its whitish leaf and very strong aromatic -scent, which is far from pleasant when crushed. The native Lavender and -various Chrysanthemums, the parents probably of the so-called “Paris -Daisy” in cultivation, are common weeds, but in March and April, the -months of wild flowers, many more interesting treasures may be found, -and while sitting on the rocks, within reach of one’s hand a bunch -of flowers or low-growing shrubs may be collected, all probably new -to a traveller from northern climes. On the shady damp side of many a -miniature _barranco_ or crevasse will be seen nestling in the shadow of -the rocks which protect them from the salt spray, broad patches of the -wild _Cineraria tussilaginis_, in every shade of soft lilac, prettier -by far than any of the cultivated hybrids. In one inaccessible spot -they were interspersed with a yellow Ranunculus, and close by was one -of the many sow-thistles with its showy yellow flowers. On some of the -steep slopes, too steep happily for the cultivation of the everlasting -banana, the great flower stems of the _Agave rigida_ rear their proud -heads twenty feet in the air, and are the remains of a plantation of -these agaves, which was originally made with a view to cultivating them -in order to extract fibre from their leaves. This variety is the true -_Sisal_ from the Bahamas, botanically known as var. _sisalana_, and -the rapidity with which it increases once the plants are old enough to -bloom may be imagined when it is said that from one single flower-spike -will drop 2000 new plants. Like many other agricultural experiments -in this island, fibre extraction was abandoned, but I heard of some -attempt being made to revive it in the arid island of Lanzarote. Among -the beautiful strata of rock, besides the Euphorbias and prickly pears, -are to be found many low-growing spreading bushes of the succulent, -_Salsola oppositæ folia_, _Ruba fruticosa_, a white-flowering little -_Micromeria_, _Spergularia fimbriata_, whose bright mauve flowers would -be considered a most valuable addition to a so-called “rock garden” in -England, and the low-growing violet-blue _Echium violaceum_, which is -a dreaded weed in Australia, where the seed was probably accidentally -introduced. I often used to think when rambling over this natural rock -garden what lessons might be learnt by studying rock formation before -attempting to lay out in England one of those feeble imitations of -Nature which usually result in lamentable failure, not only in failure -to please the eye, but failure to cultivate the plants through not -providing them with suitable positions. - -Those who have a steady head and do not mind scrambling down steep -narrow paths can get right down on to the rugged rocks, and when a high -sea is running the spray dashes high on to the cliffs, and one sits in -a haze of white mist wondering how any vegetation can stand the salt -spray. The small lilac _Statice pectinata_ grew and flourished in such -surroundings, reminding one that in England statices are generally -called Sea Lavenders because the native English Statice, _S. Limonium_, -grows on marsh land. The miniature-flowered heath-like _Frankenia -ericifolia_ was also at home amid the spray. - -As the path in our wanderings frequently led us back among large farms -or _fincas_ entirely devoted to the cultivation of bananas, it may be -of interest to mention something of the history of this most lucrative -industry. It used to go to my heart to see charming pieces of broken -ground being ruthlessly stripped of their natural vegetation, old -gnarled and twisted fig trees cut down, and an army of men set to work -to break up the soil ready for planting. In most cases the top soil is -removed, and the soft earth-stone underneath is broken up and the top -soil replaced; but the system appears to differ according to the nature -of the soil. Walls are constructed for the protection of the plants, -or in order to terrace the land and get the level necessary for the -system of irrigation concrete channels being made for the water. So -the initial outlay of bringing land into cultivation is heavy, but then -the reward reaped is almost beyond the dreams of avarice. Good land -with water used to fetch over £40 an acre per annum--indeed, I have -even heard of as high a price as £60 having been obtained; that, even -if true, was exceptional; but perhaps nowhere else in the world is land -let for agricultural purposes at such a rate. Land, however good, which -was not irrigated, was only fetching £4 to £6 an acre, and though I -was never able to ascertain exactly how much per acre the water would -cost, there is no doubt the rate is a very high one; so the rent is not -all profit to the landlord. The life of a banana plantation averages -from twelve to fourteen years, but for eighteen months no return is -obtained, except from the potato crop which is planted in between the -young plants, or, rather, the old stumps, from which a young sucker -will spring up and bear fruit. That shoot will again be cut down, and -by that time several suckers will spring up, about three being left as -a rule on a plant, which will each bear fruit in nine or ten months. -An acre of land in full bearing will produce over 2000 bunches, which -have to be gathered, carted, and carefully packed for export. - -Much of the labour on the plantations is done by women, and long -processions of them make their way to the packing-houses, bearing the -immense bunches of green fruit on their heads. Bare-footed, sturdy, -handsome girls many of them, with curiously deep voices in which -they chant with a sing-song note as they trip along with a splendid -upright carriage. Unfortunately their song is instantly broken when -they catch sight of a foreigner, and a chorus of _Peni, peni, peni_, -either getting louder and louder if no attention is paid to the demand, -or turned to a bleating whine for _una perrita_ (a little penny), -accompanied frequently by a volley of stones. Foreigners complain -bitterly of this begging, but they have brought it on themselves by -throwing coins to children as they drive along the road. Or when a -crowd of urchins collects, as if to reward them for their bright black -eyes and pretty faces, which many of them have, a shower of coppers is -thrown to them, so it is small wonder that a race has grown up whose -earliest instinct teaches it to beg, and I feel sure that _Peni_ is -often the first word that a toddling child is taught. - -The packing-houses are also a blot on the landscape, sometimes great -unsightly sheds tacked on to what has once been the summer residence -of an old Spanish family, and here crowds of men, women and girls are -wrapping up the bunches, which are shipped in wooden crates by the -thousand, and tens or even hundreds of thousands, I should imagine, -judging by the endless procession of carts drawn by immense bullocks -which wend their way down to the mole, when a steamer comes in to take -a whole cargo of the fruit to England. I used often to wonder that it -was possible to find such an unlimited market for bananas when one -thinks that Grand Canary ships as many as Teneriffe, and they have a -formidable rival also in Jamaica. It is to be hoped that the trade -will not be overdone and the markets fall, or that a blight will not -come on the plants, and that the Islands will not again suffer from -the ruin which followed the cochineal boom. Bananas are said to have -been introduced to the Canaries from the Gulf of Guinea, but that was -not their real home, and no one knows how they were originally brought -from the Far East. From the Canaries they were sent to the West Indian -Islands in 1516, and on from there to Central America. Oviedo, writing -about the natural history of the West Indies, mentions having seen -bananas growing in the orchard of a monastery at Las Palmas in 1520. -The botanical name of the Banana, _Musa sapientum_, was given in the -old belief that it was the fruit of the tree of knowledge of good and -evil. The variety now under cultivation is _Musa Cavendishii_, the -least tropical and most suitable for cool climates. Locally they are -called _Plátano_, a corruption of the original name _Plántano_, from -plantain in English, under which name they are always known in the -East. Though the plant has been known in the islands for nearly four -centuries, it was of no use as a crop before the water which is so -absolutely necessary for its cultivation was brought down from the -mountains. Some residents--those, I noticed, who did not own banana -plantations--lament that the excessive irrigation has made the climate -of Orotava damper than it used to be, but if the cultivation has -brought about a climatic change, it has also brought about a financial -change in the fortunes of the farmers and landlords, and many an -enterprising man, who a few years ago was just a working _medianero_, -satisfied with his potato or tomato crop, has little by little built -up a very substantial fortune. - -A _medianero_ is a tenant or bailiff who cultivates the ground and -receives a share of the profits. The contract between the landlord -and the _medianero_ varies a good deal on different estates, and the -system is rather complicated, but as a rule he provides his tenant -with a house rent free, pays for half the seed of a cereal, potato or -vegetable crop, but none of the labour for cultivation, and the profits -made on the crop are equally divided. Sometimes, especially in the -case of banana cultivation, the proprietor pays for half the labour of -planting and gathering the crop for sending to market, but never for -any of the intermediate labour. The landlord provides the all-important -water-supply, but all the labour of irrigation has to be done by the -_medianero_, who also pays a share of taxes. The loss of a crop through -blight or a storm is equally shared. The trouble of the system, which -in some ways seems a good one, must come in over the division of the -profits, as either the honesty of the tenant must be implicitly trusted -or an overseer must be present when the crop is gathered to see that -the landlord gets his true _medias_. - -At a higher altitude, some 800 or 900 ft. below the village of Santa -Ursula, which is justly famous for its groups of Canary Palms, is -a large estate, as yet uncultivated from lack of sufficient water. -Besides the natural vegetation which stands the summer drought, the -owner has collected together many drought-resisting plants, among -which are several natives of Australia. The Golden Wattle seemed quite -at home, though the trees have not yet attained the size they would -in their native country, and small groves of _Eucalyptus Lehmanni_, -with their curious fluffy balls of flower, gave welcome shade, and -Australian salt bushes were being grown as an experiment with a view -to providing a new fodder plant. The stony ground was covered with a -low-growing _Cystus monspeliensis_ closely resembling the variety much -prized in England as _florentina_, its white blossoms covering the -bushes. Many of the plants were the same as on the lower cliffs, but -_Convolvulus scoparius_ I was much interested to find growing in its -natural state. The growth so closely resembles that of the _retama_ -that it might easily be mistaken for it; the natives call it _Leña -Noel_ or _Palo de rosa_, but the flower is like a miniature convolvulus -growing all down the stems. Both this and _Convolvulus floridus_ -are known as Canary Rosewoods, and _scoparius_ has become rare owing -to the digging of its roots from which the oil was distilled. Dr. -Morris of Kew was a great admirer of _C. floridus_, and describes -_guadil_, as it is known locally, as “a most attractive plant. When -in flower it appears as if covered with newly fallen snow. It is one -of the few native plants which awaken the enthusiasm of the local -residents.” Many Sempervivums were to be seen, but _S. Lindleyi_ is -most curious. Its fleshy transparent leaves grow in clusters and it -has received the local and very apt name of Guanche grapes. Little -_Scylla iridifolium_ grew everywhere, and one could have spent days -collecting treasures, and I felt torn in two between admiring the -splendid views which the headland commands, and trying to add something -to my most insufficient knowledge of the native plants. Near the house -in cultivated ground were to be seen the two most ornamental native -brooms, _Genista rhodorrhizoides_ and _Cytisus filipes_; both are of -drooping habit, with very sweet-scented white flowers, and should be -more widely cultivated. The former very closely resembles the variety -_mono-sperma_, which grows near the Mediterranean coast. - -[Illustration: STATICES AND PRIDE OF TENERIFFE] - -Here too were to be seen some splendid clumps of the true native -_Statice arborea_ which for many years gave rise to such botanical -discussions. For a long time this variety was lost and a hybrid of -_arborea_ and _macrophylla_ did duty for the true variety, which was -definitely pronounced extinct. It was, I believe, Francis Messon who -first collected this plant in Teneriffe on his way to the Cape in -1773, and describes its locality as “on a rock in the sea opposite the -fountain which waters Port Orotava.” These rocks were the Burgado Cove -to the east of Rambla del Castro, and it was again found growing in -this neighbourhood in 1829 by Berthelot and Webb, who describe it in -their admirable book on the “Histoire Naturelle des Iles Canaries.” -Before this date another French botanist, Broussonet, had “discovered” -the plant a few miles further along the coast, at Dauté near Garachico, -and after its complete disappearance from the Burgado rocks, owing -probably to goats having destroyed it, it was re-discovered in the -Dauté locality a few years ago, through the untiring efforts and -perseverance of Dr. George Perez. Having heard of the plants growing -on inaccessible rocks, he got a shepherd to secure the specimens for -him, the plants being hauled up by means of ropes to which hooks were -attached, and it was no doubt thanks to their position that even goats -were not able to destroy them. So _Statice arborea_ was rescued and is -once more in cultivation, and one of the most ornamental and effective -garden plants it is possible to see. The loose panicles of deep purple -flower-heads last for weeks in perfection, and are so freely produced -that even one plant of it seems to give colour to a whole garden. The -statices endemic to the various islands form quite a long list and -are all ornamental, and prove the fact I have already mentioned of -the extremely restricted area in which many native plants are found. -The true _Statice macrophylla_ finds a home in only a small area on -the north-east coast of Teneriffe and is another very showy species. -_Statice frutescens_ is very similar to _Statice arborea_, but is -of much smaller stature; its native home appears to be--or to have -been--on the rocky promontory of El Freyle, to the extreme west of -Teneriffe. - -From a single high rock, known as Tabucho, near Marca, also on -the west coast, came in 1907 a new variety, at first thought to -be _Preauxii_, but it was eventually found to be an entirely new -contribution and was named _Statice Perezii_ after Dr. Perez who -discovered the plant and sent the specimen to Kew. - -The island of Gomera contributes the very blue-flowered _S. -brassicifolia_, its winged stems making it easy to recognise, and -from Lanzarote comes _S. puberula_, a more dwarf kind, very varying -in colour. These appear to comprise the statices best known now in -cultivation, though there are several other less interesting varieties. - -Here, at Santa Ursula, great interest is also taken in the Echiums, -another race of Canary plants. _Echium simplex_ must be accorded -first place, as it is commonly called Pride of Teneriffe; it bears -one immense spike of white flowers, and like the aloe, after this one -supreme effort the plant dies. The seed luckily germinates freely. From -the island of La Palma had come seed of _Echium pininana_, and tales -of a deep blue flower-spike said to rise from 9 ft. to 15 ft. in the -air, and though the plants were only one year old some showed promise -of flowering. The pinkish flowered _E. auberianum_, like so many of -the statices, has made its home in almost inaccessible places among -the rocks on the Fortaleza at a height of some 7000 ft., close to the -Cañadas. - -Over the walls were hanging masses of _Lotus Berthelotii_, one of the -native plants I most admired. Its long trails of soft grey leaves hang -in garlands and in spring come the deep red flowers. The plant is known -locally as _Pico de paloma_ (pigeon’s beak) and I found one seldom gave -it its true botanical name, which does not seem to fit it. Here again -is another plant whose native lair has been lost. A stretch of country -between Villa Orotava and La Florida is known to have been its home, -but for years past botanists have hunted for it in vain. A variety -which differed slightly found a home in the Pinar above Arico, but that -equally has disappeared. - - - - -V - -TENERIFFE (_continued_) - - -To the east of the town lies a district where, in old days, the -Spaniards built their villas, as summer residences, in which to escape -from the heat and dust of the town. In those days vineyards and -cornfields took the place of banana plantations and potato fields, and -near some of the villas are to be seen to this day the old wine-presses -with their gigantic beams made of the wood of the native pine. These -presses have long been silent and idle, as disease ravaged the vines -some fifty years ago, and “Canary sack” is no longer stored in the vast -cellars of the old houses. - -[Illustration: LA PAZ] - -One of these old villas became our temporary home, so I am to be -forgiven for placing it first on the list. A steep cobbled lane leads -up from the Puerto, bordered with plane trees, and here and there great -clumps of oleanders, to the plateau some 300 feet above the sea on -which stands the house of La Paz. The outer gate is guarded by the -little chapel of Santo Amaro, and once a year the clanging bell summons -worshippers to Mass and to escort the figure of the patron saint, amid -incense and rockets, down the long cypress avenue to the terrace above -the sea. - -Each side of the faded green wooden doorway, two giant cypresses stand -like sentries to guard the gate, through which may be seen, on one -side, a row of flaunting red poinsettias, waving their gaudy blossoms -above a low myrtle hedge, and on the other side the high garden wall -is draped with orange creepers. At right angles to this path facing -the entrance to the house, a long avenue of splendid lance-like -cypresses rises above a thick hedge of myrtles whose trunks speak for -themselves of their immense age. A round flight of low steps leads to -the forecourt, and the tiny inner court is guarded by yet another faded -green doorway. Here flowers run riot in a little garden where prim box -hedges edge the paved walks. On a flagged terrace stands the “House -of Peace,” facing the Atlantic, and from the solid green panelled -door there is an unbroken view down the long, straight avenue to the -dazzling, dancing sea below. - -Over the door is a weather-stained coat-of-arms, and above, again, on -a piece of soft green scroll-work, is the Latin motto “hic est requies -mea,” as here to his house of rest came the original owner, to rest -from his work in the town. - -Very little seems to be known of the history of La Paz, but it seems -fairly certain that it was built by an Irish family of the name of -Walsh; who, with many of their fellow countrymen, emigrated to the -Canaries after the siege of Limerick, and in the church of N. S. de la -Peña de Francia, in the town, the tomb of Bernardo Walsh, who died in -1721, bears the same arms as those which are carved above the door. -The family, who no doubt entered into business in the town, appear to -have found a foreign name inconvenient and changed it into Valois, as -Bernardo Walsh is described as alias Valois. The two Irish families of -Walsh and Cologan intermarried at some time, and the property passed to -the Cologans, who assumed the Spanish title of Marquez de la Candia; to -this family La Paz still belongs, though it is many years since they -have lived there, and the present owner, who lives in Spain, has never -even seen the property. - -The traveller Humboldt is said to have been a guest at La Paz for a few -days, which has caused many Germans to call it “Humboldt’s villa,” and -even to go so far as to say that he built it, though he only paid a -flying visit of four days to Orotava in 1799. From the account of his -visit in his “Personal Narrative” it appears doubtful as to whether -he stayed at La Paz or at the house belonging to the Cologan family, -in Villa Orotava. Alluding to his short stay, he remarks: “It is -impossible to speak of Orotava without recalling to the remembrance of -the friends of science, the name of Don Bernardo Cologan, whose house -at all times was open to travellers of every nation. We could have -wished to have sojourned for some time in Don Bernardo’s house, and to -have visited with him the charming scenery of San Juan de la Rambla. -But on a voyage such as we had undertaken, the present is but little -enjoyed. Continually haunted by the fear of not executing the design -of to-morrow we live in perpetual uneasiness....” Further on he says: -“Don Cologan’s family has a country house nearer the coast than that -I have just mentioned. This house, called La Paz, is connected with -a circumstance that rendered it peculiarly interesting to us. M. le -Borde, whose death we deplored, was its inmate during his last visit to -the Canary Islands. It was in a neighbouring plain that he measured the -base, by which he determined the height of the Peak.” The house has no -pretensions to any great architectural beauty, but has an air of peace -and stateliness which the hand of time gives to many a house of far -less imposing dimensions than its modern neighbour. - -On one side of the house a few steps lead down to the walled garden, -a large square outlined and traversed by vine-clad pergolas, which -again form four more squares. In the centre of one an immense pine tree -shelters a round water basin, where papyrus and arums make a welcome -shelter for the tiny green frogs. One feature of these old Spanish -gardens might well be copied in other lands; a low double plaster wall -some two feet thick, called locally a _poyo_, makes a charming border -for plants: geraniums, verbenas, stocks, carnations, poppies, and the -hanging _Pico de paloma_, all look their best grown in this way, and at -a lower level a wide low seat ran along the walls. The beds were edged -with sweet-smelling geranium, the white-leafed salvia, a close-growing -thyme, or box, all kept clipped in neat, compact hedges. Some of the -garden has now, alas! been given over to a more profitable use than -that of growing flowers, and a potato crop is succeeded in summer by -maize, but enough remains for a wealth of flowering trees, shrubs, -creepers and plants. The brilliant orange _Bignonia venusta_ covers a -long stretch of the pergola, drapes the garden wall and climbs up to -the flat roof-top of one of the detached wings of the house. In summer -a white stephanotis disputes possession and covers the tiled roof of -a garden shed, filling the whole air with its delicious scent. Among -other sweet-smelling plants were daturas, whose great trumpets are -especially night-scented flowers, and in early spring the tiny white -blossoms of the creeping smilex smell so much like the orange blossoms -which have not yet opened, that their delicious fragrance might easily -be mistaken for it. Sweet-scented geraniums grow in every corner, and -heliotropes, sweet peas and stocks all add to the fragrance of the -garden. - -The grounds contain several good specimen palms, too many perhaps -for the health of flowers, as their roots seem to poison the ground; -hibiscus, coral trees, pittosperums and a long list of trees common -to most sub-tropical gardens find a home, but the tree I most admired -was a venerable specimen of the native olive growing near a grove of -feathery giant bamboos. - -The cypress avenue leads to a broad terrace at a dizzy height above -the sea; the surf beats against the cliffs below, but the salt air -does not seem to affect the beautiful vegetation, and for long years -great clumps of Euphorbias and Kleinias have stood against the winter -storms when great breakers roll in and crash against the rocks. On -the left lies the little flat town of the Puerto, over which in clear -weather the Island of La Palma emerges from its mantle of clouds, and -many a gorgeous sunset bathes the whole town in a mist of rosy light, -recalling the legend that in days of old, navigators had christened the -little fishing-port the Puerto de Oro, after Casa de Oro, the House of -Gold, which title they had given to the Peak, as night after night the -setting sun had turned its cap of snow to pale gold. - -On the right the broken coast-line stretches away into the far -distance, and the mountains rise above the little villages; they in -their turn are caught by the setting sun and kissed by her last -departing rays, and turned to a rosy pink, but as the ball of fire -sinks into the sea, the shadows creep up, and in one moment in this -land which knows no twilight, the light is gone and the cold greyness -of night takes possession. - -Just behind La Paz are the Botanical gardens, which owe their existence -to the Marquez de Nava, who in 1795 undertook at enormous expense to -level the hill of Durasno, and lay it out for receiving the treasures -of other climes. Though complaints are often made of its distance from -the so-called “English colony,” the site was well chosen, as the soil -on this side of the _barranco_, which separates it from the lava bed, -is decidedly more fertile, and being of a heavier nature and deeper is -less liable to blight and disease, which are the curse of the gardens -on light dry soil, and which no amount of irrigation will cure. In -this garden are collected treasures from every part of the world; new -ground is sadly needed as the immense trees and shrubs have made the -cultivation of flowers a great difficulty. Humboldt appreciated the -use of these gardens for the introduction of plants from Asia, Africa -and South America, remarking that: “In happier times when maritime -wars shall no longer interrupt communication, the garden of Teneriffe -may become extremely useful with respect to the great number of plants -which are sent from the Indies to Europe: for ere they reach our coasts -they often perish owing to the length of the passage, during which they -inhale an air impregnated with salt water. These plants would meet at -Orotava with the care and climate necessary for their preservation; at -Durasno, the Protea, the Psidium, the Jambos, the Chirinoya of Peru, -the sensitive plant, and the Heliconia all grow in the open air.” - -[Illustration: BOTANICAL GARDENS, OROTAVA] - -To give a list of all the trees and plants would be an impossibility -and any one who is interested in them will find an excellent account of -the gardens in a pamphlet written by Dr. Morris of Kew, who was much -interested in his visit to the Canary Islands in 1895. The gardens -for some years fell into a neglected state from lack of funds, but -once again bid fair to regain their former glory under new management. -Among the chief ornaments of the gardens are the very fine specimens -of the native pine, _Pinus canariensis_, an immense _Ficus nitida_, -one of the best shade-giving trees, and travellers from the tropics -will recognise an old friend in _Ravenala madagascariensis_, the -“Traveller’s Tree,” in the socket of whose leaves water is always to be -found. - -Further up the road is the property of San Bartolomeo; the land is now -entirely devoted to banana cultivation, the house is handed over to -the tender mercies of a _medianero_, and the garden tells a tale of -departed glories. In the _patio_ of the house a donkey is stalled under -a purple bougainvillea, and tall cypresses look down reproachfully at -the fallen state of things. In the chapel of the house mass is still -said daily, but for seven years I was told the _sala_ had not been -opened. In the garden the myrtle hedges have grown out of all bounds, -jessamines have become a dense tangle, and the plaster _poyos_, which -once were full of plants, are crumbling to decay. - -Near by is El Cypres, formerly a villa, and named after its splendid -cypresses, which mark every old Spanish garden, and now unfortunately -appear to be little planted. This villa has been turned into a -_pension_, and its glory is also departed. El Drago has been more -fortunate, and has been rescued by foreign hands, and the wealth -of creepers, especially _Plumbago capensis_, which in autumn has a -complete canopy of pale blue flowers clambering over the pergolas, -together with its splendid trees, make a landmark in the landscape. - -A few miles away I wandered one evening into another deserted garden, -not entirely uncared for, as I was told the owner from the villa -came there for a few weeks in summer. This garden showed that it had -originally been laid out with great care and thought, not in the -haphazard way which spoils so many gardens, and afterwards I learnt -that it had been planned by a Portuguese gardener, and I recognised -the little beds with their neat box hedges, the clumps of rosemaries -and heaths which, though they were somewhat unkempt, showed that in -former days they had been clipped into shape after the manner of -all true Portuguese gardens. The garden walls and plaster seats of -charming designs showed traces of fresco work in delicate colouring, -and soft green tiles edged the water basin, in which grew a tangle of -papyrus, yams and arums. A garden house, whose roof was completely -covered with wistaria, was surrounded by a balcony whose walls had -also been frescoed, but now, alas, packing cases for bananas had -sorely damaged them. The sole occupants of the garden appeared to be -a pair of peacocks; the male bird at the sight of an intruder spread -his fan and strutted down the terrace steps to do the honours of the -garden. The flower-beds, which had once been full of begonias, lilies, -pelargoniums, and every kind of treasured plant, are now too much -overshadowed by large trees, but I longed to have the restoring of this -garden to its former beauty. - -On the other side of the yawning _barranco_ lie Sant Antonio and El -Sitio del Pardo, both old houses, built long before the town began to -develop and new houses cropped up on the western side. Across this -_barranco_ a new road, which was to lead from the _carretera_ to the -Puerto, was commenced some years ago, and left unfinished, after even -the bridge had been constructed, because the owner of a small piece of -land refused to sell, or allow the road to pass through his property. -Thus it remains a “broken road,” because, in true Spanish fashion, no -one had taken the trouble to make sure that the land was available -before the undertaking was commenced; and still all the traffic to the -port has to wind its way slowly along several miles of unnecessary -road. - -[Illustration: EL SITIO DEL GARDO] - -El Sitio is another old villa which was visited by Humboldt, who was -present on the eve of St. John’s Day at a pastoral _fête_ in the garden -of Mr. Little, who appears to have been the original owner of El Sitio. -Humboldt says: “This gentleman, who rendered great service to the -Canarians during the last famine, has cultivated a hill covered with -volcanic substances. He has formed in this delicious site an English -garden, whence there is a magnificent view of the Peak, of the villages -along the coast, and the isle of La Palma, which is bounded by the -vast expanse of the Atlantic. I cannot compare this prospect with any, -except the views of the Bay of Genoa and Naples; but Orotava is greatly -superior to both in the magnitude of the masses and richness of the -vegetation. In the beginning of the evening, the slope of the volcano -exhibited on a sudden a most extraordinary spectacle. The shepherds, in -conformity to a custom no doubt introduced by the Spaniards, though it -dates from the highest antiquity, had lighted the fires of St. John. -The scattered masses of fire, and the columns of smoke driven by the -wind, formed a fine contrast with the deep verdure of the forest, which -covered the sides of the Peak. Shouts of joy resounding from afar -were the only sounds that broke the silence of nature in the solitary -regions.” - -El Sitio is also well known as being the house where Miss North made -her headquarters when she visited Teneriffe, and made her collection -of drawings of plants from Canary Gardens, which are in the gallery -at Kew. Miss North, in her book of “Recollections,” appears to have -thoroughly enjoyed her stay, and describes this garden as follows: - -“There were myrtle trees ten or twelve feet high, Bougainvilleas -running up cypress trees. Mrs. Smith (the owner of the garden -in those days) complained of their untidiness, and great white -Longiflorum lilies growing as high as myself. The ground was white -with fallen orange and lemon petals; the huge white Cherokee roses -(_Rosa lævigata_) covered a great arbour and tool-house with their -magnificent flowers. I never smelt roses so sweet as those in that -garden. Over all peeped the snowy point of the Peak, at sunrise and -sunset most gorgeous, but even more dazzling in the moonlight. From -the garden I could stroll up some wild hills of lava, where Mr. Smith -had allowed the natural vegetation of the island to have all its own -way. Magnificent aloes, cactus, euphorbias, arums, cinerarias, sundry -heaths, and other peculiar plants, were to be seen in their fullest -beauty. Eucalyptus trees had been planted on the top, and were doing -well with their bark hanging in rags and tatters about them. I scarcely -ever went out without finding some new wonder to paint, lived a life of -most perfect peace and happiness, and got strength every day with my -kind friends.” - -This property has been fortunate enough to pass to other hands who -still appreciate it, and the above paragraph, though written so many -years ago, is still a very good description of the garden. - -Sant Antonio has not been so fortunate. For some years its garden was -the pride of Orotava. In the terraced ground in front of the house, -plants and trees from every part of the world found a home; but when -the maker of this garden left it, the owner ruthlessly tore up the -garden to plant bananas. Here and there among the banana-groves may -be seen a solitary bougainvillea still climbing over its trellised -archway, but little remains, except on one terrace below the house, to -show that the garden was ever cared for. In the grounds there still -remains some very good _treillage_ work. The pattern of the screens, -arches, and arbours are distinctly Chippendale in character and design, -and are painted a soft dull green. In several other instances I noticed -admirable patterns in the woodwork of screens to deep verandahs, and in -the upper part of wooden doorways. Chippendale must at one time have -been much admired and copied in the Canaries, and to this day, in even -the humblest cottage, the chairs are of true Chippendale design, though -roughly carved. - - - - -VI - -TENERIFFE (_continued_) - - -Icod de los Vinos, a little town on the coast, some seventeen miles -from Orotava, was in the days of its prosperity a great centre of the -wine and cochineal trade. Its prosperous days are a thing of the past, -and to-day it appears to be rather a sleepy little town; but possibly -for just this reason it is more picturesque than some of its richer -neighbours, whose inhabitants can afford to build modern and most -unsightly houses. - -The drive from Orotava to Icod is by far the most beautiful drive -in the island. Once the dusty stretch of _carretera_ between the -junction of the road from Tacoronte to the Puerto is left behind, the -drive becomes full of interest. The road passes below the picturesque -little village of Realejo Bajo, skirts the towering cliffs on which -is perched the little village of Icod el Alto some 1700 ft. above, -and winds along the sea shore. Every turn of the road brings into -sight a fresh view of the deeply indented coast-line between the -storm-bent old tamarisk trees which edge the road for miles. The long -avenues of eucalyptus trees, with their ragged bark hanging in strips, -will always be associated in my mind with all the carriage roads in -Teneriffe. Early in March the vegetation reminds one that spring -has begun. The geraniums in the cottage gardens are showing promise -of their summer glory, fringing the walls or hanging in long trails -from the little flat roof tops. The winter rains have washed the dust -off the hedge-rows and banks, and in places where water is dripping -from the rocks they are draped with a thick coating of maiden-hair -fern, and the pale lilac blossoms of the wild coltsfoot, _Cineraria -tussilaginis_, stud the banks. I should imagine this to have been the -parent of the variety known in cultivation as _Cineraria stellata_, so -much grown of late years in English greenhouses. The rocks themselves -are studded with the curious flat _Sempervivum tabulæformæ_, looking -like great green nail heads, and _S. canariensis_ was just throwing up -flower-spikes from its rosettes of cabbage-like leaves. Here and there -a little waterfall gives welcome moisture to water-loving plants. -Common brambles, encouraged by the dampness, grow to vast dimensions -and hang in rich profusion, winding themselves into cords until they -look like the lianes of a tropical forest. Far down in the crevasse -below the stone bridges, the long fronds of ferns, the untorn leaves of -a seedling banana, with the large leaves of the common yam, suggest a -sub-tropical garden. - -Between the road and the sea are great stretches of land cultivated -with bananas, a mine of wealth to their owners, who now no longer visit -their summer residences on these estates. Neglected gardens tell a tale -of departed glories, and many of the houses are left to fall to rack -and ruin, or are merely inhabited by the _medianero_ who has rented the -ground. - -Near the outskirts of San Juan de la Rambla a stone arch crosses the -road, and just beyond, the deep Barranco Ruiz cuts into the mountain -sides. It is a grand rocky ravine, and by a steep narrow path which -winds up the side it is possible to reach Icod el Alto at the top of -the _barranco_. - -The little town of San Juan de la Rambla is very picturesquely -situated, and every traveller is shown the beautifully carved latticed -balcony on an old house, as the carriage rattles through the little -narrow street. We are told that luckily the balcony is made of the -very hard and durable wood of the beautiful native pine, _Pinus -canariensis_, which is rapidly becoming a rare tree in the lower parts -of the island. The wood itself is locally called _tea_, and the trees -are called _teasolas_ by the country people, who know no other name for -them. - -Once San Juan is passed the Peak becomes the centre of interest. -The luxuriant vegetation is left behind, the beauty of the coast is -forgotten, and the completely different aspect which the Peak presents -from this side absorbs one’s attention. The foreground is nothing -but rocky ground, but numbers of _Cistus Berthelotianus_ brighten up -the barren ground with their bushes of showy rose-coloured flowers. -In places they were interspersed with great quantities of asphodels, -whose branching spikes of starry white and brownish flowers seem hardly -worthy of their romantic name. In reality they have always sadly -shattered my mental picture of the asphodel--the chosen flower of the -ancients, the flower of blessed oblivion--this surely should have been -a superb lily, pure white, and “fields of asphodels” which we read -of should be rich green meadows full of moisture, where the lilies -should grow knee deep, not arid tufa slopes where erect rods of this -strange blossom rise from a cluster of half-starved narrow leaves. The -local name is _gamona_, and in Grand Canary where they abound, one -large tract of land is called _El llano de las gamonas_, the plain of -asphodels. - -At a higher level begins the _Pinar_ or forest of that most beautiful -of all pines, the native _Pinus canariensis_. Here on the lower -cultivated ground the few specimens that remain, having escaped -complete destruction, are mostly mutilated, having had all their lower -branches cut for firewood or possibly for fear they should shade some -little patch of potatoes or onions, and the younger trees resemble a -mop more than a tree, with nothing left but a tuft of fluffy branches -at the top. - -The little town of Icod de los Vinos is prettily situated, being -built on a great slope, intersected by many streams of lava. There is -a very picturesque Plaza with a little garden and fountain in front -of the old convent of San Augustin, whose façade has several carved -latticed balconies which are the great beauty of all the old houses in -Teneriffe. - -Visitors to Icod are all taken to see their famous dragon tree, -_Dracæna Draco_, of which the inhabitants are justly proud, as it is -now the largest and oldest in the island since the destruction of its -rival in Villa Orotava. We were assured its age was over 3000 years, an -assertion I was not prepared to dispute, and hardly even ventured to -look incredulous, and so cast a slur on their almost sacred _El drago_. -There is no doubt the growth of these trees is almost incredibly slow; -they increase in height in the same way as a palm, putting out new -leaves in the heart of the tufted crowns and dropping an equal number -of old ones, which process leaves a curiously scarred marking on the -bark. No one seems to know how often a tuft flowers, but certainly -only once in many years, and it is only after flowering that the stem -forks, so in specimens which are centuries old the head of the tree -becomes a mass of short branches with tufted heads, which in their turn -become divided, and so it goes on until one begins to wonder whether -there is not some truth in the immense age attributed to them. The -curious aerial roots which descend from the branches gradually creep -down, and it is the layers upon layers of these that strengthen the -original stem sufficiently to enable it to bear the immense weight of -its tufted crown, as decay seems always to set in in the heart of the -stem, and by the time the trees attain to a venerable age they are -invariably hollow. An old document describing the tree says “it has no -heart within. The wood is very spongy and light, so that it serves for -the covering of hives or making shields. The gum which this tree exudes -is called dragon’s blood, and that which the tree sweats out without -cutting is the best, and is called ‘blood by the drop.’ It is very good -for medicine, for sealing letters, and for making the teeth red.” - -Icod is a good centre for expeditions, and those who are brave enough -to face the dirt and discomfort of a Spanish _fonda_ can pass a week -or so very pleasantly. It is a matter of great regret that better -accommodation is not available in many of the smaller towns, and I own -that personally I could never bring myself to face the native inn. No -scenery is worth the discomfort of dirty beds, impossible food and -the noise of the _patio_ of a _fonda_, where as often as not, goats, -chickens, pigeons and a braying donkey all add to the concert of the -harsh loud voices of the women servants. - -Now that motor-cars are available in Orotava it renders matters much -easier for making expeditions in the day. Formerly, the greater part -of the day was occupied by the drive to and from Icod, but if an early -start is made, on arrival at Icod there is still a long day before one, -and it is possible to make a visit to the old Guanche burial caves or -to continue the road to Garachico. This now unimportant little village -was once the chief port of the island, and the number of old churches -and convents still remaining speak for themselves of the former -importance of the place. In the days when Icod de los Vinos, as its -name implies, was celebrated for its vines, the wine which was made -there was shipped from the port of Garachico. The old sugar factory -which still stands was once the property of an English firm, but the -various booms in the wine, cochineal and sugar trade, are things of the -past, and Orotava is now the centre of the banana boom. - -Possibly the pleasantest expeditions from Icod are those which lead -through the pine forest past the Ermita Sta. Barbara. Good walkers -will find magnificent walks along fairly level paths once they have -accomplished the first climb of about 3000 ft., and can make their way -along to the Corona and down the steep zig-zag path below Icod el Alto, -or there is a lower track which makes a good mule ride back to Orotava. - - - - -VII - -TENERIFFE (_continued_) - - -Many visitors to Teneriffe find their way across the mountains from -Orotava to Guimar in the course of the winter or spring, which is the -best time for the expedition. Though the actual time required for the -journey from point to point may be only about seven hours, according -to the condition of the road, it is best to make an early start and to -have the whole day before one, so as to have plenty of time to rest on -the way and enjoy all there is to be seen. - -Once the last steep streets of the Villa Orotava are left behind the -country at once changes its aspect. The banana fields, which have -become somewhat monotonous after a long stay in their midst, have -vanished, the air is cooler, and in the early morning the ground -is saturated with dew. In spring the young corn makes the country -intensely green, and the pear and other fruit blossoms lighten up -the landscape, while in the hedge-rows are clumps of the little red -_Fuchsia coccinea_, and great bushes of the common yellow broom. Here -and there the two Canary St. John’s worts, _Hypericum canariensis_ and -_H. floribundum_, are covered with berries, their flowers having fallen -some months before. Ferns and sweet violets grow on the damp and shady -banks, and occasionally fine bushes of _Cytisus prolifer_ were to be -seen smothered with their soft, silky-looking white flowers. Gradually -the region of the chestnut woods is reached, but these having only -dropped their leaves after the spell of cold weather early in January, -are still leafless, and it is sad to see how terribly the trees are -mutilated by the peasants. Though not allowed to fell whole trees, the -law does not appear to protect their branches, and often nothing but -the stump and a few straggling boughs remain, the rest having been -hacked off for firewood. Small bushes of the white-flowered _Erica -arborea_ soon appear, and the showy rose-coloured flowers of _Cistus -vaginatus_ were new to me. - -At a height of about 3800 feet the level of the strong stream called -Agua Mansa is reached, and though it is not actually on the road to -Guimar many travellers make a short détour to visit the source of the -stream and the beautifully wooded valley. The absence of woods in the -lower country no doubt makes the vegetation on the steep slopes of -the little gorge doubly appreciated. Many narrow paths lead through -the laurel and heath, and on the shady side of the valley the extreme -moisture of the air has clothed the stems of the trees with grey -hoary lichens. The luxury of the sound of a running stream is rare -in Teneriffe and one is tempted to linger and enjoy the scene under -a giant chestnut tree, which has shaded many a picnic party from the -Puerto. - -By retracing one’s steps for a short distance the track is regained; -Pedro Gil looms far ahead and the long steep ascent begins, up the -narrow mule path among thickets of the tree heaths. Here these heaths -are merely shrubby, not the splendid specimens which may be seen near -Agua Garcia, where they are protected from the charcoal-burners, but -the wide stretches covered with white flowers are very lovely appearing -through the mist, which even on the finest day is apt to sweep across -occasionally. The vegetation on these Cumbres is much the same as that -which is passed through on the way to the Cañadas, and in spring the -_Adenocarpus viscosus_ or _anagyrus_, its tiny yellow flowers growing -among the small leaves which crowd the branches, is about the last -sign of plant life. Above this region are merely occasional patches of -moss which live on the moisture of the mist which more often than not -enwraps these heights. In clear weather, the long and rather tedious -scramble of the last part of the road is soon forgotten in the delight -at the magnificent view at the end. The top of the pass, 6800 ft., is -like the back-bone of the island, and on the one side the whole valley -of Orotava lies stretched below, with the Peak standing grand and -majestic on the left, and on the other side lie the slopes down to the -pine woods above Arafo. It is hard to agree with a writer who describes -the scene as one of “immense desolation and ugliness, the silence -broken only by the croaking voice of a crow passing overhead.” It is -just this silence and stillness which appeals to so many in mountain -regions; there is something intensely restful yet awe-inspiring in the -complete peace which reigns in high altitudes in fair weather. - -[Illustration: CONVENT OF SANT AUGUSTIN, ICOD DE LOS VINOS] - -A long pause is necessary to rest both man and beast, as not only is -the path a long and trying one, but it is possible for the sun to -be so extremely hot even at that altitude that it seems to bake the -steep and arid slopes of lava and volcanic sand, and the loose cinders -near the end of the climb make bad going for the mules. The so-called -path becomes almost invisible except to the quick eye of the mules, -accustomed as they are to pick their way across these stretches of -loose scoriæ. Often the question “Which is the way?” is met by the -owner of the mule answering “_Il mulo sabe_” (the mule knows), instead -of saying, “To the right” or “To the left,” and I generally found he -was right. - -Many people prefer the ascent to the descent, and certainly though -I have nothing but praise for mules as a means of locomotion going -uphill, there are moments when I preferred to trust to my own legs -going down the loose cindery track. - -The fact that the eastern mountain slopes are warmer and drier, as the -rainfall is not so great, encourages the vegetation to rise to a much -higher altitude and the barren world of lava and cinders is sooner -left behind. Our old friend the _Adenocarpus_ soon greeted us, like -a pioneer of plant life, and gradually came the different regions of -pine, tree heaths, laurels, and then the grassy slopes. - -The gorge known as the Valle is described as “one of the most -stupendous efforts of eruptive force to be seen in the world, the gap -appearing to have been absolutely thrown into space.” A network of what -might well be mistaken for dykes seems to cut up the surface, and the -whole formation of the Valle is of great interest to geologists. To -the ordinary observer it is certainly suggestive of a desolate waste, -and the black hill known as the Volcan of 1705 does not help to give -life to the scene. The white lichen, which is the true pioneer of plant -life, is only beginning to appear, though in crevices where deep cracks -in the lava have probably exposed soil below the sturdy Euphorbias are -getting a hold, and a few other robust plants, such as the feathery -_Sonchus leptocephalus_, which I have always noticed seems to revel -in lava. Possibly another century may make a great difference to the -scene, but certainly during the past two hundred years there has not -been much sign of returning vegetation, and the fiery stream has done -its work thoroughly. The relief is great at once more reaching the pine -woods above Arafo, and the fatigue, not peril, of the descent being -over it is pleasant to find the comfort of the well-named Buen Retiro -Hotel at Guimar. - -Though over a thousand feet above the sea, the situation is so -sheltered that Guimar boasts of one of the best and sunniest climates -in Teneriffe, the little village lying as it were in a nest among the -hills. The flowery garden of the hotel tells its own tale, better than -any advertisement or guide-book, and a week may be spent exploring the -various _barrancos_ in the neighbourhood, especially by botanists, -or lovers of plants. The Barranco del Rio is renowned as being about -the best botanical collecting ground in the island. Dr. Morris says -he found there no fewer than a hundred different species of native -plants, many of which he had not seen elsewhere. The dripping rocks are -clothed with maiden-hair fern, and the giant buttercup, _Ranunculus -cortusæfolius_, appears to revel in the damp and the high air. The -Barranco Badajoz is perhaps wilder and more precipitous; in places the -rocky walls of these gorges rise to 200 ft., and appeal immensely to -those who enjoy wild scenery. The lack of a roaring river tumbling -down them I never quite got over, during all my stay in Teneriffe. -Perhaps in a bygone age they existed, and owing to some eruption cracks -were formed and the water vanished, as the bed of the stream seems to -be there, but, alas! no water or only a trickling stream. The tiniest -stream has to be utilised to provide water for a village below or for -irrigation purposes, and this, combined with the deforestation of the -island, no doubt has helped to drain the _barrancos_. There is more -water in the Guimar ravines than in most, and from the Barranco del Rio -or the Madre del Agua I should imagine the whole water-supply of the -village is derived. - -Those who are interested in relics should visit Socorro, about an hour -distant from Guimar, the original home of the miraculous image of the -Virgin de Candelaria. So celebrated was this image that nearly a whole -book on the subject has been issued by the Hakluyt Society, edited and -translated from old documents by Sir Clement Markham. The image is -supposed to have been found in about the year 1400, by some shepherds, -standing upright on a stone in a dry deserted spot near the sandy -beach. A cross was afterwards erected by Christians when the Spaniards -occupied the island to mark the spot, and in front of it was built the -small hermitage called El Socorro. One shepherd saw what he supposed -to be a woman carrying a child standing in his path, and as the law in -those days forbad a man to speak to a woman alone in a solitary place, -on pain of death, he made signs to her to move away in order that he -and his sheep might pass. No notice being taken and no reply made, he -took up a stone in order to hurl it at the supposed woman, but his arm -became instantly stiff, and he could not move it. His companion, though -filled with fear, sought to ascertain whether she was a living woman, -and tried to cut one of her fingers, but only cut his own, and did not -even mark the finger of the image. These accordingly were the two first -miracles of the sacred figure. - -These shepherds related their experiences to the Lord of Guimar, who -after being shown the stiff arm and cut fingers of the men, summoned -his councillors to consult as to what had best be done. Accompanied -by his followers and guided by the shepherds, he came to the spot and -ordered the shepherds to lift the figure, as it apparently was no -living thing, and to remove it to his house. On approaching the image -to carry out their Lord’s orders, the stiff arm of the one and the cut -fingers of the other instantly became cured. The Lord and his followers -were so struck with the strange and splendid dress of the woman, who -was now invested as well with supernatural powers, that they lost their -first terror. Determined to do honour to so strange a guest within -his dominions, the Lord of Guimar raised the image in his arms and -transported it to his own house. - -Unbelievers say that the image was merely the figure-head of a ship -which was washed up on the beach, but the faithful maintain that so -beautiful was the image, so gorgeous its apparel and so brilliant the -gold with which it was gilded, that it was the work of no human hands, -and contact with the sea would have destroyed the brilliancy of its -colouring. - -The Lord of Guimar sent the news of the wonderful discovery to the -other chiefs in the island, offering that the image, evidently endowed -with supernatural and healing powers, should spend half the year within -the territory of the Lord of Taoro. This offer was declined, but the -chief came with many followers to see the new wonder, which was set -up on the altar in a cave and guarded with great care. For some forty -years the image remained in the care of infidels, who regarded it -with great awe, and then it fell to the lot of a boy named Auton, who -had been converted to Christianity by the Spaniards, to enlighten the -natives as to the nature of their treasure. On being shown the figure -he instantly recognised it as being a representation of the Virgin, -and after having prayed before it, he instructed the natives in the -story of the Virgin Mary. The boy was in return made sacristan of the -image and it was guarded day and night. At certain intervals visions -of processions on the beach were seen and remains of wax candles were -found, and a shower of wax upon the beach was supposed to have been -sent to provide wax for candles to be burnt in honour of Our Lady of -Candelaria. - -The neighbouring islands soon heard tales of the holy relic and the -inhabitants came to visit it. For several centuries wonderful miracles -were at different times ascribed to it, and it continued to be regarded -with the deepest reverence, though the housing and care of the image -was the cause of various feuds, and on one occasion it was stolen and -carried away to Fuerteventura, but was returned. - -Unfortunately, during a great storm in 1826, the holy relic was swept -away into the sea, and thus was the original Virgin de Candelaria -lost, and though a new image was made and blessed by the Pope it has -never been regarded with quite the same awe and reverence, though many -pilgrims visit the church on August 15, the feast of Candelaria, and -again on February 2. - - - - -VIII - -GRAND CANARY - - -I have noticed that there is always a certain amount of jealousy -existing between the inhabitants of a group of islands. In old days -they were of course absolutely unknown to each other, and even spoke -such a different language that they had some difficulty in making -themselves understood. Though such is naturally not the case to-day -when in a few hours the little Interinsular steamers cross from one -island to another, still in Teneriffe you are apt to be told there -is nothing to be seen in Grand Canary, or if you happen to visit Las -Palmas first you will probably be told you are wasting your time -in proposing to spend some weeks or months in Teneriffe or in even -contemplating a flying visit to the other islands. - -It was with a feeling of great curiosity that I watched our approach -to Grand Canary, as one evening late in May our steamer crept round -the isthmus known as La Isleta and glided into the harbour of Puerto -de la Luz. Many towns look their best from the sea and this is perhaps -especially true of Las Palmas. The sun was setting behind the low hills -which rise above the long line of sand dunes, dotted with tamarisks, -running between the port and the isleta, and in the evening light the -town itself, some three miles away, looked far from unattractive, its -cathedral towers rising above the palm trees on the shore. - -On landing the illusion is soon destroyed; the dust, which is the curse -of Las Palmas, was being blown gaily along by the north-east wind, -which seems to blow perpetually, and the steam tram which connects the -port and the town was grinding along, emitting showers of black smoke, -and I began to think the writer was not far wrong who said Las Palmas -was “a place of barbed wire and cinders.” - -Most travellers’ destination is the hotel at Santa Catalina, lying -midway between the port and the town, and here many of them remain for -the rest of their stay, not being tempted ever to set foot outside the -pleasant grounds and comfortable hotel, except possibly to play a game -of golf on the links above, which are a great attraction and boon to -those who are spending the winter basking in the sunshine in search of -health. - -The island appears to have altered its name from Canaria to Gran -Canaria because of the stout resistance offered by the natives, who -called themselves Canarios, to the Spanish invasion. The original -name is said to have had some connection with the breed of large dogs -peculiar to the island, though none appear to exist now. As regards the -shape of the island the following is a very good description: “The form -of the island is nearly circular, and greatly resembles a saucerful -of mud turned upside down, with the sides furrowed by long and deep -ravines. The highest point is a swelling upland known as Los Pechos, -6401 ft.” I own that as I approached the island there was a curious -sense of something lacking, something missing, and then I realised -that we were no longer to live under the shadow of the Peak, that an -occasional distant glimpse is all we should see of the great mountain -which we had grown to look on as a friend. - -The nearest object of interest to the hotel is the Santa Catalina -fountain, where in August 1492, after praying in the chapel, -Christopher Columbus filled his water-barrels with a store of water -which was to last him until the New World was sighted. Columbus on each -of his expeditions touched at the Canaries; but at the very outset of -his first voyage, one of his ships having lost her rudder and suffered -other damage in storms encountered on the way, Columbus cruised for -three weeks among the islands in search of another vessel to replace -his _caravel_. Though he heard rumours of three Portuguese _caravels_ -hovering off the coast of Ferro (now called Hierro) three days’ calm -detained him, and by the time he reached the neighbourhood where the -ships had been seen, they had vanished, and repairing his rudder as -best he could he started in search of an unknown land, eventually -reaching one of the Bahama group. Columbus’ next visit to the Canaries -was on his second voyage of discovery, when he again called at the -islands, this time taking wood, water, live stock, plants and seeds to -be propagated in Hispaniola, where he had already been so struck with -the beautiful and varied vegetation. In the town of Las Palmas an old -house is pointed out as the house where Christopher Columbus died; -but I am afraid, if we are to believe historians, this is merely a -flight of the imagination. In Washington Irving’s “Life of Columbus” -we are told that he died at Seville surrounded by devoted friends, and -a note says: “The body of Columbus was first deposited in the convent -of St. Francisco, and his obsequies were celebrated with funereal pomp -in the parochial church of Santa Maria de la Antigua, in Valladolid. -His remains were transported in 1513 to the Carthusian convent of Las -Cuevas, in Seville. In the year 1536 the bodies of Columbus and his son -Diego were removed to Hispaniola and interred by the side of the grand -altar of the cathedral of the city of San Domingo. But even here they -did not rest in quiet; for on the cession of Hispaniola to the French -in 1795 they were again disinterred, and conveyed by the Spaniards with -great pomp and ceremony to the cathedral of Havanna in Cuba, where they -remain at present.” - -One of the easiest expeditions from Las Palmas is along the main road -to the south of the island, either driving or by motor. Long stretches -of banana fields provide the fruit for the English market, which finds -its way daily on to the mole: and in spring hundreds of carts, with -potato-boxes labelled “Covent Garden,” come from the same district. -A little way before reaching the village of Tinama, which is built -amid desolate surroundings of lava and black cinders, the road passes -through a tunnel, which must have been somewhat of an undertaking to -bore, and then a vast bed of lava crosses the road. Here some huge -clumps of _Euphorbia canariensis_ show that this plant is not peculiar -to any one island, but is equally at home on any bed of lava or cliff. - -Telde, famous for its oranges--said to be the best in the world--is not -a very interesting town; but from a little distance, combined with the -almost adjoining village of Los Llanos, its Moorish dome amid groves -of palm trees, and scattered groups of white houses, make it unlike -most other Canary towns. The celebrated orange groves are some distance -off, and it is feared that so little care is taken of the trees that -the disease and blight which have ravaged nearly all the groves in the -archipelago will soon attack these. The disease could be kept at bay -by insecticides and combined effort, but it is no use for one grower -to wage war against the pest, if his neighbour calmly allows it to get -ahead in his groves, though the excellence of the oranges makes it -seem as if they deserved more care. If disaster overtakes the banana -trade--and already I heard whispers of grumbling at the absurd price -of land, and rumours of as good land and plenty of water to be had on -the West Coast of Africa, where labour is half the price--possibly -orange-growing may be taken up by men who have learnt their experience -in Florida, and by careful cultivation another golden harvest may be -reaped. - -The ultimate destination of most travellers in this direction is the -Montaña de las Cuatro Puertas (the Mountain of the Four Doors), which -is a most curious and interesting example of a native place of worship. -The Canarios seem to have been especially fond of cave-dwellings, which -are very common in Grand Canary, though they are by no means unknown -in the other islands; and it is no unusual thing to find districts -where a scanty population is troglodytic in habit, living entirely in -cave-dwellings scooped out of the soft sandstone rock. Some families -have quite a good-sized though strange home, and besides rooms with -whitewashed walls are stables for goats or mules. One writer says: “The -hall-mark of gentility in troglodyte circles is the possession _of a -door_. This shows that the family pays house tax, which is not levied -upon those who live the simpler life, and are content with an old sack -hanging across the open doorway.” - -Webb and Berthelot, in their “Histoire Naturelle,” seem to have been -much struck by these cave-dwellings, and the following account appears -in their description of the Ciudad de las Palmas: “The slopes above -the town on the west are pierced by grottoes inhabited by families of -artisans; narrow paths have been made in the face of the cliffs by -which to get to these excavations. After sunset, when the mountain -is in deep shadow, the troglodyte quarter begins to light up, and -all these aerial lights, which shine for a moment and then instantly -disappear, produce the most curious effect.” The “Mountain of the Four -Doors” is of much larger dimensions than any ordinary cave-dwelling, as -the whole mountain appears to have been excavated, and would certainly -have made a very draughty dwelling, as the four entrances which give -the mountain its name are only separated by columns, thus allowing -free entrance to the wind. The sacred hill is said to have been partly -occupied by embalmers of the dead, the mummies being eventually -removed to the burial cave on one side. Another side of the hill was -the residence of the _Faycans_, or priests, who conducted the funeral -ceremony; and there were the consecrated virgins, or _harimaguedas_, -who were here kept in the strictest seclusion for years, employed in -the gruesome occupation of sewing the goat-skins for wrapping up the -mummies. The Canarios appear to have regarded a shelf in the burial -cave running north and south as being the most honourable position, -and on these they placed the bodies of highest rank, judging from the -mummies found on them, as the leather is often richly embroidered, and -the greatest care was taken in embalming the bodies. The inferiors -were laid east and west. Any one who is interested in the study of the -Canary mummies will find much to interest them in the Museum in Las -Palmas, which is said to be richer in remains of aboriginals than any -other museum in the world. Here may be seen rows of mummies in glass -cases, some curious pottery, and the _Pintaderas_, or dyes, which were -used to stamp designs on the skin or leather. - -[Illustration: AN OLD BALCONY] - -In the same museum the sight of the fearsome “devil-fish,” in the -room devoted to local fishes, must, I think, have made many visitors -from Orotava shudder to think of the light-hearted way in which -they had gaily bathed on the Martianez beach--an amusement I often -considered dangerous from the strength of the breakers and the strong -undercurrent; but when added to this I was assured the monster, which -is said to embrace its victims and carry them away under water after -the manner of the octopus, was “not uncommon round the Canaries,” I was -thankful to think I had never indulged in bathing. - - - - -IX - -GRAND CANARY (_continued_) - - -Many of the residents of Las Palmas move to the Monte for the summer, -but even in late spring most people are glad to get away from the town -and the white dust, which by then is lying ankle deep on the roads. -Monte is the only other place which the ordinary traveller will care to -stay in, as the native inns in Grand Canary bear a bad reputation for -discomfort and dirt, and the Monte makes a good centre for expeditions, -besides being an entire change of air and scene. - -The last part of the drive up from the town which is only some six -or seven miles, affords good views of the lie of the land and makes -one realise the immense length of the _barrancos_ in this island. It -appears never to be safe to assert the name of a _barranco_, as it is -not uncommon for one ravine to have four or five different names in the -course of its wanderings towards the sea. The great _barranco_ one -looks down into from the road beyond Tafira is called at this point the -Barranco del Dragonal. - -[Illustration: A BANANA CART] - -A century ago this district was a mere expanse of cinders interspersed -with the usual Canary plants which find a home in the most desolate of -lava beds. Clumps of Euphorbias and its two inseparable companions, the -miniature dragon tree, _Senecio Kleinia_, and the graceful _Plocama -pendula_ broke the monotony of the grey lava. Now the scene has changed -and this once desolate region has been transformed into one of the most -fertile districts of the island. On the terraced slopes vines flourish, -whose grapes produce the best red Canary wine. Footpaths bordered with -flowers lead through these countless acres of vineyards, recalling the -fashion in Teneriffe of the flower borders, _passeios_, which lead -through many of the banana plantations, showing that the owner of the -land still had some soul for gardening and a love of flowers, as he -spared a strip of the precious soil for flowers. Many an alley in early -winter is gay with rows of poinsettias feeding and flourishing on the -water and guano which is given to the crop with a lavish hand, or rows -of scarlet and white geraniums flank rose trees, interspersed here -and there with great clumps of white lilies. The country in late -spring is fragrant and gay from the bushes of Spanish broom (_Spartium -junceum_) which edge the lanes; their yellow blossoms are in charming -contrast to the soft grey-green of the old agaves, which make such -excellent hedges. - -Just behind the Monte lies the great basin of the Caldera. It is best -seen from the Pico de Bandama, a hill 1840 ft., which not only commands -an excellent view of the crater, but of all the country round. The -Gran Caldera de Bandama, a vast complete basin with no outlet, is over -a mile across and 1000 ft. deep, and consequently is one of the most -perfect craters in the world. The walls are formed of rocks and here -and there vivid bits of colouring speak for themselves of its origin, -and round the edge are layers of cinders. It is to be hoped that it -will not some day come to life again and throw up a peak, as the basin -of the Cañadas is supposed to have thrown up the great cone of the Peak -of Teneriffe. It looks peaceable enough to-day, a mule track leading -down into it. At the bottom of the crater vines are cultivated, and a -farmer calmly lives on what was once a boiling cauldron. - -The vines seem to thrive in the volcanic soil, their roots go down -deep in search of damper loam below, and this possibly helps to keep -them free of disease, though in spring the effect of the tender green -shoots with their long twining tendrils is sadly spoilt when, just as -they are coming into flower, the mandate goes forth to dust the growth -with sulphur. The men and women, who for the past weeks have been busy -gathering in the potato crop, are now employed in sulphur dusting. For -two months or more whole families are engaged with the potato harvest; -the rows are either ploughed up with a primeval-looking plough, or hoed -with the broad native hoe, which does duty for spade or fork in this -country, and then the potatoes are collected with great rapidity, even -the smallest member of the family helping, sorted and packed in deal -boxes holding each some 60 or 70 lb., with a layer of palm fibre on the -top, and shipped to England. It is well known that Canary new potatoes -do not command a very good price in the English market, and I often -wondered whether it is not the kind which is at fault. Kidney potatoes, -which are regarded in England as the best for new potatoes, are hardly -ever grown, the Spaniards regarding them with horror and loathing, and -though English seed is imported annually, the result to my mind seemed -unsatisfactory, as I never came across any young potatoes worthy of the -name “new potatoes.” Possibly the soil and climate are unsuited, and -there is a tendency I was told in all varieties to excessive growth, -and no doubt the green peas and broad beans, which are most suited to -English soil, often here grow to mammoth proportions, giving a poor -result as a crop, and it is only experience which proves which are the -varieties best suited to the climate and soil. The peas which are grown -from seed ripened in the island degenerate to tasteless, colourless -specimens, producing tiny pods, with at the outside three peas in them, -and the French beans have the same lack of flavour when grown from -native seed. - -Potatoes and tomatoes are both unfortunately liable to disease, and in -some seasons the whole crop is lost. The same disease appears to affect -both crops. Dr. Morris, when he visited the islands, thought seriously -of the outlook, unless systematic action was taken. He says: “There -is a remedy if carefully applied and the crop superintended, but the -islanders seem to regard the trouble with strange indifference, and go -on the plan of ‘If one crop fails, then plant another.’” - -The volcanic soil appears to suit cultivated garden plants, as well -as vines, bananas and potatoes, and the gardens in the neighbourhood -of Telde are a blaze of colour and have a wonderful wealth of bloom -in May, which is essentially the “flower month” in all the islands. -Earlier in the winter it is true the creepers will have been at their -best, and by now the last trumpet-shaped blooms will have fallen from -that most gorgeous of all creepers, _Bignonia venusta_, and the colour -will have faded from the bougainvilleas, red, purple, or lilac, though -they seem to be in almost perpetual bloom. Allemandas flourish even -at this higher altitude, as does _Thumbergia grandiflora_, another -tropical plant. Though its bunches of grey-blue gloxinia-like blooms -are beautiful enough individually, it is sadly marred by the dead -blossoms which hang on to the bitter end and are singularly ugly -in death, not having the grace to drop and leave the newcomers to -deck the yards of trailing branches, with which the plant will in an -incredibly short time smother a garden wall or take possession of and -eventually kill a neighbouring tree. Roses seem to flourish and bloom -so profusely that the whole bush is covered with blossoms, and a garden -of roses would well repay the little care the plants seem to require. -The Spaniards prefer to prune their roses but once a year, in January, -but by pruning in rotation roses could be had all the year round, and -certainly half the trees should be cut in October, after the plants -have sent up long straggling summer growth, and by January a fresh -crop would be in flower. But the native gardener is nothing if not -obstinate, and if January is the month for pruning according to his -ideas, nothing will make him even make an experiment by cutting a few -trees at a different season, and in this month are cut creepers, trees -and shrubs, utterly regardless as to whether it is the best season or -not. - -In most gardens the trees comprise several different Ficus, the Pride -of India (_Melia Azedarach_), many palms, oranges, mangos and guavas, -lagerstrœmias, pomegranates and daturas, while flower-beds are filled -with carnations, stocks, cinerarias, hollyhocks and longiflorum lilies, -all jostling each other in their struggle for room. The country people -struck me as having a much greater love of flowers here than in -Teneriffe, where a cared-for strip of cottage garden or row of pot -plants is almost a rare sight, and roof gardening is perhaps more the -fashion. Geraniums and other hanging plants tumble over the edge of -the flat roof tops, looking as though they lived on air, as the boxes -or tins they are grown in are out of sight. Here the humblest cottager -grew carnations, fuchsias, begonias, and pelargoniums with loving care -in every old tin box, or saucepan, that he could lay hands on. One -reason that pot plants are scarce is the enormous cost of flower-pots, -which are mostly imported, and often if I wished to buy a plant, the -price was more than doubled if the precious pot was to be included in -the bargain. In May, the month especially consecrated to the Virgin -Mary, all her chapels and way-side shrines are kept adorned with -flowers. In the larger churches the altar and steps are draped with -blue and white, and piled up with great white lilies whose heavy scent -mingling with the incense is almost overpowering, but in the humbler -shrines the offerings are merely the contributions of posies of mixed -flowers, placed there probably by many a woman who is called after Our -Lady. I was always struck by the number of way-side crosses and tiny -shrines in many of which a lamp shines nightly, and yet I cannot say -the people seemed to be either reverent or deeply religious, and I was -never able to obtain an explanation of the crosses one came across in -unexpected places, even in the branches of trees in the garden. At -first I thought they must be votive offerings in memory of an escape -from danger, possibly a child who had fallen from the tree and escaped -unhurt, but the gardener merely said it was _costumbre_, the custom of -the country, and offered no further information. On May 3, the Fiesta -de la Cruz, every cross, however humble, is decked with a garland of -flowers, which often hangs there until the feast comes round again, and -in front of many of the crosses a lamp is lighted on this one night in -the year. - -On holidays and Sundays the women, especially those who are on their -way to Mass, wore their white cashmere mantillas, and I inquired -whether this also had any connection with “Our Lady’s” month of May, -but I was told in old days they were the almost universal head-dress, -a fashion which unfortunately is fast dying out. This appeared to -be the only distinctively local feature of their dress, and the -usual head-dress of the women and children, with bright-coloured -handkerchiefs folded closely round the forehead and knotted in the -nape of the neck, is common to all the islands. When the family is -in mourning even the smallest member of the household wears a black -handkerchief matching its bright black eyes, but the day I fear is fast -approaching when battered straw hats will take their place, not the -jaunty little round hats with black-bound brims, which every country -woman wears to act as a pad for the load she carries on her head. For -generations the women have carried water-pots and baskets which many -an English working man would consider a crushing load, and no one can -fail to admire their splendid carriage and upright bearing, as they -stride along never even steadying their load with one hand. The only -peculiarity of the men’s dress is their blanket cloaks; in some of the -islands they are made of _mantas_ woven from native wool, but as often -as not an imported blanket is used, gathered into a leather or black -velvet collar at the neck. On a chilly evening in a mountain village -every man and boy is closely wrapped in his _manta_, often it must be -owned in an indescribable state of filth. At night they do duty as a -blanket on the bed, and in the day are dragged through dust or mud, but -cleanliness is not regarded in Spanish cottages, where chickens, goats, -and sometimes a pig all seem to share the common living-room. - -[Illustration: AN OLD GATEWAY] - -I fear the few model dwellings which the tourist is invited to inspect -at Atalaya (the Watch Tower) are not true samples of the average -cottage or cave-dwelling. Atalaya was formerly a native stronghold, -and one can quite imagine what formidable resistance the invaders must -have met with from these primitive fortresses. The narrow ledges cut in -the face of the cliffs made the approach to them almost inaccessible -except to the Canarios, who appear to have been as agile as goats, -and from the narrow openings showers of missiles could be hurled at -the attackers. Atalaya at the present time is the home of the pottery -makers. They fashion the local clay into pots with a round stone in -just as primitive a way as did the ancient Canarios. They seem to live -a life apart, and are regarded with suspicion by their neighbours, who -rarely intermarry with them. The whole colony are inveterate beggars, -old and young alike, but as tourists invade their domain in order -to say they have seen “the most perfect collection of troglodyte -dwellings in the Archipelago,” and request them to mould pots for their -edification, it is perhaps not surprising that they expect some reward. - - - - -X - -GRAND CANARY (_continued_) - - -Those who do not mind a long day and really early start can see a good -deal of the country and make some very beautiful expeditions without -facing the terrors of the native inn. When even our guide-book--and -the writer of a guide-book is surely bound to make the best of -things--warns the traveller that the “accommodation is poor,” or that -“arrangements can be made to secure beds,” every one knows what to -expect. So a long day, however tiring, is preferable, if it is possible -to return the same night. - -A drive of two hours leads to San Mateo, where good accommodation would -be a great boon, as it is a great centre for expeditions, besides being -beautifully situated near chestnut and pine woods. A rough mule track -leads in something under three hours to the Cruz de Tejeda, which is -about the finest excursion in the island. Good walkers will probably -prefer to trust their own legs rather than the mule’s; but it is a -stiff climb, as the starting-point, San Mateo, is only some 2600 ft. -above the sea, while the Cruz is 5740 ft. Without descending into the -deep Barranco which leads down to Tejeda itself, in clear weather -the view is magnificent. That most curious isolated rock, the Roque -Nublo, stands like a great pillar or obelisk, pointing straight into -the heavens, rising 370 ft. above all its surroundings, and more than -6000 ft. above sea-level, and is often clearly visible from Teneriffe. -The great valley of Tejeda lies stretched before the traveller, who -is surely well rewarded for his climb by the splendid panorama. Deep -precipitous ravines full of blue shadows lie in vast succession in -front, and to the right the cultivated patches in the valley are a -bright emerald green from the young corn, and over the deep blue sea -beyond, towers the great Peak of Teneriffe, looking most majestic and -awe-inspiring rising above the chain of high mountains which are veiled -in a light, mysterious mist. Never, perhaps, is the great height of the -mountain so well realised, as it stands crowning a picture which our -guide-book tells us is “never to be forgotten, and second to none in -Switzerland or the Alps.” - -[Illustration: THE CANARY PINE] - -Another favourite expedition for the energetic is to the Cumbres, -particularly for those who are bent on reaching the highest land in the -island. The Pico de los Pechos is the highest point (6400 ft.), but the -Montaña de la Cruz Santa, on the left, is generally chosen, as here -parties of walkers and riders can meet, under the shadow of the Holy -Cross, where, on the festivals of St. Peter and St. John, a religious -_fiesta_ is held. Before the wholesale deforestation took place, this -district must certainly have been much more beautiful; now it is a -silent, shadowless world, a desolate region of stony ground, over which -run great _barrancos_ looking like deep rents in the mountain sides. -Probably no other island has suffered more cruelly from the axe of the -charcoal-burner, and in the neighbourhood of Las Palmas everything has -been cut which could be converted into charcoal, and nowadays that -necessary article of life to the Spaniard has to be imported. - -One of the most beautiful of all their native forests, the forest of -Doramas, is hardly worthy of its name at the present time; scattered -trees on the mountain side are all that remains of one of the most -beautiful of primeval forests, which was so celebrated in the days of -the Canarios. Even in 1839, when Barker Webb and Berthelot visited the -forest, they lamented over the destruction of the trees, and whole -stretches of country which had formerly been pine and laurel woods were -only covered with native heath. The prince Doramas, who is said to -have lived in a grotto in the picturesque neighbourhood of Moya, gave -his name to the mountain and forest, and these travellers visited his -cave, which was still regarded with great veneration on account of the -tales of the heroic and brave deeds and almost superhuman strength of -the prince, which had been handed down from generation to generation. -They found the door, or rather entrance, to the grotto draped with -garlands of _Hibalbera_ (_Ruscus androgynus_) and the scarlet-flowered -_Bicacaro_ of the Guanches (_Canarina campanulata_), as the spot was -then solitary and deserted. Some years before the Spanish traveller -Viera had been charmed by the beauty of the forest, and a translation -of passages from his work on the “General History of the Canary -Islands” will show what a treasure the Spaniards have lost in allowing -the destruction of the woods. - -“Nature,” he says, “is here seen in all her simplicity, nowhere is she -to be found in a more gay or laughing mood; the forest of Doramas is -one of the most beautiful of the world’s creations from the variety of -its immense straight trees, always green and scattering on all sides -the wealth of their foliage. The sun has never penetrated through -their dense branches, the ivy has never detached itself from their old -trunks; a hundred streams of crystal water join together in torrents -to water the soil which becomes richer and richer and more productive. -The most beautiful spot of all in the depth of this virgin forest is -called Madres de Moya; the singing of the birds is enchanting, and in -every direction run paths easy of access; one might believe them to be -the work of man, but they are all the more delightful because they are -not. By following one of these paths one comes to the spot called by -the Canarios, the Cathedral, an immense and complete dome of verdure -formed by the meeting of the branches of the magnificent trees. Laurels -raise their great trunks in colonnades, with their branches interlaced -and bent into gigantic arcades, which produce a most marvellous effect. -Advancing under their majestic shadow one discovers at every turn -fresh views, and one’s imagination, carried away by the tales of the -ancients, is filled with poetic impressions. These enchanted regions -are well worthy of the fictions of fables, and in the enthusiasm they -give birth to when wandering in their midst, the Canarios appear to -have lost nothing of their celebrity; these are still the Fortunate -Islands and their shady groves the Elysium of the Greeks, the wandering -place of happy souls.” - -The poet Cayrasco de Figueroa, who was known as the “divin Poête,” and -whose tomb is to be seen in one of the side chapels of the cathedral in -Las Palmas, wrote verses in praise of the forest, which he must have -seen in all its glory in 1581, and some fifty years later the venerable -don Christobal de la Camara, Bishop of Grand Canary, travelled all -through it and wrote of “the mountain of d’Oramas as one of the marvels -of Spain: the different trees growing to such a height that it is -impossible to see their summit: the hand of God only could have planted -them, isolated among precipices and in the midst of masses of rock. -The forest is traversed by streams of water and so dense are its woods, -that even in the days of greatest heat the sun can never pierce them. -All I had been told beforehand of its beauties appeared fabulous, but -when I had visited it myself I was convinced that I had not been told -enough.” - -Between 1820 and 1830 the forest seems to have suffered much. At the -former date some part of the woods remained in all their pristine -beauty on the Moya side and the great Til (_Laurus fœtens_) trees round -Las Madres were still standing, but ten years later, when Barker Webb -and his companion visited this spot again, these splendid trees were -shorn of their finest branches and the devastation of the woods had -begun. - -Long before this date the mountain appears to have become an apple of -discord. Some influential landed proprietors demanded the division of -the forest, the _communes_ interfered, and eventually the question -became a political one. Just as a settlement was arrived at the party -in power fell and General Morales arrived on the scene, having been -granted a large part of the forest by Ferdinand VII. in recognition of -his services, and the deforestation of the district began in earnest, -in spite of local resistance to the royal decree. - -In most of the islands some old pine has been given the name of the -Pino Santo, and protected by a legend of special sanctity, but perhaps -the Pino Santo of Teror was the most venerated of all. The tree, old -historians tell us, was of immense size and grew adjoining the Chapel -of Our Lady; so close, in fact, that one of its branches served as the -foundation of the belfry. The unsteadiness of this strange foundation -not unnaturally hastened the destruction of the little tower, and on -April 3, 1684, the sacred tree, which collapsed from its great age and -weight, threatened to crush the chapel beneath. The sacred image of Our -Lady of the Pine was so named because it was said to have been found -in the branches of the tree. This miraculous discovery was made after -the conquest in 1483. The Canarios had often observed a halo of light -round the tree which they did not even dare approach, but Don Juan de -Frias, bishop and conqueror, more courageous than the rest, climbed -into the branches of the tree and brought down a statue of the Virgin. -He is said to have found the image among thick branches and between -two dragon trees, nine feet high, which were growing out of a hollow -in the pine branches. The figure at once received the name of Nuestro -Señora del Pino, the church, which has been built on the site of the -old chapel, being dedicated to her. The spot on which stood the sacred -tree is now marked with a cross, and a pine tree close by is said to -be a descendant of the Pino Santo. Nor is this all the legend about -this wonderful tree. A spring of healing water issued from beneath it, -and here the faithful came to bathe and be healed of their ills. An -avaricious priest thinking he would collect fees or alms from those -who came to visit the spring, caused it to be enclosed by masonry and -a door, which he kept locked, upon which the sacred spring dried up, -and his schemes were defeated. Below the village to this day are some -mineral springs dedicated to Our Lady of Lourdes. Who knows, possibly -this is the same sacred spring which has reappeared to benefit the -sick. - - - - -XI - -LA PALMA - - -Every one agrees that La Palma is almost the most beautiful of the -group of seven Fortunate Isles, so it is all the more deeply to be -deplored that there is not better communication between the little -port of Santa Cruz de la Palma and Teneriffe or Grand Canary. At rare -intervals during the winter, especially towards sunset, the island had -emerged from the clouds in which it is usually enveloped and lain dark -purple against a golden sunset sky, an omen which we had learnt to -dread in Orotava, finding there was great truth in the saying of the -country people, “When La Palma is to be seen, rain will come before two -days,” and sure enough the storm always came. - -The little town of Santa Cruz, or La Ciudad as it is locally called, as -if it was the only town in the world, is most picturesquely situated -on steep slopes, very much resembling the situation of Funchal in -Madeira on a smaller scale. Possibly in days to come La Palma may -have a great future before it as a tourist resort, when the new mole -fulfils the hopes of natives and their port becomes a coaling-station -for larger steamers. An hotel among the pine woods would certainly be -very attractive, especially in spring, when the whole island is afoam -with fruit blossom. At present a bad _fonda_ is the only accommodation -in Santa Cruz, and most people curtail their stay in consequence, and -hurry away at the end of three days during which time the steamer -has been at the neighbouring islands of Hierro and Gomera, or else -they ride over to Los Llanos, spurred by the report of a very fairly -comfortable inn. The island affords almost endless expeditions, -especially to good walkers, as the tracks are bad and slippery for -mules. Near Santa Cruz the Barranco de la Madera is the home of the -Virgin de las Nieves, a very ancient and much venerated image of the -Virgin, to whom the church is dedicated. Every five years this sacred -figure is carried down to the sea in solemn procession, and the stone -ship at the mouth of the great _barranco_, which is called after Our -Lady of the Snows, is rigged and decked in gala fashion with bunting. -Not only from all parts of the island, but many devout Spaniards -congregate to do honour to her, and a great _fiesta_ takes place, which -must be a curious and most interesting ceremony. - -The Barranco del Rio is the most beautiful of all the walks in the -neighbourhood. Like its namesake near Guimar in Teneriffe, it is a -happy hunting-ground for the botanist, and those who have a steady -head and do not mind narrow paths and precipices can wander far along -through the gorge, where the beautiful rocks are clad with innumerable -ferns and native plants. - -In ancient days the Guanches gave the island the name of Benahoave, -meaning “my country,” which sounds as though they were so proud of -the island when they took possession of it, probably sailing across -from Teneriffe, that they meant to stick to it. The present name first -appears on the old Medici map in Florence (1351), which is said to be -the oldest chart of these waters. The name is supposed to have been -given to the island by an expedition composed of Florentines, Genoese -and Majorcans who had visited the Canaries some ten years before. It -was probably the last-named who christened the island La Palma, after -the capital of Majorca, so at the time of the conquest, though the -Spaniards introduced many changes in the way of laws, religion and -agriculture, they did not change the European name by which the island -had become known. - -Webb and Berthelot when they visited the island in 1837 were loud in -praise of the wealth and luxury of the vegetation, which in their -opinion surpassed that of any other of the Canary group. - -The island centres in the vast abyss of the Gran Caldera, which -centuries ago was the boiling cauldron of a great crater. The islanders -are immensely proud of their old crater, and always assert that the -Peak of Teneriffe was merely thrown up by _their_ volcano in one of its -most terrific upheavals. As in the other islands at a certain elevation -the region of laurels and other evergreen trees, in whose shade ferns -flourish, is succeeded by the mammoth heaths, and higher still come -the beautiful pine woods with their slippery carpet of pine needles on -which both man and beast find a difficulty in keeping a footing. On -the more arid slopes of parts of the Cumbre the scattered vegetation -is more suggestive of Alpine regions. The above-mentioned learned -travellers attribute the presence of the immense number of apparently -wild almond and other fruit trees to their having sown themselves -from the original trees introduced to the island by the conquerors, -who, determined to make the most of the climate and soil, set about -to change the face of the land. The natural vegetation receded to the -higher regions as the lower parts became more and more cultivated -with almonds, vines, oranges, lemons and bananas, which up to then -had been unknown in the island. In some districts woods of chestnut -trees, which were also introduced, have taken the place of the virgin -forest. To these two travellers also belongs the honour and glory of -having discovered the Echium peculiar to the Island, and they at once -gave it its local name, _Echium pininana_, though _nana_ does not seem -very appropriate to it, as it is anything but dwarf, growing to a -height of 15 ft. with a dense spike of deep blue flowers. Several of -the lovely Canary brooms appear to be indigenous to the island, and -Professor Engler of Berlin, who visited La Palma last year, found the -yellow-flowered _Cytisus stenopetalus_ in two varieties, _palmensis_ -and _sericeus_, besides the graceful drooping and sweet-scented white -_Cytisus filipes_ and _Retama rhodorrhizoides_, and the _Cytisus -proliferus_ common to most of the islands. - -Most people prefer to visit the great crater from Los Llanos, an -expedition occupying three days. The journey across the Cumbres _viâ_ -El Paso to Los Llanos is one of extreme beauty, as the vegetation -begins very soon after leaving Santa Cruz, and at a height of only -1000 ft. the chestnut, laurel, and heath woods begin. The path winds -through these enchanting woods until at a higher elevation the giant -heaths alone are left. From the top of the Cumbre Nueva there is a -magnificent view over the whole island, Santa Cruz nestling among the -hills by the shore and in the far distance lie Teneriffe and Gomera. To -the south is the old Cumbre, called Vieja in contradistinction to its -newer neighbour; from one of its heights a stream of lava is said to -have descended in 1585, which is probably the last occasion on which -the volcano showed any activity. The dense vegetation covering some of -the streams of lava speaks for itself of their great age, as it is said -that not a particle of vegetation appears on lava until it has had four -centuries in which to grow cold, and then the first sign of returning -life is a peculiar lichen which appears on the heaps of lava. The great -mountain of Timé, whose black and forbidding precipice overhangs the -Barranco de las Augustias, makes many a traveller wonder who first had -the courage to make a path, steep and narrow though it is, down the -face of the rock. Possibly the goatherds, _pastors_, first learnt the -lie of the land, swinging themselves on their _lanzas_ or long spiked -poles from rock to rock with surprising agility, and then others not -trained to this strange mode of progression made the paved track. - -On the western slopes the pine woods soon commence, the splendid trees -increasing in size until the sacred Pino de la Virgen is reached--a -giant whose trunk measures some 25 ft. round. Hardly a traveller passes -the shrine at its foot without dropping a coin, however humble, into -the money-box which is kept for its support. How long the pine has -been regarded as a holy tree, or for how many generations the lamp -has been lighted nightly, I know not; but in 1830 Berthelot wrote: -“This beautiful tree, said to be a contemporary of the Conquest, -shows no sign of age; a little statue of the Virgin has been placed -in the first fork of its branches; every evening the woodcutters of -the neighbourhood come silently and reverently to light the little -lamp which hangs above the sacred image. At dusk, if one passes near -the _Pino Santo_, this lamp, which shines alone in the depth of -the forest, casting shadows on the leafy bower which protects this -mysterious shrine, inspires one with a sense of deep feeling and dread. -The presence of this tree, which has been made sacred and endowed -with mysterious powers, caused me to feel for it the very greatest -veneration.” - -Though the little village of El Paso is situated somewhat nearer to -the Gran Caldera, few travellers stop there, as it does not boast -of an inn, however humble, and to be taken as a “paying guest” does -not appeal to many people. It is better to push on to Los Llanos, a -pleasant village reached by a road from Tazaconte, which runs through -orange groves, where in spring the air is heavy and sickly with the -scent of the blossom, and then passing through almond groves and -orchards of every kind of fruit tree, so to the very last the beauty of -road is kept up, and the traveller is well repaid. - -Though the expedition to the Gran Caldera is always described as a -tiring one, the natives would feel deeply hurt if any visitor to their -island did not go to see their mighty crater. It is indeed mighty--a -vast basin, measuring in places four to five miles across, and some -6500 to 7000 ft. deep; its very size makes it difficult to realise -that it is a crater, and it might easily be regarded as merely a deep -hollow among the mountains. Though its walls are great bare grey -crags, the pine woods which clothe the lower slopes of the hills which -rise from the bottom of the crater, in places the bottom itself being -clothed with trees, make it all the less like an ordinary crater. -Great deep ravines tear the base, and these in their turn have become -pine woods, carpeted with soft and slippery pine needles which for -centuries possibly have lain undisturbed. The Caldera is recommended as -a camping-ground, as water, which in Palma is scarce, is to be found; -in fact, innocent-looking dry stony beds may through rainy weather on -the higher land suddenly become a roaring stream. Some people might -think it too inaccessible a spot, but the solitude, and the sound of -the wind whispering among the pines, would appeal to many. That the -depth of the crater has altered since a bygone age is evident, as caves -of the Haouarythes, the aboriginal inhabitants of La Palma, are now -absolutely inaccessible; nothing but a bird could reach the entrance -to them. The action of water is said to account for this; possibly -underground streams broke loose after a plutonic effort and upheaval of -the volcano, and the upper crust subsided. - -Peasants are still to be seen wearing the peculiar hood or _montera_ -made of dark brown woollen cloth lined with red flannel, in shape like -a sou’wester, turned up in front fitting closely to the head, the flap -hanging behind lined with red, or sometimes if the flap is not required -as a protection against the weather the corners are buttoned over the -peak in front. The _mantas_, blanket cloaks, are all made of wool woven -in the island. These are both articles of men’s dress. The women’s -caps have no flaps, and are very ugly, and the picturesque dress which -survived for a time in Breña Baja is now extinct altogether, as are -also the tiny round hats made from the pith of the palm. - - - - -XII - -GOMERA - - -Gomera is seldom visited by tourists, but a flying visit can be paid -to it during the stay of the inter-insular boat which plies between -the islands. In summer its higher land and woods would be an ideal -camping-ground for a traveller with tents, and the climate is said to -be very good. The soil appears to be extremely rich and well repays the -cultivator, but the Cumbres are still clad with beautiful woods, which -up to now have escaped from the destructive charcoal-burners. The soil -of the island is volcanic, but it is one of the few of the group which -cannot boast of an old crater, and the highest point is only about 4400 -ft. A remarkable feature of the vegetation is the entire absence of -pines; there are none at the present time, and old historians always -comment on their absence. This in itself showed ancient writers the -approximate height of the island, as nowhere is the native _Pinus -canariensis_ found in its natural conditions under 4000 ft. above -sea level, while in the region below that altitude _Erica arborea_ -flourishes. In Gomera the heaths attain larger dimensions than in any -other island, and grow into real trees, and on the beautiful expedition -from San Sebastian, the port, to Valle Hermoso (the Beautiful Valley), -which appears well to deserve its name, the traveller passes through -a succession of well-watered and wooded country and lovely forest -scenery, said to be unsurpassed in the Canaries. San Sebastian was -formerly of more importance than it is now, as in old days its -naturally sheltered harbour was much valued by navigators. - -It was probably for this reason that it became the favourite anchorage -of Christopher Columbus on his voyages of discovery. He first called -at Puerto de la Luz, in Grand Canary, in order to repair the damage -done to one of his fleet, but leaving his lieutenant in charge of the -damaged ship, Columbus himself sailed to Gomera on August 12, 1492. -On this occasion he stayed for eleven days, returning to Grand Canary -to pick up La Pinta, but he again called at Gomera on September 1. -He appears to have spent a week in storing provisions, and several -sailors from Gomera joined his expedition. On his second voyage he -returned to his old anchorage, this time again picking up sailors, and -as he had a much larger fleet of vessels under his command, besides -plants and seeds he embarked cows, sheep, goats, pigs and chickens, -all of which he wished to introduce to the country he had already -discovered, a fact which has been of great interest to zoologists who -had been puzzled to determine the true race of many animals found in -the West Indies. Twice again he visited Gomera, so there is no doubt it -was his favourite port of call. Some old historians assert that for a -time he lived in Gomera. At San Sebastian an old house is still pointed -out as having belonged to him. After his marriage in Lisbon with a -daughter of the Portuguese navigator Perestrello, for some years little -seems to be known of the admiral’s doings. The inhabitants of Madeira -claim that he lived in a house in Funchal, while other writers affirm -that he lived in Gomera and speak of his return to “his old domicile” -after one of his voyages. - -[Illustration: SAN SEBASTIAN] - -In old days the inhabitants were called Ghomerythes, and after the -conquest of the island by the Spaniards, which did not prove a -difficult matter, as though the islanders were a brave little band they -knew little or nothing of the art of warfare, the conquerors enlisted -the services of the natives to help them in attacking the other -islands. The island was not left entirely undisturbed even after the -conquest, as Sir Francis Drake made several attempts to take the island -in 1585, and five years later a Dutch fleet under Vanderdoes invaded -the town. On the walls of the quaint old church in San Sebastian are -paintings showing the repulse of the Dutch fleet in the harbour in -1599. The Moors in the seventeenth century attacked and burnt a great -part of the town. - -A peculiarity of the island is the strange whistling language, which -probably in ancient times was in universal practice, but is now more -or less confined to one district, the neighbourhood of the Montaña de -Chipude, being very rarely used by the natives in San Sebastian, who -have most of them lost the art. The best whistlers can make themselves -heard for three or four miles, and in the whistling district all -messages are sent in this way, which no doubt is of the greatest -convenience where telegrams are unknown and deep _barrancos_ separate -one village from another. The greatest adepts in the art do not use -their fingers at all, and by mere intonations and variations of two -or three notes a sufficiently elaborate language has been invented to -enable a conversation to be carried on. The following may possibly -be a traveller’s tale, but it shows the use which can be made of the -language: “A landed proprietor from San Sebastian with farms in the -south took lessons secretly. The next time he visited his tenants he -heard his approach heralded from hill to hill, instructions being -given to hide a cow here or a pig there, and so on, in order that he -should not claim his _medias_ or share of the same.” The writer of -the above himself heard the following short message given: “There is -a _caballero_ here who wants a letter taken to San Sebastian. Tell -Fulano to take this place on his way and fetch it.” This was at once -understood and acted upon. If any doubt is held as to the accuracy -of the message, the answer comes to repeat, and when understood the -receiver answers back, “Aye, aye.” It is to be hoped that the practice -will not entirely die out, as I believe the whistling language of -Gomera is unique. - - - - -XIII - -FUERTEVENTURA, LANZAROTE AND HIERRO - - -The three islands of Fuerteventura, Lanzarote, and Hierro, complete the -group of seven Fortunate Isles, as the little satellites of Graciosa, -Alegranza, Montaña Clara, are hardly more than large rocks, uninhabited -and only visited occasionally by fishermen. - -Fuerteventura, though by no means a very small island, being over 60 -miles long and about 18 miles broad, has remained in a primitive and -unexploited condition, because in spite of the fertility of the soil, -which is said to be remarkable, the scarcity of water is great and the -inhabitants are entirely dependent on the rainfall. In a good year, -namely a rainy year, the island grows a very good wheat crop, almost -larger than that of any other island, but the absence of fresh-water -springs, or the apathy of the natives in not making use of what there -are, has prevented any agricultural development. The island has no pine -forest and trees are scarce: great parts of it are barren, sandy and -rocky plains, and the little vegetation there is, is said to resemble -that which is found in certain parts of the northern deserts of Africa. -Its highest point is only about 2700 ft. and is called Orejas de Asno -(Ass’s Ears), situated in the sandy peninsula at the extreme south of -the island. At the present time travellers are warned that drinking -water is scarce, nasty, and frequently has to be paid for. Whether -the island is even drier than it was at the beginning of last century -I know not, but Berthelot and his companion remark that there were -many good springs, which even in July, the driest month, were cool and -clear, but were allowed to waste themselves, no trouble being taken to -collect the water either for irrigation or domestic use. - -Both Fuerteventura and the neighbouring island of Lanzarote are given a -distinctly African appearance by the extensive use of camels as beasts -of locomotion and burden, donkeys even being comparatively uncommon and -difficult to procure so communication between the villages is almost -entirely carried on by means of camels. - -Lanzarote received its name from a corruption of the Christian name of -a Genoese, Captain Lancelot de Malvoisel, and in the old Medici map the -island is marked with the Genoese coat-of-arms to show that it belonged -to that town. - -Though not as near the African coast as Fuerteventura, which is only -about 60 miles from Cape Juby, the island is very African in aspect in -places, the camels, the vast stretches of blown sand and the absence of -vegetation being suggestive of the Sahara. - -The few springs in the north of the island are utilised for growing -crops of wheat and tomatoes, but are not of sufficient size to allow -of any extensive plan of irrigation, and in the south the inhabitants -depend entirely on rain water. - -Lanzarote is almost the most volcanic of all the islands, and between -1730 and 1737 no fewer than twenty-five new craters opened, so it is -not to be wondered at that the inhabitants were much alarmed when -fresh disturbances were felt in the summer of 1824. In a series of -letters written by Don Augustin Cabrera, an inhabitant of the island -at the time, an excellent account is given of the eruptions. A slight -earthquake preceded the sudden appearance of a new crater in the early -morning of July 1, 1824, in the neighbourhood of Tao, in the centre -of a plain. The crater, which at first had the appearance of a great -crevasse, emitted showers of sand and red hot stones, and did great -damage to the surrounding country, destroying some most valuable -reservoirs, and it was even feared that Tiagua, though a long distance -away, would be destroyed, as a _montañeta_ in the district began to -smoke. On September 16, the writer says that after eighteen hours -the crater had ceased its shower of hot ashes, but a dense column of -smoke spouted forth, and the rumbling could be heard for miles round, -and from the _montañeta_, which at first had only smoked, came a -torrent of boiling water. “Yesterday,” says the writer, “after there -had been comparative quiet for some time, a loud noise was heard, and -the boiling water spouted forth in torrents. At times there is dense -smoke, which clears away, and then comes the water again.” Writing in -October he gives a most graphic and alarming account of an eruption -on September 29, when the volcano burst through the lava deposit of -1730, and flaming torrents flowed down to the sea. A noise like loud -thunder had continued unceasingly, and prevented the inhabitants from -sleeping, even many miles away. No wonder they dreaded a repetition of -the disasters of 1730-37, as in two months two new craters had opened. -On October 18 another letter says: “There is no doubt a furnace is -under our feet. For twelve days the volcano had appeared dead, though -frequent shocks of earthquake warned us such was not the case, and -true enough yesterday the volcano burst through a bed of lava in the -centre of a great plain, sending up into the air a column of boiling -water 150 ft. high.” It is also said that for several days the heat was -suffocating, and sailors could scarcely see the island because of the -dense mist. - -The island has been a source of the deepest interest to geologists, -and both M. Buch and Webb and Berthelot visited it between 1820-38, -spending many weeks in the island. Few travellers seem to find their -way there now, as there is no port and no mole passengers have to be -carried ashore. - -The little island of Graciosa, only five miles long and a mile broad, -separated from Lanzarote by the narrow strait of El Rio, is a broad -stretch of sand covered with shells, but the three principal cones in -the island are said to be volcanic, and show the origin of the island. -After autumn rains, the sand is covered with herbaceous plants, and in -old days the inhabitants of the north of Lanzarote used to transport -their cattle to feed there. - -Montaña Clara, hardly more than a rock some 300 ft. high, lies to the -north of Graciosa, and Allegranza, the “Joy” of Bethencourt, as it was -the first soil on which he set foot, is to the north again, and is -really the first island of the Canary Archipelago, so it consequently -boasts of a lighthouse. The possession of the island in old days was -a matter of much dispute, as the feathers of a bird (_Larus Marinus_) -were very valuable, and nearly as profitable as the down of the eider; -also puffins, which existed here in vast numbers, were salted and sold, -and now a small amount of fish-curing is done on the island at certain -seasons. The greater part of the island is taken up by a crater of -considerable extent, so even this tiny island is not without its Gran -Caldera. - -[Illustration: A SPANISH GARDEN] - -Hierro, the Isle of Iron, is to the extreme south-west of the -Canary Archipelago, and for several centuries was probably regarded -by ancient navigators as the most western point in the world--beyond -lay the unknown. The name is a corruption by the Spaniards of the word -_heres_, which in the language of the original Ben-bachirs, whose name -was in its turn changed to Bembachos, meant a small reservoir or tank -for collecting rain water. As the island is almost entirely dependent -on the rainfall these tanks were of the greatest value to the natives, -and in old records it is stated that a _here_ was much more valued -in a marriage settlement than land. The theory that the island was -called _hierro_, meaning iron, because of the presence of the metal -in the island is not much regarded, as we are especially told by old -historians that when Bethencourt attacked the island the natives -were armed with lances which had _not_ iron heads, and the historian -adds, the only iron these natives knew was from the chains of their -oppressors, who appear to have treated them with great cruelty. - -The excessive moisture of the air and the presence of a fair amount -of wooded country which attracts the moisture, enables the flocks of -sheep to live on the natural vegetation. The only water they get is -from eating leaves of plants when saturated with dew, their principal -fodder being the leaves and even roots of asphodel, also mulberry and -fig leaves. Hierro is especially celebrated for its figs, which are the -best grown in any of the islands, and extremely free fruiting. One tree -alone may bear 400 lb. of fruit. - -The best-known springs are those of Los Llanillos, which furnishes -the best drinking water in the islands, being said to be always clear -and cold, and the spring of Sabinosa. The latter is warm, smells of -sulphur, and has a bitter taste and medicinal properties. One of -Bethencourt’s chaplains mentions that it has a great merit: “When you -have eaten till you can eat no more, you then drink a glass of this -water, and after an hour all the meat is digested, and you feel just as -hungry as you did before you began, and can begin all over again!” - -There is no sea-port village, the landing-place consisting merely -of a small cove sheltered by masses of fallen rock, and the little -capital of Valverde lies two hours distant on foot. As practically no -accommodation is to be relied on, those who are bent on exploring -the island are recommended to provide themselves with a tent. The -vegetation is said to be of great interest to botanists, and they -appear to be the only travellers who ever visit the island. - - - - -XIV - -HISTORICAL SKETCH - - -Few people, until they are proposing to pay a visit to the “Fortunate -Islands,” a name by which the group of seven Canary Islands seems to -have been known since very early days, ever trouble themselves to learn -anything of their history. Beyond the fact that they belong to Spain, -a piece of information probably surviving from their school-room days, -they have never troubled their heads about them, and I have known a -look of surprise come over the face of an Englishwoman on hearing a -Spaniard mention a fact which probably dated “from before the Conquest, -quite five centuries ago,” entirely forgetting that “the Conquest” -could mean anything but the English conquest, instead of the conquest -of the Canary Islands by the Spaniards at the latter end of the -fifteenth century. - -Possibly the reason that so few authentic records remain of their -ancient history is that though the outlying islands of the group are -only some 80 or 100 miles from the African coast, still they were on -the extreme limit of the ancient world. The various theories that they -were really the home of the Hesperides, or the garden of Atlas, King -of Mauretania, where the golden apple was guarded by the dragon, the -Peak being the Mount Atlas of mythology, or again that they were merely -the remains of the sunken continent of Atlantis, can never really -be settled, but it seems almost certain that they were not entirely -unknown to the ancients. The fact that Homer mentions an island “beyond -the Pillars of Hercules,” as the Straits of Gibraltar were called, has -caused the adoption of the Pillars of Hercules, with a small island in -the distance surmounted with _Oce ano_, as one of the coats-of-arms of -the Islands, though the more correct one appears to be the two large -dogs (because of the two native dogs which were taken back to King -Juba about 50 B.C., when he sent ships from Mauretania to inspect -Canaria) supporting a shield on which is depicted the seven islands. -Herodotus in his description of the countries beyond Libya says that, -“the world ends where the sea is no longer navigable, in that place -where are the gardens of the Hesperides, where Atlas supports the sky -on a mountain as conical as a cylinder.” Hesiod says that “Jupiter sent -dead heroes to the end of the world, to the Fortunate Islands, which -are in the middle of the ocean.” There is no doubt that the Romans, on -re-discovering the Islands, christened them _Insulæ Fortunatæ_, which -name has clung to them ever since. - -Pliny, in writing about the islands, quotes the statements of Juba, who -said the islands were placed at the extreme limit of the world, and -were perpetually clothed with fire. - -It is unfortunate that the Spaniards, when they conquered the islands, -took no trouble to preserve any of their ancient records, and as the -natives could not write, any history which might have been handed -down from generation to generation was entirely lost. For this reason -very little is known for certain as to what happened to the islands -in the Middle Ages, though they appear to be mentioned by an Arabian -geographer in the early part of the twelfth century, who writes of “the -island of the two magician brothers, Cheram and Clerham, from which, -in clear weather, smoke could be seen issuing from the African coast.” -Various European countries, having heard tales of islands beyond the -seas, appear to have made efforts to conquer them. The fate of the -Genoese expedition in A.D. 1291 is not known, and though -the French are said to have “discovered” them in 1330, it was the -Portuguese who took advantage of this discovery, and a few years later -sent an expedition to conquer them. They met with no success, and were -repulsed by the inhabitants of Gomera, and though they made yet another -attempt after a few years, it appears to have been without result. - -No doubt the comparative peace which reigned in the islands for so long -was owing to the fact that Europe was too much occupied with civil wars -and crusades, to explore and conquer far-off lands, but during the -fourteenth century a French nobleman of Spanish extraction was made -“King of the Fortunate Islands” by the Pope, and told to Christianise -them in the best way he could. Nothing much seems to have come of these -instructions, though some missionaries were no doubt sent to Grand -Canary. - -The conquest of the islands seems to have occupied the Spaniards for -nearly a century, as in 1402 we read of Jean de Bethencourt (a name -still common in the islands), who fitted out a ship for the purpose of -conquering them and settling there. Lanzarote was peaceably occupied, -as its fighting population was small, but in the neighbouring island -of Fuerteventura he was repulsed. Henry King of Castille provided -reinforcements, and, on condition that the Archipelago should be -annexed in his name, Bethencourt was to be made “Lord of the Isles” -of four of the group. The four smaller islands were soon brought -under subjection--Fuerteventura, Lanzarote, Gomera, and Hierro; in -fact, in some of the islands the newcomers were welcomed. The three -larger islands--Canary, Teneriffe, and La Palma--proved a more serious -undertaking, and the invaders being stoutly resisted and lacking in -forces, their conquest was for a time abandoned, and Bethencourt did -not live to see them subjugated. His nephew sold his rights to the -Portuguese, which complicated matters. It was not until 1464 that any -determined attack was again made, though Spanish troops had made an -unsuccessful attempt to conquer La Palma some ten years previously. - -The Lord of Gomera, Diego de Herrera, made most determined attacks -in 1464, beginning unsuccessfully in Canary; but in the same year he -again collected his forces and attacked Teneriffe, landing at Santa -Cruz. Don Diego, having been driven into a corner by the Canarios, sent -his son-in-law, Diego da Silva, to make a counter-attack. He fared no -better, and escape being cut off, offered to surrender, but quarter -was denied. By a stratagem a Canario leader was seized as a hostage, -and Silva demanded free passage to his ship, which was granted. Silva -had misgivings as to the sincerity of the Canarios, and apparently was -so glad to escape with his life, that when he arrived at his ship he -and all his men voluntarily gave up their arms, and vowed never again -to fight the Canarios--a vow which Silva, at any rate, kept, in spite -of the indignation of Diego. Some of the men broke their promise, and -joined Diego’s attacking forces again; and on being taken prisoners -by the natives, instead of being put to death were condemned to spend -their lives in brushing away flies, as execution was too high an honour -for such base creatures. - -Some years after, the “fly-flappers” were set at liberty, as Diego -succeeded in making a treaty with the Canarios; but the island was far -from being conquered, and still offered stout resistance, though the -Spaniards seem by now to have determined not to let such a prize escape -them. Reinforcements came from Spain, and a small body of cavalry, we -are told, terrorised the natives, and though the Portuguese interfered -on behalf of the Canarios, the Spaniards now got a footing in the -island in the year 1478, during the reign of Ferdinand V. of Castille. - -After many unsuccessful attacks from the other islands, it fell -to the lot of Don Alonso de Lugo to complete the work of Jean de -Bethencourt. “De Lugo el Conquistador, and afterwards Governor of the -Province of the Canaries, was a Galician nobleman, who had served with -distinction against the Moors in the conquest of Granada, and had -been presented with the valley of Ageste (Canary) in return for his -services. Whilst there he conceived the capture of Teneriffe and of La -Palma, reconnoitring their coasts and acquainting himself with their -geographical features.” - -Helped by the inhabitants of Gomera, who by this time had become -accustomed to the rule of the conquerors, De Lugo made a desperate -though unsuccessful attempt in 1491 to conquer La Palma, which had -remained in comparative peace for over half a century. It was not till -1492, after months of desperate fighting, that he succeeded in subduing -the island and adding it as a prize to the dominions of Spain. - -A year later he turned his attention to Teneriffe and landed at Añaza -(Santa Cruz). He hoped that quarrels among the Guanches might be in -his favour, but after a considerable number of his men had been cut to -pieces at Matanza (Place of Slaughter) he was forced to retire, and -after a year’s fighting evacuated the island, until reinforcements -were sent to him. Before the close of the same year he returned to the -attack, and desperate resistance was met with in the district of La -Laguna. The Guanches, though successful in keeping the invaders at bay, -were much discouraged by losing several of their leaders, and began to -quarrel among themselves; how long they might still have held out it is -impossible to know, but Providence seems at this moment to have come to -the help of the Spaniards. - -The disease known as _Modorra_, possibly some form of typhus fever, -broke out among the Guanches. Old writings describe this disease as -being most malignant and mysterious, and its effects among the natives -were appalling. The Spaniards remained immune, but I should think it -was not without qualms that they watched the ghastly destruction of -their foes, who appear to have been seized with hopeless melancholia, -lost all wish to live, and wandered about listlessly in troops or laid -down in caves to die. One writer says: “Even at the present day such -retreats are occasionally discovered, little heaps of bones or seated -skeletons marking the spot where the despairing victims sank to rise no -more. It is said that some Spaniards, reconnoitring on the road to La -Laguna, met an old woman seated alone on the Montaña de Taco, who waved -them on, bidding them go in and occupy that charnel-house where none -were left to offer opposition.” - -De Lugo seems to have passed through the district of the _modorra_, -but met with resistance in the valley of Orotava, where the Mencey -of Taoro (the old name of Villa Orotava) advanced to meet him with a -considerable force. Another sanguinary engagement took place at La -Victoria and the invaders again had to retreat. The _modorra_ still -raged, and in 1496 the site of the present villages of Realejo -Alto and Bajo, in the valley of Orotava, was the scene of the final -capitulation of the Guanches, worn out by illness and perpetual -fighting. - -It is not altogether surprising that other countries looked rather -longingly at Spain’s new possession, and both their Portuguese -neighbours and the Moors made one or two feeble attempts to claim them. - -England was not above making several attacks on the Islands. One -unsuccessful expedition commanded by Sir Francis Drake was repulsed -at Las Palmas in 1595, and about sixty years later Sir Robert Blake, -in command of 36 vessels, attacked Santa Cruz, in Teneriffe, but -beyond destroying forts, the shipping in the harbour, and sinking some -treasure galleons, he does not seem to have done much. The English -again disturbed the peace of the islanders in 1743, but Admiral -Nelson’s attack of Santa Cruz in 1797 is the one which is of principal -interest to the English, from the fact probably that it was Nelson’s -one defeat, and here also he lost his arm. To this day Nelson’s two -flags are carefully preserved in glass cases on the walls of the -Iglesia de la Concepcion and are an object of great interest to -many English travellers. The news that a galleon laden with treasure -had arrived in Santa Cruz reached Admiral Jervis during the blockade -of Cadiz, and he at once ordered Vice-Admiral Nelson, in command of -1500 men and 393 guns, to proceed to Teneriffe to secure the coveted -prize. The Spanish authorities were formally demanded to deliver up -the treasure on July 20, 1797, and not unnaturally refused. The town -seems to have been strongly garrisoned, and Nelson, hampered by an -unfavourable wind, made unavailing attempts to land and draw the -soldiers from their forts. Under cover of darkness 700 men succeeded -in getting close to the mole before the enemy discovered them, but -soon a deadly fire was opened upon them, and several of the boats -were sunk. Nelson had no sooner set foot on the jetty than his arm -was shattered by a cannon ball. Incapacitated though he was by pain -and loss of blood, directly he got back alongside his ship his first -thought was for the men who had been left behind, and orders were at -once given for the boat to go back to their assistance. The men who had -succeeded in landing on the mole, encouraged by repulsing the enemy -and spiking their guns, made a desperate attempt to attack the town. -Their opponents were too numerous for this brave little band, and the -guns from the Fort of San Christobal killed the greater number of -their officers and wounded the rest; the survivors retreated in good -order after holding their position on the mole nearly all night. In -consequence of the darkness a party under Captain Trowbridge became -separated and eventually landed at the other side of the town, and took -possession of the old Dominican Monastery. Taking it for granted that -Nelson’s party were in possession of the mole, and advancing to meet -them, Trowbridge demanded the surrender of the fort, only to find that -his enemy and not his friends were the victors. Eventually, seeing -that success was impossible, he asked for permission to leave the town -with all arms, and promised not to attack any part of the Canaries, or -in the event of these conditions being refused he threatened to burn -and sack the town. It is well known in history how courteously (once -the evacuation terms were agreed to) the Spaniards treated their foe. -The wounded were carefully tended, the invaders were allowed to buy -provisions, and presents were interchanged between the greatest of -England’s Admirals and Don Antonio Gutierrez, the Comandante-General of -the Canaries, and it is said that the first letter Nelson wrote with -his left hand was to thank the Spanish general for his care of his -wounded men. After Nelson’s attack the Canaries appear to have remained -in the undisputed possession of Spain, and were made a province of the -Mother Country, Santa Cruz, Teneriffe, being made the capital and seat -of government, somewhat to the annoyance of the other islands. Those -who are really interested in the history of the conquest of the Islands -will find that there are many histories written in Spanish, most of -which are to be seen in the great public library at La Laguna. - - - - -FLOWERS AND GARDENS OF MADEIRA - -_By_ FLORENCE DU CANE - -Containing 16 full-page illustrations in colour by ELLA DU CANE - -Price 6/- net - -(_By post_, 6/6) - -_The Garden_ (on first edition).—“A charming book.... The coloured -illustrations are not only instructive, but gems of their kind.... -Should be in every library.” - - -GARDENS OF SOUTH AFRICA - -_By_ DOROTHEA FAIRBRIDGE - -Containing 16 full-page illustrations in colour by ELIZABETH DRAKE and -others. - -Price 10/6 net - -(_By post_, 11/-) - -_Daily Mail._—“To pick up this book--with its singularly beautiful -pictures in colour--on a drear day of English Autumn is to be -vouchsafed a glimpse into a glowing Horticultural Paradise.” - - -A FEW FLOWERS OF THE ITALIAN RIVIERA - -_By_ HILDA G. DAY - -With 16 full-page illustrations in colour by the author. - -Price 2/6 net - -(_By post_, 2/9) - - -Published by - -A. & C. BLACK, LTD., 4, 5 & 6 Soho Square, London, W.1 - - -HIGHWAY AND HEDGES - -_By_ HERBERT A. MORRAH - -New Edition, with 16 full-page illustrations in colour by B. BENGER - -PRICE 3/6 NET (_by post_, 3/10) - - _Daily Telegraph._—“Mr. Berenger Benger has selected delightful ‘bits’ - for his brush, and has presented them in a manner that makes us wish - again to take to the open road and the footpath way.... A pleasant - addition to our open-air literature.” - - -THE CALL OF THE OPEN - -_A Nature Anthology_ - -_Edited by_ L. H. STOWELL - -With 16 full-page illustrations in colour and decorative end-papers. - -PRICE 3/6 NET (_by post_, 3/10) - -In Imitation Leather, 6/- net (_by post_, 6/11) - - “The Call of the Open” is an anthology of poems about the open air, - the countryside, the seasons, the sea and shore, from the works of - more than a hundred poets, from Milton and Herrick to Masefield and - Drinkwater. - - -FLOWERS IN THE HOME - -_By_ MENIE WATT - -With 8 full-page illustrations from photographs. - -PRICE 2/6 NET (_by post_, 2/10) - - _The Times._—“A useful and charming little book on the choice and - arrangement of flowers for the room and table.” - - -GARDENS IN THEIR SEASONS - -_A Nature Book for Young People_ - -_By_ C. VON WYSS - -Containing 32 illustrations in colour and 32 in black and white. - -PRICE 2/6 NET (_by post_, 2/11) - - - Published by - A. & C. BLACK, LTD., 4, 5 & 6 Soho Square, London, W.1. - - -_SOME OTHER BEAUTIFUL BOOKS ON FLOWERS AND GARDENS_ - - -GARDENS OF ENGLAND - -_By_ E. T. COOK - -_Edited by_ E. T. ELLIS, F.R.H.S. - -New Edition, containing 16 full-page illustrations in colour by -BEATRICE PARSONS - -Price 6/-net - -(_By post_, 6/6) - - _Country Life._—“... Highly deserving of a place in the country - house.... It is instinct with the spirit of the garden, and no one - could turn its leaves, or look at the pictures, without obtaining many - a hint that could be put to practical purpose.” - - -THE GLORY OF THE GARDEN - -_By_ - -M. E. KENNEDY-BELL, F.R.H.S. - -With frontispiece in colour and attractive picture jacket. - -Price 2/6 net - -(_By post_, 2/10) - - _The Scottish Field._—“It will be read with delight by all true garden - lovers.... The book is full of delightful verse and attractively - written prose dealing with gardens and gardening.” - - - Published by - A. & C. BLACK, LTD., 4, 5 & 6 Soho Square, London, W.1. - - -[Illustration: SKETCH MAP OF THE - -CANARY ISLANDS - - Published by A. & C. Black, London, 1911 -] - -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CANARY ISLANDS *** - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the -United States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part -of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm -concept and trademark. Project Gutenberg is a registered trademark, -and may not be used if you charge for an eBook, except by following -the terms of the trademark license, including paying royalties for use -of the Project Gutenberg trademark. If you do not charge anything for -copies of this eBook, complying with the trademark license is very -easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose such as creation -of derivative works, reports, performances and research. Project -Gutenberg eBooks may be modified and printed and given away--you may -do practically ANYTHING in the United States with eBooks not protected -by U.S. copyright law. Redistribution is subject to the trademark -license, especially commercial redistribution. - -START: FULL LICENSE - -THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE -PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK - -To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free -distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work -(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project -Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full -Project Gutenberg-tm License available with this file or online at -www.gutenberg.org/license. - -Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works - -1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to -and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property -(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all -the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or -destroy all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your -possession. If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a -Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound -by the terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the -person or entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph -1.E.8. - -1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be -used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who -agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few -things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works -even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See -paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this -agreement and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works. See paragraph 1.E below. - -1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the -Foundation" or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection -of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual -works in the collection are in the public domain in the United -States. If an individual work is unprotected by copyright law in the -United States and you are located in the United States, we do not -claim a right to prevent you from copying, distributing, performing, -displaying or creating derivative works based on the work as long as -all references to Project Gutenberg are removed. Of course, we hope -that you will support the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting -free access to electronic works by freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm -works in compliance with the terms of this agreement for keeping the -Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with the work. You can easily -comply with the terms of this agreement by keeping this work in the -same format with its attached full Project Gutenberg-tm License when -you share it without charge with others. - -1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern -what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are -in a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, -check the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this -agreement before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, -distributing or creating derivative works based on this work or any -other Project Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no -representations concerning the copyright status of any work in any -country other than the United States. - -1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: - -1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other -immediate access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear -prominently whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work -on which the phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the -phrase "Project Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, -performed, viewed, copied or distributed: - - This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and - most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no - restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it - under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this - eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the - United States, you will have to check the laws of the country where - you are located before using this eBook. - -1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is -derived from texts not protected by U.S. copyright law (does not -contain a notice indicating that it is posted with permission of the -copyright holder), the work can be copied and distributed to anyone in -the United States without paying any fees or charges. If you are -redistributing or providing access to a work with the phrase "Project -Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the work, you must comply -either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 or -obtain permission for the use of the work and the Project Gutenberg-tm -trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. - -1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted -with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution -must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any -additional terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms -will be linked to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works -posted with the permission of the copyright holder found at the -beginning of this work. - -1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm -License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this -work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. - -1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this -electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without -prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with -active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project -Gutenberg-tm License. - -1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, -compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including -any word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access -to or distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format -other than "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official -version posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm website -(www.gutenberg.org), you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense -to the user, provide a copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means -of obtaining a copy upon request, of the work in its original "Plain -Vanilla ASCII" or other form. Any alternate format must include the -full Project Gutenberg-tm License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. - -1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, -performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works -unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. - -1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing -access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works -provided that: - -* You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from - the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method - you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is owed - to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he has - agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the Project - Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments must be paid - within 60 days following each date on which you prepare (or are - legally required to prepare) your periodic tax returns. Royalty - payments should be clearly marked as such and sent to the Project - Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the address specified in - Section 4, "Information about donations to the Project Gutenberg - Literary Archive Foundation." - -* You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies - you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he - does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm - License. You must require such a user to return or destroy all - copies of the works possessed in a physical medium and discontinue - all use of and all access to other copies of Project Gutenberg-tm - works. - -* You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of - any money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the - electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days of - receipt of the work. - -* You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free - distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. - -1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work or group of works on different terms than -are set forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing -from the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the manager of -the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the Foundation as set -forth in Section 3 below. - -1.F. - -1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable -effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread -works not protected by U.S. copyright law in creating the Project -Gutenberg-tm collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may -contain "Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate -or corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other -intellectual property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or -other medium, a computer virus, or computer codes that damage or -cannot be read by your equipment. - -1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right -of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project -Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all -liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal -fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT -LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE -PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE -TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE -LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR -INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH -DAMAGE. - -1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a -defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can -receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a -written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you -received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium -with your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you -with the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in -lieu of a refund. If you received the work electronically, the person -or entity providing it to you may choose to give you a second -opportunity to receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If -the second copy is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing -without further opportunities to fix the problem. - -1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth -in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO -OTHER WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT -LIMITED TO WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. - -1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied -warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of -damages. If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement -violates the law of the state applicable to this agreement, the -agreement shall be interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or -limitation permitted by the applicable state law. The invalidity or -unenforceability of any provision of this agreement shall not void the -remaining provisions. - -1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the -trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone -providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in -accordance with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the -production, promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works, harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, -including legal fees, that arise directly or indirectly from any of -the following which you do or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this -or any Project Gutenberg-tm work, (b) alteration, modification, or -additions or deletions to any Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any -Defect you cause. - -Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm - -Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of -electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of -computers including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It -exists because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations -from people in all walks of life. - -Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the -assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's -goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will -remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure -and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future -generations. To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation and how your efforts and donations can help, see -Sections 3 and 4 and the Foundation information page at -www.gutenberg.org - -Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation - -The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non-profit -501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the -state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal -Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification -number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent permitted by -U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. - -The Foundation's business office is located at 809 North 1500 West, -Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887. Email contact links and up -to date contact information can be found at the Foundation's website -and official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact - -Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg -Literary Archive Foundation - -Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without -widespread public support and donations to carry out its mission of -increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be -freely distributed in machine-readable form accessible by the widest -array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations -($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt -status with the IRS. - -The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating -charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United -States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a -considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up -with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations -where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To SEND -DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any particular -state visit www.gutenberg.org/donate - -While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we -have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition -against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who -approach us with offers to donate. - -International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make -any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from -outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. - -Please check the Project Gutenberg web pages for current donation -methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other -ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. To -donate, please visit: www.gutenberg.org/donate - -Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works - -Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project -Gutenberg-tm concept of a library of electronic works that could be -freely shared with anyone. For forty years, he produced and -distributed Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of -volunteer support. - -Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed -editions, all of which are confirmed as not protected by copyright in -the U.S. unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not -necessarily keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper -edition. - -Most people start at our website which has the main PG search -facility: www.gutenberg.org - -This website includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. diff --git a/old/66355-0.zip b/old/66355-0.zip Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index ca07366..0000000 --- a/old/66355-0.zip +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/66355-h.zip b/old/66355-h.zip Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 4a8705a..0000000 --- a/old/66355-h.zip +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/66355-h/66355-h.htm b/old/66355-h/66355-h.htm deleted file mode 100644 index 70334be..0000000 --- a/old/66355-h/66355-h.htm +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5513 +0,0 @@ -<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" - "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> -<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> - <head> - <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=utf-8" /> - <meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" /> - <title> - The Canary Islands, by Florence du Cane—A Project Gutenberg eBook - </title> - <link rel="coverpage" href="images/i_cover.jpg" /> - <style type="text/css"> - -body { - margin-left: 10%; - margin-right: 10%; -} - - h1,h2,h3 { - text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ - clear: both; -} - -p { - margin-top: .51em; - text-align: justify; - margin-bottom: .49em; -} - -.p80 { - font-size: 0.80em; - text-align: center;} - -.p90 { - font-size: 0.90em; - text-align: center;} - -.space-above4 { - margin-top: 4em;} - -hr.chap1 {width: 65%; - margin-top: 2em; - margin-bottom: 2em; - margin-left: 17.5%; - margin-right: 17.5%; - border:4px double gray;} - -hr.chap {width: 65%; margin-left: 17.5%; margin-right: 17.5%;} - -div.chapter {page-break-before: always;} -h2.nobreak {page-break-before: avoid;} - -table { - margin-left: auto; - margin-right: auto;} - -table.toc { - margin-left: auto; - margin-right: auto; - max-width: 70em; -} - -table.toi { - margin-left: auto; - margin-right: auto; - max-width: 70em; -} - -td.right { - text-align: right; - vertical-align: top; - padding-left: 3em; -} - -td.chn { - text-align: right; - vertical-align: top; - padding-right: 1em; -} - -td.cht { - text-align: left; - vertical-align: top; - padding-left: 1em; - text-indent:-1em; - font-variant: small-caps;} - -td.cht1 { - text-align: left; - vertical-align: top; - padding-left: 1em; - text-indent:-1em;} - -td.ccn { - padding-top: 1em; - text-align: center; - font-variant: small-caps; - font-weight: bold; -} - -.tdr {text-align: right;} - -.pagenum {/* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ - /* visibility: hidden; */ - position: absolute; - left: 92%; - font-size: smaller; - text-align: right; - font-style: normal; - font-weight: normal; - font-variant: normal; -} /* page numbers */ - -.blockquot { - margin-left: 5%; - margin-right: 10%; -} - -.center {text-align: center;} - -.right {text-align: right;} - -.smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} - -.allsmcap {font-variant: small-caps; text-transform: lowercase;} - -.caption {font-weight: bold;} - -/* Images */ - -img { - max-width: 100%; - height: auto; -} - -.figcenter { - margin: auto; - text-align: center; - page-break-inside: avoid; - max-width: 100%; -} - -.advert-container {text-align: center; - border: solid 0.2em; - border-color: #cccccc; - padding-left: 1em; - padding-right: 1em; - margin-left: 4%; - margin-right: 4%;} - -/* Transcriber's notes */ -.transnote {background-color: #E6E6FA; - color: black; - font-size:smaller; - padding:0.5em; - margin-bottom:5em; - font-family:sans-serif, serif;} - - </style> - </head> -<body> -<p style='text-align:center; font-size:1.2em; font-weight:bold'>The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Canary Islands, by Florence Du Cane</p> -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online -at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you -are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the -country where you are located before using this eBook. -</div> - -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: The Canary Islands</p> - <p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: Florence Du Cane</p> - <p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Artist: Ella Du Cane</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: September 21, 2021 [eBook #66355]</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</p> - <p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; text-align:left'>Produced by: Fay Dunn, Fiona Holmes and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) </p> -<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CANARY ISLANDS ***</div> - - -<div class="transnote"> -<h2>Transcriber’s Notes.</h2> -<p>In the Contents List, a V has been added to show VI.</p> - -<p>Page 35 — swalwart changed to stalwart (two stalwart girls).</p> - -<p>Page 41 — form changed to from (entirely hidden from our eyes).</p> - -<p>Page 165 — iberty changed to liberty (“fly-flappers” were set - at liberty).</p> - -<p>Hyphenation has been standardised.</p> -</div> - -<p class="space-above4"></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_cover.jpg" alt="" width="691" height="1000" /> -</div> - -<p class="space-above2"></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_frontis"><img src="images/i_frontis.jpg" alt="" width="255" height="560" /></a> -<p class="caption center p90">A PATIO</p> -</div> - -<p class="space-above2"></p> - -<div class="chapter"> -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_title.jpg" alt="" width="362" height="550" /> -</div> -</div> - - - - -<div class="chapter"> -<h1> THE<br /> - CANARY ISLANDS</h1> - -<p class="space-above4"></p> - -<p class="p90"> BY - FLORENCE DU CANE</p> - -<p class="space-above4"></p> - -<p class="p80"> WITH 16 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS<br /> - IN COLOUR BY ELLA DU CANE</p> - -<p class="space-above4"></p> - -<p class="p80"> A. & C. BLACK LTD.<br /> - 4, 5 & 6 SOHO SQUARE, LONDON, W.1.</p> - -<p class="space-above4"></p> - -<p class="center p80"> PRINTED IN GREAT BRITAIN</p> -<p class="center p80"> <em>First published in 1911</em></p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap1 x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_v">[v]</span></p> -<h2>CONTENTS</h2> -</div> -<table id="toc" summary="Contents"> - <tr> - <td colspan="1"> </td> - <td class="tdr"><small>PAGE</small></td> -</tr><tr> - <td class="ccn" colspan="2">I</td> - <td></td> - </tr><tr> - <td class="cht">TENERIFFE</td> - <td class="right"><a href="#Page_1">1</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td class="ccn" colspan="2">II</td> - </tr><tr> - <td class="cht1"><span class="smcap lowercase">TENERIFFE</span> (<em>continued</em>)</td> - <td class="right"><a href="#Page_21">21</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td class="ccn" colspan="2">III</td> - </tr><tr> - <td class="cht1">TENERIFFE (<em>continued</em>)</td> - <td class="right"><a href="#Page_32">32</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td class="ccn" colspan="2">IV</td> - </tr><tr> - <td class="cht1">TENERIFFE (<em>continued</em>)</td> - <td class="right"><a href="#Page_50">50</a></td> -</tr><tr> - <td class="ccn" colspan="2">V</td> -</tr><tr> - <td class="cht1">TENERIFFE (<em>continued</em>)</td> - <td class="right"><a href="#Page_68">68</a></td> -</tr><tr> - <td class="ccn" colspan="2">VI</td> -</tr><tr> - <td class="cht1">TENERIFFE (<em>continued</em>)</td> - <td class="right"><a href="#Page_84">84</a></td> -</tr><tr> - <td class="ccn" colspan="2">VII</td> -</tr><tr> - <td class="cht1">TENERIFFE (<em>continued</em>)</td> - <td class="right"><a href="#Page_93">93</a></td> -</tr><tr> -<td><span class="pagenum" id="Page_vi">[vi]</span></td> -</tr><tr> - <td class="ccn" colspan="2">VIII</td> -</tr><tr> - <td class="cht">GRAND CANARY</td> - <td class="right"><a href="#Page_105">105</a></td> -</tr><tr> - <td class="ccn" colspan="2">IX</td> -</tr><tr> - <td class="cht1">GRAND CANARY (<em>continued</em>)</td> - <td class="right"><a href="#Page_115">115</a></td> -</tr><tr> - <td class="ccn" colspan="2">X</td> -</tr><tr> - <td class="cht1">GRAND CANARY (<em>continued</em>)</td> - <td class="right"><a href="#Page_127">127</a></td> -</tr><tr> - <td class="ccn" colspan="2">XI</td> -</tr><tr> - <td class="cht">LA PALMA</td> - <td class="right"><a href="#Page_136">136</a></td> -</tr><tr> - <td class="ccn" colspan="2">XII</td> -</tr><tr> - <td class="cht">GOMERA</td> - <td class="right"><a href="#Page_146">146</a></td> -</tr><tr> - <td class="ccn" colspan="2">XIII</td> -</tr><tr> - <td class="cht">FUERTEVENTURA, LANZAROTE AND HIERRO</td> - <td class="right"><a href="#Page_151">151</a></td> -</tr><tr> - <td class="ccn" colspan="2">XIV</td> -</tr><tr> - <td class="cht">HISTORICAL SKETCH</td> - <td class="right"><a href="#Page_160">160</a></td> -</tr> -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_vii">[vii]</span></p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> -</div> - -<table class="toi" summary="Illustrations"> -<tr> - <td class="chn">1.</td> - <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">A Patio</span></td> - <td colspan="2" class="tdr"><a href="#image_frontis"><em>Frontispiece</em></a></td> - <td colspan="2"> </td> -</tr><tr> -<td></td> -<td></td> - <td class="right"><small><small>FACING PAGE</small></small></td> -</tr><tr> - <td class="chn">2.</td> - <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">A Street in Puerto Orotava</span></td> - <td class="right"><a href="#Page_16">16</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td class="chn">3.</td> - <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">The Peak, from Villa Orotava</span></td> - <td class="right"><a href="#Page_21">21</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td class="chn">4.</td> - <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">Realejo Alto</span></td> - <td class="right"><a href="#Page_28">28</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td class="chn">5.</td> - <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">Entrance to a Spanish Villa</span></td> - <td class="right"><a href="#Page_49">49</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td class="chn">6.</td> - <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">Statices and Pride of Teneriffe</span></td> - <td class="right"><a href="#Page_64">64</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td class="chn">7.</td> - <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">La Paz</span></td> - <td class="right"><a href="#Page_69">69</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td class="chn">8.</td> - <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">Botanical Gardens, Orotava</span></td> - <td class="right"><a href="#Page_76">76</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td class="chn">9.</td> - <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">El Sitio del Gardo</span></td> - <td class="right"><a href="#Page_81">81</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td class="chn">10.</td> - <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">Convent of Sant Augustin, Icod de Los Vinos</span></td> - <td class="right"><a href="#Page_96">96</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td class="chn">11.</td> - <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">An Old Balcony</span></td> - <td class="right"><a href="#Page_113">113</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td class="chn">12.</td> - <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">A Banana Cart</span></td> - <td class="right"><a href="#Page_117">117</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td class="chn">13.</td> - <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">An Old Gateway</span></td> - <td class="right"><a href="#Page_124">124</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td class="chn">14.</td> - <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">The Canary Pine</span></td> - <td class="right"><a href="#Page_128">128</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td class="chn">15.</td> - <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">San Sebastian</span></td> - <td class="right"><a href="#Page_149">149</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td class="chn">16.</td> - <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">A Spanish Garden</span></td> - <td class="right"><a href="#Page_156">156</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td colspan="1"> </td> - <td class="cht1"><em>Sketch Map at end of volume</em></td> - </tr> -</table> - - -<hr class="chap1 x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_1">[1]</span></p> -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CANARY_ISLANDS">CANARY ISLANDS</h2> -</div> - - -<p class="center"><abbr title="1">I</abbr></p> - -<p class="center">TENERIFFE</p> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Probably</span> many people have shared my feeling of -disappointment on landing at Santa Cruz. I had -long ago realised that few places come up to the -standard of one’s preconceived ideas, so my mental -picture was not in this case a very beautiful one; -but even so, the utter hideousness of the capital -of Teneriffe was a shock to me.</p> - -<p>Unusually clear weather at sea had shown us -our first glimpse of the Peak, rising like a phantom -mountain out of the clouds when 100 miles distant, -but as we drew nearer to land the clouds had -gathered, and the cone was wrapped in a mantle of -mist. There is no disappointment attached to -one’s first impression of the Island as seen from the -sea. The jagged range of hills seemed to come -sheer down to the coast, and appeared to have been<span class="pagenum" id="Page_2">[2]</span> -torn and rent by some extraordinary upheaval of -Nature; the deep ravines (or <em>barrancos</em> as I afterwards -learnt to call them) were full of dark blue -mysterious shadows, a deeply indented coast-line -stretched far away in the distance, and I thought -the land well deserved to be called one of the -Fortunate Islands.</p> - -<p>Santa Cruz, or to give it its full title, Santa Cruz -de Santiago, though one of the oldest towns in the -Canaries, looked, as our ship glided into the harbour, -as though it had been built yesterday, or might -even be still in course of construction. Lying low -on the shore the flat yellow-washed houses, with -their red roofs, are thickly massed together, the -sheer ugliness of the town being redeemed by the -spires of a couple of old churches, which look down -reprovingly on the modern houses below. Arid -slopes rise gradually behind the town, and appear -to be utterly devoid of vegetation. Perched on a -steep ridge is the Hotel Quisisana, which cannot -be said to add to the beauty of the scene, and -all my sympathy went out to those who were -condemned to spend a winter in such desolate -surroundings in search of health.</p> - -<p>Probably no foreign town is entirely devoid of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</span> -interest to the traveller. On landing, the picturesque -objects which meet the eye make one realise that -once one’s foot has left the last step of the gangway -of the ship, England and everything English has -been left behind. The crowd of swarthy loafers -who lounge about the quay in tight yellow or white -garments, are true sons of a southern race, and -laugh and chatter gaily with handsome black-eyed -girls. Sturdy country women are settling heavy -loads on their donkeys, preparatory to taking their -seat on the top of the pack for their journey over -the hills. Their peculiar head-dress consists of a -tiny straw hat, no larger than a saucer, which acts -as a pad for the loads they carry on their heads, -from which hangs a large black handkerchief either -fluttering in the wind, or drawn closely round the -shoulders like a shawl.</p> - -<p>Here and there old houses remain, dating from -the days when the wine trade was at its zenith, -and though many have now been turned into consulates -and shipping offices, they stand in reproachful -contrast to the buildings run up cheaply at a -later date. Through many an open doorway one -gets a glimpse of these cool spacious old houses, -whose broad staircases and deep balconies surround<span class="pagenum" id="Page_4">[4]</span> -a shady <em>patio</em> or court-yard. On the ground floor -the wine was stored and the living rooms opened -into the roomy balconies on the first floor. Here -and there a small open Plaza, where drooping -pepper trees shade stone seats, affords breathing-space, -but over all and everything was a thick -coating of grey dust, which gave a squalid appearance -to the town. Narrow ill-paved streets, up -which struggle lean, over-worked mules, dragging -heavy rumbling carts, lead out of the town, and I -was thankful to shake the dust of Santa Cruz off -my feet; not that one does, as unless there has -been very recent rain the dust follows everywhere. -An electric tramway winds its way up the slopes -behind the town at a very leisurely pace, giving -one ample time to survey the scene.</p> - -<p>The only vegetation which looks at home in -the dry dusty soil is prickly pear, a legacy of -the cochineal culture. In those halcyon days -arid spots were brought into cultivation and the -cactus planted everywhere. In the eighteenth -century the islanders had merely regarded cochineal -as a loathsome form of blight, and it was forbidden -to be landed for fear it should spoil their -prickly pears, but prejudice was overcome, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_5">[5]</span> -when it was realised that a possible source of -wealth was to be found in the cultivation of -the cactus, <em>Opuntia coccinellifera</em>, which is the -most suited to the insect, the craze began. Land -was almost unobtainable; the amount of labour -was enormous which was expended in breaking up -the lava to reach the soil below, in terracing hills -wherever it was possible to terrace; property was -mortgaged to buy new fields; in fact, the islanders -thought their land was as good as a gold-mine. -The following figures are given by Mr. Samler -Brown to show the extraordinary rapidity with -which the trade developed. “In 1831 the first -shipment was 8 lb., the price at first being about -ten pesetas a lb.; in ten years it had increased -to 100,566 lb., and in 1869 the highest total, -6,076,869 lb., with a value of £789,993.” The -rumour of the discovery of aniline dyes alarmed -the islanders, but for a time they were not -sufficiently manufactured seriously to affect the -cochineal trade, though the fall in prices began to -make merchants talk of over-production. The -crisis came in 1874, when the price in London fell -to 1<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> or 2<em>s.</em>, and the ruin to the cochineal -industry was a foregone conclusion. Aniline<span class="pagenum" id="Page_6">[6]</span> -dyes had taken the public taste, and though -cochineal has been proved to be the only red -dye to resist rain and hard wear, the demand -is now small, and merchants who had bought -up and stored the dried insect were left with -unsaleable stock on their hands. Retribution, we -are told, was swift, sudden, and universal, and -the farmer who had spent so much on bringing -land into cultivation foot by foot, realised that -the cactus must be rooted up or he must face -starvation.</p> - -<p>Possibly there are many other people as ignorant -as I was myself on my first visit to the Canaries -on the subject of cochineal. Beyond the fact that -cochineal was a red dye and used occasionally as -a colouring-matter in cooking, I could not safely -have answered any question concerning it. I was -much disgusted at finding that it is really the -blood of an insect which looks like a cross between -a “wood-louse” and a “mealy-bug,” with a fat -body rather like a currant. The most common -method of cultivation, I believe, was to allow the -insect to attach itself to a piece of muslin in the -spring, which was then laid on to a box full of -“mothers” in a room at a very high temperature.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_7">[7]</span></p> - -<p>The muslin was then fastened on to the leaf of the -cactus by means of the thorns of the wild prickly -pear. When once attached to the leaf the <em>madre</em> -cannot move again. There were two different -methods of killing the insect to send it to market, -one by smoking it with sulphur and the other by -shaking it in sacks. A colony of the insects on a -prickly pear leaf looks like a large patch of lumpy -blight, most unpleasant, and enough to make any -one say they would never again eat anything -coloured with cochineal.</p> - -<p>This terraced land is now cultivated with potatoes -and tomatoes for the English market, but the -shower of gold in which every one shared in the -days of the cochineal boom is no more, though the -banana trade in other parts of the island seems -likely to revive those good old days.</p> - -<p>La Laguna, about five miles above Santa Cruz, -is one of the oldest towns in Teneriffe; it was the -stronghold of the Guanches and the scene of the -most desperate fighting with the Spanish invaders. -To-day it looks merely a sleepy little town, but can -boast of several fine old churches, besides the old -Convente de San Augustin which has been turned -into the official seat of learning, containing a very<span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">[8]</span> -large public library, and the Bishop’s Palace which -has a fine old stone façade. The cathedral appears -to be in a perpetual state of repairing or rebuilding, -and though begun in 1513 is not yet completed. -One of the principal sights of La Laguna is the -wonderful old Dragon tree in the garden of the -Seminary attached to the Church of Santo Domingo, -of which the age is unknown. The girth of its -trunk speaks for itself of its immense age, and I -was not surprised to hear that even in the fifteenth -century it was a sufficiently fine specimen to cause -the land on which it stood to be known as “the -farm of the Dragon tree.”</p> - -<p>Foreigners regard the town chiefly as being a -good centre for expeditions, which, judging by the -list in our guide-book, are almost innumerable. -One ride into the beautiful pine forest of La Mina -should certainly be undertaken, and unless the -smooth clay paths are slippery after rain the walking -is easy. After a long stay in either Santa -Cruz or even Orotava, where large trees are rare, -there is a great enchantment in finding oneself -once more among forest trees, and what splendid -trees are these native pines, <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Pinus canariensis</i>, and -in damp spots one revels in the ferns and mosses,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">[9]</span> -which form such a contrast to the vegetation one -has grown accustomed to.</p> - -<p>Alexander von Humboldt who spent a few days -in Teneriffe, on his way to South America, landing -in Santa Cruz on June 19, 1799, was much struck -by the contrast of the climate of La Laguna to -that of Santa Cruz. The following is an extract -from his account of the journey he made across the -island in order to ascend the Peak: “As we -approached La Laguna, we felt the temperature -of the atmosphere gradually become lower. This -sensation was so much the more agreeable, as -we found the air of Santa Cruz very oppressive. -As our organs are more affected by disagreeable -impressions, the change of temperature becomes -still more sensible when we return from Laguna -to the port, we seem then to be drawing near the -mouth of a furnace. The same impression is felt -when, on the coast of Caracas, we descend from -the mountain of Avila to the port of La Guayra.... -The perpetual coolness which prevails at La -Laguna causes it to be regarded in the Canaries as -a delightful abode.</p> - -<p>“Situated in a small plain, surrounded by gardens, -protected by a hill which is crowned by a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">[10]</span> -wood of laurels, myrtles and arbutus, the capital of -Teneriffe is very beautifully placed. We should be -mistaken if, relying on the account of some travellers, -we believed it rested on the border of a lake. -The rain sometimes forms a sheet of water of considerable -extent, and the geologist, who beholds -in everything the past rather than the present state -of nature, can have no doubt but that the whole -plain is a great basin dried up.”</p> - -<p>“Laguna has fallen from its opulence, since the -lateral eruptions of the volcano have destroyed the -port of Garachico, and since Santa Cruz has become -the central point of the commerce of the island. -It contains only 9000 inhabitants, of whom nearly -400 are monks, distributed in six convents. The -town is surrounded with a great number of windmills, -which indicate the cultivation of wheat in -these higher countries....”</p> - -<p>“A great number of chapels, which the Spaniards -call <em>ermitas</em>, encircle the town of Laguna. Shaded -by trees of perpetual verdure, and erected on small -eminences, these chapels add to the picturesque -effect of the landscape. The interior of the town -is not equal to the external appearance. The houses -are solidly built but very antique, and the streets<span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">[11]</span> -seem deserted. A botanist should not complain of -the antiquity of the edifices, as the roofs and walls -are covered with Canary house leek and those -elegant <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">trichomanes</i> mentioned by every traveller. -These plants are nourished by the abundant -mists....”</p> - -<p>“In winter the climate of Laguna is extremely -foggy, and the inhabitants complain often of the -cold. A fall of snow, however, has never been seen, -a fact which may seem to indicate that the mean -temperature of this town must be above 15° R., -that is to say higher than that of Naples....”</p> - -<p>“I was astonished to find that M. Broussonet -had planted in the midst of this town in the garden -of the Marquis de Nava, the bread-fruit tree (<i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Artocarpus -incise</i>) and cinnamon trees (<i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Laurus cinnamonum</i>). -These valuable productions of the South -Sea and the East Indies are naturalised there as -well as at Orotava.”</p> - -<p>The most usual route to Tacoronte <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">en route</i> to -Orotava, the ultimate destination of most travellers, -is by the main road or <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">carretera</i>, which reaches -the summit of the pass shortly after leaving -La Laguna, at a height of 2066 feet. The redeeming -feature of the otherwise uninteresting<span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">[12]</span> -road is the long avenue of eucalyptus trees, which -gives welcome shade in summer. If time and -distance are of no account, and the journey is -being made by motor, the lower road by Tejina is -far preferable. The high banks of the lanes are -crowned with feathery old junipers, in spring the -grassy slopes are gay with wild flowers, and here -and there stretches of yellow broom (<i lang="la" xml:lang="la">spartium -junceum</i>) fill the air with its delicious scent. -Turns in the road reveal unexpected glimpses of -the Peak on the long descent to the little village -of Tegueste, and below lies the church of Tejina, -only a few hundred feet above the sea. Here the -road turns and ascends again to Tacoronte, and the -Peak now faces one, the cone often rising clear -above a bank of clouds which covers the base.</p> - -<p>At Tacoronte the tram-line ends and either a -carriage or motor takes the traveller over the remaining -fifteen miles down through the fertile valley -to Puerto Orotava. The valley is justly famous for -its beauty, and in clear winter weather, when the -Peak has a complete mantle of snow, no one can -refrain from exclaiming at the beauty of the scene, -when at one bend of the road the whole valley -lies stretched at one’s feet, bathed in sunshine<span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">[13]</span> -and enclosed in a semi-circle of snow-capped -mountains. The clouds cast blue shadows on the -mountain sides, and here and there patches of -white mist sweep across the valley; the dark pine -woods lie in sharp contrast to the brilliant colouring -of the chestnut woods whose leaves have been -suddenly turned to red gold by frost in the higher -land. In the lower land broad stretches of banana -fields are interspersed with ridges of uncultivated -ground, where almond, fig trees and prickly pears -still find a home, and clumps of the native Canary -palm trees wave their feathery heads in the wind. -Small wonder that even as great a traveller as -Humboldt was so struck with the beauty of the -scene that he is said to have thrown himself on his -knees in order to salute the sight as the finest in -the world. Without any such extravagant demonstration -as that of the great traveller, it is worth -while to stop and enjoy the view; though, to be -sure, carriages travel at such a leisurely rate in -Teneriffe, one has ample time to survey the scene. -The guardian-angel of the valley—the Peak—dominates -the broad expanse of land and sea, in -times of peace, a placid broad white pyramid. But -at times the mountain has become angry and waved<span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">[14]</span> -a flaming sword over the land, and for this reason -the Guanches christened it the Pico de Teide or -Hell, though they appear to have also regarded it -as the Seat of the Deity.</p> - -<p>Humboldt himself describes the scene in the -following words: “The valley of Tacoronte is the -entrance into that charming country, of which -travellers of every nation have spoken with rapturous -enthusiasm. Under the torrid zone I found -sites where Nature is more majestic and richer in -the display of organic forms; but after having -traversed the banks of the Orinoco, the Cordilleras -of Peru, and the most beautiful valleys of Mexico, -I own that I have never beheld a prospect more -varied, more attractive, more harmonious in the -distribution of the masses of verdure and rocks, -than the western coast of Teneriffe.</p> - -<p>“The sea-coast is lined with date and cocoa trees; -groups of the <em>musa</em>, as the country rises, form a -pleasing contrast with the dragon tree, the trunks -of which have been justly compared to the tortuous -form of the serpent. The declivities are covered -with vines, which throw their branches over towering -poles. Orange trees loaded with flowers, -myrtles and cypress trees encircle the chapels<span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">[15]</span> -reared to devotion on the isolated hills. The -divisions of landed property are marked by hedges -formed of the agave and the cactus. An innumerable -number of cryptogamous plants, among -which ferns most predominate, cover the walls, and -are moistened by small springs of limpid water.</p> - -<p>“In winter, when the volcano is buried under ice -and snow, this district enjoys perpetual spring. In -summer as the day declines, the breezes from the -sea diffuse a delicious freshness....</p> - -<p>“From Tegueste and Tacoronte to the village of -San Juan de la Rambla (which is celebrated for its -excellent Malmsey wine) the rising hills are cultivated -like a garden. I might compare them to the -environs of Capua and Valentia, if the western part -of Teneriffe were not infinitely more beautiful on -account of the proximity of the Peak, which presents -on every side a new point of view.</p> - -<p>“The aspect of this mountain is interesting, not -merely from its gigantic mass; it excites the mind, -by carrying it back to the mysterious source of its -volcanic agency. For thousands of years no flames -or light have been perceived on the summit of the -Piton, nevertheless enormous lateral eruptions, the -last of which took place in 1798, are proofs of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">[16]</span> -activity of a fire still far from being extinguished. -There is also something that leaves a melancholy -impression on beholding a crater in the centre of a -fertile and well-cultivated country. The history of -the globe tells us that volcanoes destroy what they -have been a long series of ages in creating. Islands -which the action of submarine fires has raised above -the water, are by degrees clothed in rich and smiling -verdure; but these new lands are often laid waste by -the renewed action of the same power which caused -them to emerge from the bottom of the ocean. Islets, -which are now but heaps of scoriæ and volcanic -ashes, were once perhaps as fertile as the hills of -Tacoronte and Sauzal. Happy the country where -man has no distrust of the soil on which he lives.”</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_024.jpg" alt="" width="344" height="560" /> -<p class="caption center p90">A STREET IN PUERTO OROTAVA</p> -</div> - -<p>Low on the shore lies the little sea-port town of -Orotava, known as the Puerto to distinguish it from -the older and more important Villa Orotava lying -some three miles away inland, at a higher altitude. -Further along the coast is San Juan de la Rambla, -and on the lower slopes of the opposite wall of the -valley are the picturesque villages of Realejo Alto -and Bajo, while Icod el Alto is perched at the very -edge of the dark cliffs of the Tigaia at a height of -about 1700 ft. A gap in the further mountain -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">[17]</span>range is known as the Portillo, the Fortaleza rises -above this “gateway,” and from this point begins -the long gradual sweep of the Tigaia, which, from -the valley, hides all but the very cone of the Peak. -Above Villa Orotava towers Pedro Gil and the -Montaña Blanca, with the sun glittering on its -freshly fallen snow, and near at hand are the villages -of Sauzal, Santa Ursula, Matanza and La Victoria.</p> - -<p>Though Humboldt describes them as “smiling -hamlets,” he comments on their names which he -says are “mingled together in all the Spanish -colonies, and they form an unpleasing contract with -the peaceful and tranquil feelings which these -countries inspire.</p> - -<p>“Matanza signifies slaughter, or carnage, and the -word alone recalls the price at which victory has -been purchased. In the New World it generally -indicates the defeat of the natives; at Teneriffe the -village Matanza was built in a place where the -Spaniards were conquered by those same Guanches -who soon after were sold as slaves in the markets -of Europe.”</p> - -<p>In early winter the terraced ridges, which are -cultivated with wheat and potatoes, are a blot in -the landscape, brown and bare, but in spring, after<span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">[18]</span> -the winter rains, these slopes will be transformed -into sheets of emerald green, and it is then that the -valley looks its best. For a few days, all too few, -the almond trees are smothered with their delicate -pale pink blooms, but one night’s rain or a few -hours’ rough wind will scatter all their blossoms, -and nothing will remain of their rosy loveliness but -a carpet of bruised and fallen petals.</p> - -<p>The valley soon reveals traces of the upheavals of -Nature in a bygone age; broad streams of lava, -which at some time poured down the valley, remain -grey and desolate-looking, almost devoid of vegetation, -and the two cinder heaps or <em>fumaroles</em> resembling -huge blackened mole-hills, though not -entirely bare, cannot be admired. No one seems to -know their exact history or age, but it appears -pretty certain that they developed perfectly independently -of any eruption of the Peak itself, -though perhaps not “growing in a single night,” -as I was once solemnly assured they had done. One -theory, which sounded not improbable, was that the -bed of lava on which several English villas, the -church and the Grand Hotel have been built, was -originally spouted out of one of these cinder heaps, -and the hill on which the hotel stands was in former<span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">[19]</span> -days the edge of the cliff. The lava is supposed to -have flowed over the edge and accumulated to such -a depth in the sea below that it formed the plateau of -low-lying ground on which the Puerto now stands.</p> - -<p>The little town is not without attraction, though -its streets are dusty and unswept, being only cleaned -once a year, in honour of the Feast of Corpus -Christi, on which day at the Villa carpets of -elaborate design, arranged out of the petals of -flowers, run down the centre of the streets where -the processions are to pass. My first impression of -the town was that it appeared to be a deserted city, -hardly a foot passenger was to be seen, and my -own donkey was the only beast of burden in the -main street of the town. Gorgeous masses of -bougainvillea tumbled over garden walls, and -glimpses were to be seen through open doorways of -creeper-clad <em>patios</em>. The carved balconies with -their little tiled roofs are inseparable from all the -old houses, more or less decorated according to the -importance of the house. The soft green of the -woodwork of the houses, and more especially of the -solid green shutters or <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">postijos</i>, behind which the -inhabitants seem to spend many hours gazing into -the streets, was always a source of admiration to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">[20]</span> -me. The main street ends with the mole, and -looking seawards the surf appears to dash up into -the street itself. The town wakes to life when -a cargo steamer comes into the port, and then one -long stream of carts, drawn by the finest oxen I -have ever seen, finds its way to the mole, to unload -the crates of bananas which are frequently sold on -the quay itself to the contractors.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_031.jpg" alt="" width="407" height="550" /> -<p class="caption center p90">THE PEAK, FROM VILLA OROTAVA</p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">[21]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="II"><abbr title="2">II</abbr></h2> -</div> - -<p class="center">TENERIFFE (<em>continued</em>)</p> - - -<p><span class="smcap">About</span> a thousand feet above the Puerto de -Orotava, on the long gradual slope which sweeps -down from Pedro Gil forming the valley of -Orotava, lies the <em>villa</em> or town of Orotava. This -most picturesque old town is of far more interest -than the somewhat squalid port, being the home of -many old Spanish families, whose beautiful houses -are the best examples of Spanish architecture in -the Canaries. Besides their quiet <em>patios</em>, which -are shady and cool even on the hottest summer -days, the exterior of many of the houses is most -beautiful. The admirable work of the carved -balconies and shutters, the iron-work and carved -stone-work cannot fail to make every one admire -houses which are rapidly becoming unique. The -Spaniards have, alas! like many other nations, lost -their taste in architecture, and the modern houses -which are springing up all too quickly make one<span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">[22]</span> -shudder to contemplate. Some had been built to -replace those which had been burnt, others were -merely being built by men who had made a fortune -in the banana trade. Not satisfied with their old -solid houses, with their fine old stone doorways and -overhanging wooden balconies, they are ruthlessly -destroying them to build a fearsome modern monstrosity, -possibly more comfortable to live in, but -most offending to the eye. The love of their -gardens seems also to be dying out, and as I -once heard some one impatiently exclaim, “They -have no soul above bananas,” and it is true that -the culture of bananas is at the moment of all-absorbing -interest.</p> - -<p>Though the <em>patios</em> of the houses may be decked -with plants, the air being kept cool and moist by -the spray of a tinkling fountain, many of the little -gardens at the back of these old family mansions -have fallen into a sad state of disorder and decay. -The myrtle and box hedges, formerly the pride of -their owners, are no longer kept trim and shorn, -and the little beds are no longer full of flowers. -One garden remains to show how, when even -slightly tended, flowers grow and flourish in the -cooler air of the Villa. In former days a giant<span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">[23]</span> -chestnut tree was the pride of this garden, only its -venerable trunk now remains to tell of its departed -glories; but the <em>poyos</em> (double walls) are full of -flowers all the year, and the native <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">Pico de paloma</i> -(<i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Lotus Berthelotii</i>) flourishes better here than in -any other garden; it drapes the walls and half -smothers the steps and stone seats with its garlands -of soft grey-green, and in spring is covered with its -deep red “pigeons’ beaks.” The walls are gay with -stocks, carnations, verbenas, lilies, geraniums, and -hosts of plants. Long hedges of <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Libonia floribunda</i>, -the <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">bandera d’España</i> of the natives, as its red and -yellow blossoms represent the national colours of -Spain, line the entrance, and in unconsidered damp -corners white arum lilies grow, the rather despised -<i lang="es" xml:lang="es">orejas de burros</i>, or donkeys’ ears, of the country -people, who give rather apt nick-names to not only -flowers, but people.</p> - -<p>Though the higher-class Spaniards are a most -exclusive race, I met with nothing but civility from -their hands when asking permission to see their -<em>patio</em> or gardens; as much cannot be said for -the middle and lower classes of to-day, who are -distinctly anti-foreign. The lower classes appear -to regard an incessant stream of pennies as their<span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">[24]</span> -right, and hurl abuse or stones at your head when -their persistent begging is ignored, and even -tradesmen are often insolent to foreigners. A -spirit of independence and republicanism is very -apparent. An employer of labour can obviously -keep no control over his men, who work when they -choose, or more often don’t work when they don’t -choose, and the mother or father of a family keeps -no control over the children. One day I asked our -gardener why he did not send his children to -school to learn to read and write, as he was -deploring that he could not read the names of the -seeds he was sowing. I thought it was a good -moment to point a moral, but he shrugged his -shoulders, and said they did not care to go, and -also they had no shoes and could not go to school -barefoot. The man was living rent free, earning -the same wages as an average English labourer, -and two sons in work contributed to the expenses -of the house, besides the money he got for the crop -on a small piece of land which the whole family -cultivated on Sundays, and still he could not -afford to provide shoes in order that his children -should learn to read and write. Another man -announced with pride that one of his children<span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">[25]</span> -attended school. Knowing he had two, I inquired, -“Why only one?” On which he owned that -the other one used to go, but now she refused -to do so, and neither he nor his wife could -make her go. This independent person was aged -nine!</p> - -<p>One of the great curiosities of the Villa was the -great Dragon Tree, and though it stands no more, -visitors are still shown the site where it once stood -and are told of its immense age. Humboldt gave -the age of the tree at the time of his visit as being -at least 6000 years, and though this may have been -excessive, there is no doubt that it was of extreme -age. It was blown down and the remains accidentally -destroyed by fire in 1867, and only old -engravings remain to tell of its wondrous size. -The hollow trunk was large enough for a good-sized -room or cave, and in the days of the Guanches, -when a national assembly was summoned to -create a new chief or lord, the meeting place -was at the great Dragon Tree. The land on -which it stood was afterwards enclosed and became -the garden of the Marques de Sauzal.</p> - -<p>The ceremony of initiating a lord was a curious -one, and the Overlord of Taoro (the old name of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">[26]</span> -Orotava), was the greatest of these lords, having -6000 warriors at his command. Though the dignity -was inherited, it was not necessary that it should -pass from father to son, and more frequently passed -from brother to brother. “When they raised one -to be lord they had this custom. Each lordship -had a bone of the most ancient lord in their -lineage wrapped in skins and guarded. The most -ancient councillors were convoked to the ‘Tagoror,’ -or place of assembly. After his election the king -was given this bone to kiss. After having kissed -it he put it over his head. Then the rest of the -principal people put it over his shoulder, and he -said, ‘<i lang="es" xml:lang="es">Agoñe yacoron yñatzahaña Chacoñamet</i>’ -(I swear by the bone on this day on which you -have made me great). This was the ceremony of -the coronation, and on the same day the people -were called that they might know whom they had -for their lord. He feasted them, and there were -general banquets at the cost of the new lord and his -relations. Great pomp appears to have surrounded -these lords, and any one meeting them in the road -when they progressed to change their summer -residence in the mountains to one by the sea in -winter, was expected to prostrate himself on the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">[27]</span> -ground, and on rising to cleanse the king’s feet -with the edge of his coat of skins.” (See “The -Guanches of Teneriffe,” by Sir Clement Markham.) -After the conquest the Spaniards turned the -temple of the Guanches into a chapel, and Mass was -said within the tree.</p> - -<p>In the Villa are several fine old churches, whose -spires and domes are her fairest adornment. The -principal church is the Iglesia de la Concepcion, -whose domes dominate the whole town. The -exterior of the church is very fine, though the interior -is not so interesting. It is curious to think -how the silver communion plate, said to have -belonged to St. Paul’s Cathedral in London, can -have come into the possession of this church. The -theory that this and similar plate in the Cathedral -at Las Palmas are the scattered remains of the -magnificent church plate which was sold and dispersed -by the order of Oliver Cromwell is generally -accepted.</p> - -<p>The fine old doorway and tower of the Convent -and Church of Santo Domingo date from a time -when the Spaniards had more soul for the beautiful -than they have at the present time.</p> - -<p>The narrow steep cobbled streets are hardly any<span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">[28]</span> -of them without interest, and the old balconies, the -carved shutters and glimpses of flowery <em>patios</em>, with -a gorgeous mass of creeper tumbling over a garden -wall or wreathing an old doorway, combine to make -it a most picturesque town. A feature of almost -every Spanish house is the little latticed hutch which -covers the drip stone filter. In many an old house -creepers and ferns, revelling in the dampness which -exudes from the constantly wet stone, almost cover -the little house, and even the stone itself grows -maiden-hair or other ferns, and their presence is -not regarded as interfering with the purifying -properties of the stone, in which the natives place -great faith. I never could believe that clean water -could in any way benefit by being passed through -the dirt of ages which must accumulate in these -stones, there being no means of cleaning them -except on the surface. The red earthenware water-pots -of decidedly classical shape are made in every -size, and a tiny child may be seen learning to carry -a diminutive one on her head with a somewhat uncertain -gait which she will soon outgrow, and in -a year or two will stride along carrying a large -water-pot all unconscious of her load, leaving her -two hands free to carry another burden.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_040.jpg" alt="" width="401" height="550" /> -<p class="caption center p90">REALEJO ALTO</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">[29]</span></p> -<p>A charming walk or donkey-ride leads from the -Villa along fairly level country to Realejo Alto, -passing through the two little villages of La -Perdoma and La Cruz Santa. In early spring the -almond blossom gives a rosy tinge to many a -stretch of rough uncultivated ground, and in the -villages over the garden walls was wafted the heavy -scent of orange blossoms. The trees at this altitude -seemed freer of the deadly black blight which -has ravaged all the orange groves on the lower -land, and altogether the vegetation struck one as -being more luxuriant and more forward. The -cottage-garden walls were gay with flowers: stocks, -mauve and white, the favourite <em>alelis</em> of the natives, -long trails of geraniums and wreaths of <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">Pico de -paloma</i>, pinks and carnations and hosts of other -flowers I noticed as we rode past.</p> - -<p>The village of Realejo Alto is, without doubt, -the most picturesque village I ever saw in the -Canaries. Its situation on a very steep slope with -the houses seemingly piled one above the other is -very suggestive of an Italian mountain village. -Part of the Church of San Santiago, the portion -next the tower, is supposed to be the oldest church -in the island, and the spire, the most prominent<span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">[30]</span> -feature of the village and neighbourhood, is worthy -of the rest of the old church. The interior of the -church is not without interest when seen in a -good light, and a fine old doorway is said to -be the work of Spanish workmen shortly after -the conquest. The carved stone-work round this -doorway and a very similar one in the lower village -are unique specimens of this style of work in the -islands.</p> - -<p>The <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">barranco</i> which separates the upper and -lower villages of Realejo was the scene of a great -flood in 1820 which severely damaged both villages. -Realejo Bajo, though not quite as picturesque as -the upper village, is well worth a visit, and its inhabitants -are justly proud of their Dragon Tree, -a rival to the one at Icod which may possibly -some day become as celebrated as the great tree -at Orotava.</p> - -<p>These two villages are great centres of the -<i lang="es" xml:lang="es">calado</i> or drawn-thread-work industry. Through -every open doorway may be seen women and girls -bending over the frames on which the work is -stretched. It is mostly of very inferior quality, -very coarsely worked and on poor material, and -it seems a pity that there is no supply of better<span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">[31]</span> -and finer work. Visitors get tired of the sight of -the endless stacks of bed-covers and tea-cloths -which are offered to them, and certainly the work -compares badly both in price and quality with that -done in the East.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">[32]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="III"><abbr title="3">III</abbr></h2> -</div> - -<p class="center">TENERIFFE (<em>continued</em>)</p> - - -<p><span class="smcap">A spell</span> of clear weather, late in February, made -us decide to make an expedition to the Cañadas, -which, except to those who are bent on mountain -climbing and always wish to get to the very top -of every height they see, appeals to the ordinary -traveller more than ascending the Peak itself. In -spite of the promise of fine weather the day before, -the morning broke cloudy and at dawn, 6 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span>, we -started full of doubts and misgivings as to what -the sunrise would bring. We had decided to drive -as far as the road would allow, as we had been -warned that we should find nine or ten hours’ mule riding -would be more than enough, in fact, our -friends were rather Job’s comforters. Some said -the expedition was so tiring that they had known -people to be ill for a week after undertaking it. -Others said it was never clear at the top, we must -be prepared to be soaked to the skin in the mist,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">[33]</span> -for the mules to stumble and probably roll head -over heels, in fact that strings of disasters were -certain to overtake us. Our mules were to join -us at Realejo Alto, about an hour’s drive from the -port, and there we determined we would decide -whether we would continue, or content ourselves -with a shorter expedition on a lower level.</p> - -<p>Sunrise did not improve the prospect, a heavy -bank of clouds lay over Pedro Gil, while ominous -drifts of light white clouds were gathering below -the Tigaia, and the prospect out to sea was not -more encouraging. The mules were late, in true -Spanish fashion, and we consulted a few weather-wise -looking inhabitants who gathered round our -carriage in the Plaza, shivering in the morning air, -with their <em>mantas</em> or blanket cloaks wrapped closely -round them. They looked pityingly at these mad -foreigners who had left their beds at such an hour -when they were not forced to—for the Spaniard is -no early riser—and were proposing to ride up into -the clouds. The optimistic members of the party -said: “It is nothing but a little morning mist,” -while the pessimist remarked, “Morning mists -make mid-day clouds in my experience.”</p> - -<p>The arrival of the mules put an end to further<span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">[34]</span> -discussion. The muleteers were full of hope and -confident that the clouds would disperse, or anyway -that we should get above the region of cloud -and find clear weather at the top, so though our -old blanket-coated friend murmured “<i lang="es" xml:lang="es">Pobrecitas</i>” -(poor things) below his breath, we made a start -armed with wraps for the wet and cold we were to -encounter. The clattering of the mules as we rode -up the steep village street brought many heads to -the windows; the little green shutters, or <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">postijos</i>, -were hastily pushed open to enable the crowd, -which appeared to inhabit every house, to catch a -sight of the “<i lang="es" xml:lang="es">Inglezes</i>.” Inquiry as to where we -were bound for, I noticed, generally brought an -exclamation of “Very bad weather” (“<i lang="es" xml:lang="es">Tiempo muy -malo</i>”), to the great indignation of our men, who -muttered, “Don’t say so!”</p> - -<p>The stony path from Realejo leads in a fairly -steep ascent to Palo Blanco, a little scattered -village of charcoal-burners’ huts at a height of -2200 feet. The wreaths of blue smoke from their -fires mingled with the mist, but already there was -a promise of better things to come, as the sun -was breaking through and the clouds were thinner. -The chant of the charcoal-burners is a sound one<span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">[35]</span> -gets accustomed to in these regions, and I never -quite knew whether it was merely a song which -cheered them on their downward path, or whether -it was to announce their approach and ask ascending -travellers to move out of their way, as the size of the -loads they carry on their heads makes them often -very difficult to pass. Presently two stalwart girls -came into sight, swinging along at a steady trot; -their bare feet apparently even more at home along -the stony track than the unshod feet of the mules, -as there is no stopping to pick their way, on they -go, only too anxious to reach their journey’s end, -and drop the crushing load off their heads. We -anxiously inquired as to the state of the weather -higher up, and to our great relief, with no hesitation, -came the answer: “<i lang="es" xml:lang="es">Muy claro</i>” (very clear), -and in a few minutes a puff of wind blew all the -mist away as if by magic, and there was a shout of -triumph from the men.</p> - -<p>Below lay the whole valley of Orotava, and we -were leaving the picturesque town of the Villa -Orotava far away below us on the left. The little -villages of La Perdoma, La Cruz Santa, and the -two Realejos, Alto and Bajo, were more immediately -below us, and far away in the distance<span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">[36]</span> -beyond the Puerto were to be seen Santa Ursula, -Sauzal and the little scattered town of Tacoronte. -Pedro Gil and all the range of mountains on the -left had large stretches of melting snow, shining -with a dazzling whiteness in the sun. It had been -an unusual winter for snow, so we were assured, -and it was rare to find it still lying at the end of -February, but we were glad it was so, for it certainly -added greatly to the beauty of the scene. -At the Monte Verde, the region of green things, -we called a halt, for the sake of man and beast, -and while our men refreshed themselves with substantial -slices of sour bread and the snow white -local cheese, made from goats’ milk, and our mules -enjoyed a few minutes’ breathing-space with loosened -girths, we took a short walk to look down into the -beautiful Barranco de la Laura. Here the trees -have as yet escaped destruction at the hands of -the charcoal-burners and the steep banks are still -clad with various kinds of native laurel mixed with -large bushes of the <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Erica arborea</i>, the heath which -covers all the region of the Monte Verde. The -almost complete deforestation by the charcoal-burners -is most deeply to be deplored, and it is -sad to think how far more beautiful all this region<span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">[37]</span> -must have been before it was stripped of its grand -pine and laurel trees. The authorities took no steps -to stop this wholesale destruction of the forests -until it was too late, and even now, though futile -regulations exist, no one takes the trouble to see -that they are enforced. The law now only allows -dead wood to be collected, but it is easy enough to -<em>make</em> dead wood—a man goes up and breaks down -branches of trees or <em>retama</em>, and a few weeks later -goes round and collects them as dead wood, and -so the law is evaded. As there is a never-ending -demand for charcoal, it being the only fuel the -Spaniard uses, so matters will continue until there -is nothing left to cut.</p> - -<p>No doubt we were on the same path as that by -which Humboldt had travelled when he visited -Teneriffe in 1799 and ascended the Peak. His -description of the vegetation shows how the ruthless -axe of the charcoal-burners has destroyed some of -the most beautiful forests in the world. Humboldt -had been obliged to abandon his travels in Italy in -1795 without visiting the volcanic districts of Naples -and Sicily, a knowledge of which was indispensable -for his geological studies. Four years later the -Spanish Court had given him a splendid welcome<span class="pagenum" id="Page_38">[38]</span> -and placed at his disposal the frigate <em>Pizarro</em> -for his voyage to the equinoctial regions of New -Spain. After a narrow escape of falling into the -hands of English privateers the Trade winds blew -him to the Canaries. The 21st day of June, 1799, -finds him on his way to the summit of the Peak -accompanied by his friend Bonpland, M. le Gros, -the secretary of the French Consulate in Santa -Cruz, and the English gardener of Durasno (the -botanical gardens of Orotava). The day appears -not to have been happily chosen. The top of the -Peak was covered in thick clouds from sunrise up -to ten o’clock. Only one path leads from Villa -Orotava through the <em>retama</em> plains and the <em>mal pays</em>. -“This is the way that all visitors must follow who -are only a short time in Teneriffe. When people -go up the Peak” (these are Humboldt’s words) -“it is the same as when the Chamounix or Etna are -visited, people must follow the guides and one only -succeeds in seeing what other travellers have seen -and described.” Like others he was much struck -by the contrast of the vegetation in these parts of -Teneriffe and in that surrounding Santa Cruz, -where he had landed. “A narrow stony path leads -through Chestnut woods to regions full of Laurel<span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">[39]</span> -and Heath, and then further to the Dornajito -springs; this being the only fountain that is met with -all the way to the Peak. We stopped to take our -provision of water under a solitary fir tree. This -station is known in the country by the name of -Pino del Dornajito. Above this region of arborescent -heaths called Monte Verde, is the region of -ferns. Nowhere in the temperate zones have I -seen such an abundance of the <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Pteris</i>, <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Blechium</i> and -<i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Asplenium</i>; yet none of these plants have the -stateliness of the arborescent ferns which, at the -height of 500 and 600 <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">toises</i>, form the principal -ornaments of equinoctial America. The root of -the <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Pteris aquilina</i> serves the inhabitants of Palma -and Gomera for food. They grind it to powder, -and mix it with a quantity of barley meal. This -composition when boiled is called <em>gofio</em>; the use of -so homely an aliment is proof of the extreme -poverty of the lower classes of people in the -Canary Islands. (Gofio is still largely consumed).</p> - -<p>“The region of ferns is succeeded by a wood of -juniper trees and firs, which has suffered greatly -from the violence of hurricanes (not one is now -left). In this place, mentioned by some travellers -under the name of Caraveles, Mr. Eden states that<span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">[40]</span> -in the year 1705, he saw little flames, which -according to the doctrines of the naturalists of his -time, he attributes to sulphurous exhalations -igniting spontaneously. We continued to ascend, -till we came to the rock of La Gayta and to the -Portillo: traversing this narrow pass between two -basaltic hills, we entered the great plain of -<em>Spartium</em>.... We spent two hours in crossing -the Llano del Retama, which appears like an -immense sea of white sand. In the midst of the -plain are tufts of the <em>retama</em>, which is the <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Spartium -nubigenum</i> of Aiton. M. de Martinière wished to -introduce this beautiful shrub into Languedoc, -where firewood is very scarce. It grows to a -height of 9 ft. and is loaded with odoriferous -flowers, with which the goat-hunters who met -in our road had decorated their hats. The goats -of the Peak, which are of a dark brown colour, -are reckoned delicious food; they browse on the -<i lang="la" xml:lang="la">spartium</i> and have run wild in the deserts from -time immemorial.” Spending the night on the -mountain, though in mid summer, the travellers -complained bitterly of the cold, having neither -tents nor rugs. At 3 <span class="allsmcap">A.M.</span> they started by torch-light -to make the final ascent to the summit of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">[41]</span> -Piton. “A strong northerly wind chased the -clouds, the moon at intervals shooting through -the vapours exposed its disk on a firmament -of the darkest blues, and the view of the volcano -threw a majestic character over the nocturnal -scenery.</p> - -<p>“Sometimes the peak was entirely hidden from -our eyes by the fog, at other times it broke upon -us in terrific proximity: and like an enormous -pyramid, threw its shadow over the clouds rolling -at our feet.”</p> - -<p>Scaling the mountain on the north-eastern side, -in two hours the party reached Alta Vista, following -the same course as travellers of to-day, passing -over the <em>mal pays</em> (a region devoid of vegetable -mould and covered with fragments of lava) and -visiting the ice caves. After the Laurels follow -ferns of great size, Junipers and Pines (not one is -now left of either) all the way up to the Portillo.</p> - -<p>The Portillo was still towering far above us, -the gateway of the range, as its name implies, -through which we had to pass to get to the -Cañadas, and the stony path, though a well defined -one, meanders on, not at a very steep incline, past -rough hillocks where here and there pumice stone<span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">[42]</span> -appears. Gradually the heath, which was just -coming into flower, and in a few weeks would be -covered with its rather insignificant little white or -pinkish blossoms, becomes interspersed with <em>codeso</em>, -<i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Adenocarpus viscosus</i>, with its peculiar flat spreading -growth and tiny leaves of a soft bluish-green. -During all the long ascent there is no -sign of the Peak; the path lies so immediately -beneath the dividing range that it is not until the -Portillo itself is reached, that it suddenly bursts -into view. It is a grand scene which lies before -one. The foreground of rocky ground is interspersed -with great bushes of <em>retama</em> (<i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Sparto-cytisus -nubigens</i>), a species of broom said to be peculiar to -this district. In growth it somewhat resembles -<i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Spartium junceum</i>, commonly known in England as -Spanish broom, but is more stubby and perhaps not -so graceful. When in flower in May its sweet scent -is so powerful that not only does it fill the whole -air in this mountain district, but sailors are said to -smell it miles out at sea. Our guides told us some -bushes had white flowers and others white tinged -with rose colour. At this season large patches of -thawing snow take the place of flowers, but the -bushes of <em>retama</em> can be seen piercing the Peak’s<span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">[43]</span> -dense mantle of snow up to a height of quite -10,000 feet.</p> - -<p>I had been told that all the beauty of the Peak -was lost when seen from so near, that the beautiful -pyramid of rock and snow which rises some 12,000 -feet and stands towering above the valley of Orotava -would look like a mere hill when seen rising from -the moat of fine sand, which is what the Cañadas -most resemble, that in fact, all enchantment would -be gone. One writer even has gone so far as to -call the Peak an ugly cinder-heap when seen from -the Cañadas on the other side, and to say they found -themselves “in a lifeless, soundless world, burnt -out, dead, the very abomination of desolation, -where once raged a fiery inferno over a lake of -boiling lava.” I cannot help thinking that the -writer of the above must have been travelling under -adverse circumstances; it is curious how being overtired, -wet and cold will make one find no beauty -in a scene, which others, who like ourselves have -seen it in glorious sunshine, will describe as one of -the most beautiful sights in the world.</p> - -<p>The path just beyond the Portillo (7150 ft.) divides, -and those who propose to ascend the Peak follow -the track up the side of the Montaña Blanca, a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">[44]</span> -snow-clad hump at the east base of the Peak. The -cone itself is locally called Lomo Tiezo, and rises -at an angle of 28°. The stone hut at the Alta Vista -(10,702 ft.) is where many a weary traveller spends -the night, before ascending the final 1400 ft. on -foot, as the mules are left at the hut. No doubt in -clear weather the traveller is well repaid, and the -scene is well described as follows by Mr. Samler -Brown: “Those who cannot ascend the mountain -would probably greatly help their imagination by -looking at a lunar crater through a telescope. -The surroundings are the essence of desolation and -ruin. On one side the rounded summit of the -Montaña Blanca, on the other the threatening craters -of the Pico Viejo and of Chahorra, the latter three-quarters -of a mile in diameter, 10,500 ft. high, once -a boiling cauldron and even now ready to burst -into furious life at any moment. Below, the once -circular basin of the Cañadas, seamed with streams -of lava and surrounded by its jagged and many-coloured -walls. Around, a number of volcanoes, -standing, as Piazzi Smyth says, like fish on their -tails with widely gaping mouths. On the upper -slopes the pine forests and far beneath the sea, -with the Six Satellites (the islands of La Palma,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_45">[45]</span> -Gomera, Hierro, Grand Canary, Fuerteventura and -Lanzarote) floating in the distance, the enormous -horizon giving the impression that the looker-on is -in a sort of well rather than on a height which, -taken in relation to its surroundings is second to -none in the world.”</p> - -<p>To attain the rude little shrine at the Fortaleza -where a rest was to be taken, the path leads down -into the Cañadas itself. A stretch of fine yellow -sand, like the sand of the Sahara, thoroughly sun-baked, -proved too great a temptation to one of the -mules, and regardless of its rider and luncheon-basket, -it enjoyed a good roll in the soft warm bed—luckily -with no untoward results. After a welcome -rest in the grateful shade of a <em>retama</em> bush, -we turned our backs to the Peak and left this -beautiful solitary scene. The island of La Palma -seemed to be floating in the sky; the line of the -horizon dividing sea and sky appeared to be all out -of place, in fact it seems to be a weird uncanny -world in these parts, and though to-day the Peak -may be standing calm and serene, bathed in sunshine -and clad in snow, still it reminds one of the -death and destruction it has caused by fire and -flood, and who knows when it may some day awake<span class="pagenum" id="Page_46">[46]</span> -from its long sleep and shake the whole island to -its foundations.</p> - -<p>It is an accepted theory that the Cañadas themselves -were originally an immense crater, the second -largest in the world, and during a period of activity -they threw up the Peak which became the new -crater. Probably during this process the Cañadas -themselves subsided, and left the wall of rock -which appears to form a perfect protection to the -Valley of Orotava in case the Peak should some -day again spout forth burning lava.</p> - -<p>It was in the early winter of 1909 that the -inhabitants of Teneriffe were reminded that their -volcano was not dead. For nearly a year previously -frequent slight shocks of earthquake had warned -geological experts that some upheaval was to be -expected, which in November were followed by -loud detonations, each one shaking the houses in -Orotava. One of the inhabitants has described the -sensation as one of curious instability, that the -houses felt as though they were built on a foundation -of jelly. An entirely new crater opened twenty -miles from the Peak, and though so far distant -from Orotava, the flashes of light were distinctly -visible above the lower mountains on the south<span class="pagenum" id="Page_47">[47]</span> -side of the Peak. Very little damage seems to -have been done, as luckily there were no villages -near enough to be annihilated by the streams of -lava, but most exaggerated reports of the eruptions -were circulated in Europe, and it is even said that a -message was sent to the Spanish Government asking -for men-of-war to be sent at once to take away the -inhabitants as the island was sinking into the sea! -Many geological authorities have given it as their -opinion that it is most unlikely that there will be -another eruption in less than another hundred -years, which is consoling and reassuring.</p> - -<p>As the paths were dry we were able to return -by a different route, which though rather longer is -far more beautiful, and to those who prefer walking -to riding downhill is highly to be recommended. -The mules appear to be more sure-footed in the -stony paths and once the region of the Monte -Verde begins again and the path is smooth their -unshod feet get no hold, and in wet weather the -path is a mere “mud slide” and should not be -attempted. It was a beautiful walk along the -crest of the range; the Peak was lost to sight but -the valley below lay filled with drifting patches of -light mist, through which could just be seen the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_48">[48]</span> -Villa bathed in the afternoon light, and above, all -was clear. Pedro Gil, and the Montaña Blanca -beyond, glowed in a red light, and right away in -the distance the mountains round La Laguna were -just visible.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_063.jpg" alt="" width="521" height="350" /> -<p class="caption center p90">ENTRANCE TO A SPANISH VILLA</p> -</div> - -<p>From La Corona the view is perhaps at its best. -On the left the pine woods above Icod de los Vinos -stretch away into the distance to the extreme west -of the island, and on the right the valley of Orotava -lies spread out like a map. Just below La Corona -one gets back into cultivated regions and the sight -of a country-woman with the usual burden on her -head reminded us how many hours it was since we -had seen a sign of life—not, indeed, since we had -passed the two charcoal-burners in the early morning -who had given such welcome news of clear -weather ahead. Icod el Alto, with the roughest -village street it has ever been my fate to encounter, -was soon left behind, and the mules trudged -wearily down as steep a path as we had met with -anywhere, to Realejo Bajo and back to civilisation -and the prosaic. A rickety little victoria with -three lean but gallant little horses took us home -exactly twelve hours from the time we started. -We had not meant to break records, and on<span class="pagenum" id="Page_49">[49]</span> -the homeward path had certainly taken things -easily—the ride from Realejo Alto to the Cañadas -was exactly four hours, one hour’s rest, five hours’ -ride down, partly walking, and two hours’ driving—and -we were neither wet through nor so tired that -we were ill for a week. I had heard a good -description of mule riding by some one who was -consulted as to whether it was very tiring, and -his answer was, <span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">[50]</span>“It is not <em>riding</em>, you just sit, and -leave the rest to the mule and Providence!”</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="IV"><abbr title="4">IV</abbr></h2> -</div> - -<p class="center">TENERIFFE (<em>continued</em>)</p> - - -<p><span class="smcap">I know</span> nothing more enjoyable than a ramble -along the coast or up one of the many <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">barrancos</i> -in the neighbourhood of Orotava. I had always -heard that the Canary Islands were rich in native -plants, but I hardly realised that almost each -separate <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">barranco</i> (literally meaning a mountain -torrent, but now applied to any ravine or deep -gully) would have its own special treasures, and -that the cliffs by the sea are so rich in vegetation -that in many places they look like the most perfect -examples of rock gardens.</p> - -<p>One of the best walks is up the steep little path, -hardly more than a goats’ track, which leads from -the Barranco Martinez to the cliffs below the -terrace of La Paz. It is possible to wander for -miles in this direction; occasionally, it is true, the -spell of enchantment in the way of plant collecting -will be broken by the path suddenly coming to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_51">[51]</span> -vast stretches of banana cultivation, but luckily -there is still a good deal of unbroken ground, and -the path leads back again to the verge of the cliffs -and inaccessible places. There are so many plants -that will be strangers to the newcomer that it is -hard to know which to mention and which to leave -out, as far be it from me to pretend to give a full -list of Canary plants, and the longer I stayed in -the islands the less surprised I was to hear that -a learned botanist had been four years collecting -material for a full and complete account of the -flora of the Canaries, and that still his work was -not completed. I think the first place must be -given to <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Euphorbia canariensis</i> as one of the most -conspicuous and ornamental of the cliff plants. -Great clumps of this “candelabra plant,” as the -English have christened it (or <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">cardon</i> in Spanish), -are so characteristic that it will always be associated -in my mind with the cliffs of Teneriffe. Its -great square fluted columns may rise to 10 or -12 ft. leafless, but bearing near the top a reddish -fruit or flower, and having vicious-looking hooks -down the edges of its stout branches. If you gash -one of the columns with a knife out spurts its -sticky, milky juice, which if not really poisonous is<span class="pagenum" id="Page_52">[52]</span> -a strong irritant, and there is a legend that the -Guanches used it to stupefy fish, but precisely in -what manner I never ascertained. One feature of -the cliff vegetation cannot fail to strike every one, -and that is the soft bluish-green of nearly all the -plants. The prickly pears, as both the Cactuses -are commonly called, <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Opuntia Dillenii</i> and <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Opuntia -coccinellifera</i>—the latter especially appears to have -been introduced for the cultivation of cochineal, -and has remained as a weed—the sow thistles -(<em>Sonchus</em>), <em>Kleinias</em>, <em>Artemerias</em>, and nearly all the -succulent plants have grey-green colouring, which -is in such beautiful contrast to the dark cliffs. The -overhanging cliffs just below La Paz are of most -beautiful formation and colouring, in places a deep -brick red colour, owing to a deposit of yellow -ochre, and in others a tawny yellow, and so deep -are the hollows in the volcanic rocks and the air -chambers exposed by the inroads of the sea that -they have been made into dwellings. Apparently -more than one family and all their goods and chattels -are ensconced in the recesses of the rocks, and here -they live a real open air life, free from house tax or -any burden in the way of repairs to their dwellings. -The best of water-supplies is close at hand, indeed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_53">[53]</span> -the stream which gushes out of the rock provides -drinking water for the whole town, and when I was -told that one of these cave-dwellers was a harmless -lunatic, I thought there was a good deal of method -in his madness when I remembered the vile-smelling, -stuffy cottages that most of the poor inhabit.</p> - -<p><em>Senecio Kleinia</em>, or <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Kleinia neriifolia</i>, has the -habit of a miniature dragon tree, its gouty-forked -branches having tufts of blue-green leaves. It -remains a shrubby plant about 5 ft. high, and -<i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Plocama pendula</i>, with its light weeping form -and lovely green colour, makes a charming contrast -to the stiff growth of the Euphorbias and -Kleinias, and all three are so thoroughly typical of -the cliff vegetation that they will probably be the -first to attract the attention of the newcomer. -<i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Artemesia canariensis</i> (Canary wormwood) is easily -recognised by its whitish leaf and very strong -aromatic scent, which is far from pleasant when -crushed. The native Lavender and various Chrysanthemums, -the parents probably of the so-called -“Paris Daisy” in cultivation, are common weeds, -but in March and April, the months of wild -flowers, many more interesting treasures may be -found, and while sitting on the rocks, within reach<span class="pagenum" id="Page_54">[54]</span> -of one’s hand a bunch of flowers or low-growing -shrubs may be collected, all probably new to a -traveller from northern climes. On the shady -damp side of many a miniature <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">barranco</i> or -crevasse will be seen nestling in the shadow of the -rocks which protect them from the salt spray, -broad patches of the wild <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Cineraria tussilaginis</i>, in -every shade of soft lilac, prettier by far than any -of the cultivated hybrids. In one inaccessible spot -they were interspersed with a yellow Ranunculus, -and close by was one of the many sow-thistles -with its showy yellow flowers. On some of the -steep slopes, too steep happily for the cultivation -of the everlasting banana, the great flower stems -of the <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Agave rigida</i> rear their proud heads twenty -feet in the air, and are the remains of a plantation -of these agaves, which was originally made with a -view to cultivating them in order to extract fibre -from their leaves. This variety is the true <em>Sisal</em> from -the Bahamas, botanically known as var. <em>sisalana</em>, -and the rapidity with which it increases once the -plants are old enough to bloom may be imagined -when it is said that from one single flower-spike -will drop 2000 new plants. Like many other -agricultural experiments in this island, fibre extrac<span class="pagenum" id="Page_55">[55]</span>tion -was abandoned, but I heard of some attempt -being made to revive it in the arid island of -Lanzarote. Among the beautiful strata of rock, -besides the Euphorbias and prickly pears, are to be -found many low-growing spreading bushes of the -succulent, <em>Salsola oppositæ folia</em>, <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Ruba fruticosa</i>, -a white-flowering little <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Micromeria</i>, <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Spergularia -fimbriata</i>, whose bright mauve flowers would be -considered a most valuable addition to a so-called -“rock garden” in England, and the low-growing -violet-blue <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Echium violaceum</i>, which is a dreaded -weed in Australia, where the seed was probably -accidentally introduced. I often used to think -when rambling over this natural rock garden -what lessons might be learnt by studying rock -formation before attempting to lay out in England -one of those feeble imitations of Nature which -usually result in lamentable failure, not only in -failure to please the eye, but failure to cultivate -the plants through not providing them with suitable -positions.</p> - -<p>Those who have a steady head and do not mind -scrambling down steep narrow paths can get right -down on to the rugged rocks, and when a high sea -is running the spray dashes high on to the cliffs, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_56">[56]</span> -one sits in a haze of white mist wondering how any -vegetation can stand the salt spray. The small -lilac <em>Statice pectinata</em> grew and flourished in -such surroundings, reminding one that in England -statices are generally called Sea Lavenders because -the native English Statice, <em>S. Limonium</em>, grows on -marsh land. The miniature-flowered heath-like -<i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Frankenia ericifolia</i> was also at home amid the -spray.</p> - -<p>As the path in our wanderings frequently -led us back among large farms or <em>fincas</em> entirely -devoted to the cultivation of bananas, it may be -of interest to mention something of the history of -this most lucrative industry. It used to go to my -heart to see charming pieces of broken ground -being ruthlessly stripped of their natural vegetation, -old gnarled and twisted fig trees cut down, -and an army of men set to work to break up the -soil ready for planting. In most cases the top soil -is removed, and the soft earth-stone underneath -is broken up and the top soil replaced; but the -system appears to differ according to the nature of -the soil. Walls are constructed for the protection -of the plants, or in order to terrace the land and -get the level necessary for the system of irrigation<span class="pagenum" id="Page_57">[57]</span> -concrete channels being made for the water. So -the initial outlay of bringing land into cultivation -is heavy, but then the reward reaped is almost -beyond the dreams of avarice. Good land with -water used to fetch over £40 an acre per -annum—indeed, I have even heard of as high a -price as £60 having been obtained; that, even -if true, was exceptional; but perhaps nowhere else -in the world is land let for agricultural purposes -at such a rate. Land, however good, which was -not irrigated, was only fetching £4 to £6 an acre, -and though I was never able to ascertain exactly -how much per acre the water would cost, there is -no doubt the rate is a very high one; so the rent is -not all profit to the landlord. The life of a banana -plantation averages from twelve to fourteen years, -but for eighteen months no return is obtained, except -from the potato crop which is planted in between -the young plants, or, rather, the old stumps, from -which a young sucker will spring up and bear fruit. -That shoot will again be cut down, and by that -time several suckers will spring up, about three -being left as a rule on a plant, which will each bear -fruit in nine or ten months. An acre of land in -full bearing will produce over 2000 bunches, which<span class="pagenum" id="Page_58">[58]</span> -have to be gathered, carted, and carefully packed -for export.</p> - -<p>Much of the labour on the plantations is done by -women, and long processions of them make their -way to the packing-houses, bearing the immense -bunches of green fruit on their heads. Bare-footed, -sturdy, handsome girls many of them, with curiously -deep voices in which they chant with a sing-song -note as they trip along with a splendid upright -carriage. Unfortunately their song is instantly -broken when they catch sight of a foreigner, and a -chorus of <em>Peni, peni, peni</em>, either getting louder and -louder if no attention is paid to the demand, or -turned to a bleating whine for <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">una perrita</i> (a little -penny), accompanied frequently by a volley of -stones. Foreigners complain bitterly of this begging, -but they have brought it on themselves by -throwing coins to children as they drive along the -road. Or when a crowd of urchins collects, as if to -reward them for their bright black eyes and pretty -faces, which many of them have, a shower of -coppers is thrown to them, so it is small wonder -that a race has grown up whose earliest instinct -teaches it to beg, and I feel sure that <em>Peni</em> is often -the first word that a toddling child is taught.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_59">[59]</span></p> - -<p>The packing-houses are also a blot on the landscape, -sometimes great unsightly sheds tacked on -to what has once been the summer residence of an -old Spanish family, and here crowds of men, women -and girls are wrapping up the bunches, which are -shipped in wooden crates by the thousand, and tens -or even hundreds of thousands, I should imagine, -judging by the endless procession of carts drawn by -immense bullocks which wend their way down to -the mole, when a steamer comes in to take a -whole cargo of the fruit to England. I used often -to wonder that it was possible to find such an unlimited -market for bananas when one thinks that -Grand Canary ships as many as Teneriffe, and they -have a formidable rival also in Jamaica. It is to be -hoped that the trade will not be overdone and the -markets fall, or that a blight will not come on the -plants, and that the Islands will not again suffer -from the ruin which followed the cochineal boom. -Bananas are said to have been introduced to the -Canaries from the Gulf of Guinea, but that was -not their real home, and no one knows how they -were originally brought from the Far East. From -the Canaries they were sent to the West Indian -Islands in 1516, and on from there to Central<span class="pagenum" id="Page_60">[60]</span> -America. Oviedo, writing about the natural history -of the West Indies, mentions having seen bananas -growing in the orchard of a monastery at Las -Palmas in 1520. The botanical name of the -Banana, <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Musa sapientum</i>, was given in the old -belief that it was the fruit of the tree of knowledge -of good and evil. The variety now under cultivation -is <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Musa Cavendishii</i>, the least tropical and -most suitable for cool climates. Locally they are -called <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">Plátano</i>, a corruption of the original name -<i lang="es" xml:lang="es">Plántano</i>, from plantain in English, under which -name they are always known in the East. Though -the plant has been known in the islands for nearly -four centuries, it was of no use as a crop before the -water which is so absolutely necessary for its cultivation -was brought down from the mountains. -Some residents—those, I noticed, who did not own -banana plantations—lament that the excessive -irrigation has made the climate of Orotava damper -than it used to be, but if the cultivation has brought -about a climatic change, it has also brought about -a financial change in the fortunes of the farmers -and landlords, and many an enterprising man, who -a few years ago was just a working <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">medianero</i>, -satisfied with his potato or tomato crop, has<span class="pagenum" id="Page_61">[61]</span> -little by little built up a very substantial -fortune.</p> - -<p>A <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">medianero</i> is a tenant or bailiff who cultivates -the ground and receives a share of the profits. The -contract between the landlord and the <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">medianero</i> -varies a good deal on different estates, and the -system is rather complicated, but as a rule he -provides his tenant with a house rent free, pays for -half the seed of a cereal, potato or vegetable crop, -but none of the labour for cultivation, and the profits -made on the crop are equally divided. Sometimes, -especially in the case of banana cultivation, the -proprietor pays for half the labour of planting and -gathering the crop for sending to market, but never -for any of the intermediate labour. The landlord -provides the all-important water-supply, but all the -labour of irrigation has to be done by the <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">medianero</i>, -who also pays a share of taxes. The loss of a crop -through blight or a storm is equally shared. The -trouble of the system, which in some ways seems -a good one, must come in over the division of the -profits, as either the honesty of the tenant must be -implicitly trusted or an overseer must be present -when the crop is gathered to see that the landlord -gets his true <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">medias</i>.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_62">[62]</span></p> - -<p>At a higher altitude, some 800 or 900 ft. below -the village of Santa Ursula, which is justly famous -for its groups of Canary Palms, is a large estate, -as yet uncultivated from lack of sufficient water. -Besides the natural vegetation which stands the -summer drought, the owner has collected together -many drought-resisting plants, among which are -several natives of Australia. The Golden Wattle -seemed quite at home, though the trees have not yet -attained the size they would in their native country, -and small groves of <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Eucalyptus Lehmanni</i>, with -their curious fluffy balls of flower, gave welcome -shade, and Australian salt bushes were being grown -as an experiment with a view to providing a new -fodder plant. The stony ground was covered -with a low-growing <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Cystus monspeliensis</i> closely -resembling the variety much prized in England as -<i lang="la" xml:lang="la">florentina</i>, its white blossoms covering the bushes. -Many of the plants were the same as on the lower -cliffs, but <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Convolvulus scoparius</i> I was much interested -to find growing in its natural state. The -growth so closely resembles that of the <em>retama</em> -that it might easily be mistaken for it; the natives -call it <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">Leña Noel</i> or <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">Palo de rosa</i>, but the flower -is like a miniature convolvulus growing all down<span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">[63]</span> -the stems. Both this and <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Convolvulus floridus</i> -are known as Canary Rosewoods, and <em>scoparius</em> has -become rare owing to the digging of its roots from -which the oil was distilled. Dr. Morris of Kew -was a great admirer of <em>C. floridus</em>, and describes -<i lang="es" xml:lang="es">guadil</i>, as it is known locally, as “a most attractive -plant. When in flower it appears as if covered -with newly fallen snow. It is one of the few native -plants which awaken the enthusiasm of the local -residents.” Many Sempervivums were to be seen, -but <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">S. Lindleyi</i> is most curious. Its fleshy transparent -leaves grow in clusters and it has received -the local and very apt name of Guanche grapes. -Little <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Scylla iridifolium</i> grew everywhere, and one -could have spent days collecting treasures, and I -felt torn in two between admiring the splendid -views which the headland commands, and trying -to add something to my most insufficient knowledge -of the native plants. Near the house in cultivated -ground were to be seen the two most -ornamental native brooms, <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Genista rhodorrhizoides</i> -and <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Cytisus filipes</i>; both are of drooping -habit, with very sweet-scented white flowers, -and should be more widely cultivated. The -former very closely resembles the variety <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">mono-sperma</i>, <span class="pagenum" id="Page_64">[64]</span> -which grows near the Mediterranean -coast.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_080.jpg" alt="" width="276" height="550" /> -<p class="caption center p90">STATICES AND PRIDE OF TENERIFFE</p> -</div> - -<p>Here too were to be seen some splendid clumps -of the true native <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Statice arborea</i> which for many -years gave rise to such botanical discussions. For -a long time this variety was lost and a hybrid of -<i lang="la" xml:lang="la">arborea</i> and <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">macrophylla</i> did duty for the true -variety, which was definitely pronounced extinct. -It was, I believe, Francis Messon who first collected -this plant in Teneriffe on his way to the Cape in -1773, and describes its locality as “on a rock in -the sea opposite the fountain which waters Port -Orotava.” These rocks were the Burgado Cove to -the east of Rambla del Castro, and it was again -found growing in this neighbourhood in 1829 by -Berthelot and Webb, who describe it in their -admirable book on the “Histoire Naturelle des Iles -Canaries.” Before this date another French -botanist, Broussonet, had “discovered” the plant -a few miles further along the coast, at Dauté -near Garachico, and after its complete disappearance -from the Burgado rocks, owing probably to -goats having destroyed it, it was re-discovered in -the Dauté locality a few years ago, through the -untiring efforts and perseverance of Dr. George -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_65">[65]</span>Perez. Having heard of the plants growing on -inaccessible rocks, he got a shepherd to secure the -specimens for him, the plants being hauled up by -means of ropes to which hooks were attached, and -it was no doubt thanks to their position that even -goats were not able to destroy them. So <em>Statice -arborea</em> was rescued and is once more in cultivation, -and one of the most ornamental and effective -garden plants it is possible to see. The loose -panicles of deep purple flower-heads last for weeks -in perfection, and are so freely produced that even -one plant of it seems to give colour to a whole -garden. The statices endemic to the various islands -form quite a long list and are all ornamental, and -prove the fact I have already mentioned of the -extremely restricted area in which many native -plants are found. The true <em>Statice macrophylla</em> -finds a home in only a small area on the north-east -coast of Teneriffe and is another very showy -species. <em>Statice frutescens</em> is very similar to <em>Statice -arborea</em>, but is of much smaller stature; its native -home appears to be—or to have been—on the -rocky promontory of El Freyle, to the extreme -west of Teneriffe.</p> - -<p>From a single high rock, known as Tabucho,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_66">[66]</span> -near Marca, also on the west coast, came in 1907 -a new variety, at first thought to be <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Preauxii</i>, but -it was eventually found to be an entirely new -contribution and was named <em>Statice Perezii</em> after -Dr. Perez who discovered the plant and sent the -specimen to Kew.</p> - -<p>The island of Gomera contributes the very blue-flowered -<i lang="la" xml:lang="la">S. brassicifolia</i>, its winged stems making -it easy to recognise, and from Lanzarote comes -<i lang="la" xml:lang="la">S. puberula</i>, a more dwarf kind, very varying in -colour. These appear to comprise the statices -best known now in cultivation, though there are -several other less interesting varieties.</p> - -<p>Here, at Santa Ursula, great interest is also -taken in the Echiums, another race of Canary -plants. <em>Echium simplex</em> must be accorded first -place, as it is commonly called Pride of Teneriffe; -it bears one immense spike of white flowers, and -like the aloe, after this one supreme effort the -plant dies. The seed luckily germinates freely. -From the island of La Palma had come seed of -<em>Echium pininana</em>, and tales of a deep blue flower-spike -said to rise from 9 ft. to 15 ft. in the air, and -though the plants were only one year old some -showed promise of flowering. The pinkish<span class="pagenum" id="Page_67">[67]</span> -flowered <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">E. auberianum</i>, like so many of the -statices, has made its home in almost inaccessible -places among the rocks on the Fortaleza at a -height of some 7000 ft., close to the Cañadas.</p> - -<p>Over the walls were hanging masses of <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Lotus -Berthelotii</i>, one of the native plants I most -admired. Its long trails of soft grey leaves hang -in garlands and in spring come the deep red -flowers. The plant is known locally as <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">Pico de -paloma</i> (pigeon’s beak) and I found one seldom -gave it its true botanical name, which does not seem -to fit it. Here again is another plant whose native -lair has been lost. A stretch of country between -Villa Orotava and La Florida is known to have been -its home, but for years past botanists have hunted -for it in vain. A variety which differed slightly -found a home in the Pinar above Arico, but that -equally has disappeared.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_68">[68]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="V"><abbr title="5">V</abbr></h2> -</div> - -<p class="center">TENERIFFE (<em>continued</em>)</p> - - -<p><span class="smcap">To</span> the east of the town lies a district where, in old -days, the Spaniards built their villas, as summer -residences, in which to escape from the heat and -dust of the town. In those days vineyards and -cornfields took the place of banana plantations and -potato fields, and near some of the villas are to -be seen to this day the old wine-presses with their -gigantic beams made of the wood of the native -pine. These presses have long been silent and idle, -as disease ravaged the vines some fifty years ago, -and “Canary sack” is no longer stored in the vast -cellars of the old houses.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_087.jpg" alt="" width="381" height="550" /> -<p class="caption center p90">LA PAZ</p> -</div> - -<p>One of these old villas became our temporary -home, so I am to be forgiven for placing it first on -the list. A steep cobbled lane leads up from the -Puerto, bordered with plane trees, and here and -there great clumps of oleanders, to the plateau -some 300 feet above the sea on which stands the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_69">[69]</span> -house of La Paz. The outer gate is guarded by -the little chapel of Santo Amaro, and once a year -the clanging bell summons worshippers to Mass -and to escort the figure of the patron saint, amid -incense and rockets, down the long cypress avenue -to the terrace above the sea.</p> - -<p>Each side of the faded green wooden doorway, -two giant cypresses stand like sentries to guard the -gate, through which may be seen, on one side, a -row of flaunting red poinsettias, waving their -gaudy blossoms above a low myrtle hedge, and on -the other side the high garden wall is draped with -orange creepers. At right angles to this path -facing the entrance to the house, a long avenue of -splendid lance-like cypresses rises above a thick -hedge of myrtles whose trunks speak for themselves -of their immense age. A round flight of -low steps leads to the forecourt, and the tiny inner -court is guarded by yet another faded green -doorway. Here flowers run riot in a little garden -where prim box hedges edge the paved walks. On a -flagged terrace stands the “House of Peace,” facing -the Atlantic, and from the solid green panelled door -there is an unbroken view down the long, straight -avenue to the dazzling, dancing sea below.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_70">[70]</span></p> - -<p>Over the door is a weather-stained coat-of-arms, -and above, again, on a piece of soft green scroll-work, -is the Latin motto “<span class="allsmcap">HIC EST REQUIES MEA</span>,” -as here to his house of rest came the original owner, -to rest from his work in the town.</p> - -<p>Very little seems to be known of the history of -La Paz, but it seems fairly certain that it was -built by an Irish family of the name of Walsh; -who, with many of their fellow countrymen, emigrated -to the Canaries after the siege of Limerick, -and in the church of N. S. de la Peña de Francia, -in the town, the tomb of Bernardo Walsh, who died -in 1721, bears the same arms as those which are -carved above the door. The family, who no doubt -entered into business in the town, appear to have -found a foreign name inconvenient and changed -it into Valois, as Bernardo Walsh is described as -alias Valois. The two Irish families of Walsh and -Cologan intermarried at some time, and the -property passed to the Cologans, who assumed -the Spanish title of Marquez de la Candia; to this -family La Paz still belongs, though it is many -years since they have lived there, and the present -owner, who lives in Spain, has never even seen the -property.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_71">[71]</span></p> - -<p>The traveller Humboldt is said to have been a -guest at La Paz for a few days, which has caused -many Germans to call it “Humboldt’s villa,” and -even to go so far as to say that he built it, though -he only paid a flying visit of four days to Orotava in -1799. From the account of his visit in his “Personal -Narrative” it appears doubtful as to whether he -stayed at La Paz or at the house belonging to the -Cologan family, in Villa Orotava. Alluding to his -short stay, he remarks: “It is impossible to speak -of Orotava without recalling to the remembrance of -the friends of science, the name of Don Bernardo -Cologan, whose house at all times was open to -travellers of every nation. We could have wished -to have sojourned for some time in Don Bernardo’s -house, and to have visited with him the charming -scenery of San Juan de la Rambla. But on a -voyage such as we had undertaken, the present is -but little enjoyed. Continually haunted by the -fear of not executing the design of to-morrow we -live in perpetual uneasiness....” Further on -he says: “Don Cologan’s family has a country -house nearer the coast than that I have just mentioned. -This house, called La Paz, is connected -with a circumstance that rendered it peculiarly<span class="pagenum" id="Page_72">[72]</span> -interesting to us. M. le Borde, whose death we -deplored, was its inmate during his last visit to the -Canary Islands. It was in a neighbouring plain -that he measured the base, by which he determined -the height of the Peak.” The house has no pretensions -to any great architectural beauty, but has -an air of peace and stateliness which the hand of -time gives to many a house of far less imposing -dimensions than its modern neighbour.</p> - -<p>On one side of the house a few steps lead down -to the walled garden, a large square outlined and -traversed by vine-clad pergolas, which again form -four more squares. In the centre of one an -immense pine tree shelters a round water basin, -where papyrus and arums make a welcome shelter -for the tiny green frogs. One feature of these old -Spanish gardens might well be copied in other -lands; a low double plaster wall some two feet -thick, called locally a <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">poyo</i>, makes a charming -border for plants: geraniums, verbenas, stocks, -carnations, poppies, and the hanging <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">Pico de -paloma</i>, all look their best grown in this way, and -at a lower level a wide low seat ran along the -walls. The beds were edged with sweet-smelling -geranium, the white-leafed salvia, a close-growing<span class="pagenum" id="Page_73">[73]</span> -thyme, or box, all kept clipped in neat, compact -hedges. Some of the garden has now, alas! -been given over to a more profitable use than -that of growing flowers, and a potato crop is -succeeded in summer by maize, but enough -remains for a wealth of flowering trees, shrubs, -creepers and plants. The brilliant orange <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Bignonia -venusta</i> covers a long stretch of the pergola, drapes -the garden wall and climbs up to the flat roof-top -of one of the detached wings of the house. -In summer a white stephanotis disputes possession -and covers the tiled roof of a garden shed, filling -the whole air with its delicious scent. Among -other sweet-smelling plants were daturas, whose -great trumpets are especially night-scented flowers, -and in early spring the tiny white blossoms of the -creeping smilex smell so much like the orange -blossoms which have not yet opened, that their -delicious fragrance might easily be mistaken for it. -Sweet-scented geraniums grow in every corner, -and heliotropes, sweet peas and stocks all add to -the fragrance of the garden.</p> - -<p>The grounds contain several good specimen -palms, too many perhaps for the health of flowers, -as their roots seem to poison the ground; hibiscus,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_74">[74]</span> -coral trees, pittosperums and a long list of trees -common to most sub-tropical gardens find a home, -but the tree I most admired was a venerable specimen -of the native olive growing near a grove of -feathery giant bamboos.</p> - -<p>The cypress avenue leads to a broad terrace at -a dizzy height above the sea; the surf beats against -the cliffs below, but the salt air does not seem to -affect the beautiful vegetation, and for long years -great clumps of Euphorbias and Kleinias have -stood against the winter storms when great breakers -roll in and crash against the rocks. On the left -lies the little flat town of the Puerto, over which -in clear weather the Island of La Palma emerges -from its mantle of clouds, and many a gorgeous -sunset bathes the whole town in a mist of rosy -light, recalling the legend that in days of old, navigators -had christened the little fishing-port the -Puerto de Oro, after Casa de Oro, the House of -Gold, which title they had given to the Peak, as -night after night the setting sun had turned its -cap of snow to pale gold.</p> - -<p>On the right the broken coast-line stretches away -into the far distance, and the mountains rise above -the little villages; they in their turn are caught<span class="pagenum" id="Page_75">[75]</span> -by the setting sun and kissed by her last departing -rays, and turned to a rosy pink, but as the ball of -fire sinks into the sea, the shadows creep up, and in -one moment in this land which knows no twilight, -the light is gone and the cold greyness of night -takes possession.</p> - -<p>Just behind La Paz are the Botanical gardens, -which owe their existence to the Marquez de -Nava, who in 1795 undertook at enormous expense -to level the hill of Durasno, and lay it out for -receiving the treasures of other climes. Though -complaints are often made of its distance from -the so-called “English colony,” the site was well -chosen, as the soil on this side of the <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">barranco</i>, -which separates it from the lava bed, is decidedly -more fertile, and being of a heavier nature and -deeper is less liable to blight and disease, which -are the curse of the gardens on light dry soil, and -which no amount of irrigation will cure. In this -garden are collected treasures from every part of -the world; new ground is sadly needed as the immense -trees and shrubs have made the cultivation -of flowers a great difficulty. Humboldt appreciated -the use of these gardens for the introduction of plants -from Asia, Africa and South America, remarking<span class="pagenum" id="Page_76">[76]</span> -that: “In happier times when maritime wars shall -no longer interrupt communication, the garden -of Teneriffe may become extremely useful with -respect to the great number of plants which are sent -from the Indies to Europe: for ere they reach our -coasts they often perish owing to the length of the -passage, during which they inhale an air impregnated -with salt water. These plants would meet -at Orotava with the care and climate necessary for -their preservation; at Durasno, the Protea, the -Psidium, the Jambos, the Chirinoya of Peru, the -sensitive plant, and the Heliconia all grow in the -open air.”</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_096.jpg" alt="" width="392" height="550" /> -<p class="caption center p90">BOTANICAL GARDENS, OROTAVA</p> -</div> - -<p>To give a list of all the trees and plants would -be an impossibility and any one who is interested -in them will find an excellent account of the gardens -in a pamphlet written by Dr. Morris of Kew, -who was much interested in his visit to the Canary -Islands in 1895. The gardens for some years fell -into a neglected state from lack of funds, but once -again bid fair to regain their former glory under -new management. Among the chief ornaments -of the gardens are the very fine specimens of the -native pine, <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">Pinus canariensis</i>, an immense <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">Ficus -nitida</i>, one of the best shade-giving trees, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_77">[77]</span> -travellers from the tropics will recognise an old -friend in <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">Ravenala madagascariensis</i>, the “Traveller’s -Tree,” in the socket of whose leaves water is always -to be found.</p> - -<p>Further up the road is the property of San Bartolomeo; -the land is now entirely devoted to banana -cultivation, the house is handed over to the tender -mercies of a <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">medianero</i>, and the garden tells a tale -of departed glories. In the <em>patio</em> of the house a -donkey is stalled under a purple bougainvillea, and -tall cypresses look down reproachfully at the fallen -state of things. In the chapel of the house mass -is still said daily, but for seven years I was told -the <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">sala</i> had not been opened. In the garden the -myrtle hedges have grown out of all bounds, jessamines -have become a dense tangle, and the plaster -<i lang="es" xml:lang="es">poyos</i>, which once were full of plants, are crumbling -to decay.</p> - -<p>Near by is El Cypres, formerly a villa, and -named after its splendid cypresses, which mark -every old Spanish garden, and now unfortunately -appear to be little planted. This villa has been -turned into a <em>pension</em>, and its glory is also departed. -El Drago has been more fortunate, and has been -rescued by foreign hands, and the wealth of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_78">[78]</span> -creepers, especially <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Plumbago capensis</i>, which in -autumn has a complete canopy of pale blue flowers -clambering over the pergolas, together with its -splendid trees, make a landmark in the landscape.</p> - -<p>A few miles away I wandered one evening into -another deserted garden, not entirely uncared for, -as I was told the owner from the villa came there -for a few weeks in summer. This garden showed -that it had originally been laid out with great care -and thought, not in the haphazard way which -spoils so many gardens, and afterwards I learnt -that it had been planned by a Portuguese gardener, -and I recognised the little beds with their neat box -hedges, the clumps of rosemaries and heaths which, -though they were somewhat unkempt, showed that -in former days they had been clipped into shape -after the manner of all true Portuguese gardens. The -garden walls and plaster seats of charming designs -showed traces of fresco work in delicate colouring, -and soft green tiles edged the water basin, in which -grew a tangle of papyrus, yams and arums. A -garden house, whose roof was completely covered -with wistaria, was surrounded by a balcony whose -walls had also been frescoed, but now, alas, packing -cases for bananas had sorely damaged them. The<span class="pagenum" id="Page_79">[79]</span> -sole occupants of the garden appeared to be a pair -of peacocks; the male bird at the sight of an -intruder spread his fan and strutted down the -terrace steps to do the honours of the garden. The -flower-beds, which had once been full of begonias, -lilies, pelargoniums, and every kind of treasured -plant, are now too much overshadowed by large -trees, but I longed to have the restoring of this -garden to its former beauty.</p> - -<p>On the other side of the yawning <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">barranco</i> lie -Sant Antonio and El Sitio del Pardo, both old -houses, built long before the town began to -develop and new houses cropped up on the western -side. Across this <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">barranco</i> a new road, which was -to lead from the <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">carretera</i> to the Puerto, was commenced -some years ago, and left unfinished, after -even the bridge had been constructed, because the -owner of a small piece of land refused to sell, or -allow the road to pass through his property. Thus -it remains a “broken road,” because, in true Spanish -fashion, no one had taken the trouble to make sure -that the land was available before the undertaking -was commenced; and still all the traffic to the -port has to wind its way slowly along several miles -of unnecessary road.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_80">[80]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_103.jpg" alt="" width="350" height="550" /> -<p class="caption center p90">EL SITIO DEL GARDO</p> -</div> - -<p>El Sitio is another old villa which was visited -by Humboldt, who was present on the eve of St. -John’s Day at a pastoral <em>fête</em> in the garden of -Mr. Little, who appears to have been the original -owner of El Sitio. Humboldt says: <span class="pagenum" id="Page_81">[81]</span>“This gentleman, -who rendered great service to the Canarians -during the last famine, has cultivated a hill covered -with volcanic substances. He has formed in this -delicious site an English garden, whence there is a -magnificent view of the Peak, of the villages along -the coast, and the isle of La Palma, which is -bounded by the vast expanse of the Atlantic. I -cannot compare this prospect with any, except the -views of the Bay of Genoa and Naples; but Orotava -is greatly superior to both in the magnitude of -the masses and richness of the vegetation. In the -beginning of the evening, the slope of the volcano -exhibited on a sudden a most extraordinary spectacle. -The shepherds, in conformity to a custom -no doubt introduced by the Spaniards, though it -dates from the highest antiquity, had lighted the -fires of St. John. The scattered masses of fire, -and the columns of smoke driven by the wind, -formed a fine contrast with the deep verdure of the -forest, which covered the sides of the Peak. Shouts -of joy resounding from afar were the only sounds -that broke the silence of nature in the solitary -regions.”</p> - -<p>El Sitio is also well known as being the house -where Miss North made her headquarters when she -visited Teneriffe, and made her collection of drawings -of plants from Canary Gardens, which are in -the gallery at Kew. Miss North, in her book of -“Recollections,” appears to have thoroughly enjoyed -her stay, and describes this garden as follows:</p> - -<p>“There were myrtle trees ten or twelve feet high, -Bougainvilleas running up cypress trees. Mrs. -Smith (the owner of the garden in those days) -complained of their untidiness, and great white -Longiflorum lilies growing as high as myself. The -ground was white with fallen orange and lemon -petals; the huge white Cherokee roses (<i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Rosa lævigata</i>) -covered a great arbour and tool-house with -their magnificent flowers. I never smelt roses so -sweet as those in that garden. Over all peeped -the snowy point of the Peak, at sunrise and sunset -most gorgeous, but even more dazzling in the -moonlight. From the garden I could stroll up -some wild hills of lava, where Mr. Smith had -allowed the natural vegetation of the island to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_82">[82]</span> -have all its own way. Magnificent aloes, cactus, -euphorbias, arums, cinerarias, sundry heaths, and -other peculiar plants, were to be seen in their fullest -beauty. Eucalyptus trees had been planted on the -top, and were doing well with their bark hanging -in rags and tatters about them. I scarcely ever -went out without finding some new wonder to -paint, lived a life of most perfect peace and happiness, -and got strength every day with my kind -friends.”</p> - -<p>This property has been fortunate enough to -pass to other hands who still appreciate it, and -the above paragraph, though written so many -years ago, is still a very good description of the -garden.</p> - -<p>Sant Antonio has not been so fortunate. For -some years its garden was the pride of Orotava. In -the terraced ground in front of the house, plants -and trees from every part of the world found a -home; but when the maker of this garden left it, -the owner ruthlessly tore up the garden to plant -bananas. Here and there among the banana-groves -may be seen a solitary bougainvillea still climbing -over its trellised archway, but little remains, except -on one terrace below the house, to show that the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_83">[83]</span> -garden was ever cared for. In the grounds there -still remains some very good <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">treillage</i> work. The -pattern of the screens, arches, and arbours are distinctly -Chippendale in character and design, and -are painted a soft dull green. In several other -instances I noticed admirable patterns in the woodwork -of screens to deep verandahs, and in the upper -part of wooden doorways. Chippendale must at -one time have been much admired and copied in -the Canaries, and to this day, in even the humblest -cottage, the chairs are of true Chippendale design, -though roughly carved.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_84">[84]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="VI"><abbr title="6">VI</abbr></h2> -</div> - -<p class="center">TENERIFFE (<em>continued</em>)</p> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Icod de los Vinos</span>, a little town on the coast, some -seventeen miles from Orotava, was in the days of its -prosperity a great centre of the wine and cochineal -trade. Its prosperous days are a thing of the past, -and to-day it appears to be rather a sleepy little -town; but possibly for just this reason it is more -picturesque than some of its richer neighbours, -whose inhabitants can afford to build modern and -most unsightly houses.</p> - -<p>The drive from Orotava to Icod is by far the -most beautiful drive in the island. Once the dusty -stretch of <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">carretera</i> between the junction of the -road from Tacoronte to the Puerto is left behind, -the drive becomes full of interest. The road passes -below the picturesque little village of Realejo Bajo, -skirts the towering cliffs on which is perched the -little village of Icod el Alto some 1700 ft. above, -and winds along the sea shore. Every turn of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_85">[85]</span> -road brings into sight a fresh view of the deeply -indented coast-line between the storm-bent old -tamarisk trees which edge the road for miles. The -long avenues of eucalyptus trees, with their ragged -bark hanging in strips, will always be associated in -my mind with all the carriage roads in Teneriffe. -Early in March the vegetation reminds one that -spring has begun. The geraniums in the cottage -gardens are showing promise of their summer -glory, fringing the walls or hanging in long trails -from the little flat roof tops. The winter rains -have washed the dust off the hedge-rows and -banks, and in places where water is dripping from -the rocks they are draped with a thick coating of -maiden-hair fern, and the pale lilac blossoms of the -wild coltsfoot, <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Cineraria tussilaginis</i>, stud the banks. -I should imagine this to have been the parent of the -variety known in cultivation as <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Cineraria stellata</i>, -so much grown of late years in English greenhouses. -The rocks themselves are studded with -the curious flat <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Sempervivum tabulæformæ</i>, looking -like great green nail heads, and <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">S. canariensis</i> was -just throwing up flower-spikes from its rosettes of -cabbage-like leaves. Here and there a little waterfall -gives welcome moisture to water-loving plants.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_86">[86]</span> -Common brambles, encouraged by the dampness, -grow to vast dimensions and hang in rich profusion, -winding themselves into cords until they -look like the lianes of a tropical forest. Far down -in the crevasse below the stone bridges, the long -fronds of ferns, the untorn leaves of a seedling -banana, with the large leaves of the common yam, -suggest a sub-tropical garden.</p> - -<p>Between the road and the sea are great stretches -of land cultivated with bananas, a mine of wealth -to their owners, who now no longer visit their -summer residences on these estates. Neglected -gardens tell a tale of departed glories, and many of -the houses are left to fall to rack and ruin, or are -merely inhabited by the <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">medianero</i> who has rented -the ground.</p> - -<p>Near the outskirts of San Juan de la Rambla a -stone arch crosses the road, and just beyond, the -deep Barranco Ruiz cuts into the mountain sides. -It is a grand rocky ravine, and by a steep narrow -path which winds up the side it is possible to reach -Icod el Alto at the top of the <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">barranco</i>.</p> - -<p>The little town of San Juan de la Rambla is very -picturesquely situated, and every traveller is shown -the beautifully carved latticed balcony on an old<span class="pagenum" id="Page_87">[87]</span> -house, as the carriage rattles through the little -narrow street. We are told that luckily the -balcony is made of the very hard and durable wood -of the beautiful native pine, <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Pinus canariensis</i>, -which is rapidly becoming a rare tree in the lower -parts of the island. The wood itself is locally called -<em>tea</em>, and the trees are called <em>teasolas</em> by the country -people, who know no other name for them.</p> - -<p>Once San Juan is passed the Peak becomes the -centre of interest. The luxuriant vegetation is left -behind, the beauty of the coast is forgotten, and -the completely different aspect which the Peak -presents from this side absorbs one’s attention. -The foreground is nothing but rocky ground, but -numbers of <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Cistus Berthelotianus</i> brighten up the -barren ground with their bushes of showy rose-coloured -flowers. In places they were interspersed -with great quantities of asphodels, whose branching -spikes of starry white and brownish flowers seem -hardly worthy of their romantic name. In reality -they have always sadly shattered my mental picture -of the asphodel—the chosen flower of the ancients, -the flower of blessed oblivion—this surely should -have been a superb lily, pure white, and “fields of -asphodels” which we read of should be rich green<span class="pagenum" id="Page_88">[88]</span> -meadows full of moisture, where the lilies should -grow knee deep, not arid tufa slopes where erect -rods of this strange blossom rise from a cluster of -half-starved narrow leaves. The local name is -<i lang="es" xml:lang="es">gamona</i>, and in Grand Canary where they abound, -one large tract of land is called <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">El llano de las -gamonas</i>, the plain of asphodels.</p> - -<p>At a higher level begins the <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">Pinar</i> or forest -of that most beautiful of all pines, the native <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Pinus -canariensis</i>. Here on the lower cultivated ground -the few specimens that remain, having escaped -complete destruction, are mostly mutilated, having -had all their lower branches cut for firewood or -possibly for fear they should shade some little patch -of potatoes or onions, and the younger trees -resemble a mop more than a tree, with nothing left -but a tuft of fluffy branches at the top.</p> - -<p>The little town of Icod de los Vinos is prettily -situated, being built on a great slope, intersected -by many streams of lava. There is a very picturesque -Plaza with a little garden and fountain in -front of the old convent of San Augustin, whose -façade has several carved latticed balconies which -are the great beauty of all the old houses in -Teneriffe.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_89">[89]</span></p> - -<p>Visitors to Icod are all taken to see their famous -dragon tree, <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Dracæna Draco</i>, of which the inhabitants -are justly proud, as it is now the largest -and oldest in the island since the destruction of its -rival in Villa Orotava. We were assured its age -was over 3000 years, an assertion I was not -prepared to dispute, and hardly even ventured to -look incredulous, and so cast a slur on their almost -sacred <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">El drago</i>. There is no doubt the growth of -these trees is almost incredibly slow; they increase -in height in the same way as a palm, putting out -new leaves in the heart of the tufted crowns and -dropping an equal number of old ones, which -process leaves a curiously scarred marking on the -bark. No one seems to know how often a tuft -flowers, but certainly only once in many years, and -it is only after flowering that the stem forks, so in -specimens which are centuries old the head of the -tree becomes a mass of short branches with tufted -heads, which in their turn become divided, and so -it goes on until one begins to wonder whether there -is not some truth in the immense age attributed -to them. The curious aerial roots which descend -from the branches gradually creep down, and it is -the layers upon layers of these that strengthen the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_90">[90]</span> -original stem sufficiently to enable it to bear the -immense weight of its tufted crown, as decay seems -always to set in in the heart of the stem, and by the -time the trees attain to a venerable age they are -invariably hollow. An old document describing -the tree says “it has no heart within. The wood -is very spongy and light, so that it serves for the -covering of hives or making shields. The gum -which this tree exudes is called dragon’s blood, and -that which the tree sweats out without cutting is -the best, and is called ‘blood by the drop.’ It is -very good for medicine, for sealing letters, and for -making the teeth red.”</p> - -<p>Icod is a good centre for expeditions, and those -who are brave enough to face the dirt and discomfort -of a Spanish <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">fonda</i> can pass a week or so very -pleasantly. It is a matter of great regret that -better accommodation is not available in many of -the smaller towns, and I own that personally I -could never bring myself to face the native inn. -No scenery is worth the discomfort of dirty beds, -impossible food and the noise of the <em>patio</em> of -a <em>fonda</em>, where as often as not, goats, chickens, -pigeons and a braying donkey all add to the concert -of the harsh loud voices of the women servants.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_91">[91]</span></p> - -<p>Now that motor-cars are available in Orotava it -renders matters much easier for making expeditions -in the day. Formerly, the greater part of the day -was occupied by the drive to and from Icod, but -if an early start is made, on arrival at Icod there -is still a long day before one, and it is possible to -make a visit to the old Guanche burial caves or to -continue the road to Garachico. This now unimportant -little village was once the chief port of the -island, and the number of old churches and convents -still remaining speak for themselves of the -former importance of the place. In the days when -Icod de los Vinos, as its name implies, was celebrated -for its vines, the wine which was made -there was shipped from the port of Garachico. The -old sugar factory which still stands was once the -property of an English firm, but the various booms -in the wine, cochineal and sugar trade, are things -of the past, and Orotava is now the centre of the -banana boom.</p> - -<p>Possibly the pleasantest expeditions from Icod -are those which lead through the pine forest past -the Ermita Sta. Barbara. Good walkers will find -magnificent walks along fairly level paths once -they have accomplished the first climb of about<span class="pagenum" id="Page_92">[92]</span> -3000 ft., and can make their way along to the -Corona and down the steep zig-zag path below -Icod el Alto, or there is a lower track which makes -a good mule ride back to Orotava.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_93">[93]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="VII"><abbr title="7">VII</abbr></h2> -</div> - -<p class="center">TENERIFFE (<em>continued</em>)</p> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Many</span> visitors to Teneriffe find their way across -the mountains from Orotava to Guimar in the -course of the winter or spring, which is the best -time for the expedition. Though the actual time -required for the journey from point to point may -be only about seven hours, according to the condition -of the road, it is best to make an early start -and to have the whole day before one, so as to -have plenty of time to rest on the way and enjoy -all there is to be seen.</p> - -<p>Once the last steep streets of the Villa Orotava -are left behind the country at once changes its -aspect. The banana fields, which have become -somewhat monotonous after a long stay in their -midst, have vanished, the air is cooler, and in -the early morning the ground is saturated with -dew. In spring the young corn makes the -country intensely green, and the pear and other<span class="pagenum" id="Page_94">[94]</span> -fruit blossoms lighten up the landscape, while in -the hedge-rows are clumps of the little red -<em>Fuchsia coccinea</em>, and great bushes of the common -yellow broom. Here and there the two Canary -St. John’s worts, <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Hypericum canariensis</i> and -<i lang="la" xml:lang="la">H. floribundum</i>, are covered with berries, their -flowers having fallen some months before. Ferns -and sweet violets grow on the damp and shady -banks, and occasionally fine bushes of <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Cytisus prolifer</i> -were to be seen smothered with their soft, silky-looking -white flowers. Gradually the region of -the chestnut woods is reached, but these having -only dropped their leaves after the spell of cold -weather early in January, are still leafless, and it is -sad to see how terribly the trees are mutilated by the -peasants. Though not allowed to fell whole trees, -the law does not appear to protect their branches, -and often nothing but the stump and a few -straggling boughs remain, the rest having been -hacked off for firewood. Small bushes of the -white-flowered <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Erica arborea</i> soon appear, and the -showy rose-coloured flowers of <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Cistus vaginatus</i> -were new to me.</p> - -<p>At a height of about 3800 feet the level of the -strong stream called Agua Mansa is reached, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_95">[95]</span> -though it is not actually on the road to Guimar -many travellers make a short détour to visit the -source of the stream and the beautifully wooded -valley. The absence of woods in the lower country -no doubt makes the vegetation on the steep slopes -of the little gorge doubly appreciated. Many -narrow paths lead through the laurel and heath, -and on the shady side of the valley the extreme -moisture of the air has clothed the stems of the -trees with grey hoary lichens. The luxury of the -sound of a running stream is rare in Teneriffe and -one is tempted to linger and enjoy the scene under -a giant chestnut tree, which has shaded many a -picnic party from the Puerto.</p> - -<p>By retracing one’s steps for a short distance the track is regained; -Pedro Gil looms far ahead and the long steep ascent begins, up the -narrow mule path among thickets of the tree heaths. Here these heaths -are merely shrubby, not the splendid specimens which may be seen near -Agua Garcia, where they are protected from the charcoal-burners, -but the wide stretches covered with white flowers are very lovely -appearing through the mist, which even on the finest day is apt to -sweep across occasionally. The vegetation on<span class="pagenum" -id="Page_96">[96]</span> these Cumbres is much the same as that which -is passed through on the way to the Cañadas, and in spring the <i -lang="la" xml:lang="la">Adenocarpus viscosus</i> or <i lang="la" -xml:lang="la">anagyrus</i>, its tiny yellow flowers growing among the -small leaves which crowd the branches, is about the last sign of plant -life. Above this region are merely occasional patches of moss which -live on the moisture of the mist which more often than not enwraps -these heights. In clear weather, the long and rather tedious scramble -of the last part of the road is soon forgotten in the delight at the -magnificent view at the end. The top of the pass, 6800 ft., is like -the back-bone of the island, and on the one side the whole valley of -Orotava lies stretched below, with the Peak standing grand and majestic -on the left, and on the other side lie the slopes down to the pine -woods above Arafo. It is hard to agree with a writer who describes the -scene as one of “immense desolation and ugliness, the silence broken -only by the croaking voice of a crow passing overhead.” It is just this -silence and stillness which appeals to so many in mountain regions; -there is something intensely restful yet awe-inspiring in the complete -peace which reigns in high altitudes in fair weather.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_120.jpg" alt="" width="550" height="411" /> -<p class="caption center p90">CONVENT OF SANT AUGUSTIN, ICOD DE LOS VINOS</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_97">[97]</span></p> -<p>A long pause is necessary to rest both man and -beast, as not only is the path a long and trying -one, but it is possible for the sun to be so extremely -hot even at that altitude that it seems to -bake the steep and arid slopes of lava and volcanic -sand, and the loose cinders near the end of the -climb make bad going for the mules. The so-called -path becomes almost invisible except to the -quick eye of the mules, accustomed as they are to -pick their way across these stretches of loose -scoriæ. Often the question “Which is the way?” -is met by the owner of the mule answering “<i lang="es" xml:lang="es">Il -mulo sabe</i>” (the mule knows), instead of saying, -“To the right” or “To the left,” and I generally -found he was right.</p> - -<p>Many people prefer the ascent to the descent, -and certainly though I have nothing but praise for -mules as a means of locomotion going uphill, -there are moments when I preferred to trust to my -own legs going down the loose cindery track.</p> - -<p>The fact that the eastern mountain slopes are -warmer and drier, as the rainfall is not so great, -encourages the vegetation to rise to a much -higher altitude and the barren world of lava and -cinders is sooner left behind. Our old friend the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_98">[98]</span> -<i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Adenocarpus</i> soon greeted us, like a pioneer of -plant life, and gradually came the different regions -of pine, tree heaths, laurels, and then the grassy -slopes.</p> - -<p>The gorge known as the Valle is described as -“one of the most stupendous efforts of eruptive -force to be seen in the world, the gap appearing -to have been absolutely thrown into space.” A -network of what might well be mistaken for dykes -seems to cut up the surface, and the whole formation -of the Valle is of great interest to geologists. -To the ordinary observer it is certainly suggestive -of a desolate waste, and the black hill known as -the Volcan of 1705 does not help to give life to -the scene. The white lichen, which is the true -pioneer of plant life, is only beginning to appear, -though in crevices where deep cracks in the lava -have probably exposed soil below the sturdy -Euphorbias are getting a hold, and a few other -robust plants, such as the feathery <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Sonchus leptocephalus</i>, -which I have always noticed seems to revel -in lava. Possibly another century may make a great -difference to the scene, but certainly during the -past two hundred years there has not been much -sign of returning vegetation, and the fiery stream<span class="pagenum" id="Page_99">[99]</span> -has done its work thoroughly. The relief is great -at once more reaching the pine woods above Arafo, -and the fatigue, not peril, of the descent being -over it is pleasant to find the comfort of the well-named -Buen Retiro Hotel at Guimar.</p> - -<p>Though over a thousand feet above the sea, the -situation is so sheltered that Guimar boasts of one -of the best and sunniest climates in Teneriffe, the -little village lying as it were in a nest among the -hills. The flowery garden of the hotel tells its own -tale, better than any advertisement or guide-book, -and a week may be spent exploring the various -<i lang="es" xml:lang="es">barrancos</i> in the neighbourhood, especially by -botanists, or lovers of plants. The Barranco del -Rio is renowned as being about the best botanical -collecting ground in the island. Dr. Morris says -he found there no fewer than a hundred different -species of native plants, many of which he had not -seen elsewhere. The dripping rocks are clothed -with maiden-hair fern, and the giant buttercup, -<i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Ranunculus cortusæfolius</i>, appears to revel in the -damp and the high air. The Barranco Badajoz -is perhaps wilder and more precipitous; in places -the rocky walls of these gorges rise to 200 ft., and -appeal immensely to those who enjoy wild scenery.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_100">[100]</span> -The lack of a roaring river tumbling down them I -never quite got over, during all my stay in Teneriffe. -Perhaps in a bygone age they existed, and -owing to some eruption cracks were formed and -the water vanished, as the bed of the stream seems -to be there, but, alas! no water or only a trickling -stream. The tiniest stream has to be utilised to -provide water for a village below or for irrigation -purposes, and this, combined with the deforestation -of the island, no doubt has helped to drain the -<i lang="es" xml:lang="es">barrancos</i>. There is more water in the Guimar -ravines than in most, and from the Barranco del -Rio or the Madre del Agua I should imagine the -whole water-supply of the village is derived.</p> - -<p>Those who are interested in relics should visit -Socorro, about an hour distant from Guimar, the -original home of the miraculous image of the Virgin -de Candelaria. So celebrated was this image that -nearly a whole book on the subject has been issued -by the Hakluyt Society, edited and translated from -old documents by Sir Clement Markham. The -image is supposed to have been found in about the -year 1400, by some shepherds, standing upright -on a stone in a dry deserted spot near the sandy -beach. A cross was afterwards erected by<span class="pagenum" id="Page_101">[101]</span> -Christians when the Spaniards occupied the island -to mark the spot, and in front of it was built the -small hermitage called El Socorro. One shepherd -saw what he supposed to be a woman carrying a -child standing in his path, and as the law in those -days forbad a man to speak to a woman alone in -a solitary place, on pain of death, he made signs -to her to move away in order that he and his sheep -might pass. No notice being taken and no reply -made, he took up a stone in order to hurl it at the -supposed woman, but his arm became instantly -stiff, and he could not move it. His companion, -though filled with fear, sought to ascertain whether -she was a living woman, and tried to cut one of -her fingers, but only cut his own, and did not even -mark the finger of the image. These accordingly -were the two first miracles of the sacred figure.</p> - -<p>These shepherds related their experiences to the -Lord of Guimar, who after being shown the stiff -arm and cut fingers of the men, summoned his -councillors to consult as to what had best be done. -Accompanied by his followers and guided by the -shepherds, he came to the spot and ordered the -shepherds to lift the figure, as it apparently was -no living thing, and to remove it to his house.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_102">[102]</span> -On approaching the image to carry out their -Lord’s orders, the stiff arm of the one and the -cut fingers of the other instantly became cured. -The Lord and his followers were so struck -with the strange and splendid dress of the -woman, who was now invested as well with supernatural -powers, that they lost their first terror. -Determined to do honour to so strange a guest -within his dominions, the Lord of Guimar raised -the image in his arms and transported it to his -own house.</p> - -<p>Unbelievers say that the image was merely the -figure-head of a ship which was washed up on the -beach, but the faithful maintain that so beautiful -was the image, so gorgeous its apparel and so -brilliant the gold with which it was gilded, that it -was the work of no human hands, and contact -with the sea would have destroyed the brilliancy of -its colouring.</p> - -<p>The Lord of Guimar sent the news of the -wonderful discovery to the other chiefs in the -island, offering that the image, evidently endowed -with supernatural and healing powers, should spend -half the year within the territory of the Lord of -Taoro. This offer was declined, but the chief<span class="pagenum" id="Page_103">[103]</span> -came with many followers to see the new wonder, -which was set up on the altar in a cave and guarded -with great care. For some forty years the image -remained in the care of infidels, who regarded it -with great awe, and then it fell to the lot of a -boy named Auton, who had been converted to -Christianity by the Spaniards, to enlighten the -natives as to the nature of their treasure. On -being shown the figure he instantly recognised it -as being a representation of the Virgin, and after -having prayed before it, he instructed the natives -in the story of the Virgin Mary. The boy was in -return made sacristan of the image and it was -guarded day and night. At certain intervals -visions of processions on the beach were seen and -remains of wax candles were found, and a shower of -wax upon the beach was supposed to have been -sent to provide wax for candles to be burnt in -honour of Our Lady of Candelaria.</p> - -<p>The neighbouring islands soon heard tales of -the holy relic and the inhabitants came to visit it. -For several centuries wonderful miracles were at -different times ascribed to it, and it continued to be -regarded with the deepest reverence, though the -housing and care of the image was the cause of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_104">[104]</span> -various feuds, and on one occasion it was stolen -and carried away to Fuerteventura, but was -returned.</p> - -<p>Unfortunately, during a great storm in 1826, -the holy relic was swept away into the sea, and -thus was the original Virgin de Candelaria lost, -and though a new image was made and blessed by -the Pope it has never been regarded with quite the -same awe and reverence, though many pilgrims -visit the church on August 15, the feast of -Candelaria, and again on February 2.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_105">[105]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="VIII"><abbr title="8">VIII</abbr></h2> -</div> - -<p class="center">GRAND CANARY</p> - - -<p><span class="smcap">I have</span> noticed that there is always a certain -amount of jealousy existing between the inhabitants -of a group of islands. In old days they -were of course absolutely unknown to each other, -and even spoke such a different language that they -had some difficulty in making themselves understood. -Though such is naturally not the case -to-day when in a few hours the little Interinsular -steamers cross from one island to another, still in -Teneriffe you are apt to be told there is nothing -to be seen in Grand Canary, or if you happen to -visit Las Palmas first you will probably be told -you are wasting your time in proposing to spend -some weeks or months in Teneriffe or in even -contemplating a flying visit to the other islands.</p> - -<p>It was with a feeling of great curiosity that I -watched our approach to Grand Canary, as one -evening late in May our steamer crept round the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_106">[106]</span> -isthmus known as La Isleta and glided into the -harbour of Puerto de la Luz. Many towns look -their best from the sea and this is perhaps -especially true of Las Palmas. The sun was -setting behind the low hills which rise above the -long line of sand dunes, dotted with tamarisks, -running between the port and the isleta, and -in the evening light the town itself, some three -miles away, looked far from unattractive, its -cathedral towers rising above the palm trees on -the shore.</p> - -<p>On landing the illusion is soon destroyed; the -dust, which is the curse of Las Palmas, was being -blown gaily along by the north-east wind, which -seems to blow perpetually, and the steam tram -which connects the port and the town was grinding -along, emitting showers of black smoke, and I -began to think the writer was not far wrong who -said Las Palmas was “a place of barbed wire and -cinders.”</p> - -<p>Most travellers’ destination is the hotel at Santa -Catalina, lying midway between the port and the -town, and here many of them remain for the rest of -their stay, not being tempted ever to set foot outside -the pleasant grounds and comfortable hotel,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_107">[107]</span> -except possibly to play a game of golf on the -links above, which are a great attraction and boon -to those who are spending the winter basking in -the sunshine in search of health.</p> - -<p>The island appears to have altered its name from -Canaria to Gran Canaria because of the stout -resistance offered by the natives, who called themselves -Canarios, to the Spanish invasion. The -original name is said to have had some connection -with the breed of large dogs peculiar to the island, -though none appear to exist now. As regards the -shape of the island the following is a very good -description: “The form of the island is nearly -circular, and greatly resembles a saucerful of mud -turned upside down, with the sides furrowed by -long and deep ravines. The highest point is a -swelling upland known as Los Pechos, 6401 ft.” -I own that as I approached the island there was -a curious sense of something lacking, something -missing, and then I realised that we were no -longer to live under the shadow of the Peak, that -an occasional distant glimpse is all we should see -of the great mountain which we had grown to -look on as a friend.</p> - -<p>The nearest object of interest to the hotel is the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_108">[108]</span> -Santa Catalina fountain, where in August 1492, -after praying in the chapel, Christopher Columbus -filled his water-barrels with a store of water which -was to last him until the New World was sighted. -Columbus on each of his expeditions touched at -the Canaries; but at the very outset of his first -voyage, one of his ships having lost her rudder and -suffered other damage in storms encountered on -the way, Columbus cruised for three weeks among -the islands in search of another vessel to replace -his <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">caravel</i>. Though he heard rumours of three -Portuguese <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">caravels</i> hovering off the coast of Ferro -(now called Hierro) three days’ calm detained him, -and by the time he reached the neighbourhood -where the ships had been seen, they had vanished, -and repairing his rudder as best he could he started -in search of an unknown land, eventually reaching -one of the Bahama group. Columbus’ next visit -to the Canaries was on his second voyage of discovery, -when he again called at the islands, this -time taking wood, water, live stock, plants and -seeds to be propagated in Hispaniola, where he had -already been so struck with the beautiful and varied -vegetation. In the town of Las Palmas an old -house is pointed out as the house where Christopher<span class="pagenum" id="Page_109">[109]</span> -Columbus died; but I am afraid, if we are to -believe historians, this is merely a flight of the -imagination. In Washington Irving’s “Life of -Columbus” we are told that he died at Seville -surrounded by devoted friends, and a note says: -“The body of Columbus was first deposited in the -convent of St. Francisco, and his obsequies were -celebrated with funereal pomp in the parochial -church of Santa Maria de la Antigua, in Valladolid. -His remains were transported in 1513 to the Carthusian -convent of Las Cuevas, in Seville. In the -year 1536 the bodies of Columbus and his son -Diego were removed to Hispaniola and interred by -the side of the grand altar of the cathedral of the -city of San Domingo. But even here they did not -rest in quiet; for on the cession of Hispaniola to -the French in 1795 they were again disinterred, -and conveyed by the Spaniards with great pomp -and ceremony to the cathedral of Havanna in -Cuba, where they remain at present.”</p> - -<p>One of the easiest expeditions from Las Palmas -is along the main road to the south of the island, -either driving or by motor. Long stretches of -banana fields provide the fruit for the English -market, which finds its way daily on to the mole:<span class="pagenum" id="Page_110">[110]</span> -and in spring hundreds of carts, with potato-boxes -labelled “Covent Garden,” come from the same -district. A little way before reaching the village -of Tinama, which is built amid desolate surroundings -of lava and black cinders, the road passes -through a tunnel, which must have been somewhat -of an undertaking to bore, and then a vast bed of -lava crosses the road. Here some huge clumps of -<i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Euphorbia canariensis</i> show that this plant is not -peculiar to any one island, but is equally at home -on any bed of lava or cliff.</p> - -<p>Telde, famous for its oranges—said to be the best -in the world—is not a very interesting town; but -from a little distance, combined with the almost adjoining -village of Los Llanos, its Moorish dome amid -groves of palm trees, and scattered groups of white -houses, make it unlike most other Canary towns. -The celebrated orange groves are some distance off, -and it is feared that so little care is taken of the -trees that the disease and blight which have ravaged -nearly all the groves in the archipelago will soon -attack these. The disease could be kept at bay by -insecticides and combined effort, but it is no use -for one grower to wage war against the pest, if his -neighbour calmly allows it to get ahead in his groves,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_111">[111]</span> -though the excellence of the oranges makes it seem -as if they deserved more care. If disaster overtakes -the banana trade—and already I heard whispers -of grumbling at the absurd price of land, and -rumours of as good land and plenty of water to -be had on the West Coast of Africa, where labour -is half the price—possibly orange-growing may be -taken up by men who have learnt their experience -in Florida, and by careful cultivation another golden -harvest may be reaped.</p> - -<p>The ultimate destination of most travellers in -this direction is the Montaña de las Cuatro Puertas -(the Mountain of the Four Doors), which is a most -curious and interesting example of a native place -of worship. The Canarios seem to have been -especially fond of cave-dwellings, which are very -common in Grand Canary, though they are by no -means unknown in the other islands; and it is no -unusual thing to find districts where a scanty -population is troglodytic in habit, living entirely -in cave-dwellings scooped out of the soft sandstone -rock. Some families have quite a good-sized -though strange home, and besides rooms with -whitewashed walls are stables for goats or mules. -One writer says: “The hall-mark of gentility in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_112">[112]</span> -troglodyte circles is the possession <em>of a door</em>. This -shows that the family pays house tax, which is not -levied upon those who live the simpler life, and are -content with an old sack hanging across the open -doorway.”</p> - -<p>Webb and Berthelot, in their “Histoire Naturelle,” -seem to have been much struck by these -cave-dwellings, and the following account appears -in their description of the Ciudad de las Palmas: -“The slopes above the town on the west are pierced -by grottoes inhabited by families of artisans; -narrow paths have been made in the face of the -cliffs by which to get to these excavations. After -sunset, when the mountain is in deep shadow, the -troglodyte quarter begins to light up, and all these -aerial lights, which shine for a moment and then -instantly disappear, produce the most curious effect.” -The “Mountain of the Four Doors” is of much -larger dimensions than any ordinary cave-dwelling, -as the whole mountain appears to have been -excavated, and would certainly have made a very -draughty dwelling, as the four entrances which -give the mountain its name are only separated by -columns, thus allowing free entrance to the wind. -The sacred hill is said to have been partly occupied<span class="pagenum" id="Page_113">[113]</span> -by embalmers of the dead, the mummies being -eventually removed to the burial cave on one side. -Another side of the hill was the residence of the -<em>Faycans</em>, or priests, who conducted the funeral -ceremony; and there were the consecrated virgins, -or <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">harimaguedas</i>, who were here kept in the strictest -seclusion for years, employed in the gruesome -occupation of sewing the goat-skins for wrapping -up the mummies. The Canarios appear to have -regarded a shelf in the burial cave running north -and south as being the most honourable position, -and on these they placed the bodies of highest rank, -judging from the mummies found on them, as the -leather is often richly embroidered, and the greatest -care was taken in embalming the bodies. The inferiors -were laid east and west. Any one who is -interested in the study of the Canary mummies will -find much to interest them in the Museum in Las -Palmas, which is said to be richer in remains of -aboriginals than any other museum in the world. -Here may be seen rows of mummies in glass cases, -some curious pottery, and the <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">Pintaderas</i>, or dyes, -which were used to stamp designs on the skin or -leather.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_139.jpg" alt="" width="369" height="550" /> -<p class="caption center p90">AN OLD BALCONY</p> -</div> - -<p>In the same museum the sight of the fearsome<span class="pagenum" id="Page_114">[114]</span> -“devil-fish,” in the room devoted to local fishes, -must, I think, have made many visitors from Orotava -shudder to think of the light-hearted way in which -they had gaily bathed on the Martianez beach—an -amusement I often considered dangerous from the -strength of the breakers and the strong undercurrent; -but when added to this I was assured -the monster, which is said to embrace its victims and -carry them away under water after the manner of the -octopus, was “not uncommon round the Canaries,” -I was thankful to think I had never indulged in -bathing.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_115">[115]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="IX"><abbr title="9">IX</abbr></h2> -</div> - -<p class="center">GRAND CANARY (<em>continued</em>)</p> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Many</span> of the residents of Las Palmas move to the -Monte for the summer, but even in late spring -most people are glad to get away from the town and -the white dust, which by then is lying ankle deep -on the roads. Monte is the only other place which -the ordinary traveller will care to stay in, as the -native inns in Grand Canary bear a bad reputation -for discomfort and dirt, and the Monte makes a -good centre for expeditions, besides being an entire -change of air and scene.</p> - -<p>The last part of the drive up from the town -which is only some six or seven miles, affords good -views of the lie of the land and makes one realise -the immense length of the <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">barrancos</i> in this island. -It appears never to be safe to assert the name of a -<i lang="es" xml:lang="es">barranco</i>, as it is not uncommon for one ravine to -have four or five different names in the course of its -wanderings towards the sea. The great <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">barranco</i><span class="pagenum" id="Page_116">[116]</span> -one looks down into from the road beyond Tafira is -called at this point the Barranco del Dragonal.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_145.jpg" alt="" width="550" height="380" /> -<p class="caption center p90">A BANANA CART</p> -</div> - -<p>A century ago this district was a mere expanse of -cinders interspersed with the usual Canary plants -which find a home in the most desolate of lava beds. -Clumps of Euphorbias and its two inseparable -companions, the miniature dragon tree, <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Senecio -Kleinia</i>, and the graceful <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Plocama pendula</i> broke -the monotony of the grey lava. Now the scene -has changed and this once desolate region has been -transformed into one of the most fertile districts of -the island. On the terraced slopes vines flourish, -whose grapes produce the best red Canary wine. -Footpaths bordered with flowers lead through -these countless acres of vineyards, recalling the -fashion in Teneriffe of the flower borders, <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">passeios</i>, -which lead through many of the banana plantations, -showing that the owner of the land still had some -soul for gardening and a love of flowers, as he -spared a strip of the precious soil for flowers. -Many an alley in early winter is gay with rows of -poinsettias feeding and flourishing on the water -and guano which is given to the crop with a lavish -hand, or rows of scarlet and white geraniums -flank rose trees, interspersed here and there with<span class="pagenum" id="Page_117">[117]</span> -great clumps of white lilies. The country in late -spring is fragrant and gay from the bushes of Spanish -broom (<i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Spartium junceum</i>) which edge the lanes; -their yellow blossoms are in charming contrast to -the soft grey-green of the old agaves, which make -such excellent hedges.</p> - -<p>Just behind the Monte lies the great basin of the -Caldera. It is best seen from the Pico de Bandama, -a hill 1840 ft., which not only commands an excellent -view of the crater, but of all the country round. -The Gran Caldera de Bandama, a vast complete -basin with no outlet, is over a mile across and 1000 ft. -deep, and consequently is one of the most perfect -craters in the world. The walls are formed of rocks -and here and there vivid bits of colouring speak for -themselves of its origin, and round the edge are layers -of cinders. It is to be hoped that it will not some -day come to life again and throw up a peak, as the -basin of the Cañadas is supposed to have thrown -up the great cone of the Peak of Teneriffe. It -looks peaceable enough to-day, a mule track leading -down into it. At the bottom of the crater -vines are cultivated, and a farmer calmly lives on -what was once a boiling cauldron.</p> - -<p>The vines seem to thrive in the volcanic soil,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_118">[118]</span> -their roots go down deep in search of damper loam -below, and this possibly helps to keep them free of -disease, though in spring the effect of the tender -green shoots with their long twining tendrils is -sadly spoilt when, just as they are coming into -flower, the mandate goes forth to dust the growth -with sulphur. The men and women, who for the -past weeks have been busy gathering in the potato -crop, are now employed in sulphur dusting. For -two months or more whole families are engaged -with the potato harvest; the rows are either -ploughed up with a primeval-looking plough, or -hoed with the broad native hoe, which does duty -for spade or fork in this country, and then the -potatoes are collected with great rapidity, even the -smallest member of the family helping, sorted and -packed in deal boxes holding each some 60 or -70 lb., with a layer of palm fibre on the top, and -shipped to England. It is well known that Canary -new potatoes do not command a very good price in -the English market, and I often wondered whether -it is not the kind which is at fault. Kidney -potatoes, which are regarded in England as the -best for new potatoes, are hardly ever grown, the -Spaniards regarding them with horror and loathing,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_119">[119]</span> -and though English seed is imported annually, the -result to my mind seemed unsatisfactory, as I -never came across any young potatoes worthy of -the name “new potatoes.” Possibly the soil and -climate are unsuited, and there is a tendency I was -told in all varieties to excessive growth, and no -doubt the green peas and broad beans, which are -most suited to English soil, often here grow to -mammoth proportions, giving a poor result as a -crop, and it is only experience which proves which -are the varieties best suited to the climate and soil. -The peas which are grown from seed ripened in -the island degenerate to tasteless, colourless specimens, -producing tiny pods, with at the outside -three peas in them, and the French beans have -the same lack of flavour when grown from native -seed.</p> - -<p>Potatoes and tomatoes are both unfortunately -liable to disease, and in some seasons the whole -crop is lost. The same disease appears to affect -both crops. Dr. Morris, when he visited the -islands, thought seriously of the outlook, unless -systematic action was taken. He says: “There is -a remedy if carefully applied and the crop superintended, -but the islanders seem to regard the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_120">[120]</span> -trouble with strange indifference, and go on the -plan of ‘If one crop fails, then plant another.’”</p> - -<p>The volcanic soil appears to suit cultivated garden -plants, as well as vines, bananas and potatoes, and -the gardens in the neighbourhood of Telde are a -blaze of colour and have a wonderful wealth of -bloom in May, which is essentially the “flower -month” in all the islands. Earlier in the winter -it is true the creepers will have been at their best, -and by now the last trumpet-shaped blooms will -have fallen from that most gorgeous of all creepers, -<i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Bignonia venusta</i>, and the colour will have faded -from the bougainvilleas, red, purple, or lilac, -though they seem to be in almost perpetual bloom. -Allemandas flourish even at this higher altitude, as -does <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Thumbergia grandiflora</i>, another tropical plant. -Though its bunches of grey-blue gloxinia-like -blooms are beautiful enough individually, it is -sadly marred by the dead blossoms which hang on -to the bitter end and are singularly ugly in death, -not having the grace to drop and leave the newcomers -to deck the yards of trailing branches, -with which the plant will in an incredibly short -time smother a garden wall or take possession of -and eventually kill a neighbouring tree. Roses<span class="pagenum" id="Page_121">[121]</span> -seem to flourish and bloom so profusely that the -whole bush is covered with blossoms, and a garden -of roses would well repay the little care the plants -seem to require. The Spaniards prefer to prune -their roses but once a year, in January, but by -pruning in rotation roses could be had all the year -round, and certainly half the trees should be cut -in October, after the plants have sent up long -straggling summer growth, and by January a fresh -crop would be in flower. But the native gardener -is nothing if not obstinate, and if January is the -month for pruning according to his ideas, nothing -will make him even make an experiment by cutting -a few trees at a different season, and in this month -are cut creepers, trees and shrubs, utterly regardless -as to whether it is the best season or not.</p> - -<p>In most gardens the trees comprise several -different Ficus, the Pride of India (<i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Melia Azedarach</i>), -many palms, oranges, mangos and guavas, -lagerstrœmias, pomegranates and daturas, while -flower-beds are filled with carnations, stocks, -cinerarias, hollyhocks and longiflorum lilies, all -jostling each other in their struggle for room. The -country people struck me as having a much greater -love of flowers here than in Teneriffe, where a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_122">[122]</span> -cared-for strip of cottage garden or row of pot -plants is almost a rare sight, and roof gardening is -perhaps more the fashion. Geraniums and other -hanging plants tumble over the edge of the flat -roof tops, looking as though they lived on air, as -the boxes or tins they are grown in are out of -sight. Here the humblest cottager grew carnations, -fuchsias, begonias, and pelargoniums with -loving care in every old tin box, or saucepan, that -he could lay hands on. One reason that pot plants -are scarce is the enormous cost of flower-pots, -which are mostly imported, and often if I wished -to buy a plant, the price was more than doubled if -the precious pot was to be included in the bargain. -In May, the month especially consecrated to the -Virgin Mary, all her chapels and way-side shrines -are kept adorned with flowers. In the larger -churches the altar and steps are draped with blue -and white, and piled up with great white lilies -whose heavy scent mingling with the incense is -almost overpowering, but in the humbler shrines -the offerings are merely the contributions of posies -of mixed flowers, placed there probably by many -a woman who is called after Our Lady. I was -always struck by the number of way-side crosses and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_123">[123]</span> -tiny shrines in many of which a lamp shines nightly, -and yet I cannot say the people seemed to be either -reverent or deeply religious, and I was never able -to obtain an explanation of the crosses one came -across in unexpected places, even in the branches -of trees in the garden. At first I thought they -must be votive offerings in memory of an escape -from danger, possibly a child who had fallen from -the tree and escaped unhurt, but the gardener -merely said it was <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">costumbre</i>, the custom of the -country, and offered no further information. On -May 3, the Fiesta de la Cruz, every cross, however -humble, is decked with a garland of flowers, -which often hangs there until the feast comes -round again, and in front of many of the crosses a -lamp is lighted on this one night in the year.</p> - -<p>On holidays and Sundays the women, especially -those who are on their way to Mass, wore their -white cashmere mantillas, and I inquired whether -this also had any connection with “Our Lady’s” -month of May, but I was told in old days they -were the almost universal head-dress, a fashion -which unfortunately is fast dying out. This -appeared to be the only distinctively local feature -of their dress, and the usual head-dress of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_124">[124]</span> -women and children, with bright-coloured handkerchiefs -folded closely round the forehead and knotted -in the nape of the neck, is common to all the -islands. When the family is in mourning even the -smallest member of the household wears a black -handkerchief matching its bright black eyes, but -the day I fear is fast approaching when battered -straw hats will take their place, not the jaunty -little round hats with black-bound brims, which -every country woman wears to act as a pad for -the load she carries on her head. For generations -the women have carried water-pots and baskets -which many an English working man would -consider a crushing load, and no one can fail to -admire their splendid carriage and upright bearing, -as they stride along never even steadying their -load with one hand. The only peculiarity of the -men’s dress is their blanket cloaks; in some of the -islands they are made of <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">mantas</i> woven from native -wool, but as often as not an imported blanket is -used, gathered into a leather or black velvet collar -at the neck. On a chilly evening in a mountain -village every man and boy is closely wrapped in -his <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">manta</i>, often it must be owned in an indescribable -state of filth. At night they do duty as a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_125">[125]</span> -blanket on the bed, and in the day are dragged -through dust or mud, but cleanliness is not regarded -in Spanish cottages, where chickens, goats, -and sometimes a pig all seem to share the common -living-room.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_154.jpg" alt="" width="347" height="550" /> -<p class="caption center p90">AN OLD GATEWAY</p> -</div> - -<p>I fear the few model dwellings which the tourist -is invited to inspect at Atalaya (the Watch Tower) -are not true samples of the average cottage or cave-dwelling. -Atalaya was formerly a native stronghold, -and one can quite imagine what formidable -resistance the invaders must have met with from -these primitive fortresses. The narrow ledges cut -in the face of the cliffs made the approach to them -almost inaccessible except to the Canarios, who -appear to have been as agile as goats, and from -the narrow openings showers of missiles could be -hurled at the attackers. Atalaya at the present -time is the home of the pottery makers. They -fashion the local clay into pots with a round stone -in just as primitive a way as did the ancient -Canarios. They seem to live a life apart, and are -regarded with suspicion by their neighbours, who -rarely intermarry with them. The whole colony -are inveterate beggars, old and young alike, but -as tourists invade their domain in order to say they<span class="pagenum" id="Page_126">[126]</span> -have seen “the most perfect collection of troglodyte -dwellings in the Archipelago,” and request -them to mould pots for their edification, it is -perhaps not surprising that they expect some -reward.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_127">[127]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="X"><abbr title="10">X</abbr></h2> -</div> - -<p class="center">GRAND CANARY (<em>continued</em>)</p> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Those</span> who do not mind a long day and really early -start can see a good deal of the country and make -some very beautiful expeditions without facing the -terrors of the native inn. When even our guide-book—and -the writer of a guide-book is surely -bound to make the best of things—warns the -traveller that the “accommodation is poor,” or -that “arrangements can be made to secure beds,” -every one knows what to expect. So a long day, -however tiring, is preferable, if it is possible to -return the same night.</p> - -<p>A drive of two hours leads to San Mateo, where -good accommodation would be a great boon, as it -is a great centre for expeditions, besides being -beautifully situated near chestnut and pine woods. -A rough mule track leads in something under three -hours to the Cruz de Tejeda, which is about the -finest excursion in the island. Good walkers will<span class="pagenum" id="Page_128">[128]</span> -probably prefer to trust their own legs rather -than the mule’s; but it is a stiff climb, as the -starting-point, San Mateo, is only some 2600 ft. -above the sea, while the Cruz is 5740 ft. Without -descending into the deep Barranco which leads -down to Tejeda itself, in clear weather the view is -magnificent. That most curious isolated rock, the -Roque Nublo, stands like a great pillar or obelisk, -pointing straight into the heavens, rising 370 ft. -above all its surroundings, and more than 6000 ft. -above sea-level, and is often clearly visible from -Teneriffe. The great valley of Tejeda lies stretched -before the traveller, who is surely well rewarded -for his climb by the splendid panorama. Deep -precipitous ravines full of blue shadows lie in vast -succession in front, and to the right the cultivated -patches in the valley are a bright emerald green -from the young corn, and over the deep blue sea -beyond, towers the great Peak of Teneriffe, looking -most majestic and awe-inspiring rising above the -chain of high mountains which are veiled in a -light, mysterious mist. Never, perhaps, is the -great height of the mountain so well realised, -as it stands crowning a picture which our -guide-book tells us is “never to be forgotten, -and second to none in Switzerland or the -Alps.”</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_160.jpg" alt="" width="550" height="371" /> -<p class="caption center p90">THE CANARY PINE</p> -</div> - -<p>Another favourite expedition for the energetic is -to the Cumbres, particularly for those who are bent -on reaching the highest land in the island. The -Pico de los Pechos is the highest point (6400 ft.), -but the Montaña de la Cruz Santa, on the left, is -generally chosen, as here parties of walkers and riders -can meet, under the shadow of the Holy Cross, where, -on the festivals of St. Peter and St. John, a religious -<em>fiesta</em> is held. Before the wholesale deforestation -took place, this district must certainly have been -much more beautiful; now it is a silent, shadowless -world, a desolate region of stony ground, over -which run great <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">barrancos</i> looking like deep rents -in the mountain sides. Probably no other island -has suffered more cruelly from the axe of the -charcoal-burner, and in the neighbourhood of Las -Palmas everything has been cut which could be -converted into charcoal, and nowadays that necessary -article of life to the Spaniard has to be -imported.</p> - -<p>One of the most beautiful of all their native -forests, the forest of Doramas, is hardly worthy -of its name at the present time; scattered trees<span class="pagenum" id="Page_130">[130]</span> -on the mountain side are all that remains of one -of the most beautiful of primeval forests, which was -so celebrated in the days of the Canarios. Even in -1839, when Barker Webb and Berthelot visited the -forest, they lamented over the destruction of the -trees, and whole stretches of country which had -formerly been pine and laurel woods were only -covered with native heath. The prince Doramas, -who is said to have lived in a grotto in the -picturesque neighbourhood of Moya, gave his name -to the mountain and forest, and these travellers -visited his cave, which was still regarded with -great veneration on account of the tales of the -heroic and brave deeds and almost superhuman -strength of the prince, which had been handed -down from generation to generation. They found -the door, or rather entrance, to the grotto draped -with garlands of <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">Hibalbera</i> (<i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Ruscus androgynus</i>) -and the scarlet-flowered <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">Bicacaro</i> of the Guanches -(<i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Canarina campanulata</i>), as the spot was then -solitary and deserted. Some years before the -Spanish traveller Viera had been charmed by the -beauty of the forest, and a translation of passages -from his work on the “General History of the -Canary Islands” will show what a treasure the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_131">[131]</span> -Spaniards have lost in allowing the destruction of -the woods.</p> - -<p>“Nature,” he says, “is here seen in all her -simplicity, nowhere is she to be found in a more -gay or laughing mood; the forest of Doramas is -one of the most beautiful of the world’s creations -from the variety of its immense straight trees, -always green and scattering on all sides the wealth -of their foliage. The sun has never penetrated -through their dense branches, the ivy has never -detached itself from their old trunks; a hundred -streams of crystal water join together in torrents -to water the soil which becomes richer and richer -and more productive. The most beautiful spot of -all in the depth of this virgin forest is called -Madres de Moya; the singing of the birds is -enchanting, and in every direction run paths easy -of access; one might believe them to be the work -of man, but they are all the more delightful -because they are not. By following one of these -paths one comes to the spot called by the Canarios, -the Cathedral, an immense and complete dome of -verdure formed by the meeting of the branches -of the magnificent trees. Laurels raise their great -trunks in colonnades, with their branches inter<span class="pagenum" id="Page_132">[132]</span>laced -and bent into gigantic arcades, which -produce a most marvellous effect. Advancing -under their majestic shadow one discovers at every -turn fresh views, and one’s imagination, carried -away by the tales of the ancients, is filled with -poetic impressions. These enchanted regions are -well worthy of the fictions of fables, and in the -enthusiasm they give birth to when wandering in -their midst, the Canarios appear to have lost -nothing of their celebrity; these are still the -Fortunate Islands and their shady groves the -Elysium of the Greeks, the wandering place of -happy souls.”</p> - -<p>The poet Cayrasco de Figueroa, who was known -as the “divin Poête,” and whose tomb is to be -seen in one of the side chapels of the cathedral in -Las Palmas, wrote verses in praise of the forest, -which he must have seen in all its glory in 1581, -and some fifty years later the venerable don -Christobal de la Camara, Bishop of Grand Canary, -travelled all through it and wrote of “the -mountain of d’Oramas as one of the marvels of -Spain: the different trees growing to such a -height that it is impossible to see their summit: -the hand of God only could have planted them,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_133">[133]</span> -isolated among precipices and in the midst of -masses of rock. The forest is traversed by -streams of water and so dense are its woods, that -even in the days of greatest heat the sun can -never pierce them. All I had been told beforehand -of its beauties appeared fabulous, but when I -had visited it myself I was convinced that I had -not been told enough.”</p> - -<p>Between 1820 and 1830 the forest seems to have -suffered much. At the former date some part of -the woods remained in all their pristine beauty on -the Moya side and the great Til (<i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Laurus fœtens</i>) -trees round Las Madres were still standing, but ten -years later, when Barker Webb and his companion -visited this spot again, these splendid trees were -shorn of their finest branches and the devastation -of the woods had begun.</p> - -<p>Long before this date the mountain appears to -have become an apple of discord. Some influential -landed proprietors demanded the division of the -forest, the <em>communes</em> interfered, and eventually the -question became a political one. Just as a settlement -was arrived at the party in power fell and -General Morales arrived on the scene, having been -granted a large part of the forest by Ferdinand <abbr title="the seventh">VII</abbr>.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_134">[134]</span> -in recognition of his services, and the deforestation -of the district began in earnest, in spite of local -resistance to the royal decree.</p> - -<p>In most of the islands some old pine has been -given the name of the Pino Santo, and protected -by a legend of special sanctity, but perhaps the -Pino Santo of Teror was the most venerated of all. -The tree, old historians tell us, was of immense -size and grew adjoining the Chapel of Our Lady; -so close, in fact, that one of its branches served as -the foundation of the belfry. The unsteadiness of -this strange foundation not unnaturally hastened the -destruction of the little tower, and on April 3, 1684, -the sacred tree, which collapsed from its great age -and weight, threatened to crush the chapel beneath. -The sacred image of Our Lady of the Pine was so -named because it was said to have been found in -the branches of the tree. This miraculous discovery -was made after the conquest in 1483. The -Canarios had often observed a halo of light round -the tree which they did not even dare approach, but -Don Juan de Frias, bishop and conqueror, more -courageous than the rest, climbed into the -branches of the tree and brought down a statue -of the Virgin. He is said to have found the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_135">[135]</span> -image among thick branches and between two -dragon trees, nine feet high, which were growing -out of a hollow in the pine branches. The figure -at once received the name of Nuestro Señora del -Pino, the church, which has been built on the site -of the old chapel, being dedicated to her. The -spot on which stood the sacred tree is now marked -with a cross, and a pine tree close by is said to be -a descendant of the Pino Santo. Nor is this all -the legend about this wonderful tree. A spring of -healing water issued from beneath it, and here the -faithful came to bathe and be healed of their ills. -An avaricious priest thinking he would collect fees -or alms from those who came to visit the spring, -caused it to be enclosed by masonry and a door, -which he kept locked, upon which the sacred -spring dried up, and his schemes were defeated. -Below the village to this day are some mineral -springs dedicated to Our Lady of Lourdes. Who -knows, possibly this is the same sacred spring -which has reappeared to benefit the sick.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_136">[136]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="XI"><abbr title="11">XI</abbr></h2> -</div> - -<p class="center">LA PALMA</p> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Every</span> one agrees that La Palma is almost the -most beautiful of the group of seven Fortunate -Isles, so it is all the more deeply to be deplored -that there is not better communication between -the little port of Santa Cruz de la Palma and -Teneriffe or Grand Canary. At rare intervals -during the winter, especially towards sunset, the -island had emerged from the clouds in which it is -usually enveloped and lain dark purple against a -golden sunset sky, an omen which we had learnt -to dread in Orotava, finding there was great truth -in the saying of the country people, “When La -Palma is to be seen, rain will come before two -days,” and sure enough the storm always came.</p> - -<p>The little town of Santa Cruz, or La Ciudad as -it is locally called, as if it was the only town in the -world, is most picturesquely situated on steep -slopes, very much resembling the situation of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_137">[137]</span> -Funchal in Madeira on a smaller scale. Possibly -in days to come La Palma may have a great future -before it as a tourist resort, when the new mole -fulfils the hopes of natives and their port becomes -a coaling-station for larger steamers. An hotel -among the pine woods would certainly be very -attractive, especially in spring, when the whole -island is afoam with fruit blossom. At present a -bad <em>fonda</em> is the only accommodation in Santa -Cruz, and most people curtail their stay in consequence, -and hurry away at the end of three days -during which time the steamer has been at the -neighbouring islands of Hierro and Gomera, or -else they ride over to Los Llanos, spurred by the -report of a very fairly comfortable inn. The island -affords almost endless expeditions, especially to -good walkers, as the tracks are bad and slippery -for mules. Near Santa Cruz the Barranco de la -Madera is the home of the Virgin de las Nieves, a -very ancient and much venerated image of the -Virgin, to whom the church is dedicated. Every -five years this sacred figure is carried down to the -sea in solemn procession, and the stone ship at the -mouth of the great <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">barranco</i>, which is called after -Our Lady of the Snows, is rigged and decked in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_138">[138]</span> -gala fashion with bunting. Not only from all parts -of the island, but many devout Spaniards congregate -to do honour to her, and a great <em>fiesta</em> takes -place, which must be a curious and most interesting -ceremony.</p> - -<p>The Barranco del Rio is the most beautiful of -all the walks in the neighbourhood. Like its -namesake near Guimar in Teneriffe, it is a happy -hunting-ground for the botanist, and those who -have a steady head and do not mind narrow paths -and precipices can wander far along through the -gorge, where the beautiful rocks are clad with -innumerable ferns and native plants.</p> - -<p>In ancient days the Guanches gave the island -the name of Benahoave, meaning “my country,” -which sounds as though they were so proud of the -island when they took possession of it, probably -sailing across from Teneriffe, that they meant to -stick to it. The present name first appears on the -old Medici map in Florence (1351), which is said -to be the oldest chart of these waters. The name -is supposed to have been given to the island by an -expedition composed of Florentines, Genoese and -Majorcans who had visited the Canaries some ten -years before. It was probably the last-named who<span class="pagenum" id="Page_139">[139]</span> -christened the island La Palma, after the capital -of Majorca, so at the time of the conquest, though -the Spaniards introduced many changes in the way -of laws, religion and agriculture, they did not -change the European name by which the island -had become known.</p> - -<p>Webb and Berthelot when they visited the island -in 1837 were loud in praise of the wealth and -luxury of the vegetation, which in their opinion -surpassed that of any other of the Canary group.</p> - -<p>The island centres in the vast abyss of the Gran -Caldera, which centuries ago was the boiling cauldron -of a great crater. The islanders are immensely -proud of their old crater, and always assert that -the Peak of Teneriffe was merely thrown up by -<em>their</em> volcano in one of its most terrific upheavals. -As in the other islands at a certain elevation the -region of laurels and other evergreen trees, in whose -shade ferns flourish, is succeeded by the mammoth -heaths, and higher still come the beautiful pine -woods with their slippery carpet of pine needles on -which both man and beast find a difficulty in keeping -a footing. On the more arid slopes of parts of -the Cumbre the scattered vegetation is more suggestive -of Alpine regions. The above-mentioned<span class="pagenum" id="Page_140">[140]</span> -learned travellers attribute the presence of the -immense number of apparently wild almond and -other fruit trees to their having sown themselves -from the original trees introduced to the island -by the conquerors, who, determined to make the -most of the climate and soil, set about to change -the face of the land. The natural vegetation -receded to the higher regions as the lower parts -became more and more cultivated with almonds, -vines, oranges, lemons and bananas, which up to -then had been unknown in the island. In some -districts woods of chestnut trees, which were also -introduced, have taken the place of the virgin -forest. To these two travellers also belongs the -honour and glory of having discovered the Echium -peculiar to the Island, and they at once gave it -its local name, <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Echium pininana</i>, though <em>nana</em> does -not seem very appropriate to it, as it is anything -but dwarf, growing to a height of 15 ft. with a -dense spike of deep blue flowers. Several of the -lovely Canary brooms appear to be indigenous to -the island, and Professor Engler of Berlin, who -visited La Palma last year, found the yellow-flowered -<em>Cytisus stenopetalus</em> in two varieties, <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">palmensis</i> -and <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">sericeus</i>, besides the graceful drooping<span class="pagenum" id="Page_141">[141]</span> -and sweet-scented white <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Cytisus filipes</i> and <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Retama -rhodorrhizoides</i>, and the <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Cytisus proliferus</i> common -to most of the islands.</p> - -<p>Most people prefer to visit the great crater from -Los Llanos, an expedition occupying three days. -The journey across the Cumbres <em>viâ</em> El Paso to -Los Llanos is one of extreme beauty, as the vegetation -begins very soon after leaving Santa Cruz, -and at a height of only 1000 ft. the chestnut, -laurel, and heath woods begin. The path winds -through these enchanting woods until at a higher -elevation the giant heaths alone are left. From the -top of the Cumbre Nueva there is a magnificent -view over the whole island, Santa Cruz nestling -among the hills by the shore and in the far distance -lie Teneriffe and Gomera. To the south is the old -Cumbre, called Vieja in contradistinction to its -newer neighbour; from one of its heights a stream -of lava is said to have descended in 1585, which is -probably the last occasion on which the volcano -showed any activity. The dense vegetation covering -some of the streams of lava speaks for itself of -their great age, as it is said that not a particle of -vegetation appears on lava until it has had four -centuries in which to grow cold, and then the first<span class="pagenum" id="Page_142">[142]</span> -sign of returning life is a peculiar lichen which -appears on the heaps of lava. The great mountain -of Timé, whose black and forbidding precipice -overhangs the Barranco de las Augustias, makes -many a traveller wonder who first had the courage -to make a path, steep and narrow though it is, -down the face of the rock. Possibly the goatherds, -<em>pastors</em>, first learnt the lie of the land, swinging -themselves on their <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">lanzas</i> or long spiked poles -from rock to rock with surprising agility, and then -others not trained to this strange mode of progression -made the paved track.</p> - -<p>On the western slopes the pine woods soon commence, -the splendid trees increasing in size until the -sacred Pino de la Virgen is reached—a giant whose -trunk measures some 25 ft. round. Hardly a -traveller passes the shrine at its foot without dropping -a coin, however humble, into the money-box -which is kept for its support. How long the pine -has been regarded as a holy tree, or for how many -generations the lamp has been lighted nightly, I -know not; but in 1830 Berthelot wrote: “This -beautiful tree, said to be a contemporary of the -Conquest, shows no sign of age; a little statue of -the Virgin has been placed in the first fork of its<span class="pagenum" id="Page_143">[143]</span> -branches; every evening the woodcutters of the -neighbourhood come silently and reverently to -light the little lamp which hangs above the sacred -image. At dusk, if one passes near the <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">Pino Santo</i>, -this lamp, which shines alone in the depth of the -forest, casting shadows on the leafy bower which -protects this mysterious shrine, inspires one with a -sense of deep feeling and dread. The presence -of this tree, which has been made sacred and endowed -with mysterious powers, caused me to feel -for it the very greatest veneration.”</p> - -<p>Though the little village of El Paso is situated -somewhat nearer to the Gran Caldera, few travellers -stop there, as it does not boast of an inn, however -humble, and to be taken as a “paying guest” does -not appeal to many people. It is better to push on -to Los Llanos, a pleasant village reached by a road -from Tazaconte, which runs through orange groves, -where in spring the air is heavy and sickly with the -scent of the blossom, and then passing through -almond groves and orchards of every kind of fruit -tree, so to the very last the beauty of road is kept -up, and the traveller is well repaid.</p> - -<p>Though the expedition to the Gran Caldera is -always described as a tiring one, the natives would<span class="pagenum" id="Page_144">[144]</span> -feel deeply hurt if any visitor to their island did -not go to see their mighty crater. It is indeed -mighty—a vast basin, measuring in places four to -five miles across, and some 6500 to 7000 ft. deep; -its very size makes it difficult to realise that it is a -crater, and it might easily be regarded as merely a -deep hollow among the mountains. Though its -walls are great bare grey crags, the pine woods -which clothe the lower slopes of the hills which -rise from the bottom of the crater, in places the -bottom itself being clothed with trees, make it all -the less like an ordinary crater. Great deep ravines -tear the base, and these in their turn have become -pine woods, carpeted with soft and slippery pine -needles which for centuries possibly have lain -undisturbed. The Caldera is recommended as a -camping-ground, as water, which in Palma is scarce, -is to be found; in fact, innocent-looking dry stony -beds may through rainy weather on the higher land -suddenly become a roaring stream. Some people -might think it too inaccessible a spot, but the -solitude, and the sound of the wind whispering -among the pines, would appeal to many. That -the depth of the crater has altered since a bygone -age is evident, as caves of the Haouarythes, the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_145">[145]</span> -aboriginal inhabitants of La Palma, are now absolutely -inaccessible; nothing but a bird could reach -the entrance to them. The action of water is said -to account for this; possibly underground streams -broke loose after a plutonic effort and upheaval of -the volcano, and the upper crust subsided.</p> - -<p>Peasants are still to be seen wearing the peculiar -hood or <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">montera</i> made of dark brown woollen -cloth lined with red flannel, in shape like a sou’wester, -turned up in front fitting closely to the -head, the flap hanging behind lined with red, or -sometimes if the flap is not required as a protection -against the weather the corners are buttoned over -the peak in front. The <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">mantas</i>, blanket cloaks, are -all made of wool woven in the island. These are -both articles of men’s dress. The women’s caps -have no flaps, and are very ugly, and the picturesque -dress which survived for a time in Breña Baja is -now extinct altogether, as are also the tiny round -hats made from the pith of the palm.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_146">[146]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="XII"><abbr title="12">XII</abbr></h2> -</div> - -<p class="center">GOMERA</p> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Gomera</span> is seldom visited by tourists, but a flying -visit can be paid to it during the stay of the inter-insular -boat which plies between the islands. In -summer its higher land and woods would be an -ideal camping-ground for a traveller with tents, and -the climate is said to be very good. The soil -appears to be extremely rich and well repays the -cultivator, but the Cumbres are still clad with -beautiful woods, which up to now have escaped -from the destructive charcoal-burners. The soil of -the island is volcanic, but it is one of the few of the -group which cannot boast of an old crater, and the -highest point is only about 4400 ft. A remarkable -feature of the vegetation is the entire absence of -pines; there are none at the present time, and old -historians always comment on their absence. This in -itself showed ancient writers the approximate height -of the island, as nowhere is the native <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Pinus canariensis</i> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_147">[147]</span>found in its natural conditions under -4000 ft. above sea level, while in the region below -that altitude <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Erica arborea</i> flourishes. In Gomera -the heaths attain larger dimensions than in any -other island, and grow into real trees, and on the -beautiful expedition from San Sebastian, the port, -to Valle Hermoso (the Beautiful Valley), which -appears well to deserve its name, the traveller -passes through a succession of well-watered and -wooded country and lovely forest scenery, said to -be unsurpassed in the Canaries. San Sebastian was -formerly of more importance than it is now, as in -old days its naturally sheltered harbour was much -valued by navigators.</p> - -<p>It was probably for this reason that it became -the favourite anchorage of Christopher Columbus -on his voyages of discovery. He first called at -Puerto de la Luz, in Grand Canary, in order to -repair the damage done to one of his fleet, but -leaving his lieutenant in charge of the damaged -ship, Columbus himself sailed to Gomera on -August 12, 1492. On this occasion he stayed for -eleven days, returning to Grand Canary to pick -up La Pinta, but he again called at Gomera on -September 1. He appears to have spent a week<span class="pagenum" id="Page_148">[148]</span> -in storing provisions, and several sailors from -Gomera joined his expedition. On his second -voyage he returned to his old anchorage, this time -again picking up sailors, and as he had a much -larger fleet of vessels under his command, besides -plants and seeds he embarked cows, sheep, goats, -pigs and chickens, all of which he wished to introduce -to the country he had already discovered, a fact -which has been of great interest to zoologists who -had been puzzled to determine the true race of -many animals found in the West Indies. Twice -again he visited Gomera, so there is no doubt it -was his favourite port of call. Some old historians -assert that for a time he lived in Gomera. At San -Sebastian an old house is still pointed out as having -belonged to him. After his marriage in Lisbon -with a daughter of the Portuguese navigator -Perestrello, for some years little seems to be known -of the admiral’s doings. The inhabitants of Madeira -claim that he lived in a house in Funchal, while -other writers affirm that he lived in Gomera and -speak of his return to “his old domicile” after one -of his voyages.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_183.jpg" alt="" width="550" height="386" /> -<p class="caption center p90">SAN SEBASTIAN</p> -</div> - -<p>In old days the inhabitants were called -Ghomerythes, and after the conquest of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_149">[149]</span> -island by the Spaniards, which did not prove -a difficult matter, as though the islanders were -a brave little band they knew little or nothing -of the art of warfare, the conquerors enlisted -the services of the natives to help them in -attacking the other islands. The island was not -left entirely undisturbed even after the conquest, -as Sir Francis Drake made several attempts to -take the island in 1585, and five years later a -Dutch fleet under Vanderdoes invaded the town. -On the walls of the quaint old church in San -Sebastian are paintings showing the repulse of -the Dutch fleet in the harbour in 1599. The -Moors in the seventeenth century attacked and -burnt a great part of the town.</p> - -<p>A peculiarity of the island is the strange whistling -language, which probably in ancient times -was in universal practice, but is now more or less -confined to one district, the neighbourhood of the -Montaña de Chipude, being very rarely used by -the natives in San Sebastian, who have most of -them lost the art. The best whistlers can make -themselves heard for three or four miles, and in -the whistling district all messages are sent in this -way, which no doubt is of the greatest convenience<span class="pagenum" id="Page_150">[150]</span> -where telegrams are unknown and deep <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">barrancos</i> -separate one village from another. The greatest -adepts in the art do not use their fingers at all, and -by mere intonations and variations of two or three -notes a sufficiently elaborate language has been -invented to enable a conversation to be carried on. -The following may possibly be a traveller’s tale, but -it shows the use which can be made of the language: -“A landed proprietor from San Sebastian with -farms in the south took lessons secretly. The next -time he visited his tenants he heard his approach -heralded from hill to hill, instructions being given -to hide a cow here or a pig there, and so on, in -order that he should not claim his <em>medias</em> or share -of the same.” The writer of the above himself -heard the following short message given: “There -is a <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">caballero</i> here who wants a letter taken to San -Sebastian. Tell Fulano to take this place on his -way and fetch it.” This was at once understood -and acted upon. If any doubt is held as to the -accuracy of the message, the answer comes to -repeat, and when understood the receiver answers -back, “Aye, aye.” It is to be hoped that the -practice will not entirely die out, as I believe the -whistling language of Gomera is unique.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_151">[151]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="XIII"><abbr title="13">XIII</abbr></h2> -</div> - -<p class="center">FUERTEVENTURA, LANZAROTE -AND HIERRO</p> - - -<p><span class="smcap">The</span> three islands of Fuerteventura, Lanzarote, and -Hierro, complete the group of seven Fortunate -Isles, as the little satellites of Graciosa, Alegranza, -Montaña Clara, are hardly more than large rocks, -uninhabited and only visited occasionally by fishermen.</p> - -<p>Fuerteventura, though by no means a very -small island, being over 60 miles long and about -18 miles broad, has remained in a primitive and -unexploited condition, because in spite of the -fertility of the soil, which is said to be remarkable, -the scarcity of water is great and the inhabitants -are entirely dependent on the rainfall. In a good -year, namely a rainy year, the island grows a very -good wheat crop, almost larger than that of any -other island, but the absence of fresh-water springs, -or the apathy of the natives in not making use of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_152">[152]</span> -what there are, has prevented any agricultural -development. The island has no pine forest and -trees are scarce: great parts of it are barren, sandy -and rocky plains, and the little vegetation there is, -is said to resemble that which is found in certain -parts of the northern deserts of Africa. Its highest -point is only about 2700 ft. and is called Orejas -de Asno (Ass’s Ears), situated in the sandy peninsula -at the extreme south of the island. At the -present time travellers are warned that drinking -water is scarce, nasty, and frequently has to be -paid for. Whether the island is even drier than -it was at the beginning of last century I know not, -but Berthelot and his companion remark that -there were many good springs, which even in July, -the driest month, were cool and clear, but were -allowed to waste themselves, no trouble being -taken to collect the water either for irrigation or -domestic use.</p> - -<p>Both Fuerteventura and the neighbouring island -of Lanzarote are given a distinctly African -appearance by the extensive use of camels as -beasts of locomotion and burden, donkeys even -being comparatively uncommon and difficult -to procure so communication between the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_153">[153]</span> -villages is almost entirely carried on by means of -camels.</p> - -<p>Lanzarote received its name from a corruption -of the Christian name of a Genoese, Captain -Lancelot de Malvoisel, and in the old Medici map -the island is marked with the Genoese coat-of-arms -to show that it belonged to that town.</p> - -<p>Though not as near the African coast as Fuerteventura, -which is only about 60 miles from Cape -Juby, the island is very African in aspect in -places, the camels, the vast stretches of blown -sand and the absence of vegetation being suggestive -of the Sahara.</p> - -<p>The few springs in the north of the island are -utilised for growing crops of wheat and tomatoes, -but are not of sufficient size to allow of any -extensive plan of irrigation, and in the south the -inhabitants depend entirely on rain water.</p> - -<p>Lanzarote is almost the most volcanic of all the -islands, and between 1730 and 1737 no fewer than -twenty-five new craters opened, so it is not to be -wondered at that the inhabitants were much -alarmed when fresh disturbances were felt in the -summer of 1824. In a series of letters written by -Don Augustin Cabrera, an inhabitant of the island<span class="pagenum" id="Page_154">[154]</span> -at the time, an excellent account is given of the -eruptions. A slight earthquake preceded the -sudden appearance of a new crater in the early -morning of July 1, 1824, in the neighbourhood of -Tao, in the centre of a plain. The crater, which -at first had the appearance of a great crevasse, -emitted showers of sand and red hot stones, and -did great damage to the surrounding country, -destroying some most valuable reservoirs, and it -was even feared that Tiagua, though a long distance -away, would be destroyed, as a <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">montañeta</i> in the -district began to smoke. On September 16, the -writer says that after eighteen hours the crater -had ceased its shower of hot ashes, but a dense -column of smoke spouted forth, and the rumbling -could be heard for miles round, and from the -<i lang="es" xml:lang="es">montañeta</i>, which at first had only smoked, came a -torrent of boiling water. “Yesterday,” says the -writer, “after there had been comparative quiet for -some time, a loud noise was heard, and the boiling -water spouted forth in torrents. At times there is -dense smoke, which clears away, and then comes -the water again.” Writing in October he gives a -most graphic and alarming account of an eruption -on September 29, when the volcano burst through<span class="pagenum" id="Page_155">[155]</span> -the lava deposit of 1730, and flaming torrents -flowed down to the sea. A noise like loud thunder -had continued unceasingly, and prevented the -inhabitants from sleeping, even many miles away. -No wonder they dreaded a repetition of the -disasters of 1730-37, as in two months two new -craters had opened. On October 18 another letter -says: “There is no doubt a furnace is under our -feet. For twelve days the volcano had appeared -dead, though frequent shocks of earthquake warned -us such was not the case, and true enough yesterday -the volcano burst through a bed of lava in the -centre of a great plain, sending up into the air a -column of boiling water 150 ft. high.” It is also -said that for several days the heat was suffocating, -and sailors could scarcely see the island because of -the dense mist.</p> - -<p>The island has been a source of the deepest interest -to geologists, and both M. Buch and Webb -and Berthelot visited it between 1820-38, spending -many weeks in the island. Few travellers seem -to find their way there now, as there is no -port and no mole passengers have to be carried -ashore.</p> - -<p>The little island of Graciosa, only five miles long<span class="pagenum" id="Page_156">[156]</span> -and a mile broad, separated from Lanzarote by the -narrow strait of El Rio, is a broad stretch of sand -covered with shells, but the three principal cones -in the island are said to be volcanic, and show the -origin of the island. After autumn rains, the sand -is covered with herbaceous plants, and in old days -the inhabitants of the north of Lanzarote used to -transport their cattle to feed there.</p> - -<p>Montaña Clara, hardly more than a rock some -300 ft. high, lies to the north of Graciosa, and Allegranza, -the “Joy” of Bethencourt, as it was the -first soil on which he set foot, is to the north again, -and is really the first island of the Canary Archipelago, -so it consequently boasts of a lighthouse. -The possession of the island in old days was a -matter of much dispute, as the feathers of a bird -(<i lang="es" xml:lang="es">Larus Marinus</i>) were very valuable, and nearly -as profitable as the down of the eider; also puffins, -which existed here in vast numbers, were salted -and sold, and now a small amount of fish-curing is -done on the island at certain seasons. The greater -part of the island is taken up by a crater of considerable -extent, so even this tiny island is not -without its Gran Caldera.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_192.jpg" alt="" width="344" height="550" /> -<p class="caption center p90">A SPANISH GARDEN</p> -</div> - -<p>Hierro, the Isle of Iron, is to the extreme south-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_157">[157]</span>west -of the Canary Archipelago, and for several -centuries was probably regarded by ancient navigators -as the most western point in the world—beyond -lay the unknown. The name is a corruption -by the Spaniards of the word <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">heres</i>, which in -the language of the original Ben-bachirs, whose -name was in its turn changed to Bembachos, meant -a small reservoir or tank for collecting rain water. -As the island is almost entirely dependent on the -rainfall these tanks were of the greatest value to -the natives, and in old records it is stated that a -<em>here</em> was much more valued in a marriage settlement -than land. The theory that the island was -called <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">hierro</i>, meaning iron, because of the presence -of the metal in the island is not much regarded, -as we are especially told by old historians that -when Bethencourt attacked the island the natives -were armed with lances which had <em>not</em> iron -heads, and the historian adds, the only iron these -natives knew was from the chains of their -oppressors, who appear to have treated them with -great cruelty.</p> - -<p>The excessive moisture of the air and the presence -of a fair amount of wooded country which -attracts the moisture, enables the flocks of sheep<span class="pagenum" id="Page_158">[158]</span> -to live on the natural vegetation. The only water -they get is from eating leaves of plants when -saturated with dew, their principal fodder being -the leaves and even roots of asphodel, also -mulberry and fig leaves. Hierro is especially -celebrated for its figs, which are the best grown in -any of the islands, and extremely free fruiting. One -tree alone may bear 400 lb. of fruit.</p> - -<p>The best-known springs are those of Los -Llanillos, which furnishes the best drinking water -in the islands, being said to be always clear and -cold, and the spring of Sabinosa. The latter is -warm, smells of sulphur, and has a bitter taste -and medicinal properties. One of Bethencourt’s -chaplains mentions that it has a great merit: -“When you have eaten till you can eat no more, -you then drink a glass of this water, and after an -hour all the meat is digested, and you feel just as -hungry as you did before you began, and can begin -all over again!”</p> - -<p>There is no sea-port village, the landing-place -consisting merely of a small cove sheltered by -masses of fallen rock, and the little capital of -Valverde lies two hours distant on foot. As practically -no accommodation is to be relied on, those<span class="pagenum" id="Page_159">[159]</span> -who are bent on exploring the island are recommended -to provide themselves with a tent. The -vegetation is said to be of great interest to botanists, -and they appear to be the only travellers who ever -visit the island.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_160">[160]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="XIV"><abbr title="14">XIV</abbr></h2> -</div> - -<p class="center">HISTORICAL SKETCH</p> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Few</span> people, until they are proposing to pay a visit -to the “Fortunate Islands,” a name by which the -group of seven Canary Islands seems to have been -known since very early days, ever trouble themselves -to learn anything of their history. Beyond -the fact that they belong to Spain, a piece of -information probably surviving from their school-room -days, they have never troubled their heads -about them, and I have known a look of surprise -come over the face of an Englishwoman on hearing -a Spaniard mention a fact which probably dated -“from before the Conquest, quite five centuries -ago,” entirely forgetting that “the Conquest” -could mean anything but the English conquest, -instead of the conquest of the Canary Islands by -the Spaniards at the latter end of the fifteenth -century.</p> - -<p>Possibly the reason that so few authentic records<span class="pagenum" id="Page_161">[161]</span> -remain of their ancient history is that though the -outlying islands of the group are only some 80 or -100 miles from the African coast, still they were on -the extreme limit of the ancient world. The -various theories that they were really the home -of the Hesperides, or the garden of Atlas, King of -Mauretania, where the golden apple was guarded -by the dragon, the Peak being the Mount Atlas -of mythology, or again that they were merely -the remains of the sunken continent of Atlantis, -can never really be settled, but it seems almost -certain that they were not entirely unknown to -the ancients. The fact that Homer mentions an -island “beyond the Pillars of Hercules,” as the -Straits of Gibraltar were called, has caused the -adoption of the Pillars of Hercules, with a small -island in the distance surmounted with <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">Oce ano</i>, -as one of the coats-of-arms of the Islands, though -the more correct one appears to be the two large -dogs (because of the two native dogs which were -taken back to King Juba about 50 <span class="allsmcap">B.C.</span>, when -he sent ships from Mauretania to inspect Canaria) -supporting a shield on which is depicted the seven -islands. Herodotus in his description of the -countries beyond Libya says that, “the world ends<span class="pagenum" id="Page_162">[162]</span> -where the sea is no longer navigable, in that place -where are the gardens of the Hesperides, where -Atlas supports the sky on a mountain as conical as -a cylinder.” Hesiod says that “Jupiter sent dead -heroes to the end of the world, to the Fortunate -Islands, which are in the middle of the ocean.” -There is no doubt that the Romans, on re-discovering -the Islands, christened them <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">Insulæ -Fortunatæ</i>, which name has clung to them ever -since.</p> - -<p>Pliny, in writing about the islands, quotes the -statements of Juba, who said the islands were placed -at the extreme limit of the world, and were perpetually -clothed with fire.</p> - -<p>It is unfortunate that the Spaniards, when they -conquered the islands, took no trouble to preserve -any of their ancient records, and as the natives -could not write, any history which might have been -handed down from generation to generation was -entirely lost. For this reason very little is known -for certain as to what happened to the islands in the -Middle Ages, though they appear to be mentioned -by an Arabian geographer in the early part of the -twelfth century, who writes of “the island of the -two magician brothers, Cheram and Clerham, from<span class="pagenum" id="Page_163">[163]</span> -which, in clear weather, smoke could be seen issuing -from the African coast.” Various European -countries, having heard tales of islands beyond the -seas, appear to have made efforts to conquer them. -The fate of the Genoese expedition in <span class="allsmcap">A.D.</span> 1291 is -not known, and though the French are said to have -“discovered” them in 1330, it was the Portuguese -who took advantage of this discovery, and a few -years later sent an expedition to conquer them. -They met with no success, and were repulsed by -the inhabitants of Gomera, and though they made -yet another attempt after a few years, it appears to -have been without result.</p> - -<p>No doubt the comparative peace which reigned -in the islands for so long was owing to the fact that -Europe was too much occupied with civil wars and -crusades, to explore and conquer far-off lands, but -during the fourteenth century a French nobleman of -Spanish extraction was made “King of the Fortunate -Islands” by the Pope, and told to Christianise -them in the best way he could. Nothing much seems -to have come of these instructions, though some -missionaries were no doubt sent to Grand Canary.</p> - -<p>The conquest of the islands seems to have -occupied the Spaniards for nearly a century, as in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_164">[164]</span> -1402 we read of Jean de Bethencourt (a name still -common in the islands), who fitted out a ship for -the purpose of conquering them and settling there. -Lanzarote was peaceably occupied, as its fighting -population was small, but in the neighbouring island -of Fuerteventura he was repulsed. Henry King of -Castille provided reinforcements, and, on condition -that the Archipelago should be annexed in his name, -Bethencourt was to be made “Lord of the Isles” of -four of the group. The four smaller islands were -soon brought under subjection—Fuerteventura, -Lanzarote, Gomera, and Hierro; in fact, in some -of the islands the newcomers were welcomed. The -three larger islands—Canary, Teneriffe, and La -Palma—proved a more serious undertaking, and -the invaders being stoutly resisted and lacking in -forces, their conquest was for a time abandoned, -and Bethencourt did not live to see them subjugated. -His nephew sold his rights to the Portuguese, -which complicated matters. It was not -until 1464 that any determined attack was again -made, though Spanish troops had made an unsuccessful -attempt to conquer La Palma some ten -years previously.</p> - -<p>The Lord of Gomera, Diego de Herrera, made<span class="pagenum" id="Page_165">[165]</span> -most determined attacks in 1464, beginning unsuccessfully -in Canary; but in the same year he again -collected his forces and attacked Teneriffe, landing -at Santa Cruz. Don Diego, having been driven -into a corner by the Canarios, sent his son-in-law, -Diego da Silva, to make a counter-attack. He -fared no better, and escape being cut off, offered to -surrender, but quarter was denied. By a stratagem -a Canario leader was seized as a hostage, and Silva -demanded free passage to his ship, which was -granted. Silva had misgivings as to the sincerity -of the Canarios, and apparently was so glad to escape -with his life, that when he arrived at his ship he -and all his men voluntarily gave up their arms, and -vowed never again to fight the Canarios—a vow -which Silva, at any rate, kept, in spite of the -indignation of Diego. Some of the men broke -their promise, and joined Diego’s attacking forces -again; and on being taken prisoners by the natives, -instead of being put to death were condemned to -spend their lives in brushing away flies, as execution -was too high an honour for such base creatures.</p> - -<p>Some years after, the “fly-flappers” were set at -liberty, as Diego succeeded in making a treaty -with the Canarios; but the island was far from<span class="pagenum" id="Page_166">[166]</span> -being conquered, and still offered stout resistance, -though the Spaniards seem by now to have determined -not to let such a prize escape them. Reinforcements -came from Spain, and a small body of -cavalry, we are told, terrorised the natives, and -though the Portuguese interfered on behalf of the -Canarios, the Spaniards now got a footing in the -island in the year 1478, during the reign of -Ferdinand <abbr title="the fifth">V</abbr>. of Castille.</p> - -<p>After many unsuccessful attacks from the other -islands, it fell to the lot of Don Alonso de Lugo -to complete the work of Jean de Bethencourt. -“De Lugo el Conquistador, and afterwards -Governor of the Province of the Canaries, was a -Galician nobleman, who had served with distinction -against the Moors in the conquest of Granada, -and had been presented with the valley of Ageste -(Canary) in return for his services. Whilst there -he conceived the capture of Teneriffe and of La -Palma, reconnoitring their coasts and acquainting -himself with their geographical features.”</p> - -<p>Helped by the inhabitants of Gomera, who by -this time had become accustomed to the rule -of the conquerors, De Lugo made a desperate -though unsuccessful attempt in 1491 to conquer<span class="pagenum" id="Page_167">[167]</span> -La Palma, which had remained in comparative -peace for over half a century. It was not till -1492, after months of desperate fighting, that he -succeeded in subduing the island and adding it as -a prize to the dominions of Spain.</p> - -<p>A year later he turned his attention to Teneriffe -and landed at Añaza (Santa Cruz). He hoped that -quarrels among the Guanches might be in his -favour, but after a considerable number of his -men had been cut to pieces at Matanza (Place of -Slaughter) he was forced to retire, and after a -year’s fighting evacuated the island, until reinforcements -were sent to him. Before the close -of the same year he returned to the attack, and -desperate resistance was met with in the district -of La Laguna. The Guanches, though successful -in keeping the invaders at bay, were much discouraged -by losing several of their leaders, and -began to quarrel among themselves; how long -they might still have held out it is impossible to -know, but Providence seems at this moment to -have come to the help of the Spaniards.</p> - -<p>The disease known as <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">Modorra</i>, possibly some -form of typhus fever, broke out among the Guanches. -Old writings describe this disease as being most<span class="pagenum" id="Page_168">[168]</span> -malignant and mysterious, and its effects among -the natives were appalling. The Spaniards remained -immune, but I should think it was not -without qualms that they watched the ghastly -destruction of their foes, who appear to have been -seized with hopeless melancholia, lost all wish to -live, and wandered about listlessly in troops or laid -down in caves to die. One writer says: “Even at -the present day such retreats are occasionally discovered, -little heaps of bones or seated skeletons -marking the spot where the despairing victims sank -to rise no more. It is said that some Spaniards, -reconnoitring on the road to La Laguna, met an -old woman seated alone on the Montaña de Taco, -who waved them on, bidding them go in and -occupy that charnel-house where none were left -to offer opposition.”</p> - -<p>De Lugo seems to have passed through the -district of the <i lang="es" xml:lang="es">modorra</i>, but met with resistance -in the valley of Orotava, where the Mencey of -Taoro (the old name of Villa Orotava) advanced to -meet him with a considerable force. Another -sanguinary engagement took place at La Victoria -and the invaders again had to retreat. The -<i lang="es" xml:lang="es">modorra</i> still raged, and in 1496 the site of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_169">[169]</span> -present villages of Realejo Alto and Bajo, in the -valley of Orotava, was the scene of the final -capitulation of the Guanches, worn out by illness -and perpetual fighting.</p> - -<p>It is not altogether surprising that other -countries looked rather longingly at Spain’s new -possession, and both their Portuguese neighbours -and the Moors made one or two feeble attempts to -claim them.</p> - -<p>England was not above making several attacks -on the Islands. One unsuccessful expedition -commanded by Sir Francis Drake was repulsed at -Las Palmas in 1595, and about sixty years later Sir -Robert Blake, in command of 36 vessels, attacked -Santa Cruz, in Teneriffe, but beyond destroying -forts, the shipping in the harbour, and sinking -some treasure galleons, he does not seem to have -done much. The English again disturbed the -peace of the islanders in 1743, but Admiral -Nelson’s attack of Santa Cruz in 1797 is the one -which is of principal interest to the English, from -the fact probably that it was Nelson’s one defeat, -and here also he lost his arm. To this day -Nelson’s two flags are carefully preserved in glass -cases on the walls of the Iglesia de la Concepcion<span class="pagenum" id="Page_170">[170]</span> -and are an object of great interest to many English -travellers. The news that a galleon laden with -treasure had arrived in Santa Cruz reached -Admiral Jervis during the blockade of Cadiz, and -he at once ordered Vice-Admiral Nelson, in -command of 1500 men and 393 guns, to proceed -to Teneriffe to secure the coveted prize. The -Spanish authorities were formally demanded to -deliver up the treasure on July 20, 1797, and -not unnaturally refused. The town seems to have -been strongly garrisoned, and Nelson, hampered by -an unfavourable wind, made unavailing attempts to -land and draw the soldiers from their forts. Under -cover of darkness 700 men succeeded in getting -close to the mole before the enemy discovered -them, but soon a deadly fire was opened upon -them, and several of the boats were sunk. Nelson -had no sooner set foot on the jetty than his arm -was shattered by a cannon ball. Incapacitated -though he was by pain and loss of blood, directly -he got back alongside his ship his first thought was -for the men who had been left behind, and orders -were at once given for the boat to go back to their -assistance. The men who had succeeded in landing -on the mole, encouraged by repulsing the enemy<span class="pagenum" id="Page_171">[171]</span> -and spiking their guns, made a desperate attempt -to attack the town. Their opponents were too -numerous for this brave little band, and the guns -from the Fort of San Christobal killed the greater -number of their officers and wounded the rest; the -survivors retreated in good order after holding their -position on the mole nearly all night. In consequence -of the darkness a party under Captain -Trowbridge became separated and eventually landed -at the other side of the town, and took possession -of the old Dominican Monastery. Taking it for -granted that Nelson’s party were in possession of -the mole, and advancing to meet them, Trowbridge -demanded the surrender of the fort, only to find -that his enemy and not his friends were the victors. -Eventually, seeing that success was impossible, he -asked for permission to leave the town with all -arms, and promised not to attack any part of the -Canaries, or in the event of these conditions being -refused he threatened to burn and sack the town. -It is well known in history how courteously (once -the evacuation terms were agreed to) the Spaniards -treated their foe. The wounded were carefully -tended, the invaders were allowed to buy provisions, -and presents were interchanged between the greatest<span class="pagenum" id="Page_172">[172]</span> -of England’s Admirals and Don Antonio Gutierrez, -the Comandante-General of the Canaries, and it is -said that the first letter Nelson wrote with his left -hand was to thank the Spanish general for his care -of his wounded men. After Nelson’s attack the -Canaries appear to have remained in the undisputed -possession of Spain, and were made a province of -the Mother Country, Santa Cruz, Teneriffe, being -made the capital and seat of government, somewhat -to the annoyance of the other islands. Those who -are really interested in the history of the conquest -of the Islands will find that there are many histories -written in Spanish, most of which are to be seen -in the great public library at La Laguna.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_212a.jpg" alt="" width="650" height="25" /> -</div> - -<div class="advert-container"> -<h3 class="nobreak" id="FLOWERS_AND_GARDENS_OF">FLOWERS AND GARDENS OF -MADEIRA</h3> - - -<p><em>By</em> FLORENCE DU CANE</p> - -<p>Containing 16 full-page illustrations in colour -by <span class="smcap">Ella Du Cane</span></p> - -<p>Price 6/-net</p> - -<p>(<em>By post</em>, 6/6)</p> - -<p><em>The Garden</em> (on first edition).—“A charming book.... -The coloured illustrations are not only instructive, but -gems of their kind.... Should be in every library.”</p> - - -<p>GARDENS OF SOUTH AFRICA</p> - -<p><em>By</em> DOROTHEA FAIRBRIDGE</p> - -<p>Containing 16 full-page illustrations in colour -by <span class="smcap">Elizabeth Drake</span> and others.</p> - -<p>Price 10/6 net</p> - -<p>(<em>By post</em>, 11/-)</p> - -<p><cite>Daily Mail.</cite>—“To pick up this book—with its singularly -beautiful pictures in colour—on a drear day of English -Autumn is to be vouchsafed a glimpse into a glowing -Horticultural Paradise.”</p> - - -<p>A FEW FLOWERS OF THE -ITALIAN RIVIERA</p> - -<p><em>By</em> HILDA G. DAY</p> - -<p>With 16 full-page illustrations in colour by -the author.</p> - -<p>Price 2/6 net</p> - -<p>(<em>By post</em>, 2/9)</p> - - -<p>Published by</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">A. & C. Black, Ltd.</span>, 4, 5 & 6 Soho Square, London, W.1</p> - </div> -</div> - -<p class="space-above4"></p> - -<div class="advert-container"> -<h3 class="nobreak" id="HIGHWAY_AND_HEDGES">HIGHWAY AND HEDGES</h3> - -<p><em>By</em> HERBERT A. MORRAH</p> - -<p>New Edition, with 16 full-page illustrations -in colour by <span class="smcap">B. Benger</span></p> - -<p><span class="allsmcap">PRICE</span> 3/6 <span class="allsmcap">NET</span> (<em>by post</em>, 3/10)</p> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p><cite>Daily Telegraph.</cite>—“Mr. Berenger Benger has selected -delightful ‘bits’ for his brush, and has presented them -in a manner that makes us wish again to take to the open -road and the footpath way.... A pleasant addition -to our open-air literature.”</p> -</div> - - -<p>THE CALL OF THE OPEN</p> - -<p><cite>A Nature Anthology</cite></p> - -<p><em>Edited by</em> L. H. STOWELL</p> - -<p>With 16 full-page illustrations in colour and -decorative end-papers.</p> - -<p><span class="allsmcap">PRICE</span> 3/6 <span class="allsmcap">NET</span> (<em>by post</em>, 3/10)</p> - -<p>In Imitation Leather, 6/-net (<em>by post</em>, 6/11)</p> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>“The Call of the Open” is an anthology of poems -about the open air, the countryside, the seasons, the sea -and shore, from the works of more than a hundred -poets, from Milton and Herrick to Masefield and -Drinkwater.</p> -</div> - - -<p>FLOWERS IN THE HOME</p> - -<p><em>By</em> MENIE WATT</p> - -<p>With 8 full-page illustrations from photographs.</p> - -<p><span class="allsmcap">PRICE</span> 2/6 <span class="allsmcap">NET</span> (<em>by post</em>, 2/10)</p> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p><cite>The Times.</cite>—“A useful and charming little book on the -choice and arrangement of flowers for the room and -table.”</p> -</div> - - -<p>GARDENS IN THEIR SEASONS</p> - -<p><cite>A Nature Book for Young People</cite></p> - -<p><em>By</em> C. VON WYSS</p> - -<p>Containing 32 illustrations in colour and 32 in -black and white.</p> - -<p><span class="allsmcap">PRICE</span> 2/6 <span class="allsmcap">NET</span> (<em>by post</em>, 2/11)</p> - - -<p> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Published by</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;"><span class="smcap">A. & C. Black, Ltd.,</span> 4, 5 & 6 Soho Square, London, W.1.</span><br /> -</p> -</div> - -<p class="space-above4"></p> - -<div class="advert-container"> -<h3 class="nobreak" id="SOME_OTHER_BEAUTIFUL_BOOKS_ON_FLOWERS_AND_GARDENS"><em>SOME OTHER BEAUTIFUL BOOKS ON FLOWERS AND GARDENS</em></h3> - -<p>GARDENS OF ENGLAND</p> - -<p><em>By</em> E. T. COOK</p> - -<p><em>Edited by</em> E. T. ELLIS, F.R.H.S.</p> - -<p>New Edition, containing 16 full-page illustrations -in colour by <span class="smcap">Beatrice Parsons</span></p> - -<p>Price 6/-net</p> - -<p>(<em>By post</em>, 6/6)</p> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p><em>Country Life.</em>—“... Highly deserving of a -place in the country house.... It is instinct -with the spirit of the garden, and no one could -turn its leaves, or look at the pictures, without -obtaining many a hint that could be put to -practical purpose.”</p> -</div> - - -<p>THE GLORY OF THE -GARDEN</p> - -<p><em>By</em></p> - -<p>M. E. KENNEDY-BELL, F.R.H.S.</p> - -<p>With frontispiece in colour and attractive -picture jacket.</p> - -<p>Price 2/6 net</p> - -<p>(<em>By post</em>, 2/10)</p> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p><cite>The Scottish Field.</cite>—“It will be read with -delight by all true garden lovers.... The book -is full of delightful verse and attractively written -prose dealing with gardens and gardening.”</p> -</div> - -<p> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Published by</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;"><span class="smcap">A. & C. Black, Ltd.,</span> 4, 5 & 6 Soho Square, London, W.1.</span> -</p> - -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_212b.jpg" alt="" width="650" height="20" /> -</div> - -<p class="space-above4"></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="i_map"><img src="images/i_map.jpg" alt="" width="650" height="393" /></a> -<div class="center">SKETCH MAP OF THE CANARY ISLANDS<br /> -<div class="center">A. & C. Black, London, 1911</div> -Click <a href="images/i_map_large.jpg">here</a> for larger map</div> -</div> -<div style='display:block; margin-top:4em'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CANARY ISLANDS ***</div> -<div style='text-align:left'> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Updated editions will replace the previous one—the old editions will -be renamed. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part -of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project -Gutenberg™ electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG™ -concept and trademark. Project Gutenberg is a registered trademark, -and may not be used if you charge for an eBook, except by following -the terms of the trademark license, including paying royalties for use -of the Project Gutenberg trademark. If you do not charge anything for -copies of this eBook, complying with the trademark license is very -easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose such as creation -of derivative works, reports, performances and research. Project -Gutenberg eBooks may be modified and printed and given away--you may -do practically ANYTHING in the United States with eBooks not protected -by U.S. copyright law. Redistribution is subject to the trademark -license, especially commercial redistribution. -</div> - -<div style='margin:0.83em 0; font-size:1.1em; text-align:center'>START: FULL LICENSE<br /> -<span style='font-size:smaller'>THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE<br /> -PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK</span> -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -To protect the Project Gutenberg™ mission of promoting the free -distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work -(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase “Project -Gutenberg”), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full -Project Gutenberg™ License available with this file or online at -www.gutenberg.org/license. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; font-size:1.1em; margin:1em 0; font-weight:bold'> -Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg™ electronic works -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg™ -electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to -and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property -(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all -the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or -destroy all copies of Project Gutenberg™ electronic works in your -possession. If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a -Project Gutenberg™ electronic work and you do not agree to be bound -by the terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person -or entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -1.B. “Project Gutenberg” is a registered trademark. It may only be -used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who -agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few -things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg™ electronic works -even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See -paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project -Gutenberg™ electronic works if you follow the terms of this -agreement and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg™ -electronic works. See paragraph 1.E below. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation (“the -Foundation” or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection -of Project Gutenberg™ electronic works. Nearly all the individual -works in the collection are in the public domain in the United -States. If an individual work is unprotected by copyright law in the -United States and you are located in the United States, we do not -claim a right to prevent you from copying, distributing, performing, -displaying or creating derivative works based on the work as long as -all references to Project Gutenberg are removed. Of course, we hope -that you will support the Project Gutenberg™ mission of promoting -free access to electronic works by freely sharing Project Gutenberg™ -works in compliance with the terms of this agreement for keeping the -Project Gutenberg™ name associated with the work. You can easily -comply with the terms of this agreement by keeping this work in the -same format with its attached full Project Gutenberg™ License when -you share it without charge with others. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern -what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are -in a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, -check the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this -agreement before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, -distributing or creating derivative works based on this work or any -other Project Gutenberg™ work. The Foundation makes no -representations concerning the copyright status of any work in any -country other than the United States. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other -immediate access to, the full Project Gutenberg™ License must appear -prominently whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg™ work (any work -on which the phrase “Project Gutenberg” appears, or with which the -phrase “Project Gutenberg” is associated) is accessed, displayed, -performed, viewed, copied or distributed: -</div> - -<blockquote> - <div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> - This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most - other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions - whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms - of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online - at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you - are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws - of the country where you are located before using this eBook. - </div> -</blockquote> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg™ electronic work is -derived from texts not protected by U.S. copyright law (does not -contain a notice indicating that it is posted with permission of the -copyright holder), the work can be copied and distributed to anyone in -the United States without paying any fees or charges. If you are -redistributing or providing access to a work with the phrase “Project -Gutenberg” associated with or appearing on the work, you must comply -either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 or -obtain permission for the use of the work and the Project Gutenberg™ -trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg™ electronic work is posted -with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution -must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any -additional terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms -will be linked to the Project Gutenberg™ License for all works -posted with the permission of the copyright holder found at the -beginning of this work. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg™ -License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this -work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg™. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this -electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without -prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with -active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project -Gutenberg™ License. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, -compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including -any word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access -to or distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg™ work in a format -other than “Plain Vanilla ASCII” or other format used in the official -version posted on the official Project Gutenberg™ website -(www.gutenberg.org), you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense -to the user, provide a copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means -of obtaining a copy upon request, of the work in its original “Plain -Vanilla ASCII” or other form. Any alternate format must include the -full Project Gutenberg™ License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, -performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg™ works -unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing -access to or distributing Project Gutenberg™ electronic works -provided that: -</div> - -<div style='margin-left:0.7em;'> - <div style='text-indent:-0.7em'> - • You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from - the use of Project Gutenberg™ works calculated using the method - you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is owed - to the owner of the Project Gutenberg™ trademark, but he has - agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the Project - Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments must be paid - within 60 days following each date on which you prepare (or are - legally required to prepare) your periodic tax returns. Royalty - payments should be clearly marked as such and sent to the Project - Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the address specified in - Section 4, “Information about donations to the Project Gutenberg - Literary Archive Foundation.” - </div> - - <div style='text-indent:-0.7em'> - • You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies - you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he - does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg™ - License. You must require such a user to return or destroy all - copies of the works possessed in a physical medium and discontinue - all use of and all access to other copies of Project Gutenberg™ - works. - </div> - - <div style='text-indent:-0.7em'> - • You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of - any money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the - electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days of - receipt of the work. - </div> - - <div style='text-indent:-0.7em'> - • You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free - distribution of Project Gutenberg™ works. - </div> -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project -Gutenberg™ electronic work or group of works on different terms than -are set forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing -from the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the manager of -the Project Gutenberg™ trademark. Contact the Foundation as set -forth in Section 3 below. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -1.F. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable -effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread -works not protected by U.S. copyright law in creating the Project -Gutenberg™ collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg™ -electronic works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may -contain “Defects,” such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate -or corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other -intellectual property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or -other medium, a computer virus, or computer codes that damage or -cannot be read by your equipment. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the “Right -of Replacement or Refund” described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project -Gutenberg™ trademark, and any other party distributing a Project -Gutenberg™ electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all -liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal -fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT -LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE -PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE -TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE -LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR -INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH -DAMAGE. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a -defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can -receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a -written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you -received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium -with your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you -with the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in -lieu of a refund. If you received the work electronically, the person -or entity providing it to you may choose to give you a second -opportunity to receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If -the second copy is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing -without further opportunities to fix the problem. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth -in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you ‘AS-IS’, WITH NO -OTHER WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT -LIMITED TO WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied -warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of -damages. If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement -violates the law of the state applicable to this agreement, the -agreement shall be interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or -limitation permitted by the applicable state law. The invalidity or -unenforceability of any provision of this agreement shall not void the -remaining provisions. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the -trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone -providing copies of Project Gutenberg™ electronic works in -accordance with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the -production, promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg™ -electronic works, harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, -including legal fees, that arise directly or indirectly from any of -the following which you do or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this -or any Project Gutenberg™ work, (b) alteration, modification, or -additions or deletions to any Project Gutenberg™ work, and (c) any -Defect you cause. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; font-size:1.1em; margin:1em 0; font-weight:bold'> -Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg™ -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Project Gutenberg™ is synonymous with the free distribution of -electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of -computers including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It -exists because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations -from people in all walks of life. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the -assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg™’s -goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg™ collection will -remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure -and permanent future for Project Gutenberg™ and future -generations. To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation and how your efforts and donations can help, see -Sections 3 and 4 and the Foundation information page at www.gutenberg.org. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; font-size:1.1em; margin:1em 0; font-weight:bold'> -Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non-profit -501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the -state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal -Revenue Service. The Foundation’s EIN or federal tax identification -number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent permitted by -U.S. federal laws and your state’s laws. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -The Foundation’s business office is located at 809 North 1500 West, -Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887. Email contact links and up -to date contact information can be found at the Foundation’s website -and official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact -</div> - -<div style='display:block; font-size:1.1em; margin:1em 0; font-weight:bold'> -Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Project Gutenberg™ depends upon and cannot survive without widespread -public support and donations to carry out its mission of -increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be -freely distributed in machine-readable form accessible by the widest -array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations -($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt -status with the IRS. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating -charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United -States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a -considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up -with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations -where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To SEND -DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any particular state -visit <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/donate/">www.gutenberg.org/donate</a>. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we -have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition -against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who -approach us with offers to donate. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make -any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from -outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Please check the Project Gutenberg web pages for current donation -methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other -ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. To -donate, please visit: www.gutenberg.org/donate -</div> - -<div style='display:block; font-size:1.1em; margin:1em 0; font-weight:bold'> -Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg™ electronic works -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project -Gutenberg™ concept of a library of electronic works that could be -freely shared with anyone. For forty years, he produced and -distributed Project Gutenberg™ eBooks with only a loose network of -volunteer support. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Project Gutenberg™ eBooks are often created from several printed -editions, all of which are confirmed as not protected by copyright in -the U.S. unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not -necessarily keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper -edition. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Most people start at our website which has the main PG search -facility: <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -This website includes information about Project Gutenberg™, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. -</div> - -</div> -</body> -</html> diff --git a/old/66355-h/images/i_024.jpg b/old/66355-h/images/i_024.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 8eb6f6f..0000000 --- a/old/66355-h/images/i_024.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/66355-h/images/i_031.jpg b/old/66355-h/images/i_031.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 0d9fe85..0000000 --- a/old/66355-h/images/i_031.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/66355-h/images/i_040.jpg b/old/66355-h/images/i_040.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 8f11a22..0000000 --- a/old/66355-h/images/i_040.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/66355-h/images/i_063.jpg b/old/66355-h/images/i_063.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index e4d7d72..0000000 --- a/old/66355-h/images/i_063.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/66355-h/images/i_080.jpg b/old/66355-h/images/i_080.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 0b61d59..0000000 --- a/old/66355-h/images/i_080.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/66355-h/images/i_087.jpg b/old/66355-h/images/i_087.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 04ecd84..0000000 --- a/old/66355-h/images/i_087.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/66355-h/images/i_096.jpg b/old/66355-h/images/i_096.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index f464cc3..0000000 --- a/old/66355-h/images/i_096.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/66355-h/images/i_103.jpg b/old/66355-h/images/i_103.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 8b84416..0000000 --- a/old/66355-h/images/i_103.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/66355-h/images/i_120.jpg b/old/66355-h/images/i_120.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 320c49d..0000000 --- a/old/66355-h/images/i_120.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/66355-h/images/i_139.jpg b/old/66355-h/images/i_139.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 2128ed7..0000000 --- a/old/66355-h/images/i_139.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/66355-h/images/i_145.jpg b/old/66355-h/images/i_145.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 14b47dc..0000000 --- a/old/66355-h/images/i_145.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/66355-h/images/i_154.jpg b/old/66355-h/images/i_154.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index e04943d..0000000 --- a/old/66355-h/images/i_154.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/66355-h/images/i_160.jpg b/old/66355-h/images/i_160.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 9adb1bd..0000000 --- a/old/66355-h/images/i_160.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/66355-h/images/i_183.jpg b/old/66355-h/images/i_183.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 5cf8c01..0000000 --- a/old/66355-h/images/i_183.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/66355-h/images/i_192.jpg b/old/66355-h/images/i_192.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index f4875e5..0000000 --- a/old/66355-h/images/i_192.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/66355-h/images/i_212a.jpg b/old/66355-h/images/i_212a.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index d628030..0000000 --- a/old/66355-h/images/i_212a.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/66355-h/images/i_212b.jpg b/old/66355-h/images/i_212b.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index c686d4a..0000000 --- a/old/66355-h/images/i_212b.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/66355-h/images/i_cover.jpg b/old/66355-h/images/i_cover.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index a0c6ac4..0000000 --- a/old/66355-h/images/i_cover.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/66355-h/images/i_frontis.jpg b/old/66355-h/images/i_frontis.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 6fd5806..0000000 --- a/old/66355-h/images/i_frontis.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/66355-h/images/i_map.jpg b/old/66355-h/images/i_map.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index a6c8e6c..0000000 --- a/old/66355-h/images/i_map.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/66355-h/images/i_map_large.jpg b/old/66355-h/images/i_map_large.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index cf520ec..0000000 --- a/old/66355-h/images/i_map_large.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/66355-h/images/i_title.jpg b/old/66355-h/images/i_title.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 712dbf4..0000000 --- a/old/66355-h/images/i_title.jpg +++ /dev/null |
